American Mature

Group IV. Working with Nature

HARDY PLANTS FOR
COTTAGE GARDENS

BY

HELEN R. ALBEE

ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS

NEW YORK

HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY

COPYRIGHT, 1910,

BY
HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY

Published May, 1910

CONTENTS

PACK

IN THE BEGINNING !

AN INCIPIENT GARDEN n

THE GARDEN GROWS 18

MY AMBITION GROWS 27

WITHIN THE GARDEN WALLS 40

SEEDS 49

A DESCENT INTO PARTICULARS 68

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS 92

VICES or PLANTS 107

MINE ENEMIES 118

PHOTOGRAPHY OF FLOWERS 134

SOME GARDENERS I HAVE KNOWN 145

A DEDICATION 159

CLASSIFIED LISTS 161

White Flowers ' 165

Blue Flowers 210

Yellow Flowers 230

Pink Flowers 247

Red Flowers 272

INDEX 287

268710

iii

ILLUSTRATIONS

THE SITE OF THE GARDEN frontispiece

DIAGRAM OF THE GARDEN OF OBLIQUE SHADOWS i

THE WELL CURB 8

A DRY BED IN EARLY MAY 8

THE DRY BED IN JULY 10

A LILAC BUSH 10

THE OLD STONE WALL AND THE APPLE TREE * 14

A CORNER OF THE STONE HEAP 18

THE DEEPER You DIG, THE MORE ROCKS You GET OUT . . . 18

FRAME EDGINGS 20

THE ARBOR SEAT 20

MY EARLY HOLLYHOCKS 24

AN UNEXPECTED NOOK 24

THE PRODUCT OF FEMININE LABOR 29

A CHOICE OF WAYS 30

A GARDEN LINE MAKING FOR A SLOPE 30

A DOUBLE TERRACE 32

A BLUE AND WHITE CORNER * 34

A CLOUD OF INFANT'S BREATH GIVES GRACE TO THE GARDEN . . 36

A WAVE OF GARDEN HELIOTROPE 36

THE GARDEN COVORED WITH SNOW PRESENTS A SMOOTH, SLOPING,

UNBROKEN SURFACE 42

SNOW LIES LATE UPON THE BEDS IN SPRING 42

A CORNERSTONE OF HAPPINESS 44

A BIG STONE AND A LITTLE PATH 44

CLEMATIS TRAINED UP AS AN ENTRANCE GATE ........... 46

WHITE Physostegia Virginiana 46

A TANGLE OF MEADOW-RUE, WILD CLEMATIS AND HOP VINE ... 48

"THAT AWNING" 48

CHEESE CLOTH PROTECTION FOR ANNUALS 52

THE SAME ANNUAL BED IN AUGUST 52

THE NEW NURSERY BED SHELTERED BY A WALL AND TALL PEREN-
NIALS PLANTED ABOVE IT • 5^

* Illustrations marked by an asterisk are from photographs by William
Homes; all others are from photographs by the author.

v

vi Illustrations

PAGB

SHIRLEY POPPIES 58

WILD CARROT 74

JAPANESE CLEMATIS (Clematis paniculata) 76

VIRGINIA CREEPER AFTER AUTUMN PRUNING 76

A TERRACED DRIVEWAY * 78

Dianthus plumarius 82

GOUTWEED (JLgopodium varigata) AS A BORDER PLANT 82

Low BORDER PLANTS HIDE THE FRAME AND STONE EDGINGS TO THE

BEDS 84

AZURE BLUE LARKSPUR 86

LILAC P^ONY POPPIES 86

PINK CANTERBURY BELLS 88

A SEPTEMBER ROSE, MRS. JOHN LAING 88

SYRINGA BUSH 90

BOUNCING BET AND LILAC P/EONY POPPIES 90

VALUE OF TREES AS A BACKGROUND IN SUMMER AND A WINDBREAK

IN WINTER * 92

THE LANDSCAPE TOWARD THE EAST AS SEEN FROM THE GARDEN * 94

As SEEN FROM MY WINDOW * 96

A HEAVY BLANKET OF SNOW FALLS EARLY AND DISAPPEARS LATE 98

A BOUNTIFUL BED FULL OF VIGOROUS P^EONY POPPIES 98

GOLDEN GLOW AGAINST GRAY SHINGLES no

Hydrangea paniculata no

MEADOW-RUE 124

HOLLYHOCKS STRIPPED OF THEIR FOLIAGE BECAUSE OF RUST . . . 124

A HAZY DAY IN OCTOBER 138

THE DROPPING OF LEAVES MARKS THE PROGRESS NATURE MAKES 138
A CURVED WALK WITH TERRACED BEDS CUT OUT OF A SLOPE, SUG-
GESTED BY SHADOWS AT NIGHT 142

PORTION OF A BED SET WITH YOUNG SHRUBS FOR AUTUMN EFFECTS 142

LATE SEPTEMBER ANNUALS 148

WHITE FOXGLOVES 148

WHITE FLOWERS RECURRING LIKE A CHORUS IN A CONTINUOUS

MELODY 154

WILD WHITE DAISIES UNDER CULTIVATION 154

TABLET — "THE GARDEN OF OBLIQUE SHADOWS" 160

CHRYSANTHEMUM MAXIMUM 186

EARLY PINK COSMOS STILL BLOOMING IN OCTOBER 186

ARCTOTIS SOUTH AFRICAN DAISY (Arctotis grandis) ...... 200

SWEET SCABIOUS AND DOG-FENNEL 200

DIAGRAM

OF
GARDEN Or OBLIQUE SHADOWS

J*

DOTTED LINES INDICATE RISING LAND
BANK ON EITHER SIDE

i

HELEN R. ALBEE

ABOVE

BED CUT IN BANK

/ GARDEN LEVEL

/TERRACE BED 3 FT. HIGH

J I:

STONE WALL 3 FT
BED CUT IN BANK

WALK .

BED
ON LEVEL

000000 00'

WALL I'Z FT.

NE WALL «
)N BANK <

BED CUT ON
BANK

BCD 2 FT. BELOW LAWN
WALL

TABLET

LAWN 4 FT ABOVE MAIN GARDEN

HOUSE BACK 1 5 FT.

HARDY PLANTS FOR COTTAGE
GARDENS

IN THE BEGINNING

| HE impression made by certain garden books upon
the mind of a reader is that in America a success-
ful garden springs from the soil much as Minerva
did from the head of Jupiter. Opening wide his
wicket gate the author discloses hundreds of rosebushes bend-
ing under a perfumed burden; he points to shrubs of giant
height and multitudes of perennials, difficult to raise, that are
perpetually in bloom. Though the author may touch blithely
upon the possible disasters of the floral kingdom, they are
treated more as a matter of tradition than as a present evil;
his larkspurs show no blight, his hollyhocks are free from rust;
his lilies fail not from mites or drought. Apparently all is
smooth sailing from start to finish; yet we, who have dabbled
a bit with Nature, read with mixed emotions as we recall sea-
sons of despair over our own roses, lilies, larkspurs and holly-
hocks; for these wayward inhabitants of our garden have had
an unfortunate habit of contracting every known disease.
Other unhappy memories of defeat and loss rise up and
darken the page. Our humiliation is needless; for, in the
flush of success, authors have thoughtlessly omitted any men-
tion of mistakes.

The present volume is not an ambitious contribution to the
subject of floriculture; it is a faithful record of the ignorance,
repeated failures and disheartening losses that have attended

2 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

my effort to assemble in a limited area the choice varieties of
hardy shrubs, perennials and annuals offered by our best
nurserymen, and to arrange them so as to have a succession
of bloom of pure color in each separate bed throughout the
season. I am not so far removed from my mistakes as to have
forgotten the way to final success. That my garden blooms
and flourishes to-day is due wholly to indomitable perseverance
and untiring energy; for I represented the average woman,
who wants flowers but lacks knowledge and experience in
their culture. The average woman seldom knows what she
wants, and she has neither an unlimited purse nor a corps of
trained assistants at her command. While she hopes to ac-
complish great things with the aid of her one man-of-all-work
or perhaps none, she is bewildered by the array of scientific
names in the catalogues, for the florists make no concessions
to her ignorance by listing plants under their common names;
so, after a brief and unsatisfactory survey of catalogues, she
returns to her initial thought which has hovered about some
familiar flowers, dear from association; or, perhaps, if of
bolder spirit, something seen and admired in another's garden.
Whatever the original impulse is, it results almost invariably
in a few nasturtiums, marigolds, zinnias, or other easy, short
cuts to a mass of color.

If successful with these indestructible plants, her enthu-
siasm grows and she reaches out cautiously toward larger
operations; but with the best intentions at heart, there is much
that an ardent purpose will not supply; it is not enough to
know the botanical names of desirable plants — one must
know their manner of growth, height, time of blooming, exact
color, special requirements of soil and moisture, and a hun-
dred et ceteras of vital importance. Such has been my ex-
perience and I know the bitterness of defeated hopes, and
have seen summers culminate in failures due to my ignorance,

In the Beginning 3

and realized that months must elapse before I could remedy
the mistakes.

In fact my garden has been a natural growth of hardy con-
stitution, else it could not have survived the shocks it has re-
ceived. Planted in various latitudes, lying dormant years at
a time, it has suffered every phase of misfortune and neglect,
but has finally surmounted all difficulties and is now enjoying
a beautiful resurrection.

It is impossible to state when or where the germ was first
planted, but it must have germinated and have had a long tap
root at an early age; for, when six years old, in a burst of en-
thusiasm, I declared one day, "When I grow up I mean to
marry a gardener, then I shall have all the flowers I want, and
I shall have morning glories running over the stovepipes."
As our house was not rich in stovepipes — being heated by an
unpoetic furnace — it was evident that my imagination had
already begun to riot in unconventional freedom.

My florist propensities had scant opportunity in a city lot
filled with a number of fruit trees, inconceivably big to young
eyes. It is not a pleasure to recall my efforts to cultivate a
narrow strip of ground that lay between a high brick wall and
a six-foot board fence, unvisited by a ray of sunshine. I shall
not linger upon those years when I tried to bring a bit of the
woods into this north fern bed, where transplanted wild
flowers scarcely survived a season. I used to walk up and
down the narrow path looking wistfully for signs of my wild
flowers which seldom came up. Yet this was a growing season
for me; for unconsciously I learned the names and habits of
the flora of southern Ohio, and my love of nature was expand-
ing and thriving on starvation rations. Gradually I became
acquainted with many cultivated flowers, known to me only
through visits to greenhouses or in the gardens of neighbors
having a southern exposure and no fruit trees.

4 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

One thing I did not learn was, that you cannot trust to the
tender mercy of Providence when planting; so for years and
years I bought small packages of seeds, and in blind faith dug
little holes in the ground, which I watered intermittently; and
some of the holes came up — but most did not — and all was
vanity. Nor do I think this experience of mine, futile and
ignorant as it sounds, is rare among genuine lovers of flowers.
.They, as well as I, do not know how to go about it; and in con-
sequence, we see our ambitious plans fruiting in puny re-
luctant plants that reflect our neglect as plainly as the pro-
truding ribs of a starved horse proclaim the cruelty of its
owner. Both are pitiful to see, and deep is my repentance
over those past victims of misguided affection.

However, as I have said, through innumerable failures and
guilty of a thousand floricides, I came to learn that a flower
bed must be prepared, that seedlings must be protected from
frost, sun and drought and too much water; that plants must
be cared for and groomed daily, and that, if you do your part
faithfully, your prote*ge*s will surpass in growth and bloom the
most flattering promises of seed catalogues.

I shall never forget my first efforts to reform life-long er-
rors. I had married and was living in the country with un-
limited space and sunshine and ample leisure to gratify my
love of flowers. During the first two summers I followed the
old trick of tucking in a seed and bidding it God-speed — but
nothing sped. Then it was that Adam, who chanced to be an
illuminated edition of my early ideal — a gardener at heart,
though not by profession — suggested that a flower bed should
be prepared. I felt there was much hard-headed sense in his
remark, yet inwardly resented it.

"I have prepared it," said I, with the bland innocence of
a babe.

"How did you do it?" inquired he.

In the Beginning 5

"Oh," said I, "I dug it up, and made the earth light.
What more do you have to do?" and I showed him where I
had prodded the earth a little, perhaps three inches deep.

He did not answer, but smiled inscrutably. " I'll make the
bed ready for you," he said; and then began such elaborate
operations as I had never dreamed of.

It was around a huge boulder that the bed was to be made.
First he took an axe — a very dull one, to be sure; but I began
to see the varied and hitherto unsuspected uses of a whole row
of axes which hung neatly upon the barn wall — and made a
deep clean-cut line through the turf two feet distant from the
boulder. Making cross cuts a foot apart, he lifted the squares
of sod lightly with an implement called a spading fork, turned
them over to beat the loose earth from the roots, which soil he
assured me was too good to lose. Then he spaded the earth
fifteen inches deep, picking out every stone, then brought a
whole wheelbarrow load of well rotted manure, working it in
thoroughly, and added a bucketful of wood ashes, mixing it
with the soil.

I am ashamed to relate the amazement I felt at the great
care he was taking. " Do you have to do this with all flower
beds?" I asked with studied carelessness.

" If you want things to grow," answered he. Now if Adam
had been any other man he would have seized the opportun-
ity to instruct his wife on heiftmany dishonorable points of
ignorance; but, because it was he, I was, allowed to chew the
cud of reflection on past sins of omission and draw my own
inferences from former failures.

When the bed was smoothed and raked, and the loose earth
and stones removed from the grass, Adam stood off for the first
time to view his work, which restraint I think shows masculine
superiority. I have a fluttering way of stepping off at least
ten times while doing anything, just to see how well it looks.

6 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

I was very effusive in my praises; I realized what a valuable
lesson I had learned in agriculture as well as in the neat work-
manlike way a bed should be made.

The instruction was not lost. The next day I gathered all
sorts of tools together, chose an axe from the unlabelled col-
lection, and trundled them out on the lawn to make a bed for
myself. Everything was stubborn from the insubordinate
turf to the hard soil. Every time I put in my spading fork it
struck against stones. It was very hard unaccustomed work,
and I soon sat down to ponder the easy grace of the gardener's
movements the day before. I worked a little more and then
sat again, reflecting on the wisdom of the negro, who said,
" De sun am so hot, de cotton am so dry, and dis yer nigger
am so tired, I don' got a call ta preach."

At this moment Adam appeared, and everything went on
velvet wheels. Faint from fatigue, I was thoroughly dis-
couraged, and decided that if successful flower gardening in-
volved such labor, I should never attempt to play with that
graceful art. But my memory of fatigue is short-lived, and
before many days I began another bed, and again faltered;
and I noted that if I faltered at the critical moment when
Adam hove in sight, I had an able assistant at my command.
So by dint of a little work and the use of discretionary fatigue
I got a tidy bit of arable land under cultivation that summer,
and I learned to pluck at my tools quite handily. I had the
usual commonplace assortment of flowers, tall and dwarf
nasturtiums, the double and single African marigolds in lemon
and orange colors; but they made a respectable showing.

Following the curve of the driveway, we had set out old-
fashioned semi-double red Lancaster roses in a bed perhaps
a hundred feet long, and I alternated the above-named an-
nuals with the roses, so that there might be a succession of
bloom after the roses had fallen. This also was successful,

In the Beginning 7

and we might have gone on planting the common annuals and
extending our nine beds to an indefinite number, had not the
following year been one of great drought. I am not good at
remembering figures, but the toil of that summer burnt in two
numbers on my mind. For just thirty-five evenings Adam
and I dragged fifty buckets of water from the well to irrigate
our widely separated plantations. The rose bed, which was
several hundred feet from the well, required nine buckets of
water to give each struggler just a sip, on which we thought,
considering the season and our heroic efforts, that out of
common gratitude, the roses ought to have contrived to get
along. But they did not even try. There is no cooperative
spirit in flowers. They will not accommodate themselves to
your necessity, and be thankful for half loaves when there is
no bread. The only side-light of appreciation we got for our
pains came from our old Irish cook, who remarked to me one
day that "we made a pretty picture on the lawn," which was a
great concession, considering she had to launder my draggled
white frills and Adam's duck trousers. I tried to get what
comfort I could from the aesthetic side of our never-ending
labor, and when a trifle fagged, I would suggest to Adam,
"that we group ourselves for Marcella's benefit.'1

Vainly did we empty the well on the parched earth; thrice
did we plant some beds, nothing succeeded. At the end of the
summer we came across the most tragical little growths. In
clearing up a nasturtium bed, where aster seeds had also been
planted, I discovered a single wee anomalous plant about
three inches high, bearing a morsel of bloom less than half an
inch across; and this rarity proved to be an aster. I also
found morning glories with only two leaves, proudly bearing
a miniature terminal flower on its four-inch vine. Poppies
were mere threads of growth, with quarter inch flowers.
Everything had peaked and pined.

8 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

In consequence of this disastrous summer, I forebore fur-
ther planting of annuals for two years, and allowed several
beds to revert to grass, and filled the few we retained with
shrubs and native perennial flowers that would take care of
themselves. This ignominious compromise was bitter, for I
did not realize that the value of those abandoned beds was not
lost; that the discipline of heretofore unused muscles was a
permanent possession, and that, in gradually hardening my-
self, outdoor exercise had become a pleasure and a necessity.
A few flowers more or less were of no consequence compared
with this definite gain. Only a single bed remains of that re-
constructive era. It is one lying under the sitting room win-
dows, with a hot dry southern exposure. Next to the house
was planted a thick row of purple German iris which blooms
in May. A discreet number of pink cinnamon roses are al-
lowed to flourish at one end, and they bloom in June. In
front of the iris is a row of Helen flower, Helenium autumnale
superbum, which is nipped back when the plants are a foot
high to induce a low bushy growth; and in front of this rich
green background the yellow Rudbeckia alternated with
white Chrysanthemum maximum make a gorgeous showing
through July and August. By September these fade and are
cut away and the Helen flower breaks into a mass of golden
bloom, which is margined at the very edge of the bed by a low
thick border of the native immortelles with gray cottony
leaves and close heads of creamy white flowers. As a perma-
nent background the cottage walls are completely covered
with Virginia creeper, and when all else is gone, its flaming
red foliage is more decorative than any flower. The only
attention this bed requires is to dig in fresh compost in
the spring, and an occasional division and resetting of the
plants. The vine has to be pruned severely each autumn,
but nothing has to be watered; and for this slight care

THE WELL CURB

[P. 7]

A DRY BED IN EARLY MAY

[P. 8]

In the Beginning 9

we have a continual succession of brilliant color from May
until October.

Later we set out another permanent bed equally accom-
modating, with white lilacs as a background, and filled it with
hardy roses — rugosas, old-fashioned semi-double red roses,
the pink cinnamon, the white and pink Scotch, and the com-
mon blush roses; and as a border to them were planted al-
ternately sweet-william and purple iris. This gives a succes-
sion of bloom without a conflict of color, and beyond forking
over the earth and dividing the plants as they increase, this
bed takes care of itself; occasionally it is weeded and the grass
edge must be cut out.

As a beginning in shrubbery we planted syringa, white and
purple lilacs, snowball trees, Hydrangea paniculata, masses of
cinnamon roses, and wild roses brought up from the sea coast,
purple fringe, sumachs, young spruces and hemlocks, white
locust, mountain laurel, shad bush and native rhododendron.
By giving them deep mellow soil and a liberal mulching they
need no attention in the way of water, unless the summer be
exceptionally dry. Most of them spread from the root, and
can either be allowed to grow in clumps, or divided and reset,
to increase further. I like this way of enlarging one's stock;
there is a patriarchal flavor in having young families grow up
around the parent stock, in time to be set out as centers of
other communities. By gradual separation and extension one
can get beautiful masses without much labor or expense.

Meanwhile I had already begun to plant hollyhock seeds
everywhere. I say begun, because it grew to be a habit, and
when I had nothing else to do, I used to go out and drop a few
seeds in a new spot. This was nothing more or less than atav-
ism, for I had not entirely escaped my old desultory methods.
Yet the results were good, owing to Adam's careful fertilizing,
and before long I had quantities of young plants that were set

io Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

out permanently to bloom the succeeding year; and they have
continued to bloom ever since increasingly in geometric ratio.
You cannot have too many hollyhocks, provided they are deli-
cate pink and pure cardinal red in the single, semi-double
and double varieties. Kind neighbors are only too glad to
share the burden of caring for them, and an oversupply of any
choice plant often leads to interesting exchanges. Before I
had a real garden and a consequent enlargement of heart, I
used to think the matter of exchange very small business.
This doling out seeds or young plants and getting others in
return was too much like dickering, and I frowned upon the
whole proceeding. But there came a time when flowers bore
a new aspect, and nothing now gives me greater pleasure than
to have a friend present me with her favorite flower, which
ever after is associated with her. The more things I have
planted in this way, the dearer has my collection become; and
to-day I go through my garden and tell over these offerings,
linking them with affectionate thoughts of the givers, much
as the pious nun tells off her beads to the various saints. More
than this, when the gift has been bulbs or plants that require
resetting, the bond is so strong that those who sent them
seem to hover near and companion the hours devoted to
planting the contributions of friendship.

But, as the too loquacious novelist of the last century used
to say when he brought his froward pen to an abrupt pause—
this is anticipating.

THE DRY BED IN JULY

[P. 8]

A LILAC BUSH

[P. 9l

AN INCIPIENT GARDEN

S I have related, the indiscriminate spotting of the
lawn with flower beds big, little, long, round and
square continued during several seasons, and I
look upon it as the Dark Ages, during which flori-
culture made no progress. I wearied of the narrow limitations
imposed by a few shrubs. I hungered for flowers and color,
though each new experience convinced me of the wisdom of
confining myself to durable nasturtiums, marigolds, and
ever more nasturtiums — they being the only flowers that
survived the droughts that yearly doomed us. That sin-
gle wizened aster decided me that asters were not for me,
nor cosmos, poppies, cornflowers and many other hard-
ridden favorites.

Then there came a pause in a peculiarly severe winter that
housed us for months, that piled the snow almost to the tops of
certain windows, a winter which cut one off from all past ex-
periences and left him like a new-born babe, open to new in-
fluences. At first when the wind roared down the chimneys,
and rattled our doors and windows, and made merry with
drifting the snow still higher toward the eaves, I took refuge
in the atlas. Thumbed were the pages bearing the maps of
semi-tropical countries; worn were the margins where pink
and yellow sun-kissed islands bask in turquoise seas. I was
on intimate terms with a hundred sheltered nooks in many
climes, and all open to a southern exposure. Adam confided
to me that he hoped by another winter that we could go to the
Equator where he meant to have a house right on the Line,

iz Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

with the front door opening to the north and the back door to
the south of it.

It was at this juncture that several of those much-maligned
seed catalogues came to Adam, who prudently buys his vege-
table seeds during the month of February, before the spring
rush comes. Idly turning over its pages, my eyes struck two
familiar names — Ageratum and Agrostemma. In an instant
I was carried back ten years, when, one summer, in Minnesota
I undertook gardening on the alphabetical basis (just as the
Peterkins were instructed in foods) and I got no further than
the A's, so interesting was the initial letter of the alphabet.
The A's always have the advantage, much as the first vol-
umes of Grote's "History of Greece" show wear and finger-
marks that entirely disappear when the twelfth volume is
reached.

In that remote time I had read the A's with enthusiasm, and
as none of the names was familiar, it is small wonder that my
fancy was captivated with these words; " Ageratum — effective
plants for bedding, covered with bloom throughout the sea-
son." Surely that was the plant for me! Hear also, "Agro-
stemma— Attractive, free-flowering perennials of easy culture
and excellent for cutting." Attractive? It not only at-
tracted, but caught me at first sight. I bought both, dug
little graves for both, visited them at increasing intervals, as
those do who are careless of their dead, and then quite forgot
them. No, not quite; because for years after I used to specu-
late about their fate; had they come up ? What did they look
like? I had never found out. Now here was a chance for an
intelligent settlement of that ten-year old question. I'd buy
them, and watch. So I browsed on; not only the A's but every
letter in the alphabet was rich in treasures. If the A's
bloomed throughout the season, the B's were "an unrivaled
strain saved from the best selected blooms of the finest hy-

An Incipient Garden 13

brids;" the C's were characterized by "richness of color and
profusion of flowers" — and so on with undiminished eloquence
to Z — Zinnia, where my intoxicated eyes caught "one of the
finest plants . . . commence to bloom in June and continue
throughout the season . . . require little care . . . any
common garden soil . . . prize strain . . . unsurpassed.'*
Ah ! here was a fulfilment of a life-long desire; here were quan-
tities of lilies that toiled not, and nobody had to toil; no more
fifty buckets of water at night; no more digging and manuring
beds two feet deep; " any common soil" would do. Had I not
the grower's word for it ? and we had a hundred acres of just
such soil needing zinnias to hide the poverty-stricken grass
that grew in segregated clumps over our barren hill-top. What
cared I for snow-drifts, for howling winds, and 20° below zero
weather ? Airily I spent my days on the lawn (in my mind)
gently plucking flowers that never grew less than two feet
high and eight inches across. The sun shed only a soft genial
warmth; the sky was always blue, except when it showered
agreeably. I was in the gardener's Paradise, and had a glori-
ously happy time; and my lists grew.

One day, when looking out of the window, it occurred to me
that, with so many prospective treasures, I ought to have a
garden to plant them in. Surely a garden — not patches on
the lawn; a garden where some day perhaps I could walk, and
I resolved if that day ever came, I shouldn't go trailing long
drabbly white garments about damp walks in the dreamy ab-
stracted fashion of damsels such as artists have loved to paint;
for my garden was going to be damp, perpetually damp,
walks and all; it would have to be if it bore those eight-inch
flowers. And thus did I go on planning the garden that Eve
should make. Why not take the very spot before my eyes?
Was it not sheltered on the north by a high stone wall and
apple trees, that, at the proper moment, should form a pic-

14 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

turesque background for — just what would be the correct
foreground did not occur to me at that instant. Sub rosa let
me confide that the foreground has been and continues to be a
perplexing problem, for under the shade of the trees the tall
pink hollyhocks, foxgloves and sweet williams planted there
have a shifty method of drying up in a time of famine, though
for two seasons they were beautiful, yet not quite coincident
with apple blooms; so I have come to regard the old stone
wall as a permanent background to the general garden, height-
ened by the green of the apple trees and the bed itself is little
more than an experiment-station where I test the endurance
of plants.

Further: — was there not a fine tangle of grape-vine that
needed a reconstructing hand to weave it through the boughs
for a natural arbor over a stone seat that could be built in the
corner, and a dozen yards more of it used as a covering for the
rustic fence to be made on the west side ? Surely less charms
than a stone wall, overhanging apple-trees, a grape-vine, a
possible arbor and a stone seat — later found to be a great
promoter of rheumatic joints, because it was so shady
that it never got quite thawed out in summer — have de-
cided more momentous questions than a garden site. In
ten minutes I laid out more work than I accomplished in a
whole year.

Immediately I set to work with a large sheet of paper in
front of me for diagrams, my seed catalogues on the right —
for I had foreclosed and taken possession of all current and
past issues of the seedsmen — seeds in packages piled up on my
left, and doubly flanked on every side by seed lists — Cornelia-
and-her-jewels fashion. These same books, lists and pack-
ages became my intimate companions. The daily paper
would be found under them; they strewed tables and chairs;
they preempted couch and floor space. I arranged and rear-

An Incipient Garden 15

ranged the magical names upon diagrams until frequent era-
sures compelled fresh ones — and all the time I was learning
a little about flowers.

Impatiently did I wait for the tardy coming of spring, and
the subsidence of the snow was marked by Mount Ararat ap-
pearing in its usual place on a slope about fifty feet from the
house. As the snow melted, I made a painful discovery. It
was true that the spot I selected and diagramed at least
twenty times had a protecting stone wall, also, apple-trees
overhanging, also — a grape-vine — also it was not the smooth
inviting hollow my fancy had pictured, but a dump heap for
boulders and rocks, big and little, that had been unloaded
there for years with a view to filling up the swale that lay be-
tween the two slopes, one of which fell away from the house,
the other rising across this natural runway; also — countless
wild blackberry and red raspberry bushes, hardback and
other tough shrubby growths that had become deep rooted
among the rocks. This crescendo of difficulties lacked noth-
ing to complete my discomfiture. When the snow lay five feet
deep it was a smooth undulating stretch. How had I hap-
pened to forget these insuperable conditions ? I grew lower
in mind, but said nothing. One bright Sunday morning when
the sun shone as all suns should shine on prospective gardens,
I bade Adam go forth with me. I sat him down on the bank
still soggy with the winter storms, and said, as collectedly
as I could: "Well, what do you think of it?"

"Think, " he repeated slowly, a way he has when he wants
to gain time and is about to say something that he knows will
be disagreeable to me.

"Yes," said I a trifle impatiently, recognizing how gently
he was about to slay my pet plan, and anxious to have it over.
"This is the spot I have chosen for the garden. What do you
think of it?"

16 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

"I don't think anything of it; it's impossible," said
he. "Rocks — brambles, you can't make a garden out of
them."

For a brief moment his denial shook my confidence; but a
cherished hope is long-lived, and thrives amidst thorny ob-
stacles.

"It is pretty discouraging," I urged, "but what of all my
plans — my dreams — my charts ? I can't give it up. Nowhere
else is there a stone wall with a grape-vine and trees in happy
propinquity."

Then he turned a full masculine gaze upon me. "You
ought to have known there were rocks there and bushes; there
are plenty of places, why choose the hardest possible spot on
the farm?"

" Oh yes," pleaded I, " plenty of spots, but not garden spots.
I don't want to go about digging any more holes in the ground
at random. I want to decide on a place already selected by
Nature as a favorable location, and build up where she has
begun. The very size of these bushes proves the fertile con-
ditions," I urged, laying desperate hold upon the most obvious
impediment and bending it neatly to my argument. " This
is the only suitable place on the entire farm. Besides, it is
not only near the house and the well, but it has natural ad-
vantages and features," and I glibly enumerated them again,
forgetting that for weeks I had talked of little else than of a
certain stone wall, grape-vine and apple-tree.

He looked sceptically about him. " I've heard of them be-
fore, and if you like the idea of that grape-vine, and stone wall
and apple-tree, why not enjoy them just as they are? why
tangle them up with the garden question? My advice is,
don't make yourself any unnecessary work; any place will
do." Here he arose, and paused; "I'm sorry for your disap-
pointment, but you must surely see for yourself that it is

An Incipient Garden 17

wholly impossible. It's too damp to stay here any longer,"
and he strolled away.

Finding myself weakened under the force of his arguments,
I chose another adviser — my pretty maid with golden brown
hair and rose leaf cheeks, to whom I had daily confided my
accumulating dreams.

"Mollie — come here — sit down," and down she sat obedi-
ently. "This is it," said I waving an authoritative hand in
the direction of the tree and grape-vine, ignoring rocks and
brambles. "This is IT. My good Adam says it is impossi-
ble; what do you think?"

She looked not at the difficulties, but like a true woman she
spoke. "Do you want it?"

"I do," replied I fervently.

"Then I'd have it," quoth she.

And thus it came to pass that a certain well-beloved spot is
bounded on the north by a stone wall and a background of
trees, on the east by a rising slope upon which open my cham-
ber windows, on the south by the full sunshine, and on the
west by another rising slope beyond which stretch forest trees.
Never was there a more favored nook, free from early and late
frosts, moist from the depression made by the swale that runs
between the banks, forming a natural waterway to carry off
the winter snows, sheltered from the wind in every direction.1

i See Frontispiece — The Site of the Garden.

THE GARDEN GROWS

T is one of the blessed compensations that we can-
not recall pain once experienced, we cannot sum-
mon the fear that once paralyzed us. All our past
is insulated by varying degrees of forgetfulness.
Now, after eight years when I stand at the edge of my small
world, it is difficult to recover the alternating moods of en-
thusiasm and despair, the high hopes of each new day and the
utter fatigue and discouragement at night — when I attacked
that stone heap. Be it remembered, however, that I had been
housed most of the winter by five feet of snow on the level,
that for months my feet had tingled to get out on the solid
earth, and my hands, being normal hands, longed to pull and
tug at something. Moreover, I was fired by a holy zeal; yet
if this recital is to be wholly truthful, I must state, that, having
gathered a crowbar, a hoe, a pickaxe, a grubbing hoe, a shovel,
a sickle and a potato digger into a wheelbarrow, I paused
with sinking heart when I wheeled my cargo to the stone heap.
I felt the need of more tools!

I had decided to recover twenty-five feet square of the
waste, and my original idea was to dig out the bushes from
between the rocks, remove the larger rocks, levelling off the
others, and then have several cartloads of good rich soil
dumped on the twenty-five foot area, and mark out my beds.
My experience is that nothing affords such violent mental
gymnastics as an original idea. It never works; yet one clings
to it like a drowning man to a plank; and if you can conceive
of the drowning man trying to nail a few more planks to his

18

A CORNER OF THE STONE HEAP

IP- i5]

THE DEEPER You DIG, THE MORE ROCKS You GET OUT [P. 19]

The Garden Grows 19

slender hold on life, you have my position exactly. I hold on
to an idea with a death grip, and by attaching to it all sorts
of incongruous compromises, it materializes in a form never
conceived; which proves that original ideas are vital organ-
isms, and follow their own mode of development, and you
meekly trail on behind. I used to think my failure with origi-
nal ideas was due to an excess of imagination. I now believe
it is due to gross ignorance of the laws that govern the mental
world. This enterprise proved a shining example of the
phoenix form such an idea takes from the ashes of one's plans.
For many years the rock heap had been the dumping
ground for coarse rakings of manure and small stones from
the flower beds, mulch from the vegetable garden, clippings
of grass from the lawn and dead leaves. These had decayed
and made a rich black compost. Hence, the tilling of a stone
heap is a very different matter from tilling the average New
Hampshire soil. In the former, the deeper you dig, and the
more stones you get out, the more light rich earth you have;
while in the ordinary soil the deeper you dig and the more
rocks you get out, the bigger the hole left. I think I come
close to the truth when I say our average land runs a bushel of
rocks to a pint of earth; and as for the quality of the earth, the
less said, the better it is for the reputation of New Hampshire
farms. Let it be understood that I am generalizing from a
single example, which is said to be the prerogative of genius.
When conversation flags in our household, I can always radi-
ate a genial heat by introducing casually the topic of the na-
tive soil. Adam rises to it like a fish to a fly, and one would
think we were Government experts, the way we fling our sta-
tistics. In his loyalty he declares New Hampshire raises more
corn to the acre than any State in the Union. This is met
with scorn; the great Western States are cited; but Adam ut-
terly disclaims the possibility of a yield of a hundred bushels

20 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

to the acre, nor seventy, no, nor forty; perhaps twenty-five
would represent the actual figures. Somehow this conversa-
tion, oft repeated with interesting variations, reminds me of
Lot pleading with the Almighty for the salvation of Sodom,
and the numerical results closely resemble each other. I like
Adam's sincere defense of a lost cause; it is a strong guarantee
of domestic fidelity, even if he does call me Miss Ipse Dixit
before we get through. If it were not for the rocks and native
soil and a yearly drought thrown in for good measure, a gar-
dener could loaf most of the time in this region.

The first few days proved I was still an amateur. I would
dig out a bush here, heave a rock there, shy little stones to-
ward a deep unfilled hole in the corner until my hands were
worn down to the quick; but of good honest systematic work
there was none. I very much needed a boss; but Adam had
evidently decided not to interfere with my education; and he
also knew, that, when possessed with an idea, I am apt to grow
a little heady. So he wisely absented himself, though I knew
he was always within hailing distance in his own garden, and
was only waiting to be summoned. The deep deposit of black
soil found between the rocks was like striking a vein of metal,
and I speedily decided that life was not long enough to dig
over the entire area; that I had better abandon the plan of
covering the stones with earth, that it was easier to lay out the
beds at once and confine mining operations within their
limits. From necessity I had to reinforce my deepening shafts
by enclosing them with strong wooden frames, and this is how
it happens that my beds are bounded by box ( ?) edgings — an
ugly device, but cheaper than brick. Within these enclosures
I dug down about eighteen inches and after the stones were
removed, I had perhaps eight to ten inches of mellow black
earth. The beds were then filled to the top of the board edg-
ings with a mixture of the top soil of Adam's vegetable gar-

FRAME EDGINGS

[P. 20]

THE ARBOR SEAT

[P. 21]

The Garden Grows 21

den — some of it being coaxed, and some quietly appropri-
ated— wood ashes, leaf mold from the woods, sand and
manure. I had a man place the larger boulders in the corner,
where the long-talked-of seat was made, and the smaller ones
I laid up in a low wall on two sides. This was another com-
promise with the original idea. I had intended to have the
stones hauled away — just where was not clear, but some-
where. But this use of them as boundary walls proved a much
easier solution; and from this first makeshift disposition of the
stones came the later construction of the garden walls, which
are not only one of the chief beauties of the garden but have
proved to be of the greatest value to me. Of these walls I
shall speak more at length later. A rustic fence on two sides
was made from young spruces from our woods, the vine was
woven through the boughs of trees into an arbor over the stone
seat, and finally everything was in readiness for planting my
seeds. Measured by the labor expended on bushes, boulders,
the rustic fence and preparing the compost, the twenty-five-
foot garden was enormous; but when enclosed by walls on
three sides, it shrank to the size of a postage-stamp. I con-
soled myself with the thought that everything is dwarfed when
measured by Nature's yardstick. Her areas are so vast that
the ground plans for the most spacious house become aston-
ishingly small when staked out.

When I came to follow the diagrams made for sowing seeds,
I saw that too many things had been crowded into a small
space, and though the plans were followed in a way, I hap-
pened upon a much safer method of distribution, that I still
use, which is to scatter the packages of seed over the allotted
ground, and when the bed is thus apportioned, one can better
judge how much space should be given to each variety.

I planted five and twenty varieties of seeds, but recall only a
few of them, and these are remembered chiefly for their mis-

22 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

conduct. The evil that we do lives after us. The early cos-
mos quoted as three feet high was given the whole length
down the middle of a bed; but in my virgin soil it grew ovei
five feet, and when a long rainy season occurred while it was
in full flower, it leaned over and completely blocked one of
my paths; and I let it do so, because I did not know any better.
I never thought of stakes in those days. The pentstemon, a
gift, grew lustily, and when September arrived with no visible
bloom I thought it wise to look up its credentials, and found
that while it was very desirable, it was a tender perennial. As
I knew nothing of shielding delicate constitutions from our
northern severities, its place knew it no more after that first
summer of green promise. I had been attracted by the high
praise given to the Nicotiana affinis, and I planted a whole
paper of seeds, watered and watched them advance from their
first seed leaves. Occasionally I questioned why the nicotiana
appeared all over the plot, but thought it was due to the scat-
tering of seeds by the birds, that sat daily on my rustic fence to
fly down during my absence and nip off the heads of the blue
annual larkspur. This was a vague inference about the cause
of the decapitated heads that were found on the ground until
the cosmos grew over the walk like the leaning tower of Pisa,
and further access to the larkspur was cut off. So I went on
in bland ignorance, and fingered the woolly leaves of my nico-
tiana, and by September I began to wonder why there was no
bloom.

One day I had a visitor, a young woman of prompt and
ready action, who had made a special study of botany. She
looked patronizingly on my bit of cultivated rock heap with its
fading beauty, while I apologetically set forth my plans for an
extension another year. She suddenly made a dive and
plucked out one of my nicotianas and tossed it aside.

"Why what are you doing?" cried I in dismay.

The Garden Grows 23

"You don't want these weeds in your garden; why here's
another — they are all over the place."

"Yes," said I proudly, "those are my nicotianas; they are
doing well, but for some reason they won't bloom."

The Botany girl laughed. " Nicotiana! mullein! — and you
have been tenderly growing mulleins all summer?" and she
tore out another handful with deadly precision.

I respected her knowledge, for she had just received her
degree, yet I was distressed and unconvinced. "Are you
sure? do you know nicotiana?" I questioned, pointing to the
label clearly bearing the name of the row.

" You had better ask if you know mullein," and she laughed
again, and tweaked out the last vestige of my woolly plants.

She was right, and to this day, not quite certain of the differ-
ence, I grow a certain number of mulleins in the fond belief
that they are nicotiana, in spite of the fact that the first mul-
lein leaves, before the tiny inner ones begin to show, are
slightly crenate or scalloped at the edges, while nicotiana has
an entire edge and much smoother leaf; otherwise I still hold
they resemble each other quite needlessly. The delightful
fragrance of the latter and its beautiful flowers are somewhat
offset by their being closed through the day, except in very
dull weather, and the plant is infested by the potato-bug. I
had an abundance of delicious wall flower, ten weeks stock and
pansies. Everything flourished — plants, cutworms, grubs,
moles, but of these I sing later. The hollyhock seeds planted
along one side by the rustic fence made a famous growth.
They sent down deep roots among the rocks below and
bloomed vigorously the second year.

Each year yields a moment of pure joy. The first occurred
when a friend stepped down into my small domain to view
things. He sniffed delightedly.

"What is it that smells so good? It is delicious," and he

24 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

stooped over the stock. "No, it is not that," and he smelt of
the wallflower. " No, what is it ? It recalls to me the delight-
ful memories of childhood."

Now there is no more delicate compliment that a man can
pay a woman than to tell her that something she has or does
restores that happy time. I fairly bristled with pride.

He hovered an instant over the mignonette, sweet peas,
white petunias and pansies, no — it was none of these, nor boy
love nor sweet alyssum. Then he picked up a rosy-cheeked
apple, one of the many that clutter up my walks each sum-
mer— a phase not included in my inventory of charms when
deciding on the site of the garden. "Ah, this is a part of it,"
he exclaimed softly. Then he stood up and turning slowly
around he tried to concentrate all his senses in his nose. The
fragrance was penetrating and sweet. "It is the garden!"
said he at last, and he was so pleased with the solution that I
almost expected that he would tell me that I reminded him of
his mother.

The next climax of satisfaction came during the second
year of my campaign. I was making an extension, which
meant that a slope rising both ways had to be dug out, and the
earth redistributed. That is the most that men ever do: they
never actually make anything. They dig out a bit here, and
fill up there; they cart matter from one place to another, but
they neither add to nor substract a jot from the original sub-
stance of creation.

I was in the act of redistributing, and I did not know that
Adam had been watching the manful way I clove the bank
with my pickaxe, and then tossed brimming shovelfuls of
earth into the wheelbarrow, thoroughly enjoying the exercise
of my strength.

" Haven't you an Irish ancestor somewhere in your family ?
You dig like a Paddy."

MY EARLY HOLLYHOCKS

[P. 23]

AN UNEXPECTED NOOK

[P- 25]

The Garden Grows 25

Never has praise from any lips so rejoiced my heart as this
unexpected tribute.

The third moment came two years later when a very skilful
amateur gardener made me an afternoon visit. We talked
intelligibly without the need of an interpreter. She knew
candytuft and Dianthus without being told; also spoke under-
standingly of the deeper mysteries of Physostegia, Stokesia,
Boltonia, Euphorbia corrolata, things representing the higher
education in a garden.

By and by she slipped away from my side, and while I was
prattling on with an ordinary denizen of this lower world, she
threaded her way through the paths from terrace to terrace.

"How delightful your garden is," said she on her return.
"You can really walk in it, and how many charming, unex-
pected nooks and corners you have!"

Sweet is the praise of a friend. Had I not cherished in my
heart for years this privilege of walking in my garden ? not
merely stepping down into it and out again, and seeing the
whole at a glance as I did the first year, but take a leisurely
stroll from bed to bed, from one elevation to another, and
choose which way one should go. Her words touched the
tenderest depth of my aspiration.

I was much impressed that first summer with the total lack
of dignified reserve that exists in the floral world. The riot-
ous way that self-respecting flowers, with centuries of culti-
vated ancestry behind them, hobnobbed dver the rustic fence,
was a scandal. The raspberry bushes, still left in the un-
claimed territory, leaned over the wall and dallied with the
cosmos. The climbing nasturtiums, which were supposed to
make a decorous barrier between the sheep and goats, lost
their reserve and got into many disgraceful entanglements
with the tramps outside. The bindweed and wild buckwheat
vines found ready admission to the select society of African

26 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

marigolds and stock, and established the most intimate rela-
tions. Both inside and outside my walls was a spirit of jovial
fellowship. But the most immoral thing in the garden was
a hop vine, perfectly incapable of self-support, ready to at-
tach itself to any object. I found it one day twining like a boa
constrictor around a tall grass stalk. Such shameful depend-
ence upon any frail support at hand will, ultimately and in-
evitably, lead hop vines, when they reach the human stage, to
look to their wives for maintenance.

I fostered an unnecessary grief that first summer. I was
so happy in the plenitude of bloom, that I was ready to order
mourning in advance of the sad day when the frost should de-
stroy the beauty. Gentle melancholy darkened many an Au-
gust day with the anticipated sorrow. But Nature has a kind
way of alleviating many of our griefs. Before the frosts
came, almost all my annuals — I had little else that summer —
had run their race and wore a frowsy, jaded look, and I was
thankful when, at last, a sharp frost added the finishing
stroke, so that, with a clear conscience, I could tear up the
withered stalks and throw them over the wall to make a deeper
compost among the rocks outside. The need of removing
each plant as it faded had never occurred to me, for most of
the garden faculties of my mind were still dormant.

MY AMBITION GROWS

TONG before the first summer was over I felt the
need of more room. The twenty-five-foot area
was but a narrow chrysalis shell, and I determined
to spread my wings another season. Then, too,
I did not like the things that went on in that impenetrable
jungle outside the walls. Almost any hour of the day one
could hear strange noises within its depths, rustling sounds,
fugitive glimpses of snakes, chipmunks and red squirrels. In
October I cleared a new piece about twenty-five feet by forty
of rocks and bushes, and looked upon the daily exercise as an
outdoor game rather than work. I had learned to use my
tools more intelligently; the shovel more often replaced my
threadbare hands in removing earth; occasionally I remem-
bered to put on gloves.

It has been my privilege recently to read how a lady con-
ducts herself in a garden, and I now see how I have defied
every convention in the matter of garden etiquette. The book
must have been written at a time when damsels were addicted
to tight lacing and swoons, for the author apologizes grace-
fully for the lady who wants to garden, -and her advice is ob-
viously to give courage to a feeble sisterhood.

"It must be confessed," writes my English authority, "that
digging appears, at first sight, a very laborious employment,
and one peculiarly unfitted to small and delicately formed
hands and feet;" and then, after a careful explanation of the
way mere man performs the operation, she continues; "A
Jady with a small light spade, may, by repeatedly digging over

27

28 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

the same line, and taking out only a little earth at a time, suc-
ceed in doing with her own hands all the digging that can be
required in a small garden, the soil of which, if it has been in
long cultivation, can never be very hard or very difficult to
penetrate; and she will not only have the satisfaction of seeing
the garden created, as it were, by the labor of her own hands,
but she will find her health and spirits wonderfully improved
by the exercise, and by the reviving smell of the fresh earth."
Was ever hard labor so delicately sugar-coated ? with all my
errors of judgment I never took a homeopathic view of the
relation between earth and tools.

I feel like a hoyden when I recall my energetic efforts, the
farm shovel, the pickax, the thirty-five-pound crowbar. I
have no extenuating "as it weres" in my record. It is a clear
and undeniable charge upon my past that I did actually
create my garden from a stone heap — not from " land under
long cultivation." I am a barbaric Amazon; but what can be
expected of one with a probable Irish ancestor except a wild
outbreak of rude strength in unguarded moments, when
wrestling with virgin soil.

Further: the lady's proper weapon is a spade "smooth,
sufficiently slender for a lady's hand to grasp, of close elastic
wood," only "tolerably strong" — evidently no lady is ex-
pected to expend her precious strength, provided she has any,
on garden operations — "one that shall penetrate the ground
with the least possible trouble." Still further : " A lady should
have a pair of stiff leathern gloves or gauntlets to protect her
hands not only from the handle of her spade, but from stones,
weeds, et cetera which she may turn over with the earth, and
which ought to be picked out and thrown into a small light
wheelbarrow which may be easily moved from place to place."

Surely this picture of sweetness and light quite shames me.
This is the way true femininity conducts itself in the presence

My Ambition Grows 29

of rocks, soil and weeds; and as a guarantee that this is a real,
and not a fancy sketch, the lady's hand, that makes but a
pleasant mockery of toil, is pictured gently extended, clothed
to the elbow with her stout leathern gauntlet — as I recall
mine, they were mostly either in the barn or sunning them-
selves on a distant rock — and in her hand is something that
looks like a composite growth of
all the garden, thus proving that
feminine labor lightly pursued
is productive. And the Lady's
wheelbarrow, duly portrayed on (
the next page, is the triggest, nat-
tiest little toy ever offered for sale.
Then the author tells you the
angle at which to thrust in your spade, how to use your
strength, how to raise the earth on the spade — all of
which she says "may be done with ease." She evidently
measures the human chain by its weakest link, and after
saying that "so few ladies are strong enough to throw
earth from a heap," she tells how the feeble can make a
profitable compromise, and achieve the same results by a
strategic use of her tools. I do not know what would have
happened if I had used these dainty super-refined methods.
It took brawn and pluck and plenty of it to prepare my land.
In vain do I scan my authority for some hints regarding how a
lady should act when she strikes among the et ceteras a rock
several feet across, or finds her garden line escaping from the
"soil under long cultivation" and making straight for a slope
that has not been tilled since the nebular period of our globe.
What sort of a compromise shall she make with her shovel so
that the increasing pile of earth, dug out of an ever rising and
extending bank, shall deposit itself on the further side of a ter-
race wall; and is the lady's wall to be made by sundry stones

30 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

evaporating from the general heap and wafting themselves
into place ? The voice of the silent past answers not, and I am
forced to the conclusion that no lady would attempt such a
project, or she, who does undertake it, cannot be of gentle
rearing. These doubtful imputations do not trouble me much,
even though the garden I possess is mine solely through the
conquest of just such impossible conditions.

Winter set in before the work was done, and again I re-
sorted to the catalogues and botanies as my chief literature.
I did not exactly distrust the glowing accounts of the seeds-
men: I wanted corroboration; and when I found the impartial
Asa Gray, who seldom raises his scientific admiration to the
heat of adjectives, quoting any plant as "handsome,"
"showy," or "cultivated in choice gardens," immediately
that gem went on my list. Neglected was the atlas; warm
sun-kissed islands had no attraction; the foot-rule, blank sheets
of paper, spread out on a lapboard, a rapidly decreasing
eraser, gave full occupation until January, when I sent off for
fifty varieties of annual and perennial seeds. I prudently
limited myself to those not costing more than ten cents per
package. I bought also two hundred Neponset paper flower
pots, that come in all sizes, and take the place of the more
perishable earthen pots at one third their price. Each acts as
a guardian angel to the seedling raised in it; for, in trans-
planting, the pot may be turned over a plant to shield it from
the sun, and it also gives protection from any untoward frost
that may descend at unpredicted moments. Under its be-
nign shade a plant endures transplanting as comfortably
beneath a hot July sun as if it were a cloudy May morning.

I had brought in a quantity of rich mellow soil — it should
have had more sand in it, as rich earth often causes young
seedlings to "damp off," that is, to drop over and die sud-
denly, when kept too moist — many little stones to put in the

A CHOICE OF WAYS

[P. 25]

A GARDEN LINE MAKING FOR A SLOPE [P. 29]

My Ambition Grows 31

bottom of the pots for drainage, and one bright Sunday morn-
ing at the dark of the moon (to obey the almanac) I began the
holy work of planting some of the seeds. Later I planted
others at intervals of a week apart, writing the name and date
of planting on each pot. Every sunny window and warm
corner in the house was laid under contribution to my pur-
poses. My forcing-house was a long mantle shelf over a wood
stove, which was kept at temperate heat day and night. When
the first seed leaves appeared, the pot containing the new-born
was placed in the sun in a contrivance made by fitting a shal-
low frame into the lower casing of a window, with cleats nailed
across the ends from six to nine inches apart, and narrow
shelves four inches wide were set on the cleats. When three
pairs of leaves appeared, each seedling was transplanted into
a separate pot and placed in the cool shade on the top of a low
bookcase which served as a cold frame. By the time the seed-
lings had recovered entirely they were ready for the fourth
stage, which was to take them into a sunny chamber upstairs
with a south exposure, but no fire, where an even temperature
of about 60° was maintained. As I had no appliances, I used
anything at hand; and when a large table became too full, I
took out the shallow drawers of an old-fashioned bureau and
filled them with my pots, resting one end of a drawer on the
window-sill, the other on the edge of the table, and in this way
increased my area of possible sunshine three or four times.
This last stage of hardening is imperative; 'for if seedlings are
kept long in a warm living-room they grow spindling and very
tender and are quite unprepared for the changeable weather
and high winds of our Northern spring.

By May I had several hundred plants, and the chamber
had an attenuated smell of a real greenhouse. While this
method of propagation gave me a good start, I have never
tried it since. In the first place it is an enormous care, and

32 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

very little is gained by an early start. I had to dig the little
things up with my eyes during February and March; but when
the vital force of spring really begins, nothing can resist it.
It stirs the heart of the onion buried in the depth of the cellar,
and the potato from the black depths of its barrel reaches out
in response; and until this force operates, nothing speeds as
it should. I found, too, that asters planted in February in-
doors were but a trifle larger toward the end of May than those
grown from seed planted in the open the last of April; and
further: when a most unexpected and unheard of frost befell
us toward the end of May, the asters grown in the open were
untouched, while the tender house-bred ones were killed al-
most without exception. I have worked out a better and
much easier plan for growing annuals, which I will give in its
proper place under Seeds.

While these green things were cheering my heart indoors, I
made careful diagrams for the dimensions and arrangements
of beds in the new section. The frost was not yet out of the
ground when I began afresh on the work outside, and each
morning before the sun got high enough to melt them, I found
those curious and beautiful crystal growths made by the mois-
ture oozing out of wet soil in slender glittering filaments, each
bearing, as a crown or blossom, a tiny patch of earth carried
up from the place it sprang. A little corner was dug out of the
rising slope so that the excavation was perhaps eighteen inches
deep at the furthest extremity and tapered down to nothing
as it reached the old garden. A stone wall was here laid three
feet high before the ground began to rise, but tapered to eigh-
teen inches where the bank was eighteen inches deep. This
gave a uniform three- foot wall above the level of the new beds,
which were dug out as before a foot or two deeper, enclosed
with boards, and a thick layer of sods was spread evenly,
which is said to prevent the heaving up of the earth in freez-

My Ambition Grows 33

ing and thawing, and is also an admirable fertilizer, as it
speedily decays. Then they were refilled with a compost as
the first beds had been. To do this I had several cartloads of
black muck, garden loam, sand, manure and wood ashes
hauled onto the bank near the house and dumped separately,
and a little at a time was hoed from each into a central pile,
which a man wheeled to the beds. The old subsoil was
thrown over the new walls, which bounded the extension on
the west and south, and by filling up to the level of the top on
the outside of the walls and back to the rising bank, a new
elevation was established. I have now done this twice, and
have thus secured a double terrace on the west side of the
garden, from which side the main portion presents the ap-
pearance of a sunken garden, with the first terrace three feet
and the second rising six or more feet above the original level.
Effective as this arrangement is, it was conceived as a matter
of pure utility, and a convenient means of disposing of the
surplus earth in excavating the bank, and saved carting it off.
It is a safe statement to make that where necessity is used as a
guide, a certain kind of beauty inevitably follows. For this
reason it is not well to imitate another's work, but to follow
where your own conditions lead. I much regretted at first
that I had no garden plans to study for a model; but, as I now
see my own completed, I cannot imagine it as successful in any
other form, owing to the peculiar conformation of the land.
It has lent itself to my convenience in the gradual exten-
sions from year to year; it offers every condition, from full
exposure to the sun to complete shade, of dry and moist situa-
tions. Certain beds have been planted so as to maintain
bloom the whole season through; others are arranged to keep
up the appearance of bounty by maturing at a late day when
many things are gone. Though made of units, the garden is
composite in its structure.

34 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

I shall not attempt an enumeration of the things I tried that
second summer, for the general results of my eight years' ex-
perience are given in the Appendix; and it is a matter of no
consequence what I began with, or when I attacked the deli-
cate question of bulbs and lilies, when I planted shrubs, when
I was fired with a desire for roses. Sufficient to say that each
year I have followed some central thought; and if one has a
catholic taste, it is inevitable that he will thirst for new posses-
sions each year: but, do not add more than can be cared for
properly; for even a plant should have the right of Christian
burial.

With this addition sprang up the idea of maintaining pure
color in my garden; so one bed was devoted to blue and white
flowers, another to pink, another to pure red and another to
yellow. Several were uncertain and mixed in color, experi-
ment stations as it were, and one I called my Isolation Hos-
pital, where unknown things were set out until their speech
should bewray them.

The results of that second summer were so-so. Some
things were glorious in their bloom; among them were the
hollyhock, Lilium auratum, yellow day lily, Agrostemma codi
rosa, garden heliotrope (Valeriana officinalis) rose colored
sweet-william, cornflower, Cosmos, the ever-faithful nastur-
tiums, marigolds and calendula. I found it very difficult to
maintain my color scheme. Chance seeds of another color
would get in and flourish so vigorously that I had not the
heart to weed them out. The greatest struggle was and has
been to get a succession of bloom in the blue beds. I know the
height, the time of blooming, the manners and customs of in-
numerable blue flowers; I tear to pieces and reorganize year
after year those blue beds, making combinations that I be-
lieve will surely be successful; and they would be, except for
the fact that plants newly set sometimes sulk and will not

My Ambition Grows 35

bloom. Some take a year or two to get established after being
transplanted; others, just as they are about to bloom, get
some infantile disease like the blight of the larkspur, and all
is up with them for that year. I pray and water those beds
with my tears, but supplication is in vain. Theoretically my
arrangement last summer was perfect; but what can one re-
sort to when larkspurs fail, when the Japanese iris is all leaf
(it used to have glorious crowns of bloom before it was trans-
planted), the Siberian iris multiplies, but otherwise balks, the
two-year-old Pentstemon grandiflorus remains an obstinate
little green clump, the Catananche and Wahlenbergia follow
the Pentstemon's bad example, the Lobelia syphilitica is eaten
down by a cutworm, and the blue and purple asters get
caught between the upper and nether stone of the annual
drought. What avails it that the lovely white Physostegia,
Chrysanthemum maximum, meadow rue, infant's breath, wild
carrot, achillea, garden heliotrope, Hesperis matronalis, peren-
nial white phlox, all planted as accessories to give grace and
airiness to the heavier blue tones, do their part bravely — the
bed is distinctly white, not blue, save for early blue spring
flowers gone by June, monkshood and campanula of July,
the Veronica spicata of July and August, and the lilac Physos-
tegia, Liatris and Michaelmas daisies of August and Septem-
ber. I love these plants, and want to get a definite color effect
through them, and I do not want to compromise by substitut-
ing quantities of annuals ; cornflower, nigella, anchusa, nemo-
phila, annual larkspur, Phacelia, Eutoca viscida, just because
they are a rich blue. To arrange blue perennials, so that they
will present a succession of bloom from May to October in the
same bed, is the high ideal I aim to reach, and I seem likely to
give my remaining years to the study. Incidentally I find com-
binations that are beautiful such as white Physostegia Vir-
giniana and Veronica spicata; German Iris and white col-

36 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

umbine; white larkspur and Stokesia cyanea; deep blue colum-
bine and the white Hes peris matronalis, also caraway; white
Achillea Ptarmica pi. fl. and nigella or cornflower (if the
latter does not grow too tall) ; purple Japanese Iris and Gyp-
sophila paniculata (Infant's breath) ; blue monkshood, elder-
berry and meadow rue; blue larkspur, meadow rue and white
wild carrot; Michaelmas daisy and the tall white Cosmos;
forget-me-not and perennial candytuft; blue lupines and gar-
den heliotrope; Canterbury bells and feverfew; snowdrops
and scilla; grape hyacinth and Arabis albida; but in arrang-
ing combinations you must not only have the bloom of plants
coincident, but also an equality of height for each to act as
a foil to the other; everything depends on the two blades of
the scissors acting in conjunction.

The more beautiful a bed is at any given time, the more
sure it is to show blanks at other times. Through a mistake
of judgment I grouped one year an entire bed with blue spring
flowers, and until the end of June the effect was all that could
be desired, but during the remainder of the season it was noth-
ing. Few flowers remain in bloom longer than three or four
weeks and some last but a week or ten days; one must recog-
nize that each is but a small passing contribution to the sum-
mer glory, and make provision for an understudy when a par-
ticular star retires from the floral stage. I now know my
flowers so well that I can count on the precise time when they
come and go, and I have tried the experiment of planting cer-
tain things at intervals over the garden, so that, for a week or
two, when those plants are at the height of their bloom, a wave
of that color is all over the beds instead of being massed in one
place, to leave a great void when they go. Great care must be
exercised if you place a little pink or blue in a yellow bed to
end the engagement before the yellow plants rise in combat
to the eye. It takes more knowledge to manage color this way,

A CLOUD OF INFANT'S BREATH GIVES GRACE TO THE GARDEN [P. 36]

A WAVE OF GARDEN HELIOTROPE

[P. 37]

My Ambition Grows 37

but it is far more satisfactory. For example my yellow bed is
not distinctly yellow until August when the Rudbeckias,
Heleniums, Helianthus l&tifolius and Helianthus mollis and
golden glow are all in bloom. During the earlier part of the
season I can count on these plants being green, and I plant in
that bed any color that I intended to emphasize over the gen-
eral garden up to August. In early spring that bed shows blue
hyacinths, later the rose pink Lychnis dioica rosea; later still
the blue Campanula rapunculoides. During the interval be-
tween the last named, the creamy yellow day lily (Hemer-
occalis flava) shines forth like stars against the north bound-
ary wall beyond. In this way certain beds may be committed
to definite colors, yet lend themselves to a larger color tone
that may pervade the whole garden for a brief season. I mean
to work along this line still further; but it must be remem-
bered, that, to get a strong general effect, one should have
from a dozen to thirty plants of showy bloom of any given
variety. Instead of giving a single large space to columbines
I distribute them according to color in every bed, and during
their reign, the garden seems to be largely columbines. In
the same way, I have used the Michaelmas daisy, hollyhock,
campanulas, forget-me-not, perennial phlox, flava lily, pol-
emonium, foxglove, Chrysanthemum maximum, perennial
pea, infant's breath, lupines, iris, lychnis, sweet-william; also
meadow rue, garden heliotrope, and clematis, which break
into a white foam, the high-water mark 'of the whole summer,
and then gently ebb into green obscurity. By choosing your
dates with exactness, you may plant what you will in any bed,
and still maintain pure color; but, to do it, you must know your
plants intimately. For several years I have kept a careful
record of the date of bloom of each plant. If conditions are
normal, they appear each year promptly to a day; but some-
times the season is late, or a cold prolonged rain defers them

38 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

a week, or a hot dry season forces them along, for all of which
allowance must be made. These lists are of the greatest aid
in arranging combinations.

A spirit of thankfulness is a good thing to cultivate at all
times. I remember, several years ago, being not a little an-
noyed at finding a huge African marigold flourishing in a cor-
ner of one of my blue beds. I was inclined to pluck it out at
once as an impertinence. Later, when a heavy shortage of
blue flowers occurred in that vicinity, and my yellow bed went
to pieces under a two months' drought beginning in July, I
was grateful for my brave little marigold and only wished
there were twenty like it in the same place. Yellow beds and
pink ones can be counted on with much more certainty than
blue ones, because both comprise many long and steadfast
bloomers; and there is so much life in these colors that a little
of them will brighten quite an area. A good way is constantly
to try new combinations and trust not a little to chance.
Some of my happiest effects are largely due to chance, di-
rected by a consideration of the height of certain plants.
When the question involves color, height, time of flowering,
also length of bloom, it takes much shuffling to achieve what
you want.

Every moment that could be spared from other duties was
given to my flowers that second summer. I wearied poor
Adam almost to extinction. I would talk over the wheel to
any acquaintance we met on the road. From every one who
came to see me was wrung the concession that things looked
flourishing, and promised even better by another year.

It never occurs to an enthusiast that there may be an obverse
side to his shield; that he may seem mildly mad when he is
having a beautiful effervescent time with a hobby. We gradu-
ally come into all the truth that is for us, and it was in this
wise that a flood of light was let in on my conduct. I was in

My Ambition Grows 39

the midst of an accidental conversation held in the middle of
the road late in September that second year, when my in-
structor, a calm, middle-aged woman, but old and established
in garden ways, suddenly broke in upon my fusilade with the
query, " Have you had your garden long ?"

"No," said I, "only two summers of garden and two win-
ters of catalogues."

" I thought so," she replied enigmatically. I scented some-
thing wrong.

"What made you think so?" demanded I.

"Because you take it so hard," and mischief lurked under
her innocent smile.

The blow staggered me for a moment, but I recovered, and
answered jauntily: "The second summer is always hard on
teething babes, and I am cutting a lot of wisdom teeth this
year."

WITHIN MY GARDEN WALLS

happy coincidence our two birthdays and the an-
niversary of our wedding day come before the
middle of April, for each occasion offers the op-
portunity of presenting seeds and plants. The
first time I tried this wholly disinterested act was when I made
a birthday offering of rose bushes to Adam. I liked the
thought of a living souvenir, which should yearly blossom in
celebration of the day; but I now have the idea that his hopes
may have been fixed elsewhere, for I not only had to explain
the reason for my choice, but he never remembers they are his,
and he takes no particular interest in their growth. Somehow
his indifferent attitude reminds me of an illustration I once
saw in which Algernon Sidney was bestowing a box of cigars
upon his young wife Angelina, who in turn presented to him,
as her gift, a pair of lace curtains. The artist caught Adam's
expression exactly when I introduced him to the roses. Per-
haps it is because of Adam's other-worldliness that he soars
above things terrestrial. A gleam of genuine pleasure lights
up his countenance when I give him a Greek book or new
neckties — provided I do not make a fatal choice — but the
smile and the gift are soon laid away, and it is like putting a
child through the catechism to find out later from him what
he actually received. In subsequent years I celebrated our
anniversaries in a way pleasing to myself. One February I
made myself a wedding gift of one hundred and fifty varieties
of plants, shrubs and seeds. A few omissions were supplied
in March on my own birthday. The next year my generous

40

Within My Garden Walls 41

gift was repeated and highly appreciated — by myself. There
is a yearly crop of new books on Greece, and I confine my
souvenirs to Adam to them, for I notice that they elicit a
broader and more permanent smile than does any thing else
that I choose, and he never innocently asks me a few days
later, "Who gave you that?" as he has been known to do
about other tokens of affection which I have presented. I am
always a bit embarrassed at his laying the burden of posses-
sion on me, when it happens to be my gift to him, prayerfully
selected and done up in the whitest of tissue paper and the
palest of blue ribbons, with a sweet little sentiment inside; but
he never feels embarrassment over his mistake — he simply
laughs and leaves me to ponder why my gifts make no perma-
nent impression on his memory. Perhaps the male brain is
not developed in appreciation, and we must not be too hard on
mental or physical incapacities.

As I have not yet arrived at the age when birthdays no
longer recur, I have gradually acquired large additions to my
stock, and each year witnesses an extension of my territory.
The garden has crept up both banks until it is now one hun-
dred and twenty feet by sixty, and has almost reached the
house on the east side. Wherever it has been possible I have
given beds the protection of a stone wall from two to three feet
high and the advantages of a wall are so great that I must
dwell a moment on the subject, for it has a much wider appli-
cation than merely to my own use. In choosing the site of a
country house, one naturally selects an eminence, for the sake
of outlook, drainage and other considerations. New England
abounds in such sites, but these same eminences are full of
rocks and ledges; the soil is usually poor compared with low-
lying lands, and the question how to make things grow near
the house on a hot, dry, stony hillside becomes a serious prob-
lem. For this reason my solution of this particular difficulty

42 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

may be of value to many amateurs. A stone wall three feet
high built southeast or south or west of a bed not only shades
the roots of plants from the hot rays of the sun, but in the cool
shadow of it, evaporation does not go on as in the open, and
the soil of a dry exposed bed, when thus protected, is rendered
damp and shaded for a good part of the day. Several hours of
direct sunshine are good, but few plants can stand it all day.
Also in winter these walls catch the snow and pile deep drifts
that are a perfect protection to even tender perennials. Al-
though a portion of the garden lies on a low level, the greater
part of it is three and six and even eight feet above that level;
yet, when covered with snow, it presents a smooth sloping un-
broken surface under which all inequalities of height disap-
pear. In the shadow of the walls the snow lies late upon the
beds in the spring, which saves the plants from the alternate
thawing and freezing that are so disastrous. In some in-
stances these walls merely face the cutting of a bank that rises
from two to three feet above a bed, and sometimes I have
built them up from the ground in a double row of rocks. I
note that plants in these shaded beds flourish amazingly and
never suffer from drought no matter how prolonged it may be;
this means an economy of labor in watering.

Aside from the utility I like the strong contrast of tender
plant life against the stern granite. The Japanese have used
stones as one of the chief adornments of their gardens, and
while we cannot and need not imitate their use of them, we
can make them serve in our own way. I have a broken
jagged stone almost four feet high at the corner of one of my
walls, that I always speak of as a corner-stone of happiness,
so great is my pleasure in seeing it serve as a background in
turn to rock columbine, harebells, meadow rue, Japanese iris,
clematis, Physostegia and Michaelmas daisy.

Nothing could be more favorable to the growth of deep-

THE GARDEN COVERED WITH SNOW PRESENTS A SMOOTH, SLOPING,
UNBROKEN SURFACE [P. 42]

SNOW LIES LATE UPON THE BEDS IN SPRING [P. 42]

Within My Garden Walls 43

rooted perennials than the cool wet rocks that underlie many
of my beds. They afford a perfect drainage, yet retain the
moisture to an astonishing degree. Even in a very dry season
I often find the walks of the lower garden quite damp in the
early morning. When once rooted among these rocks plants
establish themselves amazingly. I once planted seeds of the
hollyhock mallow (Malva alcea), and as they gave no evidence
of growth the first year I forgot all about them. Late in the
following year I discovered a new plant in bloom, which,
when analyzed, proved to be the forgotten mallow. I was de-
lighted— but not for long. The third year it grew like Jack's
beanstalk, not the promised three feet, but five — and still on
until eight feet high. I stood about helplessly witnessing this
phenomenon, yet powerless to check it. It waxed still
stronger the fourth year and covered a space of four and a half
feet through, by eight feet high — imagine thirty-six cubic feet
of mallow with its wretched little straggling bloom. I deter-
mined to evict it. I used first the gentle persuasion of a potato
digger, the most homeopathic treatment I ever apply. It
firmly resisted. Then I got the spading fork, but the mallow
stood unshaken. Then I seized the pickax and crowbar and
wrought fearful havoc, extracting the greater part of it, at least
two bushels of roots that were a foot and a half long. A little
of it was kept to set out in the dryest and most exposed por-
tion of the garden, and it has meekly shrunk to a three-foot
growth. This year I found a portion still remaining in its
former place, lording it over a fine lot of pink Lilium spe-
ciosum and I peremptorily took off all the heads when only a
foot high. I have decapitated it regularly once a month
throughout the summer. It is now bigger than I am; a small
portion has become equal to the whole, in defiance of mathe-
matics. I mean to get it out if I have to sacrifice the pink
lilies.

44 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

The same thing happened with a blue lupine. It wouldn't
budge until I applied pickax and crowbar. I tried the same
forcible argument on a blue Veronica spicata that was given
temporary shelter in a pink bed until the pink tenants got
better established. So far the Veronica has won every round;
its position is impregnable and I am alternately divided be-
tween my determination to use dynamite if necessary, or to
capitulate with the Veronica and decide that a little bright
blue is not criminal in a pink bed. As the season advances
and the bloom is past, and it is incontinently shedding its un-
reachable seeds in every direction, I think I shall resort to ex-
plosives. Rocks are great institutions for permanent residents.

My various operations have included many compromises.
I came across one stone that took two straining men and a
stout work horse to slide it down into a deep hole, where it was
covered up to remain until Judgment Day. Then I found
others that all the king's horses and all the king's men couldn't
stir, and they still maintain their positions by sheer force of
character. One of these I walked around so much, trying to
decide what could be done with it, that I wore a little path.
The big stone and the little path looked so very Japanese that
I came to accept it on those terms, and by dint of rough stone
steps leading up to the little path, a clematis trained up as an
entrance gate to it, and a rustic vine-covered fence beyond, I
have a queer anomalous corner filled with a succession of blue
flowers that quite delights my heart, for I can see it through a
window as I sit at my desk every day. To-day the blue flowers
are mostly gone with only the Liatris and Michaelmas daisies
still to come: but by accident a native white aster by the rustic
fence has shot up several stalks seven feet high, with a crown
of bloom several feet across, and framing it about as a halo, I
see pale pink, deep rose pink and cardinal red hollyhocks
which grow in beds beyond it. It is needless to say that this

A CORNERSTONE OF HAPPINESS

[P. 42]

A BIG STONE AND A LITTLE PATH

[P. 44]

Within My Garden Walls 45

chance combination will be carefully preserved another year,
and repeated elsewhere — if an inspiration can ever be re-
peated.

A favorite point of view is a rustic seat that commands a
larger part of the garden. In the beds facing it I have planted
many of my favorite flowers, the deliciously-scented flava
lily (Hemerocallis flava) , Madonna lilies, Lilium auratum,
blue and white lupines, blue and white larkspurs, Physostegia
Virginiana alba, that resembles threaded pearls on its green
stems; the beautiful white Achillea Plarmica, pale shell pink
and salmon pink columbines, infant's breath, lovely meadow
rue, forget-me-nots, the fragrant garden heliotrope and Hes-
peris matronalis, and other delectable things. By the side of
the seat grows a sweetbrier rose in the deep shadow of a stone
wall, where it has made a growth of eight feet. Over the seat
is a trellis upon which is trained a white clematis, Virginia
creeper, fragrant yellow honeysuckle, and a hop vine; also the
Allegheny vine modestly creeps up one side every year, and I
always find deep purple and white morning glories looking
into my face before the summer is over. Of all these I think
the hop vine is the most fascinating in its graceful festoons of
pale green hops.

