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LIBRARY
THE NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN
BRONX, NEW YORK 10458

HANDBOOK

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

ie) 10th PAE

THE

HANDBOOK

THE FLOWER GARDEN

GREENHOUSE.

BY

GEORGE GLENNY, FHS,

Author of “ The Properties of Flowers and Plants,” “Glenny’s Handbook to the Fruit
and Vegetable Garden,” “ Glenny’s Handbook to Practical Gardening,” “ Glenny’s
Catechism of Gardening ;” Editor of “Glenny’s Gardener's Gazette ;” and
Twenty-two years Conductor of “ Glenny’s Garden Almanac.”

THE FOURTH EDITION.

CAREFULLY REVISED WITH ADDITIONS.

LONDON:

W. KENT & CO. (tate D. BOGUBE), 86, FLEET STREET,
AND PATERNOSTER ROW..-

1859.

WINCHESTER:
PRINTED BY HUGH BARCLAY,
HIGH STREET.

PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION.

Tue third edition of this work presented such a total
change from the first two that it could hardly be recognised,
and at the eleventh hour I had merely an opportunity of
disclaiming all the alterations.

In revising the work for the fourth edition I have
removed nearly eighty pages which were taken from, and
belonged to, botanical dictionaries, and have restored much
that had been taken away to make room for matter not
original.

I have not disturbed the alphabetical arrangement,
although I have expunged the names of many genera and
species of no earthly use to the florist; for I consider the
work belongs to the popular flowers, and not to botanical
collections, besides which I have a thorough deep-rooted
aversion to copying from others.

I trust I have improved even upon the original edition,
and at least have the satisfaction of knowing it is all my
own.

® Gero. GLENNY.
FULHAM.

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INTRODUCTION.

Tue following short lessons for the cultivation of all the
popular flowers and plants will be acceptable to those who
grow a variety of subjects, and who have general garden
establishments. It* has always been my aim to avoid
mystery—to use the plainest and simplest way of doing every-
thing, from the mixing of the compost to the perfecting of
the plant. I differ from most of the previous writers on the
culture of many subjects, for I recommend nothing that is
difficult to obtain or offensive in its nature. I have, as far
as I could do so, made gardening a pleasure. 1 do not pre-
tend that the numerous plants and flowers mentioned here
are all that could be cultivated ; but I will say they comprise
the best, the most popular, and the least troublesome of all
our floral beauties, and few persons will desire a better col-
lection than may be found among the subjects in the present
work.

Some of the ordinary operations in a garden are described
at the beginning, that they may not have to be repeated in
treating of particular plants. I am thus enabled to say briefly,
‘Shift this, or prune that, or repot the other,” instead of going
over the same ground again when touching upon the numerous
plants, which, in fact, require the same treatment. Neverthe-
less, some of the most popular subjects have tempted me to
give particular directions, which are impressed upon the mind
of the grower by distinct lessons, simply because I know
many are apt to look for the article they require, and expect
to find all the necessary information under that one head.

GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF A GREENHOUSE.

A greenhouse is a structure for the protection of plants of
temperate climates, requiring in this country-but little arti-
ficial heat. In winter greenhouse plants should have an

Vill INTRODUCTION.

average day temperature of about forty-five degrees, and
thirty-six or eight at night. In very cold weather, however,
it is better to let the temperature stand at thirty-eight or
forty by day than to have recourse to much fire heat.
Under the same circumstances it is enough if the night
temperature is kept fairly above freezing point. The less fire
heat employed the better. If required, the growth of any
plants may be pushed on a little in February or March by
giving gentle fires in the early part of the day. In all the
mild weather of winter admit air freely by opening the
sashes, but not so as to cause a draught. In frosty, windy,
or foggy weather always avoid opening the greenhouse. As
spring advances give more and more air; but when the
growth is tender, especially avoid opening to cutting winds,
or so as to cause draughts: in such cases keep the windward
side closed, and open the other as wide as possible. A green-
house should never be shut up close when the sun is shining,
or when the external temperature is as high as forty degrees,
nor opened when it is frosty; and, so that this is observed,
the time of opening and shutting matters little. It is usual,
however, in winter to open as much as may be thought judi-
cious between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.; and in spring the house
is opened about 6, or 8, or 10 A.1z., and closed about 4 or 6
P.M., according to the state of the weather. In winter water
as seldom as possible, so that the soil never gets quite dry:
the same rule applies in summer, only then, instead of
seldom, the operation becomes much more frequent. |

GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF FRAME PLANTS.

In the case of frame or half-hardy plants, or plants requir-
ing less warmth than a greenhouse affords, the preparation of
the frame is a most important matter. The bottom should
be firm and impervious to water, so that it may be kept as
dry as possible; for which end it should slope in any one
direction, so that water spilt in watering the plants may run
into a gutter to be carried away outside the frame. The pots
should stand upon a trellis a few inches from the floor, and
this trellis is best made of narrow slips of wood placed a little
space apart. ‘The sashes should be removed from such plants

INTRODUCTION. 1X

whenever the temperature is as high as thirty-four or
five, except it be raining (in which case they must be kept on
to keep the plants dry), or the wind is very keen and nipping.
In these cases the sashes should be tilted in such a way as
to admit as little of the wet or wind as possible. As the
mild spring weather draws on, such plants as these require
no protection whatever: at that season they bear our climate.

THE STOVE, FORCING HOUSE, &c.

The art of forcing is to bring plants out of season; but as
we are treating on flowers, and the system is very easily
managed, a hint is enough. Always begin with a low tem-
perature, such as a greenhouse; and when the growth has
fairly begun, increase until you have given them sixty-five
degrees with impunity. If Roses were brought from the air,
and placed in a temperature of sixty-five degrees, they would
be spoilt; but bring them into forty degrees, and increase
five degrees a week, and they will bloom finely. Rhodo-
dendrons, Azaleas, and plants of all kinds may be gra-
dually brought to flower early; and when flowering is done
the plants should finish their growth without any check,
and then rest in the shade out of doors. Bring them into
the house again early: they will force better every year with
less heat and greater beauty, but they must be grown as
carefully after the bloom is over as they were in forcing, and
have plenty of water during the bloom and the subsequent
growth.

POTTING.

In potting plants always see first to a proper drainage at
the bottom. This may be secured by putting broken pots
one-fourth of the depth of the pot. In placing the plants in
the pots let the roots be free, and spread them round near
the surface rather than jam them close together. In shifting
plants from one pot to another have plenty of room all round
the ball of earth, to insure that the soil that is to be added
entirely surrounds the roots. When the space is limited, and
the soil cannot go down close and compact, the fibres at the

x INTRODUCTION.

side of the old ball lose their nourishment whenever they are
in the hollow. In pressing the soil down be careful not to
injure the fibres.

WATERING.

Water no oftener than is necessary, but do it effectually.
Never fall into a common error that a plant which requires
but little water is to have a small allowance each time. It
ought to have as much at each watering as will go through
every part of the soil, and no more till it is getting dry.
Remember that a plant may be starved for want of water,
and yet have twice as much as it requires: a little given
every day would not wet half an inch down the pot, and
three-fourths of the soil below would be quite dry. Some
plants require water once a day, some once a week, some once
a mouth; but whenever they do have it every grain of soil in
the pot should be wetted.

STRIKING CUTTINGS.

This is for the sake of propagating plants. Every part of
a plant contains the rudiments of every part of a new one,
and nature disposes it to perfect itself; that is, to make good
whatever may be its deficiencies. Therefore pieces of a plant,
the smallest sprigs or cuttings, placed under proper condi-
tions, will make root for themselves and become complete
plants. We are not, however, to suppose that the same
treatment must be given to all cuttings. The circumstances
under which one family of plants would form roots would
cause another to die. One great stimulant to the growth of
roots is bottom heat; that is to say, the soil should be a
little warmer than the atmosphere. Another is the exclusion
of air from the leaves. Generally speaking, the wood of
one season’s growth of all hard-wooded plants, with one
joint above the surface and one joint under the surface,
placed where there is bottom heat (that is, in a moderate
hotbed, or plunged in tan), covered over with a bell-glass
and kept moderately moist, will strike. Many plants, such
as Geraniums, Pansies, and other green or succulent subjects,

INTRODUCTION. xl

will strike if planted in a common border. But there are so
many requisites for the different kinds of plants, that we have
gone fully into the operation under some of the principal
subjects when describing the treatment of the plants.

LAYERING,

This is performed on many kinds of plants that do not
strike root very readily from cuttings. It is performed by
bending a shoot or branch down under the surface, and pegging
it there to prevent it from springing up again, leaving the
end exposed and turned upwards. Some plants will strike
root very readily when so pegged under ground, such as
Laurels, Hollies, Rhododendrons, Pyruses, Laurestinus, and
shrubs in general; but the operation is greatly facilitated
by intercepting the flow of sap in any way: for instance, by
notching the branch or shoot half way through, by twisting
the shoot, or, if it be of a tough nature, by bending it short,
so as to break the texture. It strikes root at that place where
the sap is thus intercepted. The branch should not be pegged
too deep, as the air is as necessary to it as the moisture, and
care must be taken always to keep the ground moist. The
most simple way is to cut a slit or to notch half through the
wood, and to let this notch be just under a joint or leaf.

GRAFTING.

This is the joining a small portion of one kind of plant to
the stem of another, which should be a stronger plant of the
same family. It is done for the purpose of propagating the
more scarce one, or, at least, making one and sacrificing the
other; so that in cases where only a small piece of a valuable
plant, that does not readily increase by cuttings, is obtainable,
the operation becomes an important one. We will suppose it
to be a Rose which may be grafted on a brier; or a variegated
or scarce Holly on a common green one; or a Daphne Indica
upon a Daphne pontica, or a Spurge Laurel; or a new variety
of any plant upon an old or common one. Cut the two—the
graft and stock—so that they fit as close as possible: never
mind about the plan of the fit, nor the size you are fitting it

xii INTRODUCTION.

on to. The barks of the two plants, that is to say, the edges,
must be close, and touch each other on one side at least; and
if the piece you put on is only a tenth of the size of the stock
you put it to, it will in time grow and cover all the rest.
Cut both with a sharp knife, and make them fit close; bind
them carefully and firmly; then cover with wax or clay to
keep the air away until they unite, and the graft begins to
grow, when the covering may be taken off, and afterwards
the tie may be removed. The time for grafting is when the
plant begins its growth for the season.

BUDDING.

This is performed when the leaves of plants have grown to
their full size, and the bud is to be seen plump at the base of
it. The relative nature of the bud and the stock is the same
as in grafting. Make,a slit in the bark of the stock, to reach
from half an inch to an inch down the stock, according to the
size of the plant; then make another short slit across, that
you may easily raise the bark from the wood. Next take a
very thin slice of the bark from the tree or plant to be
budded, a little below a leaf, and bring the knife out a little
above it, so that you remove the leaf and the bud at its base,
with the little slice you have taken. You will perhaps have
removed a small bit of the wood with the bark, which you
must take carefully out with the sharp point of your knife
and your thumb; then tuck the bark and bud under the bark
of the stock, which you carefully bind over, letting the bud
come at the part where the slits cross each other. No part
of the stock should be allowed to grow after it is budded,
except a little shoot or so above the bud, just to draw the sap
past the bud.

HANDBOOK

TO

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

te

ABELIA. ([Caprifoliacee.] A pretty, cool greenhouse
and half-hardy deciduous shrub, with long tubular blossoms.
Requires a greenhouse. The hardy sorts survive our mode-
rate winters in dry, sheltered situations on rockwork. Soil,
sandy loam, mixed with an equal quantity of turfy peat.
_Propagated by cuttings, planted in sandy soil; the tender
ones in a gentle heat, the hardy ones under a hand-glass.

ABIES. Sprucr Frr. [Pinacee.] Hardy evergreen or
deciduous trees and shrubs, growing in common soil, and
‘Increased by seeds and by grafting. A numerous family, but
A. Kempferi, A. Douglasit, A. Canadensis, A. excelsa Clan-
brasiliana, A. e. pygmea, are the best.

ABRONIA. [Nyctaginacee.] Pretty trailing plants, re-
‘quiring to be protected in a dry frame in winter. The
flowers are in heads like those of a Verbena. Soil, sandy
‘peat earth, intermixed with about a third part of decayed
vegetable soil. Propagated by cuttings, planted in sandy
soil, during the early part of the summer, or by seeds sown
in June. <A. pulchella and A. umbellata are generally culti-
vated.

ABUTILON. [Malvacee.] Stove and greenhouse shrubs,
with mallow-like flowers, mostly pretty. Soil, rough turfy
loam and leaf-mould, made sandy for the young plants. Pro-
pagated by seeds, or by cuttings in a mild heat. The species
are numerous, and make fine conservatory plants. A. venosum
entirely supersedes A. striatum, the flowers being larger; and
A. pictum grandiflorum is very much larger than venosum.

. B

Q GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

The flowers of both hang gracefully on long footstalks, are
yellow or orange ground, with scarlet veins. They grow better
in a stove than a greenhouse all winter; but they may be
planted in the open air in June, and make beautiful objects.

ACACIA. [Leguminose § Mimosew.] Greenhouse ever-
green shrubs, nearly all bearing yellow heads of thread-like
flowers, some round, some oblong, succeeded by a pea-shaped
pod. Soil, half loam and half turfy peat. The best young
plants are obtained from seeds sown in June in a frame or
greenhouse. Cuttings of the year-old shoots will strike freely.
‘To prepare them, cut the lower end close up to a joint; cut
clean off any leaves that are on the lower inch of stem, which
may be inserted into the soil, allowing another inch to be
above: they may be placed pretty close together, and a glass
covered over them. A propagating house or a moderate hot-
bed will hasten their striking, but they will strike in a cold
frame or in the greenhouse: they must always be shaded
from the heat of the sun. When they have struck root pot
them into three-inch pots, and as they advance check any shoots
that grow too vigorously by pinching off the tops. When
these first pots fill with roots, change to a larger size, and
continue to change as fast as they fill their present ones.
The young seedlings should be treated like the plants raised
from cuttings. They are fine conservatory plants. The
smaller sorts are manageable in pots; but they require
frequent shifting, and then soon get large. The genus is a
very extensive one, but the following are among the best :—
A. armata, A. dealbata, A. Drummondii, A. oxycedrus, A.
platyptera, and A. verticillata. Nearly all the varieties bloom
yellow, in spring.

ACACIA (Psreupo). See Rosita.

ACANTHOLIMON. Pricxry Turirt. [Plumbaginacen.]}
Dwarf hardy perennials, very pretty ornaments for rockwork.
Soil, sandy loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings of the
half-ripened shoots in a gentle heat. A. glumaceum, ever-
green ; flowers rose colour. )

ACANTHUS. Bear’s Brexcu. [Acanthaceew.] Hardy
herbaceous perennials, somewhat coarse, but of stately appear-
ance, the blooms being borne in a tall spike, white, and
purplish, protected by spiny bracts. They grow in any kind

TO THE FJ.OWER GARDEN. 3

of soil, and propagate most readily by division of the root.
A. spinosissimus has beautifully divided leaves.

ACER. Marie. [Aceracee.] Hardy trees and shrubs.
Common soil. Propagated by seeds and layers. ‘The best
are A. Creticum, A. Monspessulanum, and A. striatum.

ACHIMENES. [Gesneracez.] Stove tuberous-stemmed
herbs, which, if started about March, and grown on in a hot-
bed frame, will bloom tolerably well in a warm greenhouse.
They are very showy, the flowers having a narrowish tube
and a roundish five-lobed face. At the end of the blooming
season the flowering stems die down, and nothing is,seen but
the scaly tubers: these will keep better without moisture,
and placed on a dry shelf, but must be left in their pots
or pans. When they indicate growth, or at any season when
required, the tubers may be started either in the old soil,
and potted after they have grown an inch or two, or potted at
once, two or three in a pot, in a mixture of leaf-mould and
sand in equal parts. As soon as they grow they must be
well exposed to the light, otherwise they will become drawn.
They cannot be grown too dwarf, and this cannot be attained
if they are much shaded, or placed where they have not the
full light. The plants may be bloomed in a compost of leaf-
‘mould and turfy loam, equal parts, with sand intermixed.
They require perfect drainage, and want only shallow pots.
If great increase is required every scale of the tuber will form
a plant, if separated and lightly covered with soil, in a brisk
heat; but for ordinary purposes the tubers may be planted
whole. They strike freely from cuttings in a close frame.
Seeds may be sown in the spring, and pricked out as soon as
they are large enough, being potted into single ones and
changed to larger as they grow. Some persons bloom them
with only one shoot from the pot, and this is made to form
itself into a bushy plant by stopping it and encouraging
lateral shoots. Others put half a dozen tubers in a pot, and
this plan produces a complete thicket of branching shoots.
The following are distinct :—A. coccinea, scarlet; A. Leip-
mannu, rosy lilac; A. longiflora, blue; A. longiflora, white,
with red eye; A. picta, scarlet and yellow, the leaves beauti-
fully marbled. There are now numerous beautiful varieties
of Achimenes raised from seed.

4 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

ACIS. [Amaryllidaceze.] Hardy bulbs; small, but very
pretty. Soil, light sandy loam. Propagated by offsets from
the bulbs, which should be carefully separated, and planted
where they may not be disturbed.

ACONITUM. Monxsnoop. [Ranunculacee.] Hardy
perennials, with showy, curious, hood-shaped flowers. Soil,
any common loam. Propagated by parting the roots, which
is best done after the bloom declines in the autumn. Divide
the root into as many pieces as there are hearts to the plant,
with a portion of root to each, and plant them in nursery
beds, about a foot apart. The plants, however, need not be
parted for several years, for the larger they spread the more
showy they are. Once in three or four years is often enough
to disturb the plant, and even then, if it be too large, you
may cut away some all round to lessen it, without digging
the main plant up. <A. autumnale, flowers deep blue, in
autumn. A. ochroleucum, flowers yellowish white. A. varie-
gatum, flowers blue and white.

ACROCLINIUM. [Composite.] A beautiful half-hardy
annual. Sandy peat and loam. Seeds. This is one of the
most striking of the recently-introduced annuals. The flower
is very like that of Rhodanthe Manglesii, brighter, perhaps,
and more horny. It should be treated like Asters and Stocks
for out-of-door growth, and like Rhodanthe for pots. When
they are two inches high their tops should be pinched off to
induce lateral shoots. If sown in the open ground about the
middle of April, it grows about nine inches high, and the
blooms, which set on the tops of all the shoots, are seen to
advantage, whereas Rhodanthe hangs its head, and only shows
the backs of the flowers.

ACROPHYLLUM. ([Cunoniacee.] Pretty greenhouse
shrubs. Soil, sandy peat, with a fourth part free loam.
Propagated by cuttings of the half-ripe shoots. The only one
to grow is A. venosum, which flowers white, in June.

ADAMIA. [Hydrangeacex.] Stove shrubs, related to
Hydrangea. Soil, a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand. —
Propagated by cuttings placed in a gentle heat. A. cyanea,
flowers blue and white, and A. versicolor, blue.

ADAM’S NEEDLE. See Yucca.

ADDER’S TONGUE. See Oputoctossum.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 5

ADENANDRA. [Rutacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, with very handsome flowers, particularly A. fragrans,
pink, and A. speciosa, white and pink. Soil, turfy peat, mixed
with sand. Propagated by seeds, or by cuttings of the young
tops of the shoots, planted in sand under bell-glasses.

ADENOCARPUS. [Leguminose § Papilionacez.} Hardy
and greenhouse shrubs, allied to Cytisus: all handsome.
Soil, turfy loam, lightened by the addition of a third part
rotted leaves, and some sand, if the loam is not of open
texture. Propagated by cuttings, planted in sandy soil under
hand-glasses, or by layers, or by seeds. The best are
A. foliolosus, greenhouse shrub, flowers yellow; A. intermedius
and A. Telonensis, hardy shrubs, flower yellow.

ADENOPHORA. [Campanulacee.] Hardy herbaceous
‘perennials, allied to Campanula. Common soil. Propagated
readily by division.

ADESMIA. ([Leguminose § Papilionacee.] Green-
house shrubs, of somewhat trailing habit. Soil, a mixture
of loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings. The best are
A. Loudonia, A. microphylia, and A. viscosa, which flower
yellow. |

ADIANTUM. Mamenuatr. ([Polypodiacee.| Hardy
greenhouse or stove ferns, of very beautiful appearance, pos-
sessing in their fronds the remarkable property of repelling
water. Soil, turfy peat, mixed with silver sand, and contain-
ing the proportion of one-half of broken lumps of charcoal
and soft freestone or brick, of the size of nuts and walnuts:
the pots must be well drained. Propagated by division of
the plant, generally with facility. They require a damp, close
atmosphere, and therefore, if in an exposed situation, should
be kept under a hand-glass even in a greenhouse, the
‘ordinary climate of which is usually by no means damp
enough for ferns. The stove species require a house damp
and shady, as well as hot. A. affine, greenhouse evergreen ;
A. capillus Veneris, half-hardy evergreen; A. cuneatum,
greenhouse or stove evergreen; A. formosum, greenhouse
evergreen; A. hispidulum, greenhouse evergreen; A. pedatum,
half-hardy ; A. pubescens, greenhouse evergreen, are the
principal. A

ADLUMIA. [Fumariacee.] A climbing hardy annual,

6 GLENNY § HANDBOOK

bearing white flowers, not very handsome. It grows in
common soil, and is increased by seeds sown in the open
border about the end of March.

ADONIS. Pueasant’s Eye. [Ranunculacee.] Hardy
annuals and perennials, with pretty POppy- -like blooms.
Common garden soil.

fECHMEA. [Bromeliacese.] Stove herbaceous peren-
nials, increased by suckers, which may be planted singly in
pots of light, sandy, fibrous soil. They require a moist
atmosphere, and should be potted into a rough open compost
of fibry loam and peat earth, or leaf-mould not too much
decayed. 4. discolor, flowers scarlet and black. 4. fulgens,
flowers scarlet and purple.

ZEGOCHLOA. [Polemoniacee.] Dwarf hardy annuals,
nearly allied to Gilia, and requiring the same management.

ZLONIUM. See Sempervivoem.

AESCHYNANTHUS. BtusHuwort. [Gesneracez § Cyr-
tandree.] Stove trailing sub-shrubby plants, usually epiphy-
tal; all very ornamental, having flowers of a curved tubular
form, and richly coloured. They require a damp hot atmo-
sphere, and very light, open, or turfy soil of a peaty nature ;
and, if grown in pots, they must be thoroughly drained with
potsherds. They grow exceedingly well if planted in rustic
baskets among turfy peat soil, and suspended from the roof
of the hothouse. All the species in their natural state grow
on the branches of the trees of tropical forests, and not in
the ground. Propagated readily by cuttings. The principal
are 44. grandiflorus, orange; A’. Lobbianus, scarlet; AL.
pulcher, scarlet ; AZ. ramosissimus, orange ; A‘. speciosus,
orange.

f&SCULUS. Horst Cuestnur. [Sapindacee.] Hardy
trees, handsome both in flower and leaf. Loamy soil. Pro-
pagated by seeds or by layers. 4. hippocastanum and
several of its varieties, and 4. rubicunda, are worth a place in
large establishments.

ZETHIONEMA. ([Crucifere.] Hardy annuals and
perennials, adapted for rockwork. Common light soil.
Propagated by cuttings planted in summer, or by seed sown
in May. A. membranaceum, hardy perennial ; flowers lilac,
in June.

~t

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN.

AFRICAN MARIGOLD. See Taceres EREcTA.

AGAPANTHUS. Arrican Liny. ([Liliacee.] Green-
house perennial herbs. These very handsome plants are
much neglected, because they happen to be capable of living
and flowering with very ill usage. It is propagated by
separating the young suckers, that in time would fill the pot
and starve the old plant. Hence we see this plant in all
places nearly or quite pot-bound, in consequence of which
the flowers are small and not brilliant. The suckers should
be placed in pots large enough to take all the roots without
cramping, in soil composed of loam one-half, decomposed
dung one-quarter, and leaf-mould one-quarter, well mixed.
Shift into larger pots as often as the roots become numerous,
and the instant suckers appear let them be broken off. With .
this treatment the flower-stem thrown up will be strong, the
flowers large; and the plant thus grown forms one of the
most noble objects in the garden or conservatory in the
month of August. The species merely differ as to their size
and the time of flowering ; they are all worthy of cultivation.
They may be raised from seed by sowing it as soon as it
ripens, and starting it in a hotbed; the seedlings, when well
up, removed to the warm part of a greenhouse, and when
grown enough pricked out into small pots, and treated as
young offsets. A. umbellatus, flowers blue. The varieties
albidus, with white flowers, and variegatus, with variegated
leaves and blue flowers, are distinct and pretty.

AGATH AIA. [Composite.] Greenhouse sub-shrubby
plants, useful for the summer decoration of the flower garden.
Good garden soil, or loam and leaf-mould. Propagated freely
by cuttings in August or February, the young plants being
kept in a frame or greenhouse, and planted out in May. A.
calestis, flowers pale blue, and A. linifolia, flowers blue, all
summer.

AGATHOSMA. [Rutacewe.] Greenhouse shrubs. Soil,
turfy peat mixed with sand. Propagated by cuttings of the
tops of the young shoots in sand under bell-glasses. A.
ambigua, flowers white. A. imbricata, flowers pink. A. villosa,
flowers violet.

AGAVE. [Amaryllidacez.] Greenhouse succulent peren-

nials, often very large, requiring to be kept dry and from

8 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

frost during winter. Soil, half loam, a fourth of rotten dung,
and a fourth brick rubbish or broken flower-pots. Propagated
by suckers. The American Aloe is an aristocratic-looking
plant, often seen in pairs before the villas round the metro-
polis, and is said to bloom once in a hundred years, which is
a popular delusion: it, in fact, blooms but once. It is
always treated as a greenhouse plant, and nobody cares about
its flowering, because that finishes its career. There is
hardly a more noble-looking plant; but the flower is more
curious than beautiful. The flower-stem grows fifteen or
twenty feet high, and throws out horizontal branches, full of
yellowish-green flowers, which stand upright. The plants,
fully grown in adequate tubs, look truly noble. They should
have plenty of room in the greenhouse, and be out on the
lawn from May to October. The principal one is A. Americana
(American Aloe), flowers greenish. The variegated - leaved
variety is a distinct and pretty object. There are many other
species.

AGERATUM. [Composite.] Hardy or half-hardy an-
nuals, of which A. Meaicanum or odoratum alone is worth
growing. Light rich soil. Propagated by seeds, which
should be sown in March in a warm frame, and pricked out
and hardened for planting out in May. A later bloom may
be obtained by sowing in April in the places where they are
to bloom, the plants being thinned to give them room after
they come up. In beds they should not be less than six
inches apart.

AGONOSMA. [Apocynacee.] Hlegant stove climbing
shrubs. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings
ina brisk heat. <A. caryophyllata, flowers pale yellow. 4.
Roxburghit (Roxburgh’s), flowers straw colour.

AGRIMONIA. Acrimony. [Rosacew.] Hardy herba-
ceous perennials. Common soil. Propagated by division.
A. odorata and A. suaveolens, flower yellow, in July.

AGROSTEMMA. [Caryophyllaceze.] Hardy perennials,
with Lychnis-like flowers. They should be planted in a pre-
pared rich loamy soil, and are increased by division. The
Rose Campion is best treated as a biennial, fresh plants being
annually raised about May for the next year’s flowering.
They grow readily in ordinary garden soil. A. Bungeana,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. d

flowers scarlet. A. coronaria, flowers rose or white, single,
or double. A. flos Jovis, flowers red, in July.

AIROPSIS. [Graminacee.] Hardy annuals or peren-
nials. Light loamy soil. Propagated by seeds. <A. pulchella
is one of the few grasses which may be considered ornamental.

AJUGA. Buete. ([Labiate.] Hardy perennials or
annuals, the latter of little interest in gardens: some of the
former are neat plants for damp rockwork, or for flower-
borders in a cool situation. Common damp garden soil.
Propagated by division. A. alpina, flowers blue, in May.
A. reptans, flowers blue, in May and June.

AKEBIA. [Lardizabalaceew.] A slender greenhouse or
half-hardy climbing shrub, with elegant foliage. Soil, rough
turfy peat and sandy loam. If kept in a pot it must have
one of considerable size. Propagated by cuttings planted in
sand, and placed under a hand-glass or in a mild hotbed
frame. A. quinata, flowers pinkish lilac.

ALBUCA. ([Liliaceew.] Greenhouse bulbous plants.
Soil, sandy loam and peat. Propagated by offsets or suckers.
Most of them may be grown in a sheltered border at the foot
of a wall or building.

ALISMA. Warer Pranratn. ([Alismacee.] Hardy
water plants. The plants may be planted in the muddy soil
of the margins of ponds or lakes, or potted into large pots,
and the pots set into water deep enough to cover them.
Propagated by seeds or division of the roots. A. lanceolata,
flowers pinkish white, in July. A. plantago, flowers blush,
in July. A. ranunculoides, flowers purplish, in August.
Britain.

ALLAMANDA. [Apocynacee.] Beautiful stove climb-
ing shrub, with brilliant yellow flowers, as large as a convyol-
vulus. Soil, two-thirds loam and one-third peat. Cuttings
strike well in sandy soil under a bell-glass, with slight bottom
heat, and they may be potted off as soon as they are rooted
into three-inch pots; and, as these become filled with roots, they
may be shifted to others of a larger size. The plant, being
inclined to ramble, is best treated as a climber; but it may

be treated as a shrub by stopping the ends of the branches
while short, and so encouraging lateral shoots... A. neriifolia
is of a more shrubby habit than the others, A. cathartica,

|

10 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

flowers yellow. <A. grandiflora, flowers clear yellow. A.
Schottii, flowers orange yellow, in July.

ALLIUM. Gartic. ([Liliacee.] Hardy bulbs. Good
loamy soil. Propagated by offsets.

ALLOSORUS. Rock Braxn. [Polypodiacee.] A
pretty little tufted parsley-like hardy fern, growing naturally
on rocks, and therefore well adapted for rockwork, called A.
erispus.

ALMOND. See Amyepatus.

ALOE. ([Liliacez.] Curious succulent greenhouse plants,
many of them handsome; greatly varied in their habit, as
well as in the colour of their flowers, which all come in
spikes, the blooms being tubular. Some have the leaves
variegated, some all over spines, others covered with pearly
skins, some rough, others smooth, but all highly interesting.
Soil, loam and leaf-mould in equal parts, mixed with sand, or
pounded brick, or granulated charcoal, in the proportion of
one-sixth. The pots must be one-third filled with crocks for
drainage. Propagated by suckers or offshoots, which should
be taken off while young, to prevent their weakening the
parent, unless, as in the case of the tufted-growing sorts,
they are grown to fill a pot. The suckers must be put into
small pots, and shifted from time to time. The plants should
have very little water in winter. The species are numerous.
We select a few of the most distinct. (See also Apicnra,
Haworruta, and Gastertia.) A. acuminata, flowers orange
red, in June. A. albo-cincta, flowers orange-coloured, in
June. A. glauca, flowers red, in June. <A. saponaria, flowers
red, in July. A. suberecta, flowers red, in April. A.
variegatia, flowers salmon-coloured, in May.

ALONSOA. [Scrophulariacee.] Greenhouse or half-
hardy evergreen sub-shrubs, with pretty scarlet flowers.
Soil, sandy loam and leaf-mould, equal parts. Propagated by
seeds sown in March in a hotbed, the seedlings pricked out
when large enough, and by the end of April potted separately
into small pots, and then hardened off in cold frames for
planting out. Cuttings planted in sandy soil, and put ina
hotbed in spring, should be treated in the same way as soon
as they are rooted: during summer they will root freely under
a hand-glass on a shady border. For pot blooming, strong

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. it

young plants should be selected in March, and shifted into
larger pots as they grow, the stronger branches being stopped
to make the plants bushy: they should be grown in a green-
house or a well-glazed frame. The plants require plenty of
air, and to be kept from frost in winter. A. acutifolia, flowers
scarlet. A. incisifolia, flowers scarlet. A. linearis, flowers
scarlet. A. Warczewiezii, scarlet and yellow.

ALOYSIA. [Verbenacez.} Half-hardy deciduous shrub,
with a beautiful lemon-like fragrance. It is usually kept in
pots in the greenhouse, and forced for the sake of sprigs for
cutting in spring, as an addition to bouquets. The plant is
hardy at the foot of a wall; at least, if the branches are
killed down by frost in winter, they are renewed from the
root in summer. Soil, rich garden mould, or, for pots, sandy
loam and leaf-mould. Propagated freely by cuttings. The
only one cultivated is A. citriodora.

ALSTROSMERIA. [Amaryllidacee.|] Half-hardy fleshy-
rooted perennial herbs, producing very ornamental flowers.
The species and numerous varieties, almost without exception,
grow freely on a warm border at the foot of a wall, if the
surface is slightly covered in winter, although many of them
have been called stove plants. Soil, deep rich loam. The
roots should be planted six or eight inches deep, and must be
kept moist while growing: they require some kind of
support as they push up their stems. Propagated by seeds,
which should be sown in pots thinly as soon as ripe, and
kept ina frame, the young plants being carefully protected
from frost. The second season they may be planted out.
They are also increased by separating the bundles of fleshy
roots, which are furnished with crowns or growing buds at
their upper end. They may be grown in pots, in rich sandy
loam, the roots being planted while dormant at once into the
blooming pots, which should not be less than a foot in
diameter, and should contain several plants. A. caryophyllea,
often called A. ligtu, is a stove perennial, and is cultivated
in the same way, only it requires stove heat. It, as indeed
all the kinds, should be dormant, and kept moderately
dry in winter. (See also Bomarza.) The varieties are very
numerous. :

ALTHAA. Marsh Mattow. ([Malvacee.] Hardy

12 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

annuals, biennials, and perennials, but, excepting the Holly-
hocks (A. rosea and ficifolia), of little horticultural import-
ance. Common garden soil. Propagated, the annuals and
biennials by seeds, the perennials by division of the root.

Althea rosea (Hollyhock.)—The Hollyhock is a noble
flower, and the varieties are becoming so numerous and so
much improved that it is an established favourite. It is
raised from seed, and multiplied by parting the roots—the
former to produce new varieties, the latter to propagate
old ones. In autumn the old plants must be dug up and
parted, each heart being separated with a portion of root to
it. These are to be planted out in a nursery bed one foot
apart, or they may be planted at once where they are to
bloom. They will stand three years, or even more, if a large
plant and a number of spikes of flower be the object. Even
in parting them they need not be divided into single hearts,
unless increase is desired. Choice varieties may be increased
by cuttings of the flowering stems, every leaf, with a portion
of the old stem containing a bud, being capable of forming a
plant if treated asa cutting. They are best planted at the
back of borders, or in the midst of shrubs, the plants being
in no way interesting; but the flower-spikes, which are pro-
duced at the upper part of the stem, are very noble objects.
The variety of colour afforded by this plant is now consi-
derable, and some varieties are very rich and distinct: they
bloom from the latter part of July to September. For
varieties of Hollyhock consult the newest trade catalogues.
For exhibition the plants are grown in an open situation, and
are topped at the height they are required. When they are
coming into flower they are freely moistened with liquid
manure instead of water. The buds are thinned out so that
the flowers shall not be too close, and shaded from the
extreme heat of the sun. The garden varieties now amount
to some hundreds.

ALYSSUM. Mapworr. ([Crucifere.] Dwarf hardy
perennials er sub-shrubby plants, with cruciferous flowers.
A. saxatile is very suitable for rockwork, or the front part of
a flower-border, and forms a beautiful spring-blooming bed
in the flower garden: it is increased by cuttings. Good
garden soil. The herbaceous species are propagated by divi-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 13

sion; the sub-shrubby ones by cuttings. Vigorous two-year-
old plants are the best for blooming; the others are unim-
portant. The plant commonly called Sweet Alyssum is not
of this genus ; it is the Koniga maritima.

AMARANTHUS. Amaranto. [Amaranthacer.] Hardy
and half-hardy annuals, sometimes showy from the large
masses of rich-coloured flowers, as in A. caudatus, in which
they droop, and A. hypochondriacus, in which they grow erect ;
sometimes grown for the curiously-coloured foliage, as in
A. tricolor. Soil for the hardy sorts, rich garden mould:
these are propagated by seeds sown in the open borders in
April, the young plants thinned out to six inches apart. The
tender sorts require a light and highly-manured soil—equal
parts light loam, leaf-mould, and decayed manure; and must
be sown in a hotbed in March, and nursed on till the end of
May, and then planted out in sheltered places, or grown on
in pots along with Balsams, Cockscombs, &e. A. bicolor.
half-hardy annual; foliage red and green. A. caudatus
(Love-lies-Bleeding), hardy annual; flowers deep crimson.
A. tricolor, half-hardy annual; foliage green, yellow, and
red.

AMARYLLIS. [Amaryllidacere.] Half-hardy bulbous
plants, producing flowers and leaves at different periods, the
flowers very handsome. Soil, rich deep loam. Plant six
inches deep in a sheltered and well-drained situation, as at
the foot of a south wall. Propagated by seeds, which should
be sown thinly in pots, in a frame, as soon as they ripen,
and after the second year transplanted. (See also Brunsvicta,
Hippeastrum, Neris®, Vatuora.) A. Banksiana, green-
house bulb; flowers pink. A. belladonna, half-hardy bulb;
flowers rose and white. A. pallida, half-hardy bulb; flowers
pale blue.

AMBERBOA. [Composite.] Hardy annuals. Rich gar-
den soil. Propagated by seeds sown in the open borders in
March and April. A. moschata, flowers purple lilac. A.
suaveolens, flowers yellow.

AMELANCHIER. [Rosacex.] Small deciduous trees
or shrubs. Common garden soil. Propagated by seeds,
layers, or by grafting on the hawthorn. -_ A. botryapium
(Snowy Mespilus), flowers white, in spring.

14 GLENNY S$ HANDBOOK

AMERICAN COWSLIP. See DoprcarHeoy.

AMETHYSTEA. A pretty hardy annual. The seeds
should be sown in light peaty soil, covered slightly, and
thinned when they come up. A. ca@rulea, flowers blue.

AMICIA. [Leguminose.}| A warm greenhouse shrub,
with papilionaceous flowers. Soil, sandy loam and peat:
plenty of root room. Propagated by cuttings in heat.

AMMOBIUM. ([Composite.] Half-hardy herbaceous
perennials. Soil, common garden mould. Propagated by
seeds, which are to be sown in July, the plants preserved in
frames during winter, and planted out about April. A. alatum
and A. plantagineum, flower white.

AMMYRSINE. [Ericaceee.] Pretty dwarf hardy ever-
green shrubs, better known under the name of Ledum. Soil,
peat. They should be planted in a sheltered situation. Pro-
pagated by layers. The principal varieties grown are
A, buxifolia and A. prostrata.

AMORPHA. Basrarp Inpico. [Leguminose.] Deciduous
shrubs, with papilionaceous flowers, hardy, or nearly so, some
of them requiring the protection of a mat-covering in winter.
Common garden soil. Propagated by layers. The best are
A. fragrans and A. fruticosa.

AMPELOPSIS. [Vitacee.] Hardy deciduous climbing
shrubs. The Virginian Creeper (A. hederacea) is one of the
best of all plants, not evergreen, for covering a large space
of bare wall or fence, thriving in the most confined situa-
tions : in autumn the leaves assume a rich crimson tint.
Common garden soil. Propagated by layers or cuttings.
A. hederacea (Virginian Creeper), hardy climbing shrub, is
the principal one grown.

AMPHICOME. [Bignoniacee.] An elegant greenhouse
or half-hardy perennial, bearing Pentstemon-like blossoms.
Soil, sandy loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings planted
in sandy soil, and placed in a mild heat, or by seeds.
A. arguta, flowers pale rosy lilac.

AMYGDALUS. Atmonp. [Rosacez.] Small deciduous
shrubs and flowering trees. The double-flowered varieties
are particularly beautiful. All grow freely in good, loamy,
well-drained garden soil. Propagated by budding on plum
stocks, the shrubs by transplanting the suckers, or by

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 15

layering. The following are best:—A. communis, hardy
tree, flowers pink; A. nana, hardy shrub, flowers pink;
A. pumila (double dwarf), hardy shrub, flowers red; and
some recently imported from China are beautiful for pot
culture.

ANACAMPSEROS. [Portulacacee.] Small succulent
sreenhouse plants. Soil, sandy loam, with one-third pounded
bricks; the pots one-third filled with drainage. Very little
water in winter. Propagated by cuttings, kept rather dry
until they have rooted. A. arachnoides, A. filamentosa, A.
lanceolata, and A. rotundifolia, all of which have pink
flowers.

ANADENTIA. ([Proteacez.] Neat greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, allied to Grevillea. Soil, peat and loam. Propagated
by cuttings in sand under a bell-glass. A. Manglestc and
A, pulchella, flower yellowish, in May.

ANAGALLIS. Privprernen. [Primulacee.] Hardy and
half-hardy slender annuals and herbaceous perennials, of
prostrate habit. The hardy annuals are sown in March or
April in the open border, and are propagated by seeds. The
half-hardy sorts are increased by cuttings, planted in March
in hotbeds, or in July or August under a hand-glass, and,
when potted off, should be grown in three parts loam and
one part peat, and preserved during winter in a dry frame or
greenhouse. They are all well suited for beds and borders in
the flower garden. The best are A. Indica, hardy annual,
blue. A. Monelli, half-hardy perennial, blue. Of this there
are several distinct varieties.

ANAGYRIS. [Leguminose.] Coarse greenhouse shrubs,
with papilionaceous flowers. Soil, loam and peat. Propa-
gated by cuttings in sand, under glass.

ANARRHINUM. ([Scrophulariacee.] Pretty hardy
biennials, allied to Antirrhinum. Common garden soil.
Increased by seeds, which should be sown in July for next
year’s blooming plants. They may be propagated by cuttings.
A. fruticosum and A. pubescens, flower white, in July.

ANCHUSA. Buctoss. ([Boraginacee.}] Fine herba-
ceous plants, mostly perennial; some biennial and annual.
The perennial kinds grow freely in common garden soil, and
are increased by division. The annual and biennial kinds are

16 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

best sown where they are to bloom in the open border, as -
they do not transplant well. The Cape species should be
sown in pots about July, and kept through the winter ina
dry frame or greenhouse. ‘The soil for these should be sandy
loam. The best are A. Capensis, greenhouse biennial, flowers
blue. A. Milleri, hardy annual; flowers pink. A. ochroleuca,
flowers pale yellow. A. paniculata, hardy perennial ; flowers
blue. A. tinctoria (alkanet), perennial; flowers purple. A.
Italica, blue.

ANDERSONIA. [Epacridacee.] <A pretty greenhouse
evergreen bush. Soil, sandy peat. Propagated by cuttings
of the tips of the young shoots in sand under a bell-glass.
A. sprengelioides, flowers pink, in May.

ANDROMEDA. [Ericacee.] Beautiful evergreen
shrubs, principally hardy, but a few requiring a greenhouse
or stove: these latter are unimportant. Soil, good rich
moist peat, or peat with a third part loam. They are best
propagated from layers, put down in September, and taken
off the following autumn. The seeds are very small, and
require to be sown as soon as ripe, very lightly covered, and
set in acool close frame; but this is too tedious a process
except with very rare kinds. Perhaps A. floribunda may be
set down as one of the most useful of all dwarf shrubs ; for,
hke the Laurestinus, it looks well from the time the bloom-
buds first appear till they are dead, and that comprises one-
half the entire year. (See also Cassiopz, ZENoBia.) A.
(Leucothoe) acuminata, flowers white. A. (Leucothoe)
Catesbei, flowers white. A. (Leucothoe) floribunda, flowers
white. A. polifolia, flowers pink. North America, 1790.

ANDROSACE. [Primulacee.] Elegant alpine plants,
related to the primroses, the hardiest of them well adapted
for sheltered rockwork, and all very interesting, grown in
pots. Soil, sandy peat and light turfy loam in about equal
proportions. Their greatest risk is from excess of moisture
about the crowns or roots; and, from the dampness of our
winters, they are much more liable to suffer injury than from
the degree of cold. They ought to be kept in small pots, very
well drained ; and, in the application of water, great care is
necessary at all seasons, but especially in winter. In our
summers they require a cool situation. The perennial,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 17

biennia land annual species require the same kind of treat-
‘nent, differing only in the mode of propagation, which in
the perennials is by division, and. in the others by seeds.
A. carinata, hardy perennial, flowers yellow. A. lactea, hardy
perennial, flowers white. A. lanuginosa, frame perennial,
flowers rosy lilac. A. maxima, hardy annual, flowers white.
A. septentrionalis, hardy annual, flowers white. A. villosa,
hardy perennial, flowers pink. .

ANDROSAMUM. Torsan. [Hypericacee.] A woody-
stemmed herbaceous perennial, forming a pretty under- growth
in shrubberies, and growing readily under trees. Common
soil. Increased by “dividing the tufts of the roots. A.
officinale, flowers yellow.

ANEMONE. Winpriower. [Ranunculacee.] Showy
hardy herbaceous perennials, many having tuberous roots.
Soil, light rich loam. Propagated by offsets, or by division
of the plants, or by seeds, the latter being sown in July to
obtain blooming plants for the next year. A. Japonica, a fine
autumual-blooming kind, makes a fine bed, and is propagated
by every little fragment of its roots, these being thickly set
with little buds or budlets. Some of the smaller-growing
spring kinds are very pretty if grown in large patches, or to
plant about in shrubberies: these propagate by separating
their tubers when in a dormant state.

The florist’s Anemone, A. coronaria, is imported in large
quantities from Holland, grows very dwarf, and comprises
many varieties of colour, in which blue, red, purple, white,
may be found in all their shades. The tubers should be
planted three inches deep, and six inches apart, in good loam
from a rich pasture; and, if this be not at hand, Jet some
well-decomposed cowdung be mixed with the common earth
of the garden. The single and semi-double ones may be
raised with the greatest ease from seed, which, as it forms a
, if not watched as it approaches
ripeness, will be blown away. Rub the seeds with a little dry
sand, to separate them from each other ; sow them thinly on
a four-feet bed, neatly dug and levelled; rake them in that
they may be well covered, and nothing more need be done
till they are large enough to handle; then, wherever they
are too thick, thin them, leaving the bed with plants at

c

18 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

three inches apart all over. Plant those you remove at the
same distance on another piece. A. Apennina, flowers blue,
in March. A. Caroliniana, flowers white, in May. A. coro-
naria, flowers various, in April. A. hortensis, flowers rose, in
April. A. Japonica, flowers rose, in September. A. palmata,
flowers yellow, in May. A. pavonina, flowers red, in April.
A. Pennsylvanica, flowers white, in May. A. pulsatilla,
flowers purple, in April. A. vernalis, flowers white, in April.
A. vitifolia, flowers white, in September. There are many
other species, all more or less desirable.

ANGELONIA. [Scrophulariaceze.] Soft-wooded peren-
nials. Elegant stove plants, bearing their showy flowers in
long spikes. The leaves of most of the species have a
fragrant musky scent. Soil, peat and light rich loam. They
require, when established, plenty of pot room, and a good
share of water when growing, but the pots must be well
drained. Propagated by cuttings, which root very readily
in sandy soil, placed in a close frame, with moderate heat.
The young plants should be frequently stopped to induce a
bushy habit. A. angustifolia, flowers purple, in July. A.
grandiflora, flowers purple, in July; and there is a pretty
scarlet variety.

ANIGOZANTHOS. [Hemodoraceex.] Greenhouse peren-
nial herbs, with sword-shaped leaves and tubular flowers,
remarkable for their velvety exterior surface. Soil, turfy
peat and loam, three parts of the former to one of the latter,
intermixed with enough sand to make it porous. In the
growing season they must be well watered, but must be
rather dry in winter. Propagated by division of the plant.
The best are A. coccinea, crimson ; A. flavidus, yellow; A.
Manglesti, green and red; A. pulcherrimus, yellow; A. rufus.

ANISANTHUS. [Iridacee.} Showy greenhouse bulbs.
Soil, deep sandy loam. Propagated by offsets.

ANISEED TREE. See Inticrum. :

ANQCACTOCHILUS. ([Orchidacee.] Stove perennial
herbs. This is one of the groups of vegetation in which
insignificance, so to speak, in the blossoms is more than
compensated by the beauty of the leaves, the surface of
which has the appearance of the richest velvet, overcast
as it were with a network of brilliant metallic colours. The

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 19

flowers are white and inconspicuous. These plants require
the hot, moist, shady climate of an orchid house. . They
should be potted in wide shallow pots, among turfy fragments
of peat, sphagnum moss, and potsherds, and grow most
vigorously if kept usually covered with a bell-glass, which
should, however, be tilted a little every day, to prevent their
being destroyed by accumulated damp. Increased by division.
A. setaceus has leaves of a very dark velvet green, marked
with a meshwork of gold-coloured netted veins. A. Lobbi has
leaves similar to A. setaceus, with the addition of a broad
stripe of gold colour down the centre, and is, perhaps, the
same as sometimes bears the name of pictus No. 1. ‘To these
may be added A. argenteus, A. Lowi, A. striatus, A. xantho-
phyllus—all grown for the beauty of their foliage.

ANOMATHECA. [Iridacee.] Pretty half-hardy bulbous
perennials. Soil, light rich loam. Propagated readily by
seeds or by offsets. A. cruenta, planted out in a bed, makes
a pretty show, the bloom lasting till September. The seed
should be sown in wide-mouthed pots or seed-pans very
thinly, and if they come up too thick they must be thinned.
The next season they may be planted four or five in a pot,
and the following year they may be bedded out in spring, and
the bulbs either taken up in autumn, or protected against
frost. The bulbs will live through the winter at the foot of
a wall, and spring up early, producing a very pretty effect.
A. cruenta, flowers scarlet. A. juncea, flowers lilac.

ANOPTERUS. [Escalloniacee]. A greenhouse evergreen
shrub. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings
under a bell-glass in heat.

ANTENNARIA. [Composite]. Small hardy and _half-
hardy herbaceous perennials. The smaller kinds are suitable
for pot culture in a collection of alpines. Soil, sandy, loamy.
Propagated by division. The best are A. alpina, flowers
pink ; A. Carpatica, flowers pink; A. plantaginea, flowers
white ; A. triplinervis, flowers white.

ANTHOCERCIS. [Solanacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, light loam and leaf-mould. Cuttings strike
freely in sand under a bell-glass, with a mild bottom heat.
After they are struck they should be potted in the smallest-
sized pots, and as soon as they begin to.grow the tops must

20 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

be pinched off to induce lateral shoots. Shift them when the
pots get filled with roots; as they grow, continue stopping
the most vigorous shoots, both for the sake of keeping the
specimen within bounds, and to induce side-shoots, for the
blooms come towards the end of all the shoots. The best are
A. albicans, flowers white; A. ilicifolia, flowers yellow,
purple, and green.

ANTHOLYZA. [Iridacew.] Showy half-hardy bulbs.
If planted deep, beyond the influence of ordinary frosts, they
will live through the winter in warm, dry, sheltered situations.
Soil, deep sandy loam. They require merely to be planted
out, and left undisturbed for several years. Increased by
offsets. A. Athiopica, greenhouse bulb, flowers scarlet, in
May. A. prealta, flowers orange, in February.

ANTHYLLIS. Kipvney Verco. [Leguminose.}] Hand-
some free-blooming evergreen shrubby plants, perennials and
annuals, some few requiring a frame or greenhouse. The
hardy species are adapted for rockwork. The herbaceous
perennials increase freely by seed or division, and grow
readily in light sandy soil. The annuals grow in similar
soil, and propagate by seed. The shrubby species should be
grown in a mixture of equal parts loam and peat, and are
increased by cuttings planted in sandy soil and set into a hot-
bed, and very frequently by seed. There are many species
and varieties.

ANTIRRHINUM. Swappracon. [Scrophulariacez.]}
Hardy herbaceous plants, mostly perennials. The common
Snapdragon (A. majus), with its varieties, is the most im-
portant. It grows well in a common border, and seeds -
freely. These may be sown in July or August in a pan or
wide-mouthed pot, to be planted. out, when large enough, in a
bed four feet wide, the plants six inches apart. In the
autumn, when they have become strong, they may be re-
moved where they are to bloom. Striking varieties, such as
the double-flowered and the striped-flowered, may be pro-
pagated by cuttings of the small unblooming shoots, inserted
in sandy soil under a hand-glass. When rooted they may
be potted singly, into the pots called sixties, and preserved
in frames during winter, ready to plant out in the follow-
ing April. They bloom very well in six-inch pots. The

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. Q1

annuals may be sown in pots in a frame in March, and
planted out in May. The principal varieties are English
seedlings.

AOTUS. [Leguminose.] Pretty greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, with papilionaceous flowers. Soil, turfy, with one-
third loam and one-eighth sand. Propagated by cuttings of
the young shoots in sand under bell-glasses. A. gracillima,
orange yellow. A. incana, A. villosa, and A. virgata, all
bloom yellow, in May.

APHELEXIS. [Composite.] Elegant dwarf greenhouse
evergreen shrubs. The leaves, which are small, and somewhat
woolly, are close pressed to the stems, which thus appear to
be covered with long scales instead of leaves. At the ends of
all the most vigorous shoots appear the flowers, which are
richly coloured, and of the chaffy texture known as “ ever-
lasting.” Soil, sandy, turfy peat, well drained. The plants
should have a day temperature of 60° while growing. Pro-
pagated by cuttings of the small half-ripened side-shoots in
sand, under a bell-glass. Those most cultivated are A. fas-
ciculata, yellowish; a white-flowered variety, alba ; and a red
one, rubra ; A. humilis, rose ; A. purpurea macrantha; and A.
sesamoides, pale rose.

‘APHYLLANTHUS. Laity Pink. ([Liliacer.] Half-
hardy perennial. Soil, sandy peat. Propagated by division
of the plant.

APICRA. {Liliacee.] Small curious greenhouse suc-
culent herbs. They are increased by planting the lateral
shoots as cuttings, in sandy soil very moderately supplied
with water until they have rooted. Soil, sandy loam and
pounded brick rubbish, the pots being drained to one-third
of their depth by broken potsherds. As they grow, the pots
may be changed for larger ones; but being only small-
growing plants, they never require very large pots, and it is
preferable to raise young ones, rather than to keep large
masses of the older plants. There are many varieties, but
none striking.

APIOS. [{Leguminose.| A tuberous-rooted hardy climb-
ing perennial. The tubers have been recommended as a
substitute for potatoes, but are not likely to. supplant them.
Rich loamy soil. For flowering, the plants must stand undis-

22 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

turbed for years. Propagated by division of the tubers. A.
tuberosa, flowers pink, in August.

APOCYNUM. Doe’s-Banz. [Apocynaceew.] Acrid
hardy herbaceous perennials, of rambling growth, with small
cup-shaped flowers, not very showy. Common soil. In-
creased by division.

APONOGETON. [Fluviales.} Curious and elegant per-
ennial water plants. One or two require a stove temperature,
others a greenhouse. A. distachyon is found to be hardy if
kept during winter in deepish water. The tender kinds in
pots set into a tank or tub. Soil, peat and loam. Propagated
by seeds, which should be sown in spring in the same kind of
soil, and the pots set under water : they also increase by offsets.
A. distachyon, A. angustifolium, and A. juncifolium, flower
white.

AQUILEGIA. Cotumepine. [Ranunculacee.] Hand-
some hardy perennials. Common garden soil; good turfy
loam for the choicer sorts. Propagated by seeds or by
division. The seed of the common kinds may be sown in
beds thinly in May; the young plants, when strong enough,
planted out six inches apart every way. If they are to
bloom in beds they should be nine inches apart, and eighteen
inches from row to row. When they bloom pull out and
destroy all the single and ugly ones, and, if desirable, pro-
pagate the better ones. The common Columbine has sported
into a variety of colours, and some of its double varieties are
very beautiful. A. glandulosa, flowers white and blue, in
June. A. macrantha, flowers cream-coloured, tinged with
pink. A. Sibirica, flowers blue and white. There are now
many garden varieties.

ARABIS. Watt Cress. [Crucifere.} Dwarf evergreen
hardy perennials, with cruciferous flowers, particularly adapted
for rockwork. Common soil. Propagated by cuttings, planted
in a shady border under hand-glasses, any time during
summer. The annuals, which are insignificant, are raised
from seeds sown in March. A. albida, flowers white, in
February. A. c@rulea, flowers pale blue, in June. A. rosea,
flowers rose, in April. There are pretty variegated kinds of
A. albida, precox, and lucida.

ARALIA. [Araliacez.] Hardy deciduous shrubs, and tall-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 23

growing herbaceous perennials. They grow with erect stems,
and leaves comparatively large, and very compound, the
herbaceous kinds being smaller. All desirable as specimen
plants for the lawn or shrubbery. Common soil. Propagated
by cuttings of the matured stems, planted in sandy soil under
hand-glasses. ‘There are some stove and greenhouse kinds.
Soil, loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings. A. crassifolia.
and A. edulis flower green, the young shoots eaten as a vege-
table. A. hispida, flowers white. A. Japonica, flowers green.
A. racemosa, hardy perennial, flowers white. A. spinosa,
flowers white, in September. A. trifoliata, flowers green.

~ ARAUCARIA. [Coniferez.]. Noble evergreen trees, highly
ornamental in their aspect. A. imbricata, the Chili Pine, is
quite hardy, and a valuable addition to ornamental plantations.
A more beautiful kind, A. excelsa, the Norfolk Island Pine,
is tender, requiring protection. They grow to a large size
eventually. Good loamy soil. They may be propagated by
euttings, but seedlings only make handsome vigorous plants.
Cooktti, Bidwillti, Brasiliana, and glauca, are half hardy.

ARBOR-VITA. See Tuusa.

ARBUTUS. Srrawperry Tree. [Ericacex.| Beautiful
evergreen shrubs, with bell-shaped flowers, for the most part
hardy, but some requiring protection. The common species
thrive in loamy garden soil; the greenhouse kinds should
have equal parts rich loam and peat. They are increased by
layering, and may be raised from seeds; the latter plan is
mostly adopted, as yielding the best plants. They thrive
amazingly in the soil prepared for American plants ; but they
will succeed in shrubberies in general, where the loam is at
all light and sandy. The rarer sorts may be budded, grafted,
or inarched on A. unedo. The fruit is strawberry-like and
very ornamental. A. andrachne and A. procera are hardy.
A. tomentosa, a greenhouse evergreen. A. unedo, hardy ever-
green shrub. ‘These are all pretty, and the flowers are
bunches of pale hollow bells.

ARCTOSTAPHYLOS. [Ericacee.] Dwarf shrubs, mostly
evergreens. Increased by layering. Soil, peat earth. d.
pungens, half-hardy shrub, flowers: white. A. wva-urst, flowers
flesh colour.

ARCTOTIS. Branr’s Ear. [Compositz.] Greenhouse peren-

24 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

nial herbs, with showy composite flowers. Soil, sandy loam
and leaf-mould. Propagated by division. Many of the-
species are remarkable for having the under surface of their
leaves covered with a close white wool; and this, together
with the form of the leaves, gives them a distinct appearance
among other plants. There are many varieties.

ARDISIA. [Myrsinacee.| Stove and greenhouse ever-
green shrubs. A. crenulata is the most generally grown, on
account of its bright and coral-like berries, which hang round
the stems so as to set the plant off to great advantage.
Blooms and bears fruit while small, and may be grown in a
warm, close greenhouse, though properly a stove plant. Soil,
loam, dung, and turfy peat in equal quantities. Cuttings
root well with bottom heat in silver sand, covered with a bell-
glass. When rooted pot them separately in three-inch pots,
and shift to larger pots as they require it. A. crenulata is
the best. There is also a white one, A. c. alba.

ARDUINA. ([Apocynacee.] A greenhouse evergreen
shrub, the branches furnished with curious forked spines.
Soil, peat and loam in equal proportions, carefully drained.
Propagated by cuttings in sand under a bell-glass. 4.
bispinosa, flowers white, in July.

ARENARIA. Sanpworr. [Caryophyllacee.| Diminutive
herbaceous perennials and annuals. Some of the best of
them interesting for rockwork. Common soil. The peren-
nials increase by division, the annuals by seeds.

ARETIA. [Primulacee.} Pretty little hardy perennials,
well adapted for rockwork or for pot culture. Soil, sandy
loam and peat. Propagated by division.

ARGEMONE. Pricxty Poppy. [Papaveracee.| Annuals
and herbaceous perennials, with poppy-like flowers. Common
garden soil. The annuals should be sown where they are to
bloom; the perennials are increased from suckers. A. grandt-
flora, hardy perennial, flowers white, in July. A. Mesicana,
hardy annual, flowers yellow, in July.

ARIS AIMA. [Araceze.| Hardy and half-hardy tuberous-
rooted perennials, with a curious and spathaceous inflorescence.
Soil, peat and loam. Propagated by division. ;

ARISTEA. [Iridacez.| Greenhouse perennials, with
word-shaped leaves. Soil, turfy peat and loam, three. parts

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 25

of the former to one of the latter. Propagated by division of
the plants or by seeds. A. cyanea and A. pusilla, flower
blue.

ARISTOLOCHIA. Bun det [Aristolochiacee.] Hardy
greenhouse or stove herbs or shrubs, often with twining
stems. Soil for the tender sorts, rich loam and peat in equal
parts; plenty of root room. Propagated by cuttings in sand,
with bottom heat. The stronger growers seldom bloom well
unless planted out, and their branches trained near the
glass. The smaller kinds should have trellises put to
the pots when they are finally shifted. The best form is
round and round a pillar, formed of four or five stalks. Of
all the forms for supporting climbing plants the pyramid is
the worst; for as the branches increase in number as the
specimen hab ud tek, and in no possible case are lessened,
there is the more surface required the higher it goes; so
that lessening it is a positive evil, and leads to the ends of
the shoots all coming together in confusion. For the hardy
sorts, common garden soil; the shrubby sorts being increased
by layers, and the herbaceous sorts by division. A. caudata,
deciduous twining stove shrub, flowers livid purple. A. cym-
bifera, stove climbing shrub, flowers yellow and purple. A.
sipho, yellow and brown, and A. tomentosa, purple, are hardy.

ARISTOTELIA. [Tiliacee.] Hardy evergreen shrub.
Common soil. Propagated by layers. The only ones grown
are A. Macqui, flowers green, in May, and A. variegata.

ARMERIA. Turrrr. [Plumbaginacee.] Dwarf herba-
ceous plants, nearly all hardy. Soil, sandy loam. Increased
by dividing the crown, and planting the separate pieces as
cuttings under hand-glasses. They are fine rock plants, and
also do well in pots; and some varieties of the common Thrift,
especially a deep rose and a white one, make a pretty edging
to flower-beds.

ARTANEMA. [Scrophulariacese.| Greenhouse perennial.
Soil, sandy loam and peat. Propagated by seeds, and sown
in March, or by cuttings of half-ripened shoots. A. fimbria-
tum, flowers-pale blue, in August.

ARTEMISIA. ([Composite.| Hardy and greenhouse
herbs and shrubs, with a few annuals, remarkable in many
cases for a strong heavy odour. A. abrotanum, the Southern-

26 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

wood, is a favourite in cottage gardens; the rest are
unimportant. Common soil. Propagated by cuttings.

ARTHROPODIUM. [Liliacew.} Greenhouse peren-
nials. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Propagated by offsets,
suckers, or by seeds. A. cirratum, A. fimbriatum, and A.
paniculatum, flower white.

ARUM. [ Aracee. | Curious perennials. The majority
hardy, but some requiring a greenhouse, others a stove. It
is the floral sheath or spathe of these plants that forms the
conspicuous part of the inflorescence. The tender kinds
should have rich loam, and plenty of water while growing.
For the hardy sorts, any common soil that is deep. Propa-
gated by suckers. The sorts are A. arisarum, yellowish ;
A. crinitum, greenhouse perennial, brown; A. dracunculus,
hardy, brown; A. Italicum, hardy, flowers yellowish.

ARUNDO. Warer Reep. [Graminee.] Noble hardy
reedy perennials. Damp common soil. Propagated by
division.

ASCLEPIAS. Swattow-wort. [Asclepiadaceew.] Her-
baceous perennials, including stove, greenhouse, and hardy
kinds. For the tender kinds, rich loam and leaf-mould in
equal parts. They are best raised from seeds, which are
generally produced freely, and the plants should be often
renewed: they may also be raised by cuttings in sand in a
hotbed. The seed should be sown in pots in the spring, and
the plants pricked out as soon as large enough, afterwards
potted singly, and shifted into larger pots as they grow.
Most of the hardy sorts grow in good deep garden soil, but
A. tuberosa should have three parts peat to one of good loam.
These are increased by division. A. Curassavica, stove
perennial, flowers orange and scarlet. A white variety is
called alba ; a long-leaved deep red variety is called rubra:
these are very desirable stove plants. A. tuberosa, hardy
tuberous perennial, flowers orange scarlet.

ASH. See Fraxtinuvs.

ASPALATHUS. ([Leguminose.] Very pretty evergreen
greenhouse shrubs, with yellow papilionaceous flowers.
Natives of the Cape of Good Hope, but probably not now in
cultivation. A neglected genus. Soil, sandy loam and peat
in equal parts. Propagated by cuttings in sand under bell-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN Q7

glasses, and well drained. There are about thirty species,
all ornamental in the wild state.

ASPERULA. Wooproor. [Rubiaceew.} Hardy peren-
nials, very pretty for mixed borders. A. odorata has the
fragrance of newly-mown grass. Cool moist soil. Increased
by division.

ASPHODELUS. Aspuopet. [Liliacee.}| Ornamental
hardy perennials. Common soil. Increased by division.
A. albus, white. A. luteus, yellow. A. ramosus, white.

ASPIDIUM. Suierp Fern. [Polypodiacee.| Elegant
ferns. Turfy peat soil. Propagated by division. (See also
Lastrea, Cysropteris, and PotysticHum.) They require,
like most exotic ferns, a very damp, close atmosphere. A.
heracleifolium, stove fern, is generally grown.

ASPLENIUM. Srriernwort. [Polypodiacee.] Elegant
evergreen ferns. Soil, turfy peat. Propagated most readily
by division. There are many tropical kinds in cultivation.
(See also Atuyrium.) The favourites are A. adiantum nigrum,
hardy; A. bulbiferum, greenhouse; A. diversifolium, green-
house; A. ebeneum, hardy; A. fontanum, hardy; <A. lanceo-
latum, half hardy ; A. marinum, half hardy ; A. trichomanes,
hardy.

ASTELMA. [Compositz.] Greenhouse shrubs, with “‘ ever-
lasting” flowers. They require sandy peat soil, smallish pots, a
dryish atmosphere, and very careful watering. Increased by
seeds, sown as soon as ripe in sandy peat, the young plants
pricked out when large enough, and very carefully watered.
A. eximium, crimson; A. fragrans, pink; A. imbricatum,
white ; and A. speciosissimum, white. All pretty.

ASTER. Szrarworrt. [Composite.} Hardy perennials,
with composite flowers. Common garden soil. Propagated
by division. A very large family, of which we enumerate a
very small selection. (See also CauiistepHus and FE.ictA.)
A. alpinus, A. amellus, A. Bessarabicus, A. Cabulicus, blue.
A. Nove-Anglia and A. pulcherrimus, purple.

ASTEROCEPHALUS. [Dipsacee.] Hardy annuals and
perennials, including the well-known Sweet Scabious, or
Blackamoor'’s Beauty. The seeds of this are sown in the
flower-borders in March, and merely thinned-out when the
plants come up. The perennial species are of easy culture

28 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

in common garden soil, and increase by division. There are
many species.

ASTRAGALUS. Mick Vetcu. [{Leguminose.] Peren-
nials and annuals, mostly hardy, bearing papilionaceous
flowers: the large species are suitable for the common
borders, and the smaller ones for rockwork. They are in-
creased by seeds, by division, or by cuttings, according to
their habit. It is a very numerous family, containing many
species of merely botanical interest.

ASTRANTIA. [Umbellifere.] Elegant herbaceous
plants, quite hardy. Common garden soil. Increased by
division. Many varieties pretty, but none particularly
striking.

ATHYRIUM. [Polypodiacez.| Elegant hardy ferns,
including the Lady Fern, A. jiliv-femina, one of the most
beautiful of the larger growing of our indigenous species.
It is an admirable kind for planting on shady rockwork, or
on the shady margin of shrubberies, growing most vigorously
where the situation is damp as well as shady. The fronds
are annual, that is, they grow up in spring and perish in the
autumn, new ones being produced from the root in the suc-
ceeding spring. It grows in any light common soil. Grown
under shelter in a pot, and also, if placed in heat, it is re-
markably elegant.

ATRAGENE. [Ranunculacee.| Hardy deciduous climb-
ing shrubs. Soil, light loamy garden mould. Propagated
by cuttings im common sandy soil, covered with a hand-glass,
or by layers made in the autumn, which by the next autumn
will be ready to take off as strong plants. A. Americana,
purple; A. Austriaca, blue; and A. Sibirica, white, are best.

AUBRIETIA. ([Crucifere.| Pretty dwarf evergreen
herbaceous perennials, suited for rockwork, or for the flower-
borders, or for pots. If planted in the mixed flower-border
they should have two or three stones placed about them,
over which their branches will spread. Common garden soil.
Increased by dividing the plants.

AUCUBA. {[Cornacee.| <A. Japonica is the most useful
of all evergreen shrubs, as it will grow almost anywhere, and
even thrives in the smoky atmosphere of dense cities: its
ample foliage, chequered with white blotches, renders it at all

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 29

times conspicuous. No plant is better adapted than this for
remedying that bare, dismal aspect which is usually borne by
‘shrubberies in the winter season, owing to the predominance
of deciduous plants. Common garden soil. Propagated by
‘cuttings or by layers.

AURICULA. See Primvta.

AVENS. See Geum. .

AZALEA. [Ericacesw.| Handsome, low, hardy and
greenhouse shrubs.

The American or hardy Azaleas (A. Pontica, calendulacea,
nudiflora, and viscosa, with hosts of garden varieties bred
from them) are inhabitants of all our best shrubberies, and
‘have been so wonderfully improved by seedling culture as to
‘throw into the shade the original species. There are now to
be selected twenty or thirty varieties better than the very best
of the original American species. Every year, too, adds to
the diversity of sorts, and to the size of the flowers, which
is one of the characteristics of the improved kinds. In many
places they thrive in the common soil of the garden, but in
general they require peat earth to be dug in with the natural
soil; and where there is to be any quantity grown, or a nur-
sery of them made, beds of peat earth, or compounds of the
greatest part of turfy peat earth, must be made up. They
are raised from seed sown in beds in the open air; but, from
its extreme diminutiveness, many prefer sowing in pans and
wide-mouthed ‘pots. When they are large enough they
should be planted out in peat beds, six inches apart; the
second year every alternate plant may be taken out and
planted elsewhere to make room; and as they increase in
size they should have more room. They are propagated
chiefly by layers, but cuttings of the last year’s wood will root
readily in sand.

The Indian Azaleas (A. Indica) are evergreen greenhouse
shrubs of great beauty, raised by cuttings in sand under a
bell-glass, and with moderate bottom heat. In preparing
these cuttings, let them be cut up to a joint—the base of a
leaf—the lower leaves for an inch stripped off, and the stem
fixed an inch into clean silver sand, which should lie on the
top of some sandy peat soil, with which, after the drainage,
the pot should be filled to within that inch; the bottom of the

30 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

cutting, therefore, will reach, but not go into the soil: cover
with a bell-glass, to be wiped dry inside every morning.
When they are struck they must be potted off into small
pots, and changed from time to time as they fill. They may
be kept in pits in the summer months, but the greenhouse is
the place to bloom them in perfection. Seed may be sown in
wide-mouthed pots, and kept in the greenhouse. When well
up they may be pricked out into pots, the plants not being
less than an inch apart; and when large enough each plant
may have a pot to itself. They cannot have too much light
and air. When well grown they are a complete mass of
bloom in May. They may be grown to almost any size by
shifting from one pot to another, and no plants are so gaudy
and rich as they are when they are in perfection. Soil, strong
rich loam, peat, and dung, made rather sandy for the younger
plants.

AZARA. [Flacourtiacee.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.
Soil, sandy loam. Propagated by cuttings in sand in a
moderate heat. The two mostly grown are A. dentata and A.
integrifolia, yellowish.

BABIANA. [Iridacez.] Greenhouse bulbs. Soil, sandy
loam and peat, equal parts. Propagated by offsets. The
treatment is to keep the bulbs quite dry when they are
ripened off after growing; to re-apply moisture when they
indicate a disposition to renew their growth; to supply them
liberally with water while growing.

BABINGTONIA. [Myrtacee.] A pretty greenhouse
evergreen shrub, with a heath-like habit. Propagated by
cuttings of the young unflowering shoots, put into sand under
bell-glasses, and kept in a moderate heat until they have taken
root, when they are to be potted singly into small pots, using
a compost of equal parts loam and peat, made sandy for them
during these earlier stages of their progress. As the small
pots fill they must be shifted into larger ones, using less sand
in the compost; but this shifting must not be done after
August until February. The established plants should have
a good shift about March or April, and should be kept in a
light airy greenhouse. The first strong shoots may be topped to
moderate their vigour, and to produce a greater profusion of
less luxuriant ones, which have a better effect when in bloom.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. ol

In May, when greenhouse plants are removed from the green-
house, these should be set to grow under a frame, to shield
them from heavy rains, and support some slight shading in
the hottest parts of sunny days, but not preventing the con-
stant circulation of air about them. The lights should be
off at night in all fine mild weather, and on dull cloudy
days, and only put on during heavy rains, and when shading
is necessary. ‘Towards autumn the plants are to be returned |
to the greenhouse.

BACKHOUSIA. [Myrtaceze.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, peat and loam. Propagated by cuttings of
half-ripe shoots in sand under a bell-glass. 5. myrtifolia
greenhouse evergreen shrub, flowers pale yellow, in
May.

BACKIA. [Myrtacew.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.
Soil, sandy loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings, planted
under a bell-glass in sand. Bb. diosmefolia, B. gracilis,
B. saxicola, and B. virgata, all flower white.

BALM. See ME rissa.

BALSAMINA. Batsam. [Balsaminacee.| Tender an-
nuals. The garden Balsam, of which numerous handsome
varieties are grown, is the B. hortensis. This requires a rich
compost of loam and vegetable mould. Sow the seeds in
pots about March, and put them in a cucumber frame or
melon bed. As soon as they are up, and before they have
time to draw, let them be potted out, one in a pot three
inches across, and put in a declining or very moderate hotbed,
where they must have air, to prevent their being drawn up,
and must be so placed that the tops shall be near the glass ;
and the plants must be shifted every time the pots fill with
roots, and in this way you go on moving them from one pot
to another as they fill with roots. The heat of the bed must
not be neglected; and the pots will have to be lowered, or
the frame raised, as the plants increase in size. Some of the
plants may be hardened off in May, and in June turned into
the borders, where, if the soil be rich and the situation shel-
tered, they make a very pretty show, and seed freely. ‘Those
in pots have to be put into the greenhouse when they have
grown too large for the frames; and if the house is a lean-to
they should be turned every day, that one side may not be

32 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

drawn more than another. By constant shifting as the
plants fill the pots, and keeping them near the glass, they
can be grown very large, much branched, and the flowers will
cover the branches all over. Compared with the double
varieties of the common Balsam, all the other sorts are
unimportant.

BANKSIA. [Proteacez.] ~ Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.
, Soil, loam and peat in equal parts, with one-eighth sand. In
potting put plenty of crocks at the bottom, to make a good
outlet for the water: very careful watering is necessary. They
should be examined daily. Cuttings of ripened wood strike
root in sand under a bell-glass. When the cuttings are struck
and established in small pots, grow them in the lightest part
of the greenhouse, with plenty of air, and shift from one
sized pot to another as they become filled with roots. There
are many species cultivated, and all are curious, but only fit
for large places.

BAPTISIA. ([Leguminose.}| Hardy perennials, with
papilionaceous blossoms. Common loamy soil. Multiplied
by division. B. alba, white; B. australis, blue; B. mollis,
blue ; and B. villosa, yellow, are the chief varieties.

BARBADOES LILY. See Hipprastrum EQuEsTRIs.

BARNADESIA. [Composite.] Cool stove shrubs, re-
quiring to be kept cool and nearly dry in a close part of a
greenhouse in winter. Soil, peat and loam. Propagated by
cuttings in sand in gentle heat. B. rosea, flowers deep rose
pink, in May.

BARNARDIA. [Liliacew.] Pretty greenhouse bulb.
Soil, sandy loam. Propagated by offsets. The only one
worth cultivating is B. scilloides.

BARTONIA. [Loasacee.] Half-hardy annuals and
biennials. Soil, peaty and rather cool. Propagated by seeds ;
the annuals sown in March on a mild hotbed, and planted
out in May, or sown in the open ground in April; the
biennials sown in July, and kept in frames during winter.
B. aurea, which is the principal sort cultivated, is very
pretty.

BARYOSMA. [Rutacew.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
with strong-scented foliage. Soil, sandy loam and peat, in
the proportion of one-third of the former to two of the latter.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 33

Propagated by cuttings in sand under a bell-glass. JB.
crenata, B. latifolia, and B. odorata, are white. JB. serrati-
folia, flowers pink.

BATATAS. [Convolvulacee.] Free-growing and showy
stove climbers, with fleshy roots, requiring to be kept mode-
rately dry in the winter season, when dormant. Soil, rich
open loam and leaf-mould. As their growth is rapid, and
limited in duration, they should be placed in large pots when
they begin to grow, the soil being used in a very rough,
lumpy state. They do well planted out in a stove conserva-
tory if their roots can be kept moderately free from damp in
the winter season. Propagated by cuttings of the young
shoots from the tubers in a hotbed.

BAUERA. [Hydrangeacere.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, peat and loam. Propagated by gos B.
humilis, flowers red.

BEAR'S BREECH. See Acanruus.

BEAR’S EAR. See Arcrorts.

BEATONIA. ([Iridaceze.}] Greenhouse bulbs. Soil, rich
sandy loam. Propagated by offsets, but of little use.

BEAUFORTIA. ([Myrtacez.]. Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, peat and loam, lightened, if necessary, by the
addition of sand. Cuttings may be planted in sand, and
covered by a bell-glass: they root best in slight heat. JB.
decussata, flowers scarlet, in May. B. purpurea, flowers
purple, in July.

BEGONIA. ELEpPHANT’s Far. [Begoniacee.] Stove
perennials, tubers, or soft-wooded shrubs, a very few growing
in a warm greenhouse. Cuttings may be struck in sandy
soil under a glass, in a hotbed or the propagating house, or
in a vinery. When struck they should be potted in a com-
post of two-thirds loam and one-third peat and dung, and be
placed in a hotbed, or the stove, or any warm house or pit.
As they grow larger, and fill their pots with roots, they must
be chapged for others of a larger size. The tuberous sorts
die down entirely in winter, and require then to be set away
perfectly dry till the spring, when they should be again
watered, and placed in a warm situation to excite them into
growth. B. albo-coccinea, evergreen, flowers white and
scarlet, in May. JB. cinnabarina, flowers orange scarlet, in

D

|) GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

June. B. coccinea, evergreen, flowers scarlet, in August.
B. fuchsioides, evergreen, flowers scarlet, in October. JB.
manicata, evergreen, flowers pink, in January. JB. nitida,
evergreen, flowers blush, in May. JB. Prestoniensis and B.
Rex may be added.

BEJARIA. ([Ericaceze.| Beautiful evergreen greenhouse
shrubs. Soil, turfy peat. Propagated by cuttings in sand
under a bell-glass. 6B. @stuans, rose colour. B. coarctata,
pink. JB. ledifolia and B. racemosa, flower pink.

BELLADONNA LILY. See Amary.iis.

BELLEVALIA. — [Liliacee.} Hardy bulbs. Common
soil. Propagated by offsets. B. operculata, flowers white. DB.
Syriaca, flowers orange and blue.

BELLIDIASTRUM. [Composite.| Dwarf hardy peren-
nial, with daisy-like flowers. Soil, loam and peat. Increased
by division.

BELLIS. Daisy. [Composite.] Hardy perennials.
Common garden soil. The common sort grows wild every-
where—in pastures, by the roadside, on banks, and in almost
every piece of waste land. Of the garden varieties, the most
striking are the double white, double crimson, double striped,
and a curious sort vulgarly called the Hen-and- Chicken
Daisy, from the fact of small flower-heads coming all round
the large ones. They are multiplied by parting the roots
into single hearts; these will, in a season or two, multiply
themselves again by spreading offsets all around them, and
becoming large patches. They are often used as edgings to
beds ; and, next to Box and Thrift, perhaps they form the best,
because they can be kept to a moderate width by merely
cutting, as the edging of turf might be cut.

BELLIUM. ([Composite.] Pretty, but minute, her-
baceous perennials, suitable for pot culture, or for growing
on rockwork, the flowers resembling the Daisy. Soil, sandy,
with a fourth part peat. Increased by division; the annuals
by seeds sown in March. The principal are B. bellglioides,
B. crassifolium, and B. minutum, all blooming white.

BENTHAMIA. [Cornacese.] A hardy evergreen shrub
in the warmer parts of England; but in the climate of
London it can only be grown in a conservatory, or against a
wall, for which, however, its yellowish flowers and reddish

Ort

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 3

strawberry-like fruit render it suitable. Good loamy soil.
Propagated either by layers or from the seeds. Bb. fragifera,
flowers yellowish, is the one in cultivation.

BERBERIS. Barserry. ([Berberacee.| Handsome
shrubs, mostly hardy, and nearly all evergreen. The common
Barberry, B. vulgaris, is deciduous, grows well in any soil,
and, besides being bushy in itself, throws up suckers from its
roots like a thicket. If the beauty of the shrub is to be pre-
served, these suckers should be removed as fast as they come
up ; and if taken off properly, with a portion of root to them,
they form young plants. Although there is not a shrub more
decidedly shrubby, it can be formed into a pretty standard.
Young suckers may be supported with stakes until they run
up to the height required, all their side-shoots being removed
before they advance much in growth; the top may then be
taken off, and a few of the lateral branches encouraged close
to the top; these, shortened before they grow much, cause
other laterals to grow, and a good head may be formed in a
short time. Generally a deep sandy loam is desirable. Pro-
pagated by cuttings in autumn, by grafting in the case of
rare sorts, and by seeds where large quantities are reared.

Oue set of the Barberries have been called Mahonias.
These are beautiful dwarf evergreen shrubs, with bright,
shiny foliage, growing thick and rich, and bearing beautiful
close bunches of bright yellow flowers in the spring, succeeded
by rich purple fruit. There is hardly a prettier set of ever-
greens in cultivation. They afford a very striking variety in
the foliage of a mixed clump; but, as the plants feather down
to the ground, there should be nothing to hide them: on this
account they make excellent lawn plants. They bear round,
bright purple fruit, which looks as pretty as the flowers ; and
the plants, which do not grow higher than three or four feet
in general, and are a good while reaching that height, are
handsome without either flowers or fruit. They are multiplied
by suckers, which may be taken off in theautumn. They also
strike freely, and may therefore be raised from cuttings; but
of late they have been chiefly raised from seeds, which yield
a much greater variety of foliage than the several enumerated
sorts exhibit. The seed should be washed out of the soft
berries and dried; then a bed, with a portion of turty peat

36 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

dug among the ordinary soil, should be prepared, and the seed
sown very thinly indeed upon it, and raked in. When it
comes up let it be cleared of weeds, and in very dry weather
occasionally watered. They may remain until large enough
to plant out a foot apart, for if they have not room they
soon draw up ugly. Here they have only to be kept clean
till they are large enough to plant where they are to stand.
Except where otherwise specified, those named below are
evergreen. Bb. aquifolia, flowers yellow. B. Bealei, yellow.
B. Darwinti, deep orange. B. dulcis, yellow: these are
hardy. B. empetrifolia, half hardy, yellow; B. fascicularis,
half hardy, yellow; B. Fortuni, hardy, yellow; B. glumacea,
hardy, yellow; B. Nepalensis, half hardy, yellow; B. repens,
hardy ; B. trifoliata, half-hardy deciduous, yellow; B. trifurca,
half-hardy evergreen; B. vulgaris, hardy deciduous, yellow,
are all fine; and to these may be added B. intermedia, B.
Japonica, B. glycinefolia, and B. Newbertit.

BETONICA. Brtony. ([Labiate.}| Hardy perennials.
Soil, common garden mould. Propagated by division. JB.
grandiflora, purple; B. incana, flesh-colour; B. nivea, red ;
and B. orientalis, light purple, are the principal.

BIGNONIA. Trumpet Fiower. [Bignoniacee.] Climbing
shrubs, mostly stove plauts, which we omit: one or two are
more hardy. To have them fine they must be planted out
in peat and loam, and the branches trained at full length.
They mostly bloom on short shoots, produced from the well-
ripened buds of the previous year’s wood. Propagated by
cuttings in sand in a hotbed, or by layering. B. capreolata
does well on a wall, and flowers red, in June. JB. radicans
major is fine. See also TEcoma.

BILLARDIERA. [Pittosporaceez.] Greenhouse ever-
green climbers, the flowers succeeded by handsome berries.
Soil, peat and loam in equal quantities. Propagated by
seeds, or by cuttings placed in a slight heat. B. angusti-
folia, B. longiflora, and B. scandens, all flower creamy.

BLADDER FERN. See Cystopreris.

BLADDER SENNA. See Coturza.

BLANDFORDIA. — [{Liliacez.] Beautiful greenhouse
perennials. They should have a very free, open compost,
consisting of sandy loam and peat earth, and require large-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 37

sized pots, well drained, to grow them to perfection. In-
creased by dividing the suckers, as well as by seeds. The
principal are B. grandiflora and B. marginata, which flower
orange red, and B. nobilis, which flowers crimson.

BLECHNUM. [Polypodiacee.] Elegant ferns. The
hothouse and greenhouse kinds grow well in turfy peat. The
hardy species, a very elegant plant for outdoor rockwork,
prefers to grow where there is some degree of moisture and
shade; it also requires a peaty soil, and is increased by
division. The sorts chiefly grown are B. australe, green-
house; B. cartilagineum, greenhouse; B. hastatum, green-
house; B. spicant, hardy; and B. triangulare, greenhouse.

BLETIA. ([Orchidacew.}| Stove or greenhouse peren-
nials. Some of the species, though reckoned as stove plants,
may be grown in a warm frame or greenhouse. They require
to be kept dormant and nearly dry through the winter, and
removed to a somewhat warmer place in February, when they
will commence growing. Soil, turfy peat, light loam, and
decayed cowdung. Propagated by division.

BLUMENBACHIA. ([Loasacee.| Halfhardy annuals
and perennials, more curious than beautiful. They require
to be sown in pots in March, and, when large enough, planted
out where they are to bloom, or potted and trained in some
way. Rich light garden soil.

BOMAREA. [Amaryllidacee.] Very handsome twining
greenhouse perennial, with fleshy roots, allied to the Alstre-
merias. Soil, deep light loam, or loam and leaf-mould in
equal parts. Propagated by division or by seeds. Except
edulis, all the following species will live in a dry situation out
of doors if planted deep enough to be beyond reach of frost ;
they he dormant in winter, and spring up with vigour late
in the spring. B. acutifolia, flowers red and orange. JB.
edulis, stove perennial, flowers red. JB. salsilla, greenhouse,
flowers purple, with a dark and light eye.

BONAPARTEA. [Bromeliacez.] Stove perennials, with
decurved rush-like leaves from a centre. Soil, sandy loam,
requiring a largish-sized pot. Increased by seeds, or by
divisions of the offshoots. The one cultivated is B. juncea.

BORAGO. Boracn. [Boraginacese.} Hardy annuals,
biennials, and perennials. The common Borage, a gay annual,

38 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

is one of the best flowers to sow in the neighbourhood of bees,
for it is said they derive more nourishment from it than from
any other flower that blows. Good garden soil. Propagated
by seeds, which may be scattered over the surface and raked
in, and the plants afterwards thinned where they are too much
crowded. The perennials may be multiplied by parting the roots.

BORBONIA. [{Leguminose.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, with papilionaceous flowers. Not very common.
Soil, peat and loam. Propagated by cuttings in sand under
bell-glasses.

BORONIA. [Rutacex.] Beautiful evergreen greenhouse
shrubs. Soil, sandy loam one part, and turfy peat two parts.
Propagated by cuttings of the ends of the shoots, planted
in sand under a bell-glass. The glasses will require to be
wiped dry every morning, and when the cuttings begin to
grow they may be removed an hour every day. The cuttings,
when. struck, should be planted singly in three-inch pots,
one-third of the pots being filled with broken crocks, or pot-
sherds, to secure good drainage ; and as these small pots are
filled with roots they may be exchanged for larger ones. If -
the object is to keep the plants short and bushy, take the
top off to encourage lateral shoots, and as these get long top
them also; but they naturally grow very handsome and pyra-
midal, with enough lateral shoots to form handsome, well-
proportioned shrubs. The plants must have plenty of air in
mild weather ; but if set out in summer with other greenhouse
plants, and neglected, they are apt to become discoloured in
the foliage, which is rarely recovered. They are, in fact, as
miffy as heaths, and if the watering be neglected, the effect
is almost immediately seen. One watering too many is
pretty nearly as bad as one too few; therefore they ought not
to be watered by rule, but examined every twenty-four hours,
and if they are damp they require no watering that day; if
otherwise, they do require it. When they are watered, all the
compost must be wetted—not merely half an inch of the top,
for that is useless. B. alata, flowers rose colour. B. Drum-
mondti, flowers pink. JB. serrulata, flowers rose pink. B.
tetrandra, flowers pale purple. JB. triphylla, flowers pink.

BOSSIAA. [Leguminose.] Ornamental greenhouse ever-
green shrubs, with papilionaceous flowers. Soil, three-fourths

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 39

turfy peat to one-fourth sandy loam. Propagated by cuttings
in sand under bell-glasses. They are very sensitive of having
too much or too little water. B. disticha, flowers orange-
yellow. B. disticha plumosa, B. paucifolia, and B. cordifolia,
are also grown.

BOTTLE GOURD. See Lacenaria.

BOUVARDIA. ([Cinchonacee.] Handsome small sub-
shrubs, mostly greenhouse plants. Some of the species pro-
duce a profusion of scarlet blossoms when planted out for the
summer in a bed of good peat earth in the flower garden.
Of this habit are B. triphylla, and a variety of it called
splendens. The other greenhouse kinds require similar treat-
ment: the stove species are not of much importance. The
roots must be taken up in autumn, and potted and kept
rather dry in a greenhouse ; and in spring excited in a dung-
frame, and hardened off afterwards to plant out as soon as
danger from frost is past. These kinds are best propagated
by pieces of the thicker roots an inch or two long, set round
against the side of a pot, just covered with soil, and the pots
plunged in a dung-frame. When they begin to grow up they
should be potted separately: they grow well in a compost of
turfy peat and loam. We may grow also B. flava, yellow,
and B. longiflora alba.

BOX. See Buxus.

BRACHYCOME. Swan Daisy. [Composite.] Pretty half-
hardy annuals. Soil, rich light earth. Propagated by seed,
which may be sown in heat about March, and when large
enough planted out in the borders or bed six inches apart ;
or it may be sown thinly out of doors in April, and be thinned
out, but it is much later in general than it is when sown in
heat and planted out in May. B. iberidifolia, blue, is very
pretty grown in pots.

BRACHYSEMA. [Leguminose.] Greenhouse evergreen
climbing shrubs, with papilionaceous flowers. Soil, peat and
loam in equal proportions, made porous, if necessary, by the
addition of sand: it must be well drained. Seeds or cuttings
are available for propagation. It is a beautiful plant for the
pillars of a greenhouse, near the front, where they are well
exposed to light. B. latifolium, flowers crimson. B, villoswm,
flowers crimson. -

40 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

BRAVOA. [Amaryllidacee.] A pretty greenhouse or
half-hardy bulb. Soil, light rich loam. Propagated by
offsets.

BREAD TREE. See Metta.

BRISTLE FERN. See Trichomanzs.

BRIZA. Quvaxine. Grass. [Graminesw.] One of the few
grasses which are admissible to the flower garden, bearing
roundish, drooping, dangling, chaffy-like clusters of flowers.
Hardy annuals. The seeds may be sown in common soil in
March or April.

BRODIASA. [Liliacee.} Pretty, slender, half-hardy
bulbs. Light rich soil. Propagated by offsets. The chief
are B. Californica, B. congesta, and B. grandiflora, all of
which flower bluish.

BROWALLIA. ([Scrophulariacee.} Pretty greenhouse
annuals or shrubs. The annuals grow in light rich soil,
and are increased by seeds sown in March in a hotbed, with
other tender annuals. The shrubs grow in peat and loam in
equal proportions, and are propagated by cuttings placed in
a gentle heat. The best are B. grandiflora, annual; B.
Jamesoni, greenhouse sub-shrub ; and B. speciosa, annual.

BRUGMANSIA. See Datura.

BRUNIA. [Bruniacee.| Greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
with heath-like leaves. Their habit is elegant, but they
possess no other beanty. Soil, sandy peat and loam. Pro-
pagated by cuttings. There are several species introduced,
all of similar habit.

BRUNONIA. ([Brunoniacee.] A very pretty green-
house perennial. Soil, sandy loam, two parts, with one part
each of peat and leaf-mould; the pots well drained. Propa-
gated by division or seeds.

BRUNO’S LILY. See Czackxta.

BRUNSFELSIA. [Scrophulariacee.] Showy stove ever-
green shrubs. Soil, turfy peat and loam in equal proportions,
with sand. Propagated by cuttings planted in sandy soil, and
put inamoist heat. ‘The only two cared for are B. Americana,
pale yellow, and B. nitida Jamaicensis, yellow.

BRUNSVIGIA. [Amaryllidacee.} Showy greenhouse
bulbs. They require much pot room, and a very rich, well-
drained, loamy soil. The culture of these and other bulbs

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. Al

should be seasonal; that is, the foliage should be grown to as
perfect a state as possible, and then well ripened, and the bulbs
dried and rested for some weeks; subsequently the plants
should be again watered and excited into growth, when the
bloom appears. They increase by means of the offsets from
the bulbs. The principal ones grown are B. grandiflora, pink ;
B. minor, pink; and B. multiflora, red.

BRYANTHUS. [Ericacee.] Pretty diminutive ever-
green under-shrubs, requiring shelter rather from heat and
dryness than from cold. Sandy peat soil. Increased by
cuttings in sand under bell-glasses, and kept quite cold.

BRYOPHYLLUM. ([Crassulacesé.] A curious succulent
greenhouse plant, with an upright stem, opposite leaves, and
the flowers in a terminal spreading bunch. It requires to be
kept warm and dry in winter, like Crassulas and other
succulents, and is interesting from the fact that the leaves,
laid flat on a pot of soil, will produce a number of young
plants from the indentations on their margins, by which
means it is readily propagated.

BUCKTHORN. See Ruamnus.

BUDDLEA. [Scrophulariacee.| Evergreen shrubs.
There are many stove and greenhouse species, which, though
pretty, are of little importance in cultivation. B. Lindleyana,
a species requiring the protection of a wall or a cold green-
house, and Bb. globosu, a fine hardy shrub, are the most
desirable. They all grow freely in a light loamy soil, and
may be propagated by cuttings or layers.

BUGAINVILLAsA. [Nyctaginacese. Stove shrubs. B.
spectabilis is a fine scrambling evergreen, growing very freely
in fibry, loamy soil, but seldom flowering until it has attained
some age and size. It is propagated readily by cuttings in
sand. ‘The beauty of this plant resides in the large rosy-
purple bracts which surround the flowers.

BULBINE. [Liliacew.] Greenhouse perennial herbs, in
some cases bulbous. Soil, sandy loam, well drained. Pro-
pagated by offsets or division.

BULBOCODIUM. {Melanthacee.| Beautiful dwarf
hardy crocus-like bulbous plants. Soil, sandy loam. In-
creased by offsets. The chief are B. vernum, purple; and
B. versicolor, lilac and yellow.

49 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

BUPHTHALMUM. Ox-ryre. ([Composite.] Shrubby
and herbaceous plants, the former increasing by cuttings, the
latter by division or by seeds, and all growing in a soil of —
equal parts sandy loam and leaf-mould. There are many
varieties.

BUPLEURUM. Hars’s Kar. [Umbellifere.] Hardy
annuals or perennials, of no horticultural importance.

. BURCHARDIA. [Melanthacee.] Greenhouse perennial.
Soil, sandy peat, with abundant moisture. Increased by
division. B. umbellata, flowers white.

BURCHELLIA. ([Cinchonacee.| Evergreen shrubs,
requiring a temperature intermediate between the stove and
greenhouse. Soil, loam and peat, of open texture. Propa-
gated by cuttings in sand in a gentle heat. B. Capensis,
with flowers light red, is the only one grown.

BURNET. See Saneuisorsa.

BURTONIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Handsome
small evergreen greenhouse shrubs. Soil, three-fourths light
peat, one-fourth sandy loam, with sand and charcoal lumps :
careful watering. Propagated by cuttings in sand under a
bell-glass, or seeds. The principal are BD. conferta, B.
pulchella, and B. villosa, all purple.

BUTCHER’S BROOM. See Ruscus.

BUTOMUS. Ftowrrine Rusu. [Butomacee.] Beau-
tiful hardy perennial aquatics. They should be planted on
the margin of a pond or piece of water, in the muddy bank,
and soon establish themselves, spreading by means of suckers
from the root, which afford means of propagation.

BUXUS. Box. [Euphorbiacee.] Hardy evergreen shrubs,
remarkably neat both in habit and foliage. There are many
varieties of the common tree Box, B. sempervirens (which,
however, is a shrub), and of these the broad-leaved and gold-
striped are the best. They grow in common garden soil, pre-
ferring loam. Increased by layers or cuttings planted in
August. There have been two or three Chinese varieties
recently introduced.

CABOMBA. [Cabombacez.] A small interesting green-
house aquatic. Shallow water, with a layer of rich loam at
bottom. Increased by division. Requires to be rested in winter.

CACALIA. [Composite.] This genus consists partly of

| TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 43

‘curious succulent plants (sometimes called Kleinia), and
‘partly of herbaceous plants, among which are two pretty
hardy annuals (sometimes called Emilia). Of this there are
many varieties, as angustifolia, narrow-leaved; argentea,
‘silver variegated ; aurea, gold-variegated ; marginata, yellow-
edged ; myrtifolia, myrtle-leaved ; suffruticosa, sub-shrubby,
‘the latter being the sort commonly used for edging to garden
»walks. The seeds of the latter may be sown in the open
‘borders in April, and the plants come into bloom during
‘summer. The succulent species grow in sandy loam and
brick rubbish, and need but little water: the cuttings of the
‘stems strike root most certainly after being partially dried
‘before planting.

_ CACTUS. See Crreus, Ecuinocactus, MamMiInuaria,
\Metocactus. .

CAIOPHORA. {[Loasacee.] Pretty biennial twining
plants, which have been separated from Loasa. To be had
in perfection, they should be sown in June or July, and kept
‘through the winter in an airy greenhouse, and then planted
‘out in May, to cover trellis-work, or trained around stakes in
\large pots, if that be preferred. They are readily increased
by seed. Like the Loasas, they have stinging hairs. They
usually bloom throughout the summer ; or, if raised as above
‘directed, will also be in blossom through the spring months.
\C. lateritia is a greenhouse climbing biennial, with flowers
brick red.

CALADENIA. ([Orchidacee.] Curious and very pretty
greenhouse perennials, of a race which is found difficult of
culture. They should be potted in a compost of loam, peat,
and sand, and should be kept in a cool greenhouse. They
inhabit Australia, whence the roots are occasionally imported,
but they are seldom long preserved alive. Several species
are known.

CALADIUM. [Aracex.] Stove herbaceous plants, re-
markable for their fine conspicuous foliage. C. bicolor, a
small-growing kind, is one of the most desirable in a small
garden: the leaves of this have about half the surface in
the centre coloured red. The plants should be potted in
rich light loamy soil, and kept in the stove. In winter
they are best kept rather dry, but they should be kept moist

44 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

while growing. Propagated by division of the plant. They
are closely related to the Arwms, a familiar instance of which
occurs in the “lords and ladies” of our hedge-banks. ‘There
are numerous species in cultivation.

CALAMINTHA. Catamrnt. {Labiate.} Pretty her-
baceous perennials. Common soil. Propagated by division.

CALAMPELIS. [Bignoniaceze.| Handsome free-growing
half-hardy climbers, well adapted to cover a considerable space
out of doors in summer, or to intermix with other more close-
growing species on a trellis. The blossoms are tubular,
orange-coloured, in loose panicles, and are very showy.
Requires protection in winter. Light loamy soil. Propagated
freely by seeds. It is sometimes called Hecremocarpus.

CALANDRINIA. [Portulacew.] Pretty herbaceous
plants. C. discolor and C. grandiflora are best grown as
biennials. C. speciosa and C. procumbens are very pretty
treated as annuals, and flower best in dry, hot situations, with
their branches trailing over stones. The latter should be
sown either in pots during March, to be planted out in May,
or in the open border some time in April. The former, if
sown about August, and kept over winter in the greenhouse,
flower vigorously in the following summer. All like a light
soil of sandy loam, peat, and leaf-mould. Seeds are the best
means of propagation. They flower best in hot, dry, sunny
situations ; in fact, their blooms only expand to the sun, but
when expanded their rich purple colour is very attractive.

CALANTHE. [Orchidacez.] Herbaceous perennials, with
very beautiful blossom. Soil, peat and loam, mixed with
sand and charcoal lumps, well drained, with plenty of water
whilst growing. Increased by division. There are numerous
very handsome stove species.

CALATHEA. [Marantacee.] C. zebrina is one of the
handsomest stove plants in existence in respect to its foliage,
which is large, velvety, and beautifully variegated with dark
green and a paler tint. It is a perennial, growing freely in a
light loamy soil, and increasing by division. The flowers of
this species are of a purple colour, and are produced from
April to July; but the leaves are the most conspicuous part.

CALCEOLARIA. Sureperwort. [Scrophulariacee. ]
Shrubs and herbs, mostly requiring greenhouse protection,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 45

though some are nearly hardy; the majority are showy, and
grow freely in the open air during summer. Within the last
ten or fifteen years great advance has been made in the pro-
perties of this curious flower; and it is to be regretted that
the finest quality of the plant has been lost sight of, through
the ill-advised plan of giving prizes for the worst possible
habit of the plants. Shrubby Calceolarias are very handsome
objects, while the herbaceous kinds have larger, coarser, and
worse-shaped flowers ; and prizes have been given for these as
well as the others. The consequence has been, the production
of a race that are neither the one nor the other. Calceolarias
are, strictly speaking, greenhouse plants, and will bear no
frost. They are generally kept, until they are rising for
bloom, in pits, where frost can be kept out by mats or other
coverings, for anything short of frost will not hurt them.
They are propagated by cuttings of the side-shoots, which root
freely if planted in light sandy peat about October ; but they
do not root freely if planted in spring or summer. Seeds
may be sown in pans or wide-mouthed pots in August, and
the seedlings potted off, six or eight in a pot, when large
enough; and after this, when they have got forward enough,
put singly in small pots, to be changed from time to time
for larger: these bloom early the following year. Later
blooming plants may be had by sowing in spring. The stems
require no support unless the plants are to be carried out, in
which case they require a stake to every stem. The soil should
be light rich loam, well drained. C. integrifolia and its
varieties, angustifolia and viscosissima, are brilliant flower-
garden dwarf shrubby plants, bearing large masses of yellow
blossoms from May throughout the summer. The florist’s
varieties are very numerous, and are constantly undergoing
change and improvement.

CALENDULA. Maricorp. [Composite.] Showy hardy
or half-hardy annuals and greenhouse shrubs. The hardy
annual species succeed in common garden soil, and are readily
increased by seeds, which should be sown in April. The half-
hardy sorts should be reared on a slight hotbed in April, and
planted out in May. The common Marigold is very brilliant.
The Cape Marigolds open only under the influence of sunshine.
The shrubby greenhouse kinds are unimportant.

46 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

CALIPHURIA. [Amaryllidacee.] Pretty bulbous plants,
requiring a greenhouse or warm pit, sandy loam and peat
compost, and increased by offsets.

CALLA. See RicHarpta.

CALLIANDRA. [Leguminose, § Mimose.] Beautiful
stove evergreen shrubs, with elegant pinnated foliage. Soil,
loam and peat. Increased by cuttings in sand. The best
are (. Harrisit, rose colour; C. Houstoni, purple; C. pul-
cherrima, scarlet; C. Tweediei, crimson.

CALLICHROA. [Composite.] A dwarf hardy annual.
It grows in common garden soil, and is increased by seeds,
which should be sown in March and April.

CALLICOMA. [Cunoniacee.] A handsome greenhouse
evergreen shrub. Soil, sandy peat. Propagated by cuttings
in sand under a bell-glass.

CALLIOPSIS. [Composite.] Extremely showy hardy
annuals, formerly known as Coreopsis. They may be sown in
gentle heat to forward them, pricked out five or six in a pot,
and kept growing in the house until the middle of May, when
the balls of earth may be turned out whole, the plants being
undisturbed; but it is better to sow in the open border.
When sown thus it must be in April, and these will come
into flower in July, a month after those turned out of pots
in a forward state. This flower ought, of course, to be
planted behind shorter things, about even with Sweet Peas,
branching Larkspurs, and things of similar growth. It
does not make a bad appearance mixed with branching
Larkspurs on large borders, for both show only their flowers,
the stems of neither being large enough to interfere with
their abundant bloom, and the beautiful blue of the one
contrasting well with the orange-yellow, black-eyed flowers of
the other.

CALLIPRORA. [Liliacexe.] Pretty little hardy bulbous
plants, that should be planted in a sheltered peat border.
Increased by offsets.

CALLIPSYCHE. [Amaryllidacee.] Handsome green-
house bulbs. Soil, light rich loam. Increased by offsets.

CALLISTACHYS. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.} Large
and somewhat coarse evergreen greenhouse shrubs, with
showy bunches of yellow, butterfly-shaped flowers. They are

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 47

of easy culture in a compost of peat and loam, and may be
increased either by cuttings or by seeds.

CALLISTEMON. {[Mpyrtacee.| Beautiful evergreen
greenhouse shrubs, related to, and requiring the treatment of,
Melaleuca. The flowers are like bunches of coloured threads
set close together, so as to form the appearance of a bottle-
brush. C. lanceolatus, flowers crimson. OC. viridiflorus,
flowers green.

CALLISTEPHUS. Caxtna Aster. [Composite.] The
China Aster, formerly called Aster Chinensis, and subsequently
Callistemma hortense, is a favourite annual. The German
varieties, with flowers single, semi-double, or double, self-
coloured, red, pink, dark and light purple, or striped in all
ways, form a varied and striking feature towards the end of
the summer wherever they are introduced. To have them
in perfection, plant them in half well-decomposed dung and
half loam, or add plenty of manure to the soil of the garden.
Sow them in a hotbed in February or March; plant them
out in May. If planted in beds—in which way they are
very effective—let the bed be supplied with a good dressing
of dung, and plant them a foot apart every way; keep them

‘clear of weeds, and in dry sultry weather let them have
plenty of water. They will bloom much finer treated in this
‘way, though, when planted about the borders wherever
‘there happens to be room, they add greatly to the beauty of
ithe garden, because their colours are so varied. The best
flowers should be marked for seeding.

CALLUNA. Hearuer. [Ericacee.} Pretty dwarf hardy
evergreen shrubs. Soil, peat. Increased by layers or by
seeds.

CALOCHORTUS. ([Liliacee.] Very beautiful bulbous
plants, which appear to be difficult of cultivation. They seem
to do best when planted out in a frame into a bed of prepared
soil, consisting of sandy peat, with about a fourth part of loam
added. In this way they can readily be kept dry and cool in
winter during their resting season. Propagated by offsets.

CALOPHACA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Hardy
deciduous shrub ; very ornamental when grafted half standard
high on Laburnum. Loamy soil. Propagated by seeds, or
cuttings, or grafts. }

48 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

CALOSTEMMA. [Amaryllidacee.] Pretty greenhouse
bulbs. Soil, sandy loam, with decayed manure and leaf-
mould, made free by about one-eighth of gritty sand. The
plants may be rested in a cold pit free from frost during
winter, and in spring excited in a warm pit or greenhouse.
Propagated by offsets. The best are C. album, white, and C.
purpureum, purple.

CALOTHAMNUS. [Myrtacee.] Beautiful evergreen
greenhouse shrubs, allied to Callistemon, and requiring the
same kind of management.

CALTHA. Marsu Martcotp. [Ranunculacee.| Hardy
perennial water plants, of easy culture, propagated by dividing
the roots. They are suited for planting on the margin of a
piece of water, where their bright-coloured blossoms are very
showy. ‘The most ornamental is the double-flowered variety
of our wild species (C. palustris flore-pleno). Though growing
best in the immediate vicinity of water, and most appropriate
for rough scenery, they do very well in other situations if the
soil is damp; and the variety above named is sufficiently
showy to make it worth introducing among hardy perennials
in a mixed border.

CALYCANTHUS. Attispice. [Calycanthaceze.| Hardy
deciduous wall shrubs, remarkable for the fragrant spice-like
odour of their brownish blossoms. Moist, light, loamy garden
soil. Increased by layers. The best are C. floridus, C.
Fragrans, and C. lutea.

CALYSTEGIA. Brarsinp. [Convolvulacee.| Convol-
vulus-like twining or trailing perennial plants, hardy, or
mostly so. Their culture is extremely simple: a fragment
of the perennial root merely requires to be placed in the
ground, and it will soon establish itself, and if not checked,
spread and become a troublesome weed. Sandy loam is most
congenial to them. C. soldanella should be occasionally
watered with salt water, and C. pubescens (double) is worth
a place.

CALYTHRIX. [Chamelauciacee.] Elegant greenhouse
evergreen shrubs. Soil, peat with one-third sandy loam.
Propagated by cuttings in sand, under a bell-glass. C. glabra
and C. virgata flower white.

CAMASSIA. [Lihacee.} A strikingly handsome hardy

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 49

bulb. It grows best in a cool shady peat border, and is
usually increased by offsets C. esculenta, flowers blue, in June.
— CAMELLIA. [Ternstrémiacee.] The Camellia Japonica,
or Japan Rose, is one of the most beautiful of all evergreens
for the greenhouse or conservatory. It propagates freely by
cuttings. The single-flowering kinds are increased in this way
to be used as stocks, on which the finer varieties are multiplied
by grafting, budding, or inarching. Cuttings of the last year’s
wood should be taken about three inches long, cut below a
joint, the lower leaf removed, and then planted firmly in pots
‘of sandy loam: they root most readily with slight bottom
heat. Pot them, when rooted, singly into the smallest-sized
‘pots (sixties), and keep them in a frame well secured from
frost. In this they are kept, being repotted as they require it,
until they are wanted as stocks. The choice varieties should
be kept in very light pits: they are the better for growing
Without artificial heat, but frost must be excluded. After
they have done flowering they should be kept in the green-
house, or in pots properly protected ; or in a canvas house,
which is better than either, until they have made their growth,
‘when a sheltered outdoor situation, free alike from sun and
‘covering, and with plenty of air, will suit them best. At
‘the beginning of September they must be placed in winter
quarters. They like plenty of air at all times; but while
growing it is necessary to keep them from draughts of cold or
drying air, which cause them to curl and become stunted, and
‘so spoil all the beauty of the new growth. Grafting, budding,
and inarching should be done just before the buds start on
the sort to be multiplied, and just as the stock begins its
growth. The proper soil is two-thirds loam, one-sixth turfy
peat, and one-sixth decomposed dung; these should lie to-

ether for some time, out of the reach of heavy rains, and
should be thoroughly mixed. They are readily raised from
‘seed, if the seeds are put in as soon as ripe, and placed in the
greenhouse. When the seedlings have advanced one season,
and the first year’s wood is ripened, the bloom may be very
much hastened by inarching the top upon a strong stock;
but this is only worth doing in the case of such as indicate
noyelty, The plants require to be kept scrupulously clean.
Camellias may be grown against a north wall, in the open air

E

50 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

in the climate of London, provided their roots and stems are
sheltered by a covering of litter or straw. The leading species
are C. reticulata, rose; C. Sasanqua, pink (of this species
there are varieties with double white and double red blos-
soms); C. ochroleuca, yellow; and C. myrtifolia, rose. The
florist varieties are endless.

