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THE ‘‘COUNTRY LIFE "’ LIBRARY

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

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First Edition, April, 1913.

Second Edition (Revised), June, 1914.

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COUNTRY

HUDSON & KEARNS,
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LONDON, S.E.

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FLOWER BOOK

By
| a JENKINS

Edited by

bo W. HARVEY

SECOND EDITION

LONDON :

PUBLISHED AT THE OFFICES OF COUNTRY LIFE,

LTD., 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C.,

AND BY GEORGE NEWNES, LTD., 8-11, SOUTHAMPTON

SDREET, STRAND, W.C. NEW YORK: CHARLES
SCRIBNER’S SONS.

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK Vil

CON FENTS

PART I.
CHAP. PAGE
I.—PREPARATION OF THE SOIL P . : 1

II.— GENERAL CULTIVATION OF HARDY FLOWERS,
PLANTING, STAKING, TYING . : ‘ 6

IIl.—HarpbDy FLOWERS FOR THE MIXED BORDER . 13
IV.—HarpDy FLOWERS FOR THE SHRUBBERY BORDER 17
V.—HARDyY PLANTS FOR THE WILD GARDEN : 2A
VI.—HarbDy PLANTS FOR WATERSIDE GARDENING =. 27

VII.—Harpy PLants FOR Boip PICTURESQUE

EFFECTS : ' : : ‘ ; 37
VIIJ.—Harpy Florists’ FLOWERS : ; = 40
IX.—EFFECTIVE BORDER GROUPING . : : 56

X.—PROPAGATION OF HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS O61

XI.—DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS . ; 4 68

PART ii,

INTRODUCTION ‘ : ‘ : : : . 71

ALPHABETICAL SELECTION OF THE Most USEFUL AND
ORNAMENTAL HERBACEOUS PLANTS . : 72-128

vill CONTENTS

PAKS LUE:

HARDY FLOWERS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES i 5 i226)

THE BEst BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS 132

HARDY FLOWERS THAT BLOOM IN SPRING : RG
HARDY FLOWERS THAT BLOOM IN SUMMER . ess
HarRDy FLOWERS THAT BLOOM IN AUTUMN . . 237
HARDY FLOWERS THAT BLOOM IN WINTER . _ Way
PLANTS FOR FORMING EDGINGS . : ; 6 1rXe}
HARDY PLANTS FOR THE SHADY BORDER : a Ege
HARDY PLANTS FOR SUNNY BORDERS . ; 5 XO)

A SELECTION OF ORNAMENTAL PLANTS FOR PIC-
TURESQUE EFFECTS : : . . - £40

Harpy FLOWERS FOR SHOW PURPOS:S . : o Ban

\ SELECTION OF HERBACEOUS AND ALPINE PLANTS
THAT MAY BE RAISED FROM SEEDS . . 2 ba

A SELECTION OF MOISTURE-LOVING PLANTS . la

HARDY FERNS FOR THE SERiIJBBERY BORDER OR
WOODLAND . < Sseeen ‘ ‘ ; - ele

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

LIST OF ILLUSERATIONS

Fic.
COLOURED FRONTISPIECE—A JUNE BORDER

OF FLAG IRISES AND LUPINES.
1.—A PLANT BADLY STAKED
2.—THE SAME PLANT PROPERLY STAKED

3.—PLAN OF A MIXED BORDER 60FT. LONG AND
I2FT. WIDE

4.—A MIXED BORDER IN AUTUMN

5-—A MIxED BORDER WITH ANNUALS IN THE
FOREGROUND . . : : : :

6.—JAPANESE ANEMONES EFFECTIVELY GROUPED
IN FRONT OF EVERGREENS a

7.—DAFFODILS NATURALISED IN THE WOODLAND .
8.—A Giant Cow-ParsnIpP .
9.—SNOWDROPS IN A WOODLAND CLEARING .

10.—A BoL_p GROUPING OF GERMAN IRISES BY THE
WATERSIDE

II1.—]JAPANESE IRISES BY THE WATERSIDE AT
WISLEY

12.—PLAN SHOWING SECTION OF A DEEP DITCH
13.—PLAN OF A PATHWAY AND STREAM ;

14.—A STREAMSIDE GARDEN THAT HAS BEEN MADE
FROM A DeEEp DitTcH.

ix

PAGE

9

I2

14

x THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Fic.
15.—ACANTHUS MOLLIS

16.—AN EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF EREMURI .
17.—PHLOXES GROUPED TOGETHER

18.—PHLOXES EFFECTIVELY COMBINED .
I9.—PLAN OF BORDER AT WESTWICK GARDENS
20.—A WELL-ARRANGED BORDER .

21.—AN OLD PLANT OF LONDON PRIDE ‘ :

22.—THREE TYPICAL YOUNG SHOOTS OF LONDON
PRIDE

23.—AN OLD PLANT oF LYCHNIS .
24.—DIVIDED PorRTIONS OF LYCHNIS

25.—PORTION OF AN. OLD PLANT OF EVERGREEN
CANDYTUFT

26.--SHOOT OF EVERGREEN CANDYTUFT.

27.—A BoLp GrouP OF DOUBLE-FLOWERED HOLLY-
HOCKS : : : : : : ;

28.—A BED OF THE DROPMORE VARIETY OF ANCHUSA
ITALICA

29..—_CUTTINGS OF DOUBLE ARABIS
30.—THE CUTTINGS PLANTED IN A Box

31.—A FLOWERING PLANT OF DOUBLE ARABIS
RAISED FROM A CUTTING .

32.—A BoRDER OF MICHAELMAS DAISIES ‘ :

33.—MicHAELMAS Daisy DESIRE

79
81

EVST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Fic.
34.—THE Moccasin FLOWER : : ‘
35.—A LarGE BED OF THE GIANT ASPHODEL :
36.—CHRISTMAS ROSES WITH HARDY FERNs .

A BEAUTIFUL BORDER OF GERMAN OR FLAG

37:
IRISES : n ; : -

38.—PORTION OF AN OLD PLANT OF GERMAN IRIS
39.—SINGLE CROWNS OF GERMAN [RIS
40.—A Group oF MADONNA LILIEs :

41.—CLUMP oF LiLty BULBs READY FOR TRANS-
PLANTING . : : :

42.—How To ARRANGE LILY BULBS FOR PLANTING .

43.—THE NANKEEN LILY IN A BED OF RHODODEN-
DRONS : : - . :

44.—MADONNA LILIES EFFECTIVELY PLANTED BY A
Lorry PERGOLA

45.—THE AsIATIC BELL-FLOWER .
46.—ORIENTAL Poppy . : : :

47-—_AN OLD POLYANTHUS PLANT READY FOR
DIvIsION

48.—DIVIDED PoRTIONS READY FOR PLANTING

A Roor CuttTING oF ROMNEYA COULTERI .

49.

50.— THE LARGE-FLOWERED Woop LILy ;

102
103

105

107

107

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK Xl

PREFACE

THE increasing interest that has been taken in the
cultivation of hardy herbaceous flowers during the last
few years has been phenomenal. Never have they been
so highly esteemed as they are at the present day. This
fact is due to many causes, the chief of which, un-
doubtedly, is the great improvements that have been
brought about by our leading nurserymen and amateurs.

It is only when a comparison is made between the
Delphinium, Peony, Phlox and Pyrethrum of to-day
with those in general cultivation ten or fifteen years ago
that one realises the extraordinary improvements that
have been made, and the effects these have had on garden-
ing not only in this, but in other countries. The increased
interest in these plants has naturally called forth a
number of books professedly dealing with their cultiva-
tion. Of these few are good, many indifferent, and a
number bad. The chief faults of the majority are that
they are indefinite or impractical. In these days there
is a noticeable tendency to strain after journalistic effect
and to ignore, or pleasantly evade, just those very
points upon which the average amateur who sets out to
cultivate these flowers is seeking for information. We
believe that it is not impossible to successfully combine
the two, but we even more firmly believe that sound,
practical information is the all-important object to
keep in mind, and the contents of this book as well as
the illustrations have been prepared with this end
continually in view. Mr. Jenkins is a_ recognised
authority on all kinds of hardy plants, having devoted
his whole life to the study of their requirements.
For many years he has been a member of the Floral
Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, has
lectured on hardy flowers in all parts of the country, and

XIV PREFACE

is consulted about hardy plants by both nurserymen and
amateurs. Any of the methods advocated in this book,
therefore, may be adopted with the fullest confidence.
For the sake of convenience and handy reference, the
volume has been divided into three distinct sections.
Part I. deals with the principal uses of hardy flowers in
the garden, and includes special detailed particulars of
the more important families, such as Phloxes, Del-
phiniums and Pyrethrums, as well as plans showing the
proper grouping of plants for borders. Part II. consists
of an alphabetical list of all hardy herbaceous flowers
that are worth growing. Here will be found in concise
form all the essential points that are necessary for their
cultivation—the best varieties ; the month of flowering ;
soils; aspect required; and propagation hints; par-
ticulars which in so many books are either ignored or
evaded. Part III. consists of tabulated lists of hardy
plants for all conceivable purposes, giving, in every case,
their colour, height, time of flowering, and other useful
details. An important feature of this section of the
book is the lists of plants that flower in all seasons—
spring, summer, autumn and winter. Many owners of
gardens are able to spend only a few weeks of one or
other seasons of the year among their flowers, and,
naturally, wish the garden to appear at its best during
those weeks. These lists, in conjunction with the in-
formation given in the other sections of the book, should
enable this object to be achieved without difficulty.

It is confidently claimed that this little book is a
complete and trustworthy guide to all those who are
desirous of adding to their knowledge of the right
methods of planting and cultivating hardy flowers, and
thereby enhancing the attractiveness and beauty of
their gardens.

F. W. HARVEY

PARAS slr

HE HAKDY FLOWER BOOK 1

CHAPTER =I.
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.

IN the cultivation of hardy flowers a matter of the
highest importance is the tilling of the soil. This applies
with equal truth to every class, whether shrub, her-
baceous perennial, or biennial, and in the main to the
entire range of annuals also. But, despite this truism,
it is a matter too often neglected, or the work at least
only indifferently performed. If an amateur specialises
in Roses or Sweet Peas, the almost invariable rule is to
so make a beginning that success at the very outset
would appear to be more than half assured. The soil
is so thoroughly trenched, manure and bone meal and
other things so incorporated, that the operator has the
supreme satisfaction of knowing that he is doing the
thing rightly and well, and, that being so, he is entitled
to look for a fair return for his labours. Generally, he
has the even more supreme satisfaction of not being
disappointed, and the full measure of his success is the
reward of his enthusiasm, of his labour of love.

In his first dealings with the hardy herbaceous flower
border the amateur is not always so enthusiastic as he
is in the case of Roses or Sweet Peas, but the former
demand it as much, and repay it as fully as the latter.
That being so, I desire on the very threshold of this little
volume to drive home the point, to endeavour to get
my readers fully to comprehend the importance of
thoroughness at the outset. All interested should,
therefore, regard the preparation of the soil as a first
principle, something which cannot be ignored, something
which cannot be gainsaid with impunity. Those who
have omitted this important work in the past—and
from long experience and touch with horticultural
journalism I know the number is not a small one—have
many times repented of their sin, and have been freely
forgiven by all, probably, save those unoffending

A

2 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

victims, the plants. The greater burden of punishment
in such cases falls, usually and happily, in the right
place, the indifferent display, the sullenness of certain
plants, the death of others, and, over all, an enfeebled
growth, insignificant and poor, uncharacteristic flowers
being some of the outward and visible signs of this
neglect of the preparation of the soil—a first principle
in the case. In any case the old adage “ well done is
always done’’ must apply, for once a border is well
prepared the one great obstacle of non-success is
removed. Conversely, “‘ badly done is never done,”
and the ill-prepared border is a source of dissatisfaction
and an eyesore for long periods of time. Moreover, such
border has, sooner or later, to submit to preparation,
and, naturally, the deferred work is more costly and less
expeditiously performed than if undertaken at first.
Obviously then, from the standpoints of economy and
insured success, the due preparation of the soil must
be regarded as

A First Step.—That being so, we may now consider
the situation more closely. For treatment, an entirely
new piece of ground exists in the mind’s eye. It may
be a portion of a shrubbery border, a poaching on the
preserves of the kitchen garden proper, or, what often
happens, a piece of pastureland is being taken into the
garden and awaits treatment. In each of these a different
set of conditions arises. Let us take them as we find
them. The shrubbery border example will invariably
be found in a poor impoverished state owing to long
tenure of trees and voracious shrubs. The first thing to
do in such a case would be to rid the soil of every vestige
of root and root fibre, grubbing them out, and making
a bonfire of the materials on the spot, together with
any rubbish that might be at hand. The ashes from
such fires are rich in ammonia, potash and other salts,
and by strewing them evenly over the surface the soil
would be receiving, if in a new form, some of the essen-
tials of plant life long since removed. Such a border
will require the deepest trenching and heaviest manuring
to get it into good heart. Should the soil be very light

| PREPARATION OG GEE SORE 3

or sandy, cow manure, whether comparatively fresh or
well decomposed, will be the best—best, not for high
manurial value so much as for its cool, long enduring,
moisture-retaining properties. These sandy soils, too,
are usually deficient in lime; hence that essential to
most vegetable life should be supplied. Even more
valuable than lime would be a six-inch surface dressing
of lias clay, and which, when broken down by frost and
rain, should be thoroughly incorporated with the soil.
Such a dressing of clay would, in a single year, more
than restore the soil to its original fertility, while making
a medium for plant cultivation bordering on the ideal.
Heavy or retentive soils would, in addition to trenching,
require sand, grit, leaf soil, and light manure to render
them porous and open. The drainage, too, should be
made perfect. A more efficient aeration of the whole
mass of soil would be secured by throwing it roughly in
high ridges for the winter, an operation which at once
insures a more complete drainage, while exposing its
maximum to the re-vitalising influences of frost and air.
The Kitchen Border Soil in the ordinary way will be
found rich in plant foods, and possibly a thorough
trenching, in conjunction with manuring and liming,
will be all sufficient. It might be added here that, to
ordinary soils, hme might be applied at the rate of one
bushel to each rod of ground, and to over-rich soils,
those virtually suffering from manure sickness, twice
that amount might be advantageously applied. The
chief function of lime is that it brings into action the
insoluble reserves of nitrogen and potash contained in
the soil, rendering them available as plant food. It
also constitutes a corrective to soil of much richness by
neutralising the injurious acids present. In all cases
cow-manure is that recommended for light sandy or
stony soils, and ordinary stable dung for heavy soils.
Newly Embraced Pasture Land may require special
treatment. Of primary importance here would be to
determine the presence or absence of wireworm, a ter-
rible pest so far as Lilies, Irises, and many other plants
are concerned. Should the land be free, trenching and

4 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

manuring should proceed in the ordinary way. Should
its presence be detected, it will be best to take a four-
inch deep sod off first—the “ top-spit ’’—and stack it
in a place apart. To turn this wireworm infested sod
into the bottom of the trench would constitute a fatal
error, one that might cost pounds to rectify, and even
then not before many valuable plants had been lost.

Trenching and Manuring.—Trenching is but another
name for double-digging, and consists in the removal
of soil two spits deep, with the consequent crumbs. Its
special office is to deepen and improve the soil, to render
available a greater depth of material, aerated and en-
riched to sustain plant life. Soils vary materially in
depth as well as quality, and, in the case of shallow soils
over gravel, trenching as ordinarily understood is neither
practicable nor possible. On the other hand, several
feet deep of good soil may exist, and in such as these
the trenching should be of the best. The method of
trenching is to mark off a strip of ground two feet or so
in width, and excavate it to a similar depth. If borders
on either side of a main walk are being treated, the soil
will need to be transferred only to the opposite side of the
border. If a one-sided border is being dealt with it will
be best, unless the border is wide and permits of being
worked in two longitudinal sections, to transfer the soil
to the other extreme. With the first trench open, a
width equal to the first should be marked off, turning
the top soil into the bottom and bringing the second
spit to the top. A heavy layer of manure should be
inserted between these two layers of soil. In the case of
new or impoverished soil heavy manure dressings should
also be given at the surface. The work of trenching
should be done in early autumn, where possible, so that
the ameliorating effects of frost, rain and air can exert
their fullest influence upon the soil.

A Final Step in this important matter of soil prepara-
tion should be early spring forking or digging. Prior
to this, heavy and retentive clay soils will be much
improved by a surface dressing of lime, Ib. to the square
yard, which, coagulating the particles of the soil, permits

PREPATKAIMON OF Die “SOLE 5
a freer passage of water through the whole mass, thereby
ensuring a greater degree of warmth and more complete
drainage than existed before. The same class of soils
can be lightened and otherwise improved and enriched
by the addition of ashes from garden rubbish fires, and,
whilst the soil is still unoccupied, anything that can be
done in this direction should be done. Clay soils,
generally, are usually unworkable during times of wet-
ness, and if trodden only become pasty and unsuited
to plant growth. Hence the need of surface dressings—
lime, soot, wood ashes or the like—being given during
frosty weather. Advantage, too, should be taken of
dry, windy weather for the same work.

In extreme instances of clay soils, and where the area
is a large one, burning has been resorted to with excellent
results ; that is, making a fire and treating the worst of
the material as if making a ballast fire. Such work,
however, is not possible in restricted areas, though its
effect in other circumstances is almost electrical. Soils
so treated are benefited for all time. They are drained,
warmed and enriched, and much water being taken out
of them by the process of digging and burning, they are
rendered almost immune from one of the worst evils
of all clay soils, viz., summer contraction and cracking.

Light soils are much more tractable and easily worked.
They do not usually suffer from treading after wet, and,
as a rule, are available at any time. They also possess
other advantages. Plants take to them more quickly
than they do to clay soils. This is chiefly due to the
existing warmth created by more complete drainage.
At the same time they are more quickly exhausted than
heavy soils and require more frequent enriching, and
they are available for planting at almost any season.
Notwithstanding these advantages, it will be well to
give them careful treatment at the start. I have
thought it well to refer to the treatment of the soil in
some detail, so much evidence having come under my
notice of the consequent ill-effects—loss of plants and
much disappointment—when the hardy plant border
has received but little or no preparation.

6 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

CHAPIER te

GENERAL CULTIVATION OF Harpy FLOWERS.
PLANTING, STAKING, TYING.

When to Plant.—Of primary importance here is the
question of planting in season and with reason. Let it
be clearly understood what is meant by this. Her-
baceous perennials, like all other subjects, have their
own seasons for starting, both with root-activity and
stem-growth. Some, too, are almost perpetual in their
rooting, continuing to produce root fibres during a
greater part of the year. The border Phloxes are an
instance of this. Others, however, such as Iris, Peony,
and the Christmas Rose, produce root-fibres at fixed
intervals of time. The first-named set, those that might
be called the perpetual-rooting class, may, if convenient,
be planted with impunity over a considerable period.
The others—and Peeonies and Christmas Roses more
particularly—cannot be so treated, or, if so treated, will
resent it in an unmistakable manner. This is due to a
variety of circumstances, though chiefly to the fact that
only two sets of roots are produced by these plants each
year, and the loss of the primary set—the basal roots of
autumn—which also entails the loss of the secondary
set, appearing normally in spring, the plant is thrown
on its own resources for probably a whole year.
This in turn gives rise to a general weakness or debility
of the whole plant, and recovery is very slow. More of
this anon.

Autumn and Spring Planting.—In the main, however,
that large class of plants which figure under the general
heading of hardy herbaceous perennials are of so
vigorous and enduring a nature that they submit to
planting either in autumn or in spring. A principle
involved in the latter, however, is that the work be
timely done, so that the subject has the dual advantage

COLLIV ATION: PGA NITNG. Gc: 7

of becoming established before dry weather sets in and
of making a fair display even in the first year. In a
general way the majority transplant quite well just prior
to new growth appearing. Larkspurs, Irises, Sun-
flowers, Pyrethrums, and many more are good examples,
though in light loamy or sandy soils these may also be
safely planted at other times, The Herbaceous Phloxes,
because of their continuous rooting and the loss of root-
fibre and stamina that late planting involves, I prefer to
plant in early autumn. In this way the plants obtain
a good hold of their new stations before the arrival of
spring.

The Fallacy of the Big Clump.—Let me emphasise
this, because to the beginner there is no more fatal
error. The big clump of Pyrethrum, Iris, Peony,
Trollius, or what you will, is a delusion and a snare.
The youthful plant is capable of much better work.
Why? Because its every shoot and bud has oppor-
tunities for developing, whilst those of the big clump are
hopelessly hemmed in on every side. A big clump of
Pyrethrum may have within its half dozen inches five
or six dozen shoots, only a tithe of which are free. The
remainder are virtually out of court—out of action.
A solitary crown of one of these might appear a diminu-
tive scrap to plant, but if well rooted, it will, when
established, provide the finest display—a whole sheaf
of blossoms. The specialist of the perpetual-flowering
Carnation or the Chrysanthemum obtains his best re-
sults, not by employing the stools of worn-out, or, at
least, much exhausted, stock, but from young plants,
periodically increased—refreshed, renewed, re-invigo-
rated. Is not the lesson an obvious one for us? Is it
too much trouble to perpetuate that youthfulness in the
hardy plant border by the same or similar means? We
must, indeed, do so if our borders are to yield the best
they are capable of giving. The day of neglect or of
indifference of the herbaceous border is of the past. It
is not sufficient to plant, and leave the rest to chance.
We must cultivate, and that perpetually, and the harvest.
we shall reap will be a harvest of flowers, an enduring

8 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

feast of weeks, or it may be months—reaping some
thirty, some sixty, some a hundredfold—just in propor-
tion as our labour has been assiduous and enthusiastic.

Fig. 1—A PLANT BADLY STAKED.

Staking and Tying are small matters of great impor-
tance. They show at once the taste, intelligence, or
indifference of the owner. Badly-tied specimens rob the
plants of all beauty and charm, and bundle-tied, beesom-
like examples are the ugliest of all. Every plant in
Nature has a certain more or less well defined contour

CULTIVATION, (PLAN TING, “ce. S)

of its own ; the aim of the gardener should be to imitate
it as nearly as possible. The bundle-tied specimen
(Fig. 1) not only destroys all good eftect, but, by excluding
light and air, causes the innermost branches to quickly

Fig. 2—THE SAME PLANT PROPERLY
STA KED

decay, and wretched flowers result. In gardens of note,
the proper staking of plants receives seasonable as well
as intelligent treatment. That is to say, the habit of
the plant is anticipated, and a good natural result en-
sues (Fig. 2). This is done, say, in the case of certain
Michaelmas Daisies, by placing several stakes to each

10 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

specimen during the early stages of growth, so that
with the latter completed, the stakes are quite or nearly
obscured from view. A solitary stake to a plant and
a tie amidships is wrong and bad—bad in any case, but
inexpressibly so in the case of small growing subjects.
In staking no stick need reach to a greater height than
two-thirds that of the plant. For example, to Dicentra
(Dielytra) spectabilis, or the Solomon’s Seal, all the
natural arching character of the flowering racemes
should be preserved. To tie such as these to straight
erect sticks robs the plants of all their natural grace.
These plants, however, rarely require staking at all, and
are cited merely to illustrate a point. Noble growing
subjects like the Kniphofias (Red Hot Pokers), or
Lilium giganteum, need never be staked. Lilium Henryi
has a characteristic lean or bend of its own, and no
thinking gardener will attempt to rob the plant of it.
Michaelmas Daisies, of the ericoides or diffusus sets,
require but little staking, though where it is done the
top-spread of the plants should receive due considera-
tion. For such as these it will be necessary to insert
the sticks near to the root-stock of the plant, setting
them at an outwardly reclining angle to suit the growth
of the plant. A golden rule would be never to stake
unless it is necessary. Staking should be resorted to in
order to preserve, not to mar, beauty. Elegant habited
plants—e.g., Heucheras and Columbines—should seldom
be staked ; the play of the flowers consequent upon the
prevailing breeze but adds to their many graces. En-
vironment, however, may in certain instances render
staking desirable, and particularly when the position is
much exposed. Stakes, too, should be light and ren-
dered as inconspicuous as possible.

Watering.—This, in the case of spring-planted ex-
amples, is a matter of importance, and again, for sub-
jects approaching the flowering stage in times of drought.
In all cases where necessary the work should be tho-
roughly done, a complete saturating of all the surround-
ing soil given from the spout of a can, and not dribbled
on by means ofa fine rose. In not a few gardens to-day,

CUOLTIVATION, PLANTING, ee. 11

standpipes and hose are to be found, though they are
certainly not an unmixed blessing. Cold water driven
with force on to a plant is bad; it is infinitely worse
when squirting is resorted to by the unthinking, and in
never-ending quantity. In watering with hose pipe it
is not necessary to direct the full force of the water at
the middle of a plant. It is the soil that requires
saturation, though the plant will be greatly refreshed
by a shower bath at the end. Warmed water, 7.e., that
exposed to air and light in open tanks, is best, and rain
water best of all.

BOOK

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THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 13

(CIBUNIPINDIR JUL.
Harpy FLOWERS FOR THE MIxED BorpDrER.

THE cultural routine to be observed here in no wise
differs from that detailed in the previous chapter. A
point of difference, however, is that in not a few gardens
the mixed border is regarded as a sort of store-house for
useful things for cutting, so that the beds of the flower
garden proper be not interfered with. It is not, then,
that the mixed border cannot be made as presentable
as any other, but that in large gardens it constitutes a
sort of reserve—a useful adjunct—to the whole. In
other gardens, and these probably are in the majority,
the mixed border is often a feature of the place, gay and
beautiful with all sorts of flowers for many weeks on
end. Such a border will of necessity contain its com-
plement of annuals and biennials (Fig. 3), its rows of
Roses and Carnations, with tufted Pansies near the
front ; its Dahlas or Cannas, and the pillared splendour
of Climbing Roses or Clematises in the background,
which, in not a few instances, may be used with excellent
results.

To instance one that at the moment is in the mind’s
eye—such a border might begin its season with masses
of Crocuses, Snowdrops and Dog’s Tooth Violets near
a margin already garnished by mossy Rockfoil, London
Pride, and woolly-leaved Thyme (T. lanuginosus), with
presently intervening masses of tufted Pansies, and anon
Daffodils and Tulips galore, springing from the near-by
tufts of Carnations or anticipating the splendour of the
Roses only a few weeks since pruned. From thence,
Peony and Phlox, Sunflower and Larkspur, Dahlia and
Canna, Gladiolus and Lily, Hollyhock, Michaelmas
Daisies in variety, and Japanese Anemones might ap-
pear in large groups (Fig 4). Sweet Peas of necessity
would enter into the display, for they are capable of
playing an excellent part in such an arrangement.

