IT HOW To 8 SUBURBAN HOME| 2% GROUNDS HERBERT J. KELLAWAY OopyrightN° em, COPYRIGHT DEFCSIT ae P eee oe A 3 ) ' op ; t ’ 4 so we . . ce ree i 4 ” a Puate I. FRONTISPIECE. A small quiet nook of a place nestled among trees, and carpeted with green around. And there a brook should murmur with a voice of outdoor happiness. — And, then, health in balm should come about my path and my mind be as a part of every fragrant thing that shone and grew around me. —DoueGias JERROLD. HOW FO. LAY OUT SUBURBAN HOME GROUNDS BY HERBERT J. KELLAWAY LanpscaPE ArcHiITEcT; F,A.S.L. A. SECOND EDITION. ENLA R GED" FIRST THOUSAND SEIS NEW YORK JOHN WILEY & SONS, Inc. Lonpon: CHAPMAN & HALL, LimitEp 1915 : Re, a 1 4 Wai COPYRIGHT, 1907, IQI5, BY HERBERT J. KELLAWAY ” MAY 27 1915 : ©oad01141 VY Lo 2 PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. LanpscaPE Architecture is to-day recognized as one of the fine arts. The application of this new art is becoming more universal as the days and years go by, not only in the large public and private undertakings, but even about the modern moderate home for which this work was especially written as an inspiration. That it has accomplished much in making the home surroundings beautiful is the best reason for the hope that this edition will be helpful ig lied load oe Boston, Mass., February, 1915. PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. Ourpoor art is to-day recognized as necessary to the com- pletion of a home. What are the best methods to pursue in designing small suburban grounds? As an assistance to those with moderate incomes wishing to secure beautiful surround- ings, the following thoughts are written. They are not intended to deal with the treatment of large estates or explain the many principles of landscape architecture, but only as an incentive to good taste. The need for planning and “counting the cost” before begin- ning the construction of the house is apparent. ‘The problem should be treated as a whole, rather than to consider the grounds as an afterthought. It is not my intention that the plans and sketches shown shall be designs to be carried out, but only as an example of what can be done. [Every site presents conditions and oppor- tunities which should be taken advantage of in the develop- ment. As every locality has plants that are indigenous to the region, it seems useless to merely give an extended list of trees and shrubs, but to direct the reader to a means of securing the knowledge in one’s own community. In the hope that many may be inspired to seek better things about the home this small work is sent forth. HERBERT J. KELLAWAY. Boston, Mass., June, 1907. CONTENTS. PAGE CHARTER el How To Brecin a SUBURBAN Homer -— PLANNING BEFORE BEGINNING . 3: CHINE EESae UL CHOOSING THE HomEsITE — THE TREATMENT OF DIFFICULT SITUATIONS 8 CHAPTER III Pricimcan, Urinitiks AND) ARr COMBINED... =. :.-. «5 « ss «6s «6 16 CHARTER lv: OwnersHiIp — THE Survey — THE PRELIMINARY PLAN AND THE (Cimaromacrer IRDA 3 5 6 do : Ee ett bi Orn ea ee eae oF Ec 23 CHAPTER V A Goop Drsign NEEDS Goop CONSTRUCTION .....:« « «© « ay ail CHARI SV ARCHITECTURAL ADORNMENTS ON THE GROUNDS ......e.e.. OO CHAPTER VII ELOWAeTORNAKaCAU IAW ANGEat wen ttc Ae ere ielinc a mee. athe Fr eet) CHAPTER VIII WHat To PLANT AND How To Maker THE PLANTING PLAN ..... 64 CHAPTER IX How CAND AWHEN | TOUETANT “2 4.005 4 « 6s Seder Ghaeriel coon cope el wee CHAPTER X TREES—DEsIDUOUS AND EVERGREEN—A Frw DestRABLE Kinps . . 95 Vill Contents. CHAPTER XI PAGE SuruBs—DeEcipuous AND EverRGREEN—A Frw Harpy Kinps— A hravao} Kunio (Coolio cong Adisnojan, JBi0@ONe 95.5 ao 6 oo go Ge ou o » Oe CHAPTER XII Harpy Hersaceous PERENNIALS—A Frw DESIRABLE VARIETIES— ‘Maven Auspoy (Gonooi @ip Iisapinn, Wise 5 6 6 6 6 co oo 6 0 OZ CHARTER, xc VINES AND ANNUALS—A Frew DestraBLE VARIETIES, How To Start THE SEEDS BO lee No eel aa BSc ety mest mee cane oe aera Ly CHAPTER XIV How to Know THE PLANTS TO USE—THE SPHERE OF THE LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT—THE VALUE OF Goop DESIGN nN eh becom te ented re ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Prare I, SUL cere eee Ts ae UE oh ene aap SU ne ae we .. . Frontisprece Pirate II. House Designed in Harmony with Natural Conditions . . . 5 PiateE III, A Well Developed Suburban Community ........ 5 Prate 1V,: An Example of Good Development... .... ... 