There is only one trouble in my garden, there is always too
much everywhere. I am soft-hearted and one thing after an-
other gets a start, and they hail other companions, and before
I know it a dozen things are crowding to the front. So long
as they do not kill each other, I let them alone, for every plant
has its day, and we need many days to fill the entire summer
with bloom.

I have in another direction an arbor leading out of the main
garden to an upper terraced wall. It is covered with hop vines
and Virginia creeper growing at one corner, at a second is a
Wistaria sinensis that makes a beautiful leafy column about

46 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

its post each year, though it does not bloom — it is said to take
seven years' residence in one spot for the wistaria to feel at
home, — a grape-vine and Japanese wistaria are on the third
side. It is a perfect bower of green and proved a curious
stumbling-block to a strange urbanite, who found herself on
our hill one morning. She wanted to get away, and I was
anxious she should, as she came at a critical moment in my
affairs, when, if she had been an intimate friend, I should have
given her a good book, bidding her go sit under a green tree
and be happy until I was free. Being a stranger, she was
treated with more ceremony and less tolerance.

"Isn't there a path down to the high road?" she inquired.
"There is," said I with ill-concealed satisfaction. "You go
down through the garden, and on through the orchard be-
yond, and you will find a turnstile in the wall just as you reach
the wood path."

She seemed a bit confused — perhaps she had once been lost
in a wood and felt a natural caution. She wanted me to re-
peat the directions; I did so, but she still stood uncertain. "I
am to go down through that path and under that" — she
paused, extending a much bejewelled forefinger, her vocabu-
lary, gathered on the city pave, had no equivalent for a luscious
green arbor — "That, ah — that awning?" she interrogated.

"Yes, go under the awning," I repeated, "and out through
the orchard — you can't miss the turnstile." What this last
rural term meant to her mind I never learned. As no one was
reported missing in the woods, I presume she must have found
her way.

My walks are covered with sand, for it does not track into
the house as the native soil would. Sand has another ad-
vantage; it serves as a seed bed for a multitude of self-sowing
plants. When I want a forcible hollyhock, lupine, canterbury
bell or columbine, or desire particularly strong annuals such

CLEMATIS TRAINED UP AS AN ENTRANCE GATE [P. 44]

WHITE Physostegia Virginiana [P. 45]

Within My Garden Walls 47

as candytuft, sweet alyssum, cornflower, Linaria marrocana,
or catchfly, I do not plant the seed; I look about my walks un-
til I find them and then transplant them. This is where I get
my best specimens to fill the gaps made by cutting down early
perennials after they have bloomed. I do not have to coddle
these sturdy plants; they have stood the test of winter and a
frosty spring. Any one who has watered seeds to young plant-
hood has a genuine admiration for self-supporting walk-
grown plants.

" But," exclaims the Tidy Woman, she who maintains an
orderly top bureau drawer though the heavens fall, "how
disorderly your garden must look all cluttered up that way."

"Indeed it does, Madam, at times; so much so that Adam
files an injunction to restrain me from further neglect, and
threatens to hoe the walks himself if it is not done by a certain
day."

"My path is literally strewn with flowers," I protest to him
sentimentally, and I remember various church weddings with
little pages and flower girls strewing posies down the aisle;
they were but a symbol, and this the real thing.

My words have no visible effect upon my neat Adam. He is
a worthy man, but he has no eye for nice distinctions existing
in seed leaves. He does not know at sight a new-born lupine
or columbine or asperula or forget-me-not. He simply can't
be trusted in my walks unless disarmed of hoe and shovel.
Sometimes I am forced to accompany him.

"Ipse Dixit, I'll not wait another day; your walks are
disgraceful," he announces suddenly; his determined voice
has a long-suffering undertone that I respect.

I well know what this means, and leave any important do-
mestic situation to act as body-guard — not to him, but to the
intended victims.

He always wants to begin at the entrance, and work steadily

48 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

over every inch of ground on to the bitter end. "Now you
may begin here," I say, setting his metes and bounds as if he
were the ocean, " and work carefully down this way, keeping
clear of every border at least a foot; they are full of things I
can't spare; but don't touch this," suddenly spying some
perennial advanced to the third pair of seed leaves, "nor
this — oh, you must shy away from that," and I make magic
rings of cleared ground with my own hoe about the endan-
gered seedlings.

Adam has learned the fatal power of concentration, and
hoes steadily on. His are not the sins of omission; he has a
good heart and an imperturbable temper, yet he has the red
hand of the slayer. Vainly do I make vast deserts of sand
about little green oases I want spared. If I look up in the sky
one minute, or wander ten feet from his side to escape the
death-cry of his victims — the deed is done. Destruction, apol-
ogies and clean walks are synonyms for Adam's hoeing.

Of late years I undertake this delicate commission alone.
My hoe has intermittent habits, I always have from four to
six very hot irons in the fire, and the worse the walks look, the
less I want to see them. But affairs work up to a climax, and I
stand in not a little awe of Adam's salutary criticism. I prize
his approbation and I am growing to like a clean, trim walk for
its own sake, so I have learned to harden my heart and reap
great harvests of flowering things that I would fain let stand.
But when the painful task is over I feel the guilty contrition of
a young girl I once knew, who used to beguile her lonely hours
with rifle shooting, and, being a good shot, she would daily
bring down a chipmunk or red squirrel, which she proceeded to
bury with many tears in her own small garden plot. Her grief
took a prudent form, for she planted each limp little body at
the root of a shrub to serve as a fertilizer, and in consequence
I always spoke of Margaret's garden as her animal orchard.

A TANGLE OF MEADOW-RUE, WILD CLEMATIS AND HOP VINE [P. 45]

'THAT AWNING :

[P. 46]

SEEDS

HE third winter we spent in Florida, and as we did
not return home until the first of April, I had to
resort to other methods than mantel-raised seed-
lings, which while interesting was not practical,
and determined to raise my annuals in a hotbed. I love ad-
ventures and perils — if closely attended by escapes — and had
been duly impressed with the manifold difficulties of Adam's
hotbed for vegetables. I like the idea of playing guardian to a
hundred tiny souls, fending them from frost, too much sun, too
much heat, too little water, well knowing that, if like Homer, I
nodded a moment, destruction would follow. As soon as the
frost was sufficiently out of the ground to work — which means
that the earth had thawed out to a depth of a foot or eighteen
inches, and beneath that all was still solid ice — I dug out a
small grave-like hole two and a half feet wide and four feet
long, the dimensions agreeing with a discarded window cas-
ing, and its accompanying storm-window. I went down about
two feet or more, the earth thawing as I dug, and then Adam
was summoned to give further advice. He brought fresh
manure and put it in to the depth of a foot or more, trampling
it down hard with his big rubber boots, and then we fitted in
the frame, tilting it toward the south so that the back edge was
six inches above the ground and the front edge two. We care-
fully banked it around with turf, so that no cold could get in
about the edges, and I got some finely pulverized loam from
my compost heap, and covered the manure to the depth of
about five inches. The glass was put on to remain a few days,

49

50 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

until the heat made by the fresh manure had subsided. I
found it hard to wait those few days, particularly when con-
siderable snow fell, and my operations seemed to be deferred
indefinitely.

The first day the sun shone forth, I decided to risk an en-
counter with Adam, and started out with a shovel, a broom,
several boards, newspapers, my basket of seeds, markers and
a pencil. It is true I wore a hood, heavy winter coat, arctic
overshoes and leggings as if starting on a polar expedition.
Adam spied me as I was loading my plunder in the wheel-
barrow. " Where are you going, Ipse ? "

" 'I'm going a-planting, sir, she said/ " I sang out
gaily.

I have learned that a bold front has great weight with
Adam, and when about to do something that is sure to call
forth a word of remonstrance, I assume the attitude of being
predestined from the beginning of the world to perform just
that identical act. I do not know whether it is Adam's re-
spect for fore-ordination or my determination that carries the
day — but I seldom lose.

"Ipse, you must not; the snow is six inches deep where you
intend to work, and it is still winter," he pleaded.

"It depends on where you look," said I. "It is summer
overhead, and spring is overdue at least two weeks by the
calendar."

"You will gain nothing," continued he. "It is too early;
wait until next week."

"Manana is not my policy, Adam," said I firmly, "don't
oppose me. You know I always yield to your advice. These
seeds ought to have been planted a month ago. What is the
use of a hotbed if you wait until it is warm enough to plant
anywhere outside ? I'm going to shovel away the snow from
the front of the frame, sweep the ground clean, lay down these

Seeds 51

boards, cover them with papers to sit on and it will be as warm
and cozy a work as if I were knitting by the fire."

Adam never nags; he knows how far a prudent husband
should go, and having gone the full distance, he waves a fare-
well hand as I pursue my arbitrary way. On this occasion he
gallantly trundled the wheelbarrow down through the drifts
that still lay two feet deep in the runway, and up to the hot-
bed that was steaming under the glass.

I filled my space with seeds of annuals, drawing shallow
furrows through the earth, dropping in a few seeds sparingly,
and smoothing the earth over them. One of the chief difficul-
ties with amateurs is that they sow seed too thickly. Seeds
look so small that it is hard to realize the space a single plant
will cover. I knew a man once who sowed three packages of
Shirley poppy-seed in a bed a foot wide and four feet long, and
then asked if he ought not to have put in more! The rule is
to plant seeds to the depth of three or four times their size, but,
if very fine, seeds should be merely scattered on the surface
and pressed in lightly. Some are too fine to strew properly
and may be mixed with a little fine earth, and then scattered.
After a row was sown I pressed down the earth until it made
a slightly depressed line in order that the water might settle
in these depressions and sink in gradually. Each row was
carefully marked with its name upon small portions of a
strawberry box that had been torn into inch strips.

I hovered about that hotbed like a bee 'about a honey pot,
lifting the front edge a trifle each sunny day to let in the air,
carefully replacing it at night. As the weather grew warmer
the lid was raised still higher, so that the young plants should
be gradually hardened. By the middle of May I had perhaps
thirty varieties of annuals ready to set out, and felt the same
triumph a physician would, who had brought a community
through a cholera epidemic without losing a life.

52 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

These were carefully transplanted, and each seedling was
covered with a Neponset pot for three or four days. To trans-
plant I use a mason's small pointing trowel, and by thrusting
in the trowel three or four inches and drawing it forward, it
makes a deep clean hole, or rather, a wide slit in the ground
into which you can drop the roots of the plant to their full
depth. If water is poured in at once before pushing back the
earth, the ground is wet down to the very tip of the roots,
which is not the case if the earth is put back first and watered
afterwards. I believe that this method of soaking the earth
at the very roots has been the reason why I seldom lose a plant
when transplanted. Even young poppies survive when thus
treated. Before lifting the seedlings it is well to water them
thoroughly in order that as much earth as possible may cling
to the roots. If the plants are too thick in the rows, you lose
most of the soil when separating them; therefore sow seed
sparingly in the row, and have more rows, if necessary. Leave
a slight depression about each plant for the water to settle in,
as was suggested for the seed rows.

There is this to be said, however, about transplanted seed-
lings: they require much more care for a time than if allowed
to remain where the seed was sown; they must have daily
watering; and, if scattered promiscuously over a garden, it
means much labor; they must be shaded from the hot sun for
a week or more, and they are never so large or vigorous, un-
less every condition is favorable. I have since found a much
better way to treat annuals than to start them in either a hot-
bed or a cold frame. I now have beds devoted to them, on
either side of the entrance to the garden, one three feet by
seventeen, the other three feet by fourteen. These beds are
part of a terrace that is two feet lower than the lawn about the
house, and face the southwest. As soon as the earth is mellow,
perhaps by the last week of April, I plant the seeds in the open

CHEESE CLOTH PROTECTION FOR ANNUALS [P. 52]

THE SAME ANNUAL BED IN AUGUST [P. 53]

Seeds 53

ground where the plants are to remain. One bed is for pink
flowers shading into red, the other blue, and the tender varie-
ties of each color are grouped together in a small space. If the
weather is warm I let the beds alone, allowing the seeds to
take their time to germinate, and I water them very little,
which forces them to root deeper. If the weather turns cold
or a frost is impending, and especially after the seeds have
come up, I cover the beds temporarily with a double thickness
of cheese cloth, and the more tender plants with the storm
windows of the house. In this way I have brought my plants
through killing frosts, and they have the advantage of hardy
open-air growth, and deep roots that withstand prolonged
droughts. Many annuals that are recommended to be started
early in gentle heat, bloom under this treatment in July and
the first week of August, which is as early as they are ever se-
cured according to the catalogues. Seeds should be sown
thinly, and even then they will probably require further thin-
ning out, and may be transplanted elsewhere to cover vacan-
cies made by the departure of early perennials. Transplant
them early so that they may become established before hot
weather. This method involves almost no care and very
little watering; for one does not go over little tracts in many
beds; and, placed at the entrance of the garden, the annuals
make a conspicuous showing during the trying months of
July and August. I get my plants so early that the seeds of
the first heads of any variety have time to mature and drop,
and thereby I secure a quantity of self-sown plants of the most
vigorous growth the following spring. I shall never return to
the troublous, difficult problem of a hotbed for annuals.

Nor do I find it any advantage for raising perennials in my
latitude, while the disadvantages are many. After I got out
my first consignment of annuals I was so happy in the success,
that by the middle of June I planted the bed full of perennial

54 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

seeds. They came up promptly — that is some of them — ran
their brief race and disappeared — at least, most of them did.
I could not imagine what was the matter, and planted more
seed. I watered the bed daily, tilted up the glass covered with
a piece of burlap so as to shade the bed from the extreme heat
of the noonday sun. I sat by its side fondly, but my attentions
were largely in vain. Rows of green here to-day were gone to-
morrow. "The days of man are as grass; the wind passeth
over it, and it is gone, and the place thereof shall know it no
more." Surely when David sang he must have known the
sorrows of a hotbed. One day late in August I ran a hairpin
down between the furrows to loosen the earth, and tumbled
out a white grubworm, and for several days my one aim in
life was to unearth grubs.

Now the white grub is the son of that frazzled, trampish-
looking brown beetle that had hovered in numbers over my
hotbed earlier in the season. I shall never forget my first
adventure with one. I had a well-manured open bed in early
May where I was planting seeds, and was not a little annoyed
by these beetles buzzing around. I had tried to kill them,
but they are crusty creatures, and my little stabs at them
were ineffectual. Finally one lit on the ground, and to
silence him until I got through, I dropped a Neponset pot
over him. I could not have treated him with greater civility;
for later, when I lifted the pot, he was not to be found. I
was guileless in those days, easily puzzled over a thousand
nameless causes and too obvious effects, and I wondered if he
had burrowed out as a woodchuck does, or what had hap-
pened. I did not find out for a whole year, and when I
learned their habits and saw them make a sudden dive into
the ground, I pounced right after them with a stick; but I
never went quick enough nor deep enough; for they burrow
with incredible speed right down to the moist manure that is

Seeds 55

the basis of all hotbeds, and there lay their eggs. I won't de-
scribe the white grub, for it is a horror to think of with its thin,
shiny, bluish-white skin, thick body, and unnecessary equip-
ment of legs. When you see something from half an inch to
two inches long that turns your very soul with revolt, it is the
white grub, that never comes to the surface in bold fashion to
stand tiptoe on the end of its little tail to eat a plant right
through above ground as the manly brown cut-worm does.
No, it wanders just below the surface, eats the roots and
tender stalks of seedlings that can utter no sound — but just
die. If you are new to the business you stand around futilely
witnessing the infant mortality, and declaim against the acts
of Providence. I was happy in capturing six victims in the
hotbed though the rows were already decimated, and I knew
that a whole year had been lost for many of the seeds
planted. The following June, after my annuals were re-
moved, I decided to dig over the hotbeds — I then had four —
which had been prepared in the usual manner with manure
and loam, except that they were planted late enough not to re-
quire glass, and to my amazement I found not six grubs, but
literally hundreds. I immediately understood the cause of my
former losses, and determined never again to use manure as
an underpinning of a hotbed, for it is manure alone that at-
tracts the brown May beetle. In recent years I have gone
much further and do not use manure anywhere in the garden,
unless it has been thoroughly mixed with other ingredients in
a compost heap, and has stood a year or more, and is carefully
forked over before applying to the beds. I have not found a
single grubworm for four years and believe this is the only
safeguard against them.

Having despatched the battalions, I planted perennial
seeds again in faith, strengthened by a quantity of wood ashes
mixed through the soil, as a protection against pests, using no

56 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

bottom dressing, and had about seventy-five varieties under
way — I thought. Many rows came up and my heart was
glad; then a drought befell us, and grasshoppers were sore in
the land, and katydids and crickets found my tender greens
fresh and appetizing, and again I saw young life mowed down
by the relentless sickle of Fate. I went out ten times a day to
shoo the ravaging horde away. Then I covered the frames
closely with cheese-cloth, only to find at any hour of the day
a couple of dozen fat sleek crickets basking under the cool
shade, eating at their leisure. So, droughty as it was, I trans-
planted everything that was large enough to risk, sowed more
seeds in the bare rows, and played Providence to the remain-
ing nurslings that were too tiny to be lifted. In the autumn
the wind drifted the leaves into the cold frames and I left the
nursery, well content to have so good a shelter provided.

The following spring I hurried home from the South, eager
to see how the little things throve under their deep blanket of
leaves. When I reached those beds I stood by veritable
graves. I had decided not to cover them with sashes because
of the heavy snows that pile up five and even six feet on the
level, and I feared that the plants would suffocate and the
sashes to my frames be ruined. And there were my sunken
beds submerged under a foot of water that had melted from
a recent snowfall, while the earth frozen solid under the
blanket of leaves prevented it from sinking in. There were no
funerals, though the dead from drowning were unnumbered.
Another winter I tried covering the cold frames with boards,
weighted down with stones to keep them in place; but I leave
home too early in winter and return too late in the spring
to give them proper attention. Everything was moldy or
rotted, and I saved but little. I discovered in the spring, when
the beds were thoroughly overhauled, why they had suffered
so from drought the previous summer. Forest trees over

Seeds 57

thirty feet away had sent out fuzzy fibrous roots that had made
a dozen laps up and down the mellow soil, and out of each
small cold frame I took at least half a bushel of gluttonous
roots that had robbed the earth of moisture. Having made
repeated trials both of hotbeds and cold frames, from which
I never got one third the plants I should have had, I decided
to make an experiment of my own. Unless seedlings are
grown in the open, they are apt to "damp off," a condition
where too much heat or moisture weakens the growth, and
without warning the stem decays and the little plant dies. I
chose a sheltered spot half-way up a bank, remote from trees,
facing the east in order to get shade from the afternoon sun
und protection from the northwest winter wind, and here I
prepared an ordinary bed, without bottom heat or manure,
the soil being first a layer of grass sods turned root-side up,
then a mixture a foot deep of loam, leaf mold, wood ashes
and much sand, which is reserved for a seed-bed and nursery.
Now some people advise planting perennial seeds in Au-
gust; but in northern latitudes many of these seeds take a
month or more to germinate, and there is not sufficient time
before winter sets in to make a stocky growth that will with-
stand extreme cold. Then, too, the vital forces are stronger in
spring; there is greater probability of moisture than in August;
and a seedling that has achieved six months of vigorous growth
the first year is better prepared for its active duties the second.
For these reasons I now plant seeds of perennials early in
May, so that they may have the whole summer for growth.
Seeds then may take their own time to germinate, a few days,
weeks, or even a year, if necessary, without the need of dis-
turbing the bed to rout out grubworms or invading roots. If
at all crowded, when large enough, the seedlings are sepa-
rated and reset in the other end of the bed; otherwise, they are
allowed to remain where they are until they attain a blooming

58 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

size. While this bed requires daily attention, the plants are
cared for collectively with much less trouble than if, as little
seedlings, they were reset in permanent positions all over the
garden.

With this sheltered nursery bed I have not only carried
young seedlings successfully through the winter, protected
with only a light mulch of leaves, but some varieties, planted
as seeds in May, have developed into strong blooming plants
within three months, such as English daisy (Bellis perennis)
and Callirrhoe. The deep well-drained soil is kept moist by the
shadow of the stone wall facing the cutting in the bank; and,
to give further shade, I have planted above it tall perennials
that do not seed readily, such as azure and deep blue lark-
spur, white perennial phlox, pink hollyhocks. For spring
bloom I have added the early pink lychnis (Lychnis dioica
rosea), blue and white columbine, and white foxglove for
June; but these must be watched and every seed vessel re-
moved, as they sow their seeds far and wide.

I have also found it an advantage to construct an awning of
cheese-cloth over my perennial seed-bed, high enough to ad-
mit air and a little sun, yet a protection from the direct noon-
day rays. Some advise that this be replaced later with an
open lattice-covering made from laths, which would admit
more sun. I have not found it advisable because of our long
extreme droughts. With my utmost endeavor I can scarcely
keep the bed sufficiently moist when a drought continues six
to ten weeks, so that cheese-cloth is none too much shelter
from the burning heat. Under this light canopy I have had
self-sown foxgloves make a tuft of leaves twelve inches across
the first season.

My great trouble is to preserve virgin soil anywhere. No
matter at what season I construct a bed, nor from what source
I collect my earth, lo! before the bed has cooled from the heat

THE NEW NURSERY BED SHELTERED BY A WALL AND TALL PEREN-
NIALS PLANTED ABOVE IT [P. 57]

SHIRLEY POPPIES

[P. 61]

Seeds

59

of my shovel all kinds of desirable but unsolicited tenants
have moved in and make themselves very much at home. As
my heart is grateful for any garden good, when unsought Anne
Hathaway poppies, that are given the freedom of the vegetable
garden rods away, offer themselves as stancher friends than
shy pentstemons or reluctant Lobelia syphilitica, the fault is
not wholly mine if a lusty poppy bed flourishes over the heads
of these recalcitrants.

" Oh, but that is not gardening in the strict sense," you will
say, severely.

"Of course not," I reply, "but it is flowers, and plenty of
them, and if not of one kind, then another, by all means. I
like surprises — some people call them disappointments; all
depends upon how you look at them." The earth must be
clothed, and every seed-bed 4* a living testimony to Sir
Thomas Browne's commentary on that memorable third day
of Creation: "Gardens were before gardeners, and but some
hours after the earth." Equal suffrage dates from the mo-
ment, when, after the appearance of dry land, the earth busied
itself bringing forth grass, herbs and trees, each yielding seed
after its own kind.

I continue to experiment with twenty-five to fifty new va-
rieties every year, just to see what they are, though I retain
but few of the annuals as permanent residents. If, after three
years' trial, I do not get results from a perennial seed, I buy a
single plant of it, and propagate by division of the root, and
also sow its first seed as soon as it matures, and again the next
spring. I have tried to cover the peculiarities of seeds and
their special requirements in the Appendix. Some are ex-
tremely difficult to grow under ordinary conditions. I have
utterly failed to germinate Dictamnus, Lobelia syphilitica,
^Ethionema, Trollius, Romneya coulter a, Adenophora and
Ranunculus. These I have bought as plants. Some seeds

60 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

require unusual conditions such as Gentiana crinala, the beau-
tiful blue fringed gentian, that is not native to my vicinity.
It is a biennial, and requires a moist sandy place for its seeds
to germinate. I have experimented with it by a partly shaded
brook, where it is damp, but not wet. I cleared places and
covered them with sand upon which I have strewn the seed.
So far I have failed to get any result, but I shall try it a few
years longer before giving it up.

To return to seeds; they are as individual as the plants
themselves. Some like the Eremurus, iris, rose, Dictamnus,
Bocconia, Romneya, Incarvillea, Clematis Jackmanni, the
flava lily, Hyacinthus candicans and perennial phlox take
from six months to a year to germinate. A few have a hard
husk which has to be filed to admit moisture, as the Japanese
morning-glory; the Abronia is enclosed in a papery shell im-
pervious to moisture which must be removed if it is to germi-
nate promptly. Some must be planted with the eye down;
some, like the Portulaca, cannot be sown until June; certain
annuals are better to be sown in the autumn, and again in the
spring to insure a long succession of bloom. Some are better
to be kept from one to three years before planted. I subjoin
a list of perennials and annuals that you may trust to sow
their own seeds, and plants derived from self-sown seeds are
much hardier than those raised in the usual way.

SELF-SOWING PERENNIALS

Agrostemma coronaria Chrysanthemum maximum

Anchusa Clematis

Asperula hexaphylla Columbine

Candytuft, Per. Daisy, Ox-eye

Canterbury bells Daisy, Paris

Centaurea montana Daisy, Yellow (Rudbeckia)

Cardinal flower Feverfew

Seeds 61

Flava lily Lychnis flos cuculi

Forget-me-not L. viscaria

Foxglove Lythrum salicaria

Gypsophila paniculate Malva sylvestris

Hesperis matronalis Pansy

Hollyhock Perennial pea

Johnny-jump-up Phlox, Per.

Larkspur, Per. Rocket (Hesperis)

Lobelia cardinalis Sweet-william

Lupinus polyphillus Veronica

Lychnis chalcedonica Violet

L. coronaria Wild carrot

L. dioica rosea

SELF-SOWING ANNUALS

Agrosiemma codi-rosa Godetia

Alyssum, Sweet Gypsophila elegans

Amaranthus Larkspur

Ambrosia Mexicana Liner ia marrocana

Artemesia annua Morning-glory

Aspertda carulea Nasturtium

Calendula Nigella

Calandrinia Nicotiana

Candytuft Nycterinia

Catchfly Palifoxia

Clarkia Petunia

Cleome pungens Phacelia

Collomia Phlox Drummondii

Coreopsis Poppy, Shirley

Cornflower (Centaurea) Poppy, Paeony

Cosmos Schizanthus

Dog-fennel or Mayweed Silene pendula

Eritrichium Tridax

Evening stock Viscaria ccerulea occulata

Fern, Sweet Whitlavia

Gaillardia

It is interesting to note the differences of color in the seeds
of plants. Take for example the aster: a white aster has a

62 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

faintly tinted whitish seed, the pink is a trifle deeper, the
red and purple are a deep brownish tone. The white fox-
glove seeds are white, the purplish red foxglove seeds are al-
most black. The poppy and morning-glory show the same
difference. Many other plants follow this distinction, which
it is well to remember if you buy a package of mixed seed; for
you may pick out the seeds by their different tones, and plant
them separately. I find the same differences exist in the stems
of plants. White varieties are of a pale green — in asters, cos-
mos, columbine and stock; the pink varieties have a slightly
reddish tone, often a mere streaking of color on the stem, while
the red or deep blue or purple varieties have a deep red, ma-
hogany or almost brown stem. If your eye is quick to dis-
cern differences, you can discover these peculiarities while a
plant is still a young seedling.

There are many seeds that are offered only in mixed colors,
yet I have secured pure color from them by planting them in
some corner, and then separating them in the following man-
ner. Among the flowers that bloom first I choose one or more
heads which show great perfection and note the exact color,
tying the stem before the petals fall in order not to lose track
of it. As the later seed-vessels form they are cut off so that
the vitality of the plant may be given to further bloom, and to
that single seed vessel. To maintain pure color, I had to de-
vise some way by which I could distinguish the exact tone rep-
resented by the marked seed-vessels, as well as of these mixed
seeds. First I tied the stems with colored strings, but they
faded; then I fell upon the simple device of using black and
white darning cotton as the least noticeable way to mark a
stem. I cut off short lengths, not over three inches long, and
tie them about the stem close to the seed-vessel according to
the following code. A double tying of white cotton denotes a
pure white variety, and so on.

Seeds 63

CODE FOR MARKING SEEDS

White double white tying

Light pink single white

Deep pink single white and single black

Red single black

Purple double black

Lavender double black and single white

Deep blue double black and double white

Light blue double black and triple white

Deep yellow triple black

Pale yellow triple black and single white

When the seeds are perfectly ripe I gather them on a dry
sunny day and fold each variety in a little square of white
paper after the manner that an apothecary does up a powder,
and either tie it about with a thread, or pin the ends over each
other. There is no scattering of seed if done this way, as there
so often is when put in small envelopes and carelessly sealed.
Each packet is marked with the variety, and its exact color,
as indicated by the tying code, and I get not only exception-
ally strong seed, but I am absolutely sure of my color, pro-
vided the plant reproduces true to itself. Some annuals do
not mature early enough to insure good seed, and these I buy
yearly for new stock.

A word of advice may be permissible regarding the pur-
chase of seeds and plants. It is a matter of economy to buy
from the highest priced, most reputable firms. It costs time
and labor to raise reliable seeds, and if they are offered, as
some firms do, at three cents a package instead of five, you
get only about one sixth the usual amount, and they are not
always true to name, to say nothing of the disappointment and
loss of time given to raising cheap mongrel varieties. Some
plants bear so few seeds that they are necessarily scarce and

64 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

high in price, and the higher the price of a package is, the
more surely you are guaranteed in getting something rare and
difficult to obtain, or an exceptionally fine selected strain.
This is also true of plants. No firm can market strong healthy
plants at retail for less than ten to fifteen cents apiece for the
common varieties, and a correspondingly higher price for
rare ones; and when a plant is offered for five cents, postage
prepaid, it is so small that it is worth about two. Get a few
plants each year from the best house you know, and you will
have in time a collection that is worth while.

I have in mind the futile experiment I have made to secure
Eremurus robustus, that is quoted from two to three dollars a
plant. I could not afford to pay so much, and bought seed at
twenty-five cents a package, and planted them with the
greatest care. They take a whole year to germinate — which
I did not know — and the second year I found six tiny triangu-
lar spears of green where Eremurus was marked. I was very
happy until I discovered that the brown cutworm was also
interested in my collection, and three of them had already met
with an untimely end. I transplanted the remainder at once
from the hotbed — this was before my emancipation from that
snare — and put on a double patrol to guard them. A few days
later two more had yielded up the ghost. I visited my one ewe
lamb at least ten times a day, and it was growing in stature
and wisdom until, about three weeks later, I got out one morn-
ing just after the tooth of the serpent had laid low the sole
survivor. I could have wept, but did not; for I made such a
savage chase for the destroyer that grief was lost in wrath.
Here were two years lost, and I' was just where I began. I
bought more seed and planted again, waited another year for
the seed to germinate, and the next, which was the third
spring, found nineteen little threads of green up. I trans-
planted them and their place was carefully marked, for they

Seeds 65

die down in summer. The fourth spring they were again re-
duced in number to seven — then dwindled to four; and now
after five years of prayerful watching I am still on the waiting
list, for it will take at least four years more for them to mature
to a blooming size: nine years of faithful love for an uncer-
tainty is a sore test for a gardener. Considering that, when
full-grown, the large, fleshy roots are very brittle and perish-
able, and must be packed with the utmost care to transport,
it is evident that a mature Eremurus at three dollars is a bar-
gain. The same thing is true in regard to roses, bulbs, or
shrubs that seem costly; you are paying merely for carefully
selected varieties plus the years of care you are saved in
bringing stock to perfection; and the price is not exorbitant.
In some ways there is great advantage in raising one's own
plants; they are perfectly acclimated; they can be transplanted
under the most favorable conditions, at your own conven-
ience, and plants are saved the long exposure of their roots
to the air during transportation. Aside from these condi-
tions, it is really necessary for one who grows many plants
to know the seed leaves, in order to distinguish flowers from
weeds. There are few things exactly alike in this world, but
it takes an experienced eye to know Hesperis matronalis from
the common wild primrose at an early age, or Lychnis roseum
superbum from sorrel, Gaura Lindheimeri from smartweed,
Nicotiana affinis from mullein, many of the tiny bulb seed-
lings such as Hyacinthus candicans, Eremurus, Dianthus
cruentus and iris from common grass, as well as to identify
at once the little growths that spring up in the walks and
over the garden. I not only know at a glance any bit of
green an inch high of the many varieties I have raised from
seed, but I can very shortly plant it in its proper color bed
with definite certainty merely from the looks of the stem, leaf
or manner of growth. I can tell at the third leaf whether a

66 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

larkspur is blue, white or red; whether sweet-william is rose
pink or red, a morning-glory is white, pink or purple, or a
Lychnis is a pink or red variety, and so on.

It is interesting to note that seed leaves follow very simple
typal forms as a rule, and only later in their life do plants de-
velop their specialized character. Compound, pinnate, pal-
mately cleft and deeply incised leaves often appear only as the
third or fourth pair in a plant. On the other hand a plant
that has been hybridized to take a more complex form often
reverts, if neglected, to the simpler type of the original stock.
This intimate knowledge of plant life is a source of the keenest
pleasure as well as an admirable training in accuracy of ob-
servation. We enjoy things in proportion to the exact and
comprehensive way we see them, and in growing seeds we are
trained in a nice discernment. This knowledge of leaf forms
is also valuable when plants appear in the spring, and it is
necessary to divide perennials for resetting. One does not
know his garden until a leaf tells as much as a flower, or a stem
supplies the missing link. A basket of perennials was sent me
from Connecticut, which represented several things I did not
have. A few were labeled, others I identified by family re-
semblances. One plant puzzled me. Its leaf somewhat re-
sembled Physostegia, but was broader and its manner of
growth did not quite agree with either of my varieties; and
when the buds formed, the compound panicles were four-
grooved while mine were round tapering spikes. One day
when it was three feet high I unconsciously touched the stem
and it felt square, which I had not observed with my eyes, and
my instinct said at once — it is Physostegia, which it proved to
be when it flowered. The feel of plants is as varied as their
leaf or blossom. Succulent leaves, like the Sedum spectabile,
feel cold and clammy, several degrees lower in temperature
than a hollyhock leaf. Some thin smooth leaves are full of

Seeds 67

pores, receiving and discharging moisture, which keep them
cool; while woolly pubescent leaves are much warmer. An
Irishman once called the mullein a canton flannel ivy. Note
the difference of temperature between the leaves of the Clema-
tis paniculata, Lilium speciosum album and Physostegia as
compared with those of the Lychnis coronaria, Anchusa Barre-
lieri, Helianthus mollis, and Rudbeckia. I do not know that
it can be laid down down as a general rule, but it is certainly
true of many plants, that those with rough, woolly leaves suffer
more from heat and drought than those with smooth glossy
ones.

Speaking of one sense supplementing another reminds me
of my belief that the sense of sight is next-door neighbor to the
sense of touch, and each sits on the other's doorstep at times
to receive impressions. The green foliage of the tall late cos-
mos and the tender green depths of a locust-tree give me the
same pleasurable sensation that I get when touching fur or a
silky velvet. I have seen square flat heads on certain people
that feel rough and harsh to the eye.

A DESCENT INTO PARTICULARS

HIS chapter will be dull — dull and useful as work
clothes and garden boots. It would be impossible
to write such a chapter early in May, when all is
joy and beauty, and the heart is light with the ex-
pectation of fulfilling at last the promises of former years. By
the middle of September, one has grown calmer and can see
that a slight gain has been made in definite knowledge; the
purple light of spring has mellowed to russet and tawny
shades; though the horizon of the unachieved has moved but
a little further off, its rim is still supported by fair hopes.
With the summer's successes and failures immediately before
the eyes, one can grasp the situation more clearly, and gen-
eralize a multitude of apparently slightly related facts.

Gardening is not the mere growing of a few pretty flowers,
nor sending a man out to dig and trim, or a maid to gather the
bloom which the chatelaine arranges indoors while she talks
volubly of my garden. Gardening is the gateway through
which we approach another world than ours, a world gov-
erned by inflexible laws, a world made up of units as individ-
ual as human beings are; yet many bear close family resem-
blances by which we trace their ancestry back to a remote
common stock; a world in which some of its members are
rapacious and self-seeking, othersso sensitive and delicate that
any unfavorable condition destroys them; some so prolific that,
if unchecked, they would soon cover the globe; others bearing
but a single child at long intervals; still others sterile and to be
propagated only by cuttings or division of the root.

68

A Descent into Particulars 69

The various talents and gifts observable in the human
family have their equivalent in the way that certain plants
emphasize portions of their organism. In the Venetian su-
mach, or smoke tree (Rhus cotinus) we see the culmination of
the plant in the curious extension and division of the petioles
of the flowers, which is often mistaken for its bloom. Volum-
nia, the goddess of petioles, must preside over its life. In Eu-
phorbia heterophylla and E. pulcherrima, known as Mexican
Fire and poinsettia, the beauty lies in the scarlet bracts that
surround the inconspicuous flowers; in the bittersweet, it is
the scarlet aril surrounding the berry; in the Phy sails Fran-
cheti, or Japanese lantern plant, it is the brilliant red fruiting
calyx. In some plants the chief value is in the foliage, which
may be richly colored, or soft gray, white, or woolly; some
have beautiful seed pods like honesty (Lunaria biennis);
some are prized solely for their fragrance, as mignonette, boy
love, Ambrosia artemesiafolia, sweet fern, lemon verbena.
Some are strange and grotesque in shape, as the Calceolaria
and lady's-slipper.

There are many plants that offend my sensibilities, not only
because of their manner of growth, odor, habits, but they seem
to stand for something distinctly unpleasant or irritating. I
look upon blotched, spotted and streaked flowers as offensive
vulgarians; colored lilies represent bad taste and loud talking
in the floral world. Some do not fulfill the promise of youth,
as, for example, the common mullein. I know of nothing
more alluring than a young mullein unbitten by ambition. Its
low rosette of woolly gray leaves are all that one can desire,
and if it were content to remain a modest tuft, and send up a
straight leafless stalk not over two feet high, and open its
spike of flowers at one time, the mullein would be incompar-
able. As it is, it reminds one of a person of simple worth who
suddenly loses a sense of proportion and drags his unripe vir-

70 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

tues into public view in an undue struggle to make himself
seen and felt in his community. If I were making mulleins, I
should guard their youth more carefully, and check the first
intimation of headiness.

Some plants attract one from the beauty of their names. I
confess this alone prompted me to buy Stephenandraflexuosa,
Zea gracillima variegata, Euphorbia corrolata, Deutzia gracilis,
Amaryllis, Asperula azurea setosa, Armeria formosa. Also
poetic associations led me to appreciate Amaranthus, Laven-
der, Spikenard, Asphodel, Rue, Rosemary.

As a child I observed the invariable use of the correct botan-
ical name of plants by florists and their assistants. A man
might speak broken English and be apparently uneducated,
but he never condescended to use the common name of a
plant. There is an equal reluctance on the part of the general
public to adopt the specific name; they accept any makeshift
in preference, little realizing that any scientific study, if pa-
tiently pursued, shows beneath the dull terminology a vital
principle that relates it with the living world. From this
point of view, the dryest technical name becomes interesting
and significant. They are not mere arbitrary names, but de-
scriptive terms that help one to choose exact varieties: thus
ruber, rubra, coccinea, car dinalis,ful gens, splendens denote red
varieties; albus, alba, albida, nivea, niveus, blanda, candidum
represent white; roseus, rosea are rose colored or pink; c&ru-
lea, ccdestina, azurea, molacea are blue; aureum, aureus,flava,
flavum, luteus, sulphur ea, the yellow; maculata, spotted or
streaked with white; argentea, silvery. Common garden va-
rieties are indicated by hortensis, vulgaris, qfficinalis. Size is
indicated by major or majus, tall; minus, nana, nanus, small.
Moschata, fragrans, odorata, odorissima, suaveolens represent
fragrant varieties. A climbing variety is scandens, while a
creeping one is repens, redinatum. Texture is denoted by

A Descent into Particulars 71

tomentosa, mollis, pubescens, villosa, as downy varieties; hir-
suta, hairy; rugosa, rough; spinosissima, thorny. A spring
variety is verna, vernalis, or vernis ; a summer is cestivalis, an
autumn as autumnalis. The opium poppy is Papaver som-
niferum, literally the sleep-bearing poppy. It takes but a
slight knowledge of Latin to understand the terminology of
the garden, and the Latin name is so much more liquid and
agreeable in its vowel sounds than the English equivalent
that I love the Latin name. As in the best catalogues plants
are thus classified, it is really necessary for the amateur to fa-
miliarize himself with scientific names, which can be done by
referring to a good botany, which gives both the common
name and the Latin.

But we must not linger over this fascinating subject for
there are many other matters that need a word. For example
the fragrance of flowers is seldom given the prominence it
should have. By exercising a little thought, fragrant plants
may be placed at the entrance of a garden, near objects of
interest, or about the seats. There are fragrant flowers for the
whole season, and special attention should be given to secure
fragrant varieties of any species. A sweet odor seems to be
one of the compensations given to certain plants that other-
wise are handicapped by size, obscure color, or little beauty.
What should we care for mignonette, ambrosia, violet, laven-
der, fragrant evening stock if they had no perfume? Some
plants possess every gift of fortune, such 'as roses, white lilies,
lilac and fragrant peonies; but many of our favorites are
loved for their perfume alone. I subjoin lists of the fra-
grant flowers in my garden classified under shrubs, peren-
nials and annuals. By referring to the Appendix, their
time of blooming may be determined. This list does not
include roses.

72 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

FRAGRANT SHRUBS

Boy love

Bush Honeysuckle

Chaste Tree ( Vitex agnus-castus)

Cladastris tinctoria

Clethra alnifolia

Chionanthus Virginicus

Elaagnus canadensis

Lilac

Locust, Honey
Raspberry, Red-flowered
Sumach, Fragrant
Sweetbrier
Sweet-gale
Sweet-scented shrub
Syringa
Weigelia rosea

FRAGRANT PERENNIAL VINES

Clematis, Japanese
Honeysuckle, Belgian

Honeysuckle, Japanese
Polygonum multiftorum

FRAGRANT PERENNIALS

Alyssum saxatile

Arabis albida

Asperula odorata

Asphodel, Yellow

Bouncing Bet

Carnation, Hardy

Clematis heracl&folia, var. Da-

vidiana
Clematis recta
Cyclamen Europ&um
Dianthus Caryophyllus

D. plumarius
Dictamnus
Elder

Erysimum ochralucum
Feverfew

Forget-me-not (in evening)
Galtonia candicans
Galium boreale

G. Mollugo

Gysophila paniculata

Heliotrope, Garden

Hesperis matronalis

Hyacinth

Hyacinth, Musk

Jonquil

Lavender

Lilium auratum

Lily, Yellow Day

Lily, Japan Day (Funkia sub'

cordata)
Lilium speciosum album

L. speciosum rubrum
Lily, St. Bruno's
Lily of the Valley
Lychnis splendens

L. vespertina
Mallow, Musk
Narcissus poeticus var. alba

plena odorata

A Descent into Particulars

73

Paonia, var. Marie Lemoine
P., var. humei earned

Pansy

Phlox paniculata
P. divaricata

Primrose, Evening

Rosemary

Sweet-william

Valerian

Violet

FRAGRANT ANNUALS

Abronia

Alyssum

Ambrosia artemesi&jolia

Bartonia

Bean, Flowering

Candytuft

Cleome pungens

Centaurea, var. Imperialis alba

Cephalipterum ,

Datura

Eritrichium

Fragrant evening stock

Limnanthes

Lupinus mutabilis

L. arboreus

Mandevilla

Martynia

Mignonette

Moonflower

Nasturtium

Nicotiana

Nycterinia

Pansy

Petunia (White)

Scabious

Schizapetalon

Sterna serrata

Stock

Sweet Clover

Sweet Fern

Sweet Pea

Sweet Sultan

Verbena

Verbena, Lemon-scented

Wallflower

Another matter which does not always receive enough at-
tention is the use of green in a garden. Green is the natural
environment of a plant, but we have fallen into a pernicious
habit of crowding together colored bedding plants so solidly in
many of our public parks and boulevards, where flowers are
supposed to have an educational value for the masses, that a
protest should rise against this false idea of beauty. Properly
insulated by green, one can use colors near each other that
would clash if brought immediately together. Take for ex-
ample a red bed: there are but few pure red flowers; they

74 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

range from scarlet and orange scarlet into crimson and bluish
tones of magenta and solferino. The result is fatal if these are
mixed indiscriminately together; but, using the pure red as a
central note, a border may gradually merge either into the
yellow-reds or the purplish-reds, and if plenty of green is used
to separate the plants, the effect is gorgeous. A proper ad-
mixture of light airy plants such as Gypsophila paniculata,
Asperula hexaphylla, Gaura Lindheimeri, meadow rue, gar-
den heliotrope, Sterna serrata, Galium boreale, wild carrot and
caraway will add loveliness to brilliant reds.

A successful red bed, or one of any given color, is not the
product of a season. One must begin by assembling the
plants, and arrange them theoretically; but each year will
witness removals and new combinations. It may be well to
make a note, while plants are still in bloom, of any change to
be made in the autumn; for, in the reconstructing days, de-
tails are apt to be overlooked and plans forgotten. Most
perennials are benefited by occasional lifting, and the larger
the plant, the more likely it is to require division after a few
years. Of course shrubs are exceptions to this rule. If a
number of plants of mixed unknown colors, say of phlox, are
planted at once, they may be marked when they bloom by the
color code I have indicated for marking seeds, and in the au-
tumn can be redistributed according to their precise color.

A most careful study should be made of the character of
plants, their relative size, height, and time of blooming; also
the duration of bloom. Tall plants should be placed in the
rear, and low ones toward the front of beds or borders; or the
tall ones may be planted in the center of large areas. In re-
moving a plant think twice before digging it up, and thrice be-
fore resetting it. Have the new location already prepared,
with a bucket of water at hand, and soil adapted to the needs
of the new occupant dug over and mellowed considerably

A Descent into Particulars 75

lower than the plant is to be set. In removing, loosen the
ground all about a plant or shrub, and if it holds fast, run
your hands down among the roots, and lift them gradually so
as not to break them. Take up earth in a mass about the
roots, if possible, and it is well to water the plant thoroughly
before attempting to remove it, which prevents the earth from
scattering from the roots. Make a puddle of water in the hole,
set in the plant, and draw in the loose soil gradually, working
it in carefully among the roots which should be spread out;
pour on more water and fill up the hole, pressing down the
earth with the hand, or very lightly with the foot. Do not
trample hard, for the roots are often tender or brittle. Reset
the plant as deep as it was before, taking care not to allow the
earth to settle among the stalks in the crown. Make a slight
depression about the plant so that, when watered, the mois-
ture will collect and sink in gradually. By taking these pre-
cautions I have transplanted large specimens in full flower
without the slightest injury. Firmly rooted plants or shrubs
should be lifted after a heavy rain storm when the earth will
be found to be loose and mellow to a great depth.

Ferns add interest to beds of any color. I do not know
their exact botanical names, but I have taken perhaps six va-
rieties of native ferns from the woods, and have disposed them
in various beds with good effect. They may be taken up
either in early spring, or, by cutting back, may be trans-
planted successfully in midsummer, if shaded for a few days
and well watered. Contrary to the common belief, both ferns
and cardinal flower may be given full sun and rather a dry
location, provided the soil is rich. I once had a cardinal
flower given me when in full bloom, and as there seemed little
chance of saving the bloom I took no pains to shade it for a
while; but it bore the change well, continued to blossom and
the following year was greatly increased in height and vigor,

j6 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

notwithstanding it was placed in a dry bed in full sun. Later
a seedling appeared in the hard-baked walk at the edge of a
stone step, and owing to my negligent hoe, escaped infantile
disaster. Through the severe droughts of the past three sea-
sons, it has flourished and bloomed in the dry hard soil, in
full sunshine, the stone over the root being its salvation. It
is almost impossible to tell a cardinal flower from Veronica
spicata when in the seedling state; the only difference being
that the cardinal plant has a leaf of a darker green and less
crenate at the edge. I mention this because the destruction
of young Veronicas is one of my occupations: they lodge at
all seasons in every unguarded place.

Another addition to the green of a garden is obtained from
the first year's growth of the Allegheny vine (Adlumia cir-
rhosa). It is a biennial and does not run as a vine until the
second year; but the first year it makes a low spreading
growth of delicately divided leaves on long slender stems,
much resembling the maidenhair fern, and it is quite as use-
ful as that fern in the arrangement of cut flowers. I espe-
cially recommend the plant for this purpose, and as an equally
beautiful vine the second year. It then dies; but as it is self-
sowing it is permanent when once established. As it does not
root deeply, the first year's growth may be used in a lily bed
with the pink annual larkspur as a shade to the ground. In
an iris bed a cover to the ground may be secured by growing
pansies, either as seeds, which bloom in a few weeks, or set-
ting out the full grown plants. Other plants that root but
lightly are candytuft, sweet alyssum, Clarkia puchella, Scotch
pinks and Helianthemum, and they may be grown in lily or
rose beds. Gladioli are to be recommended for rose beds, as
they require much the same conditions as roses, and do not
shade the ground. I have tried Shirley poppies in a rose bed,
and though they root lightly, they make such a rank growth

JAPANESE CLEMATIS (Clematis paniculata) [P. 72]

VIRGINIA CREEPER AFTER AUTUMN PRUNING [P. 77]

A Descent into Particulars 77

in rich soil that they choke the roses. Some people use peren-
nial phlox among rose bushes so as to carry bloom into the
autumn.

Another useful plant is the hop vine, which transplants
easily, increases rapidly at the root when well established, and
covers a wall, trellis or an arbor with graceful festoons bear-
ing the pale green fruiting calyxes. Among other green vines
the Virginia creeper stands out preeminently for use in a se-
vere climate or exposed situation. It takes some time to get
established, but once started, there is no limit to the growth.
It needs some sun, plenty of fertilizing, as much or little water
as you wish to give, but above everything severe pruning each
autumn, and the result is wonderful. Our cottage is com-
pletely clothed with it, and I give an illustration of the way the
vine looks after pruning in the autumn. It covers the screen
at our front door without interfering with opening the door;
and it is often amusing to see how puzzled people are about
entering through a vine. We also contrived a way to use the
creeper over a trellis built on a back piazza. Holes were cut
in the floor near the house, the vines were drawn up through
them and fastened to the wall and then trained over the trellis,
to give shade to a table where we take our meals al jresco.
The drip from the roof supplies the vines with sufficient mois-
ture, and though they do not thrive as well on this north wall
under such unusual conditions, they make a gradual growth
each year.

There is needless prejudice against covering a shingled or
frame cottage with Virginia creeper, because it is said to rot
the walls. We have found this is not true. Sixteen years ago,
when we took our old house, the frame was newly shingled,
and where the vine is close and thick near the roof, the
shingles are still new and fresh looking; elsewhere they have
turned a silvery gray. The leaves, extending outward, act

78 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

like countless watersheds, and only when they fall do the walls
ever get wet. There are two varieties of Virginia creeper, one
with light green, rather thin leaves, that turn a bright scarlet
in the autumn, the other has heavier glossy dark green leaves
that turn a dark maroon at the edge before frost comes, and
bright crimson later. The second variety is the stronger and
more beautiful of the two.

Adam devised an ingenious use of a dumpheap of rocks and
ddbris, the accumulation of former generations, by having the
stones piled as compactly as possible, and held in place by a
retaining wall. When leveled, he earthed it over, and sowed
it with grass seed, and the result is a broad terraced driveway
across a swale. It is edged with oaks and maples that had
found lodgment in the original heap, and having now at-
tained enormous size, they complete one of the most pictur-
esque features of our premises.

There are three plants that have no value for flowers that
give a delicious perfume to a garden; one, a low herb, whose
trade name is Ambrosia Mexicana, also Southernwood or boy
love, because it seldom bears any flower (Artemesia Abro-
tanum), and sweet fern (Artemesia annua), which grows four
feet high with delicately cut fern-like leaves, small greenish
inconspicuous flowers, and green stems that turn red in au-
tumn. The odor of it is both sweet and aromatic. It is also
said that Kochia scoparia is very attractive as it turns a beau-
tiful red in autumn. I bought it under the name of Belvidere
(Kochia trichophila) which makes the same claim, and either
I got a wrong variety, or something was amiss, for it was not
beautiful at any season.

I have used sumach extensively about the house for the sake
of the beautiful foliage both in summer and autumn: it turns a
flaming red under the first frost. The creamy green flowers
are borne in great panicles, which turn late in September to a

A Descent into Particulars 79

deep crimson. The rose-bug infests the sumach and some-
times strips the bloom to the naked stems. Care should be
taken lest it spread from the root.

The tall cosmos makes a beautiful background for colored
flowers and, though it is so tardy in coming into bloom that it
seldom flowers in the North before the frosts come, its fluffy
green fur is lovely to look upon if one can spare the room to
grow it. A single plant often grows six to eight feet high and
three feet in diameter. I have seen the tall cosmos lifted,
when in full bloom, just before frost, and planted in tubs for
house use. If transplanted carefully, it continues to bloom
until Christmas, a truly wonderful sight.

I find the maidenhair tree (Salisburia adiantifolia, also
sold as Ginkgo biloba) to be entirely hardy. It is from China
and has interesting foliage that resembles the leaves of maid-
enhair fern, triangular and notched at the outer margin. The
fruit is a drupe, and both the fleshy part and the nut are eaten
in China. As the male and female flowers grow on separate
trees, the Chinese plant the two close together so that they are
practically one tree, producing male and female flowers. My
specimen remains a low shrub, though in some portions of the
United States it grows to the size of a large tree.

Brilliant autumn effects, that brighten a garden after a
sharp frost has killed the flowers, are secured through the use
of certain perennials and shrubs. Among the former I note
that the foliage of meadow-rue turns a deep yellow; that of the
Aster Novi-Belgii, which bears a heavy terminal cluster of
rosy lilac flowers with bronze yellow centers, turns a rich pur-
plish rose. Spirea tomentosa becomes orange, orange red and
bronze; Kochia scoparia, a brilliant red; sundrops (CEnothera
fruiticosa, var. splendens) also become a velvety red, as does
Lythrum salicaria.

Among shrubs that turn a fine color are Spirea prunifolia,

8o Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

reddish bronze; Spirea salicifolia, bright yellow green and
reddish; Spirea superba, a rich reddish purple; Spirea Thun-
bergii, reddish yellow; Japanese barberry (Berberis Thun-
bergii), bronze, orange and crimson; Rhodora Canadensis,
red; cinnamon rose, orange and orange red; sumach, deep
red and orange red; Stephenandra flexuosa, bronze yellow;
Ginkgo biloba, a clear yellow; cranberry tree (Viburnum opu-
lus), brilliant red; Japanese snowball (Viburnum plicatum),
red; hobblebush or wayfaring tree, a lovely old rose and claret
color; crape myrtle, a bright scarlet. Among others that are
attractive are Euonymous alata; Kerria Japonica; Itea Vir-
ginica, flowering dogwood (Cornus floridd), shad bush or
Juneberry, and Chionanthus Virginicus. Certain pear-trees
turn a brilliant red or purplish color; and the Japanese peach
becomes an old rose.

Aside from yielding a rich coloring in late autumn, there is
a variety of hardy shrubs and trees that have colored foliage
at all seasons, and these may be planted in groups of single
species with bright green shrubs and evergreens, or in con-
trast with each other, or with reference to herbaceous peren-
nials that bear showy masses of bloom. The following list
will give some idea of the possible effects obtainable from a
few of this desirable class.

BARBERRY. Purple-leaved (Berberis vulgaris, var. atropurpurea). A
rich purple foliage that holds from spring to autumn; very at-
tractive when planted with yellow-leaved shrubs. Give a sunny
position.

BEECH. Purple-leaved (Fagus sylvatica, var. pur pur ea). Said to be
the finest dark leaved tree in cultivation.

BURNING BUSH. Waahoo (Euonymous atropurpureus). 6-14 ft.
Flowers dark purple, showy; leaves a bright green. The fruit is the chief
attraction, becoming in autumn a bright scarlet, and borne in great
abundance so as to cover the tree; hence the name.

ELDER. Golden (Sambucus nigra, var. aurea). A golden yellow

A Descent into Particulars 81

color that does not fade. Give a sunny position, pinch back to induce a
bushy growth.

HAZEL. Purple (Corylus purpureus). 4-6 ft. In early spring the
leaves are almost black, a little later become a dull purple, and so con-
tinue throughout the season. Thrives in dry or moist soil.

HOP HORNBEAM (Ostrya virginica). A small tree of slender form
native to my district; flowers inconspicuous, followed by handsome
fruit resembling the hop clusters, except longer and more slender, that
hang in festoons. Leaves turn orange-brown in autumn.

Itea Virginica. 5-8 ft. Leaves turn from green to scarlet in mid-
summer, and continue so through the season. White flowers in June.

LEAD PLANT (Amorpha canescens). 1-3 ft. Purple flowers in
clustered spikes and whitish or lead-colored foliage.

PEACH. Blood-leaved (Prunus Persica). A variety with blood red
leaves in spring, becoming purple in summer.

SILVER BERRY. Silver Thorn (Elaagnus argentea, also known as
E. Canadensis and E. parvifolia). 6-8 ft. Flowers yellow and fragrant
in August, leaves silvery white, fruit edible, dry and mealy, but esteemed
by many; throws up many suckers.

SMOKE TREE (Rhus cotinus). 4-8 ft. Towards autumn the rosy
flower pedicels make a reddish mist over the entire bush and is mis-
taken for the bloom which comes earlier; foliage turns a rich red.

SPIREA. Golden [Physocarpus (or Spirea) opulifolius, var. aurea].
5-7 ft. A yellow variety especially bright in spring; said to be one of
the best shrubs in cultivation.

SPIREA. Purple-tipped (Spirea superba). A vigorous shrub, that,
during the greater part of the year, is a rich ruddy tone, and during the
summer when the foliage is less vivid, it bears many large flat heads of
red blossoms, so that at all seasons it has a marked beauty.

SUMACH. Fern-leaved (Rhus glabra, var. laciniata}. 3-5 ft. Finely
cut leaves on long stems. If grown with several stalks from a common
root, the interlacing branches resemble a ball of fire in autumn when
the leaves turn a brilliant red.

Any foliage or autumn effects are more striking if the en-
trance of the garden faces the west, and the afternoon sun
shines through the leaves. In arranging a garden, study every
point of view; visit it at its magic hour, and you will see won-

82 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

ders that are not revealed to the common eye. I recall an
episode that occurred in Florida which illustrates this point.
In front of the house we took for the winter stood a live-
oak tree that gave me peculiar pleasure as I walked home at
sunset, and saw its delicate tracery of foliage against a rose-
tinted northwestern sky. I frequently chose that hour to re-
turn in order to enjoy the perfect beauty. I spoke of it so
often, that the owner of the house asked me to show it to her.
I walked her off to the place where it was loveliest, and then
bade her turn around and look. "Why," exclaimed she, "it
is beautiful, but I never saw it before, though I have lived
here twenty years. Indeed I have been on the point of
having that tree cut down, for it looked so ugly from my
window."

An interesting feature of a garden is the use of a succession
of low border plants as an edging. There is no one plant that
will continue to bloom throughout the season, and instead of
using a single variety, try planting three or four that will sup-
plement each other. For example, one may use rock cress
(Arabis alpina), which blooms early in May and alternated
with this the forget-me-not (Myosotis alpestris)^ hardy variety
that blooms later in May, and the Scotch pink, Dianthus
plumarius, that blooms in June, leaving spaces where sweet
alyssum or candytuft may flower during the remainder of the
summer. By this arrangement a flowering edge may be main-
tained throughout the season without lifting or setting out
a plant. I have planted forget-me-not and jEgopodium
varigata just outside the board enclosures of my beds in
the walks, and they completely hide these ugly but useful
boundaries.

For border plants I recommend among blue and purple
perennials; S cilia Siberica, Anemone pulsatilla, pansy and
lady's delight for April; Aubretia deltoides, var. Eyeri, Myo

Dianthus plumarius

[P. 82]

GOUTWEED (sEgopodium varigata) AS A BORDER PLANT [P. 82]

A Descent into Particulars 83

sotis alpestris, var. Victoria, Jacob's ladder, creeping phlox
(Phlox sublata atropurpurea), Russian violets for May and
early June. Campanula turbinata for July. Of the blue an-
nuals there are dwarf varieties of Ageratum, Linaria marroc-
cana, pansy, Nigella, Nolana, Whitlavia, Phacelia, Nemo-
phila for July; and for August most of these are still in bloom
to which may be added verbena.

For a pink edging there are among perennials S cilia nutans,
var. rosea for April; pink forget-me-not, creeping phlox
(phlox sublata) for May. English daisy (Bellis perennis) for
May on through the season. For June, Crucienella stylosa,
maiden pink, Armeria plantaginea, Helianthemum, Japan
pinks (if in their second year), Saponaria ocymoides, sweet-
william, Tunica saxifraga, Verbena montana, which is not
quite hardy with me. Of pink annuals for June are Clarkia,
candytuft; for July, Ageratum, var. Lasseuxii, Abronia um-
bellata grandiflora, the exquisite peach-colored catchfly (Silene
compacta, var. pl.fl.), branching larkspur (if sown the previ-
ous autumn, else it will not bloom until August or even Sep-
tember). Fenzlia (Gilia dianthoides rosea), Saponaria cali-
brica and verbena; for August Vinca rosea.

Among red perennials for an edging are Aubretia deltoides,
var. Leichthinii, tulips and hyacinths for April and May.
For June, Japan pinks, Saponaria ocymoides, var. splendens
and sweet-william, for July, Callirhoe involucrata, coral bells
(Heuchera sanguinea) and dwarf snapdragon. Red annuals
for July as an edging are Adonis cestivalis, mignonette (Re-
seda, var. excelsior), dwarf nasturtium, pinks, portulaca, Col-
lomia coccinea and Verbena, var. Defiance.

Yellow perennials for an edge are crocus and pansy for
April; Adonis vernalis, Alyssum saxatile, var. compacta,
Erysimum puchellum and Iceland poppy for May; for June,
Helianthemum alpestre; for July, sundrops ((Enothera fruti-

84 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

cosa, var. splendens)-, yellow annuals there are for July:
dwarf nasturtium, Abronia areneria, Oxyura chrysanthe-
moides, pansy, portulaca, and dwarf snapdragon. For Au-
gust; Erysimum Perofskianum, Lasthenia Californica, Lim-
nanthes Douglasii.

Of white border perennials are snowdrops and crocus for
April; forget-me-not, lily of the valley, Phlox sublata, var. alba,
Arabis albida, evergreen candytuft, white Iceland poppy and
English daisy for May; Anemone sylvestris, Spirea filipen-
dula, var. pi. fl. (which grows with me but a foot high),
Tiarella cordifolia, Japanese and plumarius pinks, Galium
boreale, thrift or sea-pink, sweet-william, goutweed (Mgopo-
dium varigata), Helianthemum mutabilis for June; and for
July: dwarf white snapdragon. Of white June annuals suit-
able for edging are alyssum, candytuft, cynoglossum, nas-
turtium, Nemophila; for July: Abronia, Ageratum, Silene
armeria, Collinsia bicolor, Eritrichium, Eucharidium, Mesem-
bryanthemum, Nigella, Nycterinia, pansy, pinks, portulaca,
Saponaria calibrica, var. alba, snapdragon (as an annual),
Whitlavia. For August are Callindrinia speciosa alba, Lep-
tosiphon, Gilia androseca and verbena.

The showiest flowers, and in many cases the longest
bloomers, may be classified according to their color and time
of beginning to bloom. The following lists are not exhaus-
tive, merely a suggestion.

BLUE PERENNIALS

APRIL. Hyacinth, lungwort (Merlensia Virginica), scilla.

MAY. Lilac, columbine, German iris, wistaria.

JUNE. Canterbury bells, Spanish and English iris, Lupinus poly-
phyllus, paeony.

JULY. Campanula, Clematis Jackmanni, Japanese iris, larkspur,
Physostegia Virginiana, monkshood, Stokesia cyanea. Veronica spicata,
Platycodon.

A Descent into Particulars 85

AUGUST. Perennial phlox, Erigeron glaucus, climbing monkshood
(Aconitum reclinatum).
SEPTEMBER. Perennial asters, Boltonia latisqnima.

BLUE ANNUALS

JUNE. Bachelor's button, dwarf convolvulus, Nolana.
JULY. Asters, lupines, paeony poppy (lilac).
AUGUST. Browallia, rocket, scabious.

PINK PERENNIALS

APRIL. Hyacinth.

MAY. Japanese flowering crab-apple, peach and plum, lilac, colum-
bine, Eremurus robustus, Lychnis dioica rosea.

JUNE. Roses, Diervilla, Incarvillea Delavayi, foxglove, lupine (Lu-
pinus Douglasi), a cross between the annual and perennial varieties,
Lychnis flos cuculi, oriental poppy, queen of the prairie, sweet-william.

JULY. Mountain laurel, rhododendron, Canterbury bells, hollyhock,
perennial pea.

AUGUST. Perennial phlox, gladiolus, canna, dahlia, lilies, hibiscus.

SEPTEMBER. Japanese anemone, asters, hybrid perpetual roses,
stonecrop, chrysanthemum.

PINK ANNUALS

JUNE. Poppies, Clarkia.
JULY. Asters, Godetia, Lavatera, sweet pea.
AUGUST. Cosmos, larkspurs, scabious, Tridax bicolor rosea, salpi-
glossis.
SEPTEMBER. Late cosmos.

RED PERENNIALS

APRIL and MAY. Tulips, Japan quince, red Japanese peach, colum-
bine, scarlet lychnis, crown imperial.

JUNE. Roses, weigelia, foxglove, lilies, paeony, oriental poppy, sweet-
william, scarlet honeysuckle.

86 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

JULY. Spirea superba, bergamot, cardinal flower, geum, Lythrum
salicaria, trumpet creeper.

AUGUST. Smoke bush, dahlia, gladiolus, hollyhock, phlox, tritoma.
SEPTEMBER. Japanese lantern plant.
OCTOBER. Chrysanthemum.

RED ANNUALS

JUNE. Poppy, scarlet runner bean.

JULY. Amaranthus, aster, cockscomb, nasturtium, phlox, zinnia.

AUGUST. Salpiglossis, scabious.

YELLOW PERENNIALS

APRIL. Crocus, pansy (if in second year).

MAY. Forsythia, columbine, Iceland poppy, jonquil, tulip.

JUNE. Roses, Doronicum Caucasicum, yellow day lily (Hemerocallis
flava), lupine, paeony, Thermopsis Caroliniana.

JULY. Evening primrose, Gaillardia, Hunnemania, rudbeckia, Asclep*
ias tuberosa.

AUGUST. Canna, dahlia, golden glow, hollyhock, Helen flower,
perennial sunflowers.

SEPTEMBER and OCTOBER. Chrysanthemum.

YELLOW ANNUALS

JUNE. Calendula, nasturtium, Eschscholtzia.

JULY. Summer chrysanthemum, marigold, snapdragon.

AUGUST. Sunflower and zinnia.

WHITE PERENNIALS

APRIL. Crocus and snowdrop.

MAY. Bridal wreath, Spirea Van Houttei, fringe-tree, pearl bush,
flowering dogwood, deutzias, lilac, scarlet thorn, columbine, narcissus,
German iris.

JUNE. Locust-tree, roses, snowball-tree, syringa, perennial candy<

AZURE BLUE LARKSPUR

[P. 85]

LILAC P^EONY POPPIES

- 85]

A Descent into Particulars 87

tuft, Paris daisy, foxglove, garden heliotrope, lupine, goatsbeard,
meadow-rue, paeony, Hes peris matronalis.

JULY. Elderberry, bellflower, wild clematis, Chrysanthemum max-
imum, C. latifolium, Japan day lily, Japanese iris, Madonna lily, platy-
codon, Spirea sorbifolia, yucca.

AUGUST. Hydrangea, hibiscus, hollyhock, auratum lily, Lttium
speciosum album, perennial phlox.

SEPTEMBER. Japanese anemone, Clematis paniculata, Polygonum
multiflomm.

OCTOBER. Chrysanthemums, Boltonia, asters.

WHITE ANNUALS

JUNE. Poppy, malope.

JULY. Arctotis, aster, cosmos, gaura, nicotiana, petunia, stock, sweet
pea, snapdragon.
AUGUST. Scabious.
SEPTEMBER. Late cosmos.

I will enumerate a few of the combinations that I have
found successful: Arabis albida with grape hyacinth or Phlox
sublata; perennial candytuft and Lychnis dioica or Mertensia
Virginica; Phlox divaricata and ferns; Jacob's ladder and
white Iceland poppy of the second year's growth; German
iris and blue lupines; white iris and Anchusa Barrelieri; coral
bells and white daisies, annual gypsophila or caraway; ;Ego po-
dium and forget-me-not; white foxglove and yellow day lily;
harebell, dropwort and ferns; white foxglove and perennial
blue larkspur; blue larkspur and meade>w-rue; monkshood
and meadow-rue; Aspemla hexaphylla, Achillea and blue or
pink cornflower; Gypsophila paniculate, or Galium Mollugo
and mallow (Malva sylvestris) ; campanulas and feverfew;
elderberry, monkshood, tall blue larkspur and meadow-rue;
oriental poppy and cinnamon fern; cornflower and candytuft;
pink catchfly and annual gypsophila and candytuft; red Shirley

88 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

poppy with a border of ^Ego podium and ferns; garden helio-
trope and larkspur or monkshood; pink Shirley poppies and
Paris daisy; bee balm and Galium Mollugo or Gypsophila
paniculata; amaranthus and Chrysanthemum maximum and
hydrangea; Veronica spicata and white Physostegia; lilac
Physostegia and white larkspur; star flower (Triteleia laxa)
and Coroni.Ua varia; wild carrot and Rudbeckia or blue lark-
spur; pink mallow and Euphorbia corrolata; Chrysanthemum
maximum and hollyhocks; bouncing Bet and lilac paeony
poppy; nigella, candytuft and annual blue larkspur; pink
branching annual larkspur and the first year's growth of Alle-
gheny vine; perennial white phlox and hydrangea with golden
glow or Helen flower; gaura and cardinal flower; amaran-
thus and early cosmos; pink or red scabious and pink or
white early cosmos; gladiolus and perennial phlox or Japanese
anemone; Stokesia cyanea and Achillea; Aster Novi-Belgii
and blue or lavender Michaelmas daisy and white perennial
phlox or white or blue Boltonia.

It may be objected that a too frequent use of white is made
in the suggested combinations. I can only repeat what I say
elsewhere, that white and green are the best possible foils for
colored flowers, and are indispensable in a garden that ex-
presses delicacy and grace.

There are many plants whose manner of growth does not
lend them easily to general combinations, although the color
may be harmonious; for example: the German iris throws out
a heavy root stock in a circular way, which soon makes an un-
manageable clump; and if divided, to keep it small, it takes a
year, or more, according to the division, for it to bloom again.
Also the Incarvillea Delavayi is surrounded by large radical
leaves that are so admirably adapted as a background for its
tall flower stalks that it needs no other plant as a foil. The
same is true of Archangelica with its great acanthus leaves,

A Descent into Particulars 89

which, of course may be stripped off; yet they lend a peculiar
distinction to the enormous white heads of bloom. In many
instances it is better not to relate plants with others; make a
group of them and let them stand for their own worth.
Plants of slender delicate growth should not be placed in re-
lation with those of sturdy form. Thus Triteleia laxa, which
is lovely with Coronilla varia, would be put out of counte-
nance if planted with Chrysanthemum maximum.

It is well to bear in mind the peculiarity of some plants that
open only in the sunshine or at twilight, for such should not
be given conspicuous position. Among those that open at
nightfall are Nicotiana affinis, evening primrose, Nycterinia
capensis, moonflower, fragrant evening stock, and Hesperis
matronalis, which, though open all day, is only fragrant at
dusk. Among the flowers that open only in sunshine are Ana-
gallis, dwarf convolvulus, Nolana, sun-drop primrose, Cal-
landrinia, Helianthemum, and Mesembryanthemum. Among
those that close at night are some of the perennial asters, La-
vatera, mallow, Malope, oriental poppy, Shirley poppy, cer-
tain pinks, some roses, Rhodanthe; while dog-fennel drops
its petals as if in sleep, and the Arctotis grandis has such an
intermittent way of opening and closing its flowers that I could
not be certain whether it preferred sunny or cloudy weather.

I am often asked if my garden does not take all my time.
It is now a hundred and twenty feet long and sixty feet deep,
representing many yearly extensions and two nursery beds.
I can say very decidedly that it does not. In the spring, when
it is a luxury to dig and play in the sunshine, I sometimes give
whole days to it; at other times, a few hours now and then are
all that I can spare, and in the autumn an occasional day is
devoted to clearing out and resetting; but I should say that the
actual time given averages not more than half a day in a week.
The reason the garden requires such little care is that the

90 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

ground has been thoroughly prepared, and the plants having
been set with reference to their peculiar needs, provide for
themselves. Annuals are grouped in a small area, and re-
quire very slight attention, if the heavens are propitious. My
advice to an amateur is to let a garden follow a natural growth
from small beginnings, and add to it only as you need elbow
room. Half the pleasure in life is to grow and to make
breaches in old horizons. If you begin too ambitiously, ex-
tensions may become a burden, and the more assistance you
require, the less the personal joy. Occasionally I have a man
for half a day to haul cart-loads of various soils to my dump-
ing ground, or to gather stones for new walls; but this is the
extent of my purchasing power, for I prefer to devote funds to
buying choice varieties rather than to employ a man's labor.
However this represents a personal idiosyncrasy of one who
has learned to value the probable Irish ancestor, who has
entailed upon me a wholesome love of work.

In choosing a site for a garden, let it have a southern ex-
posure, or one to the southeast or southwest; get all possible
shelter from the north, northeast and northwest winds and
storms. If procurable in no other way, plant a hedge or wind
break of trees a few yards from the garden, but not so close as
to encroach on the soil. Some trees will run out their roots
for yards in search of water or mellow earth. Choose a place
with natural beauty and some irregularity. Use the defects
as so many opportunities to bring out individual beauty. Un-
less your mind is constitutionally built on straight lines avoid
long straight walks and borders. In marking out curved walks
or beds, lay down a rope or hose to represent the proposed
line, and study your curves from many points. A defect in
curvature may not show from one place yet be obvious from
another. Any undue flattening or bulging of a curve spoils its
contour. Seek to have features of particular interest, to be

SYRINGA BUSH

[P. 86]

BOUNCING BET AND LILAC P^EONY POPPIES [P. 88]

A Descent into Particulars 91

seen at the end of a vista or where walks converge, or as a cen-
tral idea. If, beyond the garden, a distant landscape is of-
fered, study the possibility of having it framed in by branches
of trees. A remarkable example of this is the manner the
Japanese have pictured under innumerable phases their favor-
ite mountain, Fugi-yama, always represented with a tree in
the foreground, enhancing, but not concealing, the view.

