Ml/TO

EVPICKSTOME

LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.

OIF-T

Accession Class

HINTS

Fruit Growing.

BY

H. E. V. PICKSTONE

OF THE *"

UNIVERSITY

OF

1001:

CAPE TIMES LIMITED, PRINTERS AND LITHOGRAPHERS,
ST. GEORGE'S STREET CAPE To\vx.

CONTENTS

PAGE.

Introduction... ... ... ... ... 1

Valuable Tables ... ... ... ... ... 2

The Horticultural Past ... ... ... ... 3

Revival of Interest in Horticulture ... ... ... 7

Botanic Gardens ... ... ... ,.. ... 9

Prospects of Building up an African Fruit Trade ... 10

Dried Fruit ... .. ... ... ... ... 13

Canning ... ... ... ... ... ... 15

Stocks ... ... .. ... ... 17

Remedy after getting Wrong Sorts planted or Varieties

planted on Wrong Roots ... ... ... 21

Orchard Irrigation ... ... ... ... ... 22

Manuring Orchards ... ... ... ... ... 27

Orchard Cultivation ... ... ... ... ... 28

Orchard Improvement ... ... ... ... 29

What to do with your Old Orchards ... ... ... 32

A Basis on which Farmers can decide whether to add

Fruit growing to their other sources of income ... 33

The initial difficulties of establishing Orchards in S. Africa 33
The general treatment at Planting and during first season's

growth of a young Orchard ... ... ... 35

General Remarks on Pruning ... ... ... ... 39

Reported tendency of Farmers, to now neglect Pruning ... 41

The Pruning of young deciduous Trees the year after

planting ... ... ... ... ... 43

Note ... ... ... ... ... ... 44

The Apple ... ... ... ... ... ... 44

The Pear ... ... ... ... ... 45

The Peach ... ... ... ... ... 45

The Apricot ... ... ... ... ... ... 47

The Plum (including all Prunes)' ... ... ... 48

Spraying ... ... ... ... ... 49

Insect Pests ... ... ... ... ... 53

96755

Late and Early Bloomers

Improper starting with Spring growth of Domestic Plums

and other Fruit Trees... ... ... ... 56

Why Fruit does not set ... ... ... ... 57

Die back caused by sour sap ... ... ... ... 58

Importance of planting Trees and not waiting for rain ... 60

The California Prune... ... ... ... ... 60

Japanese Plums ... ... ... ... ... 62

Descriptive List of Fruit Trees :

Apples ... ... ... ... ... 64

Pears ... ... ... 69

Peaches... ... ... ... ... 7P>

Nectarines ... . ... ...

Apricots... ... ... ... ...

Plums ... .... ... ... ...

Japanese and Oriental PI runs .. ...

Prunes ... ... ... ... ...

Cherries... .., ... ... .,,

Miscellaneous Fruits :

Figs, Quinces, Soft Shell Almonds, Japanese
Walnuts, &c....

Citrus Fruits

Old Orchards

Demand

Site for Citrus Orchard

Setting out an Orchard

Stocks

Improvement in Varieties

Pruning

Mai di Gorma (or root rot)

Varieties of Citrus Trees

INTRODUCTION.

We trust the following " Hints to Growers " may be found of
some little service to some of those who are following and who
intend embarking in our Industry and also to the Dilettante who
finds amusement in the garden. We have tried to make our
remarks practical and the ideas intelligible. Several paragraphs
have been taken over from foreign sources, as we found there our
own ideas very clearly expressed. Advice tendered herein to
growers is not theoretical but is based in nearly every instance on
personal experience, or the experience of others that has come
under our observation. The whole has been brought thoroughly
up to the date of c ur latest experience, which in some instances
readers will see it has been found necessary to alter or modify
from those contained in our last catalogue. No attempt has been
made to deal with technical questions such as the character of
soils, the action of manures, the budding and grafts of trees, the
circulation of sap, &c. ; all these matters can be found in the
numerous standard works on fruit culture written by much abler
pens than ours, and by men who have technical knowledge which
we make no claim to possess.

VALUABLE'TABLES.

DISTANCES FOR PLANTING.

Apples 20 to 30 feet apart each way.

Pears, standard 15 to 20 feet apart each way.

Pears, dwarf 10 to 15 feet apart each way.

Peach 15 to 20 feet apart each way.

Plums 15 to 20 feet apart each way.

Quinces ... ... ... ... 12 to 16 feet apart each way.

NUMBER OF TREES ON AN ACRE AT VARIOUS DISTANCES.

10ft. x 10 ft. ... ... ... 435

lift, x 11 ft. ... ... ... 360

12ft. x 12 ft. ... ... ... 302

13ft, x 13 ft. ... ... ... 257

14ft. x 14 ft. ... ... ... 222

15ft, x 15 ft, ... ... ... 193

16ft, x 16ft. ... ... ... 175

17 ft.,x 17 ft. ... ... ... 150

18ft. x 18 ft. ... ... ... 134

19ft x!9ft, ... ... ... 120

20ft. x 20 ft. ... ... ... 108

25ft, x 25 ft, ... ... ... 69

30ft. x 30 ft. ... ... ... 48

To ascertain the number of trees or plants required for an acre :
Multiply together the distance that the trees are to be set apart

each way and divide this into 43,560 (the number of square feet
in an acre), which will give the number required.

OF THE
UNIVERSITY

THE HORTICULTURAL PAST.

Our experience is that there are two classes of farmers in this
•country, who are paying attention to fruit growing.

First the old-fashioned type who swears by and insists on
continuing to plant the well-known varieties, such as Summer or
Winter Saffron in pears, Wemmer Hoek, Hugo or May in
in apples, and peaches which come under the generic style of Los
pit and Taai pit ; in apricots, Cape early and late.

Then again the new man, v/ho must have everything in new
and latest varieties either English or American, and who can see
no merit in anything standing in our old orchards. Now, after
nine years careful study of our old Cape orchards, and of pushing
into public notice new varieties from England, America and
Australia, we consider we are able to give an opinion of
some value as to the respective merits of the different ideas of
these several classes of growers and planters.

Nine years ago we found very few young orchards being
planted, either East or West. In the West such planting was
almost entirely confined to the planting of the old varieties
mentioned. In the East again at this period planting was
generally confined to new varieties which had been introduced
during late years by the several nursery firms engaged in
distributing fruit trees.

In the West we would say that the planting was being under-
taken by those who had proved that small profits could be made
•out of their orchards then standing, by consigning to local
markets, by drying in the sun by the slipshod methods then in
vogue, and by selling to the jam factories.

In the East we think that the planting was mainly due
(outside of many commercial citrus orchards) to the wish of the
individual farmer to have enough fruit to supply his household
needs and therefore the lists of varieties ripening at different
times vide the nurserymen's catalogue appealed to the idea of
planters, to have a continual small supply of fruits of different
dates of ripening, colour, and characteristics. We would
now wish to point out to our readers that although st this
-date the planting being undertaken was commercially of
practically no value to the country, we consider at the
same time very good work indeed had formerly been done both
East and West, but particularly in the West, towards assisting,
One reason is this : we feel satisfied that very many years ago prob-
ably, in the last century, and in some instances early in the present
one, when France was far in the van of Horticultural progress and
knowledge, in fact to an extent that we think is scarcely
recognized to- day, and when the influence of France probably passed

into Belgium and over the eastern frontier, settlers at the Cape-
were up-to-date and well to the front in the varieties that were
being introduced. Whether this was due to the enterprise of the
old Dutch East Indian Company, or whether to individual effort we
are uncertain, but we incline to favour the former theory, as we
know that the Dutch East Indian Company, were fully alive to the
necessity of the Agricultural development of their Colonies ; in
fact, we have 110 hesitation in saying that probably they did
infinitely more for the Colony than our Agricultural Department
since its establishment inthis respect. We practically have this
position, during the last Century and also in the earlier half of
of the present one the best varieties of fruits were being
introduced as, they created for themselves a reputation in Europe,,
these varieties were disseminated through the country, being as a
matter of fact widely scattered, we would take it in the usual way
that prevailed in those days, when a farmer trekked further inta
the country he would accept from his neighbours a few trees of the
varieties they favoured to stock his orchard, in his new home,
It is indeed a most interesting study to work out and follow up
the Horticultural History of the Dutch and other settlers.

We are satisfied, as we said before, that under the Dutch regime
the best and most popular European varieties were introduced as-
they forced themselves into public notice. Thus we can to-day
trace they were planted out in the Peninsular, also in Hottentots
Holland. They include, amongst others, well-known old sorts in
Pears. Bon Chretien, Easter Beurre, Glout Morceau, Beurre Dielr
Beurre Clairgeau, Winter Nelis, Be rgamotte Crassane, Louis Bonne
de Jersey, White Doyenne, Duchesse D'Angouleme, Doyenne
D'Ete, St. Germain, Yan Mons Leon ie Clerk.

No doubt many other varieties were introduced at the same
time, but in the operation of natural selection, the survival of the-
fittest has been going on for such a long period of years that
undoubtedly very many have been discarded long ago.

Let us follow up the history of the introduction of these varieties,
As we said before, they were all planted in the vicinity of Cape
Town, giving at the time a wide selection of fruit covering, many
months of ripening and having every quality possible, and having
been amply tested at home before their introduction. We would
however take it that although our theory is the Government intro-
duced them this Government did not through experts or by any
means take care to demonstrate and teach the grower the way of
bringing out the points of their varieties, or if so, the art has been
entirely lost, this information and knowledge being absolutely
necessary to ensure their maintaining the reputation which, as we
said, led to their introduction. Hence, although all these varieties
named grew and thrived well, and were originally distributed in
the surrounding, districts to wit S^ellenbosch, Somerset West,
Paarl, and indeed in all the old villages and in many of the old
farms established early in the century, they gradually dropped
out of favour, and the farmers fell back on the few varieties

which grew readily and most strongly, and which were easily
propagated by suckers, in fact Horticulture as an art never took
i*oot here. We can readily follow up our idea by taking the
•characteristics of some of the different varieties named.

The Dji/enne D'Ete has been retained generally throughout the
country because it is very eaiiy, in fact the earliest ripener still
in the country, and if picked green is pleasant and good to eat.

The Bon Chretien had been discarded because it needed picking
green and hard, and if not picked in this state was found when
fit ill on the tree rotten at the core. The Winter Nells had been
discarded because it was small, unattractive in appearance and
was bullet hard. The Easter Beurre likewise was bullet hard,
and used for pigs' food ; these two latter were rejected, the
former being too small and the latter not exactly too hard, but at
nil events not equal to Winter Saffron, it neither bore s;> well,
grew so strongly, nor tasted so well.

Some of our readers may think we are too hard on the descen-
dants of the introducers of these valuable varieties, we however
-claim that we are not so.

Some will say, oh yes, but where were the markets for these
good varieties ; farmers could not sell them that is the reason why
they were gradually rejected by those who trekked North, South-
east ani West. This is a plausible excuse but will not bear analysis.
Because at the time of our landing here Peninsular growers with a
few exceptions were entirely ignorant of the names, value, and
manner of picking to get the necessary results, in fact scores of
times we have had the fine varieties mentioned above abused by
those on whose places old trees wera standing for one or other
reason, which only showed they were quite ignorant of the way to
&reat the fruit to secure good results. To sum up, we will put it
again, Horticulture as a science never took root in this country,
because no steps were taken to disseminate knowledge, the
introduction of good fruits being considered all that was required.
We however know that even to this day it is thoroughly recognized
that it is perfectly useless to put into hands of growers even the
very best fruit trees without proper instruction as to the charac-
teristics and care of varieties, and later on the marketing of the
fruit,

We append here the origin of several of the old varieties that
we claim have been very many years out here.

Bon C/trctien raised in 1770, propagated by Williams' a nursery-
man, of Turnham Green, Middlesex. Introduced to U.S. 1799,
by Enoch Bartlett, of Dorchester near Rostcn ; is named after him
and was also early introduced to France.

White 1) 'U/'iiiK', raised in France over 200 years ago.

E( inter Beurre, originated in Garden of the Monastery of the
Oapucins at Louvain, distributed by Van Mons, beginning of
present century.

Van MOHS Leon Leclerk, raised by M. Leon Leclerk of Zaval,
fruited 182S.

Winter Nelis, raised early in the present century by M. Jean
Nelis of Malines in Belgium.

Duchesse D'Angouleme, raised early in the present century by
M. Aime-Pierre Andusson, of Angers, and named with per-
mission.

Glout Morceau, raised very early in the present century by
Councillor Hardenpont at Mons.

St. Germain, a very old French variety, originated end of 17th
century, near the place in France after which it takes its name.

Louise Bon de Jersey, raised by M. Longueval at Avranches in
1788.

Bergamotte Crassane, very old variety, raised in 1667 in
France, origin uncertain.

Beurre Die! an old Belgian seedling discovered by Van Mons
in the beginning of the century near Brussels.

Doyenne D^Ete origin obscure but well-known and popular at the-
beginning of the present century.

In regard to Peaches and Apricots, we consider that the varie-
ties widely grown and popular throughout the country, to be of
equally early arrival in this colony:

The Cape Freestone, so well known as the " Cape Peach," we
take to be a descendant of the Grosse Mignonne, a very old and
celebrated French variety, which has maintained its reputation
for close on 200 years. This variety practically comes true from seed,.
and we consider that its variableness is owing to its having been
propagated since its introduction both by seed and by grafting.

The White Parie (clingstone) is also an old French last
century variety, and ib one of the Pavie (or clingstone) class of
Peaches. We think the identity of the " Cape Clingstone " to be
found in the well-known and celebrated old French Clingstone
Poire de Pompone, which we can only take has been propagated in
several places at different times from seed as well by grafting, as-
we have seen so many variations in size and quality, although
each shows a similiarity which tends to show they are nearly
akin.

In Apricots we feel we are unable to determine anything in
regard to their origin and as to what varieties they spring from.
We gather that their identity has been lost owing to the haphazard
way in which they have been propagated since their introduction,

In Plums it is interesting to remark that practically every
variety, and there must have been many varieties that were intro-
duced in the early days of settlement, have failed to give satisfac-
tion to the planter, the result being that at the date of which we
write, if one examines the old plum trees scattered about the
country, one must come to the conclusion that the growing of the
better varieties had been long abandoned by the farmers, and that
the few that were standing and bearing fruit were of the varieties-
which were the stock carriers for the earliest importations, to wit,
the Xmas plum, a small round red one, which is nearly akin to
the myrobolan, and which we think to be identical with the-

myrobolan so celebrated as a non-suckering stock carrier in
Europe, Australia, and America. Then again the Early Golden
Drop, widely disseminated throughout the country, is a kindred
sort, and more or less identical, except in the colour of its fruit.*

The only other sort which one sees practically all over the
country is the small blue plum, which can be identified by the
number of suckers that it throws up ; this is undoubtedly the
Black Damas, used largely as a stock on which to grow plumsy
and the fruit of which is miserably sour and unpalatable.

We may add we have seen these three varieties named scattered
over the Colony, East and West, and through the Transvaal and
Orange River Colony. So here we claim we have the interesting
fact of the grafted sorts dropping clean out of existence, and the
stocks remaining and being disseminated as worthy of planting,
and in the matter of plums the problem has not yet been solved
in the country as to how to get a uniform good result from
Plums of the domestic type except as regards a few varieties.

REVIVAL OF INTEREST IN HORTICULTURE.

Some ten years ago our Industry, as an industry, was in a
parlous state, the planting being undertaken being on a
scale which prevented its ever cutting a figure in even inter-
Colonial trade and the Export as a possible Colonial Industry had
not been considered. Agriculture was at a low ebb, and the then
Government were fully alive to this fact. It was before we arrived
in Africa, but we know that the then Rhodes Ministry,
realizing the hopeless character of the Agricultural Industries,
were looking to fruit as a possible means of bettering the
condition of the farmers. We know from our own personal know-
ledge that Mr. Rhodes himself, also Messrs. Sauer and Merriman,
were keenly interested in the possibilities. Early in 1892, Mr.
Merriman being in London at the time, he spent much time in
Covent Garden personally satisfying himself as regards the
possibility of building up a trade, it was during the following
session of Parliament that Major Tamplin asked for a Select
Committee to enquire into the prospects of pushing a successful
industry, this being the natural outcome of the excellent returns-
received for the small lots of fruit sold in London that autumn.
In connection with the sale of this fruit the following special
Telegram to the " San Francisco Examiner " may be worth
quoting as showing the general interest taken in the matter of
South African fruits on the London Market.

Special to the " Examiner" London. — February 9th, 1892. — A
second cargo of fruit from South Africa arrived to-day, and it is
stated that every thing it comprises is in excellent condition. The first

History of myrobolan traced "back "1601.

8

cargo, which arrived last Thursday, brought fancy prices, peaches
selling as high as £ 4 for 3 dozen. . It is believed that equally good
figures will be received for the present consignment. The cargo
includes not only Peaches but Tomatoes, Grapes, Pine apples, and
Cucumbers, all of which are luxuries in London at this time of the
year. The trade seems to have been successfully inaugurated
between the Cape Colony and the Mother Country, and it is
believed that an immense and profitable field of enterprise has
been opened to all the Southern fruit-producing countries ; it is
certain that London can absorb any quantity of fruit at this season,
and there seems no likelihood of the new business being overdone.

Major Tamplin's motion was well received by the House,
showing its .feeling towards any possibility of Agricultural deve-
lopment. We would say that the net immediate result of the
Select Committee and the interest shown by the Government then
in power was the fact that it brought fruit-growing into the focus
of the public eye, which was what was needed at the time, but
there are undoubtedly very much greater results than this, which
ever since that date have been quietly accumulating as follows.

It has been we consider largely owing to the interest taken in
the Fruit Industry that farms in the Western Province
to-day have increased so enormously in value ; the value
has doubled, and in many instances trebled, within our own
knowledge. Many of our farmers in the West resent the
presence of the new comer, whose leaning in most instances
was fruit rather than wine. We claim, however, that it
is owing to the advent of these self -same uitlanders that many of
our farmers have been enabled to tide over what has been for all
a very severe struggle. Food stuffs and forage going up in price ;
wine going down (we remember it at i 2 10s. per leaguer.) Phyl-
loxera ravaging most districts placed our farmers in a most un-
enviable position. Five years ago mortgages were foreclosing right
and left, and the confidence of capitalists and merchants in the
future of the Western Farming industry had sunk to zero.

The interest taken in the newer fruits and the enteiprise often
of the farmers themselves and the confidence engendered by the
then satisfactory behaviour of the newer fruits, we consider turned
the scale as regards confidence in Western land. Wine farmers
will claim it was the wine industry ; we claim however no, as
wine was during this period at a very low figure indeed and the
farmers were at that time undecided with what stocks they could
successfully cope with phylloxera. As we say, from about four
years ago, prices of land in the Western Province has been steadily
going up — the result to the occupier being that his friend the
mortgagee, who was at that time gecting restless and uneasy, began
to be inclined even to help him with increased loans, and with
the assistance of these loans, which we- claim was justified by solid
natural increase in value of the soil, farmers were able to go on
with tree and vine planting, with the net result that to-day the
land in the Western Province. has increased in value to the extent
of several million sterling.

Due to increased confidence in agriculture and the opening up
of the North and the establishment of communications thereto. In
the Eastern Province, the result of the planting of fruit trees has
not, we consider, cut anything like the same figure in the develop-
ment of agriculture. The planting, however, has steadily gone
forward, and we know for a fact that merchants and others
interested in the development of the country at the back of them
have considerable confidence in the possibility of fruit cutting
quite a figure in the development of the country, in fact we know
of mortgagees who in lending money on land have insisted, before
doing so, that a certain number of fruit trees shall be plaated and
cared for as giving additional security for their money, and this
is as wholesome a sign as can well be.

Altogether we claim that eight years ago there began a revival
of interest in fruit-growing — we say advisedly revival —
because as we have stated in the chapter under the head of " The
Horticultural Past," we consider there was formerly a deep and
widely distributed interest in fruit. The difference between the
interest taken then and that taken now being, whereas it was the
natural interest of. an horticultural loving paople who had a lean-
ing towards improving their fruit, to-day it is the commercial
minded man who thinks he sees a chance of making money.

BOTANIC GARDENS.

We think a few lines in acknowledgment of the, good work
done by the Botanical Gardens in the Colony will not be out of
place. Let us recognize at once that they have done most
excellent work.

Throughout the British Colonies and Dependencies the
establishment of Botanical Gardens has invariably followed,
British rule. Without having any certain information as to the
origin of the idea we shall put it down to Kew, the Director ,of
which unique Institution has done an enormous lot of work in
assisting the Colonial and India Office in the development of
the cultivation of products of the soil. Perhaps in no other part
of Her Majesty's Dominions has this been , more clearly
demonstrated than in the West Indies, where owing to ,the
terrible depreciation in value of land and diminution of wealth,
•consequent upon the taking off of the sugar duties, the
financial ruin of our Colonies there appeared imminent. The
result of the Commission appointed by the Colonial Office in 1896
to enquire into the state, of the West Indies being that it was
decided that new products must be found to take the place of the
sugar cane, and it is mainly we believe through the agency of these
institutions, which are scattered through every island of the West
Indies, that the plants and data as to cultivation are to be

10

disseminated. We inay have wandered somewhat from our point
as to oar own Botanical Gardens, but we must admit that bes:des
the valuable work of investigation which is outside the province
of the ordinary farmer and settler they have been the main
means of the dissemination, throughout the Eastern Province
especially, of nearly all the newer varieties of deciduous and
citrus fruits and also of seeds. Their great utility being of
course that they went into this matter at a, time when the public
would not support private enterprise or when private enterprise
concluded that such was the position. The fact remains that
Horticulture would not have been in the position it is in to-day in
this country, without the assistance of the Botanical Gardens
during its early struggles. Of course to-day private enterprise
has stepped in and has naturally absorbed the lion's share of the
business, but we have much pleasure in placing on record the
fact that good work has been done by these institutions at a time
when nobodv else cared to do it.

PROSPECTS OF BUILDING UP AN AFRICAN FRUIT

TRADE-

Our belief in the possibilities of the Cape for an export trade
in fruit to Europe and America is well known to those interested
in fruit culture and Colonial development. This belief is abso-
lutely fixed ; nothing can shake it. It will take time to justify
it, but if it turns out otherwise than as we state, — with the growers
rests the blame ; of that there can be no doubt, at all events in
our mind.

With a full knowledge of our iinique position (a command of
the markets of the northern hemisphere during February, March
and April), we came to Africa now nine years ago. And the
result of our observation during that period has amply proved to
us, that we have the other necessary elements of success, i.e., that
we can grow good fruit of excellent quality, size, and flavour.
We therefore find an open and empty market in deciduous
fruits of a three months' duration in both Europe and America
awaiting us ; and we on our side know that, on much of our soil,
good fruit can be grown. The Government and private
individuals in places have stepped in, and have amply testified by
thorough and practical experiment tnat certain of our fruits, and
those almost entirely are the sorts desired in the several markets
open to us, can be successfully shipped to England. And there
remain only two points (and on the successful and satisfactory
solution of these two points the ultimate success of the Industry
depends) to be settled : firstly, a fair and reasonable basis of
freight charges with the Steamship Companies ; and, secondly, a
thorough system of distribution on the other side of the water,

11

whether in Europe or America. We have absolutely no doubt
that the former point, when the right time comes, will be
amicably and satisfactorily settled with the several Steamship
Companies, that time being when we can guarantee weekly
consignments of many thousand cases. In regard to the second ;
it is purely a business proposition, and how it is to be arranged
need not vforry us just yet.

During a late visit to Europe we enquired from many
sources in the trade in England as to how they viewed the
prospects of getting fruit from South Africa ; and in each and
every instance the reply was the same. An empty market and
good stuff would be sure to bring good prices, and that the trade
would welcome such stuff as filling a much felt want. We also
had the advantage of having several conversations with Mr. W.
Fox Pickstone, Vice-President of the A Block Fruit Company,,
who manage some of the largest fruit export houses in California^
and whose brand stands easily first in Covent Garden Market,,
in the Anglo-Californian Fruit Trade. He agreed that the
States offered a wide and open market for our fruits in February.
March and April, and provided the stuff was received in good
condition the prices realized must prove very satisfactory.

