OSSSDGDSHSSHESSDSHSSOSSSFH ESS fh) ¢ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, $ {jpay. Addi (ovasc Ne. ote Shelf, W\ 29.42 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. J “ DN®SGO2BFGOBe® OB]O6638S6S -— ¢ > . 2 , eh * OA MF Sle “ yy ‘ " = 2 . ube WP NEAT ‘ ” y » We eS II RE LE PALS Bee Sie OT Ba OU a A Nn . (). year I as. at Washington, D. C. in the t of Congress, 7 a ng to A i ac Entered & 3 wo > GQ bs) t NM 4 bol ww § nt re} a & EE 6 @ r| - & Ss F ~ - HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE HABITS AND DISEASES OF THE HORSE AND OTHER ANIMALS. By J. ©. SCOTT. FIPTy-~-tLEUSTRATIONS. PRG TE OS aN ha x Introduction,: . . . See ~ General principles of managing ‘horabs, EEC 615, aiken eget REO ee _ Principles of thorough training of bad horses, x _ Educating horses to objects of fear, . . . fe SS AES GSS Ry rng agitate eer ee mr Halter-break the colt; =... 2 we. __. Hitching colt in stall, wD ea ae To halter-break a wild colt, ofa RS a i How to bit a colt and makea bridle, . . Objects of fear, __ Driving a colt in harness, - Horses baulking, Rai nT epee eae! | ‘Throwing the horse An Pde Vee ghar To break horses rote jumping, i Pawing i in stall and te of one foot, : . - Cribbing horses, . . ene _ Lead horse behind weapon; “axe a Bleking eaten Ae at Tye es | _ Bridle toride a wild horse, . . ... . : -_- To drive a colt before being betrisaied, te gers om 2, abe APM os ero. ae a tender-mouthed horse, ; a _ The necessity of proper management of Markee: A _ Breaking colts to harness, ND A Net res eae eet } CO NTENTS. | : _ Names and situations of the Seanad parts of the horse, - To train a horse to stand when Betting ea a carriage, ( 5 To make a horse turn his body when he turns ae Read To break a horse of kicking at his mate in a stall, To preak a horse of kicking at i ‘entering the stall, oa .. 7 iv CONTENTS. Hugging the pole, Ugly to bridle, To educate a horse not’ to get cast in Be stall, The only practical way to get a horse up that throws himself, Practical method of giving a horse medicine, Horse bad to catch, : ee To educate colt or horse not to bé tral of: ‘is heels, ree Horses afraid of the cars, Sure way of making a horse bad re bath To. break a horse to trot which is a pacer, To break single-footed horse to trot square, To break a horse afraid of umbrella or buffalo robe. Horse bad to groom, To break a horse that kicks wise he gobs the ins aridler his tail, To break any horse of switching his tail; Ladies’ equestrian horsemanship, . . To cure a cow of kicking while being milked, To lead a cow or steer behind a wagon, To make a cow let down her milk, 7 ie Practical results of making a cow let down her iia Horse bad to shoe, Shoeing, The shoe, For interfering, . Corns and how to cure, To learn a horse to appear intelligent, ‘ana other bios The trick dog, - Diseases of the dog, Diseases of the horse, — Fm A PALEY Lig ine ane ae arp Oe, ope? aye tte a “eo ee Saat “nme = ai alt Forchead. oo es ~ . > 6 00 3 OT 26. oT. Large Pastern. Small Pastern. 29. 30. 31. 32. do. 34. ama AND SITUATIONS OF THE EXTERNAL PARTS OF THE HORSE. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22, | 23. 24. Heel. Small Pastern. _ Large Pastern. — Fetlock. eae Cannon or Shank. Kn INTRODUCTION. Our object in publishing this work is to give the general : % ‘Ianagement of the horse in all things relating to the _ training and driving to which the horse is made liables— __we say made liable, because two-thirds of all bad habits _ _ are brought on by our own mismanagement. There never — ___-was a naturally ill-disposed horse foaled. All bad horses — _ are made so by bad treatment; baulky drivers make baulky — horses. We have always siamnednd in making all horses oe _ in our hands kind and gentle for all uses. | ‘ ___. We feel assured in saying that all persons who come in 4 : : possession of this work, and live up to its directions, will — be. equally successful. There is in this book all that is a needed for the breaking of any kind of a horse, and we ‘ _ have used no process not explained here. ee The principle on which we rest is kindness. We wish first to give the horse to understand that we are his friend, .. and to gain his affections. This method does not affect __ the spirit of the horse, but makes him your obedient slave : a at once. It causes him to like you, and gives him confi- _ dence when with you, because he feels that you are his — _ friend, and by caressing him and always treating him kindly the bond of affection is made strong. | tay ____ A horse broken on our system will be kind and gentle. ‘to. s ; 4g ber: every one who is soto him. The only way to spoil a horse — | is to 0 abuse and ill treat him. The blood horse i is as sensi- 8 a ik. Sa r aire ie tive as a well-bred gentleman. He don’t wish to be ‘eursédl: faa and bawled at. Always speak in a low, kind tone,—it has | a soothing effect. Ladies are the most successful in break- ing on this principle; for after gaining the confidence of the horse they are more kind, and increase the affection more than men. It is thus by love, not fear, that we gain this practical control over the horse. In conclusion, I would say our system enables a boy fifteen or sixteen years of age to handle and break to harness the wildest animal. Strength and courage are not essential, but patience, perseverance and kindness are required. The man who is void of patience cannot control and win the confidence of his horse or friend. THE aa HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. ee General Principles of Managing Horses. = x The great strength and susceptibility of the horse makes his con- ae is trol and successful management very greatly dependent upon the © ks aa skill and prudence brought to bear in his education. This requires — 3 ; a knowledge of his peculiarities of nature, and of the effects pro- et duced upon him by different causes and modes of treatment, with the art of adapting means to the end of mastering and controling bis resistance into such limits of character as we desire. 1 To properly understand the horse we must view him in his rela- tions to man, mentally. He has an understanding, not it is true like that of man, still he is animated by a spiritual principle by which he | . is made to feel and see, though with less clearness. It is, however, © os analagous to that of man. Man has an understanding, which the se : horse has not, and he has a rational and moral nature, but the horse has no sense of understanding which man does not possess. With a less strength, physically, but higher order of understanding, it must — be seen that our supremacy is not meant to be one of physical power ey only, as of brute over brute, but the domination of mind. Hence we are thrown back upon and made dependent for our mastery upon > — ‘tthe skill and resources of our ability to see and understand the_ Ge causes of resistance and counteract them by prudence and indirect — e measures. ‘ae Now it is seen that the principles of educating and governing the _ horse are essentially the same as those necessary in the education and ee government of man, with the difference of being necessary to adapt — Pe the efforts more directly to the limited understanding and control of . pene ris Sasa ae resistance of the horse. A horse understands “¥ ~ “le eee ability to resist control. the success of the effort. Bs _ first.—The prudence and skill ‘eroiigee to bear in adres pire ! convincing the intelligence of the animal, and of guarding against eet the excitements and instincts of resistance induced by fear. ee Likes: ae ane ao eg Second.—The ability to restrain resistance and enforce submission. - i * _. _Third.—The character of the resistance and the will and endurance - i we : ne of the animal to resist control. er The first consideration implies winning the confidence fe: ae -moting and encouraging obedience by patient, gentle treatment. Mota | It is this tact of the adroit encouragement of flattery that uate & aA and maintains the sympathies of the animal to submit willingly gates _ patiently to-the restraints and severities of control, the heart rebounds es Bets and stills the energies to the most willing obedience when rewarded — ae and flattered with kindness, when a sense of power is recognized and ss a felt to be absolute. Now as far as a sense of inherent power and vite He icone to inflict pain, the horse recognizes man in the position of a master, and to the degree that his power is softened by gentleness ye and affection—there isa co-operative desire to obey and submit to ie é itt. his control. To be successful in the exercise of this advantage there as a He; “must be patience, gentleness and honesty of effort and purpose. To — the degree that where there is want of this there is not oe failure Ait ___ to restrain and overcome the excitement of fear, but there is want ‘ot i et gentleness and obedience characterizing the nature of the horse. ce 4 | | Bh To enforce the obedience and successful control of the neue im- : nae plies a knowledge of such principles and methods of management as_ ie ot 7 at! wild give us power to do it. But as resistance may be general or iA local, or both, and varied in character and degree from the ‘most an vicious and determined resistance to that of some simple habit, Bah _ efforts must not only he adapted to the degree and characier of the — _ resistance, but the control must be of the most positive: and con ti Seems character. Mag peeoiess ee ee a pe “ait ee? Man’s paavuacley: 5 Man i is superior to the horse, because of his ae i Bot a i ‘< oy horse by force, had there been no law of his nature violated. Since — inability to enforce absolute and unconditional submission under all — Ey ee ee eee ‘without resorting to harsh means or inflicting pain. For, as the aim’ of _ of the physician is to subdue the force and effect of the disease by _jorse to do it as nearly as possible on a moral basis. Syme Principles of Thorough Training of Bad Horses. oe _ ance is useless; for, since his willfulness and rebellion i is based upon nh: __ +. THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED, GUIDE. 11 : horse or employ it against itself. The knowledge of training and - Managing horses_lies in this mental superiority. Man becomes superior to the ignorant horse only so far as he can manage and ‘impress him with a sense of undoubted superiority. Recognizing the need of conforming to the laws of his nature so as not to excite ~ his resistance, do not let him comprehend it possible to resist control. | Seek in the second place to disconcert and control him under all — circumstances as to impress him most forcibly with man’s power and absolute supremacy. The Necessity of Proper Management of Horses. — is ‘Prudence in conforming to the laws of the horse’s nature and win- | al ning his confidence by kindness, though indispensable, is only as the | Nae caution which guards against the force of a momentum. There is | ‘ no ability to control, and there would be no need of subduing the effects must be the result of causes, every consequence requiring the! en genius of man to combat and control must be the result of his own fee imprudence or ignorance. Harshness, and the neglect.of this neces- sary attention, while mainly the cause of mischief, lead us to infer that — les fae the absence of such causes, with corresponding regards for methods — if . of kindness, is sufficient to win the bad horse to a forgetfulness of his | ee power of resistance. The course of reasoning that teaches him man’s” ips ke circumstances of resistance; in fact, to disconcert and beat himonhis ground with the apparent ease and certainty of positive ability, E Ae using remedies the least aggravating in their action on the system, so_ “Ai the aim of the horseman should be in enforcing the submission of the a uy The horse’s confidence and rebellion being usually the result of — me long standing in successful resistance, his subjugation must be made 3 ks convincing by repeated proofs of being overmatched, and that resist- § i, “5 As we learn from. experience, there are no effects without causes; , and, as the horse becomes fearless and confident, so far as he under- : Se , nature by which he examines an object or determines upon its inno- _ cence or harm; and this is the more necessary in his early training, | \ Toe THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE! = ee cai the limited reasoning of his experience, that vinponditigiadaeteaha aim ee is the only alternative, and this you cannot prove to the understand- ei Ae Hy ing of the horse without repeating your lessons until he submits. Bone - unconditionally. : | psi aca Man has the right of control, restraint, correction, and. even S| destruction of life; but we must bear the consequences of those viola- a3 a tions of the laws of his nature to which he is thereby subjected. = Show your horse exactly what you want him to do, and endeavor to = use the patience and reason in teaching and controling him you — _ would at least believe necessary for yourself to understand, if placed — in like circumstances. * Tgnorant of the language and intentions of a tence howere se cin preserved his patience, and refrained from abuse, what progress ‘would you make asa pupil, gifted a3 you are with all iy intelli. Ma 2 ~ gence? If possible, elevate your feelings by relieeiae your ‘enolate to _ yourself, to community, and to the noble animal committed to your _ charge. Make your horse a friend by kindness and good treatment. Be a kind master and not a tyrant, and make your horse a willing servant and a slave | : | | Cte, ~ “Bdinating Horses to Objects of Fear. | x , 4 { ; ‘ ’ stands, there is no causes for fear. We should remove the cause of - mischief as much as possible, by complying with those laws of hig: |: since first impressions are strong in the horse, and once learning of - danger when once excited. Whatever the horse understands to be _ harmless he does not fear; consequently, great attention should be. | given to making him examine and smell of such as would be likely | | to frighten him in any place. A horse will never become satisfied in Rian | osc to an object that startles or frightens him by looking at it; but — i : oH ee | if you will let him approach it slowly and examine it with his nose, ie - he will very soon become satisfied it is Rot going to injure him, and — sh he will care nomore about it, and will never after frighten at it, marti 2 BS Me ever r frightful it may seem to bei in appearance. : Pr Sie “ ‘_—e* . — s J z oP ae Lae é teal ak at Cee a pew | 2) re F ,~ ' _ ‘THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. ~ 13 ~The Wild Colt. As the training of the horse must be based upon the observance of _ those principles of his nature requiring the exercise of his reason in everything forced upon his attention, and of conveying to his under- standing most clearly what is required of him, it is advisable to com- mence our lesson on the management of the horse by explaining how to proceed with the Wild Colt. The first step to be takén is to see that the enclosure in which you intend to operate upon the colt is unoccupied by anything which will distract the attention of the colt; for instance, fowls, domestic animals, etc., and all persons except the one who is to undertake the training. This latter precaution should be taken for the reason that the presence of other parties would annoy the colt. Also, that, by allowing them to be present, you would violate the conditions of your instructions. Being prepared, the object is then to get the colt into his training _ place as carefully as possible, using such gentle means as may be convenient and most likely to be successful without exciting the colt. Every farmer or person at all acquainted with the management of horses knows well enough how to do this in his own way, without being governed by any fixed rule. The next thing to be done is to Halter - Break the Colt. As soon as he appears woiee and reconciled to the restraint of the enclosure, go cautiously and slowly towards him, making no demon- _ strations at all, but talking gently, or singing, as you please. It does not understand your language, and your presence may attract his _ attention. If he begins to walk away from you, stop, but continue : - your talking or singing, and appear as careless as you can about his presence until he becomes quiet again. Then startagain, and leisurely _ approach him as before, and so repeat, as circumstances require, until _. you are close enough to touch his withers, or permit him to smell of 3 your hand, should he seem so disposed. Remember, you must be _ patient and gentle in all youractions. Now touch him on the withers _ gently, and gradually win his confidence, so that you can handle and. 5s “fet rub him on the neck or head. ‘Do not try to hold him or impose the _ least restraint; that would cause him to become excited and afraid a a= - A Lau s ea. ee 14 THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE, mt a4 | Handle the colt in thie way until he becomes ‘reconciled to your Me presence, and will suffer you to scratch him as you please. | es Now step back and take your halter quietly. The halter should be Cen of leather. Rope halters are irritable to young horses; they are so _ harsh that they hurt the head whenever the colt pulls. Being hurt, _ the colt will naturally try to get his head out of the halter, and the a more it will hurt, because the tighter and harder it will pinch, which ___-will frighten him the more, and he will try to free himself at all et. * Sh £ Le 2 . 2 . bay _ “— P hest + Ee: oo a. oY a 4 roy ( ay hazards, until he pulls himself down or breaks the halter. In that — — . - case his experience would have been a bad one, for you would have a A learned him to be a halter-puller. You hold the halter in the left on | hand, having unbuckled it, and approach the colt slowly; don’t bein | AS a hurry; give him time to smell and examine every part inhis own _ ss way. While he is examining the halter, caress and rub him; it will eee | __ further your efforts greatly to give the colt something he likes, such = _-—s ag: apples, oats, corn, salt, etc., that you can get hold of: handily. a _. Then take hold of the long strap which goes over the head with hat 0% 3 i> wight hand and carry it under his neck, while you reach the left hand eae | over the neck and grasp the end of this long strap; then lower the — “al halter just enough to get his nose into the nose-piece ; then raise it ap, es = | to its proper place, and buckle. | . eee | This is the best method to halter a colt, and, in cases of wild ones, HR 4 ) Bay perseverance and patience is required, always being careful not to we . -- become. excited or angry, for, in that case, the colt will show a great ae | deal more resistance, which, in the end, and at a great loss of time, is cae | s Sa at will have to overcome. : a | ee centre | ‘a Hitching Colt in Stall. is 4 | a (See Engraving No. 2.) | oi. io) * 4 oe Two principles are involved in controling and teaching the horse Sone | ot to submit to the restraint.of the halter while hitched. Prepare your te % | ae stall, which should be about four or five feet wide, by attaching a ; yal rope so as to bring it across and fasten firmly, so as to strike the hind — i Ps. _ parts; or you can bore holes through so as to put a pole in the same Las | manner as a rope. Now tie the halter long enough, so that, as the — ae ‘y colt attempts to go back, he will strike the rope or pole across behind 7 a } him before hv can feel the restraint of the halter. You should i in ae fs ie as in everything else you attempt, teach your colt to be gentle. © In ; shall case mee should untie the halter before — ao the ans ; ite Ria ¢ ee ee fe = Sete "% ‘ON | ) Thee ed stick, and between the nails or oN with the main part of the position. This is a new object of fear to the colt, and will be re-_ “THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 17 — or pole. Another method: take a half-inch rope, place under the } tail, cross on the back, bring forward and tie under the neck or the breast; then pass the halter-strap through the ring of the manger and tie to the rope, so when the horse pulls he will be punished, and the impression will be made stronger than the above. we a To Halter - Break a Wild Colt. | (See Engraving No. 3.) First provide yourself with a little pole about ten or twelve feet 3 ee ‘ yan pee VS > ol long; cut a notch into one end with your pocket-knife, and about — seven inches from this end drive a nail in, the head bent a little © towards the end having no notch. Next, you want a good half-inch © manilla rope, about thirty feet, with a slip noose in one end, and a — knot in the rope about twenty inches from the end with the noose, so — that it will not draw so tight as to choke the colt down, but will — allow the noose to draw tight enough to shut off his wind, so as to — prevent him from making a very obstinate resistance. Now get a ; _ short breast-strap, or a long hame-strap will do. This put into your > i pocket, convenient to the right hand, for future use. Now approach an the colt slowly and carefully, as before described, remembering that — “4 all persons must be excluded. When you:succeed in approaching to. ® within four or six feet of the shoulders, retreat slowly, as before, and — take your stick all ready prepared, holding the notched end from you — a _ and swinging it very gently a little to the right and left in a horizontal — ie eet , ' * $e) : sg ‘ —_ ree > . ‘ ' * ; / ‘ _ THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. — 19 * noose hanging below the stick, and large enough so as to be slipped over the head easily, while you keep the other end of the rope in the hand with the stick. Your halter or noose now hangs upon your stick, so spread that you can put it over the colt’s head without touching a hair. Your halter arranged, holding it before you, swing- ing upon the stick, you approach the colt in the same cautious man- ner as before, until you bring it to the nose.