n.jSftfllPLifli

*S f\

JOHNA.SEAVERNS

W**

sSif

TUFTS UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES

9

sn

'j&4~

•<ji4^/f

<rfl t^&/?£k£

<*4?ijQ414fl'.

<mu

THE HORSE AND DOG

NOT AS THEY ARE
BUT AS THEY SHOULD BE,

OLD AND ERRONEOUS THEORIES RELATIVE TO

TO THE MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE BROUGHT

FACE TO FACE WITH THE FACTS OF THE

NINETEENTH CENTURY.

BY

H. SAMPLE.

TOGETHER WITH AN ELABORATE AND SCIENTIFIC ESSAY ON

HORSE-SHOEING; ALSO, THE ORDINARY DISEASES OF

HORSES AND DOGS, AND THEIR TREATMENT,

WITH MANY YALTJABLE RECIPES ;

HOW TO TELL A HORSE'S AGE UP TO 2 1 YEARS, AND

A FULL EXPLANATION AS TO HOW HOESES AND DOGS
ARE TAUGHT NUMEROUS TRICKS.

105 Illustrations.

5
1Z

Registered under Copyright Act of Victoria,

INTRODUCTION.

In undertaking the production of this work the author fully
understands the gigantic task he has shouldered. There is
probably no subject so extensively written upon and so little
understood as the one in hand. I think the public will bear me
out in the assertion that there are more balky men than balky
horses.

In consideration of the magnitude of the Horse interests of this
country — the total valuation being seven hundred and seventy-
one millions nine hundred thousand dollars, that valuation of the
same number of Horses actually being one hundred per cent, less
than it would have been had all engaged in training and using
the animal as they should. I feel positive that in this treatise I
can convince every unprejudiced mind that much that has been
written upon this subject by able authors is erroneous, and is not
sustained by the practical experience of intelligent men of
modern times, who will not take mere assertions as truth, unless
it is sustained by the developments of careful and intelligent
scientific and practical observation.

Having devoted eighteen years of my best days in teaching the
proper methods of educating the Horse, and in a field that
extends from the frozen and lakey regions to the Gulf of Mexico
and from the Atlantic to the Pacific Coast, I feel confident that
the knowledge collected will be of great service to the Horse
world. In connection with the training of the Horse, I will give

4 INTRODUCTION.

lqv full and complete system of telling the Horse's age, from the
time of foaling up to the age of twenty-one years — a system that
has given general satisfaction to the horse-men of the day —
together with a complete description, in plain language, of the
symptoms of the diseases of the Horse and the most modern and
specific remedies for their treatment. An elaborate essay on
horse-shoeing, that drew the first prize before the Scottish
Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, will be added
to my work. For the benefit and interest of dog-fanciers, I will
give a chapter on the diseases, training and education of the
Dog. The author is still canvassing the entire country in intro-
ducing his new system of training the horse, and, at the same
time, guarding against impairing their physical structure, or
shortening their period of usefulness and profit. Should I suc-
ceed in this, I feel that I shall be a benefactor, and thereby
secure my highest aim.]

H. SAMPLE.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

The Horse is the noblest animal we have. He assists us
in all the pursuits of life, guides the peaceful plow, and
rushes into battle 'mid the roaring of cannon and the clashing
of musketry. He is man's humble and obedient servant when
properly trained and educated. While he is the most serviceable
and useful, he is the most abused of any domestic animal, as the
statistics of the societies for the prevention of cruelty to animals
will prove. In the most of cases, the abuses that are practiced
upon him arise from the fact that his natural laws and habits are
not thoroughly understood by his manager.

6 PEELIMINAEY EEMAEKS.

Man is governed by education, while the Horse is governed by
fixed laws and instincts. The general impression among men is,
that the horse is a very intelligent animal. Under this misappre-
hension they undertake to manage him from an intelligent stand-
point. For instance, if the horse stumbles or slips down the whip
is applied as an instrument of correction ; if he should run away
and smash up a valuable vehicle, he is taken by the bit, and in
some instances the whip is used in an inhuman manner, as much
as to say, " If you run away again I will kill you." If he balks
in the street or road, the owner or driver, as the case may be, gets
out of the buggy or waggon and rubs him on the head and neck,
saying in horse language, " That is right, my little fellow, every
time you stop I will rub and caress you." After waiting some
time and getting his horse under way again, he jumps to his seat,
and begins whipping the poor beast in the most cruel and
inhuman way, saying to the horse, by his actions, " Every time
you stop when I want you to, I will caress you ; and when you go
as I want you to, I will whip you." Most likely somebody is on
the sidewalk laughing at him, and he, man-like, whips his horse
to show that he is boss. The result is, the horse soon learns to
stop to be treated kindly, and refuses to go, because he is whipped
for going.

The same ignorance is displayed in the blacksmith shop. The
horse or colt is led into the shop to be shod, and when the smith
takes up his foot to prepare it for the shoe, a well-directed kick
sends him half-way across the shop. The owner or groom, stand-
ing at the horse's head, rubs and pats his neck, saying to his
understanding : " That's right, my little boy ; if he takes hold
of your foot again, kick him clean out of the shop. " The smith,
in his anger, attempts to punish the horse as he deserves, but the
owner refuses and says :

PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

" This is my horse. He can kick you as much as he pleases,
but you cannot punish him ; he is mine. I will take him to

another shop and let him kick some other smith. He must be
treated kindly, for this is my way of treating horses."

The proper way to do in a case of this kind would be to take
the horse and put him through a regular course of instructions
before taking [him to the blacksmith shop, handling his foot and
leg in every conceivable manner. If he kicks, punish him ; and
if he stands quiet and submits, treat him with kindness, patting
and caressing him ; thus showing to the horse what you want him
to do. We will speak more fully upon this subject under its
proper heading.

Another very erroneous idea exists not only in this country, but
throughout the civilized world, and that is, when the horse is
approached by the owner or groom he must use the word
" Whoa ! " when the horse is already standing perfectly still. If
he goes to put the harness on — " Whoa ! " if he goes to take the
harness off — " Whoa ! " if he goes to hitch him up — " Whoa ! "
and if he goes to unhitch him — " Whoa I"

In fact when he mounts, dismounts, looks at his mouth to see
how old he is, goes to him when he is hitched and standing

8 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

perfectly still, or approaches him for any purpose whatever, the
word "whoa" is invariably used. It is used so often that it
becomes a habit so strong that a man seldom approaches the
horse without using it. If a little boy should happen to go up
to a horse without speaking to him, his father would take him to
task, and tell him never to go to a horse without speaking to him.
The little fellow will naturally say :

Well, father, what shall I say

9"

The father instructs him to say " whoa." The boy grows up
thinking he has had a good teacher, who understands the horse,
hence he practises what he has been taught, and in this way the
word "Whoa" becomes almost a household word. I say this
teaching is all wrong. Some one will ask the question :

" What will you say ? He will kick if you approach him with-
out speaking."

Anything to give the horse warning of your presence will do,
such as, <( I'm coming, Billy, or Kitty," or any other word you
may choose to use. But never, under any circumstances, say
" whoa" to your horse except he is in motion and you want him
to stop. If the writer understands this word, it means "stop,"
and nothing more.

THE HOUSE'S EYE.

Next we will call the attention of the reader to the Horse's
eye. It is generally understood by horsemen that if the horse is
approached, while in the stall, on the near side, he will stand
quiet ; whereas, if you go on the off side he will squeeze you up
against the stall or kick you ; demonstrating that he understands
you on one side better than he does on the other, especially if he
is of a high-strung, nervous temperament.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS. V

A horse that is trained to carry a rider in a circus ring, in
coming out of the dressing-room he will invariably turn to the
right with the ring-master on his near side. He will notice every
movement of the ring-master's whip and perform every require-
ment with accuracy and promptness. If the same horse is taken
back into the dressing-room and then brought out again into the
arena and turned to the left, he will be just as awkward, when
looking at the ring-master with the off eye, as though he had
never been trained at all.

A colt that is trained to run around a ring at the end of a halter,
with the trainer on the near side, for some time it will be a
difficult task to make him turn and go the other way, with the
trainer on the off side.

This can be illustrated in another way. The Indian's horse is
always mounted from the off side, and in travelling among the
Indians we find it a difficult matter to mount their horses from
the near side, which is the custom with the white man.

The same thing is true of the cow that is accustomed .to being-
milked on the off side. If she is approached on the near side, and
an attempt is made to milk her, she will start off or kick the
bucket over.

The same thing is true of the ox that is trained to work gentle
and quiet with the driver on the near side. Now let the driver go
on the off side and his commands will not be obeyed, but the ox
will be as green and stupid as though he had not been trained at
all, thus proving conclusively to the writer's mind that if we want
these animals trained to understand us on either side, we must
educate both eyes.

This peculiarity of the horse I first discovered in performing
with my educated horse, " Tom," some eighteen years ago. One
day I accidentally got on his off side and commanded him to per-
form a trick that he had performed a thousand times while I was

10 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

on his near side., but to ray great astonishment he refused to do
it. After vain endeavors to force him to perform the trick, I gave
up and returned to his near side, and at the first command he
performed the trick as promptly as usual. If the reader is still
skeptical on this subject, we would advise him to make the follow-
ing experiment : Take any horse that is very much afraid of a
top-buggy, and hitch him to it, putting on a bridle with only one
blind, so that he can look back and see the top of the buggy with
one eye only. Work on him, hitched in this way, until he is con-
sidered perfectly gentle and quiet ; then cut the other blind off of
the bridle, letting him look at the top with the eye that has been
covered, and he will at once become frightened at the top of the
buggy, and attempt to run away.

This is not so in the human. When man sees an object with
one eye only, on looking at the object with the other eye he will
say, " that is the same/' and if a boy is taught a lesson at school
with one eye closed, when he sees the same lesson with the eye
that was closed, he will understand it to be the same lesson. If
we want the horse to understand a lesson with both eyes we must
educate both eyes. In conclusion on this point, I will state for
the benefit of the reader, that the optic nerve crosses or connects
between the eyes and the lobes of the brain in the human, while
in the horse it goes directly from the near eye to the near lobe of
the brain, and from the off eye to the off lobe of the brain, and
therefore making no connection between the eyes and the lobes
of the brain.

Another false idea prevails in regard to the Horse's eye, that it
magnifies objects to seven times their real size. Hence, a man
will appear seven times as large to the Horse as he really is, and
this gives man the power to control him. If this was so, when
the Horse was eating corn off the ear, or going to bite an apple
that was two inches in diameter, he would open his mouth fourtee
inches to receive it. Another case in point : let a horse see an

PRELIMINARY REMARKS 11

opening in the stable a foot wide and lie will imagine it seven
times as large as it really is, and will attempt to work through it.
We might enumerate scores of instances that supporters of this
theory might advance in support of their argument, but think the
above sufficient to illustrate to the reader that the theory is in-
correct.

Then again, some people will say there is great controlling
power in the eye of man. In fact, while I was travelling
through the Blue Glass Eegions of Kentucky, a very prominent
stock-raiser and physician, and a gentleman who was highly
educated, in conversation with me one day in Lexington, stated
that he could plainly see how I had such control and power over
the horse. I had just been teaching a class of gentlemen my art
of managing horses, and as an experiment for the class, I had a
very high-strung, nervous horse, that was very much afraid of an
umbrella, and I was swinging it all around his head, and he (the
horse) stood perfectly quiet and gentle, and I remarked to this
gentleman :

" How do you think 1 got the control of this skittish animal ?
If your ideas are correct, I will own up before all these gentle-
men/' The doctor replied :

" When you took hold of that horse you kept your eye right
on him, and he saw in your eye that you were determined and
not afraid of him. There is great power in man's eye."

In fact, there are hundreds of people who believe the Horse,
Lion, and the Elephant are controlled by this wonderful power
in man's eye. For instance, they claim that the Lion-tamer, on
entering the Lion's den, fastens his gaze on the Lion's eyes, by
which means he controls the treacherous brute. I admit that the
Lion-tamer does keep his eye on the Lion, but in the same manner
that two men in combat eye each other narrowly to anticipate
any offensive move on the part of the adversary. The Lion-tamer

12 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

knows too well the nature of the animal before hiin, and for this
reason he keeps his eye constantly on the Lion to frustrate,
with his club or whip — which he invariably has with him —
any offensive move on the Lion's part. If the reader of this
book is of the opinion that those animals are controlled by
the eye of man, let hitn, the first opportunity that offers, visit a
menagerie, and ask permission of the keeper of the Lion's den
to enter the cage and try the experiment, and after having tried
the experiment, I feel satisfied that he will become thoroughly
convinced that his is a false idea. We know exactly how the
Lion and Elephant are tamed and trained, and what cruelties and
harsh measures are resorted to in their education, thereby
proving to the satisfaction of the author that the eye is not the
controlling power.

THE FIVE SENSES OF THE HOUSE.

The Horse has five senses— like the human being— feeling,
seeing, hearing, tasting and smelling. The strongest of these
five is the sense of feeling, and the part he feels with is the nose
or tip end of the upper lip. This is what he examines all his food
with, and in fact everything that he wants to understand, and by
this means he can understand the nature and character of it
better than by any other one of the senses. For instance, if a
horse is afraid of a buffalo robe, or an umbrella, blanket
or anything of that kind, when you throw it down in a
small lot and turn the horse in, he may see the article or smell it j
this alone will not suffice, until he goes up and touches it with his
nose. After doing this a few times he will become satisfied that it
is harmless and will not hurt him. Should a little breeze come up
and move the umbrella, blanket or robe, it will frighten him some

PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 13

because it operates on the sense of sight. We can familiarise the
horse to any object with one of his senses, and that will not be
sufficient for the others. We may have the horse educated to
submit to any object touching him on any part of the body, and
if it should be moved quickly about him, thereby operating on
the sense of sight, he will become frightened.

He may submit to the object being moved about him so long
as it does not touch him, but if the object should touch him he
is liable to kick or strike. Again., he might be educated to have
the object touch him or see it in all positions, without moving in
the least, but should the same object make a noise, thereby
operating on the sense of hearing, he will again become frightened.
Therefore, if we want a horse to understand things thoroughly,
we must educate all the senses.

An old gentleman once told me of a horse he owned that was
perfectly gentle and quiet in " all harness," but would become
uncontrollable on hearing a noise resembling the rattling of nails
in a tin can. This bad habit he contracted as follows : — The
owner saddled him up and started for town, a distance of some
four or five miles. When he got through his shopping and
started for home, he re-mounted his horse, carrying in his hand
a small tin bucket containing a few nails. Everything went
along smoothly until the horse started into a trot. This caused
the nails in the bucket to rattle and make an unusual noise,
which operated on the sense of hearing, and the horse took fright
and started to run away, thereby giving the old gentleman con-
siderable trouble. He was finally compelled to throw away the
bucket and nails in order to pacify the horse. Ever afterwards
this horse would get frightened at anything on his back that
would make a noise resembling that made by the can and nails.

We could relate numerous similar instances where horses have
become almost useless from being frightened at some particular
object, such as a locomotive, steamboat, street car, load of hay or
covered wagon, etc.

14 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

Another case in point : "While travelling through Wisconsin, I
visited a small village., and while there, sitting in the hotel, some
gentlemen came in who had been to a funeral. In conversation
with them I learned that the deceased, whose funeral they had
attended, had been killed by his horses having ran away with
him. I inquired into the particulars concerning his death, with
this result :

On Decoration Day, when the military and citizens turned out
to do honor and show their respect for the dead soldiers, by
decorating their graves with beautiful flowers, the deceased, with
his family, in a two-horse wagon, started for town. One of his
daughters raised a parasol. The horse looked back and saw it.
He took fright and ran away, throwing the deceased and his
family out, killing him almost instantly and crippling several of
the family.

While I was journeying through North Carolina, a very
eminent physician was killed by his horse throwing him out of
the buggy, when going down hill to the ferry-boat. The breech-
ing-strap accidently broke. This, of course, let the cross-bar of
the shafts come up against him, and the touch frightened him
and caused him to run away with the above result.

When passing through the State of Pennsylvania another
accident of this kind was brought to my notice, that occurred in
Reading. A lady's horse, that was considered perfectly quiet and
gentle, took fright at the smell of a slaughter-house, ran away
and almost killed the lady.

The examples of serious accidents I have given tend to show
the importance of educating the different senses of the horse so
that such accidents may be prevented. The sense of sight
should be first attended to, that the animal may become familiar
with all objects that may come within his vision, and nothing will
then frighten him, be it steamboats, cars, odd-looking objects, or
buffalo robe, etc.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 15

Then again as to the sense of hearing : Accustom your horse to
all sorts of sounds, that he may not be startled on hearing them,
which might cause an unusual, awkward or sudden move on his
part, perhaps straining or breaking some part of the harness or
buggy.

The sense of feeling should be thoroughly educated, so that if
the shaft-bolts drop out, thereby letting the shafts down on his
heels, he would not become frightened at the touch, but under-
stand that it would not hurt him.

Accustom your horse to everything that might tend to annoy
any one of the senses. Then, and then only, can he be considered
thoroughly trained to indifferently overlook all such annoyances
as are likely to fall to the lot of any horse in constant use. I will
speak at greater length on this subject further on.

In presenting this work to the public, I am well aware of the
criticisms it will be obliged to undergo at the hands of horsemen
and others. For, no matter how well a subject of the magnitude
and importance of this one may be presented to the people, there
will always be found those who will differ in their opinions, and
are ready to severely criticise the ideas introduced.

I am well aware of the difficulties inventors and others
devoted to progressive theories have encountered in their laud-
able efforts in the advancement of scientific principles. Professor
Morse, in introducing the wonderful telegraphic system, had cold
water thrown on his invention by men of learning and ability.
By way of illustration : The gentlemen who were chosen from
different parts of the United| States to represent the people in the
halls of Congress, in 1843, we would naturally suppose to be men
of much learning, intelligence and integrity, who would represent
the interests of the people to the best of their ability. But
Professor Morse, in presenting his invention before Congress, met
with severe criticism and opposition at the hands of those gen-

16 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

tleinen, and it was not until 1844 that Congress granted him a
small appropriation for the establishment of a line from Baltimore
to Washington, a distance of only forty miles.

The result of this little experiment is that the whole civilized
world has become one vast network of telegraph wires, and it is
now considered one of the greatest inventions of the age.

We look back over the history of railroads, and see the first
little road that was built in the United States, between Schenec-
tady and Albany, New York, distant only sixteen miles, traveling
at the rate of ten miles an hour, with a stationary engine on top
of the hill to haul up and lower down the small train of cars.
We see the engineer, who was imported from England, with his
broad-rimmed hat and swallow-tailed coat, his barrel of wood and
water on the tender of the locomotive, and we look on top of the
car, and see the brakeman seated, with his foot on the brake,
ready when the whistle blows " down brakes," looking more like
a stage driver in comparison with our brakemen of the present
day. The small coaches, with seating capacity for six or
eight persons, look small indeed when compared to our manin-
cent and commodious Pullman Palace sleeping, dining and par-
lor cars, accommodating fifty to sixty persons each, making up a
train of a dozen cars or more — all drawn by a single monster
locomotive that climbs the snow-capped Eocky Mountains with
apparently little or no effort, bringing the Atlantic and Pacific
shores within a few days' travel of each other, thus binding and
strengthening the bonds between the Eastern and Western
people. When the first steamboat steamed up the Hudson Eiver,
it was looked upon as a miracle ; and, as the hundreds of specta-
tors who lined the shores, gazed with awe and curiosity at the
movements of the walking-beam of the craft, many of them con-
cluded the end of all things was approaching.

We next call your attention to the wonderful invention of Mr.
McCormick, to whom we are indebted for that very ingenious,

PRELIMINARY REMARKS. % 17

useful and valuable piece of machinery, the reaper and self-
binder. See with what opposition his machine met with — first, be-
cause it was an unheard-of thing ; and again, because the laborer
saw how it would do the work of many men at comparatively a
small cost. They even went so far as to intimidate the farmers
who had purchased a mower, threatening to demolish it on sight.
The reaper of that day was a heavy, cumbersome thing, necessi-
tating the employment of four strong horses to haul it through
the grain, whereas now they have so much improved, simplified^
and lightened, at the same time increased its usefulness, that two
ordinary horses might walk through the fields of standing grain,
cutting, binding, and throwing the straw in rows, ready to be
picked up by tbe farmer.

By these few instances mentioned, it will be readily seen by the
reader that all new and progressive attempts at improvement
have invariably met with the severest criticism, opposition and
condemnation.

The author being aware that he is advancing many new,
original and scientific ideas relating to horses, anticipates much
criticism ; but is confident from his long and varied experience,
that if the reader will properly consider and experiment with the
methods recommended in this work, he will be ready to accord
them the credit justly due to their merit.

We are familiar with the various methods employed by the
numerous horse-trainers throughout the United States and
Europe. Such men as the justly celebrated Rarey, who went to
Europe and tamed the vicious horse Cruiser, and afterwards
brought him to the United States, exhibiting him on the stage in
all the principal cities, creating no little excitement and curiosity
by his many performances.

We also have a very high opinion of the widely known and
highly esteemed horse-trainer H. E. Eockwell, who drove his

18 , PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

educated horses, Star and Tiger, without lines, bits or bridle,
through the streets of all the principal cities of the United States
and Canada, attracting the attention and admiration of all persons
who witnessed his wonderful performance.

We might mention numerous other inferior horse-trainers who
have been travelling throughout the United States, teaching
various methods and systems of training horses, and could give
every strap-rope and appliance used for the subjugation of the
horse, from the days of Sullivan, the Irish Whisperer, down to
the present day, but this would take up too much of the reader's
time to no purpose.

The author will do away with all these patent bits, bridles and
appliances, and show that the wildest and most vicious horse can
be managed with a common, ordinary set of harness, such as is
ordinarily used on the farm, in the livery stable, or by private
individuals.

In examining the works of the celebrated gentlemen we have
just mentioned, and various other writers on the subject of man-
aging horses, I find their universal opinion to be that the horse
is a very intelligent animal, and they have endeavoured to
manage and control him from an intelligent standpoint.

Now the writer will endeavor to prove that if the horse had half
as much sense as is attributed to him, he would kick the heads
off of more than one-half of the people who undertake to manage
him. We will endeavor to prove before we get through that the
horse is a machine to a certain extent, and is controlled and man-
aged the same in the hands of a good horseman as the locomotive
is controlled by a skillful locomotive engineer, with one exception.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 19

to manage and control the locomotive, we must have an artificial
motive power, while the horse has been supplied by nature with
motive power. In order to make a horse start, stop, turn to the
right or left, in fact to go where and when we want him to,
we must understand how to control him.

We put the bridle on, with the bit in his mouth, take hold of the
lines, pulling to the right or left, according to the way we want
him to go. And when the horse is trained and educated properly,
he will obey every command, and he has not the intelligence to
resist our control.

The horse is eight times stronger than man, and had he the
intelligence to resist our commands, we could do nothing with
him.

In order for man to be ab le to manage a locomotive, he must
be educated and taught how it should be done properly, and in
accordance with the structure and purposes for which the machine
was constructed. He must know how and when to start, stop,
slacken or increase the speed ; when to feed it with fuel and water,
and how much to give, otherwise serious results may follow.

The same remark will apply to the intelligent handling of the
horse. To fully control his every movement, and guide his foot-
steps, the man must first be taught the best methods of getting
control of the animal — to learn his weak or strong points, that he
may take advantage of them to impress certain things or acts on
the horse's mind. He must learn the cause and effect of every
movement of the horse, and the most likely impressions caused by
certain methods of training.

The locomotive engineer thoroughly understands every part of
his engine and the relation of each part to the others, and the
effect of any effort on his part to guide and control it. So must
the man be educated to understand the horse's natural laws that
govern him, and devise means and adopt plans to overcome him
and make him what he was intended to be — man's humble and

20 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

obedient servant. While man has the power to manage and con-
trol this noble animal, he should not abuse it in the way and
manner in which some cruel and unprincipled men do, by hitching
him to loads too heavy for him to draw, and whipping and abusing
him because he is unable to pull it — thus getting the horse balked
— and driving him to death because he is willing to go ; hitching
him in the hot sun or in the cold and bleak winds — sometimes in
severe storms without blanket or covering — while, perhaps, the
owner or driver is snugly housed and warmly clad.

If the horse was intelligent he would not submit to this treat-
ment, he would break his halter or bridle and seek a place of
shelter.

In 1880 the writer was in Chicago, engaged in teaching his
system of handling the Horse. His attention was called to one
of the most cruel and outrageous performances that was ever
permitted to go on in a civilized community. O'Leary, the cele-
brated pedestrian, and Jack Haverly, the well-known minstrel
man, erected, on a large lot at Lake Front, an immense tent — the
largest, perhaps, ever put up in Chicago — for the purpose of con-
ducting a go-as-you-please race of horses against men, lasting six
and a half long days and nights.

While the men were allowed to go as they pleased, resting
when they felt so disposed, the poor suffering dumb brutes were
compelled to go as their masters dictated. One of the horses
died before the conclusion of the race, and another died shortly
afterwards. Their deaths were caused by the cruelties practiced
on them with whip and spur, and by heartless driving beyond
nature's limit. There were five or six horses entered in this
race, and at the conclusion the poor animals were completely
exhausted and broken down.

We have no objections to men walking themselves to death
if they feel so disposed, but we have a very serious objection to
the forcing of horses into these unnecessary and unprofitable
exhibitions.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 21

We will here take occasion to remark that, had these horses
been possessed of one-half the sense, reasoning power and
intelligence that is generally accorded them, they would most
assuredly have rebelled against such brutal treatment as they
experienced during this race, and demolished the canvas, dis-
persed the spectators who, by their presence, encouraged such
brutality, and kicked the heads off the managers.

This outrageous performance was allowed to go on, undis-
turbed, under the eye of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty
to Animals.

We could relate instances without number, to sustain our
argument on this point, that had the horse the intelligence
credited to him he would never submit to the treatment he
receives at the hands of many who are engaged in the handling,
driving and working him. We are convinced that the
above will clearly illustrate our ideas to the careful
reader.

A great many people mistake the natural instinct of the horse
for intelligence.

Should night overtake a horse in the woods or thicket, at a
place where he had never been before, his natural instincts will
guide him home ; whereas, if an intelligent man be placed in
the same predicament, the chances would be in favor of
his wandering aimlessly about all night and perphas all
day, until he found some person to direct him on his way.

If a horse and man are on a sinking steamboat on the river,
during a dark night, and both are obliged to seek safety, the
horse will boldly strike out and swim to the nearest land, while
the man may be a good swimmer, yet if he cannot see the shore,
even if it be within easy reach of him, is as likely to swim into
the middle of the channel as he is to go to the land.

A little pig placed in a sack, and taken in a buggy some five

22 PRELIMINARY REMARKS.

or six miles from home, if it should accidentally get loose will
return, even if it has to swim rivers and cross ditches to
do so.

A man with all his intelligence, if taken away from any place
under the same circumstances and in a strange locality, could
never return to the original starting point without receiving aid
from some one or by the use of scientific instruments.

The bee, in wandering miles from its hive, gathering honey
from flower to flower, on securing a goodly store of sweets, takes
a direct course to its hive, or, as generally spoken of, makes " a
bee-line for home. "

Man with all his intelligence, education and scientific acquire-
ments, even had he wings and was able to fly like the bee, could
never find his way home in a direct straight line, as does the little
busy bee. From this, we hold that man, with all his attainments
and acquired knowledge, is unable to perform the mysterious
feats that the horse, hog, bee, and we might mention hundreds of
other animals, etc., go through every day.

But we must not lose sight of our main subject, and will return
to the education and training of the horse.

MANAGEMENT OE THE HOUSE.

HOW TO BREAK A COLT PROPERLY.

The first important consideration in the management of a colt
is the proper selection of a yard, corral, or lot, clear of all
obstacles that would be at all liable to injure him, and also to
have a fence around the place of proper strength and heighth to
prevent him from jumping out.

We would suggest that the yard or corral be some thirty-five or
forty feet square, if convenient.

If the colt is domesticated and halter-broke, lead him into this
lot or corral. Prepare yourself with a pole some ten or twelve
feet long, from an inch to an inch and half in diameter, made of
hickory, ash, or any hard, tough wood, sand-papered smooth.

If he is not halter-broken, drive him into the corral with other
stock, then turn out all the others.

Take one end of the pole in both hands. Now proceed to handle
the colt with the other end. This at first may scare or excite
the colt very much — but get him in one corner of the corral-
Then reach out your pole and touch the neck or withers as though
it was your own hand. We can do this, knowing that if the colt
should kick or strike, the trainer will be ten or twelve feet away
from him, and will not get hurt.

24 MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

Handle and touch him with this wooden hand until he becomes
reconciled to the sense of touch. As the colt becomes more docile,
the trainer can keep rubbing and touching him on the neck with
the pole, and gradually approach closer and closer as the colt gets
used to being touched.

If he should whirl and attempt to kick, handle him a little
roughly with the end of the pole, and get him into the corner
again, and proceed as before, rubbing him on the top of the neck
with the pole until he will allow you to approach close enough to
enable you to place your hand on him, being careful not to reach
out your hand too quickly for fear of frightening him by the
sudden motion of the hand.

Eemember all this time that the colt does not understand what
you are going to do. When you succeed in getting your hand on
him, rub him very gently and quietly until you can rub about the
head and neck. Do this for some little time, then take a common
five-ring leather halter and place it on the colt's head quietly and
easily.

Be careful, in placing the strap over his neck, to do it very
gently, so that it will not strike his neck, causing him to jump
and escape.

When the halter is on him, take hold of it and draw his head
toward you slowly, rubbing the colt with the right hand along his
side and back until you can get it back near the tail.

Be careful all the time that the colt does not whirl and kick at
you. As soon as the colt will submit to this, catch him by the
hair of the tail with your right hand, holding firmly to the halter
with the left hand at the same time. This will bring him into a
circling position, and cause him to move around. Give him a
few quick swings around, holding firmly to the head and tail.
This will soon make him dizzy ; then slacken up a little on the
tail and he will stop.

MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE. 25

Then tie a single knot in the hair of the tail, draw it tight and
hold the knot firmly in your right hand ; divide the hair evenly
between the knot and the end of the tail with the fingers of
the left hand ; slip the lead of the halter between the hair of the
tail, and draw the head and tail together, or near enough to get
his body in a circling position, making the halter fast to the tail
with a half hitch, and let him go. [See cut No. 1.]

No. 1.
But be careful at first not to tie him up too tight, as this will
cause him to whirl around very fast and make him fall down,
which is unnecessary.

Use your judgment according to the horse you are operating
on. If he is high-strung and of a nervous temperament, it will
not be necessary to tie him as short as if he was of a dull, stupid
disposition.

When the colt is fixed in this position — head and tail — his
strength is divided against itself. The more he pulls with his
head on the halter, the more he pulls his own tail. He will soon
learn to stand hitched, and we are sure that a colt hitched in this
way will never learn the bad habit of breaking the halter.

The philosophy of this system is to impress the colt at once
with the fact that he cannot break loose.

26 MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

He can lie down, walk about, run round, etc., still he is hitched
and can't get loose.

The natural instinct of the colt is to pull upon anything that
may be placed upon his head or neck, and we take this method of
putting pressure on the head.

The next duty of the trainer, after the horse has submitted to
this treatment and has learned to stand perfectly still, is to take
the pole used in the first instance, holding on to one end and
handling the colt with the other. This may start him to going
again. [See cut No. 2.]

No. 2.

"We now want to operate on the sense of feeling, and by having
this pole touch him while he is going around, he will soon find
out that it will not hurt him, and will stop as before.

The object in view, in handling the colt with the pole, is to
accustom him to being touched all over. If he should kick or
strike, do not be alarmed, but keep the end or side of the pole
touching him on some part of the body all the time. While he is
going around handle his front and hind legs with this pole, being
careful at the same time not to hurt him.

It will take from three to five minutes to accustom the colt to
being handled all over with the pole.

MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE. 27

This will prepare the colt for the harness. Now, while he is
still under the influence of this whirling around, unfasten his
head and tail and put on the harness as quick as possible.

The colt will stand perfectly quiet for two reasons— first,
"because he is dizzy from whirling around ; and, second, "because
he has been touched all over with the pole, and the touch of the
strap or harness will not frighten him.

I use a common set of harness, with a common jointed bit.
Have the bit as large as possible, so as not to cut and scar the
colt's mouth.

Put the harness on the colt and tie the traces into the ring of
the breeching, and instead of putting the lines through the rings
on the saddle, put them through the shaft tugs and fasten them
to the bit, using long lines, so as to be out of range of the colt's
heels_never using any check-rein in breaking a colt.

Now you are ready to teach your colt to guide.

The lines should be placed in this manner, so as to give us a
leverage power on the side of the colt, to force him to the right or

No. 3.
left. Instead of attempting to make him go straight ahead, first
teach him to turn readily to the right or left. (See cut No. 3.)
Instead of pulling on the lines slow and steady, pull with a

28 MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

quick jerk on one line, turning the horse half way around, then
reverse. This will teach him quickly that he must come around
when you pull on the line. Then let him go straight ahead or
around the corral. Every little while turn him around quick and
short, forcing him to go the other way. When he turns easily
and readily by a pull on the line, then he is ready to be taught to
stop and start at your command.

While he is walking or trotting around the corral, say "Whoa \"
Of course he will not understand what this means. Then pull up
sharply and quickly on both lines. Eepeat this until the colt
will stop at the word " whoa." This will generally take from five
to ten minutes.

Secondly, you want to teach your colt to start promptly as well
as to stop ; this you can do by touching him sharply on the heels
with the whip. Always use common sense in the use of the whip
and do not slash and welt him all over the body. You had better
have no whip at all than to use it injudiciously.

When you command a horse to move forward never repeat the
command, and if he refuses to start promptly then touch him
keenly on the heels with the whip.

Now, your colt is taught to turn to the right or left, and stop
readily at the word of command. And when he does stop go up
to his side quietly and gently, pat and rub him, showing to him
that when he obeys your command you will treat him kindly, and
if he refuses to obey, you will pimish him by jerking the lines.

The next operation with the colt will be to get him accustomed
to the sound or crack of the whip.

This you can do in a very few minutes by taking hold of the
end of the lines in one hand, cracking and snapping the whip
with the other. Allow me to say here, that your lines should be
sewed together and not buckled, as the buckle will have a tend-
ency to tear and cut your hands.

MANAGEMENT OF HORSE.

29

Every time the colt starts forward jerk him sharply on the
lines, and he will soon learn to stand quietly while the whip is
being cracked about him.

Every time he stands quietly while you are cracking the whip,
approach and caress him.

When this is accomplished and you can hold him with perfect
ease, we have another lesson to impart to him.

Let your assistant take hold of the long pole and stand in the
centre of the corral, while you drive the colt around him. Have
your assistant touch him quickly on any part of the body with the
end or side of the pole. (See cut No. 4.)

No. 4.

This will represent some break-downs, and be very likely to
frighten and startle the colt again.

Stop the colt as soon as possible, keeping your assistant still

touching him lightly with the end of the pole. Start up your

colt again, and repeat this until he submits being touched with
the pole.

While he is in motion walking round the corral, touch him

30

MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

lightly with the pole on the legs and belly, getting him accus-
tomed to being touched all over.

This lesson is to prepare him for receiving the shafts, and he
should be handled thoroughly with the pole in every place where
the shafts and cross-bar would be likely to touch him, even in the
case of an accident, as this treatment is really to guard against
accidents that may occur at any time after he is hitched up.

Always be sure that you can hold your colt when he is excited
or frightened.

Most any person can hold hold a colt that will not try to get
away ; but you want to be able to hold him when he is trying
his best to get away.

After the colt has submitted to all of the above treatment and
goes along kindly and gently, it would seem as though he was
ready to be hitched up.

You will bear in mind, however, that thus far the colt's senses
have been but partially educated. Now take an old tin can of any
kind that will make a noise ; tie it to the hair of his tail and
allow it to drag behind him, so as to accustom him to the rattling
of a wagon or any other noise likely to be made while he is on the
road. [See cut No. 5.]

No. 5.
Drive him around on a walk at first, then in a trot. If he
attempts to run away, stop him as quickly as possible, and bring
him to a walk again.

MANAGEMENT OP THE HORSE. 31

Eepeat this lesson until the colt has become familiar with the
noise made by the tin can tied to his tail.

Always have the can tied far enough from his heels so it will
not become tangled about his legs.

The next lesson to teach the colt will be that of becoming
accustomed to the sight of an umbrella,, or anything likely to
meet his gaze suddenly on the street and frighten him.

This can be done in a few minutes by letting your assistant
take an umbrella, opening it suddenly in front of him while you
are driving him around the corral.

If he whirls and attempts to run away, straighten him up
quickly with your lines and make him go past the umbrella.

Eepeat this until he becomes accustomed to the sight of the
umbrella. Then we have him educated to understand the sight,
touch and sound.

This lesson will be sufficient for the first day.

If the colt, during this training, should get into a profuse
perspiration, before putting him away it is essential that he
should be " scraped out" and rubbed perfectly dry, and good care
taken to prevent his catching cold.

The next day, take the colt into the corral and harness him,
and commence to train where you left off, driving him around,
testing him with pole and can.

If he is easily handled and managed, after handling him a few
minutes, he will be ready to hitch into the shafts or alongside of
another horse, as the trainer may think best.

"We always prefer hitching them in shafts first while in the
training yard.

When the colt is hitched to the cart, as explained in another
part of this book, you will see the breeching strap is not fastened,

d& MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

but hanging loose, as represented in cut No. 6. This is done so
that the cross-bar of the shafts will touch him when he stops, in
fact, when you put the colt in the shaft for the first time you
should allow the cross-bars to touch him, and if it seems to alarm
him he needs more training with the pole before he is hitched in
to prepare him to receive this unusual touch without becoming
frightened.

No. 6.
A colt handled this way for one hour — say half-an-hour each
day, will be better broken and safer than if handled in a gentle,
quiet, easy manner for six months.

We believe that it is necessary to test the colt in every con-
ceivable manner before risking our lives behind him in a buggy
or a wagon.

On the same principle, the boiler on a steamboat is tested by
the Government Inspector, by putting on a cold-water pressure
before getting up steam, to ascertain whether the boiler has the
requisite strength to resist the pressure brought to bear on it by
future use.

If it will stand the cold-water pressure, which is greater than
that produced by steam, the Inspector pronounces it safe, and
then, and not until then, will the owners be permitted to get up
steam and run the vessel.

MANAGEMENT OF THE HOBSE. 33

On the same principle, we consider it safer to " test the colt "
in every conceivable manner to guard against serious accidents
that are likely to oceu* every day with a colt that is handled in
the old fashioned way.

When the trainer has hitched the colt up, and is driving him
on the road, it will be necessary, for a few days, to watch his
every movement closely.

If he should attempt to kick, run, or do anything that is

objectionable to the trainer, punish him with the bit, and he

will soon learn to act right, because he is punished only when
he does wrong.

A colt will often kick, strike or bite as a means of protection
to himself, and not because he is naturally vicious; and the
trainer must remember that the colt was not made for the har-
ness, but the harness was made for the colt.

There are a great many people under the impression that the
colt was made for the saddle, harness and bridle. This is a
mistaken idea. The saddle, harness and bridle were made for
the colt and when we put them on him, we violate the laws of
nature, and as self-preservation is one of the laws of nature, the
colt may kick or attempt to run in order to protect himself.

In order to illustrate this, we will say :

If a fly should alight on the horse's neck he will shake his
head to remove it ; if it alights on his breast he will put his
mouth down to bite it off ; should it alight on the side of his
body, he will put his head around to do the same thing ; if on his
front leg, he wiU stamp his foot on the ground quickly; if it
alights on his rump, he will switch his tail and sometimes kick
up; if on the hind leg, he will kick with his hind foot to
remove it.

If we take a pin and prick him lightly, he will do the same as
he did to remove the fly.

c

34 MANAGEMENT OF THE HOESE.

So that should any other object touch him lie is likely to do
the same in order to protect himself. Hence the necessity of
accustoming the colt to the sense of feeling, hearing and seeing,
as directed in the preceding lesson.

The writer is of the opinion that every colt and horse, let him
be ever so gentle, should be drilled as directed in the above
lesson.

While operating with a very bad kicking horse in Peru,
Indiana, after driving him around in the cart a few minutes,
standing upon the axle-tree and holding the kicking horse by the
tail (see cut No. 7, p. 39) one of the members of my class, a well-
known banker, said he did not believe his horse would stand to
be driven that way. I invited him to bring his horse out the next
day before the class, and I would try him. This horse was considered
verv quiet and gentle, but the banker wanted to have the pressure
put on, so he brought him out the next day, and, after giving the
horse a thorough training, according to my method, the banker said :

" I always thought he was gentle, but now I know it."

A Pennsylvanian with whom I was personally acquainted, who was
considered a good horseman, and who employed a careful, pains-
taking young man, concluded to break his colt.

The farmer directed his man John to be very kind, easy and gentle
with the colt, and not to let him step over the traces, nor to have the
singletree touch him, for fear of frightening and causing him to run
away.

John followed all the directions given concerning the manage-
ment of the colt, never even allowing him to step over the traces,
nor letting the singletree, or any portion of the harness, hang
loosely and strike him. If John, while driving the colt, saw any un-
usual object, on the roadside, he would take particular pains to
drive out of sight of the object for fear of the colt becoming
frightened at the sight of it.

He would also take special care never to approach the railroad

MANAGEMENT OF THE HOESE. 35

depot or flour mill for fear the unusual noise and rattling of the cars
and machinery would startle the colt, causing him to attempt to run
for home, and perhaps breaking the cart.

In fact, John would never permit the colt to approach an
object near enough to understand the nature of it, nor to have
the harness or tugs touch him about the feet or between his legs,
to prevent any liability of his kicking. Neither would he let
him go near any place or object where he would hear any unusual
noise.

Having handled and driven the colt in this gentle and careful
old-fashioned manner for about a year, the old gentlemen con-
sidered him perfectly broken, and as being a kind and safe animal
that had never yet kicked or ran away.

The following season he had another colt to break, and John was
given the task.

The first colt broken, being considered thoroughly trained, was
given to a new hand to do plowing with.

This colt accidentally stepped over the tug, by which act the tug
was forced against the inside of his legs, where as yet he had never
been touched by any object.

The consequence of his being touched in this unhandled part
was that he got frightened, and, obeying the impulse of Ms
nature, kicked out at the objectionable tug in self-preservation,
and started off at a run to free himself from his imaginary
danger.

The old gentleman, on seeing the fleeing horse, with fragments of
the harness dangling about him, was naturally amazed to see the colt
that during all the year in which he had been handled and driven by
John, and had never shown a disposition to kick or run away, acting
in such a manner.

He had been impressed with the idea that the colt was perfectly
trained and gentle.

36 MANAGEMENT OF THE HOKSE.

His next though t, on seeing the frightened steed, was to abuse the
unfortunate man who had been using him, and blaming him for the
damage done, which he himself was really to blame for.

Had the colt been put through the preparatory course of training
which I have suggested under the head of " How to Break a Colt
Properly," he never would have become frightened and kicked himself
free from the plow, injuring his limbs, learning a bad trick, and
causing other damage.

Many would agree with the old gentleman in thinking it was the
carelessness of his man, in letting the colt step over the trace, which
caused this accident and all the trouble.

The writer will at once proceed to place the blame where it justly
belongs — on the old gentleman.

He should have said to John :

" John, I Icnoio you are a good horseman ; take this colt out in the
lot, put the harness on him, and accustom him to everything before
you hitch him up — or, in other words, * Sample-ize' him, by putting
things between his legs, tying tin cans to his tail, fire-crackers, or
anything that would have a tendency to frighten him." We are fully
satisfied, had this been done, the accident would never have occurred
from the colt's simply stepping over the trace.

A EUNAWAY HOKSE.

First find out, if possible, what caused him to run away ; and
when the trainer has found out, take him into the lot or corral and
tie him, head and tail, with the halter, and handle him with the pole,
as directed in the lesson for training the colt. Whatever has been
the cause of his running away will frighten him the most, so that it
will be necessary to operate more on this point than any of the
others ; and when he submits to the sense of feeling, seeing and
hearing, put the harness on as directed in the lesson on the colt, and

MANAGEMENT OF THE HOKSE. 37

handle him in the same manner as the colt was handled, until you
can hold him by the lines with perfect ease, while the assistant is ex-
citing him with the pole, umbrella, or any other object which would
have a tendency to make him run away.

The trainer will remember that it will be necessary to get the
mouth so that he can hold him with perfect ease before undertaking
to excite him to resistance.

At this point we will state that there is no man who can hold a
horse by main strength ; hence the necessity of giving him thorough
training with the lines and bit, as directed in the training of the colt's
mouth.

Teach the horse to start and stop well, even under excitement, and
repeat this lesson two or three times before hitching him up.

In ordinary cases this will take from thirty to forty minutes, to
give the horse a good lesson — always being careful to take good care
of your horse on concluding your lesson.

KICKING HOESES.

A kicking horse is one of the most dangerous horses we have, and in
a very bad ease is considered almost worthless.

While I was travelling through Eichmond, Virginia, a very ugly
kicking mare was brought to me, that had been traded from stable to
stable until she was considered as worth very little money.

A gentleman — one of my scholars — asked me one day if I thought
she could be broke, and I replied :

" Yes — certainly she can."

I think she was one of the worst mares I ever came across in my
travels of over eighteen years.

I gave her a short lesson lasting thirty minutes, every day for a
week, and some of my scholars began to talk as though my plans
would not work on her.

38 MANAGEMENT OF THE HOESE.

On the seventh day she gave up, and I told her owner to take
her and hitch her up and drive her, which he did.

