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fF HOW TO
KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

eowWN OR COUNTRY.

GIVING

FULL INSTRUCTION” a

FOR CONSTRUCTING A

WINDOW were
AND THE
Most Approved Methods for Raising ©
Beautiful Flowers at Home.

A COMPLETE AND USEFUL
BOOK.

New YorRE: ye pee

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

34 AND 36 NorTH MOORE STREET.

~*~ " oy ;
36 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year |
3 ar oe * |
ERANK TOUSEY, ; > ae

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Was ing!

—

CON de NUTS.

PNTRODUCTORY CHAPTER .. 2. 2%
CHAPTER I.
THE MINIATURE GREENHOUSE. . 2. » » «© -«

CHAPTER IL

HOW TO KEEP WINDOW-PLANTS HEALTHY . 2. « «© e«

CHAPTER III.

WILD FERNS AND THEIR CULTIVATION (SCOLOPENDRIUM
MEE EEPM MD Sesto nee aldo igh eg ep iw ety, shpat te

CHAPTER IV.

> *\

WILD FERNS AND THEIR CULTIVATION (SCOLOPENDRIUM
VULGARE) (Contiuued)

CHAPTER V.

_ WILD FERNS AND THEIR CULTIVATION (POLYPODIUM VUL-

GARE)

CHAPTER VI.

_ CHOSEN VARIETIES OF FERNS . . . . . .

4

iil

PAGE

10

12

17

24

25

iv i CHAPTER VII.

PAGE

THE CULTIVATION OF FERNS: 60 6 6) <0): 0 see

CHAPTER VIII.

MOSSES SUITABLE FOR WINDOW CULTIVATION. . . « .

CHAPTER IX.

FLOWERING PLANTS FOR WINDOW CULTIVATION . .. .

CHAPTER X.

THE CULTIVATION OF SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS. .. .

CHAPTER XI.

SPRING-FLOWERING PLANTS. « ~«: « 8: © of 5 6) pipluee

~

CHAPTER XII.

SUMMER PLANTS : THE GERANIUM AND FUCHSIA eae

CHAPTER XIII.

PROPAGATION OF THE FUCHSIA AND GERANIUM... .

CHAPTER XIV.

AUTUMN-FLOWERING PLANTS... © ld0.0) wks Jee

CHAPTER XV.

AUTUMN-FLOWERING PLANTS : CHINESE PRIMULA, OR CHINA
PRIMROSE, 60040 oe ie. eicieens ee, cana sen en

CHAPTER XVI.

CULTIVATION OF PLANTS IN WINDOW-BOXES . .. « «

29

33
35
38
41

44

46

How to Keep a Window
Garden.

INTRODUCTORY.

As my little book has been written chiefly for the indus-
trial classes, the plainness of language aimed at required no
apology from me; but in speaking of flowers, one can hardly
belp rising to a somewhat higher level. As we gaze on their
exquisite beauties, purer thoughts arise as we contemplate
them in the quiet lanes and woods, and fain would have them
to dwell with us at home. The ‘‘wee modest daisy ” called
forth a lay, and the analogy which the poet drew remains,
life-like, in our memory to the present day, and will continue
to do so as long as that ‘‘crimson-tipped flower” bedecks
the mead. 4
® God made the first garden, and in looking upon the hum-
blest weed that grows, we see in it the handiwork of the Great
Architect; and although the exact site of the Garden of Eden
be obscure, yet Paradise is everywhere, and waiteth while
man willeth. Beautiful flowers are spread out in a boundless
field for our pure enjoyment, and their localities are as varied
as.their hues. ‘The corn-cockle and the poppy delight to
revel in the sun; but the fern loves the solitude of the grove,
in the twilight of the forest the moss is its sweet companion.
Childhood is the type of innocence, and it is always childhood
with the flowers. Let us wander back to the haunts of early
youth; when we list we find the blue-bell and the daffodil, as
in days of yore—divine monitors teaching in silence. Who
can behold them without delight? By what mind are they
counted as a mere daub-show, blooming and fading, for no
end ? Man has done muchfor man in giving him enjoyable
recreations, but 41 his efforts fall short of the holy recreation
which the Almighty has placed within reach of the humblest
individual.

In addressing my fellow working-men, I would first ask
have you a love for flowers? If you have, I think that Ican

6 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

help you to increase your enjoyment from such love. Should
it happen that your love of flowers has been extinguished Ly
a thousand drawbacks, I will do my best to rekindle the old
flame. Perhaps it will burn brighter than ever. On the
ether hand, if you have no love for flowers—no love for those
innocent companions which are never tired of waiting upon
us—this biindness must result from sheer ignorance. I
weuldask you to reflect. An hour spent in sweet communion
is worth hundreds spent in dissipation. Most earnestly do I
entreat you to enter this beautiful department of nature, not
merely a8 spectators, but as possessors.

It is no dreamy pleasure that [would infuse into your
minds such as we receive when reading of the gorgeous
splendor of Eastern cities, where festoons of beautiful flowere
creep along the quaint balconies, and shoot up ronnd the
doors and curious windows; where luscious fruit, hanging in
the rosy sunshine, wantonly crush their delicacies on the lips
of the dark-eyed Eastern beauties. The atmosphere of our
smoky habitations forbids the existence of such enjoyments;
but reasonable hope may be held out for the embellishment of
windows of all dwellings, however situated, to be decorated
with some form of vegetation. In crowded cities where the
dwellers may nearly shake hands with one another across the
narrow street that divides their habitations, where the genial
rays of the sun never penetrate, and where the impurities of the
air offend the dullest sense, a few plants in the windows help
to neutralize these facts; and we have only to search the in-
exhaustible treasure with which the Creator has clothed the
universe to fnrnish us with something beautiful for our win-
dows. What a health-giving pleasure lies before us, free for
the participation of all; a cup forever overflowing with all
that is lovely is held toward us by untiring hands, and how-
ever freely we may drink of it, no grudge awaits our draught,
for the love of our Creator for us is infinite.

In advocating the culture of window-plants as a source
from which no little enjoyment can be received, I am fully
aware that all those who live in large towns labor under
too many disadvantages, to enter with any spirit on this inno-
cent and instructive recreation. To many the greatest
obstacle is knowledge how to grow window-plants, and the

want of convenient windows for their cultivation. If these —

obstacles could not be overcome, I might give up the’ task
of leading you forward to Flora’s temple; bit when thousands

are known in the most unlikely localities, under the -most .
adverse circumstances, to cull no little pleasure from her —

bounteous gifts, it gives me the greatest assurance to place
before you a practical method for acquiring a cultural knowl-

~~

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 7

: »
edge of plants, and especially to adapt convenient windows
for their cultivation.
FOR TOWN AND COUNTRY.
If I did not know that certain plants, with a little care and
attention, might be made to grow in windows where the
Strageiing rays of light from the blue vault of heaven are
toned down to a dingy hue, as well as in mansions where fair
lawns stretch undulatingly away to the far-off hills, and um-
brageous trees wave in the open sunshine, depend upon it I
_ would never have undertaken this task. The greatest doubt
with which my mind is possessed, is to be able to persuade
some who are very dubious on the subject to begin the culti-
vation of window-plants—those who can see no beauty in the
quiet enjoyment of a pipe and a glass of home-brewed by
their own window-side, but leave all for the tinsel happiness
of the noisy tavern. But, after all, I am solaced with the
thought that my little book may be of some service to those
who have already joined the pursuit of floriculture as a recre-
~ ation.
Under present circumstances, the artisan, or humble
florist, however much he may have the love of flowers at
heart, is much restrained in his ambition to grow a few
plants, from the fact that his window affords little scope for
their cultivation. At the best the cultivators of window-
plants have but room for two or three specimens, which are
either placed on the window sill, or on brackets higher up
the window, circumstances which almost bid defiance to any
training of a plant except a one-sided specimen. Then,
again, the plants are continually receiving the dust of the
household, which, combined with the full glare of gas by
night, very soon brings the plants to assume a sickly appear-
ance, entailing considerable care and attention on the part
of the cultivator to keep them in a healthy condition. That
being the case, it is not to be wondered at why the cultivators
of window-plants proceed with the pursuit in a blow hot, blow
cold sort of way. When the markets are teeming with the
attributes of spring, they are induced to purchase a plant or
two. Exultingly the plants are carried home, assigned the
sunniest place in the window, and duly killed with kindness,

the window remaining for the rest of the season without a
semblance of vegetation. :

Therefore, the horticulturist who would cater to spread a
taste for window gardening, ought to have his attention
arrested by these existing circumstances, and beside giving
the housenold florist a knowledge how to grow the plants he
seeks to cultivate, it would be well at the same time to
show him some construction of the window which would

8 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

give greater facilities to the cultivation of plants, and also
obviate some of the drawbacks mentioned. This I have
endeavored to do by bringing before your notice the window
or miniature greenhouse, which will not only be found
admirably adapted for the cultivation of a few plants all the
year round, but also an ornament to the mansion as well as
the cottage. The miniature greenhouse will be found more
convenient and better adapted for growing plants than either
the aquarium or the glass shade, which are continually in
the way, and require great attention in keeping clean and fit
to be looked at. But the greenhouse being attached to the
outside of the window is out of the way; the plants get more
air; they are easier examined, and more securely shut off
from the]gaseous air and dust of the household. Besides,
the miniature greenhouse, when adorned with a few plants,
would mend the prospect of many a dwelling by blocking out
offensive objects, which is certainly not the least of its ad-
vantages. - .

I take no credit to myself for the invention of the miniature
greenhouse. In the western parts of Scotland they have
been in use for several years. And it was while running
barefoot reluctantly to school, in the old town of Edinburgh,
some twenty years ago, that I first saw one of these ingeni-
our contrivances. I had a school companion, whose father
was a shoemaker, and there was no greater delight for me
than to go with my companion and watch his father fashion
the shoe upon the last. And it seems but yesterday since I
heard the song of the blackbird that hung in a wicker cage
near the window, and which was always merriest when the
shoemaker beat the leather with his flat-headed hammer.
Then, too, as if not to be behind the blackbird, would the
plants in the little greenhouse seem to dance to the beat of
the hammer. I was just chin-tall enough for the window-
sill, and to my young mind what mystery hung around that
fairy-looking dwelling, into which I earnestly gazed. And
although no impulse was awakened within me to inquire of
the shoemaker how he came to think of his little greenhouse,
or where he had drawn his pattern from, yet impressions
were indelibly made.

And now, in looking back through the telescope of the
mind, those impressions, like a far-off landscape, be-
come distinctly visible—the shoemaker, the blackbird, and
the little greenhouse, stand out in bold relief. And where was
this little greenhouse, think you? It was attached to the out-
side-of a back window five stories high. And whether it was
intended to shut out offensive objects, or ag a hobby, it is no
matter; there it was, giving pleasure to the shoemaker, who

“f

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 9

to my Imagination, was the happiest man on earth. I even
went so far as to say that I myself would be a shoemaker,

and have a blackbird and a little greenhouse. But somehow

or other the garments of the mind are easier to change than
those of the body; and when it became time for me to leave
school, which was no sooner than I wanted, the happy shoe-
maker and his dwelling gave way to objects of a more excit-
ing ndature.

Some will think that the shoemaker and the little green-
house are eminently adapted for each other—3o0 they are—
and give up hope, thinking that the plants could not sustain
life, from the attention they could give them. That’s a false
fear begotten from hesitation, which if suffered to remain cor-
rodes the best of intentions. Plants will sustain life wonder-
fully with but little attention, even they themselves will strug-
gle for an existence, and it is only when we become unnatu-
ral in our treatment of them that they sometimes leave us.
I have seen plants in some windows where I could have burst

into the house and gone to work for the sake of those plants

by washing off the dust which had accumulated on their
leaves; others I could have put away in some out-of-the-way
corner, quietiy to rest for a season, being well assured; when
awakened, they would bud, shoot and bloom with double
vigor.

I have also noticed the uncomfortable position of plants in
a great many windows. And when I have seen them with
their leaves pressed hard against the window frames, I have
always been reminded of a boy pressing his nose against the
window of a confectioner’s shop, as eager to get in as the
plants were to get out. You may be sure, that when the leaves
of the plant are pressing against the window, that the habit
of the plant is spoiling fast; the leaves which lean against the
glass not only hurt themselves, but they also prevent the
light from reachinz other parts of the plant, which in the
struggle to be as near the light as their neighbors become
very much attenuated, presenting plenty of leaves to the
passer by, but nothing but long, bare, wiry-looking branches
to the cultivator. Now if those plants had been turned round
now and then, so as to expose every part of the plant suc-
cessively to the light, the branches would have become nicely
balanced, and the outline of the plants would have been ad-
mired as much as the skill of the cultivator.

I donot remember all the sorts’ of plants which my ac-

-quaintance the shoemaker had in his little greenhouse, but
_ there was one which hung from the roof and which pos-

sessed great attraction for me. This plant had roundish,

_ bronzy-green, hairy-looking leaves, and it threw out a num-

10 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

ber of red-like threads, which hung down over the sides of
the pot and to the extremity of each a little plant was at-
tached; then there were two or three other plants which
rested on the bottom of the little greenhouse, strange, dumpy-
looking fellows, all prickles and points, and very seldom
seen among the fashionable plants of the present day. The
shoemaker, I will remember, called the one which was sus-
pended from the roof ‘‘ Aaron’s Beard.” The others were one
or two sorts of cacti, and a variegated aloe, all of which I
have since learned will grow in the same flower-pot for yearg,
and require but little attention beyond being kept clean, and
receiving a little water during the summer season.

As there are hundreds of plants quite suitable for window
culture, the plan adopted in the following pages, will be
found to meet the requirements of all classes. Beside ex-
plaining the construction of the miniature greenhouse, and
how to make certain windows, where the aid of the green-
house is not available, calculated for the culvation of plants,
they will also show how each may be adorned with a few in-
expensive plants in spring, summer, autumn and winter;
and when these are done with, how a few varieties of a
choicer and somewhat costlier kind can succeed them.

Having offered these few introductory hints on WINDOW
GARDENING, I trust that my unpretending little work on this,
one of the simplest modes of cultivating flowers, may find
favor and indulgence from those who, like myself, cherish a
warm affection for these precious gifts of a beneficent Provi-
dence; but who, from scanty means, and the necesssity of
dwelling in the confined streets of the metropolis, or other
large towns, find it difficult to gratify a taste as natural as
i “3 oy and elevating—one, in fact, ‘‘ that leaves no sting

ehind.

CHAPTER I.
THE MINIATURE GREENHOUSE.

GIVEN on the cover, resembles, as near as possible to my
mind’s eye, that of the shoemaker’s described in the preced- |
ing chapter. And although I cannot recall any data regard-
ing its construction, ventilation, etc., as the opportunity
passed away long before I ever thought of taking notes of
useful facts, yet I have managed to construct fsuch a green-
house, which shall be my guide in the present instance.

In offering you these instructions, I must request you to
look back to the drawing. You will perceive that the picture ©
does not interfere with the sliding of the window-sashes, and ©

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. ll

that the ventilation of the dwelling and greenhouse are inde-
pendent of each other—circumstances which should not be

lost sight of, whatever modification the little ,conservatory
may undergo. My window is 5 feet high and 3 1-2 feet
broad, and the greenhouse attached to it is 3 feet high and
2 1-3 feet broad, with a front elevation of 2 feet.

The ventilator at the top of the greenhouse is merely a
piece of board, hinged to the back piece, and held open by
means of a little hook and staple. In order that a constant

stream of air may be passing through the structure, several

little holes are pierced in the bottom, which may be covered
or left uncovered at pleasure. The whole, except the bot-

tom, is firmly dovetailed together, and secured to the win-

dow in the following manner:

To each side of the window, cn the outside, and close to
the window-sill, is fixed an upright board, three-quarters of
an inch thick, and broad enough to lie flush with the outer
face of the wall. These uprights are made more secure by
means of a cross batten at the top, which should be made to
fit as tight as possible, and be well driven home. Two
brackets, with projecting arms of two feet, for the green-
house to rest upon, are screwed to the bottom sill of the
window.

This being done, the greenhouse is lifted on to the brackets
and screwed to them, also to the uprights, which, it must. be
remembered, are part of the breadth of the greenhouse.
Therefore an allowance for them must be made accordingly.