- This being a new Object of fear to the colt, he will smell of it cautiously. While he is smelling it, you are gradually raising it over his head—so gently, he does not feel or care‘about it until you get it well back of the ears; then turn your stick and your noose will drop on his neck. If he does not start, take the slack in your rope gently; at the same time ‘approach his shoulders cautiously, and rub him gently, if he will allow it. : x If he should endeavor to run away, keep hold of the rope. If he tries very hard to get away he soon finds himself out of wind, caused by the pressure of, the rope about the neck, consequently he will offer 5 but little resistance, and will very soon allow you to come up to him just as you please. Now you should use him gently. As soon as he will allow you to approach, loosen the noose from 4 his neck, and by kind words and caresses let him know you do not wish to hurt him. Keep on caressing him till he will allow you to rub his neck and ears. Encourage him by feeding from your hand ~ something that he likes. When he submits so far as to let you handle _ his head and neck, take. the other end of the rope and tie around, make hard knot in the end and another knot apens twenty-five teHOR, ie ‘ from the end. - -This knot should be left slack. Now take the end of the sats in the left hand and carry it under the neck to the opposite side, while you reach over with the right hand and take it and bring it over the top of the neck again. Now put the knot in the end of thecord © ‘through the other and secure by drawing it as tight as possible. Now _ make a loop by drawing it up as tight as possible. Now make a loop by | drawing a double of the slack rope under the rope around the neck. . Make the loop long enough to slip into the colt’s mouth, which can — be done easily by gently insisting on his confidence. A green colt is- not bad about taking anything in his mouth if you use judgment and ~ sf do not frighten him: Slip this loop well up above the bridle teeth, ae ) and place the lip well over " the jaw, under. the roof. Now drawup Ae SSUNUVH OL SL100 ONINVENE ) Se “8 ‘ m ae ey gam . OE ae ; “ “2 ‘ ' h % . pa n b | ” 4 : , 4 ry : ts , 4 , + *. by ‘ ” 2 > ' oa Es » od po ee. ; ma te 3 ¥ 4 “at 2S ° an tz . ay my ‘ by v P ? : oa See oe Ons i aie Sh em. tt ey . : ce ies « ee. your rope, by which you can inflict so severe a pus that ae 2 will submit in a very short time, and allow you to handle his legs iS just as you please. Persevere until you can hold the foot in your | hand, moving it gently and caressing the leg until he gets over the | fear inspired by the use of the cord under the lip. If more chose : treatment is necessary, see ‘“‘ Proper Management of Horses’ Bad to” a SHOE”? 9 © } ye ; How to Bit a Colt and Make a Bridle. : (See Engraving No. 4.) Yin es . | Take your Camanche bridle, made exactly as before described, with the exception of the loop that goes around the neck; that i os - should be made large enough to fit over the neck rather tightly wherg z : the collar is worn. Now bring your cord through the mouth from — the off side, and bring back on the near, through the loop around — the neck; now pull upon this cord.and the head will be drawn back — to the breast, tie with a bow knot and draw down close, so that .should the colt show signs of rearing backwards, with one short jerk you can relieve him, while should he go over backward with the — restraint on his neck he would be likely to injure himself. Pu Oe You are now prepared to bit. Simply pull upon the cord a Hite, which will draw the head back slightly; after holding for a short time, render loose; then draw a little tighter, and repeat forfour or five minutes, then stop bitting, and repeat at some future time. Gr a ie The. great secret not only in bitting but of training the young horse in’ any manner is in not confusing or exciting him to resistance © Ma by training too long. When your colt yields readily to the bit, you can check the head to swit. Making the check-rein rather tight causes the head to be carried high, while the delicacy given the mouth will | prevent the nose being thrown forward. This method of bitting may be regarded with little favor by those not understanding its effects, eas -put all we have further to say on the subject is, give it a fair trial. ct Teach your. colt to be perfectly submissive to your handling in every : manner, fo lead well, and to back freely at the word. Youarenow _ ready for the next atep in his training, which is usually driving aah aa ness. , Me ) Breaking Colts to Harness. | ! (See Engraving No, 5.) | ae ue _ Put on your harness wagtined which should be made t to fit ; ~ IVaGd JO SLOW! oe Himes by seh Ne 4 — 7 > a og ; ee Oe ’ - ~ . i a ma rt * . d r _ «es seatebene pen bh Py ewe Oe, os oe te Ry Fx oe! & tes Dag Pha wa ora Suc ile te es AR Die oO OR ae go ee “Soa Seiad Pele t GES Or ies Saas bins yout es be a ; . . > ae 7 4 : ea yi ah : * : ‘ . ? : a THE “aownicn EMa:: shes BOE GUIDE. 25 ~- harness, or to hitch to an old, rotten wagon, as such are liable to give way at any time. Many of the accidents causing horses to become subject to bad habits are the results of such imprudence. Let every step be made sure. Work safe, and you are sure to bring about a good result. With your harness on, allow him to stand in his stall until he becomes somewhat used to the presence and pressure of the different ~ parts, and will allow you to rattle them about without his caring for them. Now lead him around for a short time, and as soon as he appears quiet, check him up loosely and take down the reins and drive him around the yard. When he becomes familiar with the harness, check and reins, and will stop and start at the word, and _ drive around to the right or left, you can drive him about the street with safety, though in making this step put on the Camanche bridle for safety. You should then drive to sulky. We prefer a sulky at first. Let your colt see and examine every part of the sulky, until he cares nothing about it; then draw it up behind him, rattling and running it back and forth a few times, then attach the harness. Be- fore starting him, back him up against the cross-bar of the shafts. If he should act frightened speak to him calmly, but firmly, at the _ same time holding your reins firmly so as to prevent him from swing- __ a —- poe) , . Aad ‘ ao Gs 7 atte rat at ae re a. i a” GS aaa oe. ae ing round, if he should try, Then go to him and rub and caress him until he gets over his excitement. Then run the sulky up against his - haunches, at the same time soothing him by gentle words until you can shove the sulky against him just as you please and he not care anything about it. Now you can get into your seat and drive him ‘around wherever you choose without danger. Let him go slow at first, until he becomes familiarized with the objects that are new to him along the road, as he is not as liable to become frightened while going slow as when driven fast. Objects of Fear. (See Engraving No. 5 Be ae driving, be careful about using the whip too freely. If.a stone or a stump, or anything of the kind should be regarded with fear, do Som whip and drive the horse by. Let him stand a short time and look at the object until he s¢ems careless about it, then drive closer, as ae will a and so repeat, at the same time talking to him encourag- aca Grea Do not be tempted to drive your colt in an old, rotten < Are a Ne Sy tae ge er ee eae mS Se es OY ol ingly until you can drive fi. up to the A i re von sure to your colt comprehend fully that such objects are harmless—as oppor- tunity offers in this way—and he will soon become so fearless aaah confident as to be regardless of such things; but if you whip him for — caleseiige frightened at such things, he will associate the punishment _ ol with the object of his fright, and be more frightened the next time he sees it. us, _ The horse being unable to reason only from his experience, you should convince him by careful examination that the object is harm- : i # less. For example: if the sight or smell of a robe a few feet distant ie eae should frighten him, put on your Camanche bridle and take him alone into your yard or barn, lead him gently to the robe, let him smell ; of it if he will, then take it in your hand, hold it gently to his nose, ; ther rub it against his neck, side, and over his back, and so repeat | : for ashort time. After being familiarized. to it in this way, you can throw it over his back or tie it to his tail without causing him the ie least fear. | ia if To familiarize a colt to any article that he may Tae regarded with. r, - fear, let him touch it with his nose, and rub him on the neck and os . side, and in a short time, when he finds it will not hurt him, a will _ become reconciled and care nothing about it. | i ‘2 of _ Yo accustom your horse to the cars, lead him up to Cacia let him 3 “? - smell of them, and even put his nose on them, and in this, way con- ~ tinue until he becomes familiar with them. And, then, do not fail to Be ~ repeat your lessons until he cares nothing about the object. Should — rae es _ you fail by neglect it may render him worse than as. though you — tN had done seit with him. eee 4 f s L rt i . - 7 Driving a Colt in Waweek a a 1D When your horse drives well before a sulky then you may hitch @ him to a light wagon or by the side of a broke horse, and if you are. £: breaking him for a farm or for hauling heavy loads, you can gradu- - e ae e ally increase his load until he will draw to the extent of his ability — * ? : _ without comprehending that he has the tates to do. otherwise an x Sa? ‘x eae oe rs pe Tees “a! z 4 ay why ahs Pic ase ot the check- rein bring his head and neck inte sabe position ; 4 - style as his form and semper will bear, or ie Beads h Pon sae et ae ia 23 Sieg tiie a THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. | oF Caching your young horse to drive well, do not be in a hurry to see how fast he can trot. Although your colt may be old enough to learn how to move well, and perhaps drive as gently as an older horse, he is not old enough to perform the work ef an older horse fully matured. Require but little at first, gradually increasing as he develops in strength and hardens in his gaits. Care should be taken to _ keep each pace clear and distinct from each other. While walking, he should be made to walk, and not allowed to trot. While trotting, as in walking, care should be taken that he keeps steady at his pace and not allowed to slack into a walk. When occasionally pushed to his extreme speed in trot, he should be kept up to it only for a few minutes at a time, gradually requiring more as he becomes eee practiced and capable of endurance; and whenever he has done well he should be permitted to walk a short time, and encouraged by a kind word. Under no circumstances should what is termed ‘his bottom ’’ be tried and overdone. The reins while driving should be kept snug, and when pushing him to the top of his speed, keep him > | well in hand that he may learn to bear well on the bit, as it is by: means of the reins mainly that the horse, when going at a high rate | of speed, is kept steady in his place. But while you should teach your horse to drive well to the pressure of the bit, be careful not to give him the habit of pulling teo hard, for then he becomes not only unpleasant but difficult to manage. The art of drawing well cannot be taught by any written instructions. Practice and ingenuity in _ this respect can alone make a skillful horseman. Always strive to encourage and not overdrive your horse, and be careful to whip only for merited reproof. The too frequent use of the whip will © cause the horse to plunge ahead every time he sees or hears. any - unusual movement of it, or at any mishap that may occur. To Train a Horse to Stand when Getting into a Carriage. Take your horse and lead him on the barn floor; place him in the position you wish him, and say ‘‘ Whoa!” The object of this lesson being to teach him the word ‘‘ whoa”—the most important word in| horsemanship. You will proceed by stepping away from him, and, if he appears to trifle and not heed you, use the Camanche bridle, Rit, pulling upon him to warn him to attend to you. Practice this until anes Ri he will allow you to walk away in any direction without moving him > s Doe pn Soa we aa te a wine eS Mee ere: ae 28 - THE sem mantic s ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. self. Take a whip and crack it slightly, and if 2 moves, pat : him ar | back as before, increasing the cracks of the whip until you accustom — y him to stand while the whip is being flourished, and also to throw — him and apply the method of controlling a nervous horse. If you are obliged to drive him while you are trying to break him, do not use the word ‘‘ whoa,’’ as he is not yet accustomed to minding it, and : it will only make matters worse. Shift the position of the horse and repeat the lesson, putting on the harness and leading to places where he is accustomed to refuse to stand, and teach him to stand in those places, as well as teaching him to obey the word ‘‘ whoa’’ before hitch- __ ing him to carriage. Then hitch inside a building withthe doors — ‘ closed. Get in and out of the carriage, rattle the thills and shake the carriage, causing him to stand by means heretofore alluded to. If - it appears that the habit is caused by fear of the carriage behind him, a Re _take him out of the thills and lead him around it, allowing him to — examine it, and even eat oats out of a measure set in the carriage. rie Now take him out of doors, and if he renews his attempt to start, take him out of the thills and use the Camanche bridle, fetching him back between the thills, and say ‘‘ Whoa.’ You will by this means soon teach him that ‘‘ whoa” means for him to stop and stand. For the sake of not undoing all you have done, remember the caution heretofore given to say ‘‘ whoa’’ only when you mean him to stop. = Bh he Horses Baulking. (See Engraving No. 7.) This is the most aggravating of all the habits to which the bone Ms subject; it tries the patience of man to the utmost; yet, by patience EE and perseverance, with proper management, even this habit can be | broken up. It is rarely we find a baulky horse which is not a good — | one. They are usually very high spirited, quick of com pRebee rap a and of a strong nervous temperament. They resist because we have a failed to make them understand what we require of them, or it may be occur from overloading sore shoulders, or working until tired. out. | Particularly is this the case with young animals. To whip under j such circumstances only excites them to more determined resistance. On the first attempt of your horse to baulk, get out of the wagon, Fr S | pat him upon the neck, examine the harness carefully, first upon — j one side, then upon the other, speaking encouragingly to the animal — # while doing 80; then jump in Bae wpeRe, and sass the pairs, to g0; ce ~ Ls c ry ee ot R. ree, F. d at om ui - A he RSES BAUL ‘HO v -—“‘ié‘iéiés”) THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. = 31 Nh tre tye ; : a generally he will obey; if he refuses to do so, take him out of the thills, put up the traces so that they do not drag upon the ground, then take him by the head and tail, reel him until he is almost ready to fall, then hook him up again and give him the word to go. This rarely fails. It takes that sullen spirit out of them, and‘ they start at the word. I have failed but once in handling baulky horses, though I hive: handled a large number of them. By repeating the same operations every day for a week, usually breaks up this most perplexing habit thoroughly and permanently. _ 7 Another method, which often proves successful to break a horse in - double harness, is to take a hemp cord, pass around under the tail, bring forward through the terret-ring of the baulky horse and fasten to the ring of the other horse’s collar or hame; when the other horse which, in a short time, if the horse is hitched single or double, by _. taking your whip or any common stick and place on the backs of the crupper-strap, the horse will start readily. a | Throwing the Horse. (See Engraving No. 8). , ay. handling the horse, and safe. The horse lays down quietly — almost as easy as when lying down by himself in the stall. To perform the __work, procure a rope or any strap long enough to pass around the horse, and tie in a knot on the back with an iron ring, small size, tied _ fast; pass the end of the strap or rope around under the tail for a __erupper; bring the end back, fastening to the belt around the body; re ~ then take a small cord of sufficient strength to hold your heft; pass ‘ - around the horse’s neck; tie in a knot that will not slip; then pass the cord through the horse’s mouth, and stroll back to the ring on the horse’s back ; when that is accomplished, pass a strap around the near fore foot twice, and through the keeper, strapping the F N é _ from the horse, taking hold of the small cord, pulling gently till _ you have the head to the side; then, with a quick pull, bring | the horse to the ground, with his knee to steady him as he falls. % a tt can be done with ease and safety. Whatever may be the bad habit - of oT horse, it is a very good plan to give him a regular course ; "* iF ent: * ‘ is ne ee ar x oe wi 2 Tr.” Fee _ starts, the baulky one can do no other way than move with him, The only practical method of throwing a horse is easy to the person. foot to the belt around the horse; when that is done, step back — See ta yee THROWING THE HORSE. - of training, and, by throwing a horse down, and handling him just as you please while down, demonstrates to the understanding of the 4 _ animal that it is worse than useless to try to resist control. It is the best way we have ever found to handle nervous horses. After hand- __ ling gently while down they find they are not hurt, and get over their _ fear, and will allow you to do with them as you like anywhere. Pulling at Halter. (See Engraving No. 9.) i Place on him a common halter head stall. Put on a common girth. _ Take a half-inch rope, about twenty feet long. Pass the centre of this rope under the tail in’ place of a crupper; twist the rope over a _ couple of times; pass the end of the rope under the girth, bringing - anend up on each side of the neck, and pass the ends through the _ fing or place, leaving about three feet play of rope. As soon as the horse falls back, being tied by the tail to the ring, he pulls upon the tail, and the hurt coming there instead of the head, where he * expected it, he starts up, it being natural to go from the hurt. By giving him two or three lessons, making him fall by whipping him 4 _ over the nose or exciting him with an object, he is afraid of the iin- an repeating for one month, or more lessons at different times, To Break Horses from Jumping. (See Engraving No. 10.) _ fetlock. You will see that when he attempts to jump a fence the » fore foot is drawn up under him, and, as he springs to leave the cure a horse or cow of the habit. | Pawing in Stall and Kicking of One Foot. ce Get a piece of chain ten inches in length, run a short strap through — __ one of the end links and buckle it around the foot above the fetlock, or 4 ¥ 7 i . ‘ ys d < x » - ; bs oF oy ee ¢ ; v4 i i ee icy “pom ae a ay ror a : ’ ee “* * m 4 Se 5 “= THE HORSEMAN’S- JLLUSTRATED GUIDE. hae nose-piece of the head-stall under the cheek-pieces, and tie to a stout _ pression being made too strong, will not forget it,and the moreso by ‘Tie straps to the fore feet, below the knees, pass it up under a sur- _ cingle around the body, and tie the other ends above the fetlock to — straps inclosed in a ring, so one will go above, and the other below, the i _ ground, the hind feet will be pulled up, and he will inevitably remain _ ) in the lot. The value of this plan is that it will in most instances _ * . » at Tp hae ae ets mee gee Koa —~ sa Baill om . - aes oy nt - sali Bee et ie, din aS Dist oe - a A ed j a CEST SS PI A NG : : i * ; eared cm Sah : iSah fi No. 9. PULLING AT HALTER. ODNIGWAC WOU SASHOH MV¥GUA OL . F red id ‘ £ a 7 F a Pd % Ne, a ee - " 2 a 36 a piece of light Aint can be fastened to a ‘aus me's sil attach hin the foot in the same manner. When the horse attempts to. paw or kick, a the clog or chain rattles against the foot and — a — of the practice. . mitt a Cribbing Hore: oS a Les The surest remedy of breaking a cribber is to trade him off. ‘Lead Horse Behind Wagon. eee (See fhigraving No. 11.) Sale # To lead a horse behind a wagon, take a stout cord or small rope, and place under his tail, cross on the back, run through the rings of the halter; first hitch him to a post, and, by hitting him over the nose with something, or to excite him, make him pull, which will satisfy him of his useless attempts at holding back on the halter; then hitch him to the wagon, and you will find no trouble in ridin, i | home without the many inconveniences of leading. Toren Kicking in Harness. Nee ye (See Engraving No. 12.) oe ee NY te ‘ee sist Kicking may justly be regarded as a bad habit, because of the danger incident to the use of such horses. It is well to remember _ that this habit is in most cases the result of carelessness or misman-— agement. Proper attention isnot given to the fitting of the harness; the straps dangle about the flanks of the colt, unacquainted with their nature, which frightens and causes him to kick. Or, what is1 more — common, an old harness is used, and breaks at some unlucky moment, which frightens the colt, and he kicks as a means of self- defence, when his feet and legs, coming in contact with the whiffletree or cross-piece, causes him greater fright, and he becomes reckless, springs ahead in a frantic endeavor to free himself from his: tor- ne ee until he tears himself loose, or is stopped after being wor- ried out with fright and exertion. Learning fear and resistance this way, he becomes alarmed at the least indication of its re] etition. a _ This fear must be broken by familiarizing the horse with the cause na of his fear, at a time when he is powerless to resist, d, when he finds there is no danger of harm, he will cease resi anc e. n the — _ majority of cases this habit is broken by our means of. contr ‘NODVM QCGNIHWE ASHOH CVA JES ot ete Oe KICKING IN HARNESS. ‘ ‘THE ‘HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. — 39 tes Ys hice the kicking horse, you want to put him through a regular course of handling that will convince him of your ability to manage him jiist as you please, while at the same time you demonstrate to his understanding that he cannot help himself, and must submit un- conditionally to your control.. In the first place, then, give him a turn with the Camanche bridle, making him stop at the word ‘‘ whoa!” and come to you at the word. When he submiits to that, proceed still further in convincing him of your power and mastery by throw- biae him down. To do this, fasten up the near fore leg, as desciibed | ‘* Handling the Feet.’’ Now put a strong surcingle, with a ring © slipped on it, around the animal, and slip the ring to the right side of | , the horse, near the backbone. Now draw the end of your cord or Camanche bridle through the.ring, bringing it over to the near side ofthe animal; now take the halter out of the mouth, thusleaving a plain loop around the horse’s neck; then take hold of your cord with the left hand and straighten it out. Now you haye a plain double from the neck of the horse around to the ring on the right side; you put this into the horse’s mouth, and draw up the end of the cord with the right hand. Now you have him completely in your power; you — _ can handle him as easily as a boy could a top. Now step back by his _ é side. with the cord grasped firmly in your hand, and say, ‘“‘ Lie down, i, sir,’’ at the same time pulling steadily onthe rope. His foot being fast- ened up, he is easily thrown off his balance. He will gradually settle _ down on to the knee of the near leg, when a quick pull will bring him over on his side. Now you have him down, use him gently; il rub his head and neck, talk to him kindly, thus letting him know ‘that your object i is not to hurt him—that all you require is submis- d sion, and that you possess the ability to enforce that. After letting © } : E _ him lie for ‘a while, diake him get upon three legs, let him standa __ moment, then put him down again. While down, handle his feet __ and legs as you please, and so continue until he will lie still and sub- * Init to you in everything you wish. Then take the strap off hisleg t ‘f and let him get up; caress and rub his leg where the strap has been. _ Now put the harness on. Use a blind-bridle with a W bit (or some call it a double-joint bit), and, if you cannot obtain one at your har- ness maker’s, go to a blacksmith and have onemade, With this kind ‘2 ; of a bit on your horse, you want to drive him around your yard, 29 occasionally saying ‘‘ Whoa,” at the same time setting him back upon oo haunches with the bit. In a very short time he pie stop when “you say “whoa,” without any pull on the rein; ‘sien go up 8 him and caress him about the head and neck; then take your whip and switch — him around the hind legs and flanks, lightly, and, if he shows a ae position to kick or run, say ‘‘ Whoa,” sharply, at the same time correct with the bit. In your first lessons use the bit ‘with severity, thus 5 demonstrating to the horse your determination and ability to enforce — obedience under any and all circumstances of resistance. When you can drive him around with a whip at a trot, and stop him at the word without using the rein, go to him again and pat and rub him to encourage him in well-doing.’ Then attach the long cord to your ‘reins, and start him away from you at a trot, letting him go ag far as the length of your cord will permit without pulling on the bit, when in that way until he will stop and start at the word, no matter how far away he is, so long as he can hear your voice. After you have him so well in hand that he obeys readily and willingly, take the _-réins in your hand and learn him to back, encouraging him by kind-— ness when he does right, and correcting with the bit when he shows the least intimation to be rebellious and stubborn. When he will back at. the word, back him aguinst your buggy-wheels, keeping an eye on his movements, and, if he shows fear and a disposition to get away from. it, do not force him against it at first, but drive him __ aroundand up toit, letting him smell and examine it until he becomes ° a a) We is agg back against it—and if he is ‘disposed to kick, say ‘‘ Whoa,’’ sharply, at the same time giving him a short, quick jerk with the rein, ‘ By this treatment he finds that you still have the same power in your hands that has already controlled him so ‘completely and easily ; _ therefore, he submits unconditionally. Youcan now proceed to hitch him up; watch him closely, and if anything should excite him _ say “‘ Whoa,” and if he does not obey instantly, set him back with the bit in a manner that shall leave no doubt of your ability to control him at will. If handled in this way fora few times, he becomes con- vinced of the uselessness of resistance, and careful management for — ‘two or three weeks will radically break the worst horse of this kind | i ng x! | manneing Raking and Passed horses. The pil . laws af meu ‘whi, X: n fx > VR ee ree ka Ce URN co hy / OUE oN Ne iv Cee dat oye 40 THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE, = at é 4 ee ee ae ee aia ikon a ees you willsay ‘‘ Whoa.” If he stops, go up and caress him, and keep on — satisfied it is not going to hurt him; then back him up to it again— / momentarily, and he should manifest a desire to repeat his old habit, — oF _ Wweever saw. People have often expressed wonder at our success in er Ae a a ae ae ao 2 eV ee ele ee Te ee hh re Bee iu A ; Re Se Coe GaN Mee PM MUSE Se ae a eat |e TS ULC AA Ne | ls: if ah > Ad r A ' y fy Pe ew rir ‘ ee aes ‘ a a aS cm : a ee ee _ THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. | 41 mal, the control is looked upon as the result of a peculiar gift. But _ we do conirol them perfectly and thoroughly by the word ‘‘ whoa.” In _ breaking to the word, we use means that compel obedience. If your horse minds the word quickly and stops at your bidding, he is not _ going to do you or himself any damage by kicking; for if you stop him whenever the old habit is brought to mind, and let him stand until the excitement is over, he will have no incentive for kicking, _ and in a short time will forget the habit altogether. So with Bf beset Tg, Lan. fief _. ee +. or oe ‘The Runaway Horse. | Handle with the Camanche bridle, and by throwing the same as % the kicking horse in harness, unless the habit is caused by fear of _ 4 some object, such as an umbrella, buffalo robe, or anything else that. 7 may frighten him and cause him to run away; if that should be the ‘4 case, when you have him down take the frightful object—whatever it _ may be—around him, throw it on to him, at the same time rub and a caress him: let him know it is nothing that will hurt him; then let him up; put it on or over him, rub him with it; and in that way familiarize him With it until he cares nothing about it. .Thentrain } him in harness until he will mind the word ‘‘ whoa.’’ Makehimrun, — a and if he does not stop at ‘the word, stop him by the bit. so suddenly a as to disconcert him and destroy his confidence completely. — Although we have given a powerful means of coercion, and of | ____ impressing the horse of his jnability to resist the power of man, still, | _ practical and thorough as those means are, they are of but little : account if not used with prudence and judgment. Men are tooapt to depend upon main strength and stupid harshness for success.in the management of horses. And with equal stupidity, the basis of con- trol we have here given may be made in the hands of some a power to be abused with reckless disregard of consequences. Be firm, per- _ severing and prudent in the exercise of your power when it is neces- __ gary to impress your subject with a sense of mastery; but be gentle, __ attractive and affectionate when he is obedient and submissive. Tram ____ your horse thoroughly with the Camanche bridle each time before hitching up. We find by experience that horses subject to bad habits ____ are ungovernable in the mouth. If we govern the mouth well, we p | : have, in almost every instance, a good control of the horse; and it is — BS. os .an important requisite, under .all circumstances, in the control of a _Rorues in harness. Final control while driving, until thorough and Sole ds be a feces THE ‘HORSEMAN’ SS) ILLUSTRATED oumE. - certain obedience is insured to the eine ‘Strive to tell vote ee e exactly what you want him to do, and do not confuse him by attach- bp be ing different meanings to the same word. It is quite common to say ie ‘* whoa” when it is intended to go slower, or to attract the attentionof — a the horse when standing, to let him know of your presence. Now, it” ° anything should happen, and you wished him to stop suddenly, he a would not be likely to mind without a pull at the bit; and why bd 4 _ should he, as long as he has been learned, in-that hap-hazard way, ; 4 that: ‘“‘whoa’”’ meant anything and nothing at thesame time? Such — ny training confuses the horse so much that, though he is naturally obe- - ee A dient and tractable, he will become careless and obstinate. Have a rene 4 distinct word for every command, and make him understand that ae c _ every command must be obeyed. Speak in a natural tone of voice to x , i | your horse under all circumstances. Nothing confuses a horse more a than screaming at him to have him hear. He is as acute in the sense eared hearing as 4 man, and so sensitive, if nervous, as to have his Duley. i? “a increased from six to ten beats a minute by one harsh: word. Have va your horse understand that things likely to frighten are harmless, and — i ie as -be sure not to whip: for being frightened. If your horse is frightened — at a t anything approaching, let him stand until it passes, but hold the 7 i ae reins snug and firmly, or hemay swing-round and upset you. : If cars.o<.. are passing, and are regarded with fear, let your hotse face them, but ba hold him immovable with the reins. Always, under such circum- F stances, talk encouragingly to him, remembering the slower you Ae ‘move him the more power you have over him, There is but little re ane ee ee danger of a horse kicking after being stopped or while moving: ; Banik slowly, and so with the runaway. He will seldom make a second ne attempt at the time he has been foiled and stopped. A horse fright- — A ened becomes reckless; consequently, never raise an umbrella sud ous = denly or unexpectedly behind a horse afraid of such. ‘things. First 5 iid < ‘raise | it at his head and gradually carry it back, and. then, to make — a ‘ % ‘sure, if you have not a dit that will control your horse easily, put on fe aoe e7 a Camanche bridle and carry it back in the wagon or buggy. Fear um ve Pe and anger is something that a good horseman should never exhibit j in jai his countenance or voice, as the horse is a close observer, and soon | al ~Jearns to take advantage of such ‘indications to become careless, ¢ en ae excited by anger, may: become aggressive or unmanageable, x your lessons be ‘thorough, but not very long. Be gentle and pa atic ‘ %. with the colt, but make the willful, stubborn horse 5 ‘THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. © 43 bs 2 extent of your power. Make the old reprobate know that the only -___ alternative is unconditional submission to your will; though, if he _ ‘should become too much beated and excited, it is prudent to stop, and repeat the lesson at some future time; but repeat until there is _ your treatment be characterized by gentleness and good nature. | Bridle to Ride a Wild Horse. (See Engraving No. 18.) | " To. Drive a Colt before being aes set ; (See Engraving No. 14.) a Place on him a _ Bonaparte bridle, with the cord eighteen or beanies feet long, driving him around you in a circle, first one way, then — reverse and drive the other, your rope acting as a lead and drive- : 3 ; ein: ; stopping him at the word ‘‘ whoa,” and starting him by the usual © ___-word, until he will stop and start at the word of command; then ; place the lines inthe tug-strap, and drive carefully around the yard. © a To make a Horse Turn his Body when he Turns sistas his: Head. oe : Bis é er; (See Engraving No. 15.) sé @ | Place the lines in the shaft-straps, dropping them arfrctidh his quar- a and, after a few lessons, when you = on the reins, the body will _ give freely with thehead. os a To Break: a Horse of Kicking at its Mate ina Stall. a ‘ ee (See Engraving No. 16.) me 3 Put on 1 the Bonaparte bridle, with the small loop on the lower jaw, letting the cord pass back to the hind leg. Attach it to a small ring, _ fastened around the leg, with two hame sepa above and below the Me BS | or. ~ gambol joint. e. | To Break a Horse of Kicking at Persons Entering = | the Stall. 3 es e (Bee Meee No. 1%. ) thorough and unconditional submission. After a horse submits, let. — ters, when, by turning his head, you can force him to turn his bari : oat WwW 3 RP 2 ‘GUSSUNUVH DYNIGA TUOAAA LION V GAG OL vr o aan a eee te Ree < is = = iy » ye Oy Si ey ay A tis . sO ea? ee) iw he ee sty * AE re So Ee ¥ 2 ; 4 IAS fy " ‘ = 1 sy tpn? o£ Pj 1 a i ee oF \* : * . s y - 4 - * - 4 oh Tar a ei. ; 1 = _- THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. ae on i up over ‘the head, and down through the loop on the jaw. ; a Run the cord through a small ring, fastened by means of a staple to ' _ the side of the stall, a little back of the horse’s head. Pass the cord © back to another ring fastened in the side of the front of the stall. _ When you enter the stall pull on this rope, and, at the same time, say, ‘‘Go over.” The head of the horse will be thus drawn towards . _ you, and his heels must go to the other side of the stall. Most horses will be broken 6f this very dangerous habit in two or three lessons. Luggers on the Bit. ‘Buckle a pair of straps about twelve inches long, with a ring at one end, and a-buckle at the other, to the check-piece, and let the , straps pass through the rings on either side of the bit; buckle the lines to the rings on these straps, instead of the rings on the bit; this forms a gag similar to the French twitch gag, and is a powerful ~ means of controlling thé mouth of a hard-pulling horse. Also place ad a hame-strap around the nose, so they cannot open the. mouth. — oe ‘To Harken: a Tender-Mouthed ‘Horse. Place the bits in the animal’ s mouth as low as possible, not to have - them drop out, and drive him from two to three weeks with the bits — in this way, and when ‘id are buckled up in proper place he is hard- _ mouthed. ‘ Lolling the Tongue. Some horses ink the habit of carrying the tongue out of the sae at . i. of the mouth. This is generally confined to a narrow-jawed horse. va _ The space between the molar teet being too narrow to contain the tongue in the mouth when the bit presses upon it, without coming — ; in contact with the edges of the molar teeth. To prevent this, the — a a tongue is thrown out over'the bit, and hangs from one side of the | Hy - s ‘mouth. 'To remedy this defect, take a common bar-bit, and drill‘ a ce a ‘a Be Ke hole on either side, about three-quarters of an inch from the centre _ of the upper surface of the bit; then fake a piece of sole leather, a fox inches long and two inches wide, sprinkle it over with rosin and _ burn it into the leather. This renders it proof against the action of — et i‘ ES the saliva in themouth. Drill two holes in the centre of the leather, | 3 . ¢ ne Os sponding with thoae in ape nee and secure both together ee oe ¥r me PT St ee rate 7 TO BREAK A HORSE OF KICKING AT ITS MATE IN A STALL. : eget S a eee Fg A oN ASAT GET ERY ea ey JEM a. ssa. Se ‘os No. 17. “4 a aote aay ness = Ln oes witiin ts Ae bn vin P OVS + rs 4 ~~ TO BREAK A HORSE OF KICKING AT PERSONS ENTERING THE STALL. fheghes below it. This put in the mouth keeps: the PAL = clear of the molar teeth, and prevents the animal getting: it over | ; the bit. Hugging big Pole. - This is a great annoyance to the other horse, and he will prea " learn to do the same thing, not from imitation, but from leaning Be inwards, so as to enable him to stanu against the other horse leaning — 1 upon him. This habit may be brcken up by securing a piece of sole — leather to the pole upon the side where the animal leans, having a a ~ number ef tacks driven through it in such a manner as to Bromnse:: from the leather towards the horse. Ke : . re = _ Ugly to Bridle. | rit a Some horses are ugly to bridle, from having been knodked: or 4 roughly handled, about the head. Horses are occasionally troubled — with tender ears, and have some tenderness about the mouth; such animals refuse to be bridled from fear of being hurt; nothing but kindness and careful handling will accomplish our purpose. In such — 1s cases, where the habit arises from previous injuries, or from neliness of disposition, take a cord, put the end in the mouth, draw it tightly — and take a half- hitch: this confines the head and prevents the animal . from raising it. In this position the horse will allow you to put on - and take off the bridle at pleasure. . After putting it on, remove ie : several times, unloose the cord and repeat. the oe Bac: time a ine an nimal resists draw the cord a ae : rh Yarn | To Educate a | Horse not to Get Cast in ‘the Stal, ; 4 Bee ipnaien Ne. 18.) ‘ ) ‘TTVLS GHL NI LSVO LHS OL LON HSHOH V WLVONGH OL % “- eta iy 9 TV -— rs wet *¢ 3 act 2 ’ ee nee 8 pm annie: ghey |e gt Semen pcan gory . Ee a cae ae svat Bares) < ee ee er the eae and cut it off, attaching a snap to the end; ‘aaa a da in the halter at the top of the head, in the center. ‘Now, when his hea ead raises up, the weight comes down; when his mouth is on the floor ns he can lie down with ease, but he cannot get the top of his head to the floor; and, if he cannot gét the top of his head to the floor, he — cannot roll; and, if he cannot roll, he cannot get cast. This remedy — is as simple as it is certain, and is always perfectly safe. 42h na ig ot q | \ ‘The only Practical Way to get a Horse up that Throws Himself. (See Engraving No. 19.) ~ 4 a ‘dicate Mele > Se "Practical Method of Giving a Horse Medicine, (See Engraving No. a ) ms xh ae ae ft il "Horse Bad to Catch. =e (See Engraving No.21.) 3 i . 