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CONTAINING

A SHORT HISTORY OF FRUITS AND THEIR VALUE — IN-
STRUCTIONS AS TO SOILS AND LOCATIONS—HOW sue)
GROW FROM SEEDS—HOW TO BUD AND GRAFT—
THE MAKING OF-CUTTINGS—PRUNING—BEST
AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING, } A Cad od AO

WITH A

CONDENSED LIST OF VARIETIES SUITED TO CLIMATE.

(ILLUSTRATED.)

Made for Those Who Grow Fruit for Their Own Use.

Ww"
% BY hy RY¥EREIOUT,

| AUTHOR OF “‘ WESTERN FRUIT GROWERS’ GUIDE.’

ROCHESTER, N. Y.: Nasiny 4
D. M. DEWEY, PUBLISHER, ARCADE.
1876.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876,
| By D. M. DEWEY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

Paes C. H. STUMP & CO.,
Printers,
Reynolds’ Arcade, Rochester.

PREPACE.

The preparation of the pages in this work have been in-
stigated by a long time attention to the wants of those

who yearly plant out fruit trees, vines and plants.

Visiting our yearly gatherings of men throughout the
country at the local, county and state agricultural and
horticultural societies’ meetings, together with the fact
that not an editor of a journal, more or less devoted to
the improvement of rural life, and as aid thereto, gives
items touching of fruit, etc., but is almost daily in re-
ceipt of questions touching the ‘‘ How and when to
plant ?’’ ‘‘ What varieties to use?’’ has brought us to write
as plainly and practically as possible, and within a scale
that may be sold at a price to meet the pocket of every
man who desires to plant trees or vines in his ground, look-
ing forward to their producing him valuable fruit, to min-

ister as food toward health and longevity of life.

The works of Downinc, THOmMAs, Barry and others,

while embracing the whole matter, yet require an outlay

iv PREFACE.

of money, which we hope the reader of our pages herein
will find equally to his interest, and at a small pecuniary

cost.

To those who can afford to buy the three to five dollar
book, we say, do so; but the work we now present you
may be placed in the hand of any novice connected with
tree planting, and enable him to plant and trim a tree or
vine in such manner that it will prove a success.

HISTORY AND VALUE OF FRUITS.

With the limited space given us by the publisher, we can
but draw a few words touching the first of fruits, and the
progress thereof to the present day.

As we read outside of the Bible, we find that more
than 6,000 years ago the grape, apple, pear, peach, apri-
cot and plum were grown. Even then the art of grafting
was known, but the world had not then its many millions,
as now, nor was a legitimate knowledge of reading and
writing, among the masses of the people, then prevalent
as at this time.

From the first of our biblical teaching, we learn that
the apple was a feature connected with humanity; and so
in every section of country and climate we find fruits,
natural to the clime, are part and parcel of the food of
the people.

When the first settlers of this country landed—say in
1500—they brought with them seeds of the apple, pear,
etc., and many cuttings of vines and flowering plants,
which they hoped could be grown in the land of their
adoption. Fortunately, at that time, the forest was such
as to break the storms, and leaves were so abundant, that
they could protect the young plants, which soon took
root in the rich, natural, vegetable loam.

6 HISTORY AND VALUE OF FRUITS.

Soon Virginia and other southern localities of this
country were settled, and the growths of their clime came
almost super-natural, to the supply of food for mankind.
Little by little transportation and communication came
between the north and south of what is now the United
States of America, and with it has progressed every spe-
cies and variety of fruit and its culture.

We have had, during the past century, many enthu-
silastic workers in the fruit and flower line,—those who
faithfully believed in advocating to those about to plant,
a careful study and knowledge from practical men in the
growth of tree and fruit.

Our limits, taking in what we want to write bracticalt® ;
of how to grow, etc., will not permit us to enumerate by
name the many men who have labored in the act practi-
cally, and writing mentally toward the advance of fruit
culture. Suffice it to say, that not a state north, east,
south or west but has one or more names long to be
remembered by every man woman or child who resides
outside of the dingy, narrow streets and dirty alleys and
air of a city.

>’

‘* God made the country—man made the town ;’’ please
take this old truth daily before you in thought, to a perfect
digestion,

Ere I leave this chapter I must quote from one of the
men who knew, believed in, and worked up his subject.
Doctor J. A. Kennicort, of Illinois, wrote as follows:

‘“The free use of ripe fruits not only prevents disease,
but their regulated enjoyment helps to remove that which

already exists. All 7z#e fruits are also more or less nutri-

SOILS AND LOCATIONS. 7.

tious. It has been clearly demonstrated that the apple
is superior to the potato in the principles that go to in-
crease the muscle and drain of man; and in fattening
properties it is nearly equal to any other food. Ripe
grapes have cured epidemic dysentery. Families, where
fruits aré most plentiful, and rv7zpened good, are most free
from disease of all kinds, especially from fevers and bowel
complaints. Most fruits aid digestion; some directly and
some indirectly, and their free use lessens the desire for
alcohol or other stimulents. The juicy ones act as dilu-
ents, and all as diuretics, the free acids neutralizing the

earthy matters in the blood.”’

SOILS AND LOCATIONS BEST ADAPTED.

The above heading, in the growing of fruits, has many
and multiple of views by those who have given their record
in the meetings of agricultural and pomological societies.
The whole, however, rests in the fact that the tree must
have its roots where there is an under current of moist-
ure, that can be taken up bythe tap or lower roots, in
times of dry atmosphere and lack of moisture upon the
surface. Again, the tree must not be situate in a low val-
ley, or confined -air space, without an underground drain-
age, for here the cold is increased, and added to the
moisture of the valley, is often five to seven or ten de-
grees of Fahrenheit below that of the high ground adjoin-

8 SOILS AND LOCATIONS.

ing. The apple called Grimes’ Golden, or Grimes’ Golden
Pippin, originated upon a high, well drained, limestone
point, and is recorded for years of bearing a fine, high
flavored fruit. To-day it has no favor on average soils
and locations as a general fruit crop, and has only a single
star, each of three states, in the American Pomological

Society’s transactions, 1873.

Some of the most valuable orchards known stand on
elevated situations, with what is generally termed a thin,
light, loamy soil, resting upon a basis of rock. In such
positions the trees do not grow as rapidly as in deeper
and richer soils, but they become fruitful sooner, and
continue a long and productive life.

Thorough drainage in all cases is essential to healthy
growth of tree and productiveness. Aspect is also a
material circumstance, and should be modified by the
climate and variety of fruit to. be grown. <A _ peach orch-
ard will bear warmth better than one of the hardy, firm,
wooded varieties of apples, pears and plums. It is well
for the planter to study the position whereon he intends
to plant, and ere deciding upon positions for certain trees,
look over the surrounding country, and note the success
or failure of others who have gone before him in the
work. According as this is adapted to the growth of the
variety planted, will be his success._ It is not policy to
stimulate trees into growing luxuriently, by means of
manures; a-healthy, steady, yearly growth, ripening the

wood perfectly, forms the most permanent orchard.

- HOW TO GROW FROM SEED.

THE SAVING OF SEEDS—FROM WHAT THEY SHOULD
BE TAKEN.

It is a mooted point, even in this intelligent age, as
to whether certain improvements in the varieties of fruits
can be had by taking the seed of some one really good
variety, that is surrounded by or near to other equally
good varieties, and from their natural impregnations
come, or whether artificial impregnation of one. variety
upon another of distinct character, termed Ayéridizing, 1s
the best. The former, certainly, so far, has given the
most valuable results, but the process is one slower than
the latter, by which results can be shown in about one-half
the time. As we are now not writing a scientific treatise,
but trying to make plain, practical matter, by which he
who reads can practice; and as we know that the arti-
ficial impregnation of one flower upon another of a dis-
tinct class is attended with a knowledge of time to study
and practice, we shall advise the growing from seed taken
carefully from some healthy, hardy tree, producing the
best of fruit, and which is surrounded by others of a
different yet good character. Ninety times out of a hun-
dred the seeds so gathered and sown have produced the

most successful results.

o ++

LO HOW TO GROW FROM SEED.

We have read much of what has been done, but in all
cases we cannot speak confidently; but to-day believe our
best apples, pears, etc., have come from seeds void of
man’s aid in their impregnation. We do know that Prof.
JARED POTTER KIRTLAND, of Cleveland, Ohio, by taking
seeds of the cherry from one tree that was near to others
of different varieties, has produced varieties that to-day
rank as first class, not only in this country but in Eng-
land and France. Although we shall again name these
in our list of varieties to plant, let us name here of the
Kirtland cherries, @he’ °° Black Hawk,’ ‘* Brant,”* “* Deh=
cate, ** Ohio Beauty,’ “Cleveland,” *“ Rockport, and
‘“ Pontiac.’’ This same amateur grower has produced
of the Tree Peony, varieties of greater beauty than any
we have received from abroad.

Having now said from what seeds varieties of fruits
should be grown, or the stocks used to graft or bud upon,
leaving the two or three lower limbs to show the fruit of
the seedling, we will say, that no fruit seed should ever
be permitted to get dry. It should be gathered, washed
cleanly, and then packed in light layers among clean sand
or charcoal dust, and kept free from heat or warmth, until
the ground in spring is warm enough to sprout vegetation.
The better and plain way of keeping the seed is to bury
the packages on the north side of a building, and covering
- with three to four inches of earth. This keeps the seeds
dormant until time for planting in spring. ‘The nut fruit
seeds, like peach and plum, had best be carefully cracked.
The cherry will open of itself, and should be first planted
in spring.

BEST AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING OF SORTS,

How To bo IT,—ALSO THE BEST SEASON.

The best age for transplanting apples, pears or plums
as standards—that is trees grown upon roots of their spe-
cific sorts,is at two years from the growth of the bud or
graft. The pear grown upon the quince, the apple upon
the Doucain or Paradise stock, the peach upon the plum,
the apricot and nectarine upon the plum,—should be
planted at one year from growth of bud or graft.

If the trees come from a nursery, not grown by yourself
and upon your own ground,—then rst, wet the package,
on receipt, before opening. 2d, dig a trench in some
light, dry soil, into which you can heel in the trees or
shrubs. Lay these trees at an angle of about forty-five
degrees, the tops at the south and so that the roots and
half the length of the bodies be covered with earth. The
roots eighteen inches deep, and the bodies ranging from
six to two inches as you go from the upper or crown roots
of the tree to the top.

Trees received in autumn too late for planting, throw
some brush over the whole and scatter thereon straw or
leaves, to shield from sun and cold during winter.

12 BEST AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING.

Trees can be transplanted safely at any age, but in the
work there must be knowledge of the man who guides
it, as well as workmen careful of their work among the
roots. The old practice of moving trees by frozen balls
of roots caused by digging around in late autumn and
left to freeze, and be moved in mid-winter we have long
since abandoned, knowing that careful digging of the
roots and preserving them, either early in autumn or early
spring, the tree can be moved with better success and
less expense than the old ball handling.

The writer of this has moved trees—both deciduous
and evergreen—in mid-summer, without failure. The
growth of the season, however, must have formed and
ripened with a terminal bud, and when deciduous trees
were removed at that time, the foliage was all removed
by clipping it from the petiole half way to the bud. With
evergreens we clip back nearly all of the present year’s
growth, leaving one bud only upon the wood of the
present year.

The best season to plant out, we may say, 1s very early
in autumn or early spring. Location and climate must,
however guide the rule. In the Southern States mid-
winter is the time. In the Southwest, March and April,
not later, isthe time. In the temperate, or zone of most
of our hardy trees, early autumn for apple, pear and
plum ; for peach, apricot, grape, nectarine, early. spring.
The North, as of Minnesota, Canada, etc., had best ob-
tain their trees in the autumn, heel them in as we have
described, and not plant until the ground is a little

warmed in spring.

BEST AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING. 13

Ere we leave this chapter on planting, let us remind
those who plant, that the holes should be four inches
at least larger than the diameter of the roots; that the
base center of the hole should be just a little crowning ;
that the roots should be carefully spread as they natur-
ally grow, and fine, rich earth—no manure—placed in
and around them, by the fingers of the hand outspread.
Place the tree so that its upper tier of roots will be cover-
ed four inches. Do not tread with the foot upon the loose
ground over the roots, for it only has a tendency to bend
them out of place, and a crooked root is sure to make a
crooked “tree. The hand ,or: spread finger pressure’ of
the earth firmly at the base of the tree will cause it to
stand firmly and never need a stake or outside support.
The writer of this has planted thousands of trees from
one foot to forty feet in height, and never used a stake.
Mulching, with coarse manure at first, then in June with
fresh mown grass, a distance of say six feet diameter
around the body and over the roots is what is needed
the first year after transplanting. |

WHEN AND HOW TO BUD OR GRAFT,

Or MAKE CUTTINGS OR LAVERS.

Budding is a process of propagation of varieties ; so
also grafting and growing from cuttings or layers. There
are various modes of performing the work, and however
well we or other authors may describe it, we advise every
new beginner to visit a leading nurseryman or amateur
fruit grower in his immediate neighborhood, where he
can learn more in a half day of observation than all of
what.1s printed. “In -order to be: successful,) beth the
stock and graft or bud should be in a healthy, vigorous
state.

The time to bud is generally with the cherry and plum,
in August following with pear, apple and peach. The
name of the month here specified is indicative of the sea-
son, and taken as a guide for the northern and middle
States. The grafting period is usually upon the ap-
proach of spring, but grafts, in large quantities are
made upon pieces of roots during winter and packed
away in sand to be planted in spring.

Cuttings of buds, for budding, may be made at any
time when the tree has formed its terminal buds of growth

for the year and the buds are ripe. |

WHEN AND HOW TO RUD OR GRAFT: 15
; .

Grafts may be taken from the tree or vine any time
after the leaf of the year has fallen, reference however
being had to the temperature of atmosphere, which
should never be below freezing. The various modes of
budding may be described as follows :

American Shield Budding, first described by Forsyru
in’ 1802. It differs from the common shield budding
only in leaving a small piece of wood at the base of the
bud inserted, instead of taking all out. An incision is
made lengthwise through the back of the stock, and a
small cut at mght angles at the top, the whole somewhat
resembling the letter T.—(see fig. 3.) A. bud is then
taken from a shoot of the present year’s growth, by shay-
ing off the bark an inch or so in length, with a small part
of the! wood directly beneath the bud.—(see fig. 4.) The
edges of the bark, at the incision in the stock, are then
raised a little—(see fig. 5,) and the bud pushed downward
under the bark.—(see fig. 6.) This work is generally
-performed with what is termed a budding knife, one end
of the handle of which is of ivory or bone, and so smoothly
shaped that removing or loosening the bark to admit the
bud, does not injure the tender fibrous lines beneath.

16 WHEN AND HOW TO BUD OR GRAFT.

A band&ige of bass bark—(from what is known as
Russia matting, or made from stripping of our Linden or
Bass-wood trees in the spring, and tempered into strips
by keeping it in water for a time,) is then wrapped around,
commencing at the bottom and passing the bud, returning
again and tying just below, covering all but the bud.—
(see fig. 7.) The pressure should be just sufficient to
keep the inserted portion closely to the stock, but not
such as to crush or bruise the bark. Woolen yarn,
or soft strips of old cotton cloth may be used as substi-
tutes for ties in place of the bass bark.

In about ten days or two weeks after insertion, the
strings or bandages will require to be loosened, and at
expiration of three weeks removed altogether.

The ensuing spring, as soon as the buds begin. to
swell strongly, cut off the stock about six inches above
the bud; and as the shoots of the bud grows, tie it with
any soft material to the piece of stock above its insertion,
until about mid-summer, or when it has made two feet of
growth, when the stock should be cut away above the
bud—back of it, and leaving a sloping cut downward
from the top of the insertion of the bud.

When you are inserting buds, never put the bases of
the stems on which they are, in water. Keep them wrap-
ped in a damp cloth, free from the sun’s influence.
Again, when you cut the shoots or buds for insertion, at
once cut away the leaf, otherwise the evaporation will ex-
haust and injure its vitality.