9... 9 Pin Ve a VWianterSCenes au.nicn es vee ey chillers) ST Sua vag eos AP gs: 9 Prate VI. A “Back yard ” made with a Simple Lawn andGarden. . 17 Puare VII. The Rear of the House Made into a Terrace Garden with Sundial : at Mg Bs Secure ies 17 Puate VIII. Walled Sle: Ganon, Street ; Side Oh gies Weal sca he Becgeseaee von ch emo PuatE IX. Walled Flower Garden, Inside View 21 Pirate X. Drive Located on Simple Curves ..... ee ee TOO Pace Xa) Steps and Walk Made to: Fit’Slope .©, 8. «4.00... . dk READ eis “surubbery-atsbaserot Houses. 3. 0a 6% asst 6 = « ee a Puare XIII. Stepping Stones to Overcome a Grade ........ «45 PNATH OCLs Ay Well’ Built; Walls... “sys. bs 8. seus) ie Beast, S a Be eS) Piare XV. Kitchen Entrance Screened in Conjunction with eee AGerh go ls eee rane mtabe Sa eae Mea nn PuatrE XVI. One Type at faeces Yard Pence 5 ales 47 Puate XVII. Wall Built of Boulders and Ledge Stones, cov ee with AINE Saige Ae a aires te cao rote heist OY ty Katee ee WenewscL pnt Atel dtne: Me OS Prare, XVII. Service Entrance toMstate- 2... ss = Ses os) 88 Prarie, Adlerrace.Mlawer Garden, ‘i x.) i. sc eat ea ee Oe IPAs NOX. AN longer Circle, Bop Biomclael 5 2 4 4 a 5 6 6 a 6 © 57 Prats XXI. Brick Walk in a Terrace Flower Garden ....... £59 Pirate XXII. A Flower Bordered Walk. SL dR Sa ae Mt crceene Me ded to PEATE SOX It; Wiall and Gate-at: Kitchen Entrance .. =. ...:... «4 @ PiAGE Ce KU eA Brick-ipoundanyay Wally & ints me feleels) Tei ee as ant ty) 0 Puare XXV. A Tree and Shrub Embordered Lawn ........ «78 Prar—E XXVI. An Open Lawn Between House and Street. ..... 73 PisrieOovul, NaturalyStvle okilreatment® |. As kc 6.6) a.ei ous ee Prats XXVIII. Natural Style cf Development .......... @ (d:¢ x Illustrations. PuaTe XXIX. Appearance of House Before Planting................ Pirate XXX. Appearance of House After Planting . Ptare XXXI. Appearance of House and Grounds Before Peathont PLiare XXXII. Appearance of House and Grounds After Study and Development . care Pirate XXXIII, Aas of ice ea Greens After Grading A Before Planting PLATE XXXIV. ee ae of Foe an meas After Study ae Planting . a Sa hears PuaTe XXXYV. Ter srrace Cttee Hore aceous ak re peat ; Puats XXXVI. Herbaceous Flower Garden : Puaté XXXVII. Bird Bath Walk from Flower Gee ; Puate XXXVIII. Flower Garden on Grounds of 13 acres in extent. Puate XXXIX. Terrace Garden, Herbaceous Perennials and Vines. Brick Walk one Stearn. 3 Prats XL. Simple Treatment of Gudee House 3 Prats XLI. Simple Entrance to Kitchen Porch and Yard PLANS AND MAPS. Pian I. Preliminary Plan for Treatment of Level Open Lot . . Puan IL. Topographical Map Estate “A” . Puan Ill. Preliminary Plan for Estate “A”. .....45.- Puan IV. Grading Plan for Estate “A” . . 2... +e > Puan V. Simple Treatment of Nearly Level Lot . ...... RisaneVile gelatine Plam state 9A2 to lee so Ae aie uel vey eae Pian VII. Tape Measured Survey of Estate “f B” Puan VIII. Preliminary Plan for Estate ‘ B” . Puan IX. Preliminary Plan for Estate “‘C” . Pian X. Topographical Map of Estate “C” .......-. PUAN ee Clan Crossisectionkon Estate) Cas meee titel (el cll ten vol t= Pran XII. Topographical Map of Estate “ D”’. PLAN XIII. Preliminary Plan of Estate “D” . Puan XIV. Topographical Map of Estate ‘‘ E ” Pian XV. Preliminary Plan for Estate “ E”’. HOW FO LAY OUT SUBURBAN HOME GROUNDS. Vee T artist so noble as he who, with far reaching conception of beauty and designing power, sketches the outlines, arranges the colors, and directs the shadows of a picture upon which nature shall be employed for generations before the work he has prepared for her hand shall realize his intentions. —FREDERICK LAW OLMSTED. CHAPTER I. And a Man shall ever see, that when Ages grow to Civility and Elegance, Men come to build stately, sooner than to garden finely; as if Gardening were the Greater Perfection. — Francis Bacon, JHE first man, Adam, began life in Paradise, the garden of Eden. Is it too much to say that the home spirit is inborn; the love of home a force and the desire to own a home the crown of a man’s am- bition? The mystical ideal is ever present not in mere wood, stone, and land, but is clothed about with life. The memories of childhood days are of the living things, the home folk, the animals, the trees, the flowers. There is no deep attachment to inanimate objects unless