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HUNTER'S LIFE

LIONS, ELEPHANTS,

OTHER WILD ANIMALS OF SOUTH AFRICA.
BY ROUALEYN GORDON CUMMIMG.

WITH AN INTRODUCTION

BY BAYARD TAYLOR..

CnXfPTJiTE.
TWO VOLUMES IN ONB.

NEW YORK :
DERBY & JACKSON, 119 NASSAU STREET.

CINCINNATI :-H. W. DERBY & CO.
1857.

£:smzs ikccording to Act of Ce ijrefs, in the yeui IsIS, by

J. C. DERBY.

H Um Clerk'a Office of th* District Court ut tb* u. s. lui the Southern OiMrir.t M' N«w Ymk.

TO HIS GRACE Tilt DUKE OF ARGYLL.

My pear Duke,
I dedicate my "Adventures in Africa" to your
grace for two reasons — to mark my respect as a kins-
man, and because I know the interest you take in the
sports of the field and in the habits of wild animals.

My volumes lay claim to no other merit than that
of a faithful narration of facts as they occurred ; and
having been written far away from literary appliances,
and often on occasions when the cravings of hunger
were a more pressing consideration than the graces of
composition, I trust to your indulgence to overlook in
the success of my rifle the failure of my pen.
I am always, my dear duke,

Your affectionate kinsman,

RouALEYN Gordon Gumming.

Altyrt

INTRODUCTORY SKETCE OF TEE AUTHOR.

Mr. Roualetn Gordon Gumming, the Niinrod of modern
times, is a native of Scotland, and connected with the noble
family of Argyll. His passion for the chase seems to have
developed itself very early in youth, for long before he went
to Eton to complete his studies, his room was a museum of
hunting trophies. In the county of Moray, in the western
part of Scotland, where his boyhood was spent, he was soon
noted for his indefatigable devotion to the sports of the field,
and his fondness for natural history. " Salmon-fishing and
deer-stalking," he says, " were my favorite amusements ; and
during these early wanderings by wood and stream, the
strong love of sport and admiration of nature in her wildest
and most attractive forms, became with me an all-absorbing
feeling, and my greatest possible enjoyment was to pass whole
days, and many a summer night in solitude, where, undis-
turbed, I might contemplate the silent grandeur of the forest
and the ever- varying beauty of the scenes around."

After completing his studies at Eton, he entered the Indian
army, and was attached to the Madras Light Cavalry. Sail
iiig in 1839 to join his regiment, he touched at the Cape of
Good Hope on the voyage out, and there made his first essays
in that field wherein he has since become so famous. In

Vlll INTRODUCTORT SKETCH OF THE AtJTHOR.

India he hunted tigers, buffaloes, and wild elephants, and
would no doubt have attained a reputation for tiger-shooting
equal to that of Gerard, the Algerian lion-hunter, had not the
climate proved prejudicial to his constitution. For this reason
he retired from the service and returned home, where he
resumed his old pastime of deer-stalking on the Scottish hills.
But he was a born savage, and after the taste of fiercer and
nobler game which he had enjoyed, soon grew weary of such
tame and secure sport. He longed for the imrestrained free-
dom of the wilderness, and we soon find him procuring a
commission in the Royal Veteran Newfoundland Companies,
with the idea that he would thus be brought nearer to the
" ravages" of the Moose, and the pasture- grounds of the Bison.
He soon found, however, that his opportunities of hunting
even the caribou, or reindeer — almost the only game in New-
foundland— were very small, and he finally effected an
exchange into the Cape Riflemen, and in 1843 returned to
South Africa and entered upon that career which is recorded
in the following pages.

While attached to the Riflemen he accompanied a military
expedition into the country of the Amaponda Cafl'res, and
there formed the design of devoting himself to the chase and
penetrating into those rich hunting-grounds to the north,
where the crack of the English rifle had never yet been
heard. Selling out his commission, he procured the outfit
of a pioneer, and commenced the barbaric, adventurous life
of a hunter, which in the course of five years yielded him
trophies sufficient to freight a vessel. During this time he
was not only a hunter, but an explorer. In the summer of
1844 he penetrated to the Baraangwato Mountains, in lat.

INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR. IX .

20° S., and was the first European to enter that field in which
Dr. Livingstone has since achieved so much renown. In fact,
the Bamangwato country, which is about two hundred miles
to the north-west of the frontier missionary station of Kolo-
beug, is but a short distance from the great lake N'gami,
which Dr. Livingstone afterwards discovered. Mr.. Gumming
made five journeys into the interior, and by his tact and fear-
lessness no doubt smoothed the way of the explorers who
succeeded him.

On these journeys he kept a journal of his exploits and
adventures, noting them down upon the spot, while the
impression was yet fresh in his mind. His work thus pos-
sesses an air of reality, which brings the scenes vividly before
our eyes, as we read, and fully atones for any lack of grace
\n his style. " The hand, wearied all day with grasping the
rifle," he says, " is not the best suited for wielding the pen."
But if the hand is weary, the hunter's heart is not ; and the
relish with which he relates his deeds of butchery fascinates,
while it often shocks the reader. We see the savage rather
than the sportsman, and this rude, unreserved, yet wonder-
fully graphic and picturesque language, is the best evidence
of the honesty of the narrator. Mr. Gumming has frequently
been accused of exaggeration, and many of his exploits are
truly of an astounding character ; but the life of every
Rocky Mountain trapper presents incidents as remarkable,
and we see no reason for doubting his veracity. Those who
know the man personally, have assured us that they place
implicit faith in his narrative. The museum of trophies,
which he has exhibited in London, for the last four or five
years, furnishes additional confirmation of his inarvellous

X INTRODUCTORY SKETCH OF THE ATJTHOR.

daring and luck. His work is unique of its kind, and it ■will
be long before we have another hunter, who, to such a round
of adventures, shall possess equal skill in relating them,

Mr. Gordon Gumming is a tall, rather slender person,
about thirty-eight years of age. For some time after his
return from South Africa, he preserved a barbaric indiffe-
rence to conventionalities, and astonished Regent Street, by
promenading in a sailor's blue shirt. Highland kilt, and a belt
garnished Avith knives and pistols, while his hair, which
rivalled Absalom's, was confined in a bag of silk netting.
Many curious and characteristic anecdotes of him are related
by his London acquaintances. At present he is nightly
repeating, to crowded audiences, the story of his hunting
.ife, illustrated with panoramic views, and with the skulls
horns, and hides of his slaughtered victims. A London
editor says : '• He talks, with the easy familiarity of a
Doudoir, of life-tussles with cobras and lions, making small
drawing-room jokes about his old enemies, and occasionally
catching up a date by easy reference to his hundredth
elephant encounter."

a T.

Jew York, J\rovember, 1855.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

CHAPTER I.
Preparations for a Hunting Expedition — Cape Traders — Traveinig —
Trader at a Farm — Dangers of a Tradei-'s Life — Articles for Barter-
Dissuasions from the Enterprise — iV'Jy Outfit — Hunting Rlieebok —
Wild Flowers » I'age 17

CHAPTER n.
Mysteries of Inspanning — Cape Wagon and its Furniture — Departure
from Grahamstown — My head Servant leaves me — Impassable State
of the Roads — My Wagon in a Fix — Change of Route — Singular In-
stinct of the Honey-bird 32

CHAPTER III.
Fearful Descent of Do Bruin's Poort — District lately deserted by Ele-
phants— Noble Forest-trees — The Great Fish River — Cunning Boers
— Burning Effects of the Sun — The Dutch No6's Green Tea Oint-
ment— Skill of the Hottentots in " Tapping the Admiral" — Beauti-
fully wooded Country — The Village of Cradock — South African Cli.
mate — Countless Herds of Springbok — Mynheer Pocheter — The
Way to make a Friend on the Thebus Flats — Hendric Strydom —
Hunting for Springbok — Extraordinary Migrations of these Ante-
lopes 51

CHAPTER IV.
A Bustard shot — Flight of Locusts — Quagga Shooting in the Dark-
Curious Mistake — Ostriches — A Sportsman napping — Leave Stry-
dom's Residence in quest of Wildebeests — Wildebeest Shooting —
Meeting with a Brother Officer — Proceed to Colesberg — Additions lo
Equipments 73

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Colesberg — Jaging Springbok — Vast Herds of Game-
Swarms of Flies — Oology — A Nomade Boer's Encampment — Anec-
dote of the Gemsbok — Cobus rides down a splendid old Bull Gems-
bok — A Night in the Desert — Paterson arrives — Bushmen — Their ex-
traordiuarv Raids across tho Desert 88

Xll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.
Hard Chase of an Oryx — A briudled Guoo reduces himself to a deoA
Lock," and is taken — Paterson slays a Gemsbok and a Bull Wilde-
beest—He leaves for Colesberg— Ostrich Eggs— Novel Method of
carrying them — Anecdotes of the Ostrich — Affray with a Porcupine
— He proves a rough Rider for my Horse — Narrow Escape from the
Thrust of a dying Oryx — The grateful Water-root — Troops of Spring-
boks cover the Face of the Land — Their Migrations — The 6uest shot
at my Leisui-e — Beer Vley Page 102

CHAPTER VH.
Leave Beer Vley — A Bushboy captured and enlisted as a Follower —
Famous Sport with Wildebeest and Quaggas from a Hunting-hole —
Water fails, and we march to the Great Orange River — Beautiful Ap-
pearance of the River — Stink Vouteyn, a famous sporting Quarter—
An Osti-ich's Nest — Bold Mountain Ranges — The Griqua Tril^e, their
Manners and Customs — An ancient Mimosa Forest — Residence of a
Bushman — Successful Chase of a noble Bull Oryx 116

CHAPTER Vm.
We leave Stink Vonteyn and reach the Vaal River — Wait-a-bit Thorns
— Chase and kill a Buck Koodoo, and bivouac on the Ground — Co-
bus and Jacob abscond — Roan Antelope — We recross the Vaal River
— Griqua Encampment — Stink Vouteyn again — A Flight of Locusts —
A Salt-pan— Salubrious Climate — Boers attempt to carry off Ruyter
— A Cameel-dorn Forest — A Brindled Gnoo bayed by Wild Dogs-
Habits of the latter 135

CHAPTER IX.
The Riet River — Nomade Boer Encampments — Surly Reception at a
Boer's Farm — Lions slain by the Boers — Cowardice of the Boers in
Lion Hunting — Rumors of War between the Boers and Griquas—
The Mirage of the Plains — Habits of the Blesbok — A knowing old
Hog — A Snake under my Pillow — A Troop of W^ild Dogs come upon
me at Night in my Shooting-hole — The Roar of Lions — Curious Facta
concerning them 153

CHAPTER X.

Boer Encampment — A Night in a Storm — A Fancy Costume — Fear-
ful Encounter with a Lioness — "Colesberg" dreadfully mangled —
Cowardice of Hottentots — We march back to Colesberg — Danger of
being plu'idered by the Rebel Boers — Arrival at Colesberg — The
Troops n irch against the Boers — The Battle o" Schv/art Coppice—

CONTENTS. xm

Start fot the distant Land of Elephants — The Hottentots make free
with my Brandy, and mutiny — Leopards — Kuruman — Mr. Moffat,
the good Missionary — Roasted Locusts Page 177

CHAPTER XL
Motito — The Bechuana Tribes — The mysterious great inland Lake-
Blesbok and Wildebeest abundant — Park-like Country — Wp arrive
at the beautiful Vale of Bakatla — Dr. Livingstone, the Missiuaary —
Native Fashions at Church — Determine to push on to Bamangwato —
The Natives follow me for Venison — Great Variety of Game — A dan-
gerous Fight with a Herd of Buffaloes, two of which are slain — A
Colony of Baboons — A Rhinoceros chases me round a Bush — Habits
of the Beast — A noble Eland killed — An impromptu Steak — Slay a
Rhinoceros, and lose my Way in the Forest 199

CHAPTER Xn.
My Hottentots object to advance further into the Interior — A Boar
Hunt — We march through a charming Country — The Mountain Pass
of Sesetabie — A Lion and Lioness inspect my Cattle, and the Lion
pays for peeping — Hungry Hyaenas sup upon the Cattle Furniture —
Ihe Camelopard- Descri2)tion of its Habits — Booby, a Bechuana
Kraal — Gun Medicme — Disastrous Finale to an Incantation — Native
Conspiracy to prevent my further Progi-ess 221

CHAPTER xm.

The Guides try to mislead me — The Cattle and Horses dying from

Thirst — Search for Water — Melancholy Anticipations — Directed to a

Pool by the Flight of Birds — Chase and kill a Giraffe — Wandering

Bechuanas point out my right Course — Miserable Condition of the

Natives — Game Pitfalls — Mimosa Grove smashed by Elephants — A

inoceros charges me — Abundance of large Game — Lost in the

orest 241

CHAPTER XIV.
The Bamangwato Mountains — The Elephant's Fountain — A Troop of
colossal Giraffes — Elephants drinking by Night — Habits of the Afri-
can Elei)hant — Elephant Hunt — A Bull shot after a dangerous En-
counter— Cutting out the Tusks — Extraordinary Rocks — Mountain
Retreat of Sicomy, King of Bamangwato — His Cunning — Barter Mus-
kets for Ivorj' — His Majesty's. curious Gun-practice — Trading for Na-
tive Weapons 257

xiv

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XV.
Take leave of Sicomy — Diggiug for Water — The Elephant's Fountain
again — A wouiitled Roan Antelope bays in the Water, and kills my
Dogs right and left — Sicomy's Camp again — We march through a
beautiful Valley — Curious Instinct of the Rhinoceros Bird — A miglity
Bull Elephant shot after a hard Conflict — IMutchuisho's Attentions
more charitable than pleasant — Cutting up an Elephant — A strange
Scene — Baking the Flesh — Primitive Tobacco-pipes — Biltongiie Fes-
toons Page 285

CHAPTER XVI.

Elephant Spooring with the Natives — The Mystic Dice — Hunt in a
Wait-a-bit Thorn Cover — Romantic Gorge in the Mountains — Sabie
— Ancient Elephant Path — Ludicrous Native Signal — A noble Bull
Elephant slain — Isaac, my Interpreter, dismissed — A Lioness bagged
at one Shot — Drunkenness and Disorder in Camp — My Manner of
taking the Field after the larger Game — Sicomy's Followers deseil

me aa*

FIVE YEARS' HUNTING
ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

CHAPTER I.

Preparations for a Hunting Expedition — Cape Traders — Traveling
Trader at a Farm — Dangers of a Trader's Life — Articles for Barter-
Dissuasions from the Enterprise — My Outfit — Hunting Rlieebok —
Wild Flowers.

Having resolved to make a hunting expedition into
the interior 'of Southern Africa, my first object was to
seek out some experienced person, able to give me the
necessary information as to what purchases I should
require to make in the way of wagons and oxen, and
as to my outfit in general, and I accordingly pitched
upon an individual of the name of Murphy, a trader in
the interior, who, I had reason to believe, was better
acquamted than any other person in Grahamstown
with the frontiers of the colony, and the adjoining ter-
ritories of the Griqua and Bechuana tribes, situated
beyond the Great Orange River. With this person I
had already had the pleasure of becoming acquainted
durino- the short time I was quartered in Grahamstown
in the month of July, haying been introduced to him
by another trader, a man from my own land of Moray,
famous among the Dutch Boers about and beyond the
frontiers. This man's name was Andrew Thompson,
of Forres, one of three brothers, all of whom followed
the same adventurous line of life, and were as steady,

ly ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

hard-working, and determined young men as might be
met with throughout the colony.

As, in the course of the following pages, I may have
occasion to allude to these traders, and others of a
similar avocation, it will, perhaps, be as well to give
the reader a sketch of the manner in which their oc-
cupation is conducted. Each trader is supposed to be
the proprietor of one or two ox-wagons. These they
" load up," from the large stores of the merchants in
Grahamstown and Port Elizabeth, with every species
of merchandise which the far-dwelling isolated Dutch
Boers are likely to require. So supplied, they set out
on their long journey, which usually occupies from six
to eight months ; at the end of which they return to
the colony, enriched with immense droves of sleek oxen
and fat wethers, selected from the numerous herds and
flocks of the pastoral dwellers in the interior. The
wagons of a trader generally contain every requisite
for a farmer's establishment: groceries, hardware, bales
of cloth and canvas, haberdashery, saddlery, crockery
— in short, every thing, from an awl for the Boer to
mend his "feldt schoens" or country shoes, to a roll
of cherry-colored or sky-blue ribbon to tie up the bonny
brown locks of his fair davighters, whose beauty, like
that of Skye terriers, I fear, in many cases, consists in
their ugliness. They, however, sadly lack the ^ dega-
gee" appearance of the Skye terrier, as their general
air and gait might be more aptly likened to a yard of
pump-water.

As the trader advances up the country and effects
exchanges, he leaves the cattle or sheep which he has
bartered in charge of their former master, picking them
up on his return southward. "When all his goods are
disposed of, he generally winds up his barter by ex-

CAPE TRADERS AND THEIR AVAGONS. 19

changing the wagon or wagons which bore them for
cash or oxen, or both, and then, purchasing a horse, he
returns in hght marching order to the colony.

The price which a trader gives for a wagon is usu-
ally from d£40 to £60, and in war times often a thou-
sand rix dollars, or £75. The number of oxen which
he usually obtains for it at the close of his journey is
from forty to fifty, and these he is supposed to select
himself. The value of the wagon is partly dependent
on the character of the tent. Tents are of two kinds;
the one being coarsely yet strongly constructed of green
boughs fitting into iron staples along the sides of the
wagon, and lashed together with strips of green hide
so as to form a succession of arches overhead. These
are kept in their position by means of long straight
wands laid all along the outside of the arches, the
whole frame-work being very strongly secured b}' the
afore-mentioned strips of green hide. On the top of
this are placed coarse Kaffir mats made of reeds, which
act as a Scotchman (to use a sea-faring phrase) to keep
the wagon-sail, which is of stout canvas, from chafing.
The other variety of tent is of a less homely build, and
is termed by the colonists a cap-tent wagon. It re-
quires the hand of a skillful wagon-builder, and is much
more elaborately finished, the wood, which supports and
composes the tent being all neatly sawed and planed,
and fastened together with iron rivets.

This description of wagon is preferred by the aris-
tocracy among the Boers, as presenting a more dis-
tingue appearance, when they drive their fraus and
children on a round of visits, which they are constant-
ly doing, or when flocking to the " Nachmal," or com-
munion, which happens three or four times in the year.
The former, or common wand tent, however, possessed

20 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

a great advantage over the cap tent, inasmuch as, in
the first place, it is cheaper by £10, and, secondly, if
broken in a capsize, which in Cape traveling is an affair
of common occurrence, it is easily repaired on the spot;
whereas the cap-tent wagon, if once upset, is irretriev-
ahly ruined.

When a trader arrives on a Boer's farm, he halts and
walks up to the door to inquire where he is to " out-
span," or unyoke the oxen, and also in what direction
the oxen are to be driven to graze. At the door he is
met by the baas, or master, generally pipe in mouth,
w^ho, cordially greeting him with one hand, raises his
hat from his head with the other. The Boers lay great
stress on this piece of etiquette, which has to be gone
through with a whole string of juvenile Boers follow-
ing in the rear, each incased in a very roomy pair of
inexpressibles, and crowned with an immense broad-
rimmed tile, nearly half the size of its wearer. Per-
mission to outspan being obtained, and a few compli-
mentary speeches interchanged, the trader inquires of
the Boer if he has any fat oxen to handle or barter, to
which the Boer either at once replies in the negative,
or more commonly says, " I do not know. What have
you got on your wagon ?" The trader answers, " I
have got a little of every thing, and all of the very best
quality, and you shall have any thing you require as
low as a trader can possibly sell it. I shall presently
unload a little for your inspection." The Boer politely
says, " No, no, mynheer, you must not offload ; it would
grieve me that mynheer should exert himself so much ;"
to which the trader replies, "It is no trouble; we are
accustomed to do it, and it is our business." The
trader then instructs his knccht, or head servant, to
make a parade of the goods, and he then accompanies

THE TRADER AT A FARM. 21

the Boer into the house, where dinner will shortly make
its appearance, to which the Boer invariably, in the
most hospitable manner, makes every white stranger
welcom.e. Plere, if the trader is wide awake to his own
interest, he will pay marked attention to the Noe or
frau, as no bargain or transaction of any nature can be
ratified with a Dutchman without her full concurrence
and approval. The Dutch are particularly cleanly in
their establishments and cooking, and, moreover, pos-
sess a very fair notion of the culinary art, their tables in
general being graced with several very excellent and
substantial dishes. When dinner is over, all hands re-
sort to the wagon and overhaul the merchandise, where
it is ten to one but the Noe will find about fifty differ-
ent articles which she will prevail upon her husband
to believe indispensable in the private economy of his
establishment. Thus, when " handling" once begins,
it often goes on briskly, and from a Boer who at the
outset declared himself independent of the trader's sup-
plies, as many as two or three, or even half a dozen,
fat oxen may be obtained.

As the trader knows well from past experience that
the Boer will be sure to endeavor to abate his prices, he
makes a point of asking a little more than he intends
to take, so as to be able to give in to the Boer's im-
portunities, who, with a sly wink at his wife, congratu-
lates himself on his shrewdness, and flatters himself
that he has run a hard bargain.

When the trader has collected all his cattle, he drives
them by steady marches of from twenty to thirty miles
in the twenty-four hours, which are performed chiefly
during the night, to Grahamstown or Beaufort, where
he disposes of them to butchers. At the former place
they are purchased for the use of the town, and by the

22 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

government contractors for the supply of the troops.
At Beaufort, which is on the high road to Cape Town,
they are purchased for the supply of the Cape Town
market. The payments for the cattle are seldom, if
ever, made in hard cash, the poor trader having to con-
tent himself with approved bills, drawn at six and nine
months, which in too many cases are never honored,
the defaulter being found either bankrupt, or to have
bolted for England or California. The life of a trader
is hard and harassing, and he is often liable to very
heavy losses by deaths from severe drought, distem-
pers, and other causes ; also from the chances of war,
oxen straying and being found no more, overstocked
markets, and non-payments as above, besides the dan-
ger to which he is exposed from the attacks of wild
beasts. During the time that he is engaged in driving
his oxen, his rest is necessarily broken and disturbed,
and, being compelled to watch his cattle every hour of
the night, in all weathers, he is obliged always to have
his clothes on, and to sleep when he can, after the man-
ner of sea-captains in bad weather, who hang their nose
on to a ratlin, and so take a nap. As an instance of
the injury from chances of war, I may here allude to
the severe losses sustained by my friend Mr, Peter
Thompson, who, during the war which ravaged the
colony in the years 1846 and 1847, was returning to
Grahamstown with a large herd of some hundred fine
oxen, the well-earned proceeds of a laborious and toil-
some expedition, when he was attacked in De Bruin's
Poort, a rugged and densely- wooded ravine, within one
march of Grahamstown, by a band of the marauding
Amaponda Kaffirs, armed with guns and assagais, who
swept off the whole of his drove, he himself barely
escaping with his life.

ARTICLES OF COMMERCE. 23

In years when the prices of cattle are low, these
traders occasionally vary their line of march, and, for-
saking the Boers for a season, they load up a suitable
cargo, and direct their course for the Bechuana tribes,
from whom they obtain ivory, karosses (skin cloaks),
and ostrich feathers, along with various curiosities, for
which they obtain a ready sale in the Grahamstown
market, where good ivory averages from 45, to 4s. Qd.
per pound. Karosses vary in price from d£l to £3 each,
according to their size, kind, and quality. Ostrich
feathers used to fetch from d£5 to £6 per pound, but,
partly owing to the feathers being less worn by the
votaries of fashion in London, and partly to the lato
disturbances throughout Europe, the prices have great-
ly fallen.* The articles required for trading with the
Bechuana tribes consist of beads of all sizes and colors,
brass and copper wire, knives and hatchets, clothing
for both sexes, ammunition, guns, young cows, and she-
goats. The two latter the trader obtains in barter from
the Boers, Griqua and Koranna tribes, more immedi-
ately adjacent to the colony. Some writers have er-
roneously stated that snuff and tobacco are a good cir-
culating medium among the tribes in Southern Africa,
but in the course of my experience I can scarcely re-
member having ever obtained the smallest article in
barter for either, not even a drink of milk. The natives
have certainly no objection to receive these articles
when given gratuitously, but are far too wide aw"ake to
place any great value upon them. During my career
in Southern Africa I have had much experience in
trading with the Bechuana tribes, and, as I shall have
occasion to refer to my trading exploits in the course

• From Beventy-five to ninety good sized ostrich feathers weigh it
pound.

24 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

of my narrative, I have entered into the above partictt-
lars, that the reader may at the outset form an idea of
the manner in which these things are conducted.

On making inquiries, I had the pleasure to find that,
contrary to my expectation, both Andrew Thompson
and Murphy were still in Grahamstown, where I had
left .them about three months before, when I marched
thence into Caffraria with my regiment ; and the lat-
ter, whom I found to be a confirmed tippler, was able
in his few lucid moments to give me much valuable in-
formation relative to the preparations which I required
to make in the way of purchasing oxen and wagons,
engaging servants, &c., &c. ; also various wrinkles as
to the con-ducting of my establishment, the hours *f
marching, and the line of country which I had chalked
out for my first expedition. Poor Murphy! he was as
kind-hearted a creature as ever breathed.

From the 1st till the 22d of October I was actively
employed in making the necessary purchases and ar-
rangements for my coming expedition, and in forward-
ing my affairs, in which Murphy, during his sober in-
tervals, most willingly assisted me. As the reader will
observe, my establishment at my first outset was on a
much more limited scale than upon subsequent expe-
ditions. This was partly owing to the uncertainty
which I felt as to the success of my sporting under-
takings, and the length of time which I might feel in-
clined to devote to this line of life. I was much in the
dark as to what sport I might expect to realize, and
what difficulties I should have to encounter, in the trip
[ was about to make ; the truth being that I could not
find a single individual, cither among the natives or the
military, who could in the smallest degree enlighten
me on the subject.

PREPARATIONS AND DISSUASIONS. 25

The general impression among my military friends
was, that any game which remained in the interior
must have, ere then, retreated to such remote parts,
far away in the territories of savage tribes, as to be ut-
terly beyond the reach of any sportsman, however en-
terprising ; and when they saw me bustling about,
ma]\;ing my purchases, they used to sa}'" to me, " It is
all nonsense your laying out your money in this way.
Wny don't you rather go home at once to your own
country ? We shall see you returning in a month or
two, like those fellows who went on a shooting trip last
year, with a coup-de-soleil and an attack of dysentery,
utterly disgusted with the country, and selling ofl' all
these things on which you are now expending so much
capital."

The shooting party here alluded to consisted of one
officer of the 7th Dragoons, two of the 27th, and others
who, having obtained a few weeks' leave, and burning
to distinguish themselves in a campaign against the
ferae of Southern Africa, had hired a wagon and pene-
trated as far as the Thebus Mountain, where for a few
days they enjoyed some good sport among the black
wildebeest and springboks which abound on the plains
surrounding that mountain ; till, having broken the
stocks of their rifles in falls from their horses while im-
petuously "jaging" the game, they returned to head-
quarters, one suffering from coup-de-soleil, and the rest
from dysentery brought on by drinking bad water, they
having been unfortunate in the vley beside which they
had fixed their encampment. My gallant friend Lieu-
tenant H , of the 91st, was one of the most urgent

in endeavoring to dissuade me from my steadfast pur-
pose of trekking up the country, and recommended me
rather to return with him to England, whither he -vas

Vol-. I — B

26 ADVEKTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

about to proceed. He and I had sent in our resigna-
tion of her majesty's service at the same time, and, fortu-
nately for us, by some mistake our papers were mislaid
at Cape Town, and not forwarded in the usual course,

whereby we gained several months' pay. H , who,

like many others of the military, entertained a profound
disgust for the colony and every thing connected with
it, at first could hardly believe that I was in earnest
when I spoke of going up the country ; and when con-
vinced that such was my determination, he said, with
a strong lisp which was habitual to him, " Good G — ,
Cummin ! you are thurely mad to remain longer in
thith country after you have obtained leave to return
to dear old England. I athure you, I had rather be a
thoe-black in England than live in thith beathtly coun-
try,"

Notwithstanding these friendly dissuasions on tho
part of my acquaintance, I continued to prosecute my
affairs so unremittingly, that on the 22d I considered
my manifold arrangements complete, and, being much
harassed and annoyed by the unavoidable delays to
which 1 had been subjected, I was full of impatience to
make a start. These delays were in a great measure
occasioned by the weather, heavy and constant rains
having fallen during the previous fourteen days, accom-
panied with a cold wind off the Southern Ocean. This,
of necessity, materially interfered v/ith and delayed me
in my arrangements, and had also the effect of render
ing the country perfectly unfit for locomotion, in many
places cutting up the roads with rugged, impassable
water-courses, and in low-lying districts converting
them into deep, impracticable quagmires.

It will here be necessary to give a detailed account
of my outfit, to put the reader at once in possession of

OUTFIT. 27

the extent and nature of my establishment and camp
equipage. My first object was, of course, to secure a
traveling wagon, and I had the good fortune to obtain
an excellent new cap-tent one, complete with all its
gear ready for inspanning, from JMr. Ogilvie, of Gra-
hamstown, for the sum of £60, which, as it eventually
proved to be a right good one, was decidedly a bargain.
I very soon, however, found out, as I extensively col-
ected specimens of natural history, that one wagon was
insufficient; and not long after, in the town of Coles-
berg, on the frontiers of the colony, I purchased a sec-
ond, also a cap-tent wagon, with its necessary accom-
paniment, a span of oxen ; and at a later period, as the
reader will subsequently learn, I found it necessary to
purchase a third, and became the proprietor of consid-
erably more than a hundred draught oxen.

yrom an English farmer in the vicinity of Grahams-
town I obtained a span of twelve excellent, well-trained,
black, zuur-veldt oxen, which I judged suited for my
work, they having been in the habit, with their late
master, of bringing in very heavy loads of wood to the
Grahamstown market. Their price was £o each ; and
as it is not unusual to see an ox, in the best of spans,
knock up on long marches, by Murphy's advice I pur-
chased two spare oxen of Mr. Thompson.

My stud of horses as yet consisted of but two, which
had been my chargers in the regiment. These were
" Sinon," a stallion which I had bought of Major Good-
man of the 27th, and "The Cow," an excellent dark-
brown gelding which I had obtained from Colonel Som-
erset of " Ours." I did not think it wise to lay out
more money in horse-flesh in Grahamstown, as I should
ohortly have to pass through the Hantam, where most
of the Boers breed horses extensively, which are famed

28 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

for their spirit and hardiness throughout the colony. I
engaged four servants — namely, an Englishman called
Long, as head-servant, a thorough Cockney, who, as I
afterward learned, had formerly been a cab-driver in
London, and whom I took into my service at Murphy's
recommendation. Long being supposed to possess a cer-
tain degree of experience, having penetrated as far as
the banks of the Orange River on a trading excursion
on his own account ; but his heart, as the event proved,
inclined more to worship at the shrine of Venus than
at that of Diana. A certain little dark-eyed damsel,
who acted as laundress to the military, and who was
employed all day in driving her mangle, seemed entire-
ly to engross his thoughts. Long frequently observing
that "there was that sweet little creature obliged to
drive a mangle who ought rather to be sitting practi-
cing at her ' pihanne.' "

My other three servants were natives. A wagon-
drivcr named Kleinboy, a stout, active Hottentot, with
the high cheek bones and woolly head of his race, and
who was quite au fait at his department. Like many
others of his countrymen, he was subject to fits of sulks,
and much preferred reclining for hours under my wag-
ons, or in the shade of a bush practicing on his violin,
to looking after his master's wcrk. My leader's name
was Carollus : he was the third whom I had engaged
in that capacity, the other two having absconded. He
was a stout, powerful fellov^', descended from the Mo-
zambique races. He entered my service under cover
of night, having absconded from Kingsley of "Ours,"
that gentleman, according to his assertion, being in the
habit of administering a. little wholesome correction
with the jambok, which, on further acquaintance with
him, I had reason to believe he richly merited. My

SERVANTS AND STORES. 29

third native servant was Cobus, a Hottentot of light
weight, the son of a veteran in my regiment. He 'list-
ed in the capacity of after-rider, and proved to be first-
rate in his calling, being the best horseman I met with
in South Africa. He also, like Klcinboy, was liable to
fits of sulkiness, through which I eventually lost him ;
for on one occasion, finding it necessary to inflict on
him a summary chastisement, he deserted from my
service in consequence.*

* The baggage, provisions, and genei'al stores whicli I carried with
me were as t'oUows : Two sacks coutaiuijig 300 lbs. of coffee, four quar-
ter cliests of tea, 300 lbs. of sugar, JOO lbs. of rice, 180 lbs. of meal,
100 lbs. of flour, five lbs. of pepper, 100 lbs. of salt, an anker of vinegar,
several large jars of pickles, half a dozen hams and cheeses, two cases of
gin, one anker of brandy, one half aum of Cape brandy, iron bakiug-pots
w^ilh long legs, stewing and frying pans, sauce-pans and gridirons, tin
water-buckets of vai'ious sizes, two large " fagie" or water-casks, an ac
companiment which no Cape wagon is ever without, two large flasks of
tar to be subsequently mixed with hard fat for greasing the wheels whea
required, six dozen pocket knives, 24 boxes of snuff", 50 lbs. of tobacco,
300 lbs. of white, coral, red, and bright blue beads of various sizes ;
three dozen tinder-boxes ; one cwt. of brass and copper wire, which the
Bechuana tribes, especially those dwelling to the east, readily barter and
convert into ornaments for their legs and arms ; two dozen sickles, two
spades, two shovels, one pickaxe, five superior An)erican axes, two au-
gers, one stock and thirty-six bits, hatchets, planes, drawing knives, sev-
eral coarse chisels for wagon-work, a vice, blacksmith and car[)enter'a
hammers, and a variety of other tools appertaining to both these profes-
sions. A gross of awls, a gross of sail-needles, 50 hanks of sail-twine, two
bolts of sail-canvas, several rolls of stout woolen cloths, two dozen gown-
pieces, six dozen IVIalay handkerchiefs; thread, needles, and buttons;
ready-made jackets and trowsers for my people, several dozen coarse
shirts, Scotch bonnets, and cocker-nonnys (as for shoes, colonial servants
are supposed to make them for themselves) ; a few medicines, arsenical
soap, English and coarse Boer's soap. Also, one large bell-tent, one mat-
ti'ess and bedding, one camp-tiible and chair, and my canteen, which
most fortunately I had resolved to retain when disposing of my other
military equipments : I found it a most serviceable and convenient ap-
pendage during my five years' wanderings in Southern Africa. My sad-
dlery consisted of two English hunting-saddles, two common saddles for
servants, and one pack-saddle to convey venison to camp. My ordnance
was as folio W3 : three double-barreled rifles by Poi-dey. William Moure.

80 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

While I was laying in these stores, I once or twice
amused myself by riding in quest of rheebok in the
rugged and precipitous high grounds lying immediately
to the south of Grahamstown. On one of these occa-
sions I was accompanied by my cousin, Colonel Camp-
bell of the 91st (one of the bravest and most distin-
guished officers in the late Kaffir war, and, withal, about
the best rifle-shot and keenest sportsman then in the
colony), a brother of Captain Campbell of Skipness,
the author of the "Old Forest-Ranger," a work highly
approved among Indian ^imrods. The rheebok is a
species of antelope generally found in all mountain dis-
tricts throughout Southern Africa, from Table Mount-
ain to the latitude of Kuruman or New Litakoo. Of
the rheebok there are two varieties : the rhooye-rhee-

and Dickson of Edinburgh — the latter a two-grooved, the most perfect
and useful rifle I ever had the pleasure of using ; one heavy single-baiTel-
ed German rifle, carrying twelve to the pound. This last was an old
companion, which had been presented to me, when a boy, by my dear,
and much-lamented friend and brother-sportsman, the late James Duff,
of Innes House. With this rifle, about ten years before, I had brought
down my first stag on the Paps of Jura, and subsequently bowled over
many a princely master-stag and graceful roebuck in his summer-coat,
throughout the glens and forests of my native land. The Purdey was
also a tried friend, both it and the heavy German having been with me
in Beveral campaigns on the plains and in the jungles of Hisdostan. I
had also three stout double-barreled guns for rough work when hard
riding and quick loading is required. Several lead-ladles of Vcirious
sizes, a whole host of bullet-molds, loading-rods, shot-belts, powder-
flasks, and shooting-belts ; three cwt. of lead, 50 lbs. of pewter for hard-
ening the balls to be iised in destroying the larger game ; 10, 100 prepar-
ed leaden bullets, bags of shot of all sizes, 100 lbs. of fine sporting gun-
powder, 300 lbs. of coarse gunpowder, about 50,000 best percussion
caps, 2000 gun-flints, greased patches and cloth to be converted into ti^
same. I carried also several spai-e yokes, yoke-skeys, whip-sticks,
rheims, and straps, two sets of spare linch-pins, all of which last articles
belong to the wagon. With the above, and £200 in cash which I car-
ried with me, I considered myself prejiared to midertake a journey of
at least twelve months among Boers or Bechuanas, independent of
either.

.^HEEBOK SOUTH AFRICAN FLORA. 31

bok, or red rheebuck ; and the vaal-rheebok, or gray
rheebuck. The range of the vaal-rheebok, to the north-
ward, ceases in the latitude of the Long Mountains ly-
ing to tlie south of Kuruman ; the other variety is met
with as far north as the mountains in the territory of
Sichely, chief of the Baquaines, about fifty miles to the
north of the Kurrichane range. Both of these ante-
lopes frequent high and rocky mountains. The man-
ner of hunting them is alike ; and, when properly pur-
sued, I think more nearly resembles Scotch Highland
deer-stalking than the pursuit of any other antelope.*

* Throughout the orassy mouiitahis which the hunter must traverse
in following this antelope, his eye is often gladdened by romantic dells
and sparkling rivulets, whose exhilarating freshness strongly and pleas-
ingly contrasts with the barren, rocky mountain heights and shoulders
immediately contiguous. The green banks and little hollows along the
margins of these streamlets are adorned with innumerable species of
brilliant jilants and flowering shrubs in wild profusion. Among these,
to my eye, the most dazzling in their beauty were perhaps those love-
ly heaths for which the Cape is so justly renowned. These exquisite
'plants, singly or in groups, here adorn the wilderness, with a freedom
and luxm-iance which, could the English gardener or amateur florist
behold, he might well feel disheartened, so infinitely does Nature in
this favored clime surpass in wild exuberance the nurslings of his arti-
ficial care. I remember being particularly struck with two pre-emi-
nently brilliant varieties, the one bearing a rose-colored, the other a
blood-red bell; and though I regret to say that I am but a poor bota-
nist, even in the heat of the chace I paused, spell-bound, to contem-
plate with admiration their fascinating beauty. Others with their
downy stems and waxen flowers of eveiy gaudy hue, green, lilac, and
various shades of pink, red, and crimson ; some of them with brown
lips to the bell, flourished in the richer hollows of their native glen, or
bloomed wth equal loveliness along the arid cliSs and fissures of the
overhanging rocks. Almost equaling the heaths in beauty, and sur-
passing them in the additional attraction of their scented leaves, a whole
liost of geraniums fill the balwy breeze with their delicious perfume.
These are too well known to admit of any novelty in description ; but
I may mention, en. passant, that they attain a far larger growth in their
native soil than I have been in the habit of seeing in our green-housee.
Small groups of the lofty, fair, conscious-looking iris rear their graceful
heads along the edges of the streams. Their fairy, forms reflected in

32 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

CHAPTER 11.

Mysteries of Inspauuiug — Cape Wagou and its Furniture — Departure
from Grahamstijwu — My liead Servant leaves me — Impassable State
of the Roads — iNIy Wagon in a Fix — Change of Eoute — Singular In-
stinct of the Honey-bird.

On the 23d of October, 1843, having completed my
final arrangements, and collected and settled all out-

the waters, " they seem to stand like guardian Naiads of the sti-and."
Another tribe of plants, which particularly delighted me from old as-
sociations, though not so striking as many of its neighbors for perinme
and brilliancy, was composed of several varieties of the light, aiiy fern,
or bracken, which, whether gracefully overshadowing the mossy stones,
eternally moistened by the bubbling spray of the stream, which they
kissed as it danced along, or vailing the gray lichen-clad masses of rock
in the hollows higher up, strongly reminded me of those so conspicuous-
ly adorning the wild glens in the mountains of my native land. Besides
these, a thousand other gay flowers deck the hills and plains wherever
the eye can fall. Endless varieties of the ixia, the haemanthus, the
amaryllis, the marigold, and a number of everlasting flowers, are scat-
tered ai'ound with a lavish hand ; also the splendid protea, whose
sweets never fail to attract swarms of the insect tribes, on which sev-
eral bright kinds of fly-catchers, their plumage glancing in the noonday
sun, are constantly preying. Further down tliese water-courses, in the
dense, shady ravines, the jungle is ornamented with long, tangled fes-
toons of different creepers, among which the wild jessamine ranks fore-
most, hanging in fragrant garlands amid the shaggy lichens, and bunch-
es of bright orange-colored mistletoe, for which the forests of Africa, in
the vicinity of her sea-coasts, are so remarkable. While touching on
the floral beauties of the hills more immediately adjoining the sea-
coast, I may remark that here are the great nurseries for heaths and
geraniums. As the traveler advances up the country, these gradually
disappear, and, together with the animal kingdom, the vegetable world
assumes entirely new features; the colonial forest-trees and bushes,
lierbs and plants, being succeeded by a vast and endless world of love-
liness; unseen, unknown, untrodden, save by those varied multitudes
of stupendous, curious, and beautiful quadrupeds, whose forefathers
have roamed its mighty solitudes from primeval ages, and with whom
I afterward became so intimately acquainted.

CATTLE IMPOUNDED. 33

lying debts, the weather, %Yhich had been wet and
stormy for many days past, assuming a more settled
appearance, I resolved to "inspan" and "trek," which
the reader will bear in mind mean to yoke and march.
I accordingly communicated my intentions to my fol-
lowers, and dispatched my leader Carollus to the neigh-
boring mountains, where my cattle were supposed to
be pasturing, to bring them up. He expended the great-
er part of the day in searching for them in vain about
their wonted feeding-ground : at length, late in the aft-
ernoon, lie chanced to meet a comrade, who informed
him that the oxen he was seeking were safely lodged in
the "skit-kraal" or pound, Colonel Somerset of "Ours*'
having detected them in the act of luxuriating in a field
of green forage. This pleasing intelligence demanded
my immediate attendance at the skit-kraal, where, by
a disimbursement of 95., 1 obtained their release.

Having secured my oxen, my next business was to
find my servants, who were all missing. Long, as I
expected, was found gallantly assisting the dark-eyed
heroine of the mangle, and Kleinboy and Cobus were
discovered in a state of brutal intoxication, stretched
on the greensward in front of one of the canteens, along
with sundry other wagon-drivers and Hottentot Venus-
es, all in the same glorious condition, having expended
on liquor the pay which they had extracted from me in
advance on the plea of providing themselves with nec-
essaries. Drunk as they were, Carollus, who was so-
ber, managed to allure them to the wagons, and. Long
assisting, the inspanning commenced. As no man whc
has not visited the Cape can form any idea of the man
ner in which this daily operation is performed, it wi!I
here le necessary to explain it, and to say a few more
words concerning the structure of a wagon

B2

84 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

The Cape wagon is a large and powerful, yet loosely-
constructed vehicle, running on four wheels. Its ex-
treme length is about eighteen feet, its breadth varying
from three and a half to four feet ; the depth of the
sides is about two feet six inches in front, but higher
toward the. back of the wagon. All along the sides
two rows of iron staples are riveted, in which are fas-
tened the boughs forming the tent, which arches over
the wagon to a height of five feet, with an awning of
Caff're mat, and a strong canvas sail over all, with
" fore-clap" and " after-clap," which is the colonial
name for two broad canvas curtains, that form part and
parcel of the sail, and hang in the front and rear of the
wagon, reaching to within a few inches of the ground.
In the front is placed a large chest occupying the ex-
treme breadth of the wagon, on which the driver and
two passengers of ordinary dimensions can sit abreast.
This is called the fore-chest, and is secured from sliding
forward by two buffalo rheiras, or strips of dressed hide,
placed across the front of it, and secured to the sides.
A similar chest is fastened in like manner to the rear
of the wagon, which is called the after-chest. Along
the sides of the wagon and outside of it are two longer
and narrower chests called side-chests. These are sup-
ported by two horizontal bars of hard w^ood riveted to
the bottom of the wagon. The side-chests are very
convenient for holding tools, and. all manner of odds and
ends too numerous to mention. The fore and after
chests are likewise extremely useful for containing
clothing, ammunition, and a thousand small articles in
daily use. Along the sides of the tent are suspended
rows of square-cut canvas bags, called side-poekcts, in
which the traveler keeps his hair-brushes and combs,
razors, knives, tooth-brushes, soap, towels, or any thing

THE CAPE WAGON. 3^

else which he may wish to have at hand. 1 used to
devote one to contain my luncheon, which often con-
sisted of a slice of elephant's trunk.

The traveler sleeps upon a sort of cot, termed a " car-
dell." This cardell is a light, strong, oblong frame,
about eight feet in length, and occupying the breadth
of the wagon. It is bored all round with small holes,
through which strips of hide are interlaced, forming a
sort of net-work on which the mattress rests. This cot
is slung across the wagon, and is attached with thongs
to the bows of the tent, its elevation being regulated
by the cargo, which is carefully stowed away beneath
it in the body of the wagon. Suspended underneath
the hind part of the vehicle is a strong wooden framo«
work called the trap, on which the pots and gridirons
are lashed during a march. The wagon is steered by
a pole, called the dissel-boom, to the end of which is
fastened the trek-tow, a stout rope formed of raw buf-
falo-hide. It is pulled by a span, or team, consisting
of twelve oxen, which draw the wagon by yokes fas-
tened along the trek-tow at regular intervals by means
of strips of raw hide. Passing through each end of the
yoke, at distances of eighteen inches from one another,
are two parallel bars of tough wood about eighteen inch-
es in length ; these are called yoke-skeys. In inspan-
ning^ the yoke is placed on the back of the neck of the
ox, with one of these skeys on either side, and toward
the ends are notches in which is fixed the strap, made
of twisted hide ; this, passing under the neck of the ani-
mal, secures him in the yoke.

Besides these straps, each pair of oxen is strongly
coupled by the buffalo rheims, which are used in catch-
ing and placing them in their proper order preparatory
to inspanning them : a rheim is a long strip ol prepared

36 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

hide with a noose at the end : it is made either of ox or
buffalo hide, and is about eight feet long. A wagon is
also provided with a tar-bucket, two powerful iron chains
which are called the rheim-chains, and a large iron drag
called the rheim-schoen ; also the invariable whip and
jambok ; the former consisting of a bamboo pole upward
of twenty feet in length, with a thong of about twenty-
five feet, to the end of which is sewn with "rheim-pys,"
or strips of dressed steinbok-skin, the "after-slock," and
to this again is fastened the " fore-slock," corresponding
with the little whip-cord lash of the English coachman.
The " fore-slock," about which the wagon-drivers are
very particular, is about a yard in length, and is formed
of a strip of the supple skin of some particular variety
of antelope prepared in a peculiar manner. The skins
of only a few species of antelopes are possessed of suf-
ficient tougliness for this purpose. Those most highly
prized among the colonists are the skins of the harte-
beest, koodoo, blesbok, and bushbuck ; when none of
these are to be obtained, they use the skin of a he-
goat, which is very inferior. The colonial wagon-
driver wields this immense whip with great dexterity
and grace. As he cracks it he produces a report nearly
equal to that of a gun, and by this means he signals to
his leader, who is perhaps herding the oxen at the dis-
tance of a mile, to bring them up when it is time to
inspan.

The "jambok" is another instrument of persuasion,
indispensable in the outfit of every Cape wagon. It is
made of the thick tough hide either of the white rhinoc-
eros or hippopotamus. Its length is from six to seven
feet ; its thickness at the handle is about an inch and a
half, and it tapers gradually to the point. These
" iamboks" are exceedingly tough and pliant, and ar^

INSPAKNING. 37

capable of inflicting most tremendous chastisement
upon the. thick hides of sulky and refractory oxen.
Those manufactured from the skin of the hippopotamus
are very much superior to those of the rhinoceros, being
naturally of a much tougher quality. If properly pre-
pared, one of these will last for many years. A smaller
description of "jambok" is manufactured for the benefit
of horses, and may be seen in the hands of every horse-
man in the colony.

When the leader brings up the oxen to the wagon to
be inspanned, the wagon-driver, if possible, sends an-
other Hottentot to his assistance, especially if any of
the oxen in the span happen to be young or refractory.
These, armed with a huge "jambok" in one hand, and
a handful of stones in the other, one on either flank,
with shouts, yells, and imprecations, urge forward the
unwilling team toward the yokes, where the driver is
standing with the twelve long buffalo rheims hanging
on his left arm, pouring forth a volley of soothing
terms, such as, "Ah ! now, Scotland ! Wo ha, Blau-
berg I you skellum, keer dar Carollus for Blauberg, ye
stand somar da, ich wichna wha yo hadachta ist."
(Turn there for Blauberg ; you stand there in an ab-
sent state, I do not know where your ideas are.)
" Holland, yon ould INIyfooty ! (" Myfooty" is a com-
mon Hottentot term, which I would defy even them-
selves to construe. The Dutch word " somar," men-
tioned above, is also a word to which I think I could
challenge the most learned schoolmaster in the colony
to attach any definite meaning. It is used both by
Boers and Hottentots in almost every sentence; it is
an answer to every question ; and- its meanings are
endless.) " Slangfelt, you neuxel I" (Snak</icld, you
humbug !) " Wo ha, now, Creishmann ! (Crocked

38

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ma-n.) "Orlam, you verdomde Kind, vacht un bidgte,
icli soil you krae." " Civilized ! you d — d child; wait
a bit, I'll serve you out.) " Vitfoot, you duivel I slahm
dar fur Vitfoot, slahm ihm, dat he barst !" (Whitefoot,
you devil ! flog there Whitefoot, flog him till he bursts.)
" Englandt, you ould ghroote-pench I Ah now ! Wo
ha ! Ye dat so lowe ist in die shwor plach, und dharum
so vees at inspanningi Vacht un bidgte, ich soil a
plach for you aitsuch. Ye iob da for nett so as ye will,
mar ich soil you arter bring, whar ich kann you mach
hke baikam." (England, you old big paunch! Ah
now ! Wo ha ! You who are so lazy in the heavy
place, and nevertheless so vicious at inspanning. Wait
a little. I shall seek ovit a place for you ! You tramp
there in front, exactly as you please ; but I will yoke
you further back, where I can reach you with facility.)
This is said in allusion to "England's" having lately
been in the habit of being yoked in the front of the
team ; and if it is very long, the driver can not reach
the leading oxen with his whip without descending
from the box, and, therefore, when a fore-ox becomes
lazy, he is yoked further back in the team, that he may
have the full benefit of the persuasive " fore-slock."

While the driver's tongue is pouring (orth this flow
of Hottentot eloquence with amazing volubility, his
hands and feet are employed with equal activity ; the
former, in throwing the open noose of the rheim, lasso-
like, over the horns of each ox, and drawing it tight,
round them as he catches him ; the latter in kicking
the eyes and noses of those oxen which the jamboks
and shouts of the leaders behind have driven too far in
upon him. At this moment " Blauberg," who is an old
offender, and who acquired in early youth the practice
which he has never relinquished of bolting from the

A REFRACTORY OX. 39

team at the moment of inspanning, being this day un-
Dsually lively, not having had any severe work for some
weeks, suddenly springs round, notwithstanding Klein-
boy, well aware of his propensities, has got his particu-
lar rheim firmdy twisted round his hand ; and havnig
once got his tail where his head ought to have been,
and thus deprived Kleinboy of all purchase over him,
he bounds madly forward, heedless of a large sharp
stone with which one of the leaders salutes him in the
eye. By his forward career, Carollus is instantly dashed
to the ground ; and Kleinboy, who has pertinaciously
grasped the rheim in the vain hope of retrieving the
matter, is dragged several yards along the ground- and
eventually relinquishes the rheim, at the same time
losing a good deal of the outer bark of his unfortunate
hand. Away goes Blauberg in his headlong course,
tearing frantically over hill and dale, his rheim flying
from his horns like a streamer in the wind. His course
lies right across the middle of the Cape-corps barracks,
where about forty or fifty riflemen who are lounging
about, parade being over, rush to intercept his course,
preceded by a pack of mongrel curs of every shape and
size, but in vain. Blauberg, heedless of a shower of
sticks and stones hurled at his devoted head, charges
through the midst of them, nor is he recovered for the
space of about two hours.

The rest of the team, seeing the driver sprawling on
the ground, as a matter of course follow Blauberg's ex-
ample : instantly wheeling to the right and left about,
away they scamper, each selecting a course for himself,
some with and others without the appendage of the
streamers. The Hottentots, well aware that it w'ill
be useless to follow Blauberg in the usual way, as he
would probably lead them a chase of four or five miles,

40 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

now adopt the most approved method usually practiced
in such cases. They accordingly drive out a small
troop of tamer oxen, with which they proceed in quest
of the truant. This troop they cunningly induce Mr.
Blauberg to join, and eventually return with him to
the wagon, the driver, with pouting lips and the sweat
running down his brow, pouring forth a torrent of threat-
ened vengeance against the offending Blauberg. The
inspanning is then once more commenced as before ;
and Blauberg, being this time cautiously placed in a
central position, well wedged up by the other oxen,
whereby he is prevented from turning about, is lassoed
with the strongest rheim, and firmly secured to the
steady old ox who has purposely been driven up beside
him. The twelve oxen are soon all secureljr yoked in
their proper places; the leader has made up his " fore-
tow," which is a long spare rheim attached round the
horns of each of the fore or front oxen, by which he leads
the team, and inspanning is reported to be accomplished.
I omitted to mention that the two fore-oxen, and the
two after-oxen, which are yoked one on either sid^. of
the " dissel-boom" or pole, are always supposed to be
the steadiest, most intelligent, and tractable in the
team. The two fore-oxen in particular, to be right
good ones, require a combination of excellences, as it
is indispensable for the safety of the wagon that they
thoroughly understand their duty. They are expect-
ed, unguided by reins, to hold the rarely-trodden roads
which occur throughout the remoter parts of the colony
either by day or night; and so well trained are these
sagacious animals, that it is not uncommon to meet
with a pair of fore-oxen which will, of their own accord,
hold the " spoor" or trade of a single wagon wliiph has
perhaps crossed a plain six months previously.

THE JOURNEY BEGUN. 41

In dangerous ground, however — where the narrow
road winds through stones and rocks, or along the brink
of a precipice ; or where the road is much intersected
by water-courses, and bordered by the eternal hillocks
raised by the white ants, which are of the consistence
of a brick, being formed, during damp weather, of clay,
which the sun afterward hardens; or where the "aard-
varcke," or ant-bear, with his powerful claws, has
undermined the road with enormous holes — the fore-
oxen, however trustworthy, should never be left to their
own devices, but the leader should precede them, lead-
ing by the tow. This safe and highly necessary pre-
caution is, however, rarely practiced by the ruffianly
Hottentots if the " baas" or master is not present, these
worthies preferring to sit still and smoke their pipes or
play their violins during the march to performing their
duty, thus frequently exposing their master's property
to imminent peril. It is thus that more than half the
capsizes, broken axle-trees, broken dissel-booms, and
smashed cap-tents, daily occur throughout the colony.
All being now in readiness, and some pots and spades,
which the Hottentots, as a matter of course, had omit-
ted to stow away in their proper places, being securely
lashed on the trap and to the sides of the wagon, the
illustrious Kleinboy brandishes his huge whip, and,
cracking it with a report which loudly reverberates
throughout the walls and houses of the Cape-corps bar-
racks, shouts out, with stentorian lungs, " Trek, trek,
you duivels ! 'Rhure y'lla dar vor, you skellums ! Ane
spoor trap, you neuxels ! Tabelberg, you ould kring !
Trek, you lowe paar marys. Schneeberg, you liiwo
Satan ! Blauberg, you duivel's kind I" (Draw, draw,
you devils ! Move yourselves forward there, you skel-
lums I Tramp all in the same track, you humbugs'

42 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Table Mountain, you old ring ! Draw, you lazy troop
of mares ! Snow Mountain, you lazy Satan ! Blue
Mountain, you child of the devil !) At the same mo-
ment he catches the refractory Blauberg the most ter-
rific wipe round the ribs with his fore-slock, accom-
panied by a sharp report like the discharge of a pistol,
upon which a cloud of blue hair is seen to fly from the
ox, and a long red streak, down which the blood copi-
ously flows, denotes the power of the weapon the driv-
er so mercilessly wields over the backs of his horny
team. At last the huge and heavily-laden wagon is
in motion, and rolls lightly along after the powerful
oxen, which on level ground seem scarcely to feel the
yokes which lie across their necks.

Requiring to pick up several large parcels at the
stores of some of the merchants in the town, we trek-
ked down the main street of Grahamstown, and in
passing the shops. of the butchers and bakers, laid in
a large supply of bread and fresh meat for immediate
use. Before we had proceeded far, some sharp-sighted
Hottentots came running after us, calling out that a
foHntain of tiger's milk had started in the stern of the
wagon ; and on halting, we discovered that several loose
cases of gin which I had purchased for immediate use,
and which had not been properly stowed, had sprung
aleak. The Hottentots seemed to regret amazingly
the loss of so much good liquor, and endeavored with
their ha"nds to catch it as it fell. Owing to the various
delays which had occurred during the day, I did not get
more than half a mile clear of Grahamstown when the
sun went down ; and there being then no moon, I deem-
ed it expedient to halt for the night. We accordingly
outspanned; and the Hottentots, having secured the
oxen to the yokes, and picketed my two horses on the

FIRST day's march. 43

wheels, requested my permission to return to the town
to take another farewell of their wives and sweet-hearts.
This I did not deem altogether prudent; but knowing
well that if T withheld my consent they would go with-
out it, I considered it best to comply with a good grace ;
and granting a general leave of absence, took on my-
self the charge of the castle which was destined to be
my home during the next five years.

The Hottentots, strange to say, according to their
promise, returned to the wagon during the night, and
next morning, at earliest dawn of day, I roused them,
and we inspanned. When this was accomplished, my
head servant Long not appearing, we marched with-
out him ; but we had only proceeded about three miles
when he managed to overtake us, the road being hilly
and very soft, owing to the recent rains. On coming
up and recovering his breath, he expressed himself
very much disgusted at my starting without him, when
I took the liberty of explaining that I expected my
servants to wait for me, and not that I should tarry for
them. Our progress was considerably impeded by the
bad state of the roads, and at ten A.M. we halted for
breakfast beside a pool of rain-water, having perform-
ed a march of about nine miles. Here, having out-
spanned our oxen, we set about preparing our gipsy
breakfast : one collected sticks for the fires, another
filled the kettles at the adjoining " vley," while Long
and I were busied in spreading the table and dusting
the beef-steaks with salt and pepper.

Having permitted the oxen to graze for a few hours,
we again inspanned, holding the high road for Somer-
set ; and about sundown we halted for the night on the
farm o' a Mr. Fichett, a great sheep-farmer, who re-
ce'' ^it me hospitably, and invited me to dine with him.

44 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

Here I met Captain Codrington, who had lately sold
out of the 7th Dragoons. Our march this day lay
through a succession of low, undulating hills, richly
clothed with a variety of grasses, herbs, and flowers, with
here and there large patches of dwarfish evergreens. I
had directed my Hottentots to kraal the oxen that night,
with the intention of making an early start on the fol-
lowing morning, but the herd managed to lose them in
tliG thick underwood. They were, however, recovered
at an early hour on the following morning, and, having
breakfasted, I was about to proceed, when Long, with
a face worthy of his name, came up to me with a whole
tissue of dire complaints about his personal inconven-
iences, the most galling of which appeared to be his
having to sleep on the ground in the tent. On my
friend's advancing these objections, I saw very plainly
that he was not the man for my work, as the life before
us was by no means likely to be one of luxury ; so,
having made over to him his impedimenta, and paid
him his month's wages, I wished him a safe return to
Grahamstown.

It was a lovely day, with a bright blue sky over
head, covered with light, fleecy clouds, and the trees
and shrubs, freshened by the recent rains, emitted an
aromatic perfume. Having proceeded some miles, we
commenced ascending the Zuurberg range, where we
were met by two wagons from Somerset, laden with
oranges for the Grahamstown market, of which I pur-
chased several dozen, and found them excellent. The
drivers of these wagons informed me that the road in
advance was almost impassable, owing to the recent
heavy rains. Although their oxen were better than
mine, and their wagons lighter by some thoasaind
pounds, they had had great difliculty in coming on, and

STUCK IN THE MUD 45

they recommended me to retrace my steps, and, cross-
ing the country, try the other road by De Bruin's Poort.
Notwithstanding their remonstrances, I resolved to push
on and give it a trial.

About mid-day I outspanned for two hours, to let the
cattle graze ; after which, having proceeded a few miles,
we found the road so cut up that we were obhged to
abandon it, and trek along the rugged hill-side, holding
a course parallel to it. Marching in front, and sinlving
up to my ankles in mud at every step, I endeavored to
select the hardest ground, on which the wagon might
follow. The ground now every moment became worse
and worse ; the panting oxen, straining every nerve to
keep the wagon in motion, and halting every hundred
yards to take breath. At length the wheels suddenly
sank deep into the soil, and became immovably fixed,
upon which we made loose our shovels and pickax, and
worked hard for half an hour, clearing away the soil in
front of and around the wheels ; which being accom-
plished, we rigged out a fore-tow and extra yoke to in-
span my two spare oxen, and then set our whole four-
teen to draw, but they could not move the wagon an
inch. We then lightened it of a part of the cargo, and
after half an hour's further labor we had relieved it of
upward of three 'thousand pounds; but still the oxen,
notwithstanding the most unmerciful application of both
whip and jambok, failed to move it. The thought then
struck me of pulling it out backward ; we accordingly
cast loose the trek-tow, and, having hooked on the long
span or team to the after part of the wagon, we suc-
ceeded in extracting it from its deep bed. We next
proceeded with much care and trouble to stow away
the baggage which we had removed, and the oxen being
again placed in their position, we resumed our journey;

46 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

but, before nyc had gone three hundred yards, the wagon
again became ingulfed, sinking into the earth to such
a depth that I half expected it would disappear alto-
gether. The nave of the wheel was actually six or
eight inches below the surface. This put us at our
wits' ends, and I began to think that, if this was to be
our rate of traveling, my hair would be gray ere I
reached the land of elephants.

A few minutes after this had occurred, another wagon
meeting us from Somerset hove in sight, but shortly
stuck fast within a quarter of a mile of us. Its owner,
an T^nglishman, an Albany transport-rider or carrier,
of the name of Leonard, now came up and requested
me to lend him my oxen to assist him in his difficul-
ties, which I did, he promising, in return, to help me
out of mine ; but it was not until unloaded of the en-
tire cargo that they succeeded in extricating it ; after
which, with considerable trouble, they came up to us.
We now hookSd on to my wagon both spans, amount-
ing to twenty-six strong oxen, the drivers standing one
on either side, with their whips ready at the given sig-
nal to descend upon the devoted oxen. I myself, with
one of the Hottentots, armed with the jamboks, stood
by the after-oxen, upon whom, in a dilemma of this
sort, much depends. Every man and beast being at
their post, the usual cry of " Trek, trek !" resounded
on all sides, accompanied by a torrent of unearthly
yells and abusive epithets ; at the same time the whips
were plied with energetic dexterity, and came down
with startling reports on the backs of the oxen through-
out all parts of the team. The twenty-six oxen, thus
urged, at the same moment concentrated their ener-
gies, laying a mighty strain on the gear. Something
rmmt yield, and accordingly my powerful buffalo trek-

A BAD FIX. 47

tow snapped asunder within a few feet of the dissel-
boom. The trek-tow being strongly knotted together,
a second attempt was made, when it again snapped in
a fresh place. We then unhooked the long drag-chains
from beneath the wagon, wherewith having fortified the
trek-tow, we made a third trial. The cunning oxen,
having now twice exerted themselves in vain, and being
well aware that the wagon was fast, according to their
usual custom, could not be induced to make any further
effort, notwithstanding the wagon-drivers had inflicted
upon them about half an hour's terrific flogging, till the
sides of half of them were running down with gore. In
cases of this sort, the oxen, instead of taking properly
to their Avork, spring about in the yoke, and turn their
tails round where their heads should be, invariably
snapping the straps and yoke-skeys, and frequently
splitting the yokes. In the present instance my gear
did not escape ; for, after battling with the oxen till the
sun went down, and smashing the half of my rheiras,
straps, and skeys, and splitting one of my yokes, we
were obliged to drop it for the night. We cast loose
the oxen, and, driving them up the hill-side, granted
them their liberty until morning ; and leaving our bro-
ken gear, pickaxes, spades, and other utensils scattered
about the ground in grand confusion, tired and worn
out we kindled a fire, and set about cooking our dinner.
Leonard and his servants declared that they had not
tasted any thing but a little biscuit and coffee during
the last three days, the Dutchmen along their road
being very unfriendly and inhospitable to the English
transport-riders.

Next morning we awoke refreshed by sound slum-
bers ; and having dispatched all the Hottentots, except-
ing one man, in quest cf the oxen, Leonard and I wero

48 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

actively employed for two hours in digging out and ofF-
loading the wagon, after which Leonard and the Hot-
tentot set about preparing the breakfast, while I pro-
ceeded to darn my worsted stockings, having had the
good fortune to obtain some hanks of worsted from the
wife of a Scotch sergeant in Grahamstown, after vain-
y seeking that article in the shops of all the haber-
dashers in the town. While we were thus employed,
Captain Codrington and Mr. Fichett rode up to us, and
seemed very much amused at our situation. Having
drunk a cup of coftee with me, Fichett and Cot\rington
returned home, previously engaging me to dine with
them, as I had resolved to retrace my steps and try an-
other line of country. About 11 A.M. the Hottentots
returned with our oxen, when, with the united efforts
of the teams, we succeeded in extricating my now
lightened wagon. The two oxen I purchased from
Thompson, though well-favored, proving indolent in a
heavy pull, I exchanged them with Leonard for the
liberty to pick any two out of his span, giving him a
sovereign to boot. His team consisted of twelve tough
little red Zoolah oxen, from the district of Natal, which,
like the Albany cattle, are termed " Zuur-feldt." This
colonial phrase is applied to all oxen bred and reared
near the sea-coast, in districts where the majority of
the grass is sour. Those from about the frontiers of
the colony, or any where beyond the Orange River,
are termed " Sweet-feldt" oxen. The Zuur-feldt cat-
tle possess a superiority over the Sweet-feldt as trek-
oxen, inasmuch as they thrive on any pasture, whereas
the latter die if detained more than a few days in Zuur-
feldt districts. Leonard's account of the road before
me was so bad, his wagon having been upset four times
on the preceding day, that I resolved to put about, and

THE HONEY-BIRD. 49

adopt the route through De Bruin's Poort, which had
been recommended to me by the drivers of the Somer-
set orange-wagons. By this route I should avoid Som-
erset, and pass through the village of Cradock. My
plans at this time were, in the first instance, to proceed
direct to the Thebus Flats, where black wildebeest and
springbok were reported to abound ; and thence to
march upon Colesberg, a village on the frontiers, where
I expected to meet my cousin. Colonel Campbell, of the
91st, by whose advice, in a great measure, I intended
to be guided in my future movements.

We now reloaded my wagon, made all fast, and hav-
ing put every thing in order, Leonard and I journeyed
together to Fichett's farm, where I once more took up
my quarters for the night. While actively busied with
my oxen, I saw to-day, for the first time, the honey-
bird. This extraordinary little bird, which is about the
size of a chaffinch, and of a light gray color, will inva-
riably lead a person following it to a wild-bees' nest.
Chattering and twittering in a state of great excite-
ment, it perches on a branch beside the traveler, en-
deavoring by various wiles to attract his attention; and
having succeeded in doing so, it flies lightly forward in
a wavy course in the direction of the bees' nest, alight-
ing every now and then, and looking back to ascertain
if the traveler is following it, all the time keeping up
an incessant twitter. When at length it arrives at the
hollow tree or deserted white-ants' hill which contains
the honey, it for a moment hovers over the nest, point-
ing to it with its bill, and then takes up its position on
a neighboring branch, anxiously awaiting its share of
the spoil. When the honey is taken, which is accom-
plished by first stupefying the bees by burning grass at
the entrance of their domicile, the honey-bird will often

Vol. L— C

50 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

lead to a second and even to a third nest. The per-
son thus following it ought to whistle. The savages
in the interior, while in pursuit, have several charmed
sentences which they use on the occasion. The wild
bee of Southern Africa exactly corresponds with the
domestic garden bee of England. They are very gen-
erally diffused throughout every part of Africa, bees-
wax forming a considerable part of the cargoes of ships
trading to the Gold and Ivory Coasts, and the deadly
district of Sierra Leone, on the western shores of Africa.
Interesting as the honey-bird is, and though sw^eet
be the stores to which it leads, I have often had cause
to wish it far enough, as, when following the warm
"spoor" or track of elephants, I have often seen the sav-
ages, at moments of the utmost importance, resign the
spoor of the beasts to attend to the summons of the
bird. Sometimes, however, they are " sold," it being a
well-known fact, both among the Hottentots and tribes
of the interior, that they often lead the unwary pursuer
to danger, sometimes guiding him to the mid-day re-
treat of a grizzly lion, or bringing him suddenly upon
the den of the crouching panther. I remember on one
occasion, about three years later, when weary with war-
ring against the mighty elephants and hippopotaraoi
which roam the vast forests and sport in the floods of
the fair Limpopo, having mounted a pair of unwonted
shot-barrels, I sought recreation in the humbler pur-
suit of quail-shooting. While thus employed, my at-
tention was suddenly invited by a garrulous honey-
bird, which pertinaciously adhered to me for a consid-
erable time, heedless of the reports made by my gun.
Having bagged as many quails and partridges as I
cared about shooting, I whistled lustily to the honey-
bird, and gave him chase: after following him to a dis«

JOURNEY RESUMED. 51

tance of upward of a mile, through the open glades ad-
joining the Limpopo, he led me to an unusually vast
crocodile, who was lying with his entire body conceal-
ed, nothing but his horrid head being visible above the
surface of the water, his eyes anxiously watching the
movements of eight or ten large bull buffaloes, which,
in seeking to quench their thirst in the waters of the
river, were crackling through the dry reeds as they
cautiously waded in the deep mud that a recent flood
had deposited along the edge. Fortunately for the buf-
faloes, the depth of the mud prevented their reaching
the stream, and thus the scaly monster of the river was
disappointed of his prey.

CHAPTER ni.

Fearful Descent of De Bruin's Poort — District lately deserted by Ele
phauts — Noble Forest-trees — The Great Fish River — Cunning Boera
— Burning Effects of the Sun — The Dutch Noe's Green Tea Oint-
ment— Skill of the Hottentots in '"Tapping the Admiral" — Beauti-
fully wooded Country — The Village of Cradock — South African Cli-
mate— Countless Herds of Springbok — Mynheer I'ocheter — The
Way to make a Friend on the Thebus Flats — Hendric Strydom —
Hunting for Springbok — Extraordinary Migrations of these Antelopes.

My " trek-tow" having been destroyed during the
recent struggles, I was glad to purchase a new one
from a man named Mackenzie in Fichett's employ,
which he supplied me, together with a strong thorn-
wood yoke, for £1. On leaving the farm we proceed-
ed in an easterly course, and struck into a track which
in a few hours led us into the high road leading from
Grahamstown to Cradock. Having followed this road

52 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

for several miles, we commenced descending through
the De Bruin's Poort, where the road winds, in a deep,
narrow, and rugged ravine, through dense ever-green
underwood, in its descent to the lower ground adjacent
to the banks of the Great Fish River. This poort, or
mountain pass, the terror of wagon-drivers, being at
all times perilous to wagons, was in the present in-
stance unusually dangerous and impassable, the recent
heavy rains having entirely washed away the loose soil
with which the colonists had been in the habit of cm-
banking the permanent shelves and ridges of adamant-
ine rock over which the wagons must necessarily pass,
while they had, at the same time, undermined an im-
mense number of large masses of rocks and stones which
had hitherto occupied positions on the banks above, and
which now lay scattered along the rocky way, present-
ing an apparently insurmountable barrier to our further
progress.

As we were the first who had traveled this road since
the late inundations, it had not undergone the slightest
repair, which, to have done properly, would have re-
quired the labor of a week. Having halted the wag-
on, and descended into the ravine for an inspection, ac-
companied by Kleinboy, I at once pronounced it, in its
present state, to be impassable. Kleinboy, however,
well aware that he would not be called upon to pay for
damages, seemed to entertain a different opinion, evi-
dently preferring to run all risks to encountering the
Herculean labors of rolling all these bowlders to one
side. Accordingly, having made up our minds to take
the pass, we reascended to the wagon, and having
rheimed or secured the two hind wheels by means of
the drag-chains, Kleinboy took his position on the box,
and the wagon commenced its perilous descent, I follow-

A PERILOUS DESCENT. 53

ing in the firm expectation every moment of beholding
its destruction. Jolting furiously along, it crashed and
jumped from rock to rock ; at one moment the star-
board hind wheel resting on a projecting ledge of rock
several feet in height, and the front wheel on the same
side buried in a deep hollow, and next moment the
larboard wheels suddenly elevated by a corresponding
mass of rock on the opposite side, placing the wagon in
such a position that it seemed as though another inch
must inevitably decide its fate. I held my breath,
doubting the possibility of its regaining the horizontal
position. Righting again, however, with fearful vio
lence, it was launched, tottering from side to side, down
the steep stony descent, and eventually, much to my
astonishment, the pass was won, and we entered upon
the more practicable road beneath.

I could not help fancying how an English-built ve-
hicle would have fared in a similar situation, and how
a Brighton coachman would have opened his eyes could
he have seen my Cape wagon in the act of descending
this fine specimen of a colonial wagon-road, which I
might aptly compare to the rugged mountain-bed of
some Highland river. Having continued our journey
till within an hour of sundown, we encamped for the
night. The country through which we had passed was
densely covered with one vast jungle of dwarfish ever-
green shrubs and bushes, among which the speck-boom
was predominant. This species of tree, which is one
of the most abundant throughout the forests and jun-
gles of Albany and Caff"raria, is utterly unserviceable
to man, as its pithy branches, even when dead, are un-
available for fuel. It is, however, interesting, as con-
stituting a favorite food of the elephants which, about
twenty-hve years ago, frequented the whole of this

54 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

country in large herds. The foot-paths formed through
successive ages by the feet of these mighty animals are
still discernible on the sides and in the necks of some
of the forest-clad hills, and the skulls and larger bonen
of many are at this moment bleaching in some of the
forest- kloofs or ravines adjacent to the sea in Lower
Albany.

From time immemorial, these interesting and stupen-
dous quadrupeds had maintained their ground through-
out these their paternal domains, although they were
constantly hunted, and numbers of them were slain, by
the neighboring active and athletic warriors of the Am-
aponda tribes, on account of their flesh, the ivory so
much prized among civilized nations being by them es-
teemed of no value, the only purpose to which they
adapt it being the manufacture of rings and ornaments
for their fingers and arms. These gallant fellows, arm-
ed only with their assagais or light javelins of their own
manufacture, were in the constant habit of attacking
the gigantic animals, and overpowering them with the
accumulated showers of their weapons. At length,
however, when the white lords of the creation pitched
their camps on the shores of Southern Africa, a more
determined and general warfare was waged against the
elephants on account of their ivory, with the more de-
structive engines of ball and powder. In a few years,
those who managed to escape from the hands of their
oppressors, after wandering from forest to forest, and
from one mountain range to another, and finding that
sanctuary there was none, turned their faces to the
northeast, and "trekked" or migrated from their an-
cestral jungles to lands unknown. A small remnant,
however, remained ; and these, along with a few buffa-
loeSj koodoos, and one solitary black rhinoceros, still

FOREST-TREES. 55

found shelter in the vast jungles of the Zuurberg and
Addo bush as late as the commencement of 1849.

When the colonists first settled in Albany, they ^Yere
in the habit of carrying on a very lucrative traffic with
the chiefs of the neighboring Amaponda tribes, from
whom they obtained large quantities of ivory in barter
for beads, brass wire, and other articles of little value.

Throughout the jungles of Albany and CafFraria, but
more particularly in the deep kloofs and valleys, many
varieties of noble forest-trees are found of considerable
size and great beauty, several of which are much prized
by the colonists on account of their excellence for wag-
on-work and house-building ; of these I may enumerate
the yellow-wood tree, the wild cedar, the stink-wood
tree, and the black and the white iron-wood tree. The
two latter are remarkable for toughness and durability,
and are much used in the axle-trees of wagons. The
primitive system of wooden axle-trees has of late years
been superseded in some districts by patent iron ones;
many, however, still use and prefer the old wooden
axle-trees, because wagons having those made of iron,
in steep descents, run too freely after the team, to the
injury of the two after-oxen ; and, further, because a
wooden axle, if broken, may be replaced in any remote
part of the country ; whereas a damaged iron axle-tree
can not be mended even by the skillful smiths through
out the towns and villages of the colony. The iron
axles are especially apt to be broken in cold frosty
mornings during the winter, when a wagon, immediate-
ly after being set in motion,- has to pass through rough
ground before the friction of the wheel has imparted to
it a certain degree of heat.

On the following day a march of four hours brought
us to the bank of the Great Fish River, bavins: crossed

56 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

an extensive open glade covered with several varieties
of low shrubs and grasses and rough heather. Here,
for the first time, I saw and shot the black koran, an
excellent game-bird, allied to the bustards, so abundant
throughout South Africa. Its weight corresponds with
that of our old cock grouse ; its legs and neck are long
like those of the ostrich ; its breast and back are gray,
and its wings black and white. They are every where
to be met Avith where the country is at all level and
open : when disturbed, they take wing and fly over the
plain in circles, much after the manner of the green
plover or peewit, uttering a harsh grating cry. The
best method of getting within range is to use a horse,
and ride round them in a circle, gradually contracting
it. To this open glade, whose name I have forgotten,
the Nimrods about Grahamstown often resort, and in-
dulge in the exciting sport of wild boar and porcupine
hunting. This " chasse" is conducted on bright moon-
light nights, with a gathering of rough strong dogs, the
hunters being armed with a bayonet or spear, with
which they dispatch the quarry when brought to bay.
I found the Great Fish River, as I had anticipated,
still flooded and impassable to wagons. It Avas, how-
ever, ebbing rapidly, and apparently would be fordable
on the morrow. During the previous heavy rains,
which were said not to have been equaled for twenty-
seven years, it had risen to an immense height, and
every where overflowed its banks. That part of the
bank which formed the descent and ascent of the for-
mer wagon-road was, as a matter of course, entirely
swept away, a steep wall on either side of the river re-
maining in its stead, flanked by a bank of deep and
slimy mud. An immense deal of manual labor would
consequently be necessary to form a road, by cutting

FISH RIVER DRIFT. 57

down these walls, and clearing a channel through the
mud, before a wagon could take the drift. Accordingly,
the work being -considerable, I thought the sooner we
set about it the better ; so, having cooked and partaken
of a hot tiffin, we cast loose the pickaxes, spades, and
shovels, stripped to our shirts, and, half wading, half
swimming, succeeded in crossing the river, where, hav-
ing labored hard till sundown, and constructed a famous
piece of road, we considered our task on that side as
completed. Early on the following morning we re-
sumed our labors on our side of the river, and about 10
A.M. our path was finished. A party of Boers now
hove in sight with three wagons, which they outspan-
ned on the opposite bank, and drove their oxen into the
neighboring hills to graze. Presently observing us pre-
paring to inspan, they beckoned to me to hold a confer-
ence with them across the stream, the object of which
was to endeavor to dissuade me from taking the drift
until their oxen should return, under pretense of assist-
ing us, but, in reality, fearing that we would stick fast,
and that they should be forced to assist us, since, in
the event of our was^on sticking before their oxen came
up, they would be unable to pass us until we were ex-
tricated. I saw the move with half an eye, and in-
stantly ordered my men to inspan with all possible dis-
patch ; when we got safely through the river and up
the opposite bank, which was much more than I had
anticipated.

It was a fearful pull for the poor oxen ; the wagon
stuck fast three times, and was within a hair's breadth
of being upset. The water just came up to the bottom
boards, but, fortunately, did not wet any part of the
cargo. The Boers seemed much surprised at the suc-
cess of our venture, as they always entertain thii idea

C 2

58 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

that an Englishman's oxen must be inferior to theirs,
Dut this idea is grossly erroneous, the reverse being in-
variably the case. A Boer will hardly ever flog his
oxen when they require it, which, though it may shock
the ear of my fair reader, my regard to truth compels
me to state is indispensable, oxen being of a strange,
stubborn disposition, perfectly different from horses.
This, at a future period, I had cause to ascertain prac-
tically, when, forsaken by my followers on the borders
of the Kalihari desert, I was necessitated daily to in-
span and drive my own oxen, which I did, with the as-
sistance of a small Bushman, for a distance of about a
thousand miles.

It is a common thing to see a Boer's oxen stick fast
on a very moderate ascent, with not above 1000 lbs.
or 2000 lbs. weight in the wagon, where an Albany
transport-rider would pass him with a load of 6000 lbs
behind his bullocks ; and it is by no means uncommon
to see these Albany men discharging a load of even
8000 lbs. weight at the stores of the Grahamstown
merchants, which they have transported with a team
of fourteen oxen through the hilly country between that
town and Algoa Bay. After crossing the river, the
road continued good for about three miles, but after
that we found it washed away in many places. Once
we stuck fast, and were obliged to dig the wagon out,
and broke our trek-tow three times in extracting it.
In other places we Vvere obliged to leave the usual road,
and cut a new way through the thorny trees with our
axes, the road being cut up with water-courses six and
eight feet deep. At mid-day we outspanned for two
hours, to rest the oxen, on the farm of a Mr. Corrie.
Here we met a " smouse," or trader, coming down the
country with a drove of about a hunJ^cd and fifty vcr^

FIRST SIGHT OF SPRINGBOKS. 59

large, well-conditioned oxen. He offered me a span at
£3 ahead; they were worth £12 each in England. I
felt the sun rather oppressive.

About two P.M. we inspanned, and, having ascend-
ed a long and very steep hill, we entered upon a new
line of country, of wide, undulating, open plains of rank,
waving grass, dotted over with the mud-built habita-
tions of white ants. We held on for three hours after
sundown, and halted for the night at an uninhabited
dilapidated mansion, in which we lighted a fire and
cooked our dinner. Having secured our oxen on the
yokes, instead of permitting them to graze during the
night, we were enabled to march next morning some
time before the break of day ; and as the rising sun
gradually unvailed the landscape, I had the pleasure
of beholding for the first time several small herds of
springboks scattered over the plain. This exquisiteh
graceful and truly interesting antelope is very general
ly diffused throughout Southern Africa, and is more nu-
merous there than any other variety ; it is very nearly
allied to the ariel gazelle of Northern Africa, and in its
nature and habits reminded me of the saisin of India.
A few herds of springboks are still to be met with on
the plains in the district of. Somerset, on which I had
now entered ; but as this is one of the nearest districts
to the abodes of men where this species remains, it is
of course much hunted, and is annually becoming scar-
cer. The gentlemen farmers of the surrounding dis-
tricts keep a good breed of greyhounds, with which they
have excellent sport in pursuing these antelopes. On be-
holding the springboks T instantly directed my two horses
to be saddled, and, desiring the Hottentots to proceed
to a farm in advance and there outspan. T rode forth
with Cobus, takin<r mv two-c^ruoved rifle to en leavor

60 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

to obtain a shot. I found them extremely wild, and,
after expending a considerable deal of ammunition, firing
at distances of from six to eight hundred yards, I re-
joined my wagons, which I found drawn up on a Dutch-
man's farm, and left the antelopes scathless.

Owing to exposure to the sun while working at the
Fish River drift on the preceding days, and also to hav-
ing discarded coat, waistcoat, and neckcloth since leav-
ing Grahamstown, my arms, neck, and shoulders were
much swollen, and severely burned "arid blistered, caus-
ing me much pain, and at night preventing me from
sleeping. The kind-hearted noe, or lady of the farm,
commiserating my condition, and wishing to alleviate
my pain, informed me that she had an excellent re-
ceipt for sunburn, which she had often successfully
administered to her husband and sons. One of the
chief ingredients of the promised balsam was green tea,
which was to be reduced to powder, of which she direct-
ed me to send her a little by one of my servants. I do
not know what the other components might have been,
but I well know that, on applying the ointment to the
raw and swollen parts, it stung mo as though it had
been a mixture of salt and vinegar, giving me intense
pain, and causing me to hop and dance about like one
demented, and wish the Boer noe and her ointment in
the realms of Pluto, to the infinite delight and merri-
ment of my sympathizing Hottentots.

A peculiar expression in the eyes of these gentlemen,
and their general demeanor, inclined me to think that
•their potations had consisted of some more generous
beverage than water during the morning's march ; and
on examining one of my liquor cases, I found that I
was minus a bottle and a half of gin since yesterday.*

• This is a common failing among tbis monkey-faced race, ninetecB

TAPPING THE ADMIRAL. 61

After breakfast we continued our march, when I was
again tempted to saddle up and give chase to a troop
of springboks, one of which I shot : we continued our
march until sundown, when we halted beside a pool of
rain water. Here we found some young Boers and
Hottentots, belonging to a neighboring farm, actively
employed in digging out a nest of wild bees ; several
of them had their eyes nearly closed from the stings
which they had received. The spoils of the " bike,"
however, repaid th*eir pains by twenty pounds of honey.
On approaching the nest, a large cluster of bees chose
my sunburned arm as a place of rendezvous, from which
I could not remove them until I had obtained a bunch
of burning grass.

in every twenty Hottentots being drunkards, and they have, moreover,
not the slightest scruple of conscience as to who is the lawful proprie-
tor of the liquor, so long as they can get access to it. No locks nor
bolts avail ; and thus on the Bay-road, the high road between Algoa
Bay and Grahamstown, a constant system of tapping the admiral is
maintained. In this pursuit, these worthies, from long practice, have
anived at considerable skill, and it is usually accomplished in the fol-
lowing manner: If the liquor is in a cask, having removed one of the
hoops, a gimlet is inserted, when a bucket or two of spirit having been
drawn off, the aperture is filled with a plug, and, the hoop being re-
placed, no outward mark is visible. The liquor thus stolen, if missed,
and inquiries issued, is very plausibly set down to the score of leakage.
A great deal of gin arrives in Grahamstown in square case-botlles, pack-
ed in slight red vyooden cases. To these the Hottentots devote marked
attention, owing to the greater facility of getting at them. Having
carefully removed the lid and drained several of the bottles, either by
drinking them or pouring their contents into the water-casks belong-
ing to the wagons, they eitlier replace the liquor with water and re-
pack the case again as they found it, or else they break the bottles
which they have drained and replace them in the case, at the eamo
time taking out a quantity of the chaff in which they have been pack-
ed. This is done to delude the merchant into the idea that the loss of
liquor occuiTed owing to breakage from original bad packing. Tlia
risk and damage entailed on the proprietors of wagons and ovs-ners of
merchandise from the drivers indulging in such a system, on tlie pr&
• carious roads of the colony, may bo imagined.

62

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Our march on the following day lay through a mount*
ainous country abounding with rich pasture, covered
in many places with picturesque thorny mimosa trees,
detached and in groups, imparting to the country the
appearance of an English park. In the forenoon we
halted for a couple of hours in a broad, well-wooded
hollow, where I found abundance of bustard. Guinea-
fowl, black koran, partridge, and quail. At sundown
we encamped at a place calbd Daka-Boer's Neck, on
high ground, where the road crosses a bold, precipitous
mountain range. The mountain road, along which we
trekked the following morning, was extremely steep
and rugged: on my right, high above me, I observed
a herd of upward of a hundred horses, consisting chiefly
of brood-mares and their foals, pasturing on the hill side.
Three more marches brought us to the village of Cra-
dock, which wo reached at dawn of day on Saturday
morning the 2d of October, having twice again had
occasion to cross the Groat Fish River.

The country through which we passed was bold,
mountainous, and barren, excepting along the banks of
the river, which were adorned with groves of mimosa_
willow, and white thorn, clad with a profusion of rich
yellow blossoms yielding a powerful and fragrant per-
fume. It was now the spring of the year, and, this
season having been peculiarly favored with rains, a ver-
nal freshness robed these sometimes arid regions, and I
consider that I first saw them under very favorable cir-
cumstances. On the northern bank, at one of the drifts
where we crossed the Fish River, I observed the dry
dung in an old sheep-kraal burning. It was smolder-
ing away after the manner of Scotch peat ; and on my
return from the interior about eighteen months after, on
my way to Grahamstown, the dunghill was still burn-

DESCRIPTION OP CRADOCK. 63

ing, and had been burning all the time, and nevertheless
only two thirds were consumed. The immense time
which these dunghills require to burn is very singular.
It is quite a common occurrence for one of them to
burn for three or four years; and I have been informed
by several respectable farmers of Lower Albany, on
whose veracity I could rely, that in that district one of
these " middens," as they are termed in Scotland, burn-
ed for seven years before it was consumed. The heavi-
est and most protracted rains seem to affect them but
little, rarely, if ever, extinguishing them.

Cradock is a pretty little village, situated on the
eastern bank of the Great Fish River-, by which it is
supplied with water and the gardens irrigated. It is
inhabited by Dutch and English, and a goodly sprink-
ling of Hottentots, Mozambiques, and Fingoes. The
principal street is wide, and adorned with shady trees
on every side, among which I observed lots of peach-
trees covered with green fruit. The houses are largo
and well built, generally of brick, some in the old Dutch
and some in the English style. Each house has got a
considerable garden attached to it: these are tastefully
laid out, and contain all the vegetables most used in
an English kitchen. Apples, pears, oranges, quinces,
nectarines, and grapes abound. The vision is bounded
on every side by barren, arid, rocky hills and mount-
ains. I marched right through the town, and out-
spanned about a quarter of a mile beyond it, and after
breakfast I re-entered the village on foot to purchase
necessaries for myself and servants. Numbers of Dutch
Boers, with their wives and families, were assembling
to hold their Nachmahl or sacrament.

About 11 A. INT. we inspanned, and continued oar
journey about five miles, crossing the G-roat Fi.-h River

64 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

twice, when I halted for some hours upon its bank on
account of my oxen, the grass in the vicinity of the
town having been very bare. This was the fifth and
last time that we crossed the Great Fish River. Here
about a dozen wagons passed us on their way to Cra-
dock, containing Dutch Boers with their fraus and
families. Several of these were horse-wagons, drawn
by eight and ten horses in each wagon, harnessed two
abreast, and drawing by straps across their breasts in-
stead of collars. These straps are generally manufac-
tured of the skin of the lion when it is to be obtained,
that being reckoned by the Boers to be tougher and
more enduring than any other. These long teams are
well managed and dexterously driven by the Boers, one
man holding the reins and another the whip. In the
afternoon I again inspanned, and continued my march
till sundown. The road since I left Cradock had im-
proved, and was now fine and level, leading through a
wide, open, undulating strath along the northeastern
bank of the Fish River. The surrounding country pre-
sented in every direction endless chains of barren, stony
mountains ; the bold range of the Rhinaster Bergs stand-
ing forth in grand relief to the westward ; not a tree
to be seen, except a few thorny mimosas in some of the
more favored hollows of the hills and along the banks of
the river ; the country covered with grass and heaths,
dwarfish shrubs, and small thorny bushes.

The sun during the day was powerful, but a cool
breeze prevailed from the south. Ever since I left
Grahamstown the weather had been very pleasant, and
seldom oppressively hot, saving in the low-lying hol-
lows where the breezes are not felt. South Africa,
though its climate is dry and sultry, is nevertheless
very salubrious, being surrounded on three sides by the

CLIMATE MYNHEER BESTA. 65

sea, off which a healthy breeze prevails throughout the
greater part of the year. At certain seasons, ho\yev-
er, northerly breezes prevail: these are termed by the
colonists " hot winds." On these occasions the wind
feels as though it were blowing off a furnace in a glass
foundery, being heated in its passage over the burning
sands of the Great Kalihari desert.

In Cradock I engaged another Hottentot, named
Jacob, in the capacity of after-rider. Having followed
the course of the Fish River for a distance of about
nine miles, our road mclined to the right in a more
northerly direction, and we here bade that stream a
final adieu. Two more marches through a succession
of wide, undulating, sterile plains, bounded on all sides
by bleak and barren mountains, brought us to the
borders of the immense flats surrounding the Thebus
Mountain.

Having followed along the eastern bank an insignifi-
cant little stream dignified by the appellation of the
Brak River, I arrived at the farm of Mynheer Besta,
a pleasant, hospitable Boer, and a field cornet of the dis-
trict, which means a sort of resident magistrate. Here
we halted to breakfast, and Besta, who is a keen sports-
man, entertained me w^ith various anecdotes and ad-
ventures which had occurred to him during the earlier
days of his sporting career in Albany, where he had
once resided. He informed me that the black wilde-
beest and springbok were extremely numerous on the
plains immediately beyond his farm, which made me
resolve to saddle up and go in quest of them as soon as
I had breakfasted. The flesh of these animals forms
one of the chief articles of food among the Boers and"
their servants who inhabit the districts in wliich they
are abundant; and the skulls and horns of hundreds

66

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

of black wildebeest and springbok were to be seen piled
in heaps and scattered about the out-houses of the
farm. Adjoining the house was a well-watered garden,
with very green trees and corn in it, which formed a
most pleasing contrast with the surrounding barren
country.

Having directed my men to proceed to the next farm
along the banks of the Brak River, I rode forth with
Cobus and held a northerly course across the flats. I
soon perceived herds of springbok in every direction,
which, on ray following at a hard gallop, continued to
join one another until the whole plain seemed alive with
them. Upon our crossing a sort of ridge on the plain,
I beheld the whole country, as far as my eye could
reach, actually white with springboks, with here and
there a herd of black gnoos or wildebeest, prancing and
capering in every direction, whirling and lashing their
white tails as they started off in long files on our ap-
proach. Having pursued them for many hours, and
fired about a dozen shots at these and the springboks
at distances of from four to six hundred yards, and
only wounded one, which I lost, I turned my horse's
head for the camp. The evening set in dark and low-
ering, with rattling thunder and vivid flashes of light-
ning on the surrounding hills. I accordingly rode hard
for my wagon, which I just reached in time to escape
a deluge of rain which lasted all night. The Brak
River came down a red foaming torrent, but fell very
rapidly in the morning. This river is called Brak from
the flavor of its waters, v/hich, excepting in the rainy
season, are barely palatable. ]My day's sport, although
unsuccessful, was most exciting. I did not feel much
mortified at ray want of success, for I was well aware
that recklessly jaging after the game in the manner in

HERDS OF SPRINGBOKS. 67

which I had been doing, although highly exhilarating,
was not the way to fill the bag. Delight at beholding
so much noble game in countless herds on their native
plains was uppermost in my mind, and I felt that at
last I had reached the borders of those glorious hunt-
ing-lands, the accounts of which had been my chief in-
ducements to visit this remote and desolate corner of
the globe; and I rejoiced that I had not allowed the
advice of my acquaintances to influence my move-
ments.

As I rode along in the intense and maddening excite-
ment of the chase, I felt a glad feeling of unrestrained
freedom, which was common to me during my career
in Africa, and which I had seldom so fully experienced ;
and notwithstanding the many thorns which surround-
ed my roses during the many days and nights of toil
and hardship which I afterward encountered, I shall
ever refer to those times as by far the brightest and
happiest of my life. On the following morning I rode
through the Bralc River to visit Mynheer Pocheter, with
the intention of buying some horses from him, but he
had none to dispose of I met the old fellow coming in
from the "feldt," with his long single-barreled roer and
enormous flint-lock, with the usual bullock's-horn pow-
3er-flask dangling at his side. He had gone out with
his Hottentot before the dawn of day, and taken up a
position in a little neck in an vmeven part of the plain,
through which the springbok's were in the habit of pass-
ing before sunrise. In places of this description the
Boers build little watch ing-placcs with flat stones, from
which they generally obtain a shot every morning and
evening, and at such distances as to insure success
To use their own words, " they secure a buck from these
places, skot for skot," meaning a buck for every shot.

68 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

On this occasion, however, our friend had been un-
fortunate, returning without venison, although I had
heard the loud booming of his " roer" a short time pre-
viously. The report made by these unwieldy guns of
the Boers, charged with a large handful of coarse gun-
powder, is to be heard at an amazing distance through
the calm atmosphere of these high table-lands; and
during my stay on the flats adjoining Thebus Mount-
ain, scarcely an hour elapsed at morning, noon, or eve,
but the distant booming of some Dutchman's gun sa-
luted the ear.

Mynheer Pocheter asked me in to take some break
fast with him, which I did, Cobus acting as interpret-
er, mine host not understanding a word of English, and
Lnot having at that time acquired the Dutch language,
with which I not long afterward became thoroughly
conversant. After breakfast I took leave of Mynheer
Pocheter, and having directed the wagon to strike out
of the direct road to Colesberg, and hold across the
country to the abode of a Boer named Hendric Stry-
dom, where the game was represented to me as being
extremely plentiful, I again rode forth, accompanied by
Cobus, to wage war with the springboks. We prick-
ed over the plain, holding an easterly course, and found,
as yesterday, the springboks in thousands, with here
and there a herd of black wildebeest. Finding that
by jaging on the open plain I could not get within four
or five hundred yards of them, I left my horses and after-
rider, and set off on foot to a low range of rocky hills,
where I performed two difficult stalks upon a spring-
bok and a wildebeest, both of which I wounded severe-
ly, but lost. When stalking in upon the springbok
I took off my shoes, and had very great difficulty in
finding them again. I experienced great distress from

HUNTING SPRINGBOKS. 69

thirst. The sun was very powerful, and, notwithstand-
ing the heavy rains of the preceding evening, a drop of
water was nowhere to be found.

In the afternoon I came to a pool of mud ; the little
water it contained was almost boiling; I was, however,
most thankful to find it, and tears of delight came into
my eyes on discovering it. How trifling was this to
the trials from thirst which I have often since under-
gone ! Shortly after this I fell in with my servant,
who, astonished at my long absence, had come in
search of me with the horses. I was right glad to fall
in with him, and, having got into the saddle, I rode
hard across the plain for my wagon. On my way thith-
er I took up a position behind a ridge, and directed Co-
bus to "jag" a herd of springbok toward me, which he
did most successfully, sending upward of a hundred of
them right in my teeth. I, however, was still unfor-
tunate, firing both barrels into the herd without doing
any apparent injury. On reaching my wagon, which
I found outspanned at the desolate abode of Mynheer
Hendric Strydom, I took a mighty draught of gin and
water, and then walked, followed by my interpreter
carrying a bottle of Hollands and glasses, to the door
of Strydom, to cultivate the acquaintance of himself
and frau, and wearing the garb af old Gaul, in which
I generally hunted during my first expedition, to the
intense surprise of the primitive Boers. Shaking Stry-
dom most cordially by the hand, I told him that I was
a " Berg Scot," or mountain Scotchman, and that it
was the custom in my country, when friends met, to
pledge one another in a bumper of spirits; at the same
time, suiting the action to the word, I filled him a brim-
ming bumper. This was my invariable practice on
first meetins: a Boer. I found it a never-failmor meth-

70 A.DVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

od of gaining his good will, and he always replied that
the Scotch were the best people in the world.-

It is a strange thing that Boers are rather partial to
Scotchmen, although they detest the sight of an En-
glishman. They have an idea that the Scotch, like
themselves, were a nation conquered by the English,
and that, consequently, we trek in the same yoke as
themselves ; and, further, a number of their ministers
are Scotchmen. Hendric Strydom was a tall, sun-
burned, wild-looking creature, with light sandy hair,
and a long, shaggy red beard. He was a keen hunter,
and himself and household subsisted, in a great meas-
ure, by the proceeds of his long single-barreled "roer."
His frau was rather a nice little woman, with a fresh
color, and fine dark eyes and eyebrows, and displayed
her good taste by taking a fancy to me ; but perhaps
the tea and coffee which she found I bestowed with a
liberal hand might account for her partiality. These
were Boers of the poorer order, and possessed but little
of this world's goods. Their abode was in keeping with
their means. It was a small mud cottage, with a roof
which afforded scanty protection from the heavy period-
ical rains. The fire burned on the hearthstone, and a
hole in the roof served at once for a window and chim-
ney. The rafters and bare mud walls were adorned
with a profusion of skins of wild animals, and endless
festoons of " biltongue" or sun-dried flesh of game.
Green fields or gardens there were none whatever ; the
wild Karroo plain stretched away from the house on all
sides ; and during the night the springboks and wilde-
beests pastured before the door.

The servants consisted of one old Bushman and his
wife, and the whole of their worldly possessions were
an old wagon, a span of oxen, a few milch cows, and a

HENDRIC STRYOOM. 71

small herd of goats and sheep. Strydom's revenue
seemed principally to be obtained by manufacturing
ashes, with which he was in the habit of loading up
his wagon and trekking many days' journey into other
districts, where he sold them to richer Boers. These
ashes are in great demand among all the Boers, as be-
ing an indispensable ingredient in the manufacture of
soap. Every Boer in South Africa makes his own
soap. There is a low, succulent, green bush from
which the ashes are obtained, which is only found in
certain districts, and in these desolate plains it was very
abundant.*

Strydom, having sympathized with me on my con-
tinued run of ill luck, remarked that it was quite a
common thing when "jaging" on the principle which I
had followed. He said that he was aware that in hunt-
ing on that system an immense amount of ammuni-
tion was expended with little profit, and that he, being
a poor man, very rarely indulged in it ; but that, if I
would accompany him after I had taken my coffee,
there being still about two hours of daylight, he would
show me his method, and he thought it very probable
that we should get a buck that evening. Accordingly,
having partaken of coffee, Strydom and I stalked forth
together across the wild and desolate-looking plain, fol-
lowed by two Hottentots, large herds of graceful spring-
boks pasturing on every side. He placed me behind a
small green bush, about eighteen inches in height, upon
a wide open flat, instructing me to lie flat on my breast,
and having proceeded some hundred yards, and taken

» Tlie manner of obtaining this ash is first to dig up the bushes and
collect ihera on the plains. There they are left until sufficiently dry to
burn, when, a calm day being selected, they are set on fire, and the
ashes are collected and stowed away in large sacks made of the raw
skins of wildebeests and zebras, when they are fit for immediate use.

72 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

up a similar position, he sent the Hottentots round a
herd of springboks which were feeding on the plain, to
endeavor to move them gently toward us. It was a
very beautiful thing altogether, and succeeded well.
The whole herd came on slowly, right toward where I
lay, until within a hundred yards, when I selected a
fine fat buck, which I rolled over with a ball in the
shoulder. This was the first fair shot that I had ob-
tained at a springbok on these plains. I have always
been reckoned by those who know my shooting to be a
very fair rifle-shot, whether standing or running, but I
do not profess to make sure work much beyond one
hundred and ten paces, or thereabouts.*

* The springbok is so termed by the colonists on account of its pe-
culiar habit of springing or taking extraordinary bounds, rising to an
incredible height in the air, when pursued. The extraordinary man-
ner in which springboks are capable of springing is best seen when
they are chased by a dog. On these occasions, away start the herd,
with a succession of strange perpendicular bounds, rising with curved
loins high into the air, and at the same time elevating the snowy folds
of long white hair ou their haunches and along their back, which im-
parts to them a peculiar fairy-like appearance, different from any other
animal. They bound to the height often or twelve feet, with the elas-
ticity of an India-rubber ball, clearing at each spring from twelve to
fifteen feet of ground, without apparently the slightest exertion. In
performing the spring, they appear for an instant as if suspended in the
air, when down come all four feet again together, and, striking the
plain, away they soar again, as if about to take flight. The herd only
adopt this motion for a few hundred yards, when they subside into a
light elastic trot, arching their graceful necks and lowering their noses
to the ground, as if in sportive mood. Presently pulliug up, they face
about, and reconnoiter the object of their alarm. In crossing any path
or wagon-road on which men have lately trod, the springbok invaria-
bly clears it by a single surprising bound : and when a herd of perhaps
many thousands have to cross a track of the sort, it is extremely beau-
tiful to see how each antelope performs this feat, so suspicious are they
of the gi-ound on which their enemy, man, has trodden. They bound
in a similar manner when passing to leeward of a lion, or any other
animal of which they entertain an instinctive dread.

The accumulated masses of living creatizres which the springboks*

AN EARLY START 73

Two days before this, I brought down a koran fly-
ing, with single ball. Our chances for this evening
being now over, and night setting in, I returned to the
farm with Strydom in high spirits.

CHAPTER IV.

A Bustard shot — Flight of Locusts — Quagga Shooting in the Dark-
Curious Mistake — Ostriches — A Sportsman napping — Leave Stry
dom's Residence in quest of Wildebeests — Wildebeest Shooting —
Meeting with a Brother Officer — Proceed to Colesberg — Additions to
Equipments.

At an early hour on the morning of the 6th, while I
was yet in bed, Hendric Strydom and his frau were
standing over my fire, alongside of my wagon, with a
welcome supply of sweet milk, and hurrying on the in-
dolent Hottentots to prepare my breakfast, and rouse
their slothful master, the earliest dawn being, as he
affirmed, the best time to go after the springboks. On
hearing their voices, I rose, and, having breakfasted,
we shouldered our " roers," walked about a mile across

exhibit on the greater migrations is utterly astounding, and any trav-
eler witnessing it as I have, and giving a true description of what he
has seen, can hardly expect to be believed, so marvelous is the scene.
They have been well and truly compared to the wasting swarms of
locusts, so familiar to the traveler in this land of wonders. Like them,
they coueurae every green thing in their course, laying waste vast dis-
tricts in a few hours, and ruining in a single night the iruits of the farm-
er's toil. The course adopted by the antelopes is generally such as to
bring them back to their own country by a route different from that
by which they set out. Thus their line of march sometimes forms
something like a vast oval or an e.xteusive square, of which the diam
eter may be some hundred miles, and the time occupied in this migra
tion may vary from six months to a year.

Vol. L— D

74 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

the plain, and took up positions behind two very low
bushes, about three hundred yards apart, and instruct-
ed our Hottentots to endeavor to drive the springboks
toward us. We had two beats, but were unlucky both
times, each of us wounding and losing a springbok. In
the evening we went out again to hunt on the same
principle, on a very wide flat to the west of his house,
where we lay down behind very low bushes, in the
middle of the bucks. We lay there on our breasts for
two hours, with herds of springboks moving all round
us, our Hottentots maneuvering in the distance. One
small troop came within shot of me, when I sent my
bullet spinning through a graceful doe, which bounded
forward a hundred yards, and, staggering for a moment,
fell over and expired. A little after this, I suddenly
perceived a large paow or bustard walking on the plain
before me. These birds are very wary and difficult to
approach. I therefore resolved to have a shot at him,
and lay like a piece of rock until he came within range,
when I sent a bullet through him. He managed, how-
ever, to fly about a quarter of a mile, when he alight-
ed ; and on going up to the place half an hour after, I
found him lying dead, with his head stuck into a bush
of heath.

Strydom had two family shots, and brought down
with each a well-conditioned buck. In high good-
humor with our success, we now proceeded to gralloch
or disembowel the quarry ; after which, each of us
shouldering a buck, we returned home in heavy march-
ing order. On the following day I had the pleasure of
beholding the first flight of locusts that I had seen since
my arrival in the colony. We were standing in the
middle of a plain of unlimited length, and about five
miles across, when I observed them advancing:. On

A FLIGHT OF LOCUSTS. 75

they came like a snow-storm, flying slow and steady,
about a hundred yards from the ground. I stood look-
ing at them until the air was darkened with their
masses, while the plain on which we stood became
densely covered with them. Far as my eye could
reach — east^ west, north, and south — they stretched in
one unbroken cloud, and more than an hour elapsed
before their devastating legions had swept by. I was
particularly struck with this most wonderful and truly
interesting sight ; and I remember at the time my
feeling was one of self-gratulation at having visited a
country where I could witness such a scene. On this
day aiid on the morrow Strydom and I continued to
wage successful war against the springboks. We cross-
ed the small stream called the Theljus River, and hunt-
ed on the plains to the east. On one occasion Hendrio.
brought down two fat bucks at one shot, which he as-
sured me was not an uncommon event with him.

On the morning of the 9th, Strydom and I having
resolved over night to go in quest of a troop of ostriches
which his Hottentot reported, frequenting the plains
immediately adjacent to the Thebus Mountain, we
started our Hottentots two hours before the dawn of
day ; and after an early breakfast we saddled up, and
rode direct for the Thebus Mountain. This remarkable
mountain, which I shall ever remember as the leading
feature on the plains where I first really commenced
my African hunting, is of peculiar shape, resembling a
cone depressed at the apex, and surmounted by a round
tower. It is also remarkable as being considerably
higher than the surrounding mountains, with which
the plains are bounded and intersected. As we rode
along, a balmy freshness pervaded the morning air.
We passed through herds of thousands of springboks,

76 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

with small herds of wildebeest scattered among them.
I fired two or three very long shots without success.
Strydom, however, was more fortunate. He fired into
a herd of about a hundred bucks at three hundred yards,
and hit one fine old buck right in the middle of the fore-
head, the ball passing clean through his skull. We hid
him in a hole in the ground, and covered him with
bushes, and then rode on to our Hottentots, whom we
found waiting beside a small fountain in a pass formed
by a wide gap in a low range of hills, situated between
two extensive plains which were thickly covered with
game. I took up my position in a bush of rushes in
the middle of the pass, and remained there for upward
of eight hours, during which our boys were supposed
to be endeavoring to drive the game toward us.

The Boer took up the best pass about a quarter of a
mile to my right. Before we had been an hour at our
passes, the boys drove up four beautiful ostriches, which
came and stood within fifty yards of Strydom, but,
alas ! he was asleep. About this time I was busy try-
ing to remember and practice a childish amusement
which once delighted me as much as rifle-shooting —
namely, making a cap of rushes, when, on suddenly
lifting up my eyes, I saw standing within eighty yards
of me about a dozen beautiful springboks, which were
coming up to the pass behind me. I snatched up my
rifle, and, lying flat on my breast, sent a bullet through
the best buck in the troop, smashing his shoulder. He
ran about fifty yards, and fell dead. . I unfortunately
left him lying exposed in the path, the consequence of
which was that three other troops of springboks, which
were coming up as he had come, were turned to the
right about by his carcass.

It was amusing to see the birds and beasts of proy

HUNTING OSTRICHES. 77

assembling to dispute tile carcass with me. First came
the common black and white carrion crow, then the
vultures ; the jackals knew the cry of the vultures, and
they too ca.Tie sneakmg from their hiding-places in the
rooks and holes of the ant-bear in the plains to share in
the feast, while I was obliged to remain a quiet spec-
tator, not daring to move, as the game was now in
herds on every side of me, and I expected to see os-
triches every mgnient. Presently a herd of wildebeest
came thundering down upon me, and passed within
shot. I put a bullet into one of these, too far behind
the shoulder, which, as is always the case with deer
and antelopes, did not seem to affect him in the slight-
est degree. In the afternoon we altered our positions,
and sent the boys to drive the plain beside which I had
been sitting all day. The quantity of bucks which
were now before our eyes beat all computation. The
plain extended, without a break, until the eye could
not discern any object smaller than a castle. Through-
out the whole of this extent were herds of thousands
and tens of thousands of springboks, interspersed with
troops of wildebeest. The boys sent us one herd of
about three hundred springboks, into which Strydora
let fly at about three hundred yards, and turned them
and all the rest.

It was now late in the day, so we made for home,
taking up the buck which Strydom had shot in the
morning. As we cantered along the flats, Strydom,
tempted by a herd of springboks, which were drawn up
together in a compact body, jumped off his horse, and,
giving his ivory sight an elevation of several feet, let
drive at them, the distance being about five hundred
yards. As the troop bounded away, we could distin-
guish a light-colored object lying in the short heath,

78

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRJCA.

which he pronounced to be a springbok, and on going
up we found one fine old doe lying dead, shot through
the spine. This day, and every day since I arrived at
these flats, I was astonished at the number of skeletons
and well-bleached skulls with which the plains were
covered. Thousands of skulls of springbok and wilde-
beest were strewed around wherever the hunter turned
his eye. The sun was extremely powerful all day, but,
being intent on the sport, I did not feel it until I found
my legs burned ; my dress, as usual, was the kilt, with
a gray stalk ing-c'ap. On reaching home the following
day, a large party of natives, belonging to the chief
Moshesh, arrived on the farm. These poor men were
traveling in quest of employment. Numbers of na-
tives annually visit the colony, and work for the Boers,
making stone inclosures for their cattle, and large dams
or embankments across little streams in the mouths of
valleys, for the purpose of collecting water in the rainy
season for the supply of their flocks and herds during
the protracted droughts of summer. They are paid
for their labor with young cows or she-goats. The re-
cent rains having washed away the embankment of a
dam situated in a distant range of hills, on the borders
of the farm, Strydom engaged these men to repair it.
The vicinity of the dam being a favorite haunt for
quaggas, and it being necessary that Strydom should
go there on the morrow, we resolved to hunt in the
neighboring district, in which were situated some high
and rugged hills. Accordingly, next day, we sallied
forth, and I ascended to one of their highest pinnacles,
where I managed to shoot a rhode-raebok. Joining
Strydom shortly afterward, we hunted over anothei
range of the same hills, where we fell in with three
|uaggas and other game. Night was now fast setting

XIGHT HL.NThNG. 79

in, SO we descended from the hills and made for home.
As we passed down we observed what we took to be a
herd of quaggas and a bull wildebeest standing in front
of us, upon which we jumped off our horses, and, bend-
ing our bodies, approached them to fire.

It was now quite darJc, and it was hard to tell what
sort of game we were going to fire at. Strydom, how-
ever, whispered to me that they were quaggas, and
they certainly appeared to be such. His gun snapped
three times at the wildebeest, upon which they all set
off at a gallop. Strydom, who was riding my stallion,
let go his bridle, when he ran in to fire, taking advant-
age of which the horse set off at a gallop after them
I then mounted " The Cow," and after riding hard for
about a mile I came up to them. They were now
standing still, and the stallion was in the middle of
them. I could make him out by his saddle ; so, jump-
ing off my horse in a state of intense excitement, I ran
forward and fired both barrels of my two-grooved rifle
into the quaggas, and heard the bullets tell loudly.
They then started off, but the stallion was soon once
more fighting in the middle of them. I was astonished
and delighted to remark how my horse was able to
take up their attention, so that they appeared heedless
of the reports of my rifle.

In haste I commenced loading, but to my dismay I
found that I had left my loading-rod with Hendric.
Mounting "The Cow," I rode nearer to the quaggas,
and was delighted to find that they allowed my horse
to come within easy shot. It was now very dark, but
I set off in the hope to fall in with Hendric on the
wide plain, and galloped along, shouting with all my
might, but in vain. I then rode across the plain for
the hill to trv to find some bush large enough to make

so ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

a ramrod . In this, by tlie greatest chance, I succeed-
ed, and, being provided with a knife, I cut a good ram-
rod, loaded my rifle, and rode off to seek the quaggas
once more. I soon fell in with them, and, coming with-
in shot, fired at them right and left, and heard both bul-
lets tell, upon which they galloped across the plain,
with the stallion still after them. One of them, how-
ever, was very hard hit, and soon dropped astern. The
stallion remained to keep him company.

About this time the moon shone forth faintly. J
galloped on after the troop, and presently coming up
with them, rode on one side, and dismounting, and
dropping on my knee, I sent a bullet through the shoul-
der of the last quagga ; he staggered forward, fell to
the ground with a heavy crash, and expired. The rest
of the troop charged wildly around him, snorting and
prancing like the wild horses in Mazeppa, and then set
off at full speed across the plain. I did not wait to
bleed the quagga, but, mounting my horse, galloped on
after the troop : I could not, however, overtake them.
I now returned, and endeavored to find the quagga
which I had last shot ; but, owing to the darkness, and
to my having no mark to guide me on the plain, I fail-
ed to find him. I then set off to try for the quagga
which had dropped astern with the stallion. Having
searched some time in vain, I dismounted, and laid my
head on the ground, when I made out two dark ob-
jects, which turned out to be what I sought. On my
approaching, the quagga tried to make off, when I sent
a ball through his shoulder, which laid him low. On
going up to him in the full expectation of inspecting for
the first time one of these animals, what was my dis-
appointment and vexation to find a fine brown gelding,
with two white stars on his forehead ! The truth now

A SAD MISTAKE. 81

flashed upon me ; Strydom and I had both been mis-
taken ; instead of qnaggas, the wagon-team of a neigh-
boring Dutchman had afforded me my evening's shoot-
ing !

I caught my stallion and rode home, intending to
pay for the horses which I had killed and wounded ;
but on telling my story to Strydom, with which he
seemed extremely amused, he told me not to say a
word about it, as the owners of the horses were very
avaricious, and would make me pay treble their value,
and that, if I kept quiet, it would be supposed they had
been killed either by lions or wild Bushmen. Strydom
and I continued hunting springboks till the 17th, dur-
ing which time we enjoyed a constant run of good luck,
and so fascinating was the sport that I felt as though
I never could tire of it. It was, indeed, a country
where a person who loved rifle-shooting ought to have
been content. Every morning, on opening my eyes,
the first thing which I saw, without raising my head
from the pillow, was herds of hundreds of springboks
grazing before me on the plains. On the 17th, an old
friend of Strydom's, a Boer from Magalisberg, outspan-
ned on the farm. He had been to Grahamstown with
a load of ivory, and was returning home with supplies
of tea, coffee, clothing, &c., sufficient for two years'
consumption. He was accompanied by his wife and
two tall gawky-looking daughters, and half a dozen
noisy geese, which were secured in a cage on the trap
of the wagon. This Boer informed me that I could
get all the rarer animals which I wished to shoot in his
vicinity, namely, sable antelope, roan antelope, eland,
water-buck, koodoo, pallah, elephant, black and white
rhinoceros, hippopotamus, giraffe, buffalo, lion, &c.
He told me he had shot elephants there with tasks

D2

82 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA..

weighing one hundred pounds each, and upward of
seven feet in length. He advised me not to visit that
country before the end of April, as my horses w^ould
assuredly die of a never-failing distemper which pre-
vails in the interior, within a certain latitude, during
the summer months.

Being anxious now to devote my attention more par-
ticularly to black wildebeests, of which I had not yet
secured a specimen, I resolved to take leave of my
friend Hendric Strydom, and proceed to the plains
beyond the Thebus Mountain, where he informed me
they abounded. Accordingly, about 9 P.M., having
inspanned by moonlight, I took leave of my friend,
having presented him with a coffee-mill and some
crockery, to which his frau had taken a fancy, and
also with a supply of coarse gunpowder, which is to a
Boer a most acceptable gift. We held for the Thebus
Mountain, steering across the open plains and follow-
ing no track, with springboks and wildebeests whistling
and bellowing on every side of us. About midnight
we halted by a fountain near the pass where a few
days before I had lain in ambush for eight hours, and
as it was probable that the oxen would wander during
the night, we secured them on the yokes. Two of my
oxen and both my horses were reported missing when
we left the farm, and I had left Cobus to seek for them.