Buds, having the leaf removed, may be kept fresh and

full of vitality for a number of days, if placed in a cool

WHEN AND HOW TO BUD OR GRAFT 17

room and wrapped in damp moss or cloths. If they are
to be mailed they should have damp moss wrapped around
them, and then be enveloped in oiled silk or linen.

Ring Budding is another style, adapted to hard wood
wood trees, as the chestnut, magnolia, etc. It is question-
able whether this 1s as good as side grafting , for which see
heading. In performing this a ring of bark is taken
from a limb or stock, and one of corresponding size, con-
taining a bud, is put in its place. (see fig. 8.) Trees

Ries 3:

that have been girdled by mice or rabbits during winter,
may be restored by the process of simply putting in live
bark from a tree of its kind. Another way is to insert a
number of grafts early in spring, each cut with a sloping
cut on the inside at both ends, meeting with the albumen
or sap rising formation in the large limb or stock.

In either of these practices, the whole should be cover-
ed with grafting wax, either applied with a brush or having

been spread upon cloth, and then wrapped over the whole.
29

«

GRAFTING.

This, like budding, has numerous modes of being
performed. It is perhaps one of the most plainly un-
derstood, practically, from reading, of any course of pro-
pagation.

Whip or Tongue Grafting.— This is most generally
practised when the stock and scion are nearly of an equal
size. The whole gist of it hes in so forming the graft
and stock that the two outer surfaces of albumen, or
wood of last year’s growth, meet one with the other; or
if the stock or scion be either too large, the outer line of
the last year’s growth shall match on one side. —(see

fig ro.) ‘The tongue is a notch cut in the stock, corres-

PinG 1"

ponding with one cut in the graft, each having a lip, as it
were, to meet each other, and when put together, serve as

GRAFTING. 19

a support in steadying the graft, until the circulation of
‘the sap has united it with the stock.

This system is practised largely by nurserymen in the
propagation of the apple, and is generally called root graft-
ing. The work as we have before said, can be done in
mid-winter,—the roots and grafts kept in sand for spring
planting; or it can be done upon stocks in the open
ground in spring, or upon limbs of trees in bearing, and
upon which the owner desires to see many varieties.

Splice Grafting is similar to the foregoing, except that
no slit is made in either stock or graft, and consequently
it is not counted as desirable.—(see fig. 11.)

Crown Grafting is another mode. It is rarely done,
however, except upon small stocks standing in the ground
near the upper rootlet or fiber.—(see_fig. 12.)

Saddle Grafting —This is one which we have found
practically of value with the cherry, peach, plum, apri-
cot, etc., and especially if we had a new variety that was
received late, (fig. 13,)—shows it with the stock pared
obliquely on both sides until it becomes an inverted

20 GRAFTING.

wedge. The scion is then slit up the center and sides
pared down to fit the sides of the stock.

Fig? tre.

S7de Grafting .—This is one of the modes best adapted
in the grafting of the cherry, peach, plum, grape, magno-
ia, chestnut, etc., when grafts are not of full vigor. As

may be seen in our cut—(see fig. 9)—a notch or slit of
about one inch long is cut in the side of the stock—
paring the outer portion, then splitting the graft and

paring both the inner and outer portion, so that when in-

GRAFTING. 24

serted there will be a union of the bark and wood. The
graft should be wrapped with grafting clay or wax—usu-
ally wax on a cloth is best—and the stock should not be
headed in until the graft shows signs of union, and then,
the pruning back should be gradual.

Cleft Grafting is an old mode rarely now practised.
It consists in sawing the stock or limb off square, then
splitting it down with grafting knife or chisel, cutting the
lower end of the scion in the form of a wedge, and insert-
ing it, so that one side, at least, will be in association with

b=. FIG. g.

the albumen or inner bark. The withdrawing of the chisel
or knife holds the scion or graft firm, and it may «then
be protected from, storms by grafting wax or clay.

Grafting Wax is made in various ways. The following
has credit of value : four parts rosin, three parts of bees-
wax, three parts lard. When well mixed dip cotton cloth
in it while warm, and afterward cut them to meet the use
you require.

Making Cuttings, whether, of currant, gooseberry or
grape, any time,from the fall of the leaf of the season,
until two or three weeks previous to the Sane of spring
growth is a good time.

The gooseberry and currant cuttings should be, say
eight inches in length, and of the present year’s growth

22 GRAFTING.

from the strongest shoots. The grape cuttings should be
made any time from the fall of the leaf in the autumn until
the buds commence to swell in the spring. At no time
should they be taken from the vine, when the thermome-
ter is below freezing.

The cuttings should be of the best and ripest wood.
Any well ripened wood cut with two eyes on it; as shown
in figure 5, 1s all that is requisite; and yet we confess a
penchant for the old style of mallet cutting, which is
shown in our figure 6. It differs from the former only in
the fact that it is made with an inch or less of the old

wood attached to the base ofthe cutting, and in that
attachment, of base, or crown is supposed to be stored
up a greater amount of vital life-giving power than can
be concentrated in any one distinct bud—that junction
or connection being, in fact, filled with buds, dormant
so long as the main bud exists, but ready to do service
as soon as that is destroyed.

LAYERING GRAPES. 23

LAYERING GRAPES.

Some varieties, like the Delaware, do not grow readily
from cuttings when planted in the open ground. If you
have a grape vine, say three years old, in spring, just as
the buds begin to swell, lay down upon the ground such
vines as start from nearest the crown or ground. Mark
the space; then dig it away about six inches deep, in
the form of-a long, narrow trench. ‘Stretch and peg
down (4,) the vine as shown in the accompanying sketch.
As soon as the buds have grown about eight inches,
a slight clipping with the knife directly underneath the
bud, (a,) and fill up the trench with a good soil,fastening
the extreme end with the peg at (4.) In the autumn
each bud or new plant will be found with roots, as at (¢.)
When one single strong plant only is wanted to be ob-
tained by layering, bend a strong shoot and cut away the
end buds back to one good strong bud, and let this alone
grow.

PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING,

AND FOR TWO OR THREE YEARS THEREAFTER OF THE

APPERS PEAR, PLUM, PHRACH, GRAPE. “RTC:

Trees received from the dealers, in the hands of nurse-
rymen, are often, we regret to say, so wretchedly taken
up and packed as to be almost worthless. Again there
are men who as tree dealers, are just as reliable and hon- ,
est°as the man for whom they’ take am ‘order. ihe
buyer must beware of an agent that has no vouchers of
the fact that he is their agent, and his beat, hke a police-
man’s, is over a certain territory.

Now, when we write for the public, as to how to treat
these trees, when received, and how to prune them at
transplanting, we have a wide field to fill. We expect
criticism from every tree salesman and so, more or less
from those who send out their agents. Nevertheless,
we will and must say here, and forever hereafter, that
the planting of orchards, and culture of fruits, is largely
due to the tree agents, who have engaged in the going
among our comparatively isolated people, and showing
them specimens of fruits; also colored illustrations of the
same, with a promise to deliver ‘trees that will produce

PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING. 25

the same, at a certain time on payment of the regular rates
of the growers or nurserymen.

With this preface to our treating, let us say that when
your trees are to hand by means of packing, and trans-
portation, you will from neglect of the transporters, find
some dried, and others with the tops broken, etc.
Some, and most, at this period, are cased in boxes, so
that broken tops etc., cannot be laid to the charge of the

transporters.

When the trees come to your hands, have ready a trench
to imbed the roots; but ere you imbed them take each tree,
and with a sharp knife, from the under, toward the upper
side of the root, cut it smooth, taking away all the rugged
lines; next take the top branches and as apparently of
the roots; they should be shortened in the main branches,
one-quarter to two-thirds of the past years growth, while
all of the small twigs, or limbs, be cut cleanly to a line of
the branch from which they grow.

This done, and our rule for planting pursued—see fore-
going—no special care will be needed until one year has
passed; then the trees should be gone over again, say at
the time near to the formation of the terminal buds of
growth of the year; care in pruning should now be es-
pecially given to the shortening in of irregular branches
that show tendency to destroy the true roundish upright
head ; small slender twigs should be cut away close to the
branch from where they have grown. Do not leave a
knob of half an inch projection, but cut clean and smooth,
and the wound will soon heal.

26 PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING.

Trees pruned yearly, judiciously, without too much of
thinning out of the tops, because our hot suns require
foliage to shade the limbs far more than in climates of
more regular and even temperature; will rarely require
to have a large limb removed. Old orchards that have ©
been neglected, it is best to go over at the same time given
above for young trees. Do not practice the use of an axe
and leave a knob of six inches, to either send out many
sprouts, or rot and decay, sending its poison into the sap
that goes to form new wood. Use a pruning saw, and
trim all smooth with a knife; then paint-or gum over. the
fresh cut. |

Soft wooded trees like the peach or grape vine, a half
inch or so should be left above the bud; but with these
rarely is it necessary to cut limbs or canes over half to
three-quarters of an inch diameter.

The standard apple, pear and plum, should have their
first branches start at about three to four feet from the
ground, while those to be treated as dwarfs, as the apple
on Paradise stock, pear on quinces, peach on plums,
should have the lower branches start from about one foot
from the ground, and yearly so pruned as to cause them
to form a pyramidal shape at first; this being brought
into a rounded head, at the end of three or more years,
by shortening the leading upper shoots the most.

There are a few leading points in the pruning and cul-
ture of trees, of which DuBREUIL, a french author who has
been largely quoted, gives some good points in pruning ;
in others, our practice leads us to think he fails. When

PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING. 27

he says:—we quote—" that the vigor of a tree, subjected
to pruning, depends in a great measure, on the equal
distribution of sap in all its branches,’’ he 1s measurably
correct ; but when he adds: ‘‘ the most vigorous parts,
should be pruned short, at the same time leaving the weak
shoots long,’’ we think he errs; for our experience has
been, that cutting back the strong shoots to two, or three
buds, and leaving the inferior shoots long, has broken
the form of growth we would have in the leading shoots,
and left us at two years, with amass of puny branches

to be cut away as refuse and unsightly.

All this varies however in the varieties of trees; some
have little or no tendency to throw out small twigs, as Te-
tofsky and Red Astrachan apple, Bartlett and Clapp’s
Favorite pear, etc; and while it has been said, and 1s by
many advocated to-day, that a tree once rightly started,
and then left to itself, free of pruning, will most fully de-
velop its sap, and come into bearing more healthfully
than when trained to meet the mind of man.

Again in pruning, it is said by DUBREUIL, that when
the tree comes into bearing, the leaving of a large quantity
on the strong shoots, and removing it mainly from the
feeble, that the sap on the strong wood, will be absorbed
by the fruit, and it will make little growth, while the
parts will increase in size; this does not coincide with
our experience. <A practice of this course two years
found us with little, or no good sized or rich fruit; but
with our tree, all cluttered and out of shape. |

We would, that the limit of the work designed by the

28 PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING.

publisher would permit us to carry out the whole of this
subject, but we fear it will not ; we will only add, that in
all of pruning of the pear, apple, or cherry, and perhaps
other varieties, no knife should ever be used after the first
three years from transplanting ; walking through the orch-
ard and seeing here and there a limb growing too fast to
meet equality in after time of its associates ; just a pinch
of the finger and thumb, breaking away to a bud; the
soft wood of the end is all the pruning that is required.
Nature is wild and is responsible, like mankind; but lke
mankind, she does best with just a gentle check here and

there, now and then.

THE GRAPE.

We have shown in a former article, a chapter how to
form the grape cutting for out of door growing. We now
propose to show how to plant and prune the grape, which
next to, if not superior to the pear, is bound to be part
and parcel of every small homestead, and from it, on to
its hundreds of acres for supply of its luscious and health-
ful food to the millions that have no garden grounds.

Once upon a time, the writer had much to do with var-
ieties of grapes, the growing from cuttings, layers, etc.,
and came to the conclusion that a good, strong, healthy,
well rooted plant, grown with space of one foot apart,
was better and more likely to be successful than the plant
grown from a single eye and only three inches apart in a
frame. My estimate is now appreciated by one who
watched my work, and who says now that every year-
ling grape grown from a cutting should have eighteen
inches of space to make it read/y valuable.

But let me show the reader of this book my illustra-
tions of how I made cuttings, and how the roots and
growth showed. They all had the same care and soil.
As before said, in an item of how'to form a grape cut-
ting for out-door culture, we present the following illus-
trations. Figure A shows a cutting made of two buds, all

30 THE GRAPE.

the lower part being rasped with a coarse wood file, cross-
wise over the surface, and breaking up the continuity of

outline, tearing and destroying the outer cuticle or, bark,

Erie) A.

and rendering the wood more accessible to the action of

moisture and heat. Some growers shave all the bark off
from the lower end® of ‘the cutting. “There are some
doubts of the practical value of this method. We have
been unable to perceive that the cuttings so shaved or
rasped made any more certain or vigorous growth. In
Delaware and Nortons we fail to grow, say ten per cent.
Why, when they all apparently are equally good cuttings,

have the same handling, etc., is this so?

‘Fic. B.

Figure Bis a representation of a two-eyed Delaware,

THE GRAPE. 31

prepared and grown with the rasping process. The lower
roots were strong and good, but the wood below the bud
all destroyed.

The cutting called the mallet differs only in the fact
that it is made with an inch or less of the old, or two-
year-old wood attached to the base of the cutting; and in
that attachment of base or crown, are supposed to, be
stored up a greater amount of vital, life-giving power than
can be concentrated in any one distinct bud, that junction
or bud being, in fact, filled with buds, dormant so long as
the main bud exists, but ready to do service as soon as

that is destroyed.

he Ee,

Figure C shows a representation of this cutting; and

we are strongly disposed to believe that when the most
sound, healthy plants, vigorous in every essential of vital
life, are wanted, they must be procured from cuttings
made to embrace this junction of old and new wood;
wherein, as in the crown of the seedling tree, the most of .
life-giving power exists. We do not doubt but that under
care and culture, the plants grown from single eyes, or
two-eyed cuttings of last year’s wood, may in time become
full and perfect; but their growth is constantly enfeebled,
and more and more, as the buds from which they are
grown are destitute of full and perfect life.

The ground in which these were planted, after being
kept in sand, so that they exhibited a slight callous or

32 THE GRAPE.

little white lip of delicate tissue, just around the outer
edge of the lower cut was of a light sandy loam, and
after planting the cuttings, old tan-bark was spread two
inches deep over them.

Most of the cuttings were put under the soil two
inches above the top of the bud.

Hl
pi

fli
Type
tg Mar
TRU

Pies i

Fig. 1 is from one of the strongest woods and buds,
having an inch of wood below the bud. Its roots and top
are strong; the number of large roots not as many as in
fig. B; but they are longer and stronger. Let me say just
here that the wood growth was not all alike

THE GRAPE. 33

Fig, 2.

Fig. 2 is a representation of a single bud of wood like
fig. 1; but its vitality was not the same, consquently the
growth is not the same.

Fig. 3 shows the growth of roots and top of fig. 1, in
the spring of the following year.

It is to be regretted that I have now no drawing of the
roots of the best of the cuttings, as the madlet cutting
having a piece of the old wood at the base of lower bud
of the cutting. :

Having shown partly, but not quite fully, the growing

from the cutting, let me come to quotations of a thorough-
3

34 THE .GRAPE.

bred cultivator of the grape, and I believe the readers of
this book will not regret it.

He says, “I have been looking over my former year’s
work, have been reading back or rather over again the
views of others, and, after studying all, I took my spade
and digging fork and went to an Isabella vine, planted
some ten years or more since, and which has never shown
any disease, but yearly ripened its fruit regularly and
evenly. It was in clay soil. I dug carefully all around it
a distance of four feet each way from the vine, or eight
feet diameter, took out a trench with spade, then with my
fork I commenced to shake out roots, but there was no
direct tap-root of any size, and altogether the larger por-
tion of the roots were within ten inches of the surface.
Small roots, as large as a goose quill, it is true, were
apparently down below. Some of them pulled up in lift-
ing the vine, others broke off, but there was not a large or
main root so situated.

