REVISED EDITION. THE A NEW AND IMPROVED SYSTEM OF HANDLING AND EDUCATING THE HORSE Togetlier -svith Diseases aud their Treatment. BY YORK & WILLIAMS. ALSO,~A TREATISE on SHOEING ; EDUCATING CATTLF and Do^S!, with Hints on Stable Mra}a-en^<:r.t. EIlADrOiiB. Vr.; A- A. EAKLK. BOOK AND J^:'I> PKIXJ' TO PURCHASERS. Persons buying this work have every riglit of using, but no rigiit of teacliing, or transferring to otliers, the book or its contents. By so doing tliey will lay tliemselves liable to prosecution. Entered accordinoc to Act of Congi'ess in the year A. I), 1866, by York &. Williams, in the office of the District Court for tlie; ^*uitvict of Vermont- Tiie writer of tliis little work, entitled The HoESEMAN'S Guide and Fakriee, lias made it liis constant business for a term of years of teacli- ino- one of the best systems by wliicli to handle wild and vicious horses that has ever been intro- duced into the United States or Canadas, and has been so acknowledged by all that have had the pleasure of seeing the system practically illustrat- ed by the introduction of the most vicious horses the States and Canada could produce ) and hav- ing a familiar acquaintance vvith the wish of* all lovers of this noble animal — the horse — to bring the system before the public in printed form, so that all who favor him with their patronage may be benefitted by its perusal. But in treating upon this subject, we are well aware of the difficulties under which we labor : vre are conscious of the fact that we are quite apt to excite the prejudices of men, who, having ^.an- aged horses to a considerable extent, and having ways of their own, with which they are satisfied, are likely to cry humbug to any jdea, which, to them is new and strange. We are also a^^are ti-at t'lere already exists in the minds of many inter; i- gent persons, a settled opposilion to all profession- als, wliose business is pretendiug to teacli aud im- prove the horse; an opposition arising from the many failures among thatclass,and the consequent damage done to their animals by being handled by such men, or under their instructions. We have no reason to expect that we can obliterate these X>rejudices at once ; but we have faith to believe that if we are given a careful hearing, and our ad- vice put into practice, we shall do much to im- prove the opinions of the people on the subject of the ^'education of the Horse." We do not expect to improve their opinion of ^'Horse Taming," — not at all. It amounts to but little, only for the time ; its effects are only momentary. The distinction between tmning and educating is clear and positive, and cannot be gainsayed by even the most care- less observer. We think we can make this per- fectly clear if you carefully peruse our work, and practice its teachings. We have devoted our time for the past ten years to the investigation and study of the subject, and feel quite confident our efforts have been of value to the public. We do not by any means claim to be infallible, but we speak of this to satisfy the public that ours is no system picked up in a day, but feel that it is the restflt of incessant labor for years. We do not claim all of the ideas we advance to be original with us, but whether they are, or ideas of others, neither are recommended without first having been l>ut thoroughly to the test by actual personal ex- perience. We advise no i)lan which we have not successfully tried, and found to be valuable. There is, to a certain extent, a moral resi)onsibility rest- ing upon authors of works of this nature, which is embarrassing in a high degree. The rules which he sets forth are sometimes deviated from without the knowledge of the operator himself, either from his not clearly understanding the meaning, or from his having too carelessly listened to the instruc- tions received, or perhaps too loosely scanned the printed, and the desired result is not reached. In a measure, this leads to a distrust of the system. Occasionally circumstances may arise in the hand- ling of the horse, which no foresight could have provided against, and if the operator does not find in the instructions given, a remedy for his diffi- culty, he lays it aside in disgust. Nevertheless we submit our work, confident of being able to*)e of great public service. In the forepart of our vol- ume, we shall almost exclusively treat upon the education of the colt, and the treatment of his habits, after which we shall speak of a subject which, in almost all its aspects, needs to be treated from quite a different stand-point. The colt is im- pelled to his awkwardness and bad habits by nat- ural impulses of timidity and consequent fear ; while the mature horse is actuated more by a strong self-will, his habits beifig formed through mismanagement of his first instruction. There- fore the rules which apply to the education and treatment of colts are not, in all instances the rules necessary to be observed in the education and reatment ox iie Horse, rfucn governing rules however, as being liouest with the animal, exer- cising kindness, forbearance, firmness, and perse- verance, apply in both cases. Kow, dear reader, with these introductory remarks, we shall com- mence our volume, introducing the points in al- phabetical order, endeavoring to so fully explain that none need go astray. THE HORSEMAN'S GUIDE AND FARRIER. History of the Cclebrat«itcd by York <& \%'illia.ius. MORGAN TIGEE. This famous liorse was bred by Lafayette Kuapp, Middlesex, Yt; is a beautiful hajj with bla^k mane and tail, one hind foot white ; weighs 1050 I)ounds; is eight years old, and in style ami ac- tion is unsurpassed. He was sired by the *^ Old Flying Morgan," and in speed and endurance is fully his equal in his best days. His dam was a full blooded ''Justin Morgan." Previous to our purchasing this horse, he had been under training by the "Rockwell System," which failing, left him more vicious and unman- ageable than before, (he was a sullen, bolting, plunging, runaway horse, and had become i^v- 8 fectly unmanageable by Mr. Lamsou, of wliom we purchased liim.) In ten days after applying our system, he became perfectly tractable, and was successfully exhibited in Wentworth, N. H., as a ''Trick Horse," and driven through the streets wltliout reins, by Professor Williams. He has been on constant exhibition for a little more than two years, and is judged to be the Most Thoroughlt Trained Horse in America. ALARM. This celebrated colt was raised in North Easton, Washington Co., E". Y.^ by Jona. Buell and came into our hands unhandled, in the spring of 1865,, and although but three years old, he exhibited an alarming temper, biting, striking, and jumping at any one who chanced to come within his reach. After having been under our training two weeks, he was harnessed to wagon for the first time in his life} and driven without reins through the streets of Cambridge, N. Y., by Prof. York, to the astonishment of all who knew his history. He was sired by "Kimrod Morgan." Dam, an English mare. He stands fifteen and three-quar- ter hands high, weighs 1125 pounds; hi^ color is a beautiful dark brown. He is a very stylish driver, and has been exhib- ited constantly since his training. GEN'L ^lAC. This horse was raised by Wm. D. Huntley, at Mexico, Oswego Co., N. Y., and is eight years old. 9 Tkis horse exhibits the most perfect character- istics of a full blooded Morgan horse we have ever seen ; is a blood bay, black mane and tail. His mane is very heavy and fine, measuring thrc4i fe^t and six indies in length. This was a very icicJced^ runaway horse, and per- fectly ungovernable in harness. He is now under training, to be driven double, with "Morgan Tiger,'? without reins, and is making rajnd progress. After one week training he made a graeeful appearance in the streets of Bradford, Vt, driven by Prof. Williams, without reins, amid the cheers of the throng who had gathered to witness t^e feat. Gen. Mac and Morgan Tiger, (driven together without reins,) for beauty, agility and perfect obe- dience to the requirements of their driver, when on exhibition, passing through crowded streets, avoiding vehicles and obstacles of every kind, stand unrivalled by any effort of the kind on rec- ord. YOUNG COLUiyiBUS. This fine mettled horse is 9 years old, stands 16 hands high, is of a dark chestnut color, and weighs 1140 pounds. We purchased him of Benj. Cum- mings, North Brookfleld, Mass. He is now under process of training, and is fast losing the careless habits inherited from his sire, "Old Columbus," who was a terror to his keepers. His Dam, Woodbury Morgan. For beauty and style he is unsurpassed. 10 ly 'Ou the 3ci of Ai^ril, 1S63, we commenced training a wild and nervous Black Hawk horse for Messrs. Williams & Wilder, who were at that time receiving instructions from us, preparatory to giving instructions themselves. In about six days we -delivered them the horse, and on the fol- lo'Adng wexik they gave a successful exhibition at Whitingham, Vt They continued to give suc- cessful i)erformances for some months, when, through entire caielessness on the part of the driver, the horse was severely injured by the bi'eaking of a vehicle, and has not since been ex- hibited. We are informed that each of these gen- tlemen ha\« a horse which they are driving with- out reins, broke according to our directions.'' We are surprised to see the above fabrication l)ublished by Messrs. Eockwell & Hurlbut. Any man who gives his time and energy to the self- vsacrificing business of teaching rational hoi'se- manship, should be a man entitled to the rCvSpect of an intelligent people j but when from jea^wsy, or malice, they become thus reckless of truth and honor, they relinquish their manhood, and become objects of mere disgust and detestation. We say "God speed" to every man who is la- boring to increase the usefulness and value of that noble animal — the Horse. But, to the facts : We had been teaching Horse- inanship for several years, successfully, previous- ly to the 3d day of April, 1863, and prcAious to our ever having seen Mr. Eockwell, or to his ever 11 liaviiig adopted tlie profession of horsemanship. The horse, Bhock Hawk Tiger, was neither trained or ever driven, nor even sesn by Mr. Rockwell, either then, previous or subsequent to that time, to our knowledge ; but was trained by Prof. Wil- liams, and is still owned hj him, and is the same proud spirited animal, (and driven without reins at the pleasure of the Professor,) whose reputa- tion excited Mr. Eockwell to issue the above base fabrication. The "injury^' si>oken of was occasioned by the breaking of the shafts of the wagon in which he was being driven, in making a short turn, thus freeing himself from the wagon, and for a mo- ment losing sight of his driver; but upon the sig- nal he immediately returned, with the the splin- tered shafts dangling about his legs, and in doing so he got a splinter in his foot, and for three weeks was not exhibited ; but after that was ex- hibited daily until our famous horse, MoEOAN TiaEE, was i^ut ui^on exhibition. Cxenera.! Remarks. According to the known history of the horse, he has been the friend and servant of man for nearly four thousand years. All classes of people, from the highest rulers and warriors, down to the lowest peasants on earth, have shared their friend- . ship and utility. The horse has also had its ad- mirers and Mends among all classes of men; even the i)oor Arab treats him as one of his own 12 family by lodgiug him in the tent with his wife and children. And yet his education is only in its infancy. His value has been so estimated from his first subjugation to the present, that a portion, at least of all civilized nations, as well as the Indian who catches him wild, have participated in the pleas- ure and profits of the horse. And his value at the present time depends, to a great extent, on the knowledge and skill we possess in using him ; for when we call out the finer feelings of his nature by kind treatment, we are delighted and comfort- ed in the manner and willingness in which he ren ders his services for our benefit j while to those who know no other way of governing him than by brute force, he often becomes fretful and vicious, and even a dangerous servant; consequently, we see that his real value to us rises or falls, acxiord- ing to our ability and manner of governing him. He has been imported and transported from na- tion to nation; he is used to do our hardest drudgery, as well as to pride himself in honoring kings ; he is used to convey us to places of amuse- ment and worship ; in fact, there is no vocation in which man is engaged that the horse is not made useful to further his purpose. And in all places, and among all classes, we find his value corres- l^onding with the state of society where he is em- ployed. And here is another idea about the horse which is worth its weight in gold, viz.: his cultiva- tion and improvement have a tendency to promote 13 good society. For man, while cultivating the lin- er feelings of his nature, (as he must, in order to control the horse properly), arrives to that degree of refinement in his mind which is so necessary for a member of good society to i)ossess. I have known men to buy a pair of horses, paying from three to four hundred dollars for them, which was considered by many, an enormous price. The pur- chaser, after keeping them a few months, vrould sell them again for double the i)rice he paid, to the astonishment of those who considered the first price extravagant. This may be attributable to the dealer's knowledge of the market, and his skill in training and improving their condition while they remained in his hands. So we see, too, that the stud}^ of the horse is calculated to elevate the mind of men, as well as to replenish his purse. How often do we see young men whose almost first act in life is to buy a horse, and sometimes, before they are able to pay the purchase money, and even part with the last cow, and every other valuable before they will i)art with their horse. This shows the great attachment man has for the horse, which can be traced back through history to the ancient nobleman, as well as the wild Arab. This will be made more apparent hereafter. Among all the studs* kept by the ancient no- blemen, you will find that there was scarcely ever one found which was not kind and submissive to his master; the reason of this was because their ' A collf^(?tion of horses. 14 mode of governing tliem was invaruibly that ot kind treatment. Tlie passion of love, in all ani- mals, when cultivated and fully developed, is even stronger than that of fear. When the Aral) falls from his mare (observes Smith om breeding), and is unable to rise, she will stop and ueigh until assistance arrives; if he lies down to sleep, as fatigue sometimes compels him in the midst of the desert, she stands watchful over him, and neighs and arouses him if either man or beast approaches. Allow me to give place to the following anec- dotes (which are well authenticated), partly to show the love and great attaclimcnt of the Arab (as well as others) for the horse, as well as that of the horse for his master : An old Arab had a valuable mare that had car- ried him for fifteen years in many a hard fouglit battle, and in many a rapid, weary march. Al- though eighty j'ears old, and unable longer to ride her, he gave her and a scimeter that had been his fathers, to his eldest son, and told him to appre- ciate their value, anli never lie down to rest until he had nibbed them both as bright as a looking- glass. In the first skirmish that the young man. was engaged in, he was killed, and the mare fell into the hands of the enemy. When the news reached the old man, he exclaimed, /'Life is no longer worth possessing, for I have lost both my son and mare, and I grieve as much for one as the other." and he immediatelv sickened and died. 15 The foliowiiig comes home to the bosom of ev- ery one possessed of common feeling : The whole stock of an Aral) of the desert consisted of a mare. The I"'rench Consul offered to purchase her in or- der to send her to his sovereign, Louis XIV. The Aralj would have rejected the proposal at once, with indignalion and scorn, but he was miserably poor. He had no means of supplying his most urgent wants, or procuring the barest necessaries of lire. Still, he hesitated ; he had scarcely a rag to cover him, and his wife and children were stiirv- iug; the sum oifered was great, it would provide him and his family with food for life. At length, and reluctantly, he consentod to the separation. He brought the mare to the dwelling of the Con- sul ; he dismounted, and stood leaning ujion her he looked, now at the gold, and then at his favor ite ; he sighed, he wept. "To whom is it," said he, "I am going to yield thee up ? To Europeans, who v> ill tie thee close — who will beat thee — who will render theo miserable ! Eeturn with me, my beauty: my jewel ; God preserve thee, my belov- ed, and rejoice the hearts of my children :" and. then sprang ui)on her back, and was out of sight in a moment. Ah, jockey, think of this ; did you ever x>art with a favorite that caused your wife and children to weep ? Sir Jolm Malcom, in his sketches on Persia, gives several anecdotes, but of a more amusing character, one of which we will notice here: "When the eneniV, returning: from his former mis- . 16 sion, was eucami)ed near Bagdad, an old Arab rode a bright bay mare, of extraordinary shape and beauty, before his tent until he attracted his attention. On being asked if he would sell her, 'What wall you give me V was the reply ,* 'That de- pends upon her age j I suppose she is past five V 'Guess again,' said he. *Fourf Look at her mouth,' said the Arab with a smile. On examina- tion she was found to be rising three. This, from her size and symmetry, greatly enhanced her val- ue. The envoy said, 'I will give you fifty tomans, (a coin nearly equal in value to a pound sterling). 'A little more, if you please,' said the fellow, ap- parently entertained. 'Eighty,' 'a hundred.' He shook his head, and smiled. The offer at last came to two hundred tomans. ']>ich is combined in the live senses: and one oi 18 the qualities of liis instinct is to fear the approacli of man, wliom lie looks ii\)Oii as his superior. This 1« more especially the case when he is in a wild state; but when this wild feay is changed to love by kind treatment, it is increased an hundred fokL Another of these is to love and obey man when domesticated and educated, hj which he general- ly does unless his animal proi^ensities are aroused by ill-treatiaent j for it is an undisputed principle in the nature of this animal not to offer resistance to our mshes when ma^de known t« him in a man- ner that he can understand us ; and, of course it Mlows that this must be done in accordance with the laws of his nature, Man is not only i)laced at one end of this great chain, but he forms the hook that hangs it up on the throne of Jehovah, and the swivel and pivot also u])on which the whole turns j and it extends from thence to the — jes, beyond the surface, to the very centre of the earth, and the bottomless deep ; and, notmthstanelingits crooks and nooks., and all its mysterious windings, there is a current of electric life running through the whole length thereof, that proceeds from the great battery from; wliich all knowledge and instinct iiows. Man stands at the head of all created beings, for all ^\ ill tremble and crouch with fear at his approach, c xcei)t when attacked in a warlike manner, or \ hen there is no chance to ifee. Tlien if man is }tl.ovtance of his studying his own nature, and if 19 he arrives at tlie liigliest state of liis moral cul- ture, to wliicli he is attainable, all the better, so as not to abuse the power invested in him, and en- able him to tiu'n all these things to the best and most profitable account. What, then* has man to fear from the brute creation when he becomes ac- quainted with his ability to govern and control them all, and when he sees the most ferocious beasts flee at his approach ? As we stated above, the domesticated horse loves man, and we very^ much doubt whether there is another creature on earth that is so universally beloved by man as the horse. They look ui)on him as their friend, and when in trouble will run to him for help and pro- tection. As an evidence of this fact, we need only relate one circumstance that we w itnessed with our friend and neighbor in Mich. He had a mare that owned a colt about a week old, running in a held wherein was an old Avell fourteen feet deep, which had been covered with plank, which, bj^ some means had got off, so that the colt fell mto the well. This happened about the break of day, and before we had got out of bed we heard the noise and clatter of a horse's hoofs, which awoke us. This vras followed by a loud neigh of a horse at our door. We scrambled out of bed, and went to the door just in time to sec the old mare returning towards the well that was some fort}^ rods distant. Seeing her look down into the well, and tlien start for the house again, we anticipated the trouble she was in. We sum- 20 moned lielp, and started for the well j but not without being met several times by the old maro (who seemed to be almost fi'antic), as if to huiTy us on to the i)lace of disaster. When we arrived, the colt was splashing in the water at the bottom. AVe immediately got him out with the help of ropes that we took along with us, when they both fol- lowed us back to the house j and whenever we stopped, the mare w^ould stand by us, and even lick our hands, as well as the colt, in thankfulness for the assistance we had rendered her in rescuing her colt. But to return more direct to the subject in ques- tion, I will- proceed to show w^hat man should be to accomplish his purpose with the horse, and then by what means he can do it. The timidity of many persons only prevents their becoming suc- cessful horse trainers, fully equal to the great Damptius of the i^resent day. It requires almost a reckless courage, a patience that never tires, and a temper that nothing can ruffle. With these re- quisites, any one may enter the pleasing labor of subjugating and educating the horse, with almost a certainty of success. All men are not endowed with this gift ; though any one of common ability who studies the horse minutely, will soon learn by his quick perception and judgment, to govern the horse, notwithstanding the great difference of organization and temperament that belongs to this animal, which does not always consist in a iiiiifonn plan of operating with all, but must be 21 varied according to their individual capacities, after subduing tlieir wild fear. This is a study, which, if pursued systematical- ly, will be one of the most ennobling*, as well as profitable branches of the industry of breeders and the farmer's occupation, for it will enhance their horse's value at least one-half (in some cases), by rendering them more docile and safe to guide and handle. In a word, the man should be in ev- ery respect of good disposition, and the law of kindness should be fixed in his mind as the key- stone of all successful theories of treatment to- wards the horse, and we should look for help only where help is to be found. The First Step to l>e Taken \ritli a Colt. Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, and at such a distance as not to cause them to scare and run ; then drive them very slow- ly, and if they stick up their heads and run, wait until they become quiet, so as not to frighten them ; then quietly pass around them again, and gently drive them in the direction you want to go. Do not flourish your arms, or halloo, but quietly follow them, leaving the direction free for them that you wish them to take; thus, taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to get them into the barn-yard very easily. If colts have always run in the pasture uncared for, as many do, there is no reason why they should not be as wild as the deer, and require the same gentle treatment. If 22 you want to get them without trouble — ^for the horse in his natural state is as wild as any of the undomesticated animals, though more easily tam- ed— the next step will be to drive them from the yard into the barn, not into the stable, but on to the barn floor. This should be done as quickly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion. The best way to do this is to lead a gentle horse into the barn first, and hitch him ,• then quickly walk round the colt, or colts, as may be, and gently flrive them in the direction of the door ,* seeing the horse in the barn, they go in without further trouble. The next step is to remove the quiet horse and shut the door. This is the coitus first idea of confinement, hardly knowing'^how he got into such a place, nor how to get out of it ; so he must take it as quietly as possible. See that everything is so arranged that he cannot jump over, or crawl under ; also, a clean floor. Everything is now properly arrangd for the colt to receive his first lesson. And how is it to be accomplished? Some individual, unacquainted with a correct system of handling wild and vicious horses, would say the plan we adopt by which to lialter and lead quietly wild horses, would so frighten them it would i)rove a failure. But quite the reverse. Prepare yourselt with a good spring- top whip, with long switch. Step into the barn ; close the door; all is now safe. You are alone with the colt, nothing to attract his attention but yourself. Stand quietly for a few moments, and 23 lie will ej e you closely ; tlieu take your whip in right hand 5 give it a sharp crack; at the same time approach the colt^ so the distance from him is the length of the whip, and give him some sharp •cuts around the hind legs, and under the flank ; never ^tiike him forward of his quarters. After ;aj)plyin^ your whip in. such n manner for about one minute, then take your whip in your left hand, at the same time hold out your right, and gently approach him, saying. "Ho! boy;" but in ai>- proaching him, if he turns and runs from you, again ax)ply your whip shari^ly ; then again ap- proach him saying, ^^ Ho ! boy." In operating iu that manner for aboat &ve minaites he dare not turn his quarters, but will staaa*d and face you, and you can lay your hand upon his neck, pat and ca- ress him. In doing so you gain his confidence and when he follows you he comes for protection, but when he turns to leave you he is sure he will get punished. By using the whip in that manner for twenty minutes, he will follow you around the barn the same as a pet dog, keeping his head close by your side. This exercise was fully illustrated by Mr. Jona- than Smith, of Virginia, which m thus described by S. W. Cole : A vicious mare was given him to tame, which it was said he could not manage un- less he dealt with the devil, for she was a wild, skittish young thing, high tempered, and dispos- ed to kick and bite. He ordered her into a barn, and tlien entered a»d fastened the door. Before 24: slie had time to Burvey liim, he was giving her the lash smartly. Around she went, kicking and jumping; no rest was given ; the sweat flowed j. and she slackened in her movements. When she approached him he slackened his whip, held out his hand, and said, '^Come along;" again she was oft*, and the lash applied. This was repeated sev- eral times before she would advance, and when she moved toward him he approached and patted her; and as he moved away and said, "Come alon g," she followed. In a moment she darted off ^ he api)lied the lash smartly ;. she stopped, trem- bled, and ai)proach.ed him. He patted her neck,, and said, "Come along," and she followed him sev- era! times around the barn ; when she lagged, he was away, and the whip applied. After that, she would not remain two feet from him. He ordered the door to be opened, and the mare followed close to him through the crowd, and back to the stable. This shows and proves clearly, the first step, and only correct way of forming an a€quaintance with wild and vicious horses. Ho^v to Halter-Break a €6It» Your colt is now brought up by the use of the whip, and follows close by your side. The next step is to teach him to lead with a halter; this can be accomi)lished in ten minutes by the use of a cord. Procure a cord about fifteen feet in length, and one half inch in diameter, made of cotton or hemp, or. cotton is preferable. Make a knot fast at one ei#d; at tlie other make a loop of 3iiffieient size to slip your liand tlirougli. Your cord is now ready. Take the end that lias the single knot, place it aronnd the horse's neck, jnst back of the head, and get the exact size ; tie a loop, then place it aronnd the neck, and make it fast — in the same manner yon wonld tie a cord aronnd yonr cattle's horns to make them fast in the stable. After which take hold of yonr cord one foot beloAv yoiu' horse's neck, i)ass it throngh between the neck and cord that is fastened aronnd his neck ; bring it forward and loop it into his month ; now take yonr hand into the loop at the other end of the cord, and yon can control him as yon please. Step back from yonr horse ; do not get forward or back of him, hnt stand to one side, abont opposite to the shoulder; at the same time give him a sudden, convulsive pull, and then let your cord hang loose. If he should prance and jump to the opposite side of you, give him another pull the same as before. Do not pull your cord, thinking to drag him after you by steady pulling, but give him a few convul- si\^e i)ulls, after which let your cord slacken ; and by exercising him in that manner for ten or fifteen minutes, he will very i^romptly step up by your side, no matter in what direction you may turn. Remove your cord, buckle on your halter, and you can lead him quietly just where you like. 26 !Ii telling' tSie Colt in .^tall tlic Fir««t Time. After lialter-breakmg your colt, it is then neces- sary to give liim a rest before working him far- ther, and to hitch him in the stall for the first time, observe the foUoAving rule : Examine your stable very closely, in order to ascertain that there are no loose or broken x)lanli: in the floor, also see that the rack, manger, and lining of the stall is sound and all right. All is now in readiness ; lead him quietly up to the stall. If he shows any sign of fear, let him stop for a few moments, talk gen- tly ; also pat him on the neck. By so doing, you will dispel his fears, and he will quietly pass into the stall. ^Now for the plan of hitching him: If you should hitch him with the tie-strap, as is gen- erally practiced, some little noise on the scaffold, above (such as scratching of hens, or the like), would cause him to scare, pull, break loose, and soon he is a confirmed halter-puller. The plan we adopt for hitching the colt the first time is simple and effectual. Procure a piece of rein webbing fifteen feet in length, or a strap one and a fourth inch wide, of same length. Get the centre of said web or strap ; now buckle a common web surcin- gle around his body, just back of the shoulder, then lay your webbing across his hips, carry one end forward between the surcingle and body on the left side, the opposite end between the surcin- gle and body on the off side of the colt, the centre rests across his hips, the ends carried forward ; now take the centre of tlie webbing in your right hand, give it one turn over ; that leaves it cross- ed upon his hips ; now carry the centre back, and pass his tail through the loop that you made by turning the centre of the webbing over — the same as crupping with harness ; step forward, reach your left hand through under the colt's neck j and tie them snug around the chest ; next, carry the end of your tie strax^ through the hole or ring in manger J bring back, and make fast to the web- bing that passes around the chest. Your colt is now made fast in the stall by the use of the web- bing attached to his tail ; you need have no fears of his breaking the halter or injuring himself. Place Mm in that position a few times, and there is no danger of his ever breaking a common hal- ter. If you should at any time use a rope in i^lace of webbing, wind the crupper i:>art with a i:)iece of soft cloth ; otherwise you would injure his tail. This plan Avill break the worst of halter pullers. IlaucHin^ tlie Colt's Feet. We consider it the duty of every one that rais- es a colt to prepare it for the smith before he takes it to the shop to get it shod, for many valuable colts have been made almost worthless througli this neglect. There are few horses that may not be gradually rendered manageable for this pur- pose. By mildness and firmness they will soon learn that no harm is meant, and they will not for- get their usual habit of obedience ; but if the re- membrance of corporal punishment is connected 28 with shoeing they will be more or less fidgity, and sometimes very dangerous. We wish that it was a law in every smith-shop that no man should be permitted to strike a horse, much less to twitch or gag him without the owner's consent, and that a young horse should never be struck or twitched. The x)lan that we adopt to handle the feet is very simple, and not less effectual. By adopting this plan, your colt can, in a few moments, be taught to stand perfectly still to be shod : as soon as you get your colt thoroughly broken to the halter, get a strap, or a piece of webbing, eighteen feet in length ; now tie one end of the straj) or webbing around the colt's neck, just where the collar comes ; work it well back to the shoidder ; you are now standing at the left side of the colt, do not be in a hurry, work handy, and carefully, be very uniform in your words and acts; now take tlie other end of your strap, gently pass it back between the forward legs, bring it through to the left side ; now lay it over his back, with your right hand under his chest, you can draw it through again to the left side ; now place the end up into the loop around the neck — you will now find your strap crossed just back of the left fore-arm — gently raise the left foot, and lay it into the strap that comes between the legs — the outside strap is wound around the ankle; now take the end that is passed through the loop around the neck in your right hand, your left holding the colt by the head ; you will see that vou have the 29 foot secure, with no possible chimce to injure him- self in the least, as the whole strain comes over the back, and around the neck ; l^t the colt stand until he attempts to free the foot, but if you hold him firm he will soon find it useless, and give up, and yield his foot to you ; the moment that he yields, and not till then, relieve him. You have now fully convinced him that you are not going to hiut him, and that he cannot get his foot from you, you will have no more trouble with that foot. Xow try the right foot in the same manner ; han- dle each one thoroughly j remember that it is just as necessary to handle the forefeet as the hind ones, for a horse that is vicious to shoe forward is more dangerous than one that is bad behind. Now handle the hind feet. Have the strap around the neck, and between the fore legs, as be- fore, and cany it back through the hind legs, around the near hind leg beloAv the fetlock, and bring forw ard thi'ough the loo^) around the neck ; take the colt by the head with your left hand, and the strap in your right, pull back on the strap, which will cause the foot toJbe drawn forward ; this the colt AA^ill resist by kicking, but diaw tightly on the strap, and hold him firmly by the head, he will soon find resistance useless, and will let you han- dle it a.s you wish. Now step to the right side of your colt, and proceed as on the left -, remember that you must be firm, yet kind, and ever willing to submit to him when he does to you, but never let him know his strength compared with yom' own, 30 and never let him know that he is the strongest. By faithfully pursuing this plan as explained and demonstrated before the class, I am confident that you will meet with the most favorable results. Remember that you must be particular and perse- vering?. To Ride a. Colt. You have gained the confidence of your colt, by the use of your whip, now be very careful that yon do not betraj^ it, for if very wild he will be veiy suspicious, and watch every move, therefore it is very important that you are uniform in all yoiu: acts and words. The old fashion plan of riding the colt, we think, veiy wrong. A¥e well remem- ber of attempting to ride a colt under the direc- tions of an old experienced horseman. We were placed upon the colt's back while he was rearing and plunging, and the next moment found ourself standing on our head in the snow, some three rods from the colt, and after maldng several useless at- tempts to mount him, gave it up as a bad job, Avhile, by adopting our present plan, in a few mo- ments the colt could have been ridden with j^erfect safety, just where we wish to go, and if tliis plan is faithfully pursued we are sure that any colt can be mounted, and rode, in a few moments, without incurring the risk of being pitched ui>on yoiu' head, and learning your colt a habit that will be dangerous, as well as very uni^leasant. AYe say this with gi'eat confidence, for during nine years 31 experience with the wildest colts that could be pro- duced it has never failed in a single case. Before you attemx)t to mount a colt it is very important that you teach him the word ^c^^oa^ which we claHii to be the most imi)ortant word in horsemanship, and if you T\ish your horse to learn and obey a word, you must first learn him the meaning of that word, and then only make use of it when you want lum to stop. IS^ever use the word kIioci to call your horse's attention in the stable, as many j)ersons do, such as, ^'wJioa, get over ; whoa, hael'; ichoa, come here,'^ etc., until the horse gets completely confused with the word, and cannot comprehend yoiu* mean- ing. Hence the necessity of being uniform in word and act. In fact, if you wish yoiu" horse to under- stand and obey you, you must always be honest ^vith him — never tell him what you do not mean — never deceive him under any circumstances, but gain his confidence, and never betray it. We would just as soon think of betraying the confidence of our brother man as the horse we were training. In teaching your horse the word ivkoa take a strap, six or eight feet in length, lay it across his back to the right side, fasten to the ankle of the right foot, holding the strap in your right hand, the left on the halter or bridle ; now lead the colt a few steps and say whoa^ at the same time pull on the strap, •which will throw him on three legs, and suddenly bring him to a stop, and in a vers' short time teach him that the word wlioa means to stop. After ed- ucating your colt thoroughly in this manner, then 32 attempt to mount him by placing yoiu' knee to his side, just baek of the fonvard forearm, and draw yourself gradually to his back 5 if he should at- tempt to move, pull on the strap, using the Avord ichoa^ and he will soon think more of his foot than of you, for he cannot think of both at the same time, as it is impossible for a horse to thuik of two things at once. You must now be very carefiil ; do not try to work fast, and do not be in a hurry, for you will frighten him with your quick, hasty moves. If you will work slowly for five minute?, you will be on his back, and he ^Yill show no dit- ix^sition to dismount you. We feel confident in your success, for we have never failed in mounting the worst that could be brought in half that time, move slow and careful until you get your right leg over his back, and in the same gentle manner get into an ui)right i^osition. You now have your bii- dle reins in your left hand, the strap in yoiu? right, which is attached to the foot, and if he attempts to make a wrong move the word whoa, and a pull at the strap, ^411 make all right. Bear in mind, how- ever, that there is a great difference in the temper and intelligence of colts, some being quick to learn, while others are very stupid. Remember that the more dull and stupid the subject, the jroyq need of patience and i)erseverence, always bearing in mind that you are a man, and are dealing with a dumb brute — that if you are not capable of controlling yourself, you certainly are not capable of control- ing a poor dumb brute. Your colt will now allow 33 .YOii to mount and dismount at pleasure. You can not expect him to be liandy to tlie rein mitil after he is properly bitted, which is the next step with the colt. Bitting tlieColt. Wheii we speak of bitting the colt, we do not expect the first lesson to give him a lofty, easy, graceful carriage of the head, it requires some few days diiving to so develop the muscles of the neck to carry it easy and graceful without tiring him. The first lesson in bitting is to educate him to come to the rein quick and handy, that is readily accomplished by the use of what is denominated a Mexican tie, which is simply a cotton or hemp €ord. (Mr. Tidball, tlie originator of this, used a hair ■eord) but ive finding that too severe for a colt with €1 very sensitive mouth concluded the cotton or hemp better, cotton is preferable, ^ovr dear reader let me say to you that this cord if properly used is very valuable, if not used judiciouvsly it is dangerous and would have a bad effect. It is one of the most powerful instruments for controlling the mouth ever made public. Kow then for its practical use. Procure a half inch cotton cord about fifteen feet in