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16 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

From the spot where Daffodils and Tulips flowered in
early spring, the Chinese Asters should rise for an
autumn display when the fuller glory of the Roses had
departed. There are, of course, many varieties and
types, and the whole are welcome for their late and good
flowering. Other good annuals should include Stocks,
Rocket Larkspur, Nigella, Calliopsis, Chrysanthemum
in). variety; and many more (Pies 5)2 _Thes only.
things, indeed, that cannot be put into the richer soils
of the mixed border with advantage are the dwarf
Nasturtiums, which, running to leaf at the expense of
flower, would probably disappoint. Where these are
grown, let them appear in the poorest soils apart, for in
these alone are they capable of displaying their fullest
value. A chief point to bear in mind is a succession of
flowers. For example, it is not desirable to have any-
thing gaudy in flower with and near the Roses to mar
their beauty. A glaucous carpet of Carnations and
presently a few sheaves: of the crimson flowers of the
Clove would, of course, add a greater charm to white or
cream coloured Roses ; or spreading sheets of white or
golden-tufted Pansies might be there with equally good
effect. White fragrant Stocks and crimson or scarlet
Roses would be good company, too ; any arrangement,
indeed, in w hich the twain, mirroring each other into a
fuller life and beauty, would, as it were, be playing a
dual part in the embellishing of the whole.

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK eZ

CHAPTER’ IV.

Harpy FLOWERS FOR THE SHRUBBERY
BorRDER.

What to Do with the Shrub Border.——There is, of course,
but one way of considering the Shrubbery Border
proper, and that would be after once thoroughly pre-
paring and planting it to let it almost severely alone,
save for the destruction of weeds. We have in mind,
however, hardy flowers in conjunction with the shrub
border ; hence, for present purposes, the idea of letting it
alone must of necessity be modified. The one great
danger to the shrub border is that of annual digging,
and, of course, in thoughtless, unintelligent hands, of
annual root-mutilation also, and that species of it more
particularly that sets a plant back for a whole year after
the work is done. Hence digging—and indiscriminate
digging in particular—is a sort of curse. It is, of course,
a hundredfold worse when carried on right to the base
of a plant regardless of root spread. In the shrubbery
border, where hardy flowers find place, there must per-
force be digging of a kind, though usually it may be met
by careful light forking amid the groups of plants. To
delve here and there more or less deeply and to turn up
tuft after tuft of root fibre is wrong—illogical to a degree
—and he who would do it would not hesitate in turning
up bulb or hardy perennial likewise. These are not
fanciful pictures ; it is done in private and public garden
alike, and it ought not to be.

In thinking of the association of herbaceous plant and
shrub, the overgrown plantings of Portugal and common
Laurels beneath hungry rooting trees are dismissed as
impossibles, for where Privet and Laurel eke out a bare
existence, the chances for flowering plants are remote
indeed. In other words, we want a place to garden in
and not an unkempt jungle.

B

18 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Plants for the Shrub Border.—The shrubbery part of
our border would, therefore, be made up of Lilacs,
Flowering Currants (Ribes), Diervillas or Wiegelas,
Forsythia, Spireea, Rosa rugosa, Choisya, Magnolia,
Berberis, and other things of leaf or flower beauty or
interest. Amid these the lofty plumes of the Pampas
Grass, or the spires of the nobler Red Hot Poker (Kni-
phofia) might be seen to advantage; or, in favoured
places, the giant-stemmed Arundo Donax with good
effect. A subject of sterling worth for such a place
would be the pure white-flowered form of Anemone
Japonica. This fine plant should be given a place apart,
a flanking position near a belt of dark-leaved Holly or
other evergreen, so that its distinctive leaf beauty, as
well as its flowers, might be seen to advantage (Fig. 6).
At another extreme of the border the pink-flowered
Anemone Queen Charlotte might appear, while others
might be planted should opportunity offer. A plant too
rarely seen in such connection is the willow-leaved Sun-
flower (Helianthus orgyalis), and it is full of grace.
Such Lilies as pardalinum, testaceum, candidum, Henryi,
croceum, tigrinum, umbellatum, and speciosum should
also find place, and, not less so, the Himalayan Lihum
giganteum.

Bold herbaceous subjects like Helenium, Delphinium,
Sunflower, Iris orientalis, Phloxes, and Michaelmas
Daisies might also play a part, the pyramidal spires of
’ the Chimney Campanula, in blue and white, sharing in
the display. There will be room, too, for the taller
growing of the herbaceous Pzeonies, for flag and other
Irises, for Columbine, Solomon’s Seal, Astilbe and many
more of a strong-growing character. As yet nothing has
been said about the margin, though this also must bear
some degree of proportion, some sort of relation to the
whole. Hence, here we would confine our plantings to
Aucuba japonica vera, to Skimmias, Ghent Azaleas, to
occasional groups of Yuccas and such plants, with so
distinctive a subject as Saxifraga cordifolia purpurea or
one of its kin at the immediate front. Such a border, if
cool and moist or in shade, might well contain its

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SNYFADUAAY FO LNOUA NI Cad NOXD ATAAILOTATTA SANOWANVK ASANVdAV(—9 ‘3uT

THE SHRUBBERY BORDER

20 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

complement of Lenten Roses, and the fine-leaved Helle-
borus corsicus. We have also a happy recollection of
one almost carpeted by Lily of the Valley, and another
which, in spring-time, was clothed with Primroses, and
later May-flowering Poeticus Narcissi. Needless to say,
in such cases neither spade nor digging was permitted.
The necessary weeding, light forking or hoeing, mulching
with decayed leaf soil and manure, were the chief atten-
tions given to a border rich and varied in plant life and
full of beauty during many months of the year.

ILENE, SETA DYE LOWER BOOK 21

CHAPTER V.
Harpy PLAaNts FoR THE WILD GARDEN.

If the Wild Garden is less necessary to the garden proper
than the mixed border or the shrubbery border, it can
vie with either, and, indeed, surpass them in its restful-
ness and charm. It is, of course, not a subject for the
town or suburban dweller, and the feeble and often
formal attempts that we see occasionally on the out-
skirts of public parks but demonstrate how imperfectly
this phase of gardening is understood even to-day. It
would almost appear, too, that many gardeners fail to
appreciate it and have no sympathy with it, and the
twain may be born of the lack of knowledge to guide
them aright. Wild gardening, however, in its truest
sense—the gardening of copse and pasture, woodland
and glen, waterside and hedgerow—is, without doubt,
one of the most fascinating of the many phases of out-
door gardening, a gardening which brings us into touch
with Nature at every turn, and which, indeed, rightly
conceived, zs Nature itself. Its very informality and
absence of trimness of necessity carries 1t away from
the more formal arrangements of flower bed and border,
and we find in it a restfulness and repose as refreshing as
they are real. Once free of the more formal garden,
with its precision and monotony, we are at liberty to
make beautiful its rougher parts, and in such a way that
they will not be least among the many attractions a
good garden may contain. On all large estates there is,
fortunately, room for all, and the wealth of flower
beauty of this and other countries deserves well at our
hands. In not a few instances

The Cool Moist Woodland will be found congenial to
a large number of plants, and, bereft of the useless
savagery of bramble and other things, should be made
much of. There should, however, be no attempt at
an absolute clearance. We want the wild garden to

22

THE

HARDY

FLOWER

BOOK

7.—DAFFODILS NATURALISED IN THE WOODLAND.

Fig.

WILD GARDENING

‘NONVIZZVOALNVW WOXTIOVUAH ‘dINSUVd-MOO INVID V—S8

“HUT

24 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

represent that “art which doth mend Nature, change
it rather’; hence only the more savage, useless types
should be removed. Should the soil be light, peaty or
sandy, we shall find it a veritable home for Lily, Rhodo-
dendron, and Wild Rose; while as carpeters we shall
have the pleasure of seeing Gaultheria, Epigzea, Shortia
and other true woodland plants growing freely and
luxuriantly. It is, indeed, their home, and they appre-
ciate it accordingly. The hardy deciduous Azaleas will
revel in such a place, affording their flower beauty in
June and leaf colouring in September. Pernettyas will
grow and flourish like weeds ; the bracken will put on
its richest colouring, and the graceful willow-leaved
Gentian (G. asclepiadea) will be among the happiest of
them all, seeding and re-appearing in its hundreds.

Where Heavier Soils Obtain, the Daffodil will doubtless
hold pride of place, assuming a vigour of which the
garden proper knows too little. Moreover, the plant
appears capable of going on indefinitely, growing, flower-
ing and increasing, without apparently exhausting
itself or the surrounding soil. Most Daffodils, too, revel
in cool moist bottoms, and to some this condition would
appear well nigh essential, seeing how they grow and
outlive those cultivated in richer soils elsewhere. All
the star Narcissi are peculiarly happy in moist wood-
land, and a few of the waist-high giants of the race
demonstrate this unmistakably (Fig. 7). Even the
comparatively fastidious and short-lived Tenby kind is
often good, while such as princeps, Queen of Spain,
Emperor, Sir Watkin, maximus, and ornatus, to name
a few distinctive and varying types, are obviously con-
tent with their lot. Primroses, too, and Wood Hya-
cinths are delightful in their way, and not less so the
Wood Anemones, which, in blue and white, are capable
of giving pretty effects here and there. The Grecian
and Apennine Anemones require a sunnier slope, or at
least a more open spot, to show their precious beauty to
perfection.

In the Rougher Places, Foxglove and Evening Prim-
rose will of necessity play a part, with Loosestrife and

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26 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Willow herb. For plants of bolder habit we must needs
turn to the Meadow-sweets, the giant Groundsels, the
Cow-Parsnip (Heracleum) (Fig. 8), tall Meadow Rues,
Polygonum cuspidatum, and Sachalinense, Bocconia
cordata and the like. In a few places the brilliant
Lobelia cardinalis might appear. Anon the Michaelmas
Daisies may stretch into the woodland in fleecy or hazy
clouds of bluey-white, broken here and there after the
manner of clouds, with overhead garlands of Honey-
suckle or Virgin’s Bower. On the confines of Nut-woods
or plantations the Winter Aconite, Snowdrops and
Crocuses (Fig. 9) might appear while the trees were yet
in their winter garb, with, by-and-by, chequered Fritil-
laries and Blue Bells. In planting, the clustering group
at the foot of a tree, or presently an informal drift of
Daffodil, Fritillary or Snowflake carelessly threading its
way amid the grass will always create a pretty effect.
Avoid continuity : the abrupt breaking-up of the plant-
ing affords rest and change. The Daffodil, Primrose,
or Cowslip might fringe a woodland walk or drive, for
a space, and then tumbling headlong, as it were, down
a bank appear more beautiful than before. Rising
ground seen from a corner or bend is a spot to be made
much of with Daffodils; indeed, instances might be
multiplied without end.

TE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 27

CHAPTER: Vil:

Harpy PLANtTs FoR WATERSIDE
GARDENING.

In but few instances, comparatively, has the garnishing
of waterside or streamlet with suitable vegetation been
successfully carried out. In all probability, judging by
results, it has not been rightly understood. To some
extent, the streamside has been made a dumping ground
for all and sundry flowers that would not thrive elsewhere,
or for the ever-increasing surplus of commoner things
from the borders which would have been better reduced
to ashes by the garden bonfire. To some extent, also,
it has been neglected altogether; in others, rendered
impossible by raised artificial margins, replicas in minia-
ture of the fountain basins in Trafalgar Square. Some
of the ugliest we have seen have, indeed, been so raised,
and, by being brought into near proximity to the house
where they are never requived—savour of nothing so
much as their own artificiality and incongruity. Equally
ugly, and unnatural, too, is that type of artificial pond
which, figuring upon the lawn, has been so arranged
that the water is on a level with the sward itself. The
worst type, however, that we remember to have seen
was so arranged that one side appeared on sloping
ground, hence the pond margin was raised yard-high
reservoir fashion to, we presume, everlastingly demon-
strate its own incongruity and an entire absence of the
fitness of things. The error was rendered more con-
spicuous by the peculiar flatness of the surrounding
acres. Hence, the only useful purpose the erection
could serve would be from a negative point of view.

The Object of Water.—In Nature the clear waters of
the lake are as a mirror to the landscape around, and we
see in them objects of interest and beauty that we see
nowhere else. In Nature, too, water most usually

28 THE. HARDY, FLOWER BOOK

occurs in depressions in the land, there to serve an
obvious purpose. Moreover, in large estates, water is
never, or very rarely, in sight of the dwelling, and,
further, is usually disposed amid suitable environment.
Hence, in dealing with artificial water in the garden,
if we cannot similarly place it, we had better exclude
it altogether. There is, indeed, no reason for the presence
of water in a position where tree, shrub or border
group might render greater service or be in truer keeping
with the surroundings. In one instance of which we
have experience, the water was within a few yards
of the house, a veritable duck-pond, as bad as any and
as evil-smelling as the majority. Its load of scum was
an eternal eyesore, and its owner was advised to partially
fill it up ¢ and plant Japanese Irises, Bamboos and other
things in the place. The only good way of dealing with
artificial water within the limits of the garden proper
is to so deeply excavate the pond area that provision
could be made not only for the depression requisite for
the water-basin, but for the more or less naturally
sloping sides that such things should embrace. This,
indeed, should constitute the keynote of all such work,
a fundamental principle from which there should be no
departing. The cemented portion of the sides—
assuming cement is used at all, and it need not be where
clay is good and abundant—should thinly shelve out
to high- -water mark, and in such a way that the banks
may be grassed to the water’s edge and _ practically
obscure ar rtificial work of any kind, This arrangement
will afford the most pleasing and natural effects. Space
forbids our entering into the fuller details of constructive
work, which, following the guiding principle herein laid
down, will be better in the hands of the good landscape
gardener. An item of importance, however, that we
would urge is the informality of the margin at the water’s
edge, and, in minor degree, of the adjacent sloping sides
(Fig 10.) We make a point of this, having seen a fine
natural water area bereft of life and charm by having
the sides chopped down vertically, levelled and dug

and, subsequently, treated border-fashion. Than this

29

GARDENING

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3u) THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

we have seen nothing more absurd, nothing which
robbed the position of its graceful contour as this il-
considered piece of work, and which merited the failure
it really was. The grassed bank or slope in such a case
must ever be regarded as embroidery, to be ornamented
or studded with vegetable gems, to constitute for each
and all alike a veritable setting, but never to be destroyed.

An Initial Error in Waterside Gardening is the appa-
rent belief that soil is nothing to the plants and that
water is all in all. Many of those who first started the
Japanese Irises in clay soils with their crowns con-
stantly in the water soon realised the error to their
cost. The great mat of root fibres these plants make
cannot ramify freely in clay, and a submerged condition
is well-nigh fatal to the plants. We say this in the full
knowledge of the pretty effects obtained at Wisley
(Fig. 11), where water is always near the plants. But
in moist seasons we have had from open field culture
a greater vigour and flowers nearly twice as large as
those in the instance referred to. In dry seasons,
however, these were less successful, subsequent experi-
ments proving that a modification of the two methods
- is the best. Japanese Irises revel in rich light soils,
leaf mould, peat, sandy loam and manure ; and eighteen
inches deep of this above the level of the water, so that
the roots can descend and get what they need, will
exactly suit the plants. This has been recommended
repeatedly with success where hitherto had been failure.
And not for these only, but also for Primulas and other
plants. The prior failures were probably due as much
to the character—its hardness more particularly—of
the water as to the soil. Such subjects as the American
Swamp and Panther Lilies, Primulas pulverulenta, rosea
and Sieboldi delight in similar soils and partial shade,
while Gunneras, Bamboos, Astilbe, Spireea, Senecio,
Phlox, and Michaelmas Daisy may also be partakers,
should room afford. There should not be many Phloxes,
however, since much garishness would be out of place.
At or near the water’s edge King-Cups, Meadow-
sweet, Bullrush, Butomus and _ Galingale may

31

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ARDENING

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32 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

almost join hands; the great Gunnera forming a sort
of promontory, with the graceful Bamboos on the
slopes a little away. In planting avoid repetitions and
much variety, and leaning to goodly groups of the
bolder things, get from these the best they are capable
of giving.

The Brook-margin or Streamlet, clear as crystal, mid
the woodland, should be made the home of Fern, Loose-
strife, Willow-herb, Spireea, and Astilbe. Primroses,
too, and Forget-me-nots should be present in profusion,
as well as IKKing-Cups, and, in the drier parts, the graceful
Willow Gentian, G. asclepiadea. Here, too, may
Japanese Irises spread, and anon, Day Lilies of the
bolder types. Of good bulbous plants, Camassia and
Leucojum would be welcome, while the best of the
Narcissi—Emperor, Sir Watkin, maximus, Poeticus
ornatus, recurvus, and the double Gardenia-flowered
Narcissus will not only be found happy in constantly
cool or wet ground, but equally so in clay ey loam, either
here or beside the lake. The last named is also good i in
partial shade, though heavy loams and moisture with
little or no root disturbance would appear essential to
a successful flowering. There is, indeed, no lack of
material, rather the opposite; hence, in a closing word,
we would warn the operator not to use too much. The
streamlet or waterside has to be ornamented; not so
entirely occupied by vegetable life to rob it of its cha-
racter and charm. Least of all should it be made a
dumping ground for all and sundry the herbaceous
border cannot contain.

The following article by Miss Gertrude Jekyll, on
“ Streamside Gar dening,” appeared in “ Country Life.”
It is, however, so full of instruction that we take the
liberty of reproducing it in detail.

‘To have water, whether of pond or stream, in a
garden is the greatest possible gain, for it enables the
ingenious garden owner or designer not only to grow in
perfection many beautiful plants, but to treat the
watery places, according to their nature and capability,
in various delightful ways. The kind of stream that is

WATERSIDE GARDENING 33

easiest to deal with is one which has a shallow flow over
a stony bottom and that is not much below the general
ground-level. Here we have, ready-made, the most
desirable conditions, and it is an easy matter to plant
the banks and water edges without any work of shifting
or shaping ground.

“Tf the little waterway passes through dressed flower
garden, it may be tamed to take its part in the garden
design in rills and pools and basins, bordered with
wrought-stone kerbing and planted with such beautiful
things as the Japanese Iris levigata and I. sibirica,
scarlet Lobelia and the fine double Arrowhead. But if
it passes through the outer part of the garden, or near
grounds of wilder character, the plants would be, many
of them, natives—the Water Plantain with its beautiful
leaves, the Flowering Rush (Butomus), the lovely
Water Forget-me-not, the deep yellow Marsh Marigold,
the bright clear yellow Mimulus, so long acclimatised
that we class it asa native ; then for foliage the common
Bur-reed (Sparganium ramosum), Lady Fern and
Dilated Shield Fern; then the double form of the wild
Meadow-sweet and its foreign congeners the pale pink
Spirea venusta, the rosy S. palmata and the larger
white-plumed S. Aruncus, native of the banks of alpine
torrents. There are other of our beautiful native water-
side plants, but these will be enough for a considerable
length of planting. It should be remembered that the
best effects are gained by some restraint in the numbers
of different kinds of plants used. If in one stretch of
20 feet to 25 feet the plants are blue Forget-me-not,
yellow Mimulus and Lady Fern only, one can see and
enjoy these lovely things to the full, and far better than
if there were two or three other objects of interest
besides. It should also be borne in mind that the plant-
pictures of wise selection and good grouping are best
seen from the opposite side of the stream. If its direc-
tion is sinuous, there will be ample opportunity for
carrying the path across and across, so gaining different
aspects of light on flower and water. The path may
cross either by stepping-stones or by some very simple

c

34 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

bridge, something much better than the so-called rustic
bridge that so commonly defaces garden waters. If the
stream is not shallow and stony-bottomed, it is worth
a good deal of work and trouble to make it so.

“Not only is it pleasant to see the clear pebbly
bottom, but it makes more movement of water, and the
movement brings forth that sweet babbling, the lan-
guage of the water, telling of its happy life and activity.
One may learn the value of this both for sight and
sound at many a bridge in country places where a road
crosses a running stream or small river. On one side or
other of the bridge there is generally a shallow, stony
place where the water is not much more than ankle-

| Pround devel

Y UM

Water devel

ee ee

Fig. 12.—Plan showing Section of a Deep Ditch.

deep. However ancient the bridge may be, this shallow
is the evidence of a still older ford. The ford must have
been made by widening the area of the flow and by
shallowing the bottom, putting down stones to hinder
its being washed out. It is a useful lesson in the treat-
ment of garden streams.

‘“Sometimes the only stream one has to deal with is
running water in the bottom of a straight, deep, narrow
ditch, with nearly vertical sides (Fig. 12). Nothing can
be less inspiring to the planter than such a ditch; yet,
on the other hand, nothing is more stimulating to its
power of invention and determination to convert un-
sightliness into beauty. The ditch, as it exists, is use-
less except as a drain, but there is the precious running
water—the one thing most wanted. In such a case it is
often advisable to make an entirely new channel,
excavating a good width so as to gain plenty of space

WATERSIDE GARDENING —_—35

down at the water’s edge, and to give the stream some
other form than a straight one. A natural stream is
seldom straight, and though in gardening in general
straight lines have great value, yet there are often

Fig. 13.—Plan of a Pathway and Stream.

reasons for departing from them, especially in ground-
work of the wilder sort. So with our stream and its
accompanying path, the character of the environment
must be considered, the general lie of the land, the
nature of the places where the water enters and leaves
the garden and so on. The path should swing along
in one easy line, not straight, but not going out of its
way to twist for no reason—an unpardonable offence
in all gardening. The course of the stream may be
more erratic, and a glance at the sketch (Fig. 13) will
show how such planning gives opportunities for planting
and enjoying a limited number of pretty things at a

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LEED,
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aS eV ie ad ieee
Sassoon sem Let Sen, Bieitesee {

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SECTION ten weeming 102 Loe
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Fig. 14.—A Streamside Garden that has been made
from a Deep Ditch.

time, for each bend of the brook may show quite a
different treatment.

“The soil is taken out not only for the wider, shal-
lower stream, but nearly down to the water-level for a

36 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

width of some feet on the pathside. The spare earth is
thrown up beyond the path and shaped so that it rises
first gently and then a little more sharply (Fig. 14).
The rest of the excavation goes on the other side of the
stream, rising easily from rather near the water’s edge.
In the section the shrubs on the banks are shown of the
size they would be about a year after planting ; event-
ually they would be quite as big again. The course of
the stream is dug out less than one foot deep, flattish
rough stones are laid at the bottom, and over them
smaller stones. If, as is likely, the path is inclined to
be damp, it can be made dry and solid by ramming
small stones into its surface, or it can be roughly laid
with flat stones in the wettest places. The path must
have the character of a wild path, not that of a garden
walk—nothing that suggests rolled gravel, and no
straightly-trimmed edges.”

REE LARD V SPLOWER BOOK. 37

CHAPTER VIt-

Harpy PuLants FoR BoupD PICTURESQUE
EFrFEctTs.

What to Plant.—The number of hardy plants of value
by reason of their well-defined leaves or flowering is
not numerous, and, in all probability, the best use is
not made of those that exist. In the chapter on the
shrubbery border we drew attention to the Japanese
Windflower (Anemone japonica) because of itsexceptional
value of leaf and flower, and whose good effect intro-
duced into the border in the ordinary way would be
either entirely lost or greatly minimised. What is true
of the individual is true of the group, and equally so
of other genera whose greater attractions lie in a similar
direction. For example, such things as Yucca, Acanthus
or Bear’s Breech (Fig. 15), Pampas Grass, Arundo,
Gunnera, the recently introduced Senecios, the Poly-
gonums, and others, have a leaf beauty which showld
make them independent of the majority; in other
words, the plants merit a use apart from the rest. By an
intelligent planting of the best of them, the outskirts
of the garden, the border line between pleasure ground
and park, belts in or near the woodland, sloping banks
and prominences, as well as beds or groups in isolation,
may all be beautified to an extent of which those who
have not tried them would hardly credit. Naturally,
however, the size or extent of the grouping would have
to bear some degree of proportion to its surroundings.
For example, a few dozen of such things as Eremurus
(Fig. 16), Yucca, or Lilium giganteum might be ample
in one place, while in another hundreds of them would
not be too many, if the work were being done on a
generous or even lavish scale. By this is not intended
that vulgar type of massing seen in suburban villa
gardens where the chief desire would appear to be the

TATE TARDY

FLOWER

BOOK

15,_ACANTHUS MOLLTS, OR BEAR'S BREBCH, A BOLD AND PICTURESQUE
LIAM DIN IL gUN[Iee

BOLD PICLURESOUER EF RECTS 39

getting of everything on half an acre of ground. The
plants require a little elbow room, an entire absence of
formality, and such intelligent foresight in arranging
that the freshly introduced group will reflect in greater
degree than heretofore the merits of the plants with
which it is now associated. White Japanese Anemone,
Yuccas, or Artemisia lactiflora might be brought into
near proximity with Holly, Yew, Austrian or Corsican
Pine, so that the one would mirror the other into greater
lifeand beauty. Rugged banks or slopes, the approaches
to or openings in the woodland are some of the places
meriting attention in this way. The plants submit to
ordinarily good cultivation, but like others repay extra
care. For list of suitable kinds see Part III.

40) THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

CHART BR Walle
Harpy F.Lorists’ FLOWERS.

What are Florists’ Flowers ?— The term “ florists’
flowers’ is applied to a very large section of hardy and
greenhouse plants that, abounding in var iety, have
been evolved from one or more of thesspecies; ot the
genera involved. The florist is one who specialises in
certain classes of flowers, devoting his time to their
improvement by systematic cross-breeding or by
hybridisation, by selection and cultivation. In these
ways vastly improved strains or groups have arisen ;
new colour shades have been added, while the habit of
the plant, its freedom of flowering, and the form of the
flowers have been much improved. The true florist
is continually working for ideals, the perfecting of some
particular feature in flower or plant, to the eliminating
of the inferior and the superfluous. Examples of such
work may be seen in the Auricula, Carnation, Chrysan-
themum, Delphinium, Gladiolus, Phlox, Pyrethrum,
and other important groups of flowers whose present-
day excellence and variety we owe to the persistent
labours of the florist working from very small beginnings.
In some instances, e.g., the Carnation, Larkspur and
Phlox, the identity of the original species has been
entirely obscured, though a comparison of them with
the finest dev elopments ‘of the moment will but demon-
strate the great gulf between, as well as the infinite
resource and hidden wealth of even a single species.
It is as the unknown wealth of an unworked mine, and,
with the raw material at hand, the twain are but waiting
for workers. In the past much has been accomplished,
and our gardens are thereby greatly enriched. In spite
of this, HOWEVER, the opportunities for improvement are
a hundred-fold greater to-day than fifty years ago, by
reason of the aeneid sa fells influx of new species and that
vastly increased store of knowledge, both of which the

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LOWER BOOK

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(See page

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«

42 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

older generations of florists knew not. The need of the
moment is rather in the direction of discerning, intel-
ligent workers, men having the courage of the conviction
that “ there are as good fish in the sea as ever came out,”’
working to achieve their aims. It is almost invariably
necessary to perpetuate varieties of florists’ flowers by
means of cuttings or offsets, the seedlings having a
tendency to produce plants of a mixed and inferior
quality to those from which they were originally col-
lected. By reason of their importance, we purpose
considering some in more or less detail, giving the
necessary instructions in each case.