It may not be that this is any guide showing the general

THE. GRAPE. 35

habit of roots of the vine, when grown in vineyards of clay
soils and yearly pruned; but for the present I think I will
so consider it, and when I plant, avoid as I have gen-
erally heretofore, setting my roots toodeep. Most writers
on the grape tell us that the roots must be planted deep,
at least they must have ten inches of soil over and above
the upper root of the plant; and they tell us that if the
plants are too small for such purpose, then we must ex-
cavate a basin, set the plant, and as it grows, fill up around
the stem. In my soil, if the spring proved a rainy one,
were I to plant in that way I should have my labor for my
pains; for all the plants would rot before they could
possibly grow sufficiently to allow the earth to be drawn
to a level.

The following figure shows this mode of planting as I
understand it :

A straight line drawn across from the ends of the
dotted line would show the level of the ground; the dotted
line the excavation, with the plant having two eyes, and
set in just deep enough to cover the lower eye or bud
with soil. The roots are shortened as here shown, to
about eighteen inches in length, and spread out regularly,
setting the base of the main stem on a little mound or
rise—not a sharp cone, but a broad mound.

I have practised this mode as an experiment, and with

36 THE GRAPE.

a disposition to try all ways, but in three successive years
I failed of getting as early a growth, nor did my vines
make up for lost time in the hot months of summer, as has
been sometimes stated they would.

The next manner of planting, highly recommended by
good cultivators, I have followed with good results. It is
to prepare the ground where this plant is to stand by
finely pulverizing it, then excavate a breadth or circle
sufficiently wide to admit of straightening out the entire
roots of the vine without cutting away a single inch;
make the excavation about six inches deep at the outside
of the circle, and rising so that the center is four inches
below the level of the surrounding ground. The accom-
panying figure shows this method, the straight line being

the surface of the earth, the dotted line below that of the
mound on which the plant 1s placed before filling in the
earth. This depth for planting I belheve a good one, but
I fail to find any gain from leaving so much root; and as
it increases the labor and expense of planting fully one-
half, I think I shall follow out my old plan, viz :—with my
knife I cut away every small fiber or thread-like root, and
all that are as large around as one of FABER’s lead
pencils, I shorten back to sixteen or eighteen inches, then

THE GRAPE. 37

prepare my holes with the mound in center, and plant
just as when the roots are of full length.

I never use any water or muck for dipping my roots
when setting, but I keep them well wrapped in a wet cloth,
from which I take out one at a time, as wanted for
planting.’’

As an item of record, it may be well to say, that single
grape vines trained upon a wall, say of a house or barn,
and well supplied with food at the root, will often produce
all that one family would need. On Kelley Island, we
once saw a vine of Catawba, the roots of which were
near where the daily wash of slops, soap-suds, etc., were
thrown from the house, and from which, yearly, two to
three hundred pounds of ripe grapes were gathered.

It is said that one of the largest grape vines in the world
is at Montecilo, near Santa Barbara, California. It is
estimated to be over one hundred years old, is nearly five
feet in circumference, and rises eight feet erect from the
root, where it branches out in every direction. It is said
to have produced six tons of grapes in one season, and
that fifteén hundred gallons of wine have been made from

it In one year.
WHEN TO PRUNE. :

The best time is just at the fall of the vine leaf in Oc-
tober. Let the main pruning be at that time, if it be
possible to command that time; but if the work cannot
then be done, do it if you can, before severe freezing
weather; if not then done, postpone it until there comes

38 THE GRAPE.

a regular thaw in winter—say a week or ten days of soft,
moist weather, when the frost is nearly or quite out of the
ground—and then don’t neglect your duty any longer.

HOW LO FRU Nis

This is the second question, and one that is answered
so variously by writers on grape growing, and is talked of
so oppositely by vwzgnerons, that an answer in any way will
be said by some to be assuming; but, having studied the
grape pretty thoroughly, and having read every treatise of
which we have ever heard, and practised, or observed the
practise of each writer, we feel that what we say of *‘ How
to Prune,’’ if practised, will result in success to the pro-
prietor of the vine on which it is performed.

Each variety almost, will, after the first two years, re-
quire a distinct system—so that any general rule for grape
pruning of our vines would fall to the ground if attempted
to be practised. The grape grower must first learn the
habit and character of his variety, and then he can adapt
his pruning and training to a mode or system consonant
with its class.

But, of “ How to Prune; letus:say, first, that summer
pruning—that is, cutting away of foliage after the blossom
has opened—is now counted, by the majority of wgnerons,
as an error; and the reason for the error is, that each leaf
and end of a shoot has a corresponding connection with
the spongioles or feeding ends of the roots, and once the
leaf or shoot connecting therewith is broken, the spongi-
ole rootlet, or feeding mouth, is affected—is closed from

THE GRAPE. 39

its natural action, and, as a consequence, rot and decay
ensue, creating at the root of the vine, a fungoid diseasé
which, if the same system of summer pruning were per-
sisted in, would, in a few years, result in apparent out-
ward disease of the vine, and in rot and mildew of the
fruit.

Having said this much of summer pruning, let us now
suppose you have a vine planted this past spring, and that
you have permitted it, as you should, to grow just as
many or just as few shoots or vines as it pleased ; but now
you want to put it into shape, so that next year it will in-
crease in strength of root and prepare itself to give you
fruit the year following. Take then your knife and cut
away all the small canes, selecting the largest and best in
the center, or as grown from the strongest center bud, and
cut that so that your vine will be as represented in Fig. 1.

ies SE

This first season all vines may be acceptably pruned in
this way; but when the growth in spring comes, it be-
hooves the grower to know his vine and his soil. For
while a Concord, Hartford, or Norton, etc., will in good

40 THE GRAPE.

soil be the- better for permitting the three buds here shown
to grow, the Delaware, Rebecca, Mottled, Elsinborough
and some others, will be better to have only two buds per-
mitted to grow. As the buds start in spring there will be
more or less of sucker sprouts start from the root, and
the dormant bud at base of the main bud will often start ;
the vine must then be watched, and as soon as a shoot
appears, other than the two or three strong ones from the
regular buds, they should be at once rubbed out, and
thenceforward, during the summer, rub or prune no more;
let all grow; for although old time cultivators will tell you
to cut or pull away the laterals, we tell you that the later-
als serve to add to the size and vigor of the lower part of
the cane, and the buds thereon, and every additional
ripened leaf adds to the volume and strength of the root

for the coming year’s aid.

Supposing your vine to have been a Delaware or Re-
becca, or any of that class of short jointed, comparatively
slow growers, it will, at the close of the second season,
present much the appearance of Fig. 2; butif it has been
a Concord, Hartford, Wilder, etc., then you must adda
third cane to make our figure exhibit what your vine
should be in September of the year.

And now your season for pruning has again come, and
by its pruning you hope for fruit the coming season.
Your Concord, Hartford, or other strong growing kinds,
having been grown to three strong canes, if your posts
and wires are put up, and it is pruned and tied, it will, or
should, look very much lke Fig. 3, on page 44.

Each of these canes has three buds, and the two upper

THE GRAPE.

At y hy
a

42 THE GRAPE.

buds on each cane are to produce fruit, while the cane on
the lower bud is to have whatever fruit it will set rubbed
away, and the canes trained for fruiting another year.

On vines—say those of five or more years old, and
with such varieties as Concord, etc.—these canes should
be much longer, and have, when pruned in autumn, from
eight to ten buds each, and then in spring, each alternate
bud should be rubbed out, just before the blossoming of
the vine. Fig. 4 is a representative of an irregular grown

ESSE
ae SS

> ————_ SF

PIG. 44

vine of the past or second year, and now cut to two canes
of four buds each, with a spur cane at the base of one of
them, from which to grow canes for the coming or suc-
ceeding year. This, with its four buds to a cane, it is
supposed should have the lower and the third buds rub-

THE GRAPE. 43

bed out before the setting of fruit, while the upper and
second buds will give each three bunches, making twelve
bunches, full as much as any young vine should bear. So
much, in a condensed form; of |): How, to Prune.’’

Thus far the vines have been trained to simple rough
stakes; but now the trellis must be erected, as the next
“or third season will require its use. Iron wire is found
the cheapest and best for the purpose; the tendrils of the
vine cling to it, which they never do to wood, and thus
very much of the labor of tying is saved. The size of
the wire generally used is classed as No.9. It should be
annealed in order to make it tough.

ROWS OF TRELLIS.

‘The rows of the trellis,’’ say some vignerons, ‘‘should
run north and south, because at the period that the grapes
are ripening they obtain more of the direct rays of the sun
than when they run east and west ; the sun being low at
that season, part of the vines are always in the shade.”’
Other practical men urge the east and west lines, “‘ be-
cause,’’ they say, ‘* at the season of ripening of the grapes,
the midday suns heat and reflect from the ground much
stronger upon the full face of the vine, than when the

be J

rows are north and south.

I have seen the perfect ripening of both lines, and con-
sider that more is due to the cultivation, soil and pruning
than the position of the trellis. |

44 THE GRAPE.

PUTTING UP THE TRELLIS:

Strong posts are to be set at each end of the rows and

braced, as shown in Figure 3. These braces are from

eight to twelve feet long, and fastened at the bottom to a
post set firm in the ground; then at a distance of eighteen

THE GRAPE. 45

or twenty feet on the line of the row, set other posts, leav-
ing each post about six feet out of the ground.

NUMBER OF WIRES.

Three or four wires are required, placed at a distance
of eighteen to twenty inches upward from the ground.
Three wires are sufficient except for very strong vines,
when the fourth is advisable for the purpose of securing
the upper growths, and preventing their falling down over
the lower vines and fruit.

The vines should be fastened at one end post, then
stretched along the line. At each middle or intervening
post thejwires are raised and a staple is driven partially
into the post in such manner as to keep the wire at the re-
quired height. Next, the wires are drawn as tight as pos-
sible and fastened at the opposite end, and then each
staple on the intervening post is driven home, so as to
fully secure the wire and cause a certain amount of

strain to rest on each post.

te

SMALL FRUITS.

VARIETIES AND CULTURE.

There is in this class of our fruits varieties of every cul-
ture and suited to almost all soils and climates. Of
course when bleak cold winds prevail during the dormant
season of the year, more or less of protection must be
given.

With Strawberries one must to a certain extent give
credit to the line of latitude below 40 deg.. and strange as
it may seem to many, the lW7lson’s Albany, which origina-
ted at the north, and is generally grown both in family and
market gardens, is the most popular berry at the south.
The Mezwman’s has favor from a few in South Carolina,
but Georgia says, that ‘‘it is a large and showy berry, but
is inferior in quantity.”’

The Zrzomph de Gand holds as a family or near market
berry, the first place. | |

Longworth’s Prolific, Downer’s Prolific, Green’s Pro-
lific, fda, Charles Downing stand well in all the South.
Yearly many new varieties are brought before the public,
and they are often written of, yet records of associations,
where people profess to meet and give information as to

Jy = Op Cae Wn a O0 il eye 47

value, etc., of sorts, little is obtained. The Almighty
Dollar covers all of those who have invested in a variety
with a view to its sale.

To amateurs, those who care only for their own. table
eating, we advise the Wicanor, Triomph de Gand, Lennig’s
White, and Royal Hautbors, adding if you have room,
President Wilder and Trollope’s Victoria,

We present herewith an illustration of the Vcanor, the
name meaning ‘* The Queen,’’ and which F. R. Exniort,

of Cleveland, had the honor of naming and first describ-
ing. It is a variety of value that should be not only in
private grounds, but also of those of the market gardener.

Many more varieties it is well to mention, but our re-
cord given elsewhere covers all that can yet be depended
upon.

We have Loyden’s No.30, or Seth Boyden, Barnes’ Mam-
moth, Crimson Cone, Monarch of the West, La Constante,
Mary White, Sterling, Margaret, Mary Stuart, Kentucky,
have each, in their time been lauded.

Could we who write grow the Za Constante as does
James A. DouGALL, of Windsor, Canada, a town just

48 SMALL FRUITS.

opposite Detroit in Michigan, we would never be without
it. It is the berry of all when well grown. Now don’t
let any obtain it, unless they intend to grow it carefully,
cultivated in rich deep soil, annually surface supphed with
food. We do wish it was more grown, but there is no
profit in it, except to minister to the palate and pleasure
of our friends.

We will now quote touching Strawberries, a few items
from a writer who is posted. He says, speaking first of
the Alpine or Hautbois class, as follows:—

‘‘T have been looking over some of my old notes and
comments made, and I find that they record every time
the speech of men and women in favor of the delicacy
and peculiar flavor that belongs to this class of strawber-
ries—a class which is acknowledged unprofitable for the
commercial grower, but for those who grow only for their
own table of unrivaled flavor and excellence.

In my own garden I have grown the Red Alpine and
Prolific Hautbois more than twenty-five years, and have
never had a failure; an® to be left without them now
should feel that I was either behind the age or the age
was not cognizant of the natures of these varieties for
family use. ‘The latter I zow believe the true state of the
case, but am willing to be corrected—if any one conceives
it possible.

I do not believe the amateur grower of strawberries,—
whether done by himself or professional employed gard-
ener,—should ever be guided by quantity produced, or
even size; for these two elements almost always militate
against the quality. Let them cultivate in the strawberry

i

SMALL FRUITS. 49

for their tables the refinement of culture they claim to ex-
ercise in that of literature and art, and they would no
longer grow such varieties as /ucunda, Napoleon I//, etc.,
which are perhaps valuable in localities for the commer-
cial grower, and for sale, to those who have no concep-
tion of value, except it be represented outwardly to view.

With these prefatory remarks, I proceed to describe
two or three varieties of the class of /Zautbors strawberries,
with a hope, knowing the satisfaction it will give, that
they may be more generally grown.

Of the old varieties, none deserve higher credit or more
universal cultivation than the Prolific Hautbois—a variety
that although long known by those whose attention has
been drawn to the subject, to the masses is yet a compar-
atively new sort. The vines are very strong, vigorous
growers, sending up their. long fruit-stalks nearly level
with and generally above the leaf foliage, and producing
fruit in abundance, of full medium size, conical in shape,
of very dark, almost blackish red, when ripe moderately
firm-fleshed, juicy, sweet and of a peculiarly high, arom-
atic, pineapple flavor, never to be once eaten but to be
again desired.

The Royal Hautbois is another -and perhaps improved
variety of the above. I have only known it a year or two,
and never believe in commending until I have a good fair
chance of being able to sustain my comments. So far as
I have practical knowledge, however, this variety is desi-
rable. The fruit is medium to large, roundish, obtuse,
conical, with a whitish, rich, sweet flesh. :

The foregoing, Hautbois, are unpopular because not
4

50 SMALL FRUITS.

profitable; for, people on the markets, buy by the eye,
‘not of the palate. Few in the world have a delicacy of
taste. Brought up on fried fat meats, and sweetmeats,
the flavor or the palate has been as much destroyed as
in that of the drinker of poor liquors. Let us hope for
improvement in the education\of those who are to super-
cede us in: lite.

Of others outside of the A/penes and Hlautbors, there are
also a few varieties that should always be in the possession
of those who grow strawberries. The Lennig, La Con-
stant, Triomphe de Gand, are of delicacy and richness.
A new seedling under the name of JZary IVhite is much
after the style of ZLennig’s, only a little more flattened in
form. Another called Sterling is after the Zrzomphe de
Gand, when well and fully npened. In form it is more
conical or obovate conic, in color a rich glossy vermillion,
red flesh, a little acid.

We take up some of the older sorts. Lady Finger, one
of the old varieties, is in favor with many, while others
think it too flavorless. rench Seedling, too soft, and also
wanting in flavor. /da, small but prolific; one of the
earliest and latest to ripen, of a quality that, when ripe,
everybody likes, and one that amateurs who have grown
it declare they cannot dispense with. JZichigan, too
small and unproductive, but of good flavor. Green Pro-
Zific is an abundant bearer, but in quality no better than
Wilson, and not near as firm for market purposes. Z7-
omphe de Gand holds its own as a fine, large and valuable
sort, when well cultivated in rich, strong soil.