4 i : First. use Camanche cide as applied in breaking wild colt, then ve % bec ‘a ie e Ss _ < m 2 a eS OS ore OE hs ar fod rm orev ‘SuvoO HAL fo GIVUdV SasSdOH - Gee Engraving No. Py ) ee an ny hey oO To beak. a Horse to Trot. which is a . Pacer. (See Engraving No, 2. ye 4 Take four hame-str aps, two on each hind leg, witha ring a on the front of the leg to both straps; also place on each fron a strap just below the knees; then place on the horse a leather ‘sure: n- gie, fastening a strap from the nigh front leg to the hind off one; ross S- ing them under the belly; now commence to drive your horse slowly, as the new action may cause him to stumble; continue to increase -movement, and in a few moments you. will sce the Diemer of Set -your-pacer trot. . dee (See Engrdving No. 26.) Put on stra ps as seen in engraving, moving slow at first, and, nee e time you have gone half a mile, your horse, at his full rate of speed aya | will be trotting square. Continue to exereise for a number of times, ie till your horse has got confidence in himself; also, be careful ‘not to are a horse of this class with too much weight or load behind him. “To Break Horse Afraid of Umbrella or Buffalo Re ' D ‘ , (See Engraving No. 27%. ) it fs Place on the horse bridle (as seen in engraving 23, for c car ead " straps explained. Present the umbrella or buffalo-robe, slo him ~ tosmell of it; then rub it across his nose and head; open it g ently “A at the same time allow him to smell of it several times; work x % till he becomes reconciled to it, and in a few lessons i vanes to use the umbrella 1 in any ae around him. Weise Bad to Groom. > (See Selah’ No. 28.) “ei ; x a3 aH 8 ee ", er" My o% 3 rates ad Se et ae in Ce ag . HOLVO OL Ava asxou % © i eS as a A Nae Peeindes APTS Staph : seed eS ene Sete AO A Se es = ry 3-4 Diy: Riew set oi: GUVNOS LOUL OL ASUOH AHLOOTHIONIS UVTUA OL TO BREAK HORSE AFRAID OF UMBRELLA OR BUFFALO ROBE. : | Woous OL dvd FSUOH Sch Ne at ns D ea same time using the word ‘‘ whoa.” It he remains «uct, cares him, — and after a little, by patient and kind words, he will know you ‘do no wish to hurt him, and submit patiently. It may | be necessary to use , | the cord a number of times before a thorough. cure is ic ae \ Cis To Break a Horse that Kicks aien he gets, ae Line under his Tat. (See Engraving No. 29.) | Tae x on | Lay the horse down, and, by applying a rope or strap ‘sare the j . tail (as scen in engraving), working back and forth fur a number ats ) RORAP PS, you get a nervoushess out, and he cares nothing for ode. peak To Break any Horse of Switching dh his Tail. (See Engraving No. 30.) \ Nas _ Place on Oe horse = ise seen in the inci a collar and a tame. rings. Then does on. thie horse a cotianee vagestdnie to hold the ae ; in their proper places, turning the horse out in a close yard | or k m z -floor,.. and let him or her kick or do as they please for nine hours ¢ rs ‘more, according to the strength of cord in the tail; and at the end of ie ; “that time you may untie the tail, and have no fears of switchis : any more. Ladies’ Equestrian Horsemanship. (See Engraving No. 31). . The saddlery for the use of the ladies is similar in ihe le'to that devoied to gentleman’s riding, with the exception — bes ne bits and reins of the bridle are lighter and more ornamental, and and the — saddle furnished with crutches for side-riding; the reins are narror er - than those used by pesaloney, but otherwise the same. ‘The s sad¢ "IIVL SIH UFANN ANTI HL SLAO TH NAM SNOIM LVHL ASUOH V MVAUA OL ‘6G “ON | . Aer ane: a AN . ery aid a, No. _ TO BREAK ANY HORSE OF SWITCHING HIS TAIL. . On “dIHSNVWASYOH NVIMLSEAda SaIGVT aa Sr ¥ S.. Wiehe ? a fhe abe, — oe Sn ne ee —~ + a * 68 THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. places. The stirrup may either be Ike a man’s with a lining of leather or velvet, or it may be a slipper, which is safer, and also ‘easier to the foot. The lady’s whip is a light affair, but, as her horse ought seldom to require punishment, it is carried more to threaten than to give punishment. A spur may be added for a lady’s use; it is sometimes needful for the purpose of giving a stimulus at the right moment. If used, it is buekled on to the boot, and a-small opening is made in the habit, with a string attached to the inside, which is then tied around the ankle, and thus keeps the spur always projecting beyond the folds of the habit. A nose-martingale is generally added for ornament; but no horse which throws his head up is fit for a lady’s use. The lady’s horse ought to be a most per- fect goer, instead of being, as it often is, a stupid brute, fit only for a dray. | Many men think that any horse gifted with a neat outline will carry a lady; but it is a great mistake; and if the ladies themselves had the choice of horses, they would soon decide to the contrary. The only thing in their favor, in choosing a lady’s horse, is that the weight to be carried is generally light, and therefore a horse calcu- lated to carry them is seldom fit to mount a man, because the weight of the male sex is generally so much above that of an equestrian lady. Few of this sex who ride are above one hundred and thirty pounds, and most are below that weight. But in point of soundness, action, mouth and temper, the lady’s horse should be unimpeach- able. A gentleman’s horse may be good yet wholly unable to canter, and so formed that he cannot be taught; he, therefore, is unsuited to a lady; but on the other hand, every lady’s horse should do all his paces well. Many ladies, it is true, never trot; but they should not be furnished with the excuse that they cannot because their horses will not. In size, the lady’s horse should be about fifteen hands or from fourteen and a half to fifteen and a half; less than this allows the habit to trail in the dirt, and more, makes the horse too lofty and unwieldy for a lady’s use. In breaking the lady’s horse, if he is of good temper and fine mouth, little need be done to make him canter easily, and with the right leg foremost. This is necessary, because the other leg is uncomfortable to the rider from her side position on the saddle; the breaker, therefore, should adopt the means elsewhere ~ described, and persevere until the horse is quite accustomed to the — pace, and habitually starts off with the right leg. He should also ~ Teas eee Tah Prat ras Se beeeee Aart 4. Te. x nN a es ray +35 s *, FAAP 5. 6 “Silt “yy , a a oan “ s Ce ta* ¥* ° i j - ‘ - THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 69 is A Siend him thoroughly, so as to make him canter well on his hind legs, and not with the disturbed action which one so often sees. The curb must be used for this purpose, but without bearing too strongly upon it; the horse must be brought to his paces by fine handling rather than by force, and by occasional pressure, which he will yield. to and play with if allowed, rather than by a dead pull. In this. _ way, by taking advantage of every inch yielded, and yet not going _ too far, the head is gradually brought in and the hind legs as gradu- ally are thrust forward, so as instinctively to steady the mouth and prevent the pressure which is feared. When this “sitting on the haunches’’ is accomplished, a horse-cloth may be strapped on the near side of the saddle, to accustom him to the flapping of the habit; but I have always found, in an ordinarily good-tempered horse, 4 that if the paces and mouth were all perfect, the habit is sure to be borne. ‘ It is a kind of excuse which gentlemen are too apt to make, that their horses have never carried a lady; but if they will carry a gentle. 3 man quietly, they will always carry a lady in the same style, though _ they may not perhaps be suitable to her seat or hand. The directions efor holding the reins, and for their use, elsewhere given, apply equally __-well to Jadies; the only difference being that the knee prevents the — _ hand being lowered to the pommel of the saddle. This is one reason why the neck requires to be more bent for the gentleman’s use, | because, if it is straight, or at all ewe-necked, the hands being nee _ raise the head into the air, and make the horse more of a “‘ star gazer” y | ‘than he otherwise would be. Many ladies hold the reins as in driving. © It is in some respects better, because it allows the hand to be lower than the gentleman’s mode, and the ends of the reins fall better over | the habit. {!n mounting, the horse is held steadily, as fora gentle q man’s use, taking care to keep him well up to the place where the : p madly stands, from which he is very api to slide away. The gentle- | man assistant then places his right hand on his right knee, or a little | 4 below it, and receives the lady’s left foot. Previousiy to this she ‘7 = _ should have taken the rein in her right hand, which is placed on the . - middle crutch; then with her left on the gentleman’s shoulder, and yy her foot in his hand, she makes a spring from the ground, andim- — mediately stiffens her left leg, using his hand, steadied by hisknee, “ = 8 a second foundation for a spring; and then she is easily lifted Bee 70 THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. to her seat by the hand following and finishing her spring with what | little force is required. As she rises, the hand still keeps hold of the crutch, which throws the body sideways on the saddle, and then she lifts ber right knee over the middle crutch. After this, she lifts her- self up from the saddle, and the gentleman draws her habit from under her until smooth; he then places her left foot in the stirrup, including with it a fold of her habit, and she is firmly seated, and should take her reins, and use them as directed for the gentleman. The great mistake which is constantly made in mounting is in the use of the lady’s knee, which should be carefully straightened the moment it can be effected; for if kept bent it requires a great power to lift a lady into the saddle, whereas, with a good spring and a straight knee, she ought to weigh but a few pounds in the hand. The lady’s seat is very commonly supposed to be a weak one, and to depend entirely upon balance, but this is the greatest possible mistake; and there can be no doubt from what is seen in private, as well as in the circus, that it requires as great an effort of the horse to dislodge a good female rider, as to produce the same effect upon a gentleman. Even with the old single crutch, there was a good hold with the leg, but now that the third is added, the grip is really a firm one. When. this is not used, the crutch is laid hold of by the right leg, and pinched between the calf of the leg and the thigh, so’ as to afford a firm and steady hold for the whole body, especially when aided by the stirrups. But this latter support merely preserves the balance, and is useful also in trotting; it does not at all give a firm, steady seat, though it adds to one already obtained by the knee. When two crutches are used, the leg is brought back so far as to grasp the crutch as before, but between the two knees the two crutches are firmly laid hold of, the upper one being under the right knee, and the lower one above the left. The right knee hooked over the crutch keeps the body from slipping backwards, whilst the left keeps. it from a forward motion. and thus the proper position is maintained. — In all cases the right foot should be kept back, and the point of the toe should scarcely be visible. These points should be carefully kept in view by all lady riders, and they should learn as soon as possible to steady themselves by this grasp of the crutches without reference to the stirrup-iron. In spite of her side-seat, the body should be square to the front, with the elbow easily bent and pre- served in its proper position by the same precaution. ‘The whip is generally held in the right hand, with the lash pointing forward, and towards the left, and by this position it may be used on any part of _ the horse’s body by reaching over to the left and cutting before or behind the saddle, or with great ease on the right side. Its use may, therefore, in all cases be substituted for the pressure of the leg in the _ description of the modes of effecting the change of leg, turning to the left or right, or leading with either leg. With this ndibbsti pation and with the caution against all violent attempts at coercion, which are better carried out by the fine hand and delicate tact of the lady, _ ,all the feats which man can perform may well be imitated by her. . In dismounting, the horse is brought to a dead stop, and his head held by an assistant; the lady then turns her knee back again from the position between the outside crutch, takes her foot out of the stirrup, and sits completely sideways; she then puts her left hand on the gentleman’s shoulder, who places his right arm around her waist, and lightly assists her to the ground. Pa ; _ To Cure a Cow of Kicking while being Milked. "oy _ (See Engraving No. 32.) | First tie secure to a post or in the stable. Then place on the cow a _ Bonaparte bridle (as seen in the engraving), passing the rope around one leg, and tying to the other, on the side which you sit down to 4 “milk at; then take a pole and touch your cow lightly, making her ) kick a few times, which will punish her in the mouth; and, after a _ few lessons of this kind, it never fails to radically cure them. In - _ Ue Sage young cows, use them gently, never using harsh language _ . ora loud voice; and only in willful, stubborn cows will it be neces- - sary to use the cord, and even then only use with the hand. Punish them when they do wrong, and caress them gently when they do et To Lead a Cow or Steer behind a Wagon. ; (See Engraving No. 38.) ses on the cow a Bonaparte bridle, and give them a jerk to the ke * KS ry le. i \ ie > at: 5a small strong cord, eighteen or twenty feet long, divide in the mid- 7 die, and place under the tail; bring each end through the halter and % tie to ne ‘wagon, get in » and go eee and when you get home you “THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. a. Sant or left a few times; then place on them a rope halter; then take © et-Je > 4 ge CH 2 ll a a NR a ea a oe | se, ; ln ae <— + \ : - ri es > : * 2 = - at ay r od - ‘NODVA V GNIHWE UAALS AO MOO V AVHI OL Rg techy te 7 Som ———_—_ To Make a Coe: Let. Down hoe Mik, (See be ad a No. 34.) Practical Result of Making a Cow het Down her A So ae oe . se “oe ? : (See Engraving No. 35.) Mad a | ea Dee A To procure the above results, it will be necessary to use from fifty to sixty pounds weight. : he. nes 7 yA , i \ . r : A pg ane ae Horse Bad to Shoe. See Engraving No. 36.) a a ee Pep ws ‘ F-44 ri vi Re okS —s wihig teats at a ee The habit of resistance to being shod, or allowing the feet b ier handled, like all others to which horses are subject, is the result ro, hasty and imprudent harshness. It would seem, from the reckless iz disregard of consequences so generally evinced in handling young © horses, as though man doubted his own reason, and would not take — counsel of the teachings of prudence. If the feet had been handled gently at first, and blacksmiths had not vented so much of their ae vexation in the way of pounding with the hammer for every 1 tile movement. of resistance in shoeing, this habit would never have been n oa | contracted. The natural tractability of the horse causes him to yie eld a ready obedience to all reasonable demands that he comprehends. — eu | If the feet are jerked up roughly, and without an effort to recone cile Fs him to being handled, the colt will strive to get away or free hims ro) ae ~ from what he supposes will hurt him. Never hold to the foot with | “e | all your might when the colt is trying to jerk it away, for in such a = | case strength is not your forte, and your struggles only convince the ) ee horse of your weakness. Handle the horse in conformity with the laws of his nature, so as not to excite resistance through fear of — ; injury. If the horse does not very much resist the handling of his — a < - feet, put the Camanche bridle on him and put a short strap on mee | hind foot. Pulling upon the strap will bring the foot forward, oy he will probably resist by kicking. The instant he’ kicks, reprc yy ‘ with the Camanche bridle, which is held in the other hand, er oO continue until the foot is submitted without resistance. ‘But pk Yo ur iS ae is very bad, take a strap or rope about twelve bie: ne d tie one end of’ it ina eee around his neck where the collar rests ee —— a we +. ae Pee eres 2 Py, eg OS eee a. Sect f 7 Oe ee nO a hoe | ps MTIW UAH NMOG LAT MOO V UNVW OW : ‘ \ Mi Yi i : omy = Pus STAN ete pte vngaree Nan ke ee ecg ater. S 3 ‘ “ed MEN Lege aleses x i , ; ‘t Pelt . WAS ap eS nes mt : 3 : 3 > ; : > $ : ; ; € 3 : 2 Si y / e} ‘PRACTICAL RESULT OF MAKING A COW LET DOWN HER MILK. ~ : ; Sy eS as: . GqOHS OL GVd FSUOH et HO wy Amine, Oe ee ot Bee : tee helene the fetlock: Hibnie back between the a pve iva - loop around the neck. ‘Now step in front of the horse and take a _ firm hold of the rope or strap, and give a quick pull upon it, which | __-will bring the foot forward. If the horse is bad, pull the foot as far : forward as you can, which will give you the more advantage, — The rae _ horse will try to free the foot by kicking. ‘Hold the head firmly with the — ee left hand, and with the other hold the strap firmly. Stand right sate 3 to the horse’s shoulder and whirl him about you, which you can easily — _ do while he struggles to free himself. As soon as he yields, handle com foot. gently, and ve let up on it a little, and 80 continue — os | a ne : it . to Banal the foot with the greatest een _ If your rope is rough, put a collar on the neck instead of the eens and fasten your strap to it. Use a smooth, soft strap, so as not to ) ar the foot where it passes around it. | Shoeing. _ If we examine the horse’s foot while in the natural aha it will be : Found to be almost round and very elastic at the heel, the frog broad, | _ plump, and of a soft, yielding character; the comimissures open and — as th Nai defined, the sole concave; ee outside crust. from the heel to the consequently, as the foot grows it becomes a and longer i i pro- portion to the amount of horn secreted, and narrower and shorter in eS verion to the LOL surface. et a shoe were fitted nie pand ¥ rs ae <4 . ; ‘The brtaciples aie should govern in shoeing are few an and it is surprising, considering the serious b Conese ieee iy ge aves - es wats eee phe is fat eres oe ee p Pag re a ‘ or i = * ies a Ea ae ions my * 4 pate + hy pe Pir a gt Xe ash ¥ - THE HORSEMAN? . “TLLUSTRATED GUIDE. 79 that it Mhould be done with so little consideration. The object of the shoer should be, in trimming and preparing the hoof for the shoe, _ _ to keep the foot natural, and this involves, first, the cutting away of " any undue accumulation of horn, affecting in the least its health and '| freedom; second, to carry out in the shape of the shoe that of the i foot as nearly as possible; third, to fit and fasten the shoe to the ~ _ foot so.as least to interfere with its health, growth and elasticity. ' The preparation of the foot requires the cutting away of about the : proportion of hern which, coming in contact with the ground, would — ak - have worn off, or which has accumulated since being shod last. If ‘ is the shoes have been on a month, the proportion of horn that was secreted in that time isto be removed. If two months, then the pro- ____ portion of two months’ growth. No definite rule can be given; the judgment must be governed by the circumstances of the case. The bh a _ stronger and more rapid the growth of the foot, the more must be -_ cut away; and the weaker and less horn produced the less to the ___ extremity of simply leveling the crust a little, the better to conform ‘ » totheshoe. There is generally a far more rapid growth of horn at Gee the toe than at the heels or the quarters; more will be required to be pe | taken off there than off the other parts. Therefore, shorten the toe — eB ___ and lower the heels until you succeed in bringing down the bearing — e - surface of the hoof upon the shoe to almost a level with the.live — horn of the sole. Be careful to make the heels level. Having low. a a ered the crust to the necessary extent with the buttress or knife, — . 2 _ smooth it down level with the rasp. The sole and frog detach Oy i 4 exfoliation as it becomes superabundant. The sole, therefore, would not need paring were it not for the restraining effect of the shoe __ upon the general functions of the foot, which is liable to prevent: a such detachment of the horn. We would be particular, also, in im-— ___ pressing the necessity of not confounding the bars with the substance Y me; of the sole, and setting them down to the common level with the — sole. Any man of common sense can see that the bearing of the bars — as should be equal to the outside of the crust upon the shoe, and that — | _ they offer a decided resistance to the contraction of the heels. The)” 4 i, eeutting ‘away of the bars to give the heels an open appearance is _ inexcusable, and should never be done. In a natural, healthy eondi- aa tion, the frog has a line of bearing with the hoof, and, by its lage _ nature, acts as a safeguard to the delicate machinery of the foot , 7 pertiarely o over it, and hele to paths the foot in its natural state a . a C a in "5 “4 | 80 THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. by Keeping the heels spread. It seems to be wisely intended to give eat. life and health to the foot. Permitting the heels to grow down, with the addition of high-heeled shoes, raises the frog from its natural position and causes it to shrink and harden, and bears, in conse-— quence, an important influente in setting up a diseased action that — usually results in contraction of the foot. If the heels are square ~ and high, and the hoof presents rather a long, narrow appearance, and is hollow on the bottom, there is a state of contraction going on, and you must not hesitate to dress down thoroughly. Do not hesi- ‘ tate because the foot will appear small.. Cut away until you are well down to a level with the line horn of the sole, and, if the foét is weak, use the same prudence in not cutting it away too much. The shoer must always bear in mind that the sole must not rest on the shoe. Let the foot be so dressed down, and the shoe sc approximate, that - the bearing will come evenly upon the crust all the way around with- out the sole touching the shoe. This requires the crust to be dressed level, and, although well down to the live horn of the sole, it should always be left a little higher. The corners between the bars and crust should be well pared out, so that there is no danger of the sole resting upon the shoe. Presuming that we have said enough on the subject of paring, we will now consider The Shoe. | The main object should be to have the shoe so formed as to size, weight, fitting and fastening as to combine the most advantages of protection and preserve the natural tread of the foot the best. In weight it should be proportioned to the work or employment of the horse. The foot should not be loaded with more iron than is neces- sary to preserve it. If the hoof is light, the shoe should be light also; but if the horse work principally on the road, his shoes should be rather heavy. In its natural state, the foot has a concave sole sur- face, which seems to offer the greatest fulcrum of resistance to the horse when traveling. Most of the shoes now in use by intelligent shoers are fashioned on this principle; and, aside from the advantage