In the afternoon of the next day my two servants
joined me, bringing with them the lost oxen, but having
failed to find the steeds. At night 1 took up a position
in an old shooting-hole beside the vley, to watch for
wildebeests. Several jackals, wildebeests, quaggas,
and hyaenas came to drink during the night, but, not
being able to see the sight of my rifle, I did not fire.
Here I remained until the briijht star of mornino; had

WILDEBEEST SHOOTING. 83

risen far above the horizon, and day was just beginning
to dawn, when, gently raising my head and looking
round, I saw, on one side of me, four wildebeests, and
on the other side ten. They were coming to drink ;
slowly and suspiciously they approached the water,
and, having convinced themselves that all was right^
they trotted, boldly up and commenced drinking. Se-
lecting the finest bull, I fired, and sent a bullet through
his shoulder, when, splashing through the water, he
bounded madly forward, and, having run about a hund-
red yards, rolled over in the dewy grass. I did not
show myself, other game being in sight, but lay still in
the hole. In about an hour an old springbok fed up to
within three hundred yards of me, and continued*brows-
ing there for a considerable time. As no more wilde-
beests seemed to be approaching, and as I was very
hungry, I put up my sight and took a cool, calculating
aim at him, and sent the ball through the middle of his
shoulder. I then left my hole, and, having inspected
the wildebeest bull, which was a noble specimen, I
walked up to my wagon, and sent the boys to cut up
the venison and preserve the head carefully.

On the following morning I woke as day dawned,
and held for my hole beside the vley, but had not gone
two hundred yards round the hillock when I saw an
old springbok feeding, which I stalked, and broke his
fore-leg. He went off toward the wagon, when the
boys slipped "Ganger" (one of my greyhounds), who
at once ran into him and pulled him down. Having
lain about an hour at the vley, two old wildebeests ap-
proached up wind, and, suspecting the groimd, described
a wide semicircle, like our red deer. I wounded one
of them, but he did not drop. I, however, managed to
send a ball thronoh the shouldrr of the otlior. when \w

84 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ran several hundred yards, wliisking his long white tail
as if all was right, and suddenly rolled over in full ca-
reer. His skin had a delicious smell of the grass and
wild herbs on which these animals lie and feed. On
proceeding to my wagon, I found all my men asleep.
Having gralloched the wildebeest, we bore him bodily
to the wagon on the " lechtezuit," which is a bar of
hard wood used in greasing the wagon wheels, when I
immediately set about curing the head, it being a very
fine one.

On the following morning Cobus returned, having
found my two horses. While taking my breakfast, I
observed a gentleman approaching on horseback ; this
was Mr. Paterson, an officer of the 91st, a detachment
of which was then quartered at Colesberg. Lieutenant
Borrow, a brother officer of inine, had intrusted mo
with the care of a rifle which he was sending to Mr.
Paterson, and, as I had been a long time on the road,
he had now come to look after it. He was a keen
sportsman, and I had much pleasure in meeting so
agreeable a person in the wilderness. Having joined
me in my rough breakfast with a true hunter's appe-
tite, we rode forth together to look for the wildebeest I
had wounded in the morning, expecting to find him
dead. On reaching the ground, we found five small
herds of wildebeests charging about the plain, and for
a long time could not discover the wounded one ; at
length I perceived an old bull with his head drooping,
which I at once pronounced to be my friend. On ob-
serving him, we dismounted and watched him for a
short time. The others inclined to make off, but seem-
ed unwilling to leave him. Being now convinced that
this was the wildebeest we sought, we determined to
give him chase, and try to ride into him ; but, just as

\RRIVAL AT COLESBERG. 8'1

we Lad come to this resolution, he fell violently to the
ground, raising a cloud of dust. On riding up to him
we found him dead.

Paterson and I then made for the vley, and had not
proceeded two hundred yards when, on looking back, J
saw about thirty large vultures standing on the wilde-
beest, which in a very short space of time they would
have devoured. On the morrow Paterson left me and
rode back for Colesberg, having first extracted a prom-
ise that I would follow him within three days. I ac-
cordingly hunted until that time had expired, when I
reluctantly inspanned and marched upon Colesberg.
Three Ions: marches brought us to the farm of a Boer
named Penar, who had been recommended to me as
having a good stamp of horses, and as being reasonable
in his prices. I was, however, disappointed with his
stud, and, finding him exorbitant in his prices, no busi-
ness was transacted. The country continued much
the same — wide Karroo plains, bounded by abrupt rocky
mountains. One more long march brought us within
five miles of Colesberg, where I halted for the night.

On the 27th, having taken an early breakfast, we
trekked into Colesberg, where, having chosen a position
for my camp, I outspanned and took up my quarters
with Paterson. The village of Colesberg is so called
from a conspicuous, lofty table-mountain in its imme-
diate vicinity, which takes its name from a former gov-
ernor of the colony. The town is situated in a confin-
ed hollow, surrounded on all sides by low rocky hills.
The formation of these rocks is igneous, and the way
in which they are distributed is very remarkable.
Large and shapeless masses are heaped together and
piled one above another, as if by the hand of some
mighty giant of the olden times. The town is well

86 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

sC'Dplied with water from a strong fountain which
bursts from the base of one of these roclcy hillocks above
the level of the town, and by which the small gardens
adjoining the houses are irrigated. Abundance of
water is the only advantage that the situation can
boast of. In the town are several large stores, from
which the Boers of the surrounding districts can obtain
every necessary article in their domestic economy.
Numbers of these farmers attend the market weekly
with their wagons, bringing in the produce of their
farms and gardens; and, on sacramental occasions,
which happen four times every year, the town is inun-
dated with Boers, who bring in their families in horse-
wagons. Owing to the unsettled state of the country,
troops were then stationed at Colesberg. The garrison
consisted of about two hundred men of the 91st, under
command of my cousin. Colonel Campbell, and one com-
pany of the Cape Mounted Rifles, commanded by Cap-
tain Donovan. Colesberg was in those days a pleasant
quarter, as there was not much pipe-clay, and very good
shooting could be obtained within a few hours of can-
tonment.

In the forenoon we had some rifle practice at a large
granite stone above the town, which the privates of the
91st were wont to pepper on ball-practice days. On
this occasion I saw some very good shooting by Camp-
bell, Yarborough, Bailey, and Paterson, all officers of
the 91st, and about the four best shots on the frontier.
These four Nimrods had a short time previously boldly
challenged any four Dutchmen of the Graaf Reinet or
Colesberg districts to shoot against them. The chal-
lenge was accepted by four Dutchmen, who, of course,
got "jolly well licked."

A.fter spend 'ng a few days very pleasantly with the

PURCHASES. 87

garrison, I resolved to hunt on and about the frontiers
until the end of March, at which time the horse dis-
temper begins to subside, when I proposed starting on
an elephant-hunting expedition into the more remote
districts of the far interior. In Colesberg I purchased,
by the kind recommendation of Captain Donovan, a
second wagon of the cap-tent kind, which turned out
to be an unusually good one. Its price was £50. I
also purchased an excellent span of black and white
oxen from a Dutch blacksmith in the town. From
Donovan I bought a dark-brown horse, which I named
Colesberg. His price was three hundred dollars, and
he was well worth double that sum, for a better steed
I never crossed. I purchased from a Boer in the town
another horse, well known to the garrison by the sobri-
quet of the " Immense Brute." He was once the prop-
erty of Captain Christie of the 91st. When, on one
occasion, having wandered, an advertisement appeared
in one of the frontier papers relative to an " immense
brute" in the shape of a tall bay horse, the property of
Captain Christie, &c., &c., and ever since he had been
distinguished by this elegant appellation. I exchanged
my brown stallion with Colonel Campbell for an active
gray, which I considered better adapted to my work.
Glass was at this time at a premium in Colesberg,
every window in the town having been smashed by a
recent hail-storm. I loaded up my new wagon with
barley, oats, and forage for my horses, they having very
hard work before them — hunting the oryx, upon which
I was more immediately bent, being more trying to
horses than any other sport in South Africa.

My intention was to revisit Colesberg in four or five
months, and refit, preparatory to starting for the far in
terior. T left the skulls and .-. '• -iiriRns of natural his

88 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA*

tory which I had already collected in the charge of my
friend Mr. Dickson, a merchant in Colesberg. During
my stay in Colesberg my men were in a constant state
of beastly intoxication, and gave me much trouble, and
my oxen and horses were constantly reported in the
" skit-kraal" or pound. I engaged one more Plottentot,
named John Stofolus, as driver to the new wagon. He
was an active, stout little man, and very neat-handed
at stuffing the heads of game, preserving specimens, or
any other little job which I might give him to do. He
was, however, extremely fond of fighting with his com-
rades, and v/as ever boasting of his own prowess ; but
when his courage was put to the proof in assisting me
to hunt the more dangerous animals, he was found wo-
fully deficient.

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Colesberg — Jaging Springbok — Vast Herds of Game-
Swarms of Flies — Oology — A Nomade Boer's Encampment — Anec-
dote of the Gemsbok — Cobus rides down a splendid old Bull Gems-
bok — A Night in the Desert — Fatersou amves — Bushmen — Their ex-
Inordiuary Raids across the Desert

On the evening of the 2d of December, with consid-
erable difficulty I collected my drunken servants, my
oxen and horses, and, taking leave of my kind enter-
tainers, trekked out of Colesberg, steering west for the
vast Karroo plains, where the gemsbok were said to be
still abundant. It was agreed that Campbell should
follow me on the second day to hunt springbok and
black wildebeost, in a district through which I was to
travel ; and Paterson had applied for a fortnight's leave,

JAGING SPRmSBOK. 89

with the intention of joining me in the gemsbok coun-
try, and enjoying along with me, for a few days, the
exciting sport of " jaging" that antelope. I did not pro-
ceed very far that evening, my men being intoxicated,
and having several times very nearly capsized the wag-
ons, I halted shortly after sundown, when, all the work
with the oxen and horses falling upon me, and no fuel
being at hand, I was obliged to content myself by din-
ing on a handful of raw meal and a glass of gin and
water. On the following day we performed two long
marches, crossing the Sea-Cow River, and halted as it
grew dark on a Boer's farm where the plains were cov-
ered with springbok. Here Campbell had instructed
me to await his arrival, and next morning he was seen
approaching the wagons, mounted on the " Immense
Brute," and leading two others.

Having breakfasted, we started on horseback to "jag"
springbok and wildebeest, ordering the wagons to pro-
ceed to a vley about four miles to the west. We gal-
loped about the plains, loading and firing for about six
hours. The game was very wild. I wounded three
springboks and one wildebeest, but lost them all.
Campbell shot tv/o springboks. The first was entirely
eaten by the vultures (notwithstanding the bushes with
which we had covered him), and skinned as neatly as
if done by the hand of man. The second had its leg
broken by the ball, and was making off, when a jackal
suddenly appeared on the bare plain, and, giving him
chase, after a good course ran into him.*

* This is a very remarkable and not unfrequent occurrence. Often
when a springbok is thus wounded, one or more jackals suddenly ap-
pear and assist the hunter in capturing his quarry. In the more distant
hunting-lands of the interior, it sometimes happens that the lion assists
the sportsman in a similar manner with the larger animals; and though
this may appear like a traveler's story, it is nevertheless true, and in-

90 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Next morning, having bathed and breakfasted, (^amp.
bell and I parted, he for Colesberg and I for the Karroo.
I trekked on all day, and, having performed a march
of twenty-five miles, halted at sundown on the farm of
old Wessel, whom I found very drunk. My road lay
through vast plains, intersected with ridges of stony
hills. On these plains I found the game in herds ex-
ceeding any thing I had yet seen — springbok in troops
of at least ten thousand ; also large bodies of quaggas,
wildebeest, blesbok, and several ostriches. I had hoped
to have purchased some horses from Wessel, but he was
too drunk to transact any business, informing me that
he was a Boer, and could not endure the sight of En-
glishmen, at the same time shoving me out of the house,
much to the horror of his wife and daughters, who
seemed rather nice people.

Two more days of hard marching, under a burning
sun, brought me to the farm of Mynheer Stinkum,
which I reached late on the evening of the 7th. H^
informed me that about fifteen miles to the west of his
farm I should fall in with a Boer of the wandering tribe
who would direct me to a remote vley in the Karroo, a

stances of the kind happened both to myself and to Mr. Osvvell of the
H. E. I. C. S., a dashing sportsman, and one of the best hunters I ever
met, who performed two hunting expeditions into the interior. Mr.
Oswell and a companion were one day galloping along the shady banks
of the Limpopo, in full pursuit of a wouuded buffalo, when they were
suddenly joined by three lions, who seemed determined to dispute the
chase with them The buffalo held stoutly on, followed by the three
lions, Oswell and his companion bi'inging up the rear. Veiy soon the
lions sprang upon the mighty bull and dragged him to the ground, when
the most teiTific scuffle ensued. Mr. Oswell and friend then approached
and opened their fire upon the royal family, and, as each ball struck the
lions, they seemed to consider it was a poke from the horns of the buffa-
lo, and redoubled their attentions to him. At length the sportsmen suc-
ceeded in bowling over two of the lions, upon which the third, finding
the ground too hot for him, made off.

SWARMS OF FLIES OOLOGY. 91

good many miles beyond his encampment, to which ho
advised me at once to proceed and hunt in its vicinity.
He represented that district as not having been recent-
ly disturbed by hunters, and doubted not but I should
find gemsbok and other varieties of game abundant

It being now summer, flies prevailed in fearful
swarms in the abodes of the Boers, attracted thither by
the smell of meat and milk. On entering Stinkum's
house, I found the walls of his large sitting-room actu-
ally black with these disgusting insects. They are a
cruel plague to the settlers in Southern Africa, and it
often requires considerable ingenuity to eat one's din-
ner or drink a cup of coffee without consuming a num-
ber of them. When food is served up, two or three
Hottentots or Bush-girls are always in attendance with
fans made of ostrich feathers, which they keep continu-
ally waving over the food till the repast is finished.

This morning I purchased a handsome chestnut pony
from a Boer named Duprey, a field cornet, from whom
I obtained an egg of the bustard of the largest species
for my collection, oology being a subject in which for
many years of my life I had taken great interest, hav-
ing in my possession one of the finest collections in
Great Britain, amassed with much toil and danger. I
have descended most of the loftiest precipices in the
central Highlands of Scotland, and along the sea-shore,
with a rope round my wais,'t, in quest of the eggs of the
various eagles and falcons which have their eyries in
those almost inaccessible situations. Among Stink-
um's stud was a handsome brown gelding, to which 1
took a great fancy ; and after consulting for some time
with his wife, he made up his mind to part with him
The lowest price was to be i£18. After a good deal of
bargaining, however, I persuaded him to part with hira

92 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

for d£12 in cash, fifteen pounds of cofFee, and twenty
pounds of gunpowder. I christened this horse " Sun-
day,"*'in honor of the day on which I obtained him.
This bargain being conchided, I inspanned, and trek-
ked to the wandering Boer, whom I reached about an
hour after sundown.

This man's nam'e was Gous ; he lived in a small
canvas tent pitched between his two wagons, round
which his vast flocks of sheep assembled every evening,
his cattle and horses running day and night in a neigh-
boring range of grassy hills. His w4fe was one of the
best-looking women I met among the Boers : she in-
formed me that she was of French extraction. On the
following morning I breakfasted with Gous in his tent :
he had lots of flesh, milk, and wild honey, which last
article was reported abundant that season. He offered
to sell to me a brown horse of good appearance; his
price was too high, but at a subsequent period we came
to terms, and I bought him. After breakfast I inspan-
ned, and, having proceeded a few miles across a glow-
ing plain, on which I counted fourteen tall ostriches
stalking amid large herds of other game, I reached a
periodical stream, where I outspanned, the sun being
intensely powerful. Here I found another Boer, named
Sweirs, encamped with his flocks and herds, having
been obliged to leave, his farm, situated far in the depths
of the Karroo, from want of water. Sweirs was an
elderly man, but had been a keen sportsman, and en-
tertained me with many interesting anecdotes relative
to the habits of the game and of his hunting adventures
in his early days. He informed me that he remember-
ed lions extremely abundant in those districts, and that
a few were still to be met with; He related to me in-
stances where he had seen the gemsbok beat off" the

WILD GEESE AND OTHER GAME. 9S

lion, and he had also come upon the carcasses of both
rotting on the plain, the body of the lion being trans-
fixed by the long, sharp horns of the powerful gemsbok
so that he could not extract them, and thus both had
perished together. He also mentioned that, notwith-
standing the agility of the springbok, he had often
known the lion dash to the ground two, three, and four
in quick succession in a troop.

Four of my oxen being footsore and unable to pro-
ceed, I left them in charge of old Sweirs, and in the
cool of the evening I inspanned, and, having proceeded
about five miles through an extremely wild and deso-
late-looking country, on clearing a neck in a range of
low, rocky hills I came full in view of the vley or pool
of water beside which I had been directed to encamp.
The breadth of this vley was about three hundred
yards. One side of it was grassy, and patronized by
several flocks of Egyptian wild geese, a species of bar-
nacle, wild ducks, egrets, and cranes. The other side
was bare, and here the game drank, and the margin
of the water was trampled by the feet of wild animals
like an English horse-pond. There being no trees be-
side which to form our camp, we drew up our wagons
among some low bushes, about four hundred yards
from the vley. When the sun went down I selected
the three horses which were to carry myself and two
after-riders in the chase of the unicorn on the following
morning, and directed my boys to give them a liberal
supply of forage to eat during the night.*

* The oryx, or gemsbok, to which I was now about to direct my at-
tention more particularly, is about the most beautiful and remarkabl't
of all the antelope tribe. It is the animal which is supposed to havt*
given rise to the fable of the unicorn, from its long, straight horns, when
«een, en profile, so exactly covering one another as to give it the ap-
^•arance of having but one. It possesses the erect mane, long, sv^^eej-*-

94 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

On the 10th of December, every thing having been
made ready overnight, I took cotiee, saddled up, and
started an hour before day-dawn, accompanied by Co-
bus and Jacob as after-riders, leading a spare horse
with my pack-saddle. We held a southwesterly course,
and at length reached the base of a little hillock slight-
ly elevated above the surrounding scenery. Here ]
dismounted, and, having ascended to the summit, ex-
amined the country all around minutely with my spy-
glass, but could not see any thing like the oryx. 1
was in the act of putting up my glass again, when, to
my intense delight, I perceived, feeding within four
hundred yards, in a hollow between two hillocks, a glo-
rious herd of about five-and-twenty of the long-wished-

ing black tail, and general appearance of the horse, with the head and
hoofs of an antelope. It is robust in its form, squarely and compactly
built, and very noble in its bearing. Its height is about that of an ass,
and in color it slightly resembles that animal. The beautiful black
bands which eccentrically adorn its head, giving it the appearance of
wearing a stall-collar, together with the manner in which the rump and
thighs are painted, impart to it a cliaracter peculiar to itself. The adult
male measures three feet ten inches in height at the shoulder.

Tlie gemsbok was destined by nature to adorn the parched kari'oos
and arid deserts of South Africa, for which description of country it ia
admii'ably adapted. It thrives and attains high condition in barren re-
gions, where it might be imagined that a locust would not find subsist-
ence, and, burning as is the climate, it is perfectly independent of wa-
ter, which, from ray own observation, and the repeated reports both
of the Boers and aborigines, I am convinced it never by any chance
tastes. Its flesh is deservedly esteemed, and ranks next to the eland.
At certain seasons of the year they carry a great quantity of fat, at which
time they can more easily be ridden into. Owing to the even nature
of the ground which the oryx frequents, its shy and suspicious disposi-
tion, and the extreme distances from water to which it must be follow-
ed, it is never stalked or driven to an ambush like other antelopes, but
is hunted on horseback, and ridden down by a long, severe, tail-ou-end
chase. Of several animals in South Africa which are hunted in this
manner, and may be ridden into by a horse, the oryx is by far the swift-
est and most enduring. They are widely diffused throughout the cen-
ter and western parts of South Africa.

HUNTING GEMSBOKS. 93

for gemsbok, with a fine old ball feeding at a little dis-
tance by himself, their long, sharp horns glancing in
the morning sun like the cheese-toasters of a troop of
dragoons. I scarcely allowed myself a moment to feast
my eyes on the thrilling sight before me, when I re-
turned to my boys, and with them concerted a plan to
circumvent them.*

Wc agreed that Jacob and I should endeavor to ride
by a circuitous course a long way to windward of the
herd, and that Cobus should then give chase and drive
them toward us. The wind was westerly, but the dis-
trict to which this herd seemed to belong unfortunate-
ly lay to the northward. Jacob and I rode steadily on,
occasionally looking behind us, and, presently taking
up a commanding position, strained our eyes in the di-

* At this time I was very much in the dark as to the speeJ of the
gemsbok, having been led by a friend to believe that a person even
of my vveight, if tolerably mounted, could invariably, after a long chase,
ride right nito them. This, however, is not the case. My friend was'
deceived in the opinion which he had formed. The fact of the matter
was, that hu had been hunting a long way to windward of a party who
were hunting on the same plains v/ith him, and several of the ggmsboks
which he had killed had previously been severely chased by the other
party. In the whole course of my adventures with gemsbok I only re-
member four occasions, when mounted on the pick of my stud (which
I nearly sacrificed in the attempt), that alone and unassisted I succeed-
ed in riding the oryx to a stand-still. The plan which I adopted, and
which is generally used by the Boers, was to mount my light Hotten-
tots or Bushmen on horses of great endurance, and thus, as it were,
convert them into greyhounds, with which I coursed the gemsbok as
we do stags in Scotland with our rough deer-hounds. A " tail-on-end"
chase is sometimes saved, in parts where the hunter, from a previous
knowledge of the country, knows the course which the gemsbok will
take; when, having first discovered the herd, the after-rider is directed
to remain quiet until the hunter shall have proceeded by a wide semi-
circular course some miles to windward of the herd, which being ac
complished. the Hottentot gives the troop a tremendous burst toward
his master, who, by riding hard for their line, generally manages to get
within easy shot as the panting herd strains past him. J

9h ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

rection of the gemsboks, in the full expectation of see*
ing them flying toward us. After waiting a consider,
able time and nothing appearing, I folt convinced that
we were wrong, and in this conjecture I judged well.
A slight inequality in the plain had concealed from our
view the retreating herd, which had started in a north-
erly course. Cobus had long since dashed into the
Herd, and was at that moment flying across the plains
after them, I knew not in what direction. After gal-
loping athwart the boundless plains in a state border-
ing on distraction, I gave it up, and, accompanied by
Jacob, returned to the wagons in any thing but a
placid frame of mind.

About two hours after, Cobus reached the wagon,
having ridden the old bull to a stand-still. The old
fellow had lain down repeatedly toward the end of the
chase, and at length could proceed no further, and
Cobus, after waiting some time and seeing no signs of
his master, had reluctantly left him. In the height of
the day the sun was intensely powerful; I felt much
disgusted at my want of luck in my first attempt, and,
burning with anxiety for another trial, I resolved to
take the field again in the afternoon, more especially
as we had not a pound of flesh in camp. Between 3
and 4 P.M. I again sallied forth with the same after-
riders leading a spare horse. "We cantered across plains
to the northeast, and soon fell in with ostriches and
quaggas, and, after riding a few miles through rather
bushy ground, a large herd of hartebeest cantered across
our path, and these were presently joined by two or
three herds of quaggas and wildebeests, which kept re-
treating as we advanced, their course being marked by
clouds of red dust. At length I perceived a herd of ash-
c<^ored bucks stealing right away ahead of the other

EXCITING CHASE. 97

game ; I at once knew them to be gemsbok, and gave
chase at a hard canter. I gradually gained upon them,
ttnd, after riding hard for about two miles, I ordered
Cobus to go ahead and endeavor to close with them.
At this moment v/e had reached the border of a slight
depression on the plain, down which the herd led, af-
fording me a perfect view of the exciting scene. The
gemsbok now increased their space, but Cobus's horse,
which was a good one with a very light weight, gained
upon them at every stride, and before they had reach-
ed the opposite side of the plain he was in tljg middle
of the foaming herd, and had turned out a beautiful
cow with a pair of uncommonly fine long horns. In
one minute he dexterously turned her in my direction,
and, heading her, I obtained a fine chance, and rolled
her over with two bullets in her shoulder. My thirst
was intense, and, the gemsbok having a fine breast of
milk, I milked her into my mouth, and obtained a drink
of the sweetest beverage I ever tasted.

While I was thus engaged, Cobus was shifting his
saddle from the " Immense Brute" to the gray, which
being accomplished, I ordered him to renew the chase
and try to ride down the old bull for me. We fasten-
ed the " Immense Brute" to a bush beside the dead
gemsbok, and then, mounting the horse which Jacob
had been riding, T followed on as best I might. On
gaining the first ridge, I perceived the troop of oryx
about two miles ahead of me, ascending another ridge
at the extremity of the plain, and Cobus riding hard
for them about a mile astern, but rapidly gaining on
them. Oryx and boy soon disappeared over the dis-
tant ridge, the boy still far behind. The country here
changed from grass and bushes to extreme sterility;
the whole ground was undermined with the holes of

Vol. L— E

98 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

colonies of meercat or mouse-hunts. This burrowed
ground, which is common throughout these parts, was
extremely distressing to our horses, the soil giving way
at every step, and my steed soon began to flag. On
gaining the distant ridge a wide plain lay before me.
I looked in every direction, straining my eyes to catch
a glimpse of Cobus and the oryx, but they were no-
where to be seen. At length, after riding about two
miles further in the direction which he seemed to hold
when I had last seen him, I detected his white shirt
on a ridge a long way to my right, and on coming up
to him I found that he had ridden the old bull to a
stand-still: the old fellow was actually lying panting
beside a green bush. I thought him one of the most
lovely animals I had ever beheld, and I could have gaz-
ed for hours at him ; but I was now many miles from
my wagons, without a chance of water, and dying of
thirst, so I speedily finished the poor oryx, and having
carefully cut off the head, commenced skinning him.

It was now late — too late to take home the cow oryx
that night; the bull was much too far from my camp
to think of saving any part of the flesh. I therefore
sent off Cobus to the wagons to fetch water and bread,
desiring him to meet me at a spot where the cow gems-
bok was lying, where I resolved to sleep, to protect her
from hyaenas and jackals; but before Jacob and I had
accomplished the skinning, and secured the skin and
the head upon the horse, night had set in. My thirst
was now fearful, and becoming more and more raging.
I would have given any thing I possessed for a bottle
of water. In the hope of meeting Cobus, Jacob and I
rode slowly forward, and endeavored to find out the
place; but darkness coming on, and there being no
feature in the desert to guide me, I lost my way en-

A NIGHT IN THE DESERT. 99

tirely, and after wandering for several hours in the dark,
and firing blank shots at intervals, we lay down in the
open plain to sleep till morning, having tied our horse?
to a thorny bush beside where we lay. I felt very cold
all night, but my thirst continued raging. My clothes
consisted of a shirt and a pair of knee-breeches. M} ■
bed was the bull's hide laid over a thorny bush, which
imparted to my tough mattress the elasticity of a feath-
er bed. Having slept about two hours, I awoke, and
found that our horses had absconded; after which I
slept little. Day dawned, and I rose; and on looking
about, neither Jacob nor I had the most remote idea
of the ground we were on, nor of the position of our
camp.

Within a few hundred yards of us was a small hill,
which we ascended and looked about, but could not in
the least recognize the ground. I, however, ascertain-
ed the points of the compass and the position of my
camp by placing my left hand toward the rising sun.
I was then returning to the spot where I had slept,
when suddenly I perceived, standing within three hund-
red yards of me, the horse which I had fastened beside
the cow oryx on the preceding evening, and on going up
I found both all right. I immediately saddled the horse
and rode hard for camp, ordering Jacob to commence
skinning the cow, and promising to send him water and
bread as soon as I reached the wagons.

On my way thither I met Cobus on horseback, bear-
ing bread and a bottle of water, wandering he knew
not whither, having entirely lost his reckoning. My
thirst had by this time departed, so I did not touch the
water, but allowed him to take it on to Jacob. He in-
formed me that John Stofolus was coming on with the
baggage-wagon to take up the venison, and before rid-

100 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ing far I fell in with him, having, with a Hottentot's
usual good sense, come away without water in the
casks. Having shown him how to steer, I rode on to
the camp, which I was right glad to reach, and felt
much refreshed with a good bowl of tea. I was active-
ly employed during the rest of the day in preserving the
two oryx-heads for my collection. In the evening a
horseman on a jaded steed was seen approaching the
wagons, accompanied by an after-rider leading a spare
horse. This was my friend Paterson, who had suc-
ceeded in obtaining a fortnight's leave of absence, and
with whom that evening, over a gemsbok stew, I
" fought my battles o'er again." Our respective studs
being considerably done up and in need of rest, the
following day was devoted to " dulce otium," washing
our rifles, and writing up the log.

On the 14tli we went out on foot after a troop of
ostriches, one of which we wounded, and came home
much exhausted. The very ground was as hot as the
side of a stove. The following day we were visited by
a party of Boers from the neighboring encampments,
who had come to see how we were getting on. Find-
ing our brandy good, they made themselves very agreea-
ble, and sat for many hours conversing with us. The
leading subject of conversation was gemsbok and lion
shooting, and the slaying and capturing of whole tribes
of marauding Bushmen in by-gone days. They in-
formed us that when they first occupied these districts
the game was far more abundant, and eland and koo-
doos were plentiful. Their herds of cattle were con-
stantly attacked and plundered by the vindictive wild
Bushmen.^ The Boers informed us that in a country

• Unlike the Caffre tribes, who lift cattle for the purpose of preserv-
ing them and breeding from them, the sole object of the Bushmen is to

RAIDS OF THE BUSHMEN. 101

to the southwest of our actual position, a tribe of these
natives for many years were in the habit of practicing
raids with impunity upon the herds of the farmers in
the Raw-feldt, assisted by avast and impracticable des-
ert which intervened between their country and the
more fertile pastoral districts. They seemed to prefer
extremely dry seasons for these incursions, their object
in this being that their pursuers, who of course follow-
ed on horseback while they were always on foot, should
not obtain water for their horses. Their own wants
in this respect they provided for m the following curi-
ous manner. They had regular stages at long inter-
vals in a direct line across the desert, where, assisted
by their wives, they concealed water in ostrich eggs,
which they brought from amazing distances, and these
spots, being marked by some slight inequality in the
ground, they could discover either by day or night from
their perfect knowledge of the country. They were
thus enabled fearlessly to drive off a herd of cattle, whose
sufferings from thirst gave them little concern, and to
travel day and night, while their mounted pursuers, re-
drive them to their sechided habitations iu the desert, •svhere they mas
sacre them indiscriminately, and continue feasting and gorging tliem-
selves until the flesii becomes putrid. When a KafBr has lifted cattle,
and finds himself so hotly pursued by the owners that he can not escape
with his booty, he betakes himself to flight, and leaves the cattle un-
scathed ; but the spiteful Bushmen have a most provoking and cruel
system of hon-ibly mutilating the poor cattle when they find that they
arc likely to fall into the hands of their rightful owners, by discharging
tlieir poisoned arrows at them, hamstringing them, and cutting lumps
of Hesh off their living carcasses. This naturally so incenses the owners
that they never show the Bushmen any quarter, but shoot them down
right and left, sparing only the children, whom they tame and convert
into servants. The people wlio suffer from these depredations are
Boers, Griquas, and Bechuanas, all of whom are possessed of large herds
of cattle, and the massacres of the Bushmen, arising from these raids,
are endless.

J 02 aDVKN'I'LKKS in ^^OL•TH AFUICA.

quiring light to hold the spoor, could necessarily only
follow by day, and were soon obliged to give up the pur-
suit on account of their horses heina: without water

CHAPTER VL

Hard Chase of an Oryx — A brindled Gnoo reduces himself to a "dead
Lock," and is taken — Patersou slays a Gemsbok and a Bull Wilde-
beest— He leaves for Colesberg — Ostrich Eggs — Novel Method of
canying them — Anecdotes of the Ostrich — Affray with a Porcupine
— He proves a rough Rider for my Horse — Narrow Escape from the
Thrust of a dying Oiyx — The grateful Water-root — Troops of Spring-
boks cover the Face of the Land — Their Migrations — The finest shot
at my Leism-e — Beer Vley.

At an early hour on the morning of the 16th Pat-
erson and I again took the field, accompanied by our
three after-riders, and, having ridden several miles in
a northerly direction, we started an oryx, to which Pat-
erson and his after-rider gave immediate chase. I then
rode in an easterly direction, and shortly fell in with a
fine old cow oryx, which we instantly charged. She
stole away at a killing pace, her black tail streaming
in the wind, and her long, sharp horns laid well back
over her shoulders. Aware of her danger, and anxious
to gain the desert, she put forth her utmost speed, and
strained across the bushy plain. She led us a tearing
chase of upward of five miles in a northerly course, Co-
bus sticking well into her, and I falling far behind.
After a sharp burst of about three miles, Cobus and
the gray disappeared over a ridge about half a miio
ahead of me I here mounted a fresh horse, which had

EXCITING CHASE. 103

oeen led by Jacob, and follo^Yed. On gaining the ridge,
I perceived the gray disappearing over another ridge a
fearfully long way ahead. When I reached this point
I conmianded an extremely extensive prospect, but no
living object was visible on thi; desolate plain.

While deliberating in which direction to ride, I sud-
denly heard a pistol shot some distance to my left,
which I knew to be Cobus's signal that the oryx was
at bay. Having ridden half a mile, I discovered Cobus
dismounted in a hollow, and no oryx in view. Pie had
succeeded in riding the quarry to a stand, and I not
immediately appearing, he very injudiciously had at
once lost sight of the buck and left it. Having up-
braided Cobus in no measured terras for his stupidity,
I sought to retrieve the fortunes of the day by riding in
the direction in which he had left the oryx. The ground
here was uneven, and interspersed with low hillocks.
We extended our front, and rode on up wind, and, hav-
ing crossed two or three ridges, I discovered a troop of
bucks a long way ahead. Having made for these, they
turned out to be hartebeests. At this moment I per-
ceived three magnificent oryx a short distance to my left.
On observing xis, they cantered along the ridge toward a
fourth oryx, which I at once perceived to be "embossed
with foam and dark with soil," and knew to be the an-
telope sought for. Once more we charged her. Our
horses had now considerably recovered their wind, but
the poor oryx was much distressed ; and after a chase
of half a mile, I jumped off my horse and sent a bullet
through her ribs, which brought her to a stand, when
I finished her with the other barrel. She proved a fino
old cow with very handsome horns ; the spot on which
she. fell being so sterile that we could not even obtain
the smallest bushes with which to conceal her from the

104 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

vultures, we covered hor with my after-rider's saddle*
cloth, which consisted of a large blanket : the head, on
which I placed great value, we cut off and bore along
with us.

On my way home I came across Paterson's after-
rider, " jaging" a troop of seven gemsbok, but fearfully
to leeward, his illustrious master being nowhere in sight.
An hour after I reached the camp Paterson came in,
in a towering rage, having been unlucky in both his
chases. I now dispatched one of my wagons to bring
home my oryx. It returned about twelve o'clock that
night, carrying the skin of my gBn.sbok and also a mag-
nificent old blue wildebeest (the brindled gnoo), which
the Hottentots had obtained in an extraordinary man-
ner. Pie was found with one ol his fore legs caught
over his horn, so that he could not run, and they ham-
strung him and cut his throat. He had probably man-
aged to get himself into this awkward attitude while
5ghting with some of his fellows. The vultures had
ijonsumed all the flesh of the gemsbok, and likewise
torn my blanket with wiiich I had covered her.

On the following day, all our steeds being very much
done up, Paterson and I visited the neighboring Boers
to endeavor to buy and hire some horses. I bought
one clipper of Mynheer Gous for £25, and called him
" Grouse," and Paterson succeeded in hiring one, and
with these, on the following day, we continued our
campaign against the gemsboks. Paterson's after-rider
not being well up to his work, I lent him Cobus, and
on this occasion his perseverance was rewarded by a
noble gemsbok, which he rode down and slew, and also
a fine bull blue wildebeest, which last animal is rather
rare in these parts. We had one more day together,
after which, much to my regret, Paterson was obliged

OSTRICH EGGS. 105

to take leave of me and start for Colesberg, his leave
of absence having expired. One of his horses being
foot-sore, I purchased him, in the hope of his soon re-
covering, which after a few days' rest he did : I called
him " Paterson," after his old master. My stud now
consisted of eight horses ; but three of them were miss-
ing, and I dispatched Jacob in quest of them, who re-
turned on the third day bringing them with him, hav-
ing followed the spoor upward of fifty miles.

In the evening two of the Hottentots walked in to
camp, bending under a burden of ostrich eggs, having
discovered a nest containing five-and-thirty. Their
manner of carrying them amused me. Having divest-
ed themselves of their leather "crackers," which in co-
lonial phrase means trowsers, they had secured the an-
kles with rheimpys, and, having thus converted them
into bags, they had crammed them with as many ostrich
eggs as they would contain. They left about half of the
number behind concealed in the sand, for which they
returned on the following morning. While encamped
at this vley we fell in with several nests of ostriches,
and here I first ascertained a singular propensity pe-
culiar to these birds. If a person discovers the nest
and does not at once remove the eggs, on returning he
will most probably find them all smashed. This the
old birds almost invariably do, even when the intruder
has not handled the eggs or so much as ridden within
five yards of them. The nest is merely a hollow scoop-
ed in the sandy soil, generally among heath or other low
bushes ; its diameter is about seven feet ; it is believed
that two hens often lay in one nest. The hatching of
the eggs is not left, as is generally believed, to the heat
of the sun, but, on the contrary, the cock relieves the
hen in the incubation. These eggs form a consider-

E 2

106 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

able item in the Bushman's cuisine, and the shells are
converted into water-flasks, cups, and dishes. I have
often seen Bushgirls and Bakalahari women, who be-
longs to the wanderins^ Bechuana tribes of the Kalahari
desert, come down to the fountains from their remote
habitations, sometimes situated at an amazing distance,
each carrying on her back a kaross or a net- work con-
taining from twelve to fifteen ostrich egg-shells, which
had been emptied by a small aperture at one end : these
they fill with water, and cork up the hole with grass.
• A favorite method adopted by the wild Bushman for
approaching the ostrich and other varieties of game is
to clothe himself in the skin of one of these birds, in
which, taking care of the wind, he stalks about the
plain, cunningly imitating the gait and motions of the
ostrich until within range, when, with a well-directed
poisoned arrow from his tiny bow, he can generally seal
the fate of any of the ordinary varieties of game. These
insignificant-looking arrows are about two feet six inch-
es in length ; they consist of a slender reed, with a
sharp bone head, thoroughly poisoned with a composi-
tion, of which the principal ingredients are obtained
sometimes from a succulent herb, having thick leaves,
yielding a poisonous milky juice, and sometimes from
the jaws of snakes. The bow barely exceeds three feet
in length ; its string is of twisted sinews. When a
Bushman finds an ostrich's nest, he ensconces himself
in it, and there awaits the return of the old birds, by
which means he generally secures the pair. It is by
means of these little arrows that the majority of the
fine plumes are obtained which grace the heads of the
fair throughout the civilized world.

It was now the height of summer, and every day
the heat of the snn was terrific, hut there was gen-

AFFRAY WITH A PORCUPINE. 107

erally a breeze of wind, and the nights were cool. Our
vley was daily decreasing, and I saw that, unless wg
were visited by rains, it would soon be no more. On
the morning of the 22d I had rather an absurd adven-
ture with a porcupine, which cost me my pack-saddle,
the only thing of the sort I had in camp. Long befoi\3
day-break I saddled up, and rode north with my two
after-riders and a spare horse with the pack-saddle. As
day dawned I came upon a handsome old porcupine,
takine his morning airing. At first sight he reminded
me of a badger. Unwilling to discharge my rifle, as it
was probable that we were in the vicinity of oryx, I re-
solved to attempt his destruction with the thick end
of my "jambok," the porcupine, like the seal, being
easily killed with a blow on the nose. I jumped off
my hor.se, and after a short race, in which I tried him
with many turns, when he invariably doubled back be-
tween my legs, giving me the full benefit of his bris-
tling quills, I succeeded in killing him with the jambok,
but not till I had received several wounds in my hands.
My boys the while sat grinning in their saddles, en-
joying the activity of their " baas."

Having covered him with bushes, we rode on, and
shortly came upon an immense, compact herd of several
thousand "trekking" springboks, which were exceed-
ingly tame, and in the middle of them stood two oryx.
These we managed for the first time to drive in a south-
erly direction, being that in which the camp, lay ; and,
after a sharp and rather circular burst, I headed the
finer, and bowled her over. She proved to be a young
cow about three years old. Having disemboweled her,
and prepared her for the pack-saddle with a cotdeau-dC'
chasse, by splitting the brisket, passing the knife along
the gristly bones on ono side of it, and breaking the

108 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRHU.

back by a dexterous touch of the knife, where certain
ribs well known to the hunter join the vertebrae, where-
by the animal can more easily be balanced on the pack-
saddle, we succeeded with great difficulty in placing
her on " Sunday," and rode slowly for the place where
we had left the porcupine. We placed him on the
oryx, and secured him with a rheim, but we had not
proceeded far when some of the quills pricked the steed,
upon which he commenced bucking and prancing in the
most frantic manner, which of course made matters
ten times worse, causing the porcupine to beat the
devil's tattoo on his back. The gemsbok's head, also,
which, being a poor one, I had not cut off, unfortunate-
ly got adrift, and kept dangling about his haunches, the
sharp horns striking his belly at every spring. He
broke loose from Jacob, who led him, and set off across
the country at a terrific pace, eventually smashing the
pack-saddle, but still failing to disengage himself from
the gerasbok, whose hind and fore feet, being fastened
together, slipped round under his belly, impeding his
motions, and in this condition he was eventually se-
cured, being considerably lacerated about the haunches
by the horns of the oryx.

Next day Cobus and I fell in with the finest bull
oryx I had yet met, which, after a severe chase, we
rode into and slew. For some evenings previous a
large bright comet had appeared in the southwest, hav-
ing a tearing, fiery tail, which strange meteor, to the
best of my recollection, shone brightly in the clear firm-
ament for five or six weeks. We lived well, but lone-
lily. My camp abounded with every delicacy — tongues,
brains, marrow-bones, kidneys, rich soup, with the most
delicious venison in the world, &c., &c., and a constant
supply of ostrich eggs. The 2oth was cool and cloudy,

THE WATER-ROOT. 109

being the first day that the sky had been overcast oince
I had left the Thebus Flats.

In the afternoon I resolved to ride far into the oryx
country, sleep under a busli, and hunt them on the fol-
lowing morning. I accordingly left my wagons about
3 P.M., with my two after-riders and a spare horse,
and rode about fifteen miles in a northerly course, when
we secured our horses to a bush, to leeward of which
we slept. On my way thither I dismounted on an arid
plain to breathe our steeds and dig up some bulbs of
the water-root* for immediate consumption, my thirst

* This interesting root, which has doubtless saved many from dying
of thirst, is met with througliout the most parched plains of the Karroo.
It is a large oval bulb, varying from six to ten inches in diameter, and
is of an extremely juicy consistence, with rather au insipid flavor. It
is protected by a tiiin brown skin, which is easily removed with the
back of a knife. It has small, insignificant narrow leaves, with little
black dots on them, which ai'e not easily detected by an inexperienced
eye. The ground round it is so baked with the sun that it has to be
dug out with a knife. The top of the bulb is discovered about eii;ht or
nine inches from the surface of the ground, and the earth all round it
must then be carefully removed. A knowledge of this plant is invalu-
able to him whose avocations lead him into these desolate regions.
Throughout the ":vhole extent of the great Kalahari desert, and the vast
tl-acts of country adjoining thereto, au immense variety of bulbs and
roots of this juicy desci-iption succeed one another monthly, there being
hardly a season in the year at which the poor Bakalahari, provided with
a shaqi-pointed stick hardened in the fire, can not obtain a meal, being
intimately acquainted with each and all the herbs and roots which a
bountiful hand has provided for his .sustenance. There are also several
succideut plants, having thick, juicy leaves, which in like manner an-
swer the purpose of food and drink.

Above all, a species of bitter water-melon is thickly scattered over
the entire surface of theknown parts of the great Kalahari desert. These
often supply the place of food and water to the wild inhabitants of those
remote regions, and it is stated by the Bakalahari that these melons im-
prove in flavor as they penetrate further to the west. Most of these
roots are much eaten by the gemsboks, which are led by instinct to
root them out. The elephants also, apprised by their acute sense of
smell of their position, feed upon them, and whole tracts may be seen
plowed up by the tusks of these sagacious animals, in quest of them.

110 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

being very severe. While cantering along we passed
several troops of hartebecsts and ostriches, and late in
the day I observed a small troop of oryx.

On the 26th I raised my head from my saddle about
1 o'clock A.M., imagining the day was dawning, and,
having reused my after-riders, we proceeded to saddle
our horses ; but I soon perceived that the bright moon,
across which a bank of clouds was at that moment pass-
ing, had deceived me, and accordingly we off-saddled,
and in a few minutes I was once more asleep. Toward
morning, a smart shower of rain, suddenly falling on
my face, broke in abruptly on my slumbers, when we
once more arose, and, when day dawned, we saddled
up, and held a northerly course. We found the fresh
tracks of hysenas not more than fifteen yards from our
hi)rses. Within a hundred yards of our" bush we at
once discovered the spoor of an old bull gemsbok which
had fed past us during the night ; and we had proceeded
but a short distance when we discovered a herd of seven
noble oryx within a quarter of a mile of us, pasturing
in a low hollow ; upon which I directed Cobus to ride
round and "jag" them up to me, while I took up a po-
sition in front. The oryx presently charged past me ;
but Cobus had started after an old bull which I did not
see, and which he rode to a stand. To these seven
oryx I accordingly gave chase, and before the first mile
I was riding within a hundred yards of them. Here
we were joined by another fine herd of twenty-two oryx,
nearly all full grown, and carrying superb horns. On
we swept at a thrilling pace, and, after riding upward of
another mile, I pulled up to have a shot ; but " Grouse,*'
which I rode, being very restless, the herd got a long
way ahead before I could fire. I however wounded one
fine old cow, which I ascertained some hours aft'Tward.

AN UNSUCCESSFUL CHASE. Ill

Having fired, I resumed the chase, and, observing that
the finest bull of the first herd seemed distressed, I en-
deavored to cut him off from the herd, which I suc-
ceeded in doing, and, in the excitement of the moment,
determined to follow him as long as my horse could go.
Away and away we wildly flew, the oryx leading me
a cruel long chase due north, tail-on-end, from my wag-
ons, over a very heavy country, entirely undermined
by the endless burrows of the mouse-hunts. My poor
steed became at length completely knocked up, while
the oryx seemed to gain fresh speed, and increase the
distance between us. I felt that my horse could not
do it. One chance alone remained : there was still a
shot in my left barrel. I pulled up, and, vaulting from
my panting steed, with trembling hand and beating
heart I cocked my rifle and let fly at the round stern
of the retreating antelope. The ball passed within a
hw inches of his ear, and raised the dust about fifty
yards in advance of him ; and I had the mortification
of Laving to content myself with watching his lessen-
ing form as he retreated across the boundless waste.
Faint and weary, and intensely mortified at the issue
of my long-continued chase, my lips cracking, and my
tongue and throat parched with raging thirst, I threw
my bridle on my arm, and led my weary steed home-
ward, and I inwardly wished that, instead of my being
a man of fourteen stone weight, nature had formed me
of the most Liliputian dimensions. I was now a fear-
ful long way from my camp; hills that in the morning
were blue before me, were now equally blue far, far be-
hind me ; " Grouse" could scarcely walk along with
me, nor did he ever recover that morning's work.

Upon my return I observed Jacob making for me,
landing a fre^^li horse, of wjiioh I stood not a little in

112 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

need ; he stated that he had seen an oryx standing at
a distance on the plain, which bore the appearance of
being wounded. We then made for this oryx, and on
my overhauling her with my spy-glass I saw plainly
that she was badly hit. On my cantering up to her
she ran but a short distance, when she. gave in, and,
facing about, stood at bay. I foolishly approached her
without firing, and very nearly paid dearly for my folly ;
for, lowering her sharp horns, she made a desperate
rush toward me, and would inevitably have run me
through had not her strength at this moment failed her,
when she staggered forward and fell to the ground.

On the following day the waters of my vley sank
into the earth and disappeared: the water for some
days past had become very " brack," making myself
and my people very unwell.

On the 28th I had the satisfaction of beholding, for
the first time, what I had often heard the Boers allude
to — viz., a " trek-bokken," or grand migration of spring-
Doks. This was, I think, the most extraordinary and*
striking scene, as connected with beasts of the chase,
that I have ever beheld. For about two hours before
the day dawned I had been lying awake in my wagon,
istening to the grunting of the bucks within two bund-
ed yards of me, imagining that some large herd of
springboks was feeding beside my camp ; but on my
rising when it was clear, and looking about me; I be-
held the ground to the northward of my camp actually
covered with a dense living mass of springboks, march-
ing slowly and steadily along, extending from an open-
ing in a long range of hills on the west, through which
they continued pouring, like the flood of some great
river, to a ridge about a mile to the northeast, over
which they disappeared. The breadth of the ground

MIGRATION OF SPRtXGBOKS. 113

they covered might have been somewhere about half a
mile. I stood upon the fore ciiest of my wagon for
nearly two hours, lost in wonder at the novel and won-
derful scene which was passing before me, and had
some difficulty in convincing myself that it was reality
which I beheld, and not the wild and exaggerated pic-
ture of a hunter's dream. During this time their vast
legions continued streaming through the neck in the
hills in one unbroken compact phalanx. At length I
sadiled up, and rode into the middle of them with my
rifle and after-riders, and fired into the ranks until four-
teen had fallen, when I cried " Enough." We then re-
traced our steps to secure from the ever- voracious vul-
tures the venison which lay strewed along my gory
track. Having collected the springboks at different
bushes, and concealed them with brushwood, we re-
turned to camp, where I partook of coffee while my
men were inspanning.

A person anxious to kill many springboks might have
bagged thirty or forty that morning. I never, in all
my subsequent career, fell in with so dense a herd of
these antelopes, nor found them allow me to ride so near
them. Having inspanned, we proceeded with the wag-
ons to take up the fallen game, which being accom-
plished, we held for the small periodical stream beside
which the wandering Boers were encamped, that point
being in my line of march for Beer Vley. Vast and
surprising as was the herd of springboks which I had
that morning witnessed, it was infinitely surpassed by
what I beheld on the march from my vley to old Sweirs's
camp ; for, on our clearing the low range of hills through
which the springboks had been pouring, I beheld the
boundless plains, and even the hill sides which stretch-
ed away on every side of me, thickly covered, not with

114 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

" herds," bat with " one vast herd" of springboks; far
as the eye could strain the landscape was alive with
thenn, until they softened down into a dim red mass of
living creatures.

To endeavor to form any idea of the amount of ante-
lopes which I that day beheld were vain ; but I have,
nevertheless, no hesitation in stating that some hund-
reds of thousands of springboks were that morning with-
in the compass of my vision. On reaching the encamp-
ment of the Boers, I out-spanned, and set about cutting
up and salting my venison : the Boers had likewise been
out with their " roers," and shot as many as they could
carry home. Old Sweirs acknowledged that it was a
very fair " trek-bokken," but observed that it was not
many when compared with what he had seen. " You
this morning," he remarked, " behold only one flat cov-
ered with springboks, but I give you my v/ord that I
have bidden a long day's journey over a succession of
flats covered with them, as far as I could see, as thick
as sheep standing in a fold." I spent the following two
days with the Boers. Each morning and evening we
rode out and hunted the springboks, killing as many as
we could bring home. The vast armies of the spring-
boks, however, did not tarry long in that neighborhood ;
having quickly consumed every green herb, they pass-
ed away to give other districts a benefit, tlius leaving
the Boers no alternative but to strike their tents, and
remove with their flocks and herds to lands where they
might find pasture.

On tht! morning of the 31st I left this periodical
stream, whose name was " Rhinoceros Pool," and held
on for Beer Vley, which T reached in about eight hours.
Our march was a very hot one, across a desolate bar
ren country destitute of water. The country, though

BEER VLEY. 115

barren, was not, however, without game : I saw sever-
al herds of springboks, of from five hundred to two
thousand in each ; also several troops of gigantic-look-
ing ostriches, and abundance of bustard and Namaqua
partridges. I shot two springboks, and broke the fore
leg of a third. Beer Vley, at the southern end of which
1 had now encamped, is a very extensive, low-lying,
level plain ; its length might be somewhat about twen-
ty miles, and its oreadth averaging from one to two
miles. Through the entire length of this grassy vley
runs, in the rainy season, a deep stream of water, which
meanders in a very serpentine course along the center
of the plain, and, overflowing its banks, irrigates and
enriches the surrounding pasture. At that season,
however, this channel was perfectly dry, yet the plain
was covered with rich green grass. The country sur-
rounding Beer Vley is extremely desolate and sterile,
consisting of low rocky hills and undulating sazidy
plains, barely covered with dwarfish scrubby shrubs and
small karroo bushes.

On the morrow I removed my encampment about
eight or nine miles further down the vley, being oblig-
ed, from the broken and uneven nature of the ground,
to march in a semicircular course, holding along the
outside of the vley. I drew up my wagons on the plain
close to the bank of a dry channel, with a fine large
pool of running water in my vicinity. This was the
finest place that can be described to shoot springboks,
and also to select extraordinary specimens on account
of their horns, which I was anxious to do. The coun-
try, on every side, was covered with immense herds of
these antelopes, and they all seemed to have an inclina-
tion to come and feed close along the side of the water-
course beside which we lay. This channel being about

116 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ten feet deep, and extending throughout the entire lenKh
of the plain, I had only to study the wind, and could
walk up within easy shot of any herd, and select what
buck I pleased.

Here I remained for several days, enjoying brilliant
sport, both oryx and springboks giving me each day
<$xcellent shots. Here, also, I shot my first ostrich, a
fine old cock. It was a very long shot ; I gave my rifle
several feet of elevation, yet nevertheless the ball struck
him on the leg, breaking it below the knee, when he
fell and was unable to rise. The power possessed by
an ostrich in his leg can hardly be imagined. The
thigh is vry muscular, and resembles that of a horse
more than that of a bird. In the act of dying, he lashed
out and caught me a severe blow on my leg, which
laid me prostrate.

CHAPTER VII.

Leave Beer Vley — A Bushboy captured and enlisted as a Follower —
Famous Sport with Wildebeest and Quaggas from a Hunting-hole —
Water fails, and we mai'ch to the Great Orange River — Beautiful Ap-
pearance of the River — Stink Vonteyn, a famous sporting Quarter — ■
An Ostrich's Nest — Bold Mountain Ranges — The Griqua Tribe, their
Manners and Customs — An ancient Mimosa Forest — Residence of a
Bushman — Successful Chase of a noble Bull Oryx.

On the 9th I considered I had sufficiently long en-
joyed the sweets of Beer Vley ; and accordingly, the
wagons being properly packed, I inspanned in the aft-
ernoon, and trekked to the south. On the following
morning we inspanned at the dawn of day, and retraced
our steps to the Rhinoceros Pool. The heat^ continued

A NEW FOLLO^VER. 117

most oppressive, the wind still northerly. We were
infested with myriads of common flies, which proved a
constant annoyance, filling tent and wagons to such a
degree that it was impossible to sit in them. I rode
out in the morning of the 11th, accompanied by an
after-rider, and shot two springboks, which we bore to
camp secured on our horses behind our saddles by pass-
ing the buckles of the girths on each side through the
fore and hind legs of the antelopes, having first per-
formed an incision between the bone and the sinews
with the couteau-de-chasse^ according to colonial usage.
The Boers had informed me of a small fountain one
march in advance, where they recommended me to hunt
for a short time, and this place I intended to be my next
encampment. On the morrow we inspanned at earli-
est dawn, and trekked about ten miles in a northeast-
erly course across a barren, extensive plain, steering
parallel with the country frequented by the oryx. "VVe
drew up our wagons at a place where some Boers had
been encamped during the winter months. Here we
found a well with nothing but mud in it. I set to
v/ork with the spade and cleaned it out, and presently
had good water for myself and people. I dispatched
one of my Hottentots on horseback to seek for water
in advance for the horses and oxen. He shortly re-
turned, and reported another deserted Boer encamp-
ment about a mile ahead, at which there was a stronger
fountain, but considerably choked with mud. Having
breakfasted, I removed my wagons thither, and en-
camped. This fountain will be ever memorable in the
annals of my African campaign, since on the following
day I was there joined by a unique and interesting
specimen of a Bushman, who has ever since faithfully
followed my fortunes through every peril and hardship

118 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

by sea and land, and is at the moment tliat I write
brandishing in the Highlands of Scotland an imitation
of a Cape wagon-whip which he has constructed, and
callins: out with stentorian lungs the names of the oxen
composing the team which he, at a subsequent period,
drove when he alone stood by me, all my followers
having forsaken me in the far interior.

Li the afternoon I saddled up, and started with my
two after-riders and a spare horse, with the intention
of sleeping in the oryx country, and hunting next day.
We rode north through sandy plains and hollows on
which large herds of gnoos and springboks were graz-
ing. Just as the sun descended we started a iine old
bull oryx. We discovered him in a bushy hollow ;
after a sharp burst Cobus managed to turn him, when,
by heading him, I got within range, and finished him
with a couple of shots. It was now dark ; having off-
saddled our horses, we knee-haltered them, and allow-
ed them to graze for an hour; after which, having se-
cured them to a neighboring bush, we lay down to
sleep on the hard ground. My pillow was the neck
of the old bull ; the jackals sang his coronach. On the
13th I shot a fine old steinbok, and on nearing my en-
campment I discovered two different vleys containing
water. Upon reaching my camp I found a funny lit-
tle fellow in the shape of the Bushboy before alluded to
awaiting my arrival. My Hottentots had detected his
black, woolly head protruding from the reeds adjoining
the fountain, and had captured him. I presented him
with a suit of new clothes and a glass of spirits, and
we immediately became and have ever since continued
the best of friends. He informed me that, when a child;
he was taken by a party of Dutch Boers at a massacre
of his countrymen, and from these he had subsequently

MARCH TO THE GREAT ORANGE RIVER. 119

absconded on account of their cruel treatment of him
The Boers had named him "Ruyter," probably after a
certain Dutch admiral, which name he still bears.

In the afternoon 1 rode to one of the vleys, accompa-
nied by two of my men, bearing pickaxes and spades
and my bedding. We dug a shooting-hole on the usual
principle, about three feet deep and eight in diameter,
on the lee side of the largest vley. In this hole I used
to take my station every night — the jackals and hyae-
nas growling around me — and await the coming of the
dawn to get a sight of the game that came to drink.
In this manner I enjoyed excellent sport among the
wildebeests and quaggas until the 17th, when, through
want of water for my oxen, I was compelled to march
for the Great Orange River, which was the nearest
water, being distant upward of thirty miles. We in-
spanned in the afternoon, and, having performed a
march of twelve miles, holding a northeasterly course,
I outspanned for a -couple of hours to allow my oxen
to graze ; after which I again inspanned, and trekked
about twelve miles further by moonlight, when we halt-
ed till the day dawned, making fast the horses and oxen.
The country here assumed a less sterile appearance
than that which I had occupied during the last five
weeks, being ornamented with a few ancient trees,
bearing a leaf resembling that of the willow, and call-
ed by the Dutch " olean wood ;" there were also a few
dwarfish thorny trees of a species of mimosa.

On the 18th we inspanned at the dawn of day, and
after a march of about four hours, through a wild and
uninhabited country, we suddenly found ourselves on
the bank of the magnificent Orange River. This queen
of African rivers forms a leading feature in the geogra-
pliy of Southern Africa. Its length, I believe, is somS'

120 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

where about a thousand miles. It rises in the east, in
the Vitbergen mountain range, a little to the north-
ward of the latitude of Port Natal, and, flowing west-
ward, is joined by the fair Vaal River about fifty miles
below the spot where I had now arrived ; thence it con-
tinues its course westward, and falls into the South At-
lantic about five hundred miles to the north of the Cape
of Good Hope. We made the river at a place called
Davinar's Drift or ford, beside which was a comforta-
ble Dutch farm. The owner was a young Boer from
the Cape district, and had obtained his present envia-
ble position by marrying a fat old widow. Their chief
riches consisted of sheep and goats, of which they pos-
sessed enormous flocks, which were in very fine condi-
tion, the country being suitable for pasturing these an-
imals. Large herds of trekking springboks were feed-
ing in sight of the homestead. I had passed several
herds on my morning's march, and had shot three,
which were in good order.

The Boers, contrary to my expectation, reported the
river fordable, though I had been informed that it was
very large. Before venturing to cross we were occu-
pied for upward of an hour in raising the goods liable
to be damaged by water, by means of a platform con-
sisting of green willow boughs, with which we filled
the bottom of the wagons, and then replaced the cargo.
The descent on our side was extremely steep, and we
found it necessary to rheim, viz., to secure, by means
of the drag-chains, both hind wheels of each wagon.
The drift was extremely rough, and jolted the wagons
about sadly. We, however, got safely through, and,
having proceeded about half a mile up the opposite
bank, encamped. No person who has not contempla-
ted a magnificent river under similar circumstances

BEAUTIFUL APPEARANCE OF ORANGE RIVER. 121

can form an ide-a of the pleasure I felt in reaching this
oasis of the desert. For many weeks past our lot had
been cast in the arid plains of the parched karroo,
where there had often been barely sufficient water for
our cattle to drink, with cloudless skies and an intense
burning sun over our heads, and no tree nor bush of
any description whose friendly shade might shelter us
from the power of its rays. Here, " o' the sudden," a
majestic river rolled before our delighted eyes, whose
fertile banks were adorned with groves clad in everlast-
ing verdure. At the spot where we crossed, the river
reminded me of the appearance exhibited by certain
parts of the River Spey in summer during a spate.
The breadth of the Orange River, however, is in gen-
eral about three hundred yards. The whole of the
banks are ornamented with a rich fringe of weeping
willows, whose branches dip into the stream, and also
of many other trees and bushes, whose blossoms and
pleasing foliage yielded the most delicious balmy per-
fume. Numerous flocks of the feathered tribe by their
beautiful plumage and melodious notes increased the
charm of this lovely scene. The entomologist could
likewise have found abundance of interesting objects
in his department, the ground and trees swarming with
curious, if not gaudy insects. My first move after halt-
ing was to enjoy a delightful bathe ; after which, hav-
ing donned my best apparel, I recrossed the river on
horseback to visit the happy couple whose farm I have
previously described.

I found them civil and communicative, and obtained
from them a supply of vegetables, which to me were
most acceptable, having tasted nothing of that sort for
many weeks. They imformed me that about fifteen
miles in a northerly direction there was a salt-pan, in

Vol. I.— F

1!<J2 adventures in 50UTH AFRICA.

the vicinity of which I might find koodoos and sassay-
bias, in addition to the varieties of game which I had
already hunted. I walked through their garden, which,
besides vegetables in great variety, contained several
kinds of fruit-trees, such as peaches, apricots, &c. ;
these throve well, their branches being laden with
abundance of fruit. On the forenoon of the 19th, hav-
ing twice enjoyed the luxury of bathing, I saddled up,
and rode north to an extensive range of rocky hills to
seek for koodoos. Crossing an extensive plain which
intervened, I came upon an ostrich's nest containing
two eggs ; the cock was sitting on the nest, and, im-
agining that we would pass without observing him, he
allowed us to ride within sixty yards before he started.
I found the hills for which I rode of so stony and rocky
a character that it was impossible to ride through them.
They, however, bore a goodly coating of rank grass of
various kinds, and the hollows contained a few dwarf-
ish bushes. Leaving my steed in charge of my after-
rider, I traversed, with my rifle, several of these rocky
ranges, but failed to find any traces of koodoos. It
was the sort of country exactly suited for the raebok,
to which I have already alluded, and of these antelopes
I discovered three small herds. On ascending to the
summit of the highest hill in my vicinity, I command-
ed a grand panoramic view of the surrounding scenery.
An endless succession of bold mountains, of consider-
able height, extended as far as I could see in a north-
erly and easterly direction. Some of them were tab-
ular, but others of conical and pyramidal shapes tow-
ered above their fellows, their abrupt forms ctanding
forth in grand relief above the surrounding country.
Throughout all these mountain ranges plains of con-
siderable extent, more or less undulating, intervened.

SALT-PANS. 123

At 1 P.M. on the following day I inspanned and
trekked north to the salt-pan, which we reached in the
dark. The general character of the country became
richer after crossing the Orange River. The plains
were adorned with a more luxuriant coating of grass
and in greater profusion ; and the small karroo bushes
were replaced by others of fairer gr wth, .nd of a dif-
ferent variety. Most of these yielded a strong aromat-
ic perfume, but more particularly when the ground had
been refreshed by a shower of rain, on which occasions
the African wilderness diffuses a perfume so exquisite
and balmy, that no person that has not experienced its
delights can form an idea of it. Our march lay through
an extensive undulating country. We passed several
troops of hartebeests and springboks, and saw for the
first time one sassayby, a large antelope allied to the
hartebeest, and of a purple color. Mountain ranges
bounded the view on every side, and I could discover by
means of my spy-glass that strips of forests of mimosa
stretched along their bases. The salt-pan to which we
had come was of an oval shape, and about a quarter
of a mile in diameter.

It was a low basin w'hose sides sloped gently down,
but the middle was a dead level of fine sand. Upon
this sand, throughout the greater part of the pan, lay
a thick layer of good coarse salt, varying from one to
four inches in depth. Heavy rains fill the pan or basin
wath water, and, the dry season succeeding, the water
disappears, and large deposits of salt are found. These
pans or salt-licks are met with in several parts of South
Africa. Those which mainly supply the colony with
good salt are situated between Utenage and Algoa Bay;
they are of considerable extent, and yield a surprising
quantity. Ostriches and almost every variety of ante-

124 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

lope frequent these pans for the purpose of licking the
brack or salt ground, to which they are very partial.
The pan vi^hich we had reached was formerly visited
by Boers and Griquas for the purpose of obtaining salt,
but had of late years been abandoned for others yield-
ing it of a better quality. The country around was
consequently undisturbed; and, being utterly uninhab-
ited, was lonely, and as still as the grave.

On the morning of the 21st I left my wagons encamp-
ed beside the salt-pan, and, having proceeded about half
a mile in a northerly direction along a seldom-trodden
wagon-track, I discovered a fountain of excellent water,
but very strongly impregnated with saltpeter. This
fountain I afterward learned is termed by the Boers
" Cruit Vonteyn," or Powder Fountain, its waters re-
sembling the washings of a gun-barrel ; but the Gri-
quas more elegantly call it "Stink Vonteyn." At
breakfast-time I was joined by a party of ruffianly Gri-
quas, who were proceeding with a dilapidated-looking
wagon, which had no sail, to hunt hartebeests and blue
wildebeests in the vicinity of a small fountain to the
northeast, where game was reported abundant. They
were accompanied by several wild-looking, naked Bush-
men attendants, whom they had captured when young,
and domesticated. These drove their shooting-horses
loose behind the wag:;n, grazing as they went along.
I also observed a couple of milch cows with calves
among their loose oxen, a healthy luxury without which
that race of people seldom proceed on a journey. The
country occupied by the Griquas extends from Rhama,
a village on the Orange River, about thirty miles to the
east of my present position, to Griquastadt, their cap-
ital, a village situated about a hundred miles to the
northward of the junction of the Vaal with the Orange

THE GRIQUAS AND BASTARDS. 125

River. They are governed by a chief, whose name is
Waterboer. These men are of Hottentot origin, and
in general possess the distinguishing features of that
race, such as broad, flat noses, high cheek-bones, small,
ele})hant eyes, thick lips, woolly hair, and other Hot-
tentot peculiarities, which, in the present enlightened
state of society, it were superfluous to enumerate.
They are, however, so mixed up with crosses of other
tribes that every ramification of breed between Boers,
Bechuanas, IMosambiques, Corannas, Namaqua Hot-
tentots, Bushmen, &c., may be found located within
their territory. All of these intermarry. Some of
them have long black hair, while the craniums of oth-
ers, such as the Bushmen, are adorned with detached
tufts of sickly-looking crisp wool, and the issue of such
unions exhibit locks singularly varied.

Another tribe of men in every way similar to these
Griquas inhabit an extensive and fertile country im-
mediately to the east of their territory. These men
term themselves Bastards. Their chief's name is Ad-
am Kok. The name of their capital is Philipolis, a
small village about thirty miles to the north of Coles-
berg, Their country is bounded on the south by the
Great Orange River, and is about the most desirable
district in Southern Africa for farming purposes, there
being abundance of fountains throughout its whole ex-
tent capable of being led out to irrigate the land, with-
out which no gardens can be formed, nor wheat grown,
in that country. Rich pasture is abundant. Cattle
and sheep thrive and breed remarkably well ; goats also
an animal valuable to the South African settler, but for
which only certain districts are suitable, are here very
prolific. The goat in many districts is subject to a dis-
ease called by the Boers " b^-iint sickta," or burnt sick-

126 ADVEN'J'URES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ness, owing to the animals afflicted with it exhibiting
fclie appearance of having been burned. It is incura-
ble ; and if the animals infected are not speedily killed
or put out of the way, the contagion rapidly spreads,
and it is not uncommon for a farmer to lose his entire
flock with it. This sad distemper also extends itself
to the fercd naiurcB. I have sliot hartebeests, black
wildebeests, blesbucks, and springbucks, with their
bodies covered with this disease. I have known sea-
sons when the three latter animals were so generally
affected by it that the vast plains throughout which
they are found were covered with hundreds of skulls
and skeletons of those that had died therefrom. One
of the chief recommendations of the Bastards' country
is its admirable suitableness for breeding horses. Large
herds of these may be seen throughout their country
pasturing high on the mountain sides, or scattered in
troops over its grassy plains. The deadly distemper so
prevalent along the frontiers of the colony is here of
comparatively rare occurrence. In the far interior,
however, it is so virulent during five or six months of
the year that it is often impossible to save a single
horse, and through its ravages I was annually in the
habit of losing the greater part of my stud.

The chiefs of the Griquas and Bastards are in close
alliance with the English government, which protects
them from the attacks of the rebel Dutch Boers. These,
well aw^are of the excellent qualities of the Bastards'
country, are possessed with a strong desire to appropri-
ate it. The language spoken by both these tribes is
Dutch. They have, in general, embraced the Christian
religion, and several worthy missionaries have, for sev-
eral years past, devoted their lives to the improvement
of their temporal and eternal condition. The dress

COSTUME OF THE GRIQUAS AND BASTARDS. 127

worn by the men consists of home-made leathern jacket,
waistcoat, and trowsers, fcldtchoens, or home-made
shoes, a Malay handkerchief tied round the head, and
on Sundays and other great occasions a shirt and a
neckcloth. The females wear a close-fitting corset
reaching to the small of the waist, below which they
sport a petticoat like the women of other countries.
These petticoats are sometimes made of stufls of Brit-
ish manufacture, and at other times of soft leather pre-
pared by themselves. Their head-dress consists of two
handkerchiefs, one of black silk, the other of a striped
red and green color, usually termed Malay handker-
chiefs. They are very fond of beads of every size and
color, which they hang in large necklaces round their
necks. They have one description of bead peculiar to
themselves and to the tribes extending along the banks
of the Great Orange River to its junction with the sea.
This bead is formed of the root of a bush found near
the mouth of the Orange River, and possesses a sweet
and peculiar perfume. Every Griqua girl wears at
least one of these ; and no traveler who has once learned
to prize this perfume can inhale it again without its in-
advertently recalling to his memory the fine dark eyes
and fair forms of the semi-civilized nymphs frequenting
the northern bank of the Orange stream.

Their houses somewhat resemble a bee-hive or ant-
hill, consisting of boughs of trees stuck into the ground
in a circular form, and lashed down across one another
overhead so as to form a frame-work, on which they
spread large mats formed of reeds. These mats are
also used instead of wagon-sails, and arc very effectual
in resisting both sun and rain. The diameter of these
dome-shaped huts varies from ten to fifteen feet. On
changing their quarters, which they are occasionally

128 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

compelled to do on account of pasture, it will easily be
.understood that they have little difficulty in removing
their house along with them. A strong pack-ox can
travel with the whole concern placed on his back ; and
on occasions of their migration, I have seen a pack-ox
carrying not only its master's house on its back, but
also a complete set of dairy utensils, all manufactured
of wood, a couple of skin bags containing thick milk,
various cooking utensils, and, surmounting all, the guid-
wife, with one or two of her children. They are all
possessed of flocks and herds of goats, sheep, and cattle.
A description of the houses and manner of living of
these people may serve to convey an idea of all the
tribes that border on the Vaal and Orange Rivers to
the sea. They are, without exception, of an indolent
disposition, and averse from hard work of any descrip-
tion. Much of their time is spent in hunting, and
large parties annually leave their homes and proceed
with their wagons, oxen, and horses on hunting expedi-
tions into the far interior, absenting themselves for a
period of from three to four months. They are a peo-
ple remarkable for their disregard for truth, a weakness
which I regret to state I found very prevalent in South-
ern Africa. They are also great beggars, generally
commencing by soliciting for " trexels," a trexel being
a pound of tea or coffee. Knowing the gallantry of our
nation, they affirm this to be a present for a wife or
daughter, whom they represent as being poorly. If
this is granted, they continue theii importunities, suc-
cessively fancying your hat, neckcloth, or coat ; and 1
have known them on several occasions coolly request
me to exchange my continuations for their leathern in-
expressibles, which they had probably worn for a couplo
of summers.

FOREST OF MIMOSAS. 129

When this party of Griqnas came up to me, being
anxious to see as much as possible of the natives of
those parts which I traversed, I invited them to halt
and drink coffee with me, an invitation which a Griqua
was never yet known to decline. They informed me
that, in the mountain ranges to the northeast, koodoo
were to be met with, and they invited me to accompany
them on their chasse. When breakfast was finished
they sent their wagon in advance, with instructions to
wait for their arrival at the fountain, where they in-
tended to pitch their camp ; and, having saddled up, we
all set forward and rode east to hunt koodoos and harte-
beests, or any other game we might fall in with. After
riding three or four miles, on approaching the base of
the hills we entered an ancient forest of mimosas, every
tree being a study for an artist. There was also a con-
siderable under-cover of various sweet-smelling shrubs
and bushes. Here steinbok and duyker were abundant.
This venerable forest extended all around the bases of
various ranges of rocky hills, which stretched in dilTer-
ent directions through these plains. Close in, at tho
foot of one of the hills, we discovered a Bushman resi-
dence, consisting of three small huts, each about four
feet high, and about eight in diameter. They were
formed of boughs of trees, thatched over with rank
grass drawn up by the roots. The natives, as usual,
had fled on our approach, and no living creature was to
be seen. I entered each of the hats, and found lots of
well " braid" (or dressed) skins of all the wild beasts
of these parts. All their dishes were made either of
ostrich eggs or of the shells of land tortoises, and these
were ransred round the floor on one side of the hut.
Most of the ostrich egg-shells contained water.

We crossed the hills by a stony neck ; and having
F 2

130 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

proceeded some distance through several well-wooded
glades and hollows in the table-land of the hills, we
suddenly looked forth upon a noble prospect. A wide
grassy plain, covered with picturesque mimosas and
detached clumps of ever-green bushes, stretched away
from the bases of the hills on which we stood. Beyond,
the landscape was shut in by the bold and abrupt forms
of rugged mountain ranges, which were colored with
a softened blue tint. Having descended into this line
picturesque plain, we held north, riding parallel with
the hilly chain. Presently, my comrades adopting a
course which did not strike me as the most likely to
fall in with game, I chose a line of march for myself,
and, following along under the mountain chain, I soon
lost sight of them, and saw them no more that day.
On this occasion I had taken the field without any after-
rider. Having ridden about a mile further, I started a
doe koodoo, the first I had seen, and shortly after I
started another, with a young one, which I determined
to secure, there being no flesh in our camp. Having
pursued it a short distance, I came suddenly upon a
troop of koodoos, consisting of three bucks and several
does. Two of the bucks were old fellows, and carried
magnificent, wide-set, long, spiral horns. To these I
instantly directed my attention, when they at once
made, as koodoos invariably do, for the adjacent rocky
hills. Their pace was a succession of long bounds over
the thorny bushes, which sadly distressed my poor steed.
I nevertheless gained on them, and would have as-
suredly secured one, had they not reached a stony bar-
rier of sharp, hard rocks, over which they disappeared,
and where my horse could not follow. I was much
struck with the noble appearance of these two buck
koodoos, and felt very chagrined in having been nnfor-

ORYXES AND ZEBRAS. 131

tunate with them. Having lost the koodoos, I turned
my face to the south, and rode along the skirts of the
forest, in hope of falling in with my comrades.

I had ridden about a mile, when I suddenly perceived
a gallant herd of nine old oryxes cantering toward me,
all of them carrying horns of immense length and beau-
ty, surpassing any thing I had hitherto seen. They
were preceded by four beautifuHy-striped zebras, the
first I had met with, and followed by two brilliant red
hartebeests. In half a minute I was flying along within
sixty yards of the troop of oryxes, carefully studying
the horns of each, and at a loss to decide which was
the finest, they were all so very handsome. As I swept
along I deplored my folly in having taken the field
without my after-riders ; I nevertheless entertained
hopes of success, as these antelopes had evidently been
followed by the Griquas from whom I parted. They
led me a long and severe chase along the skirts of the
hill, the wind fortunately blowing right across them.
After riding hard for several miles I felt my horse very
much distressed, and was on the point of giving up the
pursuit, when I observed one old bull make a momentary
halt under a mimosa, evidently very much blown. This
gave me fresh hope ; I resolved to follow him as long
as my horse could go, and once more I gave chase with
renewed speed. I was soon riding opposite to him,
within sixty yards, with the hill on the other side, and
by a desperate effort I managed to cut him off from his
comrades, and turn his head down the wind. His fate
was now sealed, and I at once felt that he was mine.
From this moment his pace decreased, and, after an-
other half mile of sharp galloping down hill, in which
I gained upon him at every stride, I was riding within
fifteen yards of his handsome round stern. His ttnigne

no

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

was now hanging from his mouth, and long streaks of
foam streamed back on his sides. Suddenly, on round-
ing a thorny bush, he pulled up in his career, and,
facing about, stood at bay. I sprang, breathless and
worn out, from my panting steed, and with a shaking
hand sent a bullet through his shoulder, when he fell
and breathed his last.

This noble oryx carried the finest horns I had met
with, and I had, moreover, the satisfaction of knowing
that he was the finest in the herd. Having ofF-saddled
and knee-haltered my horse, I commenced cutting off
the head of the oryx, which I accomplished with some
trouble, the skin at the neck being an inch in thick-
ness. I then broke thorny branches from a neighbor-
ing mimosa, which I heaped over the carcass, to pro-
tect it from the vultures. This being accomplished, 1
returned to camp, carrying the head on the pommel of
the saddle before me, and my rifle over my shoulder.
On occasions like this, I have often felt that I should
have been the better for a third hand for the manage-
ment of my steed. At an early hour on the following
morning I left my wagons, accompanied by two after-
riders, to look for koodoos, and secure the skin of the
oryx of the preceding day. Contrary to my expecta-
tions, the hyaenas had not discovered him. The flesh,
however, owing to the heat of the weather, was un-
serviceable. I rode with my boys deployed into line
along the likely part of the old mimosa forest, hoping
to fall in with koodoos. Here I shot two fine old stein-
boks, with very good horns, and these I carefully pre-
served for my collection. By firing I lost a chance of
koodoos, as I presently discovered fresh spoor of a troop
of these antelopes, which my shots had disturbed.

Returning toward my wagons, I rode through a gorge

WILD DOGS AND KOODOOS, 103

in the mountains where I had started a pack of about
thirty wild dogs in the morning. Observing a number
of vultures sitting on the rocks about the place from
which the dogs had started, I at once knew that they
had kiiled some animal; and on riding up I discovered
the skeleton of an old doe koodoo, which they had run
into and consumed. They had not cracked the marrow-
bones, which the hyeenas would have done if left there
till after sunset. These, therefore, my Hottentots hast-
ily took possession of, the marrow of the thigh-bones of
the koodoo being by them esteemed a great delicacy.
Springing from their horses, they triumphantly seized
the skeleton; and, each selecting for himself a couple
of stones, they sat down on the ground, cracked the
marrow-bones, and greedily devoured their raw con-
tents. On reaching the wagons we found an extreme-
ly ancient and shriveled-looking Bushman, who chat-
tered just like a monkey. He signed to me that I had
visited his hut on the preceding day, but that he fear-
ed the Griquas who accompanied me. He also inti-
mated that he feared the Boers; but he knew, from the
appearance of my wagons, that they belonged to an
Englishman. He also signified to me that, when the
moon should rise, blue wildebeests would come and drink
at " Stink Vonteyn." This fact I had already ascer-
tained from personal observation, having seen their spoor
by the water. In the evening, having taken several
cups of strong coffee to keep me awake, I walked to
the fountain with four of my followers, bearing spades
and pickax, and my bedding, to watch for wild animals.
Having constructed a shooting-hole, my men retired,
and I took up my position for the night, which was
mild and lovely, with good moonlight. After watch-
ing several hours I fell asleep. About midnight my

134 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

light sleep was disturbed by the tramp of aporoachirig
wild animals. I peeped from my hole, and s£.w a herd
of about twenty shaggy blue wildebeests, or brindled
gnoos, cautiously advancing to the water. They were
preceded by a patriarchal old bull, the finest in the
herd. I fired at him, and heard the ball tell upon his
shoulder, upon which he and the whole troop galloped
off in a northerly direction, enveloped in a cloud of red
dust. Being thirsty, I then walked up to the eye of
the fountain, and, having imbibed a draught of its sul-
phurous water, in a very few minutes I was once more
asleep.

On the 23d I stood up in my hole at dawn of day,
and, having donned my old gray kilt and Badenoch
brogues, took up the spoor of the herd of brindled
gnoos. After I had proceeded a short distance I per-
ceived the head of the old bull looking at me over a
small rise on the bushy plain. The head disappeared,
and I heard a loud noise of tramping, as of an animal
endeavoring to gallop upon three legs. On gaining this
rise I again saw the handsome head, with its strangely-
hooked, fair-set horns, gazing at me from the long grass
some hundred yards in advance. He had lain down.
I held as though I intended to go past him ; but before
I neared him he sprang to his feet, and endeavored to
make off from me. Poor old bull ! I at once perceiv-
ed that it was all over with him. He was very faint
from loss of blood, and one fore leg was broken in the
shoulder. He made a tottering run of about a hund-
red yards, and again lay down, never more to rise. 1
walketl up to within eighty yards of him, and sent a
bullet through his heart. Receiving the ball, he rolled
over on his side, and expired without a groan. I then
made for my wagons, and dispatched men with a span

MARCH TO VAAL RIVER. 135

or team of oxen to slip the wildebeest to camp. He
afforded us a welcome supply of excellent flesh, as he
was in fine condition. I breakfasted on an ostrich egg,
Kleinboy having found a nest the preceding day. He
had, unfortunately, taken only eight of the eggs out of
the nest, foolishly leaving the other twelve, which on
his return he found smashed by the old birds, acoord-
inof to their usual custom.

CHAPTER Vm.

Vi e leave Stink Vonteyri and reach the Vaal River — Wait-a-bit Thorns
— Chase and kill a Buck Koodoo, and bivouac on the Ground — Co-
bus and Jacob abscond — Roan Antelope — We recross the Vaal River
— Griqua Encampment — Stink Vonteyn again — A Flight of Locusts —
A Salt-pan — Salubrious Climate — Boers attempt to carry off Ruyter
— A Cameel-dorn Forest — A Brindled Guoo bayed by Wild Dogs —
Habits of the latter.

On the evening of the 24th we inspanned, and, leav-
ing •' Stink A^onteyn," marched upon the Vaal River,
distant about twenty-five miles. Our road lay through
soft sand, rendermg the work very severe for the oxen.
About 2 A.M. on the following morning we reached the
fair Vaal River by fine moonlight. Having sent mount-
ed men through the stream to ascertain its depth, and
finding a passage practicable, I resolved at once to cross
it — a rule generally adopted by all experienced in the
country, among whom a general maxim prevails never
to defer the passage of a river if at all fordable when
they reach it. Endless are the stories related by South
African travelers, who, by failing to adopt this plan,
have been compelled to remain for weeks, and even

136 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

months, on the banks of its various rivers. The cur-
rent here being very powerful, I mounted the leaders
of my teams, and in a few minutes my long double line
of oxen was stoutly stemming the rapid stream, which
reached half way up their sides. We got both the
wagons across in safety. The water had just reached
the bottom of my cargoes, but did not damage any
thing. The bank on the further side was extremely
steep and stony, and required every ox to exert himself
to the utmost. The river here is very beautiful ; broad
and rapid streams are succeeded by long, deep, and
tranquil pools, termed by the natives "zekoe ychots,"
signifying sea-cow or hippopotamus' holes, these vast
and wondrous amphibious animals having, not many
years since, been plentiful along the entire length of
the Vaal River. The hippopotamus, however, hke the
elephant, is of a very shy and secluded disposition, and
rapidly disappears before the approach of civilization.
■ I drew up my wagons on a commanding open position
on the northern bank of the stream. The margin of
the Vaal, like the Orange River, is richly clad with
dense groves of various evergreen trees, among which
drooping willows predominate, whose long waving
fringes dip gracefully into the limpid waters as they
glide along in their seaward course. All along the
banks of both these rivers huge trunks of trees are
strewn, having been borne thither by the mighty iloods
to which they are annually subject. A short distance
above my position was a beautiful island, adorned with
trees of the richest verdure.

About 3 P.M. I rode northeast to look for roan an-
telopes, which, next to the eland, are the largest in the
world, and, being incapable of great speed, may at
times be ridden into with a good horse. I was accora-

WAIT-A-BIT THORNS KOODOOS. 137

panied by Cobus and Jacob. We found the country
covered with bushes, of which the majority were of a
most impracticable description, reminding me of a kill-
devil, an implement used in angling, they being cover-
ed with thorns on the fish-hook principle. This variety
of mimosa is waggishly termed by the Boers " vyacht
um bige," or wait-a-bit thorns, as they continually so-
licit the passing traveler not to be in a hurry; if he
disregards which request, the probability is that he
leaves a part of his shirt or trowsers in their possession.
Here and there were hills covered with sharp adamant-
ine rocks, throughout which, however, there was abund-
ance of excellent grass and fine green bushes. In
short, it was just the country to suit the taste of the
rock-loving koodoos. Having proceeded some miles,
we discovered fresh spoor of a troop of them at the foot
of one of the ranges of rocky hills. We then crossed
the ridge, still finding spoor, and the country becoming
more and more likely.

Suddenly, on raising our eyes, we saw standing on
the hill-side, within three hundred yards of us, five buck
koodoos, four of which were tearing old fellows carry-
ing extremely fine horns ; and majestic as they were,
the elevated position which they occupied imparted to
them a still more striking appearance. We galloped
toward them, on which they bounded higher up the
rocky hill, and stood for a few seconds looking at us.

I had seen many sights thrilling to a sportsman, but
few to surpass what I then beheld. I think an old
buck koodoo, when seen standing broadside on, is de-
cidedly one of the grandest-looking antelopes in the
world. They now broke into two lots, the two finest
bucks holding to the left, and to these we gave chase.
Thev led us over the most terrific "round for horses

' 38 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFPaCA.

that can be imagined. It consisted of a mass of large,
sharp adamantine pieces of rock ; even the rock-fre-
quenting koodoos themselves made bad weather of it.
Cobus, on this occasion, rode in a manner which as-
tonished me. He was mounted on " The Cow," which
steed, having in its youth led an unrestrained life, as
most Cape horses do, in the rugged mountains of the
Hantam, bounded along the hill-side in a style worthy
of a klipspringer. A fiat of considerable extent, cov-
ered with tall bushes, intervened between us and a long
range of high table-land to the northward, along the
base of which, for an extent of many miles, stretched
a dense forest of wait-a-bit thorns and mimosas. This
forest was the head-quarters of the koodoos, and for it
they nov/ held, breaking away across the above-men-
tioned flat. That forest, however, the finest koodoo
was destined never to reach. As soon as we got clear
of the rocky ground, our horses gained upon them at
every stride ; and Cobus, who was invariably far be-
fore me in every chase, was soon alongside of the finest
Here, in the dense bushes, we lost sight of his comrade
Cobus very soon prevailed on the koodoo to alter his
tack, and strike off at a tangent from his former course,
when, by taking a short cut like a greyhound running
cunning, I got within range, and with a single ball I
rolled him over in the dust. I felt more pleasure in
obtaining this fine specimen of a buck koodoo than any
thing I had yet shot in Africa. He was a first-rate
old buck, and carried a pair of ponderous, long, wide-
set spiral horns.

Owing to the nature of the ground which they fre-
quent, it is a very difficult matter to ride them down,
and they are more usually obtained by stalking or
stealing stealthily upon them. When, however, the

A PRIMITIVE COUCH, 139

hunter discovers a heavy old buck koodoo on level
ground, there is no great difficulty to ride into him,
his speed and endurance being very inferior to that of
the oryx. I could have stood contemplating him for
hours, but darkness was fast setting in ; so, having oft-
saddled and knee-haltered our horses, we carefully re-
moved the head and commenced skinning him. "The
skin of the koodoo, though thin, is extremely tough,
and is much prized by the colonists for " foreslooks,"
or lashes for ox-wagon whips. The koodoo-skin was
my mattress, my saddle was my pillow ; and supper-
less I lay down to rest, without any covering save an
old shirt and a pair of leather crackers. The excite-
ment of the thrilling sport which I had enjoyed pre-
vented my sleeping until a late hour ; and when at
length I closed my eyes, I dreamed that we were sur-
rounded by a troop of lions, and, awaking with a loud
cry, startled my men and horses.

On the 26th we arose at earliest dawn, and having
packed the trophies of the koodoo and a part of his flesh
upon my spare horse, I dispatched Jacob with him to
camp, while Cobus and I held northeast to seek for
roan antelope. I sought that day and the two follow-
ing for these antelopes, but saw no traces of them.

On the morning of the 30th I inspanned, and trekked
some miles further up the northern bank of the Vaal,
and encamped opposite where the Rict or Reed River
joins it. The stream here is extremely beautiful, be-
ing about a hundred and fifty yards in breadth, with
sloping banks richly adorned with shady evergreen
groves, and fringed with lofty reeds — a never-failing
prognosticator of a sleepless night, a virulent species
of musquito being always abundant where reeds are
met with. Several large bustards were stalking on a

140 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

small bushy flat as we drew up the wagons. I went
after these, and made a fine ofF-hand shot at an old
cock at a hundred and fifty yards. Here I lost Cobus
and Jacob, my two Hottentot after-riders. Returning
from the bustards to my wagons, where I expected to
find my breakfast waiting me, I discovered these two
worthies, whose duty it was to be preparing it, quietly
reclining under the shade of a mimosa, and enjoying
the soothing influence of their short clay pipes. Being
now beyond the pale of magisterial law, I deemed that
a little wholesome correction might prove beneficial,
which I accordingly administered. This so disgusted
these high-minded youths, that after breakfast they
embraced the opportunity of my bathing to abscond
from my service. I imagined that they had sneaked
into the bushes, and would soon return. I, however,
saw no more of them until several months after, when
I met them at Colesberg, which place they had reach-
ed, assisted by the Bastards, through whose country
they had passed. Cobus, though a first-rate after-
rider, was a great scamp and mischief-maker ; and I
learned from my remaining people that it was by his
persuasion Jacob had left me.

In the forenoon, the sun being extremely powerful,
I built for myself a bower under an old willow beside
the river. In this bower I made my bed, and might
have had a sound sleep by way of a change, had not
the musquitoes and midges assaulted me throughout
the whole night, so that I hardly closed my eyes. The
31st was a charming cool day, the sky beautifully over-
cast. Having enjoyed a good swim in the waters of
the Vaal, I breakfasted, after which I saddled up, and
rode north to seek for roan antelope. I was accompa-
nied by Carollus, the native of Mozambique, who was

TERRIFIC STORAL 141

much too heavy to act as after-rider, and by the little
Bushboy named Ruyter, who had joined me on the
plains of the karroo. This Bushboy, although he had
learned to ride among the Boers, had an indifferent seat
on horseback, and would never push his horse to over-
take any antelope if the ground were at all rough.

Having explored the country to a considerable dis-
tance, in the course of which we fell in with four sas-
sabies and a troop of hartebeests, I resolved to make for
home, as the darkening sky and distant thunder to tlie
southward threatened a heavy storm. I had not long,
however, determined on returning, when the wind,
which had been out of the nortii, suddenly veered round,
and blew hard from the south. In less than half an
hour ihe rain descended in torrents, the wind blew ex-
tremely cold, and the rain beat right in my face ; the
peals of thunder were most appalling, the most fear-
ful, I think, I had ever heard, the forked lightning
dancing' above and around me w4th such vividness as
to pain my eyes : I thought every moment would be
my last. I shifted my saddle from " Sunday" to " The
Cow," and we pricked along at a smart pace. We
were entering a thicket of thorny bushes, when a very
large gray-looking antelope stood up under one of them.
I could not see his head, but I at once knew that it
was the long-sought- for roan antelope, or bastard gems-
bok. CaroUus quickly handed me my little Moore ri-
fle, secure from the pelting storm in one of Mr. Hugh
Snowie's patent water-proof covers. The noble buck
now bounded forth, a superb old male, carrying a pair
of grand cimeter-shaped horns. He stood nearly five
feet high at the shoulder. " The Cow" knew well what
he had to do, and set off after him with right good will
over a most impracticable country. It was a sncce.s

142 T^DVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

sion of masses of adamantine rock and stone, and dense
bushes with thorns on the boat-hook principle. In a few
minutes my legs below the knee were a mass of blood,
and my shirt, my only covering, was flying in stream-
ers from my waist. The old buck at first got a little
ahead, but presently, the ground improving, I gained
upon him, and after a sharp burst of about two miles
we commenced ascending a slight acclivity, when he
suddenly faced about and stood at bay, eyeing me with
glowing eyes and a look of defiance. This was to me
a joyfal moment. The buck I had for many years
heard of and longed to meet now stood at bay within
forty yards of me. I dismounted, and, drawing my ri-
fle from its holster, sent a bullet through his shoulder,
upon which he cantered a short distance and lay down
beside a bush. On my approach he endeavored to
charge, but his strength failed him. I then gave him
a second shot in the neck, just where I always cut off
the head. On receiving it he rolled over, and,»stretch-
ing his limbs, closed his eyes upon the storm, which all
this time raged with increasing severity.

I felt extremely cold. I had lost my shirt in the chase,
and all that was left me was my shoes and leather knee-
breeches. I nevertheless took some time to inspect the
beautiful and rare antelope which I had been fortunate
enough to capture. He proved to be a first-rate spec-
imen : his horns were extremely rough and finely knot-
ted. I now proceeded to cut off his head and " gral
loched" him, all of which I accomplished before my fol-
lowers came up. They stumbled on me by chance,,
having lost sight of me in the denseness of the storm,
Having shifted my saddle from "The Cow" to "Coles-
berg," I ordered them to follow, and I rode hard for
camp, which was distant many miles. At sunset the

A TROOP OF YOUNG OSTRICHES. 143

storm ceased, and my boys arrived with tlie head. The
following day was the 1st of February. In the morn-
ing I dispatched two men to bring home the skin of the
roan antelope and a supply of the venison, which was
in high condition. Strange to say, they found the buck
all safe, having escaped the attacks both of liysenas and
vultures.

My meal-bag was reported almost empty ; and this
being a dangerous country for the horse-sickness, a
distemper which rages during February, March, and
April, I resolved to recross the Vaal River, and bend
my course for the land of blesboks, a large and beau
tiful violet-colored antelope, which is found, together
with black wildebeests and springboks, in countless
thousands on the vast green plains of short sour grass
situated about a hundred and fifty miles to the east-
ward of my then position. My purpose was to amuse
myself hunting in these parts until the beginning of
April, when the most dangerous period of the horse-sick-
ness would be past, and after that to revisit Colesberg,
where I intended to store the specimens of natural his
tory which I had already accumulated, and, having re-
fitted and laid in a store of supplies, to start for the re-
mote districts of the far interior in quest of elephant,
rhinoceros, giraffe, buffalo, eland, and other varieties of
large and interesting game to be found in those seclud-
ed regions. Before removing from my present en-
campment I had another hard day among the sharp
rocks and wait-a-bit thorns to the northward of the
Vaal, when I Idl in with a troop of about twelve young
ostriches, which were not much larger than Guinea-
fowls. I was amused to see the mother endeavor to
lead us away exactly like a wild duck, spreading out
and drooping her wings, and throwing herself down on

144 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

the [ground before us as if wounded, while the cock bird
cunningly led the brood away in an opposite direction.
On the afternoon of the 3d of February we inspan-
ned, and retraced our steps to the drift, which we
reached in the d'ark : I, however, crossed the river, and
encamped on the opposite bank. On the following day
[ marched to a small kraal of Griquas, in hope of ob-
taining some corn. Our march was a heavy one, through
a sandy country adorned in parts with very ancient-look-
ing picturesque trees of the " cameel-dorn" species.
From the site of these kraals I obtained a distant view
of both the Vaal and Orange River. I found these Gri-
quas very importunate, flocking round my wagons and
begging for tea, coffee, tobacco, gunpowder, &c. Some
if these ruffians formed a plot to make me give up the
Bushboy who had entered my service, but, on my
threatening them with the vengeance of government
if they interfered with any men in my service, they
relinquished the idea. On the morrow it was ascer-
tained that the oxen, having missed the fountain, had
wandered very far in search of water : they were re-
covered more than half way back to the Vaal River.
1 purchased eight "emirs" or measures of wheat from
one of the Griquas, and also a couple of goats for slaugh-
ter. In the afternoon we inspanned, and trekked to
" Stink Vonteyn," already mentioned. On the march
I shot a large hawk, a species of buzzard, with ball,
and also a steinbok, at a hundred and sixty yards. On
the following morning the Namaqua partridges, which
every morning and evening visit the vleys and fount-
ains in large coveys for the purpose of drinking, mus-
tered in great force at " Stink Vonteyn." Of these
birds I have met with three varieties. They are abund-
ant wherever extensive open sandy districts occur, as

FLIGHT OF LOCUSTS. 145

far as I have penetrated into Southern Africa. By
watching the flight of these birds in the mornings and
evenings 1 have discovered the fountains in the desert,
when unassisted and forsaken by the natives. As they
fly they repeatedly utter a soft, melodious cry, resem-
bling the words " pretty, pretty dear." They are ex-
cellent eating, and a person so disposed, by mounting
a pair of shot-barrels, might, any morning or evening,
secure a large bag of them.

In the forenoon I observed the base of an extensive
range of hills to the northward, concealed for miles, as
if by thick clouds or mist, which steadily advanced to-
ward us, holding a southerly course. This was a flight
of countless myriads of locusts, in my opinion one of
the most remarkable phenomena that a traveler can be-
hold. They resembled very much a fall of snow, when
it gently descends in large light flakes. The sound
caused by their wings reminded me of the rustling of
the summer breeze among the trees of the forest. In
the afternoon I hunted in a mountain range to the
westward of the salt-pan, named by the Boers and Bas-
tards " Saut-pan's berg;" and in the evening I visited
the old Bushman's hut, whom I found at home with a
litter of very small Bush-children: these he signified
to me were his grandchildren. I lay down to sleep be-
neath an aged mimosa in their vicinity, and about mid-
night the wind set in from off the Southern Ocean, and,
having no covering but my shirt, I felt it piercingly cold,
Sleep was out of the question, and I was right glad
when I heard the sparrow's chirp announcing the dawn
of day. Notwithstanding these nocturnal exposures,
my health since leaving my regiment had been perfect
— not a twitch of rheumatism, a complaint from which
I suffered while in India, although I had ceased to wear

Vol. I.— a

146 ADVENTURE'S IN SOUTH AFRICA.

flannel, which I had previously done for years: I can,
therefore, confidently recommend the country to those
that suffer from that most grievous affliction. Colds,
coughs, and sore throats are of rare occurrence ; and
scientific persons, in whose opinions I can place the ut-
most reliance, have informed me that the frontier dis-
tricts of the colony, and still more the remoter dis-
tricts to the northward, are the finest in the world for
persons laboring under any pulmonary complaint. At
times I felt very lonely when I returned to camp for
want of some old companion to welcome me, and dis-
cuss with me, in the evenings, over my gipsy fire, the
adventures and incidents of the day : in general, how-
ever, when the sport was good, I enjoyed excellent
spirits.

On reaching my wagons I breakfasted, after which
wo inspanned and trekked east along a very rarely
trodden old wagon-track, making for a small ^untain
situated on the borders of a large pan, which lay in a
broad hollow in the center of an extensive open tract
of undulating country. Here the entire country was
of a soft, sandy character, and utterly uninhabited ;
the plains were covered with long, rough heath and
other low scrubby bushes, intermingled with much
sweet grass. Ranges of hills of goodly height and con-
siderable extent intersected the plains, and bounded the
view at various distances on every side. Ancient for-
ests of picturesque and venerable mimosas, interspersed
with high, gray-leaved bushes, detached and in groups,
stretched along the bases of these mountain-ranges,
their breadth extending about a mile into the surround-
ing extensive campaign country. We reached the small
fountain in the dark, our road leading through the salt-
pan, where we halted for an hour for the purpose of

ATTEMPT TO CARRY OFF RUYTER. 147

collecting salt. We had little difficulty in filling two
large sacks with it.

The next day, as we crossed a vast plain, a flight of
locusts passed over our heads during upward of half an
hour, flying so thick as to darken the sun ; they reached
in dense clouds as far as we could see, and maintained
an elevation of from six to three or four hundred feet
above the level of the plain. Woe to the vegetation of
the country on which they alight ! In the afternoon
two mounted Boers were observed leading a spare horse
and following on our track. While they were yet afar
oft', Ruyter, the little Bushboy, recognized them as old
acquaintances, and pronounced one of them to be the
brother of the master from whom he had absconded. I
at once guessed the object of their visit, and was right
in my conjecture. By some clew they had ascertained
that the boy was in my possession, and were now fol-
lowing me in the hope of recovering him. According-
ly, when they rode up and requested me to halt the
wagons for a conference, I received them very gruffly,
and replied that, the water being distant, I had no time
for conferences until I should arrive there. Having re-
peated their request, and finding that I paid them no
regard, they took up a position in the rear, and followed
my wagons to the halting-place. Here they began to
pester me with a long yarn concerning their claims to
the Bushboy, when I stopped their pratings by ordering
them to drop the subject, promising them a hearing in
the morning ; and having directed my people to place
refreshments before the Boers, I wished them good-
night, and retired.

On the following morning they renewed their impor-
tunities, stating many things which I knew to be false;
upon which Unformed them that the nation to whioli

148 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

I belonged was averse to slavery, and that I could not
think of acceding to their demand. They then saddled
up, and departed as wise as they had come, telling me
that the matter should not rest there. The little Bush-
man seemed highly amused with the whole proceeding;
and as the Boers mounted their steeds and rode away,
leading the spare horse, he shrieked with delight, ex-
claiming in Low Dutch, " Yah, yilia forfluxta Boera,
yilla had de chadachta me te chra, mar ik heb noo a
ghroote baas, dat sail yilla neuk ;" signifying " Yes,
you worthless Boers, you thought to get hold of me ;
but I have now a great master, who will serve you out."
The Boers having departed, and my oxen and horses
having effaced all original traces around the fountain,
I described a circle a little distance from it to ascertain
if it was much frequented. This is the manner in
which spoor should at all times be sought for. - I found
a tolerable abundance of the spoor of various wild ani-
mals, and I therefore resolved to remain here some days
for the purpose of hunting. I removed my wagons to
an adjacent hollow, where I drew them up entirely con-
cealed from view, and then constructed a shooting-hole
beside the fountain, where for several mornings, at early
dawn, I shot hartebeests as they came to drink.

On the morning of the 12th I rode northeast with at-
tendants, and after proceeding several miles through an
open country we entered a beautiful forest of camcel-
dorn trees, and rode along beneath a range of steep
rocky hills. The country gave me the idea of extreme
antiquity, where the hand of man had wrought no
change since the Creation. In a finely-wooded broad
valley or opening among the hills, we fell in with a
magnificent herd of about sixty blue wildebeests. As
they cantered across the grassy sward, tossing their

A GNOO BAYED BY \VILD DOGS. 149

fierce-looking, ponderous heads, their shaggy manes
and long, black, bushy tails streaming in the breeze,
they presented an appearance at once striking and im-
posing ; and to a stranger they conveyed rather the idea
of buffaloes than any thing belonging to the antelope
tribe, to which, indeed, wildebeests, both black and
white, are but remotely allied, notwithstanding the
classification of naturalists.

About midnight on the IGth, weary with tossing on
my restless couch, I arose, and taking my two-grooved
rifle, a pillow, and a blanket, I held for my shooting-
hole beside the fountain. The remainder of the night
was very cool, with a southerly breeze. At dawn I
looked from my hole, and, seeing no game approaching,
I rolled my blanket tight around me and tried to sleep.
In this manner I had lain for about half an hour, when
I was suddenly startled by a large, heavy animal gal-
loping past within six feet of me. I at once knew that
it must be either some beast which had been coming to
drink and had got my wind, or one hunted, which, ac-
cording to the custom of deer and the larger antelopes,
had rushed for refuge to the water in its distress. In
the latter conjecture I was right ; for, on cautiously
peeping through the stones which surrounded my hole,
I had the plea.sure to behold a fine bull brindled gnoo
dash into the waters of the fountain within forty yards
of me, and stand at bay, followed by four tearing, fierce-
looking wild dogs. All the four had their heads and
shoulders covered with blood, and looked savage in the
extreme. They seemed quite confident of success, and
came leisurely up to the bull, passing within a few
yards of me, their eyes glistening with ferocious glee.

My anxiety to possess this fine old bull, and also a
specimen of the wild dog, prevented my waiting to see

150 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

more of the fan. I deliberated for a few seconds \\liethei
T would shoot the ball first or one of the hounds, and
ended by shooting the gnoo and the largest hound right
and left. The bull, on receiving the ball, bounded out
of the fountain ; but, suddenly wheeling about, he re-
entered it, and, staggering violently for a moment, sub-
sided in its waters. The hound got the bullet through
his heart, and, springing forward from his comrades,
instantly measured his length upon the gravel. I then
quickly reloaded my rifle, lying on my side ; a proceed-
ing which, I may inform those who have not yet tried
it, is rather difficult to accomplish. While 1 was thus
occupied the three remaining hounds reluctantly with-
drew, and described a semicircle to leeward of me for
the purpose of obtaining my wind and more correctly
ascertaining^ the cause of their discomfitui'e. Havins;
loaded, I reopened my fire, and wounded another, when-
Ihey all made off.

I could not help feeling very reluctant to fire at the
jolly hounds. The whole affair reminded me so very
forcibly of many gallant courses I had enjoyed in the
Scottish deer-forests with my own noble deer-hounds,
that I could not divest myself of the idea that those
now before me deserved a better recompense for the
masterly manner in which they were pursuing their
desperate game. One hound, in particular, bore a
strong expres.sion of dear old Factor in his face, a trusty
stag-hound bred by myself, whose deeds, though not re-
nowned in verse like Ossian's Oscar and Luath, were
perhaps little inferior either in speed or prowess to those
lamed in ancient song.*

* The wild dogs, or " wilde honden," as they ai'e termed by the
Dutch Boers, are still abundant in the precincts of the Cape colony, and
are met with in great numbers throughout the interior. These animals

HABITS OF THE WILD DOG. 151

Having summoned my men, and with consiberable
difficulty dragged the ponderous carcass of the old bull

invariably hunt together in large organized packs, varying in number
from ten to sixty, and by their extraordinary powers of endurance, and
mode of mutual assistance, they are enabled to run into the swii'test, or
overcome the largest and most powerful antelope. I have never heard
of their attacking the buffalo, and I believe that the animal pursued iu
the present instance is the largest to which they give battle. Their
pace is a long, never-tiring galloj), and in the chaso they relieve one
another, the leading hounds falling to the rear when fatigued, when
others, who have been husbanding their strength, come up and relieve
them. Having succeeded in bringing their quarry to bay, they all sur-
round him, and he is immediately dragged to the ground, and in a few
minutes torn to pieces and consumed. They are of a bold and daring dis-
position, and do not entertain much fear of man, evincing less concern
on his approach than any other carnivorous animal with which T am ac-
quainted. On disturbing a pack, they trot leisurely along before the
intruder, repeatedly halting and looking back at him. The females
bring forth their young in large holes, in desolate open plains. These
burrows are connected with one another under ground. When a ti-oop
of wild dogs frequenting these holes observe a man approaching, they
do not, as might be supposed, take shelter in the holes, but, rather
trusting to their speed, they rush forth, even though the intrader should
be close upon them, and retreat across the plain, the young ones, unless
very weak, accompanying them. The devastation occasioned by them
among the flocks of the pastoral Dutch Boers is inconceivable. It con-
stantly happens, that when the careless shepherds leave their charge in
quest of honey or other amusement, a pack of these marauders comes
across the defenseless flock. A sanguinary massaci-e in such cases iti
variably ensues, and incredible numbers of sheep are killed and wound-
ed. The voracious pack, not content with killing as many as they can
eat, follow resolutely on, tearing and mangling all that come within
their reach. Their voice consists of three different kinds of cry, each
being used on special occasions. One of these cries is a sharp, angry
bark, usually uttered when they suddenly behold an object which they
can not make out. Another resembles a number of monkeys chattering
together, or men conversing while their teeth are chattering violently
from cold. This ciy is emitted at night when large numbers of them
ai'c ti)gether, and they are excited by any particular occurrence, such
as being barked at by domestic dogs. The third cry, and the one most
commonly uttered by them, is a sort of i-allying note to bring the vari-
ous members of the pack together when they have been scattered in
following several individuals of a troop of antelopes. It is u peculiarly
Boft, melodious ciy, yet, nevertheless, it may be distinguished at a great

152 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

out of the water, we found that he had been cruelly
lacerated by the hounds. It appeared to me that they
had endeavored to hamstring hhn. His hind legs,
haunches, and belly were dreadfully torn ; he had lost
half his tail, and was otherwise mutilated. Poor old
bull ! I could not help commiserating his fate. It is
melancholy to reflect that, in accordance with the laws
of nature, such scenes of pain must ever be occurring ;
one species, whether inhabiting earth, air, or ocean,
being produced to become the prey of another. At
night I watched the water, with fairish moonlight, and
shot a large spotted hysena.

I continued here hunting hartebeests until the 21st,
when I inspanned at an early hour, and trekked due
east till sundown, when I halted near a small fountain
of fine water, having performed a march of about twen-
ty-five miles. Our road lay through a wild, uninhab-
ited country, producing sweet grass in abundance, but
destitute of water. On the morning of the 22d, hav-
ing breakfasted, I rode southwest, with after-riders,
and found the game abundant, but wild and shy, hav-
ing been recently hunted by Boers.

distance. It very much resembles the second note uttered by the
cuckoo which visits our islands during the summer months, and, when
heard in a calm morning echoing tlu'ough the distant woodlands, it has
a very pleasing effect. They treat all domestic dogs, however large
and fierce, with the utmost scorn, waiting to receive their attack, and
then, clannishly assisting one another, they generally rend them ia
pieces. The domestic dogs most cordially reciprocate their animosity,
and abhor their very voices, at what distance soever heard, even mora
than that of the lion, starting to tlieir feet, and angrily barking for hours.
This interesting though desti'uctive animal seems to form the connect"
ing link between the wolf and the hyaena.

THE RIET RIVER. 153

CHAPTER IX.

Th'j Riet River — Nomade Boer Encampments — Surly Reieption at a
Boer's Farm — Lions slain by tlie Boers — Cowardice of the Boers in
Lion Hunting — Rumors of War between the Boers and Griquas—
The Mirage of the Plains — Habits of the Blesbok — A knowing old
. Hog — A Snake under my Pillow — A Troop of Wild Dogs come upon
me at Night in my Shooting-hole — The Roar of Lions — Curious Facts
concerning them.

We inspanned before the dawn of day on the 23d of
February, and after steering east and by north for a
distance of about twelve miles, we found ourselves on
the southern bank of the Riet River, where we out-
spanned. Along the banks, both above and below me,
several families of the nomade Boers were encamped
with their tents and wagons. Their overgrown flocks
and herds were grazing on the plains and grassy hill
sides around. Five of these Boers presently came up
to my wagons, and drank coffee with me. They seem-
ed much amused with the details of my sporting ad-
ventures, which I was now able to give them in broken
Dutch, in which language, from lately hearing no other
spoken, I was daily becoming more proficient. On
learning that I had not as yet enjoyed any blesbok
shooting, they said they were certain I should be de-
lighted with the sport. The borders of the country in-
habited by the blesboks they stated to be about four
days distant in a northeasterly direction, and that, on
reaching it, I should fall in with those antelopes in
countless herds, along with black wildebeest, spring-
bok, and ether game. The Boers supplied me liberally

G 2

154 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

with milk. In the height of the day we all bathed in
the Riet River, and in the afternoon I continued my
journey eastward. The breadth of the Riet River "Sere
is about thirty yards. It rises about one hundred miles
to the eastward, and, flowing westerly, joins the Vaal
River opposite Campbellsdorp. ^

On the third day after making the Riet River we
crossed below a very picturesque waterfall, and resumed
our march along its northern bank. The day was cool
and pleasant, the sky overcast ; the hot days of sum-
mer were now past, and the weather was most enjoy-
able. Continuing my march in the afternoon, I left
the Riet River on my right, and held on through an
open, sandy country richly covered with abundance of
sweet grass, and intersected by mountain ranges of
very considerable extent. At sunset I encamped be-
side a Boer's farm, who received me hospitably, and
asked me to dine with him. During dinner, according
to the custom of the Boers, he pestered me with a thou-
sand questions, such as. What was my nation ? Where
was I from ? Where was I bound for ? Why I trav-
eled about alone in such a manner ? Where was my
farm ? Were my father and mother living ? How
many brothers and sisters I had ? Was I married ?
A.nd had I never been married in the whole course of
my life ? On my replying in the negative to this last
question, the Boer seemed petrified with astonishment,
and the family gazed at one another in utter amaze-
ment. On the farm was a fine specimen of the Afri-
can wild boar, which was perfectly tame, and took veg-
etables from the hands of the children. On the follow-
ing day I performed two long marches, and again halt-
ed on the farm of a Boer, whose name was Potcheter.
I found this man particularly bitter against the gov-

A SURLY RECEPTION. 155

ernrnent. On my going up to him to inquire where I
should oatspan, he was very surly, and would scarcely
deign to speak to me. Of this, however, I took no no-
tice, but took the liberty of informing him that when
I had outspanned I should come up to the house and
make the acquaintance of Mrs. Potcheter. As I wheel-
ed about and walked away from him, I overheard him
remark to three other grufl-looking Boers who stood
beside him that I was " a verdomd Englishman."

Notwithstanding this cold reception, on returning to
the house I soon managed to get into their good graces,
and took dinner with them. During dinner the con-
versation turned on politics, when a keen discussion
arose concerning the present administration of the gov-
ernment. This being at all times a disagreeable sub-
ject, I thought it time to change the conversation to
sporting subjects, in which the Boers always take in-
tense interest. I accordingly mentioned to one of the
young ladies who sat next to me that I had iii my
wagon a large work containing engravings of all the
most interesting animals in the world, on which she
instantly expressed a strong desire to see it. I then
produced my " Museum of Animated Nature," which
never failed to enchant the Boers, and it put an end to
all political discussions, shooting and wild animals en-
grossing the conversation during the rest of the even-
ing. These Boers informed me that I should see herds
of blesboks on the following day. They also stated
that lions frequented the bushy mountain ranges which
look down upon the plains frequented by the blesboks,
and they mentioned that a considerable party of Boers
had mustered that day upon a farm a few miles in ad-
vance, to hunt a troop of lions which had killed some
horses on the preceding day. From the conversation

156

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

which I overheard among themselves, I learned that a
war was brewing between the emigrant Boers on the
northern bank of the Orange River, and the Bastard
and Griqua tribes. The rumor of this Vv^ar threw my
followers, who also heard the news from the servants
of the Boers, mto a state of great alarm. I resolved;
however, that my movements should not be influenced
by these reports.

At an early hour on the following morning a young
Boer rode up to the farm, and informed us that the
party who had been lion-hunting on the preceding day
had bagged two fuie lions, a male and female. As the
farm lay directly in my line of march, I mounted Coles-
berg, and, directing my followers to follovN^ with the
wagons, I rode hard for the farm, to inspect the noble
game. On my way thither I met a horse-wagon, drawn
by eight horses, containing some of the party who had
mustered for the battue. Arriving on the farm, I found
the Hon and lioness laid out on the grass in front of the
house, and the Boers' Hottentots busy skinning them.
Both lions were riddled with balls, and their heads
were shot all to pieces. This is generally the way in
which the Boers serve their lions after they have kill-
ed them, fearing to approach, though dead, until they
have expended a further supply of ammunition. A Hot-
tentot is then ordered to approach and throw a stone at
him ; the Boers then ask if he is dead, and on the Hot-
tentot replying, " Like so, baas," he is ordered to pull
him by the tail before the hunters will venture to ap-
proach My little Bushman informed me that he had
often been out lion-hunting during his captivity with
the Boers. On one of these occasions, a Boer, who had
dismounted from, his horse to fire, was dashed to the
ground by the lion before he coujd regain his saddle

LION HUNTING BY BOERS. 157

The brute, however, did not injure him, but merely
stood over him, lasliing his taiJ, and growling at the
rest of the party, who had galloped to a distance in the
utmost consternation, and, instead of approaching with-
in easy shot of the lion, to the rescue**ef their comrade,
opened their fire upon him from a great distance, the
consequence of which sportsman-like proceeding was,
that they missed the lion, and shot their comrade dead
on the spot. The lion presently retreated, and, none
daring to follow him, he escaped.

The Boer on whose farm I had arrived was a tall,
powerful, manly-looking fellow. He informed me that
he was a Dane. He was in great distress about two
favorite dogs which the lions had killed during the at-
tack on the preceding day. Three more were badly
wounded, and their recovery seemed doubtful. He con-
firmed the reports of an impending war between the
Boers and Griquas, which I had previously heard, and
he asked me if I was not afraid, in times of war, to re-
main hunting, with only a few followers, in the wil-
derness. Being anxious to commence my operations
against the blesboks, I resumed my march shortly after
mid-day. On taking leave, the Dane presented me with
some meal and a couple of loaves of bread, a luxury to
which I had been an utter stranger for many months,
and which, together with vegetables, I may further add,
I hardly ever tasted during the five hunting expeditions
which I performed in Southern Africa. Another short
march in a northeasterly direction brought me to the
western borders of the boundless regions inhabited by
the blesboks. I drew up my wagons beside a vley of
rain water, in open country, the plains before me be-
ing adorned with herds of black wildebeest, springbok,
and blesbok.

158

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

I had now reached the borders of a country dilFering
entirely from any I had hitherto seen. The sweet
grass, which had heretofore been so abundant, became
very scarce, being succeeded by short, crisp, sour pas-
turage, which my cattle and horses refused to eat. A
supply of forage for these, however, could generally be
obtained by driving them to the stony hillocks and rocky
mountain ranges which at various distances from one
another intersected the champaign country. The plains
were firm and hard, and admirably suited for riding ;
they were pastured short and bare by the endless herds
of game which from time immemorial had held posses-
sion of these extensive domains. Although intersected
occasionally by mountain ranges, these plains often ex-
tend to amazing distances, without any landmark to
break the monotony of their boundless and ocean-like
expanse. At other times the eye is relieved by one or
more abrupt pyramidal or cone-shaped hills, which serve
as a landmark to the hunter, whereby to regain his
encampment after the excitement of the chase.

