HORSEMAN'S HAND BOOK,

CONTAINING,

THE

bs IN THIRTEEN LESSONS,
| LATEST AND BEST METHOD

FOR

Breaking and Educating Colts :

ALSO,

BREAKING UP THE HABITS AND VICES
OF BADLY SPOILED HORSES.

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. By A. P. MASON,

| OLEAN, N.Y. |
|

PI aed inet Sal
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YOUNG, LOCKWOOD & Co’S STEAM PRESS,
BUFFALO, N. Y. ;
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THE

|

TORSEMANS HAND BOOK,

1
CONTAINING,
IN THIRTEEN LESSONS,

THE

LATEST AND BEST METHOD

ALSO,

BREAKING UP THE HABITS AND VICES
OF BADLY SPOILED HORSES.

YOUNG, LOCKWOOD & CO’S STEAM PRESS,
BUFFALO, N. Y.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year eighteen
hundred and seventy-four,

By A. P. MASON,

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

Ge Sorc ke PAC hk.

oe —————— 1

/

Having been for the past twenty years
practically engaged in the business and
study of handling and educating. wild and
vicious horses, and being familiar with all
other systems, and having originated many
of the latest and most valuable improve-
ments in the art, I have now a regulated
system of my own, written in a plain com-
prehensive manner, step by step, by which
the most inexperienced need not fail in
successfully handling and breaking colts,
or horses of vicious habits. Knowing the
need of such a work, and the advantages
derived therefrom over all other systems,
it is with pleasure that I now tender you
this little work, entitled “THe Horsr-
MAN’s HAnp Book,” feeling confident that
all who honor it by its perusal, may be
benefitted thereby.

Very Respectfully,
A. -P:.MASON.

LESSON FIRST.

Get your colt into an enclosure from
twenty to forty feet square, where there is
no chance for him to escape or injure him-
self. Then approach him with a long
bow-topped whip in the right hand, with
the left hand extended, saying “ho, doy,”
until he turns to leave you, when you will
give him a few sharp cuts about the hind
legs, saying “Here sir! Come here!”
(stepping in his way as he runs around)
and repeat, until from fear of the whip be-
hind he will keep his head towards you,
and will follow you around to the right or
left at the word “ come along, boy,” and will
allow his head and neck to be handled;
talking kindly the while, and keeping your-
self in good humor at all times. Give a few
oats from the hand, and let him rest for half
an hour, and repeat until he comes prompt-
ly to you, and will allow the halter to be
put on and taken off without fear.

LESSON SECOND.

Put on a five-ring halter; have a small,
strong cord, about fifteen feet long; tie
one end to the throat-piece of the halter,
passing the other end through the mouth
from the off side, and back on the near
side over the throat piece. Then step to
left about six feet, and opposite the shoul-

5

der, and saying, “ Come here sir!” givea
sharp pull upon the cord, letting up quickly
that he may not struggle or throw himself.
Repeat until he will come promptly.at the
word, or the slightest pull. Caress at each
and every motion to obey you, by patting
and rubbing the head and neck, and talk-
ing kindly to him. Then put the cord
through the mouth the opposite way, and
repeat on the other side. Then repeat on
either side, leading by the halter stall,
gradually pulling more in front, until he
will lead straight ahead. Caress, (giving
a few oats from the hand), and let him
rest for half an hour, and then repeat.

LESSON.THIERD.

Put on a halter, with cord as at first, take
the cord in hand, stand in front, and say-
ing “ Hold up, sir!” jerk down upon the
cord until the head is thrown up; caress,
and repeat until he will obey at the word.
Then take the cord in the right hand close
to the head, with whip in the left hand be-
hind you, and saying “ Come along, boy!”
start ahead, touching up with the whip
from behind. Go twenty or thirty feet,
when say “Whoa!” give a sharp jerk down
upon the cord, repeating until he will start,
walk promptly by your side, and stop at
the word, (carrying his head well up the
the while.) Then put the cord through

6

the mouth the opposite way, and repeat on

the other side. Take off halter, give a

few oats from the hand, and let him rest for
half an hour and repeat.