Keep the garden closely related to the house, where it may
be enjoyed from the windows or a piazza. If necessary cut a
window down into a door leading out to it. Plant sweet-
scented honeysuckle and other fragrant things where the south
wind, the prevailing quarter in the summer, may blow the
fragrance through the house.

PROPAGATION OF PLANTS

HE first requisite for the propagation and growth
of plants is a suitable soil. Most people take their
soil as they find it, adding much or little dressing
from the barnyard, or patent fertilizers, put in
their plants, and abide by the results, which are, that certain
things flourish well and others quietly disappear. This gentle
disappearance, usually attributed to the weather, the nursery-
man's stock, or pests, is the only protest a plant can utter
against an unsuitable diet. It generally gives a month's
warning that it is about to quit your service when it pines and
droops, and whenever you see a plant grow pale and languid
it is high time to consult authorities. I presume the best
all-around soil is a rich sandy loam, for this is adapted to the
majority of plants. By loam I mean the top soil of pasture
or grass-lands, just under the grass for a few inches. It is full
of fiber, and is the product of decayed vegetation, which has
been incorporated in the earth beneath and has enriched it.
It is generally brown or almost black, finely pulverized and
rich in humus. It varies greatly, owing to the character of the
soil beneath. In low wet lands it is black, heavy and some-
times a little sour, which last condition can be altered by
spreading out a pile of it to the sun and air, and letting it
freeze through a winter. In sandy districts it will be very
light, and will need manuring, and, if procurable, a little clay
and black muck well mixed with it, to give it body. In
gravelly places it will need leaf mold, black muck and per-
haps a little sand. A heavy loam resting on a clay subsoil is

92

Propagation of Plants 93

one of the best conditions, though it is harder to work; but it
will need less fertilizing, will retain moisture and keep fertile
longer than any other. This is a favorable condition for roses.
The basis of all gardens should be loam, with a bottom layer
of turf turned root side up, and other ingredients spread over
the whole area; or, a still better way would be to make a rich
general compost of one half loam mixed with leaf mold, sand,
ashes, well rotted manure in moderate quantity. When this
is well distributed, and dug in, special conditions may be
created where they are needed. In setting out roses more
manure and a little clay may be added directly to the soil
where they are planted. For plants that thrive in sandy soil,
a considerable quantity of sharp sand may be given. Others
require leaf mold to excess, and this may be given. In short
every plant, according to its need, may be provided with its
own peculiar nutriment. It is also well to have a small pile of
general compost to which has been added an equal amount of
well rotted cow or horse manure, and let it stand a whole year
or longer, stirring it from time to time until it is perfectly in-
corporated. After a year or two this may be used on lilies and
gladioli, neither of which will survive if placed in direct con-
tact with fresh manure, yet require a highly enriched soil. If
you have a clay soil your difficulty will be greatly increased, for
it hardens and cakes badly, and you must at any cost add a
quantity of sharp sand to lighten it. Manuring will not do it,
and sand is a necessity. I carefully save the coarse mulch and
leaves removed from the garden in early spring, adding to
them all the fresh refuse of plants, as they 'are trimmed after
flowering, and upon this pile I place a little manure and com-
mon loam. By autumn the bottom of it is resolved into a
finely pulverized soil that makes an ideal fertilizer for plants
when they are reset and prepared for winter. With a good
general compost basis to which other ingredients, previously

94 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

mentioned, have been added where required, one can raise
every variety of plant suited to temperate regions. In the
Appendix I have given the particular kind of soil recom-
mended for the plants named, and it is worth while to give this
subject serious consideration.

There are various methods of propagating plants — the
commonest is from seed; yet I have shown in my chapter on
Seeds, and also in the cultural conditions given in the Appen-
dix, that it is not enough to plant a seed in good soil and
water it. Certain seeds are more exacting than this, and it
is well to give attention to the time of year when it is best
to sow them; also the length of time they retain vitality.
It is not prudent to plant perennial seeds in a cold northern
climate as late as August or the first of September; for if they
come up promptly the little seedlings will not grow large
enough to establish themselves before winter. It is a waste
of time and seed to try it. Either plant them later, so that
they may lie dormant until spring, or wait until spring, unless
you have a cold frame, and can give them attention through
the winter. Seeds that take six months to germinate may
be planted in September or October.

Further, the amateur may not realize it, but the price of
seeds bears a close relation to his probable success with them.
Five-cent packages will prove an excellent training-school for
one, as they represent prolific sure seeders that will grow if
you but throw them out of a window. The ten-cent ones
will survive many ignorances; the fifteen-cent ones require
specific knowledge, while the twenty-five and fifty-cent kinds
are a pure gamble, being seeds of costly hybrid varieties that
are apt to revert, or new acquisitions that may not be entirely
acclimated to our difficult climatic conditions. Do not sow
the whole package at once; seeds have been known not to
come up, and a second and even third trial are often neces-

Propagation of Plants 95

sary. If annuals, a succession of sowings insures a succes-
sion of bloom: but do not sow as I did once: —

I had not much space to give to poppies, and I was delighted
with the idea of succession; so the seed was sown in little
patches, perhaps eight inches apart, and the extra plants
thinned out. When about four inches high I put more Shir-
ley seed in the spaces so as to alternate with the growing
plants. They also came up promptly, but the first planting
became an impenetrable jungle through which no ray of
sunlight penetrated. I was pleased, for I foresaw a pro-
longed thicket of bloom through the summer. By and by
when the first growth showed signs of fading, I began a
search for the successors, and faith! they needed a rescuer
badly. Of all the anemic, attenuated growths I ever reared,
they were the sickliest. In vain to admit them to sun and
air then: they had reached a state of painful decline, and
speedily faded from view. When you plant a succession of
anything, choose a new spot each time, where the plants may
have at least a fighting chance for life.

Remember, however, that when you undertake to raise
perennials from seed, you should have the hope of living
several years; else you may plant and leave it to men, who
shall come after you, to gather the fruit thereof. Happy is
the perennial seed that comes up in less than three or four
months; happy is the perennial seedling that achieves a vigor-
ous tuft of leaves the second year; thrice happy is the owner
of the seedling that grows to a blooming clump the third
year. If you have an incurable malady, either confine your-
self to annuals, or buy full-grown perennials. Only those
in whose veins the life currents pulse strongly, and have confi-
dence in the future, can afford to play with perennial seeds, or
plant young trees. I am willing to gamble with Fate, and
yearly buy the tardy seed, and only resort to the purchase of

96 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

plants when I have failed repeatedly to germinate certain
seeds.

Do not think because you have a perennial garden that
you can set out your plants once for all, and then retire on
the half-pay list. It often takes more strenuous labor to get
a plant out of the ground than it took to put it in. A peren-
nial garden worthy of its name grows like Jack's bean-stalk
and requires division, resetting and bestowal upon the poor
twice a year: not every plant of course; but enough to keep
up a continual exhuming and excavation.

There are various ways of dividing roots, and unless you
know your plant well it is advisable to lift it bodily and hold
an autopsy. Some plants, like the Armerias, make a single
close tuft of leaves and the root cannot be divided safely.
They must be propagated by seeds or cuttings. Others send
out running shoots from the root, each in turn making a sep-
arate root growth of its own, such as the Michaelmas daisy,
garden heliotrope, sweet-william, Physostegia, Bocconia sub-
cor data j Achillea, Boltonia; these can be separated and reset.
Others form huge clumps and must be divided by a spade;
others form a clustered group of separate roots, which need
only to be untwined and set out; the Verbascum for example.
I have tried in the Appendix to cover this point of propaga-
tion by division of the root in its special application to dif-
ferent varieties.

Some plants require layering for their propagation, which
is to bend a branch down to the ground, making a slight
incision in the stem near a bud with a sharp knife, usually
cutting in a slanting direction, pegging it down either with a
hairpin or & small pronged twig so as to keep it in place,
then covering this incision an inch or more deep with sandy
loam. Keep well watered, and in the course of a few weeks,
roots will form at this point, and in six months or a year the

Propagation of Plants 97

branch may be severed from the parent plant and reset.
This is the usual way that Wistaria is increased; also the
honeysuckle and many other plants which I enumerate later.
Sometimes a branch cannot be bent down, and then the
method used is different. A flower-pot or similar receptacle
is cut in two lengthwise; the branch is run through the hole
in the bottom and the two halves of the pot are then tied
firmly together and filled with earth. The incision in the
stem should come well below the surface of the earth in the
pot, and the latter held securely in place by building a tem-
porary support for it to rest on. This is a more difficult
method, though frequently used by nurserymen. The clean
cut partial incision in the stem promotes the formation of roots
at that point, and the root formation may also be facilitated
by scraping the bark lightly where the roots are to form.

Another method of propagation is by cuttings, which may
be taken from the ripe old wood, the half ripened wood or
new green shoots according to the plant. They are set in
sand or sandy loam so as to cover two or three eyes or buds,
allowing from two to six inches of the wood above ground;
they are usually covered with a tumbler or glass jar for a
season to prevent their becoming dry. If kept too moist
they are inclined to rot; but if allowed to become dry, the
delicate rootlets are killed at once. Cuttings should have
little or no sun, for a time; and various devices have been
worked out to promote their rooting well. One of the most
practical suggestions is to take a box, and cut the sides so as
to form a slanting top on which is fitted 'a glass frame. The
box is filled with sand mixed with a little rich loam and the
cuttings set with but one or two eyes above the earth. The
glass cover retains the moisture, and may be lifted a little
each day to admit air. Bottom heat, which may be derived
from manure under the sandy soil, will facilitate growth if the

98 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

weather is very cool. When the cuttings have rooted — and
this takes considerable knowledge and experience to judge
— the little plants may be reset in separate pots; these are
plunged in a box filled with sand, which should be well
watered so that the moisture may be absorbed by the earth
in the little pots. It is a nice undertaking, requiring skill,
watchfulness and good judgment, and the special require-
ments of various plants are too numerous to touch upon, so
I give nothing but a general description of the method.
This is an excellent way to root slips of roses, cut late in the
autumn, and kept through the winter in damp sand in the
cellar, or buried deep under a foot or more of earth in the
garden where they will not freeze. They should be fresh
and green when set in early spring.

Observe another point of importance : there is no one time
when plants should be lifted, divided and reset. Some pre-
fer to move the first of May; others like to be taken when
dead asleep in a dormant condition, just before hard freez-
ing weather sets in, or very early in the spring before growth
begins. I have tried to indicate this in the appendix, as far
as I could learn the choice of plants; but it is a matter for
study and experiment.

There is another delicate question for the gardener to
consider, and that is what sort of protection should be given
to plants in winter — in short, the matter of mulching. I
have known delightfully candid people who frankly asked
what it was to mulch a plant. I like people who want to
know things (provided they do not use that expression of
surprise, "I want to know!"), who are willing to confess that
we come into this life like a desk with pigeon-holed compart-
ments— all empty — to be filled only as we experience loss,
failure and disappointment, unless a fairy presides at birth
and bestows that rare gift of being able to take advice. I

A HEAVY BLANKET OF SNOW FALLS EARLY AND DISAPPEARS

LATE [P. 99]

A BOUNTIFUL BED FULL OF VIGOROUS P-^EONY POPPIES [P. 102]

Propagation of Plants 99

presume this reluctance to take another's experience is
Nature's way of enforcing her truths upon each individual,
for nothing is really ours until we have made personal proof
of it.

To come back to those who timidly confess that the com-
partment of knowledge labeled "mulch" is empty. Mulch
is half-rotten straw, hay or like substance with which plants
are covered to prevent the alternate thawing and freezing
of winter. It is also placed in summer about the roots of
certain plants that suffer from drought, to keep the ground
moist. In our severe winters only a slight mulch is needed;
for a heavy blanket of snow, which falls early and disappears
late takes its place, and when the ground once freezes, it
remains frozen. Mulch is not so much to keep the ground
from freezing as to prevent the alternate action of thaw and
freeze, which not only throws the roots of plants out of the
ground, but allows a plant to awake to life only to be nipped
by the next freeze. Mulch prevents the sunlight from get-
ting to the earth, and keeps it frozen until warm weather
arrives.

Various things are used as mulch. Coarse manure, which
gives the best protection from cold, also promotes an unsea-
sonable growth, owing to its heat. It must be banked high
over tea-roses and hybrid teas, also spread from six inches to
a foot deep over some lilies; but for most plants I think it a
very questionable thing to use, except in great moderation.
One of the best mulches is coarse straw, hay or grass, pro-
vided it is free from weeds. It is light, porous and effectual.
Another good mulch is leaves, provided they are not put on
deeper than three to five inches. They mat down closely
when wet, and will suffocate plants if too heavy.

Another mulch is pine boughs, or other evergreens. We
have these in abundance and Adam finds them invaluable

ioo Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

for covering the strawberry beds. One winter I used them
in great quantities, covering every bed deep with them,
after a heavy snow fall, and it proved the most disastrous
winter in my experience. The field mice got in, made nests
of the needles, subsisted on a mixed diet of resin from the
pine, larkspur crowns, iris leaves, the bark of shrubs. The
pine needles were gnawed off and strewn thick over the entire
garden. I may be reasoning from a false premise, but I
have laid my heavy losses that winter to the score of pine
boughs, as it was the only winter I ever was troubled with
mice, and the only time I ever used pine boughs to any extent.
Some plants are said to be benefited by a heavy mulch of
coal ashes, such as hollyhocks, larkspurs; but I notice this
advice proceeds from the vicinity of New York and New
Jersey where the winters are more open and trying to plant
life than they are in my region. In reviewing my various
experiments, I find the best results came from allowing a
thin layer of leaves to settle over the beds, as they were blown
about in the autumn, adding them where too thinly spread,
holding them in place by slender sticks or the stalks of tall
perennials, and after the first snow fall, which serves as a
blanket, I spread a very thin coating of strawy manure over
the snow. This gives a three-ply covering, each very slight,
but the protection is perfect as the snow does not melt under
the manure until early April, unless it rains. In the winter
of 1906- '07, the most severe on record, I did not lose a
single plant under this treatment. It cannot be depended
on save in regions where the snow lies deep all winter. How-
ever, it is not the actual cold that kills hardy things: it is the
unseasonable warm day that prematurely starts growth; and
anything that can prevent this, gives protection. In warmer
latitudes than mine people have great trouble in raising
young hollyhocks, perennial poppies and white larkspurs,

Propagation of Plants .,,„.,,.,,,. J.QI .

because the little plants winter-kill. I have never lost a
single one at this stage, even if they were growing astray in
the walks, quite unprotected by mulch — but it is all due to
the deep snow. In removing mulch in the spring, do it
gradually, to avoid the results of heavy spring frosts at night.

It makes considerable difference where certain plants are
set. The Montbretia is quoted as a tender bulb, which
requires lifting and storing in the cellar during winter. I
have carried mine through several winters successfully, when
planted in the main lower garden, in a sheltered position,
though I have lost others twice when they were planted on an
elevated terrace within a foot of the outside stone wall.
Give tender things a sheltered corner, and perhaps a pine
bough or two, or better still place a barrel or box over them
filling it with leaves. I attempted this treatment with a Cher-
okee rose brought from Florida, but I failed to place manure
about the roots first, though the leaves were piled to the top
of the box when I left in early winter; on my return they had
melted down to four or five inches. The consequence was
I lost all but a single shoot of my rose. I ought also to have
put a cover on the box. I forgot to mulch it in any way the
next winter, and lost it entirely, though I have carried Florida
honeysuckle through three winters without much attention.
As I look back I seem to have made every mistake possible
to ignorance. But, given every possible mistake, one is bound
to learn considerable as the years go by. Tender roses and
shrubs should be tied up in straw, but I do not try to grow
things that have to be coddled.

Under the propagation of plants comes the very essential
question of how close plants should be set together. There
are different opinions about this matter, and I have tried all
sorts of ways, and find in a dry climate such as mine, that
close planting is a necessity. For annuals of tall slender

lost Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

growth such as asters, cosmos, Gaura, Tridax, Phlox Drum-
mondii, mallows and the annual larkspurs I allow but four or
five inches between the plants. If a plant is bushy as Ca-
lendula, Lavatera, Shirley poppy, cornflower, saponaria, mar-
tynia, allowance must be made for a reasonable spread of
foliage, and from six to eight inches will be ample. Where
plants are close, they shade their own roots, their leaves pre-
vent evaporation of moisture, and the sun does not dry out the
ground. I like to see bountiful beds full of vigorous growth
with no earth showing between.

The same treatment applies to perennials. Those of slen-
der erect habit require but a few inches of space if the ground
be rich; and even those of coarse spreading foliage like the
Incarvillea, larkspurs, garden heliotrope, hollyhock, Helian-
thus and foxglove can be grown close to each other if the
lower leaves are removed to make room for each other. If
the overlapping foliage covers the ground too much, it pre-
vents the rain from reaching the roots. A little experience
will show how far a stripping of foliage may be carried.

Another value of close planting is that in beds where a
succession of bloom is desired, the early plants are in full
bloom while the later ones are still very small. By continu-
ally trimming out and cutting down plants after flowering,
others coming later have a chance to spread their upper
branches freely over the same area; and by preventing the
seed-vessels from forming, the vitality goes into root growth.
Once in a while stripping off the lower foliage is disastrous.
For example, I once wanted more room in a pink bed,
and cut off a number of lower leaves of the Ulmaria rubra
venuista. To my dismay I saw later what destruction I had
wrought; for out of these first leaves spring the tall stem that
bears the beautiful peach-colored head of bloom, and unwit-
tingly I had destroyed the blossoms for that year, save on a sin-

Propagation of Plants 103

gle stalk which I had left untouched. The loss was irrepara-
ble as the Ulmaria is one of the most beautiful of my plants.

Another mistake easy to make is to overlook the position of
certain plants that are late in springing to life. One spring I
watched vainly for my Incarvillea to come up, and not finding
it, I thrust in a sharp little pointed trowel to remove a spirea
growing near by, and, to my horror, I pierced the Incarvillea
to its very heart. It was as cruel to me as if I had maimed a
human being. I muttered many incantations over it, gave it
massage and absent treatments, and prayed my guardian an-
gel (I only know I have one in times of sore need) to heal the
wound. The plant lived, but it is a cripple for life. The
Dodecathon media, Mertensia Virginica and Liatris are also
late in coming up, and these I mark with tall stakes so as not
to mistake the places where they are planted.

Certain plants attain an unruly height and need special
treatment. Among these are the golden glow, Helenium au-
tumnale superbum, some of the perennial varieties of Helian-
thus, Boltonia and the perennial phlox. When these are less
than a foot high, nip off the tips of the plant. They will then
branch freely and grow perhaps four feet instead of six or
seven. This retards the blooming a little and perhaps makes
the flowers smaller, but there will be more of them. In treat-
ing phlox thus, a longer season of bloom may be secured
by nipping some and allowing the others to grow. The un-
nipped ones will bloom perhaps two weeks earlier than those
cut off.

After a bed is planted, do not think your responsibility is
over for that season. Whenever you have a leisure hour, take
a hand fork, a small implement with three flat tines, and stir
the ground about the roots of plants. This is particularly
needed if the season is dry, for it opens the ground to catch
any slight rain that does fall — Adam calls them vague little

104 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

showerettes — and the loose top soil not only absorbs moisture
from the air and the night dews, but it acts as a mulch to the
earth below. If you want to force any plant along, stir in a
little ashes, manure or fertilizer, and then water well. The
subject of water and watering is a serious problem with me.
When the heavens are brazen, and the well is almost dry, and
famine is sore in the land, my whole heart goes out to the suf-
ferers. I then follow the advice of wise gardeners, and after
stirring the soil well, I water as much area as I can thoroughly,
and let that portion go for days while I relieve others. Par-
ticularly do I water those in full bloom, or those about to
bloom. I also place a thick mulch of grass clippings about
the roots of those plants that suffer from drought: gladiolus,
tritoma, larkspur, hollyhock. I have found the earth moist
under this mulch a week after it has had a good drenching.
A valuable help is the waste water from the Monday wash
tubs, provided no washing powders, borax or turpentine has
been used in the laundry. Also the water from jars in the
bed chambers may be given as a fertilizer to roses, vines and
shrubbery. But the chief point is to keep the soil light and
porous and every drop given has full value. When I go about
the garden in a pitiful mood, singling out extreme cases as re-
cipients for my restricted bounty, my heart yearns for those
that lie just beyond the water limits. One year when the well
went almost dry, the suffering was so extreme that I could not
bear the sight of it, and I did not go near the garden for weeks.
All the more cruel is it when a shower will carry over the gar-
den for days, and a heavy rain suffices for two weeks.

One evening when plying my ineffectual watering-pot, I
observed to Adam: "What generous agricultural methods
Nature has! When she waters her charges she descends upon
vast areas; she does not single out a township or even a State
for her bounty, but she can cover half a continent. In the

Propagation of Plants 105

same way when I painfully rake up my walks, I note the large
way she sweeps a whole hillside with one touch of her winds.
I love her magnificent operations. They are superb, inimi-
table, perfect!'7

Adam was in a critical mood. " I think she is very imper-
fect," he responded. " She needs a man. Unaided she works
in a blundering brutal way: she averages well: her cloud-
bursts and washouts and her parching droughts give us a
fairly uniform average rainfall. Remember she wrecks and
destroys as well as vivifies. She is a great extremist. She is
far from perfect," — and he spoke as a man who had thrown
down the gauntlet.

I, who am a blind and ardent worshipper of Nature,
dropped down into the arena and picked up the glove. " How
so?" I inquired, determined that he should make good his
charge.

"Her great cosmic laws are not applicable to the individual.
She is a wild untamable force. She does not strive for per-
fection. Where do you find a perfect plant, or even a perfect
leaf? She begins well, but grows absent-minded about de-
tails," continued he, warming to the argument.

"How about the exquisite and perfect mechanisms re-
vealed by the microscope? It opens a whole world of unap-
proachable beauty, harmony and symmetry," I questioned.

"That may be true," replied he, "but her vast forces on one
hand and her minute details on the other reveal also the very
painful gap that lies between. Given perfect atoms and per-
fect forces, we should have perfect creations, which we cer-
tainly don't have: something is wrong. Nature unaided
blunders sadly. Nature plus man is Art; Nature plus man is
Progress; Nature plus an able assistant produces a relative
approach to perfection. For example: compare wild natural
fruit with the Spitzenberg apple or the Albemarle pippin; the

106 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

wild strawberry with the Belmont; or to come on to your own
ground, compare the common wild rose with your fine garden
roses — the Sharman-Crawford, the Mrs. John Laing."

" Mere hybrids — all of them," I defended. " Man destroys
the balance utterly. He sacrifices everything to size and
color. We think them beautiful, but are they? Man is
blighting with his megalomania all fruits, increasingly beauti-
ful to look upon, but with less and less flavor. How about the
Ben Davis apple, the Keifer pear ? Man's flowers have color,
but no fragrance; size, but no fertility. A modern rose has no
seed; it has to be budded to be reproduced. Man sacrifices
all proportion to attain any given end, whether he breeds
poultry, cattle, fruits or flowers; he weakens the vitality and
makes them a prey to a thousand civilized pests. Do you
call that perfection ? But has not Nature herself provided the
peculiar condition that man merely seizes upon to exaggerate ?
If you call it utility I grant it. Man has learned to take an ac-
cidental sport of Nature, and by artificial means to reproduce
it. She furnishes both the sport and the man of wit to use it,
but the moment he relaxes his vigilance Hybrid Perpetual
roses revert to the manetti, the original stock upon which
they were budded; the suckers below the graft of Spitzen-
berg apples revert to wild stock; highly civilized nations are
becoming sterile."

Adam is as little convinced by my defense as I am by his
arraignment. I find ample corroboration of his point of view
on every hand. Every where I come close to the defeats and
imperfect types that Nature casts aside as if they were broken
experimental molds, not quite adapted to her use of them as
final expressions or manifestations of Spirit; yet, when I close
my eyes to the outward form and meditate on the purpose of
creation, and Nature's ideals in her use of matter, I hear faith
singing low in my heart, and I know that all is well.

VICES OF PLANTS

F criminologists would make an exhaustive study
of plant life, they would find the sources from
which many roots of evil spring. The human so-
cial fabric has a close analogy to the floral world,
and much becomes clear when viewed in rudimentary forms.
I do not know which way to refer the resemblance — that
plants are so human in their character and expression, or
human beings so plant-like. Perhaps the latter is the more
logical to students of evolution. Plants have simple, ele-
mental vices. They show rapacity, improvidence, caprice,
selfishness, sloth, arrogant self-seeking and profligacy. It
has been reserved for the human race to develop the meaner,
petty vices — jealousy, anger, slander, envy, pride and ingrati-
tude : of these an honest self-respecting plant is incapable.

For example, predatory wealth finds an equivalent in rapa-
cious plants that make not only a vigorous central growth, but
reach out on every side to establish branch offices where they
install children and grandchildren with incredible speed; who
absorb all the nutriment within many feet, and try to choke
out those who dispute their territory. The progenitors of
rascally railroad presidents, sinecure officials, commercial
monopolists are descendants of the original sinners in the gar-
den of Eden, the Michaelmas daisy, Achillea, perennial as-
ters, garden heliotrope, Helianthus latifolius, Virginia creeper,
Calystegia, bouncing Bet and hawkbit. Let but a single
one of these prototypes of greedy financiers get a firm hold
in your garden, and certain notorious oil monopolies are con-

107

io8 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

servative compared with it. The only thing to be done with
either the floral or human type is to keep it moving. They
best serve utility when not allowed to get thoroughly estab-
lished. Both destroy a large portion of the social fabric when
an effort is made to uproot them, for their ramifications are so
complete that they underlie many innocent victims. I rep-
resent a generous distributor of this unlawful wealth. I be-
stow not millions — for plants have not evolved to that degree
of debasement — but bushels of it on young struggling gar-
deners that need endowment, as I am determined to die poor
in daisies, heliotrope and hawkbit. Whenever I hear of a new
opportunity to play the generous benefactor, I unload my
surplus — never quite able to impoverish myself, however. I
attach no condition that an equal amount shall be raised by
the recipient before the gift is forwarded. It is not that helio-
trope, Calystegia and daisies are not good — nor dollars; it is
merely a question how much of a burden of plants or dollars
one can carry without inconvenience and impoverishment in
other directions.

The pauper poor, with their irresponsibly prolific families,
are but the human form of those improvident plants that shed
their too fertile seed in every direction. If the population is
restricted in either case to a reasonable limit, where society
can provide for the children, they become excellent citizens.
Otherwise they are flung out on the cruel world without suit-
able provision, and either the mortality is great — Nature's kind
and universal way of disposing of a surplus — or both are forced
to emigrate to find lodging for the ever increasing hordes. My
orphanages, almshouses and foreign colonies are very shady
unsanitary spots down by a brook, also the sides of the lane,
where both diet and shelter are precarious, owing to the fact
that that corner of the world is a regular slum district, already
crowded with hungry trees and underbrush looking for work,

Vices of Plants 109

and but scanty rations are accorded either to old residents or
the new-comer. I try to play a Guardian of the Poor to these
too-numerous waifs, and I know the difficulty of finding
good Christian homes for the progeny of Lychnis dioica rosea,
Veronica spicata, Digitalis purpurea, Aquilegia vulgaris, Rud-
beckia, Chrysanthemum parthenium. Chrysanthemum maxi-
mum, all illustrious families found in every Florist's Blue
Book. I try to build model tenements to accommodate the
most promising of them in the annual construction of new
beds, but I cannot keep pace with the teeming population,
and for want of sufficient ground space, may have to devise
hanging gardens eighteen stories high — garden-scrapers shall
I call them ? I should like to communicate with any one in
possession of the original working plans of the hanging gar-
dens of Babylon, for though they may be somewhat old-fash-
ioned, yet they may furnish good ideas. I always prick up ears
when Asa Gray mentions any plant as "cultivated in choice
gardens," certainly a patent of floral nobility. I now believe a
choice garden represents the aristocratic inner circle, the elite,
a condition where the undesirable proletariat, the free seeders,
are strictly excluded. Surely that is high society that has
no poor relations, no unsought younger sons, no Botany Bay.
Some plants are valetudinarians, tender of constitution,
with crochety appetities; and if the table prepared for them
is not to their liking, they die of disapproval. Lilies are ex-
amples of this caprice. They like rich food, the richer the
better, but it must be predigested, as it were. They require a
heavily manured soil, further enriched with leaf mold; but
it must be prepared a year or two in advance, and then they
must be carefully insulated from it by a generous environment
of sand. Their conduct reminds me of delicate ladies who
pretend to nibble at the table, and gorge unseen from the
pantry shelf. Would it be surprising, after eons of such cod-

i io Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

dling, if lilies reappeared as capricious spoiled darlings of
fortune? Even as lilies, they toil not, neither do they spin,
and what can we expect, when, from the first, the moral edu-
cation is neglected ?

Certain plants are of singularly frail constitution, and
though they may buffet the storms of life for a while they
take cold easily, and all is over with them. I had a Spirea
astilbe, that survived two winters, and was progressing to
beautiful planthood. One spring night when Astilbe,

" was in thought
To brave its blossoms to the air,"

an unusual frost overtook it. At first I thought it but a
severe cold, and that a little doctoring would restore health;
but it grew steadily weaker, and by another winter "it was
laid away," to use the pious euphemism for plain dying. The
feverfew also has weak lungs and is sadly afflicted by a frosty
spring night. It develops an irritating cough in the form of
leaves that turn brown in a single night, which it perversely
carries about with it long after it begins to flower, as if to
remind you of your neglect.

It always interested me to note the cold-blooded attitude
of political economists in the matter of the death of the indi-
vidual, who had been reared to an age of self-support, and
then thwarted the best interests of the commonwealth by
carelessly dying. Their statistics make no mention of what
that loss is to the father's heart, nor of the mother's tears:
that death, or any death, before the individual earns enough
to make full return for his keep, is so much needless loss to
the State. If economists had their way, all persons at the
age of four years would be compelled to give bond to live
until fifty at least, or make a heavy restitution. I am com-
pelled to take this same view of my plants, when, forgetful

GOLDEN GLOW AGAINST GRAY SHINGLES [P. 103]

Hydrangea paniculata

[P. HI]

Vices of Plants in

of the care given during infancy, the cost of transportation,
plus the nurseryman's modest profit, a plant repudiates its
debt to the past, and disappears from pure sloth. Of course
it is easier to die than to live, sometimes. We all know,
when beset with the thorns of life, how cool and inviting the
ground is six feet down; but we are trained to the moral
obligation to live, and live we do, in the face of fire, flood
and disaster of every sort, if we are plucky and Atropos keeps
her shears in her pocket. As a product of commercial enter-
prise plants have no right to shirk duty and go into bank-
ruptcy; or worse, to disappear altogether. Do they commit
suicide, or abscond, for they take every available asset with
them? To what refuge do they flee? Yes, I know my
remarks are growing pointed, and I mean to go still further
and name as a chief offender the Lilium auratum, long recog-
nized as a garden absconder, and lovely pale pink Pyrethrum
bore it company. Among the idle loafers who ate and drank
heartily at my table two summers ago and made no return
were Lilium candidum — true they were planted in a place
too wet and shady, but what of that? — Funkia subcordata,
Hydrangea paniculata, only recently turned into a slothful
vagabond, tritoma, Japanese iris, Stachys lantana, lusty look-
ing Canterbury bells, two-year-old pentstemons and gerar-
dias — all went out on a strike, and their labor had to be
done by overworked annuals. Even a wee abortive blossom
would have shown a good intention. True it was a cold
summer, but sometimes one has to work to keep warm.
Given a worm at its root — which is a plant's- heart — a lawful
disease, the destroying hand of Fate in the form of drought,
or ripe old age, it is right that a plant shall die— let it first
discharge its debt of bloom to the race; but no word of exten-
uation can be said of the plant that sulks and won't work.
For this cause came it into the world.

ii2 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

I have long pondered the question of when a plant actually
dies. Surely not when its stalk is cut, for often the severed
stalk holds its bloom and opens new buds for days after.
Your arm makes no growth when it is cut off; so here is a
new condition. Growth is the accompaniment of life and
life is but a manifestation of the Spirit: but where does the
Spirit reside ? Both root and stalk may grow when the latter
is severed, and single buds may be stripped from the stalk
and later open into flower. At what point then does the
residing Spirit wholly withdraw itself so that we may say,
it is dead? Because I cannot answer this question, cut
flowers become a painful responsibility to me. As long as
there is a semblance of life in a single blossom, it is still a
precious abode of divine energy, and the sad obsequy of
throwing away cut flowers devolves upon Adam, who has a
reasonable dislike of faded, offensive things. I want to be
very sure that decomposition has set in, as that is our only
proof of death, before I consign it to a final resting-place
under a lilac bush : it is torture to see it cremated.

Once I had to wait at a railroad station for a delayed train,
and I studied the condition of life and death presented in the
form of a lively locust-tree growing by the side of a telegraph
pole. First I noticed the points of correspondence between
the two, their contact with the soil, both were subject to the
influence of the elements, both were alike in a woody tissue,
in erect position, and equal in height. Ah, but the differ-
ences! One was stiff and inert, a rigid monument of an
outlived past; the other lightly bent and swayed with every
wind. Responding to its environment the tree sent forth its
tender green leaves in friendly greeting to sun and rain,
while to the pole the elements were consuming enemies
slowly gnawing with relentless tooth. One represented
growth, progress and reproduction, every fiber was instinct

Vices of Plants 113

with life; the other was the consummation of death in all its
grim nude ugliness. Was a dim sense of brotherhood pos-
sible between these two widely separated creations? Can
the wildest imagination of a tree ever foresee itself builded
into floors, timbers, into temples, or ships, or railroad ties?
Is the lumber pile ignominy, or the destiny coveted of trees;
and do they feel thwarted in their life work when they merely
fulfil the life purpose, and are not used in constructive ways ?
Men are not happy merely to live; they must express them-
selves in one way or another. Is it a disgrace in a forest to
fall from old age? Are there vague stirrings of aim and
ambition in the heart of trees ? What is their secret feeling
toward storms, the winter cold and winds ? The train came
too soon for me to answer the questions that arose, but I felt
it had been good to have sat for an hour, trying to interpret
their silent council.

I have wandered far afield, and must return to depict vice
as I find it. Some plants have low instincts and attract to
themselves bad associates. If you are in the detective ser-
vice and want to track the rosebug, visit the seemingly
respectable garden heliotrope, any of the Spireas, the Asper-
ula hexaphylla, and you will find him feasting at the table
of your favorites like a ban muant. If you want to entrap
the green aphis send an investigating committee unawares
to the tips of your choicest roses or gaura; — if you would
arrest the potato-bug, set a spy on the nicotiana. I like
not this company, and shall not further enumerate the black-
legs of the garden, for you will find them duly pictured in
the Rogue's Gallery under the title of Mine Enemies. I
merely mention the fact that some plants are leading a double
life, and consort with very questionable companions.

Then there are plants with bad habits. Whether they eat
too much, or drink too much, or it is due to some other

H4 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

indiscretion, they are an easy prey to disease. Else why
should a larkspur of healthy parentage suddenly fall ill with
a bilious attack of blight ? Why should certain roses and the
Michaelmas daisy suddenly break out with an eruption of
mildew, as disfiguring a disease as smallpox ? Why should
robust hollyhocks fall like an apoplectic patient under the
rust? Why should white larkspurs develop a cancerous
condition in their young crowns, which learned practitioners
call "the rot"? I advise an abstemious diet for the young;
for one has no right to be a promoter of disease and become
a peril to society.

The prototype of the social climber is the vine that clutches
at anything higher than itself for a support, and uses every-
thing but as a stepping-stone to further its advancement in
the world. Doubtless we have all come the way of the vine
through our remote past, for I have seen several varieties of
forest trees, lying on the ground, denuded of their bark, and
the twining propensities had not yet been outlived, for the
grain of the fiber of the trunk still distinctly showed the
spiral tendency. We are further advanced from the tree
than the tree is from the vine, and it is high time that the race
left this ignoble heritage of the past behind. Any one who
has seen a vine strangle the life that helps it to mount higher,
and then cut its acquaintance to gain another foothold, loyal
to none, hurtful to all in its wolfish aggressions, must have
an intense scorn for the social climber, who uses the same
cruel methods, destroying a friend who has once served;
whose only passion is to push a claim of rapacious arrogance
at any cost.

Compared with this type I love the one I am about to
describe — beggars. I discover beggary running far back of
human annals; for in the weeds of the garden I see the fore-
shadowing of the outstretched palm, the avoidance of re-

Vices of Plants 115

sponsibility, the shameless effrontery of the lazzaroni. Any
squalid corner will do for a weed — a crevice in a stone, a
cranny in a wall, while they flaunt themselves unblushingly
in good soil. They are sun-loving brothers, running rampant
if unchecked, yet thankful for the slightest foothold, willing
to share even an inch of ground with any flower — their grat-
itude lifts them above the vicious outcast. My feeling toward
the weed is indifference rather than dislike, for I grow so
many flowers in a limited space, that the weed has but small
chance. Sorrel is the most persistent mendicant, yet it is
never defiant; then I have an occasional plantain, here and
there an isolated grass stalk, and perhaps a morsel of chick-
weed and smartweed, and occasionally a sporadic case of
purslane. While they respect the flower beds, they do hold
mass-meetings in my walks, and every representative becomes
a walking delegate, and they march in processions ten abreast
until Adam steps in to quell the riot.

I ought to have a very kindly spirit toward weeds since they
have given me many a happy hour, for weeding is my pleasant
excuse to linger in the garden. I have even a mild sense of
wrong when I root out here and there plants, commonly called
weeds, simply because they bear no beautiful blossom, and I
speedily pass from this unpleasant task to the removing of
withered leaves or seed vessels from my plants, cutting back
those that have bloomed, to make room for others waiting
their chance to occupy the middle of the stage; then I turn to
one needing a stake, or another that is worthy of being pulled
forward into prominence, and I arrange and rearrange them
as one does cut flowers. I linger long anc( lovingly over this
grooming process, much as the fond mother detains impatient
little Mary to pat and caress her bow of ribbon after it is once
tied. A touch here, a removal there, another weed destroyed,
a moment of leisure in which I pause to catch the glory of

ii6 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

earth and sky — how the morning has sped away without a
thought or care of fleeting hours and neglected duties! What
a glorious waste of time weeding is ! I only truly live when un-
conscious of existence.

I have come to know my weakness, and unless prepared to
give up my whole morning, I go no farther than the doorstep ;
and even here I dare not linger long, so great is the entice-
ment. It is this affectionate attention that tells in a garden.
Any brief neglect shows itself in decay and disorder, especially
if the season be too wet or too dry. One must not only care
for the living, but provide for the dead, and the friendly per-
sistent weeds ever draw me forth and spur me on to duty.

To my mind the worst offenders are the wantons that cross-
fertilize with anything. From their choicest selected stock
will spring mongrel types of the most aggravating colors.
Among this debased class I name the sweet-william, colum-
bine, the hollyhock, the paeony poppy (sometimes). I well
recall the care and two years' nurture I gave the seeds of a
very beautiful cardinal red sweet-william. The third year it
had reached the blooming period, and had been set out every-
where to replace a deep rose pink variety. To my disgust,
the new plants proved every coloring known in sweet-william's
calendar save pure red. Some wore prison stripes, some had
red eyes, some were "straked and pied"; since then sweet
willie has played me every sort of trick until I learned to snare
him by taking a single plant that is particularly beautiful, and
propagating by division of the root. I have even failed in this,
for a plant singled out for its beauty, should be cut back the
moment it breaks into bloom so as to throw its whole life into
the root; and twice I have lost a very lovely tone of warm old
rose, because I loved the bloom too well to cut it off, and the
plant exhausted itself in flowering and died. One has to
practice much self-denial in gardening.

Vices of Plants 117

While I believe plants have their likes and dislikes — I can't
imagine the hothouse heliotrope having a regard for a tiger-
lily — and some prefer to die rather than endure uncongenial
society, I see no evidence that plants show the least germ of
morality. They have not yet arrived at any nice discrimina-
tion between plant and plant as we see it between man and
man. Perhaps this is why the garden is so smiling and con-
tented. I find no trace of servility, malice, no bitterness of
speech. Happy is that state of existence where vice and vir-
tue are still but future, unrecognized possibilities.

MINE ENEMIES

[ERE is a certain cult that tells us with an air of
superiority that " our enemies are those with whom
we have failed." I was inclined to question this
large way of throwing the blame upon the inno-
cent sufferer, but the garden sustains the New Philosophy; for
surely my garden pests are but so many examples of my negli-
gence, ignorance or tender heart.

When I first began gardening I should have put the tender
heart first on the list, for my early life was molded by a prig-
gish anecdote about a boy who needlessly put his foot upon
an ant. There was no question left in the mind of the reader
that the boy might have been absorbed in boyish projects and
did not see the ant. No generous extenuation was allowed;
the foot went on the ant with deadly precision, and the
wickedness of that act will be handed down to the seventh
generation. I feel that the little boy should now be absolved,
in view of full expiation of his crime through having served as
a moral lesson to countless young minds, who, in the aggre-
gate, have walked tens of thousands of miles out of their path
to give right of way to ants, caterpillars and spiders.

I recall my shrinking desire to let my first instalment of
white grubs live, and how I deposited six of them in a capa-
cious bushel basket awaiting my stout-hearted executioner,
Adam, and how four of them crawled out through the holes
before the man's hand appeared. But necessity and Adam's
tardy coming have hardened me, and I have gone through
progressive stages of ferocity, from throwing them over the

118

Mine Enemies 119

stone wall, to covering the bier of my victim with green leaves,
until now — in the words of the beloved Nelson — the garden
expects every woman to do her duty and she does it. Three
things denote the experienced gardener: ability to pluck a
handful of squirming rose-bugs without qualms and despatch
them neatly in a kerosene bath; with a sharp trowel in hand to
play at cross-purposes with grubs and cutworms and to win
the game; to stand unflinchingly while all sorts of bees, wasps,
hornets, green, yellow, striped and red-headed flies gambol
about one's head and face. These are the tests that prove the
veteran of many summers. Any one cherishing qualms and
fears, revulsions and nerves, may chatter glibly about botan-
ical names and cultural directions; but if she cannot stand the
fire of exigency that meets her at every turn, she will never
fight the good fight involved in successful gardening.

But where shall I begin the enumeration, I, who love the
heavenly blue and black velvet coat of the web-worm, who
gaze with undisguised admiration on the iridescent metallic
beetles, the coppery green armor of the dogbane beetle, the
humming-bird moth with its bird-like whiz and movement,
on silken butterflies, from the tiny white bride-like ones that
hover over the filament stems of the Asperula, to the great
yellow and black that hatch all sorts of unmentionable
broods ? It is hard to believe that these are real enemies — but
they are. We must forget our natural history if we would en-
joy the fluttering butterflies, balancing themselves on the edge
of a flower. If these lovely creatures would only sip sweets
perpetually and emancipate themselves from domestic duties,
we should greet them cordially. Butterflies have but two
lawful functions — to act as a poetic supplement to a fragrant
flower, and to serve as a text on immortality.

The first pest of the season is the little stiff whitish worm,
less than an inch long, found under the leaves used as mulch

120 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

in early spring. I am told by an entomologist that they are the
larvae of some small Bibio flies, and are not particularly in-
jurious, as they feed upon dead leaves and decaying vegeta-
tion. I am glad they have carrion tastes, for it disturbed me
not a little to find whole nests of these vermin every spring, a
sort of vanguard of the hordes that I have to combat later.
As they have no criminal record, I'll dismiss them for worse
offenders.

In dry seasons the most destructive worm is the brownish
gray, sometimes bluish lead-colored cutworm, varying from
half an inch to an inch and a half long. Whenever you see a
young plant cut off just above the ground, and withering in
the sun, you may know it is the work of the cutworm. Take
any weapon you can find — a hairpin, if no other is at hand —
and stir the earth slightly within a few inches of the plant, and
you will find the worm just below the surface of the earth. It
never goes deep, nor far. Do not throw it over the wall, but
kill it on the spot. Sweet peas, sweet alyssum, gypsophila and
coreopsis are its favorite diet among annuals; among peren-
nials, young larkspurs, lychnis, lupines, lily of the valley, gla-
diolus, and pansy; and it dotes on a two-year-old Eremurus.
Before planting a bed, or before anything is up in it, the ad-
vice is to spread a poisoned bait made of one part of Paris
green to fifty parts of dry bran, placed in tiny piles over the
ground in the afternoon and evening. Also to dip fresh young
clover, pigweed, mullein or peppergrass in a solution of one
part of Paris green to one hundred parts of water. As cut-
worms eat at night, it is also recommended to go out with a
lantern and gather the harvest. I never could understand why
a burglar's outfit of lantern and weapons were necessary,
when the good honest sun will find the culprit eating almost
any hour of the day and when not eating, snoozing in torpid
idleness near his table. The cutworm never indulges in a con-

Mine Enemies 121

stitutional after a full meal. So I take any convenient dewy
morn for my operations, as I have to battle with them inter-
mittently from early spring until other pests arrive to divide
my attention.

The white grubworm is, in a way, worse than the brown
cutworm, for it works below ground, eats the roots of plants,
and cuts through the stem so near the roots that a plant seldom
recovers from its tooth. It is a wholly unnecessary by-product
of a garden, provided one takes the precaution never to use
fresh manure directly in the beds. Prepare a compost heap
where loads of sand, leaf mold, loam and well-rotted manure
are deposited and worked over from time to time. When a
year old, add this mixture as a fertilizer and you will have no
grubs. During my first two years of gardening I made the
mistake of using fresh horse-dressing, and the white grubs
were everywhere. Since I have established a compost 'heap,
the grubs have entirely disappeared. They have to be dug out
and despatched, unless you are fortunate or unfortunate
enough to have moles also, which follow a worm as the day the
night.

If animals could only be taught how to use a garden prop-
erly all would be well with my world: but dogs do not stand
at the edge and wag their tails in mute admiration of its
beauty; cats will not avert their eyes from birds and concen-
trate on mice and moles; and moles will not pick their way
guardedly between rows of plants and shoo their prey in well-
defined runways. Hence, dogs, cats and moles are anathema,
and I will have none of them.

"Ah, very nice," exclaims the gentle reader, "we do not
like moles either, but what can you do to drive them away?"
Before I answer that question, let me relate my early experi-
ences with the mole.

My garden was constructed from a stone heap, and a stone

122 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

heap is the natural abode of the mole, who soon found a rich
harvest in the fare I had unwittingly spread for it. While a
discreet number of moles may be desirable, when it comes to
daily tunneling under tender annuals, so that their roots are
lifted high in air, where the hot sun makes short work of their
young life, I prefer grubs to moles. At first I watched these
loose elevations of the earth quite helplessly, then I went out
four or five times a day to crowd down the earth, a process al-
most as destructive as the hot sun had been — and then I de-
cided that between the mole and the grub, that would nip one
plant and pay swift penalty, the odds were in favor of the
grub, and I signed the death-warrant of the mole.

With subtlety and craft I began to study the mole. I took
a comfortable chair into the garden and sat guard for the
better part of several days. I found it to be a true rustic,
breakfasting before six, dining about eleven, and supping at
five. One could almost set the clock by its regular habits.
It is curious how gazing steadily at anything semi-hypnotizes
one, and how easily the imagination is aroused. I watched
the ground until things wavered, but one day it was more than
a waver — but was it ? no — yes, yes, there was an unmistakable
crepitation of the loose brown earth, and the long-sought
villain was stealthily moving beneath it. But what was the
good of that knowledge? I had nothing at hand to capture
it, and though I tiptoed lightly away, and secured a weapon I
watched in vain that day for any further upheaving of the
earth. Next day at eleven I occupied a reserved seat in the
front row, ready for the performance to begin. My chosen aid
was a potato-digger, which looks like a hay fork of five tines
curved at right angles. Again things wavered, and I trembled
with excitement. I had supposedly laid aside my tigerhood
thousands of years ago, but at the sight of that uncertain mov-
ing earth the old ferocity leaped to the front. I quivered as

Mine Enemies 123

I have seen cats quiver just as they are about to pounce upon
their prey, and I stood, potato-digger in hand, eager, but
hesitating; for the movement was under some young wall
flowers, and I could not sacrifice them. I waited until it
reached the asters, and with a swift animal pounce I drove the
digger deep into the earth and as quickly threw earth, asters —
and mole out upon the walk. Ignorant of its blindness in the
bright sunlight I feared lest it should run away, and unequal
to despatching it, my mind reverted to my faithful killer,
Adam — but where he was, heaven only knew. It was a wild
moment and wildly did I behave. For the first and only time
in my life I gave my lungs free rein and how I yelled ! It was
blood curdling. Flung to the winds were those thousands of
years of increasing self-control, of gentle aspiration, of calm-
ness and I only hoped that the winds would carry them to the
ears of the absent Adam. Thinking the garden was afire, or
some deadly disaster had overtaken me, he and my maid came
rushing to the rescue; and shamed was I, positively abased,
to confess the occasion of the ferocious clamor.

While the prisoner was hurried away I determined to catch
more moles — but differently. My ambition now was not so
much a capture, but to exercise some self-restraint, and only
when I should be able to catch one, clapping it into a flower-
pot, cover it calmly with another, and walk composedly to
Adam, wherever he was, and say sweetly and quietly — " take
it" — I should know that I had mastered self. So I watched,
flanked on one side by flower-pots, on the other by the useful
digger; but I had to catch four before I could quite conquer
my mad desire to shout for help.

When my beds were filled with perennials I had to give up
my clawing operations; and now I find that common moth
balls dropped in each hole or runway are quite sufficient to
drive moles away.

124 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

I am told that in the great cosmogony toads are invaluable
to the gardener. I wish they had neater habits, and would
squat on the walks, instead of wallowing out great holes under
valued possessions. If we must have toads, let them be small
and trig of figure, young and ever active. I have a hoary old
grandfather with a spread of six inches from tip to tail, that
clucks like a hen.

Another trial is the mouse that gnaws the bark of shrubs,
girdles young trees, and eats the rootstocks of iris, and nibbles
young perennials. Sometimes it may be caught in a trap,
sometimes it is poisoned, but the surest way to protect trees
and shrubs is to tie about them strips of tarred paper from six
to ten inches high. If a heavy mulch is applied to the garden
before the ground freezes, both mice and moles will seek win-
ter shelter in the mellow soil, which may be prevented by late
mulching after a hard freeze.

When the cutworm has been ordinarily numerous, there is
no respite in the war waged against it, but a new campaign
begins from the tenth to the fifteenth of June against a small
tan-colored beetle called the rose-bug. And why rose-bug?
By courtesy alone should it thus be called. For years it has
ravaged the panicles of our sumachs, stripping the creamy
green blossoms down to the bare stems. There is where I
failed. I should have pursued it long ago; but, as I have only
recently squandered myself on choice roses, I am just awaken-
ing to the fact that the rose-bug is a desperate evil. Authori-
ties agree that hand picking alone conquers.

Some days before the new roses were in bloom, I discovered
that a certain fern was suddenly blighted — it was the rose-bug
at work. As I had never measured the strength and number
of this foe, I merely began — a stampede; but one can't do that
long; so I got a large tin tobacco-box (how useful Adam's
manners and customs are to me) and mixing a little kerosene

Mine Enemies 125

with water, I entered the detective service. Many times a day
I went out, and found the garden heliotrope and Spirea sal-
icifolia swarming; also the beetles were strolling up and down
the stems of the Asperula hexaphylla, and gnawing great bites
out of the Chrysanthemum maximum. They do not attack
the half wild red Lancaster and cinnamon roses, and I thought
I had cleared the garden of them before the choicer roses
appeared, when I discovered new relays on the goutweed,
mallow, meadow-rue, and hundreds of them on a Virginia
creeper. Not that the rose-bug likes Virginia creeper; but,
as an enemy, he finds a vine over my favorite seat a vulnerable
point to attack. Everywhere save in the heart of roses, where
we are bidden to search for the evil one, do we find it. Rose-
bug, forsooth ! It is no such dainty epicure as that; it should be
called Omnivorous Bug, for it samples everything, even your-
self if you stay any length of time. But you don't, for another
pestiferous creature drives you frantic and you escape in-
doors. I do not know its name, but it looks like a triangular
fly with a small head and broad spreading transparent wings
with dark spots, and it circles around your head and lights on
your arm or back and bites as no gentle rose-bug ever thought
of biting. There is something malignant about this noisy fly,
and it is seldom that you can get a full view of it. I have had
them pursue me over a hundred feet and even fly in at the
screen door after me.

To return to the rose-bug: it flourishes a month or more,
when the males die and the females descend into the earth to
lay their eggs, come to the surface and die. The eggs hatch
in twenty days, and the young larvae begin to feed upon tender
roots. In October they descend below the reach of frost
where they remain until spring, gradually come to the sur-
face, and in May are transformed into pupae and in June be-
come beetles. Two remedies besides hand-picking into kero-

126 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

sene are recommended: spraying with arsenate of lead — five
pounds to fifty gallons of water; or Paris green at the rate of
one pound to two hundred gallons of water. The latter solu-
tion injures the foliage. Since Paris green is a remedy, I do
not see why one cannot use it as we do for the potato-bug,
which is half a teaspoonful of it sifted in a quart of flour and
dusted over plants when they are wet. This proportion is not
injurious to foliage. The rose-bug is a gentle creature, and
clings to a leaf until you get a fair hold on it, which makes
capture an easy thing.

Another rose pest is a small green worm that works on the
under side of the leaf and leaves behind a brown skeleton fiber.
Spraying helps a little, but it is better to stir into the ground
a little air-slaked lime in early spring. One half of a rose bed
where this was tried was quite free from the pest; the other
half where no lime was used was eaten almost bare. Sprink-
ling the under side of leaves with one tablespoonful of white
hellebore to a pailful of boiling water is recommended.

I was quite worn out by the time they departed, for their
season was unusually long that first year of discovery, when
to my distress I found the wild clematis vines almost denuded
of leaves, also the Anemone Pennsylvania was in tatters, and
the new invader was a dark lead-colored bug almost an inch
long, resembling a lightning-bug on the back, but with a huge
gray abdominal expanse. It has a very small pin head which
it carries in a spirited, cocky fashion, and drops at a touch.
Later it infested the Japanese clematis, and proved a vora-
cious devastator. I couldn't hand pick this loathsome insect,
but scraped it off into my kerosene box.

Before this pest disappeared I found another and larger
creature at work — my trials that particular summer grew like
an inverted triangle, and if winter had not come to my relief,
our garden pests would have increased to the size of a cat.

Mine Enemies 127

The new horror was the oil beetle, a bright blue metallic in-
sect without visible wings, fully two inches long, with a ridic-
ulously small waist, and an enormous distension of body
tapering to a point. This also infested the Anemone Pennsyl-
vania, now in complete rags and tatters, the wild clematis,
Japanese clematis, and occasionally the larkspur. Drowning
in kerosene is the only fit death for this disgusting vulture.

I despatched about forty thousand of these despicable ene-
mies, had my usual bout with the potato-bug which devours
the Nicotiana ajfinis, and thought to breathe something be-
side the nauseating fumes of kerosene, when I discovered the
aster beetle at work, not so much on the China asters as on
the Michaelmas daisies. It is a jet black beetle, less than an
inch long, and must be hand picked, or more correctly speak-
ing— hand-scraped into kerosene. I am sure these enemies
have been with me in previous seasons, but either in less num-
ber, or the scales had just fallen from my eyes. We had un-
usual rains that year and in consequence more bugs. Drought
may be my chief blessing after all.

With the establishment of a white woody variety of late
aster, came a horde of yellow wasps, which were despatched
by scraping them into a glass of soap/ water, either early in
the morning, or late at night when they were a trifle stiff with
the cold.

The green louse that infests the tender tips of roses, also the
Gaura and pinks can be controlled by spraying with a strong
solution of Ivory soap-suds; or add to hot soap-suds two
tablespoonfuls of kerosene to four gallons of water; mix
thoroughly with a sprayer and then spray two or three times
at intervals of two weeks. This is a weak kerosene emulsion
and may be used for white worms, rose beetles and aster
beetles, but is better for sucking insects. A solution of one
pound of whale oil soap to eight gallons of water will also

128 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

keep in check sucking insects. I kept my roses in healthy con-
dition all summer merely by spraying them with strong Ivory
soap-suds at intervals of a week or ten days. I found no rose-
bugs on any rose except Madame Plantier, and not more than
a dozen on that.

Contrary to the accepted opinion, I consider bees an enemy
in a garden — an enemy to beauty; and bumble bees are
rougher in their habits than honey bees. I have felt an angry
protest, when observing the wanton destruction of a poppy
bed made by the bumble bee, as it tumbles about among the
stamens and loosens the petals so that they drop within a few
hours. I have also observed when both bumble bees and
honey bees are numerous, that the bumble bees vacate the
poppies and give precedence to honey bees, betaking them-
selves to the hollyhocks instead, where they load up with pol-
len unmolested. There is something about hollyhock pollen
that fuddles a bumble bee completely, and at early twilight,
when all respectable bumble bees should be sitting by their
firesides relating the day's adventures to the young, a tall hol-
lyhock resembles a thirteen-story apartment house without its
shielding walls to hide the occupants, and every flower has
become a bed-chamber where one or more bumble bees, help-
lessly intoxicated and unable to go home, find shelter for the
night. Nor do they always sleep off the effect by morning,
for I have found them at nine o'clock still torpid and unable
to move.

There are many minor pests more or less destructive in the
form of flies that puncture the leaves of the aster, Chrysanthe-
mum maximum, and tender leaved plants, leaving round dark
dots; also those that pierce a stem to lay their eggs, causing
a white spittle-like foam to ooze from the spot. Then there
are special diseases of plants so numerous as to require tech-
nical study to meet them wisely. For example, the larkspur

Mine Enemies 129

is subject to the crown rot in early spring, and the remedy is
to cover them with ashes as a fall mulch; also to sprinkle air-
slaked lime about the foot, and over the crown. The larkspur
blight is now under advisement, and no remedy is yet assured,
so I was told by the Plant Industry Department at Washing-
ton; though I shall relate my own experiment later, which has
been quite successful for two summers. It assumes the form
of a shriveling of the buds just as they are about to appear,
leaving abortive stems only. The only thing recommended so
far by the Department is to cut out and destroy all infected
plants, and spray with copper fungicides, using the following
Government formula for Bordeaux mixture: Copper sulphate,
three pounds; fresh stone lime, six pounds; water, fifty gallons.
It is much better to use it freshly mixed, and as a small garden
will not need so large a quantity at one time, each of the above
ingredients may be dissolved separately in twenty-five gallons
of water to be kept as a stock mixture. If the water evapo-
rates, add water to make up the loss, and combine them as re-
quired, stirring thoroughly. Or, it may be made freshly each
time in the exact quantity needed, using the above formula,
by dissolving separately at the rate of one ounce of copper
sulphate and two ounces of fresh stone lime each in a half
gallon of water. Stir well when dissolving and when mixed
together. In slaking lime add but a little water at a time to
the lime, as it generates great heat, stirring until all lumps are
slaked. Slaked lime should be kept covered with water until
it is used.

The hollyhock rust has proved quite as deadly and unman-
ageable as the larkspur blight, when once established. As I
have grown my larkspurs and hollyhocks from seeds, and I
am a mile or more from any extensive garden that might have
infection, the appearance of blight and rust was unexpected.
It is said that rust, like mildew, attacks weak plants, but my

130 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

experience is to the contrary, for I have never seen such vig-
orous plants as my hollyhocks were when the rust first ap-
peared. Each plant was from three to four feet in circum-
ference, and each sent up from four to six stalks six feet
high or more. I was advised to use a weak solution of per-
manganate of potassium, enough to tinge the water, if the
plants were young; or a weak solution of Bordeaux mix-
ture, if the disease was advanced. I used the latter, as the
yellow spots had crept up to the top leaves and the lower
ones had all fallen leaving my hollyhocks as naked as a
plucked fowl. The result was immediate death — I trust a
painless one.

Reasoning from the advice that a frequent spraying with
Ivory soap-suds was an excellent general insecticide for roses,
I proceeded to apply the suggestion in a new way to holly-
hocks and larkspurs. I made a thick foaming suds, adding,
as an antiseptic, a half teaspoonful of baking soda to two or
three quarts of water. Taking a handful of the foam, I be-
gan at the root of a plant and ran my hand upwards so as to
cover with foam the under sides of the leaves as well as the top,
the stems, and even the buds, if they were forming. This
treatment was begun in early May, and four or five applica-
tions were made at intervals of a week. For the first time in
many years the hollyhocks were free from rust, though on
several plants, that did not get an early treatment, it appeared
toward the middle of the summer in a mild form; and on
others, that, intentionally I did not treat at all, the rust ran
its usual destructive course. This method was wholly success-
ful with larkspurs, and was rewarded with a full crop of bloom,
the first in years. This simple remedy costs nothing, does not
disfigure the plants, and from my two years' experiment I
believe that these two diseases can be kept under control, if
the applications are begun early, and continued for a month

Mine Enemies 131

or more. Do not wait until the rust appears before you begin
treatment, but start with the first growth of leaves. Mean-
time I advise a renewal of the stock by raising a yearly crop
of seedlings and replacing old plants with strong young ones
from time to time.

Then there is mildew that attacks roses, Michaelmas
daisy, larkspur and other plants. It is due to continued wet
weather, sour soil or unfavorable situation. Various remedies
are offered. As a preventive, apply once a month Bordeaux
mixture diluted to half strength, using the formula : sulphate of
copper, six pounds; lime, four pounds; water, ninety gallons.
This renders the foliage unsightly^ and a milder preventive
is often used: sulphide of potassium, one half ounce; water
one gallon; apply once a week if the weather is wet and washes
off the mixture. Another remedy is one tablespoonful of
sulphur and wood-soot, made into a paste with water. Add
boiling water, perhaps one or two quarts, and when cool,
sprinkle plants or bushes. For mildew that has actually ap-
peared, powder the plants and the ground beneath with
flowers of sulphur; also stir into the soil a little slaked lime.

The Clematis Jackmanni has an artless way of disappearing
without a word of farewell — mine did before I learned the
probable cause and remedy. The bark on the stem of the
Clematis is very brittle, and easily scraped when packed for
transportation, and when this has occurred, the wounded
place becomes an easy entrance to the eel worm that burrows
in and destroys the vine. It travels at the surface of the earth,
and if the wound is near the ground it has access. The
remedy is to cut the stem off to the very root when planting,
hill up sand about the plant, and cover the crown at least an
inch with soil.

My Physostegia sometimes suffers from a blight that turns
the plant yellow, and rots the stem off at the root and it dies.

132 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

I do not know the cause, but think it must be due to a sour
condition of soil kept too shaded and moist. They are
planted all over the garden, and in sunny locations the plants
are healthy; elsewhere they are not. I mean to try a little lime
in the earth as a remedy.

The cause of the auratum lily disappearing is said to be a
white mite that infests the scales. In foreign countries where
they are raised, the conditions are such that this is kept in
check, while it flourishes in America. A well drained sunny
situation, a rich soil with plenty of leaf mold in it, but no
fresh manure, the bulb well insulated by a handful of sand
directly about it when planted, give the auratum at least a
favorable environment.

The Lilium Candidum is also subject to disease, and, as a
corrective, the bulbs should be powdered with sulphur before
planting. There are other specific diseases too numerous to
mention; apparently they are the appointed way that plants
pass out of this world, like the aster blight, due to the blue
aphis that attacks the tender roots, for which the specific is
wood ashes in the soil at the root; the carnation blight due to
a little worm that finds lodgment in the stem and has to be
burrowed out. Then there are plants that root near the sur-
face of the ground, and while they die if kept too wet, they
are also killed if the roots dry out or the hot sun strikes the
collar of the plant.

Many of these peculiar requirements and conditions I have
tried to enumerate under their proper heads in the Appendix;
yet the treatment of plants can no more be generalized than
the treatment of children can. There are inherent capacities
and aptitudes that seem to demand certain environment, yet
at times plants adapt themselves in a marvelous way to quite
contrary ones. Evidently the great life energy is reaching out
as eagerly to produce ever higher types through plant forms

Mine Enemies 133

as it does through human beings, and there seems to be a uni-
versal desire on all planes of existence to escape the type form
and achieve an individual expression. But it is only through
a healthy vehicle that it can come to pass. Interesting sports
in the garden proceed from healthy growths. If we desire to
assist Nature's effort to produce through a strong normal type
an individual variation, it can only be done by first eliminat-
ing disease and destructive agencies from the garden, and
then affording every favoring condition.

PHOTOGRAPHY OF FLOWERS

HEN Adam presented me with a camera, possess-
ing the various attachments designed to bewilder
simple woman, together with a dozen rolls of
films, I was as much overwhelmed with the new
dignity thrust upon me as if I had been an obscure Western
politician summoned to take a Cabinet position. I had not
gone through the snap-shot-pocket-kodak kindergarten; I
was innocent of the least knowledge of the wiles and tricks
a modern camera can play one, and here I was like a two-
year-old given a parlor clock to play with.

I was taken in hand by a professional photographer, who
explained to me the functions and readings of the diaphram,
the way to set for distance, who also interpreted the mysteri-
ous phylactery over the eye of the lens, T. B. 1-25, 1-50,
i-ioo — all of which instruction I asked him to let me repeat
parrot-fashion after him, and when he declared my answers
to the catechism were correct, he closed the camera, assuring
me it was loaded — a terrifying word to one whose life-long
horror has been a gun — and I reluctantly departed, saying
that he would probably see me again shortly. I lingered on
the doorstep of his piazza wondering if I could not invite him
up to the cottage to spend a week, so hazy already was my
impression of what had been said, and so unprepared had I
been for the interview. Adam had intended to surprise me
with his gift, and the effect was greater then he hoped — I
was truly dazed. As we drove home with the camera, I
admired the case, reported every word of my instructions,

134

Photography of Flowers 135

and offered to show the delighted Adam the esoteric mysteries
within, and then I found I had failed to ask how to open the
little beast. I was much chagrined, for it was a somewhat
important item, and we were three miles from the source of
wisdom. In the course of a few days I made the journey
again, returned and felt myself ready for action.

I confess to no interest in genealogy, but I am sure if any
one took the pains to investigate my lineage, it would be
found that I was a near relative of Elizabeth Eliza Peterkin,
whose extraordinary density was the delight of my youth.
I could now open and close the camera, and my next desire
was "to behold this world so wide" through the finder,
preparatory to taking pictures. I found the finder, but noth-
ing else, for I steadfastly held the open camera with the
bellows end towards me, and, direct it as I would, I saw
nothing but the back of the camera in the glass. I had sense
enough to know that something was wrong, and that the fault
was mine, though that was small consolation when I contem-
plated another three-mile drive for instruction.

I was given the same advice offered to Elizabeth Eliza,
who was found by the Lady from Philadelphia sitting on a
high stool, playing on the piano through the open parlor win-
dow. Elizabeth Eliza explained that the expressmen had
carelessly set up the piano in the parlor with the keyboard
next to the wall, and though she could reach over a big
square piano and play at arm's length for a while, she could
not do it long. So she had almost decided to give up her
music, when it occurred to her to place a high stool outside
the open window where she could reach 'through and play
quite easily.

"My dear Eliza," exclaimed the Lady from Philadelphia,
"Why don't you turn the piano around?"

"I never thought to do that," replied Eliza.

136 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

Said my instructor, with a twinkle of mirth in his eye,
" You have been standing in front of your camera instead of
behind it; turn it around, my child, and look."

The child turned it, and was deeply mortified at her utter
stupidity; but she laughed to cover her confusion and said:
"This reminds me of an episode that occurred at a baby
show I once attended in the South. All the negro babies
under a year old of the district had been sent in to compete
for a prize and as they arrived they were duly ticketed with
a large number pinned on the dress. Just before the open-
ing hour, an assistant came in haste to the manager and said
anxiously, 'We have lost No. 9. Have you seen it? And
we have two No. 6's; we are getting all mixed up.'

"'No,' replied the manager, 'it was there a few minutes
ago, for I marked the baby myself — it was a girl.'

" Then followed a hasty search, and a sudden exclamation
of satisfaction from the manager, who called out, { Here's No.
9; some one has set her wrong side up so she looks like a 6.' "

More than a week had now slipped away, I had mastered
two minor points, but had not ventured to take a picture, and
I have to laugh at myself now as I recall my maiden effort.
The camera had been bought to gratify my desire to photo-
graph flowers, but no one had told me, that, of all objects
under the canopy of heaven, flowers are the most difficult,
and require technical instruction. I was unaware that four
o'clock in the afternoon in a shady place is not quite the
condition to set an exposure at 1-25 of a second with a 64
diaphragm. The object chosen was a lovely confusion of blue
lupines and yellow day lilies, and I spent half an hour in set-
ting up the camera, and measured the distance at least three
times, anxiously inspecting the various contrivances to be
set. My cheeks grew hot and my hand unsteady while I
tried to pluck up courage to squeeze the bulb. It sounds

Photography of Flowers 137

easy to do, but for a novice whose previous education has
not included a course in squeezing bulbs it is a difficult
science.

Your hand seems a thousand miles from the directing
brain, and the communicating command to squeeze loiters on
the threshold of the spinal cord, proceeds leisurely to the
shoulder, and down to the hand as if out for a holiday.
Meantime the hand waits for the word and wonders if the
cable is cut. I gave a nervous, tremulous, continuous grip,
and then fearing that I had not done it properly, I gave
another, and the deed was doubly done. It had been an agi-
tating hour, and while I longed to make instant use of the
newly gained knowledge that double squeezes are an evidence
of a perturbed mind, I felt I had had enough excitement for
that day and was satisfied to close the camera and walk into
the house, assured that I had fulfilled every condition, and
that my initial attempt was undoubtedly successful, if some-
what flurried.

I was truly distressed when the first roll of developed films
was placed in my hands — they were worthless; and more than
this, the lupines had gone by, as well as the various other
things I had taken, so they were lost to me for a whole year.
The second roll was edifying, but not useful. Then in a
sapient moment, I decided to keep an exact record of my mis-
takes, confident that, in the course of time, I should cover the
entire range of possible errors, and it would be a pleasure to
know what not to do, for I was not in the least disheartened.
So I ruled out a little memorandum book thus :

Date

No. Set

Time

D 13 pnragm

Distance

Subject

Hour

Weather

Results

and I have kept a careful report of every exposure taken. As
I look over the column marked Results, I am surprised at

138 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

the fertility of my blundering mind, and to see what a variety
of things can go wrong, and yet never repeat the same mis-
take. They run thus: Lost — time exposure left open, losing
two films — under-exposed — lost through duplicating on last
exposure — rolled film too far — snapped the shutter attach-
ment by accident — focus bad — forgot to set any of the attach-
ments— over-exposed.

By and by the tide turned and the results began a dif-
ferent theme — good — fair — very good — excellent — best of all.

After three years of faithful practice I can set forth a
few words of advice — not as a finished exponent of this art,
but as an earnest student who has learned somewhat of the
fundamental principles. One is that crisp details add beauty
to a flower photograph, and these demand a long exposure
and small diaphragm. No. 32 of the F. system is excellent,
even a 64, if the sun is very bright, or thin white clouds
flying, which give a high degree of the actinic rays. I find
with a 32 diaphragm, a bulb (B) exposure of 1-3 to i second,
or more, according to conditions, give good results. By
conditions, I mean the degree of light, and hour of day,
whether in full sun or in shade, whether light or dark objects,
at a distance of three feet or a distant view. From nine
to ten o'clock in the morning during the summer months,
the shadows are long and the atmospheric quality is tender
and diffused; but the light is not strong and the exposure
may be a second, which is beyond what is required at high
noon. Also from three to four o'clock in the afternoon, the
shadows are deep and rich in tone though the light is only
fairly strong. A hazy day is also good, even a dull day,
though it will be lacking in shadow, and the time of exposure
must be increased accordingly. An excellent guide in the
matter of timing exposures is found in the Wager Exposure
Scale, manufactured in Baltimore, Md., by the John H.

A HAZY DAY IN OCTOBER [P. 138]

THE DROPPING OF LEAVES MARKS THE PROGRESS NATURE

MAKES [P. 140]

Photography of Flowers 139

Herrick Co. It makes allowance for every condition — the
month of the year, hour of day, long, short or average dis-
tances, light or dark objects, also for clear sun, bright, hazy
and dull weather and varying speed of plates. I have found
it reliable and comprehensive.

In the matter of plates or films I learn from an experienced
authority that the most rapid are necessary for flower photog-
raphy, and that a color filter helps to preserve values, but
extra timing is necessary with a color filter. I learn also
that the conditions of flower photography are peculiar, in
that to bring out the sharp details of a red blossom requires
from four to six times as long an exposure as a white one;
green details require two or three times; yellow but little
longer, unless of deep orange tone; blue, unless of a deep
purplish tone, about the same as white.

An excellent way to acquire a practical knowledge of your
camera is to take the same object under different conditions
of time, size of diaphragm, sun, shade, and distance, making
a careful record of each exposure, and note which gives the
best results. A helpful article on "Photographing Trees and
Flowers" appeared in "The Photo-Miniature," No. 13,
Vol. II., to which I refer the student. The subject is too
large and technical for me to attempt any definite instruction.
I only know enough to avoid the common, egregious, need-
less mistakes. Ten years hence when I have squandered my
entire patrimony on films, plates, cameras and tripods, I
may have an authoritative word to say. To-day I am but an
index finger pointing to a delightful amenity of life.

