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HOW TO

BREAK, EDUCATE AND HANDLE
THE HORSE

BOK JHE USESUOF,ZEVERY DAY ‘LIFE.

Complete instructions for breaking and educating colts,
teaching horses to drive, and for use under the saddle,
together with many instructions which have never before
becn published, and which are the result of the author's
experience covering a period of twenty years.

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PROF. WM. MULLEN.

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CHICAGO.
PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR.
PRICE $1.00.

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M MULLE

PROFESSOR WILLIA

AUTHOR'S ANNOUNCEMENT.

In preparing the subject-matter for this modest
volume, the author has not proceeded upon
theory, but has attempted to present in the lan-
guage of the common, though educated people,
practical methods for handling horses. He has
no secret means for breaking colts, and educating
them, but bases his work on the dictates of com-
mon sense.

Any man, woman, boy or girl, endowed by
nature with a love for the horse, can learn to
handle him, either to drive or ride. Almost
every child can be educated, by contact with
horses, to make them do his bidding. Every
man in civilization has more or less love for the
horse. If to this love is added a practical educa-
tion in handling the horse then every person can
be made a thorough horseman. To accomplish
that object is the aim of the author.

He has tried to make his meaning plain in
every instance, but especially desires to say to
his readers that while they must not conquer
through fear, no horse can be successfully man-
aged unless the person who handles him is mas-
ter at all times. Remember this, but do not
forget that even with a horse, kind treatment
turns away wrath.

$

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES.

This I find the most successful method in
breaking Mustangs, the mountain horse of Ne-
vada, or the wild horses that come from Texas
or other western states that are of a sulky dis-
position. Some of these horses are very hard to
break by ‘“‘head and tail” or other methods used,
but this I have found most successful, never
having failed where it has been used.

After having well halter broke the Mustang,
tie his head to his tail and when he stops turn-
ing, which will be in a very few minutes, get the
saddle on him, standing on the same side that
his head is tied to, keeping hold of the halter in
the hand next to the head and dropping the
saddle over the back with the other. This sad-
dle should have a cinch and no buckles, having
a long strap to tie it up with, with an iron
thimble on each side and a ring in the center of
the girth. Now reach under and catch the cinch
with the right hand, at the same time holding
the cinch strap. When you have got the cinch
you may then let go of his head with the other
hand and fasten the saddle on. Although a
cinch takes a little longer to put on, yet it is
much more handy and safe, never breaking, even

sel, Se

4 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES.

if the horse should start to turn before you get
it fast; one turn will hold the saddle together.
You may let the horse go if you wish, that is,
let it turn and not try to cinch up any more
until the animal stops, then cinch the saddle up
well, but not too tight. Take your strap hob-
bles and put on the front pasterns. This is done
by tying a piece of light rope in the thimble
which is in one end of the hobble and throwing
it through the two front legs (that is, if he is
wild and will not allow the front legs touched),
picking it up and putting the rope through the
other end, which will bring the hobble on the
leg. Slip it down to the proper place just above
the hoof, then, put the other one on in the same
way, fastening a rope in the thimble on the sad-
dle with two half hitches or an eye may be
spliced in the rope and put through so that it
cannot come loose unless taken out. Put it
down through the thimble on the hobble on the
same side, then up and through the ring in the
center of the girth down to the thimble in the
other hobble, and up to the thimble on the op-
posite side of the saddle, having the end running
back.

Now, if you have a closed corral you need no
helper, but, if not, you will require a helper who
will lead the horse on a long rope just where
you want him; but if the ground is not very soft,
before beginning to throw him, put on a pair of

.
{

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 5

knee pads or boots. If he is too wild take him
on some straw and drop him a few times until
he will allow you to put the boots on. These
boots should be made out of something thick
and soft and may be covered with leather with
straps, which should be put on very tightly, to
fasten above the knee, and straps below the
knee which should be left loose so as not to in-
terfere with his action. When you drop him, do
not hold him on his knees but allow him to
spring right up on his feet. If he is inclined to
sulk and you hold him on his knees he will lie
down and you can do nothing with him until
the sulk is over; but he may be dropped on his
knees and he will continue to fight on finding
himself loose enough to spring to his feet. Every
time you drop him on his knees say “whoa.”
This will teach him that this word means to
stop. When he stops fighting, you may try him
by taking a pole and touching him all over. If
he endeavors to get away from it, drop him on
his knees. If your horse is high-strung, spirited
or nervous when you drop him on his knees,
hold him there, but his knees must be well
padded for he is likely to raise himself ten or
twelve times before he stops. Then draw his
head back to one side and hold him until he will
lie down, but, if fighting too hard, let him up
again, and repeat, but do not allow him to go
too far. If possible, keep him in the same spot.

6 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES.

This will give you better success than letting
him jump far. If he lies down, pull his head
back to the saddle and throw him on his side.
If he tries to rise, draw his head back again;
this will throw him over on his side. Repeat
this until he will not try to raise his head from
the ground, then rub his head, neck and other
parts of his body with the hand, touching the
hind feet and legs, drawing them up and plac-
ing them back, always standing at his back, and
if he tries to get up, draw his head back. He
has learned to give up to you and at the least
pull on the halter, will get discouraged and lie
still. Then, take a blanket and touch him all
over with that, drawing it through his legs,
spreading it over him, laying it on his head and
neck. When he will lie still and allow this to
be done, then let him up and try him with the
blanket, but only on the side where it has
touched him. If he is afraid of it, lay him down
again by dropping him on his knees and draw-
ing his head on the same side as before; he will
lie down in the same position. Repeat with the
blanket again and when he shows no sign of fear,
let him up and try him again. If he will not
stand, repeat, only by dropping him on_ his
knees. Repeat this until he will allow the blan-
ket to touch any part of that side of him. Now
drop him on his knees and draw his head to the
other side. By pressing against his shoulder, he

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 7

will go down on the opposite side. Repeat as
before by rubbing, handling his feet and legs and
using the blanket, letting him up and putting
him to test, and if quiet lay him down again.
Now, sit on him and pat him all over. If you
wish to get him accustomed to noise, you may
use any instrument you wish, beginning as softly
as- you can and gradually increasing until the
noise is as loud as you desire, such as shrieks,
whistles, drums, tin pans, fire crackers or a gun.
Then let him up, jump on his back and rub him.
Now he may be taught to turn and pull in the
cart as in the former methods, but you can go
further with him in the first lesson than with
the horse that will sulk; also his mouth must be
attended to, that is, the wolf teeth and sharp
edges taken off and gums well syringed out
every day with alum lotion; using the same bit
and harness as in the first method when he has
become cheerful, but he must be driven like-
wise in any place that he will be in the habit of
going. A blind bridle may be used after the
fourth or fifth day. These blinds must be large
so as not to interfere with the eye, well open in
front so as to give him full view of everything
in front of him and to see objects passing by on
either side, but, with a careful driver, I would
recommend an open bridle to be used for one
month, when either bridle could be used with
safety at any time that a change may be made.

8 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES.

After teaching him to turn and pull and he
has become cheerful, you may put a check on,
but only an elastic check should be used, as
this class of horse fights checks very much and
learn the habit of throwing themselves down or
rearing up and falling over, so do not be in a
hurry to check them. See that the mouth its
not sore when the check is put on for the first
time.

Being very hardy and tough range-bred
horses may be put right to work after they have
been taught to pull and turn. They will not shy
at anything, such as street cars, electric cars or
steam engines; in fact, anything which would
cause other horses to be very much frightened
they will take no notice of if taken on the
streets the second or third day and put to work,
but you must be careful not to get them sore,
as they will become ugly and cause you more
trouble. I usually break these in five days. The
first day to halter. The second day teaching
them to pull and turn and sometimes hitch
them while in the cart to a post. The third
day driving them on the street, hitching them
to posts so as to teach them to stand while
hitched, and rehearsing them in turning. The
fourth day, hitching them to a four-wheeled
wagon, generally a retail butcher’s, milk or gro-
cery wagon. The fifth day instructing the
driver how to handle them, showing him that

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES. 9

the horse is gentle and not to be afraid of giv-
ing him instructions in how to pick up the feet
or put on the harness, or how to handle the
reins while driving, as a great many drivers soon
break the tender mouth, and it becoming sore,
makes the colt ugly, so it is necessary to drive
him with a light hand and a loose rein.

Now he may be taught to back with a cord
on his nose, beginning this on the third day,
finishing with the last lesson on the fifth day,
each day after he has come from his drive. After
this, he is well broken for street work,. and if
handled kindly will be as gentle as a native
horse; in fact will have no habits such as shy-
ing, etc., that the native horse has.

A horse broken by either of these methods
can be driven double without any trouble. You
may hitch him up on the lead of the team or on
the pole and he will pull, turn, back or stop
when called to. A heavy draft horse is better
worked by the head and tail, but, if you do wish
to work him, you will not have to drop him
very many times until he will stand and allow
you to do anything you wish with him, and after
teaching him to turn and pull the first time, he
may be taken right out on the road and given
half an hour or more of slow work, not asking
him to leave a walk. In repeating his lesson the
second day, he may be worked for two or three

Io HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HOBBLES.

hours, and after his wolf teeth and edges of his
grinders have been attended to he may be al-
lowed to rest.

If you wash his shoulders with lotions to
harden them, you may put him right to work
either single or double in a wagon, plow or any
place you wish. A horse that has to do hard
work, ought to be allowed to carry his head
naturally, but if a check is put upon him he can-
not do it and work as well.

‘adOu LOOX AHL

LO LEACH A: - HORSESLO: PARK,

This is a very tractable gait for a lady’s saddle
horse. Not very common as yet, but easily
taught. A horse may be taught to park in two
weeks by any lady who is a real horsewoman.

Tap one of the legs below the knee with the
butt end of the whip, and when he raises his foot
pet him for it, each time taking hold of the foot
and holding it up. First make him lift one foot
and then the other. If you wish him to learn
this quickly, give him a piece of sugar. After
he has learned to raise his foot at the tap, take
hold of it in front of him so that he will be com-
pelled to extend his arm. By petting and en-
couraging him, he will soon learn that you want
him to extend his foot. Then take one leg from
him and then the other. The next lesson will
be in stepping forward. After tapping on his
leg, hold it in your hand and pull on the halter
strap so as to force him one step ahead. When
he steps, put the foot down and pet him. Then
pick up the other foot, make him step one step
ahead, pet him again, and give him enough
practice so he will do this easily. In the next
lesson, give him two steps in succession, first
one foot and then the other, and so increase

Il

I2 TO TEACH A HORSE TO PARK.

until he will take nine or ten steps with your
aid. He will soon learn to do this himself by
just holding your hand in the act of receiving
the foot, but not taking it. This you must
make him do slowly, and hold his foot up as
Jong as you hold your hand down in the act of
receiving it, so that you may direct the time.
Then compel him to raise his foot from the
shoulder. This will give him a high step. After
having had sufficient practice at this, he will do
it readily from the act of holding a whip in
front of him while walking by his side. You
may get on his back and tap him on the leg that
you want him to raise, and when he raises it, it
matters not how slowly, pet him for it. Then
drop the whip on the other side, tapping him on
the other leg and continue until you can get
him to raise his leg as high from the saddle as
when you are on the ground; then you may
urge him to take a step while the leg is up, and
then another, and another. When he has done
this. the work is complete and practice will
make him perfect.

Be

;

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEF

Using a double-rein bridle, stand on the left
side of the horse, facing the same way as he.
Reach under his head and take hold of the
snaffle-rein ring on the right side, and grasp the
curb rein with the left hand. Now pull apart, the
right hand in front, and the left hand back, and
as soon as he turns his head to the left, let go
of him and pet him. Then go on the right side,
turning the head to the right, in the same man-
ner. Each time you make him turn his head
make him take it further to each side until he
will turn it right back to his shoulder on either
side without moving his body. This should be
practiced until a slight pull on either snaffle-
rein will turn his head in opposite direction.
Now, stand on one side, with the snaffle-rein
over the neck on the opposite side. If standing
on the left side, hold the snaffle-rein in the right
hand and curb rein in the left hand. Speak to
him in order that he will step up, and as he steps
up pull lightly on the curb rein. This will teach
him to carry his head on one side while walking.
Allow him gradually to go to the right; this
will teach him to place the left foot always over
the right when stepping towards the right side.

13

14 HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEP.

When he has taken a few steps in this position,
stop him and pet him, giving him all the en-
couragement you possibly can. Now, go on
the right side, taking the left snaffle-rein over
the neck on the right side and hold the right
curb rein in the right hand. Urge him ahead
and draw the head slightly to the right by a
downward pull on the right curb rein. You
may press up against his shoulder so that when
he steps ahead he will step a little toward the
left at the same time. Repeat this several times,
caressing him each time he does as you wish.
When he kas gotten so he will carry his head
on either side while walking in front, you may
tap him on the hind part of either side. If
standing on the right side and urging him to
the left, reach behind you with your whip and
tap him on the right quarter. When he steps
over, pet him for it. Then go on the other side
and when he steps that way, pet him again.
Now you may stand in front, facing him, hold-
ing down on the left curb rein. Chirp to him
in order to lead him to your left and reaching
back with your whip, tap him on the left quarter
as in the act of stepping, he will step sideways
instead of in front. After each lesson always
encourage him. Repeat this on the other side
until he will go in a straight line, or form two
imaginary lines while going in either direction.