CAMPANULA. Bett-rtowrr. [Campanulacee.] Very
haridsome herbaceous plants, mostly perennial and hardy.
The annuals should be sown in the borders in March and
April, the seed being verv slightly covered on account of its
small size. The perennial hardy kinds are increased by seeds
or division, and require no peculiar treatment. The biennials
are sown in May and June, for blooming the following year.
Good garden soil suits them all, but it should be rather rich
for the Canterbury Bell. The Chimney Campanula is one of
the most handsome for pot culture, and requires the protec-
tion of a frame or greenhouse. The compost for it should be
Joam from rotted turves one-half, dung from a spent hotbed
one-fourth, and turfy peat one-fourth, well mixed together.
Select a small healthy plant, place it in a four-inch pot, and
grow it inaframe. If it should throw up a stem for bloom
take off the top at once, and when the pot is full of roots
change it for a six-inch pot, using the same kind of compost.
Thus continue to grow it, changing the pot for a larger as
fast as the roots fill up the one it isin. The second season
it may bloom; but continue the changing into larger pots,
and when it is three years old it will produce many spikes of
bloom, which should be spread fan-like on a trellis, and in
this state it completely covers a fireplace or a window with
its numerous beautiful blue flowers. The smaller perennials
make beautiful rock plants. The varieties are numerous,
and all pretty.

CAMPTOSEMA. [{Leguminose, § Papilionaces.] Warm
greenhouse or stove evergreen climbing shrub. Soil, peat
and loam. Increased by cuttings. C. rubicundum is a fine
conservatory climber.

CANARINA. [Campanulacee.] A greenhouse herba-
ceous perennial. Propagated by cuttings or by division,
and growing in a mixture of light peat and loam in about
equal parts. The plants are the better for a little extra

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 51

warmth in the early stages of growth. C. campanulata, flowers
orange, in February.

CANDLEBERRY MYRTLE. See Myrica.

CANDOLLEA. [Dilleniacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. They sometimes ripen seeds, from which young
plants may be raised if they are sown in pots, and kept ina
frame or greenhouse until they vegetate ; or cuttings may be
rooted under a bell-glass. The proper compost is a mixture
of equal parts loam and peat earth, with which an eighth
part of sand may be mixed. They must be grown like other
greenhouse plants as to temperature and air.

CANDYTUFT. See Ineris.

CANNA. Inpian Suor. [Marantacee.] Stove peren-
mial herbs, of considerable stature. ‘The seeds are as large
as sweet peas, and as hard as flint. Stove or hotbed heat is
required to bring up the plants, which are tall, reed-like, with
showy scarlet flowers. They grow well in loam and dung,
and require large pots to grow them successfully. In April
fill some well-drained pots with soil, and sow in them a
couple of seeds, not more than half an inch deep; place
these pots in a hotbed, and in a few days the plants will
shoot up. Let them have water enough to keep them moist,
and as they grow destroy the weakest plant, shifting the
others by removing the balls whole into larger pots; and
having kept them in the hotbed a day or two to establish
them, remove them to the stove, or, if you have not a
Stove, to the greenhouse, where they will perfect their growth,
though not so rapidly as in the stove. They perfect their
seed in this country. The common C. Indica flowers well in
warm situations, planted out in the flower-border, and is
very effective both in its foliage and blossoms: for this
purpose the plants are turned out about the middle of June.
When once reared the plants may be perpetuated by division.

CANNABIS. Hemp. [Urticacee.] Hardy, and an
annual in this country. Though insignificant in its flowers,
the Hemp is yet a stately plant when grown freely, remark-
able for its fine palmate foliage. It merely requires to be
sown in rich garden soil, and the plants allowed to stand out
separately. In wilderness scenery they would have a fine
appearance.

52 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

CANTUA. [Polemoniacee.] Greenhouse shrubs, some
of them of great beauty. Soil, sandy loam and peat. In-
creased by cuttings in sand in a hotbed. The growth must
be well ripened before they will produce blossoms.

CAPE JASMINE. See Garpenta.

CAPE MARIGOLD. See Catenputa.

CAPRIFOLIUM. See Lonicrera.

CAPSICUM. Cart Pepper. [Solanacee.] Annuals
requiring to be raised in heat, and transplanted, for the
warmer months of summer, on to a warm border, or at the
foot of a sunny wall; or shrubs requiring stove temperature.
To the former class belongs the common cultivated Capsicum,
whose ripe and unripe fruit enter variously into domestic
cookery; to the latter belongs the true bird-pepper, or
Chili. Cayenne pepper is made from the fruit of Capsicum
Srutescens. C. grossum is the best for pickling. All these
plants like a rich light soil, and the shrubby ones must be
kept constantly in the stove. The common annual species,
though planted in warm situations in the open air, are brought
to gr eater perfection in a greenhouse or under glass.

CARAGANA, (Leguminosae, § Papilionaceze.} Hand-
some hardy, and chiefly low-growing shrubs, the most in-
teresting of which are kept grafted as standards in the
nurseries, and make beautiful little pendent trees. The
stock used is C. arborescens, which is increased by seeds.
The rest may be increased by layering, and the spreading
sorts are suitable for large rock gardens. Sandy, loamy
soil.

CARDAMINE. Lapy’s Smocr. [Crucifere.} Hardy per-
ennials. Common moist soil. Increased by division. Except
C. pratensis, single and double, they are of little moment ; but
these are ornamental on the margin of ponds.

CARMICHAELIA. ([Leguminose, § Papilionacee.}| A
curious greenhouse shrub. Soil, sandy peat, with a third
fibry loam. Propagated best by seeds. The side-shoots may
be used as cuttings, planted in sand under bell-glasses.

CARNATION. See DianrHus cARYOPHYLLUS.

CAROLINA ALLSPICE. See Catycanruus.

CARRION FLOWER. See Srapecta.

CARTHAMUS. [Composite.] Hardy annuals. They

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 53

are best sown on a gentle hotbed in spring, and transplanted
into the open borders in May. Rich garden soil.

CARUNCULARIA. See Stare ia.

CARYA. Hickory. [Juglandacee.] Hardy deciduous
trees, with elegant pinnated foliage. Increased by seeds
chiefly, and growing in any good garden soil.

CASSANDRA. See ANDROMEDA.

CASSEBEERA. [Polypodiacee.] Handsome ferns. In-
creased readily from the spores. Soil, turfy peat and sand,
with a fourth part loam. The greenhouse kinds are C. has-
tata, OC. intramarginalis, C. pteroides. The stove species of
Cassebeera include some very elegant plants.

CASSIA. [Leguminose, § Cesalpine.| A large genus,
mostly shrubs, requiring stove heat: some of the species
furnish the senna of commerce. They may be raised trom
cuttings, planted in sand under bell-glasses, in a moderate
heat ; and sometimes seeds are produced, from which, if
sown in heat, vigorous plants may be obtained. The com-
post should be of sandy loam and peat mixed in equal pro-
portions. They should not be too much excited, but grown
on slowly. Upwards of two hundred species are known, and
of these about eighty have been introduced.

CASSINE. [Aquifoliacez.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.
Soil, loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings. Chiefly inter-
esting as evergreen bushes.

CASSINIA. [Composite.] Evergreen greenhouse shrubs
with a few exceptions. Soil, loam and peat. Propagated by
seeds, division, or cuttings. C. affinis, white ; C. aurea, yellow ;
C. leptophylla, white; and C. speciosa, yellow, are the best.

CASSIOPE. [Ericacew.] Pretty diminutive heath-like
shrubs, related to Andromeda. Peat soil. A moist, cool,
shady situation. Cuttings or layers.

CASTILLEJA. [Scrophulariacee.] Pretty, but scarcely
cultivable perennials. Sandy peat soil. Increased by seeds
or division of the root.

CATANANCHE. [Composite.] Hardy perennial free-
growing plants, requiring ordinary garden soil. ‘They are
best propagated by seeds, and treated as biennials. C. c@rulea,
flowers blue or white.

CATCHFLY. See SILeng. .

54 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

CATMINT. See Nepera.

CEANOTHUS. [Rhamnacee.] Hardy or half-hardy
evergreen shrubs in so far as concerns all those most worthy
of cultivation. They are particularly suited for planting against
a wall, and are mostly of free growth and neat habit; the
flowers numerous and showy. Propagated either by cuttings,
which should be planted in sandy soil under hand-glasses,
or by layers, which is the readiest way of obtaining strong
plants. Planted against a wall or close fence, and trained
over the surface, a considerable space will soon be covered by
the numerous evergreen branches. They are not particular
as to soil, but grow well in sandy loam; and, not being per-
fectly hardy, the situation ought to be a well-drained one.
The Californian species may be considered as hardy in mild
or even ordinary winters. C. azureus, pale blue; C. dentatus,
blue; C-. pallidus, pale blue; C. papillosus, violet blue; C.
rigidus, blue; C. verrucosus, hardy evergreen shrub, pale
violet blue, are all worth growing.

CEDRONELLA. [Lamiacee.] Half-hardy and green-
house perennials, with long spikes of showy blossoms, growing
in light loamy soil. Increased by seeds. They require to be
kept dryish in winter, and should be protected in frames.
One species, C. triphylla (formerly called Dracocephalum Cana-
riense), is a greenhouse soft-wooded shrub, and grows freely
in light loamy soil, and is increased by cuttings. It is a
favourite on account of the balm-like scent of its leaves.

CEDRUS. Cepar. ([Conifere.] Hardy evergreen
trees, growing in good loamy soil, and increased by seeds, or
the rarer kinds by grafting. Ornamental. TREES. —C. Afri-
canus (Mount Atlas Cedar). C. deodara (the Deodar). C.
Libani (Cedar of Lebanon). They are, perhaps, all varieties
of one species, though sufficiently distinct for planting. U.
deodara robusta, C. crassifolia, and C. viridis are, perhaps,
distinct, and all beautiful.

CELOSIA. Cocxscoms. [Amaranthacee.] The C.
cristata, or Cockscomb, is a favourite old annual, taking its
name from the extraordinary similitude of a small head of
bloom to the comb of the domestic fowl. The plants require
a hotbed to grow them to perfection; and he succeeds best,
according to ordinary notions, who brings the flower-head the

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 90

largest. The seeds may be sown in March in a pot, and
placed in the hotved frame, where they are not long coming
‘up: when four leaves are grown they may be potted singly
‘into small sixty-sized pots, and, after having a little water to
settle the roots, are to be replaced in the hotbed, moderately
‘watered, and kept near the glass. By keeping them dry the
plants get stunted, and the flower-heads soon show themselves.
When these are first seen on the miserable-looking, halt-
starved plants, one would not fancy they could be brought to
‘a showy state; but, to effect this, rich loam and dung are
employed in equal quantities, and these diminutive plants are
potted singly in pots of the thirty-two size, plenty of water is
given, and the tops of the plants are brought up as close to the
glass as possible. ‘The heat of the bed is to be kept up to
about 70° or 80° by day. The plants must not be allowed
to touch the glass on any account. They will grow rapidly
until they are too large for the pots, which must be then
changed for larger sizes. If the plants were grown fast from
the first, they would probably be eighteen inches or two feet
high before the flower-heads appeared ; but, by starving them
till they show the flower, they do not afterwards grow much
in height, but th> flower-heads or combs will be enlarging
from day to day, and will come very perfect specimeus
with care and attention. The other kinds are of less impoit-
ance.

CELSIA. [Scrophulariacee.} Half-hardy showy biennials,
of spiry habit. hey may be sown in June in the open borders,
and thinned out for flowering, or raised in nursery-beds and
transplanted. They are hardy in light dry soils aud favourable
situations, but in cold, unfavourable places should be shel-
tered in a frame during winter. C. orientalis is a hardy
annual.

CENTAUREA. Cenxraury. ([Composite.] A _ large
family, mostly hardy perennials, but including several hardy
annuals. Some of them are showy plants for a mixed flower-
border, but generally they do not rank high in modern gar-
dens. The exceptions to this are principally among the
annuals. These may either be sown in the open border
about the end of March, and the plants thinned out subse-
quently to three or four in a patch, to be left for blooming,

56 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

or they may be sown with other annuals in a seed-bed, or in
pots, for facility of transplantation, in the latter case being
sown somewhat earlier, and coming earlier into flower. They
bloom from June more or less onwards to September. The
very numerous hardy perennial kinds, any of which are
worth growing as common border flowers, grow well in the
common soil of gardens, and are increased by division.

CENTRANTHUS. [Valerianacee.] Ornamental hardy
perennials or annuals. The perennials are best raised from
seeds, for, having but few thick woody roots, they do not well
divide, like many other hardy perennials. The seeds should
be sown in May on a bed of light, not over-rich soil, from
which they may be transplanted to a nursery-bed as soon as
large enough to handle, and will be fit to be transplanted in
the autumn into the positions in which they are required to
bloom the following year. Grows readily in common light
garden soil. The annuals require to be sown in the open
border in March or April, and like a rather moist soil.

CENTROCARPHA. [Composite.] Showy hardy per-
ennials, requiring good light garden soil, and increased by
root division.

CEPHALANTHERA. [Orchidacee.| Hardy herbaceous
perennials. Peat and loam. Propagated by division.

CEPHALOTAXUS. [Taxacee.] Hardy evergreen orna-
mental tree, of yew-like appearance. Loam. Increased by
grafting, or by seeds when obtainable. The only one grown
is C. Fortunt.

CEPHALOTUS. New Hoxtzianp Pircuer-piant. ([Ce-
phalotacee.] This is a dwarf, herb, among whose leaves,
forming a tuft close to the ground, grow the curiously-formed
bodies called pitchers, which constitute the chief interest of
the plant, the flowers being small, and growing in a grass-like
spike. It requires a temperature warmer than a greenhouse,
and does very well ina stove, if not kept there in too hot
and close a situation. It should be potted in chopped sphag-
num and sand, and should be kept constantly wet, as it grows
naturally in bogey situations. The tendency of this treatment
being to souse and consolidate the soil, it should now and
then be repotted in entirely fresh ‘soil, so as to keep the
latter in an open, healthy condition. If kept in any structure

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 57

that is much ventilated it should be covered with a bell-glass,
which may be removed at night when the house is closed.
CERASTIUM. ([Caryophyllacee.] Hardy perennials, of
the simplest culture, propagating extensively by division, and
‘spreading widely in dense masses over the ground. The
llarger-flowered species are desirable for. rockwork. Among
these are C. alpinum, C. Biebersteinit, C. glaciale, C. qrandi-
| florum, C. lanatum, C. latifolium, and C. tomentosum, all
of which are worth a place in ruins, &. ORNAMENTAL
+Surups.—C. lawrocerasus, the common Laurel, well known
ras one of the best of all evergreens; and in early spring
(this, when it attaims size and age, is furnished with long
spikes of white blossoms, of which bees are fond. C.
)Lusitanica, the Portuguese Laurel, which, besides its
ordinary use as an ornamental evergreen, is sometimes
trained up formally with a straight bare stem, and a thick
‘round head of branches like the orange tree, which it much
‘resembles: in this state it may be made to impart to small
‘garden plots that exotic effect which in princely gardens is
obtaimed by the use of orange trees, and it becomes a
‘substitute for these in winter.

CERASUS. Cuerry. [Rosacee.] The ornamental part
‘of this genus comprises early-flowering trees and favourite
‘evergreen shrubs. All free-growing plants in good garden
soil, and propagated by seeds, by layers, or by budding. By
-some these are all included under Prunus.

| CERATOSTEMA. [Vacciniacee.| Beautiful evergreen
greenhouse shrubs. Peat and loam. Cuttings.

CERCIS. Jupas Trer. {Leguminose, § Cassiee.] Deci-
duous small trees, forming beautiful objects when in Hower,
the blossoms being produced before the leaves, and appearing
| about the same time as those of the Laburnum, the Guelder
| Rose, and the Hawthorn, with which they contrast admirably.
| | They prefer a rather rich loamy soil, and require a sheltered
‘situation. In many places they are planted against walls,
} which situation they well deserve. The seeds are sown in
| the spring, and produce plants which come to bloom im three
or four years. The young plants require protection.
CEREUS. Torcs TuistiE [Cactacee.] A large family
of succulent plants, better known by the mame of Cactus.

58 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

They are grotesque looking objects when out of flower, having
fleshy, more or less angular, lengthened stems, in which
latter particular they differ from the Echinocacti and Melo-
cacti, which are distinguished as ‘‘ dwarf Cacti.” The most
gaudy of the genus is the Cereus speciosissimus, which has
large splendid blossoms of a rich crimson scarlet, with a
violaceous tint on the inner petals: the plants grow from
five to eight or ten feet high, though they blossom when much
smaller. C. grandiflorus has large yellowish-white flowers,
that expand only at night. C. flagelliformis, the creeping
Cereus, with its long, slender, drooping, tail-like stems, is
another favourite. As objects of curiosity, C. senilis, the
Old-man Cactus, which has a short, stout, upright, oblong
stem, covered over with dense, hair-like, greyish, hanging
bristles, like the grey head of an old man; C. monstrosus, an
irregular fleshy mass, almost like a green rock; and C. hewa-
gonus, a stout, erect species, attaining considerable height,
and, when large, very remarkable, from its column-like ap-
pearance, may be specially mentioned. The soil best suited
for these is two parts peat, one part broken potsherds, sifted
through a coarse sieve, one part loam or old mortar rubbish,
and one part dung; these all mixed well together, and perfect
drainage secured. The plants should stand out of doors, in
a sheltered situation, from the time they have done flowering
till September, and then he removed to the greenhouse, all
the parts of shoots that have no bloom-buds being cut back
to just beyond the buds. If whole shoots are without these
buds, and the shoot is not wanted to form a weil-shaped
plant, remove them, and cut back all those that spring out
of the main stem to three bloom-buds, or, if they have none,
to within two inches of the main stem. The plants should
be confined to half a dozen or eight main stems, and while
these are in health and vigour let none come up from the
bottom: those that grow from the sides may be saved just
so far as they have bloom, until the flowering is over, and
should then be cut away within two inches of the stem. This
mode of pruning will be proper for C. speciosissimus and those
of similar habits. The C. flagelliformis is always best grown
with the long slender branches drooping over the edge of the
pot, and requires no pruning. The plants should be without

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. a9

water from September. till March; and when the buds begin
to swell, water them, remove them to the coolest part of the
stove, and there let them begin to open their flowers, which
they may complete in the conservatory. While out of doors
they are best under a south wall or some sheltered situation,
where they may have all the sun: while there they will
rarely want any water except in long-continued dry weather.
Cuttings root so freely that if bits are left on the soil they
will strike into it from the sides; they are, however, gene-
rally taken at the trimming time, and, after drying the cut
end, put in a pot, to be only removed as they want more
room. C. grandiflorus, the night-blooming Cereus, may be
treated in a similar way in all respects; but until it gets
pretty old it seldom flowers. Continue growing and shifting
as it fills the pots, and when large enough let it remain till
it flowers. The stems are often trained up the wall of the
hothouse ; but the plants are better in the greenhouse at rest,
without water, from the time the year’s growth is complete
to the time the buds swell, when they should be trimmed
back to the buds, and removed to a higher temperature ; or,
if they are trained on a wall, it ought to be in a conservatory,
not so cold as a greenhouse, nor so warm asastove. The
creeping Cereus should be set ona shelf, or suspended, so that
its long flail-like shoots may hang downward: they Hower
generally at the top, and, being altogether smaller, do not
require such large pots as the others. This sort does well im
the window of a living-room. The curious species may be
potted in moderate-sized, well-drained pots of loam and broken
crocks or old mortar, and require but little water, and seldom
to be shifted. All the Cereuses may be kept in a dry warm
greenhouse in winter, but do best when they have the warmth
of a stove during the growing period.

CERINTHE. Hownryworr. [Boraginaceze.} Hardy an-
nuals of coarse habit, requiring to be sown in March where
they are to flower, and thinned out to three or four plants in
a patch as soon as they are large enough to set crowded.
Common soil,

CEROPEGIA. [Asclepiadacee.] Succulent greenhouse
and stove plants, more curious than beautiful.

CESTRUM. ([Solanacee.] Greenhouse shrubs, few of

60 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

which are of much horticultural importance. C. aurantiacum
is an. exception, its showy orange-coloured flowers being suc-
ceeded in winter by ornamental white berries. They increase
readily by cuttings in a gentle heat, and the plants grow
freely in rich loamy soil, or planted out in the border of a
conservatory, for which they are well adapted. Some botanists
include Habrothamnus in this genus.

CHASNOSTOMA [Scrophulariaceze.] The C. polyantha
is a very pretty plant for the decoration of the flower garden
during summer ; it is half hardy, requiring to be kept during
winter in a greenhouse, or in a dry frame secure against frost,
and in summer may be planted out in a warm sunny situation,
in light, moderately rich soil. It is readily raised from seeds
in spring, and may also be increased by cuttings during
summer. The flowers are small but numerous. The other
perennial species are to be treated similarly. The annuals
must be raised in heat in March, and planted ont in June.

CHATOGASTRA. [Melastomacer.}] Warm greenhouse
or stove shrubs, with pretty blossoms. C. strigosa, a slender
twiggy plant, with pretty rose-coloured flowers, may be suc-
cessfully grown in a warm greenhouse, under the management
recommended for MrLastoma, only, being quite a small plant,
it will not require shifting into pots of so large a size. ‘The
soil for this should be rather sandy peat.

CHAMAELAUCIUM. [Myrtaceze.} Beautiful greenhouse
shrub, with fringed flowers, whence the name of Fringe Myr-
tles has been given to this group. Turfy peat soil and sandy
loam in equal parts. Propagated by cuttings in sand under
bell-glasses. C. ciliatum, flowers white, in May.

CHAMAINERION. ([Lythracexw.| Hardy ornamental
herbaceous perennials, of the easiest culture in the open
ground: formerly called Epilobiums. ‘They increase with
facility by division of the root.

CHAMASRHODOS. [Rosacee.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials. Sandy loam; dry, cold situation. Increased by seeds.

CHAMAEROPS. [Palmacee.] A genus of palms, of which
C. humilis, the dwarf Fan Palm, is suitable for small gardens,
and may be kept without difficulty by those who have a green-
house. These plants grow with an upright stem, which
gradually lengthens, but in cultivation is many years before it

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 61

attains even a yard in height. At the top of the stem is a
head of leaves, or fronds, which are shaped and plaited like a
fan. It is this singular form of the leaves which renders the
plants so remarkable in appearance. ‘The flowers are insig-
nificant. The plant should be grown im turfy loam, peat
earth, and rotten dung in equal parts; and being coarse- rooted,
it requires considerable scope for its roots; in fact, the plants
soon get too many roots fora garden-pot, and require to be
planted in tubs. When they get to a comparatively large
size they will stand for several years with little attention
besides watering and top-dressing. Under cultivation they
seldom furnish materials for propagation, and are propagated
mostly by imported seeds. There are several other sorts.

CHARLWOODIA. — [Liliacew.] Greenhouse shrubs,
with a slender Yucca-like habit. ‘They are raised from the
side-shoots thrown out when the plant flowers, or the centre
is artificially destroyed, or from suckers. ‘These shoots are
to be taken off when a little hardened, and planted singly in
moderate-sized pots of sandy soil like cuttings, and kept
close and rather dry in a frame until rooted. Established
plants are grown in peat and loam, and shifted into larger
pots from size to size as they advance. Now by some united
with CorDYLINE.

CHEILANTHES. ([Polypodiacez.}] Very interesting
small ferns, including hardy greenhouse and stove species : of
the two former groups but few are in cultivation. Peat and
loam. Propagated by division. ‘The principal are C. hirta,
C. micromera, C. micropteris, C. odora, U. profusa, C. pteroides,
C. rufescens, C’. tenuifolia, and C. vestita.

CHEIRANTHUS. Wattriower. ([Crucifere.] Hardy
perennials, of somewhat shrubby habit. C. Cheiri, the well-
known common Wallflower, has produced various handsome
double-flowered varieties, of which the best are the bright
yellow, dark brown, and purple. The common single kind is
grown abundantly in most flower-borders, and bears its yellow
or brownish blossoms freely in April and May, on plants
reared from seeds sown in May of the previous year. The
seeds should be sown in a bed of light, or rather sandy soil,
and the plants pricked out, when large enough, into a nursery-
bed, from whence they may be transplanted, with compact

(2 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

balls of earth about their roots, in the early part of autumn,
into the places where they are to flower. When the plants
live over to a second year they are larger; but in general the
one-year-old plants are preferable. The double varieties are
increased by cuttings, planted under a hand-glass in sandy
earth about May or June; and are best potted, and protected
through the winter in cold frames, though sometimes esta-
blished plants will survive the winter if exposed. The other
species furnish beautiful dwarf plants, suitable for rockwork,
or small beds, or the front parts of borders: quite hardy, and
increased by cuttings. C. mutabilis is a tall, rather straggling
shrub, which has changeable purplish single flowers, and
requires the protection of a frame or cool greenhouse. C.
Marshallii. hardy herbaceous perennial; flowers deep orange.

CHELONE. ([Scrophulariacee.] Beautiful herbaceous
perennials, closely allied to Pentstemon, and requiring similar
treatment.

CHERRY. See Crrasovs.

CHILI PEPPER. See Capsicum.

CHILODIA. [Lamiacex.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.
Soil, peat and loam. Increased by cuttings in sand under
bell-glasses. C. scutellarioides, flowers violet, at various
seasons.

CHIMAPHILA. [Pyrolacee.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials, requiring sandy peat soil, shade, a cool situation, and
abundant moisture. Increased by suckers and division. C.
corymbosa, flowers white; and C. maculata, flowers pink.

CHIMONANTHUS. Japan Attspice. [Calycanthacez.]
A deliciously fragrant hardy shrub, of which there are three
varieties, one or the other of which ought to be in every gar-
den for the sake of the aroma of the blossoms produced on
the leafless branches in the dead of winter : the flowers of all
the varieties are of some dull shade of yellow, not showy.
They are free-growing shrubs in moderately good soil, and
require to be planted by, and trained to, a wall. They must be
pruned, so as to preserve annually as much of the young wood
as can be trained in at about six inches apart; the rest may
be spurred in. As the blossoms are developed in December
and the succeeding months, it is desirable to screen them
from any nipping frosts that may occur at that season. It is

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 63

a shrub in every way suited to train about the windows of a
dwelling. Young plants are obtained by means of layering,
and they require a little extra protection when young. C.
Jragrans, flowers yellow and brown. C. macrophylla is also a
favourite.

CHINA-ASTER. See CatnisTEruts.

CHINESE HOLLYHOCK. AtrH#a Srvnensis. An
annual, rarely growing more than three feet high—a Holly-
hock in miniature.

CHINESE PINK. See Dianruus CaINEnsis.

CHINESE PRIMROSE. See Primuta.

CHIONANTHUS. Frince Tree. ([Oleacee.] Fine
hardy deciduous small trees or shrubs. Soil, peat earth, in
damp situations. Propagated by seeds or layers.

CHIRITA. ([Gesneracee.} A genus of stove her-
baceous plants, but including one species which will suc-
ceed in a greenhouse. It should have turfy peat soil, and
should be kept close in a moist atmosphere, such as a
Wardian case affords. Increased by cuttings of the leaves
or division.

CHIRONIA. [Gentianacee.] Greenhouse soft-wooded
shrubs, of a very ornamental character. They are propagated
without difficulty by cuttings planted in sand, and put in a
warm frame till rooted, and when established should be
grown in roughish sandy soil, composed of three-fourths peat
to one-fourth loam, with a considerable admixture of pure
sand. The pots must be well drained, and should not be
over large. Considerable care is requisite not to over-water,
especially in winter. The best are C. decussata, rose pink ;
C. glutinosa, rose pink; C. jasminoides, purple red; and C.
peduncularis.

CHLIDANTHUS. [Amaryllidacez.] A half-hardy bulb-
ous plant, with fragrant blossoms. Soil, rich light loam.
Propagated by offsets. The bulbs require to be kept dry in
winter,

CHONEMORPHA. [Apocynacee.] Stove climbing
shrubs, related to Echites, and requiring similar treatment.
C. grandiflora, pink ; and C. pubescens, white, are the best.

CHORETUS. [Amaryllidacee.] A beautiful half-hardy
bulb, requiring to rest dry during winter, and to enjoy a high

64 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

summer temperature. Soil, sandy loam. Propagated by
offsets,

CHOROZEMA. ([Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Beau-
tiful evergreen greenhouse shrubs, requiring care in their cul-
tivation. They are propagated by seed or by cuttings; the
latter should be selected from the unblooming shoots. two
inches of the top being taken off at a joint, and the lower
leaves removed. Fill up a pot to within three-quarters of an
inch of the top: thus put two inches of broken potsherds in
the bottom as drainage, over this an inch of rough turfy soil,
aud the rest with a mixture of two parts peat, one of light
loam, and one of silver sand; press this firm, and, after
levellirg it, put three-quarters of an inch of silver sand on
the top, and let this be thoroughly wetted; with a little
pointed stick insert the cuttings, so that they touch the soil
beneath the sand, and fix them quite firm by pressing the
sand closely around them with the point of the stick. When
they are all planted sprinkle them with water through a very
finely-pierced rose of a watering-pot, so as to settle the sand
close’ about them; let them dry for an hour or so in the
shade, and then put a bell-glass over, and place the pot in a
declining hotbed, or on the tan of a propagating house: the
class must be wiped every morning, and the cuttings just
kept moist. They will soon begin fis crow, and hee rooted
they may be potted into the smallest-sized pots, in soil like
that used to fill the cutting-pot. They must be gradually
exposed to the greenhouse atmosphere. Seeds may be sown
in the spring in wide-mouthed pots; and as soon as the plants
are large enough they should be potted singly, and treated as
cuttings that have struck root. They should, on all occa-
sions, have all the air that can be safely given, even in winter.
The best of this genus are C. flavum, pale yellow; C. Hench-
manni, scarlet ; C. ilicifolium, orange scarlet; C. Lawrenceanun,
orange red; C. spectabile, orange and red; C. varium, orange
and crimson.

CHRISTMAS ROSE. See HenLeporus NIGER.

CHRYSANTHEMUM. Gotpen Fiowrer. [Composite.]
A genus of hardy annuals, and perennials, and greenhouse
shrubs of small importance. The annuals, though free-
growing plants, have a strong chamomile smell, and are poor

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 65

and vulgar in their flowers, though still grown among collec-
tions of annuals.

CHRYSANTHEMUM SINENSE. See Pyretarum
SINENSE.

CHRYSEIS. See Escuscuourzta.

CHRYSOCOMA. Gotpy-Locks. [Composite.] A genus
of hardy, herbaceous, and greenhouse evergreen species. The
former grow in common soil, and are increased by division ;
the latter prefer light sandy loam, and are increased by cut-
tings. They are not very showy.

CHRYSOSTEMMA. ([Composite.] Hardy herbaceous
perennials, with showy flowers. Common garden soil. In-
creased by division. C. tripteris, flowers yellow.

CHYMOCARPUS. See Tropzoium.

CIBOTIUM. [Polypodiacee.] A very handsome large
fern, which may be cultivated in a warm, close greenhouse.
Soil, turfy peat. Increased sparingly by division. The only
one is C. Baromez.

CINERARIA. See Senecio.

CINQUEFOIL. See Porenri.ya.

CIRCAIA. Ewycuanter’s NicursHaDE. ([Onagracee.]
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Common soil. Increased by
division.

CIRSIUM. [Composite.] Hardy thistle-like biennials
and perennials, some of them showy. Common soil. In.
creased by division; or the biennials by seed, from which
plants should be raised annually. Some few of the species,
among which is C. Cassabone, one of the most ornamental
species, require protection.

CISTUS. Rock Rosz. ([Cistacee.] The Rock Roses
are remarkable for brilliant but evanescent flowers. Never-
theless, these plants, which form compact evergreen, though
scarcely hardy shrubs, are very gay subjects for rockwork
or sunny spots, on account of the profusion of blossoms they
bear during the hot weather of summer. They are increased
by cuttings, which should be planted in spring, under hand.
glasses, in sandy soil; and the plants, when rooted, ought to
be kept m pots, and shifted from time to time until they can
be planted where they are to remain. There is an advantage
in having the young plants in pots, as the protection which

F

66 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

is essential during the winter months can be more readily
given them. The amount of protection they receive in winter
must depend on the locality and the severity of the season:
they will not bear much frost without injury. They require
a dry and well-drained, sandy, loamy soil, and such a situation
as is afforded. by a piece of exposed rockwork: in such situ-
ations, too, on account of their slower growth, they experience
a minimum of injury from cold. Two-year-old plants are
the handsomest, unless the older ones escape uninjured by
frosts.

CITRUS. Orance. [Aurantiacee.| Well-known and
favourite greenhouse evergreen shrubs or small trees, culti-
vated for the sake of their highly fragrant flowers, their richly-
coloured fruit, and the generally interesting appearance of
their habit of growth. These trees all require essentially
the same treatment. Pot or tub them in a compost of mellow
loam from rotted turves, mixed with half its quantity of
decomposed cowdung, and a sixth part of coarse gritty sand.
Place them in the open air from the latter part of July till
the beginning of September, giving them plenty of water and
an occasional syringe over the foliage with a garden engine
and fine rose. House them early in September, and take
care they do not have too much water during winter. April
is the best month to shift their tubs or pots. Large plants
in tubs require an annual dressing; part of the surface soil
should be taken off, and replaced with fresh compost, and in
the spring a little liquid manure made from sheep's dung is
beneficial. Cuttings strike freely, but it is better to raise
stocks from seed, and graft the fine varieties upon them.
The grafting may be done in any fashion, so that the cut part
of the stock and the cut part of the scion fit closely, and the
barks meet on one side. ‘They may be grafted by inarching,
as Camellias are done, or cleft-grafted like the Rose, or spliced
like a broken stick. When done by inarching, a strong neat
branching bit of the tree may be taken, and with fruit already
on it; so that a tree is formed as soon as the stock and the
head are united. When they are inarched it is chiefly done
for the sake of making very dwarf plants, and having them
very soon ready for sale or use, the stock being worked as
close down to the surface as possible. The Otaheite Orange

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 67

is the best for a small greenhouse, as it blooms very freely,
and never gets to a large size. There are numerous varieties
of the various kinds of Orange. The following are popular :—
C. awrantium, C. decumana, U. limetta, C. limonum, C. Medica,
CU. nobilis, and C. vulgaris.

CLADANTHUS. [Composite.] A small genus, con-
taining one pretty hardy annual, C. Arabicus, which should be
sown in the open border in March, and again in April; or,
to have earlier-blooming plants, it may be sown in frames in
the former mouth.

CLARKIA. [Onagracee.] Showy free-flowering annuals:
the flowers are of a singular form, like a fanciful cross. They
are sown in the open border with other annuals in April, or
in pots in February, to be ready to turn out in May almost
in a flowering state: half a dozen plants in a patch are
enough. The common soil of the garden, not very rich, is
best for them ; for the less luxuriant the foliage grows, the
better the plant looks, although it is then smaller. Those
sown in pots must be placed in a frame, and thinned so that
not more than half a dozen should be left growing in the
pot: in May they may be turned out into the borders,
without disturbing the balls of earth. The plants bloom
from May onwards, according to the time of sowing.

CLAYTONIA. ([Portulacee.] Hardy annuals and
tuberous-rooted perennials, not very showy. Common soil.
Increased by seeds or by division.

CLEMATIS. Vircin’s Bower. [Ranunculacee.] A
large genus of climbing shrubs, some of which are very orna-
mental. The hardy kinds are of the simplest culture ; they
are raised from seeds or layers, and grow freely in any mode-
rately good ground. They are valuable for covering walls,
arbours, trellis-work, &c. The half-hardy kinds are proper
for the pillars and rafters of greenhouses and cool conserva-
tories. The stove species are of little importance. C. Stie-
bold, C. caerulea, C. graveolens, and C. Hendersonii, are
worthy of being grown on a large pot trellis, and are manage-
able in that form. The genus contains some hardy perennials,
which are managed like other herbaceous perennials. The
principal varieties are C. c@rulea, bluish lilac ; C. flammula,
C. lanuginosa, and C. montana.

68 ; GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

CLEOME. [Capparidacee.] This genus contains several
curious and rather pretty annuals. They should be raised
from seeds in spring, in a frame, with slight warmth, potted
off singly, and hardened subsequently, so as to be planted out
in May, when they should be strong, vigorous plants. They
like a dry, warm situation. One or two species are stove
soft-wooded shrubs, and there are some stove annual species,
but they are not suitable for general cultivation.

CLERODENDRON. [Verbenacew.| Stove shrubs, some
of which are very showy. Cuttings, which should be chosen
from the unblooming side-shoots, root freely in sandy soil,
with bottom heat. The soil for the established plants should
be loam, peat, and dung, equal parts. They must be shifted
from small to larger pots as they advance, until the plant fills
a pot twelve inches diameter, when it will bloom finely.
Afterwards the plants must be cut close down annually,
disrooted, started in bottom heat, and shifted on as they
advance. They are noble-looking bushes, many of them
crowned, when in blossom, with a large pyramidal panicle of
brilliant scarlet flowers, which last for a long time in beauty,
if not then kept too hot and close. C. fragrans flore-pleno
is desirable on account of the rich fragrance of its blush-
coloured heads of blossoms. C. splendens and some others
are fine evergreen stove climbers: these latter must not be
cut down annually like the others. They all require plenty
of nourishment while growing.

CLETHRA. [Ericacee.} Hardy and greenhouse shrubs
and trees, of which the C. arborea, a greenhouse species, with
bright rich-looking foliage, and spikes of blooms like the Lily
of the Valley, is the only important species. There is hardly
a prettier greenhouse tree than this, and it wants no more
than to be just kept from the frost The proper soil is peat
two-thirds, light loam one-third, with sand added. As soon
as it has attained a moderate size, and filled a six-inch pot,
it will begin to flower. It must, however, be recollected that,
if kept growing by constant shifting, it will not bloom abun-
dantly until it gets to a much larger size; but if the pot is
pretty full of root it will flower abundantly. Cuttings strike
freely in sandy soil, put in a little warmth, and when struck
merely require potting from one size to another till of a

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 69

flowering size. The hardy ones will grow anywhere, and only
require planting in peat soil.

CLIANTHUS. Gtory Pea. {Leguminose, § Papilionacee. ]
Free-growing evergreen greenhouse shrubs. Propagated by
cuttings in sand on bottom heat. The cuttings, when rooted,
should be kept in small pots until well established ; after-
wards shift moderately until the plants are as large as can
be accommodated, when it is better to renew them. ‘The soil
should be loam and peat in equal parts, with one-sixth sand.
C. puniceus is of rather straggling habit, but sufficiently
sturdy to train into a bush if kept constantly topped while
young. It can be grown in a pot, on a pillar trellis as large
as the pot all the way up, but it is far better trained against
a wall.

CLINTONIA. [Lobeliacew.] Very pretty hardy annuals.
They are slender-growing dwarf plants, hanging over the
edges of the pots, if grown in pots, but forming very beau-
tiful objects on the ground, being so much covered with
blooms as to hide the stems. Sow the seeds in pots in March ;
put them in a frame—if with a little warmth so much the
better; set them in feeders of water until germinated, then
thin the plants so as to give them room, and keep them
growing in frames till May, when those for the borders may
be turned out: they will very soon flower, and have a very
pretty appearance. To provide a succession, some should be
sown in the borders about April; these will flower when
those of the first sowing leave off. Many annuals may thus
be managed, so as to keep up a succession of bloom during
several months, by sowing at different seasons. C. pulchella,
the best of the two species, is a much more interesting object
for pot culture than nine-tenths of the plants grown in pots.
Peaty soil, or a light mixture of leaf-mould, loam, and sand,
is most proper for them. ;

CLIVIA. [Amaryllidacee.} A handsome warm green-
house perennial, with thick fleshy roots. Propagated by
division. Soil, rich sandy loam.» C. nobilis, flowers red and
yellow. |

CLOVER. See Trirotium.

CLUB-MOSS. See Lycopopium.

COBASA. ([Polemoniacee.] Greenhouse or half-hardy

70 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

rapid-growing climbers, covering a large space during the
summer season with their herbaceous stems, which, in a
greenhouse or conservatory, retain their foliage, and continue
to blossom through the winter. They are very useful as well
as ornamental out of doors during the summer season, but in
such situations are killed by frosts. When grown in a green-
house they generally ripen plenty of seeds, by which they
are best propagated, though they may be increased by
cuttings. They require a rich loamy soil. C. scandens is
chiefly grown.

COBURGHIA. [Amaryllidacee.] Fine greenhouse bulbs,
agreeing in treatment with Phycella and the allied genera ;
that is, they require a rich loamy soil, and a warm sunny
situation during summer, and to be kept dry and from frost
in winter. Increased by division.

COCKSCOMB. See Crtosta.

CQZLESTINA. ([Composite.] C. ageratoides, formerly
known as Ageratum celestinum, is a half-hardy sub-shrubby
plant, useful for the decoration of the flower garden in sum-
mer. ‘The plant should be raised from cuttings in July or
August, potted into single pots, and kept through the winter
in a dryish greenhouse, where abundance of air is admitted
in all mild weather, and frost is by any means excluded:
they may be kept in small pots, on shelves near the glass.
In February they should be shifted into pots a size larger,
and may be removed to shallow frames as soon as these are
a safe protection against frost. In such frames they get more
perfectly exposed to light and air, and are thus the better
prepared for planting out. In May the plants must be
thoroughly hardened to bear the open air without protection,
and towards the end of that month they may be planted out.

COLCHICUM. Merapow Sarrron. [Melanthacee. |}
Hardy bulbs, pushing up their Crocus-like flowers just above
ground in autumn, whence they are sometimes called autumn
Crocuses: the leaves are not produced with the flowers, but
appear in spring. They are pretty either for patches in the
mixed flower-border, or as an edging. They increase hy
offsets or by seeds, the latter sown as soon as ripe, and
allowed two seasons’ growth in the seed-bed, and then the
strongest planted out for blooming. Offsets should be planted!

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 71

in a nursery-bed, to acquire blooming strength. The bulbs
do not require to be taken out of the ground, except for the
purpose of replanting; and this should be done in June or
July, while they are quite dormant. In planting the bulbs
may be set about three inches under the surface. They grow
best in light loam. They are desirable from the freshness
and spring-like nature of their growth, when vegetation
generally is beginning to languish. For ornamental pur-
poses, preference should be given to the double-flowered
variety.

COLEONEMA. [Rutacee.] Elegant greenhouse ever-
green shrubs, formerly associated with Diosma, and requiring
the same kind of treatment. Soil, sandy peat. Propagated
by cuttings in sand under a bell-glass. C. rubra and C.
gracilis are the best.

COLLANIA. [Amaryllidacee.] Beautiful fleshy-rooted
greenhouse herbaceous perennial, related to Alstrémeria. Soil,
peat and loam. Increased by division.

COLLINSIA. ([Scrophulariacez.| Pretty dwarf annuals.
C. bicolor, a very showy plant in clumps, where it is to be
conspicuous in three or four parts of a figure. The culture
is simple ; in ordinary cases the seeds may be sown in patches
in the borders in March, April, and May: eight or ten plants
will be sufficient to form a patch. When they are to form
a mass of flowers, as in the parts of a geometrical garden,
they ought to be not more than three inches apart. For this
it is best to sow thinly where they are to flower, and when
they are up, thin the plants, so that they may be from two
to three inches from each other: this gives the appearance of
a complete mass of flowers when the spikes of bloom rise.
Sowing in pots should be begun in March, and eight or ten
plants are enough fora pot. These should be placed in a
greenhouse, and as they grow, if any two should be too close
together, remove one. Where patches of this flower are to be
at certain distances round borders, the balls may be turned
out from the pots as soon as the weather will be secure.
If this cannot be done they must be sown on a reserve bed,
and transplanted when large enough, or else raised and kept
in pots till they are wanted; for either of which purposes
they should be sown in March on a very gentle hotbed, and

72 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

protected slightly during April, and if needful the early part
of May. C. grandiflora is a dwarfish variety. equally pretty,
though different from bicolor. It grows six inches high,
spreading on the ground instead of growing erect; flowers
rose purple and bright lilac in June. There are several other
pretty kinds, but differing only in their colours; and every
year will add to the number of varieties, which will in time
perhaps become, like Larkspurs, most interesting in mixtures.

COLLOMIA. [Polemoniacez.| Hardy annuals, allied to
Gilia, of very free growth. Common garden soil. The first
sowing should be in March, and the next in May, in the
open border, and the plants must be thinned while quite
small, that they may have room to grow strong and bushy.

COLUTEA. Brapper Senna. [Leguminose, § Papi-
lionacee.] Deciduous shrubs. Common soil. Increased by
seeds or layers.

COMAROSTAPHYLIS. Grirperry. [Ericacee.] Ever-
ereen shrubs, bearing succulent edible fruits. Peat and loam
soil. Increased by seeds, by cuttings in autumn, or by grafting
on Arbutus.

COMBRETUM. ([Combretacee.] Beautiful climbing
stove shrubs. They grow best in loam and peat, and may be
flowered in pots on a trellis, or planted out in the stove,
to climb up the walls or along the roof. The cuttings are
rooted in sand, and potted off into small pots, which are
allowed to be quite filled with roots before they are changed,
so as to give the plant a kind of check before they shift; for
this induces it to flower when of smaller size, and therefore
while it is more manageable in a pot. They are rambling
plants if allowed to grow rapidly under excitement. By this
caution we may flower the Combretums on a trellis four feet
high, whereas they may be made to cover a house. C. Pince-
anum, flowers purple red; and C. purpureum, a rich crimson.

COMMELINA. [Commelinee.] Perennials, including
tuberous-rooted and evergreen trailing, as well as stove, green-
house, and hardy species. The tuberous-rooted sorts are the
most useful for the garden; they grow well in rich peat soil,
but do not refuse to flourish in good light garden soil. The
tubers should be taken up in winter, and preserved in a pot,
to be forwarded in heat in spring, and planted out about

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 73
May. They increase freely from seeds, as well ‘as division.
The hardy sorts may be sown in the borders, in March, in
damp peaty soil. The evergreen trailing kinds increase by
cuttings, and for the most part require stove heat.

CONANTHERA. [Liliacew.] Pretty half-hardy bulbs.
Dryish, sandy, loamy soil. Propagated by offsets.

CONOSPERMUM. [Proteacexw.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Sandy peat soil. Increased by cuttings in sand
under bell-glasses.

CONOTHAMNUS. [Myrtacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, peat and loam. Increased by cuttings in sand
under bell-glasses. C. trinervis, flowers red, in June.

CONVALLARIA. Ly or tHe Vatiry. [Liliacee.}
This universally admired plant is a dwarf herbaceous peren-
nial, and its spikes of drooping white, deliciously fragrant
flowers, and broad green leaves, form one of the loveliest of
nature’s contrasts in colouring—rich green and pure white.
There are varieties, in one of which the flowers are pinkish,
and in the other double white; but the simple form is the
most attractive. They grow in common garden soil, and
flourish in shady places. The plants are increased by dividing
the roots. Planted in pots they are beautiful subjects for
forcing into early bloom.

CONVOLVULUS. Briypweep. [Convolvulacee.] Orna-
mental plants, with trumpet-shaped flowers, which are great
favourites in gardens. The best known are known as the
Convolvulus major and the Convolvulus minor of gardens,
the former of which belongs to another family, called Paar-
Bits, which see; and the hardy annual species, of which
C. tricolor, and its white and dark blue varieties are the best,
should be sown in pots in March for early bloom, and again
in April and May, in the open borders, for a succession.
C. tricolor is a fine border plant, and where the beds are
large it is a good flower for masses ; for, though a little strag-
gling, it is not more so than can be controlled. C. scam-
monia, among the hardy perennial kinds, is a very pretty
twiner, and like the rest is best increased by seeds, and need
only be planted in a dry, well-drained situation, in good
lightish garden soil. The half-hardy kinds chiefly need pro-
tection at the root against wet during winter. There are

74 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

some stove and greenhouse shrubby and climbing species,
which require an open compost of turfy peat and loam, and
are increased by cuttings, as may also the other perennial
kinds. The annuals are in all cases perpetuated by seeds.

COOPERIA. Eventne Star. [Amaryllidacex.} Pretty
half-hardy bulbs, with fragrant flowers, opening in the even-
ing. Deep sandy loam soil, in a sheltered situation. In-
creased by offsets or by seeds, which latter should be sown
as soon as ripe.

CORAL TREE. See Eryrurina.

CORBULARIA. Hoop-perticoat Narcissus. [Amaryl-
lidaceze.] Beautiful hardy bulbs. Sandy, loamy soil. In-
creased by offsets.

CORDYLINE. {Liliacee.] Fine greenhouse palm-lke
shrubs, of easy culture. Soil, loam and peat. Increased by
suckers or cuttings, obtained by destroying the heart of the

lant.

COREOPSIS. [Composite.] A genus now chiefly con-
fined to a small group of showy perennials, but formerly
including some of the most popular annuals, as C. tinctoria’
and C. Drummondii. These perennials are propagated by
dividing the old roots, which may be done in autumn or
spring. The plants grow well in any moderately good garden
soil, and rank among the best of the larger perennials.

CORETHROSTYLIS. [Byttneriacee.] Greenhouse ever-
green shrubs. Sandy peat soil. Propagated by cuttings in
sand under bell-glasses.

CORIARIA. ([Coriariaceze.} Hardy deciduous shrubs.
Common soil. Increased by suckers or cuttings.

CORN BOTTLES. See CenravreEa cyanus.

CORN FLAG. See Grapio.us.

CORNUS. ([Cornacee.} Hardy deciduous trees and
shrubs, suitable for shrubberies. Common soil. Increased
by layers or seeds. There are two small herbaceous species,
which are pretty plants for boggy situations, or pot culture in
peat soil.

CORONILLA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Shrubs
and perennial herbs, of which some are showy border flowers
of easy culture. Propagated by division, and growing in
common garden soil. The greenhouse shrubby kinds flower

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 75

throughout the winter and early spring months. They require
a compost of two-thirds light loam; and one-third turfy peat.
They strike freely from cuttings in sandy soil under a com-
mon hand-glass in the spring, selecting for cuttings the shoots
which have not any bloom. When they have struck root pot
them in three-inch pots with good drainage, and place them
in a shallow frame where they may be near the glass; pinch
out the tops to make them grow bushy, and as they fill the
small pots with roots change them to five-inch pots, and
return them to the frame. They must have plenty of air
during the spring mouths, and on mild days may be entirely
uncovered; and throughout the summer they should be con-
stantly exposed, except during heavy rains, or when the sun
is very powerful; for they need constant watchfuluess as to
moisture, and if allowed to dry will get naked at the bottom,
which will spoil their appearance altogether. Change the
pots for larger sizes as required, and about the first week in
September put them into the greenhouse, where they wiil
soon commence flowering, and may continue until the end of
May, when they should be put out in the open air, in a
sheltered situation, among other greenhouse plants. They
seed occasionally, and the seeds may be sown in the same
kind of compost, in wide-mouthed pots or seed-pans, very
thinly, and when large enough may be pricked out into
small pots, three or four in a pot, till they are as large as
struck cuttings, when they may be treated exactly like them,
but cuttings are preferable. C. glauca has sported into a
variegated-leaved kind.

CORREA. [Rutacee.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
valuable for blooming in winter and very early spring. They
require much the treatment of Boronia. Young plants are
raised from cuttings, or by inarching on the common sort,
C. alba, which strikes freely from cuttings; and where the
propagation of the better sorts of Correas is an object, it is
usual to keep a supply of this common kind in small pots for
this purpose. The advantage of inarching on this particular
species is, that it is a freer-growing plant at the root than
most of the other sorts. The young plants intended for
stocks should be encouraged to make a single straight clean
shoot, which is inarched as near the soil as convenient. When

76 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

intended to be grown as objects of superior cultivation, on
the other hand, they require to be frequently topped to
produce a bushy growth; and this requires very close atten-
tion, for they grow rapidly. The proper soil is three parts
peat earth to one of sandy loam, with more or less sand
added, the other materials being turfy. The pots must be
well drained, and the plants watered with care at all seasons.
Besides several handsome species, the varieties of Correa
raised from seeds are now very numerous, and some of them
far excel the original kinds. C. alba, C. pulchella, C. speciosa,
C. virens ; but the garden varieties are endless.

CORTUSA. Berar’s-kan Sanicie. ([Primulacee.] <A
pretty dwarf herbaceous pereunial, suitable to be grown on
rockwork, or in pots among alpine plants. Loam and peat.
Propagated by division.

CORYDALIS. [Fumariacee.] Pretty hardy plants, of
easy culture in common soil. The annuals and biennials,
which are the least important, may be sown in the borders in
April and June. The perennials are increased by division.

CORYPHA. Fan Patm. [Palmacee.] Beautiful palms.
Most of this family will succeed in a warm greenhouse. Rich
sandy loam. Propagated by imported seeds. The chief one
is C. australis.

COSMANTHUS. [Hydrophyllacez.] Pretty hardy annuals.
Rich garden soil. Increased by seeds.

COSMEA. [Composite.} Pretty half-hardy annuals and
perennials. Rich garden soil. The aunuals increased by
seeds, which should be sown in gentle heat in spring, and the
young plants turned out in May; the perennials by root
division. Also called Cosmos.

COSMELIA. ([Epacridacew.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrub. Sandy peat. Propagated by cuttings in sand under
a bell-glass. The only one we grow is C. rubra, flowers red,
in May.

COTONEASTER. [Pomacezx.} Hardy trees and shrubs,
of an ornamental character. Common soil. Increased by
layers or by seeds. The deciduous and tree-like sub-evergreen
species are less desirable than the prostrate trailing ever-
green shrubs with neat box-like foliage. There are many
varieties.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 77

COTTON GRASS. See EriopHorum.

COTTON TREE. See Gossypium.

COTYLEDON. [Crassulacez.] Greenhouse succulent-
leaved evergreen shrubs. Sandy loam, with one-eighth old
mortar. Propagated by cuttings. A large genus, all the
species curious.

COWANIA. [Rosacee.}] Greenhouse evergreen shrub.
Soil, sandy peat and loam. Increased by cuttings in sand
under a bell-glass. C. plicata, flowers red, in June.

COW PARSNIP. See Heraciuum.

CRANE’S-BILL. See Geranium.

CRANIOLARIA. [Pedaliacez.}| Greenhouse annuals,
requiring the culture of Martynia, from which this has been
separated.

CRASSULA. [Crassulaceze.} Succulent greenhouse shrubs.
The most ornamental of the old Crassulas have been re-
moved, and are now called Kalosanthes.

CRATAIGUS. MHawrHorn. [Pomacee.}] The most
ornamental genus of the smaller trees. It is among an
extensive family : the majority grow into trees of from twelve
to twenty feet high, with considerable diversity of habit.
The flowers are for the most part white in bunches, so
familiar in the common ‘“ May,” or Hawthorn; but there are
some with pink blossoms. The trees are, however, no less
valuable on account of their flowers than their fruit, which is
very ornamental in the autumn, the flowers being developed
in the spring, or between April and June. The Thorns all
grow freely in good garden soil, preferring that of a loamy
texture. They are, in ordinary cases, better known as small
standards or trees than as bushes. It is usual to graft all
the kinds upon stocks of the common Hawthorn ; an upright
leading shoot is then trained up to a sufficient height for the
stem, which may be four or six feet high, when they are
pruned to form the head. The common kind for stocks, or
for the purpose of forming hedges—for which it is one of the
best of deciduous subjects—is raised from the seeds or haws,
sown broadcast in beds, and transplanted when a year old into
nursery-beds. Fences are best planted with two-year-old
plants. The stocks for grafting should be four years old, and
‘if they are not placed where the trees are td remain, they

73 GLENNY 8S HANDBOOK

should have been transplanted annually previously to grafting
them.

The species are all desirable. C. pyracantha is an ever-
green trailing species, with bunches of fiery berries in winter ;
it is one of the best of plants for training against a wall or
building.

CRAWFORDIA. [Gentianacee.] Beautiful twining
half-hardy annuals or perennials (?). Peat and loam. Cuttings
or division.

CRINUM. [Amaryllidacee.] Beautiful bulbous plants,
of which the majority are among the finest stove plants.
Strong rich loamy soil, with coarse sand. Increased by off-
sets. C. longiflorum should be planted eight or ten inches
deep in a moist situation. C. amabile and C. umbellatum are
fine.

CRISTARIA. [Malvaceze.] A neat hardy herbaceous
perennial. Peat soil. Increased by division or by seed. C.
coceinea, hardy perennial; flowers scarlet, in August.

CROCUS. [Iridacee.] Beautiful dwarf hardy bulbs,
with grassy leaves and showy flowers. The Crocus is popularly
known as a spring flower, peeping up almost from amongst
the snow. The spring Crocuses come into bloom some time
in February, and continue more or less in bloom until the
beginning of April, this succession of bloom being obtained
by earlier and later planting, and by placing them in different
situations and aspects. No flowers are more easily cul-
tivated ; they grow in any ordinary garden soil, and multiply
rapidly by offsets. The bulbs, or corms, should be planted
in October or November, about two inches below the surface,
in rows or patches. They are suitable for edgings to flower-
borders, or they may form small beds by themselves; in either
ease the bulbs should not be inserted singly, but are far more
effective if put in groups of six, twelve, or even more, the
groups being proportionately distant. There is another race
of Crocuses, the autumn bloomers, comprising some very
splendid species, which bloom in the end of October and
through November, and are equally useful as ornaments with
the spring Crocuses, in consequence of blooming when other
flowers are nearly over: many of these, however, are very
scarce. ‘They should be planted in June and July, and in

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 79

other respects require precisely the same treatment as the
others.

CROSSWORT. See CruciAnELta.

CROWEA. [Rutacee.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
forming elegant and striking additions to a select collection.
When grown slowly they form fine pyramidal branching
plants, and are in blooming time studded all over with bright
pink stars. When grown in heat, or too much excited by the
soil, the stems are more elongated, less clothed with leaves,
and the whole plant more naked. Cuttings strike with a
little bottom heat in sand, under a bell-glass, and when they
have well taken root are potted into three-inch pots; when
taken off, the cuttings should be only two inches long, and
one inch of that should be inserted in the sand. These fresh-
potted plants must be kept in a close pit until established,
and then placed close to the front of the greenhouse, where
they may have plenty of air and light. As soon as the pots
are filled with roots change them for others a size larger,
still keeping them near the glass in the greenhouse, and
shifting from time to time from one pot to another. The
plants will make side-shoots, and assume a pyramidal shape
particularly graceful and handsome. If they are required
short and bushy the tops should be taken off soon after the
struck cuttings are potted off, as the side shoots push earlier
and stronger for it; but then the stopping system having
been begun must be continued, so as to keep the plant in
form, and to check any branch that may grow too vigorously.
The most elegant form, however, is that of the natural growth
of the plant, and if not grown too rapidly the bloom will
come abundantly al] over the plant alike. The soil must
be sandy turfy peat. C. saligna, flowers rose, in July. C.
stricta.

CROWFOOT. See Ranuncurvs.

CRUCIANELLA. Crossworr. [Galiacee.] Hardy peren-
nials and annuals, with two or three requiring stove and green-
house temperature. The most desirable is C. stylosa, a
trailing plant, forming a pretty subject for rockwork. It is
propagated rapidly either by cuttings of the young shoots, or
a aly the plant, and grows readily in common garden
soil.

80 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

CRYPTOMERIA. Japan Cepar. ([Pinacew.] A *very
ornamental evergreen tree, thriving best in pure and rather
sandy loam, and in elevated situations. Seeds have been
largely imported, from which the many thousands of young
plants now dispersed through the country have been pro-
duced. It is also propagated by cuttings and grafting ; but
seeds make far better plants, and these have been already
ripened in England. C. Japonica is a fine evergreen, and a
dwarf-growing variety has been imported from the north of
China.

CUMMINGIA. [Liliacee.} Beautiful half-hardy bulbs,
requiring a light rich mixture of loam, peat, leaf-mould, and
sand, and a sheltered situation, such as a frame, or the foot
of a wall with a south or west aspect. Increased by offsets.

CUNILA. [Lamiacee.} Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Peat and loam. Propagated by division. C. coccinea, flowers
scarlet. C. Mariana, flowers red.

CUPHEA. {[Lythracee.| Pretty shrubby or herbaceous
perennials and procumbent annuals, comprising both tender
and hardy species. The hardy annual kinds should be sown
along with the annuals in March on a slight hotbed, or in
frames, for the earliest bloom, and again in April and May
in the open borders: they prefer arich light soil. The green-
house and tender species grow in a mixture of two parts leaf-
mould to one of loam, with a sixth of sand added, and are
increased by cuttings in sand in a brisk hotbed during the
spring or summer.

CUPRESSUS. Cypress. [Pinacee.| Handsome hardy
evergreen shrub-like trees, mostly of pyramidal growth. They
are mostly large trees when full grown, but being erect-
growing, may be kept for many years in a moderate space.
Good loamy soil is best for them, and they are best increased °
by seeds, but sometimes by cuttings and by grafting. The
chief ornamental evergreens are C. sempervirens (common
evergreen); C. torulosa (Bhotan Cypress): C. thurifera (frank-
incense-bearing) ; C. funebris (funebral) ; C. macrocarpa (large-
fruited) ; C. majestica, and C. aromatica.

CURRANT. See Rises. —

CYANANTHUS. [Polemoniacew.} Pretty hardy herba-
ceous plants, requiring sandy peat soil. Increased . by

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 8l

cuttings. C. lobatus requires the same treatment as alpine
plants ; flowers blue, in August.

CYANELLA. [Liliacee.] Pretty little greenhouse or
half-hardy bulbous perennials. Soil, three parts of turfy peat
to one of sandy loam, with one-sixth sand. Increased by
offsets. They succeed on a warm dry border if planted deep
—six inches at least beneath the surface.

CYATHEA. [Polypodiacee.} A genus of hothouse tree
ferns, including some greenhouse species. Soil, peat and
loam. Increased from the spores, or from occasional off-
shoots; but young plants are a long time acquiring a size
which displays their beauty, and itis much preferable, now that
the means of communication are so facile, to import good-
sized trunks from their native habitats. The best are C.
dealbata and C. medullaris.

C¥CAS. ([Cycadacee.}| A genus of palm-like plants,
nearly allied to Zamia, requiring the stove temperature.
The foliage of the species of Cycas is very elegantly feathered,
and the plants are very desirable in a stove collection: they
flower but seldom, the beauty of the plants resting in their
evergreen foliage, or fronds. Soil, rich sandy loam. In-
creased slowly from suckers.

CYCLAMEN. Sowsreap. [Primulacee.] A _ beautiful
genus of dwarf, tuberous, hardy, and half-hardy perennials.
From their tuberous roots proceeds a crown of handsome
leaves, above which rise the flowers almost of the form of a
shuttlecock, the petals reflexing completely, and pointing up-
wards. The bloom is profuse, and in some of the kinds
highly scented. The greenhouse sorts should be grown in a
light position near the glass. The tubers require but one
annual potting, which should be done in autumn, when they
commence growing, and continue through the winter, so as to
flower very early in the spring, except in the case of the
summer and autumn-blooming species, which should be potted
when at rest. The plants seed freely, and are best raised
from seed, because they do often admit of division, and divi-
sion generally produces unsound plants very liable to rot.
Sow the seed as soon as ripe in pans, in soil composed of Joam
and peat in equal quantities, with a sixth part of sand; sow
thinly, so that they may not come up too close to each other ;

G

82 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

place the pan in the greenhouse near the glass, water occa-
sionally, and when they come up keep them clear of weeds.
A warm frame is the best place for them while growing.
When they have made their full growth they will have formed
little tubers, which, at the decay of the leaf, should be taken
up and put into five-inch pots, four or six in a pot, now using
a soil of equal parts mellow loam, turfy peat, and good rotten
dung, with sand as before. They must again be placed near
the glass, and after one more season’s growth, and the decay
of the leaf, they may be taken up, and planted one only ina
pot four inches in diameter. The top of the tuber should be
placed level with the surface of the soil. They should flower
this third season, and from that time they need only to be
removed into larger pots as they increase in size, and will
flower more abundantly every year. The pots may be about
twice the diameter of the tuber. After the bloom is over, and
the leaves matured, they should be suffered to rest by being
kept rather dry; but it is not advisable to allow them to get
quite dry, as is sometimes done. The half-hardy sorts require
exactly similar treatment, only a cold frame suits them best;
and the hardy kinds grow in shady parts of the garden in
peaty soil, but are well deserving of culture with the half-
hardy sorts in a frame.

CYCLOBOTHRA. ([Liliacee.]| A small genus of hardy
or half-hardy bulbs. Soil, sandy loam and leaf-mould. In-
creased readily by offsets. They require protection in winter
either by mulching or removing to a frame.

CYCLOGYNE. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Green-
house evergreen sub-shrub. Soil, light loam and leaf-mould.
Increased by cuttings.

CYDONIA. Quince. [Pomacex.] A genus of trees and
shrubs, including C. Japonica, once known as Pyrus Japonica,
which is one of the most brilliant of deciduous flowering
shrubs, blooming in the depth of winter and throughout the
greater part of the year. The large scarlet flowers grow in
clusters on the branches, and are very conspicuous in winter
when the leaves are fallen. It is a free-growing plant in
common garden soil, attains five or six feet in height, or more
if trained against a wall, and is increased either by cuttings,
layers, or suckers. It forms a beautiful lawn or shrubbery

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 83

bush ; is equally desirable trained over the surface of a garden
wall or building; forms a very ornamental hedge; or, if
trained up or ‘ worked” on a clean stem, makes a very con-
spicuous small standard tree. The plant is perfectly hardy,
which, combined with its easy culture, recommends it to
general favour. There are varieties with cream - coloured
and semi-double red flowers, but they are far inferior to the
common kind.

CYNANCHUM. [Asclepiadacee.] Hardy herbaceous
perennials for the most part: they are not showy. Common
soil. Propagated by division.

CYNARA. ArrticHoxe. [Composite.] Striking plants,
with ornamental foliage, for large borders and the fronts of
shrubberies. Common soil. Increased by division.

CYNOGLOSSUM. MHovnp’s Toneus. [{Boraginacee. |
A rather large genus of hardy plants, including perennials,
biennials, and annuals. Common soil. Increased by division
or by seeds. They are rather coarse-habited plants, and
admissible only in large mixed borders.

CYPELLA. ([Iridacee.}| A genus of pretty little halt-
hardy bulbous plants, which may be grown in a frame, with
protection against frost in winter. They should have a light
compost of loam, peat, and leaf-mould in equal proportions,
with sand added, and are propagated by offsets. C. plumbea
is sometimes called Phalocallis plumbea.

CYPRESS. See Cupressus.

CYPRIPEDIUM. Lapy’s Stripper. [Orchidacex.| Beau-
tiful herbaceous perennials, comprising about a dozen hardy
and some half-dozen stove species. The latter are easily cul-
tivated in a moist heated atmosphere, such as the orchideous
family generally require, and may be potted in rough turfy
peat. They must not be over-watered at the root, nor should
cold water be poured about their roots or hearts at any time.
They increase by division. The hardy ones are more difficult
to cultivate, and can only be well managed in a cold shady
frame, kept almost constantly closed during summer, in order
to keep up a cool, calm, and moist atmosphere. A bed of
peat earth should be made up, and the roots planted out in it.
This bed should be covered on the surface with moss, to keep
it regularly and constantly moist. They may be kept in pots

34 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

of peat soil, and set into a similar frame. Whether grown in
pots or planted out, they do not at all like to be disturbed,
and should therefore be replanted or repotted as seldom as
possible. It is a remarkable as well as beautiful family, and
is worth any trouble to secure its successful cultivation. All
pretty.

CYRTANTHUS. [Amaryllidaceew.]| Handsome bulbous
plants. Soil, strong, rich, but open loam. Propagated by
offsets. The evergreen species require to be kept growing
in a warm greenhouse in winter; the rest dry and at
rest.

CYSTOMIUM. [Polypodiacee.| Greenhouse evergreen
fern. Soil, turfy peat and loam. Increased by division.

CYSTOPTERIS. Brapper Fern. [Polypodiacee.}| A
very pretty genus of small-growing ferns, with delicate annual
fronds, of from three to twelve inches in height. They grow
well on rockwork, or in pots among turfy soil, intermixed with
lumps of brick or freestone, and well drained. They are mul-
tiplied by division of the plants. C. alpinum, C. bulbiferum,
C. fragile, and C. montanum are the principal.

CYTISUS. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.}| Elegant
and for the most part showy shrubs and small trees. C
laburnum and C. alpinus are well-known free-flowering trees ;
and though the most familiar and common, are the most
beautiful of the whole family. They may be raised from seeds,
which need only be sown on the common open ground and
raked in, where they may be thinned to proper distances, two
or three inches apart, and remain the first season; the next
they may be planted out in rows, a foot from plant to plant,
and two feet from row to row. As all these trees are wanted
as standards, whether for their own sakes or for stocks on
which to graft or bud other varieties, therefore the side-shoots
but the top two or three should be rubbed off while merely
buds. When they are tall enough their heads may be allowed
to grow and bloom, because those with the largest and hand-
somest racemes of flowers may be saved for Laburnums, and
the others may be worked with the different species of Cytisus,
some of which are white, others yellow, and many are of
different forms and habits, but all make good standards.
Some of them have small racemes of flowers, others bloom

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 85

all the way along the branches ; some are pendulous, others
shrubby and upright, but all very pretty, and worth growing
in collections among ornamental shrubs. Most of the hardy
kinds may be grown as dwarf shrubs in any common soil, and
are readily increased either by seeds or by layers. The green-
house species are handsome shrubs, growing freely in peat
and loam, and increased by seeds, by grafting, or by cuttings.
ORNAMENTAL TREES.—C. laburnum (common Laburnum). C.
alpinus (Scotch Laburnum). ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS.—C. albus
(Portugal Broom); C. nigricans ; C. sessifolius ; C. patens; C.
scoparius and its varieties; C. nanus; C. multiflorus; C.
spinosus ; C. filipes; flowers white, in March. ‘These shrubs
should be increased by layers in the autumn, and be taken off
the following season, and bedded out a foot apart, and cut
down to three or four eyes, to make them throw out lateral
branches and form bushy plants.

CZACKIA. Bruno’s Liry. [Liliacex.] A pretty her-
baceous perennial. It is increased by division, grows in
common garden soil, and is quite hardy.

DABGECIA. Sr. Dasroc’s HeatH. ([Ericacee.|] A
small hardy flowering shrub, requiring peat soil, and asso-
ciating well with the Andromedas, the smaller Rhododendrons,
Hpigea, and hardy heaths. Propagated by layering, and
require a moist peaty soil. Along with some of the dwarf
Heaths they are suitable for planting as edgings to beds of
American shrubs. D. polifolia, flowers purple or white, in
June.

DACRYDIUM. [Taxacee.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
of ornamental habit. Soil, sandy loam. Increased by cuttings
in sand under bell-glasses, or by grafting. ORNAMENTAL
EVERGREEN Surups.—D. cupressinum, D. elatum, D. excelsum,
D. Franklandii, D. Mai, D. taxifolium.

DACTYLICAPNOS. [Fumariacee.] Half-hardy climb-
ing perennial. Light rich loam. Propagated by seeds or
cuttings.

DAGGER FLOWER. See Macu#RranTHERA.

DAHLIA. [Composite.] The florists’ varieties of this
brilliant autumnal flower require good rich’ soil, and a moist
open situation. For ordinary gardens, when no great increase
is required, the tubers may be placed in any warm situation

86 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

—a hotbed for instance, or a warm kitchen or other apart-
ment—about the month of March, and in a few days the eyes,
or incipient shoot-buds, will appear; then separate the tubers
into as many pieces as are wanted, with at least a sound eye
and tuber to each piece. These pieces may be potted and
placed in the greenhouse, or dwelling-house, or a common
frame, or any place from which frost can be excluded, and
they will begin growing. In potting the tubers may be
freely cut to lessen their size, for the convenience of using
moderate-sized pots. ‘Those who want to increase their stock
considerably may pot the whole tubers, and put them in a
hotbed, and as fast as any shoots come, and are grown two
inches long, cut them off at. the base, pot them singly in the
smallest-sized pots, and put them in the hotbed to strike.
Plants reared in either of these ways may be put in the open
ground about the middle of May, in the places where they
are to flower. They are very subject to attack from earwigs.
To draw these together invert small flower-pots, half filled
with dry moss, on the stakes to which the plants are fastened :
by examining these pots frequently, and shaking the entrapped
earwigs into scalding water, incredible numbers will be de-
stroyed. The plants should be six feet apart, and they must
be tied up as they grow, or the wind will break them down.
Seeds may be sown in March in a hotbed, and the young
plants potted and kept growing till the middle of May; they
may then be planted in rows two feet apart in the row, and
three from row to row. ‘The florists’ varieties have been ob-
tained, by years of crossing and seed-saving, from D. variabilis,
and are now almost endless in variety of colour, and vary in
height from three to six feet. In the pronunciation of the
name Dahlia, the sound ah, and not ay, should be used—
Dahl-é-a. The other kinds of Dahlias are small tuberous-
rooted perennials, requiring to be protected in winter, and
planted out in summer in good garden soil.

DAISY. See BExxis.

DAMMARA. [Pinacew.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
or trees in their native habitats. Soil, sandy loam. In-
creased by cuttings or by grafting.

DAMPIERA. ([Gordeniacee.| Greenhouse herbaceous
perennials. Soil, peat and loam. Increased by division.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 87

DAPHNE. [Thymelacée.] Interesting hardy and green-
house shrubs, comprising some of the prettiest and most
fragrant ornaments of the dressed ground and shrubbery.
Soil, equal parts sandy loam and peat. The commoner and
hardy kinds are raised from seeds or layers, and the better
and tender kinds are usually grafted or inarched, stocks of
D. Pontica and D. laureola being used. The greenhouse
kinds require plenty of pot room, and may be associated with
Camellias as regards the details of cultivation: they are
highly desirable on account of their rich perfume, with which
the whole atmosphere of the houses in which they are placed
is charged. A close, moderately warm pit is preferable for
the grafting process. Seeds are two years in vegetating.
D. cneorum, pink; D. collina, rosy lilac; D. Fortuni, pale
purple; D. Indica, white; D. Japonica, pink; D. Meze-
veum, pink or white; D. odora, pinkish or red, are the
principal.

DATE PALM. See Poanrx.

DATURA. [Solanacee.] The shrubby species of this
genus are also known as Brugmansias. They are greenhouse
shrubs, all worthy of general cultivation, and of easy culture.
They strike from cuttings or eyes very freely, and grow fast.
To raise them from eyes, get a wide-mouthed pot just before
the season for starting the plants, which must be pruned
close in; cut the pieces taken off into eyes—that is, cutting
half an inch above and below every bud; set these all round
the edge of the pot, and place them in the stove or in a
hotbed. In due time every one will grow, and throw down
abundance of roots. Let them be potted into three-inch
pots, and kept growing ; and when these pots show the roots
through the bottom, or draining hole, change them for larger.
Continue them in the stove until established in these second
pots, when one half may be removed to the greenhouse, the
others kept in the stove. If bushy plants are required, take
off the tops to encourage lateral shoots ; if not, Jet them grow
on. These plants having funnel-shaped flowers hanging down
from the branches, it is best to let them run up three or four
feet, taking off all the side branches, so that they may form
standards ; then they may be topped, and allowed to form a
head. They will always bloom the first year if permitted ;

88 GLENNY S$ HANDBOOK

but to form handsome standards it is better to remove all
flowers the first year, and get strength into the plant. At
the end of the year the leaves will fall, and the plants
should be brought into the greenhouse to rest. In early
spring prune the branches close in, leaving the upright stem
and the three, four, or more branches that have formed the
head, two eyes, or at most three eyes, long from the trunk.
As they branch out rub off the weak shoots, and those that are
likely to crowd better ones, leaving only such as are likely to
form a handsome head. ‘These, if allowed to grow, will form
a noble head to the plant—the branches in due time loaded
with flowers. When the plants are turned out on a lawn it
is usual to remove them out of the pots, and plant them in
the ground. The soil best adapted for them is rich fibry
loam, with rotten dung and sand. The annual species are
coarse-leaved plants, known in gardens as Thorn-apples. The
plants being annual are all raised from seed, which, to hasten
the flowering, should be sown in heat, and planted out in
May where they are to bloom. The self-sown seeds will
vegetate in May, and bloom later in the season. The seeds
should be gathered before they scatter themselves about.
D. sanguinea, flowers red and orange, in August. D. Knightit,
flowers white, in August, and has a double corolla very large.
D. lutea, flowers yellowish, in August.

DAUBENTONIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacez.] Stove
or greenhouse shrubs: Soil, peat and loam. Propagated by
cuttings.

DAUBENYA. [Liliacee.} Curious greenhouse bulbs.
Soil, rich sandy loam. Increased by offsets.

DAVALLIA. [{Polypodiaceew.] Beautiful evergreen stove
and greenhouse ferns. Soil, turfy peat with sand. Increased
by dividing the creeping rhizomes.

DAVIESIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.} Very pretty
evergreen greenhouse shrubs, requiring the treatment of
Chorozemas. Soil, sandy turfy peat. Increased by cuttings
in sand under a bell-glass, or by seeds.

DAY LILY. See Hemerocattis.

DELPHINIUM. Larkspur. ‘Ranunculacee.}] An ex-
tensive genus of hardy plants, chiefly perennials, but con-
taining some. annuals and biennials, mostly plants of con-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 89

siderable beauty, and favourites in gardens. The perennials
are increased by dividing the roots in spring, and need not
be disturbed oftener than once in three years to part the
roots. ‘The double variety of D. grandiflorum has its beau-
tiful flowers an intense blue colour. The best of the annuals,
D. consolida and D. Ajacis, should be sown where they are to
bloom, and thinned to three or four inches apart. They
ought to be grown in every garden, and require only good
garden soil. The branching Larkspur is hardy enough to
stand the winter if sown in autumn. JD. azureum, D.
Barlowi, and D. grandiflorum. There are numerous other
showy varieties, among which are D. Hendersoni, D. Wheeleri,
and D. formosum.

DESFONTAINIA. [? Gentianacee.| <A beautiful hardy
or half-hardy holly-lke evergreen shrub. Peat and loam.
Cuttings. D. spinosa is worth a place.

DEUTZIA. [Philadelphacee.| Handsome hardy deci-
duous shrubs, well adapted for pot culture and for forcing, as
well as for the front ranks of the shrubbery border or the
conservative wall. They are propagated by suckers, which
come up from the root in plenty, and by layers: the latter
bloom earlier and somewhat more freely than plants from
suckers, which are more apt to ramble. In layering it is only
necessary to cut away part of the wood at the place intended
to be layered, and to peg that part down three inches below
the surface; the layers will have thrown out roots by the
next season, when they may be removed, cut down to about
four inches high, and planted a foot apart from each other in
beds where there is a mixture of peat earth. Here they may
grow a season, and will then be fit to take up for potting.
In the first growth they make after this the too vigorous
branches must be checked, and the form of the plant be
regulated a little. They may be forced the next season. If
kept in pots they must be changed from small to greater,
though, as they get larger, they are none the worse for being
a little starved. They are also valuable plants for planting
against ornamental walls, for which object they have only to
be put out in any ordinarily good soil, and require little
attention beyond pruning or training. Plants for forcing
must be prepared in pots, and kept in store, like Roses and

90 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

other hardy subjects used for that purpose. The best are
D. gracilis, white, and D. scabra, white.

DEVIL IN A BUSH. See NicEtta.

DIANELLA. [Liliacee.] Greenhouse or half-hardy
fleshy-rooted perennials. Soil, sandy peat and loam. In-
creased by seeds or division. Nearly all the introduced
species are blue-flowered, and natives of New Holland.

DIANTHUS. Pins. [Caryophyllacee.] The majority
of the Pinks are highly ornamental hardy perennials, particu-
larly suited for rockwork, and almost all of these are alike
desirable in such situations. All the hardy perennials prefer
a light dryish soil, and are increased by cuttings or pipings,
and also by seeds, which should be sown as soon as ripe.
There are a few half-hardy sub-shrubby kinds, which may be
kept in a dry frame or greenhouse, and should be potted in
sandy loam and peat: they propagate by cuttings. The
Indian Pink (D. Chinensis) is a richly-coloured hardy annual,
and the only annual worth growing.

Pink (Dianthus plumarius, vars.)—The fancy or florists’
race of Pinks is extensive. They require every year to be
struck from pipings, which are the shoots that spring out
round the base of the stem: these are taken off at blooming
time, or rather later, and each shoot is cut across just below
the third joint, the lower pair of leaves from the heart being
cut clean away. A bed is made of rich sandy loam and dung,
and the surface is made quite soft with water, in which state
pipings or shoots are inserted all over it not more than an
inch apart: after drying for an hour or two it is covered with
a hand-glass, which is not disturbed for some days, and then
only to water the pipings if they require it. A good deal can
be done towards moistening them by watering outside the
glass. In three weeks they will have struck root, and the
glass may then be tilted a little to admit some air, and in a
few days more may be taken away, that they may have full
benefit of the air. After a few days they may be taken up,
and planted out in four-feet beds: six inches apart every way
will be the proper distance for the plants. The soil in which
they grow should be the loam from rotted turves; or, if ordi-
nary garden soil be used of necessity, a good dressing of dung
should be forked in before the Pinks are planted. In May,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 91

when they send up their bloom-stalks, remove all but the best
from each plant, and as these advance take off all but two or
three buds from each stalk; and when these have swelled
almost to bursting, but not quite, tie them fast round the
middle with a piece of bass matting, and tear the bud-cover
down to the tie at its five natural divisions. After the bloom
is over, the grass, as it is called—that is, the young shoots—
will be ready to strike for the next year. ‘The best double
Pinks do not seed freely, but they do occasionally; and such
seed should be prized as a means towards obtaining new
varieties of merit. The seed should be sown in wide-mouthed
pots or seed-pans, not too thickly, and placed in a cold frame.
If not too much crowded when they come up, the plants may
remain there till they are large enough to plant out, in like
manner with the pipings or cuttings, and the treatment is
the same throughout. As they bloom throw away instantly
every one that is semi-double or single, and all that are not
as good or better than the varieties already in cultivation.
A very few of the seedlings may be worth trying again, and
of these a few cuttings should be reared. The flowers of
seedlings should be examined daily, almost hourly, in order
to destroy at once those that are good for nothing, for single
and semi-double kinds can only spoil the seed of the better
sorts. It is not to be expected, with every care and advantage
in seed-saving, to get one improved variety out of fifty, or
even a larger number of seedlings. For list of the best
varieties see the latest trade catalogues.

CARNATION AND PicoTEE (Dianthus caryophyllus, vars.).—
These superb and highly-scented flowers are precisely similar
as to the requirements of their cultivation. They are pro-
pagated chiefly by layering. The shoots at the bottom of the
stems being longer than those of the Pink, can be pegged
under the surface to strike root, which they do when half
divided from the parent; for by cutting them half way
through, and pegging the cut part firmly under the surface,
the supply of nourishment from the parent plant being
diminished, they endeavour to compensate for their loss by
forming roots. The shoots in this case do not droop, because
the connection with the old plant is not cut off, as in the
removal of a piping ; consequently there is not so much risk

92 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

of losing any of them. In cutting these stems the knife
should go in slanting just under a joint (about the third joint
from the top), and when nearly half through they should be
split up half an inch above the joint, the sloping piece below
the joint being cut off evenly. The half-joint thus separated
will, when pegged down, send forth roots. These layers, as
they are called, may be all cut off in September, and potted
in four-inch pots, two in a pot, with nothing but clean good
loam from rotted turves—no dung. In February prepare
rich mould to bloom them in: half loam from rotted turves,
a fourth decomposed dung, and the other fourth turfy peat
and silver or other very clean sand, mixed well and left in a
heap. In the beginning of April get twelve-inch pots; fill
one-third with shreds of broken pots, then a third of the
proper soil, then turn out the ball of earth with the pair of
plants in it, and having placed it in the middle at the proper
depth, fill up all round ; press the soil to the ball of earth, and
after adjusting it properly, and filling up to within half an
inch of the top edge, place the pot on a dry hard flooring, the
object being twofold—to prevent worms entering at the bottom
hole and disarranging the soil, and to keep this hole, which
is essential for drainage, from getting filled up, or in any way
stopped, to prevent the egress of whatever superfluous water
may reach the soil. Go through the whole in this way, and
then water freely, taking all possible precaution to prevent
vermin from getting to the pots: one plan is to raise shelves,
with their supports standing in pans of water. When the
stems rise for bloom treat them in the same way as Pinks in
every respect, even to the flowering. The Carnation differs
from the Picotee only in the disposition of the colourmg—
the Carnation is striped or ribboned outwards, the Picotee is
edged or feathered inwards. It is a prevalent practice to put
cards on the buds of the flowers, that the petals may be dis-
played on them as they open. For a list of the best varieties
of these flowers see the latest trade lists.

SwWEETWILLIAM (D. barbatus).—This hardy perennial is best
treated as a biennial, and raised annually from seeds, except
in the case of distinct and particularly handsome varieties,
which can only be increased by propagating from the shoots
produced from the root, and which may be either treated as

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 93

cuttings or layers. The seeds should be sown in June in a
bed of light open soil; and when the seedlings have formed a
pair or two of leaves they may be pricked out three inches
apart on a bed of light rich earth, in which they may grow
till autumn, and will gain strength for flowering. In Sep-
tember, or early in October, remove them with good balls of
earth to the borders or beds where they are to flower. When
intended for beds, however, any convenient period of open
weather between September and February may be chosen for
transplanting them ; but they are best planted early in their
flowering situations. For beds this would be done annually,
the old roots being either destroyed after seed is secured, or
transplanted to the borders, or, in the case of new and striking
varieties, removed and carefully propagated. In borders the
old roots, if vigorous enough, may be left to bloom again.
Young plants reared from cuttings or layers may be treated
exactly like seedlings. The best soil for the blooming plants
is a sandy loam, well manured with decayed leaf-mould and
stable-dung. The varieties of different colours of Sweet-
william are now numerous, but they are hardly advanced
enough for selection by name.

DICHILUS. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Greenhouse
evergreen shrub. Soil, sandy peat. Propagated by cuttings
in sand under a bell-glass.

DICKSONIA. [Polypodiacee.] A genus of large-grow-
ing and handsome ferns. Soil, turfy peat. Increased from
the spores, or in some of the kinds by division. With the
tree-like species it is best to import good-sized trunks, as
young plants are a lifetime growing any considerable size.
This may be done thus :—Cut off all the fronds an inch or
two from the trunk, and without bruising it, a month or two
before the plant is to be shipped, and at the same time remove
the soil down to the roots, and cut these also clean through
at six inches from the stem: pack in a dry case. On its
arrival set the base on the soil of a three-parts-filled pot or
tub, which must be thoroughly drained: the soil should be
turfy peat, mixed with a nearly equal part sand. Keep it ma
close moist heat, but give no water until the young fronds
start and are nearly full grown. D. antarctica will sometimes
reach fifteen feet high.

94 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

DICTAMNUS. Fraxiverta. [Rutacee.] Showy hardy
perennials, with leaves something like those of an ash tree:
hence the name fraginella, or little frawinus, the latter being
the name of the ash. They grow in common garden soil,
preferring loam. Propagated slowly by dividing the roots,
or more readily by seeds, which should be sown as soon as
ripe in open beds.

DICTYMIA. [Polypodiacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
ferns. Soil, peat, loam, and sand. Increased by division.
D. attenuata, one foot high, is the best.

DIDISCUS. [Umbellifere.] A curious and rather pretty
half-hardy annual. It should be sown in March in a warm
frame. Some of the plants may be grown on in frames for
blooming in pots in the greenhouse ; others should be hardened
to plant out in a warm situation out of doors in June. Rich
light soil. Increased by seeds.

DIELYTRA. [Fumariacee.] Beautiful dwarf hardy
herbaceous perennials, once called Fumarias. They grow
well in any rich open soil, and increase by division. D.
spectabilis, the most beautiful of all, propagates readily by
cuttings of the young shoots in spring, managed as Dahlia
cuttings are, or by dividing its tuberous roots, which must ‘not
be too much dried in winter.

DIERVILLA. [Caprifoliacee.] A hardy deciduous
shrub. Moist peaty soil. Increased by suckers or by
cuttings. D. lutea, flowers yellow, in June.

DIETES. [Iridacew.| Handsome Iris-like plants, re-
quiring the protection of a frame, and growing freely in light
loamy soil. Increased readily by division.

DIGITALIS. Foxenove. [Scrophulariace.| Hardy peren-
nials, with a few biennial species, mostly showy or pretty
plants for the borders. The common Foxglove (D. purpurea)
can hardly be esteemed as a garden flower, common as it is
in a thousand places; but it is, nevertheless, a very handsome
plant. They are all increased readily by seeds. Sow in
August if the seeds are ripe, if not in April, on moderately
good ground, and rather thinly: thin the plants to six inches
apart. Those taken up, if required, may be planted elsewhere
six inches apart, but those not removed will be the strongest.
The autumn-sown ones may be removed in spring, with good

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 95

balls of earth, to the places where they are to flower; the
summer-sown crop are better transplanted early in autumn.
If the object is to improve the common or any other
sorts, sow in beds, and thin out the plants as before, but
leave the rest to bloom. When they come into flower pull
up and destroy everything commonplace, and mark the best
for seed.

DILLWYNIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacez.] Orna-
mental evergreen greenhouse shrubs. Their cultivation assi-
milates exactly with that of Chorozemas. Soil, sandy peat,
with one-third light loam. Increased by seeds, or by cuttings
in sand under a bell-glass. D. ericifolia, yellow; D. flori-
bunda, yellow; D. glycinifolia, yellow and red; D. pungens,
yellow ; D. speciosa, yellow, crimson.

DION. [Cycadacesz.] Handsome palm-like evergreens.
Soil, rough sandy loam. Propagated by suckers or seeds
when obtainable. D. edule.

DIONASA. Venus’s Fry-trap. [Droseraceze.] This is a
vegetable curiosity. Its leaves have a movable and excitable
appendage, which closes up like a gin-trap when certain hairs
on its surface are touched, and imprisons whatever may have
caused it to collapse: small insects are often caught, and
hence its trivial name. It requires much the same treatment
as Cephalotus; that is, to be potted in chopped sphagnum,
with a very little peat and plenty of pure sand intermixed.
It requires to be constantly moist. D. muscipula, flowers
greenish yellow, in July.

DIOSMA. [Rutacexe.}| Greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
remarkable for their strongly-scented foliage, agreeable to
some persons. Some of the species have been removed to
Adenandra, Agathosma, Baryosma, &. 'They are propagated
by cuttings of the short tips of the young shoots, from which
the foliage must be taken off about three-quarters of an inch
up, and the stem cut through very clean close up to a joint.
The cuttings are to be inserted in pots filled with turfy peat
below, and sandy peat above, the top half-inch being pure
sand; then covered with a bell-glass, watered moderately, and
placed in the greenhouse. They will very soon strike, and
may be potted into thumb-pots first, and when they have
filled these with roots changed to three-inch pots, then to

96 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

five-inch. The plants must be brought into shape by con-
tinually stopping the most vigorous branches, and so causing
lateral shoots. They require to be carefully watered. The ~
soil for the rooted plants should be turfy peat, made rather
sandy.

DIOSPYROS. [Ebenacee.] A genus contaiming some
hardy trees and greenhouse evergreen shrubs. ‘They are not
of much moment.

DIPHYLLEIA. [Berberidacee.] A pretty hardy her-
baceous alpine perennial. Soil, sandy peat. Increased by
division. Requires a shady situation.

DIPLACUS. [Scrophulariacee.| Greenhouse or half-
hardy showy shrubs, related to Mimulus, and blooming
tolerably well in the borders during summer if well-esta-—
blished or old plants are employed. Cuttings root readily in
sandy soil, put in a frame or hand-glass, and the striking root
is hastened by a little warmth. They may be potted in com-
post of loam, lightened with turfy soil, or leaf-mould and
sand. Like other free-growing subjects, the young plants
must be shifted on, and frequently topped to keep them
bushy, until they get to a blooming size, or as large as may
be required. If good plants are required, strong young
plants should be prepared through one summer for blooming
the following spring. Smaller plants, to bloom the same
year, may be raised in spring. D. glutinosus, orange yellow ;
D. puniceus, deep crimson ; and D. Californicus, nankeen, are
the best.

DIPLADENIA. [Apocynacee.| Very beautiful ever-
green stove shrubs, of which the most familiar are D. crassi-
noda, D. splendens, and D. atropurpurea. ‘These are perfectly
manageable as pot plants when trained on cylinder-formed
trellises, or they are equally suitable for traiming up the
rafters or pillars, or over the roof of a stove. They are pro-
pagated by cuttings, which should be planted in sand under
bell-glasses, and placed in a warm frame, or where a slight
bottom heat can be given them. When rooted pot them
singly into three-inch pots, in a mixture of one-third sandy
loam and two-thirds turfy peat, with sand added to make it
porous. The plants must be kept in astove atmosphere, and
may be topped once to obtain two or more leading branches,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 97

which for a time may be tied to an upright stake. It is
most convenient thus to train them until the plants are strong
enough to be put into large pots for flowering, because after
the cylinder trellis is brought into use it is very inconvenient
to have to re-train the plants in consequence of their branches
becoming intertwined. By the time they have filled a five-
inch pot with good healthy roots they may be put into a large
pot of a foot or fifteen inches in diameter, if this be during
the period between February and the beginning of August.
From August to February it is better to avoid shifting the
plants into so large a body of soil. After this sbitt, with
which must be associated thorough drainage, and a rough turfy
staple of soil of mixed peat and loam as before, the cylinder
trellis may be put down, and the branches trained closely in a
spiral manner until the trellis is covered. Occasionally one of
the shoots should be taken in a direction downwards, so as to
fill up the lower part of the trellis, which is most liable to get
bare of branches. The plants while making this growth,
which will probably be rapid, should be placed where they will
have a free exposure to light with a flow of fresh air, accom-
panied by the proper temperature of a plant stove. The
genus has been separated from Hchites, and contains some
other handsome plants, with tuberous roots and herbaceous
annual stems.

DIPLOCOMA. [Composite.| A showy half-hardy per-
ennial. Common garden soil. Increased by division.

DIPLOLAINA. [Rutacee.}| A greenhouse evergreen
shrub. Soil, two-thirds peat, the rest sandy loam, including
one-sixth of sand. Propagated by cuttings in a gentle
heat.

DIPLOPAPPUS. [Composite.] Hardy or half-hardy
perennials, some of them sub-shrubby. Related to Aster.
Common loamy soil. Increased by cuttings or by division.

DIPLOPELTIS. [Sapindacee.] A pretty greenhouse
evergreen shrub. Soil, peat and sandy loam. Increased by
cuttings.

DISA. [Orchidacee.] A genus of terrestrial greenhouse
orchids, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, some of them of
great beauty, but scarcely cultivable, so far as experience
has yet gone, though worth any further trial. The tubers

H

98 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK.

should be imported, getting them after flowering, when the
leaves begin to decay; not, as it is to be feared is generally
the case, when they are in full bloom. They grow in boggy
places, in peat soil; and this, with the dry hot atmosphere of
South Africa, should be borne in mind in making the attempt
to grow them. ‘They appear to require less moisture when at
rest than at other times.

DISOCACTUS. ([Cactacee.| A pretty stove evergreen
succulent shrub, requiring the general treatment of Epiphyl-
lum. The pretty purplish flowers are succeeded by blood-
coloured berries. Soil, turfy loam, with an equal proportion
of leaf-mould, brick or mortar rubbish, and sand, Pro-
pagated by cuttings, which should be dried a little before
planting.

DISPERIS. fOrclidenten 3 A genus of Cape terrestrial
orchids, for the culture of which see Disa.

DISPORUM. [Melanthaceew.| Half-hardy herbaceous
perennials. Soil, peat and loam. Increased by division or
by seeds.

DITTANY OF CRETE. See Ornicanum picTamnus.

DODECATHEON. American Cowstrr. [Primuldvez. }
Very pretty early-flowering dwarf perennial herbaceous
plants, quite hardy, preferring to be planted in a soil where
there is a good proportion of loam and peat earth, and re-
quiring a cool situation. The flowers are in shape like a
half-opened inverted parasol. They are increased without
difficulty by dividing the roots. Seeds are also produced,
from which young plants may be raised by the same process
as in raising seedlings of the Auricula, except that, when
large enough, these may be planted out in the open ground.
There are several varieties of the common or Mead’s Vir-
ginian Cowslip, differing in the size and colour of their
Howers.

DOG’S BANE. See Arocynum.

DOG’S-TOOTH VIOLET. See Tee amiate.

DOLICHOS. {Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Climbing
plants of little terest. Soil, peat and loam. Best propa-
gated by seeds.

DOODIA. [Polypodiacee.| Pretty greenhouse evergreen
ferns, of small growth. Soil, peat, loam, and sand. Propa-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 99

gated readily from the spores. The chief are D. aspera, D.
blechnoides, D. caudata, and D. media.

DORONICUM. Leoparp’s Bane. [Composite.} Showy
hardy herbaceous plants, with large yellow flowers. They are
propagated easily by dividing the roots in autumn or spring,
and grow in any ordinary garden soil. Except for the
variation of the blooming season, there is scarcely difference
enough in their appearance to render it necessary to cultivate
more than one species.

DORYANTHES. [Amaryllidacee.] A gigantic half
palm-like, half lily-like plant, sending up a scaly stem from
fifteen to twenty feet high, bearing at top a vast head of
magnificent crimson blooms, much like the individual blooms
of the Jacobean Lily (Amaryllis formosissima), but a little
larger. The plant requires loam, peat earth, and dung in
equal parts; is propagated from suckers; and should be
potted in small pots, to be changed, as the plant advances in
size, from time to time. It requires a greenhouse or con-
servatory: no frost should reach it. It is some years before
it attains a size to bloom. We have known it to bloom with
greenhouse culture in twelve years; and no doubt it might be
hastened three or four seasons by stove culture, although that
would make it more weakly. D. excelsa, twenty feet high,
flowers crimson, and is a noble plant.

DORYCNIUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionacer.| Hardy
and half-hardy perennial and sub-shrubby plants, of small
beauty. Common loamy soil. Propagated by seeds.

DOSSINIA. [Orchidacee.] A genus closely related to

-Aneectochilus, and requiring precisely similar management.

D. marmorata is the only species in cultivation: in this the
velvety leaves are copper-coloured, overlaid with a network of
golden lines.

DRABA. Wuittow Grass. [Crucifere.] Hardy peren-

nials of small size, adapted for rockwork, and of very easy

culture. Increased by division. There are upwards of
thirty perennial species, all dwarf and suitable for rockwork,
the flowers mostly white.

DRACAINA. [{Liliacee.}| A genus of fine palm-like
shrubs or trees, but for the most part requiring stove treat-

ment. Soil, rich fibry loam. Increased by suckers, by side-

100 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK.

shoots planted as cuttings in strong heat, or by portions of
the stem, also in strong heat, to force out the dormant buds.
The variegated-leaved sorts are very handsome plants. D.
terminalis and D. nobilis are the best.

DRACOCEPHALUM. Dracon’s Heap. [Labiate.]
The hardy perennial species of this genus are pretty border
flowers, not particular as to soil. They are propagated by
division of the root. The hardy annual species may be sown
in the open border in March and April.

DRACOPHYLLUM. [Epacridacee.] Greenhouse ever-
green shrub. Soil, light peat and sand, with a third sandy
loam. Propagated by cuttings in sand under a bell-glass.

DRACOPSIS. [Composite.] A Rudbeckia-like annual,
quite hardy. The seeds may be sown in the open borders
any time during March or April, and it merely requires good
garden soil. D. ampleaxicaulis, which flowers yellow, is the
best.

DRACUNCULUS. [Aracexw.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials, with a very curious-looking inflorescence. Loamy soil.
Propagated by division of the roots.

DRYANDRA. [Proteacee.] Fine greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, more remarkable, however, for the beauty of their
foliage than of their flowers. They should be potted in a
fibry compost of peat and loam, with a fourth part sand, and
the pots must be well drained. Propagated by cuttings in
sand under a bell-glass. They are closely allied to the Banksias.

DRYNARIA. [Polypodiacee.| Handsome greenhouse
evergreen ferns, most of the species requiring stove heat.
Soil, turfy peat, loam, and sand. Increased by division. The
principal are D. Billardieri and D. pustulata.

DYCKIA. [Bromeliacez.| A curious aloe-like greenhouse
perennial, producing handsome blossoms. Soil, sandy loam,
mortar rubbish, leaf-mould, and sand. Increased by suckers.

DYSOPHYLLA. [Labiate.] Herbaceous plants, mostly
requiring greenhouse protection. Sandy soil of loam and leaf-
mould. Increased by cuttings in sand in a hotbed in spring,
or by division.

ECHEVERIA. ([Crassulaceex.| Very pretty greenhouse
evergreen succulent plants. They should be potted in a com-
post of light loam, mixed with a third part of pounded bricks,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 101

or old brick and lime rubbish; the pots must be well drained,
and in winter little or no water must be given. They require
to be kept in the greenhouse beyond the reach of frost. Cut-
tings or suckers, dried a little before planting, after bemg
detached, will readily afford young plants; and all the species
may be propagated by planting the leaves as cuttings, and
especially by means of the small leaves of the flower-stem,
which should be merely laid on the surface of the soil until
they have produced a young shoot.

ECHINACEA. [Composite.] Large-growing hardy per-
ennials, of the habit of Rudbeckia, and requiring similar
treatment. Common garden soil. Propagated by divi-
sion.

ECHINOCACTUS. HerperHoa Cactus. [Cactacez.]
A genus of succulent herbs or sub-shrubs, of a leafless de-
pressed figure, the surface varied by alternating perpendicular
channels and ridges, the latter armed at short intervals with
clusters of rigid, more or less lengthened spines. The plants
are therefore lumpish masses, covered over with spines ; and
hence the popular name. They require a greenhouse, and
must: be potted in well-drained pots. The compost should be
mellow loam, intermixed with one-fourth leaf-mould, one-
eighth sand, and one-eighth bricks or potsherds broken up
into very fine fragments or dust. They require much ex-
posure to light and sun, and in winter must be kept almost
dry: even in summer the supply of water must be so far
limited that the soil never becomes soddened. ‘They are
admirable plants for cultivating in a Wardian case, in a
sitting-room window, or on a staircase, from their grotesque
appearance, small size, and the slow progress they make.
They are increased by planting any lateral offshoots as cut-
tings, which should be exposed to dry for a few days before
planting. There are upwards of sixty reputed species in
cultivation, any of which may be indiscriminately selected.
Their blooming season is very uncertain, and the blossoms of
many of the species are not at all showy.

ECHITES. [Apocynacee.| Beautiful stove evergreen
twiners, now separated into various genera, including Dipla-
denia, Chonemorpha, Aganosma, Parsonia, and Hemadictyon.
The general treatment of Dipladenia is suitable to the whole

102 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

of these. Soil, turfy peat, loam, and sand. Propagated by
cuttings in heat.

EDGEWORTHIA. [{Thymelacez.| A greenhouse shrub.
Soil, peat and loam. Increased by grafting or inarching on
the Daphnes, or by cuttings under bell-glasses in sand.

EDWARDSIA. [{Leguminose, § Papilionacee.| Half-
hardy shrubs, with beautiful pinnated foliage. In a dry
sheltered situation all the species inhabiting a temperate
climate will succeed against an open wall, though sometimes
partially injured by excessive cold. Sandy peat and loam.
Increased by cuttings.

EGG PLANT. See SoLanum oviGERUM.

ELAAGNUS. OteastEer. [Eleagnacee.] A genus of
shrubs with silvery foliage, consisting chiefly of hardy deciduous
species, with a few greenhouse evergreens. For the former,
which are useful in shrubberies, the common garden soil will
suffice; and they are increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers.
The latter should have loam, with a third peat or leaf-mould,
and a portion of sand, and are increased by cuttings. They
are all interesting, being covered over with membranous
scales, which form beautiful microscopic objects.

ELAOCARPUS. [Tiliacee.] Evergreen shrubs, some
of the species requirmg stove heat. Soil, loam and peat.
Increased by cuttings in sandy soil under bell-glasses.

ELISENA. [Amaryllidacee.] A handsome greenhouse
bulb. Soil, loam and sand in equal parts. Increased by
offsets. EH. longipetala is the best.

ENCEPHALARTOS. [Cycadacex.] Greenhouse palm-
like plants, with a thick trunk and crown of beautiful pinnate
leaves or fronds, many of which may be preserved in a warm
greenhouse by keeping them rather dry during winter. Soil,
sandy, fibry loam. Increased by suckers or offshoots when
these are produced.

ENCHANTER’S NIGHTSHADE. See Circaza.

ENKIANTHUS. ([Ericacee.}] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs of considerable beauty. They are increased by cut-
tings of the ripe wood planted in sand, with slight bottom
heat. Soil, an equal mixture of loam and peat earth. They
must be potted very carefully, as the roots are liable to get
unhealthy, especially if they are over-watered when not grow-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 103

ing, and are in too large or badly-drained pots. The best
are H. quinqueflorus and E. reticulatus.

EPAOCRIS. [Epacridacee.| Beautiful greenhouse ever-
green shrubs, blooming in spring and early summer. They
may be grown in turfy peat, with about an eighth part each
of silver sand and good mellow loam, the latter being omitted
until the plants get vigorous. The plants must have as much
air as can possibly be given, and every pains should be taken
to prevent their growing lanky. As, however, they are inclined
to shoot upwards rapidly, they must be checked by taking the
tops off when they have grown four inches high, which will
cause lateral shoots to*be produced; and this topping must
be repeated until the plants have become bushy. A pit is
better for them than a greenhouse, if the frost could be kept
out, because they are nearer the glass. Whenever any shoot
becomes vigorous, and grows faster than the rest, check the
growth by pinching out the end: lateral branches will be the
result, instead of the elongation of the main shoots. When,
however, size and form have been secured, then the shoots
must be permitted to grow longer in order to bloom, the
flowers being borne all along the strong annual shoots as well
as on the shorter scrubby branches. After the bloom is over
cut the branches back freely, and as soon as the plants begin
to grow afresh put them in a frame, where they may be kept
rather moist, with free supplies of air. Vigorous shoots will
be the result; and these, after growing about six inches long,
may be topped, the strongest twice, the weaker once; after
which they must be suffered to grow on, and when growth
slackens they must be placed in a light airy place, in order
to stop further rapid elongation, and ripen the shoots which
have been already produced. Slow growth is desirable, for
the nearer the leaves are to each other the handsomer the
specimen ; and rapid growth is always against this, because,
as the branches lengthen, the leaves are placed farther apart.
The Epacris is propagated by cuttings of the tops of the
young shoots plauted in sand on a compost of sandy peat,
the leaves being taken off the lower half-inch, that the cut-
ting may be the more easily inserted in the sand. A bell-glass
must be placed over them, and slight bottom heat will hasten
the striking, but it is not necessary. When they have struck

104 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

pot them singly into the smallest-sized pots, and keep them
close and shaded till they have taken root, when they should
be removed to the pit or greenhouse to be grown in, as we
have directed. Examine daily to see which requires water,
and do not give to all because one has become dry; for some
plants take up water faster than others, and it will not do to
let any of them have too much water. Seed may be sown
in the spring in sandy peat, and slightly covered. When
the young plants are large enough pot them, and _ treat
them as directed for cuttings. The varieties are very
numerous.

EPIGAA. [Ericacee.| A lovely little procumbent ever-
green shrub. The plant has a creeping stem, which spreads
by degrees over the ground, rooting as it extends. It re-
quires a bed of peat soil, and a cool, shady, somewhat moist
situation. If planted between Rhododendrons in situations
where these thrive, if they do not too far shade the surface,
the Epigzea would flourish. It makes a very pretty pot plant
to be classed among the frame subjects, requiring shade and
coolness in our summers. . repens, flowers white. JL.
rubicunda has the flowers of a beautiful rose red.

EPILOBIUM. See CHamnenion.

EPIMEDIUM. Barrenworr. [Berberidacee.| Dwarf
hardy perennials, suitable for rockwork or for pot culture.
They like a soil of mellow loam and peat in equal propor-
tions, and mixed with an eighth of sand. On rockwork they
should be planted in similar soil. They are quite hardy, but
when grown in pots should be sheltered in cold frames with
the choicer alpines. Division of the root is the most ready
means of propagating them, and this should be done soon
after they have done flowering, that the plants may get well
established before winter.

EPIPACTIS. [Orchidacee.] Pretty herbaceous peren-
nials. Soil, moist peat. Propagated by division.

EPIPHYLLUM. [Cactacew.| A group of the Cactus
family, with flat leaf-like branches, and very showy blossoms.
The common Epiphyllum (£. phyllanthoides, or FE’. speciosum)
was formerly called Cactus speciosus. The soil and treatment
may be in all respects the same. Among a number of plants
some are showing flower at all times of the year, and may be

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 105

put in the stove to bring them forward. The seeds of all the
family may be sown in pans, and placed in the stove when
the plants are large enough to prick out, which job must be
done with gloves on, or they will greatly punish the hands
with their prickles. They may be put four or five in a pot,
and kept growing in the stove until they indicate a want of
rest; then cease to give them water and put them out into
the greenhouse. When they make a start again pot them
all into sixty-sized pots, and change them from time to time
as they are filled with roots. Portions of the branches from
one inch long upwards will strike root without any care or
trouble, merely requiring to be drieda little, and then planted
in dryish sandy soil. Many persons graft the Epiphyllum
upon the stronger Cactuses, and it is very effective to graft
the weak and pendulous varieties upon the robust, because
beautiful-formed standard plants or fountain-like plants may
be produced by such means. The Hpiphyllum truncatum, if
grown on its own bottom, droops all round the pot; but if
grafted on any of the strong-growing Cereus trunks (C. spe-
ciosissimus is the best), it forms a splendid weeping tree, which
ought to have a stem two feet high, for it will droop as much
as that; and, as all the flowers come at the ends of the
shoots, such plants are very beautiful when well grown and
flowered. Good plants have been produced with an upright
trunk of Cereus, having three distinct series of branches of
E. truncatum—one drooping nearly to the bottom, a second
smaller higher up, nearly drooping to that, and one at top
nearly reaching the second. ‘The grafting is easily done:
merely cut a slit in the stock, put in a bit of the kind to be
grafted, and tie it firmly. If the graft is of the larger sorts
cut the part to be inserted to the form of a wedge, insert it,
and stick a pin through both, to hold the scion in its place.
The best soil for these free-growing Cactuses is made of loam,
peat, and rotten dung, one-fourth each, added to one-fourth
part consisting of mortar rubbish and clean sharp sand in
equal proportions. The plants shouldalways be “‘ roasted” in a
hot dry place out of doors for a couple of months in the height
of summer, after they have made a growth of young shoots.
Three or four are generally cultivated—H. Ackermann, E.
Jenkinsonii, EH. speciosum, and EH. truncatum. ‘

106 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

ERANTHEMUM. ([Acanthacese.] Showy stove ever-
green soft-wooded shrubs. They bloom for the most part
late in summer, in the autumn, or winter, according to the
culture they receive. The soil required for them is a compost
of loam two parts, peat one part, thoroughly decomposed
cow or horse-dung and sand together one part. The plants
may be cut down to pretty near the old wood every season
after blooming. Cuttings may be struck in heat under a
bell-glass, and in sandy soil: one joint below and one above
the surface is length enough. When they are struck they
may be potted in three-inch pots, with good drainage. Give
them plenty of water, and keep them in the warmest part of
the stove until they become good strong plants. At the same
time that the older plants have done flowering, the young
ones may be placed with them in the coolest part of the house
to rest, and here only get enough water to keep them alive.
The flowers of most of this tribe come out in spikes at the
ends of the branches; and, although they soon look untidy
when they begin to fade, they are gay enough while in per-
fection, which happens among some or other of them the
greater part of the year. In short, they are free bloomers,
and are a long while in flower. The best are EL. albiflorum,
white ; H. pulchellum, blue; E. variabile, pale purple. There
are many other species in cultivation.