As regards Australian Competition, we need not fear it*
They are unable to reach Covent G.arden until three weeks to
a month later than we can, and the increased distance and con-
sequently longer period of time in transit round prevent their
competing on equal terms, as regards price of freight and
condition on arrival, the two most important points, as mentioned
above. It may be, in fact probably will be, many years before
we shall offer any spirited resistance against Australia in applesr
as the plantations of this fruit necessary to attain this object have
not yet been set out, but when we have made up our minds
finally as to which districts in the Colony we can grow the best
quality of apples, and use that knowledge with the proper spirit
of enterprise, there is no reason why we should not compete
successfully here also.

All those interested in the welfare of the Colony and its fruit
possibilities in particular will have been pleased to note that the
right spirit of enterprise has taken up the planting of commercial
orchards on sound practical business lines in many parts of the
Colony. Amongst others the Right Hon. Cecil Rhodes, who
is generally credited by both his friends and enemies with seeing
about as far into a brick wall as most people, has considered that
money invested in this direction will be for the ultimate benefit
of the Colony and himself.

We have always considered that pears must be the basis on
which we must build up our Export Trade in fresh fruits, and
this opinion we find is shared in both England and America.

Peaches, apricots, nectarines, plums, and apples (the latter for a
long time to come) will always be accessory to pears.

12

We do not for a moment wish to let intending planters labour
under any delusion as regards the Export trade in fresh fruits,
and here state plainly our opinion. Unless a grower is conveniently
situated near the Railway and within reasonable distance of a
-Colonial Port, he has no chance of competing on fair and even
terms, and had best make up his mind to look to another direction
for his outlet, i.e., to Colonial consumption. It will be difficult
to keep pace with it in apples particularly for many years, there-
fore late keeping apples will undoubtedly pay. In districts where
peaches do well, and some of the,se districts are many miles from
a railway drying varieties of the Yellow -fleshed peaches only
should be planted — melting white-fleshed peaches would prove
unprofitable — in such a locality. Apricots of all the varieties
listed in Colonial Nurserymen's catalogues will make a decent
dried product. In plums the drying varieties, /.?., prunes of
the several sorts, should be planted in districts miles away from
direct railway communicatior, and in pears varieties that dry
well, as Bon Chretien, Beurre Hardy, Louis Bonne, &c., &c.,
and if a district so situated is particularly .suited to pears, late
varieties such as Winter Xelis, Easter Beurre, Glout Morceau, &c.,
•should bring satisfactory returns, as they are very firm, bear
transport well, and are long keepers.

13

DRIED FRUIT.

At present we cannot supply ourselves, and even for some-
years to come, at the present rate of planting of the varieties
for this purpose, our best market will be here.

The demand for fruit dried at Wellington has been excellent,,
and prices realised most satisfactory to all concerned. This is-
mainly in apricots. We have only seen small sample lots of
dried peaches that would be stocked by first-class dealers. We
cannot too strongly impress on planters the importance of
planting drying varieties of Peaches if it is at all probable that the
crop may have to be dried. It means securing almost double the
crop on the same acreage, and makes a nice showy product, with
red centre, in place of the ordinary filthy black-brown production,,
which finds a market, we don't know where, at 2^d. per Ib.

Vieing with the Apricot in importance as a drying fruit, comes
the California Prune (Petit D'Agen). The increase in popularity
of this, from a grower's point of view, has been phenomenal in
California, the output of the State in 1885 being 1,500,000 Ibs. dry,
increasing in 1893 to 57,500,000 Ibs. dry. The consuming public
also fully appreciate its merits on the table, as in 1887, we find
the import of this fruit alone to the United States reached the
enormous figure of 92,000,000 Ibs. For further particulars of thi&
variety, see page.

As for the export of Cape Dried Fruit, we must always
remember that we come into direct competition with the whole
oi the world in the English market. The other markets of Europe
and America, as they are either protected by a heavy duty or
are heavily supplied with home product. In regard to the
English market for dried fruit — it is increasing in value annually
as the prices come down and the consumption is extended — we
have here, conjointly with Australia, the advantage of putting
our crop of fresh into the market on the top of the tail end of the
European one of the year before, which is to a certain extent an
advantage, but there is no doubt that the demand will always in
England be ruled by the price, no matter from whatsoever country
the fruit may come, and we should put this roughly at 6d. per Ib..
in apricots, prunes and pears, in good grades. Personally, we
think we can do good business and make money at this figure, as
we can utilize land which is now lying idle and bringing in
absolutely nothing for raising drying fruit, whereas if we take one
of our competitors in dried fruit on the English market, California
to wit, which has already successfully catered this market, we
know that growers there must pay £20 per acre and upwards
for the land which grows such product. Therefore if growers
only rise to the value of their opportunities we claim that they
will make a verj fair name for themselves, and bring a good deal

14

of money into the country by tackling this branch of the fruit
trade in the right spirit. We may add that there is very little
demand for dried peaches in England.

Our opening statement will, we feel satisfied, be borne out by
our later experience in this branch of the trade. Our best
market will be a home one for years to come. There is no more
portable commodity, and none more palatable, than dried fruit of
good quality, and the fault is ours if it does not take an impor-
tant place in the mining camps, and prospecting kits, throughout
the Northern Territories.

1.5

CANNING.

In our 1899 Catalogue we say " There is still no life in the
canning branch of our Industry. We think however that no
•enterprise has yet been justified in this direction, as only fruit of
the very best quality is suitable for canning, and at present the
value of such fruit is so high in the Colony that canning is really
out of the question.

We have little doubt, however, that when fruit of the necessary
quality is offering in fair quantities, canning plants will be put
in operation to use the same. Planters should know that in
peaches, which are probably the most important branch of this
trade in America, special varieties must be planted. Many of
the varieties of apricots, plums and pears being planted at
present are suitable in every respect for canning."

We have much pleasure in stating that the necessary enterprize
on the part of the canners has now been realized ; all the
principal jam makers in the Colony having either already
thoroughly equipped canning plants, or they are preparing to put
them in without delay. This is as it should be, and we feel certain
that they will be repaid. There is not the demand there ought to
be for canned fruit in the country at present, although many
thousands of cases are imported annually, but we have
no doubt whatever that with a Colonial product put on
the market nicely turned out and of good quality, the demand
will at once increase. We may say that we have sold all our
yellow fleshed peaches, also Japanese plums of a good grade that we
do not care to export, to the canneries ; this season we getting a
•satisfactory price.

Planters must bear in mind that now the canners have done
their share in putting in plants to deal with the product, they
should respond by planting canning varieties, particularly in
peaches, where as we have said before special varieties must be
planted. We cannot too highly recommend for this purpose the
Lemon cling, Muir, Newhall and Elberta. of all the American
varieties under our observation, we find these sorts the most
regular croppers, and that not in one district but spread over a
wide area.

It will we expect be many years before the Colony will take its
canned fruit to England, but in these days, when the mother
•country has been drawing gradually closer to her colonies, we
would be surprised to find in the not very distant future a pre-
ferential tariff in favour of colonial products, especially towards
products of the soil — should this occur, and we think it may,
the Fruit Industry will benefit to an extent that can scarcely be

16

conceived. The amount of canned and dried fruit that is exported!
from the United States alone to England amounts annually to a
sum which would allow to nourish any one of our fair-sized
colonies.

Jam. — The demand for fruit for preserving purposes is excel-
lent and improving. Makers we find are glad to get the new varie-
ties of fruits which are now coming into bearing, at satisfactory
prices to the growers.

17

STOCKS.

As knowledge is acquired and interest in fruit growing iff
aroused and orchards planted, the question of stocks will as in
other countries force itself to the front as one of the most
important questions confronting the planters.

For several years after our establishment here it was a question
(except with the very few) which never appeared to be considered
at all, so long as the tree was a Peach, Pear, Plum or Apple, it
would fill every requirement of the purchaser ; however, we have
lately found considerable interest being taken in this important
question, mainly due we consider to the teachings of the
Government Experts, who have invariably forced this important
question to the front and also through the more intelligent planter
having made enquiry into the reasons why some of his trees are
not growing satisfactorily.

As a Nurseryman we have also tried to impress on Planters the
importance of this (vide catalogues published in 1893, '94, '95),
however until lately practically without result.

Planters must realize that in ordering their trees they should
expressly stipulate for the trees to be on the stock which is best
suited to their soil ; so much depends on this. At the same time
they must bear in mind that there may be technical considerations
which go against what otherwise should be a sound choice of
stock. We refer to the fact that some fruits don't thrive on roots
that they apparently should thrive on.

As we are now frequently asked our opinion re stocks we think
it will assist planters to enter into the matter at some length,
bringing forward the result of a careful study for some years and
showing how from time to time we have narrowed up our list of
stocks.

Apples. There are practically three classes of stocks known to-
trade :

(1) Malus communis (common apple), which should be the
seedlings grown from selected apples as pressed out at
the cider mill or at the dryng sheds.

(2) Paradise (malus paradisica), which is the usual dwarfing

stock used by planters.

(3) Blight proof stocks which are generally of the Northern

Spy or Winter Majetin variety and are resistant against,
the woolly aphis or American, Blight.

The common apple is the stock generally used ; it is healthy and
free growing, without any dwarfing tendency, and makes in every
way a sound healthy tree ; its most dangerous enemy being the
woolly aphis. All varieties do so far as we know, equally well on
this stock.

18

In regard to Paradise stocks there was at one time a considerable
call for them in the trade here ; we ourselves amongst others kept
a large stock, but have now entirely discarded them, as we found it
impossible to keep them free from Blight, and it being moreover
a well-known fact that this insect is particularly partial to the
paradise root. This stock has the effect of bringing the tree
quickly into bearing and tending to increase the size of the fruit ;
it is largely used in England, where trees take so long to come
into bearing. But here we could not plant them under any
consideration whatsoever because their mass of fibrous roots gets
matted with Blight, and the growth does not appear free enough
to prevent the tree being sun burned in our climate, and it is
within our experience very frequently so throughout the entire
length of the country.

With regard to the Blight proof stocks we have naturally taken
considerable interest in the matter for some years, and find both
the Northern Spy and Winter Majetin to be good stocks ; we prefer
the former for all purposes, and all our trees worked on Blight
proof stock are of one or the other of these two sorts. There are
we believe other stocks being used in this country and called
Blight proof ; they may be so, but the Spy has to its credit the
fact that it has made the apple businecs of Australasia ; and here we
have now had it under observation for 8 years, and have put it to
most severe tests without in a single instance finding a trace of
Blight on it. Others may have had a different experience, but
this is ours. However, growers must understand the limitation
of the Spy as a resistant stock. We believe that many think that
if an apple, no matter of what sort, is worked on a Blight proof
stock, that it will always be free from Blight ; this is not so, almost
all varieties of apples are subject more or less to Blight, and even
if worked on these stocks will be in the same proportion subject
to Blight that they were one ommonis, but the stock will, be always
perfectly clean beloiv the point where graft is inserted, and this is
a consideration the importance of which cannot be over estimated.
Blight above ground can be eradicated, and if not entirely so at
least kept thoroughly in hand, whereas once in the root always in
the root is a safe prediction.

We have heard people in this country try and belittle the value
of Blight-proof stocks by explaining to planters that their trees
will get Blight just the same, but I trust that no one will allow
themselves to be deceived in this matter.

We consider that in planting out an orchard in a new clean
district ordinary common stock to be in every way satisfactory
provided it is sold clean and is found to be so on receival by
planter who should examine the tree carefully, as the Blight will
always go into the head of the tree first and should be detected
before reaching the roots ; in fact, we know thousands of apple
"trees planted in different places within the last 6 years that are
still quite clean, but it needs care and a vigilant eye to detect
aphis on its arrival in the orchard generally.

19

Pears are worked on one of two stocks, either common pear for
standards, or quince for dwarfs. The result of our experience has
also here been that we have discarded dwarfs, that is to say pears
grown on quince, our reason being that the advocates of the quince
stock for pear claim that whereas a pear on pear stock will take
six or seven years to come into bearing, a pear on quince will only
take three or four ; our experience of this stock does not bear out
this result ; we will, mention an instance and could mention
several of this. Sir' James Sivewright has at Lourensford, an
orchard of probably 1,000 pears of different varieties on quince ;
these have stood five years and have not yet borne, and are not
carrying any fruit this season, whereas we could show orchards
of the same age on pear that are bearing a paying crop of fruit.

We strongly advise planters to leave the pear on quince
well alone, unless they have seen much better results than we
have. If you are a commercial planter don't be led to plant on
this stock without having your mind set at rest by facts in your
immediate neighbourhood on similar soil.

Peaches. — We can with confidence say that so far as South
Africa is concerned, peach stock for peaches is the only stock
worth planting ; we say this not dogmatically, but after wide
experiments with other stocks.

It is of course well known to those who study fruit tree plant-
ing that peaches will not thrive on wet, badly drained spots ; our
soils, speaking generally, here are patchy and in an orchard of a
few acres spots low lying and wet are often found ; we recognizing
this have made thorough experiments in the use of the myrobo-
lan and St. Julian Stock for peaches, these latter stocks being
more suited to such soils, but we have met with no success what-
ever, and we have spent considerable time and money with the
object of trying to overcome the matter, and as we say have failed.
So far as it can be determined the main reason is that in this
country peaches will not thrive on plum stock, they will always
prove unsatisfactory from every point of view.

In America the Almond stock is used to a fair extent on very
dry soils for carrying the peach ; we have also tried this and find
the result unsatisfactory. Therefore we would say to intending
planters if you have not got a site for your orchard which can be
thoroughly drained or which is not naturally of that character,
don't plant peaches.

Apricots. — Our experience here is that again the peach root is
the reliable root. Years ago we discarded the apricot root, as the
growth we found under different conditions was so unsatisfactory.
However, in heavy ' soil the inyrobolan root is safe to use, all the
varieties of apricots we have tried doing thoroughly well on this
root in heavy moist soil.

Plums. — The relative value of the peach and the myrobolan as
a stock for both domestic and Japanese plums and also prunes has
been a much debated question now for the last two years. We
simply repeat our experience with deductions.

20

Of the domestic plums very few do w^ll worked direct on to
peach root. Most of the well-known varieties make so imperfect
a junction that we have had to stop attempting any result.
Almost all of them do well on myrobolan as far as making
a junction is concerned, but except on soil which is adapted for
the myrobolan, that is to say, a stiff heavy soil the growth, of the
tree is not satisfactory ; in most instances therefore in dealing with
the domestic plums on myrobolan we have a perfect junction
(which we do not get in the case of the peach root), but a not
altogether satisfactory later result (except on the stiff soil, where
it is most excellent and satisfactory). "We have now made up our
minds to carry out a system of double working the domestic plums ;
wo have been experimenting on these lines for two years and
hope soon to be able to overcome the entire difficulty, and put a
domestic plum into the hands of planters which will really give
satisfaction ; we may say that other countries have had the same
difficulties and are overcoming them in this way. We, however,
cannot, we find, literally adopt the result of experiments in other
countries, as there is in many instances a very different behaviour
here.

Prunes do well on either stock ; it depends entirely on your soil,
what root you should have them worked on. The peach is the best
all-round stock, but on some soils plum stock is much more
satisfactory and even necessary. It would not be out of place
here to mention one circumstance wThich came under our own eye
in California, and show the characteristics of the respective stocks
better than pages of argument. We knew a nurseryman that
budded in 1891 120,000 French prunes, 105,000 were on
strong healthy peach stocks, 15,000 were on myrobolan. The
soil was alluvial, fairly heavy, the winter when these stocks were
carrying dormant buds was a severe one, resulting in floods for
several days : for two or three of which the nurseries were
underwater from the overflow of the river — the effect was that in the
middle of the growing season (that is 15th June) in California, the
date we visited the nurseries out of 105,000 prunes on peach 1,500
scattered trees only were alive and growing freely, and out of
15,000 on myrobolan all stood 4 ft. high and not a bud lost. As
Japanese plums do equally well on either root on any peach soil
take them if possible on peach root and vice versa.

The Almond root, which we have also tested, we do not care
about for any sort of plum or prune ; it does not as a stock in this
country fulfil our expectation, based on the place it' held in the
estimation of growers in certain soils in California.

21

REMEDY AFTER GETTING WRONG SORTS PLANTED
OR VARIETIES PLANTED ON WRONG ROOTS-

We have elsewhere (under the heading " What to Do with Old
Orchards "-), explained the great importance of getting new varieties
into bearing age in the shortest possible time to test the value of
the variety in the district. Let us suppose that a certain planter
has set 1,000 trees in say ten different varieties in apple, pears and
peaches, and finds out when they have been three or four years
growing that several hundred trees are of varieties, quite un-
suited to the district in which he intends growing ; there
is no occasion to be despondent and feel sorry that he ever started
fruit growing ; these mistakes are the rule rather than the excep-
tion, and do not cause serious loss if tackled in the right manner
and in the proper spirit. We have ourselves already on our own
property re-worked over 1,500 of such trees, out of a total of
about 10.000. We know that some people faced with this problem
think there is only one way of rectifying things, by digging out
all the trees of the varieties doing badly, this is a very great
mistake and entirely unnecessary, provided that the trees are
growing healthily and that the stems are sound ; if these condi-
tions are there the variety must be changed over to one of the
other sorts that have been proved to do well, and there are two
ways of doing this, either by budding the tree over in the summer
or fall, the best time being when well-ripened buds of the required
variety are procurable and by grafting in spring.

Personally we prefer the former methods and find it very suc-
cessful in this country for trees with limbs not above two inches
in diameter. The buds must be inserted at the several places on
the different limbs of the tree that the grafter thinks will make
the best shaped head ; it is a matter of judgment, only it is
advisable to insert more buds than are required ; in fact, with an
unskilled worker, we would suggest inserting twice as many buds
as will be required. We always consider the main point in working
over a tree is to keep the centre well open at time of working,
keep the buds or grafts well away from the centre of the head.
As a rule in budding over orchard trees the strings around the buds
are cut too soon, there is very little danger of leaving them too
long, as we will generally find the time of budding has to be
carefully arranged as soon as possible after the buds of the
required variety are ripe to enable the budder to find enough sap
in the trees to be re-worked to make a perfect union.

The other manner of working over is by grafting, using the
same judgment in the matter of which limbs are retained for the
purpose. There are several ways of grafting : should the branches
be thin enough, that is under J inch, we infinitely prefer the whip

22

graft, if thicker the ordinary cleft graft is generally used and
gives good results. It will be found that should the buds or grafts,
as the case may be, take well ; that they will throw out a heavy
growth of wood ; this growth must be kept well headed back from
the time it is, say, 9 inches long, as ehould it not be carefully
watched the first heavy wind will remove entire branches of the
new head. At the end of the growing season there should be a
well-formed and strong head to the tree, and after another season's
growth such trees should have caught up to the remainder of the
orchard. If the job is well done in trees up to five years of age
no time is lost except in the matter of peaches, where a year is
lost. Please well understand what we mean by no time being
lost, we mean that the planter of the orchard will get a crop from
the worked over trees as soon as from the rest of his orchard.
In older trees of course more time will be lost, but seldom more
than two years. So it can be seen the importance of utilizing the
unsatisfactory bearers instead of grubbing them out.

There is another class of tree which comes under this head ; this
is where the root is totally unadapted for the soil ; it is a simple
matter to tell this at a glance, as the tree from the time of planting
has an unhappy and uncomfortable appearance in this case. When
the planter has made up his mind that a mistake • really has been
made, the only thing to do is to dig them out and throw the trees
away at once, and replant the holes with another sort which is
growing satisfactorily.

ORCHARD IRRIGATION.

The use and abuse of water is one of the chief facters in
orcharding in South Africa. We get so many inquiries on this point
that we think it may interest planters to have our views at some
length. No hard or fast rule about irrigation of fruit trees can be
laid down, the only circumstances under which euch a rule would
be sound policy, would be if one had an orchard of the whole of
which is the same character of soil and the annual rainfall and
temperature exactly alike, year in year out This favoured spot
we have not yet located ; when found it can be irrigated alike
each year. The African grower is faced with a different problem
not only in each district, but often in the same orchard, therefore
we think a few remarks as to sound principles of irrigation will
be useful.

A tree needs enough water to keep itself in a thoroughly healthy
state and to ripen its fruit ; if it does not receive this it suffers,
and if the tree suffers the fruit either falls or is imperfect of its
kind, and in either instance there is no money in it.

There are undoubtedly many places in the Eastern and
Western Province where fruit can be grown without irrigation.

23

The main points to be taken into consideration are the depth of
the soil, the character of the soil, the style of the sub-soil and the
position of the orchard.

T )o much water is always more serious than too little, it chills
the soil, tends to render it infertile, washes out the fertilizer,
bringing the alkaline salts (if any) near the surface by evapora-
tion until in time it renders the soil worthless, it also tends to
exclude the air from the soil which is as necessary to the roots as
the moisture.

On the other hand, as we have said befoie, if there is not
enough water in the soil the tree fails to grow healthily and
drops its fruit, or ripens miserable, undersized stuff if any.

There are some growers in this country who preach the gospel
of no water, there are others who irrigate copiously as we say,
both these advocates may be right or may be wrong because a
certain system suits one farm, do not for a moment imagine
that it will suit the next.

Speaking generally, we would say that with favourable condi-
tions and depth of soil a tree should grow without irrigation,
provided there is a rainfall of 20 in. to 30 in., but to take the
opposite extreme we have seen stretches of land in this country
carrying beautiful orchards without any artificial irrigation and in
districts where the rainfall is under 10 inches.

Should the leading of water have to be resorted to, we
infinitely prefer the furrow system, draw with a plough,
or otherwise one or two furrows along each side of the
entire length of trees which must receive water, the distance from
the rows of trees that the nearest furrow must be drawn will
depend entirely on the size of the tree, a four year old tree we
would say roughly at three feet if of course the tree be small, one
furrow on each side is sufficient ; when the water is turned into
the furrow we prefer to let in a strong head if available, and when
the end of the roots is reached turn the majority of the water into
the next furrows, leaving just enough in to allow the water to
reach the far end, and if the soil is deep we like to see the water
running so through each furrow for twenty-four hours, for twelve
hours at the very least, we are very keen on this point. The
majority of irrigated orchards, especially Citrus orchards, are
irrigated on a system which is as detrimental to the tree as can
well be ; the water is led in furrows until clcse to each tree, then
turned out of the furrows and allowed to spread over the ground ;
when the ground is well covered in say five to ten minutes the
next tree is tackled in like manner. We state that this style of
irrigation is as bad as it can be, and by no means as economical as
its advocate (and it has many) will have one believe. In the
ordinary soil such an irrigation will not penetrate the soil more
than two feet, and often not more than twelve inches ; we do not
say that the soil is dry below this depth, because those who
practise this system begin soon after the rains are over and keep

24

it up weekly until other rains come, thus preventing the drying
out of the sub-soil, but under this system the deeper one
penetrates the soil the dryer one finds it instead of the reverse
being the case. The result of this system is that the roots are
encouraged to strike up and remain near the surface where they
recognize that they receive the most water, instead of striking
down deep, in search of the sub-moisture which in most soils is to
be found at some depth below the surface. Any fool can
recognize that if the roots are near the surface irrigation is
needed much more frequently, and if they strike deep and when
water is applied it gets down to them it evaporates much more
slowly, so that we claim as a practical result of the system of
irrigation that we advocate that if carried out correctly one
irrigation only every four weeks will be found necessary in place
of a weekly one, and instead of a man being always present to
look after the water, somebody to go once in a while to see that it
has not taken a mole hole instead of tne furrow is all that is
required.

We again state most emphatically that too much water is
being used in many orchards throughout the country, this
being the cause of thousands of sickly and unhealthy trees,
especially those Citrus trees having an unhealthy yellow
appearance. Another reason which tends to make the manner of
our usual irrigation still more fatal is the almost entire absence of
drainage in orchards. We have seen many pieces of orchards that
were being regularly irrigated that needed not water, but
the water at present contained in the soil effectively carried off by
a system of drainage ; in fact, there being already water in the soil
in excess, and even the trees suffering from it. We are practical
enough to recognize that it is often for one reason or other
impossible to irrigate on the lines we suggest, and we are not
dogmatic enough to say that a fine orchard cannot be grown with-
out following out the system which we prefer, but we simply
wish to point out to growers and planters the danger of over-
irrigation and also point out the advantage of getting the
irrigation water deep down.