You may now get in the saddle, allow him to

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO SIDE-STEP. 15

start ahead straight, and after taking one step,
if you want him to step to the right, bring a
light pull on the left curb rein so as to bring
his head lightly toward the left, at the same
time urging him ahead. Then, reach back with
your whip on the left side and tap him on the
left quarter, and when he steps to the right, ease
on your rein, pet him and encourage him for
this. Repeat this on the other side. You will
find with a few lessons he will become quite
well trained and go as easily and freely to either
side when caéled upon.

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO TURN ON
EITHER FRONT OR HIND FEET.

After he has been trained to carry his head
on either side, as in the foregoing chapter,
“Teaching a horse to side-step,’” he may be
taught to turn on either front or hind feet. To
teach a horse to stand on almost the same spot
with his front feet, stand right at his head,
holding the left snaffle curb rein, reach back
with your whip and tap him on left quarter.
When he takes one step to the left with his hind
legs, stop and pet him. Now go to the right
side, take hold of right curb rein and touch him
with the whip on the right quarter until he will
take one step. After petting him for this, go
back to the left rein and repeat this lesson until
the horse will step either side and make a coni-
plete circle with his hind legs. Then you may
get in the saddle and repeat this until he will
remain in about the same spot with his front
feet and draw an imaginary circle with his hind
feet, either side.

Now, press against his right quarter and urge
him a little ahead, laying the reins over his neck
as in the act of turning under saddle gaits, en-
couraging him each time he steps over with his

16

‘
a
{

———

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO TURN. 17

front feet; repeat this step by step first on one
side and then the other until you can make a
complete circle with his front feet and hold him
on the spot by pressing with your crop or whip
on his quarter. If you wish to make a very
short turn, or a quick one, draw the reins over
the neck on the right side, give a tap with the
whip or crop on the left side. This will give
him a short turn to the left. Repeat this on the
other side and it will turn him to the right.

BS

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN.

Strap up the left front foot, take a piece of
soft rope about seven feet long, take the center
of it and wrap three times around the bony part
of the tail very near the end. Separate the hair
in three parts, allowing each end of the rope to
go with a bunch of hair and braid the hair up
in a three-strand plait. Make a half-hitch on
the end of the tail with each end of the rope;
this will keep the tail from unbraiding. Then
braid the tail up, forming a loop, and tie on the
bony part of the tail with the ends of the rope.
After tying, do not leave the ends long enough
to interfere when you are working with him.
Now, tie a ring in the loop of the tail with a
piece of rope, attach a jong soft cord to the
halter and take it on the right side, put it
through the ring, fasten to the tail and back
to the ring in the halter. Take hold of the rope
with both hands, standing between the head and
tail on the right side, making the horse turn
with you, and after he has turned several times
you may pull on the rope so as to bring his head
and tail together. Now overcome his balance
with a little jerk and he will go over on the left
side. This may be repeated until he will go

18

[
7
f
‘

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN. 19

down from the mere pulling of his head back
when his leg is tied up. You may repeat this
with either leg being tied up but, when the right
leg is tied up, the rope must be brought on the
left side. You must be careful and turn him
enough so that he will not struggle too much
when you go to throw him over. If a very
stubborn case, he may be turned very rapidly
before tying his leg up, and then turned a little
more just before throwing him. With this les-
son in four days time a horse can be taught to
lie down by the mere tapping on his leg, if he
is bright and intelligent.

+e

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE
DOWN WITH THE HOBBLES.

Use a harness saddle, the kind I have de-
scribed in ‘‘ Training colts to harness with hob-
bles.” After putting the saddle on with the
hobbles on the front pasterns, hold the rope in
one hand, standing at his side, and tap him on
his shin so that he will raise his feet. By pull-
ing on the rope it will bring his two feet under
him. His knees must be well padded, for the
first time he comes down on them if not pro-
tected, they will surely be broken. When he is
on his knees tie your rope to itself in the saddle
and if wishing to make him lie down on the
right side, stand at the left side at his shoulder
and draw his head back, at the same time press-
ing over on the shoulder. This will compel him
to go down on the right side, and if you wish
him to go down on the left side, you will stand
on the right side by his shoulder and pull his
head to that side, pressing on his shoulder. Re-
peat this until a slight pull on the rope of the
hobbles will make him go down. This will teach
a horse to lie down by a tap of the whip very
quickly, but they will plunge or lunge more, and
are more likely to hurt themselves than in the
former method of teaching them.

20

LAYING A HORSE DOWN.

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE WITH
ONE: STRAB EAST.

Girth a circingle around the horse, with a
strap coming up from the front feet under the
circingle with the other leg tied up. Stand on
the side of the horse close to the shoulder on
the same side as the strap on the foot, and press
against the shoulder so as to compel him to
raise the foot in order to catch his balance, and
when he does this, take the foot from under
him with the strap, which will bring him to his
knees. By drawing the head around to the side
and pressing on his shoulder you will compel
him to lie down.

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE DOWN
WITHOUT ANY RIGGING.

Tie up the left front foot, take him by the head
and tail on the right side and turn him until he
can hardly stand from dizziness. Then draw his
head back and press against his shoulder, he will
lie down. When he is falling press against his
hip so as to help him over. Repeat this a num-
ber of times and he will soon learn when you
press on his shoulder to go down on the knee of
the leg which is tied up, then draw the foot of
the other leg back, so as he will be on both
knees, when you will draw the head back and
press him down as in the former method.

21

HOW TO HOLD A HORSE DOWN
AFTER YOU HAVE LAID HIM
DOWN.

To teach him this when you have a rope be-
tween his head and tail, you simply draw his
head right back to his shoulder and then he can-
not get up. When he has ceased to struggle,
let his head loose so as to be in its natural po-
sition when lying down, standing ready with the
rope in your hand, and at the least sign of a
struggle draw his head back quickly, and this
will throw him back again. He may cause you
to repeat this very rapidly the first time he has
been laid down, but if you do not allow him to
get up until you have thoroughly conquered
him, you will save a great deal of time in not
only teaching him to lie down, but in teaching
him to stay down. You may stand at his
shoulders behind and draw his head back with
the halter strap, and thus teach him to remain
lying down, if you are quick enough.

22

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO STAND
ON AIS HIND LEGS:

After you have been training a horse, he may
be taught to stand up by the tap of the whip.
A few taps of the whip high on the front legs
at the same time saying “Up” will confuse him,
and not knowing what you want he will become
impatient and give a little jump. Give him a
piece of sugar and calm and quiet him. Repeat
this, each time paying him for what he does.
In the next lesson, swing your whip more in the
air at the same time saying, “Up,” and then as
in the act of hitting him on the front part,
causing him to jump again. When he has
jumped, or raised with his front legs, pet him
and reward him for it, each time getting him
higher and higher. It will require but a few
lessons when he will stand_up straight for you.
Now, to hold him there, simply keep irritating
him with the whip. Do not try to keep him too
long, but every time after letting him down
give him a piece of sugar so that he will know
he will be paid whenever he obeys you. He will
soon try to please you, it matters not how
difficult the circumstances may be. A real stub-
born case will necessitate putting a piece of cord

23

24 TEACH A HORSE TO STAND ON HIS HIND LEGS.

around his neck and through his mouth, making
a war bridle and jerking down on it. This will
cause him to rear for which you will pet him.
Do not give him too much in the first lesson,
because he may become sulky and your work
would be fruitless, but if he raises once or twice
without getting very angry, you have done well
and leave him alone for that day.

In his next lesson, you may start him with
your cord and if he raises readily, you may take
it from his mouth, put a bridle on him and ai-
tach the cord to the rings of the bridle, using
this instead of the cord on the mouth. After a
few lessons they may be increased, and when he
will stand up straight from the cord, you may
begin to use both cord and whip together; then
take the cord out and practice him with the
whip alone.

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO STAND
ON A BOX.

Secure a strong box, about twelve inches
high, lead the horse up to it, raise one foot on
the box and then take hold of the other, urg-
ing him ahead with the bridle until he has both
feet on the box. Pet him and give him a piece
of apple or sugar. Allow him to remain stand-
ing on the box for some little time, and then re-
peat. When he will get on the box readily for
you with his front feet, allow him to step either
side as you wish, and when he has confidence in
himself so that he will move the hind feet with-
out the front ones, coax him ahead on the box
until he is about ready to step up with the
hind legs. Then pick up a hind leg and place it
on for him, coaxing him so that he will pick the
other one up. Hold him on the box, pet him
and give him something to eat. Repeat this
until he will readily get on the box with all four
feet. Then, make the box shorter and practice
him, and still shorter until he will get on a very
small box with his four feet. Then increase the
heighth until he will get up on a high box.
In this manner you can get him to stand on a
box with his four feet almost together.

25

HOW TO: TEACH A. IORSE FO SAYS Ss.

This trick is very amusing and an answer can
be obtained from a horse by simply pointing at
his breast with a cane or whip, or even the
finger. On speaking to the horse he will bow
his head as though answering “yes.” For in-
stance, ask him some question as though talk-
ing to a human being, and from all appearances
bystanders will think he understands just what
you say. Take a pin and prick him on the
breast. At the slightest move of the head, pet
him, speak kindly to him and give him a piece
of sugar, and repeat. If you use any set sen-
tence while you are teaching him, he will bow
his head when he hears those particular sounds.
Repeat this until he will raise his head very high
and drop it, but as soon as he will bow his head
from a tap on his breast, you may cease using
the pin, but just simply tap him instead.

26

—_ 4

mow TO TEACH A HORSE 10 SAY “NO.”

This trick, like the trick of saying “yes,” will
cause a great deal of amusement to a company
gathered together, as you may draw from the
horse the answer ‘‘no” by simply pointing to
his shoulder. I once taught a Shetland pony
and a crowd gathered around him while in the
livery stable. The stable man standing there, [
asked the pony if he had had any oats that day.
The pony gave an extra heavy shake of the
head. The stableman spoke sharply to him and
unconsciously raised his hand, which was point-
ed to his shoulder, saying: “you lie.” This made
the pony shake his head “no” again. Since then
the stableman thinks the pony understands a
great deal of what is said to him.

To teach this trick take a pin and prick the
horse on the leg, high up and well back, close to
the wethers, and on the least sign of a shake
of the head, pet him and give him a piece of
sugar and repeat. This trick can be taught in
fifteen minutes to any horse, so that the shake
will be recognized by any person. A horse that
is sensitive to the touch will shake his head as
soon as he is pricked, so that you may speak to
any horse and by concealing the pin you may
deceive a company or group that has gathered.

27

HOW TO TEACH (A-SHORSE 10 FOr
LOW WITHOUT HALTER OR BRIDLE.

Put the horse in a large stall or ring about
twenty feet in diameter and take a lash whip,
Crack the whip so as to make him run around
you while you remain in the center of the ring.
After he has run sometime and you see he is
slacking in his speed stop him by holding the
whip out in front, at the same time saying
“Whoa.” Then start him to run around the
other way by cracking the whip until you see
him slacken in his speed, then raise the whip
again in front of him, saying “Whoa.” If he
stops and looks at you, walk up to him, pet hirn
and remain petting him until he becomes calmer,
for you may have given him a little fright in
cracking the whip. When he has become calm,
start him running around in the opposite direc-
tion, but not so long this time before stopping
him, and after petting him, start him around the
other way. If you do not wish to use sugar,
carrots, apples or anything that a horse will eat
may be given him, but, under no consideration
must a horse be hit with a whip while you are
teaching him. When he will start around for
you and stop readily when spoken to, you will

28

HOW TO TEACH A HORSE TO FOLLOW. 29

then place the whip over his back, allowing the
lash to drop over his rump, step back a step
saying, “come here,” and pulling lightly on your
whip. When he steps up to you, pet him. Re-
peating this he will soon learn to follow you aay
place, and at the same time, you have taught
him to go away from you as well as to come
to you. In time he will distinguish the differ-
ence between the words “go away” and “come
here.’ A horse that is taught by this method
and rewarded every time he is called, may be
caught in the largest field or pasture that he
may be turned loose in.

HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS.

The driving of colts from the field or range into
the corral or paddock, do with as little noise as
possible. Being customary on ranches to shout
and yell on the rodiers or drives, it may take a
little trouble to break the men from this, but in
order to have good results in catching a colt it
must be done. Allow no ropes to be swung or
whips to be cracked while the separating of colts
or horses is being done, but in the parting from
one paddock to another, do it quietly and slowly,
walking in between the horses, and separating
the ones desired. Always have a sufficient num-
ber of gentle horses, so you may hold them easily
in any part of the corral. Now have a small
paddock, and in one corner have a pen built 8 feet
high, about 14 feet square, or 10x 14 at the small-
est; not larger than 14x 20, but if so long, it is
better not to have it wider than 10 or 11 feet.
Roof it over, but it can be made to do without a
roof. I have found better results from one that
is roofed over. Separate two or three gentle
horses with the colt or colts you are desirous of
haltering. Ten colts may be haltered in one half
day. This is about as many as one good man
may attend to, even when having the proper
places to hitch. Now, drive the gentle horse and

30

“ONIDOIYN ONIMVANE YALIVH AHL AO STIVLAG

THE HALTER BREAKING RIG AND ROPE BRIDLE.

HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 31

one colt in the pen, which we will call the halter-
ing pen. Go immediately inside, and separate
all of the gentle horses but one, which you will
leave in the haltering pen with the colt. Close
the door, which will shut out-the view of anything
that would tend to draw the colt’s attention.
Now, the colt will invariably go on the side of
the horse opposite from you, between the horse
and the wall. Being afraid of you, he will seek
protection, and thus use the gentle horse as a
shield. Now, you must guard against causing
him any fear, and thus work only on the outside
of the gentle horse. You must have a docile
horse that is not afraid of you, but one that you
can climb all over if necessary, and that will come
at your beck and call. One used for this several
times, and being petted and fed when he does
just what you want, will soon learn to help you.
When the colt is standing quietly with the horse,
you will go up to the horse, soothe and pet him.
Gradually let your hand reach the colt, all the
time stroking the neck of the horse. After hav-
ing touched the colt’s neck, and he will allow you
to stroke and pet him, using the left hand for this,
you will use the right hand to reach the colt over
the neck of the horse. When he allows you to
stroke his neck or nose, you will then take your
halter, which you will have prepared with a snap
and ring, instead of a strap and buckle.

Take the halter in the left hand, reaching
under the horse’s neck, and under the colt’s neck.

32 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS

When standing on the left side of the horse at
his head, then reach over their necks with the
right hand, taking the strap of the halter with
snap to slip over the colt’s nose, and snap into
the ring quickly. This must be done instantly,
and at the first trial; but if you should make a
failure at the first attempt, when the colt leaves
the horse, backing out from the side of him or
otherwise, wait one or two minutes; then bring
the colt back into position by the side of the
horse by quietly walking behind him, not using
anything that will excite him or cause him pain.
Even if the colt should leave five or six times,
bring him back quietly and gently. He will soon
not be afraid of your touch, and will allow you to
ship the halter on without becoming excited.
Now, having the halter on, go to his tail, keeping
on the side of the horse, so if the colt kicks, he
will not reach you. Keep the horse close up to
the wall which he is facing, that the colt may
not have any encouragement to leave his place.
Then touch his tail gently and gradually, stroke
and lift his tail up, separating it in three parts
for braiding, and take a piece of soft rope about
seven feet long, taking the centre, wrap three
times around the bone of the tail near the end,
and braid it into the tail; tying both ends on the
tail with the rope forming a loop.

Now take a soft rope, which we will call rig-
ging No. 1. Carry the end over the horse’s and
colt’s neck, and fasten in the ring of the halter;

‘OHONOUWE GTIM V DNIYVAYLIVH

'
‘
j

HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 33

put the other end into a rope over the back,
which we will call No. 2; then the other end
of No. 2 into a rope around the rump, which we
will call No. 3. Take through the slack of No.
I, dropping the end that is not fast to the halter
in front of the colt, still holding up Nos. 2 and 3
from the back of the colt. Reach in front of the
colt with No. 1, then pick up the end of No. 1
and urge the colt over it. This brings No. |
under the belly of the colt. Now lay the end of
No. I over the back of the horse, walk back and
put No. 3 through the loop in the colt’s tail, put-
ting No. 2 through the eye of No. 3, and then
No. 1 through the eye of No. 2, and bring No. 1
to the ring of the halter. Unfasten the end of
No. 1 and bring the two ends of No. 1 from
opposite sides, putting the two ends through the
ring of the halter; then tie a soft rope over the
colt’s withers to No. 1. Then take the colt out
of the box-stall or corral, in front of a high fence,
where he can be tied. No horses or other colts
should be left near him now. Do not tie him
to a hitching post or tree, nor in a small stall,
for if he throws himself he will get scared, but to
a high, smooth, strong fence, with a ring or
something to tie a rope to—about five feet from
the ground is the best. He may buck, jump, or
throw himself, but if he is in a good place, with
soft ground and a high fence in front of him, he
can not injure himself, nor yet get tangled in his
own rigging.

34 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS

This method is better than any other, saving
all cruelty and pain, being done quickly, safely
and with less irritation than by any other method.
Leave him tied until he is quiet and stands with
a loose halter rein, then unhitch him from the
place where he is tied, and give him a lesson in
following you. This he will learn quickly, if you
do not fight him, z. ¢., make him angry. By
standing in front of him and pulling on the rig-
ging gently he will take a step forward, when you
will approach him slowly, and pet him. Repeat
this until he will follow you readily around the
paddock. Now tie him up, feed and water him,
leaving the rigging on until the next day, when
you will give him another lesson in following.
You will find that he answers very quickly. Now
the rigging may be taken off, and a rope attached
to the halter will be sufficient, and if not ready
to bring him under complete subjection, you may
leave him until your own convenience. When
having to water him out of a bucket, approach
him with the water slowly and quietly, having
your bucket well filled, so he may drink readily
from the water without putting his nose too far
into the bucket, as this is something new and
strange, and he will probably be afraid, but
if he does not drink you may tie him up again
and.leave him a few hours, before offering him
any more, as very many horses on the range and
ranches running wild do not drink before 11
o'clock in the day, and some not more than

HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 35

oncea day. Do not do anything that will cause
him fear and teach him to kick or strike. By
halter breaking him in this way, it will prove
beneficial in his next lesson. For draft horses
or horses that are not likely to buck or kick much
the same methods as above may be used except
that instead of using rigging No. 1, the training
may begin by using rigging No. 2. This rigging
goes from the ring of the halter around the body
to the ring in the halter on the other side, be-
ing one rope with two soft pieces of rope over the
back to each side and fastened to the rope, one
just in front of the croup and the other just on
the withers. This rigging should not be too loose
on the horse, for when he stands up and quits
pulling if it is so, it will hang down, and there is
danger of his stepping over it. Having a loop
spliced in each end, and putting it through the
ring in the halter from the opposite sides, it will
form a cross, and the two ends being tied with
the hitching rope will prevent the rigging from
becoming larger or looser on the colt. This also
must be done with the rigging No. 1. Although
this rigging is very simple, and is easily put on,
being done very quickly, yet I do not recom-
mend it for high strung horses or mustangs or
animals that will buck, for in bucking it is liable
to slip up under his tail, and make it sore, or
even slip up over his back and pull down on his
neck, but in draft horses, colts or horses partially
broken, this rigging will do. In teaching them

36 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS

to follow you will have to pull harder, but other-
wise doing the same way as with rigging No. 1.
If desirous of putting him into a stall, the rigging
may be taken off, and tied up with a rope in the
halter, leaving him with a rope behind him from
each side of the stall, so when he backs up
against it, he will step up in his place. When
giving him his second lesson a piece of sash cord
may be used with a large loop; this dropped over
his hind parts can be used the same as rigging
No. 2. This I use in teaching yearlings to fol-
low, having a halter with a strap on and drop-
ping the cord over the rump, holding them
straight by the head, and pulling on the cord;
the same time saying the words, “ Come here.’
This may be taught in the two above methods.

I do not recommend any war bridles to be used,
but I will give them here, in order that the reader
may know them when he hears of them. The
reason that I do not approve of teaching colts to
follow by the use of war bridles and whip is they
break a colt’s mouth, which takes several months
at times to heal, again interfering with the bitting
and after training of the colt. If a colt has his
mouth broken, z. ¢., the corners of the mouth, it
may become so tender that he cannot bear the
touch of the bit, and healing quickly may become
tough and calloused, and teach him to pull or lug.
Take a soft rope about the size of a sash cord
or a little larger, making a loop in one end large
enough to get over the horse’s lowerJjaw, the

‘ONIOOIY MOVE-TITNd AHL

HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS S77.

other end being put through this loop making a
head stall. Put over the horse’s head right be-
hind the ears and the loop over his lower jaw hav-
ing the end to work from on the left side.

Some of our leading horse tamers and trainers
use this by standing on one side, giving a strong
jerk, raising the horse from his feet by the pain
which is caused from the rope, pulling the rope, at
the same time using the words, “ Come here,”’
then coming on the other side and continuing
until he will follow. Very oftenI have seen this
result in teaching colts to rear or strike, and some-
times they become very vicious. But this must be
done by standing on one side and pulling lightly
until the colt turns his head to one side, when
you will encourage him, and repeat it on the
other side. Then coming back to the first side,
pull again gently until he will take one step. It
matters not how small a step it is, just so he
moves a foot, when you will stop again and
encourage him. Do the same on the other side;
continue this until he will follow you. If he
should try to pull away from you, hold him
steady, but as soon as he stops pulling ease
on the rope. This in no case will be necessary
to use on any colt that has been broken by
my former two methods.

I will relate an instance here of a stock raiser
in Missouri who hired me to go on his farm
to breaksome colts. He told me that some were
halter broke, but some of them were not. I after-

38 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS

wards learned the reason why they were not all
halter broke. They could not catch them to put a
halter on, and his men not being experts, could
not throw a rope, so the colts ran longer without
being caught. On arriving at the farm, I imme-
diately began work haltering several of the colts.
I found the corners of their mouths were very
badly broken, and the colts very poorly halter
broke. One well bred colt had a hole in one
side of his mouth, it being so sore that I refused
to do anything more than to halter break and
tame him, leaving instructions that a_ bridle
should not be put on until his mouth was
thoroughly healed. Inquiring from him how this
was done, he told me that a horse doctor travel-
ing through that country showed him how
to halter-break his colts, this being the result
from his war bridle. Another method of war
bridle breaking is to tie a rope around the
colt’s neck, then bring it down through his
mouth, put the end through the rope around his
neck, and drawing tightly, using a long whip
to cut the colt from behind, and when the
colt runs from the whip, he is taken with a sharp
jerk on the mouth by the war bridle, this being
repeated until the colt will step up to the crack
of the whip, with a broken mouth and in many
cases a broken heart.

In books sold throughout the country, I find a
great many men are practising anothor method
with less common sense, and just as cruel as the

HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 39

war bridle. First, by taking a rope with a loop
in one end around the body of the horse, the
other end being first in the loop drawn rather
tightly over the flanks, bringing the rope between
the legs and through the rigging of the halter,
and tied toa hitching post or some other place.
Now, the colt being tied thus, will kick and
plunge, pulling back and falling down, carrying
the whole weight of his front parts on the rope,
they will sway from side to side falling with it,
with the blindness of not caring how they strike,
very often bruising their eyes from striking them
on the ground. Very often they will rear and
and strike, trying to get the rope from between
their legs. After being exhausted from pulling
back, they will stand close; being lacerated be-
tween the legs they quickly learn to stand with a
slack rope, so it will not touch tender places, but
this takes two or three weeks to heal. Very
often you have to spend a great deal of time in
healing between the legs, to say nothing of the
injuries caused to the head from throwing them-
selves on the ground, or battering themselves
against something that is close, such as the par-
titions in the stables where they are taken into as
soon as the rope is put on. This causes a great
many colts to lose an eye, and often so strains
the back as to make them weak for life.

Some trainers use a whip. Getting a colt into
a ring thirty or forty feet in diameter, they imme-
diately apply the whip to their heels, running the

40 HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS

colt a number of times around, when they will stop
him and make him go the other way; then they
will try to draw his attention by snapping the
whip, and approaching him, if he runs away, they
will whip him on the heels and try it over again.
Every time the horse runs by them they will use
the whip on him. I have seen a man spend a
whole half day on a high bred horse, whipping
him in this way, until no one dare go very close
to him, for he had learned to fight with his front
feet as well as his hind; but this is not gener-
ally the result from such training, as a horse
learning that he gets cut on the hind part will
face the trainer, but very often not until his spirit
is broken, when the trainer will approach him,
holding a halter open in both hands, slipping it
over the colt’s nose and snapping it. Then they
put him in hind hobbles and tie him to a post or
other place. If he pulls back the hobbles throw
him, as the rope comes from the hind legs up to the
ring in the halter, so he soon learns to stand with-
out pulling back. The next day he is put in the
ring again and has another lesson with the whip,
a little in advance of the one of the day before,
teaching him to follow all around. Although this
teaches the horse to follow, it does not fully halter
break him, for very often he learns to break away
when one is leading him with a rope. I do not
know why this is practiced, as I have never seen
any good practical results from such training on
wild colts. .

HOW TO HALTER-BREAK COLTS 41

If you wish to teach a colt to follow without a
rope you may get him in a large box-stall or ring
or small corral with the fence high enough so as
stop all attempts at jumping over, and discourage
him in any effort. Standing in the center of the
ring you may start him up slowly with a crack of
the whip, but not hitting him, and allow him to
run until he slackens his speed of his own accord,
when you will stop him and make him turn the
other way by still cracking the whip, but not
hitting him, as anything that will hurt him will
teach him to be afraid and will have its effects in
after training. Now, if he does not stop make
him turn the other way again until he will stop.
This may be repeated from one side and then the
other, but very few will ever resist this over ten
minutes. When they stand still you may snap
the whip and they will face you. You will ap-
proach them now and pet them, if having taught
them how to eat sugar you may give them a
piece, if not, give them something which they like,
such as apples, bread, or even oats or hay if they
will not eat anything else. Now, lay the whip
over the back with the loop hanging down close
above the hocks, using the words “ Come here,”
and having been taught to lead by either of the
first two methods he will readily step up when
you will pet him for it. Thus encouraging him,
he will soon learn to follow you all over without
either rope or halter, and not being afraid of you
there will be no fear of his running away as in

42 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING

the former method where there is so much fear
put into the colt. Now, this method should
never be used unless a colt has become gentle or
been trained by the first method of ‘“ Horse Tam-
ing to Harness.”” By this method I have had
great success in teaching horses to allow me
to catch them after they have been turned out in
pastures or paddocks, but always bringing them
something whenever going close to them, petting
and speaking kindly to them.