ERANTHIS. Winter Acontre. [Ranunculacee.} The
Winter Aconite is one of those simple flowers which please
more on account of the season of their appearance than their
beauty. This commences to bloom in January, often amidst
frost and snow, aud through February it continues to decorate
the garden and shrubbery. It is altogether not more than
three inches high, the flowers being seated one on each pair of
flat-lobed leaves, which terminate the stalk. They look like
little yellow cups, with their bases surrounded by green frills.
It is tuberous, and only requires to be planted in the soil
and left to itself. Planted just within the margin of a flower-
bed it interferes with nothing; and, if placed thick enough,
makes a conspicuous edging for some time. It is also very
well placed in patches among shrubs, or in any other wilder-
ness scenery, which it serves to enliven at a dreary season.

EREMAA. [Myrtaceze.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 107

Soil, peat and sandy loam. Propagated by cuttings in sand
under bell-glasses.

EREMOSTACHYS. Deserr Rop. [Labiate.] Hardy
herbaceous perennial, requiring protection from wet in winter,
and a sandy, loamy soil. It is best to preserve some plants in
pots in a dry frame during winter. Increased only by seeds.

ERICA. Hearn. [Ericacee.] This very extensive genus
of small evergreen shrubs are chiefly natives of the Cape of
Good Hope, and require the protection of a greenhouse or
dry frame in winter. The growth is as simple as it is
singular. Anything short of frost is not too cold for them;
no wind is too high for them; hardly any soil is too poor
for them; but forty-eight hours’ neglect of watering, when
they want it, destroys them. They strike from cuttings
under a bell- glass, in pots of well-drained, firmly- pressed
sandy peat, covered by half an inch of clean silver sand, the
bell-glasses being lifted frequently, wiped dry, and then re-
placed. The cuttings should be the tops of the moderately
strong-growing shoots, taken about an inch long. When
struck they require potting in a soil composed of three parts
turfy peat, rubbed through a coarse sieve, and one part clean
silver sand, well mixed together some time before being used.
Pot the young plant no deeper than it was when in the cut-
ting-pot; shift it when its roots fill the pot; water always
with rain water, or, for want of that, soft river water. Mil
dew is the greatest enemy of Heaths, to avoid which permit
a free circulation of air about them at all times, night and
day, and give every plant plenty of room—as much all
around its branches as it occupies. At each successive re-
potting keep the collar of the plant quite level with the
surface—rather higher than lower. A common frame and
light, placed on a hard dry foundation, are just the quarters
they like ; but they must be kept from damp, and daily exa-
mined with respect to their want of water. The soil ought
not to be too wet; but soil too dry is nearly certain de-
struction. The plants should not be shifted into larger pots
until the others are tolerably filled with roots. All the kinds
are beautiful, and the varieties are so numerous that it would
be impracticable within our limits to give a satisfactory de-
seription of them.

108 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

ERINOSMA. [Amaryllidacez.] A beautiful little hardy
bulb. Soil, sandy loam. Increased by offsets. The only
one worth growing is EH. verna.

ERINUS. [Scrophulariacee.] This genus contains some
dwarf hardy perennials, which form beautiful objects for pot
culture among alpine plants, as well as for rockwork. They
prefer light and rather sandy soil. When grown in pots
they should have the protection usually given to alpines,
which consists mainly in plunging the pots to prevent frosts
from acting on the roots, and in shielding off heavy rains,
which saturate the soil, and sometimes, if the drainage gets
deranged, become conducive to the decay of the plants by
rotting the roots and root-stocks. They are increased by
division, which should be done about July or August, or by
seeds sown as soon as they ripen. The greenhouse sub-
shrubby species are referred to NycrERINIA.

ERIOBOTRYA. Loaquat. [Pomacee.] Half-hardy ever-
green fruit trees, but seldom fruiting in this country. To
obtain this they require stove heat in winter. The foliage is
good. Soil, peat and loam. Propagated by cuttings in sand
in gentle heat, or by grafting on the Quince.

ERIOCOMA. [Composite.] Half-hardy evergreen shrubs.
Soil, sandy loam. Propagated by cuttings in sandy soil.

ERIOGONUM. [Polygonacee.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials. Soil, peat and loam. Increased by divisions or by
seeds.

ERIOPHORUM. Corron Grass. [Cyperacee.] Very
pretty hardy herbaceous perennials, whose beauty consists in
their silvery plume-like heads, formed of long white hairs,
which accompany the seeds. Soil, damp peat. Increased by
division. There are several native species, any of which
might be introduced with good effect to boggy hollows in a
rock garden.

ERIOSPERMUM. — [Liliacew.] Greenhouse bulbous
plants. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Increased by offsets.

ERIOSTEMON. [Rutacex.} Beautiful evergreen green-
house shrubs, possessing considerable similarity in the appear-
ance of the blossoms, though not in the general aspect of the
different kinds: the flowers are star-shaped, and more or less
tinged with a rosy hue. They are compact-growing shrubs

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 109

under good management; but to form handsome plants it is
desirable to allow the leading shoot to grow up uninjured, and
the plants then assume, with a little skill in managing the
lateral branches, a perfectly pyramidal form, which is their
natural habit of growth. Soil, three parts sandy peat to one
of sandy loam. Propagated by cuttings in sand under bell-
glasses. They require the general treatment of Boronia.
The following are the best :—Z. scabrum, white, in May. FE.
buwifolium, E. cuspidatum, FE. intermedium, E. lanceolatum, I.
nereifolium, all bloom white.

ERPETION. [Violacew.] Dwarf tufted-growing herba-
baceous plants, closely allied to the Violets. They are not
hardy, but may be preserved, with the choicer alpine plants,
in a frame from which frost is excluded. Their habit, like
that of some Violets, is to spread in dense tufts, so. as to cover
the surface of the soil in which they are grown. In conse-
quence of this creeping, rooting habit, they are very readily
multiplied by division. The proper soil for them is peat,
earth, made rather sandy, the pots being well drained.

ERYNGIUM. Erynco. [Umbelliferee.] A curious genus
of perennials, mostly hardy, remarkable for the coloured
bracts of the involucre, which constitute the showy part of
their inflorescence. They are desirable among hardy herba-
ceous subjects, the prevailing colour being blue. They belong,
in truth, to the umbelliferous order, without having any
external resemblance to that class of forms so familiar in the
parsley, the celery, the carrot, the fennel, &c. They are
raised from seeds, which, like those of other perennials, may
be sown in May, either in pots or in a bed. The young
plants, if nursed into strength, will bloom the following year ;
but of these subjects old plants are best if they are kept in
vigour. They are not very particular as to soil, but a deep
sandy loam is best.

ERYSIMUM. Hence Musrarp. [Crucifere.]| Hardy
plants, chiefly biennial, those which are cultivated being
treated as annuals: the majority are uninteresting objects.
FE. Perofskianum is, however, a very brilliant- flowered plant,

well adapted for beds in Dutch or geometrical gardens ;
indeed, there is hardly any other plant which furnishes ane
colour—an intense orange. It is perfectly hardy, and,

110 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

sown in the spring, will bloom in June and July. It will
bloom much earlier if sown in pots like half-hardy annuals,
and turned out in May, for it will then have beguu flowering
in the pots. The plant is too small for planting out,
but should be sown where it is to flower. If it comes up too
thick let it be properly thinned; but unless it is tolerably
close it makes no show, and would fail as a bed plant. It
looks well in patches round a border, aud in pots among
other dwarf blooming plants, because its colour is uncommon ;
indeed, but for its colour it would not be cultivated, for its
habit is weed-like.

ERYTHRINA. Corat Tree. [Leguminose, § Papilio-
nacee.| A showy genus, for the most part consisting of stove
shrubs. The most popular sorts, H. cristagalli and E. laurt-
folia, are, however, both very nearly hardy; that is to say,
they will live out of doors with about the same pains taken
with the Fuchsia, namely, to cut them down when they have
done flowering, and put some tan or litter over them for the
winter. These very popular species grow up from six to ten
feet high, and along the upper half there are large pea-like,
but very noble blood-coloured flowers, forming a spike of
bloom several feet long. ‘They are grown, as just mentioned,
in the open garden under a south or west wall, or in front of
a greenhouse; but they are also beautiful objects in pots.
Pot plants are kept dryish and im the greenhouse during the
winter. In spring they are started in a hotbed frame or a
stove, and as soon as growth commences require fresh potting.
Shake the old soil all away, and pot them in fresh compost, in
pots large enough to allow of their flowering without shifting:
a pot eighteen inches in diameter will suffice to bloom a strong
plant satisfactorily. Keep the plants in the stove near the
light, and let them grow on till they are nearly in flower,
when they may be removed to a conservatory or greenhouse.
The plants seem so thoroughly indifferent to seasons, that
by starting some into growth at one time, and some at another,
they may be had in bloom nearly all the year. When they
have done flowering let them rest in the greenhouse, being
kept dry, with the pots on their side. It is a good plan to
mark the dates on the pots, or take some other means of
knowing how long they have been at rest, because, in selecting

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. ill

them for starting, each plant can then be kept to its proper
season. ‘They are best propagated from cuttings of the young
shoots, which break from the collar, the same as with Dahlias.
the cuttings being put into sandy soil, and kept in a hotbed
till rooted. Cuttings of the old flowering stems cut into
lengths may also be used. When struck they must be grown
on until they become strong enough for flowering. The young
plants bloom weakly at first, but they soon acquire strength,
as they increase im size every season. ‘The plants intended
for outdoor culture may be planted under a south wall, and
when they have done flowering they will die down partially ;
but the stems should not be cut down until the middle of
September, and then only to within four inches of the ground ;
and a large flower-pot may then be turned over them, and
covered with a heap of tan or litter. Plants may be had in
flower from June to October, or earlier if forced at the proper
season.

ERYTHROLAINA. [Composite.] Half-hardy biennial.
Propagated by seeds. Sow in April, and keep the plants in a
frame during winter; then plant out in May in rich peaty
soil, and where there is plenty of space.

ERYTHRONIUM. Doe’s-ToorH Vioter. [{Liliacez.|
Pretty dwarf hardy spring-flowering herbaceous perennials,
with tuberous roots. They grow in good garden soil, pre
ferring a good proportion of peat earth. Increased readily
by offsets.

ESCALLONIA. [Escalloniacee.} Ornamental green-
house or half-hardy sub-evergreen shrubs, of which one or
two species are useful for covering outdoor walls in mode-
rately sheltered situations, for which purpose they should
only be planted where the soil is well drained and porous,
and not so rich as to excite luxuriant growth. They are
increased by layers (such as a mixture of loam, peat, and
road-grit) and by cuttings, and grow well in any moderately
good soil. EH’. macrantha, rose pink; E. Montevidensis, white ;
and H. rubra, pink or white.

ESCHSCHOLTZIA. [Papaveracee.] Hardy perennials,
which may be cultivated as annuals. The plants are procum-
bent, and form a low dense branching mass, abundantly fur-
nished with large poppy-like flowers, much more showy than

LIZ GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

neat. It is one of those flowers which always look untidy,
and owes its place in the garden to its bright colour and large
blooms. The seed may be sown in the early spring where it
is to grow, and when it comes up too close together it must
be thinned out. The plant has a tap-root like a small carrot.
There may be two complete seasons of bloom; for if the seed
be sown in autumn it will come up, and, unless the frost be
very severe, stand through the winter and bloom early. If
the plants are allowed to shed their seed the place will be
overrun as with a weed; and where it has once been sown or
planted it will afterwards require only to be thinned, for
hundreds of plants will come up. It makes a very brilliant
appearance in fine weather, and especially when contrasted
with the blue of the Convolvulus or Larkspur, and the scarlets
and purples of other flowers. The genus has been called
Chryseis.

EKUCALYPTUS. Gum Tree. [Myrtacex.| A large genus
of greenhouse evergreen shrubs, or rather trees, the majority
of which are far too large and coarse in their habit of growth
for select collections. They furnish much of the timber of
Australia. H. macrocarpa is, however, a very handsome shrub,
of moderate dimensions. ‘They grow readily in a compost of
loam three parts, and peat one part, with the ordinary treat-
ment of the coarser greenhouse shrubs. Propagated by
cuttings in sand. Many of the species will survive with shght
protection against a wall, and are remarkable plants in such
cases. EE. coccifera has survived the climate of Devonshire as
a standard.

EUCHARIDIUM. [Onagracee.] Hardy annuals, nearly
allied to Clarkia, and requiring the same treatment. They
are neat, but not very showy. Sow in March and April in
the open borders, and in autumn for early blooming.

EUCHILUS. [Leguminose, § Papilionacex.| Greenhouse
evergreen shrub. Soil, turfy peat, loam, and sand. Propa-
gated by cuttings in sand under bell-glasses.

EUCOMIS. {[Lilacez.| Greenhouse bulbs, from the
Cape of Good Hope. They bear long spikes of green flowers,
surmounted by a tuft of small leaves. Rich light soil. Pro-
pagated by offsets. Planted deeply at the foot of a wall they
will survive the winter.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 113

EUCROSIA. [Amaryllidacee.}] Stove bulb. Rich strong
loam. Increased by offsets. The bulbs require to rest in
winter. LH. bicolor, scarlet and green, is the best.

EUGENIA. {Myrtacee.| A genus of evergreen shrubs,
with white blossoms, nearly all of them requiring a stove
temperature. Soil, peat and loam equal parts, with sand.
Increased by cuttings in sand under bell-glasses. EH. Ugni is
a beautiful half-hardy shrub, very fragrant. . apiculata is
hardy, and very beautiful in flower.

EUONYMUS. Spinpite Tree. [Celastracee.] A genus
of hardy shrubs, of which HF. Japonicus and a striped variety
are fine evergreens with ornamental foliage, requiring slight
protection during winter in the climate of London. They
grow in common garden soil, and increase by layers, or cuttings
planted under hand-glasses. The deciduous kinds are proper
for shrubberies. They are not remarkable for beauty in the
flowers, but the evergreen species carry a fine foliage; and
some of the other species are ornamental in autumn, from the
profusion of three-cornered scarlet fruit which they produce.

EUPHORBIA. Spurce. [Euphorbiacex.] The Spurges
are mostly succulent or fleshy, often oddly-shaped plants,
without attractive flowers, and for the most part destitute
of conspicuous colours. The flowers, in fact, are in all cases
insignificant, the beauty of such as are showy residing in the
colour of the bracts which accompany the blossoms. The
hardy annual and perennial species are mostly mere weeds ;
but one or two hardy shrubby kinds, as H. characias and
FE. amygdaloides variegata, are worth a place in the borders.
They grow in common dryish soil, and increase by seeds.
Some of the stove and greenhouse leafless kinds are interesting
from their peculiar forms. They should be potted in sandy
loam, kept in the greenhouse, and have very little water in
winter. LE. splendens, Bojeri, and fulyens (the latter often
called Jacquinieflora) are very handsome stove shrubs.
FE. splendens has a branching stem, full of large brown
thorns, and bears conspicuous bunches of large waxy scarlet
organs, each consisting chiefly of two kidney-shaped bracts,
which accompany the true flowers. This species is in flower
the greater part of the year, and the blooms are abundant on
a slowly-grown plant. In habit it is inclined to be bushy,

I

114 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

but unless pains be taken it will soon get ill-shaped: the out-
line should be formed while it is young, and the plant must
be checked when it is too luxuriant. Thus, if any branches
are becoming too vigorous, take off their ends, to throw
strength into the rest of the plant. The soil should be half
loam and half peat, with a sixth part sand. The slower the
growth is made, so that it be healthy, the better and the more
abundant will be the bloom. EH. Bojeri is similar, but smaller,
and requires precisely similar treatment. HE. fulgens is totally
different in habit, having long, slender, thornless stems, and
altogether a light and elegant structure. The branches pro-
duce bright-looking lance-shaped leaves, and towards their
upper extremities bear a profusion of brilliant scarlet floral
organs of circular outline, consisting of five rounded bracts,
placed like the petals of an ordinary flower. Being very
milky, old plants are apt to die back when cut, unless kept
very dry until they renew their growth. Cuttings strike
readily with bottom heat in sand. As soon as rooted they
should be potted into three-inch pots. When they start into
growth take out the top, or heart: this will encourage lateral
shoots, which, as soon as they have grown two inches, may be
topped in a similar manner, and the other shoots being pro-
duced, a good bushy plant will be formed, which must then
be shifted occasionally as it fills the pot. Longish shoots will
be produced, which will in due time bear flowers all along
their upper half, and may be trained or disposed in any way
that may be preferred. The best plans, however, are to train
spirally around a cylinder-shaped trellis, or, commencing with
an upright, to train downwards over a balloon-shaped trellis.

EURYBIA. ([Composite.] Greenhouse or haif-hardy
evergreen shrubs, many of them with neat foliage, and showy
from the number of their flower-heads. Soil, sandy loam and
leaf-mould. Propagated by cuttings.

EURYCLES. [Amaryllidacez.] Pretty greenhouse bulb. !

Soil, light mellow loam, with one-fourth rotten cowdung and
one-eighth sand. Increased usually by offsets. The bulbs
require rest in winter. L. sylvestris and EH. nervosa require
“stove heat.

EUSTOMA. [Gentianacee.] Handsome greenhouse bien-
nials, requiring particular cultivation. ‘They must be grown

i

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 115

in a warm greenhouse, or even a cool part of the stove is
more congenial to them in their earlier stages of growth. The
plants are raised about May, and nursed through the autumn
and winter in a cool stove, being shifted and topped to impart
strength and bushiness. In spring they require to have a
good shift or two into very rich open soil, composed of loam,
peat, burnt clay, and decayed cowdung, equal parts, with sand
added ; they are then to be put into a brisk moist heat, in
which they grow freely: they must, however, have air enough
to prevent their drawing. They are exceedingly impatient of
an over-supply of water at every period of their growth. Unless
the plants are well topped when young they are apt to run up
tall and thin, and are then wuch less beautiful than when
nicely branched. Propagated by seeds. Also called Lisian-
thus, L. Russellianus being the most popular.

EUSTREPHUS. [Liliaceew.} Greenhouse evergreen
twiners. Soil, sandy peat. Propagated by cuttings of the
firm young shoots in sand under a bell-glass.

EUTAXIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionaces.] Pretty ever-
green greenhouse shrubs, of the hard-wooded section: they
require similar treatment to Dillwynia, Chorozema, &ec. Soil,
sandy peat and one-third loam. Propagated by cuttings in
sand under a bell-glass.

EUTHALES. [Goodeniacee.] Showy greenhouse herba-
ceous perennials, with curiously-constructed flowers. Soil,
peat and loam, equal parts. Propagated by cuttings of the
young firm shoots in a gentle heat.

EUTOCA. .[Hydrophyllacee.] Hardy annual plants, of
easy culture. Sow in March on a slight hotbed for trans-
plantation, and in April in the open borders.

EVENING PRIMROSE. See Cinoruera.

EVERLASTING FLOWER. See GwnapuHatium, APHE-
LEXIs, Paanocoma, HreLticurysum, &c.

EXOGONIUM. [Convolvulacex.] A division of the old
family Ipomaa. FE. purga, a very handsome slender climber,
bearing rosy-purplish blossoms through the autumn months,
is the source of the drug jalap. The plant has a fleshy root,
which is very liable to decay in winter if kept too damp.
The best place to keep the root is in a cool part of the green-
house in the soil, which should be nearly, but not quite dry.

116 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

In the spring the crown may be excited slowly in a green-
house or close frame; but as the summer draws on it will
grow freely enough in the open air, where it should have a
branchy stake or a trellis six or eight feet high. It may be
kept in a pot trained around stakes cylinder fashion, and
may be increased by cuttings. The flowers of this kind are
less funnel-shaped than is usual among the plants of this
order. E. filiforme, flowers purple. E. repandum, flowers
red.

FABIANA. [Solanacee.] A half-hardy evergreen shrub,
with twiggy branches, and white, tubular, or rather club-
shaped flowers. It is a pretty plant to place against a
sheltered wall; but a duplicate should be potted, and kept
during winter in a cool greenhouse in case of severe frost.
Sandy compost, containing a third part of peat earth. In-
creased by cuttings, planted in sand in a gentle heat. The
best is F’. imbricata, white.

FAIRY ROSE. See Rosa Lawrenceana.

FAN PALM. See Corypua.

FEATHER GRASS. See Stipa.

FEDIA. [Valerianacee.} Hardy annuals, one or two of
which are pretty objects, The best is F’. graciliflora. Sown
in pots about March, and planted out subsequently, the plants
bloom in June ; but if sown in the open ground in April they
bloom in July, in either case continuing in flower for some
time im succession. Planted moderately thick, this Fedia
forms a good bed plant. Light rich garden soil.

FELICIA. [Composite.] A small genus, containing a
neat dwarf half-hardy annual. Soil, rich light garden mould.
Increased by seeds. Sow in March in pots in a frame, and
in April in the borders. It is known as Aster tenellus.

FENNEL FLOWER. See NicELta.

FERRARIA. [Iridaceze.] Dwarf greenhouse bulb tubers,
rather curious than beautiful. Soil, sandy loam and peat,
equal parts. Increased by offsets or seeds. ‘The tubers
should be kept dry after the leaves have decayed.

FERNS. See under the several heads of Aprantum,
AsPLENIUM, AspipIumM, BLECHNUM, CHEILANTHES, GYMNO-
-“GRAMMA, Potypopium, Preris, PotysticHumM, ScoLoPEn-
pRIuM, DavauiiA, Lastrea, LycopopruM, SELANGINELLA, &c.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 117

_ FEVERFEW. See Prreturum.

FICUS. Fie Tree. {Moracee.] A large family of ever-
green shrubs, mostly requiring stove temperature. ‘Two or
three species, however, will grow in a greenhouse, and are
desirable evergreens of the easiest culture, rooting from
cuttings planted in any sandy soil, and placed in a frame,
and growing freely in a compost of mixed loam and peat.
The most interesting for this purpose are F’. elastica, which
has very large and thick elliptical leaves, and should be kept
as warm as possible; and F’. repens, a small, ivy-habited,
creeping, rooting-stemmed species, with leaves almost heart-
shaped. These are both good plants for window culture,
especially the former, which has a noble aspect; and, being
one of the plants whose milky juice forms India-rubber, is
called the Indiw-rubber tree. There are no conspicuons
flowers.

FIG MARIGOLD. See MresemBryanTHEMUM.

FILM FERN. See HymMenopuy.uvm.

FIR. See Pinus, Apres, Picza, &e.

FIRE LILY. See Pynotrrion.

FLAX. See Linum.

FLOWER.DE-LUCE. See Irts.

FLOWERING RUSH. See Buromus.

FORGET-ME-NOT. See Myosoris paLustRis.

FORSYTHIA. ([Oleacez.} Beautiful hardy deciduous
shrubs. Soil, sandy loam. Propagated by layers or cuttings.
F’. viridissima is a valuable shrub for early forcing and an
ornamental wall, but from its early blooming habit it re-
quires to be in a sheltered position, or its blossoms become
disfigured.

FORTUNZMA. [Juglandacee.] A half-hardy deciduous
shrub, with the aspect of a Sumach. Common loamy soil.
Increased by seeds.

FOXGLOVE. See Drerratis.

FRANCISCEHEA. [Scrophulariaceew.] Very ornamental
stove shrubs, requiring to be grown in a rough turfy compost
of three parts peat to one part loam. They are raised from
cuttings planted in sand under bell-glasses in a moderate
heat. The cuttings, when rooted, must be potted into small
pots in compost rather more sandy than that used for

118 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

established plants. They require to be kept in a moist stove
temperature while growing, and should be rested by placing
them in a drier and somewhat cooler temperature after each
growth is completed, the pots being changed for larger ones
as often as the roots become thick around the ball of earth.
The larger plants flower freely, and should be slightly pruned
in before they are excited to renew their growth. This keeps
them within bounds and of neat form. The flowers of all,
or nearly all the species open purple and change paler,
becoming almost white, and are often highly odoriferous. F’.
acuminata, purple; F’. eximia, violet; I’. hydrangeeformis,
purple; LF. latifolia. purple ; F’. uniflora, purple, are the best.

FRANCOA. ([Francoacee.] Herbaceous frame plants,
with showy spikes of flowers. They are best raised from
seeds sown in July in light soil, the pots being kept in a cool
frame. The young plants are to be potted singly, and kept
in rather smal] pots through the winter, unless they can be
put on a greenhouse shelf, where they would continue
growing. In spring they must be shifted into larger pots,
as the previous ones become filled with roots; and about
July and August they come into flower, and are very pretty
either bloomed in pots or planted out in the flower-borders
about May, when there is no further danger from frost. They
do not require heat; the protection of a frame is sufficient
for them if they are not kept too damp at the root. Some-
times they will survive the winter exposed, especially if in a
dry situation or sheltered against wet.

FRAXINELLA. See Dictamnvs.

FRAXINUS. Asx. [Oleacez.] Hardy deciduous trees.
Common soil. The Weeping Ash (f. excelsior pendula) is a
popular tree; the others are of more importance as timber
trees than in gardens or pleasure-grounds. It is propagated
by grafting standard high on the common Ash.

FRENCH MARIGOLD. See Taceres paruta.

FRINGE TREE. See Cutonanruvs.

FRITILLARIA. Friritiary. [Liliacee.] A genus of
hardy bulbs of easy culture, propagated without difficulty
by means of offsets. The bulbs should be planted in sandy,
loamy soil: when taken up for transplanting it should be
about August. All the species propagate by offsets, and

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 119

grow freely in the open ground without protection. They
mostly flower between March and May, and are thus very
useful in gardens as spring flowers. The most stately species
is the Crown Imperial, which bears a whorl of drooping
flowers, surmounted by a tuft or crown of leaves. ‘The
smaller species bear one or two drooping cup-shaped flowers.
The bulbs of the Fritillarias are scaly, and of a soft texture,
like those of Lilies; consequently they must not be dried by
being left long exposed at the period of replanting.
FUCHSIA. [Onagracee.] A beautiful genus of green-
house shrubs, from which a race of still more varied and
beautiful varieties has been produced by the skill of the
florist. The culture in all cases is very similar, making some
allowance for the natural differences in the size of the species.
They are raised very readily from cuttings planted in sandy
soil, and placed in a moist warm atmosphere, such as that of
a hotbed. The cuttings should be the little shoots produced
in spring, when two or three inches long. To obtain these
put the old plants in a warm temperature early in February,
and take the cuttings as early as they can be obtained.
When rooted pot them singly into three-inch pots, and
keep them in the hotbed near the glass until they begin to
grow freely, then give them more air and less heat: a hotbed
of nearly spent dung will be best for them, so that they
may be kept in a tepid moist atmosphere. By degrees they
must have more air until, about May, they are taken to a
warm greenhouse, and after that they may receive green-
house treatment. They must be potted into larger pots
as fast as the roots multiply, and the soil used should be one-
half mellow loam, one-fourth well-decomposed dung, and one-
fourth of leaf-mould, with about an eighth part of the whole
sand. The best form to grow a young plant is the pyramidal.
Train up a leading shoot, and if the plant is supplied with
pot room and plenty of light, and has not heat enough to
draw it out weak, it will form side-shoots in sufficient abun-
dance to produce a handsome outline, the branches being
allowed to take their own pendent form. After flowering is
over keep them nearly dry in any place beyond the reach of
frost. In March prune back all the side-shoots, and leave
only the upright stem; turn them out of: the pots, shake

120 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

away the soil, and prune back the roots; then pot them into
pots as small as will hold their roots. Place them in a moist
temperature, rather warmer than a greenhouse (about 55°),
and as the young shoots are produced thin away the super-
fluous ones, leaving enough to furnish the stem completely
with pendent lateral shoots. ‘Twelve-inch pots are large
enough to bloom very large Fuchsias in. Some of the stiffer-
growing varieties, including several of the foreign species, are
not adapted for pyramidal training: these must be shaped
into a neat spreading bush. Fuchsia seeds should be sown
in March in a warm frame, and the plants nursed on like
cuttings, only, as the object of raising seedlings is to obtain
improved sorts, they should not be shifted beyond a five-inch
pot until the first blooms indicate if they are worth better
treatment. They will do this in the early part of the summer.
Cultivators are too apt to grow Fuchsias in very rich compost,
and to over-excite them with heat, in order to increase their
size; but the consequence is that the beauty and symmetry of
the plants are destroyed. The plants are much more compact
and of better form if they are grown entirely without artificial
heat; they should, moreover, be grown near the glass, and
turned round whenever they lean towards the light. Under
this treatment they will not grow rapidly, because they will
have nothing to excite them; but they will be close, well
furnished with leaves, short-jointed, and handsome in form.
Fuchsias may be grown in a cold frame as well as a green-
house all the summer; or a great part of the time they may
be in the open air, in any part sheltered from the wind. The
garden sorts are so diversified that it is useless to particularise
them: those that are best one year are usually surpassed the
following by more novel varieties. Many of the original
species of Fuchsia are very distinct and showy plants, and
present many variations of habit and appearance from those
raised in gardens.

FUMARIA. See Dieryrra.

FUNKIA. [Liliacez.] Very pretty hardy herbaceous
perennials. They grow freely in any light common soil, and
require no particular culture; but they must have a warm
dryish situation to induce them to bloom freely. Increased
by division of the roots. The best is F’. grandiflora.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 121

’ FURZE. See ULEx.

GAGEA. — [Liliacee.] Hardy bulbs, closely related to
Ornithogalum. Light sandy soil. Increased by offsets.

GAILLARDIA. [Composite.] Showy hardy and half-
hardy perennials. Soil, sandy loam or light garden soil.
Increased by division. G. picta, a soft-stemmed plant,
used for flower-garden decoration, requires protection from
frost in a dry frame during winter, and is raised from seeds
or cuttings in autumn for planting out in the following May.

GALANTHUS. Syowprop. [Amaryllidacee.] Well-
known hardy bulbs, dwarf, pretty, and very general favourites,
partly, perhaps, from the season at which they appear, as the
heralds of spring. The bulbs require planting in October in
common soil, and should be left undisturbed for several years ;
they then form thick patches, and are more showy when in
flower. They should be planted in patches instead of single
rows along the edging of borders. There are single and
double.

GALAXIA. [Iridacee.] Greenhouse bulbs. Soil, sandy
peat, with one-third fibry loam. Propagated by offsets. The
bulbs require to be rested in winter.

GALEGA. Goat's Ruz. [{Leguminose, § Papilionacee.]
Large-growing hardy perennials. Common soil. Increased
by division or by seeds.

GARDENIA. ([Cinchonacez.| A most desirable family
of evergreen stove or greenhouse shrubs, containing many
noble species. We shall confine ourselves, however. to the
popular species, commonly known as Cape Jasmines, which
are grown abundantly for the London market. G. radicans
grows eighteen inches high, but it may be produced with
bloom on it in the smallest-sized pots. It may be grown to
perfection in a common hotbed; indeed, no place suits it
better. Take cuttings about three inches long of the points
of the half-ripe shoots as early in the season as they can be
had; plant them firmly in pots of very sandy loam and peat,
having about an inch of sand on the top, and let them be
well watered, to settle the sand and soil close to their stems.
Place the cutting-pots in the shady part of a hotbed, and
water sufficiently often to keep the sand moist. When they

are rooted pot them separately in three-inch' pots, using for

122 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

compost equal parts of loam and turfy peat made rather
sandy, and putting in the bottom of the pots broken crocks
an inch in depth for drainage; water them, and place them
again in the dung-bed near the glass. When they fill the
pots with roots they must be changed to fiye-inch pots, and
returned to the dung-bed, which will decline in heat below as
the summer advances, but will still preserve a moist warmth,
which is very congenial to these plants. They must be shaded
from the violent heat of the sun. If there should be sudden
diminution of heat and unhealthy change in the bed, the
plants are very likely to be attacked with the red spider or
some other pest; but if the heat be kept regular and moist,
and the plants are not neglected, there will be healthy growth
and rapid progress. As summer advances they may have a
good deal more air, particularly while the sun is out; but great
attention must be paid to watering, a little neglect of which
would be mischievous. The pots must be changed for larger
as the roots become numerous. In September the plants
must be removed to a warm part of the greenhouse, or to an
intermediate house, and kept rather dry and at rest during
winter. As early in the year as may be required they may
be again placed in a hotbed, or in a moist warm house, and
will soon show their beautiful white blooms. When they
begin to open the plants should be removed to the con-
servatory, greenhouse, or dwelling-house, that their fragrance
may be enjoyed. After the bloom is over the plants may be
put for a short time in the greenhouse to rest; but as soon
as they begin to grow, and as early as practicable, prune them,
reduce the soil and roots somewhat, repot them, and start
them again into rapid growth in the hotbed, for that is the
best climate for them, and next to it the moist atmosphere cf
an orchid house. All the varieties are pretty, but G. radicans
and G. florida are the favourites. The most vigorous young
shoots may be topped once when about two joints long, to
cause the production of a greater number of shoots, and con-
sequently of blooms, which should come at the points of nearly
all the shoots. G. florida and its varieties, Fortuni and inter-
media, ave larger-growing and finer plants, and require the
same treatment. The double-flowered varieties of both species
are to be preferred.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 123

GARDOQUIA. [Labiate.] Greenhouse evergreen sub-
shrubs, remarkable for the abundance of their flowers, which
are tubular, and open all along the branches. Soil, a light
mixture of peat, loam, and sand. Cuttings strike freely in
sand under a bell-glass in a moist heat. G. Hookeri—
which we retain here on account of its being popularly known
by this name, though it is more correctly Calamintha coccinea
—is by far the handsomest of them. The cuttings, when
rooted, should be potted into three-inch pots, in a sandy mix-
ture of three parts peat to one of loam: they should be grown
near the glass in the greenhouse, with a liberal supply of
water ; but the drainage must be perfect, for stagnant moisture
would soon destroy them. As they fill their pots with roots
they must be changed to those a size larger; and until a
sufficiently large plant is formed all the young shoots, when
two inches long, must have their points nipped out: this will
make them come bushy. When they have grown so as to fill
a thirty-two sized pot they will flower abundantly.

GARRYA. [Garryacee.] One of the most graceful of
evergreen shrubs. Its chief beauty, however, consists in its
long catkins, which in the winter hang down in elegant tassels
from the ends of all the shoots: these catkins, which, in fact,
consist of the male bloom, are of a greenish-yellow colour.
It is hardy, grows shrubby, and is manageable under the knife,
so that it may be kept bushy and short, or allowed to grow
more pyramidal and elegant. It prefers a loamy soil, not too
adhesive, and is propagated best by layers, which, if put down
one autumn, will secure plants by the next. The layers
should be cut off in autumn and potted, placed im a cold
frame to establish themselves, and may then at any time be
planted out where they may be seen to advantage, for they
would be lost in a crowd of brighter shrubs. They may also
be increased by cuttings plauted under hand-glasses towards
the end of summer. One of its claims to attention is that it
blooms while very small, and looks very well in a pot. Its
blooms, or rather catkins, remain for some time in perfection.
G. elliptica, G. laurifolia, and G. macrophylla are the best.

GASTERIA. [Liliacee.] Greenhouse succulent peren-
nials, forming one of the divisions of the well-known genus
Aloe. Soil, sandy loam, well drained. Increased readily by

124 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

suckers. The flowers are mostly red or scarlet, and produced
in June and July. A collection of them with other succu-
lents is very interesting, both on account of their handsome
flowers and curious fleshy leaves.

GASTROLOBIUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionacez.|
Beautiful evergreen greenhouse shrubs. They require the
same treatment as Chorozema, Dillwynia, &c. Soil, three
parts turfy peat to one part loam, with a sixth of sand. In.
creased by cuttings in sand under a bell-glass.

GAULTHERIA. {Ericacee.] Pretty dwarf procumbent
hardy and greenhouse evergreen shrubs, requiring moist peaty
soil. Increased by layers and seeds. G. procumbens, hardy
trailing evergreen shrub, and G. Shallon, hardy evergreen
shrub, flower white.

GAURA. [Onagracee.] Showy hardy plants, mostly
biennials. Soil, sandyloam. Increased by seeds. G. Lind-
heimeriana is a very elegantly branched free-blooming plant,
and, though perennial, is perhaps best treated as a biennial :
it blooms freely, however, the first year from the seed, if sown
in March with the half-hardy annuals. Its hardiness is yet
scarcely tested.

GAY-BINE. See Puarsiris.

GAYLUSSACIA. [Vacciniacez.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, turfy peat. Increased by layers.

GAZANIA. [Composite.] Greenhouse herbaceous plants,
producing large and very showy yellow or orange-coloured
composite flowers. Soil, loam, leaf-mould, and sand. In-
creased by division or by cuttings. They require little care
beyond ordinary routine greenhouse management, and to be
occasionally repotted as they become thickly rooted. G. uni-
flora is of a different habit from the rest, producing numerous
branching stems, and forms a good bedding-out plant for the
flower garden in summer if planted in a dryish situation.
Cuttings struck about August in one season form good bloom-
ing plants for the next summer: they should be frequently
stopped while young.

GEISSORHIZA. Tite Roor. {[Iridacew.] Greenhouse
or half-hardy bulbs, related to Ixia, and requiring similar
treatment. Soil, sandy peat two-thirds to one-third loam.
Increased by offsets.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 125

GELASINE. [Iridacee.] A pretty half-hardy bulb.
Soil, sandy loam. Increased by offsets. The best is G.
azurea, blue.

GENISTA. [(Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] A genus of
shrubs, of which most of the species are hardy. These suc-
ceed well in ordinary garden soil, mostly preferring dryish
situations, and are best increased by seeds. The hardy trail-
ing species are admirable plants for rockwork. The greenhouse
kinds are very ornamental and free-blooming plants. They
are propagated readily by cuttings planted in sandy soil, and
placed in a frame. The plants should be potted in light
loamy compost; and if moderately shifted, and the young
shoots frequently topped, they soon make good bushy plants.
The flowers of some of these are highly fragrant.

GENTIANA. Gentian. ([Gentianacee.| Beautiful
hardy herbaceous plants. G. acaulis, sometimes called Gen-
tianella, has been often chosen as an edging for flower-beds
and borders: a light, but not poor soil is required for it, and
when once planted it does not like to be disturbed; conse-
quently the edgings are allowed to grow wide, and it is then
that it begins to bloom profusely. The plant will not flower
till it has begun to grow well. The soil should be prepared
for the plants by forking in some peat earth with the ordinary
soil; they may then be planted and watered to settle the
earth about their roots. The brilliant blue of their bell-like
flowers, turned up, however, instead of hanging down, is so
intense that they form a most striking object anywhere. The
whole plant, when in flower, is not four inches high; yet the
blossom is almost as long as that of a Canterbury Bell. It is
an evergreen, and when not in flower is by no means a bad
edging. Many of the other species are most beautiful border
flowers. They should be planted in good rich soil, and most
of them prefer a considerable proportion of peat earth. They
are propagated readily by dividing the plant in autumn or
spring. ‘The hardy annual and biennial species are of much
less horticultural importance, and a new one, recently added,
is said to surpass all the familiar varieties.

GERANIUM. Crane’s Bitz. [Geraniacee.] Ornamental
herbaceous plauts. Common garden soil. Increased readily
by division or by seeds. See also PELARGONIUM.

126 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

GERMANDER. See Truvcrivm.

GESNERA. ([Gesneracee.] A showy genus of stove
perennials, many of which have tuberous roots, and some are
shrubby. Soil, turfy peat earth, leaf-mould, and fibry loam,
with an eighth part sand. The tuberous kinds must have a
pot suited to the size of the bulb. They require to be placed
in a hotbed frame or in the stove, and must be grown near
the light. As soon as the pot is filled by the fibres of the
plant, and they begin to grow round its side, the plant must
be shifted to a larger size. When first potted they must
have no water; but as soon as they begin to grow water is to
be moderately applied, and when they are in full growth they
require to be liberally supplied. The plants should occupy a
light part of the stove until the buds show for bloom, and
when this is the case they should be shaded from the direct
rays of the sun. When they have done flowering no more
water is to be given, and the plants are placed away on a
shelf to rest, and remain dry until the shoots make their
appearance, when they are examined, and, if necessary, re-
potted. To propagate them take off some of the young
shoots when about two inches long, and plant them in sandy
peat, and place them under a bell-glass in a hotbed frame.
When rooted pot off and: shift as before, only young plants
in which the tubers are hardly formed must not be dried so
much as the old ones. This treatment is proper for the
tuberous-rooted kinds, of which G. bulbosa and G. zebrina are
desirable in the smallest collections. The latter has a scaly
rhizome like Achimenes, and is propagated by fragments of
that. They may be propagated, like Gloxinias, by cuttings
of the leaves. To have a succession of bloom start some in
January, others in February, and a third portion in March.
G. zebrina is a beautiful winter-blooming plant started about
August. The shrubby kinds are raised from cuttings, which
are shifted on when rooted so as to form bushy plants, but are
otherwise treated like the rest, except as to drying them when
past blooming.

GETHYLLIS. [Amaryllidacee.} Interesting small
greenhouse bulbs. Soil, sandy peat and loam. Increased
by offsets. .

GEUM. Avens. [Rosacee.] Hardy perennials, some

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 1907

ornamental. Soil, sandy loam. Propagated by division or
by seeds. G. pratense and G. grandiflorum are the best.

GILIA. [Polemoniacee.] Favourite hardy annuals, with
small cup-like, but very pretty simple flowers. There are
several varieties, and but little to distinguish them one from
the other save the different shades of colour. G. tricolor is
the best for general purposes; it is neat, dwarf, and quiet.
Being as hardy as most of the annuals, it may be sown in
March, and again in April and May, where it is to bloom,
aud should not be too much crowded. It will bloom from
June onwards in succession. It is not sufficiently bright
or striking to be effective in geometrical gardens. It may
also be sown in September in open dryish places; and, unless
the winter is very severe, it will survive and give early bloom.
G. tricolor is the favourite.

GILLENIA. [Rosacex.] Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Peaty soil, rather moist. Propagated by division.

GLADIOLUS. Corn Frac. [Iridaceee.] Beautiful per-
ennial plants, with bulb-tuberous roots. Some few are quite
hardy, and the remainder are for the most part set down as
greenhouse plants; but in fact they flower in the open air
stronger and better than under any other mode of culture.
They may be planted in the autumn six to eight inches deep
in a warm border, and a few inches of litter, or some equi-
valent protection in the event of frost, given them for the
winter. When grown in pots it is necessary to place them
in frames during the winter season. Sandy loam and peat is
the best compost; and in the beds or borders on which they
are grown the soil ought to reach a foot or eighteen inches
deep. After flowering they require no water. The roots
multiply abundantly by offsets, which should be planted in
nursery-beds ; and after one year’s growth the largest will be
strong enough for flowering, the smaller ones being still kept in
nursery-beds until they reach a flowering size. They may
also be raised from seed, which should be sown in pans very
thinly in February, and be placed in the greenhouse or frame,
covered with a hand-glass. When the plants are up they
must be cleaned from every weed, and’ watered occasionally ;
and the hand-glass may be removed, because, after the first
three or four days, they want no more protection than the

128 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

greenhouse will give. When the leaves die down in autumn
the small bulbs must be carefully taken up, fresh pans pro-
vided with the proper soil, and the bulbs replaced an inch
apart all over the surface, the bulbs being covered about an
inch. They must be kept in the greenhouse until they come
up again in the spring. Give water when they want refresh-
ment, and keep clear of weeds until the foliage dies down
again, when the bulbs may be taken up, and in November
planted again three or four in a three-inch pot, and kept in
the greenhouse. At the end of this season’s growth they
will be of a good size. In November they may be planted
out of doors on a south border, covered with litter during the
frosty months, and be left to themselves after the beginning
of May, and in June and July they will most likely flower.
After the first year they may, if more convenient, be planted
in prepared beds in a sheltered part of the garden. ‘There
are many beautiful varieties and hybrids raised in gardens.
The hardy sorts may be planted permanently in the borders,
and require no further care. There are three divisions of
the more tender sorts: the earliest blooming, as G. blandus,
&c., may be planted in October; the intermediate sorts, as
G. ramosus, &c., in December; and the later ones, as G. Nata-
lensis, &e., in February or March. Any of them may be
grown in good-sized pots, three or four bulbs in a pot ; and if
kept in a frame till they flower they make fine ornaments
for greenhouses, conservatories, colonnades, &c. ‘The garden
varieties are endless, and many of them fine.

GLEICHENIA. ([Polypodiacee.] Very elegant ferns,
requiring the protection of a stove or greenhouse. But two
or three species are in cultivation. Soil, sandy peat, with
a little loam. Increased sparingly by division, or some-
times from the spores. The principal are G. dicarpa and
G. polypodioides, both evergreens.

GLOBE AMARANTH. See GomPuHrRena.

GLOBE FLOWER. See TRot.tius.

GLOBE THISTLE. See Ecurnops.

GLOBULARIA. [Selaginacee.] Dwarf herbaceous
plants, nearly or quite hardy. Soil, sandy loam and peat.
Increased by cuttings of the young shoots under a hand-light
in summer.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN, 129

GLORIOSA. [Melanthacee.| Beautiful bulbous stove
climbers, requiring to be kept dry when at rest, to be grown
freely in a strong moist heat, and then ripened off after
flowering, and kept dry till the following spring. The green-
house kinds require a less moist atmosphere. Soil, turfy
peat, fibry loam, leaf-soil, old cowdung, and sand in equal
proportions. Increased by separating the bulbs at the time
of repotting, which should be done annually about March,
or by seeds. G. superba is the principal variety cultivated.

GLORY PEA. See CriantHus.

GLOSSOCOMIA. [Campanulacee.] Hardy herbaceous
perennials. Common soil. Increased by seeds or divi-
sion.

GLOXINIA. [Gesneracee.] Stove bulbous-rooted per-
ennials of dwarf habit, and with very showy and very abun-
dant blossoms. They require to be repotted annually, using
a compost of loam, dung, turfy peat, and sand in equal por-
tions, and in pots scarcely broader than the width of the
bulb. As the roots fill the pots they must be changed to
larger, and the plants must be grown on the front shelves or
tables of the stove in the full light, to prevent their being
drawn up. They want considerable moisture while growing ;
but after the bloom has declined water should be gradually
withheld, and the pots set back on the shelves, and remain
undisturbed until growing time comes again, which will be
indicated by the starting of the buds on the top of the bulbs.
To propagate them take any of the supernumerary shoots
from the bulb when they are an inch and a half Jong, and
strike them in small pots under a bell-glass, after which they
may be potted off and shifted till they bloom; or plants may
be raised from the leaves planted as cuttings. To raise from
seed sow in March; keep the pots in the stove till the plants
are up; when large enough they may be pricked out three
or four in a three-inch pot; and in due time pot them singly,
and treat them like the older plants. The flowers are usually
pendulous. The garden varieties eclipse the species.

GNIDIA. [Thymelacex.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs
of neat habit, but not producing very conspicuous flowers.
They are raised from cuttings, treated like those of the Heath
family, and require very similar general management. Soil,

K

130 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

turfy peat, mixed with a fourth part of light loam and a
sixth part sand. G. pinifolia and G. simplex are the best.

GOAT’S RUE. See Gatrea.

GODETIA. [Onagracexe.] Showy hardy annuals, nearly
related to Ginothera. Sown in the open beds or borders in
March and April, to flower in June, July, and August. As
soon as the plants come up they should be thinned, for if
crowded they grow weakly, and do not flower so well: six
or eight plants may be left in a patch. If they are required
early they may be sown in pots in March, to be forwarded
in frames, and turned out in May: the pots must be kept, in
this case, near the light, and beyond the reach of frost, which,
while the plants were young and tender, would injure them.
Several of the species are too much like others. When
vigorous the plants remain some time in bloom.

GOLDEN ROD. See Soripaco.

GOMPHOLOBIUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.|
Greenhouse evergreen shrubs, some of them climbers, and
all among the most beautiful of greenhouse plants. The
general treatment of Chorozema, Dillwynia, &c., is suitable
to this genus. The climbing species, which, though shrubby,
are of very slender growth, require to be carefully handled in
training. ‘To have a blaze of flowers the common plan of
training them over a large flat shield-like trellis may be
adopted ; but a more elegant effect is produced by a some-
what careless style of training on a pillar or column-shaped
trellis, such plants being also more convenient in a green-
house, and harmonising better in their forms with the general
contour of the plants around them, than is the case with flat-
sided trellises of any design. Very perfect drainage and very
careful watering are indispensable to the healthiness of Gom-
pholobiums. Soil, light turfy peat, with one-third mellow
loam and an eighth part sand. Increased by cuttings in
sand under a bell-glass, or by seeds, which are not unfre-
quently produced. There are many varieties.

GOMPHRENA. Gtope Amaranto. ([Amaranthacez.]
Stove plants, some perennial and others annual. The popular
kind is G. globosa, familiarly known as the Globe Amaranth.
It is an annual, and has long been raised in company with
Cockscombs, Egg plants, and Balsams, and regarded as one

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 131

of the principal tender annuals. The seeds should be sown
in February or March, not too thickly, and placed in a hotbed
or in a hothouse. As soon as the young plants are large
enough to be handled they may be transplanted four or five
in a three-inch pot, where they may grow until large enough
to be potted singly into pots of the same size. ‘They are best
grown close to the glass in a hotbed of moderate warmth;
but after they are somewhat advanced, and the weather be-
comes warm, they may be grown in a greenhouse kept rather
close and damp. The young plants must be shifted into larger
pots as often as the roots make their appearance through the
bottom of the pots, until at last they will be a foot high,
nearly as much through, and covered, about August or
earlier, with their clover-like heads of flowers. They seed
freely ; and the flowers continue a long time after they are
gathered and dried, the petals being chaffy or scaly, like those
of Everlasting flowers. G. pulchella, another pretty annual
kind, though not as yet very commonly grown, deserves to
be so.

GONIOPTERIS. ([Polypodiacee.} A genus of ferns,
consisting for the most part of stove species. Soil, peat,
loam, and sand. Increased by division. G. Foster? is the
best.

GOODENIA. [Goodeniacee.] Greenhouse plants, with
rather pretty flowers. Soil, peat and loam, with sand. In-
creased by cuttings in sand placed in a hotbed, or by. seeds.

GOODIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Greenhouse
evergreen shrubs. Soil, peat and loam, with sand. Increased
by cuttings in sand placed in a hotbed.

GOODYERA. [Orchidacee.] A genus of perennial herbs,
two or three of which are hardy, requiring to be grown in
spongy, peaty soil, in a shady situation not affected by
drought. The most interesting is G. discolor, a stove species,
which bears very ornamental spikes of white flowers during
winter, and is therefore desirable on account of its blossoms,
as well as for its velvety foliage, which is of a very dark green
on the upper, and dull red on the lower surface. It is nearly
related to Ancectochilus, but more easily managed, requiring
to be potted in loose turfy peat and potsherds, and to be kept
in a damp hot atmosphere. It is propagated by division.

182 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

GORDONIA. [Ternstrémiacee.| Fine deciduous shrubs,
which are nearly hardy, requiring peat soil, and a damp but
sheltered situation. G. lasianthus is a suitable plant for a
cold conservatory. G. Javanica requires a warm greenhouse.
Iucreased by cuttings of the young shoots in sand under a
bell-glass. G. pubescens is a favourite.

GOSSYPIUM. Corton Trex. [Malvacex.] Stove plants.
The common Cotton tree, G. herbaceum, is a stove annual,
requiring similar treatment to the Balsam.

GRAMMANTHES. ([Crassulacee.] Pretty little green-
house annuals. Sandy loam, finely broken charcoal, and leat-
mould, equal parts, will be a proper soil. Sow thinly in five-
inch pots, in which they are to flower, being thinned out
moderately if they come up too near each other.

GRAMMITIS. [Polypodiacee.] Interesting simple-leaved
dwarf ferns. Soil, peat and loam. Increased by division.
They are mostly tropical plants.

GRAPE HYACINTH. See Muscart.

GREEK VALERIAN. See Potemonium.

GREVILLEA. [Proteacee.| A large genus of green-
house shrubs, most of the species interesting evergreens, but
not possessing a gaudy character. They are increased by
cuttings planted in sand, and placed under bell-glasses on a
shady shelf in a gréenhouse, or in a frame. The plants should
be grown in equal parts loam and peat earth of a turfy tex-
ture, the compost being made rather sandy for the younger
ones, which are to be at first potted into small pots, and
shifted imto larger ones only when they become pretty well
filled with roots. The plants should have the tips of the
young shoots removed when an inch or two long, until they
have acquired some size, under which treatment they will be
bushy and well furnished with branches quite down to the
pots. The flowers are of very curious structure.

GRIFFINIA. [Amaryllidacee.} Pretty stove bulbs.
The general treatment should be that given to the stove
species of Amaryllis. Soil, peat, loam, leaf-mould, and sand.
Propagated by offsets. G. hyacinthina, one foot high, is good.

GRINDELIA. [Composite.] Greenhouse or half-hardy
plants. Soil, peat and loam. Increased, the sub-shrubby
kinds by cuttings, the others by division or by seeds.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 133

GUELDER ROSE. See Visurnvum.

GUERNSEY LILY. See Nerine Sarnrensis.

GUIZOTIA. [Composite.}] Hardy annual. Cultivated
in Southern Europe as an oil plant. Soil, light rich
loam. Increased by seeds. G. oleifera is the only one culti-
vated.

GUM TREE. See Eucaryptus.

GUZMANNIA. [Bromeliacee.] A showy stove peren-
nial, allied to Au’chmea and Vriesia. This plant has long
narrow leaves, from the centre of which grows an erect spike,
terminated by broad overlapping bracts, which at the top are
scarlet, and below are green striped with brown, the flowers,
which the bracts almost conceal, being white. The treatment
recommended for Aichmea will suit this also. All the plants
of this race should have a period of repose answering to wiuter,
in which they should be kept comparatively dry and cool ;
their growth is then much more vigorous when heat and
moisture are increased in spring. G. tricolor is one foot
high, and flowers green, red, and white.

GYMNADENIA. ([Orchidaceze.] Hardy tuber-bearing
perennials, with pretty flowers. Soil, chalky loam. Increased
sparingly by division of the roots or by seeds. All more
curious than beautiful.

GYMNOGRAMMA. [Polypodiacee.] Beautiful ferns,
for the most part requiring stove temperature, and comprising
the species whose leaves, covered beneath with a white or a
yellow powdery matter, have obtained them the name of the
Gold and Silver Ferns. Soil, peat, loam, and sand. Increased
by division, or very readily by the spores or seeds scattered
over a damp rough surface of peat earth.

GYNERIUM ARGENTEUM. ([Graminee.} Pampas
Grass. Highly ornamental, hardy, and of the easiest culture.

GYPSOCALLIS. [Ericacee.] Beautiful little evergreen
hardy shrubs, formerly known as Hrsias. They require to be
planted in a bed of peat earth, with Rhododendrons, Ledums,
&c., and should occupy the outer parts. If the situation is
rather moist it is preferable, otherwise they require to be
abundantly watered in spring while making their new growth.
Increased by layers. ‘

GYPSOPHILA. ([Caryophyllaceew.] Hardy herbaceous

184 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

perennials, with one or two exceptions. Some of them are
pretty, producing a number of small flowers, usually white,
on much-branched stems. All the smaller species of the
genus, which is rather extensive, are well adapted for rock-
work. They like a dryish soil, especially if intermixed with
calcareous matter, or old lime, or brick rubbish. They miust
be propagated by seeds or cuttings, their tap-rooted habit not
generally admitting of safe increase by division.

HABENARIA. ([Orchidacew.] A genus of herbaceons
perennials, containing one or two hardy species. Soil, moist
peat. Propagated by division.

HABRANTHUS. [Amaryllidaceze.] Greenhouse bulbs
with showy flowers. Soil, sandy loam, with one-third peat.
Propagated by offsets or by seeds. They flower without the
leaves after a season of rest.

HABROTHAMNUS. [Solanacee.] Elegant greenhouse
shrubs of large growth. They are very showy when planted
out in a cool conservatory, either in borders or against pillars
or the back wall; but in pots they are incommodious, requirmg
to be grown very large in order to obtain a free development
of flowers. They may be grown on conservative walls if the
branches and roots are sheltered from wet in winter, and the
soil is thoroughly drained, and not too rich, so as to check
exuberant growth; but their habit under such treatment would
be somewhat changed. Soil, rich loam and peat. Propagate
very readily by cuttings. H. purpureus, H. elegans, and H.
Fasciculatus are good.

HACQUETIA. [Umbellifere.} A small hardy herha-
ceous perennial. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Increased by
division. H. epipactis, flowers yellow, in April.

HAEMADICTYON. [Apocynacee.] Handsome evergreen
stove twining shrubs, allied to Echites. Soil, fibry peat and
loam, with a sixth part sand. Propagated by cuttings in sand -
in a hotbed, under a bell-glass. H. venosum has beautiful
red-veined foliage. H. suberectum and H. venosum flower
yellow, in July.

HASMANTHUS. Buroop Frower. [Amaryllidacee. |
Greenhouse bulbous plants, most of them not very showy.
Soil, sandy loam, with an equal portion of peat, old cowdung,
and sand. Increased by offsets. ‘There are numerous species

~

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 138:

5

from the Cape of Good Hope. H. inisgnis is a very showy
plant.

HAKEA. ([Proteacew.| Greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
with inconspicuous flowers. Soil, turfy peat and loam, equal
parts, with a sixth part sand. Increased by cuttings in sand
under a bell-glass. ‘There are numerous species, all from
New Holland.

HARDENBERGIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee. |
Greenhouse evergreen twiners of great beauty, closely allied
to Kennedya. ‘They are proper for training over the pillars
and rafters of the house. Soil, turfy peat, with one-third
loam, and a liberal addition of sand. Increased by cuttings
in sand placed in a hotbed, or by seeds, which are frequently
produced.

HARE’S EAR. See Buprevrvm.

HART’S-TONGUE FERN. See ScoLopenprivum.

HAWORTHIA. [Liliacee.| Interesting dwarf green-
house succuleut-leaved perennials. closely related to Aloes.
Soil, sandy loam, well drained. Increased by division. ‘There
are many species, but none very striking.

HAYLOCKIA. [Amaryllidacee.| Interesting small bulb-
ous plants, requiring greenhouse or frame protection. Soil,
sandy loam, with one-fourth peat or leaf-mould. Increased
by offsets. H. pusilla is a greenhouse bulb, flowers pale
yellow, in September.

HEATH. See Erica.

HEBENSTREITIA. ~[Selaginacee.] Small - flowered
greenhouse sub-shrubs. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Increased
by cuttings in sand in a hotbed, or by seeds.

HEDERA. Ivy. [Araliacee.} A well-known hardy
evergreen climber, of which there are several varieties. The
tender Lyies are of little interest. Common garden soil suits
the Ivy, but it grows quicker if it be rich and deep. Increased
by cuttings in autumn in a moist sandy soil. The best of
the varieties for general purposes are the Irish and H. Reg-
neriana, the latter with large heart-shaped leaves.

HEDGEHOG CACTUS. See Ecurnocactvs.

HEDGE MUSTARD. See Erysrmum.

HEDGE NETTLE. See Sracuys.

HEDYCHIUM. [Zingiberacew.] Beautiful stove herba-

136 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

ceous perennials, growing five or six feet high, and bearing
white, orange, scarlet, or yellow flowers. Soil, turfy loam,
peat, old dung, in equal proportions, with a liberal allowance
of coarse sharp sand. The plants shouid be fresh potted in
January or February, having been previously rested by being
kept drier and cool during winter. Turn out the plants, take
off the suckers, and repot “the roots in appropriate-sized pots,
not larger than necessary, in order that when the first pot is
filled with roots it may be exchanged for one of larger size.
They require through the growing season a liberal supply of
water. When the colours are showing they should be put in
the coolest part of the stove, that they may be prepared for
removal to the conservatory. From the time the bloom
decays they should be allowed to rest, receiving but little
water ; they would, in fact, do in the greenhouse until the
repotting time. The period of blooming is some time during
the latter part of the summer, according to the time when
they are excited, and the rapidity with which they are grown.
There are numerous species, but the most popular are H. an-
gustifolium, scarlet; H. aurantiacum, orange; H. coronarium,
white ; H. flavescens, yellowish; H. Gardnerianum, yellow ;
and H. speciosum, pale yellow.

HEDYSARUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionacez.} Hardy
herbaceous plants, including annuals, biennials, and peren-
nials. Common garden soil. Increased by seeds or division.

HEIMIA. [Lythracee.] Greenhouse deciduous shrubs.
Soil, sandy loam and peat. Increased freely by cuttings in
heat.

HELIANTHEMUM. Son Rosz. ([Cistacee.] Small
evergreen shrubs, immediately related to Cistus, mostly trail-
ing plants, and among the prettiest ornaments of rockwork.
The genus comprises more than a hundred species and
varieties, some requiring a frame, but the greater part nearly
hardy: a few are hardy annuals. They grow chiefly upon
rocks and rockwork, and therefore require hard dry ground.
The poorer the loam in which the plants are grown the better:
a mixture of sandy loam with a little peat is suitable. They
are best on rockwork and on banks. The annuals may be
sown thinly on the ground of the common border. The
shrubby kinds are raised from cuttings, and want but little

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 137

care except so far as potting the tender and planting out the
hardier sorts. A few plants should be kept in small pots for
facility of preservation during the winter, when the exposed
plants are sometimes killed. The few that are necessary in
a garden should be selected while in bloom, for there is little
difference between many of them. The majority have yellow
flowers; a few are white or red, or some shade between red
and yellow.

HELIANTHUS. Sunrtower. [Composite.] There are
two kinds of Sunflower worth cultivating; the double-flowered
perennial kind (H. multiflorus), which grows in common soil,
and is increased by division ; and the annual (H. annuus), of
which there are tall, dwarf, and what are called single and
double-flowered varieties. This almost discarded but ancient
ornament of British gardens ought to be cultivated for its
usefulness, if not for its beauty; but even in respect of this
latter quality there are many occupants of large borders far
less entitled to notice. The seed of the Sunflower is full of
vegetable oil, which may be pressed out with less labour than
that from rape or linseed; andthe oil-cake is fattening to
cattle. The seed without crushing is highly nourishing to
poultry, and is therefore of service in the farmyard. The
plant is very prolific, and probably yields more seed than
anything that would occupy the same room. It is, however,
desirable that the seed should ripen eurly, for which object
the young plants should be raised on a gentle hotbed in April,
where they should be allowed to grow, with plenty of light
and air, to prevent their drawing up, until the middle of May,
when they may be planted in the borders, or, if for their pro-
duce, three feet apart in rows four feet from each other.
When they show bloom let all but the first half-dozen flower-—
heads be picked off, and that half-dozen will be the finer for it.
Let the heads of seeds be gathered as soon as the outer seeds
on the head turn black, and lay the heads in a box or on a
cloth to catch the loose seeds. It is necessary to scare away
birds when the seeds begin to ripen.

HELICHRYSUM. [Composite.] A handsome race of
plants, producing * everlasting ” flowers. The group formerly
so named is now divided into genera, to which the names
Aphelexis, Astelma, and Phenocoma are applied. The species

138 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

of these genera, with many of the Helichrysums, are green-
house shrubs, mostly very showy plants. The compost
for them should be three parts turfy peat to one of sandy
loam, and an eighth part of sand added. They strike from
cuttings in sand under a bell-glass: the cuttings, when rooted,
may be potted in three-inch pots, and be grown in the
greenhouse near the glass. They should be topped as soon as
they begin to grow, to induce them to form a shrubby habit,
with numerous lateral shoots. While small they should
not be allowed to flower, but the buds should be taken off as
soon as they are discerned: this encourages free growth,
and prevents loss of time, for the plants make little or no
growth while the flowers are swelling and opening. All the
shoots that are becoming too vigorous must be topped, so as
to check informality or awkwardness of shape. H. arenarium
is a showy dwarf hardy perennial, propagated readily by
division, growing freely in any sandy soil, and bearing in
August a profusion of yellow blossoms, which, though small,
grow in good-sized heads, and are preserved to a considerable
extent, dyed of various colours, and sold in the shops as a
component of ‘winter nosegays.” The common annual
“Everlasting” and some allied plants, though introduced
from New Holland, are treated exactly as half-hardy annuals,
being sown in the open borders in March and April, or for
earlier blooming on a geutle hotbed in March, and trans-
planted in May. They come into bloom at an advanced
period of the summer, and continue a succession of blossoms
until destroyed by the frosts of autumn.

HELIOPHILA. [Crucifere.] Hardy annuals, some of
which are pretty flower-border plants. They should be sown
in the open ground in March and April, or for earher
blooming in March, under cover, and afterwards planted out.
Rather sandy soil is preferable, and they like exposure to
sun. ‘Two or three are delicate greenhouse shrubs, but not
of much importance.

HELIOTROPIUM. MHettotrors or Turnsoxe. [Ehre-
tiacew.| A genus comprising stove and hardy annuals, and
stove and greenhouse shrubs, of little importance except the
Peruvian Heliotrope (H. Peruvianum), which is a great
favourite in flower gardens, and bears grateful-smelling blos-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 139

soms, prized chiefly for their perfume, which is compared to
that of “cherry pie.” This species is, strictly speaking, a
greenhouse low shrub. The young shoots will strike freely
in light sandy soil during summer under a frame or hand-
glass, but more readily with slight warmth. When well
rooted they may be potted into small pots, and placed in a
frame or in the greenhouse, where they may grow till their
roots show through the bottom of the pots, and then be
changed into those of the next larger size. Top the leading
shoots to produce laterals. They must be wintered in a
dryish part of the greenhouse. If intended for beds and
borders they must be hardened in cold frames in the spring,
and planted out in June after danger from frost is over. It
is sometimes preferred to keep an old plant or two through
the winter, and to put them into a hotbed or warm house
about February, when they will produce plenty of young
shoots, the tops of which are quickly struck in a hotbed, and
if potted and gradually hardened make good plants for
turning out in June. Where there are no such conveniences
the plants may be kept in a warm part of the greenhouse in
spring, and the young shoots taken off as soon as they grow.
planted in sandy soil, and covered by a glass. When rooted
they may be potted or at once planted out, according to tho

season, There are now several varieties of the Peruvian
Heliotrope, the principal variations consisting in the larger
size of the blossoms and the deepening of the colour, which,
in the variety Voltaireanum, as well as in Salter’s Gem, is of
a deep purple. H. corymboswm is the only other kind worth
growing. Both for flower-beds and for bouquets the Helio-
trope may be considered indispensable. Seed of the-annual
kinds may be sown in March in a frame or greenhouse:
the plants, when large enough, may be pricked out three or
four in a pot, and as they advance potted singly, or planted
out where they are to remain. There are now many garden
varieties.

HELLEBORUS. HeEttepore. [Ranunculacee.] Showy
hardy perennials of easy culture, growing in good garden
soil and a rather shady situation, and increasing by dividing
the roots in the dormant season. It is a desirable family.
HI. niger, called the Christmas Rose, is a favourite dwarf

140 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

species, which flowers all through the winter. H. Olympicus
and some others of the Oriental species are the better for
slight protection, their early blossoms being otherwise dis-
figured. These and H. atrorubens, purple, March and April,
are the most desirable.

HELONIAS. [Melanthacexe.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials. Soil, peat, and a damp shady situation. Increased
by division.

HEMEROCALLIS. Day Luv. [Liliacee.] Hardy
coarse-looking, but gay herbaceous perennials, possessing the
property of producing blooms that last but one day: hence
the trivial name. They are of the simplest culture, growing
readily in ordinary garden soil, and are propagated by div iding
the plants. Flowers are pretty freely produced from June to
August. They are much alike on their claims for a place in
the gardens.

HEMIANDRA. [Labiate.] Pretty greenhouse — ever-
green sub-shrubs, allied to Prostanthera. Soil, peat and loam,
with a sixth part of sand or charcoal. Increased by cuttings
in sand under a bell-glass im heat. H. emarginata, flowers
white and pink, in May. H. pungens, flowers rosy purple,
in June.

HEMIGENIA. {[Labiate.] Greenhouse evergreen sub-
shrub. Soil, sandy peat and loam. Increased by cuttings in
sand under a bell-glass in heat. H. purpurea, flowers purple.

HEMP. See Cannasts.

HENBANE. See Hyosoyamus.,

HENFREYA. {Acanthacee.| H. scandens is a pretty
stove evergreen climbing plant, bearing panicles of large
white funnel-shaped flowers. It requires a compost of turfy
loam and peat in equal proportions, mixed with sand to
make it porous, and should be repotted in the beginning of
summer, after it has ceased to produce its flowers. Propa-
gated by cuttings planted in sand, and placed in a close
warm frame.

HEPATICA. ([Ranunculacee.| Pretty dwarf hardy
herbaceous perennials. The common Hepatica (1. triloba) is
one of the earliest of the spring flowers. These plants require
a well-drained border (sandy loam, with one-third peat, is

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 14]

preferable), and never succeed well in soil where there is
stagnant moisture. They deserve a place in every choice
garden for their dwarf habit, bright colours, and early flowers.
The plants increase by side-shoots, which spread into a
moderate-sized tuft in a season or two if undisturbed. They
are increased in number by separating these tufts, so that
each heart or side-shoot with roots attached may become a
plant. This is done in spring, the roots being separated into
pieces not too small; for, although the smallest bit would in
time spread, they would be two or three seasons before they
were fit to plant in the borders. These should be planted in
nursery-beds, about six inches apart, and after one season’s
growth they will be large enough to plant out where they are
to remain. The beds must be kept clear from weeds, and
the earth stirred upon the surface between the plants in
February. These plants are rather impatient of extreme
drought. The double varieties are superior to the single,
and therefore are mostly cultivated; but the double white is
very scarce, if not altogether lost, and therefore the single
white is grown. They are all pretty, double and single.

HERACLEUM. Cow Parsnip. [Umbellifere.] Large
coarse-growing hardy perennials and biennials, bearing large
umbels of white flowers. The larger sorts are admirable
plants for rough borders, rockwork on a large scale, wilder-
ness scenery, or wherever a bold, striking, picturesque effect is
required. Soil, deep rich loam. Increased abundantly by
seeds. H. giganteum, H. Wilhelmsia, and H. Persicum are
some of the best for these purposes.

HERBERTIA. [Iridacee.] Pretty little greenhouse or
half-hardy bulbs. Soil, sandy loam, with one-fourth peat.
Increased by offsets or by seeds. Like other half-hardy
bulbs, they may be cultivated in well-drained borders if
planted six or eight inches deep.

HERMANNIA. [Byttneriacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, closely related to Mahernia. Soil, fibry loam and
peat in equal parts, with a liberal addition of sand. Being
free-growing plants, they require to be frequently renewed
from cuttings, which will root if planted in sandy soil under
a bell-glass in spring.

HERON’S BILL. See Eroprum.

142 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

HESPERANTHA. Eventne Frower. [Iridacex.] Pretty
greenhouse or half-hardy bulbs, allied to Ixia, and requiring
the same mode of management. Soil, sandy loam and peat.
Increased by offsets.

HESPERIS. Rocxer. ([Crucifere.] A genus of hardy
plants, annual, biennial, and perennial. Some of the varieties
of the common Rocket (H. matronalis), especially the double
white and double purple, are very great favourites in the
flower gardens. They are rather difficult to manage, especially
in old gardens or in confined situations, for they love fresh
soil and an open situation. A light rich loam is the best
for them; but if an artificial compost has to be made up, as
it should be if they are required in perfection, a third part
of sandy peat mixed with two-thirds of mellow loam will
grow them very well. Next to soil, the great secret of success
is not to let them stand too long in a place, for under such
circumstances they are sure to dwindle. They ought to be
taken up and divided every second year, soon after they have
done flowering—that is, early in autumn—and replanted in
fresh soil. To have a display of healthy plants every year
they should be divided into two sets. Those plants respectively
which have bloomed in their second year, if taken up in each
successive autumn and divided, will furnish a constant supply
of young plants, the flowering of which should be prevented
in the following summer, and they will then bloom vigorously
in the second year from their transplantation. One reason
why this constant transplantation is necessary is that the
plant, in its original state, is naturally a biennial, perishing
after it has produced flowers. The other species, most of
which are also biennials, are unimportant compared with the
varieties above alluded to.

HESPEROSCORDUM. [Liliacee.] Half-hardy bulbs.
Soil, sandy loam.. Increased by offsets or by seeds. H.
hyacinthinum, flowers blue, in July. H. lacteum, flowers
white, in July.

HEUCHERA. [Saxifragacese.] Hardy herbaceous per-
ennials, with simple-looking flowers. Common soil. Increased
by division ;

HIBBERTIA. [Dilleniacee.] Ornamental greenhouse
evergreen shrubs. They are raised by cuttings planted

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 143

under a bell-glass in sand, and grow in a mixture of equal
parts sandy loam and peat. H. Cunninyhaini, flowers yellow,
in June. H. grossulariefolia, trailing, flowers yellow, in
March. H. perfoliata, flowers yellow, in May. H. volubilis,
twining, flowers yellow, in March.

HIBISCUS. [Malvacez.] A very extensive genus, com-
prising hardy and stove aunuals, hardy herbaceous perennials,
and hardy greenhouse and stove shrubs. The hardy annuals
may be sown in the borders in March and April. ‘They will
grow well in good garden soil, and merely require to be
thinned properly after they are up: the plants taken up to
thin the others may be planted out carefully in other places.
The hardy shrubs are splendid objects towards the end of
summer when planted in dryish soils: they are increased by
layers. The hardy perennials require a peaty soil, and a
moist sheltered situation. The stove and greenhouse shrubs
include some of the most gorgeous of plants: they grow
freely in a compost of loam, peat, and sand, and are pro-
pagated by cuttings planted in sand, and put in a hotbed.

HINDSIA. [Cinchonacee.] Showy evergreen sub-shrubs,
requiring a stove temperature. Soil, peat, with one-third
loam and one-sixth sand. Propagated by cuttings in sand in
a hotbed. The principal ones are H. lonyiflora and H.
violacea.

HIPPEASTRUM. Kvyicur's Star. [Amaryllidacee.]
Splendid stove and greenhouse bulbs, but they all grow well
~in a stove; and if, when they have opened their flowers, they
are gently reduced to the greenhouse temperature, they last
in flower some time. ‘They all require to rest after they have
perfected their blooms. To accomplish this some turn out
the bulbs, and let them dry on a shelf. If, however, water is
withheld from the time the bloom declines, and the pots are
placed in a dry situation, it is just as well as taking them out of
their pots. When they begin to grow in spring, which they
will do without watering, the ball of earth should be turned
out whole and placed in a larger pot, and then water must
be supplied, and the plant set to work near the light in the
warmest part of the house. If the bulbs are taken out of the
soil, which will be required once in two or three years, let the
leaves all turn yellow before they are disturbed; then they

144 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

may be shaken out so as to get rid of all the soil, and the roots
allowed to dry; but except once in two or three years, in
order to remove offsets, and to limit the size of the pots, this
violence need not be done; indeed, they will always bloom
better the second year after replanting than the first. By
crossing hundreds of really beautiful varieties, and thousands
good for nothing, have been raised. Those who desire to
cultivate them should see collections in bloom, and select
from them only; for, although twenty handsome hybrids
might be named, there are inferior ones to be met with under
the same titles. The seed may be sown in pots in the stove
or hotbed, and the young plants pricked out an inch apart as
soon as possible, unless they have been sown at this distance,
and then kept growing the first season. After this change
the pots for larger every year till they flower. The species
.and varieties are perpetuated by offsets from the bulbs. The
species are few; but from the circumstance of their having
been taken in hand by florists, and crossed in every con-
ceivable direction, the seedling varieties are in proportion to
the originals as fifty to one, and the cross-bred varieties are
far more beautiful than the distinct species. .

HIPPOCREPIS. MHorsresHor Veres. [Leguminosa,
§ Papilionacee.} A genus containing two or three pretty
trailing plants suitable for rockwork. Light sandy soil.
Increased by seeds or by division.

HOITZIA. [Polemoniacee.] Pretty greenhouse sub-
shrubs. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Increased by cuttings
in sand in a hotbed. 4H. coccinea, scarlet; H. c@rulea, blue ;
H., glandulosa, pale red, are the best.

HOLBOLLIA. [Lardizabalacee.] Greenhouse fragrant-
flowered climbers. Soil, peat, loam, and sand. Propagated
by cuttings in sandy soilin a hotbed. Also called Stawntonia.

HOLLY. See Izex.

HOLLYHOCK. See Atru#a.

HONEY FLOWER. See Me tianruvs.

HONEYSUCKLE. See Lonicera.

HONEYWORT. See CrErintHE.

HOOP-PETTICOAT. See Corsporarta.

HORMINUM. ([Labiate.| <A showy dwarf hardy herba-
ceous perennial, requiring a dry situation and a sandy soil,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 145

or else to be kept in a dry cold frame in winter. Increased
by seeds or division.

HORSESHOE VETCH. See Hrppocrepris.

HORSETAIL. See Equisrrum.

HOTEIA. ([Saxifragacew?] A very handsome hardy
perennial, formerly called Spirea Japonica. Soil, sandy loam
and peat. Increased by division. H. barbata is the only one

rown.

HOUND'S TONGUE. See Cyrnocrossvum.

HOUSELEEK. See SEmprRvVIvUM.

HOUSTONIA. [Cinchonacee.] Pretty little tufted per-
ennial herbs, associating with alpines. Soil, a sandy mixture
of three parts peat to one of loam. Increased by division.

HOVEA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacez.| Beautiful green-
house evergreen shrubs. ‘Lhe flowers are of the shape of
those of the garden pea, which form is called butterfly-shaped ;
and hence papilionaceous, from papilio, a name given to
butterflies. Hoveas require a light fresh soil, but not rich:
three-fourths of fibry peat to one-fourth of light loam, adding
an eighth part of sand and as much of small charcoal, will
suit them. The drainage must be good: one-third of the
depth of the pots should be filled with crocks. They should
be watered with great caution, so as to avoid either wetness
or drought, and with clean rain water if possible. The best
plants are raised from seed, which is often perfected; but
euttings, which should be the tips of unblooming shoots two
inches long, will strike in sand. The cuttings are prepared
by cutting off the leaves from the lower half without bruising
the bark, and cutting the lower end clean through close
under where a leaf had grown; they must be planted in pots
prepared by being filled one-third with broken crocks, on this
half an inch of rough turfy lumps of soil, then to within an
inch of the top with sandy peat, pressed down very firm and
even; the remainder is then to be filled up with clean silver
sand, also pressed quite firm, and the whole must be watered
thoroughly with a fine-rosed pot. In an hour or two, when
it has drained, it will be fit for the cuttings. Insert them by
making a little hole with a smooth-pointed stick just to the
bottom of the sand; put in the cutting so that it rests on the
bottom, and press in the sand with the end of the stick to

Lb

146 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

make it quite firm about the cutting. They may be put one
or two inches apart, according to the size of their foliage, and
when all planted should be gently watered to settle the soil.
As soon as they have dried a little they must be covered with
a bell-glass. The pots may be set in a greenhouse, and after
a week or two a slight bottom heat would facilitate the
striking. The glass should be taken off daily, and wiped dry
inside: at the same time the soil must never get dry. During
the whole time they must be shaded by putting a paper over
the sunny side of the glass. When they have begun to
srow the glass may be left off an hour every day; and as
soon as the roots are well formed they must be potted into
three-inch pots, keeping them at the same depth they were
in the cutting-pot—on no account deeper. Keep them close
for a week or two, after which they may be placed near the
glass in the greenhouse, and merely protected from the
scorching mid-day sun, and watered daily, or so that the roots
are never parched. The tops may be pinched out as soon as
they are fairly established, and this will encourage lateral
shoots. As soon as the pots fill with roots change “them for
a size larger, using the same kind of sandy peat compost,
and taking care not to bruise the fibres which are exposed
outside the ball of earth. They may be allowed as much air
as possible in mild weather, and when any of the lateral
shoots are growing too vigorously let them be topped. In
this way the plants may be grown from pot to pot until they
form ultimately handsome large plants. Those who are
anxious to form large specimens in a short time will pick off
the buds of flowers while the plants are small; but in
ordinary cases it is quite as well to let them bloom in season,
and take their natural chance. When the flowers decay
remove them, except when increase is wanted, because the
formation of seed-pods would retard growth and lessen their
vigour. To raise the seed sow it in pans or wide-mouthed
pots, placed in the greenhouse. As soon as the plants are up
they must be kept clear of weeds and occasionally watered
until they are large enough to be pricked out in other pots an
inch and a half apart, where they may grow till they are
large enough to be potted singly, after which they must be
treated exactly like cuttings. The best are H. Celsii, blue;

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 147

H. elliptica, purple; H. ilicifolia, purple blue; H. linearis,
H. longifolia, purple; H. pungens, blue; H. splendens, blue ;
but two or three are as many as one would care for, and
H. ilicifolia is the best of all.

HOYA. ([Asclepiadacee.| A genus of showy plants,
mostly climbers, and mostly requiring stove heat. The popular
H. carnosa may, however, be grown in a greenhouse, or, in-
deed, in a window, although it also thrives well in a stronger
heat. This, an extensively climbing shrub, has umbels of
flowers of a peculiar waxy appearance, whitish, with rose
colour at the centre, where hangs a drop of limpid honey. We
have seen this: plant thriving admirably in a Wardian case,
placed in a parlour window having a sunny aspect. It is
reared by cuttings, which root freely planted in sandy soil,
and not too much watered. When rooted they require a
compost of loam and peat, and a tolerably large pot; but it
must be thoroughly drained, and some such porous material
as broken brick or broken charcoal should be largely inter-
mixed with the soil. When the roots get firm hold of a
considerable body of such an open compost the branches
srow away rapidly, and in a healthy manner, and require only
to be fastened in such positions as they are to occupy. Blos-
soms are developed in due course; and here it should be
stated that the old bloom-stalks should not be removed, for
these put out blossoms year after year—a very singular fact
in the economy of this plant. It does not require very large
supplies of water, especially in a dormant state. Hoya bella,
H. imperialis, and H. Cunninghamie are most desirable.

HUERNIA. [Asclepiadaceze.} Greenhouse succulent
evergreen, related to Stapelia. Soil, sandy loam, with a little
peat. Increased by cuttings, which should be dried a little
before being planted.

HUGELIA. [Polemoniacee.} Dwarf hardy annuals,
closely related to Gilia, and requiring the same treatment.
Light garden soil. ‘They should be sown in the open borders
in March and in April.

HUMEA. [Composite.] H. elegans is a very elegant
greenhouse biennial. It is the graceful form of growth which
it assumes that renders it a favourite. The whole plant is
not much unlike a pyramidal fountain ; the branches shoot out

148 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

equally all round, the blossom hangs down, and there is so
much grace in the form of the plant, that, without any
approach to brightness or even clearness of colour, it is a
striking object. The seeds must be raised in heat in the
spring, and the young plants treated all the summer as green-
house plants, that is, potted off when they are large enough
into small pots, shifted to larger ones as they fill the pots
with roots, and kept in the greenhouse or in a cold frame,
having, however, plenty of air. In the following June some
may be planted out in a warm situation in the borders, where
they will grow up from six to ten feet high. Others may be
potted in twelve-inch pots, with loam and dung in equal parts
for the compost. Those in pots must be regularly supplied
with water, because they will grow fast and take a good deal ;
indeed, if weak manure water is given twice a week when
they have nearly reached their full growth they will be
benefited. The plant looks richer when not overgrown.
HYACINTHUS. MHyacrinrw. {Liliacee.] Beautiful and
well-known bulbs. H. amethystinus is a charming little hardy
species, which should be planted in sandy loam. The cul-
tivated varieties of Hyacinth are the progeny of H. orientalis.
Immense numbers of the bulbs of these odoriferous and showy
plants are annually imported from Holland, and, after having
been once bloomed, are thrown by or planted in common
borders to degenerate from neglect. To grow the Hyacinth
properly the soil should be composed of one-half turfy loam
of mellow texture, one-fourth old cowdung, or cowdung
mixed with leaf-mould, and one-fourth clean but coarse sand.
For beds, loam, sand, and dung, rotted to mould, in equal
quantities, may be used. In soil such as this the offsets of
the Hyacinth will grow, till in two or three seasons they come
to full size and perfection, and bulbs thus grown annually
will not degenerate. They must be planted in October, and
be taken up when the leaves die down. The beds must be
protected against severe frosts and heavy rains in winter, and
against all that may damage the foliage inspring. Hyacinths
flower beautifully in pots as well as in glasses for the green-
house and window. Deep pots, five inches in diameter, should
be used, the soil made very firm beneath the bulb, and the
top of the bulb about level with the surface. The medium-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 149

sized, plump-looking, full-crowned bulbs should be chosen
and potted early in October. After potting plunge the pots
in old tan or coal ashes so as to cover them two or three
inches. They are to remain until removed in succession to
a warm room or house to forward the blooms. When grown
in glasses of water the dark-coloured glasses should be pre-
ferred, and the more opaque the better. November is soon
enough to put the bulbs in the glasses. First keep them a
week or so in damp sand or moss, then put them in the
hollowed top of the glass, and at first allow the water but just
to touch their base. Rain water, quite clean, should be used,
and this changed once a week. The glasses should be set in
the dark until the roots have grown an inch or two in length.
When the flower-stem is advancing two drops of spirits of
hartshorn may be put into the water each time it is changed
with advantage. Tye’s Hyacinth-glasses are the best, and
these are provided with an elegant support for the stem.
Bulbs grown in water should be put in the ground directly
their flowers have decayed, for they derive considerable
strength from it, and, besides that, perfect their offsets if they
have any. Hyacinths will grow well in wet sand, and when
it is covered with moss the plants look very pretty.
HYDRANGEA. [Saxifragacee.] Hardy or half-hardy
deciduous shrubs, most of them showy plants. HZ. hortensis,
the most popular of this family, has been long familiar as one
of the commonest of market plants. Grown in the ordinary
way it is very showy, but with pains it is to be made a very
noble object. There are two very different ways of growing
it—the one to form a shrubby plant, the other a single stem
and a large flower-head. The latter is the favourite mode of
growing it for show, the aim being to produce’as large a head
as possible. For this purpose take cuttings in July of the
strongest shoots, and plant them in sandy soil under a hand
glass: when rooted pot them in five-inch pots, in a compost
of one-third loam, one-third dung, and one-third peat, well
mixed together, and passed through a very coarse sieve. Such
of them as branch out will make pretty little shrubby plants,
whilst those whose growth is confined to a single stem will,
in all probability, form a large flower-head. When the
general set of plants drop their leaves, and indicate by their

150 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

terminal buds the strongest heads, some of the most promising
cuttings may be taken off and struck in slight bottom heat
under a bell-glass, and grown in the stove at once. This will
give a change of season, as well as a difference in growth, but
all will be fine. The plants may be grown into good-sized
bushes by shifting every season into large pots or tubs, which
may be wintered in a cold house free from frost. When
growing as an outdoor shrub the Hydrangea must be pro-
tected in some way, either by matting or covering with litter,
otherwise the points of the shoots will be killed, and with
them the incipient bloom-buds. It is, indeed, sometimes in
severe winters killed down close to the ground; but it will
spring up from the roots, and grow vigorously to make up for
its lost wood. It should have a moist sheltered situation.
The potted plants struck in July should be bloomed in the
greenhouse, but any of them may be turned out into the
borders in May. The Hydrangea, like many other plants,
blooms finer when young than when it has grown three or
four years ; for though the plant is larger, and has more heads
of flowers, the heads and the individual flowers also are
smaller. The plant forces well, and is one of the prettiest
furced flowers in spring. The H. Japonica is very distinct,
and though it does not bloom in such large heads as the other,
its appearance is more picturesque, especially when grown
asa bush. H. Japonica variegata is grown for its foliage.

HYDROPHYLLUM. Warer Lear. [Hydrophyllacee. |
Hardy herbaceous perennials. Soil, peat and loam in moist
situations. Increased by division. HH. Canadensis, white ;
and H. Virginicum, blue, are the principal.

HYMENOCALLIS. [Amaryllidacee.] Fine stove and
greenhouse bulbs, related to Pancratium. Soil, rich sandy
loam. Increased by offsets. There are many species and
varieties.

HYMENOPHYLLUM. Frm Fern. [Polypodiacee.|
Delicately beautiful ferns. They should be fastened to a
damp sandstone or log of wood among fine moss, and kept
quite damp in a close glazed case. Increased by division, but
the less they are disturbed the better. The principal are
H. dilatatum, greenhouse evergreen; H. Tunbridgense and
H. unilaterale, half-hardy evergreen ferns.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. L5l

“HYPERICUM. Sr. Joun’s Wort. [Hypericacese.] A
large genus, containing many hardy species, both perennial
herbs and shrubs, as well as some greenhouse and frame
species. ‘The hardy perennials and shrubs all grow readily
in common sandy soil, and are increased, the former by
division, the latter by layers. H. calycinum is a dwarf hardy
showy species, which grows freely under the shade of trees.
The greenhouse shrubs grow in sandy peat and loam, aud
propagate freely by cuttings. Yellow is almost universally
the colour of the flowers in this genus, although there are
numerous varieties.

HYPOCALYMMA. [Myrtacez.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, peat, loam, and sand. Increased by cuttings
in sand under a bell-glass.

HYPOCALYPTUS. {[Leguminose, § Papilionacez.|
Greenhouse evergreen shrub. Soil, peat, loam, and sand.
Increased by cuttings in sand under a glass.

HYPOXIS. ([Hypoxidacee.| Greenhouse herbaceous
perennials for the most part. They are remarkably showy
plants when the sun is on them, but the flowers close in duil
weather. Soil, sandy peat, with one-third loam. Increased
by division.

IBERIS. Canpyrurtr. [Crucifere.] A genus containing
some well-known hardy annual and a few greenhouse and
hardy sub-shrubs. The annuals are showy and useful border
plants, perfectly hardy, growing in any kind of soil, and
requiring only to be sown where they are to flower. In the
borders they will sometimes shed their seed, and the plants come
up in autumn, and stand the winter if it be not too severe.
Candytuft makes a good clump plant for a geometrical
garden, because it does not grow higher than six or mine
inches, and forms a complete mass of flowers in its season,
being literally covered with bloom. The natural blooming
season may be prolonged by sowing some in pots as early as
February, thinning them as they come up, and nursing them
in the greenhouse or frames till May, when they will be
almost in flower. The seed sown in the borders will be a
month or six weeks later before it flowgrs, and a later sowing
towards the end of May will carry on the succession. ‘The
sub-shrubby evergreen species thrive in light soil, and the

152 GLENNY S HANDBOOK.

hardy ones are very beautiful for rockwork, or, for early
blooming, small groups in the flower garden: they are pro-
pagated freely by cuttings in sandy soil under hand-lights
in a shady place early in the summer. J. coronaria, hardy
annual, white. J. Gibraltarica, frame evergreen sub-shrub,
whitish pink. J. odorata, hardy annual, white. I. sazatilis,
hardy evergreen sub-shrub, white. J. sempervirens, white.
I. umbellata is the common one of purple, red, and white.

ICK PLANT. See MesempryantaHEMum. 1

ILEX. Hotty. [Aquifoliacee.] Evergreen shrubs, valuable
both for beauty of growth and also for variety. Hollies grow
best ina dryish or light sandy loam. Propagated, the common
sorts by seeds or berries, which do not vegetate till the second
year; the others by cuttings of ripened shoots in autumn,
or by budding and grafting, which latter mode is practised
with the beautiful variegated-leaved sorts. For small gardens
the common Holly (I. aquifolium) affords sufficient variety,
including, besides the common form, an evergreen with dark
green spiny leaves ; others in which the leaves are spineless,
saw-edged, and hedgehog prickly; gold and silver blotched,
and gold and silver edged: others are white or yellow-fruited.
Of the variegated forms there are many variations which are
quite constant and distinct. There are some greenhouse and
stove evergreens, which are of little garden interest. I. Para-
guayensis, a stove plant, furnishes the Mate or Paraguay tea.
It is the ornamental foliage chiefly. for which Hollies are~
cultivated. The number of varieties is immense.

ILLICIUM. Antsezep Trex. [Magnoliacee.] Half-hardy
evergreen shrubs, with good foliage and curious flowers.
Soil, peat and loam. Increased by cuttings of young ripened
shoots in sand, or by layers, which take two years to get well
established.

IMPATIENS. Tovcu-ms-not. [Balsaminacee ] Annual
or perennial fleshy-stemmed plants, mostly requiring the
assistance of artificial heat and a moist sheltered climate.
The stove perennial kinds are increased by cuttings in a
brisk hotbed, and grow well in a rich light compost. The
tender annuals should be raised in hot frames from seeds in
February or March, and grown on until summer near the
glass in hot frames or hothouses, and may then be bloomed

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 153

in a greenhouse after its usual occupants are placed out of
doors. Most of these may be raised from cuttings, or made
biennial by removing all flower-buds the first year. Some of
them, if reared in a mild heat, and carefully inured to ex-
posure, will flower out of doors in a moderately sheltered
situation; but they require a moist atmosphere, and moisture
at the roots, as well as a warm exposure. J. glandulifera,
I. macrochila, and I. candida are the best for this treatment:

these have a fine pyramidal habit, and bloom abundantly.
The hardy annuals may be sown in the open border in a
dampish sheltered place, and there they will spring up
abundantly from scattered seeds. See Baxsamina for culture
of the stove annual kinds.

INDIAN CRESS. See Tropaotvum.

INDIAN FIG CACTUS. See Opuntia.

INDIAN PINK. See Drantuvs.

INDIAN SHOT. See Canna.

INDIGOFERA. Inpico. [{Leguminose, § Papilionacez.|
An extensive genus, not of much importance in an ornamental
point of view, and on that account seldom cultivated. It
contains many stove shrubs and annuals, and also some
greenhouse shrubs, two or three of which latter are very
pretty objects. They are increased by cuttings in sand
under bell-glasses, or more easily by seeds when these are
produced. “The young plants should be potted into a com-
post of turfy peat and loam in about equal parts, sand being
added to render it porous: they must not be over-potted,
but shifted only as their roots thicken into pots a size, or at
most two sizes larger. In other respects they require the
usual attention bestowed on greenhouse plants. They are
very liable to the attacks of red spider. J. decora is the
best, but there are many others.

INGA. [Leguminose, § Mimosex.] Very beautiful stove
shrubs. Peat and loam. Propagated by cuttings in sand
under a bell-glass, and placed in a brisk bottom heat ; some-
times by seeds. They require brisk heat in summer while
growing, and afterwards to be kept cooler and drier.

IOCHROMA. [Solanacew.] Greenhouse shrubs, allied
to, and with the habit of, Habrothamnus. Rich sandy loam
and peat. Increased by cuttings of the half-ripened ‘shoots

154 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

in sand in a gentle heat. J. tubulosa, flowers violet purple,
in July.

IONOPSIDUM. Viorer Cress. [Crucifere.] A pretty
dwarf hardy annual, forming a beautiful plant for rockwork
in a shady situation, or an under-growth for a peat border or
for pot culture. It forms close to the soil a compact tuft,
studded with numerous lilac cross-shaped flowers. J. acaule,
flowers lilac.

IPOMASA. [Convolvulacee.] A large genus of showy
Convolvulus-like plants, consisting mostly of climbing species,
of which the greater number require a stove temperature.
The sub-shrubby and perennial kinds are increased by cut-
tings of the short lateral shoots in sandy soil under glasses.
Those which have fleshy roots are more difficult to propagate,
unless cuttings of the young shoots which break from the
crown of the tuber are taken: they require brisk bottom
heat. The tuberous fleshy-rooted sorts. may sometimes be
increased by division, but not readily. Portions of the roots,
however, of the commoner sorts serve as stocks, on which the
rarer and more difficult may be grafted with success by what
is called herbaceous grafting, a good heat and a close frame
being indispensable. ‘The annuals are raised by seeds sown
in a hotbed only in spring. The soil for them should be
turfy peat and sandy loam, with plenty of gritty sand added,
and the roots well drained. ‘The fleshy-rooted kinds require
to be kept moderately dry in winter. Their habit is various.
Some bloom in the axils along the branches; and others, in-
cluding I. Horsfallia, which is one of the best, bloom only at
the end of the shoots. With these latter it is a practice to
top the shoots when five or six feet long, to cause several
laterals to branch out; and the result is that, though the
blossoming is retarded, there are many more flowers pro-
duced in the end. Stopped in this way, and trained over the
roof or the wall of a stove, this is one of the finest of all
creepers. J. ficifolia, stove twining perennial, flowers rosy
purple, in August. J. Horsfallia, stove twining shrub,
flowers crimson, in October. J. pandurata, hardy twining
perennial, flowers white and purple. J. rubro-cerulea, half-
hardy twining annual, flowers blue, fading red. There are
numerous other varieties.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. sd

IPOMOPSIS. [Polemoniaceze.] Splendid-flowered bien-
nials of rather difficult culture. ‘The seeds should be sown
in July thinly in small pots, set into a cold dry frame; the
plants are to be thinned to three or four, and removed to
a shelf in the greenhouse near the glass, where they remain
during winter, being very moderately and carefully watered.
In spring they are shifted into five-inch pots with as little
disturbance to their roots as possible; but one or two of the
plants should be cut away, leaving the strongest. ‘They
require throughout very careful watering, being very im-
patient of moisture. A compost of equal proportions of
sandy peat and sandy loam, mixed with Jumps of charcoal
to keep it open and porous, suits them; and they are mul-
tiplied by seeds only.

IRIS. FrLower-pe-Luce. ([Iridacee.] Beautiful hardy
perennials of very simple culture. They prefer a loamy soil,
somewhat moist, and thrive best when not too frequently
disturbed, as they then spread into good-sized patches, and
produce a greater abundance of flowers. They are propa-
gated without the least difficulty by dividing the plants.
There are one or two bulbous.rooted species—I. wiphium and
I. xiphioides, the latter commonly called English, and the
former Spanish Iris—the varieties of which are extensively
cultivated as florists’ flowers. The varieties of colour among
these bulbous kinds are very great, including white, yellow,
blue, purple, and many indescribable tints. These should be
planted a foot apart in a rich bed of loam, dung, and sand,
and should be removed only once in two years, the trans-
plantation taking place in. September. They increase by
offsets, and their varieties are beyond calculation.

ISMENE. Peruvian Darropin. {Amaryllidacee.] Stove
bulbs. Deep sandy soil. Increased by offsets. ‘The best
way to manage them is to treat them as half-hardy bulbs,
planting them deeply in a warm border in April, taking them
up as soon as frost destroys the leaves, and keeping them
quite dry and from frost during winter.

ISOPLEXIS. [Scrophulariacee.} Shrubby Foxgloves.
They are showy greenhouse evergreen shrubs. Light loamy
compost. Increased by seeds or cuttings of the half-ripened
shoots.

156 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

ISOPOGON. [Proteacexe.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs
from New Holland. Sandy peat, with one-third loam. In-
creased by cuttings in sand under bell-glasses. They are of
slight importance as ornamental plants.

ISOTOMA. [Lobeliacee.] A pretty dwarf blue-flowered
Lobelia-like plant, requiring the shelter of a greenhouse in
winter, but growing in the open air in summer, and _ blossom-
ing through a great part of that period. It grows best in
a dryish sandy loam, and in a warm situation. The plants
should be raised from seeds in July, and kept through the
winter in a dry frame or greenhouse in readiness for planting
out the following May or June. There are many varieties.

ISOTROPIS. {[Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Sandy peat and loam. Propagated
by cuttings in sand under bell-glasses.

IVY. See HEepEra.

IXIA. [Iridacee.}| Very beautiful bulbous plants, with
brilliant flowers. They delight in sandy loam and peat earth
in equal quantities, with a little well- decomposed dung; and
a south border made up of this compost will bloom them in
high perfection. They are’ handsome pot plants; and,
although few flowers so well deserve attention, yet few are so
little known and appreciated. They should be potted in
October, and placed in a frame, where they must be protected
against frost and excess of wet, and from which they may be
removed to the greenhouse as soon as they indicate bloom.
Three or four bulbs are sufficient in a pot, and the plants in
each pot should be confined to one sort. Whether in pots
or in borders they must not be reached by frost, and should
be guarded against wet in winter; nor must they be suffered
to get dry during the season of growth. Ixias are increased
by offsets from the old bulbs, which should be separated at
potting or planting time, or placed in a store pot or bed.
They may also be raised from seeds, which should be sown
very thinly ina pan. After the first year’s growth, and when
the foliage dies, the diminutive bulbs may be transferred to
other pans or pots, and put in an inch and a half apart, or
three or four in a small pot, and in this way continued to be
grown until they flower. The varieties are already nume-
rous.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 157

TXIOLIRION. | [Amaryllidaceze.] Pretty hardy bulbs,
which will grow readily in sandy loam, and are increased by
offsets from the parent bulbs. They also bear seeds, by which
they may be multiplied.

IXORA. [Cinchonacez.] Noble stove evergreen shrubs.
They require a soil of loam and peat earth, and they must be
grown fully exposed to the light. The cuttings root easily in
bottom heat in sand, a layer of an inch in thickness, and
require a bell-glass over them: the sand should rest on a
sandy mixture of loam and peat, into which the roots strike
aud receive nourishment. When well rooted pot them in
three-inch pots, and pinch out the growing heart to make the
plant bushy. As the roots fill the pots the plants must be
removed into others a size larger, and the plants must be
kept in a high stove temperature, with the pots plunged in a
bed affording a brisk warmth to the roots. About two shifts
annually, first to a five-inch pot, then to an eight: a ten-inch
and twelve-inch in succession will then carry on the plants
to a good blooming size. The pots must be well drained, and
good attention afforded as respects water, heat, air, &c., accord-
ing to the routine of stove management. The vigorous shoots
should be topped while the plant is thus in process of forma-
tion, to secure a greater number of branches and the requisite
bushiness of growth; but after this the annual growth must
be allowed to develope itself unchecked, the blooms coming
in heads at the ends of the stronger shoots. After blooming
the plants may be cut into a good shape. They are very
liable, as are all evergreen stove shrubs, to the attacks of
scale insect and mealy bug. ‘The precautionary measures
are to examine frequently to see if there be. any attack of
this sort, and, if there be, wash gently with a shaving-brush
and soap and water, the plants being afterwards syringed to
clear them of the soapsuds: this remedy must, be applied
very often if necessary. The noble trusses of bloom come at
the ends of the shoots, and come large in proportion to the
strength of the shoot; so that the stopping of the main shoots
to produce side ones must be the work of judgment, because
it is possible to keep stopping, and thereby increasing the
number of shoots, until they are too weak to flower well, if at
all. J. alba, flowers white; J. coccinea, scarlet; I. crocata,

158 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

orange red; J. Griffithii, rich saffron vermilion ; 7. Javanica,
orange red.

JACARANDA. ([Bignoniacee.] Fine stove evergreen
trees, remarkable for the elegance of their highly compound
foliage. Soil, peat and loam. Increased by cuttings of half-
ripened shoots in the summer months, planted in sand under
bell-glasses in a brisk heat. J. mimosefolia is pretty.

JACKSONIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.} Pretty
greenhouse evergreen shrubs. Soil, sandy peat, with a third
part light loam. Increased by culture in sand under bell-
glasses.

JACOBALAN LILY. See Sprexetta.

JACQUEMONTIA. [Convolvulacee.] Pretty evergreen
twining plants, requiring a stove or warm greenhouse. Pro-
pagated by cuttings of the lateral shoots planted in sand, and
placed in heat. They grow ina light compost of turfy peat,
loam, and sand, and require training over a considerable
surface to insure the development of blossoms.

JAMBOSA. [Myrtacez.] Stove evergreen shrubs, with
the exception mentioned below. Soil, peat and loam. In-
creased by cuttings m sand under glasses. J. australis,
greenhouse evergreen shrub, flowers white, in May.

JAPAN ALLSPICK. See Curmonantuus.

JAPAN CEDAR. See Crypromenrta.

JASTIONE. Sueep’s Scaptous. [Campanulacee.] Pretty
dwarf herbs, bearing blue flowers collected in heads. The
annuals may be sown in the borders in March, and require
no other care than thinning if the plants come up too thick.
The perennials are increased by seeds or by division, and
require but to be planted in a warm border in sandy soil. J.
montana, hardy annual, flowers pale blue. J. perennis, hardy
perennial, flowers blue.

JASMINUM. Jasmine. [Jasminacee.] Favourite climb-
ing shrubs, many of them evergreen, and nearly all adapted
for trellises, &c. Some require stove heat, others a green-
house, and some are hardy. ‘The latter are of very simple
culture, being propagated by cuttings planted in sandy soil
under hand-glasses, and when established growing freely in
good garden soil. The greenhouse and stove kinds should
be planted in a mixture of equal parts loam and peat, with

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 159

some sand added; and they are increased by cuttings planted
in sandy soil, and placed in a close warm situation, such as a
hotbed or a propagating pit. The flowers are for the most
part deliciously fragrant. There are many sorts known in
gardens, but the half of them require stove heat. ‘The best
are J. affine, white; J. revolutum, yellow; and J. nudiflorum,
yellow and hardy. There are some pretty stove and green-
house varieties.

JEFFERSONIA. [Berberidaceew.] A neat hardy herba-
ceous perennial. Soil, sandy loam. Increased by division
of the plant, which should be done in spring, or by seeds.
J. diphylla, hardy perennial, flowers white, in May.

JONQUIL. See Narcissus.

JUDAS TREE. See Cercis.

JUGLANS. Watnur. {Juglandacee.}| Hardy deciduous
trees, some of which are useful for their fruit, and others
ornamental on account of their habit and fine pinnated
foliage. Deep loamy soil. Increased by seeds, or by budding
or grafting.

JUNIPERUS. Juniper. [Pinacee.] Evergreens, many
of which are remarkably ornamental in habit, forming light,
spreading, more or less pendulous bushes or low trees. The
Junipers prefer a light loamy soil, but are not difficult of
culture in any that is moderately good, and not wet or heavy.
Increased with most facility by seeds, but the rarer kinds may
be propagated by grafting, or by cuttings of the firm young
shoots, planted in sandy soil on a shady border, and covered
by a hand-light.

JURINEA. [Composite.] Hardy herbaceous perennials.
Common soil. Division of the root. J. spectabilis, flowers
purple, in June.

JUSTICIA. ([Acanthacee.] Stove sub-shrubby plants
of easy management. Soil, rich loam and leaf-mould. In-
creased by cuttings in sand in a hotbed; and, being fast
growers, it 1s best to raise young plants annually. The species
of Justicia are now distributed among numerous new geiera,
but for convenience we shall retain them under their old
names, selecting a few of the most desirable. J. carnea,
evergreen, flowers pink. J. nasuta, flowers white. J. nodosa,
pink. J. oblongata, rose pink. .J. speciosa, flowers purple.

160 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

KALMIA. [Ericacex.] Beautiful evergreen shrubs, be-
longing to the group commonly called “ American plants,”
from the majority having been originally obtained from
America. The Kalmias are readily forced into early blossom
by the stimulus of artificial heat. The proper soil for them
is sandy peat earth; it is, in fact, the usual’ and the best
practice to plant these Kalmias, together with Rhododendrons,
Azaleas, &c., in separate beds or patches prepared with peat
soil. ‘They are usually increased by layers made at the end
of summer, but may also be raised from seeds, in which case
the seeds require to be sown in shallow pans of sandy peat,
and kept close in a frame: the seedlings are transplanted to
other pans as soon as large enough to be handled, and again
kept close for a time until established, when they are gradu-
ally inured to exposure. K. glauca, flowers red. K. hirsuta,
flowers red. K. latifolia, the best of all, flowers pink.

KALOSANTHES. [Crassulacee.] Beautiful succulent
plants, formerly known as Crassulas. They are propagated
hy short cuttings of the points of the free-growing shoots
taken about the end of August, and which, after being cut
through at a joint, and a few of the lower leaves taken off,
should be laid out for a day or two to dry a little, and then
planted singly in small pots in sandy soil, and set on a shelf
in the greenhouse, where they should have just water enough
given to keep the soil moistened—no more. When they are
rooted the tops should be taken off to cause other shoots to
be produced, and these must also be topped when a few
inches long for a similar purpose, the topping being repeated
as the plants grow until the requisite size and bushiness are
secured. When by this means a dwarf thickly-branched
plant is produced it may be let grow to flower. The pots
should be changed for larger ones as often as they get filled
with roots; and a rich, but very free, open, loamy soil em-
ployed, such. as a mixture of mellow loam with coarse sand
and leaf-mould, or quite decayed dung. In winter they
should be kept nearly dry in a cool airy greenhouse or pit,
beyond the reach of frost. Old plants after blooming should
be cut down to a skeleton, when they will produce young
shoots for flowering the following year. In hot dryish situa-
tions these plants make a very showy bed in the flower

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 161

garden: for this purpose they should be wintered in dry
cold frames, and planted out about the end of May. ‘There
are several garden varieties of K. coccinea ; that called miniata,
with scarlet flowers, is the best.

KAULFUSSIA. [Composite.] A neat hardy annual,
forming a‘pretty dwarf plant for the margins of beds. The
seed should be sown in April in finely-pulverised soil; or,
to obtain earlier blooms, it may be sown in pots in March,
and reared in a frame, ready to be planted out in good time
in May, almost or quite in bloom. For later flowering plants
it should be sown again about the end of July. It will grow
in any good garden soil.