HERBACEOUS PONIES.

The herbaceous Pzeony is one of the hardiest and
noblest of flowering plants, absolutely indispensable to
the early summer garden. In large degree it is typified
in the old double crimson European kind, P. officinalis,
which flowers in May or early June. The hybrid sorts,
which are so much appreciated by us, however, have
been partly raised from this and other European sorts,
though chiefly perhaps from such Chinese species as
albiflora, edulis and sinensis, whose flowering is some-
what later. In more recent years a number of Japanese
varieties have been introduced, though these as yet are
open to improvement. Points of importance, which
cannot be ignored, concern their stateliness of growth
and fine leaf development, with which is combined a
chaste or brilliant colour beauty, great variety, and fre-
quently a delicious perfume. Then in the earlier spring-
time we get the rich effect of crimsoned stems and
leaves, as brilliant as the Dogwood in winter, and worth
making much of in the garden. A possibly weak point
is the transient nature of the flowers, more particularly
the single and semi-double varieties, though even the
best doubles share this to some extent with the rest.
Then there is a certain limit to their flowering, an
entire absence of profuseness which characterises other

HARDY FLORISTS’ FLOWERS 43

short-lived flowers. There is, however, a great wealth
of variety, of species and forms, following each other in
rapid succession, and which keeps the Peony before us
for weeks. Moreover, it would appear almost immune
from insect pest or fungus.

Its Adaptability.—In no sense or degree can the her-
baceous Peony be regarded as fastidious. A lover of
the deepest and best cultivated soils, it is surprising to
what perfection it may be grown in sandy and com-
paratively shallow and light soils. To these, indeed,
the plants take kindly and readily. The only classes of
soils I would not recommend for these are those of a
tenacious clay nature, and in these, too, more than in
all besides, they appear prone to a species of root scab
or canker, quite unknown, I believe, in soils of light
texture. Though most frequently seen as isolated
examples in the mixed border, I would strongly urge
their use in beds or bold groups apart, or even specialised
in extensive borders which they might share in spring
with the bolder Daffodils and some of the finer Lilies
in autumn. The Peony, indeed, is worthy of such
specialisation, and probably in no other way can it be
seen to such advantage. Permitted to grow and de-
velop on natural lines, the stately grandeur of the plant,
its leaf beauty, and its charm would be fully revealed.
A great Peony border fringing a carriage drive having
a grass verge of five feet or six feet in width in its imme-
diate front would be a sort of revelation: something to
admire, something to remember. Moreover, it would
worthily present to view a distinguished race, a race
whose unfettered beauty would appeal to all. The
border-grown example, on the other hand, is tied hand
and foot ; its bonds the penalty of a feeble unappre-
ciative mind. Bundle or beesom- tied, as we have said
elsewhere, its greatest attributes are forfeited by thought-
less work. The Peony is one of the best, and worthy
of our best in garden or skill. Occasionally it is seen
in the woodland, though for this purpose there is none so
good as the old double crimson P. officinalis, which is
always early awake.

td THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Soil and Cultivation..—The soil cannot be too deeply
or too well prepared, and a depth of three feet should be
at the disposal of the plants, which, in their finest de-
velopment may reach four-and-a-half feet high. There-
fore, deep trenching and heavy manuring should be the
ordertot the-day. The manuring, too, may extend to
almost the full depth, since the roots—great powerful
thongs—descend to quite three feet in the established
plant. By a generous system of treatment, liquid
manuring and copious waterings, we have grown them
well in soils not more than two feet deep, t though they
well repay for the remainder. For light soils, cow
manure is preferred, because of its cooling nature. For
other soils ordinary stable manure is Encl Of these
there should be no stint. Copious applications of
liquid manure are highly desirable in winter time where
light soils obtain, with a deluging of water at other
times and up to the time of flow ering. With such treat-
ment giant flowers result, so large, indeed, as to surprise
even those who know them well. The flowers seen at
exhibitions are the result of ordinary field culture,
though the amateur who specialises need not stop at
that. In any case, no one is likely to err on the side of
generousness or to upset the powerful root organisation
of which the Pzeony is composed.

When to Plant.—We desire to emphasize the “‘ When ”
and the ‘“‘ How,” since both are of the utmost impor-
tance. We have shown that the Peony is one of the
noblest of hardy flowers, though the cultivation of no
plant, save the Christmas Roce is so little understood.
Hence, if our emphasis in this direction would appear
to order on dogmatising, we ask that it be accepted 1 in
good faith, as the embodiment of rip2 experience and
observation, of much learning and unlearning. In these
ways we discovered, years ago, the proper method and
time of planting, and none need despair of growing the
Peony satisfactorily if he will but follow the same path.
The ‘‘ When to plant,” therefore, is the early autumn,
the best months, September and October, and the earlier
the better. We have not sufficient space here to discuss

VATED. VE LORISTES: PLOW ERS 45

the why and wherefore of this; it is stated as an
indisputable fact of vital importance to the future well-
being of the plant.

‘* How to Plant ’’ is equally important. To plant big
clumps of the Peony intact is an almost fatal mistake,
as their subsequent behaviour will demonstrate. The
right kind of plant is that composed of three to five
crowns. If youthful, that 1s to say, of one year’s nur-
sery cultivation following division, it should be in every
way excellent. These re-establish quickly and do well ;
freshly divided examples take a little longer. At
planting time the crowns should be buried at least two
inches beneath the surface. If planted for immediate
effect, the units of any group should be about two feet
asunder. Three or five make a good group, though
borders of small size would be best with solitary ex-
amples. A noble border, planted in conjunction with
Lilies and Daffodils, should have the specimens alter-
nately disposed at least three feet asunder. Planted
and treated as suggested such a border would be good
for a score of years. It would become a feature of any
garden in which it was placed, and, moreover, would do
the Pzony justice.

How to Increase the Peony.—lirst wash or shake
away all soil from the roots. This will reveal to some
extent the solid root stock and the thong-like tap roots
as they cross and recross each other. If the plant is
large, lay it on its side and insert two garden forks back
to back, driving them into the root-stock two inches
below the crowns. Now wrench asunder by pressing
the forks outwardly in opposite directions, and a sever-
ance like that of rent oak will be effected without loss.
Small plants or subsequent divisions will be best divided
by using small hand forks in a similar way. To cut
through the root-stock with any sharp instrument }s as
bad as it is wrong, and is usually attended with much
loss. To attempt to divide these stubborn-rooted sub-
jects with hatchet, chopper, or spade, as some advise,
is the surest way of making mincemeat of them.

eae

46 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

THE DELPHINIUM OR LARKSPUR.

Its Use in the Garden.—Among hardy herbaceous
perennials, the Delphinium or Larkspur knows no peer.
Unique among hardy flowers, it is absolutely so in the
towering splendour of its celestial spires, as these in end-
less gradations rear their tall columns to a height of
six feet or even eight feet. Comparable to nothing but
itself, it possesses a characteristic beauty and dignity
of its own; distinguished of leaf, imposing in stature,
unapproachable in the glistening, dazzling splendour of
its flowers, as these in stately columns presently form
themselves into battalions—bold, impressive, grand.
The well-grown example has an air of distinction about
it that is not excelled. To-day it is the admired of
thousands ; ere long it will be the plant of the million,
providing rich clouds of blue and violet flowers in never-
ending variety, and without a rival in the world. Hap-
pily, too, the plant is of easy culture, succeeding in
most well cultivated soils; is true perennial, not prone
to fastidiousness. The plant has been enormously im-
proved during recent years, hence has become indis-
pensable to all who garden chiefly in the open air.

Its Adaptability and Culture.—The best effects are
produced by massing the plants in beds or borders, a bold
group of one colour only. In shrubbery border plant-
ings, or where the plant is employed as a great fringe
*twixt lawn and shrub, this idea may be modified. In
such instances, good seedling strains or a judicious
selection of named sorts wil! be the best. In other
instances, borders might be devoted to the plants, their
varying heights—two-and-a-half feet to seven feet—
lending themselves admirably to an arrangement
whereby they would presently constitute great galleries
of colour. In grouping, the bolder growing sorts should
be arranged two or three feet asunder ; the more slender
growing sorts—Belladonna and the lke—requiring
about one-and-a-half feet of space. So arranged, the
plants would endure, without loss, for two, and, in some
instances, three years. In the matter of cultivation

HARDY FLORISTS’ FLOWERS _ 47

the Larkspur, while not a voracious subject, delights in
rich soils well and deeply prepared. It takes most
quickly to light, well-drained, loamy soils, though
bolder and more enduring, perhaps, in soils of stronger
character. Poor, hungry and shallow soils are starva-
tion; wet, tenacious clays, doom. Prepare the soil,
then, to a depth of two-and-a-half feet or more, and
incorporate an abundance of well-decayed stable manure.
Heavy soils should receive an ample dressing of lime,
also wood ashes and leaf mould ; anything, indeed, that
will assist porosity.

Planting and Increasing.—The best planting season
is spring—March or early April—when the new growth
is appearing. The best type of plant—the only one,
indeed, worthy of serious thought—is that from the
open ground. Where pot plants are received the soil
should be washed from them prior to planting. If
planted in the old solid ball of earth they may so re-
main for weeks, unable to penetrate the new soil. Keep
the crowns two inches below the surface soil in planting.
The Delphinium is increased by seeds and by division.
Sow the former in shallow drills in the open ground soon
after it ripens. Division should be effected in spring,
the point of a sharp knife—the plant meanwhile lying
on its side after being freed of all soil—inserted in the
root stock below the crowns being the best. The work,
however, requires care and intelligence to insure the
presence of root-fibres and a good crown to each divi-
sion. Cuttings are useless uniess detached by a heel:
the complete shoot, and that portion of the root-stock
to which it is united. These root readily in a cold
frame.

Pests.—Its greatest pest is the slug; often more
troublesome on heavy soils than on light ones. The
pest secretes itself in the crown of the plant during
winter and early spring, and may be dislodged, dis-
couraged, or deterred by frequent sprinklings of soot,
by coverings of fine coal ash, and by first syringing the
crowns with a quassia soft soap emulsion. Around, the

48 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

soil might be pricked up and given light dressings of
some soil fumigant, which must not, however, reach the
plants.

THe HERBACEOUS PHLOX
(P. decussata).

Its Use in the Garden.—In the garden in its day the
Phlox is on a par with the Pyrethrum, Iris, Peony, or
Larkspur, dominating it by its presence, its brilhancy
or purity, and its exclusiveness. It is the equal of any,
and surpassing some by the remarkable profusion of its
flowers. It is to the August and September garden
what the Pyrethrum and Pony are to June and July,
and, like them, providing a feast of colour beauty:
vivid, brilliant, or of chaste purity—with not a little of
an all-pervading fragrance. Like the Larkspur, it is
so amenable to cultivation and so well adapted to
British gardens that it is cultivated by the thousand,
affording pleasure to all. In its day it holds undisputed
sway; is, indeed, one of the indispensables, of good
carriage, happily self-supporting, the leafy stems
terminated by well-shouldered panicles of flowers often
twelve or fifteen inches through. Of a remarkable
colour range, excelling most of all in rich reds, brilliant
scarlet, salmon, pink, blue, heliotrope, puce, and the
most glistening whites, it appeals to a large circle ;
its complete hardiness and high decorative merit but
adding to a popularity which is well nigh universal.
The Phloxes of our time are immeasurably superior to
those of a few decades ago; new colour shades have
also been added.

Its Adaptability and Culture.— The Phlox is well suited
for bed or border, or for making fine colour pictures in
shrubbery or in garden scenery anywhere. It should
always be boldly massed (Figs. 17 and 18), never planted
feebly or as isolated specimens. Preferably, also, the
colours should be used alone, a scarlet here, a white
there, and a violet or blue beyond. The arranging of

49

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50 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

near colour shades in close proximity is wrong; the
stronger and more striking will overwhelm the weak.
Hence a rigid selection is calculated to provide the best
results. The plant is free rooting, and has a voracious
appetite. A lover of cool, moist soils, it should be
catered for in all these ways if it is to be the great orna-
ment it really can be in the decoration of the garden.
In the summer time the beds and borders may be
practically flooded with water twice a week to the benefit
of the plant, and to the full development of its huge
panicles of flowers. Not greatly fastidious as to soils,
save that it dislikes those of a heavy, tenacious clay,
the plant luxuriates in all free, rich loams, and the
greater the depth, and the deeper and richer the cul-
tivation, the better the results. Phloxes planted from
the yearling reach their prime in the third year, though
they may be made do good service for a further-like
term with generous treatment. This has reference to
the cutting-raised plant ; the divided example is more
erratic and cannot thus be gauged.

When to Plant.—Preference is given to early autumn,
though the plant, being a perpetual rooting subject, is
by no means exacting in this respect. The earlier the
planting is done, however, the better the hold obtained
upon the new soil, and the better the results. In light
or very sandy soils it is a mistake to delay planting till
late spring; summer is upon the plants before they are
established, the result being most disappointing.

Propagation.—The only methods of propagation
calling for comment here are by cuttings and divisions.
The cuttings may be secured from the stems after
flowering by a first shortening back of the flower stems,
detaching the resultant shoots by a heel and inserting
them in a cold frame in sandy soil; or by employing
the young shoots in spring. To procure these latter, a
plant or two should be placed in a frame to encourage
new growth, and when this is four inches or so long,
treat them in the usual way by cutting to a joint. These
young shoots root best in a greenhouse temperature of
about 50 degrees. It will be noticed here that two

51

HARDY FLORISTS’ FLOWERS

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THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

b

distinct types of cutting arerecommended, ?.¢., the “ heel,’
comprising a small shoot and the base or junction
connecting it with the parent stem, and the “ joint ”’
cutting, which consists of a new shoot capable, when
rooted, of elongating into a flower specimen. The
“heel” cutting of autumn is differently circumstanced ;

its top growth, which is small, does not elongate, the new
growth being dependent upon the dev elopment of latent
eyes or ree at the base of the cutting > hence the need
of both types in their season. Division of the old plants
can be easily effected by means of two forks during
autumn or spring.

THE PENTSTEMON.

This chapter is written under the general heading
of ‘ Hardy Florists’ Flowers,” though it has to be ad.
mitted that in many parts of these islands the hybrid
Pentstemons are not reliably hardy. These are chiefly
descended from P. Hartwegi, a Mexican species, also
known as P. gentianoides, and possibly also, to some
extent at least, from P. cobeea from the Western United
States. So important are they, however, to the hardy
garden in summer that they are included herewith,
frame or cool greenhouse treatment—a temperature not
exceeding 40 degrees—being all that is required during
winter. A much hardier. set is the so-called “Gem”
class, probable descendants of C. campanulatus. These
are characterised by narrower leaves, and by smaller,
more tubular flowers, by profuseness of growth, and
floriferousness. As a class they are invaluable, though
as yet they do not figure as florists’ flowers. They are,
indeed, graceful enough and beautiful enough as they
are. May they ever remain with such good attributes
unspoiled. The florists’ set proper are of a bolder type,
their fine presence, handsome flowers of many colours
on bold spikes, and simple cultural requirements ren-
dering them highly popular. In colour they embrace
every conceivable shade of crimson, scarlet and pink,
with violet or blue. White is practically non-existent

HARDY VELOTIS TS FLOWERS o3

and is not wanted. Those having scarlet, white-
throated flowers, however, are excellent and make a
fine display.

Their Adaptability and Culture.—Well grown ex-
amples are usually waist high, and are suited to any
form of outdoor gardening. Massed in beds or borders
they are effective in the extreme, particularly so when
grown in beds, with the near-by lawn as a useful foil.
Then in shrubbery or herbaceous border they may be
liberally used, since no other plant of moderate height
can equal them in colour effect. They succeed quite
well in good cultivated garden soils.

Propagation.—The methods of increase are by seeds
and cuttings, splendid strains being raised from seeds
sown in January in shght greenhouse warmth, and grown
on for a time in pots prior to planting in the open garden
in April or May. The seedlings may have the points
once removed to cause them to branch more freely, or
they may be grown on and planted without this. The
named sorts, or, indeed, any selected varieties, are only
to be perpetuated by means of cuttings, (a) in early
autumn, from a reserve unflowered batch planted for
this particular purpose ; and (b) in spring, from stock
plants lifted and potted after flowering and given green-
house shelter for the winter. The autumn-rooted cut-
tings give a big early display of flowers; the spring-
rooted cuttings from under glass constitute an admirable
succession ; while the seedlings, stopped once or twice
it may be, bring up the rear in right regal fashion, glad-
dening the waning days of autumn with their resplendent
flowers. Hence, by the adoption of all three methods a
sumptuous feast is rendered possible through several
months of the year.

THE PYRETHRUM OR COLOURED MARGUERITE

(Pyrethrum roseum or Chrysanthemum Coccineum).

From the wild Caucasian species—the most important
from the garden point of view of which this genus is

54 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

composed—there has arisen a galaxy of varieties, both
single and double, that collectively are without a pa-
rallel in the hardy plant garden at any season. Abso-
lutely and reliably hardy in all parts of the British Isles,
rich and brilliant in colour, providing a waving field of
flower-heads impossible to portray by word-picture or
brush, these Pyrethrums stand unequalled, whether as
garden ornaments in flower bed or border, or as ideal
flowers—graceful and artistic—in the cut state. These
beautiful flowers have been so aptly styled ‘‘ Coloured
Marguerites’”’ that we think no further description is
needed, Of graceful fern-like leaf tufts, the plants at
flowering time rise to two-and-a-half feet or so high, and
give welcome colour touches wherever they may chance
to be placed. Those having single flowers, so-called,
have an airy grace of their own, and florists and ladies
like them because of a charm from which all formality
is eliminated. And not only as garden flowers, but as
market flowers, are they valued, and there is no greater
tribute to universal popularity than this.

Its Adaptability and Culture.—The Pyrethrum well
cultivated is capable of embellishing any part of the
garden, flower bed, border, or shrubbery border. It is
at its best in May and June, a second flowering of lesser
value and beauty appearing in August or thereabouts.
The plant revels in root moisture when in growth, is a
voracious feeder, delighting in and well repaying culti-
vation in the richest and deepest of soils, with a de-
cided preference for light soils which permit of the great
mass of root-fibres ramifying freely. It is not happy in
cold or wet, badly-drained soils ; in these it is of sluggish
growth, and, moreover, the slug is its chief enemy in
such soils, From the single crown at planting time its
highest beauty and excellence is reached in from two to
three years, when the plants should be divided.

Propagation.—This is best effected by division, either
in March, or in July, after flowering. At such times the
roots should be carefully freed of all soil by washing or
shaking out, and by careful division, preferably to single
crowns if root-fibres are obtainable to each. Such

HARDY FLORISTS’ FLOWERS 55

divisions require potting and cold frame treatment for
a month or so to start them into growth, when they are
fit for replanting. The spade division of such things is
crude and bad, and as it rarely gives good results, it
should be discouraged. The plants should be arranged
two feet apart, or rather less. In light soils, planting
may be done at almost any time; in others, March and
April will be found the best. These plants may also be
raised from seeds sown in January or February. As a
rule, however, it is not worth the amateur’s while,
named varieties being both plentiful and cheap.

56 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

CHAPTER ES
EFFECTIVE BoRDER GROUPING.

ELSEWHERE in the chapters devoted to the mixed border
and the shrubbery border respectively, we have dealt
with certain phases of grouping. Now, by means of
further illustrations, more particularly to show arrange-
ment, we hope to make the subject of effective grouping
more clear and helpful to all. Formerly the only pre-
vailing idea was that of a collection of plants, the greater
the number of varieties or species employed, the greater
the boast of their owner or gardener. Then, the idea of
“effective grouping,’ of arranging bold masses of the
best, was unknown, and borders, generally, were a sort of
indiscriminate mixture, a somewhat weedy-looking lot.
In those days our schooling had not long begun ; whereas
now the school-days are past, a fairly good apprenticeship
has been served, and some useful knowledge acquired. In
earlier days the feeble efforts of planting solitary ex-
amples were a hindrance to progress, and while attract-
ing none, caused many to hesitate. To-day all this is
changed ; the value and-capabilities of select plants in
masses (Fig. 19) are known and appreciated, hence, a
well-arranged border is an attraction, a something which
the visitor desires to emulate, in all probability surpass.
Its period of attractiveness cannot well be gauged. It
may be but a question of weeks, it may be of months.
Of necessity this will depend to some degree upon its
extent, its make-up, its variety, and not least the dic-
tates of its owner. That is to say, a border may be at
its best in early or late summer, or autumn, by planting
mainly the subjects flowering at such seasons. Or,
such a border, planted with an inteligent knowledge of
the subjects employed, might be made presentable over
the whole of the seasons indicated. A good idea of a
border arrangement which remains effective for a long
period is seen in Fig. 19, and the effect of a similar

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58 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

border in Fig. 20. Such a border may either be modified
or extended, while a freer use of Michaelmas Daisies in
the back groups would extend the autumn display if
desired. Hollyhocks, too, would heighten the display
in July and August.

The Only Essential to good grouping is the employ-
ment of a series of youthful plants so arranged in near
proximity to each other that at flowering time they will
have grown together, thus forming a natural group or
colony. We make a point of “ youthful plants’’ as
opposed to big lumps of things more or less exhausted
by previous flowerings. Solid clumps of Michaelmas
Daisies, Phloxes, or Pyrethrums would be entirely
wrong. Anda big spreading tuft of a Flag Iris would be
equally so. The free use of such material, however, is
still indulged in, for no other reason than that it exists
at the moment. It is, however, a big mistake, a barrier
to complete success. Cultivators of the Chrysanthemum
or perpetual-flowering Carnation know well the value of
the youthful plant, and, raising new plants annually,
discard the old. The hardy plant-gardener in large
degree has yet to learn this vital principle, though he
who is aiming at high excellence will not long ignore it.
Of necessity there will be need for modification and
adaptation to circumstances, and we must not be taken
as saying that there is need for annual propagation,
planting and discarding so far as effective border group-
ing 1s concerned. Phloxes and Delphiniums are good
for three years, they gain height by their longer tenure
of the soil and are more imposing. Pyrethrums are best
at two years. Peeonies well planted and in deep loam
may be good from six to a dozen years. Michaelmas
Daisies vary in their sections. The mat-rooting Novi-
Belgis we would replant annually, in a few instances
biennially, while cordifolius and Nove Angliz would
give a good account of themselves up to the third year.
Flag Irises are also good for a like period, provided
always a start is made by planting these in March or
early April, using the single plants only, that section of
rhizome formed during the preceding season’s growth.

EFFECTIVE BORDER

7
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GROUPIN

‘GOIWAd DNOT V YHAO FZAILODAAA AT GTNOHS YACUOT CAYNVAXUAP

-TIAM V— O06 “tT

60 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

To plant a great tuft of Flag Irises intact is fatal to good
results, if not to a long-enduring plant. It is a mistake
to plant these things “ midst the breath of parched July.”
The current season’s growth is then ended, hence the
plant is thrown on its own resources for months, and
often with enfeebling results.

DHE TARDY LOWER BOOK G1

CHAPTER. 3S

PROPAGATION OF HarRDy HERBACEOUS
PERANTS.

THE Propagation of hardy herbaceous plants is effected
in a variety of ways; by seeds, cuttings, division of the
root-stock, and by root-cuttings, each of which has a
value of its own. Seeds, of course, are Nature’s method
of perpetuating all vegetable life, and in gardening is a
cheap and useful way. Varieties of florists’ flowers,
which do not come true from seeds, or are slow or un-
reliable in vegetating, are, however, best increased from
cuttings. Certain “strains’”’ of florists’ flowers, ¢.g.,
Pentstemons, are of such high excellence when raised
from seeds that these suit a very large number.

By Seeds.—Garden calendar writers and not a few
book writers also have the knack—not always a happy
one—of saying that “seeds should be sown as soon as
ripe,’ believing, we suppose, that such advice is in
imitation of Nature’s way of shedding seeds at that
period. We have no data, however, as to how long
these self-sown seeds lie before vegetating, though we
have direct personal knowledge that certain seeds
“sown as soon as ripe’ have remained dormant a year
or more after others of the same batch which remained
unsown for months had vegetated. To some extent,
therefore, and in certain instances, vegetation may be
said to be hastened by the seeds being kept some time
in the dry state before sowing. The great range and
variability of seeds, however, precludes any detailed
discussion of the question here.

What we prefer to do, therefore, is to indicate some
of the more vital points—principles—in this connection.
The larger-seeded subjects, such as Lupin, Perennial-
Pea, Iris, Kniphofia, Anthericum, Eremurus, Christmas
Rose, Adonis, or quickly vegetating subjects like
Anchusa, Gaillardia, Columbine, Iberis, and Alyssum,

62 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

are best sown either in drills in the open ground, or with
the protection of a spare frame light. Phlox, Iris,
Christmas Rose, certain of the Anemones, including
A. Hepatica, and others very slow to vegetate, should
be sown in a place apart or in pans or pots, so that they
may be kept for years. All small seeds are best sown
in pans or boxes, owing to the interference by birds and
animals when sown in the open ground. Seeds of large
size should be covered nearly half an inch deep; the
smaller seeds should be merely covered their own depth
with very fine soil or sand. Primulas and Polyanthus,
working by their own weight into the interstices of the
soil, are often best without any soil covering at all. The
seeds of these, also Eremurus and Columbine, soon lose
vitality if long kept out of the soil, and many other in-
stances might be given did space permit.

A Point of Importance is the Time of Sowing.—Fre-
quently we are asked whether seeds of perennials sown
in August or September would flower and make a show
the following spring or summer. The answer is an
emphatic “ No’’! since the seeds would not probably
have vegetated before the arrival of spring. A few of
the more precocious kinds may produce a flower or two,
but the flowering would neither be good nor representa-
tive. The point of importance, therefore, is that the
seed sowing be so done that the seedlings have the whole
of their natural growing season ahead in which to make
themselves. Perennials, generally, take two or three
years before reaching full maturity. Kniphofias, Pzonies,
Irises, Eremuri and Lilies take much longer, hence the
need for careful cultivation all along the line. Avoid
thick sowing. Indulge in timely transplanting. To
many open-air seed sowing may present difficulties of
soil, but if these can be overcome by the addition of
well pulverized earth or sand and cocoanut fibre in com-
bination, with due protection from all animal life, the
open-air seed bed will be found a great help. Always
sow in drills. This system admits of weeding and
hoeing, and the latter is most helpful. The gentle hot-
bed and slight greenhouse warmth are other and efficient
aids to seed raising.