of lightness and strength, they are considered to be an improvement on the common flat shoe. Geo. H. Dadd, veterinary surgeon, said once on the subject of shoeing: ‘‘ The action of concave feet maybe compared to that of the claws of a cat, or the nails on the fingers and toes of aman. The nails and toes are the fulcrum; they grasp, as = Or Ps 2 eS tee. aS ee a oh Re ea hd Dreeen THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. i ae were, the bodies with which they come in contact, and thus they secure a fulcrum of resistance when traveling or grasping.” Now, in " order to preserve the natural mechanical action of the horn and sole, the ground surface of the shoe must correspond exactly with the ground surface of the foot; that is to say, the ground surface of the shoe must be leveled cup-fashion; its outer edge being prominent, corresponds to the lower and outer rim of the hoof, while the shoe, being hollow, it resembles the natural concave form of the sole of the foot. No matter what may be the form of the foot, whether it be high or low heeled, contracted at the heels, lengthened or shortened at the toe, or having a concave or convex sole, it matters not; the ground surface of the shoe must be concave. In every other part of the shoe alterations and deviations from any given rule or form are needed, in consequence of the ever varying form of the foot and the condition of the same, both as regards health and disease, but the sole of the foot, being concave, presents a pattern for the ground surface of the shoe, which the smith, with all his skill, cannot improve on; and, if all such craftsmen were to follow this pattern more closely than they do, there would be fewer accidents in falling, and a less number of lame horses. The shoe should be of equal thickness all the way round, _ perfectly level on the top side, and concave on the ground surface. We cannot see the propriety, as given by a standard author, of seating all shoes alike, and of carrying them well back at the heel. Seating appears to be necessary only for the flat-footed horses, or the inside edge of the shoe must be lowered from the possible bearing of the sole, and enough to run the picker around between the shoe and hoof, to remove any gravel or foreign matter that may find a lodg- ment between them. If there is much space between the shoe and sole, it invites accumulation of gravel and other substances injurious to the foot. If the seating is carried well back, and the shoe is wide at the heels, instead of bearing on a level surface as they should, come down upon this inclined plane, it tends to crowd them together. If the shoe is not wide in web, and the foot strong and arched, it may be made per- fectly level on top. At all events, that portion upon which rests the heeis and crust should be level and accurately fitted. The shoe should be continued around toward the heel so far as the crust extends, as | 3 large as the full unrasped hoof, but no part must praject beyond it, ty s 82 THE HORSEMAN’ S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. proportion, and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may be a - being elastic, expands in the same proportion on the rough as on. the really affect the foot. If they are placed well back in the quarters, _ four on a side, as is common, the crust is held as firmly to this vapid ! whole foot. , | quarters in proportion to the growth of‘ the hoof is prevented by the _ eased action of the parts as to cause contraction and navicular dis. ease. Shoes may be securely fastened without causing such mischief, — ‘a - if the foilowing method of nailing is observed: ‘‘ Drive four nails on - - the outside of the foot the same as common, while you drive two or 2 _ three well forward in the toe of the opposite side, which leaves the inside quarter virtually free and independent of the shoe, for the out- Me, side of the foot, being the only part fastened, carries the shoe with it — _ pendently of it, and the foot is left as nearly as possible in a state of — excepting at the extreme of the heel. The expansion | of me heel | ig and growth of the foot requires that the shoe should be long enough | 1 and wide enough at the heels to allow for the natural growth of the | i j foot during the time the shoe is expected to remain on the foot; for, | as the foot grows, the shoe is drawn forward, until it loses its criginal quarter of an inch wider and longer than the extreme bearing of the heels, and the nail holes should be punched coarse and in the centre of the web. In the hind shoe, four in the outside and two or three. | well forward in the inside toe, as found necessary to retain the shoe. | The manner of fastening the shoe is what really affects the foot, _ and what requires the most special attention in shoeing; for the foot, nicely-fitted shoe. It is the number and position of the nails that ing shoe as if in a vice, which utterly prevents the free action neces- sary toits health. Inflammation of the sensitive lamine is produced, — - 3 , | which causes contraction and the consequent ‘derangemieys, at the be | / ro saaes + Ze 2 ee eS eee a a If the free, natural expansion of the foot and the spreading of the nailing of the shoe, irritation of the fleshy substance between the crust and coffin bone will result, and ultimately create 30 much dis- oS ” une Re eres, ~ aa at every expansion, while the inside, being unattached, expands inde- es s 2 . nature so far as its powers of expansion are’ concerned. It may be asked, will this style of nailing hald shoes on the feet of horses of all work? ‘We answer, yes; experience has fully demonstrated that a seven nails will hold the shoe on ordinary feet for any purpose, if the e shoes are properly fitted, for a period of from four to seven weeks, o. , which i is as jones as shoes should be on without, rosacea mi shor |. THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 83 me: ong ane , bah / are made with little clips, to keep them from being shoved back under = & _ the foot, they will require less nailing. If seven nails are found to “ae be necessary, have the three on the inside drove in the space of an | inch anda quarter, well forward in the toe, though in most cases two | will be found sufficient for the purpose. Turn down the clinchers | snugly. Nothing should be done for what might be called ‘‘ fancy.’’ The hoof should never be filed or rasped above the clinches, as the hoof is covered by a peculiar enamel that prevents the tco rapid evap- oration of moisture from the horn, and ought not to be disturbed. The practice of rasping, filing or sandpapering the hoof to make it look nice, only produces mischief, and should never be allowed. _. Horses kept for light driving and irregular work—particularly those | having rather square, upright heels—should be shod on the one-sided | nailing principle, as the feet of such horses are much disposed to | contraction.. So far as observation and experience teaches us, we _ find proper attention to paring down the feet and fastening the shoes so as not to interfere with the free expansion of the hoof (as above) _ will remedy contraction; though attention to growing down the crust, — and the use of shoes that are slightly convex or leveled out, so as to q _ have a tendency to spread the heels when the weight of the body is m< _ thrown upon the foot, and fastening on the principle of the inside = q quarter being left free, is regarded as much better: but the blacksmith | . _ must be a good workman to fashion and fit a shoe in this way prop- Blane: The nails should not be driven higher in the crust than seven. j eighths of an inch, and not so deep as to possibly strike through to 4 the quick. If the foot is light, and shows a thin, delicate crust, the q . nails should be small, and not driven high or deep into the horn. As _ arule, the fewer and smaller the nails used—provided they secure the _ shoe to the foot—the better. Shoes should be re-set as often as once — ae a month, though in some cases they need not require setting so often. It is positively necessary at six, and must not be neglected longer _ than seven or eight weeks, if you would preserve the natural shape _ of the foot. , . e ef Siadeibn eae na © 0g vat J a eh be < a i‘ be = — ~- 7 < aa? Le ss Tat ae a” > . og a ~ 4 7 | For Interfering. 4 et To prevent interfering, know first what part of the foot hits the 7 “opposite ankle. This you can do by wrapping the ankle with a white ~ Se loth, which cover with some kind of coloring matter over where the opp Osi 2 foot hits; then drive the horse until you can discover, by. ‘ ag a FENG gets Te at ee 5 ih dae Satoh 4 , ASR ee Sag BCA eos Ae some of the coloring matter ahiaie what perio of the oa Arlen ' - the ankle. Remove this portion of the crust, and have the shoe set — well under the foot, but carefully fitted, so as to support the foot se safely, by bearing on the bar and heel. The hoof should be pared — lowest on the outside, to turn the ankle, that the other hoof may pass clear. Yet, if the inside sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks, and — the inside is found to be actually lower than the outside. Shoes, to prevent interfering, should be light, of narrow web on the inside, with three nail-holes near the toe. They should be straight at the — ae point where they come in contact with the opposite ankle. By adher- aq ___ ing to this principle strictly of paring the foot and fitting and fasten- s ing the ‘shoe, you will prevent a recurrence of the difficulty. ‘Shoes, me ta to prevent overreaching, should be long, and for the forward feet — : | he heavy, especially at the heels; and for the hind feet light, with ee heavy toes. The hoof should he well pared at the toe. ge | Corns. Corns appear in the angles of the hoof near the heel. they: are | generally caused by the shoe being worn too long, causing the shell if of the hoof to grow over the shoe, which throws the weight upon Cy KS ‘the ans or the angles ieee the bars and crust are not spas beeey 4 eit which would chitin the ong elasticity of the sole at sine eae . must: increase the risk of producing corns, by the liability there is of — . | ; causing the sensitive lamin beneath the edges of the coffin ae to become bruised, owing to the undue pressure it may be subj a aw 4 for want of elasticity in the horny sole. When the sensitive ae is ae thus bruised, the horny substance of which the sole is composed is se- Al | 7 _ ereted i in less quantities, the blood from the ruptured vessels ap Jam | _ with the imperfectly secreted matter, and, as the process is aoe one ss soon makes its sppessanee on the outside. \ To Cure Corns. Out the corn pers down, but not quite to the quick: fit the stioe 's as not to press upon the part; then saturate with fine gum, which found exuding from trees when cut. Fill the pait nicely rith tow; i then put on the shoe, remembering that ire shoe Pic: s “4 i : ‘ t yet = ' he 7 bier Hid in -s ra —S na | a 5 _ ~—“k THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. = = 85 + not to oblige the part to support but very little, if any, of the weight | _ of the horse. We have had horses troubled with corns treated in this sway with very good effect. Horses with corns must be oftener and more carefully shod than those free from them. In shoeing, strive to keep _ the form of the foot natural. Be positive in the enforcement of this. 4 F Tule; and, lastly, have the shoes re-set at least every six or seven weeks. i ea le oe cae a es a ei Sr - sme ph ry ss q Yo Learn a Horse to appear Intelligent. As many of our scholars may wish to know how to teach their horses tricks, we will explain how it may be done. Teaching your horse a few tricks serves greatly to keep an interest in him, and makes him appear fearless, intelligent and affectionate. In teaching , 4 a horse tricks, it is best to give him one or two lessons daily, of half, — Bh or three-quarters of, an hour each. a To Come at the Crack of the Whip, or Word. = __- Put on the Camanche bridle; stand off a few feet, holding the halter _ in your left hand and the whip in the right. Crack the whip,and _ say, “Come here, sir!’” He does not know what this means, but = you show him by pulling on the halter a little, which he will obey by = moving towards you a few steps. This movement you should thank a. him for by feeding him something that he likes from your hand, and by petting and caressing him upon the head and neck; then repeat in the same way, rewarding him as before, and so continue until he will walk up to you every time you crack the whip, or say, ‘‘ Come here, gir,” which he will soon learn to do. Each time he comesto you talk te him kindly, and do not fail to give him his reward of cornor something he likes. You can now take off the halterandtumhim _ loose, and repeat until he fully comprehends that the way to avoid _ the whip is to come to you, which, with the encouragement of re- _ warding him for so doing, will soon inspire him with confidence, and — he will come to you and follow like adog. Be very cautious about _ the use of the whip or harsh language, remembering that perfect, _ cheerful obedience is your object, and that can be secured only by — great patience and gentleness. | | | i 2 : To Make a Bow. | o> - Take a é pin in the oaen hand, between the thumb and foaled Bris ef se ms kon bei Bey r art's ss ve o o 5 Nea ieee ase nba he . ° ; « 5 ft * ‘ ; Pay ey Cc ia ek Me ig +e. at = : ie , irae THE HORSEMAN’ S ILLUSTRATED GuIDE, and stand at his left ‘side, near the pies tell iia to make : a Then prick him very lightly on the small of the back, this 1 : make him move his head; keep pricking him until you get t th co motion of the head; then caress him where hs. have beer Manonlder and eek him on the peas) lightly. as ‘if a fly were biting, __ which, to relieve, he will bring down his head, which you will accept _* as a bow, and will reward by caressing on the side of the neck. Wienw, _——_— repeat until he will bring down his head at the least motion of your — hand towards his breast, or any other Beit) that he wil understand a | _ readily. | | 4 . To Say No... >) ee | q | Stand by your horse’s shoulder; tell him to shake his head, at the same time prick him lightly on the withers or neck, which will cause him to shake his head as if to drive away a fly. You then caress as before, and repeat until he will shake his head at the least indication — e _of your touching him with the pin; youcan train your horse so nicely oe | in this way in a short time as to cause him to make a bow or shake — ot his head by merely turning the hand a little or Oe it bie: - towards him. To Lie Down. - To teach a horse to lie down quickly, you must lay him owe a uF few times with the rope and strap. as heretofore described. — e When down, treat your horse with great attention and kind. ness. After putting him down a few times in this way he will” _ usually lie down in a short time, by taking up one foot and holding Ite in your hand, asking him to lie down; he will soon come down. sl al .f aoe i$ When he will come on his knees by taking his foot in your Haar a) _ stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, ‘‘ Lie down, sir!”’ ‘Then — Bae - make him come down by a motion of the hand, and, ‘finally, bye ; A simply telling him to he down. etree Ta _ In teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle, caress Be ae him: for lying down, and your horse, comprehending what you want, ae finding himsélf -paid for compliance, will soon be as anxious tog _ down for the reward as you aré to have him do so. ‘To Sit He. ‘THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 87 sit up, like a dog, easily. First, cause him to lie down, having on a common bridle, with the reins over his neck; then step behind him and step firmly on his tail with the right foot, holding the reins in the left hand, while with the right bear down firmly on the hips, thus in position, say, ‘‘Get up, sir!” The horse, rising from a recumbent. position, first turns on his belly, throws out his forward feet and raises himself on them, springs forward and raises on his hind feet. Now, standing on his tail firmly, and pulling back upon the reins when he attempts to spring forward and up, will prevent his doing so, and you will hold him sitting up. Hold him firmly a few sece- _onds, talking to him kindly, before_permitting him to rise on his feet. Repeat a few times, when, instead of springing up, he will sit on his haunches a short time, which you are to accept as complying with > your wishes. a _ Always say ‘‘ Sit up, sir!’’ every time, and hold him in the posi- ‘ tion as long as he will bear, by fondling and talking to him kindly, and your horse will soon learn to sit up for you as long as you please. _ But if your horse is heavy and strong, it will be necessary to resort - to other means to hold him down at first. This you do by putting on his neck a common collar, and causing him to lie down; then fasten’ a halter-strap to each hind foot, and bring forward through the co}- _ Jar and draw up close, which will bring the hind feet well forward. feet he will find it impossible to do so, because you hold them for- _ be necessary to resort to such force. ~~ ‘fo Learn a Horse how to Dance. _ five feet from the horse’s head, and with a whalebone whip tap him Then step behind, as before, and when he attempts to rise on his hind g _ ward by those straps. Repeat two or three times, when it will not Aka” Put on the Camanche hridle; take hold of the cord some four or _ ; _ on the shin or ankle until he lifts his foot; then caress him, and do - _ the same with the other; then make him raise first one foot, thenthe = other, and caress; then make him raise them several times, until he _ Pr. music. é To Tomes: to Waltz. a i Wither he has learned to dance, put a surcingle around his chest iets faster the bridle 1 reins to it—the left rein much the tightest—bringing ~ moves his whole body by. the motion of the whip to the time of ae a + >" ats ra sae, ae 7 er wi aces : et eee en Ske ete ee ; ry Bergin! Lorie A oot ee Ve td Pied j ig Wye d ? iy 1 oe ee ty ye ae 5 i. 4 _ foot forward in anticipation of having it pulled up. This isa very Poa» 88 THE HORSEMAN’ 8 ILLUSTRATED ou, ro ” his head well round to the left side. Then make him move o forma when he follows his head, and every time as he Is turning “ee head . jump round quickly until his head comes around to you again, “Then you should caress and encourage him by talking kindly. He will — then be slower to move his head from you, but you musi continue — with the whip every time the horse’s hind parts are to you and his head from you, caressing every few minutes, until he understands to “fe move at the motion of the whip. | Ricks 5 es ss =< ee i a ; To Teach a Horse to Kiss You. — a Teach him first to take an apple, or something that he likes, out of © your hand; when gradually raising the hand nearer the mouth “is each repetition until you require him to take it from your mouth, holding it with your hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you, He will soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth, first to get h his apple, but finally because commanded to do so. Simply repeat until “your horse understands and will do the trick thoroughly. Reet ai = | | . mai ty Sack” To Shake Hands. | chi Be b -— ** . c.. + ee - = vas “oat oe ce poe “Tie a short strap to the forward foot below the fetlock. ‘Stanld:+ directly in front of the horse, monte the end of the strap in your hand, then say, “‘ Shake hands, sir,’’ and immediately pull upon the | __ Strap, which will bring his foot forward, and which you are to accept | as shaking hands, thanking him for it by caressing and rubbing his 4. % | _ Jeg, and so repeat until when you make the demand he will bring the — 2% | easy trick to teach a horse, By a little practice, a horse may be easily i” oe trained to approach, make a bow, shake hands, follow like a dog, tie 7 KA | down, sit up, etc., which makes him appear both polite and intelli- A gent. Never lose courage or confidence in your ability because you om do not bring about good results easily. To accomplish anything of - oe: i a verance. There will be no credit or haere ee Sia) apres eh importance, remember, it requires no ordinary resolution and perse- Li a 2 : pe cee 3 ‘ ~* Soe - Se ay aime SS ae ee ae ee est Rane niet HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 89. f : 4 i | The Trick Dog. 2 eo 5, (See Engraving No. 87.) > Many amusing tricks may be taught to exhibit the wonderful saga- | he _ city of dogs. Perhaps a Spaniel dog is the most tractable of any ; . but a black-and-tan is quite as apt. A Scotch terrier is also quick to - learn. | Re: 5 TO TEACH HIM TO SIT UP. oy . Sit him up in the corner, and with a switch hit him lightly under _ the mouth, snapping your fingers, and say, ‘‘ Sit up.’”’ As he comes down, put him back, and repeat, till he will remain. Then say, — ‘That will do,’’ and call him down, and caress him; repeat this, till , art =. a | . he will do it in any place as well as in the cornerof aroom. He ___will soon learn to do the trick at the word and snap of your fingers. q TO TEACH HIM TO SIT. DOWN. ae _ Press your hand upon his back toward his hind legs, and say, ‘Sit q down,” at the same time tapping the floor with your foot. Taphim under the chin, to keep his head up. He will, after a few lessons, understand that tapping the floor means sit down. eae TO STAND UP. = “Take some food in your hand, and offer him, holding it well up, and say, ‘‘Stand up.” Repeat, till he will stand up réadily, per- — _ mitting him to rest his fore paws on your unoccupied hand, till hecan a stand easily alone. Then take him by the fore feet, lift him up quite hard, and say, ‘“‘Stand up.” Youcan now combine this with the last two tricks, saying, ‘Stand up,” “Sit up,’ “Sit down,” ‘That will do,’ f TO GET INTO A CHAIR. Ss ee am ea 3 | | _ (See Engraving No. 38.) a _ Take your own way to coax him into the chair, using the word 7 chair whenever you cause him to get into it. When he becomes > St familiar with the word, say, ‘‘Go and get into the chair.” After he a _ will do this, teach him to put his paws on the back, by saying, ‘‘ Put - ~ them up,” or saying, ‘‘ Up!’’ assisting him at first. Then teach him f x to put his head down on his paws, by placing it there and repeating che ~— ~~ bs oe word down, caressing him each time he complies. To hate him — ers : .— a , ya See ee ay? i Ws , “—: ASS — a ok aasieta iis iG eine | THE HORSEMAN’ 8 ILLUSTRATED a Bae hold his. head up, tap him aries the mouth, ang say, ‘ Uy bering to say ‘ That will do, ” when you are pet with | You may teach him to jump over the chair, Ric’ amis. him to do so, saying, “Jump.” . \ TO MAKE HIM GO LAME. Tap him with a little rod on the hind foot, saying, Lae he fie - coax him along, and if he puts his foot down, hit him quite smartly ; on the foot, making him keep it up, till he will go lame at the word, -and a motion of the rod. When you seat him in the chair, if he goes to jump down, stop him; teaching him to wait for the word ho. _ As he comes down with his fore feet on the floor, steady him by she. word, and teach him to stop with his hind legs up in the chair; bay ae _ the way around as far as he can go, and then back again; if this is a done on a stool, he can thus be taught to go all the way around, ai 1d 5 is then ready to run on his forward legs. Do this as often as the chair trick is performed, saying “‘ Around;’’ after a while take him > \ i by the tail and lift.him up, and switching his hind legs lightly, walk — him around, saying, ‘“‘Around.”” He will soon learn to lift up his hind legs at the motion of the whip, and the words, “Go round,’ a and will Sane a circle, walking on his forward legs. ie TO SIT ON A STOOL, Birk AB now easy to teach him to stt down on a low stool. ed ma y c then teach, sie to take. a seat on the stool, bi sire) him ‘—- , TO TEACH HIM TO FIND THINGS. Take something with which he is accustomed to play; call him to you, and blindfold him, throw the article a short distance a 4 te you; if the dog has good scent, tell him you have lost; then rem ove _ the blindfold, and he will search and find it. Repeat this, thre wii it farther each time, till you can throw anything you have he a - your hand at a distance, you looking in the direction, s ying, Bet have lost ;” he will search till he finds it. If the dog ha s not good - scent, teach him to look down at the word faa, a y at the oS word Me “THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 93 TO TEACH HIM TO CREEP. 3 First make him lie down on all fours: then get upon your knees, ___ take your dog’s fore paws in your hands, and rest the back of your a hands on the floor; draw your hands, first one and then the other, a _ toward you, saying, ‘‘ Creep, creep, sir.’’ If he eae to getup, ig hold his fore legs fast to the floor, saying, ‘‘ Careful, sir.’ As soon as — ; he stops struggling, begin again. This is one of the easiest tricks for __ a dog to learn, and can be taught him in a very short time. OR a BY ie: TO BE A DEAD DOG. Take your dog by the fore shoulders, say to him ‘‘ Be ee, ata ? the same time lay him down on his side. He will at first struggle a ee get up, but hold him fast, and when he is quiet, take your hands from him. Work slowly and carefully. If he attempts to get up, hold ‘f his head to the floor again. Ina short time he wi!l lie down upon his side at the word ‘‘ Dead.” When you wish him to get up, change your voice, and speak quickly, but not harshly, ‘‘That will do, sir,” or a Dinner is ready,” or “‘ Beefsteak,’’ or any word you wish, and after _he has thoroughly learned the word he will not get up until you~ 4 we speak it, / We > TO BALANCE ON THE BACK OF A CHAIR. Take a common bar-room chair—one with wide arms is best; coax Rhee dog up into it; take his fore paws and place them on the arm of © the chair; pat and caress him as you proceed. Now get aatothiert - chair, and place it about a foot from the first; stand on the outside of | the chair, and coax him to come to you. They sometimes will jump ~~ _ over the arm; if they do, put them back again and speak outsharply, = “Careful.” Try him again. He then will probably put all his feet 2 on the arm of the chair. If he does, take the second chair away, 4 and step in front of him as quickly as possible; put your hand under >. his chin and steady him; gradually take your hand away, and ads fi 7 - and caress him, If you have a small piece of meat to give him, so. _ much the better; but never caress nor feed him unless he does right. Bee, , Bie hah TEACH HIM TO WALTZ. ie “at wi ' a p above his head. If t he jumps for it, take it out of his way, and _ give him a slight cuff on the ear. Now say to him," ee up. om he obeys you, give him a small piece. Then hold another piece ' er his nose, and carry it around over his head, saying, ‘‘ Waltz.” | 6 aa turns after it, give it to him. Try him so for several times; then make him turn two or three times before you reward him. Work 4 i this way for a short time, and he will waltz for you at the word, e without any reward. co ee a> Wont” P y. " ley of * 6S at ET OTE ee Diseases of the Dog. ie ADMINISTERING MEDICINE.—We will commence fae work by” 4 ie giving directions how to administer medicine. If your dog is not a “a large, you can manage him by yourself. Invert a bucket and set on ~- q ‘a it; set the dog down on his haunches, between your legs, holding him 4] with your knees; tie a cloth around his neck; this, falling over his ; fore paws is prone against his ribs by your knees; his fore legs, 74 this dodge, are ‘‘hors de combat.” With the finger and thumb (ae one hand force open the jaws, elevating his head at the same time with the same hand. If a bolus, with the other hand pass it over the — roots of his tongue, and give it a sharp poke downward; close the | mouth, still holding up the head till you see it swallowed, Tf a a] draught, give a mouthful, close the mouth, hold up the head, and. a stop the nostrils. Repeat this if the draught is too large to be taken a at once. If the dog is very large you must have an assistant, else. iu a his struggles he will upset you and the medicine too. eee a Puysic.—In giving a dog physic, be sure to keep him warm and dry, especially if you use calomel or mercurial preparations. Muay ws 4 ~ remove him from the kennel and put him into a hospital apart f from Far the rest, to prevent infection, as well as to insure the poor brute 5 quietness. Study the appearance of. the eyes, feet, nose, extremities, a pulse, etc. To Mazz a Brrcu INCLINED TO CoPULATE. —Seven uae a Bis ‘of cantharides twice a day till effect is ‘produced; about six i days Bees _ probably. MANGE. Caused by dirty kennels, neglect, want of not improper, food. ‘ Cure—one ounce salts, if dog of moderate ‘size; r 5m rut oa saatbe third day, well into the skin, of the tollewing mixture: THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. ok (tanner’s will do), one quart; spirits turpentine, one large wine-glass full; sulphur, sufficient to make a thin paste; mix well; let it stay on the animal two weeks, then wash well with castile soap and warm water. Worms.—Cowhage, one-half drachm; tin filings (very fine), four drachms; make into four or six balls, according to size of dog; one daily, and a few hours afterwards, a purge of salts or aloes. Another remedy—powdcred glass, as much as will lie on a quarter of a dollar, mixed with Idrd. Repeat once or twice alternate days; finish off with one or two drachms of socotrine aloes rolled up in tissue paper. To Make 4 Doc Frye mw His Coat.—A table-spoonful of tar and oatmeal; make bolus. To Dxsrroy Lice.—Sonietimes the recipe for fleas will prove _ efficacious, but not always. A small quantity of mercurial] oint- ment, reduced by adding hog’s lard to it, say an equal quantity, rubbed along the back never fails; but the greatest care must be taken to keep the animal warm and dry. DISTEMPER. —Distemper is caused by low keep, neglect, and change _ of atmosphere. Symptoms of: the disease are as follows: Loss of _ spirit, activity and appetite, drowsiness, duiness of the eyes, lying at _ length with nose to the ground, coldness cf extremities, legs, ears are several receipts for this, the worst of all diseases. One is better _ and lips, heat in head and body, running at the nose and eyes, accom- panied by sneezing, emaciation and weakness, dragging of hind quarters, flanks drawn in, diarrhoea, and sometimes vomiting. There than another, according to the various stages. The first, if taken at an early stage, seldom fails; half an ounce of salts in warm water, when first taken ill; thirty-six hours afterwards, ten grains compound powder of ipecacuanha in warm water. If in two days he is not _ better, take sixteen grains antimonial powder, made into four boluses, _ one night and morning for two days. If nv improvement is visible, | _ continue these pills, unless diarrhaa comes on, in which case you - must use the ipecacuanha day, about with the pills. If the animal qi is much weakened by this, give him one teaspoonful Huxam’s _ tincture of bark three times a day. James’ powder is almost a cer- _ tain remedy—dose, four grains. In case of fits coming on, destroy — the epee A gp pags db gtlon Saag rt If this disease is afore ee Sie ea a % “ fi ‘ ’ 44 a Ae ve i: a a is er sp a Foe ~* a S * 4 ~ ey * y ; ; 96 y » | < A by : taken in its early stages and attended to, and ee ‘aes kent wa _ there is not much danger, otherwise it is very fatal. “ : Biuious Fever is caused by want of exercise and bi high: foe’ ing. Calomel, six or eight grains, or in an obstinate case, turpeth _ | as it mineral or yellow sa i six to twelve rae: in a bolus. : os ¥ ce he ; oe ‘pulse pakicd quickened ; aii up the i into a pee and — i pressing the belly on it; desire to swallow stones, coal, or any cold substance not voidable; inclination to hide away. It is very danger- - ous, and requires active treatment. Bleed most freely until the dog | _ faints away; clap a blister on the pit of the stomach. Give aloes — . fifteen grains, opium half.a grain; repeat dose three times a day. __ Bleed after twelve hours if the pulse rises again, and continue dates and bleeding till either the dog or inflammation gives in. No half — measures will do in this case. If you get the upper hand there is no a trouble; if not it is fatal. Feed low, and attend carefully © babii relapse. . - SraceERs AND Frrs.—This generally happens in warm weksin a _ Throw water on them if convenient; if not, bleed in the neck, if you es have lancets; if not, slit the ears with your knife. (you can cause - them to adhere together again), or run your knife across two. or three _ bars next the teeth. Bitches coming off heat are more subject to this om ep dogs in good health. © | : hee <5 ‘3 bg SF ia _ Buepine.—You Ri readily bleed a cakes in the 6 Saal vein, a og stick him too Acenty, ‘Te the animal rejoices in a siete coat, — 4 rae may be necessary to shave away the hair. From one to eight oun ‘ Sas : _ are the quantities; use your own judgment. RE aa CANKER IN THE Ear. —Wash well with s: vap-and warm eee the ear with finely powdered charcoal or powdered borax. Clean ‘ daily with sponge on stick and warm water, and repeat the dus «ti it heals. Another peniedy Oak bark, one now chopped pes ef ue! . . 4 4 Ry f \ . a 3 - THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. "OTe cause it to get well into the cavities. This is one of the best receipts in this book. | | Ae EXTERNAL CANKER OF THE EAar.—Butter of sustihahiy diluted in a" * snilk to the thickness of cream, will cure it; or red precipitate, half FS an ounce with two ounces of hog’s lard, mixed well. ie _. For a Srram.—Use Bertine’s liniment, or one ounce of turpen- 2 tine, half pint old beer, half pint brine, bathe the part and ni iit or . a sal ammonia, one ounce, vinegar, one pint. 3 j uti : i _ BrvIses on STRAINS OF Lone Stanpind.—Gall and opodeldoc are : excellent; shaved camphor, two ounces; spirits of wine, three quar- ters of a pint; shake well, and cork close, placing it near the fire until the camphor dissolves; then add a bullock’s gall; shake well = together; apply, rubbing it well into the part affected until it lathers. — hy - Doe Porsonep.—Give a tea-cup full of castor oil. After he has — ae - yomited well, continue to pour olive oil down his throat and ree his "4 belly. . FLEas.—Scotch snuff steeped in gin is infallible; but must be used ae with great care, and not above a tea-spoonful of snuff to apintof = ca the cure, if overdone, is a deadly poison. uh ae Torn Ears. —Laudanum and brandy, equal parts, mix well; apply — - alternately with sweet oil. SWELLED TEATS. —Make pomade of camphorated spirit of brandy — and goose grease; apply two to three times daily. | 3 - To Extract Tyorns.—Cobbler’s wax bound on the aap or - Black pitch plaster or a poultice are equally good. _FiuMs oVER THE Eves. —Blue-stone or lunar caustic, eight grains) - spring water, one ounce. Wash the eyes with it, letting a little pass ee “a Me in. Repeat this daily, and you will soon cure it. ot em . -Fums Cause sy Tuorn Wovunps.—Rest the dog till perfectly ry. Rc caiaa over, washing with rose water. If much inflammation, bleed ; and foment with hot water, with a few drops of laudanum in it— : : _ about forty drops of laudanum to one ounce of water; or two grains) | i a opium to one ounce of water—one as good as the other. Then— : ply four or five times a day the following wash: Super-acetate of: ~ pebait hasan TOSe water six ounces, | Cy: >) a 98 ‘THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED ove, TR 3 es) ae <) 2 Q i, I | ae He ee a S CS ag =) b=) = = ap ie: 4 fe. ‘ia: 4 a pe vinegar; after, apply tincture of myrrh. fete sweet. “oil shi © d goes out, If his feet are sore, wash in buttermilk until nee r, the i “ be ye ie Oo ) HK apply brine and vinegar equal parts. ~ vy aa Wounps.—Poultice for a day or two, then apply Friar’ : Balsam, covering up the place. Var be eae | For A Green Wounp.—Hog’s inva: turpentine and beeswax equal parts; verdigris one-fourth part. Simmer over a slow fire till they a are well mixed and apply. y % Hast | 1) Sa ade Wee PuRGATIVE Mrpictngs.—Salts, one ounce, calomel, five grains; | or socotrine aloes, two drachms for a moderate- sized dog. FAY eA ee | eae ? a h a on . os To Repuce tHe Tre A Brrow 1s In Hwat.—Give her a little nitre in water, and a dose of calomel four grains or thereabouts, followed by salts or aloes. We FEED FoR GREYHOUNDS IN TRAINING.—- Wheat flour and oat lak | old, equal parts. Liquorice, anise-seed and white of eggs, Make ? | > into a paste; make loaves, bake them; break into a very rich broth. As, Brre or SNakg.—Olive oil well rubbed in betoe the a anda copious drench of it also. a St : iJ | \ . : ; i i . PA te “mi Diseases of the Horse. INFLAMMATION, From inflame, I burn, is one of the most common foruik: of ae a ease presented to the veterinary surgeon, and regarding which onde | erroneous opinions have prevailed, in consequence of which much _ injury and often serious consequences have resulted. Sound pa ic Q practice must be based upon sound medical principles. — . understanding of the term inflammation will assist us very ae aly in understanding the pathology of diseases .n their most complic ut forms. A few years since every form of disease occurring — domestic animals was revarded and treated as some form of. i mation; purging and bleeding were the order of the | Ges Ut different the practice of the present time. tae eet ~The manner in which Beams at it been Ww ‘ition. \ te Aj. us Boer hat “THE YORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 99 made it a subject perfectly bewildering to the general reader, and, from its being associated with everything in actual practice, no idea of a very definite kind with regard to it will for a long time occur to his mind. With 2 view to overcome this difficulty, we will give the _ most simple definition of the term inflammation: ‘‘ It is an unnatu- _ ral or perverted action of and in the capillary blood vessels of a ~ part; attended with redness, throbbing, swelling, pain, heat and dis- . order of function, with change in both its fluid and solid constituents, as well as with more or less general disturbance of the system.” The extent to which structures in a state of inflammation will swell, varies considerably, depending upon the vital and physical characters of the _ tissue involved. - Muscular tissue becomes very much swollen, while - on the other hand, horny and cartilaginous tissues swell but little, in consequence of their low state of vitality. It must be remem- bered that it requires an assemblage of the above conditions to con- stitute inflammation. Swelling, pain, heat or redness alone do not constitute that condition, as either may occur from causes independ- ent of any inflammatory action whatever. We now feel prepared to proceed with our remarks upon the various diseases with which the horse is afflicted, with a better under- standing regarding the interest of our readers than we would have done had we passed this subject by unnoticed. - CaPILLARIES.—The blood is the pabulum from whence is elabo- rated the entire organism, as well as the source from whence are derived all the various secretions and excretions of the system; but, in order that these purposes may be accomplished, it is necessary for _ the fluid in question to be circulated through, or its materials brought _ in contact with ‘every tissue requiring fresh nutrition, as well as _ through the various secretory and excretory organs. To effectually ; gccomplish this, we find a class of structures set apart and admirably _ adapted in every way to fulfill the purposes required. The first of _ these is the heart itself; next comes the large blood conduits, the arte- ries, which spring from the former, as the tree springs from the earth; 2 while the arteries again terminate in a series of vessels of wonderful _ minuteness, just asthe boughs of a tree terminate in the twigs. _ These minute vessels are denominated capillaries. These capillaries ramify, and are placed in the most intimate relation with every tissue a throughout the body within whose substance reproduction and decay oo 2 in rervetael aperations, 48 me as with those ar whose duty ‘ oa Bes x 3 “4 a bal ¢ : — SL eeS™ > a , ‘ 4 4 } ; Py a P ay % ‘ > aS ’ - a - ‘2 i 4 ; , > ‘ é ’ so ae 2 Ad. } oy é a a, ee eS Rb Kwa ; + s £6 ’ ‘wal . ‘ 2 “a 2 K , 1 ok y bs é 4 - % to $e ‘a & ™svC art be . i] m ‘ 4 o at ‘ r - to furnish the reader with a clear conception of the matter in hand, few days the animal will feed as usual. 100 THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. it is to furnish or separate the secretions and excretions already re- 4 ferred to. Each tissue selects from the common pabulum—the blood --—thus sent to it, the peculiar principle it requires to support its own life and integrity. The usual termina#ions of inflammation are resolution, mortifica- tion, suppuration, ulceration, hemorrhage, effusion, hepatization, and ossification. By resolution is meant the state of the tissues after their recovery from the effects of inflammation. da MORTIFICATION is loss of vitality, or death of the tissues involved. alta NS a tial Raab tp ie Xs" SupruratTion.—A collection of purulent matter, which receives the name of abscess. Uxnceration.—A purulent solution of continuity of the soft Po arising from loss of substance. HEMORRHAGE occurs as a direct or indirect consequence of inflam- mation, from ulceration penetrating through the coats of an artery. Errusion.—An exudation of serum, watery accumulations, as in dropsy. HEPATIZATION.—Conversion of a texture into a substance like liver. | i i OssIFICATION.