v—! | ~ lo RA A fs =~ ZN FR.
VN AAAYa A AAAARA AAA AY A; A AAA Ay

vA AAV AAA AAA oY
Ae rena Anaad
MAA aaana RAN ARAY Vat
Ree RaAAA a AAAAay
PAN Aan WARD As Anan
AAA Aan A AAAN AA
ae = ae F CONGRESS. AANA
nanan is , Yi oman No. |

AA ‘alg ; UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 4.

g Pee @SSESSOSESS, &e @@@ O)

LAA ARRARAA
sala

anne AAARAN

SA AGAAAAAAS ,

aan PARRA, AAR R

~\* aN

AA af F\ ,

aRRAaaAAARARAL
ant te con sen
V-VVV.\ANAAAAAANA ANANA AANA
-\ a a , AF \ A AAAA A AA Ap Al’ o f\ AA Ain l | aA A A A
AAIRAARA AAA Ae AAR
Aaa anna nn

WT alana

AAAAR RAY

>
>
i
>
Dh.
>
>

C Ceey oe SSS “Sl GCSES SS

SESS pe RCE KCC CEG “KC Cue

cc Ce EE aa CCECC CC Ces

Ce SSS CCC CEES:

, (aa ieee i §& Canae Oceans SAGs EES
ace ea comes <a CC : Soe

SS RECs < (wed
ace ica Se ice ee = :

Baca ae Cee a x Le MECC
Be Oe SSE See Cc € me

Ce me c = aaa Co See
COS sc 5 We SRE = [<= & Ee

“Ge | Ce wee CE CC
Ge EE CC Kace COLE Ce CE eee <
: rea KE COO SE, EEC Cae ae Soe eee
—_ KEKE KE. CO a CCE CCC C CE CCE G&G C G2 Car an
CE CC CC €@ EEE EH CC OOCE KK
CE EE Care Cae COCO KC CCEA Es
CCE EEE MERE CEL CREEL. Cc
Co COO HEC CC ECC BH CCOEKECE CE: <a
COCE CE ECC & CECCOCE@E COREE CO.

ee a se

i ae aa eee MMU 6 OLE a ar SEES ta

A . Are
Les Lf
Ph

i ae

ah) Me

iy

ie

Xe.

bx Ee )-4

Ba

o: SEE 4

)

OE TS OMI GOMES CMRELE) 4 ORR) $9 OMS GELS CORRE) 9 ERE

SORE ONES SEO
$ 7S y Y
‘eo OX
LOY)

| WX) UZ <—
Wp Lae

ZU
OX bel i((¢
SG DYKE DE LE OK LE OU ACS

~ aes.
a

Ses

ne kart herve

INSTRUCTIONS

IN

Strawberry Culture,

BY
E. W. DURAND,
OF

IRVINGTON, ESSEX COUNTY, NEW JERSEY

NEWARE, N. J.:
Press of Williams & Plum,
1876

ENTERED according to Act of Congress, in
the Year Eighteen Hundred and Seventy-Six, by
E. W. DuRAND, in the office of the Librarian of
Congress, at Washington,

TO. THE, PUBLIC.

O

Having so frequently been solicited for articles
upon Strawberry culture, I have concluded to give
the results of my experience in as brief a manner
as possible, consistent with the necessities the mat-
ter may demand. {f herewith present this little
Book, hoping it may meet with approval, and sat-
isfy the requirements of the Strawberry public, not
only as a source of information to growers generally,
but as a guide for the novice from the beginning
to the end.

In the whole course of my experience, I have
been almost entirely self-reliant ; not to say that I
am vain enough to suppose the experience of others
worth nothing in comparison; but having listened,
at the start, to so many conflicting theories, which
not only served to puzzle and mystify me to
such an extent as to leave me more in the dark
than ever, as to any definite course to pursue, but
impressed upon me the necessity of experiment, in
every possible direction, in order to arrive at any
just conclusion.

Having pursued this course persistently for the
last seventeen years, cultivating both for the market
and family purposes, combining and experimenting
with manures, in different soils, and under various
circumstances, forcing upon myself a mass of ma-

A

terial, and entailing an amount of labor that few
would be willing to endure for the value of the
knowledge gained. The necessities have been such
as to throw nearly the whole labor upon my own
hands; finding it next to impossible to procure
such help, combined with a conception of the pro-
per conditions and essentials. In order to avoid
the muddle that hired intelligence would have sub-
jected me to, I have had to endure an amount of
physical and mental labor, that had it not been for
knowledge of both the necessities and attention to
the same, I should have broken down under the
strain long since. Not only in the preparation and
care of my beds for the cultivation of hundreds
and thousands of new varities, and incidentals as
above mentioned, that being but a fraction of the
whole; but in originating seedlings from which
vexatious trials and troubles in combination, and
necessities in way of experiment, and labor of the
brain, none but those pursuing a similar course
can comprehend.

My intention at the commencement of this work,
was to give results in way of originating seedlings
as well as in cultivation, but finding it would be
more of an undertaking than would be consistent
with the time and necessities of the occasion, I have
concluded to give such experience in similar form
at some future time.

In these few lines of general instruction, no pre-
tense is made in a literary way, as regards develop-
ment of any peculiar theory, or nice flow of tech-
nicalities: such not being necessary for the purpose

5

of instruction in respect to cultivation of fruit;
but simply as presenting such instruction as the
necessities may require, in a plain and comprehen-
Sive manner, avoiding all those (to some), indefinite
terms as may only serve to puzzle and mystify those
seeking such knowledge in an ordinary way, and
consistent with common sense.

Having honestly given the results of my exper-
ience in such a manner as all may easily understand,
I leave it to the community to judge how far I may
have been successful by my productions of such
fruit, now and in future, to be presented to a dis-
criminating public.

E. W. DURAND.

f
ie _ . i)
ey ae Ei
*
i
’ bs yey
: oak are Ty
, 7 , ‘< i” AS
watines Tyg iheg Sey tinealaeh blag p Nike? ,,
¢ an Om ne 7

id <9 ‘ Pe. oe
: : * \ ‘ha
7
f

STRAWBERRY CULTURE.

e)

In explanation of the following, I may acknow-
ledge that my experience has been mainly upon
clay soil, in some cases inclining to sandy loam,
never in any case cultivating extensively upon
strictly sandy soil, arriving at conclusions on such
soil by experiment and observation, confirmed by
the experience of prominent cultivators. When
preparing for any particular crop, it is well to un-
derstand the necessities and requirements in every
particular, in order to see your course clearly, pur-
suing it unhesitatingly and intelligently, leaving
no stone unturned that may assist in arriving at a
successful termination. With this end in view, I
present such instruction as will, with proper atten-
tion, invariably lead to satisfactory results, and
reward those so engaged by such a return in a pe-
cuniary sense, as will leave no cause of complaint
for following faithfully the path pointed out. As
in many cases cultivators pay but slight attention,
I would impress one thing upon the mind, that
it will be necessary, at the start, to understand
thoroughly the nature of the soil with which you
have to deal. As for Strawberries it will follow, as
an invariable rule, that beyond a certain degree,
soils made light will not answer, especially when
made so with horse manure, or any light, fibrous
material. Of course, under such conditions, it will
not do to apply immoderate quantities of light
manures to soils that are naturally light in them-

8

selves, or made so by previous cultivation. All
soils in proportion as they may contain sand or
light vegetable material, must be manured accord-
ingly. As. near as may be possible to judge, I
would recommend it applied as advised, allowing
the largest quantity mentioned to stiff clay, and
using in moderation as you approach sand, or light
soil of any kind, say but one quarter of the great-
est allowance, and that of the kind recommended.
Of course, it is apparent to all that clay will retain
and absorb immense quantities of such material,
and last or remain in proportion, while as they
incline to sand they are more rapidly exhausted.
We may now proceed with the matter in hand.

AS MANURE AND ITS APPLICATION

Is of great importance, and one of the first essen-
tials, I propose to give the necessities in way of
management and distribution. That I have always
been, and am still, of the opinion, that compost is
most desirable, yet in extensive cultivation it entails
too much labor in way of collecting the necessary
materials, and the construction of the heap, in order
to be complete in way of variety, still for those
merely cultivating a family bed, I should certainly
advise it. I prefer in all cases to use cow manure
as most reliable.