He drove her himself for about one week. I stayed in Richmond
four weeks, and when I left there his man was driving her all oyer
the city, delivering groceries.

Another had kicker in Virginia, I met at Woodstock, where I
formed a class.

The subject furnished me to handle was a gray horse, fifteen years
old, that the owner told me had been kicking all his life, and had
been traded round from one horseman to another, until it was con-
sidered impossible to drive him in harness.

We commenced with this horse about four o'clock in the afternoon,
before the class, and worked with him until six o'clock in the even-
ing. Myself and assistant worked on him faithfully, using our best
efforts, and some of the class went off with the impression, when we
adjourned at six o'clock, that he never could be broken.

The owner of the horse, a hotelkeeper, and others who were deeply
interested, turned out again the next morning to see us handle the
horse.

When we commenced on him — after putting on the harness — every
time we would touch him with the pole he would kick, and every
time he would kick wre would punish him with the bit, until finally,
after a hard fight of two hours, resting occasionally to get our wind,
he quit kicking, to the great astonishment of all present except myself
and assistant.

We drove the horse, without breeching, to a two-wheeled cart,
standing on the axle and holding the horse by the tail. (See cut
No. 7.]

Every time we stopped him, the cross-bar of the shafts would
bump up against him. This was in the fall of 1876, during the Presi-
dential campaign. •

MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.' 39

I was advertised to perform at Stanton the next day, and had to
leave "Woodstock.

While in Stanton, I got a letter from the owner of the gray kicking
horse of Woodstock, stating that he had driven the horse, with his
family in the wagon, and if I would return to Woodstock he would
give me a certificate that would carry me triumphantly through the
valley.

I relate these two extreme cases for the purpose of encouraging the
trainer, should he meet with such brutes as I have mentioned.

No matter how mean and obstinate they may be, you can conquer
them by persevering in this treatment, and the average kicking

No. 7.
horse, by this treatment, can be controlled in from thirty to forty
minutes.

We could mention hundreds of such cases, but have selected these
two because they were the worst we have met in all of our travels.

The horses above mentioned should receive the same treatment as
recommended for the breaking of the colt.

In fact, there is but one way to break a horse of any bad habit in
harness, and that is to treat him kind and gently when he does all
that we require of him, and punish him when he refuses.

40 MANAGEMENT OP THE HOESE.

BALKY HOESES.

The balky horse is one that will try the horseman's skill, power,
ability and temper, more than all the kicking, runaway, bucking,
striking, biting, and shying horses, or any other kind of horse that we
can think of.

There are several kinds of balky horses.

There are those that will not go in any harness, light or heavy.

Then, again, there are horses willing to go in a light vehicle, but
will refuse to pull an ordinary load. There are some that are hard to
start from the stable or lot, but will go along all day after they are
started ; there are horses willing to go straight ahead on a road, but
if you wish to turn them to the right or left, they will stop — these
we call " bridle balkers."

In fact, any horse is a balky horse when he refuses to go when and
where we direct him to go. To break him and make him a true and
valuable horse, we will begin with him the same as though he was a
green colt, and put him through the same training and lessons as are
directed in breaking the colt, always being careful to keep the point
we gain in working with him, until we have the complete mastery
over him on that point, never expecting him to pull all he is able to
at the first lesson, but beginning with a light load, and gradually
increasing it until he gains confidence in himself. Then he will pull
all that any ordinary horse ought to pull.

The first point to be gained with a balky horse in giving him his
lesson, is to teach him to start and stop, turn to the right or left, go
forward or backward at the command of the trainer. This you want
him to do before you hitch him to the cart. And when you do hitch
him in, be careful not to have the cart too heavy. A two-wheel cart
is the best.

The kind of cart I use in hitching the colt or horse to the first time

MANAGEMENT OF THE HOBSE. 41

is simply two wheels and an axle, without any seat, and a good pair of
buggy or express-wagon shafts. This cart will be illustrated in cut
No. 7, page 39, showing the breaking of the colt.

We never use this cart except in the training-yard, and then for the
purpose of getting the colt used to shafts and load.

We can teach the horse to pull by strapping one of the wheels to
the shaft, after he goes well with the wheels loose. Sometimes we
fasten both wheels in this way, and we can increase the weight as we
feel disposed, by tying an empty sack to the axle, and throwing in a
shovel or two of sand or dirt at a time, in proportion to the amount
that the horse will draw. In this way, the wheels being locked, we
can make as heavy a load as necessary, by adding sand and dirt to the
sack. Stop and start the horse often while hitched in this way,
always encouraging him by kind treatment when he obeys promptly.

When you come to a hill, or any place where the horse refuses to
go, after making a short effort to start him, should he still refuse,
take him right out of the cart or vehicle, put the lines through the
shaft-tugs and drive him up and down the hill and all around the
place he refuses to pass with the cart.

By passing the lines through the shaft-tugs you are able to keep
his head from you and his tail toward you, thus preventing him from
turning around and twisting the lines out of your hands. Should
you leave the lines through the rings of the saddle as they were
when you were driving in the cart, he would perhaps whirl around
and twist the lines around his body and out of your hands, and in
some cases get away and give you considerable trouble.

While in Chambersburg, Penn., a very eminent physician brought
a balky horse to me to have him broke. After giving the horse one
lesson, my assistant was driving him on the road hitched to a buggy,
and he stopped at the foot of the hill, refusing to go any further.

42 MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE

He took the horse out of the shafts and fixed the lines as directed
above, and drove him up and down the hill several times. At this
moment the doctor happened to come along and asked him what he
was doing with the horse. He replied :

" I can manage the horse better than I can the horse and buggy,
hence I leave the buggy on the roadside until I can get the horse to
go without it. In other words, if the horse refuses to go when there
is no buggy hitched to him, there is no use to hitch him to it. Always
break your horse first and the buggy afterwards, and never undertake
to break the horse and buggy at the same time."

In conclusion, we would say that this is the simplest and most
lasting way to manage a balky horse.

We could give various methods for starting the horse as laid down
by other trainers, but to start a horse when he is " balked," or to make
him pull at one time, will not make him start or pull at all times.

We must be able to teach the horse that he is what he was intended
to be, man's willing and obedient servant at all times and places and
under all circumstances.

In a figurative way of expressing it, we must make him believe that
we can put him through a knot-hole, and when we get him through the
plank, show him by our actions that we are not only his master, but
also his best friend.

HOW TO BREAK A BAD HALTER-PULLER.

Of all the objectionable tricks and bad habits the horse is subject
to, one of the worst is that of pulling back or " halter-breaking,"
and has, perhaps, been the cause of a greater number of accidents
than any other, and causing the destruction of numberless bridles,
halters, &c.

To break a horse of this habit properly and for all time, the first
thing would be to investigate the cause, or why the horse pulls back

MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

43

on the halter. His natural instinct is to refuse to be held by the
head. When the animal's head is fastened he will make an effort to
get loose, and as long as he finds he is successful in getting loose he
will continue to do so. Therefore, should he set back on the halter
and attempt to get loose — his head being in a trap prepared for him
by the art of man — he will naturally pull to get his head out, and if
any part of the halter should give way or break, his head will become
free, and every time he gets free by pulling, he will be encouraged to
pull harder the next time, until it will take a very strong halter to
hold him, especially if he is a large, heavy horse.

There are various plans devised for the breaking of this habit.

No. 8.

Cut No. 8 represents a horse pulling on the halter while fastened
according to my method of breaking this habit. Take a half -inch
rope fifteen feet long ; double about one-half of it, and put the
doubled end of it under the tail for a crupper, wrapping a piece
of cloth around the crupper part to prevent the rope cutting his
tail.

Pass the longest end of the rope around his neck from the off side
to the near side ; tie it to the short end in a flat knot on the near
•side, and have the knot come about where you buckle the girth of the
harness. Then take the long end and place it under the belly and

44 MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

tie it to the rope on the off side. This will make a girth or belly-
band to prevent it from slipping up. When the rope is placed on
in this way, as shown in cut No. 8, put on a strong rope or leather
halter ; take the lead of the halter, running it through a ring in the
manger, tree, or side of the building. After running the lead of the
halter through the ring fastened to either of the places named, tie
the end of the lead to the rope in front of his chest, as shown in
the cut.

Now the horse is not only hitched by the head, but to the rope
running under the tail also ; and when he starts to pull, the lead of
the halter will slip through the ring. The rope will then catch him
under the tail, and he will soon jump forward to relieve the pressure
under the tail. "When he does this, go up to his side near his head,
patting him gently on the neck, allowing him to stand a few minutes ;
then take a cane or stick, and running up quickly to frighten him
back again, and should he run back, strike heavily on the lead of the
halter in front of his head until he jumps forward.

When he comes forward again treat him kindly as before, repeat-
ing this operation several times until he refuses to pull back. If
the horse is afraid of an umbrella, blanket or anything of that kind
run towards him with the object in your hands and try to frighten him
back, and when he comes forward repeat the rubbing on the neck as
before, or until the horse refuses to pull or tighten on the halter.
After this lesson he can be hitched at night in the stable without any
danger of hurting himself.

This treatment will break the most confirmed " halter-puller "
in existence, after giving him a lesson lasting half an hour as above for
one or two days.

MANAGEMENT 01 THE HORSE.

45

If he pulls on the bridle and not on the halter, make a strong rope
bridle and hitch the same with the bridle as you do for " halter-
pulling," by running the rope lines through the ring and tie to the
rope in front of the chest.

DIFFERENT DISPOSITIONS AND TEMPERA-
MENTS OF THE HORSE.

The lesson on the management and training of the colt and horse
would be incomplete without calling the attention of the pupil to
their different temperaments and dispositions.

While all horses are governed by the same fixed laws and instincts,
their temperaments and dispositions are as varied and numerous as
those in man.

No. 9.

Some are naturally very quiet and gentle in their dispositions, so
much so that it would appear as though they would never do any-
thing wrong, but, by improper management on the part of the trainer

46 MANAGEMENT OF THE HOESE

or owner, they may become so vicious and bad as to make them almost
as worthless as the horse Cognac, well known all over California, that
became so vicious and unmanageable, that when he got loose and out
of his stall, on the Fair Grounds of Petaluma, Sonoma County, he
killed a man who undertook to return him to his stall.

This horse at one time was as tractable and gentle as it was possible
for a horse to be, but by the improper treatment he suffered at the
hands of his groom while in Illinois, he became very vicious and un-
manageable.

The groom, in order to show the intelligence of the horse, would
put his arm up to the horse's mouth, coaxing him to take hold of it,
in the same way as is often done by foolish people, who are not
thoroughly conversant with the habits of the horse. In doing this,
the groom succeeded in getting the horse to bite, or pinch him, on the
arm, with his teeth.

One day Cognac bit him harder than usual. This enraged the
groom, and he took the horse out of the stable and began to whip him
in an unmerciful manner about the body and legs, until the horse lay
down, squealing from the pain inflicted by the groom. And when he
got up, the once gentle and kindly-disposed horse was transformed
into a demon, with a disposition to eat up and destroy his master, who
had wantonly and cruelly beat him, or any one who attempted to
manage him.

It was considered, by numerous judges, that this horse had no
sense, as the term is generally used among horsemen, but the writer
looks upon this horse as having more sense than if he had allowed the
groom to punish him wantonly and cruelly for doing that which he
— the groom — had taught him to do, without making an effort to
retaliate.

I was in Chicago in 1880, and my attention was called to
another very bad horse, called the Duke of Normandy, that had

MANAGEMENT OF THE HOESE. 47

previously got his groom under his knees and chewed hirn up, and
had crippled and injured several other men.

He wa3 led about from one stand to another by a jockey-stick,
fastened to the bit, in order to prevent his jumping on the groom and
killing him.

If the groom, having him in charge, should get on his back to ride
him, he would reach around and bile him on the leg, consequently
they were obliged to walk and lead him.

The owner of this horse lived at Norwood Park, about eleven miles
from Chicago. I went one day to see him concerning his horse, and,
in the course of conversation, I found that the horse would make a
good subject to handle before my claas, and the gentleman had him
brought to my tent in Chicago, and in less than forty minutes from
the time I began to handle him, the owner was on his back, riding
around the ring, and the horse was perfectly gentle and quiet. I
hitched this horse to a buggy and drove all through the city of
Chicago, with perfect safety, also turned him loose in my ring and
had him follow me around, without halter or bridle, perfectly quiet
and gentle.

This horse was about seventeen hands high and weighed eighteen
hundred pounds, and was naturally of a mild, even temper.

On investigating the early history of this horse, I learned that he
was imported from France at the age of two years, and was perfectly
kind and gentle until he was spoiled by the unskillful management of
his groom.

We could mention many such cases of good-tempered horses, having
been ruined and made ugly by mismanagement on the part of grooms
and others.

Then again there are other horses that are naturally stupid, sullen,
and of treacherous dispositions. (See cut No. 10.)

These horses will require very little aggravation at the hands of
the trainer in order to draw out their mean traits.

48

MANAGEMENT OP THE HORSE.

If they are of the balky or sullen order, great pains should be taken
by the trainer to overcome this as much as possible by studying how
to get the best of them, and not allowing them to gain any points.

No. 10.

They will often attempt, while the trainer is handling them, to do
just the reverse of what is required of them. This we must never
allow them to do, but must work on that point constantly and firmly
until they do as we are trying to teach them. Always treat the horse
with kindness when he does that which we demand of him. If he is
of a treacherous disposition, be very careful and see that he gets no
advantage of you. Always be sure that you have every advantage on
your side.

Some people are of the opinion that a horse knows when you are
afraid of him. He knows nothing about your thoughts. He
only knows what you can do with him, and if you should under-
take to handle him and he finds out by experience that he
can handle you,, he will continue to do so as long as he finds your
inability to force his submission. As soon as he finds your

MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

49

ability to force submission lie will yield at once to your commands.
I have handled hundreds of horses and made them perfectly sub-
missive when I have been very much afraid of them. I have
heard men say they never saw a horse they were afraid of. A man
that will stand behind a horse and let him kick his head off has
not as much sense as the horse. Always use great care and
judgment in handling horses like the ones I have alluded to.

There is another class of horses that are of a nervous and high-
strung temperament [see cut No. 11], that will fight and resist

No. 11.

every effort to confine :them. While in San Bernardino, Cali-
fornia, I came across a horse of this kind. He had been caught
up wild, and resisted every effort made to domesticate him.

When I commenced to handle him in the way and manner I
have laid down in the lesson for training the. colt, he acted more
like a hyena than a horse. Some of my class said he was crazy,
D

50 MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

or " loco "as it is expressed in that locality — this is a Spanish
word for crazy. One of the class said he knew the band from
which this colt was taken and that every one of them was " loco."

After I had handled him about thirty minutes he gave up the
fight from the fact that he found out I was not going to hurt him.
The next day I drove him on the streets and he acted like a good,
sensible horse, and showed no signs of being " loco."

When I first came to California advocating my new system,
there were quite a number of good horsemen who said :

Perhaps this man can handle the Eastern horses that are do-
mesticated, but we don't think he will meet with much success in
handling our "broncos."

But after staying in Los Angeles six weeks, handling their
" broncos," and driving them through town with tin cans tied to
their tails, they became satisfied that my system would break
wild horses as well as those domesticated, as this article of Janu-
ary 2d, 1882, from the Los Angeles Times, will prove :

The citizens of Los Angeles witnessed one of the most interest-
ing processions that has paraded the streets of this city for many
a day, yesterday. For some time past Professor Sample has been
in this city teaching the lovers of that noble animal, the horse,
how to train him. From the exhibition yesterday it was fully
proven to the satisfaction of the most skeptical that Sample is the
most thorough horse-trainer in the United States, if not in the
world. The owners of the horses in the procession will testify
that less than thirty days ago every animal was ungovernable to
a considerable extent. But the reader, if he saw the parade,
noticed that every horse was led by boys not over twelve years of age.
This is proof positive that every man should understand the modus
operandi of taming horses. The procession started from Temple-
street stable about 12 o'clock noon, and marched through the
principal streets. The Professor led the caravan, seated in a fine
buggy drawn by two magnificent black horses. The City Band

MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE. 51

followed: then came the riproaring mustangs that had been
trained. The first one had a motto on his sides which read : « I
was the boss of Denker's ranch, but Sample got the best of me."
Then followed nine horses with mottoes which read like this : ei I
was the bucking bronco, that had my tail full of cuckle burrs and
I have been Sampled;" -I was a nullifier, but have been con-
quered ;" « I was Wild Bill of Temple-street stable ;" « I was
the worst pill in the box, but Sample got the best of me ;" I was
a balker, but Sample made me go ;" « I wouldn't back, but I do
now ;" « I am the one that crippled my master and killed my
mate, but will never do it again." The last one had : "I was a
high kicker, but Sample took it all out of me."

TO BREAK A HORSE THAT IS AFRAID OF A
LOCOMOTIVE.

A horse that is afraid of a locomotive is a very unpleasant kind
of horse to drive, and can be broken of the habit in a short time.
One of the instincts of the horse is to be afraid of anything he
does not understand ; in fact, fear, either directly or indirectly,
is the cause of all bad habits.

The natural instinct of the horse is to follow after any object
he may not understand, providing the object is moving from
him; therefore, instead of forcing the horse up to the°object
when it is moving toward him, be it locomotive or what not, get
the horse in a position that you can ride or drive him after
the object.

If he is afraid of a band of music that is coming toward him
it will be the best to take him around in some way and get in
the rear of the band. In this way he will become familiar with
the noise while following it. This is what we call educating the
sense of hearing. If it is something that frightens him whe&n he
sees it, get him accustomed to the sight of it in the same manner
that you accustom him to the sound— by letting him follow
after it.

52 MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE.

By way of illustration : a horse will follow a top-buggy on the
road or street without becoming frightened,, but should the same
buggy approach him or come up behind hini, he will become
frightened, thereby obeying his natural instinct in attempt-
ing to get away from an object he does not understand. A
couple of gentlemen, who took lessons from me some years ago,
while I was illustrating this point, one said :

" That's so."

He went on to state to the class : " When myself and com-
panion were travelling out West, we came up with a band of wild
horses, and they followed us at a distance for two days ; some-
times we would turn our horses around and start toward the
band to get a good look at them, and they would invariably turn
and move from us, but when we resumed our journey the wild
horses would again follow us, always keeping off at a safe
distance."

So, in accustoming a colt or horse to any object that would be
inconvenient to use in the training-lot, proceed as directed above.
In fact, to break a horse of any bad habit, such as shying on the
road, refusing to stand quietly while being hitched or unhitched ;
being restless while you are getting in or out of the buggy,
rearing up, running backwards, jumping over things in the road,
or, in fact, any bad habit that the horse is subject to, can be
thoroughly eradicated by putting him through a thorough course
of training, as directed in the handling of the colt, thus getting
him under your control.

Never go into partnership with your horse, or compromise
with him when he disobeys, but let him know that you are
what you were intended to be — his master, and he your ser-
vant.

After giving your horse a thorough course of training, if you
ever have got into the miserable and uncalled-for habit of trying
to make the horse go by jerking on the lines, as most ladies and

I

MANAGEMENT OF THE HORSE. 53

quite a number of gentlemen do, by all means desist at once and
never repeat it. The main object is to be uniform in your
language and actions toward him. Never say whoa ! to him
unless you want him to stop, and if you should happen to say
whoa when you did not want him to stop, stop him.

If you tell him to go and he refuses to obey, touch him with
the whip, but do not jerk on the lines. By giving him the above
lesson he will soon understand your commands, and will act
promptly. You should be careful and not pull much on the lines,
for his mouth will be a little tender after the lesson. Never use
a severe bit, as it is unnecessary. The plain-jointed bit will be
sufficient to hold any horse if he is properly drilled. Some people
make their horses foolish by holding the lines tight when the
horse starts.

No. 0.

HOW TO TELL A HORSE'S AGE
HIS TWENTY-EIRST YEAE.

TO

There are few persons, even among veterinary surgeons, who
are able to tell the exact age of a horse after he has attained his
tenth year, and this being the case, how can we expect those who
have neither anatomical or physiological knowledge of the mouth
to tell his age.

Horse-dealers are frequently accused of deceiving their cus-
tomers in the age of horses. The purpose of this lesson is entirely
to set aside this deception, and to enable all, sellers, buyers, and
those who never before knew anything about the age of horses,
to thoroughly understand the age of all horses, from the time of
foaling until he has reached his twenty-first year.

AGE OF THE HORSE. 55

The writer, who has theoretically and practically studied the
-the horse's mouth for eighteen years, has had opportunities of
examining the mouths of thousands 'of horses of all ages, thus
thoroughly convincing himself of jthe reliability of the rules he
has laid down for telling the age of the horse.

He has been teaching this new system for nearly ten years, and
has taught thousands of persons, and caused numerous discussions
upon the subject.

While in Terra Haute, Indiana, there was no little excitement
created by the teaching of this system. In fact, some of the
horsemen who were skeptical on the subject, wrote to Wilkes'
Spirit of the Times to ascertain if it were possible to tell the horse's
age up to twenty-one years. The answer came, " No," with a
long explanation, giving many reasons why it could not.

The principal point presented in Winces' argument was, that the
cups or marks entirely disappeared in the teeth at nine years of
age ; and that, after the cups or marks were gone, it was impossi-
ble to ascertain with any degree of certainty how old the horse
was.

(Every new invention, idea, and system of teaching any science
or art, must have a discoverer or inventor ; and as those new
ideas, systems, and inventions are made public, there is, of course,
much discussion, criticism, and opposition created by those
familiar as well as by those unfamiliar with the subject.)

The writer contends that the horse's mouth undergoes a con-
tinual change from the time he is foaled to the day he dies ; and
that it is much easier to determine his age from ten years up to
twenty-one, than it is from one to ten, and we feel confident that
we will be able to substantiate these statements as we proceed
with the lesson.

The horse has forty teeth, and, as we use only twelve of them
.to determine his age, we will have very little to say about

56 AGE OF THE HORSE.

the other twenty-eight, as it will have a tendency to confuse the
reader. The twelve teeth we use to tell the age by are located
in the front of the mouth, six on the upper and six on the lower
jaw. [See cut No. 1, of lower jaw of foal six months old.]

No. 1.
Outside view of a six months old colt's lower jaw.

We will name these teeth " nipper," e< middle," and " corner "
teeth — NN, the nippers ; MM, the middle ; CC, corner — as marked
on the teeth in the cut.

The upper jaw has six teeth — the same as the lower. The cut
simply represents the lower jaw, front view. There are six on the
upper jaw that will be understood by the same names — nipper,
middle and corner. The nipper, middle and corner teeth of the
upper jaw will come directly over the nipper, middle and corner
teeth of the lower jaw.

These twelve teeth are all that we use to determine the age of
any horse, mare, mule, jack or jenny, and the first thing for the
reader to do will be to familiarize himself with the names and
location of these teeth — nipper, middle and corner, or N, M and
0 ; so that, when we speak about nipper, middle and corner teeth,
the reader will know just where to look in the horse's mouth for
the teeth we are speaking about.

The rule we lay down for telling the horse's age applies to the
mare as well as the horse. Mares do not generally have canine
or hook-teeth, commonly called tusks or bridle-teeth.

AGE OF THE HORSE.

57

This is one of the reasons for discarding those teeth in deter-
mining the age, as it would have a tendency to deceive or mislead
the pupil. (See cut No. 2.)

No. 2.

INSIDE VIEW OF THE LOWER JAW OF A FOAL'S MOUTH AT SIX MONTHS.— By

looking closely at this cut it will be perceived that both the outer and
inner edge of the nippers are worn, while only the outer edge of the
middle is worn off, and the corner teeth have not yet come in contact with
the upper jaw.

The average time for the foal to get his first four teeth, called
nippers, is fourteen days. He gets the next four, called middle,
between fourteen days and three months. Between three months
and six months he gets the last four, called corner. So you will
understand by this that the colt, at the age of six months, has
twelve teeth. These are all the teeth we use to tell the age.

dllB&,

No. 3.

The colt's teeth as they appear when drawn out of the jaw.

This will represent six colt teeth as they would appear if pulled

out of the jaw. The three on the left, marked H, represent the

outside view of the crown. The three on the right, marked E,

58

AGE OF THE HORSE.

represent the inside view of the crown of the teeth. G represents
the roots of the middle and corner teeth, from an inside view,
and I represents the ontside view of the roots.

By this cnt the pupil will readily understand the anatomical
structure of the colt's teeth. These teeth will all disappear from
the colt's mouth between the age of two and five years.

By carefully noticing the ends of the teeth in^ cut No. 2 you
will see that the crowns or part that the colt eats with has a hole
or mark inside, and by the upper and lower jaw coming in con-
tact with each other causing the teeth to wear off at the crown.
These cups or marks will disappear at the age of one year from
the nippers of the foal. (See cut No. 4.)

No. i.
This is the inside view of a colt's mouth one year old.
| [ The middle and corner teeth still retain the cups or marks.
When we look for the cups in the colt or horse, always look on
the lower jaw, because the lower jaw is movable and the upper is
stationary and never moves except when the horse moves his
head.

For this reason there will be more friction on the lower jaw
than on the upper, hence the lower teeth will wear away sooner
than the upper, and in looking for the marks or cups in the
■crown of the tooth always and invariably look on the lower jaw.

Cut No. 5 represents the lower jaw of a two-year-old, in which

AGE OF THE HORSE. 59

the edges of the nipper and middle teeth and their marks or cups
are worn down, and the inner edge of the corner tooth is just
commencing to wear.

No. 5.

InsideMew^of a two-year-old, when the cups are worn off of the nipper and
middle, a small cup remaining in the corner teeth.

At the age of two years and a half the colt teeth commence to
drop out and horse teeth take their place ; this we call shedding
thejteeth.

There is a difference between the teeth naturally shedding and
being knocked or pulled out.

Sometimes they are pulled or knocked out for the purpose of
representing the animal to be older than he really is.

During the late war between the North and South there were
a great many mules sold to the government that had their nippers
pulled out, sometimes at the age of eighteen months, to make
them appear as being two years and a half old, this age being the
youngest at which the government would receive them. And
thousands passed into the Government employ for mules that
were " coming three years," when really they were only from a
a year to eighteen months old.

While in Chicago I frequently visited the sale-stables. On one
occasion I was an eye-witness to this circumstance :

A gentleman, wishing to purchase a horse, inquired the age of
a fine large colt some sixteen hands high. The dealer informed

GO

AGE OF THE HORSE.

him that the colt was five years and two months old. Out of
curiosity I ventured to examine the colt's mouth, and found it
was only three years old.

The dealer's object in representing the colt to be five years old
when he was but three was, that the purchaser desired a horse
of suitable age for work, whereas a three-year-old would not
answer.

Had the Government Inspectors of horses and mules known
that the animals brought to them were but eighteen months old
instead of two and one-half years, they would have refused them
as unfit for the work required. Had the Government Inspectors
and the Chicago man we have alluded to been familiar with this
method of telling the horse's age and the anatomical structure of
the mouth, it would have been impossible for them to have been
deceived as to the age of the horse.

No. 6.
Inside view of lower jaw, when two and a half years old, with the hor
pers just coming through the gum.

Cut No. 6 represents the lower jaw two years and a half old,,
with the colt teeth called " nippers" shed out, and the horse
teeth of the same name have taken their'place.j

It will be seen, by carefully examining the above cut, that the
horse teeth now coming in have not {filled up all the vacancy in
the horse's mouth caused by the shedding of the colt teeth.

When the horse teeth on the lower [and upper jaws come in
contact with each other, and are worn perfectly straight across.

AGE OF THE HORSE. Q\

the crown, so as to fill up all the vacancy caused by the colt teeth
"shedding out/' the colt will then be three years old. At this
time the colt will have four horse teeth and eight colt teeth. In
other words, the nippers above and below will be horse teeth,
while the middle and corner teeth above and below will be colt
teeth.

No. 7.
Inside view of the lower jaw, three years and a half old.
The way we distinguish the horse teeth from the colt teeth, is
by the horse teeth having a groove running down the centre of
the tooth from the crown to the gum on the outside surface,
while the colt teeth are smooth on the outside surface, resembling
your finger-nail, as shown in Cut No. 1.

Cut No. 7 represents the lower jaw of a colt three years and a
half old.

The colt teeth, called f< middle," are gone, and the horse teeth
have cut through the gums. At four years old, these horse teeth,
called " middle," shall have filled up all the vacancy, and be perfectly
straight across the crown. Then the colt will show four horse
teeth on the lower and four on the upper jaw, with only four colt
teeth remaining, namely, the four « corner " teeth. When the
colt is four years old, it will be seen, by a close examination of the
colt's mouth, that he will have eight horse teeth and four colt
teeth ; the four nippers and four middle will be horse teeth, show-

62 AGE OF THE HORSE.

ing a groove on the outside surface ; while the four corner teeth
that remain in the jaw will be colt teeth, with no groove on the
outside surface, and the crown of the tooth will be worn perfectly
smooth, as represented in cut No. 7.

No. 8.

Inside of the lower jaw of a colt four years and a half old, with the tushes
and corner tooth through the gurn.

Cut No. 8 is a representation of the lower jaw of a four-and-
half -year-old colt. It will be seen by the above cut, that all the
colt teeth are gone, but the corner teeth are not yet fully de-
veloped. These corner teeth will be full size at five years. Then,
all the teeth, nipper, middle, and corner, will be horse teeth, and
will all show the groove on the front except the corner teeth.

No. 9.
Outside view of lower jaw at five years of age.
The above cut is a correct likeness of the outside view of the

AGE OF THE HORSE.

63

lower jaw of a five-year-old horse, showing the grooves in the
nippers and middle teeth, while showing the corner teeth as
smooth. The corner teeth of the upper and lower jaw at five
years are just commencing to wear, and it will be seen by Cut
No. 9 that the corner teeth are wider than they are long.

The length of the tooth is from the gum to the crown, and the
width is across the crown. The tooth marked c is wider than
it is long.

No. 10.
Inside view of the lower jaw at five years.

This cut shows the inside view of the lower jaw at five years
of age. There is but slight difference between this and the
sis-year-old.

No. 11.
Inside view of a horse's mouth at six years.

Cut No. 11 shows the lower jaw of a six-year-old horse. By

4 AGE OF THE HORSE.

examining this cat it will be noticed that there is a large cup in
the corner teeth, and a small one in the middle teeth. The cups
have almost disappeared from the nippers, and sometimes at six
years the cups are gone entirely from them, which would repre-
sent a seven-year-old horse. But if the pupil has a doubt as to
the horse's age he can determine by the examination of some of
the other teeth. We have shown that the corner teeth at five
years old are wider than they are long, and until the horse has
passed six years of age the upper corner teeth, on both sides of
the jaw, will show wider than they are long. The horse will not
be over six years old, although the cups may have disappeared
from the nippers of the lower jaw.

No. 12.
Inside view of horse's mouth at seven years.

Cut No. 12 represents the inside view of the lower jaw of a
seven-year-old horse. It will be noticeable that the cups are
entirely gone from the nippers, and almost gone from the middle,
while^the corner-teeth are worn dull on the inside. At this time
the upper corner-tooth will show longer than it is wide. This is
the only difference perceptible between the six and seven-year-
old horse.

AGE OF THE HORSE. 65

Cut No. 13 shows the lower jaw of the horse aged eight years,
in which the teeth have all become equally worn, and in the
corner teeth alone is to be found any trace of the cup. The

No. 13.
Inside view of a horse at eight years.
lower jaw will be smooth at this time except the corner teeth,
which will show a small cup.

No. 14.

The above cut shows the lower jaw of a nine-year-old horse,
where all the teeth have become smooth.

This is the general rule— but there are exceptions ; at least

there are shell-teeth, or holes in the teeth, that would tend to

deceive the beginner, and if we had no other marks to go by^

except the cups, we would find it a difficult task to determine the

E

66 AGE OF THE HORSE.

horse's age to a degree of certainty. But we understand other
marks that are more reliable than the cups we have just spoken
of.

Some unprincipled men might make false cups in the teeth to
make the horse appear younger to those persons not fully conver-
sant with all the marks in the mouth. It will be noticed, by
examining the outside of the teeth of horses between the ages of
five and ten years, that they have smooth corner teeth, as shown
in cut No. 9.

At ten years of age there will appear a small groove on the
upper corner teeth close to the gum, about half the size of a grain
of wheat, and this groove will appear longer as the horse advances
in age ; and when he arrives at the age of twenty-one years, this
groove will show all the way down the tooth, as it appears in the
nipper and middle teeth of the following cut :

No. 15.
Side view of t' e horse's ;aw, at the age of fifteen years.

The above cut represents the side view of the upper jaw of a
horse fifteen years old, with the groove half way down the upper
corner tooth; or, in other wcrds, to make it plain, the groove

AGE OF THE HORSE. 67

shows down the tooth one-half the distance from the gum to the
crown. In measuring the length of the tooth in this case, we
always measure from the gum to the longest point of the tooth ;
but, to be better understood, we will say, measure the longest side
of the tooth to get the proper length. If this groove should show
half-way down the longest side of the tooth, as represented in
cut 15, the horse will be fifteen years old without a doubt.

If it shows three-fourths of the way down the longest side, he
is eighteen years ; and if it shows all the way down he is twenty-
one years old. According to this, it will be seen that the groove
starts close to the gum at ten, and will reach down to the crown
at twenty-one. It takes eleven years for the groove to reach the
crown, hence, one-eleventh the length of the tooth represents one
year ; two-elevenths, two years, and so on, and when the groove
is half-way down the tooth, as represented in cut 15, the horse
is then fifteen and a half years old— providing we count the
fraction— from the fact that one-half of eleven is five and a half,
and the groove not making its appearance on the tooth until the
horse arrives at the age of ten ; adding the ten to the five and a
half, counting the fractions, makes him fifteen and a half
years old.

But as we are perfectly satisfied to be able to come within a
year of the horse's age, we will throw this fraction out and simply
say fifteen years old. We will lay down a simple rule to examine
this tooth and groove by :

If the groove is just starting on the tooth, the horse is ten
years old ; one-eleventh down the tooth, he would be eleven years
old ; two-elevenths, he would be twelve years old ; three-elevenths,
thirteen years old ; nearly half-way, fourteen years old ; half-
way, fifteen ; a little below half-way, sixteen years ; still a little
farther down, seventeen years j three-fourths of the way down,
eighteen years,- a little more than three-fourths of the way,
nineteen years, and almost to the crown, twenty. When the
groove reaches from the gum to the crown, he is twenty-one,

(J3 AGE OF THE HORSE.

measuring with the eye. This being so far as we propose to
teach, scientifically, the horse's age, the reader, by a close
examination of horses' mouths that he knows the age of positively,
and comparing them with the above rules, will soon be able to
tell correctly the age of any horse from the time he is foaled to
twenty-one years.

We have endeavored, in the above instructions, to give in plain
language the simplest, yet the most scientific method of telling
the horse's age known.

In order to still further explain the anatomical and physiologi-
cal structure of the teeth, we will refer the reader to the follow-
ing illustrations :

No. 16.
Teeth as they are located in the jaw.

Cut 16 represents the way and manner in which the teeth are
located in the jaw of the horse. The roots, as they are
commonly called, are narrow at the ends, while the crown
of the tooth is much wider. The dotted line, from D to E,
represents that portion of the tooth which extends above the
gums, and the lower parts are buried beneath the gums in the
jawbone. K K represent the tusks or hook teeth, commonly
called bridle teeth, just about to cut through the gums, and

AGE OF THE HORSE. 69

as there is no certain time to be relied upon for these teeth to
be cut through, we will say nothing about them, as this would
mislead the reader.

The six teeth are marked NN, MM and CC. The three on
the left show the shape of the teeth on the crown, as they come
through the gum, while the three oa the right show some little
wear by coming in contact with the upper jaw.

No. 17.

Full-size front and side view of nippers as they appeal' when pulled out
of jaw.

Cut 17 is the full-size, front and side view, of the tooth called
nipper. A represents the front view, and B shows the side view
of the same tooth.

By noticing the front view, marked A, of the nipper-tooth, in
Cut No. 17, you will see that at the crown or top it is quite wide,

70 AGE OF THE HORSE.

and gradually tapers to the root, where it is quite pointed, and
the black mark, beginning at the crown and running down near
the whole length of the tooth, represents the groove we dwelt
upon before.

The representation in Cut 17, marked B, gives you a side view
of the same tooth, and shows the top or crown to be much nar-
rower on the side than on the front, and instead of gradually
tapering down to a sharp point, it bulges out or becomes thicker
near the middle than at either end. By this it will be seen that
as the tooth wears away, by coming in contact with the upper
jaw, the crown becomes narrower, as it wears down to the root,
and thicker from the outside to the inside of the tooth.

No. IS

Shows nipper as it appears at three, six, twelve, eighteen, and twenty-four
years.

Cut 18 shows the shape of the crown of the nipper tooth at
different ages. The upper section of this tooth shows a three-
year-old tooth.

The width is from figure one to figure two, while the thickness

AGE OF THE HORSE.

71

is shown from figure three to figure four. The second section
of this tooth shows a six-year-old, and the third section shows a
twelve-year-old tooth. The fourth shows eighteen years old,
while the fifth, and lower section, shows twenty-four years.

If the reader will carefully examine this illustration he will
notice that the upper section from one to two is twice as wide as
it is thick, while the lower section, showing the same tooth at
twenty-four years, will discover that it is twice as thick as it is
wide.

The width is from one to two, and the thickness from three to
four.

We will next call your attention to cut 19.

No. 19.
Life-size inside view of five-year-old.

This cut will represent a life-size, inside view, of the lower jaw
of a five-year-old, showing all the cups or marks in the teeth as
they would appear in the five-year-old mouth. N N the nippers,
M M the middle, C C the corner teeth.

72 AGE OF THE HORSE.

Cut No. 20 shows a life-size outside view of the lower jaw of a
colt five years old.

No. 20.
Life-size outside view of a five-year-old.

Cut 21 shows a life-size inside view of the lower jaw of a horse
twenty-four years old.

No. 21.
Life-size inside view of a twenty-foiir-year-old.

Cut 22 represents the outside view of the lower jaw of a horse
twenty-four years old.

These last six cuts, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 and 22 are not inserted

AGE OF THE HORSE.

73

to show any particular age, but to post the pupil more fully in
regard to the shape and form of the teeth at different ages,
showing the two extremes, the very young and the very old.

No. 22.
Life-size outside view of a twenty -four-year-old.

By closely observing the cuts above mentioned, more particu-
larly the last four, it will be seen that the five-year-old shows
very wide across the crown, while the twenty-four-year-old shows
very narrow across the crown, both the inside and outside views.
This is caused by what is called the alveolar process.

It will be more fully understood by the pupil to say, the teeth
in the young horse are long, while those in the old horse are
short, as shown in Cut No. 18.

Most people are under the impression that young horses have
short teeth, and that old horses have long ones. It is just the
reverse. The old horses have the short teeth and the young ones
the long, as will be seen in Cut No. 17. A shows the front and B
the side view of a full size tooth of a young horse, which averages
in length from 2£ to 3 inches.

While Cut No. 18, lower section, represents the horse when he
is very old — three-fourths to one inch long.

74

AGE OF THE HORSE.

The reason ' people call the old horse's teeth long is because
they show further out from the gums, while the young horse's
teeth are buried in the jaw-bone and covered by the gums. For
this reason the young horse's teeth appear short, while the old
horse's teeth look longer because they project farther out from
the gums.

There are some horses that have what are called parrot-mouths,
where the upper jaw teeth extend over and beyond the lower jaw
teeth. Should this be the case, they will not wear off short, but
the teeth of a horse eight or nine years old will show as long as
a horse of twelve or fifteen will, where the teeth come together
and wear off properly on the crowns.

AGE OF THE HORSE.

75

Page 74 shows the two inside views of the lower jaw together,
so that the pupil can see the contrast between the old and young
mouth.

We will also put the two outside views together on this page,
so the pupil can see the width and shape of the teeth and gums.
By noticing closely, it will be seen that the gums in the young
mouth are nearly straight across, while the old mouth shows the
gums extending up between the teeth.

The upper view on page 74 shows twenty-four years old ; the
lower view, only five. On page 75 the upper view shows five, and
the lower one twenty-four years.

76 AGE OF THE HORSE.

We will next proceed to explain as well as possible to the pupil
what is meant by the alveolar process.

In the human as well as in the horse, the teeth are constantly
and slowly, as nature directs, moving up out of the sockets, and
as the teeth in the horse are smaller at the roots than at the
crown (as shown in cut No. 17), it will be understood, as they
move out of the sockets, that the further out they get the nar-
rower the mouth will show.

The jaw-bone naturally contracts to fill up the space left by the
teeth coming out of their sockets, and as this is a gradual process
from the time the horse is fully developed, the older he gets the
narrower the jaw will show. Hence, the old horse's jaw will be
much narrower than the young one, as will be readily shown by
the cuts on pages 74 and 75.

Another marked difference will be perceptible in the young
horse's mouth and teeth, which is, that the shape of the crown of
the teeth will be that of a half-circle, while in the old horse they
will show almost straight across the crown, showing the shape
the aveolar process leaves the old mouth in.

It will also be noticed that the teeth in the young horse,
marked N, M and C, nippers, middle and corner, are entirely of
a different shape on the crown, while the nippers of the young
horse are much wider than they are thick, the old horse's nippers
shows much thicker than they are wide. (See pages 74 and 75.)

We next call the attention of the reader to cut No. 23, which
represents the inside view of the lower jaw of an old horse, in
which the teeth have been sawed off, and not naturally worn off.

Cut No. 24 represents the outside view of the same jaw illus-
trated in cut 23.

Many unprincipled men have a rascally trick of sawing off the

AGE OF THE HORSE.

77

horse's teeth and cutting holes in the crown, and then putting a
red-hot iron in the holes to make black marks or false cups.

No. 23.

This is called " Bishopping," because the man who first prac-
tised this fraud was named Bishop. When this operation is per-
formed on a horse that is getting along in years, it might deceive
those that are not familiar with the formation and structure of
the teeth ; but, after a close investigation of the young and old
mouth, as shown by cuts 19 and 20, it will be impossible to deceive
the pupil.

\

No. 24.

These simple but practical rules can become understood tho
roughly by examining the mouths of different-aged horses.

I would advise the pupil to first examine the mouths of horses
whose ages are well known to him, and compare with these in-

78 AGE OF THE HORSE.

structions ; tlieu he might examine the mouths of different
horses that he knows nothing about ; and if these rules will hold
good in describing the marks in the mouth that is well understood
by the pupil, they will hold good in determining the ages of
horses he knows nothing about.

The way that the author found out how to tell an old horse's
age was by examining every horse he could find, if the horse's
age was positively known by the owner. He then observed that
different marks as described in this lesson, and now feels satisfied
that by these rules the old horse's age — say up to twenty-one
— will be known as well as the horse from one to ten. We are so
positive that we will invite any scientific horseman or others to
make the test.

In. regard to the different ages of horses we will give a few
words of advice. Most people, in buying horses, prefer to get a
young horse — from four to five years old. If a gentleman intends
purchasing a horse for light work, intending to have him under
his own care, it would perhaps be well to buy. such a horse, be-
cause the young horse would be likely to improve in value, if
properly cared for, and the work light and easy ; but if he were
going to purchase a horse to do hard, steady work, it would be
better to get one seven or eight years old.

Many persons, inexperienced in handling and working horses,
imagine that when the horse is nine or ten years old, he is rather
an old animal, but experience has taught me, if he has not been
crippled and injured, by working him when too young, that he
is just in his prime.

If the horse is to be used for staging, street-cars, omnibuses,
hacks, or any kind of constant or hard work, a sound ten-year-old
horse is the right horse in the right place.

In travelling through Wisconsin, last year, at a small town
called Sharon, where I formed a class, a gentleman named Lowell
had a very fine stallion, that was twenty-one years old, shed

AGE OF THE HORSE. 79

by old Lexington, the celebrated running horse. He hitched
him up to a " buck-board/' and the horse got to kicking. Some
of my scholars, knowing of this, got Mr. Lowell to bring him to
Sharon, to hare him handled before the class, and when he led
the horse into town he looked like a young colt, and was one of
those high-strung, well-bred, fully developed, symmetrical horses
that would furnish a fine subject for a picture to adorn any art
gallery.

After handling this horse a few minutes, I hitched him in a
buggy and drove him up and down the streets. I liked the horse
so well that I persuaded Mr. Lowell to let me take him and drive
him through the country. I drove him two or three months, and
gave him some very long drives, which appeared beneficial to' him
rather than otherwise, and would have severely tested the endur-
ance of many much younger horses.

Flora Temple, when nineteen years old, made her fastest time
—2:19£— which' was the fastest mile ever trotted by any horse,
mare or gelding, young or old, up to the year 1856.

Goldsmith Maid, at the age of nineteen, also made her best time
—2:14— which was considered wonderful, as she beat all former
records. In fact, the writer has seen horses working every day
on the streets, and performing the work of ordinary horses, at
the advanced age of thirty-three years. So, in buying a horse, be
careful in discarding him solely on account of his age.

EEFEREXCES TO OPPOSITE CUT.

1. Muzzle.

2. Nostril.

3. Forehead.

4. Jaw.

5. Poll.

6. 6. Crest.

7. Thropple or windpipe.

F0R1-QUARTER.

8. 8. Shoulder-blade.

9. Point of the shoulder.

10. Bosom or breast.

11. 11. True-arm.

12. Elbow.

13. Fore-arm (arm).

14. Knee.

15. Cannon-bone.

16. Back sinew.

17. Fetlock or pastern -joint.

18. Coronet.

19. Hoof or foot.

20. Heel.

BODY OR MIDDLEPIECE.