leng-tli, tie a knot in each end, pass the Ciid through twi<3e, so the knot will not slip (a single tie is apt to slip out) in one end make a loop about four inches in diameter, or one that you can pass your hand through easy. This looj* 34 sliould be tied with a sailor's bow-line knot, whicls is made thus : Hold both hands well out from you ; take one end of the cord in your right hand between the thumb and forefinger, the end from yoi» and the main rope extending toward you in the palm of the hand and lying across the little finger, the palm being up, hold out your left hand with the palm up ; lay the rope across? the fore- finger of the left hand and' draw it towards you through the palm until it is drawn through about two feet from the end you hold in your right hand } with your right wind the cord once round and close to the left, pass the end you hold in your right under the cord on the back of your left hand^ passing it from^ the wrist towards the forefinger and drawing it through about three inches, leav- ing the desired loop hanging below, keeping the palm of the left hand upj pass the end with the right hand under the cord beyond and outside of your left, passing it fr^om right to left, then bring it back over the cord on the back of your left hand, i)assing it from the fingers towards the wrist^ barely i)assing the ^not on the end through j with the right hold firmly ui>on the end and the loop which was left hanging when you passed the end three inches through, withdraw youT left hand and with it take hold of the main rope and draw the knot tight. You may think the directions for tying this knot rather a comi)licated afiiair but study the instructions given carefully and you will have but little difficulty howeverj if you should 35 fail in the first attempt try again, two or three times trying you will succeed. The small loop is not used for bitting, but as you will see is used for different purposes in handling the horse. Now for the other end of the cord as used for bitting. Take the other end of the cord, pass it around the neck of the colt about mid- way between the ears and shoulder, and get the size of the neck, then remove from the neck and tie a bowline knot the same as directions for small looj), now slip it over the colt's head, and back on his neck as far as j)racticable, with your right hand take hold of the cord about eighteen inches below the neck, and carry it through between the loop and neck for- ward, and place the running loop so formed into the colt's mouth ; now you have him in the posi- tion for bitting. Take hold of the cord that hangs down from the loox3 around the neck in your right hand, step directly in front of the colt, place your left hand upon his nose, gently puU upon the cord with your right hand, with your lelt press against his nose, you see by gently pulling with your right and pushing with your left you carry his nose back in the direction of his chest, that position gives him an arched neck, that is the first position of the head j the second is to carry his head well up. to accomplish this it is necessary to step about four feet in front of your colt's head, with the cord in your right hand, and give a light pull forward and upward, saying hold up your head sir, anoth- er pull, at the same time repeating the word (hold 36 ui) your Lead.) The next move is to educate Iiim to come to tlie rein quick to the rigiit and lefty now with your cord step to the left side of the colt (eight or ten feet feet hack) and give him a sudden pull, and then to the right side and give him another pull with the cord, hy repeating the lesson about twenty minutes each day for three or four days, your colt is well bitted he will come to the rein quick and handy. The next is to make him acquainted with the bit. To get llic Colt nsea to tlie Bit. ^N^othing is mo7e desirable than to have a horse viiTiy his head and neck gracefully. To eftect a graceful carriage of the horse's head and neck, various apparatus have been devised- — one of which is the common old-ftishioned bitting harness, and we must say we are bitterly opi)osed to its use. The practice which has been adopted by most farmers, of placing the bitting harness on the horse, and buckling up his head as high as they well can — also, drawing the side straps very short, and then turning him out in a pasture field, is not only cruel, but it gives a very ungraceful stiffness to the horse's neck. How often it has been the case where horses tiu^ned out in such a position have reared and thrown themselves upon the ground, struck the head upon a log, stone or some liard substance, and lost their life ? In the first ]>lace, put your cord around your horse's neck, i'.nd into the mouth, just as recommended for bit- ting the colt. Lead yoiu' horse out of the stable; let your cord be about fifteen feet in length ; take your whip in the right hand 5 touch him lightly on the quarters with the whip, and occasionally give him a pull with the cord, but in doing so, if he should ?tttempt to approach you, wave your whip to keep him the proper distance ; and as of- ten as he drops his head give him a sudden pull with your cord, which will cause him to keej) hi8 head in a proper i^osition. Give him a lesson of this kind about fifteen minutes each day for three or four days, after which get prepared a heavy surcingle. This is placed around your horse vnih a crotch made the same as the end of a common sawbuck ; this is fastened, and placed on the top of the surcingle, and riveted fast, leaving the top ends about two feet above the horse's back, with inch buckle attaehed. Your bridle is now put on with open reins, the end of each fastened to the buckles above. Have no side reins, but lead him out with yoiu' cord as before. When he attempts to crowd on the bit, a little pull will put him in a right position. When the horse has become some- what used to the bit, you should buckle the stays a little sliorter, and let him wear it so for a short time ; he will very soon find out that he cannot lower his head, and as his mouth will be rather tender he Avill naturally raise his head to take off the pressure of the bit from his mouth. You thus give voluntary exercise to the muscles of the neck, and in a short time it becomes natural and easy 38 for the horse to carry his head well up. Every time you put on the bitting you can shorten your straps a little, until he carries his head in the right position. Hsiruessing' tlie Colt fbr tlie First Time. If the colt is shy about allowing you to put on the harness, upon backing him out of the stall first put the cord around his neck, with running loop in the mouth, (same as for bitting) and give him a shari) pull sidewise, at the same time repeat the word whoa, also gently pat him upon the neck. ]N^ow lead him to the place on the barn floor where you wish to have him stand while harnessing, quietly take down your harness from the pegs 5 if the colt moves from his position, lay down your harness and give him two or three more sharx^ j)ulls with the cord at the same time with a firm- ness repeat the word whoa 5 do not speak too loud, be careful in pulling him around not to hurt him, a few pulls with the cord, patting and caressing about the neck and face frequently repeating the word whoa, mil so quiet him, that you will have no farther trouble. We well know this operation re- quires a little time and patience. When the har- ness is well on, take it off and repeat the process until he will allow you to harness him without scringing. In bridling the colt observe the same rules with cord as for harnessing, with your cord lead him around the yard for half an hour to ac- quaint him with the moving of straps and the 39 feeling of harness in his iinaecustomed position^ if lie siiould attempt to escape, one pull with the cord will bring him to you in a moment. After a little time you may commence driving him with the reins^ take the i)re(^ution to attach your web- bing to the ankles of the left forward foot, bring it back between the girth and body of the colt, hold it in your hands as a third rein, if he should attempt to run pull ui>on your webbing, take his left foot from Mm ; that leaves him on three feet, and in your power, at the time repeating the word whoa ; that brings him to a stop. A lesson of two or three hours each day for three or four days, turning him in different directions, to stop and go at the word, impressing upon his mind that you are his superior, and can control him at pleasure, he is now ready for hitching in harness the first time. Hitdiing tlie Colt to Hf^agoii tlie First Time. In hitching the colt to wagon the first time, wc think it a far better and safer plan to hitch him in double harness, beside a well broke horse, also, on the off side, and why 1 The first handling your colt receives has been mostly upon the near side, consequently, he being on the off side, and the broke horse on the near side, where the colt had received his first lesson, he would not be as apt to. scringe as he would be to place the broke horse on the off side. Again, should an accident occur, to cause you to jumj) from your wagon, it would be 40 more natural for you to jump to the near side, anti in stopi)ing your team it is more natural to get out on the near side. The harness being on both horses, you will now proceed to hitch them to wagon. In doing this it will be necessary to have some one to assist you 5 let your assistant lead the ]>roke horse to the near side of the pole } next place yoiu' colt to the off side; let the person help- ing you, hold the colt by the head while you are buckling the reins, hitching the tugs, and placing the webbing or long line to the anlde of the left forward foot ; perhax3S it would be better to buckle a short strap around the pasturn, with ring attached, to guard against chating. To be more fully understood, we will explain how it is made : Take a soft leather strap, one inch and a half wide, and ten inches long, with the inside edges shaved thin j then take a strap of firm lea- ther, fifteen inches long and one inch wide; on one end place a buckle and loop, with a lap of two inches on the under side ; in the other end i:)unch liules for tho buckle-tongue, place the inch strap on the outside of the wide strai), in the centre, with one end extending one inch beyond the buckle ; then stitch the two together, commenciog at the buckle, and stitching two inches, having the loop pretty close to the buckle, then sUp a one and a half inch ring over the outer strap, close up to the stitching ; then proceed with the stitching, and close up. This finishes the strap which is ta 1>iKklo around the ankle of the forward foot? A 41 strap or webbiiig fifteen feet in length, is Imckled or tied in tlie ring, and carried back between tlie girth and body of the colt, and back into the wagon, holding it with tlie lines in your hands. All is now ready, start up slowly, stopioing occa- sionally, while on a walk, pronouncing the word "whoa," at the same time pulling up on the foot strap. You will at once perceive that you have the most i:>erfect control over the colt's movements. Should he attempt to run, catch his foot and bring him to a stop 5 don't halloo at the top of your voice, but with fii^mness say iclioa. You may think your colt would stumble and fallj but strange as it may ai)pear to you it is almost imi)ossible when in that i)osilion, for him to fall, or even stumble while in motion. The colt being unused to work, it will be necessary to give him a short drive the first time, as you do not want him to get leg- weary, and become sullen ; after which you can give him short and lively drives until he becomes way- wised, and obeys the rein and word quickly. When he has by this means become accustomed to being han- dled without scringmg, or shoAving signs of fear, you may then hitch him up single. llitcl&ing* tlae Colt isi Single Harness. Put on your harness carefully, which should be strong in every respect, and well fitted to your colt 5 lead him around for a short time, until he becomes familiar with the harness, then check him quite loosely at first. Take your webbing, op 42 the strap, tliat you have used to handle his feetj attach one end to the ankle of the right forward foot, carrying it back through between the belly- band of your harness and the colt. Now take your reins from the X)ad, and you have three reins, two to his head and one to his foot. Kow drive him about a short time j when you want him to stop, use the word tolwa.) and take his foot. Now ])lace the web or strap between his hind legs, touch- ing him gently on each leg, if he should attempt to jumj) or kick, say whoa, pull on the foot strap, then gently approach him, pat and caress, to let him know that you are with him, and that he has done right in stopping. Continue this until he will start and stop at the wordj come to the right or left', as the reins indicate. He is now prepared for the wagon. Do not be tempted under any cir- cumstances to use an old rotten harness, or to hitch your colt to an old rotten, rattling wagon, liable to give way on the first move of the colt. Many valuable colts have been so frightened through such (*ferelessness as to become almost useless. Make everything safe and sure, as safety and certainty should be yeur motto. Before you liitch your colt into the shafts, lead him around the wagon or sleigh, and let him ex- amine ever^^ part of it ; then back him into the shafts ; stand on the left side of your colt ; have the strap or webbing attached to the right fore- foot, and over the back, holding it constantly in 43 your baud ; now gently lift the shafts, and make him fast; if he should attemi)t to move, the word whoa, and the use of the foot strap, would quiet him J now step to the right side, take the foot strap, pass one end over the belly band of the harness, and carry it back on the right side of the wagon, over the hold back strap, using that as a third rein in your hand. You see now that you are all safe. If he attempts to run, i)ull upon this strap, wldch instantly throws him on three legs, therefore he is obliged to stop J if he attempts to rim back, the same remedy stops him; if he attempts to kick, call his attention to his forward foot instantly. is"ow all that is necessarj' is to be careful, and use a little common sense in teaching your colt what you want him to do ; in a very short time you have a colt that you can recommend as pro- IDcrly broken, safe and kind for any one to drive, which is almost the first question asked by the pur- chaser. We have now taken you through the whole list of training yoiu^ colt, and we hope you will never lose sight of all the important principle of our sys- tem : Patience, Perseverance, and Kindness, with a good share of Firmness ; and also remember that colts should be trained not brolxen. Train a colt in the way he should go, and he will never need breaking. Do not do as many i^eople do, let their colts run until they are four or'five years old, and then undertake to break them the old fash- ioned way; this is impracticable, for you as ofteii u break tlieir constitutions, their coiu^age, their spir- its, and sometimes their }iecl'Sj and very often the breakers themselves get hurt. The colt should be taught step by step, with patience and persever- ance, what you wish him to do ; not driven to do what he does not know — what he cannot under- stand— while smarting under the lash. We will noAv commence with the old bad horse's 1j arness trick. We have very often remarked that ninety -nine out of every hundred vicious horses in harness are horses with ungovernable mouths. If we govern the mouth we will, in almost every instance, have a controlable horse. We will ask, (lid the reader ever see a balky, kicking, bolting, plunging, runaway horse, with a fine, easy, gov- ernable mouth ? We never have, therefore we al- Avays give the vicious horse a thorough training with the Intting cord before hitching up ; in a short time he will learn to yield the mouth readily to the pressure of the bit, after he has been thorough- ly trained with the cord. We wish to convince him beyoiul a question that w^e have the power to handle him just as we wish, and will just s^^ that we consider it necessary to handle all horses in a manner to com- ince them that they can be con- troled 'j let your lessons be thorougii, but not very long; be gentle and patient with the colt, but make the old stubborn and vicious horse feel the extent of your power until he submits ; then repeat un- til he yields unconditional submission; then be 45 gentle and kind, yet firm, in your treatment af terwards. After testing all otlier i^lans that iiave been brouglit before tlie pnblic, we must say that our present system for handling a vicious horse — ^to subdue him — or for performing surgical opera- tions, that it is far ahead of anjiihing ever made public, and if we had retired from the business of teaching Horsemanshii) we would not be deprived of the use of this one point for ten times its cost. The first step in the management of a bad horse is to show him that his willfuilness must yield to superior iiower. This you can do best with the use of our surcingle, which we will now explain so that you need not make a mistake. ILdiiins; tJte Colt. The plan for subjugating wild colts and vicious horses has been experimented upon more than all other points in horsemanship. At present there are five different modes of operating, as follows : Mr. J. S. Earey's plan of strapping the foot ; Mes- srs. Kockwell & Hmibut's whirling until he stag- gers, or falls to the ground ; Messrs. D. Magner & Dudley claim to have an improvement upon the last named by tieing a loop in the end of his tail , taking the tie strap of the halter, pass it through the loop, bringing his head to his side, and tied fast to the tail ; he then with a bow-top whip steps behind the horse, cracks him sharp in the quarters, and keeps him whirling until he falls. Another plan, as introduced by Prof. Hamilton, is to pro- cure a piece of rein webbing ten feet in length, at- tach one end to the ankle of the left forward foot, made fast with a timber hitch, which is made thus : take the end of the webbing, carry it to the inside of the pastern, bring it around the ankle to the outside, thence under the main webbing over to the outside and back of the pastern, then pass the end under and up through between the ankle and web- bing, passing the end through tmce, and slipped up close (a knot tied after that manner cannot slip 47 or injure tlie pastern, and will also untie without trouble). After the web is made fast to the pas- tern of the left forward foot, the other end is car- ried through under the chest, and over the horse-s back to the near side j a half-inch cord is now tied around the horse^s neck, about midway between the head and shoulder, a running looi> is then pas- sed through between the neck and cord, carried forward and looi)ed into the mouth. He now lifts the left forward foot, takes the webbing that is brought over the back to the near side, draws it close, winds the webbing around his right hand, and presses the knuckles hard on the left side of the back 5 with the left hand reaches to the off side of the horse's neck, gi'asps the cord that is looped into the mouth, and carries his head against his right shoulder. After moving him upon three legs for a little time, he then throws hira upoii the left side. All of the above named plans may answer very well, but we never adopt any of them, only with the green colt. In handling a wild colt, if he (at times) becomes stubborn and willful, we grasp the halter ^ith the left hand, with the right gTasp the tail, and give him a few sharp whirls to the left, until he is somewhat dizzy, we then slip to the opposite side, with the right hand grasp the nose- piece of the halter, with the left the tail, give him a few sliarp turns to the right; if he is rather sul- len and refuses to move, with your left boot give him a few kicks across the quarter, that will give him a st^rt, after which you can whirl him either 48 'way as fast as you like. Tliis will have a good effect upon a wild colt that has acquired no vicious hab- its ; but for the old horse we use our surcingle ; vStudy and fully understand its use and you will not fail to bring them to an unconditional surren- der. Eead carefully the next point in order, and its use will be folly exi^lained. Mo^v to Siil>«liic Si, TicloMs Morse* Much has been said of Mr. J. S. Earey's systein of subjugating vicious horses. It is known almost the world over. He has taught his system in the United States, Upper and Lower Canada, and has also had the pleasure of operating before the Eoy- al Court in England; and as far as our knowledge extends, his system is