The preparation I would advise for compost
would be cow manure as a base, as an absorbent J
would employ the sediment of a fish pond, muck,
sweepings from the city streets, or even rich deposits

9

of sand and vegetable matter frequently found by
the road side.

Commence with a layer of four or five inches of
cow manure, upon that an inch or so of the absorb-
ent dirt or muck, upon that a sprinkling of bone
dust, upon that a layer of night soil, contents of
sink, or garbage of any kind, upon that a layer of
absorbent, and so on until the heap is complete, or
as high as may be desired.

If wood ashes can be had, use freely with the
dirt or muck, covering it with an extra layer of the
same, as it throws off ammonia from the manure
when in contact with it, it is well to use a sprink-
ling of plaster with the muck or other absorbing
material, in order that you may be sure of retaining
all gases that may be likely to escape.

Upon this heap, when complete, throw all slops
from the house, if convenient, and allow the heap
to remain for fifteen or twenty days; then turn it
over, mix thoroughly, put a layer of the absorbent
on top with a sprinkling of plaster, and in a few
days it will be ready for use. If the compost is not
convenient, use, unhesitatingly, cow manure, never
resorting in any case to that of the horse, in way
of preparation for immediate planting. Although
in many cases a bed prepared with well rotted horse
manure may be a very successful operation, yet
with a long experience of its uncertain results, I
would, in my own case, never attempt it again.
I have frequently examined plants from a bed set
out after being prepared with, as I supposed, well
rotted horse manure, and have found the roots

10

blackened or burned entirely off by contact with it.
Not so with that from the cow. You may find
plants growing in a mass of fresh manure of this
kind, with roots as fresh and bright as possible, —
and when compelled to do so, have manured beds
heavily with fresh cow manure just previous to set-
ting out, with great success, yet I do not advise it,
except where time is out of the question, and the
necessity is upon you. We now come to

THE PREPARATION OF THE GROUND,

As in this lies the foundation for a successful crop,
care and attention should be given to the matter.
If possible take it in hand at least one year in ad-
vance, or previous to the time you propose setting
out your plants. First in order is the

AMOUNT OF MANURE REQUIRED.

You may apply at the rate of from fifty to one
hundred two-horse loads to the acre for heavy clay
soil, divide for three ploughings, using the greatest
proportion at the first ploughing, which should be
in the spring. Harrow and allow the weeds- to
sprout; when of sufficient height, plough again,
and be sure you allow none to go to seed to give
you trouble in future.

In the fall plough again, using more than half
of the remaining manure, reserving the last and
smallest proportion for the next spring, which
should be ploughed in as early as possible.

iM

If the ground is stony, to save trouble in cul-:
tivation, it would be well to remove them at each
ploughing.

Your ground is now ready, with the exception of
about five hundred pounds of bone dust to the acre,
which I would advise distributing at the ploughing
that is necessary before setting the plants. It will
be well here to give an idea of the best manner of

PREPARING THE PLANTS.

The general way is to allow the runners to take
root anywhere; but the careful cultivator distributes
them carefully and evenly, making each one sta-
tionary by putting a small stone or lump of dirt
upon the vine, as close as possible to the leaf, at the
base of which it takes root at its junction with the
ground, previously making the ground soft and
loose that they may grow more rapidly.

In many cases where you have fast growing,
strong plants, it is better to set them for making
runners the spring of the same year you intend
setting out, in order to get them more vigorous and
uniform. My plan is to select the first good run-
ners, lay them in carefully, when fairly rooted,
separate, and place in rich soil about two feet apart.
They will make uniformly strong plants that will
do to set early in August, and even before that
time.

It is only with certain vigorous plants that you
can operate in this way, but where it is possible, it
is desirable, as your plants will not only be more —

12

vigorous and regular, but will give you berries of
larger and more uniform size than by any other
process. In any case lay your runners in by
making them fast so the wind may not move them,
with sufficient room for each, and leave them for
the rain to start, or if you are in haste, and not
operating upon too large a scale, you may facilitate
matters by sprinkling with a watering pot, until
the ground is quite wet which will answer the pur-
pose equally as well.

Your runners should invariably be produced from
single plants, or rows not over one year old, as the
importance of strength and vigor cannot be too
strongly enforced, as it frequently makes the differ-
ence between a paying and a non-paying crop. We
may now prepare for

TRANSPLANTING.

I have always been an earnest advocate of setting
out plants early in the season—I am yet impressed
with the importance of so doing, as I have invari-
ably been successful when pursuing this course—
the last of July or first of August, or even sooner
if strong plants can be procured. You gain no-
thing by setting plants, not sufficiently matured,
and in any case set none at all, rather than those
that are weakly, as you may rest assured they will
never repay you for your trouble.

THE DISTANCE OF THE ROWS APART

depends upon the kind of plant, and the time of
planting; also the use you intend making of the

13

bed the second year. As regards economy, I would
advise setting single rows, not more than two and
a half feet in width between, for large plants, while
for those of naturally small growth, two feet will
be found sufficient.

Of course, the distance will be varied by circum-
stances, as where space is of no account and labor
not considered ; and again, in gardens where ladies
may wish to gather the fruit, such distance would
not afford sufficient room—as crinoline is a difficult
thing to handle in contracted rows—under such
circumstances three or four feet might be desirable.
Yet in cultivating for profit, the narrow widths are
to be preferred as entailing less labor in proportion
to the returns.

THE DISTANCE OF PLANTS IN THE ROWS

must now be considered. It beinga matter requir-
ing change under various circumstances. It is well
to understand the plant or plants you may have
under cultivation, and ascertain, by trial, their per-
formance as planted close together, or some specified
distance apart. Serious mistakes are continually
made in regard to this matter; many kinds being
placed fifteen or twenty inches apart, when in fact
each plant would bear nearly as many berries with-
in three or four inches of each other. There is the
greatest possible difference in this respect—some
bearing as many berries each, when crowded, as
when standing alone; while there is the greatest

change in others. As an instance, I have gathered —

2

14

from a row of Late Prolific’s of 32 plants, 15 inches
apart in the row: 28 quarts. Crowd one hundred
in the same space, and you would not get five quarts
from the whole row. Then, again, it is just the re-
verse: one called the Brilliant, gave a splendid
crop when close together, while separately they
were moderate bearers. And so on indefinitely,
there can be no general specified distance.

You must be governed by your plant, the condi-
tion of the soil, and the quality or quantity of fruit
you may wish. If your object is a great crop, and
your ground able to bear it, select a plant that will
endure confinement, and place closely together in
the rows. If you wish large fruit give more room,
and use younger and more vigorous plants; and as
a general rule, the later in the season you set them
out, the closer you may place them together.

In transplanting, be careful as to

DEPTH OF SETTING.

Plants should never be set with the crowns below
the level of the ground, or in condition to allow
the heavy rains to cover them with dirt; as it will
_ frequently destroy them altogether. You will find
a small leaf near the crown of each plant, which
as a general thing will furnish a criterion as to
depth. If you are setting out upon a ridge or
elevation, you may set a little deeper to allow for
washing away of the earth by the rains; but if set-
ting upon a level—which I should invariably ad-
vise—be sure not to get below the surface especial-

15

ly in heavy soils. There is always at the time of
setting plants

DANGER FROM DROUGHT,

From which there is no safe-guard; but if you set
your plants early, you are in time to re-set in case
of failure.

If it so happens that your plants should be seri-
ously injured from this cause, it would be well to
replace them with those fresh and vigorous.

If the ground from which you take your plants
appears soft and loose, you may remove each plant
with a trowel full of earth, allowing the roots to
remain as nature placed them.

If hard and compact, forming a solid ball of
earth, it will be liable to remain so and retard the
growth of the plant. In case of this kind of trouble,
it will be well to let them remain until a cloudy or
wet day, or wet spell of weather, and set them
without any soil at the roots, and bear in mind
that the later you set them out the closer you may
place them together.

SETTING PLANTS IN SEVERE DROUGHT

is frequently a necessity, some of my very best beds
have been set in this way. At such times be careful
to disarrange the roots as slightly as possible, allow-
ing the earth to remain on them. Set at the same
depth or slightly deeper, and press the whole firmly
together, but not too hard.

16

Tt is presumed your ground is in condition to
receive the plants, that is, the manure distributed
thoroughly through it, in the manner previously
advised.