21. Withers.

22. Back.

23. 23. Ribs (forming together the barrel or chest).

24. 24. The circumference of the chest at this point,

called the girth.

25. The loins.

26. The croup.

27. The hip.

28. The flank.

29. The sheath.

30. The root of the dock or tail.

THE HIND-QUARTER.

31. The hip-joint, round, or whirl-bone.

32. The stifle-joint.

33. 33. Lower thigh or gaskin.

34. The quarters.

35. The hock.

36. The point of the hock.

37. The ball.

38. The canuon-bone.

39. The bnck sinew.

40. Pastern or fetlock-joint.

41. Coronet.

42. Foot or hoof.

43. Heel.

DISEASES OE THE HORSE AND
THEIR TREATMENT.

The treatment and remedies given in this book, I have secured
at great loss of time and money. I have been treating my own
horses for nearly twenty years, and have used the remedies in
this book with great success.

Many of the remedies included are worth much more than the
cost of five of these books.

My principal desire in the production of this book is to benefit
my patrons. Hence the reader may feel assured that no remedy
will be placed in it, not known by me to be valuable and reliable.

ft is an old maxim that reads : " An ounce of prevention is
worth a pound of cure," and I would urge the necessity of at
least ordinary care in preventing colds and sickness by guarding
against exposure or mercilessly driving until the horse is in a
high state of perspiration ; then leaving him where some cold,
bleak wind will strike him, perhaps without even putting a
blanket or covering over him.

If covered at all, the blanket may be thrown on carelessly, and
the driver or groom goes off to enjoy himself with his friends,
taking his toddy, or toasting his shins, while the poor animal
stands shivering in the street.

The effect of such treatment will not then have time to fully
develop itself, but will be seen afterwards, when perhaps it
is too late.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 83

This is the cause of Acute Laminitis (founder) and of Pleuro-
Penumonia (Pleurisy.) The principal points in securing the health
of a horse, are exercise, pure air, and good feeding.

In the first place irregularity in exercising the horse will cer-
tainly produce diseases, and in the second place, the stable should
be ventilated so that it will be neither too hot nor too cold. If
this is not looked to, the animal will show the effects in a short
time, by coughing or having a slight irritation of the mucous
membrane of the throat.

A horse will take cold very easily by going out of a hot stable
into the cold air, or from the cold air into a hot stable.

It is the sudden atmospheric change that produces the change
on the mucous coat of the larynx and throat.

The clothing or covering of the horse in a stable should be
neither too warm nor too cold.

A great deal depends on the care and attention that is paid to
the horse in this respect. Whenever the laws of nature are
violated, and the horse is caged or housed up by man, the same
care and attention should be given him that we would give our-
selves, when apprehending a return of previously endured hard-
ships occasioned by exposure and neglect.

Another point that should always be observed in keeping a
horse in condition and good health, is regular feeding and paying
strict attention to him immediately after a long or hard drive,
especially if he has been exposed to wet and cold weather.

Anticipate and look for a chill. Blanket him warmly and also
give him a little fever medicine and a bran mash. By these timely
precautions a severe attack of pneumonia may be averted.

Lung Fever.

Lung fever is an epidemic prevalent throughout the United
States and Canada, and is considered contagious and generally

84 DISEASE OF THE HORSE.

proves fatal. It, however, has its causes of production in all
countries, some of which I will describe first. Sudden changes
from heat to cold ; after severe cold weather it turns suddenly
warm, the atmosphere is damp, the walls of stables are damp, the
miasm and stench which arise from close stables produce a poison-
ous effluvia, which is inhaled by the horse, and produces disease.
Again, changing horses from warm, comfortable stables to cold,
damp ones often produces it. Driving your horse hard, getting

First stages of Lung- Fever.

him warm, and then leaving him in a current of cold air, or
giving him a heavy draught of cold water when warm, and allow-
ing him to stand afterwards to chill, taking him out when he feels
well, in the rain, or turning him out in a paddock when he feels
fresh, allowing him to take severe and quick exercise under excit-
ing circumstances ; causing undue excitement, affecting the lungs
by rapid respiration. It is frequently caused by sudden fright,
holding and compelling horses to remain in close proximity
with whatever they think will harm them, producing heat and
excitement ; overdriving and exhaustion without sufficient care
after the drive ; too hard driving on a full stomach ; inju-
ries received on the head, back or limbs ; crowding too many
horses in small stables without sufficient ventilation ; keeping
one diseased horse in a herd or stable with other horses.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. $5

It is found to prevail mostly i a crowded cities; seldom attacks
horses on the farm, where they have plenty of clean water and
pure air j the damper the stable, the more liable is the horse to
disease. It frequently attacks other parts of the horse, as well
as the lungs.

Symptoms.

The horse breaks out in a cold, clammy sweat, accompanied
with a severe chill. The ears, legs and head become deathly cold ;
he hangs his head down, or rests it on the manger ; nibbles a
little at his hay, refusing to eat any quantity ; stands perfectly
still, never moving unless compelled to ; he is exceedingly stiff
and weak ; has a quick weak pulse, hot mouth, shivering, dullness,
watery eyes, accompanied by watery discharge from the nostrils,
which soon becomes purulent ; sore throat, difficulty of swallow-
ing ; loss of appetite, bowels costive ; invariably dying upon his
feet. In some cases the chest fills with water ; the heart and its

Second stage of Lung Fever.

coverings are severely involved ; the eyelids and the head are
distended with fluids. It occurs generally in spring and fall, but
may occur at any season of the year. It has been often mistaken
for ordinary founder. Horses generally live from eight to fifteen
-days ; but if they are not relieved during the first three or four

86 DISEASES OE THE HORSE.

days, their case is hopeless. Running, trotting, livery, and fancy
horses are the most liable to take lung fever. The celebrated
Canadian trotting horse, St. Lawrence, died at Kalamazoo,
Michigan, in 1860, from lung fever, produced by cooling off too
suddenly after his race. The American trotting-horse, George
M. Patchin, died from the same cause j Royal George died at
Buffalo, in 1867, from the same cause ; the maid of Orleans died
from the same cause, after running her four-mile race. Livery
horses are subject to it, because they are so often over-heated, and
left standing in the cold by careless drivers.

Fancy horses that are kept in warm stables with two or three
heavy blankets on, when brought in contact with the air, chill
very soon, unless kept in rapid motion. No horse should be
blanketed in the stable generally. If kept in a good stable
without clothing, and clothed whenever he is obliged to stand in
the air, it would be better. Never expose your horse to sudden
changes ; they affect his general health and spirits. Horses that
are regularly fed and worked, seldom if ever need any medicine.

All horses should have plenty of exercise in the open air..
Colts should never be housed up or confined ; nature intended
they should have a certain amount of exercise to develop their
muscles and lungs, to keep them in condition. This is why wild
horses excel tame ones ; they commence to run from the time
they are foaled, so that by the time they are four years old, they
are well develojDed.

Treatment in Lung Fever :

Tincture of aconite 1 oz.

Tincture of veratrium i oz.

Aqua 4 oz .

Dose from fifteen to twenty-five dicjs en the tongue every
thirty or forty minutes.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. S7

The dose can be increased or decreased according to the se-
verity of the case. Blister his sides just behind his forelegs ;
bathe his throat with some strong liniment, and give him plenty
of pure air ; do not stand him in the draught ; rub his legs well
with some stimulating liniment,, remembering that good care is
one-half the battle.

Spasmodic Colic.

One of the most dangerous and common diseases to which the
horse is subject, is the Colic, both spasmodic and flatulent. Spas-
modic Colic, if not relieved, will, in severe cases, cause inflam-
mation of the bowels and speedy death.

Flatulent Colic, while exhibiting the general symptoms, shows
marked enlargement of the body, from generation of gas, which,
when not checked and neutralized, results fatally by rupturing
the diaphragm, causing death.

The causes of colic are drinking cold water when in a heated
condition, costiveness, unwholesome food, and the application of
cold water to the body, &c.

Premonitory symptoms are sudden. The animal paws violently,
showing evidences of great distress, shifting his position con-
stantly, and manifesting a desire to lie down.

In a few minutes these symptoms disappear and the horse is
easy.

He may also act as if he desired to make water, which he is
unable to do, there being a spasmodic contraction of the urethra.
Hence the desire to give diuretic medicine. Straining in this
way is usually prompted by a desire to relieve the muscles of the
belly. No diuretic remedy should be given the horse, as he
cannot pass the urine until the attack of colic ceases, or it is
taken from him with a catheter.

88 DISEASES OF THE HORSE.

But the same uneasiness soon returns, increasing in severity
until the animal cannot remain on his feet; the pulse is full,
scarcely altered from its normal condition.

A cold sweat breaks out over the body ; the temperature of the
leers and ears natural.

First stage of Spasmodic Colic.

As the disease advances the symptoms become more severe,, the
animal throwing himself down with force and looks anxiously at
the sides, snapping with his teeth at his sides, looking anxiously
at his belly, and striking upward with the hind feet, showing
almost the same symptoms as in inflammation of the bowels.

To better point out the peculiarities or characteristics of each
trouble, I will say :

Colic is sudden in its attacks. Legs and ears of natural tem-
perature. Eubbing the belly gives relief. Relief obtained from
motion. Pulse, in the early stage of the disease, not much
quickened or altered in its character. Intervals of rest. Strength
hardly affected.

Inflammation of the bowels : Gradual in its approach, with
previous indications of fever. Pulse, much quickened, small,
often scarcely to be felt. Legs and ears cold. Motion increases
pain.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 89

Rapid and Great Weakness. Constant Pain.— This disease being
wholly of a spasmodic nature, it must be counteracted by anti-
spasmodic treatment; and laudanum being the most powerful
and reliable anti-spasmodic, it is here indicated.

Treatment.— Give in a pint of raw linseed oil, from two to three
ounces of laudanum.

If not better in an hour give two ounces each of oil and
laudanum.

The following remedy is considered one of the best in use for
the cure of either form of colic :

Colic Remedy.

Opium £ft>.

Sulph. ether 1 pint.

Aromatic Spirits Ammonia 1 pint.

Sweet Spirits Nitre 2 pints.

Asafcetida (pure) £ ft.

Camphor i ft.

Bottle and let it stand fourteen days, with frequent shaking,
and it will be fit for use.

Dose— One ounce, more or less, according to severity of the
case, once in from thirty minutes to an hour. Give in a little
water.

To enable its immediate use, substitute same proportion of
tincture for the gum.

Flatulent Colic.

Same symptoms as spasmodic colic, except that the accumula-
tion of gas in the stomach and intestines is such as to cause
the belly to swell.

This disease often proves fatal in two or three hours.

Generally it attacks the horse very suddenly, often occurring
while the animal is at work, particularly during warm, or change-

90 DISEASES OF THE HORSE.

able weather, from cold to heat. Indigestion is a general cause,
producing gas in the stomach and bowels.

The two locations and causes for this disease are — the stomach,
colon and coecum.

When in the stomach it will be known by eructations or belch-
ing of gas through the esophagus or gullet.

If from the coecum or colon, the horse is violently swollen
along the belly and sides.

The pulse rarely is disturbed until the disease advances, when
it will become quickened, running to its height quickly and
receding as rapidly if fatal.

First stage of Flatulent Colic.

If to terminate fatally it will become weaker and slower until
it is almost imperceptible.

Should the animal suddenly fall down during great pressure of
gas against the walls of the stomach, there is danger of rupturing
the diaphragm, causing almost instant death from suffocation.

Treatment — Keep up evaporation of the body as much as
possible by sweating with blankets. A hot bath would be still
better. If you have on hand the remedy recommended for spas-
modic colic, give at once as directed. Should it not be available,
give a drench of the following :

Sulph. ether 2 oz.

Peppermint 2 oz.

Laudanum 1 oz.

Soft Water 1 pint.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 91

If the horse is not too sick to get up during the intervals of
administering the mixture,, keep him in motion. Eepeat the dose
in half or three-quarters of an hour if not improved.

There is great danger of the diaphragm being ruptured, through
the distention of the intestines, in this disease.

To keep the animal on his feet in the stall, and prevent those
violent falls and rolling about, and to avoid irritation or action on
the bowels, it would be advisable to walk the horse as slowly as

Last stage of Colic.

possible', led by the head to prevent falling or rolling, until such
time as the treatment has had the desired effect.

Catarrh or Cold.

Colds, if neglected, may lead to serious consequences, and are
of common occurrence. By a little rest and nursing, in time the
system will soon resume its normal condition.

Usually, the symptoms are a slight mere use of the pulse, followed
by a slight discharge from the nose; loss of appetite; hair roughed;
and a cough, which sometimes is quite severe. Give aconite as for a
fever, and blanket warmly. Give bran mashes, etc. In serious
cases, it may run into inflammation of the air passages, as bronchitis
or laryngitis. Give fever medicine, and alternate with belladonna.
Aim to keep up the strength. Put on a bag made of coarse, loose
cloth, into which put some hot bran, on which throw an ounce or too
of turpentine. Hang the sack on the horse's head, being careful to
leave an opening to allow some "of the steam to escape, so it will
not scald his nose. A repetition of this treatment a few times will

92 DISEASE OF THE HOESE.

start the nose running freely. Complete this treatment with judi-
cious1 rest and care.

To relieve obstinate inflammation of the throat and air-passages,
apply a good liniment to the throat and chest. This will stimulate
the surface.

Strangles, or Distemper.

This form of sore throat has for its design the throwing off of
some poisonous matter from the system. You should keep up the
strength of the animal, and hasten suppuration. The horse's neck
becomes sore and stiff, and there is an enlargement which is hard
at first; the nose discharges matter. The horse generally becomes

Strangles, or Distemper.

worse, and, when very bad, causes suffocation ; he is able to eat very
little, and he loses strength rapidly. A poultice of warm vinegar and
bran, freely used and changed as often as it becomes dry, will do
much good if applied until the enlargement becomes soft, and can be
opened.

Another treatment is to take spirits of camphor, one part ; spirits
of turpentine, two parts; laudanum, one part. Apply to the
neck with a brush three or four times a day until soreness is pro-
duced. After each application, put three or four thick pieces of
flannel over the parts, binding them on with a bandage. When
the tumor comes to a bead or point, open it to allow the

DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 93

matter to escape thoroughly. In case the swelling is very deep,
and causes serious soreness and swelling of the throat, nurse the
horse carefully by feeding with warm gruel, give warm drink,
tempt his appetite with grass, &c. Rubbing the enlargement
with fly blister, to bring it to a head, is often resorted to.
No physic should be given.

Poll-Evil and Fistula of the Withers.

The treatment of these difficulties is the same for one as for the
other — their characters being the same.

Poll-Evil is oftentimes caused by the poll striking a beam
or against the floor. Sometimes it may be the result of con-
stitutional predisposition.

When the enlargement and inflammation are first noticed, you
may may be able to dispose of it by giving a dose of physic and
applying cooling applications to the part.

If the inflammation has not become reduced, clip the hair
from the part and rub on some blistering ointment.

Should the swelling enlarge, open and allow the pus to escape.

In the treatment of all ulcers keep one point in mind, which
is, to make an opening at the bottom if you can, to allow the
matter to run out, as matter will always burrow toward the
bottom.

This is done by running a seaton through, bringing it out
just below the bottom of the wound.

Wash out the sore clean. It should be afterwards bathed with
any of the healing preparations for ulcers given in another
page.

If pipes are formed requiring caustic medicine, use either chloride
of zinc, corrosive sublimate, or any strong escorotic to destroy this
growth, after which treat as before.

94 DISEASES OP HOEBE.

These difficulties require proper dressing daily.

Fistula of the Withers should be treated in the same manner.

The principle of treating these difficulties is the same as that
for deep-seated ulcers.

Special directions for the treatment of them will be found under
the head of Ulcers, &c.

Sweeny.

All reliable practitioners have discarded Sweeny as a fictitious
disease. It is claimed that Sweeney is the effect of diseases of
the feet, such as ossification of the lateral cartilage, contraction,
corns, navicular diseases, etc., producing atrophy of the muscles of
the shoulder, and their treatment would be to remove the cause,
and the effect would disappear.

To follow a local treatment of Sweeney, or filling-up of the
shoulder, you do so by the application of most any stimulating
treatment.

The simplest and best, never-failing remedy is the application of
soft-soap.

Horsemen consider it invaluable. Add a little salt to soft-soap,
and rub on the parts thoroughly four or five times during the
week.

Four or five applications will fill up the depression of a bad case.

The regular treatment consists of seatoning and blistering, but the
above will answer for local treatment.

Spavins — two hinds.

There are two kinds of Spavin, jack and occult or consolidated
oint.

The first is situated at the upper portion of the metatarsal bone at
its juncture with cuboid bones.

Spavins of both kinds have their origin from the same causes —

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 95

inflammation of the cartilage of the joint in the first instance
and extending to ulceration of the bone, consequently bony matter
is thrown out, uniting more or less of the hock and excess of matter
and ulceration of the bones from the enlargement.

The causes of Spavin, though numerous, are traceable principally
to sprains, blows and hard work, or any cause exciting inflammation
of this part.

Bone Spavin.
At the beginning the symptoms are treacherous.

Horses are often treated for hip lameness before any enlargement
makes its appearance.

The horse, while laboring under acute inflammation of the hock
joint, is at first very lame.

Generally, the tumor makes its appearance from the fifth to the
eighth week. At times, the lameness is gradual — hardly perceptible
at first — becoming worse until there is a decided lameness at starting,
which will in a short time wear off as the horse becomes warmed
up.

There are various remedies and applications. Some men pretend
to remove spavins. The skillful practitioner knows better. It will

96 DISEASES OF THE HOESE.

be seen that if such people can remove the external tumor, they
cannot separate the bones that are united, and horses may be spa-
vined without any visible enlargement.

Blood Spavin.

Natural Action. Spavined Leg.

Take cantharides 2 oz., mercurial ointment 4 oz., tincture of iodine
3 oz., turpentine 4 oz., corrosive sublimate 3 drams ; mix well with
lib lard. After well blistered, dress with calomel salve.

Blood Spavin.

This disease, when once well seated, is incurable; but if taken in
its acute state, bandaging tight and kept wet with cold water is the
best treatment.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 97

Heaves

Are produced by driving the horse against a heavy current of air,
and inhaling an excess of air; thus overcharging the lungs, they
become ruptured, and when once ruptured, can never be cured The
food should be well wet, so that he will inhale no dust while eating,
as it is very injurious. The dust of a threshing machine for one'
day is worse than to feed with clover-hay for a month.

Glanders.
Glanders is an affection of the glands of the head, and may be
known by a flow of white matter from one or both nostrils, accom-
panied by an offensive smell. It may be told from common dis-
temper, as the secretions from distemper will float on water, while
that from glanders will sink immediately. It cannot be cure'd, but
may be relieved.

Lockjaw, or Tetanus,
Is produced from some injury received by the nervous system, injury
to the spinal column, a rap on the top of the head, a nail driven into
the quick by the smith, or one picked up on the road.

Symptoms.

He stretches himself at full length, hangs his head down, is stiff
all over, his jaws immovably fixed.

Treatment—Open his bowels with a drench of ten drams of aloes,
three drams calomel, in one pint of linseed oil. Keep him in a com-
fortable box, feed him on whatever he can eat— bran mashes, boiled
oats, or, if he is very bad, give him a sloppy drink of oat-meal, rye-
meal, or linseed-meal, whichever he can take.

Bots.
Bots are one of the natural appendages of the stomach of a horse
—as much so as his lungs, arteries, nerves, or any other essential part
of his vital organism. They never injure the horse.

They have been placed in the stomach of all horses by nature, for
a specific purpose, and no horse can live without them in the stomach
a

98 DISEASES OF THE HORSE.

They are in the stomach of all horses at the time of foaling, and
number about the same — or no more or less — at any age of the horse.
They never lose their hold of the lining of the stomach under any
circumstances. The heart was given to propel the blood ; the lungs
to breathe j the eye, to see ; the ear, to hear ; and the bots, to aid
digestion. The life and health of the horse is dependent upon the
bots. When the horse is sick the bots are sick ; any description of
food good for the horse is good for the bots. They never injure a
horse except when they become diseased — the same as any other vital
part. If your horse is over-heated or exhausted from work, and is
attacked with colic or any description of inflammation, the bots suffer
equally with the horse ; anything given the horse that will kill the
bots, is liable to kill the horse also. "When you keep your horse in
good condition, well and regularly fed, there is no danger. Bots
have been used heretofore to cover up the ignorance of the farrier.
If your horse dies of inflammation of the brain they would say he
died of bots ; if he dies of lung fever the same thing is said ; if he
dies of colic or anything else, it is always attributed to the bots —
when, in fact, no horse ever died directly from their effects.

The quid has been given to the sheep and cow, so that they may
belch up their food and ruminate or re-chew it, thereby preparing it
for the digestive organs, while the bots have been given to the horse
to perform the same work for him, without taxing him with the labor
of re-chewing ; besides, his owner might require some hard or fast
work of him, just at the time when he should be re-chewing his food.
The gad-fly or nit-bee has nothing to do with the production of the
bot, no more than the horse-fly, buffalo-gnat, or any other fly ; all
the harm they do is the tickling and buzzing sensation that they pro-
duce in the particularly ticklish portion of the horse that they visit ;
the wasp, hornet, and other insects, torment horses, yet there are

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 99

no bots ever attributed to any of them ; you can punish a horse as
much with a fine straw or a piece of paper twisted to a point, by
tickling him under the throat, in the flank, or upon the legs, as much
as the gad-fly does, or by catching a fly and holding close to his
ear while it makes a buzzing noise, all of which he attempts to escape
from, as much as from the presence of the gad-fly. It is impossible
for him to lick or bite the nits from off his legs, belly or throat,
without pulling the hair off, and as no horse ever swallows any hair,
it is impossible for them to be carried into the stomach ; besides,
there are thousands of horses in warm climates, and in stables, that
never see any gad-flies, yet all horses have bots.

All that has been written in connection with the gad-flies produc-
ing bots, and all of the technical terms used to illustrate them and
their effects, have been to fill works upon the horse.

Bots, as a disease in horses, like that of the kmpas and many other
old notions, will soon be obsolete.

Lamp as.

Lampas is a fullness and inflammation of the front portion of the
roof of the mouth, near the teeth.

I here have to combat with an old-established opinion, that lam-
pas is a disease in horses ; but eighteen years' experience has taught
me that there is no such disease.

The gums of all young horses are swollen below the teeth, as
nature intended they should be, and all of the discomforts of the
horse attributed to lampas, is the effect of improper feed and bad
care. You never find a horse of five years old with lampers ; at this
age the gums recede above the teeth, and continue to do so as they
grow older.

The practice of burning colts for the lampas is a severe and savage
practice, destroying the roof of the mouth, and the power of retain-
ing the food until it can be well masticated.

The hard gristly bars in the roof of all colts' mouths, have been

100 DISEASES OE THE HOESE.

placed there by nature for specific purposes. 1st, it is quite insen-
sible to the touch, and with this hard bar he picks grass and grinds
his feed while his teeth are tender and being shed ; 2nd, a large artery
terminates in the roof of the mouth, and those bars hare been placed
there to protect it from rupture. To relieve him, give him plenty of
oats and bran well wet up ; give him plenty of carrots, turnips or
potatoes, plenty of nice clover hay, clean water, fresh air, a dry bed,
and you will never be troubled with lampas. You might as well
burn off one ear, or burn out one ere (then he w@uld have one ear to
hear with, and one eye to see with) ; but when you burn out his
mouth, he has nothing to suppl it with, and you disable and per-
petually torture him.

To Strengthen the Tendons After Hard Driving, and Reduce the
Swelling of the Legs.

Camphor Gum | oz.

Grum Myrrh 1 oz.

Oil of Spike 1 oz.

Alcohol 1 pt.

Organum 1 oz.

Beef's Gall 1 ordinary size.

Wash and rub dry, then apply the liniment ; after winch rub dry j
again apply the liniment to the limb and bandage moderately tight.

This remedy I consider the best ever used for the purpose recom-
mended.

Grease Reels.

This is a greasy, white, offensive discharge from the heels of the
horse. The skin becomes tender, hot and swollen. The acrid charac-
ter of the discharge causes portion* of the skin to slough away,
leaving an ugly sore.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 101

Treatment— with the following ball open the bowels :—

Pulverised Gentian Boot 2 drams.

Barbadoes Aloes 1 oz>

Pulverised Ginger 1 dram.

Water sufficient to make the ball.

Poultice and wash the parts well for two or three days with the
following :— Flaxseed meal, mixed with a solution of 2 drams sul-
phate of zinc, to a pint of water, which— keep clean— bathe often
with a solution of chloride of lime or of zinc. Glycerine can also be
used.

Scratches — Cure.

Glycerine j. oz

Tincture Arnica 4, oz_

In several cases, where heels are cracked, add :

Tincture of Myrrh 2 oz.

Iodine 1 oz.

Gunpowder (powdered fine) i oz.

Put in bottle and shake well.

Apply two or three times a day. First, give the horse a few bran
mashes.

Quitter.

This is a formation of pus between the hoof and the soft structure
within. A sore at the coronet, or upper part of the foot, which at
first is a hard, smooth tumor, soon becomes soft and breaks, dis-
charging quantities of pus.

Treatment.— Poultice the foot for several clays with flaxseed meal
As soon as the hoof becomes soft, cut away the loose portions,
but no more, and inject with a syringe the following once a
day :—

Nitrate of silver, 2 drams in a pint of water ; or
Chloride of zinc, 2 drams dissolved in a pint of water ; or
Sulphate of zinc, 1| drams in a pint of water.
Glycerine is sometimes used advantageously.

102 DISEASES OF THE HOESE.

Clean the foot well with castile soap and water before vising the
wash.

Mange.

Place your horse in the sun and scrub him thoroughly with
castile soap and water ; then wash him well with gas water, putting
in the water 2 drams of white hellebore to the gallon. Then change-
him from his old stable to another one. One washing generally
cures permanently.

Thoroughly scrub the harness and put it away for six or eight
weeks, as a necessary precaution against the disease.

Mange Treatment No. 2.

Linseed Oil 6 oz.

Oil Turpentine 4 oz.

Oil Tar 4 oz.

Mix.

Fatal Disease of the Foot.

The report of the Statistician of the Department of Agriculture,
in the Commissioner's report of 1869, states that a number of horses
hare died of a peculiar disease of the foot, and says that diagnosis
shows a separation of the ligaments of the coffin-joint and the foot.

It reads : " The foot turns up, causing the animal to walk on the-
ankle. The flexor-tendons are literally severed from the laminae, and
the foot will drop off by simply cutting through the skin with a
knife. None have ever been cured and no one appears to know
the cause of the difficulty.

No cases so extreme as those described by the Statistician have
come to our personal knowledge, but we have little doubt that
it will prove on investigation, which we are making, that the cause of
the terrible malady is in the use of shoes of improper con-
struction, neglect of the form of the foot, a proper form of
which is so essential to health, and the too liberal use of
cold water on the feet and legs, when the animal was in a
heated condition, or too much dampness of the stable or pastures in
which the animals were kept, or, perhaps, all combined.

DISEASES OF TIIE HOESE. 103

Nasal Gleet.

The result of neglected catarrh is a chronic discharge, from one or
both nostrils, of a whitish, muco-purulent matter.

The animal looks, feeds and works well, though he has this dis-
charge, which is caused by weakness in the secretory vessels of the
lining membrane of the nose.

A treatment on the tonic principle has been successfully used in
this disorder. Purging and bleeding are decidedly hurtful.

Give one of the following powders night and morning :

Carbonate of Iron 1 oz.

Gentian, pulverised 1 oz.

Quassia, „ 1 oz.

Divide into four powders.

Or—

Sequi-chloride of iron 2 oz.

Cinnamon 1 oz.

Divide into four powders.

Or—

JSux Vomica, pulverised \ oz.

Linseed Meal 2 oz.

Divide into eight powders.

Or—

Muriate of Barytes \ oz.

Linseed Meal 1 oz.

Divide into eight powders. The best known. One should be
given night and morning.

Cure of Farcy.

Black Antimony 1 oz.

Saltpetre § lb.

Sulphur i lb.

If acute : Dose — One tablespoonful twice a day. If sub-acute,
once or twice a week.

104 DISEASES OF THE HOESE.

I give for this formidable disease :

Three drams powdered sulphate of copper, given every night in
the food until the horse refuses to eat.

Repeat in a few days, but if the case is bad, give the medicine
in water as a drench, for ten days, if he will not take it in
his food.

Ringbone.

Many have supposed and asserted that this unsoundness in the
horse was inheritable. This is erroneous, as Ringbones are the
result of injuries, and often occur when the colt is but a few days
old, especially if it is compelled to follow the dam too far on a
hard road, before the feet have acquired sufficient strength and
solidity. Requiring the young foal to stand on a hard floor will
also produce them. They are produced in the horse, after he has
arrived at the age to be shod, by allowing the toes of the feet to
get too long ; from slipping on the ice ; shoeing without support
to the soles ; tramping on the feet by other horses, and various
other causes.

The Ringbone is a knot, or excrescence of ossified bone, usually
forming in the region of the articulation of the coffin and lower
pastern bones ; hence, they destroy, in a greater or less degree,
the action of that very important joint, and generally produce
permanent lameness.

Prevention by care and good management is more simple than
cure.

In purchasing a horse it will be prudent to examine all the
feet by the pressure of the finger on the skin all around the pastern,
from the lower margin of the hair to the height of three inches,
as Ringbone may sometimes be detected in this manner when
it is not visible, especially in the incipient state. We have seen
excrescences form on the bone near the foot from bruises, which
never produced lameness, though they are suspicious blemishes.

DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 105

Use a strong blister in its acute state ; if of old standing its cure
is difficult and doubtful.

Sprains in the Stifle.

Symptoms. — The liorse holds up his foot, moans when moved,
swells in stifle ; this is what is called stifling. There is no such
thing as this joint getting out of place. It gets sprained the same
as any other joint, and the patella may slip from its place, which
acts as a stay to the joint.

The tendons and ligaments become contracted, and lameness
follows. To relieve it, foment the joint well, stimulate it with some
strong linament or a slight blister.

The Nerve Operation.

A most barbarous operation called "nerving," or "neurotomy,"
was discovered in England, and was subsequently introduced into this
country ; nothing more disgraceful was ever imported into any
country claiming civilization.

It consisted in laying bare, taking up and cutting out from an inch
to one and a half inches of the metacarpal nerve, producing the
most excruciating pain. We illustrate the operation for the purpose
of exposing the cruelty of it, that no one will ever be guilty of such
wanton torture again.

By reference to the annexed plate (page 106), it will be sufficiently
explained.

We would suggest as a humane substitute for this operation, to
shoot the horse in the brain, and thus put an end to the suffering of
the pitiable animal as speedily as possible.

If a proper shoe is applied when the horse is first shod, and its
vise continued, all the organs of the foot will be maintained in their

106

DISEASES OF THE HOESE.

natural, respective and relative positions, and health, vigor and pro-
tracted usefulness will be secured, and there will be no necessity for
the brutal operation of neurotomy.

Eeferences— Tipper Section.— a, A prober passed under .the nerve; b, the
nerve ; c, the artery ; d, the back sinews, or flexor tendons.

Lower Section. — a, The nerve; b, the artery; c, the vein; d, a bran n- °f the
nerve between the vein and artery, not divided in the low operation.

Sow to Treat Contracted Feei.

By reference to the foot in the plate illustrating the process of
nerving, three grooves will be seen in the wall.

These grooves we make in the hard crust of the foot of patients
suffering from long standing, and severe contraction of the heels.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 107

The forward groove is placed directly over the points or wings
of the coffin-bone, where the pressure of the contracted wall
is most severe on the metacarpal nerve ; back of this we
cut two others parallel. These grooves should be cut from
one-eighth to one-fourth of an inch in depth and the same width,
according to the strength of the wall and the extent of the
contractions. We use a narrow gouge with which to cut the grooves,
and cut them before the shoe is set, by placing the bottom of the foot
on a block some twenty inches in height, and use a light mallet to
drive the gouge.

The operation of grooving, three on the outer and two on the inner
side of the foot, does not require more than five or ten minutes, and
may be done by any person of ordinary judgment, as it only requires-
a little care not to cut the groove so deep as to disturb the sensitive
portion of the foot, which will be indicated by blood showing in the
bottom of the groove, a slight show of which need not alarm the
operator, though it is preferable to take sufficient time and care in
performing the operation, to do it in the best possible manner, as

Shoe for Spreading the Heal.
it doubles the value of the horse the instant the operation is com-
pleted and our shoe for spreading the heel is properly set. The-
above cut is a drawing of this shoe, with five nail-holes in front
and none in the heels.

108 DISEASES OF THE HOESE.

This shoe is generally understood by the skilled blacksmith, and
requires great care in the fitting to make it perform its desired work,
which is to spread the heel slowly.

It will be seen by the cut that the portion of the shoe resting on
the heel is about one-eighth of an inch higher on the inside than
on the outside at the heel. In fact, the shoe is convexed from the
last nail to the heel. The cut represents the surface of the shoe next
to the hoof. The shoe should be a trifle wider at the heel than
the hoof. Care must be taken that the shoe does not rest on the sole
of the foot, but bear on the wall.

The best way to fit this shoe is to fit it cold as well as you can.

Then heat it and apply it to the hoof, and make an impression on the

foot with the hot shoe. This will enable the smith to get a better fit

than he could by fitting it cold. Aitec these grooves are made in

the hoof, and the above shoe properly fitted, it will at once double

the value of the horse.

Founder.

Founder is produced by the sudden transition from heat to cold*
For instance, by driving a horse until he is hot, then allowing him
to stand in a cold current of air, or giving him a heavy draught of
cold water while warm, thereby checking the circulation of the blood
to the extremities. It is frequently produced by driving fast on hard
roads, which produce inflammation of the delicate plates called la-
minae, by which the hoof is attached to the sensitive foot. It also
occurs from overloading the stomach by too much wheat, oats, barley
or peas, as h often seen when a horse gets loose during the night,
getting to the grain-bin ; the food, taken into the stomach in such
large quantities, and a portion of it dry, when wet by the stomach,
swells to such an extent that it prevents the blood from circulating,
and produces founder.

No horse will be foundered from giving him his ordinary amount

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 109

of feed at any time. Symptoms : Shivering and uneasiness ; he
refuses his food, moves about with the fore-feet, and seems restless ;
the mouth is hot, the pulse full and quickened ; soon the pain
in the feet becomes evident, he sometimes inclines to lie, points
with the muzzle to the feet, which are hot and tender; he
advances them in front, resting principally on the heels ; while

the hind-feet are well drawn under him ; on backing him, he-
backs with reluctance ; when forced back, he drags one foot after
the other, evincing considerable pain in so doing.

When moved forward he walks on his heels, his movements
being slow and difficult. The bowels are costive and fever runs
high.

Treatment. — Give the horse a good bedding of straw, in a large
well- ventilated stall, so as to encourage him to lie down, which,
by removing the weight from the inflamed parts, will relieve his
sufferings very much, and assist in hastening the cure. As soon
as his bed is fixed, give him twenty drops of the tincture of
aconite-root in a half-pint of cold water, poured into his mouth
with a bottle < having a strong neck, and repeat this dose every
four hours until six or eight doses have been given. Also apply

110

DISEASES OF THE HORSE.

a cloth wet in ice water to the feet, and keep wet with the
same for several hours until the severe pain has been relieved-
Wet the cloths often, and continue for two or three days, or
longer if necessary. Give plenty of cold water to drink. The
above treatment should be adopted as soon as possible after
the horse has been attacked with founder. Let the horse have
rest until he has fully recovered. Give grass or mashes for
two or three days, and then give a good and fair amount of
food.

This cut represents the seat of the ringbone. Fig. 1, the joint
between the pastern-bones ; Fig. 2, the joint between the lower
pastern (or small pastern) and the coffin-bone.

Splints.

This cut shows the location of the different splints on the fore
leg. Fig. 1— A splint near the knee; Fig. 2, a low splint j

DISEASES OF THE HOKSE.

Ill

Fig. 3, a small bony growth on the front of the leg, also called
splint.

Curb.

This is one of the many diseases of the hock-joint, and consists
of an enlargement or gradual bulging out at the posterior part of
the hock. [See above cut.]

Shoulder-joint Lameness.
This difficulty, being located in the joint, is much more serious
than the shoulder lameness just described, and it is more difficult
to effect a perfect cure of it.

Symptoms.— The animal drags the leg, with the toe on the ground,
nd throws the leg out in attempting to move it. It is with great
difficulty that he can raise his foot.

Treatment.— If the treatment is not put off too long, a cure

112 DISEASES OF THE HOESE.

may reasonably be expected, if the following directions are fol-
lowed. This disease, being similar to a spavin in the hock- joint,
should have similar treatment. If the part is very hot, reduce the
temperature by cold cloths ; or perhaps hot fomentations may work
well instead of the cold ; then apply a mild blister.

To Kill Lice on Horses.
Place your horse in a warm place and wash him thoroughly with
1 ounce of arsenic dissolved in a pail of water.

Hen and human lice thrive well on horses, and the above recipe
will always exterminate them.

Condition Potvders.

G-entian Root, pulverized 2 oz.

Anise Seed, pulverized ••• 1 oz.

Ginger 1 J*.

Fenugreek Seed 1 oz-

Seed of Sumach Berries, pulverized 1 oz.

Antimony 1 oz-

Mix with one pound of brown sugar. Nothing better for colds
and coughs, and to improve a horse's appetite.

Liniment of Extraordinary Merit for all Purposes.

Turpentine 1 Pint-

Apple Yinegar 1 pint.

Eggs ! Pint-

Chloroform 1 dram.

Carbolic Acid 1 dram.

Bottle tight and shake well before using.
Condition Potvder.

Ashes • 1 quart-
Flax-seed Meal 1 quart.

g!alt 2 tablespoonsf ul.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE. 113

Mustard 1 tablespoonful.

SalfcPetre 1 tablespoonful.

Cayenne Pepper l teaspoonful.

Dose — Two tablespoonsful once a day.

Diruetic Drops.

These drops will be found good for the stoppage of water, foul
water, or inflammation of the kidneys.

Gum Camphor, pulverized ± oz

Sweet Spirits of Nitre 4 oz

Treatment for Cuts or Wounds.

If the wound or cut is very bad, trim the hair off closely around
the edges, and wash carefully with soap and warm water.

The object next is to produce a granulating process.

In aU cases of wounds, cuts or ulcers, of any kind, you should
bear in mind the importance of washing the matter, or syringing
it from the affected part, with castile soap and warm water daily, and
a dependent opening must be made to allow the matter to escape from
the wound.

Matter, in every case, burrows or pockets, and the principle is the
same in every case.

Use caustics to cut out all fungus or diseased growths, and using
proportionately, more stimulating medicine for indolent ulcers than
for those in a fresh state.

The following ointment is unsurpassed for curing cuts and fresh
wounds on horses :

Beeswax x

Palm0iI- ZZZZ'.'.Vib*

^lA- 2 lbs.

G-um Turpentine , .,

Calamine i "

H llb-

114 DISEASES OE THE HORSE.

Simmer over a slow fire and stir well together until thoroughly
mixed. Wash the wound well with warm water and castile soap, and
apply the ointment once a day.

A Simple Sealing Preparation.

Water £ pint.

Tincture Myrrh 1 oz.

Tincture Aloes 2 oz.

Mix, and apply once a day.

Ointment for Healing Cuts, Galls, Etc.

Carbolic Acid 6 grains.

Lard 1 oz.

Oxide of Zinc, pulverized fine 4 drams.

Melt the lard and stir in the zinc.
Add the carbolic acid and mix thoroughly.

By applying this ointment once or twice a day to the injured part>
it will cause a healthy discharge from a foul ulcer.

Liniment for Open Wounds.

White Vitriol 2 oz.

Sulphate of Copper 1 oz.

Muriate of Soda (Salt) 2 oz.

Linseed Oil 2 oz.

Orleans Molasses 8 oz.

Boil the above ingredients in a pint of urine, for fifteen minutes.
When nearly cold, add 1 oz. oil of vitrol and 4 oz. spirits of tur-
pentine, and bottle for use.

To quickly set the wound to discharging, apply the liniment
to the wound with a quill, which will perform a cure in a few
days.

Valuable Wash for Fresh Wounds.

Copperas 1 teaspoonful.

Fine gunpowder 2 teaspoonsful.

White Vitriol 1 teaspoonful.

DISEASES OF THE HORSE.

115

Add 1 quart of boiling water. Let it stand until cool. For deep
wounds apply with a syringe.

Liniment for Foul Ulcers.

Nitric Acid x

Sulphate of Copper 2 oz

Water 8tol2oz.

Cooling Liniment for External Inflammation.

VineSar 2oz.

Spirits of Wine 3 Qz

Goulard Extract 1 oz

Water ...Hpinte!

Apply with a bandage.

For Inflamed Leg, Galled Back or Shoulders.
Spirits of Wine 2 oz

Yine£ar 4oz."

Sal Ammoniac i

1 oz.

Tincture Arnica 2 drams.

Water t ..

-2 pint.

Mix and bathe often and thoroughly.

Sticking Plaster for Cuts and Wounds.

Tallow 2oz.

Burgundy Pitch 4 oz

Spread on linen while hot. Cut in strips of proper length and
width. First, draw the cut together, warm the strips and apply
them. Cut the hair short where you apply the strips.

Wash for Reducing Inflamed Wounds.

Crotus Martes i

Sulphate of Zinc j

Sugar of Lead i Qz

Water .'.'.I pint.

Prevents bad smell in sores.

116 DISEASES OE THE HOESE.

To Prevent Swelling, Following a Bruise or Sprain

Tincture Arnica 2 oz.

Cold Water 1 qt.

Anodyne Stimulating Liniment.

Sulphuric Ether 1* oz.

Spirits of Turpentine ioz.

Spirits of Hartshorn 1| oz.

Sweet Oil I oz.

Oil of Cloves I oz.

Chloroform ■" 1 oz.

This liniment relieves pain and is unsurpassed for strains, lameness
and soreness. Put the liniment in a strong eight ounce bottle, cork
tight, and keep in the dark. When used rub in well.

Magic Liniment.

Organum 2 oz.

Hemlock 2 oz.

Oil of Spike 2 oz.

Sweet Oil 4 oz.

Wormwood 2 oz .

Spirits Ammonia 2 oz.

Spirits Turpentine 2 oz.

Gum Camphor 2 oz.

Proof Spirits (90 per cent.) 1 qt.

Bottle tight after mixing.

It is beneficial for bruises, sprains, etc., and a fine counter irritant
for inflammation and pleurisy.

For Neio Strains.

Carbonate Ammonia 2 oz.

Apple Vinegar ■£ gilh

Rub in well.

DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 117

Sealing Compound.

Calamine, pulverized 2 drams.

Gum Camphor 1 dram.

Prepared Chalk - 1 0z.

Burnt Alum \ oz.

Mix.

Sprinkle on the affected part, and in a few hours it will heal. Good
for collar or saddle galls, fresh wounds, and for any sore or lacerated
mouths, or any trouble requiring great astringent healing proper-
ties.

This wonderful powder is well known by having been extensively
advertised through this country.

Caustics.

Substances used to burn away tissues of the body by decomposition
of their elements are termed caustics, and are valuable in destroying
fungus growth and renew a healthy action.

Nitrate of Silver is excellent to lower granulation.

Corrosive sublimate in powder acts energetically.

Sulphate of copper is not so strong as nitrate of silver, but good.

Chloride of zinc is a powerful caustic. It may be used in sinuses ;
in solution, 7 drams in a pint of water.

Mild Caustics.

A wound or ulcer will not heal while there remains any foreign
substance in the shape of splinters, pieces of bone, hair, &c.

No matter what treatment you subject the wound to, it will not
heal so long as foreign substances remain in the cut.

Wash with, or inject, warm water and castile soap, after which
regular digestive ointment can be used. But if fungus growths

118 DISEASES OF THE HOESE.

cannot be removed with the knife, use a caustic — a little of which is
to be put on the part or in the sinews. Carrying this treatment
in the extreme implies using a hot iron (the actual cautery) .

Balls for Farcy.

No. 1— Calomel 20 grains.

Common Turpentine.. 3 drams.

Sulphate of Copper 1 dram.

Syrup and liquorice to form a ball.

No. 2— Iodide of Potassium 10 grains.

Sulphate of Iron 2 drams.

Gentian 2 drams.

Ginger 1 dram.

Treacle to form a ball.

Another Diabetes Remedy.

Alum \ drain.

Catechu a oz-

Sugar of Lead 10 grains.

With conserve of roses to form a ball.

Cough Balls.

No. 1— Digitalis * dram.

Nitre !a drams.

Tartar Emetic i dram.

Tar enough to form a ball. One every night.

No. 2— Gum Ammoniac 3 drams.

Opium I clram.

Powdered Squills 1 dram.

Syrup to form ball.

For Bloody Urine.

Sulphate of Zinc 40 grains.

Catechu 4 drams.

Acetate of Lead 10 grains.

Conserve of roses to form a ball. Give one daily.

DISEASES OF THE HOESE. 119

Condition Powder.

This is the best tonic Condition Powder ever used, and is used in
the Eastern cities at a high price, under various names, such a*
Condition Food, &c.

Salt if ftg.

Common Brown Sugar Q fts.

Carbonate Soda 6 oz.

Ginger (ground) £ ft.

Gentian (powdered) § ft.

Cummin Seed (ground) 6 oz.

Fenugreek (ground) ..6 oz.

Grains Pax'adise (ground) \ ft.

Meal 100 fts.

Dose — One pint with the food.