La Constante, Emma and Ffooker are all fine flavored

SMALL FRUITS. 51

sorts, but the plants require too much care to keep them
going. Mapoleon [// has only found favorable record in
two or three places. Dr. Wicaise has not been heard of
since its first season. Agriculturist has good reports from
many; and were it not so soft would probably be more
grown. Peak’s Emperor is said to be so much like Agrz-
culturtst that even good judges cannot distinguish them
apart. It is however claimed for Peak’s Emperor that it
will succeed on soil in which the Agréculturist fails. Or-
nament des Tables, as heretofore, proves of the highest fla-
vor, but unproductive. Hovey yet holds its own as the
finest of all varieties for shipping, but it is not sufficiently
productive to meet the wants of the present age.

_ Princess Royal and King Arthur are two of the foreign
sorts that have favorable accounts of giving promise of
value. Zvllip’s Rival Queen is also another of good record.
Lucas has fine flavor, but too unproductive. elle de Lor-
adelatse is said to be the best of all the /Vawfbors class.

The Culture of Strawberries, one of what we term small
fruits, has in it with others, items of practice, depth of
soil, character thereof and location. Our American va-
rieties, taking the We/son, with its strong roots to a young
plant, and Micanor, almost equalling in this particular,
while being quite as fruitful and of better quality, with
Ida, Green’s Prolific, Kentucky, and some others, may be
planted in rows three feet distant, each plant set in the
row one foot from each other, and when acres are grown
the cultivator, propelled by the horse or mule, will do
most of the cultivation. In the small garden, what is
known as the Dutch scuffle hoe, followed by raking the

52 SMALL FRUITS.

surface directly afterward with a common iron hand rake,
is perhaps the cheapest and easiest mode that can be used
by the grower. At the north, or above 4o deg. of latitude,
all these require shielding in winter, which may be done
by the use of straw or bog hay scattered lightly over them
and held from being blown away by winds, by the use of
poles or rails, two to four inches in diameter.

All the foreign varieties like the Zyzomphe de Gand,
Lennig’s White, Trollope’s Victoria, Monarch of the West,
La Constante, etc., should be cultivated in hills having
one good plant, at distances say eighteen inches apart
each: way, the runners cut away as fast as they appear,
and the whole strength of the plant thrown into the fruit.
If new plants are wanted for the coming year the fruit
blossoms should be picked from a few hills and the run-
ners left to take root. In the States or sections below 4o
deg. of latitude, the strawberry is grown with little care or
culture. They need no winter protection, and the crop

ripens ere the hot suns injure the vine.

RASPBERRIES.

New varieties are easily grown from seed, but they have
a tendency to change from the parent. A fully ripe berry
should be taken and planted about one inch deep in light
loamy soil, and shaded, until it has made a growth of two
leaves. A cheap box frame, with slats over the top, an-
swers well, and when the plants are grown six inches high
they should be transplanted, shaded, and protected the
first sinter. Suckers, or offsets, can. <be transplanted

SMALL FRUITS. 53

either in autumn or spring, taking the growth of the season
with root, and cutting the stem to four inches of the crown
of the root. Plants, the growth of the early season, may
be taken up and transplanted by removing most of the
foliage, as with the strawberry. The soz/ best suited to
grow the finer varieties, is a rich deep loam, where there

is moisture, but such drainage that water will not stand.

Souls and locations unfavorable can be made good by
deep culture, and by placing at the bottom of a deep
trench along the row line, coarse barn-yard manure or
leaf litter. Then, after transplanting, mulch the surface
with any refuse straw or hay. Generally an open airy
location is advised, but where shade can be given without
exhausting the soil, by trees, it is desirable, and especially
with the southern portions of our States and the valley
regions. The systems of growing vary, and perhaps are
equally profitable. Most planters grow the plants three
feet apart each way, with two to four canes to a hill, ac-
cording to the soil. Some keep them upright by stakes
and wires, others by simply bending the bearing cane in -
spring, to form arches along, leaving the present years to
grow upright, then cutting away yearly, or soon after the
crop 1s gathered, the last bearing canes.

flaridiness of varieties is a feature that greatly depends
on location. In Philadelphia, parts of New Jersey, the
south shore of Lake Erie, and the eastern shore of Lake
Michigan, most of the foreign varieties and their Ameri-
can seedling offspring, generally prove fruitful without the
laying or bending down and covering. So also there are

54 SMALL FRUITS.

localities adjoining our inland lake bodies of water, where
with careful looking to no standing water in the soil, and
by carefully pinching back the canes for next year’s bear-
ing, from time to time, varieties prove almost hardy. It
is impossible to write definite instructions for the general
readers, and the territory of the United States.

Of the hardiest varieties of this class, i. e. the foreign
and their American seedlings, we will start with those we
count the best, and in the order of ripening. The A7zrt-
land is hardy, in. size almost, if not quite equal to the
Clarke ; is the earliest of all to ripen; of ‘fine quality for
the table, but too soft for distant market transportation.
It should be in the garden of every fruit grower.

The Clarke is not as hardy as las nor will it bear
as well transportation. Next it is a question between Va-
omt and Kunevet’s Giant, and when the product, size and
quality of fruit is counted.

Maomi—of which (see illustration) herewith a drawing,
is one that has made some noise, and whether nine hun-
dred and ninety-nine out of every ten hundred that have
been sold under this name prove /ranconia is doubtful.
It is a distinct sort, and side by side with /ranconia, of
which it is doubtless a seedling, it has stood the winter
uninjured, when its parent has killed to the ground. In
its general appearance it is not unlike the /ranconia ; but
in its quality it is sweeter and richer.

Knevet’s Giant, a variety of which no record seems to be
found in any but American works, is of acknowledged

foreign origin, and has, in years gone by, proved fine.

SMALL FRUITS. 55

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aA

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YA Y/ Ys 7% (if

Yj

NAOMI.

56 SMALL FRUITS.

Belle du’ Paluan 1s another foreigner of good show.
All speak its praise, but from what we have known of it the
canes are not hardy, and therefore the public as a public,

the growers all over the country, will not have it.

The Hudson River Red Antwerp, 1s so often written of
by journals, and as nearly every town has heard of it, it
is needless to write, more. than to say, that on deep rich
soil, laid loose and lightly covered in winter, it is product-
ive, and one of the best in every respect. vavconia is
an old variety, large fruit, deep purplish red and pro-
ductive.

Fflerstine is one of recent production, an abundant

bearer of large fruit.

The Highland Hardy, Brandywine and Turner’s Seea-
Jing are among a large lot of new named varieties. Their
value must be learned by years of cultivation in varied
locations. Of the late or autumnal varieties of foreign
origin, the Belle de Fontenay is one of the best, but has a
strong tendency to sucker, and the grower must destroy a

large portion of them in its cultivation.

A word in favor of elle de Fontenay, a variety that
because of its disposition to sucker freely has been
almost ‘discarded: By or from ‘pure .contrariness, a
man “in the writer's! employs, “threes pyears since, im
hoeing, cut away in spring all the suckers; and so all
summer, when hoeing, he would let but one or two grow,
cutting away all others as weeds. The result was a good
crop of fruit not only on the canes of the previous year,
but on those of the same season’s growth; and repeating

SMALL FRUITS.

a
the process, with like results, up to the present, we now
have fruit on the young canes just as that on the canes of
last year’s growth. As a variety for private gardens, it is
worthy of more general planting than it has received, but
all should remember to cut away the suckers freely, as so

many weeds. ‘The drawing is one of thirteen clusters on
a stem or cane of the year’s growth.

»)

A

S% Zig Z
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BELLE DE FONTENY.
The Large Fruited Monthly and Merville de Four Seas-

ous, are of those that haye had the longest test, and
counted among the best.

Of the Mative Varieties, classed generally with Purple
Cane, Mrs. Wood, and then as Black Caps, varieties that
so long as the public remain without education of the del-

icacy and richness that belongs to fruit, we suppose will

58 SMALL FRUITS.

be grown, as they can be grown profitably, with the least
knowledge of how to gather, pack or ship.

The Doolittle and Davtson’s Thornless are about the
same in time of ripening, are medium-sized fruit and
good bearers. The Doo/itt/eis most profitable. 7Zisdale,
Minnesota, Miama, Ohio Ever-Bearing, Lum’s Ever-
Bearing, Golden Thornless, black Cap, Surprise, and
several others, are no better than: hundreds: of the old
wild American Black and White-Caps, to be found in
fence corners all over the country; and a man owning
ground on which the natives grow, who should cut them
away for the purpose of planting either of the above,
ought to be sent to a lunatic asylum or made to attend
Horticultural Conventions one year. It is questionable if
he got away from either with any improvement of mind
or judgment.

Philadelphia is too well known to speak of, for in quality
it 1s unworthy, and only for markets near by will it an-
swer, on account of the softness of the berry, but for a
market near by, and to supply at low rates it is profitable.
Mrs. Wood is equally productive with PAzladelphia, and
for family use is a far superior berry. It is of a purplish
red and. matures its crop late. Itis a larger berry than
any other belonging to the hybrid class of a cross between
the common American Black and the foreign varieties.

The Miami, McCormick or Mammoth Cluster, all one
and the same, should be, with 477s. Wood, the only two
of our natives to cultivate.

Many more varieties of these classes might be noted,

SMALL FRUITS. 59

but we count it wise to advise the culture of only a few of
the best, for the market, the farm and the garden.

BLACKBERRIES.

The culture of Blackberries is similar to that of the
Raspberry, except they are of stronger and longer growth
of the stem, and therefore should be planted at least six
to eight feet’ apart. Rich soil is a requisite of success,
and often after planting a mulch of four to six inches deep
is better than hand or plow culture.

This fruit is indigenous to this country, is easily grown
from seed, and our best known varieties, under name, have
come to us from observation and the gathering of wildings.
As long ago as 1845 the writer saw fruit, grown from
plants obtained from the woods, that measured over five
inches in circumference. Trimming and training with the
Blackberry differs little if any from that of the Raspberry.

The terms of Blackberry; Dewberry or high and low
Blackberry, all come from the same bramble, and the
Wilson comes the nearest of any in cultivation to the
wild Dewberry. Of the varieties, A’¢/atinny stands first,
as a general fruit for home use or market. Dorchester is
a sweeter berry, the sweetest of all, but it is not very.
productive. Mew Rochelle or Lawton, is a large berry,
but it is almost impossible to: gather a quart of sweet fruit
from the canes. - Welson’s Early, a low growing sort, is a
variety that should be grown, as its canes can easily be
protected in winter. Its fruit is large and of good quality.
Doctor Warder, Newman's Thornless and Duncan’s Falls

a)

60 SMALL FRUITS:

are among the best new sorts named of the black colored
fruit. Vhe Duzncan’s Halle is after the habit of growth of
New Rochelle, but it ripens earlier, 1s productive, with
berries large and sweet when gathered. JZessourt Mam-
moth and Sable Queen coming from two extremes of our
States, viz: the first from Missoun, the second from Mas-
sachusetts, have each claims, but they must take time to
show which quarter of the nation is best.

Colonel Wilder and Crystal IVhite, two varieties sent out
from Albion, Illinois, have fruit, the former medium size,
oblong form, light cream color; the latter has fruit large,
eval roundish, white, sweet and high flavor. Neither of
these are valuable for market.

The Alger, originated at Cleveland, Ohio, is of good
size, oblong in form, of a deep claret color, sweet and

rich, .

We group some berries of varieties.

AYE

NN

WILSON’S EARLY.

SMALL. FRUITS. 61

NEW ROCHELLE.

OPENING OF FRUIT BLOSSOMS.

When watching the opening of leaf and blossom of
varieties of cherry, pear and peach, during their period
of returning life and promise ; for in this their period of
spring bloom we think there is not a little yet to sway us
in our judgment of their value as adapted to localities.

Rostiezer pears were in full bloom before Tyson had
burst the leaf shell; Dutchess was in full bloom before
Beurre d’Anjou had more than just opened. Hale’s
Early peach was the first to open, except one or two seed-
lings, which are of no value in fruit ; Crawford’s Early

came next, then Sturtevant and Red Cheek Melocoton,
and then Old Mixon Free.

Among cherries, one of the very latest ripening sorts
was the first to open its blossoms, while Early Purple
Guigne came with Black Vartarian, and then followed
Red Jacket, which is one of the late ripening sorts. Belle
Magnifique opened before Arch Duke or Late Duke, and
full a week before Reine Hortense or the common Morello.
Early Richmond and Kirtland opened just after Late
Duke, and Louis Phillip came in two days thereafter.

These notes are made from numerous varieties noted,
and if others count the point anything, we hope they will
communicate or publish their observations. ,

PRORUSION Ob BLOOMS, ELC: 3

Without presuming that the blooming period of straw-
berries has aught to do with the period at which they ripen
their fruit, as it is well known some mature quickly after
blooming, while others occupy a greater length of time,
yet as we went among our strawberry beds, we could but
note that of Wilson, Downer and Nicanor quite a show of
flowers appeared. Large Early Scarlet, Green ‘Prolifi¢,
La Constante, Triomphe de Gand, Jucunda, and Lady
Finger had each a few, while Ida, Hovey, Lucas, Napo-
leon III, Agriculturist, Kramer, Bishop, French’s Seedling,

King Arthur, and many more, had scarce a bloom open.

S30 SC) Se

PROFUSION OF BLOOMS,

AND WEA OO}. ane -

Years ago we wrote as follows, but deem it to-day ap-
plicable, and so quote one of our old articles :—The pro-
fusion of bloom on my dwarf pears admonishes me of
what must be required of the roots to enable them to set
and fo/d their fruit. I know they will set; but soon after
that, unless the roots are all vigorous and supply food
in abundance, more or less, and perhaps all, will drop ;
so now: is my time to go among them and clip away.
I know it seems bad at first view, but all horticultur-
ists must remember that it takes time to mature fruit or
flower ; such creations are not like mechanics, the work
of hands, and controlled by man at will, but must be con-
trolled by the laws of nature while guided by the hand of
man. So let us cut away as soon as the flower opens, if

64 PROFUSION OF BLOOMS, ETC.

we can, but any way as soon as the fruit sets, and so de-
liver the tree of its over-burden, and save to ourselves a
fair crop of fine fruit.

Now is my time too, I think, to sow my plaster, and I
shall take my early morning time, when the dew is heavy,
and sow from half a pint to a pint over each tree, for as
it falls on the foliage and flower it will hold and assimilate
the ammonia, making apparent its good effects for several
weeks to come.

Yesterday was half rainy, and, looking over my record,
or map, of the trees, etc., on my place, it occurred to me
that some had died and been replaced, with varieties of
another sort. So I went over my ground in the interven-
ing of showers, took down names, and then, in the house,
recorded them in my book. I have found the best way of
labeling trees or vines for permanent orchard or vineyard,
is to make a little map of the grounds, and then designate
row, number, and position in row, of each kind, in a book.
The loss of labels attached to each tree or vine is then of
little account, as a reference to. the book enables me to
correct or supply the name without error. It also enables
me to say of a surety from whom I received the plant,
because at the end of each name of the variety, I add the
initials or name of the person, or persons, from whom re-
ceived; and so, if the variety prove incorrect, I know
whom to blame.

VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

In the preparation of this work no attempt at strictly
pomological description of any variety is offered. The
object being to make plain; after instructions how to
plant, bud, graft, etc.; the varieties that it is most politic
to obtain and cultivate.

A selection has been carefully made, for sections ac-
cording to latitude of climate, and a table made giving the
true name of the variety, and its size, form, color, quality,
use and season, following the terms of the American Po-
mological Society. The period of ripening cannot be
given in a simple table, because of the varied climate in
which the fruit may be grown. A few varieties are suited
to all our climates, but the period of maturing varies.

It is unnecessary to give a list of the 2700 varieties of
apples, or more, as well as that of pears, whose numbers
are nearly the same, as it would be for a fruit grower to
grow them all and expect profit. The cherries, plums,
peaches, grapes, etc., number about one-third each of ap-
ples and pears, and yearly of all fruits new varieties are
introduced.