The practice of setting plants over trenches, or
making a hole and filling with manure, and placing
the plant upon it, cannot be too strongly con-
demned, even well rotted manure will seldom be
productive of good results.

MANURING IN TIME OF SETTING PLANTS

Should never-be resorted to in summer; early in
the spring or late in the fall it may answer, but
never in dry weather. In summer it is almost in-
variably detrimental, and under any circumstances,
should never be attempted.

When setting the plant, if not very wet weather,
it is well to wet thoroughly around the root, say
half a pint of water to each, and the same quantity
should be apphed daily, morning or evening, as
long as they continue to wilt by the heat of the

sun. If properly set ‘as directed, they will soon:

recover and do well; if not injured by severe drought.
You are now to give them the required

CARE AFTER SETTING,

Which should be given as soon as weeds or grass
make their appearance. You may proceed with the
hoe, rake, cultivator, or even plough, if nicely han-
died, before the roots spread much. My own course

L7

has been to rely entirely upon the hoe and rake.
I do not like disturbing the ground after the plants
are set, yet it is frequently done with good results.
For my own beds, I much prefer the hand cultiva-
tor to that of the horse, as I do not fancy rough
cultivation.

As soon as the slighest start of weeds is apparent,
a few days after setting the plants, rake the whole
bed over, removing all stone and rough material,
which will leave it in good condition for future cul-
tivation; destroying, by this leveling process, the
young weeds and grasses, that if allowed to remain
long become dangerous; not only by robbing the
plant of its nourishment, but by loosening the root
by their removal, especially when making their ap-
pearance close to the plant, in which case they
should be immediately and carefully removed by
the fingers.

If your plants are injured, or stunted by severe
drought, it is better to remove them, or such as may
be necessary, replacing them with fresh vigorous
ones, that will well repay you for the extra trouble.
In this case will be found one great advantage of
early setting.

LATE SETTING OUT

May sometimes produce a very fine crop, I have
lately seen a superb crop from plants set between
the 10th and 20th of October, yet I would never
advise such a proceeding; as under unfavorable cir-
cumstances you are likely to fail, especially in such

18

soils as are likely to be affected by frost; as ground
of this character not fairly settled heaves badly,
throwing the plants out in a wholesale manner,
especially when not well rooted. All beds in this
condition should be protected by carefully covering
before cold weather affects them; as from this cause
alone your plants may be entirely destroyed. In all
late setting, for after cultivation—in displacing
weeds—do not disturb the ground more than is
actually necessary; use the hoe and rake as lightly
as possible, allowing the ground to settle and be-
come compact, as the limited time will aliow, as
plants in loose or freshly worked ground invariably

suffer most from the action of frost. We may now ©

pay attention to

MANURING FOR WINTER.

Itshould not commence too soon, especially when
using fresh manure; as uncombined ammonia is

liable to injure the plants. If the weather should.

be cool, you may commence in September, if not,
wait until it is.

You may commence by applying a small «ine
of bone dust, say a small hand full to each plant,
if ten or twelve inches apart—if closer not quite so
* much—distribute near the plant, and cover lightly
with earth, or throw some absorbent, such as pow-
dered peat or muck overit. You are now ready for

19
HEAVY MANURING.

Which, if cow manure or compost, may be used to
almost any extent, care being taken not to cover
the plant.

Horse manure may be used for this purpose, es-
pecially in heavy soils; but in all cases I prefer that
of the cow spread between the rows, close to the
plants, under the foliage if you wish, but not over
it. My plan is to spread rapidly between, without
touching the plants, from two to four inches in
depth. You are“now prepared for

COVERING FOR WINTER.

For this purpose, you may use either of the fol-
lowing; partially rotten hay, or bedding from
manure, or combination of the same, with saw dust;
or exhausted tan bark; such as the refuse of an ice
house; salt hay; sawdust pure; or if judiciously
used fine horse manure.

Partially decomposed hay from horse manure I
prefer, as being mixed more or less with the manure,
makes an excellent non-conductor of heat, and yet
leaves a sufficient circulation of air to prevent the
plant from receiving injury, as is frequently the
case from being too closely covered.

In the spring there is no necessity for its removal,
as it will break up under cultivation with the hoe,
and yet act as a mulch to protect the fruit from
being injured by dirt in case of heavy rains. I sel-
dom resort to any of the long kinds of covering,

20

as I object to its removal in the spring, and the ne-
-cessity of spreading again before the berries are ripe,
in order to keep them clean, making a material
addition to the labor. Saw dust, exhausted tan
bark, or fine horse manure may be used, but it will
require an extra amount of fibrous material to keep
your berries out of the dirt in the spring; as cover-
ing of this kind will mix more or less with the
dirt in cultivation, and spatter badly with the
heavy rains.

Caution must be used in applying tan bark, as it
frequently contains poisonous matter in combina-

tion for the purpose of tanning; it would be well

to let it remain exposed to the rain for a year or so
before using.

Salt hay may be considered the best covering
where no objection is made to its removal for cul-
tivation. Of course, under the horse arrangement,
all covering of any length of fibre must necessarily
be removed, and as this material does not fill the
ground with seed, I consider it preferable. Aside
from such objection, any fine fibrous vegetable
material will answer.

Where the plants have been allowed to run ep
gether in the rows, the best covering is fine horse
manure sprinkled over, leaving the plants partly
projecting tlrough, as when so situated they are,
in a degree, self protecting, and as the fruit is sel-
dom so heavy in proportion, and consequently self-
supporting, it will need but slight mulching on the

outer edges of the rows to protect its fruit from the ~

dirt. I have beds of strawberries between my rows

21

of pear trees, that nature attends to as nicely as
may be desired. When shedding the leaves in the
fall, the wind distributes them around the plants,
forming a perfect protection. But 1 would advise
the use of leaves in no other way, as they will mat
over the plants in such a way as to prevent the air
reaching them, in which condition they are almost
sure to perish.

THE TIME FOR COVERING

Is just before the ground begins to be affected by
‘frost, as considerable harm may be done to small
plants by slight freezing; especially in moist ground,
or that recently worked, which if effected seriously,
should be under-drained, previous to setiing the
plants; allowing this precaution has not been taken,
paths or ditches should be made at least one foot
below the surface of the bed, not over 20 feet distant
from each other, running parallel, with sufficient
fall to relieve the bed of all surplus water, and
emptying where thé wash of the bed may not be
lost. The bed being now prepared for winter, may
rest until neeessary to receive

zi

ATTENTION IN SPRING.

Which is required as soon as the plants raise
their foliage sufficiently to disturb the covering,
which may be brushed off the top to relieve it.
But where removal of the covering is proposed,
and the necessity for cultivation becomes apparent,

22 j
by the growth of weeds and grass, the cultivator or
spade may be used; but my invariable rule is, to
disturb the ground as lightly as possible. Yet I
have seen both spade and horse cultivator used with
seemingly beneficial results; and the same in regard
to even ploughing.

By some the plan is adopted of spading in the
manure, aS a preparation for setting out the bed
anew, as soon as the berries are gathered, which
plan I have seen work remarkably well.

Yet I am constrained from my own experience,
to repeat my former remark and conclusion; that
all serious disturbance of the soil in the spring, is
more or less injurious to bearing plants.

The simple necessity is apparent, of keeping the
beds free from weeds and grasses, with as slight
disturbance as possible. Our next attention is
required in

‘PICKING.

As soon as the berry is fairly ripe, which is no
easy matter to determine at times, it may be picked.
Yet there is not only a difference of opinion in this
matter, but circumstances dictate different courses;
some varieties when seemingly ripe, and in just the
condition to pick, will gain in aroma and sweetness
by remaining upon the vines a day or two longer;
while others will be entirely ruined by the same
course. Black Defiance, for instance, may remain,
after receiving its full color, for a period of ten days,
and even longer, under the most trying circum-
stances, and lose but little of its aroma; while some

23

of the soft varieties will perish immediately upon
ripening, and even before, in consequence of too
much rain or heat, and in some cases, from rapid
changes, incidental to the strawberry season. Of
course, in such cases, the cultivator must be the
judge of the existing necessities.

