ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW. GARDEN LIBRARY. Ptsr tW. ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS KEW Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from BHL-SIL-FEDLINK https://archive.org/details/journalofhorticu3618hogg July 5, 1883. THE Mi JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE, COTTAGE GARDENER, AND HOME FARMER, A CHRONICLE OF COUNTRY PURSUITS AND COUNTRY LIFE, INCLUDING POULTRY, PIGEON, AND BEE-KEEPING. CONDUCTED BV ROBERT HOGG, LL.D., F.L.S. Established in 1848. VOLUME VI. THIRD SERIES. JANUARY TO JULY, 1883. LONDON PUBLISHED FOR THE PROPRIETOR 171, FLEET STREET. 1883. LONDON : PRINTED AT THE JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE OFFICE, 171, FLEET STREET. July 5, 1883. ] TO OUR READERS. We have the pleasure of feeling that the volume of the Journal of Horticulture just completed has, as much as any of its predecessors, met with the approval of old and valued friends ; many new and young readers have sought counsel in its pages, and new and able writers have joined us effectively in our work. If we adduce testimony of this appreciation it will not be boastfully, but thankfully, inasmuch as our pages have been useful; and it enables us to acknowledge our obligations to those friends who have spontaneously expressed their goodwill. The expressions of approval are voluminous, and we will transcribe at random, ceasing when our space is occupied. Writing from Durham, a correspondent says : — “ I take this opportunity of thanking you for the many pieces of advice you have given me during the nmeteeu years I have subscribed to your Journal, and for the great, assistance that advice has been to me.” From Yorkshire we have the following: — “I wish you to send me the Journal regularly. I am a new beginner as a head gardener, and there is much useful information to be had from its pages.” Another young gardener in Kent observes : — “ I have got charge of a very pretty place, and my employer is a lover of all that is beautiful and curious 111 gardens. I shall be able to send you useful notes, and wish continued success to the dear old Journal.” Yet another writes from Norfolk: — “I took charge here in 1880, and found exhausted Vines and inferior fruit. By following the advice given in the Journal the old Vines have surprised me with fine bunches, and my employer tells me he lias black Grapes for the first time for twenty years. With Mushrooms I failed; but the subject was made plain in your pages, and now I can grow them as well as I can grow Lettuces.” One more young and rising man in Lincolnshire observes : — “I beg to thank you and your staff for the information that has been given me. I consider the Journal of Horticulture the friend and counsellor of all who need assistance and are not above asking for it through its columns. ’ From a lady we have this note: — “ I have so long profited by the study of your most interesting Journal, which has beeu my only teacher in the management of my garden, that I feel it ungrateful to add nothing for the use of others.” This lady did add something, which we published, and we know it was of great use. The next letter, and the last from which we can cite, is from one of the leading gardeners ot Great Britain, who writes: — “ I hope you will not think I Hatter you when I say that I like your paper better than any other gardenin periodical that I read. I had rather do without any of the others than the Journal of Horticulture.” We do feel flattered by this testimony, and hope our friendly critic will not do without any of the gardening papers. All who have aided us we thank cordially. They have the satisfaction of knowing they have not laboured in vain ; wc have reason to rejoice in the industry and ability of our excellent coadjutors : while to our readers we promise that our next volume shall be larger and, if possible, better than any we have had the privilege of issuing during a period of thirty-five years. ' , •• ■ . ' ■ • ■ . . ■> July 5, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. INDEX. ■ - o - ABIES ALBERTI AX A, 492 Abutiious, new varieties of, 46, 49 Abutilon and Hibiscus, cross between, bigener, 261 Acacia lophantha as standards, 364 ; iineata, 467 Acers polymorphum varie- gatum and crataigifolitim variegatnm (certificated) 497 Acids, making sulphuric and carbolic. 337 Aconites, planting Winter, 341 Adenandra fragrans, 447 Adiantum mundulum, 8; novie- caledoniai, 498 Agapetes buxifolia, 399 Allamnnda Hendersonii, prun¬ ing, 59 Allium ueapolitanum, 452, 512 Aloes, American, flowering at Oxford, 363 Alpine spoils, 387 ; plants, a prize collection of, 426 Amaryllises Acis and Achilles, 136 ; culture of, 171 ; at Chelsea, 219; George Gordon, A. F. Barron, and Or. Hogg, 220 ; Lady of the Lake, Words¬ worth, Byron, aud Tennyson, certificated, 261; Mr. Hib- berd’s lecture, 262 ; Adolphus Kent, 344 Amateur’s holiday, 32, 177, 113 ; Aberdeen, 141 American Bornological Society, 363 Ammonia aud phosphates, value of, 438 Amorphophallus campanu- latus, 491 Auemoue japonica, 46 ; in Covent Garden, 217 Angraecum cifraturn at Dublin, 176; A. articulatum certifl¬ cated, 261 Auisanthus splendens, 438 Annuals and border plants for cut flowers, 225 ; choice, raising, 285 ; selections of and sowing, 370 Anthurium ferriense certifi¬ cated, 261; splendidum, 342 Ants and Bose buds, 526 Aphis, destroying black, 539 Apples— The Cobham,83; in the north, 115 ; Warner’s Seed¬ ling, certificated, 220 ; Austra¬ lian, 375 ; cause of trees can¬ kering, 444 Apricots, branches dying, 397, 423, 443 ; estimate of varieties, 397 ; preparing trees, 443 ; in¬ sects, 423; culture of under glass, 447; branches dying, 515 Aquatics, manure for, 54 Aralia gemma, 235 Arboriculture, revival of, par¬ liamentary motions, 356 Arbour, a novel, 449 Arbutuses, propagating, 82 Ardisia crenulata, promoting flowering of, 101 Ar"ids, potting, 463 Articles, abstraction of, 216 ; manufactured, 235 Ashton Court, notes at, 324 Ash, the Manna, 6»3 Aspaiagus, sowing, 102 ; culture of under difficulties, 338; Kale, 359 ; early culture of, 446 ; special prizes for, 498 ; cut¬ ting and manuring, 523 ; fer¬ tilisers for, 549 Aubrietias, 33 Auriculas, treatment of, 24 ; notes on, 160; cross-breeding of, 169; top-dressing, select va¬ rieties, 194 ; “ strains ” of, 195 ; cross breeding and results, 2(>0 ;“ strains "of, Lovely Ann, 241 : effects of frost on, 241 ; new varieties — Greenfinch, Auriculas— continued. Monarch, Ajax, Miss Lodge, Adonis, and Carbuncle, 340; at South Kensington, 359,379; Douglas’s Conservative, 371 ; notes on culture, 388 ; show¬ ing aud handicapping, 444 ; alpines, certiflcated— Homer, Dr. Denny, A. Lloyd, Rob Roy, Roysterer, Resplendens, deli- cata, 385; at X or wood Green and Manchester, 475; new va¬ rieties of, 488 ; proposed Scottish Society, 540 Australian Apples, 375 Azalea, Duchess of Albany, 34; renovating exhausted, 82 ; destroying thrips on, 205; potting and mstnagement of, 265; pruning, 288 ; A. Anti¬ gone, 344 ; certificated— Sou¬ venir du l’rince Napoleon, 384 ; Baron N. de Rothschild, Princess Louise, Comte de Chambord, 385; Dr. Hermann Wiegel, 435 ; repotting, 436 ; hardy at Kew, 449 ; new at Ghent, 465; Nancy Waterer, 492 ; indica, hardy, 512 Azolla caroliniensis, 224 BALSAMS, culture of, 119 Bause, Mr., 134 Beaus, early for market, 61 ; forcing Kidney, 276; history of, bean-leasts, 520 Bedding plants, treatment in winter, 15 ; propagating, 134 ; propagating succulent, 184 ; planting aud arranging, 456 Beading-out, preparing lor, 311 Bedford new public park, 217 Beeches, varieties of copper and purple, 448 Bees— feeding, 15; art of keep¬ ing, 59 ; separators a neces¬ sity, 60 ; feeding in spring, 80 ; last year’s swarms, 83 ; influence of autumn feed¬ ing, introducing queens with¬ out cages, HO ; standard frame, 103 ; art of keeping, sizes for hives, 121 ; autumn feeding, 122 ; feeding in au¬ tumn, spring, and summer, 143 ; remedy for foul brood, hives uu- get- at -able, bees breeding in winter, 144; feed¬ ing effects of, Bee-keepers’ Association’s Annual Meet¬ ing, 163; small sections, best bees, 164 ; art of keeping, gathering; and extracting, 184 ; feeders for, 203 ; guides in purchasing and price of hives, 223 ; amongst snow, Mr. Edwards’ feeder, 244 ; feeding, 246 ; unget-at-able hives, 266; Bee-keepers’ Com¬ mittee aud Show fixture, 266 ; feeding, 306 ; premature swarming, 307 ; beer, brandy, and bees, 328 ; the straw StewarLon hive, 329 ; feed¬ ing and uniting, 350 ; art of supering, 370 ; autumn feed¬ ing, hives, uniting hives, straw ntewurton bees, beer, and rum, 392 ; notes on swarming, 415 ; moving, oil¬ cake pollen, 437 ; artificial swarming, appliance for driving, Show at Bridgwater, pleasure and profit, 457 ; book, review of “ Plain and Practical Bee-keeping,” swarming, reward of perse¬ verance, 480 ; bees and fruit 481 ; removing stocks, 5 2 ; mos profitable race of, 524 ; Bees — continued. art of keeping, sections, dangers, uniting and feeding, 286 Bees and horticulture, 548 Begonias, culture of Tuberous, 516; propagating, 225, 803; Prince of Wales and Dr. Duke, 435; Orange Giant, certifi¬ cated, 545 Bermuda, vegetable culture in, 471 Blackberries, American Ivitta- tinny, 519 Blight in May, 466 Blossom, abundance of in Scot¬ land, 514 Boiler, stopping leakage in, 165 ; KinneU’s horseshoe-shaped, 450 Bones, dissolving, 39 Books, reviews of, “ Rosarian’s Year Book,” 51 ; Sach’s “ Text Book of Botany,” 57 ; “ Les Plantes Potageres,”74 ; “Vines and Vine Culture,” 180; “ Herefordshire Pomona,” 263 ; Williams’ “ Greenhouse Flowering Plants,” 283 ; Ville's “ Artificial Manures,” 348 ; “ Mushrooms for the Million,” 430 ; “ Agriculture,” 46L ; “ Life on the Farm— Plant Life,” 552 Books and reading, 211 Books, catalogue of, 448 Boronia tetrandra, 536 Bossiaia tenuicaulis, 94 Botanic (Royal) Society, sea¬ weeds in gardens of, 257 Botanic (Royal) Society’s first Spring Show, 264 ; Second Spring Show, 346; First Sum¬ mer Show, 412 ; Second Sum¬ mer show, 500 Bougainvi Ilea glabra, 50 ; spec- tabilis culture, 441 Bouquets in Covent Garden, 383 Bouvardias, culture of, 502 ; re¬ potting, 524 Brainea insignis, 368 Briza maxima, 224 Broccolis and Cauliflowers, dif¬ ferences between, 279 Brussels Sprouts, 71; Reading Exhibition, 4 ; The Aigburth, 24 Budding, the scallop method, 393 Bulbs, liquid manure for, 62; under trees, 280, 325 Bullfinches and fruit blossom, 444 Bnrghley, Peaches and Grapes at, 514 CABBAGE LITTLE PIXIE, 25 ; growing and cutting, 357 ; good varieties of, 432 ; Me- Ewcn’s Early, 469 Cacti, Mr. Loder’s lecture on hardy, 386 Cal adiuni esculentum in Africa, 860 Calanthe Veitclii, treatment of, 39 ; Regnieri, 136 ; culture of, 242; cultivation of, 355; watering, 547 Calceolarias at Reading, 426 ; in beds, 446 ; at Balhain, 449 ; at Farnham Royal, 477 Cakterhead, testimonial to Mr., 403 California, scenery in and colours of flowers, 449 Camellias, causes of buds fall¬ ing, lu2 ; culture of aud varie¬ ties, 119 ; historical and cul¬ tural notes on, 209; destroy¬ ing scale on, 288 ; not expand¬ ing, 307 ; effect o cutting CAMELLIAS — continued. down, 361 ; cutting down, 416 ; Belgian, 466 ; renovating, 508 Camphor and seed germination, 303 Cannas, two good varieties, 245 Caper Spurge, 16 Capparis spinosa, 16 Carbolic acid v. insects, G6 Carbolic acid and glycerine as an insecticide, 113', 135 ; and methylated spirit, 66; and weeds, 330 Cardiff Castle Cucumber, 280 Carica, new hybrid, 221 Carnations and Picotees, treat¬ ment or, 25; culture in beds, varieties, 47 ; potting, 61 ; new varieties, 4 ; proposed show of at Slough, 176 ; in beds, old and new varieties, 276, 230 ; growing for winter, 245 ; Field Marshal, 435 Carpi t beds, arrangement of, 502 Carriage drives, edgings for, 40 Caryota excelsa, 136, 137 Caterpillars and Cabbages, 398 Cattleya Perciviliana, 135 ; Gas- kelliana, 344; nobilior, 435; Morganitc, 491 ; management of, 547 Cauliflowers and Lettuces, early varieties and management, 4; Cabbage for dairy cows, Alderney cow management, 354 ; tabular composition of various crops, 373; Lucerne, Rape cake, 374; cost of sheep feeding, 394 ; International Forestry Exhi¬ bition, 396 ; Committee of Ag¬ riculture, 396; hay-saving by machinery, 439, 459, 483, 505 ; cream cheese making, 462 ; food for cattle, 484 ; corn-sav¬ ing by machinery, 505,551 Feeding ewes, 85 Ferns, substitutes for, 196; re¬ potting, 203; dividing hardy, 222; fronds, substitutes for, 237 ; in bottles, 357 Fertilisers— Clay’s, quantity to use, 246; Sussex experiments with, 419 Figs, forcing, 120, 285 ; at Chats- worth, 468 ; second crop, 523 Filberts, pruning, 79,200; prun¬ ing ana blossoms, 255 Filmy Ferns and frost, 53 Fir-tree oil, 16 Fisheries Exhibition, decora¬ tions at, 403 Fisli, Gold, killed by water beetles, 469 Floriculture, tastes in, 66 Flower bed, a pretty, 513 Flowers , colours of, 54, 90 ; early, 174 ; from France, 196 ; heat in relation to sexes of, 514 ; choice hardy, *518 ; preserving colours of, keeping in water, 562 ; exhausting plants, 532 Flowerstand, combination, 405 Forests, in Ireland, 115 ; in Italy, 114; in .North Carolina, 319 Franeisceas, propagating, 162 Fraxinus ornus, 449 Frost, severity of and effects, 217, 221 ; in March, effects of, 256 Fruits, Beach’s preserved, 298 Fruit — forcing, 319; blossom, thinning, 361; thinning, hardy, 376; varieties of, not canker¬ ing, 379 ; prospects, 407, 424; varieties cankering and not cankering, 428 ; proposed show of at South Kensington, 444 ; prospects of in the north, 445 ; proposed national show of, 472 ; prospects in Kent, 468; fruit seeds, cleansing, 481 ; prospects in AA’orcestersliire, 513 Fruit trees — syringing, bud¬ ding, 17 ; growing on chalk soils, 29 ; planting, pruning, and training, 37 ; forcing, Beaches and Nectarines, 58; growing on chalk soils, 67 ; pruning and training, 79, 82; protecting, 101 ; planting, pruning, and protecting, l2o; culture in Russia, 135 ; pro¬ tecting blossoms of, 162 ; grubs attacking, 165; farming, ex¬ tensive, 170; culture in New South Wales, 197 ; protecting blossoms, 202 ; blossom frozen, 267 ; protecting, 242 ; spring- pruning, 284; canker in, 337: mulching, 539 ; pinching and training, 54 i Fuchsias, wintering, 39 ; new varieties, 45; Mrs, Rundell, 241 ; certificated, 220 ; origin of, 251; Bella, 492 Fungus in greenhouse, 267 GALANTHUS F I.AVES1 AND other species, 215 Gallo and gall makers, 515 Gardeners and Excise duties, 160 Gardeners, conduct of young, 172, 234 ; Jaw on taxing, 190 ; dismissal of, 482 Gardeners’ Benefit Society, 324 Gardeners’ (Royal) Benevolent Institution, appointment ol Treasurer, 156 Gardening and gardeners, 87 ; thoughts on, 134 ; Mr. Richard¬ son’s paper on, 346 Garden, my suburban, 26, 48, 91, 340; thoughts on manage¬ ment of, 530 Garden structures, 21, 88, 91, 150, 182 Gardenias, culture of, 38; buds deformed, 267 ; planting out, 398; for the million, 442 Gardiner, presentation to Mr., 218 Garrya elliptica, grafted on Aucuba japonica, 221 Gas lime for gardens, 61 Gentianas, species of, bavarica, 274 ; acaulis albus, 244 ; seed¬ ing and self-sowing, 301 Gesueria ciuuabarina, culture Of. 88 Ghent International Shotv, schedule of, 156 Ghent, M. A’an Houtte’s nursery at, 465 Gladioli for Scotland, 40; ex¬ periments with, 96; failures with, 157, 175, 178; notes on ncAV varieties, 212 ; planting and disease of, 242; culture of earty-flowering varieties, 251 ; in Scotland, 293 ; notes on, 312 ; raising from cormlets, 341 Gloxinias, culture of, 38 ; choice new varieties, 474 ; at Reading, 490 Goat farming, 83 ; and mohair, 207 Goat Show, 484 Gold fish dying, 450 Gooseberries, useful, 82 ; prun¬ ing, 109 Gooseberry Sawfiy, 481 Grafting Blums and Cherries, 62 Grafting, 118 ; cleft and notch, 130 ; crown, 155 Grapes— Muscat of Alexandria, 3 ; Madresfield Court, 5 ; notes on, 6 ; Duke of Buccleuch, late keeping, 12 ; cool-system cul¬ ture, 14 ; Black Alicautc, 23 ; Mrs. l’ince, 23; culture, coot system of, 26; aspects for, 47 ; GRAPES— conlinuecl. Golden Queen, 50 ; producing large bunches, 53 ; cracking and prevention, 61 ; bottled not keeping, 102; so-called large bunches, 201, 218, 239; thinning, twisting bunches, 230 ; temperatures for, 351 ; iveights and sizes of bunches, 372; large v. small bunches, 399 ; Duke of Buccleuch, 401 ; express growing, packing, 402; footstalks decaying, 416 ; Duke of Buccleuch footstalks decaying, 420, 464; forcing and growing, temperature for, 452; packing at Cloven- foids, pruning Duke of Buc¬ cleuch, 458 ; at Dunecvan, 513 ; Duchess of Buccleuch, 536 ; Madresfield Court, warm v. cool-liouse treatment, 533 ; thinning and scalding, 547 Grasses and Everlasting Flowers, notes on, 108 ; raising ornamental, 224 Greenhouse and its inmates— syringing and plunging, 532; an amateur's, 428 ; neat stage in, 450: the Citrus family, 535 Ground levelling, 78 Grubs, destroying in garden, 393,550; destroying with sal ammoniac. 488 Guernsey Lilies, 102 Gutta perclia, sources of, 453 HABROTHAMNUS ELEGANS argentea, 283 Hardenbergia Comptoniann,280 Heaths, repotting, 102, 306 Hedges, formation and manage¬ ment of, 126, 131 ; Conifers for, 144 Heliotrope, Swanley Giant- certificated, 385 Hellebore tea, 394 Hepaticas. 216 ; triloba, 241 Heracleum gigauteum, 538 Herbaceous borders in June, 514 Herbaceous plants, a prize col¬ lection of, 426 Hippeastruin equestrevar.semi- plenum, 511 Hooker, Sir J., and Royal Geo¬ graphical Society ,362 ; Society of Arts’ award to, 537 Hollyhocks, propagating select varieties, 215 Hop mildew, destroying, 426 Horn shavings and bone, con¬ stituents of, 526 Horsefield, death of Mr., 115 Horticultural buildings, 137 ; how to succeed, 277 Horticulture, prospects of, 311 Horticultural (Royal) Society’s Meetings, 8,33,135,220, 260,394, 344,384,435,497,544 ; privileges of Fellow's, 8; proposed officers, 50 ; Aunual Meeting and Re¬ port, 139 ; arrangements for 1883, 157 ; resumption of pro¬ vincial shows, 216; Spring Show, 260 ; proposed evening meetings, 341 ; Society’s Sum¬ mer Show, 433 ; meeting at Burlington House, 498 Horticulture, review of in 1882, 56 Horticulturists, proposed inter¬ national meeting of, 236 Hose, leather v. india-rubber, 858 Hot water as au insecticide, 256 Hot-water pipes, stopping leak¬ age in, 871 Hova campannlata, 406 Hyacinths and Tulips for ex¬ hibition, 58 Hyacinths Rink Perfection and Souvenir de J. H. \reen certi¬ ficated, 261 Hyacinthus candicans, 98; raising from seed, loi Hydrangeas, culture of, 5; dis¬ budding fiowers of, 68 Hymenocallis macrostephana, culture of, 102 Hypericums, notes on, 12, 76 IBERTS GIBRALTARICA HY- BR1DA, 435 Imantophyllumminiatum,257 ; Mrs. Laing, 862; the best va¬ rieties of, 465 Impatiens Sultani, 470; from seed, 547 Indian muslin for shading, 216 Insect enemies of garden crops, 70, 201, 345, 471 Insects on fruit trees, modes of destroying, 149, 318, 476 ; Gooseberry moth, 345 Insecticides— carbolic acid and methylated spirit, 66 Irises, difficulty of seeding, a hybrid, 386 ; Dr. Foster’s lec¬ ture on, 386 ; notes on rare, 413 ; siberica, 493 ; choice va¬ rieties of, 491 Ivy on houses, 380 ; severing stems of, 42) Ixoras, propagation of, 162 J EAY'S -EAR FUNGUS, 82 Kale, hearting curled, 362 Kalosanthes, culture of, 282 ; coccinea culture, 486 ICew, report of condition and progress, 50; earlier opening of Gardens, 156 Kitchen garden, raising early crops, 58; notes, 98,349; late¬ ness of crops, 265 Ladder for conifers, in Lambeth Palace Garden, 67 Lamium maculatum aureurn, 448 Lathraia squamaria, 330 Lawns, making and renovat¬ ing, 47, 121, 155 ; moss on, 61 ; and their surroundings, 08; mixture of seeds for, 272 ; draining and levelling, 296 ; management of in hot Aveather, 490 LaAvn tennis ground, improv¬ ing, 145 Leaf soil, Belgian and English, 333 ; notes on, 379 Leaves, forms of, 363 ; facts about, 45* Leucadendron nrgenteum, 330 Leucojum vernutn, 284 Lewisia rediviva, 49 Lilacs, preparing and forcing, 438 Lily, Bermuda Easter, 516 Lilium longiflorum in Avinler, 12 ; longiflorum, 498 ; at Du- neeA'an, 513 ; preparing for Avinter, 524 Lillesden, plants and Grapes at, 532 Lily of the A’alley, 52 ; in America, 92 ; culture and forcing, 107 ; Mr. Roberts’ pamphlet, 279 ; home-groAvn, 314, 257 ; preparing for forcing, 339 ; home-groAvu for forcing, 493 Liming land, 167 Lin mean Society, election of officers, 449 Loudon nurseries in April, 320 Luculia gratissirna at Glas- nevin, 9 ; grotving dwarf, 155 Lupiuus polyphyllus, 513, 539 Lycaste Harrisonhc alba, 344. 377 Lyne, presentation to Mr., 92 MADEIRA, VEGETATION OF, 54) Magnolia Campbeili at Lake¬ lands, 73 Maize and glucose sugar manu¬ facture, 197 Manchester Botanical Society’s report, 92 Mangricra indica, 404 Mann, presentation to Mr., 235 Manure, poultry, 39; economi¬ cal, 44 ; tlie best, 487 Marguerites in London, 490 Marseilles, proposed Inter¬ national SIioav at, 196 Masdevallia Schlimii, 304, 378; M. xanthocorys, certificated, 384 ; M. rosea, certificated, 385 Melons, potting and topping, 80; stems splitting and remedy, 195 ; preserving, late keeping Avantcd, 234 ; culture after setting, 243; culture in pots, 271 ; culture of Water, in frames, 307 ; top-dressing, 308 ; culture of, Mr. Taylor’s method, 336 ; culture in frames, 405 ; watering and mulching, 456 ; toppiug and training, 458 ; notes on, 501 ; gumming and canker, 504; not SAvelling, 549 Menyanllies trifoliata, 330 Meteorological observations in Notts, 297 Meteorological Society, meet¬ ing of, 9, 78 ; exhibition of instruments, 176 Methylated spirit v. mealy bug, 66 Microcaclirys tetragona, 35 Mimuluses certificated — mos- chatus grandiflorus, m. rubra, liose-in-hosc, 386 ; radicans, 497 Mistakes in gardening, 529 Moles, banishing, 283 Monifietli nurseries, 499 Monstera deliciosa, 303 Moss litter, German, 279 Murucuja, fruits of in C’ovent Garden, 383 Muscari Heldreichi, 215 Mushroom culture at Liverpool, 9 ; culture outdoors, 49 ; beds, liquid manure for, 123 ; de¬ stroying insects in, 165, 216 ; preserving, 832 : on ridges, 360 ; for the Million. 403 ; in vinery, 427 ; Mr. Wright’s treatise on, 430 ; groAving in moss, 442; Culture for Ama¬ teurs, 491 ; manure for, 526 NARCISSUS IN POTS, REFEIt- ence to lists, 225 ; dAA-arf early varieties of, 283 ; incompara- hilis pallidus, Princess Marie, 344; bulbocodium in nots, 362, 382 ; Mr. Heuslow’s lec¬ ture on, 406 ; double Poet’s, 438 Nepenthes, culture of, 198; variet’es for decoration, 200; at Clielsea, 474 Neplirodiuin Rodigasianum, certificated, 384 Newcastle Spring ShoAV, 387 Nicotiana afflni-,295 Nightingales in Kent, 511 Nitrogen, too much, 464 ; too" much and too little, 492 ; use of, 514 Nursery sick fund, 360; atSaw- bridgeAvorth,399 Nymplnca stellata var. zanzi- harensis, 491 ODONTOGLOSSUM MADRENSE Aar. giganteum, 34; Alexan¬ dra:, 44; Scotti and crispum aureurn magniticum, 163 ; Alexandra:, culture of, 150 ; Alexandra: at Drumlanrig, 176 ; gloriosum var. pictum, 321 ; polyxanthum grandi- florum, 344; Ruckerianum, 423 ; cordatum var.,377 ; vexil- larium splender.s, polyax- thum grandiflorum, 378 ; vex- illarium albicans, certifi¬ cated, 384 ; elegaus, certifi¬ cated. 385 Oneidiums, notes on, 23 ; ltogersii, 69 Onions— winter and spring, de¬ signation of, 246 ; transplant¬ ing, 466 Oplirys aranifera, 415 Orange, Myrtle-leaved, 17 ; at SaAvbridgeAvorth, 72 ; home culture of 108, 535 ; trees and Mytilapsis citriocola, 261 Orcliella Aveed. products of, 471 Orchids— in floAver at Fernside, 79 ; in CoA’ent Garden, 114 ; at Keiv, 114; at Davenham Bank, 133 ; at Chelsea, 175 ; sales, 225 ; Fern roots for potting, 234 ; coot tempera¬ tures for at Fernflcld, 240 ; repotting and compost for, 243 ; at Walthamstow, 304 ; at Breutliam Park, 323 ; at Clovenfords, 402 ; sale of Lord Egerton’s,404; at IveAv, 404,448; Mr. Bull’s exhibition of, 423 ; at Giasnevin, 427 ; Mr. Pea¬ cock’s, 449 ; at UollBAvay, 454 ; pott ing, 463; sale of Brentham Park collection, at Trauby Court, 469 ; Mr. Williams’ Album, 470 ; at Messrs. Vei toll’s, 472 ; at Bridgewater, 474; at Selborne, 477 Orchis macuiata for gardens, 538 Oxlips from seed, 3S6, 401 PALMS, POTTING, 306 Panicum plieatum, 174 Pansies and insecticides, 381, 425 Pansy (Scottish) Society and unnamed flOAvers at, 538; origin of, 539 ; ShOAV, 542 Paraffin oil in vineries, 512 Parsnip, culture of, 29 Past, present, and future of gar¬ dening, 1 Pasture, barren, 440 Paterson’s (Dr.) garden, 240 Peaches, glands of, 39 ; trees, protecting stems of, syring¬ ing blossoms of, 82 ; syringing, 123 ; disbudding, temperature for, 162; a land of, ls7 ; forcing, 243 ; disbudding, thinning, and training, 250 ; disbudding, 312 ; falling, 330 ; Alexandra, certificated, 384; disbudding, July 5, 188S. J JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER YU PEACHES— continued. 413; renovating trees, 416; ripening wood of, 523 ; repot¬ ting trees, 524 ; on walls at Hawkhurst, 533 ; sewage for, 546 ; leaves eaten, 550 Pears — Passe Crasanne, 5 ; Easter Beurre and Beurre Ranee, 11, 21,48, 50,70 ; Jose¬ phine de Malines, 13 ; ripen¬ ing and preseiving, tuugus germs, 43: renovating old trees, 17; Easter Beurre vari¬ able, 111; in the north, 114; on the Continent, winter Bon Chretien, 107 ; fruitful varie¬ ties in Kent, 538 Pear caterpillar, Hybenaria de- foliaria, 458 Peas, sowing early, 14 ; Duke of Albany, 22; history of, 132; Adnitt’s protectors for, 134; value of protectors, 172 ; Hooper’s prizes for, 175 ; Ame¬ rican Wonder, 540 Pelargoniums, new varieties, 46; potting and culture, 163; cul¬ ture and varieties for winter, 259; Zonal, for winter, 300 ; culture of Show decorative, 336; Guillon Hangilli, 342; cross between Showy and Fancy varieties, 491 ; Dr. Masters, Fanny Hayes, Gari¬ baldi, formosum, certificated, 498 ; Chelsea Gem, 533 Pelargonium Society, 27 Peristeria elata, 185 Peseatorea Lehmannii certifi¬ cated, 220 Petrea volubilis, 404 Petroleum as an insecticide, 119 Petunias, culture of double, 62 ; for exhibition, 267 ; in pots, 456 Phaltenopsis Yeitchiana, 11 ; leuchorrhoda, 136 ; leucor- rhoda var. and Esmeralda, 218; Sanderiana, certificated, 384 Philadelphus mexicanus, 435 Phloxes for late flowering, 160 ; good varieties, 164 Photographs of flowers, Stevens’ 92 Phylloxera and the French vineyards, 320 Picotees, new, 29 Pictures, Miss North’s, 140 Pigeons, parasites on, 86 Pilea serpylifolia, 444 Pimelea elegans, 531 Pines for fruiting, 17 ; culture, 89 ; fruit discoloured, 101 Pinguicula caudata, 279 Pinks, mule, 83 ; choice garden, 539, 550 ; propagating, 548 Pinus insignis in shallow soils, 4 Piptanthes nepalensis, 413 Pit, cheap span-roofed, 438, 526 Pitch Pines and enemy, Re- tinia frustraua, 471 Plant houses, cleansing, 15 Plants, climbingfora porch, 17 ; covering herbaceous, 30 ; new and certificated in 1882, 30 ; Messrs. Cannell’s new and cer¬ tificated, 45 ; Mr. Bull’s new and certificated, 74 ; for a dark conservatory, 131 ; dividing herbaceous, 142 ; watering, 152; repotting fiue-foliaged, 203; choice hardy in flower, 215; and weather changes, 258; moisture-loving, 274 ; for shady positions, 320; insec¬ tivorous, 532; in New Zea¬ land, 540 Pleroma elegans, 455 Plowman, presentation to Mr., 440 Plum gall mite, Phytoptus l’runi, 482 Poinsettias, propagating, 501 Polyanthuses, degeneration of, 401 Polygonatums, 435 Polygonums sachalinense and aipinum, 539 Polystichum acrosticliioides grandiceps, 498 Poplars destroyed by frost, 71 Potash, silicate of and its uses, 482 Potatoes, experiments with, 35 ; a trial of, 67; extent of Ameri¬ can importation, 72 ; number and weight for' planting an acre, 82 ; as a fixed crop, cost and profits of culture, 125; disease, 112; Magnum Bonum for market, 113 ; Foster’s Seedling, 114 ; election of for table and market, 129 ; Inter¬ national Exhibition fixture, 134 ; for table and market, 153 ; disease and “sclerotia,” 221, 251, 261 ; requirements of dif¬ ferent varieties, 227 ; effects of manure on, 238 ; timetoplant, 247 ; Californian species, 261 ; strong-growing and soil-ex¬ haustion, 270 ; applying ma¬ nures, 287 ; profitable grow- POTATOES — continued, ing, 295 ; planting on surface, 299 ; growing profitably, pro¬ posed prizes for and raising seedlings, 334 : for table and market in Cheshire and Corn¬ wall, 172 ; in Cumberland, Der¬ by shire, Devonshire, and Dur¬ ham, 173 ; in Essex, 174 ; in Gloucestershire and Hamp¬ shire, 191 ; in Herefordshire, Hertfordshire. Huntingdon¬ shire, and Kent, 192 ; in Kent, Lancashire, and Lincolnshire, 213 ; in Middlesex, Monmouth¬ shire, and Norfolk, 214 ; in Nottinghamshire, 215 ; in Northamptonshire, 231; in Northumberland, Notts, Ox¬ ford, Rutlandshire, Shrop¬ shire, and Somersetshire, 232 ; in Staffordshire, Suffolk, and Surrey, 233 ; in Sussex, 253 ; in Warwickshire, Wiltshire, and Worcestershire, 254 ; in Yorkshire, 255 : in Wales, 275; in Scotland, 302; in Ireland, 347, 367 ; at the Antipodes, 383 ; prospects of crop in Ireland, 533; disease in Wales, 537 ; and sclerotia, 545 Pothos aurea, 516 Potting sheds, notes on, 65 Poultry, challenge cups, 19 ; fowl crop-bound, 20 ; in 1882, 42 ; gapes in fowls, leg- weak¬ ness, 42 ; points of Silver-laced Bantams, 64 ; Dorking chal¬ lenge cup, feeding chickens, 85; lime water for, suffering from cramp, 86; notes on Dorking challenge cup, 105; illustrations of birds, Aber¬ deen and Belfast Shows, 106 ; scaly legs and remedy, 106 ; Cuckoo fowls, 126 ; in France, effects of wet weather inju¬ rious, roup and a remedy, 148 ; eggs and the hatching season, 168; a new paper, English and French poultry-keepers, 188; the Dorking challenge cup, “Table Poultry,” 208 ; the egg, 228 ; foreign egg supply, 290 Poultry Club meeting, election of officers, 86 Pratia angulata, 545 Primulas, obconica, 10; cross¬ breeding of, 169; raising seed¬ lings, 243; packets of seed, 319 ; sinensis, varieties of, 826 ; P. scotica, 337, 412 Pritchardia grandis, 545 Pteris serrulata eristata lace- rata, 31 ; serrulata Cowani, certificated, 253 Pyrethrums, propagating double, 504 PLANTS CERTIFICATED— Acantliophippium Curtisi, 413 ; Acer polymorphum variega- tum, A. crataigifolium varie- gatum, 497 ; Adiantum nova;- caledoniic. 498; Amaryllis Acis and Achilles, 136 ; George Gordon, A. F. Barron, and Dr. Hogg, 220 ; Lady of the Lake, Wordsworth, Byron, and Ten¬ nyson, 281; Adolphus Kent, 344 ; Angnecnm articulatum, 261 ; Anthurium ferriereme, 261 ; Auriculas— Dr. Denny, A. Lloyd, Rob Roy, Roysterer, resplendens, Homer, 385 ; deli- cata, 386; William Coomber, Richard Gorton, Ouida. 413; Azalea Antigone, 344 ; Baron N.de Rothschild, 384 ; Duch¬ ess of Albany, 34 ; Deutsche Perle, 220 ; Souvenir de Prince Napoleon, 381; Princess Louise, Comte de Cham- bord, 385 ; Madame Van Hontte, 413 ; Dr. Hermann Wiegel, 435 ; Begonia gogo- ensis,413; Little Gem, Canary Gem, Prince of Wales, Queen of Doubles, Sir Garnet, Cla- rinda, 413 ; Black Douglas, Mrs. Morgan, Queen of Scots, 425 ; Dr. Duke, 435; Orange Giant, Prince Albert, Zenobia, 545 ; Caladium Luddemanni- anum, C. cardinale, C. Verdi, 413; C.ornatum,425 ; Calanthe Regnieri, 136; Cattleya Gas- kelliana,344; C. tricolor, 413 ; C. nobilior, 435 ; Carnation Field Marshall, 435 ; Cinera¬ rias Captain Edwards and Colonel Clarke, 220 ; Princess of Wales, Mr. Herrin, and Duke of Edinburgh, 261 ; Victory, 136 ; Clematis John Brown, 344; Colax ju- gosus punctata, 385 ; Coleus Canary Bird, 413 ; Columnea Kalbreyeri, 384 ; Cycas ele- gantissima, 498; Cymbidium Devonianum, 384 ; Cypripe- dium recurvipetalum, 413 ; Davallia brachycarpa, 413 ; PLANTS CERTIFICATED— COU. Delphinium Dick Sand, 545 ; Dendrobium leucophytum, 413; 1). Dearei.435 ; D. nobile nobilius, 220; D. Wardianum Waddellianum, 220 ; Epiden- drum Frederici (,ulielmi,413 ; Fuchsia Mrs. Rnndell, 220; Heliotrope Swanley Giant. 385; Hyacinth Pink Perfection and Souvenir de ,T. H. Veen, 261; Hydi'angea rosea, 497; Impatiens Suftani, 425 ; iberis gibraltarica hybrida, 435 ; Leucothoe Davisise, 545 ; Lilium longiflorum of Ber¬ muda, 498; Lycaste Harrisoni alba, 344 ;MasdevalliaSclilimi, 304; M. xantlioeorys, 384 ; M. rosea, 385 ; Maxillaria luteo- alba,413 ; Mimulus mosehatus grand iflorus, Hose-in-Hose, moscliatus rubra, 386; radi- cans, 497 ; Narcissus iucom- parabilis pallidus Princess Mary, 344 ; Nephrodium Rodi- gasianum, 384 ; Ochna multi- flora, 413 ; Odontoglossum madrense var. giganteum, 34 ; O. Scottii and O. crispum aureum magnificum, 136 ; O. polyxanthum grandiflorum, 344; O. vexillarium albicans, 384 ; O. elegans, 385 ; Pelar¬ gonium Dresden China, 425; Dr. Masters, 497 ; Garibaldi, Fanny, formosum, 498; Pesca- torea Lehmanni, 220 ; Phalse- nopsis lencorrlioda alba, 136 ; P. Sanderiana, 884 ; Poly¬ stichum acrostichioides gran¬ diceps, 498; Pratia angulata, 545 ; Pritchardia grandis, 545 ; Prunus Pichardi, 413 ; Rhodo¬ dendron Princess Christian and Baroness Schroder, 136 ; triumphans, 261; Scarlet Crown, 384; Greavesii, 413; Diadem. 545; Rose Mignonette and W. Francis Bennett, 261 ; R. Merveille de Lyon, White Baroness, 344; Princess of Wales, 497 ; Henry Schultheis, Mrs. George Dickson, Violette Bouyer, 545 ; SarcoDOdium Dearii, 497 ; Scuticaria Dodg- soni, 344 ; Tropseolnm Lus¬ trous, 498 ; Verbena Delicata, Mabel, Miss Maynard, Fan¬ tastic, 542 ; Viola Queen of Whites, 422; Wormia Bur- bid gei, 384 ; Zygopetalum crinitum giganteum, 220 QUASSIA WATER, MAKING', 164, 165 RABBITS, FENCING AGAINST, 305 Rainfall and sunshine, 481 Rainfall, returns of. 72; at Eccle- fechan, 113 ; in Cheshire and Ireland, 134 ; heavy, recerd of at Glenlee, 157 Ranunculus aquatilis, 545 Raspberries, good varieties, 82 ; pruning, 330 Reading, an hour at, 77 Red spider, destroying, 245 Retinosporas, sporting, 221 Rhodoehiton volubile, 2.38 Rhododendrons, cutting down, 123 ; Princess Christian and Baroness Schroder, 136 ; tri¬ umphans certificated, 261 ; Nuttalli, 341 ; Nuttalli at Croydon, 363; Scarlet Crown, certificated, 384 ; Dalhousiie, 403; Sikkim at Regent’s Park, 404 ; a trio of new, 465 ; at Kew, 470; Diadem, 545 Rhubarb, historical notes on, 282 ; Buck’s Scarlet, 393 ; va¬ rieties of, 404 Rhynchospermum jasminoides culture, 80 Ribes speciosum, 89 Ricliardia aithiopica, culture of, 12 ; easy culture of, 57 : sum¬ mer culture of, 452 Rivulet, a pretty, 518 Roller, “ universal” garden, 340 Rookery, undergrowth for, 72 Root-extension v. restriction, 252 Rose shows, 324 Roses and Camellias, pruning Marechal Niel, 416 Roses— MarCehal Niel, 28 ; at Dunkeld, 32 ; for beds, list of, 15; Marechal Niel on Briar stocks, 68 ; my box of twenty- four, 95; planting, 101; prnni ng climbing, 121 ; forcing, 121 ; notes on certificated varieties, 127 ; for house and garden, for smoky district, 145 ; show fixtures, 156 ; planting, 165 ; se- ROses— continued. lectclimbers, pruning, 203.238, 256; calyx Liliaceous. 225; Lady Mary Fitzwill lam, 256; Migno¬ nette and W. F. V.ennett certi¬ ficated. 261 ; notes on pruning, 287 ; Charles Darwin, 280 ; William Allen Richardson, 284 ; failures of Marechal Niel, 287 ; early or late pruning, 298. 318 ; effects of frost on, spring, v. autumn planting. 299 ; from cuttings, 301 ; oxide of iron for, 308 ; on stocks v. own roots, 338 ; White Baroness, Merveille de Lyon, 844 ; Messrs. W. Paul & Son’s, at Regent’s Park, 362; Yellow Afghan, 303 ; cuttings v. stocks, 379 ; Souvenir d’un Ami, 381 ; striking cuttings, 421; Reine Marie Antoinette, 426 ; too-much-alike, 430, 444 ; boxes for showing, 438; show¬ ing in trebles, 444 ; unpruned for early blooms, 445 ; special prizes for at Darlington, 450 ; on their own roots, 457 ; the outlook, 476 ; destroying orange fungus on, 481 ; raising stocks on budding, 493 ; Prin¬ cess of Wales, (certificated), 497 ; prizes for bouquets, 504 ; from cuttings, 509; introduc¬ tion of Moss, 526 ; from cut¬ tings, results, 534; disbud¬ ding, 547; Violette Bouyer, Henrich Schultheis, and Mrs. George Dickson, certificated, 545 SADLElt, MR., BOTANICAL ramble with, 55 ; proposed memorial to late, 234 ; fund for family of late, 360 Salvias for winter, 371 Sawbridgeworth nursery sick fund, 52 Sawdust, uses of in gardens. 