PROPAGATION 63

By Division.—Certain classes of plants may be divided
with the greatest ease, others require considerable care.
Michaelmas Daisies, Trollius, Iris, Helenium, Sun-
flowers, Arabis, Aubrietia, Hepatica, London Pride
(Figs. 21 and 22), Achillea, Phlox, Lychnis (Figs. 23 and
24), and Pyrethrums are instances of plants that are
readily pulled to pieces or divided by inserting the point
of a strong knife below the ground level of the shoots.
The Peony and Christmas Rose require much greater
care, and for these all the soil must first be washed
away from their roots with water. Generally the Colum-
bines are unsatisfactory after division, and seeds will
be found a better method of increase. For Ponies and
Kniphofias, and, indeed, all plants having stubborn
root stocks, or those whose roots are crossed or con-
torted, I know of no better way of dividing than by
inserting two small hand-forks back to back in the root-
stock below the crowns and wrenching them outwards
in opposite directions. This has the effect of rending
even with the grain of the root-stock and little or no
loss is entailed. Blunt and sharp-cutting implements :
the spade, chopper, hatchet or edging-iron, cutting
through destroy both roots and root fibres. By none
can such tools be used advantageously, and in the hands
of the least practical they are highly dangerous. There
is no better way of spoiling the plants and their roots
than by chopping and hacking—the ordinary methods
of the inexperienced—with such tools as these. Hence
their use is to be sternly discouraged.

By Cuttings.—A chief value of cutting propagation
lies in the greatly increased numbers of young plants
thereby assured, and which to the specialist is a great
asset. Cuttings of soft-wooded subjects, such as
Phloxes, Sunflowers, Pentstemons, Perennial Candytuft
(Figs. 25 and 26), and others having more or less solid
stems, are best made to a joint, z.e., that portion of the
stem from which usually the leaves emerge. By re-
moving the lower leaves and cutting in a horizontal
direction close to the base of the leaves, the “‘ joint ”’ is
revealed, at least in part. These root best in slight

64 THE HAKDY FROWER BOOK

Fig. 21.—An Old Plant of London Pride.

Fig. 22.—Thvee Typical Young Shoots of the
Old Plant shown in Fig. 21.

PROPAGATION.

Fig. 24.—Divided Portions of the Old Plaut
shown in Fig. 23.

66 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

warmth. The piping is a modified form of the joint,
and was formerly most in vogue in the propagation of
Pinks. These in June and July root well in a cold frame.
Hollow-stemmed cuttings—Delphinium and Pyrethrum,
for example—and some others must have a heel attached

Fig. 25.—Portion of an Old Plant of Evergreen Candytuft,
with two Shoots suitable for Cuttings.

and are best with cold frame treatment. But whether
of joint or heel, the cutting should be always of a youth-
ful nature. Portions of ‘growth already hardened by
age or exhausted by flowering are of but little use to
the propagator. To avoid these, certain plants should
be cut back after flowering, and thus made to produce
the right material for cuttings.

PROPAGATION 67

By Root Cuttings.—This consists of detaching portions
of the roots of plants, making them into unifor m lengths
of about one-and-a-half inches, and inserting in rows in
shallow boxes or pans of sandy soil. The top of the
cutting should be just exposed. The winter season,
November to Febr uary, is the best time. A temperature
of about 50 degrees is best for the cuttings. Anchusa,
Phlox, Stokesia, Gaillardia, Statice, Eryngium, Oriental

Fig. 26.—Shoot of Evergreen Candytuft as severed from the
Plant on the left, and prepared as a Cutting on the right.

Poppy, Japanese Anemone, Primula and Senecio are
a few among the many which may be increased in this
way. As an adjunct to seeds and cuttings, the method
is of great value to the hardy plant specialist. Root
cuttings, when they have started into growth, should be
treated as ordinary cuttings, potting them and giving
frame protection before bedding them out. Quite a
number of herbaceous perennials “display their tendency
to break from the roots, though most of those above
named do not.

68 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

CHAPTER XI.
DISEASES AND INSEcT PEsTs.

DESPITE a vigorous constitution and complete hardi-
ness, certain tribes of herbaceous plants are prone
to diseases of a fungoid nature, which are both dis-
figuring and weakening. The MHollyhock and _ the
Madonna Lily (L. candidum) are cases in point. The
great majority, happily, are free, or the attacks are
isolated or rare. In some of these, doubtless, they have
either been brought into being, or greatly encouraged
to develop, by uncongenial soil conditions, bad drainage
creating stagnation, or like cause. In such instances as
these, the remedy is obvious to all, viz., more perfect
drainage. In wet and clayey soils this may be achieved
to some extent by a dressing of lime, which, coagulating
the particles of the soil, permits of a freer passage of the
water through the agency of the interstices thus formed.
Burnt clay (ballast) to such soils has a like effect, and is,
of course, of permanent good. Both in conjunction with
the usual drainage of the soil should be made much of.
Because a plant loves moisture it does not follow that
it will do in any form. Moisture, indeed, may be good:
stagnation may prove fatal.

Fungoid Diseases.—A disfiguring fungoid disease, like
that affecting the Hollyhock, is best combated by
spraying with Condy’s Fluid, Bordeaux mixture, or a
salt solution every fourteen days. Use a breakfast-
cupful of common salt to three gallons of water. Employ
an Abol syringe with fine mist-like spray so that the
solution does not reach the roots of the plant. For
Hollyhock disease, Messrs. Webb and Brand recom-
mend the following :—Slake one bushel of lime,
and when cool add one bushel of soot, 4 _ Ibs.
flowers of sulphur, and 2 ozs. sulphate of copper, finely
powdered. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, and

DISHASESS AND ENSECL “PESTS. 69
dust the plants well over with it three or four times
during the growing season and when the leaves are
damp.

For Irises, Gladioli, Lilies, Violets, Christmas Roses,
Delphiniums and Carnations spraying with Sulphide of
Potassium is to be preferred, one ounce to three gallons
of water, not oftener than every fourteen days. For the
first two-named, because of their sword-shaped leaves—
though it may be used in all cases with good results
a little soft soap should be added to the solution. This
will assist it to adhere to the leaves of the plants. Both
surfaces of the leaves, upper and under, should be
wetted. This is important, as the fungus, indeed, often
vegetates on the under surfaces of the leaves. In low-
lying and damp situations, where certain plants are
more prone to disease than in higher ground with more
bracing air, it is best to try preventive measures. Don’t
wait till the plants are overwhelmed by disease before
making a start. Above all things—this advice is golden
—burn at once all the fungus-smitten parts of plants ;
don’t take them to the rubbish heap for a time, for they
may reappear in the garden another year a thousand-
fold stronger.

Insect Pests.—The chief of these are Wireworm, Slug,
and short-tailed Vole. The only remedy for Wireworm
that I know, apart from birds with young and at other
times, is “‘ Catch and Kill.’ Soil fumigants are said to
do the latter, but that is not the author’s experience.
Lily bulbs, Carnations, the rhizomatous Irises, and all
the Gladiol suffer considerably from their attacks.
Daffodils, happily, are immune. Slices of Potato on
sticks, and sunk into the earth, is a good way of trapping
them. Frequent stirring of the soil also renders them
a prey for birds. Gas lime is efficacious, but can only
be applied to vacant ground.

Slugs.—These are easily killed by contact with the
advertised soil fumigants. Common salt, either dry or in
solution, is also fatal to them, and is strongly recom-
mended for vacant ground. Apply the solution from a
coarse-rosed watering can. Neither of these must be

70 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

applied to the plants or even quite near them. In the
case of Eremurus, Larkspur, Pyrethrum, or other plant
suffering much from their attacks, owing to their
hibernating in the crowns, a quassia and soft soap
solution syringed into the crowns will be helpful. It
should be followed by a covering of coal ash, which is
protective. We have found the V.T.H. slug trap,
baited with bran, excellent for catching these pests.
Caterpillars are best got rid of by hand picking and
dropping them into a small pail with salt and water.
This is also effectual for slugs and snails in those instances
where hand-picking has to be resorted to.

Aphides and Cuckoo-Spit.—These are easily got rid
of by syringing with paraffin and soft soap emulsion, or
by the use of tobacco water. For the last-named, a
little force from the syringe will remove the protective
“spittle.” Neither do great harm to herbaceous
plants. For Carnations, Marguerites and other plants
subject to attacks from leaf miners, a quassia and soft
soap emulsion should be sprayed over the plants to
render them distasteful to the egg-depositing fly. Soot
water might also be employed to the same end.

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 7B

PART Ou:
INTRODUCTION.

In the following pages we give, in alphabetical order,
a selection of the most useful and ornamental genera to
be found among herbaceous plants. Distinct varieties
are also added, together with brief cultural details, best
methods of increase, and other salient points. For
fuller and more precise information in the matter of
seed sowing and propagation, the reader is referred to
the special chapters on these subjects in Part I. Asa
guide to the planter, the approximate heights of the
established plants are given, though it should be remem-
bered that these vary, not only with localities, but with
soil depth and richness, rainfall, seasons and other
things. Whilst not ignoring the dwarfer growing
subjects, greater attention has been paid to the more
showy—the indispensables—which, by reason of good
habit or freedom of flowering, will be found most attrac-
tive in the border. As a means of familiarising these
plants and rendering reference thereto of easier moment,
the popular English names—following the generic, or
family name—will be found given in brackets.

72 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Acantholimon (Prickly Thrift)—The most serviceable
species of this small genus is A. glumaceum ; the choicest,
A. venustum. The flowers are coloured rose and pink
respectively, and are borne in two ranked spikes of six
inches or so high. The leaf tufts are dense and spiny. A.
glumaceum is a capital edging plant on light soils, and
both are good in the rock garden. Flowers in summer.
Increased by seeds, careful division in spring, or by
small heel cuttings in August.

Acanthus (Bear's Breech).—Stately herbaceous peren-
nials best suited to picturesque grouping or in beds in
isolation. Their handsome leafage has been as much
esteemed by the sculptor as by the gardener, and is
frequently seen in Corinthian architecture. When
established, the noble tufts of arching, glossy green or
silvered leaves reach a yard high and often six feet across ;
the flower spikes about six feet high. Given generous
treatment they are noble indeed. <A. mollis latifolius,
rose and white, and A. spinosus spinosissimus, rosy flesh
coloured, are the best. Flowers in July. Increased by
division in spring, seeds and root cuttings. (See illus-
tration, page 38.)

Achillea (Milfoil, Yarrow or Sneezewort).—The border
kinds are all free, robust growing subjects, and succeed
well in ordinary garden soil. A. filipendulina and its
variety eupatorium are four to five feet high, with flatish
corymbs of yellow flower heads. A. Ptarmica fl.-pl.,
A.P. The Pearl, and A. P. Perry’s white, the most recent
addition to the group, are white-flowered and useful in
the cut state. A. alpina, also white-flowered, two feet ;
and A. millefolium roseum, two-and-a-half feet, are very
desirable. Division in early spring.

Aconitum (Monk’s-hood or Wolf’s-bane).—It should be
stated at once that these are poisonous, hence should
never be allowed in children’s gardens. A. Hemsleyanum
and A. Vilmorinii are climbing herbaceous plants with
blue flowers. A. lycoctonum and A. pyrenaicum are
yellow; A. Wilsonii five to six feet high, a recent
introduction from China, is a grand plant, flowers deep

RHE HARDY PLOWER BOOK 73

Fig. 27.—A BOLD GROUP OF DOUBLE-FLOWERED

FLOIE YAEOIGEES..

74 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

blue; A. Fischeri, A. autumnale, two-and-a-half feet,
violet blue. All of easy culture. Division in spring or
autumn. The varieties of A. Napellus are only worthy
a place in the wild garden.

Adonis (Ox-Eye).—A small yet important genus of
spring flowering plants having yellow saucer-shaped
flowers and elegant fern-like fohage. A. amurensis
pushes out its golden cups in February and is much
esteemed. Its double form, A. a. fl.-pl., with golden
outer petals and olive-green centre, is a great favourite.
Both reach a foot high or rather more. A. vernalis
glories in March and April sunshine, when it gives its
glistening yellow, three inch wide flowers. All prefer
deep, rich, light sandy loam and sun-warmed places.
Avoid root mutilation and winter division. Spring is
best. Raise seedlings in plenty.

Alstreemeria (Herb Lily).—The most valuable species,
as it is the most hardy, is A. aurantiaca, whose orange-
bronze, Lily-like flowers appeal to all. This plant is
better suited to a warm position away from the border
proper, where 1t may remain a dozen years without
disturbance. Plant six to eight inches deep, in autumn,
when dormant. Light, loamy, well-drained soil is best.
Give a good layer of manure three inches below the
tubers. June-July flowering. Increased readily by
division and seeds.

Althea (Hollyhock).—A. rosea (Fig. 27) is the common
Hollyhock. A noble plant affording giant spires of
flowers in July and August. The best results are ob-
tained by raising seedlings and good reliable strains in
all shades of colour are obtainable from the seedsmen
or specialists. Sow in early spring and transplant to
permanent position in autumn. For treatment of
disease see page 68.

Anehusa (A/kanet).—A chief value attaches to this
small genus by reason of the intense gentian blue of the
flowers of A. italica and its varieties, of which A. 1.
Dropmore (Fig. 28) is perhaps the noblest. A. 1. Opal
has “sky” or ‘‘ Cambridge blue”’ flowers. While not

THE HARDY FLOWER

ANCHUSA ITALICA.

G

Fig. 28—A BED OF THE DROPMORE VARIETY OF

76 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

fastidious, the plant grows well on most soils, including
chalk. Well-grown examples reach to six feet high or
more. Whilst quite a good perennial, the plant often
becomes exhausted by profuse flowering, and should,
therefore, be periodically increased from root-cuttings.
(See Propagation, page 67.) Seeds are freely produced,
but the seedlings vary, and the best types should be
raised by root-cuttings as suggested. A. myosotidiflora
has Forget-me-not like flowers and is a very beautiful
plant.

Anemone (Windflower).—A genus rich in beauty and
variety. A. blanda (the Grecian Windflower) stains
the earth with blue in February and March. A. Hepatica
(“Common Hepatica ’’) gives cushions of flowers in red,
white and blue in spring. Following these come the
‘“ Pasque Flower,” A. pulsatilla, in purple robe arrayed.
In May appears the “* Snowdrop Windflower,”’ A. sylves-
tris, rather less than two feet high, and anon A. alpina
and A. sulphurea, the greatest of the Alpine Windflowers,
and good border plants withal. Then, in turn, the
glorious array of cheap, easily grown Poppy Anemones,
prolific seed bearers and easily raised therefrom. Last,
though not least—as invaluable as they are indispensable
—come the distinguished Japanese sorts of autumn, of
which a dozen or more varieties are now grown. These
prefer ight, loamy soils, and grow apace if not too fre-
quently moved. Some good ones, apart from the reddish
flowered type, are A. japonica alba, white; Queen
Charlotte, pink ; Lord Ardilaun, white ; elegantissima,
rosy ; and Lady Ardilaun, purest white. These, when
established, are about four feet high. A. nemorosa
Robinsonii, A. n. Alleni, and A. fulgens are also valuable
among dwarf kinds flowering in spring.

Anthemis (Chamomule).—The best garden forms are
those belonging to A. tinctoria, E. G. Buxton and
IXelwayi for example, both of which have yellow Mar-
guerite-like flower heads. A much better plant, richer
in colour, is A. Triumfetti, which is not at present well
known, though eminently desirable. All are profuse

ANEMONE—ANTHERICUM W)

bloomers. Flowering period, June-September. Easily

increased by division. Height two feet to three feet.

mi
oo |

Fig. 29.— Cuttings of Double Avabis prepared for planting.

Anthericum (S¢. Bruno's Lily).—Lilaceous plants of
much beauty and charm. The indispensables for the

Fig. 30.—The Cuttings Planted in a Box.

border are A. liastrum and A. L. major, known to
science as Paradisea liliastrum. The plant is tuberous-

78 THE: HARDY BLOWER BOOK

rooted and revels in rich cool loam. The sweetly-
scented Lily-like flowers are arranged on spikes two-and-
a-half feet high, and are chastely pure and elegant.
Flowers in June. Increased by division, preferably
when dormant in early autumn, and by seeds, which are
abundantly produced.

Aquilegia (Columbine).—Whether in the ornamenta-
tion of the flower border or in the cut state these occupy

Fig. 31.—A Flowering Plant of Double Avabis raised
from a Cutting.

a unique place. No hardy flower is more graceful or
elegant ; few more easily managed or grown. Difficult
to increase by division, they come in their battalions
from seeds, and should be so increased. Spring sowings
should be made in warmth; autumn sowings in drills
in the open. Chrysantha is yellow, three feet to four feet.
The ccerulea hybrids in pink, rose, cream, yellow and scarlet
are two feet high, and are a lovely race. Glandulosa
and Stuartii are dwarfs, rich in colour and well suited
for colonising in the rock garden, Flower in summer.

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80 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Arabis (/ock Cyress).—The common white Arabis is
known to all. The plant mantles the earth with its leaf
tufts, which in spring are enshrouded with white
flowers. In the poorest of soil it rambles away apace ;
for old walls or ruins it is excellent. The double white,
A. albida fl.-pl. (Figs. 29, 30 and 31), is a modern intro-
duction, with double flowers on miniature stock-like
spikes. Flowers in spring. Propagated by cuttings.

Artemisia (Worvmwood).—The need for referring to
this rather large group of weedy or economic plants
arises by reason of the recent introduction, from Western
China, of A. lactiflora, a species having creamy white
inflorescences. To get the best results it should be
planted in front of Holly, Yew, or any such dark-leaved
subjects. Flowers July-August. Division. Any good
garden soil.

Aselepias (Butterfly Weed).—A. tuberosa is the only
species of note for the hardy plant gardener. The
stems are hairy, erect, two feet high; the bright orange
flowers in umbels disposed in a branched corymb.
Flowers July-August. Prefers sandy soil or peat and
loam. Increased by seeds.

Aster (Starwort or Michaelmas Daisy).—The old-
fashioned Michaelmas Daisy was a weed; its modern-
ised form a revelation of beauty with improvements
everywhere (Fig. 32). The plants are of the easiest
culture in good garden soil ; all are readily increased by
division, preferably in spring. Cuttings root readily
when young, and for such as the Italian Starwort (A.
amellus) constitute the best method of increase. Plant-
ing may be done in spring or autumn. The Italian
Starworts are of a uniform height of two feet, and in
violet and reddish blue shades are most effective. (See
Chapter IX. on grouping.) The Michaelmas Daisy
proper now covers a vast field, and any small selection
would of necessity omit not a few good ones. Those
named, however, are indispensable to any garden.
Beauty of Colwall, violet purple, the first double
Michaelmas Daisy. Climax, bright violet blue, a great

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 81

Fig. 38.—MICHAELMAS DAISY DESIRE, A BEAUTIFUL
SMALL-FLOWERED VARIETY.

82 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

acquisition. Chastity, white. Bianca, sprays of pure
white. Desire (Fig. 33) of the ericoides set, small
flowers, neat and elegant. Lil Fardell, silvery rose.
Lustre, rosy lilac. Mrs. S. T. Wright, large rosy purple,
excellent. Mrs. Frank Brazier, clear blue. St. Egwin,
soft rose. Cordifolius Ideal and C. Photograph. Aster
acris and A. subcceruleus, two feet and one foot respec-
tively, are also invaluable among dwarf-growing sorts.

Astilbe (Goat's Beard).—A genus greatly enriched
during recent years, both in colour and variety. One
and all are suited to the cool, moist places of the garden,
or to waterside areas, which they endow with much
natural charm. The original species chinensis, japon-
nica, rivularis, and Thunbergii, with the more modern
A. Davidiu, have, doubtless, contributed their quota to
the fine hybrid race we now have, of which Ceres, Peach
Blossom, Queen Alexandra, avalanche and rubella are
a few. Silver Sheaf, too, is excellent. Grandis, a giant
six feet high, is a noble plant with nearly pure white
plumes of blossoms. Flowers in July and August.
Increase by division when dormant.

Aubrietia (Rock-Cress or Alysson).—Carpeting plants
of great beauty, suited to old ruins, edgings, wall, or
rock gardening. As carpet plants to bulbs, other than
those of great vigour, they are too heavy and mat-like
in growth, and, moreover, root too deeply. These ever-
green herbaceous plants are of the easiest culture in
ordinary soil. When inclined to become straggling,
prune them back closely after flowering with shears, and
a few weeks later divide and replant. The older forms,
e.g., Bougainvillea, greeca, Hendersonii and others, all
varieties of the Purple Rock Cress, A. deltoidea, are
now superseded by such as Dr. Mules, Fire King,
Lavender, Leichtlini, Prichard’s A.I., and Mrs. Lloyd
Edwards, size of flower and brilliant new colouring being
added. Fresh young cuttings root readily when an inch
or so long; old wiry shoots that have flowered are
useless for propagation.

Bocconia (Plume Poppy).—Plants of distinguished
bearing, having roundly heart-shaped, deeply lobed

ASTILBE—CAMPANULA 83

leaves and giant plumes of brownish flowers. Best
suited to the wild garden, shrubbery, or beds in isola-
tion. The two species, B. cordata and B. microcarpa,
have much in common, and both are highly effective.
Height six feet or more. Flowers June-July. Increased
by division in spring.

Caltha (Marsh Marigold).—These are among the most
briliant of spring flowers for waterside or streamlet.
Luxuriating in the fat mud of ditch bottoms, they are
valuable for the artificial bog. Occasionally treated as
aquatic plants, they are seen to better advantage as
marginal subjects, where their tufts of glossy leaves and
golden flowers render them ideal in May. C. palustris
monstrosa, C. p. Tyermanni and C. polypetala, a fine
single-flowered species, are the best. Increased by
seeds and spring division.

Campanula (Bellflower).—A genus alike rich in
border kinds and those we associate with Alpines.
Regarded collectively the first-named set prefer deep,
well-enriched and cool soils or situations. The varieties
of the Peach-leaved Bellflower, C. persicifolia, are par-
ticularly prone to attacks by thrips when grown in dry
situations or hot, sandy soils. Its best varieties are
alba-plena, coronata, grandiflora, and Moerheimu,
all white-flowered. Newry Giant and Porcelain are
blue flowered singles of the same set. These rank from
two to three feet high. The Carpathian Bellflower
(C. carpatica) is rich in good things and in variety, the
plants ranging from nine inches to eighteen inches high.
All are of tufted habit and suited to the front row of the
borden Cac albay ©:7c) pallida, ©, -c: pelvatormis, C. c.
Riverslea, and C. c. White Star are the best varieties.
C. c. Robert Parker has much in common with the
latter, the plant being of somewhat bolder habit. The
Chimney Bellflower (C. pyramidalis) and its varieties
deserve a place in every garden. Though frequently
seen in greenhouse and conservatory, and usually re-
garded as biennials, the plants are true perennials, and
are most imposing—indeed, unique—when freely grouped
in beds or near to shrubbery borders. The plants reach

84 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

to six feet high, and the flowers are blue or white in bold
columnar spikes. C. latifolia Burghalti, and C. 1. Van
Houttei are hybrids about three feet high, with long blue
pendent bells. C. Hendersoni, C. Fergusoni, and C.
Hillside Gem are also of garden origin and of flower
value in August and September. These are blue-
flowered and from one-and-a-half feet to two feet high. C.
lactiflora grows into a handsome bush of four feet high,
and is smothered with pale blue flowers in late summer.
Its variety, C. 1. celtidifoha, is also a handsome plant.
C. glomerata dahurica, one-and-a-half feet, has terminal
heads of Royal purple flowers. C. (Platycodon) grandi-
flora is the so-called “‘ Balloon flower.’”’ A most valu-
able late summer flower. C. grandis is a very old plant,
shy-flowering in some soils, though very effective when
in good flower. It is two-and-a-half feet high, and
flowers in July. Dwarfer sorts, suitable for edgings or
informal borderings, should include pulla, pulloides, G.
I. Wilson, muralis and pusilla in variety. These are
but a fractional part of a great genus. All are increased
readily by division in autumn and spring, by cuttings
of the young shoots in spring and by seeds. (See
general article on seed sowing, etc., p. 61.)
Catananche (Blue Cupidone).—Wedded to the sim-
plest cultural requirements there is all the charm of the
“ Everlastings ”’ about these plants, the flowers of which
may be dried for winter use. Everybody should grow
the type, C. cerulea, and its variety bicolor. Height
two feet. Easily raised from seeds in the open garden.
Good for cutting ; distinct and attractive. (June-July.)
Centaurea (Cornflower or Knapweed)—The annual
Cornflower, C. Cyanea, is universally known and ad-
mired. The varieties are easily raised from seeds. The
best perennial kinds are C. Babylonica, silvery foliage
and yellow flower-heads, four to five feet high. C.
glastifolia, also yellow, with silvery leaves. C. macro-
cephala, with almost thistle-like heads of golden yellow,
three to four feet high, is a little too coarse for the or-
dinary border. C. montana rubra is the best of the
mountain Knapweeds. The plant is two feet high, the

CATANANCHE—CHRYSANTHEMUM _ 85

flower-heads rosy red. Excellent for cutting. C. deal-
bata, with silvery foliage and rosy flower-heads ; and
C. ruthenica, four feet, primrose yellow flowers and
handsome foliage, are also desirable. Division in spring
or autumn, and by seeds. Common garden soil.

Centranthus (Valerian).—The ‘‘ Red Valerian” (C.
ruber) is the only species of merit, and this is valuable
for its colour alone. The white variety is less attrac-
tive. The plant thrives in chinks of walls, on old ruins,
revels on chalk or limestone, and in the poorest of soils.
Hardy, vigorous, showy and free. Height two feet.
Seeds.

Chelone (Yurtle Head).—North American plants allied
to Pentstemon. C. Lyoni and C. obliqua are the most
worthy, and have pink and rose flowers respectively on
stems nearly three feet high. There is a white variety
of the latter. Division in early spring. The brilliant
scarlet-flowered Pentstemon barbatus is frequently
catalogued as Chelone barbata.

Chrysanthemum (Ox-eye Daisy or Shasta Daisy).—The
good varieties of these, which are now so plentiful in
gardens, have probably been evolved from such species
as C. lacustre, C. leucanthemum, and C. maximum.
Their perfect hardiness is equalled by simple cul-
tural requirements, freedom of growth and flowering.
The varieties range from two feet to four feet in height.
Their great vigour and spread of root-stock demands, if
the best floral results are desired, biennial division. This
is best done in early autumn or in spring. A broad belt
in front of Holly or Yew hedge has a singularly good
effect. All have white Marguerite-like flower-heads.
There are two types in general cultivation, viz.: those
having narrow florets (petals), and those with broad
ones. Davisi and Robinsoni are good examples of the
first; King Edward VII., Mrs. Charles Lothian Bell—
the largest of all—Progress, Triumph, Rev. H. Sanders,
and The Speaker being typical of the latter. C. (Pyre-
thrum) uliginosum is six feet high or more, and coming
at Harvest Festival time is of much value.

