pamenpe telnet Ae ~ Se ce eT CG eg IMS Pte Seago eat aC net GP ot ei ne nll Es ES 7 Te eal a I ee ——— a 7 iad 7 —~ oo ea, + Ne - ! pa ah Ae bs y fi. AT i, sy) ie) My A tn a ‘ee ec, elo A OM : dae Naf nee +. ee) ; u Me ’ ; ny é ; ; nd Home HOUSE. PLANTS THEIR CARE AND CULTURE BY HUGH BINDLAY, B.S.A. ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF HORTICULTURE, JOSEPH SLOCUM COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE, SYRACUSE UNIVERSITY WITH 125 ILLUSTRATIONS D. APPLETON AND COMPANY NEW YORK LONDON 1916 SB4\4 Coryricut, 1916, BY D. APPLETON AND COMPANY Printed in the United States of America 417 ‘ ©ciA428889 MAY -8 1916 WAS TO MY MOTHER WHOSE GENTLE SPIRIT TAUGHT ME TO DREAM AND TO MY FATHER WHOSE ROUGH HANDS AND RUGGED HEART TAUGHT ME TO WORK ary ; Ly t i é _ ° en 7 ‘ : _ 2 re ° . ‘ di an ’ 4 hy er ‘ ‘4 oS 2 oS ay? ee - ~ ‘ ft ‘ woe i big PREFACE Wuite it is impossible to describe the many and varied conditions in which plants eke out an existence during the severe winter nights in our window gar- dens, yet it is hoped that the general consideration of such conditions have been touched upon and help- ful suggestions made in this book. Careful directions have been given as to the best possible place for a window garden, soil preparation, and general treatment of the cultural methods of growing common house plants, with minute directions as to the control of diseases and insects. With each plant described is a brief sketch of its history, as well as a careful description of propagation. It is hoped that this book will aid in better and surer results in attaining the pleasure and other bene- fits in raising plants in the window or conservatory. I am indebted to the following gentlemen for pho- tographs: Frederick H. Southworth; E. J. Kuhne; Lord and Burnham Co., Rochester, N. Y.; College of Photography, Syracuse University; and to the Curtis Publishing Co. for allowing me to reprint the articles on Insects, The Rubber Plant, and Care of Vil PREFACE Porch Boxes, published in The Country Gentleman. I am especially under obligations to my friend, Hon. John T. Roberts, for his careful and expert criticism of the book, and also to Peter Henderson for the information regarding the plant a as given in “Henderson’s Handbook of Plants.” I also wish to acknowledge the kindness of my friends who allowed me to photograph their choice plants, and to Frances and Mary Allen for the fron- tispiece. Hveuw Friyvray. CHAPTER Vitt, CONTENTS Tue Home BeavtTirut . Prant WiINpdows AND CONSERVATORIES Tue Soiv ror Por Puiants Pots anv PorTine WATERING Natura AND CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS SPRAYING OR SYRINGING DisEAsEs AND THEIR ConTROL Insects aND THEIR ConTROL GENERAL PRINCIPLES AND Mertrnuops IN PROPAGATION . Bus Curture FLrowrerinec PLants For THE WINDOW GARDEN . ORNAMENTAL FouiacGe PLaAnts Russer Piantr CuRYSANTHEMUM Roser PaLM FrerN PAGE CILAPTER XIX. XX. XXI. XXII. XXIII. XXIV. CONTENTS Cactus . VINEs . Porcu AND Winpow Boxes FLower Baskets . SEASONAL Care or PLANTS HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS . INDEX ° PAGE 263 269 282 289 296 307 315 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Home : : : : : . . Frontispiece FIG. PAGE 1.—A beautiful conservatory . F : : a 2.—Interior of a well filled conservatory . 3 ih 3.—Lean-to greenhouse heated from the cellar . 9 4.—Interior of lean-to greenhouse with vegeta- bles and flowers combined . A at 20.—Plant lice or green fly (aphides) on the young growing stem of a vinea vine pe 21.—Death to green aphides or plant lice . - a0 22.—The common scale insect (Lecanium hemi- sphericum) on a Boston fern . i ond 23.—Preparations for spraying : . 58 24.—The white fly (Aleyrodes citri and A. tee fera) on a fuchsia leaf . 2 : : 59 25.—Sure death to white fly and aphides . :,, 200 26.—Mass of mealy bug (Pseudococcus citri and P. longifilis) on a coleus plant : ee 27.—Interior of a stem. 64 28.—A sifting pan, flat, and hanes for ee prop- agation of plants from seed . : 1. wos 29.—Double propagating pot . : - “4 4 ee 30.—Home-made propagation bed . : « —68 31.—Propagation bed complete . : : 7D ® rr 32.—A propagating bed. ; i 33.—Diagram showing how to pot ad pit "bull 74 34.—Tapping edge of pot in order to remove soil from pot : ; : : : Barres (2) 35.—Position of hand over soil in order not to disturb the root system . : : => ae 36.—A beautifully developed root system . eth 37.—Method of restoring the ball. . a gat f 38.—Hyacinth with a well developed root system 80 39.—Several well developed blooms of the hya- cinth in a pan p : : : «. “83 Xll LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 40.—Three well developed hyacinths in a three- quarter-sized pot : 41.—A hyacinth bulb with a well der eeel root system in a bulb jar : ; : 42.—Hyacinth which has been given too much water and food 43.—Tulips : : : 44.—A beautiful group of aable narcissus 45.—Easter lily 46.—Lily of the Nile, alle 4'7.—The cyclamen 48.—Amaryllis formosissima 49.—Alphonse Riccard 50.—Beauté Potevine . 51.—A good bloom but a Hey ee Ae 52.—A bed of geranium planted out after storing in a cellar over the winter 53.—Lady Washington 54.—Tree-shaped fuchsia . 55.—The cineraria 56.—Japanese spirea 57.—A beautiful gloxinia . 58.—The gloxinia : : ; 59.—An amateur’s window of gloxinias 60.—Abutilons originated by Anson Wheels, Morrisville, N. Y. . 61.—The abutilon or flowering maple 62.—Boston fern or hibiscus in combination with other plants 63.—Double petunia . xill PAGE 100 106 111 120 121 122 123 125 128 131 135 143 145 147 148 149 152 155 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. PAGE 64.—Primula abconica : : : : 108 65.—A fine specimen of heliotrope’ . ; a Rees 66.—The marguerite . : : 3 : ~ ite 7.—Pot-grown carnation . : : : - 109 68.—Hydrangea otaska grown in a window gar- den : ‘ ‘ : : - Pm i 69.—Tuberous root begonias_. ; : =< Jee 70.—Fancy leaf begonias originated by Anson Wheeler, Morrisville, N. Y. . ; Bt hs 71.—Rex begonia 2 d : : ; . 186 72.—Propagation of the rex begonia . : . ew 73.—Begonia metallica : : : : . £85 74.—Begonia argentea guttata . . : «, Skee 75.—Gloire de Lorraine . : : : . 190 76.—Silver leaf begonia . : : : - “on 77.—Araucaria . . : ‘ : : . 193 78.—Aspidistra elatior variegata . : = U0 79.—An ornamental arrangement of century plants. ‘ : E : : - 202 80.—American aloe variegata_. : : . 208 81.—The coleus, a beautiful foliage plant . . 1205 82.—Coleus cutting . ; : : : . 206 83.—A single mealy bug on a coleus Recor set- tling : : : : 3 : = 207 84.—The rubber plant ; : Z : . 210 85.—Stem of a rubber plant wounded to make a cutting . - : : ‘ ‘ «een 86.—Wounded stem bound in sphagnum moss. 212 87.—Placing clay over wound to prevent bleeding 213 XIV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. PAGE 88.—Finger pointing at root showing through moss 5 : 2 : : « 214 89.—Young rubber alvat : : 215 90.—Three beautiful pink single stem loans of Glory of the Pacific : : ; .. 218 91.—Chrysanthemums : : - J 22 92.—The Dorothy Perkins : : : = 226 93.—Rose cuttings , 7) 94.—The mildew dusted with toners of ee 232 95.—A group of palms in a shady place for the summer . : . : : Po eon 96.—A fine specimen of Kentia idiots . 239 97.—Position of the hands while washing a palm leaf : j : : : : ~ 240 98.—San José scale on a palm leaf. ; on 243 99.—The Cocoa weddelliana P : : . 244 100.—Nephrolepis magnifica : : ; - 247 101.—Fine feathery roots of the Boston fern . 248 102.—Diagram showing the cross section of a fern pot 3 3 . ‘ : 3 - 249 103.—Moss fern . : - : : 3 a 200 104.—Crested fern : : : ‘ : Bo 2a2 105.—Crow’s nest or bird’s nest fern. - « 253 106.—A beautiful Boston fern . : : - 254 107.—A beautiful pteris fern. : ‘ a) eon 108.—Asparagus sprengeri ; 5 . 1 ¢2a9 109.—Asparagus plumosus manus ° : t 2G) 110.—Night-blooming cereus at 9:30 P. M. . - 265 111.—Night-blooming cereus at 4:30 P. M. . - 267 112.—A pot of German ivy : : : See XV LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 113.—A hanging basket of tradescantia or Wan- dering Jew 114.—The graceful vinca major variegata 115.—An artistic porch box and lattice 116.—A window box with oan lines but poorly filled 117.—Sod steps balanced on at aide! by dete porch boxes 118.—An artistic entrance, dracaenas, cs and vineas in the boxes 119.—Hanging baskets add beauty to this entrance 120.—Hanging basket before filling 121.—Hanging basket after filling 122.—A well filled basket : 123.