102 Saxifraga Stracheyi, 284; cym¬ bal aria, 3 i3 Scale, methods of destroying, 386 Schlumbergia Morreniana, 362 Science in cultivation, 487, 419 Scilla biflora and varieties, 215 Scott, Major-General, death of, 319 Seakale, historical notes on, 282 ; planting, 335 Seeds, collections of, 7 , 110, 157 ; disappointment with, 114; re¬ port of, 167 Selaginella grandis, 431 Selborne Gardens, 477 Senecio pulcher, propagating, 109 Shade and shading, 507 Shading greenhouses, modes of, 287 Shallots, notes on, 128 Shetland, flower culture in, 50 SHOWS— Bath, 400; Bath and West of England Society’s Show, 474 ; Bristol Spring, 236; National Society’s South¬ ern (Auricula), 339 ; Crystal Palace, 425 ; Dublin Spring, 341 ; Edinburgh Spring, 296 ; Ghent International, 314 ; Liverpool Spring, 252 ; Man¬ chester (Auricula), 366 ; Man¬ chester, 408 ; Manchester (Tulip), 478 ; Reading, 421 ; Rochdale (Auricula), 389 ; York Floral Face, 520 ; Chert- sey District, 536 ; Leeds, 543 ; Pelargonium Society, 545 Shrubberies, thinning and ar¬ ranging, 58 Shrubs and Conifers, pruning, 183 Shrubs, moving large, 231 Sisyrinchium grandiflorum, 215 Snails, entrapping and evading, 307 Snelling, death of Mr., 156 Soils, aeration of, 238 Solanums — Heudersonii, 55 ; capsicastrum culture, 174 ; tuberous, in California, 201 Southampton Horticultural So¬ ciety-report, 72 ; prosperity of, 298 Spinach Monstrueuse, certi¬ ficated, 384 Spyers, Mr. J. C., death of, 319 Staphylea coichica, 303 Steptmnotis floribund.*., culture ot, 7 ; culture of, 52 ; propaga¬ tion and culture of, 101 Stigmaphyllon eiliatum, 361 St. John’s Worts, notes on, 76 Stirling, notes about, 239 Stonework, cleaning, 185 Stove plants, repotting, 162 St. Petersburgh International Exhibition, postponement of, 278 S t ra wberry-eati ii g beet le,cat cli- ing, 511 Strawberries— banks, 32 ; cul¬ ture in pots, 37, 99 ; La Gros-e Sucree for forcing, 276 ; VI- comtesse Hericart de Thury, 323 ; Stirling Castle, 324 ; La Grosse Sucree, 858 ; weight of Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, 402 ; crystallising, 415 ; preparing for forcing, 492; King of Earlies,497 ; watering and mulching, 515 ; gardens at Chertsey, novel method of selling fruit at, 537 ; layering, 546 Sulphate of ammonia and Pota¬ toes, 351 Sulphate of ammonia for vege¬ tables, 441 Sulphuric r. carbolic acid and weeds, 337 Sulphur water, 4 )6 ; making, 513 Sunflowers, culture of in fields, 248 Sutlon & Sons, prizes offered by, 72 Sweet Briars for hedges, 93 Sweet William, spiral torsion in, 545 Sycamore, the Golden, 468 TABERN.EMONTANA, FLOW- ers falling, 101 ; propagating, 162 Table plants at Wimbledon, 366 Tacsonia manicata, 301 ; exo- niensis, 351 Temperature, high in winter, 8 ; low at night beneficial, 492 Thyrsacanthus rutilans propa¬ gation, 351, 534 Tillandsia, miniature, at Glas- nevin, 93 Tithes, extraordinary, project for abolition, 176 Toads, hybernation and uses of, 422 Tomatoes, varieties and cul¬ ture, 222, 378. 422 Tree moving, light machine for, 174 Trees, planting on waste lands, 50 ; for the seaside, 145 ; for moist soil, 185; planting in Ireland, 197 ; growth of, 237 ; in wet weather, 197 ; “an angry,” 319 ; protecting stems, 372 Trees and shrubs injured by rabbits, 326 Trichopilia lepida, 322 Tropaiolum Lustrous, 498 ; Her- m ine Grashoff at Lil lesden,532 Tudgev, Mr., and future ex¬ hibiting, 50 Tulbaghia \ iolacea, 489 Tulipa Clusiana in Persia, 221 Turf cutting and laying, 13 Turf pots, 318 Turnip, Extra Early Milan (cer¬ tificated), 497 Tussilago fragrans, 23 VALVE, MESSENGER’S, 164 ; new Reliance Rotary, 475 Vanda teres Andersoni, fine specimen of, 530 Vegetables, select vareities of, 25 ; historical notes on, 84, 133, 446, 520; importation of, 197 ; useful, 359 ; profits of new and costly, 532 Vegetation, early in Perthshire, 92 Veitch’s, Messrs., novelties, 10 ; purchase of nursery, 51 Ventilation, notes on, 22, 88, 258, 318, 380, 510 ; growing plants without, 482 Verbenas, propagating and growing, 539 ; Delicata, bliss Slaynard, Mabel, and Fan¬ tastic, certificated, 545 Villa gardens, Mr. Mawley's 516 Vinegar and yeast plants, 351 Vinery, growing Peaches and Figs in, 40 Vines and phylloxera in France, 13o . Vines— planting, 9 ; inarching, 17; writers on, 56 ; renovating old, 62; raising in turf, young wood, 71 ; fertilising blossoms, starting cut-backs, 80; graft¬ ing, 82 ; on greenhouse wall, T02 ; fruiting in pots, pruning Gros Guillaume, 103 ; management of early, 120 ; pruning inarched, raising in turves, pigmy, 123; in lime rubbish, 161; too luxuriant, 165 ; grafting, 181 ; bleeding, disbudding, 185 ; planting, uncovering, 180 ; lifting in March, 189, 237,253; stopping bleeding with alum, 195 ; temporary, 204 ; In pots, shift- JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER viii [July 8, 1883. VINES— conti ruled. ing, abortive bunches on.20.5 ; temperature for, disbudding, management after lifting, 224 ; manuring, fruiting in pots, air roots, 225 ; removing tendrils, 267 ; stopping laterals, modes of pruning, growing in pots, 268 ; tying laterals of, 274 ; bleeding, 278; cropping, 287 ; bleeding and cold water cure, 279; renovating, manuring, 307 ; tendrils, removing, 318 ; scorched by ammonia vapour, 330: mildew, destroying, 376 ; methods of pruning, 401 ; enervation and restoration of, 402 ; renovating, dead cells in Vines — continued. foliage, 416 ; inarching with young wood, 446 ; planting in summer, 482; striking young growth of, 488; mildew on. removing material from bor¬ der, stopping laterals, graft¬ ing and inarching, 504 ; not growing, 528: common sense about borders, 535; enfeeble- ment and renovation of, 547 Vineyard at West Lynn, 533 Violets, culture of in frames, 17 ; odorata pendula of New York, 26 ; culture of, 445 ; Marie Louise, 376 Vitis gongylodes, 405 WALLFLOWERS, SOWING AND growing, a4l ; from cut.iings, 427; Cranford Beauty, 422 Walks, making gravel, 15 Walls, wiring for trees 82 Ward, death of Mr. William, 73 Wasps on Cot.oneaster, destroy¬ ing nests, 458 Waste water, 518 Watering and drainage, 194 Watering and keeping soil moist, 485 Watering gardens, 481 Watering, notes about, 93 Watering vegetables, 504 Water supply for gardens, 221, 358 Weather and work, 299 Weather— effects of mild, 78 ; Mr. Mawley's work on, 175; coldness of and its effects on vegetation, 256, 257 ; favour¬ able change in, 278 : in Staf¬ fordshire, 279 ; sudden change in, 341 ; record of cold in March. 342 ; in April, 383 ; during May in Notts, 492 Weigela rosea at Margam, 490 West Brighton Nurseries, late Mr. Miles, 216 Willows, grafting Kilmarnock, 393 Wine harvest in Algeria, 114 Wireworms, extirpating, 459 Wormia Bubidgei, certificated, Wrench, death of Mr. Robert, 72 Yew hedge, planting and pruning, 177 Yew, large, at Ormiston, 468 Yucca gloriosa Yariegata, 513 ZYGOPETALUM MACEATI, true, 178 ; Mackayi and vat ie- ties, 193 ; crinltum giganteum certificated, 220 W 0 0 D C U T S. PAGE Abutilons, varieties . . 49 Acacia lineata . 467 Adenandra fragrans . 447 Agapetes buxifolia . 399 Allium neapolitanum . 451 Anthurium splendidum . 343 Bees, appliance for driving . 457 Blackberry, Kittatluny . 519 Boronia tetrandra . 536 Bossirea tennicaulis . 94 Briza maxima . 224 Caryota excelsa . 137 Chrysanthemum coronarium Aurora . 500 „ Star of Whyke . 45 Clematis cirrhosa . 308 „ indlvisa . 239 Crinodendron Hookcrlanum . 97 Crinum Kirkii . 429 Crossandra inf undibnliformis . 75 Currant clear wing . 472 Cypripedium albo-purpureum . 473 „ Lowii . 153 „ species . 116 Drumlanrig, gardener’s house at . 159 Dutch barn and silo . 269 Egg . 227 Epidendrum nemorale . 365 „ replicatum . . 411 PAGE Erytkronium grandiflorum . 381 Ferns in bottles . 357 Filbert blossoms . 255 Garden view in Maderia— Quinta St. Anna .... 541 Gentiana bavarian . 274 Gooseberry sawfly . 47 i Grafting . 118, 130, 131, 155 Grapes, cluster of . 53 ,, Lady Downe’s (Clovenfords) . 313 Habrothamnus elegans argentea . 283 Hardenbergia Comptoniaua . 281 Hippeastrum equestre semiplenum . 511 Horse Chestnut, double-flowering . 199 Hoya campanulata . 407 Iris Iberica . 385 Microoacrys tetragona . 35 Nicotiana affinis . 295 Odontoglossum cordatum var . 377 „ gloriosum pictnm . 821 „ Ruckerianum . 423 Oncidium macranthum . 23 „ Marshallianum . 25 „ Rogersii . . 69 Pears, Passe Crasanne . 5 Phalrenopsis Esmeralda . 219 „ leucorrhoda . 219 „ Yeitchiana . 11 Pimelea elegans . . . 531 PAGE Pleroma elegans . 455 Potbosaurea . 547 Primula obconioa . 10 „ scotica . 337 Pteris serrulata cristata laeerata . 31 Rabbits, fencing against . 305 Ram, Angora . . 104 Rhodochiton volubile . 259 Ribos stamineum . 89 Roller, “ Universal ” . 340 Roses, budding . 494, 495 Sarracenia . 550 Selaginella grandis . 432 Senecio pulcher, root-cutting of . 109 Stigmaphylloa ciliatum . 36 1 Tacsonia manicata . sol Tree-moving machine . 174 Trichopilia lepida . 325 Tulbaghia violacea . 489 Turf pots . 318 „ lifting . is „ racer . 13 Valve, Reliance Rotary . 475 Vine-grafting . 181 Zygopetalnm intermedium . 195 „ Mackayi . 179,193 January 4, 1883 ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 4th Tn 5th F 6th s 7th SUN 1st Sunday after Epiphany. [Covent Garden. 8th M Sale of Liliums and other Bulbs at Messrs. Stevens’s Rooms, 9 th Tu Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees at 10 th W [11 A.H. THE PAST, PEE SENT, AND FUTURE. ^^SgACIi one of these (past, present, and ~ ■' future) lias a marvellous power over us, though it is sometimes said that the young live in the future, the old in the Pas^ 5 yet this, like all general expres- sions, is only partly true. The young ’fyl have their past as well as the old. This was vividly brought before me by overhearing two little children at play — two quite little fel¬ lows, one six years old, the other only three. Having wearied themselves with romping they both sat down hot and dishevelled, the thought being “ What’s to be the next game ? ” when the elder broke in with the words, “ Willie, let’s talk of the dear old times.” “ What are they, Harry ?” said the lesser. “ Why, when you were at Weymouth and rode on a donkey.” And they talked of those dear old times — just a few months ago ! Verily these tiny ones had their past. So have all, whether young or middle- aged or old, mixing with their present, while something ahead, usually, we will hope, something bright, is in the future of almost all. But at no time of our lives are past, present, and future so much with us as at the beginning of another year. All three are with us. May they all be with us at this time for our good. The thoughtful gardener — and he alone is a good gardener — while he looks to im¬ mediate duty, yet naturally thinks of past successes or failures ; and even his very preparations for next season compel him to think of the future. A garden itself points forwards and backwards too, as saith the poet : — - “ Fruits are born of flowers ; Peach and roughest nut were blossoms in the spring.” To gardeners I would say, as their life is becoming more and more a struggle, when, as now, where one situation is vacant there are fifty applicants for it — The men to get on and hold on are those who are thoughtful as well as active. A notable result of thought I may mention in connection with this Journal. The past year has produced no papers of higher type in garden¬ ing than those entitled “ Vines at Longleat, their His¬ tory and Management,” and what thought they reveal ! How the writer is constantly referring to the past! Had he not noticed accurately, and perhaps “taken a note ” of his Vines of 1870, he would not have written so well in 1880. An observant mind necessarily stores up observations for future use. I had written thus far when the leading article of last week’s Journal came into my hand, and with this paper of mine in my mind I read the old spademan’s account of his experience of fifty years (a past, indeed, of no ordinary length) with unusual interest. With him I desire to sing no dirges over the past. The squires’ gardens, owing to the reduced rents on land, may be going down ; but think of those around every city and large town, from swarthy Birmingham to fair Bath. If Cowper nearly a hundred years ago could say or sing — “ The villas with which London stands begirt, Like a dusk Indian with his belt of beads,” what would he say now, where there are hundreds of upper-class villas and, of course, gardens, when in his day there were units ? Like the letters now and then : now they are many and small, then they were the few and the large. So, of course, there are more places to fill, and may the best men always fill them. The love of flowers is ever increasing, and this goes hand-in-hand with refinement and a nicer attention, not only to people’s wants, but their wishes and cravings. If you take any popular history of England, say Knight’s, you will there learn how sparely houses were furnished two hundred years ago, not to go fur¬ ther back ; how carpets were not, but floors covered with rushes or sand ; how a bedroom had little more than a bed, a table — a small one — and one of those oak chests now eagerly bought up by the curious. Then in after years in another century there were those better, but sparely, furnished rooms with which Mr. E. Caldecott’s little books have made all familiar. The oak chest gave place to the chest of drawers, and the one chair to several of more convenient size ; but now see what refinement and good taste have made bedrooms, to say nothing of drawing-rooms. And now I come to the special point. Flower vases of artistic shape are in all rooms. Refinement increases a sense of beauty in house and furniture, and with them a love of flowers and of their possession necessarily increase. Gardens are in themselves good things, pleasure-giving things, and the love of them goes hand-in-hand with better manners — in short, with increased civilisation. Never did man understand the comforts of life as now : better, more convenient, houses, and furnishing and adornments ; and what adornments so cherished as flowers ? and how many more receptacles for flowers one sees in shop windows ! Yet even to descend to the kitchen garden, man’s better understanding his own body makes him more value fruits and vegetables. But in praising the present let none slight, still less despise, the past men. To the men with the poor mechanical appliances of old times be all the praise. We need not go back to those whom Tennyson calls — “ The grand old gardener and his wife,” meaning Adam and Eve, but take those whose lives were only a few years since given in our Journal. Take only one, old Gerard : what a grand man he was of observation and knowledge — knowledge because of observation ! This age with all its advantages does not give any giants in any walk of life, no second Shalcespeares, or Bacons, or Newtons. Revere the past men, while you rejoice in the present means of carry¬ ing out great ideas. In olden days the men were often beyond the means, now the reverse full often. I think we need a little more variety in gardens, they are too much alike. Victor Hugo has said that “ Nothing stifles one like perpetual symmetry or sameness.” “Symmetry,” he goes on to say, “is Ho. 132.— yoL. VI., Third serie^. ho. 1788.— VOL. LXIS., Old Series, 2 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c January 4, ms. ennui, and ennui is the very essence of melancholy.” Man’s mind loves variety. How at our flower shows this year people crowded around to see and admire the many single Dahlias shown ! I think there is room for the introduction of more variety in gardens. This is a hint which landscape gardeners may take. "With our climate, taste and skill count for everything. It is not with us in England as with the people of California, of which country this year wrote Miss Gordon Cummiug, “Gardening here must he a delight when I look at the almost spontaneous growth of everything ; for here (California) as in Australia all manner of plants grow side by side, and make no difficulty about acclimatisation. The Loquat, the Grape Vine, and the Lemon grow beside English Ivy and Oak, while the ground is carpeted with Violets and Lilies.” Then she makes one’s mouth water with such descriptions as these : — “ Imagine a Fuchsia which in less than three years completely covers a house 70 feet in length and three storeys high, climbing right to the roof, and loaded with blossom ; or a Geranium bush G feet high and 18 feet round, with a thousand heads of blossom at the same moment.” Then she tells us of “a Bose bush which produces 15,000 to 20,000 Eoses yearly. There is a famous Eose tree at Santa Bosa — suitable name — which is 27 feet high and 22 in diameter ; its stem measures 24 inches at the base, and rises 12 feet before throwing out a single branch. It is called La Marque,” (a name well known to Bose-growers and lovers), “ and is a pure white Eose,” the centre not noticed perhaps by Miss C., “and has sometimes 5000 blossoms in full beauty at the same moment, and” — but I will not transcribe more pictures for fear of driving “D Deal,” Mr. Hinton, and the rest of the Eose fraternity stark- staring mad with jealousy. But if we cannot have such flowers, still our little gardens are, what John Evelyn called them long ago, “places of sweet retirement,” and never were such places of sweet retirement more, or so much, needed as now. With nerves worn by hard city work, when even the short railway journey from his villa to town each day wearies, and the whistle and scream of the engine almost madden, how precious to the man of business — he who is “ something in the city,” that something taking in all varieties of people from mer¬ chant to clerk — but how welcome to each and all are at evening, and on Sunday specially, such “ places of sweet retirement ” as their gardens, small or large, the former often quite as much prized as the latter. Andrew Marvel more than two hundred years ago wrote of his garden, I think at a time when he was much in London — “ Society is all but rude To this delicious solitude.” Nor, though I am myself no farmer, are these thoughts and feelings foreign to him who enters with delight into the pleasures of his “ Home Farm.” Well here is a hint for our ideal farmer if he grows Clover seed. The late Mr. Darwin it is, I think, who quaintly remarked that the fertility of the Clover in any district depends upon the number of cats kept in the neighbourhood; for the Clover is fertilised by the bees, and the bees are greatly thinned by the harvest mice, and the harvest mice in turn are much devoured by cats. The more cats, therefore, the fewer harvest mice and the better Clover crop. Since I read that I pet my cat still more, and consider myself through her a benefit to the farm¬ ing interest. No house nor stable should be without its cat either for pleasure, or, as it seems, for national benefit if Clover fields be near. The thought of cats makes me think, by an odd twist of unreasoning, of their opposites — viz., birds. Pigeon literature rarely has any addition from a writer who is outside the world of fanciers, but one such addition I must note, a charm¬ ing tale, causing laughter and tears, appeared in “Aunt Judy’s Magazine” for November, 1881, entitled “ Daddie Darwin’s Dovecote,” by Mrs. Ewing, a tale, as you may judge from the title, in which pigeons, and fancy pigeons too, figure charmingly. I should like to see it printed as an introduction to any future large work on pigeons. In regard to the more useful, though scarcely fancy pigeons, the homing birds, I notice now even in Wiltshire towns they are largely kept, and Flying Clubs have taken root, these imported from the north. Homing pigeons were at a time undervalued, or only used by fanciers when Dragoons were flown. Then when news became more eagerly sought for the faster-flying Antwerps came iuto fashion. But then came the telegraph, and it was believed the days of pigeon use were over ; but it is not so. To say nothing of times of war, when telegraphs are destroyed, or, worse still, “ tapped,” it has been discovered, so I learn from a recent Indian paper, that the irregularity and delays of the telegraph in some parts of the world are so great, from various circumstances, that the pigeon post has been reconstituted, and it was found to be quicker and more certain than the telegraph. So Nature beats Art even in these most scientific days. To speak of one other bird, which was, happily, com¬ mon some years since, the goldfinch — birds which in their singular loveliness of colour, form, and spright¬ liness of movement attracted the eye of the least bird- loving. These, the handsomest of all English singing birds, have become increasingly scarce. I have only seen one pair wild during the last ten years, and a recent writer notices that this scarcity is owing to the better cultivation of land and the extirpation, or nearly so, of Thistles. But I would ask, Has the Bird Preser¬ vation Act been properly carried out ? I beg my readers, each and all, to see to this in their neighbour¬ hoods. Have the men with call birds and limed twigs been laid hold of by the police as they ought to be ? If not, we shall utterly lose one of the best of living ornaments to our gardens and country lanes, and one of the sweetest songsters. But I must cease or shorten my gossip on paper. We begin another year, and “ our Journal ” sails on smooth seas, and is welcomed in countless homes of English-speaking people at home and abroad. Many periodicals are read and done with ; I do not find this to be the case with ours. I read and refer to its bound volumes constantly for various reasons. Sometimes for special information ; and sometimes, on a dull day, I turn to read over again such a series of papers as “ The Market Gardens of London,” or the “ Early Writers on English Gardening.” I have said that the past, the present, and the future have all their power over us. I would say, Act well in the present, and when it becomes a past you will not be pricked by conscience, but comforted by a pleasant and not painful retrospect. Then, as to the future, I hope, as I have said, there is something bright ahead for us all. Clouds move away sooner than we expect. January 4, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 3 A way through darkness is unexpectedly made by us or for us, and so we go on. Do the right and things will always come right. It chiefly depends upon a man himself as to what he is — happy or unhappy, successful or unsuccessful. I will close with a few words of advice to all those who write, or read, or work — advice not unsuitable to those who understand a garden, by the one who under¬ stood human nature better than any other man, I mean Shakespeare. He says : — “ ’Tis in ourselves that we are thus or thus. Our bodies are our gardens, to the which our wills are gardeners. So that if we plant Nettles or sowLettuce, set Hyssop and weed-up Thyme, supply it with one gender of herbs or distract it with many, either have it sterile with idleness or manured with industry — why, the power and corrigible authority of this lies in our trills. ” So it ever is. Three hundred years about have passed since these words of sterling advice were written, but they are just as true now as they were then. Follow them, and the coming year will he a happy one in present and in retrospect. I wish all, now for the nineteenth time, a truly happy new year. — "Wiltshire Hector. DRAINING. This may be called a seasonable subject, for not only is winter the most suitable time for the operation to be performed, but when heavy rains come on the already soddened earth we can more readily discover where drains are imperatively needed than in summer. As the subject has been frequently treated of it will not be necessary to say anything about the mechanical operations of draining, as these are, or should be, understood by every gar¬ dener. It may be well, however, to note the advantages which accrue from the proper draining of wet soil. The first is that it materially raises the temperature of the soil. Soddened soil is always colder than dry soil, because what heat is absorbed by the soil is not employed in warming it, but in evaporating the water. Hence a wet soil retains its winter temperature long in spring after a dry soil has become warm and favourable for the growth of vegetation . Nay, even the winter temperature of wet soil is much lower than that of dry soil. This is an important point, as anyone can see if a moment’s thought is given to the subject. Not only does water when thus stagnant actually keep soil cold because of the heat being utilised in evaporating it, but the rain of summer, which further warms well-drained land as it passes through, has exactly the opposite effect on wret undrained land, for in that case it does not pass through the soil, but only adds to the water requiring evaporation. Hence in wet seasons crops on wet undrained soil frequently fail to mature at all. Then draining, especially when liming is also practised, sweetens soil. Wet land is almost always sour and contains much matter that is hurtful to vegetation, but when the sur¬ plus water is run off by properly laid drains it carries much of this away. Then, as every heavy rain passes through the soil, it carries off more and more, till what was once a sour, cold, poisonous soil becomes sweet, warm, and fertile. Draining fertilises a wet soil. Whenever air is excluded from a soil by water, the decaying manure and other vege¬ tation form compounds hurtful to vegetation ; but when the water is run off air enters, and then very different compounds — compounds which nourish instead of destroying — are formed. Then, as every heavy rain displaces the air, so it is the cause of the air being renewed ; foi as the soil again rids itself of superfluous water fresh air fills the pores of the soil, and fresh oxygen finds out the matters only awaiting its presence to become plant-food. Then drainage makes soil easily worked. It is impossible to improve soils by cultivation while they remain soddened. To attempt it is to do mischief. But on this point we will not enlarge, nor will we do more than point to the fact that drainage materially improves the climate as well as the soil. These facts are well known, and need hardly have been repeated but for the fact that, though great pains are often taken to insure perfect drainage, no drainage results, and some of the benefits accruing from drainage, though very much needed, are never reaped. Drainage is only efficient when it is the means of carrying off water ; but when it does not do so is evident that the good looked for cannot result. In ordi¬ nary cases the drains have only to be properly laid to secure all the good results named above, because under ordinary cir¬ cumstances all the conditions necessary are present. In every garden, however, there are circumstances when all the con¬ ditions are not present. For instance, inside borders for Vines, Peach trees, Figs, &c., are invariably and rightly provided with drainage. It does not follow, however, that it serves its purpose, for it is doubtful if in any great number of instances water is applied in sufficient quantity to insure the draining. Very much of the water which falls on the land evaporates either directly or indirectly from the leaves of plants. Eva¬ poration inside fruit houses cannot be less than what takes place outside, and we should fancy it to be a good deal greater, while such broad-leaved plants as Vines are pump enormous amount of water from the soil. True, gardeners apply more water to inside borders than was usual only a few years ago, while the drying during the resting period usual once is no longer practised, still almost all are perfectly satisfied if they can make sure of their borders being fairly saturated. Thorough-going practitioners in some few instances, in order to “ make assurance doubly sure,” may give enough not only to secure all the benefits of plenty of moisture, but also the benefits of drainage. Our inside borders are, in almost all cases, heavity manured, in fact over-manured. For a time no great harm results, but in time the soil becomes overloaded, and those who can afford to do so renew the soil partially or wholly. Soils outside do not require such renewing, and it is an expensive process that few can afford. Care in manuring will help to stave off the evil day ; the periodical application of slight dressings of hot lime will do much to keep matters right ; but in order to maintain the borders in their fertility drainage — in other words, abundant application of water — is also necessary. Undoubtedly the great purifier of the soil is water. Injurious acids and salts are by its agency carried out of the soil into the drains and away, and nowhere are such to be found in such quantity as in over-manured undrained soils. Indeed it is not necessary that the compounds formed should be in them¬ selves hurtful. Nitrate of lime or potash are manures of the greatest value when applied in moderate quantities, but when they accumulate in over-manured soils that are not drained they become positively destructive. Outside the weather- clerk takes care that such shall not happen if we only lay the pipes. In fact, outside such manurings are not given as are applied inside, and our object should, in the former instance, be how to guard against their loss. Inside we should take care that they do not accumulate and destroy. — Single- handed. MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA GRAPES. I THANK “ Vitis ” for his kindly criticism on my note about the Knowsley Muscats on page 494, last volume. I did not intend to convey the idea that the success of these Muscats was due to their roots being in the sand under the flags at the back of the house. It would have been better perhaps if I had made the sentence finishing on the second line from the top read thus, *• The flags were resting upon sand which, with the exception of those found in the newly formed border, were crowded with nearly all the feeding roots the Vines possessed.” I may add the Vines in question were planted in the spring of 1873, and were what is commonly called small “ planting canes.” In order to get them in without loss of time a trench the length of the two houses, and about a yard wide, was excavated along the front of the old border. This trench was filled with the best loam Mr. Harrison could obtain at the time, the usual sprinkling of bones, lime rubbish, and some wood ashes. Afterwards the whole border, new and old, received annually a small mulching of JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 4, 1883. manure, and through this the roots travelled after they had occupied the portion of new border to the sand. The houses in which the Vines were planted were very old and in bad condition, of various widths, and of different, levels. Their removal and the building of the present structures necessitated lifting the Vines and finishing the new borders. The Vines looked rather unsatisfactory for a time after lifting, but soon rallied, and have done well since. As regards temperature, Mr. Harrison believes in giving tropical plants tropical treatment in order to bring them to perfection, and remarks, “ All Vines must be in first-rate health before we can reasonably expect to see a highly finished crop on them. My own opinion is that the ‘ crack ’ of air, the damping down, the manipulation of the foliage, and other set rules are not of primary importance in the colouring of Grapes if only the Vines are in the best of health and fairly cropped.” — Wm. Bardney. NEW CARNATIONS. think it worth trying ? An answer will oblige, also names of the weeds of which 1 give an outline of leaves, if the outline is sufficient for you to identify them. — Hortus. [No. 1 is Ranunculus bulbosus ; No. 2, probably R. acris ; and 3, Potentilla Tormentilla— all abundant in meadows.] In answer to inquiries as to what are the best varieties of Carnations and Picotees, I now take the opportunity of naming what are the best of those already sent out which I have seen during the last season. Of those sent out last spring, beginning with the scarlet bizarres, I find that Edward Adams (Dodwell) is the best. With me the flowers were large and good. It is a high-coloured flower of the largest size, large broad petals with good markings, and moderately full. It is better for a little shading, as, like most high-coloured flowers, it is liable to flush in the white : this, no doubt, will disappear with age. The next good variety I have seen is Fred, sent out in the autumn of 1880 and in 1881. It is a noble flower of fine proportions, possessing the best white ground of any S.B. sent out by Mr. Dodwell. The petals are large, with perfectly smooth edges and markings. A few more petals would greatly add to its value as an exhibition flower. Ot the new crimson b'zarres the bes-t 1 have seen is Master Fred (Hewitt), sent out in the autumn of 1881. It is a very large high-coloured flower with a fine white, and altogether one of best C.B.’s I have ever seen. It is a full flower with petals of the largest sizp, the colours well laid on. Another flower in the same class, and which will be invaluable to the seedling raiser, is Thomas Moore (Dodwell), a thin high-coloured flower of the finest properties ; it was sent out in autumn, 1880. Another gocd flower is Harrison Weir (Dodwell), C.B., sent out in 1881 ; a pale flower, very near a pink and purple bizarre. This, no doubt, is a seedling from Rifleman, as it has the bold markings and fine petal of that handsome old sort. In pink and purple bizarres I have only grown one new one. It is called Stanley Hudson (Dodwell), and was sent out in the autumn of 1880. It is a rather thin flower with bright clear markings, and seems to possess the same properties of sporting as some others of the pinks and purples do — notably Sarah Payne ; it having sported to a purple flake with me this season, in which state it is a really handsome flower. I have not seen any new purple flakes, only the sport above re¬ ferred to. Amongst scarlet flakes there is a fine new variety which I have grown ; it is called Thomas Tomes (Dodwell), a high- coloured flower with very broad petals. It will be a great addition to a scarce class. Of rose flakes I have grown one — a pale rose, a sport from Lamp¬ lighter, C.B. It sported with the late Mr. John Fletcher about three years ago. He named it Sporting Lady. It is a rather late flower, which with it as a rose flake is a good property, many of them being too early. It is something in the style of Mrs. F. Burnaby with a better petal than that sort. Notes on new varieties of Picotees must be reserved till a future issue. — G. Rudd. A few years ago, when I was foreman at Petworth Park, the Cucumbers were badly affected by a disease similar to that de¬ scribed by Mr. Harding. Mr. Jones, then head gardener, tried everything he could think of, but to no purpose, though they kept freest from it grown in a compost chiefly of peat. After Mr. Jones left his successor, Mr. Breese, turned all the Cucumbers and Melons out of the houses and grew them in pits and frames, some of which were a quarter of a mile away, but with the same result. He then tried them in the plant and Pine stoves. He tried strong dressings of lime, then painted the house and dug new soil from a great depth, and some was obtained from long distances, as were also the fresh plants ; but the only way he could get them moderately free was by growing the plants in pots in the Pine stove. Not long ago I paid a visit to Petworth Park. I was astonished to see the Cucumbers growing as clean as though the disease had never been there, and I was informed that it was destroyed by simply using all rain water, as the water that was laid on con¬ tained much lime and, I suppose, something else that did not suit them. I do not say this will banish all the disease in the country, but it is certainly worth a trial. — P. A. B. THE CUCUMBER DISEASE. I enclose sketches of three weeds found in the turves (grass sod) here. No. 1 I lePeve is the common Buttercup ; it has a small bulbous root. Nos. 2 and 3 are somewhat similar in shape of leaf, but are rooted differently, one if not both having tree-like roots— hard and wiry. These roots I firmly believe are the cause of one form of Cucumber disease which has been troubling some of your readers. When carefully examined they have small lumps along them like beads. These beads 1 think each contain one or more of the insects which attack the Cucumber roots and eventually destroy them. I have been thinking of building a kind of air-tight stove in which to place all turves and manure before using, and thoroughly fumigating with sulphur. Has it been tried? or do your readers PINUS INSIGNIS FOR A SHALLOW SOIL. So far as I am aware there are only two reasons for the pre¬ judice which has so long existed against the