FIRST METHOD OF TAMING COLTS FOR
OSE OF HARNESS.

After having your colt well halter broke, you
will braid his tail up with a piece of soft rope by
wrapping the rope about the bony part of the tail,
and tying both ends of the rope at the end of the
braid with a half hitch; then:doubling the tail,
forming a loop, tie the end of the braid to the
bony part of the tail, allowing the wraps to come
below the half hitches so that the tail will not slip
down if a strain should come on it. In order to
do this, you will have to be very quiet, easy, slow
and your movements steady. Beginning on his
neck you will smooth the hair the way that it
lays, gradually getting nearer the tail; if he shows
any sign of being timid and steps as though he
would like to get away from you, you will stop
and begin again at his neck, gradually working
back, but if he should want to step away allow

“TIVL GNV GV4H ONIAL

FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 43

him to walk around you as much as he desires,
keeping your hand on the same spot while he is
doing so. When he stops gradually begin to
smoothe him again until at last he will allow you
to stroke the tail and gently touch it; when you
take hold of it—have a good hold for he is liable
to turn a little quickly, but you will stay, turning
with him until he stops; then braid his tail, form-
ing the loop, place the halter strap in and make
a slip hitch on the loop of the tail, not on the
strap itself, so that it may be let go or pulled out
very quickly; but if he is too ugly then you may
bring another horse alongside of him in one cor-
ner and braid his tail up in asimilar manner as is
mentioned in “ Halter Breaking Colts,” but gen-
erally colts that you have halter broke one
day you will want to tame the next, as this
method gives better practical results than leav-
ing them stand. You may judge how far back to
tie the head by studying the disposition of the
different horses. A cold blooded horse will not turn
quickly and often will beome discouraged if he
is forced to turn very short, so you will leave
him with a longer strap and his head not so far
back, beginning to work slowly and as he sub-
mits shortening the strap and then begin to crowd
your work closer, but a mustang’s head may be
tied a little shorter back, and will have to be
allowed to turn some little time before you can
do very much work, for if he should endeavor to
get away he will buck and throw himself and

44 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING

may cause a fracture in the neck. But by tying
him back gradually in turning he will soon give
up, when you may crowd all your work on him as
much as possible. A draft horse’s head may be
tied back and you may go to work on him at
once, he will soon give up; standard bred horses
you must be very careful of, as they are usually
quick and high spirited and if forced too soon will
make a very hard fight. These must be worked
slowly in the beginning and not tied back too
short; for if tied too short they will turn too
quickly and fall, but allowed to come under the
influence of the turn gradually, their heads may
be taken back a little shorter, but not until they
submit should anything be crowded upon them.
Thoroughbreds should only be worked in an in-
closure with not so much room, and still easier
than the standard bred, but it will not take so
long, as when they give up they will make no
further efforts—being game horses they will stand
under anything that may be brought on them.
Having determined how far back your horse’s
head should be tied, let him loose in a large
corral, or even in an open field where there is
nothing that he might get mixed up with, such
as trees or anything that he may fall against;
take a very light pole and at the proper
time gradually approach him. If he seems
to be too much afraid, gradually walk
around him, coming closer and closer until you
can touch him, then pole him all over lightly

‘duIL TIVL GNV GVHH ‘ONINYAL

_ FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 45

until he submits and will allow the pole to touch
him any place without moving or showing signs
of fear. Then take a sheet or blanket and begin
to shake it some distance away from him and if
afraid of it he will immediately begin to turn.

Gradually walk around him, shaking it all the

time, until he will allow youto come close to him.

When he stops then let him smell it, touch him

gently with it until he will allow you to throw it
up in the air and let the blanket fall upon him, or
under him. Then take a harness and do the
same with the harness, until he will allow you to
stand and throw it on him from the side upon
which his head is tied. When he has given up to
this, you may place your left hand on his left hip.

If the head is tied on the left side, press against
his hip so as to raise the weight off that leg.

Reach down with the right hand, take hold of his
hoof, raise the leg up straight so as not to hurt
him. If he is afraid of this, take hold of the
strap and turn him quickly nineteen or twenty
times and raise the leg up again. When he sub-
mits to this get under him as in the act of a
blacksmith shoeing a horse, hammer on the foot
and rub it, then, go on the other side, having a
piece of light rope tied around the neck for a
hand hold close to his shoulders, which must be
loose; take hold with the left hand when standing.
on the right side facing front; let the right hand
slip down, leaning against the horse’s shoulder so
as to raise the weight from that foot. You will

40 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING

then raise the horse’s foot, and if he will not
stand and allow this to be done, turn him as you
did in raising the hind leg, then let the strap
loose and tie it on the other side. He will now
stand and allow you to go to his tail without
any trouble, so shift sides as quickly as possible
and using the pole the same as on the other
side, blanket and harness, and picking the
feet up vice versa. After having raised the left
front leg you may mount as in the act of volting,
but do not jump on the first attempt, only rais-
ing yourself about twelve inches from the ground,
then speak to him and pet him; continue this
until he will allow you to jump on, then teach
him to turn while on his back, but do not remain
on too long the first time. Jump off and pet him,
when he will turn and stop at the word and show
no signs of fear. You will then let his head
loose and place some one on his back and lead
-him around a little; then put your saddle harness
on, and if a doubtful case, put the front strap
hobbles with the knee pads, as he may be dropped
on his knees a few times, at the same time using
the word “ whoa.’’ This will teach him to stop
when he hears that word. Have your cart in
readiness to put on him, using a collar and hames,
no check or blinds on the bridle, and bring him
in front of the cart, standing on the left side.
With the rope of the hobbles over the left arm,
you will raise the shafts of the cart and draw them
over his back. If he does not stand, drop him on

‘a10d AHL ONISN

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FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 47

his knees, using the word “ whoa.” This will not
have to be done more than once or twice in any
case. Then reach over the back with the left hand
and place the right shaft log on the right shaft,
and then the left, all this time facing the cart;
pull the cart up in place and fasten the shaft girth
very loosly, then tie a strap from the axel in the
loop of the tail, for having control of a horse by
any member of his body it is easy to keep
control of him by keeping control of that mem-
ber. Now, he is practically hitched up, as he can
not get out of the cartin onejump. You may now
hook up the traces, all the while keeping hold of
the rope in the halter, but very few colts
will ever move until called upon after being
brought under submission. Tie both wheels to
the shafts so as they will not turn, leaving
the shaft girth very loose so the shaft will
move six inches to either side, having a strap
attached to the bit under the jaw to prevent it
from coming out on either side, and standing on
the left side, holding the left rein in the hand,
taking hold of the shaft with the right hand and
pulling one step to the left, then stop the colt
and pet him; but this should not be done until
rope and hobbles have been removed from the
colt’s feet, unless he is a very doubtful case,
repeating on the right side what has been done
on the left. After he has taken the one step on
the right, go on the left and get him to take two
steps. Repeat this from side to side, increasing in

48 FIRST METHOD OF TAMING

the number of steps every time until he will make
a complete circle on either side, when you will
gradually step back from his head and speak to
him and start him turning until you can stand be-
hind the cart and turn him either side from a tug at
the line before you allow him to go ahead. This
not only teaches him to turn, but teaches him to
get in the collar and lug or pull, and prevents
him learning such habits as jibing and others.
You may put the lines up in the turrets, and give
him a little exercise, allowing to take his own
time, and do not crowd him to any extent what-
ever; do not ask him to go out of a walk, or
remain in harness over ten minutes after he will
answer to the touch of either line. This may be
repeated the next day; that is, the part of the
method which is used in the cart before driving
him out on the streets. When taking him out
on the streets put a kicking strap on for safety.
Take him every place where he will see ordinary
objects that very often frighten horses, such as
electric and cable cars, steam engines, awnings,
etc. You will find that they will not be afraid
in taking them there when they are first broken,
but were you to keep them away until they have
become accustomed to the cart, harness and new
surroundings and then bring them to those
objects, they would be very apt to shy. If they
are a little afraid of any object do not urge them
up any closer than they will go. You may lead
them by any object and they will not be much

‘ANIL LSYId AHL ONIHOLIA

FIRST METHOD OF TAMING 49

frightened if they have confidence in you, which
they will have if you have not taught them to fear
you.

The second day they should not be driven
around more than half an hour and allowed to go
slowly, just a little trot, faster than a walk.
When unhitching them have alum lotion and
syringe the mouth out and wash all places where
the harness touched so as to prevent the colt
from becoming sore; rub him off well with a piece
of sack or cloth. This will make him gentle,
beginning at his nose rubbing up over the head
and ears, and touch every part of him lightly.
This lesson may be repeated until he becomes
cheerful, when he may be put in a bit and har-
ness. A smooth, plain bit, broken in the center,
with elastic checks, may be put upon him, loosely
the first time, and only left on while he fights;
but as soon as he gives up they should be taken
off, and put on him for a greater length of time
every day, shortening the check as he raises his
head. These checks should be for a roadster
one overdrawn, and two side checks; for a saddle
horse, two high side checks and two low side
checks, but a gutta percha dumb jockey is still
better for either saddle or carriage horse, but not
for the roadster. Now, every colt’s mouth must
be prepared for the bit, as the sharp edges on the
teeth probe the tongue and cut the cheeks, and
if in a city every colt should be shod light before
he has been driven the second time, for the hoof

50 TO TEACH A COLT HOW TO STAND HITCHED

may break and make his feet tender. Do not
place the checks on while driving until he has
become accustomed to carrying his head up in
the bitting harness, when the check may be used
in driving. When driving, if a colt should show
fear at any object, turn his head away from it
while passing until almost past the object he is
afraid of, then let his head come straight. An
object passed three or four times in this way will
teach the colt not to shy at it.

LO TEACH A COLT HOW, TOUSTARS
AITCHED:

A bridle and halter combined should be used
for this, that is a leather halter with simply a light
brow-band put on, making a head stall of it, with
strap and buckle to fasten bits in the horse’s
mouth, a ring under the jaw in which to fasten
rope; seeing that no check is used for the first
five or six days, this may be put on the colt and
left on him in the stable, simply unstrapping the
bit. After having driven him some distance the
second day, take him to a fence where he can not
turn around, so as to prevent the pulling of the
head to one side, fastening a rope in the head
stall and tying him to the fence or railing. This
may be repeated every time he is taken out
driving. When hitching him to a post or the
corner of a fence for the first time, he must be
tied very close so as to not give him too much

"NUNL OL ASHYOH V ONIHOVAL

HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO BACK UP 51

room to step to one side; the head being pulled
back he may fall, and will cost you a new shaft,
for if he falls upon the shaft he will surely break
it. After he has learned to stand tied or hitched
to a fence or post with a short rope, the rope
may be lengthened out to the length which is
ordinarily used, then, a heavy weight may be
used, putting the end of the hitching strap
through the ring of the bit and fastening it to
the ring in the head-stall. This I do not recom-
mend to use until the colt is thoroughly well
broken and will stand hitched any place without
the least sign of fear or endeavoring to get away.

mOeyhOnTeACH A COLT 70 BACK. UP.

Stand in front of him with a piece of heavy
cord, pressing it on his nose, at the same time
using the word “ Back,” and if he bows his head
down, pet him. Then repeat, press until he
takes one step, when you will pet him again;
repeat this several times, making him back first
with one foot and then the other, always repeat-
ing the word “ Back.’ Continue this lesson
until he will step back nine or ten steps, without
stopping. This may be repeated the next day
until he will back at the command of the voice.
Then attach the string (just above the rings of
the bit) to the bridle, having the reins come from
the rings in the bit on both sides of the horse
through the shaft lugs with the shaft girth

52 HOW TO TEACH A COLT TO BACK UP

fastened down so as to hold the shaft lugs down
in their place, standing behind the horse pulling
on both reins lightly, but not steady. If one pull
does not bring him, give a number of them, at
the same time saying “ Back.”’ As soon as he
takes one step, pet him for it. He will learn
that you want him to back when you pull on
the reins, and, therefore, will back very readily.

Repeat this until you can back him straight or
on either side as you wish, when you will
lengthen the string on his nose so as to make
more of a pull come on the bit and repeat until
he will back readily from a tug on the bit.
Now put him in the cart, stand behind the cart
and give a pull on the reins very lightly. If he
does not back when spoken to and the bit being
pulled on, take your cord and press on his nose
the same as in the first lesson, then speak to him
and pet him. This will teach him not to be
afraid. Sometimes they are a little afraid to go
against the weight while they are in a breeching
hitched to any rig, but after having been once or
twice backed they will back readily, but if they
do not back very clever put the cord back on the
bridle and repeat the second lesson while in the
cart until they become very clever in backing.
Continue this lesson until they will back for you
readily by speaking to them.

