Handy Book on Pruning Grafting AND Budding By JAMES UDALE (Chief Horlicultural Instructor for Worcestershire) WITH INTRODUCTION BY THE RIGHT HON. VISCOUNT COBHAM i^OChSSING-ONH P 1 - D 1 5 1 U.B.C. LIBRARY 2/6 NETT I I'ili (0 o a: < z m c^ LIMBUX. LIMBUX is excellent for dry spraying. LIMBUX is excellent for dusting soil at planting and sowing time. LIMBUX gives to the GARDEN what health and youth give to life. LIMBUX ensures HEALTHY conditions, vigorous growth and plant stamina. LIMBUX is the most USEFUL form of LIME for smaller gardening operations, and can only be supplied by THE BUXTON LIME FIRMS CO., LTD., HEAD OFFICE: ROYAL EXCHANGE, BUXTON. Telephone : 312 Buxton. Telegrams : Buxton Lime, Buxton." Lime for Orchard Work, A SPECIAL DEPARTMENT UNDER SUPERVISION OF EXPERTS. London Of f ice : 11 QUEEN VICTORIA STREET Tslephone : 1504 Central. Telegrams: ' Buxtolim, London." Manchester Office - - - 79 PICCADILLY Telephone: 2982 Central. Telegrams : " Buxton Lime, Manchester. Liverpool Office - - 162 CROWN STREET Telephone : 919 Royal. Telegrams: "Buxton Lime, 162, Crown Stre:t, Liverpool. BRANCH AGENCIES EVERYWHERE. PESTIBUX Is dealing death to the soil pest and saving our food crops. PESTIBUX Is tlie most certain specific yet found for club- root, onion fly, carrot fly. maggot, caterpillars, slugs, beetles, and all the pests that attack growing plants in gardens, field or orchard. PESTIBUX Is a fine powder, and may be used as a dry spray or in water. Testimony of official agriculturists, farmers, gardeners, fruit growers, all strong and definite as to the efficacy of PESTIBUX M anil factu fed only by the Proprietors : PESTIBUX, Royal Exchange, Buxton. Telegrams: "Buxton Lime." Telephone 312. Agents in every Town in Great Britain. BORDOBUX. BORDOBUX Is the most certain specific yet found for POTATO BLIGHT and other such pests that attack growing crops in garden, field or orchard. BORDOBUX may be used as a dry spray or in water. BORDOBUX is manufactured only by the proprietors. Head Office Address: BORDOBUX, Royal Exchange, Buxton. Telegrams :-" BUXTON LIME." Telephone 312 BUXTON. KINNELL'S PUMPS AND GROWERS' HOSE LIST POST FREE. ^ .^ j> XL PUMP S^ ^^K y^ FOR LIFT AND FORCE WOf < N^yT^^ ^^ With Air Vesiel for contiL ^^ij^0^^ flow, and Brass Unions for i CHAS. p. KINNELL & Co. Ltd. SOUTHWARK STREET, LONDON, S.E.I. KING'S ACRE FRUIT TREES FOR ALL PURPOSES. Descriptive and Illustrated Catalogue ^. free on application ^ ^ KING'S ACRE NURSERIES, Ltd. HEREFORD. or MCDOUGALL'S KATAKILLA (NON-POISONOUS) ^ THE PERFECT INSECTICIDE. EFFECTIVE. READY FOR USE. Ji MCDOUGALL'S : 2 FRUIT TREE WASH ^ The Combined Insecticide and Fungicide. •H POLVO (NON-POISONOUS) The most Economical Wash for Large Commercial Fruit Growers. OSTICO The most Scientific, Effective and Economical Banding for Fruit Trees. ARSENATE OF LEAD PASTE Finely divided. Very adhesive. ARBORETAS Winter Wash. A Quick Cure for Scab. LIME-SULPHUR WASH, 1.300. A Fungicide for Winter Use. WRITE FOR CATALOGUE- McDOUGALL & YALDING, Ltd., YALDING, KENT. GARDEN AND FIELD TOOLS. ., VAUGHAN BROTHERS. Birmingham, THESE TOOLS ARE NOTED FOR THEIR HAKDINESS AND GOOD WEARING QUALITIES. r OBTAINABLE FROM ALL IRONMONGERS. Fifth Edition. on ll>runiiu3, Graftino anb Bubbtno By JAMES UDALE (Chief Horticultural Instructor for Worcestershire since 1891). Author of " Chrysantheinniiis— Their History and Citltix-atiou," '' Gardening for All," '' Practical Hints on Vegetable Fanning," " The Handy Book on Pruning," and " The Handy Book on Pruning, Grafting and Budding." PRICE TWO SHILLINGS AND SIXPENCE NETT. 1921. Printed and Published by W. & H. S.TJITH Limited, Journal Press, Evesham London: Simpkin Marshall Hamilton Kent & Co., I-td , Stationers' Hall Court, E.C. AUTHOR'S NOTE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. 'T^HE continued appreciation of the ' '; modest effort to promote a better and wider knowledge of Pruning, etc., is tViost encouraging ; and in presenting to the pubhc the Fifth Edition — which has been revised and enlarged — it is hoped that it may serve as a text book, be received with undiminished favour, and continue to give unmeasured pleasure and satisfaction. J.U. December, 1921. To THE REVEREND F. R. LAWSON, RECTOR OF FLADBURY (FORMERLY VICAR OF CLENT AND OF PERSHORE). AND LATE CHAIRMAN OF THE HORTICULTURAL INSTRUCTION COMMITTEE FOR THE COUNTY OF WORCESTER. TO WHOSE WISE COUNSEL AND DIRECTION FOR MANY YEARS THE SUCCESSFUL HORTICULTURAL INSTRUCTION GIVEN IN THE COUNTY WAS LARGELY DUE. AND FROM WHOM THE AUTHOR HAS AT ALL TIMES RECEIVED MUCH KINDNESS AND HELPFUL GUIDANCE,, THIS BOOK IS, WITH KIND PERMISSION RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE PRUNING —The Principles of pruning —Production of wood — Pruning for form — Pruning for restriction — To produce more and better fruit... ... ... ... ... ... 8 CHAPTER II. The practice of pruning ... ... ... ... ... 19 CHAPTER III. The Apple — First year's pruning — Second year's pruning — Third year's pruning — Pruning bush or pyramidal apple trees ... 26 CHAPTER IV. Pear — Plum — Peach — Nectarine — Apricot — Cherry ... ... 48 CHAPTER V. Currants: Black currant — Red currant — White currant— Pink currant — Gooseberry — Raspberry — Blackberry (American and English) — Logan-Berry — Japanese Wineberry — Vine (grape) 71 CHAPTER VI. Root-pruning — Disbudding — Summer pruning — Red, white and pink currants ... ... ... -.. ... ... 87 CHAPTER VII. Roses — The pruning of roses — Hybrid Chinese — Hybrid Bourbon — Evergreen roses — Cluster roses — Noisette roses — Tea-scented roses— Hybrid tea-scented roses — Hybrid Perpetual roses ... 102 CHAPTER VIII. Flowering trees and shrubs — Small trees and flowering shrubs — Spring flowering shrubs — Shrubs not requiring pruning, but simply removal of old wood — Large flowering trees not re- quiring pruning — Pruning spireas ... ... ... 114 CHAPTER IX. GRAFTING — The Principles of Grafting — Conditions of Success in Grafting — Implements, etc. ; Wax and Tying Material — Affinity and Mutual Vigour of Parts ... ... ... 118 CHAPTER X. Methods of Grafting — Tongue Grafting — Saddle Grafting — Cleft Grafting — Notch Grafting — Crown Grafting ... ... 126 CHAPTER XI. BUDDING— Pears— Dwarf Roses— Removal of the Bud ... 138 INTRODUCTION TO THE FIRST EDITION, PUBLISHED IN 1905. TV iTR. UDALP2 scarcely requires an introduction -*-^-^ to the gardening public. He is well known as the chief Horticultural Instructor for Worcester- shire since 1891, and the author of many works and reports on the cultivation of flowers, fruit and vegetables As regards the management of allotments and cottage gardens, Mr. Udale's work may be said to have been that of a pioneer, and after so many years of lecturing, demonstrations and visits to some thousands of gardens, his experience must be regarded as unrivalled, and his authority beyond question. The present work deals with a branch of horticulture which is often imperfectly understood, although a thorough knowledge of it is absolutely essential to success No operation is less speculative in its results than good pruning, or more quickly and certainly productive of good results, enhancing not only the profits but the pleasure of horticulture. On the other hand, unskilled pruning or neglect of pruning causes mischief that cannot be repaired, and undoubtedly reduces the annual produce of orchards and cottage gardens to a degree which must in many cases extinguish all chance of profit. For it cannot be too strongly insisted upon in these days of keen competition and low prices, that profit from the cultivation of the land is not to be expected unless both industry and skill are employed. . . . Skill, undoubtedly, can be acquired by practice and experience, and cannot be perfected without them. But to learn from one's own mistakes is an expensive process, especially in the department of pruning, where one mistake may effect the productiveness of a valuable tree for the rest of Its life. The fewer mistakes, therefore, the better, and it is with this truth in mind that this little book is written, for the benefit chiefly, but not exclusively, of beginners, amateurs and untrained gardeners, and I recommend it most cordially to their attention. COBHAM. v^ « % 1 A f\-«^" Sr-^ - Standard Apple Tree, ' Maltster," in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich. CHAPTER I. THE PRINCIPLES OF PRUNING. ii TT is impossible to instruct any person in pruning JL by merely showing him how to do the work on a given plant ; for the very next plant may present a new set of problems," says L. H. Bailey in " The Pruning Book." How true is that statement all teachers of Pruning well know. Professor Bailey further says : " Of all the operations connected with the growing of trees and shrubs, pruning and training bring the person into closest contact and sympathy with the plant." The italics are mine. In those italicised words we have one of the secrets of success in all plant culture generally, as well as in pruning. In the following pages I .hope to make easier the path of the pruner, and to give