One does not realize the constant flux and flow in nature
until he has tried to photograph out of doors. There is
but a single day in the life of many plants when they represent
perfection of growth and bloom. If, on that particular day,
you forget the engagement, or the rain falls, or the wind is

140 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

high, or other duties interfere, the chance is lost. Sometimes
the conditions seem perfect, and the tripod is set in place,
when a slight wind springs up, and the delicately poised
flowers wag their heads in response, and you wait, bulb in
hand — and wait — and wait — sometimes half an hour for a
moment of calm. It comes usually after a sharp blow, and
you must be alert to take advantage of it. If you lose patience,
and let it go, you are likely to lose the subject altogether; for
a plant is not the same on any two days, and its climax of
beauty is short-lived.

In the early spring we can easily follow the swift changes
in the opening leaves and rapid growth; also in the autumn
the daily variations of coloring and the dropping of leaves
mark the progress Nature makes. We are apt to think that
she rests, or gently matures during the interval. With camera
in hand we grow sensitive to the infinite gradations of light —
a passing cloud alters the whole aspect — of the magical
changes wrought through the passing hours, where shadows
shift momentarily; of the fluid character of the air, seldom in
quiescence; of daily transition from leaf to bud, from bud to
flower and flower to fruit. Contrary to actual experience,
perfect beauty always impresses me with confidence in its
permanence. An apple-tree in full flower, a maple-tree in au-
tumn dress convince me that they are dependable stage prop-
erties; that, as lovely accessories, they must endure, they are
guaranteed for life: and I am ever perplexed to see the petals
fall and the beauty fade.

Once only in my life have I known perfect repose in Nature.
It was a January day in a North Carolina pine barren, and I
had wandered away from my companions, and sat on a fallen
log to observe things. The stillness and hush were indescrib-
able; not a leaf rustled, not a bird, cricket or insect could be
seen or heard, no living creature stirred in the underbrush,

Photography of Flowers 141

no cloud floated across the sky. The landscape with its white
sandy road, losing itself in a weird blackened forest of half-
charred turpentine pines, clothed knee high with flaming red
underbrush of scrub oak, was as lifeless as a painted canvas,
and I became sceptical of my own reality. The longer I sat
the more fantastic and improbable did the trees and sky and
my own existence seem. It was with an effort that I shook off
the illusion, and dropped back into a living active world,
where every leaf must act its part, if it be no more than to
twinkle and coquet with the wind, where birds must flutter
by and sing, and clouds float, and distant hammers and
voices ring, and dogs and poultry utter their cry to keep men
sane and normal. We must have action and sound, else Na-
ture oppresses us as a bad dream of the night where nothing
moves, nor is anything brought to pass.

Only when we try our apprentice hand in the faulty use of
such a force as light in photography, instead of dense matter,
do we realize how subtile, how powerful any force is, how in-
violable are the results. We may blunder and patch up a mis-
take with matter; but a mistaken application of force is ir-
remediable and destructive. Any thoughtful experiment
leads us to the threshold of almost unimaginable speculations
about the conditions when, as disembodied spirits, ages hence,
we shall be liberated forever from the limitations of matter,
and sometime be entrusted with the use of these sublimated
agents — forces — not destructively and experimentally, but
constructively. How shall we build, when we employ thought
instead of brick and stone ? What shall our gardens be, when
we use the life principle instead of plants? What shall we
communicate, when we send forth musical vibratory color in-
stead of dense thought or still grosser words ?

When we study a garden for its photographic possibilities,
we see a thousand things before unobserved, and in new rela-

142 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

tions. We grow sensitive to the artistic effect of unusual
combinations; we study with a view to rearrangement; mere
color grows less emphatic and beauty of form, symmetry, va-
riety and distribution more. We note the quality of shadow
as well as light; we observe the ensemble as well as particulars;
we see more in perspective. We visit an object to observe how
it looks at different hours of the day, and at night. We note
the modifications made by the different atmospheric condi-
tions. Some of my most delightful suggestions have come
through studying the garden under the moonlight, when a
wholly unfamiliar aspect is presented, and the deep shadows
supplement reality.

My latest extension along the slope was a problem for a
whole year, during which, I worked out many diagrams, but
none of them pleased me. Last August I chanced to look into
the garden when the moon was full, and across a certain walk
tall perennials and shrubs cast shadows, that looked like steps
rising in a series of threes, curving toward and lost beneath
a distant arbor. Here was a clear solution of my question,
which was to construct a walk at the base of the slope and
running parallel with it for thirty feet, and then let it rise in a
curve to the top. To accomplish it, I had only to cut the bank
on either side of the rising curve down to the level of three long
terraced beds that already existed, and merely needed to be ex-
tended to meet the walk; and then by facing the cuttings with
stone walls, I could secure the moist and shaded conditions
that were so much needed for certain shrubs and tall peren-
nials that had to be moved from their present exposed posi-
tion because they suffered from drought. These were planted
on the right, the taller ones next to the walls and shading the
smaller ones, while on the left of the rising walk, where the
slope was cut down perhaps five feet and leveled towards the
front, was an unlimited space for masses of the low Lancaster

A CURVED WALK WITH TERRACED BEDS CUT OUT OF A SLOPE,
SUGGESTED BY SHADOWS AT NIGHT [P. 142]

PORTION OF A BED SET WITH YOUNG SHRUBS FOR AUTUMN

EFFECTS (P. 143]

Photography of Flowers 143

roses, hybrid perpetuals and my annual overflow of peren-
nials arranged in front of a long undulating background of
shrubs that I am gradually assembling for autumn effects.
The photograph shows but a small portion of it in a new raw
state, just as it was planted in late autumn. All about the
stump are planted wild clematis and tall ferns, and in the
corner of the first bed below the stump is a white variety of
Clematis Jackmanni. The upper right-hand bed, which is
a perfect Sahara, is set with Rudbeckia and Helianthus laii-
folius, both able to withstand any drought. The next just
below was a former nursery bed, and is reset with columbines,
blue lupines and meadow-rue, deep blue larkspur, white fox-
gloves, hollyhocks, perennial phlox and late asters. The
third and lowest bed is planted with Lychnis dioica rosea,
Paris daisy, Chrysanthemum maximum, white larkspur,
golden glow, Helianthus, Helen flower and perennial phlox,
with red Shirley poppies for a brilliant midsummer effect.
And this is the fruit of a moonlight vision.

How varied the night effects are, seen under a crescent, or
full, or waning moon, with clear soft blue-gray sky, or flying
scud of cloud! How penetrating and tangible is the black
darkness that blots out everything! I shall never forget an
experience one starless night when a wild gale was blowing,
and a storm impended. I went out to gather a ripe poppy-
head that I had been saving and feared would be lost, and
my feet were guided by instinct, as it was pitch black. There
was something ghoulish in the clutching wind; the thick dark-
ness was choking and malevolent. A spirit of evil was
abroad and filled me with terror. I 'actually fled before
it, and ran breathless into the house.

Instead of taking random pictures of any chance thing, I
urge lovers of flowers to make a study of them by means of the
camera. One may prefer to arrange cut flowers as a subject;

144 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

another, single growing plants; some may choose garden ef-
fects at different seasons; some wild flowers; some perhaps
will take a single family and secure photographs of its differ-
ent varieties and species. It is vastly more interesting to use
this art intelligently, and with definite purpose, than to gather
a meaningless collection of prints. Aside from the interest
and pleasure it gives, it has an esthetic, educational value to
the earnest student.

SOME GARDENERS I HAVE KNOWN

HERE are as many motives in growing flowers as
there are reasons that take people into the coun-
try. A genuine passion for nature is seldom the
root of either. Frequently it is mere obedience to
convention. The "best people" are observed to do and to
have certain things, and thus it is recognized as the proper
thing to have orchards, well-kept grounds, a stable, a kennel
and a garden, and worshippers of convention buy them as
they do groceries, hire others to care for them, visit them
rarely, and have no personal relation with any one of them.
If an entertainment is to be given, the gardeners wheel in
their products, and the maids, or some poor relative, arrange
them; and a bushel or two left over gives no pang to the mis-
tress; the surplus is a gratifying proof of the prodigal yield
of the estate.

" God Almightie first planted a Garden. And indeed, it is
the Purest of Humane pleasures. It is the Greatest Refresh-
ment to the Spirits of Man; without which, Buildings and
Pallaces are but Groose Handy-works; And a Man shall ever
see, that when Ages grow to Civility and Elegancie, Men come
to Build Stately, sooner than to Garden Finely," says Bacon.
Then there are those who have a barbaric love of color —
masses of it — and whether their flowers are in the ground, or
crowded into fat round bowls, they present solid sheets of
color. As far as esthetic effects go they might as well spread
yards of Turkey red calico or large flowered prints upon the
ground. But this is their taste, and thus do they express it.

145

146 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

Nothing is more interesting, than to observe the key-note of
any given garden, and nothing is more significant as an inter-
pretation of the owner's taste. There may be hundreds of
varieties and many colors, yet at a distance all are blended
into some particular composite tone which dominates, and
too often it is a vicious purplish red, better known as solferino,
or magenta.

For some inexplicable reason, most garden effects remind
me of an old book of household wisdom belonging to my
grandmother. In it were recipes for cookies, pastry and pud-
dings; homely remedies for croup, typhoid fever and rickets;
infallible cures for spavin, thrush and sprung knees, and use-
ful hints about the care of young calves; instruction in domes-
tic economy and the management of servants — a veritable re-
pository of human knowledge. But the versatility of the
writer did not end here. Being something more than a mere
housewife and free dispensary, she prudently shut the door
upon the material domain by inserting two blank pages as an
insulator, and then launched upon the difficult questions of
esthetics. She gave carefully prepared and authoritative re-
cipes for painting skies, water, moonlight, fountains, trees.
These were rescued from the blundering instincts of artists,
and once for all chromatics was placed within the easy reach
of the multitude. For years I used to hover over this compen-
dium like a bee about a honey pot, and then look wistfully at
a southwestern sky, when it presented a certain ineffable tone
that was neither blue, nor gray, nor yellow, and wondered
whether it was composed of gamboge, Venetian red, ultra-
marine blue, Naples yellow, or what, heightened by white—-
all the recipes generously allowed for "heightening," what-
ever that might mean. I never reached any decision on this
question; for, to my deep regret, a southwestern sky was not
mentioned in the Book of Wisdom; so I finally concluded that

Some Gardeners I Have Known 147

the sky I loved best must be like the Italian sky, indescribable;
else it certainly would have been prescribed. If the author
were alive to-day to add an appendix, one item would cer-
tainly run thus: Average Garden — Take ten square feet of
mixed petunias, preferably blotched and mottled, two feet by
four of yellow and red zinnias, an eighth of an acre of yellow
marigolds, an equal area of scarlet geraniums, a yard of bal-
sams. Blend indiscriminately. Shade with purple asters,
magenta balsams and variegated coleus. Heighten with sun-
flowers, cannas, castor bean and solferino dahlias.

Again there are those who feel a proprietary right in every-
thing they touch, and such people grow flowers to cut. They
have no more scruple in going out with a large basket and
sharp relentless shears to devastate the beauty of their beds
than they would to cut into a yard of cotton cloth. That is
what flowers are for, and merciless is the hand of the butcher.
To them they are useful commodities like butter, soap and tea.
Glorious stalks of lilium auratum are not sacred (the more
glorious the better, just as high-priced unsalted butter is pref-
erable) nor great spikes of larkspur, nor campanulas, nor
hibiscus, nor lilium speciosum. Never mind if the whole
year's fruition is centered in a single head of splendid bloom,
and half the buds are still unopened, off goes that head as
lightly as if it were a nasturtium. No matter if, when cut, it
lives but a day in water; it has served — for it was grown to
cut! There are of course instances where you may eat your
cake and keep it in a garden; but for the most part perennials
allow themselves a limited amount of bloom, and you cannot
have it on the stalk and on the mantelpiece at the same time.

Then there are certain spendthrift natures that grow flowers
to give away. They have a passion for generosity. They will
call in little Jennie from her play to give away the dress on
her back; they will dispose of the last new book before the

148 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

family has had time to read it. Jellies and pickles never ripen
on their cellar shelves, for they are sent as a glad tribute to
neighbors. They will dig up anything, and strip their most
precious possession to give to any passer-by, who seldom
troubles himself to carry it as far as the gate. When such a
one meets a person gluttonous of things, sad is the havoc
wrought. For example: in the early days when I was study-
ing not only flowers, but the habits of mortals let loose among
them, this conversation took place. Said a Gluttonous One:

" My daughter and I were calling upon Mrs. who has a

beautiful garden, and she told us that we could help ourselves
to anything we liked; and my daughter gathered white fox-
gloves— the greatest quantity — as many as she could hold in
her two hands," and she related the atrocity with all the relish
of a cannibal who had just eaten a missionary. I imme-
diately called her attention to a certain view of the moun-
tains and gently but firmly led her a safe distance from the
garden.

Incidentally let me confide that this same mountain view is
my trump-card. Some people — strangers in our part of the
world — have come to look upon us as public property, and not
a few have even been known to visit us as they would a boul-
der or a glen. Their arrival is not always coincident with my
convenience. They may come at the critical moment when
the dressing for my truly delicious mustard pickles is thicken-
ing; when, at my ablutions, my ear alone catches the sound
of the knocker, and I have no way of communicating either
their coming or my helpless condition to Adam in the gar-
den, or my maid who may be hanging out the clothes.
They come at dewy morn when I am transplanting; they
come when we are at dinner — a matter not half so tragical
as arriving just as dinner, for three only, is ready to be
served. They come in rain, and when the thermometer stands

LATE SEPTEMBER ANNUALS

[P- i44]

WHITE FOXGLOVES

[P. 148]

Some Gardeners I Have Known 149

at 95° and the entire family is in dishabille. No wonder I
have had to resort at times to defenses against strangers,
and this is my decoy, used particularly when my guests
wear clean white gloves and natty little silk coats, and carry
a lorgnette. Recognizing enemies of my convenience — they
generally come in squads — I welcome them with great hos-
pitality, not, however, asking them to sit down. I make
a pretense of showing some new thing of interest about the
room, and suddenly say, — "Let me show you something
in the garden," holding them in leash at the edge, then wheel
toward the aforesaid mountain view always conveniently at
hand, wait until the adjectives are expended, then turn back
to the lawn. There is nothing left to do; their carriage is ob-
viously waiting for them, and they are encouraged to mount
their chariot; they are down the lane before they realize that
they have inadvertently stepped upon my inclined plane
which gently bows an intruder down and out without hurting
the feelings of anybody. Pray do not make the mistake in
thinking that this device is used often. It is only when cir-
cumstances force the worm to turn, and never after three
o'clock in the afternoon.

I have drifted from my subject, and return to the conserva-
tive gardener, who lives by tradition. She, it is, who preserves
a remnant of her grandmother's garden, who has a natural
antipathy toward all innovations as pernicious. She is an
archive of the past. Her lettuce is always eaten with sugar
and vinegar, never with a French dressing. Her culinary
heavens rest upon the two pillars of baked beans and brown
bread Saturday night, and Indian pudding in the middle of
the week. No one ever need stumble over her furniture in the
dark; for, from time immemorial, the chairs have been placed
just so. Yet dear and sweet and true is she in all her aspects —
if a little rigid; for it is she who has retained for us the old-

150 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

fashioned favorites, the almost forgotten things with aro-
matic odors. She it is who has giant bushes of cabbage-roses,
blush-roses, moss-roses, the deliciously scented white-rose.
In her garden flourishes the heliotrope, carefully removed to a
south window through the winter. Wallflowers are there,
and fragrant evening stock, clove-pinks, and lavender, boy
love and sweet-fern. Her little bed of annuals represents
touch-me-nots and snapdragons, and zinnias and gillyflow-
ers, and she raises a puzzled eyebrow when you call them
Impatiens balsamina, Antirrhinum ma jus and Matthiola
annua.

While these are worthy exponents of the noble art of gar-
dening— and may their tribe increase, for we can never have
enough flowers in this sordid world — I find myself at variance
with their principles. I am but a beggarly creature to the
lordly owners of ten thousand flowers of any single variety; I
am wholly lacking in esthetic appreciation of cut flowers to
her who crams every fireplace, table and mantle shelf with
her posies; I am a stingy miser to the openhanded, and an
indiscriminate vagabond in the floral world to the con-
servative grower of a few favorites. I scarcely know how
to defend my position against so many opponents, and I
dare not hope to make good my cause; yet this is where
I stand.

- Once fairly launched on the catalogues, I had a consuming
desire to make the personal acquaintance of every kind of
hardy annual and perennial that I could obtain. Not that I
wanted to continue raising them all, but I could not know
them unless I grew them. Nor could I hope to accomplish
my task in a single summer; I had the remainder of my life
to pursue this fascinating question. Though I have bought
from fifty to a hundred new varieties each year, I have the
prospect of going on indefinitely. In short, my chief purpose

Some Gardeners I Have Known 151

has been to maintain a sort of experimental garden where I
might learn flowers, study them from their first seed leaves,
wateh their manner of growth, and rejoice in their first bloom.
How eagerly I have awaited this event, this manifestation of
the seen from the unseen, ignorant of the precise form it
would take. It has been as marvellous to me as if I had stood
at the elbow of Deity when the first forms were spoken into
life, and my eyes had been the first to see the results. I can-
not fashion a flower, but I can grow them, and thus repeat the
miracle of creation. So I plant my seeds, obey the laws, and
at my bidding a world of loveliness springs into existence. To
me life is life, and all life divine; and I have no more desire to
strip a plant ruthlessly of its beauty, than I have to pluck an
arm from a child, or to disfigure its face. The whole develop-
ment of a plant is sacred to me, and it has a right to fulfill its
life just as I have mine; and when this is accomplished, and
its bloom is passing, I remove all but one perfect seed-vessel,
which is carefully labeled and preserved for future use; for in
this way the plant is saved from a needless exhaustion of its
vitality. Flowers are protected in my garden, and by making
the conditions favorable for plant forms to grow to perfection,
I feel that I cooperate with the vast cosmic law, that is guiding
every manifestation of the Spirit through varied and progress-
ive material forms: in my small way, I can thus aid and fur-
ther the great cause of evolution of that, which is ready, at
this particular moment of its existence, to take the special
form of plant life in my garden. Does not this place in the
reverent gardener's hand a divine commission? This may
seem a fine-spun theory to the orthodox, but it gives a joyous
impulse to the watering-pot!

Encyclopedias of horticulture become intensely interest-
ing when we grasp that they are the genealogical records and
biographies of various manifestations of Spirit on a lower

152 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

plane, where each entity has its own name, its family history
and its native country. They record a world-wide compulsory
emigration, and not infrequently the unwilling colonist has
died of homesickness; others adapt themselves to strange con-
ditions only after generations — but they are never again the
same creatures. Not having evolved to the stage of locomo-
tion, the achievements of plant life are circumscribed to the
number, size, color and arrangement of leaf and flower. Some
have developed the talent of fragrance; some have the genius
of beautiful flower and fruit. Each one strives to manifest the
perfect type, though few reach perfection. The family is rep-
resented in youth and age, the young offsets or shoots spring-
ing up about the parent stock. Some have a desire for travel
and fling their seeds out upon the winds. Some families show
great inequalities of development, having branches that have
not progressed beyond the tiny herb, while other members
have aspired to the higher forms of shrubs.

The orthodox have claimed that the earth and the fruits
thereof were made for man. But I came to a truer knowledge
one summer when, picking wild strawberries, I caught a
glimpse of this truth: that each manifestation in the plant or
animal world exists primarily for its own private evolutionary
purposes; but that since both men and strawberries are de-
rived from the same source, and equally obey the cosmic law
that no creation liveth or dieth unto itself, there is that fine
adaptation to each other, that fits the lower to serve the higher,
without making that service the ultimate end of its existence.
Its utility is merely a by-product of its life. It is the germinal
form of a larger phase, which we call cooperative brother-
hood, that vibrates through the whole universe.

I have become so sensitive to the Spirit in my plants, that
at times when the garden is at its height, I am overwhelmed
with its fulness of life, and am often filled with a deep mel-

Some Gardeners I Have Known 153

ancholy as I walk among my children — little creatures that
have taken form at my bidding; for I am burdened with the
heavy responsibility of having called so many into existence,
and there are seasons when I cannot provide properly for
their meat and drink, and on every side I feel their mute
claims upon me, their foster parent. We feel a pitiful sym-
pathy for the limitations of our dumb four-footed brothers,
who yet speak eloquently through their eyes; but what of
the unuttered gratitude or sorrows of our garden friends,
who find no adequate expression to reach the careless heart
of him who is pledged to love and cherish them? Their
dumb silence touches me almost more deeply in their joy on
a June morning than does their bitter pain under an August
drought.

Spencer says the quality of life is determined by the degree
of response to environment. If this be true, what is the quality
of life that points a grown-up finger helplessly at the ordinary
maple, oak or elm, our daily companions in either city or
country, and says, "What tree is that?" that glances casually
at the commonest flowers, poppies, morning-glories — even a
nasturtium — and asks in good faith, " What is that ? " Surely
such a response to environment needs quickening, and I give
as the chief reason for my garden efforts that I wanted to
know something definite of the floral world; I wanted to re-
spond intelligently to this beautiful phase of human environ-
ment. A single specimen is sufficient to study and cherish.
It is enough for me to have a single Ulmariajilipendula, with
its extending family, and watch with keen interest for the
precise date when it breaks each year into soft foamy white
bloom. No stray visitor in the garden knows of my modest
Ulmaria, nor of my one exquisite Triteleia laxa, now multi-
plied twentyfold, with its fragile thread-like stems and
starry blossoms, nor the corner where the Houstonia grows,

154 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

nor a hundred other dainty tidbits that are their own excuse
for being. But I can close my eyes when a thousand miles
away from them and make an exact diagram of each bed with
its loved tenants. I often think that to inherit a garden, would
be much like coming into possession of another's life at middle
age. One would not know what to expect. What complica-
tions would arise! How little would be understood!

My next reason is that a garden gratifies my love of color
and form. I do not care for it so much as a mass, although it
is very beautiful with its successive waves of pink, blue and
white — the white recurring at intervals like a chorus in the
midst of a continuous melody; I love to descend to particulars,
to get down close to a plant, study its manner of growth, the
form and texture of leaf and petal and their markings, ob-
serve the perfect harmony of color and number as presented
in stem, leaf, calyx, corolla and stamens. The stamens of
some flowers are indescribably beautiful. I have sat and
watched the soft gray green stamens and white filaments of
a grayish lavender poppy until they seemed the most perfect
example of beauty in all the world. I know one sensitive soul,
who said to me once with brimming eyes, as we stood looking
at a pale pink gladiolus with its lavender anthers, "It is so
beautiful, it hurts." What could be more lovely than the
carmine stems of the Stephenandraflexuosa, or the mahogany
stems of the Gaura; or the red-tipped foliage of the Spirea
superba; or the heart of a Lancaster rose or an oriental poppy;
or the lyre-shaped markings in the throat of the martynia; or
the bearded throat of the iris or Pogonia? Emerson says: "I
do not so much marvel at the beauty of the world, as at the
necessity of beauty."

A third and very cogent reason for my garden is to distrib-
ute the roots and seeds about the country side. With few
exceptions perennials increase so rapidly either from the root

WHITE FLOWERS RECURRING LIKE A CHORUS IN A CONTINUOUS

MELODY [P. 154]

WILD WHITE DAISIES UNDER CULTIVATION [P. 179]

Some Gardeners I Have Known 155

or through self-sown seeds, that one must divide his stock
yearly to preserve any sort of balance. It takes time to secure
the first increase, particularly if one buys only a single plant
of any one variety; but in the course of three or four years his
loaves are so multiplied that he can give away a basketful. If
I have a choice recipe, a rare plant, a good book, I must share
them; and I hope the time may come when my best and
choicest plants shall be the common property of the entire
region. When I give any treasure it is always with the in-
junction— "You must pass it along when it begins to mul-
tiply." If all gardens were thus distributed, we should not
need to organize village-improvement societies; a generous
rivalry would spring up that would leave no dooryard un-
graced.

Eager as I am to distribute roots and seeds, I never offer cut
flowers to my visitors, and this withholding of what to me
is too precious for an indiscriminate sacrifice, is often severely
judged; yet I find all true flower lovers feel the same about
this point.

My home is the rendezvous of many interesting people, who
summer in our region within a radius of fifteen miles, and
often it would seem as if we were holding a reception. Pray
what would my garden look like if each visitor went away
with her two hands as full as they could hold ? As it is, Mary's
eyes are not always blue, nor her hair in curl. My apologies
for bare green spots and bloomless sections are profuse; for,
like other gardeners, my aim is to have the whole garden in
perfect flower all the time. I wish my midsummer visitors
were clairvoyant, and could see in my aura the loveliness of
May and June. In August when poor Mary's eyes no longer
shine, I have to groom the garden and rake the walks more
assiduously than ever to make a presentable appearance,
:much as a middle-aged belle depends more and more upon

156 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

her steamed complexion, heightened by rouge and cosmetics,
adopts a restricted diet, massage and Delsarte to preserve her
fast-waning beauty. When locks grow thin, they can at least
be parted neatly; and a careful removal of faded and dead
growths keeps a September garden trim and neat.

One more reason for my garden, if any further be needed,
is that it affords the most delightful and wholesome exercise
imaginable. True, one is not beautiful in big, stout boots, in
short skirt and too often collarless waist. Freckles and sun-
burn and roughened hands are not the usual weapons of co-
quetry. What matter these disqualifications when you have
plotted a whole week for a free day in the garden? I have
risen at half past five o'clock to get a good start; I have worked
in the hot sun until I was forced to retreat for a few minutes
under a tree to cool off; I have paused from sheer fatigue mid-
way to the garden with a wheelbarrow of stones for a wall to a
new terrace, and questioned if that present moment yielded
the pure joy I had been anticipating for a whole week. I have
rested shovel in hand while digging into a bank, to wipe my
weeping brow just as a street laborer does, and recovering
breath, asked myself why I was eager to do such work ? To
none of my questions have I ever found an answer, save that
it was for the joy of the doing, and for the results that justify
the hard work. Without these preparatory labors the gar-
den could not have existed. From the very start I decided
that I should have nothing done that I could not do myself;
this was to be my one plaything, devised for my individual
pleasure and exercise, and when it became too ambitious for
my hands to tend, I'd give it up.

All I know of these specially appointed days is that they
are too short, too few; the hours do not exist. I have clumped
into the house at six at night — having taken only a reluctant
period of rest at noon during a hasty dinner — so tired and

Some Gardeners I Have Known 157

stiff that I could hardly move — but so happy, so content, so
full of the events of the day that I could hardly wait till the
morrow to resume the work. This does not explain the fas-
cination; I merely know that it exists and continues unabated
year after year. After eight years I am still of the mind to
have no stone walls that I cannot lay myself — and I have
grown as fastidious about the selection and placing of my
stones as a lapidary who works in mosaic — I shall have no new
beds that I cannot prepare. At this moment I have just com-
pleted new extensions, a mood that takes me each autumn.
And what lessons have come to me through this so-called
drudgery! Who shall measure the impetus to horticulture
every amateur gives, when insuperable obstacles are sur-
mounted, and proof is made that a truly beautiful garden is
possible where conditions were supposed to be impossible ?
It was only through the toilsome erection of overshadowing
stone walls and careful digging out, refilling and fertilizing the
beds, that our barren dry hill-top was capable of growing any-
thing. Every step of this preparation was necessary to secure
the perfect bloom. In short the garden as it now stands is the
fine flowering of the varied manual effort that prepared it. I
sought still further to see if the analogy would hold true be-
yond matter, and I saw that the beautiful glimpses of truth
that had illumined so many of my working hours were a more
etherialized flower and fruit of labor; that in my intimate per-
sonal contact with matter I had learned that it is but a symbol
of spirit : matter had become the interpreter of higher things.
Labor was the nexus which had linked matter with spirit, and
through it, gradually, the many problems that confront my
awakening soul are becoming plain and intelligible. Now
when I address the elemental forms of rock and soil or the
more spiritualized form of plant life, or my own inner con-
sciousness, they all speak the same language, and proclaim

158 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

the same truths. I feel unified and in harmony with the world
about me; I am one of the working forces of Nature. So the
real flower of the garden is ever extending onward and upward
as a revelation of spiritual insight. It is more to me than pul-
pits and books; it answers all questions; it purifies my beliefs
and confirms my visions.

A DEDICATION

UR labor is but a manifestation of our thought, and
in its performance we may swink and toil under
the burden, or we may use matter joyously as a
plastic means to an end.

No one should have a garden which grows nothing but
flowers, and yields no other recompense to the gardener ex-
cept successful plants. Over, beyond and above must hover
the spirit of poetry, of wonder, of mystery; otherwise there
comes a day of disillusion when you awaken to the weariness,
anxiety and watchfulness, and begin to measure the reward.
You need a larger insight, something that connects your ef-
forts with the universal in nature, the ideal, the soul of things.
Into this you may lift the garden, and at once drop the tired
body and soiled hands, and the whole material aspect of labor.

For six summers I had watched the sun and rain weave a
garment of flowers over the bare earth, and knowing that each
creation of Nature differs from aught else in the universe, I
sought to find wherein lay the essential difference between my
garden and all others. By day and night I observed the play
of color, the quantity and direction of light, the atmospheric
effects; and it becomes a vastly interesting study to see how a
familiar object behaves itself from da^ to day, how it ac-
cepts its environment, and adjusts itself to heat and cold, to
sun and cloud. Each day the expectant eye catches a fresh
glimpse of an infinite variety.

In time I discerned the soul of my garden, which mani-
fested itself in its long subtile shadows. It was as if Nature

159

160 Hardy Plants for Cottage Gardens

had forbidden any but the soft gray shadows to enter; they,
who love to magnify and duplicate beautiful things, alone
were allowed to walk softly among the trees and flowers at
dawn and twilight; and through the long moon-lit nights they
molded with deft fingers images of all they saw. But never
was a direct shadow permitted to enter. In recognition of
this mysterious beauty, a tablet has been erected bearing the
name of the garden in Japanese characters

THE GARDEN OF OBLIQUE SHADOWS

SHA YEI YEN

CLASSIFIED LISTS

A WORD TO THE READER

tf the following classification I do not offer an ex-
haustive list of hardy trees, shrubs, perennials or
annuals. Many are omitted that are choice, but
not quite hardy beyond the latitude of New York
City; also very expensive varieties are not included among
shrubs. I name those that I have actually grown, or am now
experimenting with. The nomenclature has been derived
from Nicholson's "Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening,"
Asa Gray's "Field, Forest and Garden," R. G. Leavitt's
" Outlines of Botany," and Mrs. Loudon's "Gardening for
Ladies."

In making color divisions, I have given "White Flowers"
the first place, because the majority of plants have one or
more white varieties. The cultural directions for those
grouped under "White Flowers" will not be repeated in other
lists, even though their names may appear, duly recorded as
special varieties, under other color lists. Should a plant have
no worthy white variety and appear for the first time under
"Blue" or other color, the cultural directions will accompany
its first mention, to which the reader will be referred for the
culture of subsequent varieties, that may occur in later color
lists; and so on throughout the whole Appendix.

I have arranged this very simple, though seemingly com-
plex, classification, which catalogues each plant separately
throughout the different lists just as far as it has representa-
tives of pure color, in order to give amateurs every oppor-

163

164 Classified Lists

tunity to choose not only their favorite flowers, but the exact
variety that represents the color they may desire.

It should be borne in mind that the date of blooming given
in these lists is for a place lying a little north of 43° latitude,
which has a season a few days later than that of Boston, and
two weeks later than New York, and a month later than
Washington, D. G.

Without wishing to discriminate against others, who may
be equally reliable, I take pleasure in commending several
firms that exercise especial care in regard to the quality of the
stock they send out: for seeds, Schlegel & Fottler and R.
and J. Farquhar, both of Boston; and for shrubs and plants
I recommend, to New England purchasers, Fred'k H. Hors-
ford, of Charlotte, Vt.; and to those of southern latitudes,
Wilkinson Elliott, of Pittsburgh, Pa., and Bobbink & Atkins,
of Rutherford, N. J.

WHITE FLOWERS

APRIL

WHITE SHRUBS— None

APRIL
WHITE PERENNIALS

CROCUS (C. vernis, var. Mont Blanc). 4 in. Single erect lily-shaped
flowers; leaves striped with white. Each year the old corm or bulb
dies out and new ones are formed. When the foliage dies after the plant
flowers the bulbs may be lifted, divided and reset, allowing room to
spread. If lifted before ripe, replant at once in another place to ripen.
They do best in a sandy loam and leaf mold, mixed with a few small
stones to insure drainage. For lilac, violet and yellow varieties see Blue
and Yellow Per. for April.

PANSY or HEART'S-EASE (Viola tricolor). 6-12 in. Many hybri-
dized varieties in white. A universal favorite that is seldom grown to
perfection by amateurs. For early flowering in April and May, sow
seeds the previous summer, and keep the young plants over winter
either in a cold frame, or transplant where they are to remain and cover
lightly with coarse hay as a winter mulch. For summer bloom, sow
seed as soon as the ground is mellow. Pansies require a sandy but rich
soil, moisture and partial shade. All seed-vessels must be picked off,
and if inclined to grow straggly, prune the plant to make a close growth.
Do not expect too much of them in midsummer, for they flower best in
spring and autumn, and suffer from heat and drought. Plant deeply
to keep roots cool. For other varieties see Blue and Yellow Per. for
April.

SNOWDROP (Galanthus nivalis). 5 in. Single nodding white flowers
borne on slender stems. The bulbs should remain in the ground as
they dry out when lifted and lose their vitality. Single and double

165

1 66 Classified Lists

varieties. Give a rich light soil, and they will thrive under the drip of
trees. They are increased by offsets. It may be planted with Scilla
Sibirica which blooms at the same time.

MAY
WHITE SHRUBS

AZALEA MOLLIS. 3-4 ft. A very handsome shrub that I cannot
recommend as hardy, as it winter-killed the first winter.

FLOWERING ALMOND (Prunus Japonica). 4 ft. A low hardy shrub
generally, but erroneously, known as Prunus nana, with handsome
white or pink double flowers in clusters of twos or threes borne along
stalks 2-4 ft. high. It is propagated by suckers and thrives in any good
garden soil. Prune after flowering. It requires no winter protection.
It is effective planted with a background of evergreens. See Pink
Shrubs, May.

BRIDAL WREATH (Spirea prunifolia, var. flore pleno). 5-6 ft. A
slender hardy shrub bearing a profusion of double white blossoms along
the upper portion of its branches. All Spireas flourish best in rich
moist soil, and spread by suckers at the root; can be increased by cut-
ting through the extending roots, and after they establish themselves
independently, replant them. In common with other Spireas the fo-
liage turns a beautiful red in autumn, and looks well when planted
near the white Boltonia asteroides which blossoms late in the autumn.

DEUTZIA. Slender (D. gracilis). 1-2 ft. A low bushy shrub with
panicles of snow-white flowers that resemble miniature snowdrops. A
beautiful variety, but not quite hardy and should have slight protection
in winter. Give a light rich soil.

DEUTZIA (D. Lemoinei). 2-3 ft. A later hybrid form, having a
stouter growth than Z>. gracilis, larger pure white flowers, reddish
yellow stamens. Late May or early June.

FRINGE. White (Chionanthus Virginicus). 10 ft. A hardy shrub
with long clusters of fragrant fringe-like white flowers and large leaves
that appear very late in the spring, and for this reason should be placed
in the rear of other shrubbery. They turn a rich yellow in autumn.
Does best in sandy moist loam and sheltered position. It can be in-
creased by layering or seeds, and it may be grafted or budded on the
common ash.

White Flowers 167

LEUCOTHOE CATESB^EI. 4 ft. An almost evergreen shrub, leaves on
long stems; handsome pure white flowers though their odor is unpleasant
to some. Give a rich moist soil, sun and sheltered position.

LILAC. White (Syringa vulgarisj var. alba grandiflora). 6-10 ft.
A hardy shrub of more graceful and slender growth than the common
purple variety. It also bears smaller more open clusters of snow-white
fragrant flowers. By keeping the roots heavily mulched with manure
it throws out an abundance of suckers, which may be separated from
the parent bush; propagated also by layering the branches. Should
have a sheltered position, for it is sometimes blighted, when about to
flower, by late spring frosts. After blooming cut off seed-vessels, else
the buds for the next year will not form well and the bloom will be
reduced.

PEARL BUSH (Exochorda grandiflora, sometimes called Spirea grandi-
flora). A beautiful shrub, often growing to a small tree with large white
flowers growing in axillary clusters; has a rather naked, straggling
growth and should be pruned to a compact form or planted in the rear
of other shrubs; propagated by seeds, suckers and layering. Give cul-
ture similar to Spireas. Blooms late in May or early June.

PLUM. Purple-leaved (Prunus Pissardi). A small tree with incon-
spicuous white blossoms, but prized for its bark and foliage. In the
spring, the bark on the new growths is deep purple, and the bursting
leaves are a violet crimson. Later they take a darker hue which they
hold all summer without fading. Without a rival as an ornamental
tree, though its fruit is inferior.

SHAD BUSH, JUNEBERRY (Amelanchier Canadensis). 4-12 ft. A
hardy bush or low tree with foliage of tender reddish green in spring,
and of rich hue in autumn. The large and open-petalled white flowers
are borne in long drooping racemes. In the wild state the growth is
rather straggling, but it can be grafted on the hawthorn or quince and
make a finer effect. It requires rich loam, and is propagated by layers
or cuttings.

SNOWDROP TREE, SILVER BELL (Halesia tetraptera). 4-18 ft. A
handsome shrub or small tree wild along streams from Virginia, South,
but planted for ornament North. Bears showy drooping flowers from
the axils of fallen leaves of the previous year; should have a sheltered
position in deep sandy moist soil; propagated by cuttings in spring and
autumn. Not quite hardy far North if exposed.

SPIREA ARGUTA. 3 ft. A variety closely related to S. Thunbergii.

1 68 Classified Lists

Slender branches, flowers pearly white, enveloping the entire bush.
One of the best early shrubs. For culture of all Spireas see Bridal
Wreath.

SPIREA PRUNIFOLIA, see Bridal Wreath.

SPIREA THUNBERGII. 2-3 ft. A dwarf compact shrub with slender
graceful branches, blooms very early with snow-white flowers in long
open sprays. A beautiful variety.

SPIREA VAN HOUTTEI, an improved form of S. trilobata. 3-5 ft.
A spreading bush with long drooping branches, that are literally covered
with flat clusters of white flowers; blooms several weeks later than
S. Thunbergii, and is especially recommended.

ST. PETER'S WREATH, ITALIAN MAY (Spirea hypericifolia). 3-6 ft.
A hardy shrub with long drooping branches, small white flowers in
small flat heads. For culture see Bridal Wreath.

THORN. Scarlet-fruited (Cratcegus coccinea). 3-6 ft. A hardy
shrub or small tree, very ornamental because of its handsome foliage,
flowers and scarlet fruit. The white flowers are borne in numerous
clusters. It requires a dry sunny situation, and is propagated by seeds
that sometimes lie for two years without germinating. One of our
most beautiful native shrubs, but rather difficult to transplant.

MAY
WHITE PERENNIALS

ARABIS ALBIDA, see Rock Cress.

ASPERULA ODORATA, see Sweet Woodruff.

ASPHODEL (Asphodelus albus). 2 ft. Lily-like leaves form a tuft
at base from which rise tall spikes of clustered white flowers; should
have deep sandy loam. They increase rapidly by suckers which should
be divided and reset in the spring. For yellow variety see Yellow Per.
for May.

CANDYTUFT. Evergreen (Iberis sempervirens). i ft. A choice
perennial bearing the greatest profusion of snow-white flowers in flat
heads almost three inches across; thrives in any good soil and sunny
exposure. Sow seed in spring and set out in September. Increased
also by cuttings and division of root; is self -sowing. It is beautiful
when grown with Lychnis dioica, Mertensia Virginica, Phlox sublata,
or grape hyacinth.

White Flowers 169

COLUMBINE (Aquilegia chrysantha, var. alba). 2-3 ft. The colum-
bine is one of the most desirable of our hardy perennials and comes
in every color and variety of combinations. The divided foliage makes
a bushy growth from which spring many tall stalks bearing erect or
drooping flowers that take the form of a cluster of spurred cups. They
do best in a rich sandy loam. They are much sought by bees that
cross-fertilize the varieties. The way to perpetuate a strain is either
to divide the root, or to cover the plant with fine muslin during the
flowering season, so that insects cannot get access to the flowers. Sow
the seeds when they are ripe, and transplant the seedlings where they
are to remain, giving each a space of 9 in. each way. Self-sowing; and
though the self-sown plants are particularly vigorous, they are not true
to color. From seeds derived from a pale lavender columbine I grew
every tone of pink and red, the palest rose, deeper rose salmon, shell
pink, old rose and old red. It is in this way that new varieties are
secured.

ENGLISH DAISY (Bellis perennis, var. Snowball). 4 in. A hardy
border plant making a tuft of leaves bearing numerous quilled white or
white and pink flowers. It thrives best in rich well-manured loam in a
cool shady situation. An English authority recommends taking up
and dividing plants two or three times a season. They bear transplant-
ing even in full flower if taken up with a portion of soil attached. Prop-
agate from seed; if sown in early spring it blooms the first year late in
July.

FORGET-ME-NOT (Myosotis alpeslris, var. albus). i ft. A very hardy
variety of Forget-me-not in white, sky blue and pink, which makes a
close tuft of leaves from which spring many loose spikes of small blos-
soms with a yellow eye. One of the most valuable of early perennials
either for bedding or as a border plant. It may be planted among hya-
cinths or tulips, which will be out of bloom by the time the Forget-me-
not is budding. Alternated with ^Egopodium varigata, the blue variety
of Myosotis makes a lovely border. Give a rich soil and sunny position;
when once established it reproduces itself freely from self-sown seed.
Plants derived from seed sown in early spring are especially strong and
prolific in bloom the second year. See Blue and Pink Per. May.

HYACINTH (Hyadnthus orientalis, var. La Grandesse). i ft. An
early spring bulb with thick lily-like leaves and a close large spike of
waxy fragrant flowers. Plant in October an equal depth of three or
four inches in light rich soil in sunny location. Give a light mulch

170 Classified Lists

through the winter. After blooming in the spring cut off the flower
stalks and allow the plant to ripen. When the leaves turn yellow, lift
and dry slowly and store in a dry cool place to be replanted in autumn.
Mature bulbs deteriorate in time, so in order to keep up stock, remove
small offsets when the bulbs are taken up, and plant in a nursery bed to
the depth of two or three inches; they will flower the third year. To
increase a rare variety the Dutch make one or two cross-cuts half way
through a strong bulb after taking it up, and the next year it makes but
little growth, but forms a quantity of small bulbs. These are separated
and planted in nursery beds where they mature the third year. For
other varieties see Blue, Yellow, Pink and Red Per. May.

HYACINTH. Roman (Hyacinthus orientates, var. albulus), i ft., is the
parent of the Roman Hyacinth. It is more slender and delicate in
growth than the common Hyacinth, but its culture is the same.

ICELAND POPPY (Papaver nudicaule). 1-2 ft. A hardy plant with
ornamental cut leaves forming a low tuft from which rise slender erect
stalks bearing single and double white flowers. Give a good garden
loam and sunny position. They are not very permanent and though
they are self-sowing to a degree, it is well to sow a little seed each year
to furnish new seedlings. Vigorous plants should flower for several
months, and to promote bloom keep the seed-vessels picked closely.
A light covering during winter is desirable. For other variety see Yellow
Per. May.

IRIS. German (/. Germanica, var. Silver King and Florentine).
2 ft. A hardy perennial with sword-shaped leaves, large showy silvery
white flowers from 4-6 in. across, and thick rootstocks that tend to in-
crease at the surface of the ground. For this reason the roots must not
be covered, as they rot readily, and do best in a well drained soil. They
are propagated by breaking the rootstocks into sections and replanting
in September, but it takes a year or two to get established, and they
bloom with more certainty if left undisturbed for three or four years.
See Blue and Yellow Per. May.

LILY OF THE VALLEY (Convallaria majalis). 6 in. A familiar favo-
rite, with two broad lily leaves, and single stalks of small sweet-scented
globular flowers. Should have light moist soil, enriched with leaf
mould. There is an erroneous impression that this plant needs shade,
and it is too frequently given a cheerless north exposure, or a neglected
corner of a garden. As it grows shabby after blooming it should not
have a prominent position, but give it a warm shelter and considerable

White Flowers 171

sun. Divide the clumps every few years in the early autumn, for the
running rootstocks crowd each other and it does not flower so well.
Plant the crowns or root buds so that their points are just below the
surface, giving them room to spread. These root buds bear only leaves
the first year, small flowers the second and are in full perfection the third
year. Top-dress with manure in autumn.

NARCISSUS, POET'S, PHEASANT'S EYE (N. poeticus). 18 in. A hardy
bulbous plant with narrow lily leaves and broad showy fragrant white
flowers slightly nodding. Does well in any good soil, and is increased
by offsets, and should remain undisturbed unless the roots become
crowded. The foliage should be allowed to wither naturally as in the
case of Hyacinths, Tulips, Lily of the Valley, for new bulbs do not form
well when the leaves are cut off as soon as the flower has faded. If this
is persisted in, it finally kills the plant. Divide clumps in July or August;
if done later it checks the new growth. Top-dress when the foliage is
removed.

NARCISSUS. Double (N. poeticus, var. alba plena odorata). A double
variety of the above.

NARCISSUS (N. poeticus ornatus). An improved variety of poeticus ,
that is larger and blooms earlier.

PHLOX. Creeping (Phlox sublata, var. alba). 6 in. A low creeping
border plant making a dense mat of prostrate branches, which bear
quantities of flowers an inch across. By shaking loose soil amongst the
plants in summer, the trailing branches will take root and can be di-
vided and reset in autumn. Give a sunny sheltered situation as it
sometimes winter-kills in severe open winters in the North, and it should
have a light mulch. For pink variety see Pink Per. May.

POPPY. Iceland, see Iceland Poppy.

ROCK CRESS (Arabis albida). 6-9 in. One of the earliest border
perennials which continues to flower from early May until autumn;
bears fragrant white flowers in terminal racemes; gray woolly leaves
sparingly toothed; thrives in dry shady location or in full sun; is prop-
agated by division of the root, seed or cuttings.

ROCK CRESS. Alpine (Arabis alpina). 6 in. A smaller and later
variety making a close busy growth, plant downy, leaves sharply
toothed.

SAXIFRAGE. Early (Saxifraga Virginiensis). 9 in. A low-growing
native plant making a flat tuft of leaves from which spring close heads
of white flowers borne on naked stems. It should be more often culti-

172 Classified Lists

vated, and can be used as a border plant with blue Forget-me-not.
Propagate by division and seed.

SWEET WOODRUFF (Asperula odorata). 6-8 in. Bears snowy white
terminal clusters of delicate flowers, stems four-sided, leaves in a whorl;
scentless when fresh, but when dried has an agreeable perfume; is used
to spread among clothes to keep insects from them. Give a moist
shaded location; spreads rapidly; divide roots, also propagate by seed.

TULIP (Tulipa gesneriana, var. L. Immaculee and Pottebakker) .
i ft. A hardy bulbous plant with broad leaves and erect lily-shaped
flowers; requires a sunny sheltered position; plant six inches apart in
October or early November to the depth of three to four inches with a
little sand about the bulb to prevent rotting. After blooming, allow
leaves to turn brown before lifting; dry slowly out of the sun and store
in bags or drawers where the air can circulate. If the garden space is
needed at once, take up the bulbs and plant at once in another situation
where they can ripen; then store. Can be propagated by seeds or off-
sets; either is a slow process. Seeds sown in February in a cold frame,
and protected the first winter, may be planted out the following spring,
and will bloom in four or five years. The first year they are usually
self-colored, but afterward assert their own coloring and markings.
New varieties are obtained this way. The small offsets must be removed
when the mature plants are taken up, and may be set out in a little
nursery where they will mature in a year or two. The Tulip comes in
almost every coloring; for other varieties, see Tulip under other lists.

JUNE
WHITE SHRUBS

ARROWWOOD (Viburnum dentatum). See Snowball.

DOGWOOD. Flowering (Cornus florida). 8-12 ft. A small tree
with wide-spread branches, flowering at the end; and what is mistaken
for the blossom, is a whorl of four large leaves of creamy white sur-
rounding the true flowers that are inconspicuous; fruit bright scarlet;
foliage turns crimson and purple in autumn. Slow growing; give a rich
soil and moist situation.

HOBBLEBUSH, WAYFARING BUSH (Viburnum lantanoides) . 3-5 ft.
A native shrub with handsome large leaves and broad flat heads of
sterile flowers encircled with showy white flowers; berry turns a bril-

White Flowers 173

liant red in early autumn, and the foliage becomes a rich old rose hue.
.Notwithstanding these features the bush itself is not handsome, because
of its long naked straggling branches, and should be planted among
other shrubbery such as Spireas, Flowering Almond or Stephenandra
flexuosa which are of similar height. It is hard to transplant, unless
taken young, though it can be propagated by bending down its branches,
lagging securely; these take root easily and can be severed; hence its
j)opular name. Give a rich moist soil and shade.

ITEA VIRGINICA. 5-8 ft. Flowers in terminal clusters; leaves turn
in midsummer from green to scarlet crimson and retain the shade until
autumn. It should have a prominent place among white summer
perennials. Give a sheltered position and protection in winter, for some
report that it is not quite hardy.

LABRADOR TEA (Ledum latifolium). 2-4 ft. A low evergreen shrub
with glossy elliptical leaves revolute at the edges, covered on the under
side with a soft cottony lining which becomes rusty. Flowers, in large
terminal clusters, are very handsome; the whole plant has a strong
aromatic fragrance. This shrub should be more often cultivated.
Sparingly found in New England.

LOCUST-TREE, FALSE ACACIA (Robinia pseudacacia) . 10-30 ft. One
of our most ornamental trees with pinnate leaves and great drooping
clusters of fragrant white flowers. If given severe pruning for several
years, while still a low shrub, it will induce a thicker growth, and pre-
vent it running up to a tall tree with naked trunk and bare lower
branches. It has a bad habit of spreading from the root and may
easily become a pest. It is used also as a stock upon which may be
grafted the Rose Acacia (Robinia hispida) a very beautiful rose-colored
variety of low growth.

MOUNTAIN ASH, European (Sorbus Americana). 30 ft. Pinnate
leaves, white flowers followed by clusters of handsome red berries.
Very hardy.

ROSES, GENERAL CULTURE OF. Roses should be given a well-drained,
warm, sunny location protected from winds. The bed should be dug
out from two to three feet, and if the soil is wet, should have at least six
inches of loose stones or broken brick at the bottom for drainage. Fill
the beds to the depth of a foot with well-rotted coarse dressing, cow
manure and grass sods turned upside down; over this should be several
inches of rich light loam. Upon this loam set the roses, carefully spread-
ing out the roots, and then fill the beds to within two inches of the top

174 Classified Lists

with a rich compost of loam, manure, leaf mold and a little sand.
Add clay to the soil for Hybrid Perpetuals. In planting budded roses
set the budded parts two or three inches below the surface of the ground,
to prevent throwing out suckers; press the soil well in about the roots,
leaving a slight depression about the root so that when watered the
moisture may be all absorbed. For winter protection, draw the earth
well up about the roots (for Teas it may be a foot or eighteen inches
deep); peg down any long branches; cover with a foot or two of coarse
grass or hay, and over this a few inches of coarse manure — green manure
will answer, and a part of it may be dug in in the spring. Very hardy
varieties do not need so heavy a mulch, only a little manure at the roots
and a few inches of dry leaves and a bough or two to keep them in place.
It is well to wrap the stalks from six to twelve inches high with tarred
paper, just before the manure is placed about the roots, as a preventive
against mice which work close to the ground. When in bud give fre-
quent weak solutions of liquid manure, and continue through the flower-
ing season. This may be made by securing a stout burlap bag to a
barrel hoop, and placing in it a half bushel of manure and suspending
it in a barrel partly filled with water; or sheep manure in the proportion
of a pound to five gallons of water, and when used, as much more water
may again be added. In setting out, prune from one third to one half,
cutting just above a bud on the outside of the cane, and cut off smoothly
all broken or bruised roots. At no time prune too severely, as it induces
vigorous leafy shoots, but no flowers. Pruning a collection of mixed
roses is a serious matter, and needs much study and knowledge of
particular varieties. Some may be cut within six inches of the ground;
others, like the dwarf Hybrid Perpetuals, should be slightly pruned in
the spring, and cut back at least one half after the blooming season is
over; others, like the Teas and Hybrid Teas, can bear only a gentle
pruning, little more than cutting away dead or weak wood when the
dormant buds begin to swell; otherwise one may mistake live wood for
dead. Roses may be planted either in the autumn, some say rather
early, others advise November; or they may be set out in early spring
while still dormant. They should be taken up every four or five years
and reset in a new place, or in newly enriched soil. To propagate roses
take cuttings six inches long late in October or November— after the
wood has ripened and the leaves have fallen. Tie them in bundles and
store for the winter in boxes of damp sand set in a cold frame or cellar
where they will be protected from frost. Or the cuttings may be buried

White Flowers 175

out of doors in sand, putting them eighteen inches deep, and giving
them further protection from the frost by a thick mulch of leaves or
manure. In spring as soon as the ground can be worked, plant the
cuttings in trenches leaving only one bud above ground. In making
cuttings, cut just under a bud, which enables them to root more easily.
For further directions see PROPAGATION OF PLANTS.

I have found a strong solution of Ivory soap an excellent general
spray for roses. For mildew, it is recommended to spray with i oz.
of sulphur to one gallon of water. For lice, spray with Kerosene
Emulsion made as follows: dissolve J Ib. hard soap in i gal. boiling
water, adding away from the fire, 2 gals, kerosene, and churn it well
with a hand pump. Dilute twenty times for lice, soft-bodied bugs or
caterpillars and four times for scale. For other pests and treatment
see chapter, Mine Enemies.

ROSE, Captain Christy (Rosa Indica, var. Tea). A vigorous-growing
white rose, delicately tinted with rose, very large and full flower, good
foliage; an early and late bloomer. In the coldest winters a little pro-
tection should be given.

ROSE, Margaret Dickson (Rosa Indica, var. Hybrid Perpetual).
White with a pale flesh-colored center; petals large and of firm texture;
vigorous of growth, but will run to wood if pruned too severely.

ROSE, Frau Karl Druschki (probably a hybrid Perpetual). Re-
garded as the finest white rose grown; is too vigorous in growth for
small rose beds, as it often attains five feet the first year. Blooms snow-
white, fragrant, buds frequently three to four inches long; flowers at
intervals throughout the season; requires full sun as it has a tendency
to mildew in damp weather.

ROSE, Mabel Morrison (Rosa Indica, var. Hybrid Perpetual). A
pure white, sometimes edged with pink, very large in size and hardy.

ROSE, Madame Plantier (Rosa Indica, var. Bourbon). A perfectly
hardy pure-white rose, blooming but once, but in the greatest profusion;
spreads slightly from the root, and the suckers may be severed and in
the course of a few months be lifted and reset. <

AN UNKNOWN VARIETY, 4 ft., that came originally from Virginia,
makes a strong bushy growth, leaves roughish, a free bloomer in June
only, but lasting a month or more. Heavy clusters of large white roses
shading into a delicate pinkish-yellow heart; spreads from the root.
A desirable and entirely hardy variety free from all disease, though
relished by the rose beetle.

176 Classified Lists

ROSE, White (Rosa alba). An old-fashioned white rose tinted with
blush pink, very fragrant, with smooth leaves, perfectly hardy, spreads
from the root and may be thus propagated; rather subject to disease;
blooms but once in June.

ROSE, Scotch (Rosa spinosissima). A slender low-growing, very
spiny variety, with small shell-shaped creamy flowers, some shading to
a blush pink; spreads from the root and is propagated by suckers; is
perfectly hardy, free from disease, slightly fragrant; blooms but a short
season.

ROSE, Wichuriana, var. Manda's Triumph. A trailing hardy rose,
with small, double white, very fragrant blooms. Useful for covering
banks, stone walls or trellises; requires but little pruning if used thus.

SNOWBALL TREE, GUELDER ROSE (Viburnum opulis, var. sterilis).
8-10 ft. A cultivated variety from Europe of the High Bush Cran-
berry (a native of low swampy ground), with large heads of a snow-
white sterile flowers becoming globular; hence its name. Fruit bright
red in the original variety, and used as a substitute for cranberries.
Transplant in October or November as it has few fibrous roots, and is
apt to be killed before it is established if the spring season be a dry one.
It should have a moist, even a wet location, if possible, for even when
well grown it suffers from drought. Propagate by layering or cuttings
of half ripened shoots inserted in sandy soil. Mulch in summer.

SNOWBALL, Japanese (Viburnum tomentosum also known as V. plica-
turn). Shrub of medium size, and dense heads of sterile flowers whiter
and more delicate than the common Snowball.

SNOWBALL (V. dentatum, Arrowwood). 5-10 ft. A variety with
bright blue berries.

SPIREA, Golden (Physocarpus [or Spirea] opulifolia var. aured). 5-7
ft. Double white flowers, bright yellow leaves; desirable as a foliage
plant to be used with red or purple varieties.

STEPHENANDRA FLEXUOSA. 4 ft. A hardy shrub with glossy deep-
cut leaves, stems that are crimson in spring and autumn, and clusters
of small white flowers that cover the whole bush in the blooming season.
Foliage is a beautiful reddish green in spring and autumn; a most
desirable shrub that needs no protection. Give a good loam and a
partial shade on roots.

STYRAX JAPONICA, also known as S. serrata. 10-20 ft. A very choice
shrub growing to be a tree. By nature, it assumes a single stem with
low branches; but, by pruning, it branches freely, and the small and

White Flowers 177

numerous twigs are covered with pure-white flowers an inch across,
having yellow stamens. Leaves small and light green. Related to
the Snowdrop-Tree, Halesia, but surpasses it. Seeds hang in round
balls resembling coffee. Handsome at all seasons, although the bloom
is of but short duration. Perfectly hardy.

SUMACH, Fern-leaved (Rhus glabra, var. laciniata). 3-5 ft. A low
variety with finely cut foliage on long stems, whitish flowers. The
chief beauty is the brilliant crimson hue of the leaves in autumn, when
it is compared to a ball of fire. It is best grown in the form of a low
bush with several stalks springing from a common root. Prune tips
to get a spreading top. Dry sunny situation.

SUMACH, Smooth (Rhus glabra). Whitish -green blossoms in large
branching heads; compound leaves, becoming a rich crimson in autumn;
fruit is made up of velvety berries arranged in cone-shaped spikes.
The whole appearance is very showy. It suckers badly, taking posses-
sion of entire fields, and is hard to uproot. Grows in dry sterile situa-
tions; excellent to plant about the base of trees.

SYRINGA, MOCK ORANGE (Philadelphus coronarius). 8-12 ft. A
hardy shrub making a large bush with many branching stems, large
white fragrant flowers. As it flowers on the wood of the previous year,
prune after blooming, thus encouraging new growths for the fol-
lowing year; propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering or division of the
root.

WEIGELIA (Diervilla florida, var. Candida). 5-8 ft. A commonly
cultivated shrub with cream-white funnel-shaped flowers; will grow
in any soil, sending up many suckers, by which it may be increased.
For pink and red varieties see Pink and Red Shrubs, June.

WITHE ROD or Tree (Viburnum cassinoides). 8-12 ft. Flowers
yellowish -white in crowded heads; fruit a rich deep blue, ripening in
September. Prune to a bushy form; spreads from the root; prefers wet
low ground. Mulch in summer if planted in a dry location.

JUNE
WHITE PERENNIAL HERBS

ACHILLEA, SNEEZEWORT (4. Ptarmica ft. pi., var. The Pearl). 2 ft.
One of the best perennials grown, making a low bushy plant, bearing
many loose heads of white flowers. It increases rapidly, and when out

1 78 Classified Lists

of flower, cut to the ground to promote growth. Divide in the spring;
also propagated by seeds and cuttings.

ANEMONE. Pennsylvania (A. Pennsylvania), i ft. A low herb
with radical deeply cut leaves from which spring, later, stems that bear
large snow-white flowers. Very attractive as a cut flower; spreads
badly at the root. Give a moist light loam mixed with leaf mold and
a shaded location, with plenty of room to spread. Is attacked by many
insects, especially the oil beetle. Propagate by division of root.

ARCHANGELICA (Angelica archangelica, var. oflkinalis). 4 ft. A
bushy herb with large, showy leaves, and huge flat heads of bright
white flowers; does best in moist rich soil; good to plant among shrub-
bery. It does not spread.

ASPERULA (A. hexaphylla). 2 ft. A hardy perennial with smooth
erect stems and needle-like leaves arranged in whorls of six; very small
numerous white flowers borne in airy loose clusters. It resembles
Infant's Breath. Give any good soil, in moist shaded location; if in
dry sunny place, it makes a stunted growth, and dies down early;
propagate by division or seed. Self-sowing.

BEDSTRAW. Northern (Galium boreale). i ft. A native plant that,
under cultivation, makes an ideal low bushy border plant, spreading at
the root gradually and easily divided. It has a square stem, slender
elliptical leaves arranged in a whorl of four, delicate fragrant white
flowers borne in showy terminal branching panicles. If cut back con-
tinues to bloom all summer. In its wild state it is tall and straggling
and not useful. Give full sun, a deep rich moist soil and frequent
division.

CARAWAY. Garden (Carum Carui). 2 ft. A delicate herb with
finely divided leaves and lace-like flat heads of tiny white flowers.
While it is usually grown in the herb garden for its seeds it gives light-
ness and grace to colored flowers. Give a moist rich soil.

CLEMATIS. Erect or Upright (C. recta). 2 ft. An herbaceous erect
form of Clematis, with large clusters of fragrant white flowers and
small heart-shaped pinnate leaves. Give a rich moist soil and partly
shaded position. Propagate by seeds and cuttings. Mine winter-killed.

DAISY. Paris (Chrysanthemum frutescens). 3 ft. A variety coming
in late May just after and closely resembling the common daisy in
flower, but a little larger, and literally covering with bloom the plant,
which makes a bush two feet across. In spring it throws out many
horizontal herby branches from white fibrous roots, that can easily be

White Flowers 179

divided; perfectly hardy and self-sowing. I have a curious plant of
this variety which is inclined to sport and produces two flowers joined
in one at the end of a stalk, each facing a different way. One of my
best perennials in point of bloom and vigor. Give a rich deep soil and
full sun.

DAISY. Wild White, or Whiteweed (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum
vulgar e). 2 ft. A much despised weed which makes a beautiful garden
plant under cultivation. In rich moist soil it makes a more bushy
growth, and bears quantities of large white flowers on tall stems. Daisy-
shaped flowers add much to the grace of the garden, and as these come
earlier than the Chrysanthemum maximum and Shasta Daisy, they
supply the early type of this plant. Do not let it go to seed, but propa-
gate by division of root.

DODECATHEON, SHOOTING STAR, AMERICAN COWSLIP (D, Meadia)

i ft. A curious growth with a low tuft of leaves from which spring a
simple flower- stalk a foot high, bearing handsome white nodding
flowers with reflexed corolla; also a pink variety. It requires a rich
moist soil; dies down in midsummer; increase by seed and division of
root. See Pink Per. June.

DROPWORT (Spirea filipendula, var. fl. pi.}, i ft. Known also as
Ulmaria filipendula. A most lovable plant of delicate beauty, with
finely divided fern-like leaves forming a tuft, from which spring a num-
ber of stalks bearing loose clusters of small white flowers, a close rosette
in shape. It requires rich, moist soil and spreads slowly from the root.

FOAM FLOWER, FALSE MITREWORT (Tiarella cor dif olid), i ft. A
low running herb with a short raceme of white flowers. Good for
naturalization in damp shaded situations. Spreads gradually from the
root.

FOXGLOVE (Digitalis purpurea, var. alba). 4 ft. A handsome hardy
biennial, and, if favorably established, it is a perennial. The leaves
form a broad spreading tuft from which spring somewhat branching
flower-stalks four feet high bearing declined large white finger-shaped
flowers. If the flower-stalk is cut down after blooming the plant will
bloom again in September. It is self -sowing and the strongest plants
are thus obtained, do not try to divide; the results are not good. Give
a rich moist soil either in sun or partial shade; is often planted under
trees. Also purplish red and pink varieties, see Blue Per. and Pink Per.

GALEGA, GOAT'S RUE (G. ofjicinalis, var. alba). 3 ft. An erect
perennial with bluish-green leaves and clusters of white pea-shaped

180 Classified Lists

flowers. It makes a bushy growth, and needs room. Give it a sunny
location in a rich soil, and let grow undisturbed. Propagated by seed
and division of strong plants reset in deep rich soil. Also a blue var.;
see Blue Per.

GALIUM BOREALE, see Bedstraw, Northern.

GALIUM MOLLUGO, see Bedstraw, White. White Per. July.

GALTONIA, SUMMER HYACINTH (Hyacinthus candicans). 3 ft. A
very beautiful bulbous plant bearing racemes of large fragrant droop-
ing white flowers. It needs protection in winter. Can be raised from
seed, but it is better to propagate by offsets. Requires moist rich leaf
mold. Very late in June or early July.

GARDEN HELIOTROPE (Valeriana officinalis). 5 ft. An attractive
herb with large cut pinnate leaves and broad flat heads of small lilac-
white flowers that are deliciously fragrant; the root also has a pleasant
aromatic odor. It can easily become a pest because of its vigorous
running rootstocks. If kept under control it is one of our most desir-
able perennials; flourishes best in rich moist soil in either sun or partial
shade. Is infested by the rose-bug.

GOAT'S BEARD (Spirea Aruncus, var. astilboides) . A handsome herb
with cut foliage and compound panicles of yellowish-white flowers.
Used also as a house plant in winter. Needs rich soil. It cannot be de-
pended on, as it will survive severe winters with a little protection, but
a late spring frost will sometimes kill it. Give a sheltered position on
this account.

GOUTWEED (^Egopodium podograria, var. varigata). 2 ft. A low
running herb with beautiful soft gray-green and cream colored foliage
and flat heads of lace-like white flowers borne on stems two feet high.
When combined with blue Forget-me-not it makes a handsome border
plant; or it may be used effectively with scarlet poppies. It spreads at
the root so badly, however, that it is a great pest, and difficult to weed
out when once established. Thrives best in rich soil and partial shade.

HELIANTHEMUM, ROCKROSE or SUN ROSE (H. mutabile). 6 in. A
dwarf evergreen plant with whitish flowers that fall after the first day;
opening only in the sunshine. Propagated by seed; good after once
established; may be used as a border plant. Sandy loam, protect in
winter.

IRIS. English (/. xiphioides, var. Mont Blanc; I. Angelica of garden-
ers). 2 ft. A bulbous-rooted Iris later than the German variety, and
a little earlier than the Spanish varieties. All bulbous-rooted irises

White Flowers 181

should be lifted every two or three years, as the new bulbs are formed
directly under the old bulb, and in the course of time descend so low as
to be out of reach of the air and are lost. They should be reset in Sep-
tember in light rich soil and sunny location. For other varieties see
Blue Per. and Yellow Per.

IRIS. Spanish (/. Xiphium, var. Blanche Fleur; 7. vulgaris of garden-
ers). 2 ft. A still later variety than the English Iris. The outer petals
or falls are not like those of the usual Iris, but are long and strap-like,
bearing heart-shaped petals at the end, which gives a curious orchid
appearance. This is also bulbous, and the culture is the same as for
the English variety. For yellow and blue var. see Yellow Per. and
Blue Per. June.

LUPINE (Lupinus polyphyttus, var. albus). 3-4 ft. One of our hand-
somest perennials with palmate leaves borne on long stems and very
dense racemes (often ten to fifteen) of white pea-shaped flowers. Seed
pods are covered with silvery down. Requires rich soil, sun and mois-
ture. Dig in fertilizer each spring. Propagated by division of the root
and by seeds; is self -sowing. When once established makes a magnifi-
cent growth. See Blue Per. for blue var.

LUPINUS DOUGLASI. 3 ft. A new hybrid variety, which is a cross
between the annual and perennial varieties, blooming the first year if
started early; spikes of bloom a foot long in white, pink and blue.

MEADOW-RUE. Several varieties are native to New Hampshire, but
all are desirable plants under cultivation. The Tall Meadow-Rue
(Thalictrum polygonum) grows from 4-7 ft. with beautiful compound
foliage resembling the Columbine, and terminal loose clusters of yellow-
ish-white flowers; also Thalictrum cornuti, 4 ft. and T. adiantifolium,
2 ft. This latter variety is an excellent substitute for Maidenhair fern
which it much resembles in foliage. T. flavium has pyramidal clusters
of yellowish-white flowers and fern-like foliage that makes an excellent
substitute for ferns in arranging cut flowers. After blooming cut to the
ground as the leaves grow shabby; they all require rich moist soil, and
partial shade, at least upon the roots. ,

MUSK MALLOW (Malva moschata, var. alba). 2 ft. A hardy herb
with leaves cut into linear divisions and broad white or rose-colored
scented flowers. Grows in any good soil; propagated by seeds or di-
vision. Also pink var.; see Pink Per.

PEONY (Paonia officinalis alba, var. Marie Lemoine). 2 ft. I name
but one variety of white peony of the many that are offered. A well

182 Classified Lists

known hardy plant making a bushy growth, and bears huge double
flowers. Peonies come in almost every color and many are sweet-
scented, and there are many single varieties. Requires a rich deep soil,
and should be mulched and well watered in summer when the growth
is made. A gross feeder; dig in cow manure about the roots. Should
remain undisturbed, but can be propagated by division of strong plants
in August or September, or by seeds. New varieties are obtained by
crossing, and can be done by an amateur, if time and patience are given
to the matter.

CARNATION or CLOVE-PINK (Dianthus caryophyllus). i ft. While
this variety is most frequently seen in pots as a house plant it will bloom
in the open in four months from sowing the seed. A very full double
variety with a fragrant clove scent. It makes a tall brittle growth, and
if size of bloom is desired the plant should be disbudded and only a
single flower be allowed to bloom. Give a deep rich soil of mixed loam,
sand, cow manure or leaf mold. The buds are apt to burst on one
side, which may be obviated by gently dividing the calyx with a pin as
soon as the buds are swelled. Propagated by layering, for which, cut a
strong shoot half through in a slanting direction at a joint, and bury an
inch or two deep, fastening down with a pronged twig, or hairpin.
Moderate water and shade should be given until the shoot roots; also
propagated by cuttings in sand under glass, and by seed. Not hardy
except varieties Vienna and Grenadin in white and scarlet. The Mar-
guerite Carnation will bloom in the open from July until frost if sown
in the spring. They are half hardy, and in sheltered situations if well
mulched with coarse straw and pine boughs survive the winter.

PINK. Japanese (Dianthus Heddewigii, var. albus fl. pi.}. 2 ft. A
double white biennial variety of a beautiful but scentless pink that
blooms late the first season, and is covered with bloom the second year.
It is hardy with a slight protection in winter. Give a rich moist soil, a
sunny sheltered position.

PINK. Hardy Garden, or Common (Dianthus plumarius, var.
Cyclops), i ft. A single flowered variety of the old Scotch Pink, mak-
ing a tuft of grass-like leaves; bears quantities of small sweet-scented
whitish flowers with fringed petals. Propagated by seeds and cuttings,
and sometimes by division of root. I do not succeed with this last
method. There is also a double variety, and pink and white varieties
of double Dianthus plumarius. A beautiful border may be made by
alternating the Garden Pink with Forget-me-not.

White Flowers 183

ROCKET. Sweet (Hesperis matronalis). 2-3 ft. A hardy plant with
coarse pointed leaves and loose racemes of white and lilac flowers very
sweet-scented at nightfall with an odor like Clove-Pink. Does best in
sandy, rich moist soil. Propagate single varieties by seed, the double
variety by division of root. If taken up as soon as the flowering season
is done, and transplanted into rich light soil, it will attain an extraordi-
nary size, and flower splendidly the next season. Also a lilac variety.

ROMNEYA COULTERI. In California a shrub 6-8 ft. high, but in the
East it is nearly herbaceous. A very handsome addition to the garden,
blooming freely from early summer to autumn, with delicately scented
white flowers from 4-6 in. across, having a central boss of golden sta-
mens. It needs a sunny sheltered position and very rich soil. I have
been unable to raise it from seed and know but one nurseryman who
offers it. In a moderate climate it is certainly worth trying; it has been
known to be hardy as far north as Scotland.

SWEET-WILLIAM (Dianthus barbatus). 2 ft. A hardy garden favo-
rite that grows in a great variety of colorings. The flowers form a flat-
topped cluster, borne in great profusion. If cut back as soon as flower-
ing is over, new blooms will appear. While they can be raised easily
from seed, they rarely come true to color, owing to the cross-fertilization
by insects. Propagation of a certain variety may be secured by division
of the root or by covering a plant with fine gauze during the flowering
time. If by division, cut off the blooms as soon as the color is learned,
lift the plant and reset in very rich light soil where it will throw out a
heavy growth from the root, which may be carefully divided either in
spring or autumn and reset. Whole borders may be secured from a few
plants in two or three years. There are beautiful pale pink and bril-
liant pure red varieties that are much more attractive than those with
markings and eyes of another color. See Pink and Red Per. June.

THRIFT, SEA-PINK (Armeria cephalotes Formosa, var. alba), i ft.
A white variety with a low tuft of narrow leaves and an erect red stalk
bearing a close head of handsome flowers. It is difficult to divide the
root, and it is better to propagate by seed. There is a lovely pink va-
riety. Still another variety, A. maratima also called A. vulgaris is in-
creased rapidly by division, and as the seed comes up quite regularly
it is often used by either method as an edging instead of Box. See
Armeria, Pink, Per. June.

ULMARIA FILIPENDULA, see Dropwort.

VALERIAN. Spurred, JUPITER'S BEARD (Centranthus albus). 2 ft.