—The exterior view of an attractive bay win- dow : , : ‘ ; ‘ : 124.—The interior of an attractive window garden 125.—The King Adjustable Plant Stand suitable for conservatories PAGE 275 277 283 284 286 287 289 290 293 294 297 304 311 HOUSE PLANTS HOUSE PLANTS, THEIR CARE AND CULTURE CHAPTER I THE HOME BEAUTIFUL Tue chief end of labor should be human happiness, and so the effort that is put forth in the cultural art of taking care of house plants not only brings happiness to the heart of the grower, but also to the passer-by who with a hungry soul admires this plant or that in the window and remembers. Often after the chaotic condition of our minds, the battle of the day having been lost or won, we seat ourselves near the big window and look at our plants. What a peace comes over our hearts as our plant friends scatter flower memories over the barrenness of our 1 HOUSE PLANTS souls. The corner stone of evolution itself is the home, and there is no occupation that will make this corner stone more beautiful than the culture of house plants. The suggestions put forth in this book are from personal experience and observation. I have followed this chosen profession from boy- hood and I owe much to my father’s guidance as an expert gardener and florist and to my mother’s tender heart in encouraging me in the love and study of plant life. So I have watched the evolution of the Home Beautiful and have taken part in the delightful occupa- tion of caring for the window garden. There are a number of books on house plants, and it is hoped that the detailed de- scription of the care and culture of the various plants common to the home, as found in this book, will encourage the culture of more house plants and better house plants, and finally to create a greater love for the home, the com- munity, and our beautiful country of homes and flowers. bo CHAPTER II PLANT WINDOWS AND CONSERVATORIES WHETHER or not to keep house plants is a question that comes to every housekeeper once a year. Failure on previous occasions may decide for the negative, but with a large num- ber of plucky and sanguine women it works the other way. Having failed once is a reason for renewed effort and improved method. It may be found that the presence of the plants has been embarrassing in many of the homes. They have shaded windows that were needed for lighting the rooms. They have interfered with ventilation. They have caused no end of anxiety on cold nights. Yes, this may all be painfully true. Still why not keep them a little longer? Keep them for patience’ sake and for the children. But cannot some- thing be done to improve conditions? Those 3 HOUSE PLANTS windows—why not make a study of these things in the summertime and arrange special Courtesy of Lord and Burnham Co. Fic. 1.—A BreautiruL CONSERVATORY plant alcoves in addition to the regular light- ing windows? Much may be done even in the BT WINDOWS AND CONSERVATORIES old houses to make the plants feel at home. But when a new home is being planned then certainly a little ingenuity without additional expense can provide a charming solution of the plant question. Why do not house archi- tects take up this matter and help the per- plexed housekeeper? Bearing in mind that certain plants need a south or east exposure, while others, like ferns, should always be shaded, let the architect specify two bay win- dows, each in some manner provided with heat and if possible separated from the rooms by glass doors. All of this will cost some addi- tional money; so will the bathroom, the piano, the fireplace. We provide many things in our homes that could be dispensed with. Why not think of the winter lodgings of the children and those who used to be children? One convenient plan we would suggest is a long bay window entered from two adjoining rooms, kitchen and dining-room, a glass door for each room. It should be at least five feet wide and if you are brave enough, insist on a 5 HOUSE PLANTS glass roof. In such a room, which is really a conservatory, there are most beautiful possi- bilities. } And why do not our schools have their plant rooms or conservatories or even complete greenhouses? Many cities are spending yearly from $700,000 to $1,000,000 in con- structing new school buildings in which they provide rest rooms, swimming-pools, kitchens, dance halls, sewing-rooms, workshops. Not one of these contains a suggestion of a plant room. What a beautiful feature of school life would be a twelve by sixteen greenhouse, cost- ing one hundred and twenty dollars to build and no additional cost for heating! Why not let the church consider the construction of a plant room adjoining the auditorium or the Sunday-school room? Let it be twenty by six- teen feet at least. Make it large enough for the mid-week prayer meeting of winter nights. Suppose a few carnations or roses or a hand- ful of heliotrope could go out from such a room to the home of a sick member or for a 6 Courtesy of Lord and Burnham Co. Fic. 2.—InTERIoR oF A WELL FILLED CONSERVATORY Note the grace and beauty of hanging baskets. i HOUSE PLANTS birthday reminder or to enforce a thought struggling for mastery. Would they not be suitable helps to the sermon? Call them home missionaries. And why should there not be a few munici- pal greenhouses where people unable to grow and watch plants in their own homes might get an occasional half-hour’s joy of the summer- time when winter is pressing down the spirit of man? Probably there are in every city hun- dreds of persons, infirm, poor, cramped for house room, to whom a welcome at a green- house would be most enjoyable. It need not be large nor expensive. Common varieties of flowers could be grown, the more familiar the better. Cities are looking after the enjoy- ment of the youngsters more and more. They must have their playgrounds, their skating areas, their swimming-pools. Why should not their grandparents, banished forever from lux- ury, from rural delights, from participation in the pursuits of agriculture, have an occasional breath of garden air in the dreary winter days? 8 WINDOWS AND CONSERVATORIES Think what the great parks of European cities would be without their popular gardens and greenhouses. Our finest remembrances of ag ‘ Panes oa ss : : 4 Oe ON oy : “y ae - Se Courtesy of Lord and Burnham Co. Fig. 3.—LEAN-TO GREENHOUSE HEATED FROM THE CELLAR 9 HOUSE PLANTS London and Paris have to do with the gardens maintained by the municipalities. And how the people do love them! Yet no cooperative plan worked out in the lines suggested can properly take the place of the dear little plant corner in every home. The plant window is subject to fluctuations of temperature on account of the artificial means by which it is heated, while the mois- ture and lighting may to a limited extent be governed. On extremely cold nights, close the windows tightly, pull down the shades and if necessary place a large lamp or oilstove in the window. Where a radiator is used a pan of water should always be placed on it so as to keep the air moist during the day, but this should be removed not later than three P. mM. during the winter months so that the moisture is eliminated during the cold night. The tem- perature is best controlled by having a small individual stove with pipes leading to the win- dow greenhouse so that it supplies heat di- rectly to it. This method of heating always 10 WINDOWS AND CONSERVATORIES pays since the stove costs about twenty dollars and the piping about ten dollars, while the cost of coal is small compared with the results rea- 74 Courtesy of Lord and Burnham Co. Fic. 4.—InTERIOR oF LEAN-TO GREENHOUSE WITH VEGETABLES AND FLowrers CoMBINED Note plants under the bench. Every possible place utilized. lized in the production of perfect plants and beautiful bloom. The lean-to greenhouse is one of the most satisfactory of all simple and inexpensive con- 11 HOUSE PLANTS structions. It is certain that the reason more people do not have small greenhouses is be- cause they have only a vague idea of their pos- sibilities. A small greenhouse such as shown in Fig. 3 costs about two hundred and fifty dollars to six hundred dollars and the pleasure of tending garden in one of these thoroughly built, splendidly equipped houses is beyond estimation. I have seen in a small greenhouse, heated by a small heater in the cellar, lettuce, radishes and other vegetables and also many beautiful flowers grown at the same time. If a piazza or bay-window conservatory, or one constructed over a cellar door, or a lean-to greenhouse is to be built, it is the general opin- ion that a reliable greenhouse firm should be consulted and if the directions advised are carried out regarding construction and _ heat- ing, success is sure to follow. CHAPTER III THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS God breathed the breath of life into the soil and it smiled back at its Creator in the form of a flower.