The writer has had forty years of knowledge in the
study of fruits and their culture, over a large territory,
and the a of the selection of afew, which in truth

66 VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

is best for the grower, has given him many hours of
thought. It is not presumed that the lists given will meet
every man’s ideas, but it is assumed that the varieties
named are among the best and the longest tested as to
hardihood and productive value, and therefore best for
him who wants to plant for profit or his own'use. The
amateur can expend money and time perhaps to good ad-
vantage for his own ‘knowledge, and that of others, if he
has the courtesy to publish what he has learned. ‘The
leading nurserymen are alive to the subject matter, and
ready to supply buds, grafts or small trees of sorts new,
and sent out as exceedingly valuable.

THE APPICE,

We count the Apple as the Avug of fruits, because it 1s
more generally known and used than any other. Apples
are considered more nutricious than potatoes, indeed,
many go so far as to think that they contain more brain
food than any other fruit or vegetable. However that
may be, they certainly exert a healthful influence upon the
whole system when eaten raw or cooked in the most sim-
ple manner. When compounded with butter, eggs and
flour, they are far less wholesome than when baked or
steamed. Apples nicely baked and served with cream
are a delicious dish, and an ingenious housekeeper can
easily devise numerous ways of preparing them for the
table. Many methods have been suggested for keeping
apples in a good condition through the winter. One is to

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 67

wrap each apple—as oranges and lemons are wrapped for
importation—in paper ; old newspapers will answer. Pa-
per is not only impervious to air, but serves to keep the
fruit at a uniform temperature. Another method of pre-
serving apples is to put some dry, fine sand into each bar-
rel and shake it down very gently; powdered plaster is
sometimes used instead of sand. Another way is to pit
the apples in a dry sandy soil. A hole three or four feet
deep should be dug, the fruit put in upon dry straw and
covered with a layer of straw and dry earth. The earth
should be raised above the general level of the ground, so
as to shed rain. When thus protected, the apples are
said to keep well until spring.

With the rapidly increasing settlement of our North-
western States and Territories, and the universal desire of
an intelligent people to cultivate fruit, the subject of va-
rieties adapted to the climate becomes yearly more and
more important. Although it has been somewhat exten-
sively discussed, the vital point, even at this time, is com-
paratively but little understood. ‘That the apple, in some
of its varieties, can be grown wherever a crop of corn can
be ripened, is beyond doubt; yet the selection of varie-
ties, to command success, has thus far been an item of
costly experiment, and to-day is but imperfectly known.
But one single variety, belonging to the class designated
by botanists as Pyrus malus, named and described in the
books as the Duchess of Oldenburgh, has fully stood the
test uninjured in all locations. Many others prove com-
paratively hardy; and, as both variety as well as period
of maturity are required, the planter has necessarily had

68 VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

to assume a risk in selection, which, in some cases, has
been well rewarded, while in many others it has failed.

‘* out of one hundred

The record of one dealer is, that
thousand apple trees, comprising varieties such as North-
ern Spy, Fall Pippin, etc., sold by him and planted in
Minnesota, not one hundred remained at the expiration
of ten years.”

It may be this is an extreme case; but certainly the
failures have been more numerous than the successes, un-
til many have said our Northwestern States were not
adapted to the growth of any but the small fruits, such as
currants, gooseberries, etc., etc. Enthusiasm, careful
observation and perseverance, however, in this, as in all
pursuits, is destined to secure success; and to this end
we find the fruit growers, both professional and amateur,
of the Northwest have, during the past few years, devo-
ted themselves so assiduously that the exhibition tables of
Horticultural Societies have this past season been sup-
plied with a new class of apples, which, while they have
not the size of a large proportion of old named varieties
of the Pyrus malus, possess richness of flesh and eatable
quality almost, if not quite, equaling them; and from
their botanical character in tree—the Pyrus baccata—a
hardihood that insures success to the planter.

With the apple, therefore we commence our table list of
the varieties we advise mainly to plant. As before said,
there are numerous varieties which can be obtained, but
many of them have only a local reputation of experience
touching their value.

The abbreviations in the following table of apples, are

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 69

to be understood. following the columns, say of Szze: 1.,
for large; m., medium; s., small. The Horm, r. c., for
roundish conical; ob., oblong; r. ob., roundish oblate ;
r., roundish. ‘The Color, y. r., for yellow and reds crs}
for red striped; g. y., for greenish yellow; rus., for rus-
setted ; y. rus., for yellow and russet. The Quality, g.,
good; v. &., very good; b., best. Use, f., fruit valuable
for all family purposes; k. m., valuable for kitchen or
market; f. m., family or market. Season, s., summer ;
e. a., early autumn; |. a., late autumn; w., winter ; Ovi-
gin, Rus., for Russian; En. for English ; Am., for Ameri-
can; Ger., for German; F., for Foreign.

All these characters, of course, only designate leading,
positive features, and vary in their distinctness according
to soil and climate in which they are grown.

VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

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VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 73

VARIETIES SUITED FO LATIZUDES.

Having now given a table of a select list of varieties of
the Apple, we will here designate those which we count
most valuable for the range of climate. The periods of
ripening are given in the foregoing table, as near as can
be computed, over the whole territory of the United States.

LIST FOR THE LATITUDE ABOVE 43.

Varieties; Gravenstein, Duchess of Oldenburgh, Te-
tofsky, Red Astrachan, Hawthornden, are varieties of for-
eign origin, but trees hardy and productive. Bentley’s
Sweet, American Golden Russet, Porter, Fameuse, Jona-
than, Winesap, Benoni, Ohio Nonpariel, Pome Gris, Red
Canada, Lady Apple, Maiden’s Blush, Bethlehemite, Kes-
wick Codlin, Wealthy, Gilpin, Ribston Pippin, Mother,
Lowell, Early Strawberry, Peck’s Pleasant, St. Lawrence,
Tewksbury, Winter Blush, are varieties of reputed hardi-
hood, and productive. Lady Crab, Marengo, Hyslop,
Coral, Chicago, Chase’s Winter Sweet; Cherry, Hutchin-
son’s Winter Sweet, White Winter, .Transcendant, Pow-
ers’ Large, are of the Crab-apple class, and all regarded
as of value, where others fail. ‘The above line of latitude
ranges all above the vicinity of Boston, Mass., striking
above Buffalo, N. Y. and Lansing in Michigan, and so on
to the Pacific Ocean, with varying ideas of that broad
shore. 7

We present herewith a few illustrations of what are
called Crab-apples, believing them to be of value where
trees of a more delicate nature cannot be grown.

74

VARIE GILES. -OF..FRUITS:

TRANSCENDANT.

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 75

LIST OF LATITUDES FROM 43,_DOWN TO 40.

This line includes Boston, Mass., and reaches down on
the Atlantic to Burlington and Trenton, in New Jersey,
to Philadelphia and Wheeling, in Pennsylvania and West
Virginia, ranging fifty miles or more above Columbus in
Ohio, about the same above Indianapolis, Indiana, strik-
ing near Springfield, Illinois, and somewhat above St. Jo-
seph, in Iowa, Lincoln or Nebraska City in Nebraska,
and so on to Salt Lake City.

Varieties: American Summer Pearmain, Benoni, Red
Astrachan, Early Strawberry, Williams’ Favorite, Summer
Rose, Ohio Nonpariel, Maiden’s Blush, Large Sweet
Bough, Golden Sweeting, Keswick Codlin, Gravenstein,
Lowell, Porter, Jefferies, Fameuse, Duchess of Olden-
burgh, Jersey Sweet, Bethlehemite, Baltimore, Broadwell,
Bentley’s Sweet, Evening Party, Winesap, Baldwin, Cogs-
well, Wagner, Westfield Seeknofarther, Hubbardston,
Nonesuch, Fall Pippin, Rhode Island Greening, Swaar,
Mother, Lady’s Sweet, Lady Apple, Jonathan, Red Can-
ada, Smith’s Cider, Northern Spy, Wealthy.

LIST FOR LATITUDES FROM 40 DOWN TO 37.

This takes in Maryland, most of West Virginia and Vir-
ginia, North Carolina, Southern Ohio, Southern Illinois,
Southern Indiana, somewhat of Iowa, most of Missouri,
‘some of Kansas and Kentucky.

We feel compelled to select list for the latitude of 40 to
37, to twenty varieties, as follows :

Carolina Red June, American Summer Pearmain, Red
Astrachan, Summer Rose, -Maiden’s Blush, Smith’s

76 VARIETIES OF’ FRUITS.

Cider, Ben Davis, Buckingham, Winesap, American
Golden Russet, McAfee’s Nonesuch, Pryor’s Red,
Shockley, Rawles’ Ganet, Hewes’ Virginia Crab, Willow
Twig, Yellow Newtown Pippin, Nickajack, Gilpin,
Green, Cheese.

THE LATITUDE BELOW 37.

It is reckless and useless to make any list of apples to
be grown in this region of our United States territory.
Evidently, from what we read, the growers themselves
know not of what they grow or its value.

Editors and critics who doubt this statement, may turn
and take from the best records of the American Pomologi-
cal Society’s Transactions, and learn what the fruit grow-
ers of the grand South know relative to the value of ap-
ples in their region. It has been the unfortunate lot of
the writer, ever to have met one from the extreme South

who could give favorable record of any one variety of the

apple.
PEARS.

The Pear is said to be the Prznce of fruits, because of
its delicacy, juiciness and rich melting flesh. In this
work, written for the plain public, we have classed the
apple as A7zg.

Our selection of varieties, will by many be ignored,
yet we feel that when we name a variety to be grown, we
do so knowingly of its past-time value, and hence the
probability of its future. Willing to give credit to those
who have aided in the introduction and culture of this
valuable fruit, we must say that there is in it a feature of

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 77

decay called ‘‘blight,’’ that appears all unknown. The
most intelligent of horticulturist apparently have no ex-
plicit idea of what the blight is, or how it may be checked.

Various remedies for the blight have been recommended,
but no one proves a specific. A healthy growth of the
tree, in a soil moist yet dry, 1. e., void of stagnant water
at the base of the roots, is about the only preventive.

As, with the apple, the selection of varieties has been
made to meet the wants of the public rather than minis-
tering to the fancy of amateurs. So, also, has our list
been classed as to latitude, fully designated as to bound-
aries under head of the apple.

In the list of stze, color, form, etc., we here also copy
from the American Pomological Society’s Catalogue, as
follows :

The columns explain. .Szze—s. small ; |. large; m. me-
dium, /lower—p. pyriform; r. 0. p. roundish, obtuse
pyriform ; r.a.p. roundish, acute pyriform; ob. p. obtuse
pyriform; r. roundish; r.ob. roundish obtuse. Color—
y. g. yellow or yellowish green, with a red or russet-red
cheek ; y. r. yellow and russet ; y. when mostly yellow or
yellowish. Quality—g. good; v. g. very good; b. best.
Use—f. valuable family desert; k.m. kitchen and mar-
ket ; f. m. family and market. Season—s. summer; |. s.
late summer ; a. autumn; e. a. early autumn; 1. 4. late
autumn; w. winter. Ovrigim—En. English; Am. Amer-
ican; F. French; Fl. Flemish; B. Belgium; H. Holland.

With apples, our list ranges ten to forty ; with pears we
reduce and make it ten to thirty. ur list of the best is
as follows :

VARIETIES: OF ERUTTS:

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80 VARIETIES OF FRUITS.
LIST OF TEN TO THIRTY VARIETIES,

Valuable north of 43 degrees of latitude for our range.
For the period of ripening, etc., see table:

Abbot, Ananas d’Ete, Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre
Bosc, Beurre d’Anjou, Beurre Diel, Beurre Giffard, Beurre
Superfin, Bloodgood, Brandywine, Buffum, Clapp’s Favor-
ite, Fulton, Dearborn’s Seedling, Flemish Beauty, Doctor
Reeder, Howell, Kirtland, Lawrence, Louise Bonne de
Jersey, Onondaga, Tyson, Seckel, Winter Nelis, Mc-
Laughlin, Beurre Coit, Souvenier de Congress, Goodale,
Doyenne Boussock.

This exceedingly valuable new pear originated with Dr.
Henry Reeper, Varick, Seneca county, N. Y., from
seed of a Winter Nelis pear, the tree of which grew near

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. Sti

a Seckel. The fruit in form resembles the Seckel, while,
with the rich, honied sweetness of that variety, it has also
the juicy, sprightly vivacity of the Winter Nelis. The
original tree is about twelve years old, and as yet has been
but little disseminated. Weare indebted to Messrs. ELL-
WANGER & Barry of Rochester, N. Y., for specimens
from which we have made the accompanying drawing and
description. The variety is generally known under the
name of Dr. Reeder’s Seedling, by whieh it was noticed
first in American Pomological Society’s Transactions by
CHARLES DOWNING. '

Fruit small in size, globular, obtuse pyriform, pale yel-
low, mostly overspread with a smooth, warm, cinnamon
russet,—stem slender, nearly three-fourths of an inch long,
set in a broad, open, moderately deep cavity, having oc-
casionally a slight lip on one side; calyx open, large for
size of fruit, with erect, divided, rounded segments ; basin
shallow, broad, smooth and open ; flesh yellowish white,
fine grained, juicy, melting, almost buttery, sprightly,
‘sweet, and slightly aromatic; Jdes¢ in quality ;. core medi-
um ; seeds blackish ; season early November.

The list for latitude 43 down to 40, we advise the fol-
lowing:

Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Bosc, Beurre Clair-
geau, Beurre d’Anjou, Doyenne de Comice, Beurre Gif-
fard, Beurre Superfine, Brandywine, Marechal de la Cour,
Clapp’s Favorite, Doyenne Boussock, Doyenne d’Ete,
Duchess d’Angouleme, Flemish Beauty, Glout Morceau,
Howell, Josephine de Malines, Kirtland, Louise bon de
JOney Searreaite, Onondaga, Rostiezer, White Doyenne,

~

$2 VARIETIES OF PRUEES?

Seckel, Sheldon, Tyson, Stevens’ Genesee, Vicar of Wake-
field, Winter Nelis.

From latitude 40 down to 37, we offer the following as
" the best list:

Ananas d’Ete, Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Bosc,
Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre d’Anjou, Beurre Giffard, Beurre
Langlier, Beurre Superfine, Clapp’s Favorite, Dana’s
Hovey, Dearborn’s Seedling, Doyenne de Comice, Mare-
chal de la Cour, Emile de Heyst, Beurre Easter, Glout
Morceau, Duchess d’Angouleme, Doctor Reeder, Jose-
phine de Malines, Lawrence, Louise Bonne de Jersey,
Mount Vernon, Onondaga, Rostiezer, Princes St. Ger-
main, Tyson, and Winter Nelis.

From latitude 37 and below the following have repute:

Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre d’

Anjou, Beurre Superfine, Bloodgood, Buffum, Brandy-
wine, Doyenne d’Ete, Beurre Easter, Duchess d’Angou-
leme, Howell, Lawrence, Onondaga, Kirtland, Seckel,
Doctor Reeder, Beurre Bosc, Beurre Giffard, Flemish
Beauty, Rostiezer, St. Michael Archangel, Tyson, Winter
Nelis, Madelaine, Dearborn’s Seedling, Jaminette, Jose-
phine de Molines, St. Ghislain.

THE CHERRY.

This fruit has its special localities, perhaps more than
any other; and while at the extreme north some varieties
succeed, most of the sweet varieties fail. From latitude
43 down to 4o we may count as the region for the profit-

VARIETIES, OF “FRUITS. 83

able growing of good, rich, sweet cherries. Below the
latitude of 40, say to 37, some varieties succeed, and it is
well to keep planting. The same varieties named in our
remarks hereafter as best, for from 4o to 37, are equally
good for the lower and warmer latitudes. Although the
Cherry numbers less of varieties than the Apple or Pear,
the selection of those suited to various sections is one re-
quiring careful thought and knowledge. We have made
our list to run from to to 20 varieties for latitude. Our
table of terms, as to size, form, etc., is made from the
American Pomological Society’s Catalogue, for we have
full confidence in that Association, made up of the best
pomological intelligence of the world.