184 Classified Lists

A pleasing herb with smooth leaves and several stalks from the root
bearing small terminal clusters of white, pink and coral red flowers
resembling Honeysuckle. Thrives in any good soil; propagated by seed
or by careful division of the root. It does not spread.

JULY
WHITE SHRUBS

BOY LOVE, OLD MAN or SOUTHERNWOOD (Artemesia Abrotanum).
3-5 ft. A woody stemmed shrubby plant with finely divided, grayish
aromatic foliage. Seldom flowers, but when it does the bloom is in
whitish-yellow panicles. Cultivated for its aromatic perfume. Easily
propagated by cuttings; any good soil.

DOGWOOD. Panicled (Cornus paniculatd). 5-7 ft. A late variety
that takes a bushy form, with whitish leaves and loose clusters of white
involucres in July and August; bark ash-colored; berries white. See
Dogwood, White Shrubs, June.

ELDERBERRY (Sambucus Canadensis). 4-6 ft. A vigorous shrub
with woody stems only toward the base; bears large flat showy heads oi
small white flowers followed by small purplish fruit. Give it rich soi!
and it soon makes a large clump.

SWEET GALE (Myrica gale). 3-4 ft. Cut-leaved fragrant foliage
and greenish-brown flowers. Give a moist sandy loam.

SWEET PEPPER BUSH, WHITE ALDER (Clethra aini folia). A native
shrub, from 3-6 ft., cultivated for its deliciously fragrant white flowers.
Does best in moist rich soil and partial shade.

JULY

WHITE PERENNIALS

ADAM'S NEEDLE, BEAR GRASS, SILK GRASS, YUCCA (Yucca fila-
mentosa). 1-2 ft. A hardy variety of a subtropical plant with sword-
shaped leaves edged with thread-like filaments, and bears a branching
terminal cluster of cream white bell-shaped flowers. Prefers a deep
sandy soil, and is propagated by suckers. It is well to give it protection
in winter. Excellent against a background of shrubbery.

BABY'S BREATH. This name is applied to several plants, one Gyp-

White Flowers 185

sophila paniculata 2-3 ft. A dense spreading bush with tiny white
flowers in light open panicles and delicate foliage; resists drought and
grows in fairly dry soil. Propagated by seed, division and cuttings.
See also Bedstraw, White. White Per., July.

BEDSTRAW. White (Galium Mollugo). 3-5 ft. This plant is er-
roneously called Gypsophila for which it is frequently mistaken, and
also Baby's Breath. It makes a bushy growth, increasing rapidly at
the root, has a square stem, elliptical leaves arranged in whorls of 6-8
and open clusters of tiny white flowers faintly scented. It does best by
frequent division; also propagated by seed and cuttings. Give a deep
rich moist soil and full sun.

BELLFLOWER. Campanula. This genus represents some of our most
valuable and showy plants. While most of them are blue, there are
many white varieties such as C. turbinata alba, 6 in. i ft.; C. persici-
folia alba, 1-3 ft. ; C. Mariesi grandiflora and C. Mariesi compacta nana.
These have large showy flowers. There is also another, C. rapuncu-
loides, a showy blue variety that spreads badly, has smaller nodding
flowers, with many stalks springing from the root, drooping bell-shaped
flowers borne in the axils of the upper leaves; if cut will bloom through
the season. All can be propagated easily by seed or division of the root,
and do well in any good soil. For blue varieties see Bellflower, Blue
Per., June.

BOCCONIA, JAPANESE PLUME POPPY (B. cordata). 4-6 ft. A hand-
some perennial herb with ornamental fig-leaved foliage and terminal
clusters of yellowish-white flowers. It is excellent to plant in an angle
or corner where it is sheltered from the north and east winds. Cutting
off the suckers in summer will benefit the old plant and increase the
stock. Give a rich soil. Handsome when massed against shrubbery.

CANTERBURY BELL (Campanula medium). 3 ft. A biennial form
of Campanula, bearing a quantity of bell-shaped flowers two or three
inches long; very desirable. If the seed-vessels are picked off as they
form, it will bloom almost the whole season. It is self-sowing and the
strongest plants are thus obtained, transplanting them in the autumn
for the following year.

CLEMATIS (C. Jackmanni, var. Henryi). A climbing perennial of great
beauty. It dies to the ground every autumn but makes a heavy growth
each spring; flowers from 2-4 in. across. Does well in any rich light
soil and sunny exposure. Propagated by seeds and cuttings. For further
cultural directions, see page 131.

1 86 Classified Lists

CLEMATIS, WILD, see Traveler's Joy.

CHRYSANTHEMUM MAXIMUM. 3 ft. This plant makes a magnificent
bushy growth, bearing flowers about three times as large as the common
white daisy. It blooms for many weeks if the seed-vessels are not al-
lowed to form. Grows in any good soil in full sun. Propagated easily
from self-sown seed or division of the root.

CHRYSANTHEMUM LATIFOLIUM. 3 ft. A variety coming perhaps two
weeks later than C. maximum; is, if anything, a better plant with
broader leaves, larger flowers and more prolonged bloom.

I had still another variety that had a sort of frilled row of petals
notched at the outer edge that was more desirable than either of the
other two, and seemed to be a sort of C. latijolium, or derived from a
stray seed of the Shasta daisy.

DAISY. Great Oxeye (Chrysanthemum uliginosum). 2-4 ft. A
graceful variety with slender bending stalks, bearing loose terminal
clusters of white flowers, leaves sharply toothed, sessile. Propagate by
seeds and division.

EUPHORBIA, FLOWERING SPURGE (E. corottatd). z\ ft. A very sat-
isfactory plant bearing a broad open cyme of snow-white leafy append-
ages that are taken for flower petals, borne on long branching stems.
Desirable for cutting or graceful addition to a red or pink bed. Give a
rich loam and partial shade. Propagated by division of strong plants,
but does best when well established.

FEVERFEW, PELLITORY (Chrysanthemum parthenium fl. pi.). 2 ft. A
plant having a strong aromatic smell, making a bushy growth and
bearing numerous clusters of white rayed flowers with yellowish cen-
ters. This, like all other white rayed flowers, adds variety and grace to
beds of a single color. Propagated by self-sown seed. While hardy
through severe winters, the young growth is tender under late spring
frosts. Does well in any good soil and any location. If pruned low
makes a good edging.

FOXGLOVE. Woolly (Digitalis lantana}. 2 ft. A biennial form of
Foxglove of no great beauty; rather coarse leafy plant with curious
brownish-white spotted flowers an inch long on terminal racemes. Not
especially desirable. Moist light soil, partial shade. Propagate by seed
and division.

FRAXINELLA, GAS PLANT (Dictamnus fraxinella, var. albus). 2 ft. An
aromatic herb bearing showy flowers in long terminal racemes. When
bruised has a balsam smell or like lemon peel; emits a volatile fragrance

CHRYSANTHEMUM MAXIMUM

[P. 186]

EARLY PINK COSMOS STILL BLOOMING IN OCTOBER [P. 267]

White Flowers 187

on hot close nights, which is so strong that it can be lighted with a match;
hence its name. Does best in a dry situation, but not under trees. Do
not crowd or disturb ; give a rich heavy soil. Propagate by division of the
root and by seeds sown as soon as ripe. Also a rose variety.

GALIUM MOLLUGO, see Bedstraw, White.

GAURA, BUTTERFLY FLOWER (G. Lindheimeri). 2-4 ft. While this
plant is usually offered as an annual, I have found it a hardy perennial
when protected with the usual mulch. It has but few leaves obscurely
spotted like smartweed, and bears a continued succession of handsome
white orchid-like flowers on tall branched mahogany-colored stems,
which wave gracefully above other plants like hovering butterflies. As
an annual it grows 2 ft. high; but as a perennial it is from 3-5 ft. Does
well in rich dry soil and full sun. Propagated by seed. I especially
recommend this flower which is too little known.

GYPSOPHILA PANICULATA, see Baby's Breath; also Galium Mottugo.

GYPSOPHILA STEVENI, also known as G. glauca. 2 ft. A variety
with long recurved opposite leaves, the whole plant covered with a gray
bloom; tiny gray-white flowers on fine wire-like stems, petals reflexed,
altogether presenting a curious metallic appearance. Very useful to
support more delicate cut flowers. Propagated by seed and by division
of the root that spreads slightly by deep suckers. Has a rather prostrate
habit, and needs a support. See Baby's Breath, G. paniculata; also an
annual variety of delicate beauty; see White An. for June.

IRIS. Japanese (/. l&vigata, var. Moonlight. Also known as 7.
K&mpferi). 2 ft. The Japanese Iris blooms after the other varieties
are gone and surpasses them in beauty, size and variety of coloring and
marking; the flowers of some of the garden varieties measure from
o-io in. across; are broad and flat; the leaves are more delicate in form
than the usual Iris, and can be used more decoratively. It does best in
rich moist but not wet, soil, and partly shaded situation. As it takes
several years to get well established it should be allowed to remain when
once planted. It increases by running rootstocks extending in a circle,
making handsome clumps. It can be also raised from seed (thus new
varieties are obtained) but it takes a whole year for the seed to germinate,
and five or six years before strong blooming plants are developed.
Moonlight is a beautiful white variety with yellow center. For other
Var. see Yel. Blue and Pink Per.

LARKSPUR. White (Delphinium grandiftorum, var. album). 3 ft.
This Larkspur is one of the loveliest of all hardy perennials, but because

1 88 Classified Lists

seedlings often winter-kill further south is rarely offered in either seed
catalogues or by nurserymen and then at a fancy price. It forms a
good-sized clump, with finely divided leaves, and many spikes of
glistening white flowers with green spot on the under side of each petal
and black stamens. It is propagated easily from seed and is self-sowing
if the soil is kept mellow. I raise most of mine from self-sown plants
that spring up in my walks; strong roots may also be divided. While
it is perfectly hardy it is well to give a mulch of coarse grass in winter.
It grows best in deep rich moist soil, but also thrives in dry sunny situa-
tions if well watered in a dry season. If the flower-stalks are cut to the
ground after blooming, new growths will spring up a second and even
third time. It needs staking because of its brittle growth. All Lark-
spurs should be planted with the crown a little above the soil, as they
are inclined to rot. Coal ashes over the crowns are said to prevent slugs.
For other varieties see Blue, Yel. and Red Per.

LYCHNIS. White, White Ragged Robin (L. vespertina, ft. />/.). 2 ft.
A double day-blooming variety, which is a perennial, also a single
biennial variety known as Evening-blooming L. Both are fragrant,
and bloom in loose terminal panicles. Thrive in any good soil and are
propagated by seed.

MADONNA LILY (Lilium candidum). 2-3 ft. One of the most beauti-
ful of fragrant white lilies, its name derived from the fact that painters
represent the Virgin carrying these lilies. When well established leave
it alone, but if it must be transplanted, do it in August after the flower
stems die down. It should have a stiff rich loam, no manure next the
bulb and full sun; it fails if given a moist shaded location. Propagated
by offsets.

MALLOW. Musk (Malva moschata). 1-2 ft. A showy bushy plant
with large white or pink flowers 2 in. across, borne in clusters; leaves
heart-shaped below, the upper ones in 5 -cleft divisions. Blooms all
summer. Give any good soil, sun and moisture, if the season is dry,
as drought shortens the bloom. The pink variety is particularly beauti-
ful. Both have a faint musky fragrance. Propagate by seed and
division. See Pink Per., July.

MILLA MULTIFLORA, see Star Flower.

MONKSHOOD (Aconitum Nepallus, var. albus). 3 ft. The Monks-
hood in its various colors of white, blue and yellow is one of our stateliest
plants with its handsome foliage, much divided, and many tall loose
spikes of hood-shaped flowers. If left undisturbed makes a fine clump;

White Flowers 189

does well in full sun or under the shade of trees. Propagated by seed
or division of the root; but great care should be exercised, for the root
is deadly poison and dangerous to cattle if left about. Do not plant it
in a kitchen garden as it much resembles horseradish roots.

OBEDIENT PLANT (Physostegia Virginiana, var. alba). 3-4 ft.
Against a green background this plant makes a most beautiful effect
with its clustered white blooms borne on tall branching stems. It
spreads from the root and can easily be raised from seed. Mine are in
a location where the roots are well shaded in a moist situation, but the
tops are in full sun. Too much praise cannot be given this plant in
either the white or lilac varieties; see Blue Per., July.

PEA. Perennial (Lathyrus latifolius, var. alba). 4-6 ft. This is
another perennial making a magnificent growth, yet it is but little
known in this country, though much prized in England. A single root
when well established will send up from six to fifteen stems completely
covered with clusters of flowers and buds, larger than the Sweet Pea,
but scentless. It should be left undisturbed; nor is it easy to lift an
established plant, owing to the enormously long roots that go down a
foot or two in the soil. Keep the seed-vessels from forming, give water
if the season is dry and it will bloom until frost; flourishes in any good
soil in any location. If planted at the base of early blooming shrubs
or those with naked stems it will cover the bush with bloom. Propagate
by seed, which is self-sowing or by careful division of the root. Give a
mulch if in an exposed position. There are pink, pink and white, also
red varieties. See Pink and Red Per.

PLATYCODON. Wahlenbergia (P. grandiflorum, var. album). 2 ft.
A low spreading variety of Campanula with showy terminal flowers
rather flat and wheel-shaped; also blue varieties. Divide in spring, give
a rich well-drained loam. For further culture see Campanula.

POTENTILLA (P. alba). 2 ft. A low ornamental plant with grayish -
green leaves and white flowers borne in loose cymes. Increased by
division of seed; thrives in any good soil. Also red and yellow
varieties.

STAR FLOWER (Triteleia laxa, var. alba). Trade name MillamuUi-
flora. 2 ft. A delicately beautiful plant rarely offered, with narrow lily
leaves and loose airy clusters of pure-white star-shaped flowers borne
on tall branching thread-like stems, the flowers numbering from 8-20
on a single stalk. Cover lightly in the winter, give a sheltered position.
Mine has full sun on the plant, but shade on the roots from a southern

Classified Lists

wall. Spreads slowly by offsets. Let remain when once established.
A lovely plant but rare.

SNAPDRAGON (Antirrhinum majus, var. Queen Victoria). 3 ft.
While this plant is frequently grown as an annual, blooming in August
if the seed is sown in April, it is also a hardy perennial, and survives
our severe winter with a little mulch. It bears full racemes of showy-
lipped flowers and is highly ornamental. Seeds are inclined to sport,
also the same plant does not always produce the same color of flowers
a second year. The only way to reproduce a true variety is by cuttings.
Thrives best in a light well-manured soil in full sun. In England it is
grown on tops of walls, but our climate is too dry.

SPURGE. Flowering, see Euphorbia corollata.

THOROUGHWORT, BONESET (Eupatorium perfoliatum). 3 ft. A
stout native plant that bears great flat heads of finely-fringed flowers.
Under cultivation it becomes a handsome plant for shrubbery effects.
Does best in rich moist soil; seeds itself.

TRAVELER'S JOY, VIRGIN'S BOWER, WILD CLEMATIS (Clematis
Virginiand) . 8-25 ft. A most beautiful native vine that does well
under cultivation. Bears quantities of white flowers followed by fluffy
white seed-vessels. Thrives best in partly shaded locations with moist
rich soil. Self-sowing. Do not cut to the ground, as the old stems are
often alive in the spring several feet up from the ground, though they
may look dead.

TRITELEIA LAXA, see Star Flower.

WILD CARROT (Daucus carota). 2 ft. A troublesome weed of the
most delicate beauty, with fern-like foliage, and lacy heads of minute
white flowers, followed by curious seed-vessels that look like a green
bird's nest. Commonly called Queen Anne Lace. If the seed-vessels
are not allowed to scatter, this plant can easily be kept within bounds.
It is a biennial, and self-sowing. Very attractive planted with blue
Larkspur, Rudbeckia, Stokesia, Bergamot, or any showy flowers that
bloom through August.

YUCCA, see Adam's Needle.

White Flowers 191

AUGUST
WHITE SHRUBS

ANGELICA TREE, HERCULES CLUB (Aralia spinosd). 6-20 ft. A
low shrub or tree with a stout trunk covered with sharp prickles. A
secondary growth springs up about the stem making a group of smaller
ones on every side. These can be removed if a tree form is desired.
When young, in autumn, the large stems, having served as branches,
fall off as well as the leaves, and it appears to be more dead than alive.
In spring it quickly reclothes itself, sending out compound leaves two
feet long and half as broad. These form a cluster at the top of stem that
are two feet long in a twice or thrice pinnate arrangement. The flowers
are white in compound panicles and these great heads with their clusters
of flowers and huge leaves look like a tropical palm in blossom. Give
a shaded and sheltered position, as the top is too heavy to stand high
winds. A rapid grower, especially in a moist situation.

DIMORPHANTHUS MANDSCHURicus, a hardy variety of Aralia
Chinensis. 3-5 ft. A handsome shrub with horizontal branches,
leaves spiny, finely divided, arranged tri-pinnately, giving a fine tropical
foliage effect. Flowers white, in many-stemmed broad terminal clusters.
Hardy if given a dry porous soil and sunny, sheltered spot.

HYDRANGEA (H. paniculata, var. grandiflora), 4-6 ft. This is one
of the showiest of August flowers, and perfectly hardy. It bears great
elongated clusters of white blossoms, the fewer the clusters allowed, the
larger the size. It needs a deep rich soil and plenty of water. Although
pruning may also be done early in the spring, it is advisable to cut
almost to the ground in late autumn, then new shoots arise in con-
siderable numbers, and each will bear a cluster during the season;
otherwise the old wood grows tall and becomes bare. This variety does
not turn pink and blue as does H. hortensis, which is a tender greenhouse
variety. The color of the latter is very capricious, being secured in
many ways, yet none is to be depended upon always. Alum water,
sheep's dung, different soils, common salt, ancl steel filings at times
produce the much desired blue tinge, yet not invariably successful.
Propagated by division of root and cuttings taken in August or spring
from the tops of the strongest shoots not bearing flowers.

SPIREA SORBIFOLIA, known also as Sorbaria sorbifolia. 3-6 ft. Large
white flowers in panicles. It may freeze to the ground, but the new

1 92 Classified Lists

spring growth is more vigorous in foliage and bloom than when
produced on the old wood of the previous year. Plant with Blue
Spirea.

AUGUST
WHITE PERENNIALS

CANNA (C. Ehemanni, var. Alsace). While the Canna is not a hardy
perennial, the root may be saved from year to year by storing over
winter in boxes or pots of earth. It is useful in securing subtropical
effects in a garden, but I do not grow it. Propagated by division of the
root, if care is taken that each portion has a root bud attached. Divide
in spring; place pieces in 4-in. pots and set out in late May or June.
It can also be raised from seed, but as its roots when young are brittle,
the seed should be sown in single pots so as not to disturb the roots.
Give a rich deep soil, a sheltered position with sun and plenty of water.
Canna needs coddling to bring it to perfection, and for this reason has
no place in a hardy garden.

FUNKIA, JAPAN DAY LILY (F. subcordata). 2 ft. An ornamental
tuberous-rooted lily making a large dump, bearing many stalks with
long white funnel-shaped fragrant flowers. Propagate by cutting roots
through with a sharp spade in early spring. None but strong roots
should be divided; it takes a long time to get established. Give partial
shade, deep rich soil and moisture.

GENTIAN. White (Gentiana alba). 2 ft. A native perennial variety
that can be naturalized in low wet places or grown in a damp corner
of the garden. It bears terminal clusters of yellowish-white flowers.
Propagated by division of root, or seed sown as soon as ripe. Rich wet
soil is best for it.

GLADIOLUS (G. Childsii, var. albus). 3 ft. The Gladiolus is not
hardy, yet it can be cultivated with so little trouble and is so gorgeous
a plant that no garden should be without a few of some color. Leaves
are erect and sword-shaped, from which spring stalks bearing from
6-20 lily-shaped flowers often several inches across. It is propagated
by offsets or seed. Prepare the bed in the late autumn, dressing it
deeply with well-rotted cow manure; apply none in a fresh state when
planting. Plant at intervals from May ist for six weeks to secure a
succession of bloom. Excellent when set among shrubbery or in rose-

White Flowers 193

beds. Set bulbs 3-4 in. deep, in full sun, and stake before flowering.
It needs mulch about the roots if the season is dry, and plentiful water-
ing. After flowering, cut off the seed-vessels, and lift when the tops are
withered, after frosts come. Dry in a cool shed out of the sun and store
in a dry, warm place through the winter. For other var. see Yel., Pink
and Red Per.

HIBISCUS, MARSH MALLOW (H. moscheutus, var. Crimson Eye).
4-6 ft. A tall plant bearing white flowers often 4-6 in. across, with a
center of rich deep red. It does best in a rich moist soil. Propagated
by seed and division of the root. A new variety has been made by
hybridizing which claims to be a great improvement on the usual type.
Also pink var.; see Pink Per., August.

HOLLYHOCK (Althea rosea, var. alba). 5-8 ft. One of our finest
hardy plants, a biennial in some places, with me a perennial. It forms
a thick clump of large leaves from which rise stout stalks bearing
enormous wheel-shaped flowers of many colors. The erect growth
makes a good background for lower bushy perennials, or they can be
grown in broad rows without other plants, or as the foreground of a
high hedge or shrubbery. Seeds should be sown in early spring and the
young plants removed to a permanent position in August or September.
I allow mine to seed themselves, and thus obtain strong plants, each
year finding enough to reset in early spring, where they get well estab-
lished by another season. Top-dress with manure when about to
flower; give plenty of water and full sun. If plants are weak, allow only
one stalk to a plant and stake early. If in a locality where they winter-
kill, cut back to within 6 in. after flowering, lift the plants and winter
in a cold frame. Some recommend a mulch a foot deep of coal ashes
as a winter protection. Of late, hollyhocks have been affected with the
rust, an orange-colored fungus growth that appears on the lower leaves
first, and spreads upward, in time destroying the entire foliage, and
injuring the bloom. If discovered early, we are advised to spray with
a weak solution of permanganate of potassium; if advanced, spray
with a weak solution of Bordeaux mixture, neither of which helped my
plants. Try my special remedy, page 130. Remove all infected leaves
and burn them carefully, and change the bed; or one can save the seed
and let hollyhocks go for a year or two, and try afresh. It is said that
the single varieties are less affected than the double ones. Give a deep
rich soil, underdrained with stones if possible. May be also propagated
by division of strong roots.

194 Classified Lists

IMMORTELLE or PEARLY EVERLASTING (Anaphalis margaritacea).
2 ft. A common weed with slender leaves that are cottony on both
sides, making a soft gray-green effect. Flowers retain the pearly white
scales of their involucre, and grow in large branching terminal clusters.
Under cultivation this plant is very attractive, especially as a border to
a dry bed where nothing else will grow; try it. If the top is pinched off
when the plant is only a few inches high, it will increase the bloom.
Propagated by suckers.

LILY. Auratum or Golden-banded (Lilium auratum). 3-4 ft. The
most splendid and heavy-scented of all white lilies, bearing flowers
often 8 in. across with reflexed petals spotted with maroon or carmine,
a yellow stripe down the center, and conspicuous maroon anthers. This
lily is very capricious, and seldom finds a favorable home. Give a deep
rich well-drained soil, plenty of moisture; some say full sun, others
partial shade. Under all these conditions it frequently decreases in
vigor until it bears but a few small blooms. It is said that this decline
is due to the presence of a small white mite that infests the scales, and
flourishes more vigorously in American gardens than in its native
habitat. The main point is to keep the plant strong and healthy. Some
advise removing every year or two, and propagation is generally secured
by buying freshly-imported bulbs. In setting them out in late autumn,
it is well to surround each bulb with a little sand to prevent rotting;
plant from 5-6 in. deep. Never allow any manure directly at the root
of this or any other lily. This lily, if freshly imported, usually arrives
too late for fall planting unless the ground is prepared in advance
and covered deeply with mulch to prevent freezing. It may then
be uncovered and the lilies set and well mulched for the winter.
Otherwise, set the bulbs in early spring as soon as the ground is
ready.

LILY. Plantain, see Funkia.

LILY (Lilium speciosum album). 3 ft. This is the most delightful
of all lilies for its waxy texture, delicate fragrance and beautiful form
which is similar to the Lilium auratum, but smaller. It is pure white
with purplish spots on the reflexed petals, and from 3-10 flowers ap-
pear on a stalk. Its requirements are similar to those of L. auratum.
It needs partial shade, but not under overhanging trees. Of late it has
been subject to a blight, which causes it to disappear. Plant in autumn.
It blooms until late frosts.

MALLOW. Swamp, see Hibiscus.

White Flowers 195

MOUNTAIN FLEECE, see Polygonum.

MOUNTAIN FEATHER FLEECE (Stenanthium robustum). 5-8 ft. A
very beautiful hardy perennial with long lily leaves and panicles of
feathery, drooping white flowers often 2-3 ft. long. As the flowers
ripen they turn to shades of pink and purple. Requires a deep, rich,
moist soil; propagate by seeds or offsets.

PHLOX. Perennial (Phlox paniculata, var. F. G. Von Lassburg).
4 ft. Though there are many white varieties, this is said to be the best
white Phlox under cultivation, bearing great heads of pure white
flowers. It requires a deep, rich soil, sun and much water during the
flowering season, also a top-dressing of manure during summer. If the
tops are pinched off when plants are about a foot high, they will make
a lower more bushy growth, and the flowers will be more numerous,
though smaller. They will also be a little later in blooming. By pinch-
ing off only a portion of the plants, or the outside stalks, it will retard
the bloom of certain ones and thus prolong the season of bloom. Propa-
gated by seed or division of the root in spring or autumn. The latter
method is the surest way to perpetuate any given strain. It can also be
increased by cutting a strong root in pieces and treating it as you would
seeds; also cuttings taken from roots of old plants grow easily, and
cuttings from shoots that will not bloom that season are used. Seed,
if sown early in heat, then hardened and planted out in May, will bloom
the first season; by this latter method new varieties are secured, as they
cross easily. White Phlox is particularly beautiful planted with Golden
Glow, Helianthus or Stokesia Cartesia. Also many shades of pink, red,
lilac and blue; see other lists.

POLYGONUM. Mountain Fleece (P. amplexicaule) . 2-3 ft. Has a
strong, woody rootstock, flowers creamy-white in one or two racemes
from 2-6 in. long. Give partial shade and any good soil; inclined to
spring up over the garden. Propagate by division; needs a little protec-
tion in severe winters. Blooms very late in August or early September.
Also a deep red variety.

SNAKEROOT. White (Eupdtorium ageratoides) . 3 ft. A native plant
in some portions of the North and Middle 'West, but very desirable
under cultivation. It is of erect, leafy growth with thin green leaves
and large heads of finely-divided white flowers. Give a rich moist soil;
propagated by division of root.

196 Classified Lists

SEPTEMBER

WHITE SHRUBS

ALTHEA, Shrubby. ROSE OF SHARON. 6-12 ft. Sometimes seen in
white, but pink and purple and red are more common colors. See
Rose Mallow, Pink Shrubs, Sept.

PAGODA TREE or JAPANESE SOPHORA (5. Japonica). 10-20 ft. A
tree with graceful bluish-green compound foliage, long terminal clusters
of creamy-white flowers resembling the Acacia. Very graceful tree.
Give a deep rich soil in a sunny sheltered position. It is not hardy far
north.

POLYGONUM MULTIFLORUM. A hardy vine with slender, woody,
reddish stems in the form of numerous branches from the root, bearing
loose clusters of fragrant white flowers. Give a rich loam and full sun,
and mulch through a dry season. Root tuberous; protect in winter.

SEPTEMBER

/

WHITE PERENNIALS

ANEMONE. Japanese (Anemone Japonica, var. Whirlwind). 2-4 ft.
One of the best autumn plants. Large white flowers, yellow centers;
handsome leaves, growing mostly in a clump at the base. Give a rich
moist situation; excellent under trees in partial shade. Leave undis-
turbed and protect in winter. Propagate by seed and division. Also a
pink variety, see Pink Per., Sept.

ASTER. White (A. paniculatus?) . 4-8 ft. A native Aster that makes
an extraordinary growth under cultivation. It gradually increases at
the root, throwing up several erect, leafy stalks, with thin, pointed,
entire leaves. The top is much branched and bears flat clusters of
white-rayed flowers with yellow centers. The blossoming top often
measures more than two feet across. Planted with pink or red Holly-
hocks, this Aster makes a magnificent show. Give a rich moist soil and
full sun. Propagate by seed or division.

ASTER. Perennial. 3-4 ft. I have been unable to identify the name
of this charming variety, as it was sent to me from Massachusetts,
where it is native. It makes a low branching shrubby growth, with

White Flowers 197

tiny awl-shaped leaves, and numerous snow-white flowers, borne all
along the branching stems making compound panicles eighteen inches
across. As it blooms until the heavy frosts and is a mass of feathery
white flowers, it makes a valuable addition to the autumn garden.
Give a rich moist situation. Propagate by division of root, which
spreads extensively.

BOLTONIA (B. asteroides) . 5-7 ft. A plant resembling the Aster,
of erect, hardy growth, bearing numerous heads of white flowers with
yellow centers. Also blue and pink varieties. Propagate by seed and
division of the root. It spreads badly, but can be planted among
shrubbery. It blooms until late frosts. See Blue and Pink Per. Sept.

CLEMATIS. Japanese (C. paniculata). 6-20 ft. The most desirable
of all vines, making a vigorous growth of glossy green foliage, and
covered through the autumn with loose feathery clusters of fragrant
white flowers. Needs a deep rich moist soil, sun and a mulch through
the summer. Propagated by cuttings made of half-ripened wood cut
up at every eye, or by scraping the bark a little and layering the branches.
If well watered, in the course of a year the cuttings will root at the
joint covered, which may then be severed and planted before the growth
begins in the spring. This vine is infested by two species of large
rapacious beetles in the early autumn. See MINE ENEMIES, p. 126-7.
They should be scraped into a can of water with a little kerosene in it.

DAHLIA (D. variabilis). 3-6 ft. Many varieties of Cactus, Pompon
and Peony-flowered in white. While not a hardy plant, Dahlias are a
favorite with many, and are easily grown. They are raised from seed
or by division of the root, which is a cluster of tubers; but care must be
taken that each division has an eye or bud. These are not distributed
over the surface as the eyes of a potato, but are in a ring around the
collar of the root. In a dry state these are not perceptible, and nursery-
men often plant the whole root in a hotbed to start the eyes and then
divide it. The blind tubers (those without eyes), while plump and
healthy looking, will not start a growth. These are sometimes grafted
with a growing shoot of a choice variety, but it is a difficult process.
Dahlias should be started in gentle heat and planted out after all danger
of frost is over. Give a rich sandy loam, much sun and water. After
blooming, or when frost bitten, cut down and, a little later, on a dry
day, lift the tubers and dry in a shady airy place. Turn every day and
shake off the earth from the root. Store in sand or sawdust in a dry
cellar.

198 Classified Lists

JUNE

WHITE ANNUALS

ALYSSUM. Sweet (4. maritimum, var. Benthami). i ft. One of the
earliest of annuals, blooming the entire season; is covered with spikes
of small white fragrant flowers, and is much used as an edging. Thrives
best in sandy or gravelly soil; is self -so wing and transplants easily.
Cutting back the bloom prolongs the flowering season.

CALLANDRINIA (C. Menziesii). 6 in. A low border plant resembling
Portulaca; flowers i in. across, opening only in the sunshine. Sow
seed where the plants are to remain, for they are difficult to transplant.
Give full sun, and a light sandy soil. Also red and yellow varieties.
June and September.

CANDYTUFT (Iberis umbettata, var. odorata). i ft. A self -sowing
annual, bearing long spikes of pure-white fragrant flowers. /., var.
Empress, has a more branching habit, like a candelabrum, with still
longer spikes. It thrives in any soil and bears transplanting well.
June to October.

CYNOGLOSSUM, NAVELWORT (Omphaloides linifolia). 6-12 in. A
delicate plant with loose racemes of white flowers resembling Forget-me-
not. By alternating it with Forget-me-not as a border plant, the bloom
of the latter may be repeated, as Cynoglossum blooms from June to
August. Give any good soil and sun; self-sowing.

ESCHSCHOLTZIA, CALIFORNIA POPPY (E. Calif ornica, var. alba ft. pi.).
i ft. A white variety of this showy plant; has finely-divided leaves
and large flowers tinged with pink borne on long stems. Sow the
seeds as soon as ripe, else the plants may not flower if sown in the
spring.

GYPSOPHILA ELEGANS. i ft. A low plant bearing little cup-shaped
flowers on delicately branching stems; is valuable as a dressing to other
cut flowers; self -sowing and bears transplanting well. If seed-vessels
are cut off it will bloom again in the autumn. Grows in any good soil
or any location. June to October.

NASTURTIUM. Dwarf (Tropceolum minus, var. Pearl), i ft. The
easiest of all annuals to cultivate, and the one most commonly grown
by amateurs. It thrives best in common soil, for if too rich it is inclined
to run to leaf. However, if one wants a solid mass of bloom, fertilize

White Flowers 199

heavily and keep the leaves picked back and the result is amazing in the
size and quantity of bloom. Do not let seed-vessels form. For other
varieties see Red and Yellow An., June. Slightly self -so wing, June to
October.

NEMOPHILA (N. maculata). i ft. A low prostrate plant bearing
white wheel-shaped flowers with a violet patch on each petal. Good
as an edging plant. Does best in moist soil and partial shade. Self-
sowing, June to August. See Blue An., June.

POPPY. California, see Eschscholtzia.

POPPY. Shirley (Papaver Rhceas, var. Shirley). 3 ft. If the seed is
fall-sown, the Shirley Poppy blooms in June; if sown as soon as the
ground is mellow in the spring, it does not bloom until July. By ob-
serving this and by planting a second or third time in the Spring one
can have a long succession of these lovely flowers, which range through
every tone of pure white, white with pale pink margins, shell pink, rose
pink, scarlet and deep red. They last but a day owing to the rough
way the bees wallow among the stamens; but if cut very early in the
morning, they will last three days in the house. Of all the flowers in
the garden none is more satisfactory than the Poppy, and of all Poppies
the Shirley is the finest. I have had single plants that bore from 20 to
30 blooms a day for ten weeks. They are difficult to transplant, though
I have done it successfully by watering the plant well, taking up some
earth about the roots, and making a deep cut hole with a small pointing
trowel, then dropping in the root full length. Cover with a Neponset
pot for three or four days, removing the pot at night, keeping the plant
well watered. Each plant should have at least four to six inches of
ground to itself, which is enough if the coarse lower leaves are kept
picked off. Save only the first perfect seed-vessel, and cut off all others
as they form. Self-sown seeds make the strongest as well as earliest
plants. Give full sun and any good soil.

SCHIZAPETALON (S. Walkeri). 9 in. A singular plant with almond-
scented white flowers with cut petals, borne in terminal leafy racemes.
Transplant very carefully so as not to injure the long tap root; if
possible sow where it is to remain. Give a sandy loam. June to
September.

SWEET SULTAN (Centaurea moschata, var. alba). i£ ft. A plant al-
lied to Bachelor's Button, bearing sweet-scented white fringed flowers
on long stems; grows in any soil. June to September. Also yellow and
blue varieties.

200 Classified Lists

JULY

WHITE ANNUALS

ABRONIA, SAND VERBENA (A fragrans). 6 in. A low prostrate
border plant, with large flat heads of fragrant flowers resembling the
Verbena, opening at sunset. Give a dry sandy soil in warm situation.
Remove the outside papery husk from the seed when planting, else it
will not germinate properly. June to August.

AGERATUM, PAINTER'S BRUSH (A Mexicanum, var. album). Dwarf
and tall, 6 in. 2 ft. A self-sowing branching plant bearing many small
clusters of close-fringed flowers. A very free bloomer; does well in any
soil or situation. Also blue and pink varieties. July to October.

AGROSTEMMA, ROSE OF HEAVEN (A coeli-rosa). A species of Lychnis,
but this generic name, Agrostemma, is the one now most used). i£ ft.
In pink and white this plant makes a beautiful showing with its nu-
merous flowers borne on long stems. It is a hardy annual and flourishes
in any good soil. July to October.

ARCTOTIS, AFRICAN DAISY (A grandis). 2\ ft. A tall rather sprawl-
ing plant with very handsome rayed flowers having petals that are
white above, lilac beneath, and a golden circle about a steel blue center.
It has glaucus grayish leaves. It should be planted apart, as it over-
shadows smaller plants because of its branching habit. Give it a rich
loam in warm sunny location. It has intermittent ways of closing up
its petals. July to October.

ARGEMONE, PRICKLY POPPY, MEXICAN POPPY (A Mexicana, var.
alba flora). 2 ft. An ornamental plant with large white flowers like a
Poppy. The plant spreads widely and needs a good deal of room; has
glaucus leaves and is very showy. July to September.

ASTER. China (Callistephus Chinensis — many horticultural varie-
ties). 1-4 ft. This indispensable plant has been so developed that it
does not resemble the old China Aster of our grandmother's day. There
is scarcely any choice in the many varieties offered. Sow the seed as
soon as the ground is warm, and transplant, giving a space of from
4-8 in. to each plant. They do best in a light rich soil with plenty of
sun and water; but as the roots grow near the surface, they must be
mulched if the weather is dry. The Aster has two serious pests; one,
the aphis, attacks the root, and wood ashes are recommended as a rem-
edy; the other is a jet black beetle about f of an inch long that will strip

ARCTOTIS, SOUTH AFRICAN DAISY (Arctotis grandis) [P. aoo]

SWEET SCABIOUS AND DOG FENNEL [P. 207]

White Flowers 201

the petals to the center in a single night. Hand picking in the morning
when the beetles are sluggish, and dropping them into a mixture of
water and kerosene is the only sure way of getting rid of them. Look
for this beetle also on the Michaelmas Daisy. As the Aster transplants
easily, it is well to have a small bed of young plants to fill in any bare
spaces made by cutting down early perennials. It comes in every color
except yellow. July to October.

BALSAM (Impatiens Balsamina, var. Perfection). i-i£ ft. A plant
of leafy, bushy growth with many showy short-stemmed flowers. Its
chief value is in furnishing amusement to children who love to snap
the seed-vessels, which burst with a touch when ripe; hence its common
name, Touch-me-not. Give plenty of room, sun and moisture. Care-
ful growers never use seed until three years old. Other varieties in pink,
red and purple. July to September.

CATCHFLY, SWEET-WILLIAM (Silene Armeria). i ft. The flowers
resembling a Pink are borne in flat-topped clusters and open only in the
sunshine. Give any good soil and full sun. Also a bright pink variety.
July to September.

CENTRANTHUS, var. alba (?). i ft. A low branching plant with
smooth glossy leaves and numerous terminal clusters of slender tubular
fragrant white flowers; very hardy; blooming until heavy frosts. Give
a moist loam and sun. Is self -sowing.

CLARKIA (C. puchella). i ft. A graceful plant bearing several curv-
ing racemes of deeply lobed flowers that remain in bloom a long time.
It is slightly self-sowing and does well in a moist, partly shaded loca-
tion. Also a lilac variety. July to October.

CLEOME, SPIDER PLANT (C. pungens). 2 ft. A curious plant bearing
large heads of white flowers with conspicuous orange stamens on long
filaments, which give it its name, Spider Plant. It has a strong pun-
gent unpleasant odor. It requires a rich light soil and full sun; self-
sowing. July to October. Also a pink variety.

CORN-FLOWER, BACHELOR'S BUTTON (Centaurea Cyanus, var. Mar-
garita). 2 ft. A very beautiful variety of this common favorite, with
large sweet-scented fringed flowers; thrives in any good soil and blooms
for two months if the seed-vessels are picked off as they form. Also
pink, lilac and deep blue varieties.

COSMOS, EARLY (C. bipinnatus, var. Early Hybrid). 3 ft. Unless
one lives in a southern latitude, it is well to depend upon this early
variety, which begins to bloom when only a few inches high and con-

202 Classified Lists

tinues until frost, if the seed-vessels are picked off as they form. The
Anemone-shaped flowers are not so large nor the foliage so handsome
as the tall varieties, but the latter are so frequently cut off by early
frosts while still in bud that they are hardly worth trying except as a
handsome feathery green background to other plants. Does well in
moist rich soil and full sun; is self -sowing to a limited degree. Also a
pure pink and a magenta red variety. July to October.

DATURA (D. arborea, known also as D. Burgmansid). 3 ft. A tender
perennial grown as an annual if started early in gentle heat. Has a
coarse shrubby foliage with large trumpet-shaped fragrant white flow-
ers from 6-12 inches long. If housed through the winter it will make
a new growth the following spring and will throw out great clusters of
flowers as early as July. There are several other varieties to be treated
as annuals, but not so handsome. Give a rich moist soil, and a warm
sunny situation.

DOG-FENNEL, MAYWEED (Anthemis Cotula). 2 ft. This common
weed is not native to my region, but under cultivation it makes an
enormous growth and its finely divided leaves and numerous white
rayed blossoms with golden centers are very effective among pink or red
flowers. As a cut flower it is lovely with corn-flower and ferns. It is
strongly scented, very branching and must not be allowed to seed itself
too freely. July to October.

EUCHARIDIUM (E. concinnum, var. album), i ft. A low branching
plant closely resembling Clarkia puchella, requiring the same culture.

ERiTRicrauM NOTHOFULVUM. 6 in. A dainty sweet-scented hardy
annual resembling the Forget-me-not. It requires a rich moist soil and
partial shade. July to September.

EVENING PRIMROSE ((Enothera acaulis). 6 in. A low annual form
of Primrose with large silvery white flowers. It thrives in any good
soil and is useful as a border plant.

GAURA, BUTTERFLY FLOWER (G. Lindheimeri). 2-4 ft. As an an-
nual the Gaura grows from 1-2 ft. high; as a perennial it reaches 4 ft.
For description and culture see White Per., July.

GILLYFLOWER, see Stock.

GODETIA, SATIN FLOWER (G. amcena, var. Duchess of Albany). This
species is often referred to (Enothera. 1-2 ft. One of our showiest and
most beautiful annuals, bearing a profusion of large open flowers of
satiny texture in many colors besides white. It makes a bushy growth
if given space and rich soil when it runs to leaves; but in poor soil it

White Flowers 203

produces the most brilliant colors, and is literally covered with bloom
though the plant will be smaller and less vigorous. It transplants easily
and is self -sowing to a degree. July to October.

ICE PLANT (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum) . 4 in. A dwarf
fleshy plant covered with glittering papulae which make it look as if
coated with ice crystals. Give a poor soil made of yellow loam, lime
rubbish, sand and manure. Flowers open only on sunny days. Also
rose-colored varieties. July to October.

LARKSPUR. Branching (Delphinium consolidd). i ft. A branching
form of Larkspur of great beauty. All Larkspurs should have the soil
heavily enriched with manure; it should also be moist, in full sun. Sow
seeds of annual Larkspur in autumn, as they are late in flowering if
sown in spring. Self -sowing; also pink and blue varieties. July to
October.

LARKSPUR. Rocket (Delphinium Ajacis). i ft. Another form of
annual Larkspur with a dense spike of bloom. Also blue and pink
varieties. For culture, see preceding paragraph.

LAVATERA (L. trimestris alba). 3 ft. A tall bushy annual bearing
large open funnel-shaped white flowers, delicately penciled with pink.
It requires rich moist soil and sun. This is not so handsome as the pink
variety, L. trimestris rosea, which is one of our most desirable pink
annuals. July to October.

LUPINE (L. mutabalis, var. Snow Queen). 3 ft. A tall smooth plant
with palmate foliage, and many spikes of large fragrant pea-shaped
flowers. Both the Lupine and Larkspur in annual forms are well worth
growing and are good to fill spaces left after earlier flowers are cut back,
particularly a pink var. (see Pink An., July) which blooms until heavy
frost, but the seed should be sown where the plants are to remain as they
do not transplant well. Give any good soil, full sun and moisture.
July to the middle of October.

MALOPE (M. trifida, cultivated at M. grandiftora). 3 ft. A very
showy annual with open funnel-shaped flowers of beautiful gleaming
texture both in white and pink, borne on slender stems. It begins to
bloom when the plant is but a few inches high and continues blooming
as the plant grows until killed by frost. July to October.

MIGNONETTE (Reseda odorata, var. Parson's White), i ft. A plant
of no beauty, but cultivated for the delicious odor of its greenish-white
flowers. Sow in light sandy soil, as it loses its fragrance if grown in rich
loam. It is better to sow the seed where the plants are to remain, as

204 Classified Lists

they do not transplant well. Two or three successive sowings will give
bloom until frost; also the bloom is prolonged by free cutting. In dry
seasons water thoroughly.

MOONFLOWER (Ipomea Bona-Nox; sold under various names). 15 ft.
A fragrant white variety of Morning- Glory opening at nightfall with
enormous white fragrant flowers that open so rapidly that their un-
folding can be seen. Curious, but of little value because the flowers
are faded by early morning. Give good moist soil.

MORNING-GLORY (Ipomea purpurea, var. alba). 8-12 ft. A lovely
variety of this favorite flower. It needs a rich moist soil and the seed-
vessels should be removed as fast as they are formed. If planted on
the west or north side of a building where the morning sun cannot strike
it until noon or later, the flowers will keep open until the sun reaches
them. July to October.

NASTURTIUM (Tropaolum majus, var. Pearl). 6 ft. A tall running
variety of Nasturtium which is very useful to cover walls, trellises and
banks. For culture see Nasturtium. Dwarf, White An., June.

NICOTIANA (N. alata, known as N. affinis). 3 ft. A somewhat
bushy plant bearing numerous white salver-shaped flowers with long
tubes; deliciously fragrant at night. They open toward sunset and close
through the day unless it is very dull weather. It requires a rich soil,
partial shade, and moisture; and are propagated by seeds or offsets
near the root. It is slightly self-sowing. For red variety, see Red. An.
July to October.

NIGELLA, FENNEL FLOWER, LOVE IN A MIST, RAGGED LADY, JACK
IN THE BUSH, LITTLE MAIDEN IN THE GREEN (N. Damascena, var.
alba), i ft. From the variety of names given this plant, it is evidently
a favorite, with its notched petals fringed about with a feathery green
involucre, succeeded by inflated seed-pods. It is particularly beautiful
in a sky-blue variety. It grows in any good soil and is slightly self-
sowing. For early flowering sow in autumn. July and August.

NYCTERINIA (Zaluzianskia selaginoides, sold as N. capensis). 6 in.
A sweet-scented white flower, purplish- brown underneath, opening at
twilight; not interesting save for its fragrance. July to September.

PANSY (Viola tricolor, many varieties in white as well as other colors),
i ft. Sown in spring, as an annual, the Pansy blooms in July. For
culture see White Per., April.

PETUNIA (P. nyctaginiflora); in hybrid form, P. var. grandiflora,
double and fringed. 2 ft. An old-fashioned favorite in the single

White Flowers 205

form, but scarcely recognizable in the huge ruffled flowers of hybrids
now produced. Of easy culture, thriving in common soil and respond-
ing wonderfully to any kindly attention. Keep seed-vessels from form-
ing, cut back if inclined to grow long and weedy; self -so wing. As a
winter house plant I have seen the single fragrant white variety bearing
forty blooms at a time. July to October. For pink variety see Pink An.,
August.

PHLOX (P. Drummondii, var. grandiflora), also a fringed variety.
2 ft. This species of Phlox in the various colors is of great beauty, and
planted in masses produces gorgeous effects. It thrives best in rich
light soil and partial shade. It is self -sowing to a slight degree. Pinch
back the plant if it grows tall and weedy. July to October.

PINK (Dianthus Heddewigii ft. pi., var. Double while). 18 in. If
sown in spring this variety of Pink blooms late in July; if sown the year
before, it blooms early in June as a biennial. For culture see White
Per., June.

POPPY. Opium (Papaver somniferum in single and fringed varieties).
3-4 ft. A variety with long recurved glaucus leaves much notched,
bearing at most from 4-6 large single blossoms; very beautiful but not
so prolific nor so long in season as the Shirley. For culture see Poppy,
White An., June. See Blue and Pink An., July.

POPPY. Shirley (Papaver Rhceas, var. Shirley in single and semi-
double varieties). 2 ft. If not sown until spring it blooms early in
July. See White An., June.

PORTULACA, ROSE Moss (P. grandiftord). 6 in. A low succulent
plant bearing masses of single or double flowers in white, yellow and
red. Opens in sunshine, and requires full sun, and a rather poor sandy
soil. Do not sow seed until June. July to October.

RHODANTHE (Helipterum Manglesii, var. alba. Known also as R.
maculata, var. alba). 18 in.-2 ft. An annual bearing everlasting flowers,
which should be cut before fully expanded. If treated in the following
manner it attains a marvelous size. Sow seed in April and transplant
into tiny pots the first week of May. Shift to increasingly larger pots
every two weeks, pinching off flower buds until the middle of August,
by which time the plant will have attained a large bushy character,
often four feet in circumference, bearing a thousand blossoms. The
ordinary treatment is to sow the seed in April in rich light soil in a sunny
location. Also a handsome pink variety. June to October. See Pink
An., July.

206 Classified Lists

ScmzANTHUS, FRINGE FLOWER (S. pinnatus, var. albus). 1-2 ft.
A very handsome branching plant bearing quantities of white, pale
lilac and pink-fringed flowers with delicately spotted petals. Be careful
in transplanting, as the roots are tender. Give a sheltered position, or
tie plants to stakes, for they are brittle and easily broken in high winds.
Give a light soil, not too much sun or moisture, as the young plants are
liable to die unless conditions are favorable. It is slightly self -so wing
with me. July to October. See Blue An., July.

SAPONARIA, SOAPWORT (S. calibrica, var. alba), i ft. A white variety
of a dainty little bedding plant that literally covers the ground with its
prostrate branches, bearing flowers that resemble Phlox sublata. Thrives
in any good soil and full sun. Also a pink variety. July to October.
See Pink An.

SCHIZAPETALON (S. Walkeri). g in. An annual bearing sweet-
scented fringed white flowers that are curiously cut. Sow the seed
where plants are to remain, as they have a long tap-root and do not
transplant well. Give a deep rich soil, full sun. July to October.

SNAPDRAGON (Antirrhinum majus and minor, var. Queen of the
North). 1-2 ft. Snapdragon may be treated as an annual sown in
early spring in the open ground when it will bloom late in July until
frost. With protection it is also grown as a perennial. For culture see
White Per., July.

STOCK. TEN- WEEKS, GILLYFLOWER (Matthiola annua, var. Perpetual
Perfection). 1-2 ft. A much prized annual coming into bloom ten
weeks after the seed is sown. The flowers are large, fragrant and borne
on loose spikes in both single and double varieties. It comes in shades
of pink, red, blue, lavender and purple. By sowing seed from February
indoors and later in the open ground one can have Stock in bloom during
the entire season. Give a rich, light soil, plenty of water and sun; is
propagated also by cuttings. The name Gillyflower is a corruption of
July-Flower as it usually blooms in July. See other an. lists, July.

SWEET CLOVER (Melilotus alba}. 3 ft. A biennial cultivated as a
bee plant, with sweet-scented foliage, and white pea-shaped flowers
borne in loose racemes. Also a blue variety.

SWEET-PEA (Lathyrus odoratus, var. Dorothy Eckford). 4-8 ft.
This well-known favorite, bearing loose clusters of deliciously sweet
flowers, must be deeply rooted to endure the heat and drought of
American summers. In sowing seed, dig a trench 6-8 in. deep, fill
two inches with well-rotted manure, cover well with good loam, and

White Flowers 207

plant seeds, covering them about half an inch. As the young shoots
grow, pull in the earth from the sides of the trench until the peas have
been rooted at least four inches deep. During the flowering season give
plenty of water, and remove seed-vessels as fast as they form. For other
varieties see other lists of annuals. July to October.

WHITLAVTA (W. grandiflora, var. alba). More correctly known as
Phacelia Whitlavia. i ft. A low free-blooming annual with clammy,
coarsely-toothed foliage and loose racemes of bell-shaped flowers; also
a purplish-blue variety. Give a good loam and full sun. July to
October. See Blue An., June.

AUGUST

WHITE ANNUALS

ARTEMESIA ANNUA, see Sweet-Fern.

CELOSIA (C. plumosa, var. spicata). 2$ ft. A very beautiful feathery
variety of Cockscomb in which the lower part of the rose-pink spikes
turn a silvery white. In order to increase the size of blooms sow early
and transplant two or three times. Give a light soil and do not crowd,
as it tends to a dwarf size if planted closely. July to October.

LEPTOSIPHON (Gilia androsed). i ft. A low California annual with
narrowly-divided leaves, and open salver-shaped flowers in clustered
heads. It endures cold better than heat, and should not have the hot
sun; good as a border plant. Also yellow and lilac varieties. August
to October.

POPPY. Peony (Pa-paver somniferum fl. pi.}. 4 ft. A double
flowered variety resembling the peony, bearing heads often 5 in.
across, that remain in bloom several days. This is a particularly hand-
some variety though it bears only from 4-8 blooms. It does not trans-
plant well, and it is better to sow the seed thinly and thin out the plants.
Autumn-sown seed make the strongest plants. Give full sun and rich,
light soil. Self-sowing. August. See Blue and Pink An.

SCABIOUS. Sweet (Scabiosa atropurpurea, var/ White Pearl). 2 it. A
very beautiful variety of plant with large, handsome, flat heads of small
flowers borne on long stems. The seed should be planted early. Fra-
grant. Give a rich soil and warm situation. It is also very beautiful
in pure deep red, pale pink and lilac. August to October. See other
An. lists for August.

2o8 Classified Lists

SWEET-FERN (Artemesia annua). 2-4 ft. A tall bushy plant with
finely-divided fragrant leaves and flowers; the latter are like tiny balls
of greenish color. Very pleasant as a dried herb to place among clothes.
Self-sowing.

VERBENA (V. teucroides, var. candissima) . i ft. A low, trailing plant
that can be pegged down and made to cover quite an area with its
fragrant flat heads of white flowers. If pruned it makes a thicker
growth. It transplants easily and the whole species is excellent for
house plants. Further south it is hardy with a little covering. It is
easily propagated by cuttings, but blooms best from seed. Many other
colors, see other An., lists for August. August to October.

ZINNIA (Z. elegans, var. cristata). Curled and crested varieties. 3 ft.
A useful plant in the late autumn when other flowers are gone. Thrives
in any good soil and sunny location. In choice varieties the Zinnia is
effective, and it is only because of its solferino and magenta tones that
it has fallen into disfavor in choice gardens. With selected colors it
makes a fine display when the garden most needs it. August to October.
See An. lists for August.

SEPTEMBER

WHITE ANNUALS

COSMOS (C. bipinnatus, var. Mammoth}. 4-6 ft. A tall variety with
an almost shrubby growth of feathery green foliage, but because of its
late blooming in the north, it is seldom seen in perfection of bloom be-
fore it is killed by frosts. For its foliage alone, as a background to other
plants, it is worth growing. The flowers resemble huge Japanese
Anemones, and are borne in great profusion. I have known this plant
when six feet high to be lifted carefully before the frosts, and placed in
tubs and taken indoors, where it bloomed until Christmas. Give a rich,
moist soil, a warm, sheltered position and moisture. For pink variety
see Pink An., September.

STEVIA (S. serrata). 2 ft. This rather tender perennial is sometimes
grown in the open as an annual, blooming in September until late frosts.
It bears heads of small fragrant white flowers. Give a rich, sandy loam,
propagate by seed and careful division of the root.

VINCA, PERIWINKLE (V. rosea, var. alba), i ft. A low border plant
with handsome, almost evergreen, foliage and salver-shaped tubular

White Flowers 209

flowers. To make it branch nip off the tips of the plant. Very attractive,
but not quite hardy in the north. Give a rich moist soil. To propagate
let the branches root at the joints by covering them with a little earth,
and when rooted divide from the parent plant. Also pink and blue
varieties. See Blue and Pink An., August.

BLUE FLOWERS

APRIL
BLUE SHRUBS— None

APRIL
BLUE PERENNIALS

CROCUS (C. verms, var. Prince Albert}. Blue, var. Sir John Frank-
lin. Purple, var. Grand Lilas, Lilac. For culture, see Crocus, White
Per., April.

HEART'S-EASE, LADY'S DELIGHT (Viola tricolor'). 6 in. Probably
the original of all modern Pansies. A friendly little plant, found bloom-
ing at the edge of melting snowbanks, and continuing in bloom all sum-
mer. While it makes a charming border plant, if newly set, it must be
soon removed, for in rich ground it grows straggly and sows its seeds
too widely for garden purposes. It thrives best in a poor dry gravelly
soil and full sun. April to October.

HYACINTH (Hyacinthus orientalis). Many named varieties in all
tones of clear blue, purple, violet and lilac, i ft. For culture, see Hya-
cinth, White Per., April.

LUNGWORT, BLUEBELLS, VIRGINIAN COWSLIP (Mertensia Virginica).
2 ft. A very lovely plant with many stalks from the root bearing large
yellowish-green leaves, and terminal drooping clusters of blue bell-
shaped flowers. Do not disturb, as it roots very deeply and does not
divide well; but if done, it should be attended to in autumn; it may also
be propagated by seed sown as soon as ripe. It is well to place a stake
by this plant, for it dies away in summer, and is apt to be uprooted when
digging over a bed. Give a rich moist sandy loam in full sun, but shel-
tered position.

PANSY (Viola tricolor, hybrid varieties in blue, purple and violet),
i ft. For culture, see White Per., April.

210

Blue Flowers 211

PASQUE FLOWER (Anemone pulsatilld). 6 in. One of the earliest
spring flowers with finely divided leaves and handsome lilac or violet
blossoms encircled with a fringe of bracts. It makes a tuft, and thrives
best in a warm sheltered situation and dry calcareous soil. May be
left in the ground several years without taking up.

SCILLA, SQUILL or WILD HYACINTH (S. Sibirica). 8 in. Deep sky
blue. This variety of Scilla is one of the rich blue flowers of the garden.
It bears beautiful blossoms f in. long, slightly drooping. It thrives
best in sandy soil and partly shaded situation. Increased by offsets
which should be removed and replanted in autumn when too thick:
otherwise it should be undisturbed. For pink var., see Pink Per., April.

MAY
BLUE SHRUBS

LILAC. Common (Syringa vulgaris). 6-12 ft. The common va-
riety. For culture, see Lilac, White Shrubs, May.

LILAC. Persian (Syringa Persica). Also many budded varieties in
lavender, blue and lilac tones. For culture, see Lilac, White Shrubs,
May.

MAY

BLUE PERENNIALS

ANCHUSA (A Barrelieri). 3-4 ft. A coarse weedy plant bearing
large racemed clusters of deep blue flowers resembling Forget-me-nots.
It has great vitality, and once established it will sow its seeds all over
the garden, besides increasing by suckers. Though beautiful in color
and a free bloomer for many weeks, if cut back, it is only of value in the
background or among shrubbery. Thrives in any soil and sunny lo-
cation. Also an annual variety; see Blue Per. and An., July.

AUBRETIA (.4. deltoides, var. Eyrei). 4 in. A "low branching edging
plant bearing many clusters of violet-purple flowers resembling Verbena.
Propagated by seed or layering the branches, by covering the joints
with earth, when they will root freely; the plant may be divided after
flowering. It grows in any good soil and is good for rock work.

CAMASS. Giant (Camassia cusicki). 3-4 ft. Bears long rather dense

212 Classified Lists

racemes of pale blue flowers numbering 30 to 40 to a stalk. It does
best in a sheltered, partly shaded situation. Needs loam, leaf mold
and sharp sand; also top-dress with manure each year. Let remain
when once established; can be divided in autumn. Propagated by seeds
or offsets removed when in a dormant condition.

COLUMBINE (Aquilegia carulea). 3 ft. Sometimes called the Rocky
Mountain Columbine, violet, blue and white (A. glandulosa). i ft.
Lavender and white.

COLUMBINE (A Olympica). i£ ft. White with delicate lavender
spurs.

COLUMBINE 04. vulgaris). 1-3 ft. Purple and deep shining blue. In
certain shades this last is particularly beautiful, as the color brings out a
gleaming satiny texture. For culture, see Columbine, White Per., May.

FORGET-ME-NOT (Myosotis alpestris, var. Victoria), i ft. A lovely
sky-blue variety with golden yellow eye. Very hardy; self-sowing.
Also pink and white varieties; see Pink and White Per., May.

FORGET-ME-NOT (M. palustris grandiflora). i ft. Dark blue; not
so hardy.

FORGET-ME-NOT (M. palustris, var. semper ftorens) . Bright blue, not
so hardy as M. alpestris, but blooms the first season from seed in July,
and has a longer season of bloom when established as a perennial.
For culture, see Forget-me-not, White Per., May.

GLOBE DAISY (Globularia tricosantha) . $-1 ft. A hardy plant with
globe-shaped light-blue flowers. Leaves become blackish in autumn.
Give a moist rich soil. Propagated by seeds or by cuttings.

HOUSTONTA, BLUETS (H. caruled). 6 in. A delicate little plant na-
tive to some portions of New England, bearing the daintiest of light-
blue flowers with a yellow eye. Generally given as a perennial; Leavitt
calls it a biennial. Requires rich moist soil, and is propagated by seeds.
I transplanted a clump from Washington when in full flower and it
bloomed for two months after.

HONESTY, SATIN FLOWER (Lunaria biennis). 2 ft. A biennial bear-
ing pinkish-purple flowers in terminal racemes. Interesting for its
large silvery flat seed-vessels. Thrives best in sandy soil. Propagated
by seeds.

HYACINTH. Grape (Muscaribotryoides). 6 in. A variety with small
deep-blue globular flowers; very pleasing when combined with Arabis
albida. For culture, see Hyacinth, White Per., May.

IRIS. German (7. Germanica). 2-3 ft. A gorgeous variety in rich

Blue Flowers 213

deep purple and also lavender. This form of Iris extends itself by
running rootstocks on or near the top of the ground, and rots if it is
covered too much or is in too moist a place. Give rich soil, full sun, a
well-drained but moist situation. Propagated by division of the conns;
do not break them too small, else it will take a year or more for them
to get reestablished enough to bloom. Divide early in autumn. Also
white, pink and yellow varieties.

JACOB'S LADDER (Polemonium caruleum). 1-2 ft. A desirable
border plant with beautiful foliage and many terminal clusters of lav-
ender blue flowers. Thrives in rich moist soil. It spreads so widely
from the root that it is well to give most of your stock away each year,
dividing a few strong plants and resetting them as an edging in the au-
tumn.

PHLOX. Creeping (P. sublata atropurpurea) . 6 in. A rosy purple
variety of this charming border plant.

PHLOX (P. sublata, var. G. F. Wilson). A light- blue variety. For
culture, see P. sublata, White Per., May.

PHLOX. Virginia (P. divaricatd) . Sometimes known as Wild
Sweet- William, i ft. A taller light-blue fragrant variety growing more
like Phlox Drummondii. Give rich soil, sun and moisture. Propagated
by seeds and division of strong roots. Blooms about two months.

TULIP (Tulipa, var. Eleanor e). A violet variety with a white edge.

TULIP (T. var. Queen of the Violets'). A rich violet variety; also
another, T. Van der Mer. For culture, see Tulip, White Per., May.

VIOLET. English (Viola odorata, var. Princess of Wales). 4 in.
Usually grown in hothouses for winter use, but can be grown in the
open if given a good soil, partial shade and moisture, though I have
also had strong plants that had sown themselves in a sunny exposed
situation in dry yellow loam. It is self-sowing to a slight degree.

WISTARIA. Chinese (W. Chinensis, var. Purple; sometimes called
W. sinensis). 10-40 ft. A very beautiful but capricious vine with
handsome smooth foliage and great clusters of pea-shaped blossoms
during May and June, and bears in some places a smaller crop during
August and September. It requires a dry sandy soil, yet it also requires
watering during a dry season. It should be left severely alone when
once planted, for it takes from three to eight years to feel enough at
home to bloom. I have a vigorous specimen that has been planted
six years, but shows no sign of flowering. As it branches freely, this
variety may be trained to cover a wall or to follow under the eaves of a

2i4 Classified Lists

house or piazza, and the flower clusters allowed to droop, as is the Jap-
anese custom; also very effective when allowed to climb trees, and run
from one to another. Lovely when used thus over an entrance gateway;
or twined about columns, if still in a young leafy state. Propagated by
scraping a branch at a joint, covering it during the summer with soil,
and separate the following spring. It can also be layered in a tub.
The Wistaria is hard to transplant owing to deep roots and few fibers.

WISTARIA (W. Chinensis multijuga). Often passing under the name
of sinensis, grows still longer clusters which are sometimes 3-4 ft. long.
Not so vigorous of growth in this country as W. Chinensis. For culture,
see preceding paragraph.

JUNE
BLUE SHRUBS— None

JUNE
BLUE PERENNIALS

AMSONIA (.4. Tdbernamontana). 2-3 ft. A plant with smooth al-
ternate leaves resembling the Olive; numerous pale-blue flowers borne
in panicles, followed by soft hairy pods. Propagate by seed, division
or cuttings. Sun, rich soil.

BELLFLOWER, CAMPANULA, many varieties in blue as follows:
C. persicifolia. 1-2$ ft. with open bell-shaped corolla 2 in. long.
C. Carpatica. 6-10 in. high with erect bell-shaped flowers with

corolla i in. long.

C. glomerata. 2 ft. Erect stems, bluish violet funnel-shaped
flowers in dense terminal heads. Give a rich well-drained soil;
propagate by seed and division of root. One of the best of Cam-
panulas; also a white variety.

C. rapunculoides. A vigorous variety with many erect stalks of
deep-blue flowers, coming late in June. For culture, see C.
White Per., June.
C. turbinata. A dwarf variety also with erect flowers. For culture

see Bellflower, White Per., June.

BLUE-EYED GRASS (Sisyrinchium angustifolium). i ft. A pretty
native plant, narrow erect leaves, and deep-blue wheel -shaped flowers;
makes a good clump under cultivation.

Blue Flowers 215

COMMELINA (C. ccdestis). i ft. A half hardy perennial, blooming
the first season from seed in August, bearing deep- blue flowers that
last but a day. It is not very satisfactory, save for its glorious blue
color. The roots are small tubers, and can be kept over winter like
Dahlias and planted out in the spring. Give a rich soil and partial
shade. If in a sheltered position and roots are heavily mulched, they
will stand the winter. I have carried mine over.

GALEGA, GOAT'S RUE (G. officinalis). 3 ft. A blue variety. For de-
scription and culture, see Galega, White Per., June.

HESPERIS, DAME ROCKET (H. matronalis). 3 ft. A purplish-lilac
variety; for culture, see Hesperis, White Per., June.

IRIS. Spanish (7. xiphium). 2 ft. Comes in blue, white and yellow;
later than German Iris. For culture, see I. Spanish, White Per., June.

IRIS. English (7. xiphoides). 2 ft. In a rich reddish purple. For
culture, see I. English, White Per., June.

IRIS. Siberian (7. Siberica). 2 ft. One of the best varieties when
well established; bears light-blue flowers in great profusion. Culture
the same as for other Iris.

KNAPWEED. Mountain (Centaurea nigra, var. montana; sold as
Centaurea montana or Per. Corn-flower). 3 ft. A coarse weedy plant
with large heads, but the ray flowers, though of a rich deep blue are
thin and wizened, which makes the bloom of little value. Grows any-
where and is self-sowing.

LUPINE (Lupinus polyphyllus). 3 ft. A magnificent variety of peren-
nial Lupine in deep blue, purple and a dull tone of blue, which bears
from 10-20 great spikes of pea-shaped blossoms, followed by silvery
woolly seed-pods. It blooms a second time if the spikes are cut down
as soon as they are done blooming. For culture, see Lupine, White
Per., June.

MEADOW BEAUTY (Rhexia Virginica). 9-12 in. Showy rosy purple
flowers with golden anthers. Good in bog or wet place. Propagate
by seed or division.

PEONY (Pceonia ojficinalis, var. Bayard). Clear violet; P. var. Ar-
sene Meuret, lilac with violet border; P. var. Cameron, purple violet.
For culture, see Peony, White Per., June.

PENTSTEMON (P. ovatus). 2-4 ft. An early-flowered variety, bloom-
ing in autumn of the first year if seeds are planted by May. It bears
open panicles of blue or purple flowers, and needs rich loam with ma-
nure, leaf mold and sand; should be watered if the season is dry, but

216 Classified Lists

it cannot bear wet and frost in winter. Cover during winter with ashes
and mulch. Propagated by seeds, cuttings and division of root.

RHEXIA VIRGINICA, see Meadow Beauty.

ROCKET. Sweet (Hesperis matronalis). A lilac variety, see White
Per., June.

SCABIOSA CAUCASICA. i ft. A desirable plant bearing flower heads
of pale blue, 3 in. across. I find it somewhat difficult to raise this
plant from seed and it is not always hardy. It should be well
mulched.

S. CAUCASICA, var. perfecta. A superior variety with larger heads
than the preceding variety. Culture the same; give a rich soil, sun and
moisture, but not wet ground.

VERBASCUM, MOTH MULLEIN (F. Blattaria, var. Phosniceum). 2 ft.
A modest plant making a flat rosette of leaves from which rise branch-
ing racemes of flowers in a reddish purple, lilac pink and white i in.
across. Pretty, rather than showy. Increased by seeds and division of
the plant. Give any good soil.

JULY

BLUE SHRUBS

BURNING BUSH, WAAHOO (Euonymous atropurpureus). 6-14 ft
Flowers in fours of dark purple; leaves bright green; fruit becomes a
brilliant scarlet and covers the bush in autumn.

INDIGO. False (Amorpha fruticosa). 6-8 ft. A stocky bush sending
up numerous shoots. Flowers small, deep indigo blue or purple, borne
in clustered spikes, two or three in a bunch at the ends of the branches,
thus covering the bush with bloom. Give a sunny sheltered position
and any good soil. Propagate by layering suckers or cuttings. See
Lead Plant (Amorpha canescens), Blue Shrubs, Aug.

SMOKE TREE, VENETIAN SUMACH (Rhus cotinus). 5-9 ft. A very
ornamental shrub that turns a beautiful color in the autumn. The light
purple flowers are insignificant, but after blossoming the flower stems
lengthen, bearing long plumy hairs which make a reddish feathery mist
over the whole bush, and are mistaken for bloom. Foliage in autumn
is a warm rosy crimson. It thrives in a dry situation, with good rich
loam and is propagated by layering. Give plenty of room.

Blue Flowers 217

JULY
BLUE PERENNIALS

ACONITE. Wild, CLIMBING MONKSHOOD (Aconitum unciatum).
3-5 ft. A pale blue variety with a slender weak stem inclined to climb.
Flowers borne in loose panicles. Give a rich moist soil, sun and a sup-
port. Propagated by division of the root. With me this variety does
not bloom until early September because the tips ate eaten off, prob-
ably by grasshoppers, just as they are beginning to bud, but continues
until hard frosts.

ACONITE (A Storkianum). 3-4 ft. A rich blue variety.

ADENOPHORA POTANINI. 2 ft. A plant bearing slender spikes of
light-blue bell-shaped flowers resembling Campanula. Give a rich,
light soil in a sunny dry situation. Do not disturb when established.
Plant seeds as soon as ripe, or divide the roots. July and August.

ANCHUSA ITALICA var. Dropmore. 3-4 ft. A rich gentian blue variety
with prolonged bloom. Propagated by seed. See A. Blue Per. May.

BAPTISIA, FALSE INDIGO (B. australis). 3 ft. A vigorous plant
bearing racemes of large purplish-blue pea-shaped flowers; rather a
shy bloomer. Grows in any good soil; give sun; divide the root to in-
crease the stock.

BELLFLOWER. Japanese, see Platycodon.

CALIMERIS. Cut-leaved (Calimeris incisa also known as Aster in
cisa). 1-2 ft. An early variety of pale purple aster-like flower; bloom
of long duration. Rich soil, sun. Propagate by seed or division.

CANTERBURY BELL (Campanula medium). 2 ft. Both double and
single varieties in deep blue, pink and white. For culture see Canter-
bury Bell, White Per., July.

CATANANCHE, BLUE SUCCORY (C. carulea). 2 ft. A slender plant
bearing pale-blue daisy-shaped solitary flowers, 2 in. across, on long
stems. It grows best in poor gravelly soil ; also a white variety. Propa-
gate by seeds.

CATANANCHE (C. bicolor). A blue and white variety of the above,
quoted by some as a perennial, others call it a biennial; culture the
same as above.

CLEMATIS (C. Jackm&nni). A hybrid derived from C. languidosa
of China arid C. viticella from Europe. 4-10 ft. A desirable climber
bearing large, handsome deep- blue, pale-blue or white flowers. Though

2i 8 Classified Lists

it is killed to the ground by frost, it makes a vigorous new growth each
year if the roots are mulched in winter. Give a rich light soil, and plenty
of water during the blooming season. It is effective to train over a
lattice or by the side of a piazza. Propagate by cuttings of young wood
or by seeds. For culture see Clematis, White Per., July.

CLEMATIS (C. heracleafolia, var. Davidiana; closely allied to C.
tubulosa). 3-4 ft. An herbaceous plant with erect stem almost woody,
bearing pale-blue nodding flowers resembling hyacinths, with orange-
blossom fragrance, large leaves; needs a support. Culture the same as
for other varieties.

CLEMATIS (C. integrifolia). 2 ft. An earlier herbaceous species
forming an erect bush; large single drooping blue flowers are borne at
the ends of leafy stalks. Give rich, deep soil and sun. Propagate by
seed and cuttings.

DRACOCEPHALUM, DRAGON'S HEAD (D. Ruyschianum). 2 ft. Bears
dark violet-lipped flowers, i in. long, in whorls on erect stems. Re-
quires a cool situation, moist and partly shaded; propagated by division
of root and seeds, or by cuttings taken in May.

EUPATORIUM COELESTINUM. i-2 ft. A blue variety, bearing small
flat heads of light-blue flowers. For culture see Eupatorium, White
Per., July.