When the sun is powerful, which it is during the
greater part of the year, an enduring mirage dances
on the plain wherever the hunter turns his bewildered
eyes. This mirage restricts the range of vision to a
very moderate distance, and is very prejudicial to cor-
rect rifle-shooting. The effect produced by this optical
illusion is remarkable : hills and herds of game often
appear as if suspended in mid air. Dry and sun-baked
vleys, or pans covered with a crystallized efflorescence,
constantly delude the thirsty traveler with the prospect
of water ; and more than once I have ridden toward a
couple of springboks, magnified a hundred-fold, which
I had mistaken for the white tilts of ray wagons. This
vast tract of bare, sour pasturage, which is peculiarly

HABITAT OF THE BLESBOK 159

the inheritance of the black wildebeest, the springbok,
and the blesbok, but more particularly of the latter,
occupies a central position, as it were, in Southern
Africa. On the west of my present encampment, as far
as the shores of the South Atlantic Ocean, no blesboks are
to be found. Neither do they extend to the northward
of the latitude of the River Molopo, in 25° 30', of which
I shall at a future period make mention, although their
herds frequent the plains along its southern bank. To
the south a few small herds are still to be found with-
in the colony, but their head-quarters are to the north-
ward of the Orange River, whence they extend in an
easterly direction throughout all the vast plains situa-
ted to the west of the Witbergen range.

The blesbok, in his manners and habits, very much
resembles the springbok, which, however, it greatly ex-
ceeds in size, being as large as an English fallow-deer.
It is one of the true antelopes, and all its movements
and paces partake of the grace and elegance peculiar
to that species. Its color is similar to that of the sas-
sayby, its skin being beautifully painted with every
shade of purple, violet, and brown. Its belly is of the
purest white, and a broad white band, or " blaze,"
adorns the entire length of its face. Blesboks differ
from springboks in the determined and invariable man-
ner in which they scour the plains, right in the wind's
eye, and also in the manner in which they carry their
noses close along the ground. Throughout tiie greater
part of the year they are very wary and difficult of ap-
proach, but more especially when the does have young
ones. At that season, when one herd is disturbed, and
takes away up the wind, every other herd in view fol-
lows them ; and the alarm extending for miles and miles
down the wind, to endless herds br^yond the visi'in of

160 ADVENTURES IN SOUIK AFRICA.

the hunter, a continued stream of blesboks may often
be seen scouring up wind for upward of an hour, and
covering the landscape as far as the eye can see. The
springboks, which in equal numbers frequent the same
ground, do not, in general, adopt the same decided course
as the blesboks, but take away in every direction across
the plains, sometimes with flying bounds, beautifully
exhibiting the long, snowy-white hair with which their
backs are adorned, and at others walking slowly and
carelessly out of the hunter's way, scarcely deigning
to look at him, with an air of perfect independence, as
if aware of their own matchless speed.

The black wildebeests, which also thiolcly cover the
entire length and breadth of the*blesbok country, in
herds averaging from twenty to fifty, have no regular
course, like the blesboks. Unless driven by a large
field of hunters, they do not leave their ground, although
disturbed. Wheeling about in endless circles, and per-
forming the most extraordinary variety of intricate evo-
lutions, the shaggy herds of these eccentric and fierce-
looking animals are forever capering and gamboling
round the hunter on every side. While he is riding
hard to obtain a family shot of a herd in front of him,
other herds are charging down wind on his right and
left, and, having described a number of circular move-
ments, they take up positions upon the very ground
•across which the hunter rode only a few minutes before.

Singly, and in small troops of four or five individ-
uals, the old bull wildebeests may be seen stationed at
intervals throughout the plains, standing motionless
during a whole forenoon, coolly watching with a philo-
sophic eye the movements of the other game, eternally
uttering a loud snorting noise, and also a short, sharp
cry which is peculiar to them. When the hunter ap-

BLESBOK HUNTING. IGl

proaches these old bulls, they commence whisking their
long white tails in a most eccentric manner ; then
springing suddenly into the air, they begin prancing
and capering, and pursue each other in circles at their
utmost speed. Suddenly they all pull up together to
overhaul the intruder, when two of the bulls will often
commence fighting in the most violent manner, drop-
ping on their knees at every shock ; then quickly wheel-
ing about, they kick up their heels, whirl their tails
with a fantastic flourish, and scour across the plain en-
veloped in a cloud of dust.

Throughout the greater part of the plains frequented
by blesboks, numbers of the sun-baked hills or mounds
of clay formed by the white ants occur. The average
height of the ant-hills, in these districts, is from two to
three feet. They are generally distant from one an-
other from one to three hundred yards, being more or
less thickly placed in different parts. These ant-hills
are of the greatest service to the hunter, enabling him
with facility to conceal himself on the otherwise open
plain. By means of them I was enabled to hide, and
select out of the herds the bucks and bulls carrying the
finest heads, for my collection.

On the 28th, having breakfasted, I rode forth with
two after-riders to try for blesboks, and took up posi-
tions on the plain, lying flat on my breast behind ant-
hills, while my after-riders, one of whom led my horse,
endeavored to move them toward me. We found the
blesboks abundant, but extremely wary. I wounded
several, but did not bag one. I, however, shot two
springboks, which were fat, and whose flesh we stood
much in need of. I had several chances of wildebeests,
but I had resolved not to fire at them.

The following day was the 1st of March. After an

162 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

early breakfast I again took the field, with my after-
riders and a spare horse. There was thunder and light-
ning on all sides, and I expected the day would set in
wet: it all passed over, however, with a few showers,
and the weather was delightfully cool. I lay behind
ant-hills, while my men, extending to the right and left,
endeavored to drive the game toward me. Late in the
day I bagged a fine old blesbolc : it was a family shot,
running at two hundred yards. I also shot a spring-
bok, and mortally wounded another ; both were very
long shots.

The blesbok is one of the finest antelopes in the
world, and is allowed to be the swiftest buck in Africa.
He, nevertheless, attains very high condition, and at
this period v/as exceedingly fat. I was surprised and
delighted, with the exquisite manner in which his beau-
tiful colors are blended together. Nothing can exceed
the beauty of this animal. Like most other African
antelopes, his skin emitted a most delicious and power-
ful perfume of flowers and sweet-smelling herbs. A
secretion issues from between his hoofs which has like-
wise a pleasing perfume.

The 3d was a charmingly cool day. At an early
hour in the morning I was visited by a party of Boers,
some of whom I had previously met. They were pro-
ceeding to hunt wildebeest and blesbok, and were mount-
ed, on mares, each of which was followed by a foal.
They requested me to join them in their "jag," but I
excused myself, preferring to hunt alone. Having par-
taken largely of my coffee, the Boers mounted. their
mares and departed, holding a southeasterly course.
As soon as they were out of sight I saddled up and rode
north, with two after-riders, to try for blesboks. I found
the country extremely pleasant to ride on. It resem-

A HERD OF WILD HOGS. 163

bled a well-kept lawn. Troops of graceful springbok
and blesbok were to be seen cantering right and left,
and large herds of black wildebeests in every direction,
now charging and capering, and now reconnoitering.
I took up positions on the plain behind the ant-hills. In
the forenoon I wounded one blesbok, and late in the day
I made a fine double shot, knocking over two old bles-
boks right and left, at a hundred and a hundred and
fifty yards. I also shot one springbok. While "gral-
loching" a buck, one of the Boers rode up to me to say
that his brother had wounded a wildebeest which stood
at bay on the plain, and his ammunition being expend-
ed, he would feel obliged by ray coming to his assist-
ance. I accordingly accompanied the Boer to where
his brother stood sentry over the wounded bull, when I
lent him my rifle, with which he finished his bull with
a bullet in the forehead.

On the following day I hunted to the northeast of
my camp, and made a fine shot at a blesbok, knock-
ing him over at a hundred and fifty yards. Returning
to camp in a low-lying grassy vley, I started a herd of
" vlacke varckc," or wild hogs. The herd consisted of
seven half-grown young ones and three old ones, one
of which carried a pair of enormous tusks, projecting
eight or nine inches beyond his lip. Being well mount-
ed and the ground favorable, I at once gave chase, and
was soon at their heels. My horse was " The Gray."
I selected the old boar for my prey, and immediately
separated him from his comrades. After two miles of
sharp galloping, we commenced ascending a consider-
able acclivity, when I managed to close with him, and
succeeded in turning his head toward my camp. He
now reduced his pace to a trot, and regarded me with
a most malicious eye, his mouth a mass of foam. Ho

164 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

was entirely in my power, as I had only to spring from
my horse and bowl him over. I felt certain of him, but
resolved not to shoot as long as his course lay in the di-
rection of the wagons. At length, surprised at the res-
olute manner in which he held for my camp, I headed
him ; when, to my astonishment, he did not in the
slightest swerve from his course, but trotted along be-
hind my horse like a dog following me. This at once
roused my suspicions, and I felt certain that the cun-
ning old fellow was making for some retreat, so I re-
solved to dismount and finish him. Just, however, as
I had come to this resolution, I suddenly found myself
in a labyrinth of enormous holes, the burrows of the
ant-bear. In front of one of these the wild boar pulled
up, and, charging stern foremost into it, disappeared
from my disappointed eyes, and I saw him no more. I
rode home for my men ; and returning, we collected
grass and bushes, and endeavored to smoke him out,
but without success.

On the 7th we inspanned at dawn of day, and trek-
ked east about ten miles, encamping beside a small, is-
olated farm-house, which had been lately vacated by
some Boer, owing to the impending war with the Gri-
quas. Here we found plenty of old cow-dung for fuel ;
an article which, throughout the whole of the blesbok
country, is very scarce, there often being great diffi
culty in obtaining sufficient fuel to boil the kettle foi
coffee. Beside the farm-house were two strong springs
of excellent water, in which cresses flourished. Game
was abundant on all sides, wildebeests and springboks
pasturing within a few hundred yards of the door as
we drove up. Below the fountains was a small gar-
den, in which I found a welcome supply of onions and
other vegetables.

AN UNWELCOME BED-FELLOAV. 165

On the 12th I bagged two bull wildebeests and two
springboks to the northward of my camp. In the even-
ing 1 took my pillow and " komberse," or skin blan-
ket, to the margin of a neighboring vley, where I had
observed doe blesboks drink. Of these I had not yet
secured a single specimen, which I was very anxious
to do, as they likewise carry fine horns, which, though
not so thick as those of the males, are more gracefully
formed. Shortly after I had lain down, two porcupines
came grunting up to me, and stood within six feet of
where I lay. About midnight an old wildebeest came
and stood within ten yards of me, but I was too lazy
to fire at him. All night I heard some creature mov-
ing in the cracked earth beneath my pillow ; but, be-
lieving it to be a mouse, I did not feel much concerned
about the matter. I could not, however, divest myself
of a painful feeling that it might be a snake, and wrap-
ped my blanket tight round my body. Awaking at an
early hour the following morning, I forgot to look for
the tenant who had spent the night beneath my pil-
low. No blesbok appearing, I stalked an old spring-
bok through the rushes and shot him. Having con-
cealed him, I held for camp, and dispatched two men
to bring home the venison and my bedding.

While taking my breakfast I observed my men re-
turning, one of them carrying a very large and deadly
serpent. I at once felt certain it was he that I had
heard the previous night beneath my pillow ; and on
asking them where they had killed it, they replied, " In
your bed." On approaching the bedding, they had dis-
covered the horrid reptile sunning itself on the edge
of my blanket, until, on perceiving them, it glided
in beneath it. it was a large specimen of the black
variety of the puff adder, one of the most poisonous

166 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

serpents of Africa, death ensuing within an hoar after
its bite.

On the 15th I had a very good day's sport. As the
day dawned I peeped from my hole, and saw troops of
blesboks feeding on every side of me, but none camo
within range. I shot one springbok, and, having con-
cealed him in the rushes, walked to camp. After break-
fast I took the field with Kleinboy and the Bushman,
and rode north to try for blesboks. While lying be-
hind an ant-hill on the bare plain, a herd of about thirty
wildebeests came thundering down upon me, and the
leading bull nearly jumped over me. Into one of these
I fired ; he got the ball too far back, however, and made
off, but was found by one of my men the following day.
Presently Kleinboy rode up, and stated that while he
was driving the blesboks he had observed an old stag
hartebeest standing in the shade of some tall green
bushes in the adjacent range of hills. I resolved to
stalk him in the most approved Highland fashion ; so,
having made an accurate survey of the ground with my
spy-glass, I rode within a quarter of a mile of him, and
then proceeded to creep in upon him on my hands and
knees. In this manner I got within sixty yards of him,
where I lay flat on- my breast for several minutes until
lie should give me his broadside. Presently he walked
forth from the cover of the bush beneath which he had
been standing, when I sent a ball in at his right shoul-
der, which rested on the skin in his left haunch. Wheel-
ing about, he bounded over an adjacent ridge and was
out of sight in a moment. On gaining this ridge, I
was just in time to see the noble hartebeest stagger for
a moment, and then subside into the long grass in a
hollow below me. He was a princely old stag, carry-
ing splendid horns and a beautiful coat of new hair. J

GRAiVD SHOOTIXO. 167

thought I could never sufficiently admire him. Having
removed the head and skin, we made for the camp, and
on my way thither I was tempted to try a long shot at
one of the two old blesboks that kept capering to lee-
ward of us. Sitting down on the grass, and resting
both my elbows on my knees (a manner of firing much
practiced by the Boers), I let fly at a blesbok, and
made one of the finest shots I had ever seen, sending
the ball through the middle of his shoulder at upward
of two hundred and fifty yards. On receiving it, he
cantered forward a short distance and fell dead. The
rifle I used in those days was a double-barreled two-
grooved one, by Dixon of Edinburgh, with which I
managed to make such superior shooting to that which
I could perform with the old style of rifle, that I con-
sidered the latter as a mere "pop-gun" in comparison
with the other. In the evening I took up my position
m my shooting-hole to the northward of camp. About
an hour after the moon rose, a troop of wildebeests came
and stood within thirty yards of me. I fired, and a very
large bull with one horn fell to the shot. If I had al-
lowed this bull to lie there, my chance of further sport
was over for that night and the following morning. I
therefore took the old fellow by his horn, and, exerting
my utmost strength and taking time, I managed to
drag him as he fell, and still living, to a hollow beside
the water, in which I concealed him. In half an hour
another troop of wildebeests came and stood snufling
on the spot where he had fallen. I fired, and a fine old
bull received the ball in the shoulder, and, bounding
forward one hundred yards, rolled over in the dust In
about an hour a third troop of wildebeests came and
stood within thirty yards of me. At one of these I let
fly, and heard the ball crack loudly on his shoulder.

1C8 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA,

On the 16th I hunted on the plains to the northeast,
killing one springbok, and at night I watched the dis-
tant vley to the northward of my camp, and got a
fright which I shall remember to my dying day. Soon
after the moon rose, a troop of wildebeests came v/ith-
in range ; at one of these I fired, and he dropped to the
shot, the ball passing through the spine. A little after
this I discharged my other barrel at a large spotted
hyaena, and then I returned my rifle to its holster with-
out loading either barrel, and presently I was asleep.

I had not slept long when my light dreams were in-
fluenced by strange sounds. I dreamed that lions were
rushing about in quest of me, and, the sounds increas-
ing, I awoke with a sudden start, uttering a loud shriek.
I could not for several seconds remember in what part
of the world I was, or any thing connected with my
present position. I heard the rushing of light feet as
of a pack of wolves close on every side of me, accom-
panied by the most unearthly sounds. On raising my
head, to my utter horror I saw on every side nothing
but savage wild dogs, chattering and growling. On
my right and on my left, and wdthin a few paces of me,
stood two lines of these ferocious-looking animals, cock-
ing their ears and stretching their necks to have a look
at me ; while two large troops, in which there were at
least forty of them, kept dashing backward and forward
across my wdnd within a few yards of me, chattering
and growling with the most extraordinary volubility.
Another troop of wild dogs \Yere fighting over the w^ilde-
beest I had shot, which they had begun to devour. On
beholding them, I expected no other fate than to be in-
stantly torn to pieces and consumed. I felt my blood
curdling along my cheeks and my hair bristling on my
head. However, I had presence of mind to considc^r

WILD DOGS A CUNNING BULL WILDEBEEST. 169

that the human voice and a determined bearing might
overawe them, and accordingly, springing to ray ieet,
I stepped on to the little ledge surrounding the hole,
where, drawing myself up to my full height, I waved
my large blanket with both hands, at the same time
addressing my savage assembly in a loud and solemn
manner. This had the desired eftect:*the wild dogs
removed to a more respectful distance, barking at me
something like collies. Upon this I snatched up my
rifle and commenced loading, and before this was ac-
complished the entire pack had passed away and did
not return.

These had not been gone many minutes when twelve
or fifteen large hysenas were hard at work on tlte wilde-
beest. I fired two shots at them at different times
during the night, but none fell to my shots. Heedless
of me, they continued their banquet, and long before
morning nothing was left of the wildebeest save a few
of the larger bones. On the two following mornings I
was annoyed by a cunning old bull wildebeest, which,
having discovered my retreat, kept sentry over me,
and successively drove away every troop of his fellows
that approached my vley to drink. He kept feeding
just out of rifle-range, and not only warned his com-
rades of their danger by fixing his eye on my place of
concealment and snorting loudly, but when this failed
he drove the other wildebeests from me in the most de-
termined manner, like a collie dog driving sheep. Be-
fore leaving my hole, however, on the second morning,
[ had my revenge. A troop of cows, heedless of his
warnings, approached the vley. In his anxiety for their
safety he neglected his own; and coming for the fir^t
time within long rifle-range, I put up my after-sigh*.o
k\nd let drive at his ribs. The ball took efiect, and,

Vol. 1.— H.

170 ADVENTURES IW SOUTH AFRIGA-

kicking up his heels and flourishing his long white tail,
the old bull bounded forth, and, disappearing over a
ridge, I saw him no more.

The night of the 19th was to me rather a memora-
ble one, as being the first on which I had the satisfac-
tion of hearing the deep-toned thunder of the lion's roar
Although there was no one near to inform me by what
beast the haughty and impressive sounds which echo-
ed through the wilderness were produced, I had little
difliculty in divining. There was no mistake about it;
and on hearing it I at once knew, as well as if accus-
tomed to the sound from my infancy, that the appall-
ing roar which was uttered within half a mile of me
was no other than that of the mighty and terrible king
of beasts. Although the dignified and truly monarch-
ical appearance of the lion has long rendered him fa-
mous among his fellow quadrupeds, and his appearance
and habits have often been described by abler pens than
mine, nevertheless I consider that a few remarks, re-
sulting from my own personal experience, formed by a
tolerably long acquaintance with him both by day and
by night, may not prove uninteresting to the reader.
There is something so noble and imposing in the pres-
ence of the lion, when seen walking with dignified self-
possession, free and undaunted, on his native soil, that
no description can convey an adequate idea of his strik-
ing appearance. The lion is exquisitely formed by na-
ture for the predatory habits which he is destined to
pursue. Combining in comparatively small compass
the qualities of power and agility, he is enabled, by
means of the tremendous machinery with which nature
has gifted him, easily to overcome and destroy almost
every beast of the forest, however superior to him in
weight and stature.

HABITS OF THE LION, 171

Though considerably under four feet in height, he
has little difficulty in dashing to the ground and over-
coming the lofty and apparently powerful giraffe, whose
head towers above the trees of the forest, and whose
skin is nearly an inch in thickness. The lion is the
constant attendant of the vast herds of buffaloes which
frequent the interminable forests of the interior; and a
fall-grown one, so long as his teeth are unbroken, gen-
erally proves a match for an old bull buffalo, which in
size and strength greatly surpasses the most powerful
breed of English cattle: the lion also preys on all the
larger varieties of the antelopes, and on both varieties
of the gnoo. The zebra, which is met with in large
herds throughout the interior, is also a favorite object
of his pursuit.

Lions do not refuse, as has been asserted, to feast
upon the venison that they have not killed themselves.
I have repeatedly discovered lions of all ages which had
taken possession of, and were feasting upon, the car-
casses of various game quadrupeds which had fallen
before my rifle. The lion is very generally diffused
throughout the secluded parts of Southern Africa. He
is, however, nowhere met with in great abundance, it
being very rare to find more than three, or even two,
families of lions frequenting the same district and drink-
ing at the same fountain. When a greater number
were met with, I remarked that it was owing to long-
protracted droughts, which, by drying nearly all the
fountains, had compelled the game of various districts
to crowd the remaining springs, and the lions, accord-
ing to their custom, followed in the wake. It is a
common thing to come upon a full-grown lion and lioi
ess associating with three or four large ones nearly ful,
grown ; at other times, full-grown males will be found

172 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

associating and hunting together in a happy state of
friendship : two, three, and four full-grown male lions
may thus be discovered consorting together.

The male lion is adorned with a long, rank, shaggy
mane, which in some instances almost sweeps the
ground. The color of these manes varies, some being
very dark, and others of a golden yellow. This ap-
pearance has given rise to a prevailing opinion among
the Boers that there are two distinct varieties of lions,
which they distinguish by the respective names of
" Schwart fore life" and " Chiel fore life:" this idea,
however, is erroneous. The color of the lion's mane is
generally influenced by his age. He attains his mane
'n the third year of his existence. I have remarked
that at first it is of a yellowish color ; in the prime of
life it is blackest, and when he has numbered many
years, but still is in the full enjoyment of his power, it
assumes a yellowish-gray, pepper-and-salt sort of color.
These old fellows are cunning and dangerous, and most
to be dreaded. The females are utterly destitute of a
mane, being covered with a short, thick, glossy coat of
tawny hair. The manes and coats, of lions frequenting
open-lying districts utterly destitute of trees, such as
the borders of the great Kalahari desert, are more rank
and handsome than those inhabiting forest districts.

One of the most striking things connected with the
lion is his voice, which is extremely grand and peculiar-
ly striking. It consists at times of a low, deep moan-
ing, repeated five or six times, ending in faintly audi-
ble sighs ; at other times he startles the forest with loud,
deep-toned, solemn roars, repeated five or six times in
quick succession, each increasing in loudness to the
third or fourth, when his voice dies away in five or six
low, muffled sounds, very much resembling distant

THE. ROAR OF THE LION. 173

thunder. At times, and not nnfrequently, a troop may
be heard roaring in concert, one assuming the lead, and
two, three, or four more regularly taking up their parts,
like persons singing a catch. Like our Scottish stags
at the rutting season, they roar loudest in cold, frosty
nights ; but on no occasions are their voices to be heard
in such perfection, or so intensely powerful, as when
two or three strange troops of lions approach a fount-
ain to drink at the same time. When this occurs,
every member of each troop sounds a bold roar of defiance
at the opposite parties ; and when one roars, all roar to-
gether, and each seems to vie with his comrades in the in-
tensity and power of his voice. The power and grandeur
of these nocturnal forest concerts is inconceivably strik-
ing and pleasing to the hunter's ear. The effect, I may
remark, is greatly enhanced when the hearer happens
to be situated in the depths of the forest, at the dead
hour of midnight, unaccompanied by any attendant, and
ensconced within twenty yards of the fountain which
the surrounding troops of lions are approaching. Such
has been my situation many scores of times ; and though
I am allowed to have a tolerably good taste for music,
I consider the catches with which I was then regaled
as the sweetest and most natural I ever heard.

As a general rule, lions roar during the night; their
sighing moans commencing as the shades of evening
envelop the forest, and continuing at intervals through-
out the night. In distant and secluded regions, how-
ever, I have constantly heard them roaring loudly as
late as nine and ten o'clock on a bright sunny morn-
ing. In hazy and rainy weather they are to be heard
at every hour in the day, but their roar is subdued.
It often happens that when two strange male lions meet
at a fountain a terrific combat ensues, which not un-

174 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

frequently ends in the death of one of them. Ths
habits of the lion are strictly nocturnal; during the
day he lies concealed beneath the shade of some low
bushy tree or wide-spreading bush, either in the level
forest or on the mountain side. He is also partial to
lofty reeds, or fields of long, rank yellow grass, such as
occur in low-lying vleys. From these haunts he sallies
forth when the sun goes down, and commences his
nightly prowl. When he is successful in his beat and
has secured his prey, he does not roar much that night,
only lattering occasionally a few low moans; that is,
provided no intruders approach him, otherwise the case
would be very different.

Lions are ever most active, daring, and presuming
in dark and stormy nights, and consequently, on such
occasions, the traveler ought more particularly to be on
his guard. I remarked a fact connected with the lions'
hour of drinking peculiar t.o themselves: they seemed
unwilling to visit the fountains with good moonlight.
Thus, when the moon rose early, the lions deferred their
hour of watering until late in the morning; and when
the moon rose late, they drank at a very early hour in
the night. By this acute system many a grisly lion saved
his bacon, and is now luxuriating in the forest of South
Africa, which had otherwise fallen by the barrels of my
"Westley Richards." Owingto the tawny color of the
coat with which nature has robed him, he is perfectly
invisible in the dark; and although I have often heard
them loudly lapping the water under my very nose, not
twenty yards from me, I could not possibly make out
so much as the outline of their forms. When a thirsty
lion comes to water, he stretches out his massive arms,
lies down on his breast to drink, and makes a loud lap-
ping noise in drinking not to be mistaken. He con«

FEARLESSNESS OF THE LION. 175

imues lapping up tho water for a long while, and four
or five times during the proceeding he pauses for half
a minute as if to take breath. One thing conspicuous
about them is their eyes, which, in a dark night, glow
like two balls of fire. Tho female is more fierce and
active than the male, as a general rule. Lionesses
which have never had young are much more danger-
ous than those which have. At no time is the lion so
much to be dreaded as when his partner has got small
young ones. At that season he knows no fear, and, in
the coolest and most intrepid manner, he will face a
thousand men. A remarkable instance of this kind
came under my own observation, which confirmed tho
reports I had before heard from the natives. One day,
when out elephant-hunting in the territory of the "Ba-
seleka," accompanied by two hundred and fifty men, I
was astonished suddenly to behold a majestic lion slow-
ly and steadily advancing toward us with a dignified
step and undaunted bearing, the most noble and impos-
ing that can be conceived. Lashing his tail from side
to side, and growling haughtily, his terribly expressive
eye resolutely fixed upon us, and displaying a show of
ivory well calculated to inspire terror among the timid
"Bechuanas," he approached. A headlong (light of the
two hundred and fifty men was the immediate result;
and, in the confusion of the moment, four couples of my
dogs, which they had been leading, were allowed to
c?cape in their couples, These instantly faced the lion,
who, finding that by his bold bearing he had succeeded
in putting his enemies to flight, now became solicitous
for the safety of his little family, with which tho lion-
ess was retreating in the back-ground. Facing about,
he followed afl^r them with a haughty and independent
step, growling fiercely at the dogs which trotted along

176 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

on either side of liim. Three troops of elephants hav
ing been discovered a few minutes previous to this,
upon which I was marching for the attack, I, with the
most heartfelt reluctance, reserved my fire. On run-
ning down the hill side to endeavor to recall my dogs,
I observed, for the first time, the retreating lioness with
four cubs. About twenty minutes afterward two noble
elephants repaid my forbearance.

Among Indian Ninirods, a certain class of royal ti-
gers is dignified with the appellation of " man-eaters."
These are tigers which, having once tasted human flesh,
show a .predilection for the same, and such characters
are very naturally famed and dreaded among the na-
tives. Elderly gentlemen of similar tastes and habits
are occasionally met with among the lions in the inte-
rior of South Africa, and the danger of such neighbors
may be easily imagined. I account for lions first ac-
quiring this taste in the following manner: the Bechua-
na tribes of the far interior do not bury their dead, but
unceremoniously carry them forth, and leave them ly-
ing exposed in the forest or on the plain, a prey to the
lion and hya3na, or the jackal and vulture ; and I can
readily imagine that a lion, having thus once tasted
human flesh^vould have little hesitation, when oppor-
tunity presented itself, of springing upon and carrying
off the unwary traveler or " Bechuana" inhabiting his
country. Be this as it may, man-eaters occur ; and
on my fourth hunting expedition, a horrible tragedy
was acted one dark night in my little lonely camp by
one of these formidable characters, which deprived me,
in the far wilderness, of my most valuable servant. In
winding up these few observations on the lion, which I
trust will not have been tiresome to the reader, I may
remark that lion-hunting, under any circumstances, ia

BOER ENCAMPMENT. 177

decidedly a dangerous pursuit. It may nevertheless
be followed, to a certain extent, with comparative safe-
ty by those who have naturally a turn for that sort of
thing. A recklessness of death, p3rfect coolness and
self-possession, an acquaintance with the disposition
and manners of lions, and a tolerable knowledge of the
use of the rifle, are indispensable to him who would
shine in the overpoweringly exciting pastime of hunt-
ing this justly celebrated king of beasts.

CHAPTER- X.

Boer Encampment — A Night in a Storm — A Fancy Costume — Fear-
ful Encounter with a Lioness — " Colesberg" dreadfully mangled —
Cowardice of Hottentots — We march back to Colesberg — Danger of
being plundered by the Rebel Boers — Airival at Colesberg — The
Troops march against the Boers — The Battle of Schwart Coppice —
Start for the distant Land of Elephants — The Hottentots make free
with my Brandy, and mutiny — Leopards — Kurumau — Mr. Moffat,
the good Missionary — Roasted Locusts.

On the 22d of March I rode south to a distant farm,
for the double purpose of obtaining some corn or meal,
and of hearing the news of the impending war between
the Boers and Griquas. On reaching the farm, I found
that a large party of Boers were here encamped to-
gether : they had mustered for mutual protection.
Their tents and wagons were drawn up on every side
of the farm-house, forming a very lively appearance.
The Boers informed me that all their countrymen, and
also the Griquas, were thus packed together in " la-
gers" or encampments, and that hostilities were about
to commence. They remonstrated with no on v/hat

II 2

178 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

they were pleased to term my madness, in living alone
in an isolated position in such sharp times, and invited
me to place myself for protection under their banner.
I endeavored to persuade them to get up a party to
hunt the lion ; but this they declined to do, remarking
that "a lion (like Johnnie Gordon's bagpipes) was not
to be played with." Returning to my camp, I bowled
over a springbok at one hundred and fifty yards. On
the 23d, having breakfasted, I rode north, with after-
riders, to try for blesboks. It was a cool day, with a
strong easterly breeze, and we found the game ex-
tremely wild. As we proceeded, vast herds kept
streaming up on the wind, darkening the plain before
us in countless thousands. About two miles north of
the bushy mountain where I had heard the lion roar,
far in the vast level plain, were some bushy mimosa-
trees. Within a few hundred yards of these we dis-
covered an old bull wildebeest, newly killed by a lion
and half eaten. His large and striking foot-prints were
deeply imbedded in the sand, and so fresh that they
seemed to have been imprinted only a few minutes be-
fore. Moreover, there was not a single vulture near
the carcass. We therefore felt convinced that the lion
must be lying somewhere near us, having hidden him-
self on our approach. ^ We searched for some time in
the adjacent hollows, where the grass was very rank,
but in vain. The game now became more and more
wild, taking away into another district in long strings,
like our island red-deer when hard driven ; I accord-
ingly gave it up, and turned my horse's head for camp.
On my way thither I bagged one blesbok and two bull
wildebeests : one of these got the bullet through his
heart, but nevertheless stood at bay for some time after
On reaching camp I suddenly resolved to take men and

A MGHT IN A STORM. 179

horses with me, and spend the night in the vicinity of
the lion, and search early for him on the following
morning. Accordingly, while dinner was preparing, I
occupied myself in cleaning and loading my three dou-
ble-barreled rifles; after which, having dined, I rode
with Kleinboy and John Stofolns to my hole by the
vley, where my bedding lay day and night. This spot
was within a few miles of where we expected to fall in
with the lion in the morning. We secured the three
horses to one another, as there was no tree or bush with-
in miles of us ; but these I could dispense with, for I
knew very well by the looks of the Hottentots that they
would not sleep much, but would keep a vigilant eyo
over our destinies. I spent a most miserable night.
The wind, which had been blowing so fresh in the height
of the day, had subsided to a' calm when the sun went
down, and was now succeeded by an almost death-lilce
stiUness, which I too well knew was the harbinger of
a coming tempest. . We had not lain down an hour
when the sky to leeward became black as pitch. Pres-
ently the most vivid flashes of lightning followed one
another in quick succession, accompanied by terrific
peals of thunder. The wind, which, during the day,
had been out of the northeast, now, as is usual on such
occasions, veered right round, and came whistling up
from the southwest, where the tempest was brewing ;
and in a few minutes more it was upon us in all its
fury, the rain descending in torrents on our devoted
heads, while vivid flashes of lightning momentarily il-
lumined, with the brilliancy of day, the darkness that
reigned around. In a very few minutes the whole plain
was a sheet of water, and every atom of my cl':>thes and
bedding was thoroughly saturated. My three rifles
had excellent holsters, and with the help of two sheep*

180 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

skins, which I used instead of saddle-cloths, I kept their
quite dry. In two hours the tempest had passed away,
but light rain fell till morning, until which time I lay
on the wet ground, soaked to the skin. About mid-
night we heard the lion roar a mile or so to the north-
ward, and a little before the day dawned I again heard
him in the direction of the carcass which we had found
on the preceding day. Soon after this I gave the word
to march. We then aVose and saddled our horses. I
found my trowsers lying in a pool of water, so I con-
verted a blanket into a long kilt by strapping it round
my waist with my shooting-belt. The costume of my
followers was equally unique. We held for the north
end of the lion's mountain at a sharp pace, which we
gained before it was clear enough to see surrounding
objects. As the light broke in upon us we reduced our
pace, and rode slowly up the middle of the vast level
plain toward the carcass of the wildebeest, with large
herds of wildebeests, springbok, blesbok, and quaggas
on every ride of us, which were this day as tame as
they had been wild on the previous one. This is gen-
erally the case after a storm. The morn was cloudy ;
misty vapors hung on the shoulders of the neighboring
mountains, and the air was loaded with balmy per-
fume, emitted by the grateful plants and herbs. As we
approached the carcass, I observed several jackals steal
away, and some half-drowned-looking vultures were
sitting round it. But there was no appearance of the
lion. I spent the next half hour in riding across the
plain looking for his spoor ; but I sought in vain. Be-
ing cold and hungry, I turned my horse's head for camp,
and rode slowly along through the middle of the game
which would scarcely move out of rifle-range on either
side of me.

ENCOUNTER WITH A LIONESS. 181

Suddenly I observed a number of vultures seated on
the plain about a quarter of a mile ahead of us, and
close beside them stood a huge lioness, consuming a
blesbok which she had killed. She was assisted in her
repast by about a dozen jackals, which were feasting
along with her in the most friendly and confidential
manner. Directing my followers' attention to the spot,
I remarked, "I see the lion;" to which they replied,
"Whar? whar? Yah! Almagtig I dat is he;" and
instantly reining in their steeds and wheeling about,
they pressed their heels to their horses' sides, and were
preparing to betake themselves to flight. I asked them
what they were going to do. To which they answer-
ed, " We have not yet placed caps on our rifles." This
was true ; but while this short conversation was pass-
ing the lioness had observed us. Raising her full, round
face, she overhauled us for a few seconds, and then set
off" at a smart canter toward a range of mountains some
miles to the northward ; the wdiole troop of jackals also
started off in another direction ; there was, therefore,
no time to think of caps. The first move was to bring
her to bay, and not a second was to be lost. Spurring
my good and lively steed, and shouting to my men to
follow, I flew across the plain, and, being fortunately
mounted on Colesberg, the flower of my stud, I gained
upon her at every stride. This was to me a joyful mo-
ment, and I at once made up my mind that she or I
must die.

The lioness having had a long start of me, we went
over a considerable extent of ground before I came np
with her. She w^as a large, full-grown beast, and the
bare and level nature of the j)lain added to her impos-
ing appearance. Finding that I gained upon her, sho
riHlueed her pace from a canter to a trot, carrying her

182 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

tail stuck nut behind her, and slewed a little to one
side. I shouted loudly to her to halt, as I wished to
speak with her, upon which she suddenly pulled up,
and sat on her haunches like a dog, with her back to-
ward me, not even deigning to look round. She then
appeared to say to herself, " Does this fellow know who
he is after ?" Plaving thus sat for half a minute, as
if involved in thought, she sprang to her feet, and,
facing about, stood looking at me for a few seconds,
moving her tail slovdy from side to side, showing her
teeth, and growling fiercely. She next made a short
run forward, making a loud, rumbling noise like thun-
der. This she did to intimidate me ; but, finding that
I did not flinch an inch nor seem to heed her hostile
demonstrations, she quietly stretched out her massive
arms, and lay down on the grass. My Hottentots now
coming up, we all three dismounted, and, drawing our
rifles from their holsters, we looked to see if the pow-
der was up in the nipples, and put on our caps. While
this was doing the lioness sat up, and showed evident
symptoms of uneasiness. She looked first at us, and
then behind her, as if to see if the coast were clear ,
after which she made a short run toward us, uttering
her deep-drawn, murderous growls. Having secured
the three horses to one another by their rheims, we led
them on as if we intended to pass her, in the hope of
obtaining a broadside. But this she carefully avoided
to expose, presenting only her full front. I had given
Stofolus my Moore rifle, with orders to shoot her if she
should spring upon me, but on no account to fire before
me. Klcinboy was to stand ready to hand me my Fur-
dey rifle, in case the two-grooved Dixon should not
prove sufficient. My men as yet had been steady, but
they were in a precious stew, their faces having as-

ENCOUNTER WITH A LIONESS. 183

sumed a ghastly paleness, and I had a painfnl feeling
that. I could place no reliance on them.

Now, then,jfor it, neck or nothing I She is within
sixty yards of us, and she keeps advancing. AVe turn-
ed the horses' tails to her. I knelt on one side, and,
taking a steady aim at her breast, let fly. The ball
cracked loudly on her tawny hide, and crippled her in
the shoulder, upon which she charged with an appalling
roar, and in the twinkling of an eye she was in the
midst of us. At this moment Stofolus's rifle exploded
in his hand, and Kleinboy, whom I had ordered to stand
ready by me, danced about like a duck in a gale of
wind. The lioness sprang upon Colesberg, and fear-
fully lacerated his ribs and haunches with her horrid
teeth and claws ; the worst wound was on his haunch,
which exhibited a sickening, yawning gash, more than
twelve inches long, almost laying bare the very bone.
I was very cool and steady, and did not feel in the least
degree nervous, having fortunately great confidence in
my own shooting ; but I must confess, when the whole
affair was over, I felt that it was a very awful situa-
tion, and attended with extreme peril, as I had no
friend with me on whom I could rely.

When the lioness sprang on Colesberg, I stood out
from the horses, ready with my second barrel for the
first chance she should give me of a clear shot. This
she quickly did ; for, seemingly satisfied with the re-
venge she had now taken, she quitted Colesberg, and,
slewing her tail to one side, trotted sulkily past within
a few paces of me, taking one step to the left. I pitch-
ed my rifle to my should«r, and in another second the
lioness was stretched on the plain a lifeless corpse. In
the struggles of death she half turned on her back, and
stretched her neck and fore arms convulsively, when

184 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

she fell back to her former position ; her mighty arms
hung powerless by her side, her lower jaw fell, blood
streamed from her mouth, and she expired. At the
moment I fired my second shot, Stofolus, who hardly
knew whether he was alive or dead, allowed the three
horses to escape. These galloped frantically across the
plain, on which he and Kleinboy instantly started after
them, leaving me standing alone and unarmed within
a few paces of the lioness, which they, from their anx-
iety to be out of the way, evidently considered quite
capable of doing further mischief.

Such is ever the case with these worthies, and with
nearly all the natives of South Africa. No reliance
can be placed on them. They will to a certainty for-
sake their master in the most dastardly manner in the
hour of peril, and leave him in the lurch. A stranger,
however, hearing these fellows recounting their own
gallant adventures, when sitting in the evening along
with their comrades round a blazing fire, or under the
influence of their adored " Cape smoke" or native
brandy, might fancy them to be the bravest of the
brave. Having skinned the lioness and cut off her
head, we placed her trophies upon Beauty and held foi
camp. Before we had proceeded a hundred yards from
the carcass, upward of sixty vultures, whom the lion-
ess had often fed, were feasting on her remains.

We led poor Colesberg slowly home, where, having
washed his wounds and carefully stitched them togeth-
er, I ordered the cold water cure to be adopted. Undei
this treatment his wounds rapidly healed, and he event-
ually recovered. The sky remained overcast through-
out the day. When the shades of evening set in, ter-
ror seemed to have taken possession of the minds of my
followers, and thev swore that the mate of the lioness,

MARCH FOR COLESBERG. 185

on finding her bones, would follow on our spoor and re-
venge her death. Under this impression, they refused
to remain at>out the wagons or in the tent after the sun
went down ; and having cut down the rafters and cup-
boards of the Boer's house for fuel, they kindled a large
fire in the kitchen, where they took up their quarters
for the night.

1 continued hunting here until the 29th, when I
deemed it high time to return to Colesberg, for the pur-
pose of packing and storing my curiosities, increasing
my establishment, and refitting generally, preparatory
to starting for the distant land of elephants in the far
forests of the interior. The distemper or horse sickness,
which rages in those parts during the summer months,
might be expected shortly to be past ; there was, there-
fore, not much time to lose. The morning was spent
in stowing the wagons, greasing the wheels, securing
the pots, gridirons, spades, &c;, and overhauling the
yokes, rheims, straps, and other gear, preparatory to in-
spanning, and in the afternoon we inspanned, and, turn-
ing our faces to the south, marched upon Colesberg.

On the march I killed two springboks ; and having
proceeded ten miles, we halted for the night. It rained
heavily till morning. My oxen were in fine condition,
and, having done very little work of late, they were
very fresh and obstreperous. On the following day we
crossed the Riet River. The country was very heavy,
owing to the recent rains, and some of my gear, which
was rotten, broke repeatedly, causing much delay. At
sundown we halted at a lager, or encampment of Boers.
Here about a dozen families were congregated together
for mutual protection. These men were all rebels and
our enemies, being, at that very moment, at war with
our allies, the Griquas and Bastards, whom we shortly

1S6 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

afterward assisted against the Boers. I deemed it rathe?
a rash step thus coolly to march through the enemy's
country, bearding as it were the lion in liis den. There
was, however, no help for it ; so I resolved to take the
bull by the horns, and put on a bold face. The least
that I might have expected was to have my wagons
most thoroughly ransacked and plundered, if not taken
from me altogether. This they would certainly have
done if they had thought that I was an Englishman;
but by saying I was. a berg Scot, or mountain Scots-
man, backed by the garb of Old Gaul, which I always
wore, I convinced them that I was a Scotsman. Many
of the clergymen among the Boers being Scots, they
entertain a predilection for my countrymen.

These Boers happened to be short of coffee, a bever-
age of which they are extremely fond. I had, fortu-
nately, a large supply in my wagons, and as I was on
my way to Colesberg, I had no objection to dispose of
it. Accordingly, by presenting the ladies of the lead-
ing families with a few half pounds of coffee, and sell-
ing them the remainder of my stock at a moderate
price, I managed to secure the good graces of the whole,
and they were pleased to express their opinion that I
was a " ghooe carle," or good fellow. On hearing that
a few days previous I had bagged a savage lioness, and
on beholding her trophies, they seemed quite astonish-
ed, remarking to one another, " Mi scapsels ! vat zoor-
ten mens is de ?" signifying, " My stars and garters !
what sort of man is this ?" In the course of the even-
ing and during the night several armed parties of Boers
halted at this lager to refresh, and then passed on to
join the head-quarters of their army, which was en-
camped about forty miles to the southward, at a place
called " Schwart Coppice." Each of these Boers was

ARRIVAL AT ORANGE RIVER. 187

provided with one or more pack-horses bearing his com-
missariat and ammunition, and many of them had Hot-
tentot and Bushman after-riders. Their sole weapon
consisted of their roer or long gnn ; each wore a leathern
shooting-belt round his waist, and a large bullock's horn
containing powder dangled by his side.

On the 31st I continued my march, and on the even-
ing of the 2d of April I reached Philipolis, a missionary
station, and the chief town of the Bastards' country.
My road had led between the encampments of the con-
tending parties. Troops of mounted Boers had been
scouring the country in every direction, plundering all
they could lay their hands on, and sweeping off the cat-
tle and horses of the Bastards. Halting at an encamp-
ment of Bastards on the preceding day, I was much
amused by their taking me for a missionary. My cos-
tume was not very clerical, consisting of a dirty .shirt
and an old Gordon tartan kilt. From a Bastard in the
vicinity of Philipolis I obtained two large rough dogs
in exchange for three pounds of coffee and a little tea.
The names of these dogs were " Bles" and " Flam."
Bles was of an extremely fierce and savage disposition.
On the evening of the 3d we encamped on the northern
bank of the mighty Orange River, at a place called
" Boata's Drift," which is nearly opposite Colesberg.
Our march had been through a succession of mountains,
covered with excellent pasture to their summits. It
had rained heavily throughout the day. After inspect-
ing the drift or ford on the following morning, we cal-
culated that the river was too high for the wagons to
cross; and by sending a man over on horseback, ac-
cording to the most approved custom, we ascertained
that a passage for the wagons was impracticable. I
accordingly instructed my men to proceed to Nerval's

188 . ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Punt, situated a long marcli higher up the river, there
to cross and join me in Colesberg on the evening of the
following day ; and having breakfasted, I saddled " The
Immense Brute," and, taking the ford high up, managed
to cross the river in safety, the current having twice
taken my horse off his legs. In two hours I entered
the village of. Colesberg, where I found the officers of
the 91st and all my other friends in great force."

My wagons did not make their appearance in Coles-
berg until the afternoon of the third day. I took up
my quarters with my old friend Mr. Paterson, who also
kindly accommodated the half of my stud in his stables,
and the other half I picketed in the stables of my old
regiment, the Cape Mounted Rifles. My oxen I per-
mitted to run day and night in the neighboring mount-
ains. On the 7th we off-loaded the wagons, and made
a grand parade of my heads and hunting trophies in
front of Paterson's house, which was situated in the
center of the village : this attracted crowds of persons
throughout the day. In the afternoon of the 8th, Mr.-
Rawstorne, the resident magistrate, received dispatches
from Adam Kok, chief of the Bastards, stating that the
Boers had commenced active hostilities, and craving
assistance from government. Accordingly, in the even-
ing, an order was issued that all the available force in
the garrison should march upon the Orange River next
day. This I considered an intense bore, as I should
thereby lose the society of all my friends. On the fol-
lowing morning all was bustle and preparation through-
out the village, the military preparing for the march,
and the merchants loading up their wagons with com-
missariat for the supply of the troops, while many a
dark-eyed nymph wiped the hot tear from her'express-
ive eye, and heaved a deep-drawn sigh as she reflect

WAR WITH THE BOERS. 189

ed on the absence of her lover and the casualties of
war.

At half past twelve the men mustered on the parade-
ground, and marched out of the village for Alleman's
Drift. Paterson politely requested me to occupy his
quarters as long as I remained in Colesberg, and not
to spare his cellar, which contained most excellent wine.
On the following day, while actively employed in for-
warding my affairs, a friend informed me that all my
oxen were safely lodged in the skit-kraal or pound, from
which I released them, after a deal of trouble and an-
noyance, by a small pecuniary disbursement. In the
evening the village was agitated by a report that a
skirmish had taken place between the Boers and Bas-
tards, in which several had fallen on both sides, and
that it was the intention of the Boers to pillage Coles-
berg. On the 15th, in company witli Messrs. Gibbon
and Draper, two merchants of Colesbeig, I rode out to
visit my friends of the 91st, who were encamped at
Alleman's Drift, on the south side of the river. At
this spot the Orange River and the surrounding scenery
are very beautiful, reminding me of Highland scenery.
At one bold sweep of the river the waters are hemmed
in by stupendous granite rocks, which cause a deep
and sweeping rapid. Below are long deep pools, in-
closed by banks adorned with drooping willows and
everlasting verdure. I found my friends the military
employed, according to the most approved system in
the army, luxuriating in brandy and cheroots. The
privates, availing themselves of the proximity of the
river, were enjoying the recreations of angling and
dragging the river v/ith nets. They captured lots of
mullet and barbel, averaging from one to four pounds
in weight.

190 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

A party of artillery and a detachment of the 7th
Dragoon Guards were reported en rovte from Fort
Beaufort, to assist the 91st in their operations against
the Boers. Skirmishes were daily occurring between
the belligerents on the opposite side, and expresses from
Adam Kok were continually arriving in camp, solicit-
ing assistance. The manner in which these skirmish-
es were conducted w^as very amusing, and illustrative
of the high courage of the contending parties. Every
day, having breakfasted, the Boers and Bastards w'ere
in the habit of meeting and peppering away at one an-
other till the afternoon, when each party returned to its
respective encampment. The distance at which they
stood from one another might be somewhere above a
couple of miles, and they fired at one another peeping
over ranges of coppice or low rocky hills, while large
herds of springboks and wildebeests kept quietly pas-
turing on the goreless field of battle between them.

Some of these neutrals, I was informed, occasionally
fell before the hissing balls of the redoubted warriors.
Before dismissing the subject of the rebellion of '45, I
may state that soon after this, the 91st and Cape Corps
men being re-enforced w'ith a party of artillery and a
detachment of the 7th Dragoon Guards, they crossed
the Orange River, and advanced upon the Boers' posi-
tion by forced marches, when the Boers were charged
by the dragoons and put to flight, and their wagons
and commissariat fell into our hands. On this occasion
the Boers had two pieces of ordnance, of which they
were supposed to have obtained possession some years
previously at Port Natal. Over one of these presided
a Frenchman of low stature; and while little jMonsieur
was actively employed in ramming down one of their
home-made balls, which were constructed of lead, a

BROTHER NIMRODS. 191

Cape Corps man rode up, and sent a bullet through the
center of his skull. Thus ended the memorable battle
of Scliwart Coppice ; and since that time the valorous
Bastards have been loud in their own praises, declaring
that " they are the boys to put the Boers up to the time
o' day."

On the forenoon of the 16th I rode through the river
to visit a gentleman of the name of Bain, who was then
living on one of Mr. Fossey's farms. Mr. Bain had
made several trips into the interior, and gave me much
valuable information and dazzling accounts of the sport
I might expect. He recommended my trekking down
the Orange E-iver to a drift near Rhama, and thence
proceeding by Campbellsdorp to Kuruman, a mission-
ary station distant from Colesberg about two hundred
and fifty miles, where I should obtain a Bechuana in-
terpreter, and all necessary information from the resi-
dent missionary. On the following day, having taken
leave of my kind friends and brother sportsmen, I rode
into Colesberg. Here I had the pleasure of meeting
two Nimrods, Messrs. Murray and Oswell, proceeding,
like myself, on a hunting expedition into the far inte-
rior— the former a keen salmon-fisher from the banks
of Tay, the latter a civilian in the Honorable East In-
dia Company's service. During my stay in Colesberg
I was actively employed storing my collection and re-
fitting. All my specimens were carefully sown up in
canvas, and nailed down in cases ; and perishable arti-
cles, such as skins and stuffed heads, were hermetical-
ly sealed, being carefully soldered up in tin cases by
old Mr. Privet, the tinsmith, one of the leading mem-
bers of the community of Colesberg.

I covered my wagons with new sails, and had the
wheels and iron-work carefully overhauled by the black-

192 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

smith. I purchased from various parties several ex*
cellent horses and trek-oxen, and increased my kennel
of dogs to twelve stout, rough, serviceable-looking curs.
From Mr. Williams of the commissariat I purchased a
largo elephant-gun, carrying four to the pound. I en-
gaged two additional Hottentots, named Johannus and
Kleinfeldt, and replenished my supplies in every depart-
ment ; and on the 22d, every thing being ready, I re-
solved, if possible, to get under way that afternoon.
With inconceivable trouble, I managed to collect all
my runaway men, dogs, oxen, and horses together ; and,
after much bustle and angry altercation with my ine-
briated and swarthy crew, my caravan was in motion,
and started on its distant journey. We were followed
by the female acquaintances of our Hottentots, scream-
ing, yelling, and cursing at their men, at the sarrie
time catching up handfuls of red dust, which they toss-
ed into the air with true Hottentot action. Having no
hair fortunately to rend, they contented themselves with
scratching their woolly pates and rending their petti-
coats, which they soon reduced to tatters. Among oth-
er articles with which I loaded up while in Colesbert?
was a number of common muskets, which had been
represented to me as being the most available to barter
for ivory with the tribes of the far interior. These I
afterward turned to good account, and regretted that I
did not possess ten times as many of them. As it was
not improbable that, in the event of my encamping too
near to Colesberg that evening, my followers would
avail themselves of the opportunity to levant under cov-
er of night, and return to the embraces of their wives
and sweethearts, I made up my mind, having once suc-
ceeded in setting them in motion, to give them a good
spell of it ; and accordingly, there being good moon-

DEPARTURE FCR THE LAND OF ELEPHANTS. 193

light, I (lid not permit them to outspan until after mid-
night. I held a westerly course, steering for the Salt-
pan's Drift, about four days' journey down the Orange
River, where I intended crossing. By adopting this
course I avoided the hostile Boers, who were scouring
the country across the river immediately opposite to
Colesbcrg.

On the fourth day I reached Salt-pan's Drift, which
I crossed with considerable difficulty, the wagons re-
peatedly sticking fast in the deep sand. The opposite
bank was extremely steep, and required an hour's cut-
ting with our pickaxes and shovels. We passed the
farms of several Boers, from whom I purchased three
excellent dogs, named "Wolf," "Prince," and "Bonte-
berg." On one of these farms were half a dozen os-
triches, which the Boer endeavored to persuade me to
purchase. Continuing our march, on the 28th we
passed through the Griqua kraal named Rhama. In
the morning, on proceeding to rouse my men, I discov-
ered Kleinboy very coolly smoking his pipe over my
loose, dilapidated powder-casks; upon which I seized
the culprit, and handled him rather roughly. This so
disgusted my friend that he dashed his pipe on the
ground with true Hottentot action, and swore he would
go no farther with me. The appearance, however, of
a fine fat sheep, which I purchased a few minutes after
from a Griqua, induced INIr. Kleinboy to alter his mind
on the subject, and he sulkily returned to his duty. On
the 4th of May Ave made the fair Vaal River, which
we crossed at my old drift. Here a party of Korannas
rode up to the wagons, mounted on pack-oxen. The
bridles consisted of thongs attached to sticks passed
through a hole in the animals' noses, and the saddle
was a sheep-skin secured with a thong across the back.

Vol. I.— I

194 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

In the evening we trekked half way to Canipbellsdorp
On the march my dogs killed two fine porcupines by
tearing off their heads, the only vulnerable part, but
getting, at the same time, their own noses and shoul-
ders full of the quills. On the following day we passed
through Campbellsdorp, where I was kindly welcomed
by Mr. Bartlett, the resident missionary, from whom 1
received a liberal present of bread and vegetables.

On the third day after leaving Campbellsdorp we
reached Daniel's Kuil, a kraal of Griquas under Water-
boer. The country through which we passed was level
and uninteresting, no hill nor landmark relieving the
ocean-like expanse and sameness of the scene in any
direction. In parts the country was covered as far as
I could see with a species of bush, averaging about nine
feet in height, having a gray leaf and bunches of small
gray blossoms, yielding a very sweet and powerful aro-
matic perfume. In the evening we continued our march
to Kramer's Fonteyn, a very powerful fountain, whose
waters issue hot from the earth, as if they were mixed
with boiling water. Leaving Kramer's Fonteyn on the
9th, we held for Koning, a very distant water on the
road to Kuruman. Toward midnight my men com-
menced driving furiously, and I ascertained that they
were under the influence of liquor, which I imagined
they had obtained from the Griquas. On ordering
them to halt and outspan, Mr. Kleinboy only drove the
harder, so that I found it necessary to send him flying
off the box. A short time after I had been asleep I
was wakened by a commotion among my cattle, and
found that my men had commenced inspanningthe ox-
en, stating that they intended to proceed no further,
but to return with the wagons to the colony. Finding
Tcmonstrance vain, I had recourse to my double-bar

HOTTENTOTS REBELLIOUS. 195

reled rifle, uj3on which my followers for the moment
relinquished their intention of inspanning, and, retiring
to the shelter of a neighboring bush, they shortly fell
asleep. I kept sentry over the wagons during the re-
mainder of the night, with my rifle in my hand and a
hatchet by my side. At dawn of day on the following
morning I roused my ruflians, and ordered them to in-
span, which orders they mechanically obeyed,. swear-
ing, however, that this was the last time they would
inspan my oxen.

Having proceeded about ten miles, we arrived at
Koning: this was a vley of fine spring water, about
six hundred yards in length, densely covered with lofty
reeds from twelve to fifteen feet high. This place is
said never to be without lions. Here was spoor of
zebras and hartebeests. In the afternoon I observed
that my men were again in liquor. I had at first im-
agined that the Griquas had supplied them with brandy ;
but, upon examining my liquor-case, I discovered that
one had been broken into, and two bottles of brandy
stolen. This was a second night of anxiety and trouble.
I kept watch over my goods and cattle, with my rifle
in my hand, till morning. The night was piercingly
cold, and in the morning the ground was white with
hoar-frost, and a thick coating of ice covered the pools
of water. At mid-day on the 11th we left Koning, and
continued our march to Kuruman, halting at sundown
without water. On our left our view was bounded by
the Kamhanni Mountains, an extensive rocky chain.
In every other direction a vast endless plain extended
as far as the eye could strain. The plains were cover-
ed with rank yellow grass, interspersed with clumps of
gray-leaved bushes. Shortly before outspanning we
started three leopards that were consuming a duiker

196 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Throughout all this country game was very scarce.
Since crossing the Vaal, with the exception of feather-
ed game, I had shot only one springbok and one stein-
bok.

On the following day we reached Kuruman, or New
Ijitakoo, a lovely green spot in the wilderness, strongly
contrasting with the sterile and inhospitable regions by
which it is surrounded. I was here kindly welcomed
and hospitably entertained by Mr. Moffat and Mr.
Hamilton, both missionaries of the London Society,
and also by Mr. Hume, an old trader, long resident at
Kuruman. The gardens at Kuruman are extensive and
extremely fertile. Besides corn and vegetables, they
contained a great variety of fruits, among which were
vines, peach-trees, nectarines, apple, orange, and lemon
trees, all of which in their seasons bear a profusion of
the most delicious fruit. These gardens are irrigated
with the most liberal supply of water from a powerful
fountain which gushes forth, at once forming a little
river, from a subterraneous cave, which has several low
parrow mouths, but within is lofty and extensive.
This cave is stated by the natives to extend to a very
great distance under ground. The natives about Ku-
ruman and the surrounding districts generally embrace
the Christian religion. Mr. Moffat kindly showed me
through his printing establishment, church, and school-
rooms, which were lofty and well built, and altogether
on a scale which would not have disgraced one of the
towns of the more enlightened colony. It was Mr.
Moffat who reduced the Bechuana language to writing
and printing, since which he has printed thousands of
Sichuana Testaments, as also tracts and hymns, which
are now eagerly purchased by the converted natives.
Mr. Moffat is a person admirably calculated to excel

MR. MOFFAT THE MISSIONARY. 197

in his important calling. Together with a noble and
athletic frame, he possesses a face on which forbear-
ance and Christian charity are very plainly written, and
his mental and bodily attainments are great. Minis-
ter, gardener, blacksmith, gunsmith, mason, carpenter,
glazier — every hour of the day fmds this worthy pastor
engaged in some useful employment — setting, by his
own exemplary piety and industrious habits, a good ex-
ample to others to go and do likewise.

Mr. Moffat informed me that a missionary named
Dr. Livingstone, who was married to his eldest daugh-
ter, had lately established a missionary station among
the Bakatlas at Mabotsa, in the vale of Bakatla, about
fourteen days' journey to the northeast. Thither he
recommended me at once to proceed, as few of the
larger varieties of game could now be expected to be
found to the southward of Bakatla. He represented
to me that my falling in with elephants, even through-
out the vast forests in the country immediately beyond
Bakatla, was very uncertain, and recommended me, if
I was determined to have good elephant-shooting, to
endeavor to push on to the remote and endless forests
beyond the mountains of Bamangwato, in the territory
of Sicomy, the great and paramount chief of the extens-
ive country of the Bamangwato. There would also be
a probability of obtaining ivory in barter from Sicomy,
he being reported to possess large quantities of that
valuable commodity. By Mr. Moffat's assistance I en-
gaged a Bechuana in the capacity of interpreter in the
Dutch and Sichuana languages. From Mr. Hume I
purchased a supply of wheat; and on the following day
I set all my people to work on a mill of Mr. Moffat's
to reduce this wheat to flour.

On the 15th I took leave of my friends at Kuruman,

198 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

and continued my journey in a northeasterly course
through a heavy sandy country of boundless level plains,
stretching away on every side, covered with rank yel-
low grass, which, waving in the breeze, imparted the
idea of endless fields of ripe corn. At sundown we
crossed the Matluarin River, an insignificant stream,
and encamped on its northern bank. On the march
we saw a few blue wildebeests and ostriches. At dawn
of day on the following morning we pursued our jour-
ney through the same description of country, varied,
however, with detached clumps of thorny mimosas. On
the march we crossed a swarm of locusts, resting for
the night on the grass and bushes. They lay so thick
that the wagons could have been filled with them in a
very short time, covering the large bushes just as a
swarm of young bees covers the branch on wdiich it
pitches. Locusts afford fattening and wholesome food
to man, birds, and all sorts of beasts ; cows and horses,
lions, jackals, hyaenas, antelopes, elephants, &c., de-
vour them. We met a party of Batlapis carrying heavy
burdens of them on their backs. Our hungry dogs made
a fine feast on them. The cold frosty night had ren-
dered them unable to take wing until the sun should
restore their powers. As it was difficult to obtain
sufficient food for my dogs, I and Isaac took a large
blanket, which we spread under a hush, whose branches
were bent to the ground with the mass of locusts which
covered it; and having shaken the branches, in an in-
stant I had more locusts than I could carry on my back :
these we roasted for ourselves and dogs.

Soon after the sun was up, on looking behind me, I
beheld the locusts stretching to the west in vast clouds,
resembling smoke; but the wind, soon after veering
round, brought them back to us, and they flew over our

THE BECHUANA TRIBES. 19S

heads, for some time actually darkening the sun. In
the evening I continued my march by moonlight, and
halted within a few miles of Motito, an extensive kraal
of the Batlapis, a tribe of Bechuanas. The nights were
piercing cold, the grass being every morning covered
with white frost.

CHAPTER XL

Motito — The Bechuana Tribes — The mysterious gi-eat inland Lake —
Blesbok and Wildebeest abundant — Park-like Country — We arrive
at the beautiful Vale of Bakatla — Dr. Livingstone, the Missionary —
Native Fashions at Church — Determine to push on to Bamangwato —
The Natives follow me for Venison — Great Variety of Game — A dan
gerous Fight with a Herd of Buffaloes, two of which are slain — A
Colony of Baboons — A Rhinoceros chases me round a Bush — Habits
of the Beast — A noble Eland killed — An impromptu Steak — Slay a
Rhinoceros, and lose my Way in the Forest.

At an early hour on the 17th I outspanned at Mo-
tito, where I was kindly received by Monsieur Loga
and Mr. Edwards, the former a French missionary sta-
tioned at Motito, and the latter an English missionary
from Mabotza. Another French missionary, named
Monsieur Lemue, belonging to the station, was absent.
The women at Motito wear heavier ornaments of beads
than any with whom I am acquainted. As I have now
reached the southern borders of that vast tract of South-
ern Africa inhabited by the numerous tribes of the Be-
chuanas, it will be necessary, before proceeding further,
to give a sketch of their manners and customs. They
arc a lively and intelligent race of people, and remark-
able for their good humor : they are well formed, if not

200 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

starved in infancy. They possess pleasing features,
and very fine eyes and teeth ; their hair is short and
w^ooUy ; the color of their complexion is of a light cop-
per. The various tribes live in kraals, or villages, of
various sizes, along with their respective chiefs. Their
wigwams are built in a circular form, and thatched
with long grass ; the floor and wall, inside and out, are
plastered with a compound of clay and cow-dung. The
entrances arc about three feet high and two feet broad.
Each wigwam is surrounded with a hedge of wicker-
work, while one grand hedge of wait-a-bit thorns sur-
rounds the entire kraal, protecting the inmates from
lions and other animals.

The dress of the men consists of a kaross, or skin
cloak, which hangs gracefully from their shoulders ;
and another garment, termed tsecha, which encircles
their loins, and is likewise made of skin. On their
feet they wear a simple sandal formed of the skin of
the buffalo or camelopard. On their legs and arms
they carry ornaments of brass and copper of different
patterns, which are manufactured by themselves. The
men also wear a few ornaments of beads round their
necks and on their arms. Around tlieir necks, besides
beads, they carry a variety of other appendages, the
majority of which are believed to possess a powerful
charm to preserve them from evil. One of these is a
small hollow bone, through which they blow when in
peril ; another is a set of dice, formed of ivory, which
they rattle in their hands and cast on the ground to
ascertain if they are to be lucky in any enterprise in
which they may be about to engage ; also a host of
bits of root and bark which are medicinal. From their
necks also depend gourd snuff-boxes made of an ex-
tremely diminutive species of pumpkin, trained to grow

DRESS OF THE BECHUANAS. 201

in a bottle-like shape. They never move without their
arms, which consist of a shield, a bundle of assagais, a
battle-ax, and a knobkerry. The shields are formed
of the hide of the buffalo or camelopard ; their shape
among some tribes is oval, among others round. The
assagai is a sort of light spear or javelin, having a
w^ooden shaft about six feet in length attached to it.
Some of these are formed solely for throwing, and a
skillful warrior will send one through a man's body at
one hundred yards. Another variety of assagai is form-
ed solely for stabbing. The blades of these are stouter,
and the shafts shorter and thicker, than the other va-
riety. They are found mostly among the tribes very
far in the interior. Their battle-axes are elegantly
formed, consisting of a triangular-shaped blade, fasten-
ed in a handle formed of the horn of the rhinoceros.
The men employ their time in war and hunting, and
in dressing the skins of wild animals. The dress of
the women consists of a kaross depending from the
shoulders, and a short kilt formed of the skin of the
pallah, or some other antelope. Around their necks,
arms, waists, and ankles they wear large and cumbrous
coils of beads of a variety of colors, tastefully arranged
in different patterns. The women chiefly employ their
time in cultivating their fields and gardens, in which
they rear corn, pumpkins, and water-melons, and like-
wise in harvesting their crops and grinding their corn.
Both men and women go bareheaded : they anoint
their heads with " sibelo," a shining composition, being
a mixture of fat and a gray sparkling ore, having the
appearance of mica. Some of the tribes besmear their
bodies with a mixture of fat and red clay, imparting
to them the appearance of Red Indians. Most of the
tribes possess cattle ; these are attended to and milked

12

202 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

solely by the men, a woman being never allowed to set
foot within the cattle-kraal. Polygamy is allowed-, and
any man may keep as many wives as he pleases : the
wife, however, has in the first instance to be purchased.
Among tribes possessed of cattle, the price of a wife is
ten head of cattle ; but among the poorer tribes a wifo
may be obtained for a few spades with which they cul-
tivate their fields. These spades, which are manufac-
tured by themselves, are fastened in the end of a long
shaft, and are used as our laborers use the hoe. Rows
of women may be seen digging together in the fields
singing songs, to which they keep time with their spades.
The name of the chief at Motito was Motchuara, a
subordinate of the great chief Mahura. He was very
anxious that I should remain a day with him, for the
purpose of trading in ostrich feathers and karosses ;
but, being anxious to push forward, I resumed my
march in the afternoon, and trekked on till near mid-
night, when I encamped in an extensive forest of gray
and ancient-looking cameel-dorn trees. These were
the finest I had yet seen in Africa, each tree assuming
a wide-spreading and picturesque appearance. They
were detached and in groups, like oaks in an English
deer-park. Many of them were inhabited by whole
colonies of the social grosbeak, a bird with whose won-
derful habitations the branches were loaded. These
remarkable birds, which are about the size and appear-
ance of the British green-finch, construct their nests and
live socially together under one common roof, the whole
fabric being formed of dry grass, and exhibiting at a
short distance the appearance of a haycock stuck up in
the tree. The entrances to the nests are from beneath.
They are built side by side, and when seen from below
resemble a honey-rrimt

MYSTERIOUS INLAND LAKE. 203

At dawn of day on the following morning we con-
tinued our march through the venerable cameel-dorn
forest. The road was extremely heavy, consisting of
*^ft, loose sand. Having proceeded about six miles,
f;merging from the forest, we entered once more on a
<?vide-spreading open country, covered in some parts
ivith bushes, and in others only with grass. Another
hour brought us to Little Chooi, a large salt-pan,
where we obtained water for ourselves and cattle from
a deep pit made by men. In sight were a few zebras,
ostriches, and springboks. In the forenoon a number
of cattle, belonging to Mahura, came to drink at the
pit. Some of these carried enormous wide-spreading
horns. Mahura and his tribe possess immense herds
of cattle, the majority of which they '• lifted" or obtain-
ed in war from other Bechuana tribes. Some years
before this, Mahura, assisted by another tribe, had at-
tacked Sobiqua, king of the Bawangketse, a tribe in-
habiting the borders of the great Kalahari desert, whom
they routed, and succeeded in driving off the majority
of their vast herds. Upon this, Sobiqua and his tribe
fled with the remainder of the cattle across a portion
of the desert to the westward, and for some years lo-
cated themselves on the borders of a vast inland lake.
This mysterious lake the natives in the vale of Bakatla
state to be situated due west from their position, while
the natives of Bamangwato, situated two hundred and
fifty miles to the northward, always pointed out to me
the northwest as its position. They represented to me
that the natives on its banks were possessed of canoes ;
that its waters w*ere salt ; and that every day the wa-
ters retired to feed, and again returned, by which I un-
derstood that this lake, whatever it may be, is afTccted
by some tide.

204 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

At 3 P.M. we inspanned, and held on till midnight
with fine moonlight, crossing a desert and sandy coun-
try. In the vicinity of Chooi we passed an extensive
range of old pitfalls, formed by the natives for entrap-
ping game. They were dug in the form of a crescent,
and occupied an extent of nearly a quarter of a mile.
On the march I observed some enormous trunks of
trees that had been destroyed by fire in by-gone years.
On the following day we reached Loharon, an uninter-
esting and desolate spot, where we encamped for the
day beside a pool of rain water. Here I observed a
few hartebeests, sassaybies, and zebras. On the 20th,
having breakfasted, we inspanned, and continued our
march till sunset. We passed through a very level
country, covered with detached bushes. The dullness
of the scene, however, was enlivened by a wondrous
flight of locusts, the largest I had ever beheld. The
prospect was obscured by them as far as we could see,
resembling the smoke arising from a thousand giant
bonfires ; while those above our heads darkened our
path with a double flight — the one next the ground
flying north, while the upper clouds of them held a
southerly course. The dogs, as usual, made a hearty
meal on them.

We continued our march by moonlight, halting at
midnight in a vast open plain beside a small pool of
rain water. After breakfast I rode forth in quest of
springboks, of which I bagged a couple. I fell in with
blue and black wildebeests, zebras, ostriches, and bles-
boks. The plains here were bare and open, resembling
the country frequented by the blesboke to the southward
of the Vaal, with which country I subsequently ascer-
tained it to be connected, in a due southerly course, by
an endless succession of similar bar' plains, throughout

ACCIDENT REMAINS OF A RHINOCEROS. 205

the entire extent of which the blesbok and black wilde-
beest are abundant. While galloping after a herd of
zebras, " The Immense Brute" put his foot into a hole,
and came down with great violence on his head, pitch-
ing me over his bows. I saved my rifle at the risk of
sacrificing my collar-bone, and would have escaped
without further injury than the loss of a portion of the
bark of my cheek, had not my horse described a somer-
sault, coming down with the broad of his back on the
calf of my right leg, and bruising it so severely as to
incapacitate me from walking for several days. About
mid-day we resumed our march, and in the evening we
reached Great Chooi, a very large salt-pan at present
full of water. Here I found, for the first time, the
bones and skull of a rhinoceros long killed. My inter-
preter informed me that the rhinoceros had long left
that country ; to his surprise, however, we discovered
fresh spoor by the fountain. Continuing our march,
on the 22d we entered on a new description of country ;
boundless open plains being succeeded by endless forests
of dwarfish trees and bushes, the ground shghtly undu-
lating, and covered with a variety of rich grasses and
aromatic herbs. The old and seldom-trodden wagon-
track which we followed seemed a favorite foot-path for
a troop of lions, their large and heavy spoor being deeply
imprinted in our path. At sundown we encamped on
the Siklagole River, a periodical stream, in the gravelly
bed of which fine spring water could be obtained by
digging. As we were in great want of flesh, my hun-
gry pack being nearly starving, I resolved to rest my
oxen on the following day, and hunt for eland, the spoor
of several of which wo discovered beside our encamp-
ment.

On the morning of the 23d I rode east with after-

S06 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

riders and a pack-horse. The country through which
we passed resembled a vast interminable park, being
adorned with a continued succession of picturesque
dwarfish forest-trees single and in groups. Such, with
the exception of a few grassy open plains, is the char-
acter of the country from Siklagole, as far as the mount-
ains of Bakatla, which we reached on the 31st. Hav-
ing crossed these, we proceeded up a valley about three
miles, when we reached a gorge in the mountains
which connected this fine valley with the great strath
or vale of Bakatla. Through this gorge ran a stream
of the purest crystal water. Our road lay along the
margin of this stream, across large masses of stone and
ledges of rock, which threatened every moment the de-
struction of our wagons.

Following the stream for half a mile, we arrived at
Mabotza, the kraal of Mosielely, king of the Bakatlas,
a tribe of Bechuanas. Here I was kindly received by
Dr. Livingstone, the resident missionary. The vale of
Bakatla, which I had now reached, is one of the most
beautiful spots in Africa. It is a broad and level strath,
extending from east to west, and bounded by picturesquo
rocky mountains, beautifully wooded to their summits.
In parts the strath is adorned with groves and patches
of beautiful forest-trees of endless variety ; in others it
is open, carpeted with a goodly coating of luxuriant
grass. A large portion of the valley, opposite to the
town, is cultivated by the Bakatla women, and a suc-
cession of extensive corn-fields stretched away to the
northward of the kraal. These had lately been denuded
of their crops, but a goodly show of pumpkins and
water-melons still remained in the fields. The follow-
ing day was Sunday, and I attended Divine service in
a temporary place of worship that had been erected by

INTERVIEW "WITH MOSIELELY. 207

the missionaries. It \Yas amusing to remarA, in the
costume of the Bakatlas on this occasion, the progress
of the march of civilization. All those who had man-
aged to get hold of some European article of dress had
donned it, some appearing in trowsers without shirts,
and others in shirts without trowsers.

The 2d of June was the coldest day I had experienced
in Africa, a cutting cold wind blowing oft' the Southern
Ocean. On the morning of the 2d I was waited upon
Dy Mosielely, attended by a number of his nobility and
others of the tribe, who flocked around my wagons im-
portunately requesting snufF. The appearance of the
chief was mild, but not dignified. One of his generals,
with whom he seemed to be on very intimate terms,
was a jolly-looking old warrior with a wall eye, and a
face strongly marked with the small-pox. This man's
name was " Siemi." He had killed about twenty men
in battle with his own hand, and bore a mark of honor
for every man. This mark was a line tattooed on his
ribs. Mosielely presented me with a bag of sour milk,
and requested that I would tarry with him for a few
days for the purpose of trading. I informed him that
I was now anxious to push on to the country of the ele-
phants, but would trade with him on my return. This
intimation seemed very much to disappoint the king,
who was anxious to exchange karosses for guns and
ammunition. But I had resolved to part with my mus-
kets solely for ivory, which article Mosielely on this
particular occasion did not possess.*

* The Bakatlas wosk a gi-eat deal in iron, manufacturing various ar-
ticles, with which they supply the neighboring tribes. They obtain
their iron from ore, which they procure by excavating in the surround-
ing mountains. This ore is smelted in crucibles, a great deal of the
metal being wasted, and only the best and purest being preserved.
They use a sort of double bellows, consisting of two hags of skin, by

208 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Dr. Livingstone informed me that large game was
abundant on all sides to the northward of Bakatla. He
stated that herds of elephants occasionally visited the
territories of the adjoining chiefs, sometimes frequent-
ing a district for half a summer, but that at present he
was not aware of any elephants in the forests adjacent
to Bakatla, He represented the distant and unexplored
forests beyond Bamangwato, the territory of Sicomy,
as being allowed by the natives to be the country where
elephants were at all times abundant. There was also
a prospect of obtaining there ivory in barter for my
muskets. I accordingly resolved, in the first instance,
to direct my attention mainly to elephants, and not to
tarry in any district, however favorable, for the purpose
of hunting other varieties of game. Dr. Livingstone
stated that I should experience considerable difficulty
in reaching Bamangwato, since there was no path nor
track of any description to guide me thither. My only
chance of getting there seemed to depend on being able
to obtain Bechuana guides from Caachy, a subordinate
chief of a branch of the "Baquaina" tribe, then resident
at a place called " Booby," situated about eighty miles
to the northwest of Bakatla. Without these guides it
would be almost impossible to proceed, as the waters
were few and very far between. The probability, how-
ever, was, that these guides would be refused, since it

which the air is forced through the long, tapering tubes of the two
horns of the oryx. The person using the bellows squats between the
two bags, which he raises and depresses alternately, working one with
each hand. Their hammer and anvil consist of two stones. They nev-
ertheless contrive to turn very neat workmanship out of their hands,
such as spears, battle-axes, assagais, knives, sewing-needles, &.c. The
men of this tribe also manufacture large wooden bowls, which they cut
out of the solid piece, the tool they use for this purpose being a small
implement shaped like an adze.

START FOR BAMANGWATO. 209

is the invariable policy of A.frican chiefs to prevent all
travelers from penetrating beyond themselves.

Baraangwato is distant upward of two hundred miles
to the northward of Bakatla, from which it is separated
by rugged and apparently impassable mountain ranges,
extensive sandy deserts, which are destitute of water,
and vast and trackless forests. Isaac, my interpreter,
already began to lose heart, and raised a thousand ob-
jections to my proceeding to so distant a country. He
recommended my rather hunting in the territory of
" Sichely," the paramount chief of the Baquaines, sit-
uated about fifty miles to the north of Bakatla, where
he assured me we should find elephants. Perceiving
that his remonstrances did not avail, and that I was in-
exorable, he proposed resigning his commission, and
was with difficulty prevailed on by Dr. Livingstone to
agree to accompany me further.

On the 3d I took leave of my kind friend Dr. Liv-
ingstone, and started for Bamangwato. I was accom-
panied by a large party of the Bakatla men and two
Baquaines. They followed me in the hope of obtain-
ing flesh, a report having spread through the tribe that
I was a successful hunter. The Bechuanas are ex-
tremely fond of flesh, which they consider the only food
befitting men. Corn and milk they reckon the food of
women. Having no flesh at home, a-nd being seldom
able to kill large game for themselves, they entertain
great respect for those who kill plenty of venison for
them, and they will travel to very great distances for
the purpose of obtaining it. We proceeded in a west-
erly course, and held up the lovely valley of Bakatla,
through open glades and patches of ancient forests.

I had ridden only a short distance across the valley
when I fell in v/ith a troop of blue wildebeests, one of

210 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

which I wounded and immediately lost in rocky ground.
I then rode on, and crossed a ridge of stony hills cov-
ered with thick jungle, after which I entered upon an-
other grassy and well- wooded valley. Presently I ob-
served seven majestic buck koodoos standing on the
mountain side high above me. In trying to stalk these
I disturbed a troop of graceful pallahs and a herd of
zebras, which clattered along the mountain, and spoiled
my stalk with the koodoos. I now observed a large
herd of buffaloes reclining under a clump of mimosa-
trees a little further up the valley. Descending from
my position, I secured my horse to a tree, and proceed-
ed to stalk in on the buffaloes. While I was doing this,
a herd of zebras, which I had not observed, got my wind
and came cantering through the cover within a few
yards of me. When I reached the spot where I had
seen the buffaloes, they were gone.

Early on the 4th we inspanned and continued our
march for Booby, a large party of savages still follow-
ing the wagons. Before proceeding far I was tempted
by the beautiful appearance of the country to saddle
horses to hunt in the mountains westward of my course.
I directed the wagons to proceed a few miles under
guidance of the natives, and there await my arrival. I
was accompanied by Isaac, who was mounted on the
Old Gray, and carried my clumsy Dutch rifle of six to
the pound. Two Bechuanas followed us, leading four
of my dogs. Having crossed a well- wooded strath, we
reached a little crystal river, whose margin was tram-
pled down with the spoor of a great variety of heavy
game, but especially of buffalo and rhinoceros. We
took up the spoor of a trcop of buflaloes, which we fol-
lowed along a path made by the heavy beasts of the
forest through a neck in the hills ; and, emerging from

A BUFFALO CHASE 211

the thicket, we beheld, on the other side of a valley
which had opened upon us, a herd of about ten huge
bull buffaloes. These I attempted to stalk, but was
defeated by a large herd of zebras, which, getting our
wind, charged past and started the buffaloes. I ordered
the Bechuanas to release the dogs; and spurring Coles-
berg, which I rode for the first time since the affair
with the lioness, I gave chase. The buffaloes crossed
the valley in front of me, and made for a succession of
dense thickets in the hills to the northward. As they
crossed the valley, by riding hard I obtained a broad-
side shot at the last bull, and fired both barrels into him.
He, however, continued his course, but I presently sep-
arated him, along with two other bulls, from the troop.
My rifle being a two-grooved, which is hard to load, I
was unable to do so on horseback, and followed with it
empty, in the hope of bringing them to bay. In passing
through a grove of thorny trees I lost sight of the wound-
ed buffalo; he had turned short and doubled back, a
common practice with them when wounded. After fol-
lowing the other two at a hard gallop for about two
miles, 1 was riding within five yards of their huge
broad sterns. They exhaled a strong bovine smell,
which came hot in my face. I expected every minute
that they would come to bay, and give me time to
load ; but this they did not seem disposed to do. At
length, finding I had the speed of them, I increased my
pace ; and going ahead, I placed myself right before the
finest bull, thus expecting to force him to stand at bay;
upon which he instantly charged me with a low roar,
very similar to the voice of a lion. Colesberg neatly
avoided the charge, and the bull resumed his northward
course. We now entered on rocky ground, and the for-
est became more dense as we proceeded. The buffa-

212 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

loes were evidently making for some strong retreat. I,
however, managed with much difficulty to hold them
in view, following as best I could through thorny thick-
ets. Isaac rode some hundred yards behind, and kept
shouting to me to drop the pursuit, or I should be kill-
ed. At last the buffaloes suddenly pulled up, and stood
at bay in a thicket within twenty yards of me. Spring-
ing from my horse, I hastily loaded my two-grooved
rifle, which I had scarcely completed when Isaac rode
up and inquired what had become of the buffaloes, lit-
tle dreaming that they were standing within twenty
yards of him. I answered by pointing my rifle across
his horse's nose, and letting fly sharp right and left at
the two buffaloes. A headlong charge, accompanied
by a rauflled roar, was the result. In an instant I was
round a clump of tangled thorn-threes ; but Isaac, by
the violence of his efforts to get his horse in motion,
lost his balance, and at the same instant, his girths giv-
ing way, himself, his saddle, and big Dutch rifle, all
came to the ground together, with a heavy crash, right
in the path of the infuriated buffaloes. Two of the
dogs, which had fortunately that moment joined us, met
them in their charge, and, by diverting their attention,
probably saved Isaac from instant destruction. The
buffaloes now took up another position in an adjoining
thicket. They were both badly wounded, blotches and
pools of blood marking the ground where they had stood.
The dogs rendered me assistance by taking up their at-
tention, and in a few minutes these two noble bulls
breathed their last beneath the shade of a mimosa
grove. Each of them, in dying, repeatedly uttered a
very striking, low, deep moan. This I subsequently
ascertained the buffalo invariably utters when in the
act of expiring.

IMMENSE HORNS OF THE BUFFxVLO. 213

On going up to them, I was astonished to behold their
size and powerful appearance. Their horns reminded
me of the rugged trunk of an oak-tree. Each horn
was upward of a foot in breadth at the base, and to-
gether they effectually protected the skull with a mass-
ive and impenetrable shield. The horns, descending,
and spreading out horizontally, completely overshad-
owed the animal's eyes, imparting to him a look the
most ferocious and sinister that can be imagined. On
my way to the wagons I shot a stag sassayby, and while
I was engaged in removing his head a troop of about
thirty doe pallahs cantered past me, followed by one
princely old buck. Snatching up my rifle, I made a
fine shot, and rolled him over in the grass.

Early in the afternoon I dispatched men with a pack-
horse to bring the finer of the two buffalo-heads. It
was so ponderous that two powerful men could with dif-
ficulty raise it from the ground. The Bechuanas who
had accompanied me, on hearing of my success, snatch-
ed up their shields and assagais, and hastened to secure
the flesh, nor did I see any more of them, with the ex-
ception of the two Baquaines, who remained with me,
being engaged in a plot with my interpreter to prevent
my penetrating to Bamangwato. Isaac did not soon
forget his adventure with the bufTaloes; and at night,
over the fire, he informed my men that I was mad, and
that any man who followed me was going headlong to
his own destruction. At an early hour on the oth 1
continued my march through a glorious country of hill
and dale, throughout which water was abundant.

Beautifully wooded hills and mountains stretched
away on every side; some of the mountains were par-
ticularly grand and majestic, their summits being sur-
rounded by steep precipices and abrupt parapets of

214 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

rock, the abodes of whole colonies of black-faced bab-
oons, which, astonished to behold such novel intruders
upon their domains, leisurely descended the craggy
mountain sides for a nearer inspection of our caravan.
Seating themselves together upon a broad ledge, they
seemed to hold a council as to the propriety of jiermit-
ting us to proceed further through their territories. Hav-
ing advanced about nine miles, I drew up my wagons
on the bank of a rivulet, where the spoor of large game
was extremely abundant. In the bed of the stream
I discovered the scaly sidn of a manis, which had been
newly eaten by some bird of prey. This extraordinary
animal, which in its habits partakes of the nature of
the hedgehog, is about three feet in length, and is cov-
ered all over with an impenetrable coat of mail, con-
sisting of large rough scales about the size and shape
of the husk of an artichoke ; these overlap one another
in an extraordinary and very beautiful manner. Its
tail is broad, and likewise' covered with scales ; on be-
ing disturbed it rolls itself into a ball. The manis is
met with throughout the interior of South Africa, but
it is rare and very seldom seen.

It was on the 4th of June that I beheld for the first
time the rhinoceros. Having taken some coffee, I rode
out unattended, with my rifle, and before proceeding
far I fell in with a huge white rhinoceros with a large
calf, standing in a thorny grove. Getting my wind,
she set off" at top speed through thick thorny bushes,
the calf, as is invariably the case, taking the lead, and
the mother guiding its course by placing her horn, gen-
erally about three feet in length, against its ribs. My
horse shied very much at first, alarmed at the strange
appearance of " Chukuroo," but by a sharp application
of spur and jambok I prevailed upon him to follow, and

HU^'TING THE RHINOCEROS. 215

presently, the ground improving, I got alongside, and,
firing at the gallop, sent a bullet through her shoulder.
She continued her pace with blood streaming from the
wound, and very soon reached an impracticable thorny
jungle, where I could not follow, and instantly lost her.
In half an hour I fell in with a second rhinoceros, be-
ing an old bull of the white variety. Dismounting, I
crept within twenty yards, ^id saluted him with both
barrels in the shoulder, upon which he made off, utter-
ing a loud blowing noise, and upsetting every thing
that obstructed his progress.

Shortly after this I found myself on the banks of the
stream beside which my wagons were outspanned.
Following along its margin, I presently beheld a bull
of the borele, or black rhinoceros, standing within a
hundred yards of me. Dismounting from my horse, I
secured him to a tree, and then stalked within twenty
yards of the huge beast, under cover of a large, strong
bush. Borele, hearing me advance, came on to see
what it was, and suddenly protruded his horny nose
within twenty yards of me. Knowing well that a front
shot would not prove deadly, I sprang to my feet and
ran behind the bush. Upon this the villain charged,
blowing loudly, and chased me round the bush. Had
his activity been equal to his ugliness, my wanderings
would have terminated here, but by my superior agili-
ty I had the advantage in the turn. After standing a
short time eyeing me through the bush, he got a whifF
of my wind, which at once alarmed him. Uttering a
blowing noise, and erecting his insignificant yet saucy-
looking tail, he wheeled about, leaving me master of
the field, when I sent a bullet through his ribs to teach
him manners.*

• Of the rhinoceros there are four varieties in South Africa, distin

216 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Finding that rhinoceroses were abundant in the vi
cinity, I resolved to halt a day for the purpose of hunt

guished by the Bechuanas by the names of the borele, or black rhinoc-
eros, the keitloa, or two-horned black rhinoceros the muchocho, or
common white rhinoceros, and the kobaoba, or long-horned white rhi'
noceros. Both varieties of the black rhinoceros are extremely fiert
and dangerous, and rush headlong and unprovoked at any object whic\
attracts their attention. They never attain much fat, auil their flesh ia
tough, and not much esteemed by the Bechuanas. Their food consists
almost entirely of the thorny branches of the wait-a-bit thorns. Their
horns are much shorter than those of the other varieties, seldom ex-
ceeding eighteen inches in length. They are finely polished with con-
stant rubbing against the trees. The skull is remarkably formed, its
most striking feature being the tremendous thick ossification in which
it ends above the nostrils. It is on this mass that the horn is supported.
The bonis are not connected with the skull, being attached merely by
the skin, and they may thus be separated from the head by means of a
shai-p knile. They are hard and perfectly solid throughout, and are a
fine material for various articles, such as driuking-cups, mallets for rifles,
handles for turner's tools, &c., &c. The horn is capable of a very high
polish. The eyes of the rhinoceros are sinall and spai'kling, and do not
readily observe the hunter, provided he keeps to leeward of them
The skin is extremely thick, and only to be penetrated c» bullets hard
ened with solder. During the day ihe rhinoceros will be found lying
asleep or standing indolently in some retired part of the forest, or undei
the base of the mountains, sheltered from thepow'Cr of the sun by some
friendly grove of umbrella-topped mimosas. In the evening they com-
mence their nightly ramble, and wander over a great extent of coun-
try. Tney usually visit the fountains between the hmu-s of nine ai.d
twelve o'clock at night, and it is on these occasions that they may be
most successfully hunted, and with the least danger. The black rhinoc-
eros is subject to paroxysms of unprovoked fury, often plowing up the
ground for several yards with its honis, and assaulting large bushes in
the most violent manner. On these bushes they work for hours with
their horns, at the same time snorting and blowuig loudly, nor do they
leave them in general until they have broken them into pieces. The
rhinoceros is supposed by many, and by myself among the rest, to be
the animal alluded to by Job, cliap. xxxix., verses 10 and 11, where it
is written, " Canst thou bind the unicorn with his band in the fuiTow ?
or will he harrow the valleys after thee 7 Wilt thou tnist him because
hia strength is great? or wilt thou leave thy labor to him?" evidently
alluding to an animal possessed of gi-eat strength and of untamable
disposition, for both of which the rhinoceros is remarkable. All tha
four varieties delight to roll and wallow in mad, with which their rug-

HABITS OF THE RHINOCEROS A BULL ELANU. 217

ing, and after an early breakfast on the 6tli I rode
southeast with the two Baqi^iaines. They led me along
the bases of the mountains, through woody dells and
open glades, and ws eventually reached a grand forest
gray with age. Here we found abundance of spoor of
a variety of game, and started several herds of the more
common varieties. At length I observed an old bull
eland standing under a tree. He was the first that I
had seen, and was a noble specimen, standing about six
feet high at the shoulder. Observing us, he made off
at a gallop, springing over the trunks of decayed trees
which lay across his path; but very soon he reduced

jsd hides are generally iucrusted. Both varieties of the black rhmoc-
ei'os are much smaller aud more active than the white, and are so swift
that a horse with a rider on his back can rarely overtake them. Tho
two varieties of the white rhinoceros are so similar in habits, that the
description of one will serve for both, the principal difference consist-
ing in the length and set of the anterior horn; that of the muchocho
averaging from two to three feet in length, and pointing backward,
while the honi of the kobaoba often exceeds four feet in length, and
inclines forward from the nose at an angle of forty-five degrees. The
posterior horn of either species seldom exceeds six or seven inches in
length. The kobaoba is the rai'er of the two, and it is found very far
in the interior, chiefly to the eastward of the Limpopo. Its horns are
very valuable for loading rods, supplying a substance at once suitable
for a sporting implement and excellent for the purpose. Both these
vai-ieties of rhinoceros attain an enormous size, being the animals next
in magnitude to the elephant. They feed solely on grass, carry much
fat, and their flesh is excellent, being preferable to beef. They are of
a much milder and more inoffensive disposition than the black rhinoc-
eros, rarely charging their pursuer. Their speed is very inferior to
that of the other varieties, and a person well mounted can overtake
and shoot them. The head of these is a foot longer than that of the
borele. They generally cany their heads low, whereas the borele.
when disturbed, carries his very high, which imparts to him a saucy
and independent air. Unlike the elephants, they never associate in
herds, but are met with singly or in pairs. In districts where they are
abundant, from three to six may be found in company, and I once saw
upward of a dozen congregated together on some young grass, but such
an occurrence is rai-e.

Vol. 1.— K

218 ADVENTURES O SOUTH AFRICA.

his pace to a trot. Spurring my horse, another mo-
ment saw me riding hard behind him. Twice in the
thickets I lost sight of him, and he very nearly escaped
me; but at length, the ground improving, I came up
with him, and rode within a few yards behind him.
Long streaks of foam now streamed from his mouth,
and a profuse perspiration had changed his sleelc gray
coat to an ashy blue. Tears trickled from his large
dark eye, and it was plain that the eland's hours were
numbered. Pitching my rifle to my shoulder, I let fly
at the gallop, and mortally wounded him behind ; then
spurring my horse, I shot past him on his right side,
and discharged my other barrel behind his shoulder,
when the eland staggered for a moment and subsided
in the dust.* The two Baquaines soon made their ap-
pearance, and seemed delighted at my success. Hav-
ing kindled a fire, they cut out steaks, which they
roasted on the embers: I also cooked a steak for my-

* This magnificent aninaal is by far the largest of all the antelope
tribe, exceeding a large ox in size. It also attains an extraordinary
condition, being often burdened with a very large amount of fat. Its
flesh is most excellent, and is justly esteemed above all others. It lias
a peculiar sv^'eetness, and is tender and fit for use the moment the ani-
mal is killed. Like the gemsbok, the eland is independent of water,
and frequents the borders of the great Kalahari desert in herds varying
from ten to a hundred. It is also generally diffused throughout all tlie
wooded districts of the interior where I hunted. Like odier varieties
of deer and antelope, the old males may often be found consorting to.
gether apart from the females, and a troop of these, when in full con-
dition, may be likened to a herd of stall-fed oxen. The eland has less
speed than any other variety of antelope ; and, by judicious riding, they
may be driven to camp from a great distance. In this manner I liave
often ridden the best bull out of the herd, and brought him within gun-
shot of my wagons, wliere I could more conveniently cut up and pre-
serve the flesh, without the trouble of sending men and pack-oxen to
fetch it. I have repeatedly seen an eland drop down dead at the end
oi a severe chase, owing to his plethoric habit. The skin of the eland
1 had just shot emitted, like most other ante] jpes, the most delicious
perfume of trees and grass.

SHOOT A WHITE RHINOCEROS, 219

self, spitting it upon a forked branch, the other end of
which I sharpened with my knife and stuck into the
ground.

Havirig eaten my steak, I rode to my wagons, where
I partook of coffee, and, having mounted a fresh horse,
again set forth, accompanied by Carollus leading a pack-
horse, to bring home the head of the eland and a sup-
ply of the flesh : I took all my dogs along with me to
share in the banquet. We had not proceeded far when
the dogs went ahead on some scent. Spurring my
horse, I followed through the thorny bushes as best I
might, and, emerging on an open glade, beheld two
huge white rhinoceroses trotting along before me. The
dogs attacked them with fury, and a scene of intense
excitement ensued. The Old Gray, on observing them,
pricked up his ears and seemed only half inclined to
follow, but a sharp application of the spur reminded
him of his duty, and I was presently riding within ten
yards of the stern of the largest, and sent a bullet
through her back. The Old Gray shied considerably
and became very unmanageable, and on one occasion,
in consequence, the rhinoceros, finding herself hemmed
in by a bend in a water-course, turned round to charge :
I had a very narrow escape. Presently, galloping up
on one side, I gave her a bad wound in the shoulder,
soon after which she came to bay in the dry bed of a
river. Dismounting from my horse, I commenced load-
ing, but before this was accomplished she was off once
more. I followed her, putting on my caps as I rode,
and coming up alongside, I made a fine shot from the
saddle, firing at the gallop. The ball entered some-
where near her heart. On receiving this shot she reeled
about, while torrents of blood streamed from her mouth
and wounds, and presently she rolled over and expired,

220 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

uttering a shrill screaming sound as she died, which
rhinoceroses invariably do while in the agonies of death.
The chase had led me close in along the northern
base of a lofty detached mountain, the highest in all that
country. This mountain is called by the Bechuanas
the Mountain of the Eagles. The eland which I had
shot in the morning lay somewhere to the southward
of this mountain, but far in the level forest. Having
rounded the mountain, I began to recognize the ground,
and presently I had the satisfaction to behold a few
vultures soaring over the forest in advance, and, on
proceeding a short distance further, large groups of
these birds were seated on the gray and weather-beaten
branches of the loftiest old trees of the forest. This
was a certain sign that the eland was not far distant;
and on raising my voice and loudly calling on the name
of Carollus, I was instantly answered by that individ-
ual, who, heedless of his master's fate, was actively
employed in cooking for himself a choice steak from
the dainty rump of the eland. That night I slept be-
neath the blue and starry canopy of heaven. My sleep
was light and sweet, and no rude dreams or hankering
cares disturbed the equanimity of my repose.

THE HORN OF THE RHINOCEROS. 221

CHAPTER XII.

My Hottentots object to advance further into the Interior — A Boar
Hunt — We march through a charming Country — The Mountain Pass
of Sesetabie — A Lion and Lioness inspect my Cattle, and the Lion
pays for peeping — Hungry Hyaenas sup upon the Cattle Furniture —
The Camelopard — Description of its Habits — Booby, a Bechuana
Kraal — Gun Medicine — Disastrous Finale to an Incantation — Native
Conspiracy to prevent my further Progress.

At an early hour on the 7th we arose, and, having
loaded the pack-horse with a burden of flesh and fat, I
dispatched one of the Baquaines with him to camp.
Carollus and I then rode for the rhinoceros to secure
the horn. On nearing the carcass, a noble bull buffalo
stood within thirty yards of me, but I had omitted to
put on my caps. Lions had consumed a large part of
the rhinoceros, and had sneaked ofT on hearing us ap-
proach, leaving, as is usual, matted locks from their
shaggy gray manes sticking on the broken points of th b
projecting ribs. My dogs, on scenting them, ran baik
ing angrily in the direction which the lions had hcH,
springing up into the air with their hair bristling alai^
their backs. With considerable difhculty we separate**
the horn of the muchocho from the skin by means of a
long, sharp knife. It was nearly three feet in length,
and measured almost a foot in diameter at the bae^.
This being accomplished, wc returned to camp. He^e
I found that Isaac had not been idle in forwarding his
own views. I at once saw that my followers had some-
thing unusual on their minds ; blackness and dismay
were plainly written on every countenance. I had

222 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFR-.CA.

scarcely seated myself beside the fire, when Isaac ap-
proached me with a slow, funereal step, and horror de-
picted in his face, and asked me if I had heard the
news. I replied, What news ? He went on to state
that on the preceding evening two men of the Baman-
gwato tribe had passed my wagons on their way to
Bakatla, to warn that tribe of the on-coming of the
cruel and warlike IMatabili (whose powerful chief,
Moselekatse, has been so ably described in the pages
of my fellow-sportsman, Captain Harris). These they
represented as having a few days previously attacked
and plundered various Bechuana tribes to the north-
ward, and that they were now advancing by rapid
marches to devastate the country and murder the in-
habitants of these parts.

This I at once knew to be a fabrication to prevent
my penetrating further, and I laughed at Isaac and told
him he had dreamed it; to which he replied, "Yes,
you will not listen to my advice when you are warned
of danger, but both you and your men will one day ac-
knowledge the truth of my forebodings." I had con-
siderable difficulty in calming the minds of my follow-
ers, and prevailing on them to proceed further wit][i me.

In the afternoon we continued our journey to the
northward, through a country of increasing loveliness.
Beautifully wooded hills and valleys, captivating to the
sportsman's eye, stretched away on every side, with
rivulets of crystal waters in the valleys and the spoor
of large game very abundant. On the iTiarch my dogs
dashed up the wind, and in two minutes the peaceful
forest was disturbed by their united voices, angrily
barking around some animal which they had brought
to bay. Snatching up my rifle, I rushed to the scene
of conflictj and found them actively baying a fierce and

BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 223

grisly boar, whose foaming jaws were adorned with a
pair of tusks so enormous as to resemble horns, each
of them being upward of a foot in length. It was some
time before I could obtain a clear shot, owing to the
eagerness of my dogs ; but at length an opening oc-
curred, when I dropped the grim boar with a bullet in
the heart. Night had scarcely set in when lions com-
menced to roar in concert on every side of us, and con-
tinued their deep and awful music until the sun rose
next day.

On the 8th we performed a short march before break-
fast, halting beside a stream of delicious water. In the
afternoon we resumed our march, and halted at sun-
down beside the broad and sandy bed of a periodical
river, through Avhich ran a crystal stream.

On the 9th we continued our march through a love-
ly and romantic country, steering for Sesetabie, an
extremely bold and picturesque pass, in the lofty
mountains in which the '' Kouloubeng" or "river of
wild boars," a tributary to the Ngotwani, takes its rise.
As the wagons proceeded, I walked in advance with
my rifle, and presently brought down a sassayby.
"While following a herd of pailahs, the wagons got
ahead of me ; and on overtaking them, I found them
drawn up beside a sweet little rocky river, at a short
distance from the mountain pass, which from its ap-
pearance we expected would prove a barrier to our fur-
ther progress.

I ascended a lofty mountain range to the westward
of the pass. Here I fell in with large colonies of bab-
oons and a few klipspringers. I also saw for the first
time green parrots and gray squirrels. A number of
interesting birds, possessing melodious voices, and plu-
mage more or less gaud}-, adorned the groves and for-

224 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ests since I had crossed the range, of the Kurrichane
Mountains ; but, throughout my career in the forests
of the interior, my attention was necessarily so taken
up with the pursuit of larger, and to rae more interest-
ing objects of the chase, that I could rarely bestow
upon the feathered creation more than a short and pass-
ing glance of admiration. Having ascended to the
summit of the highest mountain of the chain, I obtain-
ed a glorious view of the surrounding country. It was
truly a fair and boundless prospect ; beautifully w^ood-
ed plains and mountains stretched away on every side
to an amazing distance, until the vision was lost among
the faint blue outlines of the distant mountain ranges.
Throughout all this country, and vast tracts beyond,
I had the satisfaction to reflect that a never-ending suc-
cession of herds of every species of noble game which
the hunter need desire pastured there in undisturbed
security ; and as I gazed, I felt that it was all my own,
and that I at length possessed the undisputed sway
over a forest, in comparison with which the tame and
herded narrow bounds of the wealthiest European
sportsman sink into utter insignificance.

The succeeding day we entered the gorge, and
wound along the margin of the stream, which danced
and sparkled down its abrupt and rocky channel, form-
ing a pleasing succession of babbling streams and foam-
ing waterfalls. As we advanced further up the gorge
the path became extremely contracted, there being
barely sufficient room to admit of the wagons passing
between the steep and rocky brink of the stream, and
the rugged base of the lofty, inaccessible mountain
which towered on our left. On the opposite side, the
mountain forming the eastern bulwark of the pass rose
precipitately from the water's edge, presenting an iro.-

BOLDNESS OF A LION AND LIONESS. 225

passable barrier. It was a wild and lonely glen, hith-
erto untrodden save by the wild denizens of the forests,
which from time immemorial had roamed these soli
tudes. Large stones and masses of granite rock ob-
structed our progress, and several hours were occupied
in rolling these to one side before we could venture to
bring on the wagons.

The next morning was cold and windy, and I lay
in my wagon longer than usual. My Hottentots had
thought proper to leave their charge, and go in quest
of honey under the guidance of a garrulous honey-bird.
I had lain about twenty minutes in my wagon after
they had all started, and was occupied in reading a
book, when suddenly I heard the oxen come trotting
along in front of the wagons, as if sharply driven. On
raising my head from my pillow, I perceived a lioness
following within twenty yards of them, and next mo-
ment her mate, a venerable-looking lion, with a shag-
gy mane which swept the ground, appeared in the yel-
low grass in front of the oxen, waiting for her to put
them to flight. The plot had evidently been precon-
certed between them, this being the usual manner in
which the lion attacks the buffaloes. Fortunately, the
oxen would not run for them, and the lions seemed
surprised at the confidence of their game. On spring-
ing to my feet and shouting to them, they joined one
another, and stood together beneath a shady tree with-
in a hundred and twenty yards of the wagons. My
horses were pasturing at a short distance from the li-
ons, feeding toward me, and on these they seemed now
to meditate an attack, their attention being divided be-
tween the horses and myself. In such a position of
affairs, I considered it high time to give these bold in-
truders a hint whose cattle they were so rari'fully herd-

K2

226 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ing. Snatching up my two-grooved rifle, which at all
times hung loaded in my wagon, I at once ran forward
under cover of a convenient busliy tree which inter-
vened, and on gaining .this bush I was within seventy
yards of the lions. Here a forked branch afforded an
admirable rest. I placed my rifle in the fork, and,
taking the old lion low, I let fly, hitting him in the
shoulder ; the two then wheeled about, and, bounding
forward with angry growls, disappeared among the
trees.

From the cool state I was in when I fired, and the
steady aim which the forked branch had afforded me,
I felt convinced that the lion, if not dead, must be
mortally wounded, but I prudently resolved not to pro-
ceed in quest of him alone. Presently some of my
men, who had gone to the carcass of a buffalo I had
slain the previous day, returned, bringing the dogs ;
and, having informed them of what had happened, I
proceeded to take up the spoor of the wounded lion.
On reaching the spot where the lions had stood, my
do";s at once commenced barking^ ans^rilv and lookins;
sharply around in every direction, their hair bristling
on their backs. I at once discovered blood, "which in-
creased as I proceeded from small red drops to large
frothy blotches ; and before advancing two hundred
yards, on approaching a dense green bush, my dogs,
which led the way, sprang suddenly to one side, bark-
ing with great vehemence. By this I knew that the
lion was dead, and, on cautiously rounding the bush,
taking care at the same time to give it a wide berth, I
had the satisfaction to behold a princely lion stretched
lifeless on the ground. He was in the prime of Ufe,
having fine sharp teeth ; and it being now the dead of
winter, he carried the most luxuriant coat of hair, the

A DENSE JUNGLE. 257

rankness of his flowing mane exceeding in beauty any
thing I had hitherto seen. I considered myself ex-
tremely fortunate in having secured so noble a speci-
men of the lion with so little danger, and I at once set
men to work to unrobe him, which they were not long
in accomplishing.

About mid-day we inspanned, and trekked on till sun-
down through a country the most wild and primitive
that can be conceived. "We proceeded under the guid-
ance of two Bechuanas, who had joined us on the pre-
ceding day, and were proceeding to Booby. The two
Baquaines who had accompanied me from Bakatla had
forsaken my standard after I had shot the bull eland,
so liberal a supply of flesh being far too powerful a
temptation to admit of their proceeding beyond it. On
gaining the neck of the mountain pass, our march for a
few miles wound through beautifully-v>^ooded grass}
hills, after which we descended into a rugged and dense-
ly-wooded valley, intersected with deep water-courses
which threatened momentarily the destruction of my
axle-trees. So dense was the jungle that wo wero
obliged repeatedly to halt the wagons, and cut out a
pathway wdth our axes before they could advance.
Emerging from this valley, we entered upon a more
level country, still, however, densely covered with for-
est-trees and bushes in endless variety. Here water
was very abundant. We crossed several streams and
marshes whose margins were a mass of the spoor of
wild animals, that of rhinoceros, buffalo, and camelo-
pard being most abundant. At one stream the fresh
spoor of a troop of lions was deeply imprinted in the
wet sand.

Although I am now acquainted with the native names
of a number of the trees of the African forests, yet of

228 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

their scientific names I am utterly ignorant. Tho
shoulders and upper ridges of the mountains through-
out all that country are profusely adorned with the
graceful sandal- wood tree, famed on account of the
delicious perfume of its timber. The leaf of this tree
emits at every season of the year a powerful and fra«
grant perfume, which is increased by bruising the leaves
in the hand. Its leaf is small, of. a light silvery-gray
color, which is strongly contrasted by the dark and
dense ever-green foliage of the moopooroo-tree, which
also adorns the upper ridges of the mountain ranges.
This beautiful tree is interesting, as producing the
most delicious and serviceable fruit that I have met
with throughout those distant parts, the poorer natives
subsisting upon it for several months, during which it
continues in season. The moopooroo is of the size and
shape of a very large olive. It is at first green, but,
gradually ripening, like the Indian mango, it becomes
beautifully striped with yellow, and when perfectly ripe
its color is the deepest orange. The fruit is sweet and
mealy, similar to the date, and contains a small brown
seed. It covers the branches, and when ripe the gold-
en fruit beautifully contrasts with the dark green leaves
of the tree which bears it. Besides the moopooroo, a
great variety of fruits are met with throughout these
mountains and forests, all of which are known to, and
gathered by, the natives. I must, however, forego a
description of them, as it would swell these pages to
undue bounds. Throughout the densely-wooded dells
and hollows of the mountains the rosewood-tree occurs,
of considerable size and in great abundance.

Throughout the night we were beset by a daring
troop of hyaenas, which, notwithstanding the vigilance
of my dogs, consumed a part of my buffalo trek-tow and

THE GIRAFFE. 229

also a number of straps from olf the yokes. The dogs
kept up a loud and incessant barking until the day
dawned, when I shot one of the hyaenas, and the rest
made off.

On the 11th we were in the yoke soon after day-
break. It was a bitter cold morning, ice a quarter of
an inch in thickness covering the pools of water. We
were now clear of the extensive mountain ranges
through which our road had wound since leaving Ba-
katla, and were approaching toward the southeastern
limits of the great Kalahari desert, on whose borders
Booby is situated. We continued our march, steering
northwest, in which direction the distant blue hills
(pointed out to me as the position of Booby) shot ab-
ruptly above the unvaried sameness of the intervening
forest scenery. To the west, one eternal ocean-like
expanse of gray forest stretched away in a level and
unbroken plain, terminated only by the far horizon.
Having performed a march of three hoars, we crossed
a small stream, where I outspanned to breakfast.

This day was to me rather a memorable one, as the
first on which I saw and slew the lofty, graceful-look-
ing giraffe or camelopard, with which, during many
years of my life, I had longed to form an acquaint-
ance.*

* These gis^antic and exquisitely beautiful animals, wliich are admi-
rably formed by nature to adorn the fair forests that clothe the bound-
less plains of the interior, ai'e widely distributed throughout the inte
rior of Southern Africa, but are nowhere to be met with in great nura
bers. In countries unmolested by the intrusive foot of man, the gi-
raffe is found generally in herds varying from twelve to sixteen ; but I
have nut unfrequently met with herds containing thirty individuals,
and on one occasion I counted forty together; this, however, was owing
to chance, and about sixteen may be reckoned as the average number
of a herd. These herds are composed of giraffes of various sizes, from
the young giraffe of nine or ten feet in height, to the dark chestnut-
colored old bull of the herd, whose exalted head towers above his com-

230 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

Although we had now been traveling many days
through the country of the giraffe, and had marched

panions, generally attaining to a height of upward of eighteen feet.
The females are of lower stature and more delicately formed than the
vnJles, their height averaging from sixteen to seventeen feet. Some
writers have discovered ugliness and a want of grace in the giraffe, but
I consider that he is one of the most strikingly beautiful animals in the
creation ; and when a herd of them is seen scattered through a grove
of the picturesque parasol-topped acacias which adorn their native
plains, and on whose uppermost shoots they are enabled to browse by
the colossal height with which nature has so admirably endowed them,
he must indeed be slow of conception who fails to discover both grace
and dignity in all their movements. There can be no doubt that every
animal is seen to the greatest advantage in the haunts which nature
destined him to adorn, and among the various living creatures which
beautify this fair creation I have often traced a remarkable resem-
blance between the animal and the general appearance of the locality
in which it is fomid. This I first remarked at an early period of my
life, when entomology occupied a part of my attention. No person fol-
lowing this interesting pursuit can fail to observe the extraordinaiy
likeness which insects bear to the various abodes in which they are
met with. Thus, among the long green grass we find a variety of long
green insects, whose legs and antennae so resemble the shoots emana-
ting from the stalks of the grass that it requires a practiced eye to dis-
tinguisii them. Throughout sandy districts varieties of insects are met
with of a color similar to the sand which they inhabit. Among the
green leaves of the various trees of the forest innumerable leaf-colored
insects are to be found ; while, closely adhering to the rough gray bark
of these forest-trees, w^e observe beautifully-colored gray-looking moths
of various patterns, yet altogether so resembling the bark as to be invis-
ible to the passing observer. In like manner, among quadrupeds I have
traced a corresponding analogy, for, even in the case of the stupendous
elephant, the ashy color of his hide so corresponds with the general ap-
pearance of the gray thorny jungles which he frequents throughout the
day, that a person unaccustomed to hunting elephants, standing on a
commanding situaftion, might look down upon a herd and fail to detect
their presence. And further, in the case of the giraffe, which is inva-
riably met with among venerable forests, where innumerable blasted
and weather-beaten trunks and stems occur, I have repeatedly been iu
doubt as to the presence of a troop of them until I had recourse to my
spy-glass; and on referring the case to my savage attendants, I liavo
known even their optics to fail, at one time mistaking these dilapidated
trunks for camelopards, and again confounding real camelopards with
these a^ed veterans of the forest.

A GIRAFFE CHASE. 231

through forests in which their spoor was abundant, our

eyes had not yet been gifted with a sight of " Tootla"
himself; it was therefore with indescribable pleasure
that, on the evening of the 11th, I beheld a troop of
these interesting animals.

Our breakfast being finished, I resumed my journey
through an endless gray forest of cameel-dorn and other
trees, the country 'slightly undulating and grass abund-
ant. A little before the sun went down my driver re-
marked to me, " I was just going to say, sir, that that
old tree was a camelopard." On looking where he
pointed, I saw that the old tree was indeed a camelo-
pard, and, on casting my eyes a little to the right, I be-
held a troop of them standing looking at us, their heads
actually towering above the trees of the forest. It was
imprudent to commence a chase at such a late hour,
especially in a country of so level a character, where
the chances were against my being able to regain my
wagons that night. I, however, resolved to chance ev-
ery thing ; and directing my men to catch and saddle
Colesberg, I proceeded in haste to buckle on my shoot-
ing-belt and spurs, and in two minutes I was in the
saddle. The giraffes stood looking at the wagons un-
til I was within sixty yards of them, when, galloping*
round a thick bushy tree, under cover of which I had
ridden, I suddenly beheld a sight the most astounding
that a sportsman's eye can encounter. Before me stood
a troop of ten colossal giraffes, the majority of which
were from seventeen to eighteen feet high. On behold-
ing me they at once made off, twisting their long tails
over their backs, making a loud switching noise with ■
them, and cantered along at an easy pace, which, how-
ever, obliged Colesberg to put his best foot foremost to
keep up with them,

232 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA,

The sensations which. I felt on this occasion were
different from any thing that I had before experienced
during a long sporting career. My senses were so ab-
sorbed by the wondrous and beautiful sight before me
that I rode along like one entranced, and felt inclined
to disbelieve that I was hunting living things of this
world. The ground was firm and favorable for riding.
At every stride I gained upon the giraffes, and after a
short burst at a swinging gallop I was in the middle
of them, and turned the finest cow out of the herd.
On finding herself driven from her comrades and hotly
pursued, she increased her pace, and cantered along
with tremendous strides, clearing an amazing extent
of ground at every bound ; while her neck and breast,
coming in contact with the dead old branches of the
trees, were continually strewing them in my path. In
a few minutes I was riding within five yards of her
stern, and, firing at the gallop, I sent a bullet into her
back. Increasing my pace, I next rode alongside, and,
placing the muzzle of my rifle within a few feet of her,
I fired my second shot behind the shoulder ; the ball,
however, seemed to have little effect. I then placed
myself directly in front, when she came to a walk.
> Dismounting, I hastily loaded both barrels, putting in
double charges of powder. Before this was accomplish-
ed she was off at a canter. In a short time I brought
her to a stand in the dry bed of a water-course, where
I fired at fifteen yards, aiming where I thought the
heart lay, upon which she again made off. Having
loaded, I followed, and had very nearly lost her ; she
had turned abruptly to the left, and was far out of
sight among the trees. Once more I brought her to a
stand, and dismounted from my horse. There we
stood together alone in the wild wood. I gazed in

PERFUME EMITTED BV THE GIRAFFE. 233

wonder at her extreme beauty, while her soft dark eye,
with its silky fringe, looked down imploringly at mc,
and I really felt a pang of sorrow in this moment of
triumph for the blood I was shedding. Pointing my
rifle toward the skies, I sent a bullet through her neck.
On receiving it, she reared high on her hind legs, and
fell backward with a heavy crash, making the earth
shake around her. A thick stream of dark blood spout-
ed out from the wound, her colossal limbs quivered for
a moment, and she expired.

I had little time to contemplate the prize I had won.
Night was fast setting in, and it was very questionable
if I should succeed in regaining my wagons ; so, hav-
ing cut off the tail of the giraffe, which was adorned
with a bushy tuft of flowing black hair, I took " one
last fond look," and rode hard for the spoor of the wag-
ons, which I succeeded in reaching just as it was dark.

No pen nor words can convey to a sportsman what
it is to ride in the midst of a troop of gigantic giraffes :
it must be experienced to be understood. They emit-
ted a powerful perfume, which in the chase came hot
in my face, reminding me of the smell of a hive of
heather honey in September. The greater part of this
chase led through bushes of the wait-a-bit thorn of the
most virulent description, which covered my legs and
arms with blood long before I had killed the giraffe. I
rode as usual in the kilt, with my arms bare to my
shoulder. It was Chapelpark of Badenoch's old gray
kilt, but in this chase it received a death blow which
it never afterward recovered.

On the 12tli we performed two long marches through
thickly-wooded plains, the spoor of camelopard being
extremely abundant. On the IStli we cast lcA,i^e the
cattle at dawn of day. Breakfast being fiubhed, W9

234 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

inspanued, and having proceeded about eight miles
through the forest, steering for a range of rocky mount-
ains, we reached a gorge in the same. Here we cross-
ed a small river, and, having followed its banks about
three miles, reached Booby, a residence of Bechuanas,
being a branch of the tribe of the Baquaines, and gov-
erned by a subordinate chief, who was then absent on
a visit. I was, however, welcomed by his nephew,
named Caachy, a man of pleasing exterior and prepos-
sessing manners, who shortly afterward became, and
now is, chief of that tribe.

As the manner in which Caachy succeeded to the
chieftainship was peculiar, I may here relate the cir-
cumstances attending it. Throughout all the Bechu-
ana tribes an absurd belief prevails in witchcraft and
supernatural agencies of every Idnd. They also be-
lieve that for every transaction there is a medicine
which will enable the possessor to succeed in his object.
Thus they think those among themselves who work in
iron do so under the power of medicine. Their rain-
makers, by the power of their medicines, can propitiate
the friendly clouds during the protracted droughts of
summer. They have medicines to protect them from
the lightning's stroke, from the deadly bite of the viper,
and from the fatal spring of the lion. They further
believe that there is a medicine for guns, the posses-
sion of which will cause the gun to shoot well, and like-
wise one for the gunpowder, which will give it strength.