Szze—l, large; m, medium; s, small. /Horm—ob h,
obtuse, heart shape; r, ob, h, roundish, obtuse, heart
shape; r, h, roundish, heart shape, roundish or round.
Colon —— |, 7 slively bught:red’y ‘d;.-r,darkired)! almost
black; a,m, amber mottled with red; y, r, yellow ground
shaded and mottled with red. C/ass—H, Hearts, or ten-
der fleshed sweet cherries; B, Bigarreau, or firm fleshed ;
D, Dukes, having a character pn tree and fruit midway
between the Hearts and Morellos; M, Morello, having
acid fruit, and the tree of small growth. Use—f, family,
for dessert ; f m, family or market; k m, cooking or mar-
ket; m, market. Season—e, early ; m, medium, |, late.
Origin —f, foreign; a, American.

FRUITS.

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86 VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

LIST OF VARIETIES FOR LATITUDES.

The range of latitude our readers will please refer to the
apple.

SELECTIONS FOR LATITUDES ABOVE 43.

Arch Duke, Belle de Choisy, Belle Magnifique, Carna-
tion, Dauphine, Donna Maria, Early May, Flemish, Im-
peratrice Eugenie, Imperial Morello, Jeffreys’ Duke, Kent-
ish or Early Richmond, Kirtland’s Morello, Louis Phil-
ippe, May Duke, Morello Ezg/ish, Plumstone Morello,
Reine Hortense, Royal Duke, Vail’s August Duke.

SELECTIONS FROM 43 DOWN TO 40.

Arch Duke, Belle de Choisy, Belle of Orleans, Black
Tartarian, Black Hawk, Coe’s Transparent, Caroline, Da-
cota, Early Prolific, Early Purple Guigne, Elton, Governor
Wood, Kennicott, Kentish or Early Richmond, Louis Phil-
Ippe, Ohio Beauty, Pontiac, Powhatan, Rockport, Red
Jacket.

SELECTION OF LATITUDE 40 DOWN TO 37.

Arch Duke, Belle Magnifique, Belle de Choisy, Carna-
tion, Donna Maria, Kentish or Early Richmond (all one
and the same), Downer’s Late, Dacota, Flemish, Gridley,
Late Duke, Louis Philippe, May Duke, Morello Znglsh,
Nouvelle Royale, Powhatan, Reine Hortense, Red Jacket,
Sparhawk’s Honey.

The ‘above list is as valuable for all latitudes below 37
degrees as can be made under the present record of in-
telligence.

We give here illustrations of Ohio Beauty, Fig. 1, and
Donna Maria, Fig. 2.

Ba. ihe VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

APRICOTS AND NECTARINES.

Of these only a few can be grown by the multitude of
the people. ‘Too much care in the pruning is requisite,
and also it is requisite that an exposure of heat and sun
light be given the tree.

The Apricot is beautiful in its growth, and especially
when it isin bloom. It should be worked upon the Plum,
and the growth yearly kept shortened by pinching off the
ends of strong shoots and rubbing away the feeble buds.
We make no table for these two varieties of fruits, viz.,
Apricots and Nectarines, for the reason that above 42 of
latitude it is unwise to attempt to grow them.

We name but few, but those we do name are of the

hardiest in tree and best in quality.

Breda —is small, said to originate in Africa. The tree:
is one of the hardiest. The fruit, roundish m form, a
dark orange in color, with flesh orange colored, rich and
high flavored.

LHemskirke
- color, with a red cheek; flesh bright orange color; juicy,

is one of the largest and best. Orange

rich and lucious flavor,

Large Larly— This comes to us from France. The
tree 1s vigorous and it is early in ripening. Fruit of me-
dium size, pale orange, with blotches of red in the sun;
flesh, orange colored, separating readily from the stone,
rich and juicy.

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. SIG

Moorpark — Has a great reputation. It is large when
grown with care, but not productive. Orange color.

Roman— One of the hardiest of trees. Fruit of middle
size, pale yellow; flesh soft, but rather dry.

(* THE NECTARINE.

With this we shall deal less in number than with the
apricot. Unfortunately the curculio is the destroyer of
these as well as of the plum, and few care to fight against
it. To grow it successfully even more attention and care
is requisite than with the Apricot or Plum.

Early Newington — is aclingstone. Fruit large, round-
ish ovate; color, a green ground nearly covered with: red
of mottled and marbled shades. The flesh is of a greenish
white, deep red at the stone; juicy, sugary, and excellent.

filruge— Esteemed as one of the best: It is of English
origin, and when correctly trained by pinching of the shoots
it is one of the most productive. Unless this is done no
grower need to expect to furnish good nectarines.

Violette Hative —'This variety, with fifteen or more syn-
onyms, has been everywhere grown, and to-day has the
highest rank in its class. It is of delicious flavor, hardy
and productive. It is of French origin, and has fruit
rather large, narrowed at the top. Color, pale yellowish
green, with marbled red in open sun. //7esh, whitish, but
much rayed with red at the stone; melting, juicy, rich,
and high flavored.

go VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

THE PEACH.

The Peach is a native of Persia and China. It was
brought into this country somewhere about 1680. Its
success here has been to make it the Queen of fruits.

A selection of varieties to the various latitudes is a dif-
ficult matter, yet we shall try to do it.

Above 43 it cannot be grown in the open air.

The list of new varieties is yearly on the increase, and
some prove of value. The greater number, however, fail

to meet expectations.

The following remarks of J. J. THomas, one of our most
intelligent horticulturists, ina report to the American Pom-
ological Society, deserve thought and attention of every

fruit grower :

‘During the early period of fruit culture in this country,
a Jong list of varieties was regarded as a special merit in
any collection, and the nurseryman ‘vho could present the
largest catalogue stood at the head of his profession. This
led to the cultivation of many sorts of little value, and it
became an object of importance to separate the valuable

from the worthless. * * *

A great change has taken
place of later years, and collections of fruits for profit, as
well as for home use, have been reduced to a few select
sorts, the amateur and student of pomology only desiring

Testy weg

a wider range. The lists which are now wanted

are of such sorts as the cultivators may plant for use.”’

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. gi

The variation of our climate and soils, makes this selec-
tion of a few out of the hundreds one of the difficult
tasks. In this little work we have attempted it, but with-
out doubt we have omitted many varieties that are of
value in their special localities; but while we have tried
to confine our range to climate rather than to soil, we have
also in our chapter on soils and locations endeavored to
briefly state the subject. The rules of “me and how to
prune have also changed, and while our chapter on pruning
may not meet the views of many growers, yet we have
written what practise and observation have taught us.
Authors disagree, and synonyms of varieties abound.

We shall make our table descriptive of form, size, etc.,
as before, in one, and then name the varieties suited, as
we judge best, for the range of country our latitude lines
state. The columns explain as follows :

Stze—l, large; m, medium; s, small. C/lass—f, free-
stone ; c, clingstone. Color, relative to the flesh — w, white
or pale colored; y, yellow or yellowish; g, greenish white,
red at stone. Quality—jv, juicy, vinous; m jr, melt-
ing, juicy, rich; s j, sweet, juicy Glands —-s, serrated,
without glands; g, glands globose; r, glands reniform.
Season —In forming this table we have endeavored to
follow the American Pomological Society’s catalogue, but
find that there the terms of period of ripening take 43 de-
grees of latitude, so in our list of varieties for each latitude
we shall designate them as very early, early, medium, late,
and very late.

The column of ov7gin, Am. is a designation of American,
f, of foreign.

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VARIETIES OF FRUITS

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94 VARIETIES OF PRULIS:

VARIETIES OF THE PEACH ADVISED FOR LATITUDE
AG KEOwA).

We name as very early, Early York and Haine’s Early;
for carly, Alberge Yellow and Yellow Rareripe; for me-
dium, Oldmixon Free and Crawford’s Early ; for Zate, Fos-
ter and Late Admirable ; for very date, Hyslop’s Cling and
Wards Late Free... If it be desirable in a large orchard
to extend the list to twenty varieties, then Alexander,
Early Beatrice; for very carly, Cole’s Early Red; for early
to medium, Cooledge’s Favorite, Grosse Mignonne, George
the Fourth, Jacques’ Rareripe, Morris White, Snow, and
Magdala. |

PEACHES TOK LATITUDE 40" TO%37-:

Alexander, Amsden’s June, EarlyBeatrice, for very carly ;
Alberge Yellow, Bergen Yellow, Early York, for early ;
Cooledge s Favorite, Crawford’s Early, George the Fourth,
Snow, Grosse Mignonne, Oldmixon Freestone, Scott’s
Nonpareil, Noblesse, for medium ; Lemon Cling, Surpasse,
Melocoton, for Zafe ; Smock Free, Stump the Worid, Sus-

quehanna for very /ate.
PEACHES FOR LATITUDE BELOW 37

Nearly all of the above named varieties are valued at
the South, and the range from 4o may be strictly and truly
said to cover the whole list of varieties we have given.
The only item in all is, the popularity of a variety as to
its value for market. From 4o degrees of latitude down,
the seedlings are yearly being brought to notice and com-
mended. We shall only name a few, viz.: Alexander,

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 95

Chick’s Early, Connor’s White, Narby, Governor, Im-
proved Pyramidal, Amelia, Muscogea, ‘Thurber, Tuskuna.

PLUMS.

The Plum is highly esteemed both as a dessert and
cooking fruit. It is stated that the original parent of our
cultivated varieties is a native of Asid. There are besides
the cultivated varieties, known botanically as Prunus do-
mestica, Many others, native of our own country. They
are known under various botanical terms, Prunus Chicasa,
Prunus Americana, Prunus Maratima, and in general
terms called Chickasaw, to the latter of which belong the
varieties called Wald Goose, Newman, Mountain Plum, In-
dian Chief, one of the Chicasa family. The North and
the South can depend for hardiness only upon what we
call native varieties. Vermont can do little with our cul-
tivated varieties, except in certain localities, and so with
all the extreme north ; while the records from South Caro-
lina, Georgia, Tennessee, etc., give place only to our native
wild varieties. Ohio and westward had originally many
varieties of wild Plums, from round to oval, color from
dark purple to red and yellow, time of maturity from Sep-
tember to midwinter, if the later were not gathered. The
trade in these native wild plums was at one time a large
source of profit, but the clearing up of the country has
destroyed them as it has blackberries.

The plum to be of valve should hang upon the tree
until perfectly ripe, no matter what the variety. This,

96 VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

with every other fruit, requires thinning to give it size and
flavor. Certain varieties are made into what we call Prunes,
such as the St. Catherine and Prune d’Agen. The Blue
Plum, Damson, Frost Gage, German Prune, Cruger’s Scar-
let, also may be used for this purpose in our warm sections

of climate.
ACCLIMATION, INSECTS, ETC.

Many discussions in regard to the hardihood and _ pro-
ductiveness of trees have been written by capable men,
South and North. This acclimation of trees to a
climate has been the talk of some tree dealers South
and West, they claiming great superiority for those of the
same sorts when grown in Tennessee and Alabama over
the growths of New York and Massachusetts; but after
traveling not a little, and carefully examining, we have
failed to find anything to support the statements — in fact
we have frequently found orchards of trees obtained from
the North superior to those of trees grown from the bud
at the South. We have, therefore, no faith in acclimation.
We do not believe change of climate will change the natu-
ral order of the tree or plant. If any one does, we should
like him to give some tangible proof of his beliefs — some-
thing beside imaginary theory.

The insects, etc., connected with Plum culture has occu-
pied many pages of matter of late years, but mainly results
in the fact that to preserve the crop from the curculio or
plum weevil (Aynzhanus Nenuphar), a small dark brown
beetle with spots of white, yellow, and black. The reme-
dies given for destruction of this insect, or for prevention

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 97

of its destructive agency, are many, but the two we now
name are the most reliable.

One is of aman whose orchard of plums was in a sandy,
loamy soil. It was plowed lightly with a one-horse plow
early in spring, the plow cutting a little more than two
inches deep. During the summer, until about the first of
August, it was cultivated with a horse cultivator about
once in two or three weeks, or just often enough to keep
the weeds down. As soon as the plum trees opened their
blossoms, boys of about fourteen or sixteen years of age
were employed at a cost of eight dollars a month and
board. In the hands of each boy was placed a pole about
ten feet long, on the end of which was fastened a broad-
mouthed tin cup, holding about three half-pints; and
these boys were kept from the first rays of light in the
morning until sundown, going from tree to tree, dipping
the sandy loam into their cups and then scattering it
among and through the branches of the trees, thus so dis-
turbing the curculio that he failed to inflict any material
injury on the fruit. In fact the result was, the owner
almost wished the boys were not quite so faithful in their
work; for, if he could have had one-fourth the plums
thinned out, the crop would have been better, becaues
the plums would have been larger.

This work of curculio hunting or disturbing was. con-
tinued steadily from the time of the first setting of the
fruit—which is even before the whole of the blossoms
have fallen—vuntil it was more than half grown. Some
few trees which were outside of the regular orchard, in
turf ae or where the surface could not well be stirred,

98 VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

were supplied with a heap of ashes or sand from which to
load the cups.

The second prevention, and one now most generally, is
that of giving the tree a sudden and severe jar by means
of a mallet or pole, so protected with India rubber or
gutta percha that it will not bruise the bark. When it can
be done, without injury to the tree, a large lower limb is
sawed off square about two inches from the body of the
tree, and the blow given on it to create the sudden jar.

THE BLack KNor on plum trees has in many places
been a destructive enemy to the trees. We have known
the following to be successful as a remedy :—Take a paint
brush, dip it in spirits of turpentine, and thoroughly satu-
rate the knot, being careful not to touch the tree except
in the diseased part. It stops the knot, and the tree puts
out healthy branches below it. Be careful to burn all
branches removed in pruning. ‘As the summer is the
time the mischief is done, every fresh excrescence should
be pared off, the turpentine applied, and it will harden in
a week.

Having said so much touching the value and troubles
of the plum and its culture, we will make out our regular
table list, copied in form from the Am. Pom. Society, and
following as with other fruits, give our views of the values
in certain latitudes to a certain number of varieties. The
columns explain after names as follows: Szze—l, large ;
m, medinm; s, small. Color—p, purplish or very dark
red ; r, reddish or copper color; y, yellow; g, y, green-
~ish yellow; y, r, yellowish with shades and spots of red.
Form—r, roundish; 0, oval; r, 0, roundish oval; 0, ob,

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 99

oval obolate. Quality—g, good; v, g, very good; b,
best. OUse—f, family; m, market.

In our table we must drop the naming of the season,
inasmuch as the one who made up the Am. Pom. Soci-
ety’s transactions in 1873, undertook to control them as
ripening at a high latitude, rather than take an average
center of the United States.

The Origin—Am, American; F, Foreign, we give in
column,—and in our names of varieties of latitudes will
try to keep in mind record of the period those counted as
very early, early, medium, late and very late.

We make what we think is a select list of varieties, and
yet, we, in naming twenty varieties for one man’s culture,
may omit others that with care and attention would prove
equally good.

FRUITS.

VARIETIES OF

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VARIETIES OF FRUITS

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102 VARIETIES OF FRUITS.

VARIETIES FOR ABOVE LATITUDE 43.

For very carly—Cherry, Jaune Hative. For early or
medtum—Bleeker’s Gage, Copper, Cruger’s Scarlet, Ger-
man Prune, Italian Prune, Lombard, Red Gage, Mc-
Laughlin, Peter’s Yellow Gage, Prince’s Yellow Gage,
Purple, Favorite, St. Catherine, Sharp’s Emperor, St.
Lawrence. For /ate—Chckasaw, Damson, Frost Gage,
Wild Goose.

VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE 43 TO 40.

For very carly—Cherry, Jaune Hative. For early and
medium—Bleeker’s Gage, Bradshaw, Duane’s Purple,
Green Gage, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Lawrence’s Favor-
ite. Lombard, McLaughlin, Prince’s Yellow Gage, Pur-
ple Favorite, Red Gage, Smith’s Orleans, St. Lawrence,
Washington. For /a¢te—Blue Imperatrice, Bavay’s Green

Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop.
VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE 40 TO 37.

For very early—Cherry, Jaune Hative. For early to
medium—Bleeker’s Gage, Bradshaw, Duane’s Purple, Ger-
man Prune, Green Gage, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Law-
rence’s Favorite, Lombard, McLaughlin, Red Gage,
Sharp’s Emperor, Smith’s Orleans, St. Catherine. For
late—Bavay’s Green Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop, Frost
Gage.

} VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE BELOW 37.

Our list for this lower line of latitude, we make more
from the reports of Southern fruit growers than from our
own knowledge. One of the most capable pomologists of

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 103

the South writes touching the plum as follows :—‘‘ The
finer classes of plums, such as Gages, etc., cannot be
grown except in poultry yards, and then only, if the trees
are carefully watched during the period when they set
fruit, and until the latter has attained at least half size.
Our improved varieties of the Cizckasaw type are less lia-
ble to the attack of the curculio, and from this type we
reap full crops every year. Many new varieties have lately
been introduced, and we are confident, that before long,
we shall possess a race of plums that will comapare favor-
ably in quality with the Gages, but with the additional
merit of being better growers and less lable to the attack
of the curculio. The season of maturity ranges now from
the end of May until the beginning of September.’’

With this knowledge from one of the best Southern
pomologists, we shall only add a few varieties to their
native seedlings. We will start our list with Cherry,
Chickasaw, Damson, De Caradenc, Frost Gage, Indian
Chief, Lombard, Mountain Plum, Miner, Newman Tem-
ple, and Wild Goose.

THE) .QURNGE:

The Quince is indigenous to Germany and the south of
Europe. It is a well known hardy fruit tree, and perhaps
pecuniarily one of the most profitable of all fruits. Botan-
ically it is called Cydonia vulgaris, this name said to have
come from the city of Cydon in Crete. Its fruit of fine
golden yellow when ripe, resembling that of the orange,

104 VARIETIES OF FRUITS:

together with its white and pale pink blossoms, when
nearly all the blossoms of other fruit trees are gone, make
it both a profitable and ornamental tree of what we may
call as second class of growth, for the Quince rarely grows
higher than fifteen feet, with a spread of branches fully
equal to the height.

As a fruit for eating raw or uncooked it 1s not esteemed,
but cooked, stewed, or made into marmalade it has few
equals. Asa jelly it is often used as an appetizer to meats,
especially those of delicate poultry. Its juices are said to
have a beneficial effect upon asthmatic patients, while
mingled with the apple, even when dried, it gives a
piquancy to the sauce beyond that of any other fruit.

It is quite productive when young, and meets a ready
market at remunerative prices.’ It 1s so firm that it can
be shipped long distances without injury; in fact, care-
fully packed and confined in a barrel it improves in ap-
pearance for many days: ““The Quince canbe’ easily
propagated from seed, cuttings, layers, or small pieces .
of roots.

Cuttings prepared in autumn and heeled in during win-
ter, then planted out in spring, generally make fine stocks
or plants on which to engraft or bud varieties of the pear.
The fact of the quince making the most of its roots near
the surface, and those small, has a tendency to check the
growth of the pear and so cause it to form fruit buds.
Propagation by small pieces of the roots is one of easy
and all time practice. Simply dig away around an old or
well grown tree, and cut from the roots pieces two to four
inches in length; set these at an angle of forty-five de-

VARIETIES OF FRUITS. T05

grees in any soil and cover two inches over the top, and
growth will ensue. Here perhaps it may not be inappro-
priate to place the accompanying cut, showing how not
only the Quince proper, but the Blackberry, Raspberry,
Japan or Flowering Quince, Sweet Scented Shrub, and
other plants that naturally throw up suckers, may be

propagated. ~

The soil that best suits the Quince is that of a loamy
deep character, and overflowed at times of freshets for a
day or two. But the tree can be grown profitably upon
the poorest soil, by applying on the surface a rich dress-
ing of well rotted manure, and then mulching with old
litter, leaves, etc.

The pruning of the Quince is a mere nothing. While
young, and even when old, sucker shoots will appear near
the crown of the root ni these should be removed, and
occasionally one of the leading, rapid-growing branches
on the tree will require to have three or four inches taken
from its end, so as to cause it to make stronger lateral
branches, and so produce fruit without any breaking down,
Like all other fruits, the thinning out when one-fourth
grown of one-fourth of the fruit will cause the balance to
become larger, and fully pay the expense of pruning from
its increased value.

OF VARIETIES, the Afpple-shaped or Orange-shaped has
long been counted the most tender and best. The Por-

106 VARTE EES (OF SRW itis:

tugal 1s, however, superior in quality, but not as pro-
ductive. Rea’s Seedling has a reputation over the Apple
or Orange shaped. It is somewhat larger, but not as pro-
ductive. The most productive and profitable as a market
sort is the Angers. The trees are healthy, very productive,
and when well ripened and colored will rarely be classed
by dealers as other than the Aff/e or Orange.

The Pear-shaped is unworthy of culture, and there is a
sweet guince, but it is doubtful whether it will fill the
place of others.

ADDENDA.

HOME ADORNMENTS.—THE BEAUTIFYING THEREOF.

The enthusiastic, energetic, world benefiting publisher
of this little book, has insisted upon something touching

the naming of some of the best flowering shrubs, roses, —

budding-out plants, perennials, low growing evergreens,
vines, etc., etc., and, rather than neglect a duty, we shall
attempt to write somewhat of practical use. We do not
propose to. write an essay on esthetic horticulture or the
science of the art, for all such are but as the bloom from
seed first sown in the garden of Eden. But when one
has an old barren piece of ground with a tenement upon
it, we wish to show how a few hardy flowering shrubs
and seeds can make of it a place of beauty, where the
children can play and enjoy themselves without hindrance
or scoffing from their neighbors.

Strange ideas enter into the minds of many persons,
when the subject of beautifying home surroundings 1s
mentioned in their presence. They will usually utter the
far too common and absurd remark that such things are
costly, and it is only the rich who can afford them. It
certainly costs no more, as a general rule, to build a house
ten rods from the highway than one as many feet from 1
and still these latter unsuitable and inappropriate locations

,

108 ADDENDA.

are being occupied almost every day. If lawns are named, .
rollers, particular kinds of seeds, and lawn mowers are
brought to mind ; and while we are ready to admit that
a good lawn cannot be made nor kept in first-rate con-
dition without these implements, still a grass plat, large
or small, occasionally mown, is far better than none.
Even a meadow or pasture in front or near a dwelling
might add something to its general good appearance.
The far too common style of arrangement of country
homes, is to place the mansion within a few feet of the
pubhe road, the barn a few rods in the rear, and the in-
tervening space is filled with wood piles or necessary out-
buildings. If there is a kitchen garden it is usually situ-
ated near the road, at one side of the house, and then
enclosed with a picket fence, painted white or white-
washed. Where a man owns but a fraction of an acre,
such a cluttered arrangement may be admissible and
passed without comment; but upon farms of many acres
in extent, it not only shows a sad want of taste, but of
broad ideas in regard to the fitness of things in general.
A few trees from the forest, planted here and there, cost
but little or nothing, and yet how much they add to the
beauty and elegance of home surroundings, besides afford-
ing an agreeable shade in summer to both man and beast.
Our idea of an elegant but inexpensive home on a farm
where pasture or a meadow is a requisite, 1s to so arrange
it that with moveable fences they can pasture what may
be termed the lawn, and yet keep the beauty of flora’s
gifts. In fact, there are many ways of making home sur-
roundings elegant without incurring any extra expense.

ADDENDA. 109

Farmers in particular are prone to emagine that they can-
not afford to spend much time or money in outside deco-
rations of their homes, and in many instances it would
not be advisable; but little forethought in the general
arrangement of buildings, planting of trees and seeding
down land for meadows and pastures, would give to thou-
sands of homes an air of elegance and refinement without
a penny of additional expense. And after all it is the
thinking that is necessary. ‘The man who thinks learns
to desire ; and desiring learns to act.

And he who sees daily the products of the Creator in
the form of blossoms to produce fruit, flower, grain or
grass, should remember that all of this brought daily to
the observation of his children is leading them to purity
and truth.

As an illustration of what may be done at a small ex-
pense we offer the following. The property was almost a
barren, but in five years paid $4,o00 per year from the
crops:

* The boundary line on the street and each side is grown

with hedge of varieties—some of evergreen, some of
flowering shrubs, willows, etc., etc. As you enter from
the street—which is on the north of the place—at the
left hand is the pond, about in form as per outline on
ground plan; at the south end is a little rock work planted
with shrubs, vines, etc., and so more or less of rocks,
vines, shrubs, etc., dot the banks of the pond, while trees
of ultimate majestic growth cast their shadows over the
water.

Continuing on south beyond the pond is, say eighty

110 ADDENDA.

feet from it, a rustic summer house, with evergreens,
shrubs, etc., surrounding and vines entwined upon it.
And then the straight lines mark the rows of grapes,
while bordering the footpath is a belt of perennials, shrubs,
etc., etc., until you reach indications of trees by dots;
then skipping a space of some twenty feet, for the pur- ~
pose of passing a wagon, should it be desirable ever so to
do, comes a bank, ez masse, of flowering shrubs against
the footpath, backed up with dwarf apples and pears, until
within about twenty feet of the line boundary, which space
is devoted to strawberries.

Going back now to the entrance, on the right of the
entrance and the carriage road we have beds or masses of
rock work, evergreen and flowering shrubs, with elm,
weeping poplar, birch, etc., while bordering the carriage
. way, most of the way to the house, are cherries. A quince
and dwarf pear orchard is off at the right, two or three
rows of grapes, and then the vegetable garden ; while the
stiffness of the avenue of cherries has been broken by
throwing out other trees and grouping from place to place,
something as my dots indicate.

An apple and standard pear and peach orchard 1s south
of the garden plot, while on the lawn the flower beds are
shown, cut out of and surrounded by grass.

Directly in front of the house, some twenty feet or so
wide, is a bank of rock work planted with vines and ever-
green shrubs. Evergreen trees, as well as deciduous orna-
mental sorts, are at the right of the house and in among
the orchard. The rear portion of this place is blocked
out and planted in lines with fruit trees, vines, small fruits,

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712 ADDENDA.

in great abundance; and in the rear of the house are
groups of deciduous and evergreen trees for screen, shel-
ter, and ornament.

THE ROSE.

Now, as the Rose is the pre-eminent flower of all the
world and holds supremacy everywhere, we will take hold
of it as in the spring. !

The blooming season of roses is again upon us, and
every garden is gay with flowers. The more common old
sorts of June roses have among them many superb varie-
ties unsurpassed in perfection of form and color of flower,
if, indeed, they are equaled by any of the Perpetuals or
Teas. No Perpetual or Tea can vie in black, deep, vel-
vety richness with the old African Belle, or present the
rich, purple red of George the Fourth; and when we
look at Cerisette, King Richard III, and many others of
the old Junes, we cannot refrain ‘from wishing them
always with us; but it cannot be, or rather it is‘not now,
and as we must have roses all the time, now let us be
content with the splendor of such Perpetuals as General
Jaqueminot, or the fulness of good old Baronne Provost,
touching up the lines with a host more of shades, then
resting the eye for amoment on Marshal Neil—for its
brilliancy will not admit of long continued gazing at it—
and be satisfied.

After all, while the old June roses are full of beauty,

ADDENDA. 113

yet possibly we have got about their equals when we come
to look over; for in fact Prince Camille de Rohan will
almost equal in intensity of rich blackness old Belle Afri-
caine ; and Madame Victor Verdier is quite equal to Ceri-
sette; and then, if we manage them rightly, they give us
more or less of blossoms all summer long, and even up to
the frosts of winter.

Each planter must use his own judgment as to selection
of kinds and classes, and so, also, as to arrangement of
colors. We would not arrange colors at all, the more
mixed the better — both colors and sorts, Teas, Bourbons,
Noisettes, and Perpetuals; only, in large beds, we should
try to place our largest and strongest growers at the back
and in the center, keeping the dwarf sorts, such as Du-
petit Thouars, Bourbon, or Lady Byron, Bengal, etc.,
in front.

TRAINING ROSES.

There is also great diversity of opinion as to the form
the plants should assume. A good way is the pinching
in the ends of the shoots as they grow, and thus compel
the plant to throw out side branches, and so perfect the
rounded form at the same time that it increases the num-
ber of flowers. To our eye, a bed kept in this way is
much more attractive than when the plants are permitted
to make long, straggling stems here and there.

Another practice, which is also effective, is to peg down
the shoots as they grow, and so literally carpet the whole
ground with roses. In beds mainly composed of large old
plants of Perpetuals the practice is a good one. Especially
if only a long canes of the last year are pegged, while

114 ADDENDA.

the older or two or more years’ wood is all cut away ; but
in newly planted beds, or those of mixed sorts, we prefer
pinching to form little bushes.

The ground for roses cannot be too deep, nor too rich,
if only the enriching compost be well and thoroughly
rotted. Roses budded give larger and better blooms than
when grown on their own roots, but so few appear to
recognize the necessity of cutting away the suckers which
at times come from the stock, that it is advisable to plant
only those grown on their own roots. If, however, the
plants cannot be had otherwise than budded, then always
plant so as to cover the point where the bud was inserted
at least two inches in the ground, and then, if you wish
to make the plant strike roots from itself, as soon as it is
well established take a knife and make a few slight notches
just at the point where it is budded, and from these
notches, or wounds, new roots will soon strike, and when
well grown the old root below can be cut away.

FORMS OF ROSES.

In almost every catalogue descriptive of
roses, as well as in the rose books, there
are certain terms used to indicate the forms
of flowers—terms which, though apparently

plain, yet are often seemingly misunder-
CUPPED. stood. We copy here sketches of the forms
of roses, with their appropriate terms.
Although the actual form of a flower varies with its
growth—some roses being globular when partly blown,

and cupped or expanded when fully developed —it should
4

ADDENDA. 115

always be understood that this point should be decided
when the flower is at its best, or just before its ‘‘ blase ’’

Soe

GLOBULAR. HALF CUPPED.

development by sun and air, and that its true contour can
be most distinctively ascertained from a profile view, the
flower being held level with the eye, because then dif-
ferences can be most distinctively perceived.

PLANTING ROSES.

Roses may be planted at any time in the growing season,
because nearly all commercial rose growers on a large
scale have them in pots from which they can be trans-
ferred to the ground at any time without risk. In trans-
ferring roses grown in the open ground, of course early
Spring or Fall must be the time; but in our experience
some of the best rose beds—filled with blooms up to
Winter’s frosts—that we ever saw, were turned into the
ground from the pots in June.

116 ADDENDA.

GOOD ROSES NAMED,

Among the many good roses, let us name the following,
although there are many more perhaps equally good ; in-
deed, we suppose the first reader will accuse us of leaving
out one with which he is acquainted and that he thinks
best of all; but as we can’t print the whole list of many
hundreds, we must risk our list, knowing that all in it are
good.

Of Hybrid Perpetuals —Mademoiselle Jennie Maux is
a new one of bright rose color, large and of fine form.
Beauty of Waltham is a bright rosy crimson, very large,
and a free bloomer. Chas. Rouillard is of a bright rose
color, large and full, and a free bloomer. Francis Arago
is of a rich, velvety maroon. General Washington is a
brilliant rosy carmine, almost scarlet, also a free bloomer.
George Prince is of a dazzling red, tinged with rose.
Mademoiselle Bertha Seveque is a pure white, with a
shade or tint of rose color late in Autumn. Maurice Ber-
nardine is a brilliant vermillion, blooming in clusters.
President Lincoln is a dark red, with a crimson shade.
Panache d’Orleans is a white and rose color striped.

Of Bourbons. —Appoline is a light pink ; Blanche Lafitte
is flesh color; Decandole is purplish red ; Hermosa, rosy
blush ; Souvenir de Malmaison, clear, flesh color; Louis
Margottin a satiny rose color.

In Teas and China and Bengal Roses one can hardly go
amiss, for all are good, and each one you buy and flower
_ will beget a desire for another.

ADDENDA. LE7

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LAYERING ROSES.

This is a very simple and easy way of propagating
hardy roses; and the last of June is a good time to do it.
Select a good strong shoot that has just done flowering,
bend it over and see just where it will come when pegged
down, then excavate a little trench on the line four inches
deep; if the soil is clayey, scatter on the bottom of this
trench an inch of sandy loam, then bend down the branch,
fasten it with the peg a in sketch ; then take a sharp knife
and cut a notch on the upper side, 4, or make a long slit,
as you please ; but if you choose the latter, insert between
a bit of stick or a pebble stone; then bend up the shoot,
as shown in sketch, and fill in with sandy soil, pressing it
firm with your hand, but avoid treading for fear you will
break the layer.

