oats tet oRes es a 3 Pics = 34 a 3 sc Bettie i Aeisizz3 pases Pai cs $33 cn eirisseat ati pa peat erties 2 pitt si mitt ry seoreressrn sepssteds fa5 33. roses 333 = Ers3 fe: ie Siti iat sien “ae a any sate 5 ate a Gass SK ASB Book WE J EIPA “a Saket \Go0o0o a iy THE HOME OF THE ELK. Hunting Trips on the Prairie and in the Mountains By ee Theodore Roosevelt Author of ‘* American Ideals,” ‘“‘ The Wilderness Hunter,” *“* The Winning of the West,” etc. “ Hunting Trips of a Ranchman ” Part 11, yw 20 of 2°29 o>? > @ » ») G. P. Putnam’s Sons New York and London Ig00 Ly TRS a CopyRIGHT, 1885 BY G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A TRIP ON THE PRAIRIE. The prong-horn antelope—Appearance, hab- its, and method of hunting—Hunting on horseback—Wariness, speed, curiosity, and incapacity to make high jumps—Fawns as pets—Eagles—Horned frogs—Rattlesnakes —Trip on the prairie in June—Sights and sounds—Desolate plains—Running antelope —Night camp—Prairie dogs—Badgers— Skylarks—A long shot—Clear weather— Camping among Medicine Buttes—Sunset on plateau CHAPTER II. A TRIP AFTER MOUNTAIN SHEEP, Spell of bitter weather—News brought of mountain sheep—Start after them—False alarm about bear—Character of Bad Lands —Description of mountain sheep or big- horn—Its wariness—Contrasted with other game—Its haunts—The hardest of all game to successfully hunt—Our trip—Cold 5 6 CONTENTS weather and tiresome walking—Very rough ground—Slippery, ice-covered crags—Ram LEGS i aes as eB AF ARUN ICY iph oo 8 CHAPTER Tim: THE LORDLY BUFFALO. Extinction of the vast herds—Causes—A ver- itable tragedy of the animal world—Senti- mental and practical sides—Traces left by buffalo—Skulls and trails—Merciless de- struction by hunters and by cattle men— Development of mountain race of the buf- falo—Buffalo-hunting—Noble sport—Slight danger—A man killed—My brother charged —Adventure of my cousin with a wounded buffalo—Three of my men and wounded cow—Buffalo and cattle—Hunting them on foot—Hunting on horseback—My brother in Texas—I take a trip in buffalo country— Wounded bull escapes—Miserable ‘night camp—Miss a cow in rain—Bad luck— Luck turns—Kill a bull—A wagon trip . 106 CHAPTER UY. STILL-HUNTING ELK ON THE MOUNTAINS. Former range of elk—Rapid destruction— Habits—Persecuted by hunters—Other foes —Lordly game—Trip to Bighorn Moun- tains—Managing pack-train—See elk and go into camp—Follow up band in mocca- CONTENTS ; sins—Kill two—Character of the deep woods—Sights and sounds of the forest— Blue grouse—Snow—Cold weather—Trout —Calling of bull elk—Killing elk in burned timber—Animals of the wilderness—Kill great bull elk—Kill another . . . . 155 CHAPTER -V. OLD VMEBRRATM . Dangerous game, but much less dangerous than formerly—Old-time hunters and weapons—Grizzly and other ferocious wild beasts—Only fights if wounded—Anecdotes of their killing and wounding men—At- tacks stock—Our hunting on the Bighorn Mountains—Merrifield kills black bear— Grizzly almost comes into camp—Tracks of grizzly—Watch for one at elk carcass— \Follow him up and kill him—Merrifield kills one—Five shot with seven bullets— She and cub killed—Return home . . . 197 Pe PEE (a ee oak ie ol) ee a a 7 f "i, t be Re: are i ce & TS PND, vi on Wot wi Eat PS Ag, dA hia BCT R ES. 1) oe ony | AAMAD an PART II CHAPTER | A TRIP ON THE PRAIRIE O antelope are found, except rarely, im- mediately round my _ ranch-house, where the ground is much too broken to suit them; but on the great prairies, ten or fif- teen miles off, they are plentiful, though far from as abundant as they were a few years ago when the cattle were first driven into the land. By plainsmen they are called either prong-horn or antelope, but are most often kuown by the latter and much less descrip- tive title. Where they are found they are always very conspicuous figures in the land- scape; for, far from attempting to conceal itself, an antelope really seems anxious to take up a prominent position, caring only to be able to itself see its foes. It is the smallest in size of the plains game, even 9 10 HUNTING TRIPS smaller than a white-tail deer; and its hide is valueless, being thin and porous, and mak- ing very poor buckskin. In its whole ap- pearance and structure it is a most singular creature. Unlike all other hollow-horned an- imals, it sheds its horns annually, exactly as the deer shed their solid antlers; but the shedding process in the prong-horn occupies but a very few days, so short a time, indeed, that many hunters stoutly deny that it takes place at all. The hair is of remarkable tex- ture, very long, coarse, and brittle; in the spring it comes off in handfuls. In strong contrast to the reddish yellow of the other parts of the body, the rump is pure white, and when alarmed or irritated every hair in the white patch bristles up on end, greatly increasing the apparent area of the color. The flesh, unlike that of any other plains ani- mal, is equally good all through the year. In the fall it is hardly so juicy as deer veni- son, but in the spring, when no other kind of game is worth eating, it is perfectly good; and at that time of the year, if we have to ON THE PRAIRIE | a get fresh meat, we would rather kill ante- lope than any thing else; and as the bucks are always to be instantly distinguished from the does by their large horns, we confine our- selves to them, and so work no harm to the species. The antelope is a queer-looking rather than a beautiful animal. The curious pronged horns, great bulging eyes, and strange bridle- like marks and bands on the face and throat are more striking, but less handsome, than the delicate head and branching antlers of a deer ; and it entirely lacks the latter animal’s grace of movement. In its form and look, when standing still, it is rather angular and goat-like, and its movements merely have the charm that comes from lightness, speed, and agility. Its gait is singularly regular and even, without any of the bounding, rolling movement of a deer; and it is, consequently, very easy to hit running, compared with other kinds of game. Antelope possess a most morbid curiosity. The appearance of any thing out of the way, i HUNTING TRIPS or to which they are not accustomed, often seems to drive them nearly beside themselves with mingled fright and desire to know what it is, a combination of feelings that throws them into a perfect panic, during whose con- tinuance they will at times seem utterly un- able to take care of themselves. In very remote, wild places, to which no white man often penetrates, the appearance of a white- topped wagon will be enough to excite this feeling in the prong-horn, and in such cases it is not unusual for a herd to come up and © circle round the strange object heedless of rifle-shots. This curiosity is particularly strong in the bucks during rutting-time, and one method of hunting them is to take ad- vantage of it, and “flag” them up to the hunters by waving a red handkerchief or some other object to and fro in the air. In very wild places they can sometimes be flagged up, even after they have seen the man; but, elsewhere, the latter must keep himself carefully concealed behind a ridge or hillock, or in tall grass, and keep cau- ON THE PRAIRIE 13 tiously waving the handkerchief overhead. The antelope will look fixedly at it, stamp, snort, start away, come nearer by fits and starts, and run from one side to the other, the better to see it. Sometimes a wary old buck will keep this up for half an hour, and at the end make off; but, again, the attraction may prove too strong, and the antelope comes slowly on until within rifle-shot. This method of hunting, however, is not so much practised now as formerly, as the antelope are getting continually shyer and more dif- ficult to flag. I have never myself shot one in this manner, though I have often seen the feat performed, and have several times tried it myself, but always with the result that after I had made my arm really weak with waving the handkerchief to and fro, the antelope, which had been shifting about just out of range, suddenly took to its heels and made off. No other kind of plains game, except the big-horn, is as shy and sharp-sighted as the antelope; and both its own habits and the 14 HUNTING TRIPS open nature of the ground on which it is found render it peculiarly difficult to stalk. There is no cover, and if a man is once seen by the game the latter will not let him get out of sight again, unless it decides to go off at a gait that soon puts half a dozen miles between them. It shifts its position, so as to keep the hunter continually in sight. Thus, if it is standing on a ridge, and the hunter disappear into a ravine up which he intends to crawl, the antelope promptly gal- lops off to some other place of observation from which its foe is again visible; and this is repeated until the animal at last makes up its mind to start for good, It keeps up an incessant watch, being ever on the look-out for danger, far or near; and as it can see- an immense distance, and has its home on_ ground so level that a horseman can be- made out a mile off, its attention is apt to be attracted when still four or five rifle-shots beyond range, and after it has once caught a glimpse of the foe, the latter might as well give up all hopes of getting the game. ON THE PRAIRIE I5 But while so much more wary than deer, it is also at times much more foolish, and has certain habits—some of which, such as its in- ordinate curiosity and liability to panic, have already been alluded to—that tend to its des- truction. Ordinarily, it is a far more dif- ficult feat to kill an antelope than it is to kill a deer, but there are times when the former can be slaughtered in such numbers that it becomes mere butchery. The prong-horn is pre-eminently a grega- rious animal. It is found in bands almost all the year through. During the two or three days after he has shed his horns and while the new ones are growing the buck re- tires to some out-of-the-way spot, and while bringing forth her fawns the doe stays by herself. But as soon as possible each again rejoins the band; and the fawns become members of it at a remarkably early age. In the late fall, when the bitter cold has be- gun, a large number of these bands collect together, and immense herds are formed which last throughout the winter. Thus at 16 HUNTING TRIPS this season a man may travel for days through regions where antelope are most plentiful during the hot months and never see one; but if he does come across any they will be apt to be in great numbers, most prob- ably along the edge of the Bad Lands, where the ground is rolling rather than broken, but where there is some shelter from the furious winter gales. Often they will even come down to the river bottom or find their way up to some plateau. They now always hang closely about the places they have chosen for their winter haunts, and seem very reluctant to leave them. They go in dense herds, and when starved and weak with cold are less shy ; and can often be killed in great numbers by any one who has found out where they are—though a true sportsman will not mo- lest them at this season. Sometimes a small number of individuals will at this time get separated from the main herd and take up their abode in some place by themselves; and when they have once done so it is almost impossible to drive ON THE PRAIRIE 17 them away. Last winter a solitary prong- horn strayed into the river bottom at the mouth of a wide creek-valley, half a mile from my ranch, and stayed there for three months, keeping with the cattle, and always being found within a mile of the same spot. A little band at the same time established it- self on a large plateau, about five miles long by two miles wide, some distance up the river above me, and afforded fine sport to a couple of ranchmen who lived not far from its base. The antelope, twenty or thirty in number, would not leave the plateau, which lies in the midst of broken ground; for it is a pecul- iarity of these animals, which will be spoken of further on, that they will try to keep in the open ground at any cost or hazard. The two ranchmen agreed never to shoot at the antelope on foot, but only to try to kill them from horseback, either with their revolvers or their Winchesters. They thus hunted them for the sake of the sport purely ; and certainly they got plenty of fun out of them. Very few horses indeed are as fast as a prong- 18 HUNTING TRIPS horn; and these few did not include any owned by either of my two friends. But the antelope were always being obliged to break back from the edge of the plateau, and so were forced constantly to offer opportu- nities for cutting them off; and these op- portunities were still further increased by the two hunters separating. One of them would go to the upper end of the plateau and start the band, riding after them at full speed. They would distance him, but would be checked in their career by coming to the brink of the cliff; then they would turn at an angle and give their pursuer a chance to cut them off; and if they kept straight up the middle the other hunter would head them. When a favorable moment came the hunters would dash in as close as possible and empty their revolvers or repeaters into the herd; but it is astonishing how hard it is, when riding a horse at full speed, to hit any ob- ject, unless it is directly under the muzzle of the weapon. The number of cartridges spent compared to the number of prong-horn ON THE PRAIRIE 19 killed was enormous; but the fun and excite- ment of the chase were the main objects with my friends, to whom the actual killing of the game was of entirely secondary importance. They went out after them about a dozen times during the winter, and killed in all ten or fifteen prong-horns. A prong-horn is by far the fleetest animal on the plains; one can outrun and outlast a deer with the greatest ease. Very swift greyhounds can overtake them, if hunted in leashes or couples; but only a remarkably good dog can run one down single-handed. Besides prong-horn are most plucky little creatures, and will make a most resolute fight against a dog or wolf, striking with their fore-feet and punching with their not very formidable horns, and are so quick and wiry as to be really rather hard to master. Antelope have the greatest objection to go- ing on any thing but open ground, and seem to be absolutely unable to make a high jump. If a band is caught feeding in the bottom of a valley leading into a plain they invari- 20 HUNTING TRIPS ably make a rush straight to the mouth, even if the foe is stationed there, and will run heedlessly by him, no matter how narrow the mouth is, rather than not try to reach the open country. It is almost impossible to force them into even a small patch of brush, and they will face almost certain death rather than try to leap a really very trifling obsta- cle. If caught in a glade surrounded by a slight growth of brushwood, they make no effort whatever to get through or over this growth, but dash frantically out through the way by which they got in. Often the deer, especially the black-tail, will wander out on the edge of the plain frequented by antelope ; and it is curious to see the two animals sep- arate the second there -is an alarm, the deer making for the broken coun- try, while the antelope scud for the level plains. Once two of my men nearly caught a couple of antelope in their hands. They were out driving in the buck-board, and saw two antelope, a long distance ahead, enter the mouth of a wash-out (a canyon im ON THE PRAIRIE 2I petto); they had strayed away from the prairie to the river bottom, and were evi- dently feeling lost. My two men did not think much of the matter but when opposite the mouth of the wash-out, which was only thirty feet or so wide, they saw the two an- telopes. starting to come out, having found that it was a blind passage, with no outlet at the other end. Both men jumped out of the buck-board and ran to the entrance; the two antelope dashed frantically to and fro inside the wash-out. The sides were steep, but a deer would have scaled them at once; yet the antelope seemed utterly unable to do this, and finally broke out past the two men and got away. They came so close that the men were able to touch each of them, but their movements were too quick to permit of their being caught. However, though unable to leap any height, an antelope can skim across a level jump like a bird, and will go over water- courses and wash-outs that very few horses indeed will face. A mountain-sheep, on the 22 HUNTING TRIPS other hand, is a marvellous vertical leaper; the black-tail deer comes next; the white-tail is pretty good, and the elk is at any rate bet- ter than the antelope; but when it comes to horizontal jumping the latter can beat them all. In May or early June the doe brings forth her fawns, usually two in number, for she is very prolific. She makes her bed in some valley or hollow, and keeps with the rest of the band, only returning to the fawns to feed them. They lie out in the grass or under some slight bush, but are marvellously hard to find. By instinct they at once know how to crouch down so as to be as inconspicuous as possible. Once we scared away a female | prong-horn from an apparently perfectly level hill-side; and in riding along passed over the spot she had left and came upon two little fawns that could have been but a few hours old. They lay flat in the grass, with their legs doubled under them and their necks and heads stretched out on the ground. When we took them up and handled them, ON THE PRAIRIE 23 they soon got used to us and moved awk- wardly round, but at any sudden noise or motion they would immediately squat flat down again. But at a very early age the fawns learn how to shift for themselves, and can then run almost as fast as their parents, even when no larger than a jack-rabbit. Once, while we were haying, a couple of my cow-boys spent half an hour in trying to run down and capture a little fawn, but they were unable to catch it, it ran so fast and ducked about so quickly. Antelope fawns are very easily tamed and make most amus- ing pets. We have had two or three, but have never succeeded in rearing any of them; but some of the adjoining ranchmen have been more fortunate. They are not nearly so pretty as deer fawns, having long, gang- ling legs and angular bodies, but they are much more familiar and interesting. One of my neighbors has three live prong- horns, as well as two little spotted white-tail deer. The deer fawns are always skulking about, and are by no means such bold in- 24 HUNTING TRIPS quisitive little creatures as the small antelope are. The latter have a nurse in the shape of a fat old ewe; and it is funny to see her, when alarmed, running off at a waddling gait, while her ungainly little foster-children skip round and round her, cutting the most extraordinary antics. There are a couple of very large dogs, mastiffs, on the place, whose natural solemnity is completely disconcerted by the importunities and fearlessness of the little antelope fawns. Where one goes the other two always follow, and so one of the mastiffs, while solemnly blinking in the sun, will suddenly find himself charged at full speed by the three queer little creatures, who will often fairly butt up against him. The uneasy look of the dog, and his efforts to get out of the way without compromising his dignity, are really very comical. Young fawns seem to give out no scent, and thus many of them escape from the nu- merous carnivorous beasts that are ever prowling about at night over the prairie, and which, during the spring months, are