In many cases, careless and destructive pickers
are employed. The berries are crushed by the feet,
‘the vines are mangled and broken down, bearing
stems torn off green berries and all, or twisted and
broken, so that those remaining will not ripen, and
the ripe fruit so crushed by careless handling, as to
be ruined for market purposes, by the time they
arrive at their destination. All troubles of this
character must be carefully looked after by the cul-
tivator, in order that the crop may be a success.
Anda here let me remark, for the benefit of consum-
ers as well as producers, that the strawberry should
invariably be picked with the calyx remaining upon
the berry, as nearly all lose their aroma in a very
short time after parting with it. It is to the fruit,
what the cork is to the bottle of champagne,

‘The.crop having been gathered, preparation may
now be made for

CULTIVATING THE SAME): PLOT
ANOTHER YEAR.

There are various dispositions in this respect,
that of the least trouble, is to allow the runners to
take root near the parent plant, making a row of
ten or twelve inches in width, or more, depending

24

upon the width of the original rows. Another is to
run a small plough between the rows, making a
furrow large enough to receive manure, without
throwing the dirt over your plants. Fill the same
with compost or cow manure, level the dirt over
it, and it is ready to lay the runners upon.

A better way is to remove every other row; then
prepare the vacant space by ploughing and manur-
ing, as directed, allowing the remaining rows to
make beds of plants, two feet or two and a half
wide, according to the original width, by laying or
distributing the runners over it, or laying them in.

In preparing beds of this kind, after the new
plants are well rooted, you are to take out the old
plants, while the space occupied by them, serves as
a path between the new ones. It is always well to
remove the old plants, after they have served the
purpose of making new ones.

If as before proposed the original rows were two,
or two and a half feet apart, and well manured for
winter, if you prefer, you may fork the manure
in between the rows, allowing the new plants to
occupy the new space, the same as when running
the furrow and manuring.

Of the two plans, I much prefer the latter for
small beds; having adopted this one for the last few
years, and found it very successful. By keeping the
rows very narrow, almost to a single row, yon may
continue in this way for years, manuring between
the rows for winter, and using bone dust as before

advised.
Yet when cultivators prefer, as I do, the wage

/

25

berries, it is better to use new ground each year,
making the bed, as at first proposed, one year in
advance, and setting single rows.

This plan I should invariably pursue, if I had
facilities for so doing, as the ground is left in superb
condition for anything, and you may return to it,
in a year or two, if properly treated, with every
prospect of success.

One objection, and a very serious one, is that
grounds occupied by strawberries, year after year,
are liable to be infested with the grub, or insects
peculiar to the plant, destroying them to such an
extent, as to seriously interfere, and sometimes, as
in case of severe drought, ruin the whole bed.
For which reason, and the favorable action of new
ground, I prefer a new bed each year. We may
now pay attention to

PLANTS AND THEIR PECULIARITIES,

Of which it is well to be able to discriminate, as to
their liability to thrive under the circumstances in
which they are placed. The first of which we will
denominate the

RAPID GROWER,

It is the one adapted to heavy soils, such as blue

and yellow clay, that sometimes require stimulants,

being always retentive, and often sluggish in action.

As all soils of this character, require a rapidly -

maturing plant; it will be well for the cultivator to
3

26

step carefully before venturing too far, and be sure
of the adaptation of the plant to its position. The
want of such knowledge, being a frequent cause of
failure. It being advisable in any case, to test vari-
ous kinds in comparison, upon a small scale, for two
years, before planting extensively, as in many cases
valuable plants will not accommodate themselves to
the sudden change in soil and climate, that is re-
quired by removal under widely different circum-
stances, in so short a time as one year.

It is unfair and unjust to suppose, that a plant
must do well when removed to conditions directly
opposed to those of previous years of occupation,
and to which it had become adapted.

In many cases, what might prove the most valu-
able of all, is thrown out and condemned, simply
because it did not do well at the first trial, which in
nine cases out of ten, may be attributed to some
other cause than the right one. The experienced
cultivator may be able to determine in a short time,
the requisites of a plant for a new position. If he
finds it a rapid grower, making strong vigorous
foliage, and a stout crown, or additional ones as
scapes, he may be satisfied, so far it is right; if its
performance in way of fruit is satisfactory, that 1s
generally sufficient. Still it may not give such re-
sults the first year, and yet perform splendidly the
second or third year; and even those that are satis-
factory at first, may not always remain so, depending
upon material sometimes in new ground that may
be easily exhausted, and difficult to supply. It is

a7
always well to test new plants in various positions,
before conclusion.

COLD CLAY SOIL.

As a general thing, rapidly growing vigorous
plants, are a necessity in a soil of this character,
while a slow grower may do wonders in a light rapid
soil, in a warm climate, and bearing immense ber-
ries, it may become worthless in a cold slow one,
making at the start, little or no preparation for
fruit, being stunted and worthless in both fruit and
foliage. Again I have seen the most reliable varie-
ties in clay soil and cold climate, when transferred
to light soil and a warm one, run to excess of
foliage, and produce nothing in way of fruit.

The only way of getting at the matter properly,
is to try various kinds, giving sufficient time to

adapt themselves to the necessary changes.

TIGHT SOILS.

It is frequently the case, that plants are con-
demned as being weak in light soils. In my various
experiments in order to test the peculiar effects of
different manures upon plants, I have frequently
had my attention called to the evil effects of making
the soil too light and porous for strawberries.

Finding those placed in a bed made very light
with horse manure did not do well, I at once sus-
pected the cause; the plants appeared weakly, and
would make no foliage, although considered vigo-

28

rous growers, upon removing them, I found they
had made immense roots, and although I had raised
the finest crops previously in the same bed, I found
it useless to undertake to get fruit, or even respect-
able plants, from it for years after.

Not being fully satisfied in regard to the matter,
I set various plants near my stable, where the soil
had been made exceedingly light with the same
material, notwithstanding it was originally a heavy
yellow clay; although very rich, the foliage would
not grow.

I allowed them to. remain one year; upon remoy-
ing them by pulling them up, I found the roots
came easily out of this light, feathery material, and
while the plants were yet in my hand, the roots
were still fast in the ground, eight feet distant, and
how much longer they may have been, I did not
take the trouble to ascertain, that length being
quite sufficient. The only conclusion that could
be arrived at was, that the strawberry requires soil
that will cling closely to the root, that its absorbents
may be able to act. And so frequently has this
same trouble presented itself to my notice, that I
am thoroughly convinced, and have been for years,
that all soils made light with excess of vegetable
fibre, are unfit (while in such condition), for
strawberry culture.

SETTING PLANTS IN LIGHT SOILS.

It is generally on account of the trouble last
mentioned, that cultivators insist upon setting

29
plants in the spring, finding it almost impossible
to make them root in warm weather. In this case,
the plant is enabled to sustain itself, under mode-
rate warmth, and sufficient moisture, where it could
not endure the heat and drought of summer, and
the young plants upon which the crop depends,

are supported by the parent plant while rooting.

In all cases where plants are

WEAK IN FOLIAGE,

And still remain so, after having sufficient time to
adapt themselves to their new position; I would
not advise their use to any great extent, until satis-
fied more fully of their endurance; although you
may at first, under favorable: circumstances, get a
fine crop of large berries. Yet such plants are not
to be depended upon; frequently (not in all cases),
being deficient in vitality. Before condemning
such plants, be sure the fault is not your own, and
that your soil may not be deficient in material,
necessary to sustain them.

NARROW LEAF OR SLENDER FOLIAGE,

Such as have long, light leaf stalks, should be
thrown out in any case, as detestable under any
circumstances, being unable to endure wind or
storm, lopping down, and exposing the fruit, to
both sun and rain. Even under favorable circum-

30

stances, when ripening fine fruit, they are seldom
reliable, and had better be dispensed with. Not
so with

THE STOUT LEAF VIGOROUS GROWER,

They are reliable, if accompanied by a correspond-
ing amount of fruit; being enabled by their great
vitality to endure climatic changes, and guard their
fruit, from both rain and sun, with a good, stout
leaf stalk, defying the wind, and perfecting its fruit
almost invariably. Yet such plants sometimes,
have their drawbacks, and among them, is a dispo-
sition to an excess of

RUNNERS BEFORE FRUITING,

Or rapid running, which may be produced by using.
stimulants too freely, in which case, it is not to be
considered a defect; yet when naturally disposed to
do so, is a very serious one, absorbing its strength,
and weakening itself, to such an extent, as to be
unreliable under unfavorable circumstances. These
latter are not, however, to be confounded with those
able to endure the strain, and still maintain their
strength; especially when bearing their fruit large
to the end, and ripening it well. In such cases, it
matters but little, at what time the runners may
appear, and if in addition, the old plant maintains
its original foliage, or throws up a new set of strong,
vigorous looking leaves; depend upon it, that is

ol

your plant for cultivation, and will generally be
found perfectly reliable.