86 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Cichorium (Chicory).—This native wildling (C. Intybus)
is included because of the rare beauty of its rich corn-
flower blue flowers. The plant, while not desirable,
perhaps, in the choice border, is valuable in the wild
places of the garden, and will take care of itself in the
stoniest of soils. Propagated easily by seeds sown in
the open garden in April or May.

Cimicifuga (Bugbane or Snake-root).—Tall, vigorous
growing perennial herbaceous plants whose feathery
plumes or panicles of white flowers are very pretty in
the late summer garden. In the near distance the plants
are effective, hence are good in the shrubbery or skirting
woodland places. The best border sorts are C. simplex
and C. racemosa. Cool or moist soils are best for the
last. C. americana and C. cordifolia are other good
sorts. In some the flowers have an unpleasant odour.

Convallaria majalis (Lily of the Valley).—Perhaps the
sweetest and most popular flower on earth, albeit we
are content to purchase it rather than to grow it for its
worth. Or, if grown, it is in dense, almost impenetrable
masses, and flowers are few. Plantations should be
divided freely and replanted every four or five years.
Starting with strong flowering single crowns, and
arranging them six to eight inches apart each way, the bed
may stand for ten years 1f annually mulched with manure
and liberally treated with liquid manure. Loves cool
places, shade, and the richest of soils. Prepare the bed
deeply. October is the best planting time. The best
varieties are Fortin and Victoria.

Coreopsis (J2ckseed).—Showy North American herbs,
annual or perennial, the former usually known as Calliop-
sis. The best perennial kinds are C._ grandiflora,
C. lanceolata, albeit after a good flowering they become
exhausted and fresh seedlings should take their places.
Height two feet or so ; flower-heads golden or rich yellow
on slender wiry stems. Valuable for cutting. Raise
from seeds annually or biennially.

Coronilla.—The majority of this genus are of shrubby
habit. Two at least are herbaceous, and invaluable as

CICHORIUM—C YPRIPEDIUM 87

trailing subjects, in the rock garden more particularly.
C. iberica (Cappadocica) has clusters of golden-yellow
pea-shaped flowers, and is most effective. C. varia has
rose-coloured flowers. Spring division and seeds.

Cortaderia (Pampas Grass).—Too well known to need
description; too meritorious to be omitted. C.
(Gynerium) argenteum and its varieties are best. In-
valuable in bold groups and in isolation, particularly on
the lawn. They succeed best in light, well-drained yet
rich soils. In cold districts the specimens should be
tied up into a cone shape and protected with pea-sticks
and bracken during winter. Raised from seeds or
increased by division, preferably in spring.

Crinum (Cape Lily)—These South African bulbous
plants should be given a sheltered place apart from the
herbaceous borders, such as the foot of a warm south
wall where a three feet deep bed of soil, rich and well
drained, should be prepared. In favoured places near
the coast they are quite hardy ; elsewhere, winter pro-
tection should be given. In planting keep the bulbs
six inches below the surface. The best are C. capense
(longifolium), C. Powelli, C. P. album, and C. yemense.
Increased by offsets and seeds. Dislike frequent
disturbance.

Cyelamen (Sow Bread).—lf not suited to the border
proper, the hardy Cyclamen possess a value of their own
on the fringes of woodland places or in company with
the larger growing Ferns. They appear to delight in the
shelter and companionship of other plants, and revel in
the decaying vegetable matter around. C. Coum, in
variety, C. repandum (hederzfolium), and C. europeum
are among the most beautiful. Plant inautumn. Propa-
gated by seeds.

Cypripedium (Lady’s Slipper).—tThe finest of this race
of hardy Slipper is the Moccasin Flower (Fig. 34), a
wildling of the North American bogs and swamps. Its
flowers are rose and white, and appear June—July.
C. Calceolus (English Lady’s Slipper) and C. pubescens
have brown sepals and yellow lin, C. acaule (stemless

88 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Fig. 34.—THE MOCCASIN FLOWER (CYPRIPEDIUM
SPECTABILE).

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90 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Lady’s Slipper) has large, rosy-purple flowers. All are
spring flowering. The first-named requires spongy peat,
leaf mould and moisture, and is not averse to manure.
The others do well in peat and loam in drier places.
C. Calceolus is usually found growing in calcareous soils,
but it does as well in ordinary peat and loam, Always
plant in autumn.

Delphiniums or Larkspurs.—See Part I., pages
46 to 48.

Dicentra or Dielytra (bleeding Heart or Lyre Flower).
—The most beautiful species is D. spectabilis, which is
susceptible to spring frosts. The established plant
reaches three feet high, its arching racemes of pendent
rose-coloured flowers being highly ornamental. It is
largely grown in pots for the conservatory. D. eximia
and I. formosa, one-and-a-half feet high, are much
hardier, both have rosy flowers and fern-like leaves.
Garden soil. Division in spring.

Dictamnus (Fvaxinella or Burning Bush).—Old-
fashioned herbaceous perennials of great vigour and
freedom of flowering, the established bushes reaching
three feet high and as much through. The plants are
slow growing, thriving best in deep, strong loam.
Flowers red or white. D. albus is the type, and D. a.
himalaicus and D. a. purpureus are good forms. D.
caucasicus, a fine plant, has affinity with the above.
Sun or shade; plant in spring or autumn. Division
and seed.

Dodecatheon (American Cowslip or Shooting Stars).—
As unlike our English Cowslip as may be, these pretty
North American plants more resemble Cyclamen
clustered and pendent, on foot high stalks. They are
rose-coloured, pink or white. Love cool and shady
places, in peat and loam. There are several varieties,
but those usually seen belong chiefly to D. Meadia. D.
Jeffreyi is the strongest growing. Raised from seed,
an interesting variety is secured. They are rather
impatient of disturbance.

DELPHINIUMS—EREMURUS on

Doronicum (Leopard’s Bane).—Showy herbaceous
plants of the easiest culture in common garden soils.
The best and tallest variety is D. plantagineum excelsum,
which attains a height of three feet or more. D. austria-
cum and D. caucasicum are about two feet high. All
are yellow flowered and give sheaves of flowers in spring.
Increase by division after flowering.

Echinacea (Purple Coneflower).—The only species to
be noted is E. purpurea, a rather stately herbaceous
plant, three to four feet high. The florets are coloured
reddish, and there are improved forms in nurseries.
Easily grown in well-cultivated garden soils. Seeds and
division in early spring.

Echinops (Globe Thistle).—The Globe Thistles are both
picturesque and ornamental, hence are suited for wood-
land or shrubbery, and, occasionally, in beds in isolation.
Height four to six feet, flowering in late summer. By
reason of their distinctive beauty each kind should be
grouped alone. E. bannaticus, grey-blue ; E. giganteus,
silvery foliage, and globular steel-blue flower-heads ;
FE. Ritro, very handsome blue ; and E. spzrocephalus,
silvery of leaf and whitish flower-heads, are the best.
Division in spring, root cuttings, seeds.

Epimedium (Barrenwort).—Pretty | spring-flowering
plants having Barberry-like leaves and yellow, white or
red flowers. Associate well with the Fern-tribe and
delight in shady places. E. coccineum has scarlet
flowers and bronze-tinted leaves. E. pinnatum has
nearly persistent foliage and yellow flowers. It is,
perhaps, the best. Light, sandy or peaty soil. Division
in spring.

Eremurus (Grant Asphodel).—Noble herbaceous plants
with columnar spires of flowers six feet to twelve feet
high (Fig. 35). They inhabit Northern India, Persia,
and Central Asia, and embrace white, flesh-coloured and
yellow flowers. The many hybrid sorts, too, are very
beautiful. Flower in June and July. They are most
effective in groups near to woodland and shrubbery.
Require deep and rich soils. Plant in October or

92 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

November. By reason of their lateral root spread they
are not well suited to the ordinary border. Some of the
best are E. robustus, E. r. Elewesianus, pink ; E. hima-
laicus, white; E. Bungei, yellow; E. Shelford, bronzy-
yellow and buff; and E. Warei, salmon and bronze.
Seeds : Sow soon after ripening.

Erigeron (/leabane).—Excellent herbaceous plants of
the easiest culture in good garden soil and for the most
part free flowering. For border decoration, E. speciosus
superbus and E. Quakeress are the best, and the twain
are very profuse bloomers. The predominant colour is
lavender blue in Michaelmas Daisy-like flower-heads.
Height two feet. E. aurantiacus is less than one foot
high ; colour orange. The former are easily increased
by division, the latter by seeds.

Eryngium (Sea Holly).—The culture and method of
increase given for Echinops suit these exactly. The
most ornamental of a beautiful race are E. giganteum
(Ivory Thistle), and E. oliverianum, whose amethyst-
blue stems and flower-heads attract everybody. This
handsome subject attains three to four feet high. E.
pandanifolium is a giant of eight feet high when in
flower, and is best suited to the wild garden.

Fritillaria (Crown Imperial) —From out of an exten-
sive genus we select F, imperialis, stately bulbous-rooted
herbaceous perennials of three to four feet high, afford-
ing clustered heads of pendent yellow or rich brown
flowers; and the Snake’s Head Fritillaries (F. melea-
eris), which, in their chequered flowers of white or
purple, are valuable in grassland or border. Both are
of easy culture. Height one-and-a-half feet. Seeds.

Funkia (Plantain Lily).—The glory of the “ Plantain
Lilies ’’ is vested in Fortunei, Sieboldii and Sub-cordata
syn. grandiflora, the established examples of which may
reach a yard across and the same in height when in
flower. They make handsome tub plants for terrace
gardening. The blue or glaucous foliage of the first two
named is very striking; the last named is valuable in

ERIGERON—GENTIANA 93

pots for conservatory. Its white flowers are sweet
scented. Flower: August to October. Deep rich soil.
Divide and replant in autumn.

Gaillardia (blanket Flower)—TYhe popular name is
neither suggestive nor good. There has been much im-
provement in these showy herbs during recent years,
the perennial sorts having their origin in G. aristata.
Splendid strains are obtainable from seeds, which should
be sown early in the year, and planted out in May for
flowering a year later. The florets are coloured yellow
and crimson. Some are almost wholly crimson. Lady
Rolleston is self yellow, disc and all. Named sorts are
numerous. The plants are of the easiest culture, and
grow about three feet high.

Galega (Goat's Rue).—Hardy, vigorous, free and pro-
fuse-flowering herbaceous plants, luxuriating in quite
poor soil. G. officinalis, lilac; G. 0. alba, white; G.
Hartlandi, a bicolored form; G. His Majesty, clear
mauve, and the finest of all, are good. Flower: July-
September. Height four to five feet. Spring division
is best, and not too rich a soil.

Galtonia or Hyacinthus ecandicans (Cafe Hyacinth).—
A stately bulbous-rooted plant from South Africa.
Flowers white, bell-like, pendent, abundantly produced
on stems four to six feet high. Flowering period, July-
August, but this with successional planting may be much
extended. Fine for beds or border. Well-drained loam.
Seeds.

Gentiana (Gentianella)—The garden Gentianella (G.
acaulis) is beloved by all, but not all can grow it. Its
stoloniferous shoots ramify best in light, sandy, peaty or
vegetable soils, and in such the plant usually grows and
flowers freely. Conversely it would appear to abhor
close, ill-drained, tenacious clay soils. G. asclepiadea,
the Willow Gentian, is a delightful plant for the wood-
land, where it does splendidly in stony, sandy, or heath-
like soil. May I plead that nobody will ever rob this
plant of its grace and charm by tying it to sticks.
Plant in autumn. Seeds. Division.

94 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Geranium (Crvane’s-bill).—The following belong to
Geranium proper. G. armenum, purplish crimson; G,.
grandiflorum, deep violet flowers; and G. ibericum,
rich purplish blue, are the best border kinds. Height
two-and-a-half feet. G. Endressi, rose, one-and-a-half
feet, is very pretty. Any position, and good garden
soul. Division in spring or autumn. Seeds.

Gerbera (barberton or Transvaal Daisy).—This bril-
liant flowering South African plant is only reliably
hardy in this country near the sea or in favoured posi-
tions at the base of a greenhouse wall, with winter
protection. It may be grown with ease in the green-
house, though its flower-heads lack the intense orange
scarlet of those grown in the open. The plant revels in
heat, and in a Cucumber house grows apace. Prefers
peat and loam or sandy loam. Easily grown from seeds,
which must be sown as soon as ripe. The species
referred to is G. Jamesoni. There are many hybrids:
yellow, rose, pink and other shades. The flowers are
now being grown for market, and sell well.

Geum (Avens).—These are useful and showy, as well
as profuse flowering. All grow freely in well-cultivated
soils. The best garden plants are the varieties of G.
Chiloense, usually catalogued as G. coccineum. Of
these, the double scarlet-flowered Mrs. J. Bradshaw and
miniatum are best. G. Heldreichi, orange; G. H.
superbum, reddish orange; and the varieties of G.
montanum are also excellent. The last has golden
yellow flowers, and is one foot high. The others are
one-and-a-half feet to two-and-a-half feet. Division in
spring.

Gynerium argenteum (Pampas Grass).—See Corta-
deria.

Gypsophila (Gauze Flower).—G. paniculata, and its
double form G. p. fl.-pl., are both in demand by the
florist decorator, and are valuable in the cut state. They
are more useful than attractive. Height two-and-a-half
feet. The type species is easily raised from seeds, the
double one should be increased by careful division, by

GERANIUM—HELIOPSIS 95

heel cuttings in early spring, and by _ root
cuttings.—(See Chapter X.)

Helenium (Sneeze-weed)—A genus of useful free-
flowering perennials, the most important being the
varieties of H. autumnale. The specific name is some-
what misleading, as not a few are in full beauty before
the season indicated. All are of the easiest culture in
good garden soils. In height they range from six feet
in the case of the type to one-and-a-half feet in H. a.
pumilum: grandicephalum striatum (syn. autumnale
striatum), Riverslea Beauty and Riverton Gem are
the best of the tall growers ; pumilum and its variety
magnificum being the best of the dwarf varieties. There
are reddish flowered sorts, of which Cupreum, two feet,
is the best. H. Bolanderi two-and-a-half feet, orange-
yellow, with dark disc, is quite the earliest of its race to
flower. Increased to any extent by division in spring
or autumn, and by root cuttings and seeds.

Helianthus (Swnflower).—The perennial Sunflowers
are of two types, those with compact stay-at-home root
stocks and those with travelling or stoloniferous root
systems. The latter are variations of the “ Prairie
Sunflower”’ (H. rigidus), and repay for annual trans-
planting in earliest springtime. Varieties of H. multi-
florus may remain two years or longer. Its best varieties
are *Bouquet d’or, Maximus, and *Soleil d’or together
with the type. The best of the H. mgidus group are
Miss Mellish and Wolley Dod. H. sparsifolius is a giant
in the same way. H. Mollis and H. tomentosus have
woolly leaves. H. orgyalis is the willow-leaved Sun-
flower whose miniature flower heads occur in a rather
dense panicle. This makes a fine specimen in isolation.
It is October flowering. All are good autumn plants,
single flowered except those marked thus *, and yellow.
Height four to six feet. Increase by division in spring
or autumn, and by cuttings.

Heliopsis (Orange Sunflower).—Deeper in colour, with
smaller flower-heads and a more refined habit than the

96 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Sunflowers. Amenable to the same treatment. Height
four feet. July-August.

Helleborus (Christmas Rose).—The most precious of
hardy herbaceous winter flowers (Fig. 36), and as such
merits the attention of all. Essential cultural details
are deep sandy loam—three feet of it where possible—
perfect drainage, ight shade, and, greatest essential of all,
September or October transplanting. It is fatal to
success to plant these in big lumps intact ; they must
be freely broken up. It is equally bad to lift and pot—
and so-call “‘ force’ for winter work and then tumble
them back into their old quarters. The leafless plants
which follow thistreatment are its greatest condemnation.
Need one say more? The following are varieties of the
Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger), and all are desirable ;
Altifolius (maximus), very large, November; Major,
or Bath variety, and Scoticus, December ; Angustifolius
and Mdme. Fourcade, January. Riverstoni and St.
Brigid are also good. The flowers are white, flushed
externally with rose. The Lenten Roses (H. orientalis)
and others are of a different class, and submit to trans-
planting in spring or autumn. They delight in the thin
shade of hazel and other twiggy trees, and the shelter
thus afforded assists in retaining their foliage, which is
a great gain. Strong loam, or loam over chalk, suits
them well. They are from one foot to one-and-a-half
feet high ; flowers white, rose or purplish and copiously
spotted. Interesting and beautiful in woodland and
shrubbery places.

Hemerocallis (Day Lily).—Strong, vigorous growing
herbaceous perennials, beautiful, in large degree refined,
and all free flowering. The dwarfer kinds as flava,
Apricot, Dumortieri (rutilans), Middendorfiana and
Thunbergi are from two feet to three feet high, and
give a succession of yellow trumpet-shaped flowers from
May to August. The bolder sorts, such as fulva and
its varieties Kwanso and K. fl.-pl., with disticha, are
four feet high and well suited to woodland or shrubbery.
Aurantiaca major, Aureole, Citrina, Dr. Regel, luteola,

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and Sir Michael represent the modern side of this
valuable race, and are very handsome. All have arching
leaves in tufts, and are hardy in the extreme. Increase
by division in autumn or spring. Good border soil suits
them well.

Hepatica.— (See Anemone Hepatica).

Hesperis (/tocket).—The typical species (H. matronalis)
is worthy of a place in the wild garden only, where its
fragrance would be esteemed. The double white and
double lilac, H. m. fl.-pl. and H. m. lilacina plena respec-
tively, are among the oldest of border perennials.
They are two-and-a-half feet or more high. Prefer a
strong holding loam and a cool situation generally.
The plants have giant Stock-like pyramids of flowers in
June and July. May be increased by division, though
more freely from cuttings in late summer. The plants
require careful attention or they exhaust themselves
by flowering.

Heuchera (Alum Roo.).—The coming of the brilliant
scarlet H. sanguinea from New Mexico, nearly 30 years
ago, was a great gain, and, in conjunction with the other
species, it has given a race of plants valuable alike for
grace and ornament. The plants range from two feet
to nearly three feet high at flowering time, and are at
home in any good, light, loamy soil. The varieties
splendens and Walker’s variety are improvements on
the type, while the modern race of hybrids micrantha,
sanguinea and others are invaluable. The plants
form a cushioned tuft of leaves, above which the elegant
flower sprays issue. Seeds. Division in spring. Flowers
July-August.

Hollyhock.—See Althea (rosea).

Iberis (Candytuft)—The perennial Candytufts are
virtually under-shrubs, but of much service in the border
or rock garden. The forms of I. sempervirens are good
trailing plants, while I. correeefolia, a valuable hybrid of
garden origin, is best as a marginal plant. I. gibraltarica
is a large-flowered kind, not reliably hardy. It is,
however, easily raised from seeds. I. superba, a selected

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 99

ikon Fore,

Fig. 37.—A BEAUTIFUL BORDER OF GERMAN OR
IEILING, Ig SBS.

100 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

form of the first named, has very large heads of flowers.
Of quite easy culture. Increased by young cuttings in
August. Flowers in spring. (See Fig. 26, page 67.)

Inearvillea (Perennial Trumpet Flower).—I. Delavayiis
a modern introduction from China, and a plant of dis-
tinction and merit. From a ground tuft of arching,
shining, pinnate leaves two to three feet long, the flower
scapes rise three to four feet high. The flowers are
trumpet-shaped or Bignonia-like and coloured rosy red.
The plant dies completely down, hence its position should
be marked. The fleshy roots are very brittle. Perfectly
hardy and easily raised from seeds. I. grandiflora is a
superb dwarf kind, of a foot high, with rosy-crimson
flowers; a grand plant in the choice border or rock
garden. Sandy loam. Flowers June-July.

Inula (Fleabane).—The Georgian Fleabane, I. glandu-
losa, may be likened to a golden yellow, single-flowered
Chrysanthemum, four inches across. The leaves are
densely woolly. Height two feet. June-July. It is
from the Caucasus. I. grandiflora and I, Royleana are
Himalayan, and yellow flowered. Garden soil. Division
in spring. Root cuttings, seeds.

Iris (Flag or Fleur de Luce).—The genus Iris is unique
among hardy herbaceous plants, unique in the delicate
colours of its flowers, endless in its extent and variability,
unapproachable in a season of flowering, which takes at
least six months to exhaust. Hence, one might garden
with Irises alone and still find in this remarkable family
an inexhaustible store of pleasure and change. Quite
recently a sumptuous monograph has appeared, of which
Mr. Rickaton Dykes is the author, and only in some such
way is it possible to treat of so vast a subject. To con-
sider even in brief detail the most worthy of the genus
would necessitate more room than is being devoted to
this entire volume, hence we refrain from the impossible.
For present purposes, therefore, it must suffice if we
treat of the three main indispensable groups, viz.: the
bulbous or “‘ Xiphions,”’ the “‘ Flags’”’ and their allies, and
the great Clematis-flowered Irises (I. laevigata) of Japan.

INCARVILLEA—IRIS LHVIGATA 101

Irises, the Bulbous.—Popularly known as “ Spanish ”’
and “* English,” Iris Xiphium, and I. Xiphioides respec-
tively, of the botanist, are June-July flowering, and
grow two feet or so high. They are in blue, white,
bronze, violet, porcelain, yellow and other shades, are
much valued for cutting because of their artistic bearing,
and are highly ornamental in beds. To beauty and
utility must be added the great attribute of cheapness ;
hence, they should be grown by all. They prefer light,
sandy, well-drained soils, and should be planted in
October and November, setting the roots four inches
deep intheearth. The bulbs of the ““Spanish”’ varieties
are so small that four inches or five inches asunder
will afford them ample space at flowering time; the
“English” should have almost twice the room.

Flag Irises.—These comprise the so-called ‘‘“German ”’
Irises (Fig. 37), which have been derived from such
species as pallida, neglecta, squalens, amcena, variegata
and others, and collectively they are perfectly hardy,
free-flowering and amenable to ordinary garden soils
that have been well cultivated and enriched. The best
planting season is March-April, though they are planted
at other times, yet not without loss. It is a mistake to
plant big clumps of these, single crowns or rhizomes
(Figs. 38 and 39) are infinitely the best. A dozen such
would make a group four feet across, and everyone
would flower when established and remain good for three
or more years. The pallida varieties are among the
finest of them all, and such as dalmatica, Her Majesty,
and Ed. Michel are particularly fine. Queen of May,
Gracchus, Darius, Chelles, Mdme. Chereau, Mrs. C.
Darwin, Thorbecke, Dr. Bernice, Kharput, Oriflame,
and Ma Mie are a distinct and good set.

I. levigata or I. Keempferi.—These are the “‘ Japanese
flags,’ and are characterised by large petalled flowers
ranging from six to twelve inches across. Great num-
bers are sent each year from Japan, though chiefly from
Tokyo, Hondo, and the gardens adjacent to the river
Sumida. They are moisture-loving, though doing well
in deeply-tilled, richly-manured soils. Light to medium

102 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

loam is best with abundance of leaf soil and cow manure.
Adhesive clay soils are abhorrent to them. Reputedly
water-loving they are immeasurably superior in growth
and finer in flower when the plants are a foot or more
above water level and the roots in rich vegetable soil.

Fig. 38.—Portion of an Old Plant of German Tris.

The plants have a most voracious appetite, which should
be duly catered for. The plants resent frequent dis-
turbance. The best planting season is April. These are
the most sumptuous of all the Irises, and come as a great
and fitting finalin July. Varieties are numerous ; the
self-colours are the most effective. Division: seeds.

IRIS LHEVIGATA—KNIPHOFIAS 103

Kniphofias, or Tritomas (Red Hot Pokers).—These,
also known as Torch Lily and Flame Flower, are among
the noblest of perennials and unequalled for their high
ornamental value. They appear indifferent to heavy or
light soils, though a well-drained one is almost essential.
The great errors made in their cultivation are cutting
them down in autumn or early winter and dividing and
transplanting them at the same periods. Should much

Fig. 39.—Single Crowns of German Iris veady for Planting.

frost ensue the plants will most likely perish. Fine
clumps of them merit tying up after the manner sug-
gested for the Cortaderia (Pampas Grass), which see on
p. 87. Early spring is the best time to divide and re-
plant. The plants vary from four feet to eight feet
high. The varieties of K. aloides are still among the
best, glaucescens, grandiflora, and grandis being hand-
some and distinct. These are giants in their way, and
to them John Benary should be added. All have

104 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

brilliant .orange scarlet spikes of flowers. Nelsoni and
Macowanii are beautiful miniatures and less hardy, while
Goldelse and Solfaterre are in the same way.

Lathyrus (Perennial Pea).—The varieties of L. lati-
folus are the most important. Two, albus and The
Pearl, are white flowered, and the last-named is a superb
sort. The plants are deep rooting, and will descend to
three feet or so, hence the soil should be well prepared.
Splendens has rosy red flowers. These have an ascend-
ing or climbing habit, and may attain six feet or eight
feet hik eh. They are very profuse flowering. L. grandi-
florus and L. rotundifolius are other species of merit.
The flowers are rose coloured and appear in June and
July. These may be increased by division. The vari-
eties of L. latifolius are increased by seeds and by
cuttings secured with a “heel”? (see Chapter X.,
page 66) in early spring.

Liatris (Snake-root).—A small genus of North Ameri-
can perennial herbs, with rosy purple flower-heads
arranged in long dense columnar spikes. L. graminifolia
dubia is the finest variety, and is six feet high. L.
elegans (Blazing Star), L. pycnostachya (Kansas Gay
Feather), and L. spicata are dwarfer. Increased by care-
ful division in spring and by seeds.

Lilium (Li/y).—The genus Lilium is at once the most
diverse in form and variety, the most sumptuous,
fascinating ; anon, fastidious and tantalising to the
cultivator, of any of the many races of hardy bulbous
flowers. It could hardly be otherwise, seeing the wide
geographical distribution of the genus. Lily species
and varieties come to us from many lands, though they
are essentially northern-world plants; China, Japan,
Europe; Canada, the forests and mountains of C alifornia,
Siberia, and the mighty Himalayas each contributing
its quota among others. Hence, not a little of their
diversity of form and character, and possibly also a little
of their fickleness. Herein 1s work for the earnest
student of the flower who, with fuller knowledge, might
presently divine their needs and learn much of

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 105

Fig. 40—A GROUP OF MADONNA.LILIES WITH A
BACKGROUND OF DARK GREEN FOLIAGE.