KENNEDYA. [{Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Green-
house evergreen twiners of considerable beauty. They may
be grown and bloomed in pots; and, as they climb to a con-
siderable height, they are suitable for rafters and pillars in
conservatories. ‘They grow best in a compost of half sandy
loam, a fourth dung, and a fourth turfy peat, with sand,
about a fifth of the whole, added. Small plants just rooted
may be potted in this compost in three-inch pots, and grown
in the greenhouse until they are full of roots, and then
changed to larger pots until the size is sufficient to carry a
proper trellis. A good deal of taste may be exercised in the
choice of a support. Climbing plants are often made very
unnatural and frightful by the mauner of training. In a
general way, we may observe that great round shields are
like nothing in nature; pyramids are bad, because the plants
want more space to cover instead of less as they advance
upwards ; a straight pillar is tolerable, for we see Ivy climb-
_ing a stone pillar; and climbing plants of any sort will cling
toacolumn. Young plants raised in spring, and grown well
all the summer, will bloom abundantly the next spring. They
seed freely, and may be grown from seeds without difficulty.
Sow in pans or boxes, and put them in a hotbed or propa-
gating house ; and when they are up, and large enough to be
removed, prick them out three or four together in a three-
inch pot. When they have grown a couple of months or so
let them have a pot each, and then grow them on the same
as other plants. To raise them from cuttiugs select young
shoots, and plant them im sand under a beil-glass: when

M

162 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

they begin to grow pot them in three-inch pots separately,
to be treated as already directed. The species of Harden-
bergia, Physolobium, and Zichya were formerly included
under Kennedya. K. inophylla, flowers scarlet. K. eximia,
flowers scarlet. K. Marryatte, scarlet. K. nigricans, dark.
K. prostrata, scarlet. K. rubicunda, red.

KERRIA. [Rosacee.] Hardy deciduous shrubs, with
green stems and yellow flowers, often seen against walls and
fences in old gardens. It is a free-growing plant, adapted
for such situations, growing best im light soils. Readily in-
creased by suckers, or by cuttings under a hand-light. The
double-flowered variety is the most ornamental.

KNIGHTIA. [Proteacer.] A greenhouse evergreen
tree, allied to Grevillea. Soil, peat, with one-fourth sandy
loam. Propagated by cuttings of the ripe shoots in sand
under bell-glasses. | P

KNIGHT’S STAR. See Hrppeastrum.

KOELREUTERIA. [Sapindacee.] A small hardy
deciduous tree, with elegant pinnate foliage, and upright
panicles of yellow blossoms. It is suitable for a pleasure-
ground or shrubbery. Will grow in ordinary garden soil,
and is increased either by seeds or by cuttings of the roots
or branches.

KONIGA. [Crucifere.] A simple, but useful dwarf
hardy annual. The seeds may be sown in spring in the
borders where the plants are to bloom. The flowers have
a rather peculiar, strong, but not disagreeable scent, re-
sembling that of honey. . maritima is the principal one.

LABICHAA. [Leguminose, § Cesalpiniee.| Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Soil, peat and loam. Propagated
by cuttings of the half-ripened shoots in sand under bell-
glasses. LL. bipunctata and L. diversifolia flower yellow, in
April.

LABRADOR TEA. See Lepvum.

LABURNUM. See Cyrisvs.

LACHENALIA. [Liliaceee.] Ornamental bulbous plants,
requiring greenhouse culture. The bulbs should be potted
about August or September into moderate-sized pots, two or
three in each, and they may be kept on a shelf in the green-
house, with occasional moderate waterings, until they come

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 165

into a blooming state. They flourish in a compost of half
peat and half loam, with sand added, and used in rather a
rough state, the pots being well drained. During their
growth they ought not to get at all parched, though, especially
in the earlier stages, they suffer injury from any excess of
water. When in bloom they are among the prettiest orna-
ments of the greenhouse, with their upright spikes of drooping
gaily-coloured tubes. They increase by offsets from the
bulbs. Lachenalias may be cultivated in a frame, moderately
protected against frost in severe weather. There are many
species, but few at present in cultivation.

LACHN#A. ([Thymelacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, sandy peat, with one-fourth loam. Propagated
by cuttings.

LADY FERN. See Aruyrivum.

LADY'S MANTLE. See AtcHEeMILLa.

LADY’S SLIPPER. See Cypripepium.

LADY’S SMOCK. See Carpamine.

LAGENARIA. Borrte Gourp. [{Cucurbitacee.] Annual
trailing plants, requiring to be raised in heat in the spring,
and hardened off previously to their being planted out about
the end of May in sheltered places, such as against walls
and palings, or on a raised bed in a warm corner of the
garden. Rich light soil. Increased by seeds. The curious
bottle-shaped fruits are the objects for which they are cul-
tivated. |

LAGERSTRGIMIA. [Lythracee.} A genus of hand-
some shrubs, containing some greenhouse species. Soil, peat
and loam. Propagated by cuttings of the small half-ripened
lateral shoots in sand, under bell-glasses, in heat. L. Indica,
stove evergreen shrub, flowers white or rose-coloured. L.
speciosa, stove evergreen shrub, flowers rose-coloured.

LALAGE. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Handsome
greenhouse evergreen shrubs, allied to Platylobium. They
should be planted in sandy peat soil, with a fourth of fibrous
loam, and are increased by cuttings of the half-ripened
young shoots in sand under bell-glasses. L. hoveefolia,
flowers yellow and orange. L. ornata, flowers yellow and

urple.

LAMBERTIA. [Proteacee.] Greenlrouse evergreen

164 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

shrubs. Soil, sandy loam and fibry peat. Propagated by
cuttings of the ripe shoots in sand under bell-glasses. LL. for-
mosa, with red flowers in July, is the handsomest.

LAMB’S LETTUCE. See VaLerraneLia.

LAMIUM. [Lamiaceew.] Hardy plants, of which some
of the dwarf perennial kind varieties, and L. maculatum,
with variegated foliage and white or red blossoms, are
pretty subjects for rockwork. Common soil. Increased by
division.

LANTANA. [Verbenaceze.] Stove shrubs, many of the
more showy of which, however, may be considered as green-
house plants if they can be started in spring in a frame or
warmer house. The larger species should be kept rather
dry in winter, when they will be induced to rest, and will
lose their foliage; but if they are excited at that season they
continue growing and remain evergreen. In spring, about
February, they are to be pruned close back, and started to
grow in a stove or warm pit. They are free growers, and
require to be shifted into larger pots as their roots become
numerous. They should have a free rich loamy soil, con-
sisting of loam, peat, and leaf-mould, equal parts, with sand
added if necessary. The young shoots in spring should be
freely stopped to produce bushy growth. L. Sellowiana
should have three parts sandy peat earth in the compost, and,
though rested by comparative dryness and coolness in winter,
ought not to be dried so much as the larger sorts. They do
not require the temperature of the stove—that of an inter-
mediate house suits them best. In warm and dry situations,
where the soil is rather sandy, L. Sellowiana forms good
beds in the flower garden, looking like a purple Verbena;
and some of the larger orange-flowered species succeed
under the same treatment in favourable summers. Cuttings
root very readily in sand, planted in the usual way, and set
in a hotbed. Young plants should be raised from cuttings
during summer, to be shifted on for flowering the follow-
ing spring.

LAPAGERIA. [Philesiacew.] A beautiful half-hardy
twining perennial. The soil should be three parts peat earth
to one of loam, and the situation should be cool, moist, and
shady. The climate of a temperate fern house would be suit-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 165

able for it. Increased sparingly by cuttings. L. rosea, flowers
rose colour, in November.

LAPEYROUSIA. [Iridacee.] Beautiful bulbous plants,
related to Ixia and Gladiolus, and sometimes called Peyrousia
and Meristostigma. Soil, peat and loam. Increased by
offsets.

LARDIZABALA. [Lardizabalacee.} Hardy or half-
hardy evergreen climber. Soil, peat and loam. Increased
by cuttings in sand in a gentle heat. L. biternata, flowers
purplish chocolate.

LARKSPUR. See Detrurnivum. ,

LASIOPETALUM. [Byttneriacee.] Greenhouse ever-
green shrubs. Soil, three parts sandy peat to one part light
loam, well drained. Cuttings of half-ripened shoots, planted
under bell-glasses in sand, will take root. (See THomasta.)
L. ferrugineum, flowers white. L. macrophyllum, purple and
green.

LASTHENTA. ([Composite.] A simple-flowered hardy
annual, useful as a dwarf free-blooming plant for small beds
and the margins of large beds or borders. Common soil,
rather poor. Increased by seeds.

LASTREA. Bucxier Fern. [Polypodiacee.] An exten-
sive genus of ferns, including stove, greenhouse, and hardy
kinds. The hardy ones comprise some of the most common
of our English species, which, from their free-growing habits
and conspicuous size, are well suited for rockwork on a large
scale, and their aspect, under favourable conditions, is very
ornamental. The tropical kinds require a high temperature
and a moist atmosphere, and those from temperate climate
may be grown in a moist shady greenhouse or pit. When
grown in pots they should have a loose turfy peat soil, mixed
with equal parts of mellow loam, and made rather sandy.
They are increased by division, or by sowing the spores as
seeds. L. acuminata, greenhouse evergreen; L. cristata,
hardy ; L. decomposita, greenhouse evergreen; L. decurrens,
greenhouse ; L. dilatata, hardy ; L. eburnea, stove; L. elongata,
greenhouse; L. filiz-mas, hardy; L. fwnisecii, hardy ever-
green; L. glabella, greenhouse evergreen; L. Goldiana,
hardy; L. hispida, greenhouse evergreen; L. Lancastriensis,
hardy; L. marginalis, hardy; L. Noveboracensis, hardy :

166 GLENNY'’S HANDBOOK

L. oreopteris, hardy; L. pubescens, greenhouse evergreen ;
L. rigida, hardy ; L. spinulosa, hardy ; L, thelypteris, hardy,
are all cultivated.

LATHYRUS. ([Leguminose, § Papilionacee.}] A genus
of showy hardy plants, annual and perennial, mostly climbers.
The best of them is the Sweet Pea (L. odoratus), and there is
not among the annuals a better nosegay flower than this; nor,
now that there are many varieties, is there a more lively
garden ornament. It has been attempted to grow the dif-
ferent coloured varieties separately, and a majority will some-
times prove like the parent, but they do not look so well
any way as mixed. They may be sown in pots in a warmish
frame in February for early bloom, and two months after-
wards they may be sown in the borders of the open ground:
others may be sown in May and June if a succession is
desired. They grow in any good light soil, and all the
attention they require is to be furnished with a few branches
with spray stuck in the ground for them to cling to. If they
are not allowed to seed, and the decayed blooms are removed
as fast as they decline, the bloom will continue some time;
but if they are allowed to swell their pods the bloom goes off
much sooner. The perennials may be raised by seeds or by
division, and merely require to be planted in the position
they are to occupy permanently, and to have pea-stakes put
to them annually for their branches to climb over.

LAUREL. See Laurus.

LAUREL CHERRY. See Cerasovs.

LAURESTINUS. See Visuryum.

LAURUS. Lavret. [Lauracee.] A genus of shrubs,
mostly evergreen. The most important is the Bay Laurel
(L. nobilis), a valuable hardy evergreen in the south of
England, growing admirably in light dry loamy soils, and
increased by cuttings at the end of summer undershand-lights
on a shady border, or by layers, or by seeds. In the northern
parts of the island it requires some protection. The varieties
of the Bay tree are—crispa, with curled leaves; latifolia,
with very broad leaves ; salicifolia, with long narrow leaves ;
undulata, with waved leaves; and variegata, with curled
leaves.

LAVANDULA. Lavenper. [Lamiacex.] Evergreen

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 167

shrubs, well known from the fragrance of their flowers.
Some of the species require greenhouse protection. Sandy
loam for the hardy kinds, and light loamy soil for the tender
ones. Increased by cuttings.

LAVATERA. [Malvacee.] Hardy and half-hardy plants,
of the Mallow tribe. The annuals should be sown in the
borders in March, and are increased by seeds. The others
are increased by seeds, and require to be planted in a sheltered
situation, in which they are sometimes destroyed, sometimes
uninjured by the winter. The shrubby kinds may also be
propagated by cuttings. A light dry soil suits all of them.
There are several species, but excepting the hardy kinds
they are not of much interest, being coarse.

LAVENDER COTTON. See Sanrorina.

LEADWORT. See Prumpaco.

LEDUM. Lasrapor Trea. ([Ericacee.] Pretty hardy
evergreen American plants. Soil, a rather sandy peat. In-
creased by layers. They are well suited for the margins
of peat beds. See also AMMYRSINE.

LEMON. See Cirrus.

LEONOTIS. Lion’s Ear. [Lamiacee.] A genus con-
taining some annual species and other soft-wooded green-
house shrubs. JL. leonurus, one of the latter, and the most
common in English gardens, is, when grown vigorously, very
ornamental, rich orange-coloured flowers being produced in
profusion in the axils of the leaves. Cuttings may be planted
early in spring, and root readily in bottom heat. When
rooted they should be potted into a light rich loamy soil,
hardened off as soon as possible to the greenhouse tempe-
rature, continually stopped to induce bushiness of growth,
and shifted as fast as the pots fill with roots, to give strength
to the plants. By the beginning of May they may be trans-
ferred to cold frames, and during the summer they are quite
as well grown exposed in the open air, so that care be taken
that they do not become parched, which destroys their
foliage. After the beginning of August the shoots should
not be topped, but allowed to grow away for blooming; or,
if ‘stronger spikes of bloom are required, the stopping may be
discontinued earlier. The object of stopping is, however, to
produce a very bushy plant that may yield a large number

168 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

of flowering shoots. There is no difficulty in cultivating the
plant, which, when established, should be erown in rich loam.
With this and other similar free-growing plants it is better to
raise young ones annually than to attempt to prune back or
otherwise renovate the old specimens. They are chiefly to be
preserved to furnish cuttings in the spring.

LEOPARD'’S BANE. See Doronicum.

LEPISMIUM. [Cactacee.] A small genus of minute-
flowered cactaceous plants, requiring the treatment of Epi-
phyllum, Cereus, &c.

LEPTOCERAS. [Orchidacew.] Greenhouse terrestrial
orchids. Soil, peat, leaf-mould, and sand. Increased by
division.

LEPTOSIPHON. [Polemoniaceew.] Beautiful dwarf
annuals, forming very pretty objects in clumps and beds, but
not very long-lived; and, moreover, the blooms look untidy
as soon as they begin to decline. The seeds may be sown in
the open air in March or April, and should be sown thinly,
because they then grow much more vigorously. They will
grow in poor soil, and do as well as any of the annuals in the
common borders ; but to have them in perfection they should
be grown in a very light rich soil, such as one-half very rotten
cowdung mixed with good garden earth. In the beds of
geometrical gardens, where they have to show a mass of
flowers, they should be thinned very evenly to about two
inches apart all over the space, because in beds which form
parts of a connected figure there must not be vacancies, nor
must the plants be too much drawn by being close together.
In patches the least quantity is about what could be sown in
a pot. Many adopt the very good plan of sowing annuals in
pots, and bedding them out afterwards, for the sake of having
the patches uniform.

LEPTOSPERMUM. Sovurn Sra Myrtie. [Myrtacee.]
Neat greenhouse evergreen shrubs, which may be grown
exactly in the same manner as Metrosideros. Soil, peat and
loam. Increased by cuttings under a bell-glass in sand, or
by seeds. Some of them will succeed against a conservatory
wall.

LESCHENAULTIA. [Goodeniacee.] Small evergreen
greenhouse shrubs of a very ornamental character. To pro-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 169

pagate them strike cuttings in sand under a bell-glass with
slight bottom heat. Pot them off as soon as they are well
rooted into three-inch pots, in which they are to remain until
the pots are filled with roots. The plants must have the ends
of the shoots pinched off directly they fairly start for growth,
which will induce side branches. In the summer months
they must have all the air that can be given. When the
pots get filled with roots shift to the next size larger, until
the plants are as large as required; but this shifting must
not take place between September and February, and during
the winter season the plants must always be kept very close
to the glass. The soil proper for the young plants is rather
light peat earth, with a fifth part sand, forming a sandy peat
of open texture. As they grow larger a little mellow loam
may be added, commencing in the proportion of one-sixth, and
never exceeding one-fourth of the whole. The roots of these
plants are very delicate, and soon injured irrecoverably by
either excess or lack of moisture, on which account the most
perfect drainage of the pots is essential, as well as the utmost
care in watering. The hot days of early summer are apt to
do irreparable mischief, by drying up the soil between the
periods at which watering is attended to. The safeguard is
assiduous attention—not the constant use of small portions of
water, which only moisten the surface, leaving the soil
below quite parched, but a thorough watering when the soil
is getting dry, not repeated until it is getting dry again, how-
ever long or short the time may be, and yet repeated before
it does get dry. This is the whole secret of watering deli-
cately-rooted plants. In winter any excess must be carefully
avoided, as at that season it does not pass off readily. L.
biloba, flowers blue, in June. L. formosa, flowers deep orange
scarlet. LL. oblata, flowers orange scarlet, in June. UL.
splendens, flowers bright scarlet. ;

LEUCADENDRON. [Proteaceew.] Greenhouse ever-
sreen shrubs, sometimes grown for their silvery foliage. Soil,
sandy loam, with one-third fibrous peat. Increased by im-
ported seeds, or by cuttings of the ripened shoots in sand
under close glasses. J. argenteum is the Silver tree of the
Cape colonists, so called from the whiteness of its silky leaves.
There are a good many species.

170 y's HAN
‘ GLENNYS HANDBOOK

LEUCHTENBERGIA. ([Cactacee.] A greenhouse suc-
culent, requiring the treatment of Echinocactus, Mammillaria,
&c. Soil, sandy loam, well drained. Increased by cuttings
or offshoots, artificially produced by destroying the crown of
the plant.

LEUCOCORYNE. [Liliacee.] Beautiful little bulbs
of the half-hardy class, allied to Brodiwa, and requiring the
treatment of Ixias. Soil, sandy loam, peat, and leaf-mould,
or well-decayed cowdung. Increased by offsets.

LEUCOJUM. Swyowrtaxe. ([Amaryllidacee.] Pretty
hardy bulbs, in foliage much like a Narcissus, in the flowers
like a Snowdrop, as the name Snowflake suggests. They
multiply by offsets in spring, and prefer sandy loam, though
they may be planted in ordinary garden soil like common
Narcissuses and Hyacinths.

LEUZEHA. ([Composite.] Hardy herbaceous purple-
flowered perennials, allied to Serratula. Common soil. In-
creased by division or by seeds.

LEYCESTERIA. [Caprifoliacese:] Half-hardy sub-ever-
green shrub. Sandy loam. Increased by cuttings of the
young shoots in spring under a hand-glass, or by seeds.
Suitable for a conservative wall. It is said to form a good
cover for game. LL. formosa, flowers white, with purple
bracts.

LIATRIS. [Composite.] Elegant hardy or half-hardy
herbaceous perennials of easy culture. Soil, sandy loam and
peat. Increased by division. The half-hardy kinds require
slight protection against wet in winter.

LIBERTIA. [lIridacee.] Beautiful Iris-like hardy or
half-hardy perennials. Soil, two-thirds peat to one-third
loam. Increased by division of the plants. They will often
survive if planted close to the foot of a wall with a warm
aspect. They are sometimes called Renealmia.

LIBOCEDRUS. [Conifere.] Beautiful hardy evergreen
trees. Soil, sandy loam. Increased by seeds when obtainable ;
otherwise by grafting on the common Arbor-vite.

LIDBECKIA. ([Composite.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrub from the Cape of Good Hope, bearing yellow flowers.
Soil, peat and loam. Increased by cuttings.

LIEBIGIA. [Gesneracee.] Stove sub-shrub. Soil, fibry

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 74h

peat, with plenty of sand. Increased by cuttings. L. speciosa,
flowers white and purple, in August.

LIGHTFOOTIA. [Campanulacee.] Sub-shrubby green-
house plants, allied to Campanula and Roella, bearing blue
flowers, and natives of the Cape of Good Hope. Soil, sandy
peat and loam. Increased by cuttings.

LIGULARIA. [Composite.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials, allied to Cineraria. Common soil. Increased by division.

LIGUSTRUM. Priver. [Oleacee.] Hardy evergreen
or sub-evergreen shrubs. The common sort, L. vulgare, is a
valuable hedge plant: the rarer sorts require a sheltered
situation, and are very handsome plants for conservative
walls. Privet hedges should be kept cut back very closely
while young, and require to be clipped at least twice a year.
Soil, sandy or chalky loam. Increased abundantly by seeds
or cuttings; the rarer sorts by grafting on the common. L.
Japonicum, L. lucidum, L. spicatum, L. vulgare, all flower
white.

LILAC. Syrinea.

LILIUM. Lity. [Liliaceew.] Beautiful hardy or half-
hardy bulbous-rooted perennials, containing many distinct
species, nearly, perhaps quite, all of which are sufficiently
hardy to admit of their being cultivated in the open garden.
The most beautiful of all is the ZL. speciosum and its
superb varieties, punctatum, roseum, rubrum, album, &c., some
of which are variegated as if rubies were stuck all over their
petals. To cultivate these in pots a compost of one-half
turfy peat, one-third turfy loam, and one-third decayed cow-
dung, with sand one-sixth of the whole added, is suitable.
Pot them in February ; use large pots, and choose very strong
double-crowned bulbs, two or three of which may go in a pot
a foot in diameter; drain them well, and plant the bulbs
three or four inches below the rims; place them in a cold
frame, and cover them from frost and heavy rains, but other-
wise give all the air possible. When the stems are five or six
inches long fill up the pots with the compost, which will
cause them to root up the covered part of their stems. As
they rise too high for the frame remove them to the green-
house, where they will flower in great perfection, and retain
their beauty a long time, if shaded from the heat of the sun.

172 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

Plants are easily raised from seeds sown an inch apart in
pans, and placed in heat. When up let them be removed to
the greenhouse, and be undisturbed two seasons; they may
then be placed in three-inch pots, and removed to larger as
they grow until they Hower. They are more generally multi-
plied by offsets, which form round the old roots, and such
plants sooner reach a flowering size. These Japan Lilies are,
however, sufficiently hardy to be grown in prepared beds in
the open air, if the beds are covered with some light compost
in winter; aud grown thus they form fine autumn-blooming
subjects. The hardy European and North Asian kinds grow
generally well in a rich sandy loam; but the American, like
the Japanese kinds, prefer a compost containing a consider-
able proportion of peat. They are all increased from offsets,
which are generally produced abundantly, or by separating the
scales of the bulbs and planting them as offsets. Some propa-
gate from little bulb-buds which are formed in the axils of
their leaves, and most of them may be multiplied from seeds
when it is worth while to raise them by this more tedious
process. The seeds should be sown as soon as ripe. The
bulbs of Lilies should not be suffered to dry when they are
taken out of the ground for transplantation. One of the most
striking modern additions to this family is the Indian ZL.
giganteum, a stately plant, eight to ten feet high, with large
heart-shaped leaves. It may be grown as directed for L.
speciosum, requiring that each bulb, if of flowering size,
should have a separate pot of from twelve to eighteen inches
in diameter. ‘The species and varieties are endless.

LILY OF THE VALLEY. See Convatiaria.

LIMNANTHES. [Tropeolacee.] Hardy annuals of
trailing habit, with neat but not showy flowers. They may
be sown in the open borders in March, and again in April for
succession. They are not very particular as to soil, but
prefer a moist situation. They flower in about six weeks
from the time of sowing.

LIMNOCHARIS. [Butomacex.] Stove aquatics, one of
which, L. Humboldtii, succeeds iu the open air in ponds or
tanks, where the water is warmed by anv artificial means.
It bears beautiful yellow flowers.all the summer. Propagated
by its runners, which strike root on the muddy soil.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 173

LINARIA. Toad Fax. [Scrophulariacee.] Hardy annual
and perennial herbs, the numerous species of which display
considerable diversity of character and habit. About half are

annuals, and a few require protection. L. alpina and L. tristis
are pretty minute plants for pot culture. LL. cymbalaria and

L. pilosa are suitable for rockwork, but the former is rather
encroaching. They all grow best in a dryish sandy loam,
and are propagated, the perennials by cuttings in summer
or division of the plants in spring, and the annuals by seeds.
Most of them are suitable for rockwork, especially the smaller
growers. ‘The half-hardy sorts should be grown in pots with
the alpines, and protected in cold frames in winter.

LINDLEYA. [Rosacexz.] Greenhouse evergreen shrub.
Soil, sandy loam. Increased by grafting on the Hawthorn,
or by seeds, or sometimes by cuttings of the ripened shoots.

LINNAMA. [Caprifoliacee.] A hardy trailing sub-
shrubby plant, commemorating the name of Linneus. Soil,
moist peat in a shady sheltered situation. Increased by
separating portions of its rooting trailing stems.

LINUM. Ftrax. {[Linacee.} A showy genus, consisting
principally of annual or perennial herbs, which grow freely in
ordinary garden soil, preferring sandy loam, and are propagated
by seeds, which are readily perfected. There are some
shrubby greenhouse kinds, which should be grown in a com-
post of two parts peat and one of loam, with enough sand
added to make it open, and are propagated by cuttings put

ina hotbed. The common cultivated Flax is L. usitatissimum.
«LL. flavum and L. trigynum are good ; and the annual, L. rubrum

— grandiflorum, is a great favourite.

LION’S EAR. See Leonotis.

LISIANTHUS. See Eusroma.

LITHOSPERMUM. Gromwett. [Boraginacee.]| Hardy
annuals and perennials. Dryish sandy loam. Increased by
division, cuttings, or seeds.

LITOBROCHIA. [Polypodiacee.] A genus of ferns,
priucipally stove species. Soil, turfy peat. Propagated by
division and by spores. L. macilenta and L. vespertilionis are
greenhouse.

LITTAA. [Amaryllidacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
perennial, allied to Agave, and often known-in gardens as_

174 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

Bonapartea, Soil, sandy turfy loam. Increased by suckers.
L. geminiflora, flowers green, in August.

LITTONIA. [Melanthacee.] A beautiful greenhouse
climber, tuberous-rooted, perennial. Soil, sandy loam and
peat. Division. LL. modesta, flowers brilliant orange, in
April.

LIVISTONIA. [Palmaceze.] Greenhouse Palms. Rich
sandy loam. Propagated by seeds. The principal are L.
humilis and L. mermis.

LLOYDIA. ([Liliacee.] Hardy perennial. Dry sandy
loam. Division. JL. striata is white striped.

LOASA. [Loasacee.] Hardy annuals, with pretty flowers,
the stems and leaves invested with poisonous stinging hairs.
They may be sown in the borders about the middle of April,
and again, if necessary, at the end of May. Increased by
seeds.

LOBELIA. [Lobeliacee.| An extensive genus of very
showy plants, comprising stove, greenhouse, and hardy species,
and consisting principally of perennial herbs, with a few
annuals and biennials. Peat and loam in equal quantities,
with a sixth part sand, form a good compost for the smaller
and more delicate species. The stroug-growing perennial
kinds flourish best in rich moist loam, but they must be
wintered in a dry cold frame. The annuals should be raised
in a slight heat in March, and pricked off into small pots,
hardened, and planted out in May. They are the better for
a liberal mixture of peat earth. The shrubby and sub-
shrubby kinds are increased by cuttings planted in sand, and
put in a hotbed; the perennials by division in early spring,
the shoots being first excited into growth in a mild heat, and
then separated into single pots of the smallest size, and put
in a warm frame until they are well established, when they
may be hardened to bear the open air. For blooming in pots
the herbaceous kinds must he shifted into larger pots pro-
eressively. A very rich loamy compost should be used, with
abundance of moisture. The more tender of these are best
kept nearly dry under a greenhouse stage during winter,
being very liable to rot from exposure to damp. L. gracilis
is a dwarf kind, bearing a profusion of small blue flowers
throughout the summer if treated like a half-hardy annual,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 175

and planted in the open ground in May. Of the same habit
are the L. erinus and its varieties, grandiflora, compacta, and
L. decumbens, perennials employed for the summer decoration
of flower gardens, all bearing blue flowers in profusion, and
suitable, from their dwarf habit, for planting close by the
edges of flower-beds and borders. The perennial kinds are
annually augmented by cross-bred varieties, which are con-
stantly giving place to new variations. The New Holland
perennial species generally are very beautiful plants, most
conveniently grown as annuals, and suitable either for pots or
beds. Raised in autumn, and wintered near the glass in a
cool greenhouse, they make beautiful pot plants. L. speciosa
is the best.

LGESELIA. See Horrzia.

LOMARIA. [Polypodiacee.] A genus of ferns, com-
prising several hardy and greenhouse species. Turfy peat
soil. Increased by division or by spores. L. alpina, hardy
evergreen. LL. auriculata, greenhouse evergreen. L. Capensis,
greenhouse evergreen. LL. Chilensis, evergreen. LL. Gilliesii,
greenhouse evergreen. IL. lanceolata, greenhouse evergreen.
L. Magellanica, half-hardy evergreen. LL. nuda, greenhouse
evergreen. JL. Patersoni, greenhouse evergreen. L. procera,
greenhouse evergreen. .

LONDON PRIDE. See Saxirraca.

LONICERA. Hoyeysucxte. ([Caprifoliacee.] Hardy
or half-hardy twining or bushy sub-evergreen or deciduous
shrubs. Honeysuckles are especial favourites in gardens, in
consequence of their delightful odour; indeed, in their exqui-
site fragrance, abundant bloom, and obedience to almost every
kind of treatment and training, they have hardly a superior
among all the hardy shrubs, unless it be in the Rose. They
are beautiful plants for covering a summer-house, or climbing
over a doorway or verandah, and by growing a few different
sorts flowers may be had in succession for several months.
They grow in any good garden soil, preferring, however, rich
light loam, and are propagated by suckers, by layers in autumn,
or cuttings: they may also be raised from seeds, for berries
are borne abundantly. The plants may be pruned moderately
close, or allowed to ramble without check or hinderance, and
in either case will produce bloom in due season, the quantity

176 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

of flowers depending on the quantity of branches to bear them.
One of the prettiest modes of growing the most desirable
varieties is to support the main stems until they are the
height required, and then to let them form a head like a
standard tree, which they will do at five or ten feet high
equally well, and require nothing but trimming to the form
desired, so as to check the shoots when they are prone to
ramble too far; and, in order to fill out any vacancies, super-
fluous shoots produced in one part may be trained so as to
make good the deficiencies. The flowers of the evergreen
Trumpet Honeysuckle (L. sempervirens), though very beautiful,
are inodorous. There are many varieties, all very fragrant,
but not very different.

LOOSESTRIFE. See Lysimacuta.

LOPEZIA. [Onagracee.] Hardy annuals of straggling
growth, forming a pretty mass when in flower. They may
be sown in March, along with the half-hardy kinds, for trans-
plantation, and again in April where they are intended to
bloom. Common soil. Seeds. The perennials propagated
by cuttings in summer. A greenhouse species, L. macro-
phylla, is a showy plant, and requires the treatment of
Fuchsia fulgens, having, like it, fleshy roots. .

LOPHOSPERMUM. [Scrophulariacee.| Showy ever-
green greenhouse climbers, adapted also for planting in the
flower garden during the summer season, and for covering
trellis-work. These plants all bloom pretty freely through-
out the summer, They ripen seeds freely in fine seasons,
from which they are best propagated : they also strike readily
from cuttings. Planted out for the summer they flourish in
ordinarily good garden soil; but if kept in pots, being large-
growing plants, they must have tolerably large pots of good
rich loamy soil, which, as the plants become large and begin
blooming, may be aided by applications of dilute liquid
manure, or by spreading a layer of dung on the surface, to be
washed in by the ordinary waterings. The old plants may be
kept through the winter in a greenhouse or protected frame
if their fleshy roots are kept tolerably dry. Li. scandens is a
pretty plant for planting around the edges of raised rustic or
other flower-baskets, balconies, or similar places. See also
RAODOCHITON.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 177

LOQUAT. See Eriopotrya.

LOTUS. Brrn’s-roor Trerom. [Leguminose, § Papi-
lionacee.] A genus containing many hardy annuals and
perennials, and some few greenhouse sub-shrubs. The most
ornamental for a garden is L. corniculatus flore-pleno, a dwarf
trailing plant, whose showy bright yellow double flowers are
borne profusely during a portion of the summer. This may
either be planted on rockwork or in the flower-border ; but
when put in the latter situation two or three moderate-sized
stones should be laid about it, over which its branches may
trail. L. Jacobeus is a remarkable greenhouse sub-shrubby
plant, rather delicate, or what is called a “ miffy,” being
liable to damp off in winter. It is increased by cuttings,
which should be taken early in summer, and potted off, so as
to be well established before winter. They should be kept
airy, and very carefully watered. If for pot culture they must
be shifted in spring, using a light porous loamy compost; if
for the flower garden, in which they succeed well in a
sheltered situation and a fine season, they must be gradually
hardened, and planted out by the end of May. The majority
are of little horticultural value.

LOUSEWORT. See Pepictraris.

LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING. See Amarantuus caupatus.

LUCULIA. ([Cinchonacee.] Very ornamental warm
greenhouse shrubs. They are beautiful and fragrant plants,
and grow exceedingly well by the aid of a vinery or moist
stove, though they succeed in a warm greenhouse or con-
servatory. In aspect they are not very unlike Hydrangeas.
Cuttings may be taken during summer from the ends of the
shoots that have no bloom: and these, rooted in sand under
a bell-glass, with the aid of a common hotbed, of which the
violent heat has gone off, should be potted, when well rooted,
into four-inch pots, and kept in a close pit or frame. When
established they may be kept growing in a temperature of
about 60° until one growth is completed, when they should
be kept cooler. Ifthe plants make a decided shoot upwards
the heart may be pinched out to cause lateral branches. In
the following spring, if the pot is well filled with roots,
change the plant to a six-inch pot, and thus continue to give
tivo or three shifts annually, if the roots are freely developed,

x

178 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

until the plant is in as large a pot as can be accommodated.
After this another mode of treatment must be adopted.
Allow the plant to bloom and go to rest for two or three
months, keeping it rather dry and cool; then take it out of
the pot, shake the soil from the roots, prune the latter more
or less according to their number, repot in a pot as small as
will hold the roots, plunge in a mild hotbed with a gentle
top heat, not exceeding 60°, and shift as required. The soil
should be porous fibry peat and loam, with plenty of sand.
The best results, however, are obtained by planting healthy
vigorous plants into the border of a conservatory. JL. gratis-
sima, flowers pink. L. Pinciana, flowers blush.

LUNGWORT. See Putmonarta.

LUPINUS. Lorie. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.]
An extensive genus, comprising annuals, perennial herbs, and
some few sub-shrubby species, nearly all hardy, easily culti-
vated, and possessing considerable general resemblance, so
that in a limited garden but a few of the kinds are required.
The perennials, L. polyphyllus and L. grandifolius, throw up
long pyramidal closely-set spikes of flowers, from two to four
feet in height, according to the strength of the plant. The
Lupines will all grow freely in good garden soil, which they
very much impoverish. The annuals should be sown in
March and April where they are to flower. The perennials
are increased by parting the roots, but much more freely by
seeds, which ripen abuudantly, and may be sown in June, in
which case the strongest of the plants will blossom the follow-
ing year. The half-hardy sub-shrubby species are also best
raised from seeds, and require to be wintered in a dry pro-
tected frame, and planted out about May. LL. mutabilis and its
variety Cruikshankii form beautiful objects if raised in
August, wintered singly in small pots in a day frame or airy
greenhouse shelf, shifted about March, and kept in a cold
frame till the end of May, and then planted out in good soil in
the flower garden. All the biennials may be treated as annuals.

LYCHNIS. ([Caryophyllaceze.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials, some of which are very ornamental. This may be said
of L. Chalcedonica, commonly called Scarlet Lychnis, of
which both double and single have been known in gardens
for many years, and are as common as the Stock or the Sun-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 179

flower. They require to be frequently transplanted and
divided, giving them fresh good compost—rich sandy loam—
at each planting, or they soon wear out; and this is more
particularly the case with the double than single-flowered
varieties: it should be done in spring. They develope a dense
head of brilliant scarlet blooms at the top of the stem. L.
fulgens and L. coronata are smaller, but very showy plants.
their roots require to be protected from wet in winter, either
by taking them up in autumn, potting them, and placing them
in a dry frame, or by covering the ground about them early
in autumn with some wet-repelling material, as dry sawdust,
asphalted felt, &ce. The dwarf hardy kinds are proper for
dry rockwork. They are propagated by parting the roots,
and also from seeds, which should be sown in pans or on
prepared beds about May, merely thinning out the young
plants until they are large enough to transplant, when they
may be placed in nursery-beds at nine inches apart, where
they remain till they are strong enough to produce blos-
soms. See also AcRosTEMMA and VIscaRIA.

LYCIUM. Box Tuory. ([Solanacese.] Hardy rambling
shrubby plants, requiring to be trained against a wall or
pillar, or supported by poles. They are free flowering, but
not showy, and rather adapted, from their free growth, for
covering arbours and unsightly buildings than desirable for
their crnamental properties. L. Huropeaum is especially
useful for this purpose, rapidly covering walls or buildings,
and growing to a considerable height, producing long flail-
like shoots, and an abundance of suckers. These long shoots,
if produced from the higher parts of the plant, will assume a
drooping position, and in the second year will bear a pro-
fusion of its changeable veiny purple-lilac flowers, so that a
succession of such branches should be annually maintained.
Root suckers ought to be destroyed continually. They are
all indifferent as to soil, provided it is moderately well
drained and porous, and are increased without difficulty
either by cuttings, by layers, or by suckers.

LYCOPODIUM. Crus Moss. [Lycopodiacee.] Hver-
green moss-like perennial herbs. Damp peatsoil. Increased
by careful division. They mostly require shade, seclusion,
and abundant moisture. The principal are L. alpinum, hardy ;

180 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

_ L. annotinum, L. clavatum, L. complanatum, L. dendroideum,
aud L. selago.

LYCORIS. [Amaryllidaceze.] Pretty hardy bulbs. Deep
sandy loam. Propagated by division.

LYGODIUM. Syaxz’s Toneve. [Osmundacee.] Elegant
climbing ferns of easy culture. Soil, turfy peat, sand, and
loam. Increased by division. The species mostly require
stove heat; but there are L.articulatum, greenhouse climbing,
and L. palmatum, hardy climbing.

LYONIA. [Ericacee.] Hardy ornamental shrubs, re-
lated to Andromeda. Sandy peat soil rather damp. In-
creased by layers in a damp peat bed, or by seeds, which
should be raised in a frame.

LYPERIA. ([Scrophulariacese.] Pretty greenhouse ever-
green sub-shrubs. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Increased by
cuttings in a gentle hotbed.

LYSIMACHIA. Loosesrrirz. ([Primulacee.] Hardy
perennials of the easiest culture, of small importance in a
flower garden. The genus contains a few half-hardy sub-
shrubby species, which are increased by cuttiugs in a gentle
hotbed in sand. L. nummularia, our native Moneywort, is
a pretty trailing plant, adapted for damp rockwork, or for
planting in a pot for the side of a shady window. Sandy
soil. All multiplied by division. L. Leschenaultia is pretty.

LYSINEMA. [Epacridacee.] Handsome rigid ever-
green greenhouse shrubs, scarcely different from Epacris, and
requiring exactly similar management. Soil, sandy peat.
Propagated by cuttings in sand under bell-glasses.

LYTHRUM. [Lythracew.] Hardy annuals or peren-
nials, the former of little interest; the latter ornamental, often
thriving in damp and even wet situations. L. alatum is a
showy half-hardy plant, with long, slender, scarcely branched
stems, bearing purple flowers throughout the summer, and
not unsuited for a good-sized bed. The hardy perennials
grow in ordinary soil, and are increased by division ; the half-
hardy one grows from cuttings, and should be potted in a soil
of three parts peat to one of loam. The annuals may be
sown in the open border in March.

MACARTNEY ROSE. See Rosa BRAcTEaTA.

MACHARANTHERA. Dagcer Friowrer. [Compo-

TO THZ FLOWER GARDEN. 181

uite.] A pretty half-hardy, sub-shrubby, probably biennial
plant, useful for the flower garden. Soil, sandy loam. Pro-
pagated by cuttings under a hand-glass in summer. JM.
tanacetifolia, flowers purple.

MACLEANIA. [Vacciniacee.] Handsome warm green-
house evergreen shrubs. Soil, sandy loam and fibry peat.
Propagated by cuttings in sand under a glass. They require
a mild winter temperature, rather higher than in an ordinary
greenhouse.

MACLEAYA. [Papaveracer.] Hardy herbaceous per-
ennials. Good garden soil. Increased by division in spring.

MACLURA. [Moracee.] This small genus contains one
hardy species, M. aurantiaca, which, under the name of the
Osage Orange, is much used for hedges in some parts of North
America, there taking the place of our Hawthorns. It
requires a dry warm soil. Increased by layers or by cuttings of
the roots.

MADARIA. [Composite.] Hardy annuals, showy, but
rather commonplace in their appearance : their golden-coloured
flowers have a ring of brownish blotches around the central
disc. They may be sown in frames for transplantation in
March, and in the open ground in April and May, and are
increased by seeds.

MAGNOLIA. [Magnoliacez.] Noble and striking hardy
shrubs and small trees, some among the handsomest of ever-
greens, others deciduous, and all beautiful as flowering plants.
The soil for these plants should be deep and good, ‘of open
texture, neither subject to parching nor liable to excessive
wet at any season. The Magnolias all grow finely in peat
earth, but this is not cuaorakeel to them. They are greatly
benefited, however, when planted in a young state, by having
a bushel or so of good compost placed about their roots: this
compost may be of equal parts light turfy loam and peat.
Layering is the most usual mode of propagating the Magnolia,
the layers being put down in autumn, and requiring a couple
of seasons to get well established. Many of the species do
not transplant well except when quite young, unless they are
kept in pots. On this account it is usual to keep them in
pots, and of all the choicer kinds no plants should be chosen
whose roots are not so protected ; but whenf this has been the

182 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

case the roots must be carefully uncoiled, and spread out in
straight lines when they are permanently planted. Seeds
may be often obtained from America, and the plants raised
from them are the most vigorous, but do not blossom so early.
They should be sown in sandy peat, placed in a warm frame,
potted as they appear, and kept for several years in a cold pit
during winter until they get well established. The arboreous
species are only suited for large gardens. M. grandiflora and
its varieties are evergreen trees, which should find a place in
every garden: they are usually trained against walls, which
they cover with a mantle of large glossy laurel-like leaves,
decorated from June to September with large white fragrant
cup-shaped blossoms, looking like large eggs when in the bud
state. Wherever there is a shrubbery or a clump of peat-
earth shrubs, one or two of the hardy deciduous species
should also be grown for their large fragrant blossoms in the
early spring months. J. fuscata, a small evergreen, some-
thing like a Camellia in its foliage, is a greenhouse plant,
and in May bears blossoms exquisitely fragrant, though not
very conspicuous. This should be potted in turfy loam and
peat, and is increased by grafting or inarching on the com-
moner kinds, as M. obovata, which mode of propagation is
also resorted to with the other weaker and more tender kinds.
M. conspicua, hardy deciduous tree. MM. fuscata, greenhouse
evergreen shrub, flowers brown. M]. glauca, hardy deciduous
tree. M. grandiflora, hardy evergreen tree. Of this there
are several varieties, among which that known as Hamouthiana
is the most desirable. J. macrophylla, hardy deciduous tree,
flowers white and purple. MM. purpurea, hardy deciduous
shrub, flowers purple. M. tripetala, hardy deciduous tree.
Those not deciduous otherwise bloom white.

MAHERNIA. [Byttneriacez.| Small soft-wooded green-
house sub-shrubs. They are raised from cuttings planted in
sand, and placed in a moderate hotbed. The plants grow
well in a light compost of loam, peat, and leaf-mould in equal
parts, the texture opened by the addition of a little sand.
They are liable to grow straggling, and hence to produce a
well-formed plant frequent resort must be had to the plan of
topping the young shoots while in a growing state, to cause
them to develope lateral growth: the plant form pretty low

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 183

pyramids if a shoot or two are supported in an erect position
in the centre, and the laterals treated in the manner de-
scribed. They should frequently be renewed from cuttings,
as a large plant can be obtained in a single season, and young
healthy plants are always the most vigorous. Their spirally-
folded blossoms are very curious.

MAHONIA. See BrersBeris.

MAIDEN-HAIR FERN. See Apranrum.

MAIDEN-HAIR TREE. See SatisBurta.

MALCOMIA. ([Crucifere.] Hardy annuals, of which
one species, M. maritima, the Virginian Stock, is a favourite
dwarf ornament for the flower-border, very easily grown, but
not durable: in good-sized patches it forms a showy mass of
simple flowers. If sown by the middle of March it will, in
favourable seasons, be in bloom early in May; but to have a
good succession of flowers it ought to be sown monthly from
March to August. It is quite hardy, and forms a pretty
edging plant for large borders. The other species may be
similarly cultivated. The best are JZ. maritima, M. litorea,
M. incrassata, and M. arenaria.

MALESHERBIA. [Malesherbiacez.] Curious and pretty
greenhouse shrubs and annuals. Soil, two parts peat to one
part loam and one of sand. The annuals are increased by
seeds sown in a warm frame in March, pricked off, potted,
and shifted as required, and transferred to the greenhouse
when established. The shrubby kinds may also be increased
by seeds, and by cuttings of the young shoots in sand in a
hotbed. M. fasciculata, flowers white. M. linearifolia, flowers
blue. M. thyrsiflora, flowers yellow.

MALOPE. ([Malvaceze.] Showy Mallow-like annuals of
very simple culture. ‘The seeds may be sown in March, and
again in April, in the open border ; the plants to be thinned
out when large enough, leaving about three of the strongest
in a patch. ‘To get plants to bloom earlier than usual they
may be sown in pots along with half-hardy annuals, and
planted out as early in May as the season will admit.
M. malacoides, flowers purple. M. irifida, flowers crimson.
Of this there is a variety with white flowers called alba, and
another with larger flowers called grandiflora.

MALVA. Mattow. [Malvacee.] <A’ large genus, of

184 GLENNY'8 HANDBOOK

which the majority are weedy: a few, however, such as mos-
chata, Munroana, and purpurata, are ornamental. The half-
hardy sorts will grow during summer in the borders in good
garden soil, or in a mixture of loam, Jeaf-mould, and sand,
and are increased by cuttings in sand in a frame during
summer. The greenhouse kinds also propagate by cuttings,
and grow in similar soil. The hardy annuals may be sown
in patches in the open border in March and April.

MAMMILLARIA. Nyippte Cactus. [Cactacee.] An
extensive group of very interesting lumpish spiny succulent
plants, closely allied to Echinocactus, and requiring in every
respect similar treatment; but the species are many of them
taller and of more cylindrical form than in that genus, and,
instead of having a ribbed surface, it is in this family disposed
in more or less prominent tubercles, or teat-like protrusions,
each terminated by a cluster of spines. In spring they should
be repotted or dressed in a compost of loam, sand, old dry
cowdung, and brick rubbish, and put in a temperature of
from 70° to 80°, with abundant atmospheric moisture, but
little water to the roots until they are making free growth.
By midsummer the supply must be reduced, the plants
being exposed to strong sun heat, and in autumn and winter
they must be kept nearly dry. Like the Echinocacti, they
are all alike desirable where the curiosities of vegetation
are held in esteem. There are upwards of seventy reputed
species, the enumeration of which would be tedious and
unprofitable, in consequence. of the close similarity which
would be presented by any general description. The flowers
are not showy.

MANDEVILLA. [Apocynacee.] A greenhouse ever-
green climbing shrub, and one of the best that is grown, if it
be planted out in a warm greenhouse or conservatory, and
provided it is well ripened in autumn, rested in winter, and
fairly excited in spring. The blossoms are deliciously fragrant.
The proper compost consists of half peat and half loam in a
rough turfy state, and of this the plant must have a good
bulk if it is to make a healthy and satisfactory growth. The
leading branches must be trained carefully as they grow; and
in winter, when the growth is over and well ripened, they
may be pruned in rather closely. Propagated by cuttings of

SS a

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 185

the short side-shoots planted in sand, and placed where they
have a gentle bottom heat. IM. suaveolens, flowers white, in
June.

MANDRAGORA. Manpraxe. ([Solanacee.}] Hardy
herbaceous perennials, requiring a dry deep soil, and protection
against wet as well as severe frosts in winter. Increased by

seeds—more surely by division. '

MANETTIA. [Cinchonacee.] Beautiful stove climbers,
bearing a profusion of tubular blossoms of bright showy
colours. They are propagated by cuttings of the young
shoots planted in sand, and placed in a hotbed under a bell-
glass. When rooted they should be potted singly into small
pots, and grown on in a stove, shifting them as often as the
roots become numerous among the soil. When they begin
to grow freely they must have trellises or some support for
their branches. It is a good plan to put a long upright
stake for the first year, as the shoots can be returned down-
wards, and back again if necessary. In the spring, after a
moderately dry season of rest, the plants must be potted into
pots large enough to bloom them in, as they are not easily
shifted after permanent trellises are fixed. The soil should
be rough and turfy, composed of peat, loam, and leaf-soil in
equal parts, intermixed with a considerable proportion of
sand. Good drainage is essential. The stems should be cut
back to the mature wood, from which vigorous branches will
be produced as soon as the roots begin to extend among the
soil. ‘Trellises of cylindrical form are the most suitable,
around which the branches are to be trained spirally until
the space is covered, when the points of the shoots must be
allowed a little liberty. Old plants must be rested and re-
potted annually. They are among the prettiest of pot climbers
for the stove.

MANULEA. ([Scrophulariacez.] Greenhouse sub-shrub.
Soil, sandy peat and loam. Propagated by cuttings in sand
under a bell-glass. MM. rubra, flowers red. M. viscosa, flowers
pink.

MAPLE. See Aczr.

MARIANTHUS. [Pittosporacee.] Beautiful twining
greenhouse shrubs. Soil, rough turfy loam and peat in equal
proportions, made rather sandy. Propagated by cuttings in

186 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

sand under a bell-glass. They are admirable plants for train-
ing on cylindrical trellises. M. ce@ruleo-punctatus, flowers
greyish blue.

MARICA. [Iridacew.] Warm greenhouse evergreen
herbaceous perennials, with very beautiful but ephemeral
flowers. Soil, loam and peat of open texture. Increased by
division, or by planting adventitious offshoots or cuttings.

MARIGOLD. See Catenputa.

MARJORAM. See Ortcanoum.

MARSH MALLOW. See AtrHH%a.

MARSH MARIGOLD. See Catrwa.

MARTAGON. See Linum.

MARTYNIA. [Pedaliacez.}| Greenhouse or half-hardy
annuals, with a somewhat coarse habit and showy flowers.
The seeds should be sown in a hotbed in March, and the
young plants potted singly, and kept growing in heat near
. the glass in the way Balsams are managed. As they grow
they must be shifted, and hardened off to bloom in a cool
stove or greenhouse or frame. M. fragrans, the best of the
species, will also succeed in a sheltered place, planted out for
the summer. They require rich light soil.

MAKVEL OF PERU. See Mirasizis.

MATHIOLA. Srocx. ([Crucifere.] A favourite genus
of hardy plants, among the sweetest and gayest of garden
flowers of which one familiar species, M. annua, the Ten-
week Stock, is an annual; another, M. simplicicauiis, the
Brompton or Giant Stock, is a biennial ; and M. incana, the
Queen Stock, is a sub-shrubby kind, though best treated as a
biennial. The varieties of these, especially of the first, are
very numerous, and, as imported from Germany, very fine. Of
the ordinary hoary-leaved Ten-week or annual Stock there
are a score or more different colours, which the German seed-
growers save distinct. Of the Ten-week Stock having smooth
green or Wallflower-like leaves there are also many varieties
of colour; and, besides these, there are variations of habit
which have become perpetuated by careful seed-saving. The
biennial Stock, that is, those sown one year to bloom the
next, varies as much as the annual in regard to habit, but not
in respect to colour. The Brompton and the Queen Stock
are well-known distinctions in this class. When once posses-

TO THkL FLOWER GARDEN. 187

sion is obtained of a good strain of Stock, which produces but
few single-flowered ones out of a great number, there is not
much difficulty in keeping it, for the Stock has a strong dis-
position to go double; and when a few single ones only
escape this tendency they may be expected to yield seed
equally disposed to produce double flowers. On the other
hand, if we remove a single Stock from among hundreds of
others equally single, and of a batch or strain which has no
disposition to go double, that single one would not yield in
its progeny one more double variety for being planted among
a thousand double ones; so that the common advice to save
seed from such single-flowered plants as grow near many
double ones is good for nothing, unless the single ones come
from the same “ strain,’ and have the same disposition as
the double ones themselves, that is to say, are of the same
progeny. In other words, the planting of a thousand double
Stocks around a single one does not change the nature of its
seed ; but the tendency to doubleness is an inherent property
brought about in certain plants or batches of plants by careful
culture and seed-saving, as all other floral improvements have
been, and is not shared by other plants or batches of plants,
though of the very same kind, which have not been so in-
fluenced. The single-flowered plants only bear seed. The
tendency to doubleness is sometimes indicated by the pro-
duction of flowers with more than the usual number of petals
(four), and when this is observed it may be taken as a favour-
able indication, and such blossoms should be marked, and
their seed kept separately. The Ten-week Stocks should be
sown in March, April, and May, for summer and autumn-
blooming plants: they may be sown in boxes, in a frame, or
on prepared sheltered beds. When up give plenty of air, and
no more water than is just enough to keep them from flagging.
When they have formed six good leaves plant them out in a
bed of rich soil, or pot them off in rich soil, and give plenty
of water until they bloom. For earlier spring bloom they
as well as what is called the Intermediate Stock, should be
sown in August and September, aud wintered in pots in dry
cold frames. The Brompton and Queen Stocks may be sown
in the open border thinly, in June, and the plants, when large
enough, planted out in sheltered places where they are to

188 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

bloom; or some of them may be potted and kept in frames
during winter, to be planted out in spring. They will bloom
the following May and June. Cuttings may be struck from
these two-year Stocks, when they are fine enough to be
worth it, under a glass in the common borders like Wall-
flowers. WM. tristis, the night-smelling Stock, is a greenhouse
shrub, and though not showy, the flowers being of a dull
livid colour, yet it is desirable on account of its powerful
vespertine fragrance. This grows in a light, sandy, loamy _
compost, and is propagated by cuttings. There is no limit to
the varieties.

MATRICARIA. [Composite.] Weedy hardy annuals for
the most part, with single white Daisy-like flowers. The only
exception worth cultivating is a double-flowered variety of
M. chamomilla, called grandiflora, which, as it does not bear
seed, may, if frequently renewed, be continued as a perennial:
its double white blossoms render it deserving of being grown
in a mixed border. The young shoots should be taken off from
near the root, and treated like cuttings. Common garden soil.

MAURANDYA. [Scrophulariacee.] Ornamental green-
house climbers of slender habit, and also suitable for planting
in the open air during the summer, for the purpose of cover-
ing wire fences, pillars, &c. They are best raised from seeds,
which, to insure strong blooming plants, should be sown about
June, and the young plants potted singly, and kept in small
pots during winter in a greenhouse. These, if shifted into
larger pots in February or March, will be strong and vigorous
by the planting-out time— May. For the greenhouse they
require shifting into large pots of rich soil, of which the basis
is sandy loam, and training about pillars, short rafters, or
suitable trellises. They grow to a considerable size when
their roots have free scope. They may be increased from
cuttings, which root readily in sand in a hotbed. M. Bar-
clayana, greenhouse climbing perennial, flowers purple, or
rose-coloured, or white, all summer.

MEADOW RUE. See Tua ictrum.

MEADOW SAFFRON. See Cortcuicum.

MECONOPSIS. [Papaveracee.] Hardy Poppy-like her-
baceous perennials. Soil, sandy loam. Increased by seeds
sown in May, or by division.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 189

MELALEUCA. [Myrtacee.] Showy evergreen green-
house shrubs, remarkable for the beauty of their anther-
‘threads, which form the conspicuous part of their blossoms.
They are propagated by cuttings of the firm young shoots in
‘sand under a bell-glass, and should be grown in a mixture
of loam, peat, and sand, at first using small pots, and shifting
them on into larger ones as they grow. ‘The shoots must be
kept freely topped while the plants are young, to produce a
bushy compact growth. Metrosideros, Calothamnus, and Cal-
listemon are genera closely related to this.

MELASTOMA. [Melastomacez.] Fine evergreen shrubs,
mostly vigorous in habit, generally stove plants, but in some
cases requiring the extra heat of a hothouse only for a few
months in the spring. They may therefore be grown in a
frame, and transferred to the greenhouse after its usual
occupants are placed elsewhere, in the same way as tender
annuals are generally accommodated. ‘They strike freely
from cuttings, and only require to be shifted on into larger
pots as they get full of roots. Cuttings taken very early in
spring might be bloomed during summer. In winter they
require a dryish atmosphere, something warmer than a green-
house. The soil should be equal parts of good loam and peat
earth, with plenty of sand. MM. corymbosa and M. Malaba-
thrica, flower rose; and M. gigantea, pink.

MELIA. Breap Tree. [Meliacee.] A genus of hand-
some shrubby plants, of which some will succeed in a green-
house or against a wall in the open garden. Soil, loam and
peat. Increased by seeds, or by cuttings of the ripened
shoots under glass.

MELIANTHUS. Honey FiLower. ([Zygophyllacez.]
Greenhouse or half-hardy evergreens, with striking foliage.
Rich light loamy soil. Increased by suckers or by cut-
tings of the young shoots. These plants succeed against
wall in the climate of London—spring up from the roots
annually.

MELICHRUS. [Epacridacee.}] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Soil, sandy peat. Increased by cuttings as Epacris.

MELISSA. Batu. [Lamiacew.] Hardy herbaceous
perennials. Common soil. Increased by division.

MELITTIS. Basrarp Batu. [Lamiaceez.] Hardy herba-

190 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

ceous perennials of easy culture. Propagated by division, and
growing in ordinary garden soil. They are rather pretty.

MELOCACTUS.. Menon Tuistie Cactus. [Cactacee. }
A small group of the Cactus family, with the ribbed spiny
character of Echinocactus, but usually growing much larger,
especially in the case of M. communis, the Turk’s Cap, which
sometimes measures as much as two feet in diameter: they
are crowned at top by a curious woolly tuft, from among
which the small flowers are protruded. Large plants of this
are sometimes imported, but they are difficult to preserve alive,
in consequence of the injuries they sustain in their transit.
They must be treated like the Echinocacti. Soil, loam and lime
rubbish. Increased by seeds, or by offshoots treated as cuttings :
the latter should be partially dried before being planted.

MENIOCUS. ([Crucifere.] Hardy annual. Common
soil. Seeds. MM. linifolius, flowers yellow.

MENISCIUM. ([Polypodiacee.] Interesting evergreen
ferns, of which the greater number require a stove. Soil,
turfy peat, loam, and sand. Increased by division or by
sowing the spores. M. simplex is a warm greenhouse fern.

MENISPERMUM. Moonsgep. [Menispermacee.|] The
genus contains one or two hardy deciduous climbers, with
good-looking foliage, but not otherwise ornamental. The
principal are M. Canadense, M. Carolinum, otherwise called
Cocculus Carolinus, and M. Dahuricum.

MENTZELIA. ([Loasacee.] Halfhardy herbaceous
perennials. Soil, sandy loam and peat. Increased by
cuttings in sand in a hotbed, or by seeds in a slight heat.

MENYANTHES. Bucxsean. [Gentianacee!] Hardy
aquatic perennial. Moist boggy soil, or in shallow water.
Increased by division. WM. trifoliata, flowers white and pink.

MENZIESIA. ([Ericacee.] Pretty dwarf hardy deci-
duous shrubs. Sandy peat soil. Increased by layers or by
cuttings under a hand-light. M. ferruginea, flowers rust
colour. M. globularis, flowers yellowish brown.

MERENDERA. ([Melanthacee.} Hardy Crocus-like
bulb. Soil, peat and loam. Increased by offsets.

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. Fie Maricorp. [{Mesem-
bryacee.] A very extensive family of greenhouse succulent
plants, the greater number being of shrubby habit. They

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 191

‘are increased by cuttings, which should be a little dried
before planting, and inserted in sand, and set on a shelf in
‘the greenhouse. The best compost for them is loam, inter-
‘mixed with sand and broken potsherds to keep it porous.
‘Some of them are very handsome when in perfection, but
they do not assort well with other plants. Being of easy
management, scarcely requiring watering except in the height
of summer, and but seldom needing to *be repotted, they are
well suited for window cultivation, and especially for hot
sunny windows. WM. crystallinum, the common Ice plant, is a
half-hardy annual species, interesting only on account of its
sparkling hyaline leaves. M. pyropwum, or tricolor, is a
beautiful greenhouse annual, which should be sown in the
hot frame in February, potted off as soon as large enough to
handle, three or four in a pot, and grown on in a frame until
well established, when it may be removed for blooming to the
greenhouse. Many of the species of Mesembryanthemum are
interesting objects, on account of their peculiar habit and the
form of their foliage.

METROSIDEROS. [Myrtacez.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, requiring the same treatment as Melaleuca, to which
they are allied. Soil, loam and peat in equal parts, with
sand. Increased by cuttings in sand under a bell-glass
The species sometimes succeed against a conservative wall.

MEXICAN LILY. See Hippreasrrum ReGINUM.

MEZEREON. See Dapune.

MIGNONETTE. See Resepa.

MILFOIL. See AcuHiLcea.

MILK VETCH. See Asrracatus.

MILKWORT. See Poryea.a.

MILLA. [Liliacee.] Halfhardy bulbs. Soil, light
dryish loam. Propagated by offsets.

MIMOSA. [Leguminose.] This comprises the Sensitive
plants, M. sensitiva and M. pudica, two stove shrubs, the foliage
of which is endowed with a very remarkable and interesting
sensibility, for the sake of which they are cultivated. The
flowers of both are purplish—little globular balls of coloured
threads—not at all showy, but the leaves are very elegant.
The peculiarity which obtains for them both their name and
popularity is the shrinking of the branches and folding up of

192 GLENNY 8 HANDBOOK

the leaves at the slightest touch or disturbance. If a leaf be
touched it falls down, and the leaflets close ; and if the whole
plant be shaken or jerked all the leaves immediately close and
hang down. The seeds are sown in a hotbed in March, and
potted off as soon as they are large enough to handle into
small-sized three-inch pots, in a light soil of sandy peat and
loam. They are best kept in a hot frame till June, when
they may be placed in any part of the stove or in a warm
greenhouse. ‘They must be shifted from small to larger pots
as required. They seed freely enough; but when they are
grown for seed they are sown in February, potted off in
March, and are in full flower and, seeding long before those
sown ip March. ‘They are also increased by cuttings in sand
under bell-glasses in heat. M. sensitiva is not so irritable as
MM. pudica. They are only grown as curiosities. There are
many other Mimosas, chiefly shrubs of little interest.
MIMULUS. Mowxey Frower. [Scrophulariacez.] Showy
herbaceous plants, mostly perennial ; some small Musk plants
are annual. The ornamental garden Mimuluses are mostly
seedling varieties raised by florists, the offspring of M. luteus,
M. guttatus, and M. variegatus, on the one hand, and of M.
cardinalis and M. roseus on the other, and little trace of the
originals now remains. ‘These races are fugitive, the varieties
of to-day continually giving place to others of some supposed
superiority. Rich loamy soil, or, indeed, ordinary garden soil
if good, will grow them well; but they like a damp, cool, and
somewhat shady situation in summer, and are the better for
some slight shelter in winter. A reserve should be kept in
pots, protected in cold frames through the winter. M. mos-
chatus is a favourite pot plant for the window: it is quite
hardy in sheltered situations, and grows readily in pots of
rich mould. The varieties are multiplied by division, and
new varieties are obtained from seeds, which, if sown in heat
in March, and nursed on in frames, will come into bloom in
the course of the summer. Seeds are freely produced.
MINA. [Convolvulaceew.] A pretty greenhouse climbing
annual or biennial. Its flowers are produced, unlike most
Convolvuli, in one-sided forked racemes, and are of so
singular a contracted form at the mouth, that were the leaves
removed its relation would hardly be suspected. The seeds

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 193

should be reared in a hotbed, potted separately, and shifted
on into larger pots as they advance in growth, using a light
rich compost of loam, leaf- mould, peat soil, and sand,
gradually hardening off the plants by transferring to cooler
frames, and at length to the greenhouse. It is increased by
cuttings as well as by seeds. MM. lobata, flowers crimson,
changing to orange.

MIRABILIS. Marvet or Perv. [Nyctaginee.] Showy
half-hardy perennials, with thick fusiform roots. These plants
are deservedly a great favourite in gardens, where they make
towards autumn a splendid appearance. ‘The branching
stems bear roundish flowers, with rather a long tube, and, as
these come at every joint when fairly open, they cover the
plant. The individual blooms are in one respect like the
Convolvulus—they shut up on dull days, so that it is an
ungracious-looking plant in bad weather. In some kinds the
tubes of the flowers are two or three inches long; in others
they are shorter. The colours vary from yellow to red, white,
and all shades between them, and sometimes two of the colours
are disposed in stripes. To have choice varieties sow the best
seed that can be got, and select each year the best that are
produced for seed-bearmg. ‘Sow the seed in a hotbed in
March, and as soon as the plants are large enough pot them
three or four or half a dozen in a pot, to grow until the middle
of May, when they may be planted out in the beds or borders
at a foot apart. Here they will only require to be kept clear
of weeds, and be watered in the event of the weather proving
more than usually parching, but not if the weather be at all
seasonable. The foliage will be touched by the first frost,
after which the roots may be dug up, and stored away amongst
dry sand where the frost cannot reach them. In April they
may be put in the ground where they are to flower, whether
that be in beds or borders ; or, if any good ones are worth pro-
pagating, put them in heat in March, and strike the shoots
like those of the Dahha. To effect improvements a few seeds
from the very best should be saved every year, and these
plants are then best grown in beds, as they can then be more
readily examined, and the worthless ones destroyed. It is in
the size, colours, and markings of the flowers that improve-
ments are chiefly to be effected.

0)

194 GLENNY $8 HANDBOOK

MIRBELIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Pretty
greenhouse evergreen pea-flowered shrubs, requiring the treat-
ment of Chorozema. Soil, sandy turfy peat, with a little
fibry loam. Increased by cuttings in sand under bell-glasses.
M. Baxteri, flowers yellow and red. WM. dilatata, flowers
purple. M. floribunda, flowers purple. M. grandiftora,
flowers yellow.

MITELLA. [Saxifragaceze.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials, suitable for rockwork. Common soil. Increased by
division.

MITRARIA. [Gesneracee.] A beautiful evergreen
warm greenhouse shrub, with scarlet tubular flowers. Soil,
fibry peat and loam. with an eighth part sand. Increased by
cuttings in sand under a bell-glass in heat during the spring
and summer. The young plants should be stopped frequently
to secure bushiness of habit. M. coccinea, flowers scarlet.

MOCK ORANGE. See Pumapetpnvs.

MODIOLA. [Malvacee.] Half-hardy annuals and per-
ennials. Common soil. Increased by seeds or divisions.

MOHRIA. [Polypodiacee.} A genus of elegant stove and
greenhouse ferns. Soil, peat, loam, and brick rubbish. In-
creased by division. These plants must not be over-watered.
M. thurifraga is the principal.

MONARDA. ({Lamiacee.} Handsome hardy herbaceous
pereunials, the plants having an odour compared to bergamot.
They are increased by division of the root, and flourish in the
ordinary soil of gardens, preferring situations cool in summer.
The principal varieties are M. amplexicaulis, white and pink ;
M. didyma, scarlet; M. Kalmiana, M. purpurea, purple.

MONKSHOOD. See Aconitum.

MONOLOPIA. [Composite.] Pretty hardy annuals.
Good garden soil. Increased by seeds. M. major flowers
yellow, and is the best.

MONOTOCA. ([Epacridacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, with white flowers. Soil, sandy peat. Increased by
cuttings in sand under bell-glasses.

MONSONIA. ([Geraniaceze.} Ornamental greenhouse
herbaceous plants, chiefly perennials. Soil, turfy loam and
decayed leaves, with sand. Increased by division and cuttings
of the root, or by cuttings of the plant in spring.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 195

MOONSEED. See MenisperMum.

MORASA. [Iridaceew.] A considerable genus of pretty
greenhouse perennial plants, mostly bulbous, and all of them
desirable. ‘They require the treatment of Ixia. The half-
hardy species should be taken up or well protected in winter.
Soil, turfy peat, loam, and sand. Increased by offsets.

MORINA. [Dipsacee.] Showy half-hardy herbaceous
perennials. Propagated by seeds. Sow in pots in slight
heat in April, prick into pots of light soil, and harden off
in frames. Plant out in a sheltered border, where the plants
may remain for flowering the following year; or, in case of a
severe winter, a supply should be kept in pots (not too small),
and protected in cold frames through the winter. They will
generally survive at the foot of a wall if the soil be tolerably
dry.

-MORNA. [Composite.] Showy greenhouse plants. The
annual species should be raised from seeds in autumn, about
September, and again in spring, about March, the former
blooming the following spring, the latter during summer and
autumn. Prick out the seedlings, and pot when large enough,
three or four in a pot. Shift them as required for blooming
in pots in the greenhouse, or a portion may be planted
out in a warm situation towards the end of June. Light rich
compost should be used, as loam, leaf-mould, and sand. The
perennial kinds are increased by cuttings as well as by seeds.

MOTHER WORT. See Leonvurus.

MOUNTAIN EBONY. See Bavuinta.

MOUTAN. Tree Prony. [Ranunculacee.] These are
well-known and highly ornamental shrubs. Soil, peat and
loam. They are multiplied by grafting on the fleshy roots of
the herbaceous Peonies, and also by layers. The plants are
hardy, but, as they come early into flower, the blossoms are
apt to be injured unless protected. In cold conservatories,
with the mere shelter of the glass, or against conservative
walls, they form splendid objects: they are also suitable for
growing as large pot plants, to be set in any effective sheltered
position while they remain in bloom. Any of tbe numerous
varieties are worth cultivating.

MULGEDIUM. ([Composite.] A pretty hardy peren-
nial, suitable for dry rockwork or a very dry border. Soil,

196 GLENNY'’S HANDBOOK

sandy loam, well drained. Increased by seeds, cuttings, or
division. M. macrorhizum, flowers pale blue.

MULLEIN. See Vrersascum.

MURALTIA. [Polygalacee.] Pretty greenhonse ever-
green shrubs of furze-like character, requiring the same
treatment as Polygalas, to which they are related. Soil,
sandy peat, with one-third loam. Increased by cuttings in
sand under bell-glasses. M. Heisteria is scarcely ever out of
flower under good management, though the flowers are in-
dividually small.

MUSA. Prantain Tree. [Musacee.] This genus in-
cludes the Banana (M. sapientum) and Plantain (M. paradi-
siaca), which some botanists have considered as mere varieties.
There are several species introduced, but the most interesting
are M. Cavendishii, a dwarf kind that may be easily culti-
vated for its fruit; M. coccinea, a small kind, ornamental,
from the scarlet colour of its erect bracts; and M. ornata,
also of moderate growth, bearing an ornamental drooping
raceme of orange flowers, with light purple bracts. ‘The rest
are mostly very large growers, requiring more room than can
be generally afforded them. The M. Cavendishit bears at
the height of six feet, while some of the others do not flower
under double or treble that height. The soil they grow
best in consists of two-thirds rich loam from rotted turves,
and one-third decomposed dung. ‘They must be placed in
a warm part of the stove. They are propagated by suckers,
which should be taken off carefully before they are much
advanced, and potted in pots that will only just hold them:
they require to be changed from time to time as_ they
advance until they bloom and bear fruit.

MUSCARI. Grape Hyactnru. [Liliacee.] Dwarf
hardy bulbs, which multiply so readily by means of offsets
that they are in some cases troublesome to extirpate when
once introduced, owing to their numerous minute progeny.
The bulbs should remain in the soil from year to year, not
taken up and dried; but every third or fourth they may be
taken up and replanted in September, or early in October,
before they begin to grow. Common garden soil; but a
sandy loam is most congenial to these, as to all other bulbs.

MUSK PLANT. See Mriuvtvs moscuatus.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 197

MYOPORUM. {[Myoporacee.}] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, some of which are pretty. Soil, fibry peat and loam,
with sand. Propagated by cuttings in sand under bell-
glasses. M. crassifollum, M. ellipticum, and M. parvifolium
flower white.

MYOSOTIS. ([Scrophulariacee.] This genus contains
the Forget-me-not (M. palustris), a plant which, though
indigenous to this country, and common enough by the sides
of ditches and streams, yet thrives well under cultivation in
situations moderately moist, and becomes very pretty, its
blossoms, borne in scorpoid racemes, being of a very delicate
pale blue, with a golden eye. It is of the readiest growth
in any situation where a supply of moisture can be given to
it. MM. Azorica, a handsome greenhouse or half-hardy species,
with dark blue flowers, grows freely in a mixture of turfy
peat soil and loam, and is increased by cuttings.

MYRICA. Canpieserry Myrtie. [Myricacee.] Hardy
deciduous shrubs. Peat soil. Increased by seeds or layers.
M: Californica is the best.

MYRSINE. [Myrsinacee.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs
of neat habit and foliage, but having inconspicuous flowers.
Sandy peat and loam. Increased by firm cuttings in sand
under bell-glasses.

MYRTUS. Myrrre. [Myrtacez.] Well-known favourite
evergreen shrubs, mostly requiring greenhouse protection.
Soil, two-thirds sandy loam to one-third peat earth or leaf-
mould. Increased readily by cuttings in sand under a glass.
The common Myrtle, as well as the double, will flourish
against a wall in the open garden in favourable situations.

NARCISSUS. [Amaryllidacez.] A very large genus of
showy hardy familiar bulbous-rooted plants, the species of
which are ornamental and desirable spring border flowers.
Under the name of Polyanthus-Narcissus great numbers of
some florists’ varieties are imported annually, like the Hyacinth
and early Tulips; and these may be forced in pots, or bloomed
in water, or planted in the borders. They require in every
respect the same treatment as the Hyacinth. If grown in
pots they may be planted in any rich light soil. If bloomed
in glasses they want a change of water once a week. When
put out in the borders they should be in patches of three,

198 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

put in pretty close to each other, forming a triangle, with one
in front and two behind. A sandy loam is preferable for them.
They require no protection except in very severe weather, and
will bear a good deal of frost without injury. The plant has
grassy or leek-like leaves: the flower-stem comes up in the
centre, and from a sheath at the top bursts on one side the
bunch of flowers, which are white or yellow, with a yellow or
orange cup in the centre. The Jonquil is a species of Nar-
cissus, considerably smaller than the Polyanthus-Narcissus,
and very sweet-scented: there are varieties with both double
and single flowers. There is considerable variety among the
other species of Narcissus, all of which are worth growing as
border flowers.
NASTURTIUM. [Crucifere.] The vulgar name often
given to 7’ropg@olum, instead of the proper one of Indian Cress.
NAVARETTIA. [Polemoniacee.] Dwarf hardy annuals,
closely related to Gilia and Avgochloa, and requiring the same
treatment. They should be sown about the middle of April.
NEJA. [Composite.] Half-hardy sub-shrub, suitable for
summer beds. Light rich soil. Increased by cuttings.
NEMESIA. [Scrophulariacese. Half-hardy annuals or
perennials. Sandy, loamy soil. Increased by seeds or cuttings.
The best is N. floribunda, which flowers white and yellow.
NEMOPHILA. [{Hydrophyllacee.] Hardy annuals. Some
species of great beauty. The best is N. insignis, whose flowers
are very bright blue, with a white eye, and covering the plant
in its season: it is on this account a most beautiful plant for
clumps and beds which form parts of figures. For early
blooming it should be sown in autumn, and protected in cold
frames during winter: it may be sown in the pots or in a
patch. These plants, if potted, and afterwards planted out
im May, will bloom directly ; and others sown in spring, about
March and April, will be ready to furnish bloom as that of
the early ones declines. It is tolerably hardy, for self-sown
plants stand over ordinary winters. N. maculata is another
showy species, but all the rest are only to be grown for the
sake of variety. For beds the seedlings should be put out
four inches apart, and the plants will then present a dense
mass of flowers. The soil should not be too rich, for if the
plants grow rank they become straggling, and flower less

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 199

abundantly. There is no annual so useful as N. insignis if
kept in sixty-sized pots, or even smaller, one in a pot: it
makes a bright speck in any vacant place in a border or bed,
and is never out of place.

NEOTTIA. [Orchidacee.] A genus containing some
hardy perennial as well as tender species. Soil, peat and
loam. Increased by division. N. @stivalis, N. autumnalis,
and N. cernua are worth growing as curiosities.

NEOTTOPTERIS. [Polypodiacez.| Stove ferns of ever-
green habit, of which, however, one species will succeed in a
cool house if not over-watered in winter. Turfy peat. In-
creased by division or by spores. N. vulgaris is also known
as Asplentum nidus.

NEPENTHES. Pircuer Puanr. [Nepenthacee.] A
most extraordinary race of plants, whose peculiarity lies in
the organs called pitchers, from which the plants derive their
name. ‘The plants are shrubby, and the leaves have a most
extraordinary appendage at the end of each, in the form of a
complete pitcher with a lid to it, which opens and shuts at
the pleasure of the plant, if we can imagine a plant to have a
will of its own. ‘This pitcher is partially filled with a liquid
distilled from the plant. ‘The flowers are inconsiderable, and
form no part of their claim as ornamental subjects. They
require the stove, and grow well in turfy peat soil, mixed with
sphagnum, as used for orchids. If not grown too rapidly
they form handsome pyramidal objects. ‘They should not be
often repotted, but strong young plants should be put at once
into pots that will admit of a considerable growth. Many
very noble specimens have been sacrificed by having been
forced too much at the root, and have gone off in conse-
quence. Formerly N. distillatoria was the most striking plant
of this race known in cultivation, but the last few years have
_ added several others which are certainly handsomer. Of these,

N. fafgflesiana, which has very large pitchers, spotted and
blotched with crimson; N. sanguinea, also marked with crim-
son; and N. albo-marginata, which has a band of white wool
round the edge of the pitcher, and is smaller than the others,
are some of the most interesting.

NEPHRODIUM. [Polypodiacee.} A large genus of
ferns, mostly tropical, but comprising a few which thrive in a

200 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

greenhouse. Soil, turfy peat and loam. Increased by division
or by the scattered spores. N. molle, greenhouse evergreen
fern. N. unitum, greenhouse evergreen fern, sometimes called
N. lucens.

NEPHROLEPIS. [Polypodiacez.] Ornamental ever-
green ferns, one or two of which succeed in a greenhouse.
Peat and loam. Division. N. ewaliata, stove. N. tuberosa,
stove.

NERINE,. [Amaryllidacee.] Pretty greenhouse bulbs,
which require the same treatment as Amaryllis. Soil, strong
rich loam. Division of offsets. They must be kept dry when
at rest. NV, Sarniensis is the Guernsey Lily, of which large
quantities of flowering bulbs are annually imported.

NERIUM. OLeanpEr. [Apocynacee.] <A remarkably
showy, though virulent genus of greenhouse evergreen shrubs,
forming noble objects in the conservatory. Although they
flower freely when scarcely a foot high from cuttings, they
will grow ten or fifteen feet high, forming splendid trees,
covered with rose-coloured, or white, or variegated flowers,
which come in bunches at the ends of all the branches; and
the individual flowers of the double-blossomed varieties come
as large as a middling sized Rose, and ten or more ina bunch.
The Oleander may be set down as a neglected plant. Young
shoots three inches long, with a bell-glass over them, strike
freely in sandy compost, a little bottom-heat hastening the
rooting. They should, when rooted, be potted singly in five-
inch pots, and not removed till they have filled the pots with
roots, but nevertheless kept growing: they will then bloom
the first season, almost before they are a foot high, and the
plants will continue to flower every season as they advance in
size. They grow best in a compost of loam and peat, with
about a fourth part well-decayed manure; and if this is too
adhesive, from the nature of the loam used, about a sixth part
of sand should be mixed with it. They require to be placed
in the stove to bring out the blooms well, although they have
been set down as greenhouse plants; as such they have been
ill-treated in almost all establishments, where they may be
seen condemned to associate with a few rusty Orange and
Lemon trees, equally ill-used.

NEW ZEALAND FLAX. See Prormium.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 2901

NICOTIANA. Tosacco. ([Solanacer.] An extensive
genus, the species mostly hardy annuals. The most interest-
ing is the N. tabacum, or Virginian Tobacco, of which several
varieties, all having rose-coloured flowers, are pretty enough
to be introduced sparingly into large miscellaneous flower-
borders: they grow from three to six feet high, according to
the soil and climate. N. Langsdorfjit, with green flowers and
blue anthers, is rather pretty. Of the common annual
species the seeds may be scattered over the borders in April,
and a single plant left here and there where there is room
for it. The Virginian Tobacco must be sown in a warm
frame in April, and treated like a half-hardy annual, being
planted out in May, to produce fine blooming plants. From
the size to which these plants grow, with their ample foliage,
they should always be planted singly. Seeds are produced in
abundance, by which they are increased.

NIEREMBERGIA. [Solanacew.] Pretty half-hardy
herbs, suitable for the flower garden and for small beds.
Sandy loam and peat. Cuttings in sand during summer.
The plants must be wintered in a dry airy greenhouse, with
precaution against damp. They may be planted out in May.
N. gracilis, flowers white and lilac.

NIGELLA. Fereynet Frower, or Devit-in-a-Busn.
[Ranunculacee.| Hardy annuals, requiring only to be sown
in the open border in March, and again in May, and the
plants thinned to three or four inches apart, six or eight being
‘left in a patch. The flowers have a singular form and higlily
curious appearance.

NIGHTSHADE. See Soranvm.

NIPHAHA. [Gesneracese.| Pretty dwarf free-flowering
tuberous-rooted stove perennials, allied to Achimenes. ‘They
may be bloomed in a temperature but slightly warmer than
gat of a greenhouse, the additional warmth being principally

equired at the time of starting the tubers into growth.
They should be grown in flat wide pots, in a compost of
three-fourths leaf-mould to one-fourth loam and sand. During
winter they should be kept quite dry. N. oblonga and N.
rubida flower white.

NIPHOBOLUS. _ [Polypodiaceze.] | Greenhouse _ neat-
srowing creeping simple-leaved ferns. Turfy peat. Divi-

202 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

sion. N. lingua, N. pertusus, and N. rupestris are the prin-
cipal.

NIPPLE CACTUS. See Mammirnarta.

NOLANA. [Nolanaceew.| Pretty annuals of prostrate
trailing habit, with Convolvulus-shaped blossoms. They may
be sown in the open ground in April and May; or an earlier
crop, in pots for planting out, may be sown in March, and
the plants kept in a cold frame till the middle of May. They
will flourish in good light garden soil, and are increased by
seeds.

NOTHOCHLANA. [Polypodiaceew.] Delicate but very
beautiful evergreen ferns, requiring a greenhouse. Soil, sandy
peat. Division. The plants must be carefully preserved
against damp, both at the root and on the leaves: the latter
should not be wetted, nor exposed to currents of air, nor the
desiccation caused by excessively dry air. The scaly fronds
suffer most from damp. NN. distans, N. Eckloniana, N. lanu-
ginosa, N. Marante, N. nivea, N. tenera, are the chief.

NUPHAR. [Nympheacee.] Hardy water plants, with
large floating leaves like those of Nymphea, but having
yellow flowers. The exotic species are worth cultivating.
The culture of them is in all respects the same as that of
Nympheea.

NUTTALLIA. [Rosacez.] Hardy shrub. Loam and peat.
Layers. The plants often called Nuttallia in gardening belong
to Sida. N. cerasiformis, hardy deciduous shrub, flowers white,
in spring.

NYCTERINIA. [Scrophulariacez.} Pretty greenhouse
plants, requiring to be grown in a sandy soil of peat and
loam. Increased by cuttings or seeds. The perennials re-
quire an airy greenhouse and care in watering. The annuals
to be treated as half-hardy annuals.

NYMPHASA. Warer Liry. [Nympheacex.] A family
of beautiful water plants, including some of the most desirable
for cultivation in hardy aquariums. This genus includes
several stove species as well as the hardy ones, of which
latter nearly all have white flowers. The plants require to
be planted in a layer of rich mud at the bottom of the water ;
and so that there is room enough for their floating foliage
they need little other attention. One of the best ways of

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 203

fixing the rhizomes, or root-stocks, is to plant them in a
common wicker basket filled with mud, the basket being
dropped into the water where the plant is required. The
tender kinds have to be planted into large pots or paus,
which are sunk into cisterns of water; and, in order to secure
the blooming of the plants, there ought to be provision for
warming the water in the cisterns by some means or other.
They are increased by dividing the rhizomes. Both hardy
and tender species are worth growing. WN. alba, hardy;
N. nitida, hardy ; N. odorata, hardy; N. pyymea, half hardy ;
N. reniformis, half hardy, all flower white. N. ca@rulea, stove,
flowers blue, and is very fragrant.

OAK. See Quercus.

OBKELISCARIA. [Composite.] Showy hardy perennials.
They require the same treatment as Rudbeckia, to which they
are allied.

OBESIA. See Sraperia.

GQENOTHERA. Evenine Primrose. [Onagraces.] Showy
hardy plants, mostly perennials and biennials, with a few
annuals. The annuals require to be sown in March or April
where they are to flower, and to be thinned when they come
up, or they may be sown in a patch and planted out. Com-
mon garden soil. The biennial and perennial kinds should
be sown in patches, and planted out, when they are large
enough, wherever they are to bloom. The latter grow best
in peaty soil, and especially in situations where they are not
subjected to drought. There is a large number of species.
Most of the old-fashioned annual Cnotheras are now called
Godetia. Ui. macrocarpa, CH. taraxacifolia, and CE. viparia
are the best.

OLEA. Onive. [Oleacee.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs
for the most part. The cultivated Olive is half hardy. Loam
aud peat. Cuttings. O. fragrans, flowers white, very fragrant.
O. ilicifolia is nearly hardy, as well as O. Europea, the olive
of commerce.

OLEANDER. See Nerium.

OLEASTER. See Exmacnus.

OMPHALODES. [Boraginacee.] A genus containing
two favourite plants—the annual Venus’s Navelwort, and the
early-blooming dwarf O. verna, whose pretty little bright blue

204 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

flowers are mistaken by persons not skilled in plants for the
Forget-me-not—a very different thing. Both are of the easiest
culture. The perennial will increase to any extent by di-
vision, and, when once planted, need not be disturbed for
years; for, within moderate limits, the larger the patch of
such diminutive subjects the better. It is very suitable for
rockwork which is not too dry and exposed. The annual
may be sown in the borders towards the end of March, and
again in May for a succession, and requires only good garden
soil.

ONOCLEA. [Polypodiacee.] Hardy ferns. Peat. Di-
vision. O. sensibilis is the chief.

ONONIS. Restuarrow. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee. |
A genus of hardy and half-hardy perennials and annuals.
Some of the sub-shrubby species are suitable for large rock-
work. Sandy loam. Seeds.

ONOSMA. [Boraginacee.] Perennial herbs, mostly
hardy, and many of them pretty subjects for rockwork. The
flowers are tubularly bell-shaped, and in all cases yellow or
yellowish. They grow best on dry and rather sandy soil,
such as exposed rockwork, being very liable to rot off in damp
confined places, and the tenderer ones require protection from
wet in winter. When seeds can be got they make the best
plants: they should be sown about May, either in pots for
subsequent transplantation, or in the situations where they
are to remain. If seeds cannot be had they must be increased
by cuttings of the voung shoots planted in sandy soil, and
placed under a hand-glass.

ONYCHIUM. [Polypodiacee.] Elegant ferns of easy
culture. Turfy peat and loam. Division. O. Japonicum,
greenhouse evergreen fern, is sometimes called O. lucidum.

OPHELIA. ([Gentianacee.] A pretty annual. Peat
border. Seeds, to be sown in heat in April; the young plants
planted out in May. O. purpurascens, flowers purplish.

OPHIOGLOSSUM. Apper’s Toneve. [Ophioglos-
sacee.| Curious hardy plants, related to ferns. Loam.
Division. The common O. vulgatum and the Jersey O. Lusi-
tanicum are worth introducing among hardy ferns.

OPHIOPOGON. [Liliaces.] Hardy and _half-hardy
perennial. Sandy loam and peat. Division.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 205

OPHRYS. [Orchidacee.] Hardy orchids of difficult
culture. The tubercles should be taken up as the plants
decay, and planted in loam with chalk intermixed: neither
the tubercles nor the surface of the soil should be disturbed
after planting.

OPORANTHUS. [Amaryllidacee.] A pretty hardy bulb,
whose yellow Crocus-like flowers are very welcome additions
to the flower-border in autumn. Being dwarf, it is adapted
for the formation of autumn-blooming margins to flower-beds
or grass, the tint of which would contrast well with the yellow
of its flowers. It is quite hardy, and of the easiest culture,
preferring, like most of the Amaryllis family, a good rich
loam, but growing without difficulty in any good garden soil.
It is increased, like other bulbs, most readily by offsets. For
bulb gardens, this being an autumn bloomer, may be con-
sidered quite essential.

OPUNTIA. Inpran Fic Cactus. [Cactacexw.] A curious
family of greenhouse succulent shrubs of the Cactus group,
remarkable from the singular appearance of the broad flattened
oval branches or divisions of the stem growing end to end:
these are variously clothed with clusters of spines, which are
mostly much shorter than those of.the Echinocacti. The
Opuntias are mostly tall or massive-growing plants. O. vul-
garis is nearly hardy, and, together with O. Tuna, often ripens
a crop of agreeable pulpy fruit.

ORANGE. See Cirrus.

ORBEA. See STape.ia.

ORCHIS. [Orchidacexe.] Hardy perennials, like Ophrys,
difficult of culture, and requiring similar treatment.

ORIGANUM. Marsoram. [Lamiacee.} In this genus
of hardy aromatic herbs are included two pretty greenhouse
dwarf shrubs, which are excellent window plants. They in-
crease by cuttings, and grow in sandy loam. 0. dictamnus,
half-hardy sub-shrub, flowers purple. O. Sipyleum, half-hardy
sub-shrub, flowers purple. ;

ORNITHOGALUM. Srar or Bernienem. [Liliacee.]
An extensive genus of bulbous plants, containing about a
score of hardy species, and about twice that number of half-
hardy ones. The flowers are star-like, and, in the majority
of instances, white, often streaked inside or out with green.

-

206 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

They grow readily in rich light loamy soil, the hardy ones
planted out in the open borders or in beds, and the tender
oues potted and kept in a frame or on a shelf in a cool green-
house. The tal’er species, with their long spikes of starry
flowers, are very ornamental. They all increase by means of
offsets, as is the case with other bulbs.

OROBUS. Brrrer Vercu. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.1
An extensive family of hardy perennials, with hardly an
exception. Common light deep garden soil. Division.

OSAGE ORANGE. See Macrura.

OSMUNDA. Frowertne Fern. [Osmundacee.] The
Osmunda regalis, called the Osmund Royal, is one of the
finest of our native ferns. It grows in marshy situations, or
at least where there is a constant supply of moisture. This
fern is seldom seen in cultivation above three or four feet
high ; but in some of its native localities, as, for example, on
the banks of the Irish lakes, it reaches ten or twelve feet
high, and combines with its inherent nobility of aspect a great
degree of elegance and grace. In a less luxuriant state it is
rather rigid than graceful, but in any healthy condition
beautiful. This differs from other ferns in not having its
fructification scattered on the back of the fronds, but col-
lected together, and forming the entire upper part. To grow
them well they must have peaty soil and plenty of moisture.
O. cinnamomea, O. gracilis, O. interrupta, O. regalis, and O.
spectabilis are all cultivated.

OXALIS. Woop Sorret. [Oxalidacee.] A very ex-
tensive, a very varied, and a very ornamental genus. The
majority of the species are bulbs from the Cape of Good Hope
and South America, and well suited for pot culture in the
greenhouse: most of these, however, will grow in a warm
dry sheltered border in the flower garden, especially if pro-
tected during winter by a covering of some dry open material,
such as sawdust or half-decayed leaves. The best plan of all
is to plant them out in a bed made up in a frame or pit, and
covered with glass. They thrive in equal parts of peat, loam,
and leaf-mould. Another bulbous group is quite hardy:
these need only to be planted out in a bed. and allowed to
grow as they please for several years. The soil should
contain some proportion of peat and leaf-soil. The fleshy

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 207

tap- roots of O. Deppet are cultivated as a delicate esculent ;

and the tubers of O. crenata are also sometimes grown for the
‘same. purpose, the leaves and stems of this latter kind
forming a substitute for rhubarb stalks and sorrel in domestic
cookery. When cultivated for their produce they must have
‘a very rich soil. Of the ornamental kinds there are some
‘which have short fleshy stems, which just serve to elevate a
‘dense tuft of leaves and blossoms above the soil. O. carnosa,

0. floribunda, and O. lasiandra are very pretty subjects of
‘this class. Of these O. floribunda has been proved a valuable
flower-garden plant, incessantly blooming through the sum-
‘mer. These should have a free open peaty soil, whether
yplanted in pots or in beds; and they may be wintered in a
cool greenhouse or dry frame. There are some hardy annual
species, and some few stove shrubs. The bulbous kinds are
‘increased from the offsets; the fleshy-stemmed kinds by
division; the annuals by seeds; and the shrubby kinds by
cuttings. O. Bowiei, flowers pink, in spring.

OX-EYE. See BuPHTHALMUM.

OX-LIP. See Primuta.
~ OXYCOCCUS. Cranserry. ([Ericacee.} Trailing
evergreen shrubs, requiring marshy peat soil. Increased by
layering and division.

OXYLOBIUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionaceez.] A genus
of very ornamental evergreen greenhouse shrubs. They may
be increased by cuttings, which strike in an inch of sand
upon a pot of the. ordinary soil made sandy, the bottom of the
cutting just to reach the soil: they should have slight bottom
heat, and be covered with a bell-glass. The plants seed
rather freely, and may be raised from the seed sown as soon
as it is ripe in wide-mouthed pots, and placed in the green-
house. When up they may be pricked out, and when large
enough potted, and changed from small to larger ones as the
former fill with roots. The compost for them should be peat,
loam, and sand, in the proportions of three parts of the first
‘to one of each of the latter. To make handsome plants they
‘should not grow too fast. They are just the kind of plant that
would hardly be known if, instead of regular growth in the
soil we have mentioned, they were placed in more exciting
‘soil and a little artificial heat. O. capitatum, flowers yellow.

208 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

O. obovatum, flowers red and yellow. O. retusum, flowers
orange yellow.

PAONIA. Peony. [Ranunculacee.] Very showy
hardy perennials of large growth. The shrubby kinds,
known as Tree Peonies, are now called Moutan. (See
Movran.) Theyare all very beautiful, the colours comprising
white, blush, pink, scarlet, rose, crimson, and in some cases
white delicately tinted with rose. The single-flowered Peonies
are like large-flowered Poppies. They grow in rich loamy
soil, and are propagated readily by division.

PALMA CHRISTI. See Ricinus.

PANCRATIUM. [Amaryllidacee. | A considerable
genus of bulbous plants, the majority of which require a
stove. They have the habit of Amaryllis and Crinum, and
require the same management throughont, except as to tem-
perature. Compost, three-parts turfy loam, one part turfy
peat, and one part rotted cowdung. They should be potted
with the bulb half covered with the soil, and should be placed
in the stove or a warm greenhouse, where they want no other
care than a little water until they flower, and after that
none till they begin to grow again for the next season. The
hardy ones should be planted on a south border in a dry
warm soil. Propagated by offsets or by seeds.

PANSY. See also Vioxa.

PAPAVER. Poppy. [Papaveracew.] A genus of hardy
plants, containing many weedy and some showy species: it
comprises perennials, biennials, and aunuals, Of the latter
the double-flowered varieties, sometimes known as Carnation
and Picotee Poppies, are the most worthy of cultivation, and
these are really gay as well as stately plants; besides which,
if colours have any charm in a garden, it is almost impossible
to enumerate the different tints that a pinch of good seed
will produce. These annual kinds will overrun a garden if
the pods of seed are not removed before ripening. For
mixed or shrubbery borders this may be no objection, as
plants can be left where there is space for them, and the rest
hoed up; but in the more neatly-kept parts of a garden this
~ scattering of the seed should be prevented, and a supply of
plants raised by special sowing. The seeds may be sown in
March, and again in April, in patches where they are to

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN 209

grow, and thinned out to three or four strong plants in a
patch ; or, if more convenient, they may be sown thinly in
any open place out of the way, and when large enough
planted in the borders and beds where they are wanted.
Any plants which show flowers at all secondary in quality
should be pulled up immediately, and allow none to be left in
the ground but very double and very pretty ones: the seed
from these, or from the most beautiful of them, will give good
varieties another year. ‘The perennials want no culture but
to be planted in good garden soil, and left undisturbed: they
increase by seeds or by division.

PARDANTHUS. [Iridacee.] Hardy or half-hardy
perennials, requiring a somewhat sheltered situation, and
dry or well-draimed soil; in other respects assimilating in
cultivation with Iris.

PARIS. [Melanthacesw.] Curious hardy perennials. Peat
and loam. Division.

PARNASSIA. ([Hypericacee.] Pretty dwarf hardy
herbaceous perennials. Damp peaty soil. Division or
seeds. P. asarifolia, P. Caroliniana, P. palustris, all flower
white.

PARSONIA. [Apocynacee.] Greenhouse or stove climb-
‘ing shrubs. Soil, peat and loam. Cuttings.

PASCALIA. [Composite.] Hardy perennial. Common
soil. Dryish situation. Division.

PASSIFLORA. Passton-rnowrerR. [Passifloracee.| An
extensive genus of stove, greenhouse, and half-hardy climbers,
containing many very beautiful species. P. c@rulea is con-
sidered hardy, as it will succeed against a wall in sheltered
situations, and under such conditions may be considered deci-
duous, as the younger leafy parts are more or less destroyed
by frost Some of the stove and greenhouse kinds are very
handsome. There are some which bear fruits that are edible,
and are said to be fragrant, cooling, and pleasant; but, how-
ever interesting they may be as curiosities, other fruits must
be scarce to render these of any value. The tender sorts are
best planted in a stove or warm conservatory, and allowed to
grow along the rafters; and the hardy sorts should be planted
against a south wall or front of a house. ‘They should all be
grown in a mixture of loam, peat, and sand. Some of the

P

210 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

smaller sorts will flower in pots; but they want plenty of
trellis, as they only flower when the plant has made con-
siderable growth. All strike freely from cuttings in sand with
bottom heat, and when well rooted should be potted into small
pots, which must be changed as they advance. They require
a moderately rich soil to bring them to a vigorous and finely-
bloomed condition, and when grown in pots weak liquid
manure is very beneficial to them during their blooming
period. The following are the best :—P. c@rulea, half-hardy
climbing shrub, flowers white and blue. P. c@rulea racemosa,
flowers reddish purple. P. edulis, stove climbing shrub,
flowers whitish. P. kermesina, stove climbing shrub, flowers
crimson. P. Loudonii, stove climbing shrub, flowers scarlet.
P. quadrangularis, stove climbing shrub, flowers brown, red,
and green. Of numerous other fine stove species the best
are P. alata, P. Billottii, P. Middletoniana, and P. onychina.
There are many curious minute-flowered species with green
blossoms.

PATERSONIA. [Iridacee.] Greenhouse herbaceous
perennials. Peat and loam. Seeds or division. All the
species have blue or bluish, showy but fugitive flowers.

PAULOWNIA. [Scrophulariacee.] A fine deciduous
tree, allied to Catalpa, scarcely hardy in England except in
the most favoured spots, in consequence of its producing very
‘robust shoots, which English summers seldom ripen. Its
large bunches of trumpet-shaped purplish flowers are very
handsome. It should be planted in a dry soil, and in warm
situations, where its vigorous shoots would be well ripened
annually, and is increased by layers. The only one cultivated
is P. imperialis, hardy tree, flowers purplish. |.

PAVIA. [Sapindacee.] A small group of the Horse-
chestnut family, consisting of handsome flowering trees of the
smaller class. They grow in any deep lightish garden soil,
and are usually increased by grafting on the common Horse-
chestnut or by layers.

PEACH. See PErsica. ’

PEDICULARIS. Lovsreworr. [Scrophulariacee.] Hardy
and half-hardy perennials, often very handsome, but not very
cultivable. Damp peaty soil. Seeds. Many species have
been introduced, but they are speedily lost.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. Q11

PELARGONIUM. Srorx’s Bits. [Geraniacee.] These
are commonly known as Geraniums, but botanists distinguish
between Pelargoniums and Geraniums, the former having
irfegular flowers (petals not all alike in form, &c.) and ten
stamens, the latter regular flowers (petals alike in size, form,
&c.) and five stamens. This arrangement brings the popular
flowers now so much grown, and familiarly known as Gera-
niums, into Pelargonium. The varieties now grown have
sprung, by a many years’ course of hybridisation and cross-
breeding, from a race of shrubby and tuberous-rooted kinds
which are natives of the Cape of Good Hope. The Pelar-
gonium, a universal favourite, is a greenhouse plant, growing
well in a soil composed of one-half loam of rotted turves, one-
fourth turfy peat, and one-fourth well-decomposed horse or
cowdung, rotted into mould. New varieties are raised from
seed, and the established favourite sorts are propagated by
cuttings. The seed is sown as soon as ripe, and the young
plants, when large enough to handle, may be pricked out four
or five in a pot, and when they have grown larger they may
be separated, and put one ina three-inch pot. They should
be nursed on in a greenhouse during the summer and autumn,
and the stronger ones may be transferred, when well rooted,
into five-inch pots, the others remaining in the smaller size.
They must be wintered on a shelf of the greenhouse, where
they may stand very near the glass, and in an open and airy
position. Ina house where such seedlings are wintered the
temperature must be kept comfortable, that is, warmish and
dryish during that season. If this accommodation cannot be
given it is better to sow in spring, although a season may
often be lost. If sown in spring all the plants should bloom
the next year. To propagate from cuttings, the trimmings of
the plants, which are cut down close after blooming about
July, are used. The plants are to be cut down within an eye
or two of the last pruning, so as to form a proper skeleton for
growing into a good-shaped shrubby plant the next year. The
pieces cut off will make plants. Cut the lower end clean off
close below a joint, which latter is to be put in the ground,
and another joint or two be left above the surface. The
cuttings will strike in the open garden, merely covered with
a hand-glass and occasionally watered: a light compost is

219 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

preferable for them. When they are struck they may be
potted singly in three-inch or five-inch pots, which will serve
them till spring. when they must be shifted into larger ones.
"They may be grown out of doors until September, but will
then require to be housed. A greenhouse or a garden frame
will equally suit them, provided the frost is not allowed to
enter, and they are preserved from damping: the less heat
and the more air a Pelargonium plant has the better, so that
it be not frosted. The trade catalogue of Dobson and Co.
gives hundreds of varieties, comprising all the best.

PENTAS. ([Cinchonacee.] Pretty free-flowering soft-
wooded stove plants. They should be raised annually from
cuttings, which root readily in a hotbed, and the young plauts
must be stopped frequently until a bushy plant is formed,
when they may be allowed to grow away for flowers, which
will be continued in succession for a long time if the plants
have nourishment enough to support them. Cuttings rooted
in spring and autumn will almost keep up a constant succes-
sion of flowers. Soil,a mixture of loam, peat, and leaf-mould.
The tips of the shoots must not be removed when the plants
are required to produce their blossoms. P. carnea is the
best.

PENTHORUM. ([Crassulacez.] Hardy succulent-leaved
perennials. Common soil. Increased by division.

PENTLANDIA. [Amaryllidacee.} Handsome- flowered
bulbs, requiring to be grown in a frame or cool greenhouse,
and to have rich loamy soil, with a season of rest. Seeds or
offsets. P. miniaia, flowers scarlet. There are two varieties
— lacunosa and Sulivanica— which differ in the period of
flowering.

PENTSTEMON. [Scrophulariacee.] <A large genus of
hardy or half-hardy herbaceous perennials, sometimes sub-
shrubby, among the most ornamental of summer-flowering
plants. The best kinds for the flower garden are the varieties
of P. gentianoides, which is sub-shrubby, propagates freely by
cuttings, and blooms most profusely from August onwards
till severe frost occurs. It should be wintered in cold frames,
and plauted out in spring. They may all. be propagated by
seeds or cuttings, less freely by division, according to their
peculiar habits of growth, and require to be planted in a

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 213

moderately rich light loamy soil to attain their full beauty,
which is very considerable. Most of those called half-hardy
perennials, which are not sub-shrubby, survive over winters
in favourable situations, and protected against excessive wet.
It is, however, safer to shelter them in cold frames. They
also survive better where there is a keen pure air. The
varieties are numerous.

PERESKIA. [Cactacee.] A small genus of cactaceous
shrubs, having woody spiny stems, and flat fleshy leaves. The
P. aculeata, or Barbadoes Gooseberry, grows with long trail-
ing branches, and is often employed as a stock on which
Cacti are grafted. When these long stems are trained to the
rafters of a plant stove, and are worked with branches of the
flowering Cacti, especially the small drooping Hpiphyllun
truncatum and its varieties, it has a very charming effect.
For the formation of standard Cactuses the Pereskia is not so
good a stock as some of the stouter Cereuses, on account of
its wiry stems. Their treatment is the same as that of Cacti.

PERILLA. [Lamiacee.] Half-hardy annuals. Light
garden soil. Seeds. P. Nankinensis has leaves coloured
purple.

PERIPLOCA. [Asclepiadacee.] Hardy deciduous twiners.
Common soil. Layers and cuttings. P. angustifolia, flowers
purplish. P. Greca, flowers brown. — + :

PERIWINKLE. See Vinca.

PERNETTYA. /[Ericacee.] Pretty hardy evergreen
shrubs. Peat. Seeds and layers. P. angustifolia, P. ciliata,
and P. mucronata, flower white.

PERSICA. Pracu. {Amygdalacee.] This genus, well
known from its fruits, contains also some beautiful flowering
shrubs. Good garden soil. Propagated by budding. See
also AMYGDALUS.

PERSICARIA. See Poiyconum.

PERUVIAN DAFFODIL. See Ismene.

PETUNIA. [Solanacez.| Showy soft-stemmed shrubby
perennials, closely allied to Nierembergia. The garden Petu-
nias have sprung from P. nyctaginiflora and P. violacea, the
latter, in its original form, one of the richest of all plants for
bedding out in the flower garden, owing to its brilliant colour.
There are, however, few families in which cultivation has

914 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

effected such a revolution as in this; for from the flimsy
flowers of the old white, and the pointed blossoms of the old
purple, have been produced flowers of circular outline, with

thick corollas and fluctuating beautiful colours. Petunias.

are propagated either by seed or cuttings. Seeds may be
sown in March on a hotbed, and the plants treated as half-
hardy annuals. Cuttings strike freely placed in a frame with
bottom heat: they should be planted in March and April,
being obtained from old plants placed in heat, and from the
tops of the earlier-planted cuttings, if a supply of young
plants was not provided the previous autumn. The young
plants require to be separately potted, hardened in a cold
frame, and planted out in May, when the danger of frost is
past. A few plants should be kept in pots, rather stunted,
for preservation through the winter, in order to supply cuttings
in spring; or young plants may be struck in August, and well
hardened, and kept in the greenhouse on an airy shelf through
the winter: such plants will, if vigorous and healthy, bloom
earlier than spring cuttings. For this reason a supply, more
or less abundant, should always be struck at the end of the
summer, to keep over for planting out in spring. Many
varieties are grown yearly.

PHACA. ([Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Hardy herba-
ceous perennials. Sandy loam. Seeds or division.

PHACELIA. [Hydrophyllacee.] Pretty annuals of the
easiest culture in the open ground, the seeds being sown in
March and April. There are some unimportant perennials.

PHADRANASSA. [Amaryllidaceze.] A showy genus
of greenhouse bulbous plants, requiring the treatment of
Phycella; that is, strong rich loamy soil, and multiplied by
offsets from the bulbs.

PHALANGIUM. {[Liliacew.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials, with pretty blossoms. Common soil. Division.

PHALARIS. [Graminee.} Hardy annuals. Common
soil. Seeds.

PHALOCALLIS. See Cypetra.

PHARBITIS. Gay-sine. [Convolvulacee.} Annual
and perennial twiners of graceful habit, with extremely gay
flowers. Some of the species are tender; others may be
treated as half-hardy annuals. The genus contains the well-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. Q15

known Convolvulus major, the plants commonly grown under
that name including the varieties of P. hispida, P. nil, P.
hederacea, and perhaps some others. The colours of the Con-
volvulus major are varied: deep purple, violet, light blue,
white, pale rose, deep rose crimson, and blue and white
striped. This Convolvulus should be sown in April in
patches, round a post or pillar, or at the foot of a stump of a
tree, or where it can be provided with tall branchy stakes on
which to twine, for the plant will grow ten feet high, and in
season be covered with bloom. It is, however, characteristic of
the plant to close its flowers during rains or in very cloudy
weather, and at the approach of night. The varieties seed
freely ; but, as the seeds soon shed after ripening, a good look-
out must be kept for the pods. It may also be sown in pots
in March, and kept in frames till May, and then planted out.
They like a light rich soil. The other annual species require
exactly the same management. A strong-growing somewhat
shrubby species, P. Learii, is too handsome to be here
omitted, though it requires a stove or warm greenhouse. It
is a plant which grows and flowers well, provided it has room
to extend its branches, and nourishment to support them: it
likes a strongish rich loamy compost.

PHASEOLUS. Kinney Bean. [Leguminose, § Papilio-
naceee.| Twining plants, some annual and hardy, others
require stove heat. P. multiflorus, the well-known Scarlet-
runuer Bean, deserves notice as a flower-garden plant from
its showy appearance when in blossom. It is a plant weil
adapted for covering summer-houses and temporary trellises,
and is more or less ornamental from June to October. The
seeds should be sown where the plants are required in the
month of March.

PHEASANT’S EYE. See Aponis.

PHILADELPHUS. Mock Oranes, or Syrinea. [Phila-
delphacexw.] Ornamental deciduous flowering shrubs. Con-
fusion sometimes arises from the fact that the common name
of this shrub, Syringa, is the same word as the botanical
name of the Lilac tree; and as both are shrubs, often intro-
duced into gardens and shrubberies from their free-flowering
qualities, the confusion is attended with inconvenience. The
plants are widely different. The Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), as

216 GLENNY 8 HANDBOOK

is well known, bears numerous small flowers in clusters
shaped something like an erect bunch of grapes. The Syringa,
or Mock Orange (Philadelphus), on the other hand, bears its
flowers, which are large, and composed of distinct petals,
either singly or very few together; and they are called Mock
Orauge from the considerable resemblance between their
blossoms and those of the Orange tree. Most of the species
have a strong, but not very agreeable scent. Their leaves,
moreover, have a taste similar to that of cucumbers. They
are hardy shrubs, requiring no particular culture, but growing
in ordinary garden soil where it is not too damp, and are
increased either by means of layers, of cuttings, or of suckers.
The flowers of all are white, with a bunch of yellow stamens
in the centre. Nearly all are worth planting. The double
flowering is distinct and handsome.

PHILESIA. [Smilacee.] Beautiful hardy or half-hardy
evergreen shrubs. Peat soil. Cuttings. P. buaifolia, half-
hardy evergreen shrub, flowers large rose crimson, and is very
pretty.

PHILLYREA. [Oleacee.] Desirable evergreen shrubs,
valuable for their foliage and habit, the flowers being white
and insignificant. Good garden soil. Layers or cuttings
under a hand-light. OrnamentaL Evercreens.—P. augusti-
jolia, P. levis, P. latifolia, P. ligustrifolia, P. media, P.
oleefolia.

PHILOTHECA. [Rutacex.] Beautiful greenhouse ever-
green shrubs. Sandy peat. Cuttings in sand under a bell-
glass. The only one of any account is P. australis, flowers
pink.

PHLEBODIUM. [Polypodiacee.] Evergreen ferns,
mostly requiring a stove. P. aurewm, a fine species, grows,
though less vigorously, in a greenhouse from which frost and
cu:.ents of air are excluded. Turfy peat. Division.