{t is not always safe to put too much dependance
upon

SLOW RUNNERS,

As it is frequently the case that they are deficient
in vitality, and being exhausted by bearing fruit,

do not possess sufficient strength to make them.

When united with strength and endurance, accom-
panied by clean, unspotted foliage, long after fruit-
ing, it may be considered an advantage.

I have been forced to the conclusion that plants
_ possess

VITALITY AND ENDURANCE,

As they retain their foliage after bearing, and

making new plants; but where the parent seems |

exhausted upon its making runners, and as the
{uremost advance, those behind are found to lan-
guish, being unable to bear the strain of the new
plant. You may be sure of one of two things;
that your soil is sadly wanting in material necessary
to sustain a naturally vigorous grower, or that you
are cultivating a plant unsuited to your position.

Be sure your soil is not wanting in this respect,
before condemning on this account. It not unfre-
quently happens, that the bed is completely ex-
hausted by a heavy crop of fruit, which may have
been perfected by stimulants, or sustained by some
temporary allowance, such as light surface, or
liquid manuring, or that the amount of manure in

32
the first place was insufficient. In the latter case,

the most
RELIABLE PLANTS

Will drain the soil completely, searching out every
particle of nutriment to perfect its fruit, and when
its end is accomplished in that direction, and under
such circumstances, it is very plain that the plant
can no longer sustain itself; and such as might
have shown vigor and strength, give out at once,
with a feeble effort at self resuscitation.

Many of the best plants are condemned under
just such circumstances, but few cultivators being
aware of the amount of material necessary in the
soil, to sustain plants bearing heavy crops of berries.
This trouble is more apparent, and more likely to
be encountered, in light soils, they being more rapid
in action, or as I should say, the plants acting more
rapidly, in consequence of facilities offered the
roots for penetrating, and easily absorbing its food-
The same result may be anticipated, and more sure-
ly encountered, by such cultivation in easily ex-
hausted soils.

Many of our best and rapidly growing plants,
require a rich, retentive, or clay soil, with the ap-
plication of but little stimulating matter, and
withal, it may be set down as an invariable rule,
that all plants of great value, require

VERY RICH GROUND,

Being exhorbitant feeders, exhausting the ground
rapidly, and producing in proportion, as they are

33

supplied with the necessary material. Serious mis-
takes are made in this respect, as some soils are
deficient in carbon, and wanting in material to sus-
tain and develop its fruit, and generally of a light
character, and rapid in action, are wholly unfit for
such purpose; while m such condition, and it is
not unusual to see people apply bone dust, pou-
drette, or fresh horse manure, where stimulating
matter is wholly unnecessary, and even hurtful,
producing a luxuriant growth of foliage, with a
scant supply of fruit. The crop being a failure,
under such conditions, the plant is considered a
worthless one by the cultivator, who in nine cases
out of ten, is unable to determine where the trouble
exists. We sometimes hear of fine crops of berries
being raised upon

POOR GROUND,

- Which may be rich in essentials for producing fruit,
without sufficient stimulating matter to make a re-
spectable show of foliage ; the natural inference is,
that the plant must be a fine bearing one, not dis-
posed to run to vine. Frequently the whole plot
will be exhausted in a year or two, and the advocate
of poor ground cultivation is at a loss to determine
why he succeeds so poorly under similar circum-
stances, on the same plot. It is easily perceived,
that what may have been considered poor soil, and
in reality is so for some purposes, is the most de- |
sirable for this one, and in most cases success may

34

be readily accounted for. Instances of this kind
are not unusual,—as a spot may be selected, to all
appearance as poor as possible, at the surface, un-
derlying which is a bed or layer of peat or black
muck, possessing an almost unlimited supply of
fruit producing material; or what may have been
the bottom of a fish pond, the surface of which
may appear poor, yet remaining almost inexhaust-
ible for our purpose. In such cases, the plant
receives.the credit, and is highly praised, while,
under different circumstances, the same kind is
condemned as unfit for cultivation.

An enviable reputation is sometimes gained for a
worthless plant under accidental combinations,
while some of great value may be considered as
worthless from the same cause.

PLANTS AS EFFECTED BY CLIMATE.

The most valuable plants may suffer from severe
and almost incessant rains, destroying or scalding
their foliage. In view of the fact that such a state
of things is unusual at the time of the year that
we may expect dry weather, such quality may not
be considered an objection, especially as such plants,
generally, withstand the opposite extreme in way
of drought. While those of this description may not
do well for a wet and warm climate, yet would be
the very thing to withstand the severe drought of
our summers, making a good growth at the most
desirable time ; while a plant of the opposite char-

3d
acter could not be depended upon at all, from its
inability to endure dry weather, usual to our climate
at time of setting out. These peculiar effects are
mentioned that cultivators may not be over hasty
in their decisions regarding plants as fitted for
peculiar positions.

TESTING & CHOOSING FOR LOCALITIES.

A nice discrimination is required, by trial, of
numerous varieties, to be enabled to select such as
may be fitted by nature to occupy certain positions,
giving the best returns in accordance with proper
cultivation.

The cost being trifling, when compared with
results, while those so engaged are laying the
foundation for almost invariable success.

QUALITIES REQUIRED.

One of the most desirable qualities in any plant
is endurance, or, in other words, strength and
vitality ; that may be manured to any extent, as
before advised; possessing sufficient foliage to pro-
tect its fruit, making vigorous plants, capable of
resisting drought; aud making headway against
minor troubles, and insuring a successful return in
proportion to its proper cultivation.

Various qualities being desirable under different
circumstances, each must choose according to the
position they may occupy. One being far from
market, may require a berry that will endure rough

36

carriage; while such quality may not be desirable
to one near a market. Again, for family purposes,
flavor might be the main consideration, and yet to
an extensive cultivator for market, it might be
considered as of no account,—the public, as con-
sumers, having but little discrimination in this
respect. And so on indefinitely, cach must be the
judge of the most desirable qualities, and be enabled
to make such tests properly, and accordingly.

EXCEPTIONS.

Although, as a general rule, the most vigorous
plant is the most desirable, yet there are exceptional
cases. For instance, where an experienced cultivator
is enabled, by being thoroughly posted, to manage
a very valuable but difficult plant, possessing
peculiar properties,—producing results beyond those
less favored, by a knowledge of the necessities and
conditions of such plants. And as I before re-
marked, people must choose according to the qual-
ities they prefer. One may require a very rich
berry to eat directly from the vine; another one
that will remain a long time without injury, until
they are ready to use it for the table, or to reserve
to send away at stated periods; and I might con-
tinue in this way indefinitely, but of those prefer-
able for particular purposes, each must be the judge
of necessary qualities.

NEW GROUND PREFERRED.

The best results are almost invariably produced
upon ground not before occupied by strawberries,

37

or at least for some years; for this reason I would
advise those not well acquainted with all the re-
quirements, if possible, to select space for a new
bed every two years, not before so occupied ; es-
pecially, where a great proportion of the largest
and finest berries are required, with less trouble in
picking, weeding, &c. Although the return may
not be so great, in way of quantity, for market
purposes, yet for family use they are much more
satisfactory; and, if prepared properly in ad-
vance, there is not the same trouble in eradicating
obnoxious weeds and grasses. Another objection
to continuous cultivation is, that the ground is
likely to become infested with that pest

THE GRUB,

from which I have never been able to protect my-
self, except by removal to another plot. It may
not be generally understood that there are two dis-
tinct species of this pest, yet so much alike in
appearance as to be a difficult matter to distinguish
between them, the one apparently harmless, the
other the greatest nuisance existing, as an enemy
of the strawberry grower. ‘The difference in ap-
pearance is that the destructive one being rather
slender in comparison than the other, and although
attaining nearly the same size, yet never quite so
stout and bulky. The one living entirely upon
dead matter; and the other entirely upon that
alive. The non-destructive or harmless one, is
4

38

found in manure, while the other is making its
ravages in the strawberry beds and grass lands,
destroying the roots of both to such an extent, in
time of drought, as to nearly ruin them, and would
entirely, if it was not for their power of recuper-
ation in making roots to replace those destroyed.
For reasons of this character, I prefer setting out
a new bed each year; especially, when desiring
quality in preference to quantity; although doubt-
ful if the new beds can be made to equal those
broad rows of the second year in way of returns in
cash. We may now notice the prominent or

GENERAL CAUSES OF FAILURE.