to him light where at present there is darkness. And although this small effort at education in pruning fruit trees is mainly in- tended for the cottage gardener and the amateur, yet it may also furnish hints for the help and guidance of those more advanced in the art. There are various reasons for pruning fruit trees, among which are the following: — To promote the production of more growth. To induce a tree to grow in a certain form. To remove superfluous wood and injured part. To restrict a tree to a certain space. To produce more and better fruit. To admit light and air to leaves and fruit. THE PRODUCTION OF WOOD. The first object at which we aim when pruning" 3 young tree is that of the production of wood, and we adopt means to induce it to grow vigorously. But there is some difference of opinion as to the right time for prunmg recently-planted fruit trees. Apple, 'Early Rivers. Grafted on Apple Stock, April, 1900. Pruned at ABC, February, 1901. From a Photograph. Some gardeners prune tlie trees almost as soon as they are planted, no matter when that may be. Others wait until the sap is in circulation and the buds become plump, and even bursting into growth. There are other 10 gardeners who leave the trees iinpruned for a year and then prune them severely, i.e., back into old wood of two or three years' growth. In the first case injin-y sometimes occurs because the operator has not been able to select the strong buds from the weak, and he has cut back to an imperfect bud. The usual result is weak and unsatisfactory growth; and sometimes the death of the tree. Those who leave the trees unpruned for a year and then cut to old wood, lose a year's growth. In this case the practitioners, claim that the trees grow so vigorously during the second year, that the amount of wood obtained Apple, ' Earlv Rivers.' Grafted on Apple Stock, April, 1900. Shewing its rate of growth at the end of 1902. From a Photograph. IL more than balance the loss of growth during the Hrbt year. This claim, in my opinion, and according to my experience and observation, is not substantiated : although I think the trees make good growth, and I have seen many acres so treated since 1891. The " happy mean " is in this, as in many other practices and affairs of life, the best: and this is practised by those who defer pruning until the sap is in circulation. Apple, ' Early Rivers Grafted on Apple Stock, April, 1900. Shewing the tree at the end of 1903. From a Photograph 12 and the buds swelling- and expanding in due season after the trees are planted. Cultivators who adopt this system of pruning- newly-planted young trees, commence the operation at the time when almost every bud exhibits the measure of its vitality and its capacity for producing a strong growth under suitable conditions. Having selected the best and rightly placed bud, the shoot should be cut aw^ay just above that bud; and by doing this the number of subsequent shoots or branches are fewer than they would have been, more food is available for them, and there is luxuriant growth as the result. If the tree possessed three branches before being pruned, it will have six to nine at the end of the first season, two. three, or four feet in length; and corres- pondingly increased growth — as much as three, five, or eight feet, in case of certain varieties of Plums — during tlie second year of growth.^ This practice and principle of pruning avoids the defects of the first and third periods mentioned, and combines the good qualities of the three. Professor Bailey mentions the following points in regard to pruning for the production of wood, and 1 think nearly all experienced pruners will agree with him : — r. "Heavy pruning of the top of a plant tends to increase the production of wood." 2. " Heavy pruning of the top tends to rejuvenate weak or declining plants." 3. " A pruned plant tends to resume its natural habit." * Trees which have lost nearly all their roots from any cause ; or which are transferred from warm and dry soil to wet and cold soil may frequently be better for being left un-pruned for a season until they have recovered their root system and free circulation of sap. 13 Apple, 'Early Rivers' Grafted on Apple Stock, April, 1900. Shewing the tree at the end of 1904, ; • From a Photograph. 14 PRUNING FOR FORM. Our second object is to make a tree grow to the desired form. This the expert pruner can do according to his pleasure. Generally, any given tree can be made to grow in any desired form, within certain limitations; the process will be easy or difficult to accompHsh in proportion to the natural habit of the individual tree. The stock will exercise a special influence over fruit trees. But whether the tree is to be a standard, half- standard, pyramid, bush, cordon, espalier, fan-trained, or palmette-verrier, each form is given to the tree by the proper use of the knife. Having decided upon the form the tree is desired to take, we commence with the proper style of pruning and build up the tree from year to year until it is furnished with the requisite number of main branches — and secondary branches in some cases — to form the perfect tree. Our thi^d object is to remove superfluous wood and injured part of a tree. This consists of cutting out a misplaced or crossing branch, any branch for which there is not sufficient space in which it can amply expose its leaves to the very necessary influence of light and air. and any branch rubbing against another to their mutual detriment. A.lso the removal of dead and dying branches, diseased growth, dead " snags," and any other unhealthy and injurious part. PRUNING FOR RESTRICTION is at once very easy and very difficult. Is is easy to cut the branches back annually to a certain point, and at the same time to render a tree incapable of bearing fruit, and very ugly and objectionable. It is difficult to give the necessary amount of pruning and at the same time prevent overcrowding of shoots and spurs; but it can be accompHshed. The method will vary with the nature of the tree under operation, but usually the treat- ment will come under one of two heads : Either to cut back to a young shoot at the point of limit nearer the stem, as in the case of the Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot; or to cut to a spur at the point of limit and to thin out the shoots and subsequent spurs, as ni the case of Apples, Pears and Plums; and sometimes a modification of both methods will best meet the requirements of the latter fruits. TO PRODUCE MORE AND BETTER FRUIT is our fifth and very important object in pruning fruit trees; and the sixth and most important object is to admit hght and air to all the leaves and fruit, because a deficiency of either air or light is always injurious to the welfare of a grovv^ng tree. 1 . A tree must be perfectly healthy to be able to produce the largest amount of fruit for the longest period of time. 2. The health of a tree depends upon the adequate supply of available food, air and light. 3. The tree must be able to properly utihze the perfect food, light and air. 4. It should receive suitable climatic conditions in regard to heat, water and shelter, and be protected from injury by animals, in- sect and fungoid pests. With regard to the first condition we well know that an unhealthy tree — from whatever cause — is often very fruitful; but' we' also know that the fruit from such i6 tree, when growing- under normal conditions in other respects, is often inferior in quality, and the tree is comparatively short lived ; therefore such tree does not comply with the first condition. The second condition is not complied with w^hen a tree is deprived of food by adjacent trees; or of light and air by trees and buildings near to them; or when ' / i, "^ i 1^ A jV 1 i / / vWl 1 -^ V wlM I i { f 1 1 \J V^ \u ^ jl/J J l/iJ / J / W^ m Bl Apple, ' Early Rivers.' Grafted on Apple Stock, April, 1900. After being pruned in March, 1905. From a Photograph. i; the- soil is deficient in available food, or water to dissolve and dilute it sufficiently to freely enter the root-hairs and outer-cells. Apple, ' Reineite Van Alons,' to shew the effects of non-pruning. Branches too crowded, and the fruit small in quantity and inferior in quality. Planted 1896 in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich. From a Photograph. i8 The third condition is helped or hindered by proper pruning or by non-pruning. Apples, Pears, Plums and Currants in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich, annually demonstrate that unpruned trees are the most fruitful for a few years; after which the properly pruned trees rapidly overtake and surpass them, and the fruit is at all times larger and better in all respects, and realises considerably better prices when sold. The fourth condition is absent when fruit trees are planted without shelter at the top of a hill; and with- out protection from animals or left to the ravages of insect foes, and the not less destructive effects of mildew, canker, moss and lichen. CHAPTER II. THE PRACTICE OF PRUNING. IX pruning a tree for