met with approval of all those that have attended his lectures. But after giving him all the praise that is due, you must consider Mr. Earey's system for subjugating vici- ous horses is like all other new inventions that are brought before the public — in a short time there are very great improvements. The plan we adoi>t by which to subdue vicious horses we consider far superior when compared with Mr. Earey's. We both accomplish the same object, but by a different way of operating. And why do we emi^loy such means by which to sub- due vicious horses; it is to put Mm in a position that he is unconscious of the amount of his strength, satisfy and convince him that we can control him to our liking, and when once conquered he sub- 49 ^its himself to our will, after which he will do al- most anything we may require of him. Now, clear readers, before you attempt to do any thing, it is necessary to know just what you are going to do, and how you are going to do it ; and if you are experienced in the art of taming wild horses you ought to be able to tell within a few minutes the length of time it would take you te bring a wild horse perfectly under your control. We have given you the first step. He is brought up, and will follow you by the use of the whip, Now, the next point is to subdue and conquer him. Let your cord remain upon your horse the same as for halter breaking. By the use of the cord you win be able to keep him quiet while i)lacing the surcingle around liis body, and other steps neces- sary for his subjugation. Mr. Rarey bedded the floor with straw, but we think it better to have a clean floor, and pad well the knees. If your floor is clean and diy there is no danger of your horse slipping J if you use straw upon the floor it is apt to give imder his feet j he would slip, and perhaps get injured. Now for the plan and use of the sur cingie : I>£nieu<>»ioii.s aiiid Use ol* j^urciiigler This is six feet six inches in length, with twx^lve rings attached to it 5 the first ring is five . inches from the buckle on the front edge ; next five inch- es from the first on the back edge ; next, six inch- es from the second. (This third riup< js? nvied fo?" 50 the left forward foot.) The fourth ring six inchej? from the third, placed to the back edge. The fiftli iind sixth rings are used as pulley rings to bring: ui) the right forward foot ; the fifth ring five inch- es from the fourth ; the sixth three inches from the fifth. ]N"ext is a small ring two inches from the sixth on front edge J next^ eight inches from seventh on back edge-, next, nine inches from eighth; next, three inches from ninth on back edge ; next, one inch from eleventh on back edge : the second and seventh rings are attached to the front edge of the surcingle, used for bringing the horse's head on his side when performing siu^gical operations. The first, fourth, eighth, tenth, and twelfth, are attached to the back edge by the \ise of short straps fastened with copper rivets ; these are used for fastening both hind feet to the sur- cingle when performing operations such as castra- ting, fireing^ etc. You are now acquainted with the plan ; now for its practical use.. Take your surcingle, aj)- proach your horse on the left side, put it around his body ; buckle so the third ring will be just in the position by which to fasten the left forward foot. Place in the third ring a strap eighteen inch- es in length, one inch and a quartei wide, with buckle and two loops, the same as common hame strap; this put through the third ring, the end slipped into the loop on the unfinished side, and drawn through. The strap now hangs by the third ring, fastened by a loop just back of the lett 51 forward arm. On tlie right side of the horse Just back of the arm, are the fifth and sixth rings. You have prex^ared another strap fifteen feet in length, and one inch wide. One end of this strap is buckled on the fifth ringj also a small stra]) eight inches in length, with one ring attached. This is buckled around the ankle of right forward leg, ring on outside. The other end of fifteen feet strajo passes through the ring at the pastern, and brought up through the sixth over the horse's back. All is now in readiness for handling your horse. You are standing on the left side of your horse. Take up the left fore foot, and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom ujpward, and nearly touching his body; the strap hanging to the third ring is Ijrought around* tlie ankle and buckled. The left foot is now secured, and leaves your horse stand- ing on three feet, and in j'our ijower. You are standing on the left side of your horse ; grasp the bridle-rein on the left side of the horse's neck, six inches from the bits. Eeach over the horse's back with your right, holding the strap that comes fiom the opposite foot ; bear against his shoulder till you cause him to move. As soon as he lifts his foot, your pulling with your right will raise it in the same position as his left, and he will have to come on his knees ; keep the strap tight in your right hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if he rises up. Hold him in this position, and turn his head towards you ; bear against his side with your shoulder, not hard, but v>'ith a steady, equal 52 l^ressurCj and in about ten minutes lie will lie down. As soon as lie lies down lie will be comi>letely conquered, and you can liandle bini as you please ; take off tbe strains, and straigbten out bis legs ; rub biin gently about tbe face and neck witb your band, tbe way tbe bair lies j baudle all bis le^s, and after be bas lain ten or twenty minutes ]fet bim get up j after resting bim a sbort time, lie liim down again. Repeat tbe operation tbree or four times, wbicb will be suflacient in most cases, for be is perfectly conquered, and bas submitted bimself to your will, and can be educated to do almost anytbing you may require of bun. By tbe use of tbe surcingle, you can i>lace your borse in any position you like, witbout tbe assist- ance of any one ; be can be castrated in twenty minutes by one alone, can be educated to know tbat a Buffalo robe, umbrella, piece of paper, or any object bowever ffigbtful, is barmless, and af- ter once educated in tbat manner you bave no furtber trouble. Castrating:. Tbe plan usually adoi^ted for tbrowing and cas- trating tbe colt bas been attended witb more or less danger, time and trouble. Tbe operator bas l>repared a rope about one incb and a balf in di- ameter, and some twenty feet in lengtb, in tbe center is made a loop, wbicb is slipped over bis head and neck down to tbe shoulders, tbe ends carried back and around tbe ankles of tbe bind 53 feet. One man is placed on each side of the colt, holding the ends of said rope ; the third man at his head. The two men holding the ends of the rope, pull, while the man at his head endeavors to back him. After some severe struggling, he is thrown back upon his haunches. I must say the plan is not only cruel, but attended with a great amount of danger 5 the colt does not recover from his injuries for some time. Two valuable colts, to our certain knowledge, were rendered worthless by the use of the above-mentioned step in throw- ing them: one had his thigh broken ; the other so injured across the loin that he became useless. By the use of our surcingle as described on pre- vious page, any boy fifteen years of age can lay down a horse easily, and place him in any position for performing surgical operations of any kind, without the assistance of any one. In sections where we are travelling in the spring season, colts are sent to us daily to be castrated, and not in a single case have we occupied more than ten min- utes in performing the operation, without any as- sistance. By the use of our surcingle it can be ac- plished in ten minutes (alone),easier than adopt the old fashion way, with half a dozen assistants. HoTF to I>rive a RiinaTva y Horse. This is easily effected by buckling a strap eight inches in length, one inch wide, around the ankle of the left forward foot, with inch ring attached ; another strap fifteen feet in length, one inch wide, 54 with one eucl buckled to the haine ring, the other end slipped through the ring attached to the past- ern, and from thence under the hii)-strap into the wagon. By adopting this plan you can remain seated and control him as you please. When you move your horse pull on your strap, and by so do- ing you bend the leg inward, so as to bring the bottom of the hoof nearly up to his body. Your horse now stands on 'three legs, and you can manage him as you please, for he can neither rear, run, nor do anything of a serious nature. This simple operation will conquer a vicious horse quick- er than any other plan that can be adopted ; it does not hurt him, while it enables him to per- ceive that you can render him powerless. His foot claims all his attention, and you can drive him at your pleasure. He may at first get very mad, and strike with his knees, but will soon give over, after which you may go to him, let his foot down, and caress him. You must bear ifi mind that he will tire very quickly on tliree legs ; hence you should let him have his foot as soon as he seems to be fatigued. You can let him have his foot without getting out of the wagon ; let your strap be a little slack, the ring on the pastern slip- ping backwards and forwards as he travels, so that no obstruction is in the way. Drive him with his foot down as long as he is quiet, but if he attempts to do anything wrong, pull on the strap and take his foot from him again. If he manifests a desu-e to run let him have the lines, but keep tlie strap firm that is attached to liis foot ; lie will soon tire, and stop at the word. By driving him in that way a short time, you will have efiectually mastered his disposition to run, or try to get away. We have seen hordes, totally unmanageable from their vicious propensities, so gentled by this pro- cess that in a few hom^s they might be driven any- w^here with perfect safety ; and one great advan- tage of the 'plan is, that the results are perma- nent. HoTT to I>i*ive a Kicking' If orsc. It must be remembered this is a vice foremost in point of danger. A vicious kicking horse is more dangerous than one possessed of any other vice. If your horse is a little nervous, lie him down with your surcingle, and gently harness him as though he were ever so kind. Then put on your ten-cent cord bridle. This is made by taking a half-inch cord twenty feet in length ; get the centre, and loop two gang-runners one foot apart ; now place it on the horse^s head just back of his ears, with loop on each side ; the ends are brought down, crossed through the mouth, and back through the loops above. Kow your bridle is ar- ranged on his head. Take the ends (after brought through the gang-nmners) back through the tur- rets of your pad ; place your horse between your shafts ; buckle the belly-band close, so your shafts cannot rise; then place a pidly on the top of the shafts, each side of the horse's quarters ; make 56 them fast. Then bring the cords fi'om the turret.^ that are attached to the pad under the wheels of the pulley, over the horse's quarters, and make them fast. Your horse is in just the right posi- tion. Have no fear, for you can drive any kicking horse ^vith it anywhere you please. K he attempts to raise his quarters, he throws his head violently into the air, and can dp no harm 5 it has a pecu- liar advantage over him, for it does not hinder the traveling, as there is nothing attached to his feet J and all you have to attend to is your lines.. Drive him_in that manner for three or four days, after which remove it, and your horse is effectual- ly broken of the vice. Auotlier Plan for Driving* a H^clner in Har* Place him between your shafts as before ; place your cord bridle upon his head, and arrange it same as first lesson for driving kickers in har- ness. Kow get a two inch ring, place it on the top of the back strap, where the hip straps cross ;, get a piece of harness leather four inches long and one inch wide. Stand the ring on the edge, take the lour inch strap, j)ass it through the ring, and stitch fast on each side. The ring is now made fast to the back strap on top of the horse's hips» Take the ends of your cord bridle (after passing them through the gag-runners), bring them back to the horse's quarters, and pass both ends througk the ring that is attached to the back strap 5 tlxo cord that is passed througli the g'ag--ruiiner, on the left side of the horse's head, that hehig passed through the ring, is brought down across the left hip, and made fast to the shaft ; the one on the right side of the head is passed through the ring, carried down over the right hip of the horse, and made fast to the off side shaft — drawn close enough to keep his head well up. We think the explana- tion given, sufficient to give the reader a full un- derstanding of the horse's position. Get into your wagon, start your horse, all you have to at- tend to is your reins. You see at once if the horse attemi^ts to raise his quarters, he sends his head violently into the air. The cord bridle in his mouth is very severe, and has a powerful control- ling influence. In hitching him up the first time, we would recommend hitching him to a two- wheeled vehicle, with shafts strong, made of poles some three inches in diameter. Should jou have a horse of this kind, in kicking should he curb his mouth against his chest, and kicking almost straight back, without raising his head but little, place an iron standing martingale two and a half feet in length from the hames to the bits ; that will keep his head well uj), and he can do no harm. Drive the kicker in that position for eight or ten days; drive him in such i)laces where he would be most likely to get frightened and attempt to kick. We think that length of time will subdue and conquer the most of kickers. 58 Hoiar to Effaiitllc a KicSiiiag- Horse in Double llui'iie^^^ In handling a kicking liors^ in double liarness you can virtually adopt tlie same plan as recom- mended in single liarness. Hitcli him to pole by the side of a well broke horse ; procure a heavy wagon shaft, with a bow at the butt, the same as for carriage. Step to the side of your horse, pass the small end through the lug strap (as in single harness) turning it sidewise, then carry the point of the crooked end under the end of the evener, leaving a la}) of some four inches, and make fast with two half-inch bolts, bend projecting outward, after which i^rocure a strap four and a-half or five feet lo\\g (owing to size of horses), one inch and a-half wide, with billet buckle and loop attached to each end, the same as your reins are buckled into the ring of the bits. One end of this strap is buckled around the false shaft, where it passes through the tug strap of the harness of the kick- ing horse ; the other end is passed through under the chest of each horse, just back of the forward legs, and buckled into the outside tug buckle of the opposite horse. That is to prevent the shaft from raising when the horse attempts to kick. ]N'ow place j^our cord bridle upon the horse's head, as recommended in single harness ; bring the ends back, and pass them through the ring made fast on the top of the hips ; on one side bring one of the cords down across the hip, and make it fast to the pole; the other end over the hip, and make 59 fast to the false shaft. He is now in almost tlie same position as when between the single shafts. The strap under the chest prevents the shaft from rising, should he attempt to kick, also the horses from spreading. We have another plan of work- ing a Kicking horse in double harness, and why we do not recommend it in all cases is because the operator is too apt to get careless, and neglect to watch closely the moves of the horse. The oper- ator can always tell by watching him closely ,when he is premeditating a vicious move : a little scring- ing, dropping of the ear, frisking of the tail, hog- ging down on the bit with a sudden start, all in- dicate something wrong. Consequently, you see 'tis liighly necessary to watch his moves closely. The plan we were about to speak of is as follows, and oiu' experience in handling horses wairants us in recommending it a good one : Hitch your kicker by the side of a well broke horse, procure a strong half mch cord fifteen or eighteen feet in length, pass it around the horse's neck, get the size', tie your bowline knot, slip it over the head, and well down toward the shoulder, then take hold of the cord below, pass it through the loop, between the neck and cord, and place the running loop into his mouth, same as for bitting ; then at- tach the long foot strap to the ankle of the inside forward foot, carry the other end back between the girth and bocfy, into the wagon; alsoyourcord. Get some friend to ride with you the first time, he driving the team, you handling the cord and foot 60 strap. If he attempts to kick, take his foot from him, give him a sudden pull ^ith the cord. We have broken some of the worst kind in a very few days by adopting this plan. You have a powerful controlling influence over them, as they can nei- ther run nor kick. Try it. Ho^v to use a Bailky Horse. If ever we felt that the horse deserved the phil- anthroi)ic sympathy of man, it has been when we have seen a man ignorant and brutal in his own nature trying to move a balky horse. We will have been amply repaid, and will have certainly given every one who buys this book a rich equiva- lent for his money, if by its perusal we induce a more civilized mode of treatment. We are to re- member that balking is an acquired habit, and not from any disinclination on his part to pull. We know that some men will take the very best pulling horse, and in a short time make him balk, simply from mismanagement. It is not the dull, indolent horse which balks, but the high-spirited and firey horse of blood and mettle ; this is so be- cause those who undertake to drive them do not understand them. Notice which horse of a team it is that balks, and you will mostly find it to be the one of the highest mettle. He hears the command to go, and, bemg mo^ ready to obey than the other, he springs off 5 but, not being able to start the Avagon, he is thrown back on his haunches, stopping the other as well as himself. Gl The di^ver wliooi)S aud suaps his whip, and by the time that the slower horse has started, the free horse has. made another effort, failed, and now both are balked. Both horses recognize that something- is wrong, and neither knows what. They are alike afraid to move. Then the driver plies the whii), whoops and slaps the lines, all of which only tend to make the matter worse. This has been seen by almost every person. The horse was willing to go, but did not know how to move the load j and we ask any sensible man to tell us if the horse should be beaten for not doing that which he did not know how to do. You can make a horse do almost anything which he can fully understand; and we do contend that by i>roper education any balking horse can be start- ed in a few minutes. Some have adopted the plan of buckling a strap to the ankle of one forward foot, standing in front, and by pulling the foot forward the collar i)resses against the shoulder, and he will move. Others have adopted the plan of throwing a handful of sand in his eyes, but to this plan, though it succeeds, we are bitterly op- posed. We would sooner own a balky than a blind horse. If you get hold of a horse that has been long in the habit of balking, just set apart a day for his education. Go into some pasture field, hitch your horse to a light load, something that he can move easily. If he refuses to pull, get a half inch cord ten feet in lengtli, tie it around his neck and 62 loop it forward into his month, jnst as recommend- ed for halter-breaking. Step to one side, give him a sudden pnll and he will move *a step to- Avards you. Step to the opposite side ; give him another sudden pull -, by repeating it ten or twelve times he will start T^illingly. Then increase your load, and if he refuses to pull use the cord as above. We have seen the worst of ballsy horses in three hours time made perfectly kind— to pull in any spot or place. The plan is simple. And why is it so effectual ? There is nothing you can place in a horse's mouth by which you can control him with such ease. The cord is*^ placed around his neck, and brought forward into his mouth, and by a sudden pull with the other end it is am^vn suddenly across his tongue, comes m con- tact with the nerve of his lower jaw, which he can- not long endure, and he willingly moves off. If ^it any future time he should show any symptoms of balking, a lesson vrith the cord is all that is necessarv. Mow toUrcaLc a IIiilie2-I*iillei-. Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that it will not di-aw tight around his nose 5 if he pulls on it, it should be of right size to fit his head easily and nicely, so that the nose band will not be too tight or too low. Is^ever put a rope halter on an unbroken colt, or a horse that is in the habit of pulling at the halter, under any circumstances whatever. Thev have caused more G5 iioi-tscs to hurt or kill themselves thau woiikl par tor twice the cost of all the leather halters that ever were needed for the purpose of halteriug- colts. It is almost impossible to break a horse of the vice with a rope halter. He will pull, rear aud throw himself, aud thus endanger his life. And we will tell you why. It is just as natiu'al for a. horse to try to get his head out of anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as it would be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire. The cords of the rope are hard and cutting j this makes him raise his head, and draw on it j and as soon as he pulls, the slip-noose (the way the rope halters are always made) tightens and i)inches his nose, and then he will struggle for life. Who would run the risk of a fine horse breaking his neck rather than pay the price of a leather halter ? If you have a horse that, from mismanagement, has acquiied the habit of pulling at the halter, place your leather halter on his head; the strap you hitch him with, have it twenty feet in length. You may hitch him in a stall, or to a post outside, or any place where he is in the habit of pulling. If ift a stall, run the end of yoiu^ rein through the hole in the man- ger, then back through the ring of the halter ; and as you pull it through the ring bring his head within two feet of the manger, then between his forward legs, and make fast to the ankle of his left fore foot. AYe think you can see clearly theie is no possible chance for him to break his halter, or get loose. If he makes an attempt to pull. hack ke brings Ms left hind foot forward under tlie body, is fearful lie will fall, and steps forward m a moment. After lie lias made tlie attempt to brealv his baiter tbree or four times, you may take any object, bowever frightful, and hold it in a I)Ositionto frighten him, and he will not make an eifort to pull back. We have seen the worst of the kind effectually broken of the vice in thirty minutes. Anotlier and Hettei* l*l»n fov Brealcing- a, Malter-i*iaier. Lead your horse to a place most convenient for hitching him. It don^t matter whether to a post, in the stall, or elsewhere. Place a common strap halter upon his head, then i)rociu^e a piece of rein webbing fifteen feet in length, or a strap one and a fourth inch wide, of same length ; get the cen- tre of said webbing or strap. Kow buckle a com- mon web surcingle around his body, just back of the shoulder, then lay your webbing across his )iips, carry one end forward, between the surcin- gle and body, on the left side, the opposite end between the surcingle and body, on the off side of the colt, the centre rests across his hips, the ends carried forward. Take th^. centre of the webbing in your right hand, give it one turn over, that leaves it crossed ui^on his hips ; carry the centre and pass his tail through the loop yott made by turning the centre of the webbing over, the same as cruppering with harness. Step for-^ ward, reach your left baud through under the 65 horse^s neck, take hold of the end of webbing on the off side 5 with your right hand take the end on the left side, bring the two ends together un- der the neck, and tie them around the chest. Then carry the end of your tie strap through the ring in manger, or some point where he has been in the habit of pulling ; bring back and make fast to the webbing that passes around the chest. Your hal- ter-puller now is in the right position ; if he re- fuses to pull, induce him to do so by frightening him in some manner. Our experience with halter pullers warrants us in saying this plan is lasting and effectual. You can hitch him in the stall, let him remain in that position through the night. He can lie down, get up,and move around the stall without injimng himself in any way. Hitch him each day at different points where he has been in the habit of pulling, after which you need have no fears of his breaking a common halter- A RunaTFay, Bolting, ©r Pliiiig^ing* Horse. This is a very dangerous vice, one accompanied with a great amount of danger to limb and life. If the horse, when making an effort to run, be- comes very ^vild and desperate, and in bolting", would jump off some bridge or precipice, it is highly necessary to have some means of control- ling him, and to bring him to a sudden stop. To accomijlish this, use the cord with small loop plac- ed aroimd the under jaw of the horse; the other end is carried over his neck, brought back, and 66 passed througli tlie small loop attached to the un- der Jaw, and tlience back into the wagon. The running loop over the horse's neck should be kept well back to his shoulder. Kow prepare two long foot straps, and attach the end with short strap to the ankle of each forward foot. The other ends ])ass through between the girth and body of the horse, outside of the traces and into the wagon. Hold your long foot straps and cord in your hand with the reins, then drive him along in places where he would be most apt to scare. If he at- tempts to run or bolt, give him a strong pull with the cord, at the same time say (with firmness) ''what are you doing, sir?" go 'long." That may cause him to straighten up, and perhaps give him a sudden start ; if so, give him another pull, and say, "carefully, sir !" If the second pull does not check his speed, and you think he may get tlie best of you, then is the time to pull on the foot straps 5 take his feet from him, and drop him to his knees, pronouncing the word whoa. That brings him to a stop without any failure. Now ease up on your foot straps ; do not hold him by the feet after dropping him to his knees, for in so doing he would be likely to struggle, fall over, and perhaps break your shafts. Again start him, if he attempts the same move, take his feet and bring him to a stop. He will not attempt the same move but a few times. There is nothing that will so frighten a horse, as to think he is going to be pitched on his head. The plan will eifectually 67 conquer and subdue that wilful disposition. Aft^r driving him. a few times with both w^ebs, you may then feel safe to drive him with one. Every few days repeat the lesson with cord, and one long foot stra]3 ; a lesson each day for a few days will produce the desu^ed result. The same i)lan is adopted with colts that are in the habit of running, and kickiug at dogs, hogs, pieces of paper flying in the street, and the like. They are constantly on the lookout for such objects, and the driver or owner is never safe. Place the cord as recom- mended above, into the mouth, and the webbing to the foot, or both if necessary ; for our experi- ence in handling horses has convinced us that some horses have the streng*th, und will to run a foiuth of a mile on three feetj that is the reason why (in some cases) we use the long strap attach- ed to both feet. In that case you disconcert them at once. If the colt is very headstrong when frightened, place the webbing to both forward feet, and cord in the mouth. Also with open bridle, so he can see all around him. Take a dog into the wagon with you j as you are driving quietly along toss the dog out on the same side you are driving your colt. If lie attempts to kick and run, give him a sudden pull with the cord ; at the same time take his feet from him, saying ivhoa. Get out, pat and caress him ; then repeat it again. A tew lessons will break him. Pawing iu the 8 tall. Get a common trace chain, about two feet long f fasten it to tlie leg that he i^aws with, just above the knee, with a hame strap, and let the chain swing to the side of the leg. He will soon be glad to keep it still. Kicking iu the .^tall. Some horses acquire this vice from mere irrita bility, and uneasiness in the stall. If the horse kicks with but one foot he can be broken, very easy, by attaching a wooden clog to the ankle of the foot that he kicks with. If with both feet, take the saddle part of a harness, and buckle on tightly ; then take a short strap, with a ring and buckle around the forward foot, below the fetlock ; to this strap attach another strap ; bring ui>, and pass through the turrets down to the hind foot, below the fetlock. With this attachment on each side, the moment that he kicks he will pull his forward feet from under him, which brings himto his Iftiees, and he will be careful not to do so very often. Let him stand in the stall iu this way until he gives up the foolish habit. Vicious Biters. If he is a stallion, with the contirmed habit of biting and striking at your approach, we can give you but little encouragement. We vrould not think it worth while to attempt to brealv him, but would advise you to castrate him at once. How 'ever, we liave l^ouglit several bad biting stallions, and effectually cured them of the vice while in our possession j but on the approach of a stranger, they would show more or less viciousness. I have known owners of such horses to whip them until they would tremble in every joint, and were (seem- ingly) almost ready to di'op, but have never, in a single case, known them cured by such treatment. In twenty minutes he is as determined as ever to renew the combat 5 he seems unable to resist the temptation ; I sometimes think it a species of in- sanity. If you have a mare or gelding in posses- sion of the vice, you can easily cure them. Plaee the small loop of the cord round the under jaw, with running looj) over the neck; have the small loop fit so close a2?ound the jaw t3iat he canuot spit it out, also under the tongue ; the other end carry out of the stall, and hang on the peg where you hang your harness. Kaw^ as j^ou step uj) tp the stall, take hold of the cord with one hand, the other, phice on his quarter, and say, "stand over,'* if he attempts to frisk, or bite at you, give him a sudden pull, and say, ^'take care, sir !" then pass into the stall ; if he again attempts to bite at you, give him another sharp ]3uU, saying, ^'what are you doing, sir !" Give him a few lessons of this kind and a cure is i)erformed. Bad to Briflle, Harness, or Qroom. A horse that is bad to bridle, is generally one that is tender about the ears ; those bad to gToom 70 or harness, are naturally very sensitive skinned, A sharp curry comb is very irritating, and in the act of harnessing, should there be a sore or chafed six)t, it creates a spasmodic, nervous movement of the skin. Such horses can easily be broken of the vice by the use of the cord. Place the long loop around the ne«k, with running loop in the mouth, as for bitting. Stand by the shoulder, give him a sharp pull with the cord, at the same time repeating some word, such as " whoa, boy,^ "' be careful,^' *' be quiet," or the like 5 now step to his side, pat and caress him about the head, neck and shoulders. Steadily pull the cord through the mouth with your right hand ; with your left softly handle his ears until he becomes quiet. A few times bridling with the cord will cure him of the vice. For grooming or harnessing, use the cord the same. If he will not stand quiet to be harnessed or gTOomed, a few sharj) i^ulls to the right and left will bring him to a surrender. Use the cord each time for a few days, and he will be- come docile and quiet. Rolling: 1m tlie Stall. In the first place break your horse from rolling in the stable, for it is a habit that cannot be in- dulged in without a chance of being east. Some horses will get cast, bruised, and half strangled, yet he will roll again the next night, and continue to as long as he lives. Our plan to break up this habit is to place a thin, soft pad under the sur «Dingle, with sharp nails so arranged that they will rnn through the pad, and prick him, when he at- tempts to rolL €^ettiii€: CsLst in the «tall. If there is anything that will vex, and irritate the proprietor of a stable, it is to have some one of his horses getting cast in the stall. Every night a thimdeiing noise is heard, and some one calls out, '^ you have a horse cast" Up he gets^ hurriei? to the stable, and with a gTcat deal of hard labor they finally succeed in getting the horse tG his feet, stiff, and badly galled. Observe the follow- ing and you will have no such trouble : Place on your horse a- five ring strap halter, (a five ring halter he cannot slip) where the strap comes over^ the head, just back of the ears, attach a one and a-half inch ring ; do not slip the top piece through the ring ; you must make it fast, so it will not slip to the right or the left ; get a strap four inches long, one inch and a quarter wide, set youi' ring- in the centre of the strap that comes over the top of his head, then run the four inch strap through the ring, stitching both ends, lea.ving the ring fast in the centre ; with the tie strap of your halter, make fast to the ring of the manger, leave suffi- cient length to put his nose within one foot of the floor. Over his head, and in the floor above, at- tach a staple and ring ,♦ now put his nose within one foot of the floor, and get the distance from the 3ing in the top of the halter to the ring in the sta» 72 pie above^ about a foot back from the manger, Tlie horse has the liberty to lie dowii^ but cannot lay his head side wise : consequently he cannot get cast The above never fails. I^riTing^ on One Rein. Even the angles of the mouth, with the bitting cord. Then keep the blinders up so that he can- not see the driver, for this is often the cause — he is often watching back with one eye, and carry- ing his head to that side, constantly pulling upon the opposite rein. Oftentimes it is caused by the grinders being sharp ; if so, file them off.. Hard Pullers. It is often remarked, and hj horsemen, too, if iyou have a hard i)uller upon the bit,, give him all the road he wants, and let him go. If he goes too fast, jerk him up, first with one line, then with the other. I have known some hard pullers,, by giv- ing them the rein and all the road they wanted,, would run until they would falL and repeat the same thing day after day. The idea is perfectly absurd j it will amount to nothing but a broken down constitution. Let me speak of a simple plan by which you can control such horses at I)leasure. Get a common snaffte bit, around which weld two iron rings one inch and a-half in diameter ; the bit is now placed in the horse's mouth, with rings slipped close to the cheek bars ; get a half-inch strap, ten inches in length, with billet buckle and loop attached to each end, same as for buckling check reins in bits^ now place it across the horse's nose, and buckle each end into the rings that are welded around the bit. That brings the rings very close each side of the upi)er jaw 5 stitch to the centre of the strax) across the nose, one end of another half-inch strap eighteen inches long ; to the other end attach the buckle on the top of the bridle and between the ears. This is to keep the nose piece from dropping over the nostril; the bit is now arranged. Place your horse between your shafts ; buckle your reins and start him along. Drive him with a slack rein as long as he is quiet ; if he attempts to go very fast pull ui)on the lines. As you pull, the rings a- round the bit crowd with more force against the sides of the face, throwing his mouth wide open, and causing the most excruciating pain. Drive him a few days with a bit so arranged, after which any boy twelve years of age can drive him vdth perfect ease. Tongue O^cr the Bit« Attach to your bridle a cheek bit, as follows : — Procure a small steel bar bit. A small one, so the cheek bars will sit close each side of the horse's face. To this bit buckle checks and cheek pieces of bridle : through this bit drill two holes, leav- ing a space between, and in the centre, of two inches and a half; get a thick piece of harness leather six inches long ; cut it in the form of a 74 diamond, two and a half inches wide, with ends iounded off to a point. The centre of this piece of leather is doubled over the bit, with edges just covering the two holes; it is now stitched togeth- er across, and close to the bit j also edges of points are stitched firmly together, as the bit is placed in the mouth, the rounded points of the leather run baer- haps two men at each end, they pull on the rope, and the horse is thrown back ui^on his haunches. We have seen fine horses so injm-ed across the loins by adopting this plan of throwing them, that they were never again ftfc for use. . Another plan is to put a pair of tongs upon his nose, then a rope to the ankle of one of his bind feet, and through a ring made fast to his tail ; his foot is drawn back ; and made fast to the side of the shop. Now, we ask any man if there is any common sense in emploj^ng such means by which to shoe a wild horse. If a horse struggles, which he ]h sure to do, he must get badly injured. In shoe- ing a bad horse, never confine him. Get a small 76 eord about ten feet in lengtli, place it aronnd his neck and into liis mouth, just as recommended for halter breaking, balking, &c. All it will cost you is five cents, and by its use you enn shoe the worst of the kind without trouble. In attempting to raise the foot, if the horse should rear or at- tempt to kick, let go the foot and give him a sud- den pull with the cord ; then pat him on the neck, saying, " Ho ! boy ; ho ! boy f then bold the cord in your hand, and with the right pick up his foot. If he does not stand quiet, put his foot down, and .give him two or three sudden pulls with the cord. Handle him in that manner ten minutes, and he will not dare to move. Smiths in many places have said they would not be deprived of the use of the above plan for one hundred dollars. For Teacliing' a Hor^iie lo Bmclc, or a Horse tlisit is in the Habit ol* Bolting:, The cord is all that is necessary for teaching your horse to back. Plac^ a pair of them around his neck and into his mouth, one on each side. Get behind your horse, and you can teach him to back at the word in twenty minutes. For a bolt- ing horse, use but one. If he is in the habit of bolting to the right, place the cord on the left side, and back into the wagon. If to the left, place it on the right side of the neck and into the wagon ; and when he attempts to bolt, a sudden pull will bring him in the right direction. Drive liim with a cord a short time, and he in brokeu of tlie vice. To educate him to tlie word " Wlioa," a little pull, accomi)anied with the words^ " Ho ! hoy," is all that is necessary, aud he will obey YOU. 