‘NO SHTHAHOH GANIH AHL

HOW TO BREAK COLTS WITH HIND
HOBBLES.

This is practiced very much in the western
country where they tie to one or both hind legs
a rope passed around the neck in between the
front legs and fastened, when the trainer hits
the colt all over with sacks, but this method
alone I have never seen used very successfully.
I had two colts sent to me that trainers had
been tying in this way for twenty-one days, and
they were just as wild the morning of the last
day as they were before they had been touched.
They would strike, bite and kick. The failure,
I believe, was due to their handling, for they
were never made to repeat their work after hav-
ing been let loose to find out whether they had
submitted to their treatment or not, so we must
always put our horses to a test after the first
lesson to ascertain whether they have sub-
mitted.

After a colt has been well halter-broken, you
may tie his head back, as in former methods,
with a heavy strap which is made like a Dutch
collar to go over his neck, coming well back
on his shoulders, strong, heavy straps to be at-
tached on either side. These should be made to

53

54 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HIND HOBBLES.

fasten with a loop, not a buckle, and should be
well wrapped with something soft so as not to
chafe the fetlocks while they are on. Throw
these between the hind legs, pick one up and
placing the end through the loop, fasten it to
the Dutch collar very short so as to take the
foot almost from the ground. Then let his head
loose and fasten the other strap on the other
side the same way. If you do not get these
straps short enough, you will find that he can
handle himself quite freely, so they must be
taken so short that he can just stand, not falling
when he moves. Now get a heavy pole to imi-
tate the shaft of a cart, lay it on his back and
touch him all over with it, and use the blanket
as in former method; also throw the harness on
him until he is not afraid of it. If he is a doubt-
ful case, you may leave him in any lot for half
a day without injuring him, providing you have
the hobbles well made and so they will not jam
on the fetlocks when drawn tight, but the lot
must not be a sandy one, or a place where there
is loose dirt, for if it gets inside of the hobbles
it will chafe him and his legs will swell. Every-
thing that you wish to do with him must be re-
peated after you have taken him out of the hob-
bles, so that he will not become discouraged or
feel afraid when you undertake to handle him
the next day. This is a very good method when
used with the first described as an after lesson,

‘ONIHOLIH ANYOAAA SUHTAAOH GANIH HLIM ONIATYNA

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE WITH HIND HOBBLES. 55

which will give good results. Also teach him to
turn, pull, stop, start, back as in former method,
but this must not be done while he is in the
hobbles, as it would discourage him and may
make him sulk.

56 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE.

A horse must be well halter broken and very
tame if you wish a gentle saddle horse. Gentle-
ness is to be considered greatest of all, then
comes gameness so that he will go any place that
you want him to, and if he is strong and active
with these qualities he will make a good, service-
able saddle horse. All of these qualities must be
in a horse whether used by a lady or gentleman.
You may pick any horse, even without any gait
except his natural gaits, such as run, trot, walk,
or pace, and make a saddle horse out of him with
all the gaits. He will make a pretty horse in
action if his actions in his natural gaits are pretty.
A high-stepping trotter will make a high-stepping
single-footer, and a light running horse will make
a light, easy galloper, so these qualities will also
have to be sought if you wish a desirable looking
horse. Now to accompany these we must have
the formation, a fine head, shapely neck and
body, with good sound limbs. For a gentle-
man’s saddle horse I think one of nearly full-
blood (thoroughbred), as they are game, gentle
when handled properly, quick, with good wind,
well muscled and good, sound limbs. But for a
lady’s saddle horse I find that the standard-bred
make the best. They have the gameness of the
thoroughbred, docility which can not be equaled,
are active and easily taught, and can be taught

“HINT L

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COS ND

QINITIGAVS

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 57

all the gaits by a lady herself. Therefore, after
trained, are easily managed by tender hands.
After seeing that the horse is well halter broke
and is thoroughly gentle by our first system of
treatment, a saddle and blanket may be placed on
him, with streams of cloth hanging down on
either side, with a band around his nose high
enough so it will not shut the wind off, forming
it into a head stall, and fastening reins under-
neath the jaw. This band should fit snugly on
the nose, so as it will turn the head either side
when the rein on that side is pulled. This strap
should not be over five-eighths of an inch wide,
and may be round, or a roll of leather which I
think is the best, having a soft piece of leather
under the jaw just where the reins fasten in to
prevent from breaking the skin by the working
of the rein. The trainer mounting the saddle
when the horse has been taught to stand, if he
will not stand and has been broken by the former
method, he may be taken by the head and tail
and turned a few times sharply, when letting go
of the tail at the same time say “ Whoa,” then
attempting, after petting him, to get on. It is
customary always to handle horses on the left
side, that is, in doing anything that can be done
on one side. This is a habit, or custom, with
different nationalities and races, some working on
the left side, this including all our English speak-
ing people, while a great many others do all the
work on the right side. After getting into the

58 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE

saddle, and he is willing to stand, he should be
petted and caressed. Reaching down with the
hand parallel with the nose and pulling out to
the side by light jerks, chirping to the colt, when
he moves or steps on that side, pet him. Then,
use the other hand on that side, and when he
steps from the light jerk again, speak to him and
pet him. Continue this treatment, first on one
side and then on the other, until he will turn
completely around either side; then you may walk
him, after making a turn a few steps ahead, when
you will turn again. This much may be given
him in his first lesson, including taming, after
having been halter broken. That is, taming
with the head and tail system, going through all
the method as used in breaking in harness, ex-
cepting hitching him to harness and cart, at
which point you will begin to teach the saddle
instead.

This lesson should be repeated the second day
by taking the halter strap and fastening it to his
tail, the same as when taming him, tying him
short so that he must turn when he moves, and
make him turn a number of times, first on one
side and then on the other, before getting into the
saddle. This practiced for a few mornings before
giving him his lesson from the saddle in turning,
will make him much lighter to turn, as he will
give his head when the rein is touched. Every
time vou pull on the reins to turn him, the pull

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‘AWIL LSYIA AHL ONILNOOIN

HOW TO BREAK R HORSE FOR SADDLE 59

should be straight to the nose. That is, in a par-
allel line from the hand to the strap on the nose,
and should be done with gentle jerks. The lighter
touch you give to the horse, the better reined he
will be, as a very fine reined horse will only come
from very gentle handling. Some trainers image
ine if they jerk and pull hard, they will get their
horses to run more quickly, but this is not so, for
the easier touch, if direct, the quicker your horse
will be in turning. When he becomes well prac-
ticed, and will turn with your lightest touch, then
have one rein to come from under the jaw over
the neck, holding it on the opposite side so as the
pull will come equally on both reins, that is to
make the strain on the neck as well as under the
jaw. This will teach him to rein from the neck
instead of pulling him around by the mouth, prac-
ticing him by this method, first on one side and
then on the other until he becomes so easily
turned that at the least pull up on one side he
will turn to the other. This can be done in three
weeks if properly handled. Now, no steel should
be put in a colt’s mouth that is to be trained for
a saddle horse, until he is well reined, and that
the lightest touch will turn either way or stop;
when, after having his mouth prepared, a dumb
jockey may be used. These are made of a gutta
percha band with two gutta percha arms and
placed over the back of the colt, which fits on as
a saddle, with elastic checks from the arm to the
bit.

60 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE

After having the colt well reined, a bridle may
be put on, still leaving the nose band in place
with two reins, and two reins to the bridle, which
is four; the four reins may be used together in
turning, or stopping, but do not use the reins of
the bridle as much as the strap rein, but grad-
ually increase the use until your colt will rein
with the slightest touch of the bridle rein. Then
you may take the nose band off, and put two
more reins on the bridle. The first two reins put
on should always he the curb rein, the last two
being the snaffle. We may now begin to teach
him his gaits.

The only gait we should have taught him in his
first series of lessons of breaking him to the sad-
dle should be a walk. The next gait should bea
trot and slow gallop. When he will walk, trot
or lope just as we wish, we may teach him to
single foot. This is all done by riding in the
saddle.

If you wish to retain your horse with a light
mouth, teach him this with a strap on his nose,
having a light set of shoes put on the front feet
or no shoes at all, with heavy shoes on the hind
feet, sitting well back on his back and carrying
his head very high, urging him on. This will
bring him intoa fox trot. When he has taken
two or three steps, let his head down, pet him,
speak kindly and allow him to walk some distance,
when you will repeat. Do not endeavor to get

HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE 61

him to single foot too much in the first lesson, as
this gait is not natural and is very hard on him at
first attempt. Those muscles which required to
be developed for this gait have had no oppor-
tunity previously and he will become sore if too
much work is given him. You will soon learn
this by the way he will fretand sweat, This may
be repeated from day to day, each time increas-
ing the distance you will make him single
foot, until he will single foot for you a half
mile before you begin to make him single foot
rapidly.

Now, to do this, you will have to have the
front shoes changed and heavier ones put on, so
as he will reach out more; by this time the hind
ones are worn down some. If they were an 18
ounce iron shoe behind in ten days they would
be about the weight to balance a nine ounce
shoe in front, for single footing. If this method
is followed, in one month’s time your horse will
be a square, easy and rapid fast single footer.
After having taught him to single foot, and you
want him to single foot at the touch of the curb
rein, to trot on the snaffle rein, so that you may
keep a steady hold while raising to the trot in
your saddle, and also, if you wish to make your
horse a combination, he will trot while hitched
to a buggy being the same rein used in harness.
To teach them to lope you should always teach
chem with a loose rein, so now he will trot from

62 HOW TO BREAK A HORSE FOR SADDLE

the snaffle, single foot from the curb, and lope
from both reins being carried loosely.

Very nearly all saddle horses can be made
good single footers or good trotters, easy lopers
if well trained, providing they have the life in
in them.

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ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE.

I feel that this is all nonsense, and all who
have much work to do in the saddle agree with
me. The riding teacher will tell you one thing
is right and some one else will tell you it is
wrong, and I think the best guide in these mat-
ters is common sense. Some will dwell on how
to carry your whip, and in which hand to carry
it without regard to your being right or left-
handed. If you ask them the reason for any of
these rules, they will tell you it is the way it is
done in Europe or somewhere else. We want
rules and methods that will teach us how to stay
in the saddle when we get there, and yet look
to the best advantage at the same time. We
should consider first, comfort to ourselves; sec-
ond, comfort to the horse; third, a pleasing ap-
pearance to others.

For comfort to yourself see that your bridle
is just the one that will enable you to handle
your horse with ease. A good bit for ordinary
horses is one that can be used as a snaffle or
curb, or both, but sometimes you may find this
will not do for your horse and a more severe bit
is needed. Ifso, get one that you will not have
to use much, so that with a light pull the horse

63

64 ETIQUETTE IN THE SADDLE.

can be stopped short. Next, look after your
saddle. See that it has a comforta le seat, and, if
a lady’s saddle, that the horn is solid and fast in
the tree, and also look well to your girths. If
the fastenings are straps and buckles, see that
they are strong. Straps and ring fastenings are
safer and they will enable you to cinch a horse
tighter, and your saddle is not so liable to turn.
Have a balancing strap on the side saddle.

os

HOW TO: Sid. ON A AORSE.

To sit on a horse the first thing to be consid-
ered is your own comfort and next to please
others. For comfort have a loose seat, that is, do
not grip your saddle in any part, for this soon
tires the muscles, and becoming weary you can-
not ride with ease. Sit up straight as you would
in a chair. Use the same rules in your carriage
of body as you would in ordinary circumstances,
that is, carry your shoulders well back, and do
not sit stiff but loosely and natural, facing right
in front of you, and let your legs hang as
straight as necessary to comfort, with the feet
a little advanced, parallel with the horse’s body.
Now, if sitting naturally and not lazily, your
feet will be still when the horse is walking. By
this method you have your balance always, and
if your horse is starting on a trot, you will raise
in your stirrups just as much and no more than
the horse’s action will raise you. If the horse
is loping, let your body give to every jump, and
on turning either side, swing your body, carry-
ing the weight on the stirrup on the side to
which the horse is turning. By following these
rules, in a short timé any one can become a good
rider.

65

66 HOW TO SIT ON A HORSE.

To handle the reins of a saddle horse, you
must either use two bits, or one bit with four
reins if you want to keep your horse light at
hand, and do not wish to interfere with his gait
and harness. When trotting, always use the
snaffle rein, for this will be the rein used in driv-
ing him to harness. Some horsemen in different
parts teach their horses to trot when they are
taken hold of by the mane. This is chiefly done
in Kentucky and Missouri, but when your horse
is single-footing or loping, it would be awkward
if not impossible, to reach from a buggy and
take a horse by the mane; so if he is taught to
trot by the snaffle-rein you can always have him
trot when he is hitched to a buggy. When
single-footing, always use a loose, unsteady
curb-rein. By drawing on the curb-rein un-
steadily, it will cause a little irritation and im-
mediately bring your horse into a single-foot.
In loping, always start this with a loose rein,
leaning well forward with the right hand
stretched so that the reins will lay well on the
neck, urging him by speaking or a touch of the
heel or whip.

DRIVING.