the purpose of promoting the production of fruit, the operator must remember the substance, and understand the true significance of the principles previously mentioned. The good pruner first aims at building up a tree and renderirg it capable of bearing (without serious injury to itself) large crops of fine fruit in future years; to do this he should prune almost entirely for the pro- duction of wood during the first four or five years of the life of the tree. And although he does this, many varieties of trees will produce fruit in the second or third year; others are not so precocious. Many persons are too anxious to obtain fruit from young trees, the result being premature weakness, stunted growth, and a poorly developed specimen of its kind. Moreover, the total amount of fruit it produces during its shortened and unhealthy life is below the normal and the quality is inferior. ]Much depends upon "he way the cuts are made when pruning, the length of wood to be left, and the bud to be seelcted for the production of the leading branch and of its subsequent continuation. Some pruners have a fixed idea that every young shoot (or preceding year's growth) upon each tree should be cut in such a manner that a certain number of inches of wood are left: and they usually think that it is quite im- material as to the exact point at which the shoot should 20 Tk^o^'^ 21 be severed or in what direction. Others use more correct judgment in regard to the amount of the young wood to be removed; but they also make the cuts wrongly, and leave wounds that do not so quickly heal as the vigour of the trees renders them capable of healing, or cover- C C C are flower-buds of a Pear tree. D is a wood-bud. A and B is the line of direction for pruning. F is the shoct after pruning ; the cut having been made at E. 22 ing with new tissue. Others err through laint heartedness and do not prune sufficiently. Each tree — no matter what kind, or variety of the same kind — must be deah with on its own merit, though the same rules of pruning apply equally to all. Pear, ' Winter Nelis,' shewing where a branch has been properly cut away at A. Right Pruning. 23 1 he following- rules may be helpful to the reader : — 1. Cut back^ one-year-old wood to a bud pointing in the direction in which the subsequent ehoot is desired grow. 2. All branches should be severed close to the branch or stem from which they grow, when they have to be entirely removed. Shewing a bad and "spawled" cut at A. Wrong Pruning. M 3. In cutting- a branch one year old down to a wood bud. insert the edge of the knife behind, and abovit one-twelfth of an inch above the bud, and bring it out in front and slightly above the bud. 4. The angle of every wound, large or small, should be an obtuse or nearly right angle, in • order that the surface of the wound may not retain moisture. 5. In all cases, when cutting to a bud care should be taken to cut to a zvood bud and not a fruit bud. if it is desired to extend the branch at that point. 6. Every wound should have a perfectly smooth surface; and large w^ounds should be painted. 7. W hen amputating a branch by means of a saw, always first cut the under side of the branch, then proceed with the sawing at the top side of the branch, by this method of procedure " spawhng '' or tearing of the stem (or branch) downwards will be pre- vented. (S. All large wounds should be painted over or dressed w^ith creosote or Stockholm tar, or other preservative, such as paint, tar, etc. Standard Apple Tree, ' Beauty of Kent,' in the E Droitwic'h. Planted 1S96. Photograph 1908. Crop 19S lbs Crop in 1912 ... 448 lbs perimental Garden, CHAPTER III. THE APPLE. THE Apple tree is usually grown as a standard, pyramid, bush, espalier, and cordon; sometimes it is trained as a goblet and grid-iron. It is the principal hardy fruit of the British Isles, and is cultivated largely as a standard tree. Although the bulk of our home-grown supply is derived from standard trees* I think it is indisputable that the best apples are produced by dwarf trees. Apple trees grown as large standards in orchards and gardens, should be boldly pruned during their early years of growth, after being planted where they are intended to remain for life In nearly all cases it is correct procedure to cut out the central shoots. A tree which appears to be in- adequately furnished with branches at two years after planting, is often overcrowded with branches after a lapse of four years ; hence the necessity for the apparently extreme pruning in the earlier years of its life. More- over, neglected or inadequately-pruned young trees become out of balance — which is detrimental to their vigour — as well as crowded, and the fruit they produce is frequently deficient in size and colour. 2? FIRST YEAR'S PRUNING. In proceeding- to prune a young standard tree, and having regard to what has been previously advised as to deferring the operation until the sap is in circulation, first remove the central branch, then cut clean away any Bu^h' Apple, ' I.ord Grosvenor.' Four years after planting. 28 weak secondaiy shoots from among the leinaiiiiiig branches, and any other branch which may be superliu- ous. The branches that remain will then radiate from the centre and at equal distance from each other. Xow prune those branches to a strong wood-bud on the leading shoot; and that bud must be on the side of the shoot which faces in the direction in which the branch should he continued, in order to form a well- shaped and well-balanced tree. Prune each young branch in the same manner, and thus form a good frame- work for the tree. Each of the branches will not be exactly of the same length after they are pruned if they have been properly pruned; and perhaps it may even look more irregular and ill-balanced than it did before being pruned, they often do, but the subsequent growth soon produces an even balance. As the Spring advances and growth becomes active, some very small and weak growth will manifest itself on the lower part of the branches and near the centre of the tree. These growths should be entirely removed by the hand, or finger and thumb. They are useless, and even injurious. If they are not easily re- moved by finger and thumb, they should be removed by the aid of a sharp knife; and these worthless growths should be removed as frequently as they re-appear. SECOND YEAR'S PRUNING. The tree will now be furnished with six to nine good branches, and some secondary branches which are not required for the formation or building of the tree. There will also be some small shoots near the base of 29 the main branches; these may be cut back to two buds for the purpose of forming fruit-spurs, and be aUowed to bear fruit during the third year after planting. Bush Apple, ' Ecklinville Seedling. Four years after planting. 30 Secondary branches, to which I have alluded, should be cut away in the manner described in Rule 2; but if there is space about there for a fruit-spur, it may be cut back according to Rule 3. Usually it is better to keep the lowest parts of the branches of standard trees of Apples and Pears quite clear of small growth or spurs; but occasionally, and wnth certain varieties, an exception may be made to that procedure. It now remains to again shorten the main branches with a view to (a) their further extension in the right direction, and to strengthen them; and (b) to promote the production of one or more furnishing branches to fill spaces that require filling in order to form a perfect tree. Each leading shoot or branch shc>uld be pruned according to its own strength, and cut down to the best bud as at the first year's pruning; usually the space or length of wood between that bud and the point of severance the preceding year will be found to be several inches longer than that which was left at the first year's pruning. ■:-,JlT^ THiqji^EAR'S PRUNING Standard fruit trees are either " made or marred " during the first three or four years after they are planted in their permanent positions. If badly pruned, or not pruned during that period, the evil is not likely to be entirely removed at any subsequent time. At the third annual winter pruning the pruner will be able to give the finishing touches to the outlines of nearly all the trees which he has attempted to form V Standard Apple, ' Maltster. Four years after planting. 