LESSON FOURTH.

Put on a halter with cord as at first;
work up the mouth a little, throwing the
the head up, and saying “ Whoa, boy!”
put on a surcingle, (a leather strap one
inch wide is sufficient,) then have a strap
one inch wide and two feet long, made
like a hame strap; loop it around the left
ankle, raise the foot and buckle the strap
around the surcingle short enough to pre-
vent his bruising the other leg with his
foot. Then take a broom (carefully at
first) and brush him all over until he ceases
to fear it. Change foot strap to the other
foot, and rub with newspapers, letting him
put his nose to them, &c., talking kindly,
and letting him know by word and action
that he is not going to be hurt, and that
you are his friend. Let him rest a few
minutes, and then strap up the other foot,
then card him all over and comb out his
tail. Then change foot strap, and show
him a blanket, letting him smell of it; rub
his head and neck with it; continuing all
over him, and throw it on him, (lightly at
first), and repeat until he will bear-to have
it thrown on to him carelessly, from any

7

direction, around his legs, &c. Restiua

while, change the foot strap to the other

foot, and repeat, using robe, bells, &c.

Letting him move around on three legs
with them on, until he has no fear of them.
Rest, put up the other foot and repeat,
using an umbrella; let him smell of it,
rub him over with it, open it, turn it bot-
tom side up, and let him eat oats out of
it; carry it around and over him, occasion-
ally letting him eat oats out of it until he
has no fear of it. Then give a little rest,
and put up the other foot and repeat with
baby cart, wheelbarrow, &c., wheeling them
around him, stopping in front of him, oc-
casionally letting him eat oats out of them.
Take off foot strap, let him rest, and repeat
this lesson without foot strap.

LESSON FIFTH.

Put on a halter and lead him around a
little; put on surcingle, strap up left for-
ward foot, put on harness; take off halter
and put on a bridle with easy snaffle bit,
check loosely, buckle in the lines, which
should be flat lines 7% of an inch wide and
about 18 feet long, passing back through
the thill tugs. Then put on short foot
strap, with 1% inch ring attached on right
foot; then have a cord about sixteen feet
long, and tie one end to the surcingle,

passing the other end down through the

8

ring in foot strap, and back over the sur-

cingle. Have a common hame strap, loop »

it around the center of the breeching body,

and buckle a 1% inch ring into it, and
pass the cord through between the hind
legs and through the ring, which keeps it |

from getting in under the foot. Now tie
up your lines, take the cord in your hand,
and let down the left foot, and start around,

occasionally using the word “ zwfoa,” and
pulling up the foot. Repeat, starting and
stopping until he will do it promptly at the -

word, driving around either way. Change

the foot strap to the other foot, and repeat. |

Unharness and rest.

LESSON ‘SIXTH.

Put on harness, omitting the foot strap,
checking a little higher. Get behind, with
lines passed through the thill tugs; step
to the left side of the colt, and pull on the

right or off line, until he squares around; |

then on the other side, and repeat until he

squares around promptly either way. Then _
drive ahead about twenty feet, when say-—
ing “whoa!” give a raking pull upon the |

bit, and repeat. Starting (with whip, if a
little dull) and stopping, until he will stop

at the word, from a walk or trot. Then
standing still, and holding the left line—

about one foot shorter than the other, urge
him patiently, tapping him lightly on the

)

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‘off side, until, finding that he cannot go

ahead he will soon learn to walk sideways.

'Then caress him, from which he will un-
derstand that he has done right. Repeat,

until he will walk promptly either way.
This requires great patience, but should be
learned before hitching in shafts, that he
will not wait for his head to be pulled
around on his side, or the shaft to crowd
him before turning around. ‘Take off har-
ness, rest and repeat.

LESSON SEVENTH.