Incurable Diseases.

There are some diseases or afflictions to which the horse is
subject, which, when thoroughly established, are incurable ; among
which are heaves, cribbing, thumps, windsucking, bog and bone
spavins, curbs, ringbones and exosotosis on the joints. This latter
class of unsoundness may, however, be palliated in incipiency, by
blistering, but it should be administered by a skilled veterinarian.
If not, the effect of the treatment may be worse than the disease.

Watering Horses.

The water from ponds, streams or rain-water cisterns, is much
preferable to that from cold springs or wells, as the temperature of
it is more natural and more conducive to health than cold water,
and it is generally softer, a desirable quality of water for all animals.
If the horse is to be driven rapidly, he should be watered frequently
with tepid water, and there is great economy in removing the chill
from the water used for idle animals in cold weather.

120 DISEASES OF THE HOESE.

The food saved by observing this will pay many times the cost
of tempering the water drank. It is very injudicious to water
horses when away from home, with cold water, when they have been
accustomed to warm water at home, as it is liable to produce lung
fever, chills and severe colic.

Bare Feet for Farm Horses.

Horses used only on the farm and earth roads are better off
without shoes in summer, unless the land is very rough and stony
There is not only the saving of the cost of shoeing, but all the
destructive effects arising from shoeing in the ordinary way will
be avoided. By working the horse barefooted, the natural organs of
support are used, and a healthful condition of the feet is maintained.

It is well, however, to examine the bare feet twice a year, and
in case they wear or grow irregularly, they should be pared to the
proper shape.

Horses used] for the road in winter should be sharp shod, but
these shoes should be removed at the commencement of the plowing
season.

A VALUABLE ESSAY

ON

HORSE-SHOEING.

A few years ago the Scottish Society for the Prevention of
Cruelty to Animals offered a series of prizes for the best and most
practical essays on horse-shoeing, in connection with comfort and
soundness of the horse. About fifty essays were sent in, and were
submitted to Prof. Williams, Principal of the Edinburgh Veterinary
College; Mr. W. Kobertson, M.R.C.V.S., Kelso, and Mr. B.
Cartledge, M.R.C.V.S., Sheffield, Examiners of the Royal College
of Veterinary Surgeons, and Mr. J. C. Broad, M.R.C.V.8.,
London, by whom, after a very patient and careful exami-
nation, the first prize was awarded to Mr. George Fleming for
the following essay :

122 HORSE-SHOEING.

It requires but little observation and reflection, one would think,
in order to arrive at the conclusion that the art of horse-shoeing
is not only an important one, so far as civilization and the ordinary
every-day business of life is concerned, but that the successful
utilization of the Horse, together with its welfare and comfort, in a
great measure depend upon the correctness of the principles on
which its practice is based, and the mode in which these principles
are carried out by the artisan.

For proof of this we have but to glance at the immense traffic in
our great towns and cities in which the horse figures so prominently,
at the same time remembering that, without a defence to its hoofs,
this invaluable animal would be almost, if not quite, valueless, in
consequence of the hardness of our artificial roads, and the great
efforts demanded from him ; or, studying the anatomy and functions
of the limbs and feet, to call to mind how these are wonderfully
calculated to serve most essential purposes in locomotion and
weight-sustaining, and how necessary it is, at the same time, that
their natural adaptability be as little as possible thwarted or
annulled by the interference of man in his endeavor to protect
or aid them.

From the earliest ages, the horse's foot and its envelop, the hoof,
have been looked upon by horsemen as the principal region of the
animal's body to which care and attention should be directed ; as,
when these become injured or diseased, no matter how perfect
and sound the other parts may be, the quadruped's services are
diminished or altogether lost.

Consequently, the preservation of these in an efficient and
healthy state has ever been the aim of those who valued the Horse
for the immense advantages his services were capable of conferring
on mankind ; and in later years, those who have been moved
by the sacred impulse of humanity toward the lower creatures,

HORSE-SHOEING. 123

have not forgotten how much the noble animal may suffer from
unskillful management of its feet, through the neglect or ignorance
of those who have the special care of these organs.

At a very early period in the domestication of the Horse, and
particularly in western regions, it must have been soon discovered
that, at certain seasons, on particular soils, and especially when
called upon to perform any great amount of travelling and load-
carrying, the horn composing the hoof underwent an amount of
wear greater than nature could compensate for, and that the living
sensitive structures within, becoming exposed and irritated by contact
with the ground, gave rise to pain, lameness and inability to work.

To guard against this serious result, the ingenuity of man must
have been severely tested in devising a suitable and durable pro-
tection for the ground-surface of the hoof, and among the many
contrivances proposed, the most notable, and by far the most
valuable, has been the device of nailing a plate of metal to the
outer margin or wall of the hoof.

The antiquity of this invention is very great, and it is probable
that for many centuries the shoe was considered as nothing more
than a simple defender of the hoof from the damaging effects of
attrition, and occasionally as an aid in securing the animal's foothold
during progression on slippery ground.

As time advanced, however, and the services of the horse became
increased a hundredfold by the application of this ingenious and
simple expedient, the sciences of anatomy and physiology began to
•embrace the Horse in their domain, and, crude as they were at first,
it is to be feared that, when they were extended to the investigation
of the structure and functions of the foot, the useful and com-
paratively harmless protection of early days was made subservient
to the most varied and fantastic theories ; and it must be admitted
that for many years horse-shoeing, so far from proving a boon to
horse-owners and a preserver of horses' feet, has been far from

124 HORSE-SHOEING-.

yielding the benefits its scientific and reasonable application should
afford. Indeed, it would be no exaggeration to assert that the
predominating principles and practice of this art has been eminently
destructive to horses and a source of great loss to their owners.

These principles were founded on a misconception of the functions
of the foot and of the part assumed by the hoof in locomotion, and
their speedy popularization was due to the fact that they were
congenial to the whims of fashion and were deemed essential to the
improvement of nature, commending themselves to unreasoning and
unreasonable minds like the fashions of cropping horses' and dogs'
ears, cutting, nicking and docking tails, and other cruel fancies of
depraved tastes.

The amount of injury inflicted by an unscientific method of
shoeing may be very much greater than a cursory inquiry would
lead one to believe. To those experienced among horses, and who
have directed their attention closely to the subject, the proportion
of animals whose utility is directly or indirectly impaired by im-
proper treatment of their feet must appear excessive, when compared
with the other causes of inefficiency. Indeed, maladies of the feet
and limbs, due, more or less, to faulty shoeing, form a very large
percentage of the cases usually met with in veterinary practice.

An act, therefore, which has so much influence for good or evil,
so far as the usefulness and comfort of the horse are concerned,
surely deserves the serious study of all those who are interested in
that animal. A good system, founded on the teachings of anatomy
and physiology, and perfected by daily experience, must prove of
immense benefit to horse and owner ; while a bad system, conducted
in ignorance or carelessness, cannot but bring about pain and speedy
uselessness to the animal and loss to the proprietor.

HOESE-SHOEING.

125

ANATOMY OF THE HORSE'S FOOT.

One of the primary considerations for those who have the
shoeing and management of the horse's foot, should be the
acquisition of a knowledge of its structure and functions in
health ; not a profound knowledge, certainly, such as the scientific

Fig. 1.— Section of the Horse's Foot— a a, Skin of leg ; b b b, extensor
tendon of foot ; c, its insertion into the foot-bone ; d d, capsular ligaments
of joints; d' d', flexor tendon of foot inserted into sole of foot-bone (s) ;
a e, flexor tendon of pastern inserted at / into the small pastern bone, i;
g, shank or large metacarpal bone ; h, large pastem bone j fe, navicular
bone ; I, foot or pedal bone ; m, ligaments of navicular bone connected with
deep flexor tendon ; n, sensitive laminae, dovetailing with horny laminae
n' ; o, plantar cushion; p, coronary cushion; q, horny frog; r, wall o'
hoof ; t, sensitive membrane of frog and sole ; u, the face of the navicular
bone over which the flexor tendon plays— the seat of navicular disease.

veterinarian requires, but sufficient to enable them to understand
the situation, relation, texture, and uses of the parts of the organ
with which they have more particularly to deal. If the artisan does
not possess this knowledge, is it possible that he can practice his
handicraft to advantage, or minister effectually to the varied require-

126 HORSE-SIIOEING.

rnents of this organ ? It must be admitted that he cannot do so ;
and it is from neglect of this fundamental consideration that so
much improper and vicious shoeing prevails, and that so many horses
are crippled and prematurely worn out. By the majority of farriers
the foot of the horse is looked upon as little, if anything, more than
an insensible block of horn which they may carve and mutilate with
impunity and as suit? their fancy, and for which nothing more
is necessary than the attachment, by an unreasonable number of
nails, of a clumsy mass of iron that may not only be unsuitable for its
requirements, but positively injurious to it and the other parts of
the limb. The art of farriery in this country has never received a
scientific development, but has ever been a mere affair of routine and
tradition. Such should not be the case ; and allusion is only made
to this matter here in order to urge most strenuously the necessity
for farriers being properly instructed in the elements of their art, and
made to comprehend as much as may be required of the construction
and functions of the very important organ upon which they are
destined to exercise their skill.

The horse's foot may be said, for practical purposes, to be
intended not only as an organ of support and defence (or offence),
but also as that part of the limb in which the efforts created
elsewhere are concentrated, and as the instrument through which
propulsion and progression may be mainly effected. It is also largely
endowed, in a natural state, with the sense of touch, which enables
the animal to travel with safety and confidence on rough as well as
even, and on soft as well as hard ground.

When we come to examine it in a methodical and careful
manner, we find that it has for its basis the last three bones of the
limb — the small pastern, navicular, and coffin or pedal bone. The
latter is more particularly the foundation of the foot, and is the
nucleus on which the hoof is moulded, and which in shape it much

HORSE-SHOEING. 127

resembles. At its highest point in front, the larger extensor tendon
of the foot is inserted, and in the middle of its lower face or sole
is implanted the powerful tendon which bends or flexes the foot ;
these tendons are the chief agents in progression. An elastic
apparatus surrounds them and a portion of the pedal bone, and
the whole is enveloped by a membrane that attaches the hoof in
the closest possible manner to its outer surface. Into each of the
wings or sides of the bone (for it is crescent-shaped, the horns
extending backward on eacli side) is fixed a large plate of cartilage
that rises above the hoof, where it may readily be felt, and which
has important relations with its fellow on the opposite side, as
well as with other elastic bodies admirably disposed to sustain
weight, prevent jar, and insure that lightness and springiness which
form so striking a feature in the horse's movements. The navicular
bone is a narrow piece, placed transversely between the wings of
the coffin bone, and is intended to throw the flexing tendon farther
from the centre of motion, and thus increase its power ; the tendon
plays over its posterior or lower face, and this disposition, together
with the relations established between it and the pedal bone through
their connecting ligaments, and the bend the tendon makes
in passing over it, cause this part of the foot to be one par-
ticularly liable to disease, and one especially deserving of atten-
tive study.

The elastic apparatus of the foot consists of (1) the lateral
cartilages just mentioned ; (2), a prominent ring or cornice sur-
rounding the upper border of the pedal bone usually known as the
"coronary-substance," but which might be more aptly designated
the "coronary cushion ;" this fits into a corresponding concavity in
the inner and upper margin of wall of the hoof, and, besides
acting as an elastic body or cushion, pei'forms the important func-
tion of secreting this wall or crust of the horny envelop ; (3), a
triangular body — the plantar cushion, known to farriers as the
" fatty " or " sensitive frog " (to distinguish it from the horny frog.

-j^8 H0KSE-S1I0EING-.

which immediately covers it), admirably disposed between the
wings of the coffin bone, with a view to protect and sustain the
flexor tendon during its efforts, as well as to diminish concussion
by its own resiliency and by the connection it has with the elastic
cartilages. From its position at the back of the foot, and the
importance of the part it covers, this portion of the elastic
apparatus derives much interest, and must not be overlooked by
the farrier.

Pig. 2.— Horse's Foot divested of its Hoof— a a, Perioplic ring; b b,
'perioplic or coronary fissure ; c c c, coronary cushion covered with villi ;
d d, white zone ; ///, vascular laminae terminating in villi, g.

Besides the elastic apparatus of the foot more immediately
in connection with the pedal and navicular bones, we have the
wonderful arrangement of living membrane enveloping these parts,
whose office appears to be the secretion and attachment of the horny
box we designate the " hoof ;" to it large quantities of blood are
conveyed by the ultimate ramifications of the arteries proceeding to
the foot, and from it, by a complex distribution of veins arising from
these ultimate arterial divisions, to the great venous trunks that
pass up the limb. The terminal twigs of the senory nerves of
the foot are also freely and wisely distributed in its substance in

HOESE-SHOEING. 129

the form of exceedingly fine filaments, which endow the organ with
a sufficient sense of touch to enable it to perform its varied functions
with safety and precision. A peculiar and striking disposition of
this membrane can be observed around the front and sides of the
pedal bone, when the hoof has been removed by steeping the foot
for some time in water. This disposition consists in the elevation
of the membrane into parallel vertical leaves, which extend from the
coronary cushion to the lower border of the bone, and to a certain
distance within its wings. These leaves, which resemble in appear-
ance those on the underside of a mushroom, are known as the
"vascular" or "sensitive laminne," and number between six and
seven hundred. Their chief use seems to be to afford a wide and
close attachment for the wall of the hoof, within which, through
their agency, the penal bone is, as it were, suspended ; so that the
relations between bone and hoof are not so rigid as if they were
directly united to each other. These lanrinoe are exceedingly vascular
and sensitive, and when they become inflamed through bad shoeing,
excessive travelling, or other cause, the horse suffers most excruciating
pain, and in a large majority of cases the chronic inflammation that
remains produces serious alterations in the structure and formation
of the hoof, leading to more or less lameness and diminished
utility.

Besides entering into the formation of these leaves, this membrane
covers the other parts of the foot within the hoof, as a sock does
the human foot, and endows it with a high degree of vitality and
secretory power. It overspreads the coronary and plantar cushions*
as well as the sole of the pedal bone, and its surface in these parts
is thickly studded with myriads of tufts or "villi," which give it
the appearance of the finest Genoa velvet. These minute processes
vary in length from one -eighth to more than one-fourth of an inch,
and are best observed when a foot, from which the hoof has just been
removed by maceration, is suspended in clear water. Examined with
the microscope, they are found to be merely prolongations from the
I

130

HOUSE- SHOEING.

face of the membrane, each composed of one or two minute arteries,.
which branch off into exceedingly fine net-work, and end in hair-like
veins. A nervous filament has also been traced into the interior, so
that these tufts are not only vascular, but also sensitive. They play
an essential part in the formation of the hoof, and their relations

Fig. 3. — Sensitive Sole of Horse's Foot.— a, Cartilaginous biubs of the heels,
covered by sensitive membrane ; b, inflexion of the coronary cushion; c,
middle cleft or lacuna : d d, plantar laminae ; e, limit between the coronary
cushion and plantar lamina? ; //, branches of the plantar cushion ; g g g g,
termination of the laminae in villi ; li h, sensitive membrane of sole covered
with innumerable tine tufts or villi ; i, prolongation of the coronary cushion
into the lateral lacuna.

to that covering must not be neglected by the farrier in his treat-
ment of it.

This is all that need be said at present with regard to the
anatomy of the living parts of the horse's foot ; we have referred
to it merely to show that this organ is not a crude block of insensi-
tire matter, but a most wonderfully-constructed apparatus, possessed
of qualities which are not to be found in any other part of the body.
In constructing the foot of this noble creature, Nature sought to do
more than merely protect the extremely delicate and exquisitely

HORSE-SHOEING. joi

sensitive structure, contained within the hoof from injurious contact
with the ground. This redoubtable difficulty is comparatively insigni-
ficant in comparison with the other portions of the task she set her-
self. It was necessary that the lower extremity of the limb of such a
glorious creation as the horse, should be an organ endowed with the
acutest sense of touch for the instantaneous perception of the con-
sistence and inequalities of the ground over which it moved- and
while it possessed this quality in a high degree, it was also incnV
pensible that it should be gifted with the properties of resistance
pliability and lightness to the extent necessary for the support and
progression of the body, in addition to the rigidity essential to im-
pulsion, the elasticity and suppleness needful to avert reactions or iar
and the durability and rapidity of renovation demanded by incessant
wear. Here we have a combination of requirements whose simultane-
ous existence in one organ might almost be deemed incompatible so
opposite do they appear; insensibility with a delicate sense of touch ■
resistance with lightness, rigidity with elasticity, suppleness with
cmrai-ihty.

THE HOOF.

xhe hoot P^ys no small share in rendering the horse such a
complete animal as it is ; and, as this is the portion of the foot which
comes more immediately under the care and manipulative skill of the
farrier, xts study should be a little more detailed and minute, perhaps
than that of the internal structures. For convenience and simplicity
in description, it has been divided into « wall " or - crust " - sole "
"frog" and "coronary frog-band," or « periopie." It L essential
that the shoer should understand the structure, nature, and uses of
these parts.

The Wall of the hoof is that oblique portion which covers the
front and sides of the foot from the coronet to the gronnd, and i.

132

HOUSE-SHOEING.

suddenly inflected or bent inward at the heels, toward the middle
of the sole, to form the "bars," which are merely prolongations of
its extremities; it constitutes the circumference or margin of the
hoof, is the part of the horny box that is intended more especially to
come into contact with the ground, and is that on which the iron de-
fense rests, and through which the farrier drives the nails that attach
it. The inner face of its upper edge is hollowed out into a somewhat
wide concavity, which receives, or rather in which rests, the coronary
cushion ; this concavity is chiefly remarkable for being pierced every-

Fig. 4.— Profile of a Five-year-old Front Hoof that had never been
Shod ; external face.— Angle of wall at toe 51deg ; a a, frog baud or
periople ; b, wall ; c, toe, between wbich and cl is the " outside " or
"inside" toe or " mammilla," and between c and / the "outside" or
"inside" heel.

where by countless minute openings which penetrate the substance of
the wall to some depth ; each of these perforations receives one of the
" villi," or minute tufts of blood-vessels already mentioned as pro-
longed from the face of the membrane covering the interior of the
foot. Below this concavity, which receives a large share of the horse's
weight, the wall is of about equal thickness from top to bottom 5 on
the whole of its inner surface are ranged thin, narrow, vertical horny
plates, in number corresponding to the vascular laminae, between
which they are so intimately received or dovetailed — a horny leaf
between every two vascular ones — that in the living or fresh state

HOESE-SHOEIXG. 133

it is almost impossible to disunite without tearing them. The inner
face of the lower margin is united in a solid body to the horny sole
through the medium o; a narrow band of soft, light-colored horn,
situated between the two, and which we may call the " white line,"
or " zone."

The outer surface of the wall is generally smooth and shining in
the natural healthy state.

The dimensions of the wall vary in different situations ; in front
it is deepest and thickest, but towards the quarters and heels it
diminishes in height and becomes thinner ; at its angles of inflection
— the points of the heels — it is strong. Its structure is fibrous ; the
fibres pass directly parallel to each other from the coronet to the
ground, each fibre being moulded on, as it is secreted by, one of the
minute tufts of blood-vessels lodged in the cavity of the coronet.
Microscopically, the wall is composed of minute cells, closely com-
pressed, and arranged vertically around each fibre, and horizontally
between the fibres. A point of much practical interest is to be
found in the fact that the fibres on the surface or outside of the wall,
are very dense, close, and hard — so dense, indeed, that the wall of an
unmutilated hoof looks like whalebone; but toward the inner surface
they become softer, move spongy, and easily cut.

The Horny Sole is contained within the lower margin of the wall,
and is a concave plate covering the lower face of the pedal bone. In
structure it is fibrous like the wall, the fibres passing in the same
direction, and formed in the same manner by the tufts of vessels
projected from the membrane which immediately covers the bone.
These tufts penetrate the horn fibres to some depth, and, as in the
wall, maintain them in a moist, supple condition, such as best fits
them for their office.

The sole is thickest around its outer border, where it joins the wall ;
thinnest in the centre, where it is most concave. A notable pecu-

13i K0E8E-SH0EING.

liarity in this part of the hoof, and one which distinguishes it from
the wall, is its tendency to bre.ik off in flakes on the ground face when
the fibers have attained a certain length ; the wall, on the contrary,
continues to grow in length to an indefinite extent, and, unless kept
within reasonable dimensions by continual wear or the instruments of

Fig. 5.— Plantar Surface of left Pose Hoof of a Five-tear-old Horse
that had never been Shol — j a, glomes or heels of the frog: b, median
lacuna or " cleft" of the frog ; c c, branches of the frog; d d, heels, " angles
of inflexion," or "buttresses" of the wall of the hoof; e e, lateral lacuna?
or spaces between the frog and liars ; //, inflexions of the wall or " bars ; "
</, body of the frog ; h, outside quarter of the boof ; i, inside quarter of the
hoof; j, point of the frog ; fe, sole ; I 1, commissure, " white line," or line of
junction between sole and wall ; in, n, mammilla ; o, toe.

the farrier, would in time acquire an extraordinary distortion. The
horn of the sole, for this reason, is less dense and resisting than that
of the wall, and is designed more to support weight than to sustain
wear.

The "Homy Frog" is an exact reduplication of that within the
hoof, described as the sensitive or fatty frog. It is triangular, or
rather pyramidal in shape, and is situated at the back part of the hoof
within the bars; with its point or apex extending forward to the
centre of the sole, and its base or thickest portion filling up the wide
space left between the inflexions of the wall. In the middle of the

HORSE-SIIOEIXG. 135

posterior part is a cleft, which in the healthy state should not be deep,
but rather shallow and sound on its surface.

In structure, this body is also fibrous, the fibers passing in the
same direction as those of the other portions of the hoof; but,
instead of being quite rectilinear like them, they are waw an [
fiexuous in their course, and present some microscopical pecularities
which, though interesting to the comparative anatomist, need not
be alluded to here. The fibers are finer than those of the sole and
wall, and are composed of cells arranged in the same manner as
elsewhere in the hoof; they are formed by the villi which
thickly stud the face of the membrane covering the sensitive
frog.

The substance of the horny frog is eminently elastic, and cor-
responds in the closest manner to the dense/ elastic, epidermic
pads on the soles of the feet of such animals as the camel, elephant,
lion, bear, dog, cat, etc., and which are evidently designed for con-
tact with the ground, the support and protection of °the tendona
that flex the foot, to facilitate the springy movements of these
creatures, and for the prevention of jar and injury to the limbs.

In the horse's foot, the presence of this thick, compressible,
and supple mass of horn at the back of the hoof, its being in a
healthy, unmutilated condition, and permitted to reach the ground
whilfl the animal is standing or moving, are absolutely essential to
the well-being of that organ, more especially should speed, in
addition to weight-carrying, be exacted.

The frog, like the sole, exfoliates or becomes reduced in thick-
ness at a certain stage of its growth ; the flakes are more cohesive
than those of the sole.

It must be remarked, however, that this exfoliation of the sole
and frog only takes place when the more recently-formed horn
beneath has acquired sufficient hardness and density to sustain

136 HOBSE-SIIOEING.

contact -with the ground, and exposure to the effects of heat, dry-
ness, and moisture.

The " Coronary Frog-Band" or " Periople" is a continuation
of the more superficial layer of the skin around the coronet and
heels, in the form of a thin, light-colored band that descends to a
variable depth on the outer surface of the wall, and at the back
part of the hoof becomes consolidated with the frog, with which it
is identical in structure and texture. It can be readily perceived
in the hoof that has not been mutilated by the farrier's rasp,
extending from the coronet, where the hair ceases, to some distance
down the hoof ; it is thickest at the commencement of the wall,
and gradually thins away into the finest imaginable film as it
approaches the lower circumference of this part. When wet it
swells and softens, and on being dried shrinks, sometimes cracks in
its more dependent parts, or becomes scaly.

The fibres composing it are very fine and wavy, as in the frog ;
they likewise spring from villi which project from the true skin
immediately above the " coronary cushion."

The use of this band would appear to be twofold : it connects
the skin with the hoof, and thus makes the union of these two
dissimilar textures more complete, its intermediate degree of density
and its great elasticity admirably fitting it for this office ; and it
acts as a covering or protection to the wall at its upper part, where
this is only in process of formation, and has not sufficient resistance
to withstand the effects of exposure to the weather. The greatest
thickness and density of the band correspond to the portion of the
wall rn which the villi or vascular tufts are lodged, and here the
horn is soft, delicate, aud readily acted upon in an injurious manner
by external influences.

Thus far, then, we have rapidly glanced at the anatomy and uses
of the various parts entering into the composition of the horse's
hoof, and its horny box — the hoof. It may be necessary, before

HOBSE-SHOEING. 137

we pass to the consideration of the latter, as a whole, to allude to the
structure and uses of that narrow strip of horn, whose presence
every farrier or veterinary surgeon is cognizant of, but whose character
and functions have been strangely left out of consideration by all
anatomists hitherto. I refer to the "white line" or "zone," the
slender intermediate band that runs around the margin of the sole,
and connects that plate of horn so closely to the wall as to make
their union particularly solid and complete. When preparing the-
border of the hoof for the reception of the shoe, this part is easily
distinguished by its lighter color (in a dark hoof), and by its being.
softer and more elastic than either the sole or wall, between which it
is situated. It would appear to be secreted by the villi which ter-
minate the lower end of the vascular laminae, and the horny leaves of
the wall are also received into its substance — a circumstance that
renders the junction of the two more thorough. I think there can
be no doubt that the principal use of this elastic rim of horn, placed
in such a situation, is to obviate the danger of fracture to which the
inferior part of the hoof — particularly the sole — would be liable, if
the junction between the hard and comparatively inelastic sole and.
wall was directly affected without the interposition of such a body.

It may be noted, that it is through this soft border of horn that
gravel and foreign matters usually find their way to the sensitive
parts of the foot, and there excite such an amount of irritation as to
lead to the formation of matter, and cause much pain and lameness —
an accident which the older farriers termed ''graveling."

In viewing the horse's hoof as a whole, and in the unshod state,
we find that it presents several salient characteristics, the considera-
tion of which ought to dominate or serve as a guide in framing rules-
for the observance of farriers in the practice of their art. The first

138

HORSE-SHOEING.

of these is the direction in which the wall grows in a healthy
condition.

Viewed as it stands on a level surface, the hoof may be said to be
somewhat conical in shape, its upper part being a little less than its
base ; and although, geometrically, its shape may be described as the
frustum of a cone, the base and summit of which have been cut by
two oblique planes — the inferior converging abruptly behind toward
the superior — yet the circumference of the hoof does not offer that
regularity which this description might imply ; on the contrary, in
a well-formed foot, we find that the outline of its inferior, or ground
border, is notably more salient on the outer than the inner side,
giving it that appearance which has been designated the " spread."

pa

A cone being intersected by two planes oblique to its axis, and not
allel to each other, gives a good idea, nevertheless, of the obliquity

/ /

Fie. G.

which formed so marked a feature in the hoof. The degree of
obliquity of the front part, or toe, and of the upper surface, varies
with the amount of growth ; but where this has been counterbalanced
by a proper degree of wear, it will be remarked that this obliquity
corresponds to the inclination of the pastern-bones immediately above
the hoof, when the horse is standing.

It will be obvious that this inclination also varies with the
breeding of the animal and the conformation of the limbs, so that
no definite degree can be assigned. But it must be pointed out,

HORSE-SHOEING. 139

that giving the tugle of ib0, as is done in almost every treatise on
shoeing and the anatomy of the foot, is a grave error. Looked at in
profile, a hoof with this degree of obliquity would at once be pro-
nounced a deformity — the slope is too great (Fig. 6); and if the farrier
were to attempt bo bring every foot he shod to this standard, he would
inflict serious injury, not, only on the foot itself, but also on the back
tendons and the joints of the limbs. Careful measurement will prove
that the obliquity of the front of the hoof is rarely, if ever, in a well-
shaped leg and foot, above 50°, and that it is, in the great majority of
cases, nearer 5 6°. The sides or ': quarters" of the wall are less in-
clined, though the outer is generally more so than the inner ; while
the heels are still more vertical, and the inner may even incline
slightly inward. Viewed in profile, the posterior face of the hoof will
be observed to have the same degree of slope as the front face. In
height, the heels are usually a little more than one-half that of the
toe ; both heels are equal in height.

These features, as will be seen hereafter, are sufficiently important
to be constantly remembered. The other characteristics are to be
found on the lover or ground face of the hoof— the most important,
so far as the farrier's art is concerned.

In a natural condition, the whole, or nearly the whole, of this face
comes into contact with the ground, each part participating more or
less in sustaining the weight thrown upon the limb. On soft or
uneven soil, the entire lower border of the wall— the sole, bars and
frog — are subjected to contact. Nature intended them to meet the
ground, and there to sustain the animal's weight, as well as the force
of its impelling powers. But on hard or rocky land with a level
surface, only the dense, tough crust and bars, the thick portion of the
sole surrounded by them, and the elastic, retentive frog, meet the

140 HOBSE-SHOEING.

force of the weight and movement ; and, in both cases, not only with
impunity, but with advantage to the interior of the foot, as well as
the limb. The horn on this face is, as has been said, dense, tough
and springy to a degree varying with the parts of which it is com-
posed ; while its fibres are not only admirably disposed to support
weight, secure a firm grasp of the ground, and aid the movements of
the limbs, but are also an excellent medium for modifying concussion
or jar to the sensitive and vascular structure in their vicinity.

• The whole circumference of the wall meets the ground, and from
the disposition of its fibres, the arrangement of the cells which enter
into their composition, and its rigidity, it is admirably fitted to resist
wear and sustain pressure. It projects more or less beyond the level
of the sole, and the space measured between the white zone within it
and its outer surface gives its exact thickness. This is a fact not
without interest to the farrier in the operation of attaching the shoe
by nails, as these have to be driven only through this dense horn
— which in good hoofs cannot be said to much exceed half an inch in
thickness — and in proportion to its thinness is the necessity for care-
fulness and address on his part, in order to guard against wounding
or bruising the sensitive textures.

The sole is more or less concave from its junction with the wall ;
nevertheless, even on moderately firm ground, a portion of its circum*
ference, which is generally the thickness of the wall, takes a share in
relieving the latter of pressure. This is also a fact to be borne in mind.
In soft ground, the whole of its lower surface is made to aid in sus-
taining the weight and prevent the foot sinking. But it must be
noted that the pressure of the lower face of the pedal bone on
the upper surface of the sole can never be very great, else the
sensitive membrane between them would be seriously injured.

HOESE-SHOEING. 141

This injury is prevented by the coronary, and, to a lesser extent,
by the plantar cushion, which largely retard the descent of the
bone on the floor of the horny box.

The frog, on both hard and soft ground, is an essential portion
of the weight- bearing face. In the unshod, healthy foot it always
projects beyond the level of the sole, and seldom below that of the
wall at the heels; indeed, it is found, in the majority of hoofs,
either on a level with the circumference of this part, or beyond it,
so that its contact with the ground is assured. Hence its utility
in obviating concussion, supporting the tendons, and on slippery
ground, in preventing falls. In pulling up a horse sharply in the
gallop, or in descending a steep hill, the frog, together with the
angular recess formed by the bar and wall at the heel of the hoof,
are eminently serviceable in checking the tendency to slip ; the
animal instinctively plants the posterior portions of the foot ex-
clusively on the ground.

Dark hoofs are generally the best ; they owe their color to the
presence of minute particles of black pigment, which contains
a notable proportion of iron, and are somewhat resisting and
indestructible.

A good hoof should have the wall unbroken, its outer face smooth
and even ; the angle at the front not less than 50°— the lower or
ground face of the front hoof should be nearly circular in outline —
the sole slightly concave at the circumference, deeper at the center ;
the border of the wall ought to be thick at the toe, gradually
thinning towards the heels, but at the inflexion or commencement
of the bar a strong mass of horn should be found; the bars
should be free from fracture, and the frog moderately developed,
firm and solid.

The hind foot should possess the same soundness of horn, though
it differs from the fore hoof in being more oval in outline from the

142 1I0ESE-SH0EING.

toe to the heels ; the sole is also more concave, the frog smaller, and the
heels not so high. The horn is usually less hard and resisting — a
circumstance perhaps due to the hind feet being more frequently
exposed to humidity in the stable than the fore ones.

GROWTH OF TFTE HOOF

In any treatise on shoeing, the growth of the hoof cannot be left
out of consideration, as on it the foot, in an unshod condition,
depends for an efficient protection, while without this process the
farrier's art would quickly be of no avail

In its unarmed state, the hoof being exposed to continual wear
on its lower surface, from contact with the ground on which the
animal stands or moves, is unceasingly regenerated by the living
tissues within. We have already referred to the special apparatus
which is more immediately concerned in this wovk of regenera-
tion, and pointed out that the wall with the laminae on its inner
face* is formed from the coronary cushion at the upper part of the
foot ; the sole from the living membrane covering the lower face of
the pedal bone ; and the frog from the plantar cushion. It has
been also mentioned that this dead horny envelope, instead of being
merely in juxtaposition with this exquisitely sensitive secretory mem-
brane, is everywhere penetrated to a certain depth on its inner face
(with the exception of the portion of the wall covered with the
horny leaves) by multitudes of minute processes named villi, which
are not only concerned in the growth of the horn-fibres, acting
as moulds for them, and endowing the hoof with that degree
of lightness, elasticity, and toughness, which are so necessary to its

* It is generally stated that the horny leaves are formed by the sensitive
ones, with which they are in such close union. That this is an error, the
microscope, physiology, and pathological experience, abundantly testify.

HOESE-SHOEING. I43

efficiency, but also make this insensitive case a most useful organ of
touch.

The growth of the horn takes place by the deposition of new ma-
terial from the secreting surface ; this deposition is effected at the
commencement or root of the fibres ; where the horn is jet soft, and
its incessant operation causes these fibres to be mechanically extended
or pushed downward toward the ground in a mass. Once formed
they are submitted to no other change than that of becoming denser,
harder, less elastic, and drier, as they recede farther from the surface'
from which they originated.

So regular is this growth generally in every part of the hoof that
it would appear that the secreting membrane is endowed with an
equal activity throughout.

But, though this equality in the amount of horn secreted over so
wide a surface is an undoubted fact, yet it must not be forgotten
that, under the influence of certain conditions, the growth or descent
of the corneous material may be effected in an irregular manner,
either through a particular portion of the secretory apparatus as'
Burning a more energetic activity or being hindered more or less in its
function.

For instance, the way in which the foot is planted on the ground
has a most marked influence, not only on the amount of horn
secreted, but also on that subjected to wear.

When the superincumbent weight is equally distributed over the
lower face of the hoof, the foot may be said to be properly placed as
a basis of support to the limb ; but when, through mismanagement
or defective form, this base is uneven— one side higher than the
other, for example— the weight must fall on the lowest part to a
greater degree than the highest ; thus causing not only disturbance
in the direction of the limb and its movements, but considerably
modifying the growth of the horn. This growth is diminished at the
part subjected to most pressure— in all probability from the smaller

144 HOESE-SHOEIXG.

quantity of blood allowed to be circulated through the secretory
surface ; while to the side which is subjected to the least compression
the blood is abundantly supplied, and the formation of horn is con-
sequently augmented. This is a fact of much importance and
practical interest in farriery, as it demonstrates that an irregularity
in the distribution of the weight of the body on the foot has a
prejudicial effect on the secreting apparatus of the organ, and, as
a result, on the form of the hoof.

When the weight is evenly imposed on the foot, this apparatus,
being uniformly compressed throughout its extent, receives every-
where an equal quantity of the horn-producing material.

It is the same with the ivear of the hoof. A just disposition of
the weight is a necessary condition of the regularity of wear. While
the animal is standing on unshod hoofs the wear of horn is slight ;
it is in movement that it becomes increased, and this increase is
generally in proportion to the speed, the weight carried, nature of the
ground, and whether its surface be wet or dry. Each portion of tfie
lower face of the hoof — wall, sole, bars and frog — should take its
share of wear and strain ; but it will be readily understood that this
cannot be properly effected if the weight is thrown more upon one
side than the other. That part which receives the largest share will
be subjected to the greatest amount of loss from wear, and this, with
the diminished secretion of horn, will tend to distort foot and limb
still more.

In a well-formed leg and foot the degrees of resistance of the
different parts of the hoof are so well apportioned to the amount of
wear to be sustained, that all are equally reduced by contact with the
ground, and the whole is maintained in a perfect condition as regards
growth and wear.

The amount of growth, even in a well-proportioned foot, varies
considerably in different animals, according to the activity prevailing

HORSE-SHOEING. ^g

in, or the development of, the secreting apparatus 3 and in this respect
the operations of the farrier, as we will notice hereafter, are not with-
out much influence.

It may be laid down as a rule that the horn grows more rapidly in
warm, dry climates than in cold, wet ones; in healthy, energetic ani-
mals than in those which are soft and weakly ; during exercise than in
repose; in young than in old animals. Food, labor and shoeing also
add their influence; while the seasons are to some extent concerned in
the growth and shape of the hoof. In winter it widens, becomes
softer and grows but little; in summer it is condensed, becomes more
rigid, concave and resisting, is exposed to severer wear and grows more
rapidly. This variation is a provision of nature to enable the hoof to
adapt itself to the altered conditions it has to meet : hard horn fco hard
ground, soft horn to soft ground.

In this way we can account for the influence of locality upon the
shape of the foot, On hard, dry ground, the hoof is dense, tenacious
and small, with concave sole, and a little but firm frog; in marshy-
regions, it is large and spreading, the horn soft and easily destroyed
by wear, the sole thin and flat, and the frog an immense spongy mass,
which is badly fitted to receive pressure from slightly hardened soil.
In a dry climate, we have an animal small, compact, wiry and vigorous,
travelling on a surface which demands a tenacious hoof, and not one
adapted to prevent sinking; in the marshy region we have a large*
heavy, lymphatic creature, one of whose primary requirements is a foot
designed to travel on a soft, yielding surface. Change the respective
situations of these two horses, and Nature immediately begins to trans-
form them and their feet. The light, excitable, vigorous horse, with
its small vertical hoofs and concave soles, so admirably disposed to
traverse rocky and slippery surfaces, is physically incompetent to exist
on low-lying swamps; while the unwieldy animal, slow-paced and

146 HOKSE-SHOEINGK

torpid, with a foot perfectly adapted to such a region — its ground
face being so extensive and flat that it sinks but little, and the frog
developed to such a degree as to resemble a ploughshare in form,
which gives it a grip of the soft, slippery ground — is but indifferently
suited for travelling on a hard, rugged surface. In process of time,
however, the small concave hoof expands and flattens, and the large
flat one gradually becomes concentrated, hardened and hollow, to suit
the altered physical conditions in which they are placed.

The degree of health possessed by the horn-secreting apparatus
at any time has also much to do with its activity in generating new
material. When its blood-vessels become congested or contracted
from some cause or other, its function is in a proportionate degree
suspended, and the hoof grows in an irregular manner, and may be
altered in thickness, texture and quality.

In the ordinary conditions of town work and stable management,
I have observed that the wall of a healthy foot — its chief portion,
so far as farriery is concerned — grows down from the coronet at the
rate of about one-quarter of an inch per month, and that the entire
wall of a medium-sized hoof has been regenerated in from nine to
twelve months.

The process of growth can be greatly accelerated and exaggerated
by irritating the surface which throws out the horn material. Thus
a blister, hot iron, or any other irritant or stimulant applied to this
part, will induce not only a more rapid formation, but one in which
increased thickness is a marked feature.

SHOEING.

In the foregoing pages we have considered the foot of the horse in
natural condition, as perfectly adapted for the performance of

HOUSE-SHOEING-. 147

most essential functions : as a basis of support while the animal is
standing, and, in addition, as a powerful propelling instrument during
progression.

We have also pointed out that the hoof which envelopes it, like
a huge finger-nail, is admirably constructed and endowed as an aid
and protection to this organ, its utility mainly depending on the
texture and arrangement of the horny matter of which it is composed,
and the peculiar disposition of this in fibres of variable density, size,
and elasticity.

But these qualities of the hoof, it was again remarked, are intimately
dependent upon the manner in which the horn-secreting surface
performed its office; as if this becomes diminished, weakened, or
unable to supply sufficient material to compensate for undue wear,
the protecting case soon ceases to guard the living tissues within from
injury.

In a natural state, when the equilibrium between growth and wear
is destroyed, and the latter takes place in a rapid and unusual
manner, the animal is compelled to rest until the worn hoof has re-
covered its proper thickness ; for acute pain results when the living
parts are exposed, or when the wasted horn is insufficient to guard
them against being bruised by the ground.

In an artificial condition, when the horse is employed on hard roads,
broken ground, and in a humid climate, to carry and draw heavy
loads at different degrees of velocity, and forced to stand on stony
pavements during resting hours, his hoofs are unable to meet the
many severe demands imposed upon them.

The wear more than counterbalances the growth ; and, therefore
it becomes an absolute necessity, if the animal is to be continuously
and profitably utilized, that an artificial protection, sufficient to meet
the exigencies of the case, be employed.

148 HOESE-SHOEINa.

The lower border of the wall is, as we hare mentioned, the part
most deeph concerned in resisting wear and strain in the unshod
state, as on it the stress chiefly fails ; it is, consequently, the portion
of the hoof that suffers most severely from undue wear, and that
which alone requires protection.

This fact must have been brought prominently before the primitive
shoers thousands of years ago, as the earliest specimens of shoes yet
discovered are narrow, and in width do not much exceed the thickness
of the wall. To guarantee this from wear was to increase the value
of the horse a thousandfold, and the simply- wrought, narrow rim of
iron, boldly and securely attached to the hoof by a few rudely-shaped
nails, was sufficient for the purpose.

But having fastened on this light metallic armature, and allowed it
to remain fixed to the hoof for a lengthened period, it would soon be
discovered that the balance between growth and wear was again dis-
turbed, but this time in favor of growth ; for the wall being removed
from contact with the ground, and the rate of growth continuing as
in the unshod state, the hoof, instead of becoming diminished as
before, now became abnormally overgrown and caused inconvenience.
Then the shoe required to be taken off, and the superfluous growth
either removed by instruments and the shoe replaced, or the animal
made to travel without the iron defence until it was again needed
when the hoof had become too much worn.

Such was horse-shoeing, in all probability, in early times, and such
it is at the present day where utility is not sacrificed to stupid
theories or foolish practices.

The evils attending the usual methods of shoeing are, as has
been said, very serious and glaring; and the chief of these do not
so much depend upon the faulty conformation of the shoe — though
this is, in the majority of cases, not to be exempted from blame —

HORSE-SHOEING. 149

as upon the treatment the hoof receives before and after the ap-
plication of that article.

To illustrate these evils, and to show how unreasonable the
modern art of farriery is, as well as how it should be practised
we will commence with the foot of the unshod colt, and, in the
simplest words at our command, indicate the ordinary procedure
in applying shoes to its hoofs for the first time, pointing out, at
each step in the process, what is wrong and what is right, and giving
reasons for the adoption of the principles which ought to guide the
farrier in this most important operation.

PREPARING THE HOOF.

We will premise that the young horse about to have its hoofs
armed for the first time is tolerably docile, and that its tranquility
is not likely to be severely disturbed by the strange manipulations
to which its limbs are to be subjected. For many months previously
its attendants have had this ordeal in view, and in handling it have
not forgotten to manipulate its legs and feet quietly and gently in
something the same fashion that the farrier is likely to do -even
going so far in the lesson as to tap lightly on its uplifted hoof, as
if nailing on the shoe. The young creature is intelligent enough to
perceive that in this no harm or punishment is intended, and it soon
becomes familiar with the practice.

The farrier who shoes a young horse for the first or second
time should be a patient, good-tempered man, and an adept in
the management of horses and handling their limbs. If the opera-
tion is to be performed in a forge, there should be as little noise of
hammers or glare of fires as possible— everything ought to be con-
ducted quietly, steadily, and with kindness. Harsh treatment or
unskillful handling should be severely reprehended, and all restraint

150 HOESE-SHOEING.

or contention ought to be dispensed with — at any rate until gentle-
ness and patience have been diligently employed and have failed.
If accustomed to companions, it should have one or two horses-
beside it in the forge.

In describing the construction of the foot, we referred to the
shape of a well-formed hoof. We will presume the animal be-
fore us — like nearly every unshod horse — has hoofs of this de-
scription.

The first step, usually, in the preparation of this part for the
shoe, is to level and shorten the lower margin of the wall, pare
the sole and frog, and open up the heels. These details may
not be carried out so fully in the first shoeing as subsequently,
but we will note them as they are commonly practised during the
horse's lifetime.

Leveling the Wall is an important operation, which but few
artisans rightly understand or care to do properly. It has been
stated that unequal pressure on one side of the foot — one side of
the wall being lower than the other — is not only injurious to the
whole limb by the undue strain it imposes on the joints and liga-
ments, but that it tends to deform the hoof and modify the growth
of the horn.

It is, therefore, most essential that both sides of the hoof be
of equal depth, in addition to the whole lower margin of the wall
being level ; and to make them so, the rasp should be applied to
this border in an oblique manner, across the ends of its fibres, to
bring them to the same length.

A good idea of the necessary redaction to be effected on either
side will be derived from an inspection of the limb from the knee
or hock downward whenjplaced firmly and straight upon the ground.
Any deviation of the hoof to the inside or outside — most frequently
it is the former— can be readily detected by looking at the leg and
hoof in front.

HORSE-SHOEING. 151

The ground surface of the foot should be directly transverse
to the direction of the pastern, and it is in maintaining or
restoring this relation, that care and skill are required. If the
pastern is perpendicular to the shank-bone, and the two sides of the
lower margin of the foot are directly transverse to the line passing
down from these, then the wall has only to be lowered equally on
both sides, if it be too high.