—H. F. Tue plants in field or wood, in garden or home depend not alone on oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen from the atmosphere, but also on a combination of elements found in the soil. It must be remembered from the beginning that the plants taken into the home are often handicapped by the various gases in the room or conservatory and also by the limited amount of soil in the pot or bench, and often by lack of the right type of soil for the particular plant. The proper soil treated with sufficient air and water and with ordinary fertility will de- velop satisfactory plants, but why not make a 13 HOUSE PLANTS study of the natural haunts of your plants, as far as possible, and the kind of soil in which they thrive best, and then apply your knowl- edge and be satisfied with only the best results? There are many combinations of soil, but for general purposes the compost soil is the best. Do not start to build the heap in a low-lying place, but give it good drainage. Invert six inches of sod over the surface, then throw on six inches of loose garden loam, add six to eight inches of cow manure on top of this and then another layer of soil and manure. Re- move the stones. After a heap of the desired size, not over four feet high, is built, cover with inverted sod six inches deep on sides and top. Allow this to stand for three months or more (winter), then chop the sods into small pieces, mix and turn the entire heap. ‘This should be done at least three times before the soil is used, thus distributing all of the fertilizers evenly. It is also advisable to scatter bone meal over the soil, but never dump garbage or pour dish- water over the heap as is occasionally advised. 14 THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS Another compost is made by using a foot of leaves on the bottom, six inches of soil and sod Fic. 5.—D1IAGRAM SHOWING THE CONSTRUCTION OF A Compost HEAP S, surface of soil; A, soil and sod; B, manure; C, sod, grass side down and six inches of horse manure, straw having been used for bedding the horses. Add con- siderable bone meal ground fine. If the horse manure should be a little dry, give it a good watering. A good compost for ferns is made by using one foot of leaves, one foot of dark rich garden loam and sod, a little sheep manure scattered 15 HOUSE PLANTS over the soil and then repeated in layers until the heap is three or four feet in height. Turn ae, <2 K N f Fic. 6.—A Compost Hear or Sop, GARDEN Loam, anD HoRsE MANURE 16 THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS over a number of times after three or four months, leaving the compost loose and friable. There is a general opinion that the black woods dirt is very rich. This is a mistake, and forest soil should never be used alone for any cultivated plant. Nevertheless the muck-land soil is fine to add to the fern compost heap, but see to it that vermin are destroyed by steriliz- ing. Many housewives put the soil in the oven. Be careful not to cook and kill your soil by leaving it in the heat too long—never more than twenty or thirty minutes. The soil is alive just as much as the plant, and there are millions of small organisms that live only a short period, die and become plant food as they decay in the soil. Too much heat will de- stroy all of this life which is of the greatest importance to growth. The clay type of soil is suited only to a few plants, like the rose, but stiff clay should never be used. It is not a mistake to add the sod from the clay soil and also a little horse ma- nure to the clay compost, especially for the 17 HOUSE PLANTS rose. Bone meal should be added in liberal quantities to the clay soil because the plant food is not liberated all at once but gradually. Clay in itself is often rich, but the plant food is locked up and any fermentation will aid in liberating it. Sand is the most desirable type for the prop- agation of plants. Clean white sand is pref- erable, but road sand is good. There is little vegetable matter in it. Any decay in the soil | coming in contact with the wounded portion of the cutting will in turn cause the cutting to decay. Fungus growths of various kinds are retarded in clean sand because of the lack of plant food, and the looseness of the sand will admit the air. Certain types of soils become sour by the use of too much water or from pots standing in vessels partly filled with water. The tips of the roots begin to decay and turn brown. The same condition is found on roots where the pots containing resting plants during the summer are left standing in damp, shady places. 18 THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS Whenever leaf mold is used in the compost it is not a bad plan to scatter a little lime over the soil, but never over the manure or leaves, for this will tend to preserve them and prevent decay. There is a great deal of discussion as to the kind of manure to use. Cow manure is the most desirable of all, because it mixes so evenly in the soil and there are fewer worms in it than in horse manure. It also has an evenly bal- anced food value for the plants. Horse ma- nure is also valuable, providing the horse is fed grain (oats) and bedded in straw. ‘The ma- nure from horses fed solely on hay and bedded in pine shavings is never desirable, be- cause the manure is poor in food value and the pine shavings tend to sour the soil as well as to keep it too loose. The shavings are slow to decay and have little or no food value, and since there is a limited space in the pot for soil every available advantage should be taken to favor the plant. Chicken manure is very highly concentrated i) HOUSE PLANTS and often burns the roots of plants where it is used too freely. I have successfully potted ferns in three parts soil and sod, one part leaf mold, a little chicken manure and lime scat- tered through the compost, but care must be taken in combining these. Never use hog manure. The odor is offensive in the house even when the parts are well mixed. Sheep manure is more concentrated than either horse or cow manure, and when pulverized and used in limited quantities it is most satisfactory. It is not always possible to have the combi- nations of soils and manures suggested, but with our modern methods of travel even the city folk may get into the country and secure a pail or basket of rich garden loam. Do not shake out the sod or roots, for fiber, if not too rough, will soon decay and aid in the growth of the plants. The roots and sod not only decay and liberate food, but they help to hold the moisture in the soil, which is of great impor- tance. Your success is in the soil you use as well as in the care you give your plants, so there 20 THE SOIL FOR POT PLANTS cannot be too much attention given to the preparation of the soil. No one can advise you as to the combination to use in your part of the country without first having some experience with the soil, because soils vary so much, but after a year’s observation you can easily select the best soil suited for the individual plant. This always adds interest to window garden- ing, for every plant lover is experimenting and hoping for the best results. When you can feel the heart throb of the soil you are in tune with nature and you will succeed in your at- tempt to grow house plants. CHAPTER IV POTS AND POTTING THERE are two classes of plants to be con- sidered when the pots are to be selected: flow- ering and foliage plants. The flowering plants in general do not require as large pots as do Fic. 7.