When driving a free-going horse, do not pull
on the reins unless you speak to him. If you
want the horse to go faster and wish to hold a
tighter line over him, always urge him with as
little irritation as possible, for if he gets excited
and goes at it madly he will bolt and soon leara
to pull or lug, which is a very unpleasant habit
in a driving horse. If he is whipped when troi-
ting as fast as he can go, he will be taught to
break or given cause to hitch. This habit takes
time and pains to remedy. When once a horse
acquires the habit of hitching, it is very difficult
to get him straight. When you wish your horse
to slacken his speed, speak to him in a mild tone
and if he does not catch the words he will un-
derstand the sound. Many drivers do not pay
any attention to this, and whip an old horse for
stopping while they have been conversing with
some one. When he slackens his speed, give
him a loose and comfortable rein. Always be
as pleasant as you can; this will encourage and
not discourage your horse. When you are
speeding, be reasonable in your distance. Do
not ask your horse to speed a long distance
hitched to a heavy buggy or over hard roads.

67

68 DRIVING.

A quarter of a mile on a level dirt road with a
good strong horse is a long distance for him to
go at full speed. If you do not speed him too
far and hitch him to a light rig, a short distance
at high speed will improve his road gait. If you
do not follow common-sense and jerk on the
reins when anything does not suit you, you will
break the horse’s mouth, spoil his disposition,
and prove yourself void of reason. When a
horse’s mouth is once broken and becomes sore,
it takes a very light pull on the reins to aggra-
vate him and may teach him disagreeable habits,
such as pulling on one rein, running away, slob-
bering, lugging, etc. If the teeth are sharp, the
bit drawn from one side to the other will press
the cheeks against the sharp edges of the teeth,
cutting the cheeks. In case the teeth are sharp
on the edges, they should be floated. Some
horses when aggravated will often not go at all,
and will baulk, but this habit of baulking in
buggy horses is generally caused by high check-
ing. The horse’s mouth is very sensitive and is
the chief means of conveying to him your wishes
when driving, so if you want a good driver you
must save his mouth all that you can. This
you may do greatly by your voice. The more
gentle and tender you touch the reins the more
apt and clever driver your horse will be. With
some practice you will learn that a horse can
be taught to do things most readily by the voice

DRIVING. 69

and that the voice is better than any bit that
money could buy. For instance, if your horse
has signs of speed you may urge him and keep
him steady in a manner that you never could do
with whip and bit, but when you speed him do
not press him too much. Start him easy, stop
him before he breaks and let him trot or pace,
the gait that comes most natural to him. He
will soon learn to road without breaking into
a run with a loose rein, but when you speed him,
always steady him but not with a tight rein. .
Speak to him often and encourage him. You
may use the whip a little if your horse is lazy,
hut not under any other circumstances in speed-
ing, and then only tapping him as lightly as
possible. Begin with a very short distance
and increasing from day to day until you have
reached the distance you desire to speed him.
After speeding him, always examine your horse
and see if he has hurt himself by interfering or
over-reaching, when you will fit boots for him
accordingly, but no young horse should be
speeded without quarter boots, and with heavy
shoes. If a young horse should strike himself
and get sore from it, he will become afraid to
travel for fear of hurting himself again; but if
he has hurt himself get the soreness all out and
see that it is well before trying to speed him
again. Every colt or horse that has not had a
course of training should be well booted when

70 DRIVING.

taken out to speed. This will prevent him from
striking himself and so remove the cause of dis-
couragement. Do not let the horse get chafed
in any place from harness or vehicle. To pre-
vent this, if the horse is soft, bathe in alum
water the parts where the harness will chafe, and
this will harden the skin. Also be careful not
to scald him where the harness touches by get-
ting him too hot when he is fresh from the
country. Also do not work any horse for speed
in a heavy rain, as this will shorten his gait. It
is easier to prevent a bad habit than to cure one.
There have been many good horses spoiled from
carelessness and ignorance on the part of the
drivers, but no habit spoils a horse so much in
driving as the habit of lugging, as he is not
safe even for the best of drivers.

HOW TO DRIVE IN A CITY AND PREVENT
COLLISIONS AND YET DRIVE
Wi ti BASE:

Can you drive a horse with ease and comfort
in a large city? If you do, you will know how
to appreciate your quality of driving when in
a crowded street. If you cannot drive well, let
me give you a few points on the art and how to
avoid accidents. First, do your own thinking
and stop instead of thinking that the other
team will stop. Always turn to the right when
you are passing another team unless it will be
inconvenient, when you may turn to the left to
avoid an accident, but, in the United States
turning to the right is the rule. In England
they turn the other way. Now, if you think
the other team will stop or turn out, you may
be mistaken, for the other driver may think the
same as you in regard to yourself, and he driy-
ing straight ahead and you also waiting for each
other to stop or turn out will run into each
other and you may cause an accident or get
blocked if nothing else. If you do not get
mixed in this way, just do your part, by keeping
out and away from the very appearance of
trouble. Always drive on the right side of the

Al

72 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY.

street when convenient, and always turn slowly
and on the right side while going around a cor-
ner. If you are turning to the left, go over to
the right side of the street on the side which
you are going to turn. When you turn you
will be on the right side of the street you are
now on and thus avoid any teams that are com-
ing up on their right side. If you wish to turn
to the right, turn close around the corner,
which will cause you to be on your right side
and thus avoid any passing teams coming from
opposite directions.

To avoid running into pedestrians going over
crossings, drive over very slowly and have your
horse in hand so as to stop him even at the
next step. It is your place to give way when
there is danger to life or limb, under every cir-
cumstance. The pedestrian always has the
right-of-way over a team. Bicycles and people
on horse back, etc., also have the right of way,
and you must always stop your team to let
them pass. It matters not whether you are on
the right or left side, this rule must be followed
in every case. If you do not, you will be held
responsible for an accident. When a carriage
is coming that has women and children in it, it
is not only polite, but it is right and you are in
duty bound to turn out for them and give them
the right of way so as not to cause them un-
easiness. If you should not turn out and yor

HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 7S,

were on the right side of the street and collided
with a lady driver and upset the carriage, in-
juring the occupants who would likely be chil-
dren, you might get free from the law, but you
would have to answer to your God, Who is the
Judge most High. If one should get killed you
would be the murderer, for by turning to one
side or stopping your team it would have pre-
vented loss of life; but being so selfish of what
you consider your right, the guilt would be
upon you. I cannot see any difference in the
act of doing something that will cause death,
or not doing something that will prevent it
when it is in your power. Next to life and
safety is the comfort of the people that you
have riding with you. Be careful in crossing
over car tracks and railway crossings. Cross
them at a right angle and you will not have
your wheels smashed, for if you get caught in
the tracks and try to pull out other than cross-
ing them at an angle, you may have a break-
down. This happens every day in large cities.
When you stop at the sidewalk to let someone
off, turn your horse away from the walk in order
to open as much space as possible between the
wheels, and if it is a lady, drive always to the
sidewalk on the right side of the carriage; that
is, if the place of stopping is on your left go
past it and turn round. It will then be on your
right. Turn your horse out to the left, step out

74 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY.

of the rig, holding the reins in your right hand
and helping the lady out on the left, taking her
by the hand. The same rule may be applied in
helping a lady into a rig, always helping her in
by keeping her skirts from getting mud off the
wheels

Next, we will consider our own comfort in
driving. If a gentleman is riding in the same
seat, let him drop his arm behind you. This
will leave you room to work with both hands
freely. If a lady, let her sit well over to the
left side with the right shoulder thrown back a
little. This will also give you plenty of room.
Now if you are right-handed and driving with
a loose rein, carry both reins in the left hand
and let your hand rest on your lap, but always
watch your horse and at the least sign or ap-
pearance of danger you may reach well out with
your right hand, taking both reins, the left rein
between the thumb and the first finger so as to
take hold of it with the left hand immediately,
now holding both reins between the first and
second fingers. In case you wish to change your
hold you can place the rein of either hand be-
tween the thumb and forefinger of the other
hand. If something has frightened your horse
which has caused you to gather your lines, you
must remember he will never get over a fright
by causing him more fear. With a shying horse,
it is a common thing to pull the horse’s head

HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY. 75

around so that he can look at the object he is
afraid of, urging him as close as possible to 1t,
even under persuasion of the whip. There is
nothing I know of in ordinary use that does a
horse so much harm as this method of treat-
ment. To avoid all of this and may be the upset-
ting of a rig, the breaking of an arm, and pos-
sibly a head, it will be best to turn the horse’s
head the other way and allow him to go by
unknowingly. Turn his head away from the ob-
ject, holding tight on both reins so as to hold
his head in that position and yet not let him
turn. You may urge him now somewhat, if nec-
essary. A horse passing an object this way will
learn to drive by without trouble.

Never leave your horse untied while hitched
to a rig and standing on the street. If you do
not want him to run away, tie him securely with
a rope, a halter or neck strap, and if necessary
with a chain, for some horses will chew a rope
or strap in two. I do not recommend using
weights, for I have seen horse after horse leav-
ing, with a weight attached to him, very easily;
but a rope around the neck and through a ring
of the bit is strong enough and securely tied
will hold a horse. So will a neck strap used in
the same way. A halter may be used by putting
it on over the bridle, but in case there is no place
to tie a horse, and you must use a weight, al-
ways put the strap through the ring in the curb

76 HOW TO DRIVE IN THE CITY.

stone and through one ring in the bit to the
other; if there is no ring in the curb stone, I
recommend you to have someone to hold your
horse, for safety. Of course, a great deal of
judgment must be used as to which and what
method is required. There are some horses
that are never tied by their owners, but even the
most gentle of these [consider unsafe, and would
recommend that every horse be securely tied
when left standing alone.

HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE THAT HAS BEEN
SPOILED AND TAUGHT TO PULL.

If, while going he carries his nose out
straight, you may take him to dentist and have
his teeth cut, which, in many cases, will stop
this; that is, if he is not over-ambitious. If he
carries his nose on his breast, you will some-
times find that an overdraw-check will remove
this by compelling him to carry the nose out
straight, you may take him to a dentist and have
dies will help a horse. A horse that pulls so
badly that the moment you slack the lines he
will bolt and break into a run, hitch in a two-
wheeled cart or a wagon that you can turn very
short. If in the two-wheeled cart, tie both of
the wheels so that they will not turn; if in a
wagon, tie only the hind wheels. To do this a
sandy lot is best, but take him where you can
get a dirt lot, if nothing else. Now, begin 10
turn him in as short a circle as possible without
turning the rig over, and let him turn as quickly
as you can. Let him run just as long as he
wants to, but do not let him start to run too
quickly. Rather wait until he is a little tired of
turning before giving him a slack rein, until he
will walk, when you will begin to turn him the
other way. After he has become tired of turn-
ing and is willing to turn under a loose rein,

77

78 HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE,

then you may begin to make your circles largely.
At each time, however, that he wants to bolt or
run, bring him back to the short turning, each
time using the word “easy,” so that he will
learn to understand by this word “easy” that if
he does not go easy or go slow, he will be made
to turn, which will soon become very distasteful
to him. Some trainers do what they call “tratl-
ing,” which is to take the horses on a race-track
and let them run around the track with a loose
rein until they become tired and are willing to
go slow. Sometimes this will do all that is re-
quired, but very often neither of these two
methods are needed, for a nose strap is often all
that is necessary. This should be fastened in
the ring of the bit with a strap to the head-piece
of the bridle, keeping it up from shutting off the
horse’s wind. This brings a direct pull on the
head instead of the mouth. Now you may “set”
him or punish him a little on the nose when he
goes too fast, but at all other times give him
an easy rein, and with careful handling your
horse will come back to driving with an easy
rein, when you may remove the nose strap and
drive him on an easy bit of leather or rubber. If
your horse drives with a side-rein, or on one
rein, teach him to drive with a loose rein and he
will soon go straight for you, and with an easy
bit and careful handling he will be driving as
clever as ever.

HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT.

It is rather a trying ordeal for an inexperi-
enced rider to mount a tall horse from the
ground, but with a little practice this is an easier
feat than one would suppose, and when well per-
formed makes the rider appear agile and grace-
ful, giving an air of superior horsemanship, and
it is well worth any lady’s while to acquire.