It must be remembered, in levelling both sides of the lower sur-
face of the hoof, that the difference of a few fractions of an inch
between them will cause considerable, and perhaps very hurtful,
oscillations of the weight thrown on the limb.

A properly-instructed farrier should be able, at a glance across the
upturned foot, to discover whether it is tolerably level. In Fig. 7 I
have shown what is meant by a properly -levelled hoof, the dotted line

Fig. 7.

a a being directly transverse to the vertical line b, and the distance
from a to c of one side being equal to that from a to c of the other.

Shortening the Wall.— Reducing the wall to proper dimensions
is another important matter in connection with the preparation of
the foot for the shoe. We have seen that the natural and moderate
wear of the unshod hoof is compensated for by the incessant down-
ward growth of the horn, and that this process of wear and regene-
ration maintains the proper dimensions and just bearing of the foot.
But on the application of the shoe a barrier is at once opposed to
the wear, while the growth is not interfered with ; consequently, the

152 HORSE-SHOEING.

hoof continually increases in length and obliquity — a change which
causes derangement in the disposition of the weight of the lower par*
of the leg and foot, and other inconveniences.

In speaking of the growth of the horn, it was remarked that in
health this took place in a regular manner over the whole surface. It
seems rather contradictory, therefore, to assert that the hoof increases
in obliquity — appears to grow faster at the toe than the heels — when,
if this statement was correct, their increase in length should be always
the same. In the unshod hoof this lengthening of the toe is not

Fig.

observed; it only occurs in one that has been sho^, and is to be
accounted for by the fact that the shoe, not being nailed back so far
as the heels, is, every time the foot falls on the ground, pressed
against the horn at these parts, and so great is this downward friction
or pressure that, after a time, not only is the hoof considerably worn,
but the face of the shoe is also deeply channelled at corresponding
points. Owing to the shoe being firmly fixed around the toe, there
is no play at this part, and hence the apparent inequality in growth
between the front and back of the hoof — a circumstance more observ-
able in the fore than the hind foot, from the heels of the former
being more under the centre of gravity, and so having a greater weight
to sustain.

The pastern and foot form part of a lever that extends fr®m the
fetlock to the ground and supports the weight of the body. The
strain comes perpendicularly from the shoulder to the fetlock

HORSE-SHOEING. 153

Fig. S, a, c) ; but thence to the ground it passes along the pastern
and foot (c, d)— the extremity of the lever— and these are inclined
more or less obliquely forward ; hence the charge imposed on the
limb has an incessant tendency to increase this obliquity by
bringing the fetlock nearer the ground (6). To resist this ten-
dency, however, we have the two flexor tendons and the powerful
suspensory ligament at the back of the limb, which support this
joint and maintain its angle.

But it will be readily understood that the longer and less
upright this lever is, the greater is the strain and fatigue thrown
upon the tendons and ligament. Though an oblique pastern may
look graceful and make the horse's step more elastic and agree-
able to the rider, yet when the degree of obliquity exceeds that
intended by nature, great risk is incurred of injury to the sup-
porting apparatus. Hence the necessity for maintaining the hoof
at its normal angle — a necessity, however, which can never be
met except at the moment when the animal is newly shod ; for no
sooner is the equilibrium restored between the front and back of
the hoof and the shoe fastened on than it begins to |be disturbed
again. This inconvenience is inevitable, from the very nature of
the means we adopt to defend the foot from injury.

On the other hand, the suspensory apparatus is less severely
taxed, as the lever is short and vertical ; or, in other words, as
the pastern and hoof are upright. But this, though relieving the
tendons and ligament, throws the weight too directly on the
T3ones ; consequently the jar to these and the whole limb is great,
and even dangerous, while the back parts of the foot are unduly
strained to relieve them.

It must be, then, very evident that levelling and bringing the
ground-face of the hoof to the necessary length— equal on both
sides from toe to heel, and justly proportioned in depth at toe
and heel— is no trifling matter, as the soundness of the limb and

154

HORSE-SHOEING.

ease in progression are concerned in the operation. Excessive
length or obliquity of hoof strains back tendons and ligament ; a
hoof long at the toe and low at the heels (Fig. 9, a, b) increases
the obliquity ; on the contrary, when the heels are high and the
toe of the hoof too short (Fig. 9, c, d), the bones suffer and the
whole limb experiences, more or less, the effects of concussion.

Fis

In both cases progression is fatiguing, imperfect and hurtful
to au extent proportionate to the excess.

Another disadvantage in shoeing, arising from the tendency of
the hoof to increase in length at the toe, and also from its form,
is the change in the position of the shoe itself. The hoof being
more or less conical in shape, with its base opposed to the ground,.
it follows that, as it increases in length, its lower circumference
also widens in every direction. The result is that the shoe,
although at one time accurately fitting the hoof, gradually
becomes too narrow ; at the same time, the increase in length at
the toe carries the iron plate forward, away from the heels.

This is one more of the inevitable evils of shoeing, but which,
nevertheless, the skillful workman may greatly palliate.

The farrier equalizes both sides of the hoof by applying his
rasp in a sloping direction to the ground border or end of the wall ;
he also brings it to its natural angle with the same instrument, by

HORSE-SHOEING. 155

removing the necessary amount of horn from the margin of the hoof
at the toe or heels ; by reducing the former without interfering with
the latter, the obliquity of the foot is diminished (as in Figs. 9, c, d,
10, a) ; while rasping down the heels and leaving the toe untouched in-
creases it (Fig. 9, a, b) .

In the great majority -of cases, the heels, for the reason stated,
require but little interference ; the excess of growth is nearly always
at the toe, and thus no absolute rule can be laid down as to the angle
to which the hoof should be brought. The practiced eye can discern
at once whether the angle is in conformity with the natural bearing

Fig. 10.

of the limb, and will have no difficulty in adjusting it, should it not be
so, provided there is sufficient horn to spare for this purpose.

We have previously shown that the inclination of the front of the
hoof varies from 50° to 60°, and probably the mean between these two
angles will be that usually observed. (Fig. 9, g, e, /, is a hoof with
about 52° of obliquity; g, at 5, 45°; g, c, d, more than 60°.)

On ordinary occasions, causing the horse to stand on a level floor,
and viewing the hoof in profile a few paces off, is sufficient to inform
one of the angle; but to insure attention to this matter and prevent
mistakes, I have contrived a little instrument for my farriers, which
at once shows them the degree of obliquity, and gives them an in-

156 HORSE-SHOEING.

dication as to the amount of horn to be removed from the toe or
heels.

In the operation of levelling and shortening the hoof, is included
the general reduction of the wall.

Provided the hoof, before it comes into the hands of the farrier,
has the proper inclination and is equal on both sides of its ground
face, but is nevertheless overgrown, the artisan has then only to
remove the excess of growth without disturbing the relations between
the several regions of the wall. Or should the hoof be overgrown,
too oblique, too upright, or unequal at the sides, then in remedying
the one defect he at the same time remedies all. The amount of
horn to be removed from the margin of the hoof will depend upon
circumstances. It may be laid clown as a rule, however, that there
being but little horn to remove at the heels, these should only be
rasped sufficiently to insure the removal of all loose material in-

Fig. 11.

capable of supporting the shoe; the quarters or sides of the hoof
may require a freer application of the rasp, but as the toe is reached,
a larger quantity must be removed, as in Fig. 11, a >£. The limit
to this removal at the front of the hoof must be when the wall is
almost or quite reduced to a level with the strong unpared sole.
It must ever be borne in mind that, if the wall does not stand beyond
the level of the sole, it does not require reducing.

HORSE-SHOEING. 157

When the circumference of the hoof has at length been
brought to a condition fit to receive the shoe, the rasp must
finish its task by removing the sharp edge, and rounding it so
as to leave a thick strong border not likely to chip. The unshod
hoof nearly always exhibits this provision against fracture of the
wall-fibres.

Paring the Sole. — After the necessary diminution and correc-
tion of the obliquity of the hoof, and the preparation of the bed
for the shoe, the farrier usually proceeds to pare the sole. In-
deed, while the colt is still at large, and before the time has
arrived when its hoofs are to be shod with iron, the workman is
frequently called in to trim the hoofs, and paring the lower
surface is part of the operation.

This procedure is as barbarous as it is unreasonable, especially
when carried to the extent that has been advised in books on
horse-shoeing, viz., to pare the sole until it springs to the
pressure of the thumb. In the great majority of forges this
most pernicious practice is carried out, either because the owner
of the horse thinks it necessary, the groom or coachman that it
makes the horse go better and the feet to look well, or the
farrier that it is more workmanlike — though if he is pressed
hard for any other reason he is unable to give one of a satis-
factory character.

Like so many practices relating to the management of the
horse, this paring of the sole is absurd in the extreme, and has
not the most trifling recommendation to support it. Unfor-
tunately for those who recommend, and also those who practice
it, its evil effects are not immediately apparent ; a horse with
his soles denuded of their horn until the blood is oozing through
them, may not at the moment manifest arfy great suffering,
and may even go tolerably sound on a level pavement, though, if

158 HORSE-SHOEING.

he chanced to put his foot on uneven ground or a sharp stone,
his agony may be so acute as to cause him to fall.

The paring knife is skillfully used to remove all the surface
horn down to that which has been most recently formed, or is
in process of forming. So anxious is the groom or farrier that
this, to them, most important operation should be carried out,
that the soles are filled with cow dung, or some other filth, for
some time previously, in order that the horn may be softened
and rendered more amenable to mutilation. When this " stop-
ping" has not been done, and particularly in hot, dry weather,
the sole is often so hard that it cannot be touched by the knife,
in which case a red-hot iron is applied to the surface to soften
the horn, or hot ashes are used. Then the bars and soles are
sliced away until nothing is left but the thinnest pellicle of their
natural protection, through which not unfrequently the blood
may be oozing. This is nothing else than downright cruelty, and
should meet with the punishment it so well deserves.

To remove the excessive growth of the wall is an absolute
necessity ; but to denude the sole of its horn is wanton injury
to the foot and cruelty to the animal. This is easily accounted
for. The sole only increases its substance to a certain thickness
— never too much — and then the excess is thrown off in flakes in
a natural manner. In this way the sensitive parts are amply
protected ; the sole can sustain a share of the weight — especially
around its margin in front, where it is strongest — and meet the
ground, however rough and stony this may be, with perfect
impunity. This is its function.

It has been mentioned that the horn is secreted from the living
surface, and that myriads of beautiful vascular and sensitive tufts
dependent from this surface, enter the horn-fibres to a certain
depth, and play an important part in the formation of the sole.

HORSE-SHOEING. 159

The newly-formed torn is soft and spongy, and incapable of
resisting exposure to the air, but as it is pushed further away
from this surface by successive deposits of fresh material, it
becomes old horn, loses its moisture, and in doing so acquire^
hardness and rigidity sufficient to withstand external influences ;
then it is subjected to wear, and if this be insufficient to reduce it
sufficiently, it falls off in scales. But the process of exfoliation is
not a rapid one ; the flakes remain attached to the solid horn
beneath, more or less firmly, until it in turn commences to loosen
on the surface, and yield new flakes, when the old ones separate.
This natural diminution in the excess of horn of the sole is a
most beneficial process for the hoof. Horn is a slow conductor of
heat and cold, and when thick, retains moisture for a long period.
These flakes, then, act as a natural " stopping" to the hoof, by
accumulating and relating moisture beneath, and this not only
keeps the foot cool as it slowly evaporates, but ensures for the
solid and growing horn its toughness, elasticity and proper
development. In addition to this, every flake acts more or less
as a spring in warding off bruises or other injuries to the sole ;
and thus the floor of the horny box is protected from injury,
externally and internally.

What occurs when the farrier, following out the routine of his
craft, or obeying the injunctions of those as ignorant as himself,
or so prejudiced as not to be able to reason, pares the sole until it
springs to the pressure of his thumb ? Why, the lower surface of
the foot — that which is destined to come into contact with the
around, and to encounter its inequalities, and which more than
any other part requires to be efficiently shielded — is at once
ruthlessly denuded of its protection, and exposed to the most
serious injury. The immature horn, stripped of its outer cover-
ing, immediately begins to experience the evil effects of external

160 HORSE-SHOEING.

influences ; it loses its moisture, drys, hardens, and shrivels up j
it also occupies a smaller space, and in doing so, the sole becomes
more concave, drawing after it the wall — for it must be remem-
bered that the sole is a strong stay against contraction of the
lower margin of the hoof — and the consequence is that the foot
gradually decreases in size, and the quarters and heels narrow.
The animal goes " tender," even on smooth ground ; but if he
chance to put his mutilated sole on a stone, what pain must he
experience ! This tenderness on even ground or smoothly paved
roads arises from the fact, that not only is the entire sensitive
surface compressed, irritated, or inflamed by the hard, contract-
ing envelope, and the unnatural exposure to sudden changes of
heat and cold, but the little sensitive processes contained at the
upper end of each of the horn-fibres are painfully crushed in
their greatly diminished tubes, and instead of being organs of
secretion and the most delicate touch, they are now scarcely more
than instruments of torture to the unfortunate animal. Not
only is pain or uneasiness experienced during progression, but
even in the stable the horse whose soles have been so barbarously
treated, exhibits tenderness in his feet by resting them, and if
felt, a great increase of temperature will be perceived.

Owing to the secreting apparatus of the sole being deranged
through this senseless paring, the formation of new horn takes
place slowly, and it is not until a certain quantity has been
provided to compensate in some degree for that removed, that
the horse begins to stand easier, and travel better. Scarcely,
however, has the restorative process advanced to this stage, than
it is time for him to be reshod, when this part must again
submit to be robbed of its horn.

The sole having been pared too thin and concave leaves the cir-
cumference of the hoof standing much higher than if it had been

HORSE-SHOEING. 161

left intact, and apparently too long ; so the wall niust be still
more reduced. This is done, and we now have the whole ground-
face of the hoof so wasted and mutilated, that should the horse
chance to lose a shoe soon after being shod, the impoverished foot
cannot bear the rude contact of the ground for more than a few
yards, and the poor creature is lame and useless.

The tenderness and lameness arising from this mal-treatment
are usually ascribed to everything but the right cause, and the
most popular is concussion. To avert this and protect the de-
fenceless sole, a most absurd shoe is required ; and, still more
absurd, the natural covering is attempted to be replaced by a
plate of leather, interposed between the ground and the sole,
and which is made to retain bundles of tow steeped in tar or
some pernicious substance. It is scarcely necessary to say that
this artificial covering is but a poor substitute for that which
has been so foolishly, and with so much careful labor, cut away;
indeed, in several respects the leather sole, even when only
placed between the wall and the shoe, and not over the entire
surface, is very objectionable.

Seeing, therefore, the natural provision existing in the sole of
the hoof for its diminution in thickness, when necessary, and
knowing that the intact sole is the best safeguard against injury
and deterioration to this region, it must be laid down as a rule
in farriery — and from which there must be no departure — that
this part is not to be interfered with on any pretence, so
long as the foot is in health ; not even the flakes are to be
disturbed.

By adhering to this rule, the horse can travel safely and with
ease in all weathers and over any roads immediately after shoe-
ing ; the foot is maintained in a healthy condition ; the sole can
sustain its share of the weight, and thus relieve the wall of the
K

1G2 HORSE-SHOEING.

hoof ; and should a shoe happen to be lost, the animal can
journey a long distance -with but little injury to the organ.

Another of the many advantages derived from allowing the
sole to remain in its natural condition, is that on a soft surface
the hoof will not sink so deeply as one whose sole has been
hollowed out by the farrier, neither is it so difficult to withdraw
from the heavy soil.

Paring the Frog. — This part of the hoof is that which, in the
opinion of the grooms and coachmen, most require cutting, " to
prevent its coming on the ground and laming the horse ;" and
this reason, together with its softer texture, causes it to be made
the sport of the farrier's relentless knife. It is artistically and
thoroughly trimmed, the fine elastic horn being sliced away,
sometimes even to the quick, and in its sadly reduced form it
undergoes the same changes as have been observed in the pared
sole. No wonder, then, that it cannot bear touching the ground
any more than the sole. Strip the skin off the sole of a man's
foot and cause him to travel over stony or pebbly roads ! "Would
be walk comfortably and soundly ?

The artistically shaped frog soon wastes, becomes diseased,
and at length appears as a ragged, foul-smelling shred of horn,
almost imperceptible between the narrow, deformed heels of the
pared foot.

The function of the frog in the animal economy is one of
great moment, and has already been indicated. It is emi-
nently adapted for contact with the ground, and in this re-
sides its most important office. To remove it from the
ground and deprive it of its horn, is at once to destroy its
utility and its structure, and withdraw from the foot ®ne of
its most essential components. The longer the frog is left
untouched by the knife, and allowed to meet the ground,
the more developed it becomes ; its horn grows so dense and
resisting, yet without losing its special properties, that it

HORSE-SHOEING. 163

braves the crushing of the roughest roads without suffering in
the slightest degree; it ensures the hoof retaining its proper
shape at the heels ; is a valuable supporter of the limb and foot
while the animal is standing or moving; and is an active agent,
from its shape and texture, in preventing slipping; its reduction
and removal from the ground, I am perfectly convinced from long
observation, have a tendency, directly or indirectly, to induce
that most painful, frequent, and incurable malady — navicular
disease, as well as other affections of this organ.

The farrier should, therefore, leave the frog also untouched,
unless there be flakes which are useless— though this is extremely
rare ; then these ought to be cut off. So particular am I in this
respect, however, and so well aware am I of the fondness of the
workman to cut into this part, that I never allow any frogs to be
interfered with unless I am present. If any gravel has lodged
beneath the flakes, at the side, or in the cleft — which is most un-
frequent — this is removed by some blunt instrument.

To show the value of contact with the ground: when a horse
with a diseased frog is brought to me, I at once order the hoof to
be so prepared or shod that this part will immediately receive
direct pressure — in a brief space the disease disappears. Cases of
what grooms call "thrush," of many years' duration, and which
had defied all kinds of favorite dressings, have been cured, and
the rotten, wasted frogs have become sound and well developed
in a few months.

Opening-up the Heels.— Having done everything possible to ruin
the sole and the frog, the farrier proceeds to complete his work
by opening-up the heels. This operation is quite as injurious—
if it is not more so — than mutilating the sole and frog; it consist
in making a deep cut into the angle of the wall at the heel, where
it becomes bent inward to form the bar.^In the unshod, natural

164 HORSE-SHOEING.

state, or in the unmutilated foot, this is a particularly strong
portion of the hoof, and serves a very useful purpose, its utility
being mainly owing to its strength. From its preventing con-
traction of the heels, it has been named the arc boutant or " but-
tress " of the foot by the French hippotomists.

When it is hacked away by the farrier's knife, the wall of the
hoof is not only considerably weakened, but the hoof gradually
contracts toward the heels.

Horse dealers and grooms are the chief patrons of " well-
opened " heels, as they give the foot a false appearance by mak-
ing it look wider in this region.

The fashion of paring the sole until it yields to the pressure of
the thumb has been perpetuated through the ignorance of those
who have had the management of horses, or the traditions and
routine of the artisans who have more especially to attend to the
requirements of the hoofs of these animals. But it must be ob-
served that this paring, slicing away the frog and opening up the
heels has been largely due, in later times, to the false notions
propounded by some writers regarding the functions of the foot :
such as the descent of the sole, the inability of the frog to sustain
contact with the ground, and the expansion of the back parts of
the hoof every time the weight was imposed upon it. It is scarcely
necessary here to say more than that these notions are at least
extremely exaggerated, and that the practices which were main-
tained to facilitate these supposed functions have been productive
of an immense amount of suffering and loss of animal life.

It should be ever most strenuously insisted upon that the whole
lower face of the hoof, except the border of the wall, must be left
in a state of nature. The horn of the sole, frog and bars has an
important duty to fulfill 5 it is the natural protection to this part
of the hoof, and no protection of iron, leather or other material
is half so efficacious 3 in addition, it is a capital agent in sus-

HORSE-SHOEING.

165

taining weight and in keeping the whole foot healthy and
perfect in form.

THE SHOE.

The Ordinary Shoe.— The hoof having been prepared by the
farrier, according to his fancy, for the reception of the metal
plate which is to garnish it, here again we find that ignorance
prevails and is productive of inconvenience and injury. " Im-
proved principles" demand that a particular-shaped shoe be
applied ; no matter whether the animal be for saddle, harness, or
draught purposes, it must have a shoe that rests only on the margin

Fig. 12.

of the hoof— on the wall. Therefore, except a narrow border to
correspond with this margin, the upper or foot-face of the shoe is
beveled away, so as to leave a wide space between it and the
sole, and throw all the weight and strain on the outer parts of the
foot (Fig. 11) ; in addition to which disadvantage, this space is
admirably contrived to lodge stones, gravel, hardened mud or
snow, and in heavy ground it increases the suction immensely.
But, as will be easily understood from the manner in which the
under-surface of the foot has been treated, this beveling is
rendered an absolute necessity if the horse is to be preserved
from immediate lameness. The sole has been pared so thin that,
so far from its being able to withstand a tolerably large amount

106 HORSE-SHOEING.

of pressure around its margin — particularly toward the toe — it
must be most carefully preserved, not only from contact with the
shoe, but also with the ground. This necessitates a wide surface
of metal, which increases the weight of the shoe, making it
clumsier to wear, and affords a large under or ground surface for
slipping. And even with a shoe of such dimensions the creature
cannot travel at ease on stony roads, as the least pressure of a
stone on the tender sole causes him to limp ; and if the stone
lodges in the space between shoe and sole, serious injury is
likely to be done.

Weight. — In addition to the beveling and the width, the shoe in
ordinary use has several other glaring defects. One of these is
generally its excessive weight ; it contains an amount of iron far
greater than is necessary to protect the hoof from the effects of
wear. One reason alleged for the employment of these cumbrous
masses of iron attached to the ends of a horse's limbs is that they
prevent concussion to the foot. This any reasonable person will
at once perceive is a manifest absurdity. The hoof by its light-
ness, its texture, and the wonderful arrangement of its component
parts, is well adapted to avert concussion. An inelastic, heavy
lump of iron firmly attached to it, and coming into forcible
collision with the ground at every step, must surely be more
likely to increase this concussion than diminish it.

There can be no difficulty, I imagine, in estimating the injury
inflicted by unnecessarily heavy shoes. Nature formed the lower
extremity of the limb with a view to lightness, no less than to
other iurportant ends. The hoof-bone is quite porous and open in
texture, to diminish its ponderosity without detracting from its
size or stability ; while the hoof itself is, as we have just noticed,
remarkable for the manner in which its material is arranged with
a special intention to confer light-footedness upon the animal.

HORSE-SHOEING. 167

The reason for this diminution in weight, while it is coincident
with increase in bulk, is to be found iu the fact that the muscles
principally concerned in moving the limb— swinging, straighten-
ing, and bending it backward and forward — are all situated
above the knee or hock. The moving power is at one end of a
•comparatively long lever with two arms, while the weight to be
moved is at the other extremity. The arm of the lever to which
the power is applied is very short, so that though rapidity is
gained, more power is lost, and it is palpable that every ad-
ditional ounce added to the foot must be nearly, if not more than
•eepial to a pound at the shoulder.

In shoeing, this important consideration has been strangely
overlooked; and yet we cannot forget that it has a great in-
fluence on the wear of, not only the shoe, but also the muscles,
tendons, ligaments and joints, and even, indirectly, of the
entire animal. " If, at the termination of a day's work," says
an eminent French veterinary professor, " we calculate the
weight represented by the mass of iron in the heavy shoes a
horse is condemned to carry at each step, we shall arrive
at a formidable array of figures, and in this way be able to
estimate the amount of force uselessly expended by the ani-
mal in raising the shoes that overload his feet. The calcu-
lation I have made possesses an eloquence that dispenses
with very long commentaries. Suppose that the weight of a shoe
is two pounds, it is not excessive to admit that a horse trots at
the rate of one step every second, or sixty steps a minute. In a
minute, then, the limb of a horse whose foot carries two pounds
makes efforts sufficient to raise a weight of one hundred and
twenty pounds. For the four limbs, this weight in a minute is
represented by 120x1=480 pounds ; for the four feet during an
hour, the weight is 28,800 pounds ; and for four hours, the mean
duration of a day's work in the French omnibuses, the total

168 HORSE-SHOEING.

amount of weight raised has reached the enormous figure of
115,200 pounds. But the movement communicated to these
115,200 pounds represents an expenditure of the power employed
by the motor without any useful result ; and as the motor is a
living one, this expenditure of strength represents an exhaustion,
or, if you like it better, a degree of fatigue proportioned to the
effort necessary for its manifestation."

This question of weight is one of no small moment to the
well-being and utility of the horse, and therefore demands par-
ticular attention. Nature, in constructing the animal machine,
and enduing it with adequate power to sustain the ordinary re-
quirements of organization, and even to meet certain extra-
ordinary demands, could scarcely have been expected to provide
the large additional amount of energy necessary to swing several
ounces, or even pounds, attached to the lower extremity of the
limb. A horse shod with a two-pound shoe to each foot, travel-
ing at the rate of sixty steps in a minute for a period of four
hours, as has been stated above, carries nearly fifty-two tons.
This weight, too, as has been stated, is most disadvantageously
placed at the end of the long arm of the lever. It must be
remembered, also, that a two-pound shoe is a very moderate
affair when compared with many that are worn every day in town
and country, even by horses employed in fast work.

Not only does an ivnnecessarily heavy shoe fatigue and
wear out the limbs sooner than a light one, but the fatigue
it induces causes it to be less durable, in proportion to the
quantity of iron. This is accounted for by the manner in
which the fatigued limbs drag their heavy load along the
surface of the ground. Heavy shoes also require more and
larger nails to attach them securely to the hoof, and this in

HORSE-SHOEING. 16£>

itself is an evil of no trifling magnitude, as we shall see pre-
sently.

The shoe, besides being heavy, may offer other serious defects.
It may be very uneven on its upper bearing surface-that on
which the hoof rests ; it may have too many clips, and these not
well formed or situated ; its ground surface may be unequal ; or
the holes for the nails may be badly placed, and improperly
stamped.

An uneven upper surface is apt to produce lameness, from
the undue pressure it occasions on limited parts of the hoof, and
through these to the corresponding living textures ; or it may
cause the wall of the hoof to split, etc.

Nails badly placed and improperly stamped are a prolific source
of injury to the foot, and the same may be said of nial-forined or
wrongly-situated clips; and much evil results from the ground-
face of the shoe being higher at one part than another. This
inequality is in nearly every case due to the presence of what are
termed " calkins" at the extremities of the branches of the shoe ;
or to one side of the plate being thicker than the other.

Caifcms.-Calkins are injurious to the limb in proportion to
their height. When smallest they are an evil, as they have a
tendency, in raising the back part of the foot higher than the
front, to alter the natural direction of the limb, and throw undue
strain on the fore part. Intended to prevent slipping, their use
in this respect is but temporary, unless they are made high and
thick; when their unfavorable influence on the limb and foot is
increased. Added to this, from their throwing so much of the
weight and strain on the front of the foot, the shoe is more
rapidly worn away at the toe; so its thickness there must be
oreater, and the shoe in consequence heavier, or the animal will
have to be more frequently shod. From their only lasting for a
limited period, the horse, at first inclined to rely on them to

170 HORSE-SHOEING.

preserve his footing on slippery roads, becomes timid and unsafe
when they are worn down to the surface of the shoe. By their
form, and their projecting so much beyond the level of the plate,
they jar the limb ; expose it to twists and treads sometimes of a
grave character; induce shortening of the flexor tendons; and
until they have been considerably reduced, interfere with the
animal's action. They are also liable to cause the shoe to be torn
off, by getting caught between paving-stones ; while they produce
severe lacerations, should the horse wearing them happen to kick
another animal. This is more particularly observed among army
horses which have calkins on their hind shoes — and especially
when in camp or picketed. They also throw more strain upon
the nails and the hoof itself. Neither must it be forgotten
that they remove the frog from contact with the ground.

One side of the shoe being higher than the other produces the
same results as follow when the hoof is unequal in this respect.
The hind limb is more exposed to this evil than the fore one, from
calkins being most frequently added to the hind shoes, and from
the fashion of having the inner branch thickened, but not suffi-
cient to compensate for the height of the calkin on the outer heel.
This inequality is productive of injury to the fetlock and hock
joints, and is doubtless not unfrequently the cause of that for-
midable disease of the latter — spavin.

But even if the farrier has reason to apply shoes whose ground-
surface is not studded with calkins or any other kind of " catch,"
he, in nearly every case of ordinary wear, puts on one which has
the whole of this surface perfectly plane, and not relieved through-
out its length or width by any thing, except perhaps the groove
around its outer circumference, in which the nail-holes are placed.
This wide, smooth surface is evidently adapted to facilitate slip-

HORSE-SHOEING. 171

ping on smooth pavements, or even on grass or clay land.

Size.— Besides constructing the shoe of a faulty shape, a very
common practice is to apply one smaller than the actual contour
of the ground-surface of the hoof. This is a grave error, and in
all probability arises from the desire to make the horse's foot
look neat, and to produce fine work; just as the maker of shoes
for the human foot thinks it the perfection of workmanship to
squeeze it into the smallest possible space. In the horse, however,
small shoes are more fruitful of lameness and chronic deformity
than even the worst-shaped cramped coverings can be for the
human organ, as the horse is compelled to wear his tight plates
day and night, and must accomplish all kinds of severe labor in
them ; while man can relieve himself of his torturing, uncom-
fortable boots for at least some hours out of the twenty-four.

We shall allude to the evils of this stupid practice hereafter,
in the meantime it may be sufficient to point out, that in select-
ing and supplying a shoe smaller than the circumference of the
hoof, we are depriving the foot and limb of a portion of their
stability and weight-bearing surface. The limb is, in reality, a
column of support for the body, and the hoof is the base of this
column. This base is very much wider than any other portion,
and only commences at the foot, which gradually widens towards
the ground, so as to make it still more expanded and efficient.
To diminish this is to frustrate Nature's mode of affording
security and ease to the limb, and consequently to do it harm.

The above are only some of the more prominent evils attendant
on the present method ot constructing and shaping the horse's
shoe ; others, such as making it of bad material, altogether unlike
the outline of the hoof, etc., we will glance at presently. We
have only now to consider what has been for very many years the
aim of those who, overlooking the real injury done to the foot by
the barbarous fashion of paring and rasping, imagined the chief,

172 HORSE-SHOEING.

if not the sole, cause of lameness and inefficiency arose from the
faulty character of the protection applied to it, and have sought
to avert these by devising various kinds of shoes, or other
methods of arming the hoof.

It is scarcely necessary to say, that from their neglecting, or
being unconscious of the harm that resulted from the mal-
practices already indicated, their so-called improvements have
been impotent for good, and have soon been consigned to for-
getf ulness.

Objects to be Attained. — "We have stated what were the objects to
be attained when shoeing was first introduced. To prevent undue
wear of the horn, and at the same time to secure a good foothold
for the horse, appear to have been all that was considered essen-
tial in the infancy of the art of farriery. And it must be
conceded that, even now, these are the primary advantages to be
achieved in constructing a horse-shoe, no matter what kind of
task the horse that wears it may be required to accomplish.

There can scarcely be a doubt that any thing more simple and
efficient, and at the same time less expensive, than a well-devised
iron shoe, cannot at present be produced ; nor can the compara-
tively safe and ready method of attaching it by nails be super-
seded by any other means that we are acquainted with. All
teutatives in this direction have failed, either because of their
inefficiency or greater expense.

Simplicity, cheapness, durability, and perfect adaptability to
various requirements, are the essentials to be obtained in horse-
shoes ; and if one or more of these is absent in any particular
pattern, it can never be generally adopted, and is certain to have
but brief success.

The effects of applying an iron defence to the horse's foot, and
securing it to the hoof by means of nails, are no doubt a source
of injury to that organ ; and even with every care a few

HORSE-SHOEING. 173

of them are unavoidable ; but they are increased in number and
heightened in intensity when the shoe is badly constructed
and attached; whereas, by the exercise of a little common-
sense and observation, those which are not to be avoided may
be mitigated.

The foot, as has been observed, is a perfect organ, formed in
harmony with the other parts of the limbs to meet every require-
ment in bearing weight and aiding movement.

The hoof, as an integral portion of the foot, possesses these
qualities to a high degree, and, but for its inability to withstand
incessant wear, would need no assistance from man, except
perhaps a little trimming when it became over-grown or irregu-
lar. Its lower margin— hard, narrow, and projecting slightly
beyond the sole— is well adapted to support weight, withstand
wear, and retain a hold of the ground ; the concave sole, in
addition to its assisting the margin to support weight and wear,
also lends its aid in securing a foothold by its hollow surface ;
while the angle of the wall at each heel— the <c buttress"— would
appear to be specially designed to afford a most effective check
to the sliding forward of the foot as the animal suddenly pulls up
when moving at a fast pace on level ground, or attempts to stop
or diminish his descent on a slippery declivity.

Those who study the functions of the animal body, and who
have to restore these when deranged, well know that in their
attempts to keep them in a normal condition or to bring them
back to a healthy • state, they must attend to the laws which
govern these functions, and follow the indications of nature.
Therefore I have asked myself if it is possible to construct a shoe
which, while cheapily and easily manufactured by any ordinary
farrier, will answer the same ends as the lower surface of the foot
does in a natural state, at the same time protecting and support-
ing it, without interfering to any appreciable extent with the

174 HORSE-SHOEING.

healthy functions of the organ. We have seen that the ordinary
shoe is extremely imperfect, if it is not diametrically opposite to
what we should consider as calculated to protect the foot, secure
a good foothold, and interfere but little with its functions. In-
stead of supporting the sole at its strongest part, and thus
relieving the wall from much of the strain, it rests on the wall
alone ; this is contrary to natural indications. The wide space
between sole and shoe affords lodgment to foreign bodies which,
when the sole is artistically mutilated, may do grievous harm,
and it also increase* suction in soft ground ; the hoof shows
nothing of this kind. Then, again : the ground-face of the shoe
is a wide and smooth plane which, instead of preventing slipping,
conduces to it ; or thickened portions project above this face,
which disturb the balance and injure the limb, while they are
only of very temporary and questionable service in insuring a
firm footing.

In the unshod hoof we see nothing of this, and we are brought
to the conclusion, which daily experience amply confirms, that
in addition to the ordinary management of the hoof being utterly
erroneous , the shoe usually applied to it is very far from what
it ought to be.

Pattern of Shoe Recommended. — If the sole of the hoof has
not been mutilated by the knife, it does not require to
be covered by the shoe, as Nature has furnished an infi-
nitely better protection. Wide-surface shoes can therefore
be at once dispensed with, and a narrow shoe, made of the
very best and toughest iron, adapted for traveling on slip-
pery roads, and for aiding foot and limb, and sufficient to
withstand wear for four or five weeks, is all that is required.
We will therefore conclude that the upper or foot surface
should be the whole width of the shoe, and plane — not bevelled
— for we have seen that the sole was destined, particularly
at this junction with the wall in front, to sustain weight.

HORSE-SHOEING. 175

We also know that it is advantageous to the whole foot and limb
to allow the sole as wide and general a bearing as possible ; so
that one part may relieve the other— the sole coming to the aid
of the wall, and the frog interposing to share the fatigue imposed
upon both, as well as to relieve the strain on the hinder parts of
the foot, flexor tendons and limb, and keep a firm grasp of the
ground by its elastic and adhesive properties.

The shoe applied to the foot, then, should have its hoof surface
flat, in order that it may sustain the wall and as much of this
strong portion of the sole as its width permits. This is contrary
to the usual practice, which on]^ allows the wall to rest on a
narrow surface, and bevels off the remainder of the shoe to
prevent contact with the sole. Many years' experience of this
plane foot-surfaced shoe in various regions of the globe, and on
feet of every kind and quality, have proved the soundness of this
view. The foot is brought as near to a state of nature when the
greater part of its plantar surface supports the weight of the
body, as man can hope to achieve while submitting the horse to
an artificial existence.

A light thin shoe is always preferable to a heavy thick one ; as
the narrowness of the metal insures a good foothold— in this
respect imitating the wall— while its thinness brings the sole,
frog and bars in closer approximation to the ground.

It is impossible to devise a shoe that will successfully meet
every requirement. The heavy draught-horse, doomed to bring
into play every muscle in endeavoring to move and drag along an
enormous load, must have his feet differently armed to the hunter
or race-horse, with which speed is the chief requisite. Taking
into account the different character of the horny textures, it is-
none the less true, however, that the same rule holds good in all

176 HORSE-SHOEING.

with, regard to the sole and frog-sustaining weight, though in the
slow- moving animal it is of less importance, perhaps, than in the
lighter and more fleet one. The massive draught horse requires
toe and heel projections or ' c catches" on the ground surface of
the shoes, to economise his locomotive powers and to aid his
powerful efforts ; though his hoofs none the less require the
observance of those conservative principles which have been so
strongly insisted upon, but which are so very seldom applied.

To give the greatest amount of strength and foothold to the
shoes of the heavy draught horse, with the least amount of
weight, should be an object always kept in view in making them.
But, with this animal, the principal object is the preservation of
the wall of the hoof in order tMfct it may remain sound and strong
for the retention of the nails ; to assist in effecting this, the sole
and frog must be preserved intact.

The form of the shoe in all cases should in outline resemble the
shape of the ground surface of the hoof. It has been decided that
its upper surface must be flat from the outer to the inner margin.
For horses other than those of heavy draught, its width will of
course vary ; but it is an advantage to have it as narrow as is
compatible, in relation to its thickness, with the amount of wear
required from it.

The ground-face of the shoe is the next point for consideration.
This should always be, if possible, parallel with its upper face ;
that is, the shoe ought to be plane on both surfaces, and of the
same thickness on both sides, not only in the fore, but also the
hind shoes. This guarantees the foot and limb being kept in a
natural position. What are termed " calkins" on one or both
heels are very objectionable, for the simple reason that, as has
been stated, they raise the back part of the foot higher than
the front, and throw the limb forward ; unless the hoof
meets the ground in its natural direction, some portion

HORSE-SHOEING. 177

of the leg or foot will be certain to suffer. Therefore, what-
ever device may be employed to prevent slipping and secure
a hold on the ground should not interfere with the natural
direction of the limb or foot. If calkins are deemed necessary,
then the front part of the shoe ought to be raised to a correspond-
ing height either by thickening its substance or adding a toe-
piece. In the majority of cases, however, the use of these pro-
jections is problematical, and it is certain that hundreds of horses
travel as safely without them as with them. In many of our
large towns and cities they are but little employed, and with
advantage to the legs and feet. For many years I have not
allowed a calkin to be worn on the shoe of any of the horses in
my charge, and no complaints of slipping or insecure footing have
ever been made, nor have any reports of horses falling down
either on slippery turf or the smooth surface of paved streets,
from the absence of calkins, ever reached me. Having studied
the subject of farriery practically for several years, in the large
cities of Glasgow and Manchester before entering the army, and
having during fifteen years' service been attached to those
branches in which light or riding-horses are employed, my op-
portunities for observation have been extensive. These oppor-
tunities have led me to form the opinion just given as to the
value of calkins. While stationed with my regiment in Edin-
burgh in 1864-65, I obtained permission to dispense with calkins
on the hind-shoes (they are not worn on the fore-shoes of cavalry-
horses), and though the orderly and other diities were somewhat
heavy on the streets of that city— which are perhaps the most
slippery in Britain— no accident occurred.

For more than three years I have been stationed in a large
garrison town in the south of England with nearly three hundred
horses— most of which are draught— in my charge. The greater

L

178 HORSE-SHOEING.

portion of these animals are employed several hours every day~
conveying heavy loads np and down very badly-made and exces-
sively-steep roads ; no calkins or toe-pieces are worn, no slipping*
is ever observed, while the sprains and injuries arising from the
use of calkins are unknown.

This immunity I attribute not alone to the absence of these
projections, but to the care always taken to keep the hoofs healthy,
properly adjusted, and strong, with the frogs resting as much as
possible on the ground.

In attempting to prevent slipping, and to afford a firm hold of
the ground, without having recourse to calkins, a great object is
to diminish the wide surface of metal of the shoe, without inter-
fering, as little as possible, with its resistance to wear. The
simplest method of doing this is to merely change the bevel on
the foot-surface of the ordinary shoe to its ground-surface —
making what is now concave, flat, and what is now the flat, slip-
pery ground-surface, concave. The effect is almost magical in the
security it gives the animal during progression, and is best exem-
plified in the case of the hunter, which is usually shod with shoes
of this description. Here, again, we are only imitating Nature
by copying the concavity of the sole. There can be no doubt
whatever as to the advantages to be gained by using such shoes.
The sole is pretty well supported as well as the whole of the wall,
by the wider surface of the metal above, while the narrow surface
toward the ground affords security of tread.

For general purposes this is an excellent form of shoe, but to
make it still more efficient I devised a modification of it some
years ago, which is an exact reproduction in iron of the ground-
surface of this part of the hoof ; it has been employed on the road
and in the field with most satisfactory results both on the fore and
hind feet.

HORSE-SHOEING.

179

In this shoe (Fig. 13), instead of the bevel on the ground-
surface gradually becoming shallower as it approaches the heels,
as in the ordinary hunting shoe, it becomes deeper, until, within
an inch or two of the extremity of the branch, it has cut down
through the thickness of the inner border ; it then abruptly
ceases, leaving a sharp catch on each side, that, like the in-
flexion of the wall at this part (Fig. 5, d d), affords an excellent

Fig 13.

grip, which moreover lasts until the shoe is quite worn out.
With a modification of this kind, three important objects are
secured : 1. The plane upper surface, resting flat and solidly on
the crust and unpared sole, leaves no space in which foreign
"bodies — as clay, stones, or gravel — may lodge, and in heavy
ground suction is lessened. 2. The metal is only removed from
the parts where it can be best spared, and where there is least
wear ; consequently the shoe is lightened without being weakened.
3. The level border and extremities of the branches afford an
equal bearing for the foot, while the gradually deepening bevel,
with its sudden check, secures a permanent and powerful catch-
ing point like that at the angle of the wall.

The shoe is easily made by any farrier, differing, as it does, so
little from the ordinary hunting-shoe, and the shape is the same
for the fore as the hind shoe, except that the former is, of

180

HORSE-SHOEING .

course, more circular than the latter, to correspond with the
shape of the hoof. •

To make its fabrication as simple, speedy, and easy as the
ordinary shoe, I have made it in two moulds or (i cresses," which
fit into the anvil. These moulds are of iron faced with steel ;
one (Fig. 14) has two wide, slightly curved transverse grooves cut
on its surface, the one side of each being shallower than the
other ; in these each branch of the shoe is moulded. The other
cress (Fig. 15) has also two indentations so formed as to cut the
check or " sunk calkin." With these moulds, the shoe is as easily
and quickly made as the common one, and requires but little
finishing. The moulds may be of three sizes, to suit different-
sized feet and different kinds of work, and can be forged by any
ordinary blacksmith or farrier.

Fig. 14.

Fig. 15.

This shoe has been somewhat extensively tried by carriage
and saddle horses, and with the very best results. For hunting
or cavalry purposes it is excallent, particularly on slippery grass-
land, the sharp point of the catch biting the surface of the
ground most effectively.

Clips. — For carriage and saddle-horses and hunters, each
fore and hind shoe should have a clip drawn up at the middle
of the toe, except in special cases, as when the horse over-
reaches, or, from being required to jump, or any other cause,
is likely to strike any part of the back of the fore-legs ; in

HORSE-SHOEING 181

which case, the hind shoes require to have a clip at each side of
the toe— none in the middle— the hoof in front being allowed to
project beyond the shoe. The latter should have all sharp edges
carefully removed at this part, particularly in the case of
hunters.

Clips, when judiciously placed, are of service in retaining the
shoe, and so permitting the number of nails to be diminished ;
but, as a rule, they should be as few as possible, as they are
sometimes a source of injury to the hoof, particularly if they are
situated in too close proximity to the nails.

Varieties of Shoes.— Various forms of shoes have been from
time to time proposed with a view to prevent slipping, but only
those which have had their ground-surface grooved, beveled, or
"toothed," have met with any success. In recent times, an
American shoe— the " Goodenough "— has had wonderful qualities
claimed for it in this respect. It differs but little from the
common hunting shoe. It has several trivial projections cut on
the outer margin of its lower surface, which may prevent slipping
so long as they last ; but in a very short time they are worn
away, and then it has nothing to recommend it beyond the
ordinary hunting shoe. The shoe is made by machinery.

Mr. Gray, of the Mowbray Works, Sheffield, has introduced
machine-made shoes faced with steel, and grooved into two or
more sharp ridges on their ground surface. When fitted, these
shoes are tempered; consequently they are harder than iron,
should wear for a longer period, and may thus be made lighter.
If their hardness does not cause them to be more slippery on
smooth pavement, when the ridges have become somewhat worn,
than the iron shoe, they should be an improvement, and prove
cheaper than those commonly in use.

More recently, grooved and surfaee-er.t rolled iron bars have

182 HORSE-SHOEING.

been introduced with some success for the manufacture of horse-
shoes.

Material.— Machine-made horse-shoes have, unfortunately, never
hitherto proved successful, from the material of which they are
manufactured proving either too soft— when they were too rapidly
worn out— or too hard, when they had a tendency either to break
or induce slipping.

