Hints on Golt-Breakin -^^ W.M. Hutchison H-2 TUFTS UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES 3 9090 014 548 727 COLT-BREAKING HINTS ON COLT-BREAKING WILLIAM M. HUTCHISON IViril TWENTY- FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS 3£ 0 n ti 0 tt CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY 1S02 vCf-oS HINTS ON COLT-BREAKING. I. There are two very distinct ways of breaking a colt. The first is to accustom the animal constantly to your presence and voice, teaching him a little at a time. This plan is only suitable to gentlemen who keep a few young ones for amusement, and who enjoy the pleasure of handling them from time to time ; but it produces B 2 Hints on Colt-Breaking. what I may call a solid docility and lasting affection on the part of the colt, and gets him into that state of mind, when grown up, which horsy men, in their simple phrase, designate as " not knowing how to do wrong." The second way is to take up the . animal when three or four years old, and, by a method which I will explain, finish off the bulk of liis education in a week or so. This is the more suitable for breakers, or gentlemen who breed a large number. We will commence with the first, be- cause it is the more natural, and also because it will suit by far the larger number of readers. It is a good plan to begin at the beginning, and the first thing to do, Hints on Colt-Breaking. 3 before the colt is foaled, is to accustom the mare to come in every night of her own accord. I am very strongly of opinion that no well-bred horse should at any time be left out all night, so you should keep no larger number of animals than you have room for, however rough the accommodation. Wooden houses, with thatched roofs, can be put up very cheaply, at the rate of about ten pounds for each loose box, and are extremely comfortable for horses running loose, being warm in winter and cool in summer. In these papers I am referring principally to well-bred horses, that should run into money : it is useless rearing any others — let some one else do that. 4 Hints on Colt-Breaking. Therefore I would house tlae mare comfortably every night, and would give her a feed of oats in the morning, before turning her out to grass, and another in the evening, when she comes in. A horse is, in my opinion, the stupidest of all the animals that are intimately associated with man, but, for all that, he has quite enough sense to prompt him to come for the oats he expects, every night. In this way there is no trouble about catching him (or lier in this case) ; you have but to stand at the gate and call " C'yap ! c'yup ! " and she will come readily enough ; nine times out of ten you will find her waiting with her head over it. This is very important, and has much to do with the subject of colt-breaking, Hmts on Colt-Breaking. 5 as the mare becomes very gentle and tractable when treated in this way, and the oats you are giving her are the means of getting a good-constitutioned foal, before it sees the light. Farmers, as a rule, are penny wise and pound foolish in this respect ; they do nothing for their mares, except let them pick up what grass they can find for themselves, and are surprised that they have a weak weedy colt as the result, worth perhaps twenty-five pounds at four years old. When the foal makes his appearance, he is accustomed to the sight of man from his birth, and in a w^eek or two will put his nose into the manger to see what his mother is eating with so much gusto. He will very soon 6 Hints on Co/t-Breaking. begin picking up a few oats, and will run as straight to his food as the mare will. Thus the first lesson is learned : man is his best friend next to his mother, and there is nothing to fear from him. He has to stay out in the field, wet or dry, until the man lets him come in — to shelter and supper. If you feed him yourself from your hand, you will quite win his heart, and in a week after he begins taking oats, he will, if you entice him away, follow you a hundred yards or more from his mother. For my part, I consider it a pretty sight to see the little fellow follow me, often casting glances of alarm at the distant mother, and wondering whether it will be safe to Hints on Colt-Breaking. 7 risk a few further steps ; then whisk ! round goes the tail, up go the heels, and away he flies to security. The mare and foal should be in a small paddock by themselves, so that they may not be worried and annoyed by other horses, as it is bad for the mother to be made to gallop about, and bad for the foal to be snapped at, as thus he learns his first idea of vice. At four months old, a leather head- stall should be placed on the colt's head. To do this it is not necessary to adopt the usual plan of getting the youngster into a corner of the stable and holding him by main force while he is haltered. This is an alarming process, and my object is, from the beginning, to let the 8 Hints on Colt-Breaking. colt think that nothing / do will either frighten or hurt him. ^' Put yourself in his place." How should you like a giant to rush at you and tie you up with a rope, without a word of exjDlanation ? Herein lies the difficulty, that impossible " word of explanation ; " but recollect, it is for you to get over the difficulty, and not for the colt. He has but four means of slowly discovering the meaning or value of what is around and about him — hear- ing, sight, touch, and smell. Therefore let him apply the last three thoroughly to the head-stall before you try it on. Hold it in your hand while you feed him ; let him look at it, smell it, and rub it with the point of his nose (for this is his method of " touching " a thing), until he Hints on Colt-Breaking. 9 has no fear of it ; you can then piay it up and down his neck and over his ears. Two or three such lessons in your idle moments will enable you to put it on without any difficulty, and save the folly of frightening the animal. G-rooms, at such times, are very brave with little foals, and rush at them with great determination and much shouting. And here let me say, once for all, that cruelty, or even roughness (with certain restrictions), is as useless in dealing with a horse as a fifth wheel is to a coach. Therein equine nature is superior to the human article, because a horse is all the better for being treated kindly ; whereas a man, under the like conditions, generally lo Hints 011 Colt-Breaking. " rounds upon you," feeling, no doubt, a debt of gratitude insupportable to those finer feelings, whicb, luckily, a horse does not possess. Having got your head-stall on, you now begin to try to lead the colt. The best time for this is in the evening, when he, with his mother, is anxious to come in. Take a rope, and make a simple noose at the end, like this : Fig. 1. because, when you put the end of the Hints on Colt-Breaking. 1 1 rope through the noose, it will run up quickly, and you will thus prevent the animal breaking away, as might be the case were you to attempt to make a knot. Fig. 2, Instead of you leading the colt, he will now lead you, as he will make frantic efforts to get away and follow his mother. This latter you allow him to do, speaking quietly and soothingly to him the while, at your own discretion. When you get 12 Hints on Colt-Breaking, him to his box, continue to hold him, pat him a little, and let him go. Repeat the operation next morning, when you take him out. In two or three of these simple lessons the colt will find that you do him no harm, and will come willingly enough ; so that, before he leaves his mother finally, obedience has become second nature. It is useful, however, should circum- stances not permit of the animal being taught slowly, to know how to get him along at once ; as, for instance, from a sale, when mare and foal are separated for the first time. All foals have a great objection to being- hauled along by the head for the first time or two, and will resist with all their Hints on Colt-Breaking. 13 power. A determined colt, even at five or six months old, is much stronger to resist, when he plants his forefeet, than a man is to pull him, in a straight line. We must therefore try to convince him of a fallacy, which his intellect is not equal to seeing through, that we can move him whether he likes or not. To do this, we must move him sideways ; he will always allow his head and neck to come round to either side, and nearly always his body will follow. It is easier to push his shoulder away from you, and thus make him go round, than to pull him towards you, when he may only give you his head and refuse to move his hind- quarters. In this latter case you may apply a strong remedy. Attach your 14 Hints 071 Colt-Breaking. rope on the off side, pnll on the rope, gradually letting it slip through your hands, till you pass behind his tail to the near side, but two or three yards FiCx. 3. away from and behind him. His head will have followed you till it is close up against his ribs. A sharp pull will bring him clean Hints 011 Colt-Breaking. 