The first of which lies in the attempt to found a
new bed upon an old one. Although

CONTINIOUS CULTIVATION

may be successful for years under certain circum-
stances, such as occupying space between the rows"
well manured and prepared by the winter’s coat,
as previously advised. The plants in this case
occupy partially new ground, and are supported by
the parent plant until firmly rooted. Not so with
the old bed, ploughed or dug up and newly set
with detached plants.

This plan should never in any case be resorted
to, although there are instances of successful culti-
vation, among those thoroughly conversant with

39

the matter, yet as a general thing, nine hundred
and ninety-nine ina thousand will result in failure.
The most frequent cases of this kind occur in
garden culture. So frequently the complaint is made
‘‘my bed in the garden did not do so well, though
I manured and took the greatest pains with it;”
and very often the best plants upon trial are con-
demned under such circumstances. Now my advice
in regard to this matter is, if you can find no other
place than an old strawberry bed to set out a new
one upon, set out none at all, for, do as you will,
you are likely to fail under the most favorable
circumstances. Next in order is the trouble arise-
ing from the indiscriminate use of

FRESH MANURES

just previous to setting out the plants—and especial-
ly horse manure, and such as decompose rapidly,
throwing off ammonia to such an extent as to suffo-
cate the plant. Not only is the root destroyed by
rapid decomposition or disorganization of such
material, but the plant being deprived of suste-
nance that has been furnished by the parent plant,
as soon as separated, is placed in a position to be
ruined by contact with such gasses, as in its par-
tially helpless condition it is unable to endure. It
is easy to perceive the difference, in way of endu-
rance, of a new plant while connected and drawing
its nourishment from the parent, and one separated
and thrown upon its own resources, as at such time,

40
the extreme heat is, in itself, sufficient for the plant
to overcome, independently of such draw-backs as

enumerated above. Another prolific source of
failure arises from

MAKING THE SOIL TO LIGHT

with an excess of vegetable fibre, even such as
muck or peat—which in a clay soil is invaluable,
—is, in a light soil, of no value in most cases ; and
where used to excess (in such soils) is detrimental,
for the reason as before stated, that the strawberry
root requires material that will cling closely to it
enabling its absorbents to act effectually. The
same trouble exists in the use of horse manure,
especially in light soils—and even in heavy soils,
when used to excess, is ruinous in its action for
present purposes. —

Yet when perfectly and thoroughly rotted, and
becoming of a pasty consistency, the plot may
again be used successfully. When in such con-
dition time and trial can alone determine, as perfect
disorganization varies materially under different
circumstances. An old garden spot is generally in
such condition, and if not previously occupied by
strawberries, will give a superb crop. ‘The same
in regard to various pieces of new land, rich in
both vegetable and mineral matter, will frequently
produce astonishing results, leaving the novice to
wonder why, with all his manuring, he has never
been able to produce similar results since his first

4]

trial. It frequently happens that sand occupies the
surface beyond the requirements of cultivation, in
which case, such are termed

LEACHY SOILS,

and may be considered the poorest and most un-
profitable of all; yet if clay can be reached with-
out great expense, they may be greatly benefited by
a liberal supply of the same, and for lands of this
character it is well to compost all manures with
clay as an absorbent.

STIMULANTS IN WARM WHATHER

should never be used, especially upon poor ground,
—where it is, apparently, most needed. The plants
not being strong and of slow growth, the conclusion
is they should be hurried or pushed ahead. When
in this condition, they are unable to endure the
action of the gasses arising from such material,
and are consequently injured or destroyed alto-
gether. Guano, night soil, fresh horse manure, or
those that throw off ammonia rapidly, should be
used with great discretion in warm weather, or not
at all; even with absorbents they require to be used
with caution, and are generally productive of more
harm than benefit,—but may be used to advantage
later in the season. My own plan is never to use
them, except in very cool weather, covering them
with some absorbent (as before advised) for sup-

42

plying the material required by the plant in the
spring. Another great mistake is in allowing the

WEEDS AND GRASS

to make sufficient growth to injure the plant by
their removal. If the ground is disturbed by the
hoe or rake upon their first appearance, or while
very young it will be found avery easy matter to keep
them down, and retain the plants and bed in nice
condition; but if neglected to long it not only en-
tails greater labor, but may destroy your prospect
for a fine crop, by disturbing your plants,
proving such a laborious process, that you will
wish you had never attempted raising a bed of
strawberries at all, when by a moderate amount
of labor at the right time all this trouble and irri-
tation might have been avoided.

It is often the case that every care is taken to
prepare a bed for the reception of

WEAKLY OR NEGLECTED PLANTS,

depending entirely upon the strength of the soil to
make them grow. This isa serious mistake from
wh.ch the cultivator should be carefully guarded,
very often is it the case from this cause alone the
crop is only one half, or one third, what it should
have been, had the plants been strong and vigor-
ous. Ido not refer to young or small plants, if
showing sufficient vigor, as they will often do

43

better than those left too long, but to those appear-
ing weakly, be the cause what it may. I have in-
variably been successful in proportion as | have
avoided |

SETTING PLANTS LATE IN THE SEASON,

Although some kinds do not require the same
length of time to perfect their germs as others,
still it is best to give them all sufficient time, and
by setting early you will be the gainer.

My best results have always been from setting
my plants in July and August; although fine crops
have been raised by setting as late as the first of
October, I should never advise such « course, or
pursue it, except as a matter of compulsion.

I have often heard this complaint; ‘‘I have set
my plants out too early, they have got their growth
and are failing.” Indifferent varieties may do so,
but first class plants never, unless material is want-
ing in the ground to support them; in this case,
all are liable to such trouble, it being unreasonable
to suppose, that strength can be sustained without
sufficient nourishment. Again, you will find plants
under favorable circumstances, to have made a su-
perb growth, sometimes in an old bed, the result of
stimulating ; but when the time arrives for pre-
paring their germs in the fall, will present the
appearance of premature old age, either from ex-
hausted ground, or from the fact of the necessary
material to support it never having been applied;

44

and here let me caution all cultivators, against the
excessive use of all

STIMULATING MATTER,

Such as contain a great amount of ammonia; or
nitrogen in its various combinations. Among these
as prominent, are guano, bone dust, some of those
termed phosphates, hen manure, night soil, pou-
drette, urine, and all of this character, although
very useful in their proper place, are detrimental
when out of it, and may even become deleterious,
when used to excess. They may be found very use-
ful in heavy compact soils, cold and slow in action,
and especially those well impregnated with carbon
in any form, such as black muck or peat, or old
manures, that may have lost a great proportion of
its stimulating property, as is often the case with
those not composted; when used to any extent in
the last mentioned soils, may be accompanied by
stimulants, and great advantages derived from their
action. It is well,in any event before using freely,
to be sure you have sufficient carbon in some form,
in the soil, to keep pace with the growth of plant
produced by the former. The invariable effect of
excess of stimulants, (when the plant is able to en-
dure them), is foliage without fruit, or in such
proportion, as fruit producing material may accom-
pany it.
ACID IN THE SOIL.

Soils of the last named character may contain acid in
excess, and are termed sour, which is often the case

45

with low, wet, undrained lands. In the preparation
of such for strawberry purposes, it is well to use
alkalies in proportion as they may be necessary.
Lime, wood ashes, plaster, &c., with thorough
drainage, and frequent Ute may be made
very productive.

It will sometimes occur, even under the best laid
plans, that plants may suffer from intense heat,
and sometimes be destroyed, the

EFFECT OF DROUGHT,

At the proper time for setting plants, we are likely
to meet with trouble of this kind.