embodied with the mystery of home life and spirit. Man wants a home. The delights of ownership and the responsibilities are subject to the same laws, whether it is the rich man in his palace or the poor man in his meagre cottage. The ability to realize and attain the ideal is limited by circumstances. Often the supposed excessive expense is in the imagination. If the ideal were made tangible in the form of a well out- lined plan of action and development the desired result would be secured. Without such plan not infrequently funds are spent in securing poor or second-class treatment of the home grounds, Can the ideal be attained? Yes; perhaps not all at once, but little by little as funds permit. The scheme must be out- lined and a determined and settled purpose will accomplish | what was seemingly the unattainable. The house is usually the first thought. Instead the beginning should be on the ground, the location, quality, surroundings, and possibilities z 4 How to Lay Out for development. The adaptability of the site to secure the ideals of the home builder should be considered, whether it is a shrub embordered lawn, a flower garden, or natural or wild grounds. It is possible to create effects on almost any site, but every natural feature should be utilized. A home well begun is half done. Consideration should be given, besides the cost, to the “upkeep” or maintenance. The cheapest method of development and least cost for care is to have mostly lawn and shrubbery. The more details planned, such as arbors, terraces, and gardens, the greater will be the expense for keep- ing them in order. See Plates II, VIII, IX, and XX. Moderate places can be kept in order as a morning and even- ing exercise to the busy city worker. If larger grounds are attempted it may be necessary to hire a man by the day occa- sionally or secure his services permanently. This expense can be found by inquiry as to prevailing rates. Another item of expense that should be thought of, is the purchase of fer- tilizers and materials for repairs. It is a good idea not to attempt too much or plan beyond one’s means or possible future income. Often one sees a house occupying the larger portion of the grounds, built out of proportion to the size of the lot available. Such large houses give the idea of a one-sided life. It is an inside life, not broad and cheering as the home plot well devel- oped can give. The house is usually the first thought and where shall it be placed, it being a universal feeling that anyone can locate a house. The inexperienced usually determines the location of the grounds without serious consideration as to the loca- tion of the walks, drives, lawns, clothes drying yard, coal hole, or sufficient thought as to sunlight. A fine view is often the determining point. This, at first, may be inspiring to the owner and to the occasional visitor, but the effect of the views gradually wears away. Consideration of comfort, sunlight, and air are more lasting and need serious thought. Puiate. II. House designed to harmonize with red cedars existing on the ground, showing good taste. Puate III. oreysy deur jeorydeasodoy TI NVIg erm Around Court “Tigh Berm Arovn Se SOS 13 °d ‘SpUNOAS OY} YIM osnoy ayy suTdziim yueurjve.y uado afdurg «Vio» 99R4SH TOF UR], { AreurMTetg “TTT Xvid FILS 0S or og = 02 “L334 40 31V9S 0! 0 Tat nC ns hae See oe a2) ay Wes oNS i+ wi i Vee Oo fannpana5aansaeaoeaee 5 reap : : 5A eeetsagrer cca a te were es aoe tess ace, fee Ga ie me ait ee aS We ' ee be — a2 Bo AD ; : : 3 ae poet fie 4 ' 1 1 Bey Sean Ts ir 1 aad yf A Are 1 0 1 \ Eis? Neate 1 of Oe oe ih ae ae ' ' ; nen ine) Wo) te was eee te HoaUy 4+ : ox ' fy eat ( ‘ 2 ' : 2 , ; i] ' aly 4 toy Sane a hs ; é . ' 1 \ Eon’ ' ' y ' a A Hees a) ee “ ! te eerie: Nad tay, Mio regteergoone[g ihe \otbed epee a x i) = a g'62Z+9 0 : ipaano 2 ; oooDocD! € a) Bas677, osn0089g8 e 2 im oo a Fe ie » ‘ i) : d ‘ ps ‘ “ - a Cine re t r lad et F ry fod » . we. ' Miasd 7 ae Pa i} ; oe es i te aay iV a ¥. t a) 7 ¥ . eA Cae ee: q at Sa a ; f Ay ro x / y e C4, as = v4 a 5 P. : Ss \ ye 5 wie rll ht 2, ie &; j . ! ; A Me Par h ¥ 4 * ae ” ' i @ Ee j Ps] ‘ h m ba . » ar 7 J a eo ~ ard a \ i ‘gas é 2 a-t9 5 A ‘ ~ > - os ' ¢ f 4 ¢ 7 \ r Suburban Home Grounds. 