al- ON THE PRAIRIE 25 ways fat from feeding on the bodies of the innocents they have murdered. If discov- ered by a fox or coyote during its first few days of existence a little fawn has no chance of life, although the mother, if present, will fight desperately for it; but after it has ac- quired the use of its legs it has no more to fear than have any of the older ones. Sometimes the fawns fall victims to the great Golden Eagle. This grand bird, the War Eagle of the Sioux, is not very common in the Bad Lands, but is sometimes still seen with us; and, as everywhere else, its mere presence adds a certain grandeur to its lonely haunts. Two or three years ago a nest was found by one of my men on the face of an almost inaccessible cliff, and a young bird was taken out from it and reared in a roughly extemporized cage. Wherever the eagle exists it holds undisputed sway over every thing whose size does not protect it from the great bird’s beak and talons; not only does it feed on hares, grouse, and ducks, but it will also attack the young fawns of the 26 HUNTING TRIPS deer and antelope. Still, the eagle is but an occasional foe, and aside from man, the only formidable enemies the antelope has to fear are the wolves and coyotes. These are very destructive to the young, and are al- ways lounging about the band to pick up any wounded straggler; in winter, when the ground is slippery and the antelope numbed and weak, they will often commit great havoc even among those that are grown up. The voice of the antelope is not at all like that of the deer. Instead of bleating it ut- ters a quick, harsh noise, a kind of bark; a little like the sound “kau,” sharply and clearly repeated. It can be heard a long dis- tance off; and is usually uttered when the animal is a little startled or surprised by the presence of something it does not under- stand. The prong-horn cannot go without water any longer than a deer can, and will go great distances to get it; for space is nothing to a traveller with such speed and such last. No matter how dry and barren may be the desert ON THE PRAIRIE 27 in which antelope are found, it may be taken for granted that they are always within reaching distance of some spring or pool of water, and that they visit it once a day. Once or twice I have camped out by some pool, which was the only one for miles around, and in every such case have been surprised at night by the visits of the antelope, who, on finding that their drinking-place was ten- anted, would hover round at a short distance, returning again and again and continually uttering the barking “kau, kau,” until they became convinced that there was no hope of their getting in, when they would set off at a run for some other place. Prong-horn perhaps prefer the rolling prairies of short grass as their home, but seem to do almost equally well on the deso- late and monotonous wastes where the sage- brush and prickly pear and a few blades of coarse grass are the only signs of plant life to be seen. In such places, the prong-horn, the sage cock, the rattlesnake, and the horned frog alone are able to make out a livelihood. 28 HUNTING TRIPS The horned frog is not a frog at all, but a lizard,—a queer, stumpy little fellow with spikes all over the top of its head and back, and given to moving in the most leisurely manner imaginable. Nothing will make it hurry. If taken home it becomes a very tame and quaint but also very uninteresting little pet. Rattlesnakes are only too plentiful every- where; along the river bottoms, in the broken, hilly ground, and on the prairies and the great desert wastes alike. Every cow-boy kills dozens each season. To a man wearing top-boots there is little or no dan- ger while he is merely walking about, for the fangs cannot get through the leather, and the snake does not strike as high as the knee. Indeed the rattlesnake is not nearly as dangerous as are most poisonous serpents, for it always gives fair warning before striking, and is both sluggish and timid. If it can it will get out of the way, and only coils up in its attitude of defence when it believes that it is actually menaced. ON THE PRAIRIE 29 It is, of course, however, both a dangerous and a disagreeable neighbor, and one of its annoying traits is the fondness it displays for crawling into a hut or taking refuge among the blankets left out on the ground. Except in such cases men are rarely in dan- ger from it, unless they happen to be stooping over, as was the case with one of my cow-boys who had leaned over to pick up a log, and was almost bitten by a snake which was underneath it; or unless the snake is encountered while stalking an ani- mal. Once I was creeping up to an ante- lope under cover of some very low sage- brush—so low that I had to lie flat on my face and push myself along with my hands and feet. While cautiously moving on in this way I was electrified by hearing almost by my ears the well-known, ominous “ whir-r-r ” of a rattlesnake, and on hastily glancing up there was the reptile, not ten feet away from me, all coiled up and wait- ing. I backed off and crawled to one side, the rattler turning its head round to keep 30 HUNTING TRIPS watch over my movements; when the stalk was over (the antelope took alarm and ran off before I was within rifle-shot) I came back, hunted up the snake, and killed it. Although I have known of several men being bitten, I Know of but one case where the bite caused the death of a human being. This was a girl who had been out milk- ing, and was returning, in bare feet; the snake struck her just above the ankle, and in her fright she fell and was struck again in the neck. The double wound was too much for her, and the poison killed her in the course of a couple of hours. Occasionally one meets a_ rattlesnake whose rattle has been lost or injuréd; and such a one is always dangerous, because it strikes without warning. I once nearly lost a horse by the bite of one of these snakes without rattles. I was riding along a path when my horse gave a tremendous start and jump; looking back I saw that it had been struck at by a rattlesnake with an injured tail, which had been lying hid ON THE PRAIRIE 31 in a bunch of grass, directly beside the path. Luckily it had merely hit the hard hoof, breaking one of its fangs. Horses differ very much in their conduct toward snakes. Some show great fright at sight of them or on hearing their rat- tles, plunging and rearing and refusing to go anywhere near the spot; while others have no fear of them at all, being really per- fectly stupid about them. Manitou does not lose his wits at all over them, but at the same time takes very good care not to come within striking distance. Ranchmen often suffer some loss among their stock owing to snake-bites; both horned cattle and horses, in grazing, fre- quently coming on snakes and having their noses or cheeks bitten. Generally, these wounds are not fatal, though very uncom- fortable; it is not uncommon to see a woe- begone looking mule with its head double the natural size, in consequence of having incautiously browsed over a snake. A neighbor lost a weak pony in this way; and 32 HUNTING TRIPS one of our best steers also perished from the same cause. But in the latter case, the an- imal, like the poor girl spoken of above, had received two wounds with the poison fangs ; apparently it had, while grazing with its head down, been first struck in the nose, and been again struck in the foreleg as it started away. Of all kinds of hunting, the chase of the antelope is pre-eminently that requiring skill in the use of the rifle at long range. The distance at which shots have to be taken in antelope hunting is at least double the ordinary distance at which deer are fired at. In pursuing most other kinds of game, a hunter who is not a good shot may still do excellent work; but in prong-horn hunt- ing, no man can make even a fairly good record unless he is a skilful marksman. I have myself done but little hunting after antelopes, and have not, as a rule, been very successful in the pursuit. Ordinary hounds are rarely, or never, used to chase this game ; but coursing it with ON THE PRAIRIE 33 greyhounds is as manly and exhilarating a form of sport as can be imagined,—a much better way of hunting it than is shooting it with the rifle, which latter, though needing more skill in the actual use of the weapon, is in every other respect greatly inferior as a sport to still-hunting the black-tail or big- horn. I never but once took a trip of any length with antelope hunting for its chief object. This was one June, when all the men were away on the round-up. As is usual during the busy half of the ranchman’s year, the spring and summer, when men have no time to hunt and game is out of condition, we had been living on salt pork, beans, potatoes, and bread; and I had hardly had a rifle in my hand for months; so, finding I had a few days to spare, I thought I should take a short trip on the prairie, in the beautiful June weather, and get a little sport and a little fresh meat out of the bands of prong- horn bucks, which I was sure to encounter: Intending to be gone but a couple of days, 34 HUNTING TRIPS it was not necessary to take many articles. Behind my saddle I carried a blanket for bedding, and an oil-skin coat to ward off the wet; a large metal cup with the han- dle riveted, not soldered on, so_ that water could be boiled in it; a lit- tle tea and salt, and some biscuits; and a small water-proof bag containing my half dozen personal necessaries—not forgetting a book. The whole formed a small, light pack, very little encumbrance to stout old Manitou. In June, fair weather can generally be counted on in the dry plains country. I started in the very earliest morning, when the intense brilliancy of the stars had just begun to pale before the first streak of dawn. By the time I left the river bot- tom and struck off up the valley of a wind- ing creek, which led through the Bad Lands, the eastern sky was growing rosy; and soon the buttes and cliffs were lit up by the level rays of the cloudless summer sun. The air was fresh and sweet, and odorous with the sweet scents of the spring-time that was but ON THE PRAIRIE 35 barely passed; the dew lay heavy, in glit- tering drops, on the leaves and the blades of grass, whose vivid green, at this season, for a short time brightens the desolate and sterile-looking wastes of the lonely western plains. The rose-bushes were all in bloom, and their pink blossoms clustered in every point and bend of the stream; and the sweet, sad songs of the hermit thrushes rose from the thickets, while the meadow larks perched boldly in sight as they uttered their louder and more cheerful music. The round-up had passed by our ranch, and all the cattle with our brands, the maltese cross and cut dewlap, or the elk-horn and triangle, had been turned loose; they had not yet worked away from the river, and I rode by long strings of them, walking in single file off to the hills, or standing in groups to look at me as I passed. Leaving the creek I struck off among a region of scoria buttes, the ground rising into rounded hills through whose grassy cover- ing the red volcanic rock showed in places, 36 HUNTING TRIPS while boulder-like fragments of it were scat- tered all through the valleys between. There were a few clumps of bushes here and there, and near one of them were two mag- pies, who lit on an old buffalo skull, bleached white by sun and snow. Magpies are birds that catch the eye at once from their bold black and white plumage and long tails; and they are very saucy and at the same time very cunning and shy. In spring we do not often see them; but in the late fall and win- ter they will come close round the huts and out-buildings on the look-out for any thing to eat. If a deer is hung up and they can get at it they will pick it to pieces with their sharp bills; and their carnivorous tastes and their habit of coming round hunters’ camps after the game that is left out, call to mind their kinsman, the whiskey-jack or moose- bird of the northern forests. After passing the last line of low, rounded scoria buttes, the horse stepped out on the border of the great, seemingly endless stretches of rolling or nearly level prairie, ON THE PRAIRIE 37 over which I had planned to travel and hunt for the next two or three days. At inter- vals of ten or a dozen miles this prairie was crossed by dry creeks, with, in places in their beds, pools or springs of water, and alongside a spindling growth of trees and bushes ; and my intention was to hunt across these creeks, and camp by some water-hole in one of them at night. I rode over the land in a general southerly course, bending to the right or left according to the nature of the ground and the likeli- hood of finding game. Most of the time the horse kept on a steady single-foot, but this was varied by a sharp lope every now and then, to ease the muscles of both steed and rider. .The sun was well up, and its beams beat fiercely down on our heads from out of the cloudless sky; for at this season, though the nights and the early morning and late evening are cool and pleasant, the hours around noon are very hot. My glass was slung alongside the saddle, and from every one of the scattered hillocks the country 38 HUNTING TRIPS was scanned carefully far and near; and the greatest caution was used in riding up over any divide, to be sure that no game on the opposite side was scared by the sudden ap- pearance of my horse or myself. Nowhere, not even at sea, does a man feel more lonely than when riding over the iar- reaching, seemingly never-ending plains; and after a man has lived a little while on or near them, their very vastness and loneliness and their melancholy monotony have a strong fascination for him. The landscape seems always the same, and after the trav- eller has plodded on for miles and miles he gets to feel as if the distance was indeed boundless. As far as the eye can see there is no break; either the prairie stretches out into perfectly level fiats, or else there are gentle, rolling slopes, whose crests mark the divides between the drainage systems of the different creeks; and when one of these is ascended, immediately another precisely like it takes its place in the distance, and so roll succeeds roll in a succession as intermin- ON THE PRAIRIE | 39 able as that of the waves of the ocean. No- where else does one seem so far off from all mankind; the plains stretch out in death- like and measureless expanse, and as he journeys over them they will for many miles be lacking in all signs of life. Although he can see so far, yet all objects on the outer- most verge of the horizon, even though within the ken of his vision, look unreal and strange; for there is no shade to take away from the bright glare, and at a little dis- tance things seem to shimmer and dance in the hot rays of the sun. The ground is scorched to a dull brown, and against its monotonous expanse any objects stand out with a prominence that makes it difficult to judge of the distance at which they are. A mile off one can see, through the strange shimmering haze, the shadowy white out- lines of something which looms vaguely up till it looks as large as the canvas-top of a prairie wagon; but as the horseman comes nearer it shrinks and dwindles and takes clearer form, until at last it changes into the 40 HUNTING TRIPS ghastly staring skull of some mighty buffalo, long dead and gone to join the rest of his vanished race. When the grassy prairies are left and the traveller enters a region of alkali desert and sage-brush, the look of the country becomes even more grim and forbidding. In places the alkali forms a white frost on the ground that glances in the sunlight like the surface of a frozen lake; the dusty little sage-brush, stunted and dried up, sprawls over the parched ground, from which it can hardly extract the small amount of nourishment necessary for even its weazened life; the spiny cactus alone seems to be really in its true home. Yet even in such places antelope will be found, as alert and as abounding with vivacious life as elsewhere. Owing to the magnifying and distorting power of the clear, dry plains air, every object, no matter what its shape or color or apparent distance, needs the closest examination. A magpie sitting on a white skull, or a couple of ravens, will look, a quarter of a mile off, like some ON THE PRAIRIE 41 curious beast; and time and again a raw hunter will try to stalk a lump of clay or a burnt stick; and after being once or twice disappointed he is apt to rush to the other extreme, and conclude too hastily that a given object is not an antelope, when it very possibly is. During the morning I came in sight of several small bands or pairs of antelope. Most of them saw me as soon as or before I saw them, and after watching me with in- tense curiosity as long as I was in sight and at a distance, made off at once as soon as I went into a hollow or appeared to be ap- proaching too near. Twice, in scanning the country narrowly with the glasses, from be- hind a sheltering divide, bands of prong-horn were seen that had not discovered me. In each case the horse was at once left to graze, while I started off after the game, nearly a mile distant. For the first half mile I could walk upright or go along half stooping ; then, as the distance grew closer, I had to crawl on all fours and keep behind any little broken 42 HUNTING TRIPS bank, or take advantage of a small, dry watercourse; and toward the end work my way flat on my face, wriggling like a ser- pent, using every stunted sagebrush or patch of cactus as a cover, bare-headed under the blazing sun. In each case, after nearly an hour’s irksome, thirsty work, the stalk failed. One band simply ran off without a second’s warning, alarmed at some awkward move- ment on my part, and without giving a chance for a shot. In the other instance, while still at very long and uncertain range, I heard the sharp barking alarm-note of one of the prong-horn; the whole band instantly raising their heads and gazing intently at their would-be destroyer. They were a very long way off; but, seeing it was hopeless to try to get nearer I rested my rifle over a little mound of earth and fired. The dust came up in a puff to one side of the nearest ante- lope ; the whole band took a few jumps and turned again; the second shot struck at their feet, and they went off like so many race-horses, being missed again as they ran. ON THE PRAIRIE 43 I sat up by a sage-brush thinking they would of course not come back, when to my sur- prise I saw them wheel round with the pre- cision of a cavalry squadron, all in line and fronting me, the white and brown markings on their heads and throats showing like the facings on soldiers’ uniforms ; and then back they came charging up till again within long range, when they wheeled their line as if on a pivot and once more made off, this time for good, not heeding an ineffectual fusillade from the Winchester. Antelope often go through a series of regular evolutions, like sO many trained horsemen, wheeling, turn- ing, halting, and running as if under com- mand; and their coming back to again run the (as it proved very harmless) gauntlet of my fire was due either to curiosity or to one of those panicky freaks which occasionally seize those ordinarily wary animals, and cause them to run into danger easily avoided by creatures commonly much more readily approached than they are. I had fired half a dozen shots without effect; but while no 44 HUNTING TRIPS one ever gets over his feeling of self-indig- nation at missing an easy shot at