—Srrres or Practicau Pots A series of shifts for a growing plant from a three- to a six-inch pot. the foliage plants, for we find that the flowers are more abundant if the plant is a little pot- bound, while the foliage plants require more water and therefore more soil. The kind of 22 POTS AND POTTING plants grown often governs our selection of pots. Tulips and hyacinths do well in earthen bulb pans, varying from six inches to eighteen inches, while geraniums do better in earthen flower pots, which are much deeper, while the very large plants require tubs. ‘The shallowest of all are the earthen fern pans and they vary in size according to the use they are put to. These pots range in size as seen in Fig. 7. Before potting with new pots it is advisable to submerge them in water for at least an hour, so that they may be saturated with water, and this will prevent the pot from drawing the moisture from the soil. The new pots should be drained for a few minutes before using, oth- erwise it will be difficult to remove the soil in a ball when desired, the soil adhering to the side of the pot. Of all the operations in the work of potting, the providing of drainage is the most impor- tant. Invert a piece of crock over the hole on the bottom of the pot and then put in one-half inch of rough soil in the bottom. This will in- 23 HOUSE PLANTS sure drainage. Pots over four inches should always be treated in this way. In some cases (fern) lumps of charcoal placed at the bottom of the pot will aid drainage and also admit the air to the soil and in this way keep it sweet. A B Fic. 8.—Pots AND SAUCERS A, stationary saucer, seldom emptied and often a detriment to growth; B, portable saucer and pot. The saucer may be emp- tied after each watering. If the crock is not used in large pots the soil is often washed out by the water and the con- tinual displacement of soil from the roots in- jures the plant, and also keeps the bench or sill dirty. Where the amateur feels that plants must be watered every day, which is not 24 POTS AND POTTING always necessary, proper drainage is of the greatest importance to prevent an oversupply of water which shuts out the air and in turn sickens the plant. Where the plants are standing on benches Fic. 9.—Fancy Pots Fancy pots difficult to keep clean but attractive. have an inch of ashes on the bottom and over these scatter a little lime. This will aid drain- age as well as prevent slugs. Plates, saucers and vessels of any kind into which the pots are set are dangerous if the water is not removed. The stagnant water will soon sour the soil and kill the roots. 25 HOUSE PLANTS Never use tin cans. While I have seen some fine plants grown in tin cans, yet they might have been finer had they been grown in pots. The cans rust and kill the tips of the tender roots. While iron is necessary to a limited amount in the soil, yet too much is very dan- gerous to growth. Glazed pots are objection- able and wood fiber pots do not last long. The hand- or machine-made earthen pots are by far the best. Do not give the young plants too much food. A small pot should be used at the beginning, to be followed by a gradual increase in size according to the habit of growth and the type of plant treated. Hold the seedling between the first finger and thumb of the left hand, covering the heart of the young plant with the seed leaves. With the right hand partly fill the pot with soil, place the seedling at the proper depth, being careful never to cover the growing tip, then fit the soil about the plant. Place the thumbs of each hand on both sides of the plant 26 POTS AND POTTING and firm the soil about it (Fig. 12), then lift the pot with both hands and strike the bottom squarely against the potting bench in order to firm the soil. Larger plants are firmed by tamping the soil with a flat stick. Always be M4 ul i i" “ae won Tr ee ety Fe ei ee , i] (e¥) 8B Fic. 10.—Dr1acram or A Pot ContTAINING PLANT A, Drainage hole at bottom of pot; B, bench; C, ashes; D, broken crock, inverted to promote drainage; E, rough soil, sod and small stones; F, soil; G, rim of pot. sure to give the roots freedom in position, but never allow an air space below the roots, for this means sure death to the plant. After the plant has reached a certain growth it is well to examine the roots by placing the 27 HOUSE PLANTS left hand over the surface of the soil, the stem of the plant between the second and third fin- gers. Invert and strike the rim of the pot on the edge of some solid object, remove the pot Fig. 11.—Portine a PLANT Position of plant in pot. Fill in the soil around the roots. carefully, so as not to disturb the roots. After the roots have been examined, cover the ball of soil while it is in the same position in the hand; when all the ball of soil is in the pot, turn it right side up and firm the soil by striking the 28 POTS AND POTTING bottom of the pot against the potting bench. When the operation of potting is completed the soil should be three-fourths to an inch be- low the top of the rim (Fig. 13), so that the Fig. 12.—Pottine a PLANT Position of thumbs in pressing soil about the roots. water may be evenly distributed over the sur- face. If the pot is too full of soil the water runs off and the plant receives no benefit. In repotting old plants or plants that have been resting during the summer, shake off the 29 HOUSE PLANTS old soil, prune off all disfigured or decayed roots and a few of the good roots, then prune the top so that there is a balance between the requirements of the foliage and the supply Fic. 13.—Porrep PLant CoMPLETE Note the rim of the pot and the heart of the plant. Room for water. through the root system. Always be sure to have the soil firm about the plant. Newly potted plants, seedlings, cuttings or old plants should be kept in the shade for a few days so that they may get established before coming to the light. 30 POTS AND POTTING The soil becomes tired of water, gases and general conditions in the pot and it is to the ad- vantage of the grower to take time and interest to repot at least once a year. Where the soil is rich, the pot large enough, and fertilizers used at various times, one potting a year is enough and with the large tub plants once in six or eight years. There are now on the mar- ket Krick’s pot hangers, also the Eureka hangers. In this case the pot is used as a hang- ing basket, the air from the bottom, sides and top dries it out more quickly than a pot on a bench; therefore the plant requires more _ water.., Care should be taken to have plants, espe- cially seedlings, placed in the center of the pot. I have never seen anyone careless in this small detail who was truly successful with plants. CHAPTER V WATERING WE have no set rule or time for watering plants, but all plants should be watered when necessary. This is determined by the grower, for on dull days the plants need less water than on bright days. It is not a good practice to allow the plant to flag or wilt before water is applied. The best practice for the general culture is to rap the pots, and should there be a hollow sound, the soil below the surface is dry and if a dull, dead sound the soil is moist even though the surface may look dry. Some overzealous persons usually water the plant every day and sometimes twice a day. If this practice is followed, the plants become sickly before long, the leaves turn yellow and the growth becomes spindling. Few flowers, if any, are developed on such plants. Judg- 32 WATERING ment must be exercised from the watering of the seed bed until the harvest of the bloom. In watering the seed flat after the seed is sown, it is advisable to use a fine rose or sprink- ler, so that the seed is not washed out of posi- tion. ‘The soil should be moist, not wet, from the surface to the bottom of the box. Cover- ing these boxes with glass and then paper will prevent evaporation and this in turn will mean less watering. ‘Too much water lessens the - vitality of the seed and impairs the growth of the seedling. It also has a tendency to de- velop a green scum over the surface of the seed bed which is most dangerous, causing many of the young plants to decay. After the young plants are transferred to the first pot, which is small, little water is required, but the growing seedling should never suffer from drought. In supplying water to larger pots be careful not to wash out the soil, which is often done in the center of the pot and the roots around the stem of the plant are exposed. After the water has drained thoroughly into the soil it is 33 HOUSE PLANTS a good practice to stir the surface with a fork or stick, but do not go deep or the roots near the surface will be injured. The main aim in watering is to get the mois- ture to the roots and this must be done with Fic. 14—Waterine Ports A, practical watering pot, especially for seed beds; B, rose to