We have remarked how important it is that the shoes worn by
horses should be as light as possible. It is generally a good plan,
if a horse wears his shoes more at one part than another, so that
they do not last a sufficient time, to weld in a small piece of steel
at that place, instead of thickening the shoe and making it
heavier. The latter method, which is that generally adopted to
save time, most frequently defeats its purpose— the increased
weight causing the animal to drag its feet heavily along the
ground instead of lifting them freely.

Lightness and durability can only be attained by employing the
best material.

Nail-holes.— The form of the shoe having been decided upon,
the position and shape of the nail-holes, as well as their number,
have next to be considered.

The shoe ought to be attached by nails to those parts of the
wall where the horn is strongest and toughest. In the fore-foot,
these parts are in front and along the sides to the quarters ; there
the horn becomes narrow and thin, and the nails find less support,
and are nearer to the living textures ; this is more particularly
the case toward the heels, especially the inner one. In the hind-
foot the wall is generally strong towards the quarters and heel.
These facts at once give us an indication as to the best position
for the nail-holes. In the fore-foot, nails can be driven through
the wall around the toe as far as the inside quarter, and a little

HORSE-SHOEING. 133

nearer the heel on the outside. In the hind-foot, they may be
driven around the toe, and even up to the heels with impunity.

The form of the nail-holes is a matter of secondary importan le.
The "fullering," or groove around the border of the English
shoe, though artistic-looking, is a mistake ; it is a waste of lab 5r
and of little, if any, service. What is termed the " stamped
shoe/' is in every way preferable. The square or somewhat oval
cavity, wide at the top and tapering toward the bottom, gives a
secure and solid lodgment to the nail-head; which of course
should tit the cavity accurately ; it does not weaken the shoe, is
easily made, can be placed nearer the outer or inner margin of
the plate as required, and when rilled with the nail is as capable
of resisting wear as any other part of the shoe. It is usually
better to have the nail-holes stamped " coarse" (that is, at some
distance from the outer margin of the shoe) at points correspond-
ing to those parts of the hoof where the wall is strongest ; and
" finer" where the horn is thin and its fibres short.

They should not, as a rule, incline outward or inward, but be
so perforated that the nail-point can take a strong or weak hold
of the wall, according to circumstances. If the hoof be strong,
with plenty of wall at its lower margin, then the holes may be
stamped coarse, in order to take a short but solid hold of it, by
driving the nail obliquely outward (as in Fig. 16, a).

The number of nail-holes through which nails are to be driven
should be as few as possible. Every nail penetrating the wall
of the foot, no matter how skillfully it may be placed, may be
looked upon as a source of injury to it, by splitting asunder or
breaking its fibres. On the form and weight of the shoe will
greatly depend the number of nails required to retain it. With
that I have described as used in hunting, or as modified by me,
and which rests firmly on wall and sole, as well as being as light

184

HORSE-SHOEING.

as is compatible with a certain period of wear, but few nails are
needed. The ordinary heavy shoe, on the contrary, is not only
damaging to the foot, because it rests on such a narrow basis,
but also because its weight and instability necessitates its being
attached by a large number of long thick nails, which do great
harm to the hoof.

Fig. 16.

With care in fitting a properly constructed shoe, and skill in
placing the nails firmly in sound horn, the usual number may be
considerably reduced; so that instead of seven to ten being
required, it will be found that from four to six are equally service-
able, and even these may be of diminished size. For shoes worn
by medium-sized draught horses, I seldom allow more than six
nails in the fore and seven in the hind feet ; more frequently the
former are secured by five nails — three in the outside and two
in the inside branch of the shoe, and the latter by three on
each side.

The fewer the number of nail-holes, the greater is the
necessity for distributing them wide apart ; indeed, it is a
grave blunder to cluster the nails closely together in the hoof,
as they break and weaken the horn, and attach the shoe much
less | securely than if they were spread over a wider surface.

HORSE-SHOEING. 185

Calkins demand the employment of additional nails, from their
liability to become fixed between stones, and also from the
strain they occasion.

It must always be remembered that the retention of a shoe for
a sufficient period does not so much depend upon the number of
nails attaching it, as upon their disposition and upon its exact
fitting- and solid bearing on the wall and sole of the hoof. It
should also be borne in mind that where there is a clip there
ought to be no nail ; lameness is not unfrequently produced by a
tightly-adjusted clip making so much pressure upon the nail and
horn within it as to cause pain aud inflammation.

We have alluded to the various patterns of shoes in use, and
pointed out their defects and recpaireinents. As, in preparing the
hoof, general principles were laid down which are applicable to
every kind of animal — from the race-horse to the mammoth
draught-beast employed in our large manufacturing cities — so in
the shape of the shoe and its essential characteristics general
principles must everywhere prevail. "Where speed is demanded,
as in the race-horse, hunter, etc., lightness and security of foot-
hold on soft or slippery land are the chief desiderata. ; with coach
and other draught animals of less speed, and which are prin-
cipally used on paved roads, heavier shoes are needed to sustain
wear, and they must also afford security ; but while, with the
racer, hunter, and other animals nearly always moving over soft
soil, calkins may be resorted to without much detriment to the
limb and foot, as they sink into the ground, on the shoes of
horses working on hard roads they are objectionable for the
reasons stated ; if they are resorted to, their injurious action
should be averted by employing a toe-piece of the same height.

For the race-horse the narrowest iron rim is sufficient, provided

186 HORSE-SHOEING.

it is strong enough not to twist or bend. The present form of
shoe is not objectionable.

For hunters, hacks, and harness horses, a shoe of the modified
pattern I have described is well adapted; even the ordinary
hunting pattern, but without the calkin on the hind-shoe,
is infinitely preferable to that used for hacks and harness
horses.

Another excellent form of shoe, introduced by Staff Veterinary
Surgeon Thacker, and which has been in use for some time in
Woolwich on riding and harness horses, deserves to be men-
tioned here. It is broader in the cover at the toe than the heels
(Fig. 17) ; at the toe it is slightly curved upward, to remove it
from the greater amount of wear occuring at this part, and also
as a safeguard against horses stumbling. This curve also acts as
.a clip to prevent the shoe moving backward. The foot-surface is

Fig. 17.

•quite flat, and rests on the sole and wall (Fig. 17). The ground-
surface (Fig. 18) is beveled somewhat like the hunting or modi-
fied shoe I have described, with the intention of protecting the
heads of the nails from too much wear, and offering no line or
cavity whereby a stone can lodge or become wedged. The
cover or " web " of the shoe is gradually brought very narrow
.at the heels, its outer rim corresponding exactly with the

HORSE-SHOEING. 187

crust, and the ends of the branches terminating at the heels of
the foot, thus offering protection to the crust only, and without
presenting any surface to be trodden upon or allowing the least
suction in heavy ground.

Fig. 18.

The nail-holes are in the centre of the web, and are directed
outward, by which the nails pass obliquely across the fibres of
the wall and secure a good hold, without approaching the sensi-
tive parts too closely. Three-fourths of an inch is supposed to
be the height necessary to drive the nails.

There are two small clips — one on each side of the curvature at
the toe — and these not only support the diminished number of
nails, but require that the farrier fit the shoe to the circum-
ference of the foot. The smallest-sized nails should be invariably
used, and fitted into each nail-hole before applying the shoe —
the shoe to be light and made of good material. This pattern,
like the modified shoe I have proposed, is suitable for either fore
or hind feet.

It may be mentioned that, with the exception of the two side-
clips at the toe, this shoe is nearly identical in shape with
that recommended by Colonel Fitzwygram in his excellent work
on shoeing.

138 HORSE-SHOEING.

APPLYING THE SHOE.

The foot having been duly prepared, and the form of shoe de-
cided upon, the next step is to apply the shoe to the hoof, and
retain it there by nails.

In ordinary practice the wail of the foot has been only partially
diminished, the remainder of the task being left until the shoe
has to be fitted. This causes the farrier to have a very imperfect
idea of the proper shape or size of the hoof, and he therefore
prepares a shoe which he guesses is about the size, though in
nearly every case it is too small ; and, moulding it according to
his fancy, he proceeds to adjust the foot to it. This is done by
cutting more or less deeply into the wall at the toe, to make the
shoe appear long enough by embedding the clip deeply in its
substance, or " letting it back," as it is termed. The consequence
is, that when the shoe has been nailed on, the basis of support
of the limb is abnormally diminished, a large portion of the wall
of the hoof— its strongest portion— projects beyond the shoe in
front and at the sides, and this is afterward carefully removed by
the rasp, to the great injury to the most essential portion of the
hoof. In every respect, the foot is made to fit the shape of the
shoe, and as this is generally prepared with a view only to neat-
ness or the traditions of routine, the organ suffers, to please the
fancy or fashion of the unreasoning artisan.

By our method, the horn having been reduced to proper
dimensions, the shoe is now made to exactly fit the hoof,
and to follow the outline of its lower face. The part of the
hoof intended to be protected by the iron rim has been made
as level as possible by the rasp, aided a very little, perhaps,
by the knife ; the surface of the shoe destined to rest on this
horny bed has also been made perfectly level and smooth, particu-
larly at the clip or clips, and it is to be correctly fitted. The

HORSE-SHOEING. 189

farrier should so mould the shoe that it be an exact reproduction
in outline of the circumference of the hoof. To make it appear
so when applied, it may be necessary to remove a little of the
wall at the part corresponding to the clip, merely to make the fit
more accurate and not allow any portion of the shoe to project
unduly beyond the horn.

The length of the shoe will vary with the uses to which the
horse is put. For racing, hunting, and other purposes in which
the hind limbs are carried forward to an extreme degree in pro-
pelling the body, the branches of the fore-shoe must on no account
extend beyond the inflection of the wall, otherwise the shoe is
liable to be torn off by the hind-foot, and the horse thrown down.
The end of the branch should also be carefully rounded off and
beveled (as in Fig. 13), so as to leave nothing whatever by which
the hind shoe might catch it.

With harness and draught horses this extreme care in shorten-
ing and beveling the heels is not so necessary ; indeed, in the
heavier and slower paced animals, it is frequently advantageous
to allow the shoes to be rather longer at the heels than the hoof
itself.

As a rule, then, the shoe ought to be wide enough at the toe,
quarters and heels to support the entire thickness of the wall, but
yet not so wide or long as to endanger the opposite limbs by
striking them, or run the chance of being torn off by the other
feet treading upon it ; and it should not interfere with the frog,
or prevent that organ from playing its part in the physiology of
the foot.

The adjustment of the shoe to the exact circumference of the
hoof is usually effected at the same time as the fitting together
of the two surfaces of iron and horn which are to remain in
contact. To render both accurate, the horse should always be
shod at a forge. A hammer and anvil are necessary to mould the

190 HORSE-SHOEING.

heated shoe to the requisite shape ; and it is almost, if not quite,
impossible to obtain a perfectly true and solid adaptation of the
upper face of the shoe to the horn on which it is to rest, within
any reasonable time, unless it be fitted to the hoof in a hot
state.

Hot and Cold Fitting. — For very many years the two systems of
fitting horse-shoes in a cold and a heated condition to the hoofs
have been extensively and severely tested, and the result has
been that cold fitting- is, as a rule, only resorted to when circum-
stances prevent the adoption of the other method, or when the
owner of a horse, imagining that the hot shoe injures the foot,,
incurs the risks attending a bad fit to guard against his imaginary
evil.

It is needless, in a brief essay like the present, to enter into
a relation of the observations and experiments which have estab-
lished the undoubted and great superiority of what is termed
"hot" to ffcold" fitting. These will be found noticed at some
length in a work recently published by me, entitled " Horseshoes
and Horseshoeing." It may be sufficient to state that the evils
supposed to result from fitting the shoes hot to the hoofs are
purely chimerical. It is true, when the sole is excessively mutil-
ated should the farrier keep the heated shoe too long in contact
with it, injury would doubtless follow, but this accident is so
exceedingly rare as to be scarcely ever known, even in forges
where shoeing is performed in the most objectionable manner.
The ill effects imagined to arise from hot shoeing can easily be
traced to the operal ion of other causes, not the least of which is
the fashion of paring the lower face of the foot.

The chief objections to cold shoeing are the want of solidity,
the foot being made to fit the shoe, and the process being more
difficult and expensive.

The defective solidity is patent to every one who has had any

HORSE-SHOEING. 191

experience in the matter. It is impossible to level the ends of
the horn-fibres so accurately that they will all rest evenly on the
surface of the iron ; so those which are most prominent soon
giving way to pressure, the bed of the shoe is altered, and this,
becoming loose, is either lost, or we have projecting clenches.
And even should the fibres be made perfectly level, wet softens
them, causing them to become pulpy and shorter, by which
means the seat of the shoe is impaired and the nails lose their
firm hold of the wall. Ample experience on active service, as
well as that gathered at home during peace, has demonstrated
the instability resulting from cold fitting.

Owing to the increased trouble and loss of time incurred by
this method in attempts to make the shoe fit somewhat accurately,
but few. farriers can afford or are willing to resort to it. Hence,
when it is practised, if the shoe is at all like the foot, it is put on,
and rasp and knife insure the hoof being made to fit it. This
proceeding is very injurious.

In hot fitting we have none of these objections. The shoe is
very readily adapted to the foot ; it is more equally applied, and
rests solidly on the hoof, so that the nails are not broken or
displaced by the shoe becoming loose ; in fine, there- is a more
intimate contact between the iron and the surface of the horn.
The very fact of burning or fusing the ends of the fibres insures
a solid, durable bed which cannot be obtained otherwise, as this
destroys the spongy absorbent properties of the horn and renders
it eminently calculated to withstand the influence of moisture.
The effects produced on horn by the hot iron have been compared
to those of fire on pieces of wood whose ends have been super-
ficially carbonized before being buried in the ground. Every one
knows that this operation contributes to the preservation of the
wood by preserving it from the action of humidity.

Horn is a very slow conductor of heat, and it requires a very

192 HORSE-SHOEING.

prolonged application of the hot shoe to affect the shoe to any
considerable depth. Three minutes' burning of the lower face
of the sole has been found necessary to produce any indication of
increase of temperature by the thermometer on its upper surface.
It is never required that the shoe should be applied longer than
a few seconds.

The hot shoe, in fusing the horn with which it comes in con-
tact, imprints itself like a seal in melted sealing-wax, and in this
way the two surfaces of foot and shoe exactly coincide ; while no
matter how expert the workman may be in using his tools to level
the horn in a cold state, he can never do it so quickly or so com-
pletely as may be done by making an impression with the heated
shoe, and consequently establishing between the lower margin of
the hoof and the shoe an exact coaptation.

It may be added that, when the surface of the horn has been
softened by the action of caloric, the nails enter it more readily,
the clips and inequalities are more easily embedded, and when it
recovers its habitual consistency after cooling, the union between
it and the metallic parts which are in contact becomes all the
more intimate because of the slight contraction that follows the
expansion produced by the heat. Under these conditions, the
horn contracts on the shanks of the nails, and retains them most
securely.

All the highest veterinary authorities who have studied the
subject are unanimous in recommending hot fitting in preference
to cold ; the latter is only j ustifiable when it is impossible to
adopt the former. The red-hot shoe at once disposes of those
inequalities which cannot be discovered, or removed by tools ;
and it shows the workman at a glance the bearing of the shoe on
the hoof, as well as the imprint on the nail-holes. Without being
reheated, any alteration can be readily and at once effected in
moulding the shoe to the shape of the two.

HORSE-SHOEING. 193

The whole surface of the shoe intended to be in contact with
the horn should be distinctly impressed on the contour of the
hoof, so as to insure the closest and most accurate intimacy be-
tween the two ; and this carbonized surface should not be inter-
fered with on any account, except by the rasp, which is only to be
employed in removing any sharpness or inequality on the extreme
edge of the wall that may have been caused in fittino-.

It is necessary to bear in mind that the shoe should be fitted at
a red heat. Its application then need only be very brief, and it is
far more effective in producing a solid, level surface ; it ought not
to be applied at a black heat. Should the margin of the hoof not
be sufficiently levelled by the rasp before the application of the
hot shoe, a slight contact of the latter will show the inequalities,
and these may then be removed by rasp or knife. On no occasion
ought the shoe to remain longer on the hoof than is necessary to
produce a solid, perfectly level surface.

The Nails.— The shoe having been made to fit the hoof exactly,
is cooled and finished with the file. It is then ready to be at-
tached to the hoof by nails. These should not be unnecessarily
large, as is too often the case, but well proportioned to the size of
the shoe. The heads should only be sufficient to fill the nail-
holes when subjected to two or three smart blows of the hammer,
and the shanks thin. It is scarcely necessary to add that the
nails, like the shoe, should always be made of the best iron.

Driving the Nails.— In driving the nails into the hoof, every one

should be made to pass through sound horn. It is a mistake to

place them where the wall is broken or perforated by previous

nails, as this only makes bad worse ; and care should be taken to

direct each nail so accurately that it may make its exit at the

desired point in the face of the wall at once. Careless or unskillful
M

194 HORSE-SHOEING.

driving of the nails necessitates their being withdrawn several
times before they are properly implanted, and as each nail, how-
ever carefully it may be placed in the wall at the first attempt, is
a source of injury by splitting asunder and perforating the fibres,
it follows that when several attempts have to be made the injury
is proportionately increased.

A short thick hold of the wall is better than a long thin one.
If possible, no more horn should be included within the grasp of
the nail than is likely to be removed at the following shoeing.
By this means the wall is constantly maintained sound.

A foot allowed to grow strong in the manner I have described,
will suffer no inconvenience in having the nails driven tightly
into the shoe and hoof after they have been placed in the wall.

Where the hoof is thin, as at the quarters and heels of the fore-
foot, smaller and more slender nails must be used, and these must
be less tightly driven. The toe nails should be first hammered
home firmly, then the quarter and heel nails lightly. Every nail
should form a part of the shoe, and the head should barely pro-
ject above it ; when all are solidly disposed, they must be tightly
" drawn up " at the ends (the points having been twisted off
previously) by means of the hammer and pincers, using the same
graduated degree of force as in driving them home.

Conclusion of the Operation. — Nothing then remains ts be done
but to bend down or " clench " the portion of nail so drawn up on
the face of the wall. This should be accomplished by shortening
the fragment to a proper length by the rasp, so as to leave just
enough to turn over ; the rasp also removes the small barb of
horn raised in drawing up the nail, but without making a notch,
and then the clench is laid down evenly. No more rasping or
cutting should be allowed on any pretext whatever.

HORSE-SHOEING. 195

Rasping. — Very different to this treatment is that practised
in nearly every forge, where the front of the hoof is rasped most
unmercifully as high as the coronet. Indeed, in the majority of
books on farriery it is recommended that, though the wall
ought not to be rasped above the clenches, this must be done
below them; evidently ignorant of the fact that nearly as
much, if not more, harm is done by this operation below than
than above these rivets.

Those who study what I have said concerning the structure
of the wall of the hoof will readily enough understand the
amount of injury inflicted on the hoof by this rasping.

Over the whole external face of this part there appears to be
spread a fine translucent horn, which looks like a varnish, whose
office in all probability is to prevent undue drying of the hoof
and consequent brittleness. Immediately beneath this are the
dense resisting fibres of the wall, which are intended to resist
wear, and are best adapted to support a shoe, through the
medium of the nails ; in fact, they are the fibres which ought to
perform this duty, as beneath them, toward the inside of the
wall, the horn rapidly becomes soft and spongy, and more like
the pith of a rush.

In consequence of the farrier having neglected to remove a
sufficient amount of horn from the lower margin of the wall,
when preparing the foot for the shoe, or having nailed on a plate
too small for its natural circumference, a large piece of the solid
material projects beyond the shoe, particularly in front and at
the sides. This is torn away by the rasp, after the clenches have
been laid down ; and when this has been done what do we see ?
The wall of the foot, instead of coming down from the coronet to
the shoe in all its integrity and evenness of slope, as soon as it
reaches the clenches is chopped abruptly downward, giving the
foot a stump or club-like appearance, and greatly diminishing
the extent of its bearing surface. The greatest evil, however, is

100 HORSE-SHOEING.

the loss of the strong, tough horn, whose presence is so necessary
to protect the lower margin of the hoof and afford support and
hold to the nails.

In consequence of its removal, these having nothing to retain
them but the thin pellicle of soft horn remaining, and this being
so weak, and exposed to influences it was never intended to
encounter, quickly dries up, shrivels, becomes brittle, and cracks
or breaks away in flakes. Then we have a hoof deprived of its
horn, and in as unnatural a condition as can well be imagined •*
it has been so barbarously mutilated as to require the greatest
care next shoeing to place the nails in a shred of sound horn ;
the operation of rasping and curtailment being repeated each
time increases the evil, and should a shoe chance to come off on
the road — an accident, it may be inferred, extremely likely to
happen — great damage will be done to the pared sole, and the
thin, brittle, slit-up wall, and in all probability, after a few yards
traveling, the animal will be lamed.

The morbid desire to make fine work of shoeing, when the
horse was first shod, ends in the greatest amount of skill and
labor being required to continue it, and keep the animal to some
extent fit for service, though with deformed feet, seriously
damaged horn, and perhaps great suffering.

The truth of this can be verified by a casual glance at the
hoofs of almost every horse that passes us in town or country,
though perhaj)s it is most conspicuous in town-shod horses.

One of the most serious results of this excessive mutilation
of the lower part of the wall is the production of a chronic
form of laminitis, marked by slight subsidence half-way down
the front of the foot, and to a less degree at the side, with an
abrupt, rounded protrusion of the [part that is always exposed
to rasping.

This deformity, which causes pain and altered gait in the

HORSE-SHOEING.

197

majority of cases arises from the irritation caused to the sensitive
parts within by the removal of their natural protection, but
more particularly from the fact that the nails, to retain the shoe,
must be driven through a sufficient amount of soft horn, and this
brings them so near the living parts that they press upon them
to such a degree as to set up an acute or subacute inflammation
that leads to this deformity and its attendant lameness.

Cases of this description will be found to be by no means
uncommon among the horses in our streets, and for many years
I have been able to trace the evil effects of the practice from
their commencement until the animal was a hopeless cripple.

When the coachman, groom, or farrier's fancy causes the rasp
to be carried above the clenches to the top of the hoof, then of
course the injury is greatly aggravated.

The thin, semi-translucent horn that extends in a somewhat
wide, whitish-colored band around the upper part of the foot, is
chiefly intended by Nature, I think, to protect the fibres of the
wall from the effects of external physical influences, such as heat
and dryness, while they are being secreted, or so immature as to
be incapable of resisting these influences— for it will be remem-
bered that the wall is formed at the coronet, and this covering
guarantees not only the integrity of the newly-made horn-tubes,
but also maintains the secreting vessels that enter them in a
healthy condition, and competent to supply fresh material for

The destruction of this band and the rasping of the fibres
beneath it, is detrimental to the healthy secretion of the wall-
fibres, and leads to the same result that paring the sole was shown
to do— shrinking of the horn-tubes containing the tufts of vessels,
wasting of these, a diminished supply of horny material in con-
sequence, and a thin, brittle wall that scarcely appears to grow
down at all in depth or thickness, and barely allows a shoe to be

19S HORSE-SHOEING.

attached to it. Sand-crack, and other diseased conditions of this
part of the hoof, are mainly due to this cause.

After applying the shoe in the manner we have described, and
laying down the clenches evenly on the wall of the hoof, no more
requires to be done, unless, perhaps, it be to round a little more
the edge of the narrow shreds of horn that may project on each
side of the clip, and thus prevent their liability to split. The
angle of the face of the hoof should never be interfered with
after the shoe is nailed on, but should be the same from top to
bottom as in the natural state. This is a matter of great importance.
Too much stress cannot be laid upon the preservation of the horn
of the hoof in its integrity. No amount of rasping or artificial
treatment can give the hoof the beautiful polish it has in its
natural state.

Laying doivn Clips. — At this stage it is usual to apply the clip
or clips more exactly and evenly to the hoof before completing the
operation of shoeing ; and even this apparently trifling matter
demands care. With gradually decreasing blows of the shoeing-
hammer, each clip should be applied close to the hoof, commencing
at the bottom, where it springs from the shoe, and ascending to
its point, Clips should never be driven tight into the hoof. This
is injurious, and may induce disease.

When, in due course, the period arrives for re-shoeing — usually
in a month or five weeks — the hoofs require to be reduced to their
normal dimensions ; the rules we have laid down for guidance
are to be followed out in the most scrupulous manner. The old
shoe is to be gently removed from the foot by carefully cutting-
away the clenches with the buffer ; the pincers are then to be
inserted toward the heel, between the hoof and shoe, and the
latter prized steadily upward from and across the foot. When by
this means the nails have been sufficiently sprung, they may be

HORSE-SHOEING. 199

withdrawn one by one. Particular care must be taken that no
clenches or broken nails remain in the hoof , as these are likely to
turn the points of the succeeding nails into the living parts of the
foot.

Such, then, on the one hand, is shoeing as it is usually prac-
ticed, to the great injury of the horse ; and, on the other hand,
shoeing as it ought to be performed, so as to maintain the comfort
and efficiency of this noble and invaluable animal.

It will be observed that no claim is here made to any wonderful
novelty or discovery in the way of a shoe that will answer every
purpose, and keep every horse wearing it in a state of health.
Such an invention must be left to those whose practical experi-
ence is of the most limited character, and who fancy that the evils
of shoeing are concentrated in the metal plate alone. It may be
sufficient to say, in this place, that, so far as the comfort, utility,
and well-being of the horse are concerned, the preservation of the
foot in health by abstaining from mutilating and deforming it
with knife and rasp, is of the highest importance. If this be
done, the shoe most appropriate for certain purposes demands
some attention, but is really a matter of minor consideration.

Preserve the hoof intact and strong, and the animal will travel
long and soundly in a very uncouth foot armature ; pare and rasp
it according to " improved principles/' and the most labored,
expensive, and artistic device in the form of a shoe will not pre-
vent discomfort, unsoundness, disease, and premature useless-
ness.

At an early period of my professional career, I was much dis-
satisried with the results of shoeing as it is practised in ordinary
forges, and with the unreasonableness of the fashion of depriving
the foot of its natural and most efficient protection, and was soon

200 HORSE-SHOEING.

led to perceive that a vast majority of the horses so treated soon
became deformed and lame in their feet; while some of the dis-
eases occurring higher up in the limbs were likewise due to this
cause.

The rational method here inculcated was then adopted,, and
now for many years the only preparation the foot has received
for the shoe has been levelling the wall, in conformity with the
direction of the limb and foot, and removing as much of its margin
as will restore it to its natural length, leaving the sole, frog,
bars, and heels in all their integrity. Such has been the treat-
ment of the hoofs of the horses under my care in various parts of
the world, and in far more trying circumstances at times, so far
as shoeing is concerned, than are likely to occur in the regular
work of towns, and so strong were the hoofs, as a rule, such solid
blocks of horn did they appear, that when a shoe was, by some
rare chance, lost on a journey, there was no dan^or whatever to
be apprehended from marching the horse ten, twenty, or even
thirty miles, without it. Horses have never been pricked in
nailing, and foot diseases, it may be said, have been all but un-
known. The roughest roads and the sharpest stones can be
traveled over with impunity. Nearly every hoof might be taken
as a model, and be pronounced as perfect as before the animal
was shod, many years previously.

This abstinence from paring and rasping, it will be seen, very
naturally lessens the time and labor required in the ordinary
method ; indeed, nothing can be simpler than the conservative
principle of shoeing, and this simplicity can be effectively carried
into practice with one-half the instruction and toil required for
the popular mode.

Other methods of shoeing have been devised from time to time,
and may be briefly referred to here.

To diminish the weight and permit a portion of the posterior part

HORSE-SHOEING. 201

of the foot to come in direct contact with the ground along with
the frog, a three-quarter shoe is often applied — the portion of
iron extending from the inside quarter to the point of the heel
being cut off, and the shoe at this part thinned a little. The
horn left unprotected is never interfered with. This is an excel-
lent shoe for saddle and carriage, and even draught horses, which
may be employed on the worst roads while wearing it. For feet
that have suffered very much from the effects of rasping and
paring, and which are liable to have bruised heels (or corns), its
use is attended with the greatest benefit.

The same may be said of " tips" or half-shoes. An unreason-
able prejudice appears to exist against the use of these light,
short plates ; but if they are applied in appropriate cases, there
can be no doubt whatever that they are entitled to a far larger
share of attention than they have yet received. Their very
limited employment hitherto may have arisen from the imperfect
manner in which they have been used. They protect those parts
of the wall most exposed to damage by wear, extending around
the toe and reaching no farther than the quarters ; while the
heels and frog, when left unpared and unrasped, are strong
enough to meet all demands made upon them, at the same time
they are not deprived of their physiological functions.

In addition to these considerations, the diminution in the
weight of the shoe is a matter of some importance. Of course,
the three-quarters shoe and tip are only required for the fore-
feet ; the hind-feet shoes, so long as they are level, are not over
heavy, and do not wound the opposite limbs, may be of the
ordinary pattern. On this difference between the management
of the fore and hind foot we cannot too much insist. The fore-
foot is particularly disposed to disease and injury ; the hind-foot
is wonderfully exempt. So much is this the case, indeed, that
the proper management of the first is all important, while the

ZUZ HORSE-SHOEING.

other requires but little attention. The reason of this is due to
the fact that the horizontal body, and long, heavy neck and head
of the horse, cause the largest proportion of the weight to fall
upon the front pair of supporting columns, and, through them,
upon the feet ; the fore-limbs are those most concerned in sup-
porting weight, the hind ones in propelling the body forward.
Hence the necessity for allowing as much of the lower face of the
fore-foot as possible to come in contact with the ground ; and
hence the prevalence of disease in it when improper shoeing
limits its points of contact to the narrowest dimensions.

Various Methods of Shoeing. — Another form of shoe is that
commonly known as the " bar shoe" — a ring or annular plate of
metal which increases the surface of contact by resting, to a
large extent, on the frog, and allowing that important body to
participate in weight-bearing ; in this way it also relieves the
heels when these are weak or injured. It is a very useful shoe,
but the additional weight given to it by the bar, and the extra
strain on the nails retaining it to the hoof, are drawbacks.

To apply a shoe in such a manner as to allow the frog to receive
a due amount of pressure has always been the aim of those who
have made the horse's foot an object of careful study. Even with
the ordinary shoe, if it be not too thick nor garnished with
calkins, the frog, if unmutilated, in the majority of cases will
rest upon the ground for nearly the whole of its length, and
sustain beneficial wear. Nearly every one of the horses at
present in my charge, though shod with the army regulation shoe
— a very defective model — have their frogs in this condition ;
while all the private horses wearing the modified shoe I have
described, exhibit the frog resting for the whole of its length and
breadth on the ground.

HORSE-SHOEING. 203

By this object, with others of importance, is perfectly attained
in what has been designated the " periplantar shoe and method
of shoeing," introduced by Veterinary Surgeon Charlier, of Paris.
Leave the hoof entirely in a natural condition, so far as frog,
sole and wall are concerned, and imbed a narrow rim of iron, no
thicker than the wall, around the lower circumference of the
foot — that exposed to wear — like the iron heel of a man's boot,
and we obtain an idea of what the periplantar method of shoeing
really is.

The principle of this method of shoeing is, physiologically,
perfectly correct. Knowing that the horse's foot is admirably
constructed to perform certain definite functions, and that the
hoof in ordinary condition is designed to act as the medium
through which the most important of these are carried out, but
that its circumference is liable to be broken away and worn
when nudely exposed, we have only to substitute for a certain
portion of this perishable horn an equivalent portion of more
durable metal, and the hoof is secured from damage by wear,
while its natural functions remain unimpaired.

This novel method of shoeing has attracted so much attention,
and has in many instances proved so beneficial and worthy of
adoption, so far as my experience goes, that I venture to describe,
as briefly as possible, the way in which it is carried into execu-
tion in the forge.

The sole and frog, as well as the bars, are left unpared. The
crust or wall is bevelled off at the edge by the rasp, and by
means of a special knife with a movable guide* a groove is
made along this bevelled edge to receive the shoe. This groove
is made a little shallower than the thickness of the sole, and
slightly narrower than the thickness of the van, not ex-

* A knife of this kind which I invented, is manufactured and sold by Messrs.
Arnold & Son, Instrument Makers, West Smithfield, London.

204 HORSE-SHOEING.

tending beyond the white line separating the sole from the
wall (Fig. 19).

Fig. 19.

Into this groove is fitted the shoe. This is a narrow, but
somewhat deep band of iron (or, as now, a mixture of iron and
steel), narrower at the top than the bottom, and forged in such
a manner that its front surface follows the slope of the foot. It
is perforated by from four to six oval nail-holes of small size,
and if necessary may be provided with a clip at the toe. Its
upper inner edge is rounded by the file, to prevent it pressing
too much against the angle of the sole, and the ends of the
branches are narrow and beveled off toward the ground
(Fig. 20).

The nails are very small, and have a conical head and neck
(Fig. 21). They must be of the best quality.

It is best to fit the shoe in a hot state, as it must have a
level bed and follow exactly the outline of the wall. After
it has been fitted, it is advisable to remove, by a small draw-
ing-knife, a little of the horn from the angle of the groove in
the hoof, to correspond with the rounded inner edge of the

HORSE-SHOEINQ.

205

shoe. This insures a proper amount of space between the latter
and the soft horn at the margin of the pedal bone.

In strong hoofs the shoe is almost entirely buried in the groove ;
but in those which have the soles flat or convex, with low heels,
it is not safe to imbed it so deeply.

The application of the hot shoe in fitting should not extend
beyond a very few seconds.

Fig. 20. Fig. 21.

The shoe is nailed to the hoof in the ordinary manner (Fig. 22).
For saddle and light carriage-horses, I have usually found four
nails — two on each side — for each shoe sufficient. These should
be placed wide apart at the toe and rather close to the heel
(Fig. 23, a, b). Every nail must be driven in sound horn, other-
wise the shoe, being so narrow, may get the branch bent out, and
nothing more is needed than to lay the clenches down evenly on the
wall. No rasping is required. When the shoe is attached to the
foot, we then perceive that a portion of the sole and bars, and
the whole of the frog, meet the ground as in the unshod state
(Fig. 23).

The great advantages of this method of shoeing consist in its
simplicity, when farriers have been made to understand it ; its-

206

HORSE-SHOEING.

placing the hoof in a natural condition, so far as its ground-face
s concerned ; the small number and size of the nails required

Fig. 22.
to retain it ; the lightness of the shoe, and the security it gives
to the horse in progression.

Since ts introduction by M. Charlier, I have tried this method

Fig. 23.
on a large number of horses of various sizes, and which
have been employed for hunting/; road, carriage, and draught,

HORSE-SHOEING. 207

and am perfectly satisfied that it is a valuable accessory mode of*
defending and preserving the hoofs, and remedying their diseases
or defects. It cannot "be applied indiscriminately to every foot,
and to make the groove in the hoof and fit the shoe accurately,
requires some care. When the horn and metal are combined in
this way, it is somewhat astonishing for how long a period a very
light rim will sustain wear even on hard roads.

I have not tried the shoe on the hind-feet, because I do not
think it so well adapted for them ; as before mentioned, the front-
feet only demand all our attention.

WINTEE SROEINQ.

In such a variable climate as ours, it is not an easy matter to
provide economically and successfully for the occurrence of frost
and snow during the winter months, so far as shoeing in con-
cerned. Some winters are so mild that there is no necessity for
making any difference in the shoe, while others are so severe, and
the roads are covered with ice for such a long period, that special
appliances must be resorted to if the services of horses are to be
made at all available.

To be generally useful, these appliances must be cheap and
simple.

The quickest, cheapest, but at the same time least durable of
these, is the " frost-nail." This is nothing more than the ordi-
nary horse-shoe nail, with its head flattened gradually to a thin
edge. Two or three of the nails are withdrawn from each side of
the shoe, and replaced by the frost-nails. The heads may be
flattened in different directions, according to circumstancess.
Sometimes the heads are of steel, when of course they are more
lasting. For short journeys, frost-nails are useful and easily
available ; but as they only last for a brief period, and as their
frequent removal injures the hoof to some extent, they are only

208 HORSE-SHOEING.

to be used when the services of the horse are not likely to be in
great demand for any length of time, or when the frost promises
to be very transient. They are best adapted for saddle and car-
riage-horses. To prevent injury to the hoof, and at the same
time to obtain all the advantages of frost-nails, I have often, in
the winter-season, had extra holes punched in the shoes — one at
the extremity of each heeL and one on each side of the toe.
These nail-holes were large, and were stamped so obliquely out-
ward that the frost-nails, when the occasion required them, could
be passed through them and lapped firmly over the edge of the
shoe without interfering with the hoof. They may be made alto-
gether of soft steel, the heads alone being tempered. I have
found this plan most convenient and effective, as the hoof and
shoe are not disturbed, and the nails can be renewed as often as
may be necessary.

The usual plan is to remove the shoes from the hoofs and give
them sharpened calkins, and it may be toe-pieces also sharp.
This is not a good fashion if it has to be often repeated, as the
hoofs are damaged by the frequent nailing, the horses are apt to
be lamed, and the shoes to become loose. It is for the time being,
however, very effective. When the calks and toe-pieces are only
made of iron, and if the ground be not covered with a sufficient
layer of snow to protect them to some extent, they soon become
blunted, and the shoes then require to be taken off and the pro-
cess repeated. To remedy this, if time permits, it is an excellent
plan to weld in the calkin, or toe-piece, or, on the face of the
shoe, a piece of steel (Figs. 24, 25 a), which, when sharpened and
tempered, lasts a very considerable time.

In sharpening the calkins, regard must be had to their situ-
ation— that on the outside heel may be flattened across the branch
of the shoe (Fig. 26), but that on the inside must be drawn as

HORSE-SHOEING.

20!)

much as possible from the outer niargiu of the branch (Fig. 27),
in order to avoid treads and wounds to the opposite foot.

Fig. 24.

Fig. 25.

As a rule, it is better that toe-pieces of the same height as the
calkins be used on all shoes, to keep the foot and limb from
being injured.

The Canadian shoe, made of steel, concave on the ground-sur-
face, with the concavity forming a sharp edge on the margin, is

^^^ZZJZZZ

Fig. 26.

Fig. 27.

very useful when there is a thick layer of ice with snow.

But perhaps the most useful and expeditious method of making
the horse useful on ice-covered roads is by the adoption of the
screw studs. For these, each new shoe, at the commencement of
the winter, has a circular hole punched at the heels and another
at the toe. This is screwed, and into it is fitted, for ordinary
wear, a flat-headed stud (Fig. 28), which is turned in with a
wrench. These studs last for some time, and preserve the shoe
from wear. When worn nearly to the level of the shoe, they are
removed and replaced by new ones. Should frost set in sud-
denly, the flat-headed studs have only to be removed by the
groom when the horse is required, and sharp steel ones sub-
stituted. This can be done in a few minutes.
N

210 HORSE-SHOEING.

The usual shape of the sharp stud is that of a wedge, the
screwed portion being much smaller than that projecting beyond
the shoe. This is a faulty conformation, which leads to the stud
frequently working itself loose and falling out, or breaking off at
the neck, leaving the screwed portion in the shoe.

For some years I have remedied this defect by employing steel
frost-studs of a conical or pyramidal shape, and having the
portion screwed into the shoe as thick as that projecting from it
(Fig. 29). This pattern is not at all liable to turn round and fall
out on meeting the ground ; while, being the same thickness
throughout, there is no check at the screw to weaken the stud ;
consequently, it does not break if carefully forged and tempered.

Fig. 29.

Of all the appliances designed to enable horses to travel safely
on ice, without taking them to the forge, or requiring the services
of the farrier, none have stood the test of trial so satisfactorily as
this screw stud. I have experimented with all the recent inven-
tions, but have found them either too complicated or expensive—
not fit for severe work, or else only adapted for shoes of one
pattern.

SHOEING OF DEFECTIVE LIMBS.

Shoeing is a powerful auxiliary in the hands of a competent
farrier for remedying the natural defects which are not unfre-
quently observed in the position of the limbs and feet of horses ;
while with the scientific veterinary surgeon it is no less a most

HORSE-SHOEING 211

potent aid in curing or palliating certain maladies or deformities
of a special character.

Perhaps the most frequent defects the farrier has to contend
with, are turning out or turning in the toe of the foot ; both of
which are not only unsightly, but are productive of more or less
injury to the limb from the unequal manner in which some of its
parts have then to sustain the weight of the body.

To rectify the leg or foot when the toe turns outward, the hoof
should be levelled as before described, the margin of the wall at
the outside toe and back nearly to the quarter being well reduced
and rounded. The clip is to be drawn up nearer to the inside
than the middle of the toe ; the shoe to be fitted close to the
outside and quarter, but the inside, from the quarter to the heel,
should be more full than usual. In the course of several shoeings,
by this reduction of the wall at the outside of the hoof and the
fitting of the shoe, a most notable improvement will be effected.

When the toe is turned inward, precisely the reverse treatment
must be followed ; the inside toe must be reduced, the clip of the
shoe formed near the outside toe, and the shoe itself fitted close
at the inside toe, but wide at the outside. In both cases the
shoes ought to be of the same thickness throughout.

" Cutting," or striking and wounding the inner side of the leg
with the opposite foot, is sometimes a cause of much annoyance
It may be due to weakness, fatigue, or to a sudden change in the
manner of shoeing ; in which cases it is only temporary. But it
may also arise from malformed limbs or faulty action, and these
defects may be so exaggerated as to be scarcely, if at all, remedied
by shoeing alone.

The usual part of the hoof with which the horse strikes the
opposite limb, is the inside toe or quarter. Whichever of these
regions it may be, the hoof must continue to be levelled at right

212 HORSE-SHOEING.

angles to the direction of the pastern, and a shoe equally thick
throughout applied, the only difference between it and the
ordinary shoe being the removal of a portion of the iron from the
margin at a point corresponding to the portion that causes the
injury to the opposite limb ; or the shoe, instead of being nar-
rowed in the branch at this part, may be straightened, so as to
lie within the hoof. IN o nails are to be inserted here ; they may
be placed in front of, and behind the striking portion — at the toe
and heel. The hoof, after the application of the shoe, may then
be reduced at the quarter with the rasp, to diminish its convexity,
and thus avert " cutting" or striking.

The periplantar method of shoeing is well adapted for horses
that 'f cut."

Some horses have the awkward habit of lying like a cow with
one or both fore-legs doubled up at the knee, and the elbow
resting on the heel of the foot. Should the ordinary shoes be
worn, it almost inevitably follows that the ends of the branches
pressing upon the elbows will cause the formation of a large,
unsightly tumour, which may in time become an abcess or ulcer-
ate. The prevention of this is in the hands of the farrier, who
has only to shorten and smoothly round the extremities of the
shoe, so as to keep them within the hoof. Most frequently it is
the inside heel, in which case a three-quarter shoe at once
remedies the evil.

GENEEAL MANAGEMENT OF THE HOESE'S
EOOT

After what has been said with regard to the management of
the horse's foot in shoeing, there is but little to add concerning
its general treatment; as shoeing influences more or less,
for good or for evil, the general condition of that organ, and

HORSE-SHOEING. 213

renders its ordinary management either a matter of much or
trifling moment.

When it has been robbed of its horn by the farrier, and
brought to such an artificial and abnormal state as we have
indicated, then its preservation is anything like a healthy or
efficient condition is a matter of no small difficulty, and appears
sometimes to demand very curious and often by no means reason-
able practices on the part of the groom.

The most common are : applying to the face of the wall tar,
oil, fish-oil, or advertised mixtures of various kinds to make the
horn grow, prevent brittleness, cure diseases, etc.; and to the
sole plates of leather, bolsters of tow steeped in tar, filthy appli-
cations of cow-dung, mud or clay, and other matters.

It is scarcely necessary to say that to the unpared and un-
rasped hoof these are not only unnecessary, but some of them
even positively hurtful. Oil, for instance, not only renders the
wall brittle, but loosens then nails ; while cow -dung, from the
ammonia it contains, destroys the frogs.

The unmutilated hoof is easily kept in health. All it requires
is keeping eool, and moistening occasionally with cold water
during hot weather or after severe exertion. When a journey
has been long continued and severe, the horse should not be
immediately put into a stable, but ought to be walked gently
about until the circulation of blood in the feet has had time to
accommodate itself to the altered conditions of rest. By this
means iaminitis (inflammation of the feet) is averted.

In washing the hoofs a water brush should not be employed,
but a soft sponge, with a view to prevent the translucent horn on
the front of the wall being destroyed.

The sides and clefts of the frog may be cleaned out occa-

214 HORSE-SHOEING.

siortally with a blunt picker, though if sound this is scarcely
required.

Nothing more is needed, so far as the every-day stable manage-
ment of the foot is concerned, except to caution the groom
against cutting away the hair immediately above the coronet, as
this acts like a thatch in preserving the frog-band at its com-
mencement from the effects of perspiration and moisture.

Much harm is done to horses' legs and feet by the somewhat
cruel custom of keeping them, while in the stable, constantly
tied up in one position in stalls with sloping floors. This fashion
is not only entirely opposed to the animal's natural habits — for
the horse loves to move about and change his attitude — but the
limbs and feet, more especially the front ones, are, instead of
being rested, greatly fatigued ; and this brings about alterations
which may be none the less serious because they are not imme-
diate in their effects.

A. loose box, even if no larger than a stall, with a level floor, is
infinitely preferable, and by all means to be commended to those
who place some value on the soundness of body, eyesight, and
limbs of their horses, as well as on their comfort.

STREETS AND ROADS.

The roads over which horses travel have also much influence
for good or evil on the condition of the feet and legs. In the
majority of the towns and cities in Great Britain, it would most
certainly appear that considerations for the safety, comfort, or
efficiency of the thousands of horses in daily use were altogether
lost sight of or neglected in constructing the public thorough-
fares.