29 tion of walks, drives, gardens, lawns, and tennis courts in their relation to the house and to each other. See Plans III, IX, and XV. The height of the first floor above the street should be deter- mined, allowing for the height of the under pinning of the house and the necessary slopes to the street. At this point if there is much difference in elevation a cross section should be made to assist in determining the height. See Plan XI. Before going too far, examine the practical points such as the coal delivery, the delivery of supplies to the house, the relation of the living room windows to the sun and to the lawn or garden. There may also appear difficulties in grade for the walks or drives which will need adjustment. See Plate XX. That which is usually carried in the mind’s eye on the ground will appear out of place and awkward when drawn on paper and studied. Drives that would seem easy enough in grade, and graceful in alignment, will be found to be excessively steep and crooked when drawn and figured. The supposed position for a lawn or flower garden will be found to be impossible. The bulkhead or coalhole may need to be moved or a flight of steps or a door introduced into the design of the house in order that access to the lawn or garden may be made direct. After- thoughts in building are always expensive, and there are many examples of what “not to do” in the houses and grounds that have been carelessly constructed. See Plans VII and VIII. The outlines of the beds of shrubs and position of the trees are then added to the preliminary sketch, but not until all the practical points have been determined. There must be a use for every portion of the grounds the same as there is for the house, whether for service, pleasure, or adornment. If the problem is too difficult an experienced landscape architect will be of assistance in sifting the chaff from the wheat in the ideas and give unity and originality to the scheme. Having determined the preliminary sketch the next step is to enter more into detail of both house and grounds. 30 How to Lay Out At this point, if the home builder has not sufficient confi- dence or knowledge (and most men are wise enough to know their deficiencies) to carry out in detail the plans for the house an architect should be consulted. When the architect’s plans are completed and the specifications are drawn, the wise man plans his grounds in detail, or calls in a landscape architect to make a plan that will use all the materials excavated econom- ically. The plan is called a grading or working plan. It will show the excavation and fills to be made to get the desired shape, the location of the walks, drives, ete., with their proper grades and indicate the depth of topsoil to be used for a lawn, garden, or for planting beds. See Plan IV. A specification accompanying the plan should state the character of work and kind of materials required. It is not necessary to complete all the work planned at one time; a portion can be carried out with the excavated materials from the cellar. The remainder of the work can be completed from time to time as funds become available. By thus working to a definite end, the completed whole will eventually be secured. The work should be thoroughly done for good results. ‘gout, anoqwoo {nz Aq sesueyo posod -ord ‘gouty an0ju09 payjop Aq UMOYS OOLJAMS SUISTXO OJON — ¢,°W 1» OVISA 1OF UVTI Suipery “AI XVIg >: aonudg ane a teas aes Bene ardsaqhz jrosdoy (See eee ae Gas 09s go hate lose to turn ¢c at side of property, carriage Ss Visitors al e V Drive located on simple cur PLATE X. ubbery hr Ss y up the drive. echt halfwa 5 i kitchen door and laundry yard. border screens drive from house lawn. Suburban Home Grounds. 25 CHAPTER V. What is worth doing at all is worth doing well. GOOD design needs good construction. The execu- tion is often beset by many difficulties largely caused by lack of knowledge or the failure to appreciate the value of good work. Man can judge of, and will pay for, a good piece of wood or stone work, but in the grounds there is often an effort to save expense at the loss of good results. By all means the use of poor soil or rubbish should be avoided in the filling, as it will show later when an attempt is made to grow grass or shrubs. The disposition of the subsoil and the topsoil must be carefully watched. Not every man who can handle a shovel well can grade well; the workmanship of the skilled artisan is displayed even in this menial type of work. A man with good judgment will save extra expense by scheming the work to avoid much double handling of soil. A good way is to clear the topsoil from a small area in both the portions to be excavated or filled, and pile the soil in some convenient yet out of the way place. Then make the exca- vation or the fills, and when more area is needed to work on, clear away some more topsoil and place it over the filled subsoil in its permanent position. In grading or shaping the ground every effort should be made to have the slopes graceful and smooth. There is a line of beauty known as the ogee curve, which can be used in grading with as good results as by artists in their work. See Plan XI. In making the side slopes to a drive or walk, care should be taken to grade them to graceful lines and make them soften into the adjoining grounds, avoiding any sharp or abrupt angles. If anyone observes the natural slopes which occur in 36 How to Lay Out fields they will see that there are no harsh lines, and wherever man has made excavations, nature is trying to soften the sharp edges and remove the ugly defects. The location of a drive is important to its success. It should conform to the topography and shape of the land. It should be planned to save any valuable existing features or a fine boulder, a good tree, a ledge or a group of desirable shrubs. Drives are means of ingress and egress, and should serve these purposes quickly. The direction should be made very simple; unnecessary crooks and turns are only awkward, not beauti- ful. After once entering the property and having seen the house, it is a poor plan to make the drive meander about. It should be made as direct as possible. To the moderate home, there should be some reason for building the drive other than for the delivery of coal. The added expense of basketing the coal at 25 cents per ton is more than offset by the cost of the maintenance of the drive. See Plates X and XVIII. It is a poor plan to make the house appear like an oasis in the desert by the encircling of the drive. The drive surface is not very handsome in itself and should not be made wider or more extensive than is necessary. Lawns, shrubberies, and trees are more to be desired than barren drives. Many a beau- tiful lawn has been separated from the house and spoiled for enjoyment by a poorly located or unnecessary drive. If there are no existing features to be saved or as a guidance or excuse for a curve it may be necessary to plant trees and shrubbery to give reason for the direction planned. Never use a flower bed or small architectural object or an urn; they are too trivial. The width of the drive is determined by the frequency of use. If the distance is short and there is but little driving a width of 9 or 10 feet is ample. If the distance is longer or where there is need for carriages passing each other, the drive should be made 14 or 16 feet in width. On no account should a drive be made 12 feet in width, as it is too wide for a single drive and not wide enough for two vehicles to pass without Suburban Home Grounds. 37 damaging the turf edge. It is a very deceptive width to per- sons driving and meeting another carriage as it looks wider than it really is. A muddy drive is a poor introduction to the home grounds. The surface drainage from the land adjoin- ing the drive and the drainage of the drive itself may need to be taken care of by means of subsoil drains. If the subsoil is clay or very wet, underdrains should be used on the sides or in the middle of the drive. This is done by digging a narrow trench 3 feet or 4 feet below the proposed finished surface and laying 2 inch or 3 inch agricultural tile at the bottom of the trench in such a slope that the water will run through them. The joints of the tile should be covered with bur- lap or tile collars used in addition to prevent the Joints becom- ing clogged. The water passes largely from the land into the tile through the joint. In filling in the trench, first throw some hay, stone, or inverted sod over the tile, then spread a layer about 6 inches in depth of small field stone, broken stone, or coarse gravel as an additional means of drainage. After this is done the soil may be refilled and tamped with a rammer. The surface water can be taken care of by forming a groove or turf gutter at the side of the drive or by building a narrow gutter of stone or brick. If there is a large quantity of water flowing from the adjoin- ing surface it may be necessary to use a catch basin. A very economical way to build one is to use three lengths of vitrified sewer pipe, 20 inches in diameter, set on end. On top, an iron grating is set to fit into the bell of the pipe. The middle length of the pipe should have a “T”’ outlet usually about 6 inches in diameter. From this the drains can be connected and laid to the desired point of discharge. Smaller sized catch basins can be built to take care of a smaller flow of surface water. The joints of the pipe should be all sealed with cement mor- tar, and it is a good plan to set the bottom upright pipe in cement. This then forms a catch basin that will hold the debris 38 How to Lay Out running into the basin. This basin will need to be cleaned out occasionally. This is done by removing the grating and using a long handled shovel. The drain pipes should be laid on an inclination sufficient to get good flow. In excavating for the drive all the topsoil and poor subsoil should be removed to a depth of 2 feet if necessary, and a foun- dation replaced of good clean material, gravel or refuse stone. The bottom should then be brought to a rounding surface, allowing for the depth of the finishing material, gravel, ma- cadam, or Telford. If there is but little travel, a gravel drive will be satisfactory. It can be built by using two layers of gravel 4 inches in thick- ness. The bottom layer should contain the larger stones or coarser part of the gravel and rolled toa fine surface. On this layer the finishing 4 inch layer can be placed. This should be good binding gravel with the larger stones raked out. Then the surface should be rolled smooth and to a rounding shape or crown of 4 inch to the foot at the sides and round in the middle. It seldom happens that gravel can be obtained of the required quality in the pit. If the gravel is too coarse it should be screened through a 24 inch mesh screen. A two and one half ton horse ring roller is the best to use for rolling the drive on small grounds. If there is more driving, or there is not a good quality or quantity of gravel in the neighborhood, a macadam drive should be made. This can be built by using 4 inches of crushed stone of the 14 inch size, laid and shaped in the same manner as for the gravel drive and rolled to a firm surface. On this rolled surface is next placed a 1 inch layer of smaller crushed stone and sereenings mixed. This should be watered and rolled until a smooth hard surface is obtained. The same crown should be made in finishing as described for the gravel drive. If there is a great amount of use, or if there is a large quan- tity of stone on the grounds, a Telford drive can be built on a (‘e108 SYIYSTO-aAy ynoqe vary) ‘1100p UIYOWY $,1OQYSIoU 9Y} SUIGIOS UspIVS JO pus 4e lOSIOg “4OT [eA] AyAvou AO uUoTTYeeT4 eidug *A NvIg ee os or of 02 ol ° "4334 40 3979S 1334815 fa , CRE rs a Boas y : me kes eee E os ¢ fe eo) se §fo000000 o HIEM 8U0}S ca © oo 29 5 3 0 Jo NMV) mo Se - 0 ory a ° oe tea me > oy 4%, sey Rea ne ‘ % ; © a Sits) on et EB Oo TORE EE BOE aE pu dbAdtiy obwat 1G Fiap = 9 COORG au caeet he ee Sais v2 atu aN ae aot ‘in it) Cre Ah het eee y Tree weal A toh ais «4 é i " Ri. ' ’ A , * ‘ LOA * ‘ Wii 7 a : i Ms Te ee , f i eee a ara » ’ ¢ Ad =} 7 at ' bd i * | mh pen, ty ee ¥ 1 Le 7) ; be v : " . e.) 7 - iz ‘« 2 ¥ f > ." ’ i a4 4 . a ? = 4 y , . 4 : ¥ fF 1 4 ‘ : A J Fi | . . : ‘ , , , « ee WOT}Isodu109 SnolmoMAIey Ue soyvM spunois Suruic(pe ‘sdajs uo 149910 A puv esnoy jo asvq ye poyurid Ateqqnayg ‘“JTxX alvig sisdojodury ‘adojs yy 03 y[VM pue sdajqg “TX aLVIg Suburban Home Grounds. 43 foundation shaped 1 foot below the proposed finished surface. The bottom layer of stone is composed of pieces of broken stone averaging 8 inches in size, set upon end. The spaces between the larger stones are filled and wedged with smaller pinning stones. On this bottom foundation layer a 3 inch layer of the medium size 14 inch or 2% inch crushed stone should be placed and thoroughly rolled until smooth. After this has been done a finishing layer 1 inch in thickness of small crushed stones and screenings mixed should be placed, rolled, and watered until a smooth hard surface is obtained. If necessary a little clay or binding gravel may be used for a binder in the finishing courses. The grades of the drive should be as easy as possible; an approach or main entrance drive should not have over 5 feet rise in the 100 feet, a service drive not over 7 feet. In extreme cases it may be necessary to increase these figures to 10 feet in the 100. Walks or paths are designed and built on the same deter- mining principles. There should be some reason for their being: as, to go to an arbor, a tennis court, the doors of the house, or other buildings. Mere meandering walks without any occasion for their use are not objects of beauty. They may be constructed either of gravel or macadam, and the widths vary from 2 to § feet according to the purpose to be served. The grade of the walk should be as easy as possible, never over 12 feet in 100. A crown of + inch to the foot on the sides and rounding in the middle is ample for a walk. See Plates XXTI and XXII. In steeper slopes where it is desirable to carry a walk, steps should be used to overcome the steep grade. These can be built to fit the ground or may be short flights with a short run of walk between each flight. The steps may be built of wood, stone, or brick. See Plate XT. When there is but little use, yet a means or communication is desired, stepping stones should be substituted for the walk. 44 How to Lay Out This will remove the effect of the walk dividing the lawn and reduce the maintenance to a minimum. Stepping stones are made by using slabs of stone or flat boulders set into the lawn flush with the surrounding surface. A good distance apart for the stones for convenient walking is 22 inches on centres. If settlements should take place on the lawn about each stone, it is a@ very easy matter to raise or lower them to conform to the surface. If they are kept at the proper elevation a lawn mower will pass over and cut the grass without the need of using shears along the edges as is often used in other kinds of walks. See Plates III and XIII. A clean yet more expensive method is to build the walk of brick. A good foundation should be made to avoid settle- ments. If the work is properly done there will be no repairs. The bricks can be laid herringbone fashion, lengthwise, cross- wise of the walk, or in various patterns. A little curb edge may be formed along the side of the walk by elevating a brick on its side about an inch above the general surface and the earth filled flush with the top. The color of the brick should harmonize with the building and its surroundings. Yellow brick should be avoided, red is the most pleasing color to use. See Plate XIX. The use of artificial stone, often called granolithic, makes a good but more expensive walk. The foundation for this kind of walk must be thoroughly made and good under drainage provided to avoid disturbance by the action of frost. It may be necessary to remove poor or clayey soil to a depth of 3 feet and the space filled with dry gravel, broken stone, or boiler cinders; the depth will vary to suit the locality. See Plate XV. The walk is then divided into sections varying from 3 to 6 feet square by the use of strips of wood nailed to stakes driven into the ground. If settlement takes place, each block will sepa- rate as a single stone without cracking. The stones can be laid alternately or continuously by sanding the joint, or with a strip of paper placed between before laying the next block adjoin- ~ ill i ui aee 4 III YIIY fais SELES Aaa Puate XIII. Stepping stones to overcome grade to street end of terrace garden. Puare XIV. Well built wall, note raked out joints and slight batter. Turnstile instead of gate. Bit Puate XV. Kitchen entrance screened in combination with laundry yard. Celastrus scandens (bitter sweet) on archway. Puate XVI. A laundry yard fence designed in harmony with the house. Suburban Home Grounds. Ke) ing. The bottom layer of the walk is usually laid 3 inches in thickness, composed of one part best American Portland cement, two parts clean, sharp sand, and four or five parts broken stone. After the bottom layer is thoroughly rammed, a finishing layer one inch in thickness is laid, composed of one part cement and one and one half parts clean, sharp sand or one part cement and two parts stone dust. The surface is