Put on the harness, check a little higher;
put an inch strap around the neck, into
which the lines buckled, passing the back

ends through the bit rings from the inside,

and back through the thill tugs. Drive

around, repeating the starting and stopping

a few times, then open the door of the
barn and drive out. This being his first
lesson out of doors he may try to leap
out, but with the lines attached in this
way he is easily held. Repeat the former
lessons in starting and stopping, walking
sideways, &c. Then repeating the words
“whoa, boy!” switch the whip, (lightly at
first,) and holding him—from which he
will soon learn that the sound of the whip
means nothing. This should be repeated
often, and while in motion. Drive around

in this way one hour, then unharness and
: *

Io

rest for half an hour. After resting put on

the harness same as before, and having a

blanket or robe spread across the road,
drive around and over it, until he will walk

over it fearlessly. Drive over bridges, |
through water, and all places where colts |
are liable to be afraid, for an hour, then —

unharness and rest.

Prepare a piece of stove pipe, with a
rope or strap eight feet long passed through
it with the ends tied together to carry it

by; put on the harness as before, (check-

ing a little higher), and drive around letting
the pipe drag on the road, lightly at first,
and more as he will bear it, until he will
not be afraid of all the noise you can make
with it. ‘Then accustom him to hearing it
in different places, and on the trot; using

the word “whoa!” occasionally, and forc-

ing prompt obedience from both the walk
and the trot, but never using that word
unless you want him to stop; and never let
him go, until you tell him to. Learn him
to stand still in all places. Drive one hour
and rest.

Now have prepared a hame collar, and |

a pair of common low topped team hames

with hame straps, then have two straps,

one inch wide and two feet long, and at

tach one end of each strap to each hame_

staple with 114 inch rings in the other)

ends, which are to pass through the thill
tugs, into which the side’straps are buck- |
eled—which prevents the collar from being”

Pt

pushed over the head when backing. Then
_ take two straight, smooth hickory poles,
i about ry inches in diameter at small ends,
, and as near of a bigness the whole length
| as you can find them, and about ten feet
long; lay them side by side, and put a saw
_ horse (or the like) under each end, to get
| the bellies down. Then bore a 3 inch
« hole straight through each pole, fifteen
\| inches from the large ends; then prepare a
| crossbar of good timber, 14 by 3 inches
|| and five feet long, bore a 34 inch hole two
4 inches from each end, and one in the mid-
{ dle; round the ends, and bolt it on to the
4 poles with half inch bolts, with wide wash-
} ers above and below, putting nuts on top.
Now attach a strong 1 inch breast snap
securely to the small end of each pole at
( an angle to be easy to snap into the breast
rings on the hames, then round up the back
ends of the poles, that they may not stick
; to the ground when backing. Then
loosen the bolts, so that one may be raised
high enough to snap into the hame ring
without raising the other one. Then take
| two basswood boards, six feet long, fifteen
inches wide, and 34 of an inch thick, lay
them side by side, and put a sit cleat
across each end with wrought nails; then
bore a 34 inch hole through the center of
one cleat, and bolt it into the crossbar,
; cleat side up, with a 34 inch bolt, nut on
| top, with washers. top and bottom, and a
thick one between crossbar and board.

SS ee eee

L2

And for a seat take a basswood board, one
foot wide and five feet long, put a cleat
across one end with wrought nails; borea
half inch hole two inches from each corner
of the end having the cleat on, then lay
this just back of the forward cleat on the
wide board, and in the middle of it, and
mark and bore the wide board to match
the holes in the seat; then bolt on loosely
with $ inch bolts and washers, with nuts
on top. Then take a plank 19 inches thick,
one foot wide and two feet long; then raise
the seat and set the plank up edgewise in
under it, and work it forward far enough
to bring the seat to its proper height, and
nail it from top and bottom; then tighten
the bolts in it, and round off the corners
of the plank, and round up the back end
of the wide board, when you are ready for

LESSON EIGHTH.

Put on the harness, with the collar and
hames which you have prepared, with
breeching straps buckled into the rings |
spoken of, and have the lines adjusted as
before, except to pass them through the
line rings in the hames, instead of through
the thill tugs. Put on foot straps with a
cord, as before. Drive around between
the poles; pull up the foot; take a hitch
in the cord to hold it; hitch on the poles
and let him go five or six rods on three legs.