'Flic Plan for a Breacliy Horse. A hreachy horse is oue that costs a farmer a great amount of time and trouble. He goes to the i)asture field, but is never sure of finding him where he perhaps left him the evening previous. Mr. Cole's Xjlan, by which to prevent a horse from jumpiug, is to i)lace a leather surcingle tight around his. body, with inch ring under the chest, fastened to the surcingle ; also, a strap one inch wide, eight inches in length, buckled around the ankle of the left hind foot, with ring attached ; a strap one inch wide, three and a half or four feet in length, (the leugth of this strap is governed according 'to the size of the horse,) one end buckled ui the ring under the chest, the other end to the ring attach- ed to the ankle. If the horse should attemj^t to jump, placed in such a position, he deprives him- self of the use of the left hind foot, has not power in the right, sufficient to rise — consequently he mnst fail in his attempt. In most cases the plan l^roves quite eflfectual. To improve this surcingle, and prevent its work- ing back, attach another ring to front edge, and under chest j to this ring attach another strap as follows : procure a strax) one inch and a-half wide and two feet long j split this strap in the centre t© ' 78 TTithiu four luches of one end, being the same as the crotch end of an old fashion standing martin- gale ; the wide end is passed through the ring un- der the cliest, with two inch lap, and stitched fast, eight inches fi'om the ends of split strap ; a buckle is made fast, leaving a billet eight inches in length. ^Now bring one of the split straps around the left arm outside ; carry it back between the forward legs, pass the eight inch billet through tke ring under the chest, again forward, drawing up the slack and buckling fast ; the other part of split strap is carried around the nigh arm of the horse, and made fast same as left one. You see the horse has the privilege of Avalking around the pasture, but cannot easily trot or run, and should he attempt to jump, in the act of raising forward, those^straps tighten, he has no use of his forward legs, and is disconcerted at once. I have known horses fail to jump a fence four rails high, with that simple attachment. IIo^v to Catcli a .Horse in I*as»turc. The i)revailing opinion of horsemen generally is, that the sense of smell is the governing sense of the horse, and that no means can be employed by Avhich to catch a wild horse in pasture without the use of strong smelling oils. Sullivan, Faucher, avS well as others, have got up receipts of strong smelling oils, to catch and tamo a wild horse — sometimes using the castor of his leg, which they dry, grind into a powder, and blow into his nos- 79 ifils; sometimes using the oil of rhodium, cum- mill, and organum, that are noted for their strong- smell ; and sometimes they scent the hands with the sweat fi'om under their arms, and blow their ])reath into his nostrils ; all of which, as far as the scent goes, have no effect whatever in gentle- ing or subduing the horse, or conveying any idea to his mind, though the work that accompany theseefforts— rhandling him, touching him about the nose and head, and patting him, as they di- rect you should after administering the article, will have a very gTeat effect, which tliey mistake for the effect of the ingredients used. By using the oils, you can approach a wild horse in pasture, and, after caressing him for a length of time, get your halter on his head, but when you attempt to lead him, he is off' as wild as ever. Faucher, in his work entitled The Arabian Art of Taming Horses, page 17, tells us how to achoe — making the heel of the shoe twice the thick- ness of the toe. The hind shoe made short, nai'- row web, and very light, with toe twice the thick- ness of the heel. Placing the heavy shoes to the forward feet will cause him to lift his feet with more energy ; also the heel of his forward feet. and the toe of his hind feet, will so reverse the action that in the majority of cases they will travel clear. Ittterferiiig- Avitli tlie Hind Feet. I think we can safely say that more than half of the horses now in use are animals that cut their ankles, and it is a great objection. A horse of that kiftd is rejected by many dealers, but we argue that if they are i^roperly shod the cause can be removed. The habit that smiths in general have of leaving the inside of the toe twice the 'thickness of the outer side is all wrong. The shoe should be narrow web, and very light, each side ot the same thickness. The toe calk should be weld- ed to the toe one-half inch inside of the centre leading the inside of said calk the highest. Heel »ealks the same height. By so doing, the outside of the ^oe is one inch longer than the inside. It is now necessary to pare the outside of the foot the lowest. Your shoe is now made fast to the foot with five nails, three on the outside and two on the inner ; also tltree clips, one at the toe and one at each side. InterfVriiig- T^itli ForM'ard Feet. We have known valuable horses,, and fast trot- ting horses, to cut their ankles inside of the leg^ and quite (rften the knee — and badly, too — with the shoe of the opposite foot, and we think the plan we adopt a good one. The outer web of the s^hoe should be narrow and light, the inner wide and heavy, with the outside of the hoof pared the lowest. When all other plans have failed this has. provee^t, and so contiiuie until he brings the head down the mo- ment he sees the least motion of your hand to- wards his brea-st; or substitute some signal whicli he will understand readilv. 91 To Say Z\o. Stand by your horse near the shoukler^holdhig the same pin in your hand, with which prick him lightly on the withers, and to relieve himself he will shake his head. You then caress him as be- fore, and so repeating, until he will shake his head at the least indication of your touching him with the pin. You can train your horse so nicely iu this way in a short time as to cause him to shake his head, or bow, by merely tirrning the hand a little, or moving it slightly towards him. To t.ie I>oTni. To teach a horse how to do this tiick quickly, you must lay him down two or three times, or as often as you will find it necessary to make him understand your object. If an old horse, strap the near foreleg up to the arm, then take your lit- tle strap, previously used to tamper your colt with , and jylsLce over the back and strap around the off fore foot, below the fetlock. Then take the bridle rein firmly in yoiu- left hand, about eighteen inch- es from the head, and pull upon it a little towards you. The moment he st^ps, pull upon the strap over the body, which will bring the horse to his knees. Hold him quietly, at the same time talk- ing to him gently. When he springs, pull sliarp- ly with the left hand, and the same instant X)ull down with the right, which will sv^anghim around you, and prevent his rising high enough to injure his knees by the momentum of the botly coming 92 down. By being gentle, the horse will usually lie down in a short time. When down, treat your horse with the greatest attention and kindness. After holding him down ten or fifteen minutes, permit him to get up. Repeat this lesson until he will come down readily. Then use only the strap over the back, which have on the near foot, and bring him on his knees gently, when he will soon lie down. When he will come on his knees readi- ly by taking up the foot in this way, take up the foot with the hand, asking him to lie down. He will soon come down. When he will come on his knees readily by taking up the foot with the hand, simply stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, " lie down, sir." Then make him come down by a motion of the hand, and finally by telling him to lie down. If a colt, use but the single strap over the body at first, which will cause him to come on his knees. In teaching a horse to lie down — be gentle, caress, and reward him for lying down, and your horse, comprehend- ing what you want, and finding himself paid for comi)liance, will soon be as anxious to get down for the reward as vou are to have him. To Sit Up. When your horse will lie down readily, you can then easily teach him to sit up like a dog. If young, and not very heavy and strong, you can easily prevent his getting up, without tjing down. First cause him to lie down, having on him a common .93 bridle, with the reins over the neck, then step be hind him, and x)lac^ the right foot firmly upon the tail, the reins in your hands. Then say, " get up, sir." The horse, rising from a recumbent position^ first upon his belly, thro>YS out his forward feet, and raises himself ui)on them, springs forward, and raises on his hind feet. Kow, standing upon his tail firmly, and ])ulling ba€k upon the reins when he attemi)ts to spring forAvard and up, will prevent his doing so, and you hold him sitting up, Hold him firmly a few seconds, talking to him kindly, before permitting him to rise on his feet. Bepeat a few times, when, instead of spiinging up, lie will sit on his haunches a short time, wliicli you are to accept as complying with your wishes. Always say, " sit up sir," every time, and hold him in the position as long as he will bear, by fondling him, and feeding him from the hand with some- thing he likes, and your horse will learn to sit up for you as long as you please. But if your horse is heavy, and strong, it will be necessary to rcvsort to other means to hold him down at first. This you do by putting on his neck a common collar, and causing him to lie down. Then fosten a piece of rope, or a rein, to each hind foot, and bring forward through the collar, and draw up close, which will bring the hind feet well forwaril. Then step behind, as before, and when he attempts to rise on his hind feet he finds it im- possible to do so, because you hold them firmly with those straps. Kei>eat two or three time»». 04. Vt hen it will not be necessary to resort to such force. To Teacli a Horse to Kiss You. Tea^li him first to take an apple out of your hand. Then gradually raise the hand nearer the mouth, at each repititioUj until you re. quire him to take it from your mouth, holding it with the hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. He will soon learn to reach up his nose to your mouth ; first to get his api>le, but finally because commanded to do so. Simply repeat un- til Your horse understands the trick thoroucfhlv. To .^lftali:e Hands. Tie a short strap, or piece of cord, to the for- ward foot, below the fetlock. Stand directly be- fore the horse, holding the end of this strap or cord in your hand, then say, " shake hands, su','' and, immediately after commanding him to do so, pull upon the strap, which will bring his foot for- ward, and which you are to acceiit as shaking hands, thanking him for it by caressing and feed- ing. And so repeat, until wlien-you make the de- mand he will bring the foot forward, in anticipa- tion of having it i)idled up. This is a veiy easy trick to teach a horse. By a little practice a horse may be easily trained to approach, make a bow, shake hands, and follow^ like a dog, lie down, sit up, and the like, which make him appear both po- lite and intelligent. 95 Kever lose couragej or coiilidencc in your ability becanse you may not bring about good result.s easily. To accomplish anything of importance^ remember, requires no ordinary resolution, and pei'severeiice. There would be no credit, or im- portance, attached to mastering and managing bad horses, if not difficult, and apparantly dan- gerous. No duty requires more firmness of pur- pOvSe in the control of the passions, or more fidel- ity to the principles of firmness and truth, than that of horsemanship. If you would really be a successful horseman you must never seem to forget, by your conduct, that J ou are a man, and that your real superiority over the animal consists in the prudent exercise of your reasoning powers. Brute force in not your forte, and the instant that you give way to passion your reason must yield to the control of blind instinct, and you at once abdicate your in tellectual superiority over the animal. Try to prove, by the example of your action in the per formance of the duty, that to be a good horseman requires higher qualifications of fitness than tliat of the huckstering dishonesty, and depravity, so generally evinced in the conduct of those claimiug the distinction. llon^' to T'cll a IIorj$e^» Ag-e. At two years old, Colt sheds two centre nippers. At three years old, Colt sheds the adjoining teethe At four years old, Colt sheds outer or corner teeth. 06 At live years old, bridle tooth is up, and six year* €ups leave two centre teeth below. At seven years old cups leave adjoining teeth. At eight years old cups leave outer or corner teeth. At nine years old, cups leave the tw<^ centre nip- pers above. At ten years old cui)s leave adjoining teeth. At eleven years old,cups leave corner upper teeth. At twelve years old, or j^ast, groove on inside i>f briddle tooth disappears in horses. >[ares very seldom have them, and when they do they are no criterion to be guided by. JToclccy Tricks. IfoLC tt) male a horse appear like he was badly foundered. — Take a fme wire and fasten tight around a]ikle,between foot and pasturn,and smooth linir over it. In twenty minutes horse will show lame. Do not leave it on over nine hours. To mal'e horse lame— Take a single hair from the iail, put through the eye of a needle, lift front fore leg, and i)ress the skin between outer and suiddle tendon or cord, shove the needle tlirough, cut the hak'oif on each side, and let the foot down; horse will go lame in twenty minutes. How to malce a horse stand hy his food^ and not take i<^— Grease tlie front teeth, and theroof of the mouth, with common beef tallaw, and lie will not eat till you wash it out. Tliis in connection with the above, will consummate a perfect founder. 97 lioic to stop a horse of the crib, or Sueliny Wind — Saw between the upper teeth to the gums. Row to put a young countenance on a horse — Make a small iucisiou in the sunk place o^er the •eye, insert the point of a goose quill, and blow it up J close the external wound with thread, and it is done. To cover up the heaves- — Drrive. Take a well-bred Shepherd Dog, about six months old, reared in some secluded i)lace, hear- ing no words with a meaning intended to be at- tached, except his name. He should know no- thing of the ordinary words in use towards dogs, and not have be^n handled by boys, or careless persons. Take him alone with you in a large room. The first thing to be done is to learn him to lead, placing a strap around his neck, that cannot hurt him, to which attach a cord six or eight feet in leng-th ; stand stillj and hold upon the cord for a few minutes, until he ceases struggling to get 103 ;rtway. It is best to give one lesson each day dm ing tlie wliole training. The first two lessons should be devoted to learning him that he eannot get away. Now, commence learning liim to come to youj by pulling upon the roi)e, and saying, **Here," using only the one word. In tlie use of ' (his, as well as all other words used in training the dog, one word i« all tliat is best to try a^rt learn him for any one act, it being so difficult to make him understand, if yon attempt to learn him more. When he is once fixed in the habit of mind- i ing the word, you may then use such other word^ in connection therewith, as are pleasant to thi^ ear, as, for instance, '^come here, sir." Without the word liere he will not know what you mean, and the others being meaningless to him, do not puzzle him. He will also be less liable to have too many masters, as the one word will not be likely to be used every time by a person unac- . (juainted with your mode of training. Of course, if you i^refer it, you may, in giving the lesson, .substitute other words for those laid down ; but we give those which are readiest to the tongue. As the dog comes uj), whether voluntarily or not .say "Do," and caress him. A lesson of an hour or two, working slowly and patiently, w ill be about right, eacli time. Proceed with it until he will come -to you from any portion of the room, at the word " Here." He will liave learned by this time, probably, that the word "Do," is for him to .understand that you are through with him, W hen Jje perfectly realizes this, you may tbeiLprefi.^:: words, and say "tliat will do," empliasizing upoi)^ tlie word do each time. You may also now say,, " come liere," remembering that the words het'e and do are the only ones he obex's. He camiot (M3nnect sentences, or be made to understand them when once connected. You now wish to learn him the words ''Go," and "Halt." To do this you will plaice yourself in a portion of the room opposite to. where the dog would naturally desire to go, (the door, for instance, or something that would attract liim, such as food,) say ''Go," and by coaxing and urging him, start him along; as he gets part of the way, say "Halt,"^ pull upon the string, stop- ping liim, and say "Halt" again. Proceed with, this until he has learned to obey both the words, "Go," and "Halt." To teach those four words named, will generally take three or four weeks. . iS^ow learn him to bark at the word "Speak," by holding w^ something which he wants very much, for instance, food, when he is very hungry. You may now let him loose, and let him run about with you, (previously keeping him confined, but not in a narrow place,) being watchful that he does not stray off, nor be hurt, or handled by others. He will soon become handy about the house. You Iluviiig control of him through the words you have taught him. can keep him in his place by word of •:omnuind. For instance, if you wish him to go out of doors, show him the door^ and say, "Gcn ont:' The word "go" will start him, and in a lit 105 tie while he will become familiar with the word ''out.'' Give hira a fixed place to sleep and learn him its name. If you have a dog already trained to drive, and go behind, take him out with him to drive in the cattle. He will learn that they will nin from him. Say nothing to him while he is with the other dog, unless he attempts to go to the head of any of the cattle. This you must not^nl- low. After two or three times take him out with- out tlie other dog, and allow him to run after the cattle, provided the cattle are used to be- ing driven by dogs. It will not do to let him run where there is a chance of his being turned upon. If he runs them too fast, say "Steady."'^ He wilV' not know what you mean, but, as you use words with him only *when they mean something, he will be apt to pay attention, and go slower. If lie does not, say ''Halt," then "Go," steadying him by the word "Steady" if possible. He will grad- ually learn its meaning by its repetition. If you have no other dog, you will let him go without, l)eing more watchful of him, that he does not go to the head of the cattle ; otherwise say nothing to him, except "Go," not letting him start until he gets the word. After a while you may proceed to practice upon the other words he knows. If he shows no disposition to bite at the heels, or pull at the tail, take a rope, and tie a knot a short dis- tance up, finger out the end, and play with him with the rope, letting him catch hold of it, and causing him to bark at it by using the word 106 **speak,'' When lie takes hold of the rope, say ^'Up," and wheu you wish him to let go, "Do." Yon may then, with a slow cow, civll him up, and taking hold of the tail, say "Up," and "Speak*" to teach him to take hold of the tail and bark, when you say, "Start 'em up," and "Speak to them," sind to let go when you say "That will do." Istbw ^icc^stom him to the word "Fetch," for sheep, and '*Clet," for cattle^ &c., so that when you say "Go and get the cattle," he knows you mean cattle in- stead of sheep or horses. You may now teach him to know the right from the left, and to obey your orders in that respect, by taking him into a large room, and by the motion of your right hand try to have him go to the right, from you, saying •i^Go,— right,^ If he does not do it, say "Halt," and repeat. When he does do it, say "That will do." Continue this luitil he will go to the right at the motion of your hand, and the word "Eight," then with your left hand making motions, and the word "Left,-- you learn him the opposite. By these motions, and an appeal to the intelligence of tlie dog, 1)y your countenance mul eyes, you can -og-. Many amusing tricks may be taught which will exhibit in a wonderful degree the intelligence of the dog: As we have before said, much depends upon the breed. A dog of one peculiar breed may be learned a certain class of tricks, while that of another breed will be entirely different in his characteristics. A well bred dog is hard to learn any tiicks except those pertaining to his nature : wltilf a mongrel cur is quite easy to learn any. Perhaps a 8|)aniel -poodle dog is the most tracta- ble of any, a Black-and-Tan is quite apt. We give a few examples, sufficient to forn) a ground- work for the intelligent operator to extend his list of tricks at his pleasure. Xlie First Ktep to be Xiiken. ^^'hen you are preparing the dog to receive his lirst lesson, it is necessary to place him where you can control him. Procure a ])\ouo of cord ten feet long, and one-fourth of au inch iu diameter, tie a knot in each end — one that will not slip. Takeoue 100 end, place it around the dog'ts ueck, to get the size, then tie another knot, and again place it around his neck, slipping 4he end with knot through, and make fast. The proi)er way of train- ing him is with a whip, a small riding whip. In giving him his fii'st lesson, should he attemi)t to run fi'om yea, (as he undoubtedly will), give him a sudden jerk, and say "Come here,'' a-s he comes back, talk gently, pat and caress him } that is to show him he has done right in coming back. A few pulls with the cord, and he will not attemi^t to leave you. T© Hiearu IliiR to Sit I>ot^t», Press your hand upon his back toward his hind legs and say, " sit down" at the same time tapping with your foot upon the floor. If he attempts to lie down or draw his feet under him, coax him up, and learn him that " sit down" is what you are after, tapping him under the chin to keep his head well up. He will after a few lessons, sit down at the word and a tapping of your foot on the floor, or with your whip, holding him by the cord, tap him lightly on the top of the qnarters saying^ " sit down," eaeh time a little harder until he sits dowii. then ]}at him to show ho has done right. To rHake a Sto\r. When he gets handy, and will sit down at the word, then say to him, " make a bow." This trick you can learn him in a very short time. A^ h»' no .sits down, place your riglit hand