close quar- ters, any one who hunts antelope and is not of a disposition so timid as never to take chances, soon learns that he has to expect to expend a good deal of powder and lead be- fore bagging his game. By mid-day we reached a dry creek and followed up its course for a mile or so, till a small spot of green in the side of a bank showed the presence of water, a little pool - of which lay underneath. The ground was so rotten that it was with difficulty I could get Manitou down where he could drink; but at last both of us satisfied our thirst, and he was turned loose to graze, with his saddle off, so as to cool his back, and I, after eat- ing a biscuit, lay on my face on the ground— there was no shade of any sort near—and dozed until a couple of hours’ rest and feed had put the horse in good trim for the after- noon ride. When it came to crossing over the dry creek on whose bank we had rested, we almost went down in a quicksand, and it ON THE PRAIRIE 45 was only by frantic struggles and flounder- ings that we managed to get over. On account of these quicksands and mud- holes, crossing the creeks on the prairie is often very disagreeable work. Even when apparently perfectly dry the bottom may have merely a thin crust of hard mud and un- derneath a fathomless bed of slime. If the grass appears wet and with here and there a few tussocks of taller blades in it, it is well to avoid it. Often a man may have to go along a creek nearly a mile before he can find a safe crossing, or else run the risk of seeing his horse mired hard and fast. When a horse is once in a mud-hole it will perhaps so exhaust itself by its first desperate and fruit- less struggle that it is almost impossible to get it out. Its bridle and saddle have to be taken off ; if another horse is along the lariat is drawn from the pommel of the latter’s sad- dle to the neck of the one that is in, and it is hauled out by main force. Otherwise a man may have to work half a day, fixing the horse’s legs in the right position and then 46 ' HUNTING TRIPS taking it by the forelock and endeavoring to get it to make a plunge; each plunge bring- ing it perhaps a few inches nearer the firm ground. Quicksands are even more danger- ous than these mud-holes, as, if at all deep, a creature that cannot get out immediately is sure to be speedily engulfed. Many parts of the Little Missouri are impassable on ac- count of these quicksands. Always in cross- ing unknown ground that looks dangerous it is best to feel your way very cautiously along and, if possible, to find out some cattle trail or even game trail which can be fol- lowed. For some time after leaving the creek nothing was seen; until, on coming over the crest of the next great divide, I came in sight of a band of six or eight prong-horn about a quarter of a mile off to my right hand. There was a slight breeze from the southeast, which blew diagonally across my path towards the antelopes. The latter, after staring at me a minute, as I rode slowly on, suddenly started at full speed to run directly up wind, ON THE PRAIRIE 47 and therefore in a direction that would cut the line of my course less than half a mile ahead of where I was. Knowing thet when antelope begin running in a straight line they are very hard to turn, and seeing that they would have to run a longer distance than my horse would to intercept them, I clapped spurs into Manitou, and the game old fel- low, a very fleet runner, stretched himself down to the ground and seemed to go almost as fast as the quarry. As I had expected, the latter, when they saw me running, merely straightened themselves out and went on, possibly even faster than before, without changing the line of their flight, keeping right up wind. Both horse and antelope fairly flew over the ground, their courses being at an angle that would certainly bring them together. Two of the antelope led, by some fifty yards or so, the others, who were all bunched together. Nearer and nearer we came, Manitou, in spite of carrying myself and the pack behind the saddle, gamely hold- ing his own, while the antelope, with out- 48 HUNTING TRIPS stretched necks, went at an even, regular gait that offered a strong contrast to the spring- ing bounds with which a deer runs. At last the two leading animals crossed the line of my flight ahead of me; when I pulled short up, leaped from Manitou’s back, and blazed into the band as they went by not forty yards off, aiming well ahead of a fine buck who was on the side nearest me. An antelope’s gait is so even that it offers a good running mark; and as the smoke blew off I saw the buck roll over like a rabbit, with both shoul- ders broken. I then emptied the Winchester at the rest of the band, breaking one hind leg of a young buck. MHastily cutting the throat of, and opening, the dead buck, I again mounted and started off after the wounded one. But, though only on three legs, it went astonishingly fast, having had a good start; and after following it over a mile I gave up the pursuit, though I had gained a good deal; for the heat was very great, and I did not deem it well to tire the horse at the beginning of the trip. Re- ON THE PRAIRIE 49 turning to the carcass, I cut off the hams and strung them beside the saddle; an ante- lope is so spare that there is very little more meat on the body. This trick of running in a straight line is another of the antelope’s peculiar character- istics which frequently lead it into danger. Although with so much sharper eyes than a deer, antelope are in many ways far stupider animals, more like sheep, and they especially resemble the latter in their habit of following a leader, and in their foolish obstinacy in keeping to a course they have once adopted. If a horseman starts to head off a deer the latter will always turn long before he has come within range, but quite often an ante- lope will merely increase his speed and try to pass ahead of his foe. Almost always, however, one if alone will keep out of gun- shot, owing to the speed at which he goes, but if there are several in a band which is well strung out, the leader only cares for his own safety and passes well ahead him- self. The others follow like sheep, without 50 HUNTING TRIPS turning in the least from the line the first followed, and thus may pass within close range. If the leader bounds into the air, those following will often go through exactly the same motions; and if he turns, the others are very apt to each in succession run up and turn in the same place, unless the whole band are manceuvring together, like a squad- ron of cavalry under orders, as has already been spoken of. After securing the buck’s hams and head (the latter for the sake of the horns, which were unusually long and fine), I pushed rapidly on without stopping to hunt, to reach some large creek which should contain both wood and water, for even in summer a fire adds greatly to the comfort and cosiness of a night camp. When the sun had nearly set we went over a divide and came in sight of a creek fulfilling the required conditions. It wound its way through a valley of rich bot- tom land, cotton-wood trees of no great height or size growing in thick groves along its banks, while its bed contained many deep ON THE PRAIRIE 51 pools of water, some of it fresh and good. I rode into a great bend, with a grove of trees on its right and containing excellent feed. Manitou was loosed, with the lariat round his neck, to feed where he wished un- til I went to bed, when he was to be taken to a place where the grass was thick and succulent, and tethered out for the night. There was any amount of wood with which a fire was started for cheerfulness, and some of the coals were soon raked off apart to cook over. The horse blanket was spread on the ground, with the oil-skin over it as a bed, underneath a spreading cotton-wood tree, while the regular blanket served as cov- ering. The metal cup was soon filled with water and simmering over the coals to make tea, while an antelope steak was roasting on a forked stick. It is wonderful how cosy a camp, in clear weather, becomes if there is a good fire and enough to eat, and how sound the sleep is afterwards in the cool air, with the brilliant stars glimmering through the branches overhead. In the country where I 52 HUNTING TRIPS was there was absolutely no danger from In- dian horse-thieves, and practically none from white ones, for I felt pretty sure no one was anywhere within a good many miles of me, and none could have seen me come into the valley. Besides, in the cattle country steal- ing horses is a hazardous profession, as any man who is found engaged in it is at once, and very properly, strung up to the nearest tree, or shot if no trees are handy; so very few people follow it, at least for any length of time, and a man’s horses are generally safe. Near where we had halted for the night camp was a large prairie-dog town. Prairie- dogs are abundant all over the cattle coun- try ; they are in shape like little woodchucks, and are the most noisy and inquisitive ani- mals imaginable. They are never found sin- gly, but always in towns of several hundred inhabitants ; and these towns are found in all kinds of places where the country is flat and treeless. Sometimes they will be placed on the bottoms of the creeks or rivers, and again ON THE PRAIRIE 53 far out on the prairie or among the Bad Lands, a long distance from any water. In- deed, so dry are some of the localities in which they exist, that it is a marvel how they can live at all; yet they seem invariably plump and in good condition. They are ex- ceedingly destructive to grass, eating away every thing round their burrows, and thus each town is always extending at the bor- ders, while the holes in the middle are de- serted; in many districts they have become a perfect bane to the cattle-men, for the in- coming of man has been the means of caus- ing a great falling off in the ranks of their four-footed foes, and this main check to their increase being gone, they multiply at a rate that threatens to make them a serious pest in the future. They are among the few plains animals who are benefited instead of being injured by the presence of man; and it is most difficult to exterminate them or to keep their number in any way under, as they are prolific to a most extraordinary degree; and the quantity of good feed they destroy is 54 HUNTING TRIPS very great, and as they eat up the roots of the grass it is a long time before it grows again. Already in many districts the stock- “men are seriously considering the best way in which to take steps against them. Prairie- dogs wherever they exist are sure to attract attention, all the more so because, unlike most other rodents, they are diurnal and not nocturnal, offering therein a curious case of parallelism to their fellow denizen of the dry plains, the antelope, which is also a creat- ure loving to be up and stirring in the bright daylight, unlike its relatives, the dusk-loving deer. They are very noisy, their shrill yelp- ing resounding on all sides whenever a man rides through a town. None go far from their homes, always keeping close enough to be able to skulk into them at once; and as soon as a foe appears they take refuge on the hillocks beside their burrows, yelping continuously, and accompanying each yelp by a spasmodic jerking of the tail and body. When the man comes a little nearer they dis- appear inside and then thrust their heads out, ON THE PRAIRIE 55 for they are most inquisitive. Their bur- rows form one of the chief dangers to riding at full speed over the plains country ; hardly any man can do much riding on the prairie for more than a year or two without coming to grief on more than one occasion by his horse putting its foot in a prairie-dog hole. A badger hole is even worse. When a horse gets his foot in such a hole, while going at full speed, he turns a complete somersault, and is lucky if he escape without a broken leg, while I have time and again known the rider to be severely injured. There are other smaller animals whose burrows sometimes cause a horseman to receive a sharp tumble. These are the pocket-gophers, queer creat- ures, shaped like moles and having the same subterranean habits, but with teeth like a rat’s, and great pouches on the outside of their jaws, whose long, rambling tunnels cover the ground in certain places, though the animals themselves are very rarely seen; and the little striped gophers and gray go- phers, entirely different animals, more like 56 HUNTING TRIPS ground squirrels. But the prairie-dog is al- ways the main source of danger to the horse- man, as well as of mischief to the cattle- herder. Around the prairie-dog towns it is always well to keep a look-out for the smaller car- nivora, especially coyotes and badgers, as they are very fond of such neighborhoods, and almost always it is also a favorite resort for the larger kinds of hawks, which are so numerous throughout the cattle country. Rattlesnakes are quite plenty, living in the deserted holes, and the latter are also the homes of the little burrowing owls, which will often be seen standing at the opening, ready to run in as quick as any of the prairie- dogs if danger threatens. They have a funny habit of gravely bowing or posturing at the passer-by, and stand up very erect on their legs. With the exception of this species, owls are rare in the cattle country. A prairie-dog is rather a difficult animal to get, as it stands so close to its burrow that a spasmodic kick, even if at the last gasp, ON THE PRAIRIE 57 sends the body inside, where it cannot be re- covered. The cowboys are always practis- ing at them with their revolvers, and as they are pretty good shots, mortally wound a good many, but unless the force of the blow fairly knocks the prairie-dog away from the mouth of the burrow, it almost always man- ages to escape inside. But a good shot with the rifle can kill any number by lying down quietly and waiting a few minutes until the dogs get a little distance from the mouths of their homes. Badgers are more commonly found round prairie-dog towns than anywhere else; and they get their chief food by digging up the prairie-dogs and gophers with their strong forearms and long, stout claws. They are not often found wandering away from their homes in the daytime, but if so caught are easily run down and killed. A badger is a most desperate fighter, and an overmatch for a coyote, his hide being very thick and his form so squat and strong that it is hard to break his back or legs, while his sharp teeth 58 HUNTING TRIPS erip like a steel trap. A very few seconds allow him to dig a hole in the ground, into which he can back all except his head; and when placed thus, with his rear and flanks protected, he can beat off a dog many times his own size. A young badger one night came up round the ranch-house, and began gnawing at some bones that had been left near the door. Hearing the noise one of my men took a lantern and went outside. The glare of the light seemed to make the badger stupid, for after looking at the lantern a few moments, it coolly turned and went on eat- ing the scraps of flesh on the bones, and was knocked on the head without attempting to escape. To come back to my trip. Early in the morning J was awakened by the shrill yelp- ing of the prairie-dogs whose town was near me. The sun had not yet risen, and the air had the peculiar chill it always takes on to- ward morning, while little wreaths of light mist rose from the pools. Getting up and loosing Manitou to let him feed round where ON THE PRAIRIE 59 he wished and slake his thirst, I took the rifle, strolled up the creek valley a short dis- tance, and turned off out on the prairie. Nothing was in sight in the way of game; but overhead a skylark was singing, soaring up above me so high that I could not make out his form in the gray morning light. I listened for some time, and the music never ceased for a moment, coming down clear, sweet, and tender from the air above. Soon the strains of another answered from a little distance off, and the two kept soaring and singing as long as I stayed to listen; and when I walked away I could still hear their notes behind me. In some ways the sky- lark is the sweetest singer we have; only certain of the thrushes rival it, but though the songs of the latter have perhaps even more melody, they are far from being as uninter- rupted and well sustained, being rather a succession of broken bursts of music. The sun was just appearing when I walked back to the creek bottom. Coming slowly out of a patch of brush-wood, was 60 HUNTING TRIPS a doe, going down to drink; her great, sensi- tive ears thrown forward as she peered anxiously and timidly round. She was very watchful, lifting her headyand gazing about between every few mouthfuls. When she had drunk her fill she snatched a hasty mouthful or two of the wet grass, and then cantered back to the edge of the brush, when a little spotted fawn came out and joined her. The two stood together for a few moments, and then walked off into the cover. The little pond at which they had drunk was within fifty yards of my night bed; and it had other tenants in the shape of a mallard duck, with a brood of little ducklings, balls of fuzzy yellow down, that bobbed off into the reeds like little corks as I walked by. Breaking camp is a simple operation for one man; and but a few minutes after break- fast Manitou and I were off; the embers of the fire having been extinguished with the care that comes to be almost second nature with the cattle-man, one of whose chief dreads is the prairie fire, that sometimes robs ON THE PRAIRIE ey his stock of such an immense amount of feed. Very little game was seen during-the morn- ing, as I rode in an almost straight line over the hot, parched plains, the ground cracked and seamed by the heat, and the dull brown blades bending over as if the sun was too much even for them. The sweat drenched the horse even when we were walking; and long before noon we halted for rest by a bit- ter alkaline pool with border so steep and rotten that I had to bring water up to the horse in my hat; having taken some along in a canteen for my own use. But there was a steep bank near, overgrown with young trees, and thus giving good shade; and it was this that induced me to stop. When leaving this halting-place, I spied three figures in the distance, loping towards me; they turned out to be cowboys, who had been out a couple of days looking up a band of strayed ponies, and as they had exhausted their supply of food, I gave them the antelope hams, trust- ing to shoot another for my own use. Nor was I disappointed. After leaving 62 HUNTING TRIPS the cowboys I headed the horse towards the more rolling country where the prairies be- gin to break off into the edges of the Bad Lands. Several bands of antelope were seen, and I tried one unsuccessful stalk, not be- ing able to come within rifle range; but to- wards evening, when only about a mile from a wooded creek on whose banks I intended to sleep, I came across a solitary buck, just as I was topping the ridge of the last divide. As I was keeping a sharp lookout at the time, I reined in the horse the instant the head of the antelope came in sight, and jumping off crept up till I could see his whole body, when I dropped on my knee and took steady aim. He was a long way off (three hundred yards by actual pacing), and not having made out exactly what we were he stood still, looking intently in our direction and broad- side to us. I held well over his shoulder, and at the report he dropped like a shot, the ball having broken his neck. It was