then finished smooth with proper tools and protected from the weather by coverings until the surface is firm and hard. The rate of grade in a granolithic walk should not be over 5 feet in 100 feet, never over 7; a safe rule is to use it only on walks that bluestone flag stones would be used. The surface is so smooth that it is dangerously slippery when too steep. The color of the walk can be varied to red or slate by the use of coloring pigment. Slate blue color may be obtained by the use of lamp black; slate color is obtained by the use of one pound of lamp black to a barrel of cement. Red color is obtained either by the use of red sand or ground red sandstone or venetian red or both mixed. Reds are liable to fade. The limit of color is five pounds to the barrel of cement. Another method for walks and drives is the penetration method. The foundation layers are laid in the same manner as outlined for Telford and Macadam work. The lower layers are filled with screenings, sand, or gravel and the upper layers are rolled and bound with bituminous materials, either a mixture of pitch and tar or asphalt. There are several brands known to the trade with varying merits according to the uses of the drive or walk. The finish of these surfaces are made with pea stone rolled into the first coat and on the second coat of the preparation screenings are spread and rolled in to get the macadam appearance. 50 How to Lay Out CHAPTER VI. And some praise must be allowed by the most scrupulous observer to him who does_ best what multitudes are contending to do well. — S. JoHNSON. wera) ANCY free the dreamer thinks of arbors, seats, and cool retreats, yet to build and make real in lines of beauty is no dream. An arbor in the grounds may form a vista point in the landscape, be the excuse for ending a wa'k or the means of commanding a fine view that otherwise would not be seen from the house. If near the house, it should be designed to be in keeping with the architecture of the building. If at some distance away from the house spruce poles, cedar slabs, or roots make good work. It is usually better to have a floor raised at least one step from the ground. It is a good plan before building to observe structures that have been built by others and note if they are inharmonious with the house and grounds. Then avoid these in building on the home grounds. The more dignified name for an arbor is a pergola (the name is wrongly used), useful to inclose a lawn, a flower garden, or help hide some objectionable feature in the neighborhood. It should look when built as if it belonged to the place and not appear as if dropped by a passing wind without relation to the house or lawn. See Plans V, and VIII and Plate XIX. Grape or flowering vines can be grown over it making on hot summer days a pleasant retreat from the heat of the house. See Plates VIII, IX and XXI. A seat to end a walk or command a view is better built on plain and unobtrusive lines. If buit more on the style of an old fash oned bench or form, it wil be less conspicuous than the many commercial designs offered for sale. Suburban Home Grounds. 51 The arbor or pergola may be planned so as to form one side of the laundry or clothes drying yard, helping to make a very desirable feature. See Plates XV and XVI. If a laundry yard fence is to be built it should be about 7 feet high, and designed architecturally correct. The posts of such a fence may be either of red cedar, white cedar, chest- nut, or locust, so that the chance of decay will be largely over- come. Make the mesh of the lattice close enough to hide the clothes from general view, and yet open enough to allow a circulation of air to dry the clothes. The use of a laundry yard should be encouraged as it is a great aid in keeping the grounds neat and helps to form an artistic setting when vines and shrubbery are well placed. A very practical advantage from the housekeeper’s standpoint is, that the clothes are shielded from the gaze of outsiders, and the despoiling by dogs or other animals. The clothes may also be laid on the grass to bleach in perfect safety. Spruce poles set closely together with the bark left on make a good fence. This kind of fence will last for years and will avoid the necessity of painting. Fences may be needed along the street front for the pro- tection of the grounds.