on the top of bis head, andAvith a quick move, press down saying^ '^ make a bow." By accompanying tlie Avord with the act, quite often, each day, for a few days, he will understand the word without tlie act, and obey readily. Xo I^k at the word and the snapping of the finger. To Staaid Up* Take some food in your hands, and offer it to liim, holding it well up, and say, '^ stand up." Re- peat this until he will stand up quite readily, holding out your imoccupied hand for him to sup- port his fore-feet on. Gradually take away your hand, each time, that he comes up, saying '' stand up," Tlien take him. by the forward feet, and lift Ill liiin up quite hard, and say, '' stand up/^ I'ow will soon get him so that when you lift him, ho will straighten np and show signs of standing ; then make the effort to learn him to stand up at tlie word, and the holding out of your hand. You may now combine this with the last trick, saying, '• sit ui^/' '' stand up/' That T\ill do. These are the first tricks he should be taught as they are the formation for others. To «et Into a Cliair. This is easily done, taking your own way to coax him into the chair, using the word " chair" whenever you cause him to get into it. When he becomes familiar with the word, accompanied with a motion of the hand towards a chair, you may use other words in connection therewith, '' go and get into the chair." After he will do this hand}% you may then learn liim to put his paws upon the back of the chair, by asking him " to put them up,'' or, saying up,'' assisting him at first. ^Vhcn he will do it readily, you may teach him to imt his head down upon his paws, by placing it tlieie^ and repeating the word '' down" of course cai'css ing him each time that he complies. To ha^c him hold up his head, tap him under the mouth antl say, '* up" remembering to say " that Avill do," when you are through the trick. You may leaiii him to jump over the chair by playluUy coaxing bim to do so, saying, jump. 112 To :»Iakc Him Go I^ame. Tap him with a little rod upon the hind foot say- ing, " lame," learning him to stand and hold it np whenever you say lame." Now coax him along, and if he i)uts it down, hit him quite smartly on the foot, making him. keep it up until he will go lame, at the word -and a motion of the rod. Now whenever you send him into the chair, as before, ?is he goes to jump down stop him, learning him to wait for the word " do," as he comes down with his fore-feet on the floor say, " steady," and learn him to stop with his hind legs uj) in the chair. He is now ready. — To IS.1121 on lii»For^v«i*n a low stool. You mav then learn him to '' take 1.13 •a seat^' ou the stool by leading him arouud by his forward feet, and sitting liim on the stool with hts forward feet held ui) saying^ " seat'' you then have him learned to go on all fours, and sit down on the stool, and to go on his hind feet and take a sear with his forward feet up. To I^earu Mliu to Fiiiti Tilings. Take something with which he is accustomed to play, and after getting him enlivened with play, call him up to you and blindfold him, and throw the article a short distance from you. If the dog- has good scent, tell him you have ^' lost" then re- move the blindfold and he will search and find it. Kepeat this, throwing it farther each time, until you can throw your knife or anything whicli you liave held in yoiir hanil, at a distance you looking in the direction and saying, " I havelost my knife." He will search unil he finds and brings it to you. If the dog has not good scent, learn him to look down at the word ^' find" and up at the word ^-up'^ doing as before. We have now given a suflicicnt number of examples to set forth the important julefi v>'hich govern the teaching of Dogs. By an ObsersTtUce of these, you may teach your dog to climb ladders, fetch things to you, carry baskets, loll over, lie down, shut doors, and an almost iu numerable number of tricks. To teacli tlie dog. however, you must have perfect control over youi temi^er, never wliip severely, never get out of ])a Sjence, M4 TURF CALENDER ^lora Temple, tke fastest trotting liorse in thty world ; was sired by One Eyed Hunter ; tlie pedi gree of her dam is not known. Flora is now twen- ty years old, 18G5 ; is owned by A. Welcli, Esq.y of Chestnut Hills, Philadephia 5 her best time was made at Kalamazoo, Oetober 15th, 1859, a full mile in 2 min. 19 3-4 sec*, which is the best time ever made by a trotting horse. She beat Geo. M.. Patchen, on the Union Course, in 2.21 j she beat Ethan Allen, and mate, in 2.20 1-2. Geo. M. Patchen trotted under the saddle, on Union Course, Nov. 21, 1859, in 2.24. Brown Dick beat Patchen in 2.25 1-4. Ethan Allen best time, single, was 2.25 1-2 ; trotted with a running mate, Sept. 5, 1861, on Fashion Course, in 2.19 3-4. The fastest time on record, for a three year.s old was made by Cora , in 2.37 3-4. Gen. Butler's best time was 2.21. Dexter beat him three straight heats, on the Fashion Course, Sept. 7, 1865 ; 2.26 1-2, 2.24 1-2, 2.22 1-2. Toronto Chief beat Vanderbilt, on the Fashion Course, Sept. 9, 1865, in 2.23, 2.27, 2.27 3-4. Van derbilt trotted one heat in 2.27 3-4. 115 The fastest running time on record, for a single mile, was made at Cincinnati, by Legal Tender in 1 min. 44 sec. The best time ever made in Eng- land is 1.39, made by Gladiator. It is said that Bay Middleton ran the same mile in 1.30, but there is no record of such time. Brown Dick made the best time for three mile heats, in 5.28. Pocahontas paced a full mile in 2.17 1-2, which is the best time on record. The greatest performance in double harness, on record, a 2.12 gait to road wag^n. Lady Palmer and riatbush Mare, driven by their owner, Mr. Bonner, taken out of his stable untrained, to a road wagon, in public, May 10th, 1862, one mile in 2.26 ; May 13th, two miles in 5.01 1-2, the second quarter of the second mile in 33 seconds, being a 2.12 gait to a road wagon. Since the TVTiting of this book Flora Temple's time has been beaten. Dexter in his great match against time on the fashion course, Oct. 10th, 1865, trotted a mile under saddle, in the unparallelled time of 2.18 1-5, 116 STABLE MANAGEMEKT. Tliis is a very important part of our subject^ even as it regards tlie farmer, altliougli there are comparatively few glaring errors in the treatment of the agricultural horse; but it comes more es- l)ecially home to the gentleman, who is too often, and too imi)licit]y, under the guidance of an idle, ignorant and designing groom. We will arrange tlie most important points of geuera] management under the following heads: * AIR. The breathing of pure air is necessary to the existence and health of man and beast. It is comparatively lately that this has been admitted es^en in the management of our best stables. They have been close, hot, and foul, instead of airy, cool and ^vliolesome. The stable should be as large, compared with the number of horses that it is destined to contain, as circumstances will allov,'. A stable for six horses should not be less than thirty feet in length, and thiity 4'oet Avide, If there is no loft above, the inside of the roof should always be plastered in order to prevent direct cur. rents of air and occasional drojjpings from broken tiles. The heated and foul air should esca])e, and cool, pure air be admitted, by elevation of the ceii_ tral tiles; or by large fjubes carried through the roof, with caps a little above them, to prevent the beating in of the rain ; or by gratings placed high 117 up in the walls. These latter apertures should be as far above the horses as they cau conveniently be plaecd, by which means all injurious draught will be prevented. If there is a loft above the stable, the ceiling should be plastered, in order to prevent the foul air from penetrating to the hay above, and injuring both its taste and its wliole- someness 5 and no opening should be allowed above the manger through which the hay may be thrown into them ; for they will permit the foul air to as- cend to the i)ro vender, and also in the act of fill- ing the mangers, and while the horse is eagerly gating ui^ward for his food, a grass seed may fall into the eye," and produce considerable inflamation. At other times, when the careless gTOom has left open the trai)-door, a cold stream of air beats down on the head of the horse. The stable with a loft over it should never be less than twelve feet liigh, and proper ventilation should be secured, either by tubes carried through the roof, or by gratings close to the ceiling. These gratings or openings should be enlarged or contracted by means of a covering or shutting, so that spring, summer, and autumn, [the stable may possess nearly the same temperature with the ©pen air, se, and accumulate ile«h and fat. CIEOOMINCi. Of this much need not be said to the agiicultur- ist, since custom, and apparently without ill effect, I»as allotted so little of the comb and brush to the farmer's horse. The animal that is worked all day, and turned out at night, rerpiires little more to be done to him than to have the dirt brushed off his limbs. Eegular grooming, by rciidering his skin more sensible to the attraction of temi)erature, and the inclemency of the weather, would be pre- judicial. The horse that is altogether turned out, needs no groonnng. The dandruff, or scruff, which accumulates at the roots of the hair, is a provision of initure to defend him from the wind and the cold. It is to the stabled horse, highly fed and little or irregularly worj^ed, tlnit grooming is of vSO iiiuch consequence. Good rubbing with the brush, or the curry-comb, opens tlie pores of the skin, circulates the blood to the extremities of the body, produces free and healtliy perspiration, and stands in the room of exercise, ^'"o horse will carry a fine coat ^^ itliout either unnatural heat or dressing. They both effect the same purpose; they both in- crease the insensible perspiration ; but the first does it at the expense of health and strength, while the second, at tlie same time that it produ- ces a qlovr on the skin, and a determination of 125 blood to it, lou.ses all the energies of the fraiiU'. It would 1)0 well for the pro])rietor of the horse if he were to insist and see that his orders are really obeyed, that the fine coat in which he and his groom .so much delight, is produced by hand rub- bing, and not by a heated stable and thick cloth- ing, and most of all, not by stimulating or injii- lious spices. The horse should be regularly dress- ed everyday, in addition to the grooming tluit is necessary after work. When the weather will permit the Jiorse to b^ taken out.lie should never be gi'oomed in the stable , u.nless he is an animal of i^eculiar value or placed for a tiijie under peculiar circumstances. Wit! i out dwelling cm the v^-ant of cleanliness, v\hen the scurf, and dust are brushed from the horse, lodge in his manger, and mingle with his food, experi- ence^ teaches, that if the cold is not too great the animal is braced an.d invigorated to a degree tluit cannot Ix^ attained in the stable, from being dress- ed in the op»en air. There is no necessity, hov, - ever, for half the punishment which many a groom iniiicts upon the horse in the act of dressing; and particularly (tu one whose skin is thin and sensi- blet The curry-com.b should at all times be light- ly ap])!ied. ^Mtli many liorses its use may be al- most dispensed with ; and even the brush rxced not be used very hard, on the points" of the bris- tles so irregular, as they often are. A soft brush, with a little more weiglit oi»thc Jmnd will l;e eouallv effectual. Odid a 2cod deal 126 more pleasant to tlie liorse. A hair-clotb, while it will seldom irritate, and tease, Avill be almost siifiicient with horses that have a thin skin, and that have not been neglected. After all it is no slight task to dress a horse as it ought to be done. It occupies no little time, and demands considera- ble patience, as well as dexterity. It will be rea- R, TIDBAI.L,, Offers }iis valuable work on the Horse to tlie citizens of this country — all comprised in this one copy of 78 recipes. The old Doctor has liad forty years practice in the different diseases of the horse, and his success has induced him to of- :^r the result of his experience to the public. No. 1. Vistula and Foil Einl before hreakifig. — Eowell from the bottom to the top of the swelling with tape, wet the rowel with tincture can tharides every third day. Move the rowels every morning- washing them clean with soap and water. Leave them in until the swelling has gone dov/n, then (iraw out, and the cure is performed. Bleed one vaiion when the operation is performed. ]^^o. 2. Aft^r Brealcing. — Rowel from the top of the pipe down through the pipe, then bleed, and aiLnoint the rowels with Blue Ointment every day uatii it runs a bloody matter. This is never known to mW. No. 3. Blue Oinlment — Take half an ounce of verdigris, one ounce of blue vitriol, four ounces of ointment of rosin, one ounce spirits of turpentine. i:i3 I^Tind all fiue, mis: well with one pound lard, and it is fit for use. Common rosin will do if the ointment is not convenient- No. 4. The HoolSy or Weal' Eyes. — Eowel in the jaw, or under the eyes, then bleed. Apply tiie eye lotion every third day, with a feather. Move the rowels every morning. Leave them in foi" fifteen or twenty days ) feed on corn. No. 5. Eye Lotion. — Take one pint of linseed oil, add two ounces of gum camphor, one ounce of either. Shake it wtII, and it is fit for use. This cures all weak eyes that are curable. No. 6. Sj^avin and Bingicorm Ointment. — Take two ounces cantharides, one ounce gum ophor- bonm, two ounces turpentine, one ounce tincture of idoine, and three drachms corrosive sublimate. Grind all fine, and mix with two pounds of lard. No. 7. Hoof Bound. — Ha^ e horse shod with shoes narrow at the heel. Have them made with calks one inch long, fiaring out from bottom to the top. Use the Hoof Ointment every third day. No. 8. Roof Ointment. — Take half a pound of lard , and foiu^ ounces rosin. Heat them over a slow fire until molted, take the pot off the. fire, add one ounce of pulverized verdigris, stir well to pre- vent it running over, AYhen partly cool add two ounces turpentine. Apply it fi'om the hair down one inch. Work tlie horse all the time. No. 9. Big Leg. — Apply the Liquid Blister every Ihird hour until it blisters. In three hours grease 134 the leg with linseed oil. In six days wasli it clean with soap and water. Repeat every six days un- til the swelling goes down. If there should be any callous left, apply the spavin ointment. I^To. 10. Liquid Blister. — Take half pint linseed oil, one pint spirits turpentine, and four ounces aqua ammonia ; shake well, and it is fit for use. Apply every third hour until it blisters. Ko. 11. Hoof Evil or Thrush. — Physic and bleed, then poultice the foot with boiled turnips. Re- new every twenty -foiu^ hours, for three times, then apply the Blue Ointment every third day, merely anointing the sore parts. Wash clean before ap- plying. Keep the horse out of the mud and wet. This will never fail to cure in four or five weeks. No. 12. Founder. — Bleed in the neck until the horse staggers or falls down. Turn up his feet, and fill them with boiling lard. Give him a phy- sic-ball, and foment his legs with hot water every five or six hours. Give him a mash of Scalded bran. This will cure in twenty -four hours. No. 13. Lung Fever. — Symptoms : The horse is taken suddenly ill, either after being taken from the stable, or on returning to it. He gives evi- dence of pain by looking around at his side. He never offers to lay down j his nostrils are distend- ed ; he breathes hard ; his chest is sore, or over his lungs ; he connot bear you to press your hand hard on his chest; very dry, but cannot drink. Cure. — ^Bleed three gallons. Take one ounce of lavender, two ounces spirits nitre, half pint wa 135 ier, drench him. Repeat every four hours until better. Blanket him as warm as possible. Then :api)ly the liquid blister all over the chest opposite the lungs every third hour until it blisters. If ]ie> is not better in six hours repeat the bleeding, and inject with the folio wing clyster : half gallon warm water, half pint linseed oil, and a small handful salt. Xever physic, or he will die. ]Sro. 14. Bupon Farcy. — Symptoms: Swelled legs, and running sores on the legs. CuEE. — Bleed largely, then physic ; then give clie following ball or i>ills, in forty-eight hours aftei' the physic has operated. Take two ounces gen- tian, and four ounces of ginger ; make this in a paste with honey or molasses. Divide it into ten parts, "add to each part ten grains arsenic. Roll it in paper, and give one morning and evening, until it physics or makes him slobber, then omit, and give him one ounce of laudanum. Feed on green or light food. Wash the sores clean, and apply the Blue Ointment every other day. If there should be any swelling left in the legs, api^ly the general liniment every day or two. No. 15. Water Farcy. — Symptoms: The horse is dull and loses his appetite, and swells along the body or chest, and between the fore legs. Cure. — Rowel in the breast and along each side of chest as far as the swelling goes. Leave the rowels in until the swelling goes down. Give a ^spoonful of cleansing powders morning and night. No. 16. 2^asal Gle^t, or running at the nose, or to 136- dry up distemxier.— Take half a pound of alum, half a pound of rosin, half a pound of hlue vitriol, four ounces of ginger, and enough fenugreek to scent ; grind all fine. Give the horse a spoonful two or three times a day. This will cure all dis- charges or distempers, if not glanders. No. 17. Chronic Covr/h. — Take powdered squills one ounce, ginger two ounces, cream tartar one ounce, mix well, and give a spoonful each morning and evening, in wet bran. This is good after hard riding or driving. It cures all coughs and colds, and will prevent the lungs from swelling. No. 18. Cleansing Potvders. — Take of ginger two ounces, four ounces fenugreek, one ounce black an- timony, and two ounces rhubarb. Grind all fine, mix it well, and it is fit for use. Give a large spoonful morning and night. This is the best con- dition powder ever used. It gives a good ai)petite :^nd fine coat,. and life to the animal. No. 19. Fit^. — Symptoms: The horse commences Jerking his head, and falls down -, in a short time he will get up, and is apparently well. CuEE. — ^Give two ounces of the tincture of asa- IVetida every morning for ten days. Tie the gum on liis bit, and make him wear it for six or eight days, lie will never have a fit after the first dose. No. 20. Jaundice Yellow Water. — Symptoms:. The hair in the mane and tail gets loose, the white of liis eye turns yellow, and the bars of his mouth ; ho refuses to ent, and limps in his right fore leg. lienerallv. 137 CusE. — ^Physic, bufc never bleed; then everr Biorniug give him one drachm of calomel in on(^ ounce of spirits of camphor, for eight or ten days, also give him a dose of the cleansing powders ev- ery night.. This is a sure cure. Ino. 21. NlcMnr/ Balsam. — Take a half pound of fresh butter, add to this one ounce oil organum. and half an ounce tincture of iodine. IMix well. and it is fit for use. This is used on the tail after nicking, and on bruises, saddle galls, corks, and all kinds of si)raius and rheumatism. ^0. 22. Thmnyfs^ or Palpitation of the Heart. — Symptoms , The horse is almost exhausted, breath- ing is very hard. The difference between thumps and lung fever is the distress of the heart, which you may hear flutter at a distance of twenty feet. Cure. — ^Bleed largely, and it will suddeidy stop. Dissolve one drachm of nitre and a large sx^oonfut of salt in half a pint of water. ]>rench three timej> every six hours. Do not work the horse for a week. Xo. 23. Shouldey Jam, or Sweeney. — Eowel from the top of the shoulder blade down, as aiiected- Put in a few drops tincture cantharides every third day. .Move the rowels every day, keepnig them clean with soap and water. Keep them in from twenty to thirty days, and the cure is performed. Xo. 21. Stopimge of the Urine. — Sym])toms ; Fre- quent attempts to urinate, looking round at hi.