a very good shot; the’ best I ever made at antelope, of which game, as already said, I have killed ON. THE PRAIRIE 63 but very few individuals. Taking the hams and saddle I rode on down to the creek and again went into camp among timber. Thus on this trip I was never successful in outwit- ting antelope on the several occasions when I pitted my craft and skill against their wari- ness and keen senses, always either failing to get within range or else missing them; but nevertheless I got two by taking advantage of the stupidity and curiosity which they oc- casionally show. The middle part of the days having proved so very hot, and as my store of biscuits was nearly gone, and as I knew, moreover, that the antelope meat would not keep over twenty-four hours, I decided to push back home next day; and accordingly I broke camp at the first streak of dawn, and took Manitou back to the ranch at a smart lope. A solitary trip such as this was, through a comparatively wild region in which game is still plentiful, always has great attraction for any man who cares for sport and for nature, and who is able to be his own com- 64 HUNTING TRIPS panion, but the pleasure after all depends a good deal on the weather. To be sure, after a little experience in roughing it, the hardships seem a good deal less formidable than they formerly did, and a man becomes able to roll up in a wet blanket and sleep all night in a pelting rain without hurting himself—though he will shiver a good deal, and feel pretty numb and stiff in those chill and dreary hours just before dawn. But when a man’s clothes and bedding and rifle are all wet, no matter. how philosophically he may bear it, it may be taken for granted that he does not enjoy it. So fair weather is a very vital and important element among those that go to make up the pleasure and success of such a trip. Luckily fair weather can be counted on with a good deal of cer- tainty in late spring and throughout most of the summer and fall o1. the northern cattle plains. The storms that do take place, though very violent, do not last long. Every now and then, however, there will be in the fall a three-days’ storm in which it ON THE PRAIRIE 65 is almost impossible to travel, and then the best thing to be done is to lie up under any shelter that is at hand until it blows over. I remember one such camp which was made in the midst of the most singular and pic- turesque surroundings. It was toward the end of a long wagon trip that we had been taking, and all of the horses were tired by incessant work. We had come through coun- try which was entirely new to us, passing nearly all day in a long flat prairie through which flowed a stream that we supposed to be either the Box Alder or the Little Beaver. In leaving this we had struck some heavy sand-hills, and while pulling the loaded wagon up them one of the team played out completely, and we had to take her out and put in one of the spare saddle-ponies, a tough little fellow. Night came on fast, and the sun was just setting when we crossed the final ridge and came in sight of as singular a bit of country as I have ever seen. The cowboys, as we afterward found, had chris- tened the place “ Medicine Buttes.” In 66 HUNTING TRIPS plains dialect, I may explain, ‘“ Medicine” has been adopted fron the Indians, among whom it means any thing supernatural or very unusual. It is used in the sense of “magic,” or “ out of the common.” Over an irregular tract of gently rolling sandy hills, perhaps about three quarters of a mile square, were scattered several hun- dred detached and isolated buttes or cliffs of sandstone, each butte from fifteen to fifty feet high, and from thirty to a couple of hundred feet across. Some of them rose as sharp peaks or ridges, or as connected chains, but much the greater number had flat tops like little table-lands. The sides were perfectly perpendicular, and were cut and channelled by the weather into the most ex- traordinary forms; caves, columns, battle- ments, spires, and flying buttresses were mingled in the strangest confusion. Many of the caves were worn clear through the buttes, and they were at every height in the sides, while ledges ran across the faces, and shoulders and columns jutted out from the ON THE PRAIRIE 67 corners. On the tops and at the bases of most of the cliffs grew pine trees, some of considerable height, and the sand gave every thing a clean, white look. Altogether it was as fantastically beauti- ful a place as I have ever seen: it seemed impossible that the hand of man should not have had something to do with its formation. There was a spring of clear cold water a few hundred yards off, with good feed for the horses round it; and we made our camp at the foot of one of the largest buttes, build- ing a roaring pine-log fire in an angle in the face of the cliff, while our beds were under the pine trees. It was the time of the full moon, and the early part of the night was clear. The flame of the fire leaped up the side of the cliff, the red light bringing out into lurid and ghastly relief the bold corners and strange-looking escarpments of the rock, while against it the stiff limbs of the pines stood out like rigid bars of iron. Walking off out of sight of the circle of fire light, among the tall crags, the place seemed al- 68 HUNTING TRIPS most as unreal as if we had been in fairy- land. The flood of clear moonlight turned the white faces of the cliffs and the grounds between them into shining silver, against which the pines showed dark and sombre, while the intensely black shadows of the buttes took on forms that were grimly fan- tastic. Every cave or cranny in the crags looked so black that it seemed almost to be thrown out from the surface, and when the branches of the trees moved, the bright moonlight danced on the ground as if it were a sheet of molten metal. Neither in shape nor in color did our surroundings seem to belong to the dull gray world through which we had been travelling all day. But by next morning every thing had changed. A furious gale of wind was blow- ing, and we were shrouded in a dense, driz- zling mist, through which at times the rain drove in level sheets. Now and then the fog would blow away,.and then would come on thicker than ever ; and when it began to clear off a steady rain took its place, and the wind ON THE PRAIRIE 69 increased to a regular hurricane. With its canvas top on, the wagon would certainly have been blown over if on open ground, and it was impossible to start or keep a fire ex- cept under the sheltered lee of the cliff. Moreover, the wind kept shifting, and we had to shift too, as fast as ever it started to blow from a new quarter; and thus in the course of the twenty-four hours we made a complete circle of the cliff at whose base we were. Our blankets got wet during the night ; and they got no drier during the day ; and the second night, as we slept on them they got steadily damper. Our provisions were pretty nearly out, and so, with little to eat and less to do, wet and uncomfortable, we cowered over the sputtering fire, and _whiled the long day away as best we might with our own thoughts; fortunately we had all learned that no matter how bad things are, grumbling and bad temper can always be depended upon to make them worse, and so bore our ill-fortune, if not with stoical in- difference, at least in perfect quiet. Next 70 HUNTING TRIPS day the storm still continued, but the fog was gone and the wind somewhat easier; and we spent the whole day looking up the horses, which had drifted a long distance be- fore the storm; nor was it till the morning of the third day that we left our beautiful but, as events had made it, uncomfortable camping-ground. In midsummer the storms are rarely of long duration, but are very severe while they last. I remember well one day when I was caught in such a storm. I had gone some twenty-five miles from the ranch to see the round-up, which had reached what is known as the Oxbow of the Little Missouri, where the river makes a great loop round a flat grassy bottom, on which the cattle herd was gathered. I stayed, seeing the cattle cut out and the calves branded, until after dinner ; for it was at the time of the year when the days were longest. | At last the work was ended, and I started home in the twilight. The horse splashed across the shallow ford, and then spent half ON THE PRAIRIE a an hour in climbing up through the rugged side hills, till we reached the top of the first great plateau that had to be crossed. As soon as I got on it I put in the spurs and started off at a gallop. In the dusk the brown level land stretched out in formless expanse ahead of me, unrelieved, except by the bleached white of a buffalo’s skull, whose outlines glimmered indistinctly to one side of the course I was riding. On my left the sun had set behind a row of jagged buttes, that loomed up in sharp relief against the western sky; above them it had left a bar of yellow light, which only made more in- tense the darkness of the surrounding heav- ens. In the quarter towards which I was heading there had gathered a lowering mass of black storm-clouds, lit up by the inces- sant play of the lightning. The wind had totally died away, and the death-like stillness was only broken by the continuous, meas- ured beat of the horse’s hoofs as he galloped over the plain, and at times by the muttered roll-of the distant thunder. 72 HUNTING TRIPS Without slacking pace I crossed the plateau, and as I came to the other edge the storm burst in sheets and torrents of water. In five minutes I was drenched through, and to guide myself had to take advantage of the continual flashes of lightning; and I was right glad, half an hour afterward, to stop and take shelter in the log hut of a couple of cowboys, where I could get dry and warm. CHAPTER II A TRIP AFTER MOUNTAIN SHEEP ATE one fall a spell of bitter weather set in, and lasted on through the early part of the winter. For many days together the cold was fierce in its intensity; and the wheels of the ranch-wagon, when we drove out for a load of fire-wood, creaked and sang as they ground through the powdery snow that lay light on the ground. At night in the clear sky the stars seemed to snap and glitter; and for weeks of cloudless white weather the sun shone down on a land from which his beams glanced and glistened as if it had been the surface of a mirror, till the glare hurt the eyes that looked upon it. In the still nights we could hear the trees crack and jar from the strain of the biting frost; 73 74 HUNTING TRIPS and in its winding bed the river lay fixed like a huge bent bar of blue steel. We had been told that a small band of big- horn was hanging around some very steep and broken country about twenty-five miles from the ranch-house. I had been out after them once alone, but had failed to find even their tracks, and had made up my mind that in order to hunt them it would be neces- sary to make a three- or four-days’ trip, taking along the buck-board with our bed- ding and eatables. The trip had been de- layed owing to two of my men, who had been sent out to buy ponies, coming in with a bunch of fifty, for the most part hardly broken. Some of them were meant for the use of the lower ranch, and the men from the latter had come up to get them. At night the ponies were let loose, and each day were gathered into the horse corral and broken as well as we could break them in such weather. It was my intention not to start on the hunt until the ponies were separated into the two bands, and the men from the lower ranch ON THE PRAIRIE 15 (theElkhorn) had gone off with theirs. Then one of the cowboys was to take the buck- board up to a deserted hunter’s hut, which lay on a great bend of the river near by the ground over which the big-horn were said to wander, while my foreman, Merrifield, and myself would take saddle-horses, and each day ride to the country through which we intended to hunt, returning at night to the buck-board and hut. But we started a little sooner than we had intended, owing to a funny mistake made by one of the cowboys. The sun did not rise until nearly eight, but each morning we breakfasted at five, and the men were then sent out on the horses which had been kept in overnight, to find and drive home the pony band; of course they started in perfect darkness, except for the starlight. On the last day of our pro- posed stay the men had come in with the ponies before sunrise; and, leaving the lat- ter in the corral, they entered the house and crowded round the fire, stamping and beat- ing their numbed hands together. In the 76 HUNTING TRIPS midst of the confusion word was brought by one of the cowboys, that while hunting for the horses he had seen two bears go down into a wash-out; and he told us that he could bring us right to the place where he had seen them, for as soon as he left it he had come in at speed on his swift, iron-gray horse—a vicious, clean-limbed devil, with muscles like bundles of tense wire; the cold had made the brute savage, and it had been punished with the cruel curb bit until long, bloody icicles hung from its lips. At once Merrifield and I mounted in hot haste and rode off with the bringer of good tidings, leaving hasty instructions where we were to be joined by the buck-board. The sun was still just below the horizon as we started, wrapped warmly in our fur coats and with our caps drawn down over our ears to keep out the cold. The cattle were stand- ing in the thickets and sheltered ravines, huddled together with their heads down, the frost lying on their backs and the icicles hanging from their muzzles; they stared at ON THE PRAIRIE 17 us as we rode along, but were too cold to move a hand’s breadth out of our way; in- deed it is a marvel how they survive the winter at all. Our course at first lay up a long valley, cut up by cattle trails; then we came out, just as the sun had risen, upon the rounded, gently-sloping highlands, thickly clad with the short, nutritious grass, which curls on the stalk into good hay, and on which the cattle feed during winter. We galloped rapidly over the hills, our blood gradually warming up from the motion; and soon came to the long wash-out, cutting down like a miniature canyon for a space of two or three miles through the bottom of a valley, into which the cowboy said he had seen the bears go. One of us took one side and one the other, and we rode along up wind, but neither the bears nor any traces of them could we see; at last, half a mile ahead of us, two dark objects suddenly emerged from the wash-out, and came out on the plain. For a second we thought they were the quarry ; then we saw that they were 73 HUNTING TRIPS merely a couple of dark-colored ponies. The cowboy’s chapfallen face was a study ; he had seen, in the dim light, the two ponies going down with their heads held near the ground, and had mistaken them for bears (by no means the unnatural mistake that it seems; I have known an experienced hunter fire twice at a black calf in the late evening, thinking it was a bear). He knew only too well the merciless chaff to which he would be henceforth exposed ; and a foretaste of which he at once received from my companion. The ponies had strayed from the main herd, and the cowboy was sent back to drive them to the home corral, while Merrifield and my- self continued our hunt. We had all day before us, and but twenty miles or so to cover before reaching the hut where the buck-board was to meet us; but | the course we intended to take was through country so rough that no Eastern horse could cross it, and even the hardy Western hunt- ing-ponies, who climb like goats, would have difficulty in keeping their feet. Our route ON THE PRAIRIE 79 lay through the heart of the Bad Lands, but of course the country was not equally rough in all parts. There were tracts of varying size, each covered with a tangled mass of chains and peaks, the buttes in places reach- ing a height that would in the East entitle them to be called mountains. Every such tract was riven in all directions by deep chasms and narrow ravines, whose sides sometimes rolled off in gentle slopes, but far more often rose as sheer cliffs, with nar- row ledges along their fronts. A sparse growth of grass covered certain portions of these lands, and on some of the steep hill- sides, or in the canyons were scanty groves of coniferous evergreens, so stunted by the thin soil and bleak weather that many of them were bushes rather than trees. Most of the peaks and ridges, and many of the val- leys, were entirely bare of vegetation, and these had been cut by wind and water into the strangest and most fantastic shapes. In- deed it is difficult, in looking at such forma- tions, to get rid of the feeling that their 80 HUNTING TRIPS curiousiy twisted and contorted forms are due to some vast volcanic upheavals or other subterranean forces; yet they are merely caused by the action of the various weather- ing forces of the dry climate on the different strata of sandstones, clays, and marls. Iso- lated columns shoot up into the air, bear- ing on their summits flat rocks like tables; square buttes tower high above surrounding depressions, which are so cut up by twisting gullies and low ridges as to be almost im- passable; shelving masses of sandstone jut out over the sides of the cliffs; some of the ridges, with perfectly perpendicular sides, are sO worn away that they stand up like gigantic knife blades; and gulches, wash- outs, and canyons dig out the sides of each butte, while between them are thrust out long spurs, with sharp ragged tops. All such patches of barren, broken ground, where the feed seems too scant to support any large ani- mal, are the favorite haunts of the big-horn, though it also wanders far into the some- ON THE PRAIRIE 81 what gentler and more fertile, but still very rugged, domain of the black-tail deer. Between all such masses of rough country lay wide, grassy plateaus or long stretches of bare plain, covered with pebbly shingle. We loped across all these open places; and when we came to a reach of broken country would leave our horses and hunt through it on foot. Except where the wind had blown it off, there was a thin coat of snow over every thing, and the icy edges and sides of the cliffs gave only slippery and uncertain foothold, so as to render the climbing doubly toilsome. Hunting the big-horn is at all times the hardest and most difficult kind of sport, and is equally trying to both wind and muscle; and for that very reason the big-horn ranks highest among all the species of game that are killed by still-hunting, and its chase constitutes the noblest form of sport with the rifle, always excepting, of course, those kinds of hunting where the quarry is itself dangerous to attack. Climb- 82 HUNTING TRIPS ing kept us warm in spite of the bitter weather; we only wore our fur coats and shaps while on horseback, leaving them where we left the horses, and doing our still- hunting in buckskin shirts, fur caps, and stout shoes. Big-horn, more commonly known as mountain sheep, are extremely wary and cautious animals, and are plentiful in but few places. This is rather surprising, for they seem to be fairly prolific (although not as much so as deer and antelope), and com- paratively few are killed by the hunters; in- deed, much fewer are shot than of any other kind of western game in proportion to their numbers. They hold out in a place long after the elk and buffalo have been exter- minated, and for many years aiter both of these have become things of the past the big- horn will still exist to afford sport to the man who is a hardy mountaineer