32 and fashion. A few trees, owing- to their natural habit are not so amenable to general treatment as the others and to them must be given a httle more time an attention. Perhaps they are slender in habit (long an- thin wood), or very erect and dense. Scarlet Crofton is a representative of the former, and Gloria Mundi of the latter. Scarlet Crofton requires to have the main branches shortened more severely for a longer period, accompanied by judicious thinning-out where the slender shoots are too numerous. Gloria Mundi must have the central branches removed time after time, and the re- maining branches considerably shortened just as often in order to obtain a tree sufficiently open in centre and the branches spreading, thus producing a tree of medium breadth with nicely separated branches, instead of a very narrow and dense tree. In pruning the majority of the trees the third year there will not be so many branches requiring removal. Probably one or more secondary branches are growing towards the centre of the tree; they must be cut cleanly aw^ay. Several of the same kind are almost certain to be found among the permanent branches, and they must be removed, unless any of them are required to fill a space which could not be filled before, and thus become a main branch. Small shoots may be shortened to one or two buds for the formation of fruit spurs where they are required; others should be entirely removed. The leading shoots of the main branches may, or may not, be better for shortening more or less; this must be left to the judgment of the pruner, who will be guided by his knowledge of the natural habit of the variety of Standard Apole, 'Gloria Mundi.' with very erect habit of growth,. To shew the necessity of cutting back the main branches, and of keeping an open centre with that variety, and other varieties of a similar habit. Planted in 1896 in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich. From a Photograph. 34 the tree. A very robust variety may not require to be again shortened. A less strong-growing variety will, perhaps, be better for having one-third the length of the shoot removed. And a rather weak-growing variety will be better for having its leading shoots cut back half their length; but the tree should be pruned if the pruner has any doubt about it. Pruning in subsequent years will consist of a modification of the pruning previously described, viz. : — The judicious removal of a superfluous, misplaced, or crossing branch; shortening or entire removal of second- ary or small branches; attention to the leading shoot in the matter of shortening or of allowing it to remain un- shortened; and the removal of dead parts. Care must he taken in all cases to cut to a bud pointing in the direction in which the subsequent shoot is desired to grow. A word of warning should here be given about the peculiar habit of certain varieties of Apples to produce fruit, almost exclusively, at the end of short branches — branches from four to ten or twelve inches long; there- fore, if these branches be pruned in the usual manner, the fruit-bearing part will be cut away. The following varieties are a few^ of those which have the above nature : Irish Peach, Scarlet Crofton (Crofton Scarlet), Maltster, The Queen, Grand Duke Constantine, and Baumann's Red Reinette. And in a less degree: — Worcester Pear- main, Ecklinville SeedUng, Bismarck, and New Haw- thornden. 35 PRUNING BUSH OR PYRAMIDAL APPLE TREES. A pyramidal tree usually has a central leading' branch. This central branch or stem is annually shortened to a suitable bud, and as the subsequent growth from that bud extends, it is trained straight upward, until the maximum height of the tree is attained. If the pruner commences with what is called a " maiden " tree. i.e.. a tree of one year's growth from the graft " or " bud." and therefore a tree which has not before been pruned— he will cut the shoot or shoots (there may be more than one shoot, or branch from the '■ graft." or '' scion," or "' bud " placed upon the " stock '' when the latter was grafted or budded) down to within three or four good buds from the point of origin. From those buds he will obtain three or four shoots, each varying in strength, during the first year after pruning. On 24th March, 1906. a numl)er of young bush Plum Trees were planted in the Experimental Garden at Droitwich, and these were pruned on ist May. The growth of certain of these trees, which shewed an average of growth for the year of 1906. was measured during the following winter of 1906-7 — all growth of less than 9 inches in length being excluded from measure- ment— and the aggregate growth upon each tree was as follows : Kirk's. 2>- ^^et 9 inches: Monarch. 25 feet 8 inches; Smith's Purple ProHfic, 24 feet 5 inches: Prince of Wales, 19 feet 6 inches: Pershore. 27 feet 3 inches.' xA.t the end of 1907 the growth of the same trees was again measured, and with the following aggregate re- 36 Bush Apple. ' Ecklinville Seedling." after producing three-and-a-half bushels of Apples of first-class quality in 1904. After pruning. Planted in 1896 in the Experimental Garden. Droitwich. From a Photograph 37 suits growth of less than 9 inches in length being again excluded from measurement : — Kirke's, 101 feet 5 inches; Pershore, 95 feet i inch; Smith's Purple Prolific, 92 feet 8 inches; Prince of Wales, 81 feet 2 inches; Monarch, 71 feet I inch. We thus have five Plum Trees of different varieties, and under the same normal treatment (no mulching- or watering) and pruned the same season as being planted, and after being pruned a second time, making in two years an aggregate growth as follows : — Kirke's, 141 feet 2 inches; Pershore, 122 feet 4 inches; Smith's Purple Prolific, 117 feet i inch; Prince of Wales, 100 feet 8 inches; Monarch, 96 feet 9 inches; notwith- standing growth of less than 9 inches in length had been excluded. This as a result of pruning in the correct way and at the right time. At the second year's pruning those branches will be pruned, each according to its capacity, to produce two or more branches. The strongest branch should be usually cut least severely, but sufficiently to cause it to develop the good buds left for the purpose of produc- ing good growth. The Branch less strong should be pruned a little more severely, also for the purpose of obtaining good growth therefrom. And the weaker branch — if it is capable of producing satisfactory growth subsequently — should be cut back most severely; in each case cutting to the best and rightly-placed bud. Any shoot incapable of producing good growth should be cut entirely away at this pruning. More care is required in pruning the tree at the end of the third year, because there is then a superfluity of branches, and some must be entirely removed (see Apple, ■ Lord Gros\enor,' in flower 11th Mav, 19CG. Crop in 1904—167 lbs. Planted 1896 in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich. 39 Rules 2 and 6). The branches to be removed are those which are not required to form a perfect and symmetri- cal tree, and all those which are o\-ercrowding. Some small shoots near the base of the branches may be cut to form spurs. The pruning- after the fourth year's i^rowth is similar to that for the third year: adding new branches as the tree increases in height ; removing superfluc-us branches; and shortening, to form spurs, some of the small shoots as they grow on the annually extending branches. Having obtained a good and well-shaped tree, and a tree in a fruitful condition — as it now should be— the operator must exercise care annually to promote healths- growth and secure free access of light and air to all the leaves and all parts of the tree above the soil. To this end he should avoid cutting the leading branches too severely, and he should keep the branches well apart from each other : two feet apart at four feet from the centre of the tree is a satisfactory distance in the case of strong growing varieties ; and eighteen inches in the case of less robust varieties; but if size and colour are desired, then more space should be given. BUSH TREES are treated similarly to pyramidal trees, with the difference that an open centre should be maintained instead of a central stem. Therefore, the central growths ought to be removed at the second winter- pruning, and the centre be kept clear at all times. ' HALF-STx\XDARD trees should be pruned in the same way as Standard trees. The heicfht of the stem - 40 three to four feet, instead of five to six feet, in the case of standards— constitutes the only difference between them. CORDON TREES— double cordon or single cordon — are limited to one or two stems. The side shoots or branches are not allowed to extend, but are annually cut back to spurs. The spurs should be thinned when they become crowded; an average of nine inches between the spurs being nearly correct. Proper root- pruning prevents too much growth and promotes fertility. GOBLET or CUP-SHAPED trees may be easily formed out of a dwarf or bush tree, after two years' prun- ing'. Insert into the ground, at a distance from the stem of tree equal to the diameter of the desired Goblet or Cup — usually two feet from the < stem — three durable stakes, equidistant apart. To these stakes, which should be quite vertical, fasten three hoops of wood or iron; the first hoop at fifteen inches from the soil, the second hoop fifteen inches higher than the first, and the third hoop fifteen inches higher than the second. That will be sufficient framework for a tree four feet six inches high, and when covered with branches to that height will represent a very proportionate Goblet or Cup. Cut away all the central part of the tree or four- year-old bush; reserve as many of the outside branches as may be required to furnish the outline of the Goblet with branches at fifteen inches apart all around, and cut the smaller branches to one or two buds to form fruiting spurs. Probably some force and manipulation will be 41 required at first to get the branches into their proper positions, but if they be firmly tied there the chief difficulty will be overcome. The subsequent details of pruning will consist of shortening the leading shoot to a bud which will produce a shoot which will grow in a vertical direction, and low Half-Standard Apple, ' Betsy Geeson,' after producing three bushels of Apples of good quality in 1904. Planted March, 1898. in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich. From a Photograph. 