106 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

their vagaries and caprices when under cultivation in
the British Isles. In Nature, doubtless, the plants are
more or less freely reproduced from seeds—we have
proof of this in the marked variability of certain species.
Let us take the lesson to heart, and do likewise where we
can. In Nature, too, some inhabit dry woods, others
veritable swamps, others rocks and hills, and others the
richer soils of the valleys, hence the impossibility of
succeeding with all in any one British garden. For
those best suited to our circumstances, however, a few
general hints may be given that may prove helpful.

Lilies, Cultural Hints on.—Generally ‘the stem rooting
kinds and their varieties, ¢e.g., auratum, speciosum,
croceum, Davuricum, Henryi, japonicum, umbellatum,
and longiflorum delight 1 in richly manured soils. Some,
like speciosum, revel in manure above and below the
bulbs. Such as these should be planted six inches or
more deep. These, too, provided that basal root action
follows the planting, are more quickly established.
The non-stem rooting kinds, such as chalcedonicum,
Martagons, candidum, and others, require more time
to establish, and being dependent upon one root action
alone, 7.e., basal, do not flower in the year of planting
unless the yells are of the largest size. Another set,
pardalinum, canadense, superbum (Swamp Lily), and
others revel in rich vegetable soils, peat, leaf-mould, and
moisture. Nota few others, such as Kramer, rubellum,
Hansoni and Marhan, prefer the shelter and root com-
panionship of shrubs, which, while insuring comparative
root-dryness at all seasons, also safeguard the young
stem growth from frosts in spring. Stately growers like
candidum and its variety, c. speciosum, with testaceum
and such sturdy members of the race as croceum,
umbellatum, tigrinum and Martagon, grow quite well
in the open border. Regarded generally, the Lily
prefers light, well-drained soils, the moisture-loving and
Swamp Lilies excepted. Martagon album and chalce-
donicum are among those which ‘do not object to heavy,
loamy soils, though they certainly object to frequent
disturbance. Plant in early autumn where possible.

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 107

ig 41 CE UMP OF LILY BULBS READY FOR TRANSPLA NDING.

Fig. 42—HOW TO ARRANGE LILY

BULBS FOR PLANTING.

108 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Sound imported bulbs of auratum may be planted in
February and March. The Madonna L ily, L. candidum,
should be planted in August, preferably where it can
have a dark background of evergreens (Fig. 40). The
varieties of longiflorum are not a permanent success in
the open garden unless in favoured places. They are
valuable for pots and require generous treatment.
Lilies are increased by means of seeds, sow as soon as
ripe ; by scales, the fleshy parts of the bulbs sown in sand
and cocoanut fibre; by bulblets in some instances, and
by division (Figs 41 and 42).

Lilies, The Best Garden kindsare those of thearchelirion,
isolirion, and Martagon or Turk’s Cap groups. The
first-named includes auratum, speciosum, tigrinum and
Henryi. Of the auratums platyphyllum is “the finest ;
it is vigorous, handsome and tall, a veritable peer among
itsfellows. It is five to six feet high. Loam and peat, or
rich sandy loam. July-August flowering. The speciosums
flower in September, and are four to five feet high.
Album Kraetzeri and album Novum are white ; cruen-
tum, macranthum, melpomene, and magnificum are rich
coloured and highly ornamental. Richly cultivated
soils. Henryi is a distinct and handsome orange-
coloured species, six feet high. Same treatment as the
last. The Tiger Lilies are accommodating border sorts,
and, moreover, may be increased freely by means of
the bulblets on the stems.

The isolirion group have the flowers erect as in the
common orange garden Lily, L. croceum. Dauricum,
umbellatum and elegans all belong to this set, and range
from one-and-a-half feet to three feet high. Some of
the elegans set are very dwarf and are best grown in
pans in the greenhouse. The varieties are rather
numerous. Those of the three first-named are sturdy
and vigorous and increase freely.

The Martagons or Turk’s Cap Lilies are valuable and
highly ornamental. Chalcedonicum, pomponum and
p. verum are brilliant scarlet, two-and-a-half feet
high. July-August. Hansoni and Humboldti are rich

LILIES—LOBELIA 109

yellow, spotted with black, four to five feet. July.
Monadelphum var Szovitzianum (colchicum) is a grand
yellow-flowered Lily and one of the earliest to bloom.
It is of great vigour and freedom of flowering. Height
three to five feet. _Martagon is purplish though variable.
M. album is white. M. dalmaticum is purplish-black.
All are graceful and free. July. Height three to five
feet. Pyrenaicum is yellow, two-and-a-half feet, and
all are copiously spotted. Canadense, Burbanki, parda-
linum and superbum are delightful members of this set
and good garden Lilies to boot. They love rich veget-
able soils, peat, and moisture, and are attractive in cool
woodland shade.

L. giganteum is a noble kind from the Himalayas,
rising to ten feet or more when in flower. The great
pendent flowers are white stained with crimson. This
species is only satisfactory when raised from seeds.
Seedlings take six to eight years to flower. The seed-
lings should be planted in their permanent positions at
three years old. Offsets are given off after flowering,
and these should be grown on again.

L. candidum, or the Madonna Lily (Fig. 44), requires
a warm, sunny position in rather poor soil. Its dark
stemmed form, L. c. speciosum, is a grand plant, six feet
or more high. Both are indispensable to the garden,
and both are prone to the Lily disease, as is also L. tes-
taceum (excelsum), the Nankeen Lily (Fig. 43). These
should be sprayed fortnightly with sulphide of potas-
sium, one ounce to two gallons of water, from early
June till flowering begins.

Lily of the Valley.—See Convallaria.

Linum (Flax) —These are chiefly of graceful habit.
Austriacum, narbonense and perenne have sky-blue
flowers, and are one-and-a-half feet high. Campanula-
tum and flavum are yellow, dwarfer and more bushy. All
succeed in loamy soils and are easily raised from seeds.

Lobelia (Cardinal Flower)—The herbaceous Lobelias
are of great utility and beauty, and flower in late
summer and autumn. The varieties of cardinalis are

FLOWER BOOK

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112 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

characterised by green foliage; those of fulgens by
leaves of a bronzy crimson colour. Both have flowers
of exceeding brilliancy, scarlet, vermilion, crimson-
scarlet and the like. We have no other hardy garden
flowers of such exceeding richness and vividness of
colour. Huntsman, Firefly, Gloire de St. Anne’s and
Queen Victoria are distinctive forms of L. fulgens, four
to six feet high. In nature cardinalis is a true bog
plant, the other species delighting in wet or moist soils.
L. syphilitica is also moisture loving. Its flowers are
purple, blue or violet. L. Gerardi is a hybrid of much
value, between fulgens Queen Victoria and syphilitica.
These are three to four feet high. Careful division in
spring, and seeds.

Lupinus (Lipine).—L. polyphyllus and its white and
rose varieties are among the finest of hardy plants,
distinct of leaf and handsome of flower. Height five to
six feet; flowers early summer. Easily increased by
seeds and by division. The type has several other
varieties. Nootkatensis is a much dwarfer species, two
feet or rather more, and flowers in May and June. It is
amenable to the same treatment.

Lyehnis (Campion).—The single scarlet Lychnis
chalcedonica, three to four feet, is, undoubtedly, the
finest of this group. Easily raised from seeds, and merit-
ing the attention of all. Its double varieties, scarlet
and white, must be increased by division or heel cuttings
in spring (see page 63). The last is of poor quality.
For garden purposes Bungeana, grandiflora, and fulgens
have much in common, and might possibly prove to be
geographical variations of one species. Those cultivated
as Haageana are practically identical with the first of
these. Flowers large, scarlet, white or rose-pink, in
terminal clusters on plants one to three feet high. They
incline to tuberous roots, and slugs are very fond of
them (see Pests, Chapter XI.). Coronaria, or “* Crowned
Campion,”’ two feet high, is a showy border plant. Seeds.
L. vespertina plena (alba plena), double white Campion,
three feet, is best increased by early spring cuttings.

LUPINUS—NARCISSUS 113

The varieties of Viscaria may be increased by cuttings
and division, both in early spring. Height one-and-a-
half feet. Heel cuttings only should be employed.

Meconopsis (Himalayan Poppy).—It was no part of
my original intention to touch upon plants of biennial
duration only, though it is departed from here because
of the exceptional beauty of two species, viz., M. integri-
folia from the China-Thibet borderland, and M.
Wallichi of the Himalayas. Both occur at great alti-
tudes, 11,000 to 15,000 feet, and are much esteemed.
The first has great saucer-like flowers, coloured pale
yellow. Height two feet. The other has a noble
pyramid of pale blue flowers, six feet high. Essential
cultural items are rich vegetable soils and quick growth
from the seedling stage onwards. Sow the seeds within
a month of ripening in a temperature of 45 degrees.
Cold frame treatment is often dangerous. Long keeping
of the seeds in the dry state may be fatal to success.
Don’t coddle; treat liberally. Don’t bury the seed.
Fine sand of the thickness of a shilling will be ample.

Monarda (Bergamot).—Fragrant of leaf and brilliant of
flower, the Oswego Tea, M. didyma, should be grown by
all. Cambridge Scarlet is a good form of it. Height two-
and-a-half feet. Good garden soil anywhere. Division
to any extent, also cuttings.

Montbretias or Tritonias.—The modern improvements
of these bring them into the front rank of early autumn
border flowers. They are also valuable in the cut state.
The old way of retaining the plants permanently in the
border was wrong. Infinitely better results follow
lifting in autumn and replanting strong single corms in
March. Give them a warm position and rich, well-
drained soils. In their warm shades of orange-red and
crimson they are unique. Prometheus, Norvic, Lord
Nelson, King Edmund, George Davison, Westwick,
and Star of the East are some of the best. All are
delightful in beds or borders.

Narcissus (Dajfodil).—It is hoped to deal more or less
exhaustively with these in a separate volume to be
published later.

H

114 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Fig. 45—THE ASIATIC BELL-FLOWER, OSTROWSKIA
MAGNIFICA,

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 115

Fig. 464—ORIENTAL POPPY JENNY MAWSON.

116 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Nymphea (Water Lily).—These, like the Daffodils,
merit a volume alone, so indispensable are they to the
ornamentation of lake or pond. They afford, indeed,
life and character to the surface of the water, and are a
great charm through summer and autumn. The best
way to plant is to secure their roots (rhizomes) in baskets
of rich soil, and sink them into position. Varieties may
be obtained suitable for deep or shallow water. March
and April are good times for planting. Division. Seeds.

Cnothera (Evening Primrose).—The best of the
prostrate or trailing growers are acaulis, cespitosa
(marginata), and missouriensis. The former have white,
pink touched, fragrant flowers ; the latter pale yellow.
Fruticosa, Youngii and glauca, yellow; speciosa, white,
and its variety rosea; display a slight sub-shrubby
tendency. These are day bloomers. Border soil, cut-
tings and division in spring.

Onopordon (Cotton Thistle)—Majestic, thistle-like
plants, suitable for the wild garden. Acanthium is the
Scotch Thistle. Bracteatum and polycephalum are
giants of eight feet high ; silvery foliage and rosy purple
flower heads. Seeds. Plant seedlings early.

Ostrowskia (Aszatic Bell-flower)—A noble plant with
fleshy, brittle, carrot-like roots that descend deeply in
the earth; hence large plants require handling with the
greatest care. Requires a warm situation and loamy
soil interspersed with old mortar. The giant flowers
are about six inches across and are pale mauve and white
(Fig. 45). Raise from seeds and plant early in per-
manent positions.

Peonia.—See page 42.

Papaver (Poppy).—tThe eastern Poppy and its allies
are a great race, the colours brilliant or gorgeous in the
extreme. They are deep tap-rooted subjects, well suited
to the border and of easy culture. Raise from seeds or
by root cuttings in the case of selected varieties. Prince
of Orange, Mrs. Marsh, Queen Alexandra, Lady Roscoe,
Beauty of Livermere, Jenny Mawson (Fig. 46), and
Mephistopheles are good sorts,

NYMPHHA—PLAT YCODON 117

Pentstemon (Beard Tongue).—Apart from those re-
ferred to under florists’ flowers, p. 52, are numerous
species, of which barbatus, and its variety Torreyi,
scarlet, are among the most decorative. Height
four to five feet. Other valuable kinds are confertus,
var. coerulea purpurea, Azureus, glaber, violet-blue ;
heterophyllus, bright blue ; and cobcea, dark lilac, three
feet high. Not a few of the handsomest of the species,
natives of California, are insufficiently hardy in this
country. All are increased readily by soft cuttings in
spring, and by seeds.

Phlox.—See page 48.

Phygelius (Cape Figwort).— This brilliant flowered
plant, P. capensis, grows some three or four feet high, the
pendent scarlet flowers being borne freely on branching
racemes. The plant loves sun-heat and drought, and
may be given the hottest position of the garden, viz.,
adjacent to a south wall. Near the sea it forms bushes
sub-shrubby in character, and is highly ornamental. In
northern districts it is often cut to the ground by frost.
Soft cuttings in spring root readily. Division is quite
easy.

Physalis (Winter Cherry).—For many years we were
content with the original species P. Alkekengi, which
is now almost replaced by the hybrid Bunyardi (Alke-
kengi Xx Francheti) and by the Japanese Francheti, a
modern introduction. The flowers are insignificant,
greater value being attached to the brilliant, orange-red,
bladder-like calyces or ‘“‘ Lanterns,”’ so much in vogue in
winter decoration. Seeds and division to any extent.

Phytolaeea (Virginian Poke).—P. decandra is a fine
plant for shrubbery or woodland, and is six to ten feet
high. The flowers are at first white, then rose coloured,
on cylindrical spikes, and are succeeded in autumn by
dense clusters of blackish-purple fruits. Seeds.

Platyeodon (Chinese Bell Flower)—Handsome late
summer and autumn-flowering perennials, allied to the
Bell-flowers (Campanula) ; from one foot to two feet high.

118 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

The taller ones require a little support early to prevent
their falling about. All are varieties of the Chinese
grandiflorum, which has violet-blue flowers. Album is
nearly white ; Mariesii is deep blue and dwarf. Careful
division in spring, though seeds are much the best.

Polemonium (/acobl’s Ladder).—P. humile Richard-
sonii is perhaps the most effective of the blue-flowered
border kinds. Height two feet. Coerulea is also blue,

Fig. 47.—An Old Polyanthus Plant veady
for Division.

and album is white flowered. Confertum variety melli-
tum, creamy white, is suitable for the rock garden.
Flavum is washed out yellow. Seeds and division.

Polygonatum (Solomon’s Seal).—The common species
is multiflorum ; the most ornamental is latifolium and
its variety commutatum. P. racemosum is highly orna-
mental and somewhat scarce. Valuable for woodland
shade and forcing for conservatory decoration. Height
three to four feet. Arching stems of creamy white,
drooping fragrant flowers.

POLEMONIUM—PRIMULA Hig

Polygonum (/ot-weed).—The strong growers, cuspi-
datum and sachalinense, are fine woodland plants ;
Baldschuanicum isa lovely shrubby climber; the dwarfer
species are best in the rock garden.

Potentilla (Czmquefoil)—The best border sorts are the
florists’ varieties, which, at flowering time, are two feet
high or more. The plants have a tufted leaf growth like
the Strawberry, succeed well in cultivated garden soils,
are readily increased by division in spring and by heel

Fig. 48.—Dwided Portions ready for Planting.

cuttings at the same period. These cuttings should be
inserted in a cold frame ; heat is opposed to their well
being. California and Dr. Andre are yellow; Louis
Van Houtte, chestnut red; Mars, maroon; Victor
Lemoine, vermilion and yellow ; Wm. Rollison, scarlet,
shaded orange. All are semi-double.

Primula (Pvimvose)—The vast majority of the species
are good rock garden plants, the best border sorts (apart
from the Polyanthuses, which should find a place in
every garden, and which are so easily raised from seeds
sown in spring or late summer, or by division of old
plants after flowering) (Figs. 47 and 48) being the forms

120 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

of denticulata, which include cashmeriana, Sieboldi
(cortusoides of catalogues), pulverulenta, rosea, and
japonica. The first-named are content in rich border
soils ; Sieboldi revels in moisture and richly manured
soils in sun or shade ; pulverulenta, three to four feet
high, is a grand bog garden plant; while rosea and
japonica revel in rich ~ soils in shady moist places or
where their root fibres just reach to the water’s edge.
Where moisture is not at handits near equivalent, shade,
should be regarded as essential. With the exception of
Sieboldi varieties, which are best increased by division
after flowering, all the others may be raised from seeds,
which, if sown soon after ripening, vegetate freely. The
seeds should be covered very lightly with soil. Self-
sown seedlings often come up in hundreds near the plants
without any covering being afforded. This lesson
should not be ignored. All the Primulas may be in-
creased by root cuttings (see page 67).

Pulmonaria (Lungwort)—These are worthy plants,
because of their early spring effects of leaf and blossom.
They succeed in any good garden soil. The best are
angustifolia azurea, and arvernense, which are blue-
flowered, and of much merit. Saccharata has rose
flowers and mottled leafage. Height one foot. Readily
increased by division after flowering.

Pyrethrum.—See page 53.

Ranunculus (buttercup ; Crowfoot) —The Fair Maids
of France (R. aconitifolius fl.-pl.) is the best border kind.
It is tuberous rooted and about two feet high. Delights
in rich moist ground. Flowers in early summer. The
Persian and other Ranunculi of the florists, R. asiaticus,
are rich in colour variety and valuable in masses or beds.
The double flowers are very formal looking, and were
much esteemed by the old florists. In light soils, plant
in November ; in heavy soils, in early spring (February
and March). The tubers are quite small, and should not
be buried more than two inches. They require lifting
each year. The typical species of Palestine has brilliant
scarlet flowers.

PULMONARIA—RODGERSIA 121

Rheum (/ubarb).—The best of these—R. palmatum,
R. p. rubriflorum, whose inflorescence is wholly coloured
red, R. p. tanghuticum, R. Emodi, and R. nobile—vie
with the Ferulas, Heracleums and others in their bold
picturesque aspect of leaf and flower, and like these are
eminently fitted for isolation, wild garden, or shrubbery.

Fig. 49 —A Root Cutting of Romneya Coulteri that has started
growing. It may be cut into lengths at the white
bands for Propagation.

Height six to eight feet. Seed and division in autumn
or spring. Owing to their great leaf spread ample space
should be given.

Rodgersia (Bronze Leaf).—Handsome in foliage and
flower, and most effective in their autumn tints. Good
water-side plants in light shade. Podophylla is the best

122 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

known; it has noble leafage and creamy panicles of
flowers. Esculifolia, horse chestnut-leaved and_ pink
flowers ; pinnata, rosy crimson; and p. alba, white,
are all excellent. Division in autumn and spring, and
by seeds.

Romneya (Californian Bush Poppy).—k. Coulteri in
its fullest splendour is a glorious plant. In nature it is
almost of shrubby habit, and near the sea or a few miles
inland does well thus. In other places it is cut down by
frost, or the knife. Loves warmth, light well-drained
soils, and old mortar. A sheltered corner or near green-
house wall suits it admirably. The fine glaucous leaves
are in good contrast with the huge glistening white
flowers, which are delicately fragrant. Division, seeds
when available and root cuttings (Fig. 49).

Rudbeckia (Coneflower).—Showy border and wood-
land plants of the easiest culture. Speciosa (Newmannii),
hirta, and sub-tomentosa are the best of those growing
two feet or so high, while laciniata Golden Glow, 1.
Golden Ball, double flowered ; and levigata (Autumn
Glory), single, are desirable among those growing five to
six feet high. The former set are single, flower-heads
yellow with black disc or cone. R. purpurea is referred
to Echinacea. Maxima has great glaucous leaves dis-
tinct from all. The plant is six feet high. Californica
is also a majestic kind, having the largest flower-heads
of all. Laciniata is from six to ten feet, with much
divided leaves. Division in spring and seeds.

Saxifraga (Rockfoil).—The great inimitable wealth of
this genus belongs to the rock garden; good border
sorts are few and far between. The Megaseas—crassi-
folia, cordifoha, and ligulata, with their following—are
exceptions, and are well suited for forming bold belts to
plantings of shrubs. These are highly ornamental, too,
in the rock garden. The best of these are cordifolia
purpurea, and ligulata speciosa. They are hardy,
vigorous, and free, and while among the most accom-
modating, whether in dry or moist soils, revel in rich
soils anywhere. They are valuable for their permanent

ROMNEY A—SIDALCEA 123

leafage and good garden effect. The double meadow
Saxifrage, S. granulata fl.-pl., is at home in moist soils ;
peltata is grand in half-boggy places ; while many of the
mossy sorts are good and effective as edgings. All are
increased readily by division in spring or late summer.

Seabiosa (Scabious).—The only perennial species call-
ing for notice is S. caucasica, whose mauve-blue flower-
heads are freely produced on plants three to four feet
high in July and August. There is a white variety, and
both are excellent in the cut state. The type is very
popular with florists and gardeners. Raise from fresh
seeds ; it is the only rational way.

Schizostylis (Winter Gladiolus, Kaffir Lily) —It S.
coccinea, a remarkable plant, were treated somewhat
after the manner recommended for Montbretia—.e.,
lifted and protected in winter and planted out singly in
spring—it would do far better than is usually seen.
Flowers in November. Rich moist soils.

Sedum (/ce-flant).—S. spectabile and its variety atro-
purpurea are the best for border work, forming flatish
corymbs of pink and rose coloured flowers respectively.
In opposition to the reputed requirements of the genus,
these attain their greatest vigour—three feet or more—
in moist clay soils. Division in spring.

Senecio (Ragwort, or Groundsel).—The border kinds of
merit here are S. Doronicum, two feet, golden yellow,
spring; and S. pulcher, three feet, purplish crimson
August. The first divides with ease, and both may be
increased abundantly from root cuttings. Clivorum,
japonica, Veitchianus, and Wilsonianus are bog-loving
species, and quite handsome if rightly placed. These have
yellow flower-heads. Seed and division. Easily culti-
vated. S. pulcher requires sandy, well-drained loam.

Sidaleea (Greck Mallow).—Those of the highest garden
value are candida, Listeri, malveeflora and Rosy Gem.
The plants are about four feet high. Listeri has fringed
flowers of considerable beauty. Easily grown in border
soil in any position. Seeds, spring division, and
cuttings.

124 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Solidago (Golden Kod).—These are not of high merit
though useful in shrubbery and woodland. Succeed in
any soil, and increase rapidly at the root. Too voracious
for the choice border, although effective in late summer
and autumn. Virgaurea cambrica (nana) is a pretty
and dwarf sort. Golden Wings, Canadensis, and Shortii
are four to five feet ; all have yellow plume- like inflor-
escences. Division spring or autumn.

Spirea (Meadow Sweet).—All the Meadow Sweets love
moisture, and grow with vigour and freedom. Generally
speaking, they ; are grand water-side plants, ranging from
two feet high in filipendula to eight feet in gigantea.
Aruncus (Goat’ s Beard) is a noble plant four to five feet
high and through, with creamy white plumes. A.
plumosus is a good form of it. Astilboides and floribunda
have feathery panicles of white. Gigantea and its

variety rosea are among the boldest una. most desirable.
Palmata, with rosy red flowers, is unique anywhere,
while the forms of venusta, in pink and deep pink, are
among the most attractive. Rich soils and moisture.
Division when dormant.

Statice (Sea Lavender).—The finest of all is latifolia ;
its mound-like tufts of countless blue flowers often
measure two-and-a-half feet across. The plant attains
two feet or more high, its flower stems springing from a
prostrate rosette of leaves close to the surface. Certainly
one of the best late autumn flowering perennials. In-
valuable for cutting, and when dried one of the best of
so-called “ everlastings.”’ Easy of culture in ordinary
soil. Seeds and root cuttings are the best methods of
increase. Incana, eon and Gmelini are dwarfer
growing kinds of lesser value, though pretty.

Stokesia (S¢oke’s Aster)—The typical kind, S. cyanea,
is usually too late in flowering to be of service, while its
variety praecox, coming in August, is invaluable. The
flower-heads are deep lavender blue on branching stems,
fifteen to eighteen inches high, and are like a giant
Aster. There is a good white form. The plant is
almost impossible to increase by division, but may be

LOWER BOOK

4

I

HAT D Ys

THE

‘WQUOTHIGNVAD WAITTIYL ATIT GCOOM d

HMAMOTH-AIHVT AAL

— 0G “ate

126 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

increased to any extent by root cuttings, and by seeds
when procurable.

Thalictrum ((/cadow Rue).—The best border sorts are
the varieties of T. aquilegifolium, which have a graceful
habit of growth. These plants depend upon the plume-
like character of their filaments and anthers for their
display, the sepals early falling away. In Delavayi and
dipterocarpum, recent additions from China, the lilac
and blue sepals remain and make a goodly show in con-
junction with the anthers. Petaloideum is of this class,
too, but with white sepals; all are elegant of leaf.
Sandy loam. Division and seeds.

Thermopsis.—Two species, fabacea, two-and-a-half
feet, whose leaves are clothed with silky hairs, and
montana, three to five feet, are most usually met with,
and both have yellow, Pea-shaped flowers. Vigorous
perennials of easy culture, flowering in early summer.
Seeds and division.

Tiarella (Foam Flower).—A delightful tufted plant of
a foot high, with pinky buds and starry cream-coloured
flowers on erect spikes. For the front of the border, in
cool and deep soil, it is charming. As a choice exhibi-
tion plant it is one of the best. Easily increased by
division in spring.

Trillium (Wood Lily, Trinity Flower).—Where a peaty
bog bed has been made for the hardy Lady’s Slippers
(Cypripedium), there will these ‘“‘ Wood Lilies”? make
their happiest home (Fig. 50). In short, their chief needs
are wood shade, rich vegetable soils, and moisture. To
such essentials might I add the equally great one of
“once planted let them alone.’ Grandiflorum, g.
roseum, white and rose; erectum, purple; erythro-
carpum, white, blotched crimson ; sessile, intense purple ;
s. californicum, white and purple ; and s. Snow Queen,
are the best. Height nine to eighteen inches. Flowers
in April and May. Plant in autumn. Seeds.

Tritoma.—See [niphofia.
Tritonia.—See Montbretia.

THALICTRUM—V ERBASCUM 127

Trollius (Globe Flower)—Showy and _ handsome,
moisture-loving herbaceous perennials of about three
feet high. They are easily cultivated in rich border
soils, and give no trouble whatever. They are great
rooters and plenty of soil should be within reach. The
Asiatic kinds usually have orange flowers ; the Euro-
peans, pale yellow flowers. The first includes Fortunei
and chinensis, which have somewhat open flowers, while
the latter includes such bold growing sorts as napelli-
folius, Orange Globe, and Newry Giant. All submit
readily to division of the root-stock in spring or autumn.
Flowers in May and June.