and skilful with the rifle. For it is the only kind of game on whose haunts cattle do not tres- pass. Good buffalo or elk pasture is sure ON THE PRAIRIE 83 to be also good pasture for steers and cows; and in summer the herds of the ranchman wander far into the prairies of the antelope, while in winter their chosen and favorite re- sorts are those of which the black-tail is equally fond. Thus, the cattle-men are al- most as much foes of these kinds of game as are the hunters, but neither cattle nor cow- boys penetrate into the sterile and rocky * wastes where the big-horn is found. And it is too wary game, and the labor of following it is too great, for it ever to be much perse- cuted by the skin or market hunters. In size the big-horn comes next to buffalo and elk, averaging larger than the black- tail deer, while an old ram will sometimes be almost as heavy as a small cow elk. In his movements he is not light and graceful like the prong-horn and other antelopes, his mar- vellous agility seeming rather to proceed from sturdy strength and wonderful com- mand over iron sinews and muscles. The huge horns are carried proudly erect by the massive neck; every motion of the body is 84 HUNTING TRIPS made with perfect poise; and there seems to be no ground so difficult that the big-horn cannot cross it. There is probably no animal in the world his superior in climbing ; and his only equals are the other species of mountain sheep and the ibexes. No matter how sheer the cliff, if there are ever so tiny cracks or breaks in the surface, the big-horn will bound up or down it with wonderful ease and seeming absence of effort. The perpen-” dicular bounds it can make are truly startling —in strong contrast with its distant relative the prong-horn which can leap almost any level jump but seems unable to clear the smallest height. In descending a sheer wall of rock the big-horn holds all four feet to- gether and goes down in long jumps, bound- ing off the surface almost like a rubber ball every time he strikes it. The way that one will vanish over the roughest and most bro- ken ground is a perpetual surprise to any one that has hunted them; and the ewes are quite as skilful as the rams, while even the very young lambs seem almost as well able ON THE PRAIRIE 85 to climb, and certainly follow wherever their elders lead. Time and again one will rush over a cliff to what appears certain death, and will gallop away from the bottom un- harmed. Their perfect self-confidence seems to be justified, however, for they never slip or make a misstep, even on the narrowest ledges when covered with ice and snow. And all their marvellous jumping and climbing is done with an apparent ease that renders it the more wonderful. Rapid though the movements of one are they are made without any of the nervous hurry so characteristic of the antelopes and smaller deer ; the on-looker is really as much impressed with the animal’s sinewy power and self-command as with his agility. His strength and his self-reliance seem to fit him above all other kinds of game to battle with the elements and with his brute foes; he does not care to have the rough ways of his life made smooth; were his choice free his abode would still be the vast and lonely wilderness in which he is found. To him the barren wastes of the Bad Lands 86 HUNTING TRIPS offer a most attractive home; yet to other living creatures they are at all times as grimly desolate and forbidding as any spot -on earth can be; at all seasons they seem hostile to every form of life. In the raging heat of summer the dry earth cracks and crumbles, and the sultry, lifeless air sways and trembles as if above a furnace. Through the high, clear atmosphere, the intense sun- light casts unnaturally deep shadows; and where there are no shadows, brings out in glaring relief the weird, fantastic shapes and bizarre coloring of the buttes. In winter snow and ice coat the thin crests and sharp sides of the cliffs, and increase their look of savage wildness; the cold turns the ground into ringing iron; and the icy blasts sweep ‘through the clefts and over the ridges with an angry fury even more terrible than is the intense, death-like, silent heat of midsummer. But the mountain ram is alike proudly indif- ferent to the hottest summer sun and to the wildest winter storm. The lambs are brought forth late in May ON THE PRAIRIE 87 or early in June. Like the antelope, the dam soon leads her kids to join the herd, which may range in size from a dozen to four or five times as many individuals, generally ap- proaching nearer the former number. The ewes, lambs, and yearling or two-year-old rams go together. The young but full- grown rams keep in small parties of three or four, while the old fellows, with mon- strous heads, keep by themselves, except when they join the ewes in the rutting sea- son. At this time they wage savage war with each other. The horns of the old rams are always battered and scarred from these butting contests—which appearance, by the way, has given rise to the ridiculous idea that they were in the habit of jumping over precipices and landing on their heads. Occasionally the big-horn come down into the valleys or along the grassy slopes to feed, but this is not often, and in such cases every member of the band is always keeping the sharpest look-out, and at the slightest alarm they beat a retreat to their broken fast- 838 HUNTING TRIPS nesses. At night-time or in the early morn- ing they come down to drink at the small pools or springs, but move off the instant they have satisfied their thirst. As a rule, they spend their time among the rocks and rough ground, and it is in these places that they must be hunted. They cover a good deal of ground when feeding, for the feed is scanty in their haunts, and they walk quite rapidly along the ledges or peaks, by preference high up, as they graze or browse. When through feeding they always choose as a resting-place some point from which they can command a view over all the sur- - rounding territory. An old ram is peculiarly wary. The crest of a ridge or the top of a peak is a favorite resting-bed ; but even more often they choose some ledge, high up, but just below the crest, or lie on a shelf of rock that juts out from where a ridge ends, and thus enables them to view the country on three sides of them. In color they harmonize curiously with the grayish or yellowish brown of the ground on which they are ON THE PRAIRIE 89 found, and it is often very difficult to make them out when lying motionless on a ledge of rock. Time and again they will be mis- taken for boulders, and, on the other hand, I have more than once stalked up to masses of sandstone that I have mistaken for sheep. When lying down the big-horn can thus scan every thing below it; and both while feeding and resting it invariably keeps the sharpest possible look-out for all danger from beneath, and this trait makes it need- ful for the hunter to always keep on the high- est ground and try to come on it from above. For protection-against danger it relies on ears, eyes, and nose alike. The slightest sound startles it and puts it on its guard, while if it sees or smells any thing which it deems may bode danger it is off like a flash. It is as wary and quick-sighted as the ante- lope, and its senses are as keen as are those of the elk, while it is not afflicted by the oc- casional stupidity nor heedless recklessness of these two animals, nor by the intense curi- osity of the black-tail, and it has all the 90 HUNTING TRIPS white-tail’s sound common-sense, coupled with a much shyer nature and much sharper faculties, so that it is more difficult to kill than are any of these creatures. And the climbing is rendered all the more tiresome by the traits above spoken of, which make it necessary for the hunter to keep above it. The first thing to do is to clamber up to the top of a ridge, and after that to keep on the highest crests. At all times, and with all game, the still- hunter should be quiet, and should observe caution, but when after mountain sheep he must be absolutely noiseless and must not neglect a single chance. He must be careful not to step on a loose stone or to start any crumbling earth; he must always hunt up or across wind, and he must take advantage of every crag or boulder to shelter himself from the gaze of his watchful quarry. While keeping up as high as possible, he should not go on the very summit, as that brings him out in too sharp relief against the sky. And all the while he will be crossing land where ON THE PRAIRIE gt he will need to pay good heed to his own footing or else run the risk of breaking his neck. As far as lay in us, on our first day’s hunt we paid proper heed to all the rules of hunt- ing-craft ; but without success. Up the slip- pery, ice-covered buttes we clambered, cling- ing to the rocks, and slowly working our way across the faces of the cliffs, or cau- tiously creeping along the narrow ledges, peering over every crest long and carefully, and from the peaks scanning the ground all about with the field-glasses. But we saw no sheep, and but little sign of them. Still we did see some sign, and lost a shot, either through bad luck or bad management. This was while going through a cluster of broken buttes, whose peaks rose up like sharp cones. On reaching the top of one at the leeward end, we worked cautiously up the side, seeing nothing, to the other end, and then down along the middle. When about half-way back we came across the fresh footprints of a ewe or yearling ram in a little patch of 92 HUNTING TRIPS snow. On tracing them back we found that it had been lying down on the other side of a small bluff, within a hundred yards of where we had passed, and must have either got our wind, or else have heard us make some noise. At any rate it had gone off, and though we followed its tracks a little in the snow, they soon got on the bare, frozen ground and we Jost them. | After that we saw nothing. The cold, as the day wore on, seemed gradually to chill us through and through; our hands and feet became numb, and our ears tingled under our fur caps. We hunted carefully through two or three masses of jagged buttes which seemed most likely places for the game we were after, taking a couple of hours to each place; and then, as the afternoon was begin- ning to wane, mounted our shivering horses for good, and pushed toward the bend of the river where we were to meet the buck-board. Our course lay across a succession of bleak, wind-swept plateaus, broken by deep and narrow pine-clad gorges. We _ galloped ON THE PRAIRIE 93 swiftly over the plateaus, where the footing was good and the going easy, for the gales had driven the feathery snow off the with- ered brown grass; but getting on and off these table-lands was often a real labor, their sides were so sheer. The horses plunged and scrambled after us as we led them up; while in descending they would sit back on their haunches and half-walk, half-slide, down the steep inclines. Indeed, one or two of the latter were so very straight that the horses would not face them, and we had to turn them round and back them over the edge, and then all go down with a rush. At any rate it warmed our blood to keep out of the way of the hoofs. On one of the plateaus I got a very long shot at a black-tail, which I missed. Finally we struck the head of a long, winding valley with a smooth bottom, and after cantering down it four or five miles, came to the river, just after the coid, pale- red sun had sunk behind the line of hills ahead of us. Our horses were sharp shod, 94 HUNTING TRIPS and crossed the ice without difficulty; and in a grove of leafless cotton-woods, on the op- posite side, we found the hut for which we had been making, the cowboy already inside with the fire started. Throughout the night the temperature sank lower and lower, and it was impossible to keep the crazy old hut anywhere near freezing-point; the wind whistled through the chinks and crannies of the logs, and, after a short and by no means elaborate supper, we were glad to cower down with our great fur coats still on, under the pile of buffalo robes and bear skins. My sleeping-bag came in very handily, and kept me as warm as possible, in spite of the bitter frost. We were up and had taken breakfast next morning by the time the first streak of dawn had dimmed the brilliancy of the stars, and immediately afterwards strode off on foot, as we had been hampered by the horses on the day before. We walked briskly across the plain until, by the time it was light enough to see to shoot, we came to the foot ON THE PRAIRIE 95 of a great hill, known as Middle Butte, a huge, isolated mass of rock, several miles in length, and with high sides, very steep to- wards the nearly level summit; it would be deemed a mountain of no inconsiderable size in the East. We hunted carefully through the outlying foothills and projecting spurs around its base, without result, finding but a few tracks, and those very old ones, and then toiled up to the top, which, though nar- row in parts, in others widened out into plateaus half a mile square. Having made a complete circuit of the top, peering over the edge and closely examining the flanks of the butte with the field-glass, without having seen any thing, we slid down the other side and took off through a streak of very rugged but low country. This day, though the weather had grown even colder, we did not feel it, for we walked all the while with a quick pace, and the climbing was very hard work. The shoulders and ledges of the cliffs had become round and slippery with the ice, and it was no easy task to move up and 96 HUNTING TRIPS along them, clutching the gun in one hand, and grasping each little projection with the other. Climbing through the Bad Lands is just like any other kind of mountaineering, except that the precipices and chasms are much lower; but this really makes very lit- tle difference when the ground is frozen as solid as iron, for it would be almost as un- pleasant to fall fifty feet as to fall two hundred, and the result to the person who tried it would be very much the same in each case. Hunting for a day or two without finding game where the work is severe and toilsome, is a good test of the sportsman’s staying qualities ; the man who at the end of the time is proceeding with as much caution and de- termination as at the beginning, has got the right stuff in him. On this day I got rather tired, and committed one of the blunders of which no hunter ought ever to be guilty; that is, I fired at small game while on ground where I might expect large. We had seen two or three jack-rabbits scudding off like ON THE PRAIRIE 97 noiseless white shadows, and finally came upon some sharp-tail prairie fowl in a hol-, low. One was quite near me, perched on a bush, and with its neck stretched up offered a beautiful mark; I could not resist it, so knelt and fired. At the report of the rifle (it was a miss, by the by) a head suddenly appeared over a ridge some six hundred yards in front—too far off for us to make out what kind of animal it belonged to,—looked fixedly at us, and then disappeared. We feared it might be a mountain sheep, and that my unlucky shot had deprived us of the chance of a try at it; but on hurrying up to the place where it had been we were re- lieved to find that the tracks were only those of a black-tail. After this lesson we proceeded in silence, making a long circle through the roughest kind of country. When on the way back to camp, where the buttes rose highest and steepest, we came upon fresh tracks, but as it was then late in the afternoon, did not try to follow them that day. When near the hut I killed a sharp- 98 HUNTING TRIPS tail for supper, making rather a neat shot, the bird being eighty yards off. The night was even colder than the preceding one, and all signs told us that we would soon have a change for the worse in the weather, which made me doubly anxious to get a sheep be- fore the storm struck us. We determined that next morning we would take the horses and make a quick push for the chain of high buttes where we had seen the fresh tracks, and hunt them through with thorough care. We started in the cold gray of the next morning and pricked rapidiy off over the frozen plain, columns of white steam rising from the nostrils of the galloping horses. When we reached the foot of the hills where we intended to hunt, and had tethered the horses, the sun had already risen, but it was evident that the clear weather of a fortnight past was over. The air was thick and hazy, and away off in the northwest a towering mass of grayish white clouds looked like a weather-breeder ; every thing boded a storm at no distant date. The country over which ON THE PRAIRIE 99 we now hunted was wilder and more moun- tainous than any we had yet struck. High, sharp peaks and ridges broke off abruptly into narrow gorges and deep ravines; they were bare of all but the scantiest vegeta- tion, save on some of the sheltered sides where grew groves of dark pines, now laden down with feathery snow. The climbing was as hard as ever. At first we went straight up the side of the tallest peak, and then along the knife-like ridge which joined it with the next. The ice made the footing very slippery as we stepped along the ledges or crawled round the jutting shoul- ders, and we had to look carefully for our footholds; while in the cold, thin air every quick burst we made up a steep hill caused us to pant for breath. We had gone but a little way before we saw fresh signs of the animals we were after, but it was some time before we came upon the quarry itself. We left the high ground and descending into a narrow chasm walked along its bot- tom, which was but a couple of feet wide, ' nF a Lor ¥ 100O HUNTING TRIPS while the sides rose up from it at an acute angle. After following this for a few hun- dred yards, we turned a sharp corner, and shortly afterward our eyes were caught by some grains of fresh earth lying on the snow in front of our feet. On the sides, some feet above our heads, were marks in the snow which a moment’s glance showed us had been made by a couple of mountain sheep that had come down one side of the gorge and had leaped across to the other, their sharp toes going through the thin snow and displacing the earth that had fallen to the bottom. The tracks had evidently been made just before we rounded the corner, and as we had been advancing noiselessly on the snow with the wind in our favor, we knew that the animals could have no sus- picion of our presence. They had gone up the cliff on our right, but as that on our left was much lower, and running for some dis- tance parallel to the other, we concluded that by running along its top we would be most certain to get a good shot. Clambering in- ON THE PRAIRIE IOI stantly up the steep side, digging my hands and feet into the loose snow, and grasping at every little rock or frozen projection, I reached the top; and then ran forward along the ridge a few paces, crouching be- hind the masses of queerly-shaped sandstone ; and saw, about ninety yards off across the ravine, a couple of mountain rams. The one with the largest horns was broadside to- ward me, his sturdy, massive form outlined clearly against the sky, as he stood on the crest of the ridge. I dropped on my knee, raising the rifle as I did so; for a second he did not quite make me out, turning his head half round to look. I held the sight fairly on the point just behind his shoulder and pulled the trigger. At the report he stag- gered and pitched forward, but recovered himself and crossed over