For this method of mounting, the first requt-
site is that the horse should stand still, and if he
does not know how, he may be taught. Any
lady can have this done under her direction by
simply having the groom take the horse in one
hand by the reins close to the bit, and with the
other hand holding the tail, drawing the head
and tail somewhat together, making him turn a
number of times; the more fractious he seems to
be the more times he ought to be turned. This
cannot be overdone in half an hour, but will
only take four or five minutes with the most
nervous or stubborn horse, but should always
be done before the saddle is put on. After
swinging him a number of times, let go of his
tail, but not too quickly, for if you do he will
fall if he has been swung very much. Hold him
by the bridle, at the same time speaking loud

79

80 HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT.

and sharp, saying “Whoa!’’ Now having a
horse that will stand for you, you may proceed
to mount. When the horse is brought to the
door or the most convenient place for mount-
ing, it is well to examine everything before you
mount, which will give you more confidence and
do away with a great deal of uneasiness in think-
ing whether this or that is not right, especially
when you are riding alone. After examining
everything thoroughly, take your position on the
left side of the horse with your right side a few
inches from the saddle, facing the same way as
the horse, withyour left shoulder slightly thrown
back. Place the right hand on the second pom-
mel, holding in it the whip and reins drawn just
tight enough to give a feeling of the bit. Your
attendant should stand facing you and as close
as convenient, still holding the horse by the bit,
and must stoop forward reaching his right hand,
in which you will place your left foot, using
your left hand to raise your skirt. Now let go
of your skirt, rest your left hand on his shoulder,
and giving him the cue by bending the right
knee, spring up erect on the left foot and seat
yourself sideways on the saddle. Place the right
knee over the horse. If your attendant is un-
used to rendering such service, you had better
teach him by telling him just what to do, where
to stand, just how high to lift your foot, and cau-
tion him to put forth strength enought to sup-

HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT. re

port you steadily without lifting tooviolently. Do
not be deterred by awkwardness on his part, or
on your own, from learning to mount from the
ground, for the more awkward the attendant
the better practice for you. Your attendant
will now adjust your skirt so that it will
hang properly without dragging, and then
disengaging the stirrup from beneath the skirt,
will place your left foot in it. Too much
care cannot be taken with the position in the
saddle. The left leg should invariably hang
from the knee with the heel depressed, and with
the foot parallel with the horse’s side. The
length of the stirrup strap should be such that
the knee is out of contact with the hunting
horn, but near enough to be brought firmly up
against it by raising the heel. The right knee
should rest easily but snugly over the pommel
so as to grasp it in case the horse turns. Neither
foot should be allowed to sway above or to pro-
ject so as to be seen awkwardly poking out of
the skirt. Rise in your stirrup and allow your
attendant to pull your skirt straight, for it will
be very awkward should it become disarranged
on the road. Now, put your handkerchief in
the pocket, which ought to be on the right side
of your saddle. The reins may be taken in either
hand or in both, as you prefer, and start the
horse by the sound of the voice, which is best,
or a touch.

82 HOW A LADY CAN MOUNT.

A strap fastened to the cantle which comes
from the stirrup strap will keep the saddle
steady on the back of the horse, and the rider
can adjust it to suit her convenience. She can
let it out or take it up, she being independent
regarding this. The next thing is to get in the
saddle. There are many ways, but I will not try
to describe them all, but will give you a few of
the best ways that have come to my notice.

In case your horse has not been taught to
stand, you may take the pommel and reins in
your right hand, facing your saddle, and when
being raised take your seat and hold on to both
reins as soon as you have placed your knee over
the pommel. This will cause you to turn.

Standing on the left side of the horse facing
the saddle, place the right hand on the second
pommel, holding in it your reins drawn tight
enough to give a feeling of the bit, with your
left hand on the horse’s mane, raising your leit
foot and mounting as described in directions
above. This is the best method when your at-
tendant is inexperienced, being safer to the
party mounting, and comes as easy and graceful
as any other method of mounting.

HOW TO MOUNT ASTRIDE.

First, how to get on a gentle horse. Hold
the reins in the left hand and hold the stirrup
with the right until you have placed your left
foot in the stirrup, then press heavily with your
right hand on the right side of the saddle to
prevent it from turning over; then spring up
and raise the right leg over the saddle, putting
your other foot in the stirrup; you have a seat
now that can be taken without help on any
gentle horse. If you have a young horse, or
one that cannot be trusted, then place your
left hand in the check of the bridle, standing
on the left side, facing opposite the way the
horse is facing; put your left foot in the stirrup
and swing into the saddle. If your horse wants
to go or buck, draw his head around and he
can only turn; but if he is hable to move just
when you are mounting, you may take the reins
in the left hand, taking hold of the mane, at the
same time with the right hand, placing the left
foot in the stirrup and facing in the opposite
direction of the horse. Raise yourself high and
swing the right foot over the horse’s back, plac-
ing the right stirrup quickly. If he goes ahead,
you will not lose your balance but can take your

seat even were he to start in a dead run.
83

CRAZY JAME:

Crazy Jane was a beautiful, dark bay mare,
sired by Venture, a registered horse, nine years
old, and running loose in the pasture. She had
been in the hands of many trainers, and had
been owned by many different men. When the
writer found her she was owned by a street
car company. Although they had an expert
trainer, they could do nothing with her. She
would stand and kick until she had cleared her-
self of the vehicle to which she was hitched.
However, the last time, when the trainer and
helpers tried to hitch her to harness, she turned
on them, chasing the four men from the stable.
Then she was turned out to pasture, where she
remained eleven months. She was sold to the
author for a very small sum, but he was re-
quired to give the street car company a writ
of release exonerating them from any damage
she might do by her viciousness as part pay-
ment. Crazy Jane had taken this name from
the fact of acting like an insane animal when
being handled by her trainer, but was subdued
in about an hour, and driven by a lady for years
afterward. Her taming was effected by means
of a cord wrapped around the head back of the

84

CRAZY JANE. 85

ears, and in the mouth, bringing a pressure be-
tween the atlas and axis, or right behind the
first joint of the back-bone. While the mare
was standing like this she was handled all over,
blankets thrown on her, harness placed upon
her, tin cans rattled all around her; finally all
her feet being handled, she submitted. Then
being hitched up and driven in the heart of the
city without a kicking strap, check or blinds on
the bridle. She was sold to a Mr. Boyd, who
used her as a family driver. After about one
year’s time I went to see Mr. Boyd. On enter-
ing his yard I found a little girl about four
years old playing about the mare’s hind legs.
Calling Mr. Boyd’s attention to the fact of its
being dangerous, he simply told me that the
mare would not hurt the child, for they had
been in the habit of being together.

By

HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS
TRAINED.

Telegram had remained in the stable more
to be admired than used, for many months.
His feet had become long from want of use,
and it looked as though this fast and beautiful
horse had been laid aside as a back-number, his
days being over for the race track. When Tele-
gram had been used as a race horse, he was
the cause of no end of trouble for his drivers,
who could not get the horse to stand long
enough and receive orders from the judges, and,
as far as hitching him up, Mr. Denny Shea, the
owner, told me that seven men could not hitch
the horse up, so allowed Telegram to remain
standing. So far as his practical use in the city
was concerned, it could not be thought of, for
he would not stand long enough to be hitched
to a vehicle, and would not stop after once
starting until unhitched. In hitching him on
the race track, even this could only be done by
allowing him to jog along and pull the cart on
him, having snaps on all the harness to get him
hitched up. Although in this condition, he was
second to Flying Jib in a fast mile, and he him-
self had a mark of 2:124. But one day Mr.

86

HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS TRAINED. 87

Shea asked the writer if he would not try to
break Telegram of both habits, which was done
in twenty minutes, when strangers (stable men)
hitched Telegram to a light cart and left him
standing on the floor, no one holding him. This
was done simply by taking him by the halter
and tail, and turning him a number of times rap-
idly, letting go of the tail, saying sharply to the
horse “Whoa,” repeating on his other side. This
soon taught him to brace himself when he heard
the word “Whoa” spoken harshly. This was
done in a blacksmith shop, next door to the
livery stable owned by Fassett & Sons, in Chi-
cago. Many horsemen were in the livery stable
hoping to see how the preacher would break
this horse that had outdone the best trainers in
America. I may say that not a few of them
were surprised when the writer entered the sta-
ble with the horse, handing him over to the
stable men and telling them to hitch him up,
for the spectators who knew the horse were say-
ing among themselves that they had better stop
that fellow, “he doesn’t know what he has got
hold of.” Many expected to see Telegram at
his old tricks—rearing and plunging—but he
was hitched up without a movement. The
preacher wanted the doors opened. No one
ventured opening the doors, for they all claimed
to know what would happen to the horse and
cart. If they opened the door he would go

88 HOW THE RACE HORSE TELEGRAM WAS TRAINED.

plunging out into the street and much damage
would be done. Mr. Shea had the doors opened,
and the men looked at each other, wondering
what had happened. Some said the horse was
“doped,” others said he was mesmerized, and
there was much talk of hypnotism, and one col-
ored trainer said it was the spirits in the air. But
Telegram was driven successfully and stopped
seven times before leaving the run-way which
lead to the street. He was taken on the track
and put to all tests, and was owned and driven
by Mr. Frank Fowler, the bicycle manufacturer,
for more than two years, and driven on Chicago
boulevards, remaining quiet and docile. But the
spectators are still guessing how it was done.

MR. MULLEN’S FIRST APPEARANCE IN
CHICAGO.

At one of the horse sales in Chicago Mr.
Mullen introduced himself to a number of horse-
men, seeking colts to break, telling them that
he could break anything there was in the city,
it mattered not how wild the animal was, he
would take it and tame it so as one could pick
up all its feet or jump on its back and ride it
with nothing but a halter on, hitch it to a
vehicle with an open bridle, and drive it about
without any kicking strap. Some of the men
at the Stock Yards in Chicago, where this con-
versation took place, laughed at such asser-
tions being made by a young man. Some said
he was crazy, but, however, there are always
some men who are not willing to judge a man
before he has been given a hearing, so a trial
~was decided upon. A broncho had been run-
ning loose on Mr. Piper’s farm at Worth, IIl.,
no one being found who could halter the horse,
and thus he had had liberty for eighteen months
or more, eating good pasture and getting fat.
This was considered to be a good subject for the
young man who made such assertions. One
day about noon the task was undertaken. To

89

go MR. MULLEN’S FIRST APPEARANCE IN CHICAGO.

everybody’s surprise, the broncho walked into
a large box-stall with the writer close beside
him. The men gathered all about, looking
through cracks, knot-holes and such like, ex-
pecting every moment the preacher would get
his brains kicked out. The broncho kept walk-
ing round and round in the large stall, the
preacher following him. After many turns one
way, the horse was spoken to and stopped, and
then followed in the opposite direction, and
then, to everybody’s surprise, the broncho was
seen standing in about the center of the stall,
and the trainer placing a leather halter over his
head. But then the broncho would not lead,
and the men were asking how this preacher was
going to get the broncho to the stable, about
two hundred yards distant from where he was.
But to the surprise of every one, at the end of a
long rope he drove the broncho on before him,
placed the formidable rope rigging and tied him
to a post, leaving him there while all went to
lunch. After lunch the broncho was worked
out by the head and tail system, when he sur-
prised every one by what had been accomplished
in such a short time. The broncho’s feet had
all been handled, the author had sprung on his
back and shouted like an Indian, but there was
no more fear, harnessed him and hitched him
and drove out from the farm to the little town
of Worth and back. Then the broncho was put

MR. MULLEN’S FIRST APPEARANCE IN CHICAGO. gI

to work on a scraper, putting dirt on the Worth
race track. Although this horse had _ baffled
many, yet he was caught, halter-broken, tamed
and taught to work all in less than one hour.

2S

MR. MULLEN’S PUBLIC EXHIBITION IN
CHICAGO.

While taming vicious horses, many interest-
ing subjects were brought to Mr. Mullen. A
very fine gray horse, owned by the fire depart-
ment of Chicago, which had given no little
amount of trouble to the horseshoers and was
known as a very vicious anima., was brought to
the meetings. Many of the lecal horsemen came
to see this animal perform, but the author,
wrapping the cord on the horse’s head, holding
the halter in his hand, walked back towards the
horse’s tail, and asked the horseshoers and
horsemen with what foot the horse kicked. The
answer was, “Either foot,” but to their aston-
ishment, and especially of the blacksmith who
had to do the shoeing, the foot was picked up
by the author, held until he had shouted and
screeched, knocked and hammered on the foot
with a shoe, the blacksmith saying that he could
not do that. But when he tried he found the
animal made no resistance, which was a sur-
prise to them all. This case was enquired after
five months later, and the horse was found
to be kind and gentle.

g2

THE CALKIN’S BRONCHO.

The Calkin’s broncho was a bay about thir-
teen years old. In an exhibition, the writer
offered $25 if any man in Chicago would put a
halter on the same broncho’s head and jump on
his back. Although many hundred horsemen
were present, there was no offer made by any
one to accept. The pen in which the broncho
was had an iron wall at one side. This the
broncho kicked a hole in. By the use of an old
horse, as stated in ‘““How to Break Colts,” the
broncho was haltered and taken out of the pen,
and first subjected to the pull-back rigging. He
proved to be a very interesting character. He
would strike, kick or bite at any one who came
near him, and yet, with the front hobbles, he
was reduced to a state of subjection so he would
allow a person to jump on his back, but by no
means was he tamed. His treatment was re-
peated the second night by “the head and tail”
system, followed by laying him down, that is,
strapping up one front leg, drawing the head
back to the side and throwing him down; yet
he was only subdued for the time being. This,
indeed, proved to be the most stubborn case the
author has ever seen. He was handled the third

93

94 THE CALKIN’S BRONCHO.

time before the public, this time with the hind
hobbles, having his hind feet hobbled very short.
He proved to be still more vicious than any one
had any idea of. A blanket being brought and
shaken about him, merely to show him that no
one would hurt him, he snatched it with his
mouth, holding it between his teeth, and shook
it as a terrier would a rat. But having a sack
filled with straw, the author would strike him,
not hard, merely to draw his attention, follow
him with the blanket and sack and finally he
was subjected. Although not being put to hard
work, he became kind. The last time the author
saw him, a sixteen-year-old boy harnessed,
hitched and drove him.

In these public exhibitions the preacher raised
several bronchos by the hocks in less than half
an hour after he began to work on them, al-
though they had never been handled before, not
even as much as halter-broken, and drove suc-
cessfully every horse that was brought to him
by the public in the fall of 1900.

PICKING HIM UP.

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HORSE AND HOLINESS.

Evangelist Mullen Promises His Hearers a Sight
and Gives Also an Insight.

“Now, my friends, you have seen how easy it
is to handle and humble and bring to a state of
repentance even this vicious and heretofore un-
manageable horse, will you be more obdurate
when I try to lead you in the way of light?”

Broad-shouldered and brawny, with a chest
as thick and sold as an ice chest, his dark, fleshy
face lit up by a cheerful smile, Evangelist \Vil-
liam Mullen, who came to Colorado recently
from the Moody Bible Institute at Chicago,
turns from horse training to holiness in gne time
and two motions.

Evangelist Mullen’s method of attracting
crowds to his open air meetings is certainly
unique. He advertises that on a certain vacant
lot in the town or city in which he happens to
be he will show how the most unruly horse may
be trained and made docile so that his feet may
be handled and shod without a struggle. When
he has conquered the horse, Mr. Mullen begins
and expounds the gospel.

95

96 HORSE AND HOLINESS.

“T was born in Newcastle-on-Tyne, England,
33 years ago,” said Mr. Mullen, “and I’ve de-
voted nearly my whole life to horse training.
During recent years, however, I have done evan-
gelistic work in connection with horse train-
ing.”

Mr. Mullen sometimes, in order to pay his
expenses, forms a class in horse training and
demonstrates his system of conquering a horse.
Over at Ouray, he says, he overcame the vic-
ious tendencies of a horse thirteen years old,
and made it as gentle as a lamb. He wants
anybody who has a vicious horse to bring him
to one of the open-air meetings and see how
easily the animal can be brought to time.

Mr. Mullen preaches tomorrow night in the
open air near the South Park Congregational
Church. Before the religious services are com-
menced he will wrestle with the most intract-
able beast that is brought to him.—Denver
Daily News.

COW BOY RELIGION IN CHICAGO.

Illustrated by Taming Broncos to Amuse the
Congregation.

Chicago, Oct. 14.—“‘Instead of leading in the
staging of ‘Heaven Is My Home’ I will now
tame Flying Devil, a vicious bronco owned by
Brother Smith.”

This is the way Evangelist William Mullen,
who has come to Chicago to point out the
errors of the ways pursued by residents, begins
his meetings. The Rev. Mr. Mullen combines
the art of busting broncos with that of saving
wayward souls. He says religion nowadays has
to have some side attraction, and the large
crowds that he draws lead the conclusion that
he is right.

He holds his meetings in the open air, in
places that give him ample scope for his eques-
trian exhibitions. When he appears upon the
platform that is his pulpit, he is not a very min-
isterial looking figure. He wears a corduroy
coat, a sombrero and high-heeled boots.

The evangelist offers a prayer, then takes off
his coat. A bronco is led up in front of the

oF

98 COW. BOY RELIGION IN CHICAGO.

space reserved for the anxious bench, and the
audience is immediately interested. When the
wild horse is tamed and the owner has paid the
small fee which is the only collection taken up,
the bronco-busting evangelist puts on his coat,
wipes his heated brow with his handkerchief and
says his topic will be “Going to Hell at a 2:20
Gait.”

He has a keen eye and a pleasant face, and
when he opens the Bible to read a few verses
of Scripture there is not a person in the audi-
ence who has the hardihood to walk away before
the sermon. There is something in the preacher’s
manner that forbids any trifling. His exhibition
of what he can do with a horse has caused people
to respect him. Mullen was formerly a cowboy.
He attended one of Moody’s meetings while in
the East and became converted. He came to
Chicago and after a course of instruction at the
Moody Bible Institute, he began to preach. But
he found that men and women are not eager to
hear sermons. Advertisements of texts, no mat-
ter how sensational they happen to be, did not
draw crowds. It was necessary to add some hu-
man interest outside of that of soul saving, and
the horse-taming plan suggested itself. It has
proved successful and it is Mr. Mullen’s theory
that ministers who desire to gain a large hear-
ing should provide some good attraction to draw
those who need converting.—New York Sun.

PRESS EXTRACTS:

William Mullen, the horse trainer-evangelist
who has been giving daily exhibitions of horse-
breaking on the lake front, has attracted the
attention of a great many local horsemen, and
has successfully subdued a number of very bad
horses. His methods do not differ materially
from those employed by other horse trainers,
except that he does not handle them quite so
roughly and depends more on kindness to ac-
complish his purpose. He uses a special har-
ness of ropes and straps that enables him to
throw the horse to his knees whenever he fights
too hard, and that is practically the same sys-
tem that has been employed by many others.

Last Thursday he tackled a very badly spoiled
horse belonging to Joe Hartford, of the firm of
Hartford & Hall. The horse was a seven-year-
old gelding that came from the Haggin ranch
in California, and he had whipped half the horse-
breakers in this city. He would fight from the
minute he was hooked up until there was noth-
ing left of the cart or harness, and would strike,
kick, rear and plunge and throw himself time
and again until he was free. It took Rev. Mr.
Mullen just twenty minutes to make a lady’s
horse out of him, and when he finally got him

99
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IOO PRESS EXTRACTS.

subdued he tied the horse’s tail to the crossbar
of the cart, took off the breeching and tugs
and drove him with nothing on his head but a
halter, and before he got through with him he
made him stand hooked up, perfectly still, while
he preached a sermon to the crowd out of the
cart. Horsemen who have watched Mullen
every day say that he has more control over
horses than the great horse trainer, Gleason, the
man who has the reputation of being the
greatest in the world——Murray Howe, in Chi-
cago Times-Herald.

Wm. Mullen, the horse-trainer evangelist, ac-
companied by his wife and two children, arrived
in Holdrege last Saturday morning and has
since given exhibitions in horse training on the
streets, preaching the gospel during the entire
performance. Mullen is of Scotch-Irish parent-
age and a native of England. Though a man
weighing over 200 pounds, he was for a number
of years engaged in horse training in California,
at which he became an expert. He became con-
verted some years ago, however, later felt a call
to preach and with that idea in view he went to
Chicago and took a course at the Moody Instt-
tute. Since that time he has traveled and
preached, breaking horses the while as a source
of livelihood and as a means of advertising. Mr.
Mullen gave an exhibition at the corner of East

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avenue and Haydon street Monday evening, tak-
ing a horse unbroke to ride, and within a half or
three-quarters of an hour had the horse so com-
pletely under his control that he could ride him
about the street with merely a halter. He gave
another exhibition Tuesday night on the ball
diamond, where he will also give another next
Saturday afternoon. He spoke at the Baptist
church Wednesday evening. He will leave here
next Monday.—Holdrege, Neb., Progress.

Evangelist Mullen gave exhibitions of horse
training again yesterday on Haymarket square.
In the evening he broke a wild Indian mustang
from the West Lincoln Stock Yards. The pony
made lots of fun for the crowd, but it finally
gave up and the evangelist handled it as if it
were a kitten. In the afternoon a black mare
that had achieved some fame as a kicker was
‘taken in hand. She was refractory, but the
evangelist made speedy progress. He rode the
animal with a halter for a bridle and drove her
but the harness broke and all the work was
spoiled by another exhibition of kicking. The
animal will be taken in hand this afternoon
and the job finished. At the afternoon gather-
ing Mr. Mullen spoke at length of his life and
conversion. He will give only one exhibition
of horse breaking today, lasting from 3 to 6
o’clock.— Nebraska State Journal.

102 PRESS EXTRACTS.

In his street displays Mr. Mullen does not
supply himself with a paddock or an extra
horse, but subdues the “subject” simply with
his formidable rope rigging. It is not his plan,
he says, to tire the horse out or to inflict any
pain upon it, but simply to show the animal
that man is its master. In the South Omaha
pen before a crowd of drovers and stockmen,
most critical of judges, Mr. Mullen subdued the
wildest mustang in the yards, and even went so
far as to lift the animal’s rear parts from the
ground by the hocks. Physically, the trainer-
preacher is a giant and looks perfectly capable
of overpowering a broncho in a hand-to-hand
struggle. He weighs 200 pounds and was en-
gaged in training horses before he entered the
Moody Institute in Chicago—Omaha, Neb.,
Daily Bee.

Prof. Wm. Mullen, of Chicago, gave an inter-
esting exhibition of colt breaking last Saturday
afternoon opposite the Reporter office, taking a
“green” colt and breaking it to harness in ten
minutes’ time, bringing the youngster under
such perfect control that he could lift both its
hind feet with his hands at once without a pro-
test from it and drive it about the yard as he
pleased. He is evidently an expert in the horse
training line—Coldwater, Mich., Reporter.

SEE PAGE I04.

ABOUT FILLING A STABLE.

HOW THE TRAINER WHO CAN HARDLY WORK MORE THAN
FOUR HORSES NOW USED TO PUT A FEATHER EDGE ON
FORTY.

T’S gettin’ so nowadays,” said Jimmy, “that

a teamster can’t work but two hours an’ a

half a day without gettin’ sunstruck or

frost-bitten. It’s dead easy for me to re-
member when every one of them guys used to
earn what they got. Nowadays they ain’t one
in a million earns the pie an’ ice cream he throws
into his face. They want to ride just two hours
an’ a half an’ put in the rest of the day tellin’
the owner just why no teamster can’t train but
four hosses an’ do ’em justice. Ten years ago
every one of them boys could train forty head
an’ do it easy.”

“There must be some truth in that,” said
the Owner. “They tell me that during the time
that Independence, Ia., was the trotting horse
Mecca, some of the trainers located out there
used to train fully that many.”

“T wonder if they didn’t,” replied Jimmy.
“Hussey will tell you himself that him and

104

STABLE CONVERSATION. 105

Charley Thompson, an’ McHenry, an’ Terbush,
an’ a lot more used to train forty head before
breakfast. Them was the days when any good
teamster would bet you even money that he
could train 200 head, an’ train ’em to a finish,
at $2.50 per day. In ’g1 it was me workin’ for
Saunders over at Cleveland when a bunch blew
in that was headed for Williamsville, an’ I made
an entry. Every boy in the biz was headed that
way. It was worse than Cripple Creek or the
Klondike.

“T passed up a right good office, but I says
to: Red Kennedy, ‘Red,’ I says, ‘I can live
through the summer if I don’t see that kite
track, but they say there’s a lot of that Axtell
money floatin’ around that Iowa country that’s
easy to get.’ I signed with McHenry soon as
I unloaded. Mac has five barns full of racers
an’ more comin’.on every train. Thompson has
just as many, an’ Williams, an’ Hussey, an’ the
rest of the top jocks has about eighty apiece.

“They all had so many hosses that when a
sucker writes in an’ wants one trained they try
to stop him by tellin’ him the price is three
bucks a day, owner to furnish water, feed, swipe
an’ boots with the hoss. That didn’t stop ’em.
Every morning McHenry gets up an’ asks a
clerk how many come in durin’ the night. He
keeps tags on’ em all, so he can tell one from

106 STABLE CONVERSATION.

another, an’ when a hoss loses his tag he has to
join the unknown string.

“George Eggleson was second jock, an’ he
has ten helpers to work them that couldn’t get
around the track before dinner. Thompson an’
Terbush had a lot of overflow hosses out in the
sheds, an’ one mornin’ Thompson is just gettin’
up behind a hoss when Terbush commences to
holler, “‘You’ve got one of mine,’ he says. “You’re
another,’ says Thompson; ‘this hoss is one I’ve
had a week.’ ‘I’ve had him a month,’ says Ter-
bush, ’an’ if you don’t put him back in that stall
I'll have you pinched,’ he says. ‘You’re out of
your mind,’ says Thompson, ‘an’ if you'll step
over here an’ look at his tag I’ll prove it to you.’
Then they look at his tag an’ found he didn’t be-
long to either one of ’em.

“Nowadays if them trainers had strings like
that some of the hosses wouldn’t get worked
once a month, but in them days they got up in
the mornin’ and honed ’em all. All of ’em made
money an’ earned every cent of it. The graft
was good every day in the year, but the velvet
harvest was the tin-cup meetin’ every fall, when
the wise teamsters charged twenty-five bucks
for drivin’ a hoss against the clock. McHenry
hired hisself out to sight so many of ’em that
they kept ’em waitin’ in a string a mile long, an’
a couple of husky blanket carriers picked him

ABOUT FILLING A STABLE. 107

up an’ throwed him from sulky into another at
the finish of every heat, just like they used to
toss Nelly Burk from one saddle to another
when she was ridin’ a fifty-mile race.”

“IT suppose you had to take care of more
than one horse in those days,’ remarked the
Owner.

“Not in fly time,” replied Jimmy, “but I
took care of thirty head once in the winter
time.”

“Thirty head! How could you do it?”

“Well, Sundays I fed ’em hay, Mondays I
fed ’em oats, Tuesdays I watered ’em, Wednes-
days I cleaned out the stalls, Thursdays I fed
"em bran, Fridays I counted ’em to see if they
was all there, and Saturdays I rested up for the
next week. Everybody had to hustle in them
days, but it’s gettin’ so lately that nobody is
strong enough to put in more than half time.”

From Stable Conversation. By Permission
of The Horse Review Co., Chicago.

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