be placed on the spout of the watering pot so as to distribute the water like rain; C, fancy watering pot. care. Water should not be allowed to stand in vessels in which the pot is placed, though fine seed sown in pots are often watered by plunging the pot in water and allowing the moisture to enter from below. This is a good 34 WATERING practice with begonia or calceolaria seed. In the case of ferns and other plants standing in a jardiniere for several weeks the water becomes stagnant, the air about the pot foul and in gen- eral the plant will soon take on a yellow ap- pearance, sicken and often die. In watering the plants with liquid cow manure the solution should be very weak, like weak tea. Water on days when the room may be ventilated, and shortly after applying the liquid to the soil stir the surface and there will be little or no odor such as might be expected. Never allow the manure water to come in contact with the foliage. The mixture should stand for a few days before applying and then be applied only in limited quantities. : In the summer plants are best watered in the evening. The open windows will allow the dews or moisture to enter and the water gradu- ally works its way into the soil. Pots dry out quickly in the wind or a draft, especially when the air is hot and dry. Never wet the foliage in the summer when the sun is high. 35 HOUSE PLANTS In winter it is best to water the plants in the morning and on bright days, if possible, so that the foliage may become dry before night. This is not always possible where the rooms are kept warm and dry; in this case care should be exercised not to wet the foliage on dull days, for this carelessness might breed disease. Hanging baskets suffer from lack of mois- ture more than any other decoration we have introduced among home-grown plants. The air circulating about the entire surface makes frequent watering necessary, especially where the basket is exposed to the sun. ‘The most practical method is to plunge the entire basket in water for a half-hour and allow the water to work toward the center from all parts. Where the lowering of the basket is not practical the tin can method may be employed. Place in the center of the basket a narrow can per- forated with holes, fill the can with water and let it seep into the soil. The surface may be watered successfully by applying the water slowly and allowing it to work into the soil. 36 WATERING Window boxes often suffer from lack of proper moisture. Be sure the water reaches the roots as indicated by the water escaping drop by drop from the drainage holes in the bottom of the box. As soon as the drip begins stop watering. Different plants require various applications of water. The fuchsia or geranium can stand a greater amount of moisture than palms, while the cactus, being a native of hot dry climates, requires but little watering. After a time the amateur florist feels the needs of the plants on looking at them; they become so much a part of his life that the plants appeal to his senses, and after several years of practice and close observation various plants exposed to different amounts of light will receive the proper attention, because the heart answers to the plants’ needs. CHAPTER VI NATURAL AND CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS STABLE manures are the most desirable for they not only add fertilizer or plant food to the soil but they generally change its physical con- dition. If stable manures are kept moist, pro- tected from the open air and never allowed to burn, which causes horse manure to turn a slate color, they will always be a benefit to the soil. See chapter on Soils, page 19. Never plant a seedling or cutting in a large pot filled with richly manured soil, for it will act on the plant as beefsteak would if given to a tiny baby at every meal. The child will soon grow sick; so does the plant. After plants are well established there is no fertilizer more desirable than liquid cow ma- nure. Plunge a half-barrel in some out-of-the- way place and put in soft cow manure; add 38 FERTILIZERS water and allow it to stand for two days. Cover the barrel in order to keep out insects which might breed in it. Dilute the liquid so that it looks like very weak tea and apply at intervals as advised. After the liquid has set- tled and the soil is not very wet, stir with a small flat stick. This liquid manure is also fine for sweet peas and garden vegetables like to- matoes after the small fruits are formed. Manure gathered from a cow pasture after several weeks’ exposure to the elements and chopped up fine makes a most satisfactory top dressing for pot plants. Commercial ferti- lizers should be the last resort in the culture of pot plants, with the one exception, bone meal, which is a most reliable fertilizer when immediate results are not required. If mixed with soil or manure the plant food is slowly liberated, so that good results are realized dur- ing the entire season. There are several grades of bone fertilizer: A, coarse cracked; B, coarse ground; C, bone meal finely ground, sometimes called bone dust. 39 HOUSE PEANTS This last grade is most satisfactory when ap- plied to the surface of the soil and worked in, | while the coarse ground is best for compost heaps. Tankage is sometimes applied to rose soil and is found satisfactory. If your plants grow sickly and yellow, other things being right, it is a notice from the plant that more food is needed. A little pinch of nitrate of soda in a cup of water applied to each pot will bring the plants back to health; and it is well at this time to work in a little bone dust. A large application of nitrate of soda will kill the plant, so apply sparingly, being careful not to wet the leaves. There are many patent fertilizers or medi- cines for the soil, mostly made up of nitrate of soda, some of them very satisfactory. Thompson’s Chrysanthemum Manure and also Fertilene are desirable for chrysanthemum culture. Mak Gro is an odorless plant food particu- larly adapted for house plants. A one-pound 40 FERTILIZERS box is enough for application to fifty 4-inch pots. Macbell’s Plant Food is a highly concen- trated chemical fertilizer for house plants. Bowker’s Plant Food is odorless and ex- quisitely fine for sturdy plants. Ammonia is sometimes used to feed palms and other plants. It is not a true plant food and should not be used. It simply stimulates the plant to greater activity, but gives it nothing to build on. Feed your plants as you would the human family. Study their needs, listen with your eyes to their calls and as they grow older, more and coarser food may be given to them, as in the case of the chrysanthemum. Never overfeed and never starve your plants; both are poor practices. CHAPTER VII SPRAYING OR SYRINGING NATURE sprays or washes the faces and bod- ies of her children with the rain, removing any foreign matter from flower, foliage or stem, and how fresh the flowers look after a shower! Potted plants in the house are in an unnatural condition and we must act as agents to direct the elements as nearly as possible to Nature’s way; therefore an occasional spraying or syringing is most desirable for house plants. Dust is an enemy to the plants. It clogs the pores of the leaves. Plants with a hairy or rough foliage, like the geranium or heliotrope, should be covered with newspapers, sheets, etc., while sweeping is being done, except where a carpet sweeper or a vacuum cleaner is used. In winter spray the plants with a parlor syringe, an elastic sprinkler. Use water with 42 SPRAYING OR SYRINGING the chill taken off, apply in the morning and only on bright days. Dipping a whisk broom into the water and sprinkling the plants is an awkward method and not at all satisfactory because the spray is not fine enough and it is not applied with sufficient force to dislodge insects or remove dust. Spray the under side of the leaves as well as the upper side. I have devised a bath tub and you can make one. Surround a large pan by a framework lined with oilcloth. Place the plant in the pan and spray. You make no spots on the glass or wall, and there is no dan- ger of chilling the plant as when removing it to another room. After plants are returned to the window and one side is dry, turn the pot so that the moist side may be exposed to the sunshine. Where it is possible without doing damage to the woodwork or paper, spray the plants, pots and sills on bright days. ‘The moisture about the plants has a tendency to stimulate a luxuriant growth. 