PHLOMIS. [Lamiaceew.] Hardy shrubs and herbaceous
plants. Dry loamy soil. Division, seeds, or, for the shrubby
sorts, cuttings.

PHLOX. [Polemoniacee.} Beautiful hardy perennials
for the most part. The seedling varieties are numerous ; some
tall, others remarkably dwarf, and varying in colour from
clear white to pink, lilac, and purple, as well as striped.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 217

They require arranging according to their heights, as well as
according to their blooming season, when grown in collections,
for some are early, others very late. Every year produces
novelties, but many of the varieties are similar; consequently
a few showy and strikingly different sorts should be selected,
and these are very desirable in a flower garden. In choosing
Phloxes those which are dwarf and most abundantly bloomed,
with individual flowers large and quite circular, should be
selected. They grow well in any good light garden soil if the
situation is not too dry in summer, but thrive better in beds
of peat soil. In sandy loam, enriched with equal parts leaf-
mould, they also grow very luxuriantly. If in beds by them-
selves, and the plants are small, they require to be planted
about a foot apart. They are propagated by parting the root,
and may be raised from seed: the former perpetuates any
approved variety, the latter gives us a chance of obtaining
new ones. The established sorts are propagated by dividing
the roots, and the plants should be allowed to remain two or
three seasons, for they are the better for spreading out a
little. New varieties are obtained from seed, which should
be sown about May, and the young plants planted in rows
in a nicely prepared bed. In the next season when they
bloom the best are to be selected for special culture: the
others serve as good border flowers. The dwarf trailing sorts
are very beautiful for rockwork not too much exposed to
drought.

PB fy ee an annual species, is one of the greatest
acquisitions of late years to the list of popular flowers, and
many varieties of it have been raised, deserving all the pains
that can be taken with them for the border, and forming also
the most showy of flowering plants for pots during summer.
The colours vary a good deal, and there is no dependence on
any seed bringing plants quite similar in colour to the pareut ;
but the general form of the plant, and its pretty and abundant
blooming habit, are maintained. The seed should be sown in
gentle heat in March or April, and as soon as the plants are
large enough to handle they are to be pricked out an inch
apart in wide-mouthed pots, where, for economy of space, they
may remain for three or four weeks, and may be kept in the
greenhouse or in a frame. When they have grown so as

218 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

almost to touch one another they may be potted separately
in pots three inches across, and placed under a garden light,
where, if need be, they can be covered against frost. Here
they may remain with all the air that can be given in mild
days until their roots fill the pots, when they must be removed
to five-inch pots, changing them without breaking the balls of
earth. They may be replaced in the frame, unless the
chances of frost have gone by, in which case the pots may be
placed in the open air. By giving them all the air possible
the plants are kept from being drawn up tall and weak. They
may either be allowed to bloom in these pots, or be shifted
once more, whichever is preferred: those which indicate fine
growth may be worth another change. They will flower well
in the greenhouse, and form some of the prettiest objects
among potted annuals. They do well in the flower garden,
too, in nice sheltered situations, if planted out in beds of rich
light earth towards the end of May. .

PHGiNIX. Date Patm. [Palmacee.] Palms. Good
loam. Seeds, which should be reared in heat. P. dactyli-
fera, the only one which will thrive in a greenhouse, is orna-
mental in habit.

PHOSNOCOMA. [Composite.}] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs, requiring the treatment of Helichrysum. Sandy peat.
Cuttings in sand under a bell-glass. P. prolifera, flowers
crimson.

PHORMIUM. New Zearanp Friax. [Liliacee.] Hardy
herbaceous perennial. Loam. Division. P. tenagx is orna-
mental in foliage and habit.

PHOTINIA. ([Pomacee.] Fine-foliaged hardy ever-
greens for a wall. Sandy loam. Budding on the Hawthorn.
P. arbutifolia, P. dubia, P. integrifolia, and P. serrulata are
the principal.

PHYCELLA. [Amaryllidacee.] Beautiful greenhouse
bulbs, allied to Habranthus, most of them hardy enough to
grow in a frame or pit, or in a warm dry border, slightly pro-
tected. Soil, strong rich loam. The general treatment of
Amaryllis is adapted to them. Propagated by offsets or by
seeds.

PHYLICA. [Rhamnacee.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.
Peat and loam. Cuttings in sand under bell-glasses.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 219

PHYLLOCLADUS. [Taxacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
trees. Loam. Cuttings of mature shoots in sand under a
glass. LP. rhomboidalis, and P. trichomanoides.

PHYLLODOCE. [ Evicacee. | Pretty little shrubs,
allied to Dabcecia and Menziesia, and requiring the same
treatment. Peat. Layers.

PHYSALIS. Winter Coerry. [Solanacee.} A genus
containing a. hardy perennial, ornamental in autumn on
account of its orange-coloured berries. Common soil.
Division. P. Alkekengi, which flowers white, is the prin-
cipal one cultivated.

PHYSOLOBIUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Green-
house evergreen climbers, allied to Kennedya. Peat and
loam. Cuttings and seeds. The best are P. carinatum,
flowers scarlet; P. Stirlingii, flowers scarlet.

PHYSOSTEGIA. [Lamiacew.| Fine hardy perennials.
They require the same treatment as Dracocephalum, and may
be propagated in the same way, both being also increased
when requisite by seeds sown in May or June, to produce
blooming plants for the following year. P. imbricata, flowers
pale rose purple. LP. speciosa, flowers rose pink. P. Vir-
gintana, flowers red or white.

PHYTEUMA. [Campanulacee.] Handsome hardy peren-
nials, of easy culture in a dtyish situation, and in good garden
soil. ‘There are about a score of species. They are many of
them suitable for rockwork, and may be multiplied either by
seeds or by division.

PICEA. Sitver Fir. ([Conifere.] Fine hardy ever-
green trees. Good stiff soil. Seeds, or the rarer sorts by
grafting, &c. The best are P. amabilis, P. balsamea, P.
Cephalonica, P. grandis, P. nobilis, P. Nordmanniana, P.
pectinata, P. Webbeana.

PILEWORT. Ficarta.

PIMELEA. [Thymelacee.] Pretty greenhouse ever-
green shrubs, including some of the more ornamental objects
of modern culture. They are plants of a dense-branching
habit, with slender foliage, and bearing at the tips of the
branches close heads of blossoms, which, coming all over the
plants, are very conspicuous. They require some care in their
management. The proper soil for them is a mixture of three

220 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

parts sandy fibry peat soil to one of light loam, rendered a
little sandy, and more especially so for the young plants.
They are raised by cuttings in sand under bell- glasses, or
sometimes by grafting. As soon as they are separately
established in little ‘pots they must be topped, and this
topping must be continued as often as new shoots of two or
three inches long are pushed forth, until a thick dense bush
is produced; then it may be allowed to flower, and it will
regulate its own growth for the most part. The greenhouse,
with plenty of air and a moderate degree of shade in hot
sunny weather, is the place for them; and this, from June
till August inclusive, may advantageously be exchanged for a
cold frame, elevated so that there is a circulation of air
beneath, and provided with sashes to be put on, but not
closed up, during continued and heavy rains, and also in the
middle of hot days, and then with a shading over them.
Pimeleas are easily killed by neglect of watering in drying
weather, and not less easily by over-watering in gloomy
weather or in winter. The best are P. decussata, flowers
pink. P. Hendersoni, flowers deep rose pink. P. linifolia,
flowers white. P. Nieppergiana, flowers white. P. spectabilis,
flowers flesh-coloured. |

PIMPERNEL. See Anacatuis.

PINK. See Drantavs.

PINUS. Prxz Tres. [Conifere.] Fine hardy evergreen
trees. Good light soil. Seeds, or the rarer sorts by grafting.
The principal are P. Jeffryana, P. monticola, P. cembra, P.
excelsa, P. Lambertiana, P. laricio, P. Lindleyana, P. pinaster,
P. pinea, P. ponderosa, P. Sabiniana, P. strobus, and P. Ben-
thamiana. ‘There are numerous other very striking species
in cultivation.

PITCHER PLANT. See NepenruHes.

PITTOSPORUM. [Pittosporaceee.| Greenhouse ever-
sreen shrubs, more remarkable for their evergreen foliage
than for the attractiveness of their blossoms, which are small,
and mostly white or straw-coloured. P. Tobira stands against
a wall in the climate of London. They should be potted into
a compost of peat and loam, and increase by cuttings or by
seeds. The best two are P. flavum, flowers "yellow; and P.
undulatum, flowers white.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 221

PLAGIOLOBIUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee. |
Greenhouse evergreen shrubs, with purple flowers. Sandy,
fibry peat. Cuttings in sand under a bell-glass.

PLANTAIN TREE. See Mousa.

PLANTIA. [Iridacee.] Greenhouse bulb. Sandy loam.
Offsets or seeds. P. flava, flowers yellow.

PLATYCODON. [Campanulacee.| Very beautiful half-
hardy perennials, with fleshy roots, which are liable to suffer
from excess of damp. Sandy loam, well enriched for the
mature plants. Propagated most favourably by seeds. P.
Chinense is the ouly one we cultivate: the colours vary from
white to all the shades of blue.

PLATYLOBIUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionaces.] Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Fibry peat, with a little sandy
loam. Cuttings in sand under a bell-glass, or seeds. P. for-
mosum and P. triangulare flower yellow.

PLATYLOMA. [Polypodiacez.] Greenhouse or half-hardy
evergreen ferns. Turfy loam and peat. Division. JP. atro-
purpurea, half hardy; P. Brownii, P. calomelanos, P. cordata,
P. falcata, P. rotundifolia, are the chief varieties.

PLATYSTEMON. ([Papaveracee.| Pretty annuals of
prostrate habit: they like a cool situation and a peaty soil,
but will grow in any rich light earth. Sow about the middle
of April. P. Californicum, flowers sulphur yellow.

PLATYSTIGMA. ([Papaveracee.j Half-hardy peren-
nials, allied to Platystemon. Light soil. Seeds or division.
P. lineare, yellow.

PLEROMA. [Melastomacex.] Beautiful stove shrubs,
closely allied to Melastoma. P. elegans is a beautiful species,
requiring a temperature intermediate between a stove and
a greenhouse, but may be grown very well in a greenhouse
if carefully sheltered in the colder parts of the year, and
under such treatment bears much richer-coloured flowers than
in a higher temperature. Soil, peat and loam. Cuttings.

PLUM. See Prunus. ;

PLUMBAGO. Lxapwort. [Plumbaginacee.] Pretty
plants, with flowers somewhat like those of the Phlox. The
majority are shrubs. Some few are herbaceous, among which
is P. Larpente, which is hardy, of dwarf compact. habit, and
suitable for rockwork. P. Capensis is a desirable greenhouse

222 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

shrub, which is most frequently grown too fast, and is there-
fore generally seen as a rambling plant. Soil, two-thirds
loam and one-third peat. The objec t should be to keep the
plant dwarf and bushy ; it is sure to grow long enough after
all the pains taken on it. Cuttings - may be struck in sandy
soil with or without bottom heat, covering them with a bell-
glass after inserting them. When rooted pot them singly in
three- inch pots, and as soon as they fairly start into erowth
take off the tops to encourage the lateral shoots: when they
fill their small pots with the roots remove them to larger
ones. By continually checking any of the branches that
ramble out of form the plant can be grown a very pretty
object. Some of the stove species are desirable.

PODALYRIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionaceew.] Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Turfy peat and sandy ope Cut-
tings in sand under glass, or seeds.

PODANTHES. “See STAPELTA.

PODOCARPUS. [Taxaces.] Half-hardy evergreen shrubs,
or trees rather, suitable for a large winter garden. Loam.
Cuttings of ripe shoots in sand under glass.

PODOLEPIS. (Composite. ] ] Pretty half-hardy annuals.
The seeds may be sown in pots or on a mild hotbed in March,
and planted out into sheltered situations in May for early
blooming. <A later crop may be had by sowing in the open
ground in April, and a still further succession by sowing in
May. The plants must be well thinned: they grow a foot or
upwards in height in rich light garden soil. P. chrysantha,
yellow, and P. gracilis, flowers rose or white, are the best.

PODOLOBIUM. [Leguminose, § Papilionacez.}| Showy
greenhouse evergreen shrubs, with holly-like leaves and pea-
like flowers. They may be managed as Dillwynia. P. hetero-
phyllum. flowers yellow. P. staurophyllum, flowers orange
yellow. P. trilobatum, flowers orange yellow.

PODOTHECA. [Composite. ] Annuals of no sreat beauty.
. They may be sown in the open borders in Mar ch or April.

POINCIANA. Frower Fencr. [Leguminose, § Cesal-
piniee.| Fine shrubs, mostly tender. P. Gulliesii, from
Mendoza, is, however, hardy enough for a wall, and flowers
freely in the climate of London on a west aspect. Sandy
loam and peat. Cuttings in sand in heat.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. Q25

POINSETTIA. [Enphorbiacee.] Stove shrubs, whose
flowers are insignificant ; but the bracts, which spread round
‘the base of the head of proper though trifling flowers, as if
they were part of the flower itself, are splendid. They grow
well in two-thirds loam, with one-third peat or leaf. mould; to
which sand must be added. Cuttings of two joints, one under
and one above the surface, soon strike root in bottom heat;
they must then be potted into moderately small pots, say
forty-eights, or five-inch ones, and be grown in the stove,
being shifted from time to time as they fill the pots with
fibres, and freely supplied with water when in full growth.
When the plants have done flowering they should be kept
nearly dry till spring, and then may be cut down to within
two or three eyes of the ground, and the shoots cut off used
for increase. Single eyes—an inch of wood with the joint in
the middle—planted round the edge of a pot, and the pot
plunged in a gentle bottom heat, will root, and form young
plants, which, when large enough, must be potted singly and
grown as cuttings. The plants may be had in bloom at any
period, according to the time when they are started into
growth. If started in spring, not too early, and grown
slowly on, they come into flower in autumn or the early part
of winter, and last a long time. There is but one species
cultivated, P. pulcherrima, in which the large leaf-like bracts
are of a most brilliant scarlet; but there is a variety called
albida, in which the bracts are of a yellowish white or cream
colour.

POIVREA. [Combretacer.] Stove evergreen climbers,
related to Combretum, and requiring the same treatment.
They are very handsome plants. Increased by cuttings planted
in sand, and placed where there is a slight bottom heat. Soil,
peat and loam, with sand. _

POLEMONIUM. Greex Vacerian. [Polemoniacee. |
Ornamental hardy perennials of easy culture, growing readily
in ordinary good garden soil, and increased by division of the
plant, and generally very freely by seeds, which should be
sown in June to produce flowering plants for the next

ear.

POLIANTHES. Turerosr. [Liliacee.} Greenhouse
bulbs, annually imported from Italy. Soil, a rich sandy

224 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

loam. Increased by offsets. .When in growth they are
benefited by warmth at the root.

POLYANTHUS. See Primuta.

POLYGALA. Mirxworr. [Polygalacee.] An extensive
genus, containing about an equal number of greenhouse
shrubs, hardy perennials, and hardy annuals. The former
are the most important in an ornamental point of view, con-
sisting of free-flowering evergreen shrubs. They are raised
from seeds and cuttings. The former should be sown in the
spring, and started in a hotbed; then inured to the warmest
part of the greenhouse by covering them with a bell-glass for
the first day, tilting it a little the second, and taking it off
the third. When large enough they may be potted singly
in three-inch pots, and changed to larger ones as these fill
with roots. Cuttings may be struck in sand under a bell-
glass with a little bottom heat, the glasses being wiped every
day: when rooted they are to be treated like the seedlings.
The best soil is turfy loam two parts, and peat one part.
The hardy kinds, with the exception of P. chamebuaus, a
very dwarf tufted evergreen shrub, well suited for planting,
with other small subjects, near the edge of a clump of
American plants, are of little importance in a garden. P.
cordifolia, flowers purple. P. Dalmaisiana, flowers purple.
P. myrtifolia, flowers purple. The variety grandiflora is the
best. P. oppositifolia, flowers purple. All these are green-
house evergreen shrubs.

POLYGONATUM. Sotomon’s Szat. [Liliacee.] Hardy
herbaceous perennials. Common soil. Division.

POLYGONUM. Persicaria. [Polygonacee.] A large
genus, not remarkable for floral attractions. There are, how-
ever, exceptions. P. orientale, a common hardy annual,
which is best self-sown, grows four or five feet high, much
branched, with many gracefully nodding spikes of small red
flowers, which become conspicuous from their aggregation.
It requires no culture, but if sown artificially it may be done
in March. P. amphibiwn is a beautiful hardy water plant,
with short floating stems, and rosy flower-spikes. P. divarica-
tum is a pretty hardy perennial, densely branched, forming a
large mass, covered with feathery-looking bunches of creamy-
white flowers. It is of the easiest culture in common soil,

> ——EE————

.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 225

and increases by division. P. vaccinifolium and P. Brunonis
are beautiful rock plants: they increase by their self-rooting
trailing branches.

POLYPODIUM. Potyropy. [Polypodiacee.} Ferns.
The hardy Polypodies are good ferns for rockwork, P. vulgare
and its varieties, of which P. Cambricum is one of the hand-
ssomest of hardy ferns, being evergreen. ‘There are a great
many exotic Polypodies requiring a stove temperature. They
are rather coarse, but still noble plants if they have room to
develope themselves: they consequently require large pots,
and good rough turfy peat soil, well drained, should be used
for them. LP. alpestre, hardy. P. drepanum, greenhouse.
P. dryopteris, hardy. P. hexagonopterum, hardy. JP.
phegopteris, hardy. P. Robertianum, hardy. P. rugulosum,
greenhouse. P. vulyare, hardy. P. vulgare Cambricum,
hardy.

POLYSTICHUM. [Polypodiacew.] Evergreen ferns,
including some common native, though very beautiful species.
The most graceful of these is the P. angulare, a species of
which there are a variety of forms, but all remarkable for
their compound structure and gracefully drooping habit. The
hardy kinds are beautiful subjects for rockwork, on account of
their, elegant habit and evergreen character: they grow mm
cool shady places in turfy soil. The tender species require
a greenhouse or stove, and the ordinary treatment of indoor
ferns. The following are cultivated :—P. aculeatum, hardy ;
P. angulare, hardy ; P. Capense, greenhouse ; P. falcinellum,
greenhouse ; P. lonchitis, hardy; P. pungens, greenhouse ;
P. vestitum, greenhouse.

POMEGRANATE. See Punica.

PONTEDERA. [Pontederacex.] Aquatics. Rich strong
loam. Division. The flowers are blue and pretty. JP.
angustifolia, P. caerulea, P. cordata, and P. lanceolaia are
all natives of North America.

POPPY. See Papaver.

PORPHYROCOMA. {[Acanthacee.] Stove evergreen
soft-wooded shrubs, easily multiplied by cuttings placed in a
hotbed. Compost, loam and leaf-mould in equal proportions.
P. lanceolata, tlowers violet.

PORTULACA. | Purstane. ([Portulacee.] A genus

- Q

226 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

containing some hardy annuals of little interest, and other
species of considerable beauty, which may be treated as half-
hardy annuals. They require a light rich soil and a warm ©
sunny situation: when both soil and situation agree with
them they form very fine objects. Grown carefully in pots
for the greenhouse, they are also very ornamental. The
seeds should be sown in a hotbed early in March, and the
plants nursed on in frames not too warm, being at first
potted singly, and then shifted on as they may require until
the beginning of June, when they may be either planted out
or shifted finally for blooming in pots.

POTENTILLA. Cryqueroin. [Rosacee.] Hardy per-
ennials, now becoming popular, and comprising some fine
garden varieties, as well as very handsome species. They
grow best in loamy soil rich in vegetable matter, but not too
full of dung. The roots should be taken up early in autumn,
and parted, each crown or heart, with root attached, forming
a plant: these may be either planted in a bed to become
established, or put out at once in the borders or the flowering-
beds. <A bed filled with the varieties of Potentilla has a
very fine effect during the chief of the summer months.
Seedlings should be raised from the best varieties to obtain
distinct kinds.

PRICKLY POPPY. See Arcemone.

PRICKLY THRIFT. See AcantHoitmon.

PRIMULA. Primrose. [Primulacee.] Beautiful dwarf
tufted-growing herbaceous perennials, nearly all of which are
hardy as respects cold. Of P. vulgaris, the common Prim-
rose, there are double-flowered varieties of several colours,
These grow best in a cool, moist, but well-drained situation,
and prefer a soil of light loam intermixed with decayed tree
leaves. They are propagated by dividing the tufts mto sepa-
rate crowns with roots attached, which may be done in spring,
and the young plants planted out in cool shady situations :
by the following spring they will become strong blooming
plants. One variety of Primrose produces a bunch of flowers
on the top of a common stalk, and this appears to be the
origin of the garden plants known as Polyanthuses. Most of
the hardy species of Primula are extremely beautiful subjects
in a pot collection of alpine plants, blooming in the spring

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 227

months, between March and May. This class may be grown
in pots or on rockwork, in. peat and loam, and require
chiefly to be kept cool and moist in summer, but in winter
must be kept rather dry as well as cool. Seeds of these
may be sown about May, that the plants may acquire strength
before winter. ,

PrimuLa AuRicuLaA.—The cultivated varieties of this
species of Primula are commonly known as the Auricula.
There is hardly a flower that presents such an appearance
of artificial structure as the Auricula: the surface appears
covered, like a butterfly’s wing, with a powder, which the
touch of the finger brings off, thereby spoiling the flower.
A stage of ee talin is a really beautiful sight. Some old
books on the culture of this Hower recommend the most
‘nauseous composts for its growth; it is, however, absurd to
pretend that anything disagreeable is necessary for the pur-
pose. Loam from rotted turves two-thirds, and decomposed
dung fairly rotted into mould one-third, will be found excel-
lent compost for them to grow in; and if the loam be a little
adhesive, which it ought not to be. some silver sand may be
mixed with it. The pots in which they grow should be one-
‘third filled with broken pots, to secure complete drainage,
and in potting the plants the fibres of the roots should be
‘spread out all round. The best way is to put the soil into
‘the pot in the form of a cone, highest in the middle, and
nearly as high as the edge of the pot; put the plant on this,
with the fibres spread all round, and press it down on the soft
light mould, so that the collar of the plant shall be just below
‘the level of the edge of the pot; press the soil a little to the
roots as the pot is filled, and water it. The Auricula may be
grown to perfection in a common garden frame, with a glass
to keep off heavy rains and hard frosts. It requires but
little water all the winter. In February the surface of the
mould should be stirred a little and thrown out, and the pots
filled up again with a top-dressing of decomposed poultry-
dung, sand, and cowdung rotted into mould, equal parts ;
and from this time they may be regularly watered, have air
on fine days, and be covered at nights and in frosty weather.
In April, when in bloom, they must be shaded, or the sun
would spoil the flowers.

298 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

Primuta Sinensis.—The Chinese Primrose, sometimes
called P. prenitens, is one of the most useful of plants for
greenhouse decoration in winter and spring, and is admirably
adapted for culture as a window plant. It forms a very im-
portant feature in the greenhouse at a period of the year when
there is little else in flower, and is so much improved since
its introduction that the flower may be seen twice or three
times the size it used to be, with colours more brilliant, the
form circular, and in every way improved. ‘This is entirely
owing to the ordinary mode of improving races by raising
plants from seed. ‘l’o raise these properly sow the seed in
June, towards the latter part, in wide-mouthed pots, for it is
better to have a good body of mould under seeds than the
reduced quantity contained in seed-pans. For a compost use
two-thirds turfy loam and one-third sand. The soil should
be tolerably dry, and made moderately firm, the surface being
even with the top edge of the pot. Sow the seeds very thinly,
but evenly, and press the surface down with the palm of the
hand, and then sift some soil very finely all over it, but not
to cover more than the thickness of a shilling. Put the pot
-in the stove, or a pinery or vinery, or warm frame, or, in
default of these, in a greenhouse or ordinary frame. Water
by splashing with the hand from the hairs of a wetted brush,
holding the hairs upwards, and drawing the hand along the
hairs, which will throw the water off in such small particles
that it will not disturb the seed. When the seedlings are
up give air and water as occasion requires, and when they
have formed rough leaves prick them out an inch apart all
over a seed-pan, or as many pans as will hold them. Here
they may grow a month, or until they touch each other; then
pot them off singly in three-inch pots, with a soil composed
of turfy loam, decomposed cowdung, turfy peat, and sand, and
put a layer of crocks to reach one-third of the height of the
pot. They may be well watered to settle the earth about,
their roots. Place them in the greenhouse close to the
light, and let them have as much air as possible in mild
weather. Here they are to stand just long enough to allow
the best to be selected for further trouble. The best thus
:selected are to be marked, and to have the blooms picked off ;
and when they fill their pots with roots remove them to eight-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 229

inch ones, and continue them near the light. When they
flower again they will throw up immense trusses. There are
already various shades of red and rosy lilac, as well as white
and mottled ; some are smooth-edged, and others fimbriated
on the margin of the corollas.

Priwuta Poryanruus (P. vulyaris wmbellata). — The
Polyanthus is a well-known’ hardy perennial, blooming early
in spring. Its flowers, variegated and richly coloured, are
elevated several together on the top of a common stalk. Of
the same habit are the wild species, P. elatior, the Oxlip, and
P. veris, the Cowslip, both of which, together with the
common Primrose, are favourite subjects for planting in
shrubberies, and in other shady parts of the flower garden
and pleasure-ground. These, with the Polyanthus, prefer a
heavier loamy soil than that already recommended for double
Primroses. They are propagated by division of the roots,
and may also be raised from seeds. The seeds should be
sown in March in boxes of fine soil, put in a cool frame, and
kept moist. The plants, as soon as they can be handled,
may be pricked out an inch apart in other boxes, and
when large enough planted out in beds of the soil already
mentioned. For varieties it is best to consult the most
recent florists’ lists.

PRINCE’S FEATHER. See Amaranruus.

PRIVET. See Licusrrum.

PRONAYA. [Pittosporacew.] Greenhouse evergreen
twining shrub. Peat and sandy loam. Cuttings in sand
under glass.

PROSTANTHERA. [Lamiacex.] Greenhouse evergreen
shuubs. Sandy, turfy peat. Cuttings in sand in a hotbed.
P. violacea is very beautiful.

PROTEA. [Proteacee.] Greenhouse evergreen shrubs.
Sandy, turfy loam. Cuttings of ripe shoots in sand, or by
imported seeds.

PRUNELLA. [Lamiacee.] Hardy herbaceous peren-
nials, all with purple flowers. Common soil. Division.

PRUNUS. Prom. [Drupacee.} Hardy deciduous trees.
Dryish loamy soil. Grafting or budding.

PTERIS. [Polypodiacee.] An extensive genus of ferns,
chiefly greenhouse. Peat and loam. Division. VP. arguta,

230 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

P. Cretica, P. hastata, P. intramarginalis, P. Kingiana,
P. longifolia, P. macrophylla, P. serrulata, P. tremula, and
P. umbrosa are all cultivated. |

PULTEN AA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.} Beautiful
greenhouse evergreen shrubs, flowering yellow. They may
be treated as Dillwynias and Chorozemas. Sandy peat of
fibry texture. Cuttings in sand under bell-glasses. P. ertcoides,
P. obcordata, P. stipularis, P. stricta. Most of the species are
showy.

PUNICA. Pomecranate. [Myrtacee.} Beautiful de-
ciduous tree, suitable for walls. Light rich soil. Cuttings,
layers, or grafting. The only one grown in our gardens is
P. granatum, flowers red or whitish, single or double, in July.

PYRETHRUM. Feverrew. ([Composite.] A rather
large genus, consisting mostly of hardy perennials of the
easiest culture, not very ornamental, with the exception of
a double-flowered variety of P. Parthenium, which is showy,
blooming in profusion throughout the summer and autumn ;
the plant has, however, a strong bitter aromatic scent—that
of feverfew—which is not very agreeable. This variety is
multiplied by cuttings, planted during summer under a hand-
glass; the other hardy kinds by division. There are also
some free-growing greenhouse shrubs of little importance.

PyreTHRUM SINENSE (Chrysanthemum).— This popular
plant is quite hardy; but as it blooms late in autumn, just
at the season severe frost often occurs, it sometimes hap-
pens that outdoor plants which are one day in full beauty,
and almost the only ornaments of the garden, are the next
day blackened and cut up by the frost. The variety both of
colour and form afforded by these flowers renders a collection
interesting, and they have now become quite popular. For
high culture the plants require to be renewed every year by
cuttings—they will spread in the ground and bloom for years;
but if a dwarf plant is wanted, and the flowers are required in
perfection, they must be renewed by cuttings. One plan, the
object of which is to secure small dwarf plants in pots, is, in
July, when the plants have grown two feet or more in height,
to take off the tops three inches long, cut off the lower leaves,
plant them in sandy soil, and cover with a hand-glass; they
must be kept moist, and the pot set in a gentle hotbed, and

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 231

the glass wiped every morning. In a short time they will
strike root; then pot them in five-inch pots, and grow them
in the open air in a situation where they will not have all
the sun of mid-day. The soil in which they are potted should
be loam and rotted dung, with a little silver sand. When
the blooms are showing they may be changed into larger pots,
and removed into the house, where they will bloom in per-
fection, The plants, having nearly expended their growth
before the tops were taken off, the cuttings have not much
more growth to develope, and therefore bloom in a dwarf
state. There are other ways of growing this plant. The
young suckers, or shoots from the root, may be taken off in
November, placed in a cool frame till well rooted, and then
potted singly in light rich soil, and protected in a cold well-
aired frame until May, when they may be set out of doors in
an open place until the end of September. They must have
several good shifis, and the tops may be twice or thrice
pinched out, after two or three inches’ growth, to produce
bushy plants. In this way large plants are formed, which
become very ornamental. In all cases the plants should have
weak liquid manure or clarified soot-water at every other
watering from the time the flower-buds show distinctly: no-
thing else is so effective in producing fine high-coloured
flowers.

There are two distinct classes of Chrysanthemums now
cultivated—one tall-growing, with large flowers; the other
dwarf, compact, with numerous smaller flowers: both are
highly ornamental, the latter class, called Pompones, being
perhaps the most useful where only small greenhouses are
available for blooming them. These require stopping like
the others, and may be made to branch wonderfully by good
culture, and by spreading out the stems somewhat. Chry-
santhemums grow well against walls, and bloom magnificently
if the season proves favourable. They are also almost un-
affected by the smoke of cities and towns.

PYROLIRION. Fire Luy.- [Amaryllidacee.] Pretty
greenhouse bulbs, which should be potted in sandy loam,
and are the better for a little extra heat to start them into
growth. They are multiplied by offsets. P. awreum, flowers
golden colour. P. flavum also flowers yellow.

232 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

PYRUS. See Cyponra.

QUAKING GRASS. See Briza.

QUAMOCLIT. [Convolvulacee.| Twining plants, the
annual species of which should be raised in a mild hotbed
about March, kept in frames until May, and so hardened off
before final planting out as to bear the exposure without
injury. They make pretty objects for the flower garden; for,
though their flowers are small, they are brilliantly coloured.

QUERCUS. Oak. ([Corylacee.] A large genus of
valuable timber trees, some of the pendulous varieties of
which, and all the evergreen species, especially Q. tlew and
its varieties, are ornamental. Deep rich loam. Propagated
by seeds; the varieties chiefly by grafting.

QUINCE. See Cyponia.

RANUNCULUS. Crowroor. [Ranunculacee.] A large
genus, comprising many annual weeds and aquatics, but
chiefly consisting of hardy herbaceous perennials, some of
which are ornamental: it includes the common Crowfoot,
the buttercups of the meadows, as well as the florists’
Ranunculuses, which have sprung from R. Asiaticus. The
cultivation of these beautiful flowers has puzzled florists a
good deal. There is, however, one kind of compost in which
they will thrive, and it is worth while to be at some pains
to get it. It is obtained thus:—Cut from a good loamy
pasture the surface sod three inches thick; let these be piled
on one another in ridges for a year, and then sliced down
with a sharp spade so as to form a crumbly mass: set a
sharp boy or two to turn this over and pick out all the wire-
worms, grubs, and earwigs, and any other living pest they
can discover. This done, let it be packed into a heap again,
and remain another year, by which time all the herbage will
have resolved itself into that kind of mould which, if sepa-
rate, we should call vegetable mould. At the end of the
second year let it be again turned and examined in the same
way to clear completely any remaining intruders. This soil,
thus cleared of vermin, will grow the Ranunculus well. Com-
posts of a stimulating and exciting character are used by
some for the sake of getting the flowers a little larger, but
there is always the risk of doing mischief; and those who
have grown them on the stimulating plan have occasionally

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 233

been visited by disease and lost many of their tubers. In
this loam, then, enriched as it is by vegetable mould, plant
the roots about the middle of February two inches below the
surface, and press the earth close about them. When they
come up keep them clear of weeds, and as they break the
ground loose about them crumble it, and keep it pressed
close round them. Water them freely in hot weather, and
the instant they show the colour of their blooms keep the
sun off; they will very well repay the trouble. When the
flowers are over, and the leaves are turning yellow, take up
the tubers, and keep them out of ground till planting time.
Common sorts are planted in the autumn, but the best in
February. They may be raised from seeds in the same way
as Anemones.

RELHANIA. ~ [Composite.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Light peat and loam. Cuttings in sand under a
bell-glass, Rh. squarrosa and R. genistifolia flower yellow
in May.

RESEDA. Mrcnonette. [Resedacew.] The botanical
name of the Mignonette is Reseda odorata. This universally-
admired annual is one of the most controllable of all plants.
No matter when it is sown or where—in the smoky atmosphere
of London, the free air of the suburban villa, the green boxes
that stand outside the window, the border of the pavement,
the pent-up pots in the London markets—it is obedient.
Sow the seeds, and the plant, bloom, and seed soon reward
us. It may be sown four times a year with advantage in
boxes, pans, or pots, and may be planted out anywhere three
or four in a patch. It may be sown in pots, and be thinned,
the plants taken out being transplanted somewhere else. If
in winter the pots must be kept in the greenhouse, or in pits,
or frames with glasses; if in summer they may be in the
open air. No plants will bear rougher treatment; none
sooner show when they have been removed to better soil.
Mignonette is nothing to look at except by means of a
magnifying glass ; if makes no show, but its scent, which has
no superior among all the fragrant flowers of the garden, will
always secure for it a place in the most recherché collections.
Scatter the seed upon the borders; let the plants come up
like weeds ; they are acceptable anywhere—everywhere. It

234 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

is so nearly hardy that we have seen the old plants and
young seedlings from the self-sown seed standing side by
side after a mild winter. Mignonette, although an annual,
can be struck from cuttings, which in their turn do very
well, and almost assimilate the plant to a perennial. They
bloom more dwarf under these circumstances, but they are
not the worse for that; and as to foliage, generally speaking
that is not much to look at after the plant begins to bloom,
and does not improve the second year. Large quantities of
Mignonette are grown for the market, for which purpose it
is generally sown in pots, half a dozen seeds sprinkled in each
pot, and all of them submitted to the common garden frames
with lights: the seeds are sown about September, and the
plants have all the air that can be given all the winter. Of
course they keep growing except in frosty weather, and in
the spring months rapidly come forward. These plants show
bloom very early, before they have grown much, and are in
flower until others sown in February and March come in to
succeed them. ‘The Mignonette may be had in bloom all the
year round by a succession of sowings. A sowing in July
brings plants that flower from November till March; a sow-
ing the first week in September will carry on the blooming
from March to July; and the spring-sown ones will do the
rest. No frost must reach the pots in the winter time, and
the earth must be occasionally stirred upon the surface to let
in the air.

RESTHARROW. See Ononis.

RHAMNUS. Boucxruorn. [Rhamnacee.] The most
important garden plants of this family are the evergreen
shrubs known as Alaternus. They are increased by cuttings
planted in autumn. Good garden soil.

RHAPIS. [Palmacexe.] Greenhouse palms. Loam.
Suckers. A. arundinacea, R. aspera, R. cordata, and R. fla-
belliformis are all plants of ornamental foliage.

RHEUM. Ruuvpsars. [Polygonacee.| Hardy perennials
of coarse habit, but having a fine effect in rough borders,
and in situations where bold-looking striking plants are
desirable. Good garden soil. Division or seeds.

RHODANTHE. [Composite.] A beautiful little half-
hardy annual, whose flowers are like so many pink stars

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 235

sprinkled all over the branches, and, when well grown, as
delicate as the most elegant artificial flowers. The petals are
stiff and dry, and, if gathered when in good order, the flowers
may be classed among those vulgarly called “ everlasting.”
The soil adapted best for its healthy culture is a compost of
loam, decomposed cowdung, turfy peat, and sand; two parts
of the loam, and one of each of the rest, well incorporated,
and passed through a coarse sieve. Ina shallow pan of this
compost, gently compressed by striking the pan on the table,
and levelled even with the edge, the seeds should be sown in
March or April very thinly and evenly; with the hand
spread flat, press the surface gently all over, and then with
a very fine sieve shake enough compost over the seeds to
cover them, and no more. The pan may be placed in a hot-
bed or in the stove. When the plants come up let them
be thinned a little, drawing out any weeds that may come up
with them, and place them close to the glass. In a few
days they will be large enough to prick out four or six ina
three-inch pot; and as soon as they have taken root they
may be put into the greenhouse, and allowed to grow until
they nearly touch each other, but they must be kept near the
light, and have air in very mild weather. When they are
first pricked out they must be shaded a day or two. They
may next be planted singly in three-inch pots, and still kept
near the glass. In these pots they may continue growing
until the roots completely fill the space round the sides, when
they may be transferred to five-inch pots, in which they may
bloom. Continue to give them plenty of air, plenty of light,
and moderate waterings. There are few annuals that com-
pete with them for elegance of form, symmetry, and beauty
of flower. The supernumerary pots of five or six plants each
—that is, those not required for separate potting—should be
set aside and kept in the frames till the middle of May, when
they may be turned out into the borders in the patches
without being disturbed. Being dwarf, they must be kept
near the front. From those in the borders seed may be
expected. Be careful to gather it as soon as the flowers lose
their bright pink colour, for, as the seed ripens, the petals get
paler, and being a composite flower the seed is not within a
pod, and would easily be lost: pick off the flowers whole, and

236 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

the seed easily rubs ont. In warm situations and in light
rich soils the seeds for the outdoor plants may be sown in
April in the borders, and the patches then merely require
thinning out. The only one grown is R. Manglesit.

RHODOCHITON. [Scrophulariacee.] R. volubile, once
called Lophospermum rhodochiton, is a plant with much the
habit and appearance of Lophospermum, but more slender ;
the blossoms have a saucer-shaped rosy calyx, and a deep
purple, almost black corolla. The plant is increased by cut-
tings, which may be put in at any period between March and
August in sandy soil, and placed in a close shady place: mild
heat assists their rooting. The young plants soon acquire
strength when placed in a moderate bulk of compost, which
should consist of loam, peat, and leaf-mould in equal pro-
portions, and used in rather a rough or lumpy condition. It
is better adapted for the roof of a greenhouse or conservatory
than for the open ground, and may be grown to a very pretty
state in a large pot, the branches being trained around several
upright stakes forming a cylinder. In any case the plants
should be renewed annually.

RHODODENDRON. Rose Bay. [Ericacee.}] One of
the most ornamental families of evergreen flowering shrubs,
comprising great variety both of foliage and flower. Some of
the wild species have superb flowers, but the seedlings raised
in English gardens carry the splendour of this family greatly
beyond that of any of the original species. RR. Catawbiense,
which has the best habit of all the American species, has been
so improved from seed that varieties may now be had of
almost every colour. The Indian and hardy species, too, have
been so crossed, that the most superb varieties have been
produced with the best qualities of several species combined.
These plants are so improved now that it would be madness
to buy the original R. Ponticwm, or any other that was not
of first-rate habit and character, even to plant a shrubbery.
All that bear flowers should bear the best flowers, and the
. Ponticum would cut a sorry figure, with its mean narrow-
pointed stricken foliage, and still poorer flowers, among the
splendid varieties that have been raised. 'They must be seen
in flower to be purchased with advantage. Peat soil is the
most suitable for these shrubs; but the hardy sorts will grow

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 257

‘well planted either in fibry or heavy loams, which are im-
proved by the addition of vegetable soil. They are propagated
in a variety of ways. ‘The common sorts increase plentifully
from seeds, which are also resorted to(the flowers having been
cross-fertilised) for the raising of new varieties. Sow the seeds
in broad shallow pots well drained, and filled with a mixture
of two-thirds peat and one-third loam; place them in a cold
pit; keep the soil moist, for it must not once dry after the
seeds are in. When large enough prick the young plants
out at an inch apart into other pots or pans, and as they
become larger pot them singly ; or, if intended for the open
air, plant them in peat beds, giving them room from year to
year by taking away alternate plants and putting them else-
where. They may continue in the beds till they flower. If
there be any doubt of their hardiness put hoops and mats
over them, but it is useless to raise tender ones while there
are so many fine hardy varieties. Approved sorts and rare
species are propagated by layering, or by grafting on stocks
of the common species; sometimes by cuttings. The varieties
raised by crossing the original species are numberless.

RHUBARB. See RuEvm.

RHUS. Sumacu. [Anacardiacee.}| Hardy deciduous
shrubs. Light loam. Seeds, layers, or cuttings.

RIBES. Curranr. ([Grossulariacee.| An extensive
family of hardy shrubs, well suited for shrubberies. The
very best, which grows freely in ordinary garden soil, is the
fi. sanguineum, a deciduous plant, which about May is deco-
rated with drooping bunches of scarlet blossoms. Of this
there is a very handsome double-flowered variety, and another
in which the blossoms are white. ‘They are propagated either
by layers or by cuttings without difficulty. R. awrewm precoz,
flowers yellow. RR. speciosum, flowers scarlet.

RICHARDIA. [Aracew.] RK. Zthiopica, formerly known
as Calla AEthiopica, is a favourite greenhouse or window plant.
It bas largish somewhat arrow-shaped leaves and a very
showy inflorescence, the white oddly-shaped showy part being,
however, not the flowers, but that which covers them—an
organ called a spathe. These plants require rest, which they
take at the end of summer after bloom is over. Towards
winter they begin to grow, and should be then repotted into a

238 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

compost of one part good light loam, one part leaf-mould, and
one part decayed manure, with sand, &., as may be requisite.
The suckers should be removed if a single-stemmed vigorous
plant is preferred; but if larger, thicker plants are required,
it is only to shift them on into larger vessels till they get a
yard across, when they look very fine, but of course get
cumbrous. Small single plants are very pretty, and are
certainly preferable for windows. The plants, which form
thick fleshy tubers, are to be divided when they are dry and
at rest, and the largest tubers or offsets should be selected for
flowering. These plants will grow all the winter, and come
into a flowering state some time between January and May,
according to the time they commenced their growth. It
succeeds in a cistern in the greenhouse, and in a tank out of
doors during summer.

RICINUS. Parma Curist1. [Euphorbiacee.] For
ordinary gardens the R. communis, or Castor-oil plant, is
sufficient. It is one of those plants which, wherever there is
room for them, should always find a place, for the sake of
their fine expansive palmate foliage. The flowers are curious,
but not showy. The seeds should be sown in a hotbed in
February, and the young plants potted singly, and grown in
the frame for a few weeks, then transferred to the greenhouse
or a cooler frame, and finally hardened off in a cold frame,
ready for planting out by the end of June. The soil should
be made rich for them ; for, being grown on account of their
foliage, it is desirable to encourage them, that the leaves may
be fine and vigorous. - The variety called R. communis minor
is preferable, except where there is abundant space, when
the variety major may be grown: the leaves of the latter
are considerably the largest, though both are large. This
plant, though a shrub or tree in its native climate, is destroyed
here by our winter, and is therefore treated as a half-hardy
annual.

RIGIDELLA. [Iridacez.] Beautiful half-hardy bulbs.
Sandy loam and peat. Offsets.

ROBINIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Deciduous
shrubs and trees, many of them of large size, as is the case
with the False Acacia, or Locust tree (R. pseudo-acacia),
which, besides its elegant pinnate foliage and drooping

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 239

racemes of white sweet-scented flowers, furnishes us with a
hard and durable timber. For the flower garden and shrub-
bery, however, the species most appropriate is the Rose
Acacia (R. hispida), for which the allied species, R. macro-
phylla, may be substituted in situations where there is space
for its somewhat larger growth: both bear long drooping
racemes of large rose-coloured flowers. The Rose Acacias grow
well in moderately good garden soil; but they require rather a
sheltered situation, or their brittle branches are liable to be
broken by the wind. They should be grown as standards,
with a straight stem of three feet or more in height. They
are usually grafted on the common False Acacia, and the
precaution is generally taken to graft close to the root and a
little below the ground, not only to avoid fracture, to which
the united parts are liable, but also to facilitate union, which
is promoted by drawing up the earth so as to cover all but
the top buds of the graft. FR. inermis is pretty as a standard.

ROCHEA. [Crassulacez.| Greenhouse evergreen suc-
culents. Sandy loam. Cuttings. R. falcata, flowers scarlet.

ROCK BRAKE. See Atnosorus.

ROCKET. See Hesperis.

ROCK ROSE. See Cisrvs. '

ROELLA. [Campanulacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
dwarf shrubs. Sandy peat, with a little light loam. Cut-
tings in sand under a bell-glass. AR. ciliata, flowers greyish,
with purple centre.

RONDELETIA. [Cinchonacee.] Stove evergreen shrubs,
well worth cultivating, especially R. speciosa major. The
plant may be rendered very bushy by culture, and then the
best plan is to grow it on, because the flowers come at the
ends of all the shoots. Cuttings should be taken when the
plant is in flower, selecting the tops of those shoots that have
no bloom. ‘They strike very readily in sand, and should not
be more than two inches long, one inch of which should be
inserted in the sand, and the other above. After watering
them in cover with a bell-glass, and place them in slight
bottom heat; wipe the glasses daily, and attend well to
moisture. When they have struck pot them off singly in
three-inch pots, in a compost of equal parts peat and loam,
with a little sand. They may at once be placed in the stove.

240 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

Pinch off the tops as soon as they begin to grow, and then
lateral shoots will come ; and if these get too vigorous check
them also, by which the bushy habit will be developed.
When this is secured grow the plant right on, and all the
ends of the shoots will give flowers. When the bloom begins
to open it should be put into the part of the hothouse that
is coolest, preparatory to removal to the conservatory or
other place which it is intended to decorate with its flowers.

ROSA. Rosse. [Rosaceze.] The varieties, colours, and
habits of the Rose are almost endless. They are grown either
on their own roots, or budded on stocks—that is, stems—of
the common dog-rose. When we see the dog-rose grow
luxuriantly in a dry bank, among brambles and other plants
that seem to choke it, it is hardly reconcilable with the
popular notion that Roses require very rich soil; and if one
of these briers or dog-roses be budded as it stands in the
hedges, the variety so budded on it will grow so strong that
we are bound to consider a Rose will grow in anything. There
is, however, one consideration which may account for the
almost rampant growth of hedge-roses—the roots run to an
immense distance, and proceed onwards till they reach the
soil that.suits them. The Rose will grow well in any soil
that will grow a cabbage well. In planting Roses cut all the
ragged and damaged parts of the root clean with a sharp
knife; if any part of the root is bruised, remove it; plant
these the same depth that they have been growing before ;
prune out all the thin twigs or shoots from the head or bush ;
cut out all the branches which are in the way of others; cut
back all the last year’s wood to three eyes, and always make
the cut sloping, and just above a bud. When they are grow-
ing rub off the buds that are growing imward so as to crowd
the head. It is a good plan to prune Roses at two, if not
three seasons, for on the pruning the season of bloom depends.
The early-pruned ones grow as soon as the unpruned; the
latter push the eyes towards the end, while the eyes next the
stem do not push at all: by pruning off all the grown eyes,
the ungrown ones have to begin their growth when the pruned
bushes have grown for a month, and thus later flowers are
obtained.

ROSE ACACIA. See Roprnta.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 241

ROSE BAY. See RHopoDENDRON.

ROSMARINUS. Rosemary. [Lamiacex.] Hardy ever-
green aromatic shrubs. Light dry soil. Cuttings.

RUBUS. Brameir. [Rosacee.] Hardy trailing shrubs
for the most part. Rich loam. Cuttings and layers. A
very extensive genus; for the most part are adapted for
ardens.

RUDBECKIA. [Composite.] Showy hardy herbaceous
perennials, from which the species of Hchinacea, Obetiscaria,
Centrocarpha, and Dracopsis have been separated. Increased
by seeds sown in May, to produce flowering plants for the
next year, or by dividing the old roots any time in autumn
or spring, and planting the divisions with pieces of root
attached. They grow readily in any good common soil.

RUSCUS. Burcsher’s Broom. [Liliacese.|] Hardy ever-
green under-shrubs. Common soil. Suckers.

RUSSELIA. [Scrophulariacee.] R. juncea is a beautiful
drooping stove plant, with long pendulous branches, and bear-
ing in summer splendid scarlet tubular flowers. The plant,
if well grown, and not too rapidly advanced, produces such an
abundance of bloom, that when in flower it is a most striking
object, even in large collections ; but if it be forced too much
the plant is not half covered. Fibry loam and turfy peat,
well mixed, good drainage one-third up the pot, and a heat
of 65° to grow in by day, and 60° at night in the winter time,
will bring the plant forward in perfection. This plant must
have but one-size shifts at a time from the first potting into
_ three-inch pots, into five-inch, and from five to six, and so on
until it is in a No.4. This shifting must not take place
until the respective pots are well filled with roots. When
once well established it will bear a good deal of water; but
the cuttings and small plants must only be kept moderately
moist. Cuttings root freely in sand on the top of the usual
soil; but they require a little bottom heat, and a bell-glass to
cover them, and this must be wiped daily. The plants hang
down all round the pot, which must be placed on a pedestal
in full light, and be constantly turned, that it may be all
round alike.

SABBATIA. ([Gentianacee.] Hardy or half-hardy bien-
nials and perennials. They grow best with the aid of a green-

R

242 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

house during the period of their growth. Peat, each kept
moist. Seeds or division.

SAGE. See Satvia.

SAGITTARIA. Arrow-nEap. [Alismacee.] Aquatic
perennials, requiring various degrees of temperature. Rich
loamy soil. Division. The plants require to be placed in
water.

ST. DABEOC’S HEATH. See Dapacta.

ST. JOHN’S WORT. See Hyrrricum.

SALISBURIA. Matpen-natr Tree. [Taxacee.] Hardy
deciduous tree, ornamental on account of its habit and
singular Maiden-hair-like foliage. Sandy loam. Layers or
cuttings. S. adiantifolia is the only species cultivated.

SALIX. Wixtow. ([Salicacee.] A large genus of de-
ciduous shrubs and trees, a few of which are ornamental.
Moist soil, rather loamy. Cuttings of the stouter shoots
planted in autumn.

SALPIGLOSSIS. [Solanacez.} Annuals or biennials
of a showy character, requiring the protection of a frame or
greenhouse in winter; and, except in very sheltered situations,
where they may be planted out in summer, suited rather for
pot culture indoors than for the open air. They may be
managed very much in the same way as the biennial species
of Schizanthus. They require a light and rich compost.
Probably they are all varieties of the same png When
well cultivated they are showy plants.

SALVIA. Sace. [Lamiaceze.}] There are two kinds of
Salvia highly esteemed for the brilliance of their flowers—
S. splendens, scarlet, and S. patens, brilliant blue; but there
are many more that have nearly equal claims, and scores that
are merely weeds. Some of them are hardy, some half
hardy; some require a stove, some a greenhouse. Salvias
srow freely in any moderately good soil, the best being a
light loam with a third of rotted dung. The greenhouse
kinds do well planted out in May, and potted up again in
September, and are the better propagated annually by cuttings
in July or August. The herbaceous sorts, or half-shrubby
hardy perennials, do very well in the ordinary soil of the
garden, and multiply by parting the roots or by striking the
young shoots. The raising from seed is very simple. “The

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 243

seed has to be sown in March in wide-mouthed pots; the
seedlings pricked out early, a few in a pot, to grow into
strength, and planted out in May if they are hardy or half-
hardy, or potted if they are tender. Even the tender ones
may be planted out so that they are potted up early in Sep-
tember, and put into frames or greenhouses, or any other
contrivance, to prevent the frost from injuring them. ‘The
stove varieties are not worth notice, and the others may all
safely be treated like Geraniums, Verbenas, and other plants
for bedding out. SS. patens is a fleshy-rooted plant, requiring
to be kept dry in winter like a Dahlia root. In dry soils,
deeply planted ; it lives, however, in the open borders.

SANDERSONIA. [Melanthacee.] A beautiful green-
house evergreen perennial, with tuberous roots. Sandy loam
and peat. Division or seeds. S. aurantiaca, flowers brilliant
orange.

SANDWORT. See Arenarta.

SANGUISORBA. Great Buryet. [Rosacee.] Hardy
perennials of rather coarse habit, but with elegant foliage.
Common soil. Division.

SANTOLINA. LavenDeErR Corton. [Composite.] Hardy
evergreen shrubs of neat compact habit. Common soil.
Cuttings.

SANVITALIA. [Composite.] A procumbent half-hardy
annual, requiring the ordinary treatment of half-hardy
annuals. Sown in the border or in beds about the beginning
of April, it will bloom about July. It is a suitable plant for
the edges of beds. SS. procumbens, flowers yellow.

SAPONARIA. Soapwortr. ([Caryophyllacee.} Showy
hardy plants, consisting of annuals and perennials. Among
the latter is S. officinalis flore-pleno, a vigorous-growing subject
of the easiest culture, which, as it propagates by fragments of
its roots, is with difficulty extirpated where it has been once
introduced, but does not spread very rapidly of itself. Another
pretty species, forming indeed a beautiful object on rockwork
during summer, but apt to suffer from damp in winter, and
therefore requiring to be preserved at that season in a dry
frame, is the S. ocymoides, which spreads over the surface of
the ground in patches of some size, covered with innumerable
rose-coloured stars through the principal part of the summer

244 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

season. This kind is best increased by seeds when they are
to be procured: these should be sown in May or June, and
the young plants potted singly, using a compost of sandy
loam, and keeping them sheltered from much wet and damp
in cool frames through the first winter, when they may be
planted out. When seeds are not to be had, cuttings must be
planted in June or July in sandy soil under hand-lights, and
these young plants wintered as before. A store of young
plants should be so preserved annually. For a dwarf bed in
a flower garden this species is well suited, on account of the
mass in which its blossoms are produced: when so planted
the surface should be covered with stones, over which’ the
branches of the Saponaria delight to spread. S. Calabrica is
a beautiful annual, of very much the same character in other
respects.

SARRACENIA. Sipe-sappie Frower. [Sarraceniacee. |
Half-hardy herbaceous perennials. Sphagnum moss and fibry
peat. They require a frame at all seasons—in winter as a
protection against frost, in summer to keep them moist. Divi-
sion. S. Drummondi, S. flava, S. minor, S. purpurea, S.
rubra, and S. variolaris are all interesting plants, remarkable
for the pitcher-like form of the leaves.

SATYRIUM. [Orchidacee.] Greenhouse tuberous-
rooted perennials, requiring the treatment of Orchis. Soil,
peat and fibry loam well drained. All the species are in-
teresting.

SAXIFRAGA. Saxirrace. ([Saxifragacee.] Hardy
perennials of close-tufted growth, mostly of small stature and
of simple beauty. All the species are admirably suited for
rockwork, thriving when planted on raised banks among rough
stones, which they soon cover with their matted branches.
One species, S. wmbrosa, familiarly called London Pride, is
one of the most valuable of plants for town gardens; in fact,
it thrives anywhere, as well in the midst of smoke and shade
as in the pure air: this grows a foot or more high, and has
pink flowers prettily spotted, which are produced about May.
They flourish in any kind of light soil, and increase to any
extent by division. ‘The London Pride is sometimes planted
as an edging to flower-borders, and looks very pretty, but re-
quires to be frequently replanted.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 245

SCABIOSA. Scasious. [Dipsacee.] Hardy herbaceous
perennials. Common soil. Division.

SCHAZRIA. ([Gesneracese.] Beautiful Achimenes-like
cool stove tuberous perennials. Light rich soil. Division.
S. Mewicana. flowers violet purple.

SCHIVERECKIA. [Crucifere.] Hardy perennial rock
plants. Common soil. Division.

SCHIZAA. [Osmundacee.] A genus of curious ferns.
Peat soil. Division. The only one grown is S. pusilla.

SCHIZANTHUS. [Scrophulariacee.] Hardy annuals
and greenhouse biennials. The plant is of branching elegant
habit, and well covered with bloom; the flowers of an odd
shape, with wings and lips of different colours. These latter
not only run into one another, but every year give new varie-
ties, that would deservedly be kept distinct were they peren-
nials instead of annuals; but they are not constant from seed.
No matter; they are a very pretty tribe of plants, and for
pot culture, as well as the borders, are worthy of all gardens.
Sown in the open borders, they bloom the more dwarf in pro-
portion as the soil is poor; but the best way to raise them is
on a hotbed in March; prick them out in pots, a few in a pot,
in April; and in May select as many as required for pot bloom-
ing, and pot them singly into five-inch pots. Turn the rest
out, with the ball of earth whole, to form patches in the bor-
ders. In June the potted ones will bear shifting to eight-inch
pots, and in these they will flower beautifully. Meanwhile
those in the borders will make a great show, and from the
variety of colours, and the combinations of colour they gene-
rally present, the patches will look far better than they would
if the flowers were all of a colour. Soil for potting, two-thirds
mellow turfy loam, one-third turfy peat, with sand if neces-
sary. The greenhouse biennial section is only suitable for
pot culture, and differs in requiring to be sown in July or
August, and kept through the winter in small pots, on a dry
airy greenhouse shelf. They bloom very late if sown in
spring.

SCHIZONOTIS. [Rosacew.] A small set of hardy
shrubs, separated from Spir@a, and differing in having pin-
nate leaves. S. tomentosus (Spir@a Lindleyana) is a very
desirable hardy shrub, requiring the same mode of manage-

246 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

ment as the shrubby species of Spirea, from which this genus
has been separated.

SCHIZOPETALON. ([Crucifere.} 8S. Walkeri is a
hardy annual, more curious than beautiful, but withal worth
a place in any garden, not only for the singularity of its
appearance, but also for the fragrance which it evolves
towards evening. It is one of the cruciferous order, the
flowers of which have four petals; but in this case these
parts are curiously fringed: they are white on the face, dull
brown on the back. It should be sown in April in mode-
rately light soil, and will flower about July, successional sow-
ings blooming on till September. A few plants grown with
some care in pots, and kept in a frame near the light, with
plenty of air, are interesting subjects for the greenhouse
when in blossom, but they are apt to get drawn under con-
finement.

SCHQCANIA. [Composite.] <A lovely greenhouse annual.
Light rich soil. Seeds. SS. oppositifolia, flowers rose colour.

SCILLA. Squirt. [Liliacee.] A genus of bulbs, for
the most part hardy, and ranking among the prettiest orna-
ments of the early spring. They are far too much neglected
in gardens, though of the easiest culture, and very gay ap-
pearance at a season when flowers are scarce. They grow
very well in any moderately good garden soil, but have rather
a preference for soil containing a considerable portion of peat
earth, or a free light loam: this is especially the case with
several of the smaller kinds. They multiply rapidly by
means of offsets, and their culture is very simple; for they
merely require planting in the autumn, the bulbs being placed
from two to four inches under ground, according to their size,
and they may then remain year after year, the patches of
bulbs increasing in size, until it is required to form new
plantations. Except for this purpose, or for the sake of in-
crease, the less they are disturbed the better. There are
something like three dozen species recorded as being in cul-
tivation, all of which are worth planting in a garden. All
beautiful in their way.

SCOLOPENDRIUM. Harrt’s-toncurt Fern. [Poly-
podiacee.| Beautiful hardy evergreen ferns. Soil, loam and
peat. Division or spores. The curious varieties into which

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. Q47

the common Hart’s-tongue Fern, S. vulgare, sports is very
remarkable.

SCUTELLARIA. Scurt-cap. [Scrophulariacee.} <A
rather numerous family of dwarf herbaceous perennials, some
of which are very ornamental. They are mostly hardy,
showy, and worth growing in the mixed flower-borders, often
requiring a dryish situation. They are not particular as to
soil, and are readily increased by division, or, where the roots
are coarse and indivisible, by planting as cuttings the young
shoots produced from the crowns of the roots in spring.
There is another set requiring greenhouse protection, at least
in winter. These are increased by cuttings planted in sandy
soil, and placed in a mild hotbed, and the plants should be
potted into rich soil of loam and leaf-mould if grown in pots ;
but they may be planted out in a warm situation in the
flower garden by the beginning of June, to come into flower
about August.

SCYPHANTHUS. [Loasacee.] A handsome twining
plant, related to Loasa, and best treated as an annual. It
may be grown in pots or trellises, or on the rafters of the
greenhouse, or may be planted out for the summer in warm
situations where the soil is light and dryish. In pots it
should be grown in a sandy mixture of loam and leaf-mould.
The seeds should be sown in March in a mild hotbed, and
nursed on till they are able to bear the temperature of the
greenhouse, after which they may be planted out. They may
also be sown in May in the borders.

SEA LAVENDER. See Sratice.

SEDUM. Srongcrop. [Crassulacee.} A large family
of succulents, comprising a great many kinds which are hardy
herbs. They are well adapted for covering rockwork, or for
pot culture along with alpines. They are of the easiest
culture, growing in almost any soil not retentive of moisture,
but preferring that which is sandy. When established on
rockwork they grow almost without soil. A very handsome
half-hardy kind, somewhat shrubby-habited, is S. Steboldii,
one of the prettiest of the species, having very glaucous
leaves, and large heads of pink flowers: it forms a large tuft
when grown in a large pot, and should have a light open soil.
Increased by division.

248 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

SELAGO. ([Verbenacez.| Pretty soft-wooded green-
house shrubs of easy culture, growing freely from cuttings
planted in sand, and placed in a hotbed, and thriving in a
light open compost of turfy peat and loam. The best are S.
distans, pale lilac, and S. Gillit, rose, all summer.

SEMPERVIVUM. MHovsetzex. ([Crassulacee.|] A
genus of succulents, related to Sedum, comprising many
species of shrubby habit, requiring a greenhouse, and some
few hardy and frame perennials. The greenhouse shrubby
sorts are distinct, and worth growing in a collection of
succulents: they differ in the form and arrangement of their
leaves, and in their habit of growth. Of S. arboreum there
is a variety which has the leaves tinged constantly with dark
purple. S. arboreum and S. Youngianum belong to a small
group to which the name onium is sometimes applied.
These kinds multiply from cuttings of the branches, or by
the leaves, dried a little before planting. The plants should
be grown in sandy loam, and require to be kept in the green-
house, sheltered from frost. The hardy herbaceous kinds
grow in ordinary garden soil, flourishing most where the
situation is rather dry than otherwise. Increased by division.

SENECIO. Grovunpset. [Composite.] An extensive
genus of composite plants, of which the most popular are the
Cinerarias. The hardy herbaceous kinds are of little im-
portance. 8S. elegans is an annual, requiring to be sown in
the open border in the month of April, and again in June for
a succession. The double-flowered varieties, which are very
handsome, may be multiplied by cuttings, and treated as
perennial sub-shrubs. The cuttings are struck in July or
August, and removed at once into small pots: they are kept
in cold frames until there is no danger from frost, when it is
customary to remove them to the shelves near the glass in
the greenhouse. If for blooming im pots they are shifted on
like Cinerarias ; but if for planting out in the flower garden,
where they make admirable beds, they may stand in the
small pots till March, and then be removed into pots two
sizes larger, in which they remain until they are planted out
in the beginning of June, by which time they will be in
flower. The young plants should be freely topped during
autumn and winter and the early spring, to make them

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 2419

bushy. The double white and the double purple are distinct
and very desirable kinds; and we remember to have seen,
many years ago, a still handsomer kind, with full double
light purple flowers, and the foliage beautifully variegated
with white and purple. Semi-double forms are not uncommon
among seedling plants, but it is the full double ones only that
should be grown.

SENECIO, sP. VAR. CrnERARIA.—The Cinerarias are a race of
very showy greenhouse plants, mostly of herbaceous habit,
and growing from one to two feet high. They have originated
from some species of Senecio, apparently such as cruentus,
populifolius, L’Heritiert, tussilaginis, &e. Formerly known
only as common-looking blue or purple star-flowers, about
the size of a common Daisy, they are rapidly becoming one
of the most favourite of florists’ flowers. There is no end of
colours and shades—purples, lilacs, blues, bronzes, and varie-
gations ; some like shot-silks, cthers like gems. They may
be had in bloom for a long period in spring. Loam, dung,
and peat earth in even proportions answer well for soil, and
a cold frame and glass that will merely keep out the frost are
all the protection they need. The seed may be sown in
spring, the seedlings pricked out in July, and potted off
for winter quarters by September: this is for new varieties.
To multiply old ones the side-shoots or offsets must be taken
off when the bloom declines, and potted in small-sized pots,
or the very small plants may be put five or six round the
edge of a pot. As these advance they must have more
room. ‘The principal management in winter is to keep them
well watered, but also well drained and cool. If seed is not
wanted the bloom-stalks ought to be cut down as soon as they
begin to decline, for it weakens the plants to allow the seeds
to ripen, or even swell. Seedlings of these plants do not
resemble the parents from which the seeds have been
obtained ; therefore any favourite or handsome rarities must
be perpetuated by division. The closer the petals are at the
ends the better the flower, because it should represent a
perfect circle.

SHADDOCK. See Cirrus.

SHEEP'S SCABIOUS. See Jasione.

SHIELD FERN. See Aspipivm.

250 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

SIDA. [Malvacew.] Half-hardy perennials of showy
character, which have been sometimes called Nuttallia. Peat.
Division or seeds. They require to be protected against
damp.

SIDE-SADDLE FLOWER. See Sarracenta.

SIEVERSIA. [Rosacee.] Hardy perennials, with the
habit and structure of Geum, and requiring similar treatment.
They are mostly dwarf plants, and grow in light garden soil,
increase being effected by dividing the roots. Pretty plants
for the border or for rockwork.

SILENE. Carcuriy. ([Caryophyllacee.] A genus of
annual and perennial plants, bearing trusses of pink, red,
pale rose, and lilac blossoms, and lasting some weeks in bloom,
pretty enough as border flowers, but put greatly in the back-
ground by more showy and popular subjects. The annuals
may be sown in the open border where they are to remain:
if they are sown too thickly they will draw up, therefore they
should be thinned. The perennial sorts grow in common
soil, and are propagated by division.

SILVER FIR. See Picza.

SINNINGIA. [Gesneracex.] Stove perennials, allied to
Gloxinia, and requiring similar management.

SIPHOCAMPYLOS. [Lobeliacee.] A genus of showy
plants, so closely related to Lobelia that various species have
been ranked in both genera. They are herbaceous plants,
with a half-shrubby mode of growth, throwing up from the
root long stems in one season, which mostly branch and_ blos-
som during the next, or bloom along their upper portion
towards the close of the season in which -they are produced.
They require loam, peat, and sand for a compost, as in the
shrubby Lobelias, and are in the same way increased .by
cuttings. The following are stove perennials :—S. bicolor,
flowers scarlet and yellow; S. coccineus, flowers scarlet; S.
longipedunculatus, flowers red; 8S. manettieflorus, flowers
scarlet and yellow.

SISYRINCHIUM. [Iridacew.] Pretty half-hardy peren-
nials of the Iris family. They prefer a bed of peat soil, and
propagate by division. The half-hardy species should be
potted in the same kind of soil, and should not be over-
watered in winter.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 5%

SITOLOBIUM. [Polypodiacee.] Ferns, of which some
are hardy or greenhouse species. Peat and loam. Division.
S. davallioides and S. punctilobum are grown.

SCIMMIA. [Aurantiacee.] A fine hardy evergreen
shrub, remarkable for its fragrant flowers and coral berries.
Good loamy soil. Cuttings, or layers, or seeds.. S. Japonica,
flowers white.

SCULL-CAP. See Scurenuaria.

SLIPPERWORT. See Catcro.aria.

SNAPDRAGON. See AnTIRRHINUM.

SNOWDROP. See GaLanruus.

SNOWFLAKE. See Levucousum.

SNOWY MESPILUS. See AMELANCHIER BOTRYAPIUM.

SOAPWORT. See Saponaria.

SOLANUM. NicursHapve. ([Solanacew.] This very
extensive genus comprises plants greatly varied in their habits,
and includes stove, greenhouse, and hardy kinds, annuals,
perennials, and shrubs. S. pseudo-capsicwm is grown for its
red cherry-like berries in winter; but the best of all the
Solanums for a limited garden is, perhaps, the S. crispum,
a kind nearly or quite hardy, succeeding well trained against
a wall, and bearing a great profusion of lilac or pale purple
flowers. These kinds all grow well in a good loamy compost,
and are propagated by cuttings. S. Amazonicum is a fine
stove shrub, with prickly leaves and purple flowers: it is a
free grower in loamy soil, and requires plenty of pot room,
and the temperature of a stove. One of the most singular
plants of this genus is the Egg plant.

Eee Prant (Solanum oviyerum).—This is the type of a
little group which are chiefly cultivated for the extraordinary
likeness between their fruit and the egg of the domestic fowl.
The white and purple are both cultivated to a considerable
extent as market plants, and the former is well worth the
trouble. The seeds should be sown in heat in March in
wide-mouthed pots, and when large enough planted singly
in three-inch pots in loam, dung, and peat, equal quantities,
and placed in a hotbed. As soon as the pots fill with roots
change them to the next size, and continue them in the hot-
bed: the nearer they are kept to the glass the better, so that
they do not touch. Water them rather freely as they begin

252 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

to flower, for the fruit takes up a good deal of nourishment
as they swell. When the fruit sets they may be removed to
the greenhouse near the glass, otherwise they will draw. If
the pots fill with the roots again give them another change ;
but those intended for market are merely watered with
manure water, which excites them enough for that purpose.
The manure water should be made with cowdung thoroughly
decomposed—a good spadeful in eighteen gallons of water,
stirred round two or three days before using, and diluted
every time it is used: a shift, however, is far better for the
plant, and therefore is recommended when we grow it for
home show instead of market. The ripened fruit contains
the seed for the next year.

SOLDANELLA. [Primulacee.] A beautiful little group
of minute perennial plants, hardy, and among the most in-
teresting of the alpine families. They increase with facility
by the process of dividing the roots, and should be kept in pots
—a store at least—protected from wet, and slightly from frost
during the winter season. The pots must be well drained, for
they will not bear stagnant moisture with impunity. When
grown vigorously in pots, and flowered in good-sized tufts, they
are very:ornamental objects. The compost for them should
be sandy loam and peat, made very porous. The few species
are all beautiful, and no one should be omitted if all can be
obtained. The following are perhaps the best :—S. alpina,
S. minima, and S. montana, flower blue. S. pusilla, flowers
violet.

SOLIDAGO. Gotpren Rop. [Composite.] Hardy her-
baceous perennials, all producing yellow Daisy-shaped blos-
soms, small individually, but for the most part produced so
abundantly as to have a very conspicuous appearance: they
mostly bloom in autumn, and some very late in the season.
They are increased by dividing the roots, separating some of
the young suckers, which are annually produced in abundance
at the base of the plant. This may be done in autumn or
spring, and the divisions planted in ordinary garden soil.
The patches should be replanted every three or four years,
or they are liable to spread, and become too large. The
most vigorous young plants are always to be obtained from
the outsides of the old patches. But few of the numerous

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 253

kinds are required in one garden, as there is considerable
sameness in their general aspect.

SOLLYA. [Pittosporacee.] Pretty evergreen greenhouse
climbing shrubs, bearing small bunches of neat blue flowers.
They are vigorous growers, extending with a woody stem some
ten or twelve feet; but the parts being small, they may readily
be trained on a cylinder trellis so as to form a bush-like out-
line, and to admit of their being cultivated in pots. For
front pillars in greenhouses and conservatories, however, they
are well suited. They should have a compost of equal parts
loam and peat, and increase either by cuttings or seeds with
facility. S. Drummondii, deep blue. 8S. heterophylla,
flowers pale blue. S. linearis, flowers deep blue.

SOLOMON’S SEAL. See Potyconatum.

SOUTHERNWOOD. See ARrTemista.

SOUTH SEA MYRTLE. See Leprospermum.

SOWBREAD. See CycLtaMEn.

SPARAXIS. [Iridacee.] A family of showy iridaceous
bulbs, requiring a frame or greenhouse; that is to say, pro-
tection from frost and damp, as with Ixia, to which genus
this is closely allied. All showy little plants.

SPECULARIA. [Campanulacee.] A small family of
hardy annuals, formerly comprised under Campanula. The
common S. speculum, with purplish-lilac flowers, varies to
white and rose-coloured, and is distinct and pretty. The
plants form a small spreading mass of about nine inches
high, and may be had in bloom for the whole summer by
successive sowing from March to June. The seeds may be
sown—very thinly, for they are very small—in the open
border, and should be very lightly covered. Thin out the
plants well as soon as they are large enough to pick out those
not required : six or eight plants are enough to form a patch.

SPEEDWELL. See Veronica.

SPHENOGYNE. [Composite.] A genus of composite
plants, consisting of hardy annuals and greenhouse shrubs.
The most useful is S. speciosa, a very pretty half-hardy
annual, which may be had in succession through the summer
by successive sowings. The first may be sown in a gentle
hotbed in March; these may be followed by others in the
open ground in April, May, and June. The plants grow well

254 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

in rich light garden soil, and in favourable seasons are very
ornamental.

SPIDERWORT. See Trapescanrmta.

SPIGELIA. Worm Grass. {Loganiacee.] 8S. Mari-
landica is a pretty hardy perennial herb, growing a foot high,
and bearing tubular flowers, which are scarlet, tipped with
green, and bear no inconsiderable resemblance to those of the
Correa speciosa. The plant prefers a cool and somewhat shady
situation, where the soil is of a somewhat peaty character—
say half peat and half maiden loam. When in a thriving
condition it is a very pretty plant. It is propagated by divi-
sion of the root.

SPINDLE TREE. See EKuvonymus.

SPIRAA. [Rosacee.| <A very interesting tribe of hardy
plants, some of them herbaceous perennials, others deciduous
shrubs, handsome when in flower; nearly all bear white flowers
in pyramidal spikes. The herbaceous kinds are beautiful in
pots or in the borders, and the shrubs are pretty in plantations
and dressed grounds. The former are propagated by parting
the plants and by cuttings, and the latter by layers and by
cuttings of the young wood. ‘The herbaceous kinds spread a
good deal, and may be divided easily, but it should be done
early in autumn or in spring ; and in the case of the rarer and
more delicate kinds the divided parts should be potted until
they have established themselves, and may then be planted in
the open border; the others may be parted and planted out at
once. The shrubs are very useful in clumps, and can be
trained, or rather pruned, to any form. To propagate these
the branches should be layered in autumn, a slit being cut
under a joint, and the branch pegged down below the surface;
the next autumn the layers may be cut off, and planted in
nursery-beds about a foot apart to grow into strength; they
may be pruned into form while there, and when they grow
too large for their space every other plant may be taken up
and planted in other beds, eighteen inches or two feet apart,
or be placed at once where they are to remain. There are
many, of which those enumerated are some of the best
and most distinct. S. ariefolia, flowers whitish. S. bella,
rose. &S. callosa, deep rose. S. Douglasit, rose. 8S. opuli-
folia, white. S. palmata, red. S. pruntfolia, white. The

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 255

double-flowered variety, flore-pleno, is a beautiful shrub,
with double white button-like blossoms. 8S. grandiflora is
the best.

SPIRONEMA. [Commelinacee.] Greenhouse herbaceous
plants, with fragrant flowers. Sandy loam and peat. Division
and seeds.

SPLEENWORT. See AsPLenium.

SPREKELIA. [Amarylligacee.] Beautiful stove or
greenhouse bulbs. S. formosissima, the old Amaryllis for-
mosissima, is imported annually in large quantities. This
species should be potted directly the bulbs come over in
loam, rotted dung, and coarse sand, equal parts, burying half
the bulb in the soil; they should be placed in a common
hotbed such as cucumbers are grown in, and will not be long
before they commence growing and blooming, producing
flowers of the richest crimson, exposing the entire inner
surface of the petals: these last some time in perfection if
removed to the conservatory or the dwelling-house. They
may be grown as greenhouse bulbs, keeping them in the
house on a very light shelf while the leaves are growing, and
watering with weak manure water while in full vigour; then
ripening off, and keeping the bulbs quite dry in winter until
they show signs of flowering. Increased by offsets.

SPRENGELIA. ([Epacridacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Sandy, fibry peat. Cuttings in sand under a bell-

lass. S. incarnata, flowers flesh colour.

SPRUCE FIR. See Asizs.

SPURGE. See Kupnorsta.

SPURGE LAUREL. See Darune.

SQUILL. See Scitua.

STAPELIA. ([Asclepiadacee.] Succulent plants, re-
quiring stove heat at certain seasons to bring them to per-
fection: they have four-angled fleshy stems, and star-shaped
flowers of curious appearance. Including the allied genera,
Orbea, Tromotriche, Tridentia, Podanthes, Obesia, Davallia,
Gonostemon, and Caruncularia, all once called Stapelia, the
genus is a very large one. Any of the species are worth
growing; but we should not omit to select S. grandiflora,
which has large dark purple flowers early in winter; nor
S. bufonia, which has yellow flowers, marked with black, in

256 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

autumn. The flowers of most of these have the singular
property of smelling like carrion, which smell attracts the
flies, so that the blooms often become eaten by maggots.
They are grown as curiosities, their flowers being very extra-
ordinary, almost artificial-like. They grow best in a mixture
of sandy loam and brick rubbish or broken pots, with a very
liberal drainage. They should at all times be sparingly
watered, and in winter time ghey hardly require any. They
require stove culture, or a warm close greenhouse, while
growing in the early part of summer, and afterwards may be
ripened and kept in a greenhouse ; but, as they bloom chiefly
in autumn, warmth,is desirable to enable them to expand
their flowers. They are increased readily by cuttings, which,
as they are very succulent, should be allowed to dry a week
after they are taken off, when they may at once be put singly
into pots, for:they will strike in their own pots without any
bell-glass or other covering. There are upwards of a hundred
kinds.

STAR OF BETHLEHEM. See OrntrHoeatoum.

STARWORT. See Aster.

STATICE. Sera Lavenper. [Plumbaginacee.] Fine
hardy or half-hardy perennials, growing vigorously in ordinary
flower-borders of good light loamy soil, where they throw up
their widely-branching flower-stems, with hundreds of small
blooms covering them, and forming a complete feather of
diminutive blossoms, for the most part white or blue. These
perennials only require planting out, and, with watering in dry
weather, they will increase in size and flower season after
season, until they may be taken up and parted to multiply
them, when they set to work and soon spread again, and
become conspicuous. When the roots are taken up they are
divided so as to give at least one good heart to each piece of
root, the roots being rather coarse. All the hardy kinds want
the same treatment. The half-hardy kinds may be kept with
the protection of a frame, and are best grown in pots; or at
least a store of plants should be kept in pots if those in the
borders are annually abandoned. The genus also contains a
few warm greenhouse evergreens which are very ornamental,
and should be grown in a compost of equal parts of light
turfy loam and turfy peat. The drainage must be very good,

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 257

composed of broken potsherds, occupymg one-fourth the
height of the pot, and the plants should be put into pots no
larger than may be necessary for the roots. ‘They should be
grown near the glass, and changed from one pot to another as
the roots get crowded. ‘They are propagated by cuttings,
which strike freely under a bell-glass with a little bottom heat.
The plants must also be kept from frost, and should have a
warm greenhouse. Some Statices are now called Armeria.
The following are worth their places: — 8S. arborea, S.
JSrutescens, S. imbricata, 8. macrophylla, S. mucronata, and
S. puberula. All the Statices are worth growing. S. eximia
and S. bicolor are perfectly hardy.

STAUNTONIA. See HotBot.ia.

STENOCARPUS. [Proteacee.| Fine greenhouse ever-
green shrubs. Fibry loam. Cuttings. S. Cunninghami is
better known as Agnostus sinuata.

STENOCHILUS. {Myoporacee.] Greenhouse evergreen
shrubs. Fibry peat, and a fourth part light loam. Cuttings
in sand under a bell-glass. S. maculatus, flowers red.

STENOMESSON. [Amaryllidacez.| Pretty dwarf bulbous
plants, requiring greenhouse protection. Like other bulbs
of this class, they require to be kept dry when at rest in
winter, but should have an abundant supply of water while
growing. <A sandy mixture of loam and peat suits them best.
Offsets.

STERNBERGIA. [Amaryllidacee.] Hardy bulbs. Sandy
loam. Offsets.

STIPA. FeratHer Grass. ([Graminew.] Ornamental
hardy perennial. Common soil. Division.

STOCK. See Maruioa.

STONECROP. See Srpvum.

STORK’S BILL. See PeLarconium.

STRANVESIA. [Pomacew.| A fine half-hardy evergreen
shrub. Dryish loamy soil. Increased by grafting on the
Whitethorn. A fine plant for walls. . glaucescens, flowers
white, in June.

STRAWBERRY TREE. See Arsurus.

STRELITZIA. [Musacee.] A genus of extraordinary-
looking stove or greenhouse plants, familiar to us in all stove
collections, as having a flower almost like the head of some

S

258 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

gay bird, formed of orange and blue, each individual blossom
keeping in perfection a considerable time, and being succeeded
by others as it decays. Loam and turfy peat form the best
compost for it. It may be grown on to a large specimen,
filling a large pot or tub, and consisting of so many hearts or
crowns that some one or other may be expected to be always
in flower. There is required, however, for all plants a period
of rest, and then the Strelitzia should be put in the coolest
part of the stove, and have but little water. Whenever the
largest-sized pot in which it can be accommodated is filled so
close with roots as to starve the plant, it must be turned out,
and some of the offsets removed, the mould being shaken
out enough to do this conveniently, and the strongest pieces
potted again, either singly as small plants, or several together
in a pot as large as may be required. Ifa large mass is still
desired, no more need be taken away than enough to afford
space to replant it in the same pot or tub. The offsets so
parted must undergo the same treatment, being changed
from pot to pot till they arrive at the same perfection. When
changed from large pots to tubs the plants get unwieldy, and
are only adapted for certain situations, so that in small gardens
it is much better to part them. They will live in a greenhouse
from which frost is excluded. The best is S. regina, stove
perennial, flowers orange and purple.

STREPTOCARPUS. [Gesneracee.] Pretty greenhouse
herbaceous perennials. Light rich loamy compost. Seeds in
spring in a warm frame. S. Rewii, flowers blue lilac.

STRUMARIA. [Amaryllidacee.] Greenhouse bulbs.
Rich loam. Offsets. They require the treatment of Nerine
and Amaryllis. .

STRUTHIOPTERIS. [Polypodiaces.] Beautiful hardy
ferns. Peat soil. Division. The best is S. Germanica.

STYLIDIUM. Sryreworr. ([Stylidiacee.] Very dis-
tinct and pretty-looking plants, for the most part greenhouse
perennials. ‘They like a soil of rather sandy peat earth, and,
being of small size, do not require very large pots. Seeds
produce the best young plants: sow as soon as ripe in sandy
peat, and keep in the greenhouse. Young shoots taken off,
and planted in sand as cuttings, also form healthy young
plants.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 259

STYPHELIA. ([Epacridacer.] Evergreen greenhouse
shrubs, with the habit of Epacris. 8S. tubiflora, a handsome
shrub in its season, under good management, literally—
covered, we were going to say, but inasmuch as the blooms
bend downwards, and are under the branches rather than
above, we must say the flowers are as numerous as leaves
One great and excellent quality is that they last as long as
two months in perfection, and they are of a rich scarlet
crimson, and an inch or more in length. The plant requires
much the treatment of Epacris; that is, to have a compost
of three parts fibry peat to one of sandy loam; to be potted
into small pots, and changed from one pot to another of the
next larger size, as fast as these fill with roots; to be kept
in the greenhouse, and very carefully watered, for it is as
difficult to manage in this particular as an Erica, which
wants constant watching and enough watering, but no more.
Small cuttings an inch and a half long will strike well in
sand on the top of the compost under a bell-glass. It is one
of the prettiest of greenhouse plants, and there is no excuse
for any lover of plants who has it not in his collection.

SUMACH. See Ruvs.

SUNDEW. See Drosera.

SUNFLOWER. See Hettanruvs.

SUN ROSE. See HetrantHEmMvm.

SUTHERLANDIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] S.
frutescens is a pretty half-hardy sub-shrubby plant, easily
kept in a cool greenhouse in winter, and thriving best when
planted out on a warm sheltered border for the summer.
The compost may be loam, peat, and leaf-mould in equal
proportions. If kept in a pot it requires to be frequently
topped while young to get it sufficiently bushy in its growth.
Seedlings make the best plants: the seeds may be sown
in May or June. Cuttings root in sandy soil in a warm
frame.

SWAINSONIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacese.] Pretty
greenhouse sub-shrubs. Best raised from seeds, the plants
requiring to be frequently topped while young to keep them
bushy. Cuttings will also root in sandy soil in a frame where
there is a slight bottom heat. They require a greenhouse
temperature, and should be potted into a light open compost

260 GLENNY'’S HANDBOOK

of loam, leaf-mould, and peat in equal parts. S. galegifolia,
S. Greyana, and 8. Osbornii are worth growing.

SWALLOW-WORT. See Ascieptas.

SWAN DAISY. See Bracuycome.

SWEET ALYSSUM. See Konica.

SWEET BRIER. See Rosa Rusiernosa.

SWHET PEA. See Latuyrus.

SWEET SCABIOUS. See AsrERocEPHALUS.

SWEET SULTAN. See CenrauREA MoscHATA.

SWEETWILLIAM. See Dianruvs Barsatus.

SYMPHIANDRA. [Campanulacee.| Hardy perennial.
Dryish sandy loam. Seeds or cuttings.

SYMPHORICARPUS. ([Caprifoliacee.] Pretty deci-
duous shrubs, remarkable for the white berries which succeed
their flowers and remain through the winter. Common soil.
Suckers.

SYRINGA. Liac. [Oleacee.] This family comprises
the Lilac and its varieties. Well-known and favourite de-
ciduous shrubs, of which there are several very distinct kinds.
The common Lilac, S. vulgaris, gives white, red, and purple
varieties; the Persian Lilac, S. Persica, has a white as well as
a cut-leaved variety. There are some others, as S. Josikea
and the Chinese S. Rothomagensis, which is perhaps the best
of all: they chiefly differ in the size of the foliage and flower.
All are hardy, and well deserving a place in all shrubberies.
They are propagated by layers and suckers, the latter of which
abound so much as to become troublesome unless regularly
removed, with the bit of root to which they are attached.
All these species grow naturally in the form of bushy shrubs,
but they are in every respect more desirable as standards. To
make them grow as standards the buds of the suckers with
single stems are all rubbed off, but two or three placed at and
near the top; and, as the top advances in height, the under
branches are cut clean away, so that at no one time shall there
be more than the few top branches. When the single stem,
with its top three pairs of branches, has reached the desired
height, say six feet or less, the branches are allowed to
remain on and grow; but the top is removed to prevent the
tree growing higher, and the ends of the branches are also
removed to encourage lateral shoots, which soon form a hand-

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 261

some head. Suckers must be destroyed the instant they
appear, and the stem ought also to be clean to the bottom;
therefore rub off all buds that push out anywhere about the
stem. Im this form the Lilac tree may then be planted
among evergreen shrubs, which will completely hide the stem,
while it takes up scarcely any room. There is no art in
growing the bushes, for the suckers have only to be cut down
to about three or four eyes from the ground at the first
planting, and the season’s growth will form a bush.
SYRINGA. See PuitapELpuus.
TABERNAMONTANA. [Apocynacee.] Evergreen stove
shrubs, some of which, the popular ones, are much like
the Gardenia, or Cape Jasmine: the scent is the same, and
the foliage alike. Cuttings taken from the ends of unbloom-
ing shoots will strike in sand on sandy peat earth, and covered
with a bell-glass. A dung-bed is preferable to any other
place while the plants are young. When they have struck
they may go through a course of regular potting, beginning
with small ones, three inches over, and changing from time to
time as they advance in size. While they are young any
bloom-buds that appear may be cut out, because flowering
always arrests the growth of a plant; but if the plants are in
a private collection, then it may be more desirable they
should bloom small than make a more rapid growth. When
they have made their growth for the season, and begin to
rest, they must be put in a cool part of the hothouse, and
have no water except just to keep them from dying. As soon
as the season of growth arrives they want moist heat, and the
dung-bed is the best if room can be there made for them.
The popular kind is 7’. coronaria, of which there is also a
double variety, both bearing white flowers about July.
TACSONIA. [Passifloracee.] Beautiful evergreen climb-
ing plants, so nearly allied to Passion-flowers that many
persons have wondered at their separation. J’. pinnatistipula,
with all the habit of the Passion-flower, has beautiful rose-
coloured flowers. It requires greenhouse culture, and grows
very fast unless starved ; indeed, a plant of it will cover a
small cottage front on being planted out of doors in the
spring, and in a mild autumn it will bloom before the frost
cuts it down. It is propagated by cuttings, which root well

262 GLENNY'’S HANDBOOK

in sandy soil. Loam and peat in equal quantities form e
proper compost for it. ‘The cuttings, when rooted, should be
potted off, and only changed from small to larger pots when
the roots actually fill them, because it is desirable to check as
much as possible the growth of store plants. For pot culture
they are mostly too large, as they do not flower freely without
having previously made extensive growth. When planted in
the conservatory border they will half cover the place with rosy
blossoms. They are admirable conservatory climbers. 7’,
manicata, crimson ; T’. mollissima, rose ; and T’. pinnatistipula,
pink, are the chief varieties.

TAGETES. [Composite.] This genus contains the
French and African Marigolds, both well-known and showy
annual flowers. ‘These plants have long been favourites in
gardens, and both have greatly improved under careful culti-
vation, so that the fine double varieties of each are really
splendid objects. The African is of a rich golden colour, and
very large. The French is of a rich brown, dark or light, but
variously blotched or edged with bright golden yellow: in a
large number of seedlings scarcely two will give flowers alike,
and, indeed, on the same plant it is difficult to find two in all
respects identical. Both kinds are raised from seed, and to
get them early they should be sown in heat about March.
When they germinate they must have plenty of air to prevent
their becoming drawn up. Plant the French sort out towards
the middle of May about three in a patch, because the
diversity of colour assists by its contrasts in producing a good
effect. This, however, does not apply to the African sort,
which may be put out singly, because they are not variegated,
and also because they are larger, and one plant makes show
enough ina place. When the French Marigold is planted
out in a bed it is very gaudy, and the numberless varieties in
the mixture of only two colours, brown and yellow, is wonder-
ful, the differences merely consisting in the blotching, edging,
and general marking of the flowers. All single and semi-
double ones ought to be pulled up and thrown away the instant
they can be detected; and if choice ones are prized it is very
desirable that this should be carried out through all the
borders, as well as in the seed-bed, which every one should
have for the purpose of saving seed. Besides those sown in

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 263

heat, others should be sown in the open ground to form a
succession ; for, although the first will keep blooming until
the frost cuts them off, younger ones coming in are more
compact plants, and the removal of the overgrown ones makes
a change in the features of the garden. The German seeds-
men affect to sell several headed of Marigolds, but a pinch
of seed from a good double flower will give all of them in one
patch. There is another annual kind which should find a
place in all gardens, for its neat and elegant foliage, its rich
orange flowers, and its compact and profusely-flowering habit ;
it is the 7’. tenuifolia, sold in seed-shops as 7’. signata. ‘The
flowers are small compared even with the French Marigold,
and they are single; but in soil not too rich the plants form
closely-branched compact bushes, and are literally covered
with blossoms, which in the mass have a very charming
effect. J’. lucida, a pretty perennial, is propagated by divi-
sion, and requires some protection in winter.

TAMARIX. Tamarisx. [Tamaricacee.] Hardy shrubs
in peat. Common soil. Cuttings. The Tamarisk is one of
the best plants for withstanding the influence of the sea
breeze.

TAXUS. Yew. [Taxaceew.] Fine evergreen shrubs or
trees. Deep loamy soil. Cuttings in a shady border, or seeds.

THA TREE. See Tura.

TECOMA. {[Bignoniacee.] A genus of elegant tubular-
flowered plants, consisting of both evergreen and deciduous
shrubs and climbers. ’. radicans and its varieties are
beautiful hardy deciduous climbers, very ornamental against
a wall or a house; they grow well in good rich loam, and are
propagated by layers: the plants should be pruned much in
the same way as the vine. The greenhouse kinds grow best
in a mixture of loam and peat, and propagate freely by
cuttings placed in a gentle heat. T. Capensis, T. grandifiora,
flower orange. 1’. jasminoides, flowers white, with rose centre.

TELLIMA. [Saxifragacee.| Hardy perennials. Sandy
loam and peat. Division.

TELOPEA. Warratan. [Proteaceze.] <A splendid green-
house evergreen shrub, rarely, however, made to blossom.
Sandy loam and peat. Cuttings of ripe shoots in sand under
a bell-glass.

264 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

TEMPLETONIA. [Leguminosea, § Papilionacer.] Green-
house evergreen shrubs. Fibry peat. Cuttings in sand under
a bell-glass. J’. retusa and 7’. glauca both have crimson flowers
in May. i

TETRAGONOLOBUS. [Leguminose, § Papilionacez. |
Chiefly hardy annuals. Common soil. Seeds. T. purpureus,
flowers dark purple.

TETRANEMA. [Scrophulariacee.| A pretty herbaceous
evergreen stove plant. It should be potted in a compost of
loam, peat, and leaf-mould in equal parts; and if kept rather
dry and warm during winter, and gently excited in spring, it
will grow and blossom in a close greenhouse for a great part
of the summer. It ripens seed freely, by which it may be
propagated: the seed may be sown as soon as ripe, and kept
in a warm greenhouse or pit. 7’. Mewicana, flowers purple.

TETRATHECA. [Tremandracee.}| Slender and very
pretty greenhouse evergreen shrubs, one species of which,
T’. verticillata, is often erroneously called Tremandra Hugelit.
They are evergreen shrubs from New Holland, and require
to be cultivated in the greenhouse. They should have a
compost of rather sandy fibry peat, with about a fourth
part light loam added. Cuttings root in sand under bell-
glasses. The young plants must be frequently topped to
force them into bushy growth. They are very impatient of
overdoses of water, especially in winter, though, like all
shrubs grown in peat, drought is equally fatal.

TEUCRIUM. Grrmanper. [Lamiacez.| A considerable
group of hardy and greenhouse herbaceous plants and dwarf
evergreen sub-shrubs. Common dryish sandy soil. Division
or cuttings.

THALICTRUM. Meavow Ruz. [Ranunculacee.] Hardy
herbaceous perennials, worth growing in a mixed border for
the sake of their pretty compound foliage, but having rather
insignificant blossoms. They grow freely i in common garden
soil, and are increased by division of the ‘plant.

THEA. Tea Tree. [Ternstrémiacee.] A genus closely
related to Camellia, having, like that, large leathery leaves,
but not like that producing conspicuous flowers. The plants
are interesting in gardens from their commercial associations.
T. viridis is the principal source of the best teas. TT’. bohea

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 265

furnishes an inferior quality. J’. Assamica is a stronger-grow-
ing species, whose quality seems to be as coarse as its ap-
pearance. These plants form pretty evergreen shrubs ; they
are half-hardy, blooming about as large as pear-blossoms ;
and their treatment is like that of the Camellia. They are
propagated by cuttings, struck from the last year’s wood,
with two joints, one put underground aud one above—the one
to root, the other to branch; but as these are not wanted in
great number in England, being only grown for curiosity,
the ends of shoots are taken so as to form a pretty little
plant directly it grows. They are also raised from seed by
sowing in pans, and placing them in the greenhouse till they
come up, when they may be first pricked out three or four
in a pot, and then potted one in a pot, which has to be
changed to larger ones as they grow.

THERMOPSIS. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] 7.
fabacea is a pretty hardy perennial worth cultivating. It
should have a light rich soil, and generally produces ripe seeds,
by which it is best propagated: the seedlings take a couple
of years to grow to a blooming size.

THIBAUDIA. [Vacciniaceze.}] Evergreen shrubs, some
of great beauty, cultivable in a greenhouse. Fibry peat and
loam. Cuttings in sand of half-ripe shoots in heat under a
bell-glass will root freely.

THOMASIA. [Byttneriacee.]| Greenhouse hard-wooded
evergreen shrubs of a peculiar aspect, easily cultivated, and
forming a pretty variety in a mixed collection. They in-
crease by cuttings in sand under bell-glasses, and grow in
turfy peat soil, with about a third part of sandy loam added.
The plants should be rather closely topped and frequently
repotted while young, to encourage growth, and to produce
bushiness of habit; but when a foot or so in height they
may be allowed to progress more slowly, and will flower
abundantly.

THRIFT. See Anmerta.

THUJA. Arpor-vir#. ([Conifere.] These are among
the best of evergreen shrubs for the shrubbery, or as specimen
plants on lawns. 1’. orientalis, the Chinese Arbor-vite, is
well known, and is admired for its close cone-shaped outline.
T. occidentalis, the American Arbor-vite, has the same habit,

266 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

but is of looser growth. There is another elegant hardy
species, called 7’. plicata, not uncommon in gardens; and one
much rarer, the 7’. pendula, which has long slender drooping
twigs, and is a most singular and very ornamental small tree.
The commoner sorts grow well in any moderately favourable
situation, preferring a somewhat moist but not marshy situ-
ation. They are best raised from seeds sown in April in a
frame or covered bed. YT. pendula should be kept drier, and
is increased by grafts or cuttings.

THUNBERGIA. [Acanthaces.] Stove evergreen climbers.
They thrive best in a mixture of turfy loam, peat, and rotted
dung; but the best of them, 7. alata and its varieties, being
very liable to attacks of red spider, are best raised from seeds,
and treated like tender annuals, only they require a trellis on
which to train their branches. 1. alata aurantiaca is the
best, this having deep orange blossoms, with a black centre.
T. alata alba, with white flowers and a black centre, is also
very pretty, and there are several others. ‘The colour of T.
alata itself is buff yellow, witha black centre. The varieties all
bloom throughout the summer, and at that season are splendid
objects in a greenhouse if well managed: they may also be
grown out of doors in sheltered places, preferring moist peat
soil. ‘This, as well as the other species, strikes freely; and
cuttings in sand under a bell-glass with a little bottom-heat
are rooted ina short time. Let these be potted off in the
smallest-sized pots, and any stray bloom-buds be picked off
until the plant has grown so as to acquire some strength.
Blooming takes away the strength a good deal, and the plants
are better grown quickly than otherwise, which, indeed,
appears its natural disposition. As soon as the small roots
grow through the hole at the bottom of the pot let them be
changed into a size larger, and the end of the main shoot may
be taken off to produce lateral branches. When they have
been shifted into six-inch pots some kind of trellis should be
provided for them, and their tender shoots carefully guided to
cover it: all this time they are to be in the stove, and near
to the light. Let them frequently have the benefit of
syringing the foliage, which is a check to the red spider, and
continue to pick off the flower-buds till the plant has nearly
covered the trellis, when they may be allowed to open.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN, 26%

The seeds may be sown in March in wide-mouthed pots, and.
as soon as the plants are large enough, potted off into the
smallest-sized pots, to be treated the same as cuttings.

THYMUS. Tuyme. {[Lamiacee.| Hardy evergreen
perennials and sub-shrubs. Sandy loam. Divisions or cut-
tings. Many of them are beautiful rock plants.

THYSANOTUS. [Liliacee.| Greenhouse herbaceous
perennials, with pretty flowers. Sandy loam and _ peat.
Seeds or division. They must not be over-watered. during
winter.

TIARELLA. [Saxifragacee.] Hardy perennials. Com-
mon dryish soil. Division.

TIGRIDIA. Tiger Frower. [Iridacee.] One of the
most showy and remarkable of flowers, but at the same time
one of the most fugitive: the flowers last but a few hours,
but there is a good succession of them produced. They are
hardy bulbous-rooted plants, with the flowers large, singular],
formed, like a cocked hat reversed, and beautifully spottec
with a darker colour upon a yellow or deep orange-colourec
ground. The two so-called species are very similar in all bu.
having a darker or lighter ground colour. ‘The flowers lasi
but the day they come out if the sun is pretty hot, which it
generally is when they flower, in June. They do not grow
more than a few inches high, and should be planted in a
mass, because there will then be a number of flowers open for
“some time. When planted singly that is not the case, for
there will be days when a plant will have none, and that, too,
before it is out of bloom altogether. Plant them in early
spring, say March, three inches deep, and take them up in
the autumn; or, if they are left out, throw litter over them,
for though called hardy they will not-stand frost. Increased
by offsets.

TILE ROOT. See Gertssoruiza.

TOAD FLAX. See Linaria.

TOBACCO. See Nicotiana.

TODEA. [Osmundacezr.| Greenhouse ferns. Turfy
peat. Division or spores, but not easily propagated. 7.
Africana and T’. pellucida are the principal.

TORCH THISTLE. See Crrevs.

TORENIA. [Scrophulariacee.| The most ornamental

268 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

species of this genus is 7’. Asiatica, a trailing herbaceous-
stemmed perennial, bearing through great part of the year a
profusion of beautiful porcelain-blue flowers, with dark purple
blotches. It is propagated by cuttings, which strike readily
in a little heat, and when rooted should be potted into a rich
open compost of rough peat, loam, and leaf-mould, equal
parts, with a little sand added, and shifted on into larger pots
as soon as the roots thicken among the soil. In winter it
should have a cool position in a stove, and in summer may be
placed in the greenhouse, where it should be kept cool, moist,
and somewhat shaded. In some sheltered situations it will
succeed out of doors in summer, but not generally.

TORREYA. [Taxacee.] Evergreen shrubs. Deep
loamy soil. Cuttings or seeds. The chief are 7. myristica
and 7’. taxifolia.

TOUCH-ME-NOT. See Impattens.

TOURNEFORTIA. ([Ehretiacee.] TT. heliotropioides
is a Heliotrope-like hardy or nearly hardy plant, not very
showy, but a very free bloomer, and useful for small beds.
It will grow in the open borders, and in all mild winters will
not be destroyed; but a plant or two should be kept in a
frame through the winter m case of severe weather, which
might destroy it. It is increased either by seeds sown in
May or by cuttings, and is a low plant, flowering from May
to August.

TRADESCANTIA. Sprperwort. [Commelinacere.] The
hardy perennial species of this genus are adapted for the
common borders. They are readily increased by division,
and only require to be planted in the common soil, and left
undisturbed till they get too large, when they must be taken
up and divided. ‘The tender species are of less moment,
except J’. discolor, a curious stove species, and 7’. iridescens, a
pretty dwarf free-blooming greenhouse herb.

TREE PEONY. See Moovran.

TREFOIL See Trirotium.

TRICHOMANES. Bristte Fern. [Hymenophyllacee. ]
Beautiful ferns, inhabiting the tropics for the most part.
Very moist rocky, and therefore well-drained soil, with a
constant supply of moisture, and a close moist atmo-
sphere. The species propagate by division. They just

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN, 269

suit closed glass cases. The best are T. radicans and T. reni-
orme.

TRICHONEMA. [Iridacer.] Hardy or half-hardy
Crocus-like bulbs, worth cultivating. Sandy loam. Offsets.
‘They are best grown in pots in frames, or in very sheltered
borders.

TRIDENTEA. See Srape.sa.

TRIFOLIUM. Trerort, or Cover. [Leguminose,
§ Papilionaces.} Hardy herbs, many of which are annuals
or biennials, and a large number perennials. They are not of
much value as garden plants. 7’. incarnatum, with its scarlet
flower-heads, is showy; and 7. uniflorum is a very pretty
minute perennial species, deserving a place among alpines.
The annuals may be sown in March im the places where
they are to Hower. The perennials need. only to be planted
in ordinary soil, and divided and reduced when the patches
have grown too large for the positions they occupy. Com-
mon soil.

TRILLIUM. [Melanthacee.| Curious small hardy herba-
ceous plants. The stem has three leaves, and the flower
three petals. These, therefore, considering the diminutive
size of the whole structure (scarcely six inches in height), and
the singularity of their form, may be said to be more curious
than beautiful, but they are interesting. Though hardy,
they require pot culture to be seen to advantage. They are
tuberous-rooted perennials, and propagate but slowly by
dividing the roots; but they may be raised from seed, which
is inclosed in a berry. This may be sown in pans, and be
raised in a frame, and pricked out three or four in a pot to
grow, and, lastly, potted singly into sixty-sized pots. All
those curious in plants should grow them, though, like many
other curious plants, they are greatly neglected. They flower
very early in spring, and grow best in peat soil.

TRIPTILION. [Composite.] The genus contains a
beautiful greenhouse perennial. Soil, sandy peat. Increased
by division. The plant is impatient of over-watering, espe-
cially in winter. 7’. spinosum, flowers blue, in July.

TRITOMA. [lLiliacew.] Beautiful hardy or half-hardy
herbaceous plants, requiring a light dry soil and warm or
sheltered situation, in which they produce their upright

270 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

spikes of drooping scarlet tubes freely in the autumnal
months. They should have a border under shelter of a wall,
and the soil should be sandy. They throw out suckers from

Pd . .
their roots. by which they may be increased. They are some-
times called Kniphofia. The following are the best :—
T. Burchellti, T. pumila, T. Rooperit. T. uvaria is a fine
plant. All bear orange flowers.

TRITONIA. [Tridacexe.} Showy bulbous plants, closely
allied to Ixia, and requiring very similar management. T’.
aurea, with orange-coloured flowers, treated like the better
kinds of Gladiolus, makes a splendid bed in the flower garden.
They are mostly very well adapted for pot culture.

TROLLIUS. Grose Fiower. [Ranunculaceze.] Showy
herbaceous perennials, quite hardy, growing in ordinary
garden soil, and increased easily by parting the roots during
the dormant season.

TROMOTRICHE. See Srapetta.

TROPASOLUM. Iwnpran Cress. [Tropeolacee.] Soft-
stemmed climbing herbs, mostly ornamental, sometimes splen-
did, part of which are annual, and others perennial, having
tuberous roots. JZ. majus, the common Nasturtium, as it is
called erroneously in gardens, and its varieties, may be sown
in the open ground in March, where it is to bloom and bear
through the summer, and requires neither care nor attention.
These are beautiful plants everywhere, in rich ground
covering the surface with foliage and flowers, or climbing up
stakes and hiding unsightly fences or other objects, or potted
and placed on the window-sill, where the burning heat and
limited food arrest their vegetation, but add profusion to the
blossoms and intensity to their colours. 7’. minus 1s smaller,
but equally effective in its way. The double orange-coloured
variety of T. majus is a greenhouse plant, as is also the double
scarlet Nasturtium, which is the double-flowered variety of
T. minus. They are increased by cuttings, and preserved,
like other half-hardy things, in the greenhouse during winter
for planting out in summer, where, in hot dry situations,
they are really splendid. ”. tricolor and its varieties, 7’. pen-
taphyllum, T. brachyceras, and T. azureum, are favourites
among the tuberous climbing species, and can only be grown
successfully upon proper trellises, or with adequate support.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. Q71

The tubers must. be potted in sand, loam, with a third of leaf-
mould, and placed in the greenhouse in the full light. This
is best done about February; but they sometimes commence
crowth in autumn, and, if so, must not be checked. As they
send up their thread-like shoots provision must be made for
their support by placing a trellis, over which the stems are
to be from time to time carefully trained. The plants will
require air and a moderate supply of water; and after they
have fairly begun to grow, and before they are trellised, they
should be placed in the pot they are to fill, which, if the tuber
is a strong one, should be not less than ten or twelve inches
across. 1’. pentaphyllum is hardy if planted deep in light rich
soil in a sheltered place, such as near a wall; and 7’. speciosum
may be similarly treated, and is very beautiful. These two
are now referred to Chymocarpus. ‘There is another group
containing several ornamental species —tender perennial
plants, without tuberous roots, mostly blooming in winter,
and requiring to be often renewed from cuttings. Of this
T. Lobbianum is an example. It must be kept in mind that
they all require plenty of air, moderate but careful watering,
plenty of drainage, and watchfulness, as the shoots grow, to
place them as they should grow upon the trellis, otherwise
shoots will twine round each other, instead of distributing
themselves properly on the wirework ; and when they once
get matted it is very difficult to untwine and release them.

TRUMPET FLOWER. See Bienonta.

TUBEROSE. See PottantueEs.

TULIPA. Ture. [Liliacee.| Hardy and very showy
bulbs. The variegated Tulips of the gardens are the progeny
of T. Gesneriana: these flowers are grown in collections, and
have a noble effect. The bulbs are planted in October or
November, shoot above ground in February, and bloom in
May. ‘They grow in nothing so well as in plain good sandy
loam, taken from a pasture with the turf rotted in it; and it
is the custom to dig out the bed from two to three feet deep,
that this soil may be placed therein. They are planted six
inches apart, the bed being four feet wide, and containing
seven flowers across. The tallest flowers, which are known
well to the fanciers, are planted in the centre row; those a
little shorter in the rows next to the middle; and the shortest

O72 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

outside; so that the Tulip-bed, when in flower, looks like a
bank of bloom. The small offsets are planted in separate
beds until they grow large enough to plant in the principal
beds. ‘They are raised from seed to produce new varieties,
and they multiply by offsets, which come of themselves. The
seeds may be sown in pans or wide-mouthed pots in the early
spring or the autumn, and placed in a garden frame: they
will come up, and about June turn yellow and die down, but
little bulbs will have formed. Some take them up and replant
them, but if they are not too thick they may be left until the
next year. They will be five or six years before they bloom,
aud then perhaps only show one colour, instead of being
striped; they are then called breeders, and may bloom of self-
colours some years before they break into stripes. ‘They are
an imposing flower, and when very good will bear a high price
until the sort is widely propagated. The early Tulips are
becoming numerous, rich in their varied colours, and truly
valuable as spring flowers. ‘Thirty or forty varieties may be
found sufficiently distinct to be seen at a distance, but they
are only border flowers. The Van Thol Tulip, a distinct
early sort, is the 7’. swaveolens: this blooms naturally in April,
and is very well adapted for forcing even much earlier than
this. Few of the other species are cultivated except as
curiosities.

TUTSAN. See AnpRos&mumM.

TWEEDIA. [Asclepiadacee.] Greenhouse perennial
twiners, with neat pretty flowers. They are raised from cut-
tings in sand under a bell-glass, with a little bottom heat.
When the cuttings have struck root they should be potted
in three-inch pots, in a compost of two parts sandy loam and
ene part turfy peat, with proper drainage, made with broken
potsherds one-fourth up the pot. The pots may be placed
out of doors in the summer time in the shade, where their
roots cannot strike through into the ground. The plants
must be topped to make them throw out lateral shoots, and
when the first pots are full of roots they may be planted in
pots eight inches across, and the proposed trellis or support
on which they are to grow may be put to them: an upright
pillar is as good as anything, formed of wire, and the plant
should be trained round and round it. The bloom will come

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 273

in bunches at the end of every shoot. A dry frame or pit will
protect them in winter. The only ones cultivated are ‘l’. flort-
bunda and T. versicolor.