15 over, and I never knew a young one who would let me get behind him three times w^ith that object. He at once picks up the idea that he can save himself by turning round, which is exactly the end you have in view. This may seem to go against my theory of kindness, and, in fact, I would never employ such a method if I were handhng a colt at home ; but, at all events, this throwing down does not make bim at all vicious, as might a lot of whipping and shouting to make him move, and it greatly increases his respect for your power, without making him afraid of you after. Having got him to come round when you like, it is but a short step to getting him to move in a larger circle, and then 1 6 Hints on Colt-Breaking. straight. The whole thing does not take half an hour, and you may lead him where you like, with perhaps an occasional crack of the whip behind, if he should think of stopping, from some kind friend. People willing to crack whips are to be found all over England, so there need be no difficulty on that score. If, after you have thrown him down, your new purchase will eat some oats out of your hand, you may congratulate yourself on having bought a young one with a brave and docile disposition. If he is to be a hunter, he is the sort that won't know how to '' refuse " when he sees his fence in front ; if he is for harness, he is not likely to stop in the middle of a hill. Hints on Colt-Breaking. 17 n. Many men, many minds ! So I do not expect every one to agree with my idea, that it is an amusing thing to take out a colt for a walk ! Some people are too dignified, and others too lazy. All the same, such a proceeding is very good indeed for the animal, and I strongly recommend it to all who care for that kind of diversion. With a leading-rein a dozen feet long- between us, it is wonderful what the colt and I can get over. We climb banks, where the youngster soon learns to poise c 1 8 Hints oil Colt'Breaking, himself on the top till I get out of the way ; we leap ditches and the trees that are felled in the woods, and in a short time are not afraid of a small stile. Both of us return home more healthy and better jumpers than when we started ; though it is not leaping that I am teaching my pupil, but a docility and a temperateness that will be to the advantage of both of us long after, when the real jumping lessons have long been over, and we get out with the hounds. At eighteen months, put a roller round the colt, not too tightly pulled up, during part of the day. Gradually get it to the ordinary tension, and let him get thoroughly accustomed to the feeling of it. You may then change the roller Hints on Colt-Breaking, 19 for a saddlej and lead him out in the roads or fields for half an hour daily, during a week. You can then do nothing more with him till he is three years old, except continue in the same treatment of un- varying kindness ; and during this time he should have from four to six pounds of oats daily, given to him at three different times. It may be that, during his young days, the colt will, some time or other, snap at you. If so, give him a slap with your open hand, not too hard, on the side of his mouth, at the same time advancing on him, and making him back from you, with angry growls (and expletives, if you are a " swear-man "). The colt fully 20 Hints on Colt-Breaking. realizes that he has done what is wrong, and will probably never offend again. I have had many colts that have never attempted to bite me once, and I never remember one doing so twice, with the above treatment. As for kicking, a colt brought up in this way would never think of such a thing ; but if he did, I should recommend an instantaneous crack over the back, as a hint that that would not be tolerated. The colt being now three years old, the critical moment has come, when either you will spoil him or make him a useful animal. The best way to take a fair average chance of spoiling him is to send him to a breaker, of the sort to be found in every town. A breaker! It is the right Hints oil Colt-Breaking. 21 uame on the right man. He breaks the colt's confidence, he breaks his manners, often he breaks a tendon or ligament, and nearly always breaks his heart. This summer I went to look at a three- year-old, for sale, and was told it was " at the breaker's." With some difficulty I found the place ; and this is what I beheld, peering over a wall, mounted on a friendly heap of dirt thrown up alongside. One colt and three young men. A was on its back, in a buck-jumping saddle, with a cutting cane whip ; B on the ground, holding in one hand a rope about three yards long tied to the colt's head-stall, and in the other a sort of bludgeon, which looked like a Jersey cabbage-stick ; 0 held an ordinary stable-broom in his hand, to 22 Hints on Colt-Breaking. give the requisite variety. " Get on, then ! " (which of course the poor beast did not understand, any more than you or I do Sanscrit), and whack ! came down A's cane, while C rushed from behind and prodded with the bristles of the brush. Naturally the colt gave a terrified leap forward, when B promptly hit him on the nose, to stop him, while A sawed his mouth with the bit. I think this is a good plan to make a sensitive animal perfectly vicious, and this, ladies and gentlemen, is what your favourites under- go when you pay your ten guineas for their month's change of air. I asked if the colt was a vicious one, and received the answer, " Oh no ! but it is the first time he has had a saddle on, and Hints on Colt-Breaking. 23 we have to let him know who is the master ! " It would be fiendish ferocity, were it not simply stupid ignorance. I have a friend, and that friend has a coachman who occasionally breaks a colt to harness for his master. This genius puts on the harness, and with- out saying a word, or giving any order, proceeds to give the unoffending beast half a dozen severe cuts with the whip, ''^ just to let him know what it is,'' he says. We will now proceed to put in practice the proper method of educating a colt, and it is at this point that professional " breakers," and those gentlemen who have many animals to handle, may give me 24 Hints Oil Colt-Breaking. their attention, for all that has gone before has been, strictly speaking, unnecessary ; though, as I have said before, of great advantage in making the future horse dependable, in any extraordinary circum- stance that may arise, and for which we cannot prepare him. The first thing to do is to get him a good mouth, for without that no horse can be ridden or driven in safety. By the system I advocate it is quite impossible for a horse ever to run away with you, unless under such extraordinary terror that he might be considered, for the nonce, no longer a sane animal. Of course no education can be depended upon if a horse is mad, any more than it would affect a man in the like condition. Hints on Colt-Breaking. 25 Put the harness on the colt, with the exception of the collar and breeching. The best sort of bit is a roll of leather, rather than steel, pretty thick, so that the animal may play with it, and guarded at the sides by two large round discs, also of leather, to prevent the bit being pulled through the mouth. It will be observed that the dumb-jockey is not used at all in this method : it is, in my opinion, a very foolish instrument, as there is a constant bearing on the horse's mouth, in spite of the india- rubber reins, which is accountable for the want of sensitiveness we so generally find. Besides, you save the expense of buying or hiring a dumb-jockey, and take two or three days instead of two 26 Hints on Colt-Breaking. or three weeks to accomplish your object. Having put on the harness, take a good long pair of reins and pass them through Fig. 4. the shaft-holes. This prevents the colt, if he wheels round, from getting them over his back, and becoming very much mixed with them. You stand, as in the illustration, on Hints on Colt-Breaking. 