The dirt being filled in around it, trim off the half mpe
wood and leaves, leaving about four to five of the strongest
and about as many inches of wood above ground; finally,
finish by scattering over and all around for a foot or more
a mulch of either new mown grass, straw, moss, etc., to
keep an even temperature and assist the root formation at

118 ADDENDA.

the point where you made the cut. The soil is warm, but
if you let the sun on strong, and a dry time comes, the
young roots that are naturally forced out of the plant will
decay.

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ADDENDA. 11g

Herewith we show an illustration of how a rose can be
trained to make a perfect rounded mass of bloom. ‘Two
to three inches of the main stem at the base have all the
buds nibbed out, and any suckers from the roots below
are destroyed. When the plant has made six inches of
growth pinch the ends of the upright shoots and throw
strength into the side branches. Continue this course as
the plant grows, and with many varieties the illustration
given will be overshadowed.

Ere we leave the roses let us say that where the Bour-
bons, Noisettes, Chinas, Teas, etc., are often winter killed
if left out in the open ground; that if they are taken up
ere there is two inches deep of frost in the earth, and
heeled in to a common hot-bed frame, then covered with
small brush and over that a covering of leaves, then boards
put over so that water will not come in, they will find the
roots of the plants in spring as good asnew. When plant-
ing out be careful to keep the roots from the air, and cut
the tops down to three or four inches from the crown of
the roots. All varieties are the better for being cut down
near the ground in early spring, then the leading shoots
pinched back from time to time and the faded flowers
picked off. Never refuse to give your friend a boquet of
roses if you do not cut the fresh opening buds. This re-
mark I acknowledge is a little out of my line, for I always
cut the faded roses and drop them on the ground, while
I put the buds and half blown ones into my friends hands.

Each year brings new varieties of roses, and while we
cannot give the whole list, we will here give a short list
of the latest and best new ones :

I20 ADDENDA.

May TuRNER—SZnglish Verdier. —A very hardy. Hy-
bred Perpetual rose of 1875; the foliage light greén ;
flowers large, full and of good form, of a delicate salmon-
rose, with the under surface of the petals of a deeper

shade. ,
REINE DES Masstrs—Zevet.—A vigorous new Noisette

rose of 1875. Flowers medium in size; fine salmon-yel-
low, sometimes coppery, magnificent; of a very free
blooming habit ; adapted for masses.

BERNARD. VERLOT — Eng. Verdier. — A Hybrid Per-
petual rose of 1875; the flowers large, full and finely
formed, in the way of Lord Raglan, but more globular ;
poppy red, the center shaded with violet-purple; very
hardy and well spoken of.

SHIRLEY HippERD—Zevet—A new Tea Rose of 1875
and quite new in color, being a handsome nankeen yel-
low. The flowers of medium size, full, of a flattish cup

form, and very freely borne.
ANTOINE Mouton —Zevet.—A Hybrid Perpetual Rose

of 1875; flowers very large and full, well formed, in the
way of Centifolia ; beautiful bright pink color, reverse of
the petals silvery ; plant vigorous; extra good. |

Mariz GuitLot —Guzllot Junior. —A new Tea Rose of
1875, vigorous in its habit of growth, clothed with hand-
some foliage of good substance. Superb, nearly white
flowers, just faintly tinged with a delicate shade of lemon.

Monsieur E. Y. Tras— Lng. Verdier —This Hybrid
Perpetual Rose is a large rose, the color deep cerise red,
bright and striking; of globular ahh full and well
formed.

ADDENDA. 121

Jean DucHEer— Madame Ducher.—A very vigorous
growing new Tea Rose of 1875, with large, handsome
and healthy foliage. It has proved to be a very free
bloomer ; the flowers are large, full and globular, salmon-
yellow, the interior shaded with peach color.

PERLE DE Lvon.—A magnificent rose, and a rival to
the celebrated Marechal Niel, The flowers are large, of
firm texture, and of a richer, deeper yellow than J/. Vze/,
holding on well; of exquisite shape and borne freely on
short shoots, as it is not of a running habit.

The following are new English varieties. All are Hybrid
Perpetuals, except Dutchess of Edinburgh :

CLIMBING JULES MARGOTTIN—Cvanston.—A sprot from
Jules Margottin ; flowers exactly similar to its parent; a
free and vigorous climber, branching freely. A great
acquisition as a free growing, perpetual climbing rose, of
handsome form and color, growing from eight to ten feet

in a season.

Crimson BEDDER— Crazston.—As a crimson bedding
rose this variety is said to surpass every other rose for
brilliancy of color and perpetual’ blooming ; its habit of
growth is moderate and the shoots short jointed, pro-
ducing a mass of flowers all over the bed from June till
November. Color, scarlet and crimson, very effective and
lasting; foliage, clean, glossy, and free from mildew.

Joun Stuart Miti— Zurner.—A fine flower of superb
form; of a bright, clear red color, very rich and distinct ;
large globular and very full. An excellent exhibition

22 ' ADDENDA.

flower and useful for garden decoration ; its constitution
is good and its habit of flowering free.

Miss Hassarp—TZurner.—In the way of Baronness
Rothschild and much better; the flowers are large, very
double, of a beautiful flesh pink, with petals of splendid
substance and delightfully fragrant. It is a vigorous grower
and a very desirable acquisition.

Rev. J. B. M. Camm— Zurner.—Very deep rose-pink
flowers, large and of a beautiful globular form and of
superb quality.; very sweet and constant. ‘‘In color,
form, and exquisite fragrance all that can be desired.’’

ROYAL STANDARD— Turner.— Flowers large, of a soft,
satiny-rose color, wonderfully full and exquisitely formed.

STAR or WaLTHAM— Wm. Paul.—Deep crimson, color
very rich and effective; a magnificent flower of immense
size, very double. Foliage very large, without being coarse,
of a rich dark green color, forming a beautiful contrast
with the flowers.

DucHEss OF EpInsuRGH —Veztch.—‘‘ This new Tea
Rose will make the eyes of Rosarians sparkle with de-
light.’’ Flowers, brilliant vermillion shaded with a rich
velvety maroon, very large indeed, and full in the highest
sense of the word. The foliage is handsome, of a rich
dark green color, and finely serrated.

ROSES IN POTS FOR HOUSE CULTURE.

Nearly all of the classes called Tea, or Bengal, are
adapted to the growing in pots, and kept in the ordinary
sitting room of the family. Duchess de Brabant, Bella,

ADDENDA. 123

Bon Silene, Saffrano, and Isabella Sprunt rank among the
best for this purpose. To make sure of having good
blooms in winter, the plants should have been grown in
pots during the summer previous, and not too much ex-
posed to the sun or the pots exposed, but either plunged
in the ground or wrapped with moss or grass and kept
cool. If during winter the green aphis gets upon the
plant, make some weak tobacco water, warm — not hot —
and dip the plants into them, immediately thereafter into
clean, soft, tepid water.

Hardy bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, Lilies,
etc., make up great beauty in a homestead, and they may
be planted, and as they grow in spring, flowers of Verdenas,
Petunias, Sweet Alysum, Aster, Balsam or Lady’s Slipper,
Carnation, Pinks of varieties, Clarkia, Sweet Pear, Helio-
trope, Lantana, Lychnis, Crocus, Narcissus, Nasturtium,
Phlox Drummondi, Portulacca, Salvia Tube roses and
Zinnias may be worked in to make up the beds of floral
beauty around the house.

And now we will say to our readers that the formation ©
for beds for flowering summer plants, such as Geraniums,
Petunias, Salvias, Herbaceous Peonias, equal in beauty
to Rhododendrons or Tree Pzonias, Phloxes, Chrysan-
theunms, Double Flowering Hollyhocks and Dahlias,
‘mingling with them many of the hardy perennials as the
Achillea, Aconitum, Aquilygea, Bocconia, Campanula of
many colors; Iris of over seventeen varieties; Liatris,
Sedums of more than twenty varieties and of great beauty
in a rough, rocky bed; Spirea,s Statice, Tritoma, Veroni-
cas, Vincas and Yuccas, that from these plants, oval beds

124 ADDENDA.

or diamond formed, or made from the shape of an oak or
maple leaf. Studying the subject quietly, and then in
preparing the bed make it four to six inches higher in the
center, and planting the strongest growing: plants and
deepest colored flowers in the center, toning out to the
border with low growing lhght colored flowers.

Again we will suggest that we make groups of Hardy
Deciduous Flowering Shrubs. Suppose our border be
oblong in form along the foot-path, or breaking the form
of a carriage road, let us use varieties of Altheas for the
center, surround. them with varieties. of Wiegelas ; then
again a belt of tree or upright Honeysuckles, then with
Lilacs mingled with the shrubby Hydrangeas, then here
and there a purple Magnolia and two or three varieties of
the Japan Quince; now two or three of Syrengas, and
then bound the whole with Spireas, Calycanthus and
Deutzias. |

So much for a group of Hardy Flowering Shrubs. Now
_ suppose we take a long oval bed of twenty by forty feet,
and count it a break from the front lawn, overlooked by
the windows and porches in front of the house. Suppose
we plant at each end of the oval a /uniperus, prostrata.
densata nana, repens, Squamata, Sabina alpina and Nipar-
tita - next back of them, or if you will, intermingled by one
who knows of their growth, Sadina Tamariscifolia, Sabina
variagata, Chinensis oblonga pendula, recuma, densa, Ree-
ves Rigila, Thurifera, Virginiana Pendula ; and next in
back of the foregoing to fill up the center, fore and back
ground—Adbres Excelsa Inverta, A. Excelsa Mucronata,
A. Excelsa Pygmaa, A. canadensis, A. canadensis nana,

ADDENDA. 125

A. canadensis microphylla, A. Pumila Nigra, Pinus stra-
bus nina, Thuia occidentalis pendula, Thuja Hoveyt, Thuja
Siberica, Thuja compacata, Thuja Pygmea, Pinus pumila,
Pinus Mugho, Pinus Mugho Rotundata, Pinus Cembra.
There is the grouping and filling of the whole shade from
the Euyonymus or Strawberry Tree, or Burning Bush as
it is variously called. The Berberry, Cornus or Dog-
wood, Forsythia, High Bush Cranberry, Japan Quince,
in varieties, mingled indiscriminately at distances of two
to four feet apart in the bed, and yearly pruned back to
keep a true yet graceful form.

In cemeteries or burial grounds, this grouping of low
growing evergreens, shrubs, suchas Deutzia Spirea, Weep-
ing Norway Spruce, and other low growing evergreen
shrubs, is far better than planting large growing trees
upon small lots. The large growing trees in a cemetery,
or a smalle house ground, should mainly be planted on

the road lines”.

LN DEX

A.
PAGE.
Np PlO—P Pama OCs 5 cao ce a) a) nascoh ork pore nt viates ola sie sles olen 25 to 28
TA ica fla: agape aed Opes atts Semen a Een Ce PRE N 65 to 76
How to grow from seed. sees sees eee eee we apatadl 9, 10
ELOW LO DUG OF PITAL. < gyseccleale. 6 ties Gace eyelsele see 14 to 22
with tables and list for latitudes,.............. 66 to 76
Apples Crab, alustratedsc. i. cic wcte's wisps + oils erie ahh Oe 74
CCLINALION -OUGN. 6 eic taeda Bikes os) Sate nie wet Ae oe re ee 96
Apricots, Be ee ae ene RSTO Huis: SARI pes RE Fes Yah Cale cane 83
B.
Budding—How to do it,....... Peel A Ae Aa ip tee RE Ogi: 14 to 17
BACK DOREION he chivas suse eomate cars oe cia eerie iene 59 to 61
best Ave: for Transplanting iors ceo o's ie ece ood s aeaice os pet i
BlaoOK URMOt, dees x52 Mei ao arae ne araeats te eeteue ioe eke pete tema 98
C.
Crm se aie rete oss tastes eae arenas ole eae ee efeaaee es emia 96 to 98
MOURA Aa) creeps ces este ain Nae el ieee 14, 21, 22, 30, 31, 33
Cherries, with table and descriptions,.................. 82 to 87
Cherres Tllustrated. 2.00 o 244) okies wo eieres op eis oe esate 88
G.
Gree bins Chche eRe eh io arcane ts ke ea antele tose Soaleien: eaten 13 to 22
Grane sua VErin ey 2 iis csc. o 6 Seinen c ate niate elie wien cee Aieraiales 23

Grape. Praming, 201655. akan Solas + eee rete nigel 30 to 34

INDEX. 127

PAGE.
Grape Planting,.......-..----. sce cece ee ee eee ee ce eens 35 to 37
Grapes—When and How to Prune,.......-.....++..+-. 37 to 40
Grape Trellis,....0 6.20. ... es eee eee e eee teen ees 43 to 45
H,
History and Value of Fruits,.........-.-- 6+ - cess ee eee 5
How to Grow from’ Seed)... 2. nee. cote seer eee sa ne 9
How to Prone the Grape, : i... 2.2 cs eee ecw sas stews 88 to 45
7 E
Het ETE Fa atch one Ae cet nel fh chatc ak shn lalate) ate sick wing es SER erage 96
1B
Latitudes, in every case refer to the apple,........... Set
N,
PRC EPIOR 2 tel elas Ae fect tiacclagers ow aie o/at'eraveint wet d Wisinasiate 89
Pp:
Peach, with table list of varieties, ./.........5-+-+++> 90 to 95
The table and list has been made with care and thought.
Pear, with table, history, origin, and value of varieties for
WATIOG SECtIONEy.. esc c es eee take sen eas ees 76 to 82
Paar dla etravedso...ccke © vace sla Se els ayo nce se enue o's ee a os 80
Plum, with history, insects, and table of discription,....95 to 108
Q.
Quince, description of values, modes of growing, etc.,. .108 to 106
R.
Raspberries, culture, descriptions, etc.,.......-+.------: 52 to 59
s.

Strawberries, varieties, culture, etc.,.....-.---++--> .... 46 to 52

128 INDEX—ADDENDA.

ADDENDA.
This portion of the Index is distinct from that on Fruits.
PAGE.
Bal Ds: sender’. Pisa y sos c else ae erence cose erence 123
Diwarl sOVeRereONs yn :.)satsioie! ls ice wanetate wis unten eles vl ele als 124 to 125
Decoration of cemetery lots,...............0 00 cece eee: 125
HonrermadOrnmentss..o¢ sa Coe-cchis Ue ee Od le alee 107 to 112
Mardy Bulbs varieties, ox. -\0iaic Rive accuses ee itis ais wig a 1286
erbaceous. PROMOS oc taei a <2, costes ais sels ee te ne peat 123
How to prepare the ground and form a bed,........... 123 to 124
Hardy BP lowering: Shrubsssco-o..s er cs ney oe. oe seis aes 124
Uns) a) 610] apace en ee ge StL ie SPR tre AS MO 112 to 118
AMgane yh aVed@l aX0/-13) Aa Nic Olen Anu a Ope eer recite Funan easement 113
OPTS OLROSECR aS eee fie teste bis xe Se Ark wae 114 to 115
Planting Roses,........... eben eele wens auch ts ere 115
COU TEVLOSER MIA IMIGGs Fe ic crates svete, cay sieextnde nite house aioe 116
PUY DEIC PET PSUS clown v5. seco elciaicxapetel ccc odo t atelege aha witle ars 116
OULDON Ss one. foce bois lars ic ia eee ee roe Oe ee 116
Mela TGC MING ey ieee nd sacra te ered oie enc hent crate chee cone otorees 116
Bip yerimg TROSGS s521532'015 5 )~ ici unperre oceha sens !ey'e ois ecinaacel cpemere lose weiepsy ar 117
Careing: for Roses im, Winter, «<1... 0-2 oe bee eo ais 119
Rare new PROBE rca Re Ba ese ark wae ck eee ee ta 119 to 122

Roses in pots for house culture,.......-...........00: 122

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