— *
Then let foot the down, keeping the cord
in hand; drive around, turning to right and
left until he gets used to the poles against
his sides and legs, and the rattle of them
behind him without fear. After driving an
hour, unharness and rest one hour.

Then harness up again, omitting foot
strap, (if he is not too wild,) and drive
around, bearing down on the seat as he
will bear and learns to pull, stopping oc-
casionally, and going to him, pat and talk
kindly to him, on either side; work pa-
tiently, until he will draw you when going
along, and, by degrees, he will learn to
start the board with you on it. Repeata
few times, and drive into the barn, unhar-
ness, and rest an hour.

Then hitch up in the barn, and drive
out bearing on the board; drive back, turn
around, get on, and let him draw you out
a few times, until he will draw you straight
out of the barn without sheering to the
right or left, when he is ready to hitch to
‘wagon. Unharness and rest.

LESSON NINTH.

| Put on the harness, with breast collar
and traces, harnessing otherwise as before,
‘with lines passed through the pad terrets ;
}put on foot strap, with cord; lead around
in front of wagon, (which should be a light

one,) pull up the foot, take a hitch in the

14

cord to hold it up; then pull up the wagon, |
shake the thills about him; drop them on
floor a few times; pull the crossbar against |
him, lightly at first, and by degrees with
force. Then hitch on; shake the wagon:
and harness; getting in and out a few}
times, with lines in hand, talking to him |
the while. Then let down his foot, keep- |
ing cord in hand; then get in, put the cord
over the seat, straddle it, and sit on it, |
having it handy if needed; drive around, |
turning right and left, bringing the wheel |
against the rub iron on either side, until |
he has no fear of it. Then repeat the|
lessons of starting and stopping promptly, |
from the walk, then from the trot; getting}
him used to the breeching being forced!
against him. Drive in this way about an
hour; then drive in, unharness, and give an\}
hour rest, giving good care and a few oats, |
Then repeat, (if he has behaved well), |
omitting foot strap. Now you can drive}
him from two to three miles and back, twice}
a day for a few days, when it will answer to
drive double the distance. |

LESSON TENTH.

TO LEARN YOUR COLT TO STAND TIED)!
HITCHED TO WAGON. .

First hitch into the poles; have a strong)
strap (made for the purpose) to oe |
around the neck, with a 34 inch rope at-}
tached; buckle around the neck and pass

IS

‘the rope through the bit ring and tie to a
‘strong post or tree. ‘Then pass by him
with an umbrella in different positions,
‘and from different directions, until he does
‘not fear it. Repeat with baby cart, wheel-
‘barrow, &c. Repeat when hitched in dif-
‘ferent places, when it will be safe when
‘hitched to wagon. Use this arrangement
‘to tie with at all times.

)|
LESSON ELEVENTH.
aoc ARN YOUR COLT TO ‘RIDE:

{

» Put on riding bridle; shut the door;
take him by the bit with left hand; spring
(back and grab the tail with right hand,
(and whirl him «lively five or six times
yaround; then, taking the reins firmly in
‘left hand, jump on, being dizzy he will not
‘Notice it. Rub your legs against him; pat
‘him all around as far as you can reach, talk-
img kindly the while. Get off, and repeat
until you can mount him carelessly as you
‘jplease, and can ride him around in the
barn. Then repeat out of doors, when
you can ride him where you please.

LESSON TWELFTH.
{TO LEARN YOUR COLT TO DRIVE DOUBLE.

First hitch by the side of a gentle horse
(checking as before,) putting on the off
(side; put on a neck yoke, and drive around
i=

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16

a little. ‘Then, if you have no assistant,
put on foot strap with cord on left foot,
passing the cord back on near side, and,
if he seems wild, bring the cord over the
back. Raise the foot and tie the cord into
the off hame ring, holding the foot up until
you get all hitched on. Then take lines
on the off side, untie the cord from the
hame, letting the foot down; get in, pass-
ing the cord over the seat, and sitting on
it; drive around, repeating the lessons of
starting, stopping, turning around, back-
ing, &c. Then repeat with the colt on the
near side. ‘Then omit foot strap, and drive
from three to six miles and back daily, for
a few days, driving up and down hill, over
bridges, &c., when, if all has went well, he
may be considered well trained to ride and
drive.