the ridge out of sight. We jumped and slid down into the ravine again, and clambered up the opposite side as fast as our lungs and the slippery ice would let us; then taking the trail of the wounded ram we trotted along it. We had 102 HUNTING TRIPS not far to go; for, as I expected, we found him lying on his side a couple of hundred yards beyond the ridge, his eyes already glazed in death. The bullet had gone in be- hind the shoulder and ranged clean through his body crosswise, going a little forward ; no animal less tough than a mountain ram could have gone any distance at all with such a wound. He had most obligingly run round to a part of the hill where we could bring up one of the horses without very much dif- ficulty. Accordingly I brought up old Man- itou, who can carry any thing and has no fear, and the big-horn was soon strapped across his back. It was a fine ram, with per- fectly-shaped but not very large horns. The other ram, two years old, with small horns, had bounded over the ridge before I could get a shot at him; we followed his trail for half a mile, but as he showed no signs of halting, and we were anxious to get home we then gave up the pursuit. It was still early in the day, and we made ON THE PRAIRIE 103 up our minds to push back for the home ranch, as we did not wish to be caught out in a long storm. The lowering sky was al- ready overcast by a mass of leaden-gray clouds; and it was evident that we had no time to lose. Ina little over an hour we were back at the log camp, where the ram was shifted from Manitou’s back to the buck- board. A very few minutes sufficed to pack up our bedding and provisions, and we started home. Merrifield and I rode on ahead, not sparing the horses; but before we got home the storm had burst, and a furi- ous blizzard blew in our teeth as we gal- loped along the last mile of the river bottom, before coming to the home ranch house; and /as we warmed our stiffened limbs before the log fire, I congratulated myself upon the successful outcome of what I knew would be the last hunting trip I should take during that season. The death of this ram was accomplished without calling for any very good shooting 104 HUNTING TRIPS on our part. He was standing still, less than a hundred yards off, when the shot was fired ; and we came across him so close merely by accident. Still, we fairly deserved our luck, for we had hunted with the most patient and painstaking care from dawn till nightfall for the better part of three days, spending most of the time in climbing at a smart rate of speed up sheer cliffs and over rough and slippery ground. Still-hunting the big-horn is always a toilsome and laborious task, and the very bitter weather during which we had been out had not lessened the difficulty of the work, though in the cold it was much less exhausting than it would have been to have hunted across the same ground in sum- mer. No other kind of hunting does as much to bring out the good qualities, both moral and physical, of the sportsmen who follow it. Ifa man keeps at it, it is bound to make him both hardy and resolute; to strengthen his muscles and fill out his lungs. Mountain mutton is in the fall the most ON THE PRAIRIE 105 delicious eating furnished by any game ani- mal. Nothing else compares with it for juici- ness, tenderness, and flavor; but at all other times of the year it is tough, stringy, and worthless, CHAPTER III THE LORDLY BUFFALO ONE forever are the mighty herds of the lordly buffalo. A few solitary individuals and small bands are still to be found scattered here and there in the wilder parts of the plains; and though most of these will be very soon destroyed, others will for some years fight off their doom and lead a precarious existence either in remote and almost desert portions of the country near the Mexican frontier, or else in the wildest and most inaccessible fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains; but the great herds, that for the first three quarters of this cen- tury formed the distinguishing and charac- teristic feature of the Western plains, have vanished forever. It is only about a hundred years ago that 106 ON THE PRAIRIE 107 the white man, in his march westward, first encroached upon the lands of the buffalo, for these animals had never penetrated in any number to the Appalachian chain of mountains. Indeed, it was after the begin- ning of the century before the inroads of the whites upon them grew at all serious. Then, though constantly driven westward, the diminution in their territory, if sure, was at least slow, although growing progressively more rapid. Less than a score of years ago the great herds, containing many millions of individuals, ranged over a vast expanse of country that stretched in an unbroken line from near Mexico to far into British Amer- ica; in fact, over almost all the plains that are now known as the cattle region. But since that time their destruction has gone on with appalling rapidity and thoroughness ; and the main factors in bringing it about have been the railroads, which carried hordes of hunters into the land and gave them means to transport their spoils to market. Not quite twenty years since, the 108 HUNTING TRIPS range was broken in two, and the buffalo herds in the middle slaughtered or thrust aside; and thus there resulted two ranges, the northern and the southern. The latter was the larger, but being more open to the hunters, was the sooner to be depopulated; and the last of the great southern herds was destroyed in 1878, though scattered bands escaped and wandered into the desolate wastes to the southwest. Meanwhile equal- ly savage war was waged on the northern herds, and five years later the last of these was also destroyed or broken up. The bulk of this slaughter was done in the dozen years from 1872 to 1883; never before in all his- tory were so many large wild animals of one species slain in so short a space of time. The extermination of the buffalo has been a veritable tragedy of the animal world. Other races of animals have been destroyed within historic times, but these have been species of small size, local distribution, and limited numbers, usually found in some par- ticular island or group of islands; while the ON THE PRAIRIE 109 huge buffalo, in countless myriads, ranged over the greater part of a continent. Its nearest relative, the Old World aurochs, formerly found all through the forests of Europe, is almost as near the verge of ex- tinction, but with the latter the process has been slow, and has extended over a period of a thousand years, instead of being com- pressed into a dozen. The destruction of the various larger species of South African game is much more local, and is proceeding at a much slower rate. It may truthfully be said that the sudden and complete extermi- nation of the vast herds of the buffalo is without a parallel in historic times. No sight is more common on the plains than that of a: bleached buffalo skull; and their countless numbers attest the abund- ance of the animal at a time not so very long past. On those portions where the herds made their last stand, the carcasses, dried in the clear, high air, or the mouldering skeletons, abound. Last year, in crossing the country around the heads of the Big IIo HUNTING TRIPS Sandy, O’Fallon Creek, Little Beaver, and Box Alder, these skeletons or dried car- casses were in sight from every hillock, often lying over the ground so thickly that several score could be seen at once. A ranchman who at the same time had made a journey of a thousand miles across Northern Montana, along the Milk River, told me that, to use his own expression, during the whole distance he was never out of sight of a dead buffalo, and never in sight of a live one. Thus, though gone, the traces of the buf- falo are still thick over the land. Their dried dung is found everywhere, and is in many places the only fuel afforded by the plains; their skulls, which last longer than any other part of the animal, are among the most familiar of objects to the plainsman; their bones are in many districts so plentiful that it has become a regular industry, fol- lowed by hundreds of men (christened “bone hunters ” by the frontiersmen), to go out with wagons and collect them in great ON THE PRAIRIE III numbers for the sake of the phosphates they yield; and Bad Lands, plateaus, and prairies alike, are cut up in all directions by the deep ruts which were formerly buffalo trails. These buffalo trails were made by the . herds travelling strung out in single file, and invariably taking the same route each time they passed over the same piece of ground. As a consequence, many of the ruts are worn so deeply into the ground that a horse- man riding along one strikes his stirrups on the earth. In moving through very broken country they are often good guides; for though buffalo can go easily over the rough- est places, they prefer to travel where it is smooth, and have a remarkable knack at finding out the best passage down a steep ravine, over a broken cliff, or along a divide. In a pass, or, as it is called in the West, “draw,” between two feeding grounds, through which the buffalo were fond of go- ing, fifteen or twenty deep trails may be seen ; and often, where the great beasts have travelled in parallel files, two ruts will run 112 HUNTING TRIPS side by side over the prairie for a mile’s length. These old trails are frequently used by the cattle herds at the present time, or are even turned into pony paths by the ranchmen. For many long years after the buffalo die out from a place, their white skulls and well-worn roads remain as melan- choly monuments of their former existence. The rapid and complete extermination of the buffalo affords an excellent instance of how a race, that has thriven and multiplied for ages under conditions of life to which it has slowly fitted itself by a process of nat- ural selection continued for countless gen- erations, may succumb at once when these surrounding conditions are varied by the in- troduction of one or more new elements, im- mediately becoming the chief forces with which it has to contend in the struggle for life. The most striking characteristics of the buffalo, and those which had been found most useful in maintaining the species until the white man entered upon the scene, were its phenomenal gregariousness—surpassed ON THE PRAIRIE 113 by no other four-footed beast, and only equalled, if equalled at all, by one or two kinds of South African antelope,—its mas- sive bulk, and unwieldy strength. The fact that it was a plains and not a forest or mountain animal was at that time also great- ly in its favor. Its toughness and hardy en- durance fitted it to contend with purely nat- ural forces: to resist cold and the winter blasts, or the heat of a thirsty summer, to wander away to new pastures when the feed on the old was exhausted, to plunge over broken ground, and to plough its way through snow-drifts or quagmires. But one beast of prey existed sufficiently powerful to conquer it when full grown and in health; and this, the grizzly bear, could only be con- sidered an occasional foe. The Indians were its most dangerous enemies, but they were without horses, and their weapons, bows and arrows, were only available at close range; so that a slight degree of speed en- abled buffalo to get out of the way of their human foes when discovered, and on the II4 HUNTING TRIPS open plains a moderate development of the senses was sufficient to warn them of the approach of the latter before they had come up to the very close distance required for their primitive weapons to take effect. Thus the strength, size, and gregarious hab- its of the brute were sufficient for a protec- tion against most foes; and a slight degree of speed and moderate development of the senses served as adequate guards against the grizzlies and bow-bearing foot Indians. Concealment and the habit of seeking lonely and remote places for a dwelling would have been of no service. But the introduction of the ‘horse, and shortly afterwards the incoming of white hunters carrying long-range rifles, changed all this. The buffaloes’ gregarious habits simply rendered them certain to be seen, and made it a matter of perfect ease to follow them up; their keeping to the open plains heightened their conspicuousness, while their senses were too dull to discover their foes at such a distance as to nullify the ef- ON THE PRAIRIE 115 fects of the long rifles; their speed was not such as to enable them to flee from a horse- man; and their size and strength merely made them too clumsy either to escape from or to contend with their foes. Add to this the fact that their hides and flesh were valu- able, and it is small wonder that under the new order of things they should have van- ished with such rapidity. The incoming of the cattle-men was an- other cause of the completeness of their de- struction. Wherever there is good feed for a buffalo, there is good feed for a steer or cow; and so the latter have penetrated into all the pastures of the former ; and of course the cowboys follow. A cowboy is not able to kill a deer or antelope unless in exceptional cases, for they are too fleet, too shy, or keep themselves too well hidden. But a buffalo neither tries nor is able to do much in the way of hiding itself; its senses are too dull to give it warning in time; and it is not so swift as a horse, so that a cowboy, riding round in the places where cattle, and there- 116 AUNTING TRIES fore buffalo, are likely to be, is pretty sure to see any of the latter that may be about, and then can easily approach near enough to be able to overtake them when they begin running. The size and value of the animal makes the chase after it very keen. Hunt- ers will follow the trail of a band for days, when they would not follow that of deer or antelope for a half hour. Events have developed a race of this species, known either as the wood or tnoun- tain buffalo, which is acquiring, and has al- ready largely acquired, habits widely differ- ent from those of the others of its kind. It is found in the wooded and most precipitous portions of the mountains, instead of on the level and open plains; it goes singly or in small parties, instead of in huge herds; and it is more agile and infinitely more wary than is its prairie cousin. The formation of this race is due solely to the extremely se- vere process of natural selection that has been going on among the buffalo herds for the last sixty or seventy years; the vast ma- ON THE PRAIRIE 117 jority of the individuals were utterly unable to accommodate themselves to the sudden and complete change in the surrounding forces with which they had to cope, and therefore died out; while a very few of the more active and wary, and of those most given to wandering off into mountainous and out-of-the-way places, in each genera- tion survived, and among these the wariness continually increased, partly by personal ex- perience, and still more by inheriting an in- creasingly suspicious nature from their an- cestors. The sense of smell always was ex- cellent in the buffalo; the sense of hearing becomes much quicker in any woods animal than it is in one found on the plains; while in beasts of the forest the eyesight does not have to be as keen as is necessary for their protection in open country. On the moun- tains the hair grows !onger and denser, and the form rather more thickset. As a result, a new race has been built up; and we have an animal far better fitted to “ harmonize with the environment,” to use the scientific 118 HUNTING TRIPS cant of the day. Unfortunately this race has developed too late. With the settlement of the country it will also disappear, unless very stringent laws are made for its protec- tion; but at least its existence will for some years prevent the total extermination of the species asa whole. It must be kept in mind that even this shyer kind of buffalo has not got the keen senses of other large game, such as moose; and it is more easily fol- lowed and much more keenly and eagerly sought after than would be any other animal smaller and less valuable to the hunter than itself. “While the slaughter of the buffalo has been in places needless and brutal, and while it is to be greatly regretted that the species is likely to become extinct, and while, more- over, from a purely selfish standpoint many, including myself, would rather see it con- tinue to exist as the chief feature in the un- changed life of the Western wilderness ; yet, on the other hand, it must be remembered that its continued existence in any numbers ON THE PRAIRIE x19 was absolutely incompatible with any thing but a very sparse settlement of the country ; and that its destruction was the condition precedent upon the advance of white civili- zation in the West, and was a positive boon to the more thrifty and industrious fron- tiersmen. Where the buffalo were plenty, they ate up all the grass that could have sup- ported cattle. The country over which the huge herds grazed during the last year or two of their existence was cropped bare, and the grass did not grow to its normal height and become able to support cattle for, in some cases two, in others three, seasons. Every buffalo needed as much food as an ox or cow; and if the former abounded, the lat- ter perforce would have to be scarce. Above all, the extermination of the buffalo was the only way of solving the Indian question. As long as this large animal of the chase existed, the Indians simply could not be kept on reservations, and always had an ample supply of meat on hand to support them in the event of a war; and its disappearance 120 HUNTING TRIPS was the only method of forcing them to at least partially abandon their savage mode of life. From the standpoint of humanity at large, the extermination of the buffalo has been a blessing. The many have been bene- fited by it; and I suppose the comparatively few of us who would have preferred the con- tinuance of the old order of things, merely for the sake of our own selfish enjoyment, have no right to complain. The buffalo is easier killed than is any other kind of plains game; but its chase is very far from being the tame amusement it has been lately represented. It is genuine sport; it needs skill, marksmanship, and hardihood in the man who follows it, and if he hunts on horseback, it needs also pluck and good riding. It is in no way akin to various forms of so-called sport in vogue in parts of the East, such as killing deer in a lake or by fire hunting, or even by watching at a runaway. No man who is not of an adventurous temper, and able to stand rough food and living, will penetrate to the haunts ON THE PRAIRIE 121 of the buffalo. The animal is so tough and tenacious of life that it must be hit in the right spot; and care must be used in ap- proaching it, for its nose is very keen, and though its sight is dull, yet, on the other hand, the plains it frequents are singularly bare of cover; while, finally, there is just a faint spice of danger in the pursuit, for the bison, though the least dangerous of all bo- vine animals, will, on occasions, turn upon the hunter, and though its attack is, as a rule, easily avoided, yet in rare cases it man- ages to charge home. A ranchman of my acquaintance once, many years ago, went out buffalo hunting on horseback, together with a friend who was unused to the sport, and who was mounted on a large, untrained, nervous horse. While chasing a bull, the friend’s horse became unmanageable, and when the bull turned, proved too clumsy to get out of the way, and was caught on the horns, one oi which