Tropeolum (Nasturtiwm)—T. speciosum is the
‘Flame Flower,” with Bindweed-like roots, elegant and
graceful leafage, and brilliant vermilion flowers in late
summer. In parts of Scotland and the East Coast the
plant is virtually a weed, growing best, perhaps, in
sandy, heath-like soils, and in a north aspect. Some-
times, too, it is just at much at home in loamy soils, and
in both forms curtains of growth a dozen or eighteen feet
high. Prefers a cool north aspect and the companion-
ship of Holly or Yew. Plant in spring. T. polyphyllum
produces trails of glaucous foliage and yellow flowers.
It is tuberous rooted. Good for rockery. The roots
descend deeply, and shoots appear a yard away from
the original place of planting. Best in a restricted root
area, with biennial planting when dormant. Division
of the tubers ; seeds. Flowers in June.

Verbaseum (Mudllein).—The noblest of these plants—
olympicum, pannosum, phlomoides and others—are
best 1f regarded from the biennial point of view; thus
treated, they are giants indeed. The great rosettes of
leaves of some reach to nearly a yard across. Those
named are yellow flowered, six to eight feet high, and
most effective. Recently showy bronze-coloured hy-
brids have arisen, such as Caledonia ; Harkness’ hybrid,
yellow ; and Miss Willmott, white. June-August. Seeds,
winter sown. Plant in April and May.

128 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

Veronica (Speedwell).—The only species worthy of
serious thought here is subsessilis, from Japan, and this
is a plant for every garden. Height two to three feet ;
ample dark green foliage, and intense royal purple
flowers on long spikes. It attracts all who see it.
Vigorous habit and free blooming. Alongside this the
other border kinds are comparative weeds, mostly
deficient in colour. That named is a great plant.
Increases readily by soft cuttings at any time, and by
division in spring. Flowers August and September,

Viola (Tufted Pansy).—No garden is complete without
these fresh, cool-looking carpeters of the soil. They
embrace white, cream, yellow, gold, purple, violet,
crimson, and other shades of colour. May be planted
in April or October. Always, however, from freshly
rooted cuttings, not worn-out, divided stock. They
delight in cool, deep, well- enriched soils, and well grown,
no praise is too great for them. In not a few districts
the finest effects are secured from two-year-old plants.
Then are they great indeed.

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 1

i)
ido)

PAK ite

Harpy FLOWERS FoR VARIOUS PURPOSES.
(A Selection of the Finest Herbaceous Perennials.)

]
COLOUR, AND

NAME. TIME OF | Hout.
Frowerinc. | FEET.
Renate ain é . White ; ie v
Pe Eupatorium Yellow ; August 4
* Ptarmica The Pearl White : 24
July, August
ss Perry’s White July, August 23
Aconitum Fischeri : : Blue ; Sept. 24
zs Wilsonii Rich Blue ; ;sept. | 9-6
Adonis amurensis Yellow ; March 1
99 fl.-pl. | Yellow; March | 1
58 vernalis | Yellow ; ANoveill ij I
Anchusa italica, Dropmore var. | Blue; June, July | 4-6
a a Opal | Pale Blue ; 4-6
[ee aemes salva)
Anemone alpina , | Pale Blue; May | W
> Hepatica, in variety Red, White, Blue ; 4
| Spring
. japonica (all vars.) | Red, White ; 4
July, August
3 sylvestris grandiflora White ; May 14
Anthericum Liliastrum major White ; 2
May, June
Aquilegia chrysantha 5 Yellow ; July 3-4
55 ceerulea hybrids, various July, August 2-3
Aster Amellus, all varieties August 2
9 aoa : Blue ; August 24
», (Michaelmas Daisies) various = —
Astilbe Ceres. : Rose ; August 3
‘5 Queen Alexandra Pink ; August 3
55 Snow Plume . | White ; August 3
Campanula carpatica alba . White ; Sept. Be
ne Riverslea Blue ; Sept. 1
White Star White ; 1
August, Sept.
ae persicifolia alba
grandiflora White ; July 24

130
NAME.

Campanula persicifolia alba fl.-pl.

nF Van Houttei
Centaurea montana rubra
Chelone barbata

3 coccinea

53 Torreyi :
Chrysanthemum maximum ° vars. .
Coreopsis grandiflora .
lanceolata .

”

Delphiniums, various .
Doronicum plantagineum excelsum

Echinops Ritro .
Erigeron Quakeress

z. speciosus superbus

Eryngium amethystinum

Funkia Sieboldi.
», subcordata
Gaillardias, in variety.

Galega, His Majesty

Geum chiloense Mrs, J. Bradshaw
,. Heldreichi superbum

Helenium, in variety .

Helianthus (Sunflower)

Hemerocallis (Day Lily) aurantiaca
major ‘

Dr. Regal

Dumortieri

”

”

flava
in variety

”

Heucheras,

Incarvillea Delavayi
Iris, a great variety

| Yellow ;
Yellow ; Summer |

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

COLOUR, AND
TIME OF
FLOWERING.

White ; July
Blue ; July, Aug.
Red; June
Scarlet ;
July, September
Deep Scarlet ;
Coral Red ;
White ;
Summer

June, July
Yellow ; Spring

Blue ;
July, August
Pale Blue ;
July, October
Blue ;
July, September
Blue ; August

Bluish ; August
White ; August
Crimson & Gold ;
Summer
Blue & White ;
July, August
Scarlet ; Summer

Orange&Crimson ;

Summer
Yellow ; Summer
Yellow ;
August, Sept.

Orange ; August
Orange ; August
Yellow & Red ;
June
Yellow, June
July, September

Rose ;

June

Summer |

Ls al Sl

romeo, HH bo bo bo

toto

~ QOnmrpe wow

te te bob
Lop th

bo bo bo

No bo
to teh

ip
rs

GE STAR DY VE LOWER BOOK

COLOUR, AND

NAME. TIME OF
FLOWERING.
= - a
Kniphofia John Benary . > || Seamlet > Saou,
5 aloides glaucescens . |, Scarlet and
ie » grandiflora Vermilion
3 SSE Olas Aug., Sept.
Lathyrus latifolius The Pearl : | White ;
| July, September
Liatris graminifolia Dubia . : Rose Purple ;
August
Lobelia cardinalis : 5 . | Vermilion; Aug. |
», fulgens Queen Victoria . | Vermilion; Aug.
7 ©6Bire Bly ‘ ‘ Z Scarlet ;
August, Sept.
Lychnis chalcedonica . : : Scarlet ; July

Monarda didyma : é Scarlet ; July

% », Cambridge Scarlet July
Ponies, in variety . : ; June
Papaver (Poppy), in variety : June
Phlox (Herbaceous) in variety. July, August
Physalis Bunyardii . : : August, Sept.

ewtanchetiine. c ; August, Sept.
Platycodon grandiflorum . ‘ Fine Blue ;

July, Sept.
Primula Sieboldii, various . om Spring
ss pulverulenta. : . | Crimson; June
Pyrethrum, in variety, double . June

ss a Singlemaae June
Rudbeckia laciniata Golden Glow August

5 levigata . : . | Yellow; August

i. speciosa . : = | Yellow ;

| July, August
Scabiosa caucasica . 5 : Mauve ;
July, August
3 alin : : White ;
July, August
Saxifraga cordifolia purpurea ; Reddish ;
May, June
4 ligulata speciosa . : Reddish ;
May, June
Sedum spectabile : : : Pink ; August
op 5 atropurpureum Rose ; August

131

bob ice) Ot lop)
tol bol

roe
HH C2 OO

|

NoNw- Nowwow
LS al eS

Se) Noun

132

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

|

NAME.

Spirea astilboides :
» *, floribunda

» palmata
Statice latifolia .

Stokesia Cyanea precox
Thalictrum aquilegifolium .

purpureum
roseum

) ”)

” ”)

Delavayi

o dipterocarpum
Tiarella cordifolia
Trillium grandiflorum.

Trollius Fortunei & Orange Globe
Tropzolum speciosum

Veronica subsessilis

THE Best BuULBoUS

|

|
|

COLOUR, AND |
TIME OF
FLOWERING.
|

White ; July
White ; July
Crimson ; July
Blue ;
August, Sept.
Blue ; |
July, August
Cream ; June
Purple ; June
Rose ; June
Lilac Blue ;
July, August
Violet ;
July, August
White ;
May, June
White ;
April, May
Orange ; June
Scarlet ;
August, Sept.
Intense Violet ;
August, Sept.

RootTED PLANTS.

NAME.

Anemone blanda :
scythinica

) ”

sd coronaria vars.

St. Brigid

9

fulgens

‘Blue, White, Rose;

Scarlet ; Spring

CoLouR, AND
TIME OF
FLOWERING.

Blue; Spring
White & Blue ;
Spring |

Spring
All Colours ;
Spring

—_
toh

HH bobo bo

24
Climber

24

AND 'TUBEROUS

HGuHur.

| FEET.

noe

SEE SEATED AT BOWIE. BOOK

NAME.

Camassia Leichtlinii

3 atrocerulea

Chionodoxa gigantea, Lucilie and

sardensis C

Colchicum speciosum . :
33 i album

6 5 rubrum

Crinum Powelliu.

album

”) ”

5 5 yemense
Crocus, species and varieties
Cyclamen (hardy), any
Eranthis cilicica

es hyemalis

Eremutrus, any (see page 91).
Erythronium, any

Fritillaria imperialis, vars., all

x chitralensis .

”)
As meleagris, vars.

Galanthus (Snowdrop)
Gladiolus, a great variety

Hyacinthus amethystinus
Hyacinths (Bedding), various

Iris, English, in variety
») Spanish

”

Ixiolirion montanum ‘ayeenereriin ‘

Pallasii

Lilium auratum platyphyllum

» Batemanii
Brownii

» candidum speciosum
,, chalcedonicum

” ”

Eleldreiehia

COLOUR, AND
TIME OF
FLOWERING.

| Cream ;
| Blues;

August
August

Blue ;
Rose ;
White ; Sept.
Reddish ; Sept.
| Rose ; |
August, Sept. |
White ;
August, Sept.
White ;
August, Sept.
“Spring |
|Spring & Autumn

Yellow ;

| Yellow ;

Spring
Sept.

Winter
Winter |

Spring

_ Yellow; March
| April

White ; Winter
July, August

Blue ; May
Spring

| June, July
| June, July
Deep Blue ;

| May, June |

Rach ws wey 5)
| May, June |
|White & Crimson ;
| August |
| Apricot ; August
| White & Choco- |

late; July
. | White; July
| Scarlet ; July

Scarlet ; July |

133

| Haut.
| FEET.

OO

(Se) [o) Oe Re

Nowmw ne Woo iso tole |

tole toj—
|
ise)

a lumiad

134

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

NAME.

Lilium Dalhansonii

”

”

”

Dauricum
excelsum

Hansonii
Henryi .

Martagon dalmaticum

monadelphum
pardalinum, any vars.
pomponium

a verum . :
speciosum album Kraetzeri

oS » novum .

») macranthum
melpomene

ie magnificum

Thunbergianum, in vars. .
tigrinum (any)

umbellatum (any)

Montbretia Prometheus

Muscaria conicum

” b)
Narcissus (Daft

Star of the East

Heavenly Blue

)

Orchis foliosa

Puschkinia libanotica.

Ranunculus asiaticus, in variety .

Tulips of all sections .

odils) a great variety |

|

|
|

COLOUR, AND
TIME OF
FLOWERING.

Dark ; June

Yellow & Red ;

June

Nankeen Yellow;

July
Golden; July
Orange ;
August, Sept.
Nearly Black ;
July
Yellow ; July
July, August
Scarlet ; June
Scarlet ; June
White ;
August, Sept.
White ;
August, Sept.
Rose ;
August, Sept.
Crimson ;
August, Sept.
Crimson ;
August, Sept.

Orange & Crimson

August, Sept.

| Orange Yellow ; |

August, Sept.

Blue & White ;

Spring
May, June

March, May

RHE HARDY FLOWER BOOK 135

Harpy FLOWERS THAT BLOOM IN SPRING.

Adonis amurensis

” ” fl.-pl.

=m », vernalis
Allium neapolitanum
Alyssum saxatile
Anemone alpina

5 apennina

e coronaria,in variety

os fulgens

3 Hepatica in variety

- nemorosa Kobin-

sonii

* nemorosa Allenii
pulsatilla

43 ranunculoides

.; sulphurea

5 sylvestris

mg », grandiflora
Arabis albida fl.-pl.
Aubrietias (all vars.)

Bulbocodium vernum

Chionodoxa, all kinds
Crocuses, in great variety
Cyclamen Coum vars.
Cypripedium Calceolus

53 pubescens

Dicentra eximia
an spectabilis
Doronicums, all

Epimediums, of sorts
Erythroniums (Dog’s Tooth
Violet)

Harpy FLOWERS THAT

Achillea alpina

55 Eupatorium

an mongolica
Ptarmica, The Pearl

a », Perry’s White
Alstroemeria aurantiaca

+)

Fritillarias, of sorts

Galanthus (Snowdrop)
Gentiana acaulis
ap verna

Helleborus (Lenten Roses)
Hepatica (see Anemone
Hepatica)

Iris nudicaulis
5, pumila

Muscarias (all the kinds)

Narcissus (a great variety)

Omphalodes verna
Orobus vernus

Phlox divaricata
», canadensis, Perry’s var.
Primula, many species and
vars., including Polyanthus
Pulmonaria angustifolia
y EaZuked
arvernense
Fe saccharata
Saxifraga, a large number
Scilla, all kinds

Trillium, all the kinds
Tulipa, species and varieties

BLOoM IN SUMMER.

Anchusa italica, Dropmore
var.

“ » _ opal
Androsace lanuginosa
Anemone japonica, all vars.
Anthemis Triumfettii

136 THE HARDY

Anthericum liliastrum major
Aquilegia, of sorts

Armeria plantaginea rubra
Aster subcceruleus

Astilbes, all the kinds

Campanulas, a great variety
Centaurea montana rubra
Chelone barbata coccinea
at ae Torreyi
Chrysanthemum maximum,
in variety

Cimicifuga cordifolia
racemosa

et simplex
Coreopsis grandiflora

aa lanceolata
Cypripedium spectabile

Delphiniums, a great variety
Dictamnus albus
caucasicus

+”

Eremurus, any kinds

Galegas, of sorts

Galtonia candicans

Geranium grandiflorum

ibericum

chiloense Mirss |):
Bradshaw

Heldreichii superbum

early flowering

”

Geum

Gladiolus,

sorts
Gypsophila paniculata
fl.-pl.

+) ”)

Heleniums, of sorts
Helianthus, all varieties
Hemerocallis, all kinds
Heuchera, in variety

Incarvillea Delavayi
= grandiflora
Irises, of many kinds and
varieties

Kniphofias, of sorts

Lathyrus latifolius The
Pearl

Liliums, of sorts

FLOWER BOOK

Lupinus polyphyllus

5 albus

Lychnis chalcedonica

coronaria

Haageana

viscaria
plena

”
+”)

splendens

3)”

Monarda didyma
Cambridge
Scarlet

” ”

Montbretias, all

Peonies, a great gathering
Papaver orientale, in variety
Pentstemons, hybrids and
species
Phlox (herbaceous), in
variety
. alpine sorts and
their allies
Primula japonica

7 pulverulenta
Pyrethrum, double vars.
” single ”
Rodgersia esculefolia
3 podophylla
= pinnata
alba

”)

”)
Rudbeckias, in variety

Saxifraga Cotyledon, vars.
Scabiosa caucasica

- gala
Sedum spectabile

5 » atropurpureum

Spirea, any kinds
Statice latifolia
Stokesia cyanea precox

Thalictrum aquilegifolium,
vars.
Delavayi
nF dipterocarpum
Thermopsis fabacea
nS montana
Trollius, of sorts

”

Veronica subsessilis

Wahlenbergia vinceflora

EE SAR DY SMP LOW Ee BOOK 137

Harpy FLOWERS THAT BLOOM IN AUTUMN.

N.B.—The groups marked * are bulbous rooted.

Aconitum Fischeri
me Wilsonii
Androsace lanuginosa
Anemone japonica, all vars.
Artemisia lactiflora
Asclepias tuberosa
Aster acris
,, amellus, in variety
,, (Michaelmas Daisies),
in variety
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides
*Colchicum, of sorts
*Crinum Powelli
$5 » album
- yemense
*Crocus medius
3 nudiflorus
As speciosus
= Aitchisoni
*Cyclamen europeum
neapolitanum
*Gladiolus brenchleyensis
i, Childsi
gandavensis
hybrids
3s Lemoinei
Nanceanus
Helenium, all

”)

Helianthus, any kinds
Kniphofia, of sorts

Lobelia cardinalis
fulgens, Queen
Victoria
35 fulgens, Firefly
55 syphilitica,in variety
*Montbretias, generally
Pentstemon (Chelone) barbata
at Florists’ varieties
a heterophyllus
Phlox (herbaceous)
Physalis Bunyardii
35 Franchetii
Platycodon grandiflorum
album

”)

” ”»

Mariesii
Polygonum affine
vaccinifolium
Potentilla atrosanguinea
Gibson’s variety
Tonguei
*Sternbergia lutea angusti-
folia
*Zauschneria californica
», Splendens
*Zephy ranthes candida

Harpy FLOWERS THAT BLOOM IN WINTER.

Anemone blanda

Crocus Balansae

», Imperatii

Pe Siebert
Dondia epipactis
Eranthis cilicica

hyemalis

Helleborus altifolius
niger major
3 ,, angustifolius
a 5, Sscoticus

Helleborus niger Mdme.

Fourcade
sts 3 St. Brigid
Iris alata
,, Heldreichi
ELISERLO
,, Histrioides major
,, reticulata
Tauri

unquiculata (stylosa), in
variety

138 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

PLANTS FOR FORMING EDGINGS.

Acantholimon glumaceum
Acena microphylla
Achillea tomentosa

». umbellata
Ajuga reptans purpurea
Alyssum saxatile
Antennaria dioica tomentosa
Arabis albida fl.-pl.

.. » Variegata
Armerias, all

Campanula cespitosa
garganica, in
variety
G. F. Wilson

muralis

pulla

s pusilla

Cerastium tomentosum

Coronilla varia
Peedbenica

Crucianella stylosa vars.

Dactylis glomerata variegata

Harpy PLANTS FOR

Anemone Hepatica,in variety
», . Japonica, in vars.

Aquilegia, in variety

Asperula odorata

Astrantia major

Campanula carpatica,all vars,

persicifolia, all
vars.

tall varieties,
generally

Corydalis nobilis

”

”)

Dentarias, of sorts
Epimediums, of sorts

Fritillarias

THE SHADY

Dianthus of sorts, including
single and double Pinks
Dicentra eximia
Ericas (Hardy

variety.
Festuca glauca

Heaths) in

Iberis in variety
Iris nudicaulis

Phlox frondosa
» subulata, vars.
Saxifraga, all the mossy sorts
make perfect edgings
Silene alpestris
», Maritima plena
Thalictrum minus
Thymus lanuginosus
» serpyllum albus
x = coccineum
Veronica incana
saxatilis
35 Teucrium var.dubia
Viola cornuta, in variety

”

BORDER.

Galanthus (Snowdrop)

Helleborus niger, all vars.
a orientalis, all vars.
Heuchera, all vars.

Iris, all the “‘Flag’”’ section
», levigata, all
» orientalis
», sibirica

Lilium, all the vigorous grow-
ing sorts

Lysimachia

Lythrum

Monarda
Myosotis, in variety

LES HARDY FLOWER BOOK

139

Narcissus poeticus, vars. |

Omphalodes verna

Saxifraga cordifolia
An 45 purpurea |

crassifolia |

ligulata speciosa

=A granulata plena

”

Harpy PLANTS FOR

Achillea alpina
» Eupatorium
» mongolica
,, Ptarmica plena
5 » Perry’s White
Aconitum, any vars.
Adonis, all vars.
Alstromeria aurantiaca
Anchusa, in variety
Anemone alpina
PA pulsatilla
sylvestris grandi-
flora
Anthericums, any
Aquilegia, all
Asclepias tuberosa
Asters, a great variety
Aubrietias, any

”

Campanula carpatica vars.

ee pyramidalis,vars.

3 punctata

glomerata dahur-
ica

a Hendersoni

3 Hillside Gem
oe Van Houttei
Carnations of sorts
Chrysanthemum maximaim,
vars.
Coreopsis, of sorts

Delphiniums, in variety
Doronicums, of sorts

Echinops, in variety

Thalctrum minus
5 adiantifolium
S Delavayi
55 dipterocarpum
Trollius, of sorts
Trillium grandiflorum

Violas (Tufted Pansies)

SUNNY BoRDERS.

Erigerons, of sorts
Eryngiums, several kinds

Gaillardias

Galegas, of sorts

Geraniums

Gerbera Jamesoni
hardy)

(where

Helenium, in vars.
Helianthus, in vars.
Hemerocallis, in vars.
Hesperis, in vars.
Heucheras, in vars.

Iberis, in vars.

Iris, all the “‘ Flag ’’ tribe
» gigantea
» English and Spanish

Linum flavum
Lupinus, of sorts
Lychnis, of sorts

Montbretias

Ponies

Perennial Poppy
Pentstemon, of sorts
Phlox, of sorts
Platycodon grandiflorum
Potentillas, all
Pyrethrums, in variety

Rudbeckias, in variety

Scabiosa, in variety

140

A SELECTION

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

OF ORNAMENTAL PLANTS FOR

PICTURESQUE EFFECTS.

Those genera marked with an asterisk (*) are effective also as

flowering

Acanthus, any vars.
* Anemone japonica, in var.
Aralia edulis
5, Spinosa
*Artemisia lactiflora
Arundo Donax vars.
Be conspicua
*Astilbe Davidii
» tivularis
5 » gigantea
Bambusa, in variety
*Bocconia cordata
5, microcarpa
*Buphthalmum speciosum

*Centaurea Babylonica

‘A glastifolia
yh macrocephala
*Cortaderia (Gynerium) ar-
gentea

*Crambe cordifolia

*Eremurus himalaicus
* aH robustus

i, ,, Elwesiana
*Eryngium amethystinum

%s giganteum
Oliverianum
pandanifolium
serra, not hardy
; in all localities
Ferula, in variety
Funkia, in variety
Gunnera scabra

5 manicata
*Helianthus latiflorus
a Maximillianus
. orgyalis |
a sparsifolius
*Hemerocallis fulva
3 Kwanso, in
variety
Be disticha

|

plants.

*Heracleum giganteum

5 mantegazzianum

*Lihum giganteum

*Onopordon acanthium
9H bracteatum
9 polycephalum

*Phytolacca decandra
Polygonum cuspidatum
cymosum
sachalinense

>

”

*Rheum Emodi
5 palmatum Tanghu-
ticum
a palmatum
florum

rubri-

Saxifraga peltata
*Senecio Clivorum
ee japonica syn.
throcheta
matifida
x Ledebouri
3 Ligularia
5 macrophyllus
se Veitchianus
i. Wilsonianus
Silphiums, in variety
*Spirea aruncus
» gigantea
ELOSCammcle—
gans
*Thalictrum flavum
5 glaucum
*Tritomas (Kniphofias), in
vars.
*Veratrum album
nigrum
5 viride
*Verbascum, in variety

Ery-
pal-

”

”)

*Yuccas, of sorts

THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

141

Harpy FLOWERS FoR SHOW PURPOSES.

‘““P” indicates those best suited for showing in specimen pans ;
““C” those better suited for exhibition in the cut state.

Achillea, dwarf and silvery |
leaved (P)
59 taller growing |
sorts (C) |

Alyssum saxatile (P)

3 montanum (P)
Amaryllis Belladonna (C)
Anemone, dwarf tuberous

kinds (P) |
ce tall sorts (C)
Aquilegia (C)
Armeria cephalotes
(C& P)
Asclepias tuberosa (C)
Aubrietia, any (P)

rubra

Brodiza coccinea (C & P)

Campanula, dwarf sorts (P)
of tall g-owers /C)

Coreopsis (C)

Crinum (C)

Cyclamen (P)

Cypripediums (P) |

Dianthus (P)
Dicentra eximia (P)

% spectabilis (P)
Dodecatheons (P)
Draba azoides (P)

Edraianthus (P)
Epimediums (P)
Eryngium (C)

Fritillaria imperialis (C)
3 meleagris (P)

Gaillardias (C)
Gentiana acaulis (P)

Helleborus, all sorts (P)

Hutchinsia (Noccaea) alpina
(P)

Hypericums, dwarf (P)

Iberis, of sorts (P)
Iris, of many kinds (C & P)

Kniphofia (C)

Leucojum vernum (P)
Liliums, generally (C & P)
Linum flavum (P)
Lychnis, generally (C)
Lysimachia Henryi (P)

Monarda (C)
Montbretia (C)
Muscaria (P)

Narcissus (C & P)
Ourisia coccinea (P)

Pzonia (C & P)
Phlox, alpine sorts (P)
herbaceous (C)
Pinguicula grandiflora (P)
Platycodon grandiflorum (P)
f Mariesii (P)
Polygonum vaccinifolium (P)
Primula, in variety (P)
Puschkinia scilloides (P)
Pyrethrums (C)

Rudbeckia (C)

Saxifraga, a great host (P)
Sedum, of sorts (P)
Statice latifolia (C)

Trillium (P)
Trollius (C)
Tulipa (C)

Violas (P)

142 THE HARDY FLOWER BOOK

A SELECTION OF HERBACEOUS AND ALPINE
PLANTS THAT MAY BE RAISED FROM SEEDS.

Acanthus Erigeron Monarda
Achillea Erinus Morina
Aconitum Frodium (uations
AZthionema Eryngium @aamne
Alyssum Euphorbia
Anchusa tritillari Papaver
Anemone Fritillaria Pentstemon
Antirrhinum Gaillardia Phlox :
Aquilegia Galega Physostegia
Armeria Geranium Platycodon
Aster Geum Polemonium
Aubrietia Gypsophil Potentilla
Leo nae Primula
Baptisia Helenium Pyrethrum
Betonica Heuchera Rudheciaa
Brodiza Hypericum
Saxifraga
Campanula | Iberis | Scabiosa
Chelone | Inula Sedum
Chrysanthemum Iris Silene
Coreopsis Isopyrum Spireea
Coronilla oe Statice
Tae athyrus
Soy eae Tee Thermopsis
Delphinium Lilium Trollius
Dianthus Linum Tropzolum
Draba Lobelia (her- Tunica
Dracocephalum | baceous) Verbascum
Echinacea Lupinus Viola
Echinops | Lychnis Zauschneria

A SELECTION OF MoISTURE-LOVING PLANTS.