—Formation of bone—change of soft structures into — bony ones. The account we give is necessarily brief; but we trust it is sufficient ~ ~ AA Ney le tet SSet and in turn enable him to clearly comprehend that which is to follow. DISEASES OF THE MOUTH —LAMPASS, | 53 All young animals, during the period of dentition, have a fullness : or swelling of the gums and bars, or roof of the mouth. In many colts it occasions but little or no inconvenience, while in others the — pain is so great as to interfere with their feeding. When this condi- — hy . tion exists, do not resort to the barbarous practice of burning witha — red-hot iron, but act humanely. Lance the bars with your pocket- — knife, if you have nothing better, as your family physician would # lance the gums of your child under similar circumstances, andi ina THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 101 | BAGS, OR WASHERS. . - These are soft, puffy swellings of the lining membrane of the mouth, Ey caused by the bit bruising the parts in reining. If inconvenient to - _ the animal, they may be removed by cutting off a portion of the : 2 ‘f -. swollen parts with a pair of scissors or a knife, after which applya ___ little alum-water, or equal parts of tincture of myrrh and water, to te bas é re . the wound, two or three times a day. ; * 2 | . SORE MOUTH. f: cfs c ie This occurs from the same causes, and is situated usually at the = _ angles of the mouth. Equal parts of tincture of myrrh, tincture of * aloes and water, is the best application we can make. it ae UNEVEN TEETH. . Og _ The molar teeth of the horse very frequently become sharp and Ret _ irregular, interfering with mastication to such an extent as to cause ee _ the digestive organs to become impaired, giving rise to an unhealthy y _ Condition of the system. At times the insides of the checks become — ce lacerated by their sharp edges, causing them to become tumid and, — é ee _ sore. These cases can only be remedied by the use of the horse-rasp, an instrument made for the purpose. | WOLF TEETH. : | | | __- These are two small teeth which make their appearance immediately = os in front of the upper molar teeth in all colts at some period from the — ot a ‘ first to the fifth year. It is supposed by very many horsemen that { ce As _— . A) _ they exert an evil influence over the eyes of the horse. My expe- | _ rience does not prove the fact, and I cannot reconcile my mind to — _ believe that they, natural teeth, should be placed in the mouths of all colts if they were injurious to the eyes or any other organ of the a body. If you wish them removed, the best plan is to extract them © _ with a pair of dentist’s forceps. In knocking them out, the roots are nae i _ frequently left behind, and of course your object is not accomplished. — ff $3 ). PARR eS. 1 _ CARIES OF THE TEETH. ~ | YS chal ae pe Pe Tage ea has é _ Caries, or decay of the teeth of horses, is a disease of frequent © te x —* | ee pees", ee Sy Po alto currence. The silence of veterinary writers upon the subject has ie | easee hse ga * meri x oy: vi os a ' we 7 ne oe hee caused it to be overlooked ae those having the care of er useful Pye ; animal, and the symptoms in consequence have, been confounded - SYMPTOMS. —Occasionally we have a fetid breath, fetid dischatear: from one nostril, a wheezing in the head, food improperly masticated — passing away undigested, quidding, drowsing, hide-bound, staring coat, tucked-up belly, tossing the head, stopping short on the road, ‘shaking his head and starting on again, and at times becoming almost — | unmanageable. These symptoms do not all occur in the same animal — ua —one appearing drowsy, requiring the whip to urge him on, while another, at times, is wild and frantic with pain, taking the bit, and — becoming treublesome to manage, occasionally running away. Some a of those symptoms occur in other diseases; but we should not over- — look the teeth in our examination when any of the above symptoms — with those of other diseases. — ° Tea oA | two drachms of extract. of belladonna; and give in the feed, three times a day, one of the following powders: Gentian root, saltpetre — 4 and anise seed, of each one ounce—sulphate of quinine, one drachm ; mix and divide into eight powders; or, powdered cinchonia and pow- — } dered quassia, of each, two ounces; powdered anise seed, one ounce; | mix and divide into four powders. The throat should be bathed in . Inustard and vinegar, or with linseed oil, three ounces, spirits of hartshorn one ounce, mixed together. No hay or corn should be — _ given, but scalded oats and wheat bran, with linseed tea or oatmeal gruel, should constitute the diet; a few carrots would be VORy, good, , and, above all, good nursing is very desirable. der, causing much stiffness, which may be satte mistaken for that | 4 t eS lier Az 4 } aga ae y { ‘ eh ae BRONCHITIS. This is an inflammation of the bronchial tubes, as its name implies, the air tubes of the lungs. It is usually preceded by a shivering fit, : Om the mouth i is hot and full of saliva, the throat is sore, and, if pressed upon, excites a painful cough, discharge from the nose, appetite lost, Saga quick, and respiration labored, eyelids and nostrils reddened aps on applying the ear to the side, a gurgling sound is heard. ‘sid eam - 'TREATMENT.—Give the following ball in the early stage of the dis- i. ease: Nitrate of potassa, pulverized digitalis and tartrate of antimony, — tee of each half a drachm, molasses sufficient to make the ball. If the — ) - fever is not broken in twelve hours, repeat the ball. .Assoonasthe _ desired object is obtained, give one of the following powders twice a day, in a sloppy mass: nitrate of potassa, one and a half ounces nitrate of soda, six ounces; divide into six powders; or give the fol | ube Extract of belladonna, one drachm; spirits of. nitre, oe ¥ . | ounce; pohition of acetate of ammonia, four ounces, in half a bai | ‘ordinary fl y blister, Snead thin with turpentine, is very goo, oO 7 tard ised with 3 Wea, te of water and spirits of cae | -——=—=—sPHE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 105 a Either of the above, when used, should be well rubbed in with the hand. © 4 eS: NASAL GLEET. e ‘This is a chronic discharge, from one or both nostrils, of a whitish. _ muco-purulent matter, the result usually of neglected catarrh. The + general health of the animal does not seem to suffer; he looks well, q a feeds well, and works well; yet we have this discharge, which is. ' caused by weakness in the secretory vessels of the lining membrane z of the nose. The successful treatment in all cases where this disor- __ der has existed has been on the tonic principle; bleeding and purging are positively injurious. Give one of the following powders night 3 _ and morning: Sesqui-chloride of iron, two ounces; powdered cinna- "mon, one ounce; mix and divide into four powders; or carbonate of iron, pulverized gentian and pulverized quassia, of each one ounce; _ divide into four powders; or nux vomica pulverized, one-half ounce, - linseed meal, two ounces; divide into eight powders. Another good _ preparation is muriate of barytes, one-half ounce; linseed — one’ _ ounce; divide into eight powders. : = } ? PNEUMONIA. This disease is known to horsemen as Jung fever. It is either in- flammatory or congestive, arising from various causes—as high feed- : ing, badly-ventilated stables, violent exercise, or sudden changes — py ta al _ from heat to cold. In the congestive stage there is no pulse to be _ sweats bedew the body, the respiration is labored, eyes wild in their _ expression, legs cold, the animal appears dull and stupid, and is with % “ova made to move; he does not lie down. In these cases medi- _ eines are not required; in fact they often do more injury than good; x _ the free and speedy use of the lancet is our only hope, and a pure _ found, and, on applying the ear to the side, no sound is heard; cold — air is of the greatest importance. A pail of cold water should be F placed before the animal, but no food should be given until the ani- ; mal is relieved, and then only mashes of wheat bran. Under this __ treatment he will speedily recover, or inflammation of the lungs will beestablished. The pulse now becomes quick, the mouth hot, legs xq cold, head hanging in or under the manger, appetite lost; on apply- & ing the ear to the side, a crepitating or crackling sound is heard tf aa aeok Si treatment dineke oe be prompt and tab aia?; sic igh i ee + a. A 106 ‘THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED. Hees. -plisters to the sides, such as previously spoken of, ‘must be ‘used, sat ao, _ give internally two ounces of spirits of nitre in half a pint of water; - follow this in two hours with ten drops of tincture of aconite in water, to be given every six hours until relief is obtained; or give eh ye instead one of the following powders: Tartrate of antimony, pulver- se _ ized digitalis, of each, one drachm; nitrate of potassa, one ounce; __ mix and divide into eight powders; give one every four hours upon the tongue. Injections of soap and water are very useful in these __ eases. The legs should be hand-rubbed, and stimulated with mustard or cayenne pepper, and then wrapped in woolen bandages; a pure eae atmosphere and good nursing are very necessary. | 2 Peepatt Racal PLEURISY. ? This is an inflammation of the lining membrane of the chest and — covering of the lungs. The symptoms are uneasiness, pawing, Jooke: a ing at the sides, pulse quick, pain, or pressure over the ribs, body ae ; hot, lying down, but rising quickly. The same treatment asin - inflammation of the lungs is called for; but, under no circumstances, __ | - ghould bleeding be resorted to. These cases are very apt totermi- _ nate in hydrothorax, or ie | oh Regier | DROPSY OF THE CHEST. _ Symptoms—Breathing short and quick, legs straggling, pulse _ small and quick; breast, belly, and sheath swell, and leave the mark of the finger when pressed upon; the animal stands until he dies. — > mel The treatment of this disease, as a general thing, is not very satisfac- : tory. The iodide of potassa, in half-drachm doses, three times a Ge _ day, has proved the most useful medicine in such cases, in connection =—— 2 with setons in the breast and sides. f ee Li | ~~. BROKEN WIND, OR HEAVES. fae ae “This disease is well known to horsemen; so we will content our a | a es, merely by giving the most successful remedies, which, for : : | the most part, are only palliative. Divide half an ounce of pul- ee | % ~ -verized digitalis in twenty parts, and give one part night and morning © oe | in the feed, until gone; this will usually allay all signs of the disease 3 i in two weeks. Or, take assafetida, two drachms; cam hor, 0 a Bs: ‘drachm; mix and give it ee. other nee for a weak! Brae e oh fe / -—~—~—*~S PE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. = 107 ae INF].AMMATION OF THE BOWELS. a: « _This disease may appear suddenly, or it may be slow in coming on. i 4 _ The symptoms resemble those of colic, with whicl disease it is often “A -- confounded. The pulse is our certain guide in determining the char- _ ‘d a - acter of the disease ; when that is full and natural, or nearly so there_ & ae ig no inflammation; if full, strong and quick, there is inflammation; other symptoms corresponding, there is no difficulty in determining _ the case. In colic the symptoms of pain are intermittent; in inflam- mation of the bowels there are no intermissions. Other symptoms which are present in both diseases are pawing, kicking the belly, rolling and tumbling about, sweating, haggard expression of counte- - nanee looking at his sides, etc.; in colic the legs usually are warm; - __ in inflammation of the bowels they are cold. TREATMENT.—Bleed freely from the neck-vein, and give ten drops tincture of aconite every three hours; apply blankets saturated with hot water to the entire body, and keep it up for two hours; then remove the wet ones and replace them with dry ones, well-secured with a body girth. Injections of tobacco smoke are very useful in | - these cases, when not convenient, soap and water will answer the ~ purpose. No food of any kind should be given for at least forty: af eight hours. DIARRHGA, a The cause 2 of this disease is exposure to cold, over-exertion, change of water, over-doses of cathartic medicine, ete. 4 TREATMENT.—Give one of the following powders every six hours — _. untilthe bowels are checked; powdered opium, one drachm; pow- - dered catechu, two drachms; prepared chalk, one ounce; mix and — f divide into four powders. . : e A? COLIC. 3 . This disease—known also as gripes, cramp and fret—is. either ee % spasmodic or flatulent. Spasmodic colic isa spasmodic contraction —__ of the muscular coats of the intestines, causing griping pains, etc. _ (see inflammation of bowels). Flatulent colic is an accumulation offs oi bs _ gas in the stomach and intestines, generated by fernientation in the 3 a _ stomach, causing swelling of the abdomen, and sometimes rept of eS the eres: ay en, oh “ A pe., , 108 . THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. TREATMENT,— For spasmodic colic, give one ounce tincture opium and one ounce of sulphuric ether in halt a pint of water’. this should ‘be repeated in half an hour if relief is not obtained. Or, give the following: tincture of opium, one ounce; aromatic spirits of ammonia, half an ounce; extract of belladonna, one drachm; water, one pint; mix. In flatulent colic give chlorate of potash, one half ounce; sulphuric ether, one-half ounce; tincture of aloes, three ounces; water, ohe pint; mix and drench. “WORMS. | Thousands of animals die annually from the ravages of these pests without the true cause being suspected; especially is this the case in the young of the mare, cow, sheep and pig. Many varieties of these parasites belong to our domestic animals which have not been mentioned by veterina)y writers; they are found in every tissue of the body, even in the blood. The symptoms of worms have been but very imperfectly described by writers upon the subject. In an experience of many years I have observed the, following symptoms, but not all in the same animal. Each variety of worm has its characteristic symptoms, aaniely: in bots, we rarely have loss of condition, but when the bots become.troublesome, colicky pains, gasping, quickened respiration, staring or haggard expression of the eye, with a strong tendency to inflammation of the bowels, will be observed, Bots are rarely troublesome, except when passing away in- their regular *manner, which occurs from May to August in each year. In most other varieties of worms the symptoms are debility, feebleness, sluggish movements, emaciation, staring coat, hide-bound, and skin covered with scurvy blotches, rigidity of loins, small and feeble but slightly accelerated pulse, respiration slow, tucked-up belly, a peculiar pallid appearance of the lining of the lips (a certain judication), irregular, capricious, but persistent, appetite, badly digested feeces, agitation of heart and tail; and where the fundament | va worms exist.a whitish or yellowish-white substance will be found about the fundament, i:.dicated also by rubbing the tail. The treatment for worms has been attended with much uncertainty _ ‘heretofore, and is to the present day, with practitioners generally. — Those on which most dependence has been placed are: calomel, one half drachm; tartrate of antimony, one half drachm; linseed meal, one half ounce; mix and give at night. Or, iron filings, two ” oi, ek eS Jo hdd dh AY ee ny oe pl. a On ele 6 ee oe PAA TAOS cach rors ey tr Ne, Oe BL ty Monee ; PTA ER Mees ke ay 4 ; A re ee | Mie ot i ae a : re - ae | i+.~ he ay al * Le 7 THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. — 109 _ drachms; common salt, one-half ounce; powdered savin, one drachm ; A linseed meal-one-haif ounce; mix and give every night for a week. | _ Or, assafcetida, two drachms; calomel, one and a half drachms; savin, ey one and a half drachms; oil male fern, thirty drops; linseed meal, -_ two drachms; mix with molasses and give at night. Orcalomel, one » drachm; powdered wormwood, one ounce; honey sufficient to make. a the ball; give atnight. Follow either of the above with the following pall: barbadoes aloes one ounce; pulverized gentian, two drachms; g pulverized ginger, one drachm; water sufficient to make tlie ball. ee: Another remedy, highly recommended, is the following: Barbadoes a _ aloes;#8ix drachms;. male fern, four ounces; spirits turpentine, two ounces; mix and divide into six balls; give one three times a day. , Cg Ps, . RETENTION OF URINE. 4 This is known by frequent but unsuccessful efforts to stale. In "some animals it arises from a dislike to spatter their legs in voiding _ the water; hence a horse will frequently retain it in the bladder until the litter is shaken up under him, when he will at once relieve him- self. When the result is spasm of the neck of the bladder, an instrument is used called a catheter, made expressly for the purpose; — ih) ie this is passed up the urinary passage to the biadder, when the water 4% % tf will flow freely and give instant relief. a PROFUSE STALING. t 4 _ The causes of this disease are, the improper use of diuretic - medicines, as saltpetre, rosin, etc. Unwholesome food will some- __ _ times produce it. Treatment: Give one of the following ballsevery _ night—powdered opium, one-half ounce; powdered kino, one ounce; 7 _ prepared chalk, one ounce; mix with molasses and make six balls. ee oe ss STONES IN THE BLADDER. ae % _. These may exist a long time in the bladder before any symptoms Bes. a arise indicating their presence. The first symptoms of stone are, frequent efforts to urinate, voiding small quantities, usually of a — e a thick whitish color; as the stones increase in size, the symptoms os a become more aggravated, colicky pains are indicated, rendering it = _ Aficult to distinguish the difference: the animal paws, kicks at his ; Figees es down, rolls, and gets up quickly: [In some cases, these _ 110 two drachms, in a pail of water once a day. When this a a isa hicd smooth tumor, but soon becomes soft, and breaks, dis. ia charging quantities of pus. Treatment: poultice the foot for several _ away all loose portions, but no more, and inject with a syringe, advantage. Before using the wash, have the foot well cleaned with ig its cleft or division, occasionally causing lameness. The treated RAS simple and effective: Wash the feet well with soap and water, and sprinkle a small quantity of pulverized sulphate of copper in the 2 _. cleft, and secure it by pressing a little raw cotton down upon it: in sucha manner as to keep out the dirt. In two or three days repeat it necessary. It rarely requires.a second dressing. > on eae - troublesome to manage. ae is a continuation of the thrush pete. 4 - separation between them. Treatment: Cut away all the horn whic 1 has been separated from the soft structures of the foot, and apply : over a slow fire, and add sulphuric acid very siowly until ebt lhiti ceases; or ‘use collcdion, half an ounce; castor oil, one ounce; m , and apply to the paris. The foot must be noes from dirt by THE HORSEMAN i TLLUSTRATED: G meng oer abe! > By hr ae feo E Ray: La - Sa eR TRI RS A ee EE ye saepaceioke are dissolved by the. ‘idininiapatn of. ‘muria apa for ie removal of the stone is the only ei This surgeon. QUITTER. ‘This is a formation of puss between the hoof and the soft structntes within; a sore at the coronet or upper part of the foot, which at first iS days with flax-seed meal. ' As soon as the hoof becomes soft, cut either of the following, once a day: Chloride of zinc, two drachms, dissolved in one pint of water; or sulphate of zinc, one and a half drachms; dissolved in one pint of water; or nitrate of silver, two | drachms, in a pint of water; or glycerine may be used with castile soap and water. ..26 4 te eae * at te THRUSH. | San ee This is a disease of the frog, causing a discharge of see: frank Cc ANKER. j te Os; y: the horny frog and the internal structures of the foot, ca causing: the following ointment: Take equal parts of pine tar and lard, _ banda age or aleathern hoot. = =~ Le ear ey Rs -_ * ss ‘THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 111 i SCRATCHES. _ This disease is well known to all horsemen. Treatment: Wash the parts‘well with castile soap and water, and when dry apply once “a day the collodion and castor oil, recommended in canker; or use a - saturated solution of the bichloride of mercury once a week, but not . oftener, or niischief may arise in consequence of a too free use. GRE. ASE HEELS, This isa white, offensive, greasy discharge from the heels of the horse. The skin becomes hot, tender and swolJen; the acrid charac- ter of the discharge often causes large portions of the skin to slough away, leaving an ugly sore behind. Treatment: Open the bowels with the following ball: Barbadoes aloes, one oz.; pulverized gentian reot, _ two drs. ; pulverized ginger one dr.; water sufficient to make the ball. Wash the parts well, and poultice for two or three days with the follow- ing: Flaxseed meal mixed with a solution of two drs. sulphate of zinc to - apint of water; after which keep clean and bathe frequently with gly- 4 - oF hee * sheath and other parts. By > ¥- * ." WA AG a - re ee e: cerine or the solution of zinc, or a solution of the chloride of lime may be used, or the bichloride of mercury may be used in inveterate cases with good results, provided it be not repeated oftener than once a week.. WATER FARCY. Anasarca, as it is technically called, is of two kinds; one occurring: in young animals, from inflammatory action; the other in old horses, — from general debility. It is known by swelling of the legs, belly, ibe oa the swollen parts; in old horses there is no pain on press- _ure, but tl.e marks of the finger are left behind. Treatment: Give one of "the following powders night and mor ning in the feed: Sulphate of iron, two ozs. ; nitrate of potassia, one 0z.; pulverized gentian, one 07. ; _ pulverized ginger, six drs. ; anise seed, pid: halfoz.; mix, and ade into eight powders: or, ai ptiate of copper, nitrate of potassia and pul- -verized gentian, of each one oz.; pulverized ginger, half oz.; anise seed, ground, five drs.; mix, and divide into eight powders. and moderate exercise every day are vey important, Ssh a pure; _ atmosphere in your stable. ‘FOUNDER. : “This disease 0 occurs generally in the horse with hard, brittle or con- _—F In young animals there is heat, and pain on — Hand-rubbing — ¥ ; —nud ° si Moll 4 LS ne eee Ps See of the ie In this condition they wait for the oxen ae } diate cause to develop the disease. These causes are a hard dr upon a hard road, watering when warm, particularly when pemn | or spring water is used, standing in a draught of air, ete. ‘Symptoms: 7 _ Fore feet thrown forward, resting upon the heels, weight of the body ix Z thrown back upon the hind legs, front feet hot and tender; pulse full — ; a and quick, respiration accelerated, the animal in very severe cases ‘ pe _seeks relief by lying down. Treatment: If the animal is in full edn): raxt _ dition, bleed freely from the feet, and. give the following: Barbadoes — ae six drs.; croton oil, six drops; pulverized ginger, one dr.; ; pul: | __verized gentian, two drs. ; mix with water in form of a ball; foment the a feet well with hot water, and then poultice with flaxseed meal for several days; give in the water every six hours, extract of belladonna, — e one dr, Under this treatment the worst cases usually recover in “eae _ one week's time ts taken in hand early. ee POMICED FEET, oer aoe é | a ee disease i is known to horsemen as falling of this ‘sole, and is t ‘the Tae | “result of neglected founder. Careful shoeing, so as to ®. penta the - Ue ‘ Bole; is all that can be done in these cases. Br a one | : | ‘i Ae aaa 5 NAVICULAR JOINT LAMENESS. ©) seen \ : Pa RW a | oma joint lameness, as it is commonly called, is one of very com: ee | Dabt occurrence, and the symptoms often so obscure as to mislead Siren ee ce ordinary observer. This disease gererally is preceded for mouths M2 before lameness is observed by pointing, that is, by advancing one one 3 | hua ecneyer the animal is at ‘Test. The degrees of lameness var ry ae i In one case it 3 is one in hint: fir iy WP : , aduaily increasing in inbsigeheye anit. it becomes a peril | ibe s. . In the ee stages of the Pee there is no heal i. © : _. THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. ‘113 symptoms are still more obscure and difficult to diagnose. The action of the horse now becomes changed; he no longer bends his knees with the same freedom as before, he steps short, the heels scarcely touching the ground, which is a good indication of the disease. TREATMENT.