During my visit to Booby I obtained from the na-
tives some interesting specimens of native arms and
other curiosities, for which they required gunpowder,
their chief having in his possession one or two muskets
When the chief and his men proceeded to use my pow-
der, they missed all they fired at ; the Bechuana mode

GUNPOWDER MEDICINE. 235

of firing being to withdraw the face from the gun, from
a natural impulse of fear, before drawing the trigger,
and to look back over the left shoulder instead of at
the animal they expect to kill. The cause of their
missing they at once ascribed to the powder, which
they affirmed required medicine. Accordingly, the
chief and all the long-headed men in Booby assembled
in the forum ; and having placed the unworthy gun-
powder upon a large kaross, they all sat round it, and
commenced a variety of ceremonies and incantations
with a view of imparting to it that power which they
considered it had lost. At length some wiseacre among
the soothsayers informed the king that the presence of
fire was indispensable on the occasion. Fire was ac-
cordingly introduced along with the other medicines,
and a censer of hot embers was passed frequently over
the powder. Suddenly, however, an unlucky spark
sprang from the (jenser into the heap of powder, which of
course instantly exploded, and, the quantity being very
considerable, the Booby men and their chief were blown
heels over head on every side — several of the party, and
among others the chief, being so severely burned that
they shortly died. So much for Bechuana medicines.
The kraal of Booby is encompassed on three sides
by rocky hills, which to their summits are densely clad
with sandal- wood trees. The sides of these mountains
in parts are extremely precipitous, and are the abodes
of baboons and klipspringers. On the march, as we
approached Booby, I took my rifle and ascended to the
base of one of these precipices, where I shot two im-
mense baboons. One of them was sitting on the shelf
of a rock very high above me ; and on receiving the
shot, he fell about a hundred feet without a break.
The valleys between the mountains are extensively

236 'adventures in south africa.

cultivated by the women, as also a large level piece of
ground to the northeastward of the kraal. The cos-
tume of this tribe was the same I have already de-
scribed as worn by the Bechuanas ; but I remarked
that they used the atrocious mixture of red clay and
grease more freely than their neighbors. The Booby
men flocked around my wagons, evidently much grat-
ified with so novel a sight, and continued with me un-
til nightfall. Shortly after I reached Booby a party
of Baquaines arrived from Sichely. They had beer
sent to endeavor to dissuade me from visiting Baman
gwato, and to inform me that Sichely had ivory and
karosses, with which to purchase all my guns ; and
that, above all, he wished me to promise to reserve my
big Dutch rifle for him. I informed these men that I
was determined to visit Sicomy, but that I would keep
the Dutch rifle for their chief, as he requested it.

Having informed Caachy that I intended to march
next day, he expressed surprise, and said I made his
heart sore. That evening there was a meeting of all
the wise men in Booby to consult how I could best be
prevented from journeying on to Bamangwato. On
the morning of the 14th I felt far from well, probably
having drunk too much of Caachy's beer on the preced-
ing evening. Before I was inclined to turn out, the
regent with all his great men were standing thick
around my wagons. I pretended to be asleep ; so they
kindled fires, around which they squatted. Presently
I arose, and gave the regent his breakfast. I told him
that I wished him to send men along with me to Ba-
mangwato. He replied that there was war in that
country, and that he was afraid of Moselekatse. I then
said that, though he would not give me men, I pos^ssed
medicine which would enable me to discover the way

TREACHERY OF CAACHY. 237

without his assistance ; and I informed him that, if he
persisted in withholding guides, I should inform Sicomy,
the great and paramount chief of Bamangwato, that
they endeavored to prevent white men from visiting
his domains. Upon this Caachy changed his story, and
said that four men should accompany me to Baman-
gwato, and return with me. His plan, however, was,
that these men should guide me in a wrong direction;
and pretending that the waters had failed, they were
eventually to lead me to Sichely, who resided to the
eastward of Booby.

This being arranged, I gave Caachy some presents,
and requested him to take charge of my buffalo and
other heads until my return, which he promised to do,
and ordered men to bear them directly to his kraal.
About mid-day we inspanned and left Booby, accom-
panied by nearly the whole tribe, every man carrying
two or three assagais and a battle-ax. They followed
us in the hope that I would shoot large game for them.
The guides at first held northeast ; but presently draw-
ing off that course and steering due east, I halted, and
said that was not the road to Bamangwato. They re-
plied, they held that course on account of water. I
then directed them to place an assagai on the ground
with its head pointing to Bamangwato. Thereupon
the savages laid down one of their assagais, and, having
pretended for some minutes to be discussing among
themselves the exact position of Bamangwato, the^
ended by pointing it due east, declaring that Baman-
gwato lay in that direction. I told them that I had a
needle in my pocket which I had rubbed with medicine,
by which I could tell if their spear pointed to Sicomy's
country. Knowing that Bamangwato lay a little to
■the east of north, I said that by turning the needle three

238 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

times round my left wrist it would point a little to the
left-hand side of the country I required. On hearing
this, the savages looked at one another with surprise,
and pressed round me to see if my needle possessed the
power I represented. Slipping my fingers into my
shooting-belt, I then pulled out my pocket compass,
and, passing it three times round my left wrist with
the utmost gravity, I whistled shrilly ; and on opening
the compass, I placed it on the ground before them.
Snatching one of their assagais, I placed it beside the
compass a little to the east of north, and told them that
it was there Bamangwato lay. They were struck with
astonishment, and at once considered me as working
by supernatural agency.

Having done this, I inquired of the guides if they
would lead me to waters in that direction. They all
shouted that that was the desert, and that no man had
ever found water there. Having said this, they all
turned right about, and, retreating for about two hund-
red yards, they squatted on the ground. Isaac and I
then approached them ; but they sat in silence, and
looked on the ground. I asked them why they all sat
thus. They answered that they would proceed no fur-
ther with me. I replied that I was happy to hear it,
and that I could find the way better without them. I
returned to my wagons, and ordered my men to turn
about and retrace their steps to the nearest water.
The savages then requested me to halt and speak with
them. I told them to go home to their captain, as
their presence troubled me ; and having proceeded a
few hundred yards, I encamped beside a pool of water.

It was plain to me that Isaac, my interpreter, was
in league with the Baquaines in their designs against
me ; but as I did not then intend to part with him, bc;

A NIGHT OF ANXIETY. 239

cause his presence gave confidence to my people, 1
deemed it best to pretend that I believed him to be
sincere. My flesh being exhausted, I resolved to halt
for a day for the purpose of hunting before proceeding
further ; and having obtained a good supply, to steer
through the forests by compass a little to the east of
north, and to search for water with my horses in ad-
vance of the wagons. I felt poorly in health, and was
much troubled in mind. My situation was by no means
an enviable one. I was far in the interior of Africa,
alone and friendless, surrounded by a tribe of men who
would do any thing to prevent my attaining my object;
but fear restrained them from using violence. What
I most dreaded was their stealing my oxen or horses,
which they could easily accomplish, as I was encamped
in a thick forest ; my men also were faint-hearted, and
anxious to return toward home.

That night I slept little, from vexation and anxiety.
The whole tribe of the Booby men lay encamped beside
us. They lay on the ground around a nuraber of fires,
with a hedge of thorny bushes placed in a semicircle to
windward*of each party. After breakfast I rode east
to hunt, accompanied by Kleinboy leading^ pack-horse ;
about thirty of the Bechuanas followed us in the hope
of flesh. Having proceeded about two miles, I per-
ceived a large herd of blue wildebeests and zebras. I
signed to the Bechuanas to lie down, and then rode
slowly forward as if to pass to leeward of the herd.
Having probably never before seen a horseman, they
allowed me to approach within a hundred yards, when
I sprang from my horse, and with my first barrel drop-
ped a fat blue wildebeest. The Bechuanas then rushed
forward, but I beckoned to them to lie down. Having
loaded, I galloped in pursuit of the troop, and after rid-

240 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ing a short distance hard in their dusty wake, through
a thinly-wooded part of the forest, I pulled up and was
on my feet just as the leading cow wheeled about. I
fired right and left, and shot two fat old cows. Both
ran a short distance and fell. The Bechuanas now
came up with Kleinboy, greatly delighted at my suc-
cess. I presented them with the bull and one of the
cows for their chief, and, having placed the remaining
cow upon my pack-horse, we returned to camp.

Here I found Caachy with all his retinue : they had
come out to endeavor by cunning speaking to lead me
astray. Having saluted Caachy, I said that I had yes-
terday promised to kill some game for him, and that I
had now fulfilled my word, upon which he thanked me.
I then remarked that his men did not lead me as Dr.
Livingstone had told me to ride ; to which he replied
that the road was circuitous, and that they led me so
on account of water. At length he had almost per-
suaded me to follow his guides, but I said I would rest
till to-morrow, having determined that, as I had no
friend whom I might consult, I would revolve the sub-
ject in my mind that night, and determine finally in
the morning.* Caachy then drank coffee with me and
departed. In the evening I inquired of the guides con-
cerning the waters and the distances between them.
They replied that the first water was a rnoderate day's
journey, but after that I must ride more than two days
without water : they also persevered in pointing to the
east as my course, I now plainly saw that their in-
tention was to lead me far astray, and finally to bring
me to Sichely, their own paramount chief. I therefore
resolved to adhere to my first resolution of steering my
own course by the compass, but I kept this intention
secret, fearing that they might steal some of my oxen.

MARCH FOR BAMANGWATO. 241

CHAPTER XIIL

The Guides try to mislead me — The Cattle and Horses dying from
Thirst — Search for Water — Melancholy Anticipations — Directed to a
Pool by the Flight of Birds — Chase and kill a Giraffe — Wandering
Bechuanas point out my right Course — Miserable Condition of the
Natives — Game Pitfalls — Mimosa Grove smashed by Elephants — A
Rhinoceros charges me — Abundance of large Game — Lost in the
Forest.

On the morning of the 16th a large party of Caachy's
men were still encamped beside us, and were under the
impression that they had succeeded in prevailing upon
me to follow them. Having filled all my water-casks,
I ordered my men to inspan, the Bechuanas cracking
their jokes and fancying that I should ride east as they
led ; but, to their astonishment, having inspanned, I
told them that they had better all return to their cap-
tains, as I would shoot no more game for them, and I
then ordered my men to ride for a conspicuous tree in
the distance, bearing N.N.E. The Bechuanas sat still
for some time to see how I would steer, and presently
they shouldered their assagais and followed in our wake.
This was a bold step on my part: the country looked
very unlikely for water, and the Bechuanas swore that
there was none for seven days' journey in that direc-
tion. Our march lay through a boundless forest, with
no hill or landmark to give me an idea where to search
for water. Fortune, however, followed me here as
usual: if I had lived all my life in the country, I could
not have taken a more direct course for the spot I wish-
ed to reach. After we had proceeded some miles, a

Vol. I.— L

242 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

rising ground arose in our path, from the summit of
which I fancied that a view might be obtained of the
country in advance. This view only served to damp
my hopes, the prospect exhibiting one slightly undu-
lating, ocean-like expanse of forest and dense thorny
jungles.

We halted for a few minutes to breathe the oxen,
when the Bechuanas all came up, and sat down on the
ground beside us. I asked them why they had not
gone home as I had told them. They replied that they
followed me because they were afraid that I should lose
myself and my oxen. We held on, steering by compass
N.N.E. All the Bechuanas now forsook me except the
four ill-favored men whom Caachy had pointed out to
me as my guides. These four, contrary to my expecta-
tions, followed in our wake at some distance. I walk-
ed a hundred yards in advance of the wagons with my
compass in my hand, having ordered the men to follow
my footsteps. After traveling for several hours the coun-
try became more open, and presently we entered upon
a wide tract that had been recenty burned by the Ba-
Kalahari, or wild inhabitants of the desert. Here the
trees and bushes stood scorched and burned, and there
was not a blade of grass to cheer the eye — blackness
and ashes stretched away on every side wherever I
turned my anxious glance. I felt my heart sink with-
in me as I beheld in dim perspective my famished and
thirsty oxen returning some days hence over this hope-
less desert, all my endeavors to find water having fail-
ed, and all my bright hopes of elephant-hunting dashed
and crowned with bitter disappointment : it was, in-
deed, a cheerless prospect. I had no friend to comfort
or advise me, and I could hear my men behind rae
gT'jirbling, and swearing that they would return home,

GLOOMY ANTICIPATIONS. 243

the guides, who had now come up, asking them why
they followed me to destruction.

At length wcreached the further side of this dreary
waste of ashes, but now an equally cheerless prospect
was before me. We entered a vast forest, gray with
extreme age, and so thick that we could not see forty
yards in advance. We were obliged occasionally to halt
the wagons and cut down trees and branches to admit
of their passing; and, to make matters still worse, the
country had become extremely heavy, the wagons sink-
ing deep in soft sand. My men began to show a mu-
tinous spirit by expressing their opinions aloud in my
presence. I remonstrated with them, and told them
that, if I did not bring them to water next day before
the sun was under, they might turn the oxen on their
spoor. We continued our march through this dense
forest until nightfall, when I halted for the night beside
a wide-spreading tree: here I cast my oxen loose for
an hour, and then secured them on the yokes by moon-
light.

I felt very sad and unhappy in my mind, for I con-
sidered that the chances were against me, and I shud-
dered at the idea of returning to the colony, after com-
ing so very far, without shooting or even seeing what
my heart most ardently desired, viz., a wild bull ele-
phant free in his native Jungle. I took some wine, and,
coming to the fire which the men had kindled for the
night beneath a magnificent old cameel-dorn tree, I
affected great cheerfulness and contentment, and, laugh-
ing at the four Bechuanas, I told them that I was not
a child that they should lead me astray, but that I was
an old warrior and a cunning hunter, and could, find
niy way in strange lands. I jaughed, but it was the
laugh of despair, for I expected that next evening they

244 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

would be laughing at me, on seeing me compelled to
retrace my steps. One of the greatest difficulties that
presented itself was, that, if I rode in advance to search
for water, it would be almost impossible to find my way
back to the wagons through that vast and trackless
forest. I went to bed, but tried in vain to sleep. Care
and anxiety kept me awake until a little before morn-
ing, when I fell asleep for a short time, and dreamed
that I had ridden in advance and found water. Day
dawned, and I awoke in sorrow. My hopes were like
a flickering flame ; care sat upon my brow. I cast loose
my horses and oxen, and prepared some breakfast ; I
then directed my men to catch " The Cow" and "Coles-
berg," and give them some corn. I asked the guides
if they could lead me to water in a northerly direction,
when they replied that no man ever found water in the
desert. I did not talk more with them, but ordered my
men to remain quiet during the day and listen for shots,
lest I should lose my way in returning; and having
given them ammunition to reply, I saddled up and held
N.N.E. through thick forests, accompanied by Klein-
boy. The ground was heavy, being soft sand, and the
grass grew at intervals in detached bunches. We rode
on without a break or a change, and found no spoor of
wild animals to give me hope. I saw one duiker, but
these antelopes are met with in the desert, and are in-
dependent of water.

At last we reached a more open part of the forest,
and, emerging from the thicket, I perceived a troop of
six or eight beautiful giraffes standing looking at us
about two hundred yards to my right; but this was no
time to give them chase, which I felt very much in-
clined to do. I allowed them to depart in peace, and
continued my search for water. In this open glade I

HUNT FOR WATER. 245

found two or three vleys that had once contained a little
water, but they were now hard and dry. He-entering
the dense forest, we held one point more to the east,
and rode on as before. For miles we continued our
search, until my hopes sank to a very low ebb; and
Kleinboy swore that we should never regain the wag-
ons. At length I perceived a sassayby walking before
me: this antelope drinks every day ; " fresh vigor with
the hope returned." I once more pressed forward and
cantered along, heedless of the distance which already
intervened between me and my camp and the remon-
strances of my attendant, who at last reined up his jad-
ed steed, and said that he would not follow me further
to my own destruction. I then pointed to the top of a
distant gray tree that stretched its bare and weather-
beaten branches above the heads of its surrounding
comrades, and said that, if we saw nothing to give us
hope when we reached that tree, I would abandon the
search, and hunt during that season in Sichely's mount-
ains to the east of Booby.

But fate had ordained that I should penetrate fur-
ther into the interior of Africa, and before I reached the
old gray tree I observed a small flight of Namaqua par-
tridges flying across my path in a westerly direction.
It was impossible to tell, until I should see a second
flock of these, flying at a different angle, whether the
first flock had come from or were going to water. For
this I accordingly watched, nor watched long in vain.
A considerable distance ahead of me I detected a second
flight of these birds likewise flying westerly ; and it was
evident, from their inclination, that they held for the
same point as the first had done. Shortly afterward
the first flight returned, flying high above our heads, ut-
tering their soft, melodious cry of " pretty dear, pretty

246 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

dear." I then rode in the dh-ection from which the
birds had come, and before proceeding far we discover-
ed a sli2;ht hollow runnins^ north and south. This 1
determined to follow, and presently I discovered fresh
spoor of a rhinoceros: this was a certain sign that water
was somewhere not very distant.

Once more my dying hopes revived. I looked north
at the glorious sky, which on this particular day was
quite different from any thing I had beheld for months
It was like one of those glorious days when the bright
blue sky in my own dark land is seen through ten thou-
sand joyous fleecy clouds, and all nature seems io strive
in its sunny hour to make poor unhappy man forget his
cares and sorrows. I took it as a favorable omen, and,
stirring my good and lively steed, I cantered along the
glade. The hollow took a turn, on rounding which I
perceived that I was in an elevated part of the forest ;
and I, for the first time, obtained a distant view of the
surrounding scenery. Far as the eye could strain, it
was all forest without a break ; but there was now an
undulating country before me, instead of the hopeless
level through which I had come. I felt certain of suc-
cess. We soon discovered vleys that had recently con-
tained water, and at last a large pool of excellent water,
enough to supply my cattle for several days. This was
to me a joyous moment ; it was a grand step toward
attaining my object, and, as ray difliculties had seemed
to increase, my wish and determination to overcome
them had become stronger. I knew that, whether I
reached Bamangwato or not, if I could now only man-
age to travel north about eight days' journey I should
fall in with elephants.

I was extremely fortunate in regaining my wagons,
which I did without a turn in my course. On reach-

DECEPTION OF THE GUIDES. 247

fng them I at first pretended not to have discovered
water ; and I said to the guides, " There is nothing
but dense wood in this country ; can you not show me
water ? my oxen will die." They replied that they
knew the country from infancy, and that if I wanted
water I must travel till sunset, steering south of east.
I then surprised them by saying, " Now I see that you
wish to lead me astray ; for I have seen abundance of
water, and I will find my way to Bamangwato, though
you do all in your power to prevent me." Having in-
spanned, we held for the water, which I succeeded in
reaching at a late hour. I still felt very anxious and
full of care ; but this first bold and successful step
seemed to have made a strong impression on the guides,
who still followed in our wake. It appeared to me that
the orders they had received from their chief were to
endeavor to lead me astray, and bring me to Sichely ;
but that, in the event of my finding the way myself,
they were to accompany me to Sicomy, to insure his
friendship, and to convince him of their chief's sincer-
ity. On the morning of the 18th, shortly after the day
dawned, I was lying awake, thinking whether I should
hunt or explore the country in advance, my men hav-
ing, as usual, wa.sted their food and already consumed
the bull wildebeest which I had shot for them two days
previously, when suddenly I heard the voices of men a
little distance down the glade. Fortune seemed de-
termined to favor me. The guides, who sat by our fire,
had not heard the voices ; if they had been aware of men
being near us, they would have run to meet them, and
warned them to lead me astray. Springing from my
bed, I hastily donned my attire, and, proceeding in tho
direction of the voices, I discovered a party of ten Be-
chuanas squatted round a fire which they had just kin-

248 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

died. These men belonged to Booby ; they had beer
hunting jackals at a place called Bootlonamy, which ii
half way from Booby to Bamangwato, and they were
now returning home with their spoils. They at once
pointed out to me the correct line of march for Ba-
mangwato, and advised me of a fine vley in the forest
one march in advance.

Having breakfasted, I inspanned, and after trekking
for about six hours through dense forest we reached the
vley. On the march it was necessary to have constant
recourse to our axes to clear a path for the wagons. I
was much delighted with the little loch to which wo
then came : it covered about an acre, in shape a circle,
and its margin was imprinted with the fresh spoor of a
variety of wild animals, such as giraffe, rhinoceros, buf-
falo, sassayby, pallah, zebra, lion, &c. We encamped
beneath two wide-spreading shady trees, and I at once
saddled up, and rode forth with Kleinboy to hunt, our
flesh being at an end. I had ridden about half a mile
in a northeasterly course, through shady groves of mo-
kala-trees, when suddenly I observed a stately giraffe
walk slowly across my path, and crop the leaves from
the upper branches of a mokala-tree about a hundred
yards in advance. This was a fine look-out : with hasty
hand I shifted my saddle from " Sunday" to the Old
Gray, and ordering Kleinboy to set the pack-saddle on
" Sunday" and listen for shots, I rode slowly toward
the giraffe. As I advanced I perceived another giraffe
standing looking at me a little to my left, which gave
the alarm by starting off, when I stirred my steed, and
on rounding an intervening clump of trees I came full
in sight of a troop of eight giraffes cantering before me.
In another minute I was in the middle of them, and
selecting a fine fat cow, I rode hard at her, and fired

GIRAFFES. 249

my first shot at the gallop. She got it through her ribs,
and the blood flowed freely. Again and again I broke
her from the troop, and again she joined them. At
length I fired my second shot at her stern ; after which,
by heading her, I brought her to a stand, when I sprang
from the fidgety, snorting Old Gray, and, hastily load-
ing both barrels, I fired right and left for her heart.
Her colossal frame shook convulsively for a few seconds,
when, tottering forward, she subsided in the dust with
tremendous violence.

Four signal-shots brought Kleinboy and the pack-
horse, and also Isaac with the four guides. The chase
was all in thick forest, and had led me to within a few
hundred yards of the wagons. The hungry guides
seemed enchanted at the prospect of such a banquet.
They at once kindled a fire, and slept that night beside
the carcass. I returned to the wagons with my horses
laden with flesh. My mind was now once more at rest.
I went to my bed and slept soundly. During the night
lions roared around us.

On the 19th I rose at dawn of day, and took a stroll
through the forest. Here I found some old dung of
elephants, and observed several full-grown trees torn
up by the roots, and others that had been shivered by
the gigantic strength of those animals. The guides,
finding that they prevailed nothing, at length volun-
teered to lead me to Bamangwato by a northerly course,
and promised that I should not lack for water. We in-
spanned, and held on till sundown, proceeding in a
northeasterly course, when we halted in dense forest
without water. Our march lay through an interesting
country well adapted for hunting the eland and giraffe.
The forest was in many places thin and open, with
here and there gigantic old trees of picturesque tippcar*

L 2

250 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ance standing detached, some half dead, and others fall-
ing to pieces from age. The soil was soft yet firm, and
admirably suited for riding. The spoor of eland and
giraffe was abundant.

On the 20th we inspanned at dawn of day, and, hav-
ing proceeded about five miles, reached a miserable lit-
tle kraal or village of Bakalahari. Here was a vley of
Water, beside which we outspanned. Starvation was
written in the faces of these inhabitants of the forest.
In their vicinity were a few small gardens, containing
water-melons and a little corn. Occasionally they have
the luck to capture some large animal in a pitfall, when
for a season they live in plenty. But as they do not
possess salt, the flesh soon spoils, when they are com-
pelled once more to roam the forest in qufst of fruits
and roots, on which, along with locusts, they in a great
measure subsist. In districts where game is abundant,
they oft«n construct their pits on a large scale, and erect
hedges in the form of a crescent, extending to nearly a
mile on either side of the pit. By this means the game
may easily be driven into the pitfalls, which are care-
fully covered over with thin sticks and dry grass, and
thus whole herds of zebras and wildebeests are massa-
cred at once, which capture is followed by the most dis-
gusting banquets, the poor starving savages gorging
and surfeiting in a manner worthy only of the vulture
or hysena. They possess no cattle, and if they did, the
nearest chief would immediately rob them. All that
part of the country abounded with the pitfalls made by
these and others of the Bakalahari. Many of these
had been dug expressly for the giraffe, and were gen-
erally three feet wide and ten long; their depth was
from nine to ten feet. They were placed in the path
of the camelopard, and in the vicinity of several of these

A RHLVOCEROS HUNT. 251

we detected the bones of giraffes, indicating the suc-
cess that had attended their formation.

At mid-day we resumed our march, halting at sun-
set without water. The first part of this march lay
through dense forest, where we were obliged to cut a
pathway with our axes. Here the spoor of eland was
abundant. In the evening we passed through an open
tract very thinly wooded, where I saw abundance of
springbok and blue wildebeest. At midnight, the dogs
giving chase to some animal, I sprang out of bed, and,
following them in my shirt, found them standing over
a jackal. The guides skinned him, and, having baked
him in the ashes, they consumed him.

On the 22d, ordering my men to move on toward a
fountain in the center of the plain, I rode forth with
Ruyter, and held east through a grove of lofty and
wide-spreadihg mimosas, most of which were more or
less damaged by the gigantic strength of a troop of ele-
phants, which had passed there about twelve months
before. Having proceeded about two miles with large
herds of game on every side, I observed a crusty-look-
ing old bull borele, or black rhinoceros, cocking his ears
one hundred yards in advance. He had not observed
us ; and soon after he walked slowly toward us, and
stood broadside to, eating some wait-a-bit thorns within
fifty yards of me. I fired from my saddle, and sent a
bullet in behind his shoulder, upon which he rushed for-
ward about one hundred yards in tremendous conster
nation, blowing like a grampus, and then stood looking
about him. Presently he made off. I followed, but
found it hard to come up with him. When I overtook
him I saw the blood running freely from his wound.

The chase led through a large herd of blue wildo
beests, zebras, and springboks, which gazed at us ir

252 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

utter amazement. At length I fired my second barrel,
but my horse was fidgety, and I missed. I continued
riding alongside of him, expecting in my ignorance that
at length he would come to bay, which rhinoceroses
never do ; when suddenly he fell flat on his broadside
on the ground, but, recovering his feet, resumed his
course as if nothing had happened. Becoming at last
annoyed at the length of the chase, as I wished to keep
my horses fresh for the elephants, and being indifferent
whether I got the rhinoceros or not, as I observed that
his horn was completely worn down with age and the
violence of his disposition, I determined to bring mat-
ters to a crisis ; sOj spurring my horse, I dashed ahead,
and rode right in his path. Upon this the hideous mon-
ster instantly charged me in the most resolute manner,
blowing loudly through his nostrils ; and although I
quickly wheeled about to my left, lie followed me at
such a furious pace for several hundred yards, with his
horrid horny snout within a few yards of my horse's
tail, that my little Bushman, who was looking on in
great alarm, thought his master's destruction inevita-
ble. It was certainly a very near thing ; my horse was
extremely afraid, and exerted his utmost energies on
the occasion. The rhinoceros, however, wheeled about,
and continued his former course ; and I, being perfect-
ly satisfied with the interview which I had already en-
joyed with him, had no desire to cultivate his acquaint-
ance any further, and accordingly made for camp. We
left the fountain of Bootlonamy the same day, and
marched about six miles through an old gray forest of
mimosas, when we halted for the night. Large flocks
of Guinea-fowls roosted in the trees around our en-
campment, several of which I shot for my supper.
On the 2od we inspanned by moonlight, and contin-

UNLUCKY DAY.

25;i

ued our march through a thinly-wooded, level country,
[t was a lovely morning ; the sun rose in great pplen-
dor, and the sky was beautifully overcast with clouds.
Having proceeded about ten miles, the country became
thickly covered with detached forest-trees and groves
>f wait-a-bit thorns. The guides now informed us that
the water, which is called by the Bechuanas " Lepe-
by," was only a short distance in advance, upon which
I saddled steeds, and rode ahead with the Bushman, in-
tending to hunt for an hour before breakfast. Present-
ly we reached an open glade in the forest, where I ob-
served a herd of zebras in advance ; and on my left
stood a troop of springboks, with two leopards watch-
ing them from behind a bush. I rode on, and soon fell
in with a troop of hartebeests, and, a little after, with
a large herd of blue wildebeests and pallahs. I follow-
ed these for some distance, when they were re-enforced
by two other herds of pallahs and wildebeests. Three
black rhinoceroses now trotted across my path. Pres-
ently I sprang from my horse, and fired right and left
at a princely bull blue wildebeest. He got both balls,
but did not fall ; and I immediately lost sight of him
in the dense ranks of his shaggy companions. The
game increased as we proceeded, until the whole forest
seemed alive with a variety of beautifully-colored ani-
mals. On this occasion I was very unfortunate ; I
might have killed any quantity of game if venison had
been my object ; but I was trying to get a few very su-
perior heads of some of the master bucks of the pallahs.
Of these I wounded four select old bucks, but in the
dust and confusion caused by the innumerable quanti-
ty of the game I managed to lose them all.

We had now ridden many miles from the wagons ;
and feeling faint from want of food, I dropped the. chase

^54 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

in disgust, and, without looking at my compass, order-
ed the Bushman to go ahead. My attention had been
so engrossed with the excitement of the pursuit, that I
had not the remotest idea of the course I had taken, and
the whole country exhibited sucii an aspect of same-
ness, that there was no landmark nor eminence of any
description by which to steer. Having ridden many
miles through the forest, I at length asked tlie Bush-
man, in whom on such occasions I generally placed
great confidence, if he was sure he was riding in the
right direction, and, as he appeared quite confident, 1
allowed him to proceed. At length he said that we
had gone a little too far to the left, and led me away
several miles to the right, which was westerly ; where-
as the wagons eventually proved to be a long way to
the east. I felt convinced that we were wrong, and,
reining up, a discussion arose between us, the Bush-
man still maintaining that we must ride west, while I
was certain that our course should be east. I now
adopted my own opinion, and, having ridden many
miles in an easterly direction, we were at one time
close upon the wagons, when the thick-headed Bush-
man declared that if I persevered we should never see
the wagons again, and I with equal stupidity yielded
to his advice, and a southwesterly course was once
more adopted. Having ridden for many miles^ I again
reined up, and again told the Bushman we were wrong ;
upon which he foj the first time acknowledged that he
knew nothing at all about the matter, but stated it to
be his impression that we ought to ride further to the
west. My head was so confused that I lost all recol-
lection of how we had ridden ; and while I was delib-
erating what I should do, I observed a volume of smoke
a long way to the north, which I at once imagined had

GET LOST IN THE WOODS.

25t

bren kindled by my followers to guide their lost mas-
ter to the wagons.

With revived spirits, I stirred my jaded steed and
made for the smoke ; but, alas ! this only served to
lead me further astray. After riding many miles in
that direction, I discovered that the fire was at an
amazing distance, and could not have been kindled by
my men ; it was the wild Bakalahari of the desert burn-
ing the old dry grass. I was now like a seaman in a
hurricane — at m.y wit's end — I knew not how to ride
nor what to do. The sun, which had just risen when
I left the wagons, was about to set. There was no
landmark whatever by which to steer ; I might wan-
der for days, and not discover water.

To find the wagons was comparatively a trifle. I
thought little of them ; it was the thought of water
that harrowed my mind. Already the pangs of thirst
began to seize me. I had ridden all day, under the hot
sun, and had neither eaten nor drunk since early the
preceding evening. I felt faint and weary, and my
heart sank as horrible visions of a lingering death by
maddening thirst arose before me. Dismounting from
my horse, I sat down to think what I should do. I
knew exactly by my compass the course we had been
steering since we left Booby. I accordingly resolved
to ride southwest for many miles, the course of the
wagons having been northeast, and then to send Ruy-
ter across the country a little to the north of west,
^rhile I should hold a corresponding course in an east-
erly direction. By this means one of us could not fail
to find the spoor, and I arranged that at nightfall we
should meet at some conspicuous tree. Having thus
resolved, I mounted my horse, which was half dead
with thirst and fatigue, and, havins; ridden southwest

256 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA,

for several miles, I and Ruyter separated at a conspicu-
ous tree, and rode in opposite directions. Before riding
far I recognized the country as being the spot where I
had seen the leopards in the morning. I at once followed
Ruyter, and fired several signal shots, which he fortu-
nately heard, and soon joined me. We then rode due
east, and eventually, to my inexpressible gratification,
we discovered the spoor of the wagons, which we reached
after following it for about four miles in a northeasterly
direction.

Our poor horses were completely exhausted, and could
barely walk to the camp. I found my wagons drawn
up beside the strong fountain of Lepeby, which, issuing
from beneath a stratum of white tufous rock, formed an
extensive deep pool of pure water, adorned on one side
with lofty green reeds. This fountain was situated at
the northern extremity of a level bare vley, surrounded
by dense covers of the wait-a-bit thorns. Such a pe-
culiar sameness characterized the country, that a per-
son wandering only a few hundred yards from the fount-
ain would have considerable difficulty in regaining it.
It was night when I reached the wagons, and two or
three cups of coffee soon restored me to my wonted
vigor

On the following morning, from earliest dawn until
we trekked, which we did about 10 A.M., large herds
of game kept pouring in to drink from every side, com-
pletely covering the open space, and imparting to it the
appearance of a cattle-fair ; blue wildebeests, zebrasjr
sassaybies, pallahs, springboks, &c., capered fearlessly
up to the water, troop after troop, within two hundred
yards of us. In former years a tribe of Bechuanas had
frequented this fountain, and I beheld the skeletons of
many rhinoceroses and of one elephant bleaching in the

THE ILEPHANt's FOUNTAIN. 257

sun ; but the powerful and cruel Matabili had attacked
the tribe, and driven them to seek a home elsewhere.
[ shot a pallah and a wildebeest, which we secured be-
hind the wagons. About 10 A.M. we inspanned, and
within a mile of Lepeby we passed through another
similar open vley, containing a strong fountain of de-
licious water. We continued our march till sundo%vn
through an undulating open country, thinly covered
with detached trees and thorny bushes, and encamped
in a sandy desert without water.

CHAPTER XIV.

The BamaJigwato Mountains — The Elephant's Fountain — A Troop of
colossal Giraffes — Elephants drinking by Night — Habits of the Afri-
can Ele[)hant — Elephant Hunt — A Bull shot after a dungrerous En-
counter— Cutting out the Tusks — Extraordinary Rucks — Mountain
Retreat of Sicomy, King of Bamangwato — His Cunning — Barter Mus-
kets for Ivory — His Majesty's cui'ious Gun-practice — Trading for Na-
tive Weapons.

On the 25th, at dawn of day, we inspanned, and
trekked about five hours in a northeasterly course,
through a boundless open country sparingly adorned
with dwarfish old trees. In the distance the long-sought
mountains of Bamangwato at length loomed blue before
me. We halted beside a glorious fountain, which at
once made me forget all the cares and difficulties I had
encountered in reaching it. The name of this fountain
was Massouey, but I at once christened it " the Ele-
phant's own Fountain." This Mas a very remarkable
spot on the southern borders of endless elephant forests,
at which I had at length arrived. The fountain was deep

258 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

and strong, situated in a hollow at the eastern extrem*
ity of an extensive vley, and its margin was surround-
ed by a level stratum of solid old red sandstone. Here
and there lay a thick layer of soil upon the rock, and
this was packed flat with the fresh spoor of elephants.
Around the water's edge the very rock was worn down
by the gigantic feet which for ages had trodden there.
The soil of the surrounding country v>^as white and
yellow sand, but grass, trees, and bushes were abund-
ant. From the borders of the fountain a hundred well-
trodden elephant foot-paths led away in every direction,
like the radii of a circle. The breadth of these paths
was about three feet ; those leading to the northward
and east were the most frequented, the country in those
directions being well wooded. We drew up the wag-
ons on a hillock on the eastern side of the water. This
position commanded a good view of any game that
might approach to drink. I had just cooked my break-
fast, and commenced to feed, when I heard my men
exclaim, "Almagtig keek de ghroote clomp cameel;"
and, raising my eyes from my sassayby stew, I beheld a
truly beautiful and very unusual scene. From the mar-
gin of the fountain there extended an open level vley,
without a tree or bush, that stretched away about a
mile to the northward, where it was bounded by ex-
tensive groves of wide-spreading mimosas. Up the
middle of this vley stalked a troop of ten colossal gi-
raffes, flanked by two large herds of blue wildebeests
and zebras, with an advanced guard of pallahs. They
were all coming to the fountain to drink, and would be
within rifle-shot of the wagons before I could finish my
breakfast. I, however, continued to swallow my food
with the utmost expedition, having directed my men
to catch and saddle Colesberg. In a few minutes the

A TROOP OF GIRAFFES. S59

giraffes were slowly advancing within two hundred
yards, stretching their graceful necks, and gazing in
wonder at the unwonted wagons. Grasping my rifle,
I now mounted Colesberg, and rode slowly toward them.
They continued gazing at the wagons until I was with-
in one hundred yards of them, when, whisking their
long tails over their rumps, they made off at an easy
canter. As I pressed upon them they increased their
pace ; but Colesberg had much the speed of them, ai>d
before we had proceeded half a mile I was riding by
the shoulder of the dark-chestnut old bull, whose head
towered high above the rest. Letting fly at the gal-
lop, I wounded him behind the shoulder ; soon after
which I broke him from the herd, and presently, goino-
ahead of him, he came to a stand. I then gave him a
second bullet, somewhere near the first. These two
shots had taken effect, and he was now in my power,
but I would not lay him low so far from camp ; so,
having waited until he had regained his breath, I drove
him half way back toward the wagons. Here he be-
came obstreperous ; so, loading one barrel, and point-
ing my rifle toward the clouds, I shot him in the throat,
when, rearing high, he fell backward and expired. This
was a magnificent specimen of the giraffe, measuring
upward of eighteen feet in height. I stood for nearly
half an hour engrossed in the contemplation of his ex-
treme beauty and gigantic proportions ; and, if there
had been no elephants, I could have exclaimed, like
Duke Alexander of Gordon when he killed the famous
old stag with seventeen tine, " Now I can die happy."
But 1 longed for an encounter with the noble elephants,
and I thought little more of the giraffe than if I had
killed a gemsbok or an eland.

In the afternoon I removed my wagons to a correct

2G0 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

distance from the fountain, and drew them up among
some bushes about four hundred yards to leeward of
the water. In the evening I was employed in manu-
facturing hardened bullets for the elephants, using a
composition of one of pewter to four of lead ; and I had
just completed my work, when we heard a troop of el-
ephants splashing and trumpeting in the water. This
was to me a joyful sound ; I slept little that night.

On the 26th I arose at earliest dawn, and, having
fed four of my horses, proceeded with Isaac to the fount-
ain to examine the spoor of the elephants which had
drunk there during the night. A number of the paths
contained fresh spoor of elephants of all sizes, which
had gone from the fountain in different directions. We
reckoned that at least thirty of these gigantic quadru-
peds had visited the water during the night.

We hastily returned to camp, where, having break-
fasted, I saddled up, and proceeded to take up the spoor
of' the largest bull elephant, accompanied by after-
riders and three of the guides to assist in spooring. I
was also accompanied by my dogs. Having selected
the spoor of a mighty bull, the Bechuanas went ahead,
and I followed them. It was extremely interesting and
exciting work. The foot-print of this elephant was
about two feet in diameter, and was beautifully visible
in the soft sand. The spoor at first led us for about
three miles in an easterly direction, along one of the
sandy foot-paths, without a check. We then entered
a very thick forest, and the elephant had gone a little
out of the path to smash some trees, and to plow up the
earth with his tusks. He soon, however, again took
the path, and held along it for several miles.

We were on rather elevated ground, with a fine view
of a part of the Bamangwato chain of mountains be-

ELEPHANT HUNTING. 261

fore us. Here the trees were large and handsome, but
not strong enough to resist the inconceivable strength
of the mighty monarchs of these forests. Almost everjf
tree had half its branches broken short by them, and
at every hundred yards I came upon entire trees, and
these the largest in the forest, uprooted clean out of the
ground, or broken short across their stems. I observed
several large trees placed in an inverted position, hav-
ing their roots uppermost in the air. Our friend had
here halted, and fed for a long time upon a large, wide-
spreading tree, which he had broken short across within
a few feet of the ground. After following the spoor
some distance further through the dense mazes of the
forest, we got into ground so thickly trodden by ele-
phants that we were baffled in our endeavors to trace
the spoor any further ; and after wastin^everal hours
in attempting by casts to take up the proper spoor, we
gave it up, and with a sorrowful heart I turned my
horse's head toward camp.

Having reached the wagons, while drinking my cof
fee I reviewed the whole day's work, and felt much re-
gret at my want of luck in my first day's elephant
hunting, and I resolved that night to watch the water,
and try what could be done with elephants by night
shooting. I accordingly ordered the usual watching-
hole to be constructed, and, having placed my bedding
in it, repaired thither shortly after sundown. I had
lain about two hours in the hole, when I heard a low
rumbling noise like distant thunder, caused (as the
Bechuanas affirmed) by the bowels of the elephants
which were approaching the fountain. I lay or. my
back, with my mouth open, attentively listening, and
could hear them plowing up the earth with their tusks.
Presently they walked up to the water, and commenced

262 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

drinking within fifty yards of me. They approaclied
with so quiet a step that I fancied it was the footsteps
of jackals which I heard, and I was not aware of their
presence until I heard the water, which they had drawn
up in their trurks and were pouring into their mouths,
dropping into the fountain. I then peeped from my
sconce with a beating heart, and beheld two enormous
bull elephants, which looked like two great castles,
standing before me. I could not see very distinctly,
for there was only starlight. Having lain on my breast
some time taking my aim, I let fly at one of the ele-
phants, using the Dutch rifle carrying six to the pound.
The ball told loudly on his shoulder, and, uttering a
loud cry, he stumbled through the fountain, when both
made off in different directions.

All night l«rge herds of zebras and blue wildebeests
capered around me, coming sometimes within a few
yards. Several parties of rhinoceroses also made their
appearance. I felt a little apprehensive that lions might
visit the fountain, and every time that hyaenas or jack-
als lapped the water I looked forth, but no lions ap-
peared. At length I fell into a sound sleep, nor did I
again raise my head until the bright star of morn had
shot far above the eastern horizon.

Before proceeding further with my narrative, it may
here be interesting to make a few remarks on the Afri-
can elephant and his habits. The elephant is widely
diffused through the vast forests, and is met with in
herds of various numbers. The male is very much
larger than the female, consequently much more diffi-
cult to kill. He is provided with two enormous tusks.
These are long, tapering, and beautifully arched ; their
length averages from six to eight feet, and they weigh
from sixty to a hundred pounds each. In the vicinity

HABITS OF THE ELEPHANT. 263

of the equator the elephants attain to a greater size
than to the southward ; and I am in the possession of
a pair of tusks of the African bull elephant, the larger
of which measures ten feet nine inches in length, and
weighs one hundred and seventy-three pounds. The
females, unlike Asiatic elephants in this respect, are
likewise provided with tusks. The price which the
largest ivory fetches in the English market is from
d£28 to d£32 per hundred and twelve pounds. Old bull
elephants are found singly or in pairs, or consorting to-
gether in small herds, varying from six to twenty in-
dividuals. The younger bulls remain for many years
in the company of their mothers, and these are met to-
gether in large herds of from twenty to a hundred in-
dividuals. The food of the elephant consists of the
branches, leaves, and roots of trees, and also of a variety
of bulbs, of the situation of which he is advised by his
exquisite sense of smell. To obtain these he turns up
the ground with his tusks, and whole acres may be
seen thus plowed up. Elephants consume an immense
quantity of food, and pass the greater part of the day
and night in feeding. Like the whale in the ocean, the
elephant on land is acquainted with, and roams over,
wide and extensive tracts. He is extremely particular
in always frequenting the freshest and most verdant
districts of the forest ; and when one district is parched
and barren, he will forsake it for years, and wander to
great distances in quest of better pasture.

The elephant entertains an extraordinary horror cf
man, and a child can put a hundred of them to flight
by passing at a quarter of a mile to windward ; and
when thus disturbed, they go a long way before they
halt. It is surprising how soon these sagacious animals
are aware of the presence of a hunter in their domains.

264 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

When one troop has been attacked, all the other ele-
phants frequenting the district are aware of the fact
within two or three days, when they all forsake it, and
migrate to distant parts, leaving the hunter no alterna-
tive but to inspan his wagons, and remove to fresh
ground. This constitutes one of the greatest difficul-
ties which a skillful elephant-hunter encounters. Even
in the most remote parts, which may be reckoned the
head-quarters of the elephant, it is only occasionally,
and with inconceivable toil and hardship, that the eye
of the hunter is cheered by the sight of one. Owing
to habits peculiar to himself, the elephant is more in-
accessible, and much more rarely seen, than any other
game quadruped, excepting certain rare antelopes.
They choose for their resort the most lonely and se-
cluded depths of the forest, generally at a very great
distance from the rivers and fountains at which they
drink. In dry and warm weather they visit these
waters nightly, but in cool and cloudy weather they
Irink only once every third or fourth day. About sun-
down the elephant leaves his distant mid-day haunt,
and commences his march toward the fountain, which
is probably from twelve to twenty miles distant. This
he generally reaches between the hours of nine and
midnight, when, having slaked his thirst and cooled
his body by spouting large volumes of water over his
back with his trunk, ho resumes the path to his forest
solitudes. Having reached a secluded spot, I have re-
marked that full-grown bulls lie down on their broad-
sides, about the hour of midnight, and sleep for a few
hours. The spot which they usually select is an ant-
hill, and they lie around it with their backs resting
against it; these hills, formed by the white ants, are
from thirty to forty feet in diameter at their base. Tho

HABITS OF THE ELEPHANT. 265

mark of the undei* tusk is always deeply imprinted in
the ground, proving that they lie upon their sides. I
never remarked that females had thus lain down, and
it is only in the more secluded districts that the bulls
adopt this practice ; for I observed that, in districts
where the elephants were liable to frequent disturb-
ance, they took repose standing on their legs beneath
some shady tree. Having slept, they then proceed to
feed extensively. Spreading out from one another, and
proceeding in a zigzag course, they smash and destroy
all the finest trees in the forest which happen to lie in
their course. The number of goodly trees which a herd
of bull elephants will thus destroy is utterly incredible.
They are extremely capricious, and on coming to a
group of five or six trees, they break down not unfre-
tjuently the whole of them, when, having perhaps only
tasted one or two small branches, they pass on and
continue their wanton work of destruction. I have re-
peatedly ridden through, forests Avhere the trees thus
broken lay so thick across one another that it was al-
most impossible to ride through the district, and it is
in situations such as these that attacking the elephant
is attended with most danger. During the night they
will feed in open plains and thinly-wooded districts, but
as day dawns they retire to the densest covers within
reach, which nine times in ten are composed of the im-
practicable wait-a-bit thorns, and here they remain
drawn up in a compact herd during the heat of the
day. In remote districts, however, and in cool weather,
I have known herds to continue pasturing throughout
the whole day.

The appearance of the wild elephant is inconc^i-ibly
majestic and imposing. His gigantic height and co-
lossal bulk, so greatly surpassing all other quadrupeds.

Vq;.. I._M

26b ADVEXTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

combined with his sagacious disposition and peculiar
habits, impart to him an interest in the eyes of the
hunter which no other animal can call forth. The
pace of the elephant, when undisturbed, is a bold, free,
sweeping step ; and from the peculiar spongy formation
of his foot, his tread is extremely light and inaudible,
and all his movements are attended with a peculiar
gentleness and grace. This, however, ony applies to
the elephant when roaming undisturbed in his jungle ;
for, when roused by the hunter, he proves the most dan-
gerous enemy, and far more difficult to conquer than
any other beast of the chase.

On the 27th, as day dawned, I left my shooting,
hole, and proceeded to inspect the spoor of my wound-
ed, elephant. After following it for some distance I
came to an abrupt hillock, and fancying that from tho
summit a good view might be obtained of the sur-
rounding country, I left my followers to seek the spoor
while I ascended. I did not raise my eyes from the
ground until I had reached the highest pinnacle of rock.
I then looked east, and, to my inexpressible gratifica-
tion, beheld a troop of nine or ten elephants quietly
browsing within a quarter of a mile of me. I allowed
myself only one glance at them, and then rushed down
to warn my followers to be silent. A council of war
was hastily held, the result of which was my ordering
Isaac to ride hard to camp, with instructions to return
as quickly as possible, accompanied by Kleinboy, and
to bring me my dogs, the large Dutch rifle, and a fresh
horse. I once more ascended the hillock to feast my
eyes upon the enchanting sight before me, and, drawing
out my spy-glass, narrowly watched the motions of the
elephants. The herd consisted entirely of females, sev-
eral of which were followed by small calves.

HERDS OF ELEPHANTS. 267

Presently, on reconnoitering the surrounding coun-
try, I discovered a second herd, consisting of five bull
elephants, which were quietly feeding about a mile to
the northward. The cows were feeding toward a
rocky ridge that stretched away from the base of the
hillock on which I stood. Burning with impatience to
commence the attack, I resolved to try the stalking sys-
tem with these, and to hunt the troop of bulls with
dogs and horses. Having thus decided, I directed the
guides to watch the elephants from the summit of the
hillock, and with a beating heart 1 approached them.
The ground and wind favoring me, I soon gained the
rocky ridge toward which they were feeding. They
were now within one hundred yards, and 1 resolved to
enjoy the pleasure of watching their movements for a
little before I fired. They continued to feed slowly
toward me, breaking the branches from the trees with
their trunks, and eating the leaves and tender shoots.
I soon selected the finest in the herd, and kept my eye
on her in particular. At length two of the troop had
walked slowly past at about sixty yards, and the one
which I had selected was feeding with two others, on
a thorny tree before me.

My hand was now as steady as the rock on which it
rested ; so, taking a deliberate aim, I let fly at her head
a little behind the eye. She get it hard and sharp, just
where I aimed, but it did not seem to affect her much.
Uttering a loud cry, she wheeled about, when I gave
her the second ball close behind the shoulder. All
the elephants uttered a strange rumbling noise, and
made off in a line to the northward at a brisk am
biing pace, their huge, fan-like ears flapping in the
ratio of their speed. I did not wait to load, but ran
back to the hillock to obtain a view. On gaining its

268 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

summit, the guides pointed out the elephants ; they
were standing in a grove of shady trees, but the
wounded one was some distance behind with another
elephant, doubtless its particular friend, who was en-
deavoring to assist it. These elephants had probably
never before heard the report of a gun, and, having
neither seen nor smelt me, they were unaware of the
presence of man, and did not seem inclined to go any
further. Presently my men hove in sight, bringing
the dogs ; and when these came up, I waited some
time before commencing the attack, that the dogs and
horses might recover their wind. We then rode slow-
ly toward the elephants, and had advanced within two
hundred yards of them when, the ground being open,
they observed us, and made off in an easterly direction ;
but the wounded one immediately dropped astern, and
the next moment was surrounded by the dogs, which,
barking angrily, seemed to engross her attention.

Having placed myself between her and the retreat-
ing troop, I dismounted to fire within forty yards of
her, in open ground. Colesberg was extremely afraid
of the elephants, and gave me much trouble, jerking
my arm when I tried to fire. At length I let fly ; but,
on endeavoring to regain my saddle, Colesberg declined
to allow me to mount ; and when I tried to lead him,
and run for it, he only backed toward the wounded ele-
phant. At this moment I heard another elephant close
behind ; and on looking about, I beheld the " friend,"
with uplifted trunk, charging down upon me at top
speed, shrilly trumpeting, and following an old black
pointer named Schwart, that was perfectly deaf, and
trotted along before the enraged elephant quite unaware
of what was behind him. I felt certain that she would
have either me or my horse. I, however, determined

A PERILOUS ENCOUNTER. 269

not to relinquish my steed, but to hold on by the bri-
dle. My men, who of course kept at a safe distance,
stood aghast with their mouths open, and for a few sec-
onds my position was certainly not an enviable one.
Fortunately, however, the dogs took off the attention
of the elephants ; and just as they were upon me, I
managed to spring into the saddle, where I was safe.
As I turned my back to mount, the elephants were so
very near that I really expected to feel one of their
trunks lay hold of me. I rode up to Kleinboy for my
double-barreled two-grooved rifle : he and Isaac were
pale and almost speechless with fright. Returning to
the charge, I was soon once more alongside, and, firing
from the saddle, I sent another brace of bullets into the
wounded elephant. Colesberg was extremely unsteady,
and destroyed the correctness of my aim.

The friend now seemed resolved to do some mischief,
and charged me furiously, pursuing me to a distance
of several hundred yards. I therefore deemed it proper
to give her a gentle hint to act less officiously, and, ac-
cordingly, having loaded, I approached within thirty
yards, and gave it her sharp, right and left, behind the
shoulder, upon which she at once made off with droop-
ing trunk, evidently with a mortal wound. I never re-
cur to this my first day's elephant shooting without re-
gretting my folly in contenting myself with securing
only one elephant. The first was now dying, and could
not leave the ground, and the second was also mortal-
ly wounded, and I had only to follow and finish her;
but I foolishly allowed her to escape, while I amused
myself with the first, which kept walking backward,
and standing by every tree she passed. Two more
shots finished her : on receiving them, she tossed her
trunk up and down two or three times, and, falling on

270 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

her broadside against a thorny tree, which yielded like
grass before her enormous weight, she uttered a deep
hoarse cry and expired, - This was a very handsome
old cow elephant, and was decidedly the best in the
troop. She was in excellent condition, and carried a
pair of long and perfect tusks. 1 was in high spirits at
my success, and felt so perfectjy satisfied with having
killed one, that, although it was still early in the day,
and my horses were fresh, I allovv^ed the troop of five
bulls to remain unmolested, foolishly trusting to fall in
with them next day. How little did I then know of
the habits of elephants, or the rules to be adopted in
hunting them, or deem it probable I should never see
them more!

Having knee-haltered our horses, we set to work with
our knives and assagais to prepare the skull for the
hatchet, in order to cut out the tusks, nearly half the
length of which, I may mention, is imbedded in bone
sockets in the fore part of the skull. To cut out the
tusks of a cow elephant requires barely one fifth of the
labor requisite to cut out those of a bull; and when the
sun w^ent down, we had managed by our combined ef-
forts to cut out one of the tusks of my first elephant,
with which we triumphantly returned to camp, hav-
ing left the guides in charge of the carcass, where they
volunteered to take up their quarters for the night.
On reaching my wagons I found Johannus and Carol-
lus in a happy state of indifference to all passing
events: they were both very drunk, having broken into
my wine-cask and spirit-case.

On the 28th I arose at an eariy hour, and, burning
with anxiety to look forth once more from the summit
of the hillock which the day before brought me such
luck, I made a hasty breakfast, and rode thither with

MARCH TO THE KRAAL OF SICOMY. 271

after-riders and my aogs. But, alas! I had allowed the
golden opportunity to slip. This day I sought in vain;
and although I often again ascended to the summit of
my favorite hillock on that and on the succeeding year,
my eyes were destined never again to hail from it a
troop of elephants.

Early on the following morning I proceeded to in-
spect the sandy foot-paths leading from the fountain,
and at once discovered the spoor of two mighty bull el-
ephants that had drunk there during the night. These
I followed, but did not succeed in coming up with the
objects of my search.

We were now within two days' march of the kraal
of the great chief Sicoray, king of the extensive terri-
tory of Bamangwato. This chief was reported to be
in the possession of large quantities of ivory ; and as I
had brought a number of muskets and other articles
for barter, I was anxious to push on and first get over
my trading before resuming elephant hunting, more
especially since it was not improbable that, having
once led the way, other adventurers might follow in my
track, and perhaps spoil my market. Taking this into
consideration, I deemed it proper, on the morning of
the 30th, to march upon the kraal of Sicomy ; and, ac-
cordingly, about 10 A.M. we inspanned, and held for
the Bamangwato mountains, whose summits we could
see peering above the intervening forest in an easterly
direction. On our march we passed near to the car-
cass of the elephant which I had slain three days be-
fore. The number of vultures which were here con-
gregated was truly wonderful. My guides had baked
a part of the trunk and two of the feet of the elephant,
and these they now brought to the wagons.*

* It was ever to me a source of great pleasare to reflect tint, while

272 AI 'ENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

On the following morning, which w^as the 1st of July
wo inspanned at dawn of day, and late in the after
noon we reached Lesausau, having performed an ex-
tremely arduous and fatiguing march. Our ruute dur-
ing the greater part of the day lay through dense jun-
gle and thorny thickets, where it was necessary to clear
a way with our axes before the wagons could pass.
The ground also w^as in many places extremely rocky,
and threatened the destruction of my wheels and axle-
trees, causing us much labor, it being indispensable to
remove the masses of rock to one side. As w^e neared
Lesausau, we entered upon a broad level strath, adorned
throughout its length and breadth with a variety of pic-
turesque acacia and other trees, which stood at intervals
as if they had been planted by the hand of man. On
either side, the mountains rose abruptly /rom the plain,
and they now assumed a very bold and striking appear-
ance, their sides and summits consisting of huge masses
of rock piled one above another, some of which seemed
so balanced upon their exalted and narrow pedestals,

" As if an infant's touch could urge
Their headlong passage down tlie verge."

A hght and feathery fringe of dwarfish trees and va-
rieties of gigantic cacti adorned the sides and upper

enriching myself in following my favorite pursuit of elephant hunting,
I was feeding and making happy the starving families of hundreds of
the Bechuana and Bakalahari tribes, who invariably followed my wag
ens, and assisted me in my hunting, in numbers varying from fifty to
two hundred at a time. These men were often accompanied by their
wives and families, and when an elephant, hippopotamus, or other large
animal was slain, all hands repaired to the spot, when every inch of the
animal was reduced to biltongue, viz., cut into long narrow strips, and
hung in festoons upon poles, and dried in the sun: even the entrails
were not left for the vultures and hyamas, and the very bones were
chopped to pieces with their hatchets to obtain the marrow, with which
they enriched their soup.

BAIMANGWATO AVARRIORS. 27o

ridges of these rugged mountains, and, as v,''e proceed-
ed, I observed finely-wooded wild ravines stretching
away into the bosom of the mountains.

Here we were joined by three of Sicomy's men, who
informed us that they were in daily apprehension of an
attack from the Matabili, who they heard were march-
ing against tliem. In consequence of this, Sicomy and
all his tribe had forsaken their kraals, and were now liv-
ing in wild caves and other secluded retreats in the sides
and on the summits of these rocky mountains. They
led us round the base of a bold projecting rock, and then
up a wild and well-wooded rocky ravine, bearing no
traces of men. On raising our eyes, however, we per-
ceived the summits of the rocks covered with women
and children, and very soon detached parties of Sicomy's
warriors came pouring in from different directions, to
gaze upon the white man, I being the first that many
of them had seen. These men were all armed and
ready for action, each bearing an oval shield of ox, buf-
falo, or camelopard's hide, a battle-ax, and three or four
assagais. They wore karosses of jackal's and leopard's
skins, which depended gracefully from their shoulders ;
and many of them sported a round tuft of black ostrich*
feathers on their heads, while others had adorned their
woolly hair with one or two wavy plumes of white
ones. Both men and women wore abundance of the
usual ornaments of beads and brass and copper wire.

"We were presently met by a messenger from Sico-
my, saying that the king was iiappy we had arrived,
and that he would shortly come to see me. We pro-
ceeded up the bold and narrow ravine of Lesausau as
far as it was practicable, the water being situated at
its upper extremity. Soon after we had encamped
Sicomy drew nigh, accompanied by a largn rdinuc of
M 2

874 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

his principal men and warriors. He appeared to me to
be about thirty years of age, and was of middle stature.
His distinguishing feature is a wall-eye, which imparts
to his countenance a roguish look that does not belie
the cunning and deceitful character of the man. As
he came up to the wagons I met and shoolc hands with
him, and invited him to partake of coffee with me. I
could see that he was enchanted at my arrival. He
talked at a very rapid pace, and assumed an abrupt and
rather dictatorial manner, occasionally turning round
and cracking jokes with his counselors and nobility.
He was very anxious to ascertain from Isaac the con-
tents of the wagons, and said that he would buy every
thing I had brought, and that he would give me a large
bull elephant's tusk for each of my muskets.

This was a fishing remark to hear what I should say;
so I replied that the muskets cost many teeth in my
own country, and that I had not stolen them. I had
resolved to niaintain a firm and independent manner in
my dealings with him, treating him, at the same time,
with the utmost affability. I told him that other men
feared to come so far to trade with him, but that his
friend Dr. Livingstone had directed me to come, and
had sent him a present by me. I then gave him Dr.
Livingstone's present, with a similar one from myself,
consisting of beads, snuiT, and ammunition. It amus-
ed me to observe the timid and cringing demeanor of
the men of Booby when seated in the presence of the
king. Approaching him with the utmost humility,
they saluted him by stretching out their hands and
clapping the palms together, saying at the same time
" Rumela, cosi," signifying Hail, king! which his maj-
esty was graciously pleased to acknowledge by squint-
ing at them with his cock-eve. and saving " Eh,*' which

INTERVIEW WITH SICOMY. 275

,s the invariable Bechuana acknowledgment of a salu-
tation. Often, however, when I saluted the natives,
they acknowledged my salutation by saying " Eh !
keitumela, cosi a Machoa;" signifying "Eh! thank
you, king of the white men." Having saluted the king,
the Booby men at once proceeded to expatiate upon the
difficulty they had had in prevailing upon the great
white man to visit his dominions, and the meritorious
manner in which they had conducted me thither; for
which the king expressed his gratitude, and ordered
" boyalwa," or native beer, to be placed before them.
Sicomy remained long at the wagons, engaged in deep
and constant conversation with my interpreter and sev-
eral of his elder counselors, and at a late hour he de-
parted, promising to visit us early on the following day.
Fearing that any of his people might come and trade
with me during his absence, the king instructed his
uncle Mutchuisho, with a retinue, to remain beside the
wagons during the night.

At an early hour on the following morning the king
made his appearance, attended by a number of his war-
riors, all carrying their battle gear. I was still in
bed, and, seeing the king peeping into my wagon, I
pretended to be asleep. Presently I observed a sav-
age coming up the glen bearing on his shoulders a
bull 'elephant's tooth, which he laid under the wagon.
Coffee was now announced, so I arose, and the king
breakfasted with me. I had resolved to say as little as
possible about the trading, and to appear Very indiffer-
ent, a system indispensable in trading with the natives,
which at all times progresses slowly, but much more
so if the trader allows them to imagine that he is very
anxious to obtain possession of their goods.*

* In trading with the Bechiiauas, the most .iifficuU point is agreeing

276 ADVENTURES .7X SOUTH AFRICA.

While Sicomy was taking his coffee, he told me that
he had dispatched men to bring elephants' teeth, which
he said.were at a distance, and that ho would purchase
every thing as quickly as possible, that I might be en-
abled to leave the country before the Matabili should
come. This rumor about the Matabili I at the time
suspected to be a fabrication, but I subsequently as-
certained that it was a fact.

In the forenoon I occupied myself in writing my jour-
nal in my wagon, and I could see that the king was an-
noyed at ray indifference about the trading. At length
he asked me to come out of the wagon, saying that he
had got a present for me, and he brought forward the
elephant's tusk which lay beneath the wagon. Hav-
ing thanked him, I expressed myself satisfied with his
present, and, in return, immediately presented him with
what he reckoned an equivalent in beads. He asked
me the price of my muskets, and I answered four large
bull's teeth for each. He then retired to an adjacent
grove of shady trees, where he sat consulting with his
men for hours. Two men at length appeared, coming
from opposite directions, each bearing a bull's tooth.
When these arrived, Sicomy ordered them to be placed
before me, and, calling Isaac, he inflicted on me a long

about the price of any article in the first instance ; and often, wlien ti'ad
ing has once commeuced, and the natives are satisfied with tlie- price,
exchanges are effected rapidly. It is generally necessary for the trader
to ask a little more than he expects to get, that he may appear to yield
to their importunity, otherwise they would not deal with him. They
never conclude a bargain in a hurry, and always deem it necessary to
ask the advice of nearly every one present before they can make up
their minds; and if it should happen that any one individual present
disapprove of the bargain, the exchange is for the time at an end.

I have more than once been prevented from effecting a sale, which I
had all but concluded, by some old wife, who happened to be passing
at the moment, exclaiming that I was too high in my prices, although
she was perfectly ignorant of our transaction.

A TOUGH CUSTOMER. 277

harangue, talking all manner of nonsense, and endeav-
oring to obtain a nnusket for these two teeth. At
length a third tusk was brought, but it was a small
one. It was now late in the afternoon, so I told the
king that I was going to take a walk in the mountains
to obtain a view of his country. He said that he was
going to buy one of the muskets immediately, and re-
quested that I would not leave the wagons. After sit-
ting talking with his men till it was near sunset, he
once more offered me two tusks for a gun. I replied
that I had already spoken. He then said he was going
home, and that he did not know if he would come again
to trade with me. If the king had indeed resolved not
to trade with me, no request on my part would have
altered the case. So I replied that I had never asked
him to purchase any thing, and was perfectly indiffer-
ent whether he did or not; that there were othei t^hiefs
who were anxious to purchase my goods, and that my
reason for visiting his territory was to enjoy the sport
of elephant hunting. Having thus spoken, I wished
him good evening, and, shouldering my rifle, stalked
up the rocky ravine and shot two baboons.

At an early hour on the following morning Sicomy
was at the wagons, and, having breakfasted, he com-
menced as on the previous day to endeavor to purchase
a gun with two tusks. At length I said that he should
have one for three tusks, provided they were large
After a protracted discussion, the third tusk was pro-
duced, when I handed him a musket. He next bother-
ed for a bullet-mold, which I also gave him into the bar-
gain. Havinsr obtained the mold, he insisted on hav-
ing a lead-ladle. That I said I could not give him with
one gun ; but promised if he dealt liberally with me he
should have one He continued his importunity about

278 VDVENTURES IN SOUTH \FRICA.

the ladle til! late in the afternoon, when he began to
talk about buying a second gun. Three tusks were
brought, and we had nearly concluded a bargain, when
■eome of his counselors told him that he ought to have
received powder and bullets along with the first gun.
He commenced to pester me on this subject ; but I
stoutly resisted, and told him the bargain was conclud-
ed. He, however, continued to harp on this string till
a late hour, w^hen I told him, as I had done the preced-
ing day, that I must now take a walk ; and I remarked
that, if he thought he had given too much for my gun,
he had better return it, and take away his tusks. Hav-
ing consulted a short time with his wise men, he re-
turned the gun, and resumed possession of his tusks.
I then shouldered my rifle, and held for the wells, to
give the dogs water.

These wells were situated at a great distance from
my camp, and yielded a very moderate supply of water.
Here I met with large parties of the Bamangwato
women drawing water, which they bore in earthen ves-
sels balanced on their heads to their elevated retreats
in the mountains. The pits where my oxen drank
were very distant from the camp, and were reported
not to yield a sufficient supply oi" water, the conse-
quence of which was that my horses and oxen had al-
ready greatly fallen off" in condition. In this state of
things, I resolved that my stay at Bamangwato should
not exceed another day, and I determined, if possible,
to come to terms with Sicomy on the following morn-
ing. On returning to the wagons, Carollus came up to
me and reported half the oxen missing. This threw
me into a state of great alarm. I at once suspected
treachery, and I well knew that if Sicomy had taken
them they would not easily be recovered. I instantly

DILATORY MODE OF TRADING. 279

dispatched two mounted men in different directions,
with instructions to ride hard and seek the spoor, and
these returned at a late hour, having found them.

On reviewing my trading, I could not help feeling
annoyed at the dilatory mode in which it progressed.
I had now spent two entire days endeavoring to trade,
yet no exchanges had been effected. For this, how-
ever, there was no help. I could not have acted other-
wise, and on the following day I reaped the benefit of
my unyielding resolution.

Althougli I voted the trading an intense bore, it was
nevertheless well worth a little time and inconvenience,
on account of the enormous profit I should realize. The
price I had paid for the muskets was ^16 for each case
containing twenty muskets, and the value of the ivory
I required for each musket was upward of £30, being
about 3000 per cent., which I am informed is reckoned
among mercantile men to be a very fair profit. Sicomy
was in those days in the possession of very large quan-
tities of splendid ivory, and still considerable quantities
pass annually through his hands. Since I first visited
Bamangwato, and taught the natives the use of fire-
arms, they have learned to kill the elephant themselves;
but previous to my arrival they were utterly incapable
of subduing a full-grown elephant, even by the united
exertions of the whole tribe. All the ivory which Sico-
my then possessed, and the majority of that which still
passes through his hands, is obtained from elephants
slain with assagais by an active and daring race of
Bushmen inhabiting very remote regions to the north-
^vard and northwest of Bamangwato.

The manner in which Sicomy obtained this ivory was
by sending a party of his warriors to the Bushman,
who first obtained the tusks in barter for a few beads,

280 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

and then compelled some of the poor Bakalahari, or
wild natives of the desert, over whomx Sicomy conceives
that he has a perfect right to tyrannize, to bear them
on their shoulders across extensive deserts of burning
sand to his head-quarters at Bamangwato. So great
was the fatigue endured by the poor Bakalahari on these
occasions, that many of tliem died of exhaustion before
reaching Bamangwato. At an early hour on the 4th,
Sicomy not appearing, I proceeded to visit him at his
mountain residence, accompanied by Isaac and a party
of his own men. We wound along the base of the
mountains for the distance of half a mile, and then
commenced ascending the almost perpendicular and
rugged mountain side, consisting of immense masses
of rock heaped together in dire confusion. Having
gained the summit, which was of a tabular character,
we advanced a short distance through a succession of
heaps of disjointed masses of rock, and presently we
reached the chief's temporary retreat, which consisted
of a small circular hut, composed of a frame-work of
boughs of trees, interlined with twigs and covered with
grass. A number of similar huts were erected around
the royal dwelling, on areas which his men had cleared
among the rocks. This, however, was the abode of only
a very small part of his tribe, which was extensively
scattered over different parts of the mountain range,
and occupied sundry distant cattle outposts.

I found Sicomy seated before his wigwam, in earnest
conversation with his counselors. He seemed pleased
to see me, and thanked me for my visit. I shook hands
with him, and informed him that, owing to the scar-
city of water at Lesausau, I could not prolong my visit
to him, and that I had come to take my leave, and had
brought him a few presents, which I then laid before

BRISK BARTER.

281

him. He thanked me, and said that I was very good,
and that he was happy that I had visited his country ;
but that one thing made his heart sore, viz., that we
had not been able to trade. I replied that that was his
fault, and not mine, having offered him my goods on
equally liberal terms as I did to others. I then ex-
pressed myself anxious to depart. Hereupon Sicomy
requested me to remain with him another day, promis-
ing to bring me abundance of tusks, and to purchase
all my muskets. To this I replied that I was still will-
ing to deal with him, if he would only deal fairly ; but
I gave him to understand that this was positively the
last day I could remain with him. We then all start-
ed for the wagons, where this day the barter went on
as briskly as it had been dilatory on the two preceding
ones. The king continued drinking coffee and taking
snuff at a tremendous rate, and large bowls of his bo-
yalwa kept continually arriving, and were freely circu-
lated throughout the day. Sicomy gave me three bull's
tusks for each of the first tw^o muskets, I giving him
some powder and lead to boot; after which the price
fell to two tusks for each musket. With this rate of
exchange the whole assembly seemed perfectly satis-
fied, .and the trading went on without a murmur. Ath-
letic savages were constantly coming and going through-
out the day in three different directions, bearing on their
shoulders the precious spoils of the elephants of the
Kalahari ; and when the sun went down, all my mus-
kets were disposed of, and I found myself in the posses-
sion of a very valuable lot of ivory.

I also effected several exchanges of beads and am-
munition for the tusks of cow elephants. I had resolved
to purchase fine specimens of the native costume and
arms, &c. ; but ivory being the most important article,

282 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

it was best to defer all minor transactions until our
trade in it was concluded. The king seemed highly
delighted with his purchases, and insisted on discharg-
ing each of the muskets as he bought it. It was amus-
ing to see the manner in which he performed this oper-
ation. Throwing back his kaross, and applying the
stock to his naked shoulder, he shut his good eye, and
kept the wall-eye open, to the intense amusement of
the Hottentots, who were his instructors on the occa-
sion. Each report caused the utmost excitement and
merriment among the warriors, who pressed forward,
and requested that they also might be permitted to try
iheir skill with these novel implements of war.

The king had in his possession a most wonderful
knob-kerry, which I was determined to obtain. It was
made of the horn of the kobaoba, a very rare species of
the rhinoceros, and its chief interest consisted in its ex-
traordinary length, which greatly exceeded any thing
I had ever seen of the kind before, or have since met
with. Handing Sicomy my snuff-box, I pointed to the
kerry, and asked him where the kobaoba had been
killed. He replied that that kerry had been sent him
by a chief who resided at an amazing distance on the
borders of the Lake of Boats. I then asked him to pre-
sent it to ine, that I might have something to keep in
remembrance of him ; but he replied that it belonged
to his wife, and he could not part with it. Presently,
however, while sipping his coffee, he said that if I chose
I might purchase it. I asked him what he required
for it, and he answered, the cup which he then held full
of gunpowder. Accordingly, when his majesty had
drained the cup, I handed him the powder, and became
possessor of the kobaoba kerry, which is now in my
possession, and on which I place a very great value.

A BECHUANA BIVOUAC. 283

It was now night, and the king said that he would
sleep by the wagons, as it was too late to go home.
A number of his men prepared for the bivouac, some
collecting logs for the nocturnal watch-fire, which the
Bechuanas invariably keep up, while others were occu-
pied in forming circular hedges of thorny branches
around the fires, within which they carefully leveled
the ground with pomted sticks, preparator}'' to spread-
ing out their couches, which consist of long, dried grass,
and extend in a circular form around the fire. On
these couches the Bechuanas sleep, with the soles of
their feet to the fire, with no other covering than a light
kaross. They lie huddled together like silver spoons on
a tray, and the number of individuals around each fire
is usually about a dozen. Before retiring to rest I in-
formed Sicomy that I should march on the morrow as
soon as my oxen had drunk, and I expressed ray wish
to trade with his people for karosses and armor at an
early hour. Sicomy promised that these articles should
be forthcoming, and at once informed his people of my
wish.

At an early hour on the morning of the 5th, I com-
menced to trade with Sicomy's men for karosses and
Bechuana arms, of each of which I obtained some very
fine specimens. With these, as with the ivory, there
was considerable discussion before the prices could be
agreed on in the first instance, after which exchanges
were effected rapidly. I had, however, to pay them
long prices for their " chakas" or battle-axes, on which
all the Bechuana tribes place a very great value.

I had intended to penetrate beyond Bamangwato,
with a wish to explore the country, and for the purpose
of hunting elephants ; but, owing to gross misrepre-
sentations made to me by Isaac relative to Sicomy's

284 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

wishes on the subject, and partly owing to the threat-
ened attack from the Matabili, I resolved for the pres-
ent not to extend my peregrinations beyond Ba'man-
gwato, but to occupy my time for the remainder of that
season in hunting throughout the fine country between
Bamangwato and Sichely's mountains. As Isaac's
character, however, gradually unfolded itself to me,
and as I became more intimate and conversant with
the natives, I discovered that he had interpreted Si-
comy's wishes to me in utterly false colors ; and I aft-
erward ascertained from the natives, whose language
I very soon began to understand, that Sicomy and his
people were not only willing, but anxious that I should
remain and hunt elephants in their territory. In con-
sequence of this, as the reader will shortly learn, being
informed by Sicomy's men that the invasion by the
Matabili was no longer apprehended, I returned to Ba-
mangwato, and penetrated into the extensive forest to
*the northward and eastward of that mountain range
where for several months I continued hunting ele
phants, accompanied by large parties of Sicomy's mer

TAKE LEAVE OF SICOMY. 285

CHAPTER XV.

Take leave of Sicomy — Digging for Water — The Elephant's Fountain
again — A wounded Roan Antelope bays in the Water, and kills my
Dogs right and left — Sicomy's Camp again — We march through a
beautiful Valley — Curious Instinct of the Rhinoceros Bird — A mighty
Bull Elephant shot after a hard Conflict — Mutchuisho's Attentions
more charitable than pleasant — Cutting up an Elephant — A strange
Scene — Baking the Flesh — Primitive Tobacco-pipes — Biltongue Fes-
toons.

About 11 o'clock A.M. on the 5th of July, every-
thing being ready, I took leave of Sicomy and retraced
my steps for Corriebely. It caused me much pain and
anxiety to observe that my cattle were extremely hol-
low-looking and spiritless from want of water, not one
of them having obtained a sufficiency of that essential
of life since they had last drunk at Corriebely, and sev-
eral appearing so distressed that I entertained consid-
erable fears of their being able to reach that fountain.
I was accompanied by a small party of Sicomy's men,
who followed me in the hope of obtaining flesh. Hav-
ing proceeded about a mile, I missed my greyhound
•' Flam," which had been doubtless stolen by Sicomy's
orders, he being notorious for his predilection for that
variety of dog. I therefore at once dispatched a mes-
senger to the king, to say that I required him to find
my dog ; and shortly after this men overtook me, bear-
ing a kaross which they said the king had sent to pur-
chase one of my dogs. I replied that they had already
taken the dog, but that I would not have the kaross
They then departed, and I continued my march. Aft

286 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

er trekking about six miles we reached a deep gravel,
hole beside a mass of red granite rock, at the bottom
of which there was about a bucketful of spring water;
and here was the fresh spoor of a huge bull elephant,
which had scooped out large portions of the gravel with
his trunk on the preceding evening, but on turning
about he had entirely undone what he had accomplish-
ed by trampling it down- again into the well with his
huge feet.

On inspecting the spot I fancied that by digging we
might obtain a little water for the unfortunate cattle,
which at this moment was an object of the utmost im-
portance, the fountain of Corriebely being still very
distant. I accordingly set to work hard with all my
followers, assisted by the Bechuanas ; and having re-
moved an immense quantity of the gravel, I had the
satisfaction to discover a small spring of excellent wa-
ter, which issued from beneath the granite rock, and
ran as fast as we could catch it in our pails. I then
placed my large flesh-pot near the pit, and ordering the
men to bring up the cattle in small detachments, we
bailed out the water as fast as they could drink it, the
buckets being handed along by a line of men extending
up the gravel bank to the cattle, and thus, in a short
time, every one of them obtained a sufficiency. This
opportune supply of water was to me invaluable, my
poor dogs having also been much distressed, and requir-
ing water no less than the cattle.

With renewed spirits we continued our journey, and
at sundown we halted about half way to Corriebely.
On the march two of the oxen evinced distress, and we
were obliged to outspan them and allow them to follow
slowly with the loose cattle. About 10 o'clock on the
following morning I reached Corriebely, and was most

SEARCH FOR ELEPHANTS. 287

thankful to have succeeded in bringing all my wretch-
ed cattle alive to a fountain where they could drink
their fill. While breakfasting, three of Sicomy's men
approached, leading my greyhound Flam ; they said
that they were sent by Sicomy, who, on hearing that
she was missing, had at once issued orders for her
recovery.

In the afternoon we inspanhed, and marched to the
scene of the fall of my first elephant, where we halted
for the night. On reaching Massouey I commenced ex-
amining the elephants' foot-paths on the side on which
were my strongest hopes. I had almost made the cir-
cuit of the fountain, and hope had died within me,
when, lo ! broad and long, and fresh as fresh could be,
the enormous spoor of two mighty bull elephants which
had drunk there during the night. This was glorious !
I had great faith in the spooring powers of the Ba-
mangwato men, and I felt certain that at length the
day had arrived on which I was to kill my first bull
elephant. The Bechuanas at once took up the spoor,
and went ahead in a masterly manner, and with buoy-
ant spirits I followed in their steps. The spoor led
about due west, a direction in which I had not yet
been. Having followed it for many miles through this
desert country, we reached a district where the bushes,
to whose berries Knop-kop was so partial, grew in great
abundance; and here the elephants had commenced to
feed upon their roots, plowing up the sand extensively
with their tusks. We now entered upon ground much
frequented by elephants, their traces, of various dates,
extending on all sides, crossmg and recrossing one an-
other in every direction ; and by this means we event-
ually lost the spoor. After a fruitless search of several
hours, and many vain endeavors to retrieve the day by

288 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

trying back on the spoor and making wide casts to
the right and left, I was completely beaten, and com-
pelled to drop it, the Bechuanas sitting down and sulk-
ily refusing to proceed further. We now bent our
steps homeward. We had not ridden many miles
when we observed ft herd of fifteen camelopards brows-
ing quietly in an open glade of the forest. After a very
severe chase, in the course of which they stretched out;
into a magnificent widely-extended front, keeping their
line with a regularity worthy of a troop of dragoons,
I succeeded in separating a fine bull, upward of eight-
een feet in height, from the rest of the herd, and
brought him to the ground within a short distance of
the camp. The Bechuanas expressed themselves de-
lighted at my success. They kindled a fire and slept
beside the carcass, which they very soon reduced to bil-
tongue and marrow-bones.

On the morning of the 8th I walked to the fountain
and examined all the elephants' foot-paths, but there
was no fresh spoor. Having breakfasted, I rode for a
conical hill, distant from the wagons about five miles
in a northerly direction, from whose summit I fancied
that elephants might be seen. It was a charming cool
day, with a fine bracing wind, the sky beautifully over-
cast with clouds. I rode along, holding the elephants'
foot-paths. The marks of their strength were visible
in every grove, and all the large trees in the vicinity
of the muddy vleys, which at this season were dry,
were plastered with sun-baked mud to a height of
twelve feet from the ground. On reaching the base
of the conical hill I sccurea my horse to a tree, and as-
cended to its summit, from which I carefully examined
the distant forest landscape with my spy-glass, but
sought in vain for elephants.

ROAN ANTELOPES 289

In the evening I took my heavy single-barreled rifle
and sauntered toward the fountain A. large herd of
blue wildebeests were slowly advancing up the vley to
drink. I accordingly took up a position behind a low
bush near which they must pass, and lay flat on the
ground, waiting their approach. Presently I raised
my head to see how they were coming on, when I per-
ceived a pair of the rare and beautiful roan antelope
or bastard gemsbok warily approaching the fountain.
These came up, and were passing within a hundred
and twenty yards of me, when^ selecting the buck, I
let fly, and missed. The whole herd of wildebeests
now wheeled to the right-about, and thundered down
the vley, enveloped in a cloud of dust ; but the two
roan antelopes, which had probably never before heard
the report of a gun, stood looking about them, while I
hastily loaded, lying flat on my side. This being ac-
complished, I again let fly, and the old buck dropped
to the shot; the ball had entered his shoulder, and he
lay kicking and roaring until I had almost reloaded,
when he regained his feet and made ofl" after his com-
rade. At this moment "Ai'gyll" and "Bonteberg,"
two right good dogs, came up, having heard the shots,
and, perceiving the bastard gemboks, they gave chase.
To my surprise, the wounded buck, instead of turning
to bay, now set off" at a rapid pace. He had not gone
far, however, when he turned, and stood at bay for about
a minute. Two or three more of the dogs heard their
comrades barking, and came up to the buck, which
then broke bay and made ofl" through the bushes, and
in another moment all was still. It was now almost
dark, and I followed in the direction which the buck
had held, when suddenly I heard a rushing noise, and
in another instant the wounded buck met me face to

Vol. I.— N

290 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

face, closely pursued by five of the dogs. He was mak«
ing for the water, where he would have bayed, but I
unkickily turned him. Owing to light rain which was
falling at the moment, I had unfortunately slipped my
rifle into a water-proof holster, which prevented my
firing, and the buck held close past the wagons, where
more dogs joined in the chase.

On reaching cam.p I inquired of the men if they had
seen the buck, and they answered Yes, but that he was
not wounded. This I fancied must be the case, and
that the dogs had followed the fresh buck ; and as two
of them made their appearance, I thought that the af-
fair was at an end. In the mean time, however, Klein-
boy had seen the chase, and, hastily bridling a horse,
had followed. He now rode breathless to the wagons,
and reported that the buck was at bay beyond a low
ridge within half a mile of camp, and that he was kill-
ing the dogs right and left. Seizing my rifle, I mount-
ed a horse and followed after Kleinboy in the dark.
Presently I heard the music of my pack, and on com-
ing up I found the bastard gemsbok lying beside a bush,
with the dogs barking round him. Three dogs that had
followed me from camp, on seeing the buck lying, rush-
ed in upon him, when he struck furiously right and left,
and killed ons dead on the spot, severely wounding the
other behind the shoulder ; these were Vitfoot and Ar-
gyll, two of my best dogs. Again he struck right and
left, and knocked over Wolf and Flam with amazing
violence, severely injuring their stomachs. He had
killed Bles, my stoutest and fiercest dog, before I came
up, the horn having entered his heart. It was a long
tiihe before I could fire, for the night was dark, and
the buck lay on the ground, with the surviving dogs
Rtill pressing close around him. At length he stood up,

RETURN TO SICOMy's CAMP. 291

when I shot him dead with a single shot. He proved
to be the wounded buck, having received my first shot
in the shoulder. This was a first-rate specimen of the
roan antelope, and carried a pair of superb cimeter-
shaped horns, which were long and fairly set, and beau-
tifully knotted. Before leaving Massouey two more
noble giraffes fell before my rifle, also several fat elands
and other varieties of game.

After remaining in the neighborhood of the fountain
for several days, and finding that it was entirely de-
serted by the elephants, I determined to retrace my
steps and seek for them beyond Bamangwato, and on
the 18th we again came to the camp of Sicomy upon
the Rocky Mountains. I found the king in a kraal
which I had not hitherto visited. He was seated be-
neath a low shady tree, with a few friends and some
of his wives. A number of splendid koodoos' skulls
and horns lay rotting about the kraal, among which
were several pairs exceeding any I had yet beheld.
Casting my eyes to the southeast, I obtained a very
distant view of the country in that direction. From
the base of the mountain on which I stood stretched a
dead-level parlc through a bold opening in the mount-
ains. This park was regularly ornamented with groves
and forest-trees, and extended without the slightest
break or change as far as I could see. The scene ex-
actly resembled the ocean when viewed from the sum-
mit of some bold mountain standing near its shore.
Having partaken of the king's beer, I descended to my
wagons, when we continued our march along the afore-
said valley. I was accompanied by Sicomy's brother ;
and on looking behind me as we proceeded, I beiield
long strings of the natives following in our wake, and
small detached parties kept pouring down from the

292 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

rocks and glens on every side, until my suite exceeded
full two hundred men.

We held a northerly course, and on the second day
we reached Letlochee, a strong perpetual fountain, sit-
uated in an abrupt and rocky ravine. This ravine lay
in a range of low rocky hills, which were bounded on
the north and west by a wide and gently-sloping basin
or hollow, diversified with extensive groves and open
glades. This hollow extended to a breadth of from six
to eight miles, and was much frequented by elands and
giraffes, and beyond it stretched the boundless extent
of the sandy Kalahari desert. Here I daily enjoyed
excellent sport with these two varieties of game ; but,
though elephants occasionally visited the water, and
we followed on their tracks to an amazing distance, wo
always failed to obtain a view of them.

On the forenoon of the 23d a native came and in-
formed me that he had discovered a white rhinoceros
lying asleep in thick cover to the south. I accordingly
accompanied him to the spot, and commenced stalking
in upon the vast muchocho. He was lying asleep be-
neath a shady tree, and his appearance reminded me
of an enormous hog, which in shape he slightly resem-
bles. He kept constantly flapping his ears, which they
invariably do when sleeping. Before I could reach the
proper distance to fire, several " rhinoceros birds," by
which he was attended, warned him of his impending
danger by sticking their bills into his ear, and uttering
their harsh, grating cry. Thus aroused, he suddenly
sprang to his feet and crashed away through the jun-
gle at a rapid trot, and I saw no more of him.*

* These rhinoceros birds are constant attendants upon the hippopota-
mus and the four varieties of rhinoceros, their object being to feed upon
the ticks and other parasitic insects that swarm upon these animals.
They are of a gi-ayish color, and are nearly as large as a common thrush 5

THE RHINOCEROS BIRD. 293

In the evening one of the parties sent out to seek for
the spoor of elephants returned to camp, stating that a
small tribe of Baivalahari, who resided in a range of
mountains to the east, reported these beasts to frequent
the forests in the vicinity of their abode, and Mutchu-
isiio, Sicomy's uncle, who attended me while hunting
his country, accordingly requested me to hold myself
in readiness to accompany him in quest of the elephants
at an early hour next day. It was customary with me
to console myself, when hope had almost died under a
long-continued run of bad luck, by saying to myself
that " Patience will have her perfect work ;" thus mak-
ing up my mind that a man who is a good stalker and
a fair rifle-shot must eventually obtain by perseverance
whatever game he seeks to kill. But in the present
instance things looked so bad that I had begun to think
it not improbable that I might be compelled to leave

their voice is very similar to that of the mistletoe thrush. Many a time
have these ever-watchful birds disappointed me iu my stalli, aud tempt-
ed me to invoke an anathema upon tlieir devoted heads. They are the
best friends the rhinoceros has, and rarely fail to awaken him even in
his soundest nap. " Chukuroo" perfectly understands their warning,
and, springing to his feet, he genei'aUy first looks about him in every
direction, after which he invariably makes off. I have often hunted a
rhinoceros on horseback, which led me a chase of many miles, and re-
quired a number of shots before he fell, during which chase several of
these birds remained by the rhinoceros to the last. They reminded
me of mariners on the deck of some bark sailing on the ocean, for they
perched along his back and sides ; and as each of my bullets told on
the shoulder of the rhinoceros, they ascended about six feet into the
air, uttering their harsh cry of alarm, and then resumed their position.
It sometimes happened that the lower branches of trees, under which
the rhinoceros passed, swept tliem from their living deck, but they al-
ways recovered their formeu station ; they also adhere to the rhinoceros
daring the night. I have often shot these animals at midnight when
drinking at tiie fountains, and the birds, imagining they were asleep^
remained with them till morning, and on my ap[)roaching, before tak
ing flight, they exerted themselves to their utmost to awaken Chuku
roo from his deep sleep.

234 .ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

the Bamangwato country without again even seeing
what my heart so ardently desired, viz., an old bull ele-
phant free in his native forests, and day and night I
mourned my folly in losing the opportunity which I
had neglected on the 27th day of June.

But Patience ivill have her perfect work, and the
day had at last arrived which was to repay my steady
perseverance with complete success. At an early hour
on the 24th, upon the strength of the report brought to
us on the preceding evening, I took the field with Isaac
and Kleinboy as after-riders, accompanied by Mutchu-
isho and a hundred and fifty of his tribe. We held a
northeasterly course, and, having proceeded about five
miles through the forest, reached a fountain, where I
observed the spoor of a herd of cow elephants, two days
old. Here we made a short halt, and snufi' was briskly
circulated, while the leading men debated on- the course
we were to follow, and it was agreed that we should
hold for the Bakalahari kraal. Having continued our
course for several miles, we rounded the northern ex-
tremity of a range of rocky mountains which rose
abruptly in the forest and stretched away to the south
of east in a long-continued chain. Here we were met
by men whom Mutchuisho had dispatched before day-
break, who said that, the Bakalahari women had that
morning seen elephants. This was joyous news. My
hopes were high, and I at once felt certain that the hour
of triumph was at hand. But disappointment was still
in store for me. We all sat down on the grass, while
men were dispatched to bring the Bakalahari, and when
these came we ascertained that it was only spoor and
not elephants they had seen. We held on for an in
spection of it ; and here I was further to be disappoint-
ed, the spoor proving to be two days old.

SEARCH FOR ELEPHAMTS. 295

The country now before me was a vast level forest,
extending to the north and east for about twenty miles
without a break. At that distance, however, the land-
scape was shut in by blue mountain ranges of consid-
erable height, and two bold conical mountains standing
close together rose conspicuous above the rest. These
mountains the Bamangwato men informed me were
their ancient habitation, and that of their forefathers,
but the cruel Matabili had driven them from thence to
the rocky mountains which they now occupy. We
continued our course in an easterly direction, and twice
crossed the gravelly bed of a periodical river, in which
were several small springs of excellent water. These
springs had been exposed by elephants, which had
cleared away the gravel with their trunks. Around
these springs the spoor of rhinoceros was abundant.
After proceeding several miles through a dry and bar-
ren tract, where wait-a-bit thorns prevailed, we entered
upon more interesting ground. The forest was adorned
with very picturesque old trees of various sorts and
sizes, which stood singly and in shady groups, while the
main body of the forest consisted of a variety of trees
of other sorts, averaging the height of a giraffe. The
elephants had left abundant traces of their presence, but
all the marks were old. Fresh spoor of giraffe was im-
printed on the ground on every side, and we presently
saw a large herd of these, standing scattered through
the forest to our left. They were glorious fellows, but
I was now in pursuit of nobler game : the natives were
leading me to some distant fountain, where tliey ex-
pected we should discover spoor.

On we sped through the depths of the forest, our
view being confined to about fifty yards on every side.
Presently emerging upon a small open glade, I observed

296 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

a herd of brindlo4 gnoos and two or three troops of
pallahs ; and soon after, a second herd of about fifteen
catnelopards stood browsing before us, and, getting our
wind, dashed away to our lef . We had proceeded about
two miles further, and it was now within two hours of
sunset, when, lo ! a thorny tree, newly smashed by an
elephant. Some of the natives attentively examined
the leaves of the broken branches to ascertain exactly
when he had been there, while some for the same pur-
pose overhauled the spoor. It was the spoor of a first-
rate bull : he had fed there that morning at the dawn
of day. IThe ground was hard and bad for spooring,
but the natives evinced great skill, and, following it for
a short distance, we came to ground where a troop of
bull elephants had pastured not many hours before.
Here the thorny trees on every side were demolished
by them, and huge branches and entire trees were rent
and uprooted, and lay scattered across our path, having
been carried several yards in the trunks of the elephants
before they stood to eat the leaves : the ground also
was here and there plowed up by their tusks in quest
of roots ; and in these places the enormous fresh spoor
— that thrilling sight to a hunter's eye — was beauti-
fully visible.

All this was extremely interesting and gratifying;
but I had been so often disappointed, and it was now
so very near sunset, that I entertained but faint hopes
of finding them that evening. Mutchuisho was very
anxious that I should see the elephants ; he had divest-
ed himself of his kaross, and, carrying one of the mus-
kets which Sicomy had bought from me, he led the
spooring party, consisting of about fifteen cunning old
hands The great body of the men he had ordered to
sit down and remain quiet until the attack commenced

DISCOVER A HERD OF BULL ELEPHANTS. 297

Having followed the spoor for a short distance, old
JMutchuisho became extremely excited, and told me
that yvG \Yere close to the elephants. A few minutes
after several of the spoorers affirmed that they had
heard the elephants break a tree in advance ; they dif-
fered, however, about the direction, some saying it was
in front, and others that it was away to our left. Two
or three men quickly ascended tiie tallest trees that
stood near us, but they could not see the elephants.
Mutchuisho then extended men to the right and left,
while we continued on the spoor.

In a few minutes one of those who had gone off to
our left came running breathless to say that he had
seen the mighty game. I halted for a minute, and in-
structed Isaac, who carried the big Dutch rifle, to act
independently of me, while Kleinboy was to assist me
in the chase ; but, as usual, when the row began, my
followers thought only of number one. I bared my
arms to the shoulder, and, having imbibed a draught
of aqua pura from the calabash of one of the spoorers,
I grasped my trusty two-grooved rifle, and told my
guide to go ahead. We proceeded silently as might be
for a few hundred yards, following the guide, when he
suddenly pointed, exclaiming, " Klow I" and before us
stood a herd of mighty bull elephants, packed together
beneath a shady grove about a hundred and fifty yards
in advance. I rode slowly toward them, and, as soon
as they observed me, they made a loud rumbling noise,
and, tossing their trunks, wheeled right about and made
off in one direction, crashing through the forest and
leaving a cloud of dust behind them. I was accom-
panied by a detachment of my dogs, who assisted me
in the pursuit.

The distance I had come, and the difficulties I had
N2

298 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

undergone, to behold these elephants, rose fresh before
me. I determined that on this occasion at least I would
do my duty, and, dashing my spurs into " Sunday's"
ribs, I was very soon much too close in their rear for
safety. The elephants now made an inclination to my
left, whereby I obtained a good view of the ivory. Tho
herd consisted of six bulls ; four of them were full-
grown, first-rate elephants ; the other two were fine
fellows, but had not yet arrived at perfect stature. Of
the four old fellows, two had much finer tusks than the
rest, and for a few seconds I was undecided which of
these two I would follow; when, suddenly, the one
which I fancied had the stoutest tusks broke from his
comrades, and I at once felt convinced that he was the
patriarch of the herd, and followed him accordingly.
Cantering alongside, I was about to fire, when he in-
stantly turned, and, uttering a trumpet so strong and
shrill that the earth seemed to vibrate beneath my feet,
he charged furiously after me for several hundreds yards
in a direct lino, not altering his course in the slightest
degree for the trees of the forest, which he snapped and
overthrew like reeds in his headlong career.

When he pulled up in his charge, I likewise halted;
and as he slowly turned to retreat, I let fly at his shoul-
der, "Sunday" capering and prancing, and giving me
nuich trouble. On receiving the ball the elephant shrug-
ged his shoulder, and made off at a free majestic walk.
This shot brought several of the dogs to my assistance
which had been following the other elephants, and on
their coming up and barking another headlong charge
was the result, accompanied by the never-failing trum-
pet as before. In his charge he passed close to me,
when I saluted hitn with a second bullet in the shoul-
der, of which he did not take the slightest notice, I

THE CONFLICT. 299

now determined not to fire again until I could make a
steady shut; but, although the elephant turned repeat-
edly, " Sunday" invariably disappointed me, capering
so that it was impossible to lire. At length, exaspera-
ted, I became recJdess of the danger, and, springing
from the saddle, approached the elephant under cover
of a tree, and gave him a bullet in the side of the head,
when, trumpeting so shrilly that the forest trembled,
he charged among the dogs, from whom he seemed to
fancy that the blow had come ; after which he took up
a position in a grove of thorns, with his head toward
me. I walked up very near, and, as- he was in the act
of charging (being in those days under wrong impres-
sions as to the impracticability of bringing down an ele-
phant with a shot in the forehead), stood coolly in his
path until he was within fifteen paces of me, and let
drive at the hollow of his forehead, in the vain expecta-
tion that by so doing I should end his career. The shot
only served to increase his fury — an effect which, I had
remarked, shots in the head invariably produced ; and,
continuing his charge with incredible quickness and
impetuosity, he all but terminated my elephant-hunt-
ing forever. A large party of the Bechuanas who had
come up yelled out simultaneously, imagining I was
killed, for the elephant was at one moment almost on
the top of me : I, however, escaped by my activity, and
by dodging round the bushy trees. As the elephant
"was charging, an enormous thorn ran deep into the sole
of my foot, the old Badenoch brogues, which I that day
sported, being worn through ; and this caused me se-
vere pain, laming me throughout the rest of the conflict.
The elephant held on through the forest at a sweep-
ing pace ; but he was hardly out of sight when I was
loaded and in the saddle, and soon once more alongside.

300 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

About this time I heard Isaac blazing away at another
bull; but when the elephant charged, his cowardly
heart failed him, and he very soon made his appear-
ance at a safe distance in my rear. My elephant kept
crashing along at a steady pace, with blood streaming
from his wounds; the dogs, which were knocked up
with fatigue and thirst, no longer barked around him,
but had dropped astern. It was long before I again
fired, for I was afraid to dismount, and "Sunday" was
extremely troublesome. At length I fired sharp right
and left from the saddle : he got both balls behind the
shoulder, and made a long charge after me, rumbling
and trumpeting as before. The whole body of the Ba-
mangwato men had now come up, and were following
a short distance behind me. Among these was MoU-
yeon, who volunteered to help ; and being a very swift
and active fellow, he rendered me important service by
holding my fidgety horse's head while I fired and load-
ed. I then fired six broadsides from the saddle, the
elephant charging almost every time, and pursuing us
back to the main body in our rear, who fled in all di-
rections as he approached.

The sun had now sunk behind the tops of the trees :
it would very soon be dark, and the elephant did not
seem much distressed, notwithstanding all he had re-
ceived. I recollected that my time was short, and
therefore at once resolved to fire no more from the sad-
dle, but to go close up to him and fire on foot. Riding
up to him, I dismounted and, approaching very near, I
gave it him right and left in the side of the head, upon
which he made a long and determined charge after me;
but I was now very reckless of his charges, for I saw
that he could not overtake me, and in a twinkling I
vvas loaded, and, again approaching, fired sharp right

THE CONQUEST. 3€1

and left behind his shoulder. Again he charged with
a terrific trumpet, which sent "Sunday" flying through
the forest. This was his last charge. The wounds
which he had received began to tell on his constitution,
and he now stood at bay beside a thorny tree, with the
dogs barking around him. These, refreshed by the
evening breeze, and perceiving that it was nearly over
with the elephant, had once more come to my assist-
ance. Having loaded, I drew near and fired right and
left at his forehead. On receiving these shots, instead
of charging, he tossed his trunk up and down, and by
various sounds and motions, most gratifying to the hun-
gry natives, evinced that his demise was near. Again
I loaded, and fired my last shot behind his shoulder :
on receiving it, he turned round the bushy tree beside
which he stood, and I ran round to give him the other
barrel, but the mighty old monarch of the forest needed
no more ; before I could clear the bushy tree he fell
heavily on his side, and his spirit had fled. My feel-
ings at this moment can only be understood by a few
brother Nimrods who have had the good fortune to en-
joy a similar encounter. I never felt so gratified on
any former occasion as I did then.

By this time all the natives had come up; they were
in the highest spirits, and flocked around the elephant,
laughing and talking at a rapid pace. I climbed on to
him, and sat enthroned upon his side, which w^as as high
as my eyes when standing on the ground. In a few
minutes night set in, when the natives, having illu-
minated the jungle with a score of fires, and formed a
semicircle of bushes to windward, lay down to rest
without partaking of a morsel of food. JNIutchuisho
would not allow a man to put an assagai into the ele-
phant until the morrow, and placed two relays of sen-

OU.i ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

trie« x) keep ^yatch on either side of him. My dinner
consisted of a piece of Ilcsh from the temple of the ele-
phant, which I broiled on the hot embers. In the con-
flict I had lost my shirt, which was reduced to strcam-
trs by the wait-a-bit thorns, and all the clothing that
.remained was a pair of buclcskin knee-breeches.

The night was very cold, it being now the dead of
the African winter. Having collected dry grass, I
spread it beside my fire, and lay down for the night
with no other covering than an old sheep-skin which I
had used for a saddle-cloth. Shortly after T had drop-
ped asleep. Mutch uisho, commiserating my bare condi-
tion, spread an old jackal kaross over me. This kaross,
as all Beehuana garments are, was thickly tenanted
by small transparent insects, usually denominated lice.
These virulent creatures, probably finding my skin
more tender than that of the owner of the kaross, seem-
ed resolved to enjoy a banquet while they could ; and
presently I awolce with my whole body so poisoned and
inflamed that I felt as if attacked with a severe fever.
All further rest that night was at an end. I returned
the kaross to Mutchuisho, with grateful acknowledg-
ments for his polite intentions; and piling dry wood on
the fire, which emitted a light as bright as day, I aroused
the slumbering Kleinboy to assist me in turning my
buckskins outside in, when an animating " chasse"
commenced, which terminated in the capture of about
fourscore of my white-currant colored visitors. I then
lit another fire opposite to the first, and spent the re-
mainder of the night squatted between the two, thus
imbibing caloric before and behind.

As the sun rose on the morning of the 25th, Mut-
chuisho gave the word to cut up the elephant, when a
scene of blood, noise, and turmoil ensued which I'hiHc^

CUTTING UP THE ELEPHANT. 303

all description. Every native there, divested of ins
kaross and armed with an assagai, rustied to the on-
slaught ; and in less than two hours every inch of the
elephant was gone, and carried by the different parties
to their respective temporary locations, which they had
chosen beneath each convenient tree that grew around.

The manner in which the elephant is cut up is as
follows : The rough outer skin is first removed, in large
sheets, from the side which lies uppermost. Several
coats of an under skin are then met w^th. This skin
is of a tough and pliant nature, and is used by the na-
tives for making water-bags, in which they convey sup-
plies of water from, the nearest vley or fountain (which
is often ten miles distant) to the elephant. They re-
move this inner skin with caution, taking care not to
cut it with the assagai ; and it is formed into water-
bags by gathering the corners and edges, and transfix-
ing the whole on a pointed wand. The flesh is then
removed in enormous sheets from the ribs, wdien the
hatchets come into play, wdth which they chop through,
and remove individually, each colossal rib. The bow-
els are thus laid bare ; and in the removal of these the
leading men take a lively interest and active part, for
it is throughout and around the bowels that the fat of
the elephant is mainly found.

There are few things w^hich a Bechuana prizes so
highly as fat of any description ; they will go an amaz-
ing distance for a small portion. of it. They use it
principally in cooking their sun-dried biltongue, and
they also eat it with their corn. The fat of the ele-
ptiant lies in extensive layers and sheets in his inside,
and the quantity which is obtained from a full-grown
bull, in high condition, is very great. Befoie it can
be obtained, the greater part of the bowels must be re-

304 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

moved. To accomplish this, several men eventually
enter the immense cavity of his inside, where they
continue mining away with their assagais, and hand-
ing the fat to their comrades outside until all is bare.
While this is transpiring with the sides and bowels,
other parties are equally active in removing the skin
and flesh from the remaining parts of the carcass. Tho
natives have a horrid practice on these occasions of be-
smearing their bodies, from the crown of the head to the
sole of the foot, with the black and clotted gore ; and
in this anointing they assist one another, each man tak-
ing up the fill in both his hands, and spreading it over
the back and shoulders of his friend. Throughout the
entire proceeding an incessant and deafening clamor of
many voices and confused sounds is maintained, and
violent jostling and wrestling are practiced by every
man, elbowing the breasts and countenances of his fel-
lows, all slippery with gore, as he endeavors to force
his way to the venison through the dense intervening
ranks, while the sharp and ready assagai gleams in
every hand. The angry voices and gory appearances
of these naked savages, combined with their excited
and frantic gestures and glistening arms, presented an
effect so wild and striking, that when I first beheld the
scene 1 contemplated it in the momentary expectation
of beholding one half of the gathering turn their weap-
ons against the other.

The trunk and feet are considered a delicacy, and a
detachment are employed on these. The four feet are
amputated at the fetlock joint, and the trunk, which at
the base is about two feet in thickness, is cut into con-
venient lengths. Trunk and feet are then baked, pre-
paratory to their removal to head-quarters. The man-
ner in which this is done is as follows : A party, pro-

BAKING elephant's FLESH. 305

vided with sharp-pointed sticks, dig a hole in the ground
for each foot and a portion of the trunk. These holes
are about two feet deep, and a yard in width; the ex-
cavated earth is embanked around the margin of the
hole. This work being completed, they next collect an
immense quantity of dry bi-anches and trunks of trees,
of which there is always a profusion scattered around,
having been broken by the elephants in former years.
These they pile above the holes to the height of eight
or nine feet, and then set fire to the heap. When these
strong fires have burned down, and the whole of the
wood is reduced to ashes, the holes and the surround-
ing earth are heated in a high degree. Ten or twelve
men then stand round the pit, and rake out the ashes
with a pole about sixteen feet in length, having a hook
at the end. They relieve one another in quick succes-
sion, each man running in and raking the ashes for a
few seconds, and then pitching the pole to his comrade
and retreating, since the heat is so intense that it is
scarcely to be endured. When all the ashes are thus
raked out beyond the surrounding bank of earth, each
elephant's foot and portion of the trunk is lifted by two
athletic men, standing side by side, who place it on
their shoulders, and, approaching the pit together, they
heave it into it. The long pole is now again resumed,
and with it they shove in the heated bank of earth upon
the foot, shoving and raking until it is completely bur-
ied in the earth. The hot embers, of which there is
always a great supply, are then raked into a heap above
the foot, and another bonfire is kindled over each, which
is allowed to burn down and die a natural death, by
which time the enormous foot or trunk will be found
to be equally baked throughout its inmost parts. When
the foot is supposed to be ready, it is taken out of the

306 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ground with pointed sticks, and is first well beaten,
and then scraped with an assagai, whereby adhering
particles of sand are got rid of. The outside is then
pared off, and it is transfixed with a sharp stake for
facility of carriage.

The feet, thus cooked, are excellent, as is also the
trunk, which very much resembles buff^alo's tongue.
The reason why such large fires are requisite is owing
to tl e mass of the flesh that must be baked. In rak-
ing tne sand on the foot, the natives are careful not to
rake the red-hot embers in with it, which would burn
and destroy the meat; whereas the sand or earth pro-
tects it, imparting an even and steady heat. When
the natives have cut up the elephant, and removed the
large masses of flesh, &c., to their respective temporary
kraals around, they sit down for a little to rest and
draw their breath, and for a short time smoking and
snuffing are indulged in.

The Bechuana pipe is of a very primitive description,
differing from any I had ever seen. When they wish
to smoke they moisten a spot of earth, not being par-
ticular whence they obtain the water. Into this earth
they insert a green twig, bent into a semicircle, whoso
bend is below the said earth, and both ends protruding.
They then knead the moist earth down with their
knuckles on the twig, which they work backward and
forward until a hole is established, when the twig is
withdrawn, and one end of the aperture is enlarged with
the fingers, so as to form a bowl to contain the tobacco.
The pipe is thus finished and ready for immediate use,
when tobacco and fire are introduced, and the smoker
drops on his knees, and, resting on the palms of his
hands, he brings his lips in contact with the mud at
the small end of the hole, and thus inhales the grateful

RESULTS OF THE HUNT. 307

fumes. Large volumes of smoke are emitted through
the nostrils, while a copious flow of tears from the eyes
of the smoker evinces the pleasure he enjoys. One of
these pipes will serve a large party, who replenish the
bowl and relieve one another in succession.

The natives, having drawn their breath, once more
devote their attention to the flesh, which they next re-
duce to biltongue, cutting every morsel into thin strips
from six to twenty feet in length. These strips are of
the breadth and thickness of a man's two fingers. When
all is reduced to biltongue, they sally forth with their
tomahawks, and cut down a number of poles of two
sorts, for uprights and cross-poles. The uprights are
eight feet long, and forked at one end. They place
them upright in the ground aroa-nd their respective
trees, laying the cross-poles resting on the forks, and
these are adorned with endless garlands of the raw
meat, which is permitted to hang in the sun for two or
three days, when it will have lost much of its weight,
and be stiff" and easy to be carried. They then remove
the biltongue from the poles, and, folding it together,
they form it into bundles, which are strongly lashed
and secured v/ith long strips of the tough inner bark
of thorny mimosas. Their work in the forest is now
completed, and, each man placing one bundle on his
head, and slinging several others across his shoulders,
returns to his wife and family at head-quarters.

The appearance which the flesh of a single elephant
exhibits when reduced to strips and suspended from the
poles is truly, surprising, the forest far around display-
ing a succession of ruby festoons, and reminding one of
a vineyard laden with its clustering fruits. When the
skull of my elephant was ready for the ax, Mutchuisho
caused a party to hew out for me the tusks — a work of

308 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

great labor, and needing considerable skill. In the pies-
ent instance the work was clumsily executed, the na-
tive hacking and injuring the ivory in removing the
bone with their little tomahawks. In consequence of
this, I invariably afterward performed the task myself,
using superior American hatchets, which I had provid-
ed expressly for the purpose. When the tusks had been
extracted, I saddled up and started for the camp, ac-
companied by my after-riders and a party of the natives
bearing the ivory, with a supply of baked foot and trunk
and a portion of the flesh. The natives had appropri-
ated all the rest, and when I left them they were quar-
reling over the remnant of the skull, whose marrowy
bones were in high demand. They fought for every
chip as it flew from the ax, and chewed it raw. On
our way to camp we passed through the kraal of the
Bakalahari, situated in the mountain range. In the
valleys they had formed considerable gardens, in which
corn and water-melons were extensively grown. I was
right glad to reach my comfortable camp, and get a
bowd of coffee.

On the evening of the 26th men kept pouring into
camp heavily laden with the flesh of the elephant, a
large part of which was for Sicomy : they_ halted with
me for the night, and resumed their march in the
morning.

TREACHERY OF ISAAC 300

CHAPTER XVI.

Elephant Spooring with the Natives — The Mystic Dice — Hunt in a
Wait-a-bit Thoin Cover — Romantic Gorge in the Mountains — Sabie
— Ancient Elephant Palh — Ludicrous Native Signal — A noble Bull
Elephant slain — Isaac, my Interpreter, dismissed — A Lioness bagged
at one Sliot — Diunkenness and Disorder in Camp — My Manner of
taking the Field after the larger Game — Sicomy's Followers desert
me.

On the 27th of July I resolved to move my wagons
further to the east, and informed the wagon-drivers of my
intentions: they, however, raised many objections, and
all but gave me a direct refusal. As I was not aware
of the position of the waters, and knowing well that
Isaac would not assist me in discovering them, I deem-
ed it prudent first to make an excursion to the east on
horseback. I accordingly stowed some ammunition and
a washing-rod in my old game-bag (to the inside of
which, by-the-by, adhered a goodly coating of the scales
of grilse and salmon, along with sundry speckled and
blood-stained feathers of the grouse and partridge), and
having made bread and ground coffee sufficient for three
days' consumption, I ordered two of my men to be ready
to accompany me next morning. My interpreter's
countenance never lacked a scowl ; and, instead of for-
warding my interests, he actively employed his ener-
gies in sowing dissension between me and the natives,
and disseminating mutiny among my Hottentots. I
discovered that all along he had deceived me, and care-
fully concealed the direction where elephants most
abounded, and I began to think that, in justice to my*

olO ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

self, it was high time that he should be ignominiousiy
dismissed the service.

On the 28th, as I was breakfasting, natives arrived
and reported fresh spoor within a mile of camp. I there-
fore resolved to defer for the present the trip to the east-
ward on which I had determined ; but it so happened
that the spoor which was reported led me in that direc-
tion, and was the means of introducing me to a succes-
sion of fine hunting districts, throughout which ele-
phant and rhinoceros were abundant. Every thing be-
ing ready, I proceeded to take up the spoor, accompani-
ed by after-riders and about a hundred of the Baman-
gwato men, fresh parties having joined me : it was the
spoor of a small troop of cow elephants. Mutchuisho
and the spooring party took it up in a masterly man-
ner, and went along at a rapid pace all day, with
scarcely a check, until we found the elephants. The
spoor led us first through a gorge in the mountains,
which I mentioned as having rounded on the 24th ;
after which we followed it in an easterly course, skirt-
ing the base of the mountain chain. The country in-
creased in beauty as we advanced; and, having follow-
ed the spoor some hours, it led us into a new variet)''
of country, and, as I fancied, into a new climate. Here
large trees were abundant, and the grass and leaves
were much greener than in the country we had left
behind. We crossed the gravelly beds of two period-
ical rivers. In one of these I observed the recent spoor
of a heard of bull elephants deeply imprinted in the
sand. This day the wind, which had for weeks been
cold and blighting, blowing off the icebergs of the South-
ern Ocean, shifted to northeast, and breathed warm and
balmy upon us.

As we advanced the work of elephants became more

THE MYSTIC DICK. 31 1

and more apparent on the trees and in the earth, and
late in the afternoon we reached ground where a largtj
herd of cows had fed that morning. Here we had a
short check, when Mutchuisho rated the trackers for
their negligence; and, having dispatched parties to try
back upon the spoor, and extended others to make casts
on our right and left, he leisurely ensconced himself be-
neath a shady tree, and proceeded, along with several
of his cronies, to enjoy the luxury of taking snufF,
which important ceremony having been duly perform-
ed, they began with the utmost gravity to smooth a
portion of the ground before them, preparatory to cast-
ing the mystic dice which most of the Bechuanas carry
strung around their necks. These dice, which are of
sundry indescribable shapes, are formed of ivory, and
the Bechuanas invariably appeal to them before enter-
ing upon any project of importance, to ascertain the
probability of its ultimate success. Having unstrung
the dice, which are four in number, they rattle them
between their hands, and drop them on the ground,
when the long-headed old men carefully study the di-
rections of the points, and decide the merits of the case
accordingly.

In the present instance the dice spoke favorably, au-
guring the speedy capture of an elephant ; and one of
the trackers at this moment coming up, and stating
that his comrades had regained the spoor, we sprang to
our feet and again held on. We had proceeded about
half a mile when we suddenly beheld a herd of about
twelve old cow elephants, some of which were accom-
panied by little calves, feeding high on the side of the
rocky mountain, about five hundred yards to our right.
The intervening ground was a dense and almost im-
penetrable mass of wait-a-bit thorny bushes, averaging

312 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

twenty feet in height, every inch of which was to be
dreaded as the hooks upon a " kill«devil." On perceiv-
ing the elephants, we halted, and Mutchuisho dispatch-
ed two men to windward, in the hope of driving them
from the impracticable ground they occupied into the
level forest where we stood. The elephants, however,
were much too wide awake to leave their strong-hold
of wait-a-bit bushes. On getting the wind of the men
they tossed their trunks, and, wheeling about, held
along the mountain side at a rapid pace, until they
reached an impenetrable jungle of thorns, from which
all our efforts proved unavailing to dislodge them.

This jungle densely covered the sides and bottom of
a wide semicircular basin or hollow in the mountains;
it was throughout so dense that a man on foot could
scarcely penetrate it. When the elephants started I
rode hard after them, followed by my after-riders, and,
not understanding the intentions of the elephants, we
followed on through the mazes of the jungle in an ele-
phant path until we reached the center of the thicket,
when we suddenly found ourselves upon them. The
dogs then ran in barking, when a general trumpeting
took place, and a charging and crashing in all direc-
tions, and, owing to tlie extremely dangerous nature of
the ground, I was glad to beat a precipitate retreat.

Once more all was quiet ; my dogs were jaded w^ith
the sun, and would not fight. Fancying that the ele-
phants had gone ahead, and fearing to lose them, I again
pushed on, holding the foot-path as before, when crash
came a second charge of elephants at our very elbows,
accompanied by a trumpeting which caused our ears to
tingle. They charged upon us from opposite direc-
tions, and we were actually in the very middle of them.
They were extremely tierce, and, but for the dogs, not

A PERILOUS SITUATION. 31 ti

a man of us had escaped to tell the tale. Fortunately,
the dogs, which they seemed to think designed the cap-
ture of their calves, engrossed their whole attention ;
whereas, by reason of the color of the horses on which
we rode, they took us for gregarious creatures like them-
selves, and actually grazing our animals' haunches with
their legs, they left us scatheless and pursued the dogs.
I seldom remenlber a more startling or dangerous po
sition ; it was a decided case of " De'il tak the hin'-
most." Spurs and jamboks were energetically plied ;
there was no time to select a path. Placing my head
below my horse's neck and trusting to Providence, I
charged through the thickest of the thorns, and pres-
ently found myself out of the way of the elephants. 1
know nothing which so effectually teaches a hunter the
art of riding through "Vacht um bige," or "wait-a-
bit" jungle, in an artistical manner, as hearing the
trumpet of an enraged elephant, which is following about
a spear's length in his wake. After a few such lessons
he will have learned to bring his breast in contact with
the side of his horse's neck, his head being well under
it, whereby his prominent feature will be secured, and,
agitating his persuaders, he will dive through the most
impracticable " wait-a-bits" with apparently the facil-
ity with which an Eton boy takes a header into the
Thames at the Lion's Leap.

With very great difficulty, we got clear of the cover
and gained the level forest on the lower side. By thi
time the natives had lined the side of the mountain
above the cover, and were shouting and yeUing in the
hope of driving out the elephants ; but not a man would
venture in. Presently some of them came round to me,
and I proposed to go in on foot, but they would not hear
of it, saying that the elephants were extremely fierce

Vol. T— O

314 ADVKISTUKES IN SOUXn AFKlUn.

and would kill mc to a certainty. I then proposed that
all the natives should enter the jungle in a line, and
try to drive them out; but they said that no power
oould force the elephanis from their strong-hold until
night set in.