When setting plants in summer, there is more or
less danger of continued dry weather; and as we
are unable to determine when it may come upon us,
it is best to prepare for such an emergency, by set-
the plants as early as may be consistent with the
strength of the new runners. In well prepared
ground, with vigorous plants, the setting of the
new bed may commence early in July, and continue
until the first of September, if the weather will allow,
it may be necessary to continue until cold weather
sets in; but I should prefer to finish invariably by
the first of September, if a large crop was the in-
tention at the start. In case of failure of the plants
by protracted drought, you may have an opportu-
nity to reset in time for a good crop. With failure
from this cause, in late setting, you are helpless.
As before advised, when setting in dry weather, I
prefer the plants with the earth around them, if

46

the soil from which they are taken be loose and
mellow, if not, there is no alternative but to wait
for wet weather, and set them out without the earth.

The greatest trouble I have had to contend with
in setting new beds, has been the

GRUB DESTROYING THE ROOT,

And from which I have never been able to protect
myself. Salt I believe will destroy them; but as
danger exists of killing, or injuring the plants by
its use, I prefer replacing those so destroyed, having
found no effectual manner of exterminating this
pest.

There are but few insects, aside from the one
mentioned, that are troublesome, with one excep-
tion, they may be dispensed with as unnecessary of
notice. This exception is a small boring worm,
about the size of a small pin, half or three-quarters
of an inch in length, of dark brown color. Its
action is to bore through the crown of the plant,
either destroying or injuring it to such an extent
as to be unfit to remain. Fortunately this insect
is not very numerous, and as no cure has been |
found for it, we can only supply the place of the
plants destroyed.

CHANGE OF POSITION

may sometimes be detrimental. It is well, not only
for this reason, but as a matter of convenience, to
raise your new plants near your proposed bed, or

47

in similar soil ; it being well to determine in ad-
vance, if soil and plants are suited to one another,
as too great a change may produce unfavorable
results, especially when brought from a great dis-
tance—at times doing poorly at first, yet perform-
ing splendidly when thoroughly acclimated and
and used to thesoil. In preparing your bed, atten-
tion must be paid to drainage, otherwise your plants
may suffer by the washing of dirt over them, or
away from them, and also be in danger of being
thrown out by the frost. Even if underdrained, if
the position should demand it, provision should
be made for surface water in excess, by such depth
of path around, as the necessities may require.

PROTECTION NECESSARY FROM ACTION
BY FROST.

In beds, properly prepared in well drained lands,
there may be no necessity for protection from frost
by covering with any material; the soil being
sufficiently ight and dry as to remain without
heaving or throwing the plant above its original
position, or out of the ground altogether. But
this will not answer in clay soils, many of thig
character being the most retentive, and valuable
for continuous cultivation, will need a good cover
of from one half to an inch in depth, in order to
protect them thoroughly. In many of these, with
advantage in way of drainage, and with good cul-
tivation, it might appear that no necessity existed

48

for covering in certain winters, from the fact of
snow lying upon them nearly all the time, neces-
sarily protecting them as nicely as may be desired.
Tt may happen that a series of favorable winters
will induce the cultivator to wholly neglect, or
cover very slightly, as his plants has seldom suffered.
While in such condition, a winter unfavorable from
the absence of snow, and the effect of continual
freezing and thawing, has stolen the march upon
him, and being unusually severe and trying, upon
examination in the spring he finds his beds nearly
or quite ruined. For this condition of things it
will be well to prepare, and if the nature of the
soil is such as to be effected seriously by any winter,
it would be safe to cover regularly and invariably,
as even in porous soils plants are sometimes in-
jured that are left unprotected, to a greater degree
than many would imagine.

In those grounds where covering may be neces-
sary, where the rows may be closely together, I
would advise covering with salt hay, or similar
loose material, over the whole surface, not only as
being more effectual], but retaining its place better,
being less liable to disturbance from wind. |

Regarding the liability to injury in winter, it
must be acknowledged, that light soils have an ad-
vantage in this respect; as but slight necessity
exists for care at such time.

ADVANTAGES OF LIGHT & HEAVY SOILS.

It is no easy matter to determine which character
of soil should be preferred for cultivation of the

~

49

strawberry, so much depending upon the natural
advantages in certain localities for manuring, in
way of procuring material peculiarly fitted to the
plant, and its necessities.

In many respects the advantages lie on one side,
while upon the other, they may be fully equal in
certain respects, each depending in a great measure
upon the surroundings and dispositions of those
so engaged. While, for certain reasons as presented,
I may prefer a stiff clay soil, yet I am well aware
of the natural advantages of a light one, and shall
endeavor to give, impartially, the credit due each.

For continuous cultivation, I prefer, most deci-
dedly, a stiff clay soil; as the strawberry, in most
cases, will require very rich ground, it is easily
perceived that a soil of this character will absorb
and retain a greater amount of material necessary
to supply the demand made by such exhorbitant
feeders ; being very retentive, it seldom loses, either
by evaporation or drainage, enabling you to apply
manure almost indefinitely; without the evil effects
arising from a soil too light; and as the most neces-
sary material in its cheapest forms is light; it is
apparent, that this matter must be limited in such
soils.

In all cultivation of the strawberry, with the
desire for a heavy crop of fruit, it is a matter of
necessity, that the soil be well supplied with carbon,
this material existing as the main component in
black muck or peat, and the manure as before ad-
vised for general use; such being light in themselves
when applied in such quantities as may be necessary

50

for the supply, and development of the berries, and
continued cultivation. It may at once be seen
that a large amount of such material would not
answer in a light soil, as it is almost invariably a
difficult matter to make the plants grow in proper-
tion as the ground is made too light with it; and
‘ while such material may be detrimental in such
cases, it is just the reverse in heavy soils.

Year atter year, heavy applications may be made,
and still the heavy clay may retain it without be-
coming sufficiently hght and porous to interfere
with the growth of the plant, and yet become
sufficiently so to work pleasantly—continually im-
proving in such respect—and when used no longer
for this purpose, will be found to have retained all
the material not exhausted by the strawberry. It
is at once apparent, that for continuous cultivation
with the expectation of heavy crops of berries that
a clay.soil isa necessity. On the other hand a
light soil may be preferred by many for the ease
and pleasure with which it may be worked, being
less compact and more easily handled, generally
producing a fine crop the first year, with much less
trouble in the cultivation, and scarcely any danger
of heaying or being destroyed by frost.

Still it must be born in mind, that rotation of
crops is a necessity in this case. I would not ad-
vise the continuation of the same plot more than
two years,—the first being well prepared with
manure that will not lighten the soil to much, de-

ending upon heavy mulching for the second year
of cultivatition.

oe

ol

It may be considered as a certainty, that it is not
safe to depend upon a crop, after the expiration of
this term, in light soils. Yet in this, as in all others,
there are exceptional cases, as before mentioned, by
an almost inexhaustible supply underlying the bed,
which may not be perceptible to those having but
slight experience; and even to those that have, a
combination of circumstances may produce such
an effect as will sometimes puzzle the most ex-
perienced.

In conclusion let me repeat the one piece of ad-
vice most necessary—keep your beds clean and free
from weeds and grass, by timely attention, and
careful setting in time of drought, and proper at-
tention to advice herein given, and you will be sure
to succeed.

BW. DO RAND.

“4 (
a ah
Sh

CONTENTS.

Oo—

MANURE AND ITS APPLICATION,

Compost.

Material necessary.

Construction of the heap.
Absorbents, use of.

Compared effects of various kinds.
The best and most reliable.

Fresh manure, the use of.

THE PREPARATION OF THE GROUND,

Time required.

Amount of manure required.
Application.

Ploughing, when necessary.

PREPARING THE PLANTS,

Laying in.
Strong plants, treatment of.
Healthy plants, importance of.

TRANSPLANTING, . °

Karly setting.
Weakly plants, advice as to.
Late setting.

PAGE

8

10

it

12

D4

THE DISTANCE OF THE ROWS APART, 12
Various widths necessary.
Economy in cultivation.
Large and small plants.
Family beds, width of rows.
Single or double rows.

THE DISTANCE OF PLANTS IN THE
ROWS, cs) 28 2 a aay Ce a
How to ascertain.
Trials necessary to determine.
Comparison.
Changes required.
Early and late setting.