42 enough to cause the development of side growth. The latter to be annually cut back to one or two buds, and thus to form fruit spurs. ESPALIER TREES are easily obtanied hy I)runing and a little training. The most important point to remember is that three good shoots must be obtained in the right positions each year until the tree has attained its maximum height. The loss of buds, from various causes, sometimes creates a serious difficulty, and the nearest suitable branch may be many inches away. This is unfortunate, and an imperfectly shaped and trained tree must either be accepted, or the branch must be obtained at the right place by budding or shield-grafting at that point, or by carefully training a young branch in the space to be filled. A young espalier-trained tree should have a central or leading branch, and one or more pairs of side branches growing at a right aiigle from the stem, and nearly Oj-tposite each other. The uninitiated pruner may be puzzled to know liow to obtam the concurrent growth of the three branches necessary to continue the formation of the perfect tree. Examination of the central branch will reveal four or five buds within a space of three or four inches, and about ten to fourteen inches above the last horizontal branches. If the operator stands exactly opposite the tree, he will see a bud exactly facing him at the height mentioned; and he will also observe a bud on the right and another on the left and below that central bud. There he has the means of obtaining the three desired branches. He will cut tHe shoot down to the bud exactlv 43 Cordon Apple Trees. Part of a row in the Experimental Ciarden. Droitwich. To show habit of growth and stvle of pruning. ' ^ From a Photoijraph. Cordjn-trained Apple. ' Stirling Castle,' in Experimental Garden. Droitwich, 1907. 45 opposite to him, and he will at once have clone all that is necessary at the time. The bnd to which he pruned will continue to grow straight upward ; the buds below on the right and left also produce shoots, and the three shoots may be assisted to grow (with a little tyingi in the direction desired : one vertically and two horizontally. The above procedure should be continued annually until the tree has attained its maximum height, or the height allotted to it. The horizontal branches should be annually pruned to a bud — a good one — on the lower side of the one-year-old wood (the wood of the previous season). The young growth naturally rises and a more perfectly straight branch will be obtained with less trouble than would be the case if the shoot were cut to a bud on the upper side. But there is no luialterable rule for the foregoing practice, which may be altered to meet the requirements of the varying character of the trees and of their branches. Sometimes it will be better to prune to a bud on the upper side of the shoot, and sometimes to a bud on the face of the shoot exactly opposite the pruner, and which buds are termed '' fore-right '' buds. The efficient pruner will be master of the situation and he will cause the buds and trees to do according to his will. 46 Apple ' Pott's Seedling,' after producing two and three-quarter bushels of Apples of first-class quality in 1904. After pruning. Planted November, 1896, in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich. From a Photograph. 47 Apple, ' Loddington Seedling," shewing style of pruning Standard Apple Trees. Planted 1896 in the Experimental Garden. Droitwich. From a Photograph. T CHAPTER IV. THE PEAR. HE pruning of standard pear trees in their early stages of growth will be the same as for apple trees grown in that manner; with the slight ex- cei)tion that the natural habit of the pear tree is moie erect than that of the apple. Consequently, it is not good policy to try to force the pear tree out of its natural habit; but to allow it to assume its proper shape within modified limits. When the trees have attained their fruit-bearing stage, they should be annually inspected, and any wrongly-placed, overcrowding, and crossing branch or branches be removed. Aged trees, both of the pear and the apple, occasionally require the amputation of a large branch: and often there is no possibility of the surface of the wound being covered by new tissue, owing to weakness arising from age and other causes. In such cases it would be an error to sever the bough close to the stem, as advised for trees sufficiently vigorous to quickly heal the wound. Because then the wood shrinks, water would be retained, and decay quickly become established: and in due time there would 1)e a hollow-stemmed and decrepit tree. In a case of this kind a stump should be left from three to six inches in length, according to the diameter of the branch and probable life of the tree : and thus ■m^^ 15 5r^^^ 50 the stem will be preserved from hoUowness and decay for many years, if not for the whole life of the tree. The stump should be cut with a slope from above to- W'ards the stem below, thus preventing the lodgment of water thereon. Paint the surface of all large wounds. Part of a Bush Apple Tree, ' Red Ingestre,' planted in 1896 Neither pruned or sprayed at any time, and shewing branches covered with American blight. From a Photograph. no matter whether they will, or will not, be with new woody tissue. Use Stockholm tar, paint, creosote, or common tar as agents for servative purpose. TRAINED TREES will require more than the removal of superfluous or misplaced branches. Bush trees and pyramidal trees ought to have their main covered red lead this pre- pruning" Pear, ' Citron des Carmes,' Espalier-trained. Planted 1897. Produces good crops annually. From a Photograph. branches eighteen to twenty-four inches apart from each other. The spurs on those branches should be quite six inches apart; and as they increase in age and size they should be thinned out to that distance by means of the knife or saw. and the wounds be made perfectly smooth. A^-' -^**?*^.- ^^^^^^^^^^^V V % Pear, ' Doyenne du Cornice,' in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich, 1907. ' Crop— 90 lbs. 54 The young side-growth formed during the previous growing season, or wliat was left at the summer-prun- ing, should then be cut back to the best and rightly- placed l.md. If the Ijranch has attained the maximum length or limit permissible the leading shoot should be treated in a similar manner; but if the tree has not attained its limits, or covered the space available, then the l)ranch may be allowed to extend, and the leading shoot be left six, nine, or twelve inches in length — in proportion as it may be a weak or a strong shoot. Other forms of trained pear trees — whether espalier, cordon, palmette verrier or fan-trained — should have the main branches kept at" least a foot apart; and the spurs should be pruned in a manner similar to those upon the bush trees and pyramidal trees. No spurs should be allowed to grow bclzvccii a branch and the wall: neither is it usual to see them on the front of the Ijranches, but they are usually left alternately on the upper and lower sides — at about seven or eight inches apart — of well-trained trees. THE PLUM. Though probably all varieties of plum trees are Letter for pruning, there can be small doubt that it should be carried out with considerable discretion. Many varieties bear freely upon last year's wood, and when trees have been planted several years and grown freely, there is a very great temptation to allow them to bear all the fruit they offer and to not prune them. If vigorous, long-lived and well-formed trees are desired the temptation to leave them unpruned must be resisted; Pear. • Clapps Favounte/ in the Experimental Garden. Dro.twich. 190: Crop— 110 lbs. 50 but if the sole object is to obtain the most fruit in the shortest space of time, even to the exhaustion of the trees as well as to the destruction of their good appear- ance, then the reduction of the crop by pruning need not be considered. Pear, ' Williams' Bon Chretien.' Planted 1908. .Se/ore Pruning. From a Photograph. 