43 HOUSE PLANTS Plants should never be placed out-of-doors during a cold rain in the fall. It is just as uncomfortable for the plant and just as peril- eee tM ie at LA hip LE LE: AA L ee Yl fp7 . NAN =. AYN ‘\ SAN AN, W\ \\ A) ile -, ' WAZ LE i GF WZ WALLEZ weer (ZZ ZZ LB Hp ~-C ===> Fic. 15.—Ftower Batu Tus Diagram showing bath tub in which to spray house plants. A, open front; B, depth of pan, 4 inches; C, width of pan, 4 ft. square; D, oil cloth on three sides, 314 ft. high; E, portable frame 4 ft. high inside of pan. Oil cloth should reach the bottom of pan to prevent dripping of water on the floor. ous, as it would be for yourself to stand in the shower unprotected. For most plants the temperature of the room should be from 65° to 75° F. before the bath. 4A SPRAYING OR SYRINGING The proper spraying or syringing of plants with clean water dislodges many insects, re- moves dust and stimulates a healthy growth. Judgment must be used when to spray but it is a good practice to spray once a week dur- ing the winter if the weather will permit and every day during the late spring and summer. The leaves are the lungs of the plant and if these are clogged with dust, the plant catches cold, sickens and dies. A bath to a plant is as necessary to its health as a bath is to the health of a human being. CHAPTER VIII DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL Ir is impossible in the limited space of this little book to go into detail regarding the hab- its of the organisms causing disease or into the study of the many diseases that attack plants, but we may simply refer to causes and possible control. There are two types of fungi common to house plants: the fungus which develops and covers the surface of the foliage, like the downy mildew on the rose; and the fungus which causes the breaking down of the cells of the plant, finally promoting decay. Bacterial diseases are not so common to house plants. The fungus is propagated by means of spores, which are not unlike the seed of flower- ing plants, and they need air, moisture and heat to germinate. The little white root-like 46 DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL parts (mycelium) penetrate the cells or cover the surface, causing the plant to suffer because the green coloring matter is destroyed and the food supply is shut off. The only method of A B Fic. 16—Rosr Leaves Arrackep BY Downy MILDEW A, Diseased leaf; B, a perfect leaf. control is to prevent these spores from germi- nating, and they should be checked before much damage is done. This check or control consists in covering the foliage with a liquid AZ HOUSE PLANTS (Bordeaux mixture) which coats the foliage with a thin layer of copper and prevents the germinating spore from penetrating the cell. Another control consists in dusting the foliage f Fie. 17.—SuLpHuR AND SPRAYERS Apparatus and material for the control of rose mildew. A, dust sprayer, $.50; B, flowers of sulphur; C, dust sprayer, $.25. with sulphur, which destroys the young fungi as soon as they start growth. There are many causes for disease, and these 48 DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL should be removed as far as possible. The amateur is sometimes overzealous in feeding the plant. These “plant banquets” cause Fic. 18.—MateriaL AND EQUIPMENT FOR CONTROLLING INSECTS AND DISEASE For chewing insects and fungus diseases, three tablespoonfuls to a pail of water. loss of vitality and develop an abnormal growth of weak sickly shoots and foliage which is subject to an attack from disease. Over- 49 HOUSE PLANTS watering will sicken the roots and so the plant weakens. Drought is the other extreme that tends to cause the breaking up or shriveling of cells and opens the way for disease. An over- supply of moisture often tends to make the soil impure and sour. In this case shake off the old soil, prune back the top of the plant and cut away the diseased roots, repot in a mod- erately rich soil and control external conditions until the plant finally regains normal growth. An excess of heat is one of the greatest drawbacks, the plant becoming weak and ex- posed to disease. Gas and draught cause the breathing organs to weaken and the lungs of the plant in the leaf become clogged and diseased. Earthworms at the roots are a torment to the plant and may be controlled by placing the pot in water up to the surface of the soil. Keep adding water and the earthworm will be driven to the surface, where it may be caught and re- moved. Watering with lime water will also drive the worm out, but care must be exercised 530 DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL in the use of lime with certain plants. It is not a bad method to remove the entire ball of soil, locate the worm and remove it, for this Fic. 19.—Dust anp Liquip SPRAYS AND SPRAYERS A, powdered arsenate; B, dust sprayer; C, Paris green (for the control of chewing insects); D, Bordeaux mixture; E, liquid sprayer; F, lime sulphur (for control of fungus diseases). enemy of pot plants is often a forerunner of disease. Pots should be washed clean before using. It renders more easy the removal of the ball 51 HOUSE PLANTS when necessary and it is certainly more health- ful for the roots of the plant. There is often a flaw in the window glass, which causes a brown spot on the foliage. Do not mistake this for disease. Plants that have been in a shady place for some time may, if exposed suddenly to intense sunlight, show brown around the edges of the leaves, and this may encourage disease but in itself it is not a disease. The various common diseases have been de- scribed under the culture of individual plants. Bordeaux mixture and flowers of sulphur may be secured at any flower shop or drugstore and should be kept on hand. For such diseases as the rose mildew the plants should be dusted with the sulphur every dull day, as it is a pre- ventive rather than a cure. Treat your plants as you would a child; keep them clean, free from dust, and in giving them a bath do not have the water too cold nor allow the plant to stay wet for a long period. If you are in tune with your plants and your 52 DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL love for them is genuine, it will not be hard to detect any disorder that might appear, and the next thing to do is to search for knowledge of the disease in the many books written on the subject. CHAPTER IX INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL THERE are two types of insects which infest our window gardens: the sucking class, which pierce the cells of the plant and suck the sap, weakening the vitality of the plant and finally destroying it; the other the chewing class, which eat part of the root, stém, leaf or flower. The sucking insects, like the aphides, are controlled by dusting their bodies with tobacco powder or dust. The particles fill up their breathing organs and cause suffocation. The nicotine in the dust also burns tender parts of the body and causes death. Fumigation by burning tobacco stems is our effective method of control in the conservatory or greenhouse, but it is unavailable in the home, for the entire house would become foul and the necessary smoke to destroy this pest would be too great 54 INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL for the number of plants in the window. It should never be tried in the home. Another remedy is to spray with Black Leaf 40 as rec- Se Sl Car pe Fig. 20.—Puant Lick on GREEN Fry (APHIDES) ON THE YOUNG GROWING STEM or A VINCA VINE 55 HOUSE PLANTS ommended on the can or bottle. Care should be exercised not to get the solution on the wall- paper or furniture. Of the many insecti- Fic. 21.—Deratu To GREEN APHIDES OR PLANT LICE cides on the market most will do all they claim. The scale insects are harder to control. The best remedy is fir-tree oil, which should stand overnight, then the cream or scum be taken off 56 INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL and the solution diluted. A clean sponge is then used to anoint the plant and the insect is dislodged. Fish-oil soap has become a favor- TARR Fic. 22.—Tur Common Scae [Insect (LEcaNtuM HEMISPH2RICUM) on A Boston FERN 57 HOUSE PLANTS ite because of the easy method of application. Shave off bits of the soap and dissolve them A B Fic. 23.