extensive planting of Pinus insignis, and these are its being “spring tender” audits liability to be blown over by high winds. May I add a third, and say that there is much difficulty in obtaining it in quantity from the nurseries ? From my own experience, as well as from what I have seen of it in various parts of the country, I believe it only suffers from late frost in bleak exposed situations, or in a damp cold situation at the bottom of a valley. Great elevations are unnecessary ; some of the finest specimens in the country are flourishing bravely upon the slopes of Lamorran only a few feet above the level of the sea. Well-drained slopes and shelter from high winds in infancy and youth, combined with careful planting and due exposure on all sides to air and light, being the only factors to success there ; for the great range of temperature in the Cornish valleys is proverbial. It answers equally at an elevation of 500 feet above the sea in Sussex upon slopes facing east and others facing west, and it is the free healthy growth of these trees in a poor shallow soil that leads me now to draw especial atten¬ tion to it. Whether it will eventually attain its full size in this soil is uncertain ; but the Silver Fir (Picea pectinata) has done so, and P. insignis certainly bears favourable comparison with Silver Firs of the same age. As to its being blown over, that evil was, I believe, clearly traced to the careless planting of trees turned out of pots with roots uncoiled, and thrust into a hole quite in the “sticking-in” fashion that so often leads to failure. The profuse habit of the tree, its handsome appearance, and the singularly lively green hue of its foliage at this dull season of the year renders it very desirable for ornamental purposes. Still more important is the fact that its timber is sound and durable. I am unable to say anything about fineness of grain ; that may render it valuable for other purposes than building, but I may usefully repeat a former statement of boards sawn from an English-grown tree being perfectly sound after being left exposed upon a building for twelve years unpainted. In a list of Coniferae before me its height is given at from 40 to 80 feet. Is the higher number a correct maximum ? I have seen it fully that height, and the trees showed no indications of a cessation of growth. — E. Luckhurst. Suttons’ Reading Exhibition Brussels Sprout. — Allow me to endorse Mr. Horsefield’s good opinion of this (page 542), and to add that 18 inches is by no means its average height of growth, for we have here a plot of about four hundred plants that are at least double that height, and are covered with the most perfect “ buttons ” from top to bottom. Length of stem is a very necessary requirement in a Brussels Sprout — i.e., if amount of produce be desired ; and this height, being one of the chief characteristics of this variety, adds to its value immensely. If it has a fault at all, it is that the “ buttons ” grow too large, at least in regard to appearance at table. This, how¬ ever, is but a little matter so long as the quality is right, and this is certainly of the first order. In appearance it is distinct from every other variety that I have yet seen, being of a pale green colour, and J January 4, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. has deeply corrugated foliage, more after the type of a Savoy. The Messrs. Sutton are to be congratulated on its acquisition. — W. L. H. THE MADRESFIELD COURT GRAPE. It is not because the rarer fruits are at all times the best fruits that they are the more appreciated. It is quite common for things to be appreciated simply because they are rare, but when we have something rare and good it is appreciated for its merit’s sake. So it is with the Madresfield Court Grape. This Grape is one that only has to be tasted to be appreciated and sought after. Some time ago I had the honour of a visit from Mr. Ingram, gardener to the Duke of Rutland, when the merits of this Grape came under discussion. His advice was, “ Don’t risk too many of ’it.” Some time after I was discussing its merits with one of our best Grape growers (Mr. Jowsey of Sedbury Park), when he related the following. Having sent a dish in the day previously of the Madresfield Court, one of the young gentlemen inquired of him the name of the Grape, which, on being given, the reply was volunteered, “ If I were a gardener I would grow nothing but the Madresfield Court.” This year, when Mr. Wescott, Mr. Hunter, and Mr. Mclndoe visited me after my Grapes generally had been favourably commented on, the latter remarked concerning the Madresfield Court, “ This is the best you have shown us.” So much for the opinions of those well qualified to judge as to the merits of this Grape. I believe that Madresfield Court well grown is the most delicious and the most magnificent Grape that can be placed on a gentleman’s table. To succeed with it fully compensates for all the risk of failure. It is free-growing, a free setter, and very prolific. Its faults are that it cracks badly, and, worse, if a cracked berry escapes attention for a few days all the berries near it will quickly decay. It will stand more liquor than the Duke of Buccleucb, but otherwise the faults of these two Grapes are much alike. To succeed with them their roots ought to be completely under control. The gardener who succeeds in sending in good condition to his master’s table those two magni¬ ficent Grapes is most surely is on the path that leads to a better position. This" is the possible, nay, pro¬ bable, prize obtainable ; and, for encouragement, it is now known that these Grapes can be well grown. — Joseph Witherspoon, Red Rose Vineries. aspect ; it also does well on the Pear stock, although the fruitdoes not come so large. Like others of the same size and race, when the fruits set thickly it is desirable to thin them, and those re¬ tained will become larger and be better both in appearance and flavour. The figure represents the size and form of this Pear. The skin is covered with russet, the yellow ground colour being only faintly visible on the shaded side. This excellent Pear was raised by M. Boisbunel of Rouen, and first fruited in 1855. Its season of use varies from January till March. THE CULTIVATION OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. During the past few years few plants have deservedly secured more favour or become more popular than the Chrysanthemum. As an instance in proof, the other day at a fashionable wedding in the west end of London I noticed the bridesmaids each carried a CULTURE OF HYDRANGEAS. Hydrangeas are very useful plants for house and conservatory decoration. It is generally the object of a gardener to have as much bloom as it is possible to have on plants grown in small pots, and if Hy¬ drangeas are well treated they are very satisfactory in this respect. I have seen them with heads of bloom 18 inches in diameter in 48-size pots. To have Hydrangeas in good condition the stock plants should be well exposed to the light in the spring, started in a greenhouse temperature so that the cuttings should not become weakly. When good cuttings can be procured they should be inserted singly in small pots, placing them in a close propa¬ gating box in an intermediate temperature. After the cuttings have rooted place them in a cool frame close to the glass, to be well ventilated. Repot them into 48-pots, pressing the soil firmly, which should consist of three parts loam and one part well -decayed manure. Place them out of doors well exposed to the sun and air. The growth they will make under this treatment by the autumn will be short and sturdy, not more than 3 or 4 inches long. Leave them in the open air until they lose their foliage, and winter them in a cold frame. About the end of February commence to introduce a few at intervals into an intermediate temperature, supply them with clear water until the flower truss appears, then supply liquid manure until the truss is fully expanded. — A. Young. PEAR PASSE CRASANNE. This must rank as one of the most delicious late Pears known. The fruit, although not large, is very melting and rich, and must be classed with such Pears as Josephine de Malines and Bergamot Esperen, which are deserved favourites with connoisseurs. Passe Crasanne succeeds well on the Quince on a wall having a west Fig. 1. — Fear Fasse Crasanne. bouquet of Chrysanthemums. Again, except in the neighbourhood of London, a few years ago Chrysanthemum societies were almost unheard of, but now such societies are in all parts of the country. I am also very pleased to hear that this year several new societies have been established with considerable success. Whether to the cottager and artisan, the amateur or the professional gardener, few plants will give more pleasure, greater results, or cause more enthusiasm than the one under notice. With a moderate number of varieties flowers may be had from the end of September to January, and yet how few people know to what perfection the Chrysanthemum may be grown. Even from gardeners I have often hjard something like the following remarks : — “ Oh ! I don’t grow them for fine flowers, I grow them for cutting.” To me this is a paradox, for will not fine and perfect flowers answer that purpose ? My idea is, whether it is a Chrysanthemum, a bunch of Grapes, or any other thing a gardener has to produce, one perfect well-grown specimen is worth fifty of indifferent quality. But my object in these notes is to describe the methods by which such splendid flowers may be produced as have lately been seen at exhibitions, and I will therefore as briefly as possible detail my experience. 6 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 4, lm. PROPAGATION AND CULTURE. The first thing to commence with is sturdy cuttings and offshoots laken from the base of the old plant at any time up to March. Insert the strongest singly in thumb pots, the weaker ones four or five round the edge of a large CO-size pot. Some writers have recom¬ mended autumn, others spring, as the best time to insert the cuttings ; but I think that it matters little at what time this is done so long as they are well rooted by the end of March or early in April. It is the tieatment and attention they receive after this time that is of the most importance. I have proved beyond dispute that as good plants with foliage to the rim of the pot, and producing as good flowers, may be grown from cuttings taken in March as from cuttings taken in November. I take all the cuttings I can about the first week in December for this reason, that it is not convenient to keep the old plants of, say, 150 varieties until March. I place the cuttings in a cold frame, keeping them moderately moist, and except giving air when the weather is favourable no further attention is required until the end of March, by which time all should be well rooted ; they should then be potted in large 00-size pots, and again transferred to a cold frame, ventilating freely. About the first week in May they should be ready for a shift into 32-pots, after which they should be placed in an open airy position. The second week in June they will require their final shift into 8 or 9-inch pots (specimens into 10 or 1 2-inch pots), which are of ample size to suit all their requirements ; they should again be placed in a similar position, a row on one or both sides of a path. A few stakes are driven into the ground about 30 feet apart, and a wire or cord passed from one to the other answers well to tie the plants to during the growing season. Here they may remain until the first week in October, when they should be trans¬ ferred to an ordinary greenhouse, Peach or orchard house, or vinery, where they may obtain plenty of light and air to develops their flowers. A little heat in dull wet weather, so as to keep as dry an atmosphere as possible, is beneficial to them. COMPOST. The compost I use for the first potting is one-half loam, the other well-decayed manure and leaf soil, with a little sand added ; a similar soil when shifting into 32’s. When putting them into their flowering pots I have used and found two-thirds fibrous loam, one-third fresh horse droppings, with a few half-inch bones over the crocks, suit them admirably, but I do not place soil as a matter of first importance. It is the time the buds are taken and the feeding they afterwards get upon which results depend. When the bud is set the plants should be supplied regularly with liquid manure, not too strong at first, but gradually increasing it in strength until the flowers are well expanded, when the use of stimulants should cease. I believe plants, like human beings, are benefited by a change of food ; therefore do not always water them with the same manure if a change can be procured. I have no faith in many of the artificial manures. Doubtless they are useful to many, but where cow, horse, sheep, or fowl manure can be procured, or the drainage of a manure yard, stables, &c., nothing else is required. Should green fly attack the plants in the spring dipping them into a pail of tobacco water will soon destroy the pest. With specimens it is a good plan to dust the under sides of the leaves with sulphur before housing to kill or prevent mildew. DISBUDDING. The foregoing remarks apply equally to the incurved, Japanese, Anemone, and reflexed varieties. I am pleased to see the latter two sections worthily becoming greater favourites every year. Early in April the question will arise, For what purpose are the plants required ? whether for specimens or grown on what is termed the natural system, to produce fine flowers fit for exhibition. Having cultivated the Chrysanthemum for some years I do not know of any one system which you may lay down as a hard-and-fast line to follow, and guarantee results. What is termed the natural system is to let the plants grow as they will until they show the summer bud, which will generally be from the middle of June to the end of July. This bud is useless. Several shoots are produced below it, when as many may be left as the cultivator deems fit — from three to eight, variety and strength of plant to be considered. These shoots, being left to grow, will each show another bud, which is termed the crown bud, and that i3 the bud to produce fine flowers, providing it comes at the proper time. When first seen it is very small, and has three vigorous shoots around it. These should be at once pinched off, likewise all after growths, to direct the whole resources of the plant to the flower. The difficulty is to induce the plants to show this bud at the proper time, for upon this (providing the plants are healthy and vigorous) depend the future results. Take three plants of any one variety, treat them alike in every respect ; the probabilities are one will show the crown bud in the middle of July, another in the middle of August, the third not until September. My opinion is, the time for them to show this bud is between the 10th of August and the 7th of September. Seasons vary, but from several years’ experience I have no hesitation in saying a great per¬ centage of buds taken between the above-named dates will prove satisfactory. If taken before, they are apt to become hard and not open properly. The incurved varieties will have narrow petals, and go more like a reflexed flower, whereas the Japanese will resemble a hen-and-chicken Daisy — that is, a number of small imperfect buds will form around the main one. This season I saw one bud of Madame B. Rendatler with twenty-eight smaller ones around it, some of them having stalks 4 inches in length, but should the buds not come sufficiently early for them to develope fine flowers will never be produced. To obtain this bud at the proper time much may be done by know¬ ing which varieties are early and which late, and stopping them accordingly — that is, should one plant of any given variety show the summer bud early in June, which at times they will do, the crown bud would most likely show itself at the beginning of July,, which is too early. Such a plant I should say cut down to about 9 inches or a foot from the pot ; you thereby dwarf your plant, and will, most probably get the crown bud between the dates I have mentionM. Again, should another plant show its first bud the end of June I should cut it down the same. I do not advise any one day or time to cut them down, neither do I say Serve a whole collection the same, but anyone knowing the varieties and the time required to develope the flower of each variety may by judiciously cutting back his plants get much better results than by leaving the plants to grow naturally. He will also have them much dwarfer. which is a great consideration where they are required for the decoration of a conservatory. TRAINING I have no great admiration for specimens, therefore have not practised the tortuous methods of training that may. often be seen at exhibitions — that is, tying the plants to wires in all shapes varying from an umbrella or inverted saucer to the model of an Egyptian pyramid. Ordinary bushes, with no training except stop¬ ping, and sufficient stakes to support their blooms, are more orna¬ mental and useful and produce much finer flowers than the mon¬ strosities often seen. To obtain bushy specimens the plants should be stopped when about 6 inches high, and all after growths likewise stopped at the second joint nntil the second week in July, when they should be left to grow as they will until the bud appears. They will then require disbudding, so as to only leave the terminal bud on each shoot. Early in October they may be tied out as required. I much prefer Pompons as specimens to either of the large-flowered sections. The preceding remarks will equally apply to Pompons, only they may be stopped at least ten days later than I have advised for the other varieties, though it is an unnatural way. Pompons grown as standards if not overtrained are not to be despised for decorative purposes. I generally grow a few with stems about 2 feet high, having heads from 2 to 3 feet in diameter without any training whatever except after the stems are of sufficient height, stopping them as directed for bush specimens. VARIETIES. All the varieties of reflexed and Anemone are worthy of cultivation, also a great many of the Pompons. As there are so many varieties I shall only name the following incurved and Japanese varieties, which are amongst the best in cultivation. Tncurved. — John Salter, Empress of India, Golden Empress of India, Alfred Salter, Queen of England, Golden Queen of England, Lady Slade ; Angelina, a light bronze sport from Lady Slade ; Princess of Wales, Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred ; Lord Wolseley, a bronze sport from Prince Alfred ; Eve, Mabel Ward, Hero of Stoke Newington, Princess Teck, Mrs. Heales, Mr. Gladstone, Golden Eagle, Lord Derby, Incognita, Mr. Bunn, Nil Desperandum, Princess Bea¬ trice, St. Patrick, Refulgence, Baron Beust, Jardin des Plantes, Beauty, Empress Eugbnie, Isabella Bott, Mrs. Dixon, Mrs. G. Bundle, Mr. G. Glenny, Golden and White Beverley, Barbara, Lady Harding, Mrs. W. Shipman, Mr. Corbay, Venus, White Venus, Enamel, Novelty, Le Grand, Duchess of Manchester, Mr. Brunlees. Japanese. — Meg Merrilees, Bouquet Fait, Elaine, Fair Maid of Guernsey, Baron de Prailly, Grandiflorum, Bronze Dragon, Garnet, The Darnio, Fanny Boucharlet. Criterion, Lutea Striata, Alba Striata, Hiver Fleur, M. Ardene, M. Delaux, Mdlle. Anna Delaux, Guil¬ laume Delaux, M. C. Audiguier, L. Incomparable, Mdlle. Moulise, Pere Delaux, Thunberg, Comte de Germany, Boule d’Or, Flambeaux, Balmoreau, Triomphe de Chatalet, M. R. Larios, Cry Kang, Soliel Levant, James Salter, Lady Selborne, Sarnia, Dr. Macary, Peter the Great, Sultan, Oracle, Plantagenet, Alba Plena, Mons. Bertie Ren¬ datler, Comtesse de Beaureguard, Rubra Striata, Agr^ment de la Nature, Apollo, Fleur Parfait, and Arlequin.- — J. Lyne, Belvedere. ( Bead at a meeting of the Wimbledon Gardeners’ Society ). NOTES ON GRAPES— CRITICISM. I would trespass farther on your good nature to say that my reasons for thinking “ Honi Soit qui Mai y Pense ” excluded the Black Hamburgh from early vineries was, that in his “compa¬ rative estimate,” not of new kinds only, but of such old sorts as the Muscat of Alexandria, Lady Downe’s, and Cannon Hall Muscat, &c., he does not so much as mention it, but gives distinct general advice, that “For early work I would recommend every¬ one to have a house of the Duke of Buccleuch and a house of the Madresfield Court.” With late Grapes till April and May now- a-days, I would really like to know what this means if it does not mean the exclusion of the Black Hamburgh, for in an ordinary way so many early Grapes could not be consumed, even in the largest places, let alone by “ everyone,” if we are to regard these January 4, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 7 tried sorts as only auxiliaries to early Hamburgh houses. Your readers could, I submit, put no other construction on your cor¬ respondent’s words than I have done, and everyone I have spoken to on the subject apprehended them in that sense and no other. — Head Gardener. In reply to “ Head Gardener,” on page 577, while I decline to notice his personalities, I maintain every word I wrote about Madresfield Court and the Duke. I never said they were Grapes of easy culture, but pointed out defects that had to be overcome before they could be successfully grown. When these defects are combated no two finer early Grapes can be found. “ Notes about Grapes ” does not imply that all the kinds referred to are recom¬ mended for “general culture” to the exclusion of others. This was made plain on the page above quoted. — Honi Soit qui Mal t Pense. As the writer of the article in which the Muscat Hamburgh is favourably spoken of, I have to say that 1 never advised the “ general culture ” of this Grape, as is stated by “ Head Gardener ” on page 577. A correspondent, “ J. E. R. I.,” wrote asking about specified Grapes. 1 replied, and in so doing was careful to refer to the defects of certain of the Grapes mentioned. He asked to be advised if he might plant one Vine each of four varieties that he named. Can this be called “ general culture ?” Success with Muscat Hamburgh means something to be appreciated. I told “ J. E. R. I.” that when successfully grown Muscat Hamburgh is a grand Grape. Who will deny this ? It can be grown, and if anyone wishes to try it why should they be advised not to do so, especially when its weaknesses are pointed out and are capable of being overcome ? No one possessing the smallest amount of knowledge concerning Grapes would think of disparaging the Black Hamburgh. It is an old and trusty friend, but when something extra fine in regard to flavour is wanted this old favourite must yield to others. — Vitis. _ “ Head Gardener’s ” method of criticism will not commend itself to all readers. It was apparent on the face of the article which he criticised that it was not intended as a mere list of “ Grapes for general culture.” As to advising “everybody” to grow the Duke of Buccleuch, it would be obvious to most readers that the meaning of the phrase was that everybody should grow it who are able to do so, and useful hints were given on its requirements. If “ Head Gardener ” is not one of these he can scarcely be regarded as an impartial critic. If he can give an assurance that he grows it well, then his remarks will have some weight. That it can be grown well evidence has been adduced, and it is not usual for those who succeed to condemn this variety. In his allusion to the exclusion of the Black Hamburgh by “Vitis” your clever critic is quite out of court, for “ Vitis ” distinctly expressed his sur¬ prise that it was not included in the list of Grapes for September. How different in tone is Mr. Roberts’s article last week. This is a model of criticism, as the merits or failings of the varieties alone are pointed out without any unpleasant allusions to any writer whose experience differs from his own. I can grow the Duke, but everybody cannot, neither can “ everybody ” grow the Black Hamburgh. Means and skill are necessary elements in Grape culture, and moderation in expression is an important element in effective criticism. — Another Head Gardener. [On this account we have modified some of the expressions of our correspondent, and prevented him giving an example of what he condemns. Matters, not men, are proper subjects for criticism.] COLLECTIONS OF SEEDS. We must thank your correspondent, “ C. T. H.” (page 565, last volume), for an opportunity of explaining the object and advan¬ tages claimed for our collections of garden seeds. We thank your correspondent, because had we attempted an explanation without his suggestion having appeared our action might have been open to a charge of seeking to obtain a gratuitous advertisement for our goods. Your correspondent is not quite correct in all his assumptions. One of the most important reasons for our offering these collec¬ tions is that by so doing we are enabled to prepare a very large number, running into some thousands of these boxes of seeds before the high pressure of our busy season comes on. This, it will be seen, provides occupation for the large staff that we must at all times employ, and by the early preparation of the boxes the labour of some three hundred or four hundred men, women, and boys is released, and can then be devoted to the urgency of orders which come at a certain season of the year for immediate execu¬ tion. There is again a saving in making up a large number of boxes at one time ; but this to a great extent would be absorbed if purchasers were to send orders for irregular quantities such as your correspondent suggests, because each order would not only have to be executed on its own merits, but there would be a con¬ siderable addition to the labour and expenses of supervision. There is no doubt that purchasers of these seeds save fully the amount “ C. T. H.” states, and it would be simply a repetition of the famous fable if we or any other house were to attempt to make up a box to please everybody. We claim, however, for our boxes that, in addition to the great saving in cost, the varieties contained comprise for all general table purposes the best standard sorts in cultivation. We append herewith a copy of the average contents of our guinea box, and we respectfully challenge any gardener to suggest a better collection as an all-round one to produce quality both for exhibition and for table. Peas. — One pint each of the following varieties : — Carters’ First Crop, G. F. Wilson, Hundredfold, Essex Rival, Champion of England, Bishop’s Longpod, Dickson’s Favourite, Telegraph, Standard, Yorkshire Hero, Carters’ Selected Tom Thumb, Ne Plus Ultra, Fortyfold. Beans. — One pint each of Improved Windsor, Seville Longpod, and Giant Longpod ; half pint each of Carters’ Champion Runner, Early Prolific French, and Longpodded Negro French. One packet each of Beet, Carters’ Perfection ; Borecole, Dwarf Green Curled ; Brussels Sprouts, Carters’ Perfection ; Broccolis, Carters’ Summer, Carters ’ Early Sprouting, and Adams’ Early White ; Cabbages, Carters’ Early, Carters’ Miniature Drumhead, and Enfield Market ; Savoy, Dwarf Green Curled ; Colewort, Hardy Green. Carrot. — 1 oz. each of Long Red Surrey, James’ Intermediate, and a packet of Carters’ Improved Horn. A packet each of Cauliflower, Carters’ Dwarf Mammoth ; Celery, Carters’ Incomparable Crimson and Sandringham White ; Cucumber, Carters’ Champion and Best of All Ridge ; Endive, Best Green Curled ; Leek, Musselburgh ; Lettuces, Carters’ Giant White Cos, Winter Cabbage, Winter Cos, and All the Year Round ; Melon, mixed prize varieties ; Onions, White Spanish, Giant White Tripoli, Long-keeping, and Blood Red ; Parsley, Carters’ Covent Garden Garnishing ; Parsnip, Carters’ Maltese. Radish, 2 ozs. of Long Particular Long Red ; and a packet each of mixed Turnip and Scarlet Olive-shaped. Cress, 2 ozs. of Plain, 1 oz. of Curled, and a packet of Australian. Mustard, 4 ozs. ; Spinach, 2 ozs. each of Round and Prickly-seeded ; Turnips, 1 oz. each of Carters’ Nimble Six Weeks, and Orange Jelly ; and a packet each of Tomato ; Vegetable Marrow, Moore’s Cream ; pot herbs, mixed. We think it would have served the interests of the gardening world if your correspondent had been a little more explicit upon the following point. He says — “ This looks very well, but I was obliged to buy certain sorts that were deficient, although there were enough of those valueless sorts to sow a large garden.” We have no reason to think that your correspondent has purchased one of our boxes, but we should like him to state for the benefit of everybody what seeds were “deficient,” and in addition give the names of those varieties that were “ valueless.” In conclusion, we can only add that, great as the sale of these boxes of seeds is with us, our surprise is no less considerable that they are not more generally adopted ; and if your correspondent “ C. T. H.” thinks he can make a selection which would lead to increased popularity of these boxes we would cheerfully adopt it if it were practicable, and we should thank him for the suggestion. We have, however, given many years of personal attention to this subject, collections of seeds having originated with our house upwards of fifty years ago. — James Carter & Co. CULTURE OF STEPS ANOTIS FLORIBUNDA. Few flowers are more prized than those of the Stephanotis, and there are not many gardens in which this favourite stove climber is not grown. Its liability to be infested with mealy bug appears to be the great drawback in its cultivation, but this pest can be kept down more easily than many suppose ; in fact, keeping it clean is the chief point to be aimed at, for mealy bug spoils the blooms, rendering them deformed and unsightly. If the plant is clean there is no better way of keeping it so than by continuous syringing with rain water ; but if infested, the best way is to pour a quarter of a pint of petroleum in three gallons of water and well syringe with that. To apply it properly two persons are required, one with his syringe continually disturbing the water so that the oil does not rise to the surface, while the other applies it to the plant. A porous loamy soil is the best suited for it, and, though often grown in pots, it thrives best when planted in a prepared border 8 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 4> ms where there is plenty of root-room, for liberal cultivation always gives the best results. — J. MacDonald. If ||The temperature in London during the last week of the old and the opening days of the new year was unusually high. On Wednesday the 27th ult. the mean temperature was 53.9°, exceed¬ ing the average by 14.9°. The lowest night temperature was 29.8° on Sunday. On Tuesday in this week at noon 54® were registered, and a correspondent remarks that on the 12th of June last the temperature was 52°, and on the 13th of the same month 51°. Z - Visitors to the principal JLosdon flower shows have no need to be told of the immense improvements that have been made so rapidly amongst Tuberous Begonias. The large size, substance, brilliancy, and chasteness of the flowers are admitted by all who have seen the newer varieties ; but as all our readers have not seen them, Messrs. John Laing & Co. of Forest Hill, who are raisers and cultivators of high repute, have provided coloured plates of the leading varieties, which well represent the flowers, and which can scarcely fail to command attention. These plates measure 23 by 17 inches, one including twenty double varieties and the other fifteen single [forms, most of which are reproduced with great fidelity, *and[the_effect of the groups is gorgeous. - Pr’will he in the recollection of our readers that the late Mr. William [Hinds, whose death we announced last week, pub¬ lished two years ago a small work, entitled “ Strawberries All the'Year Bound.” A few copies of this manual remain unsold, and with the object’ of disposing of them for the benefit of Mrs. Hinds we will readily supply copies to those of our readers who may desire them for §d. each, post free ; the manual was origi¬ nally published at Is. 6d. Mr. Hinds was an expert in Strawberry culture, hence the instructions he has given are sound. We are sorry to learn that his widow and child have been left quite un¬ provided for. Several friends having expressed their willingness to assist, Mr. Wynne will be glad to receive any contributions that may be sent to him at the Gardener's Chronicle office, 41, Wellington Street, Strand, W.C. - Relative to Fuchsias in winter, “F. J. C.” will “ be obliged if any of our readers can inform him if there is any Fuchsia which would bloom freely during the winter months if planted in a border against the back wall of a greenhouse, or whether an intermediate house would be necessary for attaining the object in view.” We shall be glad if any of our readers who may have Fuchsias in winter will name the varieties and state the conditions under which the plants are grown. So far as we know the distinct variety Dominiana is one of the best for winter, and flowers well in a suitable position in a warm greenhouse, but there may be others equally good. - A correspondent sends the following “ Though a comparative novelty among Maidenhair Ferns, Adiantuh mun- DULUM is certain to become popular, more especially where button-hole bouquets are constantly in request. It somewhat resembles A. cuneatum, but the fronds are much smaller and the pinnae comparatively larger and of a rich green colour — altogether proving just the size and form for button-hole bouquets. It is as easily cultivated as A. cuneatum, and is said to be well adapted for greenhouse culture. Ours are in heat.” - Concerning the hardiness of Cordyline indivisa, “ G. L.” writes : — “ Bravely has a fine specimen of Cordyline full 8 feet high borne the first brief spell of winter weather ; 14* oi: frost on one night and 12° on another have not hurt it. Its graceful leaves still retain a bright green hue, but some of them are no longer graceful, for the snow has crippled them. Fain would I erect some shelter to prevent this, but the plant is in a conspi¬ cuous position near the house, and it must be left to take its chance. What is the greatest degree of cold it has been known to bear with impunity ? I know there are some very large plants at Torquay which must have been left undisturbed in the open air for several years, and hope to see others established in favour¬ able situations along the south coast.” ■ - The same correspondent also sends the following note on Diplopappus chrysophyllus “ Not for its flowers or summer guise do I value this dwarf shrub, but for the bright rich golden hue of its leaves and branches now. Its leaves are very small, its branches slender, and its general effect may not inaptly be termed Heath-like, and yet it is decidedly more elegant than any Heath. Its singularly beautiful appearance in winter will render it a favourite for the front of shrubbery borders.” - The following are the dates of the Meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society's Fruit and Floral Committees, Ex¬ hibitions, and Promenade Shows for 1883 : — Fruit and Floral Committees : Tuesdays, January 9th, February 13th, March 13th and 27th, April 10th and 24th, May 8th and 22nd, June 12th and 26th, July 10th and 24th, August 14th and 28th, September 11th, October 9th, November 13th, December 11th. Promenade Shows : Tuesdays, March 27th, April 10th, May 8th, June 12th, and July 10th. National Auricula Society’s Show, Tuesday, April 24th. Great Summer Show, Tuesday, May 22nd, and Wednesday, May 23rd. Implement Exhibition, Tuesday, May 22nd, to Thursday, June 21st. Pelargonium Society’s Show, Tuesday, June 26th. National Rose Society’s Show, Tuesday, July 3rd. National Car¬ nation and Picotee Society's Show, Tuesday, July 24th. - We may also remind our readers that the privileges OF Fellows and Members of the above Society for the year 1883 are as follows : — A Fellow paying four guineas a year is entitled, 1, To two tickets, both of which are transferable, and will admit the Fellow or the bearer without payment to the gardens and to the Great International Fisheries Exhibition to be held therein, and to all shows in connection therewith. Each ticket will also entitle the bearer to a season ticket-holder’s place at the opening ceremony of the Fisheries Exhibition, to be held in the Royal Albeit Hall, for the reduced payment of 5s. 2, To admit daily (Sundays excepted) eight friends by written order to the Garden at Chiswick. 3, To visit the shows at twelve o’clock, being an hour earlier than the general public. 4, To receive forty orders giving free admission on all occasions until the 15th of April, from which date till the 1st of May the Gardens will be closed, except to Fellows. These orders will be available on the payment of 6d. during the Fisheries Exhibition on all shilling days. 5, To a share of such seeds, plants, and cuttings of Vines and fruit trees as the Society may have in sufficient numbers for distribution by ballot or otherwise. 6, To purchase the flowers, fruit, and vege¬ tables grown at Chiswick which may not be required for scientific purposes by the Scientific, Fruit, and Floral Committees. 7, To receive a copy of the publications of the Society. 8, To the right of voting at all meetings. 9, To be relieved (on giving previous notice in writing) from the payment of subscriptions while resi¬ dent abroad. 10, To free admission to the reading-room and Lindley library. A Fellow paying two guineas a year is entitled to — 11, One ticket, giving the same privileges of admission as in No. 1. 12, Half the privileges mentioned in Nos. 2, 4, and 5. 13, The same as Nos. 3, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10. Present guinea mem¬ bers are entitled to one ticket, not transferable, giving the owner admission on all ordinary occasions, and to all shows at Chiswick January 4,1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 9 and South Kensington, but not to the annual or special general meetings or fetes or conversazione of the Society, and which does not entitle the member to vote on any matters relating to the affairs of the Society. The Society being incorporated by Royal Charter the Fellows incur no personal liability beyond the pay¬ ment of their annual subscriptions. Entrance fees of new Fellows joining are suspended for the present. - “W. I.” writes that “Eranthemum Andersonii, a native of India, and introduced, if I remember rightly, by Mr. Bull, is not so generally grown as it deserves to be. Why I can¬ not imagine, as it is easily cultivated and produces handsome spikes of small Orchid-like and nearly pure white flowers, the lower lip only being mottled with purple, in great profusion during the dull late autumn and early winter months. The spikes produce a second display sometimes superior to the first blooming ; and a group of well-grown plants, such, for instance, as can be seen at Ashton Court near Bristol, under the charge of Mr. Austin, cannot fail to be pleasing to the most fastidious. Nothing is re¬ quired to ‘ show them off,’ as well-grown plants are furnished with abundance of broad and smooth green foliage, and no other colour better agrees with white. The species is much liable to become infested with scale and other insect pests that are too plentiful in our stoves ; but this ought to be no hindrance to the widespread culture of such a charming flower.” • - “ W. B.,” writing in reference to Mushroom culture, says, “ It may be interesting to many readers of this Journal to know that the excellent practice detailed by Mr. Wright a short time ago is now beiDg followed by Mr. Smith, Maiden Lane, Clubmore, Liverpool, with marked success. A fortnight ago he had already cut over 300 lbs., and 47 lbs. in one week. Mr. Smith has made slight mistakes in spawning the beds when too warm in some instances, and not affording sufficient covering in others* Less could scarcely have been anticipated, as he had nbt the slightest acquaintance with the system of Mushroom-growing described. Mr. Smith has, however, succeeded beyond his ex¬ pectations, and at this early period of his practice considers Mushroom-growing more profitable than growing Cucumbers. He has Mushroom beds made up in his Cucumber houses in Orange boxes, flat hampers, and in almost every conceivable corner and manner. There can be but little doubt that in a very short time with experience and the guidance of the articles referred to, Mr. Smith will become an expert in the production of Mushrooms for market.” - At the last meeting of the Meteorological Society the following papers were read : — 1, “ Popular Weather Prog¬ nostics,” by the Hon. R. Abercromby, F.M.S., and Mr. W. Marriott, F.M.S. The authors explain over one hundred prognostics by showing that they make their appearance in definite positions, relative to the areas of high and low atmospheric pressure shown in synoptic charts. The method adopted not only explains many which have not hitherto been accounted for, but enables the failure as well as the success of any prognostic to be traced by following the history of the weather of the day on a synoptic chart. The forms discussed are cyclones, anticyclones, wedge- shaped and straight isobars. The weather in the last two is now described for the first time. They also point out (1) that prog¬ nostics will never be superseded for use at sea and other solitary situations ; and (2) that prognostics can be usefully combined with charts in synopic forecasting, especially in certain classes of showers and thunderstorms which do not affect the reading of the barometer. 2, “ Report on the Phenological Observations for the year 1882,” by the Rev. T. A. Preston, M.A., F.M.S. The most important feature of the phenological year was the mild winter. The effect of this upon vegetation was decidedly favourable, and had it not been for the gales, especially that of April 28th, the foliage would have been luxuriant, and therefore free from insect attacks ; but the contrary effect has been produced on insect life, for the scarcity of insects, especially butterflies and moths, has been the general remark of entomologists. Mr. J. S. Dyason, F.R.G.S., exhibited a series of typical clouds in monochrome, and also a series of sketches of clouds in colour made in June, July, and August, 1882. - The large bush of the grand flowering and most deli¬ ciously fragrant greenhouse shrub Luculia gratissima, which is growing in the central portion of the cool conservatory range at Glasnevin, has been particularly floriferous, and the Hydrangea¬ like flower heads particularly large and fine this winter, from 150 to 200 being open at a time, and still plenty to succeed them. It is certainly a charming shrub, which no conservatory should want. Now that it has been demonstrated that dwarf plants with fine heads of flowers can be grown in 6-inch pots its popu¬ larity will be largely increased, and the appearance of such plants as familiar at Christmastide as are those of the gorgeously coloured but scentless Poinsettia. — (JmA Farmer's Gazette.') PLANTING VINES. This subject has been much discussed, and various opinions have been expressed regarding it. Notes of the experience of any who have been successful in the method pursued by them cannot fail to carry more weight than mere opinions stated without facts to support them. My experience leads me to favour planting in March, April, and May. Young Vines struck from eyes, grown on turf, and root- pruned before being lifted for planting, have done splendidly with me, and grew rapidly without a symptom of a check from the transplanting. Compare this method with planting a Vine out of a pot, where the roots have to be torn and laid out in long strings and go rambling away in all directions. The young Vines planted out of the bed of turf had a mass of short fibry roots ready to begin and seize hold of the soil close round the stem, and so work their way gradually along the border. The Vines planted made 30 feet of growth, and this was the length of many of the rods that came away from them. When cut down the stems were found to be as hard as oak, and some of them half an inch in diameter 20 feet from the base. By constant feeding on the surface of the borders young Vines may be induced to produce roots mostly near the surface, and can thus be kept more under control. I have seen Vines planted in July make splendid growth and ripen their wood remarkably well, but, other things being equal, I would prefer planting earlier. Vines one year old, if they have been grown on the root-pruning system, plant very well out of pots, as they have plenty of short fibry roots ready to enter the border. I have also planted Vines two years old that had been grown on the old-fashioned system, and had only one or two long roots coiled round the outside of the ball. In early spring these were shaken out of the soil they were in and planted in some loam prepared for them, and which was placed in a position that enabled the Vines to have some bottom heat. They were kept in this situation for about a month, by the end of which time they had made some young fibry roots ; being carefully lifted and planted in their permanent quarters these Vines progressed well, making wonderful growths and countless roots. I have often observed young Vines planted in an early vinery after the Grapes had been cut and the house was being kept cool, the consequence, of course, being that the young Vines made little or no progress that season. Young Vines when planted in the way I have mentioned above — viz., from the turf, well repay their cultivator, and I would advise all who can prepare their Vines in this manner to do so. When Vines have to be obtained from nurserymen for planting, a month’s sojourn among turf and with some bottom heat to start them will be found a good preparation for planting, provided always that the house in which they are permanently planted is kept warm and moisture supplied in sufficient quantities both in the air and at the roots. When planted the Vines should have a good watering with tepid water, and it would be of much benefit to them if all subsequent waterings for the first year were with tepid water. Planting Vines in cold soil and then watering with cold water cannot be too severely condemned. Warming soil enough to cover the roots when planted is another thing that conduces to the well- 10 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 4, 1883. being of the Vines. Attention to such details as the foregoing goes a long way to insure success. The difference between Vines treated in some such manner as I have described and others treated in the way I have often seen practised is so great, that the extra trouble incurred should never be grudged ; and all who wish quick returns from their vineries should follow the system recommended, and which experience has led me to regard as the method best suited for the successful growth of the Vine when planted. — Vitis. NEW AND CERTIFICATED PLANTS OF 1882. MESSRS. J. VEITCH & SONS, CHELSEA. For some years past the records of the Royal Horticultural Society’s meetings, the exhibitions of the Royal Botanic Society, and the larger provincial shows have afEorded substantial and remarkable evidence of the efforts made by nurserymen to meet the ever-increasing demands for novelties. Annually large num¬ bers of plants are exhibited as candidates for certificates, and some hundreds are yearly deemed worthy of this honour. That the care exercised by the exhibitors in selection is considerable is mani¬ fested by the fact that the proportion of novelties for which recog¬ nition is claimed, and which fail to obtain it, is very small. As might be expected, however, really striking novelties are not ex¬ tremely abundant, and in many genera of plants the improvement Fig. 2.— Primula obconica. is very gradual ; indeed, among some classes of florists’ flowers, such as Roses, Pelargoniums, Auriculas, Carnations, and Picotees, there is scarcely room for any great advance, though more or less meritorious and distinct varieties may be continually added to the lists. Newly introduced species of plants yield some remarkable and beautiful additions, whilst amongst Orchids improved varie¬ ties are being rapidly increased in numbers, and in most cases far surpass the original forms. The year 1882 has been equally as prolific of novelties as its predecessors, about four hundred plants having been certificated at metropolitan and provincial shows, by far the greater majority being at the former. These were staged by sixty-five exhibitors, and amongst them Messrs. J. Veitch Sc Sons took the leading place with over seventy certificates — quite an imposing array of plants, and comprising many of great merit. Some of the best of these may be briefly noted to indicate the general features of the im¬ provements effected. Rhododendrons. — These deserve prominent notice amongst the Chelsea novelties, for some of these may be considered as founding a distinct type of the greenhouse hybrid class. R. bal- samiflorum, R. balsamiflorum album, and R. balsamiflorum aureum form a trio of remarkable plants with handsome double flowers, pink, white, and yellow respectively. These are borne in large heads, and a well-grown plant is exceedingly beautiful. The white variety is faithfully shown in our woodcut, page 83, last volume, and displays the characters of this new departure in an already beautiful and much-appreciated race of plants. Two others of the single greenhouse forms also deserve notice — viz., R. Aurora, which has pinkish salmon-coloured flowers of great size and fine form, the individual blooms much surpassing the others in size : and R. Excelsior, having buff flowers streaked with red, and forming a dense head. R. Fosterianum, of the R. Veitchianum type, with large, wavy, pure white flowers, is also a handsome addition to the genus. Amaryllises. — Similarly to the Rhododendrons, the great attention paid to Amaryllises at Chelsea within recent years has resulted in the production of some magnificent forms, and early in the year a superb display of these at the nursery attracted scores of visitors. The size and form of the blooms having been wonderfully improved, considerable advances have been also made in increasing the richness and diversity of tints. For bril¬ liancy these plants are unrivalled, and it may be confidently expected that they will continue to grow in popular favour. Of the varieties certificated the finest are The Giant, blooms of great size, crimson ; Shakespeare, bright scarlet barred with white ; Indian Chief, rich crimson, also barred with white ; Charles Dickens, crimson-scarlet ; Baron Schroder, dark crimson, large and of good form ; Duchess of Connaught, white ; Duke of Albany, very bright scarlet ; and Autumn Beauty, a pretty hybrid between A. reticulata and one of the scarlet varieties, the leaves having a central band of white, the flowers pale pink, nearly white, veined with a darker hue. Orchids. — The vast stores of Orchids at Chelsea contain not only all the best of the varieties, species, and hybrids in general cultivation, but also numbers of rarities and new introductions which are from time to time brought before the public, to the great delight of all orchidists. As usual during the past year Messrs. J. Veitch have well maintained their credit in this depart¬ ment, and added to the fast-increasing numbers of Orchids. Half a dozen of these may be selected as uncommonly meritorious. First two Odontoglots — viz., 0. Leeanum and O. Pescatorei Veitchii, claim notice, the former having yellow flowers thickly spotted with rich chocolate, and the latter having flowers of con¬ siderable size, white, heavily spotted and barred with intense crimson. Both are superb Orchids, but the last is a magnificent variety, and surprisingly distinct from the species. Ccelogyne cristata Lemoniana is a charming variety of a most useful Orchid, the lip being pale yellow instead of orange as in the ordinary type. Sobralia xantholeuca is very distinct and attractive, with bright yellow flowers, the sepals, petals, and lip differing slightly in the depth of tint ; it might be almost considered as a yellow S. macrantha. Phalsenopsis tetraspis is a neat dwarf species with racemes of small white flowers — a great contrast to the large -flowered P. gran- diflora, but possessing a quiet beauty of its own. Another fine Phalmnopsis merits a few words, not because it has been certifi¬ cated this year, but from its rarity, beauty, and being named in honour of the firm whose productions are now very noted. P. Veitchiana is a native of the Phillipine Islands, and bears flowers somewhat resembling P. Schilleriana, but with smaller purple flowers, the lip whitish, spotted with dark purple. The woodcut (fig. 3), from a drawing by Mr. Burbidge, faithfully depicts the characters of the species. Fine-foliage Plants. — Dracaenas and Crotons are now so numerous that really distinct and handsome new varieties are every year becoming more scarce. In 1882, however, two fine Crotons were shown by Messrs. Veitch and duly honoured — viz., Dayspring and Aureo-marginatus, the former with elliptical leaves, yellow margined with green, and the older leaves suffused with red in the centre ; the other has large leaves a foot long, rich yellow, spotted and blotched with green. Dracaena Thompsoniana is a noble form of bold habit, with broad tapering green leaves, something in the way of a Cordyline. Amongst fine-foliage plants, however, the most striking of the year is Leea amabilis, figured in this Journal, page 283, April 6tb, 1882, which will doubtlessly quickly become a great favourite, as it is easily grown and developes its characters admirably in a young state. The leaves are glossy green and pinnate, each leaflet being striped down the centre with silvery white. In habit it is compact and vigorous, but appears to require a brisk stove temperature to in¬ sure its success. Nepenthes at Chelsea are multitudinous, and two fine forms January 4, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 11 have been certificated during the past season — i.e., N. Rajah, the giant of its family, and N. Mastersiana (figured on page 275 last vol.), one of the richest and deepest-coloured in cultivation. With these the Sarracenias may be mentioned, a trio of handsome forms having been placed on the lists. S. melanorrhoda has very dark leaves. S. porphyroneura of a fine red hue, and S. Courti, a beautiful hybrid between S. psittacina and S. purpurea, and showing the characters of both. Under this head the Japanese Maples are noteworthy as really useful and graceful plants. A. japonicum aureum, A. crataegifolium Yeitchii, A. polymorphum lineaiilobum, decompositum, and ribesifolium differ greatly in the forms of their leaves, and have all been honoured with certificates. In addition to the above many others could be noted, such as the Hyacinths, Begonias, Liliums, &c. ; but this review of the Yeitchian novelties of 1882 may be fittingly concluded with a reference to the pretty little Primula obconica, represented in fig. 2. This has been certificated both at Kensington and Re¬ gent’s Park, and it well deserves the attention it has received. It is a Japanese species, somewhat in the way of P. cortusoides, the flowers being of a pale purplish lavender or mauve colour — a very , Fig. 3. — PlIAL.EKOPSTS VEITCHIANA. delicate tint, and are borne in close trusses that are freely pro¬ duced. It is dwarf in habit, and thrives well in a cool house, and probably will prove hardy in sheltered positions. EASTER BEURRE AND BEURRE RANCE PEARS. With your well-known kindness and readiness you favoured me, through “our Journal” of 26th of October last, with a list of the best and finest late Pears to be grown against a south wall for profit, but did not include in the list either Easter Beurr6 or Beurre Ranee. Will you please state the objections to these two well-known and old Pears 1 With regard to Easter Beurr6, many reliable French and Belgian authorities recommend this variety before all others for hot wall and warm soil, and Mr. Pearson of Chilwell, so far north as Nottingham, says it only ought to be grown on a wall ; whilst many experienced advisers in this country say “often mealy and insipid from a wall, but excellent from trees in the open.” This sounds as if the wall was too dry and warm, yet in the warm parts of France it is advised for warm aspects on walls and for warm soils. This seeming contradiction with re¬ gard to this Pear has no doubt perplexed many of your readers besides me, and no doubt you will be able to enlighten us on the matter. — S. S., Oaltleigli Park, London, JV. [Concluding that the London clay is the staple soil in the district indicated, we did not think the varieties in question, 12 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 4, 1883. which are proverbially fickle, could be relied on for always producing fine fruit of superior quality. If our readers who grow these Pears will describe the conditions and circumstances under which they succeed or fail, the information will be of service to others besides our correspondent.] LILIUM LONGIFLORUM IN WINTER. Last winter I received a number of bulbs of Lilium longiflorum from Holland. They flowered very well in a greenhouse, the stems being 3 feet in height. After the plants in one pot con¬ taining six bulbs had flowered I planted the mass out in the garden, and finding in September that a number of very stout stems were again appearing I repotted and placed it in the green¬ house. I have fourteen good buds on the plants now, and three expanded flowers looking grand in this dismal weather. Is this the ordinary L. longiflorum or the variety called eximium ? Whichever it is, it seems to me that it must be very useful to gar¬ deners who have to keep conservatories looking well during the winter. My greenhouse is only a small one, and during the severe frost has been down to 38° Fahr. several times, but the flowers do not seem to suffer. — John Pearson, Radcliffe, ST. JOHN'S WORTS. This is the family name given to th# plants of the genus Hypericum. In spite of the wide difference of habit and habitat amongst these plants, there is a strong family resemblance between the flowers of all of them. The generic name is gene¬ rally mispronounced, and I have seen most improbable and far¬ fetched derivations suggested for it. The word is Greek, and is found in the writings of Dioscorides, a Greek doctor, who wrote on medicinal plants. He spells it Hypereilton ; and there can be little reasonable doubt that it is compounded of Ilyp (in Latin sub) and ereike (Latin erica'), the diphthong being of course long by nature, as well as the i of the Latin name. Turned into English the name is “Under-Heath,” and if it is asked why the St. John’s Wort should have this name, we must give a few words of general explanation. Upon the revival of the study of ancient Greek and Latin, botanists and scholars did their best to identify the ancient names of shrubs and plants with those known to them. Though it was known that they had made many mistakes, more recent research has done little to correct them. The laborious attempts made at the beginning of this century by that distinguished scholar and botanist, Professor Sibthorpe, are well known. He spent several years in Greece with the special object of studying in their native country the plants mentioned by the ancients. He gave us in his “ Flora Grmca ” one of the most splendid botanical works ever produced, but made very little progress in the identification of names ; the subject is therefore almost exhausted, and little new light can ever be thrown upon it. We cannot, therefore, be sure that the Hypereikcn of the Greeks was a St. John’s Wort at all, so it is quite superfluous to inquire why it was called “ Under-Heath.” As for the English name, there is a general consent that it was given because the commonest of the wild kinds, H. perforatum, comes into flower about St. John’s day ; or more properly, bear¬ ing in mind that the name was given under the old style, about the beginning of July. It is proposed in these notes to give an account of the mode of growing the kinds of St. John's Wort cultivated by me in my garden in Cheshire, about a dozen in number. The commonest of them is H. calycinum, generally and rightly called the Large- flowered St.John’s Wort, a plant better suited for the shrubbery border or the wild garden than- for mixed flower beds. It spreads rapidly, and in cultivated ground or favourable wild spots soon forms a compact evergreen mass against which no weak plants can hold their ground, and it claims undisputed possession. It must not, however, be expected to compete successfully with the roots of Elm or Ash trees, or similar surface-feeders. I have seen it most ornamental and luxuriant amongst wild walks in pleasure grounds in Surrey, but on cold soils, like the clay of Cheshire, it is more difficult to establish in wild situations, and when established it is liable to be cut to the ground and afterwards smothered by weeds by such winters as that of 1880. Though naturalised in several places, and often admitted in lists of British plants, it belongs to the south-east of Europe, and is, therefore, hardly likely to be a native plant. It is the only St. John’s Wort that is appreciated as it deserves to be, and there is hardly a garden of any extent in some part of which it is not to be found. The same, however, cannot be said of that hardiest of St. John’s Worts H. olympicum, a very neat and ornamental plant, but neglected because it requires about as much cultivation as is generally given to a bedding Pansy. It is said to be a native of the Mysian Olympus ; but Mr. G. Maw, who has searched that range for plants, told me that he had never seen it there ; still, whatever its native country, it is a most desirable plant, growing about 18 inches high, and producing in summer a profusion of flowers nearly as large as those of H. calycinum. Its cultivation is important, as it is of shrubby habit, never spreading at the root, but breaking into new growth from the base of the flower stalks before they die, which they do at the end of summer. This young growth is never injured by frost, so that the plant is evergreen. It is, however, short-lived, generally dying in my garden at three years old. The only way of increasing the plant is by small cuttings, about an inch long, taken from the eDd of the young shoots at any time from spring to autumn, which strike easily under glass. Those taken in autumn are ready to plant out by April, and make late-flowering plants the first season. The second year they are at their best, and always attract atten¬ tion at this stage. They cannot be safely transplanted if more than a year old, and I have more than once tried without success to divide them by cutting through the root. Established plants do well in any soil or situation ; but from what has been said it will be understood that they must not be lost sight of or forgotten, but a fresh stock propagated every year. Those who grow it know it to be well worth the little trouble it gives. I come now to three or four shrubs, to which I give the same treatment in propagation as to the last-mentioned, but for a diffe¬ rent reason — that they are not quite hardy. Though they lived through the exceptional winter of 1881, they can be depended upon to survive bad winters unhurt only in the more favoured gardens of the south-west of England or of North Wales. The largest of them is H. oblongifolium, which in Devonshire grows into an upright shrub 3 or 4 feet high, bearing bunches of large wax-like flowers with petals as thick and as solid as those of a Camellia. Better known is the elegant dwarf bush generally sold as H. patulum, but which botanists say is not the true H. patulum of Eastern Asia, but a hybrid. However this may be, it is a most desirable plant. Cuttings of it may be pre¬ served through winter in store pots like those of scarlet Pelar¬ goniums ; and these, planted out in May, grow as fast, but do not flower until August, from which time they continue to flower till checked by hard frost. A third shrub of similar habit, and doing well under similar treatment, but smaller both in its leaf and its flower, is named H. uralum. It is so like a dwarfed edition of H. patulum that I consider it hardly worth growing in addition to it ; in fact, the so-called H. patulum is the best of the three, being more bushy and compact than oblongifolium, though the flowers are not quite so large. As there are at least seven or eight more St. John’s Worts of which I wish to speak, it may be better to defer mention of them to another issue. — C. W. Dod. DUKE OF BUCCLEUCH GRAPE. In reply to your correspondent who asks about the late-keeping qualities of the Duke, I beg to say that the Vine was planted in an inside border in a Muscat house, and was carefully attended to in regard to being kept drier at the root than is usual for most other varieties. Of course it was ripe much earlier than the Muscat, and was subjected to more heat than it ordinarily gets. It was fit for use on the 1st of August, and I cut the last bunches the la t week of January, having left several just to try how long they would keep. The berries had shrunk a little, were of a deep golden colour and a delicious sugary flavour. I do not mean to say that the Duke is fitted for a late Grape, but the fact remains that it can be kept long after it is ripe. — Northern. CULTURE OF RICHARDIA ^THIOPICA. This is now a valued plant in many gardens, and its cultiva¬ tion is likely to extend as its good qualities become better known. The plant is useful for decoration, it stands room treatment well, the spathes are highly appreciated, few last longer fresh, and it is very easy to grow. Provided certain conditions are carried out no plant can be more accommodating. A plant may be brought into bloom at a given time at any season of the year, or the same plant may be flowering the whole year. It may be successfully cultivated and flowered in a 5 or 6-inch pot, or placed in clumps in the largest size pot made. As to soil it is less particular than any cultivated plant I know. It can be propagated successfully at any season. The old-fashioned way of growing the Richardia was to dry the plants during summer, repot in autumn, and flower them in spring. I do not think this is the best way. Drying the plants may do no harm, it certainly does no good. January 4, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 18 When properly managed growth is continuous if water is liberally supplied and a moist warm temperature provided. When spathes are not wanted until spring, or until the Chrysanthemum season is past, keep the plants growing slowly until a month before being wanted, then give a temperature of 55° to 65°, and as long as such a temperature continues the plants will grow and flower. We have plants which were housed in October and which were brought into flower in the end of that month ; they are still flower¬ ing, and will continue to do so until May, when their spathes will be no longer required. The general culture of these plants, briefly stated, is to pot them from the open ground in September, one strong growth in an 8 or 9-inch pot, those with two and three growths being placed in larger sizes and in boxes. They grow and flower in any soil pro¬ vided they get plenty of water. A few years ago we accidentally found that placing each pot in a large saucer kept full of water was of great advantage, causing a more floriferous condition, and the blooms of a larger size. An occasional surface-dressing, with a mixture of manure and loam in equal proportions and a weekly application of sulphate of ammonia, are valuable aids to this plant. When the plants are placed in a temperature such as noted above a spathe will start from the sheath of one of the largest leaves. While this is growing upwards and opening other leaves are being formed from the main central growth. By-and- by a second spathe will appear behind the first. This will have developed before the central growth has produced another leaf ; but provided the temperature is high enough to favour the full development of the foliage, spathes will follow from about the third leaf from the one which produced the first, and so the succession of leaves and spathes continues as long as the conditions are secured for the proper growth of the plant. Further side growths attain con¬ siderable strength throughout the winter months, and in spring some of these produce spathes. Occasionally they come merely as white flowers with a tinge of green at the point, occasionally the spathes are doubled. In May the plants are placed out of doors, where they are protected from any late frosts (in autumn a few degrees of frost are not hurtful) which damage the tissue of the foliage if exposed. In June we divide the plants, planting the pieces out and tying the foliage to stout stakes. If the soil is dry a good watering is necessary. Last summer we used these as decorative flower- garden plants, and found them as useful in that position as they had been throughout the winter and spring ; this year they will occupy a prominent position in the flower garden. To return to its culture in pots. The offsets produced are useful if taken off at the time the plants are divided and placed into 5 or 6-inch pots, in which they may be had to flower throughout the next winter and spring. To illustrate the ease these may be managed, last June about fifty of these offsets were thus potted in leaf soil ; they were kept in a shady corner well watered. The strongest have flowered, and others are coming on in succession. Insects arc easily washed off with a syringe. — B. Pear Josephine de Malines. — In answer to the query concern¬ ing this very delicious Pear as to the time of its ripening, I may state that at Holme Lacy it was generally quite fit for table by the first week in December. Those from the cordons on a south wall were a few days earlier than those from a fan-trained tree on a west wall. The trees are on the Quince stock. I used to think it was the Quince stock that caused the earliness. A tree on the Pear stock on an east wall would not ripen its fruit at all. — A. Young. Fig. S. — Turf Lifting. or stout piece of wire 2 feet long, so that it project 1 foot on each side of the knife, as shown at a, fig. 4. This tool is used to cut the turf into the necessary widths. A line is used to cut the first width, as at b, c. Place the racer so that the end of the cross rod touches the line, and so guide the cutting of the first turf. The line is then dispensed with, as each cut made across the grass forms a guide to cutting of the next one. This simple tool saves many a weary hour’s work with line and edging-iron. The turf has next to be cut into lengths of from 4 to 6 feet and at right angles to the other, as shown at a, a , a., fig. 5. This is best done by placing the line at the proper distances and running the racer along on the top of it, the knife being close to it. The next point to be considered is the level. The best plan is to lift a single width of turf all along each end, and others across the lawn at distances of about 10 yards apart. By means of borning-rods insert level pegs in these bare spaces at every second length of turf. This will show where the ground has to be made up or reduced. If possible begin where it has to be reduced. The lifting should be done by two men and a boy. The men must each TURFING. The lifting and relaying a quantity of turf is generally looked upon as a very laborious operation, and it is so at best ; but with proper appliances, and a little forethought in devisiDg a regular plan and method of working, much may be done to expedite this operation, if but little to alleviate the real hard work that it in¬ volves. This sort of work may be done any time from September till March, but, like planting shrubs, the sooner it is done in the autumn the better it is for the turf. It should especially be avoided late in the spring, as it is so apt to be dried up and disfigured for half the season if there are a few weeks of dry weather before midsummer. Dull weather after a good rain is a suitable time to lift turf, as it works more freely when wet. We often see lawns not satisfactory in the way of evenness. I do not mean that all lawns ought to be level, only that they should be free from hollows. In stiff adhesive soils the rain forms minia¬ ture lakes for days, and thus makes the lawn wetter than if no lodgment was found for it, as in the case of an even surface be it level or sloping. Lifting round patches and filling up hollows is never satisfactory ; by far the best plan is to lift the whole. To anyone commencing such an undertaking I would commend to his notice the following mode of procedure. Suppose, for instance, that a lawn has to be made suitable for lawn tennis without materially altering the level of it. In the first place let him proceed to make what in Sussex is called turf- racers— -a very simple but useful tool. It is represented at fig. 4, and may be made of any similarly shaped piece of wood which may be found in the stick heap. The thick end of this may either be split with a saw, or a hole bored at a sharp angle to admit of a knife being fixed in the position shown. The latter may be made of the point of an old scythe blade, and should be fixed to project 2^ inches from the wood. Now obtain a piece of stout zinc — corrugated zinc roofing beaten out flat will do— about 2 feet long by 6 inches wide. Cut this into the shape of a canoe ; but make one end taper to a sharp point about 9 inches from the broad end, and in the centre cut a very narrow opening, just sufficient to let the knife through, and with a few screws fasten this on as a sole-piece, bending it to fit the wood. Next bore a hole just in front of the knife, and fit jnt0 it a straight round rod JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 4, 1863. 14 be provided with a turf spade. At b, c (fig. 5) is shown what I think is the best and quickest way to cut the turf. The first man ( b ) cuts the turf half way, the other taking it up at that point and finishing it, while the boy, standing in front, rolls it up just behind the spade, having it in rows, as at d, ready for moving. Having lifted two widths carry the turves to the other side of the lawn and pack them neatly. This piece may then be levelled to the pegs previously inserted, treading it firmly when it has to be made up, then point lightly over, having a smooth surface. If there should be any soil to spare it should be laid on the unlifted turf near to, but on the opposite side of, some of the largest hollows where it will be required. The next two widths is then lifted, and one of them may be at once placed on the new levelled ground, and the other laid in position, but not unrolled. The second piece is then levelled, and the next turves laid upon it, and so on till all is done. Planks must always be used in carrying the turf, as the newly pointed ground must not be stepped upon till the turf is laid down. It should then be closely trodden over with the feet, smoothed with a turf-beater, and afterwards occasionally rolled during showery weather. If dry weather causes the edges of the turf to part fill them up by working some fine soil across the lawn with brooms. — R. INGLIS. THE COOL SYSTEM OF GRAPE CULTURE. At page 550 your correspondent, “ Vitis ” condemns the cool system of Grape culture, and says it is “ a penny wise and pound foolish ” one ; while, at page 547 he says it takes seven months to ripen such Grapes as the Duke of Buccleuch, Muscat Ham¬ burgh, and Madresfield Court ! — in his own words from the middle of February till the middle of September, when, provided they are “generously treated in regard to heat,” & c., they “should be in good condition for the table,” Muscats to be “ allowed a little longer time to ripen.” In reply, I have to say that treatment which requires such a long time to render such Gi'apes fit for the table can be no other than cool treatment, for seven months is far in excess of the period required by these Grapes to ripen, nor is such time allowed even by those who do practise cool temperatures. I have tried both systems, and I am certain that “ Vitis1 s ” system must be the cool one, and his success must be added to the many examples that have proved the cool system to be the right one. All the three varieties named are early Grapes. Madresfield Court with me ripens every year in less than six months or thereabouts under the cool system, and the Muscat Hamburgh in the same time as the Black Hamburgh, which, at the most unfavourable season of the year can be matured in five months. I have done it within that period with Vines in pots, and six months is the outside period that Vine requires. And now mark, the Duke of Buccleuch Grape was sent out with the character of being earlier than even the Hamburgh, which is the case. Mr. Barron, when visiting Clovenfords to report on that Grape, in his report said, “ It was evidently some weeks earlier than the Black Hamburgh ” grown in the same house. “Few of the Hamburghs were ripe or fit to cut, whereas the Duke had been cut and sent to market a month previously.” Further comment is needless, and I leave the reader to judge whether the treatment was cool or warm that took seven months to render such Grapes fit for the table, which is only another term for “ ripe.” There is only one general plan known to gardeners of keeping Grapes back, and that is to keep them cool, a plan which “ Vitis ” has furnished the best kind of evidence possible to prove he has followed with marked success. — Vitis Secundus. [By the most sldlful Cultivators in the several Departments .] KITCHEN GARDEN. Forcing vegetables is now an easier matter than it has been during the last two months, and quantities of choice and useful kinds may be brought forward. From now onwards there is no better way of forcing Asparagus than in frames placed on hot¬ beds made up with leaves and stable manure. When the frame is placed on the bed a thin layer of soil is spread over the surface, on which the roots are packed closely, and the crowns and roots are covered with more soil. When growth begins air and light are needed to impart high flavour. Seahale and Rhubarb roots need not be lifted for forcing now, but may be covered with pots, old boxes, or casks, these in turn being covered with fermenting material. Growth will soon begin, and the roots will remain uninjured, which is not the case when they are lifted to be forced. Kidney Beans should now be sown in quantity ; six or eight seeds may be placed into a 3-inch pot, filled with a mixture of loam and half-decayed manure. They will grow readily in a temperature of 60°. Apply water sparingly at first. When the plants are about 4 inches high they may be shifted into 8-inch pots. Planting early -frame Potatoes should now be general. A firm well-made hotbed is very suitable for them, but when only a dish or two is wanted they may be grown in 10-inch pots. The soil for all should be rich, and if on a hotbed should be a foot in depth. The sets should be placed 15 inches apart each way, and tubers with stout short growths are the best for planting. A little air should be admitted on all favourable occasions, and protection other than the glass lights should never be given unless in very severe weather. Turnip-rooted Radish, Mustard and Cress, Lettuce, Cauliflower, and Cabbage seed may be sown between the rows of Potatoes. The salads will be matured and used before the stems meet, and the other plants will have had a good start and be ready for planting in other frames or elsewhere. One or more frames of Carrots should also be sown on beds prepared as for Potatoes, but the soil should be light, free, and not very rich. A few Vegetable Marrow seeds may be sown as a first crop. They should be treated like Cucumbers both in sowing and afterwards. Early Peas may be sown in various ways. Raising them in turves and old troughs are good methods, but of late years we have sown all ours in 3-inch pots, placing a dozen or more seeds in each, and at planting time we put the little clumps about a foot apart without breaking the mat of roots which they form. There is less check from this than any other way. A few rows of Broad Beans may be sown in the open ; a deep rich soil suits them best. The rows may be 4 feet apart and 3 inches deep. Peas may also be sown on a warm sheltered border. They delight in a well- drained soil ; in fact it is no use sowing Peas in a cold wet soil at this season, as the seed would decay. Thick sowing should be the rule now. FRUIT-FORCING. Melons. — If ripe Melons are required by the end of April or beginning of May the seed should be sown now. At this early season sow the seeds singly in 3-inch pots of light turfy loam, not more than half filling the pots with soil, which will leave space for top-dressing when the plants require it, plunging to the rim in a hotbed made of fermenting materials, and cover the pots with a piece of clean glass, which, however, should be removed as soon as the plants appear. Almost every grower has his favourite variety, but we ■ may mention Davenham Early, Eastnor Castle, and William Tillery in green-fleshed varieties ; Scarlet Gem and Hero of Bath in scarlet-fleshed varieties. Cucumbers. — Every opportunity should be taken on bright days to make the most of the sun’s rays by closing early in the after¬ noon, sprinkling the house at the same time with tepid water. The pathways and other available surfaces should be damped every morning, and the plants also, using a very fine-rose syringe for the latter. Let tepid liquid manure in a weak state be given to plants growing freely. A top-dressing of two parts turfy loam and one of horse droppings brought to the same temperature as the house will greatly invigorate the plants. Some fermenting materials — two parts Oak or Beech leaves and one of stable litter — should be thrown together at once to make a hotbed, where no better means exist to raise young plants and subsequently to plant them in. The fermenting material, having been turned twice to allow the rank heat to escape, will then be in a fit state for making a hotbed, which should have a south aspect and have a wall, evergreen hedge, or other shelter from the north. The site should be higher than the ground surrounding it, so as to drain the water from the bed, or a few faggots placed underneath the hotbed will answer the same purpose. A bed about 6 feet high at the back and 5 feet high in the front will be necessary at this season to allow for shrinking, which will be fully one-third. When the bed is warmed through, as it will be in about a week with the frame and lights on, level any inequalities in the bed, placing sufficient fermenting material inside the frame to raise it to a uniform height ; then 3 or 4 inches depth of short dung and 3 or 4 inches depth of sawdust for plunging the plants in, and when this is warmed through sow the seeds singly in 3-inch pots of light rich soil, leaving room for top-dressing the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 4, 1883. ] 15 plants when they require it. Plunge the pots to the iims, cover¬ ing them with a clean piece of glass, which must he removed as soon as the plants appear. Telegraph is one of the best Cucumbers in cultivation. Figs. — Trees started in November to give Figs fit for gathering early in May will be throwing out fresh rootlets plentifully, and, instead of allowing them to go direct into the leaves, good pieces of turf should be placed round the rims to keep the roots near home and encourage a sturdy growth. The bottom heat should be kept steady at 75° to 80° from the commencement of the swell¬ ing of the fruit until it begins to ripen. Take advantage of sun¬ shine to raise the temperature with a little fire heat to 80°, but for the present the night temperature should be kept at C0°. As growth advances disbud and stop all gross shoots ; but the finest Figs are borne on free healthy trees grown on the extension system. The second house should be closed at once to give a supply of ripe fruit early in June, and as the trees in this structure will be planted out in inside borders good waterings with liquid manure at 85° must be given until the soil is thoroughly moist. Figs require quantities of water, hence the borders should be properly drained. PLANT HOUSES. ' Stove. — This house should now be gay with Euphorbias, Poin- settias, Plumbagos, Gesnerias, and other plants that flower freely at this season if properly prepared for the purpose. Nothing is gained now by maintaining a higher night temperature than G0° to 65°, according to the weather externally, with a rise of 5° during the day. After a moderate season’s rest the plants will, with increased daylight and the temperature slightly raised, in a few weeks make much greater progress than would be the case if hurried on by hard firing from this date. If bug, scale, or thrips exist upon the plants means should now be taken to destroy them, for with increased heat and moisture they will spread rapidly and be a source of trouble the whole season while the young foliage of the plants is tender. For the two former nothing is better than petroleum used at the rate of 4£ ozs. to 4 gallons of rain water. It is only by practice and ex¬ perience that this valuable insecticide can be safely used ; if left to the inexperienced injury is sure to result. Under these cir¬ cumstances when such work has to be left to others it is the safest to use Fir-tree oil, tobacco water, and a little softsoap for thrips. The structure in which the plants are grown should be tho¬ roughly cleaned ; this should be done even if no insects exist, either by painting the woodwork, which will be drier now in all probability than at any other time during the year. It is a good plan to wash the woodwork and glass previous to painting. Where painting is not required, then washing only will need attention, using a fair quantity of petroleum in the water. The walls should be liinewashed. but before doing so wash them with muriatic acid and water. This is invaluable for destroying bug that may have become established in the walls, and will even remove the whole of the green if used strong enough from the flags of any stonework in the house. The pipes and staging (if iron) should be painted with lampblack and boiled oil mixed thinly and applied while the pipes are warm. This dries quickly and the smell is not offensive, and if the pipes are made hot directly after painting is done it will not injure the most tender foliage. The material upon the stages for retaining moisture, whether gravel, cocoa-nut fibre, or anything else, should be removed and fresh supplied. FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Owing to the long-continued rainy weather operations in this department must be limited to sweeping and rolling the walks and turf where necessary, and otherwise preserving a neat appear¬ ance. Where, however, there is much work to be done all must not be postponed. For instance, walks may be formed or reno¬ vated, as the case may be, the fresh material if necessary being wheeled on planks. A walk to be permanent and fit for use at all times must be drained and well made. The bottom should be rounded, if it is intended to dispose 2-inch drain pipes on each side ; or hollowed, if a single drain formed with 3-inch drain pipes is taken down the centre. A thick layer of rough stones, brick ends, or clinkers should then be disposed over the bottom, and this will form a good foundation for the finer surface gravel. Of the latter about 3 inches is required. If good binding gravel is scarce it should be reserved for surfacing, and this in some instances — notably near the metropolis— requires to be freely watered as it is being rolled. In ail cases the walks should be well rounded ; and where they are steep, to prevent the gravel being washed away paved gutters should be formed, while if only moderately steep it will only be necessary to build cesspools with open gratings at intervals along the sides, these being in connec¬ tion with the drain or drains under the walk. Selecting and Ordering Roses. — It is not advisable to procure the majority of shrubs and deciduous trees early in this month, as there is the risk of the weather hindering planting, and those with balls of earth attached especially are injured by frequent removals. Those who have not ordered Roses should do so at once, as these can be packed so as to be uninjured by frost ; besides, there is invariably a great demand for them early in the season. When received lay them in carefully by the roots where they can be covered with rough litter in the event of a severe frost being imminent. They may be planted during February. The preference should be given to dwarfs, as being the hardiest. No collection of Roses may be said to be complete that does not comprise such grand summer and autumn-flowering varieties as Maurice Bernardin, Marquise de Castellane, Boule de Neige, Cheshunt Hybrid, Marie Baumann, A. K. Williams, John Keynes, Charles Lefebvre, Alfred Colomb, Capitaine Christy, Countess of Oxford, Senateur Yaisse, Fisher Holmes, Duke of Edinburgh, John Hopper, La France, Madame Eugene Yerdier, Madame Gabriel Luizet, Miss Hassard, Mons. E. Y. Teas, General Jacque¬ minot, and Sultan of Zanzibar. Treatment of Bedding Plants. — These this season, notably Pelargoniums of all kinds, are with difficulty prevented from damping off. A long period of dull weather, such as we are now experiencing, sometimes proves more disastrous than very severe weather, as there is no possibility of keeping the plants suffi¬ ciently dry. To counteract this the lights should be removed during the prevalence of sunshine, and during dull rainy weather should be blocked up at the back, and fire heat where available turned on. The plants ought frequently to be examined, and all decaying leaves removed. Pelargoniums require no water at the roots unless they are wintered in a dry and rather warm house, and even in this case it is not advisable to encourage growth so early in the season. Verbenas, Heliotropes, Ageratums, and Lobelias ought not to become dust-dry at the roots, but Iresines, Coleuses, Alternantheras, Mesembryanthemums, and succulents generally should not be heavily watered, especially where wintered in a comparatively low temperature. Give air freely on all favourable occasions to Calceolarias, Violas, Gazanias, or any half- hardy kinds of bedding plants being wintered in cold frames. If severe frost be anticipated cover all frames with mats, pieces of carpet, canvas, or other available material, and dispose over these and around the sides a heavy covering of rough dry litter. FEEDING BEES. It will be well now to consider some of the means to be employed whereby success may be insured for the coming season. Next to having dry well-ventilated hives, a proper knowledge of the science of bee-feeding is most useful. It may appear to those about to commence bee-keeping that there cannot be much science in feeding bees, but at the outset we will say that the knowledge of when, how, and why we feed them, points out the high road to that success we wish to insure. Unlike other creatures bees are not to be fed simply because they require food, but at cer'ain times feeding, such as we shall recommend, must be carried on when an abundance of food may be in the hive ; while, again, that feeding performed at an untoward season would bring about the destruction of those we wished to keep alive. It will be readily seen, therefore, of what paramount importance a proper acquaintance with this subject must be to the man about to keep bees. We may divide our subject into four heads— autumn feeding, spring feeding, feeding of swarms, and obligatory feeding either in summer or winter. We commence with autumn feeding, because it is then that the stock is built up which is to do the principal work of the succeeding summer. Very few of the bees then fed will, indeed, live to help to fill the supers for the summer shows, but they are to be the nurses and feeders of the teeming multitudes of young bees upon whom the summer’s burden will be cast. It cannot be too often impressed upon the readers of this Journal that the stocks which are strong in late autumn, strong in their numbers of young bees, are those which carry our hopes of profit in the ensuing year. How eften the heaviest stock in autumn proves the weakest in the following May. The combs filled with honey during a glut which suddenly fails, 16 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 4, 18SS. offer no receptacles into which the queen can deposit, eggs, and by the time cells are emptied to satisfy hungry bees the impulse to lay eggs ceases, and the colony clusters to pass the winter with only old half- worn-out members. What is the result in the spring ? The first few warm days tempt the bees to forage for pollen and honey; the queen, seeing a little food coming in, begins to lay ; brood, soon requires to be kept warm, and is reared ; young bees begin to appear and require food. But by this time the ever- changing and treacherous spring weather has dealt death to the greater part of the enfeebled survivors of the winter. A sudden spell of bitter east winds with frost compels the few left to cluster closer together; perhaps brood has to he deserted and is chilled to death ; the queen is disheartened and ceases to attempt the increase of her family ; and if with the return of fine weather that hive pulls through at all, it is a weak profitless hive during the rest of the seas >n. Yet by judicious feeding in autumn this evil might have been averted. The food for autumn feeding should he made with less water than that given in the spring. A pint of water to 3 lbs. of best lump sugar, to which half a wineglass of vinegar is added just after removing it from the fire after gently boiling for ten minutes, at the same time stirring in a little salt, will make food of the proper consistency. As soon as the harvest from natural sources fails the hive should be examined, the space contracted to six or eight combs to secure warmth during the lengthening nights, all surplus honey extracted, or surplus combs removed and empty combs put into the centre of the hive, and then food given gently but continuously. Should the weather continue fine during the end of August and through September some little honey will still be brought in, and then if the syrup be given to the bees during evening it will cause what we aim at — the continual increase of the colony. Early in October bees cease to feed, the queen gradually ceases to lay. In three weeks most of the young bees are hatched out, and the col my goes into winter quarters, powerful not only in numbers but with unused energy stored up in a multitude of young bees, which will be proof against the trying ordeal of fickle spring weather, and, hearing the wear and tear of nursery cares, carry our stock safely on to the swarming season, either to give us new colonies or well-filled supers. Spring feeding now claims our attention, and this is supple¬ mentary to autumn feeding. A very weak stock may sometimes — that is, when weather and honey supplies work with us — be fed up into a strong healthy stock by the time the bulk of the honey harvest is fit to gather. But the odds are against our success. On the other hand, where autumn feeding has been properly carried out, spring feeding rapidly tells on the well-peopled stock. The food should be thinner than that given during autumn. Our aim then was to have as little superfluous moisture as possible, to be driven out of the hive before winter ; now the greater amount of water is required and used by the hees as the rapidly developing hrood require it. Half a pint to each pound of sugar, and made into syrup as before, should now be given. Should the store of food be running short in the hive a'ter the winter consumption we feed a few pounds rjpidly at first, and then gently as in the autumn. The amount given is regulated by feeding through a greater or less number of holes in the zinc, and it can be fed either at the side or on the top as shown in the figures and description of our hives, pages 414 and 486 last volume. This continuous gentle feeding has the same effect on the queen as in the autumn — she lays eggs, first a few, and ever increasing in numbers as newly hatched bees swell the nursing powers of the hive. This tendency to deposit more and more eggs is further excited by what is termed “ spreading the brood.” After the first batch of eggs has begun to hatch out and the colony is gaining power we insert either sheets of foundation or empty comb between frames of brood. Constantly enlarging the broud nest as the in¬ creasing numbers warrant us in so doing, we in time have brood from end to end of the hive, and the happy state of affairs which we above pointed out is attained by the time Nature puts on her flowery garb and the bee-master puts on his supers. But the greatest care must he taken never to neglect to continue feeding, once having begun. When we have so stimulated a stock that it has become perhaps full to overflowing with bees and brood, the result might be most disastrous should the supply of food be suddenly and permanently stopped. The greater the strength of the colony the greater the demand on its stores of honey; and a hive in the powerful condition we picture would in a very short time be on the verge of starvation. It is therefore necessary that we know what amount of food is stored, and should the quantity ho growing small a certain amount should be rapidly supplied. We have done this without increasing the fixed daily allowance from the feeder, by pouring a pound or two of syrup into empty combs on the outer sides of the brood nest. The frame of comb laid flat can be easily filled with syrup by letting the latter fall in a thin stream from a lipped jug held some distance above the comb, and this can be at once hung in its position in the hives. The bees will place the food just where they require it. We have now only to notice feeding ot swarms, and what we have called obligatory feeding, which we hope to do in another letter. — P. H. P. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Charles Sharpe & Co., Sleaford, Lincolnshire. — Seed List for 1883 ( Illustrated ). Robert Yeitch & Son, 54, High Street, Exeter. — Catalogue of Vege¬ table and Flower Seeds. Ralph Crossling, Penarth Nurseries, South Wales. — List of Vege¬ table and Flower Seeds. Edward Webb & Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge. — Spring Catalogue for 1883 (with coloured illustrations). Kent & Brydon, Darlington. — Seed Guide for 1883 ( Illustrated ). Auguste Van Geert, Ghent, Belgium. — List of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. Dickson, Brown, & Tait, Manchester. — Spring Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. George Bunyard & Co., Maidstone. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. » John Laing & Co., Forest Hill. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. *** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return reiected communications. Carnations for Beds {Ayrshire). — We have notes in hand on growing Carnations in beds, with a selection of varieties most suitable for that method of culture, and these will be published in an early issue of the Journal. Jasminum gracillimum (T. Griffiths). — This valuable plant was intro¬ duced by Messrs. James Yeitch & Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery, King’s Road, Chelsea, and if you write to this firm you can obtain the particulars you require , Capparis spinosa— The Caper Plant {II. M.).— Capparis spinosa, from which the capers of commerce are obtained, grows abundantly in the south of Europe, along the shores and on the islands of the Mediterranean, and in Syria. It is generally found wild on walls and rocks ; it is met with on the walls of Rome, Sienna, and Florence, and is extensively cultivated in the south of Europe, particularly between Marseilles and Toulon, and in many pares of Italy ; but it is from Sicily that the greatest supply is brought. The flower buds form the capers so much used as a pickle and a sauce, but in some parts the fruit is also employed. In the early part of summer the plant begins to flower, and the flowers continue to appear successively till the beginning of winter. The young flower buds are picked every morning, and as they are gathered they are put into vinegar and salt ; and this operation continues for six months, as long as the plants are in a flowering state. When the season closes, the buds are sorted according to their size and colour, the smallest aud greenest being the best ; these are again put into vinegar, and then packed up for sale and exportation. Capers are stimulant, antiscorbutic, and are much employed as a condiment, but the medicinal virtues of the plant reside in the root, which is slightly bitter, somewhat acrid and sour, and is diuretic. The Caper Spurge {Idem). — Euphorbia lathyris is a native of several parts of Britain, and is called Caper Spurge, from its being used as capers ; in America it is called Mole Plant, because moles are supposed to avoid the ground where it grows. Like other Euphorbias, its milky juice is of an acrid nature ; its seeds yield an abundance of fine clear oil, called oil of Euphorbia. This is obtained by expression, or by the aid of alcohol or ether, and is colourless, inodorous, and almost insipid ; it rapidly becomes rancid, and acquires a dangerous acrimony. The oil is a powerful purge, operating with much activity, in doses of five drops, and is said to be less acrid and irritating than Croton oil. It is necessary that it be always recently extracted, as it speedily becomes rancid, and has a disagreeable action. The seeds themselves, to the number of twelve or fifteen, are used by the country people in France as a purgative. The root of the plant is equally purgative, aud particularly emetic. Fir Tree Oil Injurious {Victim). — You have either exceeded the quantity advised, or the water was not suitable. We have seen the insecticide used with the best results — killing all insects and not injuring plants in the least, and we have also seen plants much damaged, even when the oil was used by a most careful man, and strictly in accordance with the instructions of the vendors as to the quantity advised. The difference wc attribute solely to the water that was employed in mixing, and not to the oil, which we believe is of uniform quality Rain water should be used ; if that is not at hand (and there has been no particular scarcity of late) dissolve a lump of soda the size of a walnut in a January 4, 1883 . ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. gallon of such water as you have before adding the oil, and if that does not answer try another insecticide, there are plenty in the market. Violets in Frames ( Cot'age ). — The method of culture in preparing Violets for flowering in frames in the winter is practically the same as that adopted in growing Strawberries, only rooted runners of Violets can be had in April, while Strawberries cannot be layered before June. In soil prepared as if preparing for Strawberries, and in an open position, plant rooted runners or offsets of Violets during showery weather in April. Compact growers, such as Devoniensis, a very useful single, and Marie Louise, a valuable double variety, may be inserted a foot apart in rows 18 inches asunder; but such strong growers and fine varieties as Victoria Regina and Prince Consort need more space, and the plants should be 18 inches apart in rows 2 feet asunder. Those named are excellent varieties, and if Argenteaeflora is added you may have abundance of flowers in different colours from September onwards throughout the winter, provided you can maintain a night temperature in the frames of 40° to 45°, not otherwise, as Violets must have a certain amount of heat for insuring a continuous supply of flowers. Plants well attended to during the summer will be in fine condition for planting in frames in September or early October. For further particulars read tbe_ articles on page 224, September 7th, 1882, and page 380, October 26 th, 1*82, which, if you do not happen to have preserved them, can be had from the publisher at the ordinary price, 3J'f. each. Violets can be had in abundance in winter by taking stout runners and dibbing them an inch or two apart in boxes of good soil — loam and leaf mould — as if inserting cuttings, keeping them con¬ stantly moist, and placing the boxes in a light position in a warm greenhouse. Boxes thus filled at the present time and tre ited as directed will shortly afford quantities of flowers, and young plants of the best character will be provided for future plantations. Pines for Fruiting (Irish Rector). — We think you have succeeded fairly well in your first attempt at Pine-growing. If the plant you describe as having a stem as thick as your wrist, has crowded the pot with roots, and the leaves are sturdy and stout in texture, there is a possibility of its fruiting next summer if it is afforded a decided rest now. The disposition of Pines to throw up is indi¬ cated by a more than ordinary number of rather small sharp-pointed leaves forming in the centre, and having a tendency to spread outwards. Plants that produce few, large, and upright leaves are not likely to fruit for some time. Give no more water for a month or more, and follow the instructions in the work you possess as to temperatures and general management. "We should not start such plants as yours before February, and not then unless you can insure a bottom heat of 85° and a minimum temperature in the house of 65° to 70°. Until then keep them dry in a temperature of 60°, falling to 55° on cold nights, so as to afford them a complete and decided rest. This is the only method you can adopt for insuring your object. Syringing Fruit Trees (Old Subscriber). — You cannot err by carrying out your project, as, although cleansing the trees now will not prevent the attacks of aphides in spring, you may expect they will be diminished in numbers, Soft soap dissolved at the rate of 2 or 3 ozs. to a gallon of water, adding also a small lump of soda, then a fluid ounce of petroleum to each gallon of the soapy water, would be a good and safe dressing to the trees now, and you may apply it at a temperature of 140° without any fear of injuring them when their buds are dormant. The orchard-house trees may be treated in the same way, but it will be advisable to prevent any great quantity of the liquid draining into the pots or saturating the soil containing the roots. Mr. W. Litchfield recommended on page 596 last week what we believe will prove an excellent dressing for destroying insects on trees. He describes the process as follows : — “ First slake a peck of lime with water to the consistence of cream, and whilst still hot add one pint of the brown oil of tar. This when mixed forms a tar soap or emulsion which annihilates the American bug. Colour with soot if you like.” This will no doubt form a good dressing for both trees and walls that are infested with insects, and we shall be glad if those of our correspondents who may try it will eventually state the results. Pears not Thriving (Trike). — The reason your cordon Pears do not succeed is not far to seek, as you say you made your border on the top of the grass. We presume by that you did not break the grass surface up at all, and hence adopted very bad practice. Your only remedy will be to take up the trees and well trench the border 2 feet deep, but if the subsoil is not good do not bring it to the surface, but well stir it up with a fork. Mix your newly- made border with it, adding a little wrell-decayed manure and wood ashes, and when replanting the trees place some good loam around the roots. Mulch in the summer to keep the roots cool and moist. Budding Fruit Trees (Idem). — Plums and Cherries are budded in July, or when the bark runs freely. Select a smooth place on the stock where you wish to insert the bud ; tie it in with soft matting, taking care that the eye of the bud fits closely and firmly to the stock. Do not head the stock down at the time of budding, nor until the following spring, or the growth will start pre¬ maturely, whereas the buds should remain dormant. The stock should be cut down to within about 4 inches of the bud, and as the young growths advance tie them securely to supports, or they may get blown or broken off. Fertilisation of Arums and Anthuriums (Norman).— Though both these genera are included in the family Aroidese there is considerable difference in their floral structure. In the Arums the flowers are unisexual— that is, male or female only, and are produced on the lower portion of a fleshy spike termed a spadix, the upper portion being without flowers and club-shaped. The flowers are in rings, the highest being the males, which consist of anthers only without filaments or envelope of any kind. Below these are a number of thread-like projections, which are really abortive flowers, and below these at the bottom of the spadix are the female flowers, simply ovaries without perianth or appendages of any kind. The spadix is wholly, or partly, surrounded by a coloured leaf-like expansion termed the spathe. In the Anthuriums the flowers are perfect— that is, contain both stamens and pistil enveloped by a perianth, and, as in the Arums, are closely packed on a cylindrical spadix. To insure fertilisation in the case of the Arums, it is obvious that pollen must be conveyed from the stamens at the upper part of the spadix to the ovaries at the base, but this is unnecessary with the Anthuriums, as when the anthers burst the pollen can be readily distri¬ buted, and they are indeed, to a great extent, self-fertilising. Climbing Plants for a Porch (F. C.). — No permanent climber grows with the rapidity of an annual. Could not you continue to have boxes for annuals alongside the others for a time ? Ivy would answer well in boxes, and its growth is much accelerated by making the soil very rich with manure. The Silver Ivy (Hedera elegantissima) is very handsome, of free yet neat growth, and would make a bright chaste clothing for your porch. We have one planted ten years ago that is now 20 feet high. If you prefer green leaves, then take the Irish Ivy (H. canariensis), or H. Raegneriana with its large handsome heart-shaped foliage. If your porch is not exposed to cold cutting winds, Escallonia macrantha is preferable to Ivy. It is an evergreen, has handsome glossy green foliage, grows fast in rich soil, and has lovely deep pink flowers both in spring and autumn. A Clematis might be planted with it, preferably C. Jackmannii, always valued for its deep purple flowers, and doubly valuable for you because it would blossom when the Escallonia had not much bloom. Various (Idem). — If the temperature of your house is much higher than that in which the plant was grown in the nursery, that would account for the flower buds falling. A minimum night temperature of 55° is suitable for Abutilons, with the usual increase during the day. You could only expect quite a small plant or “ rooted cutting ” for the price you name. We presume you removed the flower. The treatment you describe is correct, and with care the plant may be expected to grow. Cuttings of the healthy shoots of Zonal Pelargoniums inserted now singly in very small pots of sandy soil placed on a shelf in your pinery, and watered judiciously, will emit roots, and in due time make healthy plants. When water is given apply it in sufficient quantity to pass quite through the soil. Surface sprinklings are dangerous to cuttings of all kinds. Water must only be given when the soil is so dry as to crumble when pressed with the finger. The older plants keep dry, giving them little or no water for a month, and cut them down early in March ; then, after they have pushed fresh growth half an inch long, shake them out and place in smaller pots, using fresh, loamy, and gritty soil. Inarching Vines (G. P., Hants). — If the Vines to which you refer are healthy and vigorous, you would in all probability produce fruiting canes more quickly by inarching than by planting the young Vines ; but if the Vines are exhausted and make but little growth it would be preferable to plant out the Muscats, but it is little use doing so in an old border, and stations of fresh soil should be provided for them. The condition of a Vine is of far greater im¬ portance as a stock than its variety. The Canon Hall Muscat is not an easy Grape to grow, and skilled attention is needed to insure the berries setting and swelling. We should not have two Vines of this variety in a small house, but we presume you have no choice in this matter. Yellow Chrysanthemums (IF. G.). — Your request is not so clear as is desirable. No one can tell whether you want one or a number of varieties, or whether you want incurved or Japanese flowers, or both. Of the bright yellow incurved varieties none is better for decorative purposes than Mrs. Dixon ; of Japanese Fulton is one of the brightest and best ; and the reflexed Chevalier Domage is valuable for the conservatory. No Chrysanthemums are naturally dwarf, but those we have named may be rendered compact by the cultivator by frequently stopping the shoots and training them neatly. Cultural notes have recently appeared in our columns, and you will find others in the present issue, while still others are awaiting publication. If after these have appeared you need further information we will readily give it, but we must ask you to state your wants more fully and clearly. Renovating Old Pear Trees (A Notts Vicar). — The method of removing the spurs and inducing fresh growths that we have previously recommended, but which you cannot remember, is probably the following : — The fact that fruit is produced only on the extremities of the branches of the trees on walls suggests a remedy. With a saw remove the fruitless -spurs close to the mam branches, paring the “ cuts” smoothly with a sharp knife. If the branches are covered with moss it will be well to dress them with freshly slaked lime, the colour of which can be toned down ■with soot if required. This will cleanse the bark. In the spring fresh growth will be produced in clusters all along the stems ; this must be thinned out by rubbing off a great number of the shoots — not cutting them, eventually retaining only- those that are short-jointed and placed 2 or 3 feet apart. These should be tied down to the main stems, and if they are not shortened they will in due time produce fruit spurs precisely in the manner of the extremities of the branches. The exact distance for leaving these young growths can only be determined by their character. If the growths are very luxuriant they may be bent and trained backwards along the main branches — that is, with their points directed to the trunk of the tree, but if only of moderate strength this is not necessary. By adopting this practice there will be no fruit for two years ; but after that time fruit will in all probability be produced freely over the entire surface of the wall, and with judicious pruning the trees will continue fruitful for a considerable time. We have proved the value of this method of rendering old Pears fruitful, but it is only' applicable to trees that are healthy aud free from gum and canker. The Myrtle-leaved Orange (D. C.). — The fruits of this Orange are small, with an acid and bitter pulp, and the plant is grown chiefly for orna¬ mental purposes, but probably the rind might be candied as yon suggest, though we should advise a trial on a small scale first. By some it is considered a variety of the common Seville Orange type, aud is named Citrus vulgaris, var. myrtifolia, but others describe it as a variety of C. Aurantium, and it has been considered as a distinct species. A good figure of it is given in the “ Botanical Register,” plate 346, 1819, under the name of C. Aurantium myrtifolia ; and it is mentioned that Sir Joseph Banks then had some fine specimens at Spring Grove, Isleworth, his method of increasing it being to graft six scions of the variety upon a stock of the common Orange. By this means handsome examples were obtained, which flowered and fruited extremely well. The plant when grown upon its own roots is much dwarfer than other Oranges, never exceeding the dimensions of a small shrub. COYENT GARDEN MARKET.— JANUARY 3RD. Our market has been very dull since Christmas, but with slack supply prices have been rather better. VEGETABLES. 8. d. 8. d. 8. dozen 2 0 to 4 0 1 Asparagus . bundle 0 0 0 0 Mushrooms Beans, Kidney .... 100 1 0 0 0 Mustard tfe Cress .. punnet 0 dozen 1 0 2 0 Onions . ft Broccoli . bundle 0 9 i 6 Parsley . doz. bunches 3 Brussels Sprouts. . i sieve 1 6 2 0 Parsnips .... i dozen 0 6 1 0 Pea 9 . 0 100 1 6 2 0 6 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Kidney.... 6 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 Radishes.... doz. bunches 1 1 6 2 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Salsafy . 1 Cucumbers . each 0 < i 0 Scorzo’nera 1 1 0 2 0 1 Fennel . bunch 0 3 0 0 Shallots .. .. o Garlic . lb. 0 6 0 0 Spinach .... 3 Herbs . bunch o 2 0 0 Tomatoes .. . lb. 0 Leeks . bunih 0 8 0 4 Turnips .... 0 d. s. d Otol 6 0 16 2 0 3 3 2 G 0 4 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 7 0 0 8 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 0 0 6 0 8 9 2 3 3 0 0 0 0 0 8 10 2 0 3 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 18 [ January 4, 1883. 8. Apples . 4 sieve 2 „ . per barrel 20 Apricots . doz. 0 Cherries . 4 sieve o Chestnuts . bushel 10 Currants, Blach. . 4 sieve 0 „ Red.... j sieve 0 Fitfs . dozen 0 Filberts . tb. 0 Cobs . 100 ft. 50 Gooseberries .... 4 sieve 0 FBUIT, d. s. d. 0to7 0 0 40 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 6 10 0 0 0 0 55 0 0 0 0 Grapes . Lemons . . Melons . Nectarines . Oranges . Peaches . Pears, kitchen . dessert . Pine Apples, English Raspberries .... Strawberries .. s. d. s. d. ft. 2 0 to 5 0 case 10 o 20 o each 0 0 0 0 dozen 00 00 100 6 0 10 0 dozen 00 00 dozen 10 2 0 dozen 10 20 ft. 2 0 ft. 0 0 lb. 0 0 3 0 0 0 0 0 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. A RETROSPECT OF THE HOME FARM, 1882. Again we give a retrospective view of the circumstances which have attended the home farmer in his endeavours to successfully carry out his practical business. In our former retrospects we have always assumed that his agricultural year or season com¬ mences on the first day of October, our opening observations will therefore begin with October, 1881. We cannot remember a more favourable season for Wheat-sowing on all soils, and likewise the seed time for Rye, Trifolium, Vetches, Winter Beans in the pro¬ verbially fickle climate of the British Isles. We can recollect years when the autumn season had been quite as forward, but never one more healthy, during which nearly all kinds of farm work had been carried on with so little interruption either in the cultivation of the land or in another important point, that of the management and health of the flocks and herds generally through¬ out the kingdom. The progress on the home farm at the com¬ mencement of the year was very promising, for all the Wheat and autumn-sown catch crops were remarkably healthy, at the same time the health of the stock was much better than it had been for several previous years. The early lambing Dorset and Somerset ewes had passed through a favourable lambing season, and a large number of healthy lambs had been saved. Dairy cows had never passed through a better autumn season, for the grass continued fresh and growing on all favourable situations, and the milking period was continued longer than usual, whilst the store cattle and young stock were never known to have been in finer condition than at the close of the year. This is a favourable picture of the stock and prospects of the home farm. A few words must, however, be said relative to the probability of the home farmer having more land on his hands on various estates than he has ever had before, and also that more intelligent, industrious, and persevering men will be required in the imme¬ diate future to manage farms which through the general agricul¬ tural depression have been thrown upon the hands of proprietors. In consequence of what we term the great revolution in agricul¬ tural affairs, both in regard to the interests of proprietors of land as well as occupiers, it is quite clear that home farmers as well as occupiers generally will have to make and undertake to carry out a new departure — a change of cropping and system of cultivation. In the home farm department of this Journal we have kept steadily in view during the past five years the actual necessity of treating most of our subjects introduced during that period with the object of enabling the home farmer to combat with success the great and increasing difficulties surrounding his position. In doing this we have brought the experience of a long life to bear upon the various subjects ; and although many of them some years ago were not appreciated by some farmers, yet as they were based upon our own practice we with confidence have recom¬ mended them for adoption as the means of proceeding under what we term a new departure, so indispensable for application in the present and approaching difficulties of the future. We must ask him to refer more particularly to the articles explaining the altera¬ tions in cropping and cultivation of both light and strong soils as compared with the four-course rotation and other systems so much in fashion in times gone by. We must also call his attention to the subject of continuous corn-growing upon fertile and vale soils, as well as vegetable cropping of lands near the towns and within reach of the metropolis by railway. At the same time, it should be remembered that manuring by green crops ploughed under on certain outlying soils has been found to have the double effect of manuringand fallowing at one and the same operation, and at a less cost in some cases than the naked fallow. In fact, it will be found that under a system of continuous cropping it proves to be a continuous fallowing as well as cropping. In our case we never made a long fallow for more than twenty years, for when couch and weeds are forked out at every opportunity it diminishes the cost of either steam power or animal labour in the cultivation. Again, with reference to the breeding and feeding of stock, our articles upon the subject show that animals do not pay for fatten¬ ing under ordinary circumstances, unless the breeding is con¬ nected with it on the same farm. Frequently, too, it does not even then pay unless the animals, whether they are of sheep or cattle, are maintained in improving condition from their birth to their death by slaughter, being kept and fed so that the animals may never lose their calves or lamb’s flesh, and be fed under a liberal system of proper food, upon the principle and practice of early maturity. To prove this it is only necessary to examine the weight for age of the stock at all the recent cattle shows — those of London, Birmingham, and other large towns, and it will be found that lambs in the sheep classes are the heaviest at their age ; and it is just the same with bullocks. Let us consider how these facts affect the consumers of this country. It is collected from the statistics in the total of Great Britain, and shows a decrease of cattle between the years 1874 and 1882, amounts 318,491 of all ages ; and also exhibits the decrease in sheep of all ages for the period from 1874 to 1881 to have reached the marvellous number of 5,732,888 ; and the decrease in swine is proved to be 374,742 of all ages for the same period. Let us now consider how this deficiency can be made up, for it is evident that our foreign importations, great as they have been, are likely to fall off rather than otherwise, because the population abroad over the areas of production continues to increase to an enormous extent. This diminution of live stock has been going on for years, but to a very large extent the quantity of meat has been made up under the system of early maturity to which we have referred, and will in the future be the means of equalising demand and supply. With reference to the price of corn, so long as we have foreign imports to contend with the price must be low, and our only refuge to which we can resort is in obtaining large and abundant crops, but this has unfortunately for seven years been denied us as a rule, through the influence of adverse seasons. To take another rule, we find that crops of corn, but especially Wheat, are still the rent-paying crops upon arable farms, and so we believe they are likely to be for many years to come, the only exceptions being the produce of certain districts where local requirements are of a special kind, such as fruit and vegetables, for it is evident that we keep stock for the purpose of manuring the land to enable it to carry full crops of rent-paying com¬ modities. Yet it is a common thing to hear the unpractical portion of writers upon the subject exclaim, “ Oh ! corn does not pay for growing, you should therefore fall back upon stock.” This is an extreme fallacy, for unless upon fertile pastures the feeding of cattle or sheep for slaughter, or the results of dairy farming, it cannot be made to answer the purpose other than as above stated, the manuring of land to secure full crops of corn. It is true that the statistical returns show that the growth of Wheat has decreased during the past eight years by 626,300 acres, and Barley also during the same period by 32,937 acres. However, this indicates chiefly the inability of the landed proprietors, as well as tenants, to find capital sufficient for its cultivation, and consequently we find an increase of land left in pasture or run to waste amounting to 1,643,988 acres, for we know various properties now only a sheep walk which were formerly within our knowledge arable farms cultivated successfully. We must now, however, consider the nature of the season after entering on the year 1882. The growing Wheat presented a beautiful and luxuriant appearance, with a regular plant, very forward, and of a deep green colour, which usually promises abundance. The work of the farm, too, was forward, it having January 4, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 19 been conducted without any interruption, so that all the Lent corn, Barley, and Oats, as well as Beans and Peas, were sown early, with as fine a tilth as could be desired. All the field grasses, Clover, and Sainfoin were strong and of luxuriant growth as well as regular in plant. The pastures likewise carried a most promising appearance, the only exception being a rather irregular growth in the water meadows owing to a short supply of flood water in the previous winter. This altogether beautiful prospect induced us to think that although Dame Nature had in previous years got into our debt we may expect to be paid in the course of the seasons. The flocks of sheep both on the hill and vale farms were generally healthy, and the ewe flocks had produced a large number of iambs of nearly all varieties. Cattle, too, were reported free from disease in nearly every district. This prospect of early abundance had the effect of raising high hopes in the farmers’ breast, that we had entered upon a cycle of seasons which would requite them for their many losses by flood and field. It was, however, not destined for the present year to prove one of the cycle, for on the 29th of April a terrible storm prevailed throughout the kingdom with more or less severity, and it was followed by cold easterly winds, which arrested in their growth all kinds of vegetation, and destroying at one blow all our anticipations in which we had indulged of an early and abundant harvest. Nevertheless, although the character of the weather during the summer proved cold and stormy and un¬ favourable for cereal crops, yet the hay crops were bulky in quantity ; the Bean and Pea crops, too, were good in the midland and western counties, and the season may also be called one particularly favourable for the grazing of cattle. Still, though the hay crops were good all round, yet the difficulty of securing it in good condition was very discouraging. It was, however, a season well suited to test the experiments of securing hay in bad weather by the use of the exhaustion of heat from the ricks after being built with the various kinds of fans devised for the purpose, and it is unfortunate that many failures have occurred by the hay ricks thus treated proving in most cases of little value. It is, however, with regard to both hay and corn, especially in the northern counties and Scotland, that we yet trust the system may ultimately be made available. We cannot but consider the state¬ ments made by Messrs. Neilson & Knowles, the originators of the system, are truthful, and as it proved successful with them for a series of years there is yet hope that farmers may eventually master the details. The Royal Agricultural Society made a sad blunder in the experiments carried out at the Reading meeting, and is likely to discourage many persons ; we have, however, strong hope that eventually it may be brought into use so as to enable the farmers to combat the climate. Mr. Gibbs’ steam hay- drier will be sure to answer the purpose of drying both sorts of hay, either of meadow or field growth, but it is better for the former than the latter, as we fear much leaf of the field hay will be lost in the process ; this, together with the cost of the machinery, being £350, will serve to exclude its use in many instances. We must now refer to the root crops of the kingdom. Mangold and Potatoes are both under the average by reason of the low temperature which prevailed ; but Swedes, Turnips, Cabbage, and Carrots are fine crops, and the late crops of grass most abundant ; this tended to raise the value of sheep, together with diminished numbers, to a price higher than we can ever recollect in any previous year. The same may be said with cattle, which have made high prices. Serious floods have occurred in various counties which have proved disastrous in grazing districts. To conclude our retrospect we give a general statement of the results of the harvest. We estimate the Wheat crop as an average one of the last seven years, but under the average of twenty years, with a large acreage grown owing to the favourable seed time, and the grain of good quality where well harvested. Barley like Wheat is about an average of the last seven years, but of poor quality and badly harvested. Oats are one of the finest crops ever grown in England, having been, however, somewhat injured by the difficult harvest. We cannot omit the notice of full crops of straw generally, which is important both for fodder and sale, especially the latter, as it has lately made a higher value than it has ever done before. MAXIMUM WEIGHT FOR AGE OF CATTLE AND SHEEP. ( Continued from page 603, last vol.) As space could not be found last week for the conclusion of our remarks we now give the weight for age of sheep and lambs, some of which were exhibited at Bingley Hall Show and some at the Islington Hall Show. The heaviest pen of three Lincoln wether sheep alive, weight of 9 cwt. 0 qrs. 22 lbs., is recorded. The pen of Coltswold wethers, shown by Mr. Thomas of Cardiff, weighe<^ 8 cwt. 4 Ib3. The Leicesters, formerly called the premier breed England, are at present held by few, especially of the pure Dishley stock descended in a direct line. The weight of the heaviest pen of wethers was only 6 cwt. 3 qrs. 14 lbs. The South Downs, although maintaining their admirable position for quality, are in weight much less than some others ; but we cannot refrain from giving them a place here, as the wethers shown by the Duke of Richmond weighed 6 cwt. 9 lbs., and at weight for age nearly approached the Leicesters, and we notice them, readily admitting nothing in the mutton classes can exceed them for quality. We will now refer to the Oxford Downs (the pen of wethers weighed 8 cwt. 8 lbs.) shown by Mr. Brassey. The Shropshire class exhi¬ bited a pen of wethers, the best weighing only 7 cwt. 1 qr. 6 lbs., as shown by Mr. Loder. We must now refer to what is fre¬ quently called the coming sheep — viz., the Hants and Wilts Down sheep. But although splendid and heavy weight for age as they show, exceeding all others for early maturity, yet they can never displace the long-woolled breeds in their native strongholds (the grazing pastures of the midland and northern counties), for this simple reason — that they cannot be trusted to graze in company with bullocks as the long-wools do because of their roaming habits, for they will not eat and lie down side by side with horned cattle as the long-wools will always do. The heaviest pen of wethers was shown by Mr. Morrison, who, it seems, cannot yet be beaten in wether sheep, weighed 8 cwt. 2 qrs. 24 lbs. As in the cattle classes we made especial mention of the weights for age of the youngest animals, so we must give special attention to the weights of lambs in the sheep classes. At Bingley Hall Show the pen of three Hampshire Down lambs, exhibited by Mr. Morrison of Tis- bury, Wilts, weighed at about ten months old 7 cwt. 3 qrs. 1 lb., live weight. At the Islington Hall Show a pen of three lambs of the same breed, exhibited by Mr. Wm. Parsons of West Stratton, Hants, at the same age weighed 6 cwt., live weights. Either of these pens of lambs exceed in weight any lambs of the long-woolled breeds and all others, and this is very important for practical men to consider ; but at the same time it must be remembered that these lambs were probably housed and fed under cover during their whole lives, and were also selected from large flocks, and as the per-centage of exceptional animals may be reckoned at 3 per cent, every lamb shown was an exceptional animal, for even amongst the three exceptionals there will always be one better than the others. It is, therefore, not too much to say that several breeders of Hants Downs may have done likewise, especially Mr. George Judd of Barton Stacey, Hants, who took the prize for the best hundred lambs at Winchester Show Fair in October last, which lambs averaged over 13 stone at about eight months old, all fed in the open field. We mention this to show the home farmer the actual difference between open field feeding with a whole flock and house feeding with a few select exceptional animals. The result of this selection and house-feeding must at any rate meet with the approval of the butchers and consumers, especially at Christmas time. Such results as we have named cannot be realised by any of the long-woolled breeds, weight, age, and quality considered. CHALLENGE CUPS. There can be no question about the fact that the Birmingham challenge cup has given a great impetus to the Game fancy. In what other breed do we hear of £50 and £100 being given for a bird P Now and then, it is true, some famous Dark Brahma fetches an equally long price, but then it is a bird which is sure to win, and to win hack a considerable part of its purchase money, and with this object it is bought. Game fanciers, however, have of late given these sums for specimens of high pedigree with a view solely to breeding. Making allowances for the fact that they have long been peculiarly scientific and careful breeders, and that consequently it is to them of supreme importance to have stock birds as near perfection as possible, still the desire to win the great prize encourages this care, and the chance of winning it attracts new admirers to the breed. Is it desirable that any breed should have this special encouragement ? We have seen plausible reasons against the offer¬ ing of such cups. Some years ago cups of considerable value were subscribed for and given at the Crystal Palace for Dark Brahma cockerels and pullets. These were objected to, and not without reason as it seemed to us, because in the first place they were only the result of a transient furore of the year, and there was little 20 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. r January 4, im. attempt to make them an annual honour; and secondly because, being got up for the particular occasion and shortly before the show, there was a strong presumption as to who the winners would be. Indeed, it was rumoured that the probable and, as the event proved, the actual, winners really did subscribe a considerable amount of the cup’s value. To the case, however, of challenge cups sub¬ scribed for or presented long before the competition, and only to be hold for a year, or actually made over to their holders after a series of victories, these objections cannot possibly apply. The very con¬ ditions under which they are to be held and won provide for several years at least, and prevent all chance of a fancier who happens to have a good lot of chickens subscribing for hi3 own benefit. The only reasonable exception, as far as we can see, that can be taken to them is this — viz., that they make too much difference between the first and second-prize birds. It may be asked, Why put this great distinction between two birds which possibly differ so little as to cause a judge much perplexity, and which different judges would place in different order ? To this we say, the objection applies to all order of merit in awards. In every prize list it must of neces¬ sity frequently be the case that there is hardly appreciable supe¬ riority in some first-prize bird over the second, or second over the third. The objection applies far less to a cup given to the best of many first winners, because in several classes there is more chance of one bird standing out in front of all competitors than there is in a single class. However, putting aside these minor objections to any large and handsome prize, all of which seem to us easily answerable, we must look at the whole subject from a broader point of view. What is the object of all such competitions and all prizes ? Surely it is to encourage the breeding of poultry through the means of emulation, and whatever arrangement of awards promotes that emulation in the best and fairest way is the best arrangement. The reward¬ ing of this or that specimen with a first or a second prize is only a minor and accidental consideration. The general encourage¬ ment of intelligent and enterprising breeders is the main end, and the one which we should keep steadily in view when we draw up schedules and arrange prize lists. “ The proof of the pudding is in the eating,” and the fact that the offering of a challenge cup for one particular breed has had a marked effect in promoting excellence in that breed is in itself a strong argument in favour of the offering of challenge cups. The aim which we have in view in calling attention to this fact is to suggest to fanciers of other breeds whether they might not usefully combine to procure similar distinctions for their own varieties. Dorkings especially occur to us. There is not the array of them there once was at Birmingham when the prizes were pecuniarily far better worth winning than they now are. We are inclined to believe that this decline in numbers has some connection with reduction in the amount of prizes. Those who trade upon exhibition and sell their superfluous stock at enhanced prices on the strength of one or two Birmingham prizes are content with this, and do not think so much about the sums actually won. There are, however, many exhibitors of Dorkings, and there used to be more, who do not show anywhere else. Owners of parks and large estates peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of this variety allow their bailiffs and gamekeepers who roar them to show a few birds once a year for their trial, and Birmingham is generally the show selected. If, however, the returns are very small, and nothing but a first or" second prize can possibly recoup the cost of entry fee and travelling expenses, this permission is likely to be withdrawn, and as we well know often has so been. Still, the numbers have fallen off, and not the quality. It struck us this year at Birmingham that the Dorking winners were an extremely good lot, surpassing far in excellence as a whole those of any other show of the season. This is evidence that it is the place to which the great Dorking fanciers turn in spite of the fact that the prize list is hardly worthy of the place or the breed. We cannot but think that if some ener¬ getic admirer or band of admirers of this fine old breed would collect enough to purchase a handsome challenge cup great good would accrue. Those who possess fine stocks would be encouraged to keep them up, and those who do not exhibit their birds to do so at least this once a year. We think much of this last point, for we feel sure that there are owners of fine yards of Dorkings who seldom or never let their birds be publicly seen, and so do not give their neighbours a chance of buying of them. All that tends to discourage overshowing and professional showing of a few birds, but promotes the occasional exhibition of the flower of many yards, does good to the poultry fancy. Some more challenge cups would probably have this desired effect. — C. FORTHCOMING POULTRY SHOWS. It is to be hoped for the sake of exhibition poultry that the month of January may not be a cold one. A number of schedules of shows are lying before us, the greater part of them to be held during the early weeks of next year. For the 10th and 11th of January the second of the revived Taunton shows is fixed, of which we have before spoken Classification for poultry and Pigeons is good and exhaustive. There is a valuable prize — viz., a six-guinea cup, offered by Mr. Mar¬ shall, the President of the Society, for the winner of the largest number of prizes in the open Pigeon classes. This cup is awarded in a somewhat unusual way, for prizes do not, according to their degree, count so many points, but all are considered equal. ON the 11th, 12th, and 13th the Aberdeen Show is to be held. There are sixty classes for poultry, arranged alphabetically. Among them are eight for Dorkings, which are always strong classes in Scot¬ land. The entry fee is moderate — viz., 3s. 6 d. The Judge is Mr. A. Comyns, Hon. Sec. of the Poultry Club. The Pigeon classes are forty, twelve being for Pouters, the special fancy we presume of the locality. The Pigeon Judge is Mr. E. Beckwith. The entries close on Dec. 30th, and the Secretary is Mr. John Co we, 27, Dee Street, Aberdeen. The Show of the Dudley Columbarian Society is fixed for Jan. 12th, 13th. and 15th. The poultry section consists of six classes for Game and five for Game Bantams, and is to be judged by Messrs. Robert Ashley and W. H. Wheeler. Pigeons have twenty-seven classes. Among them are special classes for “Eastern Frilled,” and “ German Non-Frilled.” The Judge of Pigeons is Mr. J. W. Ludlow. There is an unusually good schedule for cage birds. The Hon. Sec. is Mr. G. H. Parke, Saracen’s Head Hotel, Dudley. We have the schedule of the first show of any importance, to be held at Buckingham on January 17th and 18th under Poultry Club rules. We fancy that its origin, like that of the Hemel Hempstead Show, is greatly owing to the energy of the Rev. H. R. Peel, whose name we observe upon the Committee. Poultry have forty-one classes, Pigeons eleven. The Judges are Mr. Teebay and Mr. Esqui- lant. The Hon. Secretary, Mr. G. F. Marsh, Buckingham. On the 24th and 25th the sixth Yeovil Show is to .be held. It has certainly become a leading Exhibition, and the classification is extended. It is one of the few shows of the season at which fanciers of White Game and Silkies will find classes for their favourites. Game Bantams, too, are favoured with eight classes for single birds, and other Bantams with five for pairs. In Pigeons Pouters have four classes, Carriers six, Dragoons six ; Tumblers, Owls, Turbits. and Antwerps, each four. But fanciers should send for the prize list to Mr. Robert Leach, Pall Hotel, Yeovil. — C. OUR LETTER BOX. Goat Farming (.-1 Subscriber ). — We shall most readily redeem our promise made on November 23rd, 1880, and propose to give an article on Goat farm¬ ing in an early issue. Book on Poultry Keeping (/. V.).— The price oE the book by Hr. Cook is 2s., post free 2s. 2d. Crop-bound Fowl ( Ernest Reirley). — You have adopted the right treat¬ ment, and if further efforts fail to afford relief the only alternative will be to open the crop and remove the obstruction ; but skill is requisite for performing the operation successfully, and we should persevere with the warm water, rubbing, and castor oil remedy for some time longer, and especially as it has proved beneficial. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40" N. ; Long. 0° 8' 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. DATE. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. Rain. 1882. December. Barome¬ ter at 32<* and Sea Level Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. | Temp, of Soil at 1 foot. Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Inches. deg. deg. deg. deg deg. deg. deg. In. Sun. 24 29.832 33.5 32.9 N.W. 38.8 40.2 30.4 56.1 27.2 0.071 Mon. 25 29.629 44.0 44.6 N.W. 87.8 52 5 31.8 52.7 27.8 0.524 Tues. 26 29.370 50.1 50.1 N.W. 40.8 49.8 43.8 61.5 43.1 0.205 Wed . 27 29.555 54.4 52.0 W. 480 57.2 48 5 57.8 45.3 0.066 Thurs. 28 29.736 54.5 51.6 W. 15.0 5.5.4 52.8 57.5 50.2 0.012 Friday 29 29.606 51.3 59.0 S.W. 45.7 54.3 48.8 55.3 47.2 0.196 Satur. 30 29.737 49.7 49.2 S.W. 46.1 53.8 46.9 54.2 45.3 0.443 29.638 48 3 47.2 42.5 51.9 43.3 56.4 40.9 1.517 REMARKS. 24th. — Fine, bright, and frosty. 25th. — Dull, wet, and mild. 26th. — Fine but damp morning ; rain afterwards. 27th. — Fine at first ; afternoon and evening wet ; very warm. 28th. — Squally during night ; fine, dry, mild day. 29th. — Squally ; slight misty rain at times. 30th. — Very wet morning ; fine, with clearer sky, in afternoon ; dull damp even¬ ing ; still very mild Although the first day of the week was frosty, the latter part was so remark¬ ably warn as to raise the mean for the week to nearly 48°, or 9° above the average. — G. J. SYMONS. January 11, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 21 llth Tn Roval Society at 4.30 P.M. 12th F Quekett Club at 8 P.M. [Covent Garden. 13th S Sale of Hardy Plants and Bulbs at Mr. Stevens’s Rooms, 14th SUN 2ND SUNDAY AFTER EPIPHANY. 15 th M 16 th TU 17th W Society of Arts at 8 P.M. GARDEN STRUCTURES. part which glass houses play in the success or non-success of gardeners has oi not, I think, ever been fairly taken into account in estimating results. Even the Grape Yine resents in many cases the accommodation afforded it, while there are very few gardens which have not one or more examples of plant structures totally unfitted for the purpose. Not only is this the case, hut such examples are to be found in instances where the glass has been lately erected, some¬ times by horticultural builders. Only lately a gentle¬ man applied for the plan of a structure in which plants would grow, and yet he had within the last two years erected a series of houses for plant culture. I had an opportunity of inspecting the range, which looked most promising from the further end of the garden, but the houses were not fitted for the work. I know it is said that gardeners are not to blame when such cases occur, but I know more than one gardener who has had the planning of houses. I have a very unsatisfactory house, but it is, however, the only structure out of several since erected that I would condemn ; the pitch of the roof being too steep, and practically unsuited for cultural purposes at any time except during spring and ant nmn. There is perhaps no plant, at least no popular plants, which so thoroughly show like or dislike to their quarters as many Orchids, and not only uncom¬ mon Orchids, but even the best known kinds. I know a good Orchid grower who fails with Dendrobium nobile and Cypripedium insigne, because there is not a struc¬ ture in his garden in which they will grow. A visitor lately expressed his surprise at the growths Odonto- glossum Roezlii was making here, as he could hardly induce it to keep alive. In this instance the plant in question grows like a weed with no more care than is bestowed on our commonest plants. The following is a very striking instance of the effect that a proper house has on the health of a plant. When I came here I found the Eucharises in a very poor condition, and ascertained that there had never been anything made of it. A fresh stock of healthy plants was obtained, and these went exactly like the others, and for several years experiments were tried, and always without success, until a new structure was erected for growing that and similar plants, and within six months the stock was in perfect health. We have a large and uninterrupted supply of Pelargoniums and Lily of the Y alley the whole winter through ; but a few years ago we could not have so managed with the kind of glass houses then at our command. Now with proper structure we find no difficulty. As to the kind of structure for particular purposes, I would greatly prefer large structures for the culture of fruit. A Peach house or a vinery as a lean-to should not be less than 18 feet wide. The cost of erection is considerably increased in the case of large houses as against small ones, but after they are up and paid for the large houses have all the advantages on their side. To the gardener who is pressed not only to produce fruit but also to produce flowers without the necessary accommodation, these large houses are especially valu¬ able ; so valuable are they that I know an instance where a crop of Chrysanthemums from two Peach houses nearly doubled the amount brought for the legitimate crop in the previous summer and autumn. When fruit houses are erected the requirements of the future with regard to flowers should most decidedly be taken into consideration. The furore for fine-foliage plants appears to be decreasing, and flowering plants becoming more prominent. By this change in fashion more work will be entailed on gardeners, and so much the easier will it be for those who can employ their glass structures for the production alike of fruit and flowers. We do not need plant houses very large. Gardens generally are not so much kept up for show as for utility. Large specimen plants are in most cases found to be costly, taking up room without any ade¬ quate return being given ; the most useful plant struc¬ tures therefore will be found to be low flat buildings about 12 or 18 feet in width, with a central path and two side beds or benches. At the same time where cut flowers are in great demand Camellias, Lapagerias, and Gardenias will require structures of larger dimensions in order to allow for planting out. Would-be investors in glass houses must be much perplexed by the several inventors and patentees in the field. Having to do most of such work with local and estate labour, I have had my share of thought in connection with this matter. Putty or no putty, Belgian versus English glass, deal against log, iron instead of wood, have all been under serious review. Several hundreds of miles have been travelled to see the best systems. However, up to the present we have not dispensed with putty, though it is employed only as a bed for the glass, as effective and more lasting than using it as a holder-down as well. Good Belgian glass we found to be as expensive as the same quality of English, and have employed the latter in preference. In the matter of wood that has been bought in the log, cut up and dried before using, we can insure getting wood of an older growth from the log. Between wood and iron a compromise has lately been made. The last erection here had all the main bearers of tee and angle-iron batted into the walls, and on these the wood framework was laid and fastened down here and there with screw nails. Such a structure is as nearly indestructible as can be expected. When the woodwork gives way (there are no heavy rafters required) the screw nails are easily taken out, the roof removed, the glass taken out of its bed, a new wooden framework laid on and screwed down, and the glass returned to its former position. Such an arrangement is also cheap, while thoroughly strong. We have not tried the iron rafters on large structures as yet, but hope to No. 133.— YOL! VI., Third Series. No. 1789.— Vol. LXIX., Old Series. . . . - . . . 22 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c January 11. is&s. do so on a range of new vineries. Two-inch tee and angle- iron is employed for these plant structures. For large vineries with a length of 20 to 24 feet of roof a stronger make will he required. — E. P. B. CULTURE OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. I wish to make a few remarks through your valuable Journal with regard to the production of good flowers of the Chrysan¬ themum. In reply to your correspondent “ J. D.” (page 556, last volume), one of the main features which will lead to success are never to let the plants receive a check. I much prefer striking the cuttings singly in small thumb pots not later than the end of February ; allow them to remain in these till the pots are full of roots, which will be about the third week in March ; shift them into pots two sizes larger, in which they can remain till the end of April, ihen transfer them into 6-inch pots, using moderately good soil. The plants remain in these until the middle of June, and the early-flower¬ ing varieties ten days or a fortnight later, when they are placed in 8 or 9-inch pots. The soil I employ is a strong loam, with about a sixth of leaf soil with a little bone dust or crushed oystershells. The Chrysanthemum requires very firm po ting, a little soot mixed with the soil being beneficial, and careful drainage is essen ial. I make a point of no. overfilling the pots, leaving from 1 to inch of space for top-dressing. This is given about the middle of September. A mixture of equal parts of fibry loam and well -decayed fowl or pigeon manure is placed about half an inch deep on the surface, leaving the other space till the middle of October, when the same mixture is employed, with the addition of a little guano. I think it matters very li tie what kind of liquid manure is chosen if i; be used judiciously, It would be a difficult matter to lay down a rule on this point, as some varieties require more feeding than others. To ripening the wood I pay very little attention, as it is impossible to retain the foliage where the wood is ripened and to have good plants with foliage covering the po s. The wood must not be too ripe : the best and larges; flowers are produced on rather soft wood. One of the main points which leads to success is stopping at ihe right period This requires much judgment, as some varie ies need stopping as early as the last week in April, say Mr. Brunlees, while o hers should not be s opped till wi hin a fortnight of the time of their final pot ing. To bring perfect Chrysan hemums, whether incurved or Japanese, they require both heat and air night and day. When unfolding their blooms they will stand more heat than many suppose, but must have plenty of air after the flowers show colour. I use shading in bright sunny weather, as many of the colours are very delicate and soon become pale : white turns lilac, and lilac becomes almost white ; besides, the incurved varieties will soon reflex and become useless for exhibition, especially for grouping. I am convinced than several varieties are synonymous. For instance, Golden Queen and Emily Dale, Queen of England and Princess Royal, are alike. Empress of India, White Queen, and Mrs. Cunningham are also much alike, and there are several others. I will say more on a future date. — A Grower and Exhibitor. VENTILATION. This is a subject of general interest to gardeners, and, although I have no doubt that to the majority it is a mere matter of daily routine, and causes little or no perplexity, I mud confess that I cannot look at it in that light ; in fact I think that if any subject needs ventilating it is ventilation. I am well aware that if I were to quote different writers to the horticultural press an abundant weight of evidence would lie on the side of free ventilation, while a few lines would suffice for any to the contrary. However, to start with a high authority. Mr. Taylor in his recent articles on Grape-growing says, on page 338, vol. iv , of the Journal, “ Unless a house is glazed closer than I ever saw one it is not necessary to open the ventilators merely for an interchange of air." The Lanca¬ shire system of Cucumber-growing has often been alluded to in these pages lately, especial mention having been made of Mr. Whittaker’s nursery at Prescot by Mr. Bardney and others, and it has been pointed out how not only Cucumbers but large quantities of sturdy plants of various kinds are grown in large houses without any ventilators whatever ; and yet Mr. Iggulden a week or two after, writing on winter Cucumbers, insisted on the importance of ventilating on all favourable occasions. I think that ventilation is often overdone. We endeavour to obtain what we consider a suitable condition of atmosphere in regard to heat and moisture at great labour and cost, and immediately use means to get rid of the same as speedily as possible. Science should help us here. We know that a room filled with human beings soon becomes unfit to live in if there be no ventilation, and we have no difficulty in learning how many cubic feet of fresh air a man requires in a given time; but we want to know to what extent plants vitiate the air, or what property there is in fresh air that they require, and how much. I may mention that at the present time I am chiefly inter¬ ested in Orchids, and diligently road all I can on the subject. The stereotyped directions are, at least in the growing season, “ plenty of atmospheric moisture with abundance of air," con¬ ditions easy to maintain perhaps with a genial moisture-laden south-west breeze; but how with a dry north-easter? Then it seems to me, as I have seen it before expressed, like trying to damp the air of the whole country side. “ I could a tale unfold," which, if the reader has any sym¬ pathy for the tender feelings of plants, would “ harrow up his soul ; " and if the recital did not ‘‘ freeze his blood in his veins " the reality did do so most effectually, for a batch of Phalse- nopsids just pushing into growth after their long voyage was ruined, although it was done with the kind intention of giving them air. In conclusion, in all ordinary glass houses where a consider¬ able difference between the outside and inside temperature exists, is it necessary to open the ventilators to change the air? Will not the radiation of heat from the hot-water pipes prevent stagnation ? and does any tropical plant in its native habitat ever experience anything like British east wind ? — J. J., Lancashire. DUKE OF ALBANY PEA; The new year is not an inappropriate time to refer to new vege'ables, and amongst these must be included the Pea in question. When we remember the splendid Peas that have been introduced during the past few years it is evident that a new comer must possess high qualities to obtain a creditable position. The Duke of Albany does possess high qualities ; the rows of it at Riverdale last year, where it was raised by Mr. Abbott, surpassed all others in the same garden, where all the best were grown in the most satisfactory manner. The Duke of Albany is the result of a cross between Abbott’s Hallamsliire Hero, a variety of superior quality, and Culverwell’s Telegraph. It is a wrinkled Marrow, growing 5 or 6 feet high, and bears its large dark green pods in pairs, the rows being laden with them. They were larger than those of Telegraph, not quite so much curved, and covered with a dense bloom. The peas are large, from nine to eleven in a pod, deep rich green in colour, and in this respect and flavour being quite equal to Ne Plus Ultra. But the new Pea is much earlier than this old favourite, for on some of both being sown on June 12th the Duke gave an abundant yield of fine pods, while Ne Plus Ultra in the cold Sheffield district failed to fill any pods at all. Judging by the rows in the Sheffield garden, and by a sample of Peas cooked and served at table, it is fair to describe the Duke of Albany as a very large early Ne Plus Ultra, and higher praise than that few, if any, Peas can merit. The new Pea has been frequently exhibited, and has been awarded five certificates at local shows, at which all the lead¬ ing varieties have been represented. As the stock of this Pea has, as I understand, passed into the hands of Messrs. Hurst and Son, London, for distribution, cultivators will have an opportunity of trying this new claimant to popular favour. If January 11, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 23 such rows and produce are obtained as were seen by many competent judges at Riverdale last year the Duke of Albany will establish itself, as it promises to do, as a standard Pea both for exhibition and culinary purposes. — J. Wright. BLACK ALICANTE GRAPES. This handsome variety is much grown, and is justly admired as being a showy late Grape. Perhaps a few notes on some of its peculiarities may be of use to those who may be about to plant vineries. This Grape when well ripened keeps remarkably well, and when not sufficiently ripened it often turns black in the stalk. Bottled, it keeps much better than Gros Col man, and almost as well as Lady Downe’s. When the laterals grow strongly they are extremely difficult to tie down to the wires, having generally to be left untied for sometime after other varieties in the same stage of growth have been tied down. Another peculiarity is that sometimes the bunches are produced on the extreme end of the lateral, and are consequently rather awkward to deal with ; they are also sometimes found growing upwards instead of downwards. Thinning the Alicante is no joke, as it sets so thickly and has so many small berries among the larger that cannot be knocked off by syringing, as in the case of other varieties. Black Alicante has a tendency to showsmall bunches, and, indeed, some¬ times fails to show any when the rods become old ; and much is gained in point of having well-shaped bunches and plenty of them, by either planting young Vines, which can be easily done without interfering with the rods under crop. In spite of these pecu¬ liarities Black Alicante is much in favour with many, and where a showy late Grape is wanted intending planters should not let its peculiarities exclude it from a place in their lists. Many admirers of the Alicante maintain that it has a better flavour than Lady Downe’s and Gros Colman. My estimate of it would place it before Gros Colman and behind Lady Downe’s for flavour. The number of stones in each berry is rather against Alicante when being eaten, and sometimes when it is not thoroughly ripened a tough skin and a mouthful of water and stones are what the consumer is rewarded with. When in its best condition Alicante is possessed of a certain freshness in the mouth, that in some measure compensates for the tough skin and numerous stones. No variety can equal Alicante for bloom, and when seen in its best form it is really a handsome Grape. It will bear heavy cropping with greater impunity than any other variety, hence it is a great favourite with many market growers, some of whom do not hesitate to take two bunches off most of the shoots, and have the bunches so close together that very little roof space is left uncovered. This extremely heavy cropping tends, however, to weaken even such a sturdy Vine as the Alicante, and frequent renewals are required. Gros Colman has in some measure taken the place of Alicante in many of the market places round London ; still large quantities of the Alicante are grown. — A Market Grower. ONCIDIUMS. ( Continued from page 587, last vol. ) Amongst the strange modifications of Orchid flowers the similarity which some assume to insects or birds is very remark¬ able, and in some well-known instances the resemblance is so striking that it has given rise to the specific names. Several examples of this occur amongst the British terrestrial Orchids, particularly in the genus Ophrys, in which are species named O. aranifera, O. fuscifera, 0. muscifera, O. tabanifera, O. apifera, and 0. tenthredinifera, from their resemblance to spiders, drones, flies, dunflies, bees, and sawflies. Instances of this character are, however, not so common in the tropical Orchids as might be ex¬ pected, considering the extraordinary forms assumed by so many, and which are so obviously adapted to insure cross-fertilisation. Of the tropical imitative species perhaps none is more singular and beautiful than the Butterfly Orchid — O. Papilio — which is so distinct from all its relatives, if we except 0. Kramerianum, apparently merely a variety of the former, that it has been con¬ sidered by some as constituting a different genus. This plant, moreover, is one of the few that has handsome foliage, and even the pseudo-bulbs are attractive in no ordinary degree, both that and the former being mottled with dark green and brown. The flowers are borne singly at the extremity of a long peduncle, and bear a fantastic resemblance to the general conformation of a butterfly, one of the chief characters that give rise to this simi¬ larity being the three sepals, which are long, narrow, and directed upwards, forcibly reminding us of the proboscis and antenna? of the Lepidoptera. The petals are much broader, not so long, the margin undulated, and yellow with orange, brown, or chocolate transverse irregular bars. The lip is rounded, narrowed at the base, and indented at the outer margin, bright yellow in the centre, and broadly margined with reddish or orange-brown. There are several varieties diliering greatly in the size and colouring, and some are comparatively worthless, such, for in¬ stance, as was figured in vol. xi. of the “Botanical Register.” The best varieties are, however, extremely fine, and the long period the flowers remain in perfection is an additional recom¬ mendation of great value. Indeed, the plant is in flower at all times of the year ; but the bloom or spike should never be cut, as fresh flowers are produced at the top after the old one has faded, the spike thus continuing on the plant for a great length of time. It is not difficult of cultivation, and may be grown either in a pot or on a block, preferably in a warm house with the other heat- loving Orchids, though it also succeeds well in an intermediate or cool house, and if placed in such a structure when the plant is in flower it lasts even longer than usual in a higher temperature. A compost of peat, sphagnum, and small potsherds or pieces of charcoal suit it when in a pot, and the same compost is the best that can be employed for all Oncids under culture in pots. The species was introduced by Sir Ralph Woodford, Governor of Trinidad, in 1825, so that it is quite an old friend now ; but its ally, a variety, 0. Kramerianum, which differs chiefly in the deeper colour of the flowers, is of much later introduction, and has now only been in cultivation about ten years. It is very handsome, and a great favourite with orchidists. Several other species of Oncidiums are supposed to resemble insects, animals, or birds in their flowers, such as 0. raniferum, which has small purple and yellow flowers somewhat like a frog, while the column of 0. pelicanum has been considered like a “ pelican pecking its breast,” and by a little stretch of the imagination the similarity may be perceived. Both these are comparatively rare, and by no means so attractive as the showy Butterfly Oncid. 0. macranthum. — The woodcut (fig. 6) represents a flower of average size of this very distinct and beautiful Oncid, for the better varieties now well merit the designation “ beautiful,” as with other Orchids, in this genus the eailier forms are not equal to some of these subsequently obtained by introduction or selec¬ tion. The species is a native of New Granada and Peru, and it JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 24 was first described from specimens collected by the travellers Ruiz and Pavon. It has been found at great elevations on the mountains of South America — namely, at 14,000 feet on Tan- guragua by Hartweg, and on the Andes at 7000 feet by Professor Jameson of Quito, and, as might be expected from its habitat, the plant thrives best in a cool house in company with Odonto- glossums and other Oncids. It first flowered in England about 1868, both in Lord Londesborough’s and Messrs. Yeitch’s collec¬ tions. The panicle is long, straggling or climbing, and it is usually trained round a few stakes oi light trellis, and some attention of that kind is absolutely necessary, as, though the normal type has been described as not exceeding 3 feet in length, varieties are now grown of which the panicles have reached 8 feet. The sepals are roundish, of irregular form ; the two lower of an orange hue, and the upper one brownish or bronzed. The petals are of similar shape but pale yellow, while the triangular pointed lip is white in the centre, bordered with deep rich purple. The contrast of tints is very striking. O. macranthum var. hastiferum is remarkable for the length of the spike, commonly exceeding 6 feet, and some¬ times as much as 9 feet long, bearing thirty or forty flowers. The species and its varieties require culture in pots, similar compost to that already recommended being suitable. The flowers are produced in spring and early summer. 0. Marshalliantjh. — A magnificent Orchid, and unquestion¬ ably one of the best in the genus, but unlike the preceding in requiring a higher temperature, and must therefore be grown with the other heat-loving Oncids. This species has a large broad branched panicle bearing large flowers, of which one is shown in fig. 7. These have the two lateral sepals very small and incon¬ spicuous, the upper being much larger and barred with purple. The petals are still larger with an undulated margin, bright yellow, barred and blotched with purple in the centre. The lip is of great size, contracted at the base into a claw which is spotted with bright red, the other portion being rounded, two-lobed at the apex, and of a brilliant clear yellow hue. This grand Orchid was first flowered by VV. Marshall, Esq., of Enfield, in honour of whom it is named. Some have failed in the cultivation of this Orchid, chiefly for two reasons — first through growing it on blocks, and secondly by having it in too low a temperature, the remedies for which will be evident to all. 0. Marshallianum has been found to be one of those Orchids which is in danger of flowering itself to death unless very well treated, and it has often caused an inexperienced grower surprise to observe pseudo-bulbs yearly decreasing in size, while the flowers continue to be freely produced. Perhaps the best temperature of all is an intermediate one with liberal supplies of water, and if the plant gives evidence of deteriorating remove the flower spikes until strength has been regained. — L. Castle. (To be continued.) AIGBURTH BRUSSELS SPROUTS. In reply to your correspondent “S. D.,” page 568 of the Journal of Horticulture , in reference to the above, permit me to say that my experience has been quite the reverse to his. I had not become a constant reader of the Journal a year ago, therefore I did not see the article written by Mr. Iggulden as referred to by your correspondent “ S. D.” I have been acquainted with the Aigburth Sprout ever since it was first sent out by Messrs. Ker and Sons of Liverpool. I have seen it in several well-managed gardens in different parts of the country, and all with whom 1 am acquainted that grow it speak highly of it. I have grown it here for two seasons, and rather extensively too, as Brussels Sprouts are favourites here, and the principal green vegetable for winter and early spring. I have grown it in rich deep stiff soil, also in rather poor shallow soil, but the crops from the former have been in every way superior to the latter. On shallow soil it scarcely becomes 15 inches high, whereas in deep soil it is nearly 2 feet, and well studded from bottom to top with rather large, very firm, and first-rate flavoured sprouts. It has another advantage over any other variety that I am acquainted with — that is, it keeps longer in good condition. This year I have also grown the Dalkeith Improved, but I find the A ;burth so far superior that, contrary to “ S. D.,” I shall not grow any other while the Aigburth does so well. — W. C., Leagram. Having this season grown the above and the old imported variety side by side, I may be allowed to corroborate what your correspondent “ S. D.,” on page 568, says respecting its merits. Both were sown at the same time, and received precisely the same treatment, the Aigbuith from the first outstripping its rival in luxuriance of growth. Its greatest drawback is the short time [ January 11, 1883. the sprouts keep whole, the imported keeping tolerably well up to now, only a few of the sprouts opening here and there, while the sprouts of the Aigburth are nearly all open and useless. The soil in which they are growing is good. Thus the Aigburth not having proved satisfactory it will not be again grown by me. — J. Richardson, Calverton Hall. EASTER BEURRE AND BEURRE RANCE PEARS. In answer to the query in last week’s Journ 1 concerning these Pears, at Holme Lacy there are trees of the former on walls facing south, east, and west, a’so trained as espaliers in the open, on Quince and Pear stocks, and the fruit was seldom worth eating, bearing no comparison to other good late kinds. I have often heard that in France Easter Beurre and Duchesse d’Angouleme are the best melting Pears, whilst in England they are too often com¬ paratively worthless for dessert. Sometimes Beurrd Ranee is found worth eating, but generally it is the other way. In my opinion they are Pears not to be relied on. I may mention that the soil at Holme Lacy is all that can be desired for producing good Pears. — A. Young. _ Neither Easter Beurrd nor Beurr6 Ranee Pears can be depended on to ripen in Nottinghamshire, at least in a garden where the soil is strong and the subsoil clay. For ten years I gathered crops of the former, but the fruit was never more than second-rate in quality, and occasionally decidedly third-rate. Beurre Ranee is still more uncertain, as it frequently refuses to ripen at all ; is, in fact, no better than a stewing Pear. After trying these varieties over the period stated the trees were cut down and grafted with Josephine de M alines and Bergamotte Esperen. On visiting a garden in the neighbouring county (Lincoln) last year, I found much the same results with the two Pears first named, and the gardener resolved to do what I had done — cut them down. I am told these Pears are uncertain even in the south of England. — A N otts Gardener. FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. I think that I am justified in saying that this is about the most critical season of the year for the florist and the one which most tries his patience. There is nothing to be seen of the beauty of his plants, and indeed they are at their very worst ; but none the less does he need to exercise careful supervision over them, for neglect now means loss and disappointment by-and-by. A few hints, then, concerning them for those who are not perfect in their culture, nor among those happy individuals who never have anything the matter with their plants, may not be unacceptable. Auriculas. — The great danger to guard against in the Auricula frame is damp. Cleanliness, of course, has to be secured ; green fly must be carefully guarded against and brushed off whenever it appears, and weeds must be taken away. But drip is a more insidious enemy, especially when, if the weather be severe, it becomes necessary to keep the frames close. If a pot has become soddened by wet, and then the frames have to be kept close, the great probability is that the plant will be lost. Therefore it is well to examine the frames from time to time, and, if any drip should show itself, to remove the plant from under it (as there will be little chance of remedying the fault just now) into some drier spot. This very wet season has made this a point very necessary to be continually attended to. One great evil of autumn blooming is, that if the flowering stem has come from the heart of the plant in a damp season like this it is almost impossible to prevent injury. The stem gradually decays down to the heart of the plant, taking mildew with it, and too frequently permanent loss, and it too often happens that it is some of our best varieties that take this freak of autumn blooming. Very little requires to be done in the way of watering ; indeed it is astonishing for how long the Auricula will last without it. Where there is any sign of flagging of course it must be done at all risks, but otherwise they will require none. As next month will be the time for top-dressing it will be well to be provided with the necessary compost in time, keeping it dry and ready for use. There are various ways of top-dressing, some using a larger quantity of manure than others. I believe, how¬ ever, that it is better to have the compost not quite so rich as some advise, but, as in ordinary potting, using a large quantity of good loam, into which the roots proceeding from the upper part of the plant will soon push themselves, and the more fibrous it is the better they seem to enjoy it. Beginners must not be disappointed at the meagre appearance of their plants now all the fine luxu¬ riant leaves of the last season have died off ; but if a little stout stubby heart is left there is no need to be discouraged, for it is January ii, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 25 astonishing how rapidly when the proper time comes the plant is developed. Carnations and Picotees. — Here again the great enemy is damp. They do not mind cold provided the earth in the pots is kept sufficiently dry ; but where this is not the case then spot com¬ mences, and this very soon spreads in a collection. It will be therefore necessary if it occurs to cut oil with a pair of scissors the leaf or part of the leaf so affected, and to remove all decaying leaves. I have seen but little of it in my frames this year, although in some seasons I have been troubled with it. Where the plants have been potted in good loam with a little road grit added they are, I fancy, less liable to it than when closer compost has been used. Keep green fly away, remove weeds from the pots, and when necessary stir the surface with a blunt stick. Pansies.