Masses of the hardest and closest-grained stone are laid
down in most streets in such a fashion that they seem as if pur-
posely designed to afford an insecure foothold, and present the

HORSE-SHOEING. 215

horse's strength being profitably utilized. These paved streets —
always a source of danger to the animals — while hindering them
from employing their force to the best advantage, are also par-
ticularly injurious to the legs and feet, from the incessant efforts
made to maintain a footing. More especially is this the case in
wet wether, when they are covered with greasy mud, and in
summer when their dry, smooth surface becomes leaded. It is
needless to say, that no kind of metal defence to the hoof will for
many days insure a firm foot-hold on such roads; and nothing
but a metal defence has ever been found suitable to the horse's
foot.

Every device has been tried to meet the demands for traveling
with safety on such paved streets, and none have proved success-
ful. Nor is it at all likely that future inventions will meet these
demands ; the basaltic or granitic surface, perfectly smooth, and
offering a most insecure surface for fixing the foot during move-
ment, is not at all adapted for horse traffic.

From the durability of these roads, they may be, to those who
have to pay for their construction and maintenance, more econo-
mical than others on which horses can journey with ease and
without risk of falling down ; but they are far from being econo-
mical to those whose carriages and wagons traverse them. A
portion of the horse's motive power is devoted to maintaining his
foothold, and the fear induced by this insecurity operates against
what remains being applied as profitably as it ought to be. So
that less is gained in the economy of construction and durability,
and in the easier traction of vehicles, than is lost in the injury
done to the horse's extremities, and the waste of power required
to maintain the equilibrium.

Even more injurious to feet and limbs is the barbarous,
slovenly, and stupid method prevailing in this country of repair-

216 HORSE-SHOEING.

nig macadamized roads — or what are intended for them — by
depositing a heap of angular stones in a loose, rugged layer of
uncertain depth, and compelling horses and carriages to travel
over them until they are imbedded in a very irregular manner in
the soil beneath them. Such a practice is not only extremely
short-sighted on the part of those who make or repair roads in
this manner — as these roads can neither be durable nor very ser-
viceable— but also deserves the severest censure as most cruel and
destructive to horses. Not only is the labor in drawing a carriage
over such a surface immensely increased, and the horse's strength
thereby expended, but the unstable footing afforded by the loose
masses of stone throws a great strain in every direction upon the
legs and feet, and not unfrequently the animal is thrown down*
and gets seriously injured or blemished for life.

If the hoofs chance to be pared and rasped according to the
the groom or farrier's " improved principles," then the conse-
quences are greatly aggravated.

Legislation should be appealed to, to put an end to such a.
disgraceful method of road-making or mending, which is only
worthy of the most uncivilized country.

The best mode of constructing and repairing our public
thoroughfares and highways, with a view not only to economy,
but to the safety and comfort of horses, is a matter that deserves
serious attention.

Taken in connection with our subject, it is one that cannot be
overlooked. We may preserve and defend the horse's foot to the
best of our ability in our forges and stables, but if the roads over
which he travels are not adapted to his employment, our exertions
on his behalf can only be partially successful.

HORSE-SHOEING. **■'

INSTRUCTION OF FARRIERS.

The foregoing instructions relative to shoeing are, in substance,
those which I have been in the habit, for several years of laying
before the farriers in the different regiments in which I have
served, and with an amount of success which amply rewarded me
for the trouble I took to see that they were carried into practice.
Not only have my own duties been considerably lightened in the
greatly diminished number of lame and unserviceable horses, but
the labors of the farriers have been considerably abbreviated and
simplified, and by their being able to understand the reasons for
acting as I desired, their intelligence was awakened, and they
took an interest in carrying out my views.

In our army this is not always the case. The subject of farriery
is often looked upon much as it is in civil life— as a matter that
concerns the farrier only, and tradition and routine extensively
prevail. In saying this, however, I do not intend for a moment
to insinuate that the army veterinary surgeons are averse to
giving their attention to a most important, though it may appear
a minor, part of their duty. On the Contrary, many of them do
so, and with the greatest advantage to the service; but there is
not the same encouragement offered either to veterinary surgeons
or farriers in this respect as there is in Continental armies. In
the French army, for instance, there are schools and professors
of farriery, the most notable of these being at the cavalry school
of Saumur. In these, the farriers are regularly trained to a uni-
form and approved system before being posted to different regi-
ments, and direct encouragement is given to these men by the
institution of competitions, in which the most successful are re-
warded by medals and gifts of money.

But not only does the French Government bestow some care in
the advancement of farriery in the army ; it also stimulates com-

218 HOUSE-SHOEING.

petition and improvement among the civilian farriers. So late
as the 28th, 29th, and 30th April last (1870) there was a concours
of " marechalerie " at Valence, divided into two sections — a civil
and military, presided over by two special juries composed of
eminent veterinary surgeons and professors.

At this concours not only were models of shoes and shod hoofs
exhibited, but the farriers — civil and military — were tested in
the various operations of farriery on the spot, by shoeing saddle,
carriage, and draught-horses, draught and pack-mules, and oxen.
A large number of gold, silver, and bronze medals, as well as a
considerable sum of money, were given away.

These concours cannot but effect much good, by attracting
attention to this very important subject, and encouraging good
workmen.

In Belgium there are also concours and, if I remember aright,
farriers who attend them receive instruction from properly-quali-
fied veterinary surgeons, who are authorized to grant certificates
of proficiency.

In both countries, as well as in Germany, the students at the
veterinary schools are taught the principles and practice of
shoeing, and this instruction is of great value to them in after-
life.

It is scarcely necessary to say that in this country nothing of
the kind is attempted.

The Government does nothing to improve or encourage veteri-
nary science in any way ; hence the low state of this important
branch of medicine and rural economy in Britain, and hence
the enormous losses she has sustained for so many years.
Hence, also, the degraded and barbarous condition of far-
riery, even in our cities and towns. With the exception of,
on very rare occasions, the distribution of a prize or two at some

30RSE-SHOEING.

219

local agricultural show to farriers, who imagine that paring and
rasping, and a fantastically-wrought piece of iron, constitute the
acme of shoeing, the subject is thought unworthy of notice.
Even at the veterinary schools, during my matriculation, it was
dismissed in a brief lecture of an hour, and then pathological
shoeing was chiefly referred to. Nothing of the principles or
practice was ever taught.

When the Veterinary Colleges are so indifferent to a matter
so closely related to the comfort and efficiency of the horse, we
cannot wonder that veterinary siirgeons, as a rule, and farriers,
take but little interest in shoeing.

The remedy for this, of course, should be, in the first place,
applied to the teaching-schools. The anatomy and physiology
of the horse's foot, its management in health and disease, and
the principles and practices of shoeing, ought to be thoroughly
inculcated.

It would be most advantageous if, when this course was
adopted, farriers could be prevailed upon to attend, and, after
due examination as to their competency to practice their art
in a rational manner, they were to receive certificates of pro-
ficiency as in Belgium— these certificates carrying with them
similar advantages to those that the diploma of surgery confers
upon the surgeon.

In default of this, veterinary surgeons properly qualified for
the duty, and possessing the necessary convenience and oppor-
tunity, might be induced to receive and instruct apprentices in
farriery, granting them authorised certificates when judged to
be fit to practice the art.

Agricultural meetings should also be made the means of in-
structing farriers in shoeing, and of stimulating competition in
the districts in which they are held. Of course it is a sine qua,
non that the instructors and judges should themselves understand
the subject thoroughly.

220 HORSE -SHOEING.

These are the only means "by which, I believe, the art of
farriery can be improved in this country, where nearly all im-
provement is left to private enterprize. A profound knowledge
of the anatomy and physiology of the horse's foot is not absolutely
necessary to the farrier. What I have sketched out on these
subjects in this essay, I have generally found sufficient to enable
my farriers to comprehend the character of the organ they were
called upon to protect and preserve, and this much was easily
taught them in a short time. I have always had more difficulty
in making them unlearn their unreasonable practices than
acquiring those which 'were novel, though easier ; and my chief
antagonists in all improvements have been the ignorant
grooms and coachmen — the lovers of well-pared and rasped hoofs,
oiled or blacked like a boot ; hot stables ; physic ; bearing reins ;
blinkers ; cruppers ; powerful bits ; and everything, in fact,
unnatural and injurious to the horse.

CONCLUDING EEMAEKS ON SHOEING.

Notwithstanding- that we have given a long and valuable essay
on the shoeing of horses, and have had something to say about
them going barefooted, we still have something more to say on
this subject.

There is more damage done to horses from shoeing than by
letting them go without shoes ; and we would have the reader to
understand that we are speaking from experience, and not theory.
We have handled hundreds of wild horses, of all ages, that never
had a shoe on their feet, and we never have seen one lame,
because the sole, frog and wall sustained a certain portion of the
weight ; but when the shoe is put on in the old way, having it
bear on the wall only, the sole and frog are not allowed to come
in contact with the ground, so that they have no labor to perform,
and will soon become dormant and diseased.

If a horse that has been shod for years in this way loses his
shoe, and is compelled to walk on the frog and sole, he will get
lame very soon, from the fact that the portion of his foot that
has been idle many years is brought into use. The wall is
diseased also to a considerable extent, and will break off easily,
thus letting the sensitive laminae of the foot come in contact with
the grouud, causing instant lameness. We will give you an
illustration : Suppose you should place your arm in a sling and
tie it to your body for six months, without using it at all, and
then take it out, attempting to use it. Do you suppose you
could use it like the one that has been in exercise all the time ?
Most assuredly not.

By the same principle, it will disable the horse to have his
weight to come on the sole and frog of his foot after being idle
for years, by being shod in the manner we have mentioned. The
frog that is kept off the ground by this method of shoeing without

222 HORSE-SHOEING.

ever having the pressure that nature intended should come on it,
will become unable to sustain the horse's weight when the shoe is
taken off.

So while we would advise the abolition of shoeing as far as
possible, we have too much knowledge of the horse's foot to advise
it in every case. There are some horses that have been shod so
long that their feet are in such a horrible condition that it would
not do at all. But there is no danger of driving or working a
colt, even on hard roads, without shoes, provided the wear of the
wall of the foot is npt greater than the growth.

I have driven colts over hard roads and pavements for many-
months at a time, and they never gave any evidence of lameness.
But if those colts had been shod for a year or two, in the faulty
manner described, and then had their shoes taken off, they would
have become lame in a very short time.

If the colt must be shod, we would advise the use of the shoe
illustrated on the first page of the essay on horse-shoeing. If
this shoe is properly adjusted and fitted, we are satisfied the foot
will never become diseased from shoeing, because it comes nearer
to nature, and it is impossible to improve on nature.

"We will now have a word to say to the farrier or smith : When
horses are brought to them that are mischievous and bad to shoe,
and they have to break the horse to stand quiet as well as to fit
the shoes, we would advise them to charge the owner for breaking
the horse as well as for shoeing, for we consider it an imposition
on the blacksmith to bring him such horses to be shod. Time is
money to the blacksmith as well as to the owner of the horse.
However, if it is necessary to break the horse to stand quiet
while being shod, it is only a matter of a few minutes to break
him.

Fix him in the same position and handle him all over and about

HORSE-SHOEING. 223

the leo-s with the pole, as directed in the lesson for breaking
the colt. When he submits to being handled all over with the
pole, and before untying his head from his tail, pick up his leg,
and if he should kick, give him a little more whirling round,
which will make him giddy and will finally conquer him.

When traveling through Pennsylvania, I came across a horse
that was considered impossible to shoe while standing on his
feet.

The only way this horse could be shod was by thowing him
down and strapping him. All the known methods of subduing
the horse had been resorted to, in a vain endeavor to quiet and
subdue him so he could be shod. I was approached by the owner
and asked if I could break him to be shod. I answered « Yes.'*
He then offered to pay me 25dols. to break him so two shoes could
be placed on his hind feet. This happened just before the hour
for the assembling of my class.

Immediately after my class met, I asked several of them if
they thought the owner of this horse would pay me the amount
he had promised, in case I succeeded in the undertaking, to which
they replied, rt We think he will."

Then I invited the owner to bring in Fhs horse, which he did,
and in less than fifteen minutes the blacksmith had one shoe on,
at which the owner remarked :

" There's twelve dollars and a half gone to the devil."

I don't know whether he meant I was the devil, or whether he
thought he was foolish for making me the proposition to pay
25dols. for putting on two shoes. I soon had the other shoe on
and he paid me the 25dols., for which I thanked him and pro-
ceeded with the lesson.

We have found many horses fully as hard to shoe as the one we
have mentioned, but never have we been as well paid as we were for
this particular one, which was at the rate of 50dols. a set, and
second-hand shoes at that !

224 HORSE-SHOEING.

Our experience with blacksmiths during our travels has been
that most of them oppose any new ideas that may be advanced
concerning the paring and preparing of the horse's foot for the
application of the shoe, especially if not in accordance with the
manner in which they have been taught ; they also oppose the
use of any shoe that is foreign to their ideas, and we expect many
good blacksmiths and numerous horsemen will oppose some of the
ideas advanced in this book. The reader will bear in mind, that
at one time it was the belief, both among the scientific and the
uninformed, that the earth was flat, and that the sun rose in the
morning, passing over the earth during the day and under it at
night, making its appearance again next morning in the East,
thus causing us to have night and day. This was unquestionably
Joshua's idea when he commanded the sun to stand still.

When Galileo advanced the idea, in the year 1633, that the
earth was round, and that it revolved on its own axis every
twenty-foiu- hours, and thus gave us the night and the day, and
not the sun passing over the earth, he was obliged to read his re-
cantation in the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, and then
received his sentence. He was condemned, as e( vehemently sus-
pected of heresy," to incarceration at the pleasure of the tribunal,
and by way of penance, was enjoined to recite once a week the
seven Penitential Psalms. Finally, he was given some freedom,
but eventually died after spending the last eight years of his life
in the strict retirement which was the prescribed condition of his
comparative freedom.

But in these enlightened days every one, both the scientific and
the unscientific, believe as did Galileo, that the earth is round
and revolves on its own axis, and is not stationary while the sun
passes over it. Nevertheless, people still continue to condemn
all new theories and methods they do not understand, consequently

PURCHASING A HORSE. 225

we anticipate no little criticism on some of the ideas presented
in this work.

Course to be pursued in Purchasing a Horse.
First— Examine the eyes, in the stable, then in the light; if
they are in any way defective, reject. Second— Examine the
teeth to determine the age. Third— Examine the poll, or crown
of the head, and the withers or top of the shoulders, as the
former is the seat of poll-evil, and the latter that of fistula.
Fourth— Examine the front feet, and if the frog has fallen, or settled
down between the heels of the shoe, and the heels are contracted,
reject him ; as he, if not already lame, is liable to become so at any
moment.

Next observe the knees and ankles of the horse you desire to pur-
chase, and if "cocked," you may be sure that it is the result
of the displacement of the internal organs of the foot, a con-
sequence of neglect of the form of the foot and injudicious
shoeing. If these defects are still incipient, and the owner will make
a liberal reduction in the price on this account, you may ven-
ture to purchase, as this may readily be corrected by the use
of a shoe that will expand the hoof. Fifth— Examine for inter-
fering, from the ankle to the knees, and if it proves that he
cuts the knee, or the leg between the knee and the ankle, or
the latter badly, reject.

" Speedy cuts" of the knee and leg are most serious in their
effects.

Many trotting horses, which would be of great value were it net for
this single defect, are by it rendered valueless.

Six— Carefully examine the hoofs for cracks, as jockeys have
acquired great skill in concealing them.

If cracks are observable in any degree, reject.

Also, both look and feel for ringbones, which are callouses on the
bones of the pastern near the foot. If apparent, reject.

226 PUHCHASING A HOESE.

Seven — Examine the hind feet for the same defects of the foot
and ankle that we have named in connection with the front foot.
Then proceed to the hock, which is the seat of curb, and both bone
and blood spavins.

The former is a bony enlargement of the posterior and lower
portion of the hock-joint ; the second, a bony excrescence on the
lower, inner, and rather anterior portion of the hock, and the latter
is a soft enlargement of the synovial membrane on the inner and
upper portion of the back. They are either of them sufficient reason
for rejecting.

PROMISCUOUS RECIPES.

Sore Tongue,
Is relieved by washing with strong alum-water.

Liquid Blister.
Take 1 pint alcohol, | pint turpentine, 4 oz. ammonia, 4 oz. oil
origanum, 1 oz. naptha. Apply this with sponge every three hours
until you feel the skin thicken.

Blistering Paste.
Take 4 oz. pulverized cantharides, 2 oz. turpentine, 2 oz. English
resin, 2 oz. beeswax ; melt all together over a slow fire until dissolved.
Rub it on well with the fingers.

Cough Powder.
Ginger, fenugreek, licorice, blood-root, equal parts. Half propor-
tion lobelia and camphor may be added.

Dose— Tablespoonful twice a day. For Heaves, add more
camphor.

Cough Cure.

Resin 2oz-

Bloodroot 1 oz-

Tartar Emetic ! oz-

Ginger 2 oz-

Salts of Tartar 2 oz.

Mix and give teaspoonful three times a day in the feed.

Cough Remedy.
Put all the tar into alcohol it will cut, and add one-third quantity
tincture belladonna.
Dose : From one to two teaspoonfuls once or twice a day.
It is a splendid remedy.

228 PROMISCOTTS RECIPES.

Laxative Alterative Balls.

Soft Soap 4 oz.

Common Moss 24 oz.

Aloes 4 oz.

Dose — 1 oz.

Diuretic Alterative Balls.

Resin 2 oz.

Licorice Powder i oz.

Castile Soap 6 drams.

Dried Common Soda I oz.

Barbadoes Tar t to form 6 balls.

Give one daily.

Tonic Ball (Vegetable Tonic).

Opium I dram.

Ginger H dram.

Peruvian Bark 1 oz.

Oil of Caraway 20 drops.

Treacle to form a ball.

Cooling and Diuretic Drinh.
One ounce of nitre dissolved in a pail of water.
Aromatic Powder.

Licorice 2 oz.

Ginger 2 oz.

Caraway 6 oz.

Pimento 4 oz.

Mix. Dose : 6 to 8 drams.

Cordial and Anodyne Ball.

Camphor .., 2 drams.

Ginger , 1| drams.

Castile Soap 3drams.

Venice Turpentine 6 drams.

Make into 1 ball.

PROMISCUOUS EECIPES. **»

Diabetes Remedy.

Ginger 2 drams.

Oak Bark, p 1 oz'

Opium ldram-

Decoction of Oak Bark 1 pint.

Tonic Diuretic Ball.

Nitre 2 oz.

Sulphate of Iron 2 drams.

Gentian ldram.

Eesin 2 oz.

Ginger i dram.

Mix with molasses.

Fever Balls.

Ginger • 3 drams.

Emetic Tartar # dram.

Nitre 2 drams.

Camphor £ dram.

Mix in ball.

Diuretic Balls.

Make the following into six balls, and give one every morning or
every other morning.

Camphor 3 drams.

Oil of Juniper 3 drams.

Eesin 3oz-

Nitre Boz-

White Soap 8 oz-

Another —

Equal parts of Resin, Soap and Nitre, beaten together into a
mass.

Dose : 1 oz. to 1| oz.

230 PROMISCUOUS RECIPES.

Mixed Balls, Cordial Astringent Balls.

Catechu, 1 drain ; opium, 10 grains. To wash horses before or
after a journey.

For the Appetite.

Take equal parts of aloes, bayberries, assafcetida and saffron ;
make into a mass with extract of gentian. Dose, 1 oz.

Cordial Balls.

No. 1 — Gentian and ginger, equal parts.
Treacle to form a mass.
Dose — 1 oz. to 1^ oz.

No. 2 — Caraway and ginger each 41bs.

Palm-oil 4^ lbs.

Gentian 1 lb .

Beat together. Dose — 1 oz. to lh oz.

Anodyne Ball.

Camphor 1 dram.

Anise-seed I oz.

Opium £ to 1 dram.

Soften with Ext. of Liquorice.

Anodyne Drenches.

No. 1 — One dram opium, dissolved, £ pint water ; add one quart
starch gruel.

No. 2 — Mix sweet spirits of nitre, 1£ oz., with tincture of opium,
1 oz., ess. peppermint, 1 dram, and water. 1 pint.

A Splendid Liniment.

Oil wormwood 1 oz.

Oil sassafras 1 oz.

Oil origanum 1 oz.

Oil juniper 1 oz.

PBOMISCTTOUS KECIPES. 231

Oil spruce 1 oz.

Oil chloroform 1 oz.

Aqua 1 oz.

Ammonia 1 oz.

Tr. iodine \ oz.

Alcohol 2 pints.

Gum camphor ..2 oz.

The above liniment can be used for any sprain-swelling of the legs
of a horse.

Condition Powders.

Cream of tartar 16 oz.

Powdered gentian root 8 oz.

Sulphur 32 oz.

Saltpetre 4 oz.

Powdered resin 16 oz.

Black antimony 4 oz.

Powdered ginger 12 oz.

Powdered elm-bark 16 oz.

Powdered fenugreek seed 17 oz.

Powdered anise-seed 8 oz.

Two to six tablespoonsful to be given morning and eveniag. A
general alterative for hide-bound, etc.

Condition Powders

Sulphur 10 ft.

Saltpetre 10 1b.

Powdered fenugreek seed 5 lb.

„ licorice root 5 ft.

„ anise-seed 5 ft.

Cream tartar 2 ft.

Pulverized squills lft.

Tartar emetic 1 oz.

Dose — 1 to 3 tablespoonsful 3 times a day.

An excellent remedy when there is cough and fever.

232 PEOMISCUOFS RECIPES.

Hoof Ointment for Cows and Horses, to Soften and Heal Hoofs and
Cows' Teats.

Beef Suet h ft-

Beeswax i ft-

Honey 4 ft.

Fine Tar 1 pint.

Whale Oil 1 pint.

This ointment has been used extensively throughout the United
States, with uniform success.

Recipe to Soften the Horse's Foot.

Apply a poultice of 2 qts. linseed meal, 2 qts. rye meal, 1 pt. salt,.
£ pt. tar.

Cooling Lotion.
One pt. of Vinegar, 1 pt. alcohol, 1 pt. water, and i pt. of salt.

The Use of the Hook.

The hook used for cleaning the soles of the feet is a common
appendage of the stables in many districts, especially in New York
and New England, and nowhere have we found feet in such a horrid
condition. The sole of the foot of the wild horse, as also those of
the domesticated in the pasture, we generally find well stuffed with
soil, filling all the depressions in it, and no one ever saw any evil
effects from this natural stuffing.

But little sagacity is requisite to enable us to learn a most valuable
lesson, by observing the natural cause and effect of natural stuffing
on the feet, If we had a stud of a thousand horses, we would not
allow a foot-hook in the stable. Snow-balls should be jarred out of
the feet, but natural clay packing is useful ; hence it should not be
removed. Anything that excludes the air from the foot of the horse
is useful, and it is to this effect that we attribute such unprecedented
success in the use of our hoof preparation.

HOW TO TEACH HORSES TRICKS.

We will next illustrate the methods of teaching the horse to lie
down, etc., as practiced by circus-men for hundreds of years. Tins
method is the same as used by Denton, Offett, Karey, and others
engaged in the business of taining| horses. They ail gained a great
reputation as horse-tamers in consequence of these supposed new
methods. We will first explain how to apply the straps.

Take a good strong strap, about fifteen or eighteen inches long,
such as used for a breeching-strap, with a slip-loop on it. Put the
strap around the pastern- joint on the near fore leg, and buckle his

234 HOW TO TEACH HOESES TRICKS.

foot to the arm as shown in the cut, then place a strong girth around
his body. Fasten a small strap around the off fore-foot — run it
between the horse's body and the girth (see cut). Take hold of your
bridle-rein with your left hand, and the strap that is fastened to the
off foot with the right hand firmly ; this will bring him on his knees.
Hold him steadily, and in a few moments he will lie down ; pull his
Tiead around to the off side so as to bring the horse down on his near
side [see cut], and when he comes down on his side, bring his head

up to his off shoulder and hold him in this way until he gives up,
and treat him kindly. Then unbuckle the strap from the near foot
and say " get up." Of course lie will not understand what this
means. Urge him a little, so he will understand what you mean.
Make him lie down, repeating the operation of getting him up and
down a number of times, or until he will lie down readily when you
pull on the strap. To dispense with the strap on the off foot, take
a small whip and touch him on the off foot before you pull on the
strap, and as he moves his foot pull on the strap. In a short time he
■will come down on his knees without pulling on the strap,

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TRICKS. 235

by touching him with the whip on the front leg below the knee,
and in this way you can dispense with the strap on the off foot
altogether.

When you touch the horse with the whip on the front leg he
will get down on his knees ; should he attempt to get up, tap
him on the front leg and he will soon learn to lie down at the
motion of the whip. Do not work on him too long at one lesson.

You should select a nice, soft place in which to put him through
this exercise, or his knee-caps may become sore. Pads are useful
for the protection of his knees.

After your horse has been taught to lie down, you can begin
to teach him to sit up, by putting a good strong strap around
his neck ; at that part where the collar is placed have two strong
straps, made with rings on them. Buckle the straps around
his hind legs, at the fetlock joint. Have them covered with sheep-
skins, with the wool next to his hide, to prevent his ankles from
being galled.

Avoid using anything that has a tendency to hurt or scar
him. Then take a stout rope, double it and fasten the doubled
■end to the strap around his neck ; take the two ends and rum
them through the rings in the strap on the hind legs, bringing
them back to the strap on the neck. Draw his feet forward ;
take hold of the bridle-rein ; step back and say to him " sit up."
When he puts his front feet forward he cannot get his hind
legs in the right position to get all the way up, consequently he
remains in a sitting posture. Steady him while in this position
with the reins.

Rub and caress him a few minutes while in this position.
Then unite the ropes that are fastened to the strap around his
neck.

These ropes should be tied in a knot that will enable you to
loosen them both at the same moment. Repeat these instructions

236 HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TRICKS.

with your horse a few times, and he will soon learn to lie down
and sit up at command.

Now proceed to teach the horse to follow you all around the
training-yard. This you can do by taking- a stage or four-horse
whip, long enough to reach him at any part of the yard, saying
to him " come here.'"

He will not understand the meaning of your words, and to help
him to understand, keep snapping him with the whip well down
on his hind legs, until he turns his head toward you. This he
will do in his endeavor to get away from the whip. When he has
turned his head toward you, hold out your left hand ; step slowly
toward him, and should he wheel around, snap your whip at him
as before until he faces and approaches you.

Repeat this a few times, and he will folloAv you all over the
place.

This is the true principle of teaching all dumb brutes — treat
them roughly when they disobey and kindly when obedient. Re-
ward your horse with something he likes when he does as you
wish him to, and remember always to use but one command to
signify a certain act.

By this whip-training you can not only make your tame and
gentle horse come to you, but also the wild, unbroken colt or
horse. This is a good plan to teach any horse to come to you
when you want him.

Your horse is now trained to come to you when called ; to lie
down, sit up, and to follow you about the yard. Next proceed to
teach him to pick up your glove, whip, hat, or anything you
wish.

There are two ways to accomplish this : one is, to take a small
sack containing oats or corn, and throw it down in front of him.
He will get it in between his teeth and commence to get out the
oats or corn. When he picks it up, take the sack from him and
again throw it down before him, and when he again picks it up>

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TRICKS. 237

take it away from him, and repeat this treatment for some time.

Every time you throw down the sack, say to him " Pick it up,
Sir!"

In the course of a little time he will get so he will pick up any-
thing at your word of command.

Another way is to prick him with a pin on the off side. This
you can do by taking a position on the near side, and reaching
over with the right hand, holding the pin and handkerchief in it,
and, in trying to remove the pin he will get hold of the handker-
chief.

Every time he takes the cloth or handkerchief from your hand
pet him and encourage him to do it again. He' will soon take it
from any place you may put it.

To Teach the Horse to Make a Bovj.

To teach the horse to answer in the affirmative, take a pin in
your right hand, stand on his near side, a little forward of the
shoulder, and prick him slightly on the breast He will naturally
put his head down to bite off whatever causes the pricking, and
when he does this take your hand away and treat him kindly.

He will soon learn that when you touch him on the breast you
want him to lower his head and make a bow. Every time you
prick him with a pin on the breast, as you see hi m putting down
his head, move the toe of your right foot forward, and he will soon
put his head down every time you move your right foot.

This will not be noticed by the spectators, and will make your
horse appear wonderfully smart and intelligent, by bowing or
answering questions, either in the affirmative or negative, every
time you wish him.

To Teach the Horse to Shake his Head when Required.
To get your horse to answer in the negative, stand on his near

23S HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TRICKS.

side, prick him with the pin on his neck a little above the
withers ; as soon as he moves his head in the least, take your
hand away and treat him kindly as before. After repeating this
a few times he will shake his head every time you touch him on
the neck.

Then you can take a pin and fasten it in the butt end of your
whip-handle, and touch him lightly on the neck with the pin
Every time he shakes his head take away the whip and pet him
By this treatment he will in a little while get so he will answer
any question you may ask him.

To illustrate the system of taking advantage of the horse, we
will give the following example :

You have now taught your horse to answer questions in the
affirmative and negative. Take your whip in your right hand
and say to your horse :

" Do you like this whip ?"

Then raise it up and touch him lightly on the neck, being
careful not to raise the whip before you ask the question, or he
will shake his head before you get through with the question ;
but always ask the question before you make any motion. And
when you make the motion, he will shake his head. Then ask
him :

"Do you like your oats ?"

And make a motion with your foot, by which sign he will know
you want him to bow, or answer in the affirmative. By the horse
doing these things well and promptly, he will appear like a very
intelligent animal.

When traveling in the South, on one occasion, I took a horse
into the woods to train him to get on a large stump that stood in
a clearing.

While engaged with the horse, a colored boy came along, and
stood some distance away watching me handle the horse.

I disliked to have the boy watching me, so I said to the horse
in a loud tone :

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TRICKS. 239

"Do you see that colored boy standing over there?" The
horse bowed, signifying that he did. I then asked him if he
thought he could catch the boy, and he replied by bowing that he
could. Then I said to him :

" If he does not leave, will you go and bring him to me V
The horse answered in the affirmative.

This was too much for the boy, who immediately took to his
heels and ran for dear life, probably thinking that the horse
would surely catch him, as he had answered all questions relative
to himself.

At another time, while in Acamack County, Va., I went out one
morning to see how my horse Tom was being cared for, as I sus-
pected that he was not fed as I wished. On entering the stable
I said :

" Did you have a plenty of corn this morning Vs and he quickly
shook his head as much as to say " No."

The colored stable-boy stood near and heard me question the
horse. He looked first at the horse, then at me, and said :

" Look here, massa, dat ar horse ain't telling de truff "

" Well," I replied, "you give him about four ears of corn, and
if he refuses to eat them, I will know he did not tell the truth >
but I have never known that horse to tell a lie."

The boy went off, and soon returned with four ears of corn,
which he gave to the horse. Of course, he began eating the corn,
at which the boy remarked :

" Dat ar hoss am de smartest what dis 'fisticated young nigger
eber seed in he life."

Now, as you have taught your horse to lie down, sit up, come
to you when you call him, pick up any designated article, answer
questions, follow you about, etc., you are prepared to go on and
teach him other tricks, by the experience and methods employed

240 HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TRICKS.

for the above-mentioned tricks. There is hardly a limit to which
these performances can be carried. You can say to your horse :
" Will yon take the handkerchief from your front foot/' and at
the same time make a sign to hiin with your foot and he will
bow.

Then tie the handkerchief on his front foot, in such a way as
to be easily pulled off by the horse, leaving a corner of it handy
for him to get hold of, and so on, until he will get the pocket-
handkerchief from any place you may leave it.

Now, get a large box or platform, and get him up on it with
his forward feet. First get one of his feet on, then get him to
step up with the other — doing this a few times — after which he
will get up at the command.

Next, make him get up on" the box with all four feet, and
gradually lessen the size of the box until he will get on a box
not more than two feet across. Have the box larger on the
bottom than at the top, so it will not upset and frighten him.

Then be^in to teach him to walk around with his front feet on
the box or pedestal and his hind feet on the ground ; then make
him get upon the box and get down with his front feet, keeping
his hind feet on the box, and make him walk around the box on
his front feet ; then you can put the handkerchief up on a pole,
making him climb up on the box with his front feet and reach to
where the handkerchief is and bring it down.

Next, you can make him shoot a pistol by putting the handker-
chief on the trigger. At first you should be careful not to frighten
him by the report of the pistol. You can teach a horse almost
anything you wish.

Begin now to teach him to paw by touching him lightly on
the near forward leg with a pin. Then make a pile of dirt in
front of him and get him to paw it down. You can then take
your handkerchief and bury it in the pile of dirt; then ask

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TRICKS. 2-41

hini if he could find the handkerchief if you should hide it, and
give him the sign to make a bow, and he will bow, signifying
yes. Have some one cover his eyes while you hide the handker-
chief in the pile of dirt or sawdust. When his eyes are uncovered
let him run round the ring a few times, and when you stop him
see that he stops where he can paw the dirt covering the hand-
kerchief. As soon as he sees the handkerchief he will pick it up.
Then you can change these tricks to suit your notion. At first
you make signs to him and use a different word for each trick,
and as you find the horse will do it without the motion, you can
dispense with the sign and use the word only. When you first
made him lie down you had to strap his feet up, but in a short
time he would lie down by simply- touching him on the front legs,
and after awhile he would do it by only saying, " lie down, sir "
or by the tap of a bell. Observe the street-car horse. He stops
for one tap of the bell, and starts for two. The Fire Department
horses go to their places by the tap of the bell ; and if you wish
you can have your horse perform by taps of the bell.

In this way you drop the sign as soon as you can. People who
do not understand how a horse is taught, think because he per-
forms these tricks that he has more sense than other horses.
You can take any old plug and teach him to perform tricks.

When men are selecting a horse to train they generally get one
of fine appearance and high-spirited, as they are the best for the
purpose.

The first trick horse I had was a runaway horse I bought for
almost nothing. The fourth one, " White Hawk," was a four-
year-old colt, and very stylish, that had never been worked. I
paid four hundred dollars for him. I kept him for one year, and
then sold him to Mr. Skinner, of Ohio, for one thousand dollars ;
he is now traveling with a circus.
P

242 HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TRICKS.

He would lie down, roll over and back again, walk on his knees,
shoot a pistol, take the handkerchief off of either foot you would
tie it to, or off of his back, and find it when hidden in the ring ;
pick up your hat, glove or whip and hand it to you, or any other
person you might direct him to.

In fact, you could drill him like a soldier. He would advance,
retreat, wheel to the right or left, gallop, trot, walk, perform on
the pedestal and put his front foot on my head (as represented on
the cover of this book).

By following closely the instructions here presented for the
training of trick horses, you can. teach a horse to perform all the
tricks mentioned, and many more, such as ringing a bell, untying
knots, holding your overcoat for you in his teeth, and helping
you to put it on. Let some one tie your hands and have your
horse untie them, or any other trick that will amuse, such as
kissing you, shaking hands, answering a thousand questions.
And if you wish, you can train two, and have them teeter on a
plank, dance on a platform, waltz, jump through hoops of fire,
and you can also teach them so that one will stop for the word
that will make the other go, and go for the word that will stop
him, and have one lie down -wheu you say get up, and get up when
you say lie down. In this way you can make two horses perform
at the same time, or have it appear that one of your horses is
very stubborn, and in this way you can spend many hours with
your horses. Be patient, persevering, and good natured. Never
allow yourself to get angry with your horse. If you find you are
getting out of humour stop and rest one or two hours, and it will
be better for you and much better for your horse.

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

The dog is the most domestic of all animals, and is a very-
agreeable companion and willing servant to man. If he is abused
and ill-treated, he will be likely to become a nuisance. He is so
close a companion of mankind, that it becomes a very important
duty of his master to understand how to train and educate him
properly. If he is well and skillfully trained he will reflect great
credit upon his master, and become an agreeable member of his
household as well as a useful assistant. There are various kinds
of dogs and various methods of training them ; of course I will
not undertake in this work (being devoted principally to the
horse), to describe more than a few of the varieties of dogs —
those only that are best known — and neither can I devote much
space to their training, only giving the rules by which a person
with patience, perseverance, firmness and kindness can train the
dog to perform various useful and pleasing tricks. We will give
a sufficient number to lead# the operator to the teaching of many
more. Of course the dog is as varied in his dispositions and
temperaments as there are different kinds of dogs.

I will here mention, by way of illustration, that the bloodhound
will follow the trail of man or beast for miles, over all kinds of
ground and almost under all circumstances, even many hours
after the object of his search has taken his departure, and suc-
cessfully find him by the scent alone. His sense of smell is so
highly developed, naturally, that he requires no training what-
ever to teach him to accomplish this, for he is simply following

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

245

the natural instinct of his nature. But it will take considerable
training to bring him under proper subjection, as his nature and
disposition incline him to rebel against anything that savors of
curbing or controlling his impetuous and obstinate inclinations.
For this reason, the Cuban slaveholders preferred to cross this
breed of dog with the English mastiff, thereby securing an animal
that possessed the fine nose of the bloodhound and the controllable
disposition of the mastiff.

The Bloodhound.

The notice of the poetical and pictorial artist has been fre-
quently attracted to the majestic head of this dog, and there is
no doubt he is deserving of it. He excels the whole animal
creation from this point of view, as the greyhound surpasses them
in elegance of outline and grace of movement.

It is somewhat remarkable that two members of the canine

246

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

race should be possessed to this full extent of these two attri-
butes so different in themselves. In consequence of this hound
being used to track deer and sheep-stealers by the scent of the
blood dropped on the track, the prefix « blood " has been given
to this hound. He was employed to follow the body-scent of men
and animals on account of his fine nose, and in this manner he
was formerly employed to capture runaway slaves ; but becoming
almost unmanageable when he overtook them, the English mastiff,
or a cross between this mastiff and bloodhound, generally was
preferred on account of his greater amenity to the control and
discipline of his master. The reason we specially mention the
bloodhound is, that he being an uncommon animal, and seldom
seen in this country, and being possessed of such a noble head and
remarkable powers, we consider him well worthy the prominence
oriven him in this work.

The Greyhound.

his dog naturally differs from the bloodhound ; the blood-
hound follows his game by his wonderful sense of smell, while the
greyhound depends solely on his sight and remarkable speed.

MANAGEMENT OP THE DOG.

247

While in San Jose, CaL, a particular and highly-esteemed friend,
Mr. Frank McKiernan, presented me with a fine young grey-
hound, which I valued highly. When at Livermore, I thought I
would take the pup out for a little run. Suddenly a hare jumped
up, and to my great astonishment she sprang after him at full
speed, although she had never seen one before. She chased it so
close that she caused him to turn four times within half a mile.
It will be seen that the hound was obeying the laws of her
nature in giving pursuit to the hare, as she had received no
training whatever. My dog, William, well-known over the
greater part of the United States, was a splendid trick-dog of the
bull-terrier type, but his natural inclination was to fight. He
would attack a dog four times his size, and oftentimes would
attack his master when closely pushed. I will mention William's
tricks, and how to teach a dog to perform them, further on.

The Setter.

The setter is a handsome, bright, and highly valued animal for
all the purposes of finding and setting small game, as well as for
recovering birds, etc., after being shot. He is also susceptible of
being trained to do an immense number of tricks, such as return-
ing to a store and selecting a letter left by his master among

248 MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

many others, or finding your powder-flask, picking up your
pocket-book, if dropped accidentally, going to the house and
bringing you any desired garment, etc. This dog requires no
training to find and set birds in the fields and bush, as he does
this work naturally. Good setters have been known to bring as
high as $500.

The Mastiff.

The mastiff, m appearance, resembles the bull-dog about the
head, but with the ears dependent ; the upper lip falls over the
lower jaw ; the end of the tail turns up, and frequently the fifth
toe of the hind foot is more or less developed ; the nostrils are
separated by a deep groove ; his countenance is grave and some-
what sullen, and his deep-toned bark can be heard at any hour of
his watchfulness. He is much taller than the bull-dog, but not so
deep in the chest. His head is large compared with the size of
his body. It is generally believed that the mastiff is an original
breed peculiar to the British Islands. He is generally used as a
watch-dog, and his large proportions make quite an impression
on a stranger, especially during the still hours of night.
It is with the greatest vigilance that he watches the property
and abode of his master, never neglecting his duty. Nothing
will induce him to forsake his watchfulness over anything placed

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

240

in his charge to guard. His attachment to his master, and great
appreciation of kindness and favors bestowed on him, is fully as
great as shown by the most diminutive canine, notwithstanding
his great size, commanding appearance and faithful watchfulness
over his master's abode. The natural instinct of this dog is un-
mistakably that of a faithful watch-dog, and he requires little
or no training for this purpose.

The Poodle.

From what particular breed the poodle descended is unknown,
yet all his peculiarities of form, size, and susceptibility to train-
ing have been remarkably well retained. He was originally a
water-dog, as is amply shown by his natural propensities while in
a domesticated state, and he is the easiest trained and educated
of any other dog. As sporting dogs they are not recognized to
any extent. His great attachment to his master, the great
number of useful tricks which he can be trained to perform, make
him the most companionable of all dogs.

It is customary to strip the poodle of his natural long curly
hair from the portion of the body back of his shoulders, leaving

250 MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

parts of his head and forward parts as nature intended, as shown
in the cut ; the contrast between the parts of his body may give
a pretty effect, but is liable to be the cause of bring rheumatism,
to which disease this dog is very liable.

Smooth Eat Terrier.

This dog has a convex forehead ; pointed muzzle ; prominent
eye; short fur; moderate-sized ears, half erect. He is a most
useful dog about the house and farm, having no superior as a
destroyer of rats, weazels, polecats, etc., for which service he
requires no training, his natural propensities guiding him in his
work. There are the rough and smooth terriers ; the rough clog
probably obtained his shaggy coat from the cur, and the smooth
terrier may derive his from the hound. Were it not for this very
useful dog many a granary and barn would be the scene of an
immense loss of grain by rats. The terrier is quick and active,
and easy to train for the performance of many novel and interest-
ing tricks.

Collie, or Shepherd Dog.

This animal is used for the purpose of watching, returning stray
sheep to the flock, heading off, guiding and driving sheep, as
well as protecting them from wild animals and dogs. He is
also a faithful house watch-dog, of good disposition. He is

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG. 251

used extensively by the ranchers throughout California and Ore-
gon. The hair on this dog is long and inclined to be shaggy, his
snout sharp, body full and well-rounded, legs of moderate length ;
tail has fine brush, similar to that of a fox. He is capable of
standing an unusual amount of exposure to wind, rain, snow and
cold, his fine long hair providing him ample protection.

Among those dogs most readily trained to perform tricks are
the French poodle, water spaniel, setter and pointer. In fact,
any common cur such as we have illustrated on page 255 can be
taught to perform many interesting and amusing tricks, as will
be shown further on in this work.

Training the Shepherd Dog.

After you have selected the kind of a dog you desire to train —
one from six months to a year old — take him into some large
room or lot with a high fence, being careful that there is nothing
to interfere with your work, or any place for the dog to crawl
through and out of the room or lot. Take your dog into the
place prepare! for his training. It is preferable to get an animal
unaccustomed to being played with by boys and also one unused
to the words of command made use of to other dogs.

.252 MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

The first thing to teach him is his name and to obey promptly,
when you call him by name and order him to come to or go from
you. He must at first be taught to mind by the use of a single
word, and when accustomed to the use of a single word as here
(emphasizing here), teach him to obey by the use of two or more
words, such as "come here," "lie down," etc. There are many
ways of teaching the dog, as well as other animals, but our methods
for teaching him will be very simple and effectual, being appli-
cable to every case. If we teach the dog by coaxing, he will come
only when he feels disposed to, and is liable to disobey at a time
when we are extremely anxious to have him obey our commands,
therefore we resort to other means than by coaxing. Most writers
claim that it will take the dog three or four days to learn his
name by their methods — we propose by our method to teach him
in ten or fifteen minutes. Place a strong strap or collar about his
neck — there is a patent collar for this particular purpose, but is
unnecessary, as the above-mentioned strap or collar will answer
all requirements and inflict no cruelties on the animal. Attach
a cord to the collar, long enough to reach across the room or
enclosure ; take hold of it about six or eight feet from the dog,
and say " Here," or any other word you propose using when you
want him to come to you. A German, Frenchman, Italian, or, in
fact, a person of any nationality, will, of course, use whatever
word suits his language, and whatever word he may use, it is
•evident the dog will not understand it; so jerk on the cord
sharply, using whatever word you intend using to have him come
to you. This will have a tendency to hurt the dog a little at
first. Then move a little from him and repeat the word and the
jerking — always using the word first, followed quickly by pull-
ing on the line. As soon as the dog shows any signs of com-
ing toward you in answer to your commands, approach, and
•by caressing.

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG. 253

him, encourage his obedience in the future. After fondling and
kindly treating him for a little while, step away from him further
than before, and repeat the operation until he will come to you
from any part of the room or enclosure, at the word of command
— "Here!" When you get him to come to you, say "do" in
place of saying " that will do/' This lesson will occupy about
thirty or forty minutes, and will be sufficient for the first time.

On the conclusion of the lesson, romp and play with him, so that
it will not appear like a long lesson. During the training of the
dog, allow no one to approach or speak to him, and never permit
him to be fed by any one but yourself. When the dog has had a
good rest, begin again as before with the cord and collar,
saying to him, "Come," at the same time pulling him with the
cord toward you, should he fail to obey. If he comes at your
word of command, kindly treat and encourage him. Then you
can begin to teach him to go from you, at the word " go." This
you can do by leaving the room door open, or by getting a piece
of meat and throwing it from you, and encouraging him to go
after it. When he understands how to go, then teach him to
halt, by holding him with the cord when he is going after the
meat or toward the door. In fact, this dog wants to be taught
obedience only, and his natural instinct will teach him to drive
and care for the sheep.