Astilbe, of sorts Dentaria
Butomus umbellatus Epilobium
Caltha, of sorts Ficaria

Camassia esculenta
Chrysobactron Hookeri

Gentiana Andrewsii

Crinums, all ne Pneumonanthe
Cypripedium pubescens Gunnera scabra
s spectabile <5 manicata

RHE HARDY TP LOWER BOOK 143

Hellonias

Iris aurea
graminea
Monnieri
ochroleuca
sibirica

Leucojum estivum

Lilium canadense, vars.

paradalinum vars.
a superbum

Linnea borealis

Lobelias (tall growers)

Lysimachia

Lythrum

”

Narcissus poeticus, vars., all
-f Emperor
oe Empress
” Horsfieldii

Sir Watkin

Orchis
Primula Bulleyana
Es japonica
» Munroii
- pulverulenta
eetosed
is sikkimensis
Rodgersia

Sarracenia purpurea
Spigelia marilandica
Spirea, many sorts
Swertia perennis
Senecio clivorum

A japonica

ae Wilsonianus

Veitchianus

Trillium, in variety

Harpy FERNS FOR THE SHRUBBERY BORDER
oR WooDLAND.

Athyrium—
Filix foemina
* » corymbiferum
is » crispum
3 », Edwardsii
. » Fielde
Frizellze

” »”
Aspidium spinulosum
Lastrza filix-mas, in variety

<5 oreopteris
dilitata

3 Goldieana

- erythrosora

Onoclea sensibilis
Osmunda cinnamomea
0 Clay toniana

Osmunda gracilis
a5 regalis
cristata

) ”)

Polypodium phegopteris

5 vulgare cambri-
cum
be vulgare elegan-
tissimum
Polystichum acrostichoides
. aculeatum

» angulare proliferum
Pteris aquilina

Scolopendrium, many sorts
Struthiopteris germanica
5 pennsylvanica

Uniform with “‘ The Hardy Flower Book.”

THE SMALL
ROCK GARDEN

By
BE. HoH. JENKINS:

Over Fifty Illustrations and Coloured
Frontispiece.

Price 2/6 net.

By post 4d. extra.

The ‘‘Country Life’ Library, 20, Tavistock
Street, W.-C.

SSS sss... 0&S aA

A CATALOGUE
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COUNTRY
|

tH

SMALL COUNTRY
HOUSES OF TO-DAY

Edited by LAWRENCE WEAVER.

Second Edition now ready. Large quarto, bound in linen, gilt.

15/- net.

By post (inland) 15/6. By post (Foreign and Colonial) 16/6.

224 pages and 300 illustrations.

HIS volume fills a distinctive place, because not only is
the picked work of more than forty of the best architects
of the day shown
by plan and
photograph, but
it 1s discussed
in detail, frankly
yet sympatheti-
cally. As the
houses illustra-
ted, nearly fifty

in all, vary from

large cottages
costing £600 to

A FINE BRICK HOUSE.
(Reduced specimen illustration.)

dignified country homes costing £5,000, all sorts of internal
arrangement and architectural and garden treatment are brought
under review. To all of moderate means who contemplate
building a country house, this book will be of the utmost

value,

GARDENS for SMALL
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By GERTRUDE JEKYLL and LAWRENCE WEAVER

Third Edition. Revised and enlarged.

Large quarto, bound in linen, gilt.*

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By post (inland) 15/7. By post (Foreign and Colonial) 16/7.
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HIS volume deals with garden design as a whole, with
reference both to the proportions and architectural elements
which govern a successful plan, and to right and artistic planting.
The first seven chapters describe in detail some beautiful gardens
of varying type
which illustrate
the solving of dit-
ferent problems.
Very important
are the planting
plans by Miss
Jekyll, whose
reputation as a
deviser of colour
schemes is world-
wide. In other
chapters the treat-
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ay, kinds of sites is
(Reduced specimen illustration.) discussed in detail
with scores of plans and photographs of examples by well-known
designers. The chief architectural features of gardens, such as
pergolas, pools and fountains, walls, steps and paving, garden
houses, seats and sundials, are described with a lavish series
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THE HOUSE AND
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Edited by LAWRENCE WEAVER

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212 pages and 240 illustrations.

T is impossible that any one writer can deal with the many problems tha
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equal knowledge and sympathy. ‘The scheme of this volume, with its

forty-three chapters contributed by twenty-three experts of acknowledged ability
ensures the throwing of fresh light on scores of questions that concern the
comfort and pleasure of everyone. ‘To all who own a home, and are not wholly
satished with it, and to all who contemplate improving an existing house, or
building anew, this volume will be of the utmost value.

THE “COUNT RY -Liig
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Nearly 250 pages and 300 Illustrations and Plans.

HE word “cottage” has been grossly misused, especially in the titles of

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thousands. Save for a few gate lodges the buildings illustrated in this
volume are truly cottages and none of a greater cost than {£600 is included.
Full consideration has been given to cottages of all types—for the rural labourer,
the estate servant, the smallholder, the clerk who lives outside the town, the
“‘week-ender ” and those of limited means who want a permanent home of refined
character in the country at the smallest possible cost. ‘This book is indispensable
to all estate owners, to everyone who contemplates building a cottage of any sort,
and to all who are interested in Housing questions.

A Work of National Importance

indsor Castle

AN ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY

Collected and written by Command of Their Majesties

QUEEN VICTORIA
KING EDWARD VII. and
KING GEORGE V.

Baw kn ok OHN HOPE Lice. D.C.

Imperial Quarto, in two Volumes, and a Portfolio

Bound in Half Sheepskin - £6 6 QO net
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99

99

WINDSOR CASTLE stands alone among the buildings of Great Britain.
It is the greatest among our early fortresses and the most splendid
of Royal Palaces. It includes within its walls a rich example of the
most typically English phase of Gothic Architecture—St. George’s
Chapel, the home of the Knights of the oldest existing order of
Chivalry in Christendom, the most noble Order of the Garter.
The story of English Building during eight centuries is very fully
written in the stones of Windsor, but not so that everyone may
read. The slow accretions of centuries are not easy to disentangle,
and it needed the skill and wide archeological experience of Mr.
W.H. St. John Hope to set out in its true proportions the fascinating
story of the growth of this great architectural organism.

The edition is strictly limited to 1,050 numbered copies, of which over
400 were subscribed before publication. It has been printed from new type
on pure rag paper, specially made for this edition. It is illustrated by ex-
quisite reproductions in colour of drawings by Paul Sandby; by a large
number of collotype plates reproducing a unique collection of original draw-
ings, engravings and photographs which show the castle at every stage of its
dev elopment ; as well as by beautiful woodcuts, prepared expressly by the
great engraver Orlando Jewitt for this History, when it was first projected.
Many of the illustrations are reproduced for the first time, by special per-
mission of His Majesty the King. from originals in the Royal Library at
Windsor.

The portfolio contains a notable reproduction of Norden’s View of
Windsor and a complete series of plans, specially printed in fourteen colours,
which show the dates of all the buildings in the Castle and their successive
changes.

In English Homes

I/lustrating the architectural character, decorations and

furniture of some of the most notable Houses of England

Oolumes Te I and Tite

AND THE RECENTLY PUBLISHED FOURTH VOLUME

ENGLISH HOMES of the EARLY
RENAISSANCE

(ELIzABETHAN AND JACOBEAN Houses aND GARDENS)

Edited by H. AVRAY TIPPING, M.A. F.SA.

£2 2s. net each.

By post 62.38:

HESE four notable volumes form together an

unequalled pictorial survey of the domestic architec-
ture of England of every style and period. ‘They are,
moreover, a treasury, not only of the life stories of the
notable men and women who have lived in our historic
homes, but of those county and village traditions which
throw so much light on the larger issues that have made

the history of the nation.

‘A veritable revelation of the wealth of internal adornments, architectural and other,
contained in the great country mansions of England. To turn over the pages is to
obtain keen pleasure, as well as enlightenment, concerning a treasury of domestic art

and archeology, which to a large extent is kept closed from the common eye.’ —Scotsman.

GARDENS
OLD AND NEW

(The Country House and its Garden Environment)

died by Ei AVRAY ARP PING, IMAL VES.

Crown folio (15 in. by 10in.),
Handsomely bound in cloth, gilt edges.

Columes 1., I1., and II.

£2 2s. net each

cr

By post £,2 3S.

HESE three volumes illustrate the relationship between
house and garden, and the beauties of every type of
garden, both formal and natural, in a way never before attempted.
They afford a complete survey of the whole history of garden
design and garden architecture, considered from every point

of view, historical, artistic and horticultural.

‘The title given to this handsome book hardly does justice to the contents. The
gardens that it so lavishly portrays, charming as they are, would be without life
and meaning,

and castles that are centred in each we!l-chosen view. There must be almost a

except as settings to the priceless old English halls, manor-houses,

thousand of these fascinating pictures in this one volume, and all, with one exception,
have been chosen from sixty-four famous places, so that one does not merely have
a passing glimpse of a multitude of widely-scattered scenes, but, on an average,
fifteen careful outdoor studies of each beautiful house and its surroundings.’’
—Morning Post.

The ‘Country Life” Library of Architectural Monographs.

HOUSES AND
GARDENS BY
bok Lo Yas

Described and criticised by

LAWRENCE WEAVER

Large crown folio (16 by 11), bound in quarter buckram,
gilt, over 350 pages and 500 magnificent illustrations.

25s. net

Inland postage, 10d. extra

HIS book is lavishly illustrated with photographs of about

eighty of Mr. Lutyens’ most typical houses and gardens,

many of which have never previously been published.
Interspersed in the fox is a large number of plans, and
there is an appendix of 22 pages giving a valuable series of scale
drawings of typical buildings. The subjects are accompanied by
descriptions and critical appreciations which incidentally throw
considerable light on the general development of the domestic
building of to- day. In all respects the book is the most important
and interesting monograph of the work of an architect yet pub-
lished.

The Scotsman says: ‘“‘ Among the English architects whose work has
saved modern domestic architecture from the reproach of merely handing
down the traditions of a lost art, none has done more or better work than
Whe, 18s Ib, bine 5 Gc Mr. Lawrence Weaver has written a learned
and judicious appreciation of the work of this busy and indefatigable master-
builder, which covers an extraordinarily large and varied field. To look over
the multitude of photographs brought together in this aibum and to consider
Mr. Weaver’s reverent criticisms is to realise how, with mastery and versatility
in the most varied and opposed manners, and as happy with a pergola as
with a hall fireplace in a stately country house, Mr. Lutyens has yet a dis-
tinctly personal note of his own. none the less characteristic or charming
because it is English. The book has some five hundred delightful photo-
graphs, a hundred plans of houses and gardens, and many detail drawings.
Architects and students of architecture will pronounce it valuable in itself
and of good promise for the series in which it appears.”’

OUR COMMON
SEA-BIRDS

CORMORANTS, TERNS, GULLS, SKUAS, PETRELS, ann AUKS

By EERCY KR LOW Ei. BA; MBs bc.

With Chapters by BENTLEY BEETHAM, FRANCIS HEATHERLEY,
W. R. OGILVIE-GRANT, OLIVER G. PIKE, W. P. PycraFt, A. J. ROBERTS, etc.

Large quarto, cloth, gilt, over 300 pages, and nearly 250 illustrations

15s. net, inland postage 7d. extra

NLIKE the majority of books dealing with

birds, this volume is of interest to the general

reader and to the student of ornithology alike.

It is a book that enables the reader to identify
our sea-birds by name, to understand their movements,
their habits, their nests, and their eggs.

Dr. Lowe, during many yachting trips round the
British Islands, in the Mediterranean, and across the
Atlantic, has had exceptional opportunities of studying
the habits and life histories of our sea-birds, and this book,
in addition to embodying much valuable infomation from
the latest records, contains a large number of new facts
and original theories of intense interest to all. The
Introductory pages and the chapters on the Flight of Birds
deserve the closest attention.

The Illustrations are of extraordinary merit and
beauty. They exhibit. in a marked degree, the result not
only of the skill, knowledge, and ingenuity of the photo-
graphers, but of their high enthusiasm and unwearying
patience,

““* Our Common Sea-Birds’ is not only written with the clearness and
simplicity which are the first essentials of such a book, but it is also enriched
with a series of illustrations which no epithet but ‘ marvellous’ is adequate
to describe.”’—The Glasgow Herald.

10

PASTIME “Witla
GOOD COMPANY

Pictured) sbi
G. D. ARMOUR

With an Introduction by
HORACE G. HUTCHINSON

Royal quarto, tastefully bound, containing over fifty
choice plates thoroughly typical of Mr. Armour’s art

15s. net, postage 6d. extra

N the beautiful picture gallery disclosed through
I the pages of this volume, Mr. Armour presents a
wonderfully repre-
sentative collection
of his art. Whether
it is the field in
“fal crys aus
grouse coming over
the heather, the
polo player dashing
towards the goal,
or the otter hound
surging through the
rapids; all are
portrayed with

BA SNCS eat ke individuality and
fidelity by means
which have the appealing merit of simplicity and directness.
The plates are perfect specimens of pictorial art. Each

one deserves, and, indeed, demands a frame.

II

THE PEREGRINE FALCON
el ile ak, YTdes

Bye RANGIS PIA TEE RLY, ER Cs:

Illustrated throughout with wonderful
photographs by the Author and C. J. King

Demy quarto, cloth, gilt. 5s, net, inland postage sd. extra.

in England—combines the salient facts of almost innumerable field notes,

written at the eyrie itself. It isa book that should appeal with irresistible
force to all true nature lovers. Many striking and unexpected facts were revealed to
the author as a result of unwearying patience in a diminutive hut slung from the
precipice of a lonely islet. These records are here set forth in a wonderful narrative
which discloses the life history of the Peregrine Falcon from the moment of its
hatching to the day it finally leaves the eyrie.

| bas fascinating book on the Peregrine Falcon—the grandest bird of prey left

‘“No one who wishes to know the most that has been learned about the Peregrine
Falcon can afford to neglect this work. The book reflects a high credit upon its writer’s
powers, patience, skill, and well-directed zeal in observation, and will be prized by everyone
who wishes to know how wild birds live.’’—The Times.

ANIMAL LIFE BY
(eri SRA-SsHOR E

BAG ee POULENGER, LIL.D,.DiSc., PH.D. FR S., FZ.S:
and C. A. BOULENGER, M.A., D.Sc., F.Z.S.

>

Large 8vo, cloth, gilt, 5/- net. By inland post 5/4.
Nearly 100 Illustrations.

HIS little book is a complete manual for the use of the amateur naturalist
at the sea-side. The authors—recognised authorities on the subject—
have themselves, in the past, experienced the want of such a guide, and in

clear and simple language they have endeavoured in this little volume to supply
the requirements of all who are interested in sea-shore zoology.

‘“ A scientifically reliable account of the innumerable forms of animal life that are to be

found on the beach or among the rocks. It does not waste words in its descriptions, and makes

an admirable vade-mecum to the amateur zoologist, who will find in it everything that he is
likely to want to know.’’—Scotsman.

12

THE

“Country Life” Library of Sport

IDColoiecyel Yay IelOWe W313 (Ge, ARE IO) Ah (GSO IN| TS) (OY INT

12/6 net each volume. By post 6d. extra.

A Series devoted to Sport and Pastime ; each branch being dealt with by the
most qualified experts on the subjects which they have made peculiarly their own

CRICKET With over 80 Illustrations taken from the most interesting of the
old cricketing prints. One Volume.

FISHING With Coloured Plates of Salmon and Trout Flies. Over 250 full-
page Illustrations and numerous diagrams. In Two Volumes.

SHOOTING The breeding, rearing and shooting of pheasants, partridges, and
wild duck. In Two Volumes.

BIG GAME SHOOTING With over 200 Illustrations from photo-

graphs, showing animals in their actual
habitat and natural environment. In Two Volumes.

POLO, PAST AND PRESENT 17he same is traced from its

cradle in Persia, many cen-
turies back, up to the present time. Profusely Illustrated. In One Volume.

Mr. Hutchinson and his colleagues have done their work thoroughly.’ —The Globe .

GOLF GREENS AND GREEN KEEPING

By HORACE G. HUTCHINSON.
Cheap Edition 5s. net. By post 5s. 4d.

‘‘The practical worth of the volume is nearly equal to the combined worth of all
the books that have been written on the theory and practice of golf.’-—Yorkshive Post.

T3

THE CENTURY BOOK OF GARDENING.

Edited by E. T. CooK. A comprehensive work for every lover of the
garden. 624 pages, with about 600 Illustrations, many of them full-
page Ato (12 in. by 83 in.). 21s. Net, by post 21s. 10d.

‘““No department of gardening is neglected, and the illustrations of famous
and beautiful gardens and of the many winsome achievements of the gardener’s
art are so numerous and attractive as to make the veriest cockney yearn to turn
gardener. If THE CENTURY Book oF GARDENING does not make all who see it
covet their neighbours’ gardens through sheer despair of ever making for them-
selves such gardens as are there illustrated, it should, at any rate, inspire everyone
who desires to have a garden with an ambition to make it as beautiful as he
can.’’— Times.

GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.

(A Handbook to the Garden). By E. T. Coox. With over 200
Illustrations, Plans, Diagrams, etc. Sixth Edition.

12s. 6d. Net, by post 12s. 11d.

‘« One cannot speak in too high praise of the idea that led Mr. E. T. Cook

to compile this GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS, and of the completeness and succinct-

ness with which the idea has been carried out. Nothingisomitted. . . . It

is a book that will be welcomed with enthusiasm in the world of gardeners.

a One only regrets that the book was not published years ago.’’— Morning
Post.

WALL AND WATER GARDENS.

With Chapters on the Rock Garden, the Heath Garden, the Paved
Water Garden, etc. By GERTRUDE JEKYLL. Containing instructions
and hints on the cultivation of suitable plants on dry walls, rock
walls, in streams, marsh pools, lakes, ponds, tanks, and water margins.
With over 200 Illustrations, Plans and Diagrams. Fifth Edition.
Large 8vo. 12s. 6d. Net, by post 12s. 11d.

‘‘ He who will consent to follow Miss Jekyll aright will find that under her
guidance the old walls, the stone steps, the rockeries, the pond, or streamlets
of his garden will presently blossom with all kinds of flowers undreamed of, and
become marvels of varied foliage.’’—Times.

COLOUR SCHEMES FOR THE FLOWER
GARDEN.

By GERTRUDE JEKYLL. With over 100 Illustrations and Planting

Plans. Third Edition. 12s. 6d. Net, by post 12s. 11d.

‘* Miss Jekyll is one of the most stimulating of those who write about what

may be called the pictorial side of gardening. . . . She has spent a lifetime

in learning how to grow and place flowers so as to make the most beautiful and

satisfying effects, and she has imparted the fruits of her experience in these
delightful pages.’’—Daily Mail.

TREES & SHRUBS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS.
By EB Ty Coo. 12s. 6d. Net, by post 2s. 11d.

“Tt contains a mass of instruction and illustration not always to be found
altogether when required, and as such it will be very useful as a popular hand-
book for amateurs and others anxious to grow trees and shrubs.’’— Field.

14

MY GARDEN. By Even PHILiports.
60 full-page Illustrations. 6s. Net, by post 6s. 4d.

“Tt is a thoroughly practical book, addressed especially to those who, like
himself, have about an acre of flower garden, and are willing and competent to
help a gardener to make it as rich, as harmonious, and as enduring as possible.
His chapters on irises are particularly good.’’—World.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

By GEORGE BUNYARD and OWEN Tuomas. 507 pages.

Size, 104 in. by 73 in. 12s. 6d. Net, by post 12s. 11d.
‘Without any doubt the best book of the sort yet published. There isa

separate chapter for every kind of fruit, and each chapter is a book in itself—

there is, in fact, everything that anyone can need or wish for in order to succeed

in fruit growing. The book simply teems with illustrations, diagrams, and

outlines.’’—Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society.

A GARDEN IN VENICE.

By F. Epen. An account of the author’s beautiful garden on the
Island of the Guidecca at Venice. With 21 Collotype and 50 other
Illustrations. Parchment, limp. 10s. 6d. Net, by post 10s. 10d.

‘‘ Written with a brightness and an infectious enthusiasm that impart interest

even to technicalities, it is beautifully and rarely pictured, and its material
equipment is such as to delight the lover of beautiful books.’’—Glasgow Herald.

THE DISEASES OF TREES.
By Proressor R. Hartic. Royal8vo. 10s. 6d. Net, by post 10s. 11d.

THE UNHEATED GREENHOUSE.
By Mrs. K. L. DAvipson. 5s. Net, by post 5s. 5d.

‘‘An infinity of pleasure can be obtained from the due use of an unheated
house built under proper conditions, and it is the function of Mrs. Davidson’s
book to provide hints and directions how to build such a house, and how to
cultivate the plants that can be cultivated with advantage without artifical
heat.’’—Pall Mall Gazette.

LILIES FOR ENGLISH GARDENS. [Ss. 10d.

Written and compiled by GERTRUDE JEKYLL. 8s. 6d. Net, by post

‘‘ LILIES FOR ENGLISH GARDENS is a volume in the Country Lire Library,
and it is almost sufficiently high commendation to say that the book is worthy of
the journal. Miss Jekyll’s aim has been to write and compile a book on Lilies
which shall tell amateurs, in the plainest and simplest possible way, how most
easily and successfully to grow the Lily.’’—Westminster Gazette.

CHILDREN AND GARDENS.

By GERTRUDE JEKYLL. A garden book for children. Thoroughly
practical and full of pictures. 6s. Net, by post 6s. 5d.

‘‘ Little bits of botany, quaint drawings of all kinds of things, pretty
pictures, reminiscences and amusements—why, it is a veritable ‘Swiss Family
Robinson ’ for the bairns, and we shall be surprised and disappointed if it is not
introduced into many hundreds of homes.’’—Liverpool Post.

ROCK AND WATER GARDENS

THEIR MAKING AND PLANTING.

With Chapters on Wall and Heath Gardens. By F. H. Meyer.
Edited by E. T: Coox. 6s. Net, by post 6s. 4d.

‘‘In this book the author has studied every detail of Nature’s ways in order
to reproduce in the garden the charms of natural scenery.’’—Standard.

SEASIDE PLANTING OF TREES & SHRUBS.

By ALFRED GaAuvT, F.R.H.S. . An iteresting and instructive book
dealing with a phase of arboriculture hitherto not touched upon. It
is profusely illustrated, and diagrams are given explaining certain
details. 5s. Net, by post 5s. 6d.

‘‘Mr. Gaut has accomplished a piece of very solid and extremely useful

work, and one that may not be without considerable influence upon the future
development of coast-side garden work and agriculture.’’—Liverpool Courier.

THE BOOK OF BRITISH FERNS.

By Cuas. T. Druery, F.L.S., V.M.H., President of the British
Pteridological Society. 3s. 6d. Net, by post 3s. 9d.

‘“The book is well and lucidly written and arranged; it is altogether
beautifully got up. Mr. Druery has long been recognised as an authority on
the subject.’’—St. James's Gazette.

GARDENING MADE EASY.

By E. T. Coox. An instructive and practical gardening book of
200 pages and 23 Illustrations, all showing the way certain garden
operations should be performed. It is the A.B.C. of gardening.

Is. Net. Cloth, 1s. 6d. Net, by post 3d. extra.

‘It contains a vast amount of information in easily understood language
that will be most helpful to persons who love to look after their own garden.’”’—
Scotsman.

ROSE GROWING MADE EASY.

By E. T. Coox. A simple Rose Guide for amateurs, freely illus-
trated with diagrams showing ways of increasing, pruning and pro-
tecting roses. ls. Net. Cloth, 1s. 6d. Net, by post 3d. extra.

“ . . . gives full and reliable information on everything connected with
the subject, and ought to be in the hands of every rose grower, be he an
amateur or an experienced gardener.’’—A berdeen Free Press.

THE ENGLISH VEGETABLE GARDEN.
By various Experts. Cheap Edition, 5s. Net, by post 5s. 6d.

‘* The book is of a thoroughly practical nature, and covers the whole ground
from the trenching of the land to the gathering of the produce, and, aided by
suitable illustrations, the writers have succeeded in furnishing a book which
will be of inestimable advantage to the enterprising private or market gardener
who would make the most of his resources.’’—Field.

16

FRUIT-GROWING FOR BEGINNERS.
A simple and concise handbook on the cultivation of Fruit. By F. W.
Harvey, F.R.H.S. 1s. Net. . Cloth, 1s. 6d. Net. Postage 3d. extra.

‘*An amazing amount of information is packed into this book.’’
—Evening News.

VEGETABLE GROWING MADE EASY.
A simple and concise handbook on the cultivation of Vegetables. By
OwEN Tuomas, F.R.H.S., V.M.H., and GEORGE WYTHES, F.R.HLS.,
V.M.H., and THE COOKING OF VEGETABLES by Mrs. FRANCES

KEYZER. ls. Net. Cloth, 1s. 6d. Net. Postage 3d. extra.
‘© A really valuable book.’’—The Lady.

POEMS. By Dorotuy Frances GurNEY. 5s. Net, by post 5s. 3d.

TOYS OF OTHER DAYS.
By Mrs. NEvitt JAcKson. Cheap Edition, 5s. Net. Edition de
Luxe, 21s. Net, by post 6d. extra.
‘‘ A noble and enchanting volume, full of research, and abounding in interest
to every lover of childhood and the youth of the world.’’—Standavrd.

ECONOMIES IN DAIRY FARMING.

An important Work on Dairying by Ernest MaTHEws (the well-
known Judge and Expert). 7s. 6d. Net, by post 7s. 10d.

‘‘ The author of this book is so well known among farmers, especially those
interested in the selection and judging of cows, that his name and experience
alone will go far to ensure that his views receive the attention they deserve. He
has for many years past been judge in all the most important butter tests which
have been held at our principal agricultural shows.’’—Jouvnal of the Bath and
West of England Society.

CAUSERIES ON ENGLISH PEWTER.

By ANTONIO DE NAVARRO, A book for all lovers of the Pewterer’s Art.
10s. 6d. Net, by inland post 11s.
‘Apart from the charm and value of the essays, there is a splendid collec-

tion of illustrations, giving rare and typical examples of all forms of domestic
and ecclesiastical pewter.’’—Manchester Courier.

PHOTOGRAPHY FOR BEGINNERS.
This is an instructive and practical book, worded clearly but non-

scientifically, for the tyro camera user.
ls. Net. Cloth, 1s. 6d. Net, by post 3d. extra.

‘. , a thoroughly practical and simply written manual, and is just
the book which the amateur needs to help him pleasantly over the many

difficulties which constantly afflict him in the early stages of his hobby.’’—
Glasgow Herald.

FRENCH HOUSEHOLD COOKING.

By Mrs. Frances Keryzer. Shows how simple and inexpensive is
the art of cooking as the French understand i.
ls. Net. Cloth, 1s. 6d. Net, by post 3d. extra.

‘‘There should be many readers for ‘ French Household Cooking’ by Mrs.
Frances Keyzer, who gives plainly and shortly a number of simple and inex-
pensive French recipes of an excellent and homely nature, and in no way beyond
the means or capability of a plain English cook who takes an interest in her work,”
—Daily Express.

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