—PREPARATIONS FOR Sprayinc. A, Fisa-Om Soap; B, Rosin Fisa-Om Soap Both are good preparations to spray and wash foliage for scale insects, plant lice and mealy bugs. in boiling water, then dilute to make suds in a bath tub, laundry tub or bucket; then sub- merge the plant in the solution. 58 INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL The soil should be held in the pot by the left hand, or by spreading the fingers of both hands over it, inverting the pot and washing the Fic. 24.—Tue Wuaire Fry (ALEyropEs Crrrt aNnp A. NUBIFERA) on A Fucusta Lear plant. After the plant has had a thorough bath, allow it to stand for two or three hours and then spray with clean water. This treat- 59 HOUSE PLANTS ment will control plant lice, mealy bug, red spider and white fly. The red spider, which is a common pest, Fig. 25.—Sure Deatra to Wuitr FLy anp APHIDES To control green aphides, two tablespoonfuls to a pail of water. especially on plants that have been allowed to get too dry, is best controlled by a solution of tobaceo stems boiled until it is dark brown. Spray it with all the force available, directing 60 INSECTS AND THEIR CONTROL the spray to the under side of the foliage. This is also an advisable treatment for thrips. If the enemy you are to combat is a chewing insect like the rose beetle, spray the plant with arsenate of lead as recommended under the head of individual plants in chapters to follow. The paste and powder forms of arsenate have been found of equal value. Paris green has been extensively used, but if combined with water or_ even in the dust form it is apt to in- jure the foliage. Care must be taken in the application of any poison to plants. If insects attack your house plants the first thing to find out is how they secure their food; then apply the proper remedy. Do not put it off until tomorrow, for one must remember that insects are in business for their health, and this means that the greatest vigilance must be exercised even where the plants appear fairly clean. The lack of water, too much water, too much food develop a weak, tender growth; bad air, too little sunlight and general neglect will in- 61 HOUSE PLANTS vite these insect enemies to infest the window garden and in a short time it becomes a sor- rowful sight. Fic. 26—Mass or Meaty Bua (Pseupococcus Cirrt anp P. LoncIFIuis) ON A Coteus PLANT These dreaded enemies of our choice foliage and flowering plants steal into our gardens in a single night. Keep a constant watch! 62 CHAPTER X GENERAL PRINCIPLES ANDs METHODS IN PROPAGATION PLants may be multiplied in various ways: seeds (pansies); spores (fungi, mosses and ferns); stem cuttings (geraniums) ; suckers (chrysanthemums) ; leaf cuttings (rex begonia and gloxinia) ; divisions (asparagus sprengeri plants) ; root cuttings (blackberry) ; budding (peach trees) ; grafting (apple trees). In the propagation of plants by seed flat boxes are generally used four inches deep and two feet square. The bottom of the box is cov- ered with decayed sod and then filled to within half an inch of the top with clean, sifted garden loam, free from manure. ‘The seeds are scat- tered broadcast and pressed into the soil, then covered with clean sand to the depth of one- half to two-thirds the diameter of the seed, 63 HOUSE PLANTS watered carefully, covered with glass and put in a warm place. With both seed and cuttings regular and Fic. 27.—INTERIOR OF A STEM A, stem; B, hollow pith; C, thick growing tissue (cambium layer); D, cut through growing tissue; E, node. perpetual heat, which is not easy to secure in the home, but possible in the conservatory, is of great advantage. Shade the box with paper 64 METHODS IN PROPAGATION until the seeds germinate, to prevent drying off. Too much watering weakens vitality. Never allow the seed to germinate and then dry out. Keep the seed bed always moist but Fic. 28.—A Sirtine Pan, Fiat, AND TAMPER FOR THE PROPAGATION oF PLANTS FROM SEED never wet. With rare exceptions it is not ad- visable to soak the seed overnight; it should be planted in the dormant state in the soil. After the seedlings reach a height so that they can be easily handled transfer them to a small pot. 65 HOUSE PLANTS In the case of ferns I have known amateurs to propagate them successfully from spores. Fill a six-inch pot with finely sifted soil, cover Fic. 29.—DousLr PropaGatinG Por A, drainage hole; B, crock to promote drainage; C, rough material; D, gravel; E, crock pot filled with water; F, clean sand; G, cutting; H, surface of soil; I, leaves cut in half to prevent transpiration (the pot in the center should be made of clay and plaster of Paris); N, cork filled with holes. the surface with sifted earth about a quarter of an inch in depth. Take a frond of fern having the brownish-black clusters on the under side, 66 METHODS IN PROPAGATION or in strips along the margin. If the clus- ters are ripe gently shake the frond, allowing the apparent powdery substance to be scat- tered over the soil. Press down lightly, cover with glass and place the pot in a vessel partly filled with water so that the seed may be wa- tered from below. Never allow the surface of the soil to get dry. Allow the pot to stand in the vessel only while watering. Remove to a warm shady place. The tiny ferns are extremely tender and difficult to start, but a trial at this method of propagation is fasci- nating. Stem cuttings are commonly used in the propagation of home-grown plants. It is of the greatest importance to have a sharp knife. Cuttings in general should not be over three to four inches in length. Cut smoothly at the node where the leaf connects with the stem, because the tissue is thicker at this point than at any other and there is also more growing tissue exposed. Remove the leaves with a knife; never break them, for this will injure the stem. The top leaves should 67 HOUSE PLANTS be cut in half to prevent evaporation of mois- ture from them. Cuttings should always be made from young _———_ Fic. 30.—Homr-MAaDE PropaGaTION BED Note black pan above the lamp to retain water which aids in keeping moisture in the soil. vigorous wood. In old wood the cells are hard- ened and roots seldom form. Place the cut- tings in clean sand, never pushing the cutting in the sand, as this will injure the wounded 68 METHODS IN PROPAGATION tissue and cause decay. Fit the sand tightly about the cutting and give a good watering. Fie. 31.—Propacation Bep COMPLETE Cloth or paper may be placed as shown in photograph in order to keep the heat in. Bottom heat is of the greatest importance for seed and propagating beds to insure a better growth. Shade the cuttings from the sun by cheese- cloth or newspapers for three to six days, so 69 HOUSE PLANTS that they do not lose vitality from wilting. After the roots are formed remove to small pots of earth, because there is little or no food in the sand, and after the root system is formed the roots search for food and moisture which is found in the soil. All cuttings are not made alike. The sand in a cutting bed should always be firm, never allowed to dry out, moist but never wet. The pot method is also very satisfactory. Leaf cut- tings are commonly used to make plants like the begonia. Cuts should be made across vari- ous well-developed veins of the leaf, the leaf fitted, bottom side down, on the surface of the sand. It may be pinned down with hairpins or toothpicks. Small pieces of the leaf con- taining a vein, thick end planted in the soil, are also satisfactory. In the case of gloxinia the leaf is planted in the sand with the stem covered. Roots form on the stem and a young plant appears. I should not advise bell jars or glass dishes placed over the cuttings unless they are re- 70 METHODS IN PROPAGATION moved part of the day. ‘The cuttings require clean air to breath and they thrive much better when this is supplied. Sand is used in propagating cuttings be- Fic. 32.