27 the near side, with the off rein passing above his hocks. This gives you a con- siderable leverage power, and you will not require any special activity or clever- ness to keep him straight, for you can readily pull him which way you please. All you require, to do it well, is a little practice, the same as in everything else in life. You now drive him round an imaginary circle to the left. Perhaps he will not start when you say '' Go on ! " — it is well to use always the same phrase, and to say it clearly — in which case, let him be led a step or two, and patted to encourage him. If he stops, crack the whip, but do not hit him, and say " Go on ! " in a loud and angry tone. 28 Hints Oil Colt-Breaking. letting your man pat him again when he does so. When he has travelled five or six yards to the left, pull the off rein with consider- able force, using the off' hind leg above the hock as a leverage, and thus bring him round the opposite way, moving to the right. A very short dose of this treatment, say for fifteen minutes, will make him extremely ready to answer the pull of either rein, and that is enough for the first lesson. It may be that he will object to the feeling of the reins on his hind legs, and will kick ont at them. All the better. Let him do so, because he cannot do the slightest harm, and if there is any kick Hints on Colt-Breaking. 29 in him it must come out some time or other. Professor Sample (who is a capital hand with a horse, and whom I cordially recommend as the very best of teachers) used to tell me that it was better to break the horse by himself, than the horse and the trap, which is very true. So you pay no attention to the colt's kicks and struggles, but simply go on pulling him about as you please, with the view of de- ceiving him into the idea that you don't care a farthing what he does, and that you are the master. I hope it is quite clear, from what I have said above, that you do not, on any account, stand hehind the colt when you are thus driving him, but always in the middle of your imaginary circle, making 30 Hints on Colt-Breaking. him pass round you from left to right, or from right to left. The effect of driving him from behind would be that you, while walking on your own legs, could not, by any chance, be sure of giving the exact pressure or relief that you desired ; nor could you compel him to come round in the same way, as he might give you his head, but refuse to move his hind quarters. The next lesson is to make him stop. It is a fine thing to have a horse that will go, but not so agreeable when you put the accent on the will. Of the two, it would be a good deal safer to have a horse that would not go at all, than one that would not stop at all, except when he wished. Hints on Colt-Breaking. 31 Therefore, clear your throat for a souorous '' Whoa ! " at the same time preparing for it, by getting behind the colt this time, and pulling both reins equally when you shout, so that the colt nearly sits down on his haunches. This is the easiest thing of all to teach, for the animal very much dreads the sudden pull, and with two or three trials will obey instantly. Never give your order twice. When he undertstands "- Whoa ! " make him do it. At first he will stop very quickly at the accustomed sound, without your making any use of the reins ; but if you find him growing careless, as time goes on, give him a reminder by pulling him up abruptly if he takes a single step after receiving your command. 32 Hints 07t Colt-Breakmg, I am always trying to follow out in my own mind what a horse thinks about things, and why he acts in the peculiar way he sometimes does ; but I am unable to account for this : — A horse, thoroughly mouthed, as above, to turn right or left, and to stop, will yet, on occasion, run away with you, if he wishes to do so, under very ordinary excitement, such as galloping with other horses in the wake of hounds ; but when he has been taught the next point, namely, to hack quickly and well, he never will. There must be some hazy idea in his stupid head that the bit and bridle, in the hands of a man, can actually make him go the very op- posite way to that which he would like, and this has a different effect on his Hints oil Colt-Breaking, 33 memory altogether than merely stopping him. It makes him afraid to go up to the bit unless you tell him to do so ; and it's lucky he is so foolish, otherwise we should never be able to ride him with any safety. To back him you get behind with the long reins, and, when he is standing still, you say, " Back ! " He docs not under- stand this, so you explain it by jerking both reins, saying "- Back ! " first, with a jerk after, till he does so. Many horses will fight against this treatment very de- terminedly. They will rear straight up on end, and I am extremely averse to the idea of pulling them over backwards when in this position ; because, though it would be an excellent lesson in manners, D 34 Hints on Colt-Breaking. tlie risk of the animal doing himself an injury is too great to allow you to chance it. Therefore, I would let him come down again, and when he does so, again say '' Back ! " with a strong jerk as before. He may go up a dozen times, but each time will be with less vigour, and he is not at all likely to fall of his own accord ; it is only very vicious horses that ever lose their balance or throw themselves back, and we all know that that kind never manage to do themselves any harm. The very fact that a horse has sufficient brains to resist man, at once proves he has sense enough to look after himself. Headers will notice that mustangs are the most difficult of all horses to break ; Hints oil Colt-Breaking. 35 and why ? Because they have been left free to get their own liveKhood, and are a great deal more capable of de- fending themselves than a domestic animal ever can be. We read how, out on the prairies, they actually have sense enough to post solitary sentinels, away from the herd, to give the alarm if any enemy approaches, and select for them- selves a leader, under whose orders they act in concert, and who is always the finest and strongest animal of them all. Now, I will venture to say that if the brains of every horse in England could be added together, the total would not be equal to so much wisdom as this ! When we have got our colt to back 36 Hints on Colt-Breaking. freely, we have carried his education so far as this ; he will go to the left, to the right, will stop, will back, and will not run away. Hints on Colt-Breaking, 37 III. The treatment which the colt has under- gone is equally necessary whether you intend to ride or to drive him. He has been taught to obey : — to go, to stop, or to back, all of which are required in saddle or harness. But as a horse is unsafe to drive until he is thoroughly accustomed to the sights and sounds of the road, I always prefer to ride him first. He is much more easily managed when you are on his back, and, in the event of any sudden fright, he is not so likely to get into 38 Hints on Colt-Breaking, difficulties as when he has a trap behind him. If you have already accustomed him to a roller and then to a saddle in his in- fancy, you have now merely to renew his acquaintance with these ; but, if not, you must do with him as previously directed. He may kick about a little when the saddle is first put on, or, more probably, when it is at length girthed up pretty tightly, but when he finds he cannot displace it, he soon submits. And here I should say that bad tackle is a fruitful cause of a horse learning vice. Should the girths give way, for example, and should he find himself able to get rid of the saddle, be sure lie will try to do so again with redoubled vigour. Hints on Colt-Breaking. 39 On the other hand, when he is quite ac- customed to the saddle, he will take little notice of the girths giving way, and not in any way presume upon the accident : always provided that he is not, at that precise moment, trying to kick you off. Should it happen so, he will certainly think himself the cleverer of the two, and try it on again. It is a good plan to continue the driving- process with the reins through the stirrup- irons, and keep on pulling him to whicli side you like, regardless of his struggles. I find that very few colts kick at all if I place a shee23skin, with the woolly side next the back, under the saddle. I fancy that the pressure is much less direct upon any particular part, as the soft wool 40 Hints on Colt-Breaking. spreads in an agreeable fashion. At all events, I always use one myself when breaking, and if he is thoroughbred, I never have a saddle on without it at Fig. 5. any time. Even in the hottest summer weather a horse will never have a sore back when one is used, and it must be a great saving to him in a long day's liuntiug or hacking. Hints on Colt-Breaking. 41 Our colt having now mastered the erroneous idea that it is impossible to get the saddle off, we must accustom him to a weight upon it. Festina lente, said the Roman proverb, meaning to say, " Hurry, by all means, but not too quickly." So we can improvise a capital rider, who will kick his legs about pleasantly, by taking an empty oat-sack, putting a little into the bottom, tying it tightly in the middle, adding another equal quan- tity of oats, and then sewing the mouth up. It is very easy to tie the rider to the saddle, and if the colt is much of a kicker, a loose rope passed from one corner of the sack, under his bellv, to 42 Hints Gu Colt-Breaking, the other side, will prevent the legs from dancing too much. You must now lead him about with his new burden, till he shows no sign of restiveness, and the rider can, like a Fig. 6. London alderman, increase in weiglit from day to day, by the same process — stuffing. When the colt is thoroughly accus- tomed to the weight, it only remains to Hints on Colt-Breaking, 43 substitute a real rider for the imitation one. This must be done with great care, as no chance must be given to the colt to master us, and therefore we must reduce his power to do himself or us harm. A horse is (as before said) a very stupid animal, and has absolutely no power whatever of thinking about two things at the same moment.* It is therefore a good plan to give him some- thing that will occupy his entire atten- tion, and also keep him still, while we are first attempting to mount him. ■^- This is the cause of many falls in the liunting field. The horse is striding along to his fence, when the rider distracts his attention by some word or movement, and the two come to grief. 44 Hints on Colt-Breaking, This simple and useful article is a piece of rope, tied in a particular way, as used by the North American Indians, and which they call their " war- bridle." Take an ordinary piece of rope about three yards long, and at the end of it tie a simple knot. Then at the distance Fig. 7. of about a foot tie another of the same shape, only leave it open. You now pass the first knot, in this direction, through the second one, from the far Hints on CoIt-Brcaking. 45 side, wliicli you pull tight so as to fix Fig. 8. Fig. U. the lirst, and this leaves a small noose, 46 Hints on Colt-Breaking, the whole presenting the following ap- pearance (except that it is not pulled tight in the diagram so as to show the shape) : — Fig. 10. Place the noose in the colt's mouth, under his tongue, not over, with the knots on the off side ; bring the rope (3ver his neck, eight inches behind the Hints on Colt-Breaking. 47 ears, and pass it through the loop oii the near side, thus : — Fig. 11. You can now pull on your end of rope till you acquire whatever tightness you wish, when you fix it with a half- hoop running knot. By simply pulling the dangling end, you can release the pressure when you please, even when you are in the saddle, as it is 48 Hints on Colt-Breaking, withiu your reach when you stoop I'or- ward. One more diagram to illustrate what the bridle looks like when fixed. Fig. 12. You will notice that the ludiaii bridle does not interfere with the ordinary one, by which you intend to guide the animal. But it has this effect, that he is unable to think of anything else at the same Hints Oil Colf-Rreaking. 49 time ; or, at all events, lie can only do so in a spasmodic and interrupted fashion, which does not leave him the chance of concentrating his energy upon getting you off. I bought a horse, five years old, this summer, at a cheap rate, because he was difficult to ride. It happened that I was away from home for a month, so that, as he was fed on oats and out at grass, he had a good chance of being tolerably '' fresh " on my return. Having great confidence in this bridle, I had him out in a field, without any lunging or preparation, put the saddle and bridle on him, added the Indian bridle, and got up quietly. Knowing him to be a determined bucker, especially at starting, E 56 Hints on Colt-Brcakiug, I fully expected to have a lively scene, but all lie did was to slightly move his back, wag his head (which he tried to get down and couldn't), and walk quietly off. This did not seem to him exactly the right thing, nor what he was accus- tomed to, so he stopped twice to think about it, wagging his head each time. Had I struck or spurred him, no doubt he would have done his best to get me off, but as I did not excite him in any way, he reasoned that somehow or other bucking was less agreeable than it used to be, and that it was fully easier to take no trouble, but just go on quietly. I kept the Indian bridle in his mouth for two miles, and did not see any sign of wickedness about him, till we got to Hints oil Colt-Brcakiug. 51 a very steep hill, in a wood. Here he paused and wagged his head again, seeing a glorious opportunity to put me over it, but as his head was still held up in some unaccountable way by a master hand (no doubt he gave me the credit), he gave it up. At the foot of the hill, I reached forward and slipped the war- bridle out of his mouth, and, let me say to his credit, he has never once tried the slightest trick since. Only the other day a young fellow, who had never been with hounds in his life, rode this same animal for three or four hours, and thought it was ** chaff" when I told him to write to his mother that not only had he got the brush, but that he had ridden the most dans^erons 52 Hints on Colt-Breaking. horse in England, without getting killed ! When you have your colt fixed in this way, after having led him about for some time, you go through the preliminaries of mounting. Before actually getting up, it is a good plan to catch the front of the saddle with your right hand, the mane halfway up the neck with j^our left, and spring on to his withers. " A leg up " is better than springing, as it is more gentle. As you are lying thus on his withers, with your legs dangling down on the near side, vou have the opportunity of seeing how lie likes it without any risk, because he cannot kick you off, and is not at all likely to rear with your weight on his fore hand. Of course, the groom could hold him by a Hints 0)1 Colt-Brcaking. 53 rope — in which case there must be a head- stall on — but, nine times out of ten, that is quite unnecessary, as the war-bridle has the effect of keeping even a fidgety horse standing still, until he is ordered to move. If he takes no notice of this first attempt, you can get down and repeat it a few times,' because each point must be solidly gained before we attempt a new one. At last, when you judge him pretty safe, jump up as before on the withers, and slowly, and without any fuss, get your right leg over the saddle, when you can work your way back into it. This mode gives you the great advantage that you can at any moment regain the ground in safety, and it enables you to 54 Hints on Colt-Breaking. gauge exactly whether you can proceed or not. If he is restless, which is not at all probable, continue the climbing up and down the withers a few times more. The reader will observe that my idea is to give him a method by which the colt can be broken without any very special skill or bravery on his part. I greatly admire a man who can stick to a horse whatever he does ; but not being one of these myself, I have concluded that the best plan is to get the animal quiet before I get up. Having got into the saddle, you should sit perfectly still, except for patting his neck and encouraging him. Now come down agaiu, and get on by means of the Hints on Colt-Breaking. 55 stirrup ; repeat this eight or ten times, and your animal will he much advanced in the education which will enable you, directlv, to trust him out on the road. 56 Flints on Colt-Breaking. IV. If you have still any lingering doubt as to whether your colt is to be trusted, ride him the first time with the Indian bridle in his mouth. Cause your man to mount a steady old horse, and let him go on in front. I need scarcely say that all this is best done in an enclosure that the colt cannot see out of. Any small field with high fences will do ; but your object must be not to let him be excited by any sights or sounds he is not accustomed to at first. Let him then follow his leader round Hints on Colt-Brcaking. 57 the field for half an hour each day, oi', better still, twice a day, for a week or so, in accordance with how much time you can afford to spare on your pupil. During the same days, when you are not on his back, he should be broken to stand or walk quietly under the effect of unwonted sights and sounds. Each breaker will have his own idea as to what is the best variety, but among other things I recom- mend the following. Let your man come in at the gate with one of those noisy rattles that the youth- ful Hodge employs to scare birds from the corn, and make all the row he can as he walks up to, past, and away from the colt, who will very soon cease to regard it. I was amused by one of mine, that 58 Hints on Colt-Breaking. is constantly fed out of my pocket, push- ing the rattle contemptuously aside with liis nose; and yet, five minutes pre- viously, he had taken to his heels and gone away helter-skelter in the last stage of alarm. Then let him bring an umbrella, and, when about ten yards off, open it suddenly in the colt's face. He can gradually de- crease the distance till the lesson is learned. Next tie an old kettle or a tin biscuit- box by a rope to his tail, trailing on the ground. Be careful to let him hear the noise by making it jangle all round him before you finally tie it to him. Ill this way he does not mind it in the least. Hints on Colt-Breaking, 59 A good loud whistle is also of use, and beuefits your own lungs at the same time. Apoplectic gentlemen should avoid this ; but then they should avoid colt-breaking altogether. The whip should be loudly cracked all round him until he stands quite steady, unless you tell him to go on. This is of great importance because, in a crowded thoroughfare, it is very likely that the crack of some one else's whip may startle him, thus making him move forward, when, perhaps, the traftic will not admit of doing so. He should even be accus- tomed to back while the cracking is going on, as, in this way, he learns to regard only direct orders, and to pay no attention to extraneous sounds. 6o Hints on Colt-Breaking, Lastly, if you have any chance of getting him accustomed to steam, in any of its forms, do so. Generally, on a neighbouring farm, you can find a thresh- ing-machine at work, or some other agri- cultural instrument of horse-torture, and it will not be time wasted if you take him there and let him have a good look at it. At first he will look as surprised as Christopher Columbus might have done, had he been told that some one else dis- covered America ; but in time the feeling will wear off, and as, in these days, we can scarcely escape from the dominion of steam, you will very often have occasion to congratulate yourself on your fore- tliought. You are now ready to adventure forth Hints oil Colt-Brcakiug. 6i into the wide world — always behind the steady horse — and when you see how friendly and gentle your steed is, you will be glad that you have, on occasion, curbed your temper, and treated him kindly. It is an odd thing, considering how constantly we are all liable to little hastinesses, that we never look back, by any chance, with pleasure, on having been violent. No man ever says, " [ wish I had been more rough and abrupt that day ! " but many a one says, " I wish I could have kept quiet for a moment, and not made a fool of myself by saying so much as I did ! " And this, in spite of the leniency with wliich we regard most of our own faults. Add- ing them up, we make two and two equal 62 Hints oil Colt-Breakiug, to three, whereas in adding those of our friends, or our horses, two and two generally make five ! When your colt has got accustomed to going out daily, he will soon begin to move off before you are properly in the saddle. This should be checked at once, as the gentle walk soon becomes an im- mediate start forward, accompanied per- haps by a kick or buck. Insist upon his standing absolutely still, giving him a tap across the chest each time he moves forward, and saying "AVlioa!" a word he understands. A very little move forward must not be excused, or the lesson is not learned at all. Thus, in later days, you can get down to pick up a whip in the hunting field, lliufs on Colf-Brcakiiig. 63 and can remount among galloping- horses. When the road is an everyday aJBfair, causing no fear and but little surprise to our young pupil, we can put him in harness, with a view to drawing us be- hind him. Hitherto he has not had a collar on, nor a breeching, so you get these in their places, and drive liim about with the reins as before. Now, in harness, we never know what may happen. A wheel may come off, or the harness may break going downhill and let the cart on to the horse's hind quarters ; or, though we drive very nicely ourselves, we may meet others on the road who are 64 Hints on Colt-Breaking. not so skilful, and who bump against us. " There is nothing certain but death," says the Eastern proverb, so we cannot be quite sure of preparing against every event that can possibly happen, but we can at least do something towards that desirable end. Get a thin, smooth ash pole, about one and a half inch in diameter and eight feet long, and with this, when the horse is in motion, touch him gently all over in those places where he is not used to be touched. Behind and in front of his fore legs, behind and in front of his hind legs, in the ribs, under the tail, over his back, everywhere, in fact, should be as it were prepared for any unexpected shock. If is Hints on Colt-Breaking. 65 the nature of the horse to try to get rid of anything that annoys him by biting, striking, or kicking at it ; but when he finds that your pole still keeps on touch- ing him, whether he likes it or not, he soon gives in, and submits to the inevit- able. Many horses do not like the feeling of being confined between the shafts, so you can ascertain whether such is the case with your colt, by putting the ash pole through the shaft-hole, tying it on with a piece of string, with the end traiHng behind on the ground. You can practise him with this, first one side, then the other, taking care to turn him about so that it shall touch his hind legs ; or you can have a couple of poles, and put 66 Hi7its oil Colt-Breaking. them both on at once, which is the better plan, as more nearly resembling the two shafts. Next take a light round log — suiB- ciently wide to keep the traces well out, to prevent entanglement — and drive him all round, pulling it behind him. I like a short chain, fixed by a staple in the log, and then a short length of rope to connect the traces to the chain^ because, in the event of any difficulty, it is well to have something you can cut^ and a horse may very well break his leg be- fore he can get rid of a stout chain. Then, a heavier log, in the same style. Of course, the colt should be driven up a hill a few times, so that you may Hints on Colt-Breaking. 67 be sure he takes the collar well, and will not throw it up when he feels a weight behind him. A nice thing to have on the premises, for those who put many colts in har- ness, is an inexpensive little carriage, which costs about a pound. It consists Fig. 13. of a pair of old wheels and an axle (which can be picked up for a few shillings anywhere), and to this you rig a couple of rough ash shafts — your own manufacture, if you wish to save expense. 68 Hints on Colt-Breaking. The shafts should be about three feet longer than usual, so that, if the horse should kick — which I cannot imagine our paragon doing — he cannot reach the axle. Of course he might kick over the shafts and get in a mess, but that might happen any way. The advantage of this little go-cart is, that, being very light, a horse will cheer- fully face his hills with it, however steep, the first time of asking, and thus gets into the habit of thinking no more of a hill than of the level. In the same way, going downhill, he has not a great weight to keep back, and he is not an- noyed by the carriage forcing him for- wards. Also, as you walk behind on your own legs, it is not likely that you Hints 07t Colt-Breaking. 69 will be killed yourself. The only dis- advantage is, that you can hardly treat the horse's mouth with the precision that would be possible were you comfortably established in a seat ; but that is a minor affair, with the mouth already made, and is not to be compared with the serious disadvantage of teaching your animal to jibe. The colt is now ready to drive, when and where you like, in an ordinary dog- cart. Still, keep the weight as light as possible, and always, when you take the collar off, see that his neck is rubbed dry, and then well sponged with strong salt and water. No animal whose neck pains him will go into the collar ; you wouldn't yourself; and we wish him to 70 Hints on Colt-Breaking. understand that all we ask him to do is reasonable, and will put him to no suffering. I can strongly recommend, both for use in breaking and after a horse is quite steady, the excellent rein patented by Mr. Serjeant, and sold by Lee, of Long Acre, London. He has cleverly applied to everyday use the principle shown in diagram 17. The rein begins at the crupper, passes to the mouth, and thence back to the driver's hands. Thus the horse is driven both by his head and tail, and is fixed in such a fashion that he certainly cannot run away, or rear, while any attempt at kicking is almost entirely neutralized. This rein is a real boon to all nervous drivers, and is of the Hints on Colt-Breaking, 71 greatest value to people living in a town, where it may be very inconvenient to put in practice the maxims I have set down for controlling a horse. So power- ful is the effect that a horse may be easily driven without any bit in his mouth at all, the rein being merely passed through the sides of the noseband. At the same time it is a most gentle and humane appliance, no force being applied but that of a steady pulL Many a good horse, that weighs on the hand a little, would become a totally different animal to drive with this rein, as he might be taken any distance without wearying the wrist. I should like, at all events, to see all ladies using it, as they w^ould be much less likely to be taken by surprise 72 Hints on Colt-Breaking. when staring about, bowing to passing friends, and, in fact, attending to any- thing but the animal they are driving, as the general way of ladies is. Hints on Colt-Breaking. 73 Y. Now to teach your colt how to jump. But, although I put this subject after the instruction in riding and driving merely because every one does not wish his colt to jump, yet, chronologically, speaking, I should really teach him, very gently, before the saddle and harness work, beginning at about two and a half years old, and giving him very little of it. Hitherto you will notice that my instructions have not necessitated the 74 Hints on Colt-Breaking. outlay of any vast capital, but I am now going to advise the disbursement of some seven pounds, with a view to forming a ring in a corner of a field, like this : Fig. 14. —Bird's-eye View. Hints on Colt-Bi' caking. 75 This ring may be made of the roughest material, and need not be so beautifully round as I have drawn it with the aid of a pair of compasses. It should be a hundred yards in circumference, so that the horse may not come too suddenly upon the jumps, and should be laid deeply with tan. The outer circle should consist of posts and rails, five and a half feet high, or six feet is still better ; the inner, four feet high, eight feet distant from the first. A is a gateway, to let you in with the horse. At B you will notice the ring is narrowed by a slanting bar running to 76 Hints Oft Colt-Breaking. the outer ring and meeting two posts, arranged thusj — Fig. 15, On the inner ring two similar posts Fig. 16. are placed so that we can put a stout Hints on Colt-Breaking. 77 bar between them at any of the three altitudes we please. The reason that the ring is narrowed at this point from eight feet to four feet is, that the horse cannot well turn round, and so cannot refuse, unless he stops dead, which is not likely if you run from behind with a whip at the right moment. The uprights are supported by the posts and rails that form the ring on the inner side, and by a bar or two connect- ing the larger ring on the outer side, but you can add a special stay if you please, because it is of the last import- ance that nothing should give way. At c we have a bank thrown up, three feet high, two feet wide on the 78 Hints on Colt-Breaking. top, six feet wide at the base, with a ditch on each side two feet wide. The whole thus measures ten feet from one side to the other of the ditches. At D we have a water-jump cut out, lined roughly with cement, and filled with water, a foot deep and six feet wide. You now take your stand in the middle of the ring, with a whip, a sieve, and a tin of oats, and drive the colt round, from the gateway to the left. A very little driving will get him over the water, but the bank and double ditch generally puzzle him a good deal at first. If he seems afraid of these, take a rope, tied to his halter, in your hand, and jump on to the bank yourself, and then off, when Hiiifs on Colt-Breaking. 79 he will do the same. You must not at any time let him fly the whole ten feet, as many spirited youngsters will do with ease ; but when he does that you must stop him, put on the rope, and lead him back yourself, jumping on and off. By this process, he does not get enough way on him to fly, and so is content to imi- tate your off and on motion. Be careful that he does not do this so quickly as to alight on your heels, than which there is scarcely a more disagreeable sensation. The timber-jump can remain quite low for several days, so that the colt may not be flustered, and may learn to have his hind legs in the right place when he takes off. Always stop him at E, and reward 8o Hints on Colt-Breaking, him with a little oats in the sieve. E is some distance from the timber, because the colt learns in a few minutes where to stop for his oats, and we do not wish to teach him to stop abruptly imme- diately on reaching the ground. Six times round the ring is enough for each lesson, as it is very important not to weary him out with what must seem to him a very useless performance. On the contrary, with only six rounds and six rewards the colt will always be most wilhng to come into the ring, and will be especially brave at the timber, as he well knows he can stop on the other side for the oats, which you can vary with sugar or carrot — the principle is the same. Hints on Colt-Breaking. 8i I have a colt who will go round of his own accord, with the timber at five feet high, always stopping systematically at E. I have had many requests from friends to be " allowed to come, one day, and ride round your ring ; " but I have not yet seen the one who will do so, when the time comes ! They say, " Ah, I see ! you put the horse round by himself; then there is no need for me to ride him ! " Nor is there. That is the idea. If there is to be a fall, let the horse have it to himself. You won't benefit him in any way by sharing the danger with him; on the contrary, your weight and your hands on the bridle are, unless you are a very fine rider, of great disadvantage G 82 Hints on Colt-Breaking. to him. As a general rule, it is not the top rail, but the bridle ., which throws a horse down. I aro quite aware that some Irish trainers drive (with reins) the animal round a somewhat similar ring, instead of letting him go by himself. But I consider this a very inferior system, for one important reason. If the horse goes by himself he has nothing to distract his attention, and begins to judge for himself where to take off. You will often find this of great advantage — under a tree, say, with your hat smashed down on your forehead, and a fence out of the wood in front of you. Then where are you, if you have taught the horse never to jump except when he got " the office " ? There runs a story of Hints on Colt-Breaking, 83 how one niglit before a horse-fair, a stranger to that particular region loudly boasted that he had the cleanest and best jumper of any man in the inn. This was angrily denied, and when he said that Ids would clear a single straw held four feet from the ground, the state- ment was received with loud derision. So he managed to book various one and two guinea bets, till he had something like twenty on, offering to do the feat then and there. The horse was brought out and saddled. Two men held the straw between them, at a measured four feet high, the owner got on, took a short run, and jumped it, clean and clever, as he had said. The horse teas blind, and, being an old hunter, always jumped when 84 Hints on Colt-Breaking. he got "the ofiSce," for fear of falling. Not knowing what he was getting over, he had a habit of jumping about four and a half feet high every time.* Now, in the matter of jumping, unlike any other part of his education, I like a horse to think a little for himself, or, as Wbyte Melville puts it, to take care of the bigger fool of the two. We attain this end best by letting him jump first by himself, till he is thoroughly used to it. You can easily teach him to do doubles * This was in the " good old days," and I believe the man made a large income with his simple trick, by going from one fair to another. But this easy guilefulness would not be such a fortune nowadays. Some one would write all about it to the Field ! Hints on Colt-Breaking, 85 cleverly by putting up a low bar at f, and as he knows already that there is one at B, he soon gets very smart about it. This process does not admit of a horse becoming a rusher ; it makes him crafty and thoughtful, because he knows from experience that you may change the timber-jump any moment. The others he soon despises. You can have a hurdle, laced with boughs, etc., tied to the bars at B, to represent a hedge, but always with the bars behind it, so that he will come down if he attempts any liberties. Next change the wooden hurdle for an iron one, and you will have a tolerably safe horse at the end of the lesson. He 86 Hints on Colt-Breaking. is almost sure to rap it once, but never twice. If steeplechase horses were taught in this way, we should not see quite so much falling ; but they are allowed to " chance " so many weak fences when they are under instruction, that they always imagine most of them can be run through. An iron hurdle will utterly prevent that notion ever taking hold of their minds. It is as well to ride the horse round the ring with only a low jump up, merely that he may have the feeling of beiug ridden at an obstacle. He will never refuse in his own ring, and will thus be very unlikely to do so when you get him out with the hounds, because horses are such creatures of habit, that Hints 011 Colt-Breaking, 8j instinct tells tliem exactly what you mean when you put them at a fence, from association with the same feeling in the ring. In this jumping business, I must repeat that you cannot teach your colt too gradually. Bring him on by degrees, and he will never know how to refuse ; whereas, if you force him up against a high rail that frightens him, he will soon find you can not get him over against his will, which is a fatal lesson for him to learn. The pleasure which is to be got out of the very small outlay on the ring is enormous, and will amply repay the cost. Also, at a later date, when, perhaps, you have cleared a gate in good style together, 88 Hints on Colt-Breaking, you will like to be able to say, " / taught him myself V " And oil ! my beloved 'earers," as the great Jorrocks says, now that you have a well-educated animal, do ride him properly. To that end, buy a copy of Whyte Melville's " Riding Recollections ; " read, mark, learn, and inwardly digest it, and, when you have done so, read it / again. It is the very best book that ever was written on the subject, and probably that ever will be; every one who understands horses will agree with nearly every word he says. Only at page 75 he quotes " one of the finest horsemen in Europe," as saying, " I am the owner, I wish I could say the master, of the four best hunters I ever Hints on Colt-Breaking. 89 had in my life." Had the gentleman but known how to handle his horse before he went hunting, he need not have spoken in so self-depreciatory a strain ; whereas Melville seems to imply that we must expect little peculiarities in different horses, and that they are incurable. ^ 90 Hints on Colt-Breaking. VI. An ingenious gentleman, writiug a book on Iceland, and determined to have it very complete, headed one of his chap- ters— CHAPTER VI. SNAKES IN ICELAND. and the whole chapter consisted of the words, " There are no snakes in Ice- land." Annexing this idea, I was about to call my sixth chapter, " Vicious Horses," and then say, " There are no vicious horses." (Tl^ Hints on Colt-Breaking. 91 Nor are there, unless, as I am told, there are some that are mad ; but I never saw one of these. However, although there are no horses naturally vicious, there are a good many that learn various vices from the incom- petent men who handle them ; and it may be that you may pick up one of these at Tattersall's or some other auction mart, and would like to keep the animal could you but rid him of some disagree- able habit he has acquired. We will, therefore, consider some of the more usual failings. A horse that bites should have placed in his mouth a wooden roller about two inches thick, instead of a bit. Rarey used this in a round form, but it is more 92 Hints on Colt-Breaking. painful in an octagonal form, when the horse tries to snap at you. With this in his mouth he cannot close his teeth on you, and if you stroke him all over about the head and neck, and speak roughly to him when he tries to bite, he will soon relinquish this dangerous habit. I know of nothing that proves the super- lative stupidity of the horse more than this fact — put a muzzle on him and stroke him as advised, he will bite you when you remove it ; put the wooden roller in his mouth, and he will not bite you after his lesson is complete. One would think he would know, in each case, that the preventive is removed, but it is not so. A horse that hites his crih and sucks in Hints on Colt-Breaking. 93 his wind, will speedily go wrong in that essential particular. The only way to cure this is to have him in a smooth box, with absolutely nothing to lay hold of. Grive him his oats in a sieve on the ground, taking it away when empty, and put his hay in a corner. A horse is always apt to return to this habit, and it would be well at no time to tie him up by the head in a stall with a manger in front of him. A horse that weaves must always be kept in a loose-box. This habit is first acquired out of pure idleness, as a means of amusing himself. This sort of horse is generally a poor doer, but I do not know that there are any direct bad re- sults from this disagreeable trick. 94 Hints on Colt-Breaking. A horse that hreahs his halter can easily be cured by adopting this remedy. Fig. 17. Take a rope (half-inch) about eighteen feet long. Begin at A, pass the rope to the off side, then under his tail ; bring it to the near and across to the off again, so that his tail is in a loop ; then round in front of his chest and back Hints on Colt-Breaking. 95 again to a. Here tie to the end you have in your hand, and pass under his belly, fastening it securely exactly oppo- site A on the off side, thus making a belly-band to prevent the whole gear slipping upwards. Now tie one end of a short rope to his head-stall, pass it through a ring fixed on the manger, or on a post, and tie to his chest-rope. When a horse is in this position he will pull back both on his head and tail, and, disliking the feeling of it, will very soon desist. For a horse that hangs hack when led, this is a capital cure, and it also accustoms him to travel with his hind quarters well under him. The rope, at the place where it passes under the tail, should be lined 96 Hints on Colt-Breaking. with some soft wadding twisted round it, if the animal is to be led any distance, as, otherwise, the tail would become chafed and sore. If you tie him in this position to a stout post, you can very readily accustom him to any sights or sounds that you wish him to make acquaintance with, as he cannot get away, and will very soon learn that you do not hurt him. A horse that is difficult to put in a train should be treated in this way for a day or two previously, and he will then readily follow wherever you lead him. Place in the mouth of a horse that is difficult to clip, the Indian war-bridle, and he will be then a great deal more tract- Hints on Colt-Breaking. 97 able and easier to handle. This is much more efficient than the twitch generally in use, and has the great advantage of neither frightening nor hurting him. A horse that has been twitched on the ear never forgets it, and some become, in consequence, so shy of letting you ap- proach their ears at all, that it is a work of time and difficulty to get a bridle on. On the contrary, a horse never has any objection to renewing his acquaintance with the Indian bridle, and you can always put it in his mouth after it has once been there. If a horse is so vicious that it is danger- ous to approach him, drive him into a stall and then close him in. Take your ash pole and drive a nail into it about u 98 Hints on Colt-Breaking, two feet from the end. Then make up a rope halter in the following way : — Fig. 18. Next play it up and down upon the horse's neck, and about his ears till he gets tired of flinching away from it, and takes little notice. Then let that part of the halter which is intended to rest behind the ears fall into its place, keeping the rest suspended on the pole. A quick jerk of the pole down the horse's nose and Hints on Colt-Breaking. 99 under his jaw will bring the halter jinto its proper place and you can then with- draw the pole, holding the animal with the rope. '[(}. U) When a horse ruhs Ids tail, tie it about * Why the gentleman who did the ilhistnitiuny should have made this such an amiahle-lookiLg aniaial, I dun't know. loo Hints on Colt-Breaking. four inches from the top, with a piece of tape. Four inches lower tie with another piece. The tail should also be well washed Fig. 20. with soap and water, and some lard oil rubbed round its junction with the body. AVhen a horse is difficult to catch, have him driven into a small enclosure or yard, with fence or wall so high that he cannot get out. Something about ten yards square is a good size, and any place with Hints on Colt-Breaking. loi corners is better than a round shape, as, in the latter case, a horse can keep on going away from yon, whereas, in a square, you can get him into a corner. Take your whip in your left hand (a good long whip that will reach all over the place), and with your right commence to lead him round and round the enclosure, saying, " Come along," from time to time. In a minute or two, cease holding him by the head, and invite him to *^ come along," as before. He will probably follow a step or two, and then stop, as he has not the slightest wish to follow you. Go back to him, and if he will not come, gradually pass down his near side till you get behind him. He is sure to jump away, when you must give him a sharp cut over the heels I02 Hints on Colt-Breaking, with the whip. This will cause him to dash wildly round his cage, but you can easily get him in a corner, with his heels towards you, and his head away. Go carefully up the near side, till you get hold of his head, and begin all over again, each time that he turns his heels towards you hitting them smartly with the whip. Five minutes of this simple lesson, patting his neck when his head is towards you, and hitting his heels when they are towards you, will convince him that his only safety lies in keeping that part of him next you which receives no punish- ment. He will soon follow your whip- hand backwards and forwards, in and out, round and round, or in any strange figure you like to devise. Hints on Colt-Breaking. 103 At first he will break away, and then retribution must be immediate, so that he associates the very act of turning away with a blow. I take it that about eight or ten such divergences from the path of duty are the very most an ordinary horse will attempt. Curiously enough, the more alarmed a horse is for the whip, the more quickly he can be taught to obey. It seems to become his fetish or god, and he cannot take his eye off it. This method has no tendency to make a horse vicious. I was staying at a farmhouse this summer with a colt I had trained in this way. The farmer would not believe me when 1 assured him the animal was follow- ing not me^ but the whip. I offered to I04 Hints oil Colt-Breaking. teach a cob he had which was pecuHarly nervous ; a mere swish of the whip would make it, when in harness, start off at ten miles an hour. He smiled at my idea, and said that the more I hit her the more nervous and wild she would become. I gave her three or four lessons, and this was the result in actual practice : — The night before I left, some horses were being- driven down the road, when this cob made a run at the fence that sej^arated her from them, and calmly trotted after them. I seized a whip and walked after her. A mile from home I found her standing in the middle of the road. I loudly cracked the whip as I walked up to her (which, one would think, would have made her turn round and run), Hints on Coif-Breaking, 105 saying at the same time " Come along ! " She did " come along." I never touched her with one finger, but led her back, behind the ivkij:), right into her own stall, and we passed one or two gigs and carts on the way. If a horse kicks, he must be taught to believe that we do not care whether he kicks or not, as regards fear, but that, as a sample of bad manners, we will not tolerate such behaviour. To render him powerless we must throw him down. Put on him a head-stall, the saddle and crupper of an old set of harness, and then attach a rope to the saddle on the off side. Let this rope pass through his halter at the front portion and back again, through io5 Hints on Colt-Breaking. the off ring of the saddle, across his back, to the near side. Fig. 21. Now take a stirrup leather and strap lip his near fore leg. Hints on Colt-Breaking, 107 Standing on the near side with your Fig. 22. rope in your Imnd, you can now pull him io8 Hints on Colt-Breaking, gently over, without any shock. It is just as well to have a man standing on the near side holding a rope attached to the horse's tail, so as to prevent any chance of the animal falling to the off, and doubling his neck under him ; but when you get clever at this game, you can do it yourself. What a difference there is between this method and the delightful old-fashioned one employed by most vets of getting half a dozen powerful yokels to pull a colt all round a field, and finally throw him with a thud that shakes several acres and the poor beast's whole system ! Having got him down, you can pre- vent his getting up by simply pulling his head round towards his body. Now take your long pole and touch him all Hints on Colt-Byeaking. 109 over, about the liiiid legs, under the tail, in the ribs, etc. He will kick out, per- FiG. 24. baps, at first, but soon gives in, when you can pick up any leg with your hand. Sit down on his body, keeping his head off the ground, and talk to him a little. Pat him, and show him you no Hints on Colt-Breaking. are quite at your ease, whether he is or not. In this connection, I may say that the best and easiest way to keep down a horse that falls in harness is not to sit on his head, but to pull his head round to his body, as above indicated. This saves your harness from getting quite so many scratches, and renders the horse absolutely powerless to rise. If a horse holts^ in saddle or harness, from fright, get him accustomed as well as you can, at home, to the object which causes his alarm, till he ceases to mind it. If he holts from eagerness or vice, you can cure him with the long reins, paying special attention to making him back. If a horse refuses at his jumps, you Hints on Colt-Breaking. 1 1 1 must get him in your ring, and begin very humbly. Give him plenty of a low jump before you give hun a higher. It is only fear of his incapacity to sur- mount an obstacle that makes a horse afraid to try. Any horse would rather follow his friends in a run than remain behind, so that we see it must be a powerful motive that will cause him to remain behind. That motive is fear^ the mainspring of nearly all the pecu- liarities that v:e call ^' vice." It may be that the horse has fevered feet, or hot tendons, and cannot bear the idea of rising in the air to come down with all his weight and yours added. Of course, a horse that has any disease of a sort to make jumping a pain, either before 1 1 2 Hints on Colt-Breaking. or behind, should be cured before his instruction is proceeded with. A huck'jmnping horse should first be thrown down and treated as we did the kicker, then allowed to rise ; the Indian bridle shoukl be placed in his moutb, the saddle put on, and then he should be quietly mounted and dismounted several times ; he will soon give it up under this treatment. A rearer can easily be cured with the long reins. Make him back, and if he is a very bad case, risk pulling him over once. He won't like that. It amuses him to get rid of his rider by going up on end to an alarming extent, but the fun is not so obvious when he has to come backwards by Hints oji Colf-Brcaki)ig. 1 1 3 himself. This sort of horse won't lie sulkily on the ground, l)ut, all the same, cut him severely with the whip the instant he is down. It confuses him dreadfully to be first pulled over and then knocked up ! "On the whole," he thinks, '' standing on my own four legs securely may prevent both these dis- agreeables." And it does. A horse difficult to mount can be rendered quite quiet with the Indian bridle. I am not an advocate for tying his head and tail together, but this is also a sure preventive to his moving as you get up. Pass the rope from his bridle, under the girths, to his tail, and then pull it until you get him slightly into the form of a bow. 1 114 Hiuts on Colt-Breaking, A horse that rushes at his fences can most easily be cured by a series of Fig. 25. double jumps in the ring. Begin low ; he will rush at the first, which will land him almost on the top of the second, but with a convulsive twist he will probably get over. The next time he will be much more wary, and will very Hints oil Colt-Breaking. 1 1 5 soon, for his own sake, go collectedly np to each fence, for fear there may be another close under his nose when he lands. A horse that is difficult to harness should have the Indian bridle placed in his mouth, when the operation will be- come much more simple. A jibbe^-' in harness is the most difficult animal of all to manage, because when he is between the shafts we cannot do just as we like with him. First, throw him down (two or three times, if neces- sary), to show your power. Then give him long lessons with the rein, treating him just as we did the unbroken colt, with this difference, that each stage must be continued for a longer time, ii6 Hints on Colt-Breaking. and great patience must be shown. When you get him into the light car- riage (wheels, axle, and shafts only) make him back for five minutes before you allow him to go forward. This he will generally be very glad to do, when you let him. The best way to back him is to stand in front of him, pressing the palm of your hand against the soft part of his nose. There is no pain in this, but the constantly repeated pres- sure becomes irksome, causing him to yield. I should recommend every one in- terested in the subject to see Professor Sample's curious cage for breaking. 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