0/ And I may liere offer a few remarks about fruit culture by " express/' Probably there is no system of fruit culture so easy or so simple. The inexperienced think that extraordinary knowledge and skill are re- quired; that is not so. It consists simply of taking all the fruit possible from a plant in the shortest space of Pear, ' Williams' Bon Chretien.' Planted 1898. After Pruning. From a Photograph 5« time, to its complete exlianstion; destroying that plant or those plants ; and replacing them by others to undergo the same process. This system has been adopted with cucumbers for about sixty years, and more recently with vines for the production of grapes. The same may be done with hardy fruits in the open if the owner so desires. He has only to decide whether he will exhaust and replace his trees every five, ten, or twenty years, or whether he will not. Whether he would prefer an average weight of ten, twenty or forty pounds of fruit for five, ten, or twenty years from trees half their normal size as a result of severe root and branch prun- ing: or whether he would rather have forty, eighty, or one hundred and sixty pounds of fruit annually for a larger number of years from trees grown to a full average size- -which is somewhat different to "Cucum- ber-growing by express " though connected in principle. It is well to remember that a stunted tree — ^from whatever cause — bearing 4olbs. of fruit appears to have more fruit than a tree twice as large, and bearing loolbs. of fruit; but many persons are deceived thereby, and it is only by careful annual weighing that the truth is known. Reverting to the chief subject. Standard plum trees — after the first two or three prunings — should not be pruned so severely as apples or pears. After the '* head '* has been formed there is little to be done except to remove a secondary branch here and there where it is overcrowding, or crosing another branch; but little as may be required, the trees should be annually examined and the necessary branch or branches removed. 59 Trained trees have their nranches well supplied with spurs and short, young, fruit-bearing wood. The latter, in such cases, is usually also cut back to a spur: but if they are only two or three inches in length they may be left unpruned. Cut out all dead grow^th and " snags " — which are unsightly as well as injurious. Exhausted plum trees may often be rejuvenated by boldly cutting the whole of the branches down to within two or three feet of the main stem. Strong young growth is often the result, and the trees are rendered more vigorous and fruitful for a few more years. THE PEACH. The Peach usually bears fruit on the wood of the previous year, and more regard should be paid to the annual production of fruit-bearing wood than to the formation of fruit-bearing " spurs." Good peach growers properly insist upon cutting- out all superfluous growth and that which has borne fruit immediately the crop of fruit has been gathered. By so doing, the foliage upon the remaining shoots re- ceives the full benefit of more light and air, and is enabled thereby to manufacture more perfect peacli wood. This wood possesses a larger supply of stored- up food in its tissues, and more perfect and better- nourished flower buds and wood buds, which in due course — all other conditions being equal - will produce bettef fruit and more of it. 6o Winter-pruning consists of cutting out any dead or very weak shoots and any growth for which there is not abundant space. In deciding which shoots are too weak for fruit-bearing, perhaps the following hint may be useful: wood Vs, %, }i inch in diameter is fruitful Portion of Peach tree in flower in Peach-house at Impney, Droitwich, Shewing the bearing-wood thfnly distributed. From a Photograph. 6r under proper cultural conditions, growth that is stronger or weaker seldom produces fruit. If the young growth (the growth of the previous season) is so distributed all over the area to be covered — either walls or trellis — that each shoot is four inches from its neighbour, the tree and the pruning will be almost perfect ; and the fruit will be proportionately good. Care should be taken to cut neatly, cleanly, and close to the point of origin (Rule 2). The NECTARINE. should be pruned like the Peach tree. s^.-j^v^^i^ i^^^::^«^'T^tt: rt:-^-^-L"^^^-Lv' Y '^-'"Ji . Peach Tree on outside wall at Impney, Droitsvich. 62 APRICOT. Tlie Apricot fruits upon spurs and upon wood of very good quality of the previous season's growth. The main branches of an apricot tree should be widely distributed over the wall, or other support against which it is growing; and the best form of training the tree, with the oliject of obtaining evenly-balanced growth, is that Plum, ' Monarch.' Six years after planting. Before pruning. 63 of an open fan. Three, four, or five main branches should be trained very widely apart on each side of the centre, the centre being always kept open in the form of a V until the tree is fully grown, when the whole space may be filled. As the main branches will pro- duce secondary branches in due course, the latter should also be trained midwav between the main branches. vv;v!lv6^W Plum, ' Monarch.' Six years after planting. Produced hulf-bushel of fruit in 1905. After pruning. b4 Plum, • Grande Duke.' Planted 1896 in the Experimental Garden, Droitwich. Before Pruning, From a Photoj^raph 65 And as they in turn produce other smaller branches, the latter should be also nailed or tied into position. The young branches last mentioned should have a space of three inches between each other; and any shoot in excess of the number required to cover the space at the distance apart mentioned must be cut away. As the work of pruning proceeds, all dead, weak and exhausted wood should be removed, and the space thus provided be used for the accommodation of the better and fruitful shoots. Fruit-spurs upon the older branches must be kept at a suitable distance from each other, viz. : — four or five inches; and all spurs upon the face of the branches — or pointing exactly towards the operator — should be re- moved with a sharp knife or saw, and the wounds be made perfectly smooth. THE CHERRY. SWEET CHERRIES are easily grown as stand- ards in gardens and orchards. They require very little pruning when grown as standards, and that little should be given in their early years of growth, when the branches are small. Usually that pruning is required for two objects — sometimes one and sometimes the other — either to increase the number of branches for the proper formation of the tree, or for the purpose of reducing their number and the prevention of over-crowding. After the tree has been properly formed the knife and saw should know it no more. But if, unhappily, amputa- tion must be resorted to when the tree has approached or arrived at maturity^ then the operation should be 66 Plum, 'Grande Duke." Planted 1896. After Pruning. From a Photograph 67 performed immediately after the fruit has been gathered, and whilst the trees are in full leaf; the remaining leaves utiHse the sap which would have circulated along the amputated limb, and thus prevents in a large degree the evil of " gumming," which is disastrous. The culture of sweet cherries upon a wall or trellis is very simple. It consists of training a certain number of branches in any desired direction to give a tree the shape in view. Having formed the tree by means of its main branches, the sideshoots thereon should be annually cut back to spurs. The spurs should be six inches apart, and all nearer than that should be removed by knife or saw. MORELLO CHERRIES are a little more trouble- some. If grown as bushes the pruning will consist of cutting away all superfluous branches and those which are exhausted; also in thinning out some of the young shoots where they are too numerous and exclude light and air. This kind of Cherry produces fruit very freely upon wood of the previous year; hence great care i& required to avoid cutting away too much of that wood. Where the Morello Cherry is grown upon walls they are usually relegated to the most sunless ones, because they are so fruitful under such adverse condi- tions; but they appreciate and repay for a more favour- able aspect. The pruner should keep an eye to the proper extension of the tree and therefore retain sufficient young leading growth. It is good policy to cut away all young shoots which are not required for extension of the tree, or for the production of fruit the following year, as soon 68 f ^1 ^ -^•^ \F''^ i ^tf/y^^ jk"^--"^* -o%»|\ V ^tSjt-^*^ ^ >/'; 'mT Apple, ' Gascoyne's Scarlet Seedling.' Wound one year old, showing formation of new tissue Drawn from nature. Correct pruning. 