ULEX. Furzs. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Every
one knows the common form of this wild prickly shrub, with
its golden blossoms, “‘ unprofitably gay.” Even this plant
has few rivals in the wilderness scenery, sometimes added to
modern pleasure-grounds; but still richer is the double-
flowered variety, which deserves a place in the foreground of
all shrubberies, no less on account of its perpetual verdure
than of its blossoms. U. nana is a dwarf trailing smaller kind,
equally showy, and well adapted for planting on rough rock-
work on a large scale. These plants cannot be said to require
culture ; they grow anywhere, and ou any soil, which for the
dwarf kind cannot be too poor. The double one is propagated
by cuttings, planted in a shady border under a hand-light ;
the others are raised from seeds. The common Furze is
sometimes used for fences.

ULMUS. Em. [Ulmacee.] Hardy deciduous timber
trees for the most part. Deep dry sandy loam. The common
sorts by seeds, layers, or grafts; the varieties by grafting.
The most ornamental are the variegated and the drooping.

UVULARIA. [Melanthacee.| Neat dwarf hardy herba-
ceous perennials. They grow with ordinary attention in
the common soil of gardens, preferring a cool situation, with-
out stagnant moisture, and are propagated by division.

VACCINIUM. Wuorrteserry. [Vacciniacee.}| Hardy
deciduous or sometimes evergreen shrubs, mostly ornamental.
Sandy loam or peat. Suckers or layers. There are many
species in cultivation.

VALERIANA. Vaterian. ([Valerianacee.] Hardy
perennials, some of which are pretty, but not remarkably
ornamental. They may all be grown in the open border in
ordinary garden soil, and the smaller ones also in pots among
collections of alpine plants. They increase readily by division
of the plants.

VALLISNERIA. ([Hydrocharacee.] A curiosity worth
the attention of all garden amateurs. It is an aquatic, and is
one of the many subjects of deep interest which nature offers
to the contemplative mind, without any of the attractions

?

Q74 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

conventionally styled beauty. It may be grown in the window
of a living-room, planted in a deep clear glass cylinder, the
root being fixed among some loamy soil at the bottom, and
the glass kept filled with clear water, which should be changed
or overflowed about once a week. The plant grows entirely
under water, except its tiny flowers, which, attached to the
roots by long thread-like spirally-turned stalks, just reach the
surface to develope themselves. The species is V. spiralis:
it may be grown in a hothouse or greenhouse, or in the open
cistern, or in a window, with equal facility.

VALLOTA. [Amaryllidacee.] Beautiful greenhouse
bulbs. Sandy loam, peat. and leaf-mould. Offsets. They
require the treatment of Cyrtanthus and Amaryllis. The
one cultivated is V. purpurea.

VENUS’S FLY-TRAP. See Dionma.

VENUS’S LOOKING-GLASS. See Sprcunarta.

VERBASCUM. Mutter. ([Scrophulariacee.] Large
spiry-growing hardy perennials, strikingly effective in large
borders or towards the margins of shrubberies. They are
easily- -grown plants, thriving in any garden soil, and merely
requiring to be sown where they are to bloom, the duplicate
plants in each patch being thinned away, leaving only the
strongest. ‘The seeds should be sown about June in one year
to produce flowering plants for the next season. They are
mostly biennials, and young plants should therefore be raised
from seeds annually. The perennials are increased both by
seeds and division. They are mostly yellow. V. alopecurus,
V. blattaria, V. formosum, V. grandiflorum, V. phaeniceum,
flowers purple, and V. spectabile, flowers yellow and purple.

VERBENA. Vervatn. [Verbenacee.| Beautiful flower-
garden plants. The genus consists for the most part of
perennial species, requiring protection during winter: an in-
digenous species is a mere weed. JV. venosa is nearly hardy,
an upright-growing plant, bearing purplish rose-coloured
_ flowers: this propagates readily by parting its creeping
underground stems. The race of half-hardy Verbenas has
given rise to those fine seminal varieties which are now
during summer to be seen decorating every garden. VJ.
Melindres or chamedrifolia was one of the first favourites, but,
like most of the other species, it has been lost amid the more

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 975

beautiful sorts that have sprung up under the florist’s care.
It is the creeping habit, however, and abundant bloom of V.
Melindres, which have given much of their value to the florists’
seedlings ; their size, aud the more erect habit and fragrance
observable in recent varieties, having been derived from J.
teucrioides. ‘The Verbena strikes freely under a bell-glass in
light sandy soil, and very quickly in a mild hotbed; and it
grows freely in any rich light soil—consequently most flower
gardens agree with it. New varieties are raised from seeds.
The seeds should be sown in pans, and placed in a greenhouse
or frame; the young seedlings at first pricked out into pots,
half a dozen in a pot; and after that planted out in beds six
inches apart, uutil it is seen what flowers they produce, when
such as are worthy may be propagated. ‘There is not a better
plant for flower-beds and borders at present in cultivation.
In geometrical gardens those which approach nearest to the
admirable habit of V. Melindres—which creeps along the
ground, spreading and rooting at every joint, until it covers a
bed like a carpet, and throws up its umbels or trusses of
flowers all over its allotted space—should be selected.
Whiges, lilacs, deep purples, reds, and pinks of all shades
abound in this brilliant family. In planting a geometrical
garden uniformity of colour should be kept in view: thus, if
a parterre be formed of twenty-four beds, these consisting of
four sorts of figures, six of each kind, then three of that six
should be of one colour, and three of another—say three
scarlet and three white; in the next six, three pink and three
dark purple. The other twelve beds may be made up of
annuals or perennials of other kinds; but four distinct
colours of Verbena cannot be surpassed, for the length of
time they are in bloom, by anything that can be selected.
Bright blues and bright yellows can be furnished by other
things; but scarlet and white, flesh colour, or pink or deep
purple, cannot be furnished by any tribe of plants so well as
the Verbena, because they are as close to the ground as a
carpet, and last in full bloom for months. Cuttings put in in
the autumn will make splendid plants for turning out in the
early spring ; but when a stock of plants has not been secured,
or the supply is diminished by losses in winter, a few plants
put in heat in February will soon supply cuttings, which

276 GLENNY S HANDBOOK

strike in a few days in a hotbed, and may there be allowed to
grow long enough to use their tops as cuttings before being
potted, this process being repeated as often as necessary to
make up the supply. The smallest portions serve for cut-
tings. Such plants require a good deal of nursing, and to be
perfectly hardened before being planted out.

VERONICA. Sprepwetu. ([Scrophulariaceer.] A very
large genus, consisting almost entirely of hardy perennials.
About a score are insignificant annuals; some half-dozen are
shrubs requiring greenhouse protection; and the rest are
hardy perennials, most of the larger growing of which are
adapted for the mixed borders, and are really showy with
their long narrow close spikes of flowers, usually blue.
These latter may be said to require no culture; they grow
with the greatest. facility in garden soil of any description ;
increase extensively, if required, by partition of the roots ;
and live through all the inclemencies of winter and the
droughts of summer without suffering material detriment.
There is a great sameness in the appearance of many of them,
and they are probably mere natural hybrids. The green-
house shrubby species—of which V. speciosa, V. formosa, V.
variegata, aud V. Andersonit are the most desirable—are
multiplied by cuttings planted in sandy soil, and placed in a
gentle heat, and the plants should be potted into rich light
loamy compost. The necessary bushiness and compactness
of growth are given to them by the usual process of continued
topping till the desired form is obtained. These shrubby
kinds succeed well in many situations, planted out for the
summer months; but they are not strictly ‘“ bedding-out ”
subjects. In mild winters they will survive at the foot of a
wall in a warm aspect.

VERVAIN. See VERBENA.

VIBURNUM. ([Caprifoliacee.] A genus consisting for
the most part of hardy shrubs, including the Laurestinus and
the Guelder Rose. The Guelder Rose, V. opulus, is very
familiar in shrubberies: the bloom is white, in bunches that
form complete balls, and, being abundant, is very effective.
This is generally propagated from suckers, which come up,
like those of the Lilac, very freely ; they should be taken up
any time after the fall of the leaf, before the buds begin to

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. Ot1

swell, and be planted out in rows, about eighteen inches from
plant to plant, and two feet between the rows, forming
nursery-beds ; and, as they are generally grown into bushes,
they should be cut down to three or four inches high. Their
first growth should be regulated, so that they do not grow
out of form; thus, if any shoots are too vigorous, or are
growing awkwardly, the ends should be taken off, to keep
them within bounds and help forward the rest. If any of
them are to be formed into standards the straightest and
tallest should be selected, and planted by themselves, and
pruned to a single stem. When these begin to start all the
buds must be rubbed off, except the three or four nearest the
top; the leader will shoot up a good deal faster for pre-
venting the side-shoots from robbing it of nourishment, and
as it grows on, more side branches will come; but the
bottom branches may be cut off close, so long as three or
four shoots can be left. When the plant is tall enough the
top may be cut out, to encourage side growth at the top, but
not down the stem, where the buds must always be rubbed
off as soon as they come. There is a great variety of species,
but few are so handsome as the Guelder Rose, except its
evergreen congener, the Laurestinus. V. macrocephalum and
V. plicatum are, however, fine showy shrubs. Rich loamy
soil. Layers, cuttings, or suckers.

Vipurnum TiNus (LavrEstinus).—This is one of the best
of cultivated garden shrubs, being evergreen, free-growing,
free-blooming, of handsome appearance at all times, and
flowering in winter. It is open to but one objection, and
that is that it is sometimes injured by severe frosts. The
Laurestinus is generally seen as a dwarf bushy evergreen
shrub. It is mostly raised from cuttings, though some-
times from layers. The cuttings are taken in autumn, and
planted in sandy soil in a north border; or, what is safer, they
are planted in deep seed-pans, which are plunged where they
can be readily sheltered in case of very severe weather. They
become well rooted during the next summer, and by the fol-
lowing spring may be planted out in rows eighteen inches
apart, by six or eight inches in the row. From this position
they may be removed, after twelve months’ growth, to where
they are to remain. They require no particular soil.

-

278 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK

VICIA. Vetcu. {[Leguminose,§ Papilionacee.] Hardy
annuals or perennials. Common soil. Seeds or division.

VIEUSSEUXIA. [Iridacee.] Beautiful bulbous plants,
requiring the treatment of Ixia. Peat and loam. Offsets.

VILLARSIA. [Gentianacee.] Aquatic perennials, hardy
or half hardy. Rich loam; shallow water; protection in
winter for the exotics. Increased by division.

VINCA. PrriwiInKLE. [Apocynacee.] Pretty hardy
shrubby plants, always dwarf and evergreen, all of trailing
habit, and well adapted for covering the surface of the ground
in shady situations where little else will live. They are
increased at pleasure by separating the rooted trailing shoots.
Common soil. The best are V. herbacea, V. major, and
V. minor. ‘There is a variety with variegated leaves.

VIOLA. Viorzr. [Violacee.] <A large genus of pretty
herbaceous plants, almost all of which are hardy. The first
to be mentioned is the Sweet Violet, V. odorata, of which the
common Wild forms should be planted in abundance in every
shrubbery, for the sake of the supply of their odoriferous
blossoms. For general cultivation the varieties known as
the Neapolitan, the Russian, and the Tree Violet are the best.
The Russian is quite hardy, and requires only to be planted
in rich soil, which must be renewed, in part at least, annually.
The others need higher culture. To grow the Neapolitan
sort a bed of rich light soil must be made up, and about the
beginning of May the old plants must be divided into two,
three, or more. according to their size. These young plants
are put out, and carefully watered, when necessary, through
the summer, and are either allowed to bloom in these beds,
some protection being afforded them to keep off heavy rains
and frost, or they are taken up about the end of September,
potted, and the pots kept in a cold dry frame during winter,
with such other protection as the season renders necessary. :
They may be forced in frames by the application of gentle
heat, and by this means it is no unusual thing with the
luxurious to have Violets all the winter. The ‘Tree Violet ”
is a double-flowered dark variety, which, if kept trained to
a single stem, acquires the appearance of a miniature tree.
This requires to be grown as a hardy plant in frames, the
soil being turfy loam, decomposed cowdung, and leaf-mould

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 279

in equal parts. To secure the tree-like habit the crown of
vigorous young plants must be encouraged to push upwards
by the removal of all lateral growth, otherwise this variety
spreads out its runners just like other Violets. ‘There are
several other varieties of the Sweet Violet, but these are the
best. The whole genus, with one or two tender exceptions,
are worth cultivating as hardy perennials. ‘They grow very
freely in good garden soil, preferring loam moderately rich.
Increased by division. Those which grow with stems, like
the Heartsease or Pansy, should be frequently renewed from
cuttings, which should, moreover, be as far as possible the
young shoots from the root, in preference to the tips of the
older shoots.

VioLta taico.or (Pansy)—The numerous varieties of
this popular flower, frequently called Heartsease, originated
from the common three-coloured Violet. Like the varieties of
the Pink, these require to be constantly renewed by striking
cuttings ; for, as may have been observed by many who have
grown them, the blooms come smaller and out of character as
the plants get larger and older. It is true there are more
flowers on the plants when they enlarge, but there is a great
alteration for the worse in their colours and forms. ‘The
ground in which they thrive most is good rich loam. They
should be grown in beds six inches apart every way. The
side-shoots make the best plants. ‘They should be stripped
off when they are two inches long, and they may be put
into the ground half their length, and covered with a hand-
glass. If the place be shady, so much the less trouble ; but if
not, the hand-glass must be covered so as to keep off the hot
sun: the cuttings must be kept well watered till rooted. To
have the Heartsease in perfection there should be a constant
supply of cuttings ; and when they are struck, which will be
seen by their beginning to grow, they should be very carefully
lifted, so as to break none of their fibres, and planted out
wherever they are to bloom, whether it be in the borders or
in beds, the evening after sunset being chosen for the job of
transplanting, because the plants have the benefit of all the
night to settle before the sun can hurt them. After they are
planted out they should be well watered. When the plants
get large cut them down close, and all the shoots that come

280 GLENNYS HANDBOOK

will make excellent cuttings. The Pansies, which are of all
sorts of colours, should be had in bloom all the year, except
in winter, a succession of young plants being raised for this
purpose.

VIRGINIAN STOCK. See Matcomra.

VIRGIN’S BOWER. See Ciematts.

VISCARIA. [Caryophyllacee.] A small genus allied
to Lychnis, containing some neat small-growing perennials,
as V. vulgaris, V. neglecta, V. alpina, and V. Helvetica, form-
ing pretty rock plants. These perennials are increased by
carefully dividing the dense tufts of branches which they
form, retaining a share of roots to each slip if possible, and
treating the divisions rather as cuttings than as plants, by
keeping them in a close frame until they begin to grow.
These like a very open soil, containing pounded bricks or old
mortar, or any substance of similar texture. The genus also
contains two very showy hardy annuals, V. ca@li-rosa and
V. oculata. These may be sown in the open borders with
other hardy annuals in March and April.

VITTADENIA. [Composite.} Half-hardy sub-shrubs.
Light loamy soil. Cuttings or seeds. V. triloba, flowers
pinkish.

VRIESIA. [Bromeliacee.] Showy stove perennials, with
the habit of Aichmea, and requiring to be cultivated in a
similar manner. JV. speciosa, the handsomest of the species
in cultivation, has the leaves marked with transverse black
bands, and bears its flowers in an upright spike, which ter-
minates in a two-ranked head of scarlet bracts, each of which
supports one white flower; the beauty of the plant, as is the
case in this genus, lies in the richly-coloured bracts.

WACHENDORPIA. [Liliacez.}] Fine greenhouse bulbs,
requiring the treatment of Watsonias. Loam and peat.
Offsets.

WALFENIA. [Scrophulariacee.] Hardy herbaceous
plants, requiring a dryish soil. Seeds and division. The
only one to grow is W. Amherstiane.

WALL CRESS _ See Arasis.

WALLFLOWER. See CHEIRANTHUS.

WALNUT. See Jucuays.

WARRATAH. See Tetopza.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 281

WATER LILY. See Nympuma.

WATER PLANTAIN. See Atisma.

WATER REED. See Arvunpo.

WATSONIA. [Iridacee.] Stout-growing greenhouse
bulbs of ornamental character. They should be treated like
the stronger-growing half-hardy Gladioli. Peat and loam.
Offsets.

WEIGELA. ([Caprifoliacee.}] Very handsome hardy
deciduous shrubs, adapted for planting against ornamental
walls. They are free-growing, striking readily from cuttings
or from layers, and grow vigorously in good garden soil. The
blossoms, at first white, but changing to rose pink, are pro-
duced, generally in great profusion, in spring upon the par-
tially bare branches, the development of the flowers being
coeval with the first growth of the leaf-buds. W. amabilis and
W. rosea flower pink. W. lutea blooms yellow.

WELLINGTONIA. ([Conifere.] A magnificent hardy
evergreen tree. Loam. Seeds. W. gigantea is the only one.

WHITLAVIA. [Hydrophyllacee.] Hardy annuals of
ornamental character. Rich light soil. Seeds. The one to
grow is W. grandiflora.

WHITLOW GRASS. See Draza.

WHORTLEBERRY. See Vacctnium.

WILLOW. See Satix.

WINDFLOWER. See AnEmoneE.

WINTER ACONITE. See Erantuts.

WINTER CHERRY. See Puysarts.

WISTARIA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.] Hardy
vigorous-growing deciduous climbers, of which two species
are frequent in gardens. The most beautiful of the two is
W. Sinensis, formerly named Glycine Sinensis, a perfectly hardy
climbing shrub, bearing long racemes of purplish-lilac flowers
before the foliage is produced. They grow very freely in rich
loamy soil. Young plants, when newly planted, are often of
slow growth; but as soon as they get established they grow
very rapidly, the annual shoots often extending twenty feet
in length. The flowers are, however, produced on spurs of
the old wood. It is generally grown on a south wall, and
early in the spring makes a show that eclipses most other
things near it. Horizontal training is the best for this plant ;

282 GLENNY’S HANDBOOK

in fact, it looks well when a single shoot is carried along
horizontally near the top of a wall, other plants being beneath
it. It forms a fine conservatory climber, and we have seen
a very good effect produced by training a single stem along
the upper angle of a span-roofed greenhouse. It is propa-
gated by layers, which root freely if pegged underground any
time during autumn. These may be taken off in the follow-
ing autumn, and potted, for the convenience of planting out
when fully established. While in pots, like many other more
hardy plants, it wants the protection of a frame in hard
weather, or the pots must be plunged to prevent the frost
penetrating the sides of the pot. ‘There is a white variety,
W. alba.

WITSENIA. [Tridacez.] Greenhouse shrubs of curious
appearance, having grass-like, or rather small Ivis-like leaves,
arranged in the same equitant manner. W. corymbosa is a
favourite among greenhouse plants. It multiplies fast by
offshoots from the base, and is not conspicuous until it has
spread to a good-sized potful. When required to be increased
small portions may be removed from the outside, so as scarcely
to be missed from the old plant; these are to be potted into
small pots, in three parts peat soil and one part sandy loam,
with a good drainage at the bottom of the pot; they should
be placed on a shelf near the glass, and as soon as their roots
fill the pots they should be removed to five-inch, and from
these to larger ones. They require, from the lightness of the
soil, rather close attention to the watering; and the plant
soon looks untidy if the dead leaves be not picked off as they
decay. Few plants are more carelessly treated than old
specimens of the Witsenia, and consequently they are rarely
seen in good order.

WOODBINE. See Lontcera.

WOODSIA. [Polypodiacee.] A small group of ferns,
containing two indigenous species of very small size, and
prized on account of their rarity. Some exotic species are
hardy, and desirable for rockwork. ‘They may all be grown
in turfy soil, and require to be kept free from stagnant
moisture about the crown of their roots. Propagated by
division. The principal ones grown are W. hyperborea, W.
Livensis, and W. obtusa.

TO THE FLOWER GARDEN. 283

WOOD SORREL. See Oxats.

WOODWARDIA. [Polypodiaces.] Hardy and deciduous
ornamental ferns. Peat and loam. Division. The chief are
W. onocleoides, W. radicans, and W. Virginica.

WORM GRASS. See Spier sta.

XERANTHEMUM. {[Composite.]. Hardy annuals of
the composite kind, now almost expelled from gardens by the
gayer annuals from California and elsewhere. ‘They must not
be confounded with the showy yellow and white everlasting
flowers, as they are called, which have been, and, indeed, now
are sometimes named Xeranthemum. They are among the
most easily cultivated of annuals, requiring only to be sown
about the end of March in the open border, and thinned out
for flowering. A succession may be sown a month later than
the first sowing if it is required.

YEW. See Taxus.

YUCCA. Apams Nerprie. ([Liliacee.] Fine exotic-
looking shrubs, most of them hardy; others require some
amount of protection. They are Aloe-like, with narrow leaves,
some growing up with an erect stem, which in time becomes
forked, and others-being almost stemless, the leaves growing
close to the ground. The flowering stem in all is erect,
bearing a close panicle of large cream-coloured drooping
Tulip-like blossoms. They all grow in loamy soil, and the
hardy kinds have a fine effect planted sparingly in prominent
positions on rockwork. The best are Y. draconis, Y. jila-
mentosa, Y. gloriosa, and Y. recurva.

ZAMIA. [Cycadacee.} A genus of remarkable-looking
plants, related both to palms and ferns, and exceedingly
interesting in a collection of plants. There are some few
greenhouse species. They require to be planted in light
sandy soil; and, as they often exist for a long time with but
little progress, the pots should be carefully drained and as
carefully watered. ‘

ZAUSCHNERIA. ([Onagracee.] Pretty half-hardy per-
ennial. It forms a densely-branched mass, bearing numerous
erect scarlet Fuchsia-like flowers, and is well suited for the
decoration of the flower garden during summer. It propa-
gates very freely from cuttings, or also by division, The old
plants require to be kept rather dry in winter. It may be

284 GLENNY'S HANDBOOK TO THE FLOWER GARDEN.

planted out in any moderately good garden soil, and requires
no subsequent culture beyond what is routine. Z. Californica
is the only one cultivated.

ZEA. Maize. [Graminee.} Stately grassy plants,
useful for effect. Common soil. Seeds reared in a gentle
heat, and planted out in May.

ZENOBIA. [Ericaceze.] Fine hardy shrubs, allied to
Andromeda, and requiring the same treatment. Peat soil.
Layers.

ZEPHYRANTHES. [Amaryllidacee.] Pretty dwarf
bulbs, nearly related to Amaryllis and Habranthus, and
requiring the same mode of culture. One or two kinds are
hardy.

ZICHYA. [Leguminose, § Papilionacee.} Handsome
greenhouse evergreen climbing shrubs, formerly named Ken-
nedya, and requiring the same culture as that genus. The
best are Z. coccinea, flowers scarlet; Z. pannosa, flowers
crimson ; Z. tricolor, flowers red, yellow, and purple ;
Z, villosa, flowers vermilion.

ZINNIA. [Composite.] A genus of Mexican annuals,
bearing flower-seeds of many different colours, seedling varie-
ties having become numerous. The most ornamental species
is Z. elegans, which grows best in peaty soil and in a cool
situation. The plant may be termed coarse, and is better
looking in moderate than in rich soil. The seed may be sown
in the open ground, or in heat, according to the time it is
desired to be in flower. When large enough it may be planted
out at once into beds a foot apart, or in the border three in a
patch. When seed has been saved from a single plant, and
none other has been near, the plants have come pretty con-
stant to the parent; but, generally speaking, in the seed that
is purchased we obtain all the colours from scarlet to light
pink and to dark crimson, and all the shades from dark
chocolate to light purple and lilac. It is a difficult matter to
produce, year after year, anything like constancy in annuals ;
for the only way is to destroy all others that can cross the
seed, or to isolate those for seeding so that nothing can reach
them. Muslin bags have been tried with some effect, but it
must be done very early.

285

JANUARY.

oe

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

By the commencement of the |
new year all our alterations, re- |

movals, turf laying, gravel making,
box edgings, and other ground-
work should be drawing to a close.
We do not deny that they can be
carried on far later; but an English
winter can be little depended on
for fine weather, and both wet
and frost in extreme will frustrate
our best endeavours. On this ac-
count we ought always to be ready
_ with our proper amount of labour in
October, and from that time until
all is done lose not a single fine
day. Again, as planting is always
a check upon trees, with all the
care we can use, the trees and
shrubs we require should never be
taken up till we are ready to plant
them ; for, in however few cases it
may be fatal, it is always more or
less injurious to keep the plants
out of the ground. No digging or
trenching can go on with advantage
in wet weather: it may go on well
in frosty weather, though wien the
earth is frozen very hard there is
more labour attached to the job,
and it goes on slower. The work,
however, is quite as well done, and
often, if the men do their duty with
the pickaxe and break the lumps a
little, it is of great service to bury
frozen earth and bring up the lower
spit to freeze. However, tor pro-

gress, dry moderate weather is the
most advantageous. Being ready
for the work in October, you may,
nevertheless, be stopped altogether
by excessive wet for a considerable
time, and the intervals of fine
weather may not be long enough
to permit the soil to dry. All this
should be well considered, and no
work should be wilfully put off to
a later period. January may be
mild open weather, or cold dry
weather, in which case whatever
is left undone should be done with-
outdelay. All newly-planted trees
should be examined: their stakes
may have been disturbed, or their
fastenings come loose, and unless
these things are set to rights at
once they would suffer greatly.
Collecting Manures.—This is a
general sort of duty in the winter
months. Peat earth, road-drift,
dead leaves and vegetable matter,
sand, marl, loam, turves for rot-
ting in heaps, horse, cow, sheep's,
poultry, and pig’s dung, and ail
other stuffs useful in composts,
should be gathered together, but
always in separate heaps, to lie
until wanted. ‘The turves to lie
and rot ought not to be cut more
than two inches thick, and those
who cannot obtain them any other
or cheaper way should buy them
as if for laying down on a plot,

286

and pile them in a heap; for this is,
after all, worth every penny that
is paid, for the groundwork or
staple matter in all kinds of com-
posts. ‘The great drawback is the
quantity of grubs usually found
in the roots of grass; but these
must be got rid of by hand-pick-
ing. Set a boy to remove the
turves from ore another, and pick
out all the vermin he sees _be-
tween them, whether slug, wire-
worm, or grub, and pile them in a
fresh place: the vermin usually get
to the part where the turves meet,
for the sake of the air. Picking
them in this way clears away two-
thirds the first picking ; in another
week or two remove them back
to the first place, and you will
find another lot; and about the
third or fourth picking will get
rid of all but a few stragglers.
At the end of a year the turves
are to be disturbed by cutting thin
slices all down with a very sharp
spade, and mixing it, chopping
the stuff and knocking it to pieces,
when any wireworm, grub, slug,
or other vermin that happens to
be left, is generally exposed, and
must be destroyed, if the spade
has not already cut it in half.
The peat, dungs, vegetables, &c.,
must each be kept in its distinct
heap, to be ready when wanted.
Leaves take two years to rot, and
sometimes more; turves will be
over three, although usable at the
end of two. ‘The refuse or spent
dung of Melon and Cucumber beds,
laid one year together after it is
done with for the frame, is always
valuable; for with all flowers dung
of any sort should be well rotted.
Pruning and Nailing Climbing
Plants, both those which are fresh
planted, and others that have been
established some time, may be
done in all the winter months

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JANUARY.

when the weather permits. Roses,
Pyrus Japonica, Wistaria Sinensis,
Jasmine, Honeysuckle, and many
other climbers may be now planted
for the first time, and be spurred
in; but all the weakly branches
may be cut away, and the strong
ones nailed out at proper distances,
whether horizontal or fan-fashion.

Pruning generally.—Lilacs, La-
burnums, and Almonds, which
have their set times for spring
pruning, may nevertheless be
touched this month, whenever the
quantity requiring to be done shall
cause you to have it some time
about; for amateurs have not
always the requisite strength of
hands to do anything rapidly and
where a man does everything with
his own hands, and trusts nobody,
he can hardly begin too early,
though it would be very easy to
begin too late; that is, so late as
to be useless. It must be recol-
lected that all flowering shrubs
show their bloom-bnds early, and
must be touched sparingly with the
knife for the proper time to do
the heavy work is directly the bloom
is over; but all thin shoots, where
they are too crowded and have no
flowers on them, or rather no
bloom-buds, may be taken away
clean. Where the branches have
bloom-buds on them we must
naturally spare them until they
have bloomed. Lilacs, Deutzia
scabra, and some others which
erow before they flower, neverthe-
less show, by the boldness of their
buds, which shoots are likely to
bloom; and all the spring pruning
required is the removal of such
small wood as is not likely to pro-
duce flowers, and can be spared
with advantage.

Preparing for early Flowers.—
It may be generally assumed that
nothing in a state of growth can

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JANUARY.

stand the changeable out-of-door
climate till the middle of May;
therefore all preparations for early
flowers must be made by some kind
of protection until that time. Thus
Sweet Peas may be sown in pots,
to be placed in a cold frame, and
these, with only the precaution of
covering from frost, will be fit to
turn out in a forward state as soon
as the weather renders it safe;
whereas, if they were sown in the
open ground, they would hardly
have come up. Many so-called
hardy annuals may be raised in the
same way, so that you may be in
full bloom before June is out,
while all those sown in the open
borders will be coming into flower
by the time the first are out of
bloom or declining. Pots sown
with all or any of the annuals that
are usually sown in patches this
month may be hastened still more
by putting into the greenhouse ;
for they may be almost flowered
before they are turned out. Some
may be sown out of doors under
hand-glasses, to be covered every
niglit close down. Sweet Peas
may be sown in lengths or patches
in thickly-eut turves, which are
placed grass downwards on shelves;
and by cutting a slit or opening slop-
ing, half an inch deep in the midst
of the soil and roots, and stuffing
the peas in at moderate distances,
and pressing the earth upon them,
they will advance as well as in
pots, and with this advantage—that
the turf is removed whole and
inserted in the ground, affording
the best possible nourishment to
the plants.

Auriculas.—Cover up well with
mats in frosty weather, but give all
the air possible on fine days. If
severe frost occurs by day they
should remain covered up. The
roots must not get quite dry, but

287

it is equally imperative that the
soil be not kept constantly wet.
The drier they are when it is
necessary to cover up much, the
better. When water is required
give it thoroughly, but let it be on
a mild day in the morning, with
full ventilation all the day.

Anemones.—Treat the same in
all respects as Ranunculuses. The
autumn planted want protection
by haulm or litter; or, for want of
them, hoops and mats across the
beds. The common single Ane-
mones are much more hardy than
the double, and will stand a
smartish frost without any pro-
tection whatever.

Beds of Flowers, especially when
the plants are small, should be
covered against frost; but, if they
have not been, the plants shonld
be examined at every thaw, to see
that the roots have not been dis-
turbed, or, if they have been, to
press them down into their places.

Biennials and Perennicls, gene-
rally raised from seed last season,
and not planted into their Lbloom-
ing places, may be got in at once
if the weather is fair and mild; or,
if not, as early as this condition
exists long enough to admit of
their being gotin. Newly-planted
subjects overtaken by severe frost
should be mulched.

Bulb-beds, in general, should be
covered during severe weather. It
is a good plan to cover the soil
permanently with a layer of six
inches of Jeaf-mould, which can be
forked in as the spring advances.

Carnations, Picotees, Pinks, and
Pansies in frames and boxes.—
Those in small pots must be shut
up in bad weather, and wet weather
in particular. We do not think a
frost would do the mischief that
wet would; for dampness is fatal
to most things, but certainly when

288

confined in small pots full of roots.

They must have no water while |

they have any moisture in the soil.
The Pinks and Pansies in their
blooming-pots, and especially the
Pansies, are kept growing as well as
they can be during the winter, for
the sake of their early bloom.
Pansies intended to be flowered in
the pots, and not yet shifted to
their blooming-pots,
shifted directly or early in Febru-
ary, and well watered in to settle
the earth about the balls at their
roots ; they should be covered close
up for a day or two after this, but
all alike should have air, and
plenty of it, in mild dry weather.
Dutch Bulbs.—Holland, where
bulbs are more successfully grown
than in any other country, is said
to be without any original soil; for
light sandy alluvial soil is found
more than forty feet in depth, and
at the bottom of this may be
found whole trees of immense size,
which, on exposure to the air some
time, fall to pieces. It is in this
light soil, every yard of which was
once under water, that the bulbs
flourish so exceedingly. As, how-
ever, the great secret of their
success arises from making the
best use of the means at hand, it
may be worth while mentioning
that the top six inches are always
well manured with good well-rotted
cowdung, that the bulbs are planted
in autumn, covered with straw all
the winter, and, when the straw is
removed, watered all over with
liquid manure formed of cowdung
and water. ‘This settles the sur-
face down, and the wind does not
disturb it; whereas, if the surface
were not run together, but left
loose as it is under the straw, the
wind would blow it away in clouds
of dust. This may help us in our
cultivation of Hyacinths.

should be.
'taken from their frames, and the

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JANUARY.

Half-hardy things under protec-
tion should have air in all fine mild
weather, and not be at all moved
beyond what is actually necessary.
All but frost by way of temperature
is safe, and even one or two
degrees of this are not killing; but
too much wet is bad, and therefore
water should be seldom adminis-
tered, and rain not allowed at all
on them, unless the plants are

frames covered up dry. Frames
and pits should be well cleaned and
swept all over inside with a stiff
brush or a birch broom, to keep
them clear of dirt and vermin; for
nothing conduces more to the good
health of plants than cleanliness
and dryness of the ground on which
they stand. Three or four good
waterings will almost carry plants
through a winter.
Ranunculuses.—Turn out the
soil from the beds, and lay it on
each side the hole. Having thus
removed, say a foot of earth, fork
up the other well, but leave it in
the bottom, and let the earth taken
out be dug over and mixed once a -
week, and each time well examined
to detect any vermin that may be
init. The Ranunculuses planted
in autumn must be protected with
litter. It is a curious fact, but not
more curious than true, that in
Holland wherever they plant
Ranunculuses they find celery,
and that among Anemones, Nar-
cissus, Tulips, or other bulbs no
such intruder appears. We have
been assured by one of the most
considerable growers in Haarlem
that this fact has been noticed so
often and so long as to give rise to
a notion that Ranunculuses change
into celery. With this we will have
nothing to do; but we believe the
fact, and promulgate it for the con-
sideration of those inclined to

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JANUARY.

speculate on the subject, and those
who in Eagland eultivate the
Ranunculus to any extent will, per-
haps, do us the favour to take
notice if they meet with anything
of the kind.

Tulip beds.—Let the best bed be
covered, at any cost, against frost,
so as to prevent even the soil from
being frozen, much less the foliage:
two or tliree stakes close to the
edge, to keep it in, and litter put
all over the bed six inches to a
foot thick, will do this. The stakes
round the edges will prevent the
wind blowing off the litter; but if
the bed is hooped the hoops should
be placed across, so that the centre
would not be more than a foot
above the earth in the middle.
These. hoops should be about a
yard apart, and straight sticks
from end to end along the centre,
and about half way from the centre
to the edge. Mats may then be
laid over without much difficulty,
but it is best to put a net over the
hoops permanently, so that there
shall be no trouble in throwing
over the mats in a hurry, which are
frequently required in coming
storms at a later period of the
spring,

Violet beds, of the Neapolitan
and Russian sorts, if sheltered with
a layer of open protecting material,
such as peas haulm, over which a
mat may be thrown in severe
weather, will furnish an occasional
picking of blossom, especially if
situated in a warm corner, which
should always be selected for them,

THE ROSE GARDEN.
Although January is not the
month we should choose for Rose
pruning, there is, where one man
does it all, a good deal to get
through in a collection of any ex-
tent, and therefore towards the end

289

of the month we should not
hesitate to begin upon the most
robust and hardy sorts, pruning all
the strong shoots in to two or
three eyes at the most, and all the
weaker ones clean off. Itis unsafe
to trust to weak branches, for the
branch that goes from them will
often be found much stronger than
themselves, and in that case they
cannot sustain themselves in x
proper position. The growing
Roses in the forcing-house want
a considerable supply of water,
syringing over the foliage, ocza-
sional fumigating with tobacco
smoke, and an*even temperature.
The China sorts of Roses in pots
in the greenhouse, or in pots in the
frames, with and without dung,
require a good deal of watering
when they once set off to grow, and
if the pots are filled with roots it is
as well to repot at once. Hoses
may be planted still out of doors,
but the further we advance the
more care they require, and the less
time can they with any safety be
left out of the ground; nor does
laying them in by the heels at all
compensate for it, although it may
save them from perishing alto-
gether. Briers nay be still pro-
cured and planted in rows, and
you may select the youngest,
straightest, and best for grafting.
Young stocks are far more safe to
unite, and far better when they
have united, than older and more
stubborn stuff. The seeds of Roses,
left out till now, may be sown,
being first cleared of the leaves
and wiped dry, ‘in pans lightly
covered, and placed in the green.
house, but never allowed to get
dry: they may be looked for in a
few weeks.

290

THE GREENHOUSE.

Most of the subjects in this
house require uo artificial heat
beyond that which is_ sufficient
to banish frost. If 32°, being the
freezing point, be avoided, the
plants will not be the worse for
never feeling the warmth of 35°.
Such being the case, the object is
to keep down the temperature by
opening the sashes whenever the
weather is mild and there are no
cutting winds. The great diffi-
culty, however, is during a frost,
for the necessity of firing is ob-
vious, and the most constant at-
tendance is required to see that
the temperature is not raised too
high ; for it must be checked then
by letting out the heat at the top
of the house, and unless this is
done cautiously there will be mis-
chief. Tlie great disadvantage of
increasing the temperature is, that
the plants set off growing, or are
drawn up weakly, or they are
forced into bloom before you are
ready for them, or they suffer
changes and checks, which per-
haps throw off the bloom alto-
gether, especially of Camellias.
Give, therefore, all the air you
can; and,if you can so manage,
rather cover up against light
frosts than use fires. Of course
you must be prepared, at all risks,
to have the aid of fire heat in very
severe weather.

Azaleas are coming forward, and
showing what they will be. The
Indian sorts are as forward as the
hardy ones, although the latter
have been warmer than they could
have been out of doors.

Camellias are rapidly swelling
their bloom-buds, and they will re-
quire a little attention as to water-
ing. As they open the most pro-
minent places should be occupied

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JANUARY.

by them, on account of their show ;
for every Cameilia flower is a gem
at this time of year, and ought to
be seen.

Climbing plants in pots are
now requiring adjustment to their
various holders or supports, of
which there are none so effective
as shrubby branches of trees,
formed into a handsome propor-
tion, stuck in the pots like live
instead of dead trees, and with
judicious management the plants
literally fill up the position well.
There have been so many differ-
ent fancies for the construction
of trellises that they would occupy
a chapter; but we throw out the
hint that, whatever form you
adopt, it should be natural, and
not a mere round or square, to be
filled up with whatever the plant
is composed of, as is too much
the case. There are fifty ways of
doing the same thing, and the
more natural the more effective
and enticing. Plants with large
foliage require a large design, and
minute flowers and leaves would
be lost on anything gigantic. In
the absence of any design, upright
rods all round the edge of the
pot will be the most simple and
effective.

Geraniums. — Checking any
shoots that are pushing out of their
places by pinching the ends out,
and regulating the position of any
branches that would be better a
little constrained, is the principal
business of the cultivator. Keep
them near the light; turn them
frequently to prevent them from
getting one-sided; give water more
frequently than hitherto.

Hard-wooded plants in general,
such as Chorozemas, Hoveas, Eri-
cas, and such-like, are in many
cases showing their bloom-buds.
Correas, Epacrises, and some

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JANUARY.

others are in fine bloom. See
that they do not get too dry, an
error in which many involve them-
selves in trying to avoid making
them too wet. If any of them
have filled their pots too full with
roots they will require much
oftener watering, or else a change
from one pot to the other. The
former is the best, perhaps, till
after the bloom; but a little liquid
manure is the best thing to
moisten the roots with when there
is a lack of room.

Insects.—The pest of the green-
house during winter and spring
is the green fly or aphis, and in
the mild weather at this time of
year they are sure to make
their appearance, on some of the
soft-wooded races especially. They
should be destroyed by fumigation
at the outset, as soon as they are
observed; for if left for only a
week they will have spread
amazingly, and have done consi-
derable damage. The following
is a simple mode of fumigation :—
Close the house at every point,
choosing a day when the air
is dull and heavy. ‘Towards
evening apply the fumes of strong
common tobacco. Get a six-inch
flower-pot, with a wire handle
like a basket for convenience of
lifting about; make in the sides
close to the bottom two or three
holes as large as a half-crown,
besides that in the bottom. Put
a “handful” of clear red-hot
cinders in the bottom of the pot,
and having quickly carried it into
the greenhouse, spread over them
a layer of the tobacco damped.
This is to be covered over with a
good layer of damped moss. It
will smoke away and dry rapidly,
aud would then burst out in flames,
which would be liable to injure the

291

vent this it should be watched, and,
when it is ready to burst through,
more damp moss added. ‘lhe pot
should be set on three smaller pots,
piaced so that there may be draught
up the hole in the bottom. These
smaller pots, or stands as they
may be called, should be placed
in readiness in two or three parts
of the house, according to its size.
Place the fumigating pot first at
the further end of the house,
and when the smoke begins to
thicken there remove it to another
part, and at last near the door,
where it can be finally attended to
with. little bodily ineonvenience.
The whole house is to be filled
quite full with the smoke, and if
tobacco enough was not put in at
first more must be added. Next
evening the fumigation should be
repeated, and the morning after
that the plants should have a brisk
syringing, and then a fire with
ventilation, if need be, to dry up
the damp. A less troublesome
mode of fumigating is with fumi-
gating bellows, the smoke being
puffed in through a small hole,
the operator continuing outside.
Where the smell of tobacco is
objected to, the house should be
fumigated with cascarilla bark the
following day.

Myrtles are often suffering for a
long time for want of a change of
pots, and occasionally they have
been found so completely pot-
bound that the water could hardly
go through the ball at all. This
state requires that the ball shall
be taken from the pot, and soaked
for hours until the wet has pene-
trated every part of the ball, and
then it may be repotted in a larger
pot with the ordinary turfy soil
round it, and pretty weil pressed.
Tt will want no more water for a

foliage of the plants; but to pre-/| long time.

292

Orange and Lemon trees will be
the better for a little top-dressing
of sheep’s dung, or still better with
a moistening of the whole soil with
liquid manure, being a spadeful
of sheep’s dung stirred, after soak-
ing, in nine gallons of water, and
the watering with this should be
once to four times with plain water.

Rhododendrons are advancing
quite rapidly, and a few weeks’
fine weather will scarcely fail to
bring the early ones into flower.

Routine.x—The routine work at
this season consists chiefly in at-
tention to cleanliness. In dull
damp weather especially, but more
or less at all times, what are called
soft-wooded plants, such as the
Geraniums, are very liable to
throw off some of their lower
leaves, especially if from fear of
cold draughts the house has not
been enough ventilated. These
leaves soon become mouldy under
the progress of decay, and it is
of the utmost consequence to the
healthiness of the plants to have
them removed, or the decaying
matter will damage that which is
living. Any leaves, moreover, that
from any cause have been injured—
often those upon which water has
been carelessly spilled or allowed
to stand, or those which receive
cold drip from the roof—will all be

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JANUARY.

liable to this decay when the house
is more than usually closed up.
The yellow dying leaves should
therefore be picked off carefully
without wounding the stems, and
the fallen dead leaves should be
picked or swept up. The latter
should be done every morning,
and the former as often as once a
week; but it should be made a
rule to pick off such leaves when-
they are seen, allowing them no ever
time or opportunity to damage the
plants. At this season, too, cleanse
by washing the leaves of such
plants as may have become filthy,
either from the presence of insects
or the growth of a minute fungus
which often attacks greenhouse
plants, forming on the leaves little
black spots, which spread into large
patches if not removed. A piece
of soft sponge and some warm
water may be used. Such plants
as Camellias, Oranges, Myrtles,
and all the larger leathery-leaved
plants, are much benefited by this
washing, which is, moreover, highly
advantageous to them, if only to re-
move the dust—and in the neigh-
bourhood of large towns, or of cities,
the sooty particles—with which in
time they become coated, and
which at this season cannot well
be removed by the summary pro-
cess of syringing.

293

FEBRUARY.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

—_—__———.

Every fine day now does its part
in promoting vegetation. The
buds of all deciduous plants begin
to swell; Almonds and Peach trees
of the ornamental kind begin to
show colour if the weather be at
all mild; and all the earliest kinds
of flowering shrubs indicate a
speedy opening of their blooms.
Lawns require mowing, and gravel
walks not intended to be turned
want rolling whenever they are in
a fit condition ; nevertheless, it is
just as possible that the whole gar-
den may be frozen solid, and drive
us indoors for employment. The
making of labels, the preparation
of sticks and stakes for the sup-
port of tall plants and climbers,
the examining of tubers and seeds,
all help to find us employment;
and the breaking of damaged
tlower-pots and crocks, and sifting
them so as to produce them ot
different sizes, is proper and pro-
fitable work for labourers and
boys; so also is the turning and
mixing of different composts and
manures. The planting and alter-
ing and planning not already com-
pleted must be hastened to the
close at favourable opportunities,
though they ought to have been
done before. Pruning, also, not yet
completed, should be persevered in
until done. The nailing, or other-

wise fastening, climbing plants on
walls, pillars, and fronts of houses,
must be no longer neglected.
Weeding is necessary whenever
such pests appear: and great pains
should be taken to destroy vermin
of every kind, but more especially
the moths and butterflies that may
be found sporting about, although
few and far between, because the
destruction of a single intruder
may save us the trouble of exter-
minating hundreds at a more
advanced season, or the sacrifice
of our best plants by the devouring
caterpillar or the numerous kinds
of grub.

Anemone and Ranunculus.—The
autumn-planted will require pro-
tection with litter or covering of
some kind, or in the event of severe
frost they would be greatly injured;
but this is the chief reason why
the growers for exhibition defer
planting all their best varieties
until the second week in this
month. Therefore, at the begin-
ning of February put a layer of
rotten cowdung at the bottom of
the beds, as they are at present
emptied to the depth of a foot.
Let the layer be a good inch in
thickness, and return the soil
which has been turned out on the
sides of the bed lightly into its
place, and raised in the middle:

Q94

leave it to settle a few days. About
the second week lay the surface
level, and draw drills six inches
apart the whole length, and let
them be three inches deep; place
the tubers of the Ranunculus or
Anemone at the bottom, gently
pressing them into the soil; and
when all are placed draw the soil
partly back again, so that the
tubers may be covered to the
depth of two inches, and gently
press the soil down upon them.
Regulate the surface of the bed
so that the drills show, but that
the bed be left neat and clean. In
this state they may remain until
they are above ground.

Annuals.—One batch of these
may be sown in a hotbed, without,
however, having any violent heat.
Sow the different sorts in different
pots, and as they germinate they
may be placed where they will
have more or less heat and air
according to their requirements.
These will be among the earliest
and the principal potted anuuals,
such as Phlox Drummondi, Rho-
dunthe Manglesii, Balsam, Cocks-
comb, Ice plant, Sensitive plant,
Egg plant, which are all completed
in pots: it will make two seasons
by sowing now, and two months
hence also.

By the end of the month a first
sowing of all the best annuals
may be made for planting out in
the borders. These are intended
to be grown in pots, and kept in
frames, and about May planted
out almost, if not quite, in flower.
All the most esteemed varieties
for ornament should be thus man-
aged, only a few of each being
raised as a first crop. Each kind
may be sown separately in a pot,
and the young plants potted as
soon as large enough to handle,
three or six in a sixty-sized three-

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

inch pot, according to the parti-
cular habit of each. The seed-
pots as well as the young plants,
when first transplanted, should
have a little warmth, or they will
not come so forward as will be
desired; but the heat must be
very moderate. A temperature
of 55°, maintained by means of
bottom heat, is quite enough, and
with this they should have abund-
ance of air.

Auriculas should be towards the
end of the month cleared of their
yellow leaves, the surface of their
soil stirred, and the loose thrown
out, that they may be top-dressed
with light rich compost, com-
prising one part wel]l-decomposed
poultry-dung, two parts perfectly
rotted cowdung, and three parts
sand; or, for want of the poultry-
dung, half cowdung, and half
sand. They should be well watered
immediately without disturbing the
top, and shut up close in the
frames a whole day. Sow seed
lightly in pans or pots, and cover
with damp moss.

Biennials should, if they are
not already in their blooming
places, be removed to them in
favourable weather. Wallflowers,
Sweetwilliams, Canterbury Bells,
Rockets, and other subjects used
as ornaments on borders, should
be always placed there before they
make a great advance towards
blooming : the autumn is far bet-
ter than the spring on this account.

Bulbs in the borders are making
their appearance; but it would be
unsafe to fork the surface till it is
certain that they all appear, other-
wise those under the surface may
be spoiled by the fork. Most of
them will be little the worse for
frost.

Carnations and Picotees will re-
quire to be potted in their bloom-

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

ing-pots by and by; therefore, if
the soil is not prepared for it al-
ready, it must be mixed now. The
plants at present only want the
usual treatment continued.

Columbines are somewhat neg-
lected; but they are the most
elegant of all border perennials,
and capable of being produced in
almost endless variety, comprising
all shades of blue and white, all
shades of red and white, and self-
colours of every shade without
white. When perfectly double
they are beautifully formed, and
whether seen in masses at a
distance, or in the hand as a cut
flower, it is impossible to admire
them too much. As the perennial
roots of these will move well now,
although there is perhaps little or
no leaf above ground, let them be
placed at once where they are to
bloom.

Dahlias.—Put all the roots in-
tended for propagation in suitable
sized pots with ordinary soil, and
place them in a hotbed, or the
greenhouse or stove; but such
tubers as are intended to be
merely parted may be thrown into
the hotbed or stove without pot-
ting, because, when the eyes have
fairly started, the roots or tubers
may be cut in pieces so long as
there is one eye to one piece; and
the warmth will expose their eyes
before potting as well as after
it. It is necessary to water the
tubers occasionally, or they might
dry up; and as soon as they show
their eyes they should be cut up,
with a sharp and large knife, into
as many pieces as you can make
with a good eye to each piece,
and pot these pieces in pots as
small as will take the tubers; but
these may be shortened consider-
ably to make them go into as
small a sized pot as possible to

295

|}accommodate them; for, if this

were not discreetly done, large
pots would be required for some,
and the room occupied by the pots
would be greater than could be
afforded. Seed may be sown in
pans or wide-mouthed pots to-
wards the end of the month, if
you are anxious to be forward
with any particular kinds, only
you must be provided with room
to accommodate them with proper
protection till the middle of May.

Frame Plants.—All plants in
frames without heat should have
as much air as can possibly be
given on mild days, the surface
of the earth stirred when it seems
damp or mossy, and the drainage
should be examined; for in such
case it will often be found clogged
up by earth at the proper outlet,
or the soil so completely run in
among the crocks at the bottom
of the pot as to choke them alto-
gether, The plants should be
cleared of dead leaves.

Geometrical Garden.—The beds
in this garden should have been
filled with evergreens in pots since
the destrnetion of the autumnal
flowers. For the sake of variety
the beds may now be re-arranged,
and different combinations of the
plants effected. By the aid of
two or three changes of this kind
in the winter season, a set of
potted evergreens may be made to
impart much variety, as well as life,
to the geometrical garden during
the dead season of the year, when
the beds cannot be filled with
flowers. The different variegated
evergreens are of great value for
this purpose, and so are all such
evergreens as carry berries through
the winter—the Holly, for example,
of which alone in the laurel-
leaved, the saw-leaved, the com-
mon prickly, the hedgehog prickly,

296 CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

the gold-edged, the silver-edged,| the rest at a later period. The
the gold-blotched, the silver-| best family is the Lupinus poly-
blotched, the variegated hedgehog, phyllus, of which there are many
the yellow-berried, the white-ber- | varieties; but those who pretend
ried, and the red-berried, there | to grow them will always throw
are very distinct varieties for a| away everything that is not first-
dozen beds. The variety among | rate in quality, because they can
hardy evergreens suitable for this | be propagated from the root when
purpose is very great; and no | they do prove good, and a variety
such garden ought to be cheer-| worth the trouble may be thus
less or barren, even in the winter | perpetuated.

season. Mignonette—Some pots of this

Honeysuckle-—The Honeysuckle | favourite flower should be sown,
trained up a rod, and made to) and set on a shelf in the green-
form a standard as it were, with a| house, where they may be con-
fall-over head, is a fine object ina | tinued if required to bloom in
shrubbery; and nothing is more pots; or, if intended for planting
simple than its training. Let it | out in the borders for early bloom-
grow as it likes, one rod or twenty; | ing, they may be removed to a
fasten it round the pole with dif- | frame when they get four or six
ferent cords every six inches, and | inches high, and kept there till
on the top all round drive in| planting-out time. These should
staple nails, or eyes, to stand out be sown in five-inch pots, about
two inches, and not more than | a dozen seeds in each, and the
two inches apart; run a wire | young plants thinned to about
through the outside, and fasten it. half a dozen of the best when
The branches having been guided | they get forward enough to show
as high as this may be all cut down | their strength. Sandy loam suits
to six inches above, and all their | them best, though the soil is of
side branches will grow over and|less importance now than for
form a head. autumn sowing.

Hyacinths will be above ground,| Perennials generally require to
and may be covered with litter,|/ be placed where they are to
to keep the frosts from injuring | flower before they progress in their
the foliage and spoiling the bloom.| spring growth. All the Phloxes,
They may be watered with liquid | Asters, and others should by rights
manure once as soon as they re-| be parted and planted in autumn;
quire watering at all; and the| but that having gone by, they have
watering should be done in ear-| to be the more carefully done now.
nest, to soak the ground they are| Pinks and Pansiesin Beds.—Stir
growing in. ‘This liquid manure | the earth all over the surface with-
should be made in the proportion | cut disturbing the roots, and top-
of nine gallons of water to a| dress with decomposing cowdung
spadeful of decomposed cowdung. | laid half an inch thick all over

Lupines of the perennial kinds; the bed. Let the litter be laid
should be planted where they are | over at night as usual, and removed
to flower, if this was not done in | in mild weather.
the autumn; and if there be any| Plants for Bedding.—lf you are
quantity of seed to raise plants | not fully prepared with enough of
from, half may be sown now, and | these begin to propagate in earnest,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR FEBRUARY. 297

for the next threemonths mustpro-| Sweet Peas.—Sow a number of
duce you all you require. Cuttings | pots to come in for early bloom.
of Geraniums, Verbenas, Petunias,| They may be set in a hothouse
Hydrangeas, Roses of the China|or warm frame until they have
kind, and all other subjects used | germinated, then removed to a
in the borders and beds in large | greenhouse, and finally to a cold
quantities, should be taken now, | frame, where they must be kept
and struck in gentle bottom heat | till it is safe to plant out, which
under bell-glasses, wiping the | can scarcely be before May. About
glasses every morning, and attend-| a dozen seeds should be dropped
ing punctually to the required | into a five-inch pot.

moisture. With care these things} Tulips will be generally up on
will strike very rapidly, and the | the protected bed, and the earth
sooner they are potted off| should be carefully stirred all over
singly into sixty-sized pots the|the surface, and laid close up to
better. When they are once/| the stems, or rather spikes, which
established, and are growing, you|show through. Mat or cover
may take off the tops to strike | them still for the night, or a hard
others from, while the plants thus | frost might considerably injure
beheaded become stronger and|them; and when the rising spike
more bushy. But this does not} opens, so that water could enter
apply to the Hydrangeas, which | and lay there, they ought not to
depend for their bloom on the top | receive water at all. The patent
strong bud, and therefore must be | covering ought to be placed there

grown on, and shifted as soon as|to prevent any fall of rain upon
they fill the old pot with roots. them until the bud has fairly risen
Polyanthuses and Primroses must | out of the foliage. The patent
be well searched for snails and | waterproof calico is far better than
slugs, which attack the tender | matting, as it excludes no light,
petals the instant they protrude | and confines the natural warmth
from the calyx, and if there be|of the earth, as well as keeps
any quantity there will not be a|off all rain. The outer beds,
perfect flower. Search, therefore,| which are, or rather may be,
closely sunrise and sunset, and | unprotected, should always be
in dark, cloudy, damp weather, | loosened on the surface as soon
which is favourable to the wander- | as the spikes are fairly through
ings of this mischievous race ; and | the ground.
if they are at all plentiful sow Seeds and Seed-shops.—There is
some fresh lime over them occa- | nothing so base as to deceive the
sionally, for that destroys all it | cultivator with bad seeds. It may
touches. Stir the earth between | be fine sport to serve out packets
the plants, keep them very clear|of worthless things with names
from weeds, and always cut the | written on the papers, and take
Box edgings very close and small,|the money for them; but that
-to keep them from forming a har- | persons in respectable shops should
bour for vermin, which they always | sell flower-seeds without knowing
will be when left too thick. Sow | whether they will grow or not, or
seed in pans, and if the seed be | perhaps worse than that, knowing
very choice cover with damp moss | that they will not grow, is worse
till it vegetates. than the tricking of any other

298

trade. In other businesses we get
something for our money: we may
get a bad coal fora good one, stale
bread for new, bad wine instead of
the best; but we still have some-
thing. In the tricking of the
seed trade we have nothing, and.
withal, are deprived not only of
our money, but of our season also.
What will compensate us for the
absence of Coreopsis, of our fa-
vourite dwarf Larkspur, and seven
or eight other favourite annuals
from our garden? Yet, believing
it impossible that we could have
been premeditatingly robbed, we
attributed the failure of the half
that we sowed early to some mis-
fortune. Our second, therefore,
was sown with better faith, and
that has totally failed also. This is
not all: we have had the same seed
for a friend in the country as we
had for ourselves, and the annoy-
ance is ten times worse to have
been made instrumental in de-
ceiving him. French Marigold,
Mignonette, Nemophila, and Phlox
Drummondi, are the only four
that came up with either of us out
of twenty sorts.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

Now we come to a period of
the year when there must be some
activity in the Rose garden. Took
well to the fastenings of pillar,
arched, and wall Roses, and the
stakes of standard trees, and repair
all that are disordered. Go on with
pruning leisurely, but according
to the quantity to be done, always
keeping in mind that those of the
same kind pruned soonest will
bloom soonest, and therefore that
if two or three seasons of pruning
are systematically adopted, there
will be two or three different
periods of bloom. This, then, may
be kept in view in the pruning of

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

the summer Roses, such as the
Cabbage, Moss, and all those which
are but their month in flower.
The earliest pruned will be a
month earlier; the latest will be
postponed by cutting them dowa
to two eyes after all the upper
ones have been shooting some
time. The seedling Roses must
be kept clear from weeds. The
hriers that are beginning to push
may be grafted with some of the
prunings of the better sorts, and if
nicely managed will bloom the
first summer in tolerable strength.
In grafting the greatest care
should be taken to make a close
and clean fit, and not to have
more than two eyes left to grow.
Some only leave one, but two are
not too many. Digging between
the Rose trees, and clearing the
ground of suckers, will be always
found beneficial, and among the
seedlings in beds forking will be
found equally serviceable. Roses
in the forcing-house should have
as much air as can be given with-
out lowering the temperature too
much. Plantations may be got
ready for the tender kinds of dwarf
Roses by well mixing decomposed
dung with the natural soil; and the
plants, which of course are in
pots, shonld be checked by taking
off the tops, otherwise they become
too much drawn for bed Roses,
The tops may with care be struck,
but they want great attention and
a little bottom heat. Planting may
still be done with such as have
not begun to shoot yet.

THE GREENHOUSE.

The plants are now more or less
rapidly approaching flower. Look
generally to the state of the soil
and pots, for now is a good shifting
time if the work be _ properly
managed ; but the balls ought not

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

to be disturbed in the Jeast, nor
the fibres damaged. As the wea-
ther may prove mild the greatest
allowance of air should be given.
Watering should still be carefully
performed, not by drenching all
the pots periodically, whether they
require it or not, but by examining
them, and giving water to none
that are sufficiently moist; for all
plants ought to be occasionally
nearly dry, but not quite. When
they are kept long together in wet
soil they are seriously damaged
before they exhibit the results on
their foliage or flowers.

Azaleas want but little attention
beyond watering properly, and
training as they are intended to
bloom. Some of the varieties are
very weakly and poor growers,
and have to be regularly supported
artificially ; but we are rapidly dis-
carding them. Among the best of
the colours we have had the worst
6f the habits, and many sticks are
required to steady the flowers; but
the less artificial support they
have the more highly they must
be approved.

Camellias are beginning to look
interesting from the number that
are partially blooming, and should
be brought forward prominently.

Cinerarias.—As the seedlings
come into flower put marks to
those that are good for anything,
and let the mark or number refer
to a book in which the quality of
the flower and its peculiar charac-
teristics are described. Shift the
successional plants as they may
require it.

Climbing Plants —In the best
adapted trellises much is to be
done by constantly placing the
branches and shoots on the parts
of the trellis they are to occupy.
When any plant is allowed to go
rambling about, instead of being

299

trained as it goes, the fastening
of the shoots is more difficult, and
it is a long time recovering.

Bricas.— Heaths require air, and
light, and plenty of room, and
have great aversion to heat. This
suggests their being placed near
the openings; but Heaths are
better in pits than greenhouses,
unless they have houses for them-
selves without other plants. These
will require more water than they
had in winter, but they must not
have it while they are still wet.
Kach plant, therefore, should be
examined before it is watered, and
if it is already wet leave it for a
time; or, if more than usually
wet, turn out the ball of earth
to see where the draining is de-
fective, and remedy as soon as
possible.

Fuchsias require repotting,
pruning, and properly shaping the
plants, allowing for the growth of
the young wood. To make due
preparation for this the plants
should be literally formed into a
skeleton, the upright stem in the
middle being the principal, and
the spurs being cut close in at
the top, and widening a little, or
rather lengthening, towards the
bottom; for they ought to have
a pyramidal form, the branches as
long at the bottom as will reach
the edge of the pot, and gradually
diminishing in Jength until at the
top they are quite close into the
main stem. The new wood forms
the tree, and as the buds appear
they must be regulated as to num-
ber and situation, because the next
thing to having branches enough
to form the tree is to have them
in the right places.

Geraniums should be shifted, if
they have filled their pots with
roots, until they are in the size
they are intended to flower in,

500

and any rambling shoots that seem
inclined to destroy the general
uniformity should be shortened,
even shorter than all the rest,
that the younger shoots, caused by
the check given to the main one,
may fill up the space instead of
the stunted end of the branches
shortened.

Huard-wooded, or Botany Bay
plants, which will generally be
rapidly advancing towards bloom,
will require careful watering.
They must on no account suffer
from any deficiency in the supply,
or their blooms will be cast off or
imperlectly developed. On the
other hand, they must not be con-
stantly wet. They should have
a thorough watering when neces-
sary, and then the soil should get
almost dry before any more is ap-
plied, when it should have another
thorough watering. There is some
difficulty in ascertaining the actual
state, whether of wetness or dry-
ness, of the soil in a flower-pot,
particularly in the case of these
hard-wooded) which are _ fine-
rooted) subjects, and are always
grown in a large proportion of
peat earth. The state of the
surface soil is very deceptive:

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

a great deal depends on experience.
This is one of the great recom-
mendations of the West Kent
flower-pot for all large plants,
which is made so that the mass of
earth may be readily lifted up out
of the pot, and examined. Tap-
ping the sides of the pot with the
knuckles becomes, by experience,
a useful aid in ascertaining the wet-
ness or dryness of the soil. There
is a deadness in the sound if the
soil is wet, and a kind of ring if it
is dry; but it is only by large
practice and experience that this
test can be relied on.

Routine.—Pot off, or prick out,
all struck cuttings of greenhouse
plants, change the pots of those
plants which have filled them with
roots for pots a size larger, and
stir the surface of the soil of those
which do not want shifting. Keep
seedlings clear of weeds, and when
large enough prick them out
round the edges of pots until thay
get to a proper size to be potted
separately. Keep everything clean
and dry, and if the house exhibit
signs of dampness light fires, and
give air at the same time: these
will dry the house without hurting
the plants.

301

MARCH.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

Alpine plants may now be
shifted, if not done in autumn.
A soil of equal parts peat and
loam, with a little sand, will suit
them generally.

American plants (Rhododen-
drons, Azaleas, &c.) are benefited
by a thorough dressing of well-
decomposed cowdung. They may
yet be removed with care. It is
usual to plant them in peat soil,
but many will do inloam. They
prefer a sheltered situation, and
one moderately moist.

Anemones, and especially the
double ones, which are tender
compared with the single, should

be covered at night to prevent |

frost from reaching the tubers:
those above ground especially
should have some light open
covering at night up to the middle
of May.

Annuals.—Whatever annuals of
the tender kind are not yet sown
may be now sown on a slight hot-
bed made in the ordinary way, but
about two feet high, with six inches
of mould on the top; on this
you. may place a common garden
frame or hand-glasses, and sow the
seeds within the space they cover.
Sow the seeds in rows, which is
the most convenient plan for
keeping the different kinds sepa-
rate. They must be protected by

glass. Hardy annuals may be sown
in open borders, and, if properly
covered up, will not germinate
until they will stand the weather.

Antirrhinums.—Plant out seed-
lings of last year, or rooted cut-
tings. Propagate the good varie-
ties; they will strike freely under
glasses with or without heat. Seeds
sown now will produce plants to
flower in autumn.

Aquilegias.—Plant out early, and
sow a few at the end of the month
for transplanting.

Auriculas are this month show-
ing bloom, and the slightest frost
is detrimental. Keep them cool;
give them air when the weather is
mild. Asthe blooms rise watering
must be attended to, and covering
from frosts observed with great
strictness. The effect of the frost,
if it reaches them, is various:
sometimes it checks the growth,
sometimes cracks the petals, and
always hurts the colour and crum-
ples the flower.

Biennials.—The seeds of bien-
nial plants may be sown towards
the end of the month to bloom
early next season. Transplant for
flowering those sown last year.

Canterbury Bells —Plant out if
not already done. Sow a few at the
end of the month.

Caraganas, and the Cylisuses of

302

dwarf prostrate habit, may now be
grafted.

Carnations and Picotees will re-
quire the most strict attention.
They must not yet be watered more
than is absolutely necessary for
their actual preservation. If the
soil he wet the plants will be
in danger from damp, for they are
far more susceptible of cold, and
when attacked by frost the fibres
are more liable to damage; be-
sides which, the fibres are now
growing fast, and are therefore
young and soft.

Chrysanthemums. — Plant out,
and increase by dividing the
suckers from the roots. They luxu-
riate in a rich soil of loam and
cowdung. Plant a few against
walls, terraces, or railings.

Climbers which have been pro-
tected must be uncovered gradu-
ally ; they must be kept covered at
night. Prune them, and tie or
nail the best ripened branches.

Crocus.— Mark the best varie-
ties, so as to know them at the
time of taking up the bulbs. Keep
the soil about them fresh and clean.

Dahlias.—Those which are not
yet potted and set to work may
be done at once. Put them in
pots no larger tlian necessary ; and,
indeed, some of the tubers may
be cut away, to prevent the neces-
sity of using one too large. Here
they will throw up their shoots
from the collar when they are put
into heat, and the cuttings must
be taken off when about three pairs
of leaves long. Those who have
followed our previous directions
by this time have cuttings well
rooted. If they are in pots hold-
ing more than one, they must be
piaced in pots singly; and if any
of them are of scarce kinds, which

you are desirous of propagating, |

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MARCH.

just below the third pair of leaves,
and these tops may be struck as
other cuttings. The plants will
strike out shoots on both sides,
which in turn may be shortened;
and thus an early-struck cutting
may be made the means of pro-
ducing a number of plants, which
is occasionally a great object, al-
though it does not produce them
so strong nor so serviceable as
those of the first strike from tuber
shoots. It is questionable, also,
whether a plant so produced will
bloom so well, although there are
kinds that do not suffer from such
treatment. All the cuttings, struck
and not struck, should be watered
daily over the foliage as well as
their roots, and be shut up and
shaded for a few hours. It is a
very good plan to water in the
evening at shutting-up time.

As those plants which are not
intended to be eut down grow
strong, they should be removed to
a cooler frame, that they may be-
come gradually more hardened;
for, although nothing short of frost
will hurt them when prepared
by cooling gradually, they would
suffer considerably if taken from
a hotbed to the open air direct.
In potting the tubers for breaking
the buds to form cuttings, every
appearance of decay, however
slight, should be removed, even if
it cause two-thirds of the roots
to be cut away. Seedling tubers
that are to be planted whole may
be at once put into the ground
four inches deep: they will not
come up before the time they will
bear the weather.

Evergreens may be transplanted
now, but we prefer the early part
of autumn.

Fuchsias. — Partially uncover
those in sheltered situations, cut

they may have their tops cut off| the shoots back to fresh buds,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MARCH.

and train them mostly to one lead-
ing stem. If they are much in-
jured cut them down to the
ground, and they will throw out
young shoots from the roots, and
thus form compact and handsome
bushes.

Gentianella (Gentiana acaulis)
may be planted for edgings to
flower-borders. 1t does well in the
shade.

Grafting.—The choice and rare
ornamental trees and shrubs that
are increased by these means must
be attended to this month. If
not already done the grafts should
be cut before they begin to start.

Hyacinths and Narcissuses.—The
beds outdoors require to be pro-
tected, the same as Tulip beds,
with hoops and mats. Forced
bulbs which have done blooming
should be hardened in a cold frame,
and planted out next month in a
warm sunny situation, where they
may perfect their foliage.

Mignonette.—Sow plenty of this
in the borders when the ground is
light, and also in pots for turning
out.

Mimulus.—Increase by division ;
plant either in beds or patches.

Pansies will commence this
mouth to bloom in the open air,
and all of them begin to grow
fast, unless there is frost to check
them. It is well to cover them
with any open litter, like peas
haulm, which keeps off a good
deal of frost, protects them from
all the cold winds, and does not
take away light. ‘The beneficial
tendency of this kind of litter to
all dwarf plants through the winter
and early spring months is either
not half enough known, or, being
known, not sufficiently practised.
Those in pots, under glass should
be shifted, if not done already;
or, if intended to be planted out

eee

803

in beds, the sooner it is done the
better. If there be any shoots of
choice sorts that you are desirous
of propagating, and that can be
spared without spoiling the ap-
pearance of the plant, they may
be struck very easily under a bell-
glass, and in any of the slight hot-
beds that may be at work; not
that heat is necessary, but that it
hastens the striking, and there-
fore, for choice things, is better
than waiting for the ordinary
method, otherwise they will strike
in the cold frame. It must be
recollected that in all cases where
bell-glasses are used the inside
should be wiped dry every morn-
ing, and the compost kept moist,
but not wet.

Perennials. — Many perennials
require to be sown now to bloom
next year. Established perennial
plants may also be divided and
transplanted during the early part
of the month; but the sooner it is
completed the better, in the ab-
sence of continued frost.

Pinks. — Put out those which
have been kept in hand-glasses;
plant them a foot apart in sandy
loam, leaf-mould, and rotten cow-
dung.

Pinus. — Protect those which
are putting forth young shoots.
In planting specimens drain the
ground well, trench, and plant
on the surtace, using fresh loam
to place about roots.

Primroses.—I\n favourite spots
place a little moss about the plauts,
to prevent the rain from dashing
the soil on to the flowers. Plant
out young plants, and sow seed.

Propagate ornamentzl trees and
shrubs of all kinds, according to
their respective Datures, by cut-
tings, layering, or grafting.

Aanunculuses, after planting,
should be covered slightly witu

504

litter, to prevent the frost pene-
trating the ground to the tubers;
and if any of them are not yet
planted they should be got in
without a moment’s delay, as di-
rected last month. In very mild
weather they will frequently be
above ground before the end of
March, and there is additional
reason then for covering; but in
all cases the litter should be re-
moved in warm genial weather,
to let the beds have all the ad-
vantage of sunshine: it will be
unsafe, however. to leave them
uncovered at night, after they are
once in the ground, until the
middle of May.

Seed -pans covered over with
damp moss at the time of sowing
should have the moss removed as

the seeds germinate, to expose |

them gradually to the light.

Stocks.—Pot and prick out the
early sowings; remove them to a
cold frame when they are become
established, and harden them off
by airing freely. Plant out those
kept in pots during winter, say at
eighteen inches apart; and the
richer the soil the better.

Sweet Peas.—Harden off those
sown last month, and sow now in
the open ground, both in patches
and single rows.

Sweetwilliams. — Plant out the
last year’s seedlings: let them be
put in masses. Sow a little seed
at the end of the month.

Thrift edgings may be taken up
and replanted: unless this is done
every two years they are apt to
get wide and unsightly.

Tigridias.—Bulbs may be plant-
ed in beds, in warm sheltered situ-
ations. Seeds may also be sown.

Tulips. — These, on coming
through the ground, generally
erack the surface all over the bed,
for the rains will have closed the

|

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MARCH.

compost at the top until the spikes
break it. The whole of the sur-
face should be stirred, and any
Inmps bruised, so that it may be
laid even: it is of the greatest
benefit to the bulbs to give them
air, and of infinite service to the
stems to lay the soil pretty close
tothem. If any vacancies occur—
where the plant has not come up,
while the main quantity has—it
will be necessary to search ecare-
fully for the cause. Sometimes a
stone or a hard lump of dirt will
have turned the spike downwards
or sideways for a considerdble dis-
tance, and thus thrown it behind.
The removal in time will relieve
it, so as to make the delay of small
consequence, It may be, however,
that the plant is affected; the
outer leaf may have begun to rot,
or, as is sometimes the case, may
have so completely closed over the
other as to prevent its growth,
and even cause it, if neglected, to
decay instead of grow. The de-
cayed part must, in such cases, be
entirely removed with a sharp
knife, and the plant be laid bare
down to the bulb. It should then
be covered a few days with a bell-
olass, and as it progresses the hole
filled up with fresh loam (for by
no means ought the same to be
returned to the place), and all the
portions of the rotted leaf or leaves
should be thrown away from the
bed. The covering of nights, and’
not uncovering even in the day if
there be frost, must be always ob-
served. Should the weather be
mild towards the end of the month,
and there be refreshing warm rains,
it will be of service to let the
Tulips have them; but be doubly
careful that the frost does not reach
them afterwards. Tulips do not
want much wet, but the foliage ac-
quires strength by a warm shower.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MARCH. 305

In continued dry weather it is
beneficial to give a gentle watering
all over the foliage, but not in such
quantity as to penetrate the earth
much.
Violetsmust be kept clean. Pro-
vision should be made at the end
of the month for the following sea-
son, by planting out the young
rooted runners in frames upon a
rich soil; keep them close, and
shade them for a day or two ; then
air freely, and afterwards remove
the sashes altogether. Another
plan is now to scatter some fresh
soil over the beds, in which the
young runners will root, and early
in autumn take them off and plant
them in prepared beds or frames.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

Those who take delight in a
succession of blooms should, the
first week in the month, prune one-
half the rough-barked Rose trees
that usually bloom in June. First
eut off the thin spindly branches
close to where they spring from,
then shorten the strong shoots
according to the form you wish
them to assume: the further back
they are cut the stronger the
shoots generally come. The pro-
portions of tree Roses should be
like those of an Oak, an Elm, or
any other handsome tree; the
head should be large in proportion
to the height of the stem ; the head
should, when fully grown, be quite
as large across as the stem is high
from the ground to the bottom
branches; therefore, in pruning,
cut sparingly while the Rose is
getting to its size, and, when once
it has attained this, the branches
that grow from season to season
may be shortened to even a single
eye, if desirable. It may be taken
as a general rule, that the less eyes
lefé to grow the more vigorous

the growth. Those now pruned
will be rather later than if tney
were not pruned at all. The object
of pruning half now, and half, as
we shall recommend, next month,
is to have two complete seasons;
for next month the buds nearer
the ends of the branches will
have advanced considerably, and
those nearest the stem will have
been retarded by the growth of
the others. The pruning will
throw them back a month, and
thus give you two complete sea-
sons; so that with care, and
pruning some back early, and
others late, a very continuous
bloom may be secured with the
various Roses. The principal
pruning required by the China
and Noisette kinds is to cut out
the small spindly weak shoots
from all parts, and shorten the
principal branches and_ shoots.
Tall-growing Roses for pillars or
wails, or fronts of houses, sliould
have the weak shoots cut clean
out, and those strong enough to
bear flowers shortened, except
where you want the wood. Many
climbing Roses should be spurred
from the bottom to the top, that
is, the shoots cut in to two or three
eyes, more or less, according to
the space they have to occupy.

Fastenings.—Look well to the
fastenings and stakes, treading
the ground close about the roots,
and remove all suckers and shocts
of the stock.

Roses in Pots.—Roses forcing,
small China Roses for bedding out,
and cuttings ready to pot off,
should be attended to, so as to
keep them now upon the move.

Cuttings for Grafting.—At the
end of the month gather all your
cuttings for graftmg: the fresher
they are the better, and the wood
must be ripe. Those you have

= ym

306

already got, if any, will not have
been much the worse for keeping
if they have been putin the ground.

Seedling Roses.—Sow seeds in
large pots or pans, in good rich
soil, strewing them thinly and just
covering them with sifted mould.
Care must be taken that the seeds,
when once sown, should never be
thoroughly dry, for alternations of
wet and dry would destroy them.
They should be set in a cold frame.

Seedlings of last year’s sowing
must be cleared of weeds, and, if
any of them are budded, see that
the stocks are freed from all shoots
and buds of their own growth, as
they will, if allowed to grow,
greatly check the buds which are
on them. If any seedlings of last
year remain in the pans, and have
not been planted out in pots singly,
they should be potted now in size
‘sixty, or left to plant out in the
open ground in May.

THE GREENHOUSE.

Azalea Indica.—The plants will
now be advancing very rapidly
towards blooming. If they are
merely required at the natural
season they may be submitted to
the general conditions of the green-
house; but at this season, if it is
required, a very little extra heat
and confinement will bring on their
flowers rapidly, and they may thus
_ be had in bloom at least a month
earlier than the natural season,
without anything like what is
termed “ forcing.” When the plants
have reached their present stage,
and the buds are progressing, it is
very important that they do not by
any chance become dry at the root,
which would cause their bloom-
buds to fall off, as well as many of
the older leaves. Shift any of the
- blooming plants that require it as
soon as their flowers are faded:

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MARCH.

young plants not required for
blooming may be shifted at once.

Botany Bay plants will many of
them be in bloom, and these must
be sufficiently supplied with water.
Young stock plants intended for
specimens should be repotted into
large pots as soon as they require
the additional space for their roots ;
and the branches of such plants
should, as soon as they grow a
little length, be topped, so as to
form a dense bushy plant. There
are but few exceptions to the
necessity of thus topping young
plants to form bushy specimens ;
but there are those subjects which
naturally assume a pyramidal form
of growth, as for example, Hrio-
stemon buaxifolium, which should
not be topped at all.

Calceolarias for late blooming
should be repotted now, the earlier
ones having had a good shift last
month. These plants are very
liable to be attacked by aphides,
which, unless speedily destroyed,
do them irreparable injury. Sup-
port the flowering stems of any of
the plants that are beginning to
produce them.

Camellia Japonica.— The varie-
ties of this splendid evergreen
will now be many of them out of
flower. This we think a favour-
able time for repotting such as
need it; for Camellias, be it re-
membered, especially when they
get into good-sized pots, stand for
three or four years without suffer-
ing any injury. Young plants, of
course, if vigorous and progressing
favourably, may have an annual
shift, which some prefer to give
in the autumn; but we would rather
repot them just as the flowers
fade, and before the young shoots
elongate. Of course, at such a
juncture, it must not be rudely
done, so as to damage the roots,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MARCH.

or the young shoots would be
damaged also. Keep them rather
closer, and well syringed with tepid
water while the young shoots are
growing, and until the embryo
bloom-buds are apparent at the
thickened tips of the shoots; then
give more air and less water to
ripen and rest them. Those not
shifted should be surface-dressed
with rich loamy soil, the fertilising
properties of which will be washed
down into the soil, and nourish
the growing parts.

Chinese Primroses.—Towards the
end of the month sow some
seeds, to furnish a batch of early
autumn -blooming plants. Get
them potted singly into small pots
as soon as possible, and placed in
a close pit; but grow them during
summer in a cool frame. Any old
plants that are thought worth pre-
serving, especially the double-
flowered varieties, may be partially
reduced, and repotted into smaller
pots, in rather poor sandy soil,
and treated as seedlings in the
frames or pits.

Chrysanthemums. — A few cut-
tings should be put in for a supply
of plants for blooming in pots.

Cinerarias.—Secure seeds of the
finer varieties, either impregnated
artificially, or from plants set
close together with a view to its
being effected by natural agencies.
Any of the earliest plants that
may be declining bloom should
have the stems cut away, and be
set in a frame where they can be
kept rather close until suckers are
produced. If any late plants re-
main unshifted they should now
be potted at once.

Climbers starting into growth
should be shifted into large pots,
and have their permanent trellises
if not already supplied. The
training of them should be care-

307

fully attended to, from time to
time, before the branches get into
a confused and entangled mass.
Train them on their trellises as
they grow, that the face of them
may be always fair; and if any
are of a form to require a face all
round, the plant must be turned
to the light daily.

Dressing.—Stir the surface of
the soil in all the pots that have
indicated damp and moss, examine
the drainage of any that appear
more moist than others, and see
that all is elear, for the wet would
soon destroy a plant.

Ericas. — Large plants seldom
require repotting more than once
a year, and this should be done
with each particular variety just
at the juncture when it is ready
to renew its growth. Young plants
may be shifted oftener. Let all
those commencing growth be re-
potted forthwith. These plants
must never be allowed to get dry
at the root. Recently - shifted
plants require less water than
those which have their pots very
full of roots: if too much water
is given to the former the soil
gets sour and soddened, and in
that case the roots canuot make
healthy progress.

Fuchsias.—Take off cuttings of
the young shoots from the old
plants, if they have been started
in heat. hese cuttings, rooted
quickly in a hotbed frame, and
grown on during spring in a warm
greenhouse, make the handsomest
of all blooming plants for the
summer. The old plants now
growing freely must be repotted
according to their wants. These
old plants, if trained up to a single
stem, make handsome standards.
Start the roots of Fuchsia fulgens
in a hotbed frame, and harden
them off, after they begin growing,

308

to bear the temperature of the
greenhouse.

Geraniums.—The great bulk of
the late- blooming plants require
repotting into larger pots, and
they should now be placed in
those in which they are to bloom.
Do not pot them all at once ; make
two or three sets, selecting first
the strongest, then the most vi-
gorous of the remainder a week
or so afterwards, and, lastly, the
smallest. This will do something
towards keeping up a succession
of blossom; but the topping of
the shoots has also a bearing on
this point. After the plants are
put into their blooming-pots the
outer branches should be tied down
towards the pot-rim, which will
give the others more space. Select
some large bushy plants of some
of the fine varieties of Scarlet
Pelargonium, and shift them into
large pots of rich soil. They will
be splendid objects in the course
of the summer for standing out
in conspicuous parts of the garden.

Heating.—Light fires in damp
weather, and give air at top of
the house to dry the place. Let
this be done in the morning, and
continued all day, apportioning the
opening at the top to the tempera-
ture, which the ventilation should
prevent from being materially
raised, the object being to dry the
house, and not to raise the heat.

Japan Lilies should now be
potted for blooming in pots. Pot
them so as to leave a space of
three or four inches in depth for
the addition of fresh soil when |

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MARCH.

they are grown up to some size.
The bulbs should have no water
until they commence growing.

Rhododendrons of the tender
kinds going out of flower must
have their young growth encou-
raged. Next season’s bloom de-
pends upon its being well formed
and perfect.

Seedlings of soft-wooded plants,
as Calceolarias, Cinerarias, Gera-
niums, &c., sown in autumn,
should have their final shift now,
previously to blooming. Do not
put them into very large pots—
at least not until they have in-
dicated that they are of some
value.

Thunbergias sown early this
month in a hotbed, potted singly,
and nursed on in a frame until
they can bear the greenhouse tem-
perature, make fine pot-creepers
for blooming towards the end of
summer. Use unctuous peaty soil.

Watering.— In watering waste
as little as possible, as the frequent
necessity of closing the house
against frost makes the damp the
principal enemy to be feared, and
slopping quantities of water about
unnecessarily increases the evil.
Many of the hard-wooded plants
will begin to swell their bloom-
buds, and must have constant at-
tention paid to the degree of
moisture in their compost ; for they
must not have too much, and what
they have should be soft, pure, and
rather of a higher than a lower
temperature than the house. There
is a great good or a great evil ad-
ministered in watering plants.

309

OM PRIL.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

Auriculas.—This is a most im-
portant month in the culture and
exhibition of the Auricula; the
trusses of bloom rise, perfect them-
selves, and fade. As soon as the
truss begins to grow and develope
its pips they should be reduced in
number, by taking out with small
pincers those least likely to be per-
fected; but seven being required
for the exhibitions round the me-
tropolis, and five in places where
they are least particular, you must
not reduce the number within one
or two of what you require until
the flowers are showing colour, and
you can perceive which will be the
most perfect. As soon as you can
handle the pips to direct their
places in the truss some very fine
moss should be tucked between
the foot-stalks, to give all the pips
room alike to open; for if they
are left to themselves they will be
crumpled, and their shape will be
spoiled by crowding each other:
the moss between the stalks can
be made to throw back the outer
pips, and thus give room to spread
the inner ones. As soon, however,
as the bloom-trusses are ready for
all these operations, they must be
protected against the hot sun.
This is best done with the trans-
parent covering for frames; and
when the flowers, from their rapid

growth and opening, want daily
adjusting, it is right to find them
a warm corner—at least, one shel-
tered from the north-east winds—
and there place them on a table,
with hand- glasses (propped up
nearly to the edge of the pots)
covering them: this is easily done
with inverted flower-pots of rather
a smaller size. An ordinary full-
sized hand-glass will cover nine
plants ; but if you have plenty of
room and glasses they are better
not crowded. All the plants must
be examined daily, and the moss
between the pips so adjusted as to
make allowance for the expansion
of each pip without touching any
other. Night and day they must
be covered against extremes of
heat and cold. In the daytime the
transparent calico will keep off
enough of the sun, and at night
they must be closed with heavier
material against cold; for a chill
will fix the blooms and prevent
their opening flat. By watching
the blooms, and keeping all the
pips in their places while they are
growing and opening, they require
nothing on the show-day but gently
withdrawing the moss from be-
tween the foot-stalks under the
blooms, so as not to injure the de-
licate powder which gives beauty
to this favourite flower, and the

310

pips will naturally close together
at the edges: a little adjustment
of them in their places, so as to
prevent them lapping over each
other, will be necessary at the last
moment. Water is to be given
freely all the month, and especially
to the blooming plants; while all
offsets and small plants, though
not so lavishly supplied, must
nevertheless be kept moist.

Alpines.—Increase the supplies
of water. Plant out what can be
spared in romantic spots, but keep
duplicates of the better sorts in
pots.

Anemones —Sow early on a loamy
soil of medium texture and rich-
ness; separate the seed by mixing
with silver sand; sow thin, and
cover slightly, and shade if the sun
is scorching.

Annuals,—Harden off and plant
out those of the hardy kinds kept
in frames, and sow again early.
The half - hardy kinds must be
shifted. Preserve some of the best
to flower in pots, and put out the
rest by the end of the month in a
good situation ; protect them by in-
verted pots, or fir or other boughs,
from wind, cold, and sun. To keep
off vermin place a ring of quick-
lime around them. Sow both in
heat and in the open border: the
slightest kind of hotbed will be
sufficient.

Biennials and Perennials are
sown this month or next, that they
may acquire growth during the fine
months. When they are large
enough to handle conveniently
they may be planted out in nur-
sery-beds, to be strengthened and
got ready for planting where they
are to bloom before the winter sets
in, autumn removal being far
better than spring.

Builbs.—As the bulbs come into

flower examine them carefully, and |

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR APRIL.

see that they are true. Ifthe if-
ferent sorts or colours are mixed
mark them while in flower, so that
the mistake may be rectified when
the roots are taken up. When the
ground is required for other plants
the bulbs should be taken np on
the first calm moist day that pre-
sents, and carefully laid in so as
to ripen their foliage without being
again disturbed. If this is done
carefully they will not suffer very
much from the change.

Carnations and Picotees.—These
must be potted this month in size
sixteen, or twelve, or eight pots,
according as you wish to have one,
two, or three plants ina pot. The
compost has been already de-
scribed. The mode of potting is
to fill the pots one-third full of
crocks, rather sunk in the middle,
to form a basin; then put some
soil over the crocks, about enough
to make the ball of earth in which
the plants are taken from their
store pots stand, so that the upper
surface may be level with the top
of the pot. Now take the plant,
with its ball of earth, out of the
small pot, by tapping the edge of
it wrong side downwards, with two
fingers on each side of the plants,
so that the ball and plants will be
bottom upwards, and the surface
in your hand; turn this over
gently, and put in the middle of
the large pot; fill up all round it
with the compost, gently pressing
with a small stick, so that it may
be closed about the ball, but not
rammed hard; give the large pot
two or three taps upon the table
to settle it all well together, and
before leaving them give a little
water. These, if potted early in
the month, should be put into a
sheltered situation, and by right
on shelves, or stages formed of
boards placed along flower-pots

* CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR APRIL.

turned wrong side upwards in flat
pans of water, to keep off vermin,
which might otherwise crawl up
the stage and eat the plants, It
has been said that pitch is a good
thing to mix a little of with the
soil. The inference is drawn from

a fact which has been related, that
when the sticks which are placed |
in the pots to train them up are
dipped in pitch, the roots mat
round them so much as to pre-
vent their being withdrawn with-
out dragging the plant or plants
up with it. Charcoal has also been
recommended, and a few lumps of
it can do no harm; but, from the
supposed operation of charcoal on
vegetation, itis much more likely |
to be efficacious as a top-dressing.

China Asters. — The principal
batch may now be sown on light |
rich: soil under shelter: they do
not require heat.

Climbers will be benefited by
thinning the shoots. Regulate and
tie or nail in as required : this can
neyer be so well done, or done at
all without injury, if the shoots
are once allowed to get entangled.

Crocus. — At the end of the
month the leaves may be tied up
in knots out of the way of other
plants until well ripened; mean-
while the ground can be sown or |
planted.

Dahlias.—Remove plants which
are large enough for planting into
a cool frame, and be careful no
frosts nor cold winds reach them,
for they are very tender. Con-
tinue taking off cuttings, and
striking them in their single pots,
if you have room; if not, anumber
of cuttings round the edge of a
Jarger one. Take the tops off the
forward plants, of which you re-
quire great numbers, and replace
the decapitated plant in heat, to

throw out its side-shoots.

Q
v0

1]

Fuchsias. — Remove the cover-
ings by degrees, thin out the
shoots, and in most cases train
them with one leading stem.

Godetia.—This tine genus of or-
namental hardy annuals offers an
exception to what is usual among
annual plants, for they do best in
peor soil, especially if it be rather
light and sandy; their delicate
tints and markings are brought
out better under such circum-
stances than in rich soil,

Hollyhocks.—TYhese fine flowers
for planting among shrubs may be
sown during this month for next

| year’s flowering.

Hyacinths.—The beds of these
plants should be slightly protected

‘at night, and during heavy rain,

where fine blooms are looked for,
and also shaded from intense sun
heat. Water the beds if the weather
is dry.

Lobelias are all worthy of atten-
tion. ‘The herbaceous perennial
kinds should be separated, and
potted afresh into light soil, and
placed in a hotbed for a few weeks:
prepare a place for them by digging
and riehly manuring.

Mignonette.—That kept in pots
may be planted out the middle of

the month to give immediate
effect. Thin out the early sow-
ings.

Pansies may now be bedded out.
Plant out a batch of struck cut-
tings every fortnight if blooms are
required for exhibition, for they go
off blooming sometimes a while,
and itis better to depend on several
seasons of planting than on one.
Plant at least six inches apart, and
not more than seven in a row,
across a four-feet-wide bed.

Pink beds may be yet made;
but the greatest caution will be re-
quired to remove the roots whole,
to avoid their losing the moisture

CALENDAR OF OPE]

he

.u12
by exposure, and to keep them out
of ground as short a time as pos-
sible. The bed should be formed
of rich compost; that is to say,
rich in vegetable mould, or leaf.
mouldasitis called, and thoroughly
decomposed cowdung, which is
formed into mould also by decay.
The Pink always requires plenty
of vegetable matter in the compost,
and the more necessary does it be-
come if removed so late. Plant six
inches apart in rows across a four-
feet bed.

Polyanthuses.— Treat these the
same as Auriculas if they are in
pots; but if in the open border,
which is by far the best way of
growing them, stir the mould up
between them, and give a good
dressing of leaf-mould and cow-
dung mould; take off dead leaves;
guard all round the bed from slugs
with some fresh lime, which wil!
keep them away altogether; but
the lime must reach all round, or
they will be able to get to the
plants, and they soon destroy them
when there is a beginning made.

Ranunculuses. — Continue the
protection of loose litter, not only
at night, but in cold, raw, wintry
days, of which there may be many

et.

Shrubs.—It is a late period to
plant out shrubs; but if you have
not already done all you want in
that way, you must exercise your
ingenuity to remove them as whole
as youcan, Many deciduous plants
cannot be removed, for they are
growing rapidly, and would flag
past recovery for the season, if not
actually die, with all the care that
could be used, The exceptions are
such subjects as are growing in
pets, which can be removed at any
time, and in any weather, by taking
the precaution of soaking the whole
ground around them with water;

t\ATIONS FOR

APHIL.

but if they are turned ont of the
pot in dry weather when the earth
is parched, and merely watered in,
as too many do such things, the
| parched earth around soon absorbs
it all, and the plant suffers accord-
ingly. It is well to do all these
unseasonable movings after wet
weather has prevailed; but when
you have not this opportunity, and
do not like to wait for it, soak the
ground completely ali round for
some distance, and follow it up by
daily supply until the rain relieves
you of the labour.

Stocks.—Many may be planted
out, and others brought on to fol-
low them. German Stocks sown
now will bloom finely in autumn:
the soil must be rich and well
worked.

Sweet Scabious.—Seeds of this
plant may be sown now : the plants
will come in serviceable next Sep-
tember, when flowers are getting
searce.

Sweetwilliams. — Sow a good
bed of these from the best selected
seed that can be obtained.

Tender Annuals in Pots.—Bal-
sams, Cockscombs, Egg plants,
Ice plants, Tricolors, Amaranthus,
and other plants usually grown
into specimens, must be shifted
from the pots they were first
pricked into to those of a size
larger as soon as the roots reach
the edges, and must be continued
in heat. If the first sowing has
not yet been potted into single
pots let it be done at once, or as
soon as they are large enough.

Tulips.— Continue the greatest
care of these delicate subjects. not
allowing the frost on any consider-
ation to touch the best bed, on ac-
count of the damage it does to the
bloom, for the plant hardly feels
the hardest frost even when it
reaches the roots. Allow no weeds

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR APRIL.

to spring up among them, and pro-
tect them against high winds, al-
though a gentle agitating breeze
does not by any means hurt them.
Cover at night, even if the weather
be warm; but they should be un-
covered by daylight if the weather
permit. Gentle showers will not
injure them; on the contrary, if
mild it does them great service ;
and if the weather be dry and
parching be not afraid of syringing
the foliage all over. If, despite
your care, the frost does catch
them, syringe them all over with
cold water, and let no sun reach
them till they are thawed. If the
earth was not stirred between all
the bulbs last month it must be
done directly; and if they have had
much rain since it was stirred, so
as to cake the surface and make it
run close together, it may be gently
stirred again. If any of the foliage
has a spot of yellow on it, or any
appearance of canker, remove the
affected part with a knife; for if
the whole foliage above ground be
cut away there is more chance of
the bulb escaping than if the canker
was left on; for its increase, until
the very heart of the plant and the
bulb itself is rotted, is almost a
certainty.

Violets.—Strew over and about
the old plants with fresh soil to
encourage runners, from which
young plants will issue: these can
be transplanted when well rooted.

Wallflowers —Seeds of the single
ones should be sown towards the
end of the month for next year’s
blooming. A good supply of cut-
tings of the double ones should be
got in. The varieties most worth
seeking for are a double blood red,
flowers very dark; a double bright
yellow, brilliant colour, and with
narrower leaves than any of the
others; a dwarf dingy double yel-

515

low, called the Hornet; and a
double purple, which has flowers
of a peculiar purplish tint. These
should be rooted under hand-
glasses, and kept in pots through
the winter.

Borders will by this time show
all their bulbs and herbaceous
plants, so that the surface may
be stirred up and raked without
damaging the contents; whereas,
if you began before all these things
were up, although labels might
point out the places, they would
be in great danger.

Gravel walks should be turned
towards the end of the month, and
rolled smooth; it gives them all
the appearance of new ones; and
if the gravel be too dirty or too
thin a fresh coat of it will be de-
sirable.

Lawns. — When the grass is
rather thin, either scatter some
rich soil mixed with some of the
proper fine lawn-grass seeds, or
lay fresh turf. If it is not very
bad the first is the best plan; but
it is best done in autumn. All
lawns should be frequently rolled
and swept, and mown. Much of
the beauty of a lawn during the
summer depends on commencing
to mow early in the spring, and
repeating it very frequently, say
once a week,

Tie up the stems of any plants
that require support. This is best
done as soon as it is seen to be
required, and not left, as is too
often the case, until the stems are
blown on one side and become
crooked, in which state they can
never be tied up in an orderly
manner.

Verges.—The verges of beds and
borders should be cut even, and of
uniform width, for their growth
during the winter is generally un-
even, the most hardy grasses con-

5314

tinuing to thrive through almost
all weathers, while the more
tender are checked through the
winter.

Water the different kinds of
choice flowers carefully if the
weather proves dry. <A good deal
of their success depends on their
being properly watered when the
blooms are advancing.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

Grafting.—This month, even in
ordinary seasons, Roses begin to
grow in earnest. At the early part
of it grafting should be done. ‘The
stock should begin to swell at the
buds; but whether the graft has
begun to swell or not is not of
much consequence. The best way
te join the graft to the stock is to
cut a slit in the stock on one side
of a bud left near the top, not near
enough to damage it, and take out
with a very sharp knife a piece of
the form of a V, and cut the graft
with a sharp edge of the form of a
thick - backed knife. The graft
should be of well-ripened wood;
two eyes should be below the top
of the stock, and one or two above.
When fitted get bass matting or
coarse worsted to tie it in its
- place; and this done, cover the
whole with grafting wax so as to
exclude the air. This wax should
be so made as to melt at a mode-
rate heat, and to harden in the or-
dinary temperature.

Budded and Grafted Roses. —
Look well at the stocks of all last
year’s budded and grafted Roses;
take off all the growth of the stock
wherever there has been any, and
rub off all the buds of the stock
that start. The only exception to
this rule is the top bud of the
grafted stock, which, being there
to draw the sap up past the graft,
must be allowed to grow until}

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR APRIL.

the graft has united; but as soon
as the bud has started four inches
it must be topped to check it a
little, and as soon as the graft
begins to grow, the growth of the
stock may be stopped. Those
stocks of which the buds have
failed, and which are intended for
budding again, should have all
the side-shoots cut off, and all the
stem that is above the upper
growing branch.

Pruning. — If any Rose trees
have been left over, according to
last month’s directions, for late
blooming, cut them back to two
eyes (or more, if the wood is
wanted to fill more space). It will
be found that all the buds toward
the ends of the branches grow
long before those close at the
bottom.

Succession plants for the forcing-
house must be taken in as re-
quired, and so must Roses for
showing in pots; but this must be
regulated according to the season
at which you want them. Those
who want to make the most of
Roses may bloom them _ every
month in the year.

There is a method of growing the
dwarf delicate Roses in clumps
which is worth trying. Plant
them about nine inches apart in a
well-prepared bed; get large white
flints and place between them, so
as to shelter them half way up,
and only leaving them room to
grow; and even stuff good moss
here and there in the vacancies,
partly for warmth, and partly be-
cause it is showy. The Roses, if
well chosen, will bloom all the
summer, and even a hard winter
will only cut them down to the
moss; they will in the spring
grow as vigorously as ever. The
end of this month such a bed or
clump may be planted by turning

CALENDAR OF
the plants out of the pots, and
placing them at proper distances.

THE GREENHOUSE.

Fires will now scarcely ever be
required, though, if there shouid
be frost, it niust be kept out more
rigorously then ever, now that most
of the plants will be advancing
ranidly in growth. In the gene-
Yality of years, however, no frost
will oceur likely to affect the
plants inside, which at this season
will require exposure to all the
mild air they can have. Not only
all the day, but at night also, to
some extent, if mild, the house
should be ventilated. The worst
and least interesting of the plants,
as well as some or all of the du-
plicates, should now be removed
-from this house to a cold frame, in
order to give the better subjects
more space.

Azalea Indica.—W hen the young
shifted plants are growing freely
the strongest shoots should be
topped, to produce a dense bushy
habit. This applies chiefly to plants
in process of formation; larger
ones already arrived at a blooming
size seldom require this manipu.
lation. See that the plants as yet
unbloomed do not want for water.
Shift such of the flowering plants
as require it as they go out of
flower.

Botany Bay plants, as they go
out of flower, should be shifted
according to their respective
wants, the irregular’ branches
pruned back so as to reduce the
plants to a snug compact form,
and then allowed to make new
growth for next year’s flowering.
This new growth should be got
as forward as possible, in order
that it may be thoroughly ripened
during summer.

Caleeolarias advancing rapidly

OPERATIONS FOR APRIL.

315

towards flowering must have their
stems supported in some way, or
the weight of the fiowers will
cause them to lie about in all di-
rections in a very unorderly way.
There is a great objection to the
innumerable stakes often used;
therefore avoid using more than
are essential. The best supports
are very slender slips of deal,
painted dull or invisible ‘green.
Be careful to destroy the aphides
before the flowers begin to open.

Camellias should have a daily
syringing with tepid water, and
the warmest corner of the green-
house reserved for them, until
the incipient flower-buds have
become ‘ set.”

Chinese Primroses. — Seedlings
sown last month must now be
potted singly: keep them on a
warm shelf unless you can accom-
modate them for a week or two in
a moderately warm pit. At the
end of the month sow a good
batch to supply plants for the next
winter and spring. Watch any
choice plants now in bloom fora
supply of seed, which is generally
formed at this season when the
plants get plenty of air.

Cinerarias.—Shade the plants
in blossom during very bright
sunshine. Sow any seeds that
have been obtained. ‘The chances
of obtaining a further supply will
now be increased, as all plants
seed better when they have a more
perfect play of air about them, as
greenhouse plants have at this
season. Cut down the plants that
have done blooming or have passed
their prime, in order to facilitate
the production of suckers, which
are to be parted, potted separately
into small pots, and set in a close
frame as soon as they acquire suf-
ficient size.

Hricas.—With increased light,

816

heat, and ventilation, there will be
an increased evaporation from the
soil, which wonld soon, if neg-
lected, so far part with its mois-
ture as to destroy the plants.
Watering is the preventive means ;
and in this, as in many other
cases, prevention is better than
cure, if the proverb can be said
to be applicable where cure is
impossible, Nothing will revive a
Heath that has become thoroughly
dry at the root. Shift such of
the plants as prepare to make new
growth,

Geraniums.—The earlier plants
will, during this month, begin to
Open their blossoms. Whatever
tying up or supporting may be
necessary should be done before
many of the blossoms are ex-
panded. Put in cuttings for the
supply of a few late autumn and
winter flowering plants. The ex-
panded flowers will last some days
longer if they are covered over
to prevent the access of bees and
other nectar-sipping insects. As
the plants go out of flower they
must be cut low down, and stood
in the full sun with very little
water until they break.

Fuchsias.—Let the young plants
from cuttings be shifted on from
one pot to another as fast as they

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR APRIL.

produce roots throughout the ball
of earth: the plants should stand
in the full light. They do as well
in frames as in the greenhouse—
perhaps better. The shoots on
the old pruned stems must be
thinned out where they crowd
each other, and regulated so as to
form a handsome plant.

Cuttings. —This is a good gene-
ral season for putting in cuttings
of greenhouse plants to obtain a
young stock; they root better -
than they do in the height of
summer, when the sun often over-
powers them, notwithstanding any
shading that may be given them.

Late-blooming Plants. — Select
some healthy young bushy plants
of free-flowering subjects, as Sal-
vias, scarlet Geraniums, Helio-
tropes, Hupatorium — serotinum,
shrubby Calceolarias, Leonotis leo-
nurus, Neja gracilis, &c., and grow
them on during summer in a cold
frame with plenty of air, remov-
ing all the blooming shoots pro-
duced up to September, or as late
as may be desired: they should
be shifted as often as they need it.
Such plants, if allowed to grow on
in autumn, will come into flower
at that season, and prove highly
useful for the decoration of the
greenhouse.

317

MAY.

eee ee

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

Anemones.—The autumn-planted
ones in a forward state require
nothing but watering, seedling
beds to be kept clear of weeds,
and any that may be in flower to
be marked or rejected. Seed may
be sown in a rich open bed.

Antirrhinums. — These should
be hoed between the rows in the
open ground, and those in pots
shifted to others the size they are

-to bloom in. We speak of the
fancy varieties grown in collec-
tions.

Annuals.—A second sowing may
be got in, in the beds and borders
of those which were sown in
heat for planting out and pot-
ting, such as Nemophila, China
‘Aster, Stocks, Mignonette, Phlox
Drummondi, and French Marigold.
Those ready for planting out
should be got in after rain. They
will bloom much earlier than those
sown now, which will succeed them
in flowering.

Auriculas—As the blooms of
these decline let them be placed
on a hard bottom, and have all the
weather, in a situation shaded
from the mid-day sun. If you do
not want the seed pick off the
pods, but do not shorten the stem.
Those who have the convenience
should place them in frames, where
they may be allowed all the genial

rains, and yet can be shaded, and,
if necessary, covered from an ex-
cess of wet.

Biennials.—W allfiowers, Sweet-
williams, Canterbury Bells, and
two-year Stocks, and all biennials,
may be sown this month.

Balsams.—Shift these into larger
pots as they fill the old ones with
roots. Keep them in a hotbed
near the glass. At the end of the
month you may plant out any
number in the common border.

Campanula.—The fine chimney
Campanulas should be now shifted
into their largest or blooming-pots
in rich soil, and be allowed to grow
in the open air. As the shoots
rise regulate the number you want,
and cut the others down. Putin
the frames or stakes to which they
are to be trained.

Carnations and Picotees should
be well watered, and traps set to
catch earwigs and other vermin.
They ought to be placed on a
stage, or on shelves so constructed
as that the legs or supports may
stand in dishes of water. The
stakes should be placed in their
pots if not done already. It isa
bad plan to neglect this too long,
as it may damage the fibres when
they once begin to spread abroad
in the pot.

Chrysanthemums. — These may

518 CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MAY.

be struck now as well as in the! gating house is available. Until
next three months, but the later you plant out, those which are
they are taken from the tops of struck should be put into cold
well - grown plants the better. frames, not to be subject to the
Those struck now may be grown | weather, but to be gradually inured
until July, when their tops may be | to out-of-door treatment till the
struck again, and form very dwarf | middle of the month, when they

plants,

verted to fine bushy ones.
will strike freely now under a
hand-glass in the common border,
or in pots under a bell-glass.

Climbing plants on walls should
be fastened as they grow, particu-
larly weakly subjects like Clematis,
which break with the wind if left
hanging about. They ought never
to be neglected two days, for they
are worse for it.

Cockscombs. — Let them grow
without watering until they are
starved into the premature show-
ing of their blooms, when the
roundest and fullest are to be
selected, and potted singly into
sixty-sized pots, put into a hot-
bed in good condition, kept near
the glass with plenty of water and
heat, and as they fill the pots
changed to larger ones, constantly
kept up to the glass, with unim-
paired heat.

Crocuses.—As soon as the grass
of those bulbs that are to remain
in the ground turns yellow it may
be eut even with the ground. | All
that are wanted up may be had up,
and kept, with their names, dry and
cool.

Crown Imperial.—As soon as
the foliage fades into yellow cut
them down to the ground, or dig
them up; but such soft bulbs
should never be long out of
ground.

Dahlias.—Take off cuttings, and
strike them one in a pot. There
is nothing so good for this as a
common dung-bed ; but the propa-

while the stems of those| may be planted out where they
they are taken from may be con-| are to bloom.

Let the stakes be

They | first driven down where they are

to remain, then dig holes at the
stakes, and putin the plants ; then
use the pots they are taken out of
to put on the stakes, with a little
moss inside to form a trap for ear-
wigs, and examine them daily from
the first. Dahlias want six feet of
room, though they often get but
four.

Everyreens of the better kind,
and especially specimens, should
be examined, and where there are
branches growing out of form take
the tops off, or shorten the branches
still more than that; take away
very weak shoots also, and give air,
light, and sun, by removing wood
when it is too crowded.

Gladiolus merely require to be
kept clear of weeds, the earth
loosened a little, and watered in
very dry weather.

Hyacinths.—If the foliage has
turned yellow take them up care-
fully, dry them properly, remove
the offsets for early planting.
While the large bulbs are for dis-
posal in the best beds at the
proper season, some of the late
ones will not perhaps be ready
till next month: shade these from
the sun to prolong the bloom.

Hollyhocks.—1f these are in ex-
posed situations they will require
stakes like the Dahlia, but if well
sheltered they wiil need no sup-
port.

Iris.—The perennial Irises in
all their variety (we mean those
with tuberous roots) should be

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MAY.

kept clear of weeds, and the earth
loosened round their patches ; the
bulbous kinds should have their
beds watered if the weather be
very dry, and be shaded when they
show colour.

Lily.—The large-flowering sorts
in pots should be sheltered. Al-
though not tender, they would
suffer from wind and rain; but
their proper place is the cold pit.
The hardy sorts in the borders re-
quire no care whatever. Seedlings
of all kinds should be kept clean.

Lupinus polyphyllus—There is
scarcely a family more numerous
than the Lupine, from Lupinus na-
nus to Lupinus Cruikshankii. They
are of all sizes and colours, but the
most superb is Lupinus polyphyllus,
which has a splendid spike, and is
worthy of all praise; nor is it the
less acceptable on account of the
many shades of colour which dis-
tinguish it from more common
ones, nor for being a very hardy
perennial. We consider it so neces-
sary an appendage to the border,
that we recommend sowing a few
seeds for the sake of possessing
whatever new varieties may come,
and enabling you to throw away
any that are worse than the ori-
ginal.

Mimulus seed may be sown the
first of the month in clumps at
the foot of trees, or in beds al-
lotted to it, where they may flower
without any care or trouble. They
are very brilliant when in bloom.
Plant out those sown early in
pots—they will be a month earlier
in flower.

Peony. — These plants are for
the most part showing their bloom.
Some of the varieties want sup-
port; others grow down to the
ground, and provide the support
for themselves. There is hardly
a more striking plant than a

519

Peony in full bloom. The Tree
Peony is not so good in the flower
as some of the herbaceous kinds,
but it is a noble plant notwith-
standing.

Pansy. — Now in_ perfection.
Shade particular flowers, but not
whole beds. ‘Take off cuttings, or,
which is better, side-shoots, and
strike them under hand-glasses in
the common border.

Paths.—The first part of the
month pick up and turn all gravel
walks. Begin this by chopping
up all the weeds and clearing the
surface, then with a common pick
loosen the gravel from end to
end, with a spade turn the clean
side to the top, and the dirty side
to the bottom ; and, if the walk be
too thinly gravelled to do this, take
the rake to it after it is loosened,
and merely freshen it up a little.
Let it be well rolled afterwards,
and keep it rolled after rains, as
indeed all gravel walks should be,
whether disturbed or not.