FALSE INDIGO, see Baptisia australis; also Amorpha fruticosa, Blue
Shrubs, July.

GENTIAN. Closed (Gentiana Andrewsii). 2 ft. A plant bearing
large closed dark purplish-blue flowers. The reticence of this flower
offends me, much as a too silent person embarrasses one. Grows
natively in moist, shaded places.

GENTIAN. Fringed (Gentiana crinata). 2 ft. A plant bearing erect
bell-shaped fringed flowers of a wonderful blue color. It is a biennial,
requiring moist, sandy soil, most difficult to raise from seed, and given
to strange disappearances even in its native haunts. I am still trying
to raise it after futile efforts for several years. It is recommended to
sow seed in large pots in which smaller pots, corked at the bottom and
filled with water, are placed. This insures an even moisture without
direct spraying. Where it is native the young seedlings may be trans-
planted for the second year of bloom. The seed is said to come up in
about a week under favorable conditions, and when the plant has
reached the third pair of leaves it is ready to be transplanted in a cool,
shady location.

Blue Flowers 219

HAREBELL, BLUE BELLS OF SCOTLAND (Campanula rotundifolia). 2
ft. A truly lovable plant with small, narrow leaves, slender branching
stems and deep blue bell-shaped flowers. Its true name is "air-bell,"
whether because of its tender blue, or because of its elastic stem, that
rises again when trodden upon, is not known. Does well in a rich,
moist soil and partly shaded location. Spreads from the root.

HEDGE-NETTLE, see Stachys lantana.

IRIS. Japanese (/. Icevigata or I. Kampferi). 2 ft. Many named
rarieties in deep, rich blue, lavender, violet, purple, white and yellow.
For culture see I. Jap., White Per., July.

LARKSPUR. Bee (Delphinium datum). 3-6 ft. A tall variety with
deep-blue flowers and yellowish beard, borne in straight racemes, slightly
branching; leaves 5-7 cleft with wedge-shaped lobes; spurs curved.

LARKSPUR. Great-Flowered, Chinese Larkspur (Delphinium grandi-
florum). Known also as D. Chinense and D. sinense. 1-2 ft. Deep-
blue flowers, ij in. across, on spreading racemes; leaves palmately
parted with many linear lobes; also a double-flowered variety.

LARKSPUR. Showy (Delphinium formosum, a hybrid form of D.
cheilanthum). 2-3 ft. A deep-blue variety shaded with indigo; leaves
alternate, downy, or grayish-green.

LARKSPUR (D. formosum, var. ccelesiina). 3-6 ft. A lovely azure-blue
form of D. formosum with yellow-bearded throat, leaves lobed and
notched, but not cleft.

If when done blooming, the stalks are cut down, and dressing applied
at the roots, the plant will bloom in autumn. Divide every three years.
For further culture of all the above varieties see Larkspur, White Per.,
July.

LAVENDER (Lavendula vera). 2 ft. A deliciously-scented herb
bearing spikes of small bluish flowers. Requires a dry, calcareous soil
and open situation. Propagated by seeds and cuttings taken in autumn.
This plant is not hardy with me.

LIATRIS, BLAZING STAR (L. pycnosiachya). 3-4 ft. A very showy
plant bearing numerous dense cylindrical spikes of rosy purple-fringed
flowers, springing from a low tuft of narrow Itfaves. Propagated by
division of root or seeds sown in autumn or spring. Does well in a dry
soil where few other plants will live.

LINARIA, ALPINE SNAPDRAGON (L. dpina). 6 in. Forms dense
tufts of whorled leaves and bears bluish-violet flowers with a yellow
throat. Does well in stiff, poor soil, and a sunny, exposed situation.

220 Classified Lists

OBEDIENT PLANT (Physostegia Virginiana). 3 ft. A very beautiful
plant with glossy, thick leaves, square stem and long, branching racemes
of rosy lilac flowers. Also a variety (P. imbricata or P. speciosa) that
grows 5 ft. high is of even greater beauty and vigor; has larger flowers
and broader leaves. The White variety is one of the most effective of
all garden flowers; does well in full sun if soil is rich and moist. See
Obedient Plant, White Per., July.

PENTSTEMON, BEARD-TONGUE (P. acuminatus). 2 it. Bears a long,
pointed raceme of lilac or pale-violet flowers. Suffers in a damp loca-
tion, particularly from the wet and cold of winter.

PENTSTEMON (P. grandiftorus) . 2-3 ft. The finest of all Pentstemons,
bearing showy purple flowers. For culture see Pentstemon, Blue Per.,
June.

PHYSOSTEGIA, see Obedient Plant.

PLATYCODON, WAHLENBERGIA, CHINESE BELLFLOWER (P. grandi-
florum). 2 ft. A variety of Campanula bearing very large, showy blue
flowers either solitary or but few at the top of branches. For culture
see Platycodon, White Per., July.

PLATYCODON, var. Maresi. Shorter variety with even larger flowers-,
also a light-blue dwarf variety, P. Maresi, var. nana. For culture see
paragraph above.

PERIWINKLE (Vinca minor, var. carulea). i ft. Many horticultural
varieties, and sometimes erroneously called Myrtle. A trailing plant
with shining leaves and sky-blue flowers i in. across. As the flowers
are borne on the new stock, nip the branches to make a bushy growth.
Propagated by layering, when roots will be thrown out at the joints,
and can be separated from the parent stock. ' To make it seed the plant
must be grown in a pot, and all lateral branches cut off. Requires loose,
rich soil and moisture. Does well in shaded places. Sometimes treated
as an annual, blooming in August.

SEA HOLLY (Eryngium amethyslinum) . 3 ft. Bears dense heads of
amethyst-blue flowers on blue stalks; deeply cut, spiny foliage. Should
be given a very sandy soil and sun. As it spreads badly from seeds,
the seed-vessels should not be allowed to form. Propagated also by
division.

SEA LAVENDER (Statice Limonium; also known as S. latifolia}. 2 ft.
The blue flowers are borne in a cloud on large, spreading panicles. It
makes a deep root and needs space as it is killed out if crowded. Thrives
in a deep, moist, sandy loam and leaf mold in a sunny situation; but

Blue Flowers 221

the plant suffers in a dry exposed place. Propagated by division of the
root and seeds in spring.

SPEEDWELL, VERONICA (Veronica spicata). 2-4 ft. A vigorous plant
bearing numerous tapering spikes of small, bright blue flowers. While
it is thrifty and handsome and excellent for cutting it is also a nuisance,
for a seedling will establish itself in a few years so completely that one
cannot uproot it without tearing up a large area; and it sows itself all
over the garden. It needs no attention; any garden soil is sufficient.

STACHYS, HEDGE NETTLE (S. lantana). i-i£ ft. Bears purple-
striped flowers in whorls, the upper ones forming almost a spike of
bloom; forms a low tuft of leaves, thick, soft and covered with silvery-
white wool, as is also the stem. Give a light, rich soil; propagate by
seeds, cuttings or division of the root.

STOKESIA or STOKES' ASTER (S. cyanea, known also as S. Cartesia).
2 ft. An erect, branching perennial bearing solitary terminal flowers
of lavender blue, often 4-5 in. across. Give a rich soil, mixed with
sand, sunny location; propagate by seeds or division of the root. Protect
in winter.

VERONICA, see Speedwell, also Blue Per. Aug.

AUGUST
BLUE SHRUBS

BUDDLEYA LINDLEYANA. 3-6 ft. Bears terminal racemes of reddish-
purple flowers. Authorities say do not prune, as it reduces the number
and size of flowers; but mine dies to the ground every winter, and makes
a new three-foot growth each year, blooming late in August. It grows
in any good soil in a sunny sheltered position and is propagated by
cuttings. When not killed back, it blooms in June or July. Several
other varieties I have not tried.

CHASTE TREE (Vitex agnus-castus}. 3-6 ft. Flowers a bright blue
or lilac, rising above a small, neat bush; foliage grayish beneath; gives
of! an aromatic fragrance. Some varieties are not hardy. Give a heavy
mulch, cutting back the plant nearly to the ground, and the shoots that
start vigorously in the spring from the base yield finer flowers than they
would otherwise. This blue, variety is claimed to be more hardy than
others; recently introduced from China.

LEAD PLANT (Amorpha canescens). 1-3 ft A shrub with deep

222 Classified Lists

purple flowers in clustered terminal spikes several inches long. Foliage
and stems whitish or lead-colored. Give a sheltered sunny position
and deep rich soil; late in August.

SPIREA. Blue (Caryopteris mastacanthus). Shrub bearing conical
spikes of lavender-blue flowers resembling blue larkspur. Can be cut
down like an herbaceous herb and mulched over winter without injuring
the next season's flowers. August and September. Flourishes by the
seacoast. Plant with Sorbaria sorbifolia.

AUGUST
BLUE PERENNIALS

DAY LILY. Blue (Funkia ovata, var. carulea). 2 ft. A variety
bearing light lilac-blue funnel-shaped flowers, not so large as F. sub-
cordata, nor is it fragrant. For culture see Day Lily, White Per.,
August.

FLEABANE (Erigeron glaucus). §-i ft. A plant with pale foliage in a
tuft, bearing large solitary terminal flowers, purple in color, resembling
the China aster. In some places this variety is not quite hardy, and
should either be lifted and placed in a cold frame, or covered deep with
ashes. Propagate by seed or division; partial shade, any soil.

LOBELIA. Great (Lobelia syphilitica). 2 ft. A hardy variety of
Lobelia, bearing large pale-blue tubular flowers both axillary and ter-
minal, forming a long raceme. It requires rich, moist soil and mois-
ture; propagated by seeds and cuttings. My experience is that it is
most difficult to raise from seed, and probably requires special condi-
tions, as I have tried vainly for three years to get seedlings.

PHLOX. Perennial (P. paniculata, often called P. decussata, var.
A. A. McKimmori). 3-4 ft. A purplish-lilac variety.

PHLOX (P. paniculata, var. Eugene Danzanvilliers). A light-blue
variety.

PHLOX (P. paniculata, var. Le Mahdt). A steel-blue variety of great
beauty.

For general culture of the above varieties see Phlox, White Per.,
August.

VERONICA. Long-leaved (V. longifolia subsessilis), 2 ft. A bright
blue variety of long bloom, especially recommended; see Speedwell,
Blue Per., July.

Blue Flowers 223

SEPTEMBER
BLUE SHRUBS

DESMODIUM PENDULIFLORUM, see Lespedeza Sieboldi.

LESPEDEZA SIEBOLDI (or Desmodium penduliflorum) . 3-6 ft. Shrub
with long pendulous branches covered with long racemes of pink or
rosy-purple flowers continuing until frost. Plant in a sheltered situa-
tion, and give protection in winter; also cut back almost to the ground,
and the roots will be uninjured, and vigorous shoots will be thrown up
in the spring. Thrives in any good soil.

SEPTEMBER
BLUE PERENNIALS

ASTER, MICHAELMAS DAISY (A. tradescanti). 4 ft. A very beautiful
free-flowering variety with branching clusters of rayed amethyst flowers,
the petals often forming a thick double row about a golden center.
It spreads badly at the root, and must be continually divided and reset.
It is also liable to mildew, for which, see remedy for mildew, p. 131.
The Michaelmas Daisy comes in many named varieties, and is one of
our most valued late flowers. Do not plant in very conspicuous places
for it is only a green bush until autumn. Thrives in any good soil and
any location. Is sometimes infested during the blooming season with
a small black beetle that must be scraped off into kerosene.

ASTER (A. Alpinus speciosus). 2 ft. Another species sometimes
called Michaelmas Daisy, with large purple flowers blooming occasion-
ally as early as June.

ASTER (A Nova-Anglia). 4 ft. A rosy-purple variety.

ASTER (4. grandiflorus). 3ft. A violet-purple variety.

ASTER (A. Nova-Belgii). 3 ft. Mauve with golden center. All the
above varieties require the same culture. *

BOLTONIA (B. latisquima). 4-6 ft. A clear lavender-blue variety
with flowers in large terminal panicles. Also a white and a pink variety.
For culture, see Boltonia, White Per., September.

LIATRIS (L. spicata). 1-2 ft. A smaller and less showy variety than
L. pycnostachya with rosy lilac flowers in spikes from 6-15 in. long;

224 Classified Lists

blooms several weeks later than the other variety. For culture, see
Liatris, Blue Per., July.

LEADWORT, PLUMBAGO (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides — trade name
Plumbago Larpenta). i ft. A half -shrubby perennial with zigzag stem
and close terminal heads of deep blue flowers changing to violet. It
requires a light rich soil and is propagated by seed or division of root.
Give a warm sheltered situation, and mulch in winter.

JUNE

BLUE ANNUALS

ASPERULA (A. azurea setosa). i ft. A tender perennial treated as
an annual, bearing terminal clusters of small tubular lavender-blue
flowers. It thrives in any good soil and is self-sowing. June to
September.

BACHELOR'S BUTTON, CORN-FLOWER (Centaurea cyanus, var. Em-
peror William). 2-3 ft. Bears deep-blue flowers in the greatest pro-
fusion if the seed-vessels are picked off as they form; self-sowing.
Autumn-sown seed produce the strongest plants and bloom in June,
while spring-sown seed come a month later. For culture, see Bachelor's
Button, White An., July.

CLARKIA (C. puchelld). i ft. A low-growing variety bearing single
deeply -lobed lilac flowers of great beauty; also a semi-double variety, and
one in pink; self -sowing. Autumn-sown seed bloom in June; spring-
sown seed in July. Allow from 6-9 in. to each plant. Give a rich moist
soil. June to September.

CONVOLVULUS. Dwarf (C. tricolor, also called C. minor), i ft. A
dwarf variety with ascending branching stems and large showy flowers
with rich blue corolla and white throat and yellow tube. Closely re-
sembles Nolana. Opens only in sunshine. Culture the same as Morn-
ing-Glory.

CYNOGLOSSUM (Omphaloides linifolia, var. ccdestina, commonly
called C. ccdestinum). i ft. A sky-blue variety bearing flowers that
resemble Forget-me-nots. See Cynoglossum, White An., June.

EUTOCA (E, viscida, known also as Phacelia viscida). 8 in. A rather
coarse variety of Phacelia, clammy all over, bearing terminal racemes
of deep-blue flowers less than an inch across, similar in flower but not
so handsome as Phacelia. For culture, see Phacelia, White An., June.

Blue Flowers 225

FRAGRANT EVENING STOCK (Maithiola odoratissima, erroneously
called M. bicornis). i ft. A curious plant with stems much branched
and inconspicuous leaves and deliriously fragrant flowers of a lilac-
white opening at sunset, but closed tightly during the day. It should
be in every garden for the sake of its rich perfume, but should not be
given a prominent place because through the day it is an awkward
looking plant, apparently all stem. It grows in any good soil and is
self-sowing. June to October.

MORNING-GLORY (Ipomea purpured). 6-12 ft. A variety with rich
deep purple or blue flowers. For culture, see Morning- Glory, White
An., June.

MORNING-GLORY. Japanese (Ipomea Imperialis) . In a great va-
riety of colors, white, pink, blue, purple, some fringed, others margined
with another color. A much more tender variety than the preceding,
but far more beautiful. Seeds are slow to germinate and it is well to
file one side to hasten them, care being taken, however, not to injure
the germ. Should have a rich soil and very sheltered situation, as it is
hurt by early frost.

NEMOPHILA (N. insignis). Sometimes endearingly called Baby
Blue Eyes. 8 in. A variety with lovely sky-blue flowers with white
center. Self-sowing. Give a moist rich soil, partial shade. White
variety, see White An., June.

NOLANA (N. atriplici folia), ij ft. A rather fleshy -leaved plant,
trailing and spreading, with handsome sky-blue wheel-shaped flowers
2 in. across with yellow centers and white throat. Closely resembles
Convolvulus minor, and like it, opens only in sunshine. Sow seed in
April or early May.

PHACELIA (P. campanularia). i ft. A pure deep-blue variety with
open wheel-shaped corolla an inch across, borne on one-sided curving
terminal clusters. Thrives in any good soil and partial shade; a most
desirable plant. June to September.

SWEET SULTAN (Centaur ea moschata). ij ft. A blue sweet-scented
variety. For culture, see Sweet Sultan, White An., June.

WHITLAVIA (Phacelia Whitlavia; also known as Whitlavia grandi-
flora). i ft. Resembles P. viscida in foliage and growth, but bears
small bell-shaped flowers with violet blue corolla and white bell throat;
self-sowing. For culture, see Whitlavia, White An., June to October.

226 Classified Lists

JULY

BLUE ANNUALS

AGERATTJM (A. conyzoides, known as A. Mexicanum). i-i£ ft. Many
named varieties in light and dark blue. A very useful plant for cutting,
blooming continuously until frost. Self sowing. For culture, see Ag-
eratum, White An., July.

ANCHUSA (4. eapensis). i| ft. An annual variety resembling the
perennial forms, bearing scattering azure-blue flowers all summer.
Not of much value, however. It is a biennial if protected in winter.
Give a good soil and sun. July to September.

ASTER (Cattistephus). In many named varieties of light and deep
blue, lavender and purple. For culture, see Aster, White An., July.

BEAN, HYACINTH, EGYPTIAN BEAN (Dolichos Idblab). 10 ft. A
smooth twiner with long racemes of showy violet, purple or white flow-
ers an inch long. Give a sandy loam and sun.

CANDYTUFT (Iberis umbettata). i ft. A lilac purple variety of Candy-
tuft. For culture, see C., White An., July.

COLLINSIA (C. bicolor). i ft. A stout plant with handsome lipped
flowers of blue and white. Give a rich light loam and sun.

GILIA (G. achillea folia). 2 ft. A plant with ornamental cut foliage
and clusters of deep-blue flowers on long stems. It is useful as it is one
of the earliest flowers to bloom and does not die away and leave spaces
as so many annuals do. Sow seeds in either autumn or spring in any
good soil. Self-sowing. June to September.

GILIA (G. capitata). 2 ft. Bears dense round heads of steel-blue
flowers; foliage consists of almost thread-like divisions; very attractive
flower for cutting.

GILIA (G. tricolor), i ft. Is a free bloomer used as a border with
smaller flowers; has a light purple margin, a deeper purple band inside,
separating the margin from the canary-colored throat. Culture the
same for all.

FORGET-ME-NOT (Myosostis sempervirens). 8 in. A perennial variety
blooming the first season from seed so that it can be used as an an-
nual; sky-blue in color. For culture, see Forget-me-not, White Per.,
May.

LINARIA, TOADFLAX (L. maroccana). i ft. A plucky little annual
blooming continuously from June until late frosts if cut freely; self-

Blue Flowers 227

sowing; bears an enormous number of long racemes covered with rosy-
purple spurred flowers. Thrives in full sun in stiff poor soil.

LUPINE (Lupinus affinis). An annual variety with deep-blue flowers.
Sow seed where the plants are to grow as they do not transplant very well.

LUPINE (L. nanus). A bluish-purple variety.

LUPINE (L. mutabilis). 2 ft. A sweet-scented violet-purple variety.
Give a rich light soil, full sun and water.

MARTYNIA, UNICORN PLANT (M. fragrans). 3 ft. A coarse shrubby
plant with large foliage and vanilla-scented violet-purple or mauve tub-
ular flowers with beautiful yellow lyre-shaped markings in the throat.
Grows in any good soil. Seed-vessels used for pickling.

NASTURTIUM. Tall (Tropadum majus, var. regelianum). A violet-
purple variety of this common favorite.

NASTURTIUM (T. Lobbianum, var. Lacombe Mercier). A purplish-
violet variety of Lobb's Nasturtium which is considered the best species
for rich coloring. For culture, see Nasturtium, White An., July.

NIGELLA, FENNEL FLOWER (N. Damascena). i ft. A sky-blue
variety of this charming annual. Autumn-sown seed make the strong-
est plants. Make successive sowings in the spring to get flowers through-
out the summer; does not transplant well; thrives in almost any situa-
tion in any good soil. For culture see Nigella, White An., July.

PANSY (Viola tricolor). Many hybrid varieties in rich tones of lav-
ender, purple, violet and blue; blooms as an annual in six to eight weeks
from seed, and continues as a perennial the second year. For culture
see Pansy, White Per., April.

PETUNIA (P. violacea, var. Ruffled Giants). 2 ft. A purple-violet
variety with enormous flowers with ruffled margins; also many hybrid
varieties, both single and double, and fringed. See Petunia, White An.,
July.

PHLOX (P. Drummondii, var. grandiflora). Many named varieties
in lavender and violet shades. For culture see Phlox, White An., July.

POPPY. Opium (Papaver somniferum). 3 ft. A single variety that
comes in rich purple, lavender and a soft grayish-lavender with ex-
quisite pale green stamens.

POPPY. Paeony (P. somniferum, var. p<zoni<zftorum). 3 ft. Comes
in clear tones of pinkish-lilac and purple; a magnificent plant to grow
at the edge of a vegetable garden where there is plenty of room, and
makes no gap when done blooming. Bloom lasts two weeks. For cul-
ture see Poppy, White An., June.

228 Classified Lists

ScmzANTHUS (S. pinnatus, var. lilac}, i ft. A lilac variety with
violet spots. Sow in April in rich soil. For culture see Schizanthus,
White An., June.

STOCK, GILLYFLOWER (Matthiola annua). 1-2 ft. Many hybrid
varieties in dark and light and purple. For culture see Stock, White
An., July.

SWEET CLOVER (Melilotus caruld). 2 ft. A sky-blue variety with
fragrant flowers. See Sweet Clover, White An., July.

SWEET-PEA (Lathyrus odoratus). 4-6 ft. Many hybrid varieties in
all shades of blue, violet and lavender. See Sweet-Pea, White An.,
July.

VENUS' LOOKING-GLASS (Specularia speculum), i ft. An annual
variety of Campanula of curious beauty, with deep-blue flowers having
silvery veining that gives a strange metallic effect; stems branch, and
the branches bear three-flowered clusters. Grows in any good soil
with sun and moisture. July to October.

VERBENA (V. aubletia). i-i£ ft. In many hybrid varieties of lav-
ender, purple and blue; for culture see Verbena, White An., July.

VISCARIA. Blue-Eyed (Lychnis oculata, var. carulea, a form of L.
codi-rosa or Agrostemma, as it is known commonly), i ft. A bluish-
lavender variety; see Agrostemma, White An., July.

AUGUST
BLUE ANNUALS

ANAGALLIS (4. carulea, var. grandiflora). i ft. A low plant of
spreading habit bearing a succession of intense blue wheel-shaped
flowers an inch across. Give rich moist soil and partial shade; opens
only in the sun.

BROWALLIA (B. demissa, var. speciosa major [B. elata]). 2 ft. An
erect plant with almost woody stems, bearing bright-blue flowers that
somewhat resemble the violet. Give a rich soil and liquid manure
when the buds appear. It should be picked back to promote a bushy
growth. It is particularly desirable for a winter house plant, and
should be taken up early in September before frost.

COMMELINA (C. erecta). i£ ft. Can be treated as an annual, but
blooms better if grown as a tender perennial; bears flowers of a very
lovely blue. For culture see Commelina, Blue Per., June.

Blue Flowers 229

COMMELINA (C. codestis). A half-hardy perennial variety, which
should be covered with ashes or sand and heavily mulched in winter.
Culture the same as above.

LARKSPUR (Delphinium consolidd). 1-2 ft. A deep-blue branching
variety in both tall and dwarf forms.

LARKSPUR. Rocket (Delphinium Ajacis). 2 ft. A deep-blue va-
riety with flowers borne in close racemes. For culture of both varieties
see Larkspur, White An., August.

LOBELIA (L. erinus, grown under many trade names). 3 in.-i ft. A
dainty little plant used largely for edgings, baskets or vases, with lipped
flowers ranging from dark to very light blue, mostly with a white throat.
It requires rich moist soil.

ROCKET, see Larkspur.

SAL VIA (S. patens). 2 ft. One of the best blue flowers grown; a
tender perennial blooming the first year from seed, with a showy deep-
blue corolla over two inches long. Like all Salvias S. patens should
have rich light soil, sun and much moisture.

SAL VIA (S. farinacea). 2 ft. A light-blue variety with hoary white
leaves, spikes and calyxes. For culture see preceding paragraph.

SCABIOUS, MOURNING BRIDE (ScaMosa atropurpurea, var. grandi-
flora). 1-3 ft. Both tall and dwarf varieties in deep purple, lavender
and light blue. One of our most beautiful annuals in any color. See
Scabious, White An., August.

VINCA, PERIWINKLE (Vinca minor carulea). A blue variety, that in
sheltered places North may be treated as a perennial. As an annual it
blooms in August, as a perennial it flowers in June or early July. See
Periwinkle. Blue Per., July.

ZINNIA (Z. elegans, var. cristata). 2-3 ft. Grows in purple, lilac and
violet tones; see Zinnia, White An., August.

YELLOW FLOWERS
APRIL

YELLOW SHRUBS— None in my climate

APRIL

YELLOW PERENNIALS

CROCUS. Cloth of Gold (C. susianus). The earliest yellow variety.

CROCUS. Dutch (C. masiacus—C. aureus). A later variety. For
culture see Crocus, White Per., April.

PANSY (Viola tricolor). Hybrid variety Golden Sun. For culture see
Pansy, White Per., April.

MAY
YELLOW SHRUBS

FORSYTHIA. Golden Bell (F. viridissima). 3 ft. An erect vigorous
shrub with bright yellow solitary drooping flowers distributed along
the branches so as almost to cover the bush.

FORSYTHIA. We ping, Golden Bell (F. suspensa, known also as F.
Fortunt). An earlier variety than the former, with long drooping slen-
der branches, and is often treated as a climber; is less common. Give
both varieties deep rich soil, and prune severely just after flowering to
secure new growth, as flowers are borne on previous year's wood. If
pruned in autumn or early spring the flowering wood is lost. This
variety may be kept to a single stem and then allowed to spread over
a trellis or trained over a doorway. Increased by layering the branches
and division of the root. The drooping branches root easily at the tip
if buried in earth.

BUSH HONEYSUCKLE (Diervilla sessilifolia). 5-8 ft. Of strong
bushy growth, foliage rather downy of grayish green; many inconspic-
uous flowers of a pale yellow resembling the honeysuckle, but not
fragrant. Thrives in any soil; throws up suckers.

230

Yellow Flowers 231

MAY
YELLOW PERENNIALS

ADONIS. Spring (A. vernalis). 6-12 in. Bears large showy yellow
flowers, leaves finely divided. Needs a rich moist soil well drained;
can be propagated by seeds or division of root.

ALYSSUM. Rock (A. saxtile, var. compacta). 6-12 in. An excellent
border plant making a close spreading growth with its woolly leaves,
and bears many clusters of fragrant bright yellow flowers. It thrives
best in a sandy gravelly soil, as a wet soil is not adapted to it; yet if too
dry the roots wither. It is well to renew every three or four years;
propagated by seed, division of the root and cuttings.

AQUILEGIA, see Columbine.

COLUMBINE. Golden -spurred (Aquilegia chrysanthd). 3 ft. Bright
yellow variety, stems many flowered; one of the best.

COLUMBINE. Wild or Rock (Aquilegia Canadensis). 1-1$ ft. Yel-
low and scarlet; foliage tinted with red. Thrives in its native haunts
among rocks and on ledges.

COLUMBINE (A Calif ornica hybrida). 3-4 ft. Flowers yellow or
orange -yellow with long slender orange spurs, leaves bluish green, stems
red. A hybrid variety of A. formosa; one of the most beautiful kinds.

COLUMBINE (A. Jaetschui). 3 ft. A very choice variety with yellow
flowers and old rose spurs; handsome glaucus leaves.

For general culture of the above varieties see Columbine, White
Per., May.

DAFFODIL, see Narcissus.

ERYSIMUM, HEDGE MUSTARD (E. puchellum). i ft. Makes a very
compact growth, and from the dense tuft of foliage rise many-flowered
terminal racemes of yellow blossoms. Thrives in a sandy loam; propa-
gated by seed or division of the root.

HYACINTH (Hyacinthus orientalis). i ft. Single varieties — Ida and
King 0/ the Yellows. Double varieties — Goethe and Jaune Supreme.
For culture, see Hyacinth, White Per., May. '

ICELAND POPPY (Papaver nudicaule). i ft. Single and double va-
rieties in bright yellow. See Iceland P., White Per., May.

IRIS. German (7m Germanica, var. ftavescens). A creamy yellow
variety— also other named varieties— see Iris, Ger., White and Blue
Per., May.

232 Classified Lists

JONQUIL (Narcissus Jonquilla, var. Rugulosus and N. var. Cam-
pernelle). i% ft. A bright yellow; fragrant; crown shallow and saucer-
shaped; 2-6 flowers on a scape. For culture, see Narcissus, White Per.,
May.

NARCISSUS, DAFFODIL (N. pseudo-narcissus, var. Golden Spur and
Princeps). Flowers solitary, sulphur-yellow with deep trumpet-shaped
crowns. For culture, see N. poeticus, White Per., May.

POPPY. Alpine (Papaver alpinum). 6 in. Is practically the same
as Iceland Poppy (P. nudicaule) only dwarfer in form. It is generally
yellow, but there are also white and pink varieties. See Pink Per., May.
Culture the same.

POPPY. Iceland, see Iceland Poppy.

TULIP (Tulipa — many hybrid varieties).

Early single — Goldfinch, Chrysolora and Mm Tresor.
Early double — Crown of Gold.
Late double — Yellow Rose.

TULIP. Parrot (Tulipa Dracontia, var. lutea major). For general
culture, see Tulip, White Per., May.

JUNE

YELLOW SHRUBS

BARBERRY. Common (Berberis vulgaris). 3-6 ft. Bright yellow
flowers followed by tart red berries that are used for jelly. When fa-
vorably planted in full sun it spreads extensively.

BARBERRY. Japanese (Berberis Thunbergii). 3-6 ft. A low spread-
ing bush with yellow flowers often tinged with red; berries a bright red,
and in autumn the foliage becomes a glowing scarlet, orange or bronze,
thrives in any good soil, and in the sun.

BARBERRY. Purple-leaved (Berberis vulgaris, var. atropurpured) .
4-6 ft. Flowers inconspicuous, foliage a rich purple; give full sun and
rather dry soil.

BROOM. Scotch (Cytisns scoparius). 3-5 ft. A shrub barely hardy
in the North, with solitary showy yellow flowers in the axils of the
leaves. Propagated by division and cuttings. Requires a gravelly soil
and a warm sheltered position.

BROOM. Dyer's Greenwood (Genista tinctoria). 1-2 ft. A half
shrubby species, flowering in spring and autumn; blossoms yellow in

Yellow Flowers 233

close racemes; the whole plant — particularly the flowers — yield a fine
yellow dye. Requires a poor gravelly soil.

ROSE. Austrian Brier (R. Eglanteria). 2-4 ft. Resembles the Sweet-
Brier in its prickly stem and small leaves; flowers clear yellow semi-
double, not very large.

ROSE. Golden Sun (R. Eglanteria, var. Soleil d'Or). A new French
variety of rich golden yellow shaded with orange. Very choice.

ROSE. Persian Yellow (Rosa Eglanteria, var. lutea). 3-5 ft. A
very hardy variety with handsome double bright yellow flowers in clusters
and very small leaves; vigorous in growth, and hardy.

ROSE. Scotch (Rosa spinosissimd). 1-2 ft. A low very prickly
variety with small smooth green leaves, single or semi-double small early
flowers; very hardy. For white var., see White Per., June.

ROSE. Wichuriana (Rosa Wichuriana, var. Gardenia). A variety of
trailing Rose very useful for covering trellises, walls or banks, bearing
deliciously-scented flowers 3 in. across that are yellow in the bud, but
turn a cream color when open.

ROSE. Yellow Rambler. A hybrid variety, vigorous and free-
blooming; flowers double, yellow and fragrant, borne in great clusters;
very hardy.

For culture of the above varieties, see Rose, White Per., June.

JUNE
YELLOW PERENNIALS

ASPHODEL. Yellow (Asphodeline lutea, known commonly as Aspho-
delus luteus). 2-3 ft. Bears yellow fragrant flowers in spikes i ft. long,
leaves grass-like attached to the flower-stalk. Requires a deep sandy
loam and is easily propagated by suckers which it makes freely, or by
seed.

BEDSTRAW. Lady's (Galium verum). 1-3 ft. A spreading variety
bearing tiny yellow flowers that resemble goldenrod; foliage finely cut
and feathery. Propagate by division of root a*nd seed; any soil and
sunny location. A wild variety that repays cultivation. June to Sep-
tember. See white varieties, White Per., July.

BITTERSWEET (Celastrus scandens). 8-20 ft. A smooth climber
bearing yellow flowers in terminal racemes in late June or early July,
followed by handsome orange-red three-cornered berries. Propagated

234 Classified Lists

by layering the branches or cuttings of young wood in early autumn.
Give a rich soil and full sun.

BUTTERCUP, BULBOUS, CUCKOO BUDS, GOLD CUP (Ranunculus
bulbosus). 2 ft. A plant native to New England that thrives well un-
der cultivation; bears very showy bright yellow flowers; needs a rich
moist soil.

BUTTERCUP. Tall (Ranunculus acris pi. ft.}. 2-3 ft. A cultivated
garden variety bearing golden yellow balls or buttons on long branch-
ing stems. Give sun and moist soil.

CALLIOPSIS, see Coreopsis.

COREOPSIS, TICKWEED (C. lanceolata, var. grandi flora). 2-3 ft.
Forms a broad low tuft of leaves and stems that branch from the base;
usually one-flowered; heads yellow with rayed petals are from 2-3 in.
across. Propagated by seed or division of root in autumn or spring.
Give sun and any good soil.

DAY LILY. Yellow (Hemerocallis flava). 3 ft. One of our most
desirable lilies bearing clusters of 3-8 pale golden yellow funnel-shaped
flowers of delicious fragrance. It spreads freely from the root and is
propagated by division. Give a sunny location with deep rich soil, but
no manure must come in contact with the roots. Water freely through
the blooming season.

DORONICUM CAUCASICUM, see Leopard's Bane.

FLAX. Golden (Linum flavum). i ft. Bears transparent golden
yellow flowers numerously produced in branched heads. Give a well-
drained sandy loam in a warm sheltered position. Propagated by seeds,
sometimes by division of root in spring.

GLOBE-FLOWER (Trollius Asiaticus pi. /?.). i ft. Very handsome
dark yellow flowers from i-ij in. across; plant very compact and many-
flowered. Requires a heavy moist soil; propagated by seeds which do
not germinate until the second year; or by division of root in
September.

HELIANTHEMUM, see Sun Rose.

IRIS. German (/. Germanica, var. aurea and /. ftavescens). 2-3 ft.
Yellow varieties of this most desirable plant. For culture, see Iris,
White Per., June.

IRIS. Spanish (/. Xiphium, var. Bella Chinoise). 2 ft. A variety
of extraordinary beauty which looks like an orchid of clear mandarin
yellow with long strap-shaped petals bearing heart-shaped appendages
at the tips. Leaves slender, disappearing when the bulb is ripe. Di-

Yellow Flowers 235

vide often, give sheltered position. For culture, see I. Spanish, White
Per., June.

LEOPARD'S BANE (Doronicum Caucasicum). i ft. A showy plant
with dark yellow flowers 3 in. across; root leaves heart-shaped; thrives
in any common soil. Propagated by seed or division of the root.

LILY. Flava, see Day Lily, Yellow.

LINUM, see Flax. Golden.

LUPINE (Lupinus polyphyllus aureus). 3 ft. A yellow variety of this
delightful plant; for culture, see Lupine, White Per., June.

MULLEIN. Italian, see Verbascum pannosum.

PEONY (Paonia offkinalis, var. Golden Harvest; also Candidissima).
For culture, see Peony, White Per., June.

POTENTILLA (P. recta). 2 ft. Hybrid varieties both single and double
in yellow; for culture, see P. White Per., June.

RANUNCULUS (R. Asiaticus, double hybrid, var. Merveilleuse). Erect
plant with stems branching at the base; bears large double flowers on
long stems. It should have moist rich loam and shade during the heat
of the day. Plant 2 in. deep in November, and give protection. When
the plant flowers, the leaves wither and the roots should be taken up,
dried in the shade and kept in a dry place until wanted for replanting.
They grow easily from seed, also by offsets. Full sun makes a defi-
ciency both in size and color. If left in the ground mulch through the
summer. The Turban variety is coarser but hardier than the Persian.

ROCKET. Yellow, or Wintercress (Barbarea vulgaris). 2 ft. I am
not sure of this identification of a plant, found in Maryland and trans-
planted to my garden, where it flourished amazingly and bloomed for
a month or more. Long glaucus leaves resemble the poppy, surmounted
by a leafy stalk which bears a large branching terminal cluster of
bright golden yellow flowers, almost an inch across, followed by slender
upright pods enclosing little oval seeds. The flowers are showy enough
to merit a place among shrubbery.

SUN ROSE (Helianthemum alpestre). 6 in. A yellow variety of this
hardy evergreen plant which bears numerous racemes of flowers open-
ing only in the sun. It makes a bushy growth, but seedlings are slow
to get established. Give a rich moist soil and sun. Propagated by
seed. Needs a little protection in the winter.

THERMOPSIS (T. Caroliniana). 3-6 ft. An erect herb with hand-
some smooth yellow-green foliage and many terminal spikes of bright
yellow pea-shaped flowers. Give a rich deep well-drained soil. It is

236 Classified Lists

difficult to preserve; for when the root is divided, the plant often dies.
Raise from spring or autumn-sown seed when possible; or divide only
strong roots. A very striking plant when well grown; needs staking
because the stems are brittle.

VERBASCUM, MULLEIN (V. nigrum). 2 ft. A cultivated form with
woolly stems and leaves woolly beneath, flowers yellow borne on a long
simply -branched stem; will bloom a second time if cut down, early.

VERBASCUM (V. pannosum). A hybrid variety with curious white
foliage. See Mullein, Italian.

JULY
YELLOW SHRUBS

OLEASTER (El&agnus longipes, E. edulis). 3-5 ft. A shrub with
slender branches covered with brown scales. In Japan it attains a
height of 25 ft. Leaves green above, silvery beneath; flowers yellow
and inconspicuous; fruit bright red covered with white dots, very abun-
dant and showy as well as of agreeable flavor, some people prefer it to
current or gooseberry; used in France for preserving.

OLEASTER (Elaagnus umbellatus). Sometimes confounded with E.
longipes, has foliage of a silvery cast, smaller amber fruit, which is acid
at first, but becomes sweet and mellow, ripening in November, when
other berries are gone. This variety is good as a foliage shrub, and
further south the fruit would probably ripen.

OLEASTER (E. parvifolius, Silver Tree or Silver Thorn). 8-12 ft.
E. Canadensis is even more silvery white in foliage, and the flowers are
fragrant, fruit dry and mealy, but considered desirable. Throws up
many suckers.

HONEYSUCKLE. Sweet-scented (Lonicera Periclymenum, also known
as L. Belgica). 6-12 ft. A smooth climber with woody stems, bearing
clusters of fragrant light buff flowers. Give a rich moist soil and sun.
Propagated by layering or cuttings or division of the root.

HONEYSUCKLE. Japanese (Lonicera Japonica. Known also as L.
Hattiana). Another variety fragrant at nightfall.

KERRIA, JAPANESE ROSE, JEW'S MALLOW (K. Japonica, var. pi. ft.).
4-8 ft. Said to be a hardy shrub, though mine dies almost to the ground
every winter. Has slender branching bright green stems and leaves, and
Solitary flowers along the stems. The single flowered variety is more

Yellow Flowers 237

graceful and is nearly always in flower. Give a good rich soil. Propa-
gate by division, cuttings or layering.

ST. JOHN'S-\VORT (Hypericum calycinum). 1-3 ft. A rapidly
spreading low shrub with dark glossy leaves, large yellow flowers 3 in.
across, and showy reddish stamens. Used as a carpet under trees in
England. Prefers a sandy loam. Give sun or partial shade; protect
in winter. Propagate by division of the root or cuttings.

ST. JOHN'S- WORT (H. densiflorum). 4-6 ft. A very branching
variety with small conspicuous flowers, less than an inch across, in com-
pound cymes; adapts itself to sandy barren soil, though it prefers better
conditions.

ST. JOHN'S-WORT (H. Moserianum). 2-3 ft. A recent introduction
with slender branching and drooping stems, free flowering, though the
blooms do not open at the same time; blossoms 2 in. across, of golden
yellow, and brilliant reddish stamens. Blooms the entire season. Give
a sheltered sunny position as it is not always hardy in New England.
One of the best varieties.

ST. JOHN'S-WORT (H. prolificum). 4-6 ft. Shrub with widely
spreading head, branches light red, flowers large and showy in terminal
dusters.

JULY

YELLOW PERENNIALS

ASCLEPIAS, see Butterfly Weed.

BLACK- EYED SUSAN, CONE FLOWER (Rudbeckia hirta). 2-3 ft. A
branching variety of the native yellow Daisy with flat or broadly con-
ical purplish-brown disk and brilliant yellow or orange rays. Under
cultivation it makes a gorgeous showing in rich soil and full sun. It is
excellent in dry situations. Do not let it go to seed.

BLANKET FLOWER, see Gaillardia.

BUTTERFLY WEED (Asdepias tuberosa). 1-2 ft. A very showy
plant with bright orange flowers in umbels scattered along terminal
stems that branch divergently at the top. Give a dry sandy soil and
sunny situation. Disturb as little as possible; increase by division.

CHAMOMILE (Anthemis tinctoria, var. Kelwayii). i^ ft. A bushy
plant with a long season of bloom; has bright yellow rayed heads as
large as the Ox-Eye Daisy; a tubular disk and much-divided leaves.
Give any good soil and propagate by division or seed, and full sun.

238 Classified Lists

CLEMATIS. Heavy scented (C. orientalisj known also as C. gravolens).
A variety with yellow flowers i£ in. across. For culture, see C. White
Per., July.

ERIGONUM UMBELLATUM. 3-12 in. A very showy plant bearing flat-
heads or cymes of light yellow flowers from 6-10 in. across; joints of
stem downy. Thrives in rich light soil; increased by seed and division
of root.

EVENING PRIMROSE (CEnothera biennis, var. grandiflora). 4-5 ft.
A biennial variety opening its large creamy yellow flowers at dusk in a
striking manner, but the bloom fades by morning.

EVENING PRIMROSE (O. Missouriensis). 6 in. A variety with pros-
trate stems flowers opening just before sunset.

EVENING PRIMROSE (O. fruticosa, var. splendens [Sundrops]). 2 ft.
Bears clusters of golden yellow terminal flowers which open only in
bright sunshine, plant turns a rich red in autumn. For culture, see
Evening Primrose, White Per., July.

GAILLARDIA, BLANKET FLOWER (G. aristata, known also as G.
grandiflora). 3 ft. A very handsome perennial bearing showy yellow-
rayed flowers on long stems which cover the plant and remain long in
bloom; requires a rich moist soil; propagate by seeds and division of
the root.

GOLDEN GLOW (Rudbeckia laciniata pi. fl.). 4-6 ft. A very beauti-
ful variety recently introduced into the East and now commonly grown
everywhere. Bears many loose terminal clusters of large golden yellow
flowers resembling Dahlias. To keep the growth low pick back the
tips when the plants are about a foot high; or the plant may be cut
down when done blooming to get a second flowering. Grows in any
soil, but thrives best in rich moist ground; increases rapidly by division
of the root.

GOLDENROD (Solidago junced). 3 ft. One of the most beautiful
varieties of this native genus, bearing dense racemes of small golden-
yellow flowers that increase in size and become great plumy panicles.
Thrives wonderfully under cultivation. Propagate by seed or suckers.

HUNNEMANNIA. Tulip Poppy (H. fumariafolia) . 2 ft. An erect
perennial resembling Eschscholtzia with large single terminal yellow
flowers. It is said to be only half hardy in some places and it is well to
give it protection in winter. Sow seeds in Autumn or early spring.
Give a moist rich soil. It blooms from July to October.

HYPERICUM, see St. John's-Wort.

Yellow Flowers 239

IRIS. Japanese (/. lavigata, also known as /. Kcempferi, var.
Samidare and Bandai-nonami). Two yellow varieties of this choice
plant. For culture, see Iris, Jap., White Per., July.

LARKSPUR (Delphinium Zalil). 2 ft. A yellow variety with branch-
ing stem, dark green finely divided leaves, and large pale sulphur-
yellow flowers borne in long racemes on the branches from 8-16 in. long.
For culture, see Larkspur, White Per., July.

LILY. Batemanii (Lttium fulgens). 3 ft. A species with reddish
apricot flowers. It should be surrounded by white flowers, for its color
strikes a false note with most colors in the garden. For culture, see
Lily, White Per., July.

RUDBECKIA, see Black -Eyed Susan.

ST. JOHN'S-WORT. Common (Hypericum perforatum). 1-2 ft.
Makes a low spreading tuft of leafy stems, from which rise upright stems
bearing leafy cymes of large golden-yellow flowers. Spreads by runners.
Grows in poor soil and full sun; but is greatly improved if cultivated.
Blooms a second time, if cut back. For shrubby var. see Yellow Shrubs,
July and August.

ST. JOHN'S-WORT. Golden (Hypericum aureum). 2 ft. A showy
perennial with bright orange yellow flowers 2 in. across in loose ter-
minal clusters.

ST. JOHN'S-WORT. Great (Hypericum Ascryon). 2-5 ft. A strong
woody herb with showy flowers, but smaller than the first named va-
riety. St. John's-Wort was supposed to drive away evil spirits, and on
this account was planted near dwelling houses. Thrives in any soil
or situation, but prefers moisture and shade; does well when planted
under the drip of trees. Propagate by seeds and division of the root.
For other varieties see Yellow Shrubs, July and August.

SALVIA, FLOWERING SAGE (S. argenled). 2 ft. Has silvery white
foliage, yellow flowers, and is of prostrate growth. All Salvias should
have rich moist soil.

SNAPDRAGON (Antirrhinum majuSj var. Golden Queen). A fine yellow
dwarf variety, i ft. (A. var. Yellow) of the tall variety. 2$ ft. A tender
perennial, but hardy with me when mulched. For culture see Snap-
dragon, White Per., July.

SUNFLOWER. False, PITCHER'S OX-EYE (Heliopsis Icevis, var. Pit-
cheriana). 3-4 ft. A bushy plant, spreading 3 ft. Golden yellow cup-
shaped flowers 2 in. across. Give any good soil and sun. Propagate
by seed and division. Blooms three months.

240 Classified Lists

AUGUST

YELLOW SHRUBS

ST. JOHN'S-WORT. Shrubby (Hypericum patulum). 2 ft. A creep-
ing, shrubby variety, excellent for covering bare spots; flowers bright
yellow with a long season of bloom, from August to frost. Give a deep
rich soil. For other varieties see S. Yellow Shrubs, July.

AUGUST
YELLOW PERENNIALS

CANNA. Many hybrid varieties in yellow resulting from the crossing
of C. Ehemanni and C. glauca, both tall and dwarf; also dark-leaved
varieties. French Cannas are of compact dwarf growth; the Italian
grow from 5-6 ft., and are good for tropical effects. For culture see
Canna, White Per., August.

DAHLIA (D. variabilis). Many hybrid varieties in yellow in single
and double forms; also others known as Cactus and Pompon varieties.
Further south it blooms in August, but with me it comes early in Septem-
ber. Culture given under Dahlia, White Per., September.

GLADIOLUS (G. Lemoinei, hybridized from G. purpurea-auratus in
yellow varieties). 3 ft. For culture see Gladiolus, White Per., August.

HELEN FLOWER, SNEEZEWEED (Helenium autumnale superbum).
2-5 ft. One of our most beautiful autumn bloomers, with large terminal
clusters of bright yellow rayed flowers, petals drooping, with a tufted
yellow center. This plant is inclined to grow too tall, but by pinching
off the tips when about a foot high, it makes a branching top and bears
a greater abundance of flowers, though the bloom is a trifle later. It
thrives in any good soil, and spreads rapidly from the root. The best re-
sults come from resetting in the spring. There are other varieties, but
this is the best. August to October.

HELIANTHUS, see Sunflower.

HOLLYHOCK (Althea rosea, var. Yellow). 3-8 ft. A clear soft yellow
variety of this old favorite. For culture see Hollyhock, White Per.,
August.

MONTBRETIA (Tritonio, Potsii, var. grandiflora). 2-3 ft. An interest-
ing bulbous plant bearing spikes of lily-shaped flowers, an inch across,

Yellow Flowers 241

in pure yellow, yellow and orange, and yellow and red. Authorities say
it should be lifted each autumn and replanted in the spring; but mine
are hardy if planted in a warm sheltered position and well mulched.
Give a well-drained soil in a sunny location, also moisture. There is a
pink variety. See Pink Per., August.

SUNFLOWER (Helianthus decapetalus mulliflorus) . 3-6 ft. A very
choice variety of hardy Sunflower, bearing close heads of rayed yellow
flowers resembling the Dahlia, in groups of three on branching terminal
stems.

SUNFLOWER (H. latiflorus). 4-6 ft. Resembles the yellow Daisy
in its flower, and comes just after it in time of blooming, but is taller
and much handsomer. Spreads badly at the root.

SUNFLOWER (H. mollis grandiflorus). A cultivated form of H. mollis
with soft, woolly, whitish leaves and many small yellow-rayed flowers;
must have a moist soil as it suffers from drought.

SUNFLOWER. Slender or Graceful (Helianthus orgyalis). 6-10 ft.
A very tall, slender variety, not branching, with drooping lily-shaped
leaves, surmounted by clusters of pale yellow flowers. If nipped when
young, the plant will not grow so high, and it will induce a branching
growth. Excellent to plant among tall shrubs. Give a rich loam,
moisture and full sun.

For general culture give a rich soil, full sun and water during the
blooming season. Keep seed-vessels picked off to promote bloom.
Propagate by seed and division of the root which spreads freely.

TANSY (Tanacetum vulgar e, var. crispum). 4 ft. A handsome
variety with cut leaves, bearing many flat heads of pale yellow flowers.
Any good soil is suitable; increased by division of the root.

SEPTEMBER
YELLOW PERENNIALS

ARTICHOKE. Jerusalem (Helianthus tuberosa). 5-6 ft. Usually
grown for its root as a vegetable, but also can be used as a green back-
ground for lower plants. Bears flowers resembling the yellow Daisy.
It spreads rapidly in all directions from the root and should not be
planted where it cannot be controlled. Is good as a hedge. Give any
good soil; propagated by its running tubers.

242 Classified Lists

OCTOBER

YELLOW PERENNIALS

CHRYSANTHEMUM. Hardy (C. sinense). 3-4 ft. A very desirable
plant with handsome foliage, and heads of flowers resembling Asters.
To increase bloom pick back the top when about a foot high to make
the plant branch, which increases quantity, but reduces the size of the
flowers and somewhat retards the bloom. Give a rich, deep soil, plenty
of water and full sun. Propagate by division of the root which throws
out in the spring many offshoots when well established. By giving a
slight protection at night from frost the bloom may be prolonged until
hard freezing weather sets in. Also red and pink varieties. See Pink
and Red Per., October.

JUNE

YELLOW ANNUALS

BARTONIA (Mentzelia Lindleyi, known also as Bartonia aurea). 1-2 ft.
Bears golden yellow flowers with a metallic luster when the sun shines
upon them. It is seriously affected by drought, and does best when
grown in masses so that the ground is well covered with the leaves.
Give a rich moist soil. June to October.

BLANKET FLOWER, see Gaillardia.

CALENDULA, POT MARIGOLD (C. offkinalis). 1-2 ft. Many varieties
in creamy yellow, lemon and orange-rayed flowers, 3 in. across, growing
on long, stout stems. One of our most valuable annuals because of its
long season of bloom and also it endures the heat and drought of summer
better than most plants. Give a rich deep soil and moisture if possible;
keep seed-vessels picked back. Self-sowing. June to October.

CALIFORNIA POPPY (Eschscholtzia Calijornicd). i ft. A very hand-
some plant with finely cut foliage and large single yellow flowers several
inches across. Also a white and pink variety. For culture see Esch-
scholtzia, White An., June, and Pink An., June.

ESCHSCHOLTZIA, see California Poppy.

GAILLARDIA, BLANKET FLOWER (G. picta, var. Golden Gem). 2 ft.
A rich yellow variety of this free-blooming, showy annual. Also mixed
red and yellow varieties, but the tones of pure yellow and pure red

Yellow Flowers 243

(G. Amblydon) are much more desirable. Thrives in any good soil.
Sow seeds early as they are slow to germinate. June to October. See
Red. An., June.

NASTURTIUM. Dwarf (Tropaolum minor, var. Golden King), i ft.
A fine deep yellow variety of this useful plant. For culture see Nastur-
tium, White An., June.

POT MARIGOLD, see Calendula.

SWEET SULTAN (Centaur ea moschata, known also as C. suaveolens) .
i$ ft. A sweet-scented fringed clear yellow variety of Corn-flower; for
culture see Sweet Sultan, White An., June. June to September.

JULY

YELLOW ANNUALS

ABRONIA, SAND VERBENA (4. areneria). 6 in. A dwarf trailing
plant with showy Verbena-like heads of fragrant lemon-yellow flowers.
It is a half hardy perennial and under favorable conditions will survive
the winter when well mulched. Sow seeds in autumn in pots and set
in a cold frame; or sow in early spring. Peel off the papery husk of the
seed when sowing, else it will not germinate well. Also white and rose
varieties. July to October.

CANARY BIRD FLOWER (Tropaolum peregrinum, var. canariense).
A climbing variety of Nasturtium, with cut leaves and light yellow
flowers. For culture see Nasturtium, White An., July.

COREOPSIS, CALLIOPSIS, GOLDEN WAVE (C. Drummondii). 2 ft.
A free-flowering plant with blossoms that resemble French Marigolds
in that they have bright golden-rayed petals with a dark spot at the
base of each; borne on long stems. Give any good soil. Self-sowing.
July to October.

MARIGOLD. African (Tangetes erecta). 3 ft. Many single and double
and quilled varieties in lemon and orange-yellow. One of our sturdiest
plants, that thrive with little care in any soib Bears showy heads of
flowers. Give sun and moist rich soil and about eight inches of room
to a plant for the best growth.

MARIGOLD. French (Tangetes patula). i ft. A small single variety
with a dark marking about the center and finely cut leaves.

MARIGOLD. Single (Tangetes signatd). i ft. A low much-branched
variety with rays purple-spotted or striped with darker orange at the

244 Classified Lists

base of the petals. All require the same culture, and bloom from July
to October.

NASTURTIUM. Tall (Tropceolum ma jus, var. Nankeen Yellow).
8-10 ft. N. Lobbs (Tropceolum Lobbianum, var. aureum). 8 ft.
Dark-leaved and richer in bloom than the common tall varieties; also
the best for house culture. All the tall varieties bloom later than the
dwarf kinds. For culture see N. White An., June.

OXYURA (Layia Calliglossa, known to the trade as O. Chrysan-
themoides). 6 in. A low border plant with flowers having both the rays
and disk of a bright yellow. Any good garden soil.

PANSY. May be grown as an annual; for varieties see Yellow Per.,
April; for culture see Pansy, White Per., April. Spring sown seeds
bloom from July to October.

PHLOX (P. Drummondii, var. grandiflora) . Single and double
varieties in yellow. 1-2 ft. See Phlox, White An., July.

PORTULACA, ROSE Moss (P. grandiflora, var. Yellow). 6 in. Do not
sow seeds until June. See Portulaca, White An., July.

SNAPDRAGON (Antirrhinum majus, var. Yellow). 2 ft. Treated as
an annual sown in early spring it blooms from July to October. For
culture see Snapdragon, White Per., July. Also pink and red varieties.

STOCK. Ten weeks, GILLYFLOWER (Matthiola annua, var. Perpetual
Perfection). i| ft. A fine yellow variety of this choice plant. For
culture see White An., July. Also pink and red varieties.

SWEET-PEA (Lathyrus odoratus, var. Queen Victoria and Mrs. Eck-
ford). 4 ft. Two yellow varieties that can be trusted. For culture see
Sweet- Pea, White An., July.

AUGUST

YELLOW ANNUALS

COCKSCOMB (Celosia cristata, dwarf var. Golden Yellow; also Light
Yellow). 9 in. The common form which is showy in color and the
flowers resemble a cock's comb. Has no delicacy nor grace.

COCKSCOMB (Celosia plumosa, var. Yellow), ij ft. A very different
growth from the above, the bloom consisting of long feathery plumes.
To secure the largest blooms from Celosia transplant three or four times.
Give any good soil and sun. August to September. Red variety see
Red An., August.

Yellow Flowers 245

DATIUA, TRUMPET FLOWER (D. Meteloides, var. Yellow). 2% ft.
For description and culture see Datura, White An., July.

ERYSIMUM PEROFSKINANUM. i ft. Bears a quantity of deep reddish-
orange flowers resembling Wallflowers. Give a rich sandy loam.
Sow seeds in September for spring flowering. One of our choicest
hardy annuals.

HELIANTHUS, see Sunflower.

LASTHENIA (L. glabrata, known to the trade as L. Calif arnica), i ft.
A slightly downy plant with bright yellow flowers borne on branching
stems. This, as well as the plant following, are good for edging a border.
Give any good soil and sun.

LIMNANTHES (L. Douglasii). 6 in. A sweet-scented annual with
pale yellow flowers merging into white at the edge of the rayed petals,
and black stamens, which give a striking appearance. It has a spread-
ing habit; give a good moist soil and sun. August to September.

SALPIGLOSSIS (S. sinuata, var. grandiflora). 2 ft. Bears deep funnel-
shaped flowers in pale straw color, delicately veined with red or purple,
borne either solitary or in small clusters at the end of branching stems.
Give a sandy loam, and partially shaded location, for if the stem and
root are exposed to the hot sun, it is apt to wither and die off suddenly.
Frequent transplanting tends to make the plant bushy. For summer
flowering sow seeds in early spring; for spring bloom, sow seeds in
autumn. Also pink and red varieties.

PODOLEPIS (P. aristata\ known also as P. chrysantha). i ft. Has
golden-yellow flowers with pink ray florets. It is very handsome
for pot culture. Sow in May and transplant i ft. apart; give a
rich soil.

SCABIOUS. Sweet (Scabiosa atropurpurea, var. Golden Yellow}.
i£ ft. A very beautiful variety of this attractive flower. For culture
see Scabious, White An., August.

SUNFLOWER (Helianthus annuus). 3-8 ft. Many varieties with
huge single terminal flowers often a foot or more across; others branch-
ing with many small blooms both double and single. Give any good soil
or situation, provided plenty of space is given each plant.

THUNBERGIA (T. alata, var. auranticd). 5 ft. A smooth climber
bearing a curious flat flower with deep yellow corolla, a dark eye and
tube turned inward. If the long shoots are pegged down over a bed
they will send up innumerable flower stalks and cover the bed with
bloom. Give a rich soil well drained and mixed with sand and plenty

246 Classified Lists

^

of water, as the plant will perish if kept too dry. Excellent as a house
plant. August and September.

ZINNIA (Z. elegans, many hybrid varieties). 2-4 ft. The usual tall
curled and crested varieties in pure deep yellow; valuable for its wealth
of bloom after many other plants are gone.

ZINNIA (Z. angustifolia, known also as Z. aurea). 8 in. A dwarf
variety from Mexico, sometimes called Z. Mexicana pi. ft. A plant
covered with small bright yellow flowers, the petals drooping and over-
laying each other like a thatched roof. For culture, see Zinnia, White
An., August. Also pink and red varieties.

PINK FLOWERS

APRIL
PINK SHRUBS— None in my climate

MAY
PINK PERENNIALS

HYACINTH (Hyacinthus orientates, var. Maria Cornelia [single]);
H. var. Lord Wellington (double). For culture, see Hyacinth, White
Per., April.

SCILLA (S. nutans, var. rosed}, i ft. Leaves form a tuft with 6-12
drooping pink flowers borne on a raceme. Give any good well-drained
soil; plant in autumn and mulch during the winter. Propagated by
offsets. April to June. Have not been successful with this.

MAY
PINK SHRUBS

ALMOND. Flowering (Prunus Japonica pi. ft., var. rosed). 4-6 ft.
A rosy pink variety of this charming shrub. For culture and descrip-
tion, see Almond, White Per., May.

ANDROMEDA, WILD ROSEMARY (A perijolid). 15 in. Bears small
pinkish- white drooping flowers in terminal umbels; margins of the
narrow evergreen leaves turn under. It should be given a low wet
situation; if on dry ground it becomes dwarf* Propagate by sowing
seeds as soon as ripe or by pegging down the branches, covering the
joint with soil, and they will root enough to separate in a year.

AZALEA (A. vaseyi). 6-8 ft. Bears deep pink flowers before the
leaves appear. None of the so-called hardy Azaleas have survived the
winter with me. Give a deep, rich sandy well-drained loam, but it must
never be allowed to become too dry. Azaleas thrive best in partial shade.

247

248 Classified Lists

CRAB-APPLE. Japanese Flowering (Pyrus floribunda [single] and
Pyrus floribunda, var. Parkmanii [double variety]). 10 ft. A bush or
small tree with drooping branches, bearing sharply-toothed leaves and
handsome red flower buds that are flesh colored or rosy pink when
opened. Thrives best in an open airy situation apart from other trees.
Rather subject to caterpillars during the leafing and flowering season.
Give any good soil. Propagate by seeds or grafting on wild Crab, Pear
or the Hawthorn.

HONEYSUCKLE. Bush, or Upright (Lonicera jragrantissima). 3-8 ft.
A fragrant bush form of Honeysuckle, bearing white, also pink flowers
in numerous clusters, followed by brilliant scarlet berries; blooms on
wood of previous year's growth, therefore prune just after flowering.
All young shoots should be cut back to induce a bushy growth. Propa-
gated by layering or cuttings; give any good soil. May and June.

HONEYSUCKLE. Tartarian (Lonicera Tartaricd). 3-6 ft. Shrub of
slender elegant growth, and when properly trimmed makes an open
bush; flowers abundant and beautiful, of pale pink turning to yellow.
Fruit ripens in August and becomes a bright red berry that gives color
to the bush until frost.

LILAC (Syringa, hybrid budded varieties, Virginite and Clair Cochef).
Both handsome pink varieties, that, like all budded Lilacs, are apt to
revert to the old stock upon which they are budded. It forms flower
buds for the next season during the summer, so all seed-vessels must be
removed promptly after flowering. For culture, see Lilac, White Per.,
May.

PEACH. Japanese (Prunus Persica, var. rosea plena). 4-6 ft. A
new form of this shrub much prized in Japan. It makes a full bushy
growth, bears narrow pointed leaves like the common Peach and quan-
tities of small handsome rosette flowers both in pink and deep red.
Prune the new growth in the summer, and head in the old so as to har-
den the wood before winter. Give a rich soil, but no manure near the
roots. A heavy mulch of wood ashes tends to harden the wood so that it
withstands our severe winters; entirely hardy with me. Very choice
indeed.

PINXTER FLOWER (Rhododendron nudiflora). 2 ft. Bears rosy-
purple or lilac flowers resembling the Azalea, before the leaves appear.
Requires rich moist soil and full sun. It is propagated by running root
stocks, and may be increased by cutting close to the ground to throw the
vitality into new growths, which may be reset in spring while dormant.

Pink Flowers 249

PLUM. Double Flowering, Japanese (Prunus Iriflora, sometimes
called P. trilobd). A very handsome shrub or small tree bearing pink
flowers resembling pink roses; leaves finely serrated; fruit pointed, with
firm flesh and a small stone. Culture the same as Crab-Apple.

RHODORA (R. Canadensis) . 1-2 ft. A low shrub, native to cold wet
ground with handsome rose-pink or purplish-pink flowers that appear
in clusters before the pale, rather hairy leaves. Culture the same as
Pinxter Flower to which it is allied. Transplant in spring.

ROSEMARY. Wild, see Andromeda.

MAY
PINK PERENNIALS

^ETHIONEMA (A. grandi flora), ij ft. Makes a spreading bush bear-
ing pink flowers in crowded racemes. Requires full sun and lime in the
soil. Propagated by seeds and cuttings. May to August.

AQUILEGIA, see Columbine.

BLEEDING HEART (Dicentra spectabUis). 2 ft. Has very handsome
foliage and curved terminal racemes of pink flowers with two blunt
spurs. Give a rich deep soil, moisture, full sun and space to spread
itself. Propagated by dividing crowns early in spring or cutting the
fleshy roots in short lengths and starting them in sandy soil.

CAMPION. Alpine (Lychnis alpina). i ft. Lower leaves form a
tuft from which rise close pink heads of pink flowers £ in. across, borne
on stems from 6 in. to i ft. high. Give full sun and rich soil. Propagate
by seeds or division of the root.

COLUMBINE (Aquilegia vulgaris, var. rosea). 2-3 ft. The Colum-
bine comes in the loveliest tones of palest rose, salmon pink, deep pink,
old rose and rose spurs with white crown, but it is impossible to secure
these with any exactness from seed, owing to the cross-fertilizing by
insects. Division of the root, or covering the plant during the flower-
ing season is the only way to perpetuate the stock. For culture, see
Columbine, White Per., May.

DICENTRA, see Bleeding Heart.

EREMURUS (E. robustus). 8 ft. Leaves 4 in. wide make a huge
tufted rosette several feet across, from which rises a tall scape from
4-8 ft. high ending in a terminal raceme of handsome peach-colored
flowers resembling the Hyacinth. It dies to the ground after blooming,

250 Classified Lists

and the place should be marked lest it be disturbed by accident. It
must have a deep well-drained soil, full sun and moisture during the
blooming season, and much space. The roots are large, brittle and
difficult to pack, and as the seeds take a year to germinate and several
years to develop to the point of blooming, plants are very costly. If
you are young and enthusiastic try raising it from the seed. After
several years experiment I have four young plants out of nineteen, hav-
ing lost several vintages through the brown cutworm. In four years
more I may see bloom.

FORGET-ME-NOT (Myosotis alpestris, var. roseus). i ft. A lovely pale
pink variety with small yellow eye, fragrant in the evening. For cul-
ture, see Forget-me-not, White Per., May.

IRIS. German (Iris Germanica, var. Queen o] the May}. A lilac
pink variety, see White Per., May.

LYCHNIS. Alpine, see Campion. Alpine.

LYCHNIS. Early, Red L. (L. dioica, var. rosea). 2 ft. (A form of
L. diurna.) This is a flower native to some parts of New England, but
under cultivation is one of my most desirable plants, making a spread-
ing bushy growth and the whole plant is covered with pale rose-pink
flowers an inch across borne in branching panicles. I have three va-
rieties of this; one, with broad green leaves and red woolly calyx and
rather small reddish pink flowers, is the least desirable; another with
narrower bright green leaves, somewhat rough, makes a splendid show-
ing; another with darker smooth green leaves and reddish stem is not
so good, though all are worth planting. Give a rich deep soil, full sun,
and water during the flowering season. By free cutting the bloom is
prolonged through the entire summer.

MOSS-PINK, CREEPING PINK (Phlox sublata). 4 in. A very desir-
able border or bedding plant literally covered with rose-pink flow-
ers. For description and culture, see Phlox, Creeping, White Per.,
May.

PHLOX SUBLATA. Creeping Phlox, see Moss-Pink.

POPPY. Alpine (Papaver alpinum, var. Pink), i ft. A pink variety
blooming from May to August. For culture, see Poppy. A Yellow
Per., May.

TULIP (Tulipa suaveolens, var. Rose Luisante and Rose Aplati [single])
Couronne des Roses (Double) represent a few pink varieties. For cul-
ture, see Tulip, White Per., May.

Pink Flowers 251

JUNE
PINK SHRUBS

ACACIA. Rose (Robinia hispida). 5 ft. A dwarf shrub with droop-
ing branches, smooth leaves tipped with a bristle, and thorny stem,
drooping rose-pink pea-shaped flowers with a deeper red woolly calyx,
borne in loose axillary racemes. Should have a position sheltered from
the wind as the wood is brittle and the limbs are easily broken, give full
sun, rich soil and moisture. Propagated by layering.

AZALEA. Tree (A. arborescens). 4ft. A handsome pale rose-pink
variety; called hardy, but not so with me. Propagate by layering, but
the branch must not be severed for two years. For culture, see Azalea,
White Per., May.

DEUTZIA (D. Lemoinei). 3-4 ft. A pink variety with double flowers.
See D. White Shrubs, June.

DIERVILLA, WEIGELIA (D. florida, also known as D. rosed). 6 ft. A
graceful shrub spreading by suckers from the root, bearing abundant
rosy flowers in axillary and terminal clusters. Give a rich moist soil
and shaded position. Propagated by suckers.

JAPANESE ROSE, see Rugosa Rose.

PEACH. Blood-leaved (Prunus Persicd). A showy variety with
blood-red foliage in spring, becoming purple in summer.

ROSE. The perfect lily should be white and fragrant, so the perfect
rose should be large, shell pink and fragrant. The following list is not
exhaustive or even general, but it comprises the pink roses I have grown
and find hardy in my small garden.

ROSE. Baroness Rothschild — a cross between the Damask Rose and
Rosa Indica, a Hybrid Perpetual of stocky growth, large globular
flowers, pale pink and scentless. If given cultivation during the bloom-
ing season (June) and pruned slightly in July, it will yield some autumn
bloom.

ROSE. Cabbage, Provence (Rosa centijolia).* One of the best and
commonest varieties grown. Bears large fragrant very double pink
flowers with incurving petals, on slender stalks, which produce a grace-
ful nodding effect. Requires a richly manured soil and open situation.

ROSE. Cinnamon (Rosa cinnamonea). 4-6 ft. A most vigorous
variety inclined to run wild, with quantities of pale rose-pink flowers
3 in. across, borne along drooping stems. Very beautiful when in per-

252 Classified Lists

fection, but does not last at best over ten days, and is inclined to blight
in the bud; has a spicy fragrance; spreads badly from suckers and
should not be planted where it cannot be kept under control. Is par-
ticularly good against higher shrubbery, or on the lawn for distant ef-
fects; has fine autumn foliage of orange and coppery red.

ROSE. Dorothy Perkins. 4-10 ft. A climber, a cross between R.
Wichuriana and Gabriel Luizet (R. Indica) ; one of the most beautiful
varieties grown, with many clusters of shell-pink flowers 2 in. across
borne at the ends of the branches. It makes an enormous growth which
should be headed in to induce lateral growths that will bear the follow-
ing year. Blooms only in June and is scentless.

ROSE. Early Wild (Rosa blanda). 1-3 ft. A low native rose with
pale green foliage, hoary beneath, bearing clusters of 1-3 pale pink
flowers resembling, but much larger than, the Sweetbrier. Spreads
gradually from the root.

ROSE. Gabriel Luizet. A Hybrid Perpetual; free bloomer with light
silvery-pink fragrant flowers; hardy vigorous growth; one of the best.

ROSE. La France. One of the best hybrid Teas, beautiful in bud
and in full flower; of shell pink shading off at the edges to a silvery
rose. Very free bloomer, every shoot bearing a flower; fragrant.
Though hardy, it is well to give it, as well as all Hybrid Teas, a shel-
tered position, and well mulched roots in winter and deep covering of
leaves.

ROSE. Magna Charta. Hybrid Perpetual. Makes a vigorous up-
right growth with bright healthy foliage; bears large full bright pink
fragrant flowers in June. Do not prune too closely for it runs to foliage
instead of bloom.

ROSE. Mrs. John Laing. Hybrid Perpetual. Of vigorous growth,
bearing terminal clusters of three beautifully soft pink roses of fine form.
Fragrant. A well-established favorite variety. Blooms again in au-
tumn if pruned about one-half in July.

ROSE. Paul Neyron. Is the largest flowered rose in cultivation; a
prolific bloomer of clear deep rose, the flowers are sometimes 6 in. in
diameter. Makes a vigorous growth, and if vigorously pruned in July,
will bloom again in autumn.

ROSE. Queen of the Prairie. A hybrid form of Rosa setigera. A
vigorous free-growing climbing rose, throwing out many long lateral
branches; bears small clusters of double deep rose flowers. Very hardy;
blooms toward the end of June; not fragrant.

Pink Flowers 253

ROSE. Mrs. R. G. Sharman-Crawford. A hybrid Perpetual almost
always in bloom and one of the best roses grown; bears deep shell-pink
flowers the outer petals shading into flesh color; of vigorous growth.

ROSE. Rugosa (Rosa rugosa, var. Conrad F. Meyer). Very large
fragrant double flowers of clear silvery pink, the buds resemble La
France. A choice variety. The Rugosas spread badly at the root and
must be kept under control.

ROSE. Sweetbrier, Eglantine (Rosa rubiginosa). A rose inclined to
climb. I have had them run 8-9 ft. in a season, but they are often
winter-killed unless in sheltered positions. To promote bloom keep
pruned back to 4-5 ft. Foliage very fragrant, the small clear pink
flowers numerous, single, with petals curving inward at the margin,
handsome seed-vessels in autumn. Easily propagated by seed which
self -sows; also spreads slightly at the root.

ROSE (R. Wichuriana, var. Universal Favorite). A vigorous trailing
rose suitable for covering banks, stone walls and trellises. Bright green
glossy foliage and small double fragrant light pink flowers. Hardy and
very good, but not so beautiful as Dorothy Perkins. For Rose culture,
see Rose, White Per., June.

TAMARISK. African (Tamarix Africana or T. tetranda). Earliest
hardy species with bright pink flowers borne in great profusion along
the slender branches of the previous season's wood, in lovely contrast
with the soft feathery foliage. Prune severely when the flowering season
is over, as the long stems become bare, and both flowers and leaves
spring from new wood only. For later variety see Pink Shrubs, August.