91 of the branches, or their raditis. The larger the tree the greater is the necessity for opening the trench at a proportionately greater distance from the stem. Care should be taken of all fibrous roots as the work proceeds in the excavation of the trench; and rambling- and fibreless strong roots should be cut through with the spade or mattock. When a depth of about two feet has been reached, the workmen should then care- fully undermine the tree all around and sever any strong roots descending into the poor subsoil- — no matter whether they are what are called tap-roots or otherwise. If the mass of soil is so large that there is difficulty in getting under the tree, it may be reduced by carefully removing — by mean? of a fork — the soil from between the roots, commencing at the circumference, and gradually working towards tlie centre. As the work progresses, the small and fibrous roots should be carefully tied together in bundles, and then tied in an upward direc- tion towards the stem or main branches, for their protec- tion and to facilitate the work. Having got right under the tree and severed the undesirable roots by means of knife, or chisel, saw or mattock, the whole of the roots should be carefully examined and the ends trimmed with a sharp knife, taking care to cut them in an upward and outward direction; the new roots tending to grow more horizon- tally than when they are produced from the under-side of the pruned root. The roots may now be replanted in the proper manner; in nearly horizontal position and layer after layer. The lowest roots should be brought to a nearly jjorizontal position and covered with soil up to the level of the next set or layer of roots; which in their turn are spread out nearly horizontally and covered with soil up 92 to the next layer of roots; and the operation should be repeated until the planting has been completed. A more exT>editious method of root-pruning is sometimes adopted in which the main roots are ruth- lessly chopped through, not far from the stem, by means of spade and mattock. The tree receives a severe shock, from which it never wholly recovers. It Apple, ' Lord Grosvenor. Wound two years' old, showing formation of new tissue. Drawn from nature. Correct pruning. 93 is thrown into a debilitated condition and produces fruit freely. The mutilated roots decay: corresponding branches die; and the subsequent state of that tree is not creditable to either its owner or custodian. The tree con- tinues to produce fruit and thereby reproduces its species before it dies ; il dies an untimely death and is ignom- iniously cast into the fire. DISBUDDING. By judiciously disbudding a tree the operator performs an act which at once prevents the possible over- crowding of leaves and thus secures to them the con- ditions absolutely necessary for the proper discharge of their very important functions. ^loreover, it effects a considerable saving of energy and material in the economy of the tree. Growth which must be cut away at a later period represents, and is, so much waste of force and matter; and not only is it waste, but it has. by its temporary presence in the tree — except in special and verv- rare instances — directly injured the quality of the permanent part of the tree : because it has both obstructed the passage of the rays of light to the leaves, and utiHsed food which would have been better left for the use of the permanent part of the tree. Disbudding means the removal, by means of finger and thumb, of all misplaced and superfious wood-buds : buds whose function it is to develop a new branch during the current season of growth. Standard trees of Apple. Pear and Plum — especi- ally young trees, and old trees that have had one or more large branches cuT from them — usually produce superflous young growth from adventitious buds in proximity to the parts from which large or small branches have been removed. Too often these growths are allowed 94 to remain for, at least, a season. That is a mistake. They should be rubbed out with the hand directly they com- mence to grow, and by that timely act much time may be saved and some injury averted. Pear trees — when trained upon walls or trellis, or as pyramids, should receive attention in regard to dis- budding. Much unfruitfulness in future years would Plum, ' Washington.' Wound three years old, nearly covered with new tissue Drawn from nature. Correct pruning. '. ^ Part of branch of ' Pershore ' Plum in Experimental Garuen. Droitwich. 1907. 96 be avoided if this necessary operation were faithfully and annually carried out. It is known that two or three year old wood of the pear tree is usually the most fruit- ful, and that the branches often become barren as they increase in age. But the true cause of the barrenness is not old age, but the want of light and air to the leaves upon these older parts of the branches. The spurs upon them annually increase in size and become too crowded. They must then either remain unfruitful, or be reduced in number. Rut if disbudding had been efficiently per- formed at the right time, i.e., in the spring of the second year of the growth of the shoot, the subsequent crowding of the spurs would have been preA^ented, both for the present and for many future years. Plum trees — when trained — should be disbudded in the same manner as Pears, viz. : all the back and front (foreright) buds should be rubbed out, and some of the buds above and below ; but as the leaves of the Plum tree are smaller than the leaves o'f the Pear tree, the spurs or buds should be left five inches apart for the former and seven inches apart for the latter. Peach tree? and Nectarines require a considerable amount of disbudding at the commencement of their season of growth. If they are neglected in that respect at that period it will be at the ultimate cost of the fruit and the welfare of the tree. Very soon after the flowering period the young growth will be sufficiently advanced for being easily rubbed out with finger and thumb. Nearly the whole of the incipient growth will have to be removed ; but its removal will be better effected in two operations. At the first operation remove all the growing wood buds which are at the hack and front of the young branches, and disbud the whole of the tree in this way. The second disbudding should be done after a lapse of four 97 or five davs — according" to atmospheric conditions and the condition of the tree — when nearly all the wood buds on the lower side of the young branches should be removed. Then of those on the upper side of the branches the best and most suitably-placed wood-bud near the base should be retained to develop into a fruit-bearing branch for use the following year. The bud at the point of the young branch should be allowed to grow to the extent of three or four leaves and then have the point pinched off; but if it is desired to extend that branch in the same direction, the terminal shoot must not be pinched. The remainder of the surplus wood growths may now be easily disposed of. Wherever there is a peach to be nourished, there must there be leaves to provide the nourishment. Those leaves must be on the branch at a point where the fruit will be between the leaves and the main branch or stem of the tree. In other words, in order that the fruit may be nourished, the sap must reach and pass the fruit and continue its progress into the leaves and back again. A fruit cannot be perfect — but is probably worthless- -if there are no leaves to attract the sap beyond it, and to transform the crude sap (raw material) into the perfect material under the influence of light and air. x\pricots should also receive attention. A modified form of the procedure recommended for Peaches will meet all requirements of trained trees of the Apple, Pear, Plum, Sweet Cherry, and Apricot. Vines usually produce several laterals from each strong spur; all of these should be removed but one, which should be the best and most rightly-placed lateral. But sometimes there is a space too large and which must be filled, when two laterals would be left; one to grow in the normal direction, the other to be trained into the vacant place. Branches of Plum, 'Prince Engelbert,' in Experimental Garden Droitwich 1907. 99 When disbudding is regularly and efficiently per- formed, it at once economises and promotes the best powers of the tree and reduces all subsequent pruning to a minimum. SUMMER-PRUNING. " Prevention is better than cure ' is an established maxim in nearly all affairs of human Hfe, and is the cause of the disappearance of many evils therefrom. So it is with vegetable life, whether high or lowly in form. The act of summer-pruning is one — an important one — of various means by which the intelligent gardener en- deavours to attain certain definite ends , and in the case of Fruit trees those ends are the production of more and better fruit. . . - Summer-pruning is the natural sequence of dis- budding, and is quite as necessary, if not more necessary, to trees whose extension or growth has to be restricted. One Vine would quickly fill a huge \^inery if it were not severely winter-pruned and summer-pruned; and one Peach tree will soon fill the back or the front of a fair- sized Peach house if it be not pruned in winter and pruned in summer, or disbudded, or stopped or pinched. In other words, experience has taught that a high standard of quahty and quantity of fruit from trees restricted or limited in their dimensions, can best be obtained by well- considered winter and summer-pruning, supplemented by careful thinning, disbudding, and ''stopping," or pinch- ing out the point of a young shoot after it has formed several leaves or extended two inches or thereabouts. This system is not only adapted for, but is essential to complete success in the cultivation of first-class