Petunias. — If a collection of
these are grown, and you have
among them any of those weakly
varieties which will not support
themselves, you must resort to
sticks. It is a most untidy flower,
and is almost a trellis plant: noris
it long pretty even as a border
flower, though it keeps in bloom
a considerable time. Now is the
period the weakly ones require
sticks, and those which are to be
turned out in the borders require
topping. Those in pots should
be trained after some fashion, or
they will hang over their pots, and
be hardly endurable. The plain
varieties are hardly worth growing;
but there are some which, from
their habits, which are shrubby,
and others for their colours, which
are curiously striped or spotted,
may be grown for pots. All those

320

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MAY.

plants whose pots are filled with |root to it, and be planted out six
roots must be shifted, and the soil inches apart, to grow into strength
may be the same as for Fuchsias. again.

Those to be turned out need no

shifting, because by the end of the | tween the rows;

month they may be planted out.

* Ranunculus.—Stir the earth be-
water effectually
when you water at all. The au-

Phlox.—All the perennial kinds | tumn planted now in bloom may

merely want looking to, with a)

view of providing sticks for the |

tall ones as they grow up. The
Phlox Drummondi, which, strictly
speaking,
perpetuated by constantly making
cuttings.
the winter may be planted out in
the borders, or be potted to bloom
that way. The difficulty of obtain-
ing seed to be depended on ren-
ders it desirable to treat this plant
as a perennial. Taking cuttings
from it several times, and depend-
ing only upon them, enables the
cultivator to choose his own plants
from the first lot of seedlings he
grows. We recommend seed to
be sown and saved from the best
every year, but cuttings to be
taken from all that are remarkably
good, until a sufficient number of
varieties are secured of the better
kind. This may be sown at once
in the open border.

Pinks. — By the end of the
month you may reduce the flower-
stems to one on each plant. Top-
dress, if not done already, with
decomposed cowdung. Water in
dry weather. Keep clear of weeds.

Polyanthus. — Part them care-
fully, so that a heart may havea
piece of root, and plant out in
good strong loamy soil, and in a
situation not reached by the mid-
day sun. Sow seed in large pots,
and keep it in frames.

Primroses.—The double white,
double crimson, and purple, having
now passed their flowering, let
them be parted like the Polyanthus,
every heart with a bit of good

is an annual, may be)

Those saved through |

| angles,

“require watering and shading too,
to preserve their colours and pro-
long the flowering.

Rhododendrons. — Those which
have been protected are for the
most part in bloom, or have passed
their flowering. The bunches of
decayed flower and_ seed - pods
should be removed instantly, for
the swelling of the seed-pods de-
tracts greatly from the growth; so
much so, that it is a very common
thing for the plants left with their
seed on to fail altogether to pro-
duce bloom for the next year,
Therefore, as soon as the bloom
has begun to fade, take off the
bunch of seed-pods, and continue
this. If there be avy disposition
to grow out of form, prune in a
very long branch before the growth
begins; but those plants which
have been unprotected have not
bloomed yet.

Scarlet Lychnis.—This is one of
the most brilliant, perhaps, of the
perennials. A tall plant, three
feet and upwards, with a head of
fiery scarlet flowers, grown in
masses, could not be surpassed
easily by anything else we have in
the garden. Loosen the earth
round the plants, and provide
some kind of support. Generally
three moderate sticks, about
eighteen inches high, placed at
and a piece of. bass matting,
will be sufficient to hold a mass of
six to a dozen shoots; but a
patch ought not to be allowed to
get so large, except where the
borders are very wide.

Shrubberies and Lawns.—Mow

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR

MAY. aP1

not less than once a week if it can| filled in the vacant places with

be done, but if it goes more than

a fortnight this month the grass |

will be spoiled for the year. Water
Jate-planted shrubs.

Transplanting all the annuals,
potting of such as are to be
bloomed in pots, filling up the

beds and clumps with Hydrangeas, |

scarlet Geraniums, Fuchsias, Ver-

benas, Petunias, Calceolarias, and |

other subjects which have been
protected all the winter, may be
set about after the fifteenth of the
month without fear of having them
damaged by frosts.

Tulips are now coming into
flower. Keep the sun from once
shining on them after they show
colour. Make memorandums in
your book on the state of your
blooms, especially pointing out
any that are to be changed the
next planting, and all such as are
in their wrong places. If the
weather be exceedingly sultry water
the paths in the Tulip house, but
not the soil in which the Tulips
are planted. They do not require
wet, but the paths well watered.
Keep the canvas house cool, and
when the weather shall prove very
melting syringing the canvas all
ever so as to still more cool the
place will be beneficial; but the
under cloth stretched from end to
end must be put up before you
sprinkle the roof, or the water
would splash through the cloth

into the flowers, and completely |

spoil the bloom. Look over all

your seedlings as they flower, that

you may throw away at once all
those which prove worthless, and
so lessen the stock. Shade any
particular flowers that may be
about in the out-beds and seedling
beds.

The borders generally have to |

be kept clear from weeds, to be

seeds or plants ready to put out.
Stakes put to all sorts of plants
that are weakly in their stems, or
too tall to stand the winds. In
filling up the borders all the taller
subjects should be placed at the
back, and the lower ones towards
the front, as all borders should
form a kind of bank of flowers
when all are in flower.

Geometrical or Dutch Garden.
—One of the first things to con-
sider in Dutch gardens is perma-
nency of bloom. Onthis account
there are many kinds of dwarf
Roses that are excellent, but all
the beds should be uniform; that
is to say, the beds that are all of
one shape should be all of one
colour, or half of them at any rate.
Suppose, then, there are six round
beds on the same circle ; it would
be tolerable to have three scarlet
and three blue, they being alter-
nate, and so with all the rest. Of
the annuals to be employed, Nemo-
phila insignis and Convolvulus
minor would be splendid blues;
Zinnia coccinea and scarlet Ten-
week Stocks, good reds; Hrysi-
mum Perofskianum and Eschscholt-
zia crocea, good orange colours;
Candytuft, a good white. But the
objection to annuals is their short-
lived beauty. Verbenas of various
colours, and Roses, go a long way
towards making up beds that re-
tain their beauty all the summer
and a great part of the autumn.
All we want to impress on the
mind is the necessity of uniformity
in the plants employed. The Cu-
phea platyeentra is also a prize for
bedding out.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

This noble plant is now advane-
ing in growth, and approaching
the period of bloom. Syringing

Y¥

422

with a strong but fine stream,
through small holes, all that may
be attacked with the green fly,
and especially those on walls and
the fronts of houses, will be found
beneficial. Look over the grafted
and budded trees of last year, and
remove all growths of the stock,
whether suckers from the root, or
shoots from above and below the
graft or bud: the only exceptions
"are those of which the graft or
bud has failed, and in such cases
let the strongest shoot of the
stock alone grow to be budded
again. Roses in pots must be
examined to see if they have
enough room. Observe that the
moss is not removed from the
pots of seed not yet up, and that
the moss is damp and the soil
moist.

THE GREENHOUSE.

Azalea Indica should now be
kept in the shade, and if there be
no permanent shade to the green-
house a temporary one should be
placed in some portion of it. No
plant sooner yields to the influence
of the burning sun, nor exhibits
signs of distress so rapidly if
neglected. All the kinds are alike
in this respect; they should, there-
fore, be carefully watered, have
plenty of air, and be kept out of
the sun in the coolest part of the
greenhouse.

Botany Bay plants, by which we
mean Acacias, Hoveas, and all
hard-wooded plants of the same
nature, though from other locali-
ties, have bloomed, or are about
blooming. Such as have flowered
are beginning to make their
growth, and now is the time to
prune all such, before they advance
too far. Where the branches are
luxuriant and growing out of shape
they must be shortened. All that

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MAY.

are too long among the lateral
shoots must.be cut in, so as to
favour handsome growth, and in
pruning them we ought to con-
sider that the object of a little
height or size is nothing com-
pared with good form; hence, if
they are gawky and bare, we
should sacrifice a good deal of the
present size, that we may ulti-
mately improve the form of the
plant. We ought also to exa-
mine them before we leave them
to their growth, to see that they
have good drainage and pot room,
and if not, we ought to repot
them in pots a size larger. When
all this is done let them be
placed in the coolest and lightest
part of the greenhouse, and be
turned round every day, other-
wise they will grow one-sided.
Let them be freely watered. These
plants should always be grown in
peat mould two-thirds, and loam
from rotted turves one-third, and
without dung. Those plants which
have not bloomed must be well
supplied with water, as a plant
eoming into flower absorbs a good
deal. All growing plants require
plenty of light, plenty of air,
plenty of water; and if the sun be
very burning, which it frequently
is this month, let there be a shade
during two or three of the hottest
hours of the day.

Calceolarias. — These require a
good deal of water as they rise for
bloom, and to prevent their being
drawn up too much, so as to weaken
their stems, they must have plenty
of light and air. Observe, too,
that the drainage of all is clear,
which may be easily seen if you
examine before watering. If any
one is moist at that time, while the
others are dry, turn out the ball,
and put new crocks into the bot-
tom, removing all the old ones.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MAY.

323

Camellia Japonica.—These are | perfection, except seedlings, many

now making their growth, and
should be examined to see that
they are not rambling out of shape.
The pruning of the Camellia is a
subject on which few growers for
sale agree with us. They should,
however, be as carefully pruned as
a wall tree. Shoots coming in
places where they are not wanted
ought to be taken off; branches
that are too long should be cut
back. Regard should be had to
beauty, and not to size. The grower
for beauty does not care for wood
except where it is wanted, and
therefore the instant tle bloom is
gone he should cut the plant into
a form that will, with one year’s
wood on it, become handsome; and,
though he may lose half the plant
by the operation, he will be pleased
with the result, however great the
saerifice may be. They will grow
the better if placed near the light,
being shaded, while the young
wood is tender, during the hottest
hours of the day, if the sun be too
powerful; and they should not on
any account suffer a check while
growing. Many place them in the
stove or a warm greenhouse, but
they are infinitely better without
artificial heat. They should be
turned every two or three days to
prevent their growing one-sided.
Chinese Primroses.—We are not
sufficiently interested in the single
kinds to think them worth grow-
ing from seed; but there are some
worth perpetuating, such as the
double ones and remarkably large
single ones. Shake the earth all
out of the roots, separate the
hearts so as to get a good root
with each, and pot them in the
sized pot best adapted for their
roots, without regard to the head,
which will soon spread.
Cinerarias—These are now in

of which bloom later. They re-
quire plenty of air and water, and
their flowers may be shaded from
the hot snn. Seedlings in smaller
pots than they are to bloom in
should be shifted when the pots
are full of roots, and be well
watered. They will grow double
the size that they would acquire if
starved, and you can hardly judge
a flower that has been starved.
Climbing Plants.—The rapid
growth of climbers renders con-
stant attention necessary. The
principal object is to guide the
young shoots daily, and fasten
them in their places as they ad-
vance, for, if this be not done, the
leaves all turn according to the
position in which the growing
shoots hang or lay; and when, after
they have been neglected, you be-
gin to train them, the leaves are
twisted out of their places, and

the plant requires a long time to

recover a good appearance. The
necessity of constant watching will
be observed the very first time they
are neglected a few days in their
growing season. Those which are

ve

meant to cover any given space.

should be occasionally stopped
when more lateral branches are
required. |

Erica.— This beautiful family
should always occupy the coldest
place in the greenhouse or a cold
pit. All artificial heat is injurious.
Twenty - four hours’ neglect of
watering after they want it will
either quite kill or greatly damage
a plant, because the leaves of the
lower part would fall as if they
were deciduous, or whole limbs
would die back. Examine every
plant, therefore, daily, give plenty
of air, and carefully observe the
drainage: too much water would
be just as dangerous, just as mis-

324

chievous. The changing of pots
to larger sizes should take place
after bloom, and before the new
growth. The soil should be two-
thirds turfy peat, and the other
third of loam from rotted turves
(which is half vegetable manure),
or made up by maiden loam which
has no manure, and decomposed
horse or cowdung to make up for
the absence of it. The proper peat
earth is that which is very full
of sand. Too much attention
cannot be paid to the watering
and giving plenty of air. The
Heath luxuriates in a good warm
wind.

Fuchsias. — According to our
mode of culture these plants will
be now in full growth, requiring
only plenty of air, plenty of water,
‘and turning every day to make
the growth uniform all round.
Avoid all artificial heat, keep them
as cool as any part of the green-
house can be kept, and if the pots
are full of roots change them for
a size larger. If there be a dis-
position to make long shoots, stop
them by pinching off the ends;
butif you have neglected this till
they have gone too long, cut them
actually back a joint or two. Those
of pendulous habits, like the old
Globosa, should be stopped early,
until there are enough branches
to hang oyer all round. Pyramidal

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR MAY,

plants of more than a year old
should be checked wherever the
lateral branches get out of place.
Cuttings may be taken at any time
of the year, and seed may be sown
now in pans or pots, and placed in
the warmest part of the house till
they germinate. Seedlings that
have filled their pots with roots
may be placed in others of larger
size: the soil best adapted for
them is peat earth and loam from
rotten turves, half of each, with-
out manure.

Geraniums. — These are now
showing their blooms or bloom-
buds, and, as the flowers will easily
burn in the very hot bright sun,
shading is indispensable, but it
should be done only while the sun
shines. It should be so contrived
as to be easily removed and re-
placed. A shade on a roller, that
can be pulled down or up inside
the glass, without preventing the
glasses from being opened, is the
best, because the full air can be
given without difficulty. The Ge-
ranium is too often drawn up by
heat without light, whereas the
light without heat is every way
efficacious. They will require great
watchfulness as to supplying water,
and in killing the green fly by
fumigation the instant it appears.
They should be placed as near
the glass as possible.

325

JUNE.

——

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

Anemones, where the leaves have

taken up, dried, and stored like
Ranunculuses, except that, as the
tubers are larger and hold more
moisture, you will require a longer
time to dry them. Thosein bloom
may be sbaded, to prolong the
flowering.

Annual flowers that have been
sown in the border in patches re-
quire regulating; that is, they
want thinning out so as to leave
only three or four plants of some
large kinds, and half a dozen small
kinds in a patch, because, if they
are too thick, they injure each
other, and the plants grow strag-
gling and weak. Annuals that
require planting out should be
put out early this month if not
done last month; and in the mid-
dle or towards the end of the
month, as a succession to those
already in. Last month and this
may be greatly assimilated on
these matters, because by follow-
ing up the same operations the
bloom of annuals is greatly pro-
longed.

Auriculas, which are now enjoy-
ing all the weather, must be
looked to now and then, to see

that the drainage is quite clear,

for the soil will frequently wash
down and fill up the hole. They

‘must always be cleared imme-
turned a little yellow, may be |

diately. Pick off all yellow leaves,
earth up those which have offsets,
so that the base of the offset may
be in the ground or soil, as offsets
are much safer and make plants
sooner if they strike root before
they are taken off. Seedling Au-
riculas may be potted off singly in
small pots as soon as they have six
good leaves; but they are better
in frames than altogether exposed
at first, because their moisture
can be better regulated, and their
shading can be adapted to their
state of strength. Smaller seed-
lings may be pricked out from the
seed-pans, and put six or more
in a pot of the smallest size, or
in a pan an inch apart all over;
but those which touch the edge
of a pot always advance faster
than those in the middle, so that
most prefer to put only as many
as can be put round the edge.
Watch the seed-pods of all that
are being grown for seed: they
must be gathered before they open,
or the seed will be lost.

Balsams require the same treat-
ment as before; but as they grow
up tall they must be sunk lower in
the bed. If properly provided
for they should go into a warm
pit, where they can have plenty of
light and heat, and be easily got

326 CALENDAR

at to shift from one sized pot to| as you can,

OF OPERATIONS FOR JUNE.

If you persevere in

another. Balsams may be planted | this matter you will have cleared
out in the common borders: they them by the time that other peo-
look best put out three in a ple begin to catch them; for,

patch, because, as they are of
different colours, they form a bet-
ter contrast. They will be a good
succession to any planted out
before; or, if they have been ad-
vanced much in pots, they will
very likely flower before them,
but at any rate will form two
seasons.

Cockscombs.—Shift from small

pots to larger ones every time the.

smaller ones fill with roots, and
keep up the heat of the hotbed
by means of fresh linings, keeping
the soil moist and the plants near
the glass, for they will depend
more upon the continuance of
heat and proper moisture for their

beauty and fine growth than any |

one imagines, unless he has grown
them.

Cuttings—Before any of the
plants intended for bedding out
are planted all the long gawky
shoots and all spare pieces should
be taken off; first, that the plants
put out should be pretty uniform ;
secondly, that the cuttings may be
struck for late planting. At this
time of year they may be put in

the common border in the shade, |
under a hand-glass, and they will
strike freely. All rooted cuttings |
in pans or pots should be potted |

off into single pots.
Dahlias.—The further planting

of Dahlias should be completed |
this month. Many plant the mid-.

dle of May, the first week in June,
and the last week: that is for the
sake of having three distinct sea-

sons to calculate on for the exhi-|
month the best Tulip-bed may

bitions. Fasten them rather loosely

to the stakes, and above all things |
_decay: as soon as the top of the

examine frequently the tops for

|

Strange as it may seem, the
growers generally do not trouble
their heads about earwigs until
they have had all the season to
breed in, and the flowers are about
to appear. Hardly any amount of
assiduity is equal to their destruc-
tion, unless begun from the in-
stant they are planted out. Be
in no hurry to commence water-
ing the Dahlias. When they are
planted soak the whole ground
well, but let them seek their own
by going down after it before you
water again, unless the soil is very
light and not very rich, in which
case you must supply water as a
substitute — but a poor one — for
the nourishment the ground ought
to contain in itself. They will, in
all probability, be attacked by the
green fly, and perhaps by a little
green caterpillar or grub. For the
first syringe pretty sharply with
a fine rose, but considerable force,
and thus wash them off; but if
this does not clear them in one or
two syringings, let it be done
with tobacco water one day, and
clear water afterwards. For the
grub there is no remedy but ex-
amining the plants and picking
them off.

Hyacinths, Tulips, and other
bulbs which have done flowering,
and the foliage of which has begun
to turn yellow and decay, should
be taken up, and, after drying in
the shade, cleared of their roots
and leaves, and packed away where
the air can get at them, but no
sun nor damp. At the end of the

have begun to show symptoms of

earwigs, and destroy them as fast | stem shrivels they may be taken

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JUNE.

up, and the stems cut off, but not
cleared of their mould. They may
be laid in their boxes dirty as they
are, to be cleaned after they have
thoroughly dried in the shade.
Those in the out-beds may also be
taken up as soon as their stems
turn yellow at top; but all those
which have seed-pods will not
have begun to decay, and when
seed is wanted they must be left
until the pods swell the full size,
and begin to turn brown.
Pansies—Shade the individual

blooms that are wanted from the
heat of the sun, but the bed must.
not be confined, for it would,
draw the plants; or, if the bed
must be shaded, let it be by a side
wall of matting, and not a com-
plete cover. Take off the small
side-shoots from all the plants
you wish to propagate, and con-
stantly set them to strike. New.
beds ought to be made two or three |
times a year, besides the origi-|
nal autumn-made ones. The side-
shoots strike rapidly under a
hand-glass even in the common
border, and a trifle of bottom.
heat will hasten the striking.
You may make another bed of
struck cuttings any time this.
month, and those plants that)
have bloomed and declined may
be cut down to break out anew,
or be pulled to pieces to propagate
generally.

Perennials and Biennials.—If
they are large enough to plant out
towards the end of the month, let
them be turned out about as dis-
tant from each other as the plants
occupy when grown. Canterbury
Bells, Wallflowers, Sweetwilliams,
Columbines, Lupines, and such-
like, may be nine inches; Poly-
_ anthuses and such-like close-grow-

ing subjects may be six inches.
Let them be in beds about four

B27

feet wide, and alleys between of
one foot.

Picotees and Carnations require
the greatest attention, not less to
their general health than their
freedom from vermin. If there be
the least symptoms of the green
fly they should be fumigated, if
you have a room to shut them in;
and if not, they should be washed
and syringed, first with tobacco
water and next with clear water;
for, if once the green fly prevails,
the plants will be weakened and
the bloom greatly impaired. As
their stems rise they should be
tied to the stakes, but sufficiently

loose to allow them to grow. They

will frequently lengthen so much
that, if the tie stops them above,
the stem will grow out and break:
the early ties ought to slip up

the stakes readily, as the stems

lengihen. Of course, if there be
more than one stem to a plant, the
weaker is to be removed. Only
one stem should be left, and not
more than two or three buds on
the stem, uniess it be on some of
the very large and full kinds,
which would grow too strong if
limited in number.

Pinks are now rapidly sending
up their bloom-stems, and althou-h
many persons will leave on more
than one stem to a plant, we
cannot recommend it. There are
some large Pinks that will be
more tractable if they are allowed
to retain all their buds, because
their great fault is being too
double and too large; but these
are the exceptions, and are soon
found out. In a general way, re-
duce the buds to two or three.
The tying of the buds rouni the
middle with a bit of bass matting
must be managed when the bud
has grown as large as it will swell
before bursting, because the con-

328

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JUNE.

finement then damages nothing: | flowers or making them weakly.

the calyx is to be torn down to
the tie all round the bud at
each division. In blooming the
Pink the guard-leaves should be
guided down to their places—not
pulled out, but merely drawn
down so as to form a dish, as it
were, for the other petals. They
must be handled very lightly, for
they easily bruise ; and when once
damaged, however slightly, they
do not recover again. Many flo-
rists use a piece of round card,
which they put on, and bring up
to the under part of the flower, to
keep up the guard or under petals,
and they put a glass over the
flower, and a shade on the glass,
in the heat of the summer days,
for it is necessary to keep out the
heat from the flower. The grass
at the bottom of the Pink may be
thinned off, and the pieces struck,
or piped, as it is called ; they are
to be cut up to a joint, the bottom
leaves taken away full an inch
high up the stem; the leaves are
not to be shortened. Now make
up a bed of rich light soil, and
saturate it with water, putting the
pipings in within an inch of each
other, in a square place that a
hand-glass will just cover, and
having given a little water to
settle the earth about the stems,
cover them up: they will require
no other attendance till they
strike, unless it be a little water
if the earth gets too dry.
Ranunculuses for exhibition
must now be shaded and well
watered; but to be effective the
shading should be at a distance.
Upright poles or stakes, and a mat
wall so placed as to shade the
flowers effectually, all but an hour
in the morning, and as much
evening sun, is the best way of

The colours are injured by cover-
ing. They want the light and air
as free as they can be given with-
out sun. The autumn-planted
Ranunculuses, which have begun
to turn yellow, should be taken
up. They frequently suffer from
vermin when left in the ground
too long. We have no business
to wait till the foliage decays;
when it begins to turn yellow the
plant has done all it can, and the
sooner the tubers are up and
dried in the shade the better.
They should be placed to dry
under cover, where there is plenty
of air, but no sun, and when
thoroughly dry put away in a
very dry place, where they can be
easily examined now and then, to
see that they do not acquire any
damp. .

Sced-pods.—If these are to be
saved, let them be watched and
gathered as they approach the
ripening season; but if seed be
not wanted every decaying flower
should be removed before the seed-
pods swell, for nothing so com-
pletely destroys the flowers of any-
thing as allowing the pods of seed
to swell instead of removing them.
Let one patch of Sweet Peas be
allowed to bloom, and not a flower
to be cut, and Jet another have
every flower cut off the instant it
begins to fade; and those which
are allowed to seed will be com-
pletely out of flower and full of
the seed-pods, while the other con-
tinues to grow and bloom for
weeks afterwards. It is the same
with all flowers.

Tender Plants.—Finish planting
out all the ordinary tender border
flowers, and also Geraniums, He-
liotropes, Verbenas, and Hydran-
geas. Balsams should be planted

doing it without drawing the|out three in a patch, within six

CALENDAR

inches of each other, in a sort of
triangle; they will grow into one
another, and, being different, have
a good effect. Geraniums should
be planted singly, turning the
balls out whole, and allowing room
to grow. The Geraniums planted
out in beds and clumps should
be a foot apart, for they will grow
close enough very soon. All this
planting should be done the first
week.

Watering is frequently neces-
sary this month, but it ought only
to be resorted to in the greatest
emergency. Unless things are per-
ceptibly suffering for want of it,
it ought not to be given: it is the
beginning of bad habits. Plants,
like people, may be spoiled: help
them, and they will not help them-
selves; teach them self-reliance,
and they make shift without assist-
ance. If we begin watering plants
the roots no longer go down after
moisture—they come up after it,
and we are obliged to continue it;
but if we are obliged to water, let
the whole space of the ground be
watered alike, the same as a heavy
shower of rain would do it. Com-
mon surface watering is worse
than none. The farce of sprink-
ling ground that it may look black
and wet for an hour is amusing
enough to those who know better;
but, as we have always said, a
thorough good watering once a
week is far better than the com-
mon sprinkling of the place once
a day.

Weeding.—Unless the greatest
activity is observed now in the
removal of weeds they will rapidly
Overrun the flowers, and seed be-
fore you are aware of it. Makea
rule of stirring the entire surface
of the borders in dry weather once
a week at the least; it is the only
_way to keep weeds effectually

OF OPERATIONS FOR JUNE.

329

under control. Weeds that grow
up in patches of seed should be
drawn out by the hand; but be-
fore that is attempted the ground
should be well soaked with water,
that they may not only draw easy,
but come out without draggifg
the plants with them. The beds
of seedling biennials must be care-
fully gone over, and should be
thinned a little as well as weeded.
For this purpose water them well
first; merely remove those which
are too thick to grow well enough
to plant out, for if they are too
thick in the seed-bed they be-
come lanky and weak, and there
is no making them into good
bush plants.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

Look over alithe Tree Roses, and
all others worked upon briers, and,
wherever the stock has begun to
shoot, rub off the buds and shoots,
that they may not rob the better
variety that is budded or grafted
upon them. Cut away all the
stock above the inserted buds.
If the bud has made a good shoot
pinch the end off, that the growth
may at once be thrown into lateral
shoots, instead of all going into a
branch that must be cut back to
two eyes next season. It is far bet-
ter to direct the strength into late-
ral branches that will at once form
a good head, because each of the
strongest of these branches, being
cut back at the pruning time, will
help to form a good head by send-
ing out two stronger shoots. Look
also to suckers that spread in the
ground, and if they throw up
strong shoots to injure the plant,
dig down to the part where these
suckers join the main root, and
eut them off there. If any of the
briers worked last year do not
grow well, or rather if the buds

330

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JUNE.

or grafts are not growing, let the | all, because you want some growth”
stock grow, that you may have the | to draw the sap.
branches, for the sake of budding |

them again in July.
shoots of the Rose, to see if there
be any grubs, for they must be
picked off; and if there be any
symptoms of the aphis or green
fly, syringe with tobacco water
first, and a few hours after with
clear water to wash off the tobacco.
‘he dwarf Roses growing on their
own roots, that is to say, those
which have not been worked, but
grown from layers or cuttings, are
equally susceptible of attack from
grub and fly, and must not be
neglected on any account. In the
beds and clumps of dwarf Roses
it may be necessary to stir the
earth between the plants, and to
peg down the branches, that they
may spread and cover the beds.
Buddiny.—Towards the end of
the month circumstances may
occur that make it desirable to
bud afew; for instance, you may
get afew buds that you might not
be able to get afterwards. In this
case select the strongest shoots on
the best stocks. Shave off the bud
and leaf, with a little thin slice of
the wood and bark, with a fine-
pointed knife; lift out the woody
part of the slice, which will leave
the bark only on the buds; then
make a slit an inch long in the
bark of the stock, as close to the
stem of the stock as you can well
get at it, and then a cross slit half
way, so that with the thin handle
of the budding-knife, or a thin
piece of wood, you can lift the bark
by tucking it under, so as to tuck
the piece of bark which has the
bud on it under the bark of the
stock, and tie it there with a piece

it may remain, Cut away some of
the branch of the stock, but not

Climbing Roses.—It will be ne-

Examine the | cessary to pay the same attention

to these in respect to vermin; but
the syringe must be the principal
dependence for eradicating them,
and from day to day it may be
desirable to wash them with con-
siderable force. As the fly and
grub are washed to the ground it
will be requisite to rake the sur-
face, and clear them away, that
they may not again climb the
plants. If the shoots come too
thick, or the plants are making
fresh growth from the bottom, the
most vigorous shoots must be re-
moved, that the strength may go
into the established plant, unless
it happen, as it will sometimes,
that the gid plant is unhealthy,
in which case new and vigorous
shoots from the bottom may be
encouraged, and parts of the old
plant cut away to make room for
them.

Seedling Roses must be weeded
and kept clean, especially the
smaller plants, which would soon
be overrun and damaged, if not
destroyed. The pans of seedlings
coming forward, but small, must
be also kept clean; and if they are
too thick they may be carefully
thinned, and the plants withdrawn
may be pricked out into other
pans or pots, two inches apart;
but unless these be carefully drawn
without injuring the roots they
will not recover the change. They
must be placed in the shade ina
cold frame, or out of doors.

Stocks for Budding. — These
must be looked over, and all but
the two or three strong shoots

‘near the top continually rubbed
of worsted or bass matting, where |

off as they appear, because the
more strength there is thrown
into the shoots that are to be

CALENDAR

OF OPERATIONS FOR JUNE.

351

worked the easier they will be| treatment to the Calceolaria, in

worked,

THE GREENHOUSE.

Azalea Indica and Camellias.—
The plants of Camellia and Aza-
lea are making great advances.
If all these plants could be placed
under canvas, so much the better;
but deep cold pits, which can be
covered over and shaded with mats,
would do just as well. They must
not have the burning sun, for it
would damage the young shoots
and curl their leaves, spoiling
them for a season altogether. Give
plenty of air all the day through ;
plants can hardly have too much.
The plants still in bloom or com-
ing into flower will now have more
room, and should be placed a
good distance apart.

Botany Bay Plants—-Many of
what are called the hard-wooded
plants, such as Acacias, Hoveas,
Heaths, Chorozemas, Epacrises,
and Botany Bay plants generally,
may be now declining flower. Put
them out in a shady border, where
they are sheltered from the high
winds and free from drippings of
trees, to make their new growth;
but, as before, see whether the
shape of the plant can be improved
by cutting in.

Calceolarias. — The plants in
flower must be kept well watered
and shaded. Those going out of
bloom should have the decaying
flower-stalks cut off, and should
be set out of doors in a cool,
airy, but not too shady situation,
where they will gradually renew
their growth previously to propa-
gation. Any later plants coming
forward for bloom must not, on
any account, have any check for
want of water.

Cinerarias—As these plants go
out of flower they require similar

order to induce the old stools to
throw out shoots for the purpose
of propagation. As soon as any
suckers or shoots from the base
of the plant are produced, let a
portion of them be divided for a
supply of the earliest-flowering
plants. They generally divide
readily with roots attached. The
young plants should be grown on
in cool frames during the summer,
so that they may be shaded in hot
parching weather.

It is a good plan to plant out
some of the old plants in rich soil,
to furnish a quantity of suckers
for propagation.

Cleanliness and Order.— Pick
off from the plants all dead leaves,
and keep the house clean. On
no account allow dead leaves to
lie about on shelves or in pits;
they engender damps, which are
fatal to plants in the vicinity. Pits
should be kept especially clean
and dry. It is of the greatest
benefit to plants to keep shelves
and tables clean; they should be
frequently washed, and wiped dry
afterwards. It dislodges vermin,
and the eggs of vermin.

Climbing Plants.—At this sea-
son the growth of climbers is very
rapid, and, unless it is closely
attended to, soon gets into con-
fusion. The young shocts should
therefore be arranged on the trel-
lises or supports before they are
too far advanced.

Cuttings under glasses must never
be allowed to get dry; but, on the
other hand, the glasses ought to be
wiped daily quite dry, or the cut-
tings are apt to damp off and rot.
Many plants root easier when
the cuttings are struck in sand,
with the bottoms just touching the
ordinary soil, but not entering into
it. Hundreds of plants do not re-

332

quire it, hut it certainly facilitates |
the striking of everything, whether
it be required or not: every time |
it is watered the sand washes down
close to the stems.

Ericas.—The Ericas coming |
into flower ought not to have the.
burning sun on them, and being |
in peat, which is little more than a
vehicle for supplying water to the |
roots, and affords little nourish. |
ment of itself, they ought to be
examined twice a day, to see that
they are sufficiently moist.

Foreign Seeds. —Sow seeds of
foreign plants the instant you get
them, without considering the sea-
son, because many seeds will germ-
inate at the time you get them
that would be quite perished if
you waited for a proper season,
and all seeds grow best while
new.

Fuchsias.—Fuchsias must be
regulated as to form as they ad-
vance, and those wanted to be
bushy must have their shoots
stopped by pinching the ends out.

Geraniums.—The Geraniums in
the greenhouse should be shaded,
for the flowers are soon gone if
they have all the sun. Seedling
Geraniums may be pricked out
from the seed-pans to small pots,
three or four in a pot, planted
round the edges only. Seedlings
in pots must be shifted as fast as
they fill the old pots with roots.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JUNE.

Insects.—Plants should be fre-
quently examined, to see if there
be bugs or scale about them; they
soon become unhealthy unless they
are instantly cleaned. Wash with
soap and water, and afterwards
with clean water.

Seedling Hard-wooded Plants.—
Seedling greenhouse plants should
be kept clear of weeds, and, as they
get large enough to be handled,
well pricked out in pots as Gera-
niums.

Specimen Plants.—Young speci-
mens of greenhouse plants must
be stopped or otherwise, as they
are required dwarf or pyramidal.

Syringing occasionally does most
plants good, but it should be done
in the morning, that it may not
create a general damp throughout
the house. All the heat of the
day the house should be open as
much as possible; opening doors
at each end creates a draught
which is not healthy; but to open
all the top and front windows is
advisable at all timesin hot weather.

Watering.—Watering is now a
complete business: the plants must
not all undergo the operation.
whether they require it or not,
but must be regularly examined.
Some will be found dry and want-
ing moisture; others will be found
moist enough, and ought not to
have more till they are dry by
comparison.

333

JULY.

———

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE:

Anemones as they die off should

be taken up, and their tubers |

dried in the shade, where there is
free access of air and light, and
when thoroughly dry be packed
up in thin bags aud boxes. Gauze
or open canvas bags are always
better than paper.

Antirrhinums require
sometimes.
lings as they come into flower,
and select such as have good
properties.

Annuals. — Late ones may be
planted out at the beginning of
the month. Weed those in beds
and clumps, and draw some out if
they are too thick. Sweet Peas
must have good supports.

support

the weeds.
mean of the ordinary kind—should
be placed in the open air, rather
shaded, and be copiously watered.

Auriculag. — These must be
shaded from the heat of the sun,
if they are not already placed in
the shade. Examine whether any
of the draining is stopped, and
remedy it if it be so. Take off
dead and yellow leaves, and if
they are too wet let them be oc-
casionally covered against rain.
Prick out any seedlings that may
be large enough round the edges
of pots, an inch apart,

Look over the seed- |

Stir |
the earth of the borders to clear |
Annuals in pots—we |

Balsams.—Continue shifting the
pots as they fill with roots, and
keep them near the glass, with
a good share of air during the
heat of the day. Put out in the
borders ali that you do not mean
to bloom in pots.

Biennials may be planted out in
beds if not done before, and, where
the places are at liberty, any of
them may be planted at once
where they are to bloom.

Bulbs of whatever sort that are
left in the ground, and require
taking up, should be attended to
the first week. It often happens
that Tulips are not ready till this
month, or that the weather has
not been favourable for the job;
but no time must now be lost.

Campanula.—The variety com-
monly known as the Chimney
Campanula is now growing fast
in the blooming-pot. Fasten the
rising stems to proper supports ;
as they advance water well, and
keep the pots clear of weeds.

Carnations and Picotees.—These
must be disbudded. Leave no
more than two or three buds on
each stem, and let these be the
buds nearest the season you want.
If the Carnations and Picotees are
too forward we are glad to get
rid of even the crown bloom-bud ;
but it ought not to be done lightly,

334

because in most cases it is the!
finest, though, if taken off before |
it begins to swell, the second
takes its place. Tie the stems
carefully to the stakes; as they
grow up they must be able to
push the tie up with them, or
they might damage. See that no
- vermin infest them, and be liberal
of the water. When the pods
have ‘swelled full tie a piece of
matting round the middle, and, as
soon as it will allow of the opera-
tion, tear down the green covering
or calyx all round to the band;
the green will divide in five, and
easily come down; this enables
the petals to open all round alike,
whereas, if the green were not
torn down in all five divisions,
they would have burst on one side
first, and nothing afterwards could
make it even. Put a round card
on the pod half way up it close to
the tie, and the petals may be
placed in their proper situations :
the large - formed petals first
brought down to form a circular
dish, as it were; those of the next
size may be brought down to cover
the places where the others lap
over; and a third row, rather
smaller, may be set again upon
these: whatever else is left may
form a crown, which, with the
horned pistil, is a good finish. To
get the card on, a slit is made
from the side to the hole in the
centre.

Chrysanthemums. — Strike the
last tops to form dwarf plants. A
little bottom heat would be desir-
able, as they do not strike so free
this month as last, or the month
before; but, as they have grown
near their full length, they have
not much further to grow without
flowering. As soon as they are
struck pot them in forty eight
sized pots.

CALENDAR OF

OPERATIONS FOR JULY.

Climbing plants, such as Honey-
suckle, Clematis, and others re-
quiring support, should be often
looked at, and their new growth
that is loose properly fastened as
the. shoots advance. Climbing
Roses want constant watching.

Cockscombs. — Give plenty of
nourishment and heat, repot as
soon as the roots reach the side,
give occasionally liquid manure
when the pots are getting pretty
full of roots, keep the heat up
to sixty-five or seventy, and keep
them close to the glass.

Dahlias. — These are getting
rapidly forward, requiring one
man’s time to fasten out the
branches, clear them of useless
growth, pull off all their imperfect
buds, catch the earwigs, and give
water, although, as before, we
would rather they had one good
watering all over the ground once
a week than a moderate or partial
one once a day; besides, when
the waterings are further apart,
there is the better chance of a
shower of rain relieving us from
the trouble. As the blooms come
out you have to make up your
mind whether you will grow them
naturally or artificially, that is,
whether you will cover them up
or let them take their chance. If
you intend to pot them, get square
boards as large as will hold a
thirty-two sized flower-pot; let
there be holes at the corners, or
at two corners, to hold legs that
shall support them the height of a
flower, whether it be at the bottom
or half way up. A slit sawn in
this board so as to reach the
centre enables you to pass the
stem of a bud to the centre of the
board, and this slit may be stuffed
full of moss or cotton, by which
the stem is kept in its place, and
the erack will let nothing through.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR

This is supported by its feet
level, and the right height, by
thrusting the sticks more or less
into the ground, or cutting them
to a proper length, the feet are
pointed to go into the two holes.
It then forms a level table with
the bud through the centre, and
when a flower-pot is over it, with
the hole stopped, it keeps out the
vermin. If, however, your Dahlias
are to ornament the garden, and
exhibiting is a second considera-
tion, leave the apparatus for cover-
ing alone, and trust to fortune for
fine blooms. If you have any
that are scarce or dear, take off
young cuttings, and strike them in
strong bottom heat.

Evergreens and ornamental trees
and shrubs are in full growth.
Look well to the growing branches,
and see that they are not over-
growing themselves and getting
the plant out of shape; check any
that are growing out of the way;
stir the earth on the surface of the
beds. Water the American plants
copiously from the moment they
are beginning to grow; they are
frequently unable to complete their
growth for want of ample refresh-
ment. The Rbhododendrons, Kal-
mias, Andromedas, Arbutuses,
Magnolias, and such-like shrubs,
must -be watered in dry weather
the first season they are planted.

Gladiolus.—Fasten the stems to
appropriate supporters, and give
them an abundance of water.

Hollyhocks.—Look well to the
seedlings, and mark any that are
better than we have already got.
but throw away all secondary
things. Nothing that is perennial
should be tolerated as novelties
unless they have real merit about
them. The flowers should be very
double, the petals very thick, the
colour very new, and the spike

335

very compact, to justify our keep-
ing one to propagate; and these
novelties of merit are not common,

Trises.— The numerous Irises
that bloom from early in the
spring till late in the summer
should be regularly noticed, and
especialiy the seedling English
Iris, which now comprises’ so
many very splendid varieties; and
such as are worth cultivation
should be taken care of, and their
principal features noticed, or they
should be numbered, and entries
of their peculiarities made in a
book.

Lily.—The large white, orange,
and scarlet Lilies in the borders
should be supported by stakes.
The Japan Lilies in pots should be
kept in the shade, for their deli-
eate blooms would soon suffer
under a hot sun. The half-hardy
Lilies of all kinds form beautiful
objects in collection; they require
a good deal of water while in pots.

Lupinus polyphyllus and other per-
ennial Lupines.—Seedlings should
be planted out in nursery-beds, or
where they are to stand for bloom,
if not done before. In either case
they should be well watered, and, if
the weather be very hot, shaded
also; but if they be taken up care-
fully after watering the seed-bed,
and planted out after the sun is
down a little low, they will suffer
nothing.

Mimulus seedlings must be kept
clear of weeds. If you have any
worth propagating you may increase
them as fast as Verbenas; and
planted all about the borders they
are most showy and dwarf, and
from a pinch of seed you will have
a hundred different varieties.

Peony.—Most of these plants
have lost their bloom, but it is
not well to part them until the
end of autumn, when their growth

JULY.

5336

is done, although some do it when
their bloom is done.

Pansy. — Continue to strike
side-shoots and make new beds.
Water well in dry weather, shade
the individual blooms required to
be preserved, stir between young
plants. Plant out seedlings, and
sow seed as fast as it ripens; but
if yon have any regard for the
quality of your seedlings, mark the
best blooms only to save seed
from, and sow as soon as you pick
it. You can hardly have it at a
wrong season, because they will
stand the winter, and it is a matter
of total indifference whether they
flower in spring, Midsummer, or
Michaelmas. There is no time
of the year in which you may
not strike the side -shoots of
Pansies, and they make the best
plants.

Paths.—The principal enemies
to paths are worms and weeds,
and they must not be allowed to
get ahead, or they will be very
troublesome. The worm casts
look ugly, and when swept off you
are just as sure to find as many
the next morning. Lime water
makes the path white for a while
after drying, but it is the best
thing you can use. Fiil a good
watering-pot, and with a rose
water among the casts; for the
holes being open, and the worms
not far below the first thing in the
morning, it generally settles all it
reaches. The weeds must be hoed
up or pulled up; for, if the old
remedy of salt and water be
applied, it runs down to the side
of the path, and kills grass or Box
at once if it be there.

Lawns.—Mow once a fortnight,
and sweep off the grass directly,
for if it lays an hour or two in hot
weather it turns the grass under
it yellow. Fork up the earth that

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JULY

is open round the specimens, and
keep them clear of weeds.

Petunias—These may be still
planted out; they help to fill the
borders with flowers. Those first
planted out want cutting back or
removing; the young ones will
very soon flower. Cuttings may
be struck under a hand-glass in
the border, though heat at bottom
rather hastens the striking; but
the present planting out will be
sufficient for the season. Seed-
lings may be planted out in beds,
that they may be the more easily
managed and marked when ex-
amined.

Phlox Drummondi, as well as
the perennials, may be shifted from
small pots to larger, and all that
are not required in pots may be
turned out in the borders. Phlox
Drummondi makes an. interesting
plant well grown, and comes
many different colours. Side cut-
tings, when young and struck, may
be kept through the winter, and
thus the annual rendered almost a
perennial.

Pinks.—The pipings that have
rooted may be planted out in
nursery-beds as near as_ three
inches in the row, and six inches
from row to row; but when they
have grown strong enough they
must be removed to the beds they
are to bloom in; at least, all the
beds you care to grow well and
in good colour must be made up
and planted in August or Sep-
tember for choice, though many
delay until it is too late to get
bloom of any sort.

Polyanthuses.—If these are not
already parted let it be delayed
no longer. They should have
been parted by the middle of last
month, but they may yet make
good plants in good ground, with
the help of agood autumn. Seed-

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JULY.

lings not planted out should be
got out directly. Primroses should
be served the same if not done
before, but there is yet time to
recover a good plant. We men-
tioned this and the Polyanthus in
May.

Ranunculuses. — Shade the re-
maining flowers, and water: still
keep them clear of weeds. If the
leaves turn yellowish by the end
of the month, take them up; put
them in the shade to dry; when
dry clean them, and put them by
in gauze or very light canvas
bags. Keep all the sorts separately
by name or number, and see that
none become mixed, for the value
is almost gone without the name
is preserved.

Rhododendrons must be well
watered. Seedlings may be planted
out. Beds of small plants should
be watered in dry weather, and all
plants in pots should be in the
shade, and their moisture regu-
larly attended to.

Tulips may not haye been taken
up the first week, and if so, lose
no time. When they are up, level
the bed, and bring the Carnations
and Picotees under the canvas.
They may either oceupy the space
of the bed, if raised above the
path, or, if the bed be even with
the ground, they may be placed ail
round, By the end of the month
they will be in full flower, and
make a noble appearance.

Geometrical Flower Gardens,
Beds, &c. — The most effective
objects in these beds are the Ver-
benas or the dwarf scarlet Gera-
niums, Petunias, and some of the
showy annuals. Those beds which
have had Stocks that are now
going off, or may go off, should be
planted with other subjects be-
tween, such as China Asters,
French Marigolds, or any other

|

oor

oof

annual that has been taken cave
of in pots, and that will turn out
well—Phlox Drummondi and Jate-
sown Nemophila, Mimulus, and
any other dwarf thing that is
forward, planted between anything
that has not quite finished flower-
ing, or by removing what is already
there, planted to take their place.
The paths will require weeding
frequently, and the Box edging
attended to.

Seeds of hardy things cannot be
sown too soon after they are ripe.
Nothing exhibits more healthy
growth than a self-sown seedling ;
aud if it be so, how can we do
better than sow directly the seed
is ripe and gathered ?

In planting out seedlings of any
kind choose a dull day if you can,
and have the beds not more than
four feet wide, that you may reach
the middle without putting your
foot on it. When they are very
small have half an inch of sifted
stuff on the top, otherwise many
of them will perish, because the
roughness of the soil may prevent
the roots from being pressed solid.
When they have got hold well,
and rooted down into the coarser
stuff, you may stir the soil and
mix the fine with the coarse by
forking it, because fine stuff rnns
too closé together when the rain
comes plentifully, and this is never
favourable to plants. If you can-
not get dull weather, plant when
the sun has gone Jow. Water
well, and shade in the heat of the
day until the plants lay fairly hold
of the ground.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

This is now in full beauty. All
the sorts of Roses of any conse-
quence are now in flower. Take
especial care that none of the
stakes get loose, and leave ihe

= Z

3838 CALENDAR OF
tree to bend to the winds. Now
go to budding in good earnest.
Take off the shoots from the Roses
you want to propagate, tie them
in bundles with their names to
them, cut back the shoots of the
stocks to three or four joints, or
so short as will prevent the briers
from being inconvenient, and in-
sert the buds close to the heel of
the shoot and the main stem on
the upper part of the shoot. The
piece of thin wood a full half-inch
long is to be shaved off the Rose
branch with a very sharp knife,
inserted a full quarter of an inch
below the leaf, and brought out
as much aboveit. The small piece
of wood that will come out in the
bark must be raised up at one
end with the point of the knife,
and drawn out, so as to leave the
bark only with the leaf and the
bud at its base on it. Now eut
a slit three quarters of an inch
Jong in the bark of the stock, and
a cut acr osit half way to make
a cross section of this slit; lift the
bark with the thin end of the bud-
ding knife or a thin piece of hard
wood, tuck in the bark so that
the leaf shall be at where the cut
crosses, the bark of the stock lap-
ping over the bark of the bud,
bind it firmly but not too tightly,
and itis done. By keeping three
or four joints of the stock the
sap is drawn past the bud, whic!
soon unites. Look well to all
Roses that are worked, and see
that all growths from their stocks
are destroyed. Rub off all buds
and cut off shoots, and grub up
suckers from the roots, for they
all rob the Rose itself of nourish-
ment, and if they once got fairly
ahead would destroy the worked
part altogether. Roses in pots

must be shifted if they have filled |

the pots with roots. Keep seed-

OPERATIONS FOR

JULY.

ling Roses properly shifted if in
pots, and well weeded and watered
if planted out. Any seedlings
that indicate by their foliage that
they are novel may be deprived of
a bud or two to put into strong
stocks, for they will thereby be
hastened into bloom by the vigour
of the stock much sooner than
they would bloom if left to thein-
selves. Continue to remove all
decaying flowers, otherwise they
would seed perhaps, and certainly
look untidy: removing the seed-
pods prolongs the bloom. Let
a common China Rose be left to
itself, and in a few weeks the hips
are seen swelling out all over the
tree, and the bloom will have dis-
appeared; for, as they constantly
appear while the new shoots are
continued, so they are completely
suspended, as it were, when the
swelling of the seed-pods arrests
the growth. Let another in the
same position be deprived of the
bloom-stems as fast as the flowers
decay, and the growth and bloom
will be found continuous.

THE GREENHOUSE.

Azalea Indica, having passed
their flowering, will be making
their growth, which should be in
the greenhouse, with plenty of
air and water. Take out any mis-
shapen branch, and stop any very
ugly shoots; and if the pots be
very full of roots shift the plants
to larger pots with great care,
and see that the new soil is solid
between the old ball of earth and
the pot. On this account very
small shifts are objectionable.
There ought to be sufficient differ-
ence in the size to allow of the
earth going down well, and it may
be pressed with the finger, or a
piece of wood small enough to be
clear of the fibres when pressed

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JULY.

down against the side of the pot.
Struck cuttings may be potted off,
small plants shifted to larger pots,

and other cuttings may be struck |
as soon as the growth is complete. |

Cuttings of the last season’s wood
will always strike freely.

Calceolarias in flower must be
shaded to prolong their bloom.
Seed may be sown in pans of rich
light soil, if not done before.

The Camellias, though removed
from the greenhouse to a shady
part of the garden, must not be
neglected. While their growth
continues they require to be
watered ; but as soon as theirshoots
are completed, which may be known
by the buds at the end forming,
they must have no more water than
will just keep them from flagging,
and have no sun at all. It is one
of the best possible contrivances to
have a canvas roof over them, to
keep away both wet and sun; ‘but
you must then attend to the giving
of necessary moisture.

Climbing plants must be at-
tended to every two or three
days, that the growing shoots
may be trained to their proper
places.

Hard-wooded plants generally
are making rapid progress in com-
pleting their season’s growth, and
are best as much in the shade as
may be. Under a canvas roof is
better than in the greenhouse,
but wherever they are, they must
be attended to in the watering.

Ericas require all the air they
can have, plenty of light, and
great attention should be paid to
them twice a day to see that they
get not too dry. Water them
effectually when they are to be
watered. Nothing is worse than
to wet the soil a little way down,
and not all through.

Fuschias must be shaded, but it.

339

should be with thin calico, or
something that will not take away
the light, and they should have
abundance of air.

Geraniums out of bloom may be
cut down to rather stumpy skele-
tons, and the cuttings may be put
in under a hand-glass in the com-
mon border. Shaded merely from
the heat of the sun, and well
watered, they will strike soon.
The early plants may be shifted,
the earth shook out of their roots,
and in repotting use loam from
rotted turves two-thirds, peat one-
third, and stand them in the open
ground on a hard bottom, but
where they may have all the sun,
When you cut them back remove
the weakly shoots altogether, and
only leave short limbs of those you
do, in such positions as to form a
good foundation of a handsome-
headed plant.

Greenhouse Rhododendrens which
have made their fresh growth
should be placed out of doors in
the shade, where they have a hard
impervious bottom to stand on,
and worms cannot work through
into their pots. Those which have
not made their growth complete
should have abundance of water,
air, and light, but not the heat
of the sun at mid-day.

Pruning of Flowering Plants.—
When a plaut is pruned into some
sort of form you may calculate to
a nicety how much growth it will
make in a season, and if you can
keep it in good health the less it
grows the better. ‘the principal
thing is to form the tree while
young, checking its exuberance
where it is growing too fast, and
encouraging the shoots that are
in aright direction; but the time
to prune a plant into form is just
before it legins to make its sea-
son's growth, at wliich period

340

many plants will bear cutting
back to the joint we wish to start,
and thereby regulating as near as
possible the form for the next
season. The greatest error com-
mitted in the growth of plants is
exciting them too much, and not
cutting them back enough.

General Remarks.—The _green-
house should be kept very clean—
all the shelves free from dead
leaves and fallen blooms. An
occasional washing of the shelves
is desirable, for if these, and the
corners in particular of shelves
and ledges, be left unwashed long
together, they become the recep-
tacle of all kinds of vermin and
their eggs. The floor should be
kept well brushed out, and if in
consequence of cloudy wet weather
for some time the house gets
damp, light a fire and open the
house a little, that the plants that
remain in may have plenty of air,
while the temperature is raised to
dry it. Shift such plants as have
filled their pots with roots to pots
a good size larger.

We have noticed at many places
that the remedies for the destruc-
tion of vermin, or the prevention
of their attacks, and, indeed, for
many other things recommended
by gardeners, are pretended to be
tried, and have been said to fail,
when it has been entirely the fault

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR JULY.

of the experimentalist. In oné
case they obtain the wrong mate-
rial, in other cases they use a pro-
posed mixture too strong, and
sometimes tley omit some article
or some precaution which they
choose to think immaterial, when
it is of the highest importance.
Occasionally instructions are too
indefinite, as where you are in-
structed to take a pinch of this, a
handful of that, or a pennyworth
of the other. In one case we find
somebody who is to mix soot and
saltpetre in given quantities with
water of nogiven quantity, but to
the consistency of cream, and dip
the roots of plants in it before
planting to prevent their clubbing,
and who is outrageous because he
has killed all his plants. Now the
unfortunate operator, we have no
doubt, thought of nothing worse
than Devonshire cream, which is
but one remove from butter itself,
and so lost all the advantage of
the proper quantity of water.
Generally speaking, there are not
two articles in use more destruc-
tive to vermin in the ground, and
so nutritious to plants, than soot
and saltpetre, but if anything were
over-dosed with them they would
be fatal. The soot, however, may
not have been pure. At all events,
all persons practising from recipes
should be certain about quantities.

341

AUGUST.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

Annuals.—If any remain to be
turned out, either from seed-beds
or from pots, Icse no time in put-
ting them in the borders. If any
of those in the ground have been
sown too thick, or have not been
thinned enough, remove enough to
give room, and if they are wanted
transplant those you remove.

Auriculas. — Examine all the
plants by turning the balls out of
the pots to see if the roots are
healthy. If they have become
matted round the pot strike all
the earth out of the roots, pare
away any little cankery place, and,
if the bulky part of the root has
become long, eut it back to about
two inches: this will give room
for the same plant to go back to
its own pot, or a closer one of the
same size, or even a smaller one.
The removal of a part of the main
stem, as it were, of the root, re-
moves also a great quantity of the
fibre that matted together in the
pot. Then fill the pot one-fourth
with crocks, and the rest with
compost; but the quantity put in
before the plant is placed in it
must be just enough to rest the
stump of the root on, and the
fibre must be spread round so as
to reach the edge; then complete
the filling, tucking it down with
the fingers, but keeping the plant

with its collar, which is where the
bottom sound leaf comes from the
stem, exactly level with the top
edge of the pot; thump the pot
two or three times on the potting
table or bench while you‘are fill-
ing the compost in, to settle it
down a little, and fill within a
quarter of an inch of the top
edge. It is a common practice to
pot all the stock of Auriculas,
whether they really want it or not;
but if the roots are bealthy, and
do not mat round the sides, but
merely show here and there, they
do not want it, and are none the
better for being disturbed. Of
the proper soil for Auriculas we
have a hundred different receipts
by different writers. Those who
attend to Auriculas only, and
want to excel everybody, can afford
to try experiments, and use very
exciting soil; but the private
grower should adhere to that which
will keep them in good health
without so much watchfulness.
The loam from rotted turves two-
thirds, and cowdung rotted into
mould one-third, with silver sand
to lighten it if it be too stiff, can-
not go wrong, and nothing better
can be used by private growers
who want healthy plants and good
colour. The growers for sale want
rapid growth and buge trusses ;

342 CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR AUGUST.

they want small offsets to grow | too large; and offsets may have all

into saleable plants, ard use much | the soil shaken out of their roots

more exciting composts. Dickson,
for instance, uses good loam and
sand for one-third of his compost,
half horse and half sheep’s dung |
to form another third, then leaf |
or vegetable mould and peat, which |
form another third. Now peat, if.
really pure, is good for everything |
in some proportion, and a capital |
thing to lighten stiff loam; but}
peat varies more than any: other |
soil; and while from some com- |
mons, as Wimbledon, for instance,
it is excellent, from many other
places it is full of iron, and poisons
everything it touches, or nearly so.
Now, the loam from rotted turves
is nearly one-third vegetable mould,
and one-third woody fibrous matter,
partaking a good deal of the nature
of peat, and one-third earth itself,
Ifyou are obliged to use clear loam
witbout the fibre and turf, one-
third of loam, one-third of good
peat, and one-third of vegetable
mould would be an equivalent
for the loam from rotted turves;
and with regard to the dung,
sheep’s, horse’s, or cow’s, when
rotted into mould, only differ in
strength, not in quality. Sheep’s
is the coolest, cow’s the next,
horse’s the warmest, and half
horse’s and half sheep’s would be
equivalent to all cow's; but the
grower need not fear his propor-
tions very much. When you are
potting the plants take off all off-
sets, and those which have no
roots should be put round the
edge of a small pot or pots. Let
these stand in the centre of!
larger ones filled with mould, so |
that a bell-glass may be placed over |
them, for it hastens the rooting. |
Those which have roots may be |

}

potted in proper sized pots, always |

when shifted, except in growing
time, when, if they require other
pots, the ball ought to be removed
whole. When potted give gentle
watering; place them allina frame,
and shut them up for a day or two,
shading them from the sun.
Balsams require changes of pots
and picking off the blooms all the
while you require them to increase
much in size; but when you want
to encourage the bloom they may
be left in their pots. Those who
desire to grow them very large
must give plenty of pot room,
plenty of heat, occasional picking
off the young buds, and plenty of
water. Others, who want moderate
size and early flowering, may leave
the plants to themselves as soon
as they are in thirty-two sized
pots.
Carnations and Picotees.—When
the Carnations and Picotees have
done blooming, and the shoots are
all layered, turn the pots out of
doors, and let the plants have all
the weather. See that they are
not devoured by slugs or snails.
Chrysanthemums. — Take heed
that the young plants which are
out in the open ground do not
root through the pot into the
earth ; shift them into other pots
as the old ones get filled with
roots; pot off the struck cuttings
of last month in sixty-sized pots,
and place them in the open ground
as soon as they are established,
and when the pots are filled with
roots shift them successively to
forty-eights and thirty-twos. The
plants that were lopped last month
for cuttings have become bushy,
but they must be well attended
to and shifted ; for, although they
will be later, they will be fine if

taking care that the pots be not taken care of.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR

Climbing plants must be fastened
as they advance. When they have
good growth upon them they are
very apt to weigh down and dis-
turb some of the fastening, espe-
cially Honeysuckles and Clematis,
which form large hanging heads,
and get confused, unless watched
and fastened as they grow.

Cockscombs.—Continue the treat-
ment already recommended. By
this time the flower, which was
not so large as a button when the
plants were starvelings two inches
high, is increased as much as tlie
plant; for the flower seems to
have the same power of growth as
the plant itself, and ramifies as
much,

Dahlias.—Those who grow for
exhibition must watch all the open-
ing buds, and the instant they find
that a flower will not do they should
take it off. Every flower that opens
weakens the plant, and therefore
those who are careless of every-
thing but success, and sacrifice the
appearance ‘of the garden to the
shows, should not allow one to re-
main on the plant after it is found
useless. The hunting for vermin
and destroying them must not be
relaxed, for a single earwig would
destroy a bloom. Those who ima-
gine the covering with a flower-pot
on a fiat tile will be an effectual
protection to the flower against
earwigs, must see that the pot is
perfectly level on the edge; not
one in twenty is so. But at some
of the potteries they make pots on
purpose, with no bottom, but a
groove to hold around glass ora
round tile, according to whether
they want the cover dark or light.
Continue to take shoots off any
that you require to increase; but
remember that the hotter the
weather the hotter must be your
striking frame, for the bottom

AUGUST. 343
heat ought to be as the top just to
promote striking, and this is the
great cause of difficulty in striking
late cuttings. Seedlings are be-
ginning to flower. The instant
you see that a plant will be useless
dig it up; or, if your time is short,
chop it down, and do not miss a
day in examining. The great evil
to guard against is suffering your-
self to be tempted to leave a doubt-
ful flower; for if you once do this
,ou will find a quantity of things
about you just too bad to be worth
growing, and the desire of select-
ing a few will make you bestow
time and trouble that nothing will
repay. If a flower is not hetter
than anything we have already, or
tolerably good with an entirely new
colour, reject it at once; it is in-
finitely better to see the ground
clear than cumbered with ordinary
flowers. It is necessary to lay
down a rule to begin with, and to
persevere with it, and that rule
should be to destroy everything
that is not decidedly new and good,
If you find any really desirable
flower set to work at once to take
cuttings, and propagate it, because
the sooner you have a stock the
better. Take the side-shoots as
soon as they are long enough, and,
as it is necessary to induce these
lateral shoots, it is well to stop one
or more of the branches by pinch-
ing off the ends. Take off about
two good joints of the cuttings you
intend to strike, put them singly
in pots, and plunge the pots in the
hotbed to the rim. Keep the glass
pretty close until they have struck,
watering, however, freely,and keep-
ing up the heat, but shading from
the mid-day sun.

Dutch Gardens or Geometrical
Gardens. — Be ready with some
subjects to fill up vacancies in the
flower-beds, They should be turned

344

out of pots ready to flower, because
nothing looks worse than empty
flower-beds, unless it be the dead
plants of flowers already gone by.

If the subjects are planted wide |

enough apart to get others in be-
tween, Stocks might be planted,

with China Aster and Nemophila, |

and other similar changes can be
made with advantage.

Hollyhocks. — Seedlings are in
bloom or coming into flower, and
you must examine them. Rejected
ones must be ent down at once,
and the others left. Mark with
labels such as are worth keeping,
and let the labels refer to a book,
in which you enter all the remarks
you have made on the flowers, par-
ticularly a good description of the
points for which you valne them.

Lupines. — Only the perennial
kinds are worth notice at this
time. All the seedlings that have
not been planted ont should be
placed in nursery-beds and borders,
according to where they are in-
tended to bloom the next year.
Many, however, do this earlier.

Mimulus in beds are brilliant,
and if kept well cut back, and the
old stuff that has done blooming
cut out of them from time to time,
will continue to flower until the
frost cuts them off altogether.
There is nothing more brilliant
while in bloom than the Mimulus ;
and although, if neglected, it will
go out of flower for a time, it will
continue to grow and bloom as
long as you will cut out the por-
tions that have done blooming.

Mowing the Lawn, Keeping the
Shrubs within bounds, Weeding the
Gravel Walks, and Hoeing the
Ground all over, will be found
beneficial in all the hot weather,
and watering must be governed
by the state of the weather, only
still bear in mind that once water-

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR AUGUST.

ing thoroughly is better than half
a dozen trifling waterings.
Pansies.—Continue to take side-
shoots, if you can find them, and
propagate for new beds. When
| you care to keep up a lengthened
succession of blooming sorts you
should obtain side-shoots, and
strike them whenever they pre-
sent themselves. When you can-
not take side-shoots prefer small
shoots to large ones; but there is
nothing makes a better plant than
the side-shoot that comes up from
the bottom. A new bed may be
made every month through the
summer if it be desirable, and
those that are too late for autumn
bloom will be ready for the spring.
Paths. — Narrow paths are a
nuisance in gardens. They are
unsociable to company, destruc-
tive to edgings, detract generally
from appearances, and have but
one solitary excuse, which is a
mercenary one—the ground is
scarce, and therefore people per-
suade themselves they cannot
spare so much. Nobody can ad-
mit the excuse, because if there is
to be no comfort in a garden there
may as well be no garden. Where
they are intended to walk on, three
feet is the least space that can pos-
sibly be tolerated for one person
to walk at a time; but five feet is
required for two, otherwise the
ladies’ dresses sweep over what-
ever edging there is, and hurt the
flowers nearest the borders.
Perennials. —T his is a large item
in garden plants. If they are
planted out from their seed-beds
or seed-pans early in this month
they will get sufficiently established
to stand the winter; but if driven
late, and bad weather ensues di-
rectly, they wiil for the most part
receive a check that does them
| mischief. Seedlings, if very choice,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR AUGUST.

should be potted and kept in
frames, Auriculas in particular.
Carnations and Picotees, if valu-
able sorts, should also be potted
in plain loam without dung; but
all hardy perennials are best
planted out in nursery-beds. Hol-
lyhoecks, Polyanthus, Lupinus
polyphyllus, Phioxes, Antirrhi-

nums, Columbines, Sweetwilliams, |

and many other plants, do well in
the open ground in nursery-beds
four feet wide, and plants six
inches from each other. These
must be watered when planted,
and be afterwards kept clear of
weeds.

Phloxes require support if tall,
and all tall weakly border plants
require the same. Phloxes should
be supported loosely as they rise
for bloom, because, if fastened
tightly, they cannot push up, but
bend, and even break, with a few
days’ growth. Phlox Drwmmondi
in full bloom gives the cultivator
an opportunity of selecting the
best colours for seed; but if the
form be bad it is better let alone.
This annual is inclined to be well
formed, and therefore to save seed
from any one second-rate would
be bad. These may be struck in
heat under glass, and, though only
an annual, may be thus converted,
as it were, into a perennial, be-
cause it lives through the winter.

Pinks. — Make beds with the
rooted pipings if you have not
already done so, and recollect that
a Pink is nothing without it grows
in rich ground, The effect of poor
ground is Joss of size, colour, and
character. A laced Pink loses its
lacing, the colour is spoiled, and
it is so small that it would not be
known in many cases. Look over
new beds already made, and see

od

by worms or other causes press
the earth about them.

Plant out Biennials if you have
not already done so, and also per-
ennials, Polyanthuses, Primroses,
Wallflowers, Sweetwilliams, Can-
terbury Bells, ‘Two-year Stocks,
Larkspurs, seedling Pinks, Car-
nations, Picotees, Hollyhocks, and
other choice things. Weed those
already planted out.

Tulips.— Throw the soil out of
the beds in a ridge on each side,
that it may be chopped over and
sweeten during the period between
this and November, the month for
planting the best bed, as well as
the open ones, and let there be a
very sharp look-out for wireworm,
erub, and other vermin. Examine
the bulbs in the boxes, and begin
making such alterations in the ar-
rangement as you propose. When-
ever you have half an hour to
spare, as it is generally too long a
job to be managed all at once, lay
out all the very small offsets, to
be planted early in October, or
even directly, if they are at all in
danger of drying up and shrivel-
ling.

Cheap Green Colour for palings
may be made by a mixture of four
pounds of Roman vitriol, dissolved
in boiling water, only sufficient to
dissolve it, and two pounds of
pearl ashes, all well stirred to-
gether, with two ounces of powder
of yellow arsenic. The object of
this is to daub over rough fences
and palings; it is not pretended
that a few pence are to produce a
paint equal to that which would
cost as many shillings. It soaks
into wood and kills vermin.

THE ROSE GARDEN.
Roses.—Examine all the Roses

that none of the plants are dis-|that were budded in June and

turbed.

If they have been moved | July; first, to see that none of the

5346

shoots of the stock remain on, for |

they would weaken the buds;
secondly, to see if the buds have
united. The tie may be very
gently and carefully untied ; and if
the bud be green and plump they

have taken, and the stock that is
beyond the bud may be cut off
close. Cuttings of China Roses
may be taken off, and planted in
the open ground in the shade,
under a hand-glass. If you shade
the glass it matters not where
they are put. The Roses in flower
should be, every two or three days
at the most, cleared of the de-
cayed flowers; it promotes the
continuance of the bloom. Re-
move all suckers from the roots;
prune judiciously by cutting out
all weakly shoots, and occasionally
by making shorter that which is
growing too strong. Cuttings
that have struck may be potted
off or bedded out: they make ex-
cellent autumnal flowering groups,
may be bedded out in different-
coloured patches, or with the
colours mixed. The crimson China
for the outside row of a basket,
and the common China inside,
and to finish, makes a very effect

ive appearance; but there is an
abundance of choice for your pur-
pose. The buds of rare Roses may
still be inserted if the bark of the.
stock will rise; but if not, insert”
them in common China stocks,
which will always rise, and whether
they agree or not, the bud will
grow enough to make sure of saving
the sort; but generally the fancy
Roses do well on China stocks.
Roses in pots may be shifted if at
all pot-bound, but watering with
a little manure water is almost as
good as a shift. Small kinds of
Roses are best on their own roots.
Use the knife to rank-growing
Roses, and judiciously prune all;

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR AUGUST.

that is, so far as the removal of weak
spindly shoots and superfluous
branches goes. Go over all the Rose
nurseries, to see if you can pick up
anything new and good as an im-
provement to your own collections,
but buy nothing without really
admiring it.

THE GREENHOUSE.

It is requisite to turn pretty
well everything out of the green-
house into the open air, and as
much as possible in the shade, far
enough to keep off the mid-day
sun. Cactuses may be excepted,
for they may have as much sun as
possible after they have flowered ;
nor will they require to come back
to the greenliouse until November.
Botany Bay plants, and hard-
wooded plants generally, are ra-
pidly finishing their growth. The
Camellias have set their blooms;
Azaleas have completed their
growth: be careful that none of
the roots grow through the botttom
of the pot, and root into the ground.
The pots must be examined occa-
sionally to see that the drainage
is free, and at leisure you may
begin to put sticks and regulate
their figure, preparatory to going
into the houses. The greenliouse
being more empty now than at any
other season, should be cleared
of its plants, and well washed in-
side, and, if required, painted out-
side: neglect in these particulars
is fatal. Neglecting cleanliness
inside is ruin to the plants, and
neglecting to paint as often as
wanted outside is fatal to the
woodwork, which soon decays if
the wet soak into the work.

Camellias. — Take cuttings for
stocks, and prepare the pots as
last directed. Some like the cut-
tings large, but one eye below
the surface and one above is long

.

CALENDAR OF

enough for anything. These may
be placed as thickly in the pot as
they can be put, covered with a
glass if you have one handy;
but they will strike in a frame
without any bell-glass over them.
Stocks that have grown and filled
their pots with roots may be shifted
into larger pots, because the
stronger a stock is the sooner a
bud or a graft makes a plant on
it. All the plants may be exa-
mined to see if they are pot-
bound, or have filled their pots
with roots, and any that have
done so may have a shift and one
watering to settle the earth to
the roots, but after that may be
kept short of water, lest they start
off for growth again.

Cupe Bulbs. — This is a good
season for repotting this class of
plants. They should be turned
out of the pots they grew in, and
all the bulbs and offsets collected
from among the soil. These are
then to be repotted in fresh soil,
placing one, two, or more bulbs in
a pot according to the size em-
ployed. Five or six of such bulbs
as those of Ixia or Oxalis may be
put into a pot five inches across;
the larger Gladiolus, Antholyzas,
&c., should be put singly into pots
of that size. A good general com-
post for them is made of equal
parts loam, peat, and leaf-mould,
which, if the loam is light, will
require the addition of only a very
small proportion of sand. When
all are potted they may be set on
one of the shelves of the green-
house near the light, and they
should have but little water until
growth is commenced, though the
soil ought to be kept slightly
moistened. When in full growth
and flower they take much more
water.

China Primroses.—Sow the seed

CPERATIONS FOR AUGUST. 347

the first week in light rich soil
that is to say, if you want a lot of
single flowers, and let it be placed
in the hotbed till it vegetates,
when it may be gradually removed
into the cold frame until it is
large enough to prick out into
small pots. Pick the dead leaves
off your double ones, and if the
pots are too full of roots shift
them instantly to pots a good two
inches larger across, and set them
in a cold frame, so that they get
no more rain nor sun than they
require, and you have them under
control.

Chrysanthemums in pots for
blooming in the greenhouse must
at this season be very closely at-
tended ; they must on no account
suffer from want of water, or their
lower leaves will be killed or turned
yellow, greatly to the deterioration
of the plants as regards their ap-
pearance. Cuttings of the tips of
the shoots, struck now in a mild
hotbed, make very interesting
dwarf blooming plants.

Cinerarias.— Look to the seed
of those you are saving from, and
others you want to propagate may
be parted, and all the offsets taken
from the root repotted—if small,
round the edge; if fair size, in the
centre of a sixty-sized pot.

Climbing plants, such as all the
Kennedyas and their families,
under whatever name they now
go, must be fastened to their trel-
lises as they advance. The Tro-
peolums also require constant
care, and those which have lost
their beauty may stand aside.

Cuttings of all kinds of green-
house plants may be taken now:
shoots that have completed their
growth are the proper sort to pre-
pare for striking. Cut up the
bottoms to a joint, and strip off
the lower leaves; prepare pots for

548 CALENDAR
the more delicate things, by put-
ting crocks and mould above them
to within half an inch of the top,
and fill that half-inch with silver
sand thoroughly soaked in water,
so that, without the help of any
dibble, you can stick the cuttings
in as far as the soil, and just
through the sand; a little water
will close the sand about the
stems, and a bell-glass, just a
trifle smaller than the pot, to cover
them, completes tlhe business so
far; they may then be put intoa
hotbed not too powerful. All the
hard-wooded plants will do for this
treatment.

Geraniums. — The plants cut
down last month, if kept rather
dry and exposed to the sun, will
now have broken out a supply of
young shoots. As soon as these
can be distinguished commence
regulating the shape of the plants
by thinning such as come in in-
convenient places, or are too much
crowded together, in order to give
the others more air and light. As
soon as they are well broken the
plants may have their roots re-
duced, and repotted into smaller

pots, after which they should go |

into a cold frame.

OF OPERATIONS FOR AUGUST.

Plants in Flower.—F¥ree-grow-
ing subjects in blossom, that may
be getting in. any measure ex-
hausted, but which it may be de-
sirable to maintain longer in a
state of bloom, may be assisted by
the use of weak manure water,
This may be made of various in-
gredients, but the simplest and
generally most easily obtained
material is the rotted horse-dung
from an old hotbed. Of this a
spadeful may be put to a dozen
gallons of water, and after being
stirred up and allowed to settle,
the clear liquid may be used,
diluting it with half its bulk of
pure water.

Red Spider.—This is one of the
most disagreeable of all visitors.
It insinuates its poison into the
plants, and sucks out their natural
juices, and when once they have
a fair hold a plant is sacrificed ;
besides, it is a pest even to vines.
The most effectual remedy is to
sprinkle the flues with sulphur,
and heat them so as to raise a
moderately strong fume in the
house; and we are not to be told
this remedy is a bad one because
it is possible to destroy a plant
by excess of it.

349

SEPTEMBER.

es

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

mee

Auriculas.—These must be ex-
amined, their dead leaves picked
off, the frames cleaned out, and
the pots arranged for the winter.
They may have all the air that
can be given by taking the lights
partially or altogether off on all
dry days. They must be shut
down in heavy rains, because we
must begin. now to be sparing of
water; not to let them get quite
dry, but not to give them any
water while they are at all moist.
The less water they have, so they
but keep alive, the better until
they begin to grow again. Seed-
lings must be examined, as well
as offsets, and all that are crowded
and large enough to pot singly
must be placed in small pots, one
in a pot. Seedlings that have been
pricked out many in a pot may
be replanted half the number in
a pot.

Carnations and Picotees.—As
the layers of these plants get well
rooted they must be cut off the
old plants, and be potted in clean
loam, without dung, and if the
loam you have be too stiff mix
two-thirds of it with one-third
peat, if you have it good; and if
not, put instead of it as much
sand as will open the pores a
little, for the less excitement
these plants have during the

winter months the better. These
should be two in a pot of the size
forty-eight, and when watered, to
close the earth about their roots,
they should be placed in a frame
on a very dry bottom. The best
way to ascertain whether the
layers are struck is to scrape the
earth away from the upper part
of the stem of the layer, and draw
up the peg. If the layer is pretty
firm in the soil it is rooted, and
should be cut off the old plant as
near the main stem as may be,
because whatever is useless can
be cut off afterwards. Having
severed the layer from the plant,
thrust a trowel or a wooden spud
into the soil, sc as to raise the
earth and roots together without
breaking the tender fibres; then
with a sharp knife cut off all the
stem below the part rooted, and
pot them near the sides of the
pot, opposite each other. Let
each pot contain a pair of the
same sort. On no account pot two
different varieties in the same pot,
for it leads to occasional mistakes.
The closer the stem below the
root is cut off to the joint next the
root the better, for there is less
chance of rotting.

Dahlias. — Place extra stakes
where they are necessary to sup-
port the growing branches, for the

350

height of the bloom may be con.
sidered to last until the frost
catches them. The growth of the
branches, however, renders them
too heavy to be supported by the
single stake, and therefore two or
three, or even more, are some-
times necessary to save the heavy
side branches from the effects of
the wind. Towards the end of the
month you must expect frost, and
be prepared for it, and it is de-
sirable to earth-up the stems and
roots a few inches all round, that
the crown may be protected in
the event of a frost coming, be-
cause, if at all injured, the root
may be lost by rot during the
winter, or the stem may rot round
the crown and destroy tlie eyes:
earthing-up is an effectual protec-
tion. We need not repeat the
directions for last month as to the
general management. The cut-
tings that are striking, or have
struck, must be kept growing in
heat until tubers are fairly formed,
when they may be gradually
cooled, and have no more water;
they may be then placed in the
greenhouse to dry and die down;
but this must not be done until
there is a fair tuber formed,
When perfectly dry the pots may
be piled up in the dry part of the
greenhouse on their sides, or
placed anywhere out of the
danger of frost, heat, and wet;
but many of these will not be
ready till October, or perhaps
November.

Duhlia Seedlings.—By this time
you will have been able to get rid
of hundreds not worth growing,
and you continue to see them
opening from day to day without
discovering anything, perhaps,
really worth propagating. You
must not be disheartened by the
want of success so far as you have

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

yvone; the best may come out
last, and, inasmuch as single and
semi-double ones are always earlier
tlan others more double and de-
cided, be not therefore careless
from day to day because you havé
so often been disappointed, but
go more particularly over those
which you have considered doubt-
ful, and, unless there is something
very good of an old colour, or
very novel in colour, have resolu-
tion enough to throw them away,
and be not perplexed with a quan-
tity of doubtful things not worth
the trouble of propagating. The
only varieties not really good that
are worth trying again are those
which happen to have splendid
petals, but from their want of
doubleness are of no use. It is
just worth while to try such as
these a second year, by cutting the
bulbs up into a few pieces, and
giving them a chance of coming
double. The only excuse for this
is the constant experience of our
best flowers coming now and then
single and bad, showing that a
really good flower may give bad
blossoms. We argue, therefore,
that deficient blooms in a seedling
may be the same as deficient
flowers in an acknowledged good
sort—only accidental. Pick off all
the ripe seeds of Dahlias, and
especially keep separate any of
the pods or sorts that you may
have marked as having been re-
markably fine. Let the seeds be
dried in the sun, and rubbed, to
clean them from the husks. They
may then be preserved in dry
boxes until wanted for use. The
seedlings that are really promising
might be protected in some way
from the chance of frost, and
especially earch-up round tie
stems and roots, as directed for
old plants, to save the roots from

CALENDAR
‘its destructive effects, even if
you cannot save the whole
plant.

General Affairs.—Cut down the
decaying stems of all plants out
of flower; hoe and rake the bor-
ders, to clear away all weeds and
leaves, and large stones; roll the
gravel walks after rain, and always
keep them clear of weeds; con-
tinue to mow the lawn as long as
the grass grows. Prepare all the
frames for the reception of their
winter tenants, by clearing the
ground on which they stand, and
brushing or washing out the wood-
work inside, so as to disturb the
eggs of insects. The Box edgings
have done growing, so that if
necessary some could be removed,
but the principal alterations in
gardens begin next month. Tie
-up Chrysanthemums in the open
ground, and remove the potted
plants into the houses or frames.
Potted annuals past their bloom
should be turned out, and the pots
cleaned and put away. ‘I'he earth
from pots should be all placed
together in a heap; it is generally
of great use to mix with other
composts.

Geraniums in the Borders and
Beds should have cuttings taken,
that may be struck and grown
slowly through the winter, for
bedding out in spring, and any of
the old planted out ones that are
worth saving should be taken up
and potted, to go into frames or
the greenhouse for the winter.
Those struck now should have
their tops pinched off directly
they have struck root and begin
to grow, because they ought to be
kept stocky and short. They must
have but little water during the
winter, and be covered up, if in
frames, to keep out the frost, for
the garden depends much on a

OF OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

55]

supply of these plants in the
spring. .

Hardy Annuals.—We do not
mean those usually called hardy,
because some of them will not
stand a frost; but such as will
may be sown to come forward in
early spring. Self-sown annuals
suggest this, because they sow
themselves by dropping when ripe,
and itis at least the natural season
for all hardy seeds.

Lilies, Crown Imperials, and
other soft scaly bulbs, may now
be removed carefully, for they
will not bear to remain out of the
ground long enough to dry, as
they begin to get weaker. It is
an early time for bulbs in general,
but those planted, or merely re-
moved from one place to another
pretty quickly, take no harm. Tlie
scaly bulbs are imported in sand,
or placed in sand immediately on
their arrival, and if now procured
should be planted forthwith.

Management of Flower-beds, &c.
—About the end of September
gardens look deplorable if there
has been a sharp frost, and there
must be something done to make
them decent. By a very simple
provision a wonderful improve-
ment may be made in their ap-
pearance. There is nothing more
easily managed than dwartf ever-
greens in pots; they may be
potted very small, and kept in
a common bed in the young
state, and shifted from time to
time as they grow older. Of
the dwarf plants best suited to
the purpose we are about to use
them for, we may mention Lau-
restinus, Arbor-vite, Red Cedar,
Rhododendron, Kalmia, Andro-
meda, Yew, Box, Holly, and Ber-
beris aquifolia. We are looking
upon the desolate borders and
flower - beds, whose ornamental

352 CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

tenants have been killed to the|struck, but they should be put
ground, or so damaged that we|in pans to be covered with hand-
must remove them. First cut} glasses, and placed on a little
down everything that is past its bottom heat, because the alterna-
beauty, and a blemish; rake off | tions of sun and frost would en-
all the decayed leaves, stems, and danger them if exposed to the
flowers, so that the border may | weather; besides, the bottom heat
be at least clear; then bring forth | facilitates the striking. Tlie potted
your dwarf shrubs, and place them | plants must be put in tle cold
about the borders where there is! frame or pit, near the glass, and
room for them, looking well to} when the pots fill with roots
the diversification of the various | shifted to larger. These may in
kinds, and providing for the best|the course of the winter be for-
effect. Now, having made up|ward enough to occupy sixteen-
your mind where they will look | sized pots, and bring early spring —
best, plunge the pots into the! flowers as fine as in the open
ground, covering the rims_ that! ground.
they may not be seen, and regu- Perennials that have done
lating the surface of the ground | flowering muy be parted, and
as you proceed, that the border} planted out in nursery-beds. A
may look highly finished, and the | great number of herbaceous plants
garden complete, although not so | come under this definition. Where
full of flowers. This winter dress-| any have grown into patches too
ing is highly appropriate for geo- | large for the place, they especially
metrical gardens, but the shrubs} require attention; the patches
should be all planted uniformly. If may be removed altogether and
there are Hollies, let all the bed} parted, to be replanted; or, if you
be alike, or else the sorts diver- | desire to retain a patch, chop some
sified in a uniform manner. If | off wherever it can be best spared,
the circles of beds are six, let or all round it, and leave only as
three be alike, and the other three | much as you require.
alike; if the circle be eight, let) Seedling plants of any kind, not
four be alike, and the other four | yet disposed of, may be planted
alike, however different the threes | out if hardy, and potted if tender.
and the fours may be from each Tender Plants in Borders and
oiher. This is worth attention, | Beds.— All the kinds of plants
and there is yet room for the dis- | that will not stand the winter out
play of taste. of doors, and are required to be
Michaelmas Daisies, or tall Asters | preserved, should be taken up and
of all the kinds, should be sup- | potted, and headed in, to be kept
ported, if in exposed situations: | through the winter: the cuttings
a stake driven down the middle, | taken off may be struck for next
and bass matting tied from it} year’s stock. Fuchsias require a
round the stems, so that the! good deal of cutting down; Ver-
branches may be tidy. benas want cutting in. You can
Pansies may still be planted in| hardly have too large a stock of
beds, and potted in sixty-sized | all bedding-out plants, so that you
pots, to be framed all the winter.| should make all the plants you
The cuttings of such as we are | can of the cuttings. All the plants
anxious to propagate may be| tliat can be spared should be left

Ka

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER. 359

in the beds and borders untouched,|iures of flowers that could be
because they will continue to give imagined; so long as they were
flowers till the frost cuts them off, something out of the common
and that may be protracted till way there was no other qualifica-
Christmas, though it is not safe | tion necessary; ugly or handsome,
to leave any that are wanted | round, square, or three-cornered,
after the middle of this month. no matter, they were described
Very early Bulbs, such as Gro- | “ accurately,” with a careful omis-
cuses, Snowdrops, Daffodils, and sion of any point that would mili-
some kinds of Narcissus, may be | tate against them with the English
planted and potted now, though growers; but they were never-
it would do any time from now | theless frightful objects, and only
till November. came here to be grown once and
Details of the Properties of | destroyed. Let us, however, ex-
Flowers.— We have in our pub-| cept Roses, for they had a fair
lished rules for estimating new| start with them, and kept it.
flowers avoided all details that | Hundreds that they sent over were
interfere with variety, and we | good for nothing, but there were
cannot help smiling at the dis- | some that made amends for all the
coveries made by some who may | disappointment occasioned by the
be called special pleaders in the|less valuable. At present the
fancy. We have adopted general | French are acting upon our own
rules. In form we admit of no | notionsof perfection. Their Dahlias
compromise; the outline, the|are esteemed according as they
smoothness of edge, the thickness | approach our standard, and some
of petal, the denseness (not the | are very beautiful approximations
brilliance) of colour, the decision | to what we esteem as good. The
of marking—all these things we | interchange of flowers has done a
‘must have; but the man who pre- | good deal towards this. Mr. Salter,
tends to tell us how this outline | of Versailles, now of North-end,
maust be formed, what shape the | Fulham, was the link which joined
inner portion of petals must be, | the French and English florists in
how the thing is to be made up,| the one great object; for he sent
-and so forth, would reduce per-| over the best of the French, and
fection to a sameness that nobody | had back the best of the English,
would tolerate. When, therefore, we | till they perfectly understood all
see the small fry of floriculture en- | our notions.
tering into details that merely tend
to limit the variety, we think it THE ROSE GARDEN.
a pity they can find journals to| The Roses of the summer kind
msert their opinions; we would) will have made their growth, arid
rather see them driven to set up| the heads of standards will be
a journal or a periodical of their | very large. All the branches may
own, because their crude ideas| be shortened to a foot or so in
would then be only read by per-| length, that they may not catch
sons who agree with them. the winds so much, because, if
French Flowers—There was a) left with all their growth on, they
time when the French Carnations, | would be liable to be broken. If
Picotees, Dahlias, and Tulips) a head with all its summer growth
were the most outrageous carica- | on were unsupported, it would te
QA

tes eengsoepuereneny teense

B54

blown off its standard or stem—an
accident by no means uncommon
where the stake is fast to the stem,
and the head not well secured or
reduced in weight; but it will not
be right to prune it close, for the
winter frosts will often kill the

ends of the branches an eye or)

two back. All the hanging branches
on pillar, wall, festooned, or arched
Roses should be fastened in their
places or removed: nothing ought
to be loose.

Cuttings may be taken of all
the China and Bourbon soris; in
fact, of all the smooth - barked
kinds. Let the pots in which
they are to be struck be filled
with soil, all but an inch, which
inch must be sand; prepare the
cuttings by taking off all the wood
below the joint it is intended to
insert, and put these cuttings into
the sand low enough to touch the
mould, but not enter it. The
sand should be completely satu-
rated with wet, and, when all the
cuttings are in, watered to settle
it close to the stems. These may
be placed in slight bottom heat,
and be covered with bell-glasses
that touch the sand and keep
them air-tight. Cuttings may also
be placed in the open border, not
more than two inches apart in the
rows, and the rows six inelies
from each other. Trim the Roses
that are still in bloom by cutting
out weakly wood, but not mate-
rially affecting the branches left
on, which should be the stronger
ones.

Seedlings, and young Roses in
beds, must be weeded and watered,
and any that are flowering may be
propagated or rejected as they
deserve. Itis useless to preserve
any second-rate flowers; they are

better thrown away, for they only |
perplex and vex the grower, who,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

had better never boast at all of
raising seedlings than boast of
raising inferior ones.

THE GREENHOUSE.

Prepare the houses for the recep-
tion of plants, which must be tied
and trained in the form they are
wanted before they are placed in
the houses; examine their drain-
age; see whether any want a shift
to larger pots. When such is
the case let there be a sufficient
difference in the size to enable
you to thrust down the soil solid
between the ball and the pot, or
the plant will suffer. At this
period the plants have, for the
most part, made their growth and
set for bloom; therefore, unless
they are pretty full of roots, it
is not desirable to shift them,
for they get occasionally excited
into growth instead of flower;
the leaf-germs, that would lie
dormant until after flowering, be-
come excited and grow, and, by
taking away the nourishment from
the germs of flowers, they decline,
shrivel, and disappear in dust and
scales. But we must particularise
afew plants. |

Azalea Indica.— These noble
plants may be all placed in their
pits, or, if too large for pits, in the
cool part of the greenhouse. They
will, however, be better kept cool
all the winter. They want no fire
heat, but they must not be damp.
All the small newly-struck ones
must be potted in small pots. If
the plants are to go up pyramid
shape they must be left to grow
their own way, all but checking
side-shouts as soon as they have
grown enough, and stopping any
branch that is growing too strong.
Where you design the plant to
be short and bushy the top must
be taken off, when itis first potted,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

within two or three joints of the
bottom. The cuttings continue
growing, but the plants which
have made their growth after
blooming are not to be excited
into further growth on any ac-
count: they need but little water,
and cannot be kept too cool.
Seedlings must be weeded, and
when large enough pricked out
three or four in a pot round the
edges, and then, when large
enough, potted singly; therefore
now prick out small seedlings, and
pot those that are large enough,
and shift any that have been pre-
viously potted and filled their pots
with roots. Large specimens re-
quire to be regulated a little,
because the beauty of the plant
consists in a tolerably even sur-
face, for the blooms will come at
the ends. All the shoots, and
any branches that protrude very
much, must be tied up sloping
higher, or down sloping lower, to
bring the end even with the sur-
face formed by the ends of the
other branches. All through the
winter they should be kept close
in bad weather, and have all the
air when the weather is fine.
Camellia Japonica.—T hese noble
plants now show their bloom-
buds plainly. Take the plants one
at a time, and, by means of a
stick or two and bass matting,
constrain their form to the best
advantage. If there be any strag-
gling branch with no bloom on
cut it off at once; but if there
be a bloom-bud let it be till the
flower comes out, when it may be
taken to greater advantage. These
may -be carefully shifted if they
require room, but not carelessly,
for the buds may grow instead of
bloom. Let these plants be so
placed as to have plenty of room.
Camellias may be placed on the

355

cooler side of the house, if there
be one side cooler than the
other.

Chinese Primroses.—While these
plants are growing and filling their
pots with roots continue to give
them room. In shifting from one
pot to another never omit the
drainage. You need not break the
ball of earth, nor remove the old
drainage, but let there always be
some fresh to each; stir the surface
well, and see that the fibres are
not damaged by stirring too low.
These plants should be oceasion-
ally well watered, but not often.
When the soil in the pot is satu-
rated it will last a long time
without any more, and the plant
might almost flag before it is
watered again.

Fuchsias.—The plants that have
bloomed early, and have got
shabby, should be deprived of all
their weakly shoots, and the strong
ones should be spurred in within
two or three inches of the main
stem at the bottom, and within
half an inch at the top. They may
then be placed in a dry part of
the greenhouse, where they will
not require any further watering
for months. ‘Those which have
not begun to look shabby, but
continue flowering, may be placed
in a conspicuous part of the green-
house for the sake of the flowers.
All small plants may be kept
growing, and due attention be
paid to stopping them, or other-
wise, according as you desire to
regulate their shapes; but the
water must not be lavished much
upon Fuchsias at this time of
year. The blooming plants absorb
a good deal of moisture, and those
in full growth do also; but, for
the most part, these plants are
not moving much, and therefore
must only be watered when the

356

soil is getting very dry. The
common run of Fuchsias of the
ordinary size, and not particular
sorts, may be put under the stage
of the greenhouse, or in some of
the pits, or anywhere else out of
the way of frost and wet, all
through the winter. Cuttings of
Fuchsias may be taken and struck ;
cuttings already struck may be
potted off singly in small pots;
others that have filled their pots,
and are in good growing order,
may be shifted.
Geraniums.—Cuttings that have
struck may be potted off in sixty-
sized pots, and placed in pits or
on shelves in the greenhouse.
Those potted off last month, if
not stopped before, may have
their tops pinched off, to make
them throw out side-shoots. The
larger plants must be stopped
wherever they are growing too
fast. Let them have good growing
room, for if they are cramped
they cannot grow handsome.
Some branches may be growing
out of shape; such branches must
.be shortened. Examine all the

CALENDAR OF

drainages to see they are quite,
'at the root, and a damp warm

clear, and if not repot the plants.

Kennedyas, and many other
climbing plants, require occasion-
ally to be unwound from their
trellises and pruned. A good deal
of old wood can occasionally be
removed, and plenty of strong

OPERATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER.

young growth left to cover the
trellis again. In retaining those
that have been undone make
sure of the bottom portion being
covered, and if you can only go
upwards a few inches there is
never any difficulty in covering
the upper portion. If climbing
plants want shifting, itis a trouble-
some job, unless they are cut down
very much, or left exactly as they
are, and can be shifted with their
trellis covered as itis. Climbing
plants running up pillars, or
planted out in the conservatory or
greenhouse, may be cut in and
regulated, so that the branches
shall not be hanging about. You
may strike all the cuttings.
Thrips.—These are troublesome
little pests, and require to be kept
under, or they soon render the
plants shabby. In the case of
choice plants, and those having
moderately large leaves, it is quite
desirable to look over them, and
crush all of the insects that can be
seen with the finger and thumb,
then fumigate twice in close
succession, and ply the syringe
freely afterwards. Plenty of food

atmosphere, are fatal conditions
to both the thrips and red spider,
which can only multiply in a dry
atmosphere, and chiefly attack
plants whose growth is becoming
exhausted.

or

~

OCTOBER.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

Alpine plants in pots should be
plunged in a bed of sand or coal
ashes, to protect their roots from
severe frosts. The situation chosen
for them should be moderately
sheltered, and where they can,
be covered up to protect them
from heavy rains; but except
in very severe weather they re-
quire little other shelter, and
this is best afforded by a cover-
ing of some such open material
as dried fern, the dried haulm
of peas, &e. Nothing should im-
pede a free circulation of air
about them when not excessively
frosty.

Alterations in contemplation
should now be commenced in fine
dry weather, and if there be rain
come on so as to make the ground
clammy, work it no longer, for
you will do more harm than
good. Form your paths, clumps,
or borders with a line and pegs,
or, if you design any particular
shape that is not to be marked
out by geometrical rules, lay a
line along the ground about the
form you want, and adjust it by
pegging it imside or outside,
according as you want to send it
one way or the other. Dig the
clumps two spits deep. If the
bottom is good, turn it to the top;
if bad, merely loosen it and leave

it at the’ bottom. If you are
going to lay out a garden begin by
digging, trenching, and levelling
before you mark a road or a path,
and then form these by laying
a line down on one side, and
adjusting it to the exact sweep
you require. If you design the
edging or verge to be turf, lay
down the turf carefully, with the
best edge to the path side, that
the line may be kept perfect;
then, with the help of a rod the
length that is intended for the
width of your road or path, lay
the turf on the other side, so that
the’ smooth line is kept, and the
width preserved uniform all the
way. Next form the shape of
your clumps by first putting down
pegs nearly to your mind, and
then laying down turves with the
best edge inwards, so as to mark
the exact form you require. These
being marked out, all the surface
has to be covered close with turves,
or, if on too large a scale for that,
levelled with the verges already
down, and sown with grass seeds,
and rolled all over. The general
planting must be left till Novem-
ber for choice, because many ever-
greens have not completed their
growth; and in the fine weather
planting is good from now until
February, or even March, though

558

much better in November than
any month in the year.

Balsams.— Gathering the seed
is almost the only thing left to do
with these plants, because they
have passed their beauty; and if
the seed be not wanted they may
be turned out of the pots, beds, or
borders as soon as their bloom
fails. :

Borders.—Clear off all decaying
plants. Cut down the stems of
flowering plants that have done
blooming. Weed the borders, and
leave everything clean and tidy,
that they may require little else
until the herbaceous plants and
bulbs all appear in spring.

Carnations and Picolees ought
to be all potted off, and in their
winter frames ; they must not have
much water, but in dry weather
let the glasses be taken off, and
the plants have all the air. Of
course, any that are not petted off
should be attended to directly;
and if you have more than you
can pot off, plant them in beds a
foot apart every way, and choose
a high and dry part of the garden,
as they are easily destroyed by
damp.

Chrysanthemums. — The potted
plants should be now taken into
the house, or placed in pits, if
they are not already secured. If
the blooms show, or rather the
buds, and the plants are in the
least cramped for pot room, you
may shift them to pots one size
larger, because they will not grow
much higher, and the new life
which will be imparted to them
will be thrown into the size of the
blooms; but if the buds do not
show, continue them in the same
pots: they should have all the air
that can be given on mild days.
The plants in the open. border
may require support, especially if

CALENDARt OF OPERATIONS FOR OCTOBER.

they have not been shortened; one
stake and a band of bass matting
will be sufficient: place the stake
at the back.

Climbing Plants.— Honeysuckles,
Roses, Clematis, Pyrus Japonica,
and other plants used to cover
arbours, fronts of houses, walls,
&e., should be now regulated, all
the waste and straggling growth
cut back, the loose branches
intended to be saved nailed in
their proper places. The fasten-
ings of the main branches should
be looked to, and if weak removed
for stronger ones, for the winter
weather tries the strength very
much.

Crocuses.—This month you may
commence planting out these
early-flowering bulbs. The old-
fashioned way was to plant them
all along the edges singly, but
they are more effective in patches
of half a dozen, and much further
apart. A patch of yellow, then one
of blue, then one of white, are
more effective, too, than mixing
them, besides the stock being kept
more valuable. There are new
blue ones and new white ones, as
well as a grey and some shaded
varieties, all raised from seed in
England, and if let out in this
country will be at a good price
for the growers to make stock
from, and not in any quantities.
Plant them two inches deep, and
six inches from the edge, other-
wise their green leaves will grow
over, and destroy any edging you
may have, whether it be Box or
anything more or less valuable.

Crown Imperials. —“These are
soft and scaly bulbs, which ought
to be planted as soon after they
are taken up as possible, so that
imported bulbs should be planted
immediately: these should be
planted three feet from the edge,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR OCTOBER.

for they run up two feet high, and
form a handsome bushy plant.
There are various shades of yellow,
and some nearly white: they may
be planted three inches below the
surface, and should be left in the
ground two or three seasons with-
out taking up...

Cuttings of the various flower-
garden plants, as Verbenas, Jaco-
beas, Gazanias, Cupheas, &c., if
not already planted, should be put
into store pots, well drained, filled
three parts full with a light open
compost, and then covered with
an inch of white sand, into which
the cuttings are to be planted; the
pots should be placed in a frame
or pit where there is a slight
bottom heat. They must not be
too much crowded, nor at any
time kept too damp, or they will
become decayed. ‘These cuttings,
when rooted, are to be hardened
off gradually to the temperature of
a greenhouse, in which they may
stand on a light airy shelf until
spring. Cuttings put in earlier
will have to be potted either sepa-
rately in small sixties, or two or
three in a large sixty-sized pot, to
remain through the winter.

Dahlias should be taken up, and
their labels be wired to them, the
stump cut down to within four
inches of the crown; they should
then be placed in a dry outhouse,
with their stems downwards, so
that any superfluous moisture
should run out of the hollow
stalks ;. but if in any place which
is not protected against frost, they
must be covered with mats and
litter at night, and hot uncovered
until frost has disappeared. As
soon as they are fairly dried they
must be placed where they are to
be wintered: the very choice sorts
of which you have no duplicates
may be placed in dry sand in|

\

359

boxes, or they may be potted in
dry soil, or they may be hung up
in the greenhouse or any apart-
ment in which the frost does not
or cannot reach them. The ordi-
nary ones of which you have du-
plicates may, for want of a better
place, be thrown in a heap into a
dry cellar, or underneath the stage
of the greenhouse. Wires are ne-
cessary to fasten the labels, be-
cause string would rot long before
the winter passed, and the Dablias
would be almost useless without
their names.

Deciduous Flowering Shrubs
should be now removed, and
planted where they are required
on the borders, in the clumps, or
on the lawn; the various kinds of
Almond and Peach, the double-
flowering Cherry, Pyrus Japonica,
Persian, Siberian, and common
Lilacs, the Guelder Rose, ail the
Thorns, scarlet and yellow Horse-
chestnut, and all other.ornamental
deciduous flowering trees and
shrubs. Prune them at the roots
to remove all damaged portions,
and lessen the shrubs in head to a
reasonable form, because they are
often of straggling growth until
brought into form in these places.
Dig the holes large enough to
allow of the roots being spread
out, tread them firmly in the
ground, and take care that they
are put no lower in the soil than
they were when last growing: the
collar of the root should be even
with the surface.

Early Tulips, the most neglected
and yet beautiful of spring flowers,
should be planted in patches of
half a dozen, all of one sort; but
there are many sorts—rich scarlet,
deep rose, light and dark yellow,
white, and many-coloured stripes—
which may be had in tlower at the
same time as Crocuses, or imme-

360

diately after to form a good suc-
cession: these should be planted
three inches deep, and a foot from
the edge.

Fancy Tulips.—Let all the small
offsets, breeders, and out-beds of
Tulips be planted in the course of
this month: plant three inches
below the surface, large roots six
inches apart every way, and small
offsets three inches apart in the
row, and the rows six inches from
each other. Turn the soil over
from the best bed, and look well
after grubs and wireworms; to-
wards the end of the month return
the soil to the bed, first having
placed a layer of decomposed cow-
dung two inches thick at the
bottom; when lightly thrown in
without pressing, and left in a
ridge to throw off the water, it
may remain to settle.

Half-hardy plants, which it may
be desirable to preserve through
the winter, such as scarlet Gera-
niums, Fuchsias, some of the
dwarf Lobelias, Calceolarias, and
any other subjects of this class,
if the weather has permitted them
to remain out all this time, should
now at once be taken up and
potted into pots as small as their
roots can be coiled into, a few of
the straggling branches removed,
and the plants set into a frame,
which should be kept rather close
for a few days until they have
partially recovered. They should
have a thorough watering after
being potted, and daily sprinklings
afterwards for a fortnight at least,
or longer if they do not get esta-
blished. After they begin to grow
they must have air, gradually in-
creased till they are exposed in the
same degree as ordinary green-
house or frame plants. It is not
ia general desirable to be over-
crowded in winter with these

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR OCTOBER.

potted-up subjects, but in the case
of some of those named, and others
which are more easily propagated
by division than by any other mode,
such plants often prove valuable
either for planting as bulky speci-
mens the following year, or some-
times for propagating purposes
earlyinspring. Scarlet Geraniums
should always be so preserved.

Follyhocks may be cut down to
within six inches of the ground,
and remove all stakes for the
winter. If any are to be parted
for propagation, shake the earth
out of the root, and carefully cut
it into as many pieces as are re-
quired, taking care that there is a
good heart to each piece of root;
let these be planted in a store
bed a foot apart, to grow into
strength.

Tris. — This extensive family
comprises tuberous and bulbous-
rooted plants, the former with
sword-like foliage, the latter vari-
ous, some almost like rushes,
others like grass. The tuberous-
rooted may be parted to increase
them this month; the bulbous may
be planted. The English varieties
of the bulbous-rooted Iris are far
more beautiful than the original
species. When you part the tube-
rous-rooted you have to retain
one or more eyes or shoots to each
piece of tuber, according to the
size you require the plants, or the
numbers you want to make: plant
them from nine inches to a foot
apart every way.

Narcissus.—This is a large and
varied family, all interesting and
beautiful, and should be planted in
patches of three all of a kind; for
it is a bad plan to mix the colours
and sorts—first, on account of the
deterioration of the stock; secondly,
because they are not so rich in ap-
pearance.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR OCTOBER.

Other Bulbs.—We have always
considered that, on account of
their beauty and season, bulbs in
general deserve greater encourage-
ment in English gardens than they
ever receive. A border may be
made up of bulbs that vie with
the finest productions of the gar-
den. The price may deter some
persons from beginning; but all
the Lilies, the Scillas, many Ixias,
are beautiful in their season.
Gladiolus, Hyacinths, and others,
some of which we shall mention
more particularly next month, are
deserving of attention.

Pansies.—Any that are struck
and not yet planted out should be
disposed of directly, either in store
beds or at the proper distances for
blooming, or in small pots singly,
to be ready for turning out in the
spring or changing to larger pots.
Potted plants designed for bloom-
ing early and under cover should
be shifted to larger pots as they
fill the small ones with roots, if
room is scarce, or placed at once
in their blooming pots if you have
space to house them.

Peonies.—All the plants whose
leaves have died down may be
taken up and separated if wanted
for propagation, but the tubers
must be so separated as to leave
a good germ to each; but the
plant is not handsome until it has
spread again a little, so that,
unless number is wanted, they
should not be parted too small.
The Tree Peony should not be
touched, for the larger the speci-
men the better and more beautiful.

Perennials of the hardy class,
which are liable to suffer from the
dampness of the climate if left
exposed, should be now taken up,
and potted to be preserved in dry
airy frames. Of this class are all
the Lobelias, which must have no |

B61

water until spring, and some of
the Pentstemons which are ever-
green with fleshy leaves liable to
decay. As many should be pre-
served as may be wanted in the
following season.

Phloxes.—Those out of bloom
may be parted; any late ones that
have not begun to die down may
remain till they do; but for effect
they are better in good-sized
patches or clumps, and especially
the tall ones. As the foliage
turns colour on the blooming
stems, cut the stems down close
without interfering with the small
shoots at the bottom.

Pink beds may still be made
with advantage, but it is even
better to do it in September; the
plants get a firmer hold in the
ground, and resist the frosts and
changes better. Pinks in store
pots must be kept pretty dry, and
must stand on dry bottoms in the
frames and pits.

Polyanthuses and Primroses.—
Stir the earth between these, so
as not to hurt their roots; look
well for any stray slugs or snails
in their neighbourhood, for no
plants offer greater temptation
than this fleshy-leaved tribe of
plants.

Snowdrops.— The double and
single may be planted in any situ-
ations where they can be seen
well, for they are but small objects,
and would be lost in some places.
They ought to be two inches deep,
and in patches of a dozen.

Sweetwilliams, Wallflowers, Can-
terbury Bells, and all the biennials
and perennials that are required
to bloom in certain places, should
be removed now, unless the places
are at present occupied by things
not yet done with: the sooner all
such plants are in their flowering
places the better.

362
The Orange, White, and Mar-

one place to another, and if they
are to remain a year or two, one
good bulb in a place is enough.

Compost for Pansies, Pinks,
Carnations, and some other peren-
nials, should be light and rich.
This may be formed various ways.
One part loam, one part leaf-
mould, one part rotten cowdung,
and one part peat, forms a com-
post that will grow anything, but
especially the above plants, in
first-rate style.

Liming of ground to get rid of
slugs and snails is very effective ;
but it should be applied only at
daybreak, or in the evening, or
when a dark cloudy day has
brought out these pests from their
holes, for every one it touches is
destroyed. If spread over the
ground when it is dry, and the
slugs are in their holes, they will
not come out to it; but the first
shower of rain spoils it as a re-
medy, and therefore they are not
destroyed.

Shading of flowers is always
necessary if they are for exhibi-
tion ; but the further off the shade
is the better. Flowers covered
close are affected in their colour,
and this is detrimental to many,
especially white and yellow grounds
with coloured edges ; for the latter,
as in Dahlias, often disappear
altogether, and are always less
distinct.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

Gather all the seeds of Roses.
Go over the summer varieties with
a sharp knife. Cut all weakly
shoots close in to the stem they
proceed from, and if it was not
done, but must be, shorten all the
main branches to a foot or so at
the most, but six inches will not

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR OCTOBER.

| be too short, that the heads may
tagon Lilies may be removed from |

not hold the wind. Make all fast
to their stakes to stand the rough
winds of winter. Dig between
Roses or round them, but not
enough to damage their roots.
Remove all suckers from the roots,
and all branches from the stock, if
any have escaped notice and grown
during summer.

Cuttings of Roses that have
struct root should be potted
singly, or, if of the hardy sorts,
planted out in the beds.

Rosariums may be formed this
month, and there is no period of
the year more favourable for plant-
ing; and although, from the great
reduction of the heads which
necessarily takes place in pruning,
the roots may be reduced a good
deal also, there is nothing gained
by the operation unless they are
damaged in taking up.

Planting.—In each place where
a tree is to be planted dig into
the ordinary soil a good spade-
ful of rotten dung, and mix it
well with the soil in about an
eighteen-inch circle, and form the
hole large enough to allow of the
roots being spread out. Let
every damaged part of the root
be cut clean out, and any very
straggling portions also be re-
moved. Then place the plant in
the hole, which must be filled up,
and by raising the plant up and
down two or three times a little,
the earth will get underneath and
between the roots, so as to allow
of its being trodden over firmly.
Then drive a stake into the ground
so as to fasten the stem that it
may not sway. Dwarf plants are
treated in the same way, but the
hole made on a smaller scale, and
no stakes required.

Tender Roses should have their
branches protected for the winter

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR OCTOBER.

by a covering of fern. For the
dwarf plants this may be stuck
into the soil among the plants;
for standards it must be tied
amongst the branches which form
the head, the stock or stem re-
quiring no protection; and when
the plants are trained against a
wall or trellis, the material should
be thinly fixed over them in that
position, commencing at bottom,
so that the layers may overlap
like tiles on a roof. They must
not be so thickly covered as to
exclude light and air: what may
appear a very slight covering in-
deed affords a very great amount
of protection. The Tea-scented,
China, and Bourbon classes of
Roses are those which most require
this protection.