The elephants now shifted their ground a little, forc-
ing their way through the jungle to the higher side of
the basin. Leaving the horses in charge of a native, 1
went round to the line of men above. Here I command-
ed a fine view of the exasperated elephants, being high
above them, and distant about two hundred and fifty
yards, and I observed that they displayed considerable
cunning in their movements. Placing my rifle on a
forked branch, and giving it the proper elevation, I let
drive at the nearest cow, and wounded her severely.
The shot reverberated through the dale, and the dogs
once more ran into the midst of them, when a general
charge and trumpeting ensued, which was truly ter-
rific. They rushed after the dogs, following them up
to a great distance, crashing through and upsetting the
high, bushy wait-a-bits and other trees like grass. They
then turned and formed in two separate detachments,
standing thick together ; but two wicked old cows tha»
had calves stood far out from the others, with their
heads turned to us, ready to charge whatever might
approach. I saw that it was extremely dangerous to
attack them ; but the sun was now fast sinking behind
a shoulder of the mountains, so I resolved to defy all
chances and enter the cover. I first, however, fired two
shots at the elephants that formed the advanced pick-
ets ; both cows got it in the ribs, and, finding them-
selves wounded, retreated to the main body, where they
stood smashing the trees with rage, and, catching up
volumes of the red dust with their trunks, threw it ia

EXCITING HUN-r 315

clouds ahove their backs. Mutchuisho and I now de-
Dcended into the jungle, and crept stealthily along, list-
ening for the breathing of the elephants. Th<py had
moved to the lower siile, and were standing thick to-
getlier within one hundred yards of the outside. On
ascertaining their position, we emerged from the cover,
and followed along the outside until we were opposite
them. I then stalked in within twenty yards, and fired
at the side of the head of the elephant that stood next
to me ; and before the smoke had cleared, my back was
to them, and I was running for the outside of the cover
at my utmost speed. The elephants held their ground ;
so, having loaded, I again drew near, and fired sharp
right and left into another, and, turning my back, ran
for it once more. Re-entering the cover a third time,
1 was listening which way they had gone, when, cast-
ing my eyes to the left, a noble elephant lay dead be-
fore me. The ball had penetrated to her brain, and
she had dropped dead upon the spot.

A little after this an old cow came charging after tha
dogs, and took up a position in the jungle close beside
us. We heard her preparing for a second charge, when
the natives beat a precipitate retreat; but I very rashly
waited to receive her, and just as she cleared the cover
I let fly at her forehead. Regardless of my shot, she
came down upon me at a tremendous pace, shrilly
trumpeting. It was rather a near thing, for I was bur-
dened with my rifle and rhinoceros-horn loading-rod,
and my shooting-belt containing about forty rounds of
ammunition. I escaped her by my speed, and the in
stant she halted I faced about, and gave her the other
barrel behind the .shoulder.

Night now set in, and I saw no more of the ele-
phants. A number of them were wounded and must

816 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

have died ; I, however, felt satisfied with the one I had
secured. The natives made me more cautious than I
should otherwise have been, and, had we found them
at an earlier hour, I should probably have killed one
half the troop. Weary and hungry, we formed our
kraals and kindled fires; after which, having partaken
of the elephant, I lay down to sleep beside my fire.

On the 29th I sent Carollus to the wagons with in-
structions to bring all the horses and the Bushman,
with bread, coffee, and ammunition. In the forenoon
I ascended the neighboring mountain range to obtain a
view of the surrounding country. On clearing the first
ridge I looked down upon a bold and romantic gorge,
which here intersected the mountain chain, connecting
the forests on either side. Far below me, through the
bottom of the ravine, twined the gravelly bed of a peri-
odical river, which in the rainy season flows in an east-
erly direction. Though in all other parts this gravelly
channel was now dry, yet just at this spot, deep in the
bosom of the mountains, its bed was covered with de-
licious spring water to a depth of several inches ; and
here the elephants had excavated sundry holes, about
two feet deep, for the purpose of drinking. I descend-
ed to the water by an elephant path, and stood long
contemplating the interesting spot. The bed of the
river was deeply imprinted with the spoor of elephants,
buffaloes, and rhinoceros, of various dates. The gorge
was wide and open by the water, and its abrupt and
rocky sides were adorned with a profusion of trees and
shrubs. A little further down the gorge was more con-
fined, the river winding through huge perpendicular
walls of rock, that raised their giant forms on both sides
to a height of several hundred feet.

From the basis of these stupendous ramparts to the

ROMANTIC SCENERY. 317

margin of the river on either side was a sloping bank,
along which grew an avenue of picturesque acacias of
enormoQS bulk and lofty stature ; beneath these were
well-beaten paths of elephants, and the sides of the
trees were well polished to the usual distance from the
ground. Leaving the river, I ascended to the sum-
mits of loftier hills beyond, where I commanded a glori-
ous prospect of the endless gray forests which stretched
away as far as I could see over slightly undulating coun-
try, the faint blue outline of extensive mountain ranges
bounding the landscape to the east. Descending from
my lofty station, I discovered four bull buffaloes feeding
in the valley far beneath me ; I left them undisturbed,
and bent my steps toward the carcass of the elephant.

In the evening Carollus arrived, bringing the horses
and ammunition, and accompanied by a numerous body
of the natives. At an early hour on the 30th I started
with Mutchuisho and a numerous retinue to search for
elephants in an easterly direction, and we crossed the
gravelly bed of the River Mahalapia, about a mile be-
low the gorge I had visited on the preceding day. In
after years I renewed my acquaintance with the Maha-
lapia, on the banks of the fair Limpopo, into which it
empties itself several days' journey to the east.

This was one of the loveliest spots I had seen in
Southern Africa : a bold bend of the river was adorned
with groves of remarkably lofty and picturesque aca-
cias. Three trees in particular, of the same descrip-
tion, graced the spot, which in size and beauty surpass-
ed any I had hitherto met with, carrying their thick-
ness to a_n immense height from the ground, when they
divided into goodly branches, which stretched away in
beauty to the skies.

Here, in the bed of the river, we took up the spoor

318 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

of a huge bull elephant, and, having followed it a sh jrt
distance through the verdant forest, we started the old
fellow, but no man saw him. The great body of the
latives never would be quiet, and ever pressed upon
the spooring party, notwithstanding my remonstrances.
One native heard him, but said he thought it was a rhi-
noceros. In half a minute, however, we discovered our
mistake, and there ensued a general rush upon the
spoor, at a pace which nmst shortly have overtaken
him, for he had not started in great alarm. Whistling
to my dogs, they took up the scent and went ahead ;
but as I galloped after them, expecting every instant
to behold the elephant, whose spoor I now saw beneath
my horse's feet, an unlucky troop of camelopards dash-
ed across our path, and away went all the dogs, leaving
me in the lurch just as I was upon the elephant. The
trackers, however, soon came up, and we again held
briskly on, but had not proceeded far when we entered
upon ground so covered with fresh footmarks that the
trackers in their haste overran the spoor we followed,
and a long check was the result. Here, to add to my
annoyance, another large herd of camelopards came
cantering up the wind, and dashed away before us, to
spread further alarm. Old Mutchuisho now came up
in a state of intense excitement, his watery eyes fixed
upon the ground, and his tongue going like perpetual
motion. He blew up the trackers right and left, who
seemed to quail before his menacing^ aspect, and re-
doubled their energies in the doubtful pursuit. Pres-
ently one of these, loudly smacking his " nether end,"
intimated that he had hit off the proper spoor. This
peculiar signal, I remarked, was used by the Bechuanas
to warn one another on various occasions. In spoor-
ing game it was invariably practiced ; and when a line

A NOBLE BULL ELEPHANT BAGGED. 31J

of ruen were thridding the mazes of the forest, cacb
warntu tlie man behind him of any rough sticks, stones,
or thor.T.s wliich lay across the path, by the same ele.
gant an J friendly gesture.

We re-^nmed the spoor at a rapid pacr-, with a wide-
ly-extended front, and ])resently on my left I heard the
joyons signal of the presence, " Kiow ;" and, canterinq
in that direction, I came full in sight of an enormoug
bull elephant, marching along at a free majestic pace,
and in another minute I was riding by his side. The
horse which I bestrode on this occasion was "The
Cow," one of my best and stotidiest shooting-horses ;
and the forest being tolerably suited for the sport, I was
not long in finishing the elephant. I fired thirteen bul-
lets at his head and shoulder ; on receiving the last two
shots sharp right and left behind the .shoulder, he mado
a rapid charge, and disappeared among the trees. Cau-
tiously foUovv'ing, I discovered him lying in an upright
position, with his two fore legs stretched out before him.
Fancying he was still alive, I fired both barrels at his
car ; but, though the balls rang loudly on his venera-
ble head, the noble elephant heeded not their force;
his ancient spirit had departed.

This was a very large old elephant ; but his tusks
were much destroyed, being worn down, and having
been broken (probably in rocky ground) in former years.
Mutchuisho appeared in the highest glee, and dispatch-
ed messengers through the gorge in the mountains, the
name of which is Sabie, to advise Sicomy of the death
of the elephant. The chase had led me to within rifle-
range of the three veteran acacias T admired in the morn-
ing. I made my bower and a couch of grass beneath a
shady wait-a-bit thorn-tree, and encircled my fire with
a hedge of the same description.

320 ADVENTURES IN SOLTH AFRICA.

I resolved to bring on my wagons to the pass of Sa-
ble, where there was sufficient water for all my cattle,
my intention being to continue hunting through the
forests to the eastward, returning to Bamangwato by
a different route. I, however, foresaw that I must
give Isaac his dismissal before proposing such a meas-
ure : and, accordingly, I rode to camp on the 1st day
of August, and informed Mr. Isaac that his valuable
services could for the future be dispensed with, request-
ing, at the same time, that he w^ould make liimself
scarce as quickly as possible. I then explained to my
Hottentots my future, course ; and having directed
them to inspan and follow me to Sabie, under guid-
ance of the natives, I mounted the Old Gray, and start-
ed to return to my bower on the bank of the Mahala-
pia. The country between Letlochee and Sabie was
almost impracticable for wagons, the forest in many
parts being extremely dense, and sundry difficult nul-
lahs interv^ening. I therefore did not expect them to
reach their destination till the afternoon of the follow-
ing day. My men, however, did not appear until the
evening of the third day. They did not seem at all to
fancy the idea of following me further through the wil-
derness ; but, finding they could make no better of it,
they submitted to their fate ; and no sooner had I turn-
ed my back, than Mr. Kleinboy proposed that they
should drown their sorrows in the bowl. This brilliant
idea was unanimously seconded by all the rest. Axes
and hatchets were immediately resorted to, the liquor
was obtained, and before I had been gone an hour all
hands v.'ere mortal drunk.

At an early hour on the following day I started with
about sixty natives to look for elephants. We filled
our water kalabashes at an elephant's hole in the bed

A LIONESS SHOT. £521

of the Mahalapia, and held east through the forest, and
presently we discovered the fresh spoor of two bull ele-
phants. As we were thridding the spoor, the dogs
dashed up wind on some scent, and the forest was
awakened with their music. I imagined they had found
the elephants, and pressed through the thicket at my
utmost speed. As I approached I heard a hoarse noise
like the voice of an elephant ; but my eye sought in vain
for his lofty back towering above the wait-a-bits. 1
then fancied it must be a buffalo ; but on rounding the
thick bush, behind which my dogs were barking, I came
full in sight of an angry lioness, v/hich stood lashing
her tail, and growling fiercely at the dogs.

Observing the lioness, I shouted to the natives, who
were pressing forward, that it was " Tao," when a head-
long retreat was the immediate result, a number of the
party taking refuge in the trees. I dismounted, and,
advancing to within twenty yards of the lioness, waited
till she turned her head, when I fired at the back of her
neck, and stretched her lifeless on the ground. The
bullet had passed along the spine, and, penetrating the
skull, rested in her brain. On shouting to the natives
for a long time none of them would venture to approach
and when at length they did, their astonishment kne"
no bounds at beholding their formidable enemy so easiji,^/
disposed of. Having resumed the spoor of the elephants,
we soon ascertained that the hubbub with the lioness
had started them ; and after following the spoor some
distance through dense jungle, and over very rocky
ground, along the mountain side, the trackers declaimed
themselves to be fairly beaten, and we gave it up.

At an early hour on the 3d I again held east with a
large retinue to seek for elephants We took up spoor
at the fountains wliere I discovered boreh'; on the pre-

O 2

322 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ceding day. This spoor led us in a southeasterly course,
first through verdant forest, and then over an extreme-
ly rugged ridge that stretched into the forest from the
mountain chain. Beyond this ridge was an extensive
and almost impracticable jungle of wait-a-bit thorns,
and in tliis jungle we now heard the rumbling sound
of elephants. As we advanced, I perceived from the
nature of the ground that success was very doubtful,
and in a few minutes the dogs, winding the elephants,
ran in upon them and gave tongue ; a crashing and
trumpeting ensued, and all the natives shouted out
"Machoa" (signifying white man). With the utmost
difficulty I pressed through the jungle, and obtained a
view of one of the elephants, around which my dogs
were barking angrily ; but perceiving that it was a
small cow, and knowing well that if I shot her the na-
tives would not take up spoor again for at least a couple
of days, I reserved my fire ; and the dogs being jaded
by the sun, and returning to my call, we left the ele-
phants to their own devices.

A few minutes afterward we discovered the fresh
spoor of two enormous bull elephants, which had pas-
tured toward the hills. Having followed it a short dis-
tance, we came upon some dung, the outside of which
the sun had not yet dried, from which we might pre-
sume that the elephants were at that moment in the
same valley Vv4th ourselves. Two young men were
dispatched in haste to ascend the beetling crags of the
adjacent mountain, from which they could obtain a
bird's-eye view of the length and breadth of that and
the surrounding valleys. The main body of the natives
squatted on the ground, and I sat down to eat some
bread and elephant, and take a drinlc of water. I had
scarcely time to finish my luncheon Vvhen the two young

DISORDER IN THE CAMP. 323

rijen returned breathless with excitement to report that
they liacl discovered the two bull el(3phants browsing in
a grove of thorny trees on the mountain side within a
quarter of a mile of us. I approached under cover of a
bushy tree, on clearing which T beheld two of the finest
elephants in Africa standing broadside on within fifty
yards. The finer of these had one of his tusks broken
short off by the lip ; I therefore chose his comrade,
which carried a pair of very long and perfect tusks. I
had hard work with this elephant, and the sun was
under before I laid him low.

On the 4th I rode for my bower on the JNIahalapia,
in the hope of finding my wagons waiting for me ; but
I had misgivings about my men, who ought to havo
appeared on the evening of the 2d. On reaching my
bower where the former elephant had died, I found the
fires still smoking, but every man had disappeared:
Carollus, whom I had ordered to await me, had vanished
with the rest. I now fancied that I miist have missed
the natives who had passed me on their way to the ele-
phant of the previous day, and that Carollus had joined
the wagons wherever they might be. I was right in
my conjecture, and presently, on firing a signal shot, I
received an answer from the wagons, which were drawn
up in the romantic gorge of Sabie, as near as might bo
to the water. Drunkenness and disorder had jirevailcd
during my absence, as I had feared ; my chests wero
broken open, the fine captents of both my wagons wera
most seriously damaged, oxen had been lost, and horses
ridden off their legs in search of them. It appeared
that Mr. Kleinboy had been the chief delinquent. Un-
der the influence of the liquor, and anxious to distin-
guish himself, ho had resolved to try his hand intiunt-
ing the giraffe. Accordingly, he saddled Colesberg, my

324 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRISA.

favorite steed, and borrowed one of my eighty guinea
rifles, armed with which he had sped through the for
est he knew not whither ; and eventually becoming be
wildered, ho had lost himself entirely. In this cond:
tion he was fortunately discovered by a party of Baki
lahari, who conducted him safely to my camp.

I had at length got into the way of making mysei
tolerably comfortable in the field, and from this date 1
seldom went in quest of elephants without the follow-
ing impedimenta, viz., a large blanket, which I folded
and secured before my saddle, as a dragoon does his
cloak ; and two leather sacks, containing a flannel
shirt, warm trowsers, and a woollen night-cap, spare
ammunition, washing-rod, coffee, bread, sugar, pepper
and salt, dried meat, a wooden bowl, and a tea-spoon.
These sacks were carried on the shoulders of the na-
tives, for which service I remunerated them with beads.
They also carried my coffee-kettle, two calabashes ot
water, two American axes, and two sickles, which ]
used every evening to cut grass for my bed, and like
wise for my horses to eat throughout the night. M)
after-rider carried extra ammunition and a spare rifle
and my own personal appointments consisted of a wide-
awake hat, secured under my chin by " rheimpies," oi
strips of dressed skin, a coarse linenby shirt, sometimes
a kilt, and sometimes a pair of buckskin knee-breeches,
and a pair of " veldt-schoens," or home-made shoes. I
entirely discarded coat, w^aistcoat, and neck-cloth, and I
always hunted with my arms bare. My heels were
armed with a pair of powerful persuaders, and from my
left wrist depended by a double rheimpy an equally per*
suasive sea-cow jambok.

Awund my waist I wore two leathern belts or girdles.
The smaller of these discharged the duty of suspend-

DRESS AND APPOINTMENTS. 326

ers, and from it on my left side depended a plaited rheim-
py, eight inches in length, forming a loop, in which dan-
gled my powerful loading-rod, formed of a solid piece
of horn of the rhinoceros. The larger girdle was my
shooting-belt: this was a broad leather belt, on which
were fastened four separate compartments made of ot-
ter-skin, with flaps to button over of the same material.
The first of these held my percussion caps, the second
a large powder-flask, the third and fourth, which had
divisions in them, contained balls and patches, two sharp
clasp-knives, a compass, flint and steel. In this belt
I also carried a loading mallet, formed from the horn of
the rhinoceros ; this and the powder-flask were each se-
cured to the belt by long rheimpies, to prevent my losing
them. Last, but not least, in my right hand I usually
carried my double-barreled two-grooved rifle, which was
my favorite weapon. This, however, I subsequently
made up my mind, is not the proper tool for a mounted
man, especially when quick loading is necessary.

I remember having a discussion with the command-
ing officer of a regiment of heavy dragoons on this sub-
ject, and he and I agreed that nothing can surpass a
double-barreled smooth bore for practical utility. When
a two-grooved rifle has been once or twice discharged,
the bullet requires considerable power to drive it home;
and to a mounted man this is extremely inconvenient
T consider that no regiment in the service was more ef-
fectually armed than my own old corps, the Cape Mount-
ed Rifles, who were furnished with short double-barrel-
ed smooth-bored pieces, carrying a ball of twelve to the
pound, and having stout percussion locks. Give me a
weapon of this description to war against the large?
game of Africa. To accelerate loading, the hunter ought
CO have his balls stitched up in their patches, and well

326 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

greased before taking the field. This was my invariable
custom : I found it a great convenience, and after a
little practice I could load and fire in the saddle, al-
though riding in rough ground at a swinging gallop.

On the evening of the 12th a herald from Sicomy
stood up in the center of my camp, and loudly proclaim-
ed that it was th^ king's orders that on the following
day every man should return to head-quarters ; and, ac-
cordingly, next day all hands shouldered their impedi-
menta and forsook me. I could not rightly divine the
cause of this mysterious command ; but I attributed it
to some plotting scheme of Isaac's, who, I understood,
was living with Sicomy. I saw very plainly that Mut-
chuisho was against the move. In consideration of his
services, I begged his acceptance of several considera-
ble presents, and I also sent some presents to the king.
On parting, Mutchuisho promised shortly to return, and
he informed me that he had instructed a party of Baka-
lahari to assist me in my hunting during his alsence

END O? VOL. 1.

Kxt S e c 0 11 b

CONTENTS OF VOL. 11.

CHAPTER XVII
We march from Sabie — Track along a River-bed — The dry Grass on
Fire for Miles — Glorious Elejihant shooting — Cowardice of my Aft^r-
ridcr — Strange Circumstance at the Death of a Bull Elephant — A sa-
ble Antelope — Tete-a-tete with a disabled Elephant — The Klip-
springer Antelope — A Pack of wild Dogs capture and kill a Koodoo
— The coming of Summer — Vast Numbers of Birds visiting the Fount-
ains— My trusty two-grooved Rifle bursts — My Snuffers, Spoons, and
Candlesticks melted for Bullets — Elephants taking a Douche Bath —
Two of them slain — Yet more Elephants — My Horse Colesberg dies
of the African Distemper — Virulence of the Scourge Page 9

CHAPTER XVIII.
Turn my Wagons toward the Colony — A Troop of Elephants in Indian
File — Splendid Sport among them — Two of them break their Tusks
in falling — The Rainy Season commences — Erection of a Bothy —
The gigantic Nwaua-tree — Sicomy's Mountain Kraal — Four of his
Subjects become my S<-rvants — Corriebely — The Natives astonishea
by my finding a Mine of Lead — Elephant shooting — Leave the Land
of Elephants — BoStlonamy — Terrific Thunder-storm 26

CHAPTER XIX.

AH my Colonial Servants desert me — Pursue them in vain — Both Wau
ons get disabled — Melancholy Anticipations — Cut a Path through thp
Forest — A sandy Desert — Cattle dying for Want of Water — Troubles
surmounted — Pallahs and Koodoos — A Lion and Leopard visit the
Camp at Afidnight — Another Horse dies of Distemper — We reach
Booby — One of the Axle-trees breaks — The Bakatlas assist me— Fhe
Baggage-wagon upset in a River — The Distemper kills more Horses
— Lions roaring — Arrival at Dr. Livingstone's — March upon Chou-
aney — The Ngotwaui — A Herd of Buffaloes ajnong the Reeds .. 42

CHAPTER XX.

Arrive at Sichely's Kraal — Description of that Chief — His Wives — The
Rain-makers — My Gun Medicine — Bakatla — A Kraal struck by
Lightning — Reach Mr. Moffat's Station at Kuruman — Daring Rob-
beries of the Bushmen — Campbellsdorp — Discover myrimaway Hot-
tentots— We cross the Vaal — The Inmates of a Farm terrified by my
wild Appearance — Colesberg and Grahamstowu — English Hounds in
Africa 61

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXI.
Set out again for the Far Interior — Fort Beaufort — Purchase fresn
Steeds and Oxen — My old Servant CaroUiis rejoins me — Elejiliant
Fountain once more — Hunt Elepliants — Corriebely — Obliged to act
very decidedly with Sicomy — Horses and Oxen taken in I'its — Two
Dogs killed by a Leopard — A File of Bakalaliari Woirieu canying
Water to the Desert — A sleejuug Rhinoceros shi)t. — Hunting in the
Neighborhood of Lotlokane and Lellocbee — The Natives kill an Ele-
phant— A grim Lion slain — Rheumatic Fever attacks me — Leave
Bamangwato Country — The Game disturbed by Natives — Soobie —
Watch nightly for Game from a Place of Ambush — Vanquish a noble
Lioness ^ I'age 74

CHAPTER XXIL
A Lion shot from my Watching-hole at Midnight — Six Lions drink close
beside me — A Lioness slain — A Rhinoceros bites the Dust — Moslakose
Fountain — My Shooting-hole surrounded with Game — Pallahs, Sas-
saybies, Zebras, &c. — A Rhooze-Rheebok shot — Extraordinary Cir-
cumstance— My fiftieth Elephant bagged — Interesting Fouutains on
the Hills— Leave my Wagons for the Hills — Struggle with a Boa
Constrictor — Lions too numerous to be agreeable — Five Rhiuoceroses
shot as they came to driuk — A venomous Snake 94

CHAPTER XXIII.
Sichely's Kraal again — The Ngotwani — The loose Cattle are lost —
Chase and kill a Water-buck — A Portion of the Cattle recovered — A
Leopard bayed by my Dogs and slain — Bufialo-shooting beside the
Ngotwani — A Lion feeds on the Carcass — My Horse knocked down
by the King of Brates — Meet a grim Lion Face to Face at Midnight!
— He sheers off — These Animals unpleasantly bold — An amusing
Chase with a Buffalo — Interesting Stalk in rocky Ground — Leave my
Hunting-ground and encamp on the Vaal River — Great Herds — In
taking the Drift a Wagon sticks fast in the Middle of the River — Great
Fear of losing all my Property — Rescue of the Wagon — Colesberg —
A Farmer's \Vagon capsized in the Fish River — Visit Strydom's Farm
and liud it Desolate — Arrival at Grahamstown 112

CHAPTER XXIV.
Start on another Elephant-shooting Expedition — The Hart River — Nu-
merous Pack of Wild Dogs — Mahura, Chief of the Batlapis — Rumors
of Wars — The Meritsane — Lotlokane — Encounter with two Lions on
the Molopo — Chouaney — A tremendous Fight with a Buffalo — The
River Limpopo — Huge Crocodiles — A splendid Hippopotamus falls
to my Rifle — Immense Herds of Buffalo crossing the River — The

CONTENTS. Vll

Serolomootlooque Antelope unknown to Naturalists — A Herd of
Hippopotami — Fine Sport beside the River I'age 127

CHAPTER XXV.

We cross the Limpopo — Rash Eucounter with a Hippopotnmus — Re-
miirkable dome-like Rock — Two Serolomootlooques sliot — Hollow
Trees containing Honey — Gigantic Ant-hills — Hunting across the
Limpopo — Another Boa Constrictor — A Visit from Seleka — A Sea-
cow shot, which sinks — Resurrection of the Beast — Splendid Hipjio-
potamus shooting 142

CHABTER XXVL

Seleka's Town among the Rocks — Elephant hunting with Seleka and
his Men — Trading with Seleka — A Lion and Lioness with their Cubs
— An immense Herd of Hippopotami — Nine of them killed — Trap
for inflicting poisoned Wounds on Sea-cows — We cross the Limpopo,
and a Wagon slicks in the River — We trek down the Stream — Two
of my best Horses killed and eaten by Lions — The Chief of the Ba-
malette visits me — Audacity of the Lions — A Horse killed in a Pit-
fall— A Chief flogged for catching and consuming a Horse lo6

CHAPTER XXVn.
We trek down the Limpopo — Abundance of Sea-cows — The Lotsano
River — An immense Herd of Elephants — Combat with a first-rate old
Bull — Rheumatic Fever attacks me, which determines our Course
homeward — Elephants smashing Forest-trees — A Lion canies off one
of my Men from the Fireside — The Beast occufjied consuming him
all Night — The man-eating Lion slain — Three Hi])popotami shot — '
One of the Dogs eaten by a Crocodile — The fatal " Tsetse" Fly — The
Fountain of Seboono — An old Bull Elephant held in Check without
Gun or Dogs 170

CHAPTER XXVIIL

Paapaa Fountain — Watch by Moonlight from a Shooting-hole — Re-
markable Sport with Elephants — Four bagged and eight mortally
wounded in one Night — Elephant Hunting with Horse and Dogs by
Moonlight — A Troop of Lions — The Vultures with the shadowy
Wings — Another Dog snapped up by a Crocodile — The Skeleton of
an Elephant shot by me discovered — The Tusks being gone, strong
Measures ai-e adopted for their Recovery 189

CHAPTER XXIX.

We march up the Limpopo — The Guapa Mountains — Immense Variety
of Game — Stalk and shoot two Sable Antelopes — Several Hounds lost
— Romantic Ravine in the Guapa Mountains — My Forest Home—

Vlll CONTENTS.

Buck Koodoos — Stalking Sable Antelopes — Death of two of my Hor.
ses — Continue our March — Countless Herds of Game Page 206

CHAPTER XXX.
Leave the Pcaqijiame Country — Absurd Ceremony — My Cattle fail me
— Send to the Missionaiy Station for Aid — Encamp near the Limpo-
po— Indescriliable Fish — A young Secretary — Nearly all my Oxen
die — Assistance arrives from Mr. Livingstone — We reach the Resi-
dence of Sichely — A Hunter's Monument — We continue our March
through a beautiful Country — Adveuture with two savage Lionesses"
— A violent Tempest — Mahura — Bakalahari driving Game toward
their Pittfalls — We cross the Orange River and reach Cole&berg. 223

CHAPTER XXXL

Start on my fifth and last Expedition into the Interior — Mr. Orpen ac-
companies me — Huiried March — Extraordinary Herd of Blesboks —
The Hart River — Cattle attacked with Hoof Sickness — Three Lion-
esses fearfully mangle my Pack of Dogs — Lion Hunts — Hyenas de-
vour my Camp-stools — Meritsane — Six Buffaloes shot — Another Lion
Hunt — Glorious Chase with Elands — Sichely's Kraal — We cross the
Limpopo — A Liou attacks my Kraal and kills an Ox — A Field of
Battle — Seboono — My hundredth Elephant! — We march dowm the
Limpopo and hunt Hippopotami — Attacked by Rheumatic Fever —
Mr. Orpeu nearly killed by a Leopard 241

CHAPTER XXXn.
Mr. Orpen and myself in a helpless Condition — We leave the low-lying
Limpopo for the Mountains — Trading with Seleka — Ceremony to im-
part the Power of successful Shooting — March to the Ngotwani and
retiace our Steps to the Limpopo — Enormous Herds of Buffaloes—
An exciting Lion Hunt — Three of my Dogs killed — The noble Beast
takes the Water — A bold Mountain Ranger — Abundance of Game — A
brilliant Lion Hunt — Two killed out of a Troop of foiu" — Rhinoceros
Hunting — Leave the Mariqua River — Sublime Scenery — Another
Lion Hunt — A Buffalo rips up my After-rider's Horse — Camelopard
Chase — Making a Road to cross the Ngotwani — Sudden Encounter
with two huge Lions — Arrival at Sichely's Kraal 265

CHAPTER XXXin.

The Pass of God — Hunt Sable -md Roan Antelope — Sesetabie — My
Cattle-losses in five Expeditious — My Cattle desperate for want of
Water — Trading with Mahura — Inspanuing young Oxen — We cross
the Vaal River — The Country densely covered witli Game — An Os-
trich's Nest — Bloem Vonteyn — Multitudes of Antelope Skeletons
cover the Plains — The Great Orange River — We are detained by the
Flood — Twenty-three Men drowned in attempting to cross — We have
to take the Wagons to Pieces — Determine to revisit Old England
and transport my Collection of Trophies thither 286

FIVE YEARS' HUNTING
ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

CHAPTER XVII.

We march from Sabie — Track along a Rivei--bed — The dry Grass on
Fire for Miles — Glorious Elephant shooting — Cowardice of my After-
rider — Strange Circumstance at the Death of a Bull Elephant — A sa-
ble Antelope — Tete-a-tete with a disabled Elephant — The Klip-
epringer Antelope — A Pack of wild Dogs capture and kill a Koodoo
— The coming of Summer — Vast Numbers of Birds visiting the Fount-
ains— My trusty two-grooved Rifle bursts — My Snuffers, Spoons, and
Candlesticks melted for Bullets — Elephants taking a Douche Bath —
Two of them slain — Vet more Elephants — My Horse Colesberg diea
of the African Distemper — Virulence of the Scourge.

I REMAINED at Sabic, hunting elephant and rhinoce-
ros with various success, till the morning of the 22d
of August, when I inspanned, and marched for Mang-
maluky, which we reached at sundown, and I drew up
my wagons in an open grassy glade on a rather eleva-
ted position, commanding a fine view of the bold out-
line of the surrounding mountains. On the march I
shot a white rhinoceros in the act of charging down
a rocky face, with all the dogs in full pursuit of him.
The ball disabled him in the shoulder, when, pitching
upon his head, he described the most tremendous som-
ersault, coming down among the stones and bushes
with the overwhelming violence of an avalanche.

On the 27th I cast loose my horses at earliest dawn
of day, and then lay half asleep for two hours, when I

A2

10 ADVENTURES IS SOUTH AFRICA.

arose to consume coffee and rhinoce.'cs. Having break-
fasted, I started with a party of the natives to search
for elephants in a southerly direction. We held along
the gravelly bed of a periodical river, in which were
abundance of holes excavated by the elephants in quest
of water. Here the spoor of rhinoceros was extremely
plentiful, and in every hole where they had drunk the
print of the horn was visible. We soon found the spoor
of an old bull elephant, which led us into a dense for-
est, where the ground was particularly unfavorable for
spooring ; we, however, thridded it out for a considera-
ble distance, when it joined the spoor of other bulls.
The natives now requested me to halt, while men went
off in different directions to reconnoiter.

In the mean time a tremendous conflagration was
roaring and crackling close to windward of us. It was
caused by the Bakalahari burning the old dry grass
to enable the young to spring up with greater facility,
whereby they retained the game in their dominions. The
fire stretched away for many miles on either side of us,
darkening the forests far to leeward with a dense and
impenetrable canopy of smoke. Here we remained for
about half an hour, when one of the men returned, re-
porting that he had discovered elephants. This I could
scarcely credit, for I fancied that the extensive fire
which raged so fearfully must have driven, not only
elephants, but every living creature out of the district.
The native, however, pointed to his eye, repeating th
word "Klow," and signed to me to follow him.- My
guide led me about a mile through dense forest, when
we reached a little well-wooded hill, to whose summit
we ascended, whence a view might have been obtain-
ed of the surrounding country, had not volumes of
smoke obscured the scenery far and wide, as though

A HERD OF BULL ELEPHANTS. H

issuing from the funnels of a thousand steam-boats.
Here, to my astonishment, my guide halted, and point-
ed to the thiclcet close beneath me, when I instantly
perceived the colossal backs of a herd of bull elephants.
There they stood, quietly browsing on the lee side of
the hill, while the fire in its might was raging to wind-
ward within two hundred yards of them.

I directed Johannus to choose an elephant, and prom-
ised to reward him should he prove successful. Gal-
loping furiously down the hill, I started the elephants
with an unearthly yell, and instantly selected the finest
bull in the herd. Placing myself alongside, I fired both
barrels behind his shoulder, when he instantly turned
upon me, and in his impetuous career charged head
foremost into a large bushy tree, which he sent flying
before him high in the air with tremendous force, com-
ing down at the same moment violently on his knees.
He then met the raging fire, when, altering his course,
he wheeled to the right-about. As I galloped after him
I perceived another noble elephant meeting us in an
opposite direction, and presently the gallant Johannus
hove in sight, following his quarry at a respectful dis-
tance. Both elephants held on together; so I shouted
to Johannus, " I will give your elephant a shot in the
shoulder, and you must try to finish him." Spurring
ray horse, I rode close alongside, and gave the fresh ele-
phant two balls immediately behind the shoulder, when
he parted from mine, Johannus following; but before
many minutes had elapsed that mighty Nimrod reap-
peared, having fired one shot and lost his prey.

In the mean time I was loading and firing as fast as
could be, sometimes at the head, and sometimes behind
the shfulder, until my elephant's fore quarters were a
mass of gore, notwithstanding which he continued to

12 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

hold stoutly on, leaving the grass and branches of the
forest scarlet in his wake.

On one occasion he endeavored to escape by charg-
ing desperately amid the thickest of the flames ; but
this did not avail, and I was soon once more alongside.
I blazed away at this elephant until I began to think
that he was proof against my weapons. Having fired
thirty-five rounds with my two-grooved rifle, I opened
fire upon him with the Dutch six-pounder; and when
forty bullets had perforated his hide, he began for the
first time to evince signs of a dilapidated constitution.
He took up a position in a grove ; and as the dogs kept
barking round him, he backed stern foremost among
the trees, which yielded before his gigantic strength.
Poor old fellow ! he had long braved my deadly shafts,
but I plainly saw that it was now all over with him ;
BO I resolved to expend no further ammunition, but hold
him in view until he died. Throughout the chase this
elephant repeatedly cooled his person with large quan-
tities of water, which he ejected from his trunk over
his back and sides ; and just as the pangs of death came
over him, he stood trembling violently beside a thorny
tree, and kept pouring water into his bloody mouth
until he died, when he pitched heavily forward, with
the whole weight of his fore quarters resting on the
points of his tusks.

A most singular occurrence now took place. He lay
in this posture for several seconds; but the amazing
pressure of the carcass was more than the head was
able to support. He had fallen with his head so short
under him that the tusks received little assistance from
his legs. Something must give way. The strain on
the mighty tusks was fair; they did not, therefore,
yield; but the portion of his head in which the tusk

A SABLE ANTELOPE. 13

was imbedded, extending a long way above the eye,
yielded and burst with a muffled crash. The tusk
was thus free, and turned right round in liis head, so
that a man could draw it out, and the carcass fell over
and rested on its side. This was a very first-rate ele-
phant, and the tusks he carried were long and perfect.

On the 28th I saddled up and rode for the wagons,
steering my course by the lofty pyramidal mountain,
in whose vicinity they were drawn up. The remain-
der of the day was spent in constructing a loading-rod
of rhinoceros-horn and writing up the log. ^t an early
hour on the 29th I started a party of the natives, bear-
ing my impedimenta, to await me at the carcass of
the last elephant ; and in the forenoon I held thither,
accompanied by Johannus. Cantering along through
the forest, I came suddenly in full view of one of the
loveliest animals which graces this fair creation. This
was an old buck of the sable antelope, the rarest and
most beautiful animal in Africa. It is large and pow-
erful, partaking considerably of the nature of the ibex.
Its back and sides are of glossy black, beautifully con-
trasting with the belly, which is white as driven snow.
The horns are upward of three feet in length, and bend
strongly back with a bold sweep, reaching nearly to the
haunches.

This animal was first discovered by Captain Harris,
of the Bombay Engineers, in 1837. As I subsequently
devoted a great deal of time in the pursuit of this ante-
lope, I shall not here make any remarks concerning
him. The one which was now before me was the first
I had seen, and I shall never foi'get the sensations I ex-
perienced on beholding a sight so thrilling to the sports-
man's eye. He stood with a small troop of pallahs right
in our path, and had unfortunately detected us before

14 ADVENTURES IN SC;raT AFRICA.

we saw him. Shouting to my pack, I galloped after
him; but the day was close and warm, and the dogs
had lost their spirit with the sun. My horse being an
indifferent one, I soon lost ground, and the beautiful
sable antelope, gaining a rocky ridge, was very soon
beyond my reach, and vanished forever from my view.
I then rode on for the carcass of the elephant, where I
took up my quarters for the night, but I sought in vain
to close my eyelids: the image of the sable antelope
was still before me, and I slept little throughout the
night.

On the 31st I held southeast in quest of elephants,
with a large party of the natives. Our course lay
through an open part of the forest, where I beheld a
troop of springboks and two ostriches, the first I had
seen for a long time. We held for Towannie, a strong
fountain in the gravelly bed of a periodical river: here
two herds of cow elephants had drunk on the preced-
ing evening, but I declined to follow them ; and pres-
ently, at a muddy fountain a little in advance, we took
up the spoor of an enormous bull, which had wallowed
in the mud, and then plastered the sides of several of
the adjacent veteran-looking trees. We followed the
spoor through level forest in an easterly direction, when
the leading party overran the spoor, and casts were
made for its recovery. Presently I detected an excit-
ed native beckoning violently a little to my left, and,
cantering up to him, he said that he had seen the ele-
phant. He led me through the forest a few hundred
yards, when, clearing a wait-a-bit, I came full in vidw
of the tallest and largest bull elephant I had ever seen.
He stood broadside to me, at upward of one hundred
yards, and his attention at the moment was occupied
with the dogs, which, unaware of his proximity, were

EXPERrMENTAL SK0T3. !5

rushing past him, while the old fellow ge5m<?d t<-) pazo
at their unwonted appearance with surprise

Halting my horse, I fired at his shoulder, and ,'ieonr-
ed him with a single shot. The ball caught him I'.i^h
upon the shoulder-blade, rendering him instantly dead
lame ; and before the echo of the bullet could reach
my ear, I plainly saw that the elephant was mine. The
dogs now came up and barked around him, but, finding
himself incapacitated, the old fellow seemed determin-
ed to take it easy, and, limping slowlv to a neighbor-
ing tree, he remained stationary, eyeii^ his pursuers
with a resigned and philosophic air.

I resolved to devote a short time to the contempla.ion
of this noble elephant before I should lay him low ; ac-
cordingly, having ofi'-saddled the horses beneath a shady
tree which was to be my quarters for the night and en-
suing day, I quickly kindled a fire and put on the ket-
tle, and in a very few minutes my coffee was prepared
There 1 sat in my forest home, coolly sipping my coffee,
with one of the finest elephants in Africa awaiting my
pleasure beside a neighboring tree.

It was, indeed, a striking scene ; and as I gazed upon
the stupendous veteran of the forest, I thought of the
red deer which I loved to follow in my native land, and
felt that, though the Fates had driven me to follow a
more daring and arduous avocation in a distant land, it
was a good exchange which I had made, for I was now
a chief over boundless forests, which yielded unspeak-
ably more noble and exciting sport.

Having admired the elephant for a considerable time,
I resolved to make experiments for vulnerable points,
and, approaching very near, I fired several bullets at
different parts of his enormous skull. These did not
aeem to affect him in the slightest ; he only acknowl-

16 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

'dgod the shots by a "salaam-like" movement of his
trunk, with the point of which he gently touched tlie
Auund with a strikmg and peculiar action. Surprised
and shocked to find that I v/as only tormenting and
prolongmg the sufferings of the noble beast, which bore
his trials with such dignified composure, I resolved to
finish the proceeding with all possible dispatch ; accord-
ingly, I opened fire upon him from the left side, aiming
behind the shoulder ; but even there it was long before
my bullets seemed to take effect. I first fired six shots
with the two-grooved, which must have eventually
proved mortal, but as yet he evinced no visible distress;
after which I fired three shots at the same part with
the Dutch six-pounder. Large tears now trickled from
his eyes, which he slowly shut and opened ; his colossal
frame quivered convulsively, and, falling on his side, he
expired. The tusks of this elephant were beautifully
arched, and were the heaviest I had yet met with,
averaging ninety pounds weight apiece.

On the 1st of September — so full of interest to the
British Nimrod — we saddled our steeds and steered our
course for Mangmaluky. Cantering along the base of
a mountain range, I started two klipspringers, which
went bounding up the mountain side with the elasticity
of an India-rubber ball, selecting for their path the most
prominent points of the large fragments of rock of which
the mountain side was chiefly composed. I shot one
of these, being the first of the species I had killed,
though in subsequent years, while hunting the sable
antelope, I secured a number of fine specimens. This
darling little antelope frequents precipitous rocky hills
&nd mountains, and bounds along over the broken
masses of rock with the most extraordinary ease and
agility : it may often be seen perched, like a chamois,

KLIPSPRIXGERS KOODOO BULL ELEPIIAHT. 17

on the sharp pinnacle of some rock or stone, with its
four feet drawn close up together. Its hoofs are differ-
ent from those of other antelopes, being suited solely
for rocky ground, and ar3 so formed that the weight of
the animal rests upon their tips. On looking down a
precipice I have oftrsn seen two or three of this interest-
ing antelope lying together on a large flat mass of rock,
and sheltered from the power of the noonday sun by
the friendly shade of some sandal- wood or other mount-
ain tree. They are about half the size of the Scottish
roebuck, whose winter coat the texture of their hair very
much resembles, but it is stiffer, and of a yellower color.
On the afternoon of the 2d, as I was sitting in my
wagon writing up my journal, a koodoo charged past
me, closely followed by a pack of hungry wild dogs,
which maintained their position although my kennel
joined them in the chase, and, holding on, the wild dogs
killed the koodoo just as it reached the water where my
oxen drank. On the 3d I took the field with Johannus
and a small party of Bakalahari, and held a northerly
direction. After following the spoor of four bull ele-
phants for many miles in a semicircular course, we
came up with them in extremely dangerous and un-
favorable ground, when I was fortunate enough to se-
cure the finest, after a severe and dangerous conflict,
during which, on three separate occasions, I narrowly
escaped destruction. The horse I rode was "Coles-
berg," which, as usual, capered and balked me when I
tried to fire from his back ; when I dismounted, he
seemed to take a pleasure in jerking my arm as I was
taking aim ; and on the elephant charging, he declined
permitting me to regain the saddle. This elephant was
a first-rate bull, with large and perfect tusks : he fell
within three hundred yards of the fountainb, where I

18 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICi.

found a black rhinoceros which I wounded on the 31&1
of August. The sun was powerful throughout the day ,
the months of winter were gone by, and summer was
rapidly advancing. The trees were budding and put-
ting forth leaves, which loaded the passing breeze with
a sweet and balmy fragrance. In low-lying districts
the young grass had already commenced to shoot forth
:ts tender blades, and all nature seemed to pant for the
grateful rains to robe herself in her mantle of summer
verdure.

In the evening I laved in the fountain my sunburned
eyes, which were sore and irritated from the constant
strain necessarily concomitant on spooring; after which
I sat for a long time silently contemplating the tran-
quil scene. As the sun went down, the number of the
feathered tribe that visited the fountains was truly sur-
prising : turtle-doves, and extremely small, long-tailed
pigeons, were most abundant. These kept collecting
from every side, uttering their gentle notes, till the
trees and bushes around the glade were thickly covered
with them. I also observed four distinct varieties of
partridge ; and Guinea-fowls attended in flocks of from
twenty to sixty. On the 4th, having few followers, I
was occupied from early dawn until the sun was under
in cleaning the skull and hewing out the tusks of my
bull elephant, and on the following day I returned to
camp with a party of Bakalahari bearing them upon
their shoulders. On the 6th I took the field with about
forty natives, and held through the forest in a south-
easterly direction. Falling i:\ with two white rhinoce ■
roses, one of which carried an unusually long horn, I
was induced to give her chase, and by hard riding I
soon overtook and finished her with four shots behind
the shiQulder.

THE TRUSTY TWO-GROOVED RIFLE BURSTS. 19

In the afternoon I was engaged for many hours com-
bating with a vicious elephant, which I linished with
thirty-five bullets in the shoulder, in an impracticable
jungle of wait-a-bit thorns. The conflict was greatly
prolonged by " The Immense Brute," which capered
continually, and constantly destroyed the correctness
of my aim. While I was fighting with this elephant,
my dogs were combating with a younger bull, which
they hunted backward and forward in the sanie thicket
with myself. This elephant took up a position beside
the one which had fallen, and the dogs continued bark-
ing around him. My rifle being now extremely dirty,
I experienced considerable difficulty in ramming home
the balls, notwithstanding the power of my rhinoceros-
horn loading-rod. This being accomplished, I ran cau-
tiously within twenty yards of this second elephant,
and, resting my rifle on a branch, aimed for his heart
and pressed the trigger. Alas ! it was for the last time.
The barrel burst with a terrific explosion, sending the
Locks and half the stock flying riglit and left, and very
nearly sending me to " the land of the leal." I, how-
ever, received no further damage than a slight burn on
my left arm, and the loss for many days of the use of
my left ear, a fragment of the barrel having whizzed
close past it. At first I was so stunned that I knew
not if I were wounded or not, and on recovering from
the shock my person underwent a strict scrutiny. Be-
fore I discovered these elephants I was faint from thirst,
and quite done up with the power of the sun, owing to
which I considered that I did not attack the elephant
so bravely as I might otherwise have done.

The loss of my trusty two-grooved rifle, in such a re-
mote corner of the world, was irreparable, and cut me
to the heart. It was my main stay ; and as I thought

20 ADVENTURES IN SOUrH AFRICA.

of the many services it had performed for me in the
hour of need, I mourned over it as David mourned for
Absalom, On the evening of the 7th I returned to
Mangmaluky under a burning sun, which continued
oppressive throughout the day. Having lost my two-
grooved rifle, I resolved to try what could be done with
the double-barreled Moore and Purdey rifles, carrying
sixteen to the pound, and I accordingly set about cast-
ing hardened bullets to suit them. For this purpose I
had brought in with me a quantity of solder, but I now
had the mortification to discover that all that I had pos-
sessed of this important article had mysteriously van-
ished by some underhand transaction between my fol-
lowers and Sicomy. I was thus reduced to the extrem-
ity of melting the contents of my old military canteen
to harden the bullets ; and upon overhauling it, I as-
certained that the tray of the snuflers, the spoons, can-
dlesticks, tea-pots, and cwo drinking-cups, were admi-
rably suited for this purpose, and I accordingly ser
tenced them to undergo the fiery ordeal of the ladle.

In the evening I had much pleasure to behold m .■
old frienil Mutchuisho walk into my camp, followed by
a numerous party of the natives. He seemed glad tc
see me, and we at once arranged to make an expedi-
tion to the eastward on the following day. According-
ly, on the morning of the 9th I took the field with Jo-
hannus and Mutchuisho, and about eighty men, and
proceeded in a southeasterly direction. We continued
our course till the sun went down without finding fresh
spoor, when we halted for the night to leeward of a
fountain, wdiere we hoped that elephants would come
to drink. The heat throughout the day had been most
oppressive, the dense level forest rendering it still more
insupportable. On the morrow we cast loose the horses

ELEPHANT SPOORING. 21

oo graze long before the dawn of day. No elephants
had visited the fountain ; so, after an early breakfast,
we saddled up, and again held on in an easterly direc-
tion through boundless forests, till I found myself in a
30untry which I had not hitherto visited. Passing
along beneath a rocky hillock, we started a detachment
of hideous hyaenas, which sought shelter from the sun
beneath the shadow of the rocks. We passed several
large herds of lovely camelopards, and I also obtained
two very deadly chances of rhinoceros, both fine old
bulls ; but knowing well from past experience that mj
policy was to keep my followers hungry, I refrained
trom firing a single shot.

In the afternoon we reached a small vley, where five
first-rate bull elephants had drunk on the preceding
evening. Here my followers all sat down and rested
for a quarter of an hour, a wild duck swimming fear-
lessly beside us. We then took up the spoor, but, as
it was late in the day, I had not the slightest expecta-
tion of success, and was so done up with the power of
the sun that I felt it irksoroc to sit in the saddle. The
spoor led east, right away from camp, but the elephants
seemed to have proceeded slowly, having extended wide-
ly from one another, and rent and uprooted an amazing
number of goodly trees. Presently the spoor took a
turn to our left, when I grieved to remark that we were
following it down the wind ; thus we eventually started
the elephants, which were feeding in the forest at no
great distance, but, owing to a check among' the track-
ers, we were not aware of this until the elephants had
gained a considerable start.

On finding that they were gone, Johannus and I
went ofTon the spoor at a rapid pace, but I had not the
slightest expectation of overtaking them ; for it was so

22 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

late that, even if I had already commenced the attack,
the chances were that before I could finish one the night
would have set in. It is much easier to hold the spoor
of a herd of elephants that have been alarmed than to
follow those which have been undisturbed, since the for-
mer adopt a decided course, and follow one another in a
direct line. Thus we were enabled to hold the spoor at a
gallop without a check until our horses began to evince
distress ; and, despairing of success, I was just going to
pull up, when I heard Johannus exclaim, "Sir, sir, dar
stand ilia," and, looking before me, I beheld five enor-
mous old bull elephants walking slowly along. They
seemed heated by the pace at which they had retreat-
ed, and were now refreshing themselves with large vol-
umes of water, which nature enables them to discharge
from their capacious stomachs, and shower back upon
their bodies with their extraordinary trunks. I over-
took these elephants in open ground, which enabled me
at once to make a fine selection. I had never before
obtained so satisfactory a view of a herd of bulls : they
really looked wondrous vast. It is a heart-stirring sight
to behold one bull elephant ; but when five gigantic old
fellows are walking slowly along before you, and you
feel that you can ride up and vanquish whichever one
you fancy, it is so overpoweringly exciting that it al-
most takes a man's breath away ; but it was now too
late in the day to part with my breath for a single mo-
ment. Johannus whispered to me to wait a little, to
allow the horses to recover their wind ; but Wolf dash-
ing in upon them, I was obliged to follow to obtain an
accurate selection of the tusks. Spurring my horse,
in another moment I was in the middle of them, closely
followed by Johannus ; and in a twinkling the finest
bull had received the contents of the Moore and Pur-

TWO BULL ELrPHANTS SHOT. 23

dey behind the shoulder. I was now joined by Wolf,
who rendered me important service by considerably en-
grossing the attention of tiie elephant, running .bark-
ing before him as he charged. I was in a precious hur-
ry, as the sun was setting, and I kept loading and firing
at dueling distance. On receiving the twenty-fourth
shot he stood trembling violently for several seconds,
and then fell heavily forward on his tusks, after which
he rolled over and rested on his side. I reckoned this
to be a fortunate conclusion after the hard and toilsome
day I had spent under the power of a scorcliing sun.
Mutchuisho and the natives soon made their appear-
ance, all in wondrous good humor at our success.

The nearest water to this elephant was in a vley sit-
uated several miles to the eastward ; and when the na-
tives had constructed a number of water-bags of the
under skin of the elephant, a watering party was dis-
patched with these and a number of calabashes which
they always carried along with them. This party re-
joined us at the hour of midnight, and reported that
while they were filling their water-bags at one side of
the vley, a troop of bull elephants were drinking at the
other. Accordingly, on the morrow I went in quest of
these, accompanied by Mutchuisho and a small party,
and on the second day came up with them and bagged an
old bull, whose tusks were the stoutest I had ever seen.

On the morrow I cast loose the steeds at earliest
dawn, and soon after we heard the hoarse cry of an ele-
phant within half a mile of us. I permitted my horses
to graze while the dew was on the grass, after which,
along with the dogs, I sent them to water with a party
of Bakalahari at a fountain reported three miles dis-
tant, and in the mean time I regaled myself with cof-
fee and rhinoceros.

24 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

It is extraordinary how soon the mind accustoms i*/.
self to every thing, good or bad. There I sat taking
my breakfast, with a troop of princely elephants feed-
ing v/ithin a few minutes' ride of me, with as much in-
difference as if I were going woodcock shooting. 1 cer-
tainly did not feel half so anxious about the matter as
I usually did when taking my breakfast on a fine May
morning, with a southerly wind, before starting to fish
my native river. This indifference was probably ow-
ing to the reduced state of my system from improper
diet and constant toil.

When the Bakalahari returned with the dogs and
horses, they reported fresh spoor of bull elephants by
the fountain ; and at the same moment another party,
whom Mutohuisho had dispatched in the direction of
ihe cry, returned to say that it was a herd of bulls
which we had heard that morning. This was very
pleasing intelligence, for I had fancied that the ele-
phants must be a troop of cows, w^hose traces we had
observed on the preceding evening. Every thing being
ready, we made for the elephants, and, as we approach-
ed them, an old bull rhinoceros was detected standing
within forty yards, which, as if aware that I dared not
fire on him, kept trotting along the path before me.
We discovered the elephants quietly browsing on very
unfavorable ground, the greater part of the forest con-
sisting of the ever-recurring wait-a-bits. The troop was
composed of three old bulls, two of which carried stumpy
and broken tusks.

On the evening of the 20th, after bowling over an-
other elephant with a splendid pair of tusks, I returned
to camp, where, to my utter horror, I found my favor-
ite Colesberg dangerously ill. Guessing that it was
the distemper, I had him up instantly and bled him

DEATH OF COLESBERG. 25

freely, but to no purpose. Finding him worse on the
morrow, I bled him again, but before mid-day he died
in great pain, and shortly after life had departed a co-
pious discharge of white foam issued from his nostrils,,
by which I knew that his illness was the African dis-
temper.*

I had also the mortification to observe that " The Im-
mense Brute" was affected, evincing symptoms similar
to those of Colesberg, on which I had him caught and
bled him freely. About the hour of mid-day we got
under way, when I trekked till sundown in a south-
westerly course, steering for the mountains of Baman-
gwato. I formed my encampment beside a Uttle fount-
ain, whose name I never ascertained.

* This bitter scourge of the African sportsman prevails throughout
every district of the interior during the greater part of the year. At
no season is the hunter's stud exempt from its ravages; it is most prev-
alent, however, during the summer months, generally commencing
with the early rains. There are various opinions among the horse-
breeders of the colony regarding its prevention and cure ; but, not-
vcithstanding all that has been done and said, the subject still remains
wrapped in utter mystery. The distemper rarely visits districts adja-
cent to the sea, and is also unusual in moiuitain districts. In propor-
tion as the traveler advances from the sea, so will he find the sickness
prevalent. In all years it is not alike, and every fifth or seventh year
it ravages the farms ou the frontier districts, where a farmer often loses
from fifty to a hundred horses in a single season. Bleeding is gen-
erally believed to act as a preventive. When a horse is attacked with
it, he almost invariably comes up to his master's wagon, or the door of
his dwelling-place, as if soliciting assistance in his deep distress, and
»vhen led away to a distance, unless he be secured, the poor animal
will continue to return to his master's dwelling. This was the case
AHth my much-lamented Colesberg, of the free and fiery indoraitaole
spirit.

Vol. IL- B

26 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Turn my Wagons toward the*Co]ony — A Troop of Elephants ia Indian
File — Splendid Sport among them — Two of them break their Tusks
in falling — The Rainy Season conunences — Erection of a Botliy —
The gigantic Nwana-tree — Sicomy's Mountain Kraal — Four of his
Subjects become my Servants — Corriebely — The Natives astonished
by my finding a Mine of Lead — Elephant shooting — Leave the Land
of Elephants — BoStlouamy — Terrific Thunder-storm.

Having so far succeeded in the object of my expedi-
tion, and both my wagons being now heavily laden with
the tusks of elephants and a large collection of the spoils
of the case, with a number of other interesting curios-
ities, I at length resolved once more to turn my face to*
ward the distant dwellings of my countrymen. On the
23d of September, however, although harassed in my
mind, and fearing to lose all my horses if I did not
speedily forsake the country, I yielded to my inclination,
and the persuasions of Mutchuisho, once more to take
the field, and follow the spoor of two bull elephants, re-
ported to have visited a distant fountain. Before start-
ing I gave Johannus my phlegme, and a hasty lesson in
the art of bleeding, with instructions to bleed copiously
any of my stud evincing the slightest symptoms of dis-
temper. We held an easterly course, and at sundown
on the second day I bagged a white rhinoceros and a
fine old bull elephant, beside whose carcass I bivouack-
ed as usual. On the forenoon of the 25th I saddled up
and held for camp, accompanied by only one attendant.

It was a glorious day, with a cloudy sky, and the
wind blew fresh off the Southern Ocean. Havinfj rid«

HERD OF ELEPHANTS. 27

den some miles in a northerly direction, we crossed the
broad and gravelly bed of a periodical river, in which
were abundance of holes excavated by the elephants,
containing delicious water. Having passed the river,
we entered an entensive grove of picturesque cameel-
dorn trees, clad in young foliage of the most delicious
green. On gaining a gentle eminence about a mile be-
yond this grove, I looked forth upon an extensive hol-
low, where I beheld for the first time for many days a
fine old cock ostrich, which quickly observed us and
dashed away to our left. I had ceased to devote my
attention to the ostrich, and was straining my eyes in
an opposite direction, when Kleinboy called out to me,
" Dar loup de ould carle ;" and turning my eyes to the
retreating ostrich, I beheld two first-rate old bull ele-
phants, charging along at their utmost speed within a
hundred yards of it. They seemed at first to be in great
alarm, but, quickly discovering what it was that had
caused their confusion, they at once reduced their pace to
a slow and stately walk. This was a fine look-out ; the
country appeared to be favorable for an attack, and I
was followed by Wolfe and Bonteberg, both tried and
serviceable dogs with elephants. Owing to the pace at
which I had been riding, both dogs and horses were out
of breath, so I resolved not to attack the elephants im-
mediately, but to follow slowly, holding them in view.
The elephants were proceeding right up the wind, and
the distance between us was about five hundred yards.
I advanced quietly toward them, and had proceeded aljout
halfway, when, casting my eyes to my right, I beheld
a whole herd of tearing bull elephants standing thick
together on a wooded eminence within three hundred
yards of me. These elepiiants were almost to leeward.
Now the correct thing to do was to slay the best in each

28 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

troop, which I accomplished in the following manner: ]
gave the large herd my wind, upon which they instantly
tossed their trunks aloft, " a moment snuffed the tainted
gale," and, wheeling about, charged right down wind,
crashing through the jungle in dire alarm. My object
now was to endeavor to select the finest bull, and hunt
him to a distance from the other troop, before I should
commence to play upon his hide. Stirring my steed,
I galloped forward. Right in my path stood two rhi-
noceroses of the white variety, and to these the dogs in-
stantly gave chase. I followed in the wake of the re-
treating elephants, tracing their course by the red dust
which they raised and loft in clouds behind them.

Presently emerging into an open glade, I came full
in sight of the mighty game; it was a truly glorious
sight ; there were nine or ten of them, which were, with
one exception, full-grown, first-rate bulls, and all of them
carried very long, heavy, and perfect tusks. Their first
panic being over, they had reduced their pace to a free,
majestic walk, and they followed one leader in a long
line, exhibiting an appearance so grand and striking
that any description, however brilliant, must fail to con-
vey to the mind of the reader an adequate idea of the
reality. Increasing my pace, I shot alongside, at the
same time riding well out from the elephants, the bette'
to obtain an inspection of their tusks. It was a dif-
ficult matter to decide which of them I should select,
for every elephant seemed better than his neighbor;
but, on account of the extraordinary size and beauty
of his tusks, I eventually pitched upon a patriarchal
bull, which, as is usual with the heaviest, brought up
the rear. I presently separated him from his comrades,
and endeavored to drive him in a northerly direction
There is a peculiar art in driving an elephant in the

DRIVING AN ELEPHANT. ■ 29

particular course which you may fancy, and, simple as
it may seem, it nevertheless requires the hunter to have
a tolerable idea of what he is about. It is widely dif-
ferent from driving in an eland, which also requires
judicious riding: if you approach too near your ele-
phant or shout to him, a furious charge will certainly
ensue, while, on the other hand, if you give him too
wide a berth, the chances are that you will lose him in
the jungle, which, notwithstanding his size, is a very
simple matter, and, if once lost sight of, it is more than
an even bet that the hunter will never again obtain a
glimpse of him. The ground being favorable, Klein-
boy called to me to commence firing, remarking very
prudently that he was probably making for some jun-
gle of wait-a-bits, where we might eventually lose him,
I continued, however, to reserve my fire until I had
hunted him to what I considered to be a safe distance
from the two old fellows which we had first discovered.

At length closing with him, I dared him to charge,
which he instantly did in fine style, and as he pulled
up in his career I yelled to him a note of bold defiance,
and, cantering alongside, again defied him to the com-
bat. It was thus the fight began, and, the ground be-
ing still favorable, I opened a sharp fire upon him, and
in about a quarter of an hour twelve of my bullets were
lodged in his fore quarters. He now evinced strong
symptoms of approaching dissolution, and stood catching
up the dust with the point of his trunk and throwing it
in clouds above and around him. At such a moment
it is extremely dangerous to approach an elephant on
foot, for I have remarked that, although nearly dead,
he can muster strength to make a charge with great
impetuosity. Being anxious to finish him, I dismount-
ed from my steed, and, availing myself of the cover of

*0 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

a gigantic nwana-tree, whose diameter was not less than
ten feet, I ran up within twenty yards, and gave it him
sharp right and left behind the shoulder. These two
shots wound up the proceeding; on receiving them, he
backed stern foremost into the cover, and then walked
slowly away. I had loaded my rifle, and was putting
on the caps, when I heard him fall over heavily; but,
alas ! the sound was accompanied by a sharp crack,
which I too well knew denoted the destruction of one
of his lovely tusks; and, on running forward, I found
him lying dead, with the tusk, which lay under, snap-
ped through the middle.

I did not tarry long for an inspection of the elephant,
but, mounting my horse, at once set off to follow on
the spoor of the two old fellows which the ostrich had
alarmed. Fortunately, I fell in with a party of na-
tives, who were on their way to the wagons with the
impedimenta, and, assisted by these, I had sanguine
hopes of shortly overtaking the noble quarry. We had
not gone far when two wild boars, with enormous tusks,
stood within thirty yards of me, but this was no time
to fire, and a little after a pair of white rhinoceroses
stood directly in our path. Casting my eyes to the
right, I beheld within a quarter of a mile of me a herd
of eight cr ten cow elephants, with calves, peacefully
browsing on a sparely-wooded knoll. The spoor we
followed led due south, and the wind was as fair as it
could blow. We passed between the twin-looking,
abrupt, pyramidal hills, composed of huge disjointed
blocks of granite, which lay piled above each other in
grand confusion. To the summit of one of these I as-
cended with a native, but the forest in advance was so
impenetrable that we could see nothing of the game we
sought. Descending from the hillock; we resumed the

SPLENDID SPORT. 31

spoor, and were enabled to follow at a rapid pace, the
native who led the spooring party being the best track-
er in Bamangwato. I had presently very great satis-
faction to perceive that the elephants had not been
alarmed, their course being strewed with branches which
they had chewed as they slowly fed along. The track-
ers now became extremely excited, and strained their
eyes on every side in the momentary expectation of
beholding the elephants. At length we emerged into
an open glade, and, clearing a grove of thorny mimosas,
we came full in sight of one of them. Cautiously ad-
vancing, and looking to my right, I next discovered his
comrade, standing in a thicket of low wait-a-bits, with
in a hundred and fifty yards of me; they were both first-
rate old bulls, with enormous tusks of great length. I
dismounted, and warily approached the second elephant
for a closer inspection of his tusks. As I drew near he
sliglitiy turned his head, and I then perceived that his
further one was damaged toward the point, while at
the same instant his comrade, raising his head clear of
the bush on which he browsed, displayed to my delight-
ed eyes a pair of the most beautiful and perfect tusks
I had ever seen.

Regaining my horse, I advanced toward this ele-
phant, and when within forty yards of him he walked
slowly on before me in an open space, his huge ears
gently flapping, and entirely concealing me from his
view. Inclining to the left, I slightly increased my
pace, and walked past him witlijn si.^.y yards, upon
which he observed me for the first time; but probably
mistaking " Sunday" for a hartebeest, he continued his
course with his eye upon me, but showed no symptoms
of alarm. The natives had requested me to endeavor,
if possible, to hunt him toward the water, which lay in

32 ADVENTURES l.V SOUTH AFRICA.

a northerly direction, and this I resolved to do. Hav-
ing advanced a little, I gave him my wind, when he
was instantly alarmed and backed into the bnshes,
holding his head high and right to me. Thus he stood
motionless as a statue, under the impression, probably,
that, owing to his Lilliputian dimensions, I had failed
to observe him, and fancying that I would pass on with-
out detecting him. I rode slowly on, and described a
semicircle to obtain a shot at his shoulder, and, halt-
ing my horse, fired from the saddle; he got it in the
shoulder-blade, and, as slowly and silently I continued
my course, he still stood gazing at mo in utter astonish-
ment. Bill and Flam were now slipped by the natives,
and in another moment they were barking around him.
I shouted loudly to encourage the dogs and perplex the
elephant, who seemed puzzled to know what to think
of us, and, shrilly trumpeting, charged headlong after
the dogs. Retreating, he backed into the thicket, then
charged once more, and made clean away, holding the
course I wanted. When I tried to fire, " Sunday"
was very fidgety, and destroyed the correctness of my
aim. Approaching the elephant, I presently dismount-
ed, and, running in, gave him two fine shots behind
the shoulder; then the dogs, which were both indiffer-
ent ones, ran barking at him. The consequence was
a terrific charge, the dogs at once making for their
master, and bringing the elephant right upon me. I
had no time to gain my saddle, but ran for my life.
The dogs, forftinatejy, took after " Sunday," who,
alarmed by the trumpeting, dashed frantically away,
though in the heat of the affi-ay I could not help laugh
ing to remark horse, dogs, and elephant all charging
along in a direct line.

The dogs, having missed their master, held away

THE ELEPHANT. KREAKS HIS TUSK. 33

for Kleinboy, who had long disappeared I knew not
whither. " Sunday" stood still, and commenced to
graze, while the elephant, slowly passing within a few
yards of him, assumed a position under a tree beside
him. Kleinboy presently making his appearance, I
called to him to ride in and bring me my steed ; but
he refused, and asked me if I wished him to go head,
long to destruction. " Sunday" having fed slowly
away from the elephant, I went up and he allowed me
to recapture him. I now plainly saw that the elephant
was dying, but I continued firing to hasten his demise.
Toward the end he took up a position in a dense thorny
thicket, where for a long time he remained. Approach-
ing within twelve paces, I fired my two last shots, aim-
ing at his left side, close behind the shoulder. On re-
ceiving these he backed slowly through the thicket, and,
clearing it, walked gently forward about twenty yards,
when he suddenly came down with tremendous vio-
lence right on his broadside. To my intense mortifica-
tion, the heavy fall was accompanied by a loud, sharp
crack, and on going up I found one of his matchless
tusks broken short off by the lip. This was a glorious
day's sport: I had bagged in one afternoon probably
the two finest bull elephants in Bamangwato, and, had
it not been for the destruction of their noble trophies,
which were the two finest pair of tusks I had obtained
that season, my triumph on the occasion had been grea"'.
and unalloyed.

I was now languid and faint from excessive thirst
and the nearest water was still very remote. Being
joined by the natives, we quickly proceeded to divest
the side of the elephant of a large sheet of the outer
skin, when of th"2 under one we constructed a pair of
water-bags, with which two of the natives set out.

B2

34 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFHICA.

leading along with them the dogs and horses; nor did
they rejoin us till after midnight, having lost their
reckoning by the way. Tlicir comrades who were with
me, conjecturing the cause of the delay, requested me
to fire signal-shots at intervals throughout the night,
which was the means of their eventually reaching their
destination. At an early hour on the following day,
leaving Kleinboy with the natives to look after the
ivory, I set out with two men, to show them where the
other elephant lay, and thence to continue my way to
camp.

The weather had hitherto been favorable for the toil-
some pursuit of elephant hunting, little rain having
fallen since I had first entered the country. At length,
however, the rainy season was at hand, and we were
constantly visited by the most appalling thunder-storms,
accompanied by overwhelming torrents of rain, which
filled the hitherto dry nullahs and gravelly water-cours-
es with running streams, and converted the parched for-
est and arid plains into blossoming verdure and grassy
meads. While hunting I was often overtaken by the
rains, and on these occasions I still managed to keep
myself tolerably comfortable by compelling the natives
to erect for me a bothy, or tei^porary hut. This duty
they often proved reluctant to perform ; but I iavaria-
bly managed to gain my point by explaining to them
that, if my guns and powder were exposed to the rain,
they would die, and then I could kill no more elephants
for them.

When attended by a large party, the erection of a
good substantial bothy was a simple and easy proceed-
ing, and was accomplished in the following manner :
One party, armed with tomahawks, went in quest of
long forked poles, which they cut in lengths often feet:

MODE OF ERECTING A BOTHY. 35

a second party gathered green brush-wood ; and the
third collected a large quantity of long dry grass, which
they tore out of the ground by the roots. The poles
were set up in a circular position, the forked ends meet-
ing and resting against one another overhead, then the
brush-wood was tightly intt laced between the poles,
leaving a small low aperture for the door, and the fab-
ric was effectually thatched with the long grass, the
conical summit being usually crowned either WMth the
enormous ear or a portion of the hide of an elephant.
Such was the bothy which the natives were wont to
build for me when overtaken by storms, or when the
sky looked threatening, during the remainder of that
and all the subsequent seasons that I hunted among
the Bechuaqa tribes. But it often happened, when 1
had lain down for the night with no other roof above
me than the vaulted canopy of heaven, that my placid
slumbers were rudely disturbed by rain falling like a
water-spout on my face. Such events as these were
extremely disagreeable, more especially w^hen it came
down so heavily as to preclude the possibility of main-
taining our usual watch-fires. In weather like this tho
prowling tyrant (ff the forest is ever most active in his
search for prey, and our ears were occasionally greeted
with the deep-toned voices of troops of lions, as, attract-
ed by the smell of our beef, they prowled around our
encampments.

I continued hunting to the eastward of Bamangwato
until the 8d of October, during which time I added four
other noble elephants, besides rhinoceroses and other
animals, to my already satisfactory list of game*

* It 13 about this latitude that the traveler will first meet witli tha
gigantic and castle-like nwana, which is decidedly the most striking and
wonderful tree among the thousaudi which adoi-n the South Afncan

36

ADVENTURES IN SC L'TH AFRICA.

Tlie rains having fallen, the country was already
adorned with a goodly coating of verdant grass, and
my oxen, having done little else than feed and rest
themselves for several months, were now full of spirit
and in fine condition, and rattled along before my heav-
ily-laden wagons, over rugged hills and through the
trackless mazes of the forest, at a rapid and willing
pace, and on the evening of the 4th of October I once
more formed my encampment at Lesausau, in the Ba-
mangwato Mountains, in the neighborhood of Sicomy's
kraal.

Here I was quickly welcomed by Sicomy, who vis-
ited me in company with a numerous body of his tribe.
He expressed himself much gratified at seeing me re-
turn in safety from the dangerous pursuit in which I
had been employed, remarking that he was often anx-
ious about me in my absence, for, if any casualty had

forests. It is chiefly remarkable on account of its extraordinary size,
actually resembling a castle or tower more than a forest-tree. Through-
out the couutiy of Bamangvvato the average circumference of these
trees was from thirty to forty feet ; but on subsequently extending my
researches in a northeasterly direction, throughout the more fertile for-
ests which clothe the boundless tracts through which the fair Limpopo
winds, I daily met with specimens of this extraf)rdinary tree averaging
from sixty to a hundred feet in circumference, and maintaining this
thickness to a height from twenty to thirty feet, when they diverge into
numerous goodly branches, whose general character is abrupt and hori-
zontal, and which seem to terminate with a peculiar suddenness. The
wood of this tree is soft and utterly unserviceable ; the shape of the leaf
!s similar to that of the sycamore-tree, but its texture partakes more of
the fig-leaf; its fruit is a nut, which in size and shape resembles the egg
of the swan.

A remarkable fact, in connection with these trees, is the manner ia
which they are disposed throughout the forest. They are found stand-
ing singly, or in rows, invariably at considerable distances from one
another, as if planted by the hand of man ; and from their wondrous
size and unusual height (for they always tower high above their sur-
"rounding compeers), they convey the idea of being strangers or inter-
lopers on the ground they occupy.

ENCAMP NEAR SICOMy's KRAAI.. 37

befallen me, my king, he said, would be certain to seek
restitution at his hands. His majesty was pleased to
compliment me on my extraordinary success and skill
in hunting, and observed that the medicine of the white
man must indeed be strong.

In the course of the evening he amused me with the
quaintness of his questions, asking me if ray father and
mother were alive, how many brothers and sisters I had,
if the flocks and herds of my king were extremely abund-
ant, and if his subjects were more numerous than his
own. On informing him that our chief was a woman,
he seemed much tickled by the disclosure ; and when
T said that her subjects were as numerous as the lo-
custs, he looked round on his warriors with an evident
grin of disbelief, and then inquired of me if all my coun-
trymen could vanquish the elephants as easily as I did.
This M'as a puzzler : so I replied that I could not say ;
but I knew that the hearts of all my nation were very
strong, like the heart of the lion when his cubs are
small. The whole assembly was greatly moved by this
bright remark, and a general murmur of surprise and
admiration extended through the dusky ranks as each
man repeated to his neighbor the surpassing courage of
my lion-hearted countrymen. Old Mutchuisho under-
stood my gibberish better than any of the rest, and act-
ed in the capacity of interpreter between me and tho
king. Our conversation was maintained partly by
means of signs, my attainments in the Sichuana lan-
guage being as yet but limited. Mutchuisho now in-
timated to me that two friends of Sicomy's, with their
two attendants, wished to accompany mc to the colony
in the capacity of cattle-herds, who promised at the
same time to make themselves generally useful in the
way of collecting fire-wood and carrying venison home

38 ADVF\TURES liN SOLTTH AFRICA.

to the wagons. To this proposal I fortunately agreed,
and the four aspirants came forward, and w^ere duly in-
troduced to me. The names of these four Bechuanas
were Mollyee, Mollyeon, Kapain, and Kuruman : the
two former belonged to the aristocracy, and were old
friends of mine, having often assisted me in the field.
These men agreed to serve me faithfully as far as the
sea and back again to the country of their chief, in con-
sideration of which I promised on my part to reward
them with a cow and a musket each.

Mollyee and Mollyeon were brothers; they were tall,
active-looking savages, with large, bright, sparkling
eyes, and a pleasing cast of features. Kapain was a
short, thick-set, noisy individual, remarkable for his ug-
liness, and was the funniest fellow in all Bamangwato.
Kuruman was a good-natured boy of about sixteen years
of age ; his face was prepossessing, resembling that of
a girl more than the sex to which he professed to be-
long. I entertained Sicomy with stewed meat and cof-
fee, and he and his retinue remained that night in my
encampment. Before retiring to rest he intimated to
me, through Mutchuisho, that he wished to trade with
me on the ensuing day, which I said I should be hap-
py to do until the hour of mid-day, when I would pos-
itively inspan and leave Lesausau. Accordingly, at an
early hour on the morrow sundry fine tusks and some
good specimens of native arms and costume made their
appearance, which I obtained in barter for beads, am-
munition, and other articles. On inquiring of the king
what had become of Isaac, he said that he had long
since returned to Kuruman in company with a son of
"old Seretse," a Bechuana of distinction residing in the
vicinity of Kuruman. This individual, whose name,
being translated, signifies "mwc?," is remarkable for his

THE NATIVES ^.STONISHED. 39

bitterness against the ad\ancement of the Christian re-
ligion and for the number of his progeny. Bidding adieu
to Sicomy at mid-day on the 5th, I continued my march
for Corriebely, which I reached about noon on the fol-
lowing day. I was accompanied, as usual, by a num-
ber of the natives, in the hope of obtaining a supply of
flesh, elephants being reported to have revisited j\las-
souey. Heavy rains had fallen throughout this dis-
trict, and the country now presented an entirely new
appearance, rank young grass having every where
sprung up, and the plains and forests displaying a pro-
fusion of the richest verdure. It was here that I had
concealed a large quantity of lead, in a hole beneath
the ashes of my fire, before recrossing the mountains
of Bamangwato. Proceeding to the spot, I had the sat-
isfaction to observe that the ground appeard to have
been undisturbed, and, returning to the wagons, I com-
menced to unlash from the side of one of these a shovel.
The natives, who always watched my movements with
great attention, at once observed me, and a large party
followed me to my former fire-place. Here, to their
surprise, I began to excavate ; and on beholding the
lead, they seemed utterly astounded, and I could read
very plainly in their faces that, had they known it was
there, they would have saved my oxen the trouble of
transporting it across the sandy deserts between me
and Bakatla. On reaching INIassoucy and examining
the fountain, I sought in vain for the tracks of ele-
phants ; the natives, nevertheless, declared that one or
two herds of these were still to be met with in the dis-
trict, which I inclined to credit ; and this report turned
out to be correct, for the succeeding day I followed and
succeeded in bagging a whole herd of eight bull and cow
elephants, after a most exciting chase.

40 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

I c'lntinued hunting atMassouey till the 12th, when,
bidding a long farewell to the land of elephants, I in-
spanned, and marched npon Lepeby, which I reached
at an early hour on the following day, having traveled
several hours during the night, availing myself of the
bright moonlight. When last I visited this fine fount-
ain the game drank at it in numerous herds, but now
not an animal of any kind came near it, with the ex-
ception of a few rhinoceroses. This I always found to
be the case at the fountains during the summer months,
when the game are very independent of water, owing
to the more abundant moisture contained in the young
grass. In the forenoon I went bird-nesting among the
reeds and rushes which grew around the fountain.
Hundreds of birds resembling the redpole were busy
building their grassy nests, which they ingeniously sus-
pended between the tops of the reeds. In the rushes I
found two nests of the water-hen, containing eggs,
which, along with the nests, exactly corresponded with
those in Scotlanjl. Two beautifully-painted wild geese,
an egret, or white heron, and about twenty teal, orna-
mented the fountain, and were so tame that they per-
mitted me to approach within a few yards of them.

At an early hour on the 16th I trekked for Bootlo-
namy, which I reached at sundown on the same even-
ing, and drew up the wagons under an impenetrable
grove of picturesque mimosas, which were then gayly
decked with a profusion of highly-scented yellow blos-
soms, brightly contrasting with their summer vestment
of delicious green. Here I continued hunting for sev-
eral days, and enjoyed excellent sport, daily securing
several fine specimens of the different varieties of gama
frequenting the district. On one occasion, while hunt-
ing, I started a secretary from off her nest, which was

TERRIFIC THUNDER-STORM. 41

built on the top of a very dense green tree, with thorns
on the fish-hook principle. With much difficulty I cut
my way to the large thorny branch on which the nest
was built, and, to proceed further being impossible,
from the denseness of the thorns, I cut through this
branch with my knife, and by dragging it down I got
hold of the eggs, which were the size and shape of a
turkey's, and the color of a buzzard's egg.

On the forenoon of the 19th we were visited by a
most terrific storm. The thunder was the most appall-
ing I had ever heard, resembling the simultaneous dis-
charge of a thousand pieces of artillery : it burst close
over my head with a report so sudden and tremendous
that I involuntarily trembled, and the sweat ran down
my brow. At other times the thunder rumbled on ev-
ery side, and rolled away with a long-protracted sound,
which had not died before fresh explosions burst above
and around me. The lightning was so vivid that it
pained my eyes ; it seemed so near, that I fancied ev-
ery moment it must strike the wagons, which would
certainly have proved extremely inconvenient, as I had
three hundred pounds of gunpowder stowed in one of
them beneath my bed. About sundown the storm had
passed away, having exquisitely pvirified the atmos
phere, while the grateful earth and fragrant forest emit-
ted a perfume of overpowering sweetness. I then saun-
tered out with my rifle toward where the oxen were
grazing, and, falling in with a herd of brindled gnoos,
I shot a couple of shaggy old fellows, firing right and
left. The storm set in again about 10 P.M. with thun-
der and lightning, which continued throughout the
greater part of the night

X2 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

CHAPTER XIX.

All my Colonial Servants desert me — Pursue them in vain — Both Wng
ons get disabled — Melancholy Anticipations — Cut a Path through the
Forest — A sandy Desert — Cattle dying for Want of Water — Troubles
surmounted — Pallahs and Koodoos — A Lion and Leopard visit the
Camp at Midnight — Another Horse dies of Distemper — We reach
Booby — One of the Axle-trees breaks — The Bukatlas assist me — The
Baggage-wagon upset in a River — The Distemper kills more Horses
— Lions roaring — An'ival at Dr. Livingstone's — March upon Chou-
aney — The Ngotwanl — A Herd of Biitfaloes among the Reeds.

I HAD now arrived at a period of considerable import-
ance in my lonely expedition, an event having occurred
which caused me a world of trouble and anxiety, yet
was nevertheless finally beneficial in its results, as it
taught me what difficulties a man may surmount when
he is pressed by adversity; and it was also the means
of my becoming an accomplished wagon-driver. I al-
lude "to my being abandoned by all my colonial serv-
ants, with the exception of Ruyter, the little Bushman.
I attributed this unmanly and dastardly proceeding
mainly to their despair of succeeding in bringing the
wagons safely across the sandy deserts intervening be-
tween me and the distant missionary station of Bakat-
la, on account of the broken state of one of the axle-
trees of my traveling wagon, Kleinboy in one of his
Jrunken fits having driven it against a tree with such
violence that one of the wooden arms of the fore axle-
tree was cracked right across, so that little now held
the wheel excepting the linch-pin and the iron skein.
I remarked on the 22d that there was something un-
usual on the minds of my colonial followers, for nono

DESERTION OF THE HOTTENTOTS. 43

jf them could look me in the face ; and in the evening
I spoke harshly to them concerning some ground coffee
which I had missed from my canteen.

On the 23d of October I was lying asleep in my
wagon, a little before the -day dawned, when Ruyter
awoke me to report that my four Hottentots had de-
camped during the night. He said that each of them
had taken with him a large bundle of biltongue or sun-
dried meat, and that they had tried hard to prevail on
him to accompany them. This was a rather startling
announcement, for I had barely enough of hands to
perform the work when they were with me, and the
four savages from Bamangwato, like myself, were
quite unaccustomed to the laborious and intricate art
of wagon leading and driving, and the inspanning and
outspanning of oxen. Imagining that the Hottentots
would not persevere in so rash and unwarranted a meas-
ure, and that they would assuredly change their minds
and retrace their steps to their master when they re-
flected on the step they had taken, I did not endeavor
to overtake them, but employed the morning in stow-
ing the w^agons, lashing down pots, spades, axes, &c.,
in their proper places, and overhauling the gear pre-
paratory to marching.

Having breakfasted, I and the little Bushman, as-
sisted by the savages, lassoed, gorted, and yoked twen-
ty-four oxen, placing twelve before each wagon, when
w^e cracked our whips and started from Bootlonamy.
Mollyee and Mollyeon led the teams, and Kapain and
Kuruman followed behind the wagons, driving the
horses and loose oxen. In former days I had acquired
considerable experience in driving tandem and four-in-
hand ; but I had now undertaken a pursuit of a widely
different character. I soon, however, became quite

44 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

" au fait" in the mysteries connected with the driving
of oxen, and learned to inspan and drive my own wag-
ons with nearly the same expedition as before the de-
sertion of the Hottentots.

The vley of Bootlonamy being firm and hard, we rat-
tled along it at our wonted pace ; but in the evening,
as we cleared the vley and entered on the sandy tracts
beyond, the oxen, having discovered that their new dri-
vers could not wield the whips with the rapidity and ex-
ecution of the old, declined to move along the heavy
sand beyond the pace they fancied, often halting of their
own accord. Eventually, in ascending a sandy ridge,
the Bushman's wagon stuck fast in the deep sand, and
in trying to drag it out the oxen broke the " dissel-boom,"
or pole. Finding that the labors we had undertaken
were greater than I had calculated upon, I resolved to
ride on the morrow in pursuit of the runaways ; and ac-
cordingly, at daybreak on the following day, leaving the
wagons and their valuable contents at the mercy of the
savages, I started with the Bushman and a spare horse
to endeavor to overtake them. There was no water
where the wagons stood, so I instructed Mollyeon to
proceed with the cattle in quest of that essential requi-
site. I held along my old wagon-track, where we traced
the footsteps of the Hottentots; and having ridden some
miles, we reached the spot where they had slept, and
where the ashes of their fire still were smoldering. I
followed up their spoor till mid-day, when I accidentally
took up the spoor of a party of Bakalahari, which we
followed in a westerly direction, imaginingthatthe Hot-
tentots were with them. This spoor we eventually lost
in stony ground, and then we rode back to where we
had lost the right spoor, which after some search we
found, and once more held on. Our steeds were now

FRUITLESS SEARCH. 45

fatigued, for we had ridden sharp, and they were faint
with thirst, as we were also ; but we sought in vain
for water in the vleys which had contained it when we
last passed through the country. A little before the sun
went down we reached three small pools of water left
by the recent rains, and here the Hottentots had drunk,
and were at that moment hiding in a bush within a
hundred yards of me, as I discovered on the ensuing day.
I, however, failed to observe them ; and fancying that
they had held on to a larger vley, where I had encamped
on my way to Bamangwato, we proceeded for that place,
and, night setting in, we at length lost our way in the
intricacies of the forest.

Faint, hungry, and thirsty, we now desisted from
our fruitless search, and on looking for my matches, I
found, to my intense mortification, that I had lost them ;
and being on this occasion minus my shooting-belt and
rifle, we spent the night without a fire, thereby incur-
ring great danger of losing the horses and ourselves by
lions. Scarcely had we ofi'-saddled when two huge rhi-
noceroses came up and stood within twenty yards of us,
and would not for a long time be persuaded to depart.
Some time after I observed a dark-looking object prowl-
mg around us, and evidently anxious to cultivate the
acquaintance either of ourselves or the horses. It was
a hyaena. Rising from my comfortless couch, I pelted
him with stones, when he took the hint and made ofi".
The horses were completely done up, and when knee-
haltered would not feed. One of them, on being off-
saddled, lay stretched upon the ground, and after a while,
on endeavoring to walk, repeatedly rolled over on his side.

On thc25tli I cast loose the horses as soon as it was
clear, and ascended to the summit of a pyramidal little
hill beside wliich we had slept, to ascertain from thence

46 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA..

whither I had wandered ; but the view from this hill did
not help to elucidate matters, endless forests stretching
away on every side without a mark to assist my memo-
ry. I now resolved to seek no longer for my ruffianly
Hottentots, but to retrace my spoor to the water I had
discovered on the preceding evening, and halt there for
a day until the horses should sufficiently recover their
strength to carry us back to the wagons. By adhering
to the horses' tracks, I reached the water at an early
hour, and here I discovered the fresh tracks of the Hot-
tentots on the top of our horses' spoor of the preceding
evening. I had, however, resolved not to ride another
yard after them ; I accordingly off-saddled, and remain-
ed there for the remainder of the day. In the vicinity
of the water we discovered the spot where the Hotten-
tots had slept during the night. Although possessed
of Hint and steel, they had not kindled a fire, having
nevertheless collected fuel for that purpose previous to
our arrival on the preceding evening. This, as I after-
ward learned from themselves, was to prevent our dis-
covering their position, in case we had returned that
evening. 1 spent most of the day in endeavoring to
make fire, which I failed to accomplish for want of tin-
der. This was extremely annoying, for I had brought
along with me both tea and coffee, as also a kettle, and
a haunch of springbok.

On the morninsr of the 26th we cast loose our horses,
and proceeded to consume raw meat and water. While
thus breakfasting, a pair of superb roan antelopes ap-
proached the water, advancing within easy range before
they noticed us. We saddled up and rode for the wag-
ons, which we reached in the afternoon, having off-sad-
dled for an hour by the way. I found the wagons as I
had left them, as also the savages, who ha J fortunately

AN UNENVIABLE SITUATION. 47

discovered a small vley of rain water about two miles
to the southward of their position, where they had daily
refreshed themselves and the cattle. My situation was
by no means an enviable one, and my mind was bur-
dened with anxiety. One of the wagons was fast in
deep sand, with the dissel-boom broken, and the fore-
axle of the other was cracked, so that at any moment
it was likely to give way; and if this should happen on
the line of march while crossing the desert and far from
water, I should have had no alternative but to abandon
the wagon to its fate. ^loreover, owing to the indo
lent disposition of the Hottentots, every thing connected
with the gear was broken and out of order, while the
hatchets appeared to have been used in chopping gun-
flints, and all their handles were in similar condition.
I arose at dawn on the morning of the 27th, and,
having cast loose the horses and oxen, rummaged out
my tools, and in two hours I got out the broken dissel-
boom and put in a new one, which I formed from the
stem of a tough mimosa. This being accomplished, I
yoked twelve oxen to the wagon which was sticking in
the sand, but tried in vain to make them drag it out,
for the cunning animals knew that it was fast, and
would not exert themselves to attempt to extricate it.
After inconceivable trouble and repeatedly shifting the
positions of the various oxen in the span, I at length
made a fortunate arrangement of the oxen. The brutes
for once pulled all together, and once more the wagon
was in motion, I then inspanned the other team, and
we reached the water without further trouble. As v/e
neared the water I detected a giraffe browsing within
a quarter of a mile; this was well, for we required
flesh. Commanding silence, I hastily outspanned, and,
having saddled the Old Gray, I rode with Ruyter to

48 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

where we last had seen the " Tootla." Having pro-
ceeded a short distance through the forest, I again dis-
covered him within a hundred yards of me. He prov-
ed to be a young bull, and led me a severe chase over
very heavy ground. Toward the end I thought he was
going to beat me, and I was about to pull up, when
suddenly he lowered his tail, by which I knew that his
race was run. Urging my horse, I was soon alongside
of him, and with* three shots I ended his career. Hav-
ing obtained for the present both flesh and water, my
next look-out was to consider how I was to cross the
sandy desert which lay between me and the kraal of
Booby. It was very evident that I could not return
by the route I had previously held, having already as-
certained that that country to ox-wagons was now im-
passable, all the waters being dry.

On explaining this to my Bamangwato followers,
MoUyeon stated that he had once traversed that coun-
try in a dry season many years before, and that he and
his comrades had obtained water in some deep pits,
which had been excavated by Bakalahari in a rocky
part of the desert, considerably to the eastward of my
former route. He said we should require the greater
part of two days to reach this water, our route thithei
lying across a soft sandy soil, varied in many places by
almost impenetrable forest; he, moreover, seemed a
little doubtful as to whether he should be ab.e to dis-
cover the place, and, when we did, whether the pits
might not prove dry. This was certainly a bright
look-out, more especially as the next water (which he
represented as a perpetual fountain) was two days be-
yond the uncertain pits.

On the 2Sth I was occupied about the wagons all the
day, puttings siuidr) things to rights. ">" had thoughts

T/ISMAL FOnEBODINGS, 49

of trekking on the following day, and could not divest
myself of the most dismal forebodings, for I felt certain
that the heavier wagon would again stick fast, or that
the cracked axle-tree would come in contact with some
tree, and leave me in the desert a hopeless wreck, re-
mote from water or any assistance. I had certainly
good reason to be uneasy. On the 29th I waited till
the sun was up, that the cattle might drink plentifully,
when I immediately inspanned, and commenced my
anxious journey. For the first ten or twelve miles we
proceeded along a hollow, where the soil was in general
tolerably firm; but on leaving this hollow we entered
upon a most impracticable country, the wagons sinking
about four inches in the soft sand. Though I held on,
I had not the slightest hope of getting through it, for
every hundred yards required the utmost exertion both
of ourselves and oxen ; yet I had the best of two days
more of it to expect before I could reach the promised
water. To increase our difficulties, our progress was
presently opposed by an interminable forest, where the
trees stood so close together as often to bar the possi-
bility of the wagons passing between them.

On these occasions it became imperative upon me to
turn pioneer, and in the course of the day I felled with
the ax not less than fifty trees. In this manner I held
on till the sun went down, when I halted in dense for-
est and cast loose the oxen for an hour; after which,
with infinite trouble, I lassoed the two teams and made
them fast on the trek-tow, in their proper places, ready
to inspan at dawn of day. I had also nine horses to
catch and make fast, and none to assist me but the
little Bushman; for the savages were so lazy, awk-
ward, and disobliging, that one Hottentot would havo
assisted me more than the whole pack of them.

Vol. it.— C

50 ADVENTURES IN SOU III AFRICA

On the 30th I inspanncd before it was light, and
again held on, as on the preceding day, through heavy
sand and interminable forest, where it was necessary
to keep the axes in constant operation. In the after-
noon we reached the promised watering-place, but on
springing from the wagon, and running anxiously for-
ward for an inspection of the pits, I had the mortifica-
tion to find that all they contained was a little mud, in
which sundry heterogeneous insects were sprawling.
The Bechuanas, however, signified to me that, by clear-
ing out the pits and digging a little, water would maks
its appearance. Accordingly, having outspanned the
jaded oxen, I unlashed the spades, which were vigor-
ously plied, when the water began very reluctantly to
trickle in from every side. We thus cleared out the
T.nree most likely pits, and in two hours I obtained a
rcry moderate supply of water for each of the oxen,
which I gave them individually out of my large flesh-
pot. My poor horses did not get a drop; and we now
proceeded to inspan, and resume our march beneath a
burning sun of unusual intensity. The sand became,
if possible, worse than ever, and the wagons repeated-
ly stuck fast. We held through a jungle of the most
virulent wait-a-bit thorns, which reduced my wagon-
sails to ribbons ; and when the sun went down I halted
for the night, and cas+ ioo.«^e my wretched oxen for au
hour.

On the 31st my vans \\2re again in motion before
daylight ; and about 4 P.M., to my infinite delight and
great relief, I got clear of the desert, and reached a
strong perennial fountain situated in a finely-wooded
valley on the northern borders of the mountain coun-
try, extending to the southward, with little intermis-
sion, as far as the chain of the Kurrichane rant'e. To-

Gl.t kicked ev an ox. 51

ward the end of the march it was necessary to descend
into a rnggii valley, and cross a very awkward water-
course, in which the baggage-wagon was within a hair-
breadth of being capsized. Ascending from this valley,
we crossed a precipitous ridge, where large disjointed
masses of rock threatened the momentary destruction
of the wagons. As I was yoking one of the oxen, which
had broken his yoke-skey and got out of his place, I re-
ceived from a vicious ox in front a severe kick on the
cap of the knee, which gave me intense pain and laid
me prostrate on the ground. I, however, managed to
drive the wagon to its destination, where, after lying
for a few minutes, the pain increased so much that I
lay panting on my bed. Just as I had ou^-spanned,
and before my knee had stiffened, a herd of zebras ap-
proached the fountain to drink. This was a God-send
at such a moment, our flesh being at an end and the
dogs starving. In torture as I was, I managed to make
a limping stalk toward them, when I obtained a fine
double-shot and brought down a brace of tine old mares.
The following day was the 1st of November; my
knee was much better, and in the afternoon I went out
with Ruyter and shot two koodoos and a pallah. J
shot one of the koodoos from the saddle, as he bounded
past me at a hundred yards. At night, as I lay down,
I heard a lion roar in the vicinity of camp, but soon 1
was asleep. In a few hours I was awoke by an unus-
ud disturbance in the camp, and, raising my head, I
saw the Bechuanas standing close together round the
fire with their faces outward, while they shrieked and
talked with unusual volubility. I guessed at once that
a lion caused the rumpus ; and I was right. The dogs
were barking loud and angrily, and kept rushing back
occasionally to ihc fire, as if pursued by some animal

52 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

The night was pitch dark, so that nothing could be
seen; but Mollyeon told me that a lion and a leopard
were prowling round us, endeavoring to obtain tiie veni-
son of the zebras, which hung in festoons in the trees
beside us; and next moment I heard the voices of both,
for the lion roared and the leopard shrieked wildly as
they sprang after the dogs. At length their boldness
increased ; the lion chased the dogs with angry growls
within twenty yards of where we stood, and the leop-
ard actually sprang into the center of my larder beside
the fire, and was making off with a large fragment of
ribs, when the dogs went gallantly at him. He turned
upon them, and so terribly lacerated two that they soon
after died from their wounds. We now snatched up
large flaming brands from the fire, and, meeting the
lion as he advanced, we sent them flying in his face,
when I fancy he made off. I feared to use my rifle
lest I should shoot the dogs. The horses and oxen, al-
.though much alarmed, did not endeavor to break loose,
being still very much fatigued from the hardships they
had undergone.

On the morning of the 2d I shot a koodoo, which
antelope seemed here to be tolerably abundant ; and
about mid-day, as I sat writing beneath the wagon, I
observed a troop of zebras approaching the fountain,
followed by a string of koodoos, three of which carried
unusually fine horns. While I sat looking at them
through my spy-glass, I directed Ruyter to bring up the
horses, when we saddled the " Gray" and the "Chest-
nut Pony," and rode slowly toward them, till they
started, when we gave them chase. They took right up
the face of a stony ridge, and as they disappeared over
its summit the Bushman was riding within a spear's
length of the finest buck. Before, however. I could gain

ARRIVAL AT BOOBV. 53

the ridge, the " Old Gray" refused to proceed further,
when, dismounting, I resumed the chase on foot, but
failed to fall in with my after-rider, who eventually
brought the koodoo to a stand. Retracing my steps, I
directed my attention to my poor "Old Gray," which
was evidently attacked with the African distemper.
With considerable difficulty I brought him to the camp,
where I instantly bled him, but to no purpose, and in
another hour the " gallant gray" lay down and "stretch-
ed his stiff limbs to rise no more." At night the lion
feasted on him, and when he was full the leopard and
hysenas finished him.

On the morning of the 8d I left this fountain and
held for Booby, which I reached at mid-day on the 5th.
On my way thither we one evening fell in with a large
herd of elands, out of which I captured a first-rate bull.
I was kindly welcomed by Caachy, now the chief of
Booby, the former chief having been blown up in my
absence as already mentioned. Caachy informed me
that my runaway Hottentots had reached his kraal, and
were very much exhausted by their march. He had as-
sisted them with corn, and passed them on to Bakatla.
They informed this chief that I had dismissed them from
my service, having engaged other servants at Baman-
gwato. I remained at Booby till mid-day on the 7th,
and obtained several very fine karosses and other native
curiosities in barter from the tribe. The king suppli-
ed me liberally with boyahva, or native beer, which I
thought most excellent, but found that it possessed a
soporific tendency, inducing me on one occasion to lie
down and sleep for half the day, while the king and his
nobility were waiting to trade with me. A large body
of the natives accompanied me from Booby, some of
them leading pack-oxen, wiiich were sent by Caachy to

64 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

convey the venison of sundry rhinoceroses which I en-
gaged to shoot for him. These men led me toward
Bakatla by a different route from that which I had for-
merly adopted.

Early on the 13th, while taking coffee, I was met by
a party from Bakatla, who had been kindly dispatched
by Dr. Livingstone, the resident missionary, on hear-
ing of my abandonment by my colonial servants. The
party consisted of a Bechuana, named Mabal, belong-
ing to Kuruman (who assisted Dr. Livingstone in teach-
ing the children of the Bakatlas), and. three of the Bak-
atla tribe. These men reached me just at the proper
moment; for, having inspanned, before we had proceed-
ed three hundred yards the damaged axle-tree broke
short across, and the wheel rolling away, the wagon
came down on its side. This was a catastrophe I had
for some time anticipated, and I was only thankful that
it had. been deferred so long. We outspanned, andj
having unloaded the wagon, we put a support under it,
and took out the fore-stell, and I then set about making
a false axle-tree of tough thorn-wood. The vertical sun
was extremely powerful, and both my ankles gave m,e
severe and never-ceasing pain from wounds inflicted by
the cruel wait-a-bits, and inflammation induced by the
unvarying animal diet on which I had so long subsist-
ed. In the afternoon of the following day I got the false
axle-tree fixed in its proper position, and having loaded
up the wagon we were once more ready for a start.

On the 15th we inspanned, and, having passed through
the bold mountain gorge, of Sesetabie, we encamped on
the margin of a periodical river whose precipitous banks
and broad channel of deep soft sand caused me consider-
able apprehensions of difficulties for the morrow.

On the 16th I unlashed my spadss and pickax, and

A WAGON UPSET. 55

worked hard for several hours cutting down the precip-
itous banks of the river and 3onstructing a road for the
wagons to pass; after which we inspanned and took the
stream. I drove my wagon safely through; but, alas'
not so with the baggage-wagon. Twice it stuck fast
in the treacherous sand while crossing the river's bed,
but the sturdy oxen pulled it out, and had dragged it
more than halfway up the almost perpendicular bank,
when the native who led the long team, unraindfnl that
a wagon was behind them, suddenly turned the lead-
ing oxen short toward the river's bank, thus render-
ing it impossible for the driver to steer his after-oxen.
The wagon was dragged off the fine road which I had
made for it, and after quivering for a moment as if loth
to meet its fate, it fell heavily over and rolled down the
bank with a most terrific crash, smashing the fine cap-
ped tent, and sending the ivory and all my highly-val-
ued trophies flying into the bed of the river in a mass
of the most dire confusion.

This was enough to vex any man; but I had now
become so seasoned to adversity that I only laughed at
the capsize as though the accident had happened to a
foe ; and having unyoked the oxen, we commenced car-
rying the heavy ivory and other articles up the bank to
the level ground beyond ; after which we righted the
wagon, and a team of oxen dragged it up the bank. I
then set to work to repair the tent with green boughs,
and before sunset we had again replaced the greater
part of the cargo. As the sun went down " The Cow"
died from the distemper which had carried off my other
two horses. The night set in with thunder, lightning,
and rain ; jackals and hyaenas prowled around us, and
soon found the remains of ray lamented charger, on
which they feasted till the dawn of day.

56 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

The 17th ushered in a lovely morning, and the sky
was beautifully overcast with clouds. When I got
things dry I fniished stowing the wagon, an^ we then
trekked, holding on till the evening, when the axle-tree
which I had made burst, and the linch-pin giving way,
the wheel rolled off, leaving me once more a wreck.
While securing my few remaining horses, I remarked
that a handsome little bay horse, named " Hutton,"
evinced symptoms of the distemper, but I did not bleed
him, as it seemed to be of no avail. Heavy rain con-
tinued falling throughout the night, and next morning
the ground where we had outspanned was a mass of
deep mud. At an early hour all hands were busy in
again unloading the broken wagon, and before night I
had finished another axle-tree and fixed it in its place.
The day throughout Avas dark and gloomy — heav\
clouds hung low on the mountain of the eagles, re-
minding me of the mist I was wont to see in the dis-
tant country of the Gael, and our ears were repeatedly
saluted with the subdued voices of a troop of lions which
were moaning in concert around its base. In the even-
ing the horse called " Hutton" died, and scarcely had
night set in when his doleful coronach was wildly re-
echoed by the shrill voices of a score of jackals, which
the lions hearing soon came to their assistance, and
presently we heard them feasting on his remains.

On the morning of the 19th we resumed our march,
and at a late hour on the evening of the 20th we reach-
ed the missionary station at Bakatla, where I was kind-
ly received by Dr. Livingstone and his amiable lady.
They had been anxious concerning my fate, and enter-
tained great apprehensions for my safety. Mrs. Living-
stone had seen my Hottentots as they passed through
Bakatla, wh.ere they remained only one day ; and that

ARRIVAL AT DR. LIVINGSTONE'S. 57

lady represented them as bearing the appearance of men
who had been guilty of crime. She had endeavored, but
without success, to prevail upon them to rejoin their
master and return to their duty. Dr. Livingstone at
the time was absent on a visit to Sichely, superintend-
ing the erection of a dwelling-house and place of pub-
lic worship at that chief's kraal, named "Chouaney,"
whither he intended shortly to remove, there being an-
other missionary, named Mr. Edwards, already station-
ed at Bakatla, who was then absent on a visit to the
colony. Dr. Livingstone informed me that at present
there was war between the Baquaines, of whom Sich-
ely is chief, and the Bakatlas, and that the latter were
in daily expectation of an attack.

The 23d was Sunday, when Dr. Livingstone showed
me, on comparing notes, that I had lost a day during
my sojourn in the far interior. I attended Divine serv-
ice, and had considerable difficulty to maintain my grav-
ity as sundry members of the congregafion entered the
church clad in the most unique apparel. Some of these
wore extraordinary old hats ornamented with fragments
of women's clothes and ostrich feathers. These fine
hats they were very reluctant to take off, and one man
sat with his beaver on immediately before the minister
until the door-keeper went up to him and ordered him to
remove it. At dinner we had a variety of excellent veg-
etables, the garden producing almost every sort in great
perfection ; the potatoes, in particular, were very fine.
To-day another of my stud, named Yarborough (so called
in honor of a gallant major of the 91st from whom I
purchased him), died of the distemper, and was imme-
diately consumed by the starving curs of the Bakatlas.
Being anxious to visit Sichely and his tribe. Dr. Liv-
ingstone and I resolved to leave Bakatla and march

C2

58 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

upon Chouaney with one of my wagons on the ensuing
day; the doctor's object being to establish peace between
the tv.'o tribes, and mine to enrich myself with ivory
and karosses, and other objects of interest.

On the morning of the 24th I off-loaded the baggage-
wagon, and stowed its contents in Dr. Livingstone's
premises, after which the doctor and I started for Chou-
aney, which bore a little to the east of north. Our road
lay through the most perfect country. On clearing the
romantic valley of Bakatla, we descended into another
beautiful valley, through which meandered the crystal
waters of the Ngotwani, an interesting stream, which,
flowing in a northeasterly direction, falls into the Lim-
popo about sixty miles below its junction with the Ma-
riqua. The Ngotwani contains several varieties offish,
which are of good flavor, and afford the angler steady
average sport both with bait and fly. After following
some distance along the finely-wooded banks of the
Ngotwani, and'having twice crossed its stream, we en-
tered upon an extensive open tract of country adorned
with a carpet of the most luxuriant herbage. This inter-
esting plain was beautifully wooded toward the mount-
ain ranges which bound it on every side, and the Ngot-
wani twined in a serpentine course along the middle of
it, forming in one part an extensive vley or marsh about
four miles long and a quarter of a mile in breadth.
This vley was now beautiful with a dense crop of wav-
ing green reeds, averaging about fourteen feet in height,
and forming a favorite resort of buffaloes and their in-
variable attendants the lions. Dr. Livingstone told me
that a party of Baquaines were to leave Chouaney on
the ensuing day to visit this vley, for the purpose of
cutting a supply of the long rank reeds with which to
thatch his new church and dwelling-house ; and he said

A HERD OF BUFFALOES. 59

that he should wish me, if opportanity presented itself,
to shoot some large game on which these men might
feed.

We were marching quietly along, and were nearly
opposite the center of the reeds, when, on emerging
from a grove of thorny mokala-trees, casting our eyes
to the right, we suddenly beheld a numerous herd of
buffaloes grazing on the open plain between us and the
vley. Their dark imposing squadrons extended over a
great space of ground, and we reckoned that there might
have been between six and eight hundred of them. I
immediately saddled " Sunday," and rode toward them.
As I drew near, they stood gazing at me for a minute,
and then, panic-stricken, the whole herd started ofi" to-
gether, making for the nearest wood. Pressing my
horse, I was soon ahead of them, and by shouting I
turned them right about, when they thundered along
in a compressed mass, and held for the reeds. Their
amazing numbers greatly impeded their progress, and
I had no difficulty in keeping alongside of them. I
kept on their right flank to enable me more convenient-
ly to fire, and on one occasion, on my riding very near
the foremost of the herd, a large division of those be-
hind me suddenly extended to the right and increased
their pace, and, on looking over my shoulder, I found
myself almost surrounded by their helmeted squadrons.
As I galloped along I endeavored to select the finest
head, but among so many it was no easy matter to
make a choice, and as soon as I selected one he disap-
peared among the ranks of his companions. At length,
riding at the gallop, I let fly right and left into tho
herd, and next moment they had gained the margin
of the lofty reeds. Here the whole herd suddenly
halted and faced about with the regularity and preci-

60 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

sion of a regiment of cavalry, when having overhauled
me for half a minute, they charged headlong into the
soft muddy vley, and in another moment they were hid-
den from my view. I marked the reeds bowing before
them far on my right and left as they splashed and
struggled through the marshy vley, and presently they
gained the other side, when, emerging from the reeds,
they held across the open plain, steering for their
strongholds in the woods beyond. As the clouds oi
dust behind me cleared away, I looked back and beheld
a fine old cow stagger for a moment and then fall dead,
and near her stood a wounded calf, whose mother had
remained beside it, being loth to leave her offspring.

I now returned to Dr. Livingstone, when we brought
up the wagon for the fallen buffaloes, and halted for the
night. Just as woihad outspanned, a blue wildebeest,
having observed the oxen, and taking them for buffa-
loes, fearlessly approached the wagon, when, advancing
under cover of one of the oxen, I bowled him over with
my rifle. Early on the following morning the reed-
cutters from Chouaney hove in sight, and were not a
little gratified to find so bountiful a supply of their fa-
vorite " niama," or flesh, awaiting their arrival. The
afternoon was cold and rainy, and at a late hour we
outspanned at Chouaney, where we were immediately
welcomed by a messenger from Sichely, who expressed
himself highly gratified at our arrival, and promised to
come and breakfast with me next mornino:.

sichely's kraal. si

CHAPTER XX.

Arrive at Sichely's Kraal — Description of that Chief — His Wives — The
Rain-makers — My Gun Medicine — Bakatla — A Kraal stnick by
Lightning — Reach Mr. Moffat's Station at Kuruinau — Daring Rob-
beries of the Bushmen — Campbellsdorp — Discover my runaway Hot-
tentots— We cross the Vaal — The Inmates of a Farm terrified by my
wild Appearance — Colesberg and Grahamstowu — English Hounds in
Afi-ica.

At an early hour on the 26th of November Sichely
presented himself with a large retinue. The appear
ance of this chief was prepossessing, and his manner
was civil and engaging ; his stature was about five feet
ten inches, and in his person he inclined to corpulency
His dress consisted of a handsome leopard-skin kaross
and on his arms and legs, which were stout and well
turned, he wore a profusion of brass and copper orna-
ments manufactured by tribes residing a long way to
the eastward. In the forenoon I accompanied Sichely
to his kraal, situated in the center of the town, and
alongside of it stood respectively the kraals of his wives,
which were five in number. These kraals were neatly
built, and were of a circular form, the walls and floors
being smoothly plastered with a composition of clay
and cow-dung, and secured from the weather by a firm
and well-constructed thatch of rank dry grass. Each
kraal was surroxmded by an area inclosed with a strong
impenetrable fence six feet in height. The town was
built on a gentle slope on the northern side of a broad
extensive strath, throughout the whole extent of which
lay wide fields and gardens inclosed with hedges of the
wait-a-bits.

62 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

A short time previous to my arrival, a rumor hav-
ing reache:! Sichely that he was likely to be attacked
by the emigrant Boers, he suddenly resolved to secure
his city with a wall of stones, which he at once com-
menced erecting. It was now completed, entirely sur-
rounding the town, with loop-holes at intervals all along
through which to play upon the advancing enemy with
the muskets which he had resolved to purchase from
hunters and traders like myself.

I was duly introduced to the five* queens, each of
whose wigwams I visited in succession. These ladies
were of goodly stature and comely in their appearance ;
they all possessed a choice assortment of very fine ka-
rosses of various descriptions, and their persons were
adorned with a profusion of ornaments of beads and
brass and copper wire. Sichely professed and was be-
lieved by his tribe to be a skillful rain-maker, viz., one
having the power of creating rain when required for the
fields and gardens. The rain-maker's art is a regular
profession among the Bechuanas, and the individuals
who practice it are much esteemed and highly ven-
erated among their fellow-men. They are supposed to
work by supernatural agency; and acting probably on
the general principle that a prophet is not without hon-
or save in his own country, they invariably practice
their arts among tribes remote from their own partic-
ular districts. Their birth and original place of resi-
dence are always involved in mystery, and they pretend
to have been suddenly created in some lonely cave, or
on the summit of a mountain, from which they came
in a state of manhood without undergoing the usual
ordeal of birth. Some of these rain- makers attain to
much higher reputation than their fellow-necroman-
cers: an illustrious character of this description is much

THE RAIN-MAKERS. 63

sought after, and is often sent for from an amazing dis-
tance by a chief on whose dominions the periodical thun-
der-storms (which are often very partial) have failed to
descend.

The modes in which they propitiate the clouds are
various. The one most commonly practiced is by col-
lecting a few leaves of each individual variety of tree
in the forest, which they allow to simmer in large pots
over a slow fire, while a sheep is killed by pricking it
in the heart with a "lemue" or long sewing-needle,
while the rain-maker is employed in performing a va-
riety of absurd incantations. The steam arising from
the simmering leaves is supposed to reach and propi-
tiate the clouds, and the remainder of the day is spent
in dances, which are joined in by all the tribe and kept
up till midnight, being accompanied with songs having
a long-continued chorus, in which all join, and the bur-
den of which is the power and praises of the rain-mak-
er. It often, ho.wever, happens that the relentless clouds
decline attending to the solicitations of the rain-maker,
and the fields of young corn become parched and witlv.
ered. Other schemes are then resorted to. A number
of the young men sally forth, and, forming an extens-
ive circle, they inclose the rocky face of some mount-
ain-side in which the rock-loving klipspringer is likely
to be met with, when, by gradually contracting their
circle like our Highlanders of old, they generally man-
age to catch alive sundry klipspringers, whose voices
are supposed to attract rain. The unfortunate little
antelopes thus captured are paraded round the kraal,
while the rain-maker, by pinching and tormenting
them, induces them to scream. But as it often hap-
pens that these and all his other machinations prove
unavailing, the rain-maker is at times obliged event-

G4 ADVENTURES IN SCUTH AFRICA.

ually to make a moonlight flitting and cut and run for
it, when the services of another of the fraternity are
courted.

When the rain-makers fail to fulfill their promises,
they always ascribe their want of success to the pres-
ence of some mysterious agency which has destroyed
the effect of their otherwise infallible nostrums. One
of these anti-rain-making articles is ivory, which is be-
lieved to have great influence in driving away rain, in
consequence of which, in the summer season, they pro-
duce it only as tlie sun goes down, at which time it is
brought for the trader's inspection carefully wrapped
up in a kaross. I remember on one occasion incurring
the censure of a whole tribe, who firmly believed me to
have frightened the rain from their dominions by ex-
posing a quantity of ivory at noon-day ; and on another
occasion the chief of a certain tribe commanded a mis-
sionary with whom I am acquainted to remove all the
rafters from the roof of his house, these having been
pointed out by the rain-maker as obstructing the suc-
cess of his incantations.

The Griquas, taking advantage of the superstitions
of the Bechuanas, often practice on their credulity,
and, a short time before I visited Sichely, a party of
Griquas who were hunting in his territory had obtained
from him several valuable karosses in barter for a lit-
tle sulphur, which they represented as a most effectual
medicine for guns, having assured Sichely that by rub-
bing a small quantity on their hands before proceeding
to the field they would assuredly obtain the animal they
hunted.

It happened in the course of my converse with the
chief that the subject turned on ball practice, when,
probably relying on the power of his medicine, the king

BALL PRACTICE AND GUN MEDICINE. 65

challenged me to shoot against him for a considerable
wager, stipulating at the same time that his three
brothers were to be permitted to assist him in the com-
petition. The king staked a couple of valuable ka-
rosses against a large measure filled with my gunpow-
der, and we then at once proceeded to the wagon, Vv-here
the match was to come off, followed by a number of
the tribe. While Sichely was loading his gun, I re-
paired to the fore-chest of the wagon, where, observing
that I was watched by several of the natives, I pro-
ceeded to rub my hands with sulphur, which was in-
stantly reported to the chief, who directly joined me,
and, clapping me on the back, entreated me to give
him a little of my medicine for his gun, which I of
course told him he must purchase. Our target being
set up, we commenced firing ; it was a small piece of
wood six inches long by four in breadth, and was placed
on the stump of a tree at the distance of one hundred
paces. Sichely fired the first shot, and very naturally
missed it, upon Avhich I let fly and split it through the
middle. It was then set up again, when Sichely and
his brothers continued firing, without once touching it,
till night setting in put an end to their proceedings.
This, of course, was solely attributed by all present to
the power of the medicine I had used.

When Dr. Livingstone was informed of the circum-
stance he was very much shocked, declaring that in fu-
ture the natives would fail to believe him when he de-
nounced supernatural agency, having now seen it prac-
ticed by his own countryman. I obtained several very
fine karosses, as also ivory, ostrich feathers, and sundry
interesting curiosities, in barter from Sichely and his
tribe ; and at noon on the 27th we took leave of Sichely
and started for Bakatla. In the evenino: of the follow-

66 .VDVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ing day I lost another horse of the distemper : it ^yas
" The Immense Brute ;" and next morning the chest-
nut pony also died. About midnight an immense herd
of buffaloes came feeding slowly toward us, and, imag-
ining our oxen to belong to their own party, they con-
tinued to advance until we were actually surrounded
by them. I then arose in my sleep, and, having re-
marked in Sichuana to the natives that the buffaloes
were very good, I once more lay down, utterly uncon-
scious of what I had done or spoken.

On the afternoon of the 29th we outspanned at Bak-
atla. A party of Baralongs were then on a visit to
Mosielely on a trading excursion for skins for the manu-
facture of karosses. The head-quarters of these men
was situated to the westward of Motito, on the borders
of the great Kalahari desert. Night set in with a ter-
rific thunder-storm, which prevailed for several hours:
the lightning was most painful to the eyes, and deafen-
ing peals of thunder continually burst above and around
us. From the proximity of the explosions, we enter-
tained considerable fears for the safety of the natives in
the town, for the lightning appeared repeatedly to strike
in that direction ; and when the storm had subsided, a
messenger from the king came down to the mission-
ary's dwelling-house to report that the kraal occupied
by the six strangers had been struck by the electric
fluid, and that one of them was killed on the spot, and
the other five were more or less affected by the shock.
Dr. Livingstone informed me that this melancholy event
would entail great alarm and uneasiness upon Mosiele-
ly, since all the tribes would blame him for the accident.