Grapes, Peaches, Nectarines, Melons, Pears, Apples and Plums, especially for tne three last-named kinds of hardy fruit when grown as single or double-cordons and espalier or palmette-verrier 100 Restricted trees derive much more benefit from early summer-pruning than from late summer-pruning, because the sunlight is more potent for good results from the middle of June to the middle of August than after the latter period, consequently the manufacturing cells of each leaf which receives unobstructed sunHght are enabled to manufacture more wood and better wood, that is — healthier wood and more fruitful wood. Hence the practice of disbudding as soon as surplus young shoots can be rubbed out with the fingers ; and the young shoots which are to remain to form fruit-spurs may with advan- tage have tbeir points pinched out by finger and thumb. The prev€H.Lipn of overcrowding, to the exclusion of light audlairl, ls!far more valuable for obtaining much fruit and weU#--ustrum Lonicera Lycium ]Myrtus Xerium Philadelphus Rhus Rosa Rubus Solanum Symphoricarpus Tamarix Viburnum Tin us Vitex ii6 SPRTXC; FLOWERING SHRUBS. Prune immediately after blooming, or when in leaf Amelanciiier Amygdalns Arbutus Calycantlius Cerasus Jasminum nudiflorum Mains Olearia Paeonia Moutan Persica vulsraris Cercis Choisya Cistus Coronilla Crataeo:us Deutzia Ribes Exochorda Rosmarinus Forsythia Sambucus Hydrangea (Asiatic) Syringa (Lilac) Tamarix Gallica Tamarix Africanus Viburnum (Frencn and Asiatic) oxyacantha Phlomis Cytisus Prunus Weigela Wistaria SHRUBS NOT REQUIRING PRUNING, BUT SIMPLY REMOVAL OF OLD WOOD. Spring-Blooming. Akebia Andromeda Azalea Berberis Calophaca Caragana Cerasus Crataegus Lonicera Pyracantha Tartarica Cytisus Magnolia Laburnum Mahonia Daphne Fraxinus Ornus Flalesia lauocerasus Kalmia Chionanthus Koelreuteria Cotoneaster Aralia Artemesia Summer-Blooming. Cladrastis Pavia (except fornia) Cali- Rhododendron Skimmia Staphylea Viburnum '.Ameri can species) Xanthocera? Robina Pseudo- Acacia Yucca II LARGE FLOWERING TREES XOT REOUIRIXG PRUXIXG. yEsculus (Horso Paulownia Robinia '^^itb excei>- Cliestnut- PvrnS Aria '^hite tions/ Catalpa Beam Tree) Sophora Liriodendron Sorbus Tuli}>ifera PRUXIXG THE SPIREAS. SPIREAS BLOOMIXG IX THE SPRIXG. These ought not to be cut in winter, but when the season of bloom in past, cutting shortest the most vigorous subjects. Chamaedrifolia PrunifoHa. I^ sum- Argentea Hypericifolia. Cut mer pinch the side Lanceolata ^^or to medium length. shoots. i'vee\esn. should be slightly Opulifolia. T^P*^^ Van Houttei. Cut shortened. long shoots. ^,^^y ^^^ i^alf the Thunbergii. Theae Ulmifolia. ^^t away branches which require very little half the sho| ENQUIRIES FOR ALL KINDS OF : PRINTING : SOLICITED The Fruit Growers' and Market Gardeners' Account Book By G. W DAY, Chartered Accountant. Worcester; and G. F. HOOPER. Pershore. THIS Book is specially arranged to suit large or small Growers, and will enable them to keep an accurate and detailed . . account of their receipts and expenditure. The system is not at all elaborate, and has been designed by practical men who have used it with success for some time past . . . Full particulars how to use the Book and Model Entries are given, so that the most inexperienced book-keeper can easily understand the system. A NECESSITY FOR EVERY GROWER High Taxation Bad Book-keeping will afford no relief from Taxation. On the contrary it will probably result in more being paid than is due. Every Grower must therefore keep Accurate Accounts, and this Book is designed to enable this to be done with the minimum of labour. Can be obtained of all Stationers and of the Publishers W. & H. SMITH Ltd. The Journal Press. EVESHAM If you have a garden you need Abol The surest and safest remedy for Green and Black Fly, etc., and unequalled for Mildew on Roses and other plants. Also aids the growth of the plant and improves the foliage. Clean to handle, no unpleasant smell, non- damaging to paintwork. Used in the Royal Gardens. i-pint 1,5, pint 2,5, quart 4 -, i-gallon 6,6, gallon 11,4. Abol Patent Syringes Have a world wide reputation. Give a perfect spray which may be varied in density from fine to medium or course, as desired. Specially recommended by the National Rose Society. No.4(lxl4) 19 6; No. 5 (1 x 20) 24/- ; No. 6 (I ^ x 20) 30/- Bend "A" not included but extra 2 4 Write for interesting Treatise on Garden Pests, Gratis and Post Free. Of all Nurserymen, Seedsmen, Florists, Ironmongers, Chemists and Stores. . . Sole Proprietors and Vlanufacturers : Abol Ltd., 73, Beltring, Paddock Wood, Kent. LAXTON'S FRUIT TREES MANY NEW FRUITS FOR 1922 Including the new Apples Premier and Superb. ]\IANY Thousands of Well Trained Beautifully Rooted Apples, Pears, Plums, Peaches^ Nectarines, Apricots, Cherries, Figs, Vines, Nuts, Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries. New fully Illustrated and Descriptive Catalogue Gratis. Pamphlet with valuable Cultural details, post free for 2d. stamp. Laxton Brothers, Bedford. HEWin & Co., Limited, Xanbscape (3ar^energ, IKlurser^mcn, SEEDSMEN anb fflotigts, Bulb 3mporters, dc. SOLIHULL, EDGBASTON & BIRMINGHAM. Phone 76. Mid. 1 032. s>r ^= WEAPONS OF PRECISION FOR FRUIT GROWERS. :^, BELUMNITE DRY DEATH. The dry system of spraying obviates all difficulty contingent on securing a water supply as in ordinary spraying, and destroys Apple Sucker, Aphis Blight, American Blight and all Insect Pests. N.Q. WASH. An ideal wash for Apple Sucker, Aphis Blight and all leaf-sucking pest. Freely miscible and free from dange- rous chemicals, therefore cannot damage the pollen. TAKITAK. The British-made Banding Materials which neither runs nor dries. Guaranteed free from Mineral Oil. AMBERENE. A concentrated Sulphur fungicidal wash of great potency which instantly destroys the spores of Brown Rot, Canker, Black Spot, Apple Mildew, American Gooseberry Mildew, and all forms of Mildew on Roses, Marrows, Onions, etc. CRAVENITE is death to the soil pests and life to the soil. It is the outcome of science as applied to soil for fumigation for the extermination of all insect pests which live in the soil. GRAFTING WAXES. The finest waxes on the ^Market. RABBIT SMEAR. Absolutely prevents Rabbits and Hares from attack- ing the bark of young trees. For Price Lists and Illustrated Catalogue of Machines, apply, W.J. CRAVEN Ko.,„::»r:cl"L EVESHAM FRUIT TREES, VINES, LAWNS & GENERAL GARDEN USE, AND ALL OTHER HORTICULTURAL FERTILISERS. Hy. Richardson 8e Compy., SKELDERGATE BRIDGE WORKS, YORK. W. & H. SMITH LTD.. Zhe journal press, SWAN LANE, EVESHAM, ARE PUBLISHERS OF THE FOLLOWING ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL Hccount Books FOR THE Fruit Grower, Market Gardener & Farmer. SMITH'S FARMERS' ACCOUNT BOOK 10/6 SMITH'S FRUIT GROWERS' AND MARKET 7//: GARDENERS* ACCOUNT BOOK ... '/^ SMITH'S LABOUR BOOK, to work in conjunction Q //- with the above ... ... ... -^ I ^ PROFITABLE FRUIT GROWING calls for keen judgment and business acumen. JUDGMENT must be carefully exercised in the purchase of trees — the foundation of success. START RIGHT. BUILD ON A SOUND FOUNDATION. PLANT SEABROOK'S TREES. We supply THE BEST worked upon the right stocks in all the leading commercial varieties guaranteed free of insect pests. BUSINESS ACUMEN will result in your re- cognising the advantage of our unique terms. Free fumigation of trees, packed free and CARRIAGE PAID to your nearest station. Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, ''Seabrook's Black" Currant (bud-mite resisting). Red Currants, Goose- berries, Raspberries, etc. ; in fact all the hard and soft fruits grown commercially can be obtained from us in large or small quantities. Ask for Catalogue 7. We are deeply interested in all matters concerning Commercial Fruit Growing, and our experience and advice is at your service W. SEABROOK & SONS Ltd THE NURSERIES, CHELMSFORD. i • • 1 in'i'ii' Mm ., ^ m ::- ^ IMi Ills • i i University of British Columbia Library ^ ^ DUEUME__||«| ^ — /> ■ llWIIIIIi w OAR 2 1 1975 J ,JUL 7 RECO ' m j • - uiR 1 e RECO J ^^ lUi 1= , vuz^ ■ ^ — r llw - OCT 1 5 1975 l^ZIZJ^I p~" ^0 " K ' 1084 S're'ct) OCT 3 1 *<^^ ^ ~ APR 1 6 20O1J / ccp, nzzzd FORM 310 . ALL Winter Wash 7 56 IX^ i- T- . )3^ tK FDRESTR)^j AGRICULTU^e; LIBRARY TT MaNLFACTL-KER AMD PATENTEE — IHARDS, 234, Borough High St.. LONDON, S.E.I r TeUphone No. 190. EstablUhed 1870, ~\ J. N. HARVEY rUite GEORGE JONES) — Nurseryman, EVESHAM — LARGE STOCK OF FRUIT TREES and BUSHES OF ALL THE LEADING MARKET VARIETIES Fret from Blight, und in splendid conditioB, grawB in my own Norseries tpecinll. for Market G»rri»iu and tlir Trade at v«r L«wc»t Prices. INCLUDING APPLES, PEARS. PLUMS. : . . CHERRIES, . . TRAINED TREES FOR WALLS.. . GOOSEBERRIES, BLACK and RED CURRANTS. Etc SHRUBS, STANDARD .... ORNAMENTAL TREES DECIDUOUS SHRUBS, CLIMBERS. Etc. . . .STRAWBERRY ROOTS RHUBARB ROOTS . SEAKALE. ASPARAGUS ROOTS AN IMMENSE STOCK OF THE FINEST ::: ROSES 3^ BUSH, STANDARDS AND CLIMBERS. Estimates given for Planting out Plantations on the most up-to-date principles. CATALOGUES SENT POST FREE.