The ideal irrigation would be sub-irrigation, where the water is
led in underground drains and where no water is seen on the
surface at all. We have seen often orchards growing in a soil
which is naturally moist and which has a natural system of sub-
irrigation and drainage ; it is in such sites trees do so well and
thrive with less than 10 inches of rain. Finally we must impress
on planters the absolute importance of moving the surface soil
with either plough, cultivator, spade or hoe after each irrigation ;
this is just as important as the giving of water itself ; everybody
knows how if it is not done the soil after receiving water opens up
with deep cracks, through which all the water brought on to the
soil is soon evaporated away from the lower depths of the soil.

25

Leonard Coates, one of the best known California orchardists and
looked upon as an authority, writes as follows on orchard
irrigation :

" It would be a difficult task for one man to undertake to in-
struct the irrigation and cultivation for as large an area of land as
Colorado, as there are so many different conditions. In order to
do justice in the way of irrigation and cultivation of an orchard, a
man should first study the character, depth and the underlying
conditions, as well as the surface, together with the fall and
natural drainage of the land. If fruit growers had realized the
danger of over-irrigation while growing their orchards they could
have saved to this country in fruit and fruit wood thousands of
dollars. In my opinion the severe losses of fruit and fruit wood
during the hard winters were in great measure due to over-irriga-
tion and lack of cultivation. While we might have had some
losses from the cold winters, had we not applied the water so
freely and put in more of our time in cultivation, we would have
grown our trees plenty large and healthy enough to withstand the
cold winters much better than they did. But, being inexperienced
and having abundance of water at command, it was only natural
for us to do just as we did and that was to over-irrigate. Now
the question might be asked — why were my trees damaged and
my neighbour's not when he irrigated fully as heavy as I did ?
This should be easily answered. As the line of a fence oftentimes
.separates the character of soil, lay of land and natural drainage,
the first thing to do upon entering into the fruit business is to
•study well the character, depth and lay of the land, and then
irrigate and cultivate accordingly. As to time to irrigate, no one
•can lay down a rule, except to say irrigate when the trees and
fruits require it. Trees require very little water after the soil is
once saturated, if proper cultivation follows. In my experience,
after the damage of two hard winters, I carried my orchard though
the succeeding summers entirely by cultivation, and the trees made
.all the necessary growth. I shall not undertake to do without
irrigation this season, however, as the water from over-irrigating
during previous years has had time to evaporate and soak through
the deep soil. From this test I am convinced that less water and
thorough cultivation is more beneficial to tree and fruit than too
much irrigation and little cultivation. Orchards on the western slope
should be irrigated every season, but judgment should be used as
to the number of irrigations and the length of time the water is
allowed to remain on the land. Some soils are porous and have
good drainage. Such soil is in no great danger of being over-
irrigated, but land with a very deep soil, such as we have in Grand
Valley, and lying very flat, should be irrigated with great care and
•should be well cultivated in order to feed the surface roots from
the moisture below. Water should be kept off the latter part of
^the season in order to allow the wood to ripen well before winter,
unless the trees should be heavily laden with fruit, when it will
require some additional water to fully develop the crop. Fall

26

irrigation, after the wood has ripened, is very good, as it had the
entire winter to soak away and leave the soil in fine condition for
the trees to put forth the necessary growth early the next season.
My practice of preparing land for irrigation is to plough a deep
furrow for the water. I favour this plan in order to prevent
flooding the land. I want to keep my surface as dry as possible,
in order that I may get on to the land more quickly with horses
to cultivate it, as this is the method by which we retain the
moisture in the ground. If the furrows are allowed to remain
uncultivated any length of time, they will crack open, then I
think irrigation will have done more harm than good. This has-
been one of the reasons that we over-irrigated in years past. We
irrigated through furrows, and in cultivating did not entirely fill
them. In a few days they would crack open, and the hot sun and
wind would soon dry out the surface, so that we would be com-
pelled to apply the water soon again, therefore getting our land
soggy and sour by too much water. Irrigate sparingly. Keep
the water from the surface and feed the surface roots by cultiva-
tion from moisture below. This might be called sub-irrigation.
This rule holds good for general agriculture, as throrough cultiva-
tion is beneficial to all plant life. If fresh air is beneficial to
human life, so it also is to plant life, and this pure air cannot be
injected into the soil, if flooding is practised. I am satisfied after-
several years of experience tn Colorado that surface cultivation is
one of the cheapest and most effective methods of checking
excessive evaporation. This fact does not appear to be well under-
stood in thia State, and many of our irrigatiors have an important
lesson yet to learn in this regard. Irrigating water can never take
the place of cultivation. As we all well know, the custom of
many irrigators is to apply large quantities of water to growing
crops, and the water makes a paste of the top soil. In less than
thirty-six hours the moisture in this top layer may be evaporated,
leaving it hard and baked. Under such conditions it is astonish-
ing how rapidly the soil moisture is converted into vapour. It is as
if millions of tiny tubes extended through this top crust to suck
up the moisture contained in both the soil and subsoil. If this
process is long continued, there will be found little moisture
within a foot of the surface.

In the general system of orchard cultivation in California, two
evils are to be guarded against, too early ploughing of the land,,
before there is sufficient growth of weeds, or early cultivation to
keep down weeds, and a system of irrigating which keeps the
land soggy at one time and with a hard crust on the surface at
another.

Late, second ploughing is also to be discountenanced, one good
ploughing in early spring, followed by the disc or the tooth-harrow,,
being better suited to aid conservation of moisture, as well as the
constant adding to the land of humus and nitrogen."

27

MANURING ORCHARDS.

We are only going to deal in a few words with this important
matter, recognising the fact that almost always and everywhere
throughout the country trees planted will need manure ; we will
simply say that we are very much against such manure being-
applied at the time of planting the trees — our general principle
being that we prefer to plant with no manure to enable us to
form an opinion as to what the soil will do unaided, as should
manure be applied at planting one can never form any opinion
should the growth be satisfactory as to how much is due to the
application of the manure, and as to how much natural fertility
there may be already in the soil ; one is therefore a bit fogged in
the intelligent application of the manure in future years. There
are just one or two considerations as regards the time of applica-
tion. It is recognised of course by any novice that manure of
whatever kind is of no value to a plant unless it is brought into
solution by aid of water, either through the medium of rains, or
by it being led in, therefore should your orchard be one where
the trees are grown without irrigation, the manure must be
applied during t.he rainy season, if it is a very soluble manure,
as guano, sulphate of potash, nitrate of soda, &c., a few inches of
rain upon it will bring about the desired effect. If it is not so-
soluble as Thomas Phosphate, bone meal of coarse grade, &c., it
will require more water when it is necessary to get early results,
therefore we would say, use your judgment as to the date of
application of the manure, according to the particular stuff you
wish to apply.

Speaking as to the sort of manure we can only lay down as a
sound principle that if one wants to force growth, nitrogenous
and potash manures will do it, and if one wishes to force fruit,
potash manure and phosphatic manures should be used, and
nitrogenous manures carefully avoided.

In applying don't give it to the stem of the tree, manures-
can be absorbed by the tree only when entering through the fine
feeding roots, the thick roots at the base of a tree do not assist to*
feed it, they are unable to take in either suNtenance or moisture.

28
ORCHARD CULTIVATION.

It is thoroughly recognized nowadays that without cultivation
and thorough and continuous cultivation successful orcharding is
out of the question. The effects of cultivation are as follows :
The aeration of the soil ; (2) the conservation of moisture ; (3)
the destruction of weeds.

Each of these grounds for cultivation has a vital effect on the
crop, the aeration of the soil is as important as moisture. Soil
which is allowed to remain hard arid compact gets positively dead.
We have seen many instances where old roads in certain classes of
soils have been ploughed up and which would grow nothing for
two or three years, in fact until life was again put in the soil from
thorough aeration.

The conservation of moisture is effected by continual cultiva-
tion in this manner, it is a well recognized fact by all agricull urists
that moisture received into the soil either by artificial application
or by natural means for a certain depth down, rises up again by
the capillary attraction of the S"n's rays acting on it. The process
is a continual one of pumping going on from below, through the
cells iii the soil, which readjust themselves after each moving of
the surface soil for this purpose, therefore if the cultivator is kept
going during the dry season, the capillary cells are being conti-
nually broken and it takes some little time for them to readjust
themselves, and allow the under moisture to be drawn up through
them, in this way the moisture is locked up in the ground, and the
only manner of its escaping is through being drawn up by the
roots of any tree or plant, and being evaporated off through the
leaves.

It is for this reason we mention the third advantage of cultiva-
tion, to wit, the destruction of weeds, as every weed growing is
drawing up moisture from below and giving it off into the atmos-
phere. You yourself can readily see this almost any time in your
orchard, especially in Citrus trees which have been badly irri-
gated. Take a very hot day, and at midday you will see the leaves
drooping and looking as if the tree needed water, whereas early
next morning you will find the same tree which in the meantime
has not had a drop of water looking perfectly fresh. Why ! simply
because the hotter the sun the more rapid the evaporation going
on through the leaves. On a very hot day unless there is perhaps
an excess of moisture in the soil, the evaporation will be going on
at a quicker rate than the roots can take it out of the soil, hence
the drooping of foliage, whereas in the cool of the evening
evaporation slows off, and by next morning nature has balanced
itself, resulting in a healthy normal condition of the foliage.

We have heard many people say that grass and weeds conserve
moisture in soil, and insist on its being so. They state truly
that if you take a very weedy piece of land, and on a hot day pull

29

out the weeds you will find the surface nice and moist. Quite right,
it is just as stated, but the presence of the growing weeds acts as a
mulch for tJie immediate surface, but at the same time if you test
the amount of moisture contained in a square foot of soil at,
say 12 inches below the surface after a month's absence of rain
the most sceptical will be satisfied. fe^^l'--i2AOj

The evaporation going on every day through the leaves of a
ten year old fruit tree is something enormous, showing how
foolish it is to state that trees will grow without water unless it
has been proved by the orchardist having actually done it by
employing the system of thorough cultivation in the dry weather,
or by recognising the presence of conditions such as are described
herein under the head of " Orchard Irrigation."

In the parts of Africa where a winter rainfall is received, we
consider that a ploughing when there is an opportunity during
the rain, and another cross ploughing towards the latter end of
the rainy season is enough, this to be followed by the necessary
harrowing and bi-fortnightly cultivation up to the end of
December ; we do not consider continued cultivation necessary
after this date unless in the case of late fruit. In the parts of the
country where a summer fall is received, we would say reverse
the order of things. You cannot of course, as any practical farmer
knows, get on your land a plough or work it in any way when it
is in a wet condition, nothing will sooner tend to make it infertile,
but when you can get on to it get the weeds under, and after the
ruins are over keep the cultivator going, as it is quite necessary for
growers who have summer rain to retain enough moisture in the
soil to give the tree the necessary start the following spring, and
hold it healthy until the advent of the early summer rain.

ORCHARD IMPROVEMENT.
(By LEONARD COATES, of California.)

" The soil in which most trees have been planted is good, and
often very rich, and to this, with the sunny climate, may be
attributed the fact that many orchards look as well as they do,"
rather than to any great care or skill on the part of the orchardist.
So observes Leonard Coates in the " San Jose Mercury," and he
continues : Given a stronger tree and a healthier root, the bud
taken from the most perfect specimen, and the result would have
been comparatively better.

Continuing this same idea we are brought to a study of the
influence of stock on scion, or scion on stock. That there is an
influence, and a marked one, is conceded by all authorities.

30

Indeed, any observing orchardist may see the evidence in his own
•orchard and all nurserymen are still more familiar with the de-
tails.

For instance, we may have the best stocks, and yet the budded or
grafted tree on these same roots will vary much as to growth and
vigour. The Japanese variety of plums will make an immense
growth on either plum or peach root, while the Bradshaw, Yellow
Egg, etc., grow feebly in comparison. A vigorous top growth
always indicates a correspondingly strong root growth, and any-
one at all unfamiliar with these things would be amazed at seeing
the root of a Burbank and of a Bradshaw plum tree, though prior
to the budding or grafting process, both stocks or roots were
exactly the same.

Without illustrating further, for these are horticultural facts, the
question naturally arises, how to best apply this knowledge for
practical purposes. There are two ways : One is for the nursery-
man to supply trees grown on the best roots, budded from selected
trees, and where the variety is known to be of feeble habit, to
double work. As an example of " double working," Dr. A.
Sharpies, of Goshen, Oregon, believes the Tennant prune to be the
best plum stock for that State, particularly as to cold resistance.
He has found that the Tennant every where was uninjured during
very severe freezes which destroyed many trees of other varieties.
Those who have planted Tennant trees in California must have
noticed their exceptional vigour and hardiness as compared with
other trees, and this variety on peach root from seedling peaches,
top-worked with any feeble growing varieties of the plum family
would in all probability result in a tree of great vitality and
productiveness.

The second way is for the orchardist to plant his orchard with
whatever varieties are the best growers, let them be Tennant
prune, Kieffer pear, Spy apple, or anything else — and top-graft
them himself in a few years, or in blocks, as he wants them.

'There is an additional advantage in this as the orchardist would
have more time to decide as to what varieties were best, and the

: stocks would be planted and growing, so there would be little
loss of time.

The Robe de Sergent prune in California is not altogether satis-
factory, being an uncertain cropper, and it is also complained that
the tree is tender. In the writer's orchard were a few trees of
Italian prune on peach root ; these were grafted with Robe de
Sergent scions, and the result shows trees much larger and
: stronger than those on Myrobolan root, and not double worked,
and what is even more valuable, they have borne regular crops.
This variety will not unite with the peach, but from the above
experience it would seem that it needs a peach root, but must
have an intermediate plum stock of strong habit.

31

There are several fruit growers in other States who believe in
and practise this plant breeding. Professor L. H. Bailey is
planting Spy as the foundation for his apple orchard. S. A.
Heiges uses Ben Davis for the same purpose, top -grafting on to it
all weaker varieties. Professor Van Deman recommends the same
practice, and has planted orchards in Kansas the same way. S. D.
Willard, in New York State, one of the largest plum growers in
the country, plants Lombard entirely as a stock, and top-grafts all
varieties on to it. George T. Powell uses Kieffer as a stock for
pears, and by this method Bosc, and excellent pear, but one which
is never recommended because of its poor straggling growth, may
become well known ; and so on with many varieties of all classes
•of fruits which are poor growers.

There are certain varieties which never make good trees, and no
;amount of care or manuring will remedy the defect ; the only
remedy is double working — give them a good foundation. There
are other varieties that are said to be more or less self-sterile, and
which need to be planted in the near proximity to other varieties.
•Give these more vigour and strength and the chances are they will
also become better bearers."

32

WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR OLD ORCHARDS.

It is certainly an important matter for tho&e who are going in*
for orcharding to consider what is best to be done with the old
orchards which are standing most probably on the farm. A
number of planters consider that the best way of settling the
question is to dig them out at once — generally their reason being
that they are in a filthy state, and composed of varieties of no-
market value and a nest for all sorts of pests. We must say as
the result of our experience this is not our opinion. An old
orchard on a farm is valuable in many ways.

Firstly : The trees can be cut about and can be used as a
practice ground for the orchardist, who if he is a South African
has many new ideas from abroad to put into practice and
experiment with and satisfy himself upon, and if he came in
from abroad with knowledge he will find such trees of great
value for testing how far his former practice can be carried out in
this country.

2nd. Because if such trees are of worthless varieties-
they can be readily top-grafted to sorts which have been
proved to thrive and pay well, and more than this, and most
valuable of all uses to which they can be put, the
orchardist can top-graft on to them any varieties which he may
have planted, or which he thinks will be a pa11 able proposition to
plant in his part of the country, and he can bring such scion into
fruit in two or three years, thus testing the value of a variety in
the least possible time and perhaps avoiding the risk of planting
out hundreds of young trees of wrong varieties, and if he should
have planted them out he can prove to his satisfaction that they
are unsuitable and can get the young orchard grafted or budded
over without loss of time.

The writer cannot too strongly emphasize the value of such
experimenting, in fact of such great importance do we consider
the earliest proof of the value of varieties in different districts
in a country like this, that exhibits an entire absence of data,
that we consider that if feasible it should be a matter for
Government consideration and aid.

To put it clearly, that the Government should with permission
take possession of old worthless orchards scattered through the
country, have them worked over by top grafting by experts to-
such varieties as it is considered would be of commercial value
to such district, such experts to have a thorough knowledge of
the bringing into early bearing of top grafted trees. One man
could supervise a great number of these small orchards scattered
up several hundred miles of railway, and the result would be
farmers could select their varieties to be planted from the success
or failure of the tests. We have ourselves, we consider, saved

33

thousands of pounds to our customers and to the interests under
our charge by making such experiments covering nine years. We
have ourselves got thousands of trees which were of worthless
varieties, the majority of them old orchards, which have been
worked over by top grafting, and which we feel certain now will
pay us handsomely.

3rd. Because he will be able to use such trees for testing the
different washes which an orchardist finds necessary, he will then
be in a position before his younger trees come into bearing to
know the most suitable spray to use and also to get a fair know-
ledge of to what extent he can prune to secure a crop.

BASIS ON WHICH FARMERS CAN DECIDE WHETHER
TO ADD FRUIT GROWING TO THEIR OTHER
SOURCES OF INCOME.

We are repeatedly asked for advice in all sorts of out-of-the-
way places as to whether a man should plant fruit trees.

We try here to give a lot of general information about grow-
ing prospects, outlets for product and particulars of varieties,
which if carefully read should assist the individual to form an
opinion. Then the principle we imply is as follows, it rests of
course with each intending planter to decide whether it is a sound
one in his case.

It is not in our mind a question as to whether we can grow
good fruit, but the question to put is ivhether off a certain piece of
land one can make more money by planting fruit trees of sorts
than by the present style of utilizing it. In hundreds of instances
within our personal knowledge, and there must be thousands out-
side of this, the answer must be in the affirmative as regards
planting fruit trees, as land suitable is lying idle, bringing in not
even a sovereign a morgen, and perhaps the household is even
without fruit for its own consumption, and fruit trees at £5 per
100.

THE INITIAL DIFFICULTIES OF ESTABLISHING
ORCHARDS IN SOUTH AFRICA-

The South- Western District of the Cape Colony, covered by
an annual winter rainfall, is probably the easiest country in the
world in which to establish a young orchard ; during our nine
years' residence we have positively seen no difficulties to en-
counter worth mentioning ; we shall therefore let it pass. But
it must be remembered that throughout the greater part of South

34

Africa we have summer rains, and the ground at the planting
season, i.e., during spring, is often dry and hard, and that should
the trees be planted under such conditions without the neces-
sary attention, they would probably die. During our trips
to the East much was heard on this score, and we have thought
over the matter, and what should be done if placed under
the same conditions. The advice we give to our Eastern
friends, and also their fellows in difficulty, which is offered with
all due deference, would be as follows : — Have your land
prepared during your rainy season by a thorough deep ploughing
and sub-soiling if possible (in fact, if one is going in for orchard-
ing in the East on the deep, rich, rolling lands so abundant there,
a subsoil plough might most certainly be obtained), followed by a
good harrowing, and later, several stirrings of the soil by the
running through of a cultivator.

\Vhen the following dormant season for fruit trees comes
round, the only proper season, by-the-bye, to remove deciduous
trees, get your trees, and have them planted at once, presuming,
of course, your soil is in condition for planting. When the soil
has been carefully packed around the roots, and the hole has been
refilled within nine inches of the surface level, empty a couple or
more buckets of water into that hole, and when all the water has
sunk out of sight, and not till then, have the hole filled up with
the remainder of the perfectly dry soil, which has previously been
taken out. Every tree should be similarly treated.

We would suggest, to facilitate watering, that a low sledge on
two runners be made, on which could be stood one or two barrels
of water, and which could be pulled through the tree rows, by a
horse, ox, or mule. The expense would be almost nothing in a
10 to 50 acre orchard, if systematically carried out, and each
watering would, we feel satisfied, keep the tree in a thoroughly
moist condition for ten or fourteen days. The secret of success
would be, of course, the removing of the surface soil at each su<-lt
irrigation and its replacement in a perfectly dry condition, this
acting as a thorough mulch.

We are satisfied such treatment would result in finding the
tree at the advent of the first rains in a healthy growing state and
ready to simply jump ahead in the warm, moist atmosphere
which accompanies them.

We visited the district of Albany on behalf of the Government
in June, 1895, and the country was suffering from a so-called
drought. This drought was simply the dry season of the year,
when the whole face of the country is dried up and vegetation
withered. We have an exactly similar season in California,
when in a square mile of veld not a blade of green grass or a
green weed is to be found ; but there we call it the dry season,
and as far as orcharding is concerned its ill effects can be
circumvented in California by cultivation, i.e., constant tilling of
the soil, and we are certain the same treatment here will give the
same good result. We remember testing certain hillside

35

-which had been lying fallow on Mr. Stirk's farm, and it was in
;a beautifully moist condition, and would have carried an orchard
most assuredly.

Perhaps it would not be out of place to give our Eastern friends
some ideas of the difficulties to be encountered almost annually
on some lands of the celebrated St. Clara Valley, in California,
which \ve may here state last year shipped 29,000,000 Ibs. of fresh
fruit, 17,000,000 Ibs. canned fruit, and 42,000,000 Ibs. dried fruit.

We speak with some little authority as an erstwhile contractor
for this class of work. Let us take one job out of several which
came under our own eyes during our last season ; a 5-acre block,
the contract price to dig the hole and plant the tree was 6d. per
tree ; long price you will say, but nevertheless money was lost on
the job.

The soil, a rich, black, stiff, clayey loam, that is there called
•" adobe," was so hard that we could not get into it even with
picks, so the only course open to us was to dig the holes G inches
deep, then fill them with water from a barrel, wait until the
water had sunk and softened a few more inches, and so on, ad
nauseam, until the required depth had been arrived at. The
trees were planted with a couple of buckets of water added, and
'they grew. One is altogether too much inclined to imagine that
fruit-growers in other countries, who have made a success of it,
have had no difficulties to encounter, but we think this will
generally be found to be not so. In fact, it is safe to say, that
the greater the difficulties to be surmounted, the greater the
success, as the initial energy displayed is only a foreshadowing
of what will be displayed in the future.

THE GENERAL TREATMENT AT PLANTING AND
DURING FIRST SEASON'S GROWTH OF A YOUNG
ORCHARD.

If possible, one should have had the land prepared the year
^previously, and lying, in summer, fallow. This should be more
important in districts which get their rainfall during a period
when a deciduous tree is in an active state of growth. We will
presume the ground is in a thoroughly clean and well-pulverised
.state, or as nearly so as the frequent ploughing, cultivating, and
breaking of clods would allow. On arrival of the bales, or
boxes, as the case may be, they must be opened at once, even if
it were the morning, and one intended beginning planting the
same afternoon, one should have them all layed in by the roots,
in a trench, which should be dug on, or near the ground to be
planted ; if the soil were dry, this laying-in should bo done where
one is able to allow water to be turned into the trench. In doing
ihis work, take care that all the roots are well covered with the

36

soil. Should the varieties be bundled up, all strings must be*
cut and the bundles opened, prior to covering the roots with
soil, taking care that different sorts are carefully marked out, so-
that the varieties do not get mixed at this early date. At the
unpacking the trees should be counted and the nurseryman's-
invoice checked, and then is the time to lay complaints, should
there be any.

We will presume that on arrival of the trees the ground is not
yet staked out, nor the holes dug ; the staking out is of course
the first work. The distance generally recommended for
standard trees is from 18 feet to 22 feet apart. Dwarfs, 6 feet to 8-
feet apart. The tools required are a square, which can be made of
flooring board, sawn down in middle, each side 10 feet long. A
setting-board, which can also be of the same material, 5 feet long,
and is made as follows : find, and mark the centre of the board,,
and also mark exactly 2 feet on either side of this centre, then saw
out 3 triangular notches on these marks or lines, each notch let
one inch into the board. And a copper wire 210 feet long (this,,
by-the-bye, should be kept rolled up upon a frame), which any
tinsmith can make, with a lump of solder fixed at every exact
20 feet, leaving 5 feet at each end, to which ends ring for hold-
ing it should be attached. Two men are needed for the staking,,
whom we will style A and B. The first thing to do is to find a
right angle, taking in as much of the block as possible. This is-
got by using the square, the sides of which are long enough to
enable one to sight the lines the whole length of the field.
Having decided where the corner angle is to come it is at once
secured by A placing the square on the ground to the lay of the
block. The two sides of the base square can now be easily
drawn, by A remaining at the angles and sighting along the'
square for B, who with a bundle of 6 feet reeds walks along the
projected line, placing one every 30 or 40 yards, which may be'
pushed firmly in after its correctness is determined by A. This
line can be sighted out the entire length of field by so placing a
succession of reeds. The second line of the base angle may in
the same manner be sighted out. The right angle is now secured,,
which form the two sides of the base square. Next the wire is
stretched along one of the lines, both men having previously
shouldered a bag of stakes, or reeds, say 12 inches long, which
should have been previously dipped in a thick lime, to their
centres. After the wire is fixed, both walk towards the middle,,
at each lump of solder pushing a stake into the ground for three-
quarters of its length, the white-washed end uppermost, and always-
on the same side of the wire. When all are staked, the wire is-
moved along onward, until the whole length of one side is slaked
at exactly 20 ft. apart, the other side of the angle is then similarly
staked, beginning, of course, from the first stake set, which will
be the corner one. The wire will allow for the marking out for
10 trees at once ; the men therefore move down this latter line to-
the tenth stake, bringing the wire parallel with the first line

37

.-staked. The angle is then brought up to the tenth peg, and
-another line is sighted, and marked with 6 feet reeds parallel with
the first. The correctness of this parallel line should now be
tested by the wire in, say, two places, the angle being placed by
A in each case square with the first line drawn, to enable him to
know that the wire is stretched at a right angle : If the sighting
lias been correct they should have a perfect parallelogram. Upon
A assuring himself of this fact, the wire is stretched along No. 3
line, and it is staked out, as before, its entire length. A aid
B then bring the wire back to the two opposite stakes parallel,
and twenty feet from the second line, they then stretch the
wire across and both walk towards the centre, staking at each
piece of solder, and always taking care to place the stakes
•on the same side of the line as those already set. When the
whole parallelogram is staked, it can be used as a base square
.and the rest of the piece can be worked from it by a continuation
of the same process, or by sighting each row. Two men should
stake out, in this way, from ten to fifteen acres in a day. When
the whole piece is finished, and it is better to finish before
planting, the correctness, or otherwise, of the work is at once
.apparent by the white line of stakes. Great care must be taken
that the wire does not become crinked. Now A must take the
setting-board, as already described, and having slung over his
rshoulders a bag of stakes, he places the centre notch of the
board to the first stake and after placing one foot on the board
to hold it firm, pushes in two other stakes, taking care they are
driven squarely into the ground in the other notches, the original
-central stake can now be withdrawn and ready for use at the
next hole. The first hole is now ready for the digger, who
makes his hole in the middle, between the two stakes, throwing
the upper soil to one side, and the subsoil to the other side, and
in each case just by the hole ; care must be taken by the digger
not to move the stakes with his feet. When the hole is complete
it is ready for the planter, who comas along with a setting-board
•exactly similar to the one used for staking, and after selecting a
tree from those which are presumably beside him protected by a
wet sack, and kneeling down with one knee on the board, the
tree is brought into the central notch, the roots are carefully
spread out with the hands, and what was the surface soil is gently
rshovelled in ; the planter taking care it is well worked
among the roots with his hands. When sufficient is worked in
to hold it firm, with one hand holding the tree in an upright
position, he rises, and the men shovel in the remainder of the
soil, the planter retaining his hold on the stem of the tree to keep
it upright, at the same time treading gently round, while the soil
is being thrown in, to firmly fix the tree, which we may say
should be planted at the same depth as it has formerly stood in
the nursery. The holes cannot be dug too big or too deep ; but
before beginning planting enough soil should be replaced, and

38

highest in the middle of the hole, to bring the level about right
for the roots to be spread out by the planter. Three men will be
found the best number to plant : two shovellers and a planter.

Should manure be applied at planting, it should either be put
deep down below the roots, or it should be afterwards spread on
the surface of the soil around the tree. After planting deciduous-
trees of every variety, excepting walnuts, they should be cut
down 15 or 18 inches from the ground and all the lateral branches
should be cut off close to the stem, but not so close that the buds
that are often to be found at the base of such lateral (/>., against
the main stem) are cut off, as should this be done no bud can
force itself out from such place, and should all such buds be
carried away in removing the lateral, a badly balanced or dead
tree would result.

All young trees must be carefully examined about every two-
weeks during the first three months of the first season's growth,,
and all buds making a growth along the low^er ten inches of the
stem should be rubbed off with the fingers, as the object in view
is to iorce out the laterals from the upper buds of the single stem.
In order to make the orchard of a uniform shape the rubbing off
of these buds requires to be done intelligently ; on arrival at each
tree the buds that are already forced out, or likely to be forced
out, should be noted, the object in view being to allow three or
four of such buds only to remain, and these should be retained
in such a position as to evenly distribute the future main limbs
around the tree so that the head shall be thoroughly balanced.

Another point to be noticed is that the nurseryman's labels,.
which are very often carelessly overlooked, are not eating into-
the tree ; if they are tightening they should be freed, in fact it is
better at as early a date as possible after planting to make a
ground plan of all orchards and take off the labels ; a constant
source of danger is thus removed.

The main work in every orchard during the first year is the
working of the soil by ploughing and loosening with a cultivator
which should be constantly going in order to keep the trees free
from weeds, &c. Should irrigation be needed it must be done
with caution, and after every such irrigation the soil shall be
worked with the cultivator. The soil must never be allowed to
cake round a young tree, one must also never forget to trim the-
roots of all trees before planting them. They should be cut from,
the centre outwards wiih a sharp knife.

In conclusion, keep a close and continuous watch over the
young trees for insects, caterpillars of sorts, and calandras, &c., &c. ^
should they be found in any quantity a daily hand picking will
be quite necessary.

39

GENERAL REMARKS ON PRUNING-

We are frequently asked " What is the best time to prune ?*'r
Our reply is always " When the trees are in a dormant state,
roughly from the 15th of June until the end of August." But
at the same time we must add that cutting a tree at its different
stages of growth has a different effect, and of late years consider-
able departure has been made from this formerly, I believe, cast-
iron rule. In California (and we have seen it done with equal
success here), it is customary soon after the harvesting of the
crop of apricots to cut away the entire top of the tree a few
inches above the place where it will later have to be pruned ;
this results in a severe shock to the system, giving the flow of
sap a strong check just at a time when it is not in vigorous flow,
thus tending to the formation of fruit buds, as it must be
remembered that these are more readily formed when the sap
is flowing sluggishly. Any observer will have noticed a sickly
tree is almost invariably well set to fruit, and also that trees
growing in rich soil takes longer to come into bearing. This
is by reason of the difference in vigour in the flow of sap.

Then again we hear a great deal nowadays about summer
pruning and the multitudinous advantages gained thereby. We
are perfectly satisfied that under the conditions that we grow
fruit in South Africa a summer pruning is more an element of
danger than of benefit. In the west we have our dry hot summer,,
and with moisture either placed there by irrigation or naturally
in the ground, the uniform result is a strong vigorous growth
of -wood. Now, should one begin summer pruning such
trees it means simply a temporary cheek, and then another new
growth which is of absolutely no advantage, but if the right time
is selected, and it can only be determined on each season by
careful observation, and is just at the time of autumn or when
the flow of sap is slowing up, a slight thinning out of the
new top growth to allow the sun to penetrate all parts of the
tree, and a careful shortening in of the laterals on which fruit
will later be carried will undoubtedly tend to the formation of
many fruit buds. This style of autumn pruning applies to apples
and pears only.

We should never touch either the peach or plum during the
growing season except to cut clean away the water suckers that
almost invariably grow up as the result of keeping the centre of
the tree open. We notice on the Continent, in France, Italy,
and Spain, and wherever fruit is at all carefully grown, the main
idea, whether it may be a peach, apricot, pear or plum, is to
h'i'p the tree well open and not to have too many main limbs, this
appeared the key to all their pruning. The result being that
after the tree comes into full bearing there is very little more
cutting to be done.

40

We have seen nothing in this country to lead us to advise
planters to be non-pruners. In fact, the result of our observa-
tions lead us to believe that this is pre-eminently a country in
which the correct, or otherwise, pruning of an orchard will be
an important factor in its ultimate success or failure. The " Low
head" system of pruning is the one, we are convinced, is best
for here.

Firstly : Being a country of hot suns, this style best shelters
the stem and keeps the soil abound the tree cool.

Secondly : Take the undoubted advantages derived from
picking the majority of the fruit from near the ground.

Thirdly. The minimum of danger which such trees are
•exposed from the force of the strong and gusty winds, which are
the orchardist's bete noir in many parts of this country.

Fourthly. The firm and solid foundation one is able to give a
tree grown on these lines are important points in a climate like
ours, where trees carry, very often, maximum crops.

The well-spread foundation thus gained is most important in
other ways ; it enables the laterals thrown out from the main
limbs, of which latter, by-the-bye, take care there are not too
many, plenty of room, to be annually or where necessary shortened
in, and in turn throw out other side shoots, which will bear fruit
over a number of years ; and being carried near the main limbs,
will be practically safe from the winds, and the flow of sap there,
i.e., in the main limbs, being strong, the fruit will be of good size
and quality.

I have treated at some length this important matter of founda-
tion-laying in another paragraph.

The conditions under which orcharding is being practised in
South Africa are very diverse, and the details of successful
pruning will undoubtedly differ ; some districts will require
more bearing wood being retained, others less ; these details
must be left to the judgment of the individual primer ; this is
no rule-of -thumb job, but brains, guiding a knife, or pair of
pruning shears, as the case may be. The object in view always
being a continuous succession of crops of good quality fruit,
covering the greatest possible nnmber of -years from a given
tree.

All dead and diseased wood, not forgetting dead fruit spurs,
should invariably be removed at each season's pruning.

Also all cuts, except the cuts on the thin laterals and spurs,
should be painted over ; any materials will do, waste or good
paint, tar grafting, wax, shellac, and in fact any material that
will exclude atmospheric influences,

In implements try th^ best, »., most expensive, shears you can
get. Swiss makes and shapes are the best, and they should be
supplied with a spare blade ; a pair of such shears will last years.

A siitf r/iifi non, as far as thorough work is concerned, is the
California Pruning Saw. A frame saw, which should also be
bought with a spare blade. These are stocked by the leading
ironmongers in Cape Town and elsewhere.

41

REPORTED TENDENCY OF FARMERS, WHO AT ONE
TIME BELIEVED IN IT, TO NOW NEGLECT PRUNING.

Several thinking Fruit-growers have remarked to us the last
year or two that there is a tendency among growers, who took up
the pruning of fruit trees some few years ago, and who after keep-
ing it up on the lines advocated by experts are inclined to now
•condemn it as tending to prevent their trees coining into bearing ;
to such we would say, do not under .any circumstances make up
your mind that pruning in Africa is either a mistake or is
unnecessary ; we attribute this result to one of two causes,
either the grower has started pruning a tree which was perhaps
four to six years old, and was either already in bearing or was
just coming into bearing, or the planter has pruned his tree from
the time of setting, and he expects to get his fruit too soon.
In the first of these instances beginning the necessary cutting
when the tree is already established will certainly have the effect
of retarding its coming into bearing, and we consider from the
result of our own personal experience in many different classes of
trees, and we have had it in thousands of cases, that it is a mistake
to do on such trees a hea?y cutting out and heading back. If it
is necessary to tackle the shaping of such trees, and it generally
is so, do the requisite opening out *nd heading back in one year,
and after that for the next season, do very little cutting indeed,
doing (if anything but a peach) almost all that is required in the
first summer, so that the winter cutting will be almost nothing, as
one must remember that nature preserves a balance between the
roots of the tree and the head, which she takes care to maintain ;
therefore, if one goes on everlastingly cutting at the head, nature
will continue to push out new wood and throw off the blossom
without their setting owing to the strength in the flow of sap.
No ! make your heavy cutting in one year to bring the tree into
some shape and for bearing and for remaining some years in an
orchard where the plough and the cultivator must be worked to
•economize the labour of keeping clean and loose In the matter of
the second case, growers expect too much from their tree, when
young. We see on referring to Australian Government reports that
some few years ago, there was a great boom in fruit tree planting,
but that many growers have thrown up the sponge, the
majority because they are too impatient to get returns, and
considered that because their trees were not bringing in money in
two or three years, that their orchards were not a success, and
that trees would not prove satisfactory in their district ; nothing
could be more erroneous than views such as these. The practical
Fruit-grower recognizes that he must wait a certain length
of time for each class of tree to come into bearing, and he
Awaits and waits, being perfectly satisfied so long as his

42

trees showed a thoroughly healthy appearance, he accepting
this as the natural increment as a result of his timer
money, trouble, and brains. Only a few weeks ago we were
asked to accompany the Chief Justice through his orchard
in Drakenstein. Among other trees, he had over 1,000 pears
planted five years ago ; he was not satisfied with the growth and
bearing of these, the Bon Chretiens being the only variety that was
carrying a small crop. We at once recognized that the trees were
doing very satisfactorily and told him so, at which he seemed
quite relieved ; we mentioned at the time that we had planted
several thousand pear trees on our own place and that if they were
doing as well at the same age we would be perfectly satisfied. It
would well repay the Government to have a man going round
continually who had an intimate knowledge of what to expect
from the different classes of fruit, to point out to orchardists where
trees are in bearing whether the growth be satisfactory or no, and
whether the general health and appearance of the orchard be
commensmate with the money and work put on it.

In conclusion, we would say that Farmers should under no
circumstance neglect pruning, but that cutting is a rational
operation and is done before the tree is expected to bear, with
the sole idea of shaping the tree to enable it to carry fruit, and
after the tree comes into bearing, with the idea of retaining it in
fruit covering a long lifetime.

We think that it will not be out of place here to give a table
showing about what date the principal classes of fruits begin to
come into bearing, it may be a guide to growers.

Apples, on Spy or Com munis from Rome Beauty, which bears in
the 3rd year, to Spy which bears in the 8th, dependent on variety,,
or Paradise, 2 years earlier so far as we know through all varieties.

Pears on Pear, from Bon Chretien in the 4th year to Duchess
d'Angouleme in the 7th.

On Quince in our experience hardly any earlier ; this stock
should however save a couple of years.

Peaches. In the 3rd year, often in the 2nd.

Apricots. In the 4th year.

Plums and Prunes. Domestic, in the 5th year,

Japanese in the 2nd year.

Cherries, in the 6th year.

43

THE PRUNING OF YOUNG DECIDUOUS TREES THE
YEAR AFTER PLANTING-

One can treat of all varieties here under a single head, as the
object now in view is solely to lay the foundation of the treer
and whether the fruit will be carried on the old wood, or on the
growth of the last summer, is a matter which one has not to
take into consideration until next year. This pruning is there-
fore the most simple of actual cutting operations, but at the
same time such cutting makes or mars the future tree.

The object in view is to spread the tree, and lay an open
foundation. Should the three or four shoots, which we have
said must be retained, be in their right places, all one has to do
is to cut them back to a third or a quarter of their length, in
every case cutting to an outside bud should the limb be growing
• too upright, and to an inside bud should it have a too spreading
tendency. Bear in mind that the shoots leaving the stem at an
obtuse angle are much to be preferred to those forced out at a very
acute angle, as when the tree is large, carrying a heavy crop of
fruit, there is great danger of an acute angle limb breaking clean
off from the main stem, disfiguring the tree for life, and also
less?ning its bearing capacity. The obtuse, tangled shoots will
often be found to take an upward turn, about nine inches from the
main stem. Here is a good place to have them off, cutting to an
outer bud ; but should this upward tendency 1 egin too far from
the main stem, cut it short of it and to an inner bud. Let us now
take an opposite extreme ; a tree which has only forced out one
shoot. If this be a perpendicular one and near the top of the
stem, cut it down within six inches of its base, and make your
foundation the following year from the shoots formed from the
buds on this short six inches. We may add, that this throwing
out of one shoot only is very seldom seen on a properly grown
and carefully handled nursery stock, and it is a matter which
should always claim the attention of the intelligent buyer. Should
the shoots retained be not as w^ell distributed round the stem as
could be wished, they can now be spread by the insertion of a
small wedge, sharpened at both ends, and made of a previously-
cut-off shoot. A small notch must be cut in the side of the two
shoots to be spread, at the point best calculated to bring them to
their required individual positions. The wedge can then be
inserted, and will remain quite firm until the shoots have accom-
modated themselves to their new position, which they will hence-
forward retain. An acute angle can also be changed to an obtuse
angle, by the insertion of a similar wedge between such shoot and
the main stem, thus forcing it outwards. All cuts should be
painted over with waste paint, shellac, or some other preservative^

44

NOTE-

Since writing the following directions on the pruning of the
different classes of fruits which we did some four years ago, we
have seen reason to somewhat modify our recommendations. We
consider it may be of advantage to growers, to see just where such
modifications and alterations are. The result of our latest four
years' experience affect the former instructions, we therefore in
each instance place our modification in a separate paragraph in
each class direction, which we think need modifying and printed
in italics in the original instruction.

THE APPLE.

1896. Taking the tree at the second season from planting, one
finds that each of the laterals retained after last year's shorter ing
have thrown out two or more long shoots. If any of these are
-crowding others, cut them clean away, retaining only those which
are tending to evenly distribute the limbs on the foundation.
Those left should be shortened to a third of their length. Any
-of the laterals which have leen thrown out during last season's
growth must he shortened into two or three buds.

The apple bears on the spurs thrown out, either directly from
the main limbs, or from the shortened-in laterals, and also some
varieties at the terminal buds, and the object in pruning is to
encourage the formation of fruit-buds on these spurs. The main
upright shoots of the apple should net be topped much after the
second year, as the foundation should now be firm and stocky.
Only such shoots as may crowd out others, or overlap, must be cut
away, and the laterals must always be either shortened-in to form
spurs, or cut clean out if they crowd one another. This, of
•course, at the discretion of tne prnner. The fruit-buds are the
large prominent thickset rounded buds, distinct from the smaller,
less prominent buds, lying close to the branches.

1900. Don't shorten-i n the laterals to two or three buds, leave them
say six inches in length, arid don't keep up this constant heading
back and shortening-in of laterals — when the tree has got a good
sturdy growth, say in two to four years, dependent on the variety,
let it rip, cutting out those branches only that interfere with
others : it will throw itself into fruit quicker left practically alone,
and when once in fruit judicious cutting back and shortening-in
of laterals can be recommenced.

45

THE PEAR-

1896. The fruit is carried by the pear on the spurs thrown out
from the wood of more than one year's growth, and in isolated
cases (much less frequent than with the apple) at the terminal
buds. No account should be taken of the latter mode of bearing,,
but one's entire attention devoted to securing the fruit on the
spurs.

On taking over the pear at the second pruning, one finds much
the same growth to be treated as on the apple, but it will
generally be forced out in greater profusion, and in the case of
upright growers, in a more compact mass. The shortening-in
process should be strictly 'carried out, cutting off from a half to
two-thirds of the last season's groXvth. In the upright growers-
the shoots should be considerably thinned out, cutting out always
the inner ones, to force the growth outwards, in order to spread
the tree. The course of treatment to l>e pursued in future years
is a constant cutting lack and thinning out of the long upright
growth, and tlie keeping of the spurs, after fruiting, in a sound
and healthy state by an occasional thinning-out and shortening-
in. The main object should be to keep the tree open, in order
to allow the sun to ripen the spurs, and also to give them room
to grow and carry their fruit. We may here state that we do not
approve of a system practised in some orchards we have seen.
In place of shortening-in the head the limbs are bent out, and
brought into a horizontal position by being fastened to stakes,
It is certainly a ready way of encouraging fruiting, but we have
frequently noticed that trees so treated are liable in the near
future to be severely scalded by the sun, resulting in an entire
burning away of the exposed surface, ever afterwards making an
unhealthy tree.

1900. The constant cutting back and thinning out of the top we
still consider necessary, but it must be done in moderation. Don't
cut back too severely, one-third of the last season's growth
will be enough, and leave the laterals from 6 inches to 12 inches in
height, dependent on their position.

THE PEACH.

1896. The pruning of this tree we consider the most intricate of
all, but it is very simple when the idea is once grasped. The
fruit is carried on the new wood, i.e., the wood of the previous-
season's growth. The one object then is to induce the growth of
new or bearing wood, which is done by heavy cutting back and
thinning out, as it must be remembered that however much growth-

46

is forced out one can part with just as much as one considers
•desirable, leaving such shoots as will most evenly distribute- the
fruit over the entire bearing-surface of the tree.

In taking the tree after its second season's growth, one will
probably find a fair number of double and treble buds on the
shoots thrown out, which are the fruit-yielding buds, as the
peach is a very precocious bearer, carrying a crop in its third
year. The system to be pursued at this pruning and at every
subsequent annual one is the same, a more or less severe cutting-
back, and thinning-out, and a glance at each individual tree will
show where the fruit for the coming season is b^ing carried.

Should the tree be wrhat is called well set to fruit, a greater
amount of cutting clean away can be done. If the fruit is being
carried near the base of the new growth, the shortening-in must
be heavy, cutting away about three quarters. Should the tree
make a poor show for fruit, more wood must be left ; and if the
fruit is carried near the ends of the new growth, very little
shortening-in must be done, but a heavier course of thinning-oat.

Taking an average tree, fairly set to fruit, the new growth
retained must be shortened-in to one-hslf of its former length,
and this wood must be spread over each individual branch, by
cutting out usually the most upright and central growth. It must
be remembered that this central and strongest growth, is as a rule,
the most unsatisfactory for bearing. Examine your branches and
you will often see that you can cut away this strong growth, and
retain a couple of thinner and thoroughly ripened bearing shoots
below, thus bringing the tree two feet or three feet lower at a cut,
and at the same time retaining the best bearing wood. We may
say that one can cut into the old wood of a peach tree with
impunity, and we should frequently do it should we have desirable
bearing wood below, in order to bring the tree down. What one
has to remember in cutting is to spread the shoots one wishes to
retain, by cutting out the centre. It is not advisable to cut clean
.away well-ripened wood thrown out from the main limbs, but
shorten them in, and they will carry fruit of an excellent quality
safely. At the same time there are very frequently thrown out a
number of sappy unripened shoots in the centre of the tree
where the sun has had no opportunity of playing ; these should
be in every instance cut clean away.

1900. We have no objection to the directions given above, but
advise growers to modify the whole system by not cutting so
heavily, our reason being that on getting knowledge covering a
more lengthy period of years, we are satisfied that peaches in
most varieties grown are a more or less uncertain crop ; there is
invariably a heavy drop of fruit resulting generally in a light
€rop ; we prefer now to prune less heavily and to thin thoroughly ; if
too heavy a crop sets in this way, a regular crop of peaches can be
almost relied upon. Also we wish to draw growers' attention to
the absolute safety of doing one's cutting back, especially in
peaches and Japanese plums, after the fruit has set ; we have tried
it several years and can recommend it with confidence.

47

THE APRICOT.

The Apricot is probably the tree of all others that suffers
most from a neglect of annual pruning. It carries its fruit on
the spurs thrown out from the wood of more than one year's
growth, and also sometimes on the wood of the last season's
growth. But being a rampant grower, it is inadvisable to take
into consideration the possibility of obtaining a few fruits on the
long tops of new wood, as to keep the tree well in hand, these
must be sacrificed, and one can rest assured that the act of
disposing of them tends to force out spurs from the older and
stronger wood, which brings one's fruit in nearer the main supply
of sap, which circulates more freely through t'liese stronger
branches, thus increasing size and quality of product, and also
placing the fruit in a position where the wind will do it little
damage.

In taking over the tree at the second winter pruning, one
finds a strong and heavy growth of the new wood, frequently a
yard in length, and occasionally six feet. The greater portion
of this must be cut away. One will generally find that from the
ends of the wood left at the former year's cutting two, and some-
times even three and four, strong shoots have been thrown
out. Should there be but two, spread well apart and also spread
out in such a way as not to interfere with any shoot on the next
branch which it is advisable to retain ; both can be kept, shorten-
ing into a iquarter or a third of their length, the object being
always to retain these limbs as nearly equi-distant as possible ;
if three or four shoots have been thrown out, one or two must be
cut clean away, it always being kept in mind that the wood now
being left will be the future main limbs and there must not be
too many of them ; and their general directions must be main-
tained, always avoiding the formation of angles and forks in the
branches as much as possible. Actual fruit-bearing spurs will
seldom be found iri the Apricot at the second pruning, but there
may be a number of small laterals or spurs which will eventually
bear fruit. These must not be cut away, but shurtened-in to
tivo inches, or three inches, and if there is a profusion, must be
thinned out. The third and following annual cuttings must be
of similar character, the cutting away of the majority of the
long tops, and a heavy shortening-in of those retained. It is
not desirable to have too many limbs, as when the fruit spurs
are thrown out, and all those over 2 inches to 3 inches in length
are shortened-in, these spurs will not only carry fruit, but throw
out other spurs from their terminal buds, and if these are intelli-
gently treated they will continue healthy and vigorous and bear
fruit for many successive years, and they must be allowed room.
The points to be remembered are to shorten-in the fruit spurs

48

and to keep the top well headed down. It is very undesirable-
to cut into the old wood of an apricot tree, and it is never
necessary if the annual pruning has been done. If one season
you neglect this cutting away of the tops, and have to cut into
the old wood the following year, the symmetry of the tree is-
destroyed for ever. Any professional man could detect it at a
glance half a dozen years after the omission.

Another important point to remember is, to cut all the dead
fruit spurs on the main stem, because after this is done the
dormant buds on either side will be more inclined to throw out ;
and when they do they are sure to form fine fruit producers.

1900. We still consider our 1896 directions good throughout,,
but would say that instead of cutting back the fruit spurs to two
or three inches we should shorten them from four inches to seven
inches, dependent entirely on the length, and as a rough guide-
we would say shorten all those of over eight inches long to half
their original length, those between four and eight inches long
shorten to four inches, and those of a less length than four inches
leave alone.

As regards the long tops, when the tree gets over five years of
age we would say shorten them in one-third of their length.

THE PLUM (INCLUDING ALL PRUNES).

1896. The Plum also bears on the short spurs, consisting of a
mass of sharply pointed buds of half an inch and upwards, and
also on the laterals of from six inches to two feet in length,,
in each case thrown out from the old wood. At the second
winter pruning one will expect to find a long rampant perpendi-
cular growth, two or three shoots being thrown out from the
terminal buds of the wood allowed to remain at the last
cutting. The object should always be to spread the tree. It
is therefore advisable to retain the outward shoot, shortening it
in to one-third its original length. Never retain the whole of
the long perpendicular growth on each branch, but it is quite
allowable to retain two such growths 011 one limb, should they
be well spread apart, and if number two tends to fill a space in
the general symmetry of the head. Should any laterals be
thrown out they must not be cut away, but shortened-in to a
third of their length. These laterals, which will later carry the-
majority of the crop, must be carefully tended to keep them in
a healthy condition. The year after they are first thrown out..
and the shortening-in just described has been done, they will
form fruit-buds on the majority, their length, and also throw out
short growths from their terminal buds, which should be
shortened-in, and so treated in successive seasons. One's whole-
object in spreading the foundation of the tree is to give these-

49

laterals the space to grow, and to allow them air and light, to
ripen their buds, and mature their fruit. Shortening-in all the
perpendicular growth, and cutting away none, is a most fatal
course to pursue, infinitely rather do nothing at all, as every
year a cutting is done brings the following season a duplex and
triplex growth, resulting in a thickset growth of unripened,
sappy wood, which could never carry fruit, except perhaps a
little on the outside. It is absolutely necessary that the laterals
:get sun and light. Should this course of cutting-back and
thinning-out be followed for four or five years, when the tree is
in bearing, little or no pruning will be required, as the weight
of the crop will always tend to spread the tree, giving the limbs
more room. No ! The plum requires little pruning when once
in bearing, a shortening-in, or thinning-out of laterals, which
imay intersect, only.

1900. We have no comment to make on our recommendation of
1896 as to the pruning of the plum, we still think that if our
• directions are carried out a good tree will result. However there
is one feature in plum growing in this country which needs some
notice. We have given this a separate article, which you will find
on pape 56. This is the article refering to the uneven starting
out of domestic plums.

SPRAYING.

The spraying of fruit trees is necessary if growers are to make
-a success of their orchards. It is a remedy for both insect pests
and fungoid diseases, but the ingredients and manner of applying
vary considerably.

We shall only give here particulars of the several washes which
wre have found efficacious and also some particulars of how to
make them and apply them. We, in getting satisfactory results,
have generally followed the instructions and formulae issued
from time to time by the United States Department of Agricul-
ture, and we think we cannot do better than draw on the same
well-informed source, for the particulars we are here supplying to
growers, making a few alterations and eliminating details that we
do not think are needed by growers in Africa.

FUNGICIDES AND FUNGOID DISEASES.

Bordeaux Mixture we have found to be away ahead of all
washes as a fungicide in the West.

Mainly because it is applied in the Spring without any danger
to foliage and at a time when the rainy season is practically over,
this latter being a very important consideration. We believe
thoroughly in the winter washes, but we find them impracticable,
owing to continuous rains, resulting in our inability to move an

D

50

orchard spray pump on wheels through the orchards, the spray
being continually washed off and serving little purpose.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture say as follows :

This wash (Bordeaux) has long been recognized as possessing
the most valuable qualities, and it is probably more generally used
to-day than all other fungicides combined. The chief points in
its favour are, (1) its thorough effectiveness as a fungicide, (2)
its cheapness, (3) its safety from a hygienic standpoint, (4) its
harmlessness to the sprayed plant, and (5) its beneficial effects on
plants other than those resulting from the mere prevention of the
attacks of parasites.

All things considered, it is believed that the best results will be
obtained from the use of what is known as the 50-gallon formula
of this preparation. This contains —

Water ... ... ... ... ... 50 gallons

Copper sulphate... ... ... ... 6 pounds

Unslacked lime ... ... ... ... 4 pounds

It has been found that the method of combining the
ingredients has an important bearing on both the chemical com-
position and physical structure of the mixture. For example, if
the copper sulphate is dissolved in a small quantity of water and
the lime milk diluted to a limited extent only, there results,
when these materials are brought together, a thick mixture,
having strikingly different characters from one made by pouring
together weak solutions of lime and copper sulphate. It is truer
furthermore, that if the copper sulphate solution and lime milk
are poured together while the latter or both are warm, different
effects are obtained than if both solutions are cool at the moment
of mixing. Where the mixture has been properly made there is
scarcely any settling after an hour, while the improperly made
mixture may settle more than half.

Briefly, the best results have been obtained from the use of the
Bordeaux mixture made in accordance with the following
directions. In a barrel or other suitable vessel place 25 gallons of
water. Weigh out 6 pounds of copper sulphate, then tie the
same in a piece of coarse gunny sack and suspend it just beneath
the surface of the water. By tying the bag to a stick laid across-
the top of the barrel no further attention will be required. In
another vessel slack 4 pounds of lime, using care in order to
obtain a smooth paste, free from grit and small lumps. To accom-
plish this it is best to place the lime in an ordinary water pail and
add only a small quantity of water at first, &ay a quart, or a quart
and a half. When the lime begins to crack and crumble and the
water to disappear, add another quart or more, exercising care
that the lime at no time gets too dry. Towards the last consider-
able water will be required, but if added carefully and slowly a
perfectly smooth paste will be obtained, provided, of course, the
lime is of good quality. When the lime is slacked add sufficient

51

water to the paste to bring the whole up to 25 gallons. When
the copper sulphate is entirely dissolved and the lime is coolr
pour the lime milk and copper sulphate solution slowly together,
using two buckets, each handled by a man, into a barrel holding
50 gallons. The milk of lime should be thoroughly stirred before
pouring. The method described insures good mixing, but to-
complete this work the barrel of liquid should receive a final
stirring, for at least three minutes, with a broad wooden paddle.

It is now necessary to determine whether the mixture is-
perfect — that is, if it will be safe to apply it to tender foliage. To-
accomplish this, two simple tests may be used. First insert the
blade of a penknife in the mixture, allowing it to remain there
for at least one minute. If metallic copper forms on the blade, or
in other words, if the polished surface of the steel assumes the
colour of copper plate, the mixture is unsafe and more lime mus&
be added. If, on the other hand, the blade of the knife remaint
unchanged, it is safe to conclude that the mixture is as perfect as-
it can be made. As an additional test, however, some of the
mixture may be poured into an old plate or saucer, and while
held between the eyes and the light the breath should be gently
blown upon the liquid for at least half a minute. If the mixture
is properly made, a thin pellicle, looking like oil on water, will
begin to form on the surface of the liquid. If no pellicle forms,
more milk of lime should be added.

STOCK SOLUTIONS.

The foregoing directions apply to cases where small quantittes
of the mixture are needed for more or less immediate use. If
spraying is to be done upon a large scale, it will be found much
more convenient and economical in every way to prepaie what
are known as stock solutions of both the copper and lime. To
prepare a stock solution of copper sulphate procure a barr* 1 hold-
ing 50 gallons. Weigh out 100 pounds of copper sulphate, and
after tying it in a sack suspend so that it will hang as near the top
of the barrel as possible. Fill the barrel with water, and in two
or three days the copper will be dissolved. Now remove the sack
and add enough water to bring the solution again up to the 50-
gallon mark, previously made on the barrel. It will be under-
stood, of course, thac this second adding of water is merely to
replace the space previously occupied by the sack and the crystals
of copper sulphate. Fach gallon of the solution thus made will
contain two pounds of copper sulphate, and under all ordinary
conditions of temperature, there will be no material recrystalliza-
tion, so that the stock preparation may be kept indefinitely.

Stock lime may pe prepared in much the same way as the
copper sulphate solution. Procure a barrel holding 50 gallons,
making a mark to indicate the 50-gallon point. Weigh out 100
pounds of fresh lime, place it in the barrel and slack it. When
slacked, add sufficient water to bring the whole mass up to 50

52

gallons. Each gallon of this preparation contains, after thorough
stirring, two pounds of lime.

When it is desired to make Bordeaux mixture of the 50-gallon
formula it is only necessary to measure out 3 gallons of the
stock copper solution, and after thorough stirring, 2 gallons of
the stock lime ; dilute each to 25 gallons, mix, stir and test
as already described. One test will be sufficient in this case.
In other words, it will not be necessary to test each lot of
Bordeaux mixture made from the stock preparations, provided
the first lot is perfect and no change is made in the quantities of
the materials used. Special care should be taken to see that the
lime milk is stirred thoroughly each time before applying. As a
final precaution it will be well to keep both the stock copper
sulphate and the stock lime tightly covered.

The Bordeaux Mixture can be applied safely at any time, and
we think if one is able to get on the job the first application
should be made before the blossoming period. As it must be
remembered that fungicides are not a cure, but a jjreventaiive
arresting the germination of the spores, therefore early application
is necessary. The spraying can safely be continued through the
blossoming period we find three or four sprayings sufficient to
retain our foliage in a healthy condition and apply every two or three
weeks from the date of the first application, a good deal of course
depending on whether we get rains or riot. Meanwhile we can
assure growers that we had our own trees, particularly prunes and
domestic plums, bare of foliage in the middle of March in 1898,
whereas in 1899 they were in full foliage a month later — this
result we put down entirely to the use of Bordeaux Mixture.

Lime, Sulphur and Salt is also a thoroughly effective fungicide,
and we can recommend it with confidence in the East and North,
where the Winter is almost always fine, and where when the
work is well done it should remain on the tree during the winter.
It must never be used except when the tree is quite dormant, or it
will kill off the trees. Besides being a fungicide it is a sure cure
for the white scale of the peach, a disease very prevalent through-
out Africa; also effiacious against other scales, in fact it is the best
•cure for the white scale we know of and also for curl leaf in
Peaches.

The following formula and directions, if properly carried out,
will produce an effective solution :

Unslacked lime 4 > pounds I Stock salt 15 pounds

•Sulphur 20 pounds | Water to make 60 gallons.

DIRECTIONS. — Place 10 pounds of lime and 20 pounds of sul-
phur in a boiler with 20 gals, of water, and boil over a brisk fire
for not less than one hour and a half, or until the sulphur is
thoroughly dissolved. When this takes place the mixture Avill be
of an amber colour. Next place in a cask 30 pounds of unslacked
lime, pouring over it enough hot water to thoroughly slack it,
and while it is boiling add the 15 Ibs. of salt. When this is

53

dissolved, add to the lime and sulphur in the boiler and cook for
half an hour longer, when the necessary amount of water to make
the 60 gallons should be added.

With the effective use of one or other of the above fungicides*
or both if necessary, we are confident any orchard can be kept
clean from fungoid diseases.

INSECT PESTS.

Pear Slug, is prevalent all over the country and affects pears,
plums, and cherries. This of all the pests that trouble the
orchardist is about the easiest to get rid of. We remember the
time however, and that only a few years ago, when the growers
in the Western Province used no remedy for this pest, and
we have ourselves heard such an intelligent grower as
Mr. C. D. Rudd, of Newlands, declare that it was of no
use to plant a pear or a plum in Africa, as they were always
defoliated by Xmas ; perhaps even to-day in some parts of Africa
growers do not know how to kill this ugly little pest, whose
destruction is so simple.

Remedy. — Spray with Paris green at the rate of one Ib. to any-
thing from 150 to 230 gallons of water, and add umlac/ced lime
in sufficient quantity to make the solution a whitish colour. When
it dries on the trees, this addition of lime both prevents the Paris
green from destroying the foliage and enables the orchardist to
have a check on his sprayers, by allowing him to discover at once
if any trees have been skipped, or if the spraying has been badly
done. We recommend beginners to use the weaker solution of
Paris green, and add say five Ibs. of lime to one Ib. Paris green.
Many orchardists prefer to add treacle, which helps to fix the grains
of the material on the foliage, as it must be remembered that they
do not dissolve, but we consider the price of the treacle too high in
this country to allow of its being generally used ; this mixture
must be kept well stirred when being used.

Caterpillars. — From American sources, we see several remedies
recommended, Paris green being the favourite. We must say how-
ever that we have tried every known remedy and have got no
result, so as far as we can see ; that is to say that whereas we have
suffered from time to time very terribly from caterpillars, we
have always had to fall back on hand picking, which is an
expensive job, but which on young trees especially it will repay
the grower very well to do.

RedScale,and indeed other scales, are of course sucking insects
that draw their sustenance by pushing their proboscis through the
bark, and sucking out the sap as it ascends or descends. Growers
can readily understand that the Paris green, or other poison, has
110 effect, because the food cannot be got at, therefore suffocation
is the only means of killing.

The most effective remedy is, of course, the Hydrocyanic gas
treatment by means of fumigation with tents. The efficacy of

54

this has been thoroughly put before farmers, by our able
•entomologist, Mr. C. P. Lounsbury, and it would be out of place
here for us to enlarge on it, but we must say it is the
treatment that we ourselves use and believe thoroughly in. In
regard to the sprays that suffocate the best of these we believe to
be the

Resin Wash. — Formula 20 Ibs. resin, 6 Ibs. caustic soda, 3 Ibs.
fish oil, water to make 100 gallons.

Directions for preparing the above Wash. — Place the resin,
caustic soda, and fish oil in a large boiler, pouring over them
about 20 gals, of water and cook thoroughly over a brisk fire for
at least three hours ; then add hot water, a little occasionally, and
stir well until you have not less than 50 gals, of hot solution.
Place this in the spray tank and add cold water to make necessary
amount. Never add cold water when cooking.

American Blight (woolly aphis). — We have no pest in this
country, whose ravages are so widespread as this one, and
probably nore so difficult to keep in control (we say keep in
control advisedly because we find it impossible in old orchards
when the aphis is on the r >ots to entirely keep the pest away).
Our remedy which we have used with gieat success is paraffine
emulsion.

Formula. — Paraffine, 2 gallons ; whale-oil soap (or 1 quart soft
soap), 1 to 2 pounds ; water, 1 gallon.

Dissolve the soap in water by boiling, and add boiling hot,
away from the fire, to the kerosene. Agitate violently for five
minutes by pumping the liquid back upon itself with a force
pump and direct-discharge nozzle throwing a strong stream,
preferably one-eighth inch in diameter. The mixture will have
increased about one-third in bulk, and assumed the consistency
of cream. Well made, the emulsion should keep indefinitely, and
should be diluted only as wanted for use. This solution can be
diluted from 10 to 20 times at discretion of the sprayer.

Should your trees be supplied you from the Nurseryman free
from aphis — which is a consummation devoutly to be wished, your
best method of keeping your orchard clean will be by having
your eye continually round the trees, and should a spot be
discovered where the insect has got a hold, treat it at once with
neat parafine and a feather, which kills immediately on contact ;
we do not advise the wholesale treatment of this fruit with neat
parafine, but we do insist that it requires radical treatment should
it get lodgement in an orchard.

Red Spider is a serious pest in the spring on young grafts, and
indeed some years on young growth generally ; again, in the fall
before and during the time the fruit is ripe, it is a serious pest in
plum trees. Sulphur applied dry either by bellows or the
shaking of coarse bags is an almost safe cure ; there is also in
this country a minute black spider with red legs, who is a great

55

pest, especially on old top-grafted trees ; these you will also find
^succumb readily to this treatment. Lime Sulphur and Salt applied
in winter is also an excellent remedy.

Peach Maggot. — We know of no remedy, but can recommend
strongly the picking up of the maggoty fruit as it drops, and
consigning it to the pigsty, in fact we think it positively suicidal
for a grower to allow maggoty fruit to lie on the ground. Mr. C.
P. Lounsbury says if growers would only combine and do this
effectively, it would greatly help in spite of the insect being in
the wild fruit, and from our own personal experience we must
agree with him, and recommend to all growers to keep this up.

Codlin Moth. — It is a very important matter for growers of
apples and pears to keep this pest in check, it has been many
years in the Colony and makes slow headway, and with proper
•care we may be able to keep it in check. The attention of all
growers is here drawn to the notices of the Agricultural Depart-
ment posted in most public places in the Colony, and drawing
attention in a very concise form to the character and style of this
pest ; we cannot but emphasise the benefit to the public of
reporting any discovery in a new district of its presence (which
is easily identified) to the Government Entomologist, Cape Town.

In conclusion, we would say that spraying will be only partially
successful, no matter what the wash is, unless growers take care to
see that the solution is kept constantly and thoroughly stirred.

LATE AND EARLY BLOOMERS.

This subject is one of great importance to most growers in
South Africa, almost all our letters of enquiry contain some
reference to it. One cannot help noticing that in this connection
almost all growers jump to the conclusion that because a tree
bears late it must necessarily blossom late, whereas as a matter of
fact one may almost state that the reverse is the case. The date
of blossoming is affected by very many weather conditions in
each year, and may even vary in almost any variety to the extent
of one month, but, however, there are certain fruits whose habit
it is under the same conditions to fruit earlier than others, and it
is naturally safer to plant these sorts where late spring frosts
occur.

The selection of a site for an orchard is a very important factor
in its freedom from late and unseasonable frosts. This is a matter
which can be only left in the hands of the individual grower. It
is quite extraordinary on most farms in Africa, the variation in
the temperature in stretches of land practically adjoining.
Touching on the point that we raised when we said that the
•earliest fruits often blossom latest, we may bring up the fact that
in parts of the Transvaal where severe frosts are encountered and

56

where trees blossom late. Let us take apricots, they blossom later
and the fruit is ripe and on the market from two weeks to one
month ahead of ours in the Western Province.

In peaches again, we have Early Alexander Briggs Red May,
and indeed all the other well-known earlies ; they all blossom
late.

In pears, amongst • other well-known sorts the Bon Chretien
blossoms late and ripens its fruit early.

In Japanese plums, Kelseys blossom very early and ripen the
fruit very late. Simoni again blossom late and ripen their fruit
early. We only mention a few striking instances offered as a
caution to growers not to order late fruits to escape late frosts,,
but order the varieties that blossom late. This is again we
consider a point that the Government should get information and
publish it for the benefit of growers. We have not personally
been able to collect the data as to the season of blossoming of all
the varieties we stock. As a matter of fact, the majority of varieties-
blossom almost simultaneously, and again in the different classes
of fruit we would say that, speaking generally, apples, pears and
plums blossom later than apricots and peaches, almonds of course
being earliest of all.

IMPROPER STARTING INTO SPRING GROWTH OF
DOMESTIC PLUMS AND OTHER FRUIT TREES.

It is known that throughout Africa the seasons are variable,,
especially the springs. Nothing has a more immediate effect on
fruit trees than this. We are not here speaking of the fruit-
getting possibilities of the tree, but the growth making only.
This result is particularly noticeable some seasons in plums of
the domestic type and in prunes, and also occasionally affects
apricots, some sorts of peaches, mostly earlies, and a few sorts of
pears.

The effect is that instead of the buds at the extremities of the
perpendicular and lateral growths swelling first and then throwing
out a young growth, the buds at the bases of the several growths
start out first and often the result is that the base of the head is
full of a growth of strong suckers and the rest of the head is
dormant and remains so practically throughout the growing
season. Now unless the question is tackled in an intelligent way
the trees will be permanently injured. When the grower has
made up his mind that some of his trees are going to play him
the fool in this way, he must see at once that all this growth
resulting from the forcing of these base buds is pulled
away, and he must keep this up by pulling away the growth as it
is thrown out. By this course of treatment the sap will be
forced into its proper channels, which is of course the limbs of

57

the head which perhaps the grower may have taken several years1
to secure, and that as the result of a great deal of pains, trouble
and expense.

We wish to draw growers, special attention to these instruc-
tions, as we think they will prove of considerable service when
these conditions arise. Should this erratic style of spring growth
continue for two or three consecutive years, the orchardist's only
course is to work over the tree to another variety, whose habits
are regular in his particular district. We have this year had
several complaints about early peaches acting in this manner, thi&
is the first season we have had a general complaint and we have
known them over several years to do well. We consider cold
winds to be the main factor towards the unhealthy effect.

WHY FRUIT DOES NOT SET.

Often this happens on young trees because growers almost
always expect a tree to carry a crop before it is sufficiently
matured to do so ; the fact of the ' matter being that there is no
worse sign to the intelligent grower than to find his trees coming
into bearing before the right age. In a young tree we consider
that although sometimes it blossoms freely and one would naturally
expect a crop, it does not set the fruit because the flow of sap is-
so strong that it tends to throw the fruit off in trees of bearing
age for either of the following reasons :

1. Because during the blossoming season continued or fre-

quent rains occur, thus washing out the pollen ; in this
matter it may be laid down as a fact that rain in the
blossoming season must mean a shortage in the amount
of fruit that sets.

2. Because the fruit before setting is cut off by a frost or cold

wind.

3. Because insects may be prevented from visiting the flowera

during blossoming season ; it is essential that they should
do so, and the keeping of bees is quite to be encouraged
by growers for this purpose.

4. Because the varieties planted need cross fertilization.

Several varieties of apples and pears and plums are in
themselves unfertile, indeed of other classes of fruit in a
lesser degree and to secure a crop must be fertilized with
pollen from another sort, therefore it is always advisable
not to plant varieties in great big blocks of one sort. In
all our own plantings we have invariably kept this matter
in view, generally alternating rows with different varieties.
Some growers prefer to alternate the single trees, but we
think the different rows planted to different sorts should
meet the difficulty.

58

In the matter of the fertilization by bees it has been proved
that they should be kept within half a mile of the orchard. As
although they do often work under a radius of two or even three
miles, it is not so certain that their work is so effective.

We would say as a guide to planters that :

Pears may be expected to come into bearing the 5th or 6th year,
•dependent on the variety.

Apples may be expected to come into bearing the 3rd to 6th
year, dependent on the variety.

Peaches may be expected to come into bearing the 3rd year,
dependent on the variety.

Apricots may be expected to come into bearing the 4th year,
dependent on the variety.

Plums, Domestic, may be expected to come into bearing the 5th
year, dependent on the variety.

Plums, Japanese, may be expected to come into bearing the 3rd
year, dependent on the variety.

In each class there is some variation between the several
varieties.

DIE BACK CAUSED BY SOUR SAP.

This is a disease which we have noticed to be prevalent all over
the Colony, growers from time to time in different places calling
our attention to the same and asking its cause and cure. The
remarks below, by Leonard Coates of California, can be literally
applied by us, the disease showing itself in the same manner, and
ending in the same result. We have occasionally seen very
serious loss from this cause in this country, our springs here
being very uncertain, naturally giving such result.

" Early spring orchardists should not forget to examine their
cherry, prune, and plum trees for signs of " gumming " and other
diseases in the bark. Cherry trees will generally give evidence
of the ailment by the exuding of gum, although it frequently
happens that a fermentation of sap has been going on for some
time, thus decaying the cambium layer for a space of, it may be,
a foot or more before the evil is discovered. Sometimes a branch
is nearly if not quite circled, and unless the trees are carefully
watched they will suddenly die, because the bark is all dead at
some point, sufficient to prevent the flow of sap. It is only the
practised eye that can readily detect this disease unless the gum
shows on the outside. Let the trees, then, be closely watched at
this time, and for the next mouth or two, and an occasional
incision may be made with a knife to ascertain the state of the
bark. All gumming or discoloured spots should be cut out clean,

59

and the exposed wood, when dry, waxed over or shaded. Such
places should be covered with wax, but to do everything when it
should be done, and how it should be done in an orchard is not
always possible ; cut out the gum at all events, as that if done in
time will save the tree.

With the plum and prune this disease develops somewhat
different symptoms, aud is more difficult to control because less
apparent to the inexperienced grower, and many grown gray in
the service wonder why their trees die. A dark, " dead " appear-
ance of the bark, often forming a slight depression, and if the tree
be moderately vigorous a cracking of the bark, and also exudation
of gum, are all symptoms, which, either one or all, require prompt
treatment. This treatment is simply to cut out all dead or dis-
eased bark, which should be done cleanly and neatly, and wax or
paint the exposed wood.

If the tree is too far gone to be saved, it may be sawn off at or
below the ground, and grafted. Scions should be kept dormant
for such an emergency, so that it could be done as late as Septem-
ber. This disease is not of the root, which invariably remains
healthy until after the whole top is dead, and may continue still
to live, by throwing up suckers.

This very prevalent disease is often called u sour-sap," which
means even less than " malaria " in the human family, being
•capable of so wide an interpretation. It is not caused by wet
land, and has nothing to do with the root, but it is most probably
due to a sudden chilling or freezing of the sap on the most
exposed side in the spring, after a period of warm weather has
started growth. This causes a rupture of cells, decay of tissue,
fermentation of sap, and death. To prevent such a catastrophe,
keep the trees protected while young, from the time they are
planted by wrapping with burlap, or watch them every spring
from the first, and cut out any decayed or discoloured spot while
•small. It is commonly supposed that trees thus affected die very
suddenly. They appear to do so, it is true, one day being in
bloom, or in leaf, and in forty-eight hours, or less, dead. In
reality such death is lingering, the condition above described
•causing a gradual decay which does not terminate fatally until it
has spread all round the tree.

With the cherry the disease acts more rapidly than with the
prune or plum, and while in this case it may be a specific com-
plaint due to other causes, I am firmly convinced it is largely due
to climatic influences."

60

IMPORTANCE OF PLANTING TREES AND NOT
WAITING FOR RAIN.

We consider the above heading of sufficient importance to
orchardists throughout the country to warrant a separate para-
graph. Under our remarks on the " Initial Difficulties of
Establishing Orchards in South .Africa " we give directions as to
the importance of planting young trees during the natural
dormant period, and we give full directions for so doing (see
page 33. We again commend these instructions to your notice which
we feel sure if carried out will give you a successful orchard
with practically the loss of no trees. As an additional safeguard
under the condition of drought, after planting we would say
shelter the stem with reeds or grass or the branch of a tree or
something, also some grass spread on the ground round the tree
will tend to additionally retain the moisture. As planters we
prefer every time to plant our tree in a drought to letting it lie in
cold storage although we have had splendid results in the latter
manner.

The planting, however, in the proper dormant season is nearer
following nature.

THE CALIFORNIA PRUNE.

[PETIT D'AGEN.]

This variety .has been by far the most important introduction
to this country during recent years in commercial varieties of
fruit, and a short description of it shabits and utility will not be
out of place, and should prove of interest to those who intend
planting orchards for profit.

Introduced into the Santa Clara Valley of California from
France in 1856, it was not until about 1870 that this variety
began to claim public attention. It was in this year that the
well-known Bradley orchard (still in full bearing) was set out.
In a few years this commercial prune orchard yielded such
enormous profits, that it immediately led to extensive planting,
not only in the Santa Clara Valley, but over the whole of the
State of California, and extended even right north through the
States of Oregon and Washington, and cast and south-east
through Utah, Idaho, Arizona and Texas.

In a few years five million trees of this single variety were
planted in th ° State of California alone, and still planting went

61

on. The demand continued through each year of my stay in
that State, invariably exceeding the supply.

The rush into planting this variety is easily accounted for by
anyone who has been closely connected with prune growing and
handling. It is a healthy and strong grower, adapts itself on
the several roots it favours to practically all characters of soil ;
with proper attention will flourish without irrigation even on
dry soils ; we having ourselves seen fine prune orchards in
districts where there was only 22 inches of annual rainfall, and
wells had to be sunk 150 ft. to strike water.

Again, the trees naturally take a good shape, the " low head
system," explained page 17, being the system generally favoured
After the trees have come into bearing at 6 years of age, little
annual pruning is required. Previously to that our system
explained under the heading of " The Plum " is an excellent
one. The harvesting is a simpler operation than with any other
fruit we know, the plums not being picked by hand, but simply
shaken off, all those fruits not falling to the ground after a
fairly vigorous shaking are left for the next going over, as they
are not sufficiently ripe.

After being placed in boxes the plums are taken to the drying
ground, where they are immersed in a solution of lye, afterward
rinsed off in fresh water, then emptied into the drying trays :
then in California they are placed in the sun, and usually take
5 or 0 days to be thoroughly dried, when they are removed to
the sweating house, preparatory to being handed over to the
packers to be processed in the several ways they favour, prior
to being placed on the market.

During our itinery in California we have seen prune orchards
growing, and bearing well in every possible variety of soil and
under very many different climatic conditions, and we have
never known a single entire failure of crop. In the Delta lands
of Tulare County, we have seen nine-year-old trees carrying
over 1,000 Ibs. weight of fresh prunes, and whole orchards of
several thousand trees averaging 500 to the tree.

This, however, is quite exceptional. One may put down 100 Ibs.
to 200 Ibs. of fresh fruit per tree as an average crop in California.

One of the most valuable characteristics of this variety is its
•exceptional exemption from being blown off by winds. We
have in Africa made several most thorough tests, and it holds its
fruits against the strongest Cape South-easter in a way which
has surprised all observers : the fruit is carried close along the
main limbs and laterals, thus rendering it almost wind proof.

Single orchards containing several thousands of prune trees

are now standing in different parts of South Africa, and their

behaviour up to date, in some instances covering 4 and even 5
years, is satisfactory.

62

JAPANESE PLUMS.

[PRUNUS TRIFLORA.]

This important family of Plums, which has been dissseminated
all over the world the last few years, and has made a reputation
wherever introduced, deserves more than a mere nurseryman's
classification.

First apparently brought to the notice of the fruit-growing
world by an introduction to California in 1870 of a single
variety, which shortly passed into the lands of Mr. Kelsey..
after whom it was named by Messrs. Hammond & Co., who-
secured control of its propagation.

The merits of this variety were at once recognised, and large
planting took place as soon as trees were procurable. This led
to the introduction of other varieties, many through the medium
of Mr. Burbank, the well-known horticulturist, Santa Rosa,
and others.

These varieties have been disseminated mostly throughout
the States, and later through Australasia and Europe, making
their mark in each country.

The chief characteristics of this family are great productive-
ness, unusual precocity in bearing, being in this respect distinct
from the Domestica, which latter carries its fruit on the two-year-
old wood, whereas Triflora, like the Peach, bears on the one-year
wood, and usually in the second year. The tree will then appear
one mass of blossom. It is so in several parts of the Colony, and
will carry more fruit than it ought.

Again, they are particularly exempt from disease, although
Kelsey is somewhat troubled with shot hole fungus, and should
be sprayed with Bordeaux Mixture. They are also as a whole
remarkably long keepers, many varieties, such as Kelsey and
Burbank, can be picked green and will ripen and colour up well
en route.

Planters must not think that we are recommending the
Japanese type to the exclusion of other well-known and popular
sorts, but there are many districts of the Colony and Xatal where
the ordinary Domestica varieties will not bear or even grow.

All along the coast-lying districts from Port Elizabeth to-
Durban we are informed ordinary plums will not thrive. From
what we have personally seen, we think this Japanese class of
plums will supply the gap, as we have been particularly struck
with their abnormal fruitfulness in some of these districts, and
in two-year-old trees at that.

63

It has also been brought forcibly home to us that they need a
somewhat sheltered locality, as, the growth being more or less
willowy and the foliage somewhat delicate, the trees are liable to-
rn jury from the high winds.

In pruning, the trees of this variety must be cut down, as

directed for others, i.e., to 15 or 18 inches, after planting, and in

successive years long tops must be considerably shortened-in, or

the trees will soon become broken to pieces from the weight of
fruit.

In varieties we have no hesitation in placing Kelsey, Burbank
and Botan (Abundance) in the front rank.

On studying market reports from different parts of the world,
we find these varieties side by side with Domestica fetching very
high prices, and this last season have been shipped from Cali-
fornia to England, bringing top prices. It is for reasons such as
these that we commend them to the careful consideration of
planters.

We may say the trees planted by us in 1897 on our own farm
will bring us in 10s. per tree this season and we have over 1,000
of this age.

64

DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FRUIT TREES.

APPLES.

Ben Davis. — A popular and widely-distributed apple in America,
especially through South and South-west. Tree hardy,
free grower, abundant bearer, and late bloomer ; fruit
often of not the best quality, but excellent keeper ;
medium to large, skin yellowish, splashed red ; flesh
white, tender, moderately juicy, June to August.

Blenheim Orange Pippin.— An old and well-known apple of
English origin, suited for cooking and dessert. Large,
yellowish, becoming deep orange, stained and streaked
with red on the sunny side. Good shipper. April and
later. Late Bloomer.

Cellini. — An early cooking apple of English origin. Medium
to large size, deep yellow, streaked or mottled red ; flesh
white, juicy, tender, fresh and pleasant. Free grower
and excellent bearer. March.

•COX Orange Pippin — An English dessert apple of the first
quality, size medium, yellowish, shaded and streaked
with red, entirely the latter colour on the side exposed
to the sun. A free bearer. March and later.

Duchess of Oldenburg. — Fruit large, round, skin smooth,
greenish yellow on the shaded side, streaked with fine
bright red side next sun ; covered all over with russety
dots. Flesh yellowish white : firm, crisp and very
juicy ; pleasant, brisk and refreshing flavour. Excellent
early culinary or dessert apple of first quality. Ripens
early summer, and continues in use a month or more.
Free dwarfish, but hardy, and an excellent bearer. Early
bloomer.

Early Harvest. — One of the few American apples highly
approved of in England. Medium to large, pale yellow.
Tree moderate grower, free early bearer. Flesh white,
tender, juicy, crisp. An early dessert apple of great
excellence. January and February.

Emperor Alexander. — A cooking apple, showy, and of the
largest size. Skin greenish yellow streaked with red on
the shady, and orange streaked with red on the sunny
side. Flesh white, juicy, tender and slightly aromatic.
Strong and vigorous grower and good bearer. March to
May.

65

French Crab. — An English culinary apple, also suited for
dessert : highly esteemed in Australia ; principally
noteworthy for its excellent keeping qualities. Has
been known to keep 2 years under favourable conditions.
Tree hardy, free grower and excellent bearer. Fruit
medium to large, roundish. Skin dark green, strewed
with russety spots, and reddish on the side exposed to the
sun. Flesh greenish, juicy, sharp sub-acid. April and
later.

Gravenstein. — A German apple, in very good repute all over
the world. Tree very vigorous and productive, and an
early bearer. Fruit large, greenish yellow, at first
becoming bright-yellow, and beautifully streaked and
pencilled with red and orange. Flesh tender and crisp,
somewhat aromatic. Valuable for market and cooking.
Succeeding admirably wherever grown. One of the
best autumnal fruits. February — March.

Jonathan. — A beautiful American dessert apple, suited to
most soils, shoots slender, but a vigorous upright grower,
and very productive. Fruit of medium size, skin yellow,
with lively red stripes, deepening to brilliant red next
the sun. Flesh white, sometimes pinkish, tender and
juicy, with a mild vinous flavour. April — July.

King Of Pippins. — A well-known early English dessert apple,
highly approved of in Australia, though not generally
successfully grown in the United States. Skin greenish
yellow, mottled red and slightly russety. Flesh
yellowish, firm, juicy, rich vinous flavour. An excellent
shipper. February and March.

King" Of Tompkins County. — Large, handsome American
apple, popular in the export trade, increased planting
being recommended in Australia. Large, striped yellow
and red, tree vigorous and productive. Flesh yellowish,
rather coarse, juicy, with a decided aromatic, vinous
flavour. April to August.

Lady. — A most exquisite little dessert fruit, whose pretty size
and beautiful colour make it an universal favourite ; is
a great bearer and most profitable to the orchardist.
Should be shippt d in fancy packages like the Tangerine.
Fruit quite small, with a brilliant red cheek on a yellow
ground. Flesh white, crisp, tender, juicy, with a pleasant
flavour. Bears its fruit in bunches, which may be allowed
to hang quite late. Of the greatest antiquity, supposed
to have been brought to Rome by Appius Claudius.

Lord Wolseley. — A New Zealand apple of the greatest
excellence, suited for either dessert or cooking. Of

66

medium size, a moderate grower, and good cropper.
Behaves here most excellently wherever tried ; foliage
thick and dense. April and later. Late bloomer.

Monmouth Pippin, or Red Cheek Pippin. — Of American
origin, size large, pale yellow, blushed red with russety
spots. Free grower, and productive ; good shipper and
late keeper. Flesh juicy, fine, brisk sub-acid, aromatic.
May — August. Late bloomer.

Nickajack. — Fruit large, roundish, colour yellowish, striped
and splashed with two shades red. Flesh yellowish,
compact, moderately tender and juicy. A well-known
American variety, ripening late and keeping well. The
value of this variety is chiefly on account of its extreme
hardiness and productiveness. April — September.

Nonpareil Russet.— Fruit small, irregularly formed, skin
green covered with large splashes of russet, streaked with
silver scales. Flesh greenish, crisp, juicy with a pleasant
aroma. An excellent dessert apple of the first quality.
April — September.

Northern Spy. — A very popular American dessert apple of the
best quality. Tree a vigorous grower, and does not
come early into bearing. Fruit large, greenish yellow,
with a yellow red cheek next the sun. Flesh white,
tender, juicy, brisk sub-acid, a four months keeper.
Blight proof. May — September. Late bloomer.

Ohenimuri. — A New Zealand dessert apple of great excellence,
fetching the highest price in Covent Garden. A
moderate grower, and early bearer, Flattened, skin
bright yellow, slightly clouded brown ; an excellent
keeper. Maintains its reputation here. April —
September.

PeasgOOd Nonsuch. — Fruit large, roundish, somewhat oblate
and very handsome. Skin yellow, overspread on sunny
side with red, streaked crimson. Flesh yellowish,
tender, very juicy, agreeable acid flavour. Fine culinary
or dessert apple. Autumn ; average keeping.

Prince Bismarck. — Fruit large and handsome ; skin yellow,
sprinkled all over with broken streaks of red, especially
on the sunny side. This is a New Zealand variety.
Flesh white, tender, juicy, slightly acid. April — July.

Red Astrachan. — Of Russian origin, the standard early apple
in California. Vigorous grower ; free bearer. Has been
shipped successfully to England from the Cape, but we
only recommend it for Colonial markets. Of good size,

67

almost entirely red, a little yellowish on the shady side.
Highly esteemed in its season. Must not be allowed to
hang after ripening. Sells on its appearance. January
to February. Early bloomer.

du Canada. — A large and handsome culinary and
dessert apple. Skin greenish yellow, brownish on sunny
side, covered with numerous brown russety dots. Highly
esteemed in Australia. Well adapted to dwarf culture.
May — August.

Hhode Island Greening".— A large and widely-popular
American dessert apple. Tree strong, vigorous, spread-
ing grower ; very productive. Fruit large, roundish,
dark green, becoming yellow when ripe. Flesh yellow,
fine grained, and containing a lot of rich aromatic juice.
May — July.

Ribston Pippin. — Needs no recommendation, well-known the
world over ; favourite Tasmanian variety, and good for
the export trade. Needs a dry and well-drained soil.
April till September.

Rome Beauty — An American early-winter dessert apple of
great excellence, held in hign esteem throughout the
United States, and also in Australia, where it is particu-
]arly favoured by exporters. A moderate grower and
late bloomer. Fruit large roundish, yellow, shaded and
striped with bright red, and sprinkled with light dots.
Flesh yellow, tender, juicy, and sub-acid. April — June,
bears very young. Late bloomer.

Scarlet Nonpareil. — An excellent English dessert apple
favourably known in Australia. Tree hardy, good
grower, but slender ; bears well. Fruit medium, round,
regularly formed. Skin yellow streaked, red on the
sunny side. Flesh yellowish white, firm, juicy, sweet.
May — July.

Stone Pippin. — An English apple, highly esteemed by Austra-
lian growers. Tree vigorous, hardy, foliage dense : an
abundant bearer. Fruit medium, oblong, green, becom-
ing yellow. Flesh very firm, almost -sweet. April to
September.

Sturmer Pippin. — A dessert apple well-known in the Austra-
lian export trade. Of English origin. Yellow with
bronze crimson cheek ; of medium size ; excellent
bearer. May — August.

.Syke House Russet. — Fruit small and almost round ; skin
yellow, entirely covered with brown russet. Flesh

68

yellow, firm, crisp, juicy, rich and sugary. Very
excellent dessert apple that maintains its reputation
here. May — October.

Versfeld's (Warner's King"). — A popular late apple in the
district of Constantia, always fetching good prices in
the market. Grown by Mr. Yersfeld, of " Classenbosch.'r
A free grower and early bearer, and enjoys practically
immunity from Aphis Blight. Fruit large/ greenish
yellow, freely streaked with red, almost entirely red on
the sunny side. May — September. (Fruit has been
incorrectly named " Warner's King " when sent to-
England for identification.)

Warner's King1. — A large English culinary apple of the best
quality. Tree hardy, free, and vigorous grower, and
good bearer. Skin grass green, changing to yellow
when near ripening, with dots and patches of russet..
April to July. Late bloomer.

White Winter Pearmain. — Probably of American origin ;:
highly esteemed in the Western States. Tree strong
and healthy grower, and regular bearer. Fruit medium
to large. Skin pale yellow, with a warm cheek, sprinkled
with minute russet y dots. Flesh yellowish, crisp, juicy,,
pleasant sub-acid. June — August.

Wine Sap. — A popular apple in Western America. Fruit
medium to large. Skin dark red, yellow ground
appearing on the shady side. An irregular grower, but
abundant bearer. Not particularly recommended for
table use, but a very fine cider fruit. Hangs long on«
tree. May to August.

Worcester Pearmain. — A handsome early English kitchen
and dessert apple, of fine appearance. A free bearer..
Skin yellow, almost completely covered with red. Flesh
tender, crisp, juicy, sweet, with a pleasant flavour..
February to March.

Yellow Bellflower. — A large, handsome and excellent table
apple of American origin. Tree moderate grower and
regular bearer. Fruit large, oblong, tapering towards-
the eye. Skin smooth, pale lemon yellow. Flesh
tender and crisp before ripe, considerably acid. May
to July.

Yellow Newton Pippin. — One of the most valuable of
American apples, largely figuring in the export trade
from that country. Large roundish, more or less
flattened, with brownish-red cheek. Flesh firm, rich,
juicy, with very rich, high flavour. Hardy and an*

69

excellent bearer. Quite distinct from, and better than,
the Green Newtown Pippin. A good keeper ; does not
maintain its high reputation here. June to September.

PEARS.

Bergamotte Crassane. — Fruit medium zize, roundish, flat-
tened. Skin greenish yellow, marked all over with
grey russet. Flesh white, buttery, melting, with a fine
perfume. Is a good bearer. Must be pruned long.

Buerre BOSC. — Large, true pyriform, of good quality. Skin
yellow, largely splashed with russet. Flesh white, fine,
melting, buttery. A free grower and prolific bearer ; a
dessert pear of good quality that does well in this
country. March and later.

Buerre Clairgeau. — A handsome, showy pear of the largest
size. Skin fine lemon colour, tinged red on the sunny
side. Flesh white, juicy, sweet, slightly coarse. A free
grower and very productive. Is not much favoured in
Covent Garden. March and later.

Beurre Capianmont. — Fruit medium size, obtuse pyriform.
Skin pale yellow, almost covered with cinnamon coloured
dots. A dessert pear of good quality ; tree hardy,
vigorous, and a very abundant bearer ; one of the
favourite pears throughout Australasia. Bears abun-
dantly, and young. Latest.

Buerre Diel, or Magnifique. — A large and handsome dessert
pear, of Belgian origin. Skin yellow, deepening marble,
with russety dots. Flesh yellowish white, sweet and
delicious. Tree a particularly free grower. This uear
is grown in several districts of Cape Colony as Buerre
Magnifique, and is highly esteemed. Good shipper.
March and later.

Buerre Hardy. — Fruit large, handsome, strikingly even in
contour. Skin shiny yellow, covered with russety spots.
Flesh white, sweet, melting, and perfumed. It is worthy
of note that this pear is very acceptable in Coveiit
Garden, fetching the highest price of any variety shipped
from California last year. One of the very best. March
and later.

Beurre Superfln. — Fruit above medium height, three inches
wide and a little more high, obovate, somewhat uneven
on the surface. Skin greenish yellow, considerably

70

covered with patches of russet, stalk over an inch long.
Flesh yellowish white, fine grained, buttery, and
melting. A very fine pear indeed. March and later.

Bon Chretien.— (Williams.) The Bartlett of United States.
A prime favourite all the wrorld over, unsurpassed in its
season as a market fruit, and has no competitor for
canning purposes. Has been most successfully shipped
to London from the Cape. It is worthy of note that
30,000 cases of this one variety are sold in Co vent
Garden daily during its French season. A free bearer,
and upright grower. Ripens up well after picking, and
will be mealy and unpalatable if allowed to ripen on tbe
tree. Fruit large, pyriform, pale green, changing to
yellow when ripe, and reddish on sunny side. Flesh
white, fine-grained, buttery, melting, delicious flavour,
and powerful musky aroma. Bears young. February.

Clapp's Favourite. — A large early pear, resembling Williams'
Bon Chretien, but ripens about one week earlier than
the latter. Skin pale yellow, with brown dots. Flesh
melting, buttery, juicy, with sweet vinous flavour.
Tree very hardy and productive, and likely to succeed
where others fail.

December. — The well-known Cape Christmas Pear. Tree a

vigorous and upright grower, an excellent and regular

bearer. Fruit small and of good flavour. The earliest
known pear, ripe during December.

Doyenne du Cornice.— Large, varying, roundish, pyriform.
Skin yellow, covered with specks and patches of brown
russet, particularly round the stalk. Flesh very tender,,
buttery, melting, juicy, and rich. A most delicious
dessert pear. Tree a healthy grower and free bearer.
Stalk ^ inch to 1 inch long. Good for shipping. March
and later.

Duchesse D'Angrouleme. — Fruit large to very large, roundish*
obdurate, very uneven in outline. Skin pale yellow?
covered with veins of pale brown russet ; sometimes
takes a brownish tint. Stalk an inch long, and stout.
Flesh white, buttery, melting, delicious. A dessert pear
of great excellence, and an excellent shipper. Tree of
slender growth, one of the best on quince. April.

Easter Buerre. — A standaid late variety, all over the world, of
large size and excellent quality. Fruit roundish, flaty
sometimes almost square. Skin yellowish green, freely
sprinkled with russety dots. Flesh white, firm, grained,
very buttery, melting, delicious. Tree a moderate
grower, free bearer. Very good for export. Will keep
several months. May and later.

Fertility. — A most prolific variety, raised by Mr. Rivers ; of
medium size. Flesh half melting, juicy and sweet, with
perfumed flavour. Stalk J inch to an inch, stout. A
most profitable orchard variety, and tremendous grower.
One of the most successful in New Zealand. Maintains
its reputation here. Bears young. March and later.

Forelle, or Trout Pear. — The most beautiful of all pears, of
secondary quality only in Europe, but in California it
improves in quality, and takes brilliant colour, which
makes it unsurpassed as a showy table fruit. Ships
well. Has been sent from California to England by
myself, and eaten end of February, though picked in
October. Must become popular in Oovent Garden.
Fruit medium size, oblong, obdurate. Skin yellow,
brilliant red on sunny side, covered with reddish dots
resembling trout. Flesh white, delicate, melting, sugary
and vinous flavour. Hardy and vigorous grower. May
—July.

Gansel's Bergamotte. — Fruit medium-sized, roundish, inclined
to obovate. Skin greenish yellow on shaded side and
reddish -brown next sun, the whole strewed with russety
dots and speeks. Flesh white, buttery, melting, but
gritty ; very juicy, rich, sugary and aromatic, and strong
musky flavour. A dessert pear of highest merit ; mid-
autumn. Shy bearer ; needs fertilizing from adjacent
sorts.

GlOUt MorQeau. — A well-known and popular late shipping
pear. Fruit above medium size. Skin pale greenish
yellow, covered with greenish grey dots. Flesh white,
tender, sugary and buttery ; a very good dessert pear,
well-known in the California shipping trade, and main-
tains its reputation here. May — July.

Idaho. — A new pear hailing from Oregon, which is being exten-
sively planted. Of the largest size. Colour greenish
yellow, with russety spots ; form roundish ; of good
flavour, rich, sprightly, vinous. Core very small and
without seeds. Should be popular, April and later.

Jargonelle Pear. — Fruit medium and pyriform ; skin smooth
and greenish-yellow, tinged dark brownish red next sun.
Flesh yellowish white, tender, melting and juicy ; rich
vinous flavour and slight musky aroma. Tree healthy
and vigorous. A well-known early dessert pear ; ripens
shortly after December pear, and should be picked when
green and ripen off the tree.

Josephine de Malines. — A late dessert pear of first rate quality
and of good size. Skin yellowish green, reddish on

72

sunny side. Flesh yellow, with a tinge of red, melting,
sugary, juicy, with a fine aroma ; straggling in its
growth, hardy and a good bearer. June — September.

Keiffer Hybrid. — A very hardy American pear, most exten-
sively grown, particularly through the Southern States,
where thousands of acres of the variety alone are planted
out. A vigorous grower, and free from blight. Fruit of
large size, rich colour and good quality ; excellent for
canning. Should be house-ripened. April and later.

Le Conte. — Large, pyriform. Skin yellow. Of medium quality
only, but tree remarkably vigorous, healthy and prolific.
Very early ; should be much before Bon Chretien.

Louise Bonne de Jersey. — A very excellent pear, free grower
and abundant bearer, carrying the fruit in clusters.
Fruit medium large, pyriform ; skin yellow on the shady
side, reddish next the sun. Flesh white, juicy and melt-
ing, with perfumed flavour. Good shipper. March.

Magnate. — Fruit large, even and symmetrical in outline. Skin
covered with dark-brown russet, which is strewn with
large russet freckles. Flesh yellow, tender, melting,
rather gritty at core ; richly flavoured, somewhat of a
rose-water perfume. Strong and free grower. Autumn.

Pitmaston Duchesse. — Fruit very large and handsome, pyra-
midal. Skin smooth and fine pale lemon colour, covered
with patches delicate cinnamon-coloured russet. Flesh
very tender and melting ; juicy, exceedingly rich,
sprightly, vinous flavour and delicate perfume. A hand-
some pear, finest quality. Autumn.

President Albrecht. — This fine pear (name unknown), re-
christened by me, by kind permission of Mr. Albrecht
(Late President Constaatia Fruit Growers' Association),
on w^hose farm the original tree stands, I have considered
quite worth dissemination on its merits. Mr. Albrecht
says of it : Is an enormous bearer, sometimes 5 to 7
fruits in a cluster, and branches have to be propped
every year to prevent breaking of the tree ; regular
cropper. Fruit large to very large, a true pyriform ;
skin green changing to yellow ; a delicate brownish red
on the sun side. Fine, grand, buttery, melting, delici-
ous ; should be picked middle March and stored, when
it ripens up gradually, developing best flavour. Tree
healthy, vigorous, naturally taking good shape. March.

Souvenir du Congress. — A large red handsome early pear,
resembling Bon Chretien. Skin freely covered with
cinnamon coloured russet, showing patches of the yellow

73

ground, streaks of crimson, and a warm glow of russet on
the sunny side. Stalk an inch or more long, and very
stout. Flesh yellowish white, tender, juicy, melting.
An excellent pear, highly esteemed m Europe and
America. February.

Souvenir De Tongres (or Durondeau). — Fruit medium-
sized to large, handsome and regularly formed ; small at
stalk end. Skin, when fully ripe, yellow, inclined to
crimson a little on one side. Flesh tender, sweet, juicy
and melting ; slightly wanting in flavour, but tree is
particularly strong and healthy grower and heavy bearer.
Ripens early mid-season ; will keep two or three weeks
if picked before ripe.

~Vicar Of Winkfield. — Fruit very large ; pyriform, skin smooth,
greenish yellow with a faint tinge of red on the side
next to the sun. Flesh white, fine grained, half melting,
juicy sweet. A large pear suitable for stewing ; does well
in Australia.

White Doyenne — An old French variety, highly esteemed
throughout the United States. Have been advised will
ship to England without refrigeration. Size medium,
obdurate ; skin, smooth, pale yellow, sprinkled with
small dots, often a red cheek. Flesh white, fine grained,
buttery, melting and delicious. Good for export. April
and later.

"Winter NeliS — A well-known standard late variety. Tree
characterised by a particularly slender growth. Fruit
medium size, rounded ; skin yellowish, covered with
very numerous russety spots, and patches of brown
russet. Stalk from 1 in. to H in. long, curved. Flesh
yellowish, finely grained, buttery, vinous, with a fine
aroma. A splendid late variety which suits the frostless
districts of the Colony admirably, the fruit attaining a
size not dreamt of in Europe. Splendid for «hipping,
and popular in London. April — August.

PEACHES.

FREESTONES.

Red May. — A Calif ornian Early of especial merit,
sent to rne by Government Pomologist of New Zealand,
who said that it should ripen here in time to ship Home
for Christmas Market. Size medium to large, white
skin with red cheek. Flesh greenish white, melting.,
juicy, firm, and delicious. Good shipper. Stone
partially free, a standard Early.

74

Crimson Galande. — Fruit large, roundish. Skin almost en-
tirely covered with very dark crimson, nearly black.
Flesh very tender and melting, very much stained with
red at the stone, from which it separates freely. A
very excellent peach. Tree a free grower. Mid-season

Dr. Hogg". — A delicious and well-known English peach, of great
merit. Medium to large size ; skin thin but tough ;
yellow, dotted with crimson, and red cheek. Flesh
yellowish white, melting, rich and delicious, red at the
stone, from which it parts freely. A good shipper.
Maintains its reputation here. Mid -season.

Early Alexander. — Fruit greenish white, nearly covered with
red. Flesh firm, juicy ; partially free stone. Ships
well, maintains its reputation here. A standard Early.

Early Rivers. — An early English peach, highly esteemed in
Australia, and maintains its reputation here. Fruit
large, roundish, skin pale yellow, blush on the sunny
side. Flesh pale to the stone, tender, juicy, rich. Too
tender for shipment.

Early Crawford. — A peach of New Jersey origin, planted more
than any other variety in California. Very large. Skin
yellow, with red cheek,. Flesh yellow, rich and excel-
lent. A perfect freestone. Healthy and productive,
well adapted for shipping and for canning ; needs no-
recommendation, yellow7 Crawford peaches being kept
in stock by the best grocers in every country. Splendid
for drying. Mid-season.

Elberta. — Fruit large, yellow with red cheek ; freestone. Flesh
yellowish, highly flavoured and juicy. A mid-season
variety, free growing and healthy ; of very great repute in
America. It is stated of this variety that Mr. J. H. Hale,,
the noted authority on the peach, has planted 60,000
trees. Has done well here when tested ; one of our best,

Foster. — An Eastern American peach, widely grown and much
esteemed in California. Very large. Colour deep
orange red on sunny side. Flesh yellow, very rich and
juicy. Ripens a week before Early Crawford. Very
good for drying, and a good shipper. Mid-season.

Gladstone. — Fruit very large, roundish and depressed at crown.
Skin pale, mottled red cheek. Flesh white, very tender,,
melting, juicy, and freely separating from the stone.
Very free grower. A very late peach of Mr. Rivers'"
raising. Maintains its reputation here. Late.

75

Grosse Mignonne. — Fruit large, round, well shaped, white
fleshed, with a beautiful colour on the sun side. Can
be recommended with confidence for local market or
export. Mid-season.

High's Early Canada. — An early American freestone. Skin
whitish yellow, marbled with red on the sunny side.
Flesh white, juicy, melting ; medium size ; should ripen
first week in December.

Late Crawford.— Of similar origin to Early Crawford. Very
large, roundish, yellow, with dark red cheek. Flesh
yellow ; flavour rich and excellent. Shipping and
drying.

Mary's Choice. — An American variety, popular in California,,
large yellow, with a red cheek resembling an Early
Crawford, but ripening a little later. Suited for ship-
ping and. canning, and excellent for drying. Is doing
very well where fruited here. Mid-season.

Muir. — A Californian seedling of great excellence, suited for
shipping, canning and drying, but excelling in the latter
field, where it yields a heavier percentage of dried fruit
to fresh of any known variety, viz. : 1 Ib. of dried fruit
to less than 51bs. of fresh. If grown on rich soil the
fruit will be large to very large. Flesh yellow, very
dense, and sweet. A free bearer. A perfect freestone.
Mid-season.

Newhall. — A Californian, very large ; skin yellow, deep red
cheek. Flesh yellow, juicy, rich vinous flavour. Ripens
one week ahead of late Crawford. Tree healthy and
vigorous. Maintains its reputation here. Latish.

Royal George. — An old English variety of the greatest excel-
lence. Fruit large, round. Skin very pale, speckled
with red in the shade, marbled with deeper red on the
sunny side. Flesh pale yellowish- white, red at the stone,
very juicy, rich, delicious, and high flavoured. Excellent
for shipping. Maintains its reputation in this country.
Mid-season.

Salway. — An English variety, highly esteemed in California,
where it is the standard late peach. Fruit large,
roundish ; skin yellow, rich crimson cheek. Flesh deep
yellow, red at the stone. Adapted for both shipping
and drying. Very late. Good when tne country is free
from maggots.

Sea Eagle.— A large greeny white peach, taking fair colour
and distinctly pointed in shape ; medium late ; of indiff-
erent quality, so far as I have tested the fruit here.
Late.

76

Waterloo. — Fruit above medium size, roundish. Skin with
bright red cheek, mottled, darker red side next sun.
Flesh pale, with greenish tinge where shaded. Adhering
slightly to stone. Melting, juicy and rich flavoured ;
very early, ripens same time as ^arly Alexander.

CLINGSTONES.

Georges Late Cling". — Large, white, flesh, yellowish green -
with highly coloured bright red cheek. A good ship,
per and heavy bearer. Maintains its reputation here,
Middle March.

Lemon Cling". — Large, oblong, having a pronounced lemon
shaped point. Skin clear yellow. Flesh firm, yellow,
and full flavoured. The best canning peach. Main-
tains its reputation here. Mid-season.

Sellers' Golden Cling".— Very large and handsome, yellow
skin, taking red to bright, red on the sunny side. Flesh
yellow, firm and sweet and full flavoured. A splendid
canning peach, as a market fruit will sell on its size and
appearance. Late, mid-season.

NECTARINES.

Lord Napier. — An early Nectarine of large size. Skin pale
cream, mottled and streaked with red and handsome ,red
cheek. Flesh white, melting, tender, juicy. One of the
earliest and best of Nectarines.

^Rivers' Orang*e. — A very well-known, popular, English variety.
Skin orange red next the sun. Highly flavoured.
A great favourite in the English market. We may here
state that Nectarines are very popular in Covent Garden,
as the fruit its highly appreciated by the English palate ;
also they have been found to ship better than the peach.

Stanwick. — Fruit large, roundish, oval. Skin lively green

< cveron . where shaded, purple red where exposed to sun. Flesh

white, melting, rich, sugary, and most delicious.

Victoria. — Fruit large, roundish, oval. Skin pale green and
purplish red on the sunny side. Flesh white, melting,
rich, juicy, delicious. Very excellent variety. February.

APRICOTS.

Blenheim. — An English variety, in good repute wherever
grown. Fruit of good size. Tree a vigorous growery
with abundant thick foliage, and a steady, regular
bearer. I have worked over thousands of bearing-age
apricot trees in California, which proved unsatisfactory
bearers, to this variety, which is both suitable for
canning or drying. Has also proved one of the best in
Australia, as a regularly-bearing variety, yielding a
superior dried product. The bearing habits of this
variety is fully maintained in Africa, both East and
West.

Cape Early. — This is propagated from selected trees of the
well-known Western Province variety, and it needs no
recommendation, fetching — always being first in the
market — a most excellent price.

Early Newcastle. — A very early variety, free grower and
good bearer. The fruit is of small size, and is only of
value for its earliness. It pays well, however, in an
early situation.

Hemskirke. — A valuable English variety, popular in California..
A free grower, but shy bearer. Fruit is splendidly
adapted for shipping, also for canning and drying. Tree
a vigorous grower, with handsome and dense foliage. It
somewhat resembles Moorpark.

Moorpark. — The best and largest of all apricots when a crop
can be secured. Unsurpassed for canning, but cannot be
strongly recommended for commercial plantations, as it
has been widely discarded owing to its uncertain bearing.
Should be tried undoubtedly.

Royal. — This is a highly esteemed fruit of French origin, and
is maintaining its reputation wherever grown. It is one
of the most widely popular apricots in America, being
a steady and abundant bearer, and healthy and vigorous
grower ; the fruit hanging well on the tree, foliage per-
haps not so dense as the Blenheim. The fruit yields a
first-class canned or dried product. Mildura speaks very
highly of it in every respect. This variety has thoroughly
maintained its reputation here, wherever planted, so far
as we know.

78

PLUMS.

^Belgian Purple. — Fruit medium size, roundish. Skin deep
purple, covered with blue bloom. Flesh greenish, juicy,
sweet. A valuable cooking plum. March.

Clyman. — A standard early plum of Californian origin, largely
shipped to the Eastern States, where it fetches good
prices. Mottled, reddish purple, blue bloom ; free
stone ; flesh firm, dry and sweet. Ripens with the Cape
Ked Cherry Plum. Bears heavily in some situations
here.

Coe's Golden Drop. — Fruit very large, being generally about
2^ inches long and 2 inches in diameter, oval. Flesh
yellowish red, sugary and delicious, one of the most
delicious dessert plums and a good shipper.

Czar. — Fruit large, oval, roundish. Skin dull red to quite black
when well ripened, covered with blue bloom. Flesh
tender, sweet, juicy, separating freely from the stone.
A very valuable cooking plum. Tree a free grower and
abundant bearer. January — February.

Damask. — (Constantia.) A handsome, oval, purple plum of the
largest size, covered with blue bloom. Flesh yellowish,
juicy, sweet, delicious. Has a great local reputation,
last year fetching 6s. a hundred on the Cape Town
market. A free grower and good bearer.

Diamond. — English. Branches long. Fruit of the largest size.
Skin black, covered with a blue bloom. Flesh deep
yellow, coarse-grained. Free stone. A cooking plum
of better quality in this country than at home. A
heavy cropper. February.

Goliith.. — Fruit very large, oblong. Skin deep reddish purple,
paler on shady side, covered with blue bloom. Flesh
yellow, juicy, adheres to stone. A fine showy plum,
suitable for dessert, and an excellent culinary fruit.
February and later.

Greengage. — It is hardly necessary to describe this plum, of
good repute in every country.

Imperial Gage. — Very large. Flesh slightly yellowish, colour
bright yellow. Highly recommended by Mr. Van der
Byl, of Constantia, who always gets highest price for
this variety and finds it suited to every soil. Free stone.

79

Jefferson. — Fruit large, oval. Skin greenish yellow, becoming
a rich golden yellow with red on the sunny side, Flesh
yellow, firm, juicy, rich, delicious. A splendid American
dessert plum, and a good shipper. February — March.

Kirk's. — Fruit above medium size, round. Skin dark purple,
with a few deep yellow spots, and covered with blue
bloom. Flesh greenish yellow, fine, juicy, richly
flavoured. Separates freely the stone. A splendid
dessert fruit, and a good shipper, hardy and vigorous,
and an abundant bearer. February and March.

Large Black Imperial.--Fruit large. Skin very dark purple,
or rather deep crimson, paler where shaded. Flesh
yellow, juicy, firm and sweet. A fine dessert fruit and
cooking plum. Tree a very healthy and vigorous grower
of its class. March.

Peach Plum. — Fruit very large, roundish, brownish red, coarse-
grained but juicy, pleasant flavour. A well-known Cali-
fornia early shipping plum. January.

Pond's Seedling1. — A very valuable English variety, highly
esteemed and very extensively shipped from California
under the name of Gros Prune, very popular in the
Eastern States. Fruit very large, oval. Skin from dark
red, thickly strewed with grey dots, covered with bluish
bloom. Flesh yellowish, juicy, briskly flavoured,
adhering to the stone. A beautiful plum. February
and March.

Reid's Late Gem. — A valuable new late plum from New
Zealand, forwarded to me by Government Pomologist,
who strongly recommended it. Very late and moderate
grower. Bears heavily here and can be recommended.

Rivers' Early Prolific. — Purple, oval, medium size, juicy,
and good, free stone. A free grower, healthy, and an
enormous bearer. Maintains its reputation where fruited
here. Will ripen January and February. One of the
best cooking plums.

Rivers' Late Prolific. — A seedling of Early Prolific, with the
same characteristics, but ripens three weeks later.

Tragedy. — A standard early shipping plum of Calif ornian
origin. Very popular in the Eastern States. Should
ripen here before Cherry Plum season is over. Medium
to large. Skin purple. Flesh yellowish green, very
rich and sweet. Perfect free stone. Behaviour here
as to growth excellent, bearing qualities not so certain.

80

Victoria. — A well-known and very popular English plum.
Strong grower and productive. Large, roundish, ova.
Light yellow, shaded with lilac and purple. Flesh
golden yellow. Worthless along the coast. February.

Washington. — A very excellent American plum. Fruit large,,
roundish, oval. Skin dull yellow, mottled and clouded
green ; when fully ripe, a dead yellow, mottled with red
spots, covered with pale grey bloom. Flesh yellow,,
firm, rich, sugary, and a luscious flavour. One of the
best plums. Tree hardy, free grower, and abundant
bearer. Has been successfully shipped from California
to England. February — March.

"White Magnum Bonum, or Yellow Egg. — Fruit of the

largest size, oval, soft. Skin very thick, adhering to the
flesh ; deep yellow, covered with white bloom. A
valuable cooking and dessert plum. A first-rate shipper.
Free, healthy, vigorous, and a good bearer.

Damsons. — A selection of the best sorts, suitable for jam-
making only, including Bullace, Cluster, Bradley 's Kingr
Kentish Bush, Trogmore.

JAPANESE AND ORIENTAL PLUMS.

Abundance. — (Yellow fleshed Botan.) Medium in size (large
when thinned), varying in shape from round to pointed.
Colour rich yellow, splashed and dotted red on the
sunny side ; in some cases almost completely coloured
red. Flesh deep yellow, juicy, sweet, and of good
quality. A strong growing upright tree, and free bear-
ing, as its name implies, and highly popular in the
United States. Early mid-season. Two weeks ahead of
Burbank in ripening. An early bloomer.

Burbank — A very excellent variety, and highly popular.
Fruit nearly round ?nd clear cherry red, with a lilac
bloom. Flesh deep yellow, very sweet, with a peculiar
and most agreeable flavour. Tree vigorous and an
enormous cropper. Excellent for shipping. Mid-season.
Can be with confidence recommended. Doing excel-
lently where tried here. A late bloomer.

81

"Kelsey. — The latest of all the Japs, and the largest. Fruit
heart shaped. Colour rich yellow, nearly overspread
with red, and a lovely bloom. Flesh firm, very rich,
and of excellent quality. Tree a free grower, but not
stocky. Long willowy shoots. Excellent shipper.
Widely tested here, and has given uniform satisfaction,
its fruit having been frequently exhibited in public.
An early bloomer.

Ogon Magate. — Large, round, golden yellow. Flesh yellow,
firm, with a peculiar sweetness. Tree a free grower,
and good bearer. Early. December and January.

Pissardii. — A decorative tree of great beauty. Foliage red to
copper colour, carrying a crop of small but palatable
fruit. Should be scattered through every shrubbery for
effect, but is not recommended for orchard planting.

SatSUHia. — (Blood Plum.) Fruit of large size, and nearly
round. Skin dark red with a red bloom. Flesh dark
purplish red. Stone very small and pointed. An excel-
lent shipping plum, and the tree a free and hardy grower
and great cropper, as indeed are all the Japanese
varieties.

Shiro Simomo. — Large, bright yellow, of the Greengage type.
Tree healthy, and a vigorous grower and heavy bearer.
Very excellent and satisfactory in every respect.
February.

Simon. — A very excellent early-shipping plum of Chinese
origin. Tree an upright grower, with a profusion of
long willowy shoots, and leaves quite distinct. The
fruit differs from every other plum. Tomato shaped.
Colour cinnamon red. The flesh is firm, rich, sweet,
and delicious, pineapple mingled with banana flavour.
A very popular table fruit, and a splendid shipping
fruit, always fetching the best prices. Has been sent
successfully from California to England. December to
January. An uncertain bearer in the Western Provinces
in Africa.

PRUNES.

California D'Agen.- -Described, page 60.

Golden. — Originated in Oregon, and described, by Seth
Llwelling, its introducer, as follows : — Larger than
Italian ; light golden colour. Exquisite flavour ; dries
beautifully, and when dried, 24 prunes weigh one
pound. A beautiful grower, with heavy dark-green
foliage. An abundant bearer, and one of the best
canning fruits known. Easily peeled, and separates
readily from the stone, which is quite small for the size
of the fruit. Uncertain along the coast.

Robe de Sergent. — Fruit oval. Skin deep purple, nearly
black. Tree a good grower, but not a very heavy
bearer. Fruit a bit larger than D'Ageu.

CHERRIES.

Black Tartarian.— Fruit of the largest size, and bright
purplish black, juicy and sweet. Tree a very vigorous
grower and prolific bearer. The standard black cherry
of California. Ships very well. None of these cherries
so far as we know have been tasted commercially here.

Early Rivers. — An excellent early black cherry, nearly an
inch in diameter : stem very small. An excellent bearer.
Well worthy of a trial.

Kentish. — Fruit medium size, round, red, changing to purple
if allowed to hang. The best cooking cherry. A free
grower and abundant bearer.

May Duke. — An old and standard variety. A dark red colour.
Flesh juicy, rich and sweet. Early.

Napoleon Biggareau. — A splendid cherry of the largest size.
Pale yellow, amber in the shade, beautifully marked
with red, and a bright red cheek. Flesh firm, juicy r
sweet. A free grower and abundant bearer. A splendid
fruit for canning, and ships well.

MISCELLANEOUS FEUITS.

FIGS, QUINCES, SOFT-SHELL ALMONDS,
JAPANESE WALNUTS, &c.

84

CITRUS FRUITS.

Considerable attention has been devoted of late years to the
development of the orange and lemon industry in the Colony and
in the Transvaal, and we consider that this spirit of enterprize is
being directed into a proper channel, as there is undoubtedly
room for very many more orange and lemon orchards than
we at present have. The development of orange orchard planting
in the West began in 1892, in which year it was recognised that
the days of the Australian bug were numbered, thanks to the
energy of the two ladybirds : the Yedalia, which was imported
from California in the latter end of 1891 by the Government, and
also the Rodolia, which as far as we know is indigenous to this
country and possibly a South African species. It has generally
been claimed that the credit was almost entirely due to the work
of the imported Vedalia ; we however differ in this, our idea being
that although the Vedalia was the more useful insect of the two,
being a greater glutton, our local friend had already got the bug
under, throughout the Colony, before the Vedalia had established
himself sufficiently to warrant his being turned out among the
bugs from the specially constructed houses which Mr. C. D. Rudd
had built for their accommodation. In the Eastern Province we
•cannot but think that the ravages of this pest were not nearly as
severe as in the West. In our Province hardly an orange tree
but was so badly affected, and such a beastly sight that it was cut
down either just above the ground or at three to six feet above,
and very many thousands of orange trees of above fifty years of
age, and standing like forest trees, were grubbed out and burned.
We consider the reason that the West suffered worse being that
the Rodolia made its appearance in the East, perhaps had always
been there, and in those parts was in sufficient force to prevent
the entire destruction of the tree as happened here.

We may here state that the Australian bug (Icerya Purchasi)
has been one of the most terrible pests that have affected vegeta-
ble life, and has been known all over the world. In the latter 80's
and early 90's the State of California was ravaged by this pest, and
the growers were threatened with total ruin, which would have
practically been a collapse of the southern part of the State of
California. The State Board of Horticulture however grappled with
the question, and sent one of their Entomologists to Australia to
discover if possible a parasite ; this was in a short time successfully
done, with the same little friend that California gave us a few years
later, to wit, the Vedalia Cardinalis.

85

OLD ORCHARDS-

Mr, Liebbrandt (Keeper of the Archives) states that the
Citrus family were introduced by the Dutch East Indian
Company mainly from Sr. Helena, where they had been
planted very many years before by the Portuguese, and
doubtless were also obtained from India and the East, as the
ships of the company were trading throughout the Eastern seas,
and seeing the attention the company were bestowing on Agricul-
tural Development every step would doubtless have been taken to
secure and safely land the very best varieties from all the ports of
call for the company's ships. We should gather that no fruits
introduced in these days gave greater prospect of bringing wealth
and benefit to the country than oranges. Undoubtedly they
nourished exceedingly wherever planted, and wherever the
settler trekked further inland orange trees were invariably
planted by him and almost invariably thrived. The French
Huguenots in particular took up the matter of orange growing
with great spirit, their orchards in Drakenstein Valley and French
Hoek being celebrated at an early period. In fact wherever
Citrus trees would grow in Africa they have followed the
colonization of the country, both amongst the early English
settlers in the East and the Dutch as they trekked through Natal '
and the Transvaal.

There is no doubt that Citrus fruits are very much at home in
Africa ; we think that some of our old orchards will hold their
own with any in the world for health and vigour. We have our-
selves seen many of the older groves along the Mediterranean in
France, Spain and Northern Italy, and have seen none of them
approaching in general health and appearance even our average
grove at the Cape. However, the ravages of the Australian Bug
and the mal di goma (root rot) have played havrc amongst our
oldest and finest groves ; the great majority of these have now
already disappeared and of the remainder collar rot is taking
tuem off very rapidly, or if not killing them out, at least injuring
them to sufficient extent to render them of not the same account
either in appearance or bearing capabilities that they formerly were.

DEMAND.

The production of oranges in Africa has fallen very much
below the demand owing to the destruction caused by the Austra-
lian bug, and the " root rot." Between these two scourges the
great majority of our oldest and finest orchards have gone under.
We have no hesitation in stating that twenty years ago the pro-
duction of oranges was greater than it is to-day. It being

86

probably one of the very few articles of commerce which has not
moved on somewhat proportionately to the development of the
country. We have heard over and over again from farmers of
the glory of the former orange groves in the West, and how
wagon loads of oranges used to be taken into Cape Town, bring
the grower between one and two shillings per hundred, and at
these prices many farmers cleared between £500 and £1,000 per
annum for their groves. To-day we know the demand for
oranges to be excellent, and that it will be an increasing one we
are sure.

Export. — In regard to the export at the present time we are not
prepared to give an opinion. However, that oranges can be
landed in London in excellent condition we are sure of, because
we have done it ourselves, and our idea is that a trade can be
worked up if found necessary, but it will be many years before
there will be any occasion to go outside our own country for a
market. The following, cut from the "Daily Chronicle," will be
of general interest as showing, the enterprise of Australian growers.
We very naturally should be able to do infinitely better if we
manage our business properly. *' Oranges from Australia ? Yes
and capital fruit 100, and lemons, which are regarded as the com-
plement of oranges — perhaps because they grow under similar
conditions. This is another step in the direction of an all-British
.fruit supply, and, for that reason, to be recommended. The first
shipment of oranges from ' down under' has just been sold at
Covent Garden, and one may now eat the juicy product of trees
grown on the Mildura settlement, Victoria. Hitherto, with the
exception of a single shipment of lemons to England seven years
ago, the growers have been content with the home market. But
now they are eager to conquer the old country, and to that end
500 cases of oranges and lemons arrived on Wednesday, and
another 500 will reach here in a fortnight. The first sale was
osmewhat of a disappointment. The prices fetched were low, and
Mr. Pickering (brother to Mr. F. W. Pickering, of Mildura)
thinks there is a prejudice against Australian fruit of this descrip-
tion. He assured us that it is selected and packed with the
greatest care — the motto of the exporters being ' No rubbish.'
The average of damaged fruit in a case of 150 or so after its
long voyage has been three. In future it is proposed to have a
sorting warehouse, so that even these three may be eliminated.
The season for Australian oranges will be approximately from the
beginning of August until the end of September, which is just
the time when a really good orange will be most agreeable to the
English palate. At present the fruit has been sent by water to
Adelaide for shipment, a distance of about 300 miles ; but the
Government have decided to build a light railway, and the work
will shortly be taken in hand."

For lemons the demand is a steadily and increasing one, and
we have no doubt at all that there is room for a largely increased
acreage. In the proper curing will be the solution of the ques-
tion as to what extent the business can be increased.

SITE FOR CITRUS ORCHARD.

In deciduous planting, as we have already stated, we almost
always have reason to deplore the absence of data, as to whether
trees will grow or no. As in deciduous trees, where the seedling
and coarser sort of grafted tree will thrive, it does not follow that
the more delicate and more valuable fruits will always do well ;
we consider however that in Citrus growing it can be practically
recognized as a fact that when seedling oranges will grow and
thrive, improved varieties will also do so. We are therefore at
once placed in the position of having data in citrus growing
practically all over South Africa. This helps us considerably. In
fact, we consider very good work has been done in orange grow-
ing as regards sites. It has been actually proved all through the
Colony, also throughout the Orange River Colony and Transvaal, at
all events the best districts and the most favourable sites for plant-
ing. The opening up of the higher tableland for citrus planting
would have been quite a problem without such data, as it has been
demonstrated that it is only certain locations that are at all suitable,
owing to the prevalence of frosts in the higher veld. One site may
be perfectly free from frost, whereas another, a few hundred
yards away, is swept by frosts or cold winds which would render
the planting of citrus trees a fatal investment. It takes years to
arrive at this knowledge, and it is the years of settlement mainly
by the Dutch that has given us this valuable knowledge. Take
Florida, every orange grower knows how the State has been
devastated by occasional frosts, which have swept through wide
stretches of the country, cutting down to the ground thousands
and thousands of acres of bearing orchards. We take the Florida
situation in this way. The old Portuguese settlements along
the coast had luxurious old orange groves, which as the
State was developed and as the transport of fruit to northern
markets became a fact, were found to pay well. There-
upon land speculators and others boomed the country as
an orange growing country, and the boom took on.
People rushed to the conclusion that because orange trees
in old orchards thrive in certain districts, that large
stretches of country were equally suited, consequently trees were
planted out by thousands in districts that might not perhaps
catch a frost in ten years. We see the same result in a different
direction resulting from Uitlander enterprise in the Transvaal.
Millions of blue gum have been planted because they are quick
growing; we ourselves have seen hundreds of acres of them
destroyed by frost ; we believe it is now recognised that a hardier
tree is required. Therefore let us use the data which is before
our eyes over the country, and recognize that the limit of citrus
culture is in no particular area of altitude or otherwise, but that

88

right through the whole country, regardless of the general condi-
tions prevailing in the district, there are sheltered spots eminently
suited for our purpose, many of which have already been located
for us. Given a site where temperature is right and also a water
supply, the next point to consider is the character of the soil.
There are no two opinions on this point. Citrus trees to grow
healthily and live long (in other wrords to pay well) must be
planted on well drained soil ; personally we infinitely prefer a soil
naturally well drained ; in fact, a naturally dry soil, which is of
such a character that it readily accepts water into its depth. Of
such class of soils, there are hundreds of thousands of acres in
the Colony, provided the necessary water could be brought into
them in sufficient quantity for practical purposes. We should
always avoid sites which are naturally moist and wet, as the trees
will never give satisfaction in such a location. We remember a
noteworthy case in point. Mr. Rhodes some four years ago
dispatched a consignment of orange trees to Rhodesia to be dis-
tributed for planting, a couple of hundred were planted on his
own farm in the Matoppos, the only water supply here at that
time being a windmill pump, delivering the water into tubs.
The well had as usual been sunk in the part of the farm which
showed indications of being the wettest, and the trees were
planted in a couple of acres of land adjoining the well, so that
they would be handy for watering by means of the barrels,,
which were we believe placed on a sledge for this purpose, the
idea of course being that by placing them near -the water they
would be less likely to suffer, consequently they were standing in
soil where we feel certain they could not do themselves or indeed
anybody else credit. Here is th<3 point in planting citrus orchards :
don't take your trees to the ivater but lead your water to the trees,

The site secured, which should be a sheltered one, little affected
by frost, the next vital consideration is water ; we think that in
only very few favoured spots in South Africa can Citrus growing
be made profitable without water. We would ourselves
hesitate to recommend the planting of such an orchard without
having a water supply behind it proportionate to the number of
trees to be irrigated.

As to the method of applying water when one has the supply
available, we consider that there is great room for improvement,,
whilst recognizing the fact that it is in many instances impossible
to follow our directions. Owing to perhaps many causes we still
think it advisable to recommend the system of irrigation by
means of furrows as explained in the article under the head of
*4 Orchard Irrigation " on page 22.

89

SETTING OUT AN ORCHARD-

An orchard can be set out at any time during the periods that
the trees are dormant, probably from June to September is the
time when they are most so. Should, however, the trees be in
tins, with careful handling when they are removed from the tin<*
they can be set out in orchard even when they are growing, but
each tree must be well watered at once or many will die. There
is a good deal of difference of opinion as to whether it is best to
plant trees direct from tins or with bare roots. We would say
that should the tree have been dug out of the nursery without
much displacement of soil and just left long enough in the tin to
get established we would prefer it at an increased price,
roughly Is. per tree. But we have satisfied ourselves that if well
dug and every detail of the packing is carefully done Citrus tree&
can be safely transported any distance in the Colony with a small
loss on being planted out. But growers must remember that a
plant in foliage at the time of planting needs much more careful
attention, as although the tree may be quite dormant at
planting there must necessarily be a good deal of evaporation
through the leaves, and this evaporation must be met by keeping
the soil around the tree moist.

At once after planting we recommend the trees should receive
water, and that the surface of the soil around each tree should be
mulched with hay, straw, grass or bushes, or indeed anything
which will retain the moisture ; it is a good thing also to protect
the tree from the direct rays of the sun, either by reeds, stakes,.
bagging, or indeed anything w^hich will serve the purpose. We
are inclined to think, the defoliation of the young trees to prevent
evaporation is not altogether desirable, as the benefits derived
from it are more than counteracted by the danger of having the
tree scorched by the winds which are very prevalent throughout
the country.

The general directions given under the head of " Planting
Deciduous Trees," equally applies to Citrus trees, too much care
cannot be taken in every detail of the work.

Don't plant too deep. It is a mistake which is very generally
made throughout the country, and is of vital importance. In
Florida, where the soil is shallow, and the climatic conditions are
equable trees are often planted on the top of the ground, and the
soil thrown up against them ; we do not of course advocate this,
but we do say keep the place where the bud is inserted well
above the ground, letting the»crown of the roots be covered a few
inches only. Many growers have told us that it is impossible to
keep trees clean from scale if they have been set too deep ; we
cannot state this from our personal experience, but we do know
that in Florida it is generally recognized to be a fact, and it must

90

be borne in mind that Florida is a State of shallow soil*, and in
many instances we believe badly drained, whereas California is a
country of very deep soils. We feel satisfied that in shallow soils
deep planting will certainly bring an orchard into an unsatis-
factory state sooner or later, while in deep soil it is still quite an
important matter to keep the trees well up at planting.

Never manure your trees when setting them, it is a dangerous
thing to do ; wait until your trees are well established in a few
months, then the manure can safely be applied and will be readily
and promptly brought into solution by the irrigation water, which
should be immediately applied, the tree should then very shortly
respond.

STOCKS.

There has been a great amount of controversy as to the best
stocks for growing citrus trees in this country. Mainly through the
scare caused by the ravages of the disease known as mal di sroina
(root rot) there would have been no controversy on the point,
except for the general depredations of this disease. We have stu-
died the matter somewhat carefully, covering some years now, and
our opinion is that those who would try to lead planters to accept
the Bitter Seville as the stock for Oranges and Lemons, regardless
of the variety, are not doing growers any kindness. It is well
known to most nurserymen who grow citrus trees for sale that they
have had to discard the Seville stock for several varieties of the
citrus family, and it is a great error on the part of planters to insist
on this stock. The fact of the matter is that nurserymen m filling
the orders of those planters who insist on Seville root for every
variety have the utmost difficulty in bringing the tree to a decent
size for sale.

We are one of those who for certain varieties are in favour of
the old " Cape Lemon " as a stock, and although we fly in the face
of most others whose opinion is of value on this point, we are
quite prepared to stick to our view. It is well-known to us that
for some varieties grown in Australia, this is the only root that
gives satisfaction, and the same will be proved here in course of
time. We cannot understand why this variety is so bitterly con-
demned as a stock, because it is a well-established fact to those
who have studied the matter, that a great number of the orchards
of fifty years of age and upwards, are worked on this root
where they are not seedlings. In fact quite a fair proportion of
our oldest orchards (and surely it has been the survival of the
fittest) are worked en rough lemon ; we do not for a moment
advocate the wholesale adoption of the rough lemon as a stock,
but we wish to point out to growers that in our opinion there are
other stocks which have already stood the test of time in the
country we live in.

We fancy that many minds have become confused on this im-
portant question of stocks through a failure to identify the sour
•orange of Florida. Now this sour orange, which is growing wild in
many parts of Florida, having been introduced probably during
the early Portuguese colonization, has been proved to be a certain
resistant stock against " mal de gorna " both in Florida and Cali-
fornia. It is not however the Bitter or Seville Orange but a distinct
variety, and in our opinion is very closely allied to a species of
rough lemon that we find growing in several parts of the Colony ;
some of our readers may know it, a rough coarse fruit with the
deep brilliant colour of a highly coloured orange and the full acid
flavour of the lemon, in fact, a lemon with the appearance of an
orange.

IMPROVEMENT IN VARIETIES-

A movement has been going on for the last forty years, never
however at any time with any great degree of spirit, to improve
the varieties of Citrus trees growing in Africa. The credit for
this movement we believe should belong entirely to the East, as
we know of 110 instance within our knowledge in the West where
any steps have been taken to bring in the newer and more
popular varieties. Eastern Nurserymen, particularly those
managing the several Botanical Gardens, have done most excellent
work in the field, so that to-day we find the new varieties in
Citrus fruits have been almost entirely disseminated by Easterners;
they being also introduced to the West from this source.
Among growers there is to-day considerable uncertainty as to
whether the right and proper thing is being done in discarding
seedlings for what are called " new varieties," arrived at by either
budding or grafting; we are very solid on this, and give below the
points in favour of the respective views.

Those who favour the planting of seedlings will argue :

1. That a seedling is hardier, more strong growing, and bears
bigger crops. This we will readily admit.

2. The advocates of the budded tree will claim the fruit fetches
a higher price, and tree comes into bearing earlier. Also true.

We give our verdict in favour of the newer varieties :

Firstly. — Because we consider the seedling tree planted on
good soil here grows so freely that when it becomes over
fifteen years of age, it is almost an impossibility to
eradicate the pests that affect it ; it grows to a size which
makes it very difficult to fumigate it, and it is much more
difficult to get at with a spray. Whereas a budded tree
takes a great length of time to attain the same size, even
if it will ever do so, we ourselves having never seen a

92

worked orange tree of above 15 feet high, therefore a
budded tree can be readily fumigated or sprayed even
when it attain great age.

Secondly. — The seedling will not come into bearing until the
7th or 8th year, whereas a healthy budded tree will come
into bearing and pay well in the 4th year.

Thirdly. — Because a budded tree can be planted closer than a
seedling, 20 ft. to 25 ft. being ample distance aapart
for worked citrus trees whereas a seedling should be
set at 30 ft. apart, thus giving a greater number of trees
to the acre.

Fourthly. — Because by the planting of budded trees the
season for harvesting the crop is considerably extended,
always an important point in commercial fruit growing,
invariably resulting in better prices.

Fifthly. — Because it is always advisable to allow the opinion
of other people and the trend of work being carried out
in other countries who are engaging in kindred
enterprises to influence one, and thus we find in California
the planting of seedling oranges practically discontinued.
We have ourselves worked in several Citrus Nurseries
there, and can truthfully say that we have never seen a
seedling sold.

Again in Australia where in localities considerable attention is
being given to citrus growing, we find the planting of the very
best varieties of worked trees only being advocated, planters find-
ing out that they have even many varieties of budded and grafted
trees which are quite inferior to others.

In Spain, in " La Vuelta " of Valencia, which is a large stretch
of very valuable irrigable land stretching many miles, and from
which the English market draw a large part of their supplies, and
where we ourselves saw tens of thousands of newiy planted
orange orchards, worked trees are being entirely planted. We
can only add in conclusion that buyers of oranges in the Colony
are quite willing, and indeed do pay in many instances double the
money for the fruit of the improved varieties.

PRUNING.

The pruning of Citrus trees is very simple ; we consider the
cutting away of strong water suckers and the keeping of the
centre of the tree open so that one can get up and pick the fruit
from there when the tree grows large as being all that is
necessary.

We note from Californian papers that a new system of
pruning the lemon has taken a firm hold on the minds of some

93

growers, the main idea on this system being to cut away all the
branches that are inclined to run to the perpendicular and keep
the top of the tree quite low, and allowing the branches to spread
out horizontally like a big umbrella. We do not however, feel
inclined to advise such a wide departure from ordinary practice
until the system is adopted extensively by growers.

MAL DI GORMA.

[OR ROOT ROT.]

This disease is so widely spread about amongst Cape Orchards
that we think it will not be out of place to insert here the treat-
ment as recommended by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, who
have made exhaustive enquiries on the subject :

1. Remove the earth from about the roots for 2 or 3 feet from

the trunk, being careful not to wound the healthy root

In all cases the roots should be left exposed till recovery takes
place, except possibly during a portion of the winter when severe
freezes are liable to occur.

2. Cut away all diseased spots in the bark of the roots or trunk
and cover the wounds with one of the following antiseptic solu-
tions : (1) Sulphurous (not sulphuric) acid, 15 parts to 85 parts of
water. This may be sprayed on the roots. (2) Carbolic acid, 1
part of crude acid to 1 part of water. When diluted 1 to 5 this

may be sprayed over the roots These solutions

should be kept in wooden or glass vessels and should not be
allowed to come in contact with metals. It is possible that either
of these applications will prove of benefit even if the diseased
spots are not cut out. In this latter case, however, care should be
taken to saturate the bark of all diseased spots with the solution .

3. When the diseased trees are old and closely set, so that the
ground is much shaded, every other tree should be removed and
replanted in a new grove.

4. Avoid highly nitrogenous fertilizers in diseased groves,
using preferably Nitrate of Soda, or Sulphate of Ammonia, as a
source of Nitrogen.

5. All tools used in infected groves should be cleaned and
washed with crude carbolic acid before they are used in healthy
groves.

6. In setting new groves dead trees should be replaced with
trees budded on resistant stock.

7. Avoid excessive and deep cultivation in diseased groves.
Injuries to the roots, such as are often caused by deep ploughing,
seem to greatly favour the spread of the disease.

94

VARIETIES OF CITRUS TREES.

Blood. — One of the blood oranges, probably Maltese ; the-
peculiarity of the fruit lies in the flesh being streaked
and mottled with red ; this, however, does not appear
much in the fruit of a young tree. Bears well and
brings satisfactory prices. Small to medium in size.

Jaffa. — Imported from Jafta via California. Grows strongly and
bears freely ; in every way a desirable variety ; rind
medium thin, excellent flavour, early bearer ; is the same
orange that is so well received in London from Jaffa.

Joppa, — A California seedling grown from a seed received from
Palestine. Fruit oblong, almost seedless, thin rind, very
juicy and sweet ; can hang long on the tree.

Mediterranean Sweet. — A well-known and popular California
variety ; bears young and abundantly ; fruit of good
quality, rind thin. Fruit not very deep in colour. Tree
not a free grower.

Paper Rind St. Michael. — Medium size fruit with an exceed-
ingly thin rind ; we think will be popular ; has been sent
to England, carrying well. Tree not a free grower but
early bearer ; will become very popular locally when
known.

Valencia Late (Hart's Tardiff). — A very popular variety tested
here ; bears well but not when the tree is small ; hangs-
very late on the tree, in fact green when most of the
others are picked ; as a market variety will prove very
remunerative.

"Washington Navel. — Well-known throughout the world and
realizing the best prices ; of good size, delicious flavour,
and almost seedless ; bears well and grows freely. We
think the quality is a good deal dependent on the con-
ditions under which it is grown, becoming in some
localities and situations of much superior quality than in
others.

Genoa Lemon. — Medium size, a long oval, of good shape and
appearance, and of the very best quality. We consider, to-
get in every respect a first-class lemon, one need go no
further than this variety ; grows freely and bears
abundantly.

95

Villa Franca. — Of larger size than the Genoa ; oval, but more-
bulged ; an excellent lemon in every respect, bears freely
and young, flavour good.

Grape Fruit (Triumph). — Has lately become very popular in
the United States, mainly for its medicinal properties,,
which are undoubted ; is eaten with sugar, and acts on
the system as a refresher. A very strong grower.

Naartje. — A selected variety of the Cape Naartje ; can be in every
way recommended.

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBR

ARY

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW

OCT 29 1914
rEC

30w-6,'14

YC 6IT53

'

Before Planting Fruit -
Trees, don't neglect to -

get the - . .

Price List of*

H E V. PlCKSTONE [

and Brother, |

P.O. QROOT DRAKENSTE1N,
via PAARL

Their Trees have been success-
fully planted over the whole
of South Africa, and are giving
excellent results.