The following day was Sunday, and in the forenoon
Dr. Livingstone and I visited Mosielely, and inspected
the kraal that had been struck by lightning. We found

MAKE A NEW AXLE-TREE. 67

the natives engaged in the most absurd idolatrous rites
to cleanse the kraal and the survivors from the elFects
of the electricity. Unlike the. Romans of old, these five
individuals did not consider tliemselves honored by the
partiality which the lightning had evinced for them ;
huddled together, we found them lying speechless and
terrified upon the ground, their hearts having died
within them. On the 1st of December, with Dr. Liv-
ingstone's kind assistance, I commenced making a new
axle-tree for the wagon, and by the evening of that day
week we had completed a good, substantial axle-tree
of seasoned hard wood, mounted with iron skeins, and
secured it in its place. The greatest difficulty we en-
countered in the accomplishment of our work was in
welding the iron skeins and fixing them in their proper
places. During my stay at Bakatla I traded extensive-
ly with the natives, and obtained from them a number
of karosses and various curiosities and articles of inter-
est. It was the heat of summer, and the sun at noon
was extremely overpowering ; the atmosphere, how-
ever, was occasionally refreshed by thunder-storms, ac-
companied with grateful showers of rain, which, oi
course, was attributed to the power of the rain-maker,
and the vale rang nightly with loud and joyous songs,
re-echoing his praises in a prolonged chorus. Before
leaving Bakatla my horse " Sunday" died of the dis-
temper, which reduced my stud from ten to two ; and,
before dismissing this subject, I may mention that I
managed to save these two from the distemper, and
succeeded in bringing them back to the colony, by pre-
venting thein from eating grass and by keeping them
covered at night with blankets.

On the 11th I took leave of my kind host Dr. Living
stone, and, after a steady march of many days, on the

68 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

2(1 of January I reached Kuruman, where I was enter-
tained by Mr. Moffat with his usual kindness and hos-
pitahty. The following day was Sunday, when I at-
tended Divine service in the large church morning and
evening, and saw sixteen men and women who had
embraced the Christian fai^h baptized by Mr. Moffat.
It was now the fruit season, and the trees in the gar-
dens of the missionaries were groaning under a burden
of the most delicious peaches, figs, and apples. The
vines bore goodly clusters of grapes, but these had not
yet ripened. My runaway Hottentots had passed
through Kuruman some time previous to my arrival,
and it was reported that disease had overtaken them at
the missionary station of Campbellsdorp, where they
were now all four stretched upon a bed of sickness, and
in a state of the most abject want and misery. Isaac
had likewise made his appearance in due course, and
he came boldly forward to claim his wages, which I
honestly paid him. I left in Mr. Moffat's kind keeping
one of the wagons with its contents (whicii we stowed
away in a room obligingly lent me by Mr. MoHat for
the purpose), and also the whole of my oxen, with the
exception of one span, with which, on the evening of
the 7th, I set out for Koning, which I reached at an
early hour on the following morning, having marched
during the greater portion of the night.

Leaving Koning on the afternoon of the 8th, I re-
sumed my march for Daniel's-kuil. Between Koning
and Daniel's-kuil occur two interesting caves, lonw
famous as affording a residence and protection to hordes
of marauding Bushmen. The larger of these caves is
situated on the west side of the wagon-track ; it is of
great size, and contains a perpetual fountain of delicious
water, and its sides have been adorned by its Lillipu-

CAVES OF THE BUSHMEN. 69

tian inhabitants with correct likenesses of most of the
game quadrupeds of Africa, as also unicorns, which of
course they never saw, and must therefore have heard
spoken of by other men. From this cave the Bushmen
were wont to sally forth not very long since, and lift
fat cattle from the sleek herds of their more industrious
neighbors, the Griquas and Bechuanas. Returning
with these cattle, their custom was to drive them all
into the cave, whence, being v/ell supplied with water,
they did not again proceed until the flesh was either
rotten or consumed. It was in vain that the exasper-
ated owners of the cattle followed on their traces to the
Bushman-cave, for here they well knew it was mad-
ness to follow further, as inevitable death would be the
result, by the poisoned arrows of their subtle foes within.
At length the Bushmen became so frequent and daring
in their attacks, that a number of the Bechuanas held
" a great talk" on the subject (as they say in America),
and ended by resolving to attack the Bushmen, and ac-
complish their destruction at whatever cost.

Accordingly, when the next robbery was committed,
the Bechuanas marched upon the Bushman-cave, armed
with large oval shields and battle-axes ; and, entering
the cave, they steadily advanced under cover of their
shields, while the Bushmen's arrows rattled thick upon
them like a storm of hail. The Bechuanas thus con-
tinued to advance until they came to close quarters,
when they cut them down with their battle-axes. The
other cave is situated to the eastward of the wagon-
track ; here, on a similar occasion, fire was made use
of to smoke out the Bushmen, when those who escaped
death by suffocation fell l)y the battle-axes and assagais
of their foes without.

When driven to extremity the Bushtnen are extreme-

70 ADVENTURES T»J SOUTH AFRICA.

ly plucky, and show fight to the last. In the year 1847,
a Bechuana chief, named Assyabona, who is nearly re-
lated to Mahura, dispatched a strong party of his tribe,
armed with guns and assagais, to accomplish the de-
struction of a strong horde of wild Bushmen, whose
robberies had become so daring and extensive that they
were the terror of all who dwelt a hundred miles around
them. On this occasion a great number of Bushmen
were destroyed, having been overtaken in open ground.
One determined fellow, having hastily collected several
of the quivers of his dying comrades, which were full
of poisoned arrows, ensconced himself within three large
stones, from which position he for a long time defied
the whole hostile array of Bechuanas, shooting two of
them dead on the spot, and wounding a number of
others. Though continuing gallantly to defend himself,
he seemed aware that he could not possibly escape;
and while peppering at the Bechuanas and upbraiding
them with cowardice, he called out to them that, if
they had not killed his brother (who lay dead beside
him, and who was a famous marksman among his fel-
lows), it would have gone hard with them that day.
He was eventually finished with a shot in the forehead
by a son of Mahura's, chief of the Batlapis, as he was
in the act of discharging one of his diminutive yet
deadly shafts.

On the 10th I marched from Daniel's-kuil, and early
on the 12th I encamped at Campbellsdorp, where I
found Mr. Bartlett and Captain Cornelius Kok in great
force. Here I at length overtook my runaway Hotten-
tots. Sickness and starvation had done their work upon
them, and they were so altered in their appearance that
I scarcely knew them. They were now acting as serv-
ants to the Griquas who had nursed them in their ill-

A DUTCH SWINDLER. 71

nesS) and they were working hard to earn their bread.
On inquiring of thera why they liad forsaken me, they
said that they had started in a rash and thoughtless
moment, and that, although they almost immediately
repented the step they had taken, fear and shame pre-
vented them from returning to their duty. Commiser-
ating their condition, I presented them with the amount
of their wages during the time they had remained with
me, and, being now quite independent of their services,
I allowed them to remain with the masters they had
chosen. I here met an extremely plausible individual,
a Dutchman, from the Bo-land or Cape district, who
was got up in his rig at considerable expense. This
fellow was swindling the Griquas right. and left, pur-
chasing from thera all their best cattle at extravagant
prices, and settling for them with paper notes, which
naturally were forged. He represented himself as being
one of a wealthy firm in Cape Town, and stated that
two of his partners were then purchasing cattle among
the Boers to the eastward, from whom they had already
collected two thousand head; which cool assertion the
Griquas were silly enough to believe, and he left their
country for the Bo-land with a large drove of fat oxen.
Eventually, however, he was brought to justice, and I
afterward heard of his being safely quartered in the jail
of Beaufort.

At a late hour on the 13th I outspanned my wag-
ons on the fragrant bank of the lovely Vaal River by
clear moonlight, and on the morrow, the water being
then fortunately low, I crossed the river with little dif-
ficulty, and on the 20th I took the drift of the Great
Orange River, but with very faint hopes that my worn-
out oxen would succeed in draggnig me through its
ti 'acherous sands, more especially since two Boers who

72 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

had crossed an hour previous had deemed it necessary
to inspan sixteen tearing, well-conditioned oxen into
their light wagons. I was right in my conjecture, for
with infinite flogging and shouting I got the wagon half
way through, when it stuck fast, and no efforts could
prevail upon the oxen to move it a yard further. A
Griqua offered to lend me on hire a fresh span of able-
bodied oxen, when, with the help of these and some of
my best, I got safely through, and once more encamped
within her majesty's dominions. While the wagon
was sticking in the middle of the river, a Boer took the
drift from the opposite side with a light new wagon and
twelve superb oxen, which bore him through in gallant
style. Resuming my march for Colesberg, I trekked
on till near midnight, when I lost my way in the dark.
The country here was parched and arid, not a blade of
grass for the weary oxen, but hopeless sterility stretch-
ed far around.

On the 21st I left the Bushman to bring on the wag-
on, while I walked ahead, under a most terrific sun, to
the farm where I had purchased Prince and Bonteberg
while eyi route to the far interior. My costume con-
sisted of a dilapidated wide-awake hat, which had run
the gauntlet with many a grove of wait-a-bits, a dusty-
looking ragged shirt, and a pair of still more ragged-
looking canvas trowsers, which were, moreover, ampu-
tated above the knee, while my face was adorned with
a shaggy red beard, which toid ensemble imparted to
me the appearance of one escaped from Bedlam. As
I drew near the farm, its inmates took fright at my
wild appearance, and two of the Boers, timidly pro-
jecting their heads from the half-closed door, loudly
shouted to me to lay down my gun. I, however, pre-
tended not to understand, and, ad='ancing boldly, I wish-

ARRIVAL AT COLESBERG GRAHAMSTOWN. 73

ed them good morning. One of these was the owner
of the farm, and the man from v/hom I had bought the
dogs, yet nevertheless he failed to recognize me. He
still appeared to be much alarmed, and evidently looked
upon me as a dangerous character ; but, commiserating
the transparent texture of my continuations, he offered
to lend me a pair of leather "crackers." Declining the
proffered apparel; J entered the house without ceremo-
ny, and having come to an anchor I requested some
milk. Here I was immediately recognized by the chil-
dren as "de carle wha heb vor Bonteberg ha-quoch,"
viz., the man that bought Bonteberg.

On the 26th I marched at dawn of day, and in four
hours I entered the village of Colesberg, where I found
my old friends, the 91st, replaced by a detachment of
the 45th. My first move was to visit the post-office,
where I was very much disappointed to find no letters
awaiting my arrival. Having off-loaded my wagon, I
handed it over to Mr. Arnott, the resident blacksmith,
to undergo repairs, of which it stood much in need.
My Bechuana followers were extremely struck with
the size and appearance of Colesberg, and the move-
ments of the military elicited their unfeigned delight
and approbation. On the 28th the villagq^f Colesberg
was enlightened with the presence of Mr. Kleinboy,
who arrived with wagons from Kuruman. Having
sought me out, he declared himself thoroughly penitent
for all his former misdemeanors, and, expressing a wish
again to join the service, I re-enlisted him.

On the 1st of February I left Colesberg, and reached
Grahamstown on the forenoon of the 22d, when I took
up my residence with Captain Hogg, of the 7th Dra-
goon Guards, in my old quarters at the barracks of the
Cape Mounted Rifles. The officers of the 7th had

Vol. II.— D

74 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

brought out with them a pack of fox-hounds, which
while they lasted, afforded excellent sport, but, unfor-
tunately, the climate of Southern Africa, especially near
the coast, is so very unfavorable for well-bred English
dogs, that, although no trouble nor expense was spared
in the management of these hounds, and fresh drafts
were constantly exported from England, and litters of
pups carefully reared in the colony, the pack neverthe-
less had considerably diminished. These hounds were
under the especial surveillance of Captain Hogg, who
hunted them in a manner which evinced his consum-
mate skill and judgment in the manly and ennobling
pursuit of the chase.

CHAPTER XXI.

Bet out again for the Far Interior — Fort Beaufort — Purchnse fresh
Steeds and Oxen — My old Servant Carolltis rejoins me — Elephant
Fountain once more — Hunt Elephants — Corriebely — Obliged to act
very decidedly with Sicomy — Horses and Oxen taken in Pits — Two
Dogs killed by a Leopard — A File of Bakalahari Women carrying
Water to the J)esert — A sleeping Rhinoceros shot. — Hunting in the
Neighborhood of Lotlokane and Letlocbee — The Natives kill an F,le-
pliant — A grim Lion slain — Rheumatic Fever attacks me — Leave
Bamangwato Country — The Game disturbed by Natives — Soobie—
Watch nightly for Game from a Place of Ambush — Vanquish a noble
Lioness.

I CONTINUED in Grahamstown until the 7th day of
March, when I set out once more on my weary journey
for the distant forests of the far interior. Before leav-
ing the town I settled my accounts with the merchants
from whom I had obtained supplies, and who evidently
seemed to consider my returning to the colony as a very

PURCHASES. 75

doubtful event. I engaged a discharged soldier of the
91st, named George Martin, in the capacity of ^head
servant. This man hailed frcrn Haddington, and bore
an excellent character on leaving the regiment. He
was accustomed to the charge of horses, in which he
took a great interest. My most important purcliases
in the sporting department consisted of a valuable dou-
ble-barreled rifle, with spare shot-barrels by Westley
Richards, which I obtained from Captain Hogg, and
two right good steeds, one of which was a very superior
coal-black gelding, which I purchased of Captain Wal-
pole, of the Engineers, for d£20, which was considerably
below its value. I named this horse Black Jack ; in
paces and disposition he very much resembled my la-
mented Colesberg, and he was altogether one of the
finest horses I ever mounted. His end was sudden and
severe ; for on a subsequent expedition, along with an-
other of ray favorite horses, he was torn to pieces and
consumed by a troop of ruthless lions. The other horse
which I purchased was a gray; and as it is probable
that this horse may be introduced in future pages, un-
der the designation of the "Old Gray," I trust the read-
er will rwit be confounded with the idea of the resur-
rection of the original "Old Gray."

On the morning of the 9th I reached Fort Beaufort,
when I encamped at the mess-house of the 7th. I con-
tinued there until the morning of the loth, when I re-
sumed my march for the interior. In Fort Beaufort 1
purcliased four right good horses from the officers of the
garrison : one of these was a jet black steed, and was
named by his late master Schwartland. This horse
was one of the finest shooting-horses in Southern Af-
rica, and understood his work so well that he seemed
to follow the game with all the eagerness of a grey-

76 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

hound, and yet he would suddenly halt in full career
when I wished to fire, if I merely placed my hand upon
his neck. From his back I subsequently shot many ele-
phants and other game, and his name will often appear
in after pages. At the farm of Messrs. Nelson and
Blane I purchased two more horses, which I called
Brown Jock and Mazeppa, and also a span of oxen and
some milch cows.

On the 2d of April I entered the village of Colesberg,
where I was actively employed in making final prepa-
rations for my distant campaign until the 9th. I en-
gaged two Hottentot servants named Booi and Klein-
feldt, the latter individual being one of those who had
forsaken my banner at Bootlonamy, and I purchased
two more valuable steeds, which increased my stud to
ten very superior young horses. I also purchased a
number of rough, long-legged serviceable dogs, of a va-
riety of breeds, which, with several other ragged-look-
ing tykes that I subsequently purchased from Boers
along the line of march, increased my kennel to about
twenty business-like dogs. At sunrise on the 9th we
marched out of the village and held on until we reach-
ed the Orange River at Boata's Drift, where we out-
spanned beneath the shade of a grove of willows. Hav-
ing crossed the river on horseback, it proved too deep
to take the wagons over, but I had the consolation to
remark that the waters were on the ebb, and by the
forenoon of the following day they had so far subsided
that I was enabled to cross the great river without wet-
ting my cargo. The ascension of the opposite side
proved extremely severe, being an almost perpendicular
bank of soft sand, and I was obliged to relieve the wag-
on of half its load before the oxen could drag it to the
more practicable road beyond.

HERD OF ELEPHANTS. 77

I was now all anxiety to reach my Fountain of Ele
phants, and pushed on with all speed for Massouey. On
the 15th, just as I had reached the Bastard kraal of
Rhama, I fell in with ray old servant CaroUus, who
had absconded from me at Bootlonamy. He was in
company with the wagons belonging to Mr. David
Hume, the trader, on their return to the colony, but,
meeting with his old companions Kleinfeldt and Klein-
boy, he resolved to turn about and re-enter my service,
which I was not sorry for, as I was short of hands for
the distant expedition I was about to make. I also fell
in with Captain Arkwright and Mr. Christie, who were
proceeding up the country on a similar expedition to
my own.

On the 16th of May I halted at Chouaney, at the
residence of Dr. Livingstone, who told me that one or
two troops of elephants had been frequenting the dis-
trict. With one of- these I fell in on the 20th, when I
had an opportunity of testing the sportsmanlike qual-
ities of my new servant Martin. The troop consisted
of nine bull elephants, the finest of which I shot, but
Martin, after selecting the poorest of the lot, ultimate-
ly lost him. We now pressed on as rapidly as possi-
ble for my favorite fountain Massouey, which we at
length reached on the 29th.

I felt sincere pleasure in revisiting this very inter-
esting spot. I found it well frequented by the ele-
phants. Two troops of cows and three old bulls had
drunk there on the preceding night. When the wag-
ons came up to my old halting-place, I took a hasty
breakfast, and then started on the spoor of an enormous
old bull. After following him north for about six miles,
we lost him in the spoor of a troop of cows; I accord-
ingly followed the spoor of the cows, and soon came up

78 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

with them. The troop consisted in all of about ten,
but there were only three full-grown cows in the troop;
each of these three, unluckily, went off in different di-
rections, I rode within twenty yards of the best, and,
halting, put two balls close behind her shoulder, and,
calling to Martin to finish her, galloped after the sec-
ond best. I soon got a view of her, and in three min-
utes had turned her head toward camp, and presently
rolled her over with about six shots. Martin and the
Bushman not appearing when two hours had elapsed,
I rode to camp, where, to my astonishment, I found
my servant, who had actually lost my elephant through
the most inexcusable want of pluck. I was very much
annoyed, and regretted having attacked the troop at all.

At dawn of day MoUyeon and I walked to the fount-
ain to seek for elephants' spoor. A troop of cows, sev-
eral small bulls, and two well-grown bulls, had drunk
during the night, besides an immense number of rhi-
noceroses, perhaps twenty. I made a hasty breakfast,
and then took up the spoor of the two best bulls, with
one after-rider. The spoor led nearly southeast. Aft-
er following it for about six miles, we found ourselves
in an elevated part of the forest, which commanded a
fine view of the mountains to the east, and here Mol-
lyee climbed to the summit of a sandal-wood tree to
try if he could see the elephants. He could not see
those we were spooring ; but he saw three other bull
elephants, about three parts grown, feeding slowly
along, steering about north ; after a short and danger-
ous conflict, I slew the best with five bullets.

We then followed up the spoor of one of our first ele-
phants, which had now taken a northerly course. Aft-
er following it up very sharply for about five miles
through very open CDuntry, we reached some denso

HERD OF BULL ELEPHANTS 79

Wait-a-bit cover, where we discovered our friend hiding
himself within twenty yards of us. He took away at
once through the thickest of the cover, and on my ap-
proaching for a shot he made the most terrific charge
after me, sending kirge thorny trees flying like grass
before him. When he halted after this charge, I sent
a ball through his ribs, and he then made clean away,
and got into better country. Here I fought with him
for about an hour, and gave him sixteen shots from the
saddle. My horse was extremely troublesome, and in-
variably destroyed the correctness of my aim ; the ele-
phant was fierce and active, and made repeated charges
with very destructive intentions ; at length he turned
and regained the dense thorny cover, in which I lost
him.

Oti the morning of June 1st, before the sun rose,
ISIolIyeon and I walked to the fountain to see if ele-
phants had drunk. Ten bull elephants had been there,
and had all gone off together, holding a .southeasterly
course; this was glorious. I started on the spoor with
five natives, and Kleinfeldt as after-rider on Dread-
naught. I took eight of my dogs, all led in strings,
and rode Schwartland, my best shooting-horse. After
following the spoor for about five miles, we found our-
selves to leeward of the elephant I had shot on Satur-
day, and here the elephants had smelled the blood,
and started off in great fear, going clean away through
open country, steering one point west of south. They
got into an old elephant foot-path, and held steadily on
for many miles, not halting to break one branch or to
})low the ground. The leading native said he did not
expect to see them, and I was certainly of the same
opinion. At length they got into a thickly-wooded
part of the country, and although they were still hold-

feO ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ing clean away up wind, they had occasionally hnlte*
to feed. Here I started an oryx. We presently reach-
ed the border of a very wide open country, where the
spoor took a turn to the east. We proceeded a fe\r
hundred yards further, when we had the unexpected
satisfaction to behold the mighty squadron drawn up
in the open cover, in open order, two hundred yards
ahead. Some of them stood motionless as statues,
others moved slowly here and there, and browsed upon
the trees.

The troop consisted of ten bull elephants: eight of
them were about three parts grown ; the other two were
enormous old elephants, in magnificent condition. We
halted and gave the dogs water, and I then rode slow-
ly round the elephants to ascertain which was the best.
After riding twice along their front, they all, as if by
one accord, turned their faces to me, and advanced leis-
urely within forty yards, giving me an excellent oppor-
tunity of making my choice. At length they saw me,
and, sounding the alarm, all made off together in great
consternation. I galloped alongside of them to make
my final choice, and selected the largest elephant. 1
had some difficulty in getting him clear of his com-
rades, some of which were extremely fierce, and were
trumpeting along, with their tails and trunks aloft.
At length I got him clear; all my dogs had gone ofi'to
the right and left after other elephants, and Dread-
naught came galloping up to me, having thrown my
after-rider, who did not succeed in recapturing him.

My elephant now, hearing the barking and trumpet-
ing on every side, halted beside a bushy tree, with his
head high, and right to me: but, presently turning his
broadside, I gave it him sharp right and left after the
shoulder; and the dogs, hearing the shots, came up to

A FURIOUS CONFLICT. 81

my assistance. The conflict now became fast and furi-
ous ; I had very pleasant work with this fine old ele-
phant. My horse behaved very well, and the elephant's
fury and attention were chiefly directed toward the dogs,
who stuck well to him ; but he was by far the toughest
elephant to finish that I have ever engaged with. I gave
him thirty-five balls, all about and behind his shoulder,
and discharged at distances varying from fifteen to
thirty-five yards, before he would halt and die. At
length he reduced his pace to a very slow walk ; blood
flowed from his trunk and all his wounds, leaving the
ground behind him a mass of gore; his frame shudder-
ed violently, his mouth opened and shut, his lips quiv-
ered, his eyes were filled with tears; he halted beside
a thorny tree, and, having turned right about, he rock-
ed forward and backward for a few seconds, and, falling
heavily over, his ancient spirit fled. The natives now
came up, and, having promised to go on the spoor of
my horse Dreadnaught, I returned to Massouey, hav-
ing off-saddled for an hour.

No elephants having drank at the fount for some
days, on the 5th I resolved to leave my favorite Mas-
souey. I accordingly marched about 1 P.M. I passed
Corriebely an hour before dark : there was water enough
for the horses. Here I met Mutchuisho with a large
party of Bcchuanas, sent by Sicomy to endeavor to make
me come and trade with him. I halted for an hour
after sunset, and then inspanned and trekked on till
the moon went down, when I halted near my old out-
spanning-place, having performed a very long and dif-
ficult march.

On the 6th, a very cold morning, we trekked at dawn
of day, and in about three hours reached Lesausau, a
bold and romantic gorge in the Bamangwato Mount-

D2

82 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ains, in the depths of which was a strong fountain
Sicomy soon made his appearance, and bothered all day;
but he did not produce any ivory. At night I watched
the fountain in the bold ravine, and shot two old black
rhinoceroses, bull and cow, with my smooth bore carry-
ing six to the pound. Both of these ran considerable
distances, but were found by the natives. Along with
the cow borele were two other old bulls, who fought
together for three hours alongside of me.

On the 7th Sicomy made his appearance early, and
toward evening bought powder and lead with seven
elephants' teeth. Soon after this bargain was con-
cluded he ordered men to take away the teeth, and he
threw me back the powder ; but on my kicking back the
powder, and swearing I would shoot the first man who
touched the ivory, he relinquished the idea.

On the succeeding day Sicomy prowled about the
vagons all day, and bothered me so that I at last lost
my temper, and swore at him. The natives held a con-
sultation for a few minutes, which ended by their say-
ing that they were all going to leave m'e. I said that
T was'happy to hear it. They then decamped to a
man ; but in an hour four of my old acquaintances ap-
peared, and said that the captain wished me to come
and see him ; but I replied that I was sick, and going
to sleep. In another hour he made his appearance;
and on asking him what I had done that he had called
all his men away, he replied that they had gone away
to have a sleep. Presently Arkwright and Christie
,\jde up to my wagons : theirs were at hand. On the
maich they had lost one ox and two horses in pitfalls.
At night Arkwright a'nd I watched the v/ater, but did
not get a shot.

On the 9th Sicomy brought me ivory. He asked me

TRADING WITH SICOM"i 83

to go to my hunting-ground, saying that he would trade
with me there. He was very anxious to separate the
two parties. As soon as possible, therefore, I inspan-
ned, and trekked down the broad strath, steering south,
although the natives asserted that I should find no
water, and tried to guide me north. After trekking
about eight miles, much to the annoyance of the Ba-
marigwatos, I discovered the residence of the Bahwas,
where I halted for the night, having sent a message to
Schooey, the old chief, that I would trade with him
next day.

The next day the old chief, with his wives and no-
bility, appeared at an early hour, and by mid-day I had
purchased several tusks of elephants ; also two very fine
karosses of leopard-skin, &c. I then inspanned, and in
two hours"! got clear of the Bamangwato Mountains,
when I held about east, through thick forest, halting
for the night beside a small fount, where the horses
could not drink. On the march pallah were abundant
and very tame.

On the morning of the 12th Sicomy came to my fire-
side, and said he was going to trade with me. A party
of Bakalahari had arrived a little before, bearing twenty-
nine elephants' teeth. After some trouble we set the
trading a going, and in about three hours I had purchas-
ed ten bull and ten cow elephants' teeth for ten mus-
kets, and seven other cow elephants' teeth for powder,
lead, and flints. I then bought two kobaoba knobker-
ries. At this moment natives came in, and reported
elephants to have drunk within a mile during the night.
This caused an immense bustle: in twenty minutes I
was under way, with two after-riders and a party of
good spoorers, followed by about a hundred and fifty
titarving natives. We tcok up the spoor a mile to the

84 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

south, and followed it due east until the sun went down,
when we halted for the night. While spooring we met
the country in flames far and wide, but we crossed the
fire, and found the spoor beyond. We saw a troop of
eight fat male elands, and a troop of eight giraffes.

Next day we followed the spoor for several miles in
an easterly course, when it took a turn to the north-
west, through most horrible wait-a-bit thorns. About
mid-day we came up with the elephants. The troop
consisted of one mighty bull, and two bulls three parts
grown. I first shot the best of the two small bulls, and
then the old bull. The natives and all my dogs had
kept him in view, and one fellow had pricked him in
the stern with an assagai. Upon the strength of this,
the Bechuanas came up and claimed him as theirs
when he fell ; but on my threatening to leave their
country, they relinquished the idea.

On the 16th and 17th I bagged two first-rate bull
elephants in the level forests to the eastward of Mang-
maluky.

On the 18th, after breakfast, I rode to Mangmaluky
to water my horses. One old bull elephant had been
there, but the natives had too much flesh, and would
not spoor. I rested all day, expecting my wagons, but
they did not appear. At night a panther came within
ten yards of my fire, and killed Cradock and disabled
Wolf, my two best elephant dogs.

On the 21st I held south, down a beautiful wide val
ley full of very green trees of various kinds. This v>'^as
evidently a favorite haunt with the elephants: every
tree bore their marks. At the southern end of this val-
ley was one of the most interesting fountains I ever be-
held; the water came gushing down through the wild-
est chasm, formed of one succession of huge masses of

ESCAPE OF A HERD OF ELEPHANTS. 85

rock of all shapes and sizes, thrown loosely together
in some places, and in others piled high one above an-
other, as if by the hand of some giant. All the ground
and rock about the fountain were covered with a layer
of elephants' dung about a foot deep. We had pro-
ceeded about half way up the valley when we heard
elephants trumpeting ahead of us: it was a very fine
troop of cows. There was one cow in the troop larger,
I think, than any I had ever before seen. On this occa-
sion I was extremely unfortunate. I began by sending
two balls into the shoulder of the fine cow just as they
were charging into a dense cover of wait-a-bits. The
dogs took after two calves, which I was obliged to
shoot; the natives, in attempting to assagai them, kill-
ed Bluma and wounded Alert in the loin. The ele-
phants were hiding in the thorns, and no man knew or
seemed to care where they were. At this moment wo
beheld another fine troop of cow elephants going along
the wooded mountain side opposite to us. I immedi-
ately made for them, and had the mortification to see
them gain a neck in the mountain just above my head
as I got within two hundred yards of them. I now re-
turned to the thorny cover, where we found the covrs
concealed. The natives eventually drove them out on
the wrong side of the cover without warning me, and,
to my extreme vexation, this troop of cows got away
without my killing one. I was extremely sorry to lose
the large cow elephant : she carried a pair of most beaa-
tiful and perfect teeth. I slept near the fountain, where
I picked up a piece of a tooth of a cow elephant.

On the 29th of June I reached a water called Lotlo.
kane, and hunted in the neighbohrood for several days,
bagging some very fine elephants.

On the 13th of July I held 'west with Mollyeon and

66 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

about twenty natives on the spoor of bull elephants two
days old. In the desert I came upon a troop of about
twenty elands, the best of which I rode into and slew.
In the evening we took up fresher spoor of three old
bull elephants ; but night setting in, we halted beneath
a shady tree.

Early in the morning we resumed the spoor, which
led us due west along the borders of the desert without
a check until sundown. We had now spoored these
elephants a very great distance, and the horses had not
had water since the morning of the preceding day. I
felt compassion for the thirsty steeds, and was on the
point of turning, when, lo ! a string of Bakalahari wom-
en were seen half a mile before us, each bearing on her
head an immense earthen vase and wooden bowl con-
taining water. They had been to a great distance to
draw water at a small fountain, and were now return-
ing to their distant desert home. This was to us a per-
fect God-send. The horses and dogs got as much as
they could drink, and all our vessels were replenished.
The sun being now under, we halted for the night.

At sunrise we resumed the spoor, and after follow-
ing it for about ten miles, and finding that these ele-
phants had gone clean away into the desert beyond the
reach of man, we gave it up, and made for the fountain
where the women had drawn the water on the preceding
day. On reaching the fountain wo found that four
bull elephants had drunk there during the night. It
was a soft, sandy soil, and the spoor was beautifully
visible. I had never seen larger spoor than that of two
of these ; they had fed slowly away from the fountain,
and we followed on with high hopes of seeing them
that day.

At length we got into a more densely wooded coun.

A BLACK RHINOCEROS SHOT. 87

try, and presently observed the elephants standing in
the forest about one hundred yards off. Having suc-
ceeded in securing the dogs, I shifted my saddle to Jock,
and rode slowly forward to inspect the mighty game.
Two of the elephants were but three parts grown ; the
other two were very large, but one of them w^as a great
deal taller and stouter than the other. This immense
elephant, which was, I think, decidedly the largest I
had ever seen, had unfortunately both his tusks broken
short off close to the lip ; I therefore hunted his com-
rade, who carried a pair of very beautiful and perfect
tusks. At the sixth shot he came to a stand and pres-
ently fell. I then dismounted and ran up to him, wdien
he rose to his feet and stood some time, and then walk-
ed a few paces, and fell again and died. On going up
to him I found that he carried the finest teeth I had yet
obtained; they must have weighed one hundred pounds
each. He was an extremely old bull, and had been
once much wounded with assagais, the blades of two of
which were found in his back.

On the 17th I made for camp, and held through a
fine open country lying northwest from Corriebely. In
following some ostriches I came upon an extremely old
and noble black rhinoceros lying fast asleep in some
low wait-a-bits. The birds having tried in vain to
waken him, I fired from the saddle. The first ball hit
him as he lay in the shoulder ; the second near his
heart, as he gained his feet. In an instant the dogs
were round him ; he set off down hill at a steady can-
ter, and led me a chase of a mile, when he came to a
stand, his shoulder failing him. At this instant I be-
held a troop of about twenty fine elands trotting before
me on the open slope; I therefore quickly finished the
black rhinoceros with two more balls, and then gave

88 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

chase to the elands. I bagged the two best in the troop,
a bull and cow, the latter about the fattest I have ever
seen. I brought the bull withm one hundred yards of
the chukuroo.

At dawn next day I shot, from the spot I had slept
on, a springbok, running, through the heart, at one
hundred yards. After cutting off the horns of the black
rhinoceros, I held on for Letlocbee, and slept at Lebo-
tane, a very strong and perpetual fountain.

On the 19th, at sunrise, I pursued my march to the
famous fountain of Letlocbee, to which I removed my
camp. On the 24th I left Letlocbee, and marched upon
Lotlokanc.

In the forenoon of the next day I rode out to look for
koodoos without success. While riding through the
forest I came upon the bloody spoor of an elephant ; he
had been evidently hunted by natives. The elephant
was not far away, for, following the spoor a few hund-
red yards, I came upon about sixty natives, who were
hanging the flesh in garlands upon the thorny trees all
around. This was an old bull elephant, and was quite
lame, when the Bechuanas found him, from a ball-
wound in the shoulder. On returning to camp, one of
my Hottentots, who had been after some strayed oxen,
stated that he had come upon a buffalo newly killed b)
a lion, and that the lion was lying in the bushes close
by, watching his prey. Having taken some coffee, I
saddled up three horses and rode for the lion, with Booi
and Kleinboy carrying my Moore and Westley Rich-
ards, and accompanied by all my dogs. As we ap-
proached the carcass of the buffalo, which lay in a wait-
a-bit thorn cover, the dogs all dashed away to my left,
and in an instant they gave tongue, which was imme*
diately followed by the deep and continued, growling of

A LION SHOT. 89

the lion ; he seemed to be advancing right to where we
stood. I turned my head to ask Kleinboy for my shoot-
ing-horse, which he had ridden to the field of bittle,
but my trusty after-riders had fled on hearing the first
growl of the advancing lion. I beheld Booi swept out
of the saddle by the bough of a tree, and fall heavily to
the ground with my pet rifle ; while Kleinboy, with
my other gun, was charging p^nic-stricken in another
direction. After a short chase I came up with Klein-
boy, who did not lack my blessing; and having changed
horses and got my gun from him, I galloped to meet
the grim lion.

Ye gods ! what a savage he looked. The whole of
his mane was deeply tinged with the blood of the buf-
falo, and the rays of the declining sun added to it a lus-
ter which imparted to the now exasperated lion a look
of surpassing fierceness. He was making for the ad-
jacent rocky mountains, and he marched along in front
of the dogs with his tail stuck straight out, stepping
along with an air of the most consummate pride and
independence. There was not a moment to lose, so I
galloped forward on one side, and then rode in slowly
to get a near shot ; as he approached I came within
thirty yards of him, and, halting my horse, I fired for
his heart from the saddle. On receiving the ball he
wheeled about, when I gave him the second a little be-
low the first ; he then walked or ran about ten yards
forward and fell dead. This was a very large old lion;
he had cleaned his buflalo very nicely, dragging up all
the offal into a heap at a distance from the carcass, and
he had watched it all day to keep away the vultures,
&c. The buffalo carried a very fine head.

On the 26th, feeling in very indifferent health, I re-
mained at home and stretched the lion's skin.

90 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

The next day, after breakfast, I rode np the wilJ
glen above camp, intending to seek for bastard gems-
bok on the other side of the mountains. I had ridden
half way up the glen, when lo ! the long-wished for
lovely sable antelope stood right in my path ; a prince-
ly old buck : he stood about two hundred yards ahead,
looking at me. Having heard that dogs can easily
catch this antelope,. and having all my dogs at my heels,
I sent them ahead, and fired a shot to encourage them;
in half a minute they were at the heels of the pota-
quaine, and turned him dow"n hill. He crossed the glen
before me, and dashed up a very rough and rocky pass
in the rocks to my right, the dogs following, but con-
siderably thrown out. I listened to hear a bay, but
listened in vain ; to follow on horseback was impossi-
ble. I therefore galloped round to an opposite point,
and listened with breathless anxiety, standing in my
stirrups to catch one sharp note from my trusty dogs.
Nor did I wait long : in a distant hollow in the rocks I
could faintly hear my dogs at bay.

My heart beat high ; it must be the sable antelope,
and the dogs would never leave him. Already I felt
that he was mine, and with a joyous heart I urged
Mazeppa over the most fearful masses of adamantine
rock, and at last came into the hollow, where my dogs
were keeping up a furious bay. Some thick bushes
concealed the game from my view ; I peeped over these,
and, to my intense disappointment, instead of the sable
antelope, I beheld an old bull koodoo fighting gallantly
for his life. I bowled him over with a shot in the heart,
and rode to follow two other sabh antelopes which I
had seen on the face of a rocky hill while galloping
round the rocks to seek for my dogs. I had ridden a
few hundred yards, when, high above me on the ahoul-

A SABLE ANTELOPE BAGGED. 91

der of a rocky and well- wooded mountain on the op-
posite side of the ravine, I detected a fourth sable an-
telope, a fine old buck. I rode into the deep ravine,
and, having secured the steeds, I stripped to my shirt,
and ascended the bold face to stalk him.

I held for a little to leeward of where I had marked
him ; the Bushman followed with Boxer on a string.
When I gained the summit I proceeded with extreme
caution, and at length beheld him through tlie trees
within a hundred yards of me ; I crept about ten yards
nearer, and then lay till he should move ; this he pres-
ently did. He walked obligingly forward, and stood
broadside in all his glory, with his magnificent cimeter-
shaped horns sweeping back over his haunches. I fired.
The ball broke his fore leg in the shoulder, and he
dropped on his face, but, recovering himself, gained his
legs, and limped slowly over the ridge. Boxer imme-
diately appeared, and was beside me just as I peeped over
the ridge, and beheld the wounded buck looking back
within fifty yards of me. On seeing Boxer he turned
about, and as he turned I sent my second ball through
his ribs. He then disappeared, and stumbled down the
rocky mountain side, with Boxer at his heels. I fol-
lowed as fast as could be, and found him half way down
the mountain, sitting on his haunches at bay, whera I
finished him with a shot in the heart. This was a
magnificent sable antelope in the prime of life; he was
very fat, and the flesh was excellent.

On the 28th I rode through tlie hills in quest of pota-
quaine, and went over a deal of rough ground on foot,
and saw spoor, but no potaquaine. In the evening I
took some bedding up the glen, and slept there.

I had lain in great pain all night, and in the morning
of the 29th I found myself attacked with acute rheu-

92 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

matic fever. I had jnst strength to gain my wagons,
when the disease came on in full force, swelling up all
the joints of my body, and giving me the most excrucia-
ting torture. I could not move hand nor foot, nor turn
on my bed. I had no medicine except salts ; these I
made use of, and bled myself, and in about eight days
the intense pains left me, but left me so weak that I
could not stand.

On the morning of the 4th of August I determined
to leave the Bamangwato country, and to return to
Sichely by way of Massouey, which place I reached on
the 15th. It was, however, infested by natives, and
all the game gone. I accordingly trekked for Lepeby,
which I reached the next day. Here too the natives
had gathered, so I proceeded on to Soobie, where I
found the skull of a very large lion, which the natives
said had been killed by another lion.

At night I lay by the water with Kleinboy ; abund-
ance of game came and drank, but it was too dark to
shoot with any certainty. About midnight a lion and
a lioness came within ten yards of us before we noticed
them. I was lying half asleep, but detected Kleinboy
removing the big rifle from my side : he made a lucky
shot; the ball passed through the lion's heart. He
bounded forward about fifty yards, and, groaning fear-
fully, died. Presently we heard the hyaenas and jack-
als feasting on him, and before morn he was consumed.
After some time the lioness reapproached the water to
seek her mate, and drew nearer and nearer to us, roar-
ing most ffarfully ; it was truly enough to make the
stoutest heart quail. Kleinboy's quite failed him ; and
presently, hearing other lions approaching on the op-
posite side of the fount, I certainly felt that we were
in danger, and accordingly agreed to light a fire, which

HUNT FOR A TROOP OF LIONS. 93

was soon blazing cheerfully. I continued to watch the
water from my deadly lair, both by day and night, till
the 1st of September, enjoying extraordinary sport, and
securing uncommonly fine specimens of the heads of all
the varieties of game frequenting the district.

On the 1st of September, about 12 o'clock, jNIollyee
came and told me that my cattle-herd had come upon
four wildebeests killed by a troop of lions. I immedi-
ately sent for the steeds and rode to the spot, with
Martin and the Bushman as after-riders, and accom-
panied by all my dogs. On reaching the ground, the
dogs immediately took up scent, and went beating up
the wind. I rode after, hunting them on, and presently
I missed Boxer and Alert. Wolf now beat up a scent
to windward, on which he afterward went oft' at full
speed, and was soon heard at bay with a lion. Just as
Wolf started I heard a dog bark to leeward, and, riding
hard in that line, I found Lassie barking at a large
bush, in which the lions had taken shelter, but were
gone. I was followed by poor cripple Argyll, who
went boldly in and took up the scent. I lost sight of
Argyll in the bushes. I then turned m.y face as Wolf
had gone, and rode hard to seek him; at length he
came up to me, quite exhausted with his exertions.

I rode back to seek Boxer, Alert, and Argyll. On
coming to the place where Argyll had gone off, I found
lions' spoor, and the spoor of the dogs on the top of it.
After holding this spoor for a few hundred yards, I met
my dogs, who, returning, led me to the game I sought
— it was a noble lioness. As I approached I first be-
held her great, round face and black-tipped ears peep-
ing over the low bushes. On riding up she obstinately
kept her full front to me, although the dogs were bark-
ing close around her : at length she exposal a raking

94 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

side shot, and the ball smashed her shoulder. She th^n
charged among the dogs without doing any harm. At
my second shot Schwartland was unsteady and spoiled
my aim; the ball, however, passed through the m.iddle
of her foot from side to side. I beckoned to Martin for
my Moore, and, having got it, rode up within a few-
yards of the lioness and gave her a shot, which crippled
her in her other shoulder. She then fell powerless on
the ground, and I fired rriy fourth shot for her heart :
on receiving it, she rolled over on her side and died. ]
cut ofl' her head and the ten nails of her two fore feet,
and rode to camp, where I found that the rascally
Hottentots, taking advantage of Martin's absence, had
boned all my rich game broth, replacing it with cold
water. It blew a very stiff breeze of wind while I was
hunting the lions, which entirely prevented me from
hearing the dogs bark. The evening being very cold
and windy, I did not watch the water. Lions roared
around our camp all night.

CHAPTER XXII.

A Lion shot from my Watcbing-hole at Midnight — Six Lions drink close
beside me — A Lioness slain — A Rhinoceros bites the Dust — Moslafeose
Fountain — My Shooting-hole surrounded with Game — Pallah5,,Sas-
saybies, Zebras, &c. — A Rhooze-Rheebok shot — Extraordinary Cir
cumstance — My fiftieth Elephant bagged — Interesting Fountains on
the Hills — Leave my Wagons for the Hills — Struggle with a Boa
Constrictor — Lions too numerous to be agreeable — Five Rhinoceroses
shot as they came to drink — A venomous Snake.

On the afternoon of the 3d of September I watched
the fountain. Toward sunset one blue wildebeest, six
zebras, and a large herd of pallahs were all drinking

r',\K MGMT SHOOTIKG. 95

leiorc iric. I kty enjoying contemplation for at least
fifteen minutes, and, most of them having then slaked
their thirst, I sent a ball through the heart of the best
headed pallah. I then took a long shot at the blue
wildebeest bull, and sent the other ball into his shoul-
der. I now came to the camp, and ordered the pallah
to be i^aced in front of my hole beside the water, to
attract the lions. Having taken my coffee, I returned
to the water with Kleinboy and Mollyee. It was bright
moonlight. We had scarcely lain down when the ter-
rible voice of a lion was heard a little to the east ; the
jackals were feasting over the remains of the white
rhinoceros of yesterday, and only one or two occasion-
ally came and snuffed at the pallah. Presently a herd
of zebras, accompanied by elands, approached the wa-
ter, but were too timid to come in and drink : a troop
of wild dogs now came boldly up, and were walking
off with the pallah, when I fired into them. They
made off, but immediately returning and again seizing
my pallah, I fired again, and wounded one of them.

Soon after we had lain down a thundering clattering
of hoofs was heard coming up the vley, and on came an
immense herd of blue wildebeest. They were very
thirsty, and the leading cow very soon came boldly up
and drank before me. I sent a ball through her ; she
ran sixty yards up the slope behind me, and fell dead.
Her comrades then thundered across the vley, and took
np a position on the opposite rising ground. In two
minutes the hyaenas and jackals had attacked the car-
cass of this wildebeest. Soon after this a lion gave a
most appalling roar on the liushy height close opposite
to us, which was succeeded by a death-like stillness
which lasted for nearly a minute. I had then only one
bhot in my four barrels, and I hastily loaded the c *^her

96 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA,

barrel of my Westley Richards; and with breathless at-
tention kept the strictest watch in front, expecting
every moment to see the mighty and terrible king of
beasts approaching : bnt he was too cunning. He saw
all the other game faght shy of the water, so he made a
circuit to leeward to get the wind off the fountain.
Soon after he roared I heard a num-ber of jackajs both-
ering him, as if telling him to come across the vley to
the wildebeest : he growled from side to side, as if play
ing with them, and after this all was still.

I had listened with intense anxiety for about fifteen
minutes longer, when I heard the hyaenas and jackals
give way on either side behind me from the carcass of
the wildebeest, and, turning my head slowly round, be-
held a huge and majestic lion, with a black mane which
nearly swept the ground, standing over the carcass.
He seemed aware of my proximity, and, lowering his
head, at once laid hold of the wildebeest and dragged
it some distance up the hill. He then halted to take
breath, but did not expose a broadside, and in a quar-
ter of a minute he again laid hold of the wildebeest and
dragged it about twelve yards further toward the cover,
when he again raised his noble head and halted to take
breath.

I had not an instant to lose ; he stood with his right
side exposed to me in a very slanting position ; I stretch-
ed my left arm across the grass, and, taking him rath-
er low, fired : the ball took effect, and the lion sank to
the shot. All was still as death for many seconds,
when he uttered a deep growl, and, slowly gaining his
feet, limped toward the gover, roaring mournfully as
he went. When he got into the thorny bushes he
stumbled through them as he moved along, and in half
ft minute 1 heard him hg,lt and growl feavfuHyj as if

A MAGNIFICENT LION SHOT, 97

dying. I had now every reason to believe that he was
either dead or would die immediately, and if I did not
seek him till the morning I knew very well that the
hysenas and jackals. would destroy him. I according-
ly went up to camp, and, having saddled two horses, I
and Martin rode to seek him, taking all the dogs, led
in strings by the natives. On reaching the carcass of
the wildebeest we slipped the dogs, and they went off
after the hysenas and jackals : we listened in vain for
the deep growl of the lion, but I was persuaded that
he was dead, and rode forward to the spot where I had
last heard him growl. Lassie, now coming up, com-
menced barking at a bush in front of me, and, riding
round, I had the immense satisfaction to behold the
most magnificent old black-maned lion stretched out
before me.

The ball had entered his belly a little before the
flank, and traversed the length and breadth of his body,
crippling him in the opposite shoulder. No description
could give a correct idea of the surpassing beauty of
this most majestic animal, as he lay still warm before
me. I lighted a fire and gazed with delight upon his
lovely mane, his massive arms, his sharp yellow nails,
his hard and terrible head, his immense and powerful
teeth, his perfect beauty and symmetry throughout ;
and I felt that I had won the noblest prize that this
wide world could yield to a sportsman. Having about
fifteen natives with me, I sent for rheims and the lech
ter-uit, and we bore the lion to camp.

On my way from. the water to get the horses and
dogs, I shot an extremely old bull black rhinoceros
with a single ball : he dropped to the shot. His horns
were quite worn down and amalgamated, resemfeling
the. slump of an old oak-tree.

98 ADVENTLRES IN SOUTH AFRICA

On the afternoon of the 4th I deepened my hole and
watched the water. As the sun went down two grace-
ful springboks and a herd of pallah came and drank,
when I shot the best pallah in the troop. At night I
watched the water with Kleinboy : very soon a cow
black rhinoceros came and drank, and got off for the
present with two balls in hcj". A little afterward two
black rhinoceroses and two white ones came to the
water side. We both fired together at the finest of the
two black rhinoceroses; she ran three hundred yards
and fell dead. Soon after this the other black rhinoc-
eros came up again and stood at the water side ; I gave
her one ball after the shoulder ; she ran a hundred yards
and fell dead. In half an hour a third old borele ap-
peared, and, having inspected the two dead ones, came
up to the water side. We fired together; he ran two
hundred yards and fell dead. I felt satisfied with our
success, and gave it up for the night.

By the following evening the natives had cleared
away the greater part of two of the rhinoceroses, which
lay right in the way of the game approaching the water ;
I, however, enforced their leaving the third rhinoceros,
which had fallen on the bare rising ground, almost op-
posite to my hiding-place, in the hope of attracting a
lion, as I intended to w-atch the water at night. Soon
after the twilight had died away, I went down to my
hole with Kleinboy and two natives, who lay concealed
in another hole, with Wolf and Boxer ready to slip in
the event of wounding a lion.

On reaching the water I looked toward the carcass
of the rhinoceros, and, to ray astonishment, beheld the
ground alive with large creatures, as though a troop of
zebras were approaching the fountain to drink. Klein-
boy remarked to me that a troop of zebras were stand-

A GRAND SIGHT. 99

ing on the height. I ans\yered "Yes;" but I kne\7
very well that zebras would not be capering around the
carcass of a rhinoceros. I quickly arranged my blank-
ets, pillow, and guns in the hole, and then lay down to
feast my eyes on* the interesting sight before me. It
was bright m.oonlight, as clear as I need wish, and with-
in one nio;ht of beinsf full moon. There were six large

DO o

lions, about twelve or fifteen hysenas, and from twenty
to thirty jackals, feasting on and around the carcasses
of the three rhinoceroses. The lions feasted peacefully,
but the hyaenas and jackals fought over every mouth-
ful, and chased one another round and round the car-
casses, growling, laughing, screeching, chattering, and
howling without any intermission. The hyaenas did
not seem afraid of the lions, although they always gavo
way before them ; for I observed that they followed them.
in the most disrespectful manner, and stood laughing,
one or two on either side, when any lions came after
their comrades to examine pieces of skin or bones which
they were dragging away. I had lain watching this
banquet for about three hours, in the strong hope that,
when the lions had feasted, they would come and drink.
Two black and two white rhinoceroses had made theii
appearance, but, scared by the smell of the blood, they
had made off.

At length the lions seemed satisfied. They all walk-
ed about with their heads up, and seemed to be think-
ing about the water; and in two minutes one of them
turned his face toward me, and came on. He was im-
mediately followed by a second lion, and in half a min-
ute by the remaining four. It was a decided and gen-
eral move ; they were all coming to drink right bang in
my face, within fifteen yards of me.

T charged the unfortunate, pale, an(' anting Klein-

100 ADVENTJuES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

boy to convert himself into a stone, and knowing, from
old spoor, exactly where they would drink, I cocked my
left barrel, and .placed myself and gun in position. The
six lions came steadily on along the stony ridge until
within sixty yards of me, when they Jialted for a min-
ute to reconnoiter. One of them stretched out his mas-
sive arms on the rock and lay down : the others then
came on, and he rose and brought up the rear. They
walked, as I had anticipated, to the old drinking-place,
and three of them had. put down their heads and were
lapping the water loudly, when Kleinboy thought it
necessary to shove up his ugly head. I turned my
head slowly to rebuke him, and, again turning to the
lions, found myself discovered.

An old lioness, who seemed to take the lead, had de-
tected me, and, with her head high and her eyes fixed
full upon me, was coming slowly round the corner of
the little vley to cultivate further my acquaintance !
This unfortunate coincidence put a stop at once to all
further contemplation. I thought, in my haste, that it
was perhaps most prudent to shoot this lioness, espe-
cially as none of the others had noticed me. I accord-
ingly moved my arm and covered her: she saw me
move and halted, exposing a full broadside. I fired;
the ball entered one shoulder and passed out behind the
other. She bounded forward with repeated growls, and
was followed by her five comrades, all enveloped in a
c'oud of dust ; nor did they stop until they had reached
the cover behind me, except one old gentleman, who
halted and looked back for a few seconds, when I fired,
but the ball went high. I listened anxiously for some
sound to denote the approaching end of the lioness, nor
listened in vain. I heard her growling and stationary,
as if dying. In one minute her comrades crossed tjie

A FINE OLD BLACK RHINOCEROS SHOT. 101

vley a little below me, and made toward the rhinoceros
I then slipped Wolf and Boxer on her scent, and, fol-
lowing them into the cover, found her lying dead with-
in twenty yards of where the old lion had lain two
nights before. This was a fine old lioness, with per-
fect teeth, and was certainly a noble prize ; but I felt
dissatisfied at not having rather shot a lion, which I
had most certainly done if my Hottentot had not de-
stroyed my contemplation.

On the 8th, as I and Kleinboy watched the under
water about midnight, we heard a black rhinoceros blow-
ing beside the upper water. We very rashly walked
up within about eighteen yards of him, with no other
shelter than a small bush. On perceiving us, the bo-
rele at once turned his head to me and advanced slow-
ly: Kleinboy, who was on my right and had a good
chance, fortunately fired without orders, and the ball
entered the shoulder with a fine direction. Borele then
charged madly and furiously through trees and bushes,
right toward camp, making the most tremendous blow-
ing noise, and halting in a stony open flat close to the
wagons: he stood, and staggered about for a minute or
two, and then fell. On coming up to him, I found him
a magnificent specimen, carrying three distinct horns.

After breakfast on the 10th, the oxen having drunk,
we inspanned and marched to Bootlonamy, which we
reached at sunset.

After a march of three days, during which the cattle
and horses nearly died of thirst, we reached Mosela-
kose, a retired fountain in a bold glen or gorge in the
firs^ .nountain chain before us. As we approached this
fine fountain, the poor, thirsty, loose cattle rushed ahead
to the water, not a little gratified by the sight.

I found the spoor of game abundant at the water ;

102 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

accordingly, loutspanned at a considerable distance from
it, and at once set about making a hole from wliicli to
shoot the game as they came up to drink.

After breakfast on the ICth I rode to the water and
again lay in my hole. There were iarge herds of game
standing within a few hundred yards of me when I lay
down, and soon after the horses had disappeared they
came on from all sides and completely surrounded me.
It was of no consequence that they got my wind, and
frequent alarms were sounded — the thirsty game to
windward would not heed the alarm, and, standing
their ground fearlessly, they gave the others confidence.
There was standing within shot of me at once about
three hundred pallahs, about twelve sassaybies, and
twenty zebras. I could only make out two very fair
heads in all that vast herd of pallahs, and these were
not to be compared with my best Soobie heads ; I there-
fore amused myself by watching the game, and did not
fire, having resolved to wait quietly, in the hope of some
rarer game appearing, such as koodoo, sable antelope,
or wild boar, &c. At length I observed three shy,
strange-looking antelopes approach the water, with
large bushy tails, and furry-looking reddish-gray hair.
They were three rhooze-rheeboks, a buck and two does.
I had never before heard that either of the rheeboks
frequented these parts ; being anxious to certify that
this antelope did so, I shot the buck through the heart.

The next day I again rode to the water and lay down,
with large herds of pallahs, Sec, in view: soon after the
horses were gone, they came in and surrouu ^ed me, the
same as the day before. It was a fine show of game :
there were about two hundred pallahs, about fifty blue
wildebeests, thirty zebras, and thirty sassaybies, all at
once drinking and standing within easy shot of me.

ABUNDANCE OF GAME. 103

After watching them for. a short time, I selected a fine
old cow bkie wildebeest, and fired, when this vast body
of game thundered, panic stricken, away on every side.
As the dust cleared away the gnoo was to be seen
standing alone, and in about ten minutes she stagger-
ed, fell, and died. Fifteen minutes afterward two
herds of pallahs approached from different directions.
I was overhauling them, when up came two tearing
wild boars and stood broadside before me, with their
long tails stuck right up. I took the best behind the
shoulder : he ran off with his comrade up a very rocky
hill above the fountain, leaving the stones red in his
wake, and feeling himself unable to proceed further,
charged and staggered violently about the stones, and
at last gave in, having broken both his under teeth ;
he also squealed violently when the struggles of death
came over'him.

A singular circumstance occurred as I watched the
waters on the 20th.- Having shot a sassayby, he im-
mediately commenced choking from the blood, and his
body began to swell in a most extraordinary manner ;
it continued swelling, with the animal still alive, until
it literally resembled a fisherman's float, when the sas-
sayby died of suffocation. It was not only his body
that swelled in this ext*" ^ordinary manner, but even his
head and legs, down to his knees.

The 21st was a bitter cold morning, with a strong
wind from the southwest. I rode to my hole at the
fountain before the morning star appeared. Shortly,
becoming impatient of lying still, I rose from my holo
to examine what game ha 1 drunk during the niirht, and,
to my astonishment, at once discovered the spoor of a
mighty bull elephant, which must have drunk there not
many hours before. I went in haste to camp, and, hav-

104 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ing made all ready for a three-days' trip, took up the
spoor with two after-riders and six natives. It led us
in an easterly course, first through a neck in the mount-
ains, and then skirting them for about five miles through
thick cover and over hard adamantine rocks and sharp
stones. The elephant had fed as he went along, and
we soon came up with him standing in a thicket.
When we first caught sight of him he was within
twenty yards of us, a bushy tree nearly concealing him
from our view. I first observed one of his tusks, and
then I had to dispatch Kleinboy to catch the cowardly
natives, who were making off at top speed with my
dogs on strings. The dogs fought well with him : it
was very rocky ground, and I gave him one deadly shot
before he was aware of our presence. I then hunted
him into softer ground, and slew him with the tenth
shot.

This fellow made up my fiftieth elephant bagged in
Africa, not to mention numbers lost.

On our way to camp, while following an old estab-
lished elephant and rhinoceros foot-path, I observed a
gray mass beneath a bush, with something which look-
ed like a shining black horn stuck out on one side : it
was within about eight yards of our path. When I
got alongside of it I saw that x"" was a princely old bull
bufialo, with a very remarkably fine head. He had
lain his head flat on the ground, and was crouching, in
the hope that we should ride past without observing
him, just as an old stag or a roebuck does in Scotland.
I gave the dogs the signal of the presence of game,
when, as dogs invariably will do, they dashed off" in the
wrong direction. The buffalo sprang to his feet, and
in one instant he was lost in the thicket.

From the quantit\- of buflalo's spoor on the north

RHOOZE-RHEEBOKS. 105

gule of this mountain range, I made up my mind that
there must be some strong water on that side of the
hills, as only one or two buffaloes occasionally came to
drink at the fountain where I was encamped ; the na-
tives all declared that there was none. I, however, on
the 22d, determined to ride thither to explore, and ac-
cordingly started with Kleinboy and the Bushman.
We held first about west, and then crossed the mount-
ains by a succession of very rocky valleys and ravines.
When we had gained the highest part of the rock, which
opened -to us the forests of the north, a troop of seven
doe koodoos and three rhooze-rheeboks started on the
opposite side of the ravine. The dogs, observing the
koodoos, gave immediate chase ; and after a very fine
and bold course, they brought one to bay far in the val-
ley below, which Kleinboy shot.

I had, in the mean time, ridden ahead, following an
old-established game foot-path, and after proceeding
two or three miles I had the satisfaction to discover a
beautiful fountain in a deep rocky ravine on the north
side of the mountains. Here was fresh spoor of black
and white- rhinoceros, buffalo, wildebeest, sassayby,
koodoo, klip-springer, &c. A little after this I was met
by my after-riders, who had likewise discovered a ra-
vine containing water a little to the east. There they
had started two bull buffaloes, three buck koodoos, and
a troop of rheebok. I then rode to inspect this water,
and took up the spoor of the buffaloes, in the hope of
bringing them to bay with the dogs I held up the hol-
low on their spoor, and presently observed one of them
standing among some trees to my le''t. The dogs were
snuffing about close under his nose ; nevertheless, they
failed to observe him, but set off' at top speed on some
other scent ; nor did ihey return for about ten minutes.
E2

106 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

The buffalo did not seem startled by the iogs, but
walked slowly over the rocky ridge. I was following
briskly after him, when . I observed his comrade lying
right in our path ; we squatted instantly, but he got
our wind and was off. I followed, and got a shot across
the ravine, wounding him behind the shoulder. When
the dogs came up I tried to put them on this spoor, but
they dashed up the ravine and started three other buf-
faloes, which they failed in bringing to bay, nor did I
again see the dogs till I had been two hours in camp.
I nearly killed myself by running after them, for I was
on foot, the ground being too bad for the horses.

On teaching the steeds I rode hard for camp, as the
day was far spent. Passing the mouth of another bold
ravine, we crossed very well-beaten paths, which led me
to suspect that this ravine also contained a fountain.
We had ridden about half way to camp when a fine old
bull eland came charging up to leeward, having got our
wind. I sprang from the back of Mazeppa, and gave
him both barrels as he passed me. We then gave him
chase through very thick cover, and after a sharp burst
of about a mile I shot him from the saddle : he carried
a very fine head, and was, notwithstanding the late-
ness of the season, in very good condition.

On the 23d, in the forenoon, I rode to explore the
suspected ravine of the day before, and, having crossed
the mountain chain, came upon the fresh spoor of a
very large troop of cow elephants leading toward tha
spot. I at once determined to follow it, and dispatched
the Bushman to camp for the dogs and Kleinboy's gun,
&c. I rode slowly ahead on the spoor, imagining the
elephants at a great distance, when, on gaining a ridge,
I came full upon the troop, drawn up within twenty-
five yards of me. There were perhaps from twenty-

AN ELEPHANT CHASE. 107

five to thirty of them. The instant I came upon them
they got my wind, and, rumbling, away they went in
three divisions into the impenetrable cover.

The ground that I had now reached was one solid
mass of sharp adamantine blocks of rock, so that a
horse could with difhculty walk on it. I held along
the ridge above the cover, and in half a minute I
heard one division of the elephants crashing tlirough
the cover after me. They came on a little above me,
and another troop held the same course a little before
me, so that I had considerable difficulty in getting clear
of them, and when I did I held for the level ground be-
neath the dense cover. Here I fell in with one ele-
phant with a calf: she had only one tooth. I gave her
a shot after the shoulder ; and next minute, while try-
ing to head her in the dense cover, she very nearly ran
me down in her charge. I, of course, lost her imme-
diately, being without dogs.

I then gave up the elephants in vexation with the
ground, and rode to explore the ravine. My wounded
elephant, however, happened to take the same course
above me in the cover, and I once more fell in with her.
She was going slowly along the hill sides, keeping in
the thickest cover, with a rocky ground, where my
horse would be of no service to me. I might now have
got her, but as she had only one tooth I was not anx-
ious about her, so I held up the bold A vine.

Here, as I expected, I found a strong fountain in a
solid rocky basin not more than ten feet wide : it was
a very interesting spot, approachable by three different
rugged passes, the sides of wliich were furrowed by
broad foot-paths established there through ages. The
large stones and masses of rock were either kicked to
the side or packed into a level "like a pavement;'' even

108 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

the solid adamantine rock was worn hollow by the feet
of the mighty game which most probably for a thou-
sand years had passed over it. Here I found fresh
spoor of most of the larger game, and, resolving to play
havoc by light of the coming moon, I left the glen and
rode for camp.

On the 25th, after breakfast, I started with bedding
and provisions to hunt for a few days on the other side
of the hills. We visited the first water, and established
a place of concealment with rocks and green boughs on
the rock. While we were making this bothy a wild
boar hove in view, but, observing us, he escaped. We
then held on to the further ravine, and on my way
thither I nearly rode down a fine old bastard gemsbok,
which got away among the rocks. I repaired an old
hiding-hole at this water, building it up with fragments
of rock. I then sent the steeds to a proper distance,
put out my fire, and lay down to watch for the night.

First came a pallah, closely followed by a wild dog.
The pallah escaped ; the wild dog presently returned,
and, observing my retreating men, barked loudly; ten
minutes after, about eight wild dogs came up the glen
and drank. Night now set in, and the moonlight very
faint. Presently an occasional loud displacement of
rock and stone announced the approach of large game:
it was two old bull buffaloes; they came and drank,
and went away without approaching within shot. Soon
after, fourteen buffaloes came ; but before these had fin-
ished drinking, they got an alarm, and charged panic-
stricken up the rugged mountain side. They had wind-
ed two lions, which came up to the fountain head, and
drank within eighteen yards of me, where they lay lap-
ping loudly, and occasionally halting for four or five min-
utes, but, from their light color and the masses of rock

GLORIOUS BUFFALO SHOOTING. 109

that surrounded them, I could not see to fire. About
ten minutes after they had drunk I fancied that they
were still lingering, and on throwing a stone their step
was heard retreating among the dry leaves and stones.

Soon after this six old bull buffaloes approached from
a glen behind us : they walked very slowly, standing
long to listen. When the leader came up to within
twenty yards of us, Kleinboy and I fired together ; it
ran thirty yards, and in two minutes fell. His com-
rades, after considering the matter for five minutes,
came on once more : we again took the leader, and he
also dropped. His comrades, as before, retreated, but,
soon returning, we wounded a third, which we did not
get. The moon was now under, and it was very dark ;
the buffaloes, however, were determined to try it on
once more, and coming up a fourth and last time, we
shot another old bull. In about ten minutes lions were
very busy on the carcass of the first buffalo, where they
feasted till morning, taking another drink before they
went away. Toward daybreak we wounded a white
rhinoceros, and soon after two black rhinoceroses fought
beside us, but I was too sleepy to rise.

On the 26th I rose at earliest dawn to inspect the
heads of the three old buffaloes ; they were all enor-
mous old bulls, and one of them carried a most splendid
head. The lions had cleaned out all his entrails : their
spoor was immense. Having taken some buffalo breast
and liver for breakfast, I dispatched Ruyter to the wag-
ons to call the natives to remove the carcasses, while I
and Kleinboy held through the hills to see what game
might be in the next glen which contained water. On
our way thither we started a fine old buck koodoo,
which I shot, putting both barrels into him at one
hundred yards. As I was examining the spoor of tho

110 ADVENTUR\:S IN SOUTH AFRICA.

game by the fountain, I suddenly detected an enormous
old rock-snake stealing in beneath a mass of rock be-
side me. He was truly an enormous snake, and, hav-
ing never before dealt with this species of game, I did
not exactly know liow to set about capturing him.
Being very anxious to preserve his skin entire, and not
wishing to have recourse to my rifle, I cut a stout and
tough stick about eight feet long, and having lightened
myself of my shooting-belt, I commenced the attack.
Seizing liim by the tail, I tried to get him out of his
place of refuge ; but I hauled in vain; he only drew
his large folds firmer together ; I could not move him.
At length I got a rheim round one of his folds about the
middle of his body, and Kleinboy and I commenced haul-
ing away in good earnest.

The snake, finding the ground too hot for him, re-
laxed his coils, and, suddenly bringing round his head
to the front, he sprang out at us like an arrow, with his
immense and hideous mouth opened to its largest di-
mensions, and before I could get out of his way he was
clean out of his hole, and made a second spring, throw-
ing himself forward about eight or ten feet, and snap-
ping his horrid fangs within a foot of my naked legs.
I sprang out of his way, and, getting a hold of the green
bough I had cut, returned to the charge. The snake
now glided along at top speed : he knew the ground
well, and was making for a mass of broken rocks, where
he would have been beyond my reach, but before he
could gain this place of refuge I caught him two or
three tremendous whacks on the head. He, however,
held on, and gained a pool of muddy water, which he
was rapidly crossing, when I again belabored him, and
at length reduced his pace to a stand. We then hang-
ed him by the neck to a bough of a tree, and in about

RHINOCEROS SHOOTING. Ill

fifteen minutes he seemed dead, but he again became
very troublesome during the operation of skinning,
twisting his body in all manner of ways. This serpent
measured fourteen feet.

A.t night no game visited the water, being scared by
the strong smell of the carrion. Lions, however, were •
so numerous that we deemed it safe to shift a position
we had taken down the glen, for they trotted past with-
in twenty yards of us, growling fearfully. We fired
off the big gun to scare them for the moment while
we shifted to our baggage at the fountain head, where
we instantly lighted a large fire. The lions, for a short
time after this, kept quiet, when they again returned,
and the fire being low, they soon commenced upon the
buffalo the natives had left within fifty yards of us, and
before morning two of them came up and looked into
our bothy, when Boxer giving a sharp bark, and I sud-
denly awaking and popping up my head, they bound-
ed off.

In the evening of the 28th I shot an old bull koo-
doo. At night I watched the water near my camp
with Kleinboy. After a long time had elapsed, an
enormous old bull muchocho or white rhinoceros came
slowly on, and commenced drinking within fifteen yards
of us, and next minute a large herd of zebras and blue
wildebeest. It was long before the muchocho would
turn his side ; when he did, we fired together, and
away he went with zebras and wildebeests concealed
in a cloud of dus^ Next came an old bull borele ; we
fired together, and he made off, blowing loudly, after
charging round and round, seeking some object on which
to wreak his vengeance. Next came another borele,
and he got two bullets into his person. The fourth that
came was another old bull muchocho ; he ran forty

112 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

yards and fell. And fifth came a cow borele ; she fell
dead to the shots. Three other rhinoceroses came about
me, but I was too drowsy to watch any longer, and fell
asleep.

These fountains afFord,ed me excellent shooting for
about a fortnight longer, during the whole of which
time I watched nightly in my different hiding-holes,
and bagged buffaloes, rhinoceroses, koodoos, zebras, and
other game. One night, while so engaged, a horrid
snake which Kleinboy had tried to kill with his load-
ing-rod flew up at my eye, and spat poison into it. Im-
mediately I washed it well out at the fountain. I en-
dured great pain all night, but next day the eye cam.e
all right.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Sichely's Kraal again — The Ngotwani — The loose Cattle are lost —
Clmse and kill a Water-buck — A Portion of the Cattle recovered — A
Leopard bayed by my Dogs and slain — Buftalo-shooting beside the
Ngotwani — A Lion feeds on the Carcass — My Horse knocked down
by the King of Biiites — Meet a grim Lion Face to Face at Midnight!
— He sheere off — These Animals unpleasantly bold — An amusing
Chase with a Buffalo — Literestiug Stalk in rocky Ground — Leave my
Hunting-ground and encamp on the Vaal River — Great Herds — In
taking the Drift a Wagon sticks fast in the Middle of the River — Great
Fear of losing all my Property — Rescue of the Wagon — Colesberg —
A Farmer's Wagon capsized in the Fish River — Visit Strydom's Farm
and find it Desolate — Arrival at GrahamstowB.

On the 16th of October we inspanned, and trekked
steadily on for Sichely under a most terrific sun, and
halted at sundown without water : the country was
covered with spoor of all the larger varieties of game,
including elephants.

CHASE A WATER-BUCK. 113

On the 17th I inspanned, and trekked a couple of
miles, when I found myself once more on the banks of
the Ngotwani, which, except at its source, was this
year generally dried up ; we, however, found a spot in
its gravelly bed where, by digging, we obtained suffi-
cient water for all. The natives in charge of the loose
cattle chose to remain behind all night, I having too
well supplied them with flesh. Though my remaining
stud of six horses and twelve trek-oxen were thus ab-
sent all night, I was not anxious about them, trusting
to the usual good herding of the natives. When, how-
ever, they came up after breakfast, they were minus
all the loose oxen, without being able to give any ac-
count of them, further than that they imagined that
they were with us : I accordingly dispatched tv/o of
my men on horseback to take up their spoor.

On the 18th I arose before it was clear, and rode up
the banks of the river with my dogs to seek for water-
buck, and presently arrived where another considerable
river's bed joins the Ngotwani. Near this spot I came
upon an old water-buck, the first I had ever seen. He
was standing among some young thorn-trees, within
sixty yards, and had his eye full upon me. Before I
could pull up my horse he was off at a rapid pace, and
crossed the river's bed above me. I shouted to the dogs,
and fired a shot to encourage them ; they had a pretty
fair start, and in half a minute the buck disappeared
over a rocky ridge, with three or four of my best dogs
within thirty yards of his stern. I knew that he would
make fur the nearest water; accordingly, I kept my
eye down the river, and listened with an attentive car
f )r the baying of the dogs. Presently the noble buck
appeared ascending a rocky pyramidal hill down the
river side, with the agility of a chamois, and only one

114 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

dog, Boxer, my best, at his heels. I then galloped
do^yn the river side at top speed to meet him, but was
too late : I, however, fired a long shot to eneourage
Boxer. Next moment, in ascending the opposite bank of
the Ngotwani, my horse fell and rolled down the bank
very nearly on the top of me One of the barrels of my
favorite ball gun was thereby stove, by coming in vio-
lent contact with a piece of rock. Jock, on gaining his
legs, declined being caught, and made off for camp, fol-
lowed by my after-rider : Alert at this moment came
up to me, having eight or ten inches of the skin of his
breast and fore-arm ripped clean up by the water-buck.
I now fancied that I had lost him, but a little after I
heard Boxer's voice coming down the river side with
the buck, having once more turned him. I ran up the
bank of the Ngotwani at my best pace to meet them,
and found the water-buck at bay in a deep pool of wa-
ter, surrounded by high banks of granite rock. He
would not stand at bay, but swam through the deep
water and broke bay on the opposite side. Boxer, how-
ever, held on, and followed him up the river, and once
more turned him to this pool. I met them coming
down the water-course, and sent a ball into the buck's
throat, which made blood flow freely from his mouth.
He held stoutly on, however, and plunged into the deep
pool, ther-e standing at bay under a granite rock. I
then headed him, and from above put a bullet between
his two shoulder blades, which dropped him dead on
the spot. He died as a water-buck ought, in the deep
water. My success with this noble and very beautiful
antelope gave me most sincere pleasure.

I had now shot noble specimens of every sort of game
in South Africa, excepting a few small bucks common
in the colony, and tho hippopotamus. Having contem-

CHASE A LEOPARD. 115

plated the water-buck for some time, I cut off his hand-
some head, which I boi3 to camp in triumph. The
next day I succeeded in bringing down another fine
water-buck after a hot chase.

On the 19th Kleinboy returned without the lost oxen :
the natives said that they had been found by Bakala-
hari, and were driven to Sichely. Next day the half of
them were sent by the chief, with a message that no
more had been found, but that spoor had been seen.

On the morning of the 22d I rode into camp, after
unsuccessfully following the spoor of a herd of ele-
phants for two days in a westerly course. Having par-
taken of some refreshment, I saddled up two steeds and
rode down the bank of Ngotwani with the Bushman,
to seek for any game I might find. After riding about
a mile along the river's green banlc, I came suddenly
upon an old male leopard, lying under the shade of a
thorn grove, and panting from the great heat. Al-
though I was within sixty yards of him, he had not
heard the horses' tread. I thought he was a lioness,
and, dismonnting, took a rest in my saddle on the Old
Gra}^, and sent a bullet into him. He sprang to his
feet, and ran half way down the river's bank, and stood
to look about him, when I sent a second bullet into his
person, and he disappeared over the bank. The ground
being very dangerous, I did not disturb him by follow-
ing then, but I at once sent Ruyter back to camp for
the dogs. Presently he returned with Wolf and Boxer,
very much done up with the sun. I rode forward, and
on looking over tiie bank the leopard started up and
sneaked off alongside of the tall reeds, and was instant-
ly out of sight. I fired a random sliot from the saddle
to encourage the dogs, and shouted to tiiem ; they,
however, stood looking stupidly round, and would not

116 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

take up his scent at all. I led them over his spoor again
and again, but to no purpose ; the dogs seemed quite
stupid, and yet they were Wolf and Boxer, my two best.

At length I gave it up as a lost affair, and was riding
down the river's bank, when I heard Wolf give tongue
behind me, and, galloping back, found him at bay with
the leopard, immediately beneath where I had fired at
him : he Vv-as very severely wounded, and had slipped
down into the river's bed and doubled back, whereby
he had thrown out both the dogs and myself. As I
approached he flew out upon Wolf and knocked him
over, and then, running up the bed of the river, took
shelter in a thick bush: Wolf, however, followed him,
and at this moment my other dogs came up, having
heard the shot, and bayed him fiercely. He sprang out
upon them, and then crossed the river's bed, taking
shelter beneath some large tangled roots on the opposite
bank. As he crossed the river I put a third bullet into
him, firing from the saddle, and as soon as he came to
bay, I gave him a fourth, which finished him. This
leopard was a very fine old male: in the conflict the
unfortunate Alert was wounded, as usual, getting his
face torn open ; he was still going on three legs, with
all his breast laid bare by the first water-buck.

In the evening I directed my Hottentots to watch a
fine pool in the river, and do their best while I rode to
a distant pool several miles up the Ngotwani, reported
as very good for game, to lie all night and watch : my
Totties, however, fearing " Tao," disobeyed me. On
reaching the water I was bound for, J found it very
promising, and, having fastened my two horses to a
tree beneath the river's bank, I prepared a place of con-
cealment close by, and lay down for the night.

The river's banks on each side were clad with groves

GLORIOUS OUFFALO SHOOTING. 117

of shady thorn-trees. After I had lain some time,
squadrons of buffaloes were heard coming on, until the
shady grove on the east bank of the water immediately
above me was alive with them. After some time the
leaders ventured down the river's bank to drink, and this
was the signal for a general rush into the large pool of
water: they came on like a regiment of cavalry at a
gallop, making a mighty din, and obscuring the air with
a dense cloud of dust. At length I sent a ball into
one of them, when the most tremendous rush followed
up the bank, where they all stood still, listening atten-
tively. I knew that the buffalo was severely wounded,
but did not hear him fall. Some time after I fired at a
second, as they stood on the bank above me ; this buffa-
lo was also hard hit, but did not then fall. A little after
I fired at a third on the same spot ; he ran forty yards,
and, falling, groaned fearfully : this at once brought on
a number of the others to butt their dying comrade,
according to their benevolent custom. I then crept in
toward them, and, firing my fourth shot, a second buf-
falo ran forward a few yards, and, falling, groaned as the
last ; her comrades, coming up, served her in the same
manner. A second time I crept in, and, firing a fifth
shot, a third buffalo ran forward, and fell close to her
dying comrades: in a few minutes all the other buffa-
loes made off, and the sound of teeth tearing at the
flesh was heard immediately.

I fancied it was the liyaenas, and fired a shot to scare
them from the flesh. A.11 was still ; and, being anxious
to inspect the heads of the buffaloes, I went boldly
forward, taking the native who accompanied me along
with me. We were within about five yards of the
nearest buffalo, when I observed a yellow mass lying
alongside of him, and at the same instant a Wnu gave

118 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

a deep growl. I thought it was all over with me. The
native «houted " Tao," and, springing away, instantly
commenced blowing shrilly through a charmed piece
of bone which he wore on his necklace. I retreated to
the native, and we then knelt down. The lion con-
tinued his meal, tearing away at the buffalo, and growl-
ing at his wife and family, who, I found next day by
the spoor, had accompanied him. Knowing that he
would not molest me if I left him alone, I proposed to
the native to go to our hole and lie down, but he would
not hear of it, and entreated me to fire at the lion. I fired
three different shots where I thought I saw him, but
without any effect ; he would not so much as for a mo-
ment cease munching my buffalo. I then proceeded to
lie down, and was soon asle p, the native keeping watch
over our destinies. Some time after midnight other
lions were heard coming on from other airts, and my
old friend commenced roaring so loudly that the native
thought it proper to wake me.

The first old lion now wanted to drink, and held right
away for the two unfortunate steeds, roaring terribly.
I felt rather alarmed for their safety; but, trusting
that the lion had had flesh enough for one night, I lay
still, and listened with an attentive ear. In a few
minutes, to my utter horror, I heard him spring upon
one of the steeds with an angry growl, and dash him to
the earth ; the steed gave a slight groan, and all was
still. I listened to hear the sound of teeth, but all con-
tinued still. Soon after this " Tao" was once more to
bo heard munching the buffalo. In a few minutes he
came forward, and stood on the bank close above us,
and roared most te. ribly, walking up and down, as if
meditating some mischief. I now thought it high time
to nialve a fire, nnd. quickly collecting some dry reeds

GET CONSIDERABLY SCARED. ' 119

and little sticks, in half a minute we had a cheerful
blaze. The lion, which had not yet got our wind, canie
forward at once to find out what the dense was up ;
but, not seeing to his entire satisfaction from the top
of the bank, he was proceeding to descend by a game-
path into the river-bed within a few yards of us. I
happened at the very moment to go to this spot to fetch
more wood, and, being entirely concealed from the lion's
view above by the intervening high reeds, we actually
met face to face !

The first notice I got was his sudden spring to one
side, accompanied by repeated angry growls, while I
involuntarily made a convulsive spring backward, at
the same time giving a fearful shriek, such as I never
before remember uttering. I fancied just as he growl-
ed that he was coming upon me. We now heaped on
more wood, and Icept up a very strong fire until the day
dawned, the lions feasting beside us all the time, not-
withstanding the remonstrances of the little native,
who, with a true Bechuana spirit, lamenting the loss
of so much good flesh, kept continually shouting and
pelting them with flaming brands.

The next morning, when it was clear, I arose and in-
spected the buffaloes. The three that had fallen were
fine old cows, and two of them were partly consr.mcd
by the lions. The ground all around was packed flat
with their spoor ; one particular spoor was nearly as
large as that of a borele. I then proceeded to inspect
the steeds: the sand around them was also covered with
the lion's spoor. He had sprung upon the Old Gray,
but had done him no further injury than scratching his
back through the skin: perhaps the lion had been scar-
ed by the rhcims, or, on discovering his spare condition,
had preferred the bufHxlo.

120 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

On the 24th we marched at dawn of day, and held
up the Ngotwani, halting at the fine large pool of water
where I had shot the three cow bufialoes two nights
previously. I had left Rnyter and some natives to look
after my flesh, and these reported lions to have sur-
rounded them all night, coming boldly up within a few
yards of them, and only retreating when*burning brand?
were sent flying at their heads.

The 26th was a cool, cloudy morning, and looked like
much rain. I was in the saddle long before the sun
rose, and rode down the river to seek water-buck, ac-
companied by all my dogs. I had not ridden far when
the dogs dashed up the wind, and started a large herd
of cow buffaloes, to which I gave chase. They led me
a long gallop right round camp, and ended by taking
down wind up the Ngotwani, and sought shelter in the
thorny thickets along its banks. Here, as a troop of
them charged past me, I dismounted and shot one fine
old cow; she brought up in a thicket, but took two
more balls before she fell.

The dogs were now coursing up and down the river's
bank after an old cow. with her two calves of this and
last year. At length all three took into a deep pool
some hundred yards long, and swam up and down and
from side to side, followed by all the dogs. I wounded
the old cow, but would not finish her then, and I next
shot the two calves, one of which sank to the bottom,
but soon after floated. I then came home to my camp
for the natives to draw the flesh. Returning, Vv'e found
the old cow still there, but standing in deep muddy
water. She carried a very fine head, but, unfortunate-
ly, a bullet had splintered the point of one of the horns.
While we were cutting up the veal^ the old cow ^am'*
to the side and got away. I came shortly afterward,

STALKING WATER-BUCK. 121

however, upon a very fine old cow buffalo, newly kill-
ed by a lion, and was astonished to find that it was my
friend of the morning, with the splintered horn. The
lion, ever prowling about, had detected her, and, after
a long chase, had knocked her over. She bore the most
fearful marks of his teeth on her throat, and all her
back was marked by his terrible claws. I thought that
there had been a long chase, as the buffalo was covered
with foam from the lion's mouth.

Having inspected the buffalo, I held on up the bank
of the river for a couple of miles — banks densely wood-
ed— and then turned my face for home, having had a
good bathe, and been saluted by a crocodile, who popi)cd
up his nose close beside me. I rode out a little dis-
tance from the river's bank, and presently came upon
four water-bucks. The dogs at once gave chase, and
broke a buck from the herd, which in one minute was
standing at bay in the river, when I galloped up, and,
dismounting, shot him. Soon after this, while skirting
some rocky hills bordering on the river, I detected a
very fine old water-buck standing high up on the sum-
mit of one of these. I stalked him in true Highland
fashion ; and when within seventy yards, I sent my
right ball through his shoulder. The buck bounded
over the ridge, and was out of sight in a moment. On
gaining the ridge, with my gun at the ready, I came
once more within range, when I sent a second bullet
through his ribs. While following his bloody spoor, I
heard groans on the bank a little above me, and, going
f(ji"ward, found a noble water-buck lying dying, with
the blood streaming from his mouth. When the life
was gone I cut off his head, which was borne to camp
before my after-rider.

The morning o' the 27th was extremely hot, but T

Vn... M.- r"

122 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

nevertheless resolved t(5 pack up and march to Choua-
ney. Accordingly, after much trouble and manage-
ment in stowing away all my lumber, we got under
way about 11 A.M., and readied Sichely's a little after
sundown. On the march one of my wagon's after-
wheels rolled off, but, very fcrtunateh^, the axle-tree
escaped. I found Mr. Livingstone at his devotions,
and he informed me that it was Sunday.

The next day was deliciously cloudy, with some
slight showers of rain. In the evening Sichely came
down to see ine, bringing my four lost oxen, which he
had at length made up his mind to restore. Three of
Sichely's men engaged to accompany me to the colony,
their wages to be three guns and two cows,

I now proceeded slowly by way of Lotlokane, Motito,
and Campbellsdorp, and encamped on the Vaal River
on the 11th of November. Here I was obliged to wait
for several days, owing to the great body of water com-
ing down rendering a passage impossible.

On the 16th, however, the river having subsided, I
inspanned my two wagons, and took the drift with my
heaviest wagon, drawn by fourteen oxen. I led the
team on horseback, and, several Griquas assisting us,
wo took the drift very high, and got a little more than
half way through, when two of the oxen became en-
tangled in the gear, and, being dragged along, my driv
or foolishly halted the wagon. The result of this fool-
ish managem.ent was, that the oxen instantly turned
right-about-face, and stood with their heads up water,
the stream being too powerful for them to stand still
otherwise. We spent a fruitless hour of very harassing
work, trying to right the oxen, which was, however,
impossible, and at length we were obliged to cut away
the trek-tow and cet the oxpn ashore. Hfuv, ;i!hi

THE WAGON GETS STUCK IN THE RIVER. 123

resting them for a little, Nve inspanned them in the
trek-tow, and, taking them some distance above the
isolated wagon, swam them down, and tried to fix the
trek-tow on the dissel-boom; but in this we failed, the
stream carrying away the cattle before they made the
wagon. We had then to go ashore and repeat the
process. In the next attempt the oxen were brought
too near the wagon, and, getting foul of it, we had
s:reat difficultv ^n extricating them. One ox remain-
ed there for half an hour before we got him clear, the
strong current holding him against the" wagon. We
next got over the oxen and trek-tow of the other wag-
on, and made several attempts with these, but without
success.

The day was now waning away, and both men and
oxen were very much knocked up. It was most dis-
tressing work, and it was greatly aggravated by the
cruel, sharp stones which composed the river's bed, and
the virulent, invisible doublegee-thorns with which the
banks were strewed. I began to despair of getting the
wagon out that day ; and from the appearance of the
weather toward the sources of the river for some time
past, we had every reason to expect a flood at any mo-
ment. It was a dismal prospect, and my heart was ill
at ease. Late in the day we made loose my strong
new buffalo trek-tow, and bent it on to the dissel-boom,
and then, bringing in tlie oxen, we managed to fasten
the tow on to this one. I also placed several men on
the wheels. This time we very nearly succeeded; the
wagon started and proceeded several yards, when one
of the tows gave way, and we were again left in the
lurch. Once more we made the attempt, and again
failed, the oxen becoming entangled with the gear. The
sun was now under, and, all hands being most coin-

124 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

pletely done up, we desisted for the night. JMy men
came off to the wagon with three of my steeds, and I
rummaged out some flesh, meal, and cofiee, with some
sleeping toggery and cooking utensils ; we then left the
desolate wagon, with great doubts of ever boarding it
again.

I could not help thinking of Robinson Crusoe when
he visited for the last time the wreck of his ship. I
rested but little that nig'.it, and had good reason to be
anxious; for if the river should come down at all, it
would be impossible to do any thing with the wagon
next day, and I could not expect any thing but to see a
tearing flood. If this had happened I should have been
utterly ruined, for nearly all my worldly property was
contained in the wagon. I sent a messenger to Mr.
Hughes, requesting him to assist me in my troubles with
men and oxen next day, although it was the Sabbath.

I had the gratification to find at day-dawn that the
river had fallen a little during the night, and had just
finished my breakfast when four Griquas came up,
bearing a long stout rope, which Mr. Hughes had for-
warded for my use. These men informed me that he
had sent men out in diflerent directions to seek for three
span of his oxen to be brought to my assistance. We
then set about getting the gear in order, and very soon
two spans of the oxen appeared with another party of
Griquas. We next made fast one end of the rope to
the dissel-boom, and to the other end of this rope we fast-
ened the large buffalo trek-tow, which reached slanting
ao"oss the strong current to shallower water where the
oxen could stand. We then brought in two span of
oxen, and fastened the end of their tow on the buffalo,
and put the oxen in motion. They laid a mighty strain
on the long tow, and the wagon moved slightly, when

TUE RIVER CROSSED. l25

a strong rheim, that with many turns fastened two
of the trek-tows, gave way, and left me once more in
trouble.

The river had at this moment increased about six
inches, and was now stronger than on the preceding
day ; moreover, it was still increasing. This put me
at once in great consternation ; my hopes, which a little
before were very high, now sank, and I expected in a
few hours, perhaps, to see my wagon overwhelmed and
swept away. This, however, was not the case ; the
river did not increase much more, and in our second
attempt we were successful. The trek-tows were on
this occasion knotted together, the oxen all trekked fair
and together, and the heavily-laden wagon, with its pre-
cious contents, was rescued from a watery grave. We
hailed its rescue with continued cheers : the oxen held
stoutly on, and dragged the wagon without a check
right out to the shallow water on the border of the
river. We then shortened the gear, and, having in-
spanned two after-bullocks, drove the wagon right out
of the river's bed, and outspanned on the top of the
high bank.

The next move was to get the other wagons through.
The Griquas at first made some demur, saying that it
was Sunday; but I very soon got rid of that objection
by telling them that I would prepare some food and
coffee for them, when they set to work with a good will,
and in two hours more the other three wagons were
brought safely through, and were high and dry.

On the 8th we entered the village of Colesberg. All
the forenoon I was busy off-loading two of the wagons.
We spread out the curiosities in the niarket-ground,
making no end of a parade : it was truly a very remark-
able sight, and struck all beholders with astonishment

m

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

On the 13th I left Colesberg, and set out on my way
to Grahamstov/n, passing on the 17th the Thebus flats.
On the march I saddled up, and, leavuig the wagons,
rode across the country for Hendric Strydom's farm,
where I had commenced ray sporthig career in South
Africa. As I rode across the flats I found springbok
and black wildebeest still abundant. On reaching the
residence of my former friend, I found the blackness of
desolation pictured there. The house was falling to
pieces, and the grass grew rank where the pot was
wont to boil. In a melancholy mood, I then turned ray
face for the farm where I had ordered my wagons to
halt ; and, as I rode along, I mused on the fleeting and
transient nature of all human condition. On the 25th
I reached Fort Beaufort, where I dined with some old
acquaintances at the mess of the 7th.

On the 29th we marched to the Fish River at dawn
of day. Here I found about sixty wagons waiting the
falling of the river to get through. Some of us set to
work to clear away a bank of mud on the opposite side,
after which a good many wagons, lightly laden, cross-
ed the river ; but on attempting to bring through my
large wagon, she stuck fast, and was at length extri-
cated with the help of another span. We saved her
just in time, for the riv^er was increasing fast when we
got her out, and in another half hour was running a
rapid torrent, at least ten feet deep. I found several
vrry jolly farmers, English and Scotch, lying on the
opposite side ; in particular, one Anneslcy, of whom I
had heard a great deal. This man was a regular
"brick," a thorough Scotsman from the borders. He
came up to me at once, and asked me to come and
have a glass of whisky with him: he was accompanied
by his family ; his eldest daughter was a very line girl

ARRIVAL AT GRAHAMSTO-\VN. 127

By the Isi of February the river had fallen most
rapidly. After some Avorlv in clearing av'ay the mud
on both sides, wagons began to cross, and a great rum-
pus was kept up during the remainder of the day. I
got my second wagon through about 11 A.M. Soon
after I had got through good old Annesley took the drift,
and on approaching the opposite side his wagon had the.
most fearful capsize in deep water, seriously damaging
a quantity of very valuable property. In an instant
we were all at his assistance, and in a very short time
we got out his wife and family and damaged cargo, and
righted his wagon for him. I brought him over dry
clothes, and spent about three hours in assisting him
in his difficulty. I then inspanned and trekked on to
Boatasberg, where I halted about midnight, with good
moonlight.

On the 2d I marched into Grahamstown, where I sold
my ivory well, the ivory and ostrich feathers realizing
in the market somewhere about £1000.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Start on another Elephant-shooting Expedition — The Hart River — Na
merous Pack of Wild Dogs — Mahura, Chief of tlie Batlapis — Rumors
of Wars — The Meritsane — Lotlokane — Encounter with two Lions on
the Molopo — Chouaney — A tremendous Fight with a Buffalo — The
River Limpopo — Huge Crocodiles — A splendid Hippopotamus falls
to my RiHe — Immense Herds of Buffalo crossing the River — The
Serolomojtiooqiie Antelope unknown to Naturalists — A Herd of
Hippopotami — Fine Sport beside he River.

I REMAINED in Grahamstown for some weeks, beinw
undecided as to my future plans. At last, however, J
decided upon making another elephant-shooting expe-

128

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

dition. I accordingly started for the far interior on the
11th of March, and, having resolved to try a short cut
through the territories of the chief Mahura, 1 crossed
the Vaal River on the 5th of May, far to the eastward
of my former track.

Early on the 7th we entered upon the broad strath
through w^hich the Hart River flows. Here we discov-
ered a small fountain, where we halted for the night.
We marched early on the 8th, holding up the strath
parallel with the Hart River. Presently we came upon
the largest pack of wild dogs I had ever seen : there
were about forty of them. They went off very leisure-
ly, and when my dogs chased them they turned about
and showed fight. We were in motion most of the
day ; very large herds of cattle were to be seen pastur-
ing on all sides.

On the 12th we marched before breakfast to within
three miles of Mahura. Having taken breakfast, I rode
ahead with Ruyter, and called on Mr. Ross, the resi-
dent missionary. We walked together to the town,
and visited Mahura and his brother ; the expressions of
neither of these men were at all in their favor. I told
Mahura that I wanted an ox with very large horns,
which he promised to provide. He asked me if Ave
were still at war with the Tambookie tribes. He also
mentioned that ten men of the Bastards had been shot
by Mochesse's natives. Mr. Ross informed me that
Mahura was at present meditating war upon a tribe to
the northeast, and also that Mochuarra, the cliief at
Motito, meditated an attack upon Sichely. In the
evening my wagons came up, when I directed them
to draw up in a grove of cameel-dorn about a mile be-
yond the town.

The next day Mahura sent a party of men to mquiro

THE CHIEF MAHURA. 129

who had given me permission to outspan where I now
stood, and ordering me to inspan and return to the
town. These men were very insolent and overbearing
in their manner. I accordingly at once assumed a very
high tone, and said that, if Mahura was particular as
to where I outspanned, he ought to have told me so on
the preceding evening; that as to returning, I would on
no account return ; and that if the chief's heart was
against me, I would not wait to trade with him, but
M'ould at once proceed on my journey. I also told them
that Mahura was not my chief, and that I cared not
for his words. They then became still more insolent,
and said that I should learn what Mahura could do be-
fore sunset, and they departed to report my words to
their tyrannical chief.

Mahura was sitting in the missionary's house : ac-
cordingly, I rode thither, and arrived along with these
men. On my words being reported, he was at first ex-
ceedingly wroth, and said that, in consequence of what
I had said, he would not permit me to proceed through
his country. I only smiled at these threats; and he
eventually cooled down, and took leave of us apparently
in good humor. In the evening he returned and took
tea with Mr. Ross and myself, and then accompanied
me to my camp ; he rode on horseback in a large white
great-coat, accompanied by his brother and two other
mounted attendants. I showed him all my rifles, with
which he expressed himself much pleased ; having drank
his fill of coffee, he took a friendly leave, promising to
visit me early next day.

True to his word, Mahura came and breakfasted
with me, after which I obtained six karosses from him
in barter for ammunition. I then presented him with
a whip-stick and two ;Ounds of powder, and walked

F2

130 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

do\yn to the missionary's house, ordering my men to
inspan. Mahura promised to come thither and take
leave of me, but did not keep his word. About mid-
day I marched, holding a spoor of three wagons some
months old, said to lead me into my old course at Great
Chooi.

On the 20th we reached the bank of the Meritsanc,
two miles below my old spoor. On the march we saw
for the first time spoor of the black rhinoceros, also pal-
lah and koodoo on the mountain, and hartcbeests on the
open country.

On the 22d we marched at early dawn, and, having
proceeded about four miles, left the main road to Bak-
atla, and held across the country to our right for my
old outspanning-place at Lotlokane ; two hours more
brought us thither. I did not find the vast herds of
game congregated here as usual, water being every
where abundant : the grass over the whole country was
remarkable, being much higher than my oxen.

On the 23d, when within two miles of the Molopo,
the dogs took up the scent of lions. I then halted my
wagons, and, having saddled up two horses, rode with
Ruyter in quest of them, accompanied by ten of my
dogs, who kept the scent for a short distance, and at
last lost it altogether, and went off on the scent of some
hartcbeests. I now rode forward to the Molopo, which
I made about one mile lower down than the drift. This
darling little river is here completely concealed by lofty
r^eds and long grass, which densely clothe its margin
to a distance of at least a hundred yards. On each
side reitbuck were very abundant. On making the
river we started one of these. I rode up the river side,
and immediately observed two old lions come slowly
out from the adjoining cover and slant off toward the

A >'OBLE PAIR OF LIONS. 131

reeds. 1 galloped forward to endeavor to get between
them and the reeds; in this I succeeded. The lions,
imagining that we were some sjDecies of game, did not
attempt to retreat, but stood looking in wonder until I
was within fifty yards of them, and right between the
last lion and the reeds. I was struck with wonder and
admiration at the majestic and truly awful appear-
ance which these two noble old lions presented.

They were both very large ; the first, a " schwart
fore-life," or black-maned lion ; the last, which was the
finest and the oldest, a " chiell fore-life," or yellow-
maned lion. The black-maned lion, after looking at
me for half a minute, walked slowly forward and bound-
ed into the reeds ; the dark-brown lion would fain have
done the same, but I was now right between him and
his retreat. He seemed not ait all to like my appear-
ance, but did not yet feel certain what I was, and, fancy-
ing that I had not observed him, he lay down in the long
grass. Ruyter now came up with my rifle. Having
loaded in the saddle, I waited a minute for all my dogs
to come up, they having gone off after the reitbuck,
and then rode slowly forward tov/ard the lion, as if to
pass within twenty-five yards of him. Not one of the
dogs was yet aware of the lion, and they came on be-
hind my horse.

This move on my part lost me the lion, for by so
doing I laid open the ground of retreat between him
and the reeds; and on coming within twenty or twenty-
five yards of him, and while in the act of reining in my
horse to fire, he took his eye off me, examined the
ground between him and the reeds, and, seeing the
coast clear, suddenly bounded forward, and, before I
could even dismount from my panic-stricken steed, was
at the edge of the reeds, which he entered with a lofty

132 ADVliNTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

spring, malcing the water fly as he pitched into it.
Several of the dogs entered after him, but immediately
retreated, barking over their shoulders in great fear.
Thus I lost this most noble lion, which, with better
management, I might easily have slain. I ought to
have approached him on foot, leading my steed, and I
ougnL not to have laid open the ground of retreat.

On the 27th we trekked to Chouaney, which we
reached at sundown, and remained there to trade next
day. I obtained from Sichely two natives to accom-
pany me to the Limpopo, their pay being a musket
each. I got also from the chief twelve elephants' teeth,
several very fine karosses, native arms, and other curi-
osities.

About mid-day we marched, and slept near the Ngot-
wani, along whose banks my course lay for the Lim-
popo. The country through which the Ngotwani twines
is soft and sandy, and in general covered with dense
thorny jungle, which greatly impeded our progress, hav-
ing constantly to cut a passage before the wagons could
advance. Several lions commenced roaring around us
soon after the sun went down.

On the evening of the next day I had a glorious row
with an old bull buffalo: he was the only large bull in
a fine herd of cows. I found their spoor while walking
ahead of the wagons, and, following it up, came upon
a part of the herd feeding quietly in a dense part of the
forest. I fired my first shot at a cow, which I wounded.
The other half of the herd then came up right in my
face, within six yards of me. They would have tram-
pled on me if I had not sung out in their faces and
turned them. I selected the old bull, and sent a bullet
into his shoulder. The herd then crashed along through
the jungle to my right, but he at once broke away frora

HUNTING ON THE LIMPOPO. 133

them and took to my left. On examining his spoor, I
found it bloody. I then went to meet my wagons,
which I heard coming on, and, ordering the men to out-
span, took all my dogs to the spoor. They ran it up
in fine style, and in a few minutes the silence of the
forest was disturbed by a tremendous bay. On running
toward the sound, I met the old fellow coming on to-
ward the wagons, with all my dogs after him. I saluted
him with a second ball in the shoulder ; he held on and
took up a position in the thicket within forty yards of
the wagons, where I finished him. He carried a most
splendid head.

On the Sth of June we made the long- wished- for fair
Limpopo an hour before sunset. I was at once struck
with this most interesting river : the trees along its
banks were of prodigious size and very great beauty.
At the very spot where I made the water, a huge croco-
dile lay upon the sand on the opposite side ; on observ-
ing me he dashed into the stream.

The next day I rode ahead of the wagons with Ruy-
ter, and hunted along the bank of the river. I imme-
diately shot a water-buck. This animal and pallah
were very abundant. As I advanced I found large vleys
along the river side, a favorite haunt of the water-buck.
After breakfast I again rode forth with fresh horses
with my Bushman. We still found water-buck and
pallah very abundant. I presently gave chase to a herd
of the former to try their speed ; but as they led me into
the midst of a labyrinth of marshy vleys, I gave it up.

At that instant the Bushman whispered, " Sir, sir;"
and looking to my right, two princely old buffaloes stood
in the jungle within forty yards of me. They got my
wind, and started before I could get ready to fire. They
held along the river bank ahead of me but not requiring

134 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

them I did not give chase. After this I carao upon a
huge crocodile basking on the sand, which instantly
dashed into the stream. I now got into a vast laby-
rinth of marshes of great extent. Several species of
wild duck and a variety of water-fowl were extreme-
ly abundant and very tame, hundreds passing before
my eyes at once ; Guinea-fowl, three sorts of large
partridge, and two kinds of quail being likewise nu-
merous.

I presently wounded a noble old water-buck as he
dashed past me in marshy ground. In following him
up I met an old buck pallah, which I shot dead on the
spot with a ball in the middle of the breast. Follow-
ing on after the wounded water-buck, along the high
bank of the river, which was, however, concealed from
my view by the dense cover, I suddenly heard a loud
splash, and, coming suddenly clear of the cover, behel-d
the lovely water-buck standing broadside on an island
in the middle of the river. Before I could dismount to
fire, he dashed into the water and swam to the opposite
bank. I grasped my trusty little Moore and waited
till he won the terra firma, when with one well-directed
shot I dropped him on the spot. A very strange thing
then occurred ; the buck, in his death-pangs, slid down
into the river, and, continuing his struggles, swam half
way across the river back to the island, where he lay
upon a sand-bank. I then divested myself of my leath-
ers, spurs, and veldt-schoens, and was wading in to
(etch him, when the river carried him off, and, fearing
the horrible crocodiles, I did not attempt to follow. It
was now late, and I rode for my wagon-spoor, which I
failed to find until I had returned to where we had that
morning breakfasted. I had been following the turns
of the river, and the wagons had taken a short cut

CROCODILE SHOOTING. 135

across the country. I reached them in the dark by
great good luck.

On the IGth I rode ahead of ray wagons at day-
dawn : thick mist was rolling along the Limpopo. Pres-
ently I saw two crocodiles in the stream below me. A
little after I had the pleasure to find, for the first time,
the spoor of sea-cows or hippopotami. I had never be-
fore seen it, but I knew it must be theirs ; it was very
similar to the spoor of borele, or black rhinoceros, but
larger, and had four toes instead of three. Before re-
turning to my wagons I tried to ride down a water-
buck, which I turned off from the river, but in this I
failed, though I managed to keep close to him in the
chase, and eventually to knock him up along with ray
horse.

I again sallied forth with the Bushman and fresh
steeds, and, directing the wagons to take the straight
3ourse, followed the windings of the river. Presently,
k)oking over the bank, I behold three enormous croco-
liles basking on the sand on the opposite side. I was
istonished at their awful appearance and size, one of
them appearing to me to be sixteen or eighteen feet in
length, with a body as thick as that of an ox. On ob-
serving us they plunged into the dead water by the side
of the stream. The next rainute, one of them popping
up his terrible head in the middle of the stream, I made
a beautiful shot, and sent a ball through the middle of
his brains. The convulsions of death which followed
A\'ere truly awful. At first he sank for an instant to
the shot, but, instantly striking the bottom with his
tail, he shot up above the water, when he struggled
violently, sometiraes on his back and then again on his
belly, with at one time his head and fore feet above the
water, and immediately after his tail end hind legs, the

136 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

former lashing the water with a force truly astounding
Clouds of sand accompanied him in all his movements,
the strong stream carrying him along with it, till at
length the struggle of death was over, and he sank to
rise no more.

Following the windings of the river, I detected a
small crocodile basking on the sand, when I gave him
a shot, and he instantly plunged into the river. A
little further on I wounded a third as he lay on a prom-
ontory of sand, and he likewise made the water. A
little further down the stream, yet another crocodile, a
huge old sinner, lay basking on the sand. I determin-
ed to make a very correct shot in this case, and set
about stalking him. Creeping up behind the trujik of
a prostrate old tree, I took a rest and sent the ball into
his nostril, when he plunged into the river, coloring the
water with his blood.

We now got into a fine green turn of the river, where
I saw a great many water-bucks. I shot one buck
pallah, and immediately after I came suddenly upon a
troop of five or six beautiful leopards. At the next
bend of the river three huge crocodiles lay on the sand
on the opposite side. Stalking within easy range, I
shot one of them in the head : his comrades instantly
dashed into the water, but he lay as if dead high on
the sand. A second shot, however, through the ribs
brought him back to life. On receiving it, he kept
running round and round, snapping his horrid jaws
fearfully at his own wounded side. In the convulsions
of death he made one run clean away from the water,
but another unlucky turn brought his head toward the
river, into which he eventually rolled. Galloping along
from this place to my wagons, I came suddenly upon a
lion and lioness lying in the grass below a gigantic old

mPPOPOTAMI AND BUFFALOES. ISj

mimosa. Dismounting from my horse, I took a couple
of shots at the lion, missing him with my first, but
wounding him with my second shot, when he rose with
several angry short growls and bounded off. A few
hundred yards further on I found my wagons drawn
up, and on reaching them my men informed me that
they had just seen two huge hippopotami in the river
beneath. Proceeding to the spot, we found them still
swimming there. I shot one, putting three balls into
his head, when he sank, but night setting in we lost
him.

At dawn of day on the 12th a noise was heard for
about twenty minutes up the river, like the sound of
the sea, accompanied by the lowing of buffaloes. It
was a herd crossing the river. I rode thither to look
at them, and was retracing my steps to camp, when,
within three hundred yards of my wagons, I beheld an
old bull buffalo standing contemplating my camp, with
my followers looking at him in great consternation.
They set the dogs after him, when he took away up
the river. As the ground was extremely bad for rid-
ing, being full of deep holes, and all concealed with
long grass, it was some time before I could get away
after the dogs ; and when I had ridden a short dis-
tance, I met them all returning, their feet being com-
pletely done up with the long march from the colony.

I now turned my face once more for camp, when I
heard one of my dogs at bay behind me. Galloping up
to the spot, I found my dog "Lion" standing baiking
at an old water-buck in an open flat. The buck, on
observing me, made away for the river, and, joining a
herd of does, they dashed into the stream, and were
immediately upon the opposite bank. I was in a se-
questered bend of the river, where tho banks for sfcveral

138 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

acres were densely clad with lofty reeds and grass, which
towered above my head as I sat on my horse's back.
Beyond the reeds and grass were trees of all sizes, form
ing a dense shade : this is the general character of tho
banks of the Limpopo, as far as I have yet seen. I was
slowly returning to my camp, in any thing but good
humor at my want of success with the game I had just
been after, when, behold, an antelope of the most ex-
quisite beauty, and utterly unknown to sportsmen or
naturalists, stood broadside in my path, looking me full
in the face. It was a princely old buck of the serolo-
mootlooque of the Bakalahari, or bush-buck of the Lim-
popo. He carried a very fine, wide-set pair of horns.
On beholding him I was struck with wonder and de-
light. My heart beat with excitement. I sprang from
my saddle, but before I could fire a shot this gem of
beauty bounded into the reeds and was lost to ray sight.
At that moment I would have given half what I pos-
sessed in this world for a broadside at that lovely ante-
lope, and I at once resolved not to proceed further on
my expedition until I had captured him, although it
should cost me the labor of a month.

The antelope having entered the reeds, I gave my
horse to my after-rider, and with my rifle on full cock
and at the ready, proceeded to stalk with extreme cau-
tion throughout the length and breadth of tho cover ;
but I stalked in vain; the antelope had vanished, and
was nowhere to be found. I then returned to my steed,
and rode slowly up the river's bank toward my camp.
I had ridden to within a few hundred yards of the wag-
ons, and was meditating how I should best circumvent
the serolomootlooque, when once more this lovely ante-
lope crossed my path. I had been unwittingly driving
him before me along the bank of the river. He trotted

THE SEROLOMOOTLOOQUE. 139

like a roebuck into the thick cover, and then stood
broadside among the thorn bushes. I sprang from my
saddle, and guessing about liis position, I fired and
missed him; he then trotted along a rhinoceros's foot-
path, and gave me a second chance. Again I fired,
and before my rifle was down from my shoulder the
serolomootlooque lay prostrate in the dust. The ball
had cut the skin open along his ribs, and, entering his
body, had passed along his neck, and had lodged in his
brains, where we found it on preparing the head for
stuffing. I was not a little gratified at my good for-
tune in securing this novel and valuable trophy; he
was one of the most perfect antelopes I had ever be-
held, both in symmetry and color. I had him imme-
diately conveyed to camp, where I took his measure-
ment, and wrote out a correct description of him for
the benefit of naturalists. I christened him the " An-
telopus E-oualeynei," or " bush-buck of the Limpopo."
The next day I breakfasted before the sun rose, and
then rode down the river's bank with Ruyter. I first
shot an old buck pallah, and, having ridden a few miles
further, came upon two fine old water-bucks fighting,
when I stalked in within a hundred yards, and shot
them both right and left. The heads wei'e fair speci-
mens, but, having many better, I reluctantly left them
to perish in the feldt. Hereabouts I found fresh spoor
of hippopotami of the preceding night. I followed this
spoor to a considerable distance along the margin of the
liver, and at last came upon the troop. They were
lying in a shady, seciuestered bend of the river, beneath
some gigantic shady trees. In this place the water
in heavy floods had thrown up large banks of sand, in
which they had hollowed out their beds. The spot was
surrounded with dense underwood and reeds, and was

140 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

adjacent to a very deep and broad stream, into which
their foot-paths led in every direction.

I was first apprised of my proximity to them by a
loud cry from one old bull, who took alarm at the sud-
den flight of a species of heron ; his cry was not unlike
that of an elephant. He stood in water which reached
halfway up his side, shaking his short ears in the sun;
every half minute he disappeared beneath the water,
when, again parading half of his body, he uttered a
loud snorting, blowing noise. On observing him, I dis-
mounted, and every time he disappeared I ran in, un-
til I stood behind the tall reeds within twenty yards of
him. Here I might have dropped him with a single
ball, but I unfortunately made up my mind not to mo-
lest them until next day, when I should have men to
assist me to get them out. Presently he observed me,
when he dived, and swam rouncf a shady promontory
into the deep stream, where he and his comrades kept
up a continual loud blowing noise. I returned to camp,
and, having ordered my men to inspan, I tried a drift
on horseback, and crossed the Limpopo, but, the water
coming over my saddle, I did not attempt to bring
through my wagons. We accordingly held on our
course on the northwestern bank of the river, and out-
spanned about a mile above the place where I had
found the hippopotami.

When the sun went down the sea-cows commenced
a march up the river. They passed along opposite to
my camp, making the most extraordinary sound:* -
blowing, snorting, and roaring, sometimes crashing
through the reeds, and sometimes swimming g''ntly,
and splashing and sporting through the water. There
being a little moonlight, I went down with my man
Carey, and sat some time on the river's bank contem.

SEARCH FOR HIPPOPOTARn. 141

plating these wonderful monsters of the river. It was
a truly grand and very extraordinary scene ; the op-
posite bank of the stream was clad with trees of gi-
gantic size and great beauty, which added greatly *to
the interest of the picture.

On the 14th, after a very early breakfast, I proceed-
ed with three after-riders, two double-barreled rifles,
and about a hundred rounds of ammunition, to the spot
where I had yesterday found the hippopotami ; but they
had taken alarm, and were all gone. The spoor lead-
ing up the river, I rode along the banks, examining every
pool until my steed was quite knocked up, but found
not a single sea-cow. The spoor still led up the river;
they had made short cuts at every bend, sometimes
taking the direct line on my side, and sometimes on the
other. Finding that I must sleep in the feldt if I fol-
lowed on, I dispatched Ruyter to camp for my blank-
ets, coffee-kettle, biscuit, &c., and fresh steeds. I
searched on foot, and penetrated every thicket and ev-
ery dense jungle of reeds that overhung the river, until
at last, faint with hunger and fatigue, I sought some
game on which to make a luncheon, and had the good
fortune to fall in with a young doe of the " Antelopus
Roualeynei," which I shot, and in a few minutes she
was roasting on a mighty fire.

Ruyter, at this moment coming up, brought a wel-
come supply of biscuit and coffee, and reported my yel-
low horse "Flux," about my very best, to have died of
horse-sickness. After luncheon I continued my search
for hippopotami, and just as the sun went down I start-
ed an old fellow from beneath some tall reeds, which
hung over a deep broad pool. On hearing me approach
he dived with a loud splash, and immediately reappeared
with a blowing noise a little further up the river, and

142 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

within twenty yards of the bank. Having looked about
him, he again dived, and continued his course up the
river, which coukl be traced from the wave above. I
ran in front of him, and when he came up the third
time I was standing opposite to him, ready with my
rifle at my shoulder. I sent the bullet into his brain,
when he floundered for one moment at the surface, and
then sank to the bottom. There he most probably only
remained for half an hour ; but in a few minutes night
set in, and I had thus the extreme mortifiGation to lose
ray hippopotamus, the second one which I had shot.
We slept beneath a shady tree ; at nrdnight a few drops
of rain fell, and I feared a drenching; it, however, pass-
ed away. In the course of the day we saw several very
large crocodiles, three of which I shot. One of these
lay upon an island ; I shot him dead on the spot ; he
did not gain the water.

CHAPTER XXV.

We cross the Limpopo — Rash Encounter with a Hippopotamns — Re«
niarkable dome-like Rock — Two Serolomootlooques shot — Hollow
Trees containing Honey — Gigantic Ant-hills — Hunting across the
Limpopo — Another Boa Constrictor — A Visit from Seleka — A Sea-
cow shot, which sinks — ResuiTection of the Beast — Splendid Hippo-
potamus-shooting.

On the 17th of June, having found a good drift, 1
crossed the Limpopo with my wagons, and drew them
up in a green and shady spot. I then rode a long way
down the eastern bank in quest of hippopotami, and
late in the evening I found one, which I did not mo-
lest, trusting to find him next day.

1 HERD OF HIPPOPOTAm. 143

On the 18th a dense mist hung over the river all the
morning. Ordering the wagons to follow in an hour,
I rode ahead to seek the sea-cow of the previous night,
but after a long search I gave it up as a bad job, and,
kindling a fire to warm myself, awaited the wagons,
which presently came up. Here I halted for two hours,
and then once more rode ahead to seek hippopotami.
The river became more promising for sea-cow. xA.t
every turn there occurred deep, still pools, with occa-
sional sandy islands densely clad with lofty reeds, and
with banks covered with reeds to a breadth of thirt}
yards. Above and beyond these reeds stood trees of
immense age and gigantic size, beneath which grew a
long and very rank description of grass, on w'hich the
sea-cow delights to pasture.

I soon found fresh spoor, and after holding on for sev
eral miles, just as the sun was going down, and as I
entered a dense reed cover, I came upon the fresh lairs
of four hippopotami. They had been lying sleeping on
the margin of the river, and, on hearing me come crack-
ling through the reeds, had plunged into the deep wa-
ter. I at once ascertained that they were newly start-
ed, for the froth and bubbles were still on the spot where
they had plunged in. Next moment I heard them blow-
ing a little way down the river. I then headed them,
and, with considerable difficulty, owing to the cover
and the reeds, at length came right down above where
they were standing. It was a broad part of the river,
with a sandy bottom, and the water came half way up
their sides. There were four of them, three cows and
an old bull ; they stood in the middle of the river, and,
though alarmed, did not app-'-ar aware nf the e.\to::{ uf
the impending danger.

1 took the sea-cow next me, and v.ith mv firs^t bail I

144 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH Al'RICA.

gave her a mortal wound, knocking loose a great plate
on the top of her skull. She at once commenced plung-
ing round and round, and tlien occasionally remained
still, sitting for a few minutes on the same spot. On
hearing the report of my rifle two of the others took up
stream, and the fourth dashed down the river ; they trot-
ted along, like oxen, at a smart pace as long as the wa-
ter was shallow. I was now in a state of very great
anxiety about my wounded sea-cow, for I feared that
she would get down into deep water, and be lost like
the last one ; her struggles were still carrying her down
stream, and the water was becoming deeper. To set-
tle the matter, I accordingly fired a second shot from
the bank, which entering the roof of her skull, passed
out through her eye ; she then kept continually splash-
ing round and round in a circle in the middle of the
river. I had great fears of the crocodiles, and did not
know that the sea-cow might not attack me. My anx-
iety to secure her, however, overcame all hesitation ;
so, divesting myself of my leathers, and armed with a
sharp knife, I dashed into the water, which at first took
me up to my arm-pits, but in the middle was shal-
lower.

As I approached Behemoth her eye looked very wick-
ed. I halted for a moment, ready to dive under the
water if she attacked me ; but she was stunned, and
did not know what she was doing; so, running in upon
her, and seizing her short tail, I attempted to incline
her course to land. It was extraordinary what enor-
mous strength she still had in the water. I could not
guide her in the slightest, and she continued to splash,
and plunge, and blow, and make her circular course,
carrying me along A'ith her as if I was a fly on her tail.
Finding her tail gave me but a poor hold, as the cnly

ENCOUNTER WITH A HIPPOPOTAMUS. 145

means of securing my prey, I took out my knife and
cut two deep parallel incisions through the skin on her
rump. Lifting this skin from the flesh so that I could
get in my two hands, I made use of this as a handle ;
and after some desperate hard work, sometimes push-
ing and sometimes pulling, the sea-cow continuing her
circular course all the time, and I holding on at her
rump like grim Death, eventually I succeeded in bring-
ing this gigantic and most powerful animal to the bank.
Here the Bushman quickly brought me a stout bufla-
lo rheim from my horse's neck, which I passed through
the opening in the thick skin, and moored Behemoth
to a tree. I then took my rifle and sent a ball through
the center of her head, and she was numbered with the
dead.

At this moment my wagons came tip within a few
hundred yards of the spot, where I outspanned, and by
moonlight we took down a span of select oxen and a
pair of rheim chains, and succeeded in dragging the
sea-cow high and dry. We were all astonished at her
enormous size ; she appeared to be about five feet broad
across the belly. I could see much beauty in the an-
imal, which Nature has admirably formed for the am-
phibious life it was destined to pursue.

We were occupied all the morning of the 19th cut-
ting up and salting the select parts of the sea-cow ; of
the skull I took particular charge. She was extreme-
ly fat, more resembling a pig than a cow or a horse.
In the evening I rode down the river, and shot a brace
of water-bucks, after which I left the river-bank and
rode to the summit of an adjacent hill, from which I
obtained a fine view of the surrounding country. Many
bold blue mountain ranges stood to the north and north-
west; to the east and southeast were also inonntain

Vol. II— G

146

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ranges ; while to the south a very remarkable light-
colored rock, in the form of a dome, shot high above the
level of the surrounding forest.

The next day, at dawn, I rode down the river side
to seek serolomootlooques, and ordered my wagons to
follow in a couple of hours. After riding a few miles,
I observed a serolomootlooque of surpassing beauty
standing on the top of the opposite bank of the river ;
he stood with his breast to me, and from the broad belt
of reeds on this side of the water it was impossible to
get nearer than a hundred yards of him. Taking a
deliberate aim, I fired olT-hand, and heard the ball tell
upon him. Here the river was deep, requiring swim-
ming, and I had fears of the crocodiles. I sent the
Bushman across, however, on horseback, who imme-
diately discovered blood, and presently came upon the
buck, and found his fore-arm smashed in the shoulder.
I went over, and, starting the buck in the cover, put a
bullet in his ribs. He then got into some thick reeds,
when I took up a position on one side, and ordered Ruy-
ter to beat up the cover. The buck broke near me,
when I sent a third bullet right through and through
his shoulder ; and the tough old buck still scorning to
fall, I quickly fired my other barrel, and most unluck-
ily cut his lovely horn off" at the base. The buck now
charged headlong into a thick bush, and died. His
head, before I destroyed it, was perhaps the finest along
the banks of the Limpopo ; the horns were of extraordi-
nary length, and had a most perfect set and tarn.

We now swam our steeds back to the saddlery, and
presently overtook the wagons. I deposited my dam-
aged trophy, and, mounting fresh steeds, rode once mora
ahead. I was not ten minutes away from the \\ apona
when I started another serolomootlooque, a first-rate old

A BULL ELAND SHOT. 147

buck, very nearly as good as the last. Imagining our
horses were some beasts of the forest, he turned to look
at us, when I shot him in the heart. The wagons being
close at hand, the buck was deposited in my larder, and
I once more rode forth.

After proceeding many miles along the borders of the
river, on emerging into an open space running parallel
with the stream, I came upon large herds of pallahs,
blue wildebeests, zebras, and, to my utter astonish-
ment, a herd of about ten bull elands. I was not aware
that they were met Vv'ith in these parts. I gave chase,
and soon selected the best bull in the herd, a ponder-
ous gray old fellow ; he began at once to trot, though
all the rest were still at a gallop. After a sharp ride
of a few miles I turned this eland, and brought him
back close on the river, when I shot him in the shoul-
der, holding out my rifle with one hand like a pistol.
I then rode back to seek my wagons, which I failed to
find, they not having come on as I had ordered. I fan-
cied that the natives had led them some short cut, and
that the river might have a great bend; so, being faint
and hungry, I rode back to the eland, where I had left
my Bushman, kindled a fire, and roasted and ate flesh
and liver of the eland. As night was coming on, I
skinned his side which lay uppermost that I might have
some covering, as I had neither coat nor waistcoat.
When, however, the sun went down, signal shots dis-
closed to me the position of the wagons ; they had como
oit within half a mile of where the eland died.

On the 21st I rode some distance down the river
with Ruyter in quest of sea-cow and serolomootloo-
ques ; we found fresh spoor of the former, and I shot
one doe of the latter. Ruyter drove her up to me by
beating the reeds ; he also started a fine old buck, which

148 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

did not break cover. As I rode along I saw six croco-
diles and a great nunnber of monkeys of two varieties ;
also several deadly serpents, one of them a cobra, very
similar to the Indian cobra. Bees were very abundant
along the Limpopo, the gigantic old hollow trees afford-
ing them abundant homes. My natives brought me
some fine honey while I was taking my breakfast ; they
found it in an old ant-hill. I was astonished to observe
along the banks of the river enormous trees, from three
to four feet in diameter, cut down by the Bakalahari
only for the sake of the honey which they contain. The
Bakalahari fell them with immense trouble and per-
severance, with little tomahawks of their own formation.

The ant-hills along the Limpopo and throughout this
part of Africa arc truly wonderful ; it is common to see
them upward of twenty feet high and one hundred feet
in circumference. They are composed of clay, which
hardens in the sun like a brick ; they have generally
one tall tapering spire in the middle of the fabric, the
base of the spire being surrounded with similar projec-
tions of smaller height. The natives informed me that
we were opposite to the tribe Seleka, whom they tried
to persuade me to visit, but I resolved to stick to the
Limpopo.

On the 22d we came upon the Macoolvvey, a large,
clear running river, joining the Limpopo from the south-
east : here I bagged a princely water-buck.

At dawn of the succeeding day I rode forth to try to
cross the Limpopo and hunt for serolomootlooques, but
failed to find a drift. I then rode some distance along
the bank of. the Macoolwey seeking a passage ; but I
was still unsuccessful. I then retraced my steps to the
Limpopo, determined to get through, cost what it might,
as the banks looked very promising for serolomootlou-

A ROCK 3ERPEXT SHOT. 149

ques. I discovered a drift, but deep. I relumed to
camp for fresh horses, and rode forth with two after-
riders, and a pack-horse carrying bedding, as I had re-
solved to hunt for serolomootlooques over the river for a
couple of days. We got safely through, and held up
the stream. I sought every turn of the water on foot,
the boys leading my horse, but failed to fall in with a
buck serolomootlooque. I therefore retraced my steps
down the river to a spot where buffaloes had drunk on
the preceding evening, and there spent the night.

In the morning I rode down to a likely cover for se-
rolomootlooques opposite the drift. Here I started one
old buck, but did not fire ; he went off barking exactly
like a roebuck, which they very much resemble in form,
gait, voice, and habit. Following on after this buck, I
started two does, one of which I shot. Here I left one
of my after-riders with two of the steeds, while I and
Ruyter rode down the bank of the Limpopo to explore.
I found the river wearing quite a different appearance
below its junction, being very much broader — nearly
as large, indeed, as the Orange River. Crocodiles of
enormous size were to be seen at every turn, and I shot
four huge fellows. We then fell in with a large rock
serpent, or " metsapallah," about eleven feet long, which
T shot with a hall through the head, and brought to
camp slung round my neck.

Havir g resolved over night to rob a colony of bees
of their precious stores, and to try for the old serolo-
mootlooque at the drift, I started on the 25th at day-
dawn, with two after-riders, one of them carrying a
large tin pail for the expected iioney. After crossing
the river I stalked carefully through the cover where
the serolomootlooque dwelt. I started him and another
iHick, but failed to obtain a shot. I then sent my after.

150 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

riders to beat up the cover, and they started them two
or three times, but I was still unsuccessful. We now
started for the bees' nest, which was in an old hollow
tree. I kindled a large fire in front of the hole, and,
having smoked them with dry grass, took out the honey,
which was excellent. I got, however, about fifty stings
on my hands and arms. In the afternoon I inspanned,
and crossed the Macoolwey a few miles above its junc-
tion with the Limpopo. The natives again tried hard
to lead me to Selelca, but I would not yet leave the
Limpopo, and accordingly sheered off to its banks,
which I reached by bright moonlight. Here we heard
hippopotami snorting in the river, and lions roared
near us all night long. Next day I had the luck to
shoot two very fine old buck serolomootlooques.

On the 27th I rode down the river at dawn of day,
and ordered my wagons to follow in two hours. While
riding along the river's bank, some distance beyond the
limits of yesterday's ride, opposite to a broad sand-bank
densely covered with reeds, I heard a loud plunge, which
was immediately followed by the welcome blowing
sound of sea-cows. I instantly divested myself of my
leather trowsers, and went down into the reeds, where
I came suddenly upon a crocodile of average size, lying
in a shallow back stream ; and on his attempting to
gain the main river, I shot him with a bullet in the
shoulder : he lay dead on the spot. This was the first
crocodile which I had managed to lay my han Is upon,
although I had shot many. The sound of my rifle
alarmed the sea-cows ; some took up, and some down
the river. I was unfortunate with them, shooting two
and losing them both. As I was seeking the wounded
hippopotami, my wagons came up. Soon after break-
fast, the chief Seleka, with a number of his aristocracy,

SEA-COW SHOOTING. 151

paid me a visit ; and in the afternoon I rode down the
river, ordering my wagons to follow, and found the
fresh spoor of a mighty old bull elephant.

I rode fortli at sunrise on the 2Sth, ordering my
wagons to follow in two hours. Seleka had sent men
down the river, before it was clear, to seek sea-cows ;
and they soon came running after me to say that they
had found some. I accordingly followed them to the
river, where, in a long, broad, and deep bend, were four
hippopotami, two full-grown cows, a small cow, and
a calf. At the tail of this pool was a strong and rapid
stream, which thundered along in Highland fashion
over large masses of dark rock.

On coming to the shady bank, I could at first only
see one old cow and calf. When they dived I ran into
the reeds, and as the cow came up I shot her in the
head ; she, however, got away down the river, and I lost
her. The other three took away up the river, and be-
came very shy, remaining under the water for five min-
utes at a time, and then only popping their heads up
for a few seconds. I accordingly remained quiet be-
hind the reeds, in hope of their dismissing their alarms.
Presently the two smaller ones seemed to be no longer
alarmed, popping up their entire heads, and remaining
above water for a minute at a time ; but the third,
which was by far the largest, and which I thought must
be a bull, continued extremely shy, remaining under
the water for ten minutes at a time, and then just
showing her face for a second, making a blowing like
a whale, and returning to the bottom. I stood there
with ride at my shoulder, and my eye on the sight, un-
til I was quite tired. I thought I should never get a
chance at her, and had just resolved to fire at one of
the smaller ones, when she shoved up half her head and

152 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

looked about her. I made a correct shot ; the ball crack-
ed loudly below her ear, and the huge body of the sea-
cow came floundering to the top. I was enchanted ;
she could not escape. Though not dead, she had lost
her senses, and continued swimming round and round,
sometimes beneath and sometimes at the surface of the
water, creating a fearful commotion.

Hearing my wagons coming on, I sent a message to
my followers to outspan, and to come and behold Be-
hemoth floundering in her native element. When they
came up I finished her with a shot in the neck, upon
which she instantly sank to the bottom, and disappear-
ed in the strong rapid torrent at the tail of the sea-
cow hole. There she remained for a long time, and I
thought that I had lost her, but the natives said that
she would soon reappear. Being in want of refresh-
ment, I left my people to watch for the resurrection of
Behemoth, and I held to the wagons to feed. While
taking my breakfast, there was a loud hue and cry
among the natives that the kooboo had floated and was
sailing down the river. It was so, and my Hotten-
tots swam in and brought her to the bank. Her flesh
proved most excellent. In the afternoon I rode down
the river accompanied by Ruyter, and shot one very
splendid old water-buck, with a princely head, which
I kej)t.

The next day, after proceeding a few miles, I killed
a very fine buck of the serolomootlooque. I again rode
down the river's bank, with two after-riders, to seek
hippopotami, the natives reporting that they were to
be found in a pool in advance, wher-'. another river join-
ed the Limpopo. After riding a shurt distance, I found
the banks unusually green and shady, and very much
frequented by the sea-cow ; and presently, in a broad,

SEA-COW SHOOTING. 153

ieep, and long still bend of the river, I disturbed the
game I sought.

They were lying in their sandy beds among the rank
reeds at the river's margin, and on hearing me gallop-
ing over the gravelly shingle between the bank and the
reeds, the deposit of some great flood, they plunged into
their native strong-hold in dire alarm, and commenced
blowing, snorting, and uttering a sound very similar to
that made by the musical instrument called a serpent.
It was a fairish place for an attack ; so, divesting my-
self of my leather trowsers, I ordered my after-riders
to remain utterly silent, and then crept cautiously for-
ward, determined not to fire a shot until I had thor-
oughly overhauled the herd to see if it did not contain
a bull, and at all events to secure, if possible, the very
finest head among them.

The herd consisted of about fourteen hippopotami ;
ten of these were a little further down the stream than
the other four. Having carefully examined these ten,
I made out two particular hippopotami decidedly larg-
er than all the others. I then crept a little distance
up the river behind the reeds, to obtain a view of the
others. They were two enormous old cows, with two
large calves beside them. The old ones had exactly
the same size of head as the two best cows below ; I
accordingly chose what I thought the best of these two,
and, making a fine shot at the side of her head, at once
disabled her. She disappeared for a few seconds, and
then came floundering to the surface, and continued
swimming round and round, sometimes diving, and
then reappearing with a loud splash and a blowing
noise, always getting slowly down the river, until I re-
attacked and finished her a quarter of a mile further
down, about an hour after. The other sea-cows wero

G2

154 AD"VENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

now greatly alarmed, and on'y occasionally put up their
heads, showing but a small part, remaining but a few
seconds at a time. I, however, managed to select one
of the three remaining ones, and, making a most per-
fect shot, sent a bullet crashing into her brain. This
caused instantaneous death, and she sank to the bot-
tom. I then wounded two more sea-cows in the head,
both of which I lost. The others were so alarmed and
cunning that it was impossible to do any thing with them.
The one I had first shot was now resting with half
her body above water on a sand-bank in the Limpopo,
at the mouth of the other river Lepalala, which was
broad, clear, and rapid. From this resting-place I start-
ed her with one shot in the shoulder and another in the
side of the head ; this last shot set her in motion once
more, and she commenced struggling in the water in
the most extraordinary manner, disappearing for a few
seconds, and then coming up like a great whale, setting
the whole river in an uproar. Presently she took away
down the stream, holding to the other side ; but, again
returning, I finished her with a shot in the middle of
the forehead. This proved a most magnificent speci-
men of the female of the wondrous hippopotamus, an
animal with which I was extremely surprised and de-
lighted. She far surpassed the brightest conceptions I
had formed of her, being a larger, a more lively, and in
every way a more interesting animal than certain writ-
ers had led me to expect. On securing this fine sea-
cow, I immediately cut off her head and placed it high
and dry : this was a work of considerable difficulty for
four men. We left her body in the water, being, of
course, unable to do any thing with it there. It was
well I secured the head when I did, for next morning
the crocodiles had dragged her away.

TWO HUGE SEA-COWS BAGGED. 155

I held up the river to see what the other sea-cows wero
doing, when, to my particular satisfaction, I beheld the
body of the other huge sea-cow which I had shot in
the brain floating in the pool where I had shot her, and
stationary within about twenty yards of the other side.
I then held down the river to the tail of the pool, where
the stream was broad and rapid, and less likely to hold
crocodiles, and here, altliough cold and worn out, I
swam across to secure my game. The wagons now
came up, and two of my Hottentots swam over to my
assistance ; but, just as we were going in to secure the
sea-cow, she became disengaged from the invisible fet-
ters that had held her, and which turned out to be the
branch of a gigantic old tree that some flood had lodged
in the bottom of the pool. The sea-cow now floated
down the middle of the river ; when she neared the tail
of the pool, we swam in and inclined her course to shore,
and stranded her on a fine gravel bank.

This truly magnificent specimen was just about the
same size as the first, and apparently older, but her
teeth were not quite so thick. Ordering the natives at
once to cut off her huge head, and having seen it de-
posited safely on the bank along with that of her com-
rade, I held for my wagons, having to cross the Lepa-
lala to reach them. I was very cold and worn out, hut
most highly gratified at my good fortune in first kill-
ing, and then in securing, t'YO out of the four best sea-
cows in a herd of fourteen.

loC ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

CHAPTER XXVI.

Seleka's Town among the Rocks — Elephant hunting with Seleka and
his Men — Trading with Seleka — A Lion and Lioness with tlieir Cuba
— An immense Herd of Hippopotami — Nine of them killed — Trap
for inflicting poisoned Wounds on Sea-cows — We cross the Limpopo,
and a Wagon sticks in the River — We trek down the Stream — Two
of my best Horses killed and eaten by Lions — The Chief of the Ba
malette visits me — Audacity of the Lions — A Horse killed in a Pit
fall — A Chief flogged for catching and consuming a Horse.

On the 1st of July I inspanned at sunrise and march-
ed to the town of the Baseleka, which I reached in about
four hours, having crossed the Lepalala on the way. I
outspanned on the bank of the river. Seleka's town
is built on the top and sides of a steep and precipitous
white quartz rock, which rises abruptly, and forms a
very remarkable feature in the green forest scenery
which surrounds it. In the evening Seleka brought
down four fairish bull elephant's teeth, which I bought
for four muskets.

On the morrow I took an early breakfast, and then
held east with Seleka and about a hundred and fifty
of his men to seek elephants, they having heard from
the Bakalahari of the position of a troop of bulls. This
day I might reckon as the beginning of my elephant
hunting this season. As the country appeared to me
well adapted for the sport, and as I regretted not a little
that my men and a good stud of horses should be idle
at the wagons while they might be bringing me in fifty
pounds once or twice a week, I armed and mounted
John Stofolus and Carey, both of whom vaunted much

ELEPHANT HUNTING. 157

of their courage and skill. I instructed them, in the
event of our finding, to select a good elepliant, and, if
not able to kill him, at least to hold him in view until
I had finished mine, which I promised to do as quickly
as possible, and then to come to their assistance.

We had not proceeded far from the white rock when
we entered a forest frequented by elephants, and we very
soon came upon the fresh spoor of a troop of about ten
fine bulls. The spooring was conducted very properly,
the old chief taking the greatest care of the wind, keep-
ing his followers far back, and maintaining silence, ex-
tending pickets in advance, and to the right and left,
and ordering them to ascend to the summits of the
tallest trees to obtain a correct view of the surround-
ing forest. Presently the mighty game was detected.
Old Schwartland was led alongside of me, and my dogs
were all in couples, eight in number. I quickly mount-
ed, and, riding slowly forward, obtained a blink of one
of the elephants. I called to the natives to slip the
dogs, and then dashed forward for a selection. I chose
the last, and gave him a shot as he passed me ; and
then, riding hard under his stern, I yelled like a demon
to clear him from his comrades and to bring the dogs
to my assistance. The dogs came as T expected to my
elephant, and I shot him from the saddle in a business-
like style, loading and firing with great rapidity; he
took from fifteen to twenty shots before he fell. All
this time I listened in vain for shots from John or Carey.
The former did not even consider himself safe in the
same forest with the elephants, and had slunk away
from Carey while in sight of a splendid bull; nor did
we hear more of him that day. Carey did but little
better, for he lost his elephant immediately, oae charge
being sufficient.

158 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

The natives were now fighting with an immense old
Dull: hearing them, I rode in their direction, and came
upon Carey stationary in the forest. Here the dogs
took up the scent of an elephant, and I followed them,
but they eventually dropped it. I then tried to retrace
my steps to the dead elephant, which I did by chance,
having lost my way in the level boundless jungle and
wandered far. I found a few natives, who reported
their captain and most of his men to be still engaged
with the elephant, and they said that Carey had joined
them in the chase. I ofF-saddled for a little, but, hear-
ing the cries of the natives in the distance, I saddled
old Schwartland, and rode onward till I found the na-
tives and Carey quite done up, and on the point of
dropping the game. The elephant, although red with
blood, and resembling a porcupine by the number of
the assagais, was little the worse for all that he had re-
ceived. I then attacked him, and, with eight or ten
shots, ended his career.

Next morning, Bakalahari coming up and reporting
to have heard elephants during the night, old Seleka
and I went in quest of them. We were joined by the
gallant and vaunting John Stofolus, who had slept at
the wagons, and swore that he had lost his way in a
long chase after an elephant. Both he and Carey ex-
pressing regret for their previous mismanagement, and
vowing to prove themselves men this day, I allowed
them to accompany me. We soon took up the spoor
of one old bull, which led us into a forest thoroughly
plowed up and broken with bull elephants. Here this
fine fellow joined a glorious squadron of from twenty to
thirty mighty bulls. When we discovered their position
I dashed forward, shouting to the dogs, and was instant-
ly in the middle of them. Then followed a wondrous

A MIGHTY BULL ELEPHANT SHOT. 159

scene. The elephants, panic-stricken, charged forward,
leveling the forest before them, trumpeting, with trunks
and tails aloft, as the dogs mingled with them.

Looking back over my shoulder, I beheld elephants
come crashing on behind and within a few yards of me.
I then pressed forward, overtook about ten bulls that
were inclining to the west, rode under their sterns, chose
the best, and, yelling at the top of my voice, separated
him from his comrades, and brought my dogs to my
assistance. In a few minutes he had many mortal
wounds. Not hearing my trusty John and Carey fire,
and the elephant's course being right toward camp, I
ceased firing and drove him on before me. Presently
these worthies came up to me, having been after a most
splendid bull — the cock of the troop — which I, in my
haste, had ridden by. They had fired two or three shots,
and then left him. I now saw that all my hunting this
season must depend on my own single hand, as my fol-
lowers, instead of a help, were a very great hinderance
and annoyance to me. If I had been alone that day I
should most certainly have taken more time, and have
selected the elephant they had lost, which the natives
said carried extremely large and long teeth. Presently,
my elephant declining to proceed further, and becom-
ing extremely wicked, I recommenced firing, and at
last he fell, having received twenty-nine balls, twenty-
seven of these being in a very correct part. This was
an enormous, first-rate bull ; but his teeth, though large,
being not the best in the troop, I felt very much dis-
satisfied.

On the afternoon of the 5th I traded with Seleka for
karosses of pallah's skin and tusks of elephants, and in
the evening I walked up to inspect the town, and climb-
ed to the summit of the quartz rock on which the cita-

160 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA. ,

del of Seleka is situated. Here I viewed the surround-
ing country ; chains of mountains of moderate height
shot above the level forest in every direction, but mostly
to the east and south.

The next day, after breakfast, I saddled up steeds and
took the field for elephants, accompanied by two after-
riders. We were soon joined by the greater part of the
Seleka tribe, and held about south, following the bank
of the River Lepalala, which we eventually crossed.
Having proceeded some distance through a tract but
little frequented by elephants, men who had been sent
to seek in a southwesterly direction came and reported
that they had found. We then held at once for a steep
and very rocky hill which rose abruptly in the forest,
and on the west side of which the elephants had been
seen. We had ascended about half way up this hill,
the natives following on in a long string and detached
parties, when we discovered that we had nearly hem-
med in a huge and most daring old lion, with his part-
ner and a troop of very small cubs. I had passed him
within about sixty yards, and was a little above him
on the hill before I was aware of his presence. He
gave us notice of his proximity by loud and continued
growling, advancing boldly with open jaws toward the
natives. These fled before him; and the lioness hav-
ing now shrunk away with her cubs, and some of our
dogs having attacked him, he turned right about and
followed slowly after his mate, growling fearfully.

We feared that all this noise might have started the
elephants: when, however, we had gained a command-
ing point on the shoulder of the hill, we could see them
standing in a thick low forest a short distance from the
base of the hill: it was a troop of very middling cow
elephants, with a number of calves of all sizes. About

ELEPHANT SHOOTING. 161

half a mile to the north we could see another troop of
cows. I wished to attack these, but the natives pre-
vailed upon me to attack the nearest troop. Leaving
the greater part of the natives to watch our movements
from this elevated position, I descended the hill and
held for the mighty game. I felt rather nervous on this
occasion. I was not in good health, and the forest here
was not well adapted for the sport, the cover being
thick, with a great deal of bad wait-a-bit thorns. When
we came upon the troop they were considerably scat-
tered, and we first approached two very indifferent
cows, which, hearing us, instantly retreated into the
thick cover. I would not follow these, but at once slip-
ped my dogs in the hope that they would find me better
elephants. The dogs then ran forward in different di-
rections, and immediately a loud trumpeting followed
from three detachments of cows. Galloping forward,
I obtained a view of them all. There was but one
right good cow in the troop: she brought up the rear
of a detachment which came crashing past on my right,
making for the densest cover round the base of the hill.
This cow carried two fine long white tusks, one of them
with a very fine sharp point. On attacking her she at
once separated from her comrades, and every one of
my dogs took, as is usual, away after the calves. I
galloped up alongside and very near this cow, and, firing
from the saddle, bowled her over with a single ball be-
hind the shoulder.

On the 11th we marched at dawn of day, holding
northeast, and halted on the bank of the Limpopo.
There the wagons remained, while I hunted tJK; banivs
of the river, bagging two first-rate bull elephants and
one hippopotamus. One of these elephants I shot across
the Limpopo, under the mountains of Guapa. I fought

1G2 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

him in dense wait-a-bit jungle from half past eleven till
the sun was under, when his tough old spirit fled, and
the venerable monarch of the forest fell, pierced with
fifty-seven balls. On the 17th I inspanned and trekked
about five miles down the stream, when I halted beside
a long, deep hippopotamus hole, in which were two
bulls and one cow, but it being late I did not trouble
them. ■•

The next day I rode down the river to seek sea-cows,
accompanied by my two after-riders, taking, as usual,
my double-barreled rifles. We had proceeded about
two miles when we came upon some most thoroughly-
beaten, old-established hippopotamus paths, and present-
ly, in a broad, long, deep, and shaded pool of the river,
we heard the sea-cows bellowing. There I beheld one
of the most wondrous and interesting sights that a
sportsman can be blessed with. I at once knew that
there must be an immense herd of them, for the voices
came from different parts of the pool ; so, creeping in
through the bushes to obtain an inspection, a large
sandy island appeared at the neck of the pool, on which
stood several large shady trees.

The neck of the pool was very wide and shallow,
with rocks and large stones ; below it was deep and
still. On a sandy promontory of this island stood about
thirty cows and calves, while in the pool opposite, and
a little below them, stood about twenty more sea-cows,
with their heads and backs above water. About fifty
yards further down the river again, showing out their
heads, were eight or ten immense fellows, which I think
were all bulls ; and about one hundred yards below
these, in the middle of the stream, stood another herd
of about eight or ten cows with calves, and two huge
bulls. The sea-cows lay close together like pigs ; a

HIPPOPOTAMUS SHOOTING. ^ 163

favorite position was to rest their heads on their com-
rades' sterns and sides. The herds were attended by
an immense number of the invariable rhinoceros birds,
which, on observing me, did their best to spread alarm
throughout the hippopotami. I was resolved to select,
if possible, a first-rato old bull out of this vast herd, and
I accordingly delayed firing for nearly two hours, con-
tinually running up and down behind the thick thorny
cover, and attentively studying the heads. At length
I determined to go close in and select the best head out
of the eight or ten bulls which lay below the cows. I
accordingly left the cover and walked slowly forward
in full view of the whole herd to the water's edge,
where I lay down on my belly and studied the heads
of these bulls. The cows, on seeing me, splashed into
the water, and kept up a continual snorting and blow-
ing till night set in.

After selecting for a few minutes, I fired my first
shot at a splendid bull,, and sent the ball in a little be-
hind the eye. He was at once incapacitated, and kept
plunging and swimming round and round, wearing
away down the pool, until I finished him with two
more shots. The whole pool was now in a state of in-
tense commotion. The best cows and the bulls at once
became very shy and cunning, showing only the flat
roofs of their heads, and sometimes only their nostrils.
The younger cows were not so shy, producing the
whole head ; and if had wished to make a bag, I might
nave shot an immense number. This, however, was
not my object ; and as there was likely to be a diffi-
culty in securing what I did kill, I determined only to
fire at the very. best. When, therefore, the sun went
down, I had not fired a great many shots, but had
bagged five first-rate hippopotami, four cows and one

164 , ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

bull, and besides these there were three or four more
very severely wounded which were spouting blood
throughout the pool.

The next day I removed my wagons to the bank
where I had waged successfal war with the hippopot-
ami. Here we iialted beneath a shady tree with a
very dark green leaf, and having drawn up the wagons,
we cast loose the trek-tows, and, marching the two
spans of oxen down to the edge of the river, dragged
out one of the sea-cows high and dry. After breakfast
I rode down the river with Carey to seek those I had
wounded. Having ridden about three miles down the
river, we heard sea-cows snorting; and on dismounting
from my horse and creeping in through very dense
thorny cover which here clothed the banks, I found a
very fine herd of about thirty hippopotami basking in
the sun ; they lay upon a sand-bank in the middle of
the river, in about three feet of water. After taking a
long time to make a selection, I opened my fire and
discharged my four barrels : one sea-cow lay dead, and
two others were stunned and took to the other side, but
eventually recovered and were not numbered with the
slain. I continued with them till sundown and fired a
good many shots, but only bagged one other cow: they
were very shy and cunning.

On the 20th I again rode down the river to the pool,
and found a herd of sea-cows still there ; so I remained
with them till sundown, and bagged two very first-rate
old sea-cows, which were forthcoming next day. This
day I detected a most dangerous trap constructed by
the Bakalahari for slaying sea-cows. It consisted of a
sharp little assagai or spike most thoroughly poisoned,
and stuck firmly into the end of a heavy block of thorn-
v.'ood about four feet Ions and five inches in diameter.

SEA-COW TRAPS. - 165

This formidable affair was suspended over tlie center of
a sea-cow path, at a height of about thirty feet from
the ground, by a baik cord which passed over a high
branch of a tree, and thence to a peg on one side of the
path beneath, leading across the path to a peg on the
other side, where it was fastened. To the suspending
cord were two triggers so constructed that, when the
sea-cow struck against the cord which led across the
path, the heavy block above was set at liberty, which
instantly dropped with immense force with its poison-
ous dart, inflicting a sure and mortal wound. The
bones and old teeth of sea-cows which lay rotting along
the bank of the river here evinced the success of this
dangerous invention. I remained in the neighborhood
of the pool for several days, during which time I bagged
no less than fifteen first-rate hippopotami, the greater
portion of them being bulls.

At dawn of day on the 28th we inspanned and
marched up the river to the drift. All hands worked
hard in cutting down the bank on the opposite side, the
Bakalahari assisting us ; and in the afternoon we got
the cap-tent wagon, which was very lightly laden,
through the river with twelve oxen. The baggage-
wagon stuck fast in the mud, and remained there all
night, with the fore-wheels half way up the bank, and
the after-chest under the water ; and although we put
twenty oxen to it, we could not get it out.

The next day our first work was to reduce the bank
on which the wagon stood, after which, with consid-
erable difficulty, we got it out with twenty of my best
oxen. The whole day we were busy drying the in-
numerable contents of the fore and after chests of each
wagon, almost every thing being thoroughly saturated,
and I sustained considerable loss in fine powder, per-

166 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

cussion caps, biscuit, tea, coffee, sugar, and a number
of other articles, some of which were damaged and
some entirely destroyed.

I marched at dawn of day on the 30th. Seleka and
his men and my hired Baquaines had done all in their
power to prevent my proceeding further ; but as they
could not conceal the waters from me, my course being
to follow the Limpopo, I was perfectly independent of
them. They remained by me until I crossed the Lim-
popo, and then all turned home. I was now once more
without natives, and held down the northwestern bank
of the river, but very soon Bakalahari joined us, and
their numbers increased as we held on. I had the good
luck this day to bag five more first-rate hippopotami.

The next day, after assisting my men to get out
some of the sea-cows, I rode down the river with two
after-riders to explore. Having ridden a few iniles, ]
came upon a troop of twelve, the best of which I dis-
abled and killed the next day. This was a most splen-
did old cow, and carried tusks far superior to any we
had yet seen ; in the afternoon I bagged six more.

From a continued run of good luck in all my hunt-
ing expeditions with my horses and oxen, in regard to
lions and Bakalahari pitfalls, I had become foolishly
careless of them, and I had got into a most dangerous
custom of allowing the cattle to feed about the wagons
long after the sun was under. I was always boasting
of my good luck, and used to say that the lions knew
they were my cattle, and feared to molest them. This
night, however, a bitter lesson was in store for me.
The sun, as usual, had been under an hour before I
ordered my men to make fast my horses : the oxen had
of their own accord come to the wagons and lain down ;
the. horses, however, were not forthcoming. My hired

TWO HORSES KILLED BY LIONS. 167

natives, who were now anxious to prevent my proceed-
ing further from their country, were willingly neglect-
ing their charge, and, instead of looking after my cat-
tle, were exchanging the flesh and fat of my sea-cows
for assagais, &c., with the Bakalahari. The night was
very dark, and the horses were sought for in vain. I
remarked to Carey that it was some time since we had
heard the voice of a lion ; but a few minutes after we
heard the low moan of the king of beasts repeated sev-
eral times at no great distance, and in the very direc-
tion in which my horses were supposed to be.

The next day the sun had been up two hours, and
my horses could not yet be found. I entertained no
apprehensions, however, from the lion, but rather sus-
pected some plot between Seleka and my natives to
drive my cattle back, and so force me to retrace my
steps. I therefore ordered John Stofolus and Hendric
to take bridles and a supply of meat, and to follow up
the spoor wherever it might lead ; and being anxious
to see which way it went, I took a rifle and followec
in quest of it myself. Observing a number of vul
tures to the west, and hearing the voices of natives ir
that direction, I proceeded thither at top speed. Tc
my utter horror, I found my two most valuable and
especially favorite veteran shooting-horses lying fear-
fully mangled and half consumed by a troop of ruth-
less lions. They were "Black Jock" and " Schwart-
land," the former a first-rate young horse, worth £24,
the latter aged, but by far my most valuable steed,
being perhaps the best shooting-horse in Southern Af-
rica ; he knew no fear, and would approach as near as
I chose to elephant or lion, or any description of game.
From his back I had shot nearly all my elephants last
year ; and so fond was I of this horse, that I never rode

168 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

or even saddled him until we had found elephants,
when I used him in the fight, and then immediately
off-saddled.

With a sickening heart I turned from this most pain-
ful scene, and, utterly dejected, I returned to camp. As
there was much to do about the wagons, and as two
of my men were absent seeking the lost horses, I did
not immediately go in quest of the lions ; this I, how-
ever, did in the afternoon, taking all my dogs, but I
failed to find them. A large party of the natives from
the southwest, the Bamalette, reached me late in the
day : their object was flesh, and to endeavor to per-
suade me to come and trade with them. They had
fallen in with three of my steeds ; the others were
found by my men near the drift where I had last cross-
ed the river. I formed a very strong kraal for my cat-
tle, and made all fast at sundown. Very soon after,
the troop of lions came up to my camp on the spoor of
the horses, fancying that they could repeat the tragedy
of last night ; they fought with my dogs in the most
daring manner, off and on, until near dawn of day,
driving them in to the fireside. The cattle were very
restive, and nearly broke away, but the kraal was good
and saved, them.

In the morning, ordering my wagons to follow, I rode
down the river, followed by at least two hundred na-
tives, to secure the hippopotami shot two days previous
Six of these were forthcoming, and we set about get-
ting them to the side : they lay upon the rocks in the
middle of the river. One of these proved to be an out-
and-outer, a tearing old bull, with tusks which far sur-
passed any thing I had yet seen, and quite perfect; I
was very much gratified with this fine trophy. There
were also two of the cows which carried immense and

A CHIEF FLOGGED. 1C9

perfect tusks. When the wagons came up, I found
myself minus another steed : a fine young mare had
fallen into a Bakalahari pitfall, and had been suffocated.

On the 5th I rode down the river and fell in with a
large herd of about thirty hippopotami : they lay upon
some rocks in the middle of a very long and broad pool.
I wounded seven or eight of these in the head, and
killed two, a bull and a cow, both of which we found
next day. At night the lions prowled around our camp,
and fought with the dogs until the morning: they came
boldly in between the fires of the natives, who lay around
my camp.

The next day I ordered my wagons to come on, and
rode ahead to the pool where I had last shot. When
the wagons came up, I detected the head Bakalahari
of the kraal beside which my mare had been killed ,
he was talking with my cattle herds, with whom he
seemed to be on very intimate terms. This killing of
my horse was either intentional or most culpably care-
less, as the pits were left covered, and the cattle driven
to pasture in the middle of them ; I accordingly deemed
it proper that this man should be made an example of;
so, calling to my English servant, Carey, to assist me,
we each seized an arm of the guilty chief, and I then
caused Hendric to flog him with a sea-cow jambok ;
after which I admonished him, and told him that if the
holes were not opened in future, I would make a more
severe example as I proceeded. The consequence of
this salutary admonition was, that all the pitfalls along
the river were thrown open in advance of my march, a
thing which I had never before seen'among the Bechu-
ana tribes. In the afternoon I rode down the river a fev/
pools, and found a very fine herd of about thirty hippo-
potami. I wounded three or four of these, and killed one

Vo,., II.—H

170 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

CHAPTER XXVII.

We trek down the Limpopo — Abundance of Sea-cows — The Lotsfino
River — An immense Herd of Elephants — Combat with a first-rate old
Bull — Rheumatic Fever attacks nie, which determines our Course
homeward — Elephants smashing Forest-trees — A Lion carries off one
of my Men from the Fireside — The Beast occujyied consuming him
all Night — The man-eating Lion slain — Three Hippopotami shot —
One of the Dogs eaten by a Crocodile — The fatal " Tsetse" Fly — The
Fountain of Seboono— An old Bull Elephant held in Check without
Gun or Dogs.

I RESOLVED now to ccase for a time hunting sea-cows,
and to trek ahead in good earnest. I accordingly took
considerable trouble in stowing the wagons properly
We then trekked down the river until sundown. 1
rode ahead of the wagons to explore, and was struck
with astonishment at the number of the hippopotami.
They seemed to increase the further I trekked down
the river ; every pool had its herd ; they were extremely
fearless, allowing me to approach within fifteen yards
of them. In the morning I found myself minus my
hired natives : these ruffians, fearing to receive a chas-
tisement similar to that of the chief of the Bakalahari,
which they felt they deserved, thought it best to get
out of the way in time, and had cut the service. The
chief Matsaca brought me ivory, which I obtained in
barter for muskets and some ammunition.

On the 8th we trekked at dawn of day, and after
proceeding a few miles came upon the Lotsane, one of
those gravelly-bedded rivers, with only water in occa-
sional spots, such as are met with in the Bamanajwato
country. Here was much spoor of elephant ; mid ihc

IMMENSE HERD OF ELEPHANTS. 171

natives pressing me to halt and hunt, I outspanned and
got every thing ready for a trip from the wagons.

The next morning I smarted with a party of natives
to seek elephants. We held along the banks of the
Lotsane for several miles, holding a northwesterly
course ; after which we left the river and held south-
west ; and at last followed down to the Limpopo, and
so home to camp, without finding a single fresh spoor.
Here I found my old friends from Bamangwato, Moll-
yeon and Kapain, with a party. I was glad to see
these men, as I knew they would assist me in my hunt-
ing, and they could also converse with me.

On the 10th, at dawn of day, I rode down the river,
and ordered my wagons to follow. I found sea-cows
more and more abundant ; every pool had its herd : the
margin of the river on each side was trampled down by
elephants, rhinoceroses, buffaloes, &c. Having ridden
about six miles, I found the fresh spoor of a troop of
bull elephants. I off-saddled, and in an hour the wag-
ons came up, when I took up the spoor, accompanied
by Carey, Hendric, and Ruyter. After following the
spoor for some miles, the natives lost it. A little dis-
tance ahead of us was a rocky hill, to the summit of
which I ascended. This spot commanded a good view
of the adjacent forest. I at once detected an immense
herd of elephants. They were drinking in a wide open
spot on a gravelly-bedded river which falls into the
Limpopo, called by the natives Suking.

We then made a turn to leeward and came in upon
this fine herd ; it was the largest I had ever seen ; tiiere
must have been upward of one hundred elephants be-
fore my eye at once. The troop consisted chiefly of
cov/s and calves ; I, however, detected one fine, well-
grown bull, carrying very fair tusks. I rode slowly
•

172 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

toward him, followed by my men, and the natives lead-
ing the dogs. We advanced unobserved until we were
within twenty yards of some of the outside cows. Here
I enjoyed a fine view of the herd : they stood drinking
on a vast surface of granite rock, and, though no trees
intervened between us and them, they took not the
slightest notice of us.

At length I gave the bull a shot in the shoulder, and
then followed him up. He stumbled, and fell once upon
the slippery rock, but, recovering his feet, went off at
a pace which I could hardly equal on the dangerous
rock. By good luck, most of my dogs came to my as-
sistance, and I slew him in a few minutes with eight
or ten shots. 1 had directed Hendric and Carey to try
to hold some of the cows for me until I was ready with
the bull ; accordingly, these doughty Nimrods followed
and turned four cows for a short time, and then left
them, without even firing a shot to advise me of their
course ; the consequence of which was, that I knocked
up myself, my dogs, and horses, in chasing the retreat-
ing herd to a great distance, to no purpose.

On the following day I shot another bull elephant
and a white rhinoceros ; and on the afternoon of the
12th, returning to camp weary and worn, I came un-
expectedly upon a bull elephant of unusual size, stand-
ing in the shade on the margin of the Limpopo. He
took refuge in an extensive jungle of impracticable wait-
a-bits, where it was impossible to do any thing on horse-
back, and I was therefore obliged to hunt him on foot.
I slew him with thirty bullets after an extremely severe
and dangerous combat of about two hours. I afterward
felt much the worse for this severe exertion.

On the 14th I dispatched Hendric to bring on the
wagons, which came up in the afternoon. Night set

ATTACK OF RHEUMATIC FEVER. 173

in warn., calm, and still, with a good moonlight. Ele-
phants, sea-cows, and panthers kept up a continued
music above and below us along the river until I fell
asleep.

On the 15th I felt very ill, but in the forenoon I went
down to the river, where I shot two sea-cows. In the
evening, feeling worse, I bled myself, but strong fever
was on me all night.

Next morning I marched, halting at sundown on the
Mokojay, a gravelly-bedded periodical river, where ele-
phants occasionally drank.

On the ISth, at dawn of day, I took leave of Moll-
yeon and Kapain of Bamangwato, as they would not
follow me farther. We then inspanncd, and held down
the Limpopo. I regretted to observe that the spoor
of elephants did not seem to increase in the same ratio
as I had allowed myself to imagine. We were in an
extremely remote and secluded corner of the world,
quite uninhabited ; yet the elephants, though frequent-
ing it, were decidedly scarce. I felt extremely weak
and nervous from the fever and the quantity of blood
which I had lost, in so much that I started at my own
shadow, and several times sprang to one side when the
leaves rustled in the bushes. I walked along the bank
of the river with my gun loaded with small shot, in-
tending to shoot a partridge for my breakfast. Pres-
ently I came upon the fresh dung of bull elephants,
and at the same moment my people at the wagons saw
two old bull elephants within two hundred yards of
them ; and the wind being favorable, they walked un-
suspiciously. After a very short chase I succeeded in
killing both.

My fever still continuing on me, and the natives hav-
ing deserted, I determined upon turning my face homo-

174 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ward. Accordingly, on the 21st, I ordered my men to
insjjan and retrace their spoor. A troop of lions had
killed some game within a few hundred yards of us,
and had been roaring very loudly all the morning :
these gave us a parting salute as we were inspanning.
Their voices sounded to me ominous, perhaps from the
nervous state of my health. I thought they said, " Yes,
you do well to retrace your rash steps ; you have just
come far enough." I must acknowledge that I felt a
little anxious as to the safety of proceeding further on
several accounts. First, the natives had spoken of
JNIoselekatze, now resident not very far in advance, as
one who would most unquestionably murder me, and
seize all my property. They also told pie that I should
lose all my cattle by the fly called " Tsetse;" and I had
also reason to believe the country in advance not very
healthy for man.

My followers received my orders to turn homeward
with sincere gratification: we trekked till sundown,
halting on the march for a sick ox, which we eventually
left behind a prey to the lions, and slept on the Moko-
jay, where'the Bamangwato men had left me.

On the 29th we arrived at a small village of Baka-
lahari. These natives told me that elephants were
abundant on the opposite side of the river. I accord-
ingly resolved to halt here and hunt, and drew my wag-
ons up on the river's bank, within thirty yards of the
water, and about one hundred yards from the native
village. Having outspanned, we at once set about
making for the cattle a kraal of the worst description
of thorn-trees. Of this I had now become very par-
ticular, since my severe loss by lions on the first of this
month ; and my cattle were, at night, secured by a
strong kraal, which inclosed my two wagons, the horses

A MAN-EATER LION.

175

being made fast to a trek-tow stretched between the
hind wheels of the wagons. I liad yet, however, a fear-
ful lesson to learn as to the nature and character of the
lion, of which I had at one time entertained so little
fear ; and on this night a horrible tragedy was to be
acted in my little lonely camp of so very awful and
appalling a nature as to make the blood curdle in our
veins. I worked till near sundown at one side of the
kraal with Hendric, my first wagon-driver — I cutting
down the trees with my ax, and he dragging them to
the kraal. When the kraal for the cattle was finished,
I turned my attention to making a pot of barley-broth,
and lighted a fire between the wagons and the water,
close on the river's bank, under a dense grove of shady
trees, making no sort of kraal around our sitting-place
for the evening.

The Hottentots, without any reason, made their fire
about fifty yards from mine ; they, according to their
usual custom, being satisfied with the shelter of a large
dense bush. The evening passed away cheerfully.
Soon after it was dark we heard elephants breaking
the trees in the forest across the river, and once or twice
I strode away into the darkness some distance from the
fireside to stand and listen to them. I little, at that
moment, deemed of the imminent peril to which I was
exposing my life, nor thought that a blood-thirsty man-
eater lion was crouching near, and only watching his
opportunity to spring into the kraal, and consign one
of us to a most horrible death. About three hours after
the sun went down I called to my men to come and
take their coflfee and supper, which was ready for them
at my fire ; and after supper three of them returned
before their comrades to their own fireside, and lay
down ; these were John Stofolus, Hendric, and Ruy-

176 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ter. In a few minutes an ox came out by the gate of
the kraal and walked round the back of it. Hendrio
got up and drove him in again, and then went back to
his fireside and lay down. Hendric and Ruyter lay
on one side of the fire under one blanket, and John
Stofolus lay on the other. At this moment I was sit-
ting taking some barley-broth ; our fire was very small,
and the night was pitch-dark and windy. Owing to
our proximity to the native village the wood was very
scarce, the Bakalahari having burned it all in their
fires.

Suddenly the appalling and murderous voice of an
angry, blood-thirsty lion burst upon my ear within a few
yards of us, followed by the shrieking of the Hottentots.
Again and again the murderous roar of attack was re-
peated. We heard John and Ruyter shriek " The
lion ! the lion !" still, for a few moments, we thought
he was but chasing one of the dogs round the kraal ;
but, next instant, John Stofolus rushed into the midst
of us almost speechless with fear and terror, his eyes
bursting from their sockets, and shrieked out, " The
Hon ! the lion ! He has got Hendric ; he dragged him
away from the fire beside me. I struck him with the
burning brands upon his head, but he would not let go
his hold. Hendric is dead! Oh God ! Hendric is dead !
Let us take fire and seek him !" The rest of my peo-
ple rushed about, shrieking and yelling as if they were
mad. I was at once angry with them for their folly,
and told them that if they did not stand still and keep
quiet the lion would have another of us ; and that very
likely there was a troop of them. I ordered the dogs,
which were nearly all fast, to je made loose, and the
fire to be increased as far as could be. I then shouted
Hendric's name, but all was still. I told my men that

AN APPALLING TRAGEDY. 177

Hendric was dead, and that a regiment nf soldiers could
not now help him, and, hunting my dogs forward, I had
every thing brought within the cattle-kraal, when wo
lighted our fire and closed the entrance as well as we
could.

My terrified people sat round the fire with guns in
their hands till the day broke, still fancying that every
moment the lion would return and spring again into the
midst of us. When the dogs were first let go, the stu-
pid brutes, as dogs often prove when most required, in-
stead of going at the lion, rushed fiercely on one an-
other, and fought desperately for some minutes. After
this they got his wind, and, going at him, disclosed to
us his position : they kept up a continual barking until
the day dawned, the lion occasionally springing after
them and driving them in upon the kraal. The horri-
ble monster lay all night within forty yards of us, con-
suming the wretched man whom he had chosen for his
prey. He had dragged him into a little hollow at the
back of the thick bush beside which the fire was kindled,
and there he remained till the day dawned, careless of
our proximity.

It appeared that when the unfortunate Hendric rose
to drive in the ox, the lion had watched him to his fire-
side, and he had scarcely lain down when the brute
sprang upon him and Ruyter (for both lay under one
blanket), with his appalling, murderous roar, and, roar-
ing as he lay, grappled him with his fearful claws, and
kept biting him on the breast and shoulder, all the
while feeling for his neck ; having got hold of which,
he at once dragged him away backward round the bush
into the dense shade.

As the lion lay upon the unfortunate man, he faint-
ly cried, "Help me, help me I Oh God! men, help
H2

178 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

me !" After which the fearful beast got a hold of his
neck, and then all was still, except that his comrades
heard the bones of his neck cracking between the teeth
of the lion. John Stofolus liad lain with his back to
the fire on the opposite side, and on hearing the lion he
sprang up, and, seizing a large flaming brand, he had
belabored him on the head with the burning wood ; but
the brute did not take any notice of him. The Bush-
man had a narrow escape ; he was not altogether
scatheless, the lion having inflicted two gashes in his
seat with his clav/s.

The next morning, just as the day began to dawn,
we heard the lion dragging something up the river side
under cover of the bank. We drove the cattle out of
the kraal, and then proceeded to inspect the scene of
the night's awful tragedy. In the hollow, whore the
lion had lain consuming his prey, we found one leg of
the unfortunate Hendric, bitten off below the knee, the
shoe still on his foot ; the grass and bushes were all
stained with his blood, and fragments of his pea-coat
lay around. Poor Hendric ! I knew the fragments of
that old coat, and had often marked them hanging in
the dense covers where the elephant had charged after
my unfortunate after-rider. Hendric was by far the
best man I had about my wagons, of a most cheerful
disposition, a first-rate wagon-driver, fearless in the
field, ever active, willing, and obliging : his loss to us
all was very serious. I felt confounded and utterly sick
in my heart ; I could not remain at the wagons, so I
resolved to go after elephants to divert my mind. I
had that morning heard them breaking the trees on the
opposite side of the river. I accordingly told the na-
tives of the village of my intentions, and having order-
ed mv people to devote the day to fortifying the kraal.

SEARCH FOR THE MAN-EATER LION. 179

started with Piet and Ruyter as my after-riders. It
was a very cool da.y. We crossed th-e river, and at
once took up the fresh spoor of a troop of bull elephants.
These bulls unfortunately joined a troop of cows, and
when we came on them the dogs attacked the cows,
and the bulls were off' in a moment, before we could
-even see them. One remarkably fine old cow charged
the dogs. . I hunted this cow, and finished her with two
shots from the saddle. Being anxious to return to my
oeople before night, I did not attempt to follow the troop.
My followers were not a little gratified to see me re-
turning, for terror had taken hold of their minds, and
they expected that the lion would return, and, embold-
ened by the success of the preceding night, would prove
still more daring in his attack. The lion would most
certainly have returned, but fate had otherwise ordain-
ed. My health had been better in the last three days:
my fever was leaving me, but I was, of course, still
very weak. It would still be two hours before the sun
would set, and, feeling refreshed by a little rest, and
able for further work, I ordered the steeds to be sad-
dled, and went in search of the lion.

I took John and Carey as after-riders, armed, and a
party of the natives followed up the spoor and led the
dogs. The lion had dragged the remains of poor Hen-
dric along a native foot-path that led up the river side.
"We found fragments of his coat all along the spoor, and
at last the mangled coat itself. About six hundred
yards from our camp a dry river's course joined tho
Limpopo. At this spot was much shade, cover, and
heaps of dry reeds and trees deposited by the Limpopo
in some great flood. The lion had left the foot-path
and entered this secluded spot. I at once felt con-
vinced that we were upon him and ordered the natives

180 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

to make loose the dogs. These walked suspiciously
forward on the spoor, and next minute began to spring
about, barking angrily, with all their hair bristling on
their backs: a crash upon the dry reeds immediately
followed — it was the lion bounding away.

Several of the dogs were extremely afraid of him,
and kept rushing continually backward and springing
aloft to obtain a view. I now pressed forward and
urged them on ; old Argyll and Bles took up his spoor
in gallant style, and led on the other dogs. Then com-
menced a short but lively and glorious chase, whose
conclusion was the only small satisfaction that I could
obtain to answer for the horrors of the preceding even-
ing. The lion held up the river's bank for a short dis-
tance, and took away through some wait-a-bit thorn
cover, the best he could find, but nevertheless open.
Here, in two minutes, the dogs were up with him, and
he turned and stood at bay. As I approached, he stood,
his horrid head right to me, with open jaws growling
fiercely, his tail waving from side to side.

On beholding him my blood boiled with rage. I wish-
ed that I could take him alive and torture him, and,
setting my teeth, I dashed my steed forward within
thirty yards of him and shouted, '•'•Your time is up, old
fellow." I halted my horse, and, placing my rille to
my shoulder, waited for a broadside. This the next
moment he exposed, when I sent a bullet through his
shoulder and dropped him on the spot. He rose, how-
ever, again, when I finished him with a second in the
breast. The Bakalahari now came up in wonder and
delight. I ordered John to cut off his head and fore-
paws and bring them to the wagons, and, mounting my
horse, galloped home, having been absent about fifteen
minutes. When the Bakalahari women heard that the

SHOOTING HIPPOPOTAMI. 181

man-cater was dead, they all commenced dancing about
with joy, calling me their father.

On tlie Cth of September, there being no flesh in
camp, I galloped up the river side to slay a hippopot-
amus, and presently heard a troop of them chanting
behind me : I had ridden past them and not observed
them. With these I was unlucky : I wounded six or
seven, but did not bag one ; they became very shy and
cunning after the first shot, only protruding their noses.
At mid-day I returned to camp and drank tea, after
which I galloped down the river to a favorite sea-cow
pool about a mile below my wagons : I was accompa-
nied by natives carrying my rifles. I found an im-
mense herd of at least thirty hippopotami lying upon
the rocks in the middle of the river. I shot the best
bull and two fine old cows, and wounded a fourth. Tho
bull and the two cows soon floated, and all three rest-
ed together on a ledge of rocks in the middle of the riv-
er. I then sent for John and Adonis, and with the as-
sistance of the Bakalahari we got them into shallow
water, where we could work upon them.

I was occupied most of the next day in superin-
tending the cutting up of the flesh of the sea-cows,
and reducing the same to biltongue, which we hung
in garlands upon ox-rheims stretched- between the
trees, surrounding them by a strong kraal of thorn-
trees.

In the evening a large party of Seleka's Bechuanas
arrived at my camp. On the 8th one of my horses died
of horse-sickness ; it was, of course, my favorite, being
my best shooting-horse. On reaching camp after my
last hunting excursion, " Lion," my very best dog, was
reported consumed by a huge crocodile, who frequented
the spot where we drew water : for such little pleasing

182 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

varieties the African hunter must make up his mind;
they are mere occurrences of every day.

I saddled up at an early hour, and went in quest of
elephants with Seleka's men. We crossed the Limpo-
po, and then held east through the forest for the strong
fountain called Seboono. I was unlucky here, however,
as I also was next day, although we hunted by a splen-
did fountain in a more southerly direction. When
under the mountains I met with the famous fly call-
ed " tsetse," whose bite is certain death to oxen and
horses. This " hunter's scourge" is similar to a fly
in Scotland called "kleg," but a little smaller; they
are very quick and active, and storm a horse like a
swarm of bees, alighting on him in hundreds and
drinking his blood. The animal thus bitten pines away
and dies at periods varying from a week to three months,
according to the extent to which he has been bitten.

On the 10th the chief Pocoolway arrived with a large
retinue: he was a short, stout man, of a prepossessing
expression, and both in appearance and manner much
reminded me of a certain Scottish earl.

After three or four days' unsuccessful hunting, I re-
solved on the 14th, there being good moonlight, to try
what might be done with the elephants by night-shoot-
ing at the fountains, and I determined to make Carey
shoot with me, he using the big rifle of six to the pound,
and I my single-barreled two-grooved of eight to tho
pound. In the forenoon we were occupied making very
hard bullets and sorting our ammunition, &c., &c., for
a week's expedition, and at mid-day we started, follow-
ed by about sixty natives. We crossed the Limpopo,
and held about east, right away through the forest, for
the fountain which I had visited on the 8th. On our
line of march we found no fresh spoor : the day was ex.

A PAIR OF NOBLE BULL ELEPHANTS. 183

Ixemely hot, and the shuffling Becliuanas chose to lag
behind in the forest until they lost me entirely, with
the exception of three or four, who kept up with Piet
my after-rider, carrying my gun, and leading "Filbert"
and " Frochum," two of my best dogs. Not one of
these men knew the country, and they had no Baka-
labari with tiiem to act as guides. When I reach-
ed the small fountain which lies west of the famous
fountain for which I was steering, I told Piet to come
on with the natives, and that I would ride ahead to
the large fountain. I then galloped ahead, and made
the fountain on its lee side. On slowly emerging from
the thorny thicket through which I rode, I was aston-
ished to behold two superb old bull elephants standing
before me in the open space betwen the cover and the
fountain. Both of them carried enormous tusks; one
bull, however, was much taller and stouter than his
comrade; I had very rarely seen his match, and his
tusks at once took my eye as being perhaps the finest
[ had ever beheld. Here, then, was I standing, without
2^n or dogs, and with a very jaded steed, beside, as I
afterward had good reason to believe, the very best ele-
phant in all that district, and in perhaps many of the
surrounding parts. I would have given any thing at
that moment for my gun and dogs.

I felt much perplexed what to do, but at length re-
solved that it was best to hold the elephants in my view,
and in the event of their being started to endeavor to
hold the larger bull in play, and hunt him always back
toward the fountain, until assistance should arrive. It
was well that I camQ to so shrewd a resolution, foi I
had not stood sentry over them for many minutes, wjien,
some straggling party having missed the fountain, and
passing to windward, they suddenly tossed up their

184 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

trunks, and, snuffing the tainted gale, crashed past me
down the wind at top speed.

Now came the tug of war. I had no child's play be-
fore me: alone and unassisted, and on a very jaded steed,
I had resolved to endeavor what no two of my men
had ever accomplished for me. I had not only to stick
by the elephant wherever he chose to go, which was all
I required of my people when endeavoring to assist mo
in my hunting, but I must also drive him back and
keep him by the fountain, or else all my exertions would
be fruitless.

I had very slight hope of success ; but he was well
worthy of a tough struggle, and I determined that he
should have it. I thought what my feelings would be
that night by my fireside if I let him escape, and, on
the other hand, how highly I should prize his noble tro-
phies if I succeeded. I at once dashed after him and
separated him from his comrade. When he found that
I had the speed of him, he turned at once upon me and
charged furiously back toward the fountain, after which
he tried to conceal himself among the trees, and, hav-
ing stood motionless for some time with his head to-
ward me, crashed away through the forest to the south-
ward. I soon headed him again, yelling with all my
might. Of course another charge followed : I eventu-
ally managed, however, to drive him back close to the
fountain; still, no assistance hove in sight. My after-
rider, though he had been there before, had missed the
fountain. It was he and the natives with him who had
started the elephants : they had crossed the fountain to
windward, and were wandering about with my gun and
dogs some miles beyond me.

It were long to describe all the turns and twists I had
with this princely old bull. I certainly did my duty,

AN UNARMED ENCOUNTER. 185

and stuck by him like a good old deer-honnd by his
stag. At length the elephant became extremely fierce,
following up his charges with most determined intent to
crush me and my steed, which, at first very much jad-
ed, was now so completely done up that he could barely
hold his own. I myself felt much exhausted, and my
throat was becoming so sore and hoarse that my shout-
ing was for the present nearing to a close. In this state
of things I could not have held him much longer. Help
was, however, at hand. Carey and Mutch uisho, with
a large party of the natives, were at this moment care-
fully following up the spoor of my horse where 1 had
first ridden ahead to the fountain, and were pa.ssing a
considerable distance to leeward of wdiere I was at bay,
or rather, I should say, baying, wdien my hoarse voice
fell on Carey's ear, and he instantly called silence
among the natives, and sat listening in his saddle. A
second time my voice fell on his ear, and he at once
held forward right for me, contrary to the opinion of
the thick-headed natives, who swore that the voice
came from behind.

Fortunately, at this very moment the elephant made
a furious charge after me, accompanied by a temendons
trumpet, which at once sealed his fate. They all heard
it, and "Cooley" and "Affriar," two right good dogs,
were instantly released from the couples and flew to my
assistance, followed by Carey and the natives. Right
glad was I when I saw black Cooley come up to help
me. I at once felt that the elephant was mine, being
certain that further assistance was at hand, and, with
revived spirits, I yelled with all my might. In two
minutes up came Carey on horseback, but without a
gun. I called out to him, " For God's sake, Carey,
bring me a gun ! here is the finest elephant in Africa ;

1S6 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

I have held him at bay and fought with him for .learly
two hours." Carey rode back and brought me his
single-barreled smooth bore, carrying twelve to the
pound, and gave me eight bullets out of his belt, ex-
pressing immense regret that my gun was not forth-
coming. Carey had always an absurd idea that his
gun could not kill an elephant: to-day, however, it was
in other hands. " My good fellow," I said, " it is all
right; the elephant is ours."

I then opened my fire on him from the saddle. 1
put my seventh bullet through his heart: on receiving
it, he made a short charge, and stood trembling for a
few seconds, when he fell forward on his breast and so
lay; but evincing a desire to alter his position, which
was a very good one for cutting out the teeth, I dis-
mounted, and, going close up to him, I put two bullets
into his ear, when he expired. The tusks of this elephant
equaled my expectations; one of them, as usual, was
more perfect than its fellow. I had never seen their
match but once. On reviewing the whole afternoon's
work, I considered myself extremely fortunate in cap-
turing this noble prize, and felt most gratified with the
satisfactory termination of my exertions. Piet and his
party heard my shots, and they presently came up to
us; coffee and other good things were soon spread out
on a sheep-skin, and a comfortable sofa being quickly
constructed of soft grass, covered with a kaross, I lay
down to rest, the happiest of the happy.

The 15th was an extremely hot day. Carey and I
were occupied all the morning cutting out the tusks of
the big bull elephant; we took particular care not to
let the blood fall upon them. In the evening we made
hiding-places beside the fountain from which to shoot
elephants, and when the sun went down we returned

ELEPHANT HUNTING. 187

thitlier and took np our positions for the night. Un-
fortunately, the dead elephant lay directly to wind-
ward of the southern margin of the fountain, on which
side were all the best elephant foot-paths. The conse-
quence was, that every elephant as he came up got the
wind of the natives, and turned right about. Late in
the night a troop of eight or ten bull elephants walked
slowly across the vley with their heads to the north. I
rushed forward to get before them in the wind, and
running down the edge of the thorn cover, I got with-
in thirty yards of the last bull, which was the best in
the trof^p. Ob.serving me move, he stood with his tusks
up and his head directed toward me in a very suspi-
cious manner for two minutes, when his fears died away,
and he turned to me his left side. I then gave him a
deadly shot, which brought blood from his trunk, as I
ascertained next day. Returning from firing at him, I
met Carey; his pluck had failed him, and he had drop-
pel behind. On upbraiding him for not standing by me,
he swore stoutly*that he had stuck in the mud I as we
had to cross a bog below the fountain in running for the
shot. I thought this was good, and I said to myself,
" I have got a name for you at last." But Carey was
a good servant, and very attentive to me throughout
my expedition.

The next morning I and Mutchuisho took up the
spoor of my wounded elephant. He had gone off very
slowly, with blood running from his trujik. After fol-
lowing the s])0()r some distance, we lost it among others,
and we then gave it up. I sent Cji rey to t he wagnns with
the t(;eth,T.o act as escort, they being well worthy of an
escort, nnJ at night I watched the fountain along with
three Bakalahari. We had not been long on the watch
before three enormous old bull elephants came ; and, aft-

188 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

er much hesitation, and walking once or twice round the
water, they came in and commenced drinking. I lay
close to the edge of the fountain in a little hollow. The
elephants came in to drink on the north side of a run
which led away from the fountain, and I lay on the
south side of it. Suddenly the finest bull of the three
walked boldly through the run and came straight for-
ward to where I lay. If I had remained still he would
have walked upon me; but when he came within six
or eight yards I gave a loud cough, upon which he tossed
his head aloft and gave me a broadside, exposing his
left side. I then gave him a shot from the bio: two-
grooved rifle, and he dashed off with his two comrades
in immense consternation, holding for the Limpopo.

The next day one of my steeds died of " tsetse." He
had been bitten under the mountain range lying to the
south of this fountain. The head and body of the poor
animal swelled up in a most distressing manner before
he died. His eyes were so swollen that he could not
see, and in darkness he neighed for his comratles wdio
stood feedinor beside him.

PAAPAA FOUNTAIN. 189

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Paapaa Fountein — Watch by Moonlight from a Shooting-hole — Re-
markable Sport with Elephants — Four bagged and eight mortally
wounded in one Night — Elephant Hunting with Horse and Dogs by
Moouliglit — A Troop of Lions — The Vultures with the shadowy
Wings — Another Dog snapped up by a Crocodile — Tiie Skeleton of
an Elephant shot by me discovered — The Tusks being gone, strong
Measures are adopted for their Recovery.

On the 17th of September I resolved to leave the
fountain of Seboono, as it was nniuch disturbed, and to
proceed with a few Balvalahari to a small yet famous
water about six miles to the southeast. We accord-
ingly saddled up and held thither. On reaching this
fountain, which is called by the natives " Paaj)aa," I
found the numerous foot-paths leading to it covered, as
1 had anticipated, with fresh spoor of elephant and rhi-
noceros. I then at once proceeded to study the best
spot on which to make our shooting-hole for the night.
It would be impossible to prevent some of the game
from getting our wind, for the foot-paths led to it from
every side. The prevailing wind was from the east,
so I pitched upon the southwest corner of the fountain.
The water was not more than twenty yards long and
ten broad. The west side was bounded by tufous rock,
which rose abruptly from the water about five feet high.
The top of this rock was level with the surrounding
vley, and here all the elephants drank, as if suspicious
of treading on the muddy margin on the other three
sides of the fountain. I made our shooting-box within
six or eight yards of the water, constructing it in a cir-

190

ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

cular form, of bushes packed together so as to form a
hedge about three feet high. On the top of the hedge
I placed heavy dead old branches of trees, so as to form
a fine clear rest for our rifles; these clean old branches
were all lashed firmly together with strips of thorn bark.
All being completed, I took the Bakalahari and our
steeds to a shady tree, about a quarter of a mile to lee-
ward of the fountain, where we formed a kraal and off-
saddled. This day was particularly adapted to bring
game to the water, the sun being extremely powerful,
and a hot dry wind prevailing all the afternoon. I told
Carey that we were certain of having a good night's
sport, and I was right, for we undoubtedly had about
the finest night's sport and the most wonderful that was
ever enjoyed by man.

A little before the sun went down, leaving our kraal,
we held to the fountain, having with us our heavy-met-
aled rifles, karosses, and two Bakalahari. We also had
two small guns, my double-barreled "Westlcy Richards,
and Carey's single-barreled gun. As we approached
the fountain, a stately bull giraffe stood before us ; the
heat of the day had brought him thither, but he feared
to go in and drink ; on observing us, he walked slowly
away. Two jackals were next detected. Guinea-fowl,
partridges, two or three sorts of pigeon and turtle-dove,
and small birds in countless thousands, were pouring
in to drink from every airt, as we walked up to our
hiding-place and lay down. In a few minutes the sun
was under; but the moon was strong and high (it being
within throe nights of the full), and the sky was clear,
with scarcely a cloud. Very soon a step was heard ap-
proaching from the east : it was a presuming black rhi-
noceros. He came up within ten yards of the hiding-
hole, and, observing us with his sharp prying eye, at

THE OLD DUTCH RIFIE BURSTS. 191

once camo slowly forward for a nearer inspection. I
then shouted to him; but this he did not heed in the
slightest. I then sprang up and waved my large ka-
ross, shouting at the same time. This, however, only
seemed to amuse Borele, for he stood within four yards
of us, \vith his horn threatening our momentary de-
struction, nor would he wheel about until I threw a
log of wood at him. Black rhinoceroses are very dif-
ficult to scare when they do not get the wind ; the
best way to do so is to hit them with a stone — that is,
in the event of the sportsman not washing to fire off
his gun.

Soon after Borele departed four old bull elephants
drew near from the south. They were coming right on
for the spot where we lay, and they seemed very likely
to walk over the top of us. We therefore placed our
two big rifles in position, and awaited their forward
movement with intense interest. On they came, with
a slow and stately step, until w^ithin twenty yards of
us, when the leading elephant took it into his head to
pass to leeward. We let him come on until he got
our wind ; he was then within ten yards of the muz-
zles of our heavy-metaled rifles ; on winding us, he
tos?ed his trunk aloft, and we instantly fired together.
I caught him somewhere about the heart, and my big
six-pound rifle burst in Carey's hands, very nearly kill-
ing us both. The elephant, on being fired at, wheeled
about, and retreated to the forest at top speed. I now
directed " Stick-in-the-mud" to make use of his single-
barreled twelve to the pound in the event of more ele-
phants coming up; and thanking my stars that the old
Dutch rifle had not sent us both to the land of the leal,
I sat down and ^vatchec. the dark masses of tresis that
cut the sky on every side, in the hope of seeing a mass

193 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

as high and wide come towering forward into the open
space that surrounded the fountain.

Nor did I watch long in vain, for very soon three
princely bull elephants appeared exactly where the first
came on, and holding exactly the same course. They
approached just as the first had done. When the lead-
ing elephant came within ten yards of us, he got our
wind and tossed up his trunk, and was wheeling round
to retreat, when we fired together, and sent our bullets
somewhere about his heart. He ran two hundred yards
and then stood, being evidently dying. His comrades
halted likewise, but one of them, the finest of the three,
almost immediately turned his head once more to the
fountain, and very slowly and warily came on. We
now heard the wounded elephant utter the cry of death,
and fall heavily on the earth. Carey, whose ears were
damaged by the bursting of the big rifle, did not catch
this sound, but swore that the elephant which now so
stealthily approached the water was the one at which
we had fired.

It was interesting to observe this grand old bull ap-
proach the fountain : he seemed to mistrust the very
earth on which he stood, and smelt and examined with
his trunk every yard of the ground before he trod on
it, and sometimes stood five minutes on one spot with-
out moving. At length, having gone round three sides
of the fountain, and being apparently satisfied as to the
correctness of every thing, he stepped boldly forward
on to the rock on the west, and, walking up within si.Kt
or seven yards of the muzzles of our rifles, turned his
broadside, and, lowering his trunk into the water, drew
up a volume of water, which he threw over his back
and shoulders to cool his person. This operation he re-
peated two or three times, after which he commenced

AN ELEPHANT PLAYING WITH FIRE. 193

drinking, by drawing the water into his trunk and then
pouring it into his mouth. I determined to break his
leg if possible ; so, covering the limb about level with
the lower line of his body, I lired, Carey firing for his
h(;art. I made a lucky shot ; and as the elephant turn-
ed and attempted to make away, his leg broke with a
loud crack, and he stood upon his three sound ones.
At once disabled and utterly incapable of escaping,
he stood statue-lilce beside the fountain, within a few
yards of where he had got the shot, and only occasion-
ally made an attempt at locomotion.

The patch of my rifle fired at this elephant's comrade
had ignited a large ball of dry old dung, about eight
yards to leeward of our kraal, and, fanned by the breeze
it was now burning away very brightly, the sparks fly-
ing in the wind. Presently, on looking about me, I
beheld two bull elephants approaching by the self-same
foot-path which the others had held. The first of these
was a half-grown bull, the last was an out-and-out old
fellow with enormous tusks. They came on as the
first had done, but seemed inclined to pass to wind-
ward of us. The young bull, however, observed the
fire ; he at once walked up to it, and, smelling at it
with his trunk, seemed extremely amused, and in a
gamboling humor threw his trunk about, as if not
knowing what to think of it. The larger bull now
came up, and exposed a fine broadside : we took him
behind the shoulder and fired together : on receiving
the shots, he wheeled about and held west with droop-
ing ears, evidently mortally wounded.

Some time after this I detected an enormous old bull
elephant approaching from the west. If we lay still
where we were, he must in a few minutes get our wind,
so we jumped up and ran forward out of his line of

Vol. n— I

194 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

march. Here a borele opposed our farther progress,
and we had to stone him out of our way. The ele-
phant came on, and presently got the wind of where
we had been lying. This at once seemed to awaUe his
suspicions, for he stood still among the trees, stretching
his trunk from side to side to catch the scent, and
doubtful whether he should advance or retreat. We
then ran toward him, and stalked in within forty yards
of where he stood, and, taking up a position behind a
bush, awaited his forward movement. The elephant
came slowly forward, and I thought would pass to wind-
ward of us, when he suddenly altered his course, and
walked boldly forward right for where we stood. He
came on until within seven or eight yards, when I
coughed loudly to turn him. He tossed up his trunk
and turned quickly round to fly ; as he turned, how-
ever, we fired together, when the elephant uttered a
shrill cry of distress, and crashed away, evidently hard
hit. When this bull was standing before us, we both
remarked that he was the finest we had seen that night :
his tusks were extremely long, thick, and very un-
usually wide set.

We now returned to the fountain, and once rnore lay
down to watch. Rhinoceroses, both black and white,
were parading around us all night in every direction.
We had lain but a short time when I detected a single
old bull elephant approaching from the south by the
same path which all the others had held. This ele-
phant must have been very thirsty, for he came boldly
on without any hesitation, and, keeping to windward,
walked past within about eight yards of us. AVe fired
at the same moment ; the elephant wheeled about, and,
after running a hundred yards, reduced his pace to a
slow walk. I clapped Carey on the shoulder, and •iaiJ.

GLORIOUS NIGHT SHOOTING. 195

"We have him.'' I had hardly uttered the words when
ho fell over on his side ; he rose, however, again to his
feet. At this moment the same presuming borele who
had troubled us in the early part of the night came up'
to us again, and, declining as before to depart by gentle
hints, I thought it a fitting moment to put an end to
his intrusion, and accordingly gave him a ball behind
the shoulder. On receiving it, he galloped off in tre-
mendous consternation, and passed close under the dy-
ing elephant, who at the moment fell dead with a heavy
crash, and broke one of his hind legs under him in the
fall.

About an hour after two more elephants came tower-
ing on from the east. When they came up they stood
for a long time motionless within forty yards of the
water ; and at length the finer of the two, which was
a very first-rate old bull, and carrying immense tusks,
walked boldly forward, and, passing round the north
side of the fountain, commenced drinking on the rock
just as the crippled bull had done. We both fired to-
gether, holding for his heart ; the bullets must have
gone nearly through him, for we had double charges
of powder in our weapons. On receiving the shots he
dropped a volume of water from his trunk, and, tossing
it aloft, uttered a loud cry and made off, steering north ;
but before he was out of our sight he reduced his pace
to a slow walk, and I could quite plainly hear, by the
loud, painful breathing through his trunk, that he was
mortally wounded ; but whether the natives were too
lazy to seek him, or having found him would not tell
me, I know not, but I never got him. We shot another
bull elephant shortly after this; he too uttered a shrill
cry, and went off holding the same course the last one
did; that was, however, all that I ever sav of him.

196 ADVE.NTLRES IN SOUTH AFPaCA.

It was now wearing on toward morning : ihe moon
was low and the sky was cloudy ; and feeling very
sleepy, I set the two Bakalahari to watch while I lay
down to rest. Carey was already enjoying a sound
sleep, and snoring loudly. I had lain nearly an hour,
and was neither waking nor sleeping, when the Bakala-
hari whispered, " Clou toona, macoa," which signifies
" Bull elephants, white man." I sat up on my kaross,
and beheld three old bulls approaching from the west.
At this moment there was a death-like calm in the
atmosphere, and the sky looked very threatening all
along the mountain range which bounds this favorite
elepliant district on the southwest. I greatly feared
a thunder-storm. Suddenly a breeze came whistling
from the mountains, and gave these three elephants our
wind. We then left the fountain and held to our wag-
ons, where we slept till the sun rose.

When the sun rose I proceeded with the Bakalahari
to inspect the spoors of the wounded elephants. I was
struck with astonishment when I thought over our
night's sport : nine times had first-rate old bull ele-
phants come up to drink, and we had fired at eight of
these at distances of from six to ten yards, with cool,
steady rests. Two of them lay dead beside the fount-
ain ; another had a broken leg, and could not escape ;
and the only one which we imagined had escaped was
the bull with the wide-set tusks, which we both felt
certain was wounded too far back in the body. Tho
event, however, proved that our expectations were in-
correct, for that afternoon we found this princely ele-
phant lying dead very near our kraal. Both our shots
were very far back, wounding him somewhere about
the kidneys. We never saw any thing of the four
other elephants shot by us The bull with the broken

ELEPHANT SHOOTING. 197

leg had gone nearly a mile from the fountain when we
came up to him. At first he made vain attempts to
escape, and then to charge; but finding he could nei-
ther escape nor catch any of us, he stood at bay beside
a tree, and my after-riders began to assail him. It was
curious to watch his movements as the boys, at about
twenty yards' distance, pelted him with sticks, &c.
Each thing, as it was thrown, he took up and hurled
back at them. When, however, dry balls of elephants'
dung were pitched at him, he contented himself with
smelling at them with his trunk. At length, wishing
to put an end to his existence,-! gave him four shots
behind the shoulder, when he at once exhibited signs
of distress; water ran from his eyes, and he could
barely keep them open ; presently his gigantic furm
quivered, and, falling over, he expired. At night we
again watched the fountain. Only one elephant ap-
peared ; late in the night he came up to leeward, and
got our wind. I, however, shot two fine old muohocho,
or white rhinoceroses, and wounded two or three borele,
which were found by the natives.

On the 19th I proceeded with Carey and Piet, and
a few Bakalahari, to a small fountain lying one mile
to the south : here we made two shooting-boxes of
boughs of trees. There were three pools at which the
game drank, the largest not being more than twelve
feet in breadth. I and Carey at night shot one fine
bull elephant and four rhinoceroses, wounding two
others, which escaped. On the night following we also
wounded two elephants, which got away.

The next night I put in practice a novel experiment
I had long entertained — that of hunting elephants by
moonlight with dogs and horses, as in the day, being
very much annoyed at wounding and losing in the last

198 ADVENrURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

week no less than ten first-rate old bull elephants. I
communicated my idea to " Stick-in-the-mud," and we
hastily proceeded to saddle m}- steed. I led my dogs,
eight in number, through the forest to leeward of where
a bull who had come to the fountain to drink had gone
in, and when I saw that they had got his wind I slipped
them. They dashed forward, and next minute I fol-
lowed the baying of the dogs and the crash and the
trumpet of the elephant. He rushed away at first
without halting, and held right for the mountains to
the southwest. When, however, he found that his
speed did not avail, and that he could not get away
from his pursuers, he began to turn and dodge about
in the thickest of the cover, occasionally making
charges after the dogs. I followed on as best I could,
shouting with all my might to encourage my good
hounds. These, hearing their master's voice beside
them, stuck well by the elephant, and fought him bet-
ter than in the day. I gave him my first two shots
from the saddle; after which I rode close up to him,
and, running in on foot, gave him some deadly shots
at distances of from fifteen to twenty yards.

The elephant very soon evinced signs of distress, and
ceased to make away from us. Taking up positions in
the densest parts of the cover, he caught up the red
dust with his trunk, and, throwing it over his head and
back, endeavored to conceal himself in a cloud. This
was a fine opportunity to pour in my deadly shafts, and
I took care to avail myself of it. When he had re-
ceived about twelve shots, he walked slowly forward in
a dying state, the blood streaming from his trunk. 1
rode close up to him, and gave him a sharp right and
left from the saddle : he turned and walked a few yards,
then suddenly came down with tremendous violence on

HUNTING BY MOONLIGHT WITH HORSE AND DOGS. 199

his vast stern, pitching his head and trunk aloft to a
prodigious height, and, falling heavily over on his side,
expired. This was an extremely large and handsome
elephant, decidedly the finest bull I had shot this year.
Afraid of taking cold or rheumatism, for I v^^as in a
most profuse perspiration, I hastened back to my fire-
side, having first secured all the dogs in their couples.
Here I divested myself of my leather trowsers, shoot-
ing-belt, and veldt-schoens, and, stretched on my ka-
ross, I took tea, and wondered at the facility with whicl'
T had captured this mighty elephant.

Feeling fatigued, I intended to lie down and rest till
morning. Just, however, as I was arranging my sad-
dles for a pillow, I beheld another first-rate old bull ele-
phant advancing up the vley from the south. I at once
resolved that he, too, should run the gauntlet with the
dogs. In immense haste, therefore, I once more pulled
on my old leathers, and buckled on my shooting-belt,
and ran down into the rank long grass beside the fount-
ain to meet him, armed with the large two-grooved rifle,
having directed Carey and Piet to come slowly up with
the dogs and my horse and gun as soon as they were
ready. The elephant came on, and sfood drinking
within thirty yards of me. When I saw Carey coming
on with the dogs and steed, I fired, but my rifle hung
fire. The shot, however, gave the dogs good courage,
and they fought well. The elephant took away at a
rapid pace toward the other fountain where the Be-
chuanas lay, and at first led me through very bad wait-
a-bit thorn cover, which onee or twice nearly swept me
out of the saddle. Presently he inclined to the west,
and got into better country; I then rode closo to him,
and bowled him over with four shots.

The next morning, my ammunition beuig expended,

200 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

or very nearly so, I dispatched Carey to camp for fresh
supplies. After he had gone I walked through the for-
est, when I observed " Frochuni" snuff up the wind
and go ahead. I soon saw him returning, with two
jackals trotting behind him, so I at once knew that
there was some game lying dead in advance. When
I had proceeded a little further the dogs ran forward,
and next moment a rush of many feet was heard charg-
ing toward where I stood. It was a troop of half-grown
lions, with a lioness, which dashed past me, followed
by the dogs. They had been feasting on a white rhi-
noceros, shot by me two nights previously, which I
found lying a little in advance. Beside the ca., dss
stood a fine fat calf — the poor thing, no doubt, fancying
that its mother slept ; heedless of lions, and all the other
creatures that had trodden there, it had remained be-
side its dead mother for a day and two nights. Rhi-
noceros' calves always stick to their mothers long after
they are dead. The next night I was again successful
in a night-hunt, and bagged a very fine bull elephant.
This wound up my elephant night-shooting for that
moon, for next day there was a most awful thunder-
storm, which filled the forest with large pools of water.
While reviewing my extraordinary good fortune dur-
ing the last week's hunting, I could not help deeply re-
gretting that I had not earlier thought of pursuing the
elephants at night with dogs and horses : if I had com-
menced with the dogs only a week sooner, I might have
bagged eight or ten first-rate bulls, which I knew were
mortally wounded, but were, nevertheless, not forthcom-
ing. The ivory of these elephants would have brought
me in upward of ^200 ; and it was vexing to think
that many, if not all of them, were lying rotting in the
surrounding fcrest. Isly orly chance of finding them

HUNTING TROPHIES. 201

was by watching the vultures ; but these birds, know-
ing that they can not break the skin of the larger game,
preferred remaining above and around the Bechuanas,
where the butchering was going briskly forward. They
perched in groups upon the old branches of the larger
trees, or darkened the sky in hundreds with their broad
and shadowy wings.

AVhile, however, I mourned the loss of these wound-
ed elephants, T reckoned that I had been favored with
immense good fortune in many instances during the
past week. Ever intent upon embellishing and in-
creasing my princely collection of African hunting tro-
phies, I placed great value upon any specimen I hap-
pened to shoot which I thought worth adorning it.
Thus I neglected my real interest; and instead of de-
voting my attention to rendering my expedition profit-
able, I allowed this very necessary part of the business
to remain quite a secondary consideration. Thus, when
I shot an ordinary bull elephant, I was accustomed to
say to myself, " Ah ! a good bull ; tusks at least fifty
pounds each ; 45. 6d. a pound ; bring me in d£22 IO5.
Capital day's work ; help me to pay for the two horses
that died last week, or the four that are bitten with
' tsetse,' and must die in a week or two." But if, on
the other hand, I shot an elephant with a pair of tusks
of unusual size, perfection, or beauty, I at once devoted
them to my collection, and valued them at a ten-fold
price. This, then, was one thing in which I reckoned
I had been extremely fortunate — I had secured the
finest tusks in all that nest of patriarchal old bulls
which I had so sadly cut up in one short week, and
which, perhaps, the summers of a century had seen
roaming through these boundlcs? forests in peaceful
Becurity.

12

202 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

The night-shooting being at an end, on the 23cl 1
retraced my steps to the dead elephants, to assist Ca-
rey in superintending the cutting out of the ivory, and
in escorting the same along with our supply of fat and
flesh to the wagons. Early in the afternoon we had
got all ready for a start. The Bechuana captains who
were there, and had appropriated my elephants and
rhinoceroses, and nearly all the fat, then brought up
about fifty men, who shouldered my impedimenta, and
we marched for camp. Carey went in front, I rode in
the middle, and my after-riders brought up the rear.
This long line of naked savages thridding the mazes of
the forest, and bearing home the spoils of a few days'
hunting, formed a truly interesting and unusual pic-
ture. Every man that was there carried something of
mine : some led the dogs, some carried the guns and
extra ammunition, some cooking vessels, axes, sickles,
water-calabashes, provisions, rhinoceroses' horns, the
elephant's teeth, and an immense supply of flesh and
fat, &c., &c. We made the Limpopo as the sun went
down, which we crossed all right, and brought every
thing safe to camp. I made other excursions from this
encampment in quest of elephants, in which I was very
successful ; but, as they did not differ in their details
from the many already described, I shall not run the
risk of wearying my reader with an account of them.

On the 30th one of those minor accidents occurred
which the hunter in these parts must be prepared con-
tinually to encounter. As I awoke that morning, I
heard a scream which denoted that " Prince," a most
worthless dog, was consumed by a crocodile. There
were several of these terrible animals frequenting the
still deep stream beside which we lay. They seemed
ever to be on the look-out for prey, and I have not the

IVORY STOLEN. 203

slightest doubt they would have taken one of us if we
had ventured in.

On the 2d of October, in the morning, we packed
the cap-tent wagon, and stowed carefully away in grass
my favorite tusks, which I intended to keep as speci-
mens.

The next afternoon, while making for the fountain
called Sstoque, accompanied by Kapain and a party
-from Bamangwato, I observed a number of crows and
vultures^ and came across the spoor of a party of Bak-
alah'ari. I at once felt convinced that one of my wound-
ed elephants lay rotting near me, but, the sun being
nearly under, I did not then wait, resolving to seek it
at another time ; Kapain promised to send two of his
companions early next morning to see if I had not sur-
mised correctly. These men next day arrived, bear-
ing some putrid fat which they had got from the Bak-
alaliari; and I at once said, "Oh, you have found my
dead elephant?" They answered, " Yes, but the tusks
are stolen." They also said that they had not seen any
others of their tribe, but that they had cut that fat out
of the elephant. Kapain then promised me to do his
best to recover the ivory for me ; but I found out, very
soon afterward, that he was playing me false. Next
day I shot an old bull elephant.

On the 5th I began to think of hunting no more
across the Limpopo, as the season of rain was up; and
any day 1 might come to the river, returning from hunt-
ing, and find myself cut off from camp by a mighty
stream, which would probably remain impassable for
months. I also wished to save, if possible, one or two
of my horses from tha " tsetse," as my stud was now re-
duced to five. I therefore resolved to return at once to
camp, and cross the Limpopo no more. After an early

204 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

breakfast I marched thither, with thirteen Bechuanas
bearing the tusks, flesh, &c.

On my way I visited the remains of the elephant
whieh Kapain's men hac. found ; it was the carcass of
an enormous old bull, no doubt the elephant which I
had first shot on the night of the 16th of last month,
for I had followed his spoor to within half a mile of the
sj)ot. His tusks were stolen as reported ; they had not
been cut out, but drawn. The skull remained perfect,"
and was finely cleaned by hyaenas, vultures, and in-
sects. On beholding the carcass, I at once knew that
Kapain had lied in saying that his men had cut the fat
I saw with them out of the elephant, for it was evi-
dent that all flesh and fat had been at an end many
days previously : the tusks, however, had quite lately
been drawn, perhaps on the preceding day. I felt quite
certain that Kapain was deceiving me, so I at once
charged him with falsehood, and resolved in my own
mind to take some very strong measures for the recov-
ery of the tusks. I suspected that a tribe of Bakala-
hari, who lived not far from the elephant, upon the riv-
er, knew all about the tusks, for there were no other
natives in that district ; so I resolved to ride to the vil-
lage early next morn, and threaten to shoot the chief
if the teeth did not quickly appear.

Accordingly, on the morning of the 6th, before it was
clear, four steeds were saddled, and, having taken cof-
fee, I crossed the Limpopo, accompanied by Carey, John,
and Piet, bearing double-barreled guns, and held down
the river side for the Bakalahari village, which we made
in about an hour. As soon as I observed the hcises,
I dashed across their corn-lands |it a racing pai-z, and
was standing in the middle of the natives befo r they
were aware of my approach.

THE IVORY RECOVERED. 205

The chief whom I wanted sat in the forum with most
of his men ; so, dismounting from my horse, I walked
up to them, and sat down on the ground in native cus-
tom, and, taking snufF myself, handed it round. While
I was doin^ this, John and Carey, armed, occu'pied the
two places of exit from the forum. I sat silent for a
little, and then said, " My heart is very bitter with the
chief of this village. You were hungry, and I killed
much flesh and fat for you. I told you that many of
my elephants were lying dead, and that 1 wanted their
teeth. You promised me to watch the vultures, and
bring me the teeth. I have traced your spoor home
from one of these elephants. Why did the tusks not
come to my wagons ? I do not want to shed your
blood, but I require the teeth to be laid immediately
before me."

They all immediately exclaimed, " The teeth are
forthcoming, they are forthcoming : wait a little, chief
of the white men. We saw the vultures, and hid the
teeth for you." I was delighted to hear this, but I pre-
tended still to be very angry, and answered, "My heart
is still very bitter, for you should have brought the teeth
at once to me, and not caused me to come with guns to
seek my teeth." The chief then at once dispatched
five or six active men to bring the teeth ; and Bechu-
ana beer and porridge were placed before me. In an
hour the men returned, bearing the tusks of my lost
elephant. I was right glad to see them; they were im-
mense teeth, and very finely arched, and almost per-
fect. I then chose some skins of koodoo and blue wilde-
beests out of their kraals for packing my ivory in the
wagons, for which4 promised them beads; after which
[ returned to camp, the natives going befoie mc, bear-
ing the teeth and skins. These men had drawn the

206 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

tusks, and concealed them somewhere close to the car-
cass of the elephant. Here they would most probably
have been concealed until I had left the country, when
they would have forwarded them to their chief. Just
as we reached the drift we met a string of natives re-
turning from my last elephant, bearing flesh and fat.
This was a fine opportunity for a seizure. I selected
several large bundles of the flesh and some fat, and
marched the same to camp on the shoulders of the
Bakalahari, along with the ivory. When Kapain saw
us arrive at camp, he was utterly confounded, and be-
gan to abuse the Bakalahari ; thereupon I bundled him
out of the kraal. In the afternoon we packed the ivory
in the baggage-wagon ; it had hitherto lain loose in the
kraal. There were fifty-three tusks of bull, and sev-
enteen tusks of cow elephants. Three pairs of these
bulls' teeth I intended to keep in my collection ; in the
cap-tent wagon were seven pairs of picked bulls' tusks,
and two pairs of cow elephants' tusks, all of which I
likewise devoted to my collection.

CHAPTER XXIX.

We inarch up the Limpopo — The Gnapa Mountains — Immense Variety
of Game — Stalk and shoot two Sable Antelopes — Several Hounds
lost — Romantic Ravine in the Guapa Mountains — My Forest Home
—Buck Koodoos — Stalking Sable Antelopes — Two of my Horses die
from Tsetse — Continue our March — Countless Herds of Game.

On the morning of the 8th of October we packed the
wagons, and about mid-day inspanned and left the Bak-.
alahari village, where we had lain for nearly six weeks.

LEAVE THE LIMPOPO. 207

The old chief of these B-akalahari looked extremely
down-hearted when he saw ns preparing to depart, and
could hardly refrain from crying. I had come there
and found them starving; but ever since my arrival
they -had had more good flesh and fat than they could
eat. I had also employed the women to stamp my bar-
ley and Bechuana corn, and had always rewarded them
liberally with beads, which they made into native orna-
ments, and with which they adorned their persons. The
old chief was distinguished by a snake-skin, which he
wore round his head. I gave him some presents at
parting, and we then trekked, holding up the river, but
at a considerable distance from it, the Limpopo having
at this part a very considerable bend. In the evening
we came again upon the river, and halted at our old
kraal, where I had been troubled with lions on the 5th
of August. On the march I lost "Argyll," my best
dog, of whom I have often made mention in former ex-
peditions, he having weathered my two campaigns in
the Bamangwato country. He was strangled on the
trap of the wagon, where he was coupled along with
the other dogs. I now resolved to leave the Limpopo,
and explore the country in a northwesterly direction
I was accompanied by a large body of Sicomy's men.
These scoundrels would not give me any information
^,her as to water or elephants, excepting in one direc-
tion which suited themselves, invariably answering my
questions with, " There is no water in that direction ;
there are no elephants there." Thus I was left en-
tirely in the dark how to proceed, and was obliged to
use my own discretion. About due northwest from
where we lay, a bold mountain range rose blue above
the forest. Thither in the morning I directed our course,
and in the evening we halted at a small vley, which I

208 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

found by following an elephant foot-path, the rascally
Bechuanas swearing that we should not find water till
sundown next day. On the inarch we started an os-
trich from her nest, in which we found sixteen large
serviceable eggs. The country through which we'pass-
ed was very soft and sandy, the forest often so dense as
to compel us to halt and use our axes.

On the 13th we reached a strong succession of fount-
ains, formJng a running stream of pure water. Here
the country became extremely beautiful ; a very wide
and finely- wooded valley stretched away into the bosom
of the mountains, ending in a bold ravine. This district
I discovered to be the abode of a considerable tribe call-
ed "Moroking." Their cultivated corn-lands stretched
away on every side of the fountain. Here I outspan-
ned, and presently the chief and all his people came to
me, highly pleased that I had visited them. These
men were dependents of Sicomy, and, for some reason
which I could not comprehend, had been instructed by
the Bamangwato natives not to give me any informa-
tion regarding the elephants or the waters in advance.
At night we were visited by a terrible and long-pro-
tracted thunder-storm, and much rain fell, rendering
the country very unfit for trekking.

The next morning I shot a large wild goose, a splen-
did bird, its general color dark glossy green, with white
patches on its sides and beneath its wings. While
seeking for wild fowl along the edge of the stream, I
almost trod upon the tail of a fearful " cobra," which
instantly reared its head on high and spread its neck
out like the Indian cobra. Before it could strike, how-
ever, I sprang to one side, and escaped its deadly fangs ;
Ruyter and I then slow him with sticks and stones.
The chief of the " Moroking," and all his people, both

A BEAUTIFUL WOOD-PIGEON, 209

mon and women, came again to see the white men, the
wagons, and the oxen; they still persisted in saying that
there were no elephants in advance. As the country was
now quite unfit for trekking, and probably I might not
find elephants until I had proceeded to a great distance,
I resolved to turn back. Accordingly, after bre&kfast
we trekked, and halted for the night at the fountain
we had left on the preceding day. On the march I shot
an extremely beautiful wood-pigeon : its back and tail
were grass green, its thighs bright orange, its bill and
feet bright coral red.

On the 15th, at sunrise, we inspanned, and held on
until late in the afternoon, steering for the mountain
of Guapa, where I had seen sable antelope on the 16th
of July. We halted for the night without water; dur-
ing the night rain fell. On the march we saw ispoor
of eland; my troop of dogs took away after a herd of
zebras, one of which broke Filbert's shoulder with a
kick, so I was obliged to shoot him. This was a sad
loss to me; Filbert was the best dog I had left.

Next day, at dawn, we marched, holding for a vley
close under the blue mountain in advance. Having pro-
ceeded some miles we fell in with springboks, zebras,
blue gnoos; and soon after, to my surprise, an old bull
kookama or oryx, carrying a superb pair of horns, start-
ed away before the wagons. My dogs were fresh and
hungry : they were instantly slipped, and dashed for
ward on the scent of the oryx. Unluckily, a wild dog
sprang up right in their path, to which they at once
gave chase, and thus I lost this most splendid ante-
lope.

I walked ahead of the wagons with my rifle, and
soon started two pairs of ostriches. I was going down
wind, and kept starting the game. I next sent away

210 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

a herd of zebras and brindled gnoos ; next a sounder cA
wild boar; next a troop of giraffes; and, close to tha
vley where I intended to halt, I wounded a koodoo,
which left a bloody spoor, that I did not choose to fol-
low. The vley to which I had been trusting proved
dry. We outspanned here for an hour, however, and
then held round the westeru extremity of this fine
mountain range; and as the sun went down, I halted
my wagons on its south side, opposite the mouth of a
bold and well-wooded ravine, which contained a strong
fountain. On the march I rode ahead of my wagons
on the spoor of two old bull buffaloes, which our wagon-
whips had started; these had gone out of my course,
so I did not follow far. Returning, I came to a black
rhinoceros, which I wounded, but did not get. As I
neared the ravine where I intended to halt, I stalked
in close upon a second black rhinoceros, which, on re-
ceiving two deadly shots, charged madly forward and
subsided in the dust. A few minutes after firing at
Borele I was following a troop of pallahs close under
the green, rocky-mountain, when, lo! a herd of the love-
ly sable antelope caught my attention. These were
quietly browsing on a shoulder of the mountain among
the green trees far, far above me. I instantly threw
off my leathers, and proceeded to stalk in upon tliem.
An old doe detected me, however, and, instantly sound-
ing the alarm, the herd, which consisted of eight — three
coal-black bucks and five does — dashed off, and took
through a wild, rocky ravine.

As it was too late in the day to follow them further,
I turned my face toward my horses, which I had left at
the base of the mountain; and, straining my eyes along
the level forest beneath me to seek my wagons, which
were now due, I detected them far out Irom tho

STALKING SABLE ANTELOPES. 211

mountain, steering to go past the fountain. I then fired
a signal shot, wliich brought them up. This unlucky
shot started away two bull elephants which were feed'
ing in the thorn cover close beneath me. I drew up
my wagons in an open spot more than half a mile from
the fountain, wait-a-bit thorns forbidding our nearer ap-
proach.

The 17th was a very cool and cloudy day; I took an
early breakfast, and then held northeast, close in under
the mountain range, accompanied by Kapain and a
party of Bakalahari, to seek elephants.

We fell in with immense herds of zebras and buffa-
loes, numbering between three and five hundred in
each herd, and toward evening with a numerous herd
of elephants, when I killed one of the finest after an
easy chase.

After several unsuccessful stalks for sable antelope,
I at length met with the success my perseverance de-
served. Returning in the afternoon of the 20th home-
ward, I suddenly observed a herd of about ten of them
in thick cover on the mountain's ridge. I commenced
ascending the rugged acclivity as fast as I could, for the
daylight would be gone in a very short time. When
[ had got within two hundred yards of them, I found it
almost impossible to get in any nearer, as I must cross
a stony flat in sight of several of the ever- wary does ;
it was, moreover, now so late that I could not well see
the sights of my rifle. I had almost resolved not to dis-
turb them, and to return to camp: on second thoughts,
however, I resolved to give it a trial. I made a suc-
cessful stalk, and crossed this dangerous rocky flat un-
observed. There was no moss nor heather under my
knees, but a mass of sharp, adamantine fragments of
rock, yet this I did not heed.

212 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Having crossed the flat, I soon stalked within shot,
when, raising my rifle slowly, I fired at a lovely olil doa
which stood on my left. The ball passed right through
her a little behind the shoulder; she bounded down hill,
when I fired my second barrel at her, but, owing to the
darkness, I missed. The potaquaines above me, seeing
nothing and smelling nothing, stood bewildered until I
had reloaded, lying on my side. I then shot anothei
splendid doe with a perfect pair of wide-set horns, put-
ting two bullets through her fore quarters. She, how-
ever, took two more balls before she lay, when I put a
fifth bullet into her to stop her kicking, as she was in-
juring her horns on the rocky ground. By this time
the sun was under and the moon shone bright. High-
ly gratified at my success, I now cut oft' this magnifi-
cent antelope's head, and descended the mountain with
a slow and careful step. The other potaquaine did not
leave the ground, and I got her also next day.

I now reckoned my collection of African trophies as
almost perfect. Last year I shot an old buck pota-
quaine in the Bamangwato country, which I had care-
fully preserved ; and I had now shot two splendid does,
which was what I most particularly required to com-
plete my collection. I still wanted heads of the " blue-
buck" or " kleenbok," "Vaal rheebok," " ourebi," and
" reitbok ;" but these were abundant in the colony,
and were not hard to get.

Next morning I ascended the mountain to secure the
flesh of the dead potaquaine and to secure the wounded
one. I found her still alive, and on seeing me she made
ofl"; T, however, followed her up, and, making a correct
stalk barefooted, I shot her where she stood : she proved
a very old doe.

The 23d was a very cool and cloudy mornin",. and

A WOUNDED POTAQUAINE. 213

looked likely for light rain. At an early hour I left
my wagons with some provisions, and ascended the
mountain to the northeast to seek sable antelope. Soon
after gaining the upper heights of the mountain I had
the satisfaction to detect a fine herd of these feeding
among the trees on the table summit of a ridge of the
mountain, which stretched away to the east. I de-
termined to stalk them in true Highland fashion, and
to use my very best endeavors to insure success ; ac-
cordingly, having surveyed the ground, I made a cast
to leeward, and approached the herd upon my belly.
When I got within two hundred yards of them, I found
it was impossible to approach nearer on that side, so 1
was obliged to creep away back again, and try to come
upon them from another quarter. When next I crept
in the herd had vanished, and I could not find them for
some time. At length, however, I came suddenly upon
them, when the herd rushed in a semicircle round me.
I ran forward as hard as I could, and, pulling suddenly
up, fired at the big black buck as he dashed past me
at top speed ; the ball told loudly, and the buck bent
up his back to the shot.

They now charged for the southern ridge of the
mountain, and disappeared over it at a tremendous
pace. I quickly loaded, and proceeded to take up the
spoor, and at once had the satisfaction to find great
spouts of blood all along the spoor of the patriarchal old
black buck. This gave me high hopes of success ; I
waited a few minutes, and whistled for the Bechuanas,
who immediately came up to me with " Bles" and " Af-
friar," two right good dogs. When the wounded buck
had proceeded a short distance down the mountain's
face, lie l£ft the herd and slanted away by himself In
a few minutes, however, I espied hir • ho .-tood about

214 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

three hundred yards from me, under a low tree on the
rocky mountain side, with drooping head and out-
stretched tail, which he kept constantly whisking from
side to side, and was evidently extremely sick. As he
exhibited no intention of going further, and as the wag-
ons were near, I thought it would be a fine opportunity
to give all the dogs blood ; so I dispatched Ruyter to
camp to fetch them, and remained stationary and
watched the wounded potaquaine. After standing in
one spot for some time, he made a few tottering steps,
then lay heavily down in the grass as if dead, and noth-
ng was visible but his side.

This was most satisfactory : there, on the side of his
native rugged mountain, lay the ever-wary, the scarce,
the lovely, long-sought sable antelope, and a most noble
specimen — perhaps the finest buck in all the district.
His ever- watchful eye was now sunk in the long grass ;
and as he was lying beside a little ravine, and a stiff
breeze was blowing, I could, if I had chosen, have
crept in within thirty yards of him, and shot him dead
on the spot ; but, so far from doing this, I rather la-
mented that he was thus badly wounded, for I feared
that he would not'-have life enough left to show a good
fight when the dogs came up. It has been truly said
that there is many a slip between the cup and the lip,
and the truth of this old saying I was about most bit-
terly to experience. In half an hour the Bushman
came on with three Bechuanas, leading all my best
dogs. I went up to the potaquaine. He had arisen,
and was looking at us as we came on ; when I ap-
proached within a hundred and fifty yards of him, he
disappeared over the ridge. I did not, however, slip
the trustless dogs until they should be on his scent or
Bee him. When I gained the ridge I again beheld him

HUNTING A WOUNDED POTAQUAINE. 215

standing •within a hundred yards of me. I now slipped
all my trustiest hounds ; they ran forward toward the
buck, and then took away up the hill, where, finding
nothing, they presently came down again, and, after
snuffing about for a little, followed up the scent of the
buck.

All this time the potaquaine remained utterly mo-
tionless, regarding the dogs with a wicked eye. They,
however, did not observe him until they were within
about ten yards of him, when he stamped his foot, and
turned as if to fight with them. The dogs opened a
bay, and the next instant the potaquaine bounded
through the middle of them, and, holding down the
mountain side, was out of my sight in two seconds, tho
dogs all at his heels.

I pressed forward in the most perfect confidence of
an immediate bay ; but, when I obtained a view of the
open forest around the mountain's base, nor dog nor
potaquaine could I see, neither could I hear a sound.
I thought the chase must have led up wind, so I held
on at mv best pace along the rugged mountaiii's side.

I gained shoulder after shoulder, and opened fresh
ground, but nothing living could I see, nor could I hear
a sound. To make matters worse, it was blowing half
a gale of wind. Most thoroughly confounded, I now in
haste retraced my steps to the natives. These useless
creatures I found sitting just where I had slipped the
dogs. In vain I asked them whither they were gone ;
they only put me wrong, and lost me the day ; for they
declared that they had watched the ground below to
leeward, and that no dog had gone in that course.
They had, however, gone that way, and were at that
moment baying a fresh buck very near me, but the un-
lucky wind prevented me from hearing them. I hastilv

216 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

retraced ray steps once more up wind, and, after pro-
ceeding a little further than I had been before, I saw
" Alert," a very uncertain animal which I had long
possessed, returning toward me.

The dogs have then gone up wind, I thought to my-
self, and they have the buck at bay in advance. Next
moment, however, to my utter amazement, I beheld
my wounded potaquaine standing in the forest below
me, and not a single dog near him. I was now sure
that my dogs had fallen in with some other bucks which
I was not aware of, and were gone I knew not whither.
After waiting an hour for them, I endeavored to stalk
in on the potaquaine: it was bad ground, and he saw
me and made off. He went but a short distance, how-
ever, and stood again in a drooping attitude beneath a
tree ; the Bechuanas tried to drive him to a position
which I took up, when he left the ground, and I never
saw him again.

When I returned to my camp, my people told me
that the dogs had bayed a buck for a long time under
the mountain, within hearing of the wagons, and that
the sounds had died away, as if they had pulled him
down and killed him. On hearing this, I at once sad-
dled up two steeds, and rode in that direction to seek
my dogs, but saw nothing of them, and, night setting
in, I returned to camp. Next day three of the dogs re-
turned ; they were covered with the blood of the pota-
quaine they had killed, and one of them was wounded
by his horns. I, however, never found the remains of
either this buck or the one I had shot, nor did I see
more of my three good dogs which were missing; no
doubt they had all been found by the natives, and stolen
by them.

I resolved on the 26th to make an expedition on foot

A FOREST HOME. 217

across the mountain, and hunt in its northern limits
for a few days. I accordinojly started with Ruyter and
four Bechuanas, bearing my bedding, pots, water, and
other impedimenta. Having ascended to the upper
heights of the mountain, I crossed to its western ridges,
and held for its northern limits; and when the sun went
down I halted beneath a green tree, where I slept.

I made my coffee by moonlight before the day dawn-
ed ; and when it was clear, I stalked along the upper
ridges of the mountain. Presently, peeping over a
rocky and well-wooded ridge, I met a small troop of
doe koodoos, one of which I shot for food. Immediate-
ly below where this koodoo fell was a lonely kraal of"
Bakalahari. These men had chosen for their place of
residence a wild and most romantic ravine, which here
parted the mountain for a distance of about a mile,
forming a deep and almost impassable gulf. At the
upper ejid of this ravine was a most delicious fountain,
forming a strong running stream, which wound along
the shady depths of this wild and most secluded spot.
When these Bakalahari heard the report of my rifle
echoing through their valley, they left their pots upon
their fires, and fled to a man. My Bechuanas, howev-
er, eventually got them to come back again, and they
cut up for me my koodoo, and carried the flesh to a
shady tree on the table summit of this tabular range,
immediately above the strong fountain in the gulf be-
neath me.

This spot I had selected to be my forest home for a
short time, and here I spent some merry days, and
feasted like a prince on fat venison, marrow-bones, Bo-
chuana corp, Bechuana beer, tea, coffee, biscuit, &c.
I was also provided with a rich dessert consisting of a
delicious African fruit called " moopooroo," which was

V,,,,. II.— K

218 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

now ripe and extremely abundant throughout this
range. This fine fruit grows on a tree with a very
dark green leaf; the fruit is the size and shape of a
large olive, and when ripe is bright orange. In the aft-
ernoon I went out with Ruyter, and found four buck
koodoos on the northern ridge of the mountain. I
wounded one of these, and followed up his bloody spoor,
and, coming on him in cover on the mountain side,
broke his fore leg with a second shot ; he, however, took
away down to the level forest beneath, and there I lost
him.

At earliest dawn next day I held down wind with
Ruyter, and presently found the fresh spoor of a herd
of sable antelope which had got my wind, and were off.
I then inclined my steps in the direction in which their
,'5poor led, and presently observed them among the trees
within three hundred yards of us, some lying and some
standing. One of the old does soon observed us. We
sat gently down in the grass, however, and I crept
away back, and made a very fine stalk upon the herd
in very difficult ground. I was obliged to do a hund-
red and fifty yards of it on my breast. A wary old doe
kept sentry, and prevented my approaching within a
hundred yards. I therefore took this doe, and shot her
with a bullet in the shoulder. I then sent Ruyter for
the natives, and at once dispatched the head to camp
to be stuffed.

In the evening I fell in again with this same troop
of potaquaines on the northern range of the mountain.
They heard me coming on before I was aware of them,
and held up the wind over very rocky ground and
through thick cover. I followed on in their wake like
an old stag-hound, keeping close to them, and always
halting when they halted ; thus they did not observe

STALKING SABLE ANTELOPES. 219

me, and at last I got close in upon them. I could then
have had a fine shot at several of the does, but I want-
ed the old black buck. I aimed for his heart, but an
unlucky branch intervened, and, altering the line of my
ball, lost me this most noble animal. I, however, fired
a snap shot at him with my left barrel, and sent a bul-
let through his flank. The herd then dashed down the
mountain side, making a tremendous rumpus among
the loose masses of rock, the old buck leaving a bloody
spoor. I did not disturb them further then, the sun
being under, but returned to my home beneath the
greenwood tree.-

I followed the old buck up next day, but without suc-
cess, and on the 31st I determined to return to my
wagons. Accordingly, at dawn of day I rolled up my
bedding, and, directing my Bechuanas to go and call
Bakalahari to carry my flesh and impedimenta to camp,
I held a southwesterly course across the mountains with
Ruyter and a Bechuana boy. This morning richly re-
paid me for all my toil and exertions in following the
sable antelope throughout these stony and rugged
mountains. Having proceeded about a mile down the
wind, on looking over a height which commanded a
fine view of well-wooded, undulating table-land below
me, I had the sincere pleasure to behold a beautiful
herd of sable antelopes feeding quietly up the wind
within a quarter of a mile of me. The herd consisted
•of seven does and one coal-black magnificent old buck.
Even at the distance at which they then were, I could
very plainly see that this buck was a most superb spec-
imen ; his horns seemed almost too large for him, and
swept back over his shoulders with a determined and
perfect curve.

I sat some time to watch their movements, and gazed

220 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

upon them with intense delight. The ground on which
they were feeding being very level, and observing that
the does were extremely wary, I thought the best way
to stalk them would be to cut in before them to wind-
ward, as they were proceeding in that direction, taking
care, of course, to keep out of their way sufficiently far
to insure their not getting my wind. I then crept back
from the ridge where I had observed them, and, de-
scribing a semicircle, crept in on my knees through
the large rough stones. The does came freshly on, and
inclined their course to the spot where I lay flat on my
belly awaiting their forward movement. They contin-
ued to approach until one fine old doe was within range
of my rifle. When, however, they had come thus far,
they seemed all at once to change their minds, and,
after feeding about for a few minutes, they took anoth-
er tack, and altered their course from east to north. ]
then divested myself of my shoes and shooting-belt, and
commenced following them up.

Presently, however, I observed a wary old doe, which
had fed away among the trees apart from her comrades,
standing looking at me. My position was a very awk-
ward one ; but I dared not alter it, as this would have
lost me the day ; so I remained motionless as the rocks
over which I crept, and presently her patience was ex-
hausted, and she ceased to suspect me, and held on to
her comrades. I now made up my mind that it was
impossible to do any thing with them where they then,
were, and that it would be best to watch them from a
distance until they should move into some more uneven
ground, where a stalker would have some chance with
them.

Having thus resolved, I beat a retreat, and returned
to the ridge above, where I had at first made them out

STALKING SABLE ANTELOPES. 221

Here I again sat, and with a longing heart watched the
movements of these loveliest of Afric's lovely antelopes.
I was struck with admiration at the magnificence of the
noble old black buck, and I vowed in my heart to slay
him, although I should follow him for a twelvemonth
The old fellow seemed very fidgety in his movements,
and while the does fed steadily on, he lagged far behind,
occasionally taking a mouthful of grass, and then stand-
ing for a few minutes under the trees, rubbing his huge,
knotted, cimeter-shaped horns upon their branches. At
length the does had fed away a hundred and fifty yards
from him, and he still lagged behind. This was the
golden moment to make a rapid stalk in upon him,
while his ever-watchful sentinels were absent. I saw
my chance, and stole rapidly down the rocky hill side
and gained the level on which the herd were pasturing.
He was now obscured from my view by the bushy,
dwarfish trees which adorned the ground ; the next
move was to get my eye upon him before he should
observe me: I stole stealthily forward and detected
him. He was still feeding very slowly on after the
does, and seemed quite unsuspicious. I then instantly
cast off my shoes and shooting-belt, and, watching the
lowering of his noble horns, my eye fixed tiger-like
upon him, stalked rapidly in. My heart beat with
anxiety as I advanced, and was almost within shot ;
twenty yards nearer, and I would fire. Again he low-
ered his head to crop the young grass ; I seized the
moment, and the twenty yards were won.

Here was a young tree with a fork, from which I had
resolved to fire. The potaquaine stood with his round
stern right to me. I took a deadly aim and fired : the
ball entered very near his tail, and, passing through the
length of his vitals, rested in his breast. He stagger-

222 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ed about for a second, and then, bounding forward about
sixty yards, halted, and looked back to sec from whence
the deadly shaft had sped that had thus so unceretjioni-
ously disturbed his morning meal. The sights of my
rifle were still fixed upon him, and just as he pulled
up and exposed to me his full broadside, a second bul-
let left the ringing steel, and crashed through the very
center of the old fellow's shoulders.

On receiving this second shot, the sable antelope
wheeled about and held after the does, and I knew from
his movement, though his pace was good, that he had
got the ball in his shoulder and could not go very far.
I then walked leisurely back to seek my shoes and
shooting-belt, and, having found them, was loading my
rifle, when the Bushman, wdio had been watching my
stalk from the height above, joined me, and said that
the buck had run but a short distance, and had lain
down under a tree. I stole carefully forward, and im-
mediately observed him lying as if still alive, his noble
head not laid on the ground, but in an upright posture.
Fancying him still alive, and having too often been
tricked with wounded antelopes, I then gave him a
third bullet, but the dark form of this lovely habitant
of the mountain quailed not to the shot ; the spirit of
the sable antelope had fled. I was transported with
delight when I came up and saw the surpassing beauty
and magnificence of the invaluable trophy I had won.
This potaquaine was very old, and his horns were enor-
mous, fair set, perfect, and exquisitely beautiful. I cut
off his head, and, leaving men to convey the flesh to
camp, held thither in advance, escorting my hard-won
trophy. On my way to camp, coming down the foot-
path from the fountain, to my dejectment I found the
untamable Mazeppa stretched to rise no more, and half

LEAVE THE POTAQUAINE COUNTRY 223

consumed by hyaenas and vultures: he bad died of
horse-sickness. The redaction of my stock by the fell
hand of death during this week was, alas ! not confin-
ed to Mazeppa only; the pony I bought of my cousin,
Colonel Campbell, died of " tsetse," a valuable fore-ox
died of some severe sickness, and "Fox," a very good
dog, died of the African distemper ; three of my very
best dogs had also mysteriously disappeared the day
they chased the potaquaine.

We remained in the neighborhood frequented by the
sable antelope for several days longer, but I did not
succeed in killing another, although with other game
of every kind T met with great success.

CHAPTER XXX.

Leave the Pots.qn;iine Country — Absurd Ceremony — My Cattle fail ino
— Send to the Missionary Station for Aid — Encamp near the Limpo-
po— Indescribable Fish — A young Secretary — Nearly all my Oxen
die — Assistance arrives from Mr. Livingstone — We reach the Resi-
dence of Sichely — A Hunter's Monument — We continue our March
through a beautiful Country — An Adventure with two savage Lion-
esses— A violent Tempest — Mahura — Bakalahari driving Game to-
ward their Pittfalls — We crrss the Orange River and reach Coles-
berg.

On tho 15th of November we inspanned, and left the
mountains of Linguapa. Kapain and his Bechuanas
held for Bamangwato ; Seleka's Bechuanas held for
their chief; and we held a southwesterly course for the
" impopo, which we reached in less than three hours.

Next day we trekked at dawn, and having marched

224 ADVENTURES IN SCOJTH AFR/CA.

a few miles we were joined by Bakalahari, who re«
ported having seen elephants on the preceding day. A
little after this I shot a watei-buck close to the river,
when I outspanned.

During the day " Matsaca," chief of the Bamalette,
visited me with a retinue : he brought a kaross for me,
for which I was to cut him on the arm and shoulder,
and anoint him with medicine to make him shoot well
with the gun which he had bought of me. In the even-
ing I walked a short distance down the river's bank,
and shot a lovely fawn of the serolomootlooque, and a
buck pallah with a very handsome head.

On the 17th I went in quest of elephants, accompa-
nied by the Bamalette men. We continued along the
bank of the river for several miles, when we took up the
spoor of three or four enormous old bulls. On our way
I wounded a white rhinoceros, which I did not follow
to secure. The elephants had fed very slowly away
from the river, and before we had followed the spoor an
hour we were close upon them. The Bechuanas chose
to leave the spoor, and, making a cast to windward,
they started the elephants. My dogs being much dis-
tressed with the sun, and I not being aware that the
game were started, we at this very moment unfortu-
nately sat down and rested for half an hour, which of
course lost me the day. When I discovered that the
elephants had moved off, I turned my face for camp,
and before proceeding far I started an ostrich off her
nest: the nest contained twenty eggs, which I directed
the Bechuanas to bring to camp.

As we held up the side of the river I detected a very
fine old black rhinoceros standing: among some wait-a-
bit thorn. Directing Piet, my dismounted after-rider
(for my stud of fifteen was now reduced to one), to

GREAT VARIETY OF GAME. 225

watch my movements, I commenced a stalk upon Bo-
rele, and, having got within about sixty yards of where
he stood in dense cover, I signed to Piet to get on the
other side and start him toward me; this plan succeed-
ed, for he charged out of the cover, and, holding for
the bush behind which I was concealed, passed within
twelve yards. My first shot was a very deadly one.
It set him charging round and round in a circle, when
I gave him a second, and he made off mortally wound-
ed. I then ran to my little mare, and, mounting her,
gave him chase, and presently dropped him with a shot
behind the shoulder. Loud thunder was rumbling to
windward of my camp, so I hastened to cut off Borele's
horn, after which I rode home.

In the course of the day I saw the fresh spoor of
about twenty varieties of large game, and most of the
animals themselves, viz., elephant, black, white, and
long-horned rhinoceros, hippopotamus, camelopard, buf-
falo, blue wildebeest, zebra, water-buck, sassayby, koo-
doo, pallah, springbok, serolomootlooque, wild boar, dui-
ker, steinbok, lion, leopard. This district of Africa con-
tains a larger variety of game than any other in the
whole of this vast tract of the globe, and perhaps more
than any district throughout the world ; for besides the
game which I have just noted, the following are not
uncommon, viz., keilton, or two-horned black rhinoc-
eros, eland, oryx, roan antelope, sable antelope, harte-
beest, klipspringer, and grys steinbuck : the reitbuck
is also to be found, but not abundantly.

"We inspanned on the 18th before it was day, and
trekked up the Limpopo for about three hours. In the
forenoon Matsaca arrived from the carcass of the bo-
rele : he brought with him a very fine leopard's skin ka-
ross, and an elephant's tooth ; these were for me, in re-
* K 2

226 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

turn for which I was to cut him to make him shoot well.
This I did in the following manner : opening a large
book of natural history, containing prints of all the chief
quadrupeds, I placed his forefinger successively on sev-
eral of the prints of the commonest of the South Afri
can quadrupeds, and as I placed his finger on each, I
repeated some absurd sentence and anointed him with
turpentine. When this was accomplished T made four
cuts on his arm with a lancet, and then, anointing the
bleeding wounds with gunpowder and turpentine, I told
him that his gun had power over each of the animals
which his finger had touched, provided he held it straight.
Matsaca and his retinue seemed highly gratified, and
presently took leave and departed: I afterward trekked
up the river till sundown.

On the succeeding day we marched with the dawn,
and held up the river. In the forenoon Bechuanas from
Seleka visited me, bearing a tooth of a bull elephant,
for which they wanted a gun ; the tooth, however, being
small, I would not give them one for it, although I
might have done so at a fair profit. I found the game
extremely abundant, counting no less than twenty-two
rhinoceroses, nine of which were in one herd, feeding
on the open plain. The wind was as foul as it could
blow, and kept continually starting the game. At
length, late in the afternoon, I got within shot of four
white rhinoceroses. The old bull stood next to me ;
so, resting my six-pound rifle on the trunk of a tree
which an elephant had overthrown, I took him on the
shoulder and smashed his forearm ; he ran for thirty
yards, and then rolled over on his back. He, however,
regained his legs and ran a hundred yards further,
when his leg failed him, and, coming up on his spoor, I
finished him in a few minutes. The wagons now camo

CATTLE DYING. 227

up, and I halted them on the river's bank, opposite to
the rhinoceros.

On the 21st much rain fell throughout the day, ren-
dering the country unfit for trekking, A birth and a
death occurred among my cattle. In the afternoon a
loud rushing noise was heard coming on like a hurri-
cane : this was a large troop of pallah pursued by a
pack of about twenty wild dogs. They passed our
camp in fine style within a hundred yards of us, and
in two minutes the wild dogs had caught two of the
pallahs, which my Bechuanas ran up and secured. A
pallah, in passing my camp, cleared a distance of fifty
feet in two successive bounds, and this on unfavorable
ground, it being very soft and slippery.

I left the sable antelopes' mountain mainly in con-
sequence of a general falling off among my cattle. I
did not then know to what cause to attribute this sad,
and, to me, all-important change in their condition,
which only a few weeks before had been a source of
admiration to us. Alas ! it was now too evident that
nearly all of them were dying, having been bitten by
the fly " tsetse" at the mountain. The rains of the
last three days had made this melancholy truth more
strongly manifest; the cattle presented a most woeful
appearance. Listless and powerless, they cared not to
feed, and, though the grass covered the country with
the richest and most luxuriant pasturage, their sides
remained hollow, and their whole bodies became daily
more emaciated ; the eyes also of many of them were
closed and swollen. The next morning being fair, I "in-
spanned, although the country was very unfit for trek-
king, my heavily-laden wagons sinking deep in the soft,
rich soil which lies along the banks of the Limpopo.
My poor oxen, as I expected, became knocked up on tho

228 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

march before they had proceeded three miles, many of
them lying down and refusing to proceed further, or
even to stand up. I was obliged, in consequence, to
outspan one wagon and leave it behind, and to bring
on the other with the able oxen, and then send them
back to assist their dying comrades in bringing up the
second. I performed a short march, and halted on a
fine, open sandy spot, where I made a strong thorn kraal
for the cattle. Soon after we had outspanned the sec-
ond w^agon heavy rain set in, which continued at in-
tervals throughout the night.

Light rains continued to fall throughout the 24th.
I, however, performed a short march, and brought my
wagons a few miles further up the Limpopo. I was
obliged, as on the last march, to bring on one wagon at
a time.

Heavy rains fell at intervals throughout the next day.
" Ronoberg," a Natal ox, died during the night, and it
was evident that many more would die in a few days;
even now the half of them w^ere utterly unfit to work.
The heavy and continued rains which had lately set in
made me feel my heavy misfortune with increased se-
verity, for the country was hardly to be traveled with
such loads as mine, even with oxen in good working
condition. At length I found myself reduced to a stand,
or the next thing to it. In this state of things I deemed
it necessary to dispatch natives to the nearest mission-
ary station for assistance. I accordingly wrote a letter
to Mr. Livingstone, the resident missionary at Sichely's,
requesting the loan of two spans of oxen, and, having
sealed up my epistle in a bottle, I sent it oft' with two
natives, instructing them to use all possible speed. One
of these men was a native in my service, named " Ram-
achumey ;" the other was one of Sichely's subjects,

FISHING IN THE LIMPOPO. 229

having been on a visit to Seleka. They expected to
reach Sichely in seven days.

For many succeeding days my difficulties with re-
spect to bringing on the wagons continued to increase.
The rain still poured down, rendering the country im-
possible to travel, and my oxen died daily of the tsetse
bite. In this condition my progress was slow and pain-
ful in the extreme, and I awaited anxiously the expect-
ed succor from Mr. Livingstone. At length I came
fairly to a stand, not having sufficient oxen left to draw
one wagon. I formed my camp in a shady bend of the
river, and fortified it with a high hedge of thorny trees,
and in a few days more all my cattle had died with the
exception of two young oxen, which I inclined to think
would survive the bite of the fatal " tsetse."

On the 7th of December I resolved to have some
fishing ; accordingly, I routed out some old salmon-
fishing tackle, and sallied forth with one of the wagon
whip-sticks for a rod, and some string for a line. I
baited my hook with a bit of the blue wildebeest, and
put on a cork for a bob. I cast in my bait in a quiet
bend of the river, and anxiously watched the cork,
which very soon began to bob. I then conjured up
many forms in my mind, and wondered whether it
would be a fair fish, such as I might expect in my own
land's rivers, or something more like a young crocodile.
I was not fated to live long upon conjecture, however,
for next moment under went the cork, and, striking
sharply, I threw over my head a fine gray fish about a
pound weight, and in appearance like a haddock, with
a broad mouth and eight or ten feelers. My Bushman
said the Boers, about the Orange River knew this fish,
and loved to catch and eat it. Presently my perse-
verance was rewarded by a second fish of the same kind

230 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

as the first ; and after this I hooked a very heavy fish,
which I lost. I doubt not but most excellent sport
might be obtained in the Limpopo.

In the evening Carey and I cut dow^n a very dense
thorn-tree to inspect the nest of a secretary The sum-
mit of the tree was very wide, den.'se, and level, and
from the terrible nature of the thorns it was utterly in-
accessible without the aid of the hatchet. When the
tree fell, out from its nest rolled a young secretary,
and immediately disgorged its last meal, which con-
sisted of " four lizards of different sorts, of which one
was a chameleon, one locust, one quail, and a mouse."

A few days after this I sent out John and Carey into
different airts to seek game, and each killed a pallah ;
but the sky threatening rain, they did not wait to escort
their venison, but left natives to bring it on, A con-
siderable time having elapsed, and the Bakalahari not
appearing, I dispatched John and some of the natives
in my service to look after them, and it was well I di(f.
so ; for, on reaching his pallah, John found the Bakala-
hari whom he had left to convey it to camp in the act
of bolting with the half of it, having cunningly (as he
thought) hacked the other half with a sharp stone, and
dirtied the flesh with the entrails, thinking to persuade
us that it had been done by a leopard or hyaena.

It was now twenty days since I dispatched natives
to the nearest missionary to inform him of my distress,
and solicit assistance in oxen, and they might ere now
have reached me if all was well ; this caused me many
painful doubts and apprehensions. Bay after day was
passing away, and hourly I felt my situation more and
more irksome and tedious. Moreover, my supplies
were fast coming to an end. I certainly felt my fixed
position most painful. At length, however, that aid

ASSISTANCE ARRIVES. 231

which I SO earnestly yet fearfully prayed for was at
hand.

On the morning of the 16th, as I was preparing my
breakfast, I suddenly beheld a civilized-looking native
approach me : he wore a shirt, a pair of leather trow-
gers, and a sailor's red night-cap, and carried a gun
and shooting-belt. The instant I beheld him I said
aloud, " Natives from Sichely — the oxen are at hand."
It was even so : my messengers had found Mr. Living-
stone at home, who, on hearing of my distress, had at
once, in the noblest manner, dispatched men with his
whole stock of trek-oxen to my assistance. These I
had now the inexpressible satisfaction to behold reach
me in saloty. We inspanned at once, and commenced
our march and continued to make good way for sev-
eral days ; and on the 26th we reached Kolubeng, the
new residence of Sichely. In the morning that chief
brought me two young oxen, which I all but purchased
for an old saddle and two pounds of powder ; but we
split upon the cup of powder being level and not piled.

A day or two after, I ascended the rocky hill above
the town with Mr. Livingstone, to obtain a view of the
surrounding country. I came upon a very high heap
of well-bleached moldering bones of many varieties of
game, amassed and piled here by a mighty Nimrod^
now no more, who had in days of yore chosen this hill
for his habitation. Mr. Livingstone pointed out to me
a range of tabular hills to the southeast, near the
sources of the Kolubeng, throughout which he informed
me the sable antelope was to be met with. In the
evening Sichely came to trade with me, when I obtained
several young oxen in barter from him.

On arriving at Sichely's I dispatched natives to Bak-
atla to fetch two spans of oxen which I had left on my

232 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

way into the interior in charge of Mr. Edwards, and
with these, on the 3d of the new year, we again in-
spanned and tried to make a start with twelve oxen in
each wagon : they, however, finding the wagons ex-
tremely heavy, would not move them, nor could we
prevail upon them to take to their wonted work, as
they ought to do, until every ox had been most unmer-
cifully flogged with both wagon- whips and jamboks.
Our course for Bakatla was southwesterly, but, owing
to the position of the mountains, we were obliged to
make a very zigzag and circuitous march. We halted
at sundown. The country here is the most pleasing I
have seen in Africa — beautifully wooded, undulating
plains, valleys, straths, and conical and tabular mount-
ains of most fascinating appearance, invariably wooded
to their summits, stretching away on every side.

We marched steadily for several days, and on the
7th reached Bakatla, which was looking extremely
beautiful, being surrounded by very green fields of
Bechuana corn. Here we remained a few days while
I obtained fresh oxen, and then, pushing on, gained the
River Molopo. Early on the 14th I drew up my wag-
ons on its northern bank, and in the forenoon sallied
forth to seek for reitbuck, which are here abundant.
At this hour of the day, however, it was of little use to
seek for them, as they were lying concealed in the end-
less dense reeds which inclose the Molopo, in some parts
extending to a breadth of half a mile, their height aver-
aging from twelve to twenty feet and upward. I found
plenty of spoor, including the fresh spoor of lions, which
along the Molopo are always abundant. The day was
excessively hot, and there was a most painful, oppressive
feeling in the atmosphere to an extent which I had
rarely experienced. In the afternoon dark masses of

ADVENTURE WITH TWO LIONESSES. 233

clouds arose along the horizon on every side, and con-
stant thunder bellowed in the distance: a little before
the sun went down the sky above and all around looked
extremely threatening, and I directed my people to pre-
pare for a tempestuous night.

At this time I observed a reitbuck grazing beyond
the dense reeds on the other side of the Molopo, and 1
at once held for him, with my little Moore rifle, ac-
companied by my Bushman. We had some difficulty
in penetrating the dense reeds, and on gaining the other
side a change in the direction of the wind started off
the reitbuck. I then observed two other reitbuck, a
buck and a doe, coming out to graze some distance to
windward, and commenced a stalk in upon them. Hav-
ing proceeded about half way, I suddenly observed two
huge yellow lionesses about a hundred and fifty yards
to my left, walking along the edge of the reeds, holding
a course parallel to my own. The reitbucks smelled
the lions and lay down. I got very near them, but
they started oft', and bounded. straight away from me:
I fired and missed the buck.

Ruyter came toward me, and I ran forward to obtain
a view beyond a slight rise in the ground to see whither
the lionesses had gone. In so doing I came suddenly
upon them, within about seventy yards ; they were stand-
ing looking back at Ruyter. I then very rashly com-
menced making a rapid stalk in upon them, and fired at
the nearest, having only one shot in my rifle. The ball
told loudly, and the lioness at which I had fired wheeled
rig])t round, and. came on lashing her tail, showing her
teeth, and making that horrid, murderous deep growl
which an angry lion generally utters. At the same
moment her comrade, who seemed better to know that
she was in the presence of man, made a hasty retreat

234 ' ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

into the reeds. The instant the lioness came on I stood
up to my full height, holding my rifle, and my arms
extended, and high above my head. This checked her
in her course; but on looking round and missing her
comrade, and observing Ruyter slowly advancing, she
was still more exasperated, and, fancying that she was
being sm'rounded, she made another forward movement,
growling terribly. This was a moment of great danger.
I felt that my only chance of safety was extreme steadi-
ness; so, standing motionless as a rock, with my eyes
firmly fixed upon her, I called out in a clear, command-
ing voice, " Holloa ! old girl, what's the hurry? take it
easy; holloa! holloa!" She instantly once more halt-
ed, and seemed perplexed, looking round for her com-
rade. I then thought it prudent to beat a retreat, which
I very slowly did, talking to the lioness all the time.
She seemed undecided as to her future movements, and
was gazing after me and snuffing the ground when I
last beheld her.

The sun was under, and the terrific thunder which
burst around proclaimed a coming tempest: I therefore
deemed it safe to reach my camp with all possible speed,
and, having loaded my rifle, held thither at a sharp trot,
holding for the old wagon-drift to avoid having to pass
through the dense reeds. Before I reached the drift
two reitbuck dashed past me, one of which I shot and
bore to camp. On reaching camp the first move was to
refresh the person. Before, however, I could accomplish
this, the tempest was upon us; it was one of the most
violent I had experienced for years, the wind blowing a
perfect hurricane, accompanied by rattling hailstones
and rain, which fell in such torrents as in a few min-
utes to convert the dry ground into a befitting habitation
for fish or water-fowl: the thunder and lightning werrt

A VIOLENT TEMPEST. 235

most appalling, and burst and flashed above and around
us, threatening our momentary destruction. The wind
blew one side of my sail over the roof of the tent, the
sail's fastenings having been insecure, leaving myself
and my property exposed to the pelting rain, which in
a few seconds had deluged bedding, blankets, pillows,
rifles, sacks, tiger-skins, karosses, stuffed heads, &c., &c.
I, however, quickly piped all hands to bend on another
sail which I fortunately had in my wagon, and when
this was accomplished my castle was once more water-
proof. The violence of the wind had set my oxen at
liberty, and when the tempest had passed away they
were found to have passed away with it, which it may
be supposed left me in no very placid temper, this being
exactly the sort of night on which the stealthy, prowl-
ing tyrant of the wilderness is ever found to be most
active in his murderous pursuits; and, as if to add to
my anxiety on the subject, lions immediately com-
menced roaring on every side, especially to leeward,
being the course which cattle invariably take before a
storm.

When day dawned men were dispatched on the spoor
of the oxen. I was busy all the forenoon drying my
saturated property. The sun was high, and yet no
tidings of my cattle. I began to be extremely anxious.
About mid-day some of the Bakatla Bechuanas brought
me one ox ; it was " Youngman," the last of the Mohi-
cans. On beholding him a pang of sorrow shot through
my heart. He brought my melancholy losses all fresh
as at a single glance before me ; his appearance was
worn and emaciated, and it was evident that soon the
vulture and hysena would leave his whitening bones to
bleach upon the glowing plain.

Who, then, was "Youngman," that he could call up

236 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AI^KICA.

such melancholy associations? " Youngman" was the
only dying survivor of thirty selected trek-oxen which
T had chosen to accompany me into the far interior, all
of which I had seen pine away and die, and fail me in
the hour of need. The men who brought me "Young-
man" said that they had found him on the spoor of the
other cattle, and about two hours afterward I had the
satisfaction to behold all the missing truants recovered.
They had been seduced away by some young oxen I
had obtained at Bakatla, which seemed to have resolv-
ed to return to their former masters, perhaps not relish-
ing old Adonis's treatment of them in the yoke.

We now held on to the Meritsane (rendered famous
among sportsmen by Harris's glowing description of its
charms), and found it full of water. Before reaching
this point, however, I left the old-established Kuruman
wagon-road about three miles from the drift, my line
of march being to visit Mahura, chief of the Batlapis,
residing about the sources of the Hart River. This
route is by many days shorter than by the old road
and has also the advantage of being through a firr.
grassy country. As we reached the Meritsane we
started a cock and hen ostrich, with a large troop of
extremely small young ones, which did not seem larger
than Guinea-fowls.

We held on for several days through a country
abounding in game, and reached Mahura's town on the
25th. As we drew near to the town, Mahura was
pointed out to me. He was walking in company with
another old man, and carried a double-barreled per-
cussion rifle on his she ulder. He was dressed in a shirt,
waistcoat, and baggy trowsers, and wore a broad-brim-
med hat a la Boer. Halting my wagons, I wqnt up
and shook hands with him, anol asked his permission to

TRAFFIC WITH MAHURA. 237

outspan, which was graciously granted. Mahura and
his aristocracy remained with us all the evening drink-
ing my coffee, and fishing or pumping out all the news
he could from me and my natives ; and at a late hour
this ill-expressioned, cunning old tyrant took leave for
the night, requesting that I would inspan in the morning
and bring up my wagons close to his dwelling-house,
that he might enjoy as much of my society as possible
luring my stay at his town, and that we might trade
with more facility.

Accordingly, in the morning I drove up my wagons
and very soon his highness made his appearance, and re-
quested me to get ready some coffee. Presently about
a dozen fine young oxen were brought up, which he said
were to purchase powder, and after coffee we proceeded
to trading. I selected one young ox, and offered him
six pounds of powder for it. He then desired to see the
powder, and on my measuring it out he said that I
must add two more. From his manner it appeared to
me that he did not intend" to deal with me even if I
gave him what he asked; so I said I would let him
have one pound more, and if he did not like to take it
we could not dpal. He then, with the greatest non-
chalance, said, " Lay by your powder," and commenc-
ed talking on some other subject. Being very anxious
to obtain some good specimens of the large-horned oxen
of the Kalihari, and Mahura being by report in posses-
sion of some, which he had lifted from the Bawangketse,
I told him that if he would bring them up I would give
him a good price for them. He said that he had cattle
with large horns, and that he would send to one of
his outposts for two oxen which would frighten me to
look at.

la the evening the cattle came; these were two im-

238 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

mensely tall, gaunt, hollow-sided, very remarkable-look-
ing animals, and carried truly enormous horns. The
head of one of them was very handsome ; the horns were
very wide and fair set, going out quite horizontally for
some distance on leaving the head; their width, from
point to point, might have been about eight feet. This
ox was roan-colored on his face and along the top of his
back. The other was red ; his horns were thicker than
those of his comrade, and were of good length, with
very good points, but their sweep was not graceful.
They were neither of them so thick as the horns of my
red Wangketse ox, Rob Roy, which I left with Fossey,
nor by any means so handsome ; yet, nevertheless, they
were both very remarkable heads, and perhaps such an-
other pair I might never again fall in with. I told
Mahura that I possessed finer specimens, but I would
be happy to have a deal with him. He then showed
me two fine bull elephant tusks, for which I offered him
cash; but he said he had no understanding in cash,
and that he would keep them until he saw something
he stood in need of. His drift was to get one of my
valua||Je double rifles out of me.

Next day Mahura brought me the two large-horned
Kalihari oxen, and after coffee he asked me if I was
going to buy. I asked him what he wanted for the ox-
en, when'he said powder. I said that I would take them
both, and give him eight pounds of powder for each.
On hearing my offer he only laughed, and, turning
round, ordered his herds to drive the cattle back to the
post. I asked him what he v/anted for them : this he
would not state, but remarked, "You were wont to
ride by the Motito road. They may well now say,
' Alas ! we have lost that good trader ; now may Ma-
hura rejoice that that good man has gone to trade with

DRIVING GAME TO PITFALLS. 239

Mm.' " The meaning of this speech was, tliat Mochu-
ara, the chief at Motito, had presented me with an ox
earring very large horns, and that, in return, I had
given him a gun. I now considered that I had ah-eady
been too long with this ruffian, and I accordingly called
for my oxen and marched for the Vaal River, distant
a day and a half. We held on until sundown, having
halted for an hour at mid-day.

We resumed our march at daybreak on the 28th,
and held on through boundless open plains. As we ad-
vanced, game became more and more abundant. In
about two hours we reached a fine fountain, beside
which was a small cover of trees and bushes, which
afforded an abundant supply of fire-wood. Here we
outspanned for breakfast : it was a fine cool morning,
with a pleasant breeze. The country was thickly cov-
ered with immense herds of game, consisting of zebra,
wildebeest, blesbok, and springbok. There could not
have been less than five or six thousand head of game
in sight of me as I sat at breakfast. Presently the
whole of this game began to take alarm. Herd joined
herd, and took away up the wind ; and in a few min-
utes other vast herds came pouring on up the wind,
covering the whole breadth of the plain with a living
mass of noble game.

Bakalahari now hove in sight, running at intervals
across the plain, bearing parasols of black ostrich feath-
ers, which they brandished on high, to press on the pan-
ic-stricken herds. These fellows must have had good
wind, for they held on at a steady trot, exactly like wild
dogs (only that the wild dogs gallop and do not trot),
and did not allow the gane to get very far in advance.
It was evident that they were driving it to a range of
pitfalls in advance ; but being without steeds, and iq

240 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

extreme pain from a swelled ankle, I was unable to fol-
low them up and ascertain their success, as I wished
iO have done. My ankle became daily worse. I ap-
plied leeches to it at Mahura's, which helped me a lit-
tle, but the number was too small to be of great ben-
efit. I was now entirely unable to set my foot to the
ground. Carey thought it was erysipelas, and I was
very apprehensive that it would end in something ex-
tremely serious.

On the 29th we again set out, and in about three
hours we reached the fair, long-wished-for, yet much-
dreaded Vaal River. I say much dreaded, because,
from the constant rains which had continually been
falling this season, I had made up my mind that it was
not improbable I might have to lie for many months
upon the banks of this often impassable river. On this
occasion, however, to my great satisfaction, and quite
contrary to my expectations, I found the river low, and
the drift, which I had never seen before, very good, and
free from rocks or very large stones, l^he descent from
our side was easy, but the ascent from the drift on the
opposite side was steep and muddy ; and some smart
showers of rain, which had been falling during the last
two hours, had rendered it so slippery that I deemed it
best to outspan, and defer taking the drift until the
ground should dry a little in the afternoon, when I got
my wagons through in safety, taking one at a time with
twenty steady oxen.

We now made the Vet River, which flows into the
Vaal a little above the drift, and followed its course to-
ward Colesberg. This we found to be an excellent road,
but inclining too far to the east. Our march led us
through vast herds of game, which I have before spoken
of as frequenting the northern boundaries of the col-

START ON THE LAST EXPEDITION. 241

ony. On the 20th of February I crossed the Great Or-
inge River at AUeman's Drift, and entered Colesberg
uext day. I found most of my old friends still here,
and also my redoubtable friend old Murphy, as wild
and as jolly as ever.

I hired the old barracks for my residence during my
stay in Colesberg, and immediately set about sewing
up my trophies in canvas, and stowing them away in
cases. This was accomplished in about fourteen days.
A fortnight more was spent in preparing for another
hunting expedition. T purchased a new wagon from a
Mr. Emslie for d£100, and a fresh stud of sixteen horses,
a mule, and a span of oxen from various parties in town,
and subsequently I increased my stud to twenty.

CHAPTER XXXI.

Start on my fifth and last Expedition into the Interior — Mr. Orpen ac-
companies me — Hurried March — Extraordinary Herd of Blesboks —
The Hart River — Cattle attacked with Hoof Sickness — Three Lion-
esses fearfully maugle my Pack of Dogs — Lion Hunts — Hytenas de-
vour my Camp-stools — Meritsane — Six Buffaloes shot — Another Lion
Hunt — Gloi-ious Chase with Elands — Sichely's Kraal — We cross the
Limpopo — A Lion attacks my Kraal and kills an Ox — A Field of
Battle — Seboono — My hundredth Elephant! — We march down the
Limpopo and hunt Hippopotami — Attacked by Rheumatic Fever —
Mr. Orpen nearly killed by a Leopard.

On the 19th of March, 1848, I left Colesberg with
three wagons "well manned and stored," for my fifth
and last cruise in the far interior. I was joined by a
Mx. Orpen (a mighty Nimrod), who, notwithstanding
my representing to him the dangers and hardships of

'Voi.. IT.— L

242 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA,

an elephant hunting expedition in their blackest col-
ors, kindly agreed to favor me with his help and com-
pany on my lonely trip. My sojourn in Colesberg re-
duced me considerably, and I was glad once more to
breathe the fresh air of the country. We got clear of
Colesberg at about 9 A.M., and commenced our march
over the country I have so often marked with my wheel-
tracks, and which my reader must now be fully ac-
quainted with. On my way I completely recruited my
oxen and stud, and prepared myself to take the field
with an immense pack of stout, serviceable dogs. I
also engaged as after-rider a Bushman named Booi.

The game became plentiful in about ten days aftei
we left Colesberg, but when we came to the Vet River
I beheld with astonishment and delight decidedly one
of the most wonderful displays which I had witnessed
during my varied sporting career in Southern Africa
On my right and left the plain exhibited one purple
mass of graceful blesboks, which extended without a
break as far as my eyes could strain : the depth of their
vast legions covered a breadth of about six hundred
yards. On pressing upon them, they cantered along
before me, not exhibiting much alarm, taking care, how-
ever, not to allow me to ride Avithin at least four hund-
red yards of them. On, on I rode, intensely excited
with the wondrous scene before me, and hoped at length
to get to windward of at least some portion of the end-
less living mass which darkened the plain, but in vaiji.
Like squadrons of dragoons, the entire breadth of thi.?
countless herd held on their forward course as if awaro
of my iatention, and resolved not to allow me to weath-
er them.

At length I determined to play upon their ranks,
and, pressing my horse to his utmost speed, dasucd for-

VAST HERDS OF BLESBOKS. 24o

ward, and, suddenly halting, sprang from the saddle,
and, giving my rifle at least two feet of elevation, lired
right and left into one of their darkest masses. A no-
ble buck dropped to the. right barrel, and the second
shot told loudly ; no buck, however, fell, and after ly-
ing for half a minute the prostrate blesbok rose, and
was quickly lost sight of among his retreating com-
rades. In half a minute I was again loaded, and, after
galloping a few hundred yards, let drive into them, but
was still unsuccessful. Excited and annoyed at my
want of luck, I resolved to follow them up, and blaze
away while a shot remained in the locker, which I did ;
until, after riding about eight or nine miles, I found my
anfiinunition expended, and not a single blesbok bagged,
although at least a dozen must have been wounded.
It was now high time to retrace my steps and seek my
wagons. I accordingly took a point, and rode across
the trackless country in the direction for which they
were steering.

I very soon once more fell in with fresh herds of
thousands of blesboks. As it was late in the day, and
I being on the right side for the wind, the blesboks
were very tame, and allowed me to ride along within
rifle-shot of them, and those which ran charged reso-
lutely past me up the wind in long-continued streams.
I took a lucky course for the wagons, and came right
upon them, having just outspanned on the bank of the
Vet River. I could willingly have devoted a month to
blesbok shooting in this hunter's elysium, but, having
heard from a party of Bastards that the Vaal River was
low, and being extremely anxious to push on, I in-
spanned, and continued my march by moonlight. Be-
fore proceeding far we discovered the deeply-imprinted
spoor of an enormous lion, which had walked along the

244 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA,

wagon-track for several hundred yards. We continued
our march till after midnight, vast herds of blesbok
charging from us on every side. Lions were heard
roaring for the first time during this night.

On the 22d of April, after some trouble, we crossed
the Vaal River, and on the 25th reached Mahura's. 1
rode ahead of the wagons, and found the old ruffian
busily engaged witli some of his nobility in reducing
with adzes a thorn-wood tree, which was to serve as a
beam in a new dwelling-house he was about to erect.
He was astonished to see me return so soon, and ex-
pressed much satisfaction thereat. I asked Mahura if
he had still the two large-horned oxen which i had seen
when last here ; he replied, they were still forthcoming.
In half an hour the wagons arrived, and I drew them
up outside the town. The chief shortly afterward made
his appearance, and had coffee with us.

For many days back our oxen had been looking very
spare, and fallen off in condition, and one or two ex-
hibited symptoms of the tongue sickness at the Vaal
River. We now had the intense mortification to dis-
cover that nearly the whole of them were attacked with
either tongue or hoof sickness. This discovery cast a
sad gloom over our prospects. I was unacquainted
with the nature of either of the maladies, and the Hot-
tentots declared that an ox required months to recover
from either of them, and that they often proved fatal.
In this state of things, I deemed it prudent to begin to
purchase young oxen from Mahura and his tribe, and
gave him to understand that I was willing to do so.
The chief replied that his people would be unwilling
to bring their oxen, because, when I had last passed
through his country, they had brought oxen for barter,
and I had purchased none of them ; he, however, prom-

TRADING FOR CATTLE. 245

ised to acquaint them with my wishes. In the after-
noon, my wagons having outspanned at a great dis-
tance from the water, I inspanned, and trekked down
to the Hart stream, which I crossed, and drew up on
its opposite bank.

Next day the chief, instead of coming to trade as he
had given me to understand he would, held a hunting
party with a number of his people on the old Scottish
principle of the ring, a common and successful mode of
hunting among the South African tribes. On this oo
casion, however, the ring was mismanaged, and the
game broke through. In the evening one large ox was
brought foi" barter, but we did not agree about the
price. Our oxen now presented a most woeful appear-
ance, the greater part of them being very lame, and
nearly all more or less ailing. This was a most start
ling fact, and, as the Bechuanas did not seem dis
posed to bring oxen for barter, it threatened to oppose
an insurmountable barrier to our progress either back-
ward or forward.

Two hours having elapsed after breakfast the follow-
mg morning, and the chief not having made his appear-
ance according to promise, Mr. O. and I went up to
the palace to ask him what were his intentions in re-
spect to the trading. He replied that he could not
force his people to bring me oxen, but that he had in-
timated my wishes to them. I then remarked that he
would do me a friendship if he would set his people the
example by first dealing with me himself, as I knew
that I should then have no difficulty with them. The
chief, after some demur, told me that oxen would be
brought for barter, and requested me to go before him
to the wagons, and get ray coffee-kettle under weigh.
In the evening I obtained one good-looking ox from one

246 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

of his men for ammunition. When Mahura left I pre-
sented him with some sugar for his coffee and a whip-
stick.

The chief again made his appearance, accompanied
by his interpreter and several of his people, early next
day, bringing stout young cattle to barter for guns and
ammunition. Having taken coffee, the chief called me
aside, and, pointing out to me two good-looking young
oxen, said they were his, and that he wanted powder for
them. I asked him how much he would require, and
he replied that he had brought a measure, and that if
I would fill it with powder I could have the two oxen.
When I beheld the wooden measure I thought the chief
was going to drive a hard bargain with me. On filling it,
however, with powder, I found that it held about eight-
een pounds, and as this was not an exorbitant price for
two good oxen, I was very glad to get them, and I told
the chief I was satisfied with his measure. He and all
his people seemed to think they had got a bargain, and,
the example now being set, the trading went on rapid-
ly, and by sundown I had purchased twenty-two oxen,
twenty of which were quite fit for work. In the fore-
noon Mr. O. and I went to look at the cattle (which we
allowed to remain night and day in the veld), and had
the satisfaction to find a decided improvement in them.
The chief was in high spirits all day, and on leaving
me in the forenoon he said he would give me a fat cow
to kill for my people, and that he would bring me a
large-horned ox to purchase. In the evening the fat
cow was brought and slain, but the herds brought the
wrong ox, so the chief sent it back again. A cousin
of the chief, named Mokalliharri, anxious to cultivate
my good graces, gave me a fat wether. We remained
several days longer purchasing oxen, which, together

ENCOUNTER ^VITH A LION. 247

with our horses, now amounted to one hundred and
eleven, not counting our lame oxen, which we determ-
ined to leave with Mahura.

On the 3d of May we again inspanned, and held on
beyond the Hart River. The country to the west was
not frequented by the game, and here the grass was
tall and rank, and covers of considerable size of thorn-
trees and gray-leaved bushes were scattered over the
landscape : it was a still and secluded spot. I observed
several vultures soaring over one of these covers within
a quarter of a mile of the wagons, and, thinking it very
probable that they were attracted by some lion devour-
ing his prey, I ordered a couple of horses to be saddled
and rode toward the place, with one after-rider and
about a dozen of my dogs. I was right in my con-
jecture ; for, as I cantered along, I had the satisfaction
to behold a majestic old black-maned lion walking along
parallel to me, and within a hundred yards. He had
not yet observed me : he looked so dark, that at the
first glance I mistook him in the long grass for a blue
wildebeest ; next moment, however, he turned his large,
full, imposing face to me, and I knew that it was he
Shouting to the dogs with all my might, I at once
dashed toward him, followed by my after-rider at a re-
spectful distance carrying ray rifle.

The lion, as I expected, was panic-stricken, and took
to his heels, bounding through the long grass at top
speed. The dogs went at him in gallant style, I follow-
ing not far behind them, and yelling to encourage my
pack. The lion, finding we had the speed of him, re-
duced his pace to a sulky trot, and the dogs now came
up and followed, barking within a few yards on each
side of him. In half a minute more I had passed ahead
and halted my horse for a shot ; but, looking round for

248 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

my after-rider, wlio carried my rifle, T beheld hiri slow-
ly approaching with pallid countenance at least a hund-
red yards behind. The lion now faced about, and,
springing on Shepherd, one of my favorite dogs, he lay
for several seconds upon him, and, having bitten him
so that he could not rise, continued his course. A few
moments after he knocked over another dog, called
Vixen, which escaped with a slight scratch. The lion
had now gained the edge of a small cover, and Booi,
coming up at a very easy pace, handed me my rifle.
In another minute the noble beast came to bay in a
thick bush, and, facing round, lay down to await our
attack. I then rode up to within twelve yards of him,
and, halting my horse, ended the grim lion's career
with a single ball behind the shoulder, cutting the
main arteries close to the heart. On receiving the ball
his head dropped to the ground, and, gasping for a mo-
ment, he expired. I dismounted, and, plucking a lock
of hair from his mane, placed it in my bosom and re-
turned to camp, having been absent barely ten minutes.

After breakfast a party went to inspect the lion and
bring home his trophies. On proceeding to seek for
Shepherd, the dog which the lion had knocked over in
the chase, I found him with his back broken and his
bowels protruding from a gash in the stomach ; I was,
therefore, obliged to end his misery with a ball.

We marched again at sunrise, and at about 10 A.M.
1 drew up my wagons beside the large pan where I had
been storm-stayed for a week last season. On the
march I shot a springbok ; and observing vultures, Mr.
O. and I rode toward them with a troop of the dogs, in
the hope- of falling in with a lion, but were disappointed.
In the afternoon, directing the wagons to follow, I rode
ahead with Booi, and on reaching the next large pan

SLAUGHTER OF THE DOGS. 249

drew the cover lying to the south of it, expecting to
find a lion. When the wagons came up I formed my
camp beside the thorn-grove, and, observing a herd of
blue wildebeests making for my cattle, I proceeded to
waylay them, and fired two long shots. Next minute
Booi came up to me, and said that on my firing he had
observed a lion stick his head up in the long grass in
the vley opposite to me. I felt inclined to doubt the
veracity of his optics. I sent him. back, however, with
instructions to bring eight dogs ; but Booi thought the
whole pack would be better, and returned with thirty.
I then rode direct for the spot where the lion was
supposed to be. Booi was correct ; and on drawing
near, two savage lionesses sat up in the grass and
growled fiercely at us. An unlacky belt of reeds, about
sixty yards long and twenty broad, intervened between
me and the lionesses, and on perceiving their danger
they at once dashed into this cover : then followed the
most woeful cutting up and destj-uction among my best
and most valuable dogs. The lionesdbs had it all their
own way. In vain I rode round and round the small
cover, endeavoring to obtain a peep of them, which
would have enabled me to put a speedy conclusion to
the murderous work within. The reeds were so tall
and dense, that, although the lionesses were often at
bay within eight or ten yards of me, it was impossible
to see them. At length one came outside the cover on
the opposite side, when I fired a shot from the saddle.
My horse was unsteady ; nevertheless I wounded her,
and, acknowledging the shot with angry growls, she
re-entered the reeds.

A number of the dogs, which had gone off" after a
herd of blue wildebeests, now returned, and, coming
down through the long grass, started a third lioness,

L2

250 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

which came growling down into the cover and joined
her comrades. This was the signal for my united pack
to make a bold sally into the center of the lions' den,
when they were savagely met by the three lionesses,
who rushed furiously up and down, knocking the dogs
about with just as much facility as three cats would
have disposed of the same number of mice. For sev-
eral minutes nothing was to be heard but the crashing
of the reeds, the growling of the lions, and the barking
and shrieking of the mangled pack : it was truly a most
painful moment to my feelings. Carey, who had come
up to assist, remarked to me that " there was an awful
massacree going on among the dogs;" and he was right.
Night now setting in put an end to this horrid work,
and, with feelings of remorse and deep regret at my
folly in not having at once called off my poor dogs, I
wended my way to camp. On numbering the slain,
three of my best hounds were found to have forfeited
their lives in the unequal contest, and seven or eight
more were very badly wounded, exposing the most
fearful gashes, from which several of them never re-
covered. While I was occupied with the lions my fol-
lowers were forming a kraal for the cattle.

Before the day began to break next morning lions
were heard roaring to the west : accordingly, I rode in
that direction with Booi and a detachment of dogs, still
resolved to follow the king of beasts, notwithstanding
the disasters of the former day. Having ridden about
a mile, we reached the end of a long piece of cover,
averaging a hundred yards in breadth, where I at once
discovered the fresh spoor of a troop of lions. The dogs
took it up and followed on at a wary pace, the hair
bristling on their backs. On reaching the end of this
cover a second one appeared several hundred yards to

ENCOUNTER -WITH LIONS. 251

my right, while a little to my left was a small vley,
and here I observed a jackal steal away, while a crow
sounded his ominous voice in advance.

These signs bid fair for the proximity of lions, and I
remarked to Booi that we must be upon them ; it was
so. Next moment I observed a yellowish form on a
barish spot two hundred yards ahead, which we knew
must be the lion, and thither we rode at top speed. On
observing us he raised his noble head, but quickly
again laid it flat on the ground, intending to crouch in
the hope that we should pass him by unnoticed. Within
twenty yards of him lay a noble lioness, with two half-
grown young lions. On seeing that our course was
direct for where they lay, they bounded up and charged
for the cover to our right, the old lion displaying more
cowardice than either his royal spouse or the young
lions, and taking the lead at the best pace that he could
muster. I did not wait for my rifle, but shouting to my
dogs I pressed forward and tried to cut off" his retreat.
I was even with him and the lioness, and within twenty
yards, when they reached the cover, which they sullenly
entered. The dogs seemingly were apprehensive of fol-
lowing too near such dangerous game, probably warned
by the fate of their comrades on the preceding day.

The noble game having thus retreated, I placed Booi
at one end of the cover to keep watch, while I rode to the
other end to beat up through the center with the dogs.
Twice I drew the cover unsuccessfully, but the third
time the dogs found the lioness lying under a bushy
tree. Then followed a bay, when I rode up and gave
her both barrels behind the shoulder, which partially
disabled her. My third shot entered beside her eye and
blew away the entire half of her brain-pan. When rid-
ing up I had heard a dog shriek, and on looking round

252 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

me I beheld poor Vitberg, a valuable dog, and one that
was extremely attached to me, lying on the ground
utterly disabled, with his hip so fearfully mangled that
I was obliged to blow his brains out.

A fourth time we drew the cover for the old lion, but
were still unsuccessful. Booi and I then skinned the
lioness, cut off her head, and returned to camp. Shortly
after reaching the wagons I observed a blue wildebeest
approaching my cattle, which I stalked and shot. The
afternoon set in with a most terrific hail-storm, such as
I had never before witnessed ; many of the stones were
from two to three inches in diameter. The storm came
on with a sound resembling the roaring of the sea : a
dense intervening fall of rain obscuring our view, we
were at a loss to think what it could be. The storm
sent our cattle and horses flying before it for miles
across the plain, and they were hardly recovered before
the sun was under. It blew a gale of wind throughout
the first half of the night, tremendous showers of hail
and rain succeeding one another in quick succession,
accompanied by appalling thunder and lightning.

As the day broke we heard lions moaning to the west,
and I rode in quest of them, accompanied by Mr. O.
and Carey, with a detachment of dogs. In drawing
the cover beside which I had found the lions yesterday,
I came upon two young lions, one of which, standing
to give us battle, I finished with two shots : his com-
rade stole away, but after a sharp burst the dogs ran
him to bay, when I rode up, and, dismounting, flogged
the dogs off, and slew him with a single shot in the skull.

The next morning, which was the 9th, for several
hours before the day diiwned, a lion stood roaring ter-
ribly on a bushy eminence within two hundred yards
of the wagons, and held west just as it became light,

THE CAMP ROBBED BY IIY^?JAS. 253

roaring occasionally as he went. We determined to
give him battle if we could only find him, and before it
was clear we were in our saddles pricking along the
edge of the vley, accompanied by about a dozen of the
dogs, who started the noble beast, but he got away un-
seen by any of us.

Our dogs kept up an incessant barking during the
night, and we imagined that lions were prowling around
our camp. In the morning, however, we discovered that
we had been favored with the presence of far less illus-
trious, yet more presuming visitors. A pack of auda-
cious hyaenas had visited our fireside, and, not content
with cracking and swallowing the bones which they
found there, they had eaten our table-cloth, which con-
sisted of the skin of a sable antelope, and carried off
the lid of our canteen and two large camp-stools, which
I lately had made to order in Colesberg. One of these
we had the good fortune to recover, minus the rheim-
pys ; the other will probably be found in after years,
and preserved as a Beehuana or Bushman relic.

On the 12th I drew up my wagons on the north bank
of the famous Meritsane. Here I had the pleasure to
find that, owing to a large tract of the country having
been burned by the Bakalahari some months previous-
ly, and favored by the rainy season, a rich and verdant
crop of young grass had sprung up, giving the undu-
lating plains a fresh and vernal appearance. I was de-
lighted on beholding this, for I knew that it would have
the effect of attracting the game hither from all the sur-
rounding parts, and I confidently hoped to fall in with
elands, as they are generally met with by the foremost
hunters in the vicinity of the Meritsane. Having break-
fasted, I saddled up three of my fleetest steeds, and, ac-
companied by two after-riders, rode forth in a north-

254 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

erlj direction, and carefully sought for eland's spoor,
Presently I crossed the old Kuruman road, and imme-
diately discovered fresh spoor, similar to that of elands,
but, in my opinion, a little too large. In a buffalo coun-
try I should have at once pronounced it to be the spoor
of buffaloes, but these for many years had not frequent-
ed the Meritsane, and were not to be expected nearer
than the Molopo. Even in the days of Harris, twelve
years ago or upward, buffaloes had forsaken the Merit-
sane. As I rode on, the spoor became more abundant,
and very soon fresh dung disclosed to me that a very
large herd of buffaloes had lately pastured there.

The spoor of zebras, blue wildebeests, hartebeests,
and sassaybies was extremely abundant, and of all these
I fell in with very considerable herds. I had resolved,
however, not to disturb the country, for fear of starting
any elands which might be there, and rode past, leav-
ing them unmolested. After proceeding for many miles,
I had the mortification to ascertain that only a very few
elands now frequented these parts, and after a fruit-
less search for these few I turned my face for camp,
and resolved to fire into whatever game I might fall in
with. I yached a large herd of blue wildebeests and a
herd of hartebeests, and was very unfortunate, wound-
ing several, but failing to secure one. This was to me
most particularly annoying, our flesh in camp being
completely exhausted, and my large pack of dogs fam-
ishing. I resolved, therefore, to march next morning
for Lotlokane, and hunt in advance of the wagons.

The next day I rode forth with one after-rider, re-
solved to do my best to supply the deficiency in camp.
t directed the wagons to follow, and outspan at the
Plat Rocks, half way to Lotlokane. I had proceeded
out a short distance when I had the satisfaction to be«

A HERD OF BUFFALOES. 255

hold a magnificent herd of buffaloes quietly pasturing
.within half a mile of me on the opposite bank of the
Meritsane. This was a first-rate look-out, and exactly
what I stood in need of, considering the present low
state of my commissariat. I returned to meet the wag-
ons, where I saddled another steed, named Brown, which
was steady under fire, and once more rode forth, accom-
panied by Mr. O., with two after-riders, and a large de-
tachment of the dogs, resolved to deal death among
the buffaloes. We rode to leeward of the herd to give
the dogs their wind, and then galloped in upon them.
At first, bewildered, they stood gazing at us until we
were within thirty yards of them, when, seeing their
danger, a panic spread throughout the whole herd, and,
wheeling about, they crashed along through the under-
wood in a dense mass, impeding one another's progress.
In two minutes I was alongside of the herd, and, dis-
mounting, fired right and left into two old cows ; one
of these immediately dropped to the rear of the troop,
and, staggering for a few seconds, fell over and ex-
pired. The herd now left the river and doubled back,
passing through a belt of low cover. I halted a mo-
ment to load. Following on, I came right upon the
other buffalo that I had wounded, standing with a com-
rade in a dense bush. I observed her before she could
charge me, and three more shots laid her low. The re-
ports of Mr. O.'s gun now sounded ahead, and, gallop-
ing forward, I observed him to my right actively en-
gaged with four old buffaloes, which stood at bay in a
large bush in the open country : the herd had vanished.
A single buffalo, however, was at this moment making
off between me and Mr. O., to which I gave chase.
My after-rider was up first, and headed it, when the
buffalo charged him furiously, and next moment she

256 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

charged me, but my trusty steed was too active for her,
and I bowled her over with two good shots in the shoul-,
der. I then rode up to assist Mr. O. Two of the four
buffaloes were lying wounded in the bush. Riding up
within forty yards of them, I fired into a fine old cow,
when she and her comrade broke bay, and took down
to the river. Some of my dogs now came up to my
assistance, and brought the wounded buffalo to bay in
the stream, and two more shots laid her low.

I then rode to meet my wagons, which were stand-
ing on the rising ground above ; and as I was direct-
ing my men where to draw up, I observed two more
buffaloes coming down the river's side, which, observ-
ing us, took shelter in a belt of lofty reeds. Most of
my dogs having come up, I resolved to have another
chase, and rode straight for the reeds where the buffa-
loes had disappeared. I came right upon a noble bull,
within four yards of him. Fortunately for me, he did
not charge, but broke away up the river side, followed
by the dogs. He led me a sharp chase, and came to
bay at last, when he fell with two shots within thirty
yards of the second cow I had shot in the commence-
ment of the chase. This made five old buffaloes I had
bagged out of the herd ; Mr. O. bagged his two, making
in all seven.

After breakfast I dispatched men with two spans of
oxen, directing them to select four of the fattest buffa-
loes and drag them to the wagons. All hands were
busy butchering and salting until sundown. In the
evening I went out with my rifle in quest of a buffalo
calf which had been left by the herd in the morning.
On observing me, the savage young buffalo, to my ut-
ter astonishment, turned upon me, and charged down
in the most determined manner. I stood his charge,

A HUGE LION SHOT. 257

with my rifle at my shoulder, and, covering his fore-
head until he was within four yards of mo, arrested him
in full career with a ball in the forehead.

Three of the buffaloes which we had shot having
been left in the veld, I deemed it more than probable
that a lion might be found on some one of them if
sought for at early dawn ; accordingly, having substi-
tuted a bowl of warm milk for coffee, I rode forth with
an after-rider and a troop of my dogs to seek the king
of beasts. On gaining the first buffalo, I found that
my natives had left a flag of peace flying over him,
which had guarded him from the attacks of the beasts
of prey. Upon the second buffalo, however, a hundred
vultures were feasting merrily ; but, as I approached
the third, the sudden rush of a flight of vultures over
my head toward the buffalo told me that some occu-
pant which had hitherto kept them aloof had that mo-
ment quitted the carcass, and on galloping forward and
clearing an intervening rising ground, I had the satis-
faction to behold a huge and shaggy lion trotting slow-
ly off toward the cover along the banks of the river,
within two hundred yards of me.

I instantly rode for him at top speed to get my dogs
clear of the carrion, and, if possible, to bring the lion to
bay before he should gain any bad cover. We came
up with him just as he gained a small belt of reeds on
the river's bank. The lion sprang into the river's bed
and stood at bay. Riding up within fifteen yards, I dis-
abled him with a shot in the shoulder, and then, spring-
ing from my horse, which was unsteady, went up to
within twelve yards on foot, and finished him with my
second shot, which he got behind the shoulder. This
was a fine old lion, with perfect tusks and a very beau-
tiful coat of hair. Leaving Booi to protect him from

258 ADVENTI RES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

the vultures, I rode to camp, and dispatched men with
instructions to flay him with the utmost care. In the
afternoon I inspanned, intending to march, but con.tin-
ued showers of rain prevented me. Next day, how-
ever, we reached Lotlokane.

As morning dawned on the 16th a lion roared to the
north within a quarter of a mile of us, and shortly after
two other lions moaned to the east. I rode in quest of
them with dogs and an after-rider. Hartebeests, ze-
bras, and pallahs were standing about in all directions,
and, leading my dogs away, I failed to find the lion.
In the forenoon, anxious to obtain a gemsbok, I sad-
dled up my three fleetest steeds, and rode in a north-
erly direction, with two after-riders, taking with me a
light single-barreled gun. I started several fine stein-
boks, which are here abundant. Having ridden a few
miles, T entered upon a magnificent level park, thickly
adorned with groves of thorn-trees, on which were graz-
ing large herds of blue wildebeests, zebras, hartebeests,
and springboks. Knowing that eland and gemsbok are
generally to be found in the vicinity of herds of other
game, I resolved to ride in a semicircle to windward of
these, and carefully examine the ground for the game
I sought.

Having made a sweep for this purpose, we were
slowly returning, when four superb elands charged up-
wind right in our faces. To these we instantly gave
chase. Booi, coming up first, singled out the heaviest
bull, which he broke from the troop, and drove toward
camp. Coming up with the remaining three, I select-
ed the best head, and, after a sharp chase, laid him low
wicii a single ball in the shoulder. I then rode to as-
sist Booi, who was about a quarter of a mile to wind-
ward on the plain below me ; and, coming up to him,

THE LIMPOPO AGAIN. 259

we cannily drove on the noble eland, which we suc-
ceeded in bringing right up to the wagons, where I
bowled him over with two shots in the shoulder. Not
yet having a stuffed bull eland's head, and this being
a fair specimen, I directed it to be cut off for my col-
lection.

We now held on for the Molopo,. upon the banks of
which I had some fine sport with roan antelope and reit-
buck, and on the 29th of May reached Sichely's kraal
on the Kouleubeng.

Within a mile of this chiePs residence we were met
by parties of the Baquaines : these men had been sent
by Sichely to ascertain who we were, he having heard
from some Bakalahari that three wagons were at hand.
I saddled up and rode ahead of the wagons with Mr.
Livingstone's letters.

On the 31st we again inspanned and held on for the
Limpopo, reaching my old drift on that river on the 15th
of June.

The greater part of the day was devoted to cutting
down the opposite bank and getting the wagons through,
which we accomplished by sundown, taking each wag-
on through with twenty oxen.

On the 18th, the moon being full, I crossed the river
with Mr. Orpen, Carey, and attendants, and made for
the fountain at Charebe, in the hope of enjoying some
night shooting with elephants. We had the ill luck to
alarm the elephants frequenting the water and to drive
them out of the district. On the 23d, as I was return-
ing to camp from the water at Guapa, we suddenly
heard the cry of elephants about a quarter of a mile to
windward. I took Ramachumie along with me, and
\e\<\ forward for an inspection of the troop.

ThM cries of elephants were repeated in difforeut ai-

260 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

rections, and I at once knew that there must be a very
large herd of them. Having ascended a lofty thorn-tree,
I obtained a view of the gray backs of some of the ele-
phants appearing above the underwood of the forest. I
sent Ramachumie back to bring up the dogs, and when
they came I rode forward for a nearer inspection. It
was a troop of upward of a hundred elephants, but it
consisted entirely of cows and young bulls. Having
endeavored for nearly half an hour to select a good ele-
phant, I crept in within fifteen yards of a fairish bull,
and gave him a shot behind the shoulder : my follow-
ers, however, failed to slip the dogs or to bring on my
horse, and while I ran back for them the elephant got
away in the herd. The dogs attacked another bull,
which, after a long chase, I rolled over. The elephant
had scarcely fallen, when old Mutehuisho, with a party
of Bamangwato men, came up like a flight of vultures
in quest of flesh. The next day I shot another ele-
phant.

On the 29th I again inspanned, and in the afternoon
crossed the Mocoolwey and drew up on its opposite
bank. On the march I hunted ahead of the wagons,
and shot a water-buck and doe, and started a troop of
seven or eight lions, headed by a patriarchal-looking old
fellow of unusual size.

One long march across the country on the next day
brought the wagons to the Basileka. I hunted ahead
of the wagons, and shot two pallahs and a cow camel-
opard. We formed the wagons at my old camp; but,
observing tsetse on the horses, I at once resolved to leave
SeJeka's on the morrow.

Ahoat midnight a huge lion made a most daring at-
tack on my cattle kraal, charging recklessly liirough
the thick thorn hedge : he sent the panic-stricken cat'

A HEART-SICKENING SIGHT. 261

tie flying in dire confusion, and dashed to the ground a
valuable ox, which lay groaning in his powerful grasp.
I was awakened by the noise, and, instantly directing
a troop of the dogs to be let loose, the cowardly lion
was put to flight. The poor ox sprang to his feet and
joined his companions, but I was obliged to shoot him
next day, his fore and hind quarters having been fear-
fully lacerated.

About 9 A.M. I left Seleka's, and at sundown halted
on the Limpopo, opposite Guapa.

Here I remained for many days, making successful
excursions with Mr. Orpen across the river in search
of elephants. On these occasions, however, and like-
wise upon all subsequent encounters with the ele-
phants, I had the mortification to remark, that on com-
ing up with them, my followers invariably yielded to a
natural impulse, and thus throughout the entire expe-
dition the whole brunt of the elephant hunting lay upon
my shoulders, not a single elephant being bagged or
even wounded by any individual in my establishment
except myself

On our return from one of these expeditions we came
upon a heart-sickening sight. The Bamalette tribe,
through whose district we were now hunting, had been
attacked and put to flight by Sicomy a few months be-
fore, when a large number of them were massacred, in
consequence of which they had deserted their former
town and ensconced themselves in an elevated ravine
in the mountains. We visited their deserted town and
the ground over which they had been pursued and slain.
We were horrified to behold the bleaching bones and
skulls of those who had fallen ; the wolf and jackal had
feasted on their remains, and laid the long grass flat
round each skeleton, and the blood was still visible

262 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

upon the stones. Hair and torn fragments of karosses
lay scattered around.

On the 12th I had another hard day in the mount-
ains after elephants, and at night I watched a fountain
and shot an old lioness. She came and drank within
ten yards of me ; the ball entered the center of her
breast, and rested in the skin in the middle of her back.

On the 13th I dispatched men to camp with the skin
of the lioness, and held south for Charcbe, M'hich I found
still deserted by the elephants. In the evening the na-
tives were all busy cooking the flesh of the lioness,
which was excessively fat, and esteemed by them a par-
ticular delicacy.

On the 25th of July, at sunrise, we inspanned and
held down the river, leaving three more of my stud be-
hind me, two dead and the other dying of tsetse. At
sundown we halted about twenty miles down the river.
While on our march next morning we came across the
fresh spoor of a troop of bull elephants, when I imme-
diately outspanned. I was proceeding to follow up the
elephants' spoor, when I was met by a party of Bak-
alahari, who informed me that other elephants had
drunk on the opposite side, and some miles higher up
the river, during the night. I resolved to go there in
quest of them. "We crossed the Limpopo at a most
rocky drift, where the horses were in danger of break-
ing their legs, and, holding up the river, took up the
spoor of three old bulls. Having followed it for five
miles, we at length got into a country so densely cov-
ered with locusts that the spoor was no longer visible.
A large herd of elephants had, during several previous
nights, however, been there feasting upon these in-
sects. After a little while we made a cast in advance,
and again discovered the spoor of the three bulls, and

ELEPHANT HUNTING. 263

came np with them about an hour before sundown, in
company with a noble troop of about fifteen other bull
elephants, and, the wind being favorable, they were not
aware of our approach. While riding slowly round
them on the lee side, endeavoring to select the best
bull, a splendid old fellow broke across from my right,
whose ivory far surpassed any other in the herd. To
him I accordingly adhered, and laid him low after an
easy battle, having only given him five shots. I re-
ceived no assistance from my dogs, they, as is often the
case, having packed upon the worst elephant in the
troop. The tusks of this huge elephant being unusual-
ly perfect, I resolved to preserve the entire skull. I ac-
cordingly sent a messenger to camp to instruct my peo-
ple to bring a wagon for the head, while I stood sentry
over it. Three days passed before the wagon appeared,
hcving had to cross the Limpopo at a ford many^miles
above my camp. I occupied myself in the mean time
in preparing the feet of the elephant, which I preserved.

In a few days we reached the fountain of Seboono,
at which I watched for several nights, and slew some
fine old elephants with splendid tusks. I hunted, as
during last season, by moonlight with dogs, and by the
24th of August had the satisfaction of making up my
bag to a hundred and five select elephants killed in
South Africa. We now found the district to be much
deserted by the elephants, and accordingly inspanhed
the wagons on the 3d of September, and marched down
the Limpopo toward the district frequented by hippo-
potami.

On the 4th I rode up the river to shoot hippopotami.
Of these I found three troops, and bagged one first-rate
bull and wounded others. I saw several crocodiles of
unusual vastness. Some cf them must hiive been six-

264 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

teen feet in length, with bodies as large as that of an
ox. Returning to the wagons in the evening, I heard
Mr. O. engaged with a huge, invincible old bull hippo-
potamus. On going to his assistance, and finding that
he had expended his ammunition, I attacked the hip-
popotamus, which I barely finished with six or eight
more shots.

We rode down the river for several mornings hunt-
ing after hippopotami, a great number of which we
killed. As the tusks of some of these were very fine,
we chopped them out of the jaw-bones, a work of con-
siderable difficulty. On the 17th I was attacked with
acute rheumatic fever, which kept me to my bed, and
gave me excruciating pain. While I lay in this help-
less state, Mr. Orpen and Present, who had gone up
the river to shoot sea-cows, fell in with an immense
male Jeopard, which the latter wounded very badly.
They then sent natives to camp to ask me for dogs, of
which I sent them a pair. In about an hour the na-
tives came running to camp and said that Orpen was
killed by the leopard. On further inquiry, however, I
found that he vras not really killed, but fearfully torn
and bitten about the arms and head. They had rashly
taken up the spoor on foot, the dogs following behind
them, instead of going in advance. The consequence
of this was, that they came right upon the leopard be-
fore they were aware of him, when Orpen fired and
missed him. The leopard then sprang on his shoulders,
and, dashing him to the ground, lay upon him growl-
ing and lacerating his hands, arms, and head most fear-
fully. Presently the leopard permitted Orpen to rise
and come away. Where were the gallant Present and
all the natives, that not a man of them moved to assist
the unfortunate Orpen ? According to an establishf)d

HELPLESS CONDITION. 265

custom among all colonial servants, the instant the
leopard sprang he discharged his piece in the air, and
then, dashing it to the ground, rushed down the bank
and sprang into the river, along which he swam some
hundred yards before he would venture on terra firma.
The natives, though numerous and armed, had like-
wise fled in another direction.

CHAPTER XXXIL

Mr. Orpen and myself in a helpless Condition — We leave the low-lying
-' ■• iipopo for the Mountains — Trading with Seleka — Ceremony to im
part the Power of successful Shooting — March to the Ngotwani and
retrace our Steps to the Limpopo — Enormous Herds of Buffaloes —
Au exciting Lion Hunt — Three of my Dogs killed — The noble Beast
takes the Water, followed by a Dog and a Crocodile — A bold Mount-
ain Ranger — Abundance of Game — A brilliant Lion Hunt — Two killed
out of a Troop of four — Rhinoceros Hunting — Leave the Mariqua
River — Sublime Scenery — Another Lion Hunt — A Buffalo rips up my
After-rider's Horse — Camelopard Chase — Making a Road to cross
the Ngotwani — Sudden Encounter with two huge Lions — Arrival at
Sichely's Kraal.

Both Orpen and myself were now reduced to a state
of utter helplessness — he from his wounds, which were
many and dangerous, and I from the fever, though I
was slowly recovering. It was of no use, therefore, to
remain longer in the low-lying district about the Lim-
popo, so I resolved to march on steadily to Sichely's
country. We accordingly marched on the 27th of Sep-
tember, and on the 2d of October encamped on tiie
bank of the Limpopo, a little above its junction with
the Lepalala. Here Seleka's men requested me to halt
a day, as their chief wished to trade with me, which T
agreed to do.

V„i. IT.— M

266 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Next morning Seleka arrived with a considerable
retinue, bringing some good specimens of Bechuana
arms to barter for muskets and ammunition. He made
me a present of some Bechuana beer, and a sort of
fermented porridge ; this, he said, he considered as a
gift, but he expected that I, in return, would give him
some gunpowder. This is the usual style of presents
in Southern Africa.

In the afternoon I exchanged a musket for nine very-
handsome assagais, a battle-ax, and two shields of buf-
falo hide. I also exchanged some assagais for ammu-
nition, and obtained other articles of native manufac-
ture in payment for cutting the arms of two or three
of the nobility, and rubbing medicine into the incis...riS,
to enable them to shoot well. While performing this
absurd ceremony, in which the Bechuanas have un-
bounded faith, I held before the eyes of the initiated
sportsman prints of each of the game quadrupeds of the
country ; at the same time anointing him with the
medicine (which was common turpentine), and looking
him most seriously in the face, I said, in his own lan-
guage, "Slay the game well; let the course of thy
bullet be through the hearts of the wild beasts, thine
hand and heart be strong against the lion, against the
great elephant, against the rhinoceros, against the buf-
falo," &c.

On the 0th we marched at sunrise, and, trekking
steadily along, arrived on the 8th at the drift on the
Limpopo where, on the former occasion, I had crossed
the river. The game was very abundant in our course,
but Carey and Present were rarely successful in killing,
and I was obliged, at length, weak as I was, to take
the field, as we were sadly in want of flesh. On the
13th W3 made the banks of the Ngotwani. u|> which

ENORMOUS HERDS OF BUFFALOES. 267

we proceeded for several days ; but, finding that there
was scarcely any water in it, and that it would be im-
possible to reach Sichely's country by this route, I de-
termined to retrace my steps. We accordingly marched
for the Limpopo, which I fell in with once more on the
23d, having killed a noble old lion in my way.

We trekked up along the banks of the river for the
Mariqua, and a little before sundown fell in with two
enormous herds of buffaloes, one of which, consisting
chiefly of bulls, stood under the shady trees on one side
of the bank, while the other, composed chiefly of cows
and calves, stood on the opposite side, a little higher up
the river. In all there were at least three hundred.
Thinking it probable that if I hunted them I might kill
some old bull with a head perhaps worthy of my collec-
tion, I ordered my men to outspan, and, having saddled
steeds, gave chase to the herd of bulls, accompanied by
Booi and my dogs. After a short burst they took
through the river, whereby I lost sight of an old bull
which carried the finest head in the herd. My dogs,
however, brought a cow to bay as they crossed the
river, which I shot standing in the water, but not before
siie had killed a particularly favorite bull-dog named
Pompey. I then continued the chase, and again came
up with the herd, which was now considerably scat-
tered ; and after a sharp chase, part of which was
through thick wait-a-bit thorn cover, I brought eight
or nine fine bulls to bay in lofty reeds at the river's
margin, exactly opposite to my camp: of these I singled
out the two best heads, one of which I shot with five
balls, and wounded the other badly, but he made off
while" I was engaged with his comrade.

In the morning I instructed four of my people to
cross the river and bring over a supply of bufialo beef

268 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFllICA.

These men were very reluctant to go, fearing a lion
might have taken possession of the carcass. On pro-
ceeding to reconnoiter from our side, they beheld the
majestic beast they dreaded walk slowly up the opposite
bank from the dead buffalo, and take up a position on
the top of the bank under some shady thorn-trees. I
resolved to give him battle, and rode forth with my
double-barreled Westley Richards rifle, followed by
men leading the dogs. Present, who was one of the
party, carried his roer, no doubt to perform wonders.
The wind blew up the river ; I held up to seek a drift,
and crossed a short distance above where the buffalo lay.
As we drew near the spot, I observed the lion sitting
on the top of the bank, exactly where he had been seen
by my people. On my right, and within two hundred
yards of me, was a very extensive troop of pallahs,
which antelope invariably manages to be in the way
when they are not at all wanted. On this occasion,
however, I succeeded in preventing my dogs from ob-
serving them. When the lion saw us coming, he over-
hauled us for a moment, and then slunk down the bank
for concealment. Being well to leeward of him, I or-
dered the dogs to be slipped, and galloped forward.

On finding that he was attacked, the lion at first
made a most determined bolt for it, followed by all the
dogs at a racing pace; and when they came up with
him he would not bay, but continued his course down
the bank of the river, keeping close in beside the reeds,
growling terribly at the dogs, which kept up an inces-
sant angry barking. The bank of the river was inter-
sected by deep water-courses, and, the ground being ex-
tremely slippery from the rain which had fallen during
the night, I was unable to overtake him until he came
to bay in a patch of lofty dense reeds which grew on the

ENCOUNTER WITH A LION. 269

lower bank, immediately adjacent to the river's mar-
gin. I had brought out eleven of my dogs, and before
I could come up three of them were killed. On reach-
ing the spot I found it impossible to obtain the small-
est glimpse of the lion, although the ground favored me,
I having the upper bank to stand upon ; so, dismount-
ing from my horse, I tried to guess, from his horrid
growling, his exact position, and fired several shots on
chance, but none of these hit him. I then commenced
pelting him with lumps of earth and sticks, there being
no stones at hand. This had the effect of making him
shift his position, but he still kept in the densest part
of the reeds, where I could do nothing with him.

Presently my followers came up, who, as a matter of
course, at once established themselves safely in the tops
of thorn-trees. After about ten minutes' bullying, the
lion seemed to consider his quarters too hot for him,
and suddenly made a rush to escape from his persecu-
tors, continuing his course down along the edge of the
river. The dogs, however, again gave him chase, and
soon brought him to bay in another dense patch of reeds,
just as bad as the last. Out of this in a few minutes
1 managed to start him, when he bolted up the river,
and came to bay in a narrow strip of reeds. Here ha
lay so close that for a long time I could not ascertain
his whereabouts ; at length, however, he made a charge
among the dogs, and, coming forward, took up a posi-
tion near the outside of the reeds, where for the first
time I was enabled to give him a shot. My ball enter-
ed his body a little behind the shoulder. On receiving
it, he charged growling after the dogs, but not furthei
than the edge of the reeds, out of which he was ex-
tremely reluctant to move. I gave him a second shot,
firing for his head ; my ball entered at the edge of his

270 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

eye, and passed through the back of the roof of his
mouth.

The lion then sprang up, and, facing about, dashed
through the reeds and plungod into the river, across
which he swam, dyeing the waters with his blood ; one
black dog, named " Schwart," alone pursued him. A
huge crocodile, attracted by the blood, followed in their
wake, but fortunately did not take my dog, which I
much feared he would do. Present fired at the lion as
he swam, and missed him ; both my barrels were empty.
Before, however, the lion could make the opposite bank,
I had one loaded without patch, and just as his feet
gained the ground I made a fine shot at his neck, and
turned him over dead on the spot. Present, CaroUus,
and Adonis then swam in and brought him through.
We landed him by an old hippopotamus foot-path, and,
the day being damp and cold, we kindled a fire, beside
which, we skinned him. While this was going forward
I had a painful duty to perform, viz., to load one bar-
rel, and blow out Rascality's brains, whom the lion had
utterly disabled in his after-quarters. Thus ended this
protracted and all but unsuccessful hunt; for when I
at length managed to shoot him, the dogs were quite
tired of it, and, the reeds being green, I could not have
set them on fire to force him out.

The lion proved to be a first-rate one; he was in the
prime of life, and had an exquisitely beautiful coat of
hair. His mane was not very rank ; his awful teeth
were quite perfect, a thing which in lions of his age is
rather unusual; and he had the finest tuft of hair on
the end of his tail that I had ever seen in a lion. In
the chase my after-rider, who fortunately did not carry
n' J rifle, got a tremendous capsize from bad riding, a
c vnmon occurrence with most after-riders who have

THE MARIQUA. 271

bCLti employed in my service. The afternoon was
spent in drying the wet main of the lion, skinning out
the feet, and preserving the skin with alum and arsen-
ical soap.

On the 27th we reached the junction of the Mariqua
with the Limpopo, when we once more bade farewell to
the latter, and held up the northern bank of the Mari-
qua. This fine little river averages here about five or
six yards in width, and meanders along in a very ser-
pentine course through a very broad open vley, its
banks being in many places destitute of cover, except-
ing reeds, and in others is densely clad with groves of
thorn and willow trees, &c. Here I found reitbuck,
which do not frequent the Limpopo in those parts which
I have visited. The^country looked fresh and green, and
all the usual varieties of game were abundant. Ele-
phants had been frequenting the district some months
previously, but had now deserted it. Atout fifty miles
to the south and east a very bold and rocky extensive
blue mountain chain towered in grand relief above the
intervening level forest. The length of this mountain
chain seemed to be about a hundred miles, its course
about northeast, and it gradually became loftier and
more rugged toward the northeastern extremity. I be-
heve the Limpopo rises somewhere to the east of this
chain, and I felt a strong desire to follow it to its source,
but under existing circumstances this measure was not
advisable. On the march we passed a small village of
Bakalahari, which was surrounded with heaps of bones
and skulls of game.

Next day we marched about eight miles up the river,
Lnd outspanned in a wide open vley. On the march I
shot one sassayby, and wounded two black rhinoceroses.
In the afternoon I rode up the edge of the river with

272 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

Ruyter in quest of reitbuck, of which I saw several
small troops, but did not kill any, not getting a chance
of the old bucks, which I hunted for their heads. I,
however, shot one enormous crocodile, which we dis-
covered fast asleep on the grassy bank of the river.
He got two balls, one in the brains and the other be-
hind the shoulder; yet, nevertheless, in the struggles
of death he managed to roll into the water and disap-
peared. I was extremely surprised to see so enormous
a crocodile in so small a stream; his length was con-
siderably greater than the width of the river at the spot
where I shot him.

Marched again at sunrise, and I and Ruyter rode
ahead to seek reitbuck. I detected one of these squat-
ting beside the river to shun observation, and shot him
dead on the spot. He proved to be an old buck ; but
both of his horns being broken in fighting, I did not
keep the head. A little after this, two packs of wild
dogs kept trotting and cantering slowly along before us,
one on either side of the river ; we had started them
from two pallahs, which they had caught and were con-
suming. More reitbuck were seen, and presently an
old buck, carrying unusually fine horns, started up be-
fore us in company with four does. By taking up a
position in a hollow in the vley, and sending Ruyter to
drive them toward me, I had the satisfaction to succeed
in bowling over this fine old buck, which proved to be
a princely specimen. 1 shot him running, and broke
his back.

The wagons being opposite to us, we crossed the
river, and deposited the head on my cardell ; and, hav-
ing proceeded a short distance further up, we discover-
ed the fresh spoor of an immense herd of elephants, con-
sisting mostly of old bulls. I drew up my wagons on

A HUGE CROCODILE SHOT. 273

a peninsular, well-wooded spot, and proceeded to take up
the spoor. These elephants had at first fed for many-
hours among thorns in the vicinity of the river, and then
marched in a long string right away out of the coun-
try. After following the spoor for a great many miles,
P became annoyed and gave it up.

On the 31st, as I was riding along the river's bank,
about two miles below the spot where some days be-
fore I had fired at a large crocodile, I came upon a
similar reptile lying asleep on the opposite side, which
I shot dead on the spot, putting the ball through the
spine close into the back of the head. On receiving the
ball, he only made a slight convulsive movement, and
then remained still and motionless as if still asleep, not
having in the slightest degree altered his position : a
copious stream of blood issued from the wound, and
colored the shallow water in which he lay. Having
crossed the river at a drift about a mile below, I rodo
up to inspect this hideous monster of the river, which,
to my surprise, I found to be the same one at which j
on the 28th, I had fired, and, as I supposed, killed.
He bore the marks of both my bullets, one of which had
fractured a part of his skull. The crocodile was a very
old fellow, and a fine specimen, its length being up-
ward of twelve feet. I resolved, therefore, to preserve
the skin, and with this intention, in the forenoon, march-
ed down six men, who were occupied until sundown in
the novel work of flaying the crocodile. When, how-
ever, they had accomplished their undertaking, I made
up my mind that we should not be able to preserve
the entire skin, and determined only to keep the head,
which we brought to camp. The night set in with a
heavy storm of wind, accompanied with rain. Return-
ing from skinning the crocodile to camp, I found the

AT 2

274 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

vley before me black with an immense herd of buffa-
loes, two of which I wounded, but did not follow.

A few days after this, just as Swint had milked the
cows, and was driving them from the wooded peninsula
in which we lay, athwart the open ground, to graze
with my other cattle in the forest beyond, he beheld
four majestic lions walk slowly across the vley, a few
hundred yards below my camp, and disappear over the
river's bank at a favorite drinking-place. These mighty
monarchs of the waste had been holding a prolonged
repast over the carcasses of some zebras killed by Pres-
ent, and had now come down to the river to slake their
thirst. This being reported, I instantly saddled up two
horses, and, directing my boys to lead after me as quick-
ly as possible my small remaining pack of sore-footed
dogs, I rode forth, accompanied by Carey carrying a
spare gun, to give battle to the four grim lions. As I
rode out of the peninsula, they showed themselves on
the bank of the river, and, guessing that their first
move would be a disgraceful retreat, I determined to
ride so as to make them think that I had not observed
them, until I should be able to cut off their retreat from
the river, across the open vley, to the endless forest be-
yond. That point being gained, I knew that they, still
doubtful of my having observed them, would hold their
ground on ihe river's bank until my dogs came up,
when I could more advantageously make the attack.

I cantered along, holding as if I meant to pass the
lions at a distance of a quarter of a mile, until I was
opposite to them, when I altered my course, and inclin-
ed a little nearer. The lions then showed symptoms
of uneasiness : they rose to their feet, and, overhauling
us for half a minute, disappeared over the bank. They
reappeared, however, directly, a little further down ;

A DRILL,IANT LION HUNT. 275

and, finding that their present position was bare, they
walked majestically along the top of the bank to a
spot a few hundred yards lower, where the bank was
well wooded. Here they seemed half inclined to await
my attack ; two stretched out their massive arms, and
lay down in the grass, and the other two sat up like
dogs upon their haunche^s. Deeming it probable that
when my dogs came up and I approached they would
still retreat and make a bolt across the open vley, I di-
rected Carey to canter forward and take up the ground
in the center of the vley about four hundred yards in
advance, whereby the lions would be compelled either
to give us battle or swim the river, which, although
narrow, I knew they would be very reluctant to do.

I now sat in my saddle, anxiously awaiting the ar-
rival of the dogs, and, while thus momentarily disen-
gaged, was much struck with the majestic and truly
appalling appearance which these four lions exhibited
They were all full-grown, immense males; and I felt,
I must confess, a little nervous, and very uncertain as
to what might be the issue of the attack. When the
dogs came up I rode right in toward the lions. They
sprang to their feet and trotted slowly down along the
bank of the river, once or twice halting and facing
about for half a minute. Immediately below them
there was a small determined bend in the stream, form-
ing a sort of peninsula. Into this bend they disappear-
ed, and next moment I was upon them with my dogs.
They had taken shelter in a dense angle of the penin-
sula, well sheltered by high trees and reeds. Into this
retreat the dogs at once boldly followed them, making
a .'oud barking, which was instantly followed by the
terrible voices of the lions, which turned about and
charged to the edge of the cover. Next moment, how-

276 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

ever, I heard them plunge into the river, when I sprang
from my horse, and, running to the top of the bank,
saw three of them ascending the opposite bank, the
dogs following. One of them bounded away across the
open plain at top speed ; but the other two, finding
themselves followed by the dogs, immediately turned
to bay. It was now my turn.; so, taking them coolly
right and left with my little rifle, I made the most glo-
rious double shot that a sportsman's heart could desire,
disabling them both in the shoukler before they were
even aware of my position. Then snatching my other
gun from Carey, who that moment had ridden up to
my assistance, I finished the first lion with a shot about
the heart, and brought the second to a standstill by dis-
abling him in his hind quarters. He quickly crept into
a dense, wide, dark green bush, in which for a long
time it was impossible to obtain a glimpse of him. At
length a clod of earth falling near his hiding-place, he
made a move which disclosed to me his position, when
I finished him with three more shots, all along the mid-
dle of his back. Carey swam across the river to flog
off the dogs ; and when these came through to me, I
beat up the peninsula in quest of the fourth lion, which
had, however, made off. We then crossed the river a
little higher up, and proceeded to inspect the noble prizes
I had won. Both lions were well up in their years ;
I kept the skin and skull of the finest specimen, and
only the nails and tail of the other, one of whose canine
teeth was worn down to the socket with caries, which
seemed very much to have affected his general condi-
tion.

On the 9th it rained unceasingly throughout the day,
converting the rich soil on which we were encamped
into one mass of soft, sticky clay. In the forenoon,

RHINOCEROS HUMTING. 277

fearing the rain would continue so as to render the vley
(through which we must pass to gain the firmer ground)
impassable, I ordered my men to prepare to mai'ch, and
leave the tent with its contents standing, the point
which I wished to gain being distant only about five
hundred yards. When the oxen were inspanned, how-
ever, and we attempted to move, we found my tackle,
which was old, so rotten from the effects of the rain,
that something gave way at every strain. Owing to
this and to the softness of the vley, we labored on till
sundown, and only succeeded in bringing one wagon
to its destination, the other two remaining fast in the
mud in the middle of the vley. Next morning, luckily,
the weather cleared up, when my men brought over the
tent, and in the afternoon the other two wagons.

We followed up the banks of the river for several
days with the usual allowance of sport. On the 16th
we came suddenly upon an immense old bull mucho-
cho roiling in mud. He sprang to his feet immediately
he saw me, and, charging up the bank, so frightened
our horses, that before I could get my rifle from my
after-rider he was past us. I then gave him chase,
and, after a hard gallop of about a mile, sprang from
my horse and gave him a good shot behind the shoul-
der. At this moment a cow rhinoceros of the same
species, with her calf, charged out of some wait-a-bit
thorn cover, and stood right in my path. Observing
that she carried an unusually long horn, I turned my
attention from the bull to her, and, after a very long
and severe chase, dropped her at the sixth shot. I car-
ried one of my rifles, which gave me much trouble,
that not being the tool required for this sort of work,
where quick loading is Indispensable.

After breakfast I sent men to cut off the iiead of thia

278 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

rhinoceros, and proceeded with Ruyter to take up the
spoor of the bull wounded in the morning. We found
that he was very severely hit, and, having followed the
spoor for about a mile through very dense thorn cover,
he suddenly rustled out of the bushes close ahead of us,
accompanied by a whole host of rhinoceros birds. I
mounted my horse and gave him chase, and in a few
minutes he had received four severe shots. I managed
to turn his course toward camp, when I ceased firing,
as he seemed to be nearly done up, and Ruyter and I
rode slowly behind him, occasionally shouting to guide
his course. Presently, however, Chukuroo ceased tak-
ing any notice of us, and held leisurely on for the river,
into a shallow part of which he walked, and after pant-
ing there and turning about for a quarter of an hour,
he fell over and expired. This was a remarkably fine
old bull, and from his dentition it was not improbable
that a hundred summers had seen him roaming a peace-
ful denizen of the forests and open glades along the fair
banks of the secluded Mariqua.

During our march on the 19th we had to cross a
range of very rocky hills, covered with large loose
stones, and all hands were required to be actively cm-
ployed for about an hour in clearing them out of the
way to permit the wagons to pass. The work went on
fast and furious, and the quantity of stones cleared was
immense. At length we reached the spot where we
were obliged to bid adieu to the Mariqua, and hold a
westerly course across the country for Sichely. At
sundown we halted under a lofty mountain, the high-
est in the district, called " Lynche a Cheny," or the
Monkey's Mountain.

I>|p.xt day, at an early hour, I rode out with RuytcT
to hunt, my camp being entirely without flesh, and we

SUBLIME SCENERY. 279

having been rationed upon very tough old rliinoceros for
several days past. It was a cloudy morning, and soon
after starting it came on to rain heavily. I, however,
held on, skirting a fine, well- wooded range of mount-
ains, and after riding several miles I shot a zebra.
Having covered the carcass well over with branches to
protect it from the vultures, I returned to camp, and,
inspanning ray wagons, took it up on the march. "We
continued trekking on until sundown, when we started
an immense herd of buffaloes, into which I stalked and
shot a huge old bull.

Our march this evening was through the most beau-
tiful country I had ever seen in Africa. We skirted
along an endless range of well- wooded stony mountains
lying on our left, while to our right the country at first
sloped gently off, and then stretched away into a level
green forest (occasionally interspersed with open glades),
boundless as the ocean. This green forest was, how-
ever, relieved in one direction by a chain of excessively
bold, detached, well-wooded, rocky, pyramidal mount-
ains, which stood forth in grand relief. In advance the
picture was bounded by forest and mountain ; one bold
acclivity, in shape of a dome, standing prominent among
its fellows. It was a lovely evening : the sky, over-
cast and gloomy, threw an interesting, wild, mysterious
coloring over the landscape. I gazed forth upon the
romantic scene before me with intense delight, and
felt melancholy and sorrowful at passing so fleetingly
through it, and could not help shouting out as I
marched along, " Where is the coward who would not
dare to die for such a land ?"

In the morning we held for a fountain some miles
ahead in a gorge in the mountains. As we approached
the fountain, and were passing close in under a steep

280 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

rocky hill side, well wooded to its summit, I unexpect-
edly beheld a lion stealing up the rocky face, and, halt-
ing behind a tree, he stood overhauling us for some
minutes. T resolved to give him battle, and, seizing
my rifle, marched against him, followed by Carey car-
rying a spare gun, and by three men leading my dogs,
now reduced to eight. When we got close in to the
base of the mountain, we found ourselves enveloped in
dense jungle, which extended half way to its summit,
and entirely obscured from our eyes objects which were
quite apparent from the wagons. I slipped my dogs,
however, which, after snuffing about, took right up the
steep face on the spoor of the lions, for there was a
troop of them — a lion and three lionesses.

The people at the wagons saw the chase in perfec-
tion. When the lions observed the dogs coming on,
they took right up, and three of them crossed over the
sky ridge. The dogs, however, turned one rattling old
lioness, which came rumbling down through the cover,
close past me. I ran to meet her, and she came to bay
in an open spot near the base of the mountain, whither
I quickly followed, and, coming up within thirty yards,
bowled her over with my first shot, which broke her
back. My second entered her shoulder; and fearing
that she might hurt any of the dogs, as she still evinced
signs of life, I finished her with a third in the breast.
The bellies of all the four lions were much distended
by some game they had been gorging, no doubt a buf-
falo, as a large herd started out of the jungle immedi-
ately under the spot where the noble beasts were first
disturbed.

Showers of rain fell every hour throughout the 24th,
so I employed my men in making feldt-.>5choens, or, in
other words, African brogues for me. These ?>o«»

SASSAYBIES AND BUFFALOES. 281

were worthy of a sportsman, being light, yet strong,
and were entirely composed of the skins of game of my
shooting. The soles were made of either buffalo or
camelopard ; the front part perhaps of koodoo, or harte-
beest, or bushbuck, and the back of the shoe of lion, or
hysena, or sable antelope, while the rheimpy or thread
with which the whole was sewed consisted of a thin
strip of the skin of a steinbok.

On the forenoon of the 26th I rode forth to hunt, ac-
companied by Ruyter ; we held west, skirting the
wooded stony mountains. The natives had here many
years before waged successful war with elephants, four
of whose skulls I found. Presently I came across two
sassaybies, one of which I knocked over ; but while 1
was loading he regained his legs and made off. We
crossed a level stretch of forest, holding a northerly
course for an opposite range of green, well- wooded hills
and valleys. Here I came upon a troop of six fine old
bull buffaloes, into which I stalked, and wounded one
princely fellow very severely behind the shoulder, bring-
ing blood from his mouth ; he, however, made off with
his comrades, and, the ground being very rough, we
failed to overtake him. They held for the Ngotwani.
After following the spoor for a couple of miles, we
dropped it, as it led right away from camp.

Returning from this chase, we had an adventure
with another old bull buffalo, which shows the extreme
danger of hunting buffaloes without dogs. We started
him in a green hollow among the hills, and, his course
inclining for camp, I gave him chase. He crossed the
level broad strath and made for the opposite densely-
wooded range of mountains. Along the base of these
we followed him, sometimes in view, sometimes on tho
epoor, keeping the old fellow at a pace which made him

282 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA

pant. At length, finding himself much distressed, \ip>
had recourse to a singular stratagem. Doubling round
some thick bushes which obscured him from our view,
he found himself beside a small pool of rain water, just
deep enough to cover his body ; into this he walked,
and, facing about, lay gently down and awaited our on-
coming, with nothing but his old gray face and massive
horns above the water, and these concealed from view
by rank overhanging herbage.

Our attention was entirely engrossed with the spoor,
and thus we rode boldly on until within a few feet of
him, when, springing to his feet, he made a desperate
charge after Ruyter, uttering a low, stifled roar pecul-
iar to buffaloes (somewhat similar to the growl of a
lion), and hurled horse and rider to the earth with fear-
ful violence. His horn laid the poor horse's haunch
open to the bone, making the most fearful rugged
wound. In an instant Ruyter regained his feet and
ran for his life, which the buffalo observing, gave chase,
but most fortunately came down with a tremendous
somersault in the mud, his feet slipping from under
him : thus the Bushman escaped certain destruction.
The buffalo rose much discomfited, and, the wounded
horse first catching his eye, he went a second time after
him, but he got out of the way. At this moment I
managed to send one of my patent pacificating pills
into his shoulder, when he instantly quitted the field of
action, and sought shelter in the dense cover on the
mountain side, whither I deemed it imprudent to fol-
low him.

On the 28th we marched at sunrise, when one of my
wagon-drivers chose to turn his wagon too short, in op-
position to my orders, whereby it was very nearly up-
set, for which I flogged him with a jambok, and then

CAMELOPARD CHASE. 283

knocked him down. This man's name was Adonis :
he was a determined old sinner, on whom words had
no effect. Our course lay through a wide, well-wooded
strath, beautifully varied with open glades. As we
proceeded, fresh spoor of buffalo and caraelopard be-
came abundant, and about breakfast-time, as we were
crossing an elevated slope in the vicinity of the Ngot-
wani, I had the felicity to detect a magnificent herd of
the latter browsing in the middle of the strath about
half a mile to our left.

As I had enjoyed very little sport with camelopard
either in this or the last expedition, my time and at-
tention having always been engrossed with elephants,
I resolved to avail myself of this opportunity, and ac-
cordingly, having caught a couple of my mares, I rode
for them, accompanied by Booi as after-rider. I had
directed my men to outspan, and my intention was, if
possible, to hunt one of the camelopards to my camp ;
but in this I failed. On disturbing the herd they sep-
arated into two divisions, one of which took right away
down the wind, being a tail-on-end chase from my camp ;
the finest bull went with this division, and him I fol-
lowed. After a sharp burst of about a mile, I headed
and laid him low with two shots behind the shoulder.
Having cut otT his tail, we were returning to camp, and
had proceeded about halfway, when we came upon the
other division of the herd. They were browsing quietly
in company with a large herd of zebras ; and observ-
ing among them another princely old bull, nothing short
of the one I had already icilled, I was tempted once more
to give chase, and, directing Booi to go home with the
tail. I spurred my little mare, and dashed after the
jdfiy giraffe. In vain he sought the thickest depths of
cover which the strath afforded, and put out the very

284 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

utmost speed which he could muster. I followed c'.bse
in his wake, and, after a hard chase of about a mile
over very rough ground, we gained a piece of hard lev-
el. Here I pressed my mare, and, getting close in un-
der his stern, fired at the gallop, and sent a bullet into
him, and then passed ; in doing which I tried to fire a
second shot, but my gun snapped. I had now headed
the camelopard, so he altered his course and held away
at a right angle across the level strath. A fresh cap
was soon placed upon the nipple, when, pressing nry
mare, I once more rode past him. In passing, I held
my stock in my waist and fired : the ball entered be-
hind the shoulder, and ended the career of this gigantic
and exquisitely beautiful habitant of the forest. Hav-
ing run a few yards further, his lofty frame tottered for
a moment, when he came down with a crash which
made the earth tremble.

On the 4th of December we inspanned at sunrise and
marched to the Ngotwani, which we crossed after an
hour of hard work in making a road, having to remove
some immense masses of rock, to cut down the banks
with spades, and to throw some thorn-trees. In the
afternoon I again marched, and halted at sundown with-
in a few miles of my old spoor near the Poort or Pass
of God. As the wagons were drawing up for the night
a borele was detected, which Present and Carey stalk-
ed, and got within thirty yards, and then both fired and
returned, stating that they had broken his shoulder.

Accordingly, on the following morning, I proceeded
to take up the spoor of the wounded borele of the pre-
ceding evening, accompanied by Ruyter, and very soon
found that he was very little the worse for his wound.
The spoor led me for several miles close along under
the mountain range to my right, and at length up into

LION HUNTING. 285

a long, well-wooded basin in the mountains. I observed
that two lions, having detected the blood, were spoor-
ing up the borele ; they had followed him up and driv-
en him away from his lair, and had then lain down for
the day.

When 1 came up I was within twenty yards of the
lions before I was aware of their proximity. Observ-
ing me, they sprang to their feet, and, growling sulk-
ily, trotted up the mountain side. I only saw one of
them at first, and ran forward for a shot. Having as-
cended the steep a short distance, the lion halted to have
a look, giving me a fine broadside, when I shot him
through the heart. On receiving the ball he bounded
forward, and was instantly obscured by the trees. I
advanced cautiously, and next moment the other lion
sprang up with a growl, and marched with an air of
most consummate independence up the mountain side.
I imagined that this lion was the one I had fired at,
and sent two more shots at him, both of which were
too high ; after which he disappeared over a ridge im-
mediately above. On proceeding to inspect the spot
where the lion had been lying, I found that there were
two beds, consequently that there must have been two
lions, and I conjectured that I had killed one of them.
In case, however, he should be only wounded, I deemed
it prudent to ride down to the wagons, which were then
passing below me, to obtain some dogs to pioneer. Hav-
ing procured these, I and Ruyter returned to the spot,
and found the lion lying dead on the mountain side.
We proceeded to skin him, and returned to the wag-
ons with the spoils. The other decamped ; the dogs
could not find him. Both of ihese were first-rate old
lions, but the one that escaped was the larger of the
two. In the afternoon I rode on to Sichelv';^ kraal on

286 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

the Kouloubeng, having directed my men to follow with
the wagons.

On arriving at the station, I found that Mr. Living-
stone had left that morning to visit a tribe to the east
uf the Limpopo. I waited upon Mrs. Livingstone,
who regaled with me with tea and bread and butter,
and gave me all the news. I remained a week in the
station, and on the 12th I inspanned. At sundown we
halted near the Pass of God, intending to hunt sable
antelope, having seen a small troop of them in the
month of May on a steep mountain side, beneath which
T formed my camp.

CHAPTER XXXm.

The Pass of God — Hunt Sable and Roan Antelope — Sesetabie — My
Cattle-losses in five Expeditious — My Cattle desperate for want of
Water — Trading with Mahura — Inspauning young Oxen — We cross
the Vaal River — The Country densely covered with Game — An Os-
trich's Nest — Bloem Vonteyn — Multitudes of Antelope Skeletons
cover the Plains — The Great Orange River — We are detained by the
Flood — Twenty-three Men drowned in attempting to cross — We have
to take the Wagons to Pieces — Determine to revisit Old England
and transport my Collection of Trophies thither.

Next morning I rode through the Pass of God and
held west, accompanied by two after-riders. I rode to
within a couple of miles of the Kouloubeng, and return.
ed close in under the mountain chain to the south of the
pass. I went forth on foot, accompanied by Ruyter,
and ascended the mountain immediately above my
camp to seek for sable antelope. I had the satisfac-
tion to discover the spoor of three bucks on a piece of
rocky table-ground on the highest summit of the range,

A SPLENDID SABLE ANTELOPE SHOT. 287

and soon after I started a princely old buck from his
lair. He was lying in long grass in a sandy spot be-
hind a bush, within eishty yards of me. Startinij from
his mountain bed, this gem of beauty rattled up a rocky
slope beside which he had been lying, and, halting for
a moment, looked back to see what had disturbed him,
when I sent a bullet through his ribs, and, as ho dis-
appeared over the ridge, lodged another in his vitals.
Having loaded, I followed on the spoor, and soon ob-
served him within a hundred and fifty yards of me,
standing in a green hollow far below, whisking his tail,
and evidently severely wounded. A strong breeze which
was then blowing was against me, as it shook a young
tree of which I wished to avail myself for a rest. I
nevertheless managed to make a fine shot, and sent a
bullet through the center of his shoulder, bringing him
down on his face, and laming him. The potaquaine
disappeared down the wooded mountain side over a
rocky ridge, but no rude fears agitated my breast ; I
had lamed him, and that was enough: if stalking should
fail, there were dogs at my wagons that could very soon
bring him to bay. I did not, however, wish to be put
to the trouble of sending for the dogs, and continued to
follow on his spoor with extreme caution. He had only
gone a short distance down the hill when I found him
without his seeing me, and, after a successful stalk, I
finished him with three more shots, two of which were
in his stern. This was a most splendid specimen of
this very rare and most lovely antelope ; his horns were
enormous, very long, rough, and perfect. Having cut
off the head for stuffing, and gralloched him, we cov.-
cred him with many green boughs and returned to camp,
whence I dispatcluid a party for the venison and tha
Bkm, which I preserved.

288 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

On the 15th I was occupied during the morning in
stuffing the head of the sable antelope, after which 1
rode forth with two after-riders, and, holding a north-
erly course, skirted the range of hills beneath which we
were encamped. I soon reached a gorge in the hills,
through which I rode, and at its upper extremity dis-
covered springs of water forming a little stream. In a
basin in the hill side opposite this little stream I ob-
served a rattling old buck roan antelope or bastard
gemsbok standing under the shade of some young trees,
the sun being extremely powerful. I first endeavored
to stalk in upon him, but, finding that the ground would
not admit of that, I laid a plot for him. Guessing from
the lay of the land what course he was most likely to
take, I instructed Ruyter to give me about twenty
minutes to steal forward, and then to endeavor to move
him toward me. Before, however, I could gain the point
I wished, an eddy in the breeze apprised the roan an-
telope of my proximity, when he instantly started to
pass a shoulder of the mountain opposite which I al-
ready was. As I was screened by some thorn-trees,
I made a run to save the day. When the buck halted,
I likewise halted; and when he ran, I also ran ; thus,
when he halted the second time, and looked down to
see what had disturbed him, I had got within two hund-
red yards, and was standing in position, with my rifle
steady on a branch of a thorn-tree. Giving it six inch-
es of elevation, I fired, and the bullet caught him in
the center of the hollow behind the shoulder, and rest-
ed in the hide on his opposite side. Arching his back
and bounding high, the rock-loving old roan antelope
started forward, and was instantly concealed from my
view by an abrupt rocky ridge. Having loaded, I in-
spected the spoor. Large blotches of his life-blood

ROAN ANTELOPE AND OTHER GAME. 289

stained'the rocks, and, on, clearing the ridge over which
he had disappeared, I had the pleasure 1o find "Quala-
la" stretched to rise no more. This antelope carried
the finest head I had ever seen ; the horns were very
long, fair set, immensely stout, and rough. I cut off
the head for stuffing, and rode back to camp, where I
found a trader named Jolly, with his wagon, who wished
to travel along with me to the colony, being in fear of
the rebel Boers.

Having heard from Mr. Livingstone that sable ante-
lopes frequented the rocky mountains about the sources
of the Kouloubeng, I resolved to march thither. Early
on the 18th we inspanned, and in about four hours en-
camped on the Kouloubeng, at a spot where, three years
before, Mr. Livingstone had made a garden to cultivate
wheat, which having sown, he left to the birds, having
aever returned to see how it had thriven.

In the morning I rode forth with the Bushman, and,
holding a southwesterly course, examined the mountain
ranges and several fine straths in that direction. At
length I started a small troop of zebras, and soon after
T observed a fine old buck roan antelope, which got my
wind. Returning from following this buck, I shot a
steinbok ; this shot at the steinbok started a troop of
seven or eight old bull buffaloes, which Ruyter had
found, from the summit of a rocky hillock. I followed,
when the invariable rhinoceros birds started them, and
I galloped on in their wake.

Presently they halted to look behind them, and I at
the same instant sprang from my mare and lay down
in the grass. My mare commenced eating the grass
and whisking her tail, which the buffaloes observing,
and fancying that she was some species of game, made
op their minds that it was all right, and, coming for-
Vol. II— N

290 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA,

ward a few steps, toolc up a position under a wide shady
tree, not evincing any further signs *of fear. Thus I
was enabled to take my time and select the finest head
in the troop. After about twenty minutes spent in
studying the set of the heads. I shot one princely old
bull, when they all made off. Following on their spoor
for a short distance, I found my bull lying dying be-
neath a thorn-tree, and his comrades standing near him.
As ths old bull died, he roared loudly, as buffaloes are
wont to do. His comrades came forward and walked
round him, smelling the blood, when I wounded two
more, and a little after a third, which the natives dis-
covered on the following day. On returning to camp
I dispatched men for the head of the buffalo and a sup-
ply of meat.

Next day, while exploring a fine mountainous tract
of country to the southwest, I suddenly found myself
in my old wagon-spoor of '45, within a short distance
of the bold gorge in the mountains in which my oxen
had been chased by lions. In this fine pass two streams
of water meet : it is a first-rate district for game when
the country has not been ransacked by Griqua hunt-
ers. I immediately found the spoor of a troop of buf-
faloes : it led me into a rich, green, and well-wooded
glen in the hills, through which one of the afore-men-
tioned streams flowed. The wind was as foul as it could
blow, and this troop got my wind. Returning from
spooring them, however, I very soon fell in with anoth-
er troop, reposing under dense shade in the same glen.
I crept in within thirty yards of them, and there lay
for upward of an hour, endeavoring to select the finest
head. The buffalo which I wanted was lying down,
his body screened by stout thorn branches. I miglit
easily have shot any of the others through the heart if

BUFFALO HUNTING. 291

I had wished to do so. One by one thev rose, stretch-
ed themselves, rubbed their horns upon the trees, and
again lay do\yn. At length something, which I could
not guess, alarmed them, when the bufTalo I wanted
sprang to his feet, affording me a certain shot, but my
cap disappointed me. I then had a snap shot through
the cover with my left barrel, and sent a bullet through
his heart.

The herd took to the hills, and, by an extraordinary
chance, I again fell in with them, while galloping along,
half way to my camp. Dismounting, I ran in after
them, and commanding their attention by a shrill whis-
tle, the herd halted and faced half about, when I drop-
ped a fine old cow with a single ball. On returning to
camp r found a party of Baquaines, among whom was
a brother of Sichely's. These men informed me that
the Boers had been making many inquiries concerning
me, and that they had stated that it was their intention
to come in force on horseback and take me prisoner.
The Bftchuanafe., however, further stated that all the
horses o*' tlie Boers were dead with the distemper. An
attack from them being, however, by no means improb-
able, I deemed it prudent to hold myself in a certain
degree prepared, and resolved, in the event of Mr. Ed-
wards, the missionary at Bakatla, thinking the road by
the Mamouri unsafe, to hold a more westerly course, and
go out by the country of the Bawangketse. Another
valuable black shooting-mare died of the fell distemper.

My losses in cattle this year were very considerable.
Up to this time fourteen horses and fifteen head of cat-
tle had died, making my losses in all four expeditions
mto the far interior amount to forty-five horses and
seventy head of nattle, the value of these being at least
£600. I also lost about seventy of my dog,<».

292 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

We continued our .march for several days throu-gh a
country abounding in different kinds of game, affording
good sport; and on the 1st of January, 1849, 1 rode into
Bakatla, where I found Mr. Edwards and his family
flourishing. The news was, that the Boers had met
the governor and the- troops, &c., at a place called
Boom Plaats, on the north side of the Orange River,
and, after a bloody engagement of three hours, they
had been defeated. Mr. Edwards stated that since
this engagement thb Boers had been flocking in about
Mosega in great numbers, and that they were anxious
to get possession of my wagons. He therefore advised
me strongly not to proceed by ray old line of march,
but to get out of the country with all speed, taking the
direct road across the mountain at the back of Bakatla.
My prospects of doing this, however, were not height-
ened by an attack in the morning of fever, brought on
by over-exertion and anxiety of mind.

On the 3d we marched at dawn, and after proceed-
ing for many miles without finding water at the differ-
ent spots where v/e were led to expect it, we bad the
pleasing prospect before us rif not seeing any un„ij ^^'^
following day, when we might reach the Molopo. The
sun's heat was most terrific, and my poor dogs were
already on the verge of going mad; a number of my
cattle were lame from hoof-sickness, and I myself was
laid up with a rattling fever. In this state of things I
halted the wagons, and dispatched parties in different
directions with spades to seek for water. To my great
relief. Jolly rode up, and said that half a mile in ad-
vance there were several sheltered holes, containing
sufficient rain water for all the cattle ; thither we ac-
cordingly moved with all speed. An attack from the
B^ers being not at all improbable, I ordered all mj

VISIT FROM MAHURA. 293

guns and rifles to be cleaned and loaded, and ammuni-
tion to be placed in readiness for action. I had also
four good muskets cleaned and loaded, which in all
gave me twenty shots at the first round ; these, if well
directed, in the open country, I calculated would keep
off a whole host of Boers.

I pushed on 'the wagons as rapidly as I could, con-
sidering that the country was almost destitute of water,
my cattle consequently being in a desperate condition;
and in the afternoon of the 13th I reached the Hart
River, where I outspanned within a quarter of a mile
of the town or kraal of the Batlapis. The river was
greatly swollen and quite impassable, the rain having
been very heavy in certain parts of the country. Short-
ly after we arrived old Mahura, with a party, made his
appearance, and came down to greet me across the
river, and beg for some coffee.

In the morning, by Mahura's request, I inspanned and
crossed the Hart stream, and encamped on its southern
bank. In the course of the day I obtained ten karosses
in barter from the tribe, and one very good spotted cat
as a present from the chief. I also obtained a large
sack of Kaffir corn in barter for beads, and milk was
pressed upon us to any amount. A few fine oxen were
offered for barter, but I did not require them, preferring
to purchase karosses. Mahura favored me with a visit
morning and evening, remaining at the wagons about
three hours on each occasion, drinking coffee to an im-
mense extent, and pestering me with requests for vari-
ous articles of which he stood in need.

On the 16th I deemed it high time to be getting
umler way, being quite sick of the presence of Mahura
and his retinue, who came down to my wagons, and re-
mained there for the greater part of the day, merely

294 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

to eat and drink and pester me, not bringing any art),
cles of any value for barter, and asking absurdly high
prices. Accordingly, at an early hour, I ordered my
men to count my cattle and inspan, and in about an
hour we were on the move. Old Mahura was coming
down to drink coffee, and met us as we were going past
tlie town. He was evidently vexed at my sudden de-
parture. I presented him with some coffee, sugar, and
other articles equivalent in value to the kaross which
he had given me, and took leave of him. In the after-
noon we marched about six or seven miles nearer to
the Vaal, and halted in the hollow where nearly ten
months before I had coursed an old blue wildebeest
with dogs.

Considerable delay was caused next day along the
line of march by young oxen, which could not be per-
suaded to trek, although flogged until their sides and
flanks were red with gore. About four hours after tho
sun rose we reached the fount beside a few acres of
bush, where we outspanned. Our march was across
boundless open country. We saw a good deal of game,
blue and black wildebeest, blesbok, springbok, and a
fine troop of about thirty hartebeests. In the after-
noon I again marched, and at nightfall we encamped
on the bank of the fair Vaal River. It was consider-
ably swollen, heavy rains having lately fallen ; but, be-
ing upon th6 ebb, I deemed it well not to take the drift
until the morrow, when, having arranged two trek-
tows, we commenced crossing the Vaal, one wagon at
a time, with twenty oxen, and in about two hours my
three heavily-laden wagons were brought through in
safety.

After two or three days' march we came in sight of
several Boer encampments on both sides of the Vet

BOER ENCAMPMENTS. 295

River. Four Boers paid me a visit and drank coffee
with me. I questioned them concerning the recent en-
gagement between the rebels and the English. They
said that nearly all the latter had fallen on that occasion
and only six Boers, and told us many other equally
extravagant tales. It was, however, very clear, from
their remarks, that the Boers had received a lesson
which they would not soon forget of the utter vanity
of opposition to the English government.

On the 24th our morning's march brought us into
the district where in the commencement of last winter
I had seen such overwhelming swarms of blesboks :
Boers were encamped on the opposite side of the river.
I outspanned beside some shady thorn-trees ; lions' spoor
was seen on the line of march. In the afternoon I lost
my march, being obliged to halt soon after I inspanned
to correct a bush of the iron axle-tree wagon, which
was loose.

The 25th was a cloudy morning, with a cool breeze.
Our morning's march brought us to a forsaken Boer
encampment, around which lay the remains of the dif-
ferent varieties of game frequenting the district. We
halted for breakfast beside several acres of thorn-cover
on the bank of the river.

As we were breakfasting on the 24th by the banks
of the river, a trader from the Pari (a district near
Cape Town), of French extraction, passed us with his
two wagons laden with merchandise. He took a cup
of tea with me and gave me the news of the colony.
Observing the skull of an old bull buffalo fastened on
one of my traps, he asked me if it was the head of an
elephant. Another Boer had asked me a few days
since if a crocodile's heal, which was tied up at the
back of Carollus's wagon, belonged to an elephant. In

296 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA..

the afternoon, as we were inspanning, we were visited
by a rebel Boer of very large proportions. This man
told us plainly that the Boers did not consider them-
selves as conquered, and that they intended to try it
once again.

We had now reached that point in our line of march
where we were to take leave of the Vet River. I rode
ahead of the wagons to hunt, and after proceeding
about a mile, found myself out of the country of sweet
grass, and entering upon bare and boundless open plains,
thinly clad with sour pasturage, the favorite haunt and
continual residence of innumerable herds of black wilde-
beest, blesbok, and springbok. As I rode on, large
troops of these excellent, sport-yielding antelopes grati-
fied my eyes in every direction. I had been long away
from them, far, far in the dense forest regions of the far
interior, and now I gazed once more upon them with a
lively feeling of pleasure and intense interest which no
words can describe.

When the sun rose next morning I took coffee, and
then rode west with two after-riders, in the hope of
getting some blesbok shooting. I found the boundless
undulating plains thickly covered with game, thousands
upon thousands checkering the landscape far as the eye
could strain in every direction. The blesboks, which I
was most desirous to obtain, were extremely wary, and
kept pouring on, on, up the wind, in long-continued
streams of thousands, so swift and shy that it was im
possible to get within six hundred yards of them, oi
even by any stratagem to waylay them, so boundless
was the ground, and so cunningly did they avoid cross-
ing our track.

I returned to camp, having bagged one springbok doe
and one old bull wildebeest, which was in superb con-

Vast herds op game. 297

dition. Jolly and some of my people had been out, but
without success.

On the 28th I rode in a northwesterly course, and
gave chase to a noble herd of about two hundred black
wildebeest. These being very wild, I yached them on
the Boer principle, and, taking a double family shot at
about three hundred yards, when the dust had blown
past one fine bull was found to have bitten the dust :
this was very near camp, so I dispatched Ruyter for
men and a pack-ox to bring the gnoo to camp. I held
on in a westerly course, and found the game extreme-
ly shy, owing to the high winds.

In the afternoon I inspanned and marched, there be-
ing very little grass here for my cattle, and danger of
the oxen taking a horrible and very fatal illness, called
by the Boers " snot sickness," which cattle are very
liable to from pasturing on ground frequented by black
wildebeests. The sky to the north and west looked
very threatening, and, before we had proceeded far,
black masses of clouds came rolling up toward us, and
vivid flashes of forked lightning, accompanied by ap-
palling peals of thunder, proclaimed the approach of a
storm. In a few minutes it was upon us, the rain fall-
ing in torrents. We held for a rocky coppice or hill,
beside which we outspanned, and in about an hour the
storm had passed away : vast herds of game surround-
ed us on every side.

Next day we marched, the country being very heavy
for the bullocks, owing to the rain which had fallen. I
held across the country for a range of stony hills, dotted
over with dwarfish trees and bushes, on which I ex-
pected to find sweet grass for my cattle. On my way
thither the plains on every side of us presented the
most lively display of game, and I was tempted by the
N2

298 ADVEiNTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

endless streams of blesboks to halt my wagons for a
minute to catch and saddle steeds and give them chase
They proved extremely shy, and in about four hours 1
rode to seek my wagons, having bagged a gnoo and a
brace of blesboks.

While following the game, one of my after-riders
started an ostrich from her nest, which she had scooped
in the sand : it was about seven feet in diameter, and
contained thirty-four fine fresh eggs. I left Ruyter iu
charge of the nest, the eggs being in danger from jack-
als and vultures, and particularly from the ostrich her-
self, who would return in our absence and break every
one of them. Having reached my camp, I dispatched
two men with leather sacks to fetch them.

Next morning I again rode forth to hunt on the
plains below my camp, and took up positions, lying on
my breast behind the ant-hills, while Booi and Ruyter
moved up the game toward me. I had some exciting
sport, the wildebeests several times coming charging
madly down upon the very spot where I lay concealed.
About mid-day I had bagged two old bulls, and found
one of the wounded of the day before : he was still
warm, and was in first-rate condition. Several thou-
sand blesboks came pouring up wind between me and
my camp as I was riding home : these had probably
been hunted up by some Boer or Boers to leeward. In
the evening I again rode out, and had the game moved
toward me, when I shot a fourth old bull wildebeest
for which 1 dispatched men with a pack-ox by moon-
light, having left Booi in charge of the venison.

On the 1st of February we marched, and reached
Bloem Vonteyn on the 3d, where I was kindly received
by the officers of the 45th and Cape Corps stationed
there. Here we remained a day or two, and then

CROSSING THE ORAtVGE RIVER. 299

trekked on through a most desolate country, on which,
together with vast herds of wildebeest, blesbok", and
springbok, we found numbers of skeletons scattered
over the plains on all sides. This great mortality had
been caused either by famine or by a horrid mangy
disease, called by the Dutch " brunt sickta," which
often sweeps off whole hosts of the plain-frequenting
game.

On the 17th we halted the wagons at Mr. Fossey's
farm, within two miles of the Great Orange River.
Mr. Fossey informed me that the river was full, and
that he did not expect it would be fordable for several
months. Nerval's Punt had been smashed when the
troops crossed over to fight the Boers at Boom Plaats
some months before, and the new one constructed in
the colony had not yet arrived. I was detained on the
banks of this stream, much against my will, for several
weeks ; but, at length, on the 8th of March, hearing
that the Boers had constructed a float above AUeman's
Drift, I inspanned and proceeded down the river to
view it. The float was rather a dangerous affair — I
mean for property — the stream being very rapid and
deep. It was calculated to ferry over light wagons,
but heavily-laden ones required to be off-loaded. At
sundown I had taken over one wagon and a span of
twelve oxen, which I ferried across in two trips, taking
six at a time.

Next morning when I awoke and looked to the river,
I found that it had grown greatly during the night, and
was still increasing rapidly. Having off-loaded the
greater part of the cargo of old Adonis's wagon, I
managed to ferry it across the river, having narrowly
escaped losing the whole in the middle of the stream.
"By this time the flood had increased so much that we

SOO ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

deemed it dangerous to attempt to ferry over any thing
else, and we prudently resolved to await the ebbing of
the river, which continued to grow rapidly the whole
of the day. In the afternoon I was obliged to inspan
the wagon which I had brought through on the pre-
ceding day, and remove it to a more elevated locality;
and it was well that I did so, for before morning the
river was running strong and deep on the ground which
it had occupied. I entertained considerable apprehen-
sion for my wagons on the opposite side of the river,
as they were now standing upon an island, and the
flood had already nearly reached to their wheels.

The flood continued to increase steadily until the
next afternoon, when it seemed to have reached its
maximum, and about sundown it was evidently upon
the ebb. During the whole of to-day and yesterday
the flood presented an appearance of extreme grandeur;
large blocks of wood and trunks of forest-trees were
constantly sweeping past us, tossed on the troubled
waters on their seaward course. In the course of the
afternoon the stout new cable by which the float was
worked, and which stretched across the river, each end
being secured to a rock-rifted trunk of a tree, burst
asunder, being unequal to resist the force of the swoll-
en river.

On the 14th, with much diflficulty, we got over the
cable by which the raft was worked, and the Boers, by
way of experiment, loaded her up with a party of
Bechuana Caffres, and endeavored to cross the river.
There was a small boat attached to the float. When
they had got about half way across, the water rose
partially over the float, when a panic came over both
the Boers and Bechuanas, and a rush was made into
the little boat. A capsize was the consequence ; and

ARRIVAL AT COLESBERG. 301

at the same moment, the rope which attached the boat
to the float parted. The unfortunate men were then
swept away down the rapid current ; and of twenty-
seven men who were on board of the punt, four only
escaped. Two of those who were drowned were Boers.
After this accident I directed ray men, who were in an
isolated position on the opposite side of the river, to in-
epan and remove down to NorVal's boat, below Alle-
man's Drift, where I met them with the cap-tent wag-
on ; and at sundown next day we had safely ferried
over the other two wagons, and encamped once more
on British territory.

The ferrying was a very laborious proceeding, each
wagon having to be off-loaded, and then taken to pieces,
and so brought over, bit by bit ; the oxen and horses,
&c., swam the river. My wagons were now all safely
across; so, after loading them, we marched on the 18th,
about 10 A.M. At sundown we entered the town of
Colesberg, and drew up opposite to the old barracks,
having been absent exactly twelve months.

As my wagons advanced into the town, the news of
our arrival spread like wildfire, and multitudes both of
men and good-looking young women rushed to see the
old elephant hunter, who had been mourned as dead.
We were soon surrounded by nearly one half of the
population, who mobbed-us until night setting in dis-
persed them to their homes.

[My friend Mr. Orpen, being blessed by nature with
an excellent constitution, had considerably recovered
from the dreadful wounds which he received from the
leopard on the banks of the Limpopo, but was still, 1
regret to say, obliged to carry his arms in slings. His
father, the Rev. Dr. Orpen, of Colesberg, informed me
tl:/ ^"^ had great hope of resttiring his arins to their

302 ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AFRICA.

former state, even at that late period, but of this I could
not help being very doubtful.]

During my stay in Colesberg I had much pleasure in
meeting my friend Mr. Oswell, of the Honorable East
India Company's Service. He was then en route for
the far interior, intending to penetrate the Kalihari in
a northwesterly direction, and visit the lake of boats.
This was an expedition which I myself had often
thought of making, but a limited finance, and my fan-
cy for collecting objects of natural history, led me to
incline my course to the more verdant forests of the
East, where I deemed I could more certainly first col-
lect, and then export, the precious spoils of the ele-
phant. Mr. Oswell being in want of draught oxen, I
permitted him to select as many as he required from
my extensive stock, with which he shortly set out, in
company with Mr. Murray, on his interesting journey
of discovery. I was occupied in Colesberg till the 12th
of April, when I marched to " Cuil Vonteyn," a farm
belonging to a Mrs. Van Blerk, which I reached in
about three hours ; the country all karroo, herds of
springboks feeding in sight of the house. Here I found
nine heavily-laden wagons drawn up, which I had hired
and laden up to transport my collection of hunting tro-
phies to the sea. When I entered Colesberg I had al-
most made up my mind to make another shooting ex-
pedition into the interior ; but a combination of cir
cumstances induced me at length to leave Africa for a
season, and revisit my native land. I felt much sor-
row and reluctance in coming to this resolution ; for,
although I had now spent the greater part of five sea-
sons in hunting in the far iaterior the various game
of Southc.rn Africa, I nevertheless did not feel in the
slightest iegree satiated with the sport which it affortJ.

DEPARTURE FOR ENGLAND 303

ed. On the contrary, the wild, free, heaxthy, roaming
life of a hunter had grown upon me, and I loved it more
and more. I could not help confessing to myself, how-
ever, that in the most laborious yet noble pursuit of
elephant hunting I was over-taxing my frame and too
rapidly wearing down my constitution. Moreover, the
time required to reach those extremely distant lands
frequented by the elephant was so great that it con-
sumed nearly one half of the season in going and re-
turning, and I ever found that my dogs and horses had
lost much of their spirit by the time they reached
those very remote districts. My nerves and constitu-
tion were considerably shaken by the power of a scorch-
ing African sun, and I considered that a voyage to En-
gland would greatly recruit my powers, and that on re-
turning I should renew my pursuits with increased zest.
Having thus resolved to leave the colony, I directed
my march toward Port Elizabeth, by way of Graff
Reinett, crossing the bold mountain range of Snew-
berg. On the 10th of May I reached the shores of the
ocean, which Ruyter and others of my followers, now
beholding for the first time, gazed upon with wonder
and with awe. On the 19th I took my passage for Old
England in the bark "Augusta." INIy valuable col-
lection of trophies and my Cape wagon, weighing all
together upward of thirty tons, were then carefully
shipped, and on the 7th of June I set sail (my little
Bushman accompanying me) for my native land, after
a sojourn of nearly five years in the wild hunting-
grounds of Southern Africa.

Tin: END.

^

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