< sides, lying dov, n, rolling and stretcliing. Cure. — Take half a pound hops, three drachms nil of camphor, grind, and mix. Make this into X 138 tlirec pills. Give one every day, witli a dieiicli made of a small teaspooiiM of saltpetre and two ounces of water. This generally cures. No. 25. Fhysic Ball. — Take tvro ounces aloes, one ounce turpentine, and an ounce of Hour. Make into a paste witli a few drops of w^ater, wrap in a paper, iind give with a bailing iron. No. 20. To Be move ]Varts. — Cut them out by the roots, and if they bleed much, dissolve one grain of nitrate of silver in two ounces of water, bathe, and it will stop immediately. Tlien ai)ply the blue ointment every day until it heals. No. 27. Inflammation of the Kidneys. — Symx)toms: The horse is vreak across the back, and passes urine very often, which is very highly colored. CuEE. — ^Bleed one gallon, then blister across the kidneys, and give the following x>owder: Two ounces rosin, one ounce of hellebore, one ounce gentian. Mix, and ai>ply the general liniment. No. 28. Stifle Sxyrains. — If it has never been out of place, bleed two gallons, then physic, and bathe with hot water every twenty-four hours, and ap- ply the general liniment j will cure all cases in ten or twenty days. Never put on a stiflje shoe. No. 29. Loss -of Appetite. — Bleed half a gallon, then give a fevr doses of cleansing powders; if he lacks life, then give him a few drops of the restor- ative liquid. No. 30. Jxcsiorative Liquid. — This will give life to all that is not dead. Take oil of cloves one ounce, oil of anise one ounce, tincture cantharides one 139 ounce, tincture asafoetida two ounces, oil o1' ros<'- uiary one ounce j sluike well and it is lit for use ; give ten or fifteen drops in a bucket of water. ^o. 31. Hoof Liquid. — This is for contra(!ted feet or bruises in tbe soles of the feet, or after joint sprains : take four ounces oil of spike, four ounces spirits turpentine, and J pint linseed oil j shake well, and apply over the crust of the foot e\'er\ day. This will remove fever and soreness of tlie foot, and hoof bound, but the ointment is best. Xq. 32. General Liniment. — Take half a i)int lin- seed oil, half pint turi)entiue, oil of origanum four ounces; shake well, and it is fit for use. This is for all sprains and a general liniment. It is used in the different diseases spoken of. Xo. 33. ^SYo^> Mood-^li you can get hold of lite artery or vein, tie it np. ]f not, take tlie fol- lowing: ten gTains of nitrate of silver and four ounces of watei, apply it to the wonnd, and it will stop immediately. Apply this to warts after cut- ting them out. jS^o. .'36. — Chest Iwunder. — Symptoms: isot unlike lung fever; Ihe horse is st^l!*, Imt has no fever in Ins feet, very sore in his chest, inclines to stand very vride with liis fore legs. CiTEE. — Bleed, physic, and rowel in the breast, then commence bathing his breast and chest with iLot water every six houis, and blanket him -, this will cuie, if not of too long standing. Xo. 37. MeJcmders is a disease of the feet and pasterns. It commences after the grease heals* Symj^toms : The hair stands out. CuEE. — Apply the spavin ointment every six days for two or three times, it will run the callous oif, their apply the blue ointment until well. Xo. 38. JSoaj) lAniment, for si)rains and swellings. Take J gallon of alcohol, one pint soft soap, four ounces spirits of camphor, and four ounces spirits tuipentine, stir over a slow fire. This is cheap, and good when you cannot get the general liniment. Ko. 39. OpcdeJdoc. — Take J a gallon of alcohol, two ounces gum cami)hor, and J an ounce of rose- inai'y. Heat this l)y setting a jar or pot on the stove. Take pure Castile soap, shave it tliin, and pnt in as long as the liquid will eat it. This is sure. No. '10. Jserre and Bone (Jinimeni. — To one quart Ul clarified uoa-ts foot oil, add two ounces oil tiirpeu- tiuo, four ouuces oil origanum, and one pint alco- liol ; shake it, clean with red sanders, and strain it. Xo. 41. Lock Jaw. — Uleed largely, and apply chloroform to the nose until the jaws tly open, put a gag into the mouth, and give two ouuces tiiict. asafcBtida every six liours, and a dose of physic. This will cure if there is any cure. Xo. 42. ReavG Powders to Trade on. — Half a pound of Spanish brown, and half a pound of gin- ger ; give a teaspoonful three times a day. Ko, 43. Gravel in the Foot. — If it is of long stand- ing, poultice the foot with boiled turnips, or any other drawing poultice, until it dravrs, then dress with blue ointment a few times. If there is much fever apply the hoof liquid for a tew times. IsTo. 44. I?i McMngy if much swelling follows, bleed, and use the nicking balsam every other day on the root of the tail. Xever apply watei to tht« tail. Let it stay up four vreeksj let the blood dry, and rub it off, then dock, and put in the piuley?; live or six days. No. 45. Cure for CgUc. — Take two ouuces sweet oil, two ounces laudanum, one pint warm water, and (.Trench. It never fails while there is life. 2^0. 4G. Bifj Head. — One ounce oil origanum, tw(t ounces sweet oil, tvv^o ounces aqua ammonia, two ounces tincfiu'e cantharides, two ounces spirits tur- pentine, and one ounce oil rosemary. Give one spoonful saltpetre ever}'- third day; rub tlie mix- tui*e in twice a day. 142 Ko. 47. BoU. — As mucli red precipitate as will lie ou a ten cent i)iece -, mix with clongli,aiid make into a pill. If oue don't relieve, repeat in an lioiir. Fo. 48. Gravel. — Steep lialf a pound of liops in a quart of hot water, give it as hot as the horse can stand it. No. 49. — To Remove the Scum from the Bye in Twenty-four Hours. — Take five cents worth of pul- verized lunar caustic, and mix well v^ith one ounce of lard, and it is fft for use. No. 50. Wealc Eyes. — One spoonM of honey, two spoonfuls fresh butter, one spoonful black x>ep- l>er, and the yolk of an egg. Stew it for fifteen minutes over a slow fire, and strain through a vvoollen cloth. Ai)ply in and above the eye. No. 51. ^Younds. — One quart cf alcohol, one ounce cayenne i)epper, one pint spirits turpentine. Shake well, and it is fit lor use. No. 52- Scratches. — Two ounces Castile soat>,two ounces rosin, one ounce lard, two ounces copperas, and white of an egg ; stew it for fifteen minutes, and it is fit for use. Bind it on the part for 24 hours, then wash it well, and tl>e cure is performed. No. 53. Sweating Liniment. — Take the yolks of six dozen eggs, and one pint of salt ; beat them together until it forms a paste j rub the affected part well with the paste, leaving it from four to six hours ; wash it off with strong salt and water, as hot as you can i)ut it on. Then blanliet it well ' for ten hours. It cures all sprains. N. No. 54. Dope to Trade on. — One ounce of black ^^3 antimony, iiiixed witli au ounce orcanlliarides. A small spoonful twice a da^^ will fatten a horse \n ten (lays to trade on. No. uo. ToBemove Callousness hy Ahsorptlon in a shorter time than by liniment. One ounce of alco- hol, and one ounce of xndverized sal ammonia ; bathe the leg every two hom\s; bind the leg vvith straw bands from the hoof to tho topof the callous, till a sponge with the liquid^ aud^ place it on for twenty -four hours ; for spavin, add to this liquid half an ounce of cantharides. Ko. oG. Fistula after hreaking. — Take lye fron^ the small black hickory and-the roots of the prick- ly ash, burnt together j boil down to potash j put a small portion into the hole, and let it remain f®ur or five days ; remove it, and put in about twenty d!»Dps of aqua fortis. No. 57. ^alve to heal irounds. — Take a piece oi polk root about the size of an egg^ and two Indian turnips ground fiue^ and stew one minute witli a pound of iard. Put it on every third day. No. 58. Fistula and Foil Evil before breaking or matter is formed. — Two ounces oil of turpentine, two ounces A^enice turpentine, tvro ounces golden tincture, one ounce oil origanum, and half a pint alcohol ; mix well, and apply every twenty-four hours for three times. No. 5t). Heaves.-— Take one quart sweet milk, add one tablespoonfal oil of vitriol ; take four quarts ot mash feed, wet the same Avith one half the pre- scription ; next day give the balance. In one week repeat the prescription ; so on for six weeks r 144 Xo. GO. For Curhs, — Take benoidide of mercury i:hree draclims, laixl Wo ounces, mix it well; clip The iiair close, just tlie size of the enlargement, I'ub the ointment on with the finger. In tliree or lour days the matter which oozes from the enlarge* ment will form a thick scab ; soften with treshlard and i>ick it off ; rub dry with the hand, and apply as above. Five or six apx)lications Avill remove any curb. For splints apply in the same manner. ^o. Gl. 2[u(l Fever and Craclced Keels. — Take equal parts lard, gunpowder, and glass; jmlverize the glass and powder as fine as flour, and make into an ointment ; wash the diseased parts with Castile soap and soft water ; rub dry, and apply the ointment once a day till cured, Xo. (>2. InfaUibJe cure for Bin glonc and t^ixmtu Li<)iucl Aiuiuoiiia 1 oz., 9l};. Rod Profipitatc 1 oz., Stii. V» hito Pino Tuipcntiuc, J oz., 3)'(!. Hjiauis^li Flics, 1 oz., 7t]-.. Oriftaiium Oil, 1 oz., Grh. Iodine, 2 dracljins, 5tl.\ Corrosive SiiWiniate, 2 drachms, -itb. Strong Mercurial OiBtment, 3.i oz., 1 ^^t. Lard'3^oz., lioney f lb., gum foibium, 1 oz., x.'d. The reader asks why this recipe is written i)i iiucli a. form. It is prepared just as Avritten : 9th is first placed in the mortar ; 8th is next, and well mixed with 9th ; 3d is then thoroughly mixed witli Sth and 9tli. Thus each article is applied separate ly, and thoroughly mixed. 7tli is the next, and st) on until your ointment is finished. This is the best spavin and ringbone ointment known. Clip the liair, and apply the same as for curbs; lem.ovethe 145 scale with lard, and wash with Castile soap au'd «oft wat<3r. Eub dry, and apply again. No. 63. Physic Ball for Horses. — Cape aloes from six to ten drachms, Castile soai) one drachm, sph^- its of wine one drachm, syrup to form the ball. If mercurial physic be wanted, add from one-half a drachm to one drachm of calomel. Previous to physicing a horse, and during* its operation, he should be fed on bran mashes, allowed plenty of chilled water, and have exercise. Physic is always useful ; it is necessary to be administered in al- most every disease. It improves digestion, and gives strength to the lacteals by cleansing the in- testines and unloading the liver : and, if the ani- mal is afterwards properly fed, will improve his strength and condition in a remarkable degree. Ph^ic, except in urgent cases, should be given in the morning, and on an empty stomach ; and if re- quired to be repeated, a week should intervene be- tween each dose. Before giving a horse aball, see that it is not too hard, or too large. Cattle medi- cine is always given as a drench. No. 64. Physic for Cattle. — Cape aloes, four drachms to one ounce. Epsom salts, four to six ounces, powdered ginger three drachms. Mix, and give in a quart of gruel. For calves, one-third of - this will be a dose. No. 65. Tonic for Horses and Cattle. — Sulphate of .copper one ounce to twelve drachms, white su- gar J ounce. Mix, and divide into eight powders, And give one or two daily in the animaPs food. 14€ ^0. C6. (jordialfor Horses mid Cattle. — Powder- ed opium one draclim, ginger powdered two drachms, allspice powdered tliree draclims, cara- way seeds powdered four draclims. Make into a ball with molasses, or give as a drench in gruel. For Gripes and Hove in Cattle^ add to the above a teacupM of spirits or oil ; and repeat every two hours until the animal is found to be relieved. Ko. 67. Diuretic Ball. — Hard soap and common turpentine each four drachms, oil of juniper twen ty drops, powdered rosin to form the ball. For Hrojysy, Water Farcy, Brolcen Wind, or Fehrile Dis- eases, add to the above allspice and ginger, of each two drachms. Make four balls, and give one morn- ing and evening. ]N"o. QS. Diuretic Powder. — Powdered rosin and nitre each four ounces ; mix, and di\ade into 12 parts; give one daily. No. 69.' Alterative or Condition Powders. — Eosin and nitre each two ounces, levigated antimony one ounce. Mix for eight or ten doses, and give one at night and morning. When this is to be given to cattle, add glauber salts one pound. No. 70. Fever Ball. — Oape aloes two ounces, ni- tre four ounces, molasses to form a mass. Divide into 12 balls, and give one morning and evening, till the bowels are relaxed ; then give No. 6S or 72. No. 71. Sedative and Worm Ball. — Powdered white hellebore one-half drachm, linseed powdereti one-half ounce. If necessary, make into a ball with molasses. This ball is specific for weed, in korses and cattle. U7 No. 72. Anodyne Ball. — Opium one drachm.^ owdered savin. No. 76. Fever Powder for Rorses, — Nitre from ^ ounce to 1 ounce, camphor and tartar emetic each from one to two drachms ; powder and mix. T» lye used after the bowels have been opened. No. 77. Astringent Ball for Horses. — Opium liom one-half to one di'achm, ginger 1 J diachms, pre- pared chalk three drachms, flour two drachms. Powder and make it into a ball with molasse«. No. 78. Stomachic Purgative Ball, for thin, ill- T4:s conditioned Morses. — ^Vloeii 1 ^ ounce, rhubarb twct* clracliams, calomel one draclim, ginger 1 A dracliinfc;, oil caraway ten drops, Castile soap two dracliniH ; molasses sufficient to make it into a ball. E'o. 79. For Fermenting Swollen or Stocked Legs. — Procure one pound of smartweed^ place tlie same in an eight gallon kettle — add four gallons of soft- water, place over a slow fire and boil down to two gallons, strain the solution into another iron or tin vessel, get one pound of alum, place in a mortar and pulverize "fine, sift the alum into the liquid, again place over the fire and stir until w^ell dissolved. Now wind the limb tight with a hay rope, pour one pint of the solution in at the top of the bandage when blood warm, I'epeat every hour for forty-eight hours. This is the best fer- mentation used it will remove all inflamation and swelling in two days. If there is a cut or wound after fermenting, apply blue ointment ^o. 3 until healed. In case of strain or bruise, apply the gen eral linement ^o. 32. Ko. 80. For Distemper. — Oil of origanum one ounce, oil cedar one ounce, tincture cantharides one ounce. Olive oil four ounces. Shake well and bathe the throat and glands morning and eve- ning for six days, rub in well with the hand, he Avill throw out freely and the cure is performed, iSTo. 81. To Remove Splint — Croton oil half an. ounce, quick silver one drachm, clip the hair close, ttie size of the enlargement. Shake the bottle wpU or it will not mix, (the quicksilver being so 140 mtich heavier than the oil,) immecliately after the bottle is well shaken take two or three drops on the ends of your fingers and rub on the point of the enlargement, be careful of getting it on the other parts of the leg for you must remember it is one of the most powerful blisters known, in six or eight days after applying it to the enlargement, wash off ^yith castile soap and warm water, do not pick the bunch off, let it loosen and work off grad- ually— after it comes out apply the blue ointment once a day until healed. No. 82. For Worms in Horses. — Take ten grains of arsenic, place in a short ounce vial with mouth- piece large, take on the point of your pocket knife about as much as would lay on half of a three cent piece and mix in two quarts of dampened shorts, in two or thiee days, repeat the same, and so on, for ten or twehe days, this recipe will ef- fectually destroy all worms in horses. ^o. 83. The hest Spavin Preparation Known. — Spirits turpentine, half ounce, oil origanum half ounce, citric acid, half ounce, oil wormwood half ounce, Spanish fly to thicken, clip the hair, scarify and apply about the thickness of a piece of note paper, let it remain without touching untU it stops running, then carefully wash with soft water and soap, let the horse remain idle for four weeks. No. 8tl. For the Eye. — Calomel three scruples, olive oil one ounce. BoUadonia three scruples, bathe with an eye brush or feather once a day un- til cured. loO 85. For Wind{jaUs and JSoft Puffs. — Oil origanum four ounces, oil hemlock, one ounce ; oil lavender, one ounce, oil wormwood, two ounces, oil spike,* one ounce, sweet oil eight ounce^ apply to parts effected morning and evening, and rub well with the hand. 86. For Thrush. — Poultice the foot vrith turnip poultice for twelve hours, wash clean with warm water, then with a stiff feather apply iodine forte around the frog once a day for three or four days, after which appl;^:sT)irits of salts two or tliree times. In one week the cure is performed. 87. Hoof Hot. — Get a strong solution of white oak bark then add equal parts of tobacco and gun- l^owder, let it stand until you get the strength, bathe the foot night and morning for ten days ; then apply the hoof ointment to grow them out. 88. Heave Ecmedy. — Balsam of fir and balsam of copeiva ecjual portions, add calomel and niag- nesia equal parts to thicken, make into rolls the size of yolk to an i'gg, giA'c t^^•ice a day morninj*- and evenins,. ir>i T£il>le or Oontei^ts- To Piu'chasers. Preface. History of Celebrated liorf«08 trained and exhibited by York & Williams. Morgan Tiger. Alarm. Oen. Mae. Toimg Columbus. Also, Mis-statements Corrected by C. H. C. William.s. General l\emarks. First St(^i> to be taken witli a Wild Coif. How to Halter-break a Colt. HoAv to Hitch u Colt in the Stall the tirst time. Hajidling the Colt'.s Feet. Ho^v to Eide a Colt. Bitting the Colt. To get the Colt used to the Bit. Harnessing the Colt the First Time. Hitchiiig him to "Wagon the First Time. Hitching the Oftlt in Single Har- ness to Wagon, First Time. Learning the Colt to Back. Subduing the Colt. How to Subdue Vicious Horses. Dimensions and Use of Siu-ein- gle. Castrating. How to drive runaway horses. How to DriTe-ii Kicking Horse. Another plan tor driving a Kick- er in Harness. How to break a kicker in double Harness. How to use a Balkv Horse. How to Break a Halter Puller. Another and Better Plan for Breaking a Halter Puller. A Runaway, Bolting, or Plung- ing Horse. Pawing in the Stable. Kicking in the^Stall. " Bad Biters. Bad to ifarness, or CrrooiM. Kolling in the Stall. Oettiiig Cast in tln-> Stall. Driving on one Ecin. Hard I'ullors. Carrying Tonglie Over Bit, and Out of Mouth. How to shoe a Horse that is Vi- cious. For Teachuig a horse to back, or a Horse that is in the habit of Bolting. The Plan for a Breachy Horse. How to Catch a Horse in Pasture On Shoeing. Clips. • The Hind Shoe. To Prevent Over-reaching or Clicking. Interferiug with the Hind feet. Interfering with the Forward feet. The bar shoe. Shoeing the trotting horse. Quarter Cracks. Teaching tricks. To come at the crack of th« whip, or word of command. To make a bow. To say No. To Lie Down. To Sit Up. To teach a Horse to kiss You. To shake Hands. How to tell a horse's age. Jockey Tricks. Ti'aiuing Steers. Training Dogs. Training the Shephevdto Driye. The Watch Dog. The Trick Dog. The First step with the te^itk Dog. To learn him to sit dow». irjn I'u iiMiti'u blui fo make u bow. To learn him to tind tlaug». 'To ait up. Turf Calender. To dtaud up. Stable Mahagemeut. lo get into" a chair. Closing Remarks. To make him go la/).< . To run on his forward legs The old English horsd Fairlor Dr.Tidball. To sit on iX stool. Recipea. RECIPE^. 1. Vistula and Poll Evil before 44. Nicking. hreakiug. 45. Cure for Colic. 'J. After breaking. 46. Big Head. 3. Blue Ointment. 47. Botts. -i. Hooks, or Weak Eye^j. 4«. Gravel. 5. Eye Lotion. ♦9. To Remove Scum from Eve 6. S}>avin «fe Eing"worm Oiatm't .3.3. Weak Eves. 7 Hoof Boinid. 51. Wounds'.' 8. Hoof Oiutment. 52. Scratches. 9. BiiT Lee. 53. Sweating Linimeni.. ii). Liquid 151ister. 5i.. Dope to Trade On. 11. Hoof Evil, or Thrush. 55. To Remove Calious^esa. J:.!. Founr-r, 56. Fistula after Breaking. '•-. A.\u^ 'j rcr. 57. Salve 'to Heal Woifada. 14. Bi.tii':i V.acy. 58, Fistula and Poll Evil. 15. ^Vat!■l■ i'arcY. 59. Heaves, IG. NfsalGleety 60. For Curbs. 17. Chronic Cough. 61. Mud Fever & cracked heeli. 18. Cleansing Powdero. Bj. Cure ibr Ringbone & Soavin 19. Pits. 63. Physic Balls. 20. Jaundice Yellow Water. 64. Physic for Cattle. 21. Nicking Balsam. 65. Toiiic for Horses & Cattlo. 22. Thumps, or Palpitation of 66. Cordial " " the Heart. 67. Diuretic Ball. 23. Shoulder Jam or Sweney. 68. Diuretic Powd^s. 69. Condition Powlers. 94. Stoppage of the Urine. 25. Physic Ball. 70. Fever Ball. 26. To Remove Warta. 71. Sedative and Worm Ball. 27. Inflammation of ELindneys. 72. Anodyne Ball. 28. Stifle Sprains. 73. Cordial a.stringent drench. 29. Loss of Appetite. 74. Blister Ointment. 30. liestorative Liquid. 75. Powder of Angloberries. 31. Hoof Liquid. 76. Fever powder for Horses. 32. General Liniment. 77. Astringent ball for Horses. 33. Sore Mouth or Tongue. 78. Stomach Purg^ve ball. 34. Mange. 79. For fermenting swollen log». 35. To Stop Blood. 80. For Distemper. 36. Chest Founder. 81! To Remove Splints. 37. Melanders. 82. For Worms in Horses. 38. Soap Linement. 83. Spavin Preparation. 39. Opedildoc. 84. For the Eye. 40. Heave and Bone Ointment. 85. For windgaUs and soft puff*. 41. Lockjaw. 86. Thrush. 42. Heave Powders to Ti-ade on. 87. Hoof Rot. 48. Gravel in the Foot. 88, Hottv© Remedy. 1 /