LESSON THIRTEENTH.

WHICH MAY PRECEDE THE LATTER HALF
OF LESSON. NINE, |

A short lesson preparatory to shoeing,
and we are done with the colt.

Hitch by the halter on the barn floor;
have a small piece of wood about four
inches long, with a notch cut around the |
center, into which tie the cord fifteen inches
from the end; now pass the short end of
the cord through the near halter ring,
(the piece of wood being against the ring.)

}
|

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17

_ Then raise the upper lip and pass the cord
»snugly in under it, and tie to the off halter
-ring. Now proceed to handle his feet, as
-in shoeing, and when he attempts to free
his feet do not struggle with him, but let
_ go, and give a litle jerk upon the cord, say-
ving “whoa, sir!” and repeat until he will
|be quiet, and let you handle his feet as
_you please.

( TO HANDLE A KICKER OR

F RUNAWAY.

| Use Mason’s Patent Bridle Bit, which
patent covers any thing in wader the upper

\Zip, by which to check or drive. This bit

is so constructed that nothing is discover-

lable when on the horse from the ordinary

(bit in use.

eae

\

‘DIRECTIONS FOR USING MASON’S

PATENT: BRIDLE BIT.

|

i

| Buckle into the bridle the same as any
bit, and, when adjusting the bit in the
mouth the loop thereon is passed up over
‘the upper teeth and under the upper lip,
(the bridle being buckled sufficiently tight
to hold it there.) Check reasonably short,
Ihave a standing martingale around the
\nose to keep him from throwing his nose
too high. Then drive around occasion-
ally using the word “w/oa!” and forcing

18

obedience with the bit. Learn him to walk}
sideways as heretofore explained, punish-
ing with both whip and rein at any attempt |
to kick. This first lesson is driving with|
the lines running loose to the bit on either!
side without being hitched to wagon. Af-|
ter a little driving in this way, uncheck and}
rest a few minutes, then put up the check)
and hitch to wagon and all will be well.

FOR KICKING WHILE GROOMING |

Use cord same as in Lesson Thirteen— |
punishing with cord at each attempt tc}
kick. You will not have occasion to repeat}
it many times.

FOR BITING.

Use the same treatment. If a stallior|
avoid punishing, by putting the chin stray
stationary in the left ring of the halter
with the buckle close to the ring; ther
punch holes enough in the other end sc}
that it may be taken up so short that he
cannot open his mouth while grooming 0)/
shoeing. If he has both habits use both
remedies. |

a

TO LEARN A HORSE TO STAND
WITHOUT HITCHING.

Have a short foot strap with ring at-
tached on each ankle; tie the cord into a
ring on right footstrap, and pass the other
end over the surcingle and down through
| ring in the left footstrap, and back over
. the surcingle; then between hind legs and

through a ring attached to breeching body;
| just back of this ring tie a knot or key in
the cord, (giving him enough to travel
| freely, but to prevent the rest of it from
sliding through and getting tangled in his
| feet and legs.) Then prepare a weight,
{ similar to heavy log chain folded up into
{a bundle about three feet long, and a strap
| buckled around it, made heavy enough so
} that he could not drag it without pulling
| his feet up. Then place yourself on smooth
{ ground in the yard or field, and attach the
| back end of the cord to the weight, step
| back and wait for him to start. Let him
, try it, if he gets on to his knees or down,
, loosen the cord for him, by moving the
weight towards him, letting him up; and
| repeat until you can go from him in any
| direction and he dare not move. Then
i lead or ride another horse around him.
Let him try it on in different places. When
) he. gets it learned, repeat when hitched in
| the poles, and from that to the wagon, and
| in a few days he will stand without the
foot straps.

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