—In recent cases the application of a proper blister is usually successful, the common fly blister, thiniied with spirits of tur-— entine, answers a very good purpose; or the following, which must te used with great caution to prevent its leaving a blemish behind: powered cantharides, two drs. : oil of turpentine, two drs.; powdered euphorbium, one dr.; oil of origanum, one dr.; hogs’ lard, two ozs. Mix all together. This should. not be repeated after the blister acts. In cases of long standing, a seton put through the frog will often be of great service in restoring the animal to usefulness. OSSIFICATION OF THE LATERAL CARTILAGES. These cartilages are two grizzly projections or wings attached to the coffin-bone at the heels, and may readily be felt above the hoof. From contraction, corns and other causes, these elastic bodies often become changed from gristle to bone in consequence of inflammation, leaving — the horse with thick heels, and a short, tender tread in traveling. The treatment in these cases is only palliative in its confirmed state; the same treatment as for navicular joint lameness is proper. . SHOULDER STRAIN. This arises from slipping, severe blows, falling in the shafts, ete. The symptoms are all well marked. The animal, instead of raising the foot, drags the toe on the ground in walking; on makingalever of the leg, by. bringing it forward, the animal manifests much pain; — these usually are positive symptoms. TREATMENT.—Bleed freely from the Plantar vein, running down upon the inside of the front legs. Foment the shoulders well with hot water if the case is a recent one. If of long standing, a seton will be more effective. The following liniment will be a useful applica- tion: Sweet oil, one pint; spirits of hartshorn, three ounces; spirits of | bo Peerranting, two ounces; mix all together; shake well before using. Or, alcohol, one pint; spirits of camphor, tincture of myrrh, castile p AOnD of each one ounce; mix all together. Or, oilof turpentine, one __ _ ounce; tincture of opium, one ounce; soap liniment, one ounce; tince- __ i e "ture of en, one > drachm ; mix all together. aan Es: ie hey te ay : > eh Mer in * 0 Fae ee Piet ps + oe. > fae! tie a, n= 5% . ae, rs | Rx nya ‘THE HORSEMAN’ S ILLUSTRATED ¢ eure, 4 a ‘ar CAPPED HOCK, ness. Pinchine of iodine or asia ointment is sometimes useful. ‘ aes 4) Sap ee, ig } : “Ringe pe qa ; BONE SPAVIN, > iS Waa oe | ce This is one of the most common causes of lameness in the hind | | legs. Spavin arises from strains, sprains, or blows upon the hock- .) | joint, causing an inflammatory condition of the cartilaginous cueiaane “ which cover the uniting surfaces of each bone, or of the ligaments _ | | _ that surround the joint and bind the bones together; sometimes both — a | are involved. This inflammatory condition of the joint may be con- <4 i 2 sidered the exciting cause of spavin, and, if not speedily removed, 3 ; y spavin soon follows; the synovial fluid, commonly called joint- -oil, is” : “3 soon absorbed, the cartilages of the joint are turned to bone, which — : a q unite one with the other. forming one solid mass, destroying — tie f px | mobility of the parts involved, and constituting what is technically. ae s called anchylosis of the hock-joint. This union of the bones isnot et always general, there being in many cases but two, three, or four phic a the bones involved. When these changes are confined to the carti- $e ~ lages, there is no external enlargement; on the contrary, when the aoe ligaments surrounding the joint are involved, we have in all cases — 3 | external enlargement. When the hock receives an injury, the course — Le $ of treatment usually pursued by horsemen is very pernicious. — The application of a blister to an inflamed surface must do injury by i ins S Be | - creasing the inflammation they wish to abate, and in many cases act- Ae | ually producing a spavin where it otherwise would not exist. I do 4 | not ear that blisters are sacra and haipee in such cases, ie pee i’. 4 0 A ee Se Pitcc it, is like throwing shavings on pint coals to e rina the or ae $5 _ The educated physician, in applying a blister, does it so az to draw 4 tthe inflammation from the part affected to a part where it will do ni 4 injury; otherwise, it had better not be apple. at all. | oe. fice A> /'Fe eneggs PRES res THe. _ bones, which when perfect, causes the animal to travel sound. The seton I have found the most successful in long-standing cases. In the early stages, that is, before any alteration of structure takes place, the application of cold water to the parts will often abate the inflam- mation, or a blister applied above or below the hock will have the de- sired effect. Cooling embrocations, such as vinegar and water, are » also good. When there is external enlargement, active blisters should be applied over the part. Liquid blister: Powdered cotton-seed, half 0z.; powdered cantharides, one oz.; oil of turpentine, one pt.; olive oil, one pt.; mix altogether and shake well before using. RING-BONE. This is a disease precisely like spavin, location only giving it a dif- < ferent name. The same alterations in structure take place, the same terminations follow, and the same treatment is called for. Ring-bone, unlike spavin, rarely occurs without enlargement. I have never known of but one case of the kind. SPLINT. at the lower extremity of the splint-bone. Few horses attain the age of eight years without having them; they disappear in time by spreading over a greater surface of bone, becoming flat upon the surface, giving rise to the opinion often indulged in by horsemen, that old horses = never have splint.. Splint i is a disease of the same characterasspavin, = and requires the same treatment. CURB. tz This is an enlargement at the back part of the hock about four _ inches below the cap, arising from strains, bruises, pase down of the hock, etc. TREATMENT.—Take benoidide of mercury, three drachms; lard, Be two ounces; mix it well; clip the hair close, just the size of the en- largement, rub the ointment on with the finzvr. In three or four __ days the matter which oozes from the enlargement will form a thick — __ seab; soften with fresh lard and pick it off; rub dry with the hand, — _ THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 115 This is a bony deposit, situated between the cannon and splint 7 bones, well-known to all horsemen, rarely causing lameness, except - when it is situated so as to interfere with the action of the knee-joint, or | 16 and: apply as” above. Five or six ‘apiplloaiies will remove, any : | For splints, apply i in the same manner. whan SO ar ved “BLOOD. OR BOG-SPAVIN, -' 7g This is but one disease, a bursal enlargement, or an increase in the Bae secretion of the joint-oil, causing distention of the capsular ligament which surrounds the joint, causing puffy swellings on the front and a 4 | a inside of the joint, rarely causing lameness. ‘Thoroughpin isthe ‘same disease on a more extensive scale, causing the. enlargement Be ° j to extend through the joint from one side to the other. The only ae successful treatment which I have found, with a few exceptions, is” cu a | cold water compresses, placed upon the joint in such a manner as to — ‘: _ press upon the swollen parts, and retain them there for six or eight J : weeks, by means of a leathern socket made to fit the joint—the com- | : presses to be changed every day; old muslin or woolen cloth is the ee _ best material to use. 7 : ao G3 hed a i PALPITATION OF THE HEART. = = | This disease is known to the horsemen as the thumps, in conse- i “quence of the violent action of the heart, causing a jerking or shaking _ of the entire animal frame, observable at a distance of several yards, — nee | _ This disease is sometimes preceded by an obscure lameness, generally oa j “occurring in the off fore-leg, baleen in medical language, is we peck | _ sympathetic. iz bie! | ; ‘TREATMENT.—The worst cases yield in two ote to the following as : _ simple treatment: Divide one drachm of digitalis into five powders, ed ) 5 and give one every fifteen sansa on the tongue. | nee) pee ae Les > _ INFLAMMATION OF THE BRAIN, ‘Sia Pos Bo ‘ “Mad staggers, as this disease is called, arises from. various causes at "Blows over the head will produce it, overfeeding, a tight collaz : _ powerful stimulants, etc. Symptoms: the animal at first is dull, “py ae moves with apparent reluctance, the membranes dividing the eye-lic - and nose are much reddened, pulse full and quick, appetite 1 Jo ne vacant stare about the eyes, ending in delirium or madness, | of ‘thing around the animal is destroyed or ze ge He ‘continue’ } ene until exhausted. ; sah ee TREATMENT. Open the jugular vein | as avickly wp ssible, THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. Pam 1 5 | “ib ‘should be done before the mad stage comes on, or it is too late to be of 1 much service. Open the bowels freely, give the following: Barbadoes ee aloes, one oz.; croton oil, ten drops; ginger one dr.; gentian one dr.; _ ‘mix with molasses or honey. Give tobacco smoke injections if con- - __—_ venient, or soap and water will answer the purpose, give on the tongue every two hours, ten drops tincture of aconite, until eight doseshave _ been given, and then stop the aconite; give cold water to drink, and . apply cold water bandages to the head, or bags of ice would be better; - give no food for twelve hours after relief .is obtained. a ee ; STOMACH STAGGERS. . i me a « Sa eee ee ™ \e. ha s 245 . sj} Seah, ~ St a > > This disease occurs in horses that are great feeders, in consequence 4 the stomach becomes enormously distended, causing pressure upon the - _ Jungs and heart, interfering with the action of both, and causing a de- ' _ termination of blood to the head, producing stupor, with a tendency — " to pitch forward, resting the head against a tree or any object which ~ _ may be inhis way; the head often becomes bruised and cut by coming _ in contact with hard and rough objects, the bowels are constipated, ais: the pulse full and slow, respiration disturbed, etc. _ ag TREATMENT.—Give the purging ball recommended ininflammation — of the brain, and bleed freely from the jugular vein, give no food for =—_— forty-eight hours. This is all the treatment the animal requires. As soon as the bowels are opened the anima! isrelieved. Care shouldbe __ _ used after recovery not to allow the animal too much provender, and _ keep the bowels in good order, as a preventive of subsequent attacks. x ona be eed the a: Se ee 4 ‘ POLL-EVIL. This disease is said to arise from blows upon the head behind the __ ears, in going in or out of stables with low doors, pulling upon the = | halter, etc. Such injuries in animals whose blood is ina badcondition =— will cause poll-evil, but it cannot live in a healthy system. The ~ author’s experience convinces him that the disease oftener arises from S hereditary causes than from any other, having met with on several _ occasions two or three unbroken colts, from the same mare, affected with this disease, proving beyond a doubt the ready transmission of _ the disease from parent to offspring. "TREATMENT. —The blood must be thoroughly purified before & cure “ : ce can be effected. Give the following powder: Pulverized sulphur,one = — oe Sie a oe a Bb, foc tr. be ie rd eee ee it * il A"= See en 4 ht ea oe i 5 es. ? ; ‘S ‘? ¥ Bi: i ’ f % A. c* $24 ir 118 =} «Ibe; black anatomy in Sone half Ib. ; ; mix ‘apedliegs dha ‘one e table. ay a spoonful, morning and night, in the feed. No corn or corn-meal — should be given. Open the bowels with aloes or linseed oil. Lay the | _ tumor open with a knife, and inject into the opening a solution ee - A sulphate of zinc, two drachms to a pint of water, or the tincture of ___._ iodine is very good; sulphuric acid is used in some cases, but it is a ‘dangerous remedy. FISTULA OF THE WITHERS. This disease is situated on the withers, or the raised lineofthe . ‘back, over the shoulders, and is precisely the same disease as poll- _ ' evil, location only giving it a different name. It is more common than poll-evil, as ten to one; arising from the same causes, and requir- _ ing the same treatment; it yields: however, more readily than the former disease. GLANDERS. This loathsome disease has defied medical treatment in all ages of | the world. It is one of the most treacherous diseases known to man, me | being highly contagious, and communicated readily from horse to — horse and from horse to man, by means of inoculation. Hence,-the = ot | ‘best treatment is a leaden ball through the brain. Symptoms: A re | discharge of matter from one or both nostrils, enlargement of one or oe} | ‘both glands under the jaw. When ene nostril only is affected, the on | gland on the same side is almost invariably enlarged, the membrane — ee _ lining the nose is pale or leaden in celor, with ulcerations upon it. — + | _ The discharge usually sticks to the nostrils like glue, and is sometimes Reaa white, but oftener grayish in color. These latter symptoms appear A Sh | _ other diseases of a catarrhal character from’ an acrid discharge from . the nose. Glanders fully developed is not easily confounded with — | -other diseases, as the discharge becomes more glutinous, and adheres — A to the edges of the nostrils more firmly, with increased tenderness of the swellings under the jaw, which now adheres closely to the jaw- Nea the discharge is somewhat streaked with blood, and of an offen- — _ sive smell; there isa slight tumefaction of the under eye-lid, a swell- ing or elevation of the bones of the nese or forehead, loss of appetite, Bs _ debility, sometimes cough, swelling of the legs and sheath, an som x mes. lameness Nd sk any apparent ea CRSHENOE: OF: ceré ‘ F 4 uy a . “ Ne si tr . z * ? * ¥ ‘ ae, 2 yes fs hi rm P Pe ae Peat! Be PAL war” ae e ey aie oy pas Al Seda gy teenies okay By ee . Ss Est ; f fa ta Sy . epee Se ar He iy oer , a aa See 4, ee © fe as: I. 122, SYMPTOMS. = The horse appears well in oe dnd ‘limb, Ewer ef are made to move him; he then appears to have Jost all. power ae! motion in one of his legs, usually the hind ones; it is firmly salle ¥ Say _ on the ground, and the most powerful man fails to move it. On com- ay -__ pelling the animal to move, the leg drags behind as though it were | ny dislocated. Upon striking him with the whip he frequently will rome pe two or three natural steps, and the leg drags as before. - a TREATMENT.—Hand rubbing is very necessary, and use the follow. Saf | ing liniment upon the affected part: Alcohol, one pint; tincture of = d | camphor, one-half pint; tincture of opium, four ounces; mix all ma _ together | | ae eee, WARTS, Mi ee ey a 2 | When the warts have necks, all that is necessary for their seanneenie tty As picce of silk tied tightly around them as closely to the roots as — 4 possible; in a few days they will slough away; or if they.are inspect their base, pass a needle, armed with a double thread, through the 2 wart as near the root as possible, and tie each way so as to cut off the — a circulation of the blood, and it will soon die and come away; or paint — it over with the permanganate of potash once a day for a week; or. 6 % | use the caustic potash in the same manner; either of these remedies _ ae di - usually answers the purpose. | Piper ike s, * ee 3 \ , ee cya | SADDLE-GALLS. igs, ¢ rela ANTS a J “These are too well-known to horsemen to require ay special i _ remarks regarding their cause, etc. a bes we 4 | _ 'TREATMENT.—Bathe the parts two or three times a day with equal parts ot tincture of myrrh and tincture of aloes; or, collodion, eed oh - ounce; castor oil, two ounces; mixed together. | is also a oi a _ very good remedy. _ ‘iy Skee es) | Kens yee eer ame DISEASES OF THE EYE—AMAUROSIS, OR GUTTA ee ms are dant and Si no indications of disease to the rage Boe 4 "yet the animal is partially or wholly blind. The cause is paralysis of of oa | the optic nerve, the best means of detecting which is to expose | ee: to different pad of light, Neca ‘when disease ex wie Mi oh ey a “a ou, be 5" -) ; ee i Te 43 Oe _ ae yee — “ar ts e «, - 4 a 2 1 1 9e 6 tes » ~~ oe tll " ; f *. os: n a we : ~*% ~ - Re Ce rx ty AEF a3 yor: C. 2 mes ; a “f ae a Pas + - ~ * q 4 F , >. nl < 4 ma ego SF aN or ee _- THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. 1238 no impression on the pupil whatever; while in a sound eye the pupil contracts when exposed to a strong light, and expands when removed ~ to a weaker light, or when removed to a dark-place. An animal oe affected with amaurosis will run against any object in his way, and ry ' __ present all other symptome-pf a horse blind from any other cause. = TREATMENT.—Give a strong purge; follow this twice a day with ee half-drachm doses of nux vomica, mixed in the feed; apply a fly 3 blister back of the eye, and give bran-mashes for a few days. No corn should be used until the sight is restored. | | 7 , a INFLAMMATION OF THE HAW. ee As it is commonly called; also known as the Hooks. This is a swel- ling from inflammation of the membrane in the inner corner of the — eye, called the membrana nictitans. Its office or functionistocleanse the eye of dirt or other substances getting into it. a TREATMENT.—This is simple and effective; open the bowels with — the aloes ball recommended in rheumatism, and apply the following wash: tincture of opium, one ounce; rain water, one pint; mix to- gether and bathe the eye three or four times a day. Donot beper- __ -suaded to cut out this membrane of the eye, as its removal does in- jury by impairing its functions. q y | SIMPLE OPHTHALMIA. - This disease arises from some external injury, as a blow upon the mee mat aa, or from a foreign body getting in to it, causing inflammation to ensue ; the eye becomes swollen, very sensitive and watery. ee TREATMENT.—Open the vein under the eye, and let it bleed until it __ stops of itself.- Open the bowels, and use the following wash: tinct- ure of opium, six drachms ; tincture of aconite, two drachms; rain- water, one pint; mix all together, and bathe the eye three times 4 day; or, use belladonna, one ounce, rain-water, one pint; mix, and bathe _ the same. * ft as SPECIFIC OPHTHALMIA., | This i is called by horsernen, moon-blindness, from its poricdicnl ap- ‘pearance; supposed by some persons to be governed by the moon. _ The eyes in this disease become watery, and a white film covers the | nie on of the eye. When this disease once appears, we may look © 124 THE HORSEMAN’S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE. for its termination in blindness. The eyes may be cleared up a few times, but eventually the animal goes blind. TREATMENT.—Open the bowels freely with the aloes ball, and give internally one of the following powders in the feed, night and morn- ing; colchicum root, pulverized, one ounce; linseed meal, two ounces; mix and divide into twenty powders. Bathe the eye with the follow- ing: belladonna, one ounce; rain-water, one pint; or nitrate of silver, eight grains; distilled water, four ounces, mix; or sulphate of zinc, half drachm; diacetate of lead, one drachm; water, one and a half pints; or take a piece of sulphate of copper (blue stone), shave it thin and smooth, and pass it carefully between the eyelid and the eyeball twice a day until the eye is cleared up. CATARACT. This disease is usually the result of termination of specific ophthal- mia, causing an opacity or breaking up of the crystalline lens, situa- ted directly behind the pupil, presenting a white and cloudy appear- ance in the centre of the eye, and causing partial or total blindness. Little can be done by way of treatment in this disease as it occurs in the horse. : sb - os "y oe ; = a j = ht * 4 -y ore iy ,