—A Propacatina Brep cause it is practically free from fungus growths. The various plants described in the following pages have their favorite methods of propaga- tion as indicated below: SEED CUTTINGS Chinese primrose. Geraniums. Abutillon. Flowering begonias. (e HOUSE PLANTS SEED CUTTINGS Cineraria. Chrysanthemums. Cyclamen. Carnations. Petunia. Fuchsias. Lobelia. Heliotrope. Flowering begonia. Pelargonium. Rose. Stevia. Vinca. English ivy. LEAF CUTTINGS Gloxinia. Rex begonia. Lilac. Rose—not practical. PLANTS PROPAGATED BY DIVIDING THE OLD PLANT, LEAV- ING ROOTS ON BOTH DIVISIONS Boston fern. Vinca. Saxifraga. Asparagus sprangeri. Asparagus plumosus. CHAPTER XI BULB CULTURE SEPTEMBER is the month when song gives place to silence and the moon of the first frost awakens a desire to renew the summer, and there is nothing that will satisfy this longing so well as the branch of gardening which is peculiar to itself, the forcing of bulbs. To get perfection in the bloom of most of our common bulbs they should be secured in September. Of course the time for blooming depends on various conditions—variety of bulbs, vigor, soil used, method of handling, temperature and watering—but the following directions may be considered as general. It is always advisable to use very rich soil but never with fresh manure. After placing a bit of crock over the hole in the bottom of the pot and an inch of well-rotted cow manure, 73 HOUSE PLANTS then some good compost soil, place the bulb the proper depth in a little sand, cover with soil and firm by striking the bottom of the pot on eat, >. SF es ee RAS eS oe oleae wetmrsse e Daze iy sP\ee sitctn tenes Bhd ASie fives Tos Sots . > . matty CAR ©,6 Ce eee . . "*. O90 2a . we Aram yrs 4 - " sire BAST ie ste ; z Si 52 ie ae Noe CR ana Be ee o, hw ee Pe hee . “ee Sian Set 2 - CT afew ok ie Gai +. aS id ee . : Sy ies: WARP MTG iai owe gee em cae wae oo rine eNe races} iene 2m es Cra ’ = —= — SS i ari p : A Sat - = a —=— =a = ae 7 < — @ A < a Fic. 33.—D1acram SHowine How to Por ann Pit BULBS A, three inches of coarse ashes; B, pots containing bulbs; C, scattering of straw over pots; D, sand; E, straw or leaves; F, brush to prevent straw from blowing away; S, surface of soil. some object. Then store away in a cool place until a good root system has been developed. It is sometimes well to store out of doors. Dig a trench in the garden, place the pots below the 7A BULB CULTURE frost line, with about an inch of ashes beneath the pot. The soil in the pot should be moist but not wet. Cover the pots four to five inches - Fic. 34.—Tappine Epce or Pot 1x Orper To REMOVE SOIL FROM Pot with sand and above this, straw. Put branches loosely over the straw to prevent it from blow- ing away. After the given period the pots may 75 HOUSE PLANTS be easily removed. Do not allow bulbs or soil in pots to freeze while removing, as it would be a serious check to growth. Another method [re aaaeel Fic. 35.—Posrtion or HANp OVER Sort IN ORDER Not TO DistuRB THE Root SYSTEM is to clean out the hotbed and treat it as in previous method. Some use ashes to cover the pots. 76 BULB CULTURE Another method is to place the bulbs in a cool cellar and cover with soil or straw, but in Fig. 36.—A Brautirutty DrveLorep Root SystTEM Healthy and vigorous. Note the position of the hand while examin- ing the roots. this case the soil should be examined and if dry given sufficient water. Never store near a fur- 717 HOUSE PLANTS nace or where there is any gas. Pots should always be placed on soil and never on a shelf, Fie. 37.—Metuop or Restorinc THE BALu Place the pot completely over the ball of earth and roots before inverting the plant right side up. to develop root systems. Most of the Dutch bulbs require from six to seven weeks in the dark in order to develop a sufficient root sys- 78 BULB CULTURE tem to support a perfect flower. After a given period examine the root system by knocking out the ball of earth (Fig. 34), hold- ing the hand over the surface of the soil (Fig. 35), and with the other hold the pot, striking the edge of the pot on some object. If the root system is well developed (Fig. 36) and the tips of the leaves are poking through the soil, place the pot over the roots without moving the ball (Fig. 37), and then turn right side up. Bring the bulb to light, feed and care for it, stirring the soil over the surface of the pot if a green moss appears. Never allow the pot to stand in a vessel containing water, or the roots will decay and the bulb rot. The bulbs placed in trenches require only one watering when placed. No other treat- ment is necessary until removed to the light. When bulbs are raised in water, such as the Chinese lily, which is always acceptable in a home, take care never to have an excess of heat or dry air. This type of plant does best where there is a great deal of moisture in the air. 79 Fic. 38.—Hyacinta with A WELL DreveLorep Roor SystTEM Note growth of flower stem even with tips of leaves. In three weeks the flower will be two to three inches above the leaves. 80 BULB CULTURE Bulbs should never be placed in a draft or in a room where there is any gas, or the flower will bloom close to the soil and snug to the short leaves. Especially be careful when the ~ bulb is in bloom, for the flower is injured by gas or direct rays of the sun. To have the bloom last keep it in a cool place. If the bloom comes sooner than desired store in a dark cool room, 40° F., and change to higher tempera- tures gradually. The only insect of great danger to the plant is the plant louse (aphis) destroyed by dusting with Pyrethrum or tobacco dust. It is never advisable to hold the bulbs over for another year of house culture. They may be planted in the garden, but for forcing, fresh vigorous bulbs should be secured each year. HYACINTH Nat. Ord. Lilacee The origin of this flower is supposed to date back to the fabulists of antiquity. Hyacinthus, a boy favored 81 HOUSE PLANTS by the gods, was supposed to be the son of a Spartan king and a great favorite of Apollo, who while pitching a game of quoits first observed Zephyrus’ envy. This envious spirit directed one of the quoits, which struck the head of Hyacinthus and killed him. It was con- cluded that Apollo transformed the body of his favorite into a flower, and so the origin of hyacinths. This flower is native to the Mediterranean region. It was known back in the time of Vespasian and mentioned by Dioscorides. It was introduced into England about 1596. There are more than four thousand varieties de- veloped since 1629. Its rich fragrance, varied color and graceful beauty lends a charm to the home or conserva- tory. The best results are realized where the fol- lowing soil table is followed: Decayed sod chopped fine with garden loam. .21% parts Shreddedcow manures. 2.9 oJ. .< «peer 1 part Sand .2acrset cee 5 eee ee 1% part Place a little cow manure, well decayed, in the bottom of the pot and then sand directly under the bulb. One to three bulbs may be placed in a six- inch pot. A ten-inch pan-shaped pot with six bulbs gives great satisfaction. 82 BULB CULTURE Keep the soil moist, but never wet, and after the leaves are well developed give a little weak liquid cow manure every two weeks or about Fic. 39.—SreveraL WELL DEVELOPED BLooms or THE HYACINTH IN A Pan A strong root system must be developed while in storage in order to - get such results in this limited amount of soil. half a spoonful of nitrate of soda dissolved in a cup of water. The bulb should be placed one and a half inches below the surface, then stored 83 IN A THREE- Fic. 40.—TuHrReE Wett DerveLtopep HyacintHs QUARTER-SIZED Por 84 BULB CULTURE for from six to eight weeks in order to develop the best root system. On bringing the bulb to light the tempera- ture should be about 50°, slowly rising to 65°. Fig. 41—A Hyacinta Bute with a Wet Devetorep Root SysTtEM IN A BuLB JAR Note that bud has not started. 85 HOUSE PLANTS With this treatment the bulb should produce a fine bloom ten to twelve weeks after remov- ing to the light. Fic. 42.—Hyacintu Wuicu Has Been Given too Mucn WatTER AND Foop Note the weakened condition of the foliage. Hyacinths may also be raised in a glass bulb jar. The color of this jar does not affect the 86 BULB CULTURE growth of the roots. Keep the jar in a dark place for a week and bring to the light. Keep the water in touch with the bulb and do not change the water in the jar. The tiny ‘green growths appearing in the water die, de- cay, and become food for the plant. Raise the bulb slightly, just enough to admit sufficient Croton water so that the bulb rests in it. Never use spring water. There are many satisfactory varieties, but the following may aid in selection: For the glass jar varieties developed in water: Bvenllipot, rolls) Ras gicccigefateress se) e036 ~ » = golden ReeLRUMe Pad is eeanciehe viele age wee fs ss pink (COTO OMI [nee bright blue HE UBIUC CEC PRIN ut soe Ss. ans se white RUOIGCES HES Cl reer rete teks 6 t.esl ac od «Sie les red asta Maxim aes hisalate « ¥ en aes hi ) 36 his at Aaa STAT O0009e08s5ea5