If all the foregoing details are done in a workmanlike
manner, the stoutest gale will never disturb the miniature
greenhouse. But if you cannot construct it yourself, any
respectable joiner will furnish you with such a one asI have
described, at a very small price. My own has cost me nearly
ten dollars; but they could be made still cheaper. —

Dwelling-houses with bow-windows seem to me to he well
adapted for the cultivation of flowers. And where the
recess could be spared, the bow-window, with little expense, _
inight be converted into an elegant little greenhouse: For
such a purpose all that is required is merely a little wooden
or wire stage for the plants to stand upon, and a curtain
hanging square with the room, to shut the plants off at night
from the gaseous air, or when dusting the apartment. The

stage might be constructed in the following manner:

;
=

The shelf of the stage should be about two feet from
the floor, and placed so that one end would be atthe center
of the window, and the other nearly square with the room.
Thejother shelves of the stage, should rise by steps from the
center one, to each side of the window. One center shelf,

~

ae

12 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

with three or four others running from it to each side of the
window, would give the cultivator space for the purpose ot
growing a number of plants. And by constructing the stage
in this manner, the apartment would not be so much dark-
ened as if the plants were allowed to stand fair before the
window. No doubt some people are to be found altogether
against having plants in the window, from the very reason
that the already dark apartment would be darker still. But
would this darkness, dreaded by them, not be akin to the
sweet gloom of the forest; or again, if the windows were full
of the noonday sun, would it not be better to let the fierce
rays of that luminary be subdued by flickering into the dwell-
ing through graceful fronds and fragrant flowers, than draw-
ing blinds, however beautiful they might be? What artificial
blind could be compared to that natural one, which presents
such a boundless field for change and recreation ?

With regard to window-boxes, a great many people secure
no little pleasure in growing a few flowers in boxes placed
outside of the window, and that enjoyment might be increased
greatly by protecting the flowers from the scorching heat of
the sun and heavy rains. And for that purpose we have only
to copy the shop-keeper in his efforts to prevent the sun from
spoiling the wares in his windows. How much more com-
fortable the plants would feel, we need hardly say, while in
these extremities, to be under the protection of a little canopy.
For this, all that would be required might be had for a trifling
sum. A roller with a chintz blind, fixed half way up the
window, and two projecting rods, just above the flowers,
with a piece of cord through the end of each, to draw down
the blind, with the common window-blind fixture to draw it
up, and the job is complete. The drawing down of the blind
of an evening, and in cold weather in early spring, would
greatly prosper the establishmeut of spring-flowering bulbs,
bringing them into flower much sooner, and also making
them last longer. And by the same economy the season of
summer-flowering plants would be materially lengthened and
extended into late autumn—advantages which speak loudly
in favor of giving flowers in window-boxes that simple, yet
efficient, protection.

But, after all, my favorite is the miniature greenhouse,
possessing, as it does, great advantages, over all other appli-
ances for window gardening. And when it is got up neatly,
and nicely painted, using good plain 21 oz. glass, the little
structure embellishes the habitation wonderfully. But some
may exclaim, ‘‘ Mr. or Mrs. So-and-So has got a greenhouse,”
with asneer. We say that this is a vanity which should have
no place in the greenhouse except for the flower’s sake.

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN, 13

In some residences where the apartments are heated by hot-
’ water apparatus, I see nothing to prevent the miniature
greenhouse from being heated by the same means. Hot
water can be laid almost anywhere by experienced workmen,
and a couple of inch pipes led round the bottom of the
greenhouse, would give sufficient heat to resist a great
«mount of frost, and thus some of the more choice greenhouse,
if not stove plants, might be cultivated. With reference to
(lwellings of the working classes, the builders of cottage
»roperty might, by introducing the miniature greenhouse on
tinishing the house, obtain more rent, and also be the means
of leading the dwellers into a more happy and contented kind
of life. Whata contrast to the existing state of things,
when their happiness, as it were, passes through a sieve
shaken by their own hands, leaving nothing but lumps of
sorrow for the rest of their days. At any rate, the principle
1s worth trying.

How cheerful it is to pass along a street where the houses
have small gardens in front, and to see in the windows of
those houses a fuchsia or a geranium striving to catch a
glimpse of the sun. Whata heightened tone it would give
to the picture to introduce a miniature greenhouse, gaily
dressed with some of nature’s simplest but sweetest gems.
To pass along such places in winter, when vegetation may
be said to be dead, how cheerful to behold a few of our hardi-
est ferns decorating the habitations; or in early spring to
see the sweet-smelling hyacinth and the golden crocus peep-
ing forth; or in summer, the fuchsia with a hunared ear-
drops, and the geranium, so pictorial, looking fresh and fair
within their dwelling, when all without waits the refreshing
shower with parched impatience; or, in the eleventh hour of
the season, to see the last link of the floral year displayed in
the white and yellow chrysanthemum, and all the while
sweet ferns interspersed between. What a beautiful trait of
nature it is to give us innocent flowers for all seasons. To
my mind there should be a sort of a co-partnership between
the song of the-bird, the bloom of the flower, and the mind
of man. The flower’s capital is innocence, the song of the
bird is gratitude, but, alas! the human mind is a selfish
agent, carrying his independence so far as to care for neither
the fragrance of the one nor the melody of the other. To
many of the latter the display of beautiful flowers is mere
dumb-show, and the sweet song of birds a chattering con-
fusion; and they would ask how should such things help a
man on in the world? innocence is only for childhood.

But there is something apart from the innocence of flowers
which man might with profit make emblematic of himself in

14 HoW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

the struggle for existence which runs through nature. Tak-
ing man for example, who greatly smiles when lit up by the
sun of prosperity, but when darkened by ill-fortune he
shrinks like a withered leaf under the foot of his kindred.
Think you, if such were to consider the flowers, and try to
be like them—to smile ai all seasons—to be like the snow-
drop, peeping forth ere the snow has flown to the icy north;
to measure their humbleness by that little flower, would their
strength lie in a withered leaf? Far from it, they would be
more likely to bud, even like ‘‘ Aaron’s rod.” We can find a
type for us all among the flowers. If we wish to be proud,
we have only to cultivate the poppy. But if we wish to live
and be respected, let us be mindful of the daisy, the prim-
rose, and the snowdrop. The last three live in melody of
song. But where is the rhyme that measures the poppy ?—
“*Pleasures are like poppies spread,
You seize the flower, the bloom is fled.”’

Let us look at the mighty oak of the forest for a true type
of society. See the lusty, sinewy limbs of the lower part.
How they stretch forth their brawny arms, ready to meet the
actiun of the stoutest gale. How thev revel in their strength.
See how gallantly they mount upward, and join issue with
those above, aad they in turn with those still higher; each
with the other making compact, and lending embellishment
to the whole. Yet from all parts of the tree sapless twigs
are continually falling to the ground. Hark, there’s a crash.
A bough, fretful-like at those above, and unbeholden-like to
those around, sprung aloof thinking to reach the summit
without encountering the various crossings which lay in its
path, is caught by the storm, snapped asunder and dashed to
the ground, without even being caught in the embrace of
sympathizing friends.

But to resume more practical matter let me say, that with
the miniature greenhouse, and a sovereign a year to spare
for flowers, the household florist need never be without a
plant in flower any week of the fifty-two. It is even won-
derful what a display of flowers can be had,-as I will show,
for the expenditure of a few shillings. But before proceeding
with what to grow and how to grow, a few remarks relating
to plant life in general will not be out of place. In fact, it
is almost necessary to do so. As many no doubt have plants
a gh in their windows, of which I may not speak individ-
ually.

CHAPTER II.
HOW TO KEEP WINDOW-PLANTS HEALTHY.
As with man cleanliness is maintained to be next to godli-

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 15

ness, so with plants, cleanliness is essential to healthiness.
Therefore, whatever plants may be growing in the window,
the dust of the dwelling must not be allowed to accumulate
on their leaves week after week; they should be carefully
washed every now and then with ‘a sponge and a little tepid
Water.

In doing this, do not take hold of the leaf with’ the fingers
as with a pair of pincers, but let the footstalk ofthe leaf slip
in betwixt the fingers of the left hand, and the back of the
leaf lie on the palm of the hand. Then apply the sponge
until the leaf be properly cleansed. In sponging the feathery
fronds of ferns the task is rather more delicate. Let a por-
tion of the frond lie on the palm of the hand, and with the
sponge moderately wet, press the frond against the hand
gently, but do not rub the Sponge up and down, and shifting
the hand forward with the operation until the frond is finished.
This sponging is to keep the leaf free from dust, and to wash
any scaly insects from off the leaves, or fronds. These in-
sects generally lodge on the back of. the leaves, near to the
midrib, and should have no quarter whatever from the culti-
vator. There is also another insect commonly called the
green fly, which is a great pest to certain plants, and if suf-
fered to remain, will wholly ruin the plants. Spring-flower-
ing plants, such as the calceolaria and cineraria, are par-
ticularly subject to this annoyance; also the show geraniums,
and the young shoots of the fuchsia, as well as many other
soft-wooded plants are infested with this fly. The species
being rapidly propagated, the insect should be destroyed im-
eee on being detected, and for this the sponge is of no
avail.

The best and surest way of destruction is to fumigate the
plants infected with pure tobacco smoke. The non-smoker
may do this very effectually in the following manner: With
the stalk or runt of a cabbage, or any similar object, make
a sort of horn, and fix the narrow end on the nozzle of
the fire bellows. Then push a little shag tobacco into the
horn, and place asmall, red-not cinder on “the top of it, and
a little more tobacco on the cinder, and with the ventilators
of the greenhouse shut, and the window down to the mouth
of the horn, blow the bellows until the greenhouse is densely
full of smoke, in which state it should remain for two or three
hours. When the smoke has cleared away examine the
plants, and if the fumigation has done its work, the insects
will be lying on their backs on the leaves and round about,
perhaps not dead, but so as they can be easily shook or
blown from the plants. After that has been done, sweep the
remains into the dust-pan, and the execution is completed.

16 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

Those who have not the advantage of the miniature green-
house must devise some other means to retain the smoke
round about the plant. An empty box, or a large paper bag
to envelop the plant would be equally suitable.

After fumigation, and the insects are cleared away, the
plants, if not in flower, might receive a gentle watering over
head with advantage.

Thus far I have shown how to keep plants healthy by
keeping them clean. Let us see what else they require
to keep them in that state:—Air, food, light, training,
and rest. I might have included the first two under
food alone; but it suits the present purpose better for
them to be separated. To keep plants pent up for weeks
and months without any air but what comes bouncing in
when the door is opened, or whistling tbrough the
keyhole when closed, is not the way to keep plants healthy.
All our hardy ferns, all spring-flowering plants, all summer
geraniums and autumn chrysanthemums, love to feel the
freshness of the air; in fact, it is their very life. And although
the freshness of the air may be said to be very seldom abroad
in our large towns, yet, by keeping the leaves of the plants
clean, they are the more able to breathe of what is going
but they must first have the opportunity of doing so, and
that frequently, to keep them healthy. We now come to the
food of plants—soil and water.

It cannot be expected that window-gardeners are able to
pay the same attention to the food of plants as is practiced
by professional gardeners; though I must say, all books
hitherto written for the guidance of amateur gardeners
would lead one to think otherwise. Now, in the matter of
soil and water —soil especially—we know that the amateur is
placed at a very great disadvantage in comparison with the
professional gardener; and to recommend a certain strictness,
or the plants will not grow, is quite out of character. It is
quite true that certain plants require a certain soil to grow
in and be well; in fact, we see that in nature. On the other
hand, it is as true that we see miscellaneous plants growing
in what may be termed miscellaneous soil. Therefore, to
meet the case of the window-gardener, the better plan would
be to adapt the circumstances to the man, not the man to the
circumstances, by giving him a certain soil for a number of
plants, and by telling him to water the plants when dry, be
it morning, noon, or night, unless when the plants are at
rest.

A soil which would be the most suitable and the most
come-at-able, for all window-plants to grow in, can be found
in any locality where there is a hedge growing. Go along

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. iy

the side of the hedge by the roadside, and pull up the first
big tuft of grass, and shake the soil from it and add a
handful or two of sand( silver-sand, if possible, bought at
the seed-shop), and the mixture will suit almost any window-
plant requiring soil for its cultivation. But the better
plan would be to send to the nursery for some sandy,
loamy soil, and the purchaser will be accommodated with
as much soil as will pot all the plants in the window or the
miniature greenhouse, for twenty-five cents.

The operation of potting will be treated of in a subsequent
chapter; but I may here mention that good drainage placed
in the bottom of the flower-pot, so that the water may run
freely away from the soil, and the soil put down equally round
about the roots, and to be of one uniform firmness, are the
chief and successful features in potting all plants. Giving
the plants good drainage, and a nice sandy loam to grow in,
counteracts the evils arising from the plants getting too much
water, to which window plants are commonly subjected, and
are thereby rendered unhealthy, from the soil becoming sour.
In fact, this plan is adopted by some nurserymen, in order to
prevent the same evil; which fact I learned in the following
manner :—I went to work at one of those nurseries, and one
morning a miscellaneous collection of plants was pointed out
to me which required re-potting. Relying confidently on my
own notions, I cast my eyes over the plants, and proceeded
to the potting shed to prepare the soil, etc., thinking in my
mind that I would make the plants comfortable for once. So
I hurried away with the barrow for a bit of this soil and a bit
of that. My good intentions were checked rather abruptly
by the foreman telling me to give the plants all one soil, and
be sure to put plenty of sand into it; ‘‘for,” says he, ‘‘ our
fellows are very careless in watering ‘the plants, whether they
want it or not.”

Poor fellows, in spring and summer, however willing
(sometimes they might be more so), they have not time to
examine the plants minutely, and for the sake of expedition,
waiter the plants without due care, straight forward, one by
one. Thus it was that I got the cue about putting plenty of
sand in the soil, and in these days of special manures, which
give such miraculous results, the sandy soil can be easily en-
richea by the application of some of those fertilizers; for
instance, a handful of Peruvian guano, dissolved in water,
and given to the plants about once a week, in the growing
season, would promote a healthy vigor in the plants. In pot-
ting plants, be careful to cast out any worms, however small,
from the soil, for if potted with the plant, the worms will
soon become a great fact, twisting in all directions about the

18 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

root, beside living on the fat of the soil, which is very hurt-
ful to the health of the plant. i

Just fancy having the naked foot in a peck of soil, and a
long worm twisting between the toes, and having no power
to prevent the gyrations of the tormentor. I have heard
people exclaim, when some of the window-plants have been
doing badly, ‘‘I’m sure there’s a worm at the root of that
plant;” but they have done nothing to ascertain the fact.
Thus the plants have gone on in this statefor months. To
ascertain whether there be a worm at the root of the plant or
not, turn the plant upside down, with the neck of the plant
between the fingers of the left hand, and the right hand on
the bottom of the pot, give the edge of the pot a tap or two
on the window sill, and the ball of soil containing the roots
will come out. Ifthe fancied worm is there, several little
channels will be made all round the sides of the ball, and,
perhaps, the maker will be coiled into a lump close to the
side. Fork him out at once, and fill up any vacancies with a
little fresh soil. In re-potting the plant, give the bottom of
the pot a tap or two on the floor, to settle the ball nicely
down. If no channels or little holes are visible on the sides
of the ball, it is safe to conclude there is no worm, and the
unhealthiness of the plant must arise from other causes.
With respect to watering plants—the position of the minia-
ture greenhouse, and windows in general, being a dry one—
in summer, the plants will require to be almost daily watered,
and all soft-wooded plants before coming into flower, are
much benefited by having their leaves well besprinkled
with clean water, two or three times a week, oftener if pos-
sible.

This brings us to the training; as the child requires train-
ing, so does the plant. Plants of the geranium type should
never be suffered to become leggy, that is, possessing long,
bare branches with a few green leaves on the top. Endeavor
to keep the plant as bushy as possible, and near to the pot,
letting no branch have a preponderance over another. This
is accomplished by nipping off the points of the young shoots
after the plant has been potted in spring, and mace some >
progress in growing; also, by leading branches into any
weak side of the plant. Nipping the points of the young
shoots induces the plant to throw out numerous other shoots.
hence the practice. More information on the training of
plants will be found further on, in the chapter describing
the cultivation of the fuchsia.

We now come to the rest of plants, call it sleep if you will,
‘« chief nourisher in life’s feast.”” The natural rest of plants
is discernible in some, while in others it is more obscure.

} HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 19

‘Thus we gee the trees of the sist the hedge-rows, and the
fr ruit-trees of our gardens lose their leaves and go quietly to
‘sleep. And the rough winds may try to shake them from
their lethargy. But it is not until the sweet voice of spring
valling melodiously for leafy boughs, that the sleepers are
-hecessitated to awake and fulfill the divine mission of love.
Then away they burst, leading forth a glorious bass to the
Teathered choristers.

_ Nearly all plants under pot culture require rest in due sea-
son, and that season is generally after the plants have done
‘flowering. All plants that have flowered during summer,
‘such as ‘the geraniums of sorts, and tuchsias, are rested by
being kept moderately dry at the roots all through the
winter. In fact the fuchsia should be taken out of the win-
dow altogether in that season, and placed away in some
‘dryish cellar or shelf, free from frost, to remain there until
Spring comes round. The plant is then brought forth, and
‘the shoots shor tened, the roots shaken out of the old soil,
and re-potted in fresh, set in the window, and away the plant
‘goes on the journey of life. Just like the laborer, who,
having gone through the operation of the toilet, after a good
night's sleep, marches off to his work with renewed vigor;
requiring wholesome food and cleanly habits to keep him
healthy, and we may add content, to make him happy.

_ Thus we see tp Keep a window- -plant healthy, the Jeaves of
the plant must be kept clean; they must have ‘plenty of air,
and abundance of water be given to the plant during the
‘growing season; which must be potted in a nice free sandy
‘soil, well-drained, and now and then receive a little liquid
‘manure. The plant must also be trained by pinching off the
‘points of the young shoots, or tying them down; and
whether or not the plant has fulfilled its task by shedding a
few flowers, the plant must have a little rest after its exer-
tions, which will be noticed in the remarks on the cultiva-
tion of plants in the succeeding chapters.

CHAPTER III.
WILD FERNS—THE SCOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE.

_ Amonc the many varieties of wild plants that grow around
our cities, or far away in the country, none seem more inter-
esting than the fern tribe. Indeed, I may say that none are
better adapted for decorating the miniature greenhouse.

‘Their graceful fronds, like palms in miniature, are more
lasting, if they are not so pretty, as the blossom of the prim-
“rose; and although the greater number of the varieties of

<

3
®

at

20 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

ferns love shady nooks, yet there are some varieties that |
grow far up on the hills, where they receive little or no shelter
from the scorching rays of the sun, uor does the hardest
winter nip their lonely fronds. Therefore, our windows being
furnished with the miniature greenhouse, whether they partake
of the dull aspect of the back slums or the hot and dusty
thoroughfare, may be adorned and made cheerful by a few
objects drawn from that part of nature’s boundless stcre. It
is not my intention to give a long list of varieties to choose
from—that would be but to confuse you with a host of hard
botanical names which the daisy, the buttercup and the fern
knew not until science christened them afresh; but to confine
my remarks to a few varieties of ferns and other wild plants
which grow in almost every country ; also a few cultivated
plants. And for the guidance of those persons who may have
some difficulty in getting to the places where the wild plants
grow, I wili, at the close of my remarks, add a list of the
whole, with their prices affixed, and which can be purchased
from any nurseryman.

The first family or tribe of ferns that I would draw your at-
tention to as being worthy of notice is the ‘‘ Hart’s tongue,”
or Scolopendrium vulgare, of botanists. In searchtng for
this fern, remember that it will be found growing most luxu-
riantly by the side of brooks in deep glens, where the spray
of the brook leaps up and kisses it in gratitude for its com-
pany. Methinks that it would be cruel to part such sweet
friends—nay, the plant would pine away in absence of
the brook, See, there is one of the same kind a little higher
up the bank, more likely to live with you; for know that
plants, when transplanted from very sheltered places, from
being tender, are more liable to die than others taken from
exposed situations. This is a great lesson on plant cultiva-
tion.

And here let me say thatif you wish the plants which you
gather from their wild homes to do well with you, you must
not be like some cruel plant-seekers, who, in the most ruth-
less manner, tear them away from the soil in which they are
found growing, and tumble them into a handkerchief, and by
the time they reach home their lovely fronds are all bruised
and broken. When you espy one which you would like, you
must go to work systematically. Having armed yourself
with a little trowel, anda longish tin box slung from your —
shoulder, stoop down and examine the plant carefully. Ifit
be that the roots of the plant are- fast embedded in stones,
look for another that is less so; tie up the leaves or fronds —
with a piece of band, and Joosen the soil round about it with
the trowel. Be careful in doing so not to come any nearer

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 21

the plant than three inches, and preserve, if possible, every
portion of rootlet intact. When you have got the plant up,
you may reduce the ball of soil considerably, and put the
plant into your tin box—aye, as carefully as a mother would
place her sleeping infant into the cradle.

The Scolopendrium grows in tufts, and in favored situa-
tions throws out numerous dark-green colored shining
fronds, varying from eight inches to two feet in length, ac-
cording to the locality. The fronds are of a stiffish, leathery
nature, slightly recurved, and varying in breadth, but two
inches at the broadest part, which is a little beyond the mid-
dle of the frond, may be taken as an average; then they grad-
ually taper to a point; from the same part they gradually
decline in breadth to within six inches of the crown of the
plant, where the leafy portion of the frond abruptly termi-
nates in a heart-shaped manner, and the whole is supported
on a stout, dark-brown colored stalk or stipe. This stipe,
immediately it joins the frond, is termed the ‘‘ mid-rib,” and
partakes more of the green color of the frond on the upper
surface, but on the under it retains the dark color of the
stipe nearly throughout. On the under side of the fronds a

‘number of broad, parallel lines, covered, in a mature state,
with a brown sort of dust, stand out in an oblique direction
with the mid-rib very prominently. All ferns, with a few
exceptions, like the Scolopendrium, are marked in various
manners On the under side of the fronds. These marks
botanists call sori, and constitute, so to speak, the flower of
the fern; and from their position and formation the different
tribes of ferns are partly distinguished. It is not from any
fancied resemblance to the colored petals of a flower that
those marks are considered as the flower of the fern, but sim-
ply from the fact that it is there that the seed of the future
plant is developed.

That brown dust, which becomes almost invisible when se-
parated from its kindred, to become a living plant, might
we not say hereis life almost from nothingness.

Beside the Scolopendrium vulgare, there are a great
many very interesting varieties—one nurseryman advertis-
ing near wpon a hundred different sorts. But there are only
two or three to be found in astate of wildness, and those
not near so common as vulgare. That, and the two follow-
ing varieties, may be said to-be chief of the species found in
a wild state.

Scolopendrium crispum is readily distinguished from vul-
gare, by having the edge of the fronds frilled much after the
fashion of the shirt front of former days, and which some ol
our grandfathers still stick to with great tenacity. Indeed,

22 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

if the fronds of this variety were of a glossy white instead
of a light glossy green, they would be acapital imitation
and no doubt nature, in the first instance, as she does in many
more, furnished the design of the frilled front.

Scolopendrium cristatum is easily distinguished from the
foregoing varieties by having the tips of the fronds crumpled,
like so many green tassels wavingin the wind. This variety,
as well as that of crispum, displays a great craving for ad-
mniration, and therefore oughtto find a corner in the miniature
greenhouse. The filled and crested varieties are barren of
fructitication; that is to say, they have no patches of sori on
the fronds. The reason of their barrenness is imperfectly
known; but it is supposed that, like a great many more high-
er up in the scale of nature, who see no efficacy in hidden
beauty, therefore expose all to the first glance. Butit would
be well if they imitated this little fern,-and exposed nothing
but their own ware.

The name ‘‘Scolopendrium,” whlch is applied to this genus
of ferns, is supposed to have been given to it by botanists
from the resemblance which the sovi bears to the feet of the
centipede, or ‘‘ Jenny-with-the-hundred-feet,’’ which is scien-
tifically termed Scolopendra—henee Scolopendrium. But I
can see no likeness between the two, unless it be the fancied
resemblance which the oblong patch of brown so77z bears to
the insect itself.

The aspect of these three varieties of ferns, taken in the
order treated of, is the simplest in the whole genera of British
ferns from the circumstance that their fronds are more entire
than all other species; that is, they are not cut up into nu-
merous wings or pinne, which give to other ferns a feathery

- appearance.

_—

CHAPTER IV.
FERNS (Continued.)

Tue northern hard fern, or common hard fern, or Blech-
num boreale of botanists, is the next fern to which I
would call your attention. It may be said to be the only
wild variety that we possess belonging to that interesting
croup of ferns; though sometimes, in the search for this
fern, we may come across a decided sport—that is, a variety
with characteristics quite different from the common variety.
I have gathered specimens of the Blechnwm with the fronds
more or less forked at the point, like a fish-tail. The place
where I gathered that singular sport was on the bank of
a country lane, where I have also gathered specimens of the —

HOW 20 kuLP A WIND) GA.DEN, 23
~ common variety, with fertile fronds two feet five inches in

4
4

length, having barren fronds nearly two feet. I never saw
the common hard fern grow so luxuriantly as it does in that

lane; and in the present season—that is, the month of Oc-

tober—the fronds literally clothe the bank with robes of
glossy green, when all around is brown and sere.
Here, then, we inay say that these ferns have been growing

from time immemorial; and in examining the soil in which
_ they are growing, we find it to be composed wholly of decayed

vegetable matter, not boggy, but leafy and loose. And in
looking at the position of the bank, with an aspect almost
due west, slightly shaded by trees, one would almost think
that the ferns would suffer greatly in the hot summer months.

- But such is not the case. The roots being well covered with

their own decayed fronds and other grassy matter, are always
in a most healthy state; but take away that covering fora
summer’s day, and the fronds would become shriveled and

brown long before their season, which you would do well to

remember. And as we cannot suffer decayed fronds to
remain about the plants, from their unsightliness, other
means must be devised which would secure the same ends.
A little moss would answer the purpose, and look well at the
same time. And if little round baskets, also covered with
moss, could be procured to place the flower-pots in ,the
whole ends would be obtained.

The common hard fern grows in tufts similar to the hart’s
tongue, and is possessed of two different kinds of fronds,
namely, barren and fertile ones. The former are evergreen,
almost prostrate, and of various lengths, from one inch to
three inches at their broadest part, and from six inches to
twenty inches may be taken as their length. The lower por-
tion of the frond is pinnate, while the upper is ‘‘ pinnatifid;”
that is, the leafy portion of the frond commencing at the
Stipe is cut completely away at intervals varying in breadth

according to the size of the frond, and toward the apex of the

frond it is only partially cut, not fully reaching to the mid-
rib; and the whole aspect of the frond is what is termed

‘*Janceolate,” or spear-shaped. The fertile fronds, spring up
from the root a little later on in the season. They are more

erect and somewhat taller, but narrower in front and in
pinne than the barren ones. They are notstrictly evergreen,
and on the under side of the pinne, along each side of the
mid-vein with the sov7, is exposed to view, a longitudinal
patch, similar to the hart’s tongue, but darker in color. The
fertile as well as the barren fronds are supported on very
dark-colored stipes, which have a little groove or channel

running the entire length of the frond on the upper surface.

24 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

Toward the root the stipes are covered with a scaly sort of
substance, and both fronds are extremely hard to the touch;
hence the very appropriate name, common ‘‘ hard fern.”

I have now explained, as well as I know how, in plain lan-
guage, the chief characteristics of the foregoing ferns, and
would willingly lead you further afield; but that field is so |
wide and full of objects, that I am almost placed in the same
predicament as the lady who had a thousand dresses to
choose from, and who was under the painful! necessity of
frittering away the greater part of the day in considering
which to put on; and who, when dressed, had sometimes no
little mortification in thinking that she might-have looked
much better in something else. And though I have had a
good deal of frittering to do in choosing the wherewithal to
dress the miniature greenhouse, yet I hope to have none of
that lady’s mortification; but, before stepping away from the
ferns of our woods, let me point out, in the next chapter,
another group as being well worthy of attention.

CHAPTER V.
WILD FERNS (Continued. )

THE common polypod, or Polypodium vulgare of botan-
ists. The word ‘‘ vulgare” which requires the final ‘‘e” to
be sounded, is very often applied scientifically to plants to
denote that they are common, just as the word vulgar is
commonly applied to individuals who are rude and boorish in
their manners, and common enough they are. But the sense
in each case is ratber different. If it were applied to man-
kind with the same meaning as is attached to the little fern,
we should all be vulgar, which is too sweeping a conclusion;
and it would be a great pity if the fern could mend its com-
monness, but a great blessing it the majority of men would
mend their manners.

The common polypod is a fern that adapts itself, and
makes the most of the various situations in which it may be
found growing; sometimes waving its pale. green-colored
fronds by the wayside; sometimes by the brook; now hanging
over the abyss of the quarry, and often bidding defiance to
the storm on the high rocks of the hills. Whata lesson
might be read from the adaptability of this litle fern. In
describing the Polypodium vulgare, I must call your atten-
tion to a part of the plant on which I have hitherto been
silent, namely, a certain part of the root, which is a distinct
feature in this fern, and more or less of all the other varieties
that compose the group of polypods. Wherever growing,
the stipes of the common polypods will be found to spring

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN, 25

from anumber of brown, hairy-like feet, which are called
‘rhizomes,’ and which creep along the top, and also spread
under the ground. In fact, the name polypodium, which is
derived from the Greek, signifies many-footed, and in some
foreign or exotic varieties those hairy creeping stems are not
unlike a foot of a hare; in fact, it is sometimes called the
hare’s foot fern.

The ‘‘ rhizomes,” or creeping stems of the common poly-
pody, are from a quarter to half an inch in diameter, and in
a young state are covered with a light-brown chaffy sub-
stance, which gives them the appearance of being covered
with hair. Through course of time they partly lose that
hairiness, and are sometimes completely covered with black
rootlets, which penetrate or ramify into the crevices of rocks,
decayed trupvks of trees, and other surfaces suitable for their
support. The fronds rising in all directions from the young
rhizomes give this fern quite a different aspect from the
tufted habit of the hart’s tongue. The fronds are of a pale-green
color, growing from nine to eighteen inches high, and are
supported on short wiry-looking stipes. The outline of the
frond is lanceolate, and the leafy porticn is divided into seg-
ments much after the manner of the common hard fern, and
called pinnatifid. On the under side of those divisions, to-
ward the upper half of the frond, the sor? appearing in a
very regular manner, little brown, lozenge-like spots being
arranged, single file, on each side of the mid-vein, and the
indentations of these little spots are easily seen on the upper
surface of the frond.

This fern is common to nearly every county in the Middle
States. In sheltered places the fronds are evergreen, and
cap be readily distinguished from all other native ferns, from
the manner of their fructification, combined with the hairy-
creeping rhizome. There are two other varieties which are,
perhaps, more worthy of attention than Polypodium vulgare.
But they are not so easily found—one being chiefly confined
to the mountains and the other to low grounds. The former is
called Polypodium cambricum, and has a more leafy appear-
ance than the vulgare ; but it is quite barren of sori. The
other is called Polypodium semilacerum, and it resembles
cambricum ; with this difference, that the upper half of the
fronds are generally fertile.

CHAPTER VI. 3
CHOICE VARIETIES OF FERNS FOR THE MINIATURE GREENHOUSE.

To those who may desire something better than ordinary
sorts, in the way of ferns, the following choice varieties

yan) To. . LiLE A WINDOW GARDEN.

will be found a decidec acquisition for embellishing the minia-
ture greenhouse. The first claiming special attention is
named Lastrea cristata, or crested buckler fern. This
variety throws out several fronds from two to four feet in
length, gracefully rising from a dark, scaly, tree-like stem.
The edges of the deep green-colored fronds being beautifully
crested, give this fern an elegance unsurpassed by any other
varieties of hardy ferns; and where a noble and striking
specimen is desired, Lastrea cristata should be remembered.
As a contrast to the foregoing variety in habit and color,
Polypodium auriium, or eared polypody, may be favorably
mentioned; the fronds being a pale green color, and erect,
bushy habit, breaks, but does not obscure the wavy outline
of the Lastrea.

Another great favorite which would nearly correspond
with the two foregoing feras, is named Adiantum capillus
veneris, or the maiden-hair fern. So delicate is this little
fern in the structure of the fronds and leatilets, and grace-
fulness of habit, combined with the refreshing greenness
which the leaflets possess, as to entitle this fern to a promi-
nent position in all collections. With the Lastrea cristata
as a back-ground, and the Polypodium auritum placed in
front, with the maiden-hair in front of that, a beautiful bank
of ferns is formed; and when a pan of moss is placed before
the ferns, the group is worthy the pencil of the artist.