DEPTH OF SETTING, “: >. (2). ae
in heavy and light soils.
Setting too deep, danger of
Washing by rains.

DANGER FROM DROUGHT, _. >

Injury from drought.
Manner of treatment.
Difference in loose and compact soils.

SETTING OUT PLANTS IN SEVERE |
DROUGTH, £0 Cane ie teieas : 15
Course to pursue.
Condition of soil.
Improper modes of setting out plants.
Manuring in time of setting out plants.

a

Oe)
CARE AFTER SETTING OUT,
Immediate care.

Manner of cultivation.
Caution in removal of large weeds.

LATE SETTING OUT,
Risk of drought late in season.

As effected by frost.
Precautions in covering.

MANURING FOR WINTER, -

Time to commence.
| Hresh manure too soon.
Quantity to use.
Applying bone dust.
ad es
HEAVY MANURING,
Quantity necessary.

Character of, for certain soils.
Manner of applying. |

COVERING FOR WINTER,

Variety of covering used.
Character of covering not removed.
Amount necessary.

PAGE
16

18

ee

Se ee hhh

Fine manures, when used fo .covering.

dG
PAGE

THE TIME FOR COVERING, 21

Small plants as affected by frost.
Late settmg of plants.

Vreshly worked ground.

In accordance with drainage.

ATTENTION IN SPRING, . . .. 21

When required.

Removal of covering.

Dy. Py ‘ y 7) 1 ‘ “ y €

i reparing for cultivating another year.
Various courses pursued.

BOOKING) 00: ) A 0G

When to pick certain varieties.
Effect of rain and heat.
Retaining or losing aroma.
*Careless and destructive pickers.
Necessity for the ealyx on the berry.

CULTIVATING THE SAME PLOT
ANODHER YEAR: Jo) 200) ee

Various courses- pursued.

Removal of alternate rows.
Ploughing and manuring.

Removal of old plants.

Preparation for continous cultivation.
Best course for fine fruit.

ay
PAGE

PLANTS AND THEIR PECULIARITIES, 25

RAPID GROWERS, , 25
Necessities in heavy soils.
Effect of stimulants on such plants.
Adaptation to position.
Stimulating, when necessary.
Time reguired in change of position.

COLD CLAY SOIL, : : 27
Character of plant necessary.
Plants unsuited to certain soils.
Climate in connection with soils.
Combined action upon plants.

LIGHT SOILS, ; Sear
Plants weak in light soils.
Effect of different manures in such soils.
Soils made too hght with manures.
Plants expending their strength in root.
Experiments in light soils.
Character of soil required.

SETTING PLANTS IN LIGHT SOILS, 28
Time for setting in light soils.

Care required.
Endurance of plants in light soils.

WEAK GN ROLIAGH: « cyuartieeee SS 29

Change of position frequently the cause.
Often deficient in vitality.
Exhausted ground.

08

NARROW OR SLENDER FOLIAGE,
Reliability of this character.
Endurance of such plants.

STOUT LEAF, VIGOROUS GROWERS,

As accé#fipanied by fruit.
General reliance.
Protecting the fruit.

RUNNERS BEFORE FRUITING, .

Weakness of such plants.

When reliable.

As carrying out its fruit.

Foliage in connection after fruiting.

SLOW RUNNERS,

Various causes.
When reliable.
Under what circumstances desirable.

VITALITY AND ENDURANCE,

Deficiency in plants.
Judging unjustly.
Temporary or surface manuring.

RELIABLE PLANTS,

Exhausting the soil.

Want of proper nourishment.
Causes of failure of such plants.
Deficiency in light soils.
Character of soil required.

30

31

31

B2

-

59
PAGE

VERY RICH GROUND, : ; 32

Production in proportion.

Carbon required.

Stimulating matter, where necessary.
Causes of failure.

Unjust condemnation of plants.

POOR GROUND, : ; ; 30

Deceptions in some cases.
Causes of failure.

Success accounted for.
Instances.

Accidental reputation of plants.

PLANTS AS AFFECTED BY CLIMATE, 34

Effect of incessant rains.
Endurance in drought.

Growth at the most desirable time.
Hasty decisions.

TESTING AND CHOOSING FOR
LOCALITIES, . : ; : 35

Nice discrimination required.
As fitted to occupy positions.
Returns in accordance with cultivation.
Comparing costs with results.

60
PAGE

QUALITIES REQUIRED, : 3d

Endurance.

Foliage for protection of fruit.

Resisting drought.

Qualities required under various circum-
stances,

Discriminating.

EXCEPTIONS, : 36

Management of difficult plants.
Advantages of experience.
Certain qualities desired.
Individual preference.

NEW GROUND PREFERRED, : 36

Reliability of new ground.

Largest and finest fruit.

Weeds and grasses.

Objections to continous cultivation.
Quality in preference to quantity.

THE GRUB, : 37

Two distinct species.

Difference in appearance.

Where found.

Effect in time of drought.

Continuous cultivation of the same plot.

GENERAL CAUSES OF FAILURE, 38

61
PAGE

CONTINUOUS CULTIVATION, . ‘ 38

General exceptions.
Detached plants in old beds.
Uniform failure, cause of.
Garden culture.

FRESH MANURES, : : buen es 39

Uncombined ammonia.
Horse manure.

Rapid decomposition.
Effect of escaping gases.

SEVERING THE. SOIL TOO-LIGHT, s+ 40

Excess of vegetable fibre.

Character of soil required by the root.
Results from new ground.

Perfect decomposition.

BEXCHYESOUGe Sr | eS Aw eae

How benefitted.
Composting for such soils.
Absorbent necessary.

STIMULANTS IN WARM WEATHER, 41

Plants destroyed in poor soil.
Manures detrimental.
When used to advantage.

5

62
WEEDS AND GRASS, Pheekeg : : 42

How to destroy them.
Evil effects of neglect.
Trouble and irritation avoided.

WEAKLY OR NEGLECTED PLANTS. 42

A serious mistake.
Comparison of plants.
Small plants.

SETTING PLANTS LATE IN THE
SHASON, | 280 0) \htg aoa ae

Time required.

Plants failing.

Indifferent varieties.
Premature old age.

Plants, preparing their germs.
Want of necessary material.

STIMULATING MATTER, . : eee |

Ammonia or nitrogen.
Manures containing a great amount.
When useful.
When detrimental.
_ As necessary to certain soils.
Effect when not accompanied by carbon.

63
ACID IN THE SOIL,

Undrained lands.
Preparation of such for berries.
Use of alkaline matter.

HEEECT OF DROUGHT,

Karly setting out, benefits of.
Time for setting out.
Failure from late setting.

THE GRUB DESTROYING THE ROOT,

The use of salt.
Replacing plants destroyed.
Other insects.

CHANGE OF POSITION,

Advice in regard to position.
Time required.

Accidental results.

Necessities in way of drainage.

PROTECTION NECESSARY FROM
ACTION BY FROSE:

Light soils as affected.

Effect upon clay soils.
Advantage of drainage.
Protection by snow.

Influence of favorable winters.

PAGE
44

45

46

46

47

64

PAGE

ADVANTAGES OF BOTH LIGHT AND
HEAVY SOILS, : : 48

Natural advantages of each.
Depending upon surroundings.
Clay soil preferred.

Reasons given for the same.
Carbon for clay soils, necessity of.
Difficulty from the same in light soils.
liffect of carbon upon clay soils.
Effect of carbon upon light soils.
Light soil why preferred by many.
‘Treatment, light soil, considered.
Light soil, continuous cultivation.
Exceptional cases.

Circumstances producing effects.

sa.

CONCLUSION, : ; : : 51

Advice necessary.
Attention at all times.
As attended with success.

Ke Cu ae COS SS Ss CG _ LC CCK
« Gems << oe = as CE

Ce LC Se .
<< Ca «© « Ge 6
ECE 5 ES, S cS a?

COCO € CCC Come ce ee
SOR GE LS LS eae cae < = cae
x «ae CCE _ ASS << Ce

» caren SSS ECE
Coe CESS cc =

At fi Kk € q nC At: “€.
~ i ~“ hes +. fy: = 4 : :
a ae 5 = ee ae :
eek, a ‘ CL EKO Ge er ae
ee ae = — a RE =
5 ~ = > a a r Z eet

acces
a

COCKE CO KEE KK

. tt