THE GREENHOUSE,

This department requires now
to be kept as open as possible.
All the plants will be better for
air if the weather be at all mild;
and if the weather be damp, light
a fire and open the house to dry
it now and then; but if the house
be dry, and the weather damp,
keep all close. Be particular in
keeping all kinds of plants clear
of dead leaves, and remove all
litter and dirt from the shelves.
Water must be administered
sparingly, that is, seldom; for
whenever a plant is watered the
entire soil in the pot must be
wetted. Many a plant has been
lost by misunderstanding what it
wants, and to be directed to be
sparing of water was enough to
make them give a little instead of
a quantity; whereas it should be
understood that the soil is to be
saturated as completely as at any
other season, but much more
seldom. For instance, when a
plant is growing it requires the |

363

soil to be saturated or filled as it
were once a day, whereas, if you
are to water sparingly, it may be
wanted only once a week. The
effect of giving small quantities
often, instead of large quantities
seldom, is that in the one case the
water reaches an inch down the
soil, and all below that, though
equally supplied with fibres, is
kept dry, while in the other the
whole soaks equally all through
the pot whenever it is adminis-
tered. On a judicious watering
there is more depends than on
anything that a plant requires.
No month ought to pass without
examining the ball of a plant, by
rapping the edge of the pot on
the bench so as to turn out the
ball of earth into your hand, and
then you can see whether it is all
moist alike or otherwise, and also
whether the roots are getting too
much matted round the sides of
the pot, for if they are, a shift to
a larger-sized pot is necessary.
Beyond this, the greenhouse only
wants general attention to clean-
liness, to a sufficiency of air, and
to the efficiency of the drainage.
Calceolarias require much the
same treatment as Cinerarias.
Chinese Primrouses, which should
be attaining almost to their bloom-
ing size, like to be put in the full
light, and they should have plenty
of air, in order that the blossoms
may come of a rich colour. If
they have not been recently shifted
they will probably require repot-
ting to carry them through the
winter; and in this case it should
be done at once. Great care must
be taken with such newly-potted
subjects, that they do not get
soddened with water.
Chrysanthemums in pots are the
better for the shelter of a green-
house, or even a little forcing,

364

to aid the development of their
flowers. When they are taken
into a greenhouse at this season
for the sake of their blossoms
during the following months, it
must be seen that they do not in
any way damage less hardy plants,
which they are apt to do if their
decaying parts, especially the parts
of the fading flowers, are not
sedulously removed.

Cinerarias should be kept grow-
ing. Shift them as they require,
and if they can be accommodated
in a pit, where frost can be warded
off, so much the better, until they
are nearly in bloom. If not,
they must be put on the front
shelves in the greenhouse, near
the glass.

Fuchsias in pots will now be
getting out of bloom. They may
stand exposed to the weather as
long as frost keeps off, and even
afterwards throughout the day-
time, though protected at night.
In this way they will become well
ripened in the wood, which will
throw off the leaves, and continue
bare through the winter.

Geraniums continue growing all
the winter. If they are wanted
for very early blooming the shoots
must not be again topped; but if
they are to form good bushy
plants to flower at the ordinary
season, the young shoots must all
be topped as soon as they have
grown about a couple of inches

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR

OCTOBER.

in length, and this must be con-
tinued for two or three months to
come.

Insects. — As soon as the plants
are all housed and arranged for
the winter the house should be
well fumigated, to destroy what-
ever insects may be lodged among
the plants. Choose a dull cloudy
day or night for this fumigation,
and have it done twice on succeed-
ing days, in order that it may be
effectual. After this the plants
must be well washed with the
syringe or engine, and the extra
dampness thus produced carried
off by opening the house as much
as possible the next mild day,
aiding the evaporation, if neces-
sary, by a gentle fire in conjunction
with the ventilation.

Many persons find that there is
a disagreeable green tint comes
on the top of the soil on their
potted plants in the houses, and
this is generally the fault of the
water they use. When this is the
case they had better make an
alteration. Rain water is always
the best under any circumstances.
Every reasonable expense should
be cheerfully incurred to save all
that can be caught, and none
other should be used while a drop
is to be had. In greenhonses and
hothouses all the water from the
roof should be caught and brought
‘Inside, that it may be always of
‘the same temperature.

365

NOVEMBER.

———,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

Alterations.— Remember every
|day you protract any proposed
alterations, or the making of ad-
‘ditions, you run the risk of being
foiled by the frost; for, when that
once sets in, all work of any conse-
quence is stopped until it goes
again. Planting of deciduous trees
and shrubs should be persevered
in till done. Evergreens may be
planted out, but will take no harm
for a while. All the trenching,
digging, making roads and walks,
aud planting ornamental timber
may go on with all reasonable
speed, for any fine day lost is
irrecoverable, especially if un-
favourable weather should after-
wards set in. Wet is as bad as
frost, and often does more mischief.

Anemones may be planted in
beds or patches, three inches deep,
and six in asmall patch, to remain
there, or six inches apart all over
the bed or border; and let the
earth be bruised well that covers
them.

Auriculas.—Take off the dead
leaves, keep the frames clean in-
side, and give no more water than
is necessary. Let them have all
the air they can on mild dry days,
but when there is any fall of wet
let the glasses be propped, so as
to keep off the rain.

Box Edgings —The whole art of

laying down a Box edging well
consists in forming the ridge,
against which it is to be planted,
true, level, and hard; and in cut-
ting the Box into small shreds,
not only that a little may go a long
way, but that it may be weak
enough to obey the pressure of a
little earth to keep it home in its
place. We have seen Box dibbled
in, and there are works which re-
commend it; but there is no way
so true, and in all respects perfect,
as to form your bed, border, clump,
or whateyer else you choose to edge
with Box, the exact figure you want
it, by hard treading it on the edge,
and putting the soil on until it is
quite level, and trodden hard ; then
cut the soil away from the front,
or pit side of it, in a sloping direc-
tion, exactly the form you require.
The top being level, and the sloping
front cut even and ready, put small
bits of Box close by the side of each
other, so that there is no vacancy
between them, nor any lapping over
each other, pressing the loose earth
in front as you go on, to bank the
Box into its place, which is with
the green half an inch above the
top of the soil; while the patch is
afterwards gravelled, so that the
gravel comes up on the path side
exactly as high as the soil on the
other. In digging the beds after-

566

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

wards the gardener must cut|taken up with them, they make

sloping away from the Box, lest he
should damage the plantation of
Box, and loosen the roots.

Carnations and Picotees.—The
health and vigour of these plants
depend mainly upon their being
kept dry and codl through the
winter; not that they must abso-
lutely want water and not have it,
but that it should not be given
them a day sooner than they want
it. Pick off any yellow leaves, and
keep the frame clear of weeds and
dead leaves, or decaying matter of
any kind.

Chrysanthemums in bloom out of
doors should have their dead and
decaying blooms cut off at once,
and the best ones be left to come
forward still. In sheltered places
on walls, and frequently in the
open gardens, this family of flowers
forms a bright spot in the dreary
autumn.

Crocuses, and many other of the
smaller bulbs, if not already planted
last month, as we directed, should
be planted this, and according to
the advice given already.

Evergreen and Deciduous Shrubs.
—All the layers and suckers should
be taken up and cut off, to be
planted in nursery-beds or else-
where, according to your wants.
Lay down any branches that are
low enough, and can be spared:
they only require to have a longish
slit, cut not quite half way through,
and the under part of the branch ;
bend this down into the ground,
and peg it there an inch or two
under the surface. These will be
young plauts fit to take off the next
autumn. All evergreen and deci-
duous shrubs will thus form new
plants; many, however, throw up
suckers—that is to say, branches
from their roots—and if these are
dug down to, and part of the root

plants at once. Many seeds of
deciduous plants may be now
gathered, and cuttings of all kinds
may be taken, though many think
the spring quite as good. If there
be any straggling branches of the
shrubs that can be improved by
shortening, do not be afraid of the
knife, though care should be taken
to spare those branches which show
bloom-buds until after the flowering
time.

Hardy Climbers may at once be
pruned and trained. No general
rule for pruning can be given, as
the habit of each particular plant
must determine the actual opera-
tion; but generally prune rather
hard, especially in the case of all
plants that blossom on the young
or current season's growth. Hardy
climbers are too often neglected
in this respect, and become masses
of confusion. If the plant produces
its blossoms from the one-year-old
wood, be careful to retain a supply
of the best ripened young shoots
all over the plant. In training
use small shreds and few nails;
but the shreds must not tightly
girt the shoots. The shreds are
made of narrow strips of cloth,
ent into lengths proper for the
different sizes of the branches.
The pruning of the less hardy
sorts must be deferred until the
spring.

Herbaceous plants generally may
be parted, if not parted last month,
and either placed in the borders or
in nursery-beds.

Hyacinths in Beds.—There is
nothing more striking and beauti-
ful than a well-arranged Hyacinth
bed. The colours are various:
light and dark blue, light and dark
red, white and yellow. Let the
arrangement be so that you do not
have two of a colour, nor even two

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

_ of ashade close together. Single
and dwarf kinds make the best
general bed, and those who have
geometrical beds may so contrive
them as to have flowers two months
before the usual period by depend-
ing on bulbs. Hyacinths, in these
beds, must be all of a shade in the
same bed; but, if you want effect,
you may have the lightest of the
reds inwards, the darker ones
further out, and the darkest
furthest. The same with the
blues: there are several shades,
and admirably calculated for effect.
These, planted in their beds nine
inches apart, would leave room
between for anything else to follow,
and the Hyacinth bulbs might, on
their removal, make room for the
third succession of some kind. For
instance, Tulips may be planted
between the Hyacinths, and the
Hyacinths taken up while the
Tulips are in flower may make
room for potted Stocks, or potted
Nemophila, or for plants of Ver-
bena, which will flower by the time
the Tulips are off, and so keep
up the bloom of the parterre.
Hyacinths in single long beds must
be arranged so as that no two of a
colour come together.
Newly-planted trees and shrubs,
especially if at all tender, should
be. muiched ; that is, the surface
of the soil, to the extent occupied
by the roots, and up to the stem,
should be covered by a material
which will keep frost from pene-
trating the soil, and thus favour
the growth of the recently-dis-
turbed roots. What the covering
is is not material; such as littery
straw, moss, peas haulm, or even
sawdust and ashes may be used.
It is very important, also, that
newly-planted trees should be
staked, so as to prevent their
being moved to and fro by the wind.

367

Pansies in beds are apt to be
disturbed by frosts and thaws;
the changes expand the earth, and
frequently bare the roots of small
plants. To prevent this you may
be at the trouble of covering with
mats or litter in frost, and keep-
ing them uncovered in mild
weather; but, unless they are
very choice, few take the pains, as
they are by no means a tender
plant. But they must be set to
rights at every thaw, and fixed
firmly.

Pinks in their beds are apt to
be disturbed by worms, cats,
frosts, and thaws: they must be
examined occasionally until they
are very strongly rooted in the
ground, and, where any are dis-
turbed, they must be pressed into
their places, with the earth close
about them; and clear them of
weeds while weeds are small.

Ranunculuses may be planted
six inches apart in good earth,
well worked, but not mixed with
dung recently. A good layer of
rotten cowdung may be placed in
the bed at a foot deep, but tlie
earth in which the tubers are
placed should be loam from rotted
turves, or clean loam from a pas-
ture one part, and leaf-mould one
part, which is about an equiva-
lent: any well-worked earth from
a kitchen garden will be well
adapted. The easiest way to plant
these autumn-made beds is to
draw drills the length of the bed,
three inches deep and six inches
apart. You may then place in the
tubers with a slight pressure, six
inches apart in the rows. Others
draw the drills across the bed six
inches apart; but the easiest is
lengthways, and it can make no
difference unless people desire to
grow a row of a sort, when it is
better to cross the bed, because

368

the sorts are seen distinctly when
one sort crosses the bed. This
does not allude to the fine sorts,
which are planted in February,
but to the surplus stock required
to increase well, and to give early
flowers. The fine sorts are not
fit to be risked in the ground
through the winter.

Shrubberies may be dug now
where this plan is practised; but
it should only be done in mixed
borders, where flowers are planted.
The continued digging ‘of the soil
destroys the surface roots, greatly
to the detriment of the plants.
Clumps entirely occupied by shrubs
should show,no cut edge of raw
earth: if they are on grass the
grass should grow quite under
them; and if they are surrounded
by gravel this should be continued
beneath their branches.

The Beds and Borders may be
dressed out now with dwarf ever-
greens in pots, which should be
plunged below their rims. Make
a diversity of them, and in the
geometrical garden there is great
room for taste. ‘The variety of
foliage is immense, and the smaller
the plants the better the effect,
so that there be enough. Hollies
of varied hues, Cedars, Arbor-
vite, Yews, Berberis, Boxes, varied
and green, Alaternus, striped and
plain, and fifty other handsome-
growing shrubs, which do well in
pots, are adapted for this autumn
dressing.

The Tulip.—The most important
flower that engages the attention
of the florist this month is the
Tulip. The second week is the
latest for planting if we have our
choice; and the arrangement of
the bulbs for planting is made
in boxes which represent the rows
on the bed. Tulips are planted

in four-feet-wide beds, six inches |

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

apart every way; and this gives
us seven across the bed. The
beds, therefore, among common
observers, may be said to con-
sist of seven rows of whatever
length the bed may be; but the
custom is to call the seven which
go across the rows; and then the
bed is said to consist of so many
rows. Thus a bed _ twenty-tive
feet long should contain fifty rows.
The proper manner of arranging
the flowers, in these rows of seven,
is to have three pairs of flowers,
and a centre odd one; and Tulips
whose natural growth give four
different heights are used. Those
are called first-row flowers which
are the most dwarf, and mean out-
side-row fluwers, such as the first
and seventh; second-row flowers
are those something taller, and
mean second and sixth; third-row
flowers are taller still, and are
used for the third and fifth rows;
and middle, or fourth-row flowers,
which are the tallest, are used
in the centre. But of all these
first, second, third, and fourth-row
flowers there are three distinct
classes, called Roses, Byblomens,
and Bizarres. The first have white
grounds, with red marks of all
shades, from crimson and scarlet
to pale rose or pink; the second
have white grounds, with purple
marks, from deep’ purple, almost
black, to light lilae or lavender ;
the third have yellow grounds,
with any coloured marks, from
nearly black to brown orred. In
arranging the flowers, therefore,
we should not only have pairs of
the same class opposite each other
on the two sides of the centre, but
we should have the same flowers—
that is, the same varieties— on both
sides. One of the oldest rules for
planting Tulips was to prevent
two of a class coming together in

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

a row; therefore the arrangement
was thus :—

Ro. Byb. Biz. Ro. Byb. Biz. Ro.
Byb. Biz. Ro. Byb. Biz. Ro. Byb.
Biz. Ro. Byb. Biz. Ro. Byb. Biz.

and so changing from left to right,
or right to left, as they pleased,
to go through all the bed. Our
only objection to this was, that it
wanted uniformity. It is true
that no two of a class come to-
gether all through the bed; but it
is equally true that if you stand at
the end you observe that you
have a Byblomen on one side next
the middle flower, and a Bizarre on
the other; and thus it runs all
through the bed. Our mode of
arranging is to have everything
uniform : if the first is a Rose, the
seventh must be; if the second is
a Bizarre, the sixth must be; and
if the third is a Byblomen, the fifth
should be also, The difference in
the arrangement would be thus :—

Ro. Byb. Biz. Ro. Biz. Byb. Ro.
Byb. Biz. Ro. Byb. Ro. Biz. Byb.
Biz. Ro. Byb. Biz. Byb. Ro. Biz.

But those who can afford it, and
take great pains with their beds,
should go further than this, and
have all the flowers paired as to
variety, as well as to class; that
is, suppose there is Louis XVI.
in the centre, the Rose on each
side might be Clarendon; the
next to that, on each side, should
be Polyphemus; and the By-
blomen, on the outsides, Reine de
Sheba, or any other named flower
of a proper class you please, but
both alike, so that all flowers
should be grown in duplicate. In
forming a bed of Tulips, therefore,
you should buy an equal number
of first, second, and third -row
Roses, Byblomens, and Bizarres,
and half the number of middle-row
Roses, Byblomens, and Bizarres.

069

For instance, say you want a bed
of sixty rows, or thirty feet, which
is a very pretty and effective
length, you must in that case
have twenty each of middle-row
Roses, Byblomens, and Bizarres,
and forty each of each of the other
heights, or rows; because, when
grown in duplicate, there are two
of each to one in the middle.
The boxes or drawers in which
Tulips are arranged for plant-
ing have seven partitions one
way, and no matter what length
the other; but they are gene-
rally made to hold eight or ten
rows. The roots are arranged in
these drawers, which are num-
bered 1, 2, 3, outside, according
to the number of rows. When
you plant, lower the soil on the
bed to three inches lower than
you intend it to be when finished ;
level it, and draw the seven lines
one way six inches apart, and
the cross lines the other six inches
apart, by means of stretching a
line lengthways quite tight, and
pressing it into the soil with the
back of the rake, so as to make a
mark; but the cross lines may be
made with a straight piece of
wood long enough to reach across
pressed into the soil. Where
these lines cross place the Tulips,
gently pressing them half their
bulk below the surface; then put
on the three inches of soil. The
bed thus planted will need no
further attention. Keep the outer
Tulip beds clear of weeds.

Turf may be laid to form lawns
or verges while the weather con-
tinues mild. It cannot be done
in frosty weather, neither should
the roots (which are towards the
outside of the turf as they are
rolled up for removal) be exposed
to frost, nor too long to drying
winds,

- 2B

370

THE ROSE GARDEN.

Planting of Rosaries comes on
now; and let us recommend those
who pretend to have a Rose gar-
den to preserve some form and
general plan—to make something
like a design, and not content
themselves with merely putting a
Rose here and a Rose there. If
they can do nothing better let
them form a bank of Roses each
side their single walk, by putting
in dwarfs in front, two-feet Roses
behind, and three-feet or four-feet
Roses behind them. This is an
elegant way of forming a Rose
garden, without any pretension
to novelty, and with every regard
to effect. The front, or dwarf
Roses, must be picked for their
slow growth, because many of the
freely-growing Roses would ramble
about in all directions, and climb
about anything. The Dwarf Crim-
son, and others of that habit, are
proper for the front row within a
foot of the edge. The Standards
can be had of any height, but re-
gard must also be had to the
habit of the Rose, which would be
equally out of place if of a ram-
bling kind. Those who supply
will always give the proper kinds
if you tell them what they are for.
The climbing Roses must be well
fastened, and a good deal of the
loose and superfluous branches cut
away, if not already done. Look
well after the last month’s direc-
tions, and attend to all that has
not yet been done. Indeed, if the
last month’s affairs were well
brought up, there would be little
to do; but a good deal of plant-
ing is necessarily left for Novem-
ber, from the difficulty of getting
all the plants that are required in
October. Some are hardly ripe
enough to move in October, others
are in great demand; but the

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

sooner they are procured and
planted the better, when once the
leaf falls, or the tree is inclined to
rest.

Tender Roses.—Where the ten-
der sorts, such as the Chinas,
Tea-scented, Bourbons, &c., have
not been protected, it should be
attended to before severe cold sets
in. The roots should be mulched,
and the branches shielded by
some such open material as dried
fern or peas haulm. Rough wicker
baskets are sometimes used for
this purpose, and they answer well
as a covering for the branches:
they are set over the plant during
the period when protection is ne-
cessary. One great advantage
attending them is, that they are
easily removed and replaced.

THE GREENHOUSE.

The further we get into the
winter, the more cautious we
ought to be of watering, and the
more air we should give when the
weather will permit it. Preserve
everything from damp and dirt.
Keep the shelves clear of dead
leaves, and every now and then
brush out all the corners, to get
rid of the vermin and their eggs.

Calceolarias.—The young plants
require to be growing all the winter,
and must therefore be kept regu-
larly watered, and placed beyond
the influences of frost. It is not
desirable to repot at this season.

Camellias will begin even at this
period to open a few straggling
flowers, or rather, straggling plants
among the collection will occasion-
ally bloom. When the branch on
which the flower happens to be
can be spared, let it be cut off with
the bloom on it if wanted, or, if
preferred in the house, let it come
off directly the bloom has decayed.
Many plants which could have been

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR NOVEMBER,

advantageously pruned are allowed
to remain, while, if there be a
flower-bud on the shoot that should
come off, it is such as those that
we allude to.

Cinerarias.—The larger plants—
or at least the earliest ones —
should have had their final shift
for blooming. All that remains is
to keep them in the full light, and
as far as possible free from in-
sects, which in a few days accu-
mulate vastly if at the first neg-
lected. When the blooms have
nearly reached the period of ex-
pansion it is a good plan to give
a little manure water, which may
be made from soot, mixing the in-
gredients thoroughly, and applying
only the clear liquid after the sub-
sidence of the solid matter.

Fire Heat.—Great care must be
taken to keep’ frost out; but it is
better when it can be done by
covering up close than when it
wants fire heat. In hard weather
there must be a fire occasionally,
and so also in long wet weather,
for the house gets damp, in which
ease light the fires, and when the
glass gets up a few degrees open
the top lights to let out the damp.
A few hours’ firing dries the place,
and does everything good; but heat
and damp draw the plants toomuch.

Under the frames of the green-
house, or rather the stage, is an ex-
cellent preserve for almost every-
thing that wants protection from
the frost; but there is an objec-
tion to the drip which comes from
watering the pots. A piece of
waterproof calico thrown over them
throws off the wet, and forms one
of the best means of protecting
Dahlias, various tubers not quite
hardy, plants that are dormant,
such as Dahlias in pots, and many
other things.

Frames.—At this season the cold

S71

frames and pits employed for the
protection of half- hardy plants,
and for sheltering such of the
alpines and perennials as need
protection, require to be carefully
watched, in order to guard against
damp—the most insidious enemy
of such plants — and to which,
owing to the dampness of our
climate, they are greatly exposed.
The lights must be kept off during
all fine weather, and in dry weather,
even though it may be rather cold,
provided there is not a keen and
nipping air. Even under such cir-
cumstances the frames must not
be closed entirely, nor in wet or
damp weather, but must be tilted
up more or less to admit of a
change of air, the lights being,
however, never opened against the
wind. The difficulty of admitting
as much air as is requisite, under
such circumstances, has led to the
provision of ventilators in the back
and front walls of frames and pits, .
and these are exceedingly useful
contrivances. “A thorough airing
can be given without so opening
them as to admit rain or keen
winds. The ventilators are best
made in the form of small wooden
slides. Of equal importance to
plants of the half-hardy class is
the provision of a dry bottom, and
the avoiding of spilling any water
within the frames during the pro-
cess of watering. A damp bottom
leads to dampness of the atmo-
sphere, and confined dampness of
the atmosphere is just what is so
fatal to tender plants. Hence the
advantage of elevating the plants
on an open platform above the
floor, and of providing ventilators
to secure a current of air when
requisite beneath this platform.
The plants themselves require to
be frequently picked over, to re-
move all dead or decaying leaves,

372

&c., and to see that the soil con-
tinues in an open healthy state—
not water logged, nor moss-bound.
Whenever any of the plants start
into vigorous growth, as_ they
sometimes will do, and produce
branches which are liable to get
straggly and out of order, such
branches should be topped, and
the whole treatment should be
directed to maintain the plants
stocky, sturdy, and hardy through
the winter months.

Geraniums are growing fast. If
any of the branches are shooting
too freely pinch off the ends, and in
all cases regulate their shape a
little by checking them where they
are going out of form.

New Holland Plants—AIl the
hard- wooded plants which are
growing must be well examined,
to see that their drainage is clear,
and .their soil moderately moist.
Water seldom, but effectively, and
when they have been all watered
shut them up from the air.

Primula Sinensis, Chinese Prim-
roses.—The plants of this family
are now becoming gay, seedlings
are beginning to bloom, and even

CALENDAR OF

OPERATIONS FOR NOVEMBER.

common things are permitted to
remain in the house, because they
are flowers at a time when other
flowers are scarce; but they may
not be of sufficient merit to be
worth keeping after they have
done. The choice florist will,
however, preserve none but good
single ones, and propagate them.
A stock from choice well-grown
kinds is very interesting, and the
double ones are really beautiful
objects. These must have plenty
of water as they bloom, for they
absorb a good deal; but want of
free draining soon settles them,
and they rot and die almost before
itis discovered. It is a common
thing to see these in forty-eight
sized pots; but they can be grown
in one season from seed large
enough to fairly occupy a size
twenty-four, or even sixteen.

Water.—Never depend on tanks
for rain water under the surface to
water plants with, unless it has
stood long enough to get the tem-
perature of the house. It chills
and does mischief much sooner
than is expected, and should always
be avoided if possible.

‘

3

DECEMBER.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN, SHRUBBERY, AND GREENHOUSE.

Now we arrive at a period when
all directions must be conditional.
It is in this country as likely to be
wet and warm as frosty and snowy,
and, which is far more important,
to change from one to the other
in a few hours. It is necessary,
therefore, to make preparations for
protecting by some means all that
will not bear such great changes,
and never to trust a single night
to the mild weather continuing.
Frequently do we have four-and-
twenty hours’ frost, and a total
change to warm, close, damp
weather for days; and vice versd,
from warm to frost. Thesechanges
injure even hardy things, and al-
ways disturb small plants, whe-
ther it be Pinks, Pansies, Carna-
tions, Picotees, small Polyanthuses,
or Primroses; in short, nothing
small, however hardy, is secure
from being uprooted by the con-
traction and expansion of the
soil, which inevitably accompany
these changes. We have simply,
therefore, to make up our minds
whether all these things shall take
their chance or we intend to pre-
vent it. In the latter case we
must have hoops and mats, litter,
cloth, or some other material to
cover them with; in the other,
the ground looks neater, for we do
not require to have anything ly-

ing about for the purpose: we
will, however, touch upon various
modes of protection. First, then,
we will mention—

Dry Litter.—Peas haulm is the
very best of these if well harvested
and hardened. It lies much
lighter, and endures the wet much
longer than any other kind of lit-
ter, so that really good peas
haulm will endure three months
of wet and changeable weather
without becoming close or soft
and rotten, but it should always
be spread lightly to dry when the
weather permits. This should lie
all ready between the beds, and
be every night spread upon the
beds to be protected, and in frost
it must not be removed. There
should be a sufficient quantity to
lie four inches thick on the bed
to keep out frost; less than this
would not be effective. Straw is
the next best, perhaps, but it
should be broken so as to lhe
rather light and loose, and not be
used in its straight length, for it
would lie too heavy. Tares, hay,
and even the long litter of dung
are used, but we prefer the first to
anything.

Hoops and Mats.—If beds are to
be protected with mats it is requi-
site to place hoops across the bed,
or bent sticks of some kind from

374

side to side, arched over as low as
practicable to be clear of the plants
—say three feet apart from end to
end; then tie a straight lath or
rod along the tops of the hoops,
and one or two, lengths on each
side. This prevents the mats from
falling iarough, and allows of our
throwing them over quickly. Of
course the hoops are continued
there, but the mats removed every
morning except in frost, and some-
times in cold dry winds, which are
nearly as destructive. If the frost
be kept completely out, all the
young plants get on wonderfully,
as compared with those that en-
dure the changes.

Transparent Cloth.—This is far
superior to matting, inasmuch as
the plants never suffer for want of
light; and the benefit of this is
chiefly felt when a continuance of
frost prevents us from removing
the covering for a week, some-
times at the end of which time, if
under mats or any other dark
covering, the plants will have
turned yellow, and drawn very
much. In pots and frames, which
are sometimes not uncovered for
weeks, it is of the highest conse-
quence to have light transparent
waterproof cloth instead of mats ;
and the plants under cloth scarcely
look the worse for a month’s con-
finement, whereas if dark they
would turn completely yellow and
weakly, and scarcely recover the
effects for months. There are
various devices for protecting
single plants: the best perhaps
that we know of are the

Wicker and Basket Protectors.—
These may be made of various
forms. The smaller ones are in the
form of a bee-hive, and are merely
lifted on and off; larger ones are
made in two halves, so that they
may be put together sideways, and

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR DECEMBER.

fastened with hooks and eyes to
each other. The material of which
they are made depends on the
quantity of protection required.
There are many shrubs, the Mag-
nolias for instance, which are all
but hardy when once fairly esta-
blished, but which, while young,
cannot stand a very hard frost:
these ought to be protected until
they are seven years established
in the place where they are to re-
main. By having the protectors
made in two parts, which have to
be applied sideways, and join
evenly, they may be made of any
size, and are by no means difficult
to put together, nor are they very
unwieldy, even if of larger dimen-
sions. Six feet high and four feet
through would not be inconyeni-
ent to handle, and there are
many shrubs which, if protected
up to that height, would require it
no longer. Rhododendrons would
require them shorter and wider,
but they should only be open
wicker, like a fowl-basket, because
they should be open in mild
weather, and such protectors well
made would not be unsightly. The
mats or cloths need only be thrown
over them at nights and on frosty
days. The Araucarias, that will
stand when once well established,
are frequently injured so much in
their young days as to scarcely re-
cover at all to become handsome;
these, therefore, especially want
protection for the first few years.
Wall Protectors. — Many half-
hardy climbers require protection.
If mats are placed, that is, hung
against the wall, they will do very
well for deciduous plants, but for
evergreens the material should be
impervious to wet, and _ trans-
parent, to admit light, otherwise
the foliage would be damaged; it
should also be closed at the top,

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR DECEMBER. e

bottom, and sides, however loose
it may be in the middle.

Other Means of Protection.—The
most complete of all is glass in
various forms, from the common
hand-glass—to take off and put on
as the changes of weather or the
approach of night or morning dic-
tate—to the porous pots, green-
houses, and conservatories on the
largest scale, in which artificial
climates can be comnxanded at
pleasure, because glass excludes
no light, and keeps in the natural
warmth of the earth it covers;
at least, it prevents the escape of
the natural warmth except by slow
degrees, and if the glass be covered
during the hard frost it is still
more preserved. For all green-
house plants it is desirable to
avoid the necessity of making
fires, if possible, by covering, to
keep in the natural warmth, or, as
some people describe it, to keep
out the cold, instead of having to
use artificial heat. The month of
December calls upon us for the
greatest caution, as the frost is
beyond measure treacherous. We
may have the garden at sunset
wet, close, and fifteen degrees
above frost, and in a short space
of time find the open air five de-
grees below it. Now, this is trying
even to many hardy things, for the
changes are too rapid. This, how-
ever, dictates to us the necessity of
always leaving the garden safe—
the litter laid where it is required,
the glasses all in their respective
places. Precautions against frost
should be taken every night as if
it were certain before morning.

Uncovering protected Plants.—
In mild weather give everything
the benefit of the air and sun.
Uncover at daybreak, that they
may lose no daylight.

The routine business of the gar-

den for the four months of No-
vember, December, January, and
February is utterly dependent on
the weather, but the same in simi-
Jar weather all through. It is
impossible to give direct instruc-
tions, because it is possible that
the frost may defeat us in any one
or more of them in all our inten-
tions. All the duties of the four
months might be comprised in two
words—cleanliness and protection ;
but there are certain things con-
tinued through all mild weather,
and other certain things necessary
in all frosty weather. We are
writing of out-of-door business.
Keep clear of weeds and vermin ;
dig the ground again as you clear
off the decayed flowers; turn out
the earth of the flower-beds to
sweeten, and frequently turn it
over, but especially when it is
frozen on the surface. A few par-
ticular classes of flowers may be
in want of some management.
Annuals that were sown in the
autumn for early flowering in the
spring, or such as have sprung
up self-sown in the beds or bor-
ders, where they can be retained
in patches for the sake of their
earliness, are the better for some
degree of protection in very severe
weather. With all such plants it
is, moreover, very important to
attend to thinning in due time, so
that the plants may grow sturdy
and strong, and not be drawn
up spindly and weak from being
overcrowded, which renders them
much more susceptible of frost
than when they make their growth
after being properly thinned. This
thinning is required as early in
autumn as the plants become at
all thick on the ground, so that
they may have the advantage of
exposure to all the sun and light
which are at that season available.

376

It is these patches, thus thinned
out, that we recommend to be
protected ; and the best means of
sheltering them is to stick into the
ground about them small pieces
of such open spray as spruce-fir
branches, or the fronds of the
common bracken, cut in summer
and dried in readiness: two or
three of these pieces, a foot or so
in height, placed about a patch of
annuals, afford a great amount of
protection, and, if not put too close
about them, keep off the light but
very little, and do not at all ob-
struct the circulation of air. The
ground about such tender subjects
should be frequently hoed in win-
ter, this being done in intervals
of dry weather; it helps to keep
the soil open and porous about
the plants, so that they are less
affected by the rains. Wet, it
should be remembered, is the chief
enemy of the autumn-sown an-
nuals, a great many of which will
keep in good health during winter,
if they can be kept moderately
dry.

Annuals in Pots.—Those who are
very anxious for an early spring
display of blossoms generally take
some pains to preserve a few au-
tumn-sown annuals in pots, either
sowing for the purpose, or taking
up from the borders some of those
which are self-sown. They should
be planted two, three, or more, in
a sixty-sized pot, and the pots
should be placed in a frame. It
is important, at this season, to be
very cautious in the application of
water: the soil must be thoroughly
wetted when they require it, but
no water should be spilled on the
leaves, nor poured carelessly among
the pots. All rain should be ex-
eluded by keeping the glass sashes
over the plants, tilting them up at
the back so as to admit air, and

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR DECEMBER.

at the same time assist to throw
off the water, which is impeded
when, as is sometimes the case,
the lights are tilted back and front
alternately, for the sake of pro-
ducing a draught of air: it is bet-
ter during rain to tilt only at the
back. In all dry weather such
plants must be quite exposed.
Keep them as dry as_ possible,
short of allowing them to droop,
and as aity as possible consistent °
with dryness.

Auriculas—In any dry weather
short of frost give all the air you
can by taking the lights off, but
be quite certain about the tem-
perature, because, although they
will stand a good hard frost with-
out any apparent injury, the bloom
will get checked by a frost, if not
provided against.

Bulbs in general are grossly
mismanaged, and nobody very
clearly understands why. Look,
however, at the geometrical gar-
dens of England, and although
bulbs would keep them in flower
all the year, or best part of it,
no one sets an example that can
be elsewhere followed. They
may be dear as compared with
some things; but when they can
be taken. up at any season that
they are not growing, there can-
not be a question that there are
many who spend much more
money with less than half the true
value being attached to their pur-
chases, and that our gardens would
be greatly assisted in the supply
of beauty by a timely addition of
something worth notice in the
shape of bulbs.

Dahlias.—Occasionally examine
the tubers, and if there be any
very scarce one which is likely to
be wanted in great quantity pot it
at once; also pot any that seem
inclined to shrivel or rot, and keep

them in the greenhouse or pit
free from frost.

Gravel Walks.—When the gravel
-is soft and spongy get two sieves,
-one that will not let a horse-bean
\ through, and the other somewhat
‘larger, that will take away any
“but one size bigger. Gravel thus
‘cleared of the large and of the
small should be laid on, and rolled
in every time any wet comes, until
the surface is as sound as a stone.

Hyacinths.—The propagation of

Hyacinths in Holland is hastened
by cutting the bulb in half hori-
zontally, and offsets are developed
in great plenty. All the top halves
of the leaves being gone, and the

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR

| dry as snuff.

bloom destroyed, the whole vigour |

of the root goes to multiply the
offsets, of which there is one at
the base of every leaf, though it
is often dormant until excited by
driving all the nourishment to it.
When a cut Hyacinth of this de-
scription is taken up there are
generally some very fine offsets,
and the larger of these are mostly
ready in another season.

Pansies, Pinks, Picotees, and
Carnations in pots, under glass,
must be kept moderately dry—we
speak of those in store pots. The
Pansies in larger blooming pots
should be put in frames by them-

selves, that they may be kept

growing, as the object is the pre-
servation of early blooms, and
they must not have a check.

Tulips, and all other flowers in
beds, unless perfectly hardy, must
be protected with hoops and mats,
or litter of some kind, as the
ground once frozen to the bulb
damages the flower, although it
may not destroy it.

THE ROSE GARDEN.

DECEMBER.

done this month, except that, as
those instructions comprised plant-
ing, removing, and making Roses
a feature, a few words to impress
the leading objects on the mind
will not be out of place. Great

| pains are taken to produce strong
| growth, and certainly, if size is to

govern, the flowers come the more
noble for the’ increased vigour of
the plant; but it is quite certain
that in the natural state the brier
grows on very questionable soil,
and we have frequently seen them
dug out of that which seemed ex-
hausted by the roots of thorn or
other hedge plants, and was as
Again, we have seen
them budded while growing wild,
with a view of removing them
after the bud was safe, and the
growth was as vigorous as could
be wished; but these Roses suf-
fered much on their ultimate re-
moval, and perfectly convinced the
experimentalist that it was a great
loss of time. The fact is that
the roots of the brier seek food
at a very considerable distance
from the trunk of the tree, and it
is impossible to avoid losing a
good deal; therefore it is neces-
sary, in procuring the briers, to
prune the roots within a moderate
compass, and to thin off all the
branches, so that the briers be-
come so many upright sticks.
These planted in good ground re-
cover their roots, because the
growth of the stock is limited to

_two or three single branches to

bud on, and by midsummer, or a

| little after, they will have advanced

far enough to bud on. This done,
the ends of the branches are cut

_ off, and a very little growth is

allowed beyond the bud, and that
only while the bud is uniting.

Little more than following up After this the entire growth of
all previous instructions has to be the stock is thrown into the bud,

ee

378

by taking off all the other shoots
as they appear. There has been
some difference of opinion as to
the treatment of the bud when
shooting, and a question is raised,
which may as well be discussed
here as in the proper month for the
operation. The same thing has been
mooted as to fruit trees. The bud
of a Rose, if left to itself, will grow
on a single branch several feet, and
unless supported by something
would be assuredly blown out of
its place and destroyed. The
question is this—Ought the bud to
be permitted to waste itself in six
feet of wood, which has to be cut
all away; or by judiciously stop-
ping it as soon as three or four
eyes could be secured, should the
strength that would be wasted in
six feet to be cut away be dis-
persed or distributed in four or
five branches towards forming a
head? This would save nearly a
year; and the only pruning re-
quired would be to cut away the
smaller weak branches,and shorten
the others to two eyes each. But
the generality of nurserymen al-
low the single eye to grow as long
as it will, and we have seen them
at Mr. Rivers’s, of Sawbridge-
worth, with six or seven feet of
sound ripened wood grown from
an eye in one season. This cut
back to a certain number of eyes
makes as many branches the se-
cond year; but it has been ascer-
tained that a more commanding
head can be formed, and if left
unpruned the second season the
same number of branches will con-
tinue their growth, and the shorten-
ing may be left till the next sea-
son. When the growth is very
strong, which is indicated by the
first six inches of a shoot, it may
be safely checked by pinching off
the end; when it is weakly let it

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR DECEMBER.

all grow. Roses in pots and
stoves, being forced, must be well
smoked and syringed, and be
changed from smaller to larger
pots, according as they fill the pots
with roots.

THE GREENHOUSE.

The deeper we get into winter
the more care do we require in
the greenhouse. The sole atten-
tion should be devoted to keeping
out wet and frost. Dampness is
very fatal if not removed in good
time. To prevent dampness all
dead and yellowish leaves should
be removed, not only from the
plants, but also from the shelves
and floor: every part of the house
must be kept very clean and dry.
Cuttings of all the kinds of plants
may be taken off and struck, and
such as are struck should be potted
singly in pots, and treated accord-
ing to their intended form.

Amaryllids may be examined,
and such as indicate growth may
be repotted, and set in a common
hotbed.

Azalea Indica.—Young plants
should be shifted from time to
time to larger pots, and seed may
be sown in pans or boxes, or wide-
mouthed pots, and placed in the
greenhouse.

Bedding-out plants whether kept
in pits or in the greenhouse,
may be put out singly in pots as
soon as they strike; and when
once established they need have
but little water through the winter.
The less growth they make the
better; but if they take to grow-
ing, remove the tops to strike,
so that you double the number of
your plants, and improve the ori-
ginal ones by inducing dwarfness
and a bushy habit.

Calceolarias require to be care-
fully kept from the frost, and at

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR DECEMBER.

the same time should have all the

379

Cinerarias.— These must have

air possible to prevent their be-; plenty of room—fine foliage can-

coming drawn. Be careful in
watering not to wet the foliage
nor unnecessarily spill the water
about the plants; and let it be
done in the early part of the day.
These attentions are the more
necessary in frosty weather than
in mild weather, but it is best at
this season to be ever on the
guard: and they apply as much to
all other greenhouse subjects of
free habit that are growing more or
less at this season, as Cinerarias,
Geraniums, &c.

Camellia Japonica. —Take cut-
tings of the single kinds to strike,
and form stocks at any time in
this and the next month, so long
as they have not stinted their
growth. Every cutting should
have two eyes, one below and one
above ground: they will strike
with bottom heat without diffi-
culty, though many persons take
the pains to have half an inch of
sand on the top of the ordinary
soil, and let the cuttings go
through the sand and touch the

soil.

Chinese Primroses.—These are
rising for bloom, and form a pretty
object at this time of the year,
when flowers are more than scarce,
for it is difficult to produce much
variety at Christmas.

Chrysanthemums as they go out
of flower should be cut down, but
not too close, and the suckers
thinned if they are much crowded ;
and the pots may then be set close
at the foot of a wall, where they
will get little water and some
shelter, until they are wanted for
propagation in early spring. By
no means keep them in frames: if
the weather becomes very severe,
protect the pots with a little loose
open litter.

not be retained if the plants stand
crowded. Neither must they be
suffered to become pot-bound, but
should be shifted when they re-
quire it, without reference to the
season. For winter and early
spring blooming there are no
plants more valuable than those
in a greenhouse; but plants ad-
vancing to bloom must be kept
from frost. The least frost spoils
them. If a few bright days can
be caught, any plants that are
nearly ready to open their blos-
soms may have a watering or two
of any weak, clear manure water,
which will tend to heighten and
brighten their colours amazingly.
Nothing is better for this purpose
than water in which soot has been
well stirred and allowed to settle
till it becomes quite clear.
Climbing Plants. —These require
adjusting by cutting out some of
the oldest wood and re-arranging
the young. Some climbers re-
quire to be cut down and renewed
altogether, as the plants put forth
new growth every year, and die
down when they have made their
growth perfect. Any of this kind—
such, for instance, as the Ipomezas,
some of which grow from bulbs or
strong tubers—when theyhave done
their growth for the year, may be
cut down, and the plants be placed
on shelves out of the way to rest
until they begin to grow. The
Tropeolums need not be urged;
but, as soon as they begin of them-
selves to shoot, change their pots
to clean ones of a larger size.
Cyclamens in a growing state
should be put in the full light,
and where they will get air, as
well as warmth or shelter. They
will bear a little extra heat if it
can be given them, which will

380

bring forward the blossoms more
rapidly than they would progress
in the ordinary greenhouse tempe-
rature.

Ericas.—T he Heath tribe are im-
patient of heat—that is, artificial
heat—and will for the most part
bear a little frost; but the object
should be to preserve them from
both. They cannot have too much
air in mild weather, and it is in-
finitely better to cover the glass
than to apply fire heat even in
frosty weather. On this account
pits are better than even a green-
house for the main stock. The
cuttings of Ericas may be taken
off to strike whenever the plant is
at rest; therefore at every season
of the year some are fit to strike.

Fuchsias should be kept in a
nearly dry dormant state, and in
any cool place where they will not
get much frost. A store-room, or
shed, or loft, or cellar, will do, pro-
vided these conditions are com-
plied with; they are even not very
impatient of frost—not too severe
—if they are nearly dry at the root.
Cut them close in to a stem, or
close down to the soil, before they
begin to grow, though the old
plants are better destroyed (if
not reserved for planting out) as
soon as cuttings can be got in
spring.

Geraniums may be checked the

THE

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS FOR DECEMBER.

instant there are two good joints
to a shoot; this, however, is to
depend upon the form intended for
the plant. Whenever the growth
has extended as far as it is required
in any direction, the ends may be
pinched out. Cuttings that have
been potted off, and filled their pots
with roots, should be ‘shifted to
others of a larger size, and due
regard be paid to the form they are
growing, with a view to restrain
them within proper bounds.

Insects.—The green fly, or aphis,
is very liable to increase rapidly on
free-growing greenhouse plants at
this season, and if unmolested they
soon become so numerous as to dis-
figure the plants, and do consider-
able damage. Fumigation with
tobacco smoke, or the smoke of
tobacco paper, is the best remedy.
Two or three successive mild fumi-
gations should be given, rather
than one very strong, which is apt
to do injury: syringe well after-
wards. If the smell of tobacco is
an objection, burn cascarilla for a
deodoriser.

Rhododendrons of the hybrid
kinds, and well-chosen ones of
Catawbiense, will begin to swell
their buds; but they must not be
excited with too much watering,
as they will grow into leaves and
branches, and their fiowers will
be blighted.

END.

WINCHESTER: PRINTED BY HUGH BARCLAY,

a

APRIL, 1859.

W. KENT & CO’S

(LATE DAVID BOGUE’s)

ANNUAL CATALOGUE.

—~———

The Merrie Days of England; Sketches of the Olden
_ Time. By Epwarp M‘Dermorr. Illustrated with Twenty large
Engravings from drawings by JosepH Nasu, Grorce Tuomas, Brr-
KET Foster, Epwarp CorsBovutp, etc., and ornamented with nu-
merous initial letters and tail pieces by HArry Rocrrs. Hand-
somely bound in cloth, decorated in the manner of the Eliza-
bethan periods Crown 4to, 21s. cloth gilt, or 34s. morocco elegant
or antique.

Dreamland. By Mary Exizaserra. LIlustrated by Jusste
Mactezop, and Printedin Tints by Hanhart. The list of Illustra-
tions comprises The Poet’s Dream—Youth’s Dream of Ambition—
The Exile’s Dream—Age’s Dream of the Past—Dream of the Crimi-
nal—The Conqueror’s Dream—The Merchant’s Dream—The Miser’s
Dream—The Murderer’s Dream—A Dream of Happiness—A Dream
of Plenty—A Dream of Peace—The Dream of the Brave Knight.
This book, from the very exquisite manner in which it is got up,
deserves a place on every drawing-room table. Demy 4to, richly
bound, 21s. plain; 42s. highly coloured.

The Loves of the Poets; or, Portraits of Ideal Beauty :
being a series of original Steel Engravings, drawn by the most eminent
Artists, and engraved by Mors, with Illustrative Text by Tenny-
son, Worpsworts, etc. Demy 4to, richly ornamented, 21s. plain ;
42s. coloured.

86, Fieet StREET, AND PaTERNosTER Row, Lonpon.

SO ere png nee

em ~
a TP eS eee tetra —~S

2 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

Intustrarnzp Woxrks—Continued. |

The Miller’s Daughter. By Atrrep Treyyysoy. TIllus-
trated with Seventeen Steel Engravings, drawn by A. L. Bonn, and
engraved by Mors. With a Portrait of the Author. Small 4to,
handsome cloth binding, 16s. ; morocco, 24s.

The Fables of Ausop and Others. Translated into
Human Nature, with Twenty-five humorous Illustrations by Cuartes
H. Bennetz, author of “ Shadows.” Smali 4to, ornamental boards,
6s. plain; 10s. 6d. coloured.

‘¢ A more amusing, and eke a more instructive work, it is net easy to imagine.”
Ob , 9 y s
_ Server.

Christmas with the Poets: A Collection of English
Poetry relating to the Festival of Christmas. Upwards of Fifty
Engravings from Drawings by Birxer Fosrer, and numerous
Initial Letters and Borders printed in gold. New Edition, with
additional Embellishments, super-royal 8yvo, richly bound, 21s. ;
morocco, 3ls. 6d.

Merry Pictures by Comic Hands; being a Collection
of Humorous Designs by Puiz, Crowavuitn, Doyix, Lrrecu, Mxa-
pows, Hing, ete., with Illustrative Text. Oblong folio, handsome
cover by Crowquill, 12s.

Milton’s L’ Allegro and Il Penseroso: with upwards of
Thirty Illustrations, drawn and etched by Birxer Foster. The
text printed inred. Super-royal 8yo, neatly bound, 21s. ; morocco,
31s. 6d.

‘¢ Altogether one of the handsomest and most beautiful books which has come

under our notice; it deserves a place on every drawing-room table.”—Morning
Post.

Longfellow’s Poetical Works, Ilustrated. New and
Enlarged Edition. Including ‘‘ Evangeline,’ ‘ Voices of the |
Night,” ‘Seaside and Fireside,’ “The Golden Legend,” and |
other Poems. With One Hundred and Seventy Engravings on
Wood, from Designs by Birxer Foster, Janz HK. Hay, and Joun
GitzERT. Crown 8yo, 21s. cloth; 30s. morocco.

‘“¢ Evangeline,” separately, 10s. 6d. cloth ; 163. morocco.
“Voices of the Night,” “Seaside,” &c., 15s. cloth; 21s. morocco.

Longfellow’s Golden Legend, Illustrated. A New
and Revised Edition, with numerous Alterations and Notes by the
Author. Illustrated by Brrxrer Foster, Crown 8vo, 12s. cloth;
21s. morocco.

[86, Feet STREET, AND

’ W. KENT AND CO.’8 CATALOGUE. 3

ILLUSTRATED Works—Continued. |

Longfellow’s Courtship of Miles Standish, and other
Poems. {Illustrated by Joun Axsoton, Birker Foster, and
M. 8. Morean. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. cloth gilt.

** No reader can fail to perceive how natural and charming is this Poem,’’—

Examiner.

*.* For other Editions of Longfellow’s Works see pages 9 and 10.

Bunyan’s Pilgrim's Progress. Profusely Illustrated by
Witi1aM Harvey; with Memoir by the Rev. Groner Currver,
D.D. Third Edition, crown 8yo, 12s. cloth; 18s. morocco ; large
paper, 42s. cloth; 60s. morocco.

The Christian Graces in Olden Time: A Series of

2 FP eats: Fn Green eipninangeniteretn

Female Portraits, beautifully engraved by the best Artists, with |

Poetical Illustrations by Henry Stessine, D.D. Imperial 8vo, |

21s. richly bound and gilt ; 42s. coloured.
The Heroines of Shakspeare: Forty-five Portraits of his

principal Female Characters. Engraved under the superintendence
of Mr. Cuar.es Hxartu, from Drawings by the best Artists. Im-
perial Syo, handsomely bound in morocco, 42s.; Coloured Plates,
£3 18s. 6d. Proofs before letters, on large paper, £5 5s., hand-
somely bound.

Poetry of the Year: Passages from the Poets, Descrip-
tive of the Seasons. With Twenty-two Coloured Illustrations,
from Drawings by Birxer Foster, T. Creswick, E. Duncan,
Wittram Lez, C. H. Weicarzt, H. Weir, Davip Cox, and other
eminent Artists. Imperial 8vo, large paper, 21s.

a pee PS FRG Pa cng ersten

The Cartoons of Raffaele, from Hampton Court Palace. |

Engraved by Joun Burner. With Descriptive Letterpress and
Critical Remarks. Seven large Plates (24 inehes by 34). In
wrapper, 31s. 6d.; or coloured, 63s.

The Gallery of Byron Beauties: Portraits of the
Heroines of Lord Byron’s Poems, from Drawings by the most
eminent Artists. Super-royal 8vo, morocco, 3ls. 6d.; highly
coloured, £3.

Heath’s Waverley Gallery. Portraits of the principal
Female Characters in the Writings of Scorr. Thirty-six highly-
finished Plates. Super-royal 8vo, splendidly bound in morocco,
31s. 6d.; with coloured Plates, £3.

PaTERNOSTER Row, Lonpon.]

4 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

InLtustRaTED Works—Contlinued, }

Gallery of the Graces; or, Beauties of British Poets.
Thirty-six beautiful Female Heads by Lanpszrr, Boxatt, F.
Sronr, &c., illustrating Tennyson, Campbell, Rogers, Landon,
&c. Super-royal 8yo, 31s, 6d. morocco; with coloured Plates, £3.

Portraits of Ladies of Distinction, at the Court of
Her Majesty Queen Victoria. A Series of charming Portraits of
the Young Female Nobility, beautifully engraved by the most
eminent Artists. Proof impressions, impl. 4to, price £2 2s., hand-
somely bound.

Curiosities of Glass-making’: A History of the Art,
Ancient and Modern. By Arstey Peruatr, Esq. With Six
beautifully coloured Plates of Antique Vases, &c. Small 4to,

the principal Pictures, Statues, and Bas-reliefs in the Public and
Private Galleries of Europe. This work, which contains En-
gravyings of all the chief works in the Italian, German, Duteh,
French, and English Schools, includes Twetv © HunpReD PLATEs,
and is an indispensable vade-mecum to the Artist or Collector. In
17 handsome volumes small 8vo, neatly bound, with gilt tops,
£4 14s, 6d.

The Bible Gallery: Eighteen Portraits of the Women
mentioned in Scripture, Engraved from Original Drawings, with
Letterpress Descriptions. Imperial 8vo, handsomely bound, 2ts.;
with Plates beautifully coloured, 42s.

The Women of the Bible. Eighteen Portraits (forming

a Second Series of Tue Brsre GatiEry). Handsomely bound,
21s. ; coloured, 42s.

| The Language of Flowers; or, The Pilgrimage of Leve.
By Tuomas Mitter. With Eight beautifully coloured Plates.
Second Edition, small 8vo, cloth, 6s. ; morocco, 7s. 6d.

Milton’s Poetical Works. Paradise Lost and Regained,
Comus, Samson Agonistes, L’ Allegro, &c.; with Essay on Milton’s
Life and Writings, by James Monrcomery. Illustrated with One
Hundred and Twenty Engravings, by THompson, WILLIAMs, ORRIN
Smitu, &c., from Drawings by Wixt1am Harvey. Two yolumes,
crown 8yo, 24s. cloth; 34s. morocco.

Cowper’s Poems. With Life and Critical Remarks by
the Rev. Tuomas Date; and Seventy-five fine Engravings by

J. Orrry Situ, from Drawings by John Gitgert. Two yols.
crown 8yo, 24s. cloth; 34s. morocco.

‘¢The handsomest of the editions of Cowper.’ —Spectator.

| cloth, 12s.
Museum of Painting and Sculpture: A Collection of

[86, FLEET STREET, AND

CMS. aT Se ts eg ae a ee SS eee
W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE. 5

ILLusTRATED Works—Continued. ]

Thomson’s Seasons and Castle of Indolence. with
Life and Critical Remarks by ALLAN CUNNINGHAM ; and Forty-
eight Illustrations by Samurn Wirutams. 12s. cloth; 17s,
morocco.

Beattie and Collins’s Poetical Works. With an Essay
on their Lives and Writings; and Illustrations, engraved by 8.
Wirams, &c., from Drawings by Joun Axzsoton. Crown 8yo,
cloth, 12s. ; morocco, 17s.

Sir Walter Scott’s most Popular Works—

Tilt’s Iilustrated Editions.

e THE LAY OF THE LAST MINSTREL.

« THE LADY OF THE LAKE,

MARMION: A TALE OF FLODDEN FIELD.
ROKEBY.

Hm C8 8D he
S. -

These elegant volumes are uniformly printed in fep. 8yo, and Illus-
trated with numerous Engrayings on Steel. Price 7s. cloth; 10s. 6d.
morocco elegant,

BIOGRAPHY, TRAVEL, ETC,

——_

Men of the Time: or, Biographical Sketches of Emi-
nent Living Characters—Authors, Architects, Artists, Composers,
Capitalists, Dramatists, Divines, Discoverers, Engineers, Journal-
ists, Men of Science, Ministers, Monarchs, Novelists, Painters,
Philanthropists, Poets, Politicians, Savans, Sculptors, Statesmen,
Travellers, Voyagers, Warriors. With Biographies of Celebrated
Women. Greatly Enlarged Edition. With Several Hundred addi-
tional Memoirs, small 8yo, 12s. 6d. cloth.

The Life and Remains of Douglas Jerrold. By his

Son, BhancHarD JERROLD. Containing, also, a quantity of Inter-
esting Correspondence with some of the principal Literary Men of
the day. With a Portrait on Steel. Crown 8yo, 12s., cloth.

‘* Here we have Jerrold at Home, and a more beautiful and winning portrait of
a man of letters does not, we think, exist.”,-— Atheneum.

PaTERNOSTER Row, Lonpon.]

6 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

BrocraPuy, ETC.—Continued. ]

The Heroes of England; or, England’s Warriors by

Sea and Land. Being Stories of the Lives of the most celebrated
Soldiers and Sailors from Edward the Black Prince to the present
time; with Illustrations by Joun GirBeErt, and a Portrait on Steel
of General Havelock. Fep. 8yo, 6s., cloth.

A Boy’s Book of Modern Travel and Adventure. By
M. Jounes, Author of “Children’s Bible Picture-Book,” “ His-
torical Tales,” etc. Illustrated with Eight Engravings from Draw-
ings by William Harvey. Fcap. 8vo, cloth gilt, 5s.

Relics of Genius: Visits to the Last Homes of Poets,
Painters, and Players: with Biographical Sketches. By T. P.
GrinsteD. With Illustrations. Square 16mo, 6s., cloth gilt.

“« The fondness for literary gossip is one of the most marked characteristics of

our times, and to those who would indulge in it we can hardly recommend a plea-
santer companion than Mr. Grinsted.”—Morning Herald,

The Wars of the Roses; or, Stories of the Struggles
between York and Lancaster. By J. G. Epear. Beautifully
Illustrated. Feap. 8vo, 5s., cloth.

«‘ These tales somewhat remind us, in their easy and picturesque style, of Sir

Walter Scott’s celebrated and fascinating performance. itis the very book to put
into the hands of a manly boy.’’—Critic.

The Boyhood of Great Men as an Example to Youth,

By Joun G. Epcar. With Cuts by B. Foster. Fourth Edition,
3s. 6d. cloth; 4s. gilt edges.

‘¢ Tt would have been 2 matter of regret to see such a book badly executed.
That regret we are spared, for this little volume is simply and well done. The
biographies are numerous and brief, but not too short to be amusing; and as
thousands of boys thirst for greatness, which is acquired by ones and tens, there
will be thousands glad to read a book like this.”—Zxaminer.

Footprints of Famous Men; or, Biography for Boys.
By J. G. Enear. Cuts by Foster. Fourth Edition, 3s. 6d. cloth;
4s. gilt edges.

‘‘ A very useful and agreeable volume. Itis useful, as biography is al
important ally to history; and it is useful, because it gives anode Se pogo

waning idea, that any eminence has ever been attained without severe labour.”—
Standard.

Boy Princes; or, Scions of Royalty Cut off in Youth.
By Joun G. Epcar. With Illustrations by Groner Tuomas. Fep.
Syvo, 5s. cloth.

[86, Fieet STREET AND

W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE. 7

BioGRaPHY, ETC.—Continued, }

History for Boys; or, Annals of the Nations of Modern
Europe. By Joun G. EpGar. With Eight Illustrations. Fcp.
Syo, 5s. cloth.

Southey’s Life of Nelson. Iustrated with numerous
Engrayings on Wood, from designs by Duncan, Birxer Foster,
Ricuarp Westatz, &c. Crown 8yo, 6s. cloth; morocco, 10s. 6d.

The Boat and the Caravan: A Family Tour in Egypt

A Ramble through Normandy; or, Scenes, Characters,
and Incidents in a Sketching Excursion through Calvados. By
Grorce M. Muscrayz, M.A. Post 8vo, with numerous Illustra-
tions, 10s. 6d. cloth.

The Wonders of Travel; containing Choice Extracts
from the best Books of Travel. Fcp. 8yo, Plates, 3s. 6d.

Curiosities of Modern Travel. Being Year-Books of
Adventure. 4 vols., fep., 14s. cloth.

Romance of Modern Travel. 3 vols.. fep., 10s. 6d.

and Syria. With Engravings on Steel from Original Drawings.
cloth.

Fourth Edition. Fep. 8vo, cloth, 5s.; morocco, 8s. 6d.
| ARCHITECTURAL WORKS,

|

——_<~+---—-

RAPHAEL AND J. ARTHUR BRANDON.
An Analysis of Gothick Architecture. Ilustrated by

a Series of upwards of Seven Hundred Examples of Doorways,
Windows, &c.; accompanied with Remarks on the several Details
of an Ecclesiastical Edifice. By R. and J. A. Branpon, Architects.
Two large volumes, royal 4to, £5 ds.

The Open Timber Roofs of the Middle Ages. Mlus-

trated by Perspective and Working Drawings of some of the best
varieties of Church Roofs; with Descriptive Letterpress. By R.
and J. A. Brannon. Royal 4to, uniform with the above, £3 3s.

PATERNOSTER Row, Lonpoy.]

8 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

ArcHiTectuRnAL Worxs—Continued. |

Parish Churches; being Perspective Views of English
Ecclesiastical Structures; accompanied by Plans drawn to a Uni-
form Scale, and Letterpress Descriptions. By R. and J. A. Bran-
pon, Architects. Two volumes large 8yo, containing 160 Plates,
£2 28.

Winkles’s English Cathedrals. Anrcnrrecrvran AND

PicturEsQuE ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL CHURCHES OF

ENGLAND AND Waters. New Edition, with the ManenesTER

CATHEDRAL. 186 Plates, beautifully engraved by B. WiNKLEs ;

with Historical and Descriptive Accounts of the various Cathedrals.

In three handsome volumes, imperial 8yo, cloth, £2 8s.

*,* The Third Volume, comprising Lichfield, Gloucester, Here-
ford, Worcester, Durham, Carlisle, Chester, Ripon, Manchester, and

the Welsh Cathedrals, may still be had separately, to complete sets,
price 24s. in 8yo.

Glossary of Architecture. Explanation of the Terms
used in Grecian, Roman, Italian, and Gothic Architecture, exem-
plified by many Hundred Woodcuts. Fifth Edition, much enlarged.
Three yolumes, 8yo, 48s.

Introduction to Gothic Architecture. By the Editor

of the “‘Glossary ;” with numerous Illustrations, 4s. 6d. cloth.

Domestic Architecture. Illustrations of the Ancient Do-
mestic Architecture of England, from the XIth to the XVIIth
Century. Arranged by Joun Britton, F.S.A. With an Histori-
cal and Descriptive Essay. Fep. 8yo, 5s. cloth.

Gothic Architecture. Details of Gothic Architecture,
Measured and Drawn from Existing Examples, by James K. Cot-
LING. 2 yols., medium 4to, £5 ds. a

Gothic Ornaments, Drawn from Existing Authorities, by
James K. Coxtuinc. 2 vols., £7 10s.

Principles of Gothic Ecclesiastical Architecture. By
Matruew H. Broxam. With an Explanation of Architectural
Terms, collected from Building Contracts and other sources, prior to
the Reformation. Tenth Edition, greatly enlarged, and Illustrated
‘with 300 Woodcuts. Beautifully printed in small 8vo, 7s., cloth.
Nearly ready.

-—_—_—_— -——

86, FLEEt STREET, AND

W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE. 9

POETRY,

——

Longfellow’s Poetical Works. New and Complete Edi-
tion, including ‘ Miles Standish.” With a fine Portrait, and other
Engrayings. Fep., 6s. cloth; 10s. 6d. morocco.

The Courtship of Miles Standish, and other Poems.
New Edition, fcap., 5s., cloth gilt; cheap Edition, with Illustra-
tions, 1s., boards.

The Song of Hiawatha. By H. W. Loneretrow. New
Edition, with the Author’s latest Corrections. With Illustrations.
Cheap Protective Edition, fep., 2s. 6d., cloth gilt; 2s. sewed.

The Golden Legend. By H. W. Loyereriow. 2nd
Edition. Fep., 5s. cloth. Cheap Edition. 1s. 6d. cloth; 1s. sewed.

— Poe’s (Edgar Allan) Poetical Works. With a Notice

of his Life and Genius by JAMes Hannay, Esq. Printed on super-
fine toned paper, and beautifully Illustrated by Wehnert, Godwin,
Harrison Weir, and Anelay. Crown 8yo, cloth, gilt edges, ds.

Goldsmith’s (Oliver) Poetical Works. With a Notice
of his Life and Genius by E. F. Buancuarp, Esa. Printed on su-
perfine toned paper, and Illustrated by John Absolon, Birket
Foster, James Godwin, and Harrison Weir. Crown 8yo, cloth,
gilt edges, ds.

Poems. By Arexanner Smirn. Fifth Edition. Fep.
8yo, cloth, ds.

Sonnets on the War. By Axexanper Surru, and by
THE AuTHOR oF “ BALDER.” ls. sewed. :

Griselda, and other Poems. By Enwin Arnotp. Fep.,
6s. cloth.

Robert Burns; A Centenary Song, and other Lyrics. By

GrRALD Massey. 4to, 3s. sewed.

The Ballad of Babe Christabel, and other Lyrical

Poems. By Greratp Massry. Fifth Edition, 5s. cloth.

PaTERNOSTER Row, Lonpon. |

PortRry—Continued. |

Craigcrook Castle: A Poem. By Gzrarp Massey.
Second Edition, Revised, fep., 5s. cloth.

Rev. Thomas Dale’s Poetical Works. Including “The
Widow of Nain,” “The Daughter of Jairus,” &c. New and En-
larged Edition, fep. 8vo, 7s. cloth, morocco elegant, 14s.

Poems. By Epwarp Carzrx, Rural Postman of Bide-
ford, Deyon. Third Edition, with Additions, fep., 5s. cloth.

Ballads and Poems. By Enwarn Capzry, author of
“Poems.” Fep. 5s. cloth.

Egeria; or, The Spirit of Nature. By Caantzs Macray,
LL.D. Fep. 8vo, 3s. 6d. cloth.

Town Lyrics. By Cusntes Mackay. Crown 8vo, sewed, 1s.

Lorrin, and other Poems. By G. T. Cosrer. Fep.
8yo, 3s. cloth.

FICTION AND AMUSEMENT.

—_———_.

Old Faces in New Masks; a Series of Literary, Scientific,
and Humourous Essays. By R. Braxry, Ph. D., Author of the
“History of the Philosophy of Mind,’ with an [llustration.
8yo, 7s., cloth:

Longfellow’s Prose Works. “Hyperion,” “‘ Kavanagh,”
and “ Outre-Mer.” Fecp. 8vo. Uniform with Longfellow’s Poeti-
cal Works. With numerous Engravings. 6s. cloth; 10s. 6d.
morocco.

The Traditions of London; Historical and Legendary.
By Waters, author of “ Recollections of a Police Officer.” Crown
8yo, ds. cloth.

Parlour Magic; A Manual of Amusing Experiments,
Transmutations, Sleights and Subtleties, Legerdemain, &c. New

dition, revised and enlarged with the addition of several Tricks
from the performances of Houdin, Robin, &c. 4s. 6d. cloth.

Acting Charades; or, Deeds not Words. A Christmas
Game to make a long evening short. By the Brothers Maynew.
Illustrated with many hundred Woodcuts. 5s. cloth.

A Cracker Bon-Bon for Christmas Parties: A Collec-

tion of Humorous Dramas, Poems, and Sketches. By R. B. Broven.
Profusely Illustrated by Hinz. Cloth, 3s. 6d.

[86, FizeT STREET, AND

| 10 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

W. KENT AND CO.’8 CATALOGUE. 11

Fiction—Continued. |

Round Games for all Parties. A Collection of the
greatest Variety of Family Amusements for the Fireside or Pic-
nic—Games of Action—Games of Memory—Catch Games—Games
requiring the Exercise of Fancy, Intelligence, and Imagination—
Directions for Crying Forfeits, &. Second Edition. 5s. ‘cloth gilt.

Shadows. Twenty-five Amusing Engravings. By C. H.
Bennett. Ornamental Wrapper, 2s. ‘6d. ; ; coloured, 4s, 6d.
‘¢ Where’s Shadow? Here, Sir. Shadow! ”—Shakspeare.

*¢The notion that has seized Mr. Bennett’s fancy is an odd one, and he has
worked it out with great humour. A comic figure makes a shadow really more
comic than itself, and it excites an amount of agreeable curiosity and gratification
on seeing the one figure, to imagine how the artist will contrive to make it malicet
another.”—WMorning Chronicle.

Grimm’s Household Stories. All the most Popular
Fairy Tales and Legends of Germany, collected by the Brothers
Grimm. Newly Translated, and Illustrated with Two Hundred
and Forty Engravings, by Epwarp H. WreuNERT. Complete in
One Volume, crown 8yo, 7s. 6d. cloth.

Adventures of Robinson Crusoe, complete: Reprinted
from the Original Edition, with Illustrations by Stothard. Crown
8yvo, cloth, 7s. 6d.

The Young Lady’s Oracle ; or, Fortune-telling Book. A

Fireside Amusement, with Plate, 1s. cloth.

USEFUL WORKS

ONE SHILLING EACH, NEATLY BOUND.

Etiquette for the Ladies. | Handbook of Pencil Drawing

Forty-first Edition. (Plates).
Etiquette for Gentlemen. | A Shilline’s Worth of Sense.
ae Pen. The Weather Book: 300 Rules

Etiquette of Courtship and | for Telang the Weather.

Matrimony, with a complete Guide to Th all Room
the Forms of a Wedding. e B : 0 Preceptor
and Polka Guide.

e of Flowers, with :
illuminated Covers,and kaitiihied Fron- Bali Room Polka, with Music

tispiece. / and Figures.

PaTERNOSTER Row, Lonvon. ]

W. KENT AND CO.’8 CATALOGUE.

b~
wo

SCIENTIFIC WORKS, ETC.

——_>-— -

Lectures on the Great Exhibition, and its Results on the
Arts and Manufactures. Delivered before the Society of Arts, by
some of the most Eminent Men of the day. In Two Series, price
7s. 6d. each, neatly bound in cloth.

Suggestions in Design; including Original Compositions
in all Styles, with Descriptive Notes for the use of Artists and
Art Workmen, containing nearly 600 Hints for Workers in Metal,
Wood, Ivory, Glass, and Leather, the Potter, Weaver, Printer in
ed Engraver, Decorator, &c. By Luxe Limner. 4to, 16s.
cloth.

Year-Book of Facts in Science and Art; exhibiting
the most important Discoveries and Improvements of the Year, and
a Literary and Scientific Obituary. By Joun Trmps, F.S.A.,
Editor of ‘‘ The Arcana of Science.”’ Fep. 8vo, 5s. cloth.

* ,* This work is published annually, and contains a complete and
condensed view of the progress of discovery during the year, syste-
matically arranged, with Engravings illustrative of novelties in the Arts
and Sciences, &c. The volumes, from its commencement in 1839, may
still be had, 5s. each.

‘This book does for us what we have not done for ourselves—it stores up
every useful bit of information to be found in the records of learned societies or
announced through scientific and news journals.’’—Globe,

** Ably and honestly compiled.”’—Athenaum.

The Literary and Scientific Register and Almanack
for 1859 ; with an ample Collection of Useful Statistical and Mis-
cellaneous Tables. Dedicated, by special permission, to H.R.H.
the Prince Consort. By J. W. G. Gurcu, M.R.C.S.L., F.L.S., late
Foreign Service Queen’s Messenger. Price 3s. 6d. roan tuck.

** As perfect a compendium of useful knowledge in connection with Literature,
Science, and the Arts, as it is necessary everybody should have acquaintance with.
It is, in short, a little volume which will save the trouble of hunting through many
books of more pretension, and supply off-hand what, without it, would require
much time and trouble.’’—TZimes, ~

[86, FLEET STREET, AND

W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE. 13

DICTIONARIES,

—_>—-

Webster’s Quarto Dictionary, unabridged ; containing
all the Words in the English Language, with their Etymologies and
Derivations. By Noan Wesstrer, LL.D. Revised by Professor
Goopricn. With Pronouncing Vocabularies of Scripture, Classical,
and Geographical Names. New Edition, carefully printed in a
large 4to volume, 31s. 6d. cloth; 42s. calf.

*,* The only complete work. -All the octavo editions are Abridgments.

‘* All young persons should have a standard Dictionary at their elbow; and
while you are about it, get the best: that Dictionary is Noah Webster’s, the great
work unabridged. Ifyou are too poor, save the amount from off your back, to
put it into your head.”

‘¢ We can have no hesitation in giving it as our opinion, that this is the most
elaborate and successful undertaking of the kind which has ever appeared.”—
Times.

‘The veteran Webster’s work is the best and most useful Dictionary of the
English Language ever published. Every page attests the learning and talent,
the sound judgment and nice discrimination, the great industry, profound re-
search, and surprising perseverance of the author. It is a very manifest improve-
ment on Todd's Johnson, and contains many thousand more words than that or
any other English Dictionary hitherto published.”—Zzaminer.

Webster’s Smaller Dictionary. Condensed and adapted
to English Orthography and Usage from various sources. By
CuaR es Rozson, crown 8yo, 5s. embossed.

Webster’s Pocket Dictionary, 32mo, 3s. 6d.

Miniature French Dictionary, in French and English,
English and French: comprising all the words in general use.
The remarkably comprehensive nature and compact size of this
little Dictionary admirably fit it for the student and tourist. Neatly
bound in roan, 4s.; morocco, gilt edges, 5s. 6d.

PATERNOSTER Row, Lonvon. |

W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

‘ COMIC WORKS.

————

GEORGE CRUIKSHANK’S WORKS,
My Sketch-Book; containing more than Two Hundred

laughable Sketches. By Gzorcz CrurxsHanxk. In Nine Numbers.
2s. 6d. plain; 3s. 6d. coloured.

Scraps and Sketches. In Four Parts, each 8s. plain;

12s. coloured.
Ilustrations of Time, 2s. 6d. plain; 5s. coloured.

Iustrations of Phrenology. 8s. plain; 12s. coloured.
The Bottle. In Eight Large Plates, 1s., and on large

paper 2s. 6d.; or printed in tints, 6s.

The Drunkard’s Children. A Sequel to The Bottle.
Hight large Plates, 1s. ; printed in tints, 6s.

* ,.* These two works may be had stitched up with Dr. Charles
Mackay’s illustrative Poem, price 3s, The Poem separate, 1s.

The Comic Alphabet. Twenty-six Humorous Designs.

In case, 2s. 6d. plain; 4s. coloured.

The Loving Ballad of Lord Bateman. With Twelve
Humorous Plates. Cloth, 2s.

The Bachelor’s Own Book: Being Twenty-four Passages
in the Life of Mr. Lambkin in the Pursuit of Pleasure and Amuse-
ment. ds. sewed; coloured, 8s. 6d. .

The Comic Almanack, from its commencement in 1835
to 1858. Tilustrated with numerous large Plates by GEORGE
CRUIKSHANK, and many hundred amusing Cuts.

*.# Any of the separate Years (except that for 1835) may be had
at 1s. 3d. each.

[86, Fiunr Srrerr, anp

W. KENT AND CO.’8 CATALOGUE. 13

Comic Worxs—Continued.]_ ,

Comic Adventures of Obadiah Oldbuck: Wherein

are duly set forth the Crosses, Chagrins, Changes, and Calamities
by which his Courtship was attended; showing, also, the Issue of
his Suit, and his Espousal to his Ladye-love. Large 8vo, with
Eighty-four Plates, 7s. cloth.

The History of Mr. Ogleby: Showing how, by the
Polish of his Manners, the Brilliancy of his Repartees, and the
Elegance of his Attitudes, he attained Distinction in the Fashion-
able World. 150 Designs, 6s. cloth.

Shadows. Twenty-five Amusing Engravings. By C. H.
Bennett. Ornamental Wrapper, 2s. 6d.; coloured, 4s. 6d.

** Where’s Shadow? Here, Sir. Shadow !”—Shakspeare.

‘‘The notion that has seized Mr. Bennett’s fancy is an odd one, and he has
worked it out with great humour. A comic figure makes a shadow really more
comic than itself, and it excites an amount of agreeable curiosity and gratification
on seeing the one figure, to imagine how the artist will contrive to make it reflect
another.”—WVorning Chronicle.

The Fables of Aisop and others. ‘Translated into
Human Nature, with 25 Humorous Illustrations by Charles H.
BENNETT, author of “Shadows.” Demy 4to, ornamental boards,
6s. plain; 10s. 6d. coloured.

“This will be a popular book. Mr. Bennett’s first venture, the grotesquely-
treated ‘‘ Shadows,” was a decided hit, and he seems to have the knack of com-
bining comicality and fancy in such proportions as shall be appetizing and digestible
for the public.” —Spectutor.

The Sandboys’ Adventures; or, London in 1851, during
the Great Exhibition. By Henry Maynew and Grorce Cruik-
SHANK. 8vo, cloth, 8s. 6d.

The Comical Creatures from Wurtemberg; from the
Stuffed Animals in the Great Exhibition. Square, cloth, 3s. 6d;
coloured, 6s.

a hse

Comical People met with at the Great Exhibition, from

| Drawings by J. J. Granpvitie. Small 4to, 3s. 6d.; coloured, 6s.
H

PATERNOSTER Row, Lonpon. |

—_

16 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

NEW BOOKS FOR OLD AND YOUNG.

BY JOHN TIMBS, F.S.A.

Schooldays of Eminent Men. With Sketches of the
Progress of Education from the Reign of King Alfred to that of
Queen Victoria, and Memoirs of the School and College Days of the
most Eminent Men in British History. With Illustrations, 5s.

Curiosities of Science; Past and Present. Contents—
Physical Phenomena—Sound and Light—Astronomy—Geology and

i Paleontology—Meteorological Phenomena—Physical Geography of
the Sea—Phenomena of Heat--Magnetism and Electricity—The
Electric Telegraph. With Frontispiece and Vignette. Price 3s. 6d.

Popular Errors Explained and Illustrated. An

entirely New Edition. With Frontispiece and Vignette. Price
3s. 6d.

Curiosities of History; with New Lights. With Fron-
tispiece and Vignette. Price 3s. 6d.

‘© A cabinet volume, well stored, well arranged, pleasant to read, useful to
consult ; containing a multitude of historical elucidations, neatly stated, and
judiciously grouped.” —Leader.

Things Not Generally Known Familiarly Explained.
With Frontispiece and Vignette. Price 3s. 6d.

‘© Any one who reads and remembers Mr. Timbs’s encyclopedic varieties
should ever after be a good tea-table talker, an excellent companion for children,
a well read person, and a proficient lecturer; for Mr. Timbs has stored up in this
little volume more knowledge than is to be found in 100 books that might be
named.”’—Athenceum.

*,* A Second Volume of “Tuines Not GENERALLY Known’ is
nearly ready.

Curiosities of London; exhibiting the most Rare and
Remarkable Objects of Interest in the Metropolis, Past and Pre-
sent, with nearly Fifty Years’ Personal Recollections. In a volume
of 800 pages, price 14s., with a Portrait of the Author from a
Painting by T. J. Gullick.

‘¢ A wonderful little Dictionary of London is this volume by Mr. Timbs.
There is 0 much out-of-the way reading in it, such apt introduction of personal
experience, and such a quantity of agreeable illustration, drawn both from books
andmen. We heartily commend this volume.”—£zaminer,

Painting Popularly Explained, with Historic Notices of
the Progress of the Art. By Tuomas Joun Gutuicx, Painter, and
Joun Truss, F.S.A. In small 8vo, 6s.

[86, Freer StreEt, AND

W. KENT AND CO.’s CATALOGUE. 17

JUVENILE WORKS.

——
CAPTAIN REID’S BOOKS OF ADVENTURE FOR BOYS.
The Young Yagers; a Narrative of Hunting Adven-

tures in Southern Africa. By Caprain Mayne Rem, Author of
“The Boy Hunters,” “‘ The Young Voyageurs,” &c. Second Edition,
with Twelve Illustrations by W1tt1am Harvey. Fep., 7s. cloth.

The Bush Boys; or, the History and Adventures of a
Cape Farmer and his Family in the Wild Karoos of Southern Africa.
Second Edition, with Twelve Illustrations. Fep., 7s. cloth.,

The Desert Home; or, English Family Robinson. With
numerous Illustrations by W. Harvey. Sixth Edition, cloth, 7s.;
with coloured plates, 9s.

The Boy Hunters; or, Adventures in Search of a White
Buffalo. With numerous Plates by Harvey. Fifth Edition, cloth,
7s.; coloured, 9s.

The Young Voyageurs; or, Adventures in the Fur
Countries of the Far North. Plates by Harvey. Second Edition,
cloth, 7s.; with coloured plates, 9s.

The Forest Exiles; or, Perils of a Peruvian Family amid
the Wilds of the Amazon. With Twelve Plates. Third Edition,
7s. cloth ; with coloured plates, 9s.

The Plant Hunters; or, Adventures among the Himalaya
Mountains. Plates by Harvey. Cloth, 7s.

Ran Away to Sea: An Autobiography for Boys.
With Twelve Illustrations. Cloth, 7s.

**As a writer of books for boys, commend us above all men living to Captain
Mayne Reid! Wherever his new book goes this new year, there will be abundant
delight for hours of reading, and plenty to talk of by the evening fire. Toils and
adventures, dangers, darings and sufferings are narrated in the most vivid manner
—thoroughly fascinating the mind of the reader, and retaining it in fixed and
eager attention till a crisis of some kind is reached. Take our word for it, boy
friends, if you become Captain Mayne Reid’s ‘ buy readers ’ on our recommendation,
you will thank us for it with all your hearts, and praise the book more enthusias-
tically than we have done.”’—Nonconformist.

PATERNOSTER Row, Lonpon. }

18 W. KENT AND CO.’Ss CATALOGUE.

JuvexILeE Worxks—Continued. }
MR. H. MAYHEW’S BOOKS OF SCIENCE FOR BOYS.

The Wonders of Science; or, Young Humphry Davy
(the Cornish Apothecary’s Boy, who taught himself Natural Phi-
losophy, and eventually became President of the Royal Society).
The Life of a Wonderful Boy, written for Boys. By Henry May-
HEW, Author of “ The Peasant-Boy Philosopher,” &c. With Illus-
trations by Joun Gitsert. Second Edition. Fep., 6s. cloth.

*¢A better hero for a boy’s book Mr. Mayhew could not have found, and no
writer would have treated the story more succéssfully than he has done. We have

long been in want of a‘ young people’s author,’ and weseem to have the right man
in the right place in the person of Mr. Mayhew.”—Atheneum.

The Story of the Peasant-Boy Philosopher; or, “A
Child gathering Pebbles on the Sea-shore.” Founded on the Life
of Ferguson the Shepherd-boy Astronomer, and showing how a
Poor Lad made himself acquainted with the Principles of Natural
Science. By Henry Mayuew, Author of ‘London Labour and
the London Poor.’ With Hight Illustrations by Jonn GizBeERrt,
and numerous Drawings printed in the text. Third Edition, 6s.
cloth.

“Told with the grace and feeling of Goldsmith, and by one who has that know-
ledge of science which Goldsmith lacked. lt is as if Brewster and poor ‘ Goldy ’
had combined to produce this instructive and beautifully-told tale.”—Zra.

MR. J. G. EDGAR’S BOOKS FOR BOYS.

The Wars of the Roses; or, Stories of the Struggles
between York and Lancaster. By J. G. Epcar. With Six beauti-
ful Illustrations. Fcap., 5s. cloth.

The Boyhood of Great Men as an Example to Youth.
By J. G. Enear. With Cuts by B. Fostrw. Fourth Edition,
3s. 6d. cloth; with gilt edges, 4s.

Footprints of Famous Men; or, Biography for Boys.
By J. G. Epcar. Cuts by Foster. Fourth Edition, 3s. 6d. cloth ;
4s. gilt edges.

Boy Princes. By Joun G. Enear. With Illustrations
by Gzorce Tomas. Fep. 8vo, 5s. cloth.

(86, Frenr SrreET, AND

W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE. 19

JUVENILE Worxs—Continued. |

History for Boys; or, Annals of the Nations of Modern

Europe. By J.G.Epean. Fep. 8yo, with Illustrations by GrorcE
Tuomas, 5s. cloth gilt.

The Heroes of England; or, England’s Warriors by
Sea and Land. Being Stories of the Lives of the most celebrated
Soldiers and Sailors from Edward the Black Prince to the present
time. With Illustrations by Joun GitzeRt, and Portrait on Steel
of Havelock. Fep. Syo, 6s., cloth,

A Boy’s Book of Modern Travel and Adventure.
By M. Jounes, Author of “ Children’s Bible Picture Book,” “ His-
torical Tales,” etc. Illustrated with Eight Engravings from Draw-
ings by Witt1am Haryry. Fep. 8vo, ds., cloth gilt,

The Home Lesson-Book. Mlustrated with nearly 300
Engravings. Containing—“ The Home Primer,’ “The Home
Natural History,’ and ‘“‘The Home Grammar,’ in1 vol. Hand-

_ Somely bound in cloth gilt, gilt edges, fep., 3s. plain, 5s. 6d. coloured.

The Home Story-Book, Beautifully Illustrated. Con-

taining ‘The Well Bred Doll,” “The Discontented Chickens,”

* and “The History of Little Jane.” In 1 vol., handsomely bound in
cloth, gilt edges, fep., 3s. plain, 5s. 6d. coloured.

The Boy’s Own Book: A complete Encyclopedia of all
the Diversions— Athletic, Scientific, and Recreative~.of Boyhood
and Youth. With several hundred Woodcuts. New KEdition,
greatly enlarged and improved. Handsomely bound, 8s. 6d.; morocco,
14s,

The Little Boy's Cwn Book, an Abridgment of “The
Boy’s own Book’ for Little Boys. 3s. 6d. neatly bound.

Grimm’s Household Stories. All the most Popular
Fairy Tales and Legends of Germany, collected by the Brothers
Grimm. Newly Translated, and Illustrated with Two Hundred
and Forty Engrayings by Epwarp H. Wreunert. Complete in
One Volume, crown 8vyo, 7s. 6d. cloth; with gilt edges, 8s. 6d.

The Rival Kings; or, Overbearing. By the Author of
‘** Mia and Charlie,” &e. With Illustrations by Witttams. Fep.,
4s. 6d. cloth.

PATERNOSTER Row, Lonvon. |

~

20 W. KENT AND CO.’8 CATALOGUE,

JUVENILE Worxs—Continued.

Mia and Charlie; or, a Week’s Holiday at Rydale Rec-
tory. With Eight Engravings by B. Foster. Fep., 4s. 6d. cloth.

Sidney Grey: A Tale of School Life. By the Author of
“Mia and Charlie.” With Engravings, fep., 6s. cloth.

| : °
The Heroes of Asgard and the Giants of Jotunheim ;
or, Christmas Week with the Old Storytellers. By the Author of

“Mia and Charlie.” With Illustrations by C. Doyzz. Fep.
cloth, 5s.

Southey’s Life of Nelson. Finely-illustrated Edition,
with Engravings from Drawings by Duncan, B. Foster, and
others, partly printed in the text, and part in tints on separate pages.

' Small 8yo, 6s. neatly bound, and morocco, 10s. 6d.

Memorable Women ; the Story of their Lives. By Mrs.
Newton Crostanp. Illustrated by B. Foster. F cp. 8yo, 3s. 6d.

The Boat and the Caravan: A Family Tour in Egypt

and Syria. With Engravings on Steel from Original Drawings.
Fourth Edition. Fep. 8vo, cloth, 5s.; morocco, 8s. 6d.

The Young Student. By Madame Gumor. With En-
gravings. Fep., 3s. 6d. cloth.

Adventures of Robinson Crusoe, complete. Reprinted

from the Original Edition, with Illustrations by Stothard. Crown
8vo, cloth, 7s. 6d.

The Whaleman’s Adventures in the Southern Ocean.

By the Rev. Henry T. Curnver. [Edited by the Rev. W.
ScoresBy, D.D. Fecp. 8vo, 4s. 6d.

Parlour Magic. New Edition, revised and enlarged,
with the addition of several Tricks from the Performances of Messrs.
Houdin, Robin, &c. 4s. 6d. cloth.

The Young Islanders; a Tale of the Seaward-House
Boys. By Jerrerys TayLor. Tinted plates, fep., 3s. 6d. cloth.

Child’s First Lesson Book. Many Cuts, square cloth,
3s. 6d.; coloured Plates, 6s.

(86, Frzer STREET, AND

W. KENT AND CO.’8 CATALOGUE. 21

JUVENILE Worxks—Continued, ]

Bingley’s Tales about Birds; illustrative of their
Nature, Habits, and Instinct. Plates, 3s. cloth.

Bingley’s Tales about Travellers; their Perils, Ad-

ventures, and Discoveries. Plates, 3s. cloth.

Bingley’s Tales of Shipwreck, and other Disasters at
Sea. Plates, 3s. cloth.

Bingley’s Stories; illustrative of the Instinct of Animals,
their Characters and Habits. Plates, 3s. cloth.

Bingley’s Stories about Dogs; illustrative of their
Instinct, Sagacity, and Fidelity, with Plates by Tomas LanpszeEr.
3s. cloth.

Bingley’s Stories about Horses; illustrative of their
Intelligence, Sagacity, and Docility. Plates, 3s. cloth.

Bingley’s Bible Quadrupeds; the Natural History of

the Animals mentioned in Scripture. Plates, 3s. cloth.

Original Poems for My Children; by Tuomas Mutter.
Profusely Illustrated, 2s. 6d. cloth.

George Cruikshank’s Fairy Library. [Edited and
Illustrated by Grorce CrurksHank. 1. Hop o’ my Thumb, 1s.
2. Jack and the Bean Stalk, 1s. 3. Cinderella, or the Glass
Slipper, 1s.

Harry’s Ladder to Learning.
Picture Books for Children. Price
6d. each, plain; 1s. coloured :—

Harry’s Horn Boox.

Harry’s Picture Book.

Harry’s Country WALKS.

Harry’s Nursery Sones.

Harry’s SIMPLE STORIES.

Harry’s Nursery TAuLgEs.

Or the Six bound in one volume; 3s. 6d.
cloth; or with coloured plates, 6s.

Bertie’s Indestructible Trea-

sury. Printed on Calico, and Illus-
trated with 100 Pictures. Square
16mo, 3s. 6d. cloth.

PATERNOSTER Row, Lonpon.]

Little Mary’s Books for Chil-
dren. Price 6d. each, profusely
Illustrated :—

PRIMER; SPELLING Book; READING

Book; History oF ENGLAND; ScrIp-

TURE LEssons; First Book oF Porrry;

SEconD Book oF PorETry ; BABES INTHE

Woop; Picture Ripptes; LITTLE

Mary AND HER DoLL; Naturat His-

TORY.

Little Mary’s Treasury, being
Eight of the above bound in one
volume, cloth, 5s.

Little Mary’s Lesson Book;
containing ‘‘ Primer,” ‘ Spelling,”’
and ‘*Reading,’ in One Volume,
Cloth, gilt, 2s. 6d.

22 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

JUVENILE Worxs—Continued. |

Comical Story Books, with Coloured Plates. 1s. each.

1. Tux Weasets or Hormwoop. 4, Lapy CHAFFINCH’S BALL.
2. THE WonperRFuL Hark Hunt, 5. ALDERMAN GOBBLE.
3. SToRY oF REYNARD THE Fox. 6. A ComicaL FIGHT.

HOME BOOKS.
In Cloth, One Shilling each, Coloured, 2s. 6d.

Home Lesson Books. Home Story Books.
Tax Home Primer, nearly 200 Cuts. | THe Wett-prep Dott, Cuts.
Tur Home Narurat History, Cuts.| THE Disconzentep Curckens, Cuts.
Tuz Home Grawar, Cuts. THE History oF LitrLe JANE AND

HER NEw Book, Cuts.

Or, in One Vol., gilt edges, plain 3s., Or, in One Vol., gilt edges, plain 3s.,
coloured, 5s. 6d. coloured 5s, 6d.

INDESTRUCTIBLE BOOKS. INDESTRUCTIBLE PLEA.
SURE BOOKS,
One Shilling each, Coloured,

Indestructible Lesson Books, 1, BO-PEEP,
price 1s. each, 2, MOTHER GOOSE.

1. AtpHaBEeT. | 4, Expostror. 3. HOUSE THAT JACK BUILT.
py eens a ea seca 4. WEDDING OF COCK ROBIN.
9 lent tract Rook. 5. DEATH OF COCK ROBIN.
6. MOTHER HUBBARD.
‘ 7. CAT AND MOUSE.

The Indestructible Lesson 8. JENNY WREN.

Book; being the above five in One 9. OLD WOMAN AND HER PIG.

Volume, with 125 pictures, price 5s. 10. LITTLE MAN AND MAID.

MANUALS OF INSTRUCTION AND AMUSEMENT.

One Shilling each, neatly Printed and Illustrated.
1, Manual of Flower Garden- | 5. Manual of Cage Birds. By

ing for Ladies. By J. B. WuirTine, a Practical Bird Keeper.
Practical Gardener. Second Edition.

9, Manual of Chess. By 6. Manual of Oil Painting,

CH ee with a Glossary of Terms of Art.

3. Manual of Music. By C.| 7. Manual for Butterfly Col-

W. Maney. lectors. By Aspen IncPEN. Plates.
4, Manual of Domestic Eco-| 8. Manual of Painting in
nomy. By Jonn Times. Water Colours.

[86, Fizer STREET, AND

W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE 23

KLEMENTARY DRAWING BOOKS.

—_—>—-
BY MONS. JULIEN.

Studies of Heads; by Mons. Jutren, Professor of Drawing
in the Military School of Paris. Lithographed by T. Farruanp.
Six Numbers, 2s. each ; or cloth, 14s.

The Human Figure: A Series of Progressive Studies,
by Mons. Junren. With Instructions. Six Numbers, 2s. each ;
or cloth, 14s.

BY GEORGE CHILDS.

Drawing Book of Objects: Nearly 500 Subjects for

young Pupils and Drawing-classes in Schools. Six Numbers, Is.
each ; cloth, 7s. 6d.

Drawing Book of Figures: Sketches from Life at
Home and Abroad. Several hundred Figures. Six Numbers, 1s. ;
or bound, 7s. 6d.

English Landscape Scenery: Sketches from Nature
for finished Copies. Six Numbers, ls. each ; cloth, 7s. 6d.

Little Sketch Book: Tasy Studies in Landscapes,
Figures, etc. Improved Edition. Fourteen Numbers, 6d. ; or two
vols., cloth, 4s. each.

BY J. D. HARDING.

Karly Drawing Book: Elementary Lessons. Six Num-
bers, 1s. 6d.; or in cloth, 10s. 6d.

Phillips’s Etchings of Familiar Life. Three Num-

bers, Is. 6d.

Sutcliffe’s Drawing Book of Horses. Six Numbers,
1s.; cloth, 7s. 6d.

Worsley’s Little Drawing Book of Landscapes, etc.
Fourteen Numbers, 6d.; or 2 vols. cloth, 4s. each.
i
PaTERNOSTER Row, Lonpon.]

|

A A ET A

24 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

MISCELLANEOUS WORKS,

—-- 4 --

Williams’s Symbolical Euclid, chiefly from the Text of
Dr. Simson. Adapted to the use of Students, by the Rey. J. M.
Wiutttams, of Queen’s College, Cambridge. New Edition, 6s. 6d.
cloth; 7s, roan. An 8yvo Edition may also be had, 7s. cloth.

*,* This edition is in use at many of the Public Schools.

King’s Interest Tables, on Sums from One to Ten
Thousand Pounds. Enlarged and improved, with several useful
Additions. By Joszrn Kine, of Liverpool. In one large yol.
8yo, 21s.

Health for the Million and Manual for the Toilette, with
Hints on the Physical Training of Children, and the Treatment of
Invalids and Old Age; also the Means of Averting the Noxious
Agents in general use in the principal Arts and Trades. By Wm.
Jones, F.S.A., Author of “ How to Make Home Happy.” Fep.,
cloth, 4s. 6d.

How to Make Home Happy; or, Hints and Cautions
for All. With Five Hundred Odds and Ends worth remembering.
By Wri11aM Jonzs, F.S.A. Small 8vo, 4s. 6d. cloth.

Panoramic View of Palestine, or the Holy Land, before

the Destruction of Jerusalem, depicting the sites of the various
localities mentioned in Scripture. With References. In a folding
cloth case. Plain, 2s. 6d.; coloured, 3s. 6d. On sheet, plain,
1s. 6d. ; coloured, 2s. 6d.

TILT’S CABINET LIBRARY EDITIONS.

1. Dr. Johnson’s Lives of the English Poets.
2. Boswell’s Life of Johnson.
3. Oliver Goldsmith’s Works.

4, Hervey’s Meditations and Contemplations.

*,* These Works are clearly and beautifully printed by Whittingham; each
comprised in a handsome fep. 8vo yolume. ‘Their elegance and cheapness render
them very suitable for Presents, Sehool Prizes, or Travelling Companions.
Price 6s. each, neatly half-bound in morocco; or, 9s. calf extra.

“Tixt’s Evirion”’ must be specified in ordering the above.

[86, Freer STREET, AND

W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE. 25

MIscELLANEOUS Worxs—Continued. |

The Book and its Story; a Narrative for the Young.
By L. N. R., dedicated to the British and Foreign Bible Society,
with an Introductory Preface by the Rev. T. Phillips, Jubilee
Secretary. Eleventh Edition, on fine paper, with a new Plate, “‘ The
First Reading of the Bible in Old St. Paul’s,” engraved expressly
for this edition. Crown 8yo, cloth, price 4s.

The Book and its Story. Twelfth and People’s Edition.
Seventy-second Thousand. Price 2s. in paper boards or limp cloth ;
2s. 6d. cloth boards; ditto, gilt edges, 3s.; handsomely bound in
morocco, 8s.

The Book and its Story, in the French Language,
having been issued by the Société des Livres Religeux 4 Toulouse,
the Publishers of the English Edition have imported a quantity for |
the use of Schools, and Students of the French Language. Price 4s.

The Book and its Story, in the German Language;

with a Preface by Dr. F. W. Krummacuer. Price 4s. cloth.

“ This is an entire translation of that noble English work, of which Dr. Osterlag,
of Basle, had already given us an abstract. No one would suspect from the simple
headings of this attractive and popular volume, that they are the doors to such
treasure-houses of instruction and edification.” —German Review.

The Book and its Missions, Past and Present.

A Monthly Magazine, of which three volumes are already pub-
lished ; containing not only a survey of the progress of the Bible
among Heathen nations, but France, Brittany, Spain, Italy, and
Sardinia also pass under review. The particulars of the FEMALE
BistE Missions, which are now beginning to excite general inte-
rest, and which are being carried on in St. Giles’s, among the dust-
heaps at Paddington, in Westminster, Spitalfields, Clerkenwell, etc.,
are at present only to be found in these volumes. Demy 8yo, cloth,
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The History of the Painters of all Nations. By

M. Cuarters Bianco, late “ Directeur des Beaux Arts’ of France.
The Illustrations executed under the artistic direction of M.
ARMENGAUD, of Paris. In one handsome yolume, half-roan, royal
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*,* Only a few copies of this splendid work remain in print,

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26 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

MiscetLangous Worxs—Continued. ]

Memoirs of the Queens of Prussia. By Eaora Wittsner
Arxinson. This work especially includes the period between
1701, the date of Frederic the First’s assumption of the title of
King, and the present time, and is intended to describe the lives,
and as much as can be ascertained of the private history of the six
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St. Leonard; or, The Missionary: A Vision. The scene
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The Ladies’ Drawing-room Book; Containing upwards
of Thirty magnificent Engravings, with Sixty-four Pages of appro-
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ings, consisting of nearly 100 Patterns in every department of
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This beautiful work will never be reprinted, and but a very
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Daniel Webster’s Great Orations and Senatorial
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tions on the First Settlement of New England; on the Bunker-Hill
Monument; and his Reply to Hayne on the Sale of Public Lands,
&c. With a beautifully-engraved Portrait of Mr. Webster. Price
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MISS KENNEDY’S NEW NOVEL.
Shreds and Patches; or, Pathos and Bathos. A Tale

of Fashionable Life. By Janz Kennepy. Crown 8yo, handsome

cloth, 3s. 6d.

«©The work is admirably written, and being pervaded by a healthy and improv-
ing tone, it may safely be placed in the hands of the young of both sexes,”—
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The Balance of Beauty; or, The Lost Image Re-
stored. By Jane Kennepy, Author of ‘Sketches of Character,”
“Julian,” ‘“ Young Maids and Old Maids,’ “Things New and
Old,” &c. Price 3s. 6d,, neatly bound in cloth.

** Miss Kennedy may take it for granted that those who judge purely upon the
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(86, Fizzr STREET, AND

W. KENT AND CO.’s CATALOGUE.

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Miscertannous Worxs—Continued, ]

Lionel Fitzgibbon and his Parrot. Mustrated. By
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The Angler's Complete Guide to the Rivers and Lakes
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trated Wrapper. Price 2s., boards.

The Life of Alexis Soyer. By his Two Secretaries.
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**To read the book is to learn that the life of a cook may not be without high
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‘The unpublished receipts and odds and ends of gastronomy are worth the
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Hints for the Table; or, the Economy of Good Living,

with a few words on Wines. Price 2s. 6d.

**This is a wonderful book.”—Dorning Star.

The Gourmet’s Guide to Rabbit-Cookinge; or, How

to Cook a Rabbit in One Hundred and Twenty-four different
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Seven Hundred Domestic Hints in every branch of
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The Wit and Opinions of Douglas Jerrold. A
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of Wisdom uttered by this celebrated man. Edited by his Son.
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Recollections of 2 Detective Police Officer. Second .

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2 eam

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28 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

HORTICULTURE, GARDENING, ETC.

1 ED

The Cottage Gardener’s Dictionary. Describing the
Plants, Fruits, and Vegetables desirable for the Garden, and ex-
plaining the Terms and Operations employed in their cultivation ;
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Glenny’s Handbook to the Flower-Garden and
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nagement of all the popular Flowers and Plants grown in this
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garden and Greenhouse. Just published, a new and thoroughly
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dener’s Gazette,” and the ‘“‘Gardener and Practical Florist,’ &c.
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Glenny’s Catechism of Gardening. Containing the
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Glenny’s Garden Almanac, and Florist’s Directory for
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The Vegetable Kingdom, and its Products.
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a Text-buok to the study of all vegetable products used in the arts,
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Manual of Flower Gardening for Ladies. By J. B.

Wuirtrne, Practical Gardener. Royal 24mo, sewed, price Is.

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W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

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eens the Verbs, and Directions for making use of the GeRMAN
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Language without the aidofa Teacher. Price 2s.

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30 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.

Price One Shilling, Monthly,
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THE BOOK AND ITS MISSIONS;

Dedicated to the British and Foreign Bible Society, and to the
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KNOWN—and finally to the PRoTESTANT countries, from whence it goes
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Tue Book anp irs Missions by historical and geographical details,
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“near home.” It is very suitable for circulation in ScHoots. While
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yet enjoys their unqualified recommendation, and much of the matter
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ready.

[86, Freer STREET, AND

|
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W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE, 31

INDEX.

Acting Charades Z -
Architectural Works
Arnold’s (Edwin) Poems .
Balance of Beauty .. .
Ball Room Polka... .
Preceptor ..
Beattie and Collins . .
Bertie’s Indestructible Treas
Bible Gallery . . - .°-
— Womenofthe. . .
Bingley’s Tales ..
Boat (The) and the Caravan
Blakey’s Angler’s Guide .
Bloxam’s Architecture .
Book andits Story . ..- -

Sot t 8 8 8. 8

ry

a evs SB Gea tte

— andits Missions... 25, 30

Boswell’s Johnson .. « « -»
Boyhood of Great Men... .
Boy Princes . . .
Boy’s Book of Modern Travel .
Boy’s Own Book . .

Brandon’s Architectural Works»
Bunyan’s Pilgrim’s Progress .
Byron Beauties’... 2°. - «
Capern’s Poems . . ..-. >
Capern’s Ballads... .
Cheever’s Whaleman’s Adventures
Child’s Drawing Books. .. .
Child’s First Lesson Book. . .
Christian Gracesin Olden Time
Christmas with the Poets...
Colling’s Gothic Architecture .
—_———_-——. Ornament. .
Comic Works 3 « . U3). 12%
Almanack . .. .

Comical Creatures from Wurtem-

Es CPM a Oe Mh
gE co be a
Story Books ..

Coster’s Lone, and other Poems q

Cottage Gardener's Dictionary .
Cowper’s Poems . .

Cracker Bon-Bon for Christm: as . ;
Crosland’s Memorable Women .
Cruikshank’s (Geo.) Works . .

Curiosities of Modern Travel. .
Wale LORNIS' ~.4«. <« «
Dictionaries .. ;
Domestic Architecture :
18 bi
Drawing Books .. .
Dreamland. . °
Edgar’s Boyhood of Great Men .

°
.
.
.
.

Oy hrmces se .)- «22s
—— History for Boys...

Fairy Library. 21

Footprints of Famous Men 18

—_——>—_

PAGE E
ge | Ecgar’s Heroes of England. . rer |

- %7| ——— Wars of the Roses Pr care j
- 9/ English withouta Master. . . . 29
- 26] Etiquette for the Ladies . . . . JI
ae © Gentiemen 2.5) 2°
- 11 | ——— ofCourtship . - a ee
- 5} Euclid, Symbolical . . 2. 24
. 21] Fabies’ of Zsop : 2 25 Ne
- 4] Footprints of Famous Men hd teed,
- 41 French Dictionary, Miniature . . 13
2 without a Master. . . . 29
7, 20 | Games for Christmas oath, CORP ED
. 27 | German withouta Master .. 29
- 8 | Glenny’s Handbook to Flower-garden 28
25 — Catecaism of Gardening 28
— Garden Almanac .. . 28
- 24 Glossary of Architecture . . . . 8
- 6 | Goldsmith’s Poetical Works $0) Ace
- 6 Goldsmith’s Works . .. 24
6, 19 | Gourmet’s Guide to Rabbit Cooking 27
- 19 | Graces, Gallery ofthe... .. 4
. 7 | Grimm's Household Stories . 1; #9
- 93&| Guizot’s | Young Student . 5 5: ap
- 38 | Gutch’s Scientific Pocket Book Aba. 57
- 10 | Handbook of Pencil Drawing . . 11
- 10) Harding’s Early Drawing Book . 93
- 20 | Harry’s Ladder to Learning on fa Ra ee
ae Book of Poetry. . . . . 21
- 20 | Health for the Million. . . . . 94
- 3 | Heath’s Waverley Gallery ... 3
» # |'Heroes of Asgard ©... 5 2) S|. Sp
- 8 | —— of England oer! Sot kes PSOE ORS
- 8! HeroinesofShakspeare .... 3
- 14 | Hervey'’s Meditations .°. . 5 , 4
« 4} Hints forthe Table . . 4° t 4 587
History for Boyso4..0° 24. Os ee
- 15 | Home Lesson Books. . . . . 19, 22
- 15 |———Story Books . . « » 2923
22 | How tomake Home Happy wi ek go tee
10 | Indestructible Lesson Books. . . 22
= 28 ——— Pleasure Books . . 22
- | Introd. to Gothic Architecture . . 8
- 10 | Italian Withouta Master. . . . 29
- 20 | Jerrold (Douglas) Lifeof. . , 5
- 14 | ——_————— Wit and Opinions of 27
Johnson’s Lives of the Poets. . , 24
- 7 | Julien’sStudiesof Heads .. . 23
2 80 Human Figure .... 23
. 13 | King’sInterest Tables . . . , . 24
- 8 | Ladies’ Drawing-Room Book . ., 26
- 27 | LanguageofFlowers . ... 4,11
- 23 | Latin Without a Master .... 29
- 1 | Lectures on the Great Exhibition . 12
-. 18: | Lionel Fitzgibbon. 2° 3. Ss 8F
Little Boy’s Own Book. . . . . 19
ALE Mary’s Books. /'cr o) . 0/2) teeee
erie Teeasnry's, <3. <a oe

PATERNOSTER a L—| . Se Lonpon, ]

32 W. KENT AND CO.’S CATALOGUE.
InpEx—Continued. |
PAGE PAGE
Little Mary’s Lesson Book . . . 21/| Reid’s(Capt.M) Young Voyageurs 17
Longfellow’s Poems. . . . . .2, 9|-——-— — Forest Exiles . 17
—————- Hyperion. . ~. ». « 2} ———— Bush-Boys. . 17
—. Golden Legend. . 2, 9| ————— Young Yigers 17
1G on eae — Plant Hunters 17
—- Prose Works . . . 10|——————-——— Ran away toSea. 17
Song of Hiawatha. . 9/ Relics of Genius ole hw inate Wekaee
——__——- Miles Standish . 3; 0 | Bival (The) Kings .. «0 © » ,«.0.20
Lorrin, and other Poems . . . . 10} Robinson Crusoe. - - 11,20
Loves of the Poets . - . . ~- ~. 1{ Romance of Modern Travel zat 7
Mackay’s (Charles) Egeria . . . 10! RoundGames . ..... 11
Town Lyrics LO TiS ACO ard = celle Wwe Wie’ oie clo dues eee
Manuals of Instruction. . . . . 22|Scott'sPoems....... 5
Massey's (G.) Babe Christabel . 9|Shadows . . 2 ows ll
—-— Craigcrook Castle . . - 10| Shakspeare, Heroines o: toys Wie 3
Burns (Robert) - 9| Shilling’s Worth of Sense. . . . ll
Mayhew’s Acting Charades 3 10| Shreds and Patches. . . oe cae
—_— Peasant'Boy Philosopher 18|Sidney Grey .. niyo ae 20
—— Sandboys’ Adventures , 15] Smith’s (Alex.) Poems... .. 49
— Wonders ofScience . . 18|———————— Sonnets on the War 9
Memoirs of the Queens of pore . 26 | Soyer (Alex.) Life of ine me 27
Men ofthe Time. . . - « « 95] Southey’s Life of Nelson ...... 7,20
Merrie Daysof England . - - 1J|Spanish without a Master. . .. 29
Merry Pictures . .... - - 2|Suggestionsin Design. . « whe
Mia and Charlie . . . - « - « 20| Taylor's (Jeff.) Young Islanders -/ 20
Miller’s Daughter . . .- 2|Tennyson’s Miller’s Daughter . . 2
Miller’s (T.) Poems for Children . 21|Thomson’s Seasons . ee
Milton’s Poetical Works . . 4 | Timbs’s Curiosities of London oo pay le
L’Allegro and Il Penseroso 2 Curiosities of History . . 16
Museum of Painting and Sculpture 4 Popuiar Errors. . 16
Musgrave’s Ramble in Normandy. 7 School Days of Eminent Men 16
National Magazine . . . . . . 30|}-—— Things Not Generally Known 16
Ogleby’s Adventures . ... . 15 Curiosities of Science . . 16
Oldbuck’s Adventures . . . ~~ 15 Painting Popularly Explained 16
Old Faces in New Masks . . . . 10|Traditionsof London. . .. . 10
Painters (The) of All Nations, His- Vegetable Kingdom. , . .. . 28
tory of. - » »« 25] Wars of the Roses . . ere «Ap |
Panoramic View of Palestine vaiereace'| WaverleyGallery. <<, \s \jeile cepad
Parlour Magic .. . » « « 10,20| Weather Book,the. .... . Il
Pellatt on Glass-making . . 4 | Webster (Daniel) Orations . . . 26
Phillips’s Etchings of Familiar Life 23 | Webster’s Quarto Dictionarfes . . 138
Poe’s Poetical Works . . . +. 9 Smaller Dictionary . . 13
Poetry ofthe Year . . «ats Williams’ s Euclid. . - 24
Portraits of Ladies of Distinction - 4] Winkles’s English ‘Cathedrals atts aad
Queens of Prussia, Memoirs of ae .- 26] Women ofthe Bible. . . rhe:
Raffaelle’s Cartoons. . Wonders ofTravel .. lo in ula
Recollections of a Detective. ” Se. Worsley’s Little Drawing Book... 23
cond Series S Vena | Wear Book+ofFacts.+. <% ui) fo heh oueke
Reid's (Capt. M. ) Desert Home. . 17 Young Lady’s Oracle . .... Ll
— Boy Hunters. . 17

TsoMAs HAaRRILD, Printer, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street, London.

i ————

86, Fuzzr STREET, AND PaTERNOSTER Row, Lonpon.

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