CHAPTER VII. —
THE CULTIVATION OF FERNS.

THE foregoing varieties of ferns, as well as many more
beside, may be easily grown by giving them a little shelter
from the hot summer sun, and by keeping drought from
their roots; they will well repay any other little attention
bestowed. The varieties before mentioned will also be found
to luxuriate most in a loose, leafy soil, with a good sprink-
ling of silver-sand, and when grown in pots, nature must be
imitated as nearly as possible. On woody banks the soil
can never become sour and unhealthy from being water-
logged. And though some ferns are found growing with
great strength by the side of brooks, where the soil is natu-
rally wet, yet that circumstance will be found to be a sweet
dampness. The ferns in such situations have, as it were, a fresh’
mouthful of food every instant of the day, and their appetite
is increased by inhaling the pure air of the forest. Only let
the brook become a muddy pool, shut up in a greenhouse
with the same ferns, growing as in a state of nature, and
What would be the result? The vigor of the fronds for want —

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 27

of fresh air would become languid, and then a prey to all
sorts of insects; while the rootlets under the double disad-
vantage of sour food and flaccid fronds would, in a measure,
be choked.

Thus the process of destruction would be going on at,both

-ends, and if the plant did not actually die, a much dwarfer
habit would supervene. Or take it in another way. Let the
plants have abundance of fresh air, and yet be planted in the
muddy pool, what then would be the result? However
wantonly the breeze might woo their lovely fronds, the roots
would have no better action than in the former case. Their
sour food would still make them less eager for work, and
instead of extending to a numerous progeny the plant would
eventually, ifleft to nature, fall before the rush and the water
flag in the struggle for existence. To cultivate the plant so
would be to cultivate it against nature; and all the coaxing
in the worid would never be crowned with successful cultiva-
‘tion, unless the reots also came jn for a fair share of atten-
tion, and that attention can be summed up in a very few
words—plenty of drainage to prevent the soil from becoming
sour like that of the stagnant pool.

Farmers know the utility of good drainage; and however
ridiculous it may appear to some people to talk about drain-
ing a flower-pot, yet gardeners know, or ought to know, that
that operation is as necessary for the well-being of a plant,
as it is for the produce of the farm. The operation is not only
necessary for ferns, but: likewise for all plants under pot cul-
ture. Therefore I will endeavor to show you how to proceed
in that operation, also how to pot the ferns, and other details
connected with their cultivation.

Gardeners in potting plants are always careful to cover the
hole in the bottom of the flower-pot with a good sized piece
_of broken earthenware called a crock, and the process crock-
ing; then on the top of that they place a handful or two of
‘smaller pieces, and over all a little moss to prevent the soil

‘from choking up the drainage.

As gardeners generally have plenty of broken flower-pots
they are used up for this purpose; but as you may not be
desirous to break a new flower-plot, or even a dish, though
it be cracked, a few oyster-shells will do equally well; and
that is all which they consider necessary beyond soil, a little
water now and then, and plenty of air to keep the roots in a
healthy condition. In proceeding further to pot the plant,
whether it be a fern, a primrose, a geranium, or a fuchsia, or,
indeed, with hundreds of others beside, a sufficient soil is put
into the pot, so that when gently pressed down, it will sup-
port the ball of roots, and allow the stem of the plant, at

28 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

about an incb above the root, to be on a level with the brim
of the pot. The stem should rise from the center of the pot,
aud the pot should be large enough to admit at least an inch
of soil between its sides and the ball of roots. The soil is
pressed down with the fingers, sometimes with a little stick
when the pot is a very deep one, but in all cases the soil is |
made of one uniform firmness round the roots of the plant,
and I was going to say, leveled down to within half an inch
of the brim of the pot, but this last process must depend very
much upon the size of the pot; however, that distance will
suit whatever is cultivated in the miniature greenhouse.

After potting any of the ferns which I already pointed out,
whether collected in spring, summer, autumn, or winter, care
must be taken to water them, and in doing this not to wash
the soil over the edges of the pot. As I have said before, in
speaking of acertair locality where the Blechnum boreale
grows remarkably well, cover the soil over with moss, and
place the pot in a little moss basket. A skeleton of the same
might be easily made witli*a bit of wire, and the moss inlaid.
The plants may be placed in the miniature greenhouse at
once; but, if the weather be sunny, and the window fully ex-
posed; the most simple method to give the newly-potted plants
a litle shade is to attach a newspaper to the roof of the
greenhouse.

Now, if you have carefully done all that has been directed,
from collecting the ferns and placing them in the miniature
greenhouse, the plants will never know that they have mi-
grated from the country lane, from the woody bank, to the
habitation of man. Moreover, you must keep them in that
happy state of ignorance. When they begin to droop and
pine, they are saying to themselves, ‘‘Oh, that I could re-
turn to my happy home beside the brook, under the tall
trees! I might yet be well. Or if I could but feel some-—
thing akin to the dews of heaven, my captivity would never
be mourned. I would then shine with the same splendor,
and not be ashamed to lift my head to meet the Smile of my
admirers. But, alas! I have no voice but my beauty, and
that is fast becoming low and mournful. My captors have
eyes, yet they see not the malady. Oh, howI would shine if
1 could but bathe in the dewy flood. I can hear them mur-
mur over my departed beauty, wondering how it is I do not
grow. They have done everything to meet the requirements
of my roots, who say tome. ‘Why don't you eat the food
which we send up to you? We shall die, as well as you, if
we did not keep up our appetite.’ Alas! they are as blind
as my captors. They do not see that my face is nearly as
black as their own little rootlets.”’

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 29

The plant says as we say, ‘‘ How fresh one feels afver a
good wash !” and would have us to let them partake of that
health-giving operation, and remember that they have a
breathing apparatus as well as ourselves. We have only to
clap the hand over the mouth, and how difiicult it becomes to
breathe. So with the plants when their leafy surface is cov-
ered with dust, for there their breathing apparatus lies, with
outlets as numerous as the pores of tue human body.

Gardeners have frequently to wash their plants to keep
them healthy, and window-gardeners cannot hope to have im-
munity, if they wish to keep theirs in good condition, from
doing likewise. With some plants this is a very tedious oper-
ation. I remember, when at work at Chatsworth, under the
late Sir J. Paxton, being perched for days up among the leafy
boughs of the plants in the great conservatory, applying a
little tepid water with a sponge to leaf after leaf of good-sized
trees. The operation should be very carefully done, as the
leaves of plants are easily torn or bruised. To sponge the
fronds of some ferns is a very delicate task indeed, and fiiter
to be performed by the hand of a woman than the great rough
hand of aman. But the roughest hand can be gentle if its
owner likes, and the plant receive the compiiment with the
same grace as if tendered by the hand of a princess.

The readiest way to sponge the fronds of a fern is to let
the back of the frond lie on the palm of the left hand, and
with the right apply the sponge, moderately wet, to the face
of the frond. Ifthe plant be very dirty, empty the sponge
now and then for a fresh supply of water. The back of the
fronds are not so easily done; but:you must be patient, and
be sure to look well after insects, as they generally lodge on
the under side of the fronds. If you cleanse the plants in
this manner now and then, and keep their roots from drought,
allowing air to circulate at all times through the miniature
greenhouse, and drawing down the window at night where
gas is used, the ferns will be found to contend with, and con-
quer the difficulties of a town residence.

CHAPTER VIII.
MOSSES SUITABLE FOR WINDOW CULTIVATION.

THOUGH we have a great many sorts of mosses, yet few of
them are eultivated. As seen in a state of nature, our own
mosses are exceedingly pretty and interesting, but, as nearly
all the varieties require cool, damp situations, they are not
80 well adapted for the decoration of the window or the min-
jature greenhouse. Nevertheless, I have been induced to
grow several varieties, and hope at some future time to

30 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

bring them into notice. Waiving then, for the present, our
own varieties of mosses, in favor of one or two greenhouse
varieties, the first that claims attention is named Selaginella
denticulata, or toothed moss. This variety of moss when
grown inv the greenhouse, is sure to arrest attention, and
be greatly admired for the refreshing greenness and neat
habit displayed by the plant, thereby claiming to be re-
garded as one of our special favorites.

Though this little moss is a native of the South, yet it is
very hardy in constitation, withstanding several degrees of
frost, as well as the effect of excessive heat, and also con-
siderable dryness of atmosphere. This, combined with. easy
cultivation, makes it very suitable for the decoration of the
window or the miniature greenhouse. When the plant is
bought at the nursery, in spring or summer, most likely it
will be in a very small pot, and to make the most of the”
plant, it should be shifted into a larger pot, or shallow pan,
the latter for choice, as it gives greater scope for the arrange-
ment of plants; thus, with the shallow pan of moss in front,
with a taller plant behind it, and a taller behind that, a little
bank of flowers is, as it were, constructed, which is always
the neatest mode in the arrangement. of plants. The ‘pan
must be drained in the same way as a flower-pot, covering
the holes nicely with one piece of crock, and several other
smaller pieces round about.

In shifting the plant into the pan, the ball of soil about
the roots will most likely have to be reduced, and if the
plant is large enough to be divided. into two or more pieces,
let it be done, then plant them at about two inches apart. in
the pan, and taking a handful of silver-sand (which should
be used freely among the soil) shake it nicely over the top,
and give the plants a gentle watering over head. Next,
place the plants in the greenhouse, and shade them for a few ~
days by placing a piece of old newspaper on the top of two.
or three little sticks stuck into the soil in the pan. The
plants will soon begin to grow, in their progress throwing
out numerous little delicate branches clothed with little
Shining pointed leaves. Once the plant has fairly com-—
menced to grow, it will very soon fill the allotted space, and
to hang down over the sides of the ‘pan, becoming a dense —
bed of the loveliest green. The plant should receive plenty } ?
of water during summer, and in winter occasionally.

On the approach of spring, the health of the plant may be-
gin to show tokens of decay, ‘the dense head of green becom- —
ing yellow in the center. The best course is then to make a
fresh plantation with some of the greenest portions of the old”
plant, and start them into growth in the same manner as

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 31

previously described. Selaginella denticulata will grow
without ever seeing the sun at all, but of course it must have
a little light. The next variety of Selaginella claiming the
attention, as contrasting favorably in habit, color, and adap-
tability with denticulata, is named selaginella ccesia, or the
blue shaded moss. This variety looks extremely pretty when
suspended from the roof of the greenhouse. Being more ofa
trailing habit than denticulata, the blue shaded branches hang
down over the sides of the pot; or, if a stake was stuck into
the soil, the branches being trained to it would form a nice
feathery pyramid. The cultivation of this variety is the same
as the one preceding, and will well repay the cultivator’s at-
tention. I might add, that with this variety, it is better to
have the branches totally cut away from the plant before win-
ter commences, as by doing so, the plant begins to clothe
itself in new attire, and so prepares for the spring growth of
another year. ;

>

CHAPTER IX.
FLOWERING PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENS.

In entering on this section, I must revert to the beginning
of the year and call attention to the snowdrop—pale, but not
timid in decking the copse and sward long before the natural
approach of spring. Like the hare-bell and the daffodil, the
suowdrop is nearly familiar to all, requiring little descrption
at my hands beyond the mode of culture, which would seem
simple enough, seeing that it grows like the wild ferns from
year to year, unattended by the care of man, requiring no
shelter from the hardest frost, but a long season of rest, and
that while kindred flowers may be said to be blooming, rad-
iant in a sea of glory.

‘‘Blow away,” the snowdrop says to them, ‘‘I shall bloom
hereafter.” The snowdrop cares not to feel the soft breeze
of summer, nor the glorious ripening breath of autumn; but,
with an honest, unpretending ambition, it says, ‘‘ Be mine
the lot to marshal forward Flora’s train.” And on they march
over their modest leader’s grave. Battalion after battalion
sinks like him on flood and field; and ere the tread of the
last is heard trooping away, the dead leader is again about to
rise to put on his helmet of snow. He has never yet failed
his part; and if you would cultivate the snowdrop, be like
nature in your treatment, and you need never question the
resurrection of the little flower.

The snowdrop, or galanthus nivalis of botanists, is one of
the earliest flowers of the year, and belongs to a very exten-

32 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

sive family of plants remarkable for their beauty. Solomon
in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these—a lily.
Among the members of this family of lilies which may be
classed along with the snowdrop as being suitable for the
miniature greenhouse, and requiring nearly the same treat-
ment, may be mentioned the daffodil, the hare-bell or wild
hyacinth, and the crocus. Though the latter does not. belong
to the same family, yet it may be termed a sort of third
cousin, and it will never grumble to fare ag the lilies fare.

In the search for flowering plants, much greater difficulty is
experienced than when ooking for ferns, especially those
varieties which are ever green, which can be found and
transplanted at all seasons, short of the hardest frost. But
not so with flowering plants, nearly all of which die com-
pletely down to the ground after flowering and ripening their
seed. Therefore to collect such plants the season is limited.
Thus you might at autumntide hunt, and hunt in vain, in the
fields and woods, in the hope of finding the snowdrop or some
other member of the lily family. No doubt, the little bulbs
from which the leaves and flowers spring are there; but they
have no tombstone to tell where they lie buried. Their
flowers, and their long, narrow, grass-like leaves have all
perished. So, until they again rise up from the dark earth,
it is in vain to seek for their whereabouts.

The snowdrop begins to flower about the 25th of January,
and blooms away, leading forth, ere it fades, the crocus,
with its golden robes, to further open up the floral year.
And then the daffodil, in primrose yellow, joins another link;
and when the rich dews of May bathe mead and flowers, the
hare-bell clothes the woods with sheets of lovliest blue.
The snowdrop, the crocus, the daffodil, and the hare-bell, are
nearly sufficient of themselves to make six months of the year
gay with floral beauty. The snowdrop for chasteness, and
the hare-bell for display, holds all our other plants at a dis-
tance. Truly the parple gleam of the heath on the mountains
in autumn is a magnificent display of sober richness, and we
could do with the whirring wings of the black-cock; but the
sharp crack of the breech-loader robs the scene of its purity,
and dyes the heather, as it were, with a deeper stain than
that which belongs to the gleam of the wild hyacinth, the
associates of which are altogether of a different character.
For the whirring wings of the black game we have soft,
balmy breezes, awakening bud and flower, and for the sharp
crack of the breech-loader we have a gust of the sweetest
melody pouring forth from bush and tree. It may be said
that the gleam of the hare-bell is the gleam of life and love,
and that of the heather the gleam of decay and death, And

HoW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN, 33

sweetest.
When the snowdrop and its kindred cannot readily be
found, a collection of those bulbs can be purchased for a
very small sum of money from any nurseryman or seedsman,
_who to meet the ever-increasing demand for those fashion-
able spring-flowering bulbs, annually import from Holland
thousands, I may say millions, of hyacinth bulbs alone, be-
side great quantities of tulips ‘and narcissus—a plant nearly
allied to our own daffodil. The Dutch cultivators, after
growing the young bulbs on for a year or two, until they get
| Ffally matured, take them up, when they are dried and clean-
ed, and packed off like so many boxes of onions for the sup-
ply of the seedsmen. And the circumstance that those bulbs
can be so treated gives them an utility which few other
plants possess, unless it be through the means of the seed,
-and then more difficulty is experienced in rearing a seedling
than in having somethin g that will shoot up stout leaves and
beautiful flowers, at a season, too, that to raise seedlings
would be out of the question.

CHAPTER X.
THE CULTIVATION OF SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS.

THE proper season to buy the bulbs is about the end of
September. Provide for the planting of these a few moder-
_ate-sized flower-pots, seven inches across the mouth, and the
same in depth. Also procure some soil, such as that directed
for the ferns, and add about a third more of river-sand to it,
and, together with a little rotten manure, dry cow-sharn,
“gathered from the pastures, and well rubbed in amongst the
‘soil, makes a very rich compost for the bulbs to grow in.

To make a good pot of snowdrops, twelve bulbs will be re-
“quired, and will cost about ten cents. Drain the flower-pot
_as for ferns, and fill it about half full of soil, gently pressed
down; then stick in the bulbs at equal distances, and fill up
the pot with soil to within half an inch of the top, covering it
over with a little moss, and placing the pot in the miniature
greenhouse, the oper ation may be said to be finished. Avoid
giving them water as a rule, but from time to time examine

‘the soil and give it as little as the occasion requires.

For a good display of crocus flowers, eight bulbs will
be required for one pot, and you can have a dozen of the

bulbs for the price of about ten cents also. Proceed to pot them

‘in the same manner as pursued for the snowdrops, giving

them the same after treatment which will also apply to the dat-

fodil and the tulip, though three or four bulbs of each of these

7
B.

q
surely to all mankind the gleam of life and love must be the
i
;
be

34 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

are as much as is required for one pot of each, and these will
cost about thirty cents. Hyaciath bulbs cost from ten cents to
two dollars each, and are generally planted oneina pot;
but, instead of burying them in the soil, they are kept much
nearer the surface. The pot heing drained and filled with soil,
a hole is then made for the reception of the bulb, which, after
the soil is nicely level round about it, should have its apex
a little above the surface of the soil. Cover them well over
with moss, and be careful not to give them much water until
root action has fairly commenced, which will easily be known
by the apex of the bulb swelling and gradually showing the
points of the leaves... Water may then be given them more
freely, and by and by yon may place the pots in saucers, but
do not let the water remain stagnant in the saucers, but
empty them out frequently.

Continue this treatment until the bulbs have flowered; but
when the flowers begin to show signs of decay, gradually
withdraw the supply of water, much in the same manner as
you increased it, and not do as some ungenerous people do
when they have got their turn served—wholly neglect those
who have served them. The bulbs will repay you by bloom-
ing and flowering again if you treat them well. Also be kind
to them when dressed in their full robes of beauty, by sup-
porting the flower-stalk with a nice little stake, and applying
the sponge now and then to keep their long, narrow leaves -
free from dust. When the bulbs, after flowering, have rested
for some time—say until July—shake them out of the pots
and put them away in some dry situation, to be ready when
the potting season again comes round. Where there are a
few yards of land at command, the bulbs may be turned out —
of the pots, and allowed to ripen at leisure in the soil of the |
garden. And if you wish to lengthen the blooming season of ©
those bulbs, such as the hyacinth and tulip, pot them at thireell
or four intervals—say of a month apart—some in September, }
and the season will be lengthened accordingly. There is
another way of growing the hyacinths in glasses made for the
purpose. These glasses can be bought at the seedshops.

The mode of cultivation in this way is very simple. The
glasses are filled with soft water, and the buibs are simply
placed on the mouths of the glasses, the water being allowed
just to touch the bottom of the bulb. The glasses are then —
put away, into some dark cupboard or other - recess, until the
bulbs have begun to grow. They are then brought forth to
the light, and the water, from the beginning, is changed now
and then to be perfectly sweet. The roots are also very fond
of having a piece of charcoal placed in the water. Thos
varieties named in the list at the end of the book will do for

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 35

elther glass or pot culture, and both may be put to grow at
tue same time or at the same intervals, when intended fo:
successional flowering.

CHAPTER XI.
SPRING-FLOWERING PLANTS.

As a link in the succession of flowering plants to the out-
gvoing spring-flowering bulbs with the incoming summer-
flowering plants, the Cineraria and Calceolaria will be found
admirable for that purpose. But they are very subject to the
aphis, or green-fly; and beside this drawback, the window
gardener could never hope to be able to tide the plants suc-
cessfully over the winter unless he possesses other appliances.
All this reduces the importance of these plants for window
culture toa minimum. But those who can spare a few Gdol-
lars to purchase floweriug plants from the nurseryman in
early spring, may hope, by paying attention to the following
hints on the cultivation, to realize a good dispiay of flowers
for their trouble:

In proceeding to buy a few spring-flowering plants, it is
almost necessary for me to go along with you to the nursery.
As very probably you will become captivated at the sight of
some plants beautifully in fluwer; and ere you have had
them for a week with you at home, their brilliancy will have
departed, and set you a sorrowing. Beside, I shall be the
better able to point out to you a few other plants worthy of
notice.

And now we have steppec out at the palisaded front of the
nursery, where thousands of all sorts of plants are reared to
meet the demands of all comers. It is May, and we are
marshaled forward by some civil guide to the cinerarias.
‘*Oh, there's a charming one!” you exclaim. Yes, that one
has been charming for some time, and the sooner ready to
fade. See, here is one just bursting the calyx, or flower-cup,
disclosing the crimson-tipped petals of the corolla. Buy this
one. How interesting it will be to watch the numerous
flower-buds that have yet to open, and imagine that you
have done it all yourself.

Well, certainly, the buds would never open unless you did
your part now, When the Cinerarias have got to their fresh
quarters, they must fiever be compelled to cry out for water
‘by the little buds hanging their heads, and the leaves be-
‘coming dirty for the want of the sponge. And if you give
‘them a nice light situation in the miniature greenhouse, the
plants will thrive, and the buds will open, repaying the
attention by remaining in flower for a considerable time.

36 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

We come now to the calceolaria, with its many curious
little purses for flowers. What a brilliancy they give to the
plant, yes; but you must not buy one full in flower, or it
may grieve you in the same way as the cineraria. There i is
one with its richly-colored flowers bursting the little green
calyx. That one will do capitally; buy it, and treat it just
as you have done the cineraria through the flowering season,
supporting the flower-stems by tying them to neat wooden
stakes, not too crowded together, and the plants will grow
and display its pretty-colored purses to the best advantage.
But, after all, what a deceitful thing it is to boast of purses
when they are full of nothing but emptiness.

What are you looking at, now? That hothouse covered
with canvas? Ah, thatis the den of secrets. No admit-
tance there; that is where stems are grafted on to roots, and
leaves turnea into plants, with many other curious operations
connected with the propagation of plants. Let us go to the
cyclamen-house, and look at the sow-breads. Did you ever
see such a sight? Oh! you are vexed now in purchasing
what you have bought instead of some of these charming
cyclamens, so neat and modest in appearance. Is your
purse empty? Ohno; but you have so many calls upon it.
Well, this will be the last at present. Their beauty is irre-
sistible. But will they live, then? Yes, for years; and with
little attention, the little plant will display for your amuse-
ment the loveliness of its numerous little shuttlecock-like
flowers. The cyclamen likes plenty of water during the
growing and flowering season. Afterward the supply may
be shortened; but not so as the soil to become thoroughly
dry, and the plants should be placed in the airiest part of the
greenhouse through the summer months, where it will ripen
off its leaves, and lose them. About August, the plants
should be re-potted, not necessarily into a larger pot, but
into a clean one, using plenty of sand among the soil, taking
care to keep the bulbous root (called a corm in this instance)
just above the soil. And as the leaves begin to spring up
from the corm the supply of water should be increased.

In very frosty weather the temperature of the miniature
greenhouse may be accommodated to such plants by leaving
the window up of a night, after the household have retired to
rest; or some artificial covering mignt be thrown over the —
little structure. And now the link is joined to the summer- —
flowering plants. But, for the benefit of those who may have —
a little garden, and a cold frame, beside the miniature green- —
house, T will let the chain swing a moment to tell them a lit-
tle more about the cultivation of the cineraria and the ealceo- 4
laria, so that they may be able to keep and propagate these

fe

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 37

piants, and save the expense of buying them year after year
from the nurseryman.

Let us suppose a couple of plants of each have been
bought in April, either seedlings or named varieties, the latter
for choice—Fire Queen and Captain Schrieber for cinerarias,
and Cole’s Gem and Prince of Wales for calceolarias. After
the plants have done flowering, cut the flower stem from
them and place them in the cold frame, which should be
placed in the shadiest part of the garden; or the plants may
be placed out-openly in some shady part of the garden,
with the pots resting on slates to prevent worms from get-
ting into them. Be careful to water the plants through the
summer, and by the beginning of September the cinerarias
will have several young plants or suckers growing round
about the old stools. A little sharp sandy soil must now be
prepared, and a few small pots with a little crockage in the
bottom. Turn the cinerarias out of their pots, and breaking
the ball of soil nicely, endeavor to get the young plants away
from the old stool with as many young roots as possible, and
- repot them, one by one, in the small pots.

The young plants must now be placed under-glass, such as
a frame in the garden, and receive a gentle watering over-
head from the rose(that part of the spout of the watering-pot
pierced with numerous little holes), and the frame shaded and
closed for a day or two. The plants will soon become estab-
lished in their new quarters, requiring to be watered every
day, needing also pienty of air, and must be kept free from
the green-fly by fumigation. By degrees the plants will be
ready for larger pots; and thus you may grow cinerarias for
the million if you choose. On the approach of winter, the
plants must be brought into the greenhouse, and kept grow-
ing and free from frost, until they have flowered. The plants
may also be raised from seed sownin May. For this purpose
filla flower-pot with very fine soil, and sow the seed on the
top, slightly covering it over with a little soil. Place a
square of glass over the mouth of the pot, giving it a shady
position in the garden, and attending to the soil with water.
The plants will soon come up. When they are large enough
to handle, pot and treat them the same way as the young
plants from the old stool.

The propagation of the calceolaria is somewhat different
to that of the cineraria. It is also hardier in nature, some
varieties resisting several degrees of frost. By the end of
September the calceolarias will have made several young
shoots, suitable for cuttings, or if cuttings are not required,
the plants will be all the better for having them taken off,
as they will make more bushy plants for another year. In

38 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

striking the cuttings, fill a few small pots with sharp sandy
soil, ready to receive the cuttings, which should be made in
the following manner: Take the shoots off below the third
pair of leaves, and with a sharp knife cut away the lower
pair of leaves from the shoots, also the end of the shoots,
close to the joint where the leaves spring from; when this is
done the cuttings will be ready for planting. With little
dibber make a hole in the center of the soil in the pot, and
place the cutting therein nearly up to the second pair of
leaves, taking care to fix the cuttings nicely and firmly in
the soil. When the cuttings are got in, they should be placed
in the cold frame, watered and kept shaded for a few days.
The cuttings will soon strike root; they may then be planted,
three in a seven-inch pot, and grown forward to flowering
season. The calceolaria can also be raised from seed, sown
and treated in the same manner as the cineraria. .

CHAPTER XII.

SUMMER--FLOWERING PLANTS: THE GERANIUM AND THE
FUCHSIA.

THE fuchsia is strictly a summer-flowering plant, and
though we see them both in winter and summer decorating
the windows of the cottages not with flowers but with leaves,
such a mode of treatment is ill suited to their nature. I can
compare that sort of treatment to nothing else than the fool-
ish task the pedestrian sets himself of walking a thousand
miles in a thousand hours; and ere it is accomplished, he
may be said to be neither sleeping nor waking. So with the
fuchsia that is expected to grow summer and winter; the
water given to it in the winter, may be said to be like the ©
pricks and pinches given to the pedestrian to keep him awake
to his task. What is the individual fit for when in this state ?
To load his stomach with food might lose him the day, if not
his life; but after a time of natural rest, vigor is partly re-
stored, and the individual becomes ready again both for food
and labor; and it is the same with the fuchsia after resting
in due season.

The fuchsia, like the geranium, is nearly everybody’s plant,
and may be purchased at any time from the nurseryman;
but April or May is the best season for doing so. When you
get the plant home, examine in what state the roots are in.
This is done by sliding the right hand on the mouth of the
flower-pot, and turning the pot upside cown, give it a tap or
two onthe edge ofthe table. Ifthe ball comes out easily,
and the roots do not seem matted together but growing
nicely, they are in a healthy condition. If the ball does not ©

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 39

come out easily, and the roots seem to be matted, the plant is
what is termed pof-bound, and would have been benefited
had it been shifted into a larger pot. In either case shift the
plant intoasize larger pot, giving it alittle richer soil than
what it has been previously growing in, and see that the soil
goes down round every part ofthe roots. ‘The soil used for
the bulbs, with a little turfy loam added to it, will suit both
the fuchsia and geranium. Give the newly-potted plant a
good watering and place it in the greenhouse, and if you
wish to have a nice bushy plant, pinch the point off the lead-
ing shoot when about two feet high, doing the same by the
other shoots which seem to have the lead.

This pinching causes the plant to become nicely balanced
with numerous branches, forming, as it were, a little pyra-
mid. When this has come to pass, you must cease pinching,
and let the plant have its will, and be sure at this stage never
to suffer the roots to become very dry for lack of water; also
the plant would be greatly refreshed by being sprinked over
with water every evening.

By July the fuchsia will begin to repay you for your trouble,
with a grand display of beautiful ear-drops. You must then
cease to water the plants overhead, but do not neglect the
roots, and the display will be kept up for along time. As
soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow and drop from the
plant, the supply of water should be gradually lessened, and
the plant by degrees set to rest until the following spring.
The plant should then be brought forth, and all the shoots
wkich it made the year before considerably shortened, but
still keeping a pyramidal outline; also shake a portion of the
old soil from the roots and re-pot the plant with fresh soil,
remembering to give it plenty of drainage, and a little water
now and then, and the plant will soon start into fresh life.

The geranium is somewhat different in cultivation to the
fuchsia, which loses its leaves entirely when at rest; but that
period is not so observable in the geranium, which retains a
portion of its leaves throughout the whole season, and
requires rather more attention at the hands of the cultivator.
The geranium has of late vears greatly increased in beauty,
and if it does require a little more attention than the fuchsia,
that attention is well repaid not only by the beautiful flowers
with which they are adorned, but also by the beautiful varie-
gated leaves which some of the varieties produce. I would
advise you to buy the geranium in April or May, and pursue
the same treatment in potting the plant as for the fuchsia;
and if any shoot is likely to take the ascendency, nip the
point off, and do not let one side of tne plant be always
toward the light, but turn it round now and then, and there.

40 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

by endeavor to grow a nice, bushy plant. And instead of
watering the geranium overhead like the fuchsia, apply the
sponge now and then to keep the leaves free from dust, and
be careful not to allow water to lodge on the leaves for any
length of time, as that will soon disfigure them. In winter,
though the geranium is not actually at rest, yet the plant
requires less water at the roots, but the leaves should always
be kept free from dust.

In very hard frosty weather, the geranium, or any other
tender plant which you may have in the greenhouse, should,
of an evening be brought to the inside of the window, in case
Mr. Frost should put in a claim, and cruelly take the lives of
your favorites. After the winter has been fairly tided over,
the geranium should be re-potted, not necessarily into a
larger pot, but into a clean one. If shifted into the same
sized pot, the ball must be reduced, great care being taken
in doing so not to break the roots. In re-potting, have the
same care as you had with the fuchsia, in seeing that the
soil goes down round every portion of the ball, .and remem-
ber to let the plant rise from the center of the flower-pot as
perpendicular as possible. After the plant is potted, give the
soil a good watering, taking care not to wash the soil over
the sides of the pot. In the operation of potting, a little fore-
thought should be given to that circumstance, which, if the
soil fills the pot entirely, can scarcely be avoided. There-
fore, let the soil be about half an inch beneath the rim of the
flower-pot. :

In very hot dry weather, such plants as the fuchsia and
geranium, especially when they are pinched for root-room,
will be greatly benefited by having the pots in which they
are growing protected with some artificial covering, the
same as advised for the ferns. The flower-pot of itself is not
sufflicient to prevent rapid evaporation ; in fact, it rather
aids that effect, which we would now in a measure prevent,
being of a very porous nature and a great conductor of heat.
In summer, the soil the pot contains very soon becomes dry;
and when we think that the roots of the plant may be lying
thickly around the inside of the pot, we must conclude, when
the soil is dry and the rays of the sun beating on the pot,
that these roots must suffer greatly, andin fact, they very
soon show it in the flaccid leaves of the plant; but cover the
flower-pot, or pop it into another, and the plant is able’to re-
sist a greater amount of drought. In the former case, water
would have to be given daily to the plant without any corres-
ponding good effect; while in the latter, water two or three
times a week would suffice, and the plant would thrive better.

|

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 4]

CHAPTER XIII.
PROPAGATION OF THE FUCHSIA AND GERANIUM.

Ir you are anxious to give a plant toa friend, I will now
endeavor to show you how to raise a fuchsia or a geranium
from cuttings, which is the general mode of propagating
those plants. As soon as your fuchsia plant has made a
young shoot of three pair of leaves and which can be cut off
without injury to the shape of the plant, with a sharp knife
cut the shoot away from the plant beyond the lower pair of
leaves. This young shoot is to’form the future plant, and is
now termed a cutting. The next operation is to make the
cutting; with a knife as sharp as a lancet cut away the lower
pair of leaves as close as possible, without injury to the bark
or skin of the cutting, and placing the edge of the knife across
the end of the cutting close to where the leaves sprung from,
press the knife through, and the cutting is made. If you are
afraid of cutting your fingers in this operation, plave the cut-
ting between the fore and middle-fingers of the left hand,
bringing the thumb-nail of the same hand under the end of
the cutting, and with the knife in the right hand you can
sever the end off to a hair’s-breath, without any risk of cut-
ting yourself.

Without a moment’s loss of time, after the cutting is made
it should be put into the soi! where it is intended to strike
root. Therefore, for this purpose everything should be pre-
pared previously to taking the cuttings off the plants. The
soil prepared for cuttings is generally a good deal finer than
that which is used for potting plants. If you have no fine
-Sieve.to pass the soil through, you must rub it weil between
your two hands, and casting out a‘l the hard lamps, mix the
soil with nearly an equal portion of silver-sand. The pots
used for cuttings are generally of the smallest size; they are
drained in the usual manner, and filled moderately firm with
the soil, which then receives a thin coating of sand, and the
whole is then well watered, and will be ready to receive the
cuttings as soon as they are made. :

In the operation of putting in the cuttings, a hole is made
in the soil with a little pointed stick, and the cutting is in-
serted nearly to the first pair of leaves. Be sure that the
end of the cutting is firmly embedded in the soil, and with a
little more sand fill up any marks whfch have been made
with the dibber. The cuttings should then receive a gentle
watering, and if you have no glass shade to put over the cut-
tings to keep in the moisture, and thereby prevent the dry
atmosphere from shriveling them up, you must make a paper
bag to put over them, and examine the soil now and then
how it is for water; also take the paper bag off after it has

42 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN,

been on for a few days, at first chiefly at night, and then by
degrees during the day. In three weeks or so the cutting
will have struck root, and be ready to be presented to your
friend.

The geranium, and a host of other plants, may be propa-—
gated after this manner, if taken at the proper season. With
only the convenience of the miniature greenhouse, May and
June will be the best season for striking the fuchsia; while
.August will suit the geraniums of both sections—that is, the
zonale, or horse-shoe leaved varieties, embracing all those
kinds which are grown chiefly for the brilliant coloring of
their leaves, and having trusses of white, pink or scarlet
flowers; and the other section, commonly known as the show
varieties, and which are chiefly cultivated for their magnifi-
cent display of parti-colored flowers, with which they are
adorned in the early summer months. But though cuttings
of both sections may be struck in August, yet the cultivation
of plants in the latter is somewhat different to the former.
Say you buy a plant about the beginning of April; I would
not look for any flowers from it that season, but I would en-
courage it to grow by shifting the plant into a larger pot, and
tying down all the branches that it made to as near the rim
of the flower-pot as possible.

I would thereby lay a good foundation for the future out-
line of the plant; and as is the case with the fuchsia, or
other varieties of geraniums, any shoot which seemed to have
too much of the lead, I would nip the point off with my fin-
ger and thumb, which would check it, and at the same time
induce it to send out other shoots—a great secret of success
in the training of such plants. From about the end of Sep-
tember, and all through the winter months, the plant should
be kept rather dry at the roots. On the approach of spring,
—say the beginning or April—shift the {plant into a larger
pot, and give it a good watering. As the plant continues to
crow, try to lead a young shoot to fill up the vacancy. By
the end of May, you ought to have a nice bushy plant, re-
quiring a moderate supply of water, and to be kept free from
insects, such as the green fly—a great pest to this section of
geraniums, whica, if allowed to remain, will check the
growth of the plant, spoiling the show of flowers. Therefore
on the first appearance of the enemy, you must commence
hostilities immediately, by pouring such a destructive fire of
tobacco-reek among the leaves that he will be quickly
brought to nought. To accomplish this, make a paper bag
big enough to envelope the plant, and while over the plant
fill it full of pure tobacco-reek, and you will soon lay the pests
on their backs.

' HOW 10 KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 43

In training the plant you may at any time tie down, or
lead any shoot into a gap, but none of the points should be
pinched off for some time previous to the period of flowering.
- Thus, if you wish the plant to flower about the latter end
of June, you must cease pinehing at the beginning of May.
Two or three weeks after the plant has done flowering, all the
branches which it has made during the season are consider-
ably shortened, In ashorttime after receiving this cutting
down, as it is termed by gardeners, the plant, ifhealthy, will
show signs of life, by the points of its branches becoming
thickly studded with green buds, which in course of time will
become young shoots, to form the plant and produce flowers
for another season.

Some of those little buds may have to be rubbed off; because,
if they were all suffered to grow, the plant would be nothing
but a mass of thin wood, which the plant, in supporting,
would be sure to hurt itself in the struggle. But if these
buds are all rubbed up to three or four on a branch, the plant
having more food at its disposal, the young shoots accor-
dingly become stronger, and capable of producing larger
flowers, and in greater abundance. As this annual cutting
down is the means of keeping the plant in a dwarf, bushy
state for a great number of years, the roots also annually
undergo such a treatment.

When the plant has been cut down, andthe young shoots
have begun to grow, the plant is tnrned out of the pot, and
all the soil shaken from its roots. The plant is then re-
potted with fresh soil, but ina much smaller sized pot, in
which it remains all the winter. In March or April it is again
shifted into the former sized pot, and receives very liberal
treatment until the blooming season is past. It is then cut
down again, and so on from year to year.

You must not expect to be able to arrive at the same state
of perfection in the cultivation of the fuchsia and geranium,
as those who have every appliance at hand to bear upon
the objects; but, if you persevere steadfastly, I see no rea-
son why you should not cultivate the friendship of flowers
much sooner than that of boon companions, who, when your
last shilling is melted in a flowing pot, will assuredly fall
away from you like the leaves of the lime-tree in the earliest
breath of winter. True, the flowers may fade, but they die
away gradually; and when they can sustain a semblance of
frieadship no longer, they do not cut you completely, but
linger with you until better days. That perseverance will
lead you to enjoy a greater amount of pleasure than what
you would receive with only the convenience of the bare win-
dow for the cultivation of the friendship of flowers.

44 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN,

For an extension of summer-flowering plants, I cannot do
better than recommend a few more gold and silver variegated
geraniums. They have become very fashionable as a class
of plants, and are likely to remain so, but it is not on that
account I go in for them, it is rather for their brilliant colored
leaves. They, without a flower at all, are pleasing the whole
year round. In early spring, and all through the summer,
the tints of the leaves are beautiful. In autumn and on to
the friendly season of Christmas, the tinted coloring of the
leaves seem to come out more vividly than ever, impressing
one with an idea that the coloring matter of the flowers must
have escaped by some means into the foliage, so beautifully
is it inlaid with crimson and gold. Beside, the variegated
geraniums will be found very suitable companions for ferns
and other graceful fotiaged plants.

The varieties recommended to be grown are not of the
newest stamp, for it must be remembered that this class of
plants are of recent introduction, not from foreign countries,
but from the hands of our own gardeners and nurserymen,
who demand extravagant prices for new sorts, which are
sometimes no better, if so good, as older varieties, and every
year sees a whole lot of them spring into existence. There-
fore, the sorts recommended, though old, yet from their good
characteristics are sure to retain a prominent place in the
lists of all cultivated plants.

The golden variegated varieties are named Mrs. Pollock,
Lady Cullum and Lucy Grieve. The silver variegated ones,
Italia Unita, Picturata, and Rainbow, with Model for a gold
and bronze-leaved variety. Being of established repute, any
of these varieties will well repay the attention of the culti-
vator.

CHAPTER XIV. -
AUTUMN-FLOWERING PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Wir the autumn I come back to the lily family, and wish
to introduce to your notice the Scarborough lily, or the Vai-
lota purpurea of botanists. I believe that I speak within
~ Dounds when I say that no plant, home or foreign, displays
such a beautiful umbel of flowers for so little management
as the Vallota purpurea. Iam led to say so, not only from
plants under my own management, but also from a plant
which a friend of mine has had in his window for the last
three years, in the same flower-pot, in the same soil, and
with but a little drop of water now and then, it has never
failed to bloom about August; beside it has retained its.
beautiful, long, narrow, green leaves throughout the season.

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN, 45

I mention the latter circumstance, because some cultivators
allow the long leaves of the plant to fall back to the ground
and so become decayed, long before their proper time, and
the plant thereby makes a very shabby appearance during
ote half of the year.

The bulbous root of the Vadlota resembles a brown thick-
necked onion, and the long leaves have nothing to support
them but the thin scale of the bulb, which very often breaks,
and so comes down their beautiful leaves. My friend pre-
vents that mishap by wrapping a piece of soft paper round

_the neck of the bulb, but not too tight as to interfere with
the graceful hanging of the leaves. A good sized bulb of the
Vallota, in & pot, may be bought at any time for about fifty
certs. After procuring it, Tet it remain in the pot in
which it had been crowing, but wrap the plant round the neck
with some soft material, and give the roots plenty of water
during summer, withdrawing the supply in winter all but suf-
ficient to keep the leaves from flagging, and the Vallota will
do well in the miniature greenhouse.

I mentioned the chrysanthemum as bringing up the last
link of the floral year; but I would not lead you to think that
you could cultivate it to any perfection with but the con-
venience of the miniature greenhouse. The chrysanthemum
likes plenty of fresh air, and it suffers terribly, if its roots are
pot-bound. Nevertheless, ‘if you had a yard or two of land
attached to your dwelling, I can put you in the way of grow-
ing that plant soas you might make the miniature green-
house gay with flowers from October until Christmas.
Perhaps some of iny readers may have a garden, as well as a
miniature greenhouse; therefore, I will endeavor to instruct
them how to proceed in the cultivation of the chrysan-
themum.

At the end of May, buy two young plants from the nursery-
man, say, Jardin des Plantes as a yellow, and Ion as a white
variety. Take them out of the pots, and plant them into the
soil of the garden, and as the plants continue to grow, you
must by judicious pinching so cause the plants to throw out
several shoots, which cught to be tied to stakes to prevent
the wind from breaking them. About the middle of August
fill a number of six or seven-inch flower-pots with good, Tich
soil, and make as many stout pegs; then loosing a branch of
the chr ysanthemum from the stake, carefully bend it down to
the ground, and peg the point of the branch on to the Soil in
the flower-pot; proceed in the same manner to peg down as
many branches as you require.

When the operation is completed, put a handful of soil on
the top of each pot, and give them all a good watering, con-

46 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

tinuing to do so daily, if the weather be droughty. By the
end of September the plants will have grown wonderfully,
and established themselves in the pots. They may be then
severed from the parent plant, and brought in to decorate
the miniature greenhouse. Thus the two young plants bought
in May, may be made to produce two dozen nice towering
plants by October.
CHAPTER XV.
AUTUMN-FLOWERING PLANTS: THE CHINESE PRIMULA, OR CHINA
PRIMROSE. =

Tuis plant is a great favorite with gardeners for the deco-
ration of conservatories in autumn and winter; and _ al-
though considerable skill and attention is requisite from the
time of sowing the seed in May up to rearing good plants in
autumn, yet much of this can be avoided by purchasing a few
flowering plants at that season from the nurserymen. After
the primula has commenced to flower, the plant requires
little attention beyond watering about twice a week during
winter, and picking off the decayed flowers from the plant,
also avoid letting the pot stand in a saucer containing water.
By these little attentions the primula wili open its salver-
shaped flowers one after the other the whole of autumn and
the greater part of winter. The plants are very seldom kept
after the flowering season.

For those who have the appliance of a glass frame anda
garden, plants may be raised from seed in the following
manner:

Sow the seed in May on the surface of very fine soil, well
mixed with silver-sand, in a flower-pot or shallow pan, and
cover the seed slightly with a little of the soil. The soil
should now be watered, and a square of glass placed over the
mouth of the pot or pan, and put into the frame where
cucumbers or other tender plants may be growing.

In a few days the plant will appear. When large enough
to be taken in the fingers, shift them one by one into very
small pots, having similar soil to that in which they have
been growing, and replace them in the frame.

Attending to water, shading, etc., the roots of the plants
will soon fill the little pots. The plants must now be shifted
into larger pots—say from four to seven inches across the
mouths—in which tuey will remain and flower. In-potting
the plants keep their necks rather above the soil than under
it; and if the plants be rather weak in the neck, and bend
over to one side, support them in an upright position by
sticking three little sharp-pointed stakes into the soil at right
angles, and close to the neck of the plant. As the plants

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 47

grow they should be inured to the air, and receive plenty of
water. _ By August they will be ready to flower. The plants
may then be taken into the miniature greenhouse, and tended

onwards to their final bloom.

CHAPTER XVI.
CULTIVATION OF PLANTS IN WINDOW-BOXES.

Wir the protection of ascreen or blind, fixed to the win-
dow, and drawn down over the plants in inclement weather, a
greater range of plants may be cultivated in the window-
boxes. With the above simple protection, the spring-flower-
ing bulbs, such as the crocus, the tulip, the hyacinth, etc.,
might be grown to great perfection. After those have
flowered, the box might be replenished, by sowing or plant-
ing a few pots of mignonette; and by May, the Tom Thumb
sealet geranium might be planted with advantage. Even in
winter the boxes might be made to look comely by a cover-
ing of mosses, gathered from off old walls or other buildings
ju the country.

If it be thought desirable to plant the box with spring-
flowering bulbs, to make it look well, a little arrangement in
planting is then requisite. You may plant a patch of snow-
drops at each end of the box, succeeded by a patch of cro-
cuses, and one of early Duc van Tholl tulips, with three or
four hyacinths in the middle of the box; this will make avery
agreeable arrangement of the plants, and will give greater
effect than if the bulbs were planted by each other promiscu-
ously.

The bulbs should all be planted in September or October,
about three inches deep, and the surface of the soil covered
over with moss or sphagnum, easily procurable at the nur-
sery, if a mossy bank is not at hand. In about six or seven
weeks after the bulbs are planted, the coming up of the
plants may be looked for. Those that are peeping up through
the soil should be allowed to appear through the moss, and
receive occasional waterings. In order to ward off wet or
frosty weather, the blind should be drawn over the plants.
After the bulbs have bloomed, and the season be suitable
for replanting the box with other flowers, the bulbs may be
taken out and planted in the garden, or in a few pots, ora
box, or any article that would hold them, and where they
could be placed to ripen off at leisure. j

Information having been already given on the subject of
cultivating spring-flowering bulbs and other plants, repeti-
tion is unnecessary. With regard to the cultivation of an-

48 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

nuals, such as the Virginian stock, candytuft, etc., for win-
dlow-boxes, the seed should be sown about a quarter of an
inch under the surface of the ground; and when the plants
come up, they should be thinned out a little, if they be too
thick, giving them plenty of water, and they will soon repay
the attention by blooming profusely.

70;

HOW TO MAKE AN AQUARIUM.

ONE of the most delightful amusements of the day, is the
fitting up and stocking an aquarium, or mimic fish-pond.
The aquarium is a tank, wherein the fish and water vegetables
are placed—the one to consume carbon and give out oxygen,
and the other to consume oxygen and give out carbon, in
such proportions that the water is always kept pure. In the
aquarium, by an imitation of nature, you have a miniature
fish-pond, wherein the habits of fish and the growth of sub-
aqueous vegetation are laid open to the observer, so as to
afford him continual amusement.

The salt-water aquarium is a miniature sea, and the fresh-
water aquarium a miniature pond. Both, to be real aquaria,
must have in themselves the power of keeping vegetable pro-
ductions fresh and growing, and animals alive, without the
necessity of changing the water. The few cubic feet of water
enclosed in the glass box must remain pure from month to
month, kept so by the animal and plant life therein existing;
and so soon as any appearance of decay in the plants, or of
unusual mortality among the live inhabitants is observed, it
may be taken as a sure sign that something is wrong ia the
structure or condition of the little world.

The principle upon which the aquarium, either of sea or
fresh water, is founded, is the following: A plant immersed
in water will, under the influence of light, exhale oxygen gas;
and this oxygen it is that all fish and marine and fresh-water
animals require to sustain life. When goldfiish are kept in a
bowl, they would soon die if the water were not continually
changed; for they exhaust the oxygen from the small supply
of water in the bowl, and there is nothing to revivify the
water from which they have extracted what is to them an indis_
pensable element of life. The introduction of plant-growth-
however, alters all this; the plants give out the necessary

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN, 49

oxygen, while some of the animals, on their part, repay the

obligation by feeding on any of the vegetable matter that be-

gins to decay, and cause turbidity in the water. Thus a bal-
ance is maintained, the vegetable and animal inhabitants: of

the little glass world being equaily and mutually necessary

to each other’s well-being. A few sea-snails, or periwinkles,
for a salt water, and half a dozen pond-snails for a fresh-water
aquarium, are the best scavengers in the world; and the best
of it is, they keep themselves, without putting their owner to

any expense whatever.

The aquarium is made properly of two materials. The bot-
tom and ends should be made of marble or slate, and the two
sides of glass—though for fresh-water aquaria all the sides
may be mace of glass, set in iron pillars, if the latter be enr
ameled. We prefer the former method. The end- -pieces
have grooves cut in them to receive the plate glass, which is
then cemented, and made water-tight. There are simila,
grooves in the bottom. The cement should be such as will
not decompose and taint the water. The tank, if you are near
a large city, can be bought cheaper than you can make
it.

Having bought your tank, see that the cement or putty it
may contain is perfectly dry. Cleanse it thoroughly by filling
it with successive changes of water. It is useless introduc-
ing any specimen until the water in the tank remains per-

_fectly free from any impurity, contracted from the vessel in

which it is placed.

Where to place the aquarium is a very important point, and
one which should be very carefully attended to—the object
being to imitate, in the artificial pool of water, as closely as
possible, the position of a natural pond, or sea. The first

, thing to remember is, that /ight is necessary for the exhala-

tion of oxygen; but that the light must fall as it wonld on a
real pool of water—v. e., never laterally, or from the side, but
always from the top. The aquarium should, therefore, be

placed in a position where it may receive plenty of sunlight,
_ tempered, however, by the shade of over-hanging plants, or

by a screen during the hottest hours of the day; for should
the water become thoroughly warm, a great mortality among

the inhabitants is almost certain to ensue. For this reason,
many aquaria are made with a slab of slate on the side where
the sunlight, if unchecked, would strike sideways through
the water; when this is not done, a thick curtain of green

}

|
:
7
q
oF

_ baize, or some other impervious material, will answer the
purpose. Do not place the aguarium in any place where it
is likely to be moved, or shaken, in closing shutters, or

50 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN

similar operations; a grand point toward success is that,
once fixed, it should remain entirely undisturbed.

The aquarium being cleansed and clear, the next thing is
to prepare the ground or bottom of the miniature sea. Sand
and pebbles, to the depth of about four inches, must first be
introduced. Rockwork must now be introduced—either arti-
ficial material such as is used for the borderings of gardens,
or pieces of natural rock, collected on the sea-shore. A
great deal of the appearance of the aquarium, when finished,
will depend upon the manner in which these pieces of rock
are distributed and arranged. They should form natural
cayes, in which the animals may conceal themselves at pleas-
ure, and jutting promontories, one or more extending above
the water. These rocks should be firmly fixed, by propping
them up with sand and pebbles, scooped away around their
bases. No pains should be spared to makethe arranzement
of rock and water as picturesque as possible, as, once com-
pleted, it cannot be again interfered with. In some aquaria,
this layer of sand and pebbles is dispensed with, and the
pieces of rock are merely fastened with a little cement, or
even placed loose on the slate floor of the vessel, on the
ground that some of the smaller animals hide themselves
among the shingle, and, dying there, infect the water; but,
with care, this may be prevented.

The period of the sea-side visit is the time to procure trea-
sures for the aquarium. There are, indeed, several places in
New York and other large cities where specimens of all kinds,
both animal and vegetable, may be procured; but no supply
thus purchased can make up for the pleasure and profit to be
derived from collecting the whole stock for your aquarium
yourself, and the specimens thus collected may easily be
brought, safe and sound, to the finder’s inland home; for
this part of the task, moreover, we shall presently give a few
directions. At low water, when the sea is retiring from the
foot of the clifis, leaving a large expanse of weed-covered
rock uncovered, follow the margin of the retiring waters,
armed with a chisel and hammer; for you must, in collecting
your specimens, avoid all that are merely lying on the rocks,
and which, in nine cases out of ten, are dead. You must
chip off a little piece of the rock on which the weeds are
growing that you collect, and bring them away adhering to a
piece of their native rock—though a very small fragment,
just enough for the weeds to cling to, will be sufficient, as
sea-weeds have no roots. Take care that there are no
decaying weeds or animals on the bits of stone; for if they —

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. ol

are suffered te remain, and begin to decay in your vase, they
may be the ruin of the whole collection.

In making your selection of sea-weeds, or algze, choose ex-
-clusively the smaller and finer kinds ; the large coarse fuci
are too strong for the purpose, and cover the aquarium with
slime in decaying. The smaller and more delicate specimens
are frequently found hidden under the shelter of the larger
kinds, or nestling beneath rocky ledges. In every case re-
move them gently, taking care that a portion of the rock on
which they grow is detached with them. Endeavor to obtain
specimens of as many various colors and forins as possible; for
on the judicious arrangement and contrast of colors—crimson,
and purple and green, and olive—the appearance of your
aquarium will mainly depend. The pretty litlte purple-tinted
‘coralline (corallina officinalis) is exceedingly well adapted

for the purpose; likewise the pinnate-leaved laurencia.

THE COMMON SARGASSUM is an interesting specimen found
on the American shores of the Atlantic. The stems are a
foot or more in length, alternately pinnated with simple
branches. The plant is dark olive-colored, changing to red -

dish brown, upon exposure to air. The small pea-like shells
‘growing upon its stems are a7-vessels, which float the large
stems of the plant in water.

THE Buck’s Horn Fucus is destitute of air-vessels, but the
extremities of the fronds are inflated, forming terminal recep-
tacles. The fronds are from a few inches to a foot and a half
in length, olive-green color, with a tinge of yellow at the ex-
tremities.

_ Tue Dicuotomous DictyoLa grows upon rocks, as wellas
upon the larger alge. The fronds are from two to nine inches
in height, green in color, forming a beautiful specimen when
dried. There are narrow and broad fronded varieties, of the
‘same species.
__ The PEacocx’s Tain Pavonta is a curious species, growing
‘chiefly in rocky pools, where the water is still, and exposed
iat low tide. The frond is membraneous and spreading, pre-
Senting various shades of brown, and yellowish or reddish
(Olive, which, with the numerous darker and concentrical
lines, and a white bloom-like powder, spreading over and
imore or less modifying the multiplied hues, renders this one
‘of the most beautiful and remarkable of all our marine vege-
‘tables. Several generally rise from the same base in erect
or slightly spreading tufts, seldom more than two or three
inches high, the divisions arising apparently not from growth,
but from laceration, or separation after growth, the same
concentrical lines being continued in the same curve through
all the segments.

o2 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN,

The ARTICULATED CHYLOCLADIA may be found either grow-
ing upon rocks, or attached to some larger plants. [is
fronds are tubular, looking like a series of the cells of an
orange, united at their extremities; the branches spring
from some of these constructions, and the plant grows in
tufts, from a creeping, fibrous base, and rises in height from
one to six inches; they are of a tender substance, and pur-
plish or pinky-red colored. This plant, and other varieties
that are allied to it, are only of annual duration; but the
minnte disk, in all of them, is accompanied by fibres, which |
creep along the rock or stem of the supporting plant, fixing
themselves here and there, and forming the rudiments of
future fronds.

THE Rep Rock-LEAVED DELESSARIA is one of a beautiful
genus, of which there are about a dozen varieties. They are
plants of very fragile texture, rarely found entire, unless
growing in rocky pools, or drawn up in nets from deep water.
The leaves of the Delessaria sanguinea are of a rich red color,
and satiny texture, ard from three to twelve inches in length;
the short-branched stem is fixed by a small red disk.

When this plant is perfect, it is scarcely equaled in bril-
liancy of hue by any vegetable production, the membran-
eous part of the frond being of a vivid and glossy rose pink,
the midrib and veins of deep carmine. Frequently small
zoophytes are found attached to it.

THE EscuLent Ir1p#a consists of a subcartilaginous cune-
iform frond, attenuated below into a short stipe. Being an
inhabitant of deep water, it is most commonly found near the |
low-water mark. The fronds are from four to eight inches
long, deep blood-red or purple, changing to greenish or yel-
lowish white upon exposure. It is ‘Sometimes eaten by fish- |
ermen, and other people on the coast, after being fried or |
roasted, and it is said to taste like roasted oysters. Theterm —
tridea has reference to the iridescent hues of the prawing
frond in some of the Species. —

The FEATHERED PriLora is ofa red color, characterized, with
some three or four varieties, by the feathered form of the
frond. It is frequent on rocky coasts, grows from thr
inches to a span in length, and is attached by a small disk
The younger branches are pale crimson or pink; the older,
deep purplish red, passing into brown. This is a beautif
object, viewed under a microscope or magnifying-glass
high power; the surface appears dotted with coral-like scales
and the fr uit is contained in small involucres at the extrem
ties of the segments.

The Buunt Ruscovs-LIkE DELESSARIA is a red-fronde
species, growing upon rocks, and upon the larger mari

‘
‘

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN. 53

plants. Thi is remarkable for the production of small
leaves from the midrib of the fronds.

The LACERATED NITOPHYLLUM is another of the red group,
its fronds being irregularly divided. It is very frequently met
with on rocky coasts, growing from a minute discoid base,
from which it is frequently broken away by the waves. The
whole plant is in general very thin and delicate, of a pale
pinkish red, varying to reddish brown. The lower part of
the frond is always more or less distinctly marked with par-
allel, interbranching dark veins, origiuating at the base, and
generally vanishing at the length of two or three inches, but
sometimes extending even into the branches. The species is
exceedingly variable in reference to the breadth and lacera-
tions of the frond. The alga thrives well in a tank.

The feathery bryopsis, leafy laminasia, and curly condrus,
also flourish well ; and with the broad-leaved ulva, the pur-
ple bagnia, and purse-like cod-rain, will form a beautiful
mixture of colors, that may well rejoice the heart of the as-
piring projector of the aquarium.

There is much difficulty in exhibiting by small engravings
the true portraits of sea-weeds, because the forms of the
most interesting specimens are minute, and more particu-
larly the details are such as can only be observed by atten-
live examination, aided, in some cases, by the microscope, or
by magnifying-glasses. To be transported from the seaside
to the collector’s inland home, these specimens must be very
carefully packed in damp sea-weed. The broad oar-weed is
the best for the purpose, being at once stout and smooth and
holding a greatamount of moisture. The weeds should be
replaced in their native element, in the tank, as soon as pos-
sible, before the least deciy has had time to set in. There
are certain periods in each month when the tide recedes
lower than usual, leaving a portion of the rocks dry that is
usually covered even at low water. If possible, these times
should be chosen for colleeting, for a rich harvest of beautiful
specimens is sure to reward the collector; and the plants that
just grow below low-watermark are exactly those that thrive
best in the narrow precincts of the tank. Very few of the
smaller specimens will fail to flourish if, when obtained, they

are quite healthy; but they must be carefully watched, and
any weed that exhibits the least sign of yellowness or decay,
-at once removed, before it can infect the rest. Avoid brown
weeds of the larger kind; they slough, and make the water
turbid and offensive, and thus ruin all your efforts.

. When the vegetable products of the ocean have been left un-
disturbed for a few days in the tank—a fortnight is not at all
too long—and the water asaymes a clear, greenish, crysta|

a

54 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

appearance,and when minute bubbles are seen adhering to the
sides of the leaves, and rising to the surface of the water, the -

time has come for introducing the zoological specimens: to
their new abode; for these minute bubbles are filled with
oxygen gas, and their presence is a sign that the water is in
a fit state to support animal life with all its requirements in
the way of oxygen. Now is the time to go out onthe sea-
shore in search of inhabitants for the newly-organized sea;
and we must give a description of some of the animals that
will best thrive in the aquarium, and a few directions as to
the method of finding and preserving them.

The SEA-ANEMONE, or ACTINTIA, in its different varieties, is
one of the first objects for which the young naturalist should
search —if, indeed, it can be called a search, when the objects
of quest lie scattered at low tide along every coast, and it is
rather a matter of selecting than finding; but on this selec-
tion the appearance of the aquarium will greatly depend.

These are the curions creatures that were once thought to
form the link betwoaen the animal and vegetable kingdoms.
Because they were found attached to rocks, it was contended
that they derived nourishment by a system of roots; and be-
cause they put forth long and slender arms, it was contended
that they had branches analogous to those of a plant; while,
being able to move their arms, and taking and digesting
food, they were held to partake also of an animal nature.

Attentive observation has shown, however, that they are
not permanently fixed to rocks: they have the power of
moving from one place to another, and attaching themselves
anew, whenever such a removal is desirable.

When the animal is left dry by.the tide, or is reposing or
feeding, the tentacula are drawn in, and the common orifice
closed, when covered with water, and searching for food,
the tentacula are extended, and move about with a gentle
undulating motion. When the anemone changes its abode,
it quits hold of the rock, and reversing its position, uses the
tentacula as legs. When shells, pieces of raw fish, or meat
are offered to them, if not too large, they will be imme-
diately seized and swallowed; and although the shells of
mollusks given to them may be firmly closed, they manage in
some extraordinary way to consume the fish and eject the
shells empty. :

There are many varieties of the sea-anemone; the hand-—
somest is the carnation-like sea-anemone, tinted in various —
shades of red. The scientific name for the carnation-ane--
mone is Actinia mesembryanthemum ; but Americans, who-
don’t in general care for long Latin names, have unceremoni- :
ously shortened this into ‘‘ mes.” There are other well-known j

"|

HOW TO KEEP A WINE OW GARDEN. 55

kinds of anemone, known as the ‘‘daisy,” the ‘‘ wheat-
sheaf,” and the ‘‘crass,” which is an abbreviation of cras-
sicrais.

A little below high-water mark, plenty of specimens of the
‘‘mes” anemone may be found. The more they are ex-
posed to the light and the air, the darker is their color.
Thus, the beautiful pale pink varieties are to be sought for
nearer to low-water mark, and in situations where overhang-

‘ing weeds or stones shelter them from the san. Those found
half-way between high and low water mark are generaily a
fine bright red; and the anemones in exposed positions are
almost brownish in the darkness of their tints.

The ‘‘crass” is generally to be sought for in crevices,
behind bunches of overhanging weeds. In your wanderings
along the coast, if you stop at any overhanging lump of rock,
from which sea-weeds hang down, so as to form a natural
‘screen, if you lift this screen, you will see some stones and
shells which seem to be arranged on some gelatinous sub-
stance. This substance isa ‘‘crass.” By touching the base
with your finger, you will find whether the crass is fixed on
the solid rock, or on the loose sand. If the former is the
case, better leave him alone, and search for another specimen ;
for he holds on so tightly, that you will scarcely succeed in
detaching your crass without injuring him in such a way that
he won’t live in the aquarium. A good many are generally
found togetker, so that there is no need to run the risk of
carrying away an injured specimen, as a little further search
will almost invariably show you plenty more crasses where

you have found one. Choose two or three that have fixed
themselves to small bits of stone or rock that you can chip off,
and bring them away with the stone. Thesmaller specimens
are best, for they live longest, and look most ornamental.

Small specimens of star-fish are very interesting objects for
the aquarium, with their strangely colored rays and extraor-

dinary motions. There are many varieties of this strange

creature. The star-fish has a considerable tendency to loco-
motion and is quite a lively object among the sedate occu-
pants of the aquarium. The brittle star-fish is one of the
handsomest specimens, displaying, in addition to its curious
form, vivid hues, arranged in beautiful patterns. It is called
brittle from the curious property of spontaneously dividing
itself, separating into pieces with wonderful quickness and

ease. Touchit and it flings away an arm; hold it, and in a
moment not an arm remains attached to the body. The star-
fish moves by means of a multitude of little suckers on the
under side of each ray, which adhere to the surface over
which he walks, on the principle of the leathern ‘‘ suckers”

form bunches of various sizes. They are furnished with:

56 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN.

with which boys raise bricks and stones, by exhausting the
air between the stone and the sucker. In traveling, the star-
fish puts three of his rays out in front, while the remaining
two follow behind. They are evidently affected by the pres-
ence of light, andin the aquarium will grow lively when a
lighted candle is brought near them. :

THE EcuHINus, commonly called the sea hedge-hog, or sea-
urchin, igs a great treasure for the aquarium, and may be
seized asa prize whenever found. They are mostly of a
conical or spherical shape, divided into five segments,
covered with minute holes, from which project tentacles,
serving as organs of locomotion, touch, etc. The surface of
the body is covered with shelly spines, of various forms and
thicknesses. The mouth isin the center; they feed upon
marine productions.

Mussels are bivalve mollusks, living in strong shells of an
oblong triangular form, terminating in a point. The head of
the animal is situated toward the point, near the hinge. Mus-
sels abound on rocks, and the piles of piers and quays, to
which they attach themselves by bunches of strong fibres.
When they move, which they sometimes do, they thrust a
tongue-like foot out of the shell, and fixing it some way in
advance, draw themseves onward. The mussel should al-
ways have a place in the aquarium. It is a very hardy
creature, and although familizr to everyone, is by no means
an uninteresting object of contemplation. It especially com-
mands our admiration, whenever, by means of its byssus
(formed by a number of silk-like threads), it anchors itself
to the sides of the tank, becoming so fixed that it would take
pretty considerable force to dislodge if.

BARNACLES are often to be found upon the sea-shore, drifted
thither upon the wood of a wrecked ship, or other floating
body. Wehave seen a ship’s mast, which had long driven
about at sea, literally covered with them. They are often
feund elinging in great numbers to the bottoms of ships,
greatly retarding their speed. They grow or live in clusters,
each barnacle consisting of a membranaceous branch or
arm, which is fixed to some body, the animal being invested
with compressed shells, attached to the pedicel. The larger
barnacles cluster with the smaller in the same group, and

many tentacula, with which they gather their food.

When ships covered with the barnacle arrive in our ports, th
barnacles are eagerly scraped off by men, who take them for
sale as marine curiosities, or who make their delicate whi
porcelain-like shells into some kind of fancy shell-work. The
barnacles themselves are eaten on some coasts of Africa,

—

HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN, 57

where they are very abundant. The shell of this animal is at
the end of a long fleshy stalk, generally of a purplish red,
sometimes of a bright orange color, and is of the form called
multivalve, being composed of five pieces or valves, two of
them on each side of the animal, and a narrow piece down
the back. It isa pretty shell, clear and brittle, of a white
color, tinged with pale blue.

THE ComMON Cras is too well known.to require a descrip-
tion of its peculiarities of form; but there are interesting
facts connected with the history of its species which are not
commonly understood. Some few species of crabs penetrate

‘to aconsiderable distance inland, and are compelled to re-
turn to the sea at tne period of spawning. Among the ma-
rine species, the majority do not quit the shores, while others
are found at great distances in the high seas, where they can
rest only on the floating banks of sea-weeds, so abundant in
the tropics. Some species again frequent only the rocky
parts of the coast, while others prefer sandy shoals, in which
they can bury themselves.

The most remarkable facts in connection with their history,
are their periodical moulting, and the recently discovered
metamorphoses which they undergo in the early stages of
their existence. Some very curious creatures, long regarded
by naturalists as a distinct genus, zoea, have been discover-
ed to be the Jarve of crabs, into which they ultimately be-
come transformed. These transformations take place when
the crabs are of very diminutive size, little larger than a flea;
and hence they are not open to ordinary observation, but may
be seen with the aid of a microscope, or a powerful ‘maguify-
ing-glass. At first the young crab appears with a curiously
helmeted head, surrounded by numerous lengthy processes,
and having large sessile eyes; in the second stage it presents
‘more of the crab-like character, the abdominal organs being
more fully developed. A similar metamorphosis takes place
among both the highest classes of cetacea; and in their
earlier stages of development they very nearly ‘resemble each
| ee though they may differ very widely when fully devel-
ope

THE SALT-WATER AQUARIUM.

HERMIT CRABS are Soft-tailed creatures, and, in the absence
of a shell to cover their posterior extremities, they occupy
‘the empty shells of whelks, or other mollusks, as they may
‘happen to find them. As they grow they are occasionally
obliged to quit their old tenement, and seek a larger one.
{ts manner of doing this is thus described by the Rey. J. G.
Wood:

‘‘When a hermit desires to change his habitation, he goes

58 HOW TO KEEP A WINDOW GARDEN,

through a curious series of performances, which, if he had
hands, we ahould be disposed to call manipulations. A
shell lies on the ground, and the hermit seizes it with his
claws and feet, twists it about with wonderful dexterity, as
if testing its weight; and having examined every portion of
its exterior, he proceeds to satisfy himself about the interior.
For this purpose he pushes his fore-legs as far into the shell
‘as they will reach, and probes, with their assistance, every
spot that can be reached. If this examination satisfies him,
he whisks himself into the shell. with such rapidity, that he
appears to be acted upon by a spring.”

[THE END. ]

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MLfHE CAVERN OF DBATH 220502508 oi. l ceases es By Gaston Garne
02. JH PPOsTAR IIUNCHBAOK « 20 ee. oo ee als oot eee sielee es By C. Little
103 IN THE CLOUDS WITH A MANIAC............. By John Shermar
104 A COUNTRY BOY DETECTIVE........... By Lieut. E. H. Kellegg

ONLY FIVE CENTS.

- Do not fail to purchase one from your newsdealer, as they all have

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|

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,
(Box 2730. 84 and 36 North Moore St., N. ¥.

HISTORICAL WORKS.

Famous Heroes and Heroines of History,

WITH NARRATIVES OF THEIR

MOST STIRRING ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA,
TOGETHER WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE

Great Battle-Fields of the World, Naval Engagements, ané
Noted Sieges. Price 25 cents.
For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and Canada, orsent
to your address, post-paid, on receipt of the price. Address

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,
Box 2730. 34 and 36 North Moore Street, New York.

Loves and Intrigues of Kings and Queens,

Embracing the Romantic Adventures of the most remarkable

Herees, Rulers, Statesmen, and Prelates,
who have figured in the History of the World, as well as the Amours of
THE GREAT EMPRESSES, QUEENS, AND PRINCESSES.

Price 25 cents. For sale by all newsdealers in the United States and
Canada, or sent to your address, post-paid, on receipt of price. Ad-
dress FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

Box 2730. 34 and 36 North Moore Street, New York.

Famous Assassinations of History,

From the time of Julius Cesar to the present day, embracing the
LOVES, ADVENTURES, AND REVENGES

of many of the great characters who have figured conspicuously in
the dramas of the world. Also containing the lives and tragic deaths
of the noted American assassins,

John Wilkes Booth and Charles J. Guiteau,
together with a full account of the MYSTERIOUS ASSASSINATIONS
IN PHENIX PARK, DUBLIN. Price 25 cents. For sale by all news-
dealers in the United States and Canada, or sent to your address, post-
paid, on receipt of price. Address

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,
Box 2730. 34 and 36 North Moore Street, New York.

Popular Songs and Ballads .43, Emerald Isle

The grandest collection of IRISH POEMS AND SONGS ever offered
to the public. The most popular effusions of Moore, T. Davis, Griffin,
Lover, Mangan, Walsh, Callanan, Banim, Kickham, F. Davis, Gold.
smith, Lever, Duffy, Casey, Meagher, Sullivan, O’Reilly, Locke, Meany,
McCarthy, Mulchinock, Savage, Doheny, with sketches of their lives.’
The book is beautifully bound, and should bein the parlor of every
family. For sale by all newsdealers, Price 25 cents. Sent, pos
paid, on receipt of price. Address

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher, 4

Box 2730, 34 and 36 North Moore Street, New York.

TH E

YOUNG MEN OF AMERICA

THIS SPARKLING JOURNAL FOR
YOUNG MEN

Is Fall of Interest from Beginning to End

Its stories cannot be surpassed, and its authors have a reputation
seldom equaled. Read the following array of talent, who write EX-
CLUSIVELY for this paper:

ALEXANDER DOUGLAS (Scotland Yard Detective)—TOM
TEASER—H. K. SHACKLEFORD—RALPH MORTON—
ALLAN ARNOLD—J.T. BROUGHAM—HAL STAND-
IsH—A. F. HILL—D. W. STEVENS—TOM FOX
(Philadelphia Detective)—-FRANK FORREST
—JOHN SHERMAN — HORACE APPLE-
TON—RICHARD R. MONTGOMERY—

COL. RALPH FENTON—PERCY B.

ST. JOHN—CAPT. G'10. GRAN-
VILLE,U.S.A.—_ALEXANDER
ARMSTRONG—JAMES
D. MONTAGUE, and
many others.

1
]

The Young Men of America

| Forthe year 1883 will be sent to your address, post-paid, for $2.50:
‘for six months, $1.25; and for three months, 65 cents.

CLUB RATES:

For every club of five names, sent at one time, together witb
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Box 2730. 34 and 36 North Moore Street, New York,

COMIC BOOKS.

Handsomely Illustrated.

FUN IN THIRTY-SIX DIFFERENT WAYS.
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The, Bald-headed. Club. » vc .«/<-siesiclgis'ss tv aluine lotelole stele sieieisia's 0's weisitie oy OU CEUN
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Funny Stories by a Funny Fellow

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:
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THE FIVE-CENT

WEEKLY LIBRARY.

—~
re SOD N DP TAPWNDe

25.

A NEW LIBRARY ISSUED EVERY MONDAY.

The following are the numbers already published:
Old Neversleep, by Walter Fenton.
Locomotive Bill, by Samuel Keene.

The Unknown Scout, by Zeke Baxter.

. The League of Blue, by Paul Spry.

‘*27;” or, The House of Many Doors, by Philip
Murdock.

Young Lynx, the Amateur Detective, by Rich-
ard R. Montgomery.

The Phantom of the Waves, by Alexander Arm-
strong.

The Twin Boy Scouts, by Percy B. St. J ohn.

. Sumter’s Aide, by Capt. Geo. Granville, U. S. A.

The Young Sharpshooters of the Rebellion, by
Col. Ralph Fenton.

. From Drummer Boy to General, by Richard

R. Montgomery.

. The Drummer Boy Spy, by Ralph Morton.
. Union Dick, by Philip Murdock.
. Lazy Jake, the Boy Spy of the Rebellion, by

Col. Ralph Fenton.

. Union Dick in the Rebel Camp, by Philip Mur-

dock.

. The Brand of the Desert, by Walter Fenton.
. Pinkerton’s Boy Detectives, by Jas. D. Montague

Blue Cap; or, The Australian Dick Turpin.

. Barnum’s Boy Ben, by Commodore Ah-Look.
. Yankee Bob, by Ralph Morton.

. Joe Ready, by Richard R. Montgomery.

. The Boy Swordsman, by Perey B. St. John.

. Daddy Durge, the Old Man of the Dead-House,

by Walter Fenton.

. Union Dick and the Guerrillas, by Philip Mur-

dock.
Cavalry Jack, by oe Ralph Fenton.

For sale by all newsiedlérs. o1 or will be sent to your address, post-
paid, on receipt of price, 5 cents per copy. Address

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

Box 2730. 34 and 36 NORTH MOORE ST., NY.

OUR COMIC BOOKS.

FUN, LAUGHTER AND AMUSEMENT FOR EVERYBODY

‘These books are superior to any that have ever been published.

ro 4
a

CONSULT HE FOLLOWING LIST: ve

GOING TO THE COUNTRY...... by “ Bricktop”..Price 10c
NF OF Did 5 0 Jd Maat St oes Sr eRe ey” by “ Bricktop”..Price 10c.
A QUIET FOURTH OF JULY...by “Bricktop”’..Price 10c.
GOOD TEMPLARS EXPOSED...by “Bricktop”..Price 10c.

COND Ase RG, osc oss Lletplclitae we ancte sa tere by ‘“ Bricktop”..Price 10c.
MY WIFE’S MOTHER............ by “Bricktop’’..Price 10c.
THE BALD-HEADED CLUB....by ‘‘Bricktop”..Price 10c,
OUR SERVANT GIRLS........... by “Bricktop”..Price 10c.
WHERE ARE YOU GOING ?....by ‘‘ Bricktop ”..Price 10c.
DODGING A CREDITOR......... by: $e ces -Price 10c,
SHORTS (original humor)............... 0.5.00 eeeseeee Price 10c.
SMILES (entirely new)..........-.. A Tee eS i558 Price 10c.
MRS. SNOODLES’ CURTAIN LECTURES,......... Price 10c.
POUNDS OB (BUN 2A 2s <uo oteacinuwecatctarsieis cies lets amemierene Price 10c.
THEE PPIC WILE Rese 2s.2 < co eekc « celdetaines soeanae en --Price 10c:

Every book is handsomely il.ustrated by the best comic artists:
Any one of them is a sure cure for the blues. For sale by all news
dealers, or sent to your address, prepaid, on receipt of price, ten centy
each. Address

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,
Box 2730. 34 ard 36 North Moore St., N. Y.

rs

Frank Tousey’s |
BY-THE-WAY SERIES,

Containing five interesting and exciting works of fiction. Each book
is handsomely bound in a beautifully-illustrated cover, and contains
sixty-four pages of reading matter. Every book is a complete num-
ber. Read the following titles: ;

No. 1. VIOLA’S REVENGE .... 2... ..e cece eee eee ec eeees Price 100.
No. 2, A YEAR OUT OF MY LIFE...... so bieleinwere.e clots Price 10c.
No. 3. A CAPTIVE’S CAPTIVE............ccccceenes Price 10c,
No. 4. THE BROKEN SIXPENCE................... Price 10c.
No. 5 LADY INNOCENCE...... Se oe Py Re: Price 10c.

For sale by every newsdealer in the United States and Canada, or we
will send them to you, postage free, on receipt of the price. Address —

FRANK TOUSEY, Publisher,

Box 4 and 36 North Moore St., N. Y.
He 3 Zé | Bee

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“mek Bik des Srssonna ee GA Se gel ed

OUR 10 CENT BOOKS

USEFUL, INSTRUCTIVE A AND AMUSING.

Containing valuable information on almost every subject. such as Writin
Speaking, Dancing, Flirting, Cooking; also, “Rules of Et. practi, Tl
Art of Ventriloquism, Gymnastic Exercise, and The Science ar
Art of Self-Defense.

READ THE FOLLOWING LIST:

How to Behave = ° . = 7? . Price 10 Cen
How to Dress am,” . . Price 10 Cen
How to Play Games . ° . - Price 10 Cen
How to Keep Birds ° - . . Price 10 Cen
How to Keep House . ‘ ie 2 . Price 10Cen
How to Make Love . . ' . . Price 10 Cen
How to Write Love Letters . ° : « Price 10 Cen
How to Explain Dreams . 5 S * Price 10 Cen
How to Tell Fortunes : . . . Price 10 Cen
How to Row, Sail and Build a sik ° ° Price 10 Cen
How to Keep and Manage Pets. . ° . Price 10 Cen
How to Become a Magician . 3 2 Price 10 Cen
How to DolIt . 5 . : . ° - Price 10 Cen
How to Do Tricks : : . ° . Price 10 Cen
How to Write Letters : % ° : . Price 10 Cen
How to Cook : - . . 5 Price 10 Cen
How to Entertain an Evening Party . 2 - Price 10 Cen
How to Become Beautiful . . . . Price 10 Cen
How to Flirt, ey ° ° -. ts) Sewige 40 Gen
How to Become a Ventriloquist . . . Price 10 Cen
How to Be-eme Rich e . > . - Price 10 Cen
Hox te Box ° : ° ° . ‘ Price 16 Cen
How to Dance . ° : i ° : ve Price 10 C |
How to Become an Athlete . : . ° Price 10 Cen
How to Become a Speaker . eee eee - Price 10 Cen
Hew to Play Cards F 5 ° te price 10 Ce
How to Hunt and Fish ° . ° > oy. / Price 10 Cen
How to Become a Scientist . . i aes Price 10 Ce

How to Become an Inventor * 3) Price 10 Cen
The Boys of New York Minstrel Guido and J oke : 4

Book . . e . . ‘ a Price 10 Ce
The Shortys’ Snaps . : S . ©. Price 10 Cen
The Shortys’ Jokes : ; - . ie Price 10 Cen
Muldoon’s Jokes _.. ° ‘ . Price 10 Ce

Frank Tousey’s United States Dihskainins Tables, 4
Pocket Companion and Guide : . Price 10 Ce
Ireland’s Struggles for Liberty and ITand . - Price 10 Ce

All the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the Um
States and Canada; or they will be sent, postage paid, to your address
receipt of 10 cents each.

Frank Tousey, Publisher, 34 & 36 N. Moore St. ny N , |

AUG 76

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