JUNE

PINK PERENNIALS

ALLEGHENY VINE, MOUNTAIN FRINGE (Adlumia cirrhosa). 10 ft.
A biennial climber of the most delicate beauty. The first year it makes
a low spreading growth of tender green leaves that resembles Maiden-
hair Fern. This dies down and the second year the plant begins to run
as a vine, with smaller leaves and it bears numerous axillary racemes of
small flesh -colored flowers. Very desirable and hardy. When once
established it is self -sowing, and then becomes practically a perennial.
Give a rich moist soil in a sheltered spot, with the roots shaded from
the sun, and it will festoon an arbor in a few weeks.

254 Classified Lists

ARMERIA, THRIFT (A elongata formosa—also known as A. cepJmlo-
tis). 1 1 ft. Makes a dense low tuft of leaves and close solitary heads of
pink flowers. Give full sun and any good soil not too wet. Propagate
by sowing seeds as soon as ripe, for the roots do not divide well.

ARMERIA (Armeria vulgaris, A. elongata"). Is often used as an edging
instead of Box, as the seeds come up with much certainty, and it makes
a close thick border. This variety is propagated by division of root
also.

ARMERIA. Plantain-leaved (A. plantaginea) . 9 in. Bright rose-
colored flowers in close heads on stems a foot or less high. Propagate
by dividing roots into separate pieces and plant the pieces as you would
cuttings in sandy soil under glass until well rooted.

BOWMAN'S ROOT (Gittenia trifoliata). 18 in. A bushy plant with
red stems and pink or white flowers resembling Spirea. Foliage
divided. Give partial shade, any soil. Plant with Lilies or Japanese
Iris. Propagate by seed or division.

CALYSTEGIA, JAPANESE ROSE (C. pubescens pi. fl.). Known also as
Convolvulus Japonica and Calystegia Calif ornicus. 3-4 ft. A twining
vine with halbert-shaped leaves and beautiful pale rose-colored flowers
resembling small roses. It has a bad habit of spreading from the root,
and should be planted where it will not encroach on other plants; or it
should have a tub to itself. Any portion of the slender white root buried
will grow.

CATCHFLY. Autumn (Silene Shafta). 6 in. A low variety of C. bear-
ing pink flowers, the stem becoming gradually covered with blossoms.
Give any good soil and propagate by division of root, seeds or cuttings.
Also annual varieties in pink; see Catchfly, Pink An., July.

CLEMATIS (C. coccinea, var. Duchess of Albany, and C. Jackmannij
var. Mme. Bacon Veillard). Two beautiful varieties of this showy
flower. The Clematis is a gross feeder and needs manure both above
and below ground and liquid manure during the blooming season. If
raised from seed, save until spring and sow in sandy soil under glass;
plant out and they will soon flower. Propagated also by cuttings, layer-
ing and by grafting scions on healthy roots. To aid layers in rooting,
scrape the bark slightly before covering with earth.

CONVOLVULUS JAPONICA, see Calystegia.

CRUCIANELLA, CROSSWORT (C. Stylosa). i ft. An attractive low
border plant which throws out numerous spreading stems bearing
whorled leaves and terminal heads of small delicately-formed pink

Pink Flowers 255

flowers. Give any good soil and propagate by seeds, or division of the
root in spring or autumn. June to September.

DIANTHUS, see Pink.

FOXGLOVE (Digitalis purpurea, var. gloxina flora) . 3-4 ft. A pale
pink variety with white throat spotted with red. It is much more beau-
tiful in color than the common purplish-red Foxglove. Give a rich soil,
sun and water during the blooming season. Cut back the plant
when done blooming to induce a later crop of flowers. Increased
by seed. I do not recommend the planting of offshoots formed at
the root, for such plants are not so vigorous as new seedlings. Self-
sowing.

GILLENIA, see Bowman's Root.

HELIANTHEMUM, see Sun Rose.

INCARVILLEA, HARDY GLOXINIA (7. Ddavayi). 2 ft. A showy plant
with coarse pinnate radical leaves which grow two feet long, and bears
several terminal clusters of handsome large tubular deep rose-colored
flowers. The root is tuberous and suffers from drought. Give a deep
rich well-drained soil, partial shade. Propagate by seed and careful
division of the root. Leaves die down in summer.

LUPINE (Lupinus polyphyllus, var. roseus). 3 ft. A pink variety of
this strikingly beautiful plant. For culture, see Lupine, White Per.,
June. Also blue and yellow varieties.

LUPINE (L. Douglasii). 3 ft. A new variety which is a cross between
the annual and perennial Lupines, blooming the first season from seed,
if planted early. Also blue and white varieties.

LYCHNIS. Viscid (L. viscaria splendent). 3 ft. Makes a low broad
tuft of narrow leaves and sends up several reddish stalks clammy or
sticky at the joints, bearing showy heads of rose-pink flowers. Give
any good soil. It is self-sowing and is best propagated by seeds. The
young seedlings so closely resemble the common weed sorrel that one
must not mistake them when weeding.

MOUNTAIN FRINGE, see Allegheny Vine.

PEONY (P&onia, oflicinalis, var. rosea). A very early variety.

PEONY (P. albaflora, var. fragrantissima). }A very fragrant kind.
(P. var. King of Roses}.

PEONY (P. var. Humeii rosea). The latest to bloom; these are but
a few of many hybrid varieties in pink, single and double, some fra-
grant, some scentless. Give a deep rich soil, top-dress and water in
summer while growth is being made. While roots can be and are di-

258 Classified Lists

pale pink satiny fringed flowers 2-3 in. across, in terminal clusters.
Give a deep rich soil and sun. Propagate by seed or division. Blooms
for two months.

SILENE SHAFTA, see Catchfly. Autumn.

SUN ROSE (Helianthemum mutabile). 6 in. A pleasing little plant
with evergreen leaves and slightly woody stems, bearing a profusion of
pink flowers that open only in the bright sun. No value for cutting.
Racemes are nodding before the flowers open, but erect themselves.
Give a hot dry soil, and propagate by seeds or cuttings in a sandy soil
kept shaded.

SWEET-WILLIAM (Dianthus barbatus, var. Pale Pink.}, i ft. This
variety is not so tall as some of the red ones, but it bears enormous heads
of showy pink flowers. To propagate any given color, give the plant
special attention to induce new growths at the root, which can be di-
vided the following spring. For brilliant new colors sow fresh seed an-
nually and select stock when it blooms and transplant into its place ac-
cording to color.

TUNICA (T. saxifragd). 8 in. A dainty little plant with small leaves,
slender diffuse stems and tiny open bell-shaped pink flowers resembling
the annual Gypsophila. Easily raised from seed, or increased by divi-
sion of root. Give any good soil.

THRIFT, see Armeria plantaginea.

VALERIAN, JUPITER'S BEARD (Centranthus ruler, var. Pink). 2 ft.
An erect plant with smooth deeply-veined leaves and dense terminal
cymes of long-tubed flowers; also coral red and white varieties. For
culture see Valerian, White Per., June.

VERBASCUM (V. Blattaria). A pink variety, see V., Blue Per., June.

VERBENA (V. montana). i ft. A purplish-rose variety, of Verbena,
said to be hardy, but does not survive the winter in my garden. I grow
it as an annual which blooms in September. It makes a vigorous erect
growth and is a free bloomer, but not to be relied upon as hardy.

JULY

PINK SHRUBS

LAUREL. Mountain, (Kalmia latifolia). 4 ft. A native evergreen
shrub of great beauty with shining green leaves, arranged in a rosette
beneath large clusters of showy rose-pink flowers. It is difficult to trans-

Pink Flowers 259

plant; for, in its native haunts, it grows among stones buried in the leaf
mold of oak forests, and its roots run far and are hard to secure. It is
well worth cultivating; needs deep rich soil composed of three parts leaf
mold and one part common loam; give partial shade. Can be propa-
gated by seeds and cuttings.

LAUREL. Sheep (Kalmia angustifolia) . 2-3 ft. A low native variety
with narrow leaves, slender erect growth, bearing a terminal head of deep
pink flowers. Thrives in sun or shade, and in any soil.

MEADOW-SWEET, see Spirea salicifolia.

RHODODENDRON. Great (R. maximum). 6-10 ft. This species is
also native in restricted localities, and the only one that is hardy with-
out protection in my vicinity. It bears great evergreen drooping leaves,
and clusters of pale pink flowers with greenish throats. In its native
place it grows in deep mold on shaded rocky ledges where water drips.
Give a similar location if possible; prepare beds two feet deep, preparing
the soil with chopped turf, rich compost, leaf mold and good garden
loam mixed. The roots do not penetrate far, and the ground should be
made porous; plant in spring; chalk or lime in the soil is very injurious
to it.

SPIREA, COMMON MEADOW-SWEET (Spirea salidjolia). 3 ft. A
native shrub making a bushy growth, with smooth serrated leaves and
crowded panicles of pale pink flowers. It is self -sowing and also spreads
from the root. Give any good soil and sun. It is a favorite diet of the
rose-bug and should be carefully watched during June and July when
trying to rid the garden of this pest.

SPIREA (S. Japonica, known also as S. callosa, var. superba). 4-6 ft.
Makes a very vigorous large bush, branches terminated by long pointed
clusters of deep pink flowers. Much resembles S. salicifolia but is
larger, handsomer and of deeper color.

JULY

PINK PERENNIALS

CANNA (C. Ehemanni [Crozy]), var. Mile. Berat and Salmon Queen.
Two pink varieties of this tender perennial. For culture see Canna,
White Per., July.

CANTERBURY BELL (Campanula medium in single and double va-
rieties; also C. var. calycanthema. Cup and Saucer variety). This de-

260 Classified Lists

lightful plant comes in lovely tones of pale rose pink and shell pink. For
culture see C. Bells, White Per., July.

CENTAURY, see Sabbatia.

CHELONE, TURTLE HEAD (C. Lyoni) . 2 ft. A plant allied to the Pent-
stemon, stem much-branched, bearing terminal clusters of purplish-pink
flowers with lower lip bearded. Give a light rich soil. Propagate by
seeds, cuttings and division of the root if done in August or September.
If divided in spring the plants suffer.

CORONILLA, see Crown Vetch.

CROWN VETCH (Coronitta varid). 1} ft. A hardy herb with smooth
pinnate leaves, purplish-pink flowers borne in clusters of 16-20 in the
axils of the leaves. Pinch in the plants to induce a bushy growth. Give
a rich soil of mixed loam, leaf mold and manure. Propagate by suckers
from roots, or seeds planted as soon as ripe. Choice.

GERARDIA. Hybrid variety probably derived from G. tenufolia. Said
to be a half hardy perennial, but it survives the winter with me; leaves
narrow, light green, stem much-branched, large tubular rose-colored
flowers i£ in. long. Give a sheltered position in light rich soil. Native
Gerardias are difficult to transplant for they depend upon a certain
parasitic growth only found in pine barrens. Propagated best therefore
by seeds.

HOLLYHOCK (Althea rosed). 4-8 ft. Single and semi -double varie-
ties. From a little paper of seeds of single pink hollyhock given me sev-
eral years ago I have raised innumerable varieties in pink and cardinal
red. The most beautiful was a pure shell pink, large and single with a
little tuft of curled abortive petals about the center. For culture see
Hollyhock, White Per., Aug.

DICTAMNUS, FRAXINELLA (Dictamnus albus, var. rosed) . A pink vari-
ety not as pretty as the white. See White Per., July.

IRIS. Japanese (7. lavigata [7. Kcempferi} var. Dick Webb}. A rose
variety with a yellow band at the base of petals.

IRIS (7. var. Mrs. D. E. Richardson). Double rose shading to white,
with white center. For culture see Iris. Jap. White Per., July.

MALLOW. Tall (Malva sylvestris) . 2% ft. A branching herb bearing*
sharply divided leaves and racemes of single and clustered pale pink
flowers 2 in. across. Very showy. Propagated easily from seed.
Thrives in any soil or situation; often escapes to the roadsides.

MALLOW. Hollyhock (Malva diced). Said to grow 3 ft., but mine
grows eight feet unless pinched back two or three times each season. It

Pink Flowers 261

makes a tremendous bushy growth in rich soil; leaves much divided,
scattered flowers pink i in. across. Propagated by seeds and division
of the root. Of small beauty and almost impossible to uproot.

MALLOW. MUSK (Malva moschatd). 2 ft. A beautiful variety with
pale rose-colored flowers having a faint musk odor. For descrip-
tion and culture see Mallow, Musk, White Per., July also a white
variety.

MILFOIL. Rosy (Achillea milk folium roseum). 1-3 ft. A variety
little known here but much prized in English gardens. Foliage much di-
vided and fern -like; flowers borne on tall stems in flat heads of a deep
rose color. Will thrive in any soil or situation and is propagated by seed
or division of the root. July to Oct. In warmer climates from May to
Oct.

OBEDIENT PLANT (Physostegia Virginiana). 2 ft. Already described
under Blue Per. as a rosy lilac, but at times it is almost a pure pale pink.
For culture see Obedient Plant, White Per., July.

ONONIS ROTUNDIFOLIA, see Rest Harrow.

PEA. Perennial (Lathyrus latifolius, var. Pink Beauty). 5 ft. A
most desirable and vigorous plant, little cultivated in this country, but
has several choice varieties white, white and pale pink, deep rose pink
and red. Propagated by seeds which are self-sowing, or by careful di-
vision of the root in Spring. Blooms all summer. For cultivation see
Pea. Per. White Per., July.

PENTSTEMON (P. campanulatus, var. roseus}. 1-2 ft. This plant
varies in cultivation from reddish purple to rose color and bears showy-
lipped flowers in a one-sided cluster. While not difficult to cultivate,
the Pentstemon suffers from wet more than cold during winter, and it
should be planted in a well-drained location in a mixture of sand and
rich loam. Propagated by seeds, cuttings or division of the root.

PHYSOSTEGIA, see Obedient Plant.

QUEEN OF THE PRAIRIE (Spirea lobata; known also as S. venuista
and Ulmaria rubra venuista). 2-5 ft. One of our most beautiful
perennials. Bears enormous pinnate leaves and a^loose branching pan-
icle of pink flowers. It spreads readily from the root if given a deep
rich soil, and is most effective when grown in masses. I once made the
mistake of cutting away some of the coarse foliage in the spring to make
room for other perennials, and in doing so cut the leaves from which
spring the flower stalks, and thereby lost almost the entire bloom for
that season. All the Spireas grow best in moist soil and present a poor

262 Classified Lists

stunted appearance if given soil that is dry or gravelly. Propagate by
division of root in early spring.

REST HARROW (Ononis rotundijolia}. 1-2 ft. A very handsome and
desirable plant making a somewhat bushy growth, and bears three-
flowered clusters of pink pea-shaped flowers. Give a mixed soil of rich
loam and sand. Propagate by seed and division of root.

SABBATIA. Centaury (Sabbatia chloroides, known also as S. campes-
tris). i ft. A biennial resembling the annual Agrostemma ccdi-rosa.
Stems branched and one-flowered; flowers bright pink, very handsome
i £-2 in. across; most of the Sabbatias grow naturally along sandy ponds
and in low wet ground along the coast; this one prefers dry light soil.
Sow seeds either in spring or autumn. I have never been able to raise
this plant though I have tried for many seasons, and as it is only a
biennial at best, I content myself with A. ccdi-rosa.

AUGUST
PINK SHRUBS

STEEPLEBUSH, HARDBACK (Spirea tomentosd). 2-3 ft. A native va-
riety with small serrate leaves, hoary beneath, and turning a beautiful
orange and red in the autumn. The deep pink flowers are borne in a
dense pointed panicle. Worthy of cultivation, for it comes when most
shrubs are past their bloom and the flame-colored foliage is as lovely
as a flower in late autumn.

TAMARISK. Late Flowering (Tamarix Indica). 6-8 ft. This later
variety of Tamarisk must have special treatment, as it blooms on the
wood of the same season's growth, so must be cut back closely in late
autumn or early spring, when it will send forth long slender branches
with soft fine foliage and a profusion of pink flowers through August
and September. In foliage and blossom this variety and T. tetranda
are alike, though each requires a different treatment. If T. Indica is not
cut back it makes another growth of 6-8 ft., leaving the long bare stems
of the old wood at the end of which begins the new growth. Both
varieties may be grown by the sea shore, and are not affected by
wind or salt spray unless in excess. See T. tetranda. Pink Shrubs,
June.

Pink Flowers 263

AUGUST
PINK PERENNIALS

BOUNCING BET, SOAPWORT (Saponaria officinalis). 2 ft. A plant
once cultivated but now largely run wild in New England. When wild
the bloom is rather a dirty white, but under cultivation it bears clusters
of large pale rose-pink double flowers. Its deep red fleshy rootstocks
run badly and it should not be planted where it can interfere with other
plants. Give any good soil and a sunny location. It repays well for
good care, and is very effective planted with lilac Peony Poppies.

CANNA. A later variety, Paid Mar quant, blooms in August; salmon
color. For culture, see Canna, White Per., July.

CRAPE MYRTLE (Lagerstroemia Indica). 2-4 ft. A shrub with
smooth shining leaves, deep red stems and panicles of showy rose-pink
or flesh-colored flowers, remarkable for the crisped petals and silky
tufted stamens. Hardy only as far north as Washington. I brought
mine from Florida and keep it in a large tub, wintering it in the cellar,
and it thrives well. Turns a brilliant red in autumn.

CYCLAMEN. Autumn-flowering, Sowbread (C. Europtzum). A hardy
form of Cyclamen with a tuberous root, thick heart-shaped leaves
marked with crimson and violet beneath, and bright rose-colored very
fragrant flowers. It requires an open airy situation and a rich soil of
mixed loam, manure, sand and leaf mold. Bears seeds freely and can
be thus propagated.

DAHLIA (D. varidbilis, var. Nymphea and A. D. Livoni). 5 ft. Both
pure pink varieties of great beauty. While not hardy perennials the
roots may be stored with other tuberous rooted plants, and be planted
out in May. For culture, see D. White Per., September.

EUPATORIUM, JOE-PYE WEED (E, purpureum). 3-8 ft. Downy
leaves large and borne in a whorl. Large purplish-rose flowers in
corymbs from 5-9 flowered. A native to low wet grounds and salt
marshes. Should be given a moist rich soil and sun.

GLADIOLUS (G. var. Childsii and Lemoine). In beautiful tones of
pale and deeper pink with lavender stamens. See G. White Per., Au-
gust.

HIBISCUS. ROSE MALLOW (H. moscheutos, var. roseus). 3-4 ft. A
handsome pink variety with large pink flowers from 4-6 in. broad with
or without a dark center. For culture, see Hibiscus, White Per., August.

264 Classified Lists

LILY (Lilium, var. fulgens [L. Batemanii]). 2 ft. A vigorous variety
with reddish-salmon flowers resembling the Flava Lily in form. Of
peculiarly trying color unless well separated from others by white, as it
harmonizes with nothing.

LILY (Lilium Japonicum, var. roseum [L. Krcemeri]). This lily
varies from pure white to a deeper reddish pink. It is difficult to retain
as the bulb rots if water gets into it. The Japanese plant this variety
on its side, surrounding it with sand; thus the scales shed water and
prevents water from entering the center of the bulb.

LILY (Lilium speciosum, var. roseum). 2-3 ft. A beautiful pink
variety of this choice fragrant lily. Is sometimes almost white or pale
pink with carmine spots; blooms until late frosts. For culture, see L.
speciosum, White Per., August.

MONTBRETIA (Tritonw Potsii, var. rosea, known also as Monibretia
Potsii). 2 ft. A deep salmon-pink variety of this autumn flowering
plant. For culture, see Montbretia, Yellow Per., September.

PHLOX. Perennial (P. paniculata, var. Athis). A salmon-pink
variety.

PHLOX (P., var. Margaret Slack). A bright pink variety. For cul-
ture, see Phlox, White Per., August.

SEDUM. Showy (Sedum spectabile). 2 ft. Thick succulent plant
with pale glaucus leaves and large branching flat-topped heads of pink
flowers. All Sedums flourish natively among stones, so that an open
loamy soil and a few loose stones furnish a favorable condition for it;
blooms until frost.

SEDUM (S. stoloniferum). i^ ft. A pink species from Asia Minor.
Flowers f in. across in terminal clusters on a reddish stem.

SEPTEMBER
PINK SHRUBS

LESPEDEZA SIEBOLDI, a pink variety, see Lespedeza, Blue Shrubs,
September.

POLYGONUM BALDSCHUANICUM. 20 ft. A woody climber with pale
green leaves, flowers rose color in terminal and axillary clusters. A
very beautiful species. Give similar culture to P. multiflorum, White
Shrubs, September.

ROSE MALLOW, ROSE OF SHARON, SHRUBBY ALTHEA (Hibiscus

Pink Flowers 265

Syriacus). 10-12 ft. A straggling bush that needs the pruning knife
to keep it in shape. Flowers very large in white, pink, red, and purple,
or rather a raw magenta. In proper color a very beautiful shrub.
Give a deep rich soil, sheltered position and mulch about the root as it
is not always hardy in the far North.

SEPTEMBER
PINK PERENNIALS

ANEMONE (A. Japonica, var. elegantissima and Mont Rose). 2-3 ft.
Two very beautiful pink varieties of this charming flower. They should
have a well-drained location, which may be secured by digging a deep
bed, with six inches of loose stones or broken rock at the bottom, then
cover with eight inches of rich loam in which the roots are planted with
sand about them, two inches deep with the bud-end up, then over the
loam place three inches of cow manure, raking it smooth. Plant very
early and water once or twice a day until they flower. This method of
culture is said to produce plants of extraordinary vigor and enormous
flowers. Do not let any manure come within two inches of the roots.
See A. White Per., September.

ASTER. New England (.4. Nova-Anglice, var. rosed). 2 ft. A rose-
colored variety of a native aster of great beauty under cultivation.
Spreads at the root.

BOLTONIA (B. Icevigata) . 4 ft. A large rose-colored variety of a
plant resembling the Aster, bearing large much-branched terminal heads
of small rayed flowers; also a lavender variety, B. latisquima. For cul-
ture, see B. asteroides, White Per., September.

CHRYSANTHEMUM. Pompon (C. Indicum, var. rosewri). 3 ft. A
very hardy form of C. with handsome foliage that turns a rich sap green
and purplish red underneath and bears terminal clusters of old-rose-
colored flowers. The general advice is to nip off the tips of stems in
July or August to induce branching and more bloom; but it also retards
the bloom somewhat, and where frosts come early and cut down a
plant before it is in perfection of bloom, it may be better to let the plant
develop naturally, depending upon a rich moist soil and full sun to de-
velop fine blooms. Cheese-cloth covering is sufficient to protect the
plants from the early light frosts. Propagate by suckers, division of the
root in spring and by cuttings. See Yellow and Red Per., October.

266 Classified Lists

CHRYSANTHEMUM. Large -Flowered (C. sinense). 2-4 ft. This is
the parent of the modern large-flowered hybrid varieties. The heads are
much larger than formerly, the leaves thicker and less sharply cut. This
like C. Indicum comes in yellow and white varieties as well as pink.
Both are hardy and the culture the same. Cuttings, if well rooted, will
bloom the same year. They do well to be shifted about from time to
time and if pot grown the tops may be cut back. Changing to a pot
but little larger from time to time will increase the size of bloom. Reset
in spring.

JUNE
PINK ANNUALS

CANDYTUFT (Iberis umbellate, var. Queen of Italy and Dwarf Rose).
6 in. Two pink varieties of this free-blooming and early annual. If
seeds are sown in autumn, plants bloom in June. Self-sowing. For cul-
ture see Candytuft, White An., June.

CLARKIA (C. elegans pi. ft.). 2 ft. Single and double varieties in shell
pink. The double variety resembles the sprays of Flowering Almond,
and are beautiful for cutting. For culture see Clarkia, White An., June.

MORNING-GLORY (Ipomea purpurea, var. Pale pink). A variety
with delicate pink flowers of great beauty. For culture see Morning-
Glory, White An., June.

JULY

PINK ANNUALS

ABRONIA, SAND VERBENA (A. umbellata grandiflora). i ft. A plant
of prostrate habit, fleshy leaves, bearing dense terminal clusters of rosy
pink flowers resembling the Verbena. As a greenhouse plant it is peren-
nial, blooming in May. For culture see Abronia, White An., July. Also
a yellow variety.

AGROSTEMMA, ROSE CAMPION— a species of Lychnis, but its generic
name A. is one most used; known also as A. ccdi-rosa (Rose of Heaven),
i J ft. A plant resembling a Pink in foliage and bearing terminal flowers
of rose pink that are effective grown in masses. For culture see Agro-
stemma, White An., July. Also a red var. Viscaria cardinalis and a blue
one. V. earulea occulata.

ASTER CHINA (Calistephus Chinensis). 1-4 ft. Many hybrid van-

Pink Flowers 267

eties in flesh pink, pale and deep rose, shell pink and cerise tones. For
culture see Aster, White An., July.

AUSTRALIAN STAR FLOWER (Cephalipterum Drummondii), i ft. A
hardy annual recently brought to notice by Luther Burbank ; bears clus-
ters of fragrant star-shaped flowers ranging from light pink to crimson
that retain form and color when cut; an everlasting. Give any good rich
soil and sunny location.

BALSAM (Impatiens balsaminea, var. Perfection pink}, i-ij ft. A
very double pink variety resembling small roses. For culture see B.
White An., July.

BUTTERFLY FLOWER, see Schizanthus.

CATCHFLY (Silene pendula). i ft. A plant of prostrate habit with
reddish stems and calyx, with rose-pink flowers borne in the greatest pro-
fusion during the entire season. Self-sowing. Give any good soil and sun.

CATCHFLY (Silene, var. Double}. 6 in. A more dwarf variety with
double pink flowers.

CATCHFLY (S. compacta, pi. ft.) makes a very low bushy green growth
from which rise close heads of double pale pink flowers of great beauty.
It is very hardy and I believe, in a sheltered warm spot, might prove a
perennial.

CELOSIA, FEATHERED COCKSCOMB ( C. spicata). 2 ft. Bears pyr-
amidal spikes of rosy bloom, the lower part turning a silvery white. For
culture see Celosia, White An., Aug.

CEPHALIPTERUM, see Australian Star Flower.

CENTAUREA, see Corn-flower.

CENTRANTHUS. A shell pink annual variety with clusters of slender
tubular flowers. For culture see Centranthus, White An., July.

COCKSCOMB, see Celosia.

CORN-FLOWER (Centaurea cyanus, var. roseus). 2 ft. A variety bear-
ing rose-pink flowers as beautiful in their way as the blue Corn-flower.
For culture see Corn-flower, White An., July.

COSMOS (C. bipinnatus, var. Early Hybrid Pink). 3 ft. A variety
with light rose-pink flowers that proves very useful in pink beds during
the summer when so many pink perennials have ceased to bloom. See
Cosmos, White An., July.

DELPHINIUM, see Larkspur.

ESCHSCHOLTZIA (E. Calij arnica, var. carminea). i ft. A dwarf va-
riety of soft yellowish pink of great delicacy and beauty. For culture see
Eschscholtzia, White An., July.

268 Classified Lists

FENZLIA (Gilia dianlhoides) . 3-6 in. A low showy little plant suitable
for borders, with narrow leaves, and pink flowers with a darker throat.
Give a rich light soil.

GILLYFLOWER, see Stock.

GODETIA, SATIN FLOWER (G. amcena, var. Rosamond), i ft. A shell-
pink variety with a crimson spot at the base of each petal. For culture
see Godetia, White An., July.

LARKSPUR (Delphinium Ajacis, var. Newport Rose), i ft-i8 in. A
soft rose-pink branching variety; give room to grow. Culture given un-
der Larkspur, White An., July. July to Oct.

LAVATERA (L. trimestris, var. rosed). 3 ft. A bushy plant with abun-
dant foliage and very lovely open funnel-shaped flowers of shell pink three
inches across, throat and corolla veined with carmine. One of our most
beautiful annuals. Give a rich light soil, sun and water. Keep the seed-
vessels picked off. July to Oct.

LUPINE (Lupinus, var. Farquhar's Pink Annual}. 2-3 ft. A very de-
sirable variety in pale pink with a deeper reddish spur, branching in
habit and each branch bears long spikes of flowers until late frosts.
Give a rich light deep soil, sun and water. Sow seed where the plants
are to grow. July to Oct.

MALOPE. Three-lobed (M. trifida, cultivated under the name of M.
grandiftord). 3 ft. A pink annual form of Mallow bearing pale pink
funnel-shaped flowers of satiny texture with green throat. Sow seed
early in a sandy loam and sunny location. Flowers are solitary and
borne on slender drooping stems. July to Oct.

NASTURTIUM (Tropaolum majus, var. von Moltke). 6-10 ft. A dark
rose- colored variety.

NASTURTIUM (T. minus, var. Peach Blossom), i ft. A dwarf form in
a soft pink tone. For culture see Nasturtium, White An., July.

POPPY. Anne Hathaway (Papaver somniferum, var. paoniaflorum) .
3 ft. An English strain from Anne Hathaway's garden in Shottery.
Pale glaucus leaves and very large peony-shaped flowers of rose and
shell pink, the outer petals or collar large and smooth, the inner ones are
small, curled and twisted. A most beautiful variety and quite unlike our
Peony Poppies that have the center petals cut or fringed. Thrives in
any good soil, full sun, if the ground is kept cultivated. Rows of them in
a vegetable garden add a graceful touch to utility.

POPPY. Peony (Papaver somniferum, var. paoniaftorum). 3 ft.
Comes in all tones of pale flesh pink, rose and shell pink and old rose

Pink Flowers 269

with fringed petals alone, and with fringed center and smooth outside
petals. Bears from 3-6 blossoms that remain in bloom several days.
More showy but less permanent bloomers than the Shirley Poppy.

POPPY. Shirley (Papaver Rhceas, var. Shirley). 2 ft. A variety with
branching stems and leaves resembling the tomato plant; bears from 5-
loo blossoms. I have been growing double Shirleys which are evidently
crosses between the Shirley and Peony Poppy. For general culture see
Poppy, White An., July.

PHLOX (P. Drummondii, var. grandi flora). 3 ft. Varieties in many
tones of pink; also a fringed pink form. For culture see Phlox, White
An., July.

RHODANTHE (Helipterum Manglesii, var. pi. ft.), i ft. An erect
much-branching plant with glaucus clasping leaves and pink everlasting
flowers with several rows of rayed petals overlapping each other; very
attractive. Sow seeds in April in a rich soil and sunny location. For
further culture see Rhodanthe, White An., July.

SALPIGLOSSIS (S. var. Rose). A pink golden-veined variety of great
beauty. For culture see Salpiglossis, White An., July.

SAPONARIA, SOAPWORT (S. Calibrica). i ft. A low prostrate annual
variety with reddish stems bearing a quantity of small rose-pink salver-
shaped flowers. An excellent plant for border or where a mass of color is
desired. Give any good soil and sunny location.

SCHIZANTHUS, BUTTERFLY FLOWER (S. Wisetonensis) . 2 ft. A pale
rose-pink form with part of the corolla spotted with red or purple. Sow
seed early in Spring or autumn; for house plants sow seed in August in
rich soil. Self-sowing. For culture see S. White An., July.

SWEET-WILLIAM CATCHFLY (Silene Armeria). i ft. A bright pink
variety already described under Silene Armeria, White An., July.

STOCK (Matthiolaannua). i ft. Many hybrid varieties in tones of
shell and rose pink; see Stock, White An., July.

SWEET- PEA (Lathyrus odoratus, var. Katherine Tracy \ Gladys Unuuin,
Lovely, Prima Donna). 4-6 ft. All of them beautiful pink varieties of
this delightful flower.

TRIDAX (T. bicolor rosed), i ft.-i8 in. An erect plant bearing daisy-
formed pink-rayed flowers shading to yellow toward the center. A plant
little known, but of value where a pure pink color is to be maintained
during the hot dry summer months. Give a good rich soil, sun and the
usual cultivation. July to Oct.

VERBENA (V. teucroides—m&ny hybrid varieties). Among them Mam-

270 Classified Lists

moth Pink is one of the best. To get good results from Verbenas they
should be pegged down so that the prostrate stems many send out root-
lets at every joint. By nipping off the tips of the branches they will
spread and cover the ground with bloom. Give a rich soil and moisture.
They make excellent house plants by cutting back blooming plants and
taking them indoors before heavy frosts. July to Oct. See other lists.

AUGUST
PINK ANNUALS

AGERATUM, MIST FLOWER (.4. conyzoides, var. Lasseauxii). 2-3 ft.
An erect branching plant bearing many clusters of small pink finely-
fringed flowers. If seed is sown in autumn it will bloom early in
July. Self -sowing. Many blue varieties. For culture see White An.,
July.

LARKSPUR (Delphinium Ajacis, var. Dwarf Branching), i ft. A
rather late variety that branches freely and continues to bloom until late
autumn. For culture see Larkspur, White An., July.

PALIFOXIA (Polypteris Hookeriana). 2 ft. Plant very bushy and
bears loose clusters of rosy pink flowers resembling daisies. Self -sowing.
Give any good soil. August to Oct.

PALAVA (P. flexuosa). 6-10 in. A member of the Malva family with
solitary pink flowers having bright red anthers and red at the base of
each petal. Give any good soil.

PENTSTEMON (P. campanulatus). 1-2 ft. A perennial blooming the
first season, and may be treated as an annual. For description and cul-
ture see P. campanttlatus, Pink Per., July.

PERIWINKLE or VINCA (Vinca minor), i ft. An erect plant with
glossy green leaves and terminal pink flowers. For description and cul-
ture see Vinca, White An., Aug. Also Blue An., Aug.

PETUNIA (P. violacea). Many hybrid forms in pink, double and
fringed. See Petunia, White An., Aug.

SCABIOUS. Sweet (S. atropurpurea, var. grandiflora). 2 ft. A lovely
tone of flesh pink, also pale rose pink. See Scabious White An., Aug.

VINCA, see Periwinkle.

ZINNIA (Z. elegans). Hybrid varieties in pink, single and double, also
a curled and crested variety. See Zinnia, White An., Aug.

Pink Flowers 271

SEPTEMBER
PINK ANNUALS

COSMOS (C. bipinnatus, var. Mammoth Pink). 4-6 ft. A late variety
in rose pink that will scarcely bloom before frost unless in a very shel-
tered position, but worth growing because of its beautiful fine-cut foliage.
See Cosmos, White An., Sept.

RED FLOWERS
APRIL

RED SHRUBS— None
APRIL

RED PERENNIALS

AUBRETIA, see False Watercress.

FALSE WATERCRESS (Aubretia deltoides, var. Leichtlinii). 6-12 in.
A hardy evergreen trailer bearing few-flowered racemes of rosy carmine
flowers. Plants make a dense growth and can be layered, covering
branches with sand and leaf mold, and will establish themselves by
spring. After flowering the plant may be divided. Transplant in au-
tumn. Propagate also by seeds and cuttings; give a deep rich soil.

MAY
RED SHRUBS

PEACH. Japanese (Prunus Persica, var. sanguined plena). 3-8 ft.
One of our most beautiful introductions from Japan, bearing blood red
double flowers of great delicacy and beauty. Also a pink and a white
variety. For description and culture see Peach. Japanese, Pink Shrubs,
May.

QUINCE. Japan (Cydonia Japonica). Also known as Pyrus Japon-
ica. 4-6 ft. A beautiful and well-known shrub with bright scarlet
flowers produced for a long season. It can either be treated as a bush on
the open lawn, or can be trained against a wall, or grown as a hedge.
Also it can be pruned to a single standard with long upper branches. It
can be grafted on a Pear, Hawthorn or common Quince. Layers are
obtained by cutting down the old stock and when the young growth is
firm enough can be bent down; or the old stock can be cut down and

272

Red Flowers 273

covered with soil, which will cause the old growth to rot and the young
shoots to spring up at the base which can be detached by the autumn of
the following year. It can also be increased by suckers and cuttings.
The Pear grafted on a Quince increases its productiveness. Give a deep
rich soil and any situation not too exposed. It is subject to San Jose*
scale.

REDBUD, JUDAS TREE (Cercis Canadensis). 10-40 ft. Handsome
leaves that open at the same time that the brilliant red or rose colored
flowers expand, making a beautiful tree.

REDBUD (C. Chinensis, or C. Japonica). 8-12 ft. A bushy grower
with glossy leaves and larger and handsomer flowers that make a flame
of color. Said not to be quite hardy far North; otherwise a more de-
sirable species.

MAY
RED PERENNIALS

AQUILEGIA, see Columbine.

COLUMBINE. Rock (Aquilegia Canadensis). 2 ft. A native variety
in scarlet and yellow that thrives in any rich moist soil. It grows na-
tively on wet ledges or near rocks

COLUMBINE (A vulgaris, var. rosed). 2ft. A variety of the common
garden Columbine in rich tones of old red.

COLUMBINE (A. Skinneri). 1-2 ft. A greenish orange with bright
red spurs.

For culture see Columbine, White Per., May.

HYACINTH (Hyacinthus orientalis, var. Garibaldi, H. var. Lord Ma-
caulay and H. var. Roi des Beiges'). All red varieties. For culture see
Hyacinth, White Per., May.

LYCHNIS. Scarlet, Maltese Cross (L. Chalcedonicd) . 2 ft. Like all
the Lychnis family it is a tall rather weedy coarse plant with very dense
flat-topped terminal clusters of brilliant scarlet flowers. Self-sowing.
For culture see Lychnis, White Per., May.

TULIP (Tulipa suavolens, var. Artus [single]); Cochenille (double),
varieties in pure red. For culture see Tulip, White Per., May.

274 Classified Lists

JUNE
RED SHRUBS

CALYCANTHUS FLORIDTJS, see Sweet-scented Shrub.

HONEYSUCKLE. Scarlet or Trumpet; also known as Woodbine
(Lonicera sempervirens) . 4-8 ft. An evergreen twining variety that is
late in dropping its leaves in the North. It blooms throughout the en-
tire season in clusters of brilliant scarlet tubular flowers, and though it
has no fragrance is the most desirable and the handsomest of cultivated
Honeysuckles. If heavily pruned looks almost like a bush against a
wall. For culture, see Honeysuckle Shrubs, July.

ROSE. Crimson Rambler. A comparatively new hybrid climbing
rose that has become a general favorite. It makes a vigorous growth and
bears many close clusters of deep red flowers less than 2 in. across.
While it is hardy it thrives best in northern latitudes when trained against
a south wall or given a sheltered position.

ROSE. Anne de Diesbach. Hybrid Perpetual of vigorous upright
growth with large fragrant carmine red blooms. Flowers again in the
autumn if given a midsummer pruning.

ROSE. Camille De Rohan. A hybrid Perpetual of vigorous growth
and good foliage; blooms freely with deep velvety crimson fragrant
flowers. Does best in cool weather and is liable to burn in the sun, and
should be given a sheltered position away from the hot afternoon sun.
Said to be the best of all the dark roses.

ROSE. Jacqueminot. A Hybrid China of long-established excellence
with large rich deep red fragrant blooms. One of the most satisfactory
roses grown.

ROSE RUGOSA (Rosa rugosa rubrd). A hardy variety making a spread-
ing vigorous growth with glossy foliage. A free and continuous bloomer
in both single and double varieties. The growth is rather large for an
ordinary rose bed, as it sometimes attains 4-5 ft. in a single season and
also spreads badly at the root.

ROSE. Lancaster or Semi-double Red or Red Garden Rose. There
is no local name for this survival of former days, which we find running
wild about the old abandoned house sites in our neighborhood. But I
am led to believe it is a form of the old Damask rose brought originally
from Persia and adopted by the English House of Lancaster as its em-
blem; until it is disproved I shall call it the Lancaster rose. Under cul-

Red Flowers 275

tivation it attains a height of 2-3 ft., has rather rough foliage, few spines
and often bears 40 blooms on a single plant. It looks as if it might be the
parent of the American Beauty Rose which it much resembles when in
bud, but when open is a brilliant crimson shading to a lighter center, is
semi-double and has a thick cluster of golden yellow stamens. It has a
clean spicy fragrance, is free from disease, is perfectly hardy, and
blooms but once, for about three weeks, beginning late in June. It
spreads from the root. Prune severely in late autumn or early spring.
Subject to the green slug.

ROSE. Ulrich Brunner. A Hybrid Perpetual with bright cherry red
blooms of large size and firm petals; not subject to disease. It blooms
early and continuously.

ROSE. Dwarf Wild (Rosa lucida). A native rose brought from the
coast of New Hampshire where the bloom is crimson, but in the moun-
tains it has become a deep rose color. 3-5 ft. Has small thick shining
leaves which turn a handsome orange red in autumn and flowers are
solitary or few in a cluster. It is perfectly hardy and spreads from the
root, and bears handsome fruit.

SWEET-SCENTED SHRUB (Calycanthus floridus). 3-5 ft. A hardy
shrub with spreading branches, the wood and roots smelling strongly of
camphor, the blossoms, of deep purplish red, two inches across, are borne
either in axils of the leaves or solitary; leaves are soft and downy. Prop-
agate by seeds sown in cold frames as soon as ripe, or by layering the
branches in summer. Give a deep rich soil, moisture and a sunny loca-
tion.

WEIGELIA (Diervilla, var. Othello; D. var. Floribunda and D. var.
Aid Carrier e). All red varieties. For culture see Weigelia, White
Shrubs, June.

JUNE

RED PERENNIALS

CROWN IMPERIAL (Fritillaria imperialis, var. Qrown on Crown). 1-2
ft. A bulbous-rooted plant with red flowers, hanging in whorls above
each other in a sort of umbel beneath the terminal tuft or crown of leaves.
Any good garden soil is suitable, but sandy loam is preferable. It takes
from four to six years to flower if raised from seed and is best propagated
by offsets which may be set out separately. The plant does not require
lifting oftener than every three or four years.

276 Classified Lists

FIRE PINK, INDIAN PINK (Silene Virginicd). 1-2 ft. Bears loose
cymes of deep crimson flowers borne on slender stems. Give a light
loamy soil. Propagate by seeds, cutting and division of the root.

FOXGLOVE (Digitalis purpurea), 4 ft. The common variety of pur-
plish red, not so choice as the pink or the white varieties already named,
See Foxglove, White Per., June.

FRITILLARIA, see Crown Imperial.

HAWKBIT, FALL DANDELION (Leontodon autumnale). i ft. A spread-
ing plant that forms tufts of hairy leaves and sends up many tall stems
bearing terminal clusters of orange-red flowers resembling the Dande-
lion. Any good soil. Propagate by seed or suckers.

LILY. Dahurian (L. davuricum.) 2-3 ft. A vigorous variety with
green stems, sessile leaves and erect deep scarlet-red flowers from 3-5 in.
across, borne in terminal clusters. For culture see Lily, White Per.,
June.

LILY. Native Red (Lilium Canadense, var. rubmm). 2 ft. A native
wild Lily of slender growth with whorled leaves, bearing a terminal
cluster of orange-red or red flowers. It is found in moist meadows and
at the edge of woods and should have similar conditions. Give the usual
culture required by Lilies.

LYCHNIS. Mullein (L. coronaria; known also as Agrostemma coro-
naria, var. atrosanguinea). 2 ft. A vigorous variety with whitish woolly
leaves and brilliant dark crimson flowers borne in branching terminal
clusters, opening a few at a time for a long season. It is self sowing.
For culture see Lychnis, Pink Per., June.

PEONY (Pceonia officinalis, var. Agida [early]; P. var. edulis [late];
P. var. rubra superba, latest of all). These are pure red types of Peony.
For culture see Peony, White Per., June.

PINK. Indian, see Fire Pink.

PINK. Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus, var. Grenadin Scarlet).
2 ft. A hardy form of red Carnation that requires a little protection in
winter. See Pink. Carnation, White Per., June.

PINK. Chinese (Dianthus Chinensis, var. Heddewigii; known also
as D. Heddewigii, var. atropurpureum) . 2 ft. A biennial form bloom-
ing late in July the first season from seed, but in June the second year.
Has large deep red flowers resembling Carnations, but has no fragrance.
If in a dry sheltered spot may be kept for several years. For culture see
Pink. Chinese, White Per., June.

POPPY. Oriental (Papaver orientalis, var. Parkmanii). 3 ft. A truly

Red Flowers 277

splendid plant with deeply incised foliage one foot long and large brilliant
red flowers with a dark spot at the base of each petal, the bloom being
often from 7-9 in. across. A plant bears from three to five blooms
opening in succession. For culture see Poppy, Oriental, Pink Per.,
June.

POTENTILLA (P. Napdlensis, var. Mars). 3 ft. A plant with grayish-
green foliage resembling the leaves of the Strawberry; flowers of deep red
i$ in. across. For culture see Potentilla, White Per., June.

SAPONARIA, SOAPWORT (S. ocymoides, var. splendens). 6 in. A creep-
ing, much-branched hairy variety with red or pink flowers and purplish
calyx. Will grow in any good soil and is well suited to rock work. Prop-
agate by seeds or division of root.

SILENE SHAFTA, Autumn Catchfly, a brick red variety 12 in. high; see
Catchfly. Autumn Pink per., June.

SWEET-WILLIAM (Dianthus barbatus). 2 ft. There are pure cardinal
red varieties of this old favorite, which cannot be procured with any
assurance from seed because of cross-fertilization by insects; but the
strain is likely to appear in any collection, and may be perpetuated ac-
cording to culture given under Sweet-william, White Per., June.

VALERIAN. Red (Centranthus ruber). 2 ft. A lovely coral-red va-
riety of this delicate flower that blooms in terminal clusters and are of
slender tubular form. For culture see Valerian, White Per., June.

JULY
RED SHRUBS

RASPBERRY. Purple-flowered, Bramble (Rubrus odoratus). 3-5 ft
erroneously called Mulberry. An ornamental shrub with leaves resem-
bling the Maple and showy fragrant purplish rose-colored flowers 1-2 in.
across, produced all summer; fruit red and flat. All the Brambles are
short lived, though hardy, the stem dying down the second year like the
common Raspberry. They send out suckers and are thus propagated.
Give a shaded situation and moist soil, but not under the drip of trees.

SMOKE-TREE (Rhus cotinus) see Blue Shrubs, July.

SPIREA. Anthony Waterer (S. bumalda, var. Anthony Waterer). 2-3
ft. Dwarf compact habit; first flowers appear in July, forming large flat
heads while the plants are but a few inches high, and as they fade, if cut
off, are replaced by others, somewhat smaller and continue to bloom un-

278 Classified Lists

til frost; color a bright red, but more often a magenta; very showy when
planted in masses and relieved with white flowers.

SPIREA. Purple-tipped (Spirea superba). 3-4 ft. One of our most
beautiful shrubs with lovely reddish-green foliage in early spring and
rich coloring in autumn; of exceedingly vigorous growth, sending up
many woody stems terminating in large flat heads of purplish-red flowers.
For general culture see Bridal Wreath, White Shrubs, April.

JULY

RED PERENNIALS

AVENS (Geum Chilcensis, var. atrosanguineum pi. ft.). 1-2 ft. A
hardy plant with leaves much lobed and cut, branching stems ending in
panicles of scarlet flowers. Give a rich light soil and well-drained situa-
tion. Increase by seeds or division of the root.

BEE BALM, OSWEGO TEA (Monarda didyma). 2 ft. Bears brilliant
red flowers in whorled heads supported by leafy bracts of pale green
tinged with red. The plant looks better in masses than as single speci-
mens. Give a rich moist soil, partial shade and divide roots in autumn.
Propagated also by seed.

BITTERSWEET. Climbing; Waxwork (Celastrus scandens). 8-20 ft.
A smooth climber, and though the flowers are greenish white and some-
what inconspicuous, the beauty of the vine is in the showy three-cor-
nered orange-red berries borne in autumn, so I class it with red peren-
nials. The leaves are thin and finely serrated. Give a good moist soil,
sun; propagated by layering young shoots in autumn.

CANNA (C. Ehemanni [Crozy\ var. Mme. Crozy; Rubin, Pres. Cleve-
land and Comte de Sachs). 3-6 ft. All red varieties. For culture see
Canna White Per., July.

CALLIRRHOE, MALLOW POPPY (C. involucrata, var. linearlobd). 1-3 ft.
A low prostrate plant with cut heavy foliage and loose panicles of crim-
son flowers 2 in. across, blooms all the season. Give a rich light sandy
soil and propagate by seeds or cuttings.

CARDINAL FLOWER (Lobelia cardinalis). 3 ft. A plant native to some
portions of New England, but can be grown successfully in gardens. In
its native state it is found in low wet meadows or near shaded water-
courses in rich heavy soil, but I have transplanted some, placing it in
rich light deep soil, quite dry and in full sun, where the roots were shaded

Red Flowers 279

by the close growth of other plants. Under such treatment a single root
has sent up four stalks three feet high, bearing leafy racemes of brilliant
cardinal red flowers covering over a foot of the stem. It is one of the
pure full red flowers of the garden and very beautiful when the plant is
well established. I advise a little protection in winter such as a plant
would get by the dying down and matting of vegetation about it.

CLEMATIS COCCINEA, see Leather Flower, Red.

CLEMATIS (C. Jackmanni, var. Ville de Lyori). 4-8 ft. A showy
form of Clematis, very hardy, with slender stem and scant foliage, bear-
ing large old red flowers. For culture see Clematis, White Per., July.

CORAL BELLS (Heuchera sanguined), i ft. A very handsome though
not a large plant, with a low spreading growth of leaves, and long nod-
ding loose panicles of coral-red flowers resembling the Begonia. Give
a rich deep soil, full sun and water during the flowering season. Prop-
agated by suckers and seed.

FRENCH HONEYSUCKLE (Hedysarum coronarium). 3-4 ft. Leaves
downy beneath and at the margins, flowers a deep red in spikes or
crowded racemes. Give a sunny location and rich deep soil. Propa-
gated by seed and division of the root.

GEUM, see Avens.

HEDYSARUM, see French Honeysuckle.

HEUCHERA, see Coral Bells.

HOLLYHOCK (Althea rosed). 4-9 ft. Single and double varieties in
pure cardinal red; for culture see Hollyhock, White Per., July.

LARKSPUR. Red (Delphinium nudicaule). 2 ft. Has but few leaves
deeply cut with an irridescent surface when young; tall scape scattered
with orange-scarlet flowers. Give protection in winter; also rich sandy
loam. Increases but slightly at the root. Propagated by seed and divi-
sion of root in strong plants. For further culture see Larkspur, White
Per., July.

LEATHER FLOWER. Red (Clematis Viorna, var. coccined). 2-5 ft.
A slender branching herbaceous vine that bears thick leathery pointed
buds, that, when open, curve outwards only at the tips, looking more like
a calyx of a flower; of a good color, but a disappointment as a flower.
For culture see Clematis, White Per., July.

LOOSESTRIFE. Spiked (Ly thrum salicaria, var. roseum superbum);
(L. roseum superbum). 2 ft. A vigorous plant sending up several leafy
stalks, bearing purplish-red or pink flowers crowded in *heir axils, ending
in a wand-like spike 6 in. long. It is of such a peculiar color that it does

280 Classified Lists

not harmonize with pure pink or red, but grown in a mass by itself, or
when isolated from other plants by much green it is strikingly handsome
in effect. Give any good soil, full sun, rather a dry situation, else it runs
too much to leaf. Propagate by seed or division of the root.

LYTHRUM, see Loosestrife.

PEA. Perennial (Lathyrus latifolius, var. splendens). 4-6 ft. A
bright red form of this most desirable plant. For description and culture
see Pea. White and Pink Per., July.

PENTSTEMON (P. barbatus, var. Torreyi). 3-4 ft. A tall twiggy plant
with pale leaves and loose raceme or panicle of handsome drooping
flowers with scarlet tubular corolla, the lower petals bearded in the
throat; very desirable. For culture see Pentstemon, Blue Per., July.

POPPY MALLOW, see Callirrhoe.

SNAPDRAGON (Antirrhinum ma jus, var. Giant Scarlet and Giant
Red). 2 ft. Two very handsome varieties of scarlet and red in both the
dwarf and tall forms. For culture see Snapdragon, White Per., July.

TRUMPET CREEPER (Tacoma radicans; known also as Bignonia radi-
cans). A climber that rises by aerial rootlets, with handsome foliage and
terminal corymbs of large scarlet tubular flowers 2-3 in. long. It takes
some time to get established and does best when trained against a wall
with southern exposure. It may also be trained to a single standard
with drooping branches to make a hedge. If seed-vessels are not per-
mitted to form it will bloom almost the entire season. Give a rich light
loamy soil. Propagate by layering, by root cuttings or cuttings of partly
ripened wood.

AUGUST
RED SHRUBS

SMOKE-BUSH (Rhus cotinus). Classified under Blue Shrubs, July, as a
purplish-red bush, is still in bloom.

AUGUST
RED PERENNIALS

BLAZING- STAR (Liatris scariosa). 2 ft. A purplish-red variety with
heads 2 in. in diameter in the form of an elongated corymb. For cul-
ture see Liatris, Blue Per., Aug.

Red Flowers 281

DAHLIA (D. variabilis, var. Standard Bearer, [scarlet]) ; Wm. Agnew
(red); Lucifer, a curious new hybrid variety with black stems, brown
leaves and single scarlet flowers; and many other hybrid varieties in
scarlet, deep red and crimson. For culture see Dahlia, White Per.,
Aug.

GLADIOLUS (G. Childsii, var. Pres. Carnol). A brilliant flaming red
variety with enormous flowers. The Gladiolus does well in a rose bed
as it blooms so late that the color does not conflict with that of the roses,
and the growth being slender does not interfere with rose roots. Plant
several times to get a succession of bloom. For culture see Gladiolus,
White Per., Aug.

LIATRIS, see Blazing Star.

LILY. Siberian Coral (L. tenufolium). 2 ft. A delicate and beautiful
form with 15 or more nodding scarlet or crimson flowers with reflexed
petals; is a very choice variety. Propagate by seed or offsets. Is one of
the first to bloom from seed.

MONTBRETIA (Tritonia Potsii, var. etoile de jeu). 2 ft. A scarlet form
of this showy autumn-blooming bulbous plant. For description and
culture see Montbretia, Yel. Per., Aug.

PHLOX. Per. (P. paniculata, var. Coquelicof). 3 ft. A pure red va-
riety; for culture see Phlox, White Per., Aug.

TRITOMA, RED-HOT POKER, FLAME FLOWER (Kniphofia Pjitzeri;
known also as T. Pjitzeri). 3 ft. A hardy plant that needs a little pro-
tection in my latitude. Bears dense oblong spikes of drooping orange-
red flowers, very showy in effect. Droughts are fatal to it, and it should
be mulched and watered during the summer. Propagated by dividing
the conns in early spring. Give a deep rich moist soil and sun.

SEPTEMBER
RED PERENNIALS

JAPANESE LANTERN PLANT (Phy salts Franoketi). 1-2 ft. Closely
resembles the old P. Alkengi. A perennial with slender white creeping
rootstocks, and leaves resembling the potato. Flowers small and in-
conspicuous, white, and the only beauty of the plant is the extraordinary
calyx, which, when ripe, forms a small inflated oval balloon of coral red,
and serves as a papery husk to the enclosed globular red berry. The
stalks bearing these may be cut when the leaves fall in the autumn, and

282 Classified Lists

the husks will keep their form and color for years. A rich sandy loam is
best for it. Give it winter protection. Propagate by seeds and division
of the root.

OCTOBER

RED PERENNIALS

CHRYSANTHEMUM. Pompon (C. Indicum, van. Dundee). A scarlet-
maroon variety 2 ft. high.

CHRYSANTHEMUM. Large-flowered (C. sinensis, var. Peto). Brick
red. 2 ft. For culture see Chrysanthemum, Yel. and Pink Per., Oct.

JUNE

RED ANNUALS

FLAX. Scarlet (Linum grandiflorum, var. rubrum). i ft. A tender
perennial grown as an annual bearing showy red flowers. Give a light
soil with leaf mold, and not too wet a location. June to Sept.

POPPY. Shirley (Papaver Rhoeas, var. Shirley). 2-3 ft. The well-
known variety with branching stems and many flowers in single and
double varieties in pure deep red and red with a dark spot at the base of
each petal. For culture see Poppy, Shirley, White An., June.

JULY

RED ANNUALS

ADONIS, PHEASANT'S-EYE (Adonis astivalis). i ft. A delicately
beautiful plant with finely cut fern-like foliage and solitary terminal
deep-red flowers an inch across with a dark spot at the base of each petal.
Sow seeds in autumn or very early in spring as they are slow to germinate.
Give any good soil and sun. The seeds will keep for years. July and
Aug.

ALONSOA, MARSH FLOWER (A. incisifolia, known also as A. grandi-
flora). i ft. A smooth branching plant bearing brilliant orange scarlet
flowers an inch across. It thrives in light rich soil and can be propagated
by seeds or cuttings if grown as a house plant. These can be cut in early

Red Flowers 283

spring and set out in May. The plant suffers from too much moisture;
also, if given too little, the roots wither and die. July to Oct.

AMARANTH. Red (Amaranthus paniculatus). 3 ft. A rather coarse
weedy plant with leaves tinged and veined with red, and deep crimson
flowers arranged in axillary spikes which grow larger and more branching
toward the top of the plant making in time an enormous terminal pan-
icle. It begins to bloom when less than a foot high and blooms increas-
ingly until frost. These blooms are said to retain their freshness for a
long season when cut. The leaves turn a beautiful orange-red in au-
tumn. Clumps of Amaranthus are effective on either side of an entrance
to a garden, or against shrubbery. The leaves may be used as a pot herb
to take the place of spinach and are said to have medicinal qualities.
Give any good soil, sun and room to develop. Self-sowing to the point
of being a pest. July to Oct.

ASTER. China (Callistephus hortensis, var. Victoria), and many hybrid
forms in old red, crimson and scarlet. For culture see Astor, White An.,
July.

BALSAM (Impatiens Balsamina, var. Blood Red). 2 ft. A pure deep-
red variety. For culture see Balsam, White An., July.

BEAN. Scarlet, or Scarlet Runner (Phaseolus multiflorus) . 6-8 ft. A
twining plant with showy scarlet flowers; the seed-pods are excellent as a
vegetable. Give any good soil. July to Sept. Also white and pink va-
rieties.

CACALIA, see Tassel Flower.

CELOSIA, see Cockscomb.

CLARKIA (C. elegans). 2 ft. Double and single varieties in deep red.
For culture see Clarkia, Blue An., June.

COCKSCOMB (Celosia plumosa, var. Thomson's Magnified). 2 ft. A
bushy variety with red and dark -green foliage and many branching pyr-
amidal clusters of feathery red flowers. Does better for frequent trans-
planting; do not crowd if dwarf habit is desired. A light soil is preferred.
For culture see Celosia, Pink An., June.

CALLOMIA (Gilia coccined), (C. cocdned). i ft. A rather coarse weedy
plant bearing small tubular coral-red flowers in terminal clusters; not
worth much except that it survives the early frosts and continues to bloom
when almost everything else is gone. Thrives in any good soil; is self-
sowing. June to Oct.

COSMOS (C. bipinnatus, var. Early Hybrid}. 4 ft. A magenta-red
variety which if placed properly will not clash with other tones, but the

284 Classified Lists

pink and white varieties are far prettier. Stake early and pinch back to
make a branching growth. Self-sowing to a slight degree. June to Oct.
For culture see Cosmos, White An., June.

GODETIA. Satin Flower (G. amcena, var. Gloriosa; known also as G.
Lindleyi and G. rubicunda). i ft. A variety with deep-red flowers of
glistening silky texture. For culture see Godetia, Pink An., June. Self-
sowing.

MIGNONETTE (Reseda odorata, var. Excelsior), i ft. A coppery red va-
riety and Goliath, a red form. For culture see Mignonette, White An., July.

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM (M. crystallinum). 4 in. A deep red variety
of low succulent plants that open their flowers only in the sun. For cul-
ture see Mesembryanthemum, White An., July.

NASTURTIUM. Dwarf (Troposolum nor, var. Compact Lustrus). i ft.
Deep red.

NASTURTIUM. Tall. (Tropaolum majus, var. coccineuni). 4-6 ft.
Bright scarlet.

NASTURTIUM. Lobb's (Tropceolnm Lobbianum, var. Ivy-leaved).
Bluish-green ivy-shaped foliage and deep-red fringed flowers. For cul-
ture see Nasturtium, White An., July.

PINK. Chinese, can be grown as an annual; for culture see Pink.
Chinese, Red Per., June.

PETUNIA (P. grandi flora). 2 it. Many hybrid varieties in crimson and
magenta; very showy for those who like them. For culture see Petunia,
White An., July.

PHLOX (P. Drummondii grandiflora, var. Blood Red). 2 ft. A very
beautiful form of this old favorite in pure cardinal red. For culture see
Phlox, White An., July.

POPPY. Peony (Papaver somniferum). 3-4 ft. In both single and
double varieties in pure cardinal red; one of the showiest flowers of the
garden, but lasts only two or three weeks. For culture see Poppy, White
An., July.

PORTULACA (P. grandiflora, var. Searlef). 6 in. See Portulaca, White
An., July.

SATIN FLOWER, see Godetia.

SCABIOUS. Sweet (Scabiosa atropurpurea, var. Blood Red). 2 ft. A
beautiful variety of this very desirable flower. See Scabious, White An.,
July.

SNAPDRAGON (Antirrhinum majus, var. Giant Scarlet). Can be grown
as an annual. For culture see Snapdragon, Red Per., July.

Red Flowers 285

STOCK. Ten Weeks (Matthiola annua, var. Victoria} in a deep rich
red. See Stock, White An., July.

SWEET-PEA (Lathyrus odoratus, var. Phyllis Unwin). 4-6 ft. A red
variety. See Sweet- Pea, White An., July.

TASSEL FLOWER (Emilia sonchifolia, var. coccinea; cultivated under
the name Cacalia). 2 ft. An erect plaitf with opposite leaves clasping
the stem and terminal clusters of brilliant orange-scarlet fringed flowers.
It should be staked. Give any good soil. July to Oct.

VERBENA (V. chamadrifolia, var. Defiance). 2-3 ft. A long estab-
lished variety with brilliant red flowers; very hardy. It makes a valuable
house plant if raised from seed; for, after blooming all summer, it may
be cut back, and with a little period of rest, it will bloom all winter.
Plants raised from seed are stronger than those from cuttings. Give a
rich moist soil. July to Oct.

VISCARIA or ROCK LYCHNIS. A red variety of Lychnis codi-rosa com-
monly called Agrostemma codi-rosa. For culture see Agrostemma,
Pink An., July.

ZINNIA (Z. elegans}. Hybrid varieties in scarlet, pure red and crimson.
See Zinnia, White An., July.

AUGUST

RED ANNUALS

BLANKET FLOWER (Gaillardia puchella; known also as Gaillardia
picta, var. Amblyodori). i| ft. A deep-red variety blooming until frost.
For description and culture see Gaillardia, Yel. An., Aug.

CYPRESS-VINE (Ipomea quamoclif). 3-5 ft. A delicately beautiful
vine with green thread-like leaves and star-shaped brilliant red flowers.
Give a light well-enriched soil, full sun and moisture. It is killed by the
first frost.

GAILLARDIA, see Blanket Flower.

MARVEL OF PERU (Mirabilis Jalapa). 3 ft.# A coarse weedy plant
with fragrant crimson flowers. The roots form tubers and can be kept
over winter as Dahlias are and replanted the next year. Give a rich soil
and moisture.

NICOTIANA (N. Sander re). 3 ft. A brilliant red variety, very free
flowering and fragrant like N. afiinis. For culture see Nicotiana, White
An., Aug.

286 Classified Lists

SALPIGLOSSIS (S. sinuata, var. Maroon Golden-veined). 3 ft. A red
variety veined with yellow. See Salpiglossis, White An., Aug.

SAL VTA (S. splendens, var. Clara Bedmari). 2 ft. A branching variety
with dark-green leaves, and both the calyx and corolla of the flowers are
brilliant red. Not a satisfactory house plant, though it may be raised
from seed in the house and planted out in summer. Rather a tender
plant in the North, but if protected from the first early frosts, will prob-
ably bloom until Oct. Give a deep rich soil and an occasional bath of
soap-suds through the summer.

WALLFLOWER (Chieranthus cheiri, var. Early Parisian). 1-3 ft. A
bright blood-red variety of this most delicious flower, whose fragrance is
unequaled. When a plant is well established, it can be lifted, and taken
indoors, where it will bloom almost continuously for months if the seed-
vessels are removed as fast as they form. Prune to secure a bushy
growth. Give a deep rich soil, moisture and sun. Strong plants are se-
cured from cuttings that root easily and make a woody growth in a year
or two. Not quite hardy out of doors in the North.

INDEX

INDEX

Abronia, A. fragrans, 200; A.
areneria, 243; A. umbellata, 266

Acacia, False, see Locust Tree;
Rose, Robinia hispida, 251

Achillea, A. Ptarmica, 177

Aconite, wild, Aconitum unciatum,
217

Aconitum Nepallus, var. albus,
Monkshood, white, 189; A. uncia-
tum, Wild Aconite, 217; A. stork-
ianum, 217

Adam, gifts to, 40, 41

Adam's Needle, see Yucca

Adam's statistics, 19, 20; hoeing,
47, 48

Adenophora potanini, 217

Adlumia cirrhosa, Allegheny Vine,

75, 76, 253

Adonis, Spring, A. vernalis, 231;
Pheasant's Eye, A. astivalis, 282

Adonis vernalis, Spring Adonis, 231;
A. (zstivalis, Pheasant's Eye, 282

/Egopodium podigrarium, Goutweed,
180

.^Sthionema, A. grandiflora, 249

African Daisy, Arctotis grandis, 200

Ageratum, A. Mexicanum, 200; A.
conyzoides, 226, 270

Ageratum Mexicanum, Ageratum,
Painters' Brush, 200; A. cony-
zoides, Mist Flower, 226, 270

Agrostemma, Rose of Heaven, A.
cceli-rosa, 200, 266

Agrostemma cceli-rosa, Rose of
Heaven, 200; Red Viscaria, 285

Aim of book, i, 2

Allegheny Vine, Adlumia cirrhosa,

76, 253

Almond, Flowering, Prunus Japon-

ica, 166; var. rosea, 247
Alonsoa incisifolia, Marsh Flower,

282

Althea, see Rose Mallow
Althea rosea, Hollyhock, 193, 240,

260, 279

Althea, Shrubby, see Rose Mallow,
196, 264, 265

Alyssum, Rock, A. saxatile, 231;
sweet, A. maritimum, 198

Alyssum maritimum, Sweet Alys-
sum, 198; A. saxatile, Rock Alys-
sum, 231

Amaranth, Red, Amaranthus panicu-
latus, 283

Amateur work, 20

Ambrosia artemesice folia, 69; A.
Mexicanum, 78

Amelanchier Canadensis, Shad Bush,
167

American Cowslip, see Dodecatheon

Amorpha canescens, Lead Plant,
81, 221; A.fruticosa, False Indigo,
216

Amsonia Tabernamontana, 214

Anagallis, A. ccerulea, 228

Anaphalis margaritacea, Immor-
telle, 194

Anchusa capensis, 226; A. Barrel-
ieri, 67, 211; A. Italica, var.
Dropmore, 217

Andromeda, A. perifolia, 247

Anemone, Pennsylvania, A. Penn-
sylvanica, 126, 127, 178; Japanese,
A. Japonica, 196, 265

Anemone Pennsylvanica, Penn.
Anemone, 126, 127, 178; A. Jap-
onica, Japanese Anemone, 196,
265; A. pulsatilla, Pasque Flower,
211

Angelica archangelica, Archangelica,
178

Angelica Tree, Aralia spinosa, 191

Animal orchard, Margaret's, 48

Anniversaries, 40

Annuals, 46; fragrant, 72; self-
sowing, 47, 61; showiest in blue,
pink, red, yellow and white, 84, 85,
86, 87; sowing in hotbed, 51; best
way to start, 52, 53

Anthemis cotula, Dog-Fennel, 202

289

Index

Anthemis tinctoria, Chamonile, 237

Antirrhinum majus, Snapdragon,
190, 206, 239, 244, 280, 284

Aphis, blue, 132

Aquilegia Calif or nica, California
Columbine, 231; A. c&rulea, Long
Spurred Columbine, 212; A.
Canadensis, Rock or Wild Colum-
bine, 231, 273; A. chrysantha,
Spurred Columbine, 169, 231;
A. J&tschui, 231; A. Olympia,
212; A. Skinneri, Mexican Colum-
bine, 273; A. vulgaris, Common
Garden Columbine, 212, 249, 273

Arabis albida, Rock Cress, 168, 171;
A. alpina, Alpine Rock Cress, 171

Aralia spinosa, Angelica Tree, 191;
A. Chinensis, see Dimorphanthus

Arbor, 46; seat, 14

Archangelica, Angelica archangelica,
88, 89, 178

Arctotis grandis, African Daisy, 200

Argemone Mexicanum, Mexican
Poppy, 200

Armeria cephalotes, Thrift, 183; A.
elongata, 254; A. plantaginea,
Plantain-leaved Armeria, 254; A.
vulgaris, Common Thrift, 254

Arrowwood, see Snowball

Artemesia Abrotanum, Boy Love,
78, 184; A. annua, Sweet Fern,
78, 207, 208

Artichoke, Jerusalem, Helianthus
tuberosa, 241

Asclepias tuberosa, Butterfly Weed,

237
Ash, Mountain, Sorbus Americana,

*73

Ashes, wood, 55, 129, 132
Asperula azurea setosa, Blue Asper-

ula, 224; A. hexaphylla, 113, 178;

A. odorata, Sweet Woodruff, 168,

172
Asphodel, White, Asphodelus albus,

108; Yellow, Asphodeline lutea,

233
Asphodeline lutea, Yellow Asphodel,

233
Asphodelus albus, White Asphodel,

168
Aster, Alpine, A. alpinus, 223;

native white, A. paniculatus, 44,

196; New England, A. Novce-

Anglice, 223, 265; A. Novi-Belgii,

223; Michaelmas Daisy, A. trade-

scanti, 223
Aster alpinus, Alpine Aster, 223;

A. Nova-Anglic, New England

Aster, 223, 265; A. Novi-Belgii,

223; A. paniculatus, Native White

Aster, 44, 196; A. tradescanti,

Michaelmas Daisy, 223
Aster, China, Callistephus Chinensis,

200, 226, 266, 283
Aubretia, A. deltoides, 211, 272
Aubretia deltoides, Aubretia, 211,

272
Auratum Lily, Lilium auratum,

in; disease of, 132; 194
Australian Star Flower, Cephalip-

terum Drummondii, 267
Autumn color in perennials, 79; in

shrubs, 80

Avens, Geum Shilcensis, 278
Average woman, 2
Awning, 40
Azalea, smooth, A. mollis, 166;

tree, A. arbor escens, 251; A.

vaseyi, 247
Azalea arborescens, Tree Azalea,

251; A. mollis, Smooth Azalea,

166; A. vaseyi, 247

Baby Blue Eyes, Nemophila insignis,

225
Baby's Breath, Gypsophila panicu-

lata, 184, 185; Galium Mollugo,

185

Baby show in South, 136
Bachelor's Button, see Cornflower
Bacon, Lord, 145
Balm, see Bee Balm
Balsam, Impatiens Balsamina, 201,

267, 283

Baptisia, B. australis, 217
Barbarea vulgaris, Yellow Rocket,

235

Barberry, Common, Berberis vul-
garis, 232; Japanese, B. Thun-
bergii, 232; purple-leaved, B.
vulgaris, var. atropurpurea, 80,
232

Bartonia, Mentzlia Lindleyi, 242
Bean, Hyacinth, Dolichos lablab,
220; scarlet, Phaseolus multiflorus,
283

Index

291

Beauty, perfect examples of, 154

Beard Tongue, Pentstemon acumina-
tus, 220

Bear Grass, see Yucca

Bed, nursery, 57; preparing 4, 5

Beds, annual seed, 52, 53

Bedstraw, Northern, Galium boreale,
178; Lady's, G. verum, 233;
white, G. Mollugo, 185

Bee Balm, Monarda didyma, 278

Beech, Purple-leaved, Fagus sylva-
tica, var. purpurea, 80

Bees, 128; bumble bees in holly-
hocks, 128

Beetle, aster, 127; oil, 126; rose, 124,
125

Beetle, May, 54, 55

Bellflower, see Campanula

Bellflower, Japanese, see Platycodon

Bellls perennis, English Daisy, 58,
169

Belvedere, Kochia scoparia, 78; K.
tricophila, 78

Berberis vulgaris, Common Bar-
berry, 232; var. atropurpurea,
Purple-leaved Barberry, 80, 232;
B. Thunbergii, Japanese Bar-
berry, 232

Bibio fly, 120

Bignonia radicans, Trumpet Creep-
er, 280

Bittersweet, Climbing, Celastrus,
scandens, 233, 278

Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta,

237
Blanket Flower, see Gaillardia, 233,

242, 294

Blazing Star, see Liatris
Bleeding Heart, Dicentra spectabilis,

249
Blight, aster, 132; larkspur, 114;

Government remedy for larkspur,

129; my remedy for, 130; Physos-

tegia, 131, 132; carnation, 132
Bloom, length of, 36; succession of,

9, 33; in blue beds, 34~36
Blooming, record of, 37
Blue annuals, 35, 224-229; edging

plants, 82-83
Blue and white combinations, 35,

36
Blue beds, 34; difficulties of, 35;

white flowers in, 35

Bluebells, see Lungwort

Bluebells of Scotland, see Harebell

Blue-eyed Grass, Sisyrinchium an-

gustifolium, 214
Bluets, see Houstonia
Blue Flowers, 210-229
Blue Perennials, 210-211, 211-216,

217-221, 222, 223-224
Blue Shrubs, 211, 221-222, 223
Blue Succory, see Catananche
Blue spring flowers, 36
Bocconia, B. cordata, 185
Boltonia, B. asteroides, 103, 197;

B. l&vigata, 265; B. latisquama,

223

Boneset, see Thoroughwort
Book of Wisdom, 146, 147
Bordeaux mixture, 130; formula

for, 129
Border plants for succession of

bloom, 82

Botanical names, use of, 70; mean-
ing of, 70
Bouncing Bet, Saponaria ojficinalis,

263
Bowman's Root, Gillenia trifoliata,

254
Boy Love, Artemesia Abrotanum,

78, 184,
Bridal Wreath, Spirea prunifolia,

166
Broom, Scotch, Cytisus scoparius,

232; see Dyer's Greenwood
Brotherhood in forest, 113; in

Nature, 132

Browallia, B. demissa, 228
Browne, Sir Thomas, 59
Buddleya Lindleyana, 221
Bug, potato, 23, 126, 127
Burning Bush, Euonymous atropur-

pureus, So, 216
Bush Honeysuckle, see Honeysuckle,

Bush
Buttercup, Gold Cup, Ranunculus

bulbosus, 234; tall, R. acris pi. fl.,

234 >

Butterflies, 119
Butterfly Flower, Gaura Lind-

heimeri, 187, 202, 267, 269
Butterfly Flower, Schizanthus Wi-

setonensis, 269
Butterfly Weed, Asclepias tuber osat

237

292

Index

Cacalia, see Tassel Flower
Calendula, Pot Marigold, C. offici-

nalis, 242
California Poppy, see Eschscholtzia,

198, 242

Calimeris, Cut-leaved, C. incisa, 217
Calandrinia, C. Menziesii, 198
Calliopsis, see Coreopsis
Callirrhoe, 58; Poppy mallow, C. in-

volucrata, 278
Callistephus Chinensis, China Aster,

200, 226, 266, 267, 283
Callomia, Gilia coccinea, 283
Calycanthus floridus, Sweet-scented

Shrub, 273
Calystegia pubescens, C. Californica,

Japanese Rose, 254
Camass, Giant, Camassia cusicki,

211
Camassia cusicki, Giant Camass,

211

Camera, 134; first use of, 136-137
Campanula, Bellflower, C. Car-

patica, 214; C. glomerata, 214; C.