To teach the dog to take hold of anything, first get (a piece of
stout cloth or rope, and get him to take hold of it, at the same
time using the word " Hold ;" and when he has held it long
enough, say to him, " Do," in place of " That will do," and repeat
this performance until he will readily and willingly take hold and
let go of the rope when ordered to do so.

When he has accomplished these things properly, procure a
gentle cow and encourage the dog to hold on to her tail until

254 MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

you give hiui the word to let go ; and then you may take him
along, accompanied by other dogs, to drive the cattle, encourag-
ing him to drive them. At the same time do not send him after
cattle unused to dogs, or they may turn and frighten him . After
doing this a few times, take a well-broke dog along that has been
taught to drive, and let your new dog have a chance to see the
old dog work. The young dog will require very little encourage-
ment to learn to drive and work with sheep and cattle. After
having learned to come, go, take hold, let go, etc., his natural
propensities will direct his future efforts.

TEACHING THE DOG TEICKS.

Many amusing tricks may be taught the dog, that will make
him appear very intelligent. As I have before said, much
depends on the breed ; a dog of the poodle family may be taught
to perform one set of tricks, while one of the bloodhound, terrier,
or greyhound family may be taught to perforai things entirely at
variance with those of the poodle. When selecting a dog to
train, I always get one that is considered very difficult to train —
a mongrel or common cur. If we select a well-bred dog, that is
considered very intelligent, we could claim but very little credit
for having such a dog perform interesting tricks j therefore, I
would advise the selection of the former kind for a trick dog, by
which course the trainer will receive greater credit than the dog
for his clever performances.

The reader must bear in mind the necessity of giving the dog
primary lessons before undertaking to instruct him in the lessons
pertaining to the grammar department of his course of instruc-
tions, or, in other words, teach him the simplest first, then the
more difficult tricks. My celebrated dog William was trained
to drink when he was not thirsty and to eat when not hungry.
He was a cross between the bull-dog and terrier, and did

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

255

not have the appearance of a dog susceptible of a high degree
of education, yet he was trained to perform numerous difficult
and interesting tricks.

Having first taught your dog to obey every command promptly,
proceed to teach him to sit up. This you can do by placing him
in a corner in a sitting position, and should he attempt to come

Common Cur.

down, tap him lightly on the chin, and say, " Sit up ! " Keep
him in this position for a little while, and should he come down
again, straighten him up, saying to him, " Sit up." After he has
sat in this position a little while, say to him, " Do," meaning
that will do. The object in placing him in the corner is to
furnish him with support at first, that he may not fall over.
After he has learned to sit up well in the corner, sit him up

256 MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

against the wall and try the same thing ; this will require more
patience, as he can easily fall over to either side. When he
has learned this well, take him from the wall to the
middle of the floor, and set him up ; but as he has no support
whatever, it will require more time and patience before he can
accomplish the feat. When he sits up on the floor without sup-
port, then proceed to teach him to stand up. This you can do by
taking hold of his front feet with both hands and straightening
him up, at the same time saying, " Up !" Then replace him in
the sitting position. Repeat this until he will stand up readily
at the word "Up!" and sit down at the word "Down!" The
trainer must bear in mind that this is not all to be accomplished
in a single lesson, but requires several. Do not prolong the
lessons until the dog becomes tired and inattentive. Next pro-
ceed to teach him to walk on his hind feet. This you can do by
taking hold of his forward feet with both your hands and walking
him forward and backward on the floor, at the same time saying
to him "Forward !" or "Back !" according to the way you require
him to go. After he understands what you want him to do,
holding on to him with your hands, you can then encourage him
to do it without holding on to him, by having him a little hungry,
and inducing him with a piece of meat to rise up and walk after
it, backward and forward. Next proceed to teach him to jump
over things. Ths best way to get him to do this is to get a small
bar or pole, six or eight feet long, placing one end of it on a box
about a foot high, and the other on the floor; then place the
cord on his neck, the same as in training him to come to you,
and get on one side of the bar, with the dog on the other,
saying "Jump," at the same time pulling on the cord to induce
him to do so. You might also have a small switch in your
hand as a "persuader," using the switch at the same time

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG. 257

you pull on the cord. After jumping over the pole readily, following
you over every time, induce him to jump over the bar closer and
closer to the box, at which point the bar is highest from the ground.
Every time he jumps over fondle him, and by kindness show him
that he has done what you required of him. Now you can increase
the height of the box to two feet, and repeat the lesson as before,
until he will jump over a bar at any reasonable height.

In giving these lessons never use the word "jump" more than
once, and then enforce your order. By this method the dog will soon
find out that he is never punished except when he disobeys, and
receives kind treatment and reward with food, for prompt obedience.
This prepares him to jump on the box, chair or stool. You can now
take the bar away and make him jump upon the box. When he
jumps up encourage him by kindness, then say:

" Jump down*1

If he does as ordered, proceed as before. Repeat this until he will
readily do it at the words " jurnp up," or " down."

The dog is now prepared to receive a higher and more difficult
branch of his education.

Get a barrel to begin with ; prop it so as to have it solid ; then
stand at one end and teach the dog to jump on the barrel, and down,
as you did when exercising him with the box, chair or stool. Have
the cord on the dog's neck, holding it with your left hand, all this
time, so as to compel him to take the position you desire. Then walk
half way around the barrel, obliging the dog to keep his head to your
left hand and his tail to your right. Get him to do this perfectly,
before allowing him to attempt anything new — to prevent his being
confused.

For each act you require of the dog, use a different word of com-
mand and do not repeat it, but insist on prompt obedience at the

258 MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

first command, and never neglect to kindly use him on the conclusion
of a well-performed lesson. After he has accomplished this part of
the lesson, take the props from the sides of the barrel so it will roll ;
compel your dog to get upon it, standing across the middle, with his
sides toward the barrel ends ; pull gently on the cord— this will start
the barrel to roll slowly toward you, as you always stand facing the
dog. The movement of the barrel necessitates the dog's changing
and lifting his feet to balance himself as it rolls along. Never permit
him to squat down, but keep in an upright position while going
through this exercise. Having gone on in this manner across the
room, walk around to the other side of the barrel, compelling the dog
to " about face" and begin to pull gently again on the cord, causing
the barrel to roll toward you. When he does this well without your
pulling on the cord, take him down and give him a good rest.

Next, order your dog up on the barrel, again obliging him to roll it
first one way and then the other. When he does this to your satis-
faction, walk around to the end of the barrel and making him face
you, with his head toward one end of the barrel, hold it and say to
him " Stop /" helping him at first, so he will not fall. Then go to
the side of the barrel, the dog turning his head toward you, with his
sides parallel with the ends of the barrel, and order him forward.
He will start to moving his feet, of course, thus causing the barrel to
roll forward. After he moves forward, reverse and stop the barrel
satisfactorily, then teach him to steady the barrel, while he stands
with his head toward the end.

When he has learned the above portions of his lessons, block the
barrel again, and proceed to teach him to lie down, sit up, and stand
up on the barrel.

When he has been taught well to stand erect on the floor, you

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG. 259

can then make him stand up on the box, and next on the barrel, and
he will soon get the idea of standing up well on the barrel.

uiea-

After your dog has been advanced to this high degree of edi
tion, you can proceed to teach him to pick up and lay things down at
your word of command.

There are two ways to teach him to do these things. One would
be to take a ball, or something he is used to playing with, getting him
to run after it and bring it to you, making him drop it at your feet,
by putting your fingers in his mouth, and pressing on the inside, at
the same time saying " let go."

Another way would be to place the object inside of his mouth, and
compel him to hold it there until told to let go. The best way is
to get a piece of meat or anything he is fond of, and of a size to pre-
vent his swallowing it. When you have succeeded in teaching him
this, you cau substitute some, other object in placs of the ball or
meat — for instance, a slipper or handkerchief.

Teach him to pick up and bring to you any desired object, always
being particular to call it by name, so that he will become familiar
with the sound as well as the sight of the object. Begin first with a
single object, such as a boot or hat. Step up close to it, making the
dog take hold and pick it up, then step away, and calling it by name
command him to bring it to you and place it at your feet.

If he does it all right pet him. By teaching your animal this one
trick thoroughly, with a single object, he will soon be enabled to dis-
tinguish the names of several things placed in a row. When he can
bring you any article asked for among a number of others, then sub-
stitute the color of the articles in place of their names, so when you
order him to bring a slipper, say to him "bring me the green
slipper," placing great stress on the word which represents the color.

260 MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG.

By tuis course of training it will appear as though the dog could
readily distinguish colors, when in reality you have only substituted
the name of the color of the object in place of its name ; for example,
if the slipper is green, say to hirn to bring you the green slipper, or
the Hack slipper, or the Hue slipper, and so on, until you can teach
him to bring you a slipper of any prominent color you may name.

By this course of treatment the dog will become able to distinguish
one color from another, no matter what the object may be, whether it
is a slipper, hat, paper, handkerchief or anything else.

There is a great deal of deception practiced in the exhibition of
performing animals, by the skill of the trainer in directing their
movements.

Remember, the trainer does the most of the tricks by his movements,
for, after the dog has been trained to pick up things, he can do
numerous tricks, such as telling the time by looking at your watch.
Be careful you see the watch yourself, or the dog cannot perform the
trick. You place on the floor cards with the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,
7, 8, 9, 0. Every number you wish him to pick up, step in front of
the number. If it is not the one that you want, say to your dog,
" Go on, sir, and tell me the time." If he picks up the right one, say :
" Bring it here, sir !" Then ask him how much three and six are, and
make him pick up the card No. 9. Then ask him how many dayi
there are in a week. Give him the sign to pick up Eo. 7. Ask him
how many days he likes to work, and make him pick him up the
cypher, and so on. You can see how numerous you can make his
tricks.

By having several dogs trained, each one in his line, and have
them sit on a stool and perform in turn, will make a very inte-
resting exhibition. Have the greyhound display his wonderful
powers for leaping. When you require him to do this, |have a

MANAGEMENT OF THE DOG. 261

pad for him to jump on, so as not to injure bim as he alights. Have
the setter perform tricks that require a fine nose ; the spaniel or
poodle for the water tricks ; the bull terrier for those kind of tricks
that require courage.

Bull Terrier.

If you want to make your dog sneeze, get a little snuff and put it
on his nose. Say " Sneeze, sir !" In a short time he will sneeze if
you point your finger at him.

In the foregoing we have given instructions for training dogs to
perform many amusing tricks ; the natural ingenuity of the experi-
menter will enable him to extend the list indefinitely.

DISEASES OE THE DOG.

Distemper.

Distemper is a feverish disease, marked by a rapid loss of strength
and flesh in proportion to the severity of the attack. It may occur
more than once in the same individual, and at any period of life. It
is generally met with in the puppy, and in the majority of cases the-
dog is afterwards exempt. The cause of the disease consists in the
poisoned state of the blood, which may be produced either by conta-
gion or by putrid emanations from filthy and overcrowded kennels.
It is from the efforts of nature to throw off this poison that the
various symptoms are produced by which we know the disease. The
symptoms differ in accordance with the difference of constitution of
the animal, also to the state of surroundings, air, etc. Distemper is
either simple or attended by complications in the chest, head, belly,
etc. Although they are all essentially the same disease, the variations
may be described as : 1st. Mild distemper. 2nd. Head distemper.
3rd. Chest distemper. 4th. Belly distemper. 5th. Malignant
distemper.

In almost all cases of mild distemper, the following symptoms
show themselves, with the additional symptoms peculiar to each.
The first noticeable thing is a general dullness, especially in the eyes,
accompanied by a loss of appetite and a dislike for exercise and play.
A short cough soon appears, attended by a disposition to sneeze, and
the dog appears as though he hardly knew which to do first,
cough or sneeze. While the dog is quiet in his kennel, the cough and

DISEASES OF THE DOG. 263

sneezing are seldom heard, but when brought out into the air, from
the kennel, especially after he begins to run about and play, the
mucuous membrane is irritated, and the cough begins, either by itself
or alternately with sneezing. There is slight thirst, generally a warm,
dry nose, a disordered state of the bowels, which may be either con-
fined or relaxed, and a scanty secretion of highly colored urine. In
a few days the dog loses flesh and strength to a great extent, and then
gradually recovers.

Head Distemper begins the same as in the mild form, and if there
is any cough or sneezing it is very slight, sometimes being imper-
ceptible. It will be noticed that the whites of the eyes are covered
with blood-vessels loaded with dark blood, and strong light appears to
give pain. Very often this kind of distemper is accompanied by a fit
of short duration, at the beginning of the trouble, and leaves the dog
in a state of torpor from which he can with difficulty be aroused. If
the brain is not relieved, the fits recur at short intervals, the stupor
increases, until the dog becomes insensible and dies in violent convul-
sions. Chest distemper is an extension downward into the chest of
the irritation which causes the cough. It there generally sets up
that kind of inflammation known as bronchitis, together with which,
however, there is often inflammation of the substance of the lungs
(pneumonia), or even of the external surface (pleurisy). Distemper
of the belly is often caused by mismanagement, brought on by either
the abuse of violent drugs or neglect for some time previous of the
secretions. In the former case, the bowels become very much re-
laxed at the expiration of ten days from the commencement of a case
of mild distemper, with constant diarrhoea, soon followed by the pas-
sage of large quantities of blood. When this comes from the small
intestines it may be quite black and pitchy, or when from the lower
bowels it is red and florid.

264 DISEASES OF THE DOG.

Generally these symptoms appear as the result of calomel, or other
violent medicine ; sometimes they appear of themselves. When the
bowels have become confined from neglect, while, at the same time,
the secretion of bile has been checked, a very dangerous symptom,
named " the yellows," shows it-self, the name being given in conse-
quence of the skin and white of the eyes being of a yellow color
from the presence of bile. When this occurs without distemper, it is
not so fatal ; but when it comes on during an attack of this disease,
it almost invariably proves fatal. Malignant distemper may come on
at first, the animal being, as it were, at once knocked down by the
severity of the poison. At times it shows itself within a week or ten
days after the first symptoms appear. It may follow either of the
four kinds already described, being marked by an aggravated form of
the symptoms of each. There are additional evidences of the
poisoned state of the blood which present themselves in the four
stages into which this disease has been divided. These stages are :
1st, incubation, during which the disease is hatching or brewing
2nd, reaction, when nature is working to throw off the poison ; 3rd
'prostration, following these efforts ; and, 4th, convalescence, wherein
the constitution recovers its usual powers.

In well marked cases of malignant distemper the four stages
average about a week or ten days each, and as the treatment for each
varies considerably, it is important to ascertain their existence. The
period of incubation may be known by the symptoms common to
mild distemper, as well as to other kinds. In the malignant form the
secretions are disordered, the strength is lost more rapidly, and the
appetite is almost gone. During the reaction the pulse becomes hard
and quick, the breathing is much hurried, and is often much quicker
than the pulse, without the existence of any inflammation. It is
important to notice this, as, when such is the case, any lowering

DISEASES OF THE DOG. 265

measures are improper. On the other hand, the pulse may be very
high and strong, and the breathing labored, which, together with
other unmistakable symptoms, require energetic and lowering treat-
ment. At this time, also, are developed those dangerous affections of
the brain, bowels, or liver, to which I have before alluded. When
this stage of prostration sets in the whole system is thoroughly pros-
trated, the dog is so weak that he is unable to stand, his strength is
almost entirely gone, so that he must be drenched to keep him alive.
The tongue, gums and teeth are coated with a black fur, and his
breath is highly offensive. At this time an eruption of the skin
shows itself sometimes consisting in mere purple spots, in others of
small bladders filled with yellow matter, but most frequently of
bladders varying in size from a pea to half the size of a hen's egg
containing matter more or less stained with purple blood, and some-
times blood alone.

On the skin of the belly, and inside of the thighs, this eruption is
thickest, but sometimes extends to the whole body. It is considered
a favorable sign, taken by itself, though it generally attends severe
cases. Health gi'adually returns in the convalescence from malignant
distemper, but great care should be taken, or a relapse is apt to follow,
and is often fatal. In distinguishing the various forms of distemper
from the diseases that mosL resemble them, it is necessary to bear in
mind the peculiarity of distemper. In its malignant form, especially,
is the rapid tendency to loss of strength and flesh which accompanies
it. A common cold or cough is attended with slight fever, languor
and loss of appetite, yet it may go on for some days without the dog
losing much flesh, and with but small loss of strength. So with
ordinary diarrhoea — it requires a very severe attack to reduce a dog
anything like the same degree which a few days' distemper will cause.

266 DISEASES OF THE DOG.

A clog with diarrhoea gets thin, but does not become a living skeleton,
as he does when affected with distemper ; neither does he lie ex-
hausted in his kennel, powerless to rise from his bed, and unable to
relieve himself unless receiving support. The same applies to simple
inflammation of the lungs, which may be treated with lowering
medicine with good effect without reducing the dog too much ; while
in chest distemper, even if the local symptoms are apparently as
severe, a treatment half as energetic will be fatal from exhaustion
following upon it.

The sequels of distemper are chorea, commonly called " the twitch,"
and a kind of palsy, known as " the trembles." Both are produced
by seme mischief done the brain or spinal marrow in the course of the
disease. They generally follow the kind described as head distemper.
Chorea is known by a peculiar and idiotic-looking drop in one fore-
quarter when the dog begins to move, causing him to bob his head
in a helpless manner. At times the twitch is only partial, and
at others almost universal, but disappears during sleep. Shaking
palsy affects the whole body. It is more rare than chorea, which
fact is fortunate, as it is considered incurable. All lowering mea-
sures should be avoided in the treatment of the various forms and
sequels of distemper, as this is the most debilitating disease.

Inflammation is always to be feared, attacking either the brain,
lungs, or bowels, and as bleeding and other remedies of a similar ten-
dency form the most active means for getting rid: of inflammation,
there is left only a choice between two dangers. In the general treat-
ment there are two things to be attended to : First, avoid lowering
the system, and, in severe cases, support it by good diet, consistent
with the avoidance of encouragement to inflammation. Second, take
particular eare that inflammation does not go far enough to destroy
life, or to leave such organic change in brain or lungs as shall render

DISEASES OF THE DOG. 26T

the dog useless for purposes for which he was deoigned. This, in
theory, is simple, but requires some experience in practice. At times
one is obliged to blow hot and cold at the same time, lowering the dog
with one hand and propping him up with the other. Kemember,
always,, that this disease has a natural tendency to recovery, the efforts
of the powers of the system being to throw off a poison in the blood.
Nature, therefore, requires to be aided, not opposed ; the less inter-
ference witli her operations the greater your success.

1. General Treatment — For the early stage give a mild dose of
aperient medicine, such as castor oil and syrup of poppies in equal
proportions. If the liver does not act give jalap and calomel. Avoid
giving calomel if there is plenty of bile in the evacuations. After the
early stage of the trouble is passed give no medicine. Keep the
kennel clean, dry, airy and warm, changing the litter often. Avoid
exercise till the running of the eyes and cough have ceased. Give
nourishing broths, thickened with rice, flour, or arrowroot, when there
is diarrhoea. If the bowels are confined give oat-meal. If there is
very little water passed give as a drench five or six grains of nitre,,
with half-teaspoonful of spirits of nitre every night.

2. Head distemper requires energetic treatment in addition to the
above. From four to eight leeches may be applied to the inside of
the ears ; bathe the part with milk and water first. Then put in a
seton to the back of the neck, first smearing the tape with blistering
ointment. Apply cold water to the head if it is very much affected,
with a wet cloth or with a watering-pot. Give calomel and jalap to
act on the bowels and liver, also a pill (one-half grain to one grain
tartar emetic), twice a day. When the urgent symptoms have-
disappeared the dog will require supporting with beef tea and tonics.

.268 DISEASE OF THE DOG.

3. Chest Distemper — Should there be inflammation, it sometimes
becomes necessary to bleed, but it is better to avoid any such lowering
measure, and use antimony or ipecacuanha. Mix one grain of either
of these with half a grain of opium ; give twice or three times a day
If the trouble is long continued apply a blister to the chest, or rub in
mustard mixed with vinegar. Should the breathing be more rapid
than the pulse, stimulants will be required, such as the bark and am-
monia mixture in No. 5.

4. Distemper of the belly, attended with purging, requires the use
of astringents. Opium is the best. The following has no equal :
Prepared chalk, two drams; laudanum, one once; mulcilage of acacia,
one ounce; tincture of ginger, two drams; water, five and one-half
ounces. Give a tablespoonful every time the bowls are relaxed. The
diet should consist of boiled rice with milk or broth, and in case of
much thirst give rice-water only.

If the bowels are confined, and, as generally the case, attended
with " the yellows," take calomel, 3 grains to 5 grains ; rhubarb and
aloes, of each 5 grains to 10 grains. Mix and form into a ball with
water, giving twice a day until it acts freely. Should bile begin to
flow, there is still greater care required to avoid checking the diarrhoea
on the one hand, while on the other the exhaustion caused by it is
•often very great. Broth, thickened with rice or flour, must be given
often, by force if necessary. Where there is great exhaustion from
diarrhoea, arrow -root and port wine will prove beneficial.

5. Malignant distemper is less difficult to control than that
in the head. The great thing is to avoid reducing the system in
the early stage. A mild dose of oil given as described in
No. 1 will be beneficial. After this, the less done the better till the
usual weakness shows itself. There is no chance of recovery
.unless by resorting to strong tonics and good food. For this

DISEASES OF THE DOG. ^t)tr

purpose there is no remedy like port wine or bark of ammonia. The
former may be given, mixed with an equal part of water, and with the
addition of a little spice, such as nutmeg or ginger. For the latter,
take a decoction of bark, loz.; aromatic spirit of ammonia, 1 dram ;
compound tincture of bark, 1 dram. Mix and give twice a day to a
large dog, or half to a small one. If the bowels are relaxed, give the
dog the astringent mixture as in No. 4. Eest is absolutely necessary
for the dog. *

GENERALLY PRESCRIBED MEDICINES AND
THEIR ACTION ON THE DOG.

Aperients.

To quicken or increase the evacuation from the bowels, aperients or
purges are given. Their mode of operation vary a good deal. Some
cause an immense watery discharge, which, as it were, washes out the
bowels; others act merely by exciting the muscular coat of the
bowels to contract ; while a third set combine the action of the other
two. Some purges act upon and stimulate the small intestines, while
others pass through without affecting them and act upon the large
bowels alone, and others again act upon the whole canal, showing that
the various purges act also on different parts of the canal.

There is another point of difference in purges, depending on their
influencing the liver, in addition, which mercurial purgatives surely
do, as well as rhubarb and some others, which effect is partly due to
their absorption into the circulation. They may be made to act by
injecting into the veins, with the same effect and results as though
swallowed and subsequently passed into the bowels. Purgatives are
classed according to the degree of their effect— into drastic purges, that
act severely and laxatives acting mildly.

270 DISEASES OF THE DOG.

1. Purgative Injection — Castor oil, £ oz.; spirit of turpentine, 2
drams ; gruel, 6 to 8 oz. Mix.

2. A Good Aperient Ball — Blue pill, t scruple; compound extract
of colocynth, 1 scruple ; powdered rhubarb, 5 grains; oil of aniseed,
2 drops. Mix. Give to a large dog ; but for a small one, give one-
half or one-third.

3. Strong Aperient Ball— Calomel, 4 grains ; jalap, 14 to 2d grains ;
linseed meal and water, one or two boluses, according to size.

4. Castor Oil Mixture — Castor oil, | pint ; laudanum, £ oz. ;
oil of aniseed, 1 dram ; oil, 2 oz. Mix, and give according to the
size of dog, from one to three tablespoonfuls.

Antispasmodics.

Anti-spasmodics, as their name implies, are remedies which are in-
tended to counteract excessive muscular action, called spasm, or when
in the limbs, cramp.

1. Anti-spasmodic Injection — Laudanum, sulphuric ether and spirit
of turpentine, each 1 to 2 drams ; gruel, 3 to 6 oz. Mix.

2. "Anti-spasmodic Mixture — Camphor mixture, 1 oz.; sulphuric-
ether and laudanum, of each | to 1 dram. Mix. Give every two
Jiours till spasms cease.

Alteratives.

To produce a fresh and healthy action in place of previous disor-
dered functions, alteratives are given. It is only by the results that
the precise mode of action can be understood, and the utility of these
medicines recognized.

1. Plummer's pill, 2 to 5 grains ; extract of hemlock, 2 to 3 grains.
Mix, and give every night.

2. Cod liver oil, from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful, with one or
two drops of wine of iron twice a day.

3. Stinking hellebore, 5 to 8 grains ; powdered rhubarb, 2 to

DISEASES OP THE DOG. 271

4 grains. Mix, and form into a pill. G-ive every night.

-A. Podophyllin, i grain ; compound rhubarb pill, 3 grains. Mix,
and give once or twice a week until the liver acts freely.

5. Liquor Arsenicalis— Dose, 7 drops to an average-size dog.
Specially recommended for dogs rendered gross from want of work
and over-feeding.

Anodynes.

To soothe the general nervous system, or stop diarrhoea, and some-
times to relieve spasm, as in colic or tetanus, anodyne medicines are
given. Opium is the principal anodyne used in canine medicine, and
may be used in quite large doses.

Anodyne Prescriptions.

1. For Long-continued Purging— Diluted sulphuric acid, 3 drams ;
tincture of opium, 2 drams ; compound tincture of bark, 1 oz.; water,
6^ oz. Mix. Give tablespoonful every four hours.

2. For Slight Purging— Prepared chalk, 2 drams ; aromatic con-
fection, 1 dram ; tincture of opium, 5 to 8 drams ; rice-water, 7 oz.
Mix. After every loose motion give two tablespoonfuls.

3. Castor oil, 2 oz.; tincture of opium, 1 oz. Mix by shaking.
Give one tablespoonful night and morning while the bowels are

• loose.

Astringents.

Astringents, whether applied immediately or by absorption into the
circulation, cause contraction in those living tissues with which they
come in contact, whether in the interior or exterior of the body.
They are divided into astringents applied locally to external, ulcerated
or wounded surfaces, and those administered by the mouth.

272 DISEASES OF THE DOG.

1. Astringent Ball, useful in Diabetes or Hemorrhage — Powdered
opium, 2 to 3 grains ; gallic acid, 4 to 6 grains ; alum, 5 to 10
grains ; powdered bark, 10 grains ; linseed-meal, enough to form
a ball for a large dog, or divide in two for a small one.

2. Astringent Ointment for Piles — Gallic acid, 10 grains ; goulard
extract, 15 drops; lard, 1 oz. Mix.

3. Astringent Washes for the Eves — Grouiard extract, 1 dram ;
water, 1 oz. Mix. Or, nitrate of silver, 2 to 8 grains; water, 1 oz.
Mix, and drop into the eyes with a quill ; or wine of opium to be
dropped into the eye.

4. Sulphate of zinc, 5 to 8 grains ; water, 2 oz. Mix.

Blisters.

In the application of blisters to the skin of the dog, great care
should be taken to muzzle him, and remove the muzzle only at feed-
ing-time.

Before blistering cut the hair off with scissors from the part to
be blistered.

Sweating Application for Enlarged G-roivths.

Lard, one ounce ; red iodide of mercury, one drachm ; mix. Rub
in a little everv day until producing a watery discharge, then desist
for a few days, repeating when necessary ; or paint with tincture of
iodine every day until the desired effect is produced.

Emetics.

Sometimes emetics are required for dogs, but not often. Vomiting
being a natural process with him, he seldom needs provoking. Eme-
tics, if had recourse to too often, will cause his stomach to become so
irritable that neither food nor medicine will remain on it. Their
administration should be kept carefully within the bounds of absolute
necessity.

DISEASES OF THE DOG. 273

1. Common Salt Emetic— Grive a drench of one teaspoonful of salt
to half the quantity of mustard dissolved in half a pint of warm
water.

2. Strong Emetic — Powdered Ipecacuanha, 4 to 5 grains ; tartar
emetic, one-half to one grain ; mix ; dissolve in a little warm water
and give as a drench, to be followed by a half-pint of lukewarm
water in a quarter of an hour.

Liniments or Embrocations.

The most beneficial remedy in use, when applied to the skin for the
purpose of producing counter irritation, and specially useful in
chronic rheumatism, colic, etc., is as follows : Liquid ammonia
(strong), laudanum, spirits of turpentine, soap liniment, each one-
half ounce ; mix.

Caustics,

Substances which burn away the living tissues of the body, by the
decomposition of their elements, are caustics, and are of two kinds :
first, the actual cautery, consisting of the application of a burning
iron, and known as firing; second, potential cautery, by means of
mineral caustics, such as lunar caustic, corrosive sublimate, potash,
etc.

Firing is seldom practiced on dogs, but it may sometimes be had
recourse to with advantage. A very thin iron should be used. To
stop bleeding from warts that have been cut from the mouth with a
knife, or in a similar way for piles.

1. Lunar Caustic or Nitrate of Silver— This should be kept handy
in a wooden vessel made especially for it — valuable to the veterinary
surgeon.

2. Blue Stone, or Sulphate of Copper— Should bo rubbed freely
into the parts affected. It is valuable for unhealthy sores, etc.

• Corrosive sublimate is used to remove warts, but should be left to
the use of practical surgeons.
K

274 DISEASES OF THE DOG.

Expectorants

Excite and promote a discharge of mucous from the lining membrane
of the bronchial tubes, relieving inflammation and allaying cough.

1. Ipecacuanha Powder and Powdered Opium — Each one grain —
confection enough to make a pill — give every six hours.

2. Expectorant Balls — Ipecacuanha powder, 1 to 1| grains ;
powdered rhubarb, 1 to 3 grains ; compound squill pill, 1 to 2 grains ;
powdered opium, | to 1 grain ; linseed meal and water enough to
make a ball. Give night and morning.

3. An Expectorant for a Recent Cough — Almond emulsion, 1 oz. ;
tincture of lobelia, 10 to 15 drops ; ipecacuanha wine, 5 to 10 drops ;
extract of conium, 2 to 3 grains. Mix. To be given two or three
times a day.

4. An Expectorant Mixture for Chronic Cough — Syrup of poppies,
1 dram ; diluted sulphuric acid, 5 to 10 drops ; Friar's balsam, 10 to
15 drops; mucilage, \ oz. ; water, % oz. Mix, and give two or three
times a day.

Cordials.

Medicines acting as warm temporary stimulants, augmenting
strength and spirits when depressed, are cordials. They often relieve
an animal from the effects of over-exertion.

1. Cordial Drench — Sal volatile, 15 to 30 drops ; infusion of gen-
tian, i to 1 dram ; tincture of cardamons, i to 1 dram ; camphor
mixture, 1 oz. Mix.

2. Cordial Balls — Ginger, 20 to 40 grains; powdered caraway
seeds, \ to \\ drams ; oil of cloves, 3 to 8 drops. Mix, and give
10 grains for a dose.

Diuretics.
Diuretics are remedies which promote the secretion and discharge

DISEASES OF THE DOG. 275

of urine, the effect produced by each medicine being done in a
different manner. Some act directly on the kidneys by sympathy
with the stomach, while others are taken up by the blood-vessels
and, in their elimination from the blood, cause an extra secretion
of urine. In either case their effect is to diminish the watery
part of the blood, and thus promote the absorption of fluid effused
into any of the cavities or into the cellular membrane, in the
various forms of dropsy.

1. Diuretic and Alterative— Nitre, 4 grains ; iodide of potassium,
3 grains ; digitalis, £ grain ; extract of gentian, 5 grains. Mix,
and give twice a day.

2. Diuretic Ball — Digitalis, j to 1 grain ; ginger, 4 trains •
nitre, 6 grains ; linseed-meal and water to form a ball. Give
night and morning.

Worm Medicines.

1. Male fern-root, 1 to 3 drams ; oil, 10 to 30 drops, in tape-
worm.

2. Spirit of turpentine, 1 to 4 drams ; tie up in a piece of
bladder and give as a ball, for obstinate case of tape- worm.

3. Areca-nut powdered ; give 2 grains for every pound of the
dog's weight. Good for worms.

Febrifuges.

Fever medicines allay fever, by increasing the secretions of
urine and sweat, and reducing the action of the heart.

1. Fever Mixture— Sweet spirits of nitre, 3 drams ; mindererus
spirit, 1 oz. ; nitre, 1 dram ; camphor mixture, 6| ozs. Mix.
Dose — Give two tablespoonfuls every six hours.

2. Febrifuge Pill— Calomel, 1 to 3 grains ; nitre, 3 to 5 grains ;
digitalis, i grain— confection to form a pill. To be given every
night.

3. Tartar emetic, l-6th grain ; nitre, 3 to 5 grains— confection
to form pill. Give night and morning.

276 DISEASES OE THE DOG-.

Washes or Lotions.

Mange Wash — Calvert's carbolic diluted with twenty times it&

bulk of water, and rubbed into the roots of the hair, in red

mange.

Ointments

Are greasy applications, by which means certain substances are
brought in contact with the vessels of the skin.

1. Digestive Ointment — Venice turpentine, 1| ozs. ; beeswax, f oz. ;
lard, 2 ozs. ; red precipitate,Q oz. Mix.

2. Mange Ointment — Lard, 1 oz. ; green iodide of mercury, 1
dram. Mix. Rub a small quantity every other day to the affected
parts.

Be careful not to leave any superfluous ointment on the surface of

the body. Never dress more than one-fourth of the dog's body at one

time.

Tonics.

Tonics increase the vigor of the whole body permanently, while
stimulants only act for a short time. They are useful after low
fever.

1. Distemper Tonic — Compound tincture of bark, one dram ; aro-
matic spirit of ammonia, one drachm ; decoction of yellow bark, one
ounce ; mix.

2. Tonic Pills — Gringer, two to three grains ; bisulphide of quin-
ine, one to three grains ; extract of gentian sufficient to make a bolus ;
give twice a day.

3. Tonic Mixture — Decoction of yellow bark, seven ounces ; com-
pound tincture of bark, one ounce ; mix.

Dose — Two tablespoonfuls two or three times a day.

Stomachics

Are prescribed particularly to increase the tone of the stomach.

1. Stomachic Draught — Compound infusion of gentian, one ounce ;

DISEASES OF THE DOG. 277

tincture of cardamons, one-half dram ; tincture of ginger, five
drops ; mix. To be given twice during the day.

2. Stomachic Pill — Powdered rhubarb, two grains ; extract of gen-
tian, five grains ; mix, and give twice a day.

Styptics.

Eemedies having a tendency to stop the now of blood from either
internal or external surfaces, are known as styptics. They are made
use of by either the mouth or by direct application to the part, in the
shape of a lotion, and also by the actual cautery, which is the best
for external bleeding.

Internal Styptics— For bloody urine, or bleeding from the lungs :
Tincture of matico, | to 1 oz.; superacetate of lead, 12 to 24 grains j
vinegar, 2 drams ; water, 7 to 7| oz. Mis. To a full-sized dog give
two tablespoonf uls two or three times a day.

Administration of Remedies.

It is often very difficult to administer physic in any shape without
some little patience and knowledge of the temper of the dog. Even
the keeper of a large, powerful dog of a savage temper, can with
difficulty control him. A resolute man with his hands properly
guarded by gloves, can easily handle a dog of less than 40 or 50
pounds weight.

To give a pill or bolus to a small dog, place him gently into the lap
of the operator, and laving hold of the space between the canine
teeth and the molars on each side, with thumb and forefinger of the
left hand, force the mouth open and drop the pill into the
throat with the right hand, following it rapidly with the fore-
finger, and pushing it down as far as can be reached with
the finger. Keep the mouth closed for a few seconds to give
the pill time to reach the stomach. To treat a large dog, he
must be backed into a corner, then straddle over him and put a thick

278 DISEASES OP THE DOG.

cloth into his mouth ; bring the ends of this over his nose and
hold with the left hand. An assistant then takes hold of the
lower jaw with the aid of another cloth, if necessary, and
wrenches the jaw apart j the right hand of the operator pushes
the pill or bolus down the throat, being careful, as before, to keep
the head up and the jaws closed for a few seconds. The manner
of drenching is either to pour the fluid down, using the cheek as
a funnel, or to open the mouth as for a pill or bolus, and pour it
down the throat by means of a sauce-ladle or water-bottle. Keep
the mouth closed directly the fluid is received, to force the dog
to swallow it.

Mange — No. 1.

This disagreeable and loathsome disease, although very pre-
valent, is but imperfectly understood, from inattention and want
of knowledge of location and treatment. The dog rapidly be-
comes weakened and debilitated, and is too often abandoned by
his owner to his fate. By adhering to the following directions
the disease will rapidly yield, your pet and companion will be-
come again a sprightly creature, bounding before you in healthy,
agile life.

The most common form of the mange is produced by the
presence of a small parasite, invisible to the naked eye, and
similar to the parasite which appears as the itch, on the human
body ; and can be conveyed to the healthy from the diseased dog
by simple contact, the parasite readily leaving the emaciated
victim to fasten upon a healthy subject. The dog, when per-
ceived to be affected, by the fact of scratching, should be
examined, and there will be seen small, red points, like flea-
bites. These eventually pustulate, and exude a thin, irritating
liquid or matter. There are many recipes. The best and
simplest is :

Take Ung. Hydrarg i oz.

Oil of Tar i oz.

DISEASES OF THE DOG. 279

Sulphur Sub 8 oz.

Whale Oil, about 8 oz.

Mix thoroughly, and after shaving the hair from the part affected,
and washing well the entire body of the dog, apply carefully and
well. After the expiration of three days, wash off and apply in
the same manner, and again in less than a week, if it seems neces-
sary.

This remedy is within the reach of every one, and I have found it
absolutely efficacious.

Mange— So. 2.

This species of mange, being deeper in the skin, is not as contagious
:« the first form. Dogs infected may associate with healthy animals,
yet not extend the disease. For this reason many persons have de-
nied the contagiousness of the mange.

This feature in follicular scabies is accounted for by the habits and
situation of the parasite. It only leaves the body of the dog when
carried off by the fluid thrown out in the follicle. The slightest
accidental contact suffices for its transference from the diseased to the
healthy dog, and spreads with remarkable energy.

Symptoms — First, hot tumefactions of the skin take place and are
usually patched with red, and blotchy. Soon small pimples show
themselves, rapidly becoming pustular, break and exude serum, and
(in extreme cases) pus, which forms in scabs or crusts. The skin
becomes thick and chapped, as in common mange. The disease
usually begins on the head, extending thence all over the body. It
is very obstinate in yielding to treatment and is of long duration.

Treatment — The best results have been obtained by the use of the
following :

Acid Acetic 2 drams.

Oil of Terebinth 2 drams.

280 DISEASES OF THE DOG.

Oil of Tar £ oz.

Ung. Hydrarg 1 oz.

Sulphur 8 oz.

Whale Oil 10 oz.

Mix the whole thoroughly and rub the affected parts for five
minutes. In forty-eight hours wash off with soft soap and warm
water. When dry apply to the surface whale oil ; the following day
repeat the ointment — dressing without washing. Eepeat the oper-
ation in a week.

CONTENTS.

Page.

Anodyne Stimulating Liniment 116

Anatomy of the Horse's Foot 125

Administration of Eemedies 277

Applying the Shoe 188

Age of the Horse 54

Aperients • 269

Anti-Spasmodies 270

Alteratives 270

Anodynes 271

Anodyne Prescription 271

Astringents 271

Aromatic Powder 228

Anodyne Balls 230

Anodyne D renches > 230

Apply the Strap 233

Balky Horses ^°

Bots 97

Balls for Farcy 118

Blood Spavin 96

Bare Feet for Farm Horses 120

Bull Terrier 261

Bloodhounds 215

Bruise or Sprain 116

Blisters 272

Bli stering Paste 227

Page.

Colic Beraedy 89

Catarrh or Cold 91

Cure of .Farcy 103

Curb HI

Conditiou Powders . 112

Condition Powder 119

Caustics 117

Cougli Balls 118

Cooling Liniment 115

Concluding Kemarks on Shoeing 221

Collie, or Shepherd Dog 250

Common Cur 255

Clips 180

Colic Flatulent 89

Contracted Feet 106

Colic Spasmodic 87

Cooling Lotion 232

Caustic for Dogs 273

Cordials 274

Cough Powder 227

Cooling and Diuretic Drink 228

Cordial and Anodyne Ball 228

Cordial Balls 230

Condition Powders 23 1

Diabetes Eemedy 118

Different Dispositions and Temperaments of the Horse 45

Diseases of the Horse and their Treatment 82

Diuretic Drops ... 113

Diseases of the Dog 262

Ill

Dog Medicine.

Page.

269

Diuretics

Diuretic Alterative Balls 228

Diabetes Remedy 229

Diuretic Ball... 229

Emetics 272

274
Expectorants

Eye of the Horse

Fatal Disease of the Foot 102

Founder 108

For NewStrains li6

For Bloody Urine 118

For Inflamed Leg, (railed Back, &c 115

275
Febrifuges

Fever Balls 229

230
For the Appetite

Glanders

Grease Heels

Growth of the Hoof 142

General Management of the Hoof 212

94-6
Greyhound

How to Break a Colt Properly 23

How to Break a Bad Halter-Puller 42

Heaves 96

117
Healing Compound 1Li

H. Sample's Horses and Dog William 2^3

Hoof ' 131

IV

Page.

Hook, the Use of 232

Healing Preparation 114

Hoof Ointment 232

Introduction 3

Incurable Diseases 119

Instructions to Farriers 217

Kicking Horses 37

Lung Fever 83

Lockjaw or Tetanus 97

Lampas 99

Liniment of Extraordinary Merit for all Purposes... 112

Liniment for Open Wounds 114

Liniment for Foul Ulcers 115

Xiniment for Cooling External Inflammation 115

Liniment for Inflamed Leg, Galled Back or Shoulders 115

Lice on Horses 112

Liniments or Embrocations 273

Liquid Blister 227

Laxative Alterative Balls 228

Management of the Horse 23

Mange Treatment Nos. 1 and 2 102

Magic Liniment 116

Mild Caustics 117

Management of the Dog 244

Mastiff 248

Mixed Balls 230

Mange— Dogs 278

V

Page.

Nasal Gleet and Treatment 103

Nerve Operation 105

Ointment for Healing Cuts, Grails, etc 114

Ointment 276

Preliminary Eem arks 5

Poll-Evil and Fistula of the Withers 93

Preparing the Hoof 149

Purchasing a Horse 225

Poodle 249

Quitter 101

Kingbone 104

Rasping the Hoof 195

Recipes — Promiscuous 227

Runaway Horse 36

Recipes to Soften Horses' Feet 232

Senses of the Horse 12

Strangles or Distemper 92

Sweeny 94

Spavins — Two Kinds 94

Scratches — Cure 101

Sprains in the Stifle 105

Shoulder-Joint Lameness Ill

Sticking Plaster for Cuts and Wounds 115

Shoeing 146

Shoeing of Defective Limbs 210

Streets and Roads 214

Smooth Rat-Terrier 250

VI

Page.

"Shoe 165

Setter 247

Shoeing Horses 121

Sprain and Bruise 116

Shoeing the Horse 202

Splendid Liniment 230

Sweating Application 272

Stomachs 276

Styptics 277

Sore Tongue 227

To Break a Horse that is xlfraid of a Locomotive... 51
To Strengthen the Tendons after Hard Driving and

Seduce Swelling of the Legs 100

Treatment of Cuts and Wounds 113

Training the Shepherd Dog 251

Trick Dogs 254

To Teach the Horse to Bow 237

Trick Horses— To Teach...: 233

Teaching the Dog to Sit up 255

Teaching the Dog to Stand up 256

Teaching the Dog to Walk on his Hind Feet 256

Teaching the Dog to Jump 256

Teaching the Dog to Jump on a Box or Chair 257

Teaching the Dog to Soil a Barrel 257

Teaching the Dog to Stand on his Hind Legs on a

Barrel 258

Teaching the Dog to Pick up or Lay down Objects 259

Teaching the Dog to Distinguish Colors 259

Teaching the D og to Tell the Time of D ay 260

Vll

Page.

Teaching the Dog to Multiply and Substract 260

Teaching the Dog to Sneeze 261

Tonic Diuretic Ball 229

Tonics 276

Tonic Ball 228

Teaching the Horse to Lie Down 233

Teaching the Horse to Sit "Up 235

Teaching the Horse to Follow You 236

Teaching the Horse to Pick Up a Hat 236

Teaching the Horse to Shake his Head 237

Teaching the Horse to Answer Questions 238

Teaching the Horse to Take a Handkerchief Off his

Foot 240

Teaching the Horse to Get on a Box 240

Teaching the Horse to "Walk Around the Box on his

Front Feet 240

Teaching the Horse to Get a Handkerchief Off a Pole 240

Teaching the Horse to Shoot a Pistol 240

Teaching the Horse to Paw 240

Teaching the Horse to Find a Handkerchief 241

Trick Horse "White Hawk" 241

Teaching the Dog his ~N&me 252

Teaching the Dog to Come to You 253

Teaching the Dog to Go From You 253

Teaching the Dog to Halt 253

Wash for Eeducing Inflamed Wounds 115

Wash for Fresh Wounds 114

Watering Horses 119

Winter Shoeing 207

Worm Medicines 275

Washes, or Lotions 276

J. J. Millek, Printer, Melbourne.

BU

4*~*v ''

^ "^SAy^"7''

■:*.&£■■■-

■■£$&