entered its flank, while the other inflicted a huge, bruised gash across the man’s thigh, tearing the muscles 122 HUNTING TRIPS all out. Both horse and rider were flung to the ground with tremendous violence. The horse had to be killed, and the man died ina few hours from the shock, loss of blood, and internal injuries. Such an accident, how- ever, is very exceptional. My brother was in at the death of the great southern herds in 1877, and had a good deal of experience in buffalo hunting; and once or twice was charged by old bulls, but never had any difficulty in either eva- ding the charge or else killing the brute as it came on. My cousin, John Roosevelt, also had one adventure with a buffalo, in which he received rather a fright. He had been out on foot with a dog and had severely wounded a buffalo bull, which nevertheless, with the wonderful tenacity of life and abil- ity to go over apparently inaccessible places that this species shows, managed to clamber up a steep, almost perpendicular, cliff. My cousin climbed up after it, with some diffi- culty; on reaching the top he got his elbows over and drew himself up on them only to ON THE PRAIRIE 123 find the buffalo fronting him with lowered head not a dozen feet off. Immediately ' upon seeing him it cocked up its tail and came forward. He was clinging with both hands to the edge and could not use his rifle; so, not relishing what was literally a téte-a- téete, he promptly let go and slid or rather rolled head over heels to the foot of the cliff, not hurting himself much in the sand, though of course a good deal jarred by the fall. The buffalo came on till its hoofs crumbled the earth at the brink, when the dog luckily got up and distracted its atten- tion; meanwhile, my cousin, having bounced down to the bottom, picked himself up, shook himself, and finding that nothing was broken, promptly scrambled up the bluff at another place a few yards off and shot his antagonist. When my cattle first came on the Little Missouri three of my men took a small bunch of them some fifty miles to the south and there wintered with them, on what were then the outskirts of the buffalo range, the 124 HUNTING TRIPS herds having been pressed up northwards. In the intervals of tending the cattle—work which was then entirely new to them—they occupied themselves in hunting buffalo, killing during the winter sixty or seventy, some of them on horseback, but mostly by still-hunting them on foot. Once or twice the bulls when wounded turned to bay; and a couple of them on one occasion charged one of the men and forced him to take refuge upon a steep isolated butte. At another time the three of them wounded a cow so badly that she broke down and would run no farther, turning to bay in a small clump of thick trees. As this would have been a very bad place in which to skin the body, they wished to get her out and tried to tease her into charging; but she seemed too weak to make the effort. Em- boldened by her apathy one of the men came up close to her behind, while another was standing facing her; and the former finally entered the grove of trees and poked her with a long stick. This waked her up most ON THE PRAIRIE 125 effectually, and instead of turning on her assailant she went headlong at the man in front. He leaped to one side just in time, one of her horns grazing him, ripping away his clothes and knocking him over; as he lay she tried to jump on him with her fore- feet, but he rolled to one side, and as she went past she kicked at him like a vicious mule. The effort exhausted her, however, and she fell before going a dozen yards far- ther. The man who was charged had rather a close shave; thanks to the rashness and contempt of the game’s prowess which they all felt—for all three are very quiet men and not afraid of any thing. It is always a good rule to be cautious in dealing with an ap- parently dead or dying buffalo. About the time the above incident occurred a party of hunters near my ranch killed a buffalo, as they thought, and tied a pony to its foreleg, to turn it over, as its position was a very bad one for skinning. ‘Barely had the pony been tied when the buffalo came to with a jump, killed the unfortunate pony, and 126 HUNTING TRIPS needed a dozen more balls before he fell for good. At that time the buffalo would occasion- ally be scattered among the cattle, but, as a rule, avoided the latter and seemed to be afraid of them; while the cattle, on the con- trary, had no apparent dread of the buffalo, unless it happened that on some occasion they got caught by a herd of the latter that had stampeded. A settler or small ranch- man, not far from my place, was driving in a team of oxen in a wagon one day three years since, when, in crossing a valley, he encountered a little herd of stampeded buffalo, who, in their blind and heedless terror, ran into him and knocked over the wagon and oxen. The oxen never got over the fright the rough handling caused them, and ever afterward became unmanageable and tore off at sight or smell of a buffalo. It is said that the few buffalo left in the country through which the head waters of. the Belle Fourche flow, have practically ON THE PRAIRIE 127 joined themselves to the great herds of cattle now found all over that region. Buffalo are very easily tamed. On a neighboring ranch there are four which were taken when very young calves. They wander about with the cattle, and are quite as familiar as any of them, and do not stray any farther away. One of them was cap- tured when a yearling, by the help of a large yellow hound. The cowboy had been chasing it some time and, finally, fearing it might escape, hied on the hound, which _ dashed in, caught the buffalo by the ear, and finally brought it down to its knees, when the cowboy, by means of his lariat secured it, and, with the help of a companion, managed to get it back to the ranch. Buffalo can be trained to draw a wagon, and are valuable for their great strength; but they are very headstrong and stupid. If thirsty, for in- stance, and they smell or see water, it is absolutely impossible to prevent their going to it, no matter if it is in such a place that 128 HUNTING TRIPS they have to upset the wagon to get down to it, nor how deep the mud is. When tamed they do not seem to be as ferocious as ordinary cattle that are allowed to go free; but they are such strong, blundering brutes that very few fences will hold them. My men, in hunting buffalo, which was © with them an occasional occupation and not a regular pursuit, used light Winchesters ; but the professional buffalo hunters carried either 40-90 or 45-120 Sharps, than which there are in the world no rifles more ac- curate or powerful; with the larger-cali- bred ones (45 or 50) a man could easily kill an elephant. These weapons are ex- cellent for very long range work, being good for half a mile and over; and some- times the hunters were able to kill very many buffalo at a time, owing to their curious liability to fits of stupid, panic terror. © Sometimes when these panics seize them they stampede and run off in headlong, heedless flight, going over any thing in their way. Once, in mid-winter, one of my men ON THE PRAIRIE 129 was lying out in the open, under a heavy roll of furs, the wagon sheet over all. Dur- ing the night a small herd of stampeded buffalo passed by, and one of them jumped on the bed, almost trampling on the sleeper, and then bounded off, as the latter rose with a yell. The others of the herd passed al- most within arm’s length on each side. Occasionally these panic fits have the op- posite effect and make them run together and stand still in a stupid, frightened man- ner. This is now and then the result when a hunter fires at a herd while keeping him- self concealed; and on rare occasions (for buffalo act very differently at different times, according to their moods) it occurs even when he is in full sight. When they are made to act thus it is called in hunters’ parlance getting a “stand” on them; and often thirty or forty have been killed in one such stand, the hunter hardly shifting his position the whole time. Often, with their long-range heavy rifles, the hunters would fire a number of shots into a herd half a 130 HUNTING TRIPS mile off, and on approaching would find that they had bagged several—for the Sharps rifle has a very long range, and the narrow, heavy conical bullets will penetrate almost any thing. Once while coming in over the plains with an ox wagon two of my cowboys surprised a band of buffaloes, which on being fired at ran clear round them and then made a stand in nearly their former position; and there they stood until the men had fired away most of their am- munition, but only half a dozen or so were killed, the Winchesters being too light for such a distance. Hunting on foot is much the most destructive way of pursuing buf- faloes; but it lacks the excitement of chas- - ing them with horses. When in Texas my brother had several chances to hunt them on horseback, while making a trip as guest of a captain of United States cavalry. The country through which they hunted was rolling and well watered, the buffalo being scattered over it in bands of no great size. While ON THE PRAIRIE 131 riding out to look for the game they were mounted on large horses; when a band was spied they would dismount and get on the smaller buffalo ponies which the orderlies had been leading behind them. Then they — would carefully approach from the leeward side, if possible keeping behind some hill or divide. When this was no longer pos- sible they trotted gently towards the game, which usually gathered together and stood for a moment looking at them. The in- stant the buffalo turned, the spurs were put in and the ponies raced forward for all there was in them, it being an important point to close as soon as possible, as buf- falo, though not swift, are very enduring. Usually a half a mile took the hunters up to the game, when each singled out his animal, | rode along-side on its left flank, so close as almost to be able to touch it with the hand, and fired the heavy revolver into the loins or small of the back, the bullet rang- ing forward. At the instant of firing, the trained pony swerved off to the left, al- 132 HUNTING TRIPS most at right angles to its former course, so as to avoid the lunging charge some- times made by the wounded brute. If the animal kept on, the hunter, having made a half circle, again closed up and repeated the shot; very soon the buffalo came to a halt, then its head dropped, it straddled widely with its forelegs, swayed to and fro, and pitched heavily forward on its side. The secret of success in this sort of hunt- ing is to go right up by the side of the buf- falo; if a man stays off at a distance of fifteen or twenty feet he may.fire a score of shots and not kill or cripple his game. While hunting this, the largest of Ameri- can animals, on horseback is doubtless the most exciting way in which its chase can be carried on, we must beware of crying down its pursuit on foot. To be sure, in the latter case, the actual stalking and shoot- ing the buffalo does not need on the part of the hunter as much skill and as good marksmanship as is the case in hunting most other kinds of large game, and is but ON THE PRAIRIE 133 a trifle more risky; yet, on the other hand, the fatigue of following the game is much greater, and the country is usually so wild as to call for some hardihood and ability to stand rough work on the part of the man who penetrates it. One September I determined io take a short trip after bison. At that time I was staying in a cow-camp a good many miles up the river from my ranch; there were then no cattle south of me, where there are now very many thousand head, and the buffalo had been plentiful in the country for a couple of winters past, but the last of the herds had been destroyed or driven out six months before, and there were only a few _ stragglers left. It was one of my first hunting trips; previously I had shot with ’ the rifle very little, and that only at deer or antelope. I took as a companion one of my best men, named Ferris (a brother of the Ferris already mentioned); we rode a couple of ponies, not very good ones, and each carried his roll of blankets and a very 134 HUNTING TRIPS small store of food in a pack behind the saddle. Leaving the cow-camp early in the morn- ing, we crossed the Little Missouri and for the first ten miles threaded our way through the narrow defiles and along the tortuous divides of a great tract of Bad Lands. Al- though it was fall and the nights were cool the sun was very hot in the middle of the day, and we jogged along at a slow pace, so as not to tire our ponies. Two or three black-tail deer were seen, some distance off, and when we were a couple of hours on our journey, we came across the fresh track of a bull buffalo. Buffalo wander a great dis- tance, for, though they do not go fast, yet they may keep travelling, as they graze, all day long; and though this one had evi- dently passed but a few hours before, we were not sure we would see him. His “tracks were easily followed as long as he had kept to the soft creek bottom, crossing and recrossing the narrow wet ditch which wound its way through it; but when he ON THE PRAIRIE 135 left this and turned up a winding coulie that branched out in every direction, his hoofs scarcely made any marks in the hard ground. We rode up the ravine, carefully examining the soil for nearly half an hour, however ; finally, as we passed the mouth of a little side coulie, there was a plunge and crackle through the bushes at its head, and a shabby-looking old bull bison gal- loped out of it and, without an instant’s hesitation, plunged over a steep bank into a patch of rotten, broken ground which led around the base of a high butte. So quickly did he disappear that we had not time te dismount and fire. Spurring our horses we galloped up to the brink of the cliff down which he had plunged; it was remarkable that he should have gone down it unhurt. From where we stood we could see noth- ing; so, getting our horses over the broken ground as fast as possible, we ran to tne butte and rode round it, only to see the buffalo come out of the broken land and climb up the side of another butte over a 136 HUNTING TRIPS quarter of a mile off. In spite of his great weight and cumbersome, heavy-looking gait, he climbed up the steep bluff with ease and even agility, and when he had reached the ridge stood and looked back at us for a moment; while so doing he held his head high up, and at that distance his great shaggy mane and huge fore-quarter made him look like a lion. In another second he again turned away and made off; and, be- ing evidently very shy and accustomed to being harassed by hunters, must have travelled a long distance before stopping, for we followed his trail for some miles until it got on such hard, dry ground that his hoofs did not leave a scrape in the soil, and yet did not again catch so much as a glimpse of him. Soon after leaving his trail we came out on the great, broken prairies that lie far back from the river. These are by no means everywhere level. A flat space of a mile or two will be bounded by a low cliff or a row of small round-topped buttes; or ON THE PRAIRIE 137 will be interrupted by a long, gentle sloping ridge, the divide between two creeks; or by a narrow canyon, perhaps thirty feet deep and not a dozen wide, stretching for miles before there is’ a/erossine place. The smaller creeks were dried up, and were merely sinuous hollows in the prairie; but one or two of the larger ones held water here and there, and cut down through the land in bold, semicircular sweeps, the out- side of each curve being often bounded by a steep bluff with trees at its bottom, and oc- casionally holding a miry pool. At one of these pools we halted, about ten o’clock in the morning, and lunched; the banks were so steep and rotten that we had to bring water to the more clumsy of the two ponies in a hat. Then we remounted and fared on our way, scanning the country far and near from every divide, but seeing no trace of game. The air was hot and still, and the brown, barren land stretched out on every side for leagues of dreary sameness. Once 138 HUNTING TRIPS we came to a canyon which ran across our path, and followed along its brink for a mile to find a place where we could get into it; when we finally found such a place, we had to back the horses down to the bottom and then lead them along it for some hundred yards before finding a _ break through which we could climb out. It was late in the afternoon before we saw any game; then we made out in the middle of a large plain three black specks, which proved to be buffalo—old bulls. Our horses had come a good distance, under a hot sun, and as they had had no water ex- cept from the mud-hole in the morning they were in no condition for running. They were not very fast anyhow; so, though the ground was unfavorable, we made up our minds to try to creep up to the buffalo. We left the ponies in a hollow half a mile from the game, and started off on our hands and knees, taking advantage of every sage- brush as cover. After a while we had to lie flat on our bodies and wriggle like a ON THE PRAIRIE 139 snakes; and while doing this I blundered into a bed of cactus, and filled my hands with the spines. After taking advantage of every hollow, hillock, or sage-brush, we got within about a hundred and twenty-five or fifty yards of where the three bulls were unconsciously feeding, and as all between was bare ground I drew up and fired. It was the first time I ever shot at buffalo, and, confused by the bulk and shaggy hair of the beast, I aimed too far back at one that was standing nearly broadside on to- wards me. The bullet told on his body with a loud crack, the dust flying up from his hide; but it did not work him any im- mediate harm, or in the least hinder him from making off; and away went all three, with their tails up, disappearing over a slight rise in the ground. ‘Much disgusted, we trotted back to where the horses were picketed, jumped on them, a good deal out of breath, and rode after the flying game. We thought that the wounded one might turn out and leave the others; 140 HUNTING TRIPS and so followed them, though they had over a mile’s start. For seven or eight miles we loped our jaded horses along at a brisk pace, occasionally seeing the buffalo far ahead; and finally, when the sun had just set, we saw that all three had come to a stand in a gentle hollow. There was no cover anywhere near them; and, as a last desperate resort, we concluded to try to run them on our worn-out ponies. As we cantered toward them they faced us for a second and then turned round and made off, while with spurs and quirts we made the ponies put on a burst that enabled us to close in with the wounded one just about the time that the lessening twilight had almost vanished; while the rim of the full moon rose above the horizon. The pony I was on could barely hold its own, after getting up within sixty or seventy yards of the wounded bull; my companion, better mounted, forged ahead, a little to one side. The bull saw him coming and swerved from his course, and by cutting across I ON THE PRAIRIE 141 was able to get nearly up to him. The ground over which we were running was fearful, being broken into holes and ditches, separated by hillocks; in the dull light, and at the speed we were going, no attempt could be made to guide the horses, and the latter, fagged out by their exertions, floun- dered and pitched forward at every stride, hardly keeping their