Mariesi, 185; C. medium, Canter-
bury Bells, 185, 217; C. rapuncu-

loides, 185, 214; C. rotundifolia,

Harebell, 219; C. persicifolia, 185,

214; C. turbinata, 185, 214
Campion, Alpine, Lychnis alpina,

249; Rose, Agrostemma cceli-rosa,

266
Canary Bird Flower, Tropaolum

perigrinum, 243
Candytuft, Evergreen, Iberis semper-

virens, 168; annual, Iberis um-

bellata, 198, 226, 266
Canna, C. Ehemanni, 192, 240, 258,

263, 278
Canna Ehemanni, Canna, 192, 240,

258, 263, 278

Canterbury Bells, Campanula me-
dium, 185, 217, 259, 260
Caraway, Garden, Carum carui,

178
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis,

75, 278, 279

Carnation, see Pink; blight, 132
Carrot, Wild, Daucus carrota, 190
Carum carui, Caraway, 178
Caryopteris mastacanthus, Blue

Spirea, 212
Catalogues, 2, 12, 13

Catananche, Cupid's Dart, C. cceru-
lea, 21 7; C. bicolor, 217

Catchfly, Sweet-William, Silene
Armeria, 201, 269; Autumn, 5.
shafta, 254, 277; S. pendula, 267;
5. compacta, 267

Cats, 121

Celastrus scandens, Bitter-sweet,
Climbing, 233

Celosia plumosa, Cockscomb, 207,
244, 283; C. cristata, 244; C.
spicata, 267

Centaurea moschata, Sweet Sultan,
199, 225, 243; C. nigra, Mountain
Knapweed, 215; C. cyanus, Corn-
flower, 201, 224, 267

Centaury, see Sabbatia

Centranthus albus, 201, 267; C.
ruber, 258, 277

Cephalipterum Drummondii, Aus-
tralian Star Flower, 267

Ceratostigama plumbaginoides, Lead-
wort, Plumbago, 224

Cercis Canadensis, Red Bud, Judas
Tree, 273; C, Chinensis, Chinese
Red Bud, 273

Chamomile, Anthemis tinctoria, 237

Chance combinations, 33, 44, 45

Chaste Tree, Vitex agnus-castus, 221

Cheese cloth coverings from frost,
53; frames, 57; awning for beds, 58

Chelone, Turtle Head, C. Lyoni, 260

Cherokee Rose, 101

Chieranthus cheiri, Wallflower, 286

Chionanthus Virginicus, White
Fringe, 166

Chrysanthemum, Hardy, C. siense,
242, 266, 282; pompon, C. Indi-
cum, 265, 282

Chrysanthemum coccineum, Pyreth-
rum, 257; C. frutescens, Paris
Daisy, 178; C. Indicum, Pompon
Chrysanthemum, 265, 282; C.
leucanthemum, Wild White Daisy,
119; C. latifolium, 186; C. maxi-
mum, 1 86; C. parthenium, Fever-
few, 1 68; C. siense, Hardy Chrys-
anthemum, 242, 266, 282; C.
uliginosum, Great Ox-Eye Daisy,
186

City bred, the, 46

Clarkia puchella, 201, 224; C.
elegans, 266, 283

Index

293

Clematis, Jackman's, C. Jackmanni,
131, 185, 217, 218, 254, 279; erect,
C. recta, 178; Japanese, C. panicu-
lata, 67, 197; heavy-scented, C.
orientalis, C. gravolens, 238; red,
or Leather Flower, C. Viorna, var.
coccinea, 279; wild, or Traveler's
Joy, C. Virginiana, 190

Clematis coccinea, Jackman's Red
Clematis, 254; C. recta, Erect
Clematis, 178; C. Jackmanni,
Jackman's Clematis, 131, 185,
217, 218, 254, 279; C. gravolens,
Heavy-scented Clematis, 238; C.
Heraclafolia, var. Davidiana, 218;
C. integrifolia, 218; C. orientalis,
see C. gravolens; C. paniculata,
Japanese Clematis, 67, 197; C.
Virginiana, Wild Clematis or
Traveler's Joy, 190; C. viorna,
var. coccinea, Red Clematis or
Leather Flower, 279

Cleome pungens, Spider Plant, 201

Clethra alnifolia, Sweet Pepper
Bush, 184

Close planting, 102, 103

Cockscomb, Celosia cristata, 244;
C. plumosa, 244, 283; C. spicata,
267

Cold frame, 56

Collinsia, C. bicolor, 226

Color code for marking seeds, 63

Color effects, arranging for, 37; in
shrubs, 80, 81; plants for general,
37 ^schemes, arranging, 74; sepa-
rating, 74

Color, pure, 34; wave of, 36, 61, 62;
of stems, 62; autumn, in peren-
nials, 99; autumn color in shrubs,
79, 80; sheets of, 145; keynote of,
in a garden, 146; my love of, 154;
classification by, 163

Columbine, California, Aquilegia
Calif ornica, 231; common, A.
vulgaris, 212, 249, 273; rock or
wild, A. Canadensis, 273; Mexi-
can, A. Skinneri, 273; spurred, A.
chrysantha, 169, 231; long-spurred,
A. ccerulea, 212; A. Jaetschui, 231;
A. Olympica, 212

Combinations, blue and white, 35,
36; chance, 38; successful, 87, 88;
white in, 88

Commelina, C. coslestis, 215, 229; C.

erecta, 228

Compost heap, 31, 55, 93, 121
Cone Flower, see Rudbeckia hirta,

237
Convallaria majalis, Lily of the

Valley, 170

Copper sulphate, 129, 131
Convolvulus, Dwarf, C. tricolor or

C. minor, 224

Convolvulus tricolor, Dwarf Con-
volvulus, 224; C. Japonica, see

Calystegia, 254
Coral Bells, Heuchera sanguinea,

279
Coreopsis, Tickseed, C. lanceolata,

234; Golden Wave, C. Drum-

mondii, 243
Corn-flower, Centaur ea Cyanus, 201,

224, 267
Cornus florida, Flowering Dogwood,

172; C. paniculata, Dogwood,

panicled, 184

Coronilla varia, Crown Vetch, 260
Corylus purpureus, Purple Hazel, 81
Cosmos, early, C. bipinnatus, 22,

185, 267, 271, 283; tall, as a back-
ground, 79; as a house plant, 79,

208
Cosmos bipinnatus, Cosmos, 22, 185,

208, 267, 271, 283
Crab Apple, Japanese, Pyrus flori-

bunda, 248
Crape Myrtle, Lagerstrcemia Indica,

Crat(Bgus coccinea, Scarlet Thorn,

168

Crickets, 56
Crocus, C. vernis, 165, 210; Cloth of

Gold, C. susianus, 230; Dutch, C.

masiacus, 230
Crocus vernis, Crocus, 165, 210, 230;

C. susianus, Cloth of Gold, 230;

C. masiacus, Dutch Crocus, 230
Cross fertilization, 116
Crosswort,* Crucienella stylosa, 254
Crown Imperial, Frittilaria im-

perialis, 275

Crown Vetch, Coronilla varia, 260
Crucienella stylosa, Crosswort, 254
Cutting back tall plants, 103
Cuttings, propagation by, 97, 98
Cutworms, 55, 120

294

Index

Cyclamen, Autumn -flowering, Sow-
bread, C. Europaum, 263

Cydonia Japonica, Japan Quince,
272, 273

Cynoglossum, Omphaloides linifolia,
198, 224

Cypress Vine, ipomea quamodit,
285

Cytisus scoparius, Scotch Broom,
232

Daffodil, see Narcissus

Dahlia, D. variabilis, 197, 240, 263,
281

Dahlia variabilis , Dahlia, 197, 240,
263, 281

Daisy, English, Bellis perennis, 58,
169; Paris, Chrysanthemum frutes-
cens, 178; wild white, C. leucan-
themum, 179; Great Ox-eye, C.
uliginosum, 186

Damping off, 30, 57

Datura, D. arborea, 202; D. meta-
loides, 245

Daucus carrota, Wild Carrot, 190

Day Lily, Japan, Funkia subcordata,
192; blue, Funkia ovata, 222

Delphinium consolida, Branching
Larkspur, 203, 229; D. Ajacis,
Rocket Larkspur, 203, 229, 268,
270; D. elatum, Bee Larkspur, 219;
D. formosum, Showy Larkspur,
219; D. formosum, var. c&lesti-
num, Azure Blue Larkspur, 219;
D. grandiftorum, Great-flowered
Larkspur, 219; D. grandiftorum,
var. album, White Larkspur, 187

Desmodium penduliflorum, see
Lespedeza, 223, 264

Deutzia, Slender, D. gracilis, 166;
D. Lemoinei, 166, 231

Dianthus barbatus, Sweet-William,
183, 258, 277; D. casius, Cliff
Pink, 256; D. caryophyllus, Carna-
tion Pink, 182, 256, 276; D.
Chinensis, 276; D. cruentus, 65;
D. Heddewigii, Japanese Pink,
182, 205, 256; D. plumarius,
Hardy Garden Pink, Pheasant's
Eye, Feather Pink, 182, 257

Dicentra spectabilis, Bleeding Heart,
249

Dictamnus fraxinella, Fraxinella,

186, 187; D. albus, var. rosea,
260

Diervilla Jlorida, see Weigelia, 177,
251; D. sessilifolia, Bush Honey-
suckle, 230

Difficulties of stone heap, 15
Digitalis alba, White Foxglove, 58,
179; D. pur pur ea, Red Foxglove,
276; D. purpurea, var. gloxina-
flora, Gloxinia-throated Foxglove,
255; D. lantana, Woolly Foxglove,
186

Dimorphanthus Mandschuricus, 191
Distance between plants, 101, 102
Dodecatheon media, Shooting Star,

!°3> 179

Dog-fennel, Anthemis Cotula, 202
Dogs in a Garden, 121
Dogwood, Flowering, Cornus Jlorida,

172; panicled, C, paniculata, 184
Dolichos lablab, Hyacinth Bean, 226,

235
Doronicum Caucasicum, Leopard's

Bane, 234
Dracocephalum, D. Rhyschianium,

218

Dropwort, Spireafilipendula, 179
Drought, effects of, 7
Drudgery, 157
Dry bed, 8; plants for, 8
Dyer's Greenwood, Broom, Genista

tinctoria, 232, 233

Early efforts in gardening, 3, 4
Edging plants, blue, 82, 83; pink,

83; red, 83; yellow, 83, 84
Edgings for bed, 20
Eel worm, 131
Eglantine, see Sweet Brier
Egyptian Bean, see Bean, Hyacinth
El&agnus longipes, Oleaster, 236; E.

umbellatus, 236; E. parvifolius or

E. argentea, Silver Berry, Silver

Tree or Thorn, 81, 236
Elder, Golden, Sambucus nigra, var.

aurea, So, 81
Elderberry, Sambucus Canadensis,

184

Elizabeth Eliza Peterkin, 135
Emilia sonchifolia, Tassel Flower,

283, 285
Encyclopaedias as family records,

151, 152

Index

295

English Daisy, Bellis perennis, 58,

169

Enthusiasm, effect of, 38, 39
Eremurus robustus, 64, 65, 249
Erigeron glaucus, Fleabane, 222
Erigonum umbellatum, 238
Eritrichium nothofulvum, 202
Eryngium amethystinum, Sea Holly,

220
Erysimum, Hedge Mustard, E.

puchellum, 231; E. Perofskinanum,

245

Erysimum puchellum, Hedge Mus-
tard, 231

Eschscholtzia, California Poppy, E.
Calif arnica, 198, 242, 267

Eucharidium concinnum, 202

Euonymous atropurpureus, Burning
Bush, 80, 216

Eupatorium ageratoides, White
Snakeroot, 195; E. ccelestinum,
218; E. perfoliatum, Thorough-
wort, IQI; E. purpureum, Toe-Pye
Weed, 263

Euphorbia corollata, Flowering
Spurge, 186; E. heterophylla, Mexi-
can Fire, 69; E. pulcherrima,
Poinsettia, 69

Eutoca, E, viscida, or Phacelia vis-
cida, 224.

Evening Primrose, (Enothera acaulis,
202; O. biennis, 238; O. Missouri-
ensis, 238

Everlasting, Pearly, see Immortelle,
194

Evil, sources of, 107

Exchange of plants, 10

Exercise, value of, 8, 156

Exochorda grandiflora, Pearl Bush,
167

Exposure, southern, 90

Fagus sylvatica, var. purpurea,

Beech, Purple-leaved, 80
Fall Dandelion, see Hawkbit
False Indigo, see Baptisia, 217;

A morpha fruticosa, 216
False Miterwort, see Foam Flower,

179

False taste in parks, 73
Fennel Flower, see Nigella, 204,

227
Fenzlia, Cilia dianthoides, 268

Ferns, 75; transplanting, 75; with
Oriental Poppy, 87, 88, 257

Feverfew, Chrysanthemum parthe-
nium, 1 86

Fire Pink, Silene Virginica, 276

Flame Flower, see Tritoma, 281

Flax, Golden, Linum flavum, 234;
scarlet, Linum grandiflorum, 182

Fleabane, Erigeron glaucus, 222

Flies, biting stems, 128

Flowering Almond, Prunus Japon-
ica, 166; var. rosea, 247

Flowers closing at night, 89; opening
at night, 89; closing in sun, 89;
cutting, 147; cut, 156; vulgar
effects in, 69

Foam Flower, Tiarella cordifolia,
179

Foliage, stripping off large, 102

Forces, use of, 141

Forcing house, substitute for, 31

Forest Trees, 56, 57; secret purpose
of, 113; showing twining propen-
sities, 114

Forget-me-not, Myosotis alpestris,
169, 212, 250; M. palustris, 212;
var. semper flor ens, 212; M. semper -
wrens, 226

Forsythia, F. viridissima, 230;
Weeping, F. suspensa, 230

Forsythia viridissima, Golden Bell,
230; F. suspensa, Weeping For-
sythia, 230

Foxglove, White, Digitalis alba,
58, 179; red, D. purpurea, 276;
woolly, D. lantana, 186; Gloxinia-
throated, D. purpurea gloxinia-
flora, 254

Fragrance in garden, 27, 71; of
foliage, 69; near rustic seat, 45

Fragrant annuals, 73; herbs, 78;
perennials, 72; shrubs, 72; vines,
72

Fragrant Evening Stock, Matthiola
odoratissima or M. bicornis, 225

Fraxinella,* Dictamnus fraxinella,
186, 187, 250; D. albus, var. roseaf
260

Friendship offerings, 10

Fringe Flower, Schizanthus bipin-
natus, 206, 228

Fringe, White, Chionanthus Vir-
ginicus, 166

296

Index

Fritittaria imperialis, Crown Impe-
rial, 275

Frosts, effects on house-bred seed-
lings, 32; protection against, 53

Fugi-yama, 91

Funkia subcordaia, Japan Day Lily,
192; F. ovata, Blue Day Lily, 222

Gaillardia, Blanket Flower, G.

aristata, 237, 238; G. picta, 242;

G. puchella, 285

Galanthus nivalis, Snowdrop, 165
Galgea, G. qfficinalis, 179, 180,

215

Galium boreale, Northern Bedstraw,
178; G. Mollugo, Baby's Breath,
185; G. vernum, Lady's Bedstraw,

233

Galtonia, Summer Hyacinth, Hya-
cinthus candicans, 180

Garden, a choice, 109; adding to, 90;
apologies for, 153; authors', i;
arrangement of, 33; average,
147; background of, 14; diagrams
for, 14; exercise in, 8, 156, experi-
mental, 151; extension of, 27;
latest, extension of, 142, 143;
arrangement of plants in, 143;
facing west, 81; family history
in, 152; first idea of, 13; first size
of, 21; real flower of, 158, 159;
fragrance of, 24, 71; green in, 73,
74; green in winter, 42; keynote
of color in, 146; lady in, 27, 28,
29; latitude of, 164; lay of, 17;
neglect of, 26, 116; night aspects
of, 143; relating garden to house,
91; requirements of, 12; studying,
141, 142, 159; present size of,
89; single specimens in, 153;
soul of my, 150, 160; time given
to, 89, 90; varied conditions in,
33; walking in, 25

Gardener, tests of, 119; conven-
tional, 145; too generous, 147;
conservative, 150

Garden Heliotrope, Valeriana offi-
cinalis, 113, 180

Gardening, 68; in Minnesota, 12;
defense of my aim in, 151, 155

Garden site, advantages of, 16

Gas Plant, see Fraxinella

Gathering seeds, 63

Gaura Lindheimeri, Butterfly Flower,
65, 113, 202

Genista tinctoria, Dyer's Green-
wood, 232, 233

Gentian, Closed, Gentiana A ndrewsii,
218; fringed, G. crinala, 60, 218;
white, G. alba, 192

Gentiana crinata, Fringed Gentian,
60, 218; G. alba. White Gentian,
192; G. Andrewsii, Closed Gen-
tian, 218

Gerardia, G. tenufolia, 260

Geum Chilcensis, var. atrosangui-
neum, Avens, 278

Gilia, G. achillecefolia, 226; G. an-
drosea, Leptosophon, 207; G. capi-
tata, 226; G. tricolor, 226; G. dian-
thoides, Fenzlia, 268; G. coccinea,
Collomia, 283

Gillenia trifoliata, Bowman's Root,
254

Gillyflower, see Stock

Gingko Tree, Salisburia adianti-
folia and G. Biloba, 79

Gladiolus, ^ G. Childsii, 192; G.
Lemoinei, 240, 263, 221

Gladiolus Childsii, 192, 263; C.
Lemoinei, 240, 263, 281

Globe Daisy, Globularia tricosantha,

212

Globe Flower, Trollius Asiaticus,

234
Globularia tricosantha, Globe Daisy,

212

Gloves, 29

Gloxinia, Hardy, see Incarvillea, 255

Gluttonous visitors, 148

Goat's Beard, Spirea Aruncus, 180

Goat's Rue, see Galega, 179, 180

Godetia amcena, Satin Flower, 202,

268, 284
Golden Glow, Rudbeckia laciniata

plfl., 238

Goldenrod, Solidago juncea, 238
Golden Wave, Coreopsis Drum-

mondii, 243
Goutweed, JEgopodium podograrium,

180

Grasshoppers, 57
Green, use of, in garden, 73
Ground covers, annuals as, 76; for

beds, 76; Shirley poppies as, 76, 77
Grubs, white, 54, 55, 118

Index

297

Guelder Rose, see Snowball Tree,

176
Gypsophila, Baby's Breath, G.

paniculata, 185; Steven's, G.

Steveni, G. glauca, 187 ; annual, G.

elegans, 198
Gypsophila paniculata, Baby's

Breath, 185; G. Steveni, Steven's

Gypsophila (G. glauca), 187; G.

elegans, Annual Gypsophila, 198

Halesia tetraptera, Snowdrop Tree,

167

Hardback, see Steeple Bush, 262
Harebell, Bluebell of Scotland,

Campanula rotundifolia, 219
Hawkbit, Leoniodon autumnale, 276
Hazel, Purple, Corylus purpureus,

81

Heart's-Ease, see Pansy, Viola tri-
color, 210

Hedge Mustard, see Mustard, Hedge
Hedge Nettle, Stachys lantana,

219
Hedysarum coronarium, French

Honeysuckle, 279
Helen Flower, Helenium autumnale

superbum, 103, 240
Helenium autumnale superbum,

Helen Flower, 103, 240
Helianthemum, Rock Rose, H.

mutabile, 180, 258; Sun Rose, H.

alpestre, 234
Helianthus, Sunflower, 103, 245; H.

mollis, Smooth Sunflower, 67,

241; H. decapetalus multiflorus,

241; H. latiftorus, 241; H.

orgy alls, Graceful Sunflower, 241;

H. tuberosa, Jerusalem Artichoke,

241
Heliopsis lavis, False Sunflower,

Pitcher's Ox-Eye, 239
Heliotrope, Garden, see Garden

Heliotrope, 180
Helipterum Manglesii, Rhodanthe,

205, 269

Hellebore, white, 126
Hemerocallis flava, Yellow Day

Lily, 234
Hercules Club, sec Angelica Tree,

191
Hesperis matronalis, Sweet Rocket,

65, 185, 215

Heuchera sanguinea, Coral Bells,
279

Hibiscus Swamp Rose Mallow, H.
moscheutos, 193

Hibiscus moscheutos, Hibiscus or
Rose Mallow Swamp, 263; H.
Syriacus, Rose Mallow, 264, 265

Hobblebush, Viburnum lantanoides,
172

Hollyhock, Althea rosea, var. alba,
193, 240, 260, 279

Hollyhock, 9, 23, 44, 240; bumble
bees in, 128; rust, 114, 129-130;
permanganate of potassium for
rust, 130; Bordeaux mixture for,
130

Honesty, Lunaria biennis, 69, 212

Honeysuckle, 97; Bush or Upright,
Dieruilla sessilifolia, 230; Fra-
grant Bush Honeysuckle, Lonicera
fragrantissima, 248; Japanese,
Lonicera Japonica (L. Halliana),
236; French, Hedysarum corona-
rium, 279; Scarlet, Lonicera sem-
pervirens, 274; Sweet-scented, Low j-
ceraPericlymenum, 239; Tartarian,
L. Tartarica, 248

Hop Hornbeam, Ostrya Virginica,
80

Hop Vine, Humulus lupulus, 26,

Hotbed for annuals, 51; for perennial
seeds, 54; making, 49; roots in,

57

Houstonia, H. carulea, 212
Humulus lupulus, Hop Vine, 26,

45,77

Hunnemannia, Tulip Poppy, H.
fumariafolia, 238

Hunnemannia fumaricefolia, Tulip
Poppy, 238

Hyacinth, Hyacinthus orientalis,
169, 231, 247, 273; Roman, H.
albulus, 170; Summer, H. candi-
eans, 65, 180; Grape, Muscari
botryoides*, 212

Hyacinthus candicans, Summer Hy-
acinth, 65, 180; H. orientalis,
Common Hyacinth, 169, 170,
210, 231, 247, 273; H. albulus,
Roman Hyacinth, 170

Hydrangea, H. paniculata, 191

Hypericum, St. John's Wort, H.

298

Index

Ascryon, Great St. John's Wort,
239; H. Aureum; Golden St.
-John's Wort, 239; H. calycinum,
237; H. densiflorum, 237; H.
Moserianum, 237; H. patulum,
Shrubby St. John's Wort, 240; H.
perforatum, Common St. John's
Wort, 239; H . prolificum, 237

Iberis sempervirens, Evergreen Can-
dytuft, 1 68; 7. umbellata, Candy-
• tuft, Common, 198, 226, 266
Iceland Poppy, Papaver nudicaule,

169, 231

Ice Plant, Mesembryanthemum crys-
lallinum, 203

Idea, original, 18

Identifying plants, 65; by stem or
leaf, 66

Immortelle, Anaphalis margaritacea,
194

Impatiens Balsamina, Balsam, 201,
267, 283

Incarvillea Delavayi, Hardy Glox-
inia, 88, 103, 255

Indigo, False, Amorpha fruticosa,
216

Ipomea Bona-nox, Moonflower, 204;
7. Imperialis, Japanese Morning-
Glory, 225; 7. purpurea, Morning-
Glory, 204, 266; 7. quamodit,
Cypress Vine, 285

Iris, 9; English 7. xiphoides, 180,
215; German, 7. Germanica, 88,

170, 212, 231, 234, 250; Japanese,
7. Icevigata, 187, 219, 239, 260;
Siberian, 7. Sibirica, 215; Spanish,
7. Xiphium, 181, 215, 234

Iris, 88, 170, 180, 181; Iris Ger-
manica, German Iris, 88, 170,
.212, 231, 234, 250; /. xiphoides,
English Iris, 180, 215; 7. Xiphium,
Spanish Iris, 181, 215, 234, 235;
7. Icevigata, Japanese Iris, 187,
219, 239, 260; 7. Sibirica, Siberian
Iris, 215

Irish ancestor, 24, 28

Italian May, see St. Peter's Wreath,
231, 250

Itea Virginica, 80, 173

Ivory soap for lice, 127, for general
insecticide, 130, for hollyhocks
and larkspurs, 130

Jack in the Bush, see Nigella, 204,

227
Jacob's Ladder, Polemonium cceru-

leum, 213

Japanese effect, 44
Japanese Lantern Plant, Physalis

Francheti, 69, 281
Japanese Plume, Poppy, see Bocco-

nia, 185
Japanese Rose, Calystegia pubescent

Japanese Rose, see Kerria, 236
Japanese Sophora, see Pagoda Tree,

196

Jew's Mallow, see Kerria, 236
Joe-Pye Weed, Eupatorium pur-

pureum, 263
Judas Tree, Red Bud, Cercis Cana-

densis, 273

Juneberry, see Shad Bush, 167
Jupiter's Beard, see Valerian, 258,

277

Kalmia latifolia, Mountain Laurel,

258, 259; K. angustifolia, Sheep

Laurel, 259
Kerosene, 125, 126, 127; emulsion,

127

Kerria, K. Japonica, 236
Knapweed, Mountain, Centaurea

nigra, 215
Kochia scoparia, Belvedere, 78; K.

tricophila, 78

Labrador Tea, Ledum latifolium, 173

Lady's Delight, see Heart's Ease, 210

Lagerstrcemia Indica, Crape Myrtle,
263

Lancaster Rose, 6, 274

Larkspur, blight, 114, 129; Govern-
ment remedy for, 129; my remedy
for, 130; crown rot in, 129

Larkspur, Bee, Delphinium elatum,
219; Branching, D. consolida, 203,
229; Great-flowered, D. grandi-
fiorum, 219; Red, D. nudicaule,
279; Rocket, D. Ajacis, 203, 229,
268, 270; Showy, D. formosum,
219; Azure Blue, D. formosum, var.
ecelestinum, 219; White, D. grandi*
fiorum, var. album, 287; Yellow,
7). Zalil, 239

Lasthenia, L. glaberata, 245

Index

299

Lathyrus latifolius, Perennial Pea,

189, 261, 280
Lathyrus odoratus, Sweet-Pea, 206,

228, 244, 269, 284
Lattice of laths, 58
Laurel, Mountain, Kalmia latifolia,

258, 259; Sheep, K. angustifolia,

259

Lavatera trimestris, 203, 268

Lavender, Lavendula vera, 219

Lavendula vera, Lavender, 219

Lawn, spotting a, n

Layering, 96, 97

Layia Calliglossa, Oxyura, 244

Lead Plant, Amorpha canescens, 81,
221

Leadwort, Ceratostigama plumbagin-
' oides, 224

Leather Flower, Clematis Viorna,
var. coccinea, 279

Leaves in autumn, 56; seed, 66; suc-
culent, 66; woolly, 66

Ledum latifolium, Labrador Tea, 173

Leontodon autumnale, Hawkbit, 276

Leopard's Bane, Doronicum Cau-
casicum, 234, 235

Leptosophon, Gilia androsea, 207

Lespedeza Sieboldi, Bush Clover, 223,
264

Leucothoe Catesbai, 167

Liatris, 103; L. pycnostachya, 219;
L. spicata, 223; L. scariosa, 280

Lifting Perennials, 74; Shrubs, 75;
time for, plants, 98

Lilac, Common, Syringa vulgaris,
211, 248; Persian, Syringa Persica,
21 1 ; White, Syringa vulgaris, var.
alba, 167

Lilies, fastidious, 109

Liliunt auratum, in; disease of, 132;
remedy for, 132, 194; L. Cana-
dense, Native Red Lily, 276; L.
candidum, Madonna Lily, in;
cause of disease of, and remedy,
132, 188; L. Batemanni, Bate-
man's Lily, 239, 263; L. Krameri,
Kramer's Lily, 264; L. davuricum,
Dahrian Lily, 276; L. speciosum,
var. album, White, 67, 194; var.
roseum, Pink speciosum, 264; L.
tenufolium, Siberian Lily, 281

Lily, Auratum, Lilium auratum, in,
132, 194; Dahurian, Lilium davu-

ricum, 276; Day, Yellow, Hemero-
cattisfla'ua, 234; Day Lily, Japan,
Funkia subcordata, 192; Madonna,
Lilium candidum, 188; Native red,
Lilium Canadense, 276; Plantain,
see Funkia; Siberian, Lilium tenu-
folium, 281; White Speciosum, L.
speciosum album, 67, 194; Pink
Speciosum, L. speciosum roseum,
264; Bateman's L. fulgens, var.
Batemanni, 237, 264; Kramer's
L. Krcemeri, 264

Lily of the Valley, Convallaria maja-
lis, 170

Lime, 128, 129; for rose bed, 126;
in Bordeaux mixture, 130; for
mildew, 131, 132

Limnanthes, L. Douglasii, 245

Linaria alpina, Alpine Snapdragon,
219; L. maroccana, Toadflax, 226

Linum fiavum, Golden Flax, 234;
L. grandiftorum, Scarlet Flax, 282

Live Oak in Florida, 82

Loam, 92

Lobelia, Great, L. syphilitica, 222;
L. erinus, 229

Locust Tree, Robinia pseudacacia,

173

Lonicera, Honeysuckle, 97; L. fra-
grantissima, Fragrant Bush Hon-
eysuckle, 248; L. Japonica (L.
Hattiana), Japanese Honeysuckle,
236; L. Periclymenum, Sweet-
scented Honeysuckle, 236; L.
sempervirens, Scarlet Honeysuckle,
274; L. Tartarica, Tartarian
Honeysuckle, 248

Loosestrife, Rosy, Lythrum roseum
superbum, 65; Spiked, L. salicaria,
279

Louse, Green, 127

Love in a Mist, see Nigella, 204, 227

Lunaria biennis, Honesty, 69, 212

Lungwort, Virginia Cowslip, Merten-
sia Virginica, 210

Lupine, Lufiinus affinis, 227; Doug-
lass,!/. Douglasii, 181, 255; Sweet,
L. mutabilis, 203, 227, 268; Dwarf,
L. nanus, 227; White Many-
leaved, L. polyphyttus, 181; Blue,
215; Yellow, 235; Pink, 255

Lupinus affinis, 227; L. Douglasii,
181, 255; L. mutabilis, Sweet

300

Index

Lupine, 203, 227, 268; L. nanus,
Dwarf, 227; L. polyphyllus, Many-
leaved Lupine, 181, 215, 235, 255

Lychnis, Alpine Campion, L. alpina,
249; Day-blooming or Early Red,
L. dioica rosea, 250; L. Chalcedon-
ica, Scarlet or Maltese Cross, 273;
Red, Agrostemma coeli-rosa, 185;
Red or Mullein, L. coronaria, 67,
276; L. Flos-cuculi, Ragged Robin,
257; Viscid, L. viscaria splendens,
255; White, L. vespertina, 188

Lychnis alpina, Alpine Campion, 249;
L. Chalcedonica, Scarlet Lychnis,
273; L. coronaria, Red or Mul-
lein Lychnis, 67, 276; L. dioica
rosea, Early Red or Day-blooming
Lychnis, 250; L. Flos-cuculi, Cuc-
koo Flower, Ragged Robin, 257;
L. occulata, Blue-eyed Viscaria,
228; L. vesper tina, White Lych-
nis, 188; L. viscaria, Viscid Lych-
nis, 255

Lythrum roseum superbum, Rosy
Loosestrife, 65; L. Salicaria,
Spiked Loosestrife, 279

Madonna Lily, see Lily, Madonna
Maidenhair Fern Tree, see Gingko,

79

Mallow, Hollyhock, Malva alcea, 43,
260, 261; Musk, M. moschata,
181, 188, 261; Rose, see Hibiscus;
Swamp, see Hibiscus; Poppy, see
Callirrhoe; Tall, M. sylvestris, 260

Malope, Three-lobed, M. trifida,
203, 268

Maltese Cross, see Lychnis Chalce-
donica, 273

Malva alcea, Hollyhock Mallow, 43,
260, 261; M. moschata, Musk Mal-
low, 181, 188, 261; M. sylvestris,
Tall Mallow, 260

Man's methods, 106

Manure producing grubs, 55

Marigold, African, Tangetes erecta,
38, 243; French, T. patula, 243;
Single, T. signata, 243, 244

Marking seeds, 62; seed vessels, 62;
plants, 74

Marsh Flower, Alonsoa incisifolia,
282

Marsh Mallow, see Hibiscus, 193

Martynia, Unicorn Plant, M. fra-

grans, 227
Marvel of Peru, Mirabilis Jalapa,

285
Matthiola annua, Ten Weeks Stock,

202, 206, 228, 244, 269, 285; M.

odoratissima, Fragrant Evening

Stock, 225
May beetle, 54

Mayweed, see Dog-fennel, 202
Meadow Beauty, Rhexia Virginica,

215
Meadow-Rue, Thalictrum adianti-

folium, 181; T. cornui, 181; T.

polygonum, 181
Meadow Sweet, Spirea salicifolia,

259
Meliloius alba, Sweet Clover, 206;

M. ccerula, 228
Mentzlia Lindleyi (Bartonia aurea),

Bartonia, 242

Mertensia Virginica, Lungwort, Vir-
ginia Cowslip, 103, 210
Mesembryanthemum crystallinum,

Ice Plant, 203, 284
Mexican Fire, Euphorbia hetero-

phylla, 69; Poppy, Argemone

Mexicanum, zoo
Mice, field, 100, 124; tarred paper

for, 124

Michaelmas Daisy, see Aster, 223
Mignonette, Reseda odorata, 203, 284
Mildew, 129; cause of, 131; Bordeaux

mixture for, 131; on roses, 131;

sulphide of potassium for, 131;

sulphur and soot for, 131
Milfoil, Rosy, Achillea millefolium,

261
Milla multiflora, see Star Flower,

188, 189
Mirabilis Jalapa, Marvel of Peru,

285

Mite, white, 132
Mock Orange, see Syringa, 177
Moles, 121, 123; moth balls for, 123
Monkshood, Climbing, Aconitum

unciatum, 217; White, A. Nepal-

lus, var. alba, 188; A. Storkianum,

217
Montbretia, Tritonia Pottsii, 101,

240, 241; var. rosea, 264, 281
Moonflower, Ipomea Bona-nox, 204
Morning Glory, Ipomea purpurea,

Index

301

204, 225, 266; Japanese, /. Imperi-

alis, 225
Moss Pink, see Phlox, Creeping, 171,

213

Moth balls for moles, 123
Moth Mullein, Verbascum Blatlaria,

216, 258

Mountain Ash, see Ash, 173
Mountain Feather Fleece, Stenan-

thium robusium, 195
Mountain Fleece, Polygonum am-

plexicaule, 195
Mountain Fringe, see Allegheny

Vine, 253

Mountain Laurel, see Laurel, Moun-
tain, 258

Mountain view as a defence, 144
Mulch, 93, 98, 99; use of, 99; manure

as, 99; hay or straw as, 99; pine

boughs as, 99; coal ashes as, 100;

leaves as, 100; snow as, 100
Mullein, 23, 69; Italian, Verbascum

pannosum, 235; Moth, V. Blat-

taria, 216; V. nigrum, 236
Muscari botryoides, Grape Hyacinth,

212

Mustard, Hedge, Erysimum puchel-

lum, 231

Myrica gale, Sweet Gale, 184
Myosotis, Forget-me-not, M. alpes-

tris, 169, 212, 250; M. semper-

florens, 212; M. sempervirens, 226;

M. palustris, 212

Names, beautiful, of plants, 70; bo-
tanical, 70; meaning of specific,

70 .
Narcissus, N. pseudo-narcissus, 231,

232; Poet's, N. poeticus, 171;
double, N. poeticus, var. alba
plena, 171

Narcissus poeticus, Poet's Narcissus,
171; N. poeticus alba plena,
Double Narcissus, 171; AT", pseudo-
narcissus, Narcissus or Jonquil,
231, 232; N. jonquilla, Jonquil,
232

Nasturtium, Dwarf, Trop&olum
minus, 198, 199, 243, 268, 284;
Tall, Tropaolum majus, 204, 227,
244, 268, 284; Lobb's TropaBolum
Lobbianum, 227, 284

Nature, changes in, 140; perfect

repose in, 140, 141; nature's

methods, 104, 105, 106
Navel wort, see Cynoglossum, 198
Nemophila, Baby Blue Eyes, N.

insignis, 225; White, N. maculata,

199
Nemophila insignis, Baby Blue

Eyes, 225; N. maculata, White

Nemophila, 199
Neponset pots, 30, 52
Nicotiana, N. qffinis, 22, 23, 65, 113,

127, 204; N. alata, 204; Sander's

N. Sandera, 285
Nigella, Jack in the Bush, Little

Maiden in the Green, Love in a

Mist, N. Damascena, 204, 227
Night effects, 143
Nolana, N. atriplicifolia, 225
Nomenclature, sources of, 163
Nursery bed, 57
Nurserymen, reliable, 64, 164
Nycterinia, Zaluzianskia selaginoi-

desy 204

Obedient Plant, Physostegia Virgini-
ana, 66, 220, 261; White, P. Vir-
giniana alba, 189

CEnothera acaulis, Evening Primrose,
202; O. biennis, Common Prim-
rose, 238; O. Missouriensis, 238;
O.fruticosa, Sundrops, 238

Oil beetle, 126

Old Man, see Boy Love, 184

Oleaster, El&agnus longipes, 236; E.
umbellatus, 236; Silver Thorn, E.
parvifolius, 236

Omphaloides linifolia, Cynoglossum,
198, 224

Ononis rotundifolia, Rest Harrow,
262

Ostrya Virginica, Hop Hornbeam, 81

Oswego Tea, see Bee Balm, 278

Overcrowding plants, 45

Oxyura, Layia Calliglossa or O.
Chrysanthemoides, 244

Paonia qfficinalis, Common Paeony,
181, 215, 235, 255, 276; P. moutan,
Tree Paeony, 256; P. albqflora,

255

Paeony, Common, P&onia officinalis,
181, 215, 235, 255, 276; Tree,
Pceonia moutan, 256

302

Index

Pagoda Tree, Sophora Japonica, 196

Palava flexuosa, 270

Palifoxia, Polpyteris Hookeriana, 270

Pansy, Viola tricolor, 165, 204, 210,
227, 230, 244

Papaver Alpinum, Alpine Poppy,
232, 250; P. nudicaule, Iceland
Poppy, 169, 231; P. orientalist
Oriental Poppy, 257, 276; P.
Rhosas, Shirley Poppy, 199, 205,
269, 282; P. somniferum, Opium
Poppy, 71, 205, 227; P. somni-
ferum pi. fl., Paeony Poppy, 207,
227; var. paonajftorum, Anne
Hathaway Poppy, 268, 269

Paris green for cutworms, 120; for
potato-bugs, 126

Pasque Flower, Anemone pulsatilla,
211

Pea, Perennial, Lathyrus latifolius,
189, 261, 280

Pea, Sweet, Lathyrus odoratus, 206,
244, 269, 285

Peach, Blood-leaved, Prunus Persia,
81, 251; Japanese, P. Persica, var.
rosea plena, 248; P. Persica, var.
sanguinea, pi., 272

Pearl Bush, Exochorda grandiflora,
167

Pellitory, see Feverfew, 186

Pentstemon, 22; P. acuminatus,
Beard Tongue, 220; P. barbatus,
var. Torreyi, 280; P. campanula-
tus, 261, 270; P. grandiflorus,
220; P. ovaius, 215

Perennials, close planting, 12; deep-
rooted, 42, 43; division of, 96;
fragrant, 72; self -sowing, 60, 61;
showiest in blue, pink, red, yellow
and white, 84, 85, 86, 87; spring
blooming, 58

Perennial seeds sown in spring, 57;
planting early, 94; slow to ger-
minate, 95

Periwinkle, Vinca minor, 208, 220,
229, 270

Permanganate of potassium, 130

Petunia, White, P. nyctaginiflora,
204; P. grandiflora, 284; P.
violacea, 227, 270

Petunia grandiflora, 284; P. nycta-
giniflora, White Petunia, 204; P.
violacea, 227, 270

Phacelia Whitlavia, Phacelia, 206,

225; P. campanularia, 225
Phaseolus multiflorus, Scarlet Bean,

283

Philadelphus coronarius, Syringa,
177

Phlox, Annual, Phlox Drummondii,
205, 227, 244, 269; Creeping,
Phlox sublata, 171, 213, 250;
Perennial, Phlox paniculata, 195,
222, 264, 281; Virginia, Phlox
divaricata, 213

Phlox divaricata, Virginia Phlox,
213; P. Drummondii, Annual
Phlox, 205, 227, 244, 269; P.
paniculata, Perennial Phlox, 195,
222, 264, 281; P. sublata, Creep^
ing Phlox, 171, 213, 250

Photography, memorandum of, 137;
records of, 137; time of exposure
in, 138; Wager Scale for, 138, 139;
color filter for, 139; exposure for
colors, 139; for trees and flowers,
139; patience in, 140; conditions
observed in, 142; subjects for,
144

Physalis Francheti, Japanese Lan-
tern Plant, 69, 281

Physocarpus (Spirea) opulifolia, var.
aurea, Golden Spirea, 176

Physostegia Virginiana, Obedient
Plant, 66, 220, 261; var. alba, 189

Pink annuals, 266-271

Pink beds, 38; edging plants for, 83;
showiest annuals in, 85; showiest
perennials in, 85

Pink, Dianthus, Carnation or Clove,
Dianthus caryophyllus, 182, 256,
276; Chinese, D. Chinensis, 276;
Cliff, D. casius, 256; Garden,
Feather, D. plumarius, 182, 257;
Grass or Maiden, D. deltoides,
256, 257; Japanese, D. Hedde-
wigii, 182, 205, 256; D. cruentus,

65

Pink Flowers, 247-271
Pink, Indian, see Fire Pink, 276
Pink Perennials, 247, 249-250,

253-258, 259-262, 263-264, 265
Pink Shrubs, 247, 249, 251-253,

258-259, 262, 264-265
Pinxter Flower, Rhododendron nudi-

flora, 248

Index

303

Planter's outfit, 50

Planting early, 50

Plants, hardening, 51; identifying,
65; beautiful names of, 70; poetic
names of, 70; use of tall, 74; of
slender growth, 89; sulky, 92;
distance for setting, 101, 102;
cutting down early, 102; late in
coming up, 103; that sucker
badly, 107; distributing, 154, 155

Platycodon, Japanese Bellflower,
P. grandiftorum, 189, 220; P.
Maresi, 220; var, nana, 220

Plum, Japanese, Prunus triflora,
249; Purple-leaved, P. Pissardi,
167

Podolepis, P. arislata, 245

Polemonium caruleum, Jacob's Lad-
der, 212

Polygonum amplexicaule, Mountain
Fleece, 195; P. Baldschuanicum,
264; P. multiflorum, 196

Polypteris Hookeriana, Palifoxia, 270

Poppy, Alpine, Papaver A Ipinus, 23 2,
250; Anne Hathaway, P. som-
niferum paoniqflorum, 268; Cali-
fornia, see Eschscholtzia, 198;
Iceland, P. nudicaule, 169, 231;
Opium, P. somniferum, 71, 205,
227; Oriental, P. orientate, 257,
276; Paeony, P. somniferum pi. fl.
207, 227, 268, 269, 284; Shirley,
P. Rhceas, 199, 205, 269

Portulaca, P. grandiftora, 205, 244,
284

Potato bug, 127

Potentilla, Red, P. Nepalensis, 277;
White, P. alba, 189; Yellow, P.
recta, 235

Potentilla alba, White Potentilla,
189; P. recta, Yellow Potentilla,
235; P. Nepalensis, Nepal or
Red Potentilla, 277

Pot Marigold, see Calendula, 242

Pots, Neponset, 52

Predatory wealth in garden, 107

Prickly Poppy, see Argemone, 200

Prolific plants, 107, 108

Prunus Japonica, Flowering Al-
mond, 166; var. rosea, Pink
Flowering Almond, 247

Prunus Persica, Blood-leaved Peach,
81, 251; var. rosea plena, Japanese

Peach, 248; var. sanguinea, Red

Japanese Peach, 272
Prunus triflora, Japanese Plum,

249; P. Pissardi, Purple-leaved

Plum, 167
Pyrethrum, Chrysanthemum cocci-

neum, 257
Pyrus floribunda, Japanese Crab

Apple, 248

Queen of the Prairie, Spirea lobata
or Ulmaria rubra venuista, 261

Quince, Japan, Cydonia Japonica,
272, 273

Ragged Robin, Lychnis Flos-cuculi,

257

Ranunculus bulbosust Buttercup,
Gold Cup, 234; R. acris pi. fl.,
Tall Buttercup, 234; R. Asiaticus,
Garden Ranunculus, 235

Raspberry, Purple-flowered, Bram-
ble, Rubrus odoratus, 277

Record of blooming, 37

Red, arranging, flowers in garden,
74; using white flowers with, 74;
edging plants, 83; showiest annuals
in, 86; showiest perennials in, 85,
86

Red Annuals, 282-286

Red Bud, Cards Canadensis, 273;
Chinese, C. Chinensis, 272, 273

Red Flowers, 272-286

Red Perennials, 272, 273, 275-277,
278-280, 281, 282

Red Shrubs, 272-273, 274-275, 277-
278, 280

Remedy, for cutworms, 120; grubs,
121; mice, 124; moles, 123; green
louse, 127, 128; rose-bug, 125, 126;
potato-bug, 126; green slug, 126;
oil beetle, 126; aster beetle, 126;
hollyhock rust, 129-130; larkspur
blight, 129-130; mildew, 131;
mites in lilies, 132; wasps, 127;
aster blight, 132; carnation blight,
132; Physostegia blight, 131, 132

Reseda odorata, Mignonette, 203, 284

Response to environment, 153

Rest Harrow, Ononis rotundifolia,
262

Rhexia Virginica, Meadow Beauty,
215

304

Index

Rhodanthe, Helipterum Mangksii,

205, 269; R. maculata, 205
Rhododendron, Great, R. maximum

259

Rhododendron maximum, Great Rho-
dodendron, 259; R. nudiftora,
Pinxter Flower, 248

Rhodora, R. Canadensis, 249

Rhus cotinus, Smoke Tree, 216,
277, 280; R. glabra, Smooth
Sumach, 177; R. glabra, var. lacini-
ata, Fern-leaved Sumach, 177

Robinia hispida, Rose Acacia, 251

Rock Cress, Arabis albida, 168;
Alpine, A. alpina, 171

Rocket, Sweet, Hesperis matronalis,
183, 215; Yellow, Barbarea vul-
garis, 235

Rock heap, advantages of, 19

Rock Rose, see Helianthemum, 180

Romneya Coulieri, 183

Roots in hotbed, 57; dividing, 96;
twining, 96

Rose, Cabbage or Provence, Rosa
centifolia, 251; Cherokee, R. lavi-
gata, 101; Cinnamon, R. cinnamo-
nea, 251; Climbing, R. setigera,
Queen of the Prairie, 252; Dwarf
Wild, R. lucida, 275; Early Wild,
R. blanda, 252; Eglantine, R.
Eglanteria, Austrian Brier, 233;
Golden Sun, var. Soldi d'Or, 233;
Persian Yellow, var. lutea, 233

Hybrid: Perpetual, hybrids of
R. Indica, R. Damascena: — Anne
de Diesbach, 274; Margaret Dick-
son, 175; Frau Karl Druschki,
175; Mabel Morrison, 175; Bar-
oness Rothschild, 251; Gabriel
Luizet, 252; Magna Charta, 252;
Paul Neyron, 252; Mrs. John
Laing, 252; Mrs. R. G. Sharman-
Crawford, 253; Camille de Ro-
han, 274; Ulrich Brunner, 275

India: R. Indica: — Captain
Christy, 175; Madame Plantier,
175; La France (Hybrid Tea),
252; Jacqueminot (Hybrid China),
274

Japanese: R. rugosa, var. Conrad
Meyer, 253; R. rugosa rubra, 274;
Lancaster, R. Damascena, 6, 274,
275; Rambler, see Wichuriana;

Scotch, R. spinosissima, 233;
Sweet Brier, R. rubiginosa, 253;
White, R. alba, 176; Unknown
variety from Virginia, 175

Wichuriana, Manda's Triumph,
176; var. Gardenia, 233; Dorothy
Perkins (hybrid W. and Indica),
252; W., var. Universal Favorite,
253; Crimson Rambler, 274;
Yellow Rambler, 233

Rosa alba, White Rose, 176;
R. blanda, Early Wild, 252; R.
centifolia, Cabbage, 251; R. cln-
namonea, Cinnamon, 251; R.
Damascena, Lancaster or Red,
274, 275

R. Eglanteria, Austrian Brier,
233; Golden Sun, var. Solett d'Or,
233; Persian Yellow, var. lutea,

R. Hybrid Perpetual:— Mar-
garet Dickson, 175; Frau Karl
Druschki, 175; Mabel Morrison,
175; Baroness Rothschild, 251;
Gabriel Luizet, 252; Magna
Charta, 252; Paul Neyron, 252;
Mrs. John Laing, 252; Mrs. R. G.
Sharman-Crawford, 253; Camille
de Rohan, 274; Anne de Diesbach,
274; Ulrich Brunner, 275

R. Indica, Captain Christy,
175; Madame Plantier, 175; La
France, 252; Jacquemindl, 274

R. lavigata, Cherokee, 101;
R. lucida, Dwarf Wild, 275; R.
rubiginosa, Sweet Brier, 253; R.
rugosa, Japanese, var. Conrad
Meyer, 253; var. rubra, 274; R.
setigera, Climbing, Queen of the
Prairie, 252; R. spinosissima,
Scotch, 176

R. Wichuriana, var. Manda's
Triumph, 176; var. Gardenia,
233; Dorothy Perkins, 252; Uni-
versal Favorite, 253; Crimson
Rambler, 274; Yellow Rambler

233
Rose-beds, Gladiolus for, 76; Per.

Phlox for, 77; soil for, 93
Rose-bug, 79, 113, 124, 126, remedy

for, 126

Rose cuttings, rooting, 98
Rose Mallow, Hibiscus Syriacus, 264

Index

305

Rose of Sharon, see Rose Mallow,

264
Rosemary, Wild, see Andromeda,

247

Rose Moss, see Portulaca, 205
Roses, general culture of, 173, 174;

slipping, 98; Ivory soapsuds for,

128, 131; mildew on, 131
Rows, marking, 51
Rubrus odoratus, Purple-flowered

Raspberry, 277
Rudbeckia, 67; R. hirta, Black-eyed

Susan, 237; R. laciniata pi. fl.,

Golden Glow, 238
Rust, Hollyhock, 114, 129
Rustic seat, 45; fragrant flowers

near, 45; vines over, 45

Sabbatia, S. chloroides, 260, 262
Sage, Flowering, Salvia argentea,

239

Salpiglossis, S. sinuata, 244, 269,
286

Salvia, S. farinacea, 229; S. patens,
229; 5. argentea, Flowering Sage,
239; S. splendens, 286

Sambucus nigra, var. aurea, Golden
Elder, 80, 81; S. Canadensis,
Elderberry, 184

Sand, 21, 30, 33, 46, 57, 93, 97, 98,
131, 132, 173, 174

Saponaria, Soapwort, S. Calibrica,
206, 269; 5. ocymoides, 257, 277;
var. splendens, 277; Bouncing
Bet, 5. officinalis, 263

Saponaria Calibrica, Soapwort, 206,
269; 5. ocymoides, 257; var.
splendens, 277; S. officinalis,
Bouncing Bet, 263

Satin Flower, Godetia amcena, also
(Enothera, 202, 284

Saxifrage, Early, Saxifraga Vir-
giniensis, 171

Saxifraga Virginiensis, Early Saxi-
frage, 171

Scabiosa atropurpurea, Sweet Scabi-
ous, 207, 229, 245, 270, 284; S.
Caucasica, 216; var. perfecta, 216

Scabious, Sweet, Scabiosa, atro-
purpurea, 207, 229, 245, 270, 284

Schizanthus bipinnatus, Fringe Flow-
er, 206, 228; 5. Wisetonensis, 269

Schizapetalon, S. Walkeri, 199, 206

Scilla, 5. Sibirica, 211; S. nutans,

247
Sea Holly, Eryngium amethystinum,

220
Sea Lavender, Statice Limoniunt,

220

Sea Pink, see Thrift, 183, 254
Sedum spectabile, Showy Stonecrop,

66, 264; S. stoloniferum, 264
Seed-bed, permanent, 57
Seed firms, reliable, 63, 164
Seedlings, hardening, 31; trans-
planted, 52, 53; walk-grown, 46
Seed rows, marking, 52
Seed vessels, marking, 62, 63
Seeds, 30; chance, 34; cheap, 63;
code for marking, 63; color of, 62;
covering, 51; gathering, 63; hard
to germinate, 59; leaves, 66;
marking, 62; perennial, 57; peren-
nial slow to germinate, 95; plant-
ing indoors, 30; outdoors, 53;
planting perennial, 94; price of,
94; self -sowing annual, 61; self-
sowing perennial, 60, 61; self-
sown, 53; slow to germinate, 60;
small, 51; sowing, 21; sown
thinly, 53; watering, 52
Self -sowing annuals, 61; perennials,

60, 61

September views, 68
Shad Bush, Amelanchier Canaden-

sis, 167
Shirley Poppy, Papaver Rhceas, 76,

199, 205, 269, 282
Shooting Star, see Dodecatheon, 103,

179
Shrubbery, first, 9; for autumn

effects, 79, 80, 81, 142,^143
Shrubs, colored foliage in, 80, 81;

fragrant, 72; resetting, 75
Sidalcea malvaflora, var. Listeri, 257
Silene Armeria, Sweet-William
Catchfly, 201, 269; S. Shafta,
Autumn Catchfly, 254, 277; S.
pendula* 2675 5. compacta, 267;
S. Virginica, Fire Pink, 275
Silk Grass, see Yucca, 184
Silver Bell, see Snowdrop Tree, 167
Silver Thorn or Tree, Silver Berry,

Elcegnus parvifolia, 81, 236
Sisyrinchium angustifolium, Blue-
eyed Grass, 214

306

Index

Site, choosing a garden, 41

Smoke Tree, Rhus cotinus, 69, 81,

216, 277, 280
Snakeroot, White, Eupatorium ager-

atoides, 195
Snapdragon, Antirrhinum majus,

190, 206, 239, 244, 280, 284;

Alpine, Linaria alpina, 219
Sneezeweed, see Helenium, 103, 240
Sneezewort, see Achillea, 177
Snowball, Arrowwood, Viburnum

dentatum, 172; Tree or Guelder

Rose, V. opulis, 176; Japanese,

V. tomentosum, 176
Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, 165
Snowdrop Tree, Halesia tetraptera,

167
Soapwort, Saponaria calibrica, 206,

269; see Bouncing Bet, S. offici-

nalis, 263; S. ocymoides, 257, var.

splendens, 277
Soil, New Hampshire, 19, 20; for

beds, 5, 21, 32, 33; for roses, 93;

preparing, 92, 93; sour, 92, 93;

virgin, 93

Solidago juncea, Goldenrod, 238
Sophora Japonica, Pagoda Tree, 196
Sorbaria sorbifolia, see Spirea sorbi-

folia, 191, 192
Sorbus Americana, Mountain Ash,

J73

Southernwood, see Boy Love, 184
Specularia speculum, Venus Looking

Glass, 228

Speedwell, see Veronica, 221, 222
Spencer, Herbert, 153
Spider Plant, Cleome pungens, 201
Spirea, Anthony Waterer, S. Bumal-
da, 277; Blue, Caryopteris masta-
canthus, 222; Bridal Wreath, S.
prunifolia, 166; Dropwort, 5.
(Ulmaria) filipendula, 179; Goat's
Beard, S. astilbe or S. Aruncus,
1 10, 180; Golden, S. (Physocar-
pus) opulifolius, var. aurea, 81;
Japanese, S. Japonica, 259, also
S. callosa, var. superba, 259;
Italian May, St Peter's Wreath,
5. hypericifolia, 168; Meadow
Sweet, S. salicifolia, 259; Purple-
tipped, S. superba, 278; Queen of
the Prairie, 5. lobata, Ulmaria
rubra venuista, 261; Steeple Bush,

5". tomentosa, 262; Thunberg's, 5.
Thunbergii, 168; Van Houtte's, 5.
Van Houtei, 168; S. arguta, 167;
S. sorbifolia, or Sorbaria sorbifoUa,
191, 192

Spirea arguta, 167; S. Aruncus, S.
Astilbe, Goat's Beard, no, 180;
S. Bumalda, Anthony Waterer,
277; S. callosa, var. superba,
Meadow Sweet, 259; S. (Ulmaria)
filipendula, Dropwort, 179; S.
hypericifolia, Italian May, St.
Peter's Wreath, 168; 5. lobata
(Ulmaria rubra venuista), Queen
of the Prairie, 261; S. Japonica,
Japanese, 259; S. (Physocarpusj
opulifolius, var. aurea, Golden,
181; S. prunifolia, Bridal Wreath,
116; S. salicifolia, Meadow Sweet,
259; 5". sorbaria, or Sorbaria sorbi-
folia, 191, 192; S. superba, Purple-
tipped, 278; 5. Thunbergii, Thun-
berg's, 168; S. tomentosa, Steeple
Bush, 262; 51. Van Houtei, Van
Route's, 168

Spirit, cooperating with, 151; in
plants, 112, 152; matter as symbol
of, 157

Sports m garden, 133

Spray, a general, 130

Spurge, Flowering, see Euphorbia,
186

Squill, see Scilla, 211

Stachys lantana, Hedge Nettle, 219,
221

Statice Limonium, Sea Lavender, 220

St. John's Wort, Common, Hyperi-
cum perforatum, 239; Golden, H.
aureum, 239; Great, H. Ascryon,
239; Shrubby, H. patulum, 240;
H. calycinum, 237; H. densiflo-
rum, 237; H. Moserianum, 237;
H. prolijicum, 237

St. Peter's Wreath, Italian May,
Spirea hypericifolia, 168

Star Flower, Milla multiftora or Tri-
teleia laxa, 89, 153, 188, 189

Steeple Bush, Spirea tomentosa, 262

Stems, color of, 62

Stenanthium robustum, Mountain
Feather Fleece, 195

Stephenandra flexuosa, 176

Stevia serrata, Stevia, 208

Index

307

Stirring earth, 103

Stock, enlarging, 19

Stock, Ten Weeks, Matthiola annua,

202, 206, 228, 244, 269, 284
Stokesia, Stokes' Aster, S. cyanea, S.

Cartesia, 221

Stokes' Aster, see Stokesia, 221
Stone heap, advantages of, 43
Stone walls, 21, 32, 41, 157
Stones, Japanese use of, 42
Styrax Japonica, 176
Succession of bloom, 9, 33, 82; in

blue beds, 34-36; of poppies, 94
Succulent leaves, 66
Suckers, plants making, 96
Sucking insects, 127
Sulphate of copper, 129
Sulphide of potassium, 131
Sulphur, 131, 132
Sumach, Fern-leaved, Rhus glabra,

var. laciniata, 81, 177; Smooth, R.

glabra, 177

Sundrops, (Enothera fruticosa, 238
Sunflower, Annual, Helianthus an-

nuus, 245; False, Heliopsis lavis,

239; Perennial, Helianthus deca-

petalus, 241; H. latifiorus, 241;

H. mollis, 241; Graceful, H. orgya-

lis, 241
Sun Rose, see Helianthemum, 180;

Helianthemum alpestre, 234, 235;

H. mutabilis, Sun Rose, 180, 258
Sweet Clover, Melilotus alba, 206;

M. ccsrula, 228
Sweet Fern, Artemesia annua, 78,

207, 208

Sweet Gale, Myrica gale, 184
Sweet Pea, Lathyrus odoratus, 206,

228, 244, 269, 284
Sweet Pepper Bush, Clethra alni-

folia, 184
Sweet-scented Shrub, Calycanthus

floridus, 274
Sweet Sultan, Centaurea moschata,

199, 225, 242
Sweet William, Dianthus barbatus,

116, 183, 258, 277
Sweet Woodruff, Asperula odorata,

168, 172
Syringa, Philadelphus coronarius,

177
Syringa vulgaris, Common Lilac,

211, 248; var. alba, White Lilac,

167; 5. Persica, Persian Lilac,
211

Tacoma radicans, Trumpet Creeper,
280

Tamarix Africana, or T. tetrandra,
African Tamarisk, 253 ; T. Indica,
Late-flowering Tamarisk, 262

Tamarisk, African, Tamarix Afri-
cana (T. tetrandra), 253; Late-
flowering, T. Indica, 262

Tanacetum vulgare, var. crispum,
Tansy, 241

Tangetes erecta, African Marigold,
243; T. patula, French Marigold,
243; T. signata, Single Marigold,

243, 244 . '

Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, var. cris-
pum, 241

Tarred paper for mice, 124

Tassel Flower, Cacalia or Emilia
sonchifolia, 283, 285

Tender perennials, shelter for, 101

Terraced driveway, 78

Terraces, making, 33

Thalictrum adiantifolium, 181; T.
cornuti, 181; T. polygonum, Mead-
ow Rue, 181

Thermopsis Caroliniana, Carolina
Pea, 235

Thorn, Scarlet-fruited, Cratagus coc-
cinea, 168

Thoroughwort, Eupatorium perfolia-
tum, 190

Thrift, Armeria cephalotes, 183; A.
elongata, 254; A. vulgaris, 254;
Plaintain-leaved, A. plantaginea,

254

Thunbergia, T. alata, 245
Tiarella cordifolia, Foam Flower, 179
Tickseed, see Coreopsis, 234, 243
Toadflax, Linaria maroccana, 226,

227

Toads, 124
Tools for work, 18
Transplanting, 52; poppies, 52; per-
ennials and shrubs, 74, 75
Traveler's Joy, Clematis Virginianat

191

Trees as windbreaks, 90
Tridax, T. bicolor rosea, 269
Triteleia laxa, Star Flower, 89, 153,
188, 189

3°8

Index

Tritoma, Red Hot Poker, Flame
Flower, Kniphofia Pfitzeri, 281

Tritonia Potsii, Montbretia, 240,
241; T, var. rosea, 264, 281

Trollius Asiaticus, Globe Flower, 234

Trop&olum minus, Dwarf Nastur-
tium, 198-199, 243, 268, 284; T.
majus, Tall Nasturtium, 204, 244,
268, 284; T. Lobbiannum, Lobb's
Nasturtium, 227; T. peregrinum,
Canary Bird Flower, 243

Trumpet Creeper, Tacoma radicans,
280

Tulip, Tulipa gesneriana, 172, 213,
232; Parrot, T. Dracontia, 232;
T. suaveolus, 250, 273

Tulipa Dracontia, Parrot Tulip, 232;
T. gesneriana, Common Tulip,
172, 213; T. suaveolus, 250, 273

Tulip Poppy, see Hunnemannia, 238

Tunica saxifraga, 258

Turtlehead, see Chelone, 260, 284

Types, new, 132, 133

Ulmaria (Spirea) filipendula, Drop-
wort, 179; Ulmaria rubra venuista
(Spirea lobata), Queen of the Prai-
rie, 102, 103, 261

Unicorn Plant, see Martynia, 227

Valerian, Jupiter's Beard, Centran-
thus ruber, 258, 277; Spurred,
Centranthus albus, 183

Valeriana officinalis, Garden Helio-
trope, 1 80

Venetian Sumach, see Smoke Tree,
216

Venus' Looking Glass, Specularia
speculum, 228

Verbascum, Blattaria, Moth Mullein,
216, 258; V. pannosum, Italian
Mullein, 235; V. nigrum, 236

Verbena, V. teucroides, 208, 269, 270;
V. montara, 258; Red, V. chamce-
drifolia, 285; V. aubletia, 228

Verbena aubletia, 228; V. chamadri-
folia, Red Verbena, 285; V. teu-
croides, 208, 269, 270

Verbena, Sand, Abronia fragrans,
200; A. areneria, 243

Veronica spicata, Speedwell, 45, 76,
221; V. longifolia, var. subsessilis,
Long-leaved Veronica, 222

Viburnum dentatum, Arrowwood,
172; V. lantanoides, Hobble-
bush, 172; V. opulis, Snowball,
176; V. tomentosum, Japanese
Snowball, 176; V. cassinoides,
Withe Rod or Withe Tree, 177

Vinca minor, 229, 270; V. rosea, 208

Vines, fragrant, 72; a protection to
house, 77, 78; as social climbers,
114

Viola tricolor, Pansy, 165, 204, 210,
227, 230, 244; V. odorata, English
Violet, 213

Violet, English, Viola odorata, 213

Virginia Cowslip, see Lungwort, 210

Virginia Creeper, 8, 77; pruning, 77;
two varieties, 78

Virginia Phlox, see Phlox divaricata,
213

Virgin's Bower, see Traveler's Joy,
191

Viscaria, Blue-eyed, Lychnis oculata,
228; Red, Agrostemma, coeli-rosa,
285

Vistas beyond garden, 9

Visitors, gluttonous, 148; inconven-
ient, 148

Vilex agnus-castus, Chaste Tree,

221

Waahoo, see Burning Bush, 80, 216
Wager Scale for photography, 138,

fable

Wahlenbergia, see Platycodon, 189,

220
Walks, disorderly 47; clean, 48;

sand for, 46; laying out curved, 90
Wallflower, Chieranthus cheiri, 286
Walls, value of, in dry exposure, 42;

snow in spring under, 42
Wasps, 127; remedy for, 127
Water Cress, False, Aubretia del-

toides, 272
Watering seeds, 52; in time of

drought, 104

Waxwork, Roxbury, see Bitter-
sweet, 233, 278
Wayfaring Bush, see Hobblebush,

172

Wedding gift, 40
Weeding, 115
Weeds resembling garden plants,

65; as beggars, 114, 115

Index

309

Weigelia, Diervilla florida, 177, 251,

275

Whale oil soap, 127

White Alder, see Sweet Pepper
Bush, 184

White Annuals, 198-209

White edging plants, 84

White flowers, 165-209

White flowers in blue beds, 35; in
red beds, 74; airy, 74; in combina-
tions, 88

White grubs, 54; in hotbed, 55, 118,

121

White mites, 132

White, showiest annuals in, 87;

showiest perennials in, 86, 87
White Perennials, 165-166, 168-172,

177-184, 184-190, 192-195, 196,

197
White Shrubs, 166-168, 172-177,

184, 191-192, 196
Whiteweed, see Daisy, 179
Whitlavia, Phacelia Whitlavia, 225
Whitlavia, W. grandiflora, 206
Wild Hyacinth, see Scilla, 211
Wild Rosemary, see Andromeda, 247
Windbreaks, trees as, 90
Window shelves for seedlings, 31
Winter Cress, see Rocket, Yellow,

23S
Winter-killing, cause of 100, 101

Winter occupations, n

Wistaria, Chinese, W. Chinensis,

213; W. siensis, 45, 46, ,97, 213;

W. Chinensis, var. multijuga, 214
Withe Tree or Rod, Viburnum cas-

sinoides, 177
Wood ashes, 55
Work, love of, 156
Worm, green, on roses, 126; eel, 131

Yellow Annuals, 242-246

Yellow Bed, 37, 38; edging plants

for, 83, 84; other colors in, 37;

showiest annuals in, 86; showiest

perennials in, 86
Yellow Flowers, 230-246
Yellow Perennials, 230, 231-232,

233~236> 237> 240, 241, 242
Yellow Shrubs, 230, 232, 233, 236,

237, 240
Yucca, Adam's Needle, Yucca fila-

mentosa, 184

Zaluzianskia selaginoides, Nycteri-

nia, 204
Zinnia, Curled and Crested, Z.

elegans, 208, 229, 245, 270, 285;

Mexican, Z. angustifolia, 246
Zinnia elegans, Curled and Crested

Zinnia, 208, 229, 245, 270, 285; Z.

angustifolia, Mexican Zinnia, 246

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(Prospectus of entire Series on request)

INSECTS AND DISEASE

By R. W. DOANE, of Stanford University. Illustrated.
$1.50 net; by mail, $1.62.

" Describes lucidly and entertainingly, in language that all may under-
stand, the discoveries in the disease-bearing qualities of insects, the suc-
cessful fights that have been made in consequence against yellow fever,
malaria and plague, and the present state of the investigations." — New
York Sun.

THE CARE OF TREES IN LAWN, STREET, AND PARK

By B. E. FERNOW, of the University of Toronto. Illus-
trated. $2.00 net; by mail, $2.17.

Written for amateurs by a forester, this volume furnishes information
such as the owner of trees or the " tree warden " may need.

" Truly admirable . . . eminently practical. . . . His list of trees
desirable for shade and ornament is a full and most valuable one, and
the illustrations are enlightening." — New York Tribune.

HARDY PLANTS FOR COTTAGE GARDENS

By HELEN R. ALBEE, Author of " Mountain Playmates."
Illustrated. I2mo. $1.60 net; by liuil, $1.75.

" Eminently practical and well arranged. . . . Lists giving manner of
growth, height, time of blooming, exact color, special requirements of
soil and moisture are provided, and proper classifications and indexes
make the book one of the most valuable yet offered to the garden
grower." — Boston Transcript.

SHELL-FISH INDUSTRIES

By JAMES L. KELLOGG, of Williams College. Illustrated.
$1.75 net; by mail, $1.91.

" Interests all classes, the biologist, the oyster grower, the trader and
the eater of oysters. The whole book is very readable." — New York Sun.

FISH STORIES: Alleged and Experienced, with a Little
History, Natural and Unnatural

By CHARLES F. HOLDER and DAVID STARR JORDAN. With
colored plates and many illustrations from photographs.
$1.75 net; by mail, $1.87.

" A delightful miscellany, telling about fish of the strangest kind.
Nearly everything that is entertaining in the fish world is touched upon
and science and fishing are made very readable." — New York Sun.

INSECT STORIES

By VERNON L. KELLOGG. Illustrated. $1.50 net; by mail, $1.62.

" The author is among a few scientific writers of distinction who can
interest the popular mind. No intelligent youth can fail to read it with
delight and profit." — The Nation.

HENRY HOLT AN D~ COMPANY

PUBLISHERS NEW YORK

BRITTON'S NORTH AMERICAN TREES

By NATHANIEL LORD BRITTON, Director-in -Chief of the N. Y.
Botanical Garden, assisted by J. A. Shafer, Custodian of the
Museums of the N. Y. Botanical Garden, 775 illustrations, 894 pp.,
$7.00 net.

The most comprehensive and profusely illustrated single volume
on the trees known to grow independently of cultivation in North
America north of the West Indies and Mexico. With a minimum of
technical terms, a glossary of the botanical terms, keys for identifica-
tion and a 2g-page index.

" This splendid book."— The Dial.

"It is a most thoroly admirable book, and one which I shall find personally
of the greatest use. There is nothing of the kind better in any language
either in method or appearance of text."— President DAVID STARR JORDAN,
Leland Stanford University.

" This superb volume. . . Seldom does one find a book which merits
more enthusiastic enconiums than this. No slightest aspect of the subject un-
touched ; yet there is not a superfluous phrase, scarcely a superfluous word. .
Invaluable to all serious students. . . Excellent paper, admirable type and
abundant illustrations." — Providence Journal.

KERNER AND OLIVER'S NATURAL
HISTORY OF PLANTS.

From the German of ANTON KERNER VON MARILAUN, Professor
of Botany in the University of Vienna, by F. W. OLIVER, Quain
Professor of Botany in University College, London, with the assist-
ance of MARIAN BUSH and MARY E. EWART. 4*0. 2 vols. The
set, $11.00 net.

A work for reference or continuous reading, at once popular and,
in the modern sense, thoroly scientific. The new edition is prac-
tically identical with the former four-volume edition except that the
colored plates in the latter have been omitted. The wood engravings,
over two thousand in number, have been retained.

" Professor Kerner has brought the most recent researches within reach of
the intelligent reader, and in a style so charming that even the professiona'
teacher may learn a lesson in the art of presentation." — Prof. JOHN M.
COULTER, in THB DIAL.

Prospectuses of the above on request.
HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY

34 WEST 330 ST. NEW YORK

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW

AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS

WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY
WILL INCREASE TO 5O CENTS ON THE FOURTH
DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY
OVERDUE.

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OCT

SEP

282

a 1935

MAY 1 1936

1339
FEB 8 l^44

JUN 5 1947

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY