fvELur4 W*vo| Presented to the LIBRARY of the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO by Ontario Legislative Library THE HISTORY OF CAROLINA, CONTAINING THE EXACT DESCRIPTION AND NATURAL HISTORY OF THAT COUNTRY, TOGETHER WITH WHE PRESENT ST\TE^TEREOF AND A JOURNAL OP A THOUSAND MILES TRAVELED THROUGH SEVERAL NA- TIONS OF INDIANS, GIVING A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THEIR CUSTOMS, MANNERS, &C., &C. By JOHN LAWSON, Gent. Surveyor-General of North Carolina. LONDON : Printed for W. Taylor at the Ship, and F. Baker at the Black Boy, in Pater-Noster Row, 1714. RALEIGH : PRINTED BY STROTHER & MARCOM AT THEIR BOOK AND JOB OFFICE, 1860. PREFACE TO EE-PUBLICATION. IN offering to the public a re-publication of Lawson's History of North Carolina, the under- signed will briefly state the reasons that led to the undertaking. But two copies of the original edition (one in the State Library, presented by President Madison, and one at the University,) are now to be found within the State ; and possi- bly, a century hence, or in less time, they will have been destroyed. Hence the necessity of a re- print— and the undersigned flatter themselves that they will receive the thanks of posterity at least, if by their instrumentality, the pages of Lawson shall be perpetuated in all their original- ity and sprightliness. Subsequent historians have copied more or less from our author — thus endors- ing his claim to be considered a faithful chroni- cler of his time, and showing the importance of preserving entire whatever tends to elucidate the history of our good old State — the pride and boast of us all. Influenced by these considerations, and prompted by the solicitations of many friends, IV PREFACE TO RE-PtBLICATION. the subscribers undertook tbe re-publication, and they trust that they have done no mean service in thus rescuing from "the wreck of matter '* such interesting pages in the annals of their country's legends. 0. II. PERRY & CO. Raleigh, March 28, 1860. PREFACE. Tis a great misfortune that most of our travel- lers, who go to this vast continent in America, are persons of the meaner sort, and generally, of a very slender education ; who being hired by the merchants to trade amongst the Indians, in which voyages they often spend several years, are yet, at their return, incapable of giving any reasona- ble account of what they met withal in those re- mote parts ; though the country abounds with cu- riosities worthy a nice observation. In this point, I think the French outstrip us. First : by their numerous clergy, their mission- aries being obedient to their superiors in the high- est degree, and that obedience being one great article of their vow, and strictly observed amongst all their orders. Secondly : They always send abroad some of their gentlemen in company of the missionaries, who, upon their arrival, are ordered out into the wilderness, to make discoveries, and to acquaint themselves with the savages of America ; and are obliged to keep a strict journal of all the passages they meet withal, in order to present the same not only to their governors and fathers, but likewise VI PREFACE. to their friends and relations in France; which is industriously spread about that kingdom, to their advantage. For their monarch being a very good judge of men's deserts, does not often let money or interest make men of parts give place to others of less worth. This breeds an honorable emulation amongst them, to outdo one another, even in fatigues and dangers ; whereby they gain a good correspon- dence with the Indians, and acquaint themselves with their speech and customs ; and so make con- siderable discoveries in a short time. Witness their journals trom Canada to the Mississippi, and its several branches, where they have effected great matters in a few years. Having spent most of my time, during my eight years abode in Carolina, in travelling, I not only surveyed the sea-coast, and those parts which are already inhabited by the Christians, but likewise viewed a spacious tract of land lying betwixt the inhabitants and the ledges of mountains, from, whence our noblest rivers have their rise, running towards the ocean, where they water as pleasant a country as any in Europe ; the discovery of which being never yet made public. I have in the fol- lowing sheets, given you a faithful account there- of; wherein I have laid down everything with im- partiality, and truth, which is indeed, the duty of every author, and preferable to a smooth style, ac- companied with falsities and hyperboles. Great part of this pleasant and healthful country is in- PREFACE, VII habited by none but savages, who covet a Chris- tian neighborhood, for the advantage of trade, and enjoy all the comforts of life, free from care and want. But not to amuse my readers any longer with the encomium of Carolina, I refer them to my journal, and other more particular description of that country and its inhabitants, which they will find after the natural history thereof, in which I have been very exact, and for method's sake ar- ranged each species under its distinct and proper head. DEDICATION. TO HIS EXCELLENCY William Lord Craven, Palatine ; The most noble, Henry Duke of Beaufort ; The right Honorable John Lord Carteret ; The Honorable Maurice Ashley, Esq.; Sir John Colleton, Baronet, John Daiison, Esq ; And the rest of the true and absolute Lords Proprietors of the Province of Carolina in America. MY LORDS, As debts of gratitude ought most punctually to be paid, so, where the debtor is in- capable of payment, acknowledgments ought, at least to be made, I cannot, in the least, pretend to retaliate your lordships favors to me, but must far- ther intrude on that goodness of which I have al- ready had so good experience, by laying these sheets at your lordships' feet, where they beg pro- tection, as having nothing to recommend them but truth — a gift which every author may be mas- ter of, if he will. I here present your lordships with a description of your own country, for the most part, in her natural dress, and therefore less vitiated with X DEDICATION. fraud and luxury. A country, whose inhabitants may enjoy a life of the greatest ease and satisfac- tion, and pass away their hours in solid content- ment. Those charms of liberty and right, the darlings of an English nature, which your lordships grant and maintain, make you appear noble patrons in the eyes of all men, and we a happy people in a foreign country ; which nothing less than ingrati- tude and baseness can make us disown. As heaven has been liberal in its gifts, so are your lordships favorable promoters of whatever may make us an easy people, which, I hope, your lordships will continue to us and our posterity ; that we and they may always acknowledge such favors, by banishing from among us every principle which renders men factious and unjust; which is the hearty prayer of, My Lords, Your Lordships most obliged, Most humble and Most devoted servant, JOHN LAWSOK INTRODUCTION. IN the year 1700, when people flocked from all parts of the Christian world, to see the solemnity of the grand jubilee at Rome, my intention at that time being to travel, I accidentally met with a gentleman, who had been abroad, and was very well acquainted with the ways of living in both Indies ; of whom having made inquiry concern- ing them, he assured me that Carolina was the best country I could go to ; and, that there then lay a ship in the Thames in which I might have my passage. I laid hold on this opportunity, and was not long on board, betore we fell down the river and sailed to Cowes ; where, having taken in some passengers, we proceeded on our voyage, 'till we sprung a leak, and were forced into the Islands of Scilly. Here we spent about ten days in refitting. In which time we had a great deal of diversion in fishing and shooting on those rocky islands. The inhabitants were very courteous and civil, especially the governor, to whose good company and favor, we were very much obliged. There is a town on one of these islands, where is good entertainment for those that happen to come in, though the land is but mean, and flesh- meat not plenty. They have goad store of rabbits, XII INTRODUCTION. quails and fish; and you sec at the poor peoples doors, great heaps of periwinkle shells, those fish being a great part of their food. On the first day of May, having a fair wind at east, we put to sea, and were on the ocean (without speaking to any vessel, except a Ketch, bound from $"ew Eng- land to Barbadoes, laden with horses, fish, and provisions,) till the latter end of July, when the winds hung so much southerly, that we could not get to our port, but put into Sandy-hook bay, and went up to Kew York, after a pinching voy- age, caused by our long passage. We found at the watering place, a French man-of-war, who had on board, men and necessaries to make a colony, and was intended for the Mississippi river, there to settle. The country of New York is very pleasant in summer, but in the winter very cold, as all the northern plantations are. Their chief commodities are provisions, bread, beer, lumber, and fish in abundance : all which are very good, and some akins and furs are hence exported. The city is governed by a mayor, (as in England,) is seated on an island, and lies very convenient for trade and defence, having a regular fort, and well mounted with guns. The buildings are generally of a smaller sort of ileinish brick, and of the Dutch fashion, (except- ing some few houses.) They are all very firm and good work, and conveniently placed, as is like- wise the town, which gives a very pleasant pros- xm pect of the neighboring islands and rivers. A good part of the inhabitants are Dutch, in whose hands this colony once was. After a fortnight's stay here, we put out from Sandyhook, and in fourteen days after arrived at Chaiiestown, the metropolis of South Carolina, which is situated in 32.45 north latitude, and ad- mits of large ships to come over their bar up to the town, where is a very commodious harbor about five miles distant from the inlet, and stands on a point very convenient for trade, being seat- ed between two pleasant and navigable rivers. — The town has very regular and fair streets, in which are good buildings of brick and wood ; and since my coming thence, has had great additions of beautiful large brick buildings, besides a strong fort and regular fortifications made to defend the town. The inhabitants, by their wise management and industry, have much improved the country, which is in as thriving circumstances at this time as any colony on the continent of English America, and is of more advantage to the crown of Great Brit- ain, than any of the other more northerly plant- ations, (Virginia and Maryland excepted). This colony was at first planted by a genteel sort of people, that were well acquainted with trade, and had either money or parts, to make good use of the advantages that offered, as most of them have done, by raising themselves to great estates, and considerable places of trust, and posts of honor. XIV INTRODUCTION. in this thriving settlement. Since the first plant- ers abundance of French and others have gone over and raised themselves to considerable for- tunes. They are very neat and exact in packing and shipping of their commodities ; which meth- od has got them so great a character abroad, that they generally come to a good market with their commodities ; when oftentimes the product of other plantations, are forced to be sold at lower prices. They have a considerable trade, both to Europe and to the West Indies, whereby they become rich, and are supplied with all things ne- cessary for trade and genteel living, which sever- al other places fall short of. Their cohabiting in a town has drawn to them ingenious people of most sciences, whereby they have tutors amongst them that educate their youth a-la-mode. Their roads, with great industry, are made ve- ry good and pleasant. E"ear the town is built a fair parsonage house, with necessary officers, and the minister has a very considerable allowance from his parish. There is likewise a French church in town, of the Reformed religion, and several meeting houses for dissenting congrega- tions, who all enjoy at this day an entire liberty of their worship ; the constitution of this govern- ment allowing all parties of well-meaning chris- tians to enjoy a free toleration and possess the same privileges, so long as they appear to behave themselves peaceably and well. It being the lords proprietors intent that the inhabitants of INTRODUCTION. XV Carolina should be as free from oppression as any in the universe, which doubtless they will, if their own differences amongst themselves do not occasion the contrary. They have a well disciplined militia; their horse are most gentlemen and well mounted, and the best in America, and may equalize any in other parts. Their officers, both infantry and cavalry, generally appear in scarlet mountings, and as rich as in most regiments belonging to the crown, which shows the richness and grandeur of this colony. They are a frontier, and prove such troublesome neighbors to the Spaniards, that they have once laid their town of St. Augustine in ashes, and drove away their cattle, besides many encounters and engagements, in which they have defeated them, too tedious to relate here. What the French got by their attempt against South Carolina, will hardly ever be ranked a- mongst their victories ; their admiral Mouville, being glad to leave the enterprise, and run away, after he had suffered all the loss and disgrace he was capable of receiving. They are absolute masters over the Indians, and carry so strict a hand over such as are within the circle of their trade, that none does the least injury to any of the English, but he is presently sent for and punished "with death, or otherwise, according to the nature of the fault. They have an entire friendship with the neighboring Indians of several nations, which are a very warlike peo- XVI INTRODUCTION. pie, ever faithful to the English, and have proved themselves brave and true on all occasions ; and are a great help and strength to this colony. The cheif of the savage nations have heretofore groan- ed under the Spanish yoke, and having experienc- ed their cruelty have become such mortal ene- mies to that people, that they never give a Span- iard quarter ; but generally, when they take any prisoners, (if the English be not near to prevent it) scalp them, that is, to take their hair and skin of their heads, which they often flee away while the wretch is alive. Notwithstanding the English have used all their endeavors, yet they could never bring them to leave this barbarity to the Spaniards, who as they alledge, use to murder them and their relations, and make slaves of them to build their forts and towns. This place is more plentiful in money than most, or indeed any of the plantations on the continent; besides, they build a considerable number of ves- sels of cedar, and other wood, with which they trade to Cuirassau and the West Indies ; from one they bring money, and from the other the produce of their islands, which yields a necessary supply of both to the colony. Their stocks of cattle are incredible, being from one to two thousand head in one man's possession. These feed in the Savannahs, and other grounds, and need no fodder in the winter. Their mutton and vcul is good, and their pork is not inferior to INTRODUCTION. XVII any in America. As for pitch and tar, none of the plantations are comparable for affording the vast quantities of Naval stores, as this place does. There have been, heretofore, some discoveries of rich mines in the mountainous part of this coun- try: but being remote from the present settle- ment, and the inhabitants not well versed in or- dering minerals, they have been laid aside till a more fit opportunity happens. There are several noble rivers, and spacious tracts of rich land in their lordships dominions, lying to the southward, which are yet uninhabited, besides -Port Royal, a rare harbour and inlet, having many inhabitants thereon, which their lordships have now made a port for trade. This will be a most advantageous settlement, lying so commodiously for ships com- ing from the Gulf, and the richness of the land, which is reported to be there. These more south- erly parts will aiibrd oranges, lemons, limes, and many other fruits, which the northerly plantations yield not. The merchants of Carolina are fair, frank traders. The gentlemen seated in the coun- try, are very courteous, live very noble in their houses, and give very genteel entertainment to all strangers and others that come to visit them.. And since the produce of South and Xorth Carolina is the same, unless silk, which tins place produces great qaii titles of, and very good. Xorth Carolina having never made any trial thereof as yet, therefore I shall refer the natural produce of this country, to that part which treats of Xortli XVIII INTRODUCTION. Carolina, whose productions are much the same. The Christian inhabitants of both colonies pret- ty equal, but the slaves of South Carolina are far more in number than those in the North. I shall now proceed to relate my journey through the country from this settlement to the other, and then treat of the natural history of Carolina, with other remarkable circumstances which I have met with, during my eight years abode in that country. A JOURNAL OF A THOUSAND MILES TRAVEL AMONG THE INDIANS, FROM SOUTH TO NORTH CAROLINA, ON December the 28tli, 1700, 1 began my voyage, (for N"orth Carolina,) from Charlestown, being six Englishmen in company, with three Indian men and one woman, wife to our Indian guide, having five miles from the town to the breach, we went down in a large canoe, that we had provided for our voyage thither, having the tide of ebb along with us, which was so far spent by that time we got down, that we had not water enough for our craft to go over, although we drew but two feet, or there-abouts. This breach is a passage through a marsh lying to the northward of Sullivans island, the pilots having a look-out thereon, lying very commodious for mariners, (on that coast,) making a good laud-mark in so level a country, this bar being difficult to hit, where an observation hath been wanting for a day or two ; north-east winds bringing great fogs, mists and rains, which, to- wards the cool months of October, November, and until the latter end of March, often appear in these parts. There are three pilots to attend and conduct 20 LAWSON'S HISTORY ships over the bar. The harbour where the ves- sels generally ride, is against the town 011 Coop- er's river; lying within a point which parts that and Ashley river, they being land-locked almost on all sides. At four in the afternoon, (at half flood) we pass- ed with our canoe, over the breach, leaving Sulli- vans island on our starboard. The first place we designed for was Santee river, on which there is a colony of French protestants, allowed and en- couraged by the lords proprietors. At night we got to Bell's island, a poor spot of land, being about ten miles round, where lived, (at that time) a Ber- mudian, being employed here with a boy, to look after a stock of cattle and hogs, by the owner of this island. One side of the roof of his house was thatched with palmetto leaves, the other open to the heavens, thousands of musketoes, and other troublesome insects, tormenting both man and beast inhabiting these islands. The palmetto trees, whose leaves growing only on the top of the tree, in the shape of a fan, and in a cluster like a cab- bage ; this tree in Carolina, when at its utmost growth, is about forty or fifty feet in heigh th, and two feet through. It is worth mentioning, that the growth of the tree is not perceivable in the age of any man, the experiment having been often tried in Bermudas and elsewhere, which shows the slow growth of this vegetable, the wood of it being poms and stringy, like some canes; the leave* thereof, the Bermudiaiis make womons* OF SORTII CAROLINA. 21 hats, bokeets, baskets, and pretty dressing boxes, a great deal being transported to Pensilvania, and other northern parts of America, (where they do not grow,) for the same manufacture. The people of Carolina make of the fans of this tree, brooms, very servicable to sweep their houses withal. We took up our lodging this night with the Ber- mudian ; our entertainment was very indifferent, there being no fresh water to be had in the island. The next morning we set away through the marshes ; about noon we reached another island, called Dix's island, much like to the former, though larger. There lived an honest Scot who gave us the best reception his dwelling afforded, being well provided of oat meal, and several oth- er effects he had found on that coast ; which goods belonged to that unfortunate vessel, the Rising Sun, a Scotch man-of-war, lately arrived from the isthmus of Darien, and cast away near the bar of Ashley river, the September before, Capt. Gibson of Glasco then commanding her, who, with above an hundred men then on board her, were every soul drowned, in that terrible gust, which then happened; most of the corps being taken up, were carefully interred by Mr. Graham, their lieu- tenant, who happily was on shore during the tempest. After dinner we left our Scotch land- lord, and went, that night, to the north-east point of the island. It being dark ere we got there, our canoe struck on a sand near the breakers, and 22 LAWSON'S HISTORY were in great danger of our lives, but (by God' 3 blessing) got off safe to the shore, where we lay all night. In the morning we set forward on our intended voyage. About two o'clock we got to Bulls island, which is about thirty miles long, and hath a great number of both cattle and hogs upon it ; the cattle being very wild and the hogs very lean. These two last islands belong to one Col. Gary, an inhabitant of South Carolina. Although it were winter, yet we found such swarms of musketoes, and other troublesome in- sects, that we got but litttle rest that night. The next day we intended for a small island on the other side of Sewee bay, which, joining to these islands, shipping might come to victual or careen : but there being sucli^a burden of those flies that few or none, care to settle there ; so the stock thereon are run wild. We were gotten about half way to Racoon island, when there sprung up a tart gale at !N". "W., which put us in some danger of being cast away, the bay being rough, and there running great seas between the two islands, which are better than four leagues asunder, a strong current of a tide setting in and out, which made us turn tail to it, and got our canoe right before the wind, and came safe into a creek that is joining to the north end of Bulls island. We sent our In- dians to hunt, who brought us two deers, which were very poor, and their maws full of large grubs. On the morrow we went and visited the eastern- most side of this island, it joining to the ocean, OP NORTH CAROLINA. 23 having very fair, sandy beeches, paved with innu- merable sorts of curious pretty shells; very plea- sant to the eye. Amongst the rest, we found the Spanish oyster shell, whence come the pearls. — They are very large, and of a different form from other oysters. Their color much resembles the Tortoise shell, when it is dressed. There was left by the tide, several strange species of a mucilagi- nous, slimy substance, though living, and very aptly moved at. their first appearance ; yet, being left on the dry sand, by the beams of the sun, soon exhale and vanish. At our return to our quarters, the Indians had killed t\vo more deer, two wild hogs, and three rac- coons, all very lean except the raccoons. We had great store of oysters, conks and claims, a large sort of cockles. These parts being very well fur- nished with shell-fish, turtle of several sorts, but fewr or none of the green, with other sorts of salt water fish, and in the season good plenty of fowles, as curleus, gulls, gannets, and pillicans, besides duck and mallard, geese, swans, teal, widgeon, &c. On Thursday morning w^e left. Bulls Island, and went through the creeks, which lie betwixt the bay and the main land. At noon we went on shore, and got our dinner near a plantation, on a creek having the full prospect of Sewee bay. We sent up to the house, but found none at home but a negro, of whom our messenger purchased some small quantity of tobacco and rice. We 24 OF NORTH CAROLINA. came to a deserted Indian residence, called Aven- daughbough, where we rested that night. The next day we entered Santee river's mouth, where is fresh water, occasioned by the extraor- dinary current that comes down continually. — "With hard rowing, we got two leagues up the river, lying all night in a swampy piece of ground, the weather being so cold all that time, we were almost frozen ere morning, leaving the impression of our bodies on the wet ground. We set forward very early in the morning to seek some better quarters. As we rowed up the river we found the land towards the mouth, and for about six- teen miles up it, scarce any thing but swamp po- cosin, affording vast cypress trees, of which the French make canoes that will carry fifty or sixty barrels. After the tree is moulded and dug they saw them in two pieces, and so put a plank be- twixt and a small keel to preserve them from the oyster banks, which are innumerable in the creeks and bays between the French settlement and Charlestown. They carry two masts and bermudas sails, which makes them very ftandy and fit for their purpose ; for although their river fetches its first rise from the mountains and continues a cur- rent some hundreds of miles ere it disgorges it- self, having no sound, bay or sand banks betwixt the mouth thereof and the ocean. Notwithstand- ing all this, with the vast stream it affords at all seasons, and the repeated freshes it so often alarms the inhabitants with, by laying under water great LAWSON'S HISTORY 25 part of their country, yet the mouth is barred af- foarding not above four or five feet water at the entrance. As we went up the river we heard a great noise as if two parties were engaged against each other, seeming exactly like small shot. When we approached nearer the place we found it to be some Sewee Indians firing the cane swamps, which drives out the game, then taking their particular stands, kill great quantities of both bear, deer, turkies, and what wild crea- tures the parts afford. These Sewees have been formerly a large nation, though now very much decreased, since the English hath seated their land, and all other nations of Indians are observed to partake of the same fate, where the Europeans come, the Indians being a people very apt to catch any distemper they are afflicted withal. The small pox has destroyed many thousands of these natives who, no sooner than they are attacked with the violent fevers and the burning which attends that distemper, fling themselves over-head in the water, in the very extremity of the disease, which, shut- ting up the pores, hinders a kindly evacuation of the pestilential matter, and drives it back, by which means death most commonly ensues ; not but in other distempers which are epidemical, you may find among them practitioners that have extraordinary skill and success in removing those morbific qualities which afflict them, not often go- ing above one hundred yards from their abode for A2 6 OF XORTH CAROLINA. their remedies, some of their chiefest physicians commonly carrying their compliment of drugs continually about them, which are roots, barks, berries, nuts, &c., that are strung upon a thread. So like a Pomander, the physician wears them about his neck. An Indian hath been often found to heal an Englishman of a malady for the value of a match-coat, which the ablest of our English pretenders in America, after repeated applications, have deserted the patient as incurable ; God hav- ing furnished every country with specific remedies for their peculiar diseases. Eum, a liquor, now so much in use with them that they will part with the dearest thing they have, to purchase it ; and when they have got a little in their heads, are the impatientest creatures living, till they have enough to make them quite drunk, and the most miserable spectacles when they are so, some falling into the fires, burn their legs or arms, contracting the sinews, and become cripples all their lifetime ; others from precipices break their bones and joints, with abundance of instances, yet none are so great to deter them from that accursed practice of drunk- enness, though sensible how many of them (are by it) hurryed into the other world before their time, as themselves oftentimes will confess. The Indians I was now speaking of, were not content with the common enemies that lesson and destroy their country-men, but invented an infallible strat- agem to purge their tribe, and reduce their multi- tude into far less numbers. Their contrivance LAWSON'S HISTORY 27 was thus, as a trader amongst them informed me : They seeing several ships coming in, to bring the English supplies from Old England, one chief part of their cargo being for a trade with the Indians, some of the craftiest of them had observed that the ships came always in at one place, which made them very confident that way was the exact road to England ; and seeing so many ships come thence, they believed it could not be far thither, esteeming the English that were among them, no better than cheats, and thought, if they could car- ry the skins and furs they got, themselves to Eng- land, which were inhabited with a better sort of people than those sent amongst them, that then they should purchase twenty times the value for every pelt they sold abroad, in consideration of what rates they sold for at home. The intened barter was exceeding well approved of, and after a gen- eral consultation of the ablest heads amongst them it was nemine contradicente agreed upon, immediate- ly to make an addition of their fleet, by building more canoes, and those to be of the best sort and bigest size, as fit for their intended discovery. Some Indians were employed about making the canoes, others to hunting, every one to the post he was most fit for, all endeavors tending towards an able fleet and cargo for Europe. The affair was carried on with a great deal of secrecy and ex- pedition, so as in a small time they had gotten a na- vy, loading, provisions, and hands, ready to set sail leaving only the old, impotent and minors at home, 28 OP NORTH CAROLINA. 'i .1 their successful return. The wind presenting,. t> sy set up their mat sails, and were scare out of' sight, when there rose a tempest, which it is sup- posed carry ed oil part of these Indian merchants by way of the other world, whilst the others were taken up at*sea, by an English ship, and sold for slaves to the islands. The remainder are better satisfied with their imbecilities in such an under- taking, nothing affronting them more than to re- hearse their voyage to England. There being a strong current in Santee river, caused us to make small way with our oars. With hard rowing we got that night to Mons. Eugee's house, which stands about fifteen miles up the riv- er, being the first Christian dwelling we met with- al in that settlement, and were very courteously received by him and his wife. Many of the French follow a trade with the In- dians, living very conveniently for that interest. There is about seventy families seated on this riv- er, who live as decently and happily as any plan- ters in these southward parts of America. The French being a temperate industrious people, some of them bringing very little of effects, yet, by their endeavors and mutual assistance, amongst themselves (which is highly to be commended) have outstripped our English, who brought with them larger fortunes, though (as it seems) less en- deavor to manage their talent to the best advan- tage. Tis admirable to see what time and indus- try will (with God's blessing) effect. Carolina, LAWSON'S HISTORY 29 affording many strange revolutions in the age of a man, daily instances presenting themselves to our view, of so many from despicable beginnings, which, in a short time, arrive to very splendid conditions. Here property hath a large scope, there being no strict laws to bind our privileges, A qust after game being as freely and perempto- rily enjoyed by the meanest planter, as he that the highest in dignity, or wealthiest in the pro- vince. Deer and other game that are naturally wild, being not immured, or preserved within boundaries, to satisfy the appetite of the rich alone. Apoor laborer that is master of his gun, &c., hath as good a claim to have continued coarses of delica- cies crowded upon his table, as he that is master of a great purse. We lay all that night at Mons. Eugee's, and the next morning set out. farther, to go the remainder of our voyage by land. At ten o'clock we passed over a narrow, deep swamp, having left the three Indian men and one woman, that had piloted the canoe from Ashley river, having hired a Sewee Indian, a tall lusty fellow, who carried a pack of our clothes of great weight ; notwithstanding his burden, we had as much a do to keep pace with him. At noon we came up with several French plantations, meeting with several creeks by the way. The French were very officious in assisting with their small dories, to pass over these waters, (whom we met coming from their church) being all of them very clean and decent in their 30 OF NORTH CAROLINA. apparel ; their houses and plantations suitable in neatness and contrivance. They are all of the same opinion with the church of Geneva, there be- ing no difference amongst them concerning the punctilios of their Christian faith ; which union hath propagated a happy and delightful concord in all other matters throughout the whole neighborhood, living amongst themselves as one tribe or kindred, every one making it his business to be assistant to the wants of his country-man, preserving his estate and reputation with the same exactness and concern as he does his own, all seeming to share in the misfortunes, and rejoice at the advance and rise of their brethren. Towards the afternoon we came to Mons. L' Jan- dro, where we got our dinner ; there coming some French ladies while we were there who were late- ly come from England, and Moris. L. Grand, a worty Gorman, who hath been a great sufferer in his estate by the persecution in France, against those of the protestant religion : this gentleman very kindly invited us to make our stay with him all night, but we being intended farther that day took our leaves, returning acknowledgements of their favors. About four in the afternoon, we passed over a large cypress run in a small canoe ; the French doctor sent his negro to guide us over the head of a large swamp. So we got that night to Mons. Gal-Han's the elder, who lives in a very curious contrived house built of brick and stone, which is gotten near that place, j^ear here conies LAWSON'S HISTORY 31 in the road from Charlestown and the rest of the English settlement, it being a very good way by land, and not above thirty-six miles, although more than one hundred by water ; and I think the most difficult way I ever saw, occasioned by reason of the multitude of creeks lying along the main, keeping their courses through the marshes, turning and winding like a labyrinth, having the tide of ebb and flood twenty times in less than three leagues going. The next morning very early we ferried over a creek that runs near the house ; and after an hour's travel in the woods, we came to the river side, where we staid for the Indians who was our guide, and was gone round by water in a small canoe to meet us at that place we rested at. They came after a small time, and ferried us in that little vessel over Santee river, four miles and eighty-four miles in the woods, which the overflowing of the freshes, which then came down, had made a perfect sea of, there running an incredible current in the riv- er, which had cast our small craft and us away, had we not had this Sewee Indian with us ; who are excellent artists in managing these small ca- noes. Santee river at this time, (from the usual depth of water,) was risen perpendicular thirty-six feet, always making a breach from her banks about this season of the year. The general opin- ion of the cause thereof, is supposed to proceed from the overflowing of fresh water lakes that lie near the head of this river and others upon the OF NORTH CAROLINA. same continent. But my opinion is, that these vast inundations proceed from the great and re- peated quantities of snow that falls upon the mountains, which lie at so great a distance from the sea, therefore they have no help of being dis- solved by those saline, piercing particles as other adjacent parts near the ocean receive, and there- fore lies and increases to a vast bulk, until some mild southerly breeze coming on a sudden, con- tinues to unlock these frozen bodies, congealed by the north-west wind, dissipating them in li- quids, and coming down with impetuosity, fill those branches that feed these rivers and causes this strange deluge, which oft times lays under water the adjacent parts on both sides this cur- rent, for several miles distant from her banks ; though the French and Indians affirmed to me, they never knew such an extraordinary flood there before. We all, by God's blessing and the endeavors of our Indian pilot, passed safe over the river, but was lost in the woods, which seemed like some great lake, except here and there a knowl of high land which appeared above water. We intended for Mons. Gallian's jun., but was lost, none of us knowing the way at that time, al- though the Indian was born in that country, it having received so strange a metamorphasis. We were in several opinions concerning the right way, the Indian and myself suppossed the house to bear one way, the rest thought to the contrary ; LAWSON'S HISTORY 33 we differing, It was agreed on amongst us, that one-half should go with the Indian to find the house, and the other part to stay upon one of these dry spots, until some of them returned to us and informed us where it lay. Myself and two more were left behind, by rea- son the canoe would not carry us all. We had but one gun amongst us, one load of ammunition and no provision. Had our men in the canoe miscarried, we must, in all probability, there have perished. In about six hours' time from our men's depar- ture, the Indian came back to us in the same ca- noe he went in being half drunk, which assured us they had found some place of refreshment. He took us three into the canoe telling us all was well : padling our vessel several miles through the woods, being often half full of water; but a length we got safe to the place we sought for, which proved to lie the same way the Indian and I guessed it did. When we got to the house, we found our com- rades in the same trim the Indian was in, and several of the French inhabitants with them, who treated us very courteously, wondering at our undertaking such a voyage, through a country in- habited by none but savages, and them of so dif- ferent nations and tongues. After we had refreshed ourselves, we parted from a very kind, loving and affable people, who wished us a safe and prosperous voyage. 84 OF NORTH CAROLINA. Hearing of a camp of Santee Indians not far off we set out intending to take up our quarters with them that night. There being a deep run of wa- ter in the way, one of our company being top heavy, and there being nothing but a small pole for a bridge, over a creek, fell into the water up to the chin ; myself laughing at the accident, and not taking good heed to my steps, came to the same misfortune. All our bedding was wet. The wind being at IN". W. it froze very hard, which prepared such a night's loding for me, that I nev- er desire to have the like again ; the wet bedding and freezing air had so qualified our bodies, that in the morning when we awaked we were nigh frozen to death, until we had recruited ourselves "before a large fire of the Indians. Tuesday morning we set towards the Congerees leaving the Indian guide Scipio, drunk amongst the Santee Indians. We went ten miles out of our way to head a great swamp, the freshes hav- ing filled them all with such quantities of water that the usual paths were rendered impassible. "We met in our way with an Indian hut, where we were entertained with a fat boiled goose, venison, raccoon and ground nuts. We made but little stay : about noon we passed by several large Sa- vannahs', wherein is curious ranges for cattle, be- ing green all the year ; they were plentifully stor- ed with cranes, geese, &c., and the adjacent woods with great flocks of turkeys. This day we trav- eled about thirty miles, and lay all night at a LAWSON'S HISTORY 35 house which was built for the Indian trade, the master thereof we had parted with at the French town, who gave us leave to make use of his man- sion. Such houses are common in these parts, and especially where there is Indian towns and plantations near at hand, which this place is well furnished withal. These Santee Indians are a well humored and affable people ; and living near the English, are become very tractable. They make themselves cribs after a very curious manner, wherein they secure their com from vermin, which are more frequent in these warm climates than countries more distant from the sun. These pretty fabrics are commonly supported with eight feet or posts about seven feet high from the ground, well daub- ed within and without upon laths, with loom or clay, which makes them tight and fit to keep out the smallest insect, there being a small door at the gable end, which is made of the same compo- sition, and to be removed at pleasure, being no bigger than that a slender man may creep in at, cementing the door up with the same earth when they take corn out of the crib, and are going from home, always finding their granaries in the same posture thy left them — theft to each other being altogether unpracticed, never receiving spoils but from foreigners. Hereabouts the ground is something higher than about Charlestown, there being found some quaries of brown, free stone, which I have seen 36 OP NORTH CAROLINA. made use of for building, and hath proved very durable and good. The earth here is mixed with white gravel, which is rare, there being nothing like a stone to be found of the natural produce, near to Ashley river. The next day about noon, we came to the side of a great swamp, where we were forced to strip ourselves to get over it, which, with much diffi- culty, we effected. Hereabouts the late gust of wind, which happened in September last, had torn the large cypress trees and timbers up by the roots, they lying confusedly in their branches, did block up the way, making the passage very difficult. This night we got to one Scipio's hut, a famous hunter. There was no body at home, but we hav- ing in our company one that had used to trade amongst them, we made ourselves welcome to what his cabbin afforded, (which is a thing com- mon) the Indians allowing it practicable to the English traders to take out of their houses what they need in their absence, in lieu whereoi they most commonly leave some small gratuity of to- bacco, paints, beads, &c. We found great store of Indian peas (a very good pulse) beans, oil, thinkapin nuts, corn, barbacued peaches, and peach bread, which peaches being made into a quiddony, and so made up into loaves like barley cakes, these cut into thin slices, and dissolved in water, makes a very grateful acid, and extraordi- nary beneficial in fevers, as has often been tried, 37 and approved on by our English practitioners. The wind being at IS". W., with cold weather, made us make a large fire in the Indian's cabin ; being very intent upon our cookery, we set the dwelling on fire, and with much a do put it out, though with the loss of part of the roof. The next day we traveled on our way, and about noon came up with a settlement of Santee Indians, there being plantations lying scattering here and there, for a great many miles. They came out to meet us, being acquainted with one of our com- pany, and made us very welcome with fat barba- cued venison, which the woman of the cabin took and tore in pieces with her teeth, so put it into a mortar, beating it to rags, afterwards stews it with water, and other ingredients, which makes a very savoury dish. At these cabins came to visit us the king of the Santee nation. He brought with him their chief doctor, or physician, who was warmly and neatly clad with a match coat, made of turkies feathers, which makes a pretty show, seeming as if it was a garment of the deepest silk shag. This doctor had the misfortune to lose his nose by the pox, which disease the Indians often get by the Eng- lish traders that use amongst them ; not but the natives of America have for many ages (by their own confession) been afflicted with a distemper much like the lues venerea, which hath all the symptoms of the pox, being different in this only, for I never could learn, that this country distem- OF NORTH CAROLINA. per, or yawes, is begun or continued with gon- orrhoea, yet is attended with nocturnal pains in the limbs, and commonly makes such a progress as to vent part of the matter by bothes, and seve- ral ulcers in the body, and other parts, oftentimes death ensuing. I have known mercurial ungu- ents and remedies work a cure, following the same methods as in the pox, several white people, but chiefly the Criolos, losing their palates and noses by this devouring vulture. It is epidemical, visiting these parts ot America which is often occasioned through the immoderate drinking of rum, by those that commonly drink water at other times. Cold night's lodging, and bad open houses, and more chiefly, by often wet- ting the feet and eating such quantities of pork as they do, which is a gross food, and a great propa- gator of such juices as it often meets withal inhu- man bodies, once tainted with this malady, which may differently (in some respects) act its tragedy, the change being occasioned by the difference of cli- mates and bodies as in Europe. We being well enough assured that the pox had its first rise (known to us) in this new world, it being caught of the Indian women by the Spanish soldiers that followed Columbus in one of his expeditions to America, who after their arrival in old Spain, were hastened to the relief of Naples, at that time besieged by the French. ^Provisions growing Bcarce, the useless people were turned out of the city, to lesson the mouths. Amongst these the LAWSON'S HISTORY 39 Curtesans were one part, who had frequently em- braced the Spaniards, being well fraught with riches by their new discovery. The leager ladies had no sooner lost their Spanish dons, but found themselves as well entertained by the French, whose camp they traded in, giving the monsieurs as large a share of the pocky spoils within their own lines, as the Spaniards had, who took the pains to bring it in their breeches as far as from America. The large supply of swine's flesh which that army was chiefly victualed withal, made it rage. The siege was raised. The French and Spaniards retreating to Flanders, which was a parade of all nations ; by which means this filthy distemper crowded itself into most nations of the known world. Now to return to our doctor, who, in the time of his affliction, withdrew himself (with one that, labored under the same distemper) into the woods. These two perfected their cures by proper vegeta- bles, &c., of which they have plenty, and are well acquainted with their specific virtue. I have seen such admirable cures performed by these savages, which would puzzle a great many graduate practitioners to trace their steps in heal- ing, with the same expedition, ease and success ; using no racking instruments in their chirurgy, nor nice rules of diet, and physic, to verify the saying, qui medice vivit, misere vivit. In wounds which penetrate deep and seem mortal, they order a spare diet, with drinking fountain water; if 40 OF NORTH CAROLINA. they perceive a white matter or pus to arise, they let the patient more at large, and presently cure him. After these two had performed their cures at no easier rate than the expense of both their no- ses, coming again amongst their old acquaintance so disfigured, the Indians admired to see them metamorphosed after that manner, enquired of them where they had been all that time, and what were become of their noses ? They made answer that they had been conversing with the white man above, (meaning God- Almighty,) how they were very kindly entertained by that great being ; he being much pleased with their ways, and had promised to make their capacities equal with the white people in making guns, amunition, &c., in retaliation of which they had given him their noses. The verity of which they yet hold, the Indians being an easy, credulous people, and most notoriously cheated by their priests and conjurers, both trades meeting ever in one person, and most commonly a spice of quackship added to the oth- er two ingredients, which renders that cunning kflave the impostor, to be more relied upon; thence a fitter instrument to cheat these ignorant people; the priest and conjurers being never ad- mitted to their practice, till years and the expe- rience of repeated services hath wrought their es- teem amongst the nations they belong to. The Santee King, who was in company with this no-nosed Dr., is the most absolute Indian ruler in LAWSON'S HISTORY 41 these parts, although he is head but of a small people, in respect to some other nations of Indians, that I have seen. He can put any of his people to death that hath committed any fault which he judges worthy of so great a punishment. This authority is rarely found amongst these savages, for they act not (commonly) by a determinative voice in their laws towards any one that hath com- mitted murder, or such other great crime, but take this method ; him to whom the injury was done, or if dead, the nearest of -his kindred, pros- ecutes by way of an actual revenge, being himself if opportunity serves his intent, both judge and executioner, performing so much mischief on the offender or his nearest relation, until such time that he is fully satisfied. Yet this revenge is not so infallible but it may be bought off with beads, tobacco, and such like commodities that are use- ful amongst them, though it were the most sable villainy that could be acted by mankind. Some that attend the king presented me with an odoriferous balsamic root, of a fragrant smell and taste, the name I know not. They chew it in the mouth, and by that simple application heal desperate wounds both green and old. That small quantity I had was given inwardly to those troubled with the belly ache, which remedy failed not to give present help, the pain leaving the pa- tients soon after they had taken the root. Near to these cabins are several tombs made after the manner of these Indians ; the largest 42 OF NORTH CAROLINA. and the chiefest of them was the sepulchre of the late Indian king of the Santees, a man of great power, not only amongst his own subjects, but dreaded by the neighboring nations for his great valor and conduct, having as large a prerogative in his way of ruling, as the present king I now spoke of. The manner of their interment is thus : A mole or pyramid of earth is raised, the mould thereof being worked very smooth and even, sometimes higher or lower, according to the dignity of the person whose monument it is, on the top thereof is an umbrella, made ridgeways, like the roof of an house, this is supported by nine stakes, or small posts, the grave being about six or eight feet in length and four feet in breadth ; about it is hung gourds, feathers, and other such like trophies, placed there by the dead man's relations, in re- spect to him in the grave. The other part of the funeral rites are thus : As soon as the party is dead, they lay the corps upon a piece of bark in the sun, seasoning or embalming it with a small root beaten to powder, which looks as red as ver- niillion ; the same is mixed with bear's oil to beau- tify the hair, and preserve their heads from being lousy, it growing plentifully in these parts of America. After the carcass has laid a day or two in the sun, they remove and lay it upon crotches cut on purpose, for the support thereof from the earth, then they annoint it all over with the foremen- tiojied ingredients of the powder of this root and LAWSON'S HISTORY 43 bear's oil. When it is so done, they cover it very exactly over with bark of the pine, or cypress tree. to prevent any rain to fall upon it, sweeping the ground very clean all about it. Some of his nearest of kin brings all the temporal estate he was possessed of at his death, as guns, bows and arrows, beads, feathers, match coat, &c. This re- lation is the chief mourner, being clad in moss and a stick in his hand, keeping a mournful ditty for three or four days, his face being black with smoke of pitch, pine mingled with bear's oil. All the while he tells the dead man's relations, and the rest of the spectators, who that dead person was, and of the great feats performed in his life- time ; all what he speaks, tending to the praise of the defunct. As soon as the flesh grows mel- low and will cleave from the bone, they get it oft' and burn it, making all the bones very clean, then annoint them with the ingredients aforesaid, wrapping up the skull (very carefully) in a cloth artificially woven of possom's hair. (These In- dians make girdles, sashes, garters, &c., after the same manner.) The bones they carefully preserve in a wooden box, every year oiling and cleansing them. By these means preserve them for many ages, that you may see an Indian in possession of the bones of his grand-father, or some of his rela- tions of a larger antiquity. They have other sorts of toombs, as where an Indian is slain, in that very place they make a heap of stones, (or sticks where stones are not to be found) to this memorial, every 44 OF NORTH CAROLINA. Indian that passes by, adds a stone to augment the heap, in respect to the deceased hero. We had a very large swamp to pass over near the house, and would have hired our landlord to have been our guide, but he seemed unwilling, so we pressed him no farther about it. He was the tallest Indian I ever saw, being seven feet high, and a very straight complete person, esteemed on by the king for his great art in hunting, always car- lying with him an artificial head to hunt withaL They are made of the head of a buck, the back part of the horns being scraped and hollow for the light- ness of carnage. The skin is left to the setting on of the shoulders, which is lined all round with small hoops, and flat sort of laths, to hold it open for the arms to go in. They have a way to pre- serve the eyes, as if living. The hunter puts on a match coat made of deer skin, with the hair on, and a piece of the white part of the deer skin that grows on the breast, which is fastened to the neck end of this stalking head, so hangs down. In these habiliments an Indian will go as near a deer as he pleases, the exact motions and behaviour of a deer being so well counterfeited by them, that several times it hath been known for two hunters to come up with a stalking head together, and unknown to each other, so that they have killed an Indian in- stead of a deer, which hath happened sometimes to be a brother or some dear friend; for which rea- son they allow not of that sort of practice where the nation is populous. LAWSON'S HISTORY 45 Within half a mile of the house we passed over a prodigious wide and deep swamp, being forced to strip stark naked, and much a do to save our- selves from drowning in this fatigue. We with much a do got through, going that day about five miles farther, and came to three more Indian cab- ins, called in the Indian tongue, Hickerau, by the English traders, the black house, being pleasantly seated on a high bank, by a branch of Santee riv- er. One of our company that had traded amongst these Indians told us that one of the cabins was his father-in-law's ; he called him so by reason the old man had given him a young Indian girl, that was his daughter, to lie with him, make bread, and to be necessary in what she was capable to as- sist him in, during his abode amongst them. When we came thither first there was no body at home, so the son made bold to search his fa- ther's granary for corn and other provisions. He brought us some Indian maiz and peas, which are of reddish color, and eat well, yet color the liquor they are boiled in as if it w^ere a lixivium of red tarter. After we had been about an hour in the house where was millions of fleas, the indian cab- ins being often fuller of such vermin, than any dog kennel, the old man came in to us, and seem 3d very giad to see his son-in-law. This Indian is a great conjuror, as appears by the sequel. The Seretee or Santee Indians were gone to war against the Hooks and Backbooks nations, living near the mouth of Winyan river. 46 OP NORTH CAROLINA. Those that were left at home, which are common- ly old people and children, had heard no news -a long time of their men at arms. This man, at the entreaty of these people, (being held to be a great sorcerer amongst them,) went to know what posture their fighting men were in. His exorcism was carried on thus : He dressed himself in a clean white 'dressed deer skin, a great fire being made in the middle of the plantation, the Indians sit- ting all around it, the conjuror was blindfold- ed, then he surrounded the fire several times I think thrice — leaving the company he went into the woods, where he stayed about half an hour, returning tfe them surrounded the fire as before ; leaving them, went the second time into the woods ; at which time there came a huge swarm of flies, very large, they flying about the fire sev- eral times, at last fell all into it, and were visibly consumed. Immediately after the Indian conju- ror made a huge lilleloo, and howling very fright- fully. Presently an Indian went and caught hold of him, leading him to the fire. The old wizzard was so feeble and weak, being not able to stand alone, and all over in a sweat, and as wet as if he had fallen into the river ; after some time he re- covered his strength, assuring them that their men wer near a river and could not pass over it till so many days, but would, in such a time, re- turn all in safety to thcr nation — all which prov- ed true at the Indians' return, which was 'not long LAWSON'S HISTORY 47 after. This story the Englishman, his son-in-law, affirmed to me. The old man staid with us about two hours, and told us we were welcome to stay there all night, and take what his cabin afforded; then leaving us, went into the woods to some hunting quarter not far off. The next morning early we pursued our voy- age, finding the land to improve itself in pleas- antness and richness of soil. When we had gone about ten miles one of our company tired, being not able to travel any farther; so we went for- ward, leaving the poor dejected traveler with tears in his eyes, to return to Charlestown, and travel back again over so much bad way, we having passed through the worst of our journey, the land here being high and dry, very few swamps and those dry and a little way through. We traveled about twenty miles, lying near a savanna that was overflown with water ; where we was very short of victuals, but finding the woods newly burnt, and on fire in many places, which gave us great hopes that Indians were not far off. Next morning, very early, we waded through the Savanna, the path lying there ; and about ten o' clock came to a hunting quarter of a great many Santees. They made us all welcome, showing a great deal of joy at our coming, giving us barbe- cued turkeys, bear's oil and venison. Here we hired Santee Jack, (a good hunter, and a well humored fellow) to be our pilot to the Con- 48 OF NORTH CAROLINA. geree Indians. We gave him a stroud water blew to mak^ his wife an Indian petticoat, who went with her husband. After two hours refreshment we went on, and got that day about twenty miles. "We lay by a small, swift run of water, which was paved at the bottom with a sort of stone much like to tripoli, and so light that I fancied it would precipitate in no stream but where it naturally grew. The weather was very cold, the winds hold- ing northerly. "We made ourselves as merry as we could, having a good supper with the scraps of venison we had given us by the Indians, having killed three teal and a possum, which medly, alto- gether, made a curious ragoo. This day all of us had a mind to have rested, but the Indian was much against it, alleging that the place we lay at was not good to hunt in, tell- ing us if we would go on, by noon he would bring us to a more convenient place, ^ so we moved for- wards, and about twelve o'clock came to the most amazing prospect I had seen since I had been in Carolina. We traveled by a swamp-side which swamp I believe to be no less than twenty miles over, the other side being as far as I could well discern, there appearing great ridges of mountains bearing from us ~N. ~N. "W. One Alp with a top like a sugar loaf, advanced its head above all the rest very considerably. The day was very serene which gave us the advantage of seeing a long way ; these mountains were clothed all over with trees which seemed to us to be very large timbers. LAWSON'S HISTORY 49 At the sight of this fair prospect we staid all night ; our Indian going about half an hour be- fore us, had provided three fat turkeys ere we got up to him. The swamp I now spoke of, is not a miry bog as others generally are, but you go down to it through a steep bank, at the foot of which begins this valley, where you may go dry for perhaps two hundred yards, then you meet with a small brook or run of water about two or three feet deep, then dry land for such another space, so an- other brook, thus continuing, the land in this po- coson, or valley, being extraordinary rich, and the runs of water well stored with fowl. It is the head of one of the branches of Santee river ; but a farther discovery time would not permit ; only one thing is very remarkable, there growing all over this swamp a tall, lofty bay tree, but is not the same as in England, these being in their ver- dure all the winter long ; which appears here, when you stand on the ridge, (where our path lay,) as if it were one pleasant, green field, and as even as a bowling green to the eye of the be- holder, being hemmed in on one side with these ledges of vast high mountains. Viewing the land here, we found an extraordin- ary rich, black mould, and some of a copper color, both sorts very good, the land in some places is much burthened with iron stone, here being great store of it, seemingly very good. The eviling springs, which are many in these parts, issuing A3 50 OF NORTH CAROLINA. out of the rocks, which water we drank of, it col- oring the excrements of travelers, by its chalybe- ate quality, as black as a coal. When we were all asleep in the beginning of the night, we were awakened with the dismalist and most hideous noise that ever pierced my ears. This sudden surprisal incapacitated us of guess- ing what this threatening noise might proceed from : but our Indian pilot, who knew these parts very well, acquainted us, that it was customary to hear such music along that swamp side, there being endless number of panthers, tigers, wolves and other beast of prey, which take this swamp for their abode ia the day, coming in whole droves to hunt the deer in the night, making this fright- ful ditty till day appears, then all is still as in oth- er places. The next day it proved a small drisly rain, which is rare, there happening not the tenth part of foggy falling weather towards these mountains as visits those parts near the sea board. The In- dian killed fifteen turkeys this day, there coming out of the swamp, about sun rising, flocks of these fowl, containing several hundred in a gang, who feed upon the acorns, it being most oak that grow in these woods. There are but very few pines in those quarters. Early the next morning, we set forward for the Congeree Indians — parting with that delicious prospect. By the way, our guide killed more tur- keys and two polecats, which he eat, esteeming LAWSON'S HISTORY ,51 them before fat turkeys. Some of the turkeys which we eat whilst we staied there, I believe weighed no less than forty pounds. The land we passsed over this day was most of it good, and the worst passable. At night we kill- ed a possum, being cloy'd with turkey, made a dish of that, which tasted much between young pork and veal ; their fat being as white as any I -ever saw. Our Indian having this day killed good store of provisions with his gun, he always shot with a sin- gle ball, missing but two shoots in about forty ; they being curious artists in managing a gun to make it carry either ball or shot, true. "When they have bought a piece, and find it to shoot any ways crooked, they take the barrel out of the stock, cutting a notch_in a tree) wherein they set it straight, sometimes shooting away above one hundred loads of ammunition, before they bring the gun to shoot according to their mind. We took up our quarters by a fish pond side ; the pits in the woods that stand full of water naturally breed fish in them, in great quantities. We cooked our supper, but having neither bread or salt, our fat turkeys began to be loathsome to us, although we were never wanting of a good appetite, yet a con- tinuance of one diet made ms weary. The next morning Santee Jack told us we •should reach the Indian settlement betimes that day. About noon we passed by several fair Sa- vannas, very rich and dry.; seeing great copses of 52 OF NORTH CAROLINA. many acres that bore nothing but bushes, about the bigness of box trees, which (in the season) af- ford great quantities of small, black berries, very pleasant fruit, and much like to our blues, or huckleberries, that grow on heaths in England. Hard by the Savannas we found the town, where we halted. There was not above one man left with the women, the rest being gone a hunting for the feast. The women were very busily en- gaged in gaming. The name or grounds of it I could not learn, though I looked on above two hours. Their arithmetic was kept with a heap of Indian grain. When their play was ended, the king, or Caffetta's wife, invited us into her cabin. The Indian kings always entertaining travelers, either English or Indian ; taking it as a great af- front, if they pass by their cabins and take up their quarters at any other Indian's house. The queen set victuals before us, which good compli- ment they use generally as soon as you come un- der their roof. The town consists not of above a dozen houses, they having other straggling plantations up and down the country, and are seated upon a small branch of Santee river. Their place hath curious dry marshes and Savannas adjoining to it, and would prove an exceeding thriving range for cat- tle, and hogs, provided the English were seated thereon. Besides, the land is good for plantations. These Indians are a small people, having lost much of their former numbers, by intestine broils, LAWSON'S HISTORY 53 but mostly by the small pox, which hath often visited them, sweeping away whole towns, occa- sioned by the immoderate government of them- •selves in their sickness, as I have mentioned be- fore, treating of the Sewees. Neither do I know any savages that have traded with the English but what have been great losers by this distemper. We found here good store of chinkapin nuts, which they gather in winter great quantities of, •drying them, so keep these nuts in great baskets for their use. Likewise hickerie nuts, which they beat betwixt two great stones, then sift them, so thicken their venison broth therewith, the small shells precipitating to the -bottom of the pot, whilst the kernel, in form of flower, mixes it with the liquor, both these nuts made into meal makes a curious soup, either with clear water, or in any meat broth. From the nation of Indians, until such times as you come to the Turkeiruros in ^NTorth Caroliifa, you will see no long moss upon the trees, which space of ground contains above five hundred miles. This seeming miracle in nature is occasioned by the highness of the land, it being dry and health- ful ; for though this most bears a seed in a sort of a small cod, yet it is generated in or near low swampy grounds. The Congerees are kind and affable to the Eng- lish. The Queen being very kind, giving us what rarities her cabin afforded, as loblolly made with Indian corn, and dried peaches. These Congerees 54 OF NORTH CAROLINA. have abundance of storks and cranes in their sa- vannas. They take them before they can fly, and breed them as tame and familiar as a dunghill fowl. They had a tame crane at one of these cabins, that was scarcely less than six feet in heighth. His head being round, with a shining, nat- ural crimson hue, which they all have. These are a very comely sort of Indians, there being a strange difference in the proportions and beauty of these heathens. Although their tribes or nations bor- der one upon another, yet you may discern as great an alteration in their features and disposi- tions, as you can in their speech, which generally proves quite different from each other, though their nations be not above ten or twenty miles in distance. The women here being as handsome as most I have met withal, being several fine fin- gered brounettos amongst them. These lasses stick not upon hand long, for they marry when ^fcry young, as at twelve or fourteen years of age. The English traders are seldom without an Indian female for his bed fellow, alleging these reasons as sufficient to allow of such familiarty, first, they being remote from any white people, that it pre- serves their friendship with the heathens, they es- teeming a white man's child much above one of their getting, the Indian misses ever securing her white friend provisions whilst he stays amongst them ; and lastly, this correspondence makes them learn the Indian tongue much the sooner, they being of the Frenchman's opinion, how that an LAWSON'S HISTORY 55 English wife teaches her husband more English in one night than a school master can in a week. We saw at the Gaffe tta's cabin the strangest spectacle of antiquity I ever knew, it being an old Indian squah, that had I been to have guessed at her age, by her aspect, old Parr's head (the Welch Methusalem) was a face in swadling clouts to hers. Her skin hung in reaves like a bag of tripe. By a fair competition, one might have justly thought it would have contained three such carcasses as hers then was. She had one of her hands con- tracted by some accident in the fire, they sleeping always by it, and often fall into sad disasters, espe- cially in their drunken moods. I made the strict- est enquiry that was possible, and by what I could gather, she was considerably above one hundred years old, notwithstanding she smoked tobacco and eat her victuals, to all appearances, as hearti- ly as one of eighteen. One of our company spoke some of their language, and having not quite for- gotten his former intrigues with the Indian lasses, would have been dealing with some of the young female fry ; but they refused him, he having noth- ing that these girls esteemed. At night we were laid in the king's cabin, where the queen and the old squah piged with us. The former was very much disfigured with tetters, and very reserved, which disappointed our fellow- traveler in his intrigues. The women smoke much tobacco, (as most In- dians do.) They have pipes whose heads are cut 56 OF NORTH CAROLINA. out of stone, and will hold an ounce of tobacco, and some much less. They have large wooden spoons, as big as small ladles, which they make little use of, lading the meat out of the bowles with their fingers. In the morning we rose before day, having hir- ed a guide over night to conduct us on our way ; but it was too soon for him to stir out, the Indi- ans never setting forward till the sun is an hour or two high and hath exhaled the dew from the earth. The queen got us a good breakfast before we left her ; she had a young child, which was much afflicted with the cholic ; for which distem- per she infused a root in water, which was held in a gourd ; this she took into her mouth and spurt- ed it into the infant's, which gave it ease. After we had eaten, we set out with our new guide, for the Wateree Indians. We went over a great deal of indifferent land this day. Here begins to ap- pear very good marble, which continues more and less for the space of five hundred miles. We lay all night by a run of water, as we always do if possible, for the convenience of it. The water was very cold. We went this day about thirty miles from the Congerees. In the morning we made no stay to get our breakfast, but hastened -on our voyage, the land increasing in marble and richness of soil. At noon we halted, getting our dinner upon a mar- ble stone, that rose itself half a foot above the surface of the earth, and might contain the com- LAWSON'S HISTORY 57 pass of a quarter an acre of land, being very even, there growing upon it in some places a small red berry, like a salmon spawn, there boiling out of the main rock curious springs of as delicious wa- ter as ever I drank in any parts I ever traveled in. These parts likewise affords good free stone, fit for building, and of several sorts. The land here is pleasantly seated, with pretty little hills and valleys, the rising sun at once showing his glori- ous reflecting rays on a great many of these little mountains. We went this day about twenty miles, our guide walking like a horse, 'till we had saddled him with a good heavy pack of some part of our clothes and bedding — by which means we kept pace with him. This night we lay by a run side, where I found a fine yellow earth, the same with Bruxel's sand, which goldsmiths use to cast withal, giving a good price in England and other parts ; here is like- wise the true blood stone and considerable quanti- ties of fuller's earth, which I took a proof of by scouring great spots out of woolen, and it proved very good. As we were on our road this morning our In- dian shot a tiger that crossed the way, he being a great distance from us, I believe he did him no harm, because he sat on his breech afterwards, and looked upon us. I suppose he expected to have had a spaniel bitch that I had with me, for his breakfast, who ran towards him, but in the B~8 58 OF NORTH CAROLINA. midway stopped her career, and came sneaking back to us with her tail betwixt her legs. We saw in the path a great many trees blown up by the roots, at the bottom thereof stuck great quantities of fine red bole : I belive nothing infe- rior to that of Venice or Lemma. We found some holes in the earth which were full of water as black as ink. I thought that tincture might proceed from some mineral, but had not time to make a farther discovery. About noon we passed over a pleasant stony brook, whose water was of a bluish cast, as it is for several hundreds of miles towards the heads of the rivers, I suppose occa- sioned by the vast quantities of marble lying in the bowels of the earth. The springs that feed these rivulets, lick up some portion of the stones in the brooks ; which dissolution gives this tinc- ture, as appears in all, or most of the rivers and brooks in this country, whose rapid streams are like those in Yorkshire and other northern. coun- tries of England. The Indians talk of many sorts of fish which they afford, but we had not time to discover their species. I saw here had been some Indian plantations formerly, there being several pleasant fields of cleared ground and excellent soil, now well spread with fine bladed grass, and strawberry vines. The mould here is excessive rich, and a coun- try very pleasing to the eye, had it the conven- ince of a navigable river, as all new colonies, of LAWSON'S HISTORY 59 necessity require, it would make a delightful set- tlement. "We went eight miles farther and came to the Wateree Chickanee Indians. The land holds good, there being not a spot of bad land to be seen in several days' going. The people of this nation are likely tall persons and great pilferers, slealing from us any thing they could lay their hands on, though very res- pectful in giving us what victuals we wanted. We lay in their cabins all night, being dark smo- ky holes as ever I saw any Indians dwell in. This nation is much more populous than the Con- gerees and their neighbors, yet understand not one another's speech. They are very poor in English effects, several of them having no guns, making use of bows and arrows, being a lazy, idle people, a quality incident to most Indians, but none to that degree as these, as I ever met with- al. Their country is wholy free from swamps and quagmires, being high dry land, and consequently healthful, producing large corn stalks, and fair grain. E~ext morning we took off our beards with a razor, the Indians looked on with a great deal of admiration. They told us they had never seen the like before, and that our knives cut far better than those that came amongst the Indians. They would fain have borrowed our razors as they had our knives, scissors and tobacco tongs the day be- 60 OF NORTH CAROLINA. fore, being as ingenious at picking of pockets as any, I believe, the world affords — for they will steal with their feet. Yesterday, one of our company, not walking so fast as the rest, was left behind. He being out of sight before we missed him, and not coming up to us, though we staid a considerable time on the road for him, we stuck up sticks in the ground, and left other tokens to direct him which way we were gone ; but he came not to us that night, which gave \is occasion to fear some of the heath- en had killed him for his clothes, or the savage beasts had devoured him in the wilderness, he having nothing about him to strike fire withal. As we were debating which way we should send to know what was become of him, he overtook us, having a "Waxsaw Indian for his guide. He told us he had missed the path and got to anoth- er nation of Indians but three miles off, who at that time held great feasting. They had enter- tained him very respectfully, and sent that Indi- an to invite us amongst them, wondering that we would not take up our quarters with them, but make our abode with such a poor sort of Indians, that were not capable of entertaining us accord- ing to our deserts. We received the messenger with a great many ceremonies acceptable to those sort of creatures. Bidding our "Wateree king adieu, we set forth towards the "Waxsaws, going along cleared ground all the way. Upon our arrival, we were led into LAWSON'S HISTORY 01 a very large and lightsome cabin, the like I have not met withal. They laid furs and deer skins upon cane benches for us to sit or lie upon, bring- ing immediately, stewed peaches and ^reen corn, that is preserved in their cabins beforejt is ripe, and sodden and boiled when they use^t, which is a pretty sort of food, and a great increaser of the blood. These Indians are of an extraordinary stature, and called by their neighbors flat heads, which seems a very suitable name for them. In their infancy, their nurses lay the back part of their children's heads on a bag of sand, (such as engra- vers use to rest their plates upon.) They use a roll which is placed upon the babies forehead, it being laid with its back on a flat board, and swad- dled hard down thereon, from one end of this en- gine to the other. This method makes the child's body and limbs as straight as an arrow, there be- ing some young Indians that are perhaps crooked- ly inclined, at their first coming into the world, who are made perfectly straight by this method. I never saw an Indian of mature age that was any ways crooked, except by accident, and that way seldom ; for they cure and prevent deformities of the limbs and body very exactly. The instrument I spoke of before being a sort of a press, that is let out and in, more or less, according to the dis- cretion of the nurse, in which they make the child's head flat: it makes the eyes stand a prodi- gious way asunder, and the hair hang over the 62 OP NORTH CAROLINA. forehead like the eves of a house, which seems very frightful. They being asked the reason why they practiced this method, replied, the Indian's sight was fciuch strengthened and quicker thereby to discer^lhe game in hunting at larger distance, and so ne^er missed of becoming expert hunters, the perfection of which they all aim at, as we do to become experienced soldiers, learned school-men, or artists in mechanics. He that is a good hunter never misses of being a favorite amongst the women ; the prettiest girl being always bestowed upon the chiefest sportsman, and those of a gross- er mould upon the useless lubbers. Thus they have a graduation amongst them, as well as other nations. As for the solemnity of marriages amongst them, kept with so much ceremony as divers au- thors affirm, it never appeared amongst those many nations I have been withal, any otherwise than in the manner I have mentioned hereaf- ter. The girls, at twelve or thirteen years of age, as soon as nature prompts them, freely bestow their maiden heads on some youth about the same age, continuing her favors on whom she most affects, changing her mate very often, few or none of them being constant to one, till a greater number of years has made her capable of managing do- mestic affairs, and she hath tried the vigor of most of the nation she belongs to. Multiplicity of gal- lants never being a stain to a female's reputation, or the least hinderance of her advancement ; but LAWSON'S IIISTOKY 63 the more whorrish, the more honorable, and they of all most coveted by those of the first rank to make wives of. The Flos Virginis, so much cov- eted by the Europeans, is never valued by these savages. When a man and woman have gone through their degrees, (there being a certain graduation amongst them,) and are allowed to be house keepers, which is not till they arrive at such an age, and have pass- ed the ceremonies practiced by their nation, al- most all kingdoms differing in the progress there- of, then it is that the man makes his address to some one of these thoroughpaced girls or other, whom he likes best. When she is won the parents of both parties (with advice of the king) agree about the matter, making a promise of their daugh- ter to the man that requires her, it often happen- ing that they converse and travel together for sev- eral moons before the marriage is published open- ly. After this, at the least dislike, the man may turn her away, and take another ; or if she disap- proves of his company, a price is set upon her, 'and if the man that seeks to get her, will pay the fine to her husband, she becomes free from him; likewise, some of their war captains, and great men, very often will retain three or four girls at a time for their own use, when at the same time he is so impotent and old, as to be incapable of making use of one of them, so that he seldom misses of wearing greater horns than the game he kills. The husband is never so enraged as to put 64 OF NORTH CAROLINA. his adulteress to death ; if she is caught in the fact, the rival becomes debtor to the cornuted hus- band, in a certain quantity of trifles, valuable amongst them, which he pays as soon as discharg- ed, and then all animosity is laid aside betwixt the husband and his wife's gallant. The man proves often so goodhumored as to please his neighbor and gratify his wife's inclinations, by letting her out for a night or two, to the embraces of some other, which perhaps she has a greater lik- ing to, though this is not commonly practiced. They set apart the youngest and prettiest faces for trading girls ; these are remarkable by their hair, having a particular tonsure by which they are known and distinguished from those engaged to husbands. They are mercenary, and whoever makes use of them, first hires them, the greatest share of the gain going to the king's purse, who is the chief bawd, exercising his prerogative over all the stews of his nation, and his own cabin very often, being the chiefest brothel house. As they grow in years, the hot assaults of love grow cooler ; and then they commonly are so staid, as to engage themselves with more constancy to each other. I have see*n several couples amongst them that have been so reserved, as to live together for many years, faithful to each other, admitting none to their beds but such as they owned for their wife or husband, so continuing to their life's end. At our "Waxsaw's landlord's cabin, was a wo- man employed in no other business than cookery, LAWSON'S HISTORY 65 it being a house of great" resort. The fire was sur- rounded with roast meet, or barbecues, and the pots continually boiling full of meat, from morn- ing till night. This she-cook was the cleanliest I ever saw amongst the heathens of America, washing her hands before she undertook to do any cookery ; and repeating this unusal decency very often in a day. She made us as white bread as any English could have done, and was full as neat and expeditious in her affairs. It happened to be one of their great feasts when we were there. The first day that we came amongst them, arrived an ambassador from the king of Sapona, to treat with these Indians about some important affairs. He was painted with vermilion all over his face, having a very large cutlass stuck in his girdle, and a fusee in his hand. At night the revels began, where- this foreign Indian was admitted. The king and war captain inviting us to see their mas- querade. This feast was held in commemoration of the plentiful harvest of corn they had reaped the summer before, with an united supplication for the like plentiful produce the year ensuing. These revels are carried on in a house made for that purpose, it being done round with white benches of fine canes, joining along the wall ; and a place for the door being left, which is so low that a man must stoop very much to enter there- in. This edifice resembles a large hay rick, its top being pyramidal, and much bigger than their other dwellings, and at the building wereof, every 66 OF NORTH CAROLINA. one assists till it is finished. All their dwelling houses are covered with Kark, but this differs very much ; for it is very artificially thatched with sedge and rushes. As soon as finished, they place some one of their chiefest men to dwell therein, charging him with the diligent preserva- tion thereof, as a prince commits the charge and government of a fort or castle, to some subject he thinks worthy of that trust. In these state houses is transacted all public and private business rela- ting to the affairs of the government, as the audi- ence of foreign ambassadors from other Indian ru- lers, consultation of waging and making war, pro- posals of their trade with neighboring Indians, or the English who happen to come amongst them. In this theatre, the most aged and wisest meet, determining what to act, and what may be most convenient to omit. Old age being held in as great veneration amongst these heathens, as amongst any people you shall meet withal in any part of the world. Whensoever an aged man is speaking, none ev- er interrupts him, (the contrary practice the Eng- lish and other Europeans too much use,) the com- pany yielding a great deal of attention to his tale with a continued silence and an exact demeanor, during the oration. Indeed, the Indians are a people that never interrupt one another in their discourse ; no man so much as offering to open his mouth till the speaker has uttered his intent : When an Englishman comes amongst them, per- LAWSON'S HISTORY 67 liaps every one is acquainted with him, yet, first, the king bids him welcome, after him the war cap- tain, so on gradually from high to low ; not one of all these speaking to the white guest, till his su- perior has ended his salutation. Amongst wo- men, it seems impossible to find a scold : if they are provoked or affronted, by their husbands, or some other, they resent the indignity offered them in silent tears, or by refusing their meat. "Would some of our European daughters of thunder set these Indians for a pattern, there might be more quiet families found amongst them, occasioned by that unruly member, the tongue. . Festination proceeds from the devil, says a learned doctor, a passion the Indians seem wholly free from ; they determining no business of moment without a great deal of deliberation and weariness. JSTone of their affairs appear to be attended with impetuosity or haste, being more content with the common accidents incident to human nature, (as losses, contrary winds, bad weather, and poverty,) than those of more civiliz- ed countries. Now, to return to our state house, whither we were invited by the grandees. As soon as we came into it, they placed our Englishmen near the king, it being my fortune to sit next him, having his great general or war captain on my other hand. The house is as dark as a dungeon, and as hot as one of the Dutch stoves in Holland. They had made a circular fire of split canes in 68 OP NORTH CAROLINA. the middle of the house, it was one man's employ- ment to add more split reeds to the one end as it consumed at the other, there being a small vacan- cy left to supply it with fuel. They brought in great store of loblolly and other medleys, made of indian grain, stewed peaches, bear venison, &c., every one bringing some offering to enlarge the banquet, according to his degree and quality. "When all the viands were brought in, the first figure began with kicking out the dogs, which are seemingly wolves made tame with starving and beating, they being the worst dog masters in the world ; so that it is an infallible cure for sore eyes, ever to see an Indian's dog fat. They are of a quite contrary disposition to horses. Some of their kings having gotten by great chance, a jade, stolen by some neighboring Indian, -and transported farther into the country and sold, or bought sometimes of a Christian that trades amongst them. These creatures they continually cram and feed with maiz, and what the horse will eat, till he is as fat as a hog — never making any farther use of him than to fetch a deer home, that is killed somewhere near the Indian's plant- ation. After the dogs had fled the room, the company was summoned by beat of drum ; the music being made of a dressed deer's skin, tied hard upon an earthen porridge pot. Presently in came fine men dressed up with feathers, their faces being cover- ed with vizards made of gourds ; round their an- LAWSON'S HISTORY 69 cles and kness were hung bells of several sorts ; having wooden falchions in their hands, (such as stage fencers commonly use) ; in this dress they danced about an hour, showing many strange gestures, and brandishing their wooden weapons as if they were going to fight each other ; often- times walking very nimbly round the room, with- out making the least noise with their bells, a thing I much admired at ; again turning their bo- dies, arms and legs, into such frightful postures, that you would have guessed they had been quite raving made : at last, they cut two or three high capers and left the room. In their stead came in a parcel of women and girls, to the number of thirty odd, every one taking place according to her degree of stature — the tallest leading the dance and the least of all being placed last ; with these they made a circular dance, like a ring rep- resenting the shape of the fire they danced about. Many of these had great horse bells about their legs and small hawk bells about their necks. — They had musicians, who were two old men, one of whom beat a drum, while the other rattled with a gourd that had corn in it to make a noise with- al. To these instruments they both sung a mourn- ful ditty ; the burthen of their song was, in re- membrance of their former greatness, and num- bers of their nation, the famous exploits of their renowned ancestors, and all actions of moment that had, in former days, been performed by their forefathers. 70 OF NORTH CAROLINA. At these festivals it is, that they give a tradi- tional relation of what hath passed amongst them, to the younger fry, these verbal deliveries being always published in their most public assemblies, serve instead of our traditional notes by the use of letters. Some Indians, that I have met withal, have given me a very curious description of the great deluge, the immortality of the soul, with a pithy account of the reward of good and wicked deeds in the life to come; having found amongst some of them, great observers of moral rules, and the law of nature ; indeed, a worthy founda- tion to build Christianity upon, w^ere a true meth- od found out and practiced for the performance thereof. Their way of dancing is nothing but a sort of stamping motion, much like the treading upon founder's bellows. This female gang held their dance for above six hours, being all of them of a white lather, like a running horse, that has just come in from his race. My landlady was the ring- leader of the Amazons, who, when in her own house, behaved herself very discreetly, and weari- ly in her domestic affairs ; yet, custom had so in- fatuated her, as to almost break her heart with dancing amongst such a confused rabble. During this dancing, the spectators do not neglect their business in working the loblolly-pots, and the oth- er meat that was brought thither ; more or less of them being continually eating, whilst the others were dancing*. When the dancing was ended, eve- LAWSON'S HISTORY 71 ry youtli that was so disposed, catched hold of the girl he liked best, and took her that night for his bed fellow, making as short courtship and expedi- tious weddings, as the foot guards used to do with the trulls in Salisbury court. Next we shall treat of the land hereabouts, which is a marl as red as blood, and will lather like soap. The town stands on this land, which holds considerably farther in the country, and is, in my opinion, so durable that no labor of man in one or two ages, could make it poor. I have for- merly seen the like in Leicestershire, bordering upon Rutland. Here are corn stalks in their fields as thick as the small of a man's leg, and they are ordinarily to be seen. We lay with these Indians one night, there be- ing by my bedside one of the largest iron pots I had ever seen in America, which I much wondered at, because I thought there might be no navigable stream near that place. I asked them where they got that pot. They laughed at my demand and would give me no answer, which makes me guess it came from some wrecu, and that we were nearer the ocean or some great river than I thought. The next day, about noon, we accidentally met with a southward Indian amongst those that used to trade backwards and forwards, and spoke a little English, whom we hired to go with us to the Esaw Indians, a very large nation, containing many thousand people. 72 OF NORTH CAROLINA. In the afternoon we set forward, taking our leaves of the Wisack Indians, and leaving them some tri- fles. On our way we met with several towns of Indians, each town having its theatre, or state house ; such houses being found all along the road till you come to Sapona, and then no more of those buildings, it being about one hundred and seventy miles. We reached ten miles this day, lying at another town of the Wisacks. The man of the house offered us skins to sell, but they were two heavy burdens for our long voyage. Next morning we set out early, breaking the ice we met withal in the stony runs, which were ma- ny. "We passed by several cottages, and about 8 o'clock came to a pretty big town, where we took up our quarters in one of their state houses. The men being all out hunting in the woods, and none but women at home. Our fellow traveler, of whom I spoke before at the Congerees, having a great mind for an Indian lass for his bed fellow that night, spoke to our guide, who soon got a couple, reserving one for himself. That which fell to our compan- ion's share was a pretty young girl. Though they could not understand one word of what each other spoke, yet the female Indian being no novice at her game, but understanding what she came thither for, acted her part dexterously enough with her cully, to make him sensible of what she wanted, which was to pay the hire before he rode the hack- ney. He showed her all the treasure he was pos- sessed of, as beads, red cadis, &c., which she liked LAWSON'S HISTORY 73 very well, and permitted him to put them into his pocket again, endearing him with all the charms which one of a "better education than dame nature had bestowed upon her, could have made use of to render her consort a surer captive. After they had used this sort of courtship a small time, the match was confirmed by both parties, with the ap- probation of as many Indian women as came to the house to celebrate our "Winchester wedding. Every one of the bride maids were as great whores as Mrs. Bride, though not quite so handsome. Our happy couple went to bed together before us all, and with as little blushing as if they had been man and wife for seven years. The rest of the company, being weary with traveling, had more mind to take their rest, than add more weddings to that hopeful one already consummated; so that, though the other virgins offered their service to us, we gave them their answer and went to sleep. About an hour before day, I awaked and saw some- body walking up and down the room, in a seem- ingly deep melancholy. I called out to know who it was, and it proved to be Mr. Bridegroom, who, in less than twelve hours, was batchelor, husband, and widower, his dear spouse having picked his pocket of the beads, cadis, and what else should have gratified the Indians for the victuals we re- ceived of them : however, that did not serve her turn, but she had also got his shoes away, which he had made the night before, of a dressed buck- skin. Thus early did our spark already repent his A4 74 OF NORTH CAROLINA. new bargain — walking barefoot in his penitentials, like some poor pilgrim to Loretto. After the Indians had laughed their sides sore at the figure Mr. Bridegroom made, with much ado, we mustered up another pair of shoes or mog- gisons, and set forward on our intended voyage, all the way lifting up their prayers for the new married couple, whose wedding had made away with that which should have purchased our food. Relying wholly on Providence, we marched on, now and then paying our respects to the new married man. The land held rich and good ; in many places there were great quantities of marble. The water was still of wheyish color. About ten o'clock we waded through a river about the bigness of Derwent, in Yorkshire, which I took to be one of the branch- es of Winjaw river. We saw several flocks of pi- geons, fieldfares and thrushes, much like those of Europe. The Indians of these parts use sweat- ing very much. If any pain seize their limbs or body, immediately they take reeds or small wands and bend them umbrella fashion, covering them with skins and match coats ; they have a large fire not far off, wherein they heat stones, or where they are wanting, bark ; putting it into this stove, which casts an extraordinary heat, there is a pot of water in the bagnio, in which is put a bunch of an herb, bearing a silver tassel, not much unlike the aurea virga. With this vegetable they rub the head, temples and other parts, which is reckoned a pre- server of the sight and strengthener of the brain. LAWSOS'S HISTORY 75 We went this day about twelve miles, one of our company being lame of his knee. We passed over an exceeding rich tract of land, affording plenty of great free stones,marblerocks and abound- ing in many plesant and delightsome rivulets. At noon we stayed and refreshed ourselves at a cabin, where we met with one of their war cap- tains, a man of great esteem among them. At his departure from the cabin, the man of the house scratched this war captain on the shoulder, which is looked upon as a very great compliment among them. The captain went two or three miles on our way with us, to direct us in our path. One of our company gave him a belt, which he took very kindly, bidding us call at his house, which was in our road, and stay till the lame traveler was well, and speaking to the Indian to order his servant to make us welcome. Thus we parted, he being on his journey to the Congerees and Savannas, a famous, warlike, friendly nation of Indians, living to the south end of Ashley river. He had a man slave with him who was loaded with European goods, his wife and daughter being in company. He told us, at his departure, that James had sent knots to all the Indians thereabouts, for every town to send in ten skins, meaning Captain Moor, then Governor of South Carolina. The towns being very thick hereabouts, at night we took up our quarters at one of the chief men's houses, which was one of the theatres I spoke of -before. There ran, hard by this town, a pleasant river, not very 70 OP NORTH CAROLINA. large, but, as the Indians told us, well stored with fish. We being now among the powerful nation of Esaws, our landlord entertained us very cour- teously* showing uSj that night, a pair of leather gloves which he had made ; and comparing them with ours, they proved to be very ingeniously done, considering it was the first trial. In the morning, he desired to see the lame man's affected part, to the end he might do something which lie believed would give him ease, after he had viewed it accordingly, he pulled out an instru- ment, somewhat like a comb, which was made of a split reed, with fifteen teeth of rattlesnakes, set at much the same distance as in a large horn. comb. "With these he scratched the place where the lame- ness chiefly lay till the blood came,, bathing it both before and after incision, with warm water spurted out of his mouth, this done, he ran in- to his plantation and got some sassafras root, which grows here in great plenty, dried it in the em- bers, scraped off the outward rind, and having beat it betwixt two stones, applied it to the part afflicted, binding it up well. Thus in a day or two, the patient became sound. This day we passed through a great many towns and settle- ments that belong to the Sugeree Indians, no bar- ren land being found amongst them, but great plenty of free stone and good timber. About three in the afternoon we reached the Kadapau king's house, where we met with one John Stewart, a Scot, then an inhabitant of James river, in Vir- LAWSON'S HISTORY 7T ginia, who had traded there for many years, being alone, and hearing that the Sinnagers (Indians from Canada) were abroad in that country, he durst not venture homewards till he saw us, having heard that we were coming above twenty days before. It is very odd that news should fly so swiftly among these people. Mr. Stewart had left Virginia ever since the October before, and had lost a day of the week, of which we informed him. He had brought seven horses along with him, loaded with English goods for the Indians, and having sold most of his cargo, told us if we would stay two nights he would go along with us. Company being very acceptable, we accepted the proposal. The next day we were preparing for our voyage and baked some bread to take along with us, our landlord was king of 'the Kadapau Indians, and always kept two or three trading girls in his cabin. Offering one of these to some of our company, who refused his kindness, his majesty flew into a vio- lent passion, to be thus slighted, telling the Eng- lishmen that they were good for nothing. Our old gamester, particularly, hung his ears at the propo- sal, having too lately been a loser by that sort of merchandise. It was observable that we did not see one partridge from the "Waterees to this place, though my spaniel bitch, which I had with me in this voyage, had put up a great many before. On Saturday morning we all set out for Sapona, killing in these creeks, several ducks of a strange 78 OF NORTH CAROLINA. kind, having a red circle about their eyes, like some pigeons that I have seen, a top-not reach- ing from the crown of their heads almost to the middle of their backs, and abundance of feathers of pretty shades and colors, they proved excellent meat. Likewise here is good store of woodcocks, not so big as those in England, the feathers of the breast being of a carnation color, exceeding ours for delicacy of food. The marble here is of differ- ent colors, some or other of the rocks represent- ing most mixtures, but chiefly the white having black and blue veins in it, and some that are red. This day we met with seven heaps of stones, be- ing the monuments of seven Indians that were slain in that place by the Sinnagers or Troquois. Our Indian guide added a stone to each heap. We took up our lodgings near a brook side, where the Virginia man's horses got away and went back to the Kadapaus. This day one of our company, wTith a Sapona Indian, who attended Stewart, went back for the horses. In the mean time, we went to shoot pi- geons which were so numerous in these parts that you might see many millions in a flock; they sometimes split off the limbs of stout oaks and oth- er trees upon which they roost of nights. You may find several Indian towns of not above seven- teen houses, that have more than one hundred gal- lons of pigeon's oil or fat ; they using it with pulse or bread as we do butter, and making the ground as white as a sheet with their dung. The Indians LAWSON'S HISTORY 79 take a light and go among them in the night and bring away some thousands, killing them with long poles, as they roost in the trees. At this time of the year, the flocks as they pass by, in great measure, obstruct the light of the day. On Monday we went twenty-five miles, travel- ing through a pleasant, dry country, and took up our lodgings by a hill side that was one entire rock, out of which gushed out pleasant fountains of well tasted water. The next day, still passing along such land as we had done for many days before, which was hills and valleys, about ten o'clock we reached the top of one of these mountains, which yielded us a fine prospect of a very level country, holding so on all sides farther than we could discern. When we came to travel through it, we found it very stiff and rich, being a sort of marl. This valley afforded as large timber as any I ever met withal, especially of chesnut oaks, which render it an ex- cellent country for raising great herds of swine. Indeed, were it cultivated, we might have good hopes of as pleasant and fertile a valley, as any our English in America afford. At night we lay by a swift current, where we saw plenty of turkeys, but perched upon such lofty oaks that our guns would not kill them, though we shot very often, and our guns were very good. Some of our company shot several times at one turkey before he would fly away — the pieces being loaded with large goose shot. 80 OF NORTH CAROLINA. IsText morning we got our breakfast, roasted acorns being one of the dishes. The Indians beat them into meal and thicken their venison broth with them, and oftentimes make a palatable soup. They are used instead of bread, boiling them till the oil swims on the tap of the water, which they preserve for use, eating the acorns with flesh meat. We traveled this day about twenty-five miles over pleasant savanna ground, high and dry, having very few trees upon it, and those standing at a great distance. The land was very good and free from grubs or underwood. A man near Sa- pona may more easily clear ten acres of ground, than in some places he can one ; there being much loose stone upon the land, lying very con- venient for making of dry walls or any other sort of durable fence. The country abounds likewise with curious, bold creeks, navigable for small craft, disgorging themselves into the main rivers that vent themselves into the ocean. These creeks are well stored with sundry sorts offish and fowl, and are very convenient for the transportation of what commodities this place ma}^ produce. This night we had a great deal of rain with thunder and lightning. Next morning it proving delicate w^eather, three of us separated ourselves from the horses and the rest of the company, and went directly for Sapona town. That day we passed through a delicious coun- try— none that I ever saw exceeds it. We saw LAWSON'S HISTORY 81 fine blacled grass six feet high, along the banks of these pleasant rivulets. We passed by the sepul- chres of several slain Indians. Coming that clay about thirty miles, we reached the fertile and pleasant banks of Sapona river, whereon stands the Indian town and fort; nor could all Europe afford a pleasanter stream, were it inhabited by Christians and cultivated by ingenious hands. These Indians live in a clear field about a mile square, which they would have sold me ; because I talked sometimes of coming into those parts to live. This most pleasant river may be something broader than the Thames at Kingston, keeping a continual pleasant warbling noise, with its rever- berating on the bright marble rocks. It is beau- tified with a numerous train of swans and other sorts of water fowl, not common though extraor- dinary pleasing to the eye. The forward spring welcomed us with her in- numerable train of small choristers which inhabit those fair banks ; the hills redoubling and adding sweetness to their melodious tunes by their shrill echoes. One side of the river is hemmed in with moun- tainy ground, the other side proving as rich a soil to the eye of a knowing person with us, as any this western world can afford. We took up our quarters at the king's cabin who was a good friend to the English, and had lost one of his eyes, in their vindication, being upon, his march towards the Appalatche moun- B4 82 OF NORTH CAROLINA. tains, amongst a nation of Indians in their way, there happened a difference while they were measuring of gun powder, and the powder by ac- cident taking fire, blew out one of this king's eyes and did a great deal more mischief upon the spot. Yet this Sapona king stood firmly to the Englishman's interest, with whom he was in com- pany, still siding with him against the Indians. They were intended for the South sea, but were too much fatigued by the vast ridge of mountains, though they hit the right passage ; it being no less than five day's journey through a ledge of rocky hills and sandy deserts. And which is yet worse, there is no water nor scarce a bird to be seen during your passage over these barren crags and valleys. The Sapona river proves to be the west branch of Cape Fear or Clarendon river, whose inlet with other advantages, makes it appear as noble a river to plant a colony in, as any I have met withal. The Saponas had (about ten days before we came thither) taken five prisoners of the Sinnagers or Jennitos, a sort of people that range several thousands of miles, making all prey they lay their hands on. These are feared by all the savage na- tions I ever was among, the westward Indians dreading their approach. They are all sorted in, and keep continual spies and outguards for their better security. Those captives they did intend to burn, few prisoners of war escaping that pun- LAWSON'S HISTORY 83 ishment. The fire of pitch pine being got ready, and a feast appointed, which is solemnly kept at the time of their acting this tragedy, the sufferer has his body stuck thick with lightwood splinters, which are lighted like so many candles, the tor- tured person dancing round a great fire till his strength fails, and disables him from making them any farther pastime. Most commonly, these wretches behave themselves, in the midst of their tortures with a great deal of bravery and resolu- tion, esteeming it satisfaction enough to be assured that the same fate will befall some of their tormen- tors, whensoever they fall into the hands of their nation. More of this you will have in the other sheets. The Toteros, a neighboring nation, came down from the westward mountains to the Sapo- na's, desiring them to give them those prisoners into their hands, to the intent they might send them back into their own nation, being bound in gratitude to be serviceable to the Sinnagers, since not long ago, those northern Indians had taken some of the Toteros prisoners and done them no harm, but treated them civilly whilst among them, sending them, with safety, back to their own peo- ple, and affirming that it would be the best meth- od to preserve peace on all sides. At that time these Toteros, Saponas, and the Keyauwees, three small nations, were going to live together, by which they thought they should strengthen them- selves and become formidable to their enemies. The reason offered by the Toteros being heard, 84 OF NORTH CAROLINA. the Sapona king, with the consent of his counsel- lors, delivered the Sinnagers up to the Toteros to conduct them. home. Friday morning the old king having showed us two of his horses that were as fat as if they had belonged to the dutch troopers, left us and went to look after his beaver traps, there being abun- dance of those amphibious animals in this river and the creeks adjoining. Taken with the pleas- antness of the place, we walked along the river side, where we found a very delightful island made by the river and a branch ; there being sev- eral such plots of ground environed with this sil- ver stream, which are fit pastures for sheep, and free from any offensive vermin. Xor can any thing be desired by a contented mind as to a pleas- ant situation, but what may here be found ; every step presenting some new object, which still adds invitation to the traveler in these parts. Our In- dian king and his wife entertained us very respect- fully. On Saturday the Indians brought in some swans and geese, which we had our share of. One of their doctors took me to his cabin and showed me a great quantity of medical drugs, the product of those parts ; relating their qualities as to the emunctories they worked by, and what great mala- dies he had healed by them. This evening came to us the horses with the remainder of our compa- ny, their Indian guide (who was a youth of this LAWSON'S HISTORY 85 nation) having killed in their way a very fat doe, part of which they brought to us. This day the king sent out all his able hunters to kill game for a great feast that was to be kept at their departure from the town, which they of- fered to sell me for a small matter. That piece of ground, with a little trouble, wxnild make an Englishman a most curious settlement, containing above a mile square of rich land. This evening- came down some Toteros, tall, likely men, having great plenty of buffaloes, elks, and bears, with oth- er sort of deer amongst them, which strong food makes large, robust bodies. Enquiring of them if they never got any of the bezoar stone, and giv- ing them a description ho wit was found ; the In- dians told me, they had great plenty of it, and asked me what use I could make of it ? I answer- ed them that the white men used it in physic, and that I would buy some of them if they would get it against I came that way again. Thereupon, one of them pulled out a leather pouch wherein was some of it in powder ; he was a notable hunter, and affirmed to me that that powder blown into the eyes, strengthened the sight and brain exceed- ingly, that being the most common use they made of it. I bought, for two or three flints, a large peach loaf, made up with a pleasant sort of seed, and this did us a singular kindness in our journey. Near the town, within their cleared land, are several bagnios, or sweating houses, made of stone, in 86 OF NORTH CAROLINA. shape like a large oven. These they make much use of; especially for any pains in the joints, got by cold or traveling. At night, as we lay in our beds, there arose the most violent K". "W. wind I ever knew. The first puff blew down all the pa- lifadoes that fortified the town ; and I thought it would have blown us all into the river, together with the houses. Our one-eyed king, who pre- tends much to the art of conjuration, ran out in the most violent hurry, and in the middle of the town, fell to his necromantic practice ; though I thought he would have been blown away or killed, before the devil and he could have exchanged half a dozen words : but in two minutes the wind was ceased, and it became as great a calm as ever I knew in my life. As I much admired at that sud- den alteration, the old man told me that the devil was very angry, and had done thus because they had not put the Sinnagers to death. On Monday morning our whole company, with the horses, set out from the Sapona Indian town, after having seen some of the locust, which is got- ten thereabouts, the same sort that bears honey. Going over several creeks, very convenient for water mills, about eight miles from the town we passed over a very pretty river, called Rocky river, a fit name, having a ridge of high mountains run- ning from its banks to the eastward, and disgorg- ing itself into Sapona river, so that there is a most pleasant and convenient neck of land betwixt both rivers, lying upon a point where many thousand LAWSON'S HISTORY 87 acres may be fenced in, without much cost or la- bor. You can scarce go a mile without meeting with one of these small, swift currents, here being no swamp to be found, but pleasant, dry roads all over the country. The way that we went this day was as full of stones as any which craven in the west of Yorkshire could afford ; and having nothing but moggisons on my feet, I was so lamed by this stony way that I thought I must have taken up some stay in those parts. We went this day not above fifteen or twenty miles. After we had sup- ped and all lay down to sleep, there came a wolf close to the fireside where we lay. My spaniel soon discovered him, at which one of our company fired a gun at the beast ; but I believe there was a mistake in the loading of it, for it did him no harm. The wolf stayed till he had almost load- ed again, but the bitch making a great noise, at last left us and went aside. We had no sooner laid down, but he approached us again, yet was more shy, so that we could not get a shot at him. i^ext day we had fifteen miles farther to the Keyauwees. The land is more mountainous, but extremely pleasant, and an excellent place for the breeding sheep, goats, and horses, or mules, if the English were once brought to the experience of the usefulness of those creatures. The valleys are here very rich. At noon we passed over such another stony river, as that eight miles from Sapona. This is called Heigh waree, and affords as good blue stone for mill stones as that from Cologn, good 88 OF NORTH CAROLINA. rags, some hones and large pebbles in great abun- dance, besides free stone of several sorts ; all very useful. I knew one of these hones made use of by an acquaintance of mine, and it proved rather better than any from old Spain or elsewhere. The veins of marble are very large and curious on this river and the banks thereof. Five miles from this river, to the N". "W., stands the Keyauwees town. They are fortified in with wooden puncheons, like Sapona, being a people much of the same number. Nature has so forti- fied this town with mountains, that were it a seat of war, it might easily be made impregnable ; having large corn fields joining to their cabins, and a savanna near the town at the foot of these mountains, that is capable of keeping some hun- dred heads of cattle. And all this environed round with very high mountains, so that no hard wind ever troubles these inhabitants. Those high cliffs have no grass growing on them, and very few trees, which are very short, and stand at a great distance one from another. The earth is of a red color and seems to me to be wholly designed by nature for the production of minerals, being of too hot a quality to suffer any verdure upon its surface. These Indians make use of lead ore to paint their faces withal, which they get in the neighboring mountains. As for the refining of metals, the Indians are wholly ignorant of it, being content with the realgar. But if it be my chance once more to visit these hilly parts, I shall make a Ion- . LAWSON'S HISTORY 89 ger stay amongst them : For were a good vein of lead found out, and worked by an ingenious hand, it might be of no small advantage to the under- taker, there being great convenience for smelting, either by bellows or reverberation, and the work- ing of these mines might discover some that are much richer. At the top of one of these mountains is a cave that one hundred men may sit very conveniently to dine in, whether natural or artificial I could not learn. There is a fine bole between this place and the Saps. These valleys, thus hemmed in with mountains, would, doubtless, prove a good place for propagating some sort of fruits, that our easter- ly winds commonly blast. The vine could not miss of thriving well here ; but we of the northern climate are neither artists, nor curious in propa- gating that pleasant and profitable vegetable. K"ear the town is such another current as Ileighwa- ree. We being six in company, divided ourselves into two parties ; and it was my lot to be at the house of Keyauwees Jack, who is king of that people. He is a Congeree Indian, and ran away when he was a boy. He got this government by marriage with the queen ; the female issue carrying the heritage, for fear of imposters ; the savages well knowing how much frailty pos- sesses the Indian women, betwixt the garters and the girdle. 90 OP NORTH CAROLINA. The next day, having some occasion to write, the Indian king who saw me, believed that he could write as well as I. Whereupon I wrote a word, and gave it to him to copy, which he did with more exactness than any European could have done that was illiterate. It was so well that he who could read mine, might have done the same by his. Afterwards he took great delight in making fish hooks of his own invention, which would have been a good piece for an antiquary to have puzzled his brains withal, in tracing out the characters of all the oriental tongues. He sent for several Indians to his cabin to look at his han- dy work, and both he and they thought I could read his writing as well as I could my own. I had a manual in my pocket that had king David's picture in it, in one of his private retirements. The Indian asked me who that figure represented. I told him it was the picture of a good king, that lived, according to the rules of morality, doing to all as he would be done by, ordering all his life to the service of the Creator of all things ; and being now above us all in heaven, with God Al- mighty, who had rewarded him with all the de- lightful pleasures imaginable in the other world, for his obedience to him in this. I concluded with telling them, that we received nothing here below, as food, raiment, &c., but what came from that Omnipotent being. They listened to my discourse with a profound silence, assuring me that they be- lieved what I said to be true. LAWSON'S HISTORY 91 No man living will ever be able to make these heathens sensible of the happiness of a future state, except he now and then mentions some lively carnal representation, which may quicken their ap- prehensions and make them thirst after such a gainful exchange ; for, were the best lecture that ever was preached by man, given to an ignorant sort of people in a more learned style than their mean capacities are able to understand, the in- tent would prove ineffectual, and the hearers would be left in a greater labyrinth than their teacher found them in. But dispense the precepts of our faith according to the pupil's capacity, and there is nothing in our religion but what an indifferent reason is, in some measure, able to comprehend ; though a !N"e\v England minister blames the French Jesuits for this way of proceeding, as be- ing quite contrary to a true Christian practice, and affirms it to be no ready or true method to estab- lish a lively representation of our Christian belief amongst these infidels. All the Indians hereabouts carefully preserve the bones of the flesh they eat and burn them, as being of opinion that if they omitted that custom the game would leave their country, and they should not be able to maintain themselves by their hunt- ing. Most of these Indians wear mustaches or whiskers, which is rare ; by reason the Indians are a people that commonly pull the hair of their faces and other parts, up by the roots and suffer none to grow, 92 OF NORTH CAROLINA. Here is plenty of chesnuts which are rarely found in Carolina, and never near the sea or salt water, though they are frequently in such places in Virginia. At the other house where our fel- low travelers lay, they had provided a dish in great tashion amongst the Indians, which was two young fawns taken out of the does' bellies, and boiled in the same slimy bags nature had placed them in, and one of the country hares, stewed with the guts in her belly, and her skin with the hair on. This new fashioned cookery wrought abstinence in our fellow travelers, which I somewhat wondered at, because one of them made nothing of eating alle- gators as heartily as if it had been pork and tur- nips. The Indians dress most things after the woodcock fashion, never taking the guts out. At the house we lay at, there was. very good enter- tainment of venison, turkies and bears ; and which is customary amongst the Indians. The Queen had a daughter by a former husband, who was the beautifulest Indian I ever saw, and had an air of majesty with her quite contrary to the general carriage of the Indians. She was very kind to the English during our abode, as well as her fathor and mother. This morning most of our company having some inclination to go straightaway for Virginia, when they left this place, land one more took our leaves of them, resolving (with God's leave) to see North Carolina, one of the Indians setting us in our way. The rest being indifferent which way they went, LAW-SON'S *HISTORY 93 desired us, by all means, to leave a letter for them at the Achonechy town. The Indian that put us in our path, had been a prisoner amongst the Sin- nagers, but had outrun them, although they had cut his toes and half his feet away, which is a prac- tice common amongst them. They first raise the skin, then cut away half the feet, and so wrap the skin over the stumps and make a present cure of the wounds. This commonly disables them from making their escape, they being not so good trav- elers as before, and the impression of their half feet making it easy to trace them ; however, this fellow was got clear of them, but had little heart to go far from home, and carried always a case of pis- tols in his girdle, besides a cutlass and a fuzee. Leaving the rest of our company at the Indian town, we traveled that day about twenty miles, in very cold frosty weather ; and passed over two pretty rivers, something bigger than Ileighwaree, but not quite so stony. We took these two rivers to make one of the northward branches of Cape Fair river, but afterwards found our mistake. The next day we traveled over very good land, but full of freestone and marble, which pinched our feet severely. We took up our quarters in a sort of savanna ground that had very few trees in it. The land was good and had several quarries of stone, but not loose as the others used to be. $~ext morning we got our breakfast of parched corn, having nothing but that to subsist on for above one hundred miles. All the pine trees were 94 OP NORTH CAROLINA. vanished, for we had seen none for two days. We passed through a delicate rich soil this day ; no great hills, but pretty risings and levels, which made a beautiful country. We likewise passed over three rivers this day, the first about the big- ness of Rocky river, the other not much differing in size. Then we made not the least question, but we had passed over the northwest branch of Cape Fair, traveling that day above thirty miles. We were much taken with the fertility and pleas- antness of the neck of land between these two branches, and no less pleased that we had passed the river which used to frighten passengers from fording it. At last determining to rest on the other side of a hill which we saw before us ; when we were on the top thereof, there appeared to us such another delicious, rapid stream as that of Sa- pona, having large stones, about the bigness of an ordinary house, lying up and down the river. As the wind blew very cold at IS". W. and we were very weary and hungry, the swiftness of the cur- rent gave us some cause to fear ; but, at last, we concluded to venture over that night. Accordingly we stripped, and with great difficulty, (by God's assistance) got safe to the north side of the famous Hau river, by some called Reatkin ; the Indians differing in the names of places according to their several nations. It is called Hau river from the Sis- sipahau Indians, who dwell upon this stream, which is one of the main branches of Cape Fair, there being rich land enough to contain some LAWSON'S HISTORY 95 thousands of families ; for which reason I hope, in a short time, it will be planted. This river is much such another as Sapona, both seeming to run a vast way up the country. Here is plenty of good timber, and especially of a scaly barked oak ; and as there is stone enough in both rivers, and the land is extraordinary rich, no man that will be content within the bounds of reason, can have any grounds to dislike it. And they that are other- wise are the best neighbors when farthest oft'. As soon as it was day we set out for the Acho- nechy town, it being, by estimation, twenty miles off, which I believe is pretty exact. We were got about half way, (meeting great gangs of tur- kies) when we saw at a distance, thirty loaded horses, coming on the road, with four or five men, on other jades driving them. "We charged our pieces and went up to them ; enquiring whence they came from ? they told us from Virginia. The leading man's name was Massey, who was born about Leeds in Yorkshire. He asked from whence we came ? We told him. Then he asked again, whether we wanted anything that he had ? telling us we should be welcome to it. We accepted of two wheaten biscuits, and a little ammunition. He advised us by all means, to strike down the country for Ronoack, and not think of Virginia, because of the Sirmagers, of whom they were afraid, though so well armed and numerous. They persuaded us also to call upon one Enoe Will, as we went to Adshueheer, for that he would conduct 9G OF NORTH CAROLINA. us safe among the English, giving him the charac- ter of a very faithful Indian, which we afterwards found true by experience. The Virginia men asking our opinion of the country we were then in. We told them it was a very pleasant one. They were all of the same opinion, and affirm- ed, that they had never seen twenty miles of such extraordinary rich land lying all together like that betwixt Hau river and the Achonechy town. Having taken our leaves of each other, we set forward ; and the country through which we pass- ed, was so delightful tlrat it gave us a great deal of satisfaction. About 3 o'clock we reached the town, and the Indians presently brought us good fat bear, and venison, which was very acceptable at that time. Their cabins were hung with a good sort of tapestry, as fat bear, and barbacued or dried venison ; no Indians having greater plenty of provisions than these. The savages do indeed, still possess the flower of Carolina, the English enjoying only the fag end of that fine country. We had not been in the town two hours when Enoe Will came into the kingls cabin, which was our quarters. We asked him if he would conduct us to the English, and what .he would have for his pains ; he answer- ed he would go along with us, and for what he was to have he left that to our discretion. The next morning we set out with Enoe Will towards Adshusheer, leaving the Virginia path, and striking more to the eastward for Ronoak. Several Indians were in our company belonging to LAWSON'S HISTORY Will's nation, who are the Shoccories, mixed with the Enoe Indians, and those of the nation of Ad- shusheer. Enoe Will is their chief man, and rules as far as the banks of Reatkin. It was a sad, stony way to Adshusheer. We went over a small river by Achonechy, and in this fourteen miles, through several other streams which empty themselves in- to the branches of Cape Fair. The stony way made me quite lame, so that I was an hour or two behind the rest ; but honest Will would not leave me, but bid me welcome when we came to his house, feasting us with hot bread and bear's oil, which is wholesome food tor travelers. There runs a pretty rivulet by this town. NQSLT the plan- tation, I saw a prodigious overgrown pine tree, having not seen any of that sort of timber for above one hundred and twenty-five miles. They brought us two cocks and pulled their larger feath- ers off, never plucking the lesser, but singeing them off. I took one of these fowls in my hand to make it cleaner than the Indian had, pulling out his guts and liver, which I laid in a bason ; notwithstanding which he kept such a struggling for a considerable time that I had much a do to hold him in my hands. The Indians laughed at me, and told me that Enoe Will had taken a cock of an Indian that was not at home, and the fowl was designed for another use. I conjectured that he was designed for an offering to their god, who, they say, hurts them, (which is the devil.) In this struggling he bled afresh, and there issued out of A5 98 OF NORTH CAROLINA. his body more blood than commonly such crea- tures afford. Notwithstanding all this, we cooked him and eat him ; and if he was designed for him, cheated the devil. The Indians keep many cocks, but seldom above one hen, using, very often, such wicked sacrifices, as I mistrusted this fowl was designed for. Our guide and landlord, Enoe "Will, was one of the best and most agreeable temper that ever I met with in an Indian, being always ready to serve the English, not out of gain, but real affection ; which makes him apprehensive of being poisoned by some wicked Indians, and was therefore very earnest with me, to promise him to revenge his death, if it should so happen. He brought some of his chief men into his cabin, and two of them having a drum, and a rattle, sung by us as we lay in bed, and struck up their music to serenade and welcome us to their town. And though at last, we fell asleep, yet they continued their concert till morning. These Indians are fortifi- ed in as the former, and are much addicted to a sport they call Chenco, which is carried on with a staff and a bowl made of stone, which they trundle up- on a smooth place like a bowling green, made for that purpose, as I have mentioned before. Next morning we set out with our guide and several other Indians who intended to go to the English and buy rum. "We designed for a nation 'about forty miles from Adshusheer, called the lower quarter : the first night we lay in a rich po- LAWSON'S HISTORY 99 coson, or low ground that was hard by a creek, and good dry land. The next day we went over several tracts of rich land, but mixed with pines and other indifferent soil. In our way there stood a great stone about the size of a large oven, and hollow ; this the Indians took great notice of, putting some tobacco into the concavity, and spitting after it. I asked them the reason of their so doing, but they made me no answer. In the evening we passed over a pleas- ant rivulet, with a fine gravelly bottom, having come over such another that morning. On the other side of this river we found the Indian town, which was a parcel of nasty, smoky holes, much like the Waterrees ; their town having a great swamp running directly through the middle there- of. The land here begins to abate of its height, and has some few swamps. Most of these Indians have but one eye ; but what mischance or quarrel has bereaved them of the other I could not learn. They were not so free to us as most of the other Indians had been ; victuals being somewhat scarce among them. However, we got enough to satis- fy our appetites. I saw, among these men, very long arrows, headed with pieces of glass, which they had broken from bottles. They had shaped them neatly, like the head of a dart, but which way they did it I can't tell. We had not been at this town above an hour when two of our compa- ny, that had bought a mare of John Stewart, came up to us, having received a letter by one of Will's 100 OF NORTH CAROLINA. Indians, who was very cautious, and asked a great many questions to certify him of the person ere he would deliver the letter. They had left the trader and one that came from South Carolina with us, to go to Virginia, these two being resolv- ed to go to Carolina with us. This day fell much rain, so we staid at the In- dian town. This morning we set out early, being four Eng- lishmen, besides several Indians. We went ten miles, and were then stopped by the freshes of Enoe river, wiiich had raised it so high that we could not pass over till it was fallen. I enquired of my guide where this river disgorged itself? He said it was Enoe river, and run into a place called Enoe bay, near his country, which he left when he was a boy ; by which I perceived he was one of the Cores by birth, this being a branch of Neus river. This day our fellow-traveler's mare ran away from him, wherefore, "Will went back as far as the lower quarter, and brought her back. The next day, early, came two Tuskeruro In- dians to the other side of the river, but could not get over. They talked much to us, but we understood them not. In the afternoon Will came with the mare, and had some discourse with them. They told him the English to whom he was going were very wicked people; and that they threatened the Indians for hunting near their plantations. These two fellow* were going among the Shoe- LAWSON'S HISTORY 101 cores and Achonechy Indians to sell their wooden bowls and ladles for raw skins, which they make great advantage of, hating that any of these west- ward Indians should have any*commerce with the English which would prove a hinderance to their gains. Their stories deterred an old Indian and his son from going any farther ; but Will told us noth- ing they had said should frighten him, he believ- ing them to be a couple of hog stealers ; and that the English only sought restitution of their losses by them, and that this was the only ground for their report. Will had a slave, a Sissipahau In- dian by nation, who killed us several turkies and other game, on which we feasted. This river is near as large as Reatkin ; the south side having curious tracts of good land, the banks high, and stone quarries. The Tuskeruros being come to us, we ventured over the river, which we found to be a strong current, and the water about breast high. However, we all got safe to the north shore, which is but poor, white, sandy land, and bears no timber but small, shrub- by oaks. We went about ten miles and sat down at the falls of a large creek, where lay mighty rocks, the water making a strange noise, as if a great many water mills were going at once. I take this to be the falls of !N"eus creek, called by the Indians, Wee quo Whom. We lay here all night. My guide, Will, desiring to see the book that I had about me, I lent it him \ and as he soon found the picture of king David, 102 OF NORTH CAROLINA. he asked me several questions concerning the book and picture, which I resolved him and invi- ted him to become a Christian. He made me a very sharp reply, Assuring me that he loved the English extraordinary well, and did believe their ways to be very good for those that had already practiced them, and had been brought up therein; but as for himself, he was too much in years to think of a change, esteeming it not proper for old people to admit of such an alteration. However, he told me, if I would take his son, Jack, who was then about fourteen years of age, and teach him to talk in that book, and make paper speak, which they call our way of writing, he would wholly re- sign him to my tuition ; telling me he was of opin- ion I was very well affected to the Indians. The next morning we set out early, and I per- ceived that these Indians were in some fear of en- emies ; for they had an old man with them who was very cunning and circumspect, wheresoever he saw any marks of footing, or of any fire that had been made ; going out of his way very often to look for these marks. "We went, this day, above thirty miles, over a very level country, and most pine land, yet intermixed with some quanti- ties of marble ; a good range for cattle, though very indifferent for swine. "We had now lost our rapid streams, and were come to slow, dead wa- ters, of a brown color, proceeding from the swamps, much like the sluices in Holland, where the Track- Scoots go along. In the afternoon, we met two LAWSON'S HISTORY 103 Tuskeruros, who told us that there was a compa- ny of hunters not far off, and if we walked stoutly we might reach them that night. But Will, and he that owned the mare, being gone before, and the old Indian tired, we rested that night in the woods, making a good, light fire, wood being very plentiful in these parts. Next day about ten o'clock, we struck out of the way by the advice of our old Indian. We had not gone past two miles ere we met with about five hundred Tuskeruros in one hunting quarter. They had made themselves streets of houses built with pine bark, not with round tops, as they commonly use, but ridge fashion, after the manner of most other Indians. We got nothing amongst them but corn, flesh being not plentiful, by reason of the great number of their people. For though they are expert hunt- ers, yet they are too populous for one range, which makes venison very scarce to what it is amongst other Indians, that are fewer ; no savages living so well for plenty as those near the sea. I saw amongst these a hump-backed Indian, which was the only crooked one I ever met withal. About two o'clock we reached one of their towns, in which there was no body left but an old woman or two, the rest being gone to their hunting quar- ters. We could find no provision at that place. We had a Tuskeruro that came in company with us from the lower quarter, who took us to his cabin and gave us what it afforded — which was corn meat. 104 OF NORTH CAROLINA. This day we passed through several swamps, and going not above a dozen miles came to a cabin, the master whereof used to trade amongst the English. He told us if we would stay two nights, he would conduct us safe to them, himself designing, at that time, to go and fetch some rum ; so we resolved to tarry for his company. During our stay, there happened to be a young woman troubled with fits. The doctor who was sent for to assist her, laid her on her belly and made a small incision with rattle snake teeth ; then laying his mouth to the place, he sucked out near a quart of black conglutinated blood and serum. Our landlord gave us the tail of a be- ver, which was a choice food. There happen- ed also to be a burial of one of their dead, which ceremony is much the same with that of the San- tees, who make a great feast at the interment of their corpse. The small runs of water hereabout afford great plenty of crawfish, full as large as those in England, and nothing inferior in good- ness. Saturday morning, our patron, with Enoe "Will and his servant, set out with us for the English. In the afternoon we ferried over a river, in a ca- noe, called by the Indians Chattookau, which is the north-west branch of ISTeus river. We lay in the swamp, where some Indians invited us to go to their quarters, which some of our company ac- cepted, but got nothing extraordinary, except a dozen miles' march out of their way. The coun- LAWSON'S HISTORY 105 try here is very thick of Indian towns and plant- ations. We were forced to march this day for want of provisions. About ten o'clock we met an Indi- an that had got a parcel of shad fish ready barba- cued. We bought twenty-four of them for a dressed doe skin, and so went on through many swamps, finding this day the long ragged moss on the trees, which we had not seen for above six hundred miles. In the afternoon we came upon the banks of Pampticough about twenty miles above the English plantations by water, though not so far by land. The Indian found a canoe which he had hidden, in which we all got over, and went about six miles farther. "We lay that night under two or three pieces of bark, at the foot of a large oak. There fell abundance of snow and rain in the night, with much thunder and lightning. Next day it cleared up, and it being about twelve miles to the English, about half way we passed over a deep creek, and came safe to Mr. Eichard Smith's of Pampticough river, in North Carolina ; where, being well received by the in- habitants and pleased with the goodness of the country, we all resolved to continue. LAWSON'S HISTORY 107 A DESCRIPTION OF NORTH CAROLINA. The province of Carolina is separated from Vir- ginia by a due west line, which begins at Curri- tuck Inlet, in 36° 30' of northern latitude, and extends indefinitely to the westward, and thence to the southward, as far as 29° ; which is a vast tract of sea-coast. But having already treated, as far as is necessary, concerning South Carolina, I shall confine myself in the ensuing sheets, to give my reader a description of that part of the country only, which lies betwixt Currituck and Cape Fair, and is almost 34° north — and this is commonly called North Carolina. This part of Carolina is faced with a chain of sand banks, which defends it from the violence and insults of the Atlantic ocean ; by which bar- rier a vast sound is hemmed in, which fronts the mouths of the navigable and pleasant rivers of this fertile country, and into which they disgorge themselves. Through the same are inlets of sev- eral depths of water. Some of their channels ad- mit only of sloops, brigantines, small barks and 108 OF NORTH CAROLINA. ketches ; and such are Currituck, Eonoak, and up the sound above Hatteras ; whilst others can re- ceive ships of burden, as Ocacock, Topsail Inlet, and Cape Fair, as appears by my chart. The first discovery and settlement of this coun- try was by the procurement of Sir Walter Ra- leigh, in conjunction with some public spirited gentlemen of that age, under the protection of queen Elizabeth ; for which reason it was then named Virginia, being begun on that part called Honoak Island, where the ruins of a fort are to be seen at this clay, as well as some old English coins which have been lately found ; and a brass gun, a powder horn, and one small quarter-deck gun, made of iron staves, and hooped with the same metal ; which method of making guns might ve- ry probably be made use of in those days for the convenience of infant colonies. A farther confirmation of this we have from the Hatteras Indians, who either then lived on Ro- noack island or much frequented it. These tell us that several of their ancestors were white peo- ple and could talk in a book as we do ; the truth of which is confirmed by gray eyes being found frequently amongst these Indians and no others. They value themselves extremely for their affinity to the English, and are ready to do them all friend- ly offices. It is probable that this settlement mis- carried for want of timely supplies from England ; or through the treachery of the natives, for we may reasonably suppose that the English were forced LAWSON'S HISTORY 109 to cohabit with them for relief and conversation ; and that in process of time, they conformed them- selves to the manners of their Indian relations ; and thus we see how apt human nature is to de- generate. I cannot forbear inserting here a pleasant story that passes for an uncontested truth amongst the inhabitants of this place ; which is, that the ship which brought the first colonies does often appear amongst them, under sail, in a gallant posture, which they call Sir "Walter Raleigh's ship. And the truth of this has been affirmed to me by men of the best credit in the country. A second settlement of this country was made about fifty years ago, in that part we now call Al- bemarl county, and chiefly in Chuwon precinct, by several substantial planters from Virginia and other plantations ; who finding mild winters, and a fertile soil beyond expectation, producing every- thing that was planted to a prodigious increase ; their cattle, horses, sheep, and swine, breeding very fast, and passing the winter without any as- sistance from the planter ; so that everything seemed to come by nature, the husbandman liv- ing almost void of care, and free from those fa- tigues which are absolutely requisite in winter countries, for providing fodder and other necessa- ries ; these encouragements induced them to stand their ground, although but a handful of people, seated at great distances one from another, and amidst a vast number of Indians of different na- 110 OF NOBTH CAROLINA. tions, who were then in Carolina. Nevertheless, I say, the fame of this new discovered summer country spread through the neighboring colonies, and in a few years drew a considerable number of families thereto, who all found land enough to settle themselves in, (had they been many thous- ands more) and that which was very good and com- modiously seated both for profit and pleasure. And, indeed, most of the plantations in Carolina naturally enjoy a noble prospect of large and spa- cious rivers, pleasant savannas and fine meadows, with their green liveries interwoven with beautiful flowers of most glorious colors, which the several seasons afford ; hedged in with pleasant groves of the ever famous tulip tree, the stately laurels and bays, equalizing the oak in bigness and growth, myrtles, jessamines, woodbines, honeysuckles, and several other fragrant vines and evergreens, whose aspiring branches shadow and interweave them- selves with the loftiest timbers, yielding a pleas- ant prospect, shade and smell, proper habitations for the sweet singing birds, that melodiously en- tertain such as travel through the woods of Caro- lina. The Planters possessing all these blessings, and the produce of great quantities of wheat and indian corn, in which this country is very fruitful, as like- wise in beef, pork, tallow, hides, deer skins, and furs ; for these commodities the new England men and Bermudians visited Carolina in their barks and sloops, and carried out what they made, bring- LAWSON'K HISTOKY 111 ing them in exchange, rum, sugar, salt, molasses, and some wearing apparel, though the last at very extravagant prices. As the land is very fruitful, so are the planters kind and hospitable to all that come to visit them ; there being very few housekeepers but what live very nobly, and give away more provisions to coasters and guests who come to see them than they expend amongst their own families. OF THE INLETS AND HAVENS OF THIS COUNTRY. The bar of Currituck being the northernmost of this country, presents itself first to be treated of. It lies in 36° 30' and the course over is S. W. by "W., having not above seven or eight feet on the bar, though a good harbour when you are over where you may ride safe, and deep enough ; but this part of the sound is so full of shoals as not to suffer any thing to trade through it that draws above three feet water, which renders it very in- commodious. However, this affects but some part of the country, and may be easily remedied by carrying their produce, in small craft, down to the vessels which ride near the inlet. Eonoak inlet has ten feet water, the course over the bar is almost W., which leads on through the best of the channel. This bar, as well as Cur- rituck, often shifts by the violence of the north- east storms, both lying exposed to those winds. Notwithstanding which, a considerable trade might be carried on, provided there was a pilot 112 OF NORTH CAROLINA. to bring them in ; for it lies convenient for a large part of this colony whose product would very ea- sily allow of that charge, latitude 35° 50'. The inlet of Hatteras lies to the westward of the Cape, round which is an excellent harbour. When the wind blows hard at JS". or E". E., if you keep a small league from the Cape point, you will have three, four and five fathom, the outermost shoals lying about seven or eight leagues from shore. As you come into the inlet keep close to Jie south breakers, till you are over the bar, •^here you will have two fathom at low water. You may come to an anchor in two fathom and a half when you are over, then steer over close abroad the north shore, where is four fathom close to a point of marsh ; then stir up the sound a long league, till you bring the north Cape of the inlet to bear S. S. E. half E., then steer "W. K "W"., the east point of bluff land at Hatteras bearing E. N. E. the southernmost large hammock towards Ocacock, bearing S. S. "W. half S. then you are in the sound, over the bar of sand, whereon is but six feet water ; then your course to Pampti- cough is almost west. It flows on these three bars S. E. by E. one-fourth E. about eight o'clock, unless there is a hard gale of wind at K. E. which will make it flow two hours longer ; but as soon as the wind is down the tides will have their nat- ural course. A hard gale at "N. or ET. W. will make the water ebb, sometimes twenty-four hours, but still the tide will ebb and flow though not seen LAWSON'S HISTORY 113 by the turning thereof, but may be seen by the rising of the water and falling of the same, lat- itude 35° 20'. Ocacock is the best inlet and harbour yet in this country ; and has thirteen feet at low water upon the bar. There are two channels, one is but nar- row and lies close aboard the south Cape ; the oth- er in the middle, viz : between the middle ground and the south shore, and is above half a mile wide. The bar itself is but half a cable's length over, and then you are in seven or eight fathom water ; a good harbour. The course into the sound is ST. 1ST. "W. at high water, and neap tides here is eigh- teen feet water ; it lies S. W. from Hatteras inlet, latitude 35° 8'. Topsail inlet is above two leagues to the west- ward of Cape Lookout. You have a fair channel over the bar, and two fathom thereon, and a good harbour in five or six fathom to come to an anchor. Your course over this bar is almost ET. W., lati- tude 34° 44'. As for the inlet and river of Cape Fair, I cannot give you a better information thereof, than has been already delivered by the gentlemen who were sent on purpose from Barbados, to make a discovery of that river, in the year 1663, which is thus : From Tuesday, the 29th of September, to Fri- day the 2nd of October, we ranged along the shore from lat. 32° 20' to lat. 33° 11', but could discern no entrance for our ship, after we had passed to 114 OF NORTH CAROLINA. the northward of 32° 40'. On Saturday, October 3, a violent storm overtook us, the wind between north and east ; which easterly winds and foul weather continued till Monday the 12th, by reason of which storms and foul weather, we were forced to get off to sea, to secure ourselves and ship, and were driven by the rapidity of a strong current to Cape Hatteras, in lat. 35° 30'. On Monday, the 12th aforesaid, we came to an anchor in seven fathom at Cape Fair road, and took the miridian altitude of the sun, and were in latitude 33° 43'. The wind continuing still easterly and foul weath- er till Thursday, the 15th ; and on Friday the 16th, the wind being at ]N\ W., we weighed and sailed up Cape Fair river some four or five leagues, and came to an anchor in six or seven fathom, at which time several Indians came on board, and brought us great store of fresh fish, large mullets, young bass, shads, and several other sorts of very good, well tasted fish. On Saturday, the 17th, we went down to the Cape, to see the English cattle, but could not find them, though we rounded the Cape. And having an Indian guide with us, here we rode till Oct. 24. The wind being against us, we could not go up the river with our ship ; but went on shore and viewed the land of those quarters. On Saturday we weighed and sailed up the river, some four leagues, or thereabouts. Sunday the 25th, we weighed again and rode up the river, It being calm, and got up some fourteen leagues from the harbour's mouth, where we mored our LAWSON'S HISTORY 115 ship. On Monday, Oct. the 26th, we went down with the yawl to !N"ecoes, an Indian plantation, and viewed the land there. On Tuesday, the 27th, we rowed up the main river with our long boat and twelve men, some ten leagues, or thereabouts. On. Wednesday, the 28th, we rowed up about eight or ten leagues more ; Thursday the 29th, was foul weather, with much rain and wind, which forced us to make huts and lio still. Friday the 30th, we proceeded up the main river, seven or eight leaugues. Saturday the 31st, we got up three or four leagues more, and came to a tree that lay cross the river; but because our provisions were almost spent, we proceeded no farther, but returned downward before night, and on Monday the 2nd of November, we came aboard our ship. Tuesday, the 3rd, we lay still to refresh ourselves. On "Wednesday, the 4th, we went five or six leagues up the river, to search a branch that run out of the main river towards the N". W., in which we went up five or six leagues ; but not liking the land, returned on board that night about midnight and called that place swampy branch. Thursday, November the 5th, we stayed aboard. On Friday, the 6th, we went up Green's river, the mouth of it being against the place at which rode our ship. On Saturdy the 7th, we proceeded up the said river, some fourteen or fifteen leagues in all, and found it ended in several small branches; the land, for the most part, being marshy and swamps, we returned towards our ship and got aboard it \ 116 OP NORTH CAROLINA. in the night. Sunday November the 8th, we lay still, and on Monday the 9th, went again up the main river, being well stucked with provisions, and all things necessary, and proceeded upwards till Thursday noon, the 12th, at which time we came to a place, where were two islands in the middle of the river; and by reason of the crookedness of the river at that place, several trees lay cross both branches, which stopped the passage of each branch, so that we could pro- ceed no farther with our boat; but went up the river side by land, some three or four miles, and found the river wider and wider. So we return- ed, leaving it as far as we could see, up a long reach, running IsT. E. we judging ourselves near fifty leagues north from the river's mouth. In our return, we viewed the land on both sides the river, and found as good tract of dry, well wooded, pleasant and delightful ground as we have seen any where in the world, with abund- ance of long thick grass on it, the land being ve- ry level, with steep banks on both sides the river, and in some places very high, the woods stored every where, with great numbers of deer and tur- keys, we never going on shore, but we saw of each sort ; as also great store of partrides, cranes, and conies, in several places we likewise heard several wolves howling in the woods, and saw where they had torn a deer in pieces. Also in the river we saw great store of ducks, teal, wid- geon ; and in the woods great flocks of parrakee- LAWSON'S HISTORY 117 tos. The timber that the woods afford, for the most part, consists of oaks of four or five sorts, all dif- fering in leaves, but each bearing very good acorns. We measured many of the oaks in sev- eral places, which we found to be in bigness, some two, some three, and others almost four fathom in height, before you come to boughs or limbs ; forty, fifty, sixty feet and some more ; and those oaks very common in the upper parts of both rivers ; also a very tall large tree of great bigness, which some call cypress, the right name we know not, growing in swamps ; likewise wal- nut, birch, beech, maple, ash, bay, willow, alder, and holly ; and in the lowermost parts innumera- ble pines, tall and good for boards or masts, grow- ing, for the most part, in barren and sandy, but in some places up the river, in good ground, be- ing mixed amongst oaks and other timbers. We saw mulberry trees, multitudes of grape vines, and some grapes which we ate of. We found a very large and good tract of land on the north- west side of the river, thin of timber, except here and there a very great oak, and full of grass, com- monly as high as a man's middle, and in many pla- ces to his shoulders, where we saw many deer and turkies ; one deer having very large horns and great body, therefore called it stag park. It be- ing a very pleasant and delightful place, we traveled in it several miles, but we saw no end thereof. 118 OP NORTH CAROLINA. So we returned to our boat, and proceeded down the river, and came to another place, some twenty- five leagues from the river's mouth, on the same side, where we found a place, no less delightful than the former; and as far as we could judge both tracts came into one. This lower place we called rocky point, because we found many rocks and stones of several sizes upon the land, which is not common. We sent our boat down the river before us, ourselves traveling by land many miles. Indeed, we were so much taken with the pleasantness of the country, that we traveled into the woods too far to recover our boat and company that night. The next day being Sunday, we got to our boat ; and on Monday, the 16th of November, proceeded down to a place on the east side of the river, some twenty-three leagues from the harbour's mouth, which we call- ed turkey quarters, because we killed several tur- kies thereabouts ; we viewed the land there and found some tracts of good ground, and high, facing upon the river about one mile inward, but back- wards some two miles, all pine land, but good pas- ture ground. We returned to our boat and proceeded down some two or three leagues where we had former- ly viewed, and found it a tract of as good land as any we have seen, and had as good timber on it. The banks on the river being high, therefore we called it highland point. Having viewed that we proceeded down the river, going on shore in sev- eral places on both sides, it being generally large LAWSON'S HISTORY 119 marshes, and many of them dry, that they may more fitly be called meadows. The wood land against them is, for the most part, pine, and in some places as barren as ever we saw land, but in other places good pasture ground. On Tuesday, November the 17th, we got aboard our ship, riding against the mouth of Green's riv- er, where our men were providing wood and fit- ting the ship for the sea. In the interium, we took a view of the country on both sides of the river, there finding some good land but more bad, and the best not comparable to that above. Fri- day the 20th, was foul weather ; yet in the after- noon we weighed, went down the river about two leagues and came to an anchor against the mouth of Hilton's river, and took a view of the land there OH both sides, which appeared to us much like that at Green's river. Monday the 23d, we went, with our long boat well victualed and manned, up Hilton's river ; and when we came three leagues, or thereabouts, up the same, we found this and Green's river to come into one, and so continued for lour or five leagues, which makes a great island betwixt them. We proceeded still up the river till they parted again, keeping up Hilton's river on the larboard side, and followed the said river five or six leagues farther, where we found another large branch of Green's river to come into Hilton's, which makes another great island. On the star board side, going up, we pro- ceeded etill up the river some four leagues and re- 120 OP NORTH CAROLINA. turned, taking a view of the land on both sides, and then judged ourselves to be from our ship some 18 leagues "W. and by N. One league below this place came four Indians in a canoe to us, and sold us several baskets of acorns, which we satisfied them for, and so left them ; but one of them fol- lowed us on the shore some two or three miles, till he came on the top of a high bank facing on the river ; and as we rowed underneath it, the fellow shot an arrow at us which veiy narrowly missed one of our men and stuck in the upper edge of the boat, but broke in pieces leaving the head be- hind. Hereupon we presently made to the shore and went all up the bank, (except four to guide the boat) to look for the Indian, but could not find him. At last we heard some sing, further in the woods, which we looked upon as a challenge to us to come and fight them. "We went towards them with all speed ; but before we came in sight of them, heard two guns go off from our boat ; whereupon we retreated as fast as we could to se- cure our boat and men : when we came to them we found all well, and demanded the reason of their firing the guns. They told us that an Indian came creeping along the bank, as they supposed, to shoot at them ; and therefore they shot at him at a great distance, with small shot, but thought they did him no hurt, for they saw him run away. Presently after our return to the boat, and while we were thus talking, came two Indians to us with their bows and arrows, crying bony, OP NORTH CAROLINA. 121 bonny. We took their bows and arrows from them, and gave them beads to their content. Then we led them by the hand to the boat, and showed them the arrow head sticking in her side, and related to them the whole passage, which, when they understood, both of them showed a great con- cern, and signified to us, by signs, that they knew nothing of it. So we let them go, and marked a tree on the top of the bank, calling the place mount skerry. We looked up the river as far as we could discern, and saw that it widened, and came running directly down the country. So we returned, viewing the land on both sides the river, and finding the banks steep in some places, but very high in others. The bank sides are general- ly clay, and as some of our company did affirm, some marl. The land and timber up this river is no way inferior to the best in the other, which we call the main river. So far as we could discern, this seemed as fair, if not fairer, than the former, and we think runs farther into the country because a strong current comes down, and a great deal more drift wood. But to return to the business of the land and timber. We saw several plots of ground cleared by the Indians after their weak manner, compassed round with great timber trees, which they are no wise able to fell, and so keep the sun from corn fields very much ; yet neverthe- less, we saw as large corn stalks, or larger, than we have seen anywhere else. So we proceeded down the river till we found the canoe. The In- A6 122 LAWSON'S HISTORY dian was in, who shot at us. In the morning we went on shore and cut the same in pieces. The In- dians perceiving us coming towards them ran away. Going to his hut we pulled it down, broke his pots, platters, and spoons, tore the deer skins and mats in pieces, and took away a basket of acorns ; and af- tewards proceeded down the river two leagues, or thereabouts, and came to another place of Indians, bought acorns and some corn of them, and went .downward two leagues more. At last espying an Indian pef ping- over a high bank, we held up a gun at him, and calling to him skerry, presently several Indians came in sight of us, and made great signs of friendship, saying bonny, bonny. Then running before us, they endeavored to persuade us to come on shore ; but we answered them with stern countenances, and called out skerry, taking up our guns, and threatening to shoot at them, but they still cried, bonny, bonny ; and when they saw they could not prevail nor persuade us to come on shore, two of them came off to us in a canoe, one paddling with a great cane, the other with his hand. As soon as they overtook us, they laid hold of our boat, sweating and blowing, and told us, it was bonny on shore, and at last persuaded us to go on shore with them. As soon as we landed several Indians, to the number of near forty lusty men, came to us, all in a great sweat, and told us bonny. We showed them the arrow head in the boat-side, and a piece of the canoe we had cut in pieces ; whereupon, the chief man amongst them OF NORTH CAROLINA. 123 made a long speech, threw beads into our boat, which is a sign of great love and friendship, and gave us to understand, that when he heard of the af- front which we had received, it caused him to cry, and that he and his men were come to make peace, with us, assuring us, by signs, that they would tie the arms and cut off the head of the fellow who had done us that wrong. And for a farther testimony of their love and good will towards us, they pre- sented us with two very handsome, proper, young Indian women, the tallest that ever we saw in this country, which we supposed to be the king's daugh- ters, or persons of distinction amongst them. Those young women were so ready to come into our boat that one of them crowded in, and would hardly be persuaded to go out again. We presented the king with a hatchet and several beads, and made presents of beads also to the young women, the chief men, and the rest of the Indians, as far as our beads would go. They promised us, in four days, to come on board our ship, and so departed from us. When we left the place, which was soon after, we called it mount bonny, because we had there concluded a firm peace. Proceeding down the river two or three leagues farther, we came to a place where were nine or ten canoes, all together. "We went ashore there and found several Indians, but most of them were the same which had made peace with us before. We staid very little at that place, but went directly down the river, and came to our ship before day. Thurs- 124 LAWSOX'S HISTORY day the 26th of November the wind being at so'uth, we could not go down to the river's mouth, but on Friday the 27th, we weighed at the mouth of Hilton's river, and got down a league towards the harbour's mouth. On Sunday the 29th, we got down to Crane island, which is four leagues or thereabouts, above the entrance of the1 harbour's mouth. On Tuesday the 1st of December, we made a purchase of the river and land of Cape Fair, of Wat Coosa, and such other Indians &s ap- peared to us to be the chief of those parts. They brought us store of fresh fish aboard, as mullet, shads, and other sorts very good. This river is all fresh water, fit to drink. Some eight leagues within the mouth the tide runs up about thirty- five leagues, but stops and rises a great deal far- ther up. It flows at the harbour's mouth, S. E. and 1ST. "W. six feet at neap tides anxl eight feet at spring tides. The channel on the east side by the1 Cape shore, is the best, and Ires close aboard the cape land, being three fathoms at high water, in the shallowest place in the channel jtist at the en-- trance ; but as soon as you are past that place, half a cable's length inward, you have six or seven- fathoms, a fair turning channel into the river, and! so continuing five or six leagues upwards. Af- terwards the channel is more difficult, in some- places six or seven fathoms, in others four or five, and in others but nine or teirfeet, especially where the river is broad. When the river comes to part and grows narrovr, there it is all channel from side1 OF NORTH CAROLINA. 125 to side in most places ; though in some you shall have five, six or seven fathoms, but generally two or three, sand and oaze. "We viewed the Cape land and judged it to be little worth, the woods of it being shrubby and low and the land sandy and barren ; in some places grass and rushes, in others nothing but clear sand : a place fitter to starve cattle, in our judgment, than to keep them alive ; yet the Indians, as we understand, keep the English cattle down there and suffer them not to go off of the said Cape, (as we suppose) because the country Indians shall have no part with them, and, therefore, 'tis likely they have fallen out about them which shall have the greatest share. They brought on board our ship very good and fat beef several times, which they sold us at a very reasonable price ; also fat and very large swine, good and cheap, but they may thank their friends of New England who brought their hogs to so fair a market. Some of the Indians brought very good salt aboard, us, and made signs, pointing to both sides of the river's mouth, that there was great store thereabouts. We saw up the river several good places for the sitting up of corn or saw mills. In that time, as our business called us up and down the river and branches, we killed of wild fowl, four swans, ten geese, twenty-nine cranes, ten turkies, forty ducks and mallards, three dozen of parrakeeto's and six dozen of other small fowls, as curlues and plover, &c. Whereas there was a writing left in a post at 126 LAWSON'S HISTORY the point of Cape Fair river, by those New Eng- land men, that left cattle with the Indians there, the contents whereof tended not only to the dis- paragement of the land about the said river, but also to the great discouragement of all such as should hereafter come into those parts to settle. In answer to that scandalous writing, we, whose names are underwritten do affirm, that we have seen, facing both sides the river and branches of Cape Fair aforesaid, as good land, and as well timbered, as any we have seen in any other part of the world, sufficient to accommodate thousands of our English nation, and lying commodiously by the said river's side. On Friday the 4th of December, the wind being fair, we put out to sea, bound for barbados ; and on the 6th of February 166f , came to an anchor in Carlisle bay ; it having pleased God, after sev- eral apparent dangers both by sea and land, to bring us all in safety to our long wished for and much desired port, to render an account of our discovery ; the verity of which we do assert ANTHONY LONG. WILLIAM HILTON. PETER FABIAN. Thus you have an account of the latitude, soil and advantages of Cape Fair, or Clarendon river, which was settled in the year 1661, or thereabouts, and had it not been for the irregular practices of some of that colony against the Indians, by send- OF .NORTH CAROLINA. 127 ing away some of their children (as I have been told) under pretence qf instructing them in learn- ing and the principles of the Christian religion, which so disgusted the Indians, that, though they had then no guns, yet they never gave over till they had entirely rid themselves of the English, by their bows and arrows ; with which they did not only take off themselves but also their stocks of cattle ; and this was so much the more ruinous to them in that they could have no assistance from South Carolina, which was not then planted, and the other plantations were but in their infancy. "Were it not for such ill practices, I say, it might, in all probability, have been at this day, the best settlement in their lordships' great province of Carolina. The Sound of Albermarl, with the rivers and creeks of that country, afford a very rich and du- rable soil. The land, in most places, lies indif- ferent low, (except in Chuwon and high up the rivers) but bears an incredible burden of timber ; the low grounds being covered with beech, and the high land yielding lofty oaks, walnut trees, and other useful timber. The country, in some plantations, has yearly produced indian corn, or some other grain ever since this country was first seated, without the trouble of manuring or dress- ing ; and yet, to all appearance, it seems not to be, in the least, impoverished, neither do the plan- ters ever iniss of a good crop, unless a very unnat- , ural season visits them, which seldom happens. 128 LAWSON'S HISTORY OF THE CORN OP CAROLINA. The wheat of this plac§ is very good, seldom yielding less than thirty fold, provided the land is good where it is sown ; not but that there has been sixty-six increase for one measure sown in piny land, which we account the meanest sort. And I have been informed by people of credit, that wheat which was planted in a very rich piece of land, brought a hundred and odd pecks for one. If our planters, when they found such great in- crease, would be so curious as to make nice ob- servations of the soil and other remarkable acci- dents, they would soon be acquainted with the na- ture of the earth and climate and be better quali- fied to manage their agriculture to more certainty and greater advantage, whereby they might ar- rive to the crops and harvests of Babylon, and those other fruitful countries so much talked of. For I must confess I never saw one acre of land managed as it ought to be in Carolina since I knew it ; and were they as negligent in their hus- bandry in Europe as they are in Carolina, their land would produce nothing but weeds and straw. They have tried rye, and it thrives very well ; but having such plenty of maiz, they do not re- gard it, because it makes black bread, unless very curiously handled. Barley has been sowed in small quantities, and does better than can be expected; because that grain requires the ground to be very well worked with repeated ploughings, which our general way OF NORTH CAROLINA. 120 of breaking the earth with hoes, can, by no means perform, though in many places we have a light, rich, deep, black mould, which is the particular soil in which barley best thrives. The naked oats thrive extraordinary well; and the other would prove a very bold grain ; but the plenty of other grains makes them not much cov- eted. The Indian corn, or niaiz, proves the most use- ful grain in the world ; and had it not been for the fruitfulness of this species, it would have proved very difficult to have settled some of the planta- tions in America. It is very nourishing, whether in bread, sodden, or otherwise ; and those poor Christian servants in Virginia, Maryland, and the other northerly plantations that have been forced to live wholly upon it, do manifestly prove that it is the most nourishing grain for a ma.n to subsist on, without any other victuals. And this assertion is made good by the negro slaves, who, in many places eat nothing but this indian corn and salt. Pigs and poultry fed with this grain, eat the sweet- est of all others. It refuses no ground, unless the barren sands, and when planted in good ground, will repay the planter, seven or eight hundred fold ; besides the stalks bruised and boiled, make very pleasant beer, being sweet like the sugar cane. There are several sorts of rice, some bearded, others not, besides the red and the white , but the white rice is the best. Yet there is a sort of per- B6 130 LAWSOX'S HISTORY fumed rice in the East" Indies, which gives a cu- rious flavor in the dressing. And with this sort America is not yet acquainted ; neither can I learn that any of it has been brought over to Europe, the rice of Carolina being esteemed the best that comes to that quarter of the world. It is of great increase, yielding from eight hundred to a thou- sand fold, and thrives best in wild land that has never been broken up before. Buckwheat is of great increase in Carolina ; but we make no other use of it, than instead of maiz, to feed hogs and poultry ; and guinea corn, which thrives well here, serves for the same use. Of the pulse kind, we have many sorts. The first is the bushel bean, which is a spontaneous product. They are so called, because they bring a bushel of beans for one that is planted. They are set in the spring, round arbors, or at the feet of poles, up which they will climb and cover the wattling, making a very pretty shade to sit under. They continue flowering, budding and ripening all the summer long, till the frost approaches, when they forbear their fruit and die. The stalks they grow on come to the thickness of a man's thumb ; and the bean is white and mottled, with a purple figure on each side it, like an eai\ They are very flat, and are eaten as the Windsor bean is, being an extraordinary well relished pulse, either by themselves or with meat. "We have the indian rounceval, or miraculous peas, so called from their long pods, and great in- OF NORTH CAROLINA. 131 crease. These are later peas, and require a pret- ty long summer to ripen in. They are very good; and so are the bonavis, calavancies, nanticokes, and abundance of other pulse, too tedious here to name, which we found the Indians possessed of, when first we settled in America, some of which sorts afford us two crops in one year ; as the bon- avis and colavancies, besides several others of that kind. JsTow I am launched into a discourse of the pulse, I must acquaint you that the European bean planted here, will, in time, degenerate into a dwarfish sort, if not prevented by a yearly supply of foreign seed, and an extravagant rich soil ; yet these pigmy beans are the sweetest of that kind I ever met withal. As for all the sorts of English peas that we have yet made trial of, they thrive very well in Caroli- na. Particularly the white and gray rouncival, the common field peas, and sickle peas, yield very well, and are of a good relish. As for the other sorts, I have not seen any made trial of as yet, but question not their coming to great perfection with us. The kidney beans were here before the English came, being very plentiful in the Indian corn fields. The garden roots that thrive well in Carolina are, carrots, leeks, parsnips, turneps, potatoes of several delicate sorts, ground artichokes, radish- es, horse radish, beet, both sorts, onions, shallot, gaiiick, cives, and the wild onions, 132 LAWSON'S HISTORY The sallads are, the lettice, curled, red cabbage and savoy. The spinage, round and prickly, fen- nel, sweet and the common sort, samphire, in the marshes excellent,- so is the dock, or wild rhu- barb, rocket, sorrell, French and English, cresses, of several sorts, purslain wild, and that of a larger size which grows in the gardens ; for this plant is never met withal in the Indian plantations, and is, therefore, supposed to proceed from cow dung, which beast they keep not. Parsley, two sorts, asparagus thrives to a miracle, without hot beds or dunging the land, white cabbage from European, or New England seed, for the people are negli- gent and unskilful, and dont care to provide seed of their own. The colly flower we have not yet had an opportunity to make trial of, nor has the artichoke ever appeared amongst us, that I can learn. Coleworts, plain and curled, savoys ; besides the watermelons of several sorts, very good, which should have gone amongst the fruits. Of musk- mellons we have very large and good, and sev- eral sorts, as the golden, green, guinea, and or- ange. Cucumbers, long, short and prickly, all these from the natural ground, and great increase, with- out any helps of dung or reflection ; pompions, yel- low and very large, burmillions, cashaws, an ex- cellent fruit boiled ; squashes, simnals, horns and gourds, besides many other species of less value, too tedious to'name. Our pot herbs and others of use, which we al- ready possess, are, angelica, wild and tame, balm, OF NORTH CAROLINA. 138 bugloss, borage, burnett, clary, marigold, pot mar- joram, and other marjorams, summer and winter savoy, columbines, tansey, wormwood, nep, mal- lows, several sorts, drage, red and white, lambs quarters, thyme, hyssop, of a very large growth, sweet bazzil, rose mary, lavender. The more physical are carduns, benedictus, the scurvy grass of America, I never here met any of the European sort ; tobacco of many sorts, dill, carawa, cummin, anise, coriander, all sorts of plantain of England, and two sorts spontaneous, good vulneraries, ele- campane, comfrey, nettle, the seed from England, none native ; monks rhubarb, burdock, asarum, wild in the woods, reckoned one of the snake roots ; poppies in the garden, none wild yet discovered; wormseed, feverfew, rue, ground ivey, spontaneous but very wild and scarce, aurea virga, four sorts of snake root, besides the common spe- cies, which are great antidotes against that ser- pent's bite, and are easily raised in the garden ; mint, Jamestown weed, so called from Virginia, the seed it bears is very like that of an onion, it is ex- cellent for curing burns, and assuaging inflama- tions, but taken inwardly brings on a sort of drunk- en madness. One of our marsh weeds, like a dock, has the same effect, and possesses the party with fear and watchings. The reed root, "whose leaf is like spear mint, is good for thrushes and sore mouths, camomil, but it must be kept in the shade, otherwise it will not thrive ; housleek, first from England ; vervin, night shade, several kinds ; 134: LAWSONVS HISTORY harts tongue, yarrow abundance, mullein the same, both of the country ; sarsparilla, and abundance more I could name, yet not the hundredth part of what remains, a catalogue of which is a work of many years, and without any other subject, would swell to a large volume, and requires the ability of a skillful botanist. Had not the ingenious Mr. Banister (the greatest virtuoso we ever had on the continent) been unfortunately taken out of this world, he would have given the best account of the plants of America, of any that ever yet made such an attempt in these parts. Not but we are satisfied, the species of vegetable in Carolina are so numerous that it requires more ..than one man's age to bring the cl detest part of them into regular classes ; the country being so different in its situa- tion and soil, that what one place plentifully af- fords, another is absolutely a stranger to; yet we generally observe that the greatest variety is found in the low grounds, and savannas. The flower garden in Carolina is as yet arrived but to a very poor and jejune perfection. We have only two sorts of roses, the clove July flowers, violets, prince feathers and tres colores, there has been nothing more cultivated in the flower gar- den, which at present occurs to my memory ; but as for the wild spontaneous flowers of this coun- try, nature has been so liberal that I cannot name one tenth part of the valuable ones ; and since, to give specimens would only swell the volume, and give little satisfaction to the reader, I shall there- OF NORTH CAROLINA. 135 fore proceed to the present state of Carolina, and refer the shrubs and other vegetables of larger growth till hereafter, and then shall deliver them and the other species in their order. THE PRESENT STATE OF CAROLINA. "When we consider the latitude and convenient situation of Carolina, had we no farther confirma- tion thereof, our reason would inform us that such a place lay fairly to be a delicious country, being placed in that girdle of the world which affords wine, oil, fruit, grain and silk, with other rich commodities, besides a sweet air, moderate cli- mate and fertile soil ; these are the blessings, under Heaven's protection) that spin out the thread of life to its utmost extent, and crown our days with the sweets of health and plenty, which, when join- ed with content, renders the possessors the hap- piest race of men upon earth. The inhabitants of Carolina, through the rich- ness of the soil, live an easy and pleasant life. The land being of several sorts of compost, some stiff, others light, some marl, others rich, black mould, here barren of pine, but affording pitch, tar and masts ; there vastly rich, especially on the freshes of the rivers, one part bearing great tim- bers others being savannas or natural meads, where no trees grow for several miles, adorned by nature with a pleasant verdure, and beautiful flow- ers, frequent in no other places, yielding abun- dance of herbage for cattle, sheep, and horses. 136 LAWSON'S HISTOHY The country, in general, affords pleasant seats, the land, except in some few places, being dry and high banks, parcelled out into most conve- nient necks, by the creeks, easy to be fenced in for securing their stocks to more strict boundaries, whereby, with a small trouble of fencing, almost every man may enjoy, to himself, an entire plan- tation, or rather park. These, with the other benefits of plenty of fish, wild fowl, venison, and the other conveniences which this summer coun- try naturally furnishes, has induced a great many families to leave the more northerly plantations and sit down under one of the mildest govern- ments in the world ; in a country that, with mod- erate industry, will afford all the necessaries of life. We have yearly abundance of strangers come among us, who chiefly strive to go souther- ly to settle, because there is a vast tract of rich land betwixt the place we are seated in and Cape Fair, and upon that river, and more southerly which is inhabited by none but a few Indians, who are at this time well affected to the English, and very desirous of their coming to live among them. The more southerly the milder winters, with the advantages of purchasing the lords land at the most easy and moderate rate of any lands in America, nay, allowing all advantages thereto annexed, I may say the universe does not afford such another ; besides men have a great advantage of choosing good and commodious tracts of land at the first seating of a country or river, OF NORTH CAROLINA. 137 whereas the latter settlers are forced to purchase smaller dividends of the old standers, and some- times at very considerable rates ; as now in Vir- ginia and Maryland where a thousand acres of good land cannot be bought under twenty shil- lings an acre, besides two shillings yearly acknowl- edgement for every hundred acres ; which sum, be it more or less, will serve to put the merchant or planter here into a good posture of buildings, slaves, and other necessaries, when the purchase of his land comes to him on such easy terms and as our grain and pulse thrives with us to admira- tion, no less do our stocks of cattle, horses, sheep and swine multiply. The beef of Carolina equalizes the best that our neighboring colonies afford ; the oxen are of a great size when they are suffered to live to a fit age. I have seen fat and good beef at all times of the year, but October and the cool months are the seasons we kill our beeves in. when we intend them for salting or exportation ; for then they are in their prime of flesh, all coming from grass, we never using any other food for our cattle. The heifers bring calves at eighteen or twenty months old, which makes such a wonderful increase, that many of our planters, from very mean beginnings, have raised themselves, and are now masters of hundreds of fat beeves and other cattle. The veal 'is very good and white, so is the milk very pleasant and rich, there being at present, considerable quantities of butter and cheese made 188 LAWSON'S HISTORY that is very good, not only serving our own ne- cessities, but we send out a great deal among our neighbors. The sheep thrive very well at present, having most commonly two lambs at one yeaning. As the country comes to be open, they prove sill bet- ter, change of pasture being agreeable to that useful creature. Mutton is generally exceeding fat and of a good relish ; their wool is very fine and proves a good staple. The horses are well shaped and swift ; the best of them would sell for ten or twelve pounds in England. They prove excellent drudges and will travel incredible journeys. They are troubled with very few distempers, neither do the cloudy faced grey horses go blind here as in Europe. As for spavins, splints and ring bones, they are here never met withal, as I can learn. Were we to have our stallions and choice of mares from England, or any other of a good sort, and careful to keep them on the highlands, we could not fail of a good breed ; but having been supplied with our first horses from the neighboring plantations, which were but mean, they do not as yet come up to the excellency of the English horses ; though we generally find that the colt exceeds in beauty and strength, its sire and dam. The pork exceeds any in Europe ; the great di- versity and goodness of the acorns and nuts which the woods afford, making that flesh of an excel- lent taste and produces great quantities ; so that - OF NORTH CAROLINA. 139 Carolina, if not the chief, is not inferior in this one commodity to any colony in the hands of the English. As for goats, they have been found to thrive and increase well, but being mischievous to or- chards and other trees, makes people decline keep- ing them. Our produce for exportation to Europe and the islands in America, are beef, pork, tallow, hides, deer skins, furs, pitch, tar, wheat, indian corn, peas, masts, staves, heading, boards and all sorts of timber and lumber for Madera and the West Indies, rosin, turpentine and seYeral sorts of gums and tears, with some medicinal drugs, are here produced ; besides rice and several other foreign grains, which thrive very well. Good bricks and tiles are made and several sorts of useful earths, as bole, fuller's earth, oaker and tobacco-pipe clay, in great plenty ; earths for the potter's trade and fine sand for the glass makers. In building with brick, we make our lime of oyster shells, though we have great store of lime stone towards the heads of our rivers, where are stones of all sorts that are useful, besides vast quantities of ex- cellent marble. Iron stone we have plenty of, both in the low grounds and on the hills. Lead and coppes has been found, so has antimony here- tofore ; but no endeavors have been used to discover those subteraneous species ; otherwise we might in all probability, find out the best of minerals, which are not wanting in Carolina. Hot 140 LAWSON'S HISTORY baths we have an account of from the Indians that frequent the hill country, where a great like- lihood appears of making saltpetre, because the earth in many places, is strongly mixed with a nitrous salt, which is much coveted by the beasts, who come at some seasons in great droves and herds, and by their much licking of this earth, make great holes in those banks, which some- times lie at the heads of great precipices, where their eagerness after this salt hastens their end by falling down the high banks, so that they are dashed in pieces. It must be confessed that the most noble and sweetest part of this country is not inhabited by any but the savages ; and a great deal of the richest part thereof, has no inhabitants but the beasts of the wilderness ; for, the Indians are not inclinable to settle in the richest land, be- cause the timbers are too large for them to cut down, and too much burthened with wood for their laborers to make plantations of; besides, the healthfulness of those hills is apparent by the gigantic stature and grey heads so common a- mongst the savages that dwell near the mount- ains. The great Creator of all things having most wisely diffused his blessings, by parceling out the vintages of the world into such lots as his won- derful foresight saw most proper, requisite and convenient for the habitations of his creatures. Towards the sea we have the conveniency of trade transportation and other helps the water affords ; but oftentimes those advantages are attended with OP NORTH CAROLINA. 141 indifferent land, a thick air, and other inconven- iences ; when backwards, near the mountains, you meet with the richest soil, a sweet, thin air, dry roads, pleasant small murmuring streams, and several beneficial productions and species, which are unknown in the European world. One part of this country affords what the other is wholly a stranger to. We have chalybeate waters of several tastes and different qualities, some purge, others work by the other enunctories. We have amongst the in- habitants, a water that is inwardly, a great aper* sive, and outwardly, cures ulcers, tetters and sores by washing therewith. There has been a coal mine lately found near the Mannakin town, above the falls of James riv- er in Virginia, which proves very good, and is used by the smiths for their forges ; and we need not doubt of the same amongst us, towards the heads of our rivers ; but the plenty of wood, which is much the better fuel, makes us not inquisitive after coal mines. Most of the French, who lived at that town on James river, are removed to Trent river, in North Carolina, where the rest were ex- pected daily to come to them when I came away, which was in August, 1708. They are much ta- ken with the pleasantness of that country, and in- deed are a very industrious people. At present, they make very good linen cloth and thread, and are very well versed in cultivating hemp and flax, of both which they raise very considerable quan- 142 LAWSON'S HISTORY titles ; and design to try an essay of the grape for making of wine. As for those of our own country in Carolina, some of the men are very laborious and make great improvements in their way, but I dare hard- ly give them that character in general. The easy way of living in that plentiful country makes a great many planters very negligent, which, were they otherwise, that colony might now have been in a far better condition than it is, as to trade and other advantages, which an universal industry would have led them into. The women are the most industrious sex in that place, and, by their good housewifery, make a great deal of cloth of their own cotton, wool and flax ; some of them keeping their families, though large, very decently appareled, both with linens and woolens, so that they have no occasion to run into the merchants debt, or lay their money out on stores for clothing. The Christian natives of Carolina are a straight, cleanlimbed people; the children being seldom or never troubled with rickets, or those other dis- tempers that the Europeans are visited withal. 'Tis next to a miracle to see one of them deform- ed in body. The vicinity of the sun makes im- pression on the men who labour out of doors, or use the water. As for those women that do not expose themselves to the wea.ther, they are often very fair, and generally as well featured as you shall see any where, and have very brisk, charm- OF NORTH CAROLINA. 143 ing eyes which sets them off to advantage. They marry very young ; some at thirteen or fourteen ; and she that stays till twenty is reckoned a stale maid, which is a very indifferent character in that warm country. The women are very fruitful, most houses being full of little ones. It has been observed that women long married and without children in other places, have removed to Caroli- na and become joyful mothers. They have very easy travail in their childb earing, in which they are so happy as -seldom to miscarry. Both sexes are generally spare of body and not choleric, nor easily cast down at disappointments and losses, seldom immoderately grieving at misfortunes, un- less for the loss of their nearest relations and friends, which seems to make a more than ordi- nary impression upon them. Many of the women are very handy in canoes and will manage them with great dexterity and skill, which they become accustomed to in this watery country. They are ready to help their husbands in any servile work, as planting, when the season of the weather re- quires expedition ; pride seldom banishing good housewifery. The girls are not bred up to the wheel and sewing only, but the dairy and the af- fairs of the house they are very well acquainted withal ; so that you shall see them, whilst very young, manage their business with a great deal of conduct and alacrity. The children of both sexes are very docile and learn any thing with a great deal of ease and method, and those that have the 144 LAWSON'S HISTORT advantages of education write very good hands, and prove good accountants, which is most cove- ted, and, indeed, most necessary in these parts. The young men are commonly of a bashful, sober behaviour ; few proving prodigals to consume what the industry of their parents has left them, but commonly improve it. The marrying so young, carries a double advan- tage with it ; and that is that the parents see their children provided for in marriage, and the young married people are taught by their parents how to get their living ; for their admonitions make great impressions on their children. I had heard (before I knew this new world) that the natives of Amer- ica were a short lived people, which, by all the ob- servations I could ever make, proves quite contra- ry ; for those who are born here, and in other col- onies, live to as great ages as any of the Europe- ans, the climate being free from consumptions, which distemper, fatal to England, they are stran- gers to. And as the country becomes more clear- ed of wood it still becomes more healthful to the inhabitants and less addicted to the ague, which is incident to most new comers into America from Europe, yet not mortal. A gentle emetic seldom misses of driving it away; but if it is not too trou- blesome, tis better to let the seasoning have its own course, in which case the party is commonly free from it ever after, and very healthful. And now, as to the other advantages the coun- try affords, we cannot guess at them at present, Of NORTH CAROLINA. 145 because, as I said before, the best part of this coun- try is not inhabited by the English, from whence probably will hereafter spring productions that this age does not dream of, and of much more ad- vantage to the inhabitants than any things we are yet acquainted withal ; and as for several produc- tions of other countries, much in the same lati- tude, we may expect with good management, they will become familiar to us, as wine, oil, fruit, silk, and other profitable commodities, such as drugs, dyes, &c., and at present, the curious may have a large field to satisfy and divert themselves in, as collections of strange beasts, birds, insects, rep- tiles, shells, fishes, minerals, herbs, flowers, plants, shrubs, intricate roots, gums, tears, rosins, dyes, and stones, with several other that yield satisfac- tion and profit to those whose inclinations tend that way. And as for what may be hoped for, towards a happy life and being, by such as design to remove thither, I shall add this : that with pru- dent management, I can affirm, by experience, not by hearsay, that any person, with a small be- ginning, may live very comfortably, and not only provide for the necessaries of life, but likewise for those that are to succeed him. Provisions being very plentiful, and of good variety to accommodate genteel housekeeping, and the neighboring In- dians are friendly, and in many cases serviceable to us in making us wares to catch fish in, for a small matter, which proves of great advantage to large families, because those engines take great A7 146 LAWSON'g HISTORY quantities of many sorts of fish that are very good and nourishing. Some of them hunt and fowl for us at reasonable rates, the country being as plentifully provided with all sorts of game as any part of America ; the poorer sort of planters often get them to plant for them by hiring them for that season, or for so much work, which common- ly comes very reasonable. Moreover, it is remar- kable, that no place on the continent of America has seated an English colony so free from blood shed as Carolina, but all the others have been more damaged and disturbed by the Indians than they have ; which is worthy notice, when we con- sider how oddly it was first planted with inhabi- tants. The fishing trade in Carolina might be carried (m to great advantage, considering how many sorts of excellent fish our sound and rivers afford, which cure very well with salt, as has been expe- rienced by some small quantities, which have been sent abroad and yielded a good price. As for the whale fishing, it is no otherwise regarded than by a few people who live on the sand banks ; and those only work on dead fish cast on shore, none being struck on our coast, as they are to the north- ward; although we have plenty of whales there. Great plenty is generally the ruin of industry. Thus our merchants are not many, nor have those few there be applied themselves to the European trade. The planter sits contented at home, whilst hiri oxen thrive and grow fat, and his stocks daily OF NORTH CAROLINA. 147 increase : the tatted porkets and poultry are easily raised to his table, and his orchard affords him liquor, so that he eats and drinks away the cares of the world, and desires no greater happiness than that which he daily enjoys. Whereas, not only the European, but also the Indian trade, might be carried on to a great profit, because we lie as fairly for the body of Indians as any settle- ment in English America ; and for the small trade that has been carried on in that way, the dealers therein have throve as fast as any men, and the soonest raised themselves of any people I have known in Carolina. Lastly, as to the climate, it is very healthful ; our summer is not so hot as in other places to the eastward in the same latitude ; neither are we ev- er visited by earthquakes, as many places in It- aly and other summer countries are. Our north- erly winds, in summer, cool the air, and free us from pestilential fevers, which Spain, Barbary, and the neighboring countries in Europe, &c., are visited withal. Our sky is generally serene and clear, and the air very thin, in comparison of many parts of Europe, where consumptions and catarrhs reign amongst the inhabitants. The win- ter has several fits of. sharp weather, especially when the wind is at N. W. which always clears the sky, though never so thick before. However, such weather is very agreeable to European bodies, and makes them healthy. The K E. winds blow- ing in winter, bring with them thick weather, and, 148 LAWSON'S HISTORY in the spring sometimes, blight the fruits ; but they very seldom endure long, being blown away by westerly winds, and then all becomes fair and clear again. Our spring in Carolina is very beautiful, and the most pleasant weather a country can enjoy. The fall is accompanied with cool mornings, which como in towards the latter end of August, and so con- tinue (most commonly) very moderate weather till about Christmas ; then winter comes on apace. Though these seasons are very piercing, yet the cold is of no continuance. Perhaps you will have cold weather for three or four days at a time, then pleasant, warm weather follows such as you have in England, about the latter end of April or be- ginning of May. In the year 1707, we had the se- verest winter in Carolina, that ever was known since the English came to settle there ; for our riv- ers, that were not above half a mile wide, and fresh water, were frozen over, and some of them, in the north part of this country, were passable for people to walk over. One great advantage of North Carolina is, that we are not a frontier, and near the enemy, which proves very chargeable and troublesome in time of war to those colonies that are so seated. An- other great advantage comes from its being near Virginia, where we come often to a good market, at the return of the guinea ships for negroes, and the remnant of their stores, which is very commo- dious for the Indian trade, besides in wartime, we OF NORTH CAROLINA. 149 lie near at hand to go under their convoy, and to sell our provisions to the tobacco fleets ; for the planting of tobacco generally in those colonies, prevents their being supplied with stores, suffi- cient for victualing their ships. As for the commodities which are necessary to carry over to this plantation for use and merchan- dise, and are, therefore, requisite for those to have along with them that intend to transport themselves thither ; they are guns, powder and shot, flints, linens of all sorts, but chiefly ordinary blues, osnaburgs, scotch and irish linen, and some fine ; men's and women's cloths, ready made up, some few broad cloths, kerseys, and druggets ; to which you must add Haberdasher's wares, hats, about five or six shillings a piece, and a few finer ; a few wiggs, not long and pretty thin of hair ; thin stuffs for women ; iron work, as nails, spades, axes, broad and narrow hoes, frows, wedges, and saws of all sorts, with other tools for carpenters, joiners, coop- ers, shoemakers, shave locks, &c., all which, and others which are necessary for the plantations, you may be informed of and buy at very reasona- ble rates, of Mr. James Gilbert, ironmonger in Mitre tavern yard, near Aldgate. You may also be used very kindly for your cuttlery ware, and other advantageous merchandises, and your cargoes well sorted by Capt. Sharp at the Blue gate in Can- non street, and for earthern ware, window glass, grindstones, niillstones,paper, ink, powder, saddles, BT 150 LAWSON'S HISTORY bridles, and what other things you are minded to take with you for pleasure or ornament. And now I shall proceed to the rest of the vege- tables that are common in Carolina, in reference to the place where I left off, which is the natural history of that country. OF THE VEGETABLES OF CAROLINA. The spontaneous shrubs of this country are the lark heel tree ; three sorts of honeysuckle tree, the first of which grows in branches as our pie- mento tree does, that is, always in low, moist ground; the other grows in clear, dry land, the flower more cut and lacerated ; the third, which is the most beautiful, and, I think, the most char- ming flower of its color I ever saw, grows betwixt two and three feet high, and for the most part, by the side of a swampy wood, or on the banks of our rivers, but never near the salt water. All the sorts are white ; the last grows in a great bunch of these small honeysuckles set upon one chief stem, and is commonly the bigness of a large turnep. Nothing can appear more beautiful than these bushes, when in their splendour, which is in April and May. The next is the honeysuckle of the forest ; it grows about a foot high, bearing its flowers on small pedestals, several of them standing on the main stock, which is the thick- ness of a wheat straw. We have also the wood bind, much the same as in England ; princes fea- ther, very largo and beautiful in the garden ; tres OF NORTH CAROLINA. 151 colores, branched sun flower, double poppies, lu- pines of several pretty sorts. Spontaneous and the sensible plant is said to be near the mountains which I have not yet seen ; safflower, (and I be- lieve the saffron of England would thrive here if planted) the yellow j essamin is wild in our woods of a pleasant smell. Evergreens are here plenti- fully found of a very quick growth and pleasant shade ; cypress or vliite cedar, the pitch pine, the yellow pine, the white pine with long leaves, and the smaller almond pine, which last bears kernels in the apple, tasting much like an almond, and in some years there falls such plenty as to make the hogs fat. Horn beam, cedar, two sorts, holly, two sorts, bay tree, two sorts, one the dwarf bay, about twelve feet high, the other the bigness of a middling pine tree, about two feet and half diame- ter; laurel trees, in height, equalizing the lofty oaks, the berries and leaves of this tree dies a yel- low ; the bay berries yield a wax, which besides its use in chirurgery, makes candles, that in burn- ing, give a fragrant smell. The cedar berries are infused and made beer of by the Bermudians, they are carminative, and much of the quality of juni- per berries ; yew or box I have never seen or heard of in this country. There are two sorts of myrtles, different in leaf and berry. The berry yields wax that makes candles, the most lasting and of the sweetest smell imaginable. Some mix half tallow with this wax, others use it without mixture ; and these are fit for a lady's chamber, and incompara- bletopass the line withal and other hot countries, because they will stand when others will melt, by the excessive heat, down in the binacles. Ever- green oak, two sorts; gallberry tree, bearing a black berry with which the women dye their cloths and yarn black ; 'tis a pretty evergreen and very plentiful, growing always in low swampy grounds, and amongst ponds. "We have a prim or privet, which grows on the dry, barren, sandy hills by the sound side ; it bears a smaller sort than that in England, and grows into a round bush, very beau- tiful. Last of bushes, (except savine, which grows every where wild,) is the famous yaupon, of which I find two sorts, if not three. I shall speak first of the nature of this plant, and afterwards ac- count for the different sorts. This yaupon, called by the South Carolina Indians, casse- na, is a bush that grows chiefly on the sand banks and islands, bordering on the sea of Carolina ; on this coast it is plentifully found, and in no other place that I know of. It grows the most like box of any vegetable that I know, being very like it in leaf, only dented exactly like tea, but the leaf somewhat fatter. I cannot say whether it bears any flower, but a berry it does, about the bigness of a grain of pepper, being first red, then brown. "When ripe, which is in December, some of these bushes* grow to be twelve feet high, others are three or four. The wood thereof is brittle as myr- tle, and affords a light ash colored bark. There is sometimes tound of it in swamps and rich low OF NORTH CAROLINA. 153 grounds, which has the same figured leaf, only it is larger, and of a deeper green. This may be occasioned by the richness that attends the low grounds thus situated. The third sort has the same kind of leaf, but never grows a foot high, and is found both in rich, low land and on the sand hills. I don't know that ever I found any seed or berries on the dwarfish sort, yet I find no differ- ence in taste, when infusion is made. Cattle and sheep delight in this plant very much, and so do the deer, all which crop it very short and browze thereon wheresoever they meet with it. I have transplanted the sand bank and dwarfish yaupon, and find that the first year the shrubs stood at a stand, but the second year they throve as well as in their native soil. This plant is the In- dian tea, used and approved by all the savages on the coast of Carolina, and from them sent to the westward Indians and sold at a considerable price. All which they cure after the same way as they do for themselves, which is thus : they take this plant (not only the leaves but the smaller twigs along with them) and bruise it in a mortar till it becomes blackish, the leaf being wholly defaced, then they take it out, put it into one of their earth- em pots which is over the fire till it smokes, stirring it all the time till it is cured. Others take it, after it is bruised, and put it into a bowl to which they put live coals and cover them with the yaupon, till they have done smoking, often turn- ing them over. After all, they spread it upon 154 LAWSON'S HISTORY tlieir mats and dry it in the sun to keep it for use. The Spaniards in No$v Spain have this plant very plentifully on the coast of Florida, and hold it in great esteem, Sometimes they cure it as the In- dians do, or else beat it to a powder, so mix it as coffee ; yet before they drink it, they filter the same. They prefer it above all liquids to drink with physic, to carry the same safely and speedily through the passages for which it is admirable, as I myself have experimented. In the next place, I shall speak of the timber that Carolina affords, which is as follows : Chesnut oak is a very lofty tree, clear of boughs and limbs for fifty or sixty feet. They bear some- times four or five feet through, all clear timber ; and are the largest oaks we have, yielding the fairest plank. They grow chiefly in low land, that is stiff and rich. I have seen of them so high, that a good gun could not reach a turkey, though loaded with swan shot. They are called chesnut, because of the largeness and sweetness of the acorns. "White, scaly bark oak — This is used, as the for- mer, in building sloops and ships, though it bears a large acorn, yet it never grows to the bulk and height of the chesnut oak. It is so called, because of a scaly, broken, white bark, that covers this tref, growing on dry land. We have red oak, sometimes, in good land, ve- ry largo and lofty. Tis a porous wood, and used to rive into rails for fences. Tis not very durable, OF NORTH CAROLINA. 155 yet some use this, as well as the two former, for pipe and barrel staves. It makes good clap boards. Spanish oak 13 free to rive, bears a whitish, smooth bark, and rives very well into clap boards. It is accounted durable, therefore some use to build vessels with it for the sea ; it proving well and durable. These all bear good mast for the swine. Bastard Spanish is an oak betwixt the Spanish and red oak ; the chief use is for fencing and clag boards. It bears good acorns. The next is black oak, which is esteemed a du- rable wood under water ; but sometimes it ia used in house work. It bears a good mast for hogs. White iron or ring oak, is so called from the du- rability and lasting quality of this wood. It chiefly grows on dry, lean land, and seldom fails of bear- ing a plentiful crop of acorns. This wood is found to be very durable, and is esteemed the best oak for ship work that we have in Carolina ; for though live oak be more lasting, yet it seldom allows planks of any considerable length. Turkey oak is so called from a small acorn it bears, which the wild turkeys feed on. Live oak chiefly grows on dry sandy knolls, This is an evergreen and the most durable oak all America affords. The shortness of this wood's bowl or trunk, makes it unfit for plank to build ships withal. There are some few trees that would allow a stock of twelve feet, but the firmness and 156 LAWSON'S HISTORY great weight thereof, frightens our sawyers from the fatigue that attends the cutting of this timber. A nail once driven therein, tis next to an impossi- bility to draw it out. The limbs thereof are so cured that they serve for excellent timbers, knees, &c., for vessels of any sort. The acorns thereof are as sweet as chesnuts, and the Indians draw an oil from them, as sweet as that from the olive, though of an amber color. "With these nuts or acorns, some have counterfeited the coca, whereof they have made chocolate, not to be distinguished by a good palate. Window frames, mallets, and pins for blocks, are made thereof to an excellent purpose. I knew two trees of this wood among the Indians, which were planted from the acorn, and grew in the freshes, and never saw anything more beautiful of that kind. They are of an in- different, quick growth, of which there are two sorts. The acorns make very fine pork. "Willow oak is a sort of water oak. It grows in ponds and branches, and is useful for many things. It is so called from the leaf, which very much re- sembles a willow. The live oak grows in the fresh water ponds and swamps by the river sides, and in low ground over- flown with water ; and is a perennial green. Of ash we have two sorts, agreeing nearly with the English in the grain. One of our sorts is tough like the English, but differs something in the leaf, and much more in the bark. Neither of them bears keys. The water ash is brittle. The bark is food for the bevers. OF NORTH CAROLINA. 157 There are two sorts of elm ; the first grows on our high land and approaches our English; the Indians take the bark of its root and beat it, whilst green, to a pulp, and then dry it in the chimney, where it becomes of a reddish color. This they use as a sovereign remedy to heal a cut or green wound, or any thing that is not corrupted. It is of a very glutinous quality. The other elm grows in low ground, of whose bark the English and In- *dians make ropes ; for as soon as the sap rises, it strips off with the greatest ease imaginable. It runs in March, or thereabouts. The tulip trees which are, by the planters, call- ed poplars, as nearest approaching that wood in grain grow to a prodigious bigness, some of them having been found one and twenty feet in circum- ference. I have been informed of a tulip tree, that was ten feet diameter ; and another wherein a lusty man had his bed and household furniture, and lived in it till his labor got him a more fash- ionable mansion. He afterwards became a noted man in his country for wealth and conduct. One of these sorts bears a white tulip, the other a party colored, mottled one. The wood makes very pret- ty wainscot shingles for houses, and planks for several uses. It is reckoned very lasting, espe- cially, underground for mill work. The buds, made into an ointment, cure scalds, innamations, and burns. I saw several bushels thereon. The cattle are apt to eat of these buds, which give a very odd taste to the milk. Beech is here fre- A8 158 LAWSON'S HISTORY quent, and very large. The grain seems exactly the same as that in Europe. We make little use thereof, save for fire wood. 'Tis not a durable timber. It affords a very sweet nut, yet the pork fed thereon (though sweet) is very oily, and ought to be hardened with indian corn, before it is kill- ed. Another sort called buck beech is here found. Horn beam grows in some places very plentifully, yet the plenty of other wood makes it unregarded. The virtues of sassafras are well known in Eu^ rope. This wood sometimes grows to be above two feet over, and is very durable and lasting, used for bowls, timbers, post for houses, and oth- er things that require standing in the ground. 5 Tis very light. It bears a white flower, which is very cleansing to the blood, being eaten in the spring with other sallating. The berry, when ripe, is black ; 'tis very oily, carminative and ex- tremely prevalent in clysters for the colic. The bark of the root is a specific to those afflicted with the gripes. The same in powder, and a lotion made thereof, is much used by the savages to mun- dify old ulcers, and for several other uses, being highly esteemed among them. Dogwood is plentiful on our light land, incli- ning to a rich soil. It flowers the first in the woods ; its white blossom making the forest veiy beautiful. It has a fine grain, and serves for sev- eral uses within doors, but is not durable. The bark of this root infused, is held an infallible reme- dy against the worms. OP NORTH CAROLINA. 159 Laurel, before mentioned ; as to its bigness and use, I have seen planks sawn of this wood, but 'tis not found durable in the weather, yet pretty enough for many other uses. Bay and laurel generally delight in a low, swampy ground. I know no use they make of them but for firewood, excepting what I poke of before, amongst the evergreens. A famous evergreen I must now mention, which was forgotten amongst the rest. It is in leaf like a jessamine, but larger and of a harder nature. This grows up to a large vine, and twists itself round the trees it grows near, making a very fine shade. I never saw any thing of that nature out do it, and if it be cut away close to the ground it will presently spring up again, it being impossi- ble to destroy it when once it has got root. 'Tis an ornamental plant and worth the transplanting. Its seed is a black berry. The scarlet trumpet vine bears a glorious red flower like a bell or trumpet, and makes a shade inferior to none that I ever saw ; yet it leaves us when the winter comes and remains naked till the next spring. It bears a large cod that holds its seed. The may cock bears a glorious flower, and ap- ple of an agreeable sweet, mixt with an acid taste. This is also a summer vine. The indico grows plentifully in our quarters. The bay tulip tree is a fine evergreen which grows frequently here. 1GO LAWSON'S HISTORY The sweetgum tree, so called because of the fragrant gum it yields in the spring time upon in- cision of the bark or wood. It cures the herpes and inflamations, being applied to the morphew and tetters. Tis an extraordinary balsam, and of great value to those who know how to use it. ~No wood has scarce a better grain ; whereof fine tables, drawers,and other furniture might be made. Some of it is curiously curled. It bears a round bur, with a sort of prickle, which is the seed. Of the black gum, there grows with us two sorts, both fit for cart naves. The one bears a black, well tasted berry, which the Indians mix with their pulse and soups, it giving them a pretty fla- vor, and scarlet color. The bears crop these trees for the berries, which they mightily covet, yet, killed in that season, they eat very unsavory, which must be occasioned by this fruit, because at other times, when they feed on mast, bears flesh is a very well tasted food. The other gum bears a berry in shape like the other*, though bitter and ill tasted. This tree, (the Indians report) is never wounded by lightning. It has no certain grain, and it is almost impossible to split or rive it. The white gum, bearing a sort of long bunched flowers, is the most curled and knotted wood I ev- er saw, which would make curious furniture in case it was handled by a good workman. The red sort of cedar is an evergreen of which Caroli- na affords plenty. That on the salts grows gene- rally on the band banks, and that in the freshes is OF NORTH CAROLINA. 161 found in the swawps. Of this wood tables, wains- cot and other necessaries are made, and esteemed for its sweet smell. It is as durable a wood as any we have, therefore much used in posts for houses and sills; likewise, to build sloops, boards, &c., by reason the worm will not touch it for several years. The vessels built thereof are very durable, and good swimmers. Of this cedar ship lods may be exported. It has been heretofore so plen- tiful in this settlement, that they have fenced in plantations with it, and the coffins of the dead are generally made thereof. "White cedar, so called because it nearly ap- proaches the other cedar in smell, bark and leaf; only this grows taller, being as straight as an ar- row. It is extraordinary light and free to rive. Tis good for yard, top masts, booms and bolt- sprits, being very tough. The best shingles for houses are made of this wood, it being no strain to the roof and never rots. Good pails and other vessels free from leakage, are likewise made thereof. The bark of this and the red cedar, the Indians use to make their cabins of, which prove firm and resist all weathers. Cypress is not an evergreen with us, and is therefore called the bald cypress, because the leaves, during the winter season turn red, not re- covering their verdure till the spring. These trees are the largest for height and thickness, that we have in this part of the world ; some of them holding thirty-six feet in circumference. Upon 162 LAWSON'S HISTORY incision they yield a sweet smelling grain, though not in great quantities ; and the nuts which these trees bear plentifully, yield a most odoriferous balsam, that infallibly cures all new and green wounds which the inhabitants are well acquainted withal. Of these great trees the pereaugus and canes are scooped and made, which sort of ves- sels are chiefly to pass over the rivers, creeks, and bays, and to transport goods and lumber from one river to another. Some are so large as to carry thirty barrels, though of one entire piece of tim- ber. Others that are split down the bottom and a piece added thereto, will carry eighty or an hun- dred. Several have gone out of our inlets on the ocean to Virginia, laden with pork and other pro- duce of the country. Of these trees curious boats for pleasure may be made, and other necessary craft. Some years ago a foolish man in Albemarl and his son had got one of these canoes decked. She held, as I take it, sixteen barrels. He brought her to the collectors to be cleared for Barbados, but the officer took him for a man that had lost his senses, and argued the danger and impossibil- ty of performing such a voyage in a hollow tree, but the fellow would hearken to no advice of that kind, till the gentleman told him if he did not value his own life, he valued his reputation and honesty, and so flatly refused clearing him ; upon which the canoe was sold, and, I think, remains in being still. This wood is very lasting, and free from the rot. A canoe of it will outlast four boats, OF NORTH CAROLINA. 163 and seldom wants repair. They say that a chest made of this wood will suffer HO moth or vermin to abide therein. The locust for its enduring the weather, is cho- sen for all sorts of work that are exposed thereto. It bears a leaf nearest the liquorice plant. Tis a pretty tall tree. Of this the Indians make their choicest bows, it being very tough and flexible. We have little or none of this wood in Pampti- cough. The honey tree bears as great a resemblance to the locust, as a shallot does to an onion. It is of that species but more prickly. They bear a cod, one side whereof contains the seed, the other the honey. They will bear in five years from the ker- nel. They were first brought by the Indian tra- ders and propagated by their seed, at the Apaniat- icks in Virginia. Last year I planted the seed, and had them sprung up before I came, from thence, which was in August. Of the honey, very good metheglin is made, there being orchards planted in Virginia for that intent. The sorrel, or sowr wood tree, is so called be- cause the leaves taste like sorrell. Some are about a foot or ten inches diameter. I am unacquain- ted with its virtues at present. Of pines, there are in Carolina, at least four sorts. The pitch pine, growing to a great bigness, most commonly has but a short leaf. Its wood (being replete with abundance of bitumen) is so durable, that it seems to suffer no decay, though 164 LAWSON'S HISTORY exposed to all weathers, for many ages ; and is used in several domestic and plantation uses. This tree affords the four great necessaries, pitch, tar, rosin and turpentine ; which two last are ex- tracted by tapping and the heat of the sun, the other two by the heat of the fire. The white and yellow pines are sawed into planks for several uses. They make masts, yards, and a great many other necessaries therewith, the pine being the most useful tree in the woods. The almond pine serves for masts very well. As for the dwarf pine, it is for show alone, being an evergreen, as they all are. The hickory is of the walnut kind, and bears a nut as they do, of which there are found three sorts. The first is that which we call the common white hickory. It is not a durable wood ; for if cut down and exposed to the weather, it will be quite rotten, and spoiled in three years, as will likewise the beech of this country. Hickory nuts have very hard shells, but excellent, sweet kernels, with which, in a plentiful year, the old hogs, that can crack them, fatten themselves, and make excellent pork. These nuts are gotten in great qualities, by the savages, and laid up for stores, of which they make several dishes and ban- quets. One of these I cannot forbear mention- ing; it is this: they take these nuts, and break them very small betwixt two stones, till the shells and kernels are indifterent small ; and this pow- der you are presented withal in their cabins, in OF NORTH CAROLINA. 165 little wooden dishes ; tlie kernel dissolves in your mouth, and the shell is spit out. This tastes as well as any almond. Another dish is the soup which they make of these nuts, beaten, and put into ven- ison broth, which dissolves the nut and thickens, whilst the shell precipitates, and remains at the bottom. This broth tastes very rich. There is another sort, which we call red hickory, the heart thereof being very red, firm and durable ; of which walking sticks, mortars, pestils, and several other fine turnery wares are made ; the third is called the fiying barked hickory, from its brittle and sca- ly bark. It bears a nut with a bitter kernel, and a soft shell, like a french walnut. Of this wood cogs for mills are made, &c. The leaves smell very fragrant. The walnut tree of America is call- ed black walnut. I suppose that name was, at first, to distinguish it from the hickories, it having a blacker bark. This tree grows in good land, to a prodigious bigness. The wood is very firm and durable, of which tables and chests of drawers are made, and prove very well. Some of this is very knotty, which would make the best returns for England, though the masters of vessels refuse it, not understanding its goodness. Tis a very good and durable wood, to bottom vessels for the sea withal ; and they say that it is never eaten by the worm. The nuts have a large kernel, which is very oily, except lain by, a long time, to mellow. The shell is very thick, as all the native nuts of America are. When it has its yellow outward B8 166 LAWSON'S HISTORY coat on, it looks and smells much like a lemon. The maple, of which we have two sorts, is used to make trenchers, spinning-wheels, &c., withal. Chinkapin is a sort of chesnut, whose nuts are most commonly veiy plentiful, insomuch that the hogs get fat with them. They are rounder and smaller than a chesnut, but much sweeter. The wood is much of the nature of chesnut, having a leaf and grain almost like it. It is used to timber boats, shallops, &c., and makes anything that is to endure the weather. This and the hickory are very tough rods, used to whip horses withal ; yet their wood in substance is very brittle. This tree the vine much delights to twist about. Its good firewood but very sparkling, as well as sassafras. The birch grows all on the banks of our rivers, very high up. I never saw a tree on the salts. It dif- fers something in bark, from the European birch. Its buds in April are eaten by the parrakeetos, which resort from all parts at that season to feed thereon. Where this wood grows we are not yet seated ; and as to the wine or other profits it would yield, we are, at present, strangers to. The willow here likewise differs both in bark and leaf. It is frequently found on the banks of fresh water, as the birch is. The sycamore in these parts grows in a low, swampy land, by river sides. Its bark is quite different from the English, and the most beautiful I ever saw, being mottled and clouded with sever- al colors, as white, blue, &c. It bears no keys OF NORTH CAROLINA. 167 but a bur like the sweet gum. Its uses I am ig- norant of. I never saw any aspin but in Kapahannock riv- er, from whence I brought one, (that was presen- ted me there as a great present) but it died by the way. Of Holly we have two sorts ; one having a large leaf, the other a smaller. They grow very thick in our low woods. Many of them are very straight and two feet diameter. They make good trench- ers and other turnery ware. The red bud tree bears a purple lark heel, and is the best sallad of any flower I ever saw. It is ripe in April and May. They grow in trees gene- rally small, but some are a foot diameter. Pelletory grows on the sand banks and islands. It is used to cure the toothache by putting a piece of the bark in the mouth, which being very hot draws a rhume from the mouth, and causes much spittle. The Indians use it to make their compo- sition, which they give to their young men and boys when they are husquenawed, of which you shall hear farther when I come to treat of the cus- toms, &c., of that people. Arrowwood growing on the banks, is used by the Indians for arrows and gun sticks. It grows as straight as if plained, and is of all sizes. 'Tis as tough and pliable as the smallest canes. The chestnut tree of Carolina grows up towards the hilly part thereof, is a very large and durable wood, and fit for house frames, palisado's sills, and 168 LAWSON'S HISTORY many other uses. The nut is smaller than those from Portugal, but sweeter. This is no tree but called the oak vine, by reason it bears a sort of bur as the oak does, and gene- rally runs up those trees. It is so porous that you suck liquors through a length of two feet. Prickly ash grows up like a pole, of which the Indians and English make poles to set their canoes along in shoal water. It is very light, and full of thorns or prickles, bearing berries in large clus- ters of a purple color, not much unlike the Alder. The root of this tree is cathartic and emetic, used in cachexies. The poison vine is so called because it colors the hands of those who handle it. What the ef- fects of it may be, I cannot relate, neither do I believe that any has made an experiment thereof. The juice of this will stain linen never to wash out. It marks a blackish blue color, which is done only by breaking a bit of the vine off, and writing what you please therewith. I have thought that the East India natives set their colors by some such means, into their finest calicoes. It runs up any tree it meets withal, and clasps round about it. The leaves are like hemlock, and fall off in winter. Of canes and reeds we have many sorts. The hollow reed or cane, such as angling rods are made of and weavers use, we have great plenty of, thought" toone to the northward of James river in Virginia. They always grow in branches and low OF NORTH CAROLINA. 169 ground ; their leaves endure the winter, in which season our cattle eat them greedily. We have them (towards the heads of our rivers) so large that one joint will hold above a pint of liquor. The small bamboo is next, which is a certain vine, like the rest of these species, growing in low land. They seldom, with us, grow thicker than a man's little finger, and are very tough. Their root is a round ball which the Indians boil as we do garden roots, and eat them. When these roots have been sometime out of the ground they be- come hard and make good heads to the ca^es, on which several pretty figures may be cut. There are several others of this kind, not thoroughly dis- covered. That palmeto grows with us which we call the dwarfish sort, but the palmeto tree I have not yet met withal in I^orth Carolina, of which you have a description elsewhere. We shall next treat of the spontaneous fruits of this country ; and then proceed to those that have been transplanted from Europe and other parts. Among the natural fruits, the vine first takes place, of which I find six sorts, very well known. The first is the black bunch grapes which yield a crimson juice. These grow common and bear plentifully, they are of a good relish, though not large, yet well knit in the clusters. They have a thickish skin and large stone, which makes them not yield much juice. There is another sort of black grapes like the former in all respects, save 170 LAWSON'S HISTORY that their juice is of a light flesh color, inclining to a white. I once saw a spontaneous white bunch grape in Carolina ; but the cattle browzing on the sprouts thereof in the spring it died. Of those which we call fox grapes, we have four sorts ; two whereof are called summer grapes, because ripe in July ; the other two winter fruits, because not ripe till September or October. The summer fox grapes grow not in clusters or great bunches, but are about five or six in a bunch, about the bigness of a damson or larger. The black sort are fre- quent, the white not so commonly found. They always grow in swamps and low, moist lands, run- ning sometimes very high and being shady, and therefore proper for arbours. They afford the lar- gest leaf I ever saw to my remembrance, the back of which is of a white horse flesh color. This fruit always ripens in the shade. I have trans- planted them into my orchard and find they thrive well, if manured. A neighbor of mine has done the same ; mine were by slips, his from the roots, which thrive to admiration, and bear fruit, though not so juicy as the European grape, but of a glu- tinous nature. However it is pleasant enough to eat. The other winter fox grapes are much of the same bigness. These refuse no ground, swampy or dry, but grow plentifully on the sand hills along the sea coast and elsewherf , and are great bearers. I have seen near twelve bushels upon one vine of the black sort. Some of these, when thoroughly OF NORTH CAROLINA. 171 ripe, have a very pretty vinous taste and eat very well, yet are glutinous. The white sort are clear and transparent, 'and indifferent small stones. Be- ing removed by the slip or root, they thrive well in our gardens, and make pleasant shades. Persimmons is a tree that agrees with all lands and soils. Their fruit, when ripe, is nearest our med- lar ; if eaten before, draws your mouth up like a purse, being the greatest astringent I ever met withal, therefore very useful in some cases. The fruit if ripe, will presently cleanse a foul wound that cause pain. The fruit is rotten, when ripe, and commonly contains four flat kernels, call- ed stones, which is the seed. 'Tis said the cortex peruvianus comes from a persimmon tree hat grotws in !N"ew Spain. I have tried the drying of this bark, to imitate it, which it does tolerably well, and agrees therewith. It is bind- ing enough to work the same effect. The tree in extraordinary land, comes sometimes to two feet diameter, though not often. There are two sorts of this fruit; one ripe in summer, the oth- er when the frost visits us. "We have three sorts of mulberries, besides the different bigness of some trees' fruit. The first is the common red mulberry, whose fruit is the ear- liest we have (except the strawberries) and very sweet. These trees make a very fine shade to sit under in summer time. They are found wild in great quantities, wherever the land is light and rich ; yet their fruit is much better when they 172 LAWSON'S HISTORY stand open. They are used instead of raisins and currants, and make several pretty kirkshaws. They yield a transparent crimson liquor, which would make good wine ; but few people's incli- nations in this country tend that way. The others are a smooth leaved mulberry, fit for the silk worm. One bears a white fruit, which is common ; the other bears a small black berry, very sweet. They would persuade me there, that the black mulberry with the silk worm smooth leaf, was a white mul- berry, and changed its fruit. The wood hereof is very durable, and where the Indians cannot get locust, they make use of this to make their bows. This tree grows extraordinary round and plea- sant to the eye. The hickory, walnut, chinkapin, and chesnut, with their fruits, we have mentioned before. The hazle nut grows plentifully in some places of this country, especially towards the mountains ; but ours are not so good as the English nuts, hav- ing a much thicker shell (like all the fruits of America, that I have met withal) which in hard- ness exceeds those in Europe. The cherries of the woods grow to be very large trees. One sort which is rarely found, is red, and not much unlike the cornel berry. But the com- mon cherry grows high and in bunches, like Eng- lish currants, but much larger. They are of a bit- terish, sweet relish, and are equally valuable with our small black cherries for an infusion in spirits. They yield a crimson liquor and are great bearers. OP NORTH CAROLINA. 173 Our rasberries are of a purple color, and agree- able relish, almost like the English ; but I reckon them not quite so rich. "When once planted, tia hard to root them out. They run wild all over the country, and will bear the same year you transplant them, as I have found by experience. The hurts, huclde berries, or blues of this coun- try, are four sorts, which we are well acquainted withal ; but more species of this sort, and all oth- ers, time and enquiry must discover. The first sort is the same blue or bilberry, that grows plen- tifully in the north of England, and in other pla- ces, commonly on your heaths, commons, and woods, where brakes or fern grows. The second sort grows on a small bush in our savannas and meads, and in the woods. They are larger than the common fruit, and have larger seed. The third grows on the single stem of a stick that grows in low good land, and* on the banks of rivers. They grow three or four feet high, and are very pleasant, like the first sort, but larger. The fourth sort grows upon trees, some ten and twelve feet high, and the thickness of a man's arm ; these are found in the runs and low grounds, and are very pleasant and bear wonderfully. The English sometimes dry them in the sun, and keep them to use in winter, instead of currants. The Indians get many bushels and dry them on mats, whereof they make plum bread, and many other eatables. They are good in tarts, or infused in liquors. 174 LAWSON'S HISTORY In the same ground, commonly grows the pie- mento, or allspice tree, whose berries differ in shape from those in the West Indies, being taper or conick, yet not inferior to any of that sort. This tree grows much like the hurts, and is of the same bigness. I have known it transplanted to the high land, where it thrives. Our dew berries are very good, but the black berries are bitterish, and not so palatable, as in England. The sugar tree ought to have taken place before. It is found in no other parts of Carolina or Amer- ica, that I ever learned, but in places that are near the mountains. It is most like one sort of maple of any tree, and may be ranked amongst that kind. This tree, which I am told, is of very te- dious growth, is found very plentifully towards the heads of some of our rivers. The Indians tap it and make gourds to receive the liquor, which ope- ration is done at distinct and proper times, when it best yields its juice, of which, when the Indians have gotten enough, they carry it home, and boil it to a just consistency of sugar, which grains of itself, and serves for the same uses, as other sugar does. The papau is not a large tree. I think I never saw one a foot through ; but has the broadest leaf of any tree in the woods, and bears an apple about the bigness of a hens egg, yellow, soft, and as sweet as any thing can well be. They make rare puddings of this fruit. The apple contains a large stone. OF NORTH CAROLINA. 175 The wild fig grows in Virginia, up in the moun- tains, as I am informed by a gentleman of my ac- quaintance, who is a person of credit, and a great traveler in America. I shall be giad to have an opportunity to make trial what improvement might be made of this wild fruit. The wild Plums of America are of several sorts. Those which I can give account of from my own knowledge, I will, and leave the others till a far- ther discovery. The most frequent is that which we call the common Indian Plum, of which there are two sorts, if not more. One of these is ripe much sooner than the other, and differs in the bark ; one of the barks being very scaly, like our American Birch. These trees, when in blossom, smell as sweet as any jessamine, and look as white as a sheet, being something prickly. You may make it grow to what shape you please ; they are very ornamental about a house, and make a wonderful fine show at a distance, in the spring, because of their white livery. Their fruit is red, and very palatable to the sick. They are of a quick growth, and will bear from the stone in five years, on their stock. The English, large black plum thrives well, as does the cherry, being grafted thereon. The American damsons are both black and white and about the bigness of an European damson. They grow anywhere if planted from the stone or slip ; bear a white blossom, and are a good fruit. They are found on the sand banks all along the coast of America. I have planted several in my 176 LAWSON'S HISTORY orchard, that come from the stone, which thrive well amongst tlie rest of my trees, but they never grow to the bigness of the other trees now spoken of. These are plentiful bearers. There is a third sort of plum about the big- ness of the damsons. The tree is taller, seldom exceeding ten inches in thickness. The plum seems to taste physically, yet I never found any operation it had, except to make their lips sore, that eat them. The wood is something porous, but exceeds any box, for a beautiful yellow. There is a very pretty, bushy tree, about seven or eight feet high, very spreading, which bears a winter fruit, that is ripe in October. They call them currants, but they are nearer a hurt ; I have eaten very pretty tarts made thereof. They dry them instead of currants. This bush is very beau- tiful. The Bermudos currants grow in the woods on a bush, much like the European currant. Some people eat them very much; but for my part, I can see nothing inviting in them, and reckon them a very indifferent fruit. "We have another currant, which grows on the banks of rivers, or where only clay hath been thrown up. This fruit is red, and gone almost as soon as come. They are a pretty fruit whilst they last, and the tree (for tis not a bush) they grow upon, is a very pleasant vegetable. The hawthorn grows plentifully in some parts of this country. The haws are quite different from those in England, being four times as big, OF NORTH CAROLINA. 1T7 and of a very pleasant agreeable taste. We make no use of this plant, nor any other, for hedges, because timber is so plentiful at present. In my judgement, the honey locust would be the fittest for hedges ; because it is very apt to shoot forth many sprouts and succors from the roots, besides, it is of a quick growth, and very prickly. The black haw grow| on a slender tree, about the height of a quince tree, or something higher, and bears the black haw, which people eat, and the birds covet also. What virtues the fruit or wood is of, I cannot resolve you at present. Thus have I given an account of all the sponta- neous fruits of Carolina, that have come to my knowledge, excepting services, which I have seen in the Indians' hands and eat of them, but never saw how, nor where they grow. There may very well be expected a great many more fruits, which are the natural product of this country, when we consider the fruitfulness of the soil and climate, and account for the vast tract of land, (great part of which is not yet found out) according to the product of that which is already discovered, which, as I once hinted before, is not yet arrived to our knowledge, we having very little or no correspon- dence amongst the mountainous parts of this pro- vince, and towards the country of Missiasippi, all which we have strange accounts of, and some very large ones, with respect to the different and noble fruits, and several other ornaments and blessings of nature which Missiasippi possesses ; more to be 178 LAWSON'S HISTORY coveted, than any of those we enjoy, to the east- ward of the mountains. Yet when I came to dis- course some of the idolizers of that country, I found it to be rather novelty than truth and real- ity, that induced those persons to allow it such ex- cellencies above others. It may be a brave and fertile country, as I believe it is ; but I cannot be persuaded that it can b% near so advantageous as ours, which is much better situated for trade, being faced all along with the ocean, as the Eng- lish America is ; when the other is only a direct river, in the midst of a wild unknown land, great- est part of whose product must be fetched, or brought a great way, before it can come to a mar- ket, moreover, such great rivers commonly allow of more princes' territories than one, and thus nothing but war and contention accompanies the inhabitants thereof. But not to trouble our readers with any more of this, we will proceed, in the next place, to show, what exotic fruits we have, that thrive well in Carolina, and what others it may reasonably be supposed would do there, were they brought thither and planted. In pursuance of which I will set down a catalogue of what fruits we have ; I mean species, for should I pretend to give a reg- ular name to every one, it's neither possible for me to do it, nor for any one to understand it when done, if we consider that the chiefest part of our fruit came from the kernel, and some others from OF NORTH CAROLINA. 179 the succors, or sprouts of the tree. First, we will begin with the apples, which are the Golden Russet, Pearmain, { Harvey Apple. I cannot tell, whether the same as in England. Winter Queening, Leather Coat, Juniting, Codlin, Redstreak, Long Stalk, Lady Finger. The Golden Russet thrives well. The Pearmains of both sots, are apt to speck and rot on the trees ; and the trees are damaged and cut off by the worm, which breeds in the forks and other parts thereof ; and often makes a circumposition, by destroying the bark round the branches till it dies. Harvey apple — that which we call so, is esteem- ed very good to make cider of. "Winter Queening is a durable apple, and makes good cider. Leather Coat — both apple and tree stand well. The Juniting is early ripe, and soon gone in these warm countries. 180 . LAWSON'S HISTORY Codlin — no better and fairer fruit in the world ; yet the tree suffers the same distemper as the Pearmains, or rather worse ; the trees always dy- ing before they come to their growth. The Redstreak thrives very well. Long Stalk is a large apple with a long stalk, and makes good summer cider. We beat the first of our Codlin cider against reaping our wheat, which is from the tenth of June to the five and twentieth. Lady Finger, the long apple, the same as in England and full as good. We have innumera- ble sorts ; some called Rope apples, which are small apples, hanging like ropes of onions ; Flat- tings, Grigsons, Cheese-apples and a great number of names, given according to every one's discretion. The Warden Pear here proves a good eating pear, and is not so long ripening as in Eng- land. Katharine, excellent. Sugar Pear. And several others without name. The Berga- mot we have not, nor either of the Bonne Chresti- ennes, though I hear they are all three in Virginia. Those sorts of pears which we have, are as well relished as ever I eat any where. But that fruit is of very short continuance with us, for they are gone almost as soon as ripe. I am not a judge of the different sorts of quin- ces, which they call Brunswick, Portugal and Barbary ; but as to the fruit in general, I believe OF NORTH CAROLINA. 181 no place has fairer and better relish. They are very pleasant eaten raw. • Of this fruit, they make a wine, or liquor, which they call quince drink, and which I approve of beyond any drink which that country affords, though a great deal of cider and some perry is there made. The quince drink most commonly purges those that first drink it and cleanses the body very well. The arguments of the physicians, that they bind people is hereby contra- dicted, unless we allow the quinces to differ in the two countries. The least slip of this tree stuck in the ground, comes to bear in three years. All peaches with us are standing ; neither have we any wall truit in Carolina, for we have heat enough, and therefore do not require it. We have a great many sorts of this fruit, which all thrive to admiration, peach trees coming to perfection, with us, as easily as the weeds. A peach falling to the ground brings a peach tree that shall bear in three years, or sometimes sooner. Eating peach- es in our orchards makes them come up so thick from the kernel, that we are forced to take a great deal of care to weed them out, otherwise they make our land a wilderness of peach tress. They generally bear so full that they break great part of their limbs down. We have likewise very fair nectarines, especially the red, that clings to the stone ; the other yellow fruit, that leaves the stone. Of the last, I have a tree that most years brings me fifteen or twenty bushels. I see no foreign fruit like this, for thriving in all sorts of land, and A9 182 LAWSON'S HISTORY bearing its fruit to admiration. I want to be sat- isfied about one sort of this fruit, which the In- dians claim as their own, and affirm they had it growing amongst them before any Europeans came to America. The fruit I will describe as ex- actly as I can. The tree grows very large, most commonly as big as a handsome apple tree ; the flowers are of a redish, murrey color, the fruit is rather more downy than the yellow peach, and commonly very large and soft, being very full of juice. They part freely from the stone, and the stone is much thicker than all the other peach stones we have, which seems to me that it is a spontaneous fruit of America ; yet in those parts of America that we inhabit, I never could hear that any peach trees were ever found growing in the woods ; neither have the foreign Indians, that live remote from the English, any other sort. And those living amongst us have a hundred of this sort for one other. They are a hardy fruit, and are seldom damaged by the north-east blast, as others are. Of this sort we make vinegar ; where- fore we call them vinegar peaches, and sometimes Indian peaches. This tree grows to a vast bigness, exceeding most apple trees. They bear well, though some- times an early spring comes on in February,