legs. When up within twenty feet I fired my rifle, but the dark- ness, and especially the violent, labored mo- tion of my pony, made me miss; I tried to get in closer, when suddenly up went the bull’s tail, and wheeling, he charged me with lowered horns. My pony, frightened into momentary activity, spun round and tossed "up his head; I was holding the rifle in both hands, and the pony’s head, striking it, knocked it violently against my forehead, cutting quite a gash, from which, heated as I was, the blood poured into my eyes. Mean- while the buffalo, passing me, charged my companion, and followed him as he made off, and, as the ground was very bad, for 142 HUNTING TRIPS some little distance his lowered head was unpleasantly near the tired pony’s tail. I tried to run in on him again, but my pony stopped short, dead beat; and by no spur- ring could I force him out of a slow trot. My companion jumped off and took a couple of shots at the buffalo, which missed in the dim moonlight; and to our unutter- able chagrin the wounded bull labored off and vanished in the darkness. I made after him on foot, in hopeless and helpless wrath, until he got out of sight. Our horses were completely done out ; we did not mount them again, but led them slowly along, trembling, foaming, and sweating. The ground was moist in places, and after an hour’s search we found in a reedy hollow a little mud-pool, with water so slimy that it was almost gelatinous. Thirsty though we were, for we had not drunk for twelve hours, neither man nor horse could swallow more than a mouthfui or two of this water. We unsaddled the horses, and made our beds by the hollow, ON THE PRAIRIE 143 each eating a biscuit; there was not a twig with which to make a fire, nor any thing to which we might fasten the horses. Spread- ing the saddle-blankets under us, and our own over us, we lay down, with the saddles as pillows, to which we had been obliged to lariat our steeds. The ponies stood about almost too tired to eat; but in spite of their fatigue they were very watchful and restless, continually snorting or standing with their ears for- ward, peering out into the night; wild beasts, or some such things, were about. The day before we had had a false alarm from supposed hostile Indians, who turned out to be merely half-breed Crees; and, as we were in a perfectly lonely part of the wilderness, we knew we were in the domain of both white and red horse-thieves, and that the latter might in addition to our horses try to take our scalps. It was some time before we dozed off, waking up with a start whenever we heard the horses stop grazing and stand motionless with heads 144 HUNTING TRIPS raised, looking out into the darkness. But at last, tired out, we fell sound asleep. About midnight we were rudely awak- ened by having our pillows whipped out from under our heads; and as we started from the bed we saw, in the bright moon- light, the horses galloping madly off with the saddles, tied to the lariats whose other ends were round their necks, bounding and trailing after them. Our first thought was that they had been stampeded by horse- thieves, and we rolled over and crouched down in the grass with our rifles; but noth- ing could be seen, except a shadowy four- footed form in the hollow, and in the end we found that the horses must have taken -alarm at a wolf or wolves that had come up to the edge of the bank and looked over at us, not being able at first to make out what we were. We did not expect to find the horses again that night, but nevertheless took up the broad trail made by the saddles as they dragged through the dewy grass, and fol- ' ON THE PRAIRIE 145 lowed it well in the moonlight. Our task proved easier than we had feared; for they had not run much over half a mile, and we found them standing close together and looking intently round when we came up. Leading them back we again went to sleep ; but the weather was rapidly changing, and by three o’clock a fine rain began to come steadily down, and we cowered and shiv- ered under our wet blankets till morning. At the first streak of dawn, having again eaten a couple of biscuits, we were off, glad to bid good-bye to the inhospitable pool, in whose neighborhood we had spent such a comfortless night. A fine, drizzling mist shrouded us and hid from sight all distant objects; and at times there were heavy downpours of rain. Before we had gone any distance we became what is termed by ‘ backwoodsmen or plainsmen, “turned round,” and the creeks suddenly seemed to be running the wrong way; after which we travelled purely by the compass. For some hours we kept a nearly straight 146 HUNTING TRIPS course over the formless, shapeless plain, drenched through, and thoroughly uncom- fortable; then as we rose over a low divide the fog lifted for a few minutes, and we saw several black objects slowly crossing some rolling country ahead of us, and a glance satisfied us they were buffalo. The> horses were picketed at once, and we ran up as near the game as we dared, and then began to stalk them, creeping forward on our hands and knees through the soft, muddy prairie soil, while a smart shower of rain blew in our faces, as we advanced up wind. The country was favorable, and we got within less than a hundred yards of the nearest, a large cow, though we had to creep along so slowly that we were chilled through, and our teeth chattered behind our blue lips. To crown my misfortunes, I now made one of those misses which a man | to his dying day always looks back upon with wonder and regret. The rain was beating in my eyes, and the drops stood out in the sight of the rifle so that I could ON THE PRAIRIE 147 hardly draw a bead; and I either overshot or else at the last moment must have given a nervous jerk and pulled the rifle clear off the mark. At any rate I missed clean, and the whole band plunged down into a hollow and were off before, with my stiffened and numbed fingers, I could get another shot; and in wet, sullen misery we plodded back to the ponies. All that day the rain continued, and we passed another wretched night. Next morning, however, it had cleared off, and as the sun rose brightly we forgot our hunger and sleepiness, and rode cheerily off up a large dry creek, in whose bottom pools of rain-water still stood. During the morning, ’ however, our ill-luck continued. My com- ‘ panion’s horse almost trod on a rattlesnake, and narrowly escaped being bitten. While riding along the face of a steeply-inclined bluff the sandy soil broke away under the ponies’ hoofs, and we slid and rolled down to the bottom, where we came to in a heap, horses and men. Then while galloping 148 HUNTING TRIPS through a brush-covered bottom my pony put both forefeet in a hole made by the fall- ing and uprooting of a tree, and turned a complete somersault, pitching me a good ten feet beyond his head. And finally, while crossing what looked like the hard bed of a dry creek, the earth gave way under my horse as if he had stepped on a trap-door and let him down to his withers in soft, sticky mud. I was off at once and floundered to the bank, loosening the lariat from the saddlebow ; and both of us turning to with a will, and bringing the other pony in to our aid, hauled him out by the rope, pretty nearly strangling him in so doing; and he looked rather a melancholy object as he stood up, trembling and shaking, and plastered with mire from head to tail. So far the trip had certainly not been a success, although sufficiently varied as re- gards its incidents; we had been confined to moist biscuits for three days as our food; had been wet and cold at night, and sun- burned till our faces peeled in the day; were ON THE PRAIRIE 149 hungry and tired, and had met with bad weather, and all kinds of accidents; in ad- dition to which I had shot badly. But a man who is fond of sport, and yet is not naturally a good hunter, soon learns that if he wishes any success at all he must both ( | keep in memory and put in practice An-| thony Trollope’s famous precept: “It’s dogged as does it.” And if he keeps dog- gedly on in his course the odds are heavy that in the end the longest lane will prove to have a turning. Such was the case on this occasion. Shortly after mid-day we left the creek bottom, and skirted a ridge of broken buttes, cut up by gullies and winding ravines, in whose bottoms grew bunch grass. While passing near the mouth, and to leeward of one of these ravines, both ponies threw up their heads, and snuffed the air, turning their muzzles towards the head of the gully. Feeling sure that they had smelt some wild beast, either a bear or a buffalo, I slipped off my pony, and ran quickly but cautiously 150 HUNTING TRIPS up along the valley. Before I had gone a hundred yards, I noticed in the soft soil at the bottom the round prints of a bison’s ‘hoofs; and immediately afterwards got a glimpse of the animal himself, as he fed slowly up the course of the ravine, some distance ahead of me. The wind was just right, and no ground could have been better for stalking. Hardly needing to bend down, I walked up behind a small sharp-crested hillock, and peeping over, there below me, not fifty yards off, was a great bison bull. He was walking along, grazing as he walked. His glossy fall coat was in fine trim, and shone in the rays of the sun; while his pride of bearing showed him to be in the lusty vigor of his prime. As I rose above the crest of the hill, he held up his head and cocked his tail in the air. Before he could go off, I put the bullet in behind his shoulder. The wound was an almost immediately fatal one, yet with sur- prising agility for so large and heavy an animal, he bounded up the opposite side of ON THE PRAIRIE I5I the ravine, heedless of two more balls, both of which went into his flank and ranged forwards, and disappeared over the ridge at a lumbering gallop, the blood pouring from his mouth and nostrils. We knew he could not go far, and trotted leisurely along . on his bloody trail; and in the next gully we found him stark dead, lying almost on his back, having pitched over the side when he tried to go down it. His head was a re- markably fine one, even for a fall buffalo. He was lying in a very bad position, and it was most tedious and tiresome work to cut it off and pack it out. The flesh of a cow or calf is better eating than is that of a bull; but the so-called hump meat—that 1s, the strip of steak on each side of the back- bone—is excellent, and tender and juicy. Buffalo meat is with difficulty to be dis- tinguished from ordinary beef. At any rate, the flesh of this bull tasted uncom- monly good to us, for we had been without fresh meat for a week; and until a healthy, active man has been without it for some 152 HUNTING TRIPS little time, he does not know how positively and almost painfully hungry for flesh he be- comes, no matter how much farinaceous food he may have. And the very toil I had been obliged to go through, in order to procure the head, made me feel all the prouder of it when it was at last in my possession. A year later I made another trip, this time with a wagon, through what had once been a famous buffalo range, the divide be=- tween the Little Missouri and the Powder, at its northern end, where some of the creeks flowing into the Yellowstone also head up; but though in most places throughout the range the grass had not yet grown from the time a few months before when it had been cropped off down close to the roots by the grazing herds, and though the ground was cut up in all directions by buffalo trails, and covered by their innumerable skulls and skeletons, not a living one did we see, and only one moderately fresh track, which we followed until we lost it. Some ot the ON THE PRAIRIE 153 sharper ridges were of soft, crumbling sand- stone, and when a buffalo trail crossed such a one, it generally made a curious, heart- shaped cut, the feet of the animals sinking the narrow path continually deeper and deeper, while their bodies brushed out the sides. The profile of a ridge across which several trails led had rather a curious look when seen against the sky. Game was scarce on this broken plains country, where the water supply was very scanty, and where the dull brown grass that grew on the parched, sun-cracked ground had been already cropped close; still we found enough to keep us in fresh meat; and though no buffalo were seen, the trip was a pleasant one. There was a certain charm in the very vastness and the lonely, melan- choly desolation of the land over which every day we galloped far and wide from dawn till nightfall; while the heavy can- vas-covered wagon lumbered slowly along to the appointed halting-place. On such a trip one soon gets to feel that the wagon is 154 ON THE PRAIRIE home; and after a tiresome day it is pleas- ant just to lie still in the twilight by the side of the smouldering fire and watch the men as they busy themselves cooking or ar- ranging the beds, while the solemn old ponies graze around or stand quietly by the great white-topped prairie schooner. . The blankets and rubbers being arranged in a carefully chosen spot to leeward of the wagon, we were not often bothered at night, even by quite heavy rainfalls; but once or twice, when in peculiarly exposed places, we were struck by such furious gusts of wind and rain that we were forced to gather up our bedding and hastily scramble into the wagon, where we would at least be dry, even though in pretty cramped quar- ters. CHAPTER IV STILL-HUNTING ELK ON THE MOUNTAIN FTER the buffalo the elk are the first animals to disappear from a country when it is settled. This arises from their size and consequent conspicuousness, and the eagerness with which they are followed by hunters; and also because of their gre- gariousness and their occasional fits of stupid panic during whose continuance hunters can now and then work great slaughter in a herd. Five years ago elk were abundant in the valley of the Little Mis- souri, and in fall were found wandering in great bands of over a hundred individuals each. But they have now vanished com- pletely, except that one or two may still lurk in some of the most remote and broken 155 156 HUNTING TRIPS places, where there are deep, wooded ra- vines. Formerly the elk were plentiful all over the plains, coming down into them in great bands during the fall months and travers- ing their entire extent. But the incoming of hunters and cattle-men has driven them off the ground as completely as the buffalo; unlike the latter, however, they are still very common in the dense woods that cover the Rocky Mountains and the other great western chains. In the old days running elk on horseback was a highly esteemed form of plains sport; but now that it has become a beast of the timber and the craggy ground, instead of a beast of the open, level prairie, it is followed almost solely on footand with the rifle. Its sense of smell is very acute, and it has good eyes and quick ears; and its wariness makes it under ordinary circumstances very difficult to approach. But it is subject to fits of panic folly, and during their continuance great numbers can be destroyed. A band ON THE PRAIRIE 157 places almost as much reliance upon the leaders as does a flock of sheep; and if the leaders are shot down, the others will huddle together in a terrified mass, seem- ingly unable to make up their minds in which direction to flee. When one, more bold than the rest, does at last step out, the hidden hunter’s at once shooting it down will produce a fresh panic; I have known of twenty elk (or wapiti, as they are oc- casionally called) being thus procured out of one band. And at times they show a curious indifference to danger, running up on a hunter who is in plain sight, or stand- ing still for a few fatal seconds to gaze at one that unexpectedly appears. In spite of its size and strength and great branching antlers, the elk is but little more dangerous to the hunter than is an ordinary buck. Once, in coming up to a wounded one, I had it strike at me with its forefeet, bristling up the hair on the neck, and ma- king a harsh, grating noise with its teeth; as its back was broken it could not get at 158 HUNTING TRIPS me, but the savage glare in its eyes left me no doubt as to its intentions. Only in a single instance have I ever known of a hunter being regularly charged by one of these great deer. He had struck a band of elk and wounded an old bull, which, after going a couple of miles, received another ball and then separated from the rest of the herd and took refuge in a dense patch of small timber. The hunter went in on its trail and came upon it lying down; it jumped to its feet and, with hair all brist- ling, made a regular charge upon its pur- suer, who leaped out of the way behind a tree just in time to avoid it. It crashed past through the undergrowth without turning, and he killed it with a third and last shot. But this was a very exceptional case, and in most instances the elk submits to death with hardly an effort at resistance; it is by no means as dangerous an antagonist as is a bull moose. The elk is unfortunately one of those animals seemingly doomed to total destruc- ON THE PRAIRIE 159 tion at no distant date. Already its range has shrunk to far less than one half its former size. Originally it was found as far as the Atlantic sea-board; I have myself known of several sets of antlers preserved in the house of a Long Island gentleman, whose ancestors had killed the bearers shortly after the first settlement of New York. Even so late as the first years of this century elk were found in many moun- tainous and densely wooded places east of the Mississippi; in New York, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, and all of what were then the Northwestern States and Territories. The last individual of the race was killed in the Adirondacks in 1834; in Pennsylvania not till nearly thirty years later; while a very few are still to be found in Northrn Michigan. Elsewhere they must now be sought far to the west of the Mississippi; and even there they are almost gone from the great plains, and are only numerous in the deep mountain forests. Wherever it exists the skin hunters and 160 HUNTING TRIPS meat butchers wage the most relentless and unceasing war upon it for the sake of its hide and flesh, and their unremitting per- secution is thinning out the herds with terrible rapidity. The gradual extermination of this, the most stately and beautiful animal of the chase to be found in America, can be looked upon only with unmixed regret by every sportsman and lover of nature. Excepting the moose, it is the largest and, without ex- ception, it is the noblest of the deer tribe. No other species of true deer, in either the Old or the New World, come up to it in size and in the shape, length, and weight of its mighty antlers; while the grand, proud carriage and lordly bearing of an old bull make it perhaps the most majestic- looking of all the animal creation. The open plains have already lost one of their great attractions, now that we no more see the long lines of elk trotting across them; and it will be a sad day when the lordly, antlered beasts are no longer found in the ON THE PRAIRIE 16% wild rocky glens and among the lonely woods of towering pines that cover the great western mountain chains. The elk has other foes besides man. The grizzly will always make a meal of one if he gets a chance; and against his ponderous weight and savage prowess hoofs and ant- - ‘lers avail but little. Still he is too clumsy and easily avoided ever to do very much damage in the herds. Cougars, where they exist, work more havoc.