— Where these are grown in pots it will soon be neces¬ sary to think of repotting them. In the meantime the same directions will apply to them as to the foregoing, only that as they are more succulent they will require a little more attention in the way of watering, which, however, should be very carefully done. Pinks. — The great danger to these in beds is that, owing to the action either of frost or worms, they may be drawn out of the ground. If, however, when they were planted a small piece of stick has been used to secure each plant there will be less danger Fig. 7. — Oncidium Marshallianum. (See page 24.) of this. By-the-by, what a comment on the neglect of florists’ flowers in and about the metropolis is the fact, that while money in abundance was forthcoming to establish a Pink show, the thing failed because there could not be brought together a sufficient number of exhibitors to make a show. Imagine anywhere in the north or in Scotland such a state of things as this. Tulips. — For those who grow the florists’ varieties (which I do not) this must have been a very trying season for planting. I have had a great difficulty in seizing an opportunity for planting my bed of early Tulips, and as this can be done in a much easier manner than the late-flowering ones I imagine there must have been considerable difficulty. Ranunculus of course are safe and snug in their drawers or boxes, and will only require looking at now and then to see that there is no mildew. Finally, whenever the weather is favourable give all the air possible to the frames. Coddling is one of the great enemies of florists’ flowers. They are mostly hardy plants, and being treated thus as half-hardy ones it becomes only necessary to see that they are supplied with that which they would have in abundance were they treated as hardy — plenty of fresh air. — D., Peal. Carters’ Little Pixie Cabbage. — At this time of the year, when neither Cauliflower nor Broccoli are generally to be had, a sweet, melting, delicious small head of excellent Cabbage takes precedence for most purposes of any other vegetable in general utility. I say “ small ” head, because no matter how grown, a large variety will be now stringy, fibrous, and with a disagreeable amount of midrib. Now, this dwarfish Cabbage can be used whole, and can hardly be said to have any waste. After 14° of frost at the commencement of last month, it now fully merits the description of hardy, juicy, and melt¬ ing. _ Where there is a large household it should not be grown alone, but in conjunction with larger kinds, with the view of having it for special members of the family. I have commended it to several, and their testimony to this effect is unanimous. — W. J. M., Clonmel. MRS. P1NCE GRAPE. I tVAS very pleased to observe Mr. Roberts saying a good word at page 594 of your last volume for Mrs. Pince. When properly grown this is a really good late-keeping black Muscat ; as grown at Worksop Manor it has the “musque” flavour well developed early in the season. I beg to add my testimony to the excellency of the Grapes at Woodseat in general, and of Mrs. Pince in particular. Unless my memory deceives me, the bunches grown by Mr. Hollingworth last season would average quite half a pound more than those borne by the famous Mrs. Pince at Garston Vineyard in 1868. Having been an occasional visitor to Woodseat since 1865, I believe I can safely say that the crop of Grapes in 1882 was never before surpassed, not even by the famous prize bunches grown by Mr. Rabone, good as they were. Mr. Hollingworth is one of those gardeners who appear to have no difficulty in growing excellent fruit. — J. U. S. SELECT VEGETABLES. ( Continued from page 590, last vol.) Brussels Sprouts. — The newest among these is Suttons’ Reading Exhibition and the Aigburth, and they are both good for exhi¬ bition, but they require to be well selected before they will become trustworthy varieties for everyday use. Among the best Brussels Sprouts I have grown or seen is the one known under the name of Webbs’ Matchless. It grows most compact, and buttons evenly from bottom to top. Scrymger’s Giant is only third-rate. The Dalkeith when true is better. Cabbages. — These are grown in every garden, and we have many varieties to select from, but our stock is well reduced, and only the very best is grown. Ellam’s Early Dwarf Spring is a new variety but rather small. Wheeler’s Imperial is larger and better. Cocoa-nut is too small. Nonpareil is good. Early York will never be grown here again. Redbraes is the best of all the mid¬ season varieties. Webbs’ Imperial is another which should be grown everywhere. Drumheads should only be grown for feeding cattle. The Colewort is most useful in winter. Red Dutch is the best for pickling. Chou de Burghley was at first known to us as the Cabbage Broccoli, but under any name it is a splendid winter vegetable which will no doubt find a place in every garden. Cucumbers. — Of these there are some new or improved sorts being introduced almost every year, but all do not excel the old kinds. The true Telegraph is still a Cucumber of the highest merit, and although we may grow other kinds on trial and other¬ wise, we will never be without a few plants of Telegraph. In newer kinds we have a highly promising sort in Pettigrew’s Car¬ diff Castle, and Carters’ Model is very useful. The latter appears to be a well-selected variety of Telegraph, and as such we value it much ; and of the Cardiff variety it is impossible to speak too highly. It has an excellent constitution , is most prolific and of fine flavour. It is an all-the-year-round bearer, as it fruits almost as freely in winter as summer. The fruits are from 12 to 15 inches long and are produced in clusters at every joint. I would never desire a better table Cucumber than this, and it should be grown by all. Many Cucumbers have only their great length and size to recommend them, and some growers appear to value this quality above all. I have proved repeatedly that the largest-fruiting kinds are not the most profitable, and would neither recommend them for the table nor encourage them at shows. From time to time I have secured many prizes for Cucumbers, yet I never com¬ peted with a fruit more than 15 inches in length. Cauliflowers. — This is one of the most popular of vegetables, and no doubt that is the chief cause of there being so many new, distinct, and superior varieties offered every year, but a very few of the best will give more satisfaction and as heavy and long a supply as innumerable sorts. Yeitch’s Extra Early Dwarf Forcing is sure to become a great favourite, as it is the earliest of all, very true to name, dwarf and compact in growth, and produces small white heads of the choicest quality. If sown in spring it will head equally as early as those sown in autumn, and in this way all the trouble of keeping plants over the winter for the spring supplies is avoided. Early London is a good successional one to this. Dwarf Mammoth is a splendid summer variety. It is dwarf in growth and bears very large heads. I have cut more fine heads from a thousand plants of this variety than from any other. J 26 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . t January 11, mbs. It is very true to the original character. As an autumn Cauli¬ flower Veitch’s Autumn Giant is now favourably known. For a supply from September to Christmas it has no equal, and after that the Broccolis referred to in my last notes come in. Carrots. — Those who object to new kinds of vegetables appeal¬ ing too rapidly must be pleased that the Carrot has been so long left alone, as no new varieties have been introduced for a number of years. The earliest of all Carrots is the small French Forcing, which is an excellent early one for a frame. Nantes Horn is the best to follow this, and in shallow soils it should be grown as a main-crop variety. James’s Intermediate Scarlet is another first- class variety, and no other need be grown for autumn and winter use. Red Surrey is the best of all the long varieties ; but long Carrots are no favourites of mine, as they are the least profitable as a crop and the most inferior and coarsest in the kitchen. Celery. — Varieties of Celery diller widely, and it is on variety as much as culture that good produce depends. The red varieties are the hardiest and soundest-growing, the white ones being most tender and not to be recommended for the winter. In fact I am about to discontinue growing white Celeries on this account. My selection of the red varieties is as follows — Defiance, Major Clarke’s, and Williams’ Matchless. The first-named is perhaps the best. Of whites Sandringham and Turner’s Incomparable are to be preferred. Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery, is dwarf -growing, most useful for soups or stewing. The large Spanish variety of Cardoon is the best for all purposes. Capsicums.- — These are not always classed amongst vegetables, but in some parts of England they are regarded as such, parti¬ cularly about Cheltenham, where no show collections of vege¬ tables are considered complete without them. The Long Red is the largest fruiting variety and the most useful. Prince of Wales and Princess of Wales have much smaller pods and are very ornamental. Chicory. — One of the most useful of plants for winter salads. The largest-rooted Brussels is generally known as Witloef, and is the best to grow. Endive.— This is another most valuable winter salad plant which everyone should grow. We have tried a dozen or more varieties, but only grow two as main crops ; one is the Moss Curled variety, but the other is newer, and is the Improved Broad-leaved Batavian. This in my opinion is the finest winter salad we possess. Last year I had several new sorts of Endive from Messrs. Carter which deserve careful trial. Fennel.— The ordinary kind of this is seldom used as a vege¬ table, but there is a newer sort named the Sicilian Sweet, which will be much used in this way when better known. It forms thick stems not unlike Celery, and is used in much the same way. Lcelis. — These are most useful at this season, and a good patch of them is never out of place in my garden. The New Carentan is disappointing. It is no longer than some others and not so hardy. The Musselburgh is the best of all Leeks. Ayton Castle Giant is another good one. The Lyon lately introduced must be tried further before it can be placed amongst the standard sorts, but it promises well.— A Kitchen Gardener. (To be continued.) THE COOL SYSTEM OF GRAPE CULTURE. Your correspondent, “ Vitis Secundus,” is evidently anxious to prove that I am on the side of the cool-treatment advocates. No one would be more willing to grow Grapes on the cool treat¬ ment than myself, but I have hitherto failed to do so satisfactorily. Others may have succeeded in producing as finely finished Grapes with the cool treatment as with a warmer one. When anyone says he has done so I am ready to believe the statement. There is nothing to be gained by quibbling and casting doubt on others’ veracity. Fair discussion and assertion of opinion and experience are productive of good, but away with all petty endeavours to pick holes in another’s statement simply for the sake of being considered smart. When I said, Start the Vines in the “middle of February” to be in “good condition for the table” by the middle of September, I meant by “good condition” not merely being eatable, but in perfect condition. All who have experience of Grape culture should know that there is a time when each variety of Grape is in its best condition for use. I say, then, that the Duke for instance, if started the middle of February, is “ eatable ” by the beginning of August, but “ perfect ” by the middle of September. This I have proved repeatedly. The Duke is earlier than the Black Hamburgh. I have had the Duke eatable a fortnight earlier than the Black Hamburgh, both grown in the same house, this when they were being grown for early work. Will anyone assert that the Black Hamburgh is in perfect con¬ dition as regards flavour when used as an early Grape and cut immediately it is black ? In my experience it is the last used early Hamburghs that may have hung a month longer than those first cut that alone have rich flavour. It is the rage for having early Grapes, flavour or no flavour, that causes so many Grapes to be cut when they are far from being in really good condition for the table. In inside borders the Duke and Madresfield Court will improve greatly in flavour and richness by being allowed to hang at least a month after the time they may be considered eatable. I gave advice to “ J. E. R. I.” thinking that he wanted Grapes in perfect condition, and I have seen no reason for altering my opinion. The Duke can be had in an eatable condition in five months, in a better condition in six, but perfect in seven. “ Vitis Secundus ” has shown some ingenuity in trying to prove me a follower of the cool system, but I can assure him he is wrong. For some important reasons I would gladly practise the cool treatment and give honour to those who had led me to try it if I could succeed with it, but this I have not been able to do, therefore intend to abide by a mode of treatment that has proved successful. I am not prejudiced against the cool treatment, I simply speak from experience. — Vitis. VIOLET ODORATA PENDULA OF NEW YORK. I DO not send blooms of these as being anything very remark¬ able in the way of specimens, but simply because they have been gathered from plants growing in the open garden January 2nd. The Violets are odorata pendula of New York chiefly ; there are also a few of De Parme. We picked this morning all from plants of New York, growing out of doors without protection, sufficient to make thirty large bunches, and the plants are still covered with buds and blooms. They have continued in constant bloom since the end of August, and although we bad one week of very sharp frost, they seem to be going on again as gaily as ever. I grow twenty-six varieties of Violets, but I have none which equals New York for general utility. The bunch of Primroses and Poly¬ anthuses is also rather a phenomenon at this season, ours seem to have been in bloom all the autumn and winter so far. — R. W. BeACHEY, King slier swell, Devon. [The blooms of odorata pendula are large, full, double, rich in colour, and very fragrant, those of De Parme being rather smaller and paler. Both are good, the former very fine. The Primroses and foliage are fresh and bright, as we usually see them in April. We thank our correspondent for this appropriate new year’s gift. The New Yoik Violet evidently merits the pro¬ minence that is accorded it.] MY SUBURBAN GARDEN. (A COLUMN FOR AMATEURS.) The garden which I am proud to call my own would be lightly regarded by those professionals who are happy, or other¬ wise, in the charges of long ranges of glass and acres of pleasure grounds ; but what would be small to them is great to me, and the pleasure I derive from my little enclosure cannot be estimated by its size. I rejoice in a few small houses for plants and Vines ; very small some of them are and plain, yet they are neat and answer their purpose. They are supplemented by a small ranges of frame-like brick pits and a few moveable frames or boxes, as all houses should be. My garden contains a small lawn with flower beds, shrubbery borders, herbaceous beds, and two rockeries, one in the sun for alpine plants, the other in the shade for Ferns. A square is devoted to vegetable^, with a lew pyramid fruit trees next the central paths and arched over it, and on the boundary fences I have next the houses Roses and other flowers, and further dis¬ tant cordon Pears, Currants, and Gooseberries. This variety is afforded in a small space, for the entire “ property ” — lawn and paths, shrubbery, vegetable ground, structures, and residence — occupy less than an acre of ground. My labour consists in my own spare hours in a professional life and the aid of my factotum George, who has “risen in the world ” from bootboy to groom and gardener, and I think he is proud of his position. He is a handy man, has grown up with the place, and will do certain things that perhaps a “ real ” gardener might think infra dig. ; but this is an advantage rather than otherwise, and he possesses the virtue of obedience. Occasionally, JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 11, 1883. ] it is true, he has mildly remonstrated against a prescribed course ; but has never gone beyond this — “’Course I’ll do it sir, but if it doesn't answer don’t blame me.” In that there is nothing im¬ proper, but, on the contrary, the course is prudent ; and, besides, the remark indicates that the man thinks as well as works, as every man must do if he wishes to excel in his calling. 1 also employ a labourer for a week occasionally to do plain straightfor¬ ward heavy work, such as digging and setting things square for routine operations. Now, if there is nothing very great accomplished at Beechwood Villa, nor few startling effects produced, there is generally some¬ thing to look at and something to eat. For instance, Grapes, Apples and Pears, Tomatoes, Rhubarb, and Mushrooms of our “own growing,” with flowers in abundance were in season at Christmas, so were Kidney Beans, but those had been salted down. Scheming and economising are practised to maintain the rounds — to “always have something ; ” and although there are periods of scarcity and mishaps occasionally, a total blank has seldom to be deplored. A rather good judge of gardening, in fact a rather great man, was a Christmas guest at the Villa this year, and he was good enough to express his approval of the garden and its products, and to suggest that it would be useful to other suburbanists, and even to him, to know how it is managed, and that I ought to write to the papers. “ Write to the papers,” I repeated, I fear rather contemptuously ; “no editor would print what I could say about such a bandbox of a place.” “Wouldn’t he, though ; try him,” was the reply. The notion that at first seemed almost ludicrous, on reflection did not appear unreasonable, for, others having benefited me, why should not I attempt, at least, to benefit others ? Then, on still further reflection the fact grew clearer and clearer, that after all there are ten times more small than large gardens, and ten times more amateurs needing instruction than can possibly be gardeners, for these are already skilled. I therefore make the venture, and submit what is my test paper. If it is rejected no one will be the worse, and if accepted I will, as time permits and the Editor wills, tell in my own way how I manage my own garden, in the hope that a hint may be scattered here and there that may be of service to little men. The great gardeners will, therefore, please skip this column, or if they read it remember that the writer has no claims to equal knowledge with themselves, but simply desires to aid others who, like himself, may be seeking to derive pleasure, recreation, and health in the better management of their suburban gardens. — M. D. PETTIGREW'S CARDIFF CASTLE CUCUMBER. There are few of the many novelties that are added to our seed catalogues yearly which deserve more praise than this Cucumber. For shape, size, and flavour it is all that can be desired, and for its bearing I do not think there are any Cucumbers to equal it. Along with other old standard varieties we had three plants of Cardiff Castle, all planted early last spring ; and although the other varieties were completely worn out by autumn Cardiff Castle has continued bearing, and at present (3rd January) we have good Cucumbers still on the plants. The only extra treat¬ ment they received was after the other plants had been removed, when they were trained equally over the roof, and the bed received a top-dressing of manure. This is a seasonable time for the readers of the Journal to give their opinions on the former years’ novelties, and I think when such is recommended to the public and proves such a success it reflects great credit to the raiser, and also to the firm that sends such novelties out. — D. M. C, The Imperial Horticultural Society of Russia will hold an International Exhibition and Congress at St. Peters- i burgh on the 5th of May, and it will continue open for twelve days. Invitations have already been issued to the leading European horticulturists and botanists, and a highly satisfactory show is confidently expected. Unfortunately, however, the dates ©f this and of the Ghent International (April 25th) will clash to some extent, ■ ■=:: . ■ ■■■-■ :-= - The ninth Exhibition of the Pelargonium Society will be held on Tuesday, June 26th, in the Royal Horticultural Society ’8 Gardens, South Kensington, when the usual prizes will be offered for Show, Fancy, Zonal, and Ivy-leaved varieties. Certificates will be awarded for the most distinct and meritorious new varieties, and the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society offer a silver Banksian medal as a prize for the best specimen Pelargonium in the Exhibition. The report which accompanies the schedule states that at the last Show there was competition in all classes except those for hybrids of Geranium pratense and Pelargonium oblongatum. As, however, it is believed there are hybrids of these species in cultivation, the classes have been re¬ tained in the present year’s schedule because they “ might result in bringing before the public novelties possessed of peculiar interest.” - We may remind our readers that the objects which the Pelargonium Society has set itself to accomplish are : — 1, To pro¬ mote the improvement of the various groups or sections of the genus Pelargonium ; 2, To facilitate the introduction of new species, and the raising of new varieties and hybrids ; 3, To give system and method generally to the practice of hybridisation in this family. These several objects it proposes to accomplish : — 1, By facilitating intercourse and interchange of opinion and ex¬ perience between raisers and cultivators of these flowers ; 2, By fostering a spirit of emulation in the production of new varieties and in meritorious cultivation ; 3, By offering prizes — as liberal and numerous as the funds subscribed may permit — for compe¬ tition amoDgst its members ; 4, By determining the merits and distinctive qualities of new varieties, so far as they come within its cognizance ; 5, By cultivating for criticism all obtainable novelties, British and foreign, side by side, the first year under glass, and the second year out of doors — facilities for accom¬ plishing this have been generously afforded by the Royal Horti¬ cultural Society at Chiswick ; 6, By awarding certificates of merit to varieties considered worthy of that distinction, and publishing an annual list of awards. - One of the most attractive features in the Royal Horti¬ cultural Society’s Gardens at Chiswick at the present time is a fine batch of Echeveria retusa, which is extremely useful as a winter-flowering plant. Easily increased and cultivated this plant has rapidly advanced in public favour, and it has now taken a place amongst the best of market plants in winter. The flowers are bell-shaped, much larger than E. secunda ; orange red, very bright and rich outside, the inner surface being yellow. They are borne in a two-branched inflorescence at the extremity of the stem, the two branches curling slightly downwards. Plants in 48-size pots are most useful and produce several flowering stems, the blooms lasting for a considerable time in good condition. A rich light loam and well-drained pots are needed to insure success, and plants are best prepared by growing them out of doors during the summer, lifting and potting them in the autumn, when they can be transferred to the conservatory or greenhouse. The species was found by Mr. Hartweg growing on rocks near Auganguco, Mexico, and was first received from him by the Royal Horti¬ cultural Society in 1846. An excellent engraving of the plant was given in this Journal, page 188, vol. xxxiv., March 7th, 1878. — — As a proof of the mild winter, it may be mentioned that Primroses were being sold in penny bunches in the southern suburbs of London last week. The hawkers stated that they were chiefly gathered in the copses among the Surrey hills around Sanderstead, Warlingham, and Barrow Green. - Mr. S. Mortimer, The Gardens, Purley Park, Reading, writes : — “ I send you a pseudo-bulb of Coelogyne cristata with flower spike attached. It is from a plant in a 9-inch pot, and is 28 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t January 11, 1883. now carrying forty-one spikes of bloom, being quite three weeks earlier in flowering. As soon as the plant began to make its growth |about the middle of April I gave it a shift into a pan about 16 inches in diameter by 6 inches deep, and it has succeeded splendidly under the treatment advised in this Journal, being now a plant 3 feet in diameter.” The flowers and pseudo-bulb received indicate excellent health, and the plant must be very handsome. - Prominent amongst the few plants in flower out of doors in January may be noticed TUSSILAGO frAgrAns, which, how¬ ever, is less noteworthy for its beauty than for the Heliotrope- like fragrance of the flowers. A clump or two in a rockery now is most welcome, and if potted a few plants are valuable for the conservatory. The flowers individually are small and white, in dense heads about half an inch or more in diameter, and these are borne in clusters at the upper part of the stem. The style protrudes much beyond the flower, the tip being white with a ring of dark reddish anthers, the contrast being very notable. - The usual monthly meeting of the Horticultural Club took place on Tuesday at the Club-room, 13, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, and was well attended. Several subjects of interest were brought forward. Dr. Masters very kindly exhibited the.beautiful series of photographs of Orchids, &c., taken by Mr. Stevens. A curious form of Echeveria secunda glauca, fasciated and'almost like a green Cockscomb, originated by Mr. Brown( gardener to A. J. Waterlow, Esq., Eeigate, was shown by the Secretary. There were also shown a very minute form of Poly¬ podium vulgare called parvissimum ; some dried fronds of Ferns, the most beautiful being a very delicate orm of Athyrium F.-f. plumosum ; and some remarkable specim of fungoid growth. It was arranged that during the summer months meetings should be held at some place of horticultural interest in the neighbourhood of London. - Messrs. J. Carter & Co., High Holborn, inform us that theyjintend offering the following special prizes at the Royal Horticultural Society’s Shows : — For the best brace of fruits of Carters’ Blenheim Orange Melon and Carters’ Emerald Melon ; first prize £2 2,?., second £1 10.?,, third 15#., fourth 10#. 6 d., fifth 7s. 6 d. July 3rd, for the best four dishes of Peas (fifty pods each) of Stratagem, Telephone, Pride of the Market, and Culver- well’s Telegraph ; first prize £5, second £3, third £2, fourth £1, fifth] 10#. 6d. July 24th, for the best six dishes of Tomatoes, twelve fruits to form a dish, to include Dedham Favourite, Green Gage, Vick’s Criterion ; first prize 63#., second 42#., third 21#., fourth 10#. 6 d. December] lltb, for the best twelve dishes of vegetables, to comprise twelve Onions, Golden Queen, Silver Ball, and Golden Globe ; three Cauliflowers, six Carrots, three Celery, six Parsnips, fifty Brussels Sprouts, three red Beet, twelve Parsnips, twelve Potatoes, six Leeks ; first prize £5, second]£3, third £1 10#., fourth £1, fifth 10#., sixth 7s. 6d. - The members of the Tooting Horticultural Society, at their monthly meeting held on the 4th inst., presented their Secretary, Mr. W. H. Gower, with a testimonial consisting of a handsome oak writing desk and inkstand combined, as a mark of their esteem, and in appreciation of his services rendered to the Society since its formation. - Relative to Mushroom culture out of doors “Agaricus” writes — “I adopted the mode of preparing the manure and making the beds so fully and lucidly described by Mr. Wright in the Journal, and am well pleased with the result. I have three times the quantity of beds from the same amount of manure, and the crop is equally as good as under the old system Now being a good time to form outdoor beds, the appearance of the promised work on Mushroom culture would be a boon to many. The little brochure will prove a standard work. When shall we have it ? ” Soon. - At a general meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society last Tuesday, Mr. David Wooster in the chair, the following candidates were unanimously elected Fellows, viz : — G. Mander Allender, John Avery, R. Barbey, J. Hall, T. Hankin, Thomas Scruton, and Walter Williams. - Gardening Appointments. — Mr. T. W. Sanders, re¬ cently foreman at Buxted Park, Dckfield, has been appointed head gardener to J. W. Larking, Esq., The Firs, Lee ; and Mr. A. Taylor succeeds Mr. H. Walker as gardener to Mrs. Jas. Taylor, Ashdown, Apperley Bridge, Leeds. - The annual general meeting of the Meteorological Society will be held at 25, Great George Street, Westminster, on Wednesday, the 17th inst., at 7 P.M., when the report of the Council will be read, the election of Officers and Council for the ensuing year will take place, and the President will deliver his address. MARECHAL NIEL ROSE. The universal failure of Mardchal Niel in the open air during the last few years has caused no little tribulation among Rose exhibitors, and I was therefore glad to see that a correspondent called attention to the fact in your paper on page 565, last volume. For my part I have little doubt as to what is the cause of the evil. Nearly every plant sent out to buyers is raised in heat. A large number of Mardcbals are grafted in the winter, and being kept in warm houses the plants grow with astonishing vigour. In the summer they are sent out, to all outward appearance, fine healthy plants. If they are planted in the open air they forthwith dwindle and fail. If they do not die in their first winter they only drag on a sickly existence afterwards. Marechal Niel is a tender Rose no doubt, but not nearly so tender as is generally supposed ; but if it were as hardy as Senateur Vaisse it would fail out of doors if it had been raised in heat. Under this forcing system an extraordinary growth is made in six months, but all the stamina is cooked out of the plant. Unfortunately it is by no means an easy matter to raise the Mardchal in the open, either by budding or by cuttings, while under glass it is the easiest thing possible ; consequently it pays to produce these grand-looking plants in heat, but it does not paj to produce much smaller but much hardier plants in the open. Under these circumstances it is almost useless to hope that the present system of raising the Mardchal will be altered. The stock will of course be raised in the easiest and most paying manner. The only thing that amateurs can do then, if they want to have the Marshal blooming out of doors in June, is to raise plants themselves in the open. From experience I believe that the best plants are obtained from cuttings, and that a well-grown Mardchal on its own roots is not to be surpassed ; but it takes two or three years to get a plant raised from a cutting to grow and bloom in perfection. If a man has the patience to raise his Marshals in the open air in this fashion he will have his reward. A Mardchal in a small pot, a plant six months old with a shoot 8 feet long, is a snare and delusion. — Gamma Phi. CUCUMBER DISEASE. I had some experience with this much-dreaded pest a few years ago in a garden where Cucumbers were in great demand. It was then August, and every probable remedy had been tried that could be thought of — viz., new soils and fresh seed obtained from a source where there was no Cucumber disease ; but the results were that as soon as the first fruits were seen the disease appeared. Cucumbers were, however, wanted winter and summer, so after trying all remedies by day we determined to begin by night. Fumigating with tobacco paper three nights in succession was tried, the atmosphere being kept drier and the temperature higher. After three or four nights fumigating was again tried. This treatment was carried on for about three weeks. The plants were then carefully examined, and all spotted leaves and gummed fruits removed, a top-dressing of fresh soil being applied. The result was that the plants started growing freely, and produced a very fair crop of fruit for Christmas and on till February, quite free from spot or gum. After that I always kept a sharp look¬ out for the first spot, and if any was seen the fumigator was placed in the house two hours after dark. The two following seasons Cucumbers were cut by hundreds without a spot. I feel sure if your correspondent, Mr. A. Harding, will try the above January 11, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 29 cure next season he will not suffer from this troublesome pest. I may add that I have not seen any trace of it for over three years. — Thos. Weaves. NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. I NOTICE that Mr. Moorman says the blooms are grown larger and of greater substance and solidity than formerly — that is to say, the growers of to-day grow better blooms than those of some years ago. I am not prepared to dispute this, it may be so ; but we ought to take into consideration the fact that we have now better material to work with. Every year adds some new sport or variety to the incurved sorts, and what would our exhibitions be without the Japanese, which were not in the country a quarter of a century ago ? It is nearly twenty-five years ago since Golden Queen of England was sent out, and I well remember being at the exhibition when prizes were offered for it for the first time, and those blooms with others exhibited with it are still vividly im¬ pressed on my mind. I am not sure if I have seen better since of the same varieties ; but many varieties introduced since that time are far superior in quality. Mrs. Bundle had not been raised, nor Empress of India, and Princess of Teck is a more recent intro¬ duction still. Mr. Burbidge alludes to the old Crimson Velvet. This is by no means an old variety. I bought it from Mr. Salter the first year it was sent out ; perhaps it was twelve or fifteen years ago. It is quite distinct from King of Crimsons, which is evidently an older variety. I may be wrong, but I believe Tri- omphe du Nord and Julie Lagravi^re were both in cultivation before Mr. Fortune sent the Japanese varieties over to Mr. John Standish ; and King of Crimsons is not a Japanese, nor has it been certificated as one. The best of the reflexed blooms is Mr. Sharpe, a purplish crimson sort that Mr. Forsyth, late of Stoke Newington, used to exhibit well as a specimen. The specimen plants we have seen exhibited in recent years are not, I think, superior to what we have seen some years ago. The large speci¬ men from Mr. Bryant’s garden, of which a very good illustration was given in the Journal, was certainly a very wonderful produc¬ tion as regards size ; but I fancy if that and the others exhibited at Kingston had been put into competition with the six that gained the first prize at that Show the large specimens must have been in the second place only. I think it right to say this in justice to the grower of the six premier plants at the Show. — J. Douglas. [We did not engrave the plant in question as the best in the Show, but because it was the only good specimen of which a photograph was placed at our disposal.] FRUIT-GROWING ON CHALK SOILS. In these days of economy it may be doubted if many will be induced to follow the proposal of “ Et Ca3tera ” (page 525, last volume) in making borders for fruit trees of imported loam and with concreted bottoms, and neither is it at all necessary. Thin soils on chalk are no worse for fruit-growing than are thin soils on many other bad subsoils. A rusty, impenetrable, iron-bound, or a cold cankering clay is as bad, and, in some respects, even worse than chalk, yet good fruit is produced on both without the great expense advised. Fifty or a hundred years ago, before the advantages of root- lifting and pruning were understood, and when large trees, such as were considered indispensable a few years ago, it was the custom, and a necessary one too, to clear out subsoils, concrete the bottoms, and fill up with costly imported loam. In these days agriculture was at its best, now it is at its worst. Then labour was very cheap, now it is dear. Then gardeners looked upon such preparations as absolutely necessary, now we can grow healthy trees even on bad soils without such preparation. The writer of this has had no experience of chalk, but some on thin soils, in one instance with a very cold unhealthy clay subsoil that was poison to the trees when the roots entered it, and also on a very rusty subsoil that was even worse, and yet managed to grow trees in the best health. Your correspondent proposes an expensive method of — What ? It is well to clearly understand what. Well, it is neither more nor less than keeping the tree roots out of the subsoil, and making sure of their being always among the upper soil. That is all that i3 necessary ; but if the trees are periodically lifted, and any down¬ going roots laid near the surface, and a few inches of firm soil placed underneath, concreting will not be necessary. Indeed, concreting, plausible as it looks on paper, tends to produce an unhealthy soil in which no trees will long thrive unless very skilfully managed. More than one concreted border has been broken up because of the impossibility of keeping soil that is isolated from the subsoil in sweet condition. The concreting might be overcome, but where is the necessary loam to come from P Is the garden to be deepened by rendering barren a portion of the park or farm ? Those who live in the centre of a chalk, clay, or sand district have either to bear the expense of carting loam miles or removing the surface of what is near, and so spoiling the land thus robbed, and not one owner in a hundred will listen to either proposal. The writer remembers a case when the loam was brought by the canal ten miles for a Vine border, and although nothing was paid for the loam, its carriage cost more than the vinery after everybody was paid ! But how many could find loam even ten miles away, or indeed at all ? In the cases mentioned the estate on the clay and the other on the loam both belonged to the same owner, otherwise neither love nor money would have procured it. But, except in extreme cases, it is not necessary. By root- pruning and lifting the roots of trees can easily be kept among the surface soil. Under such circumstances trees of large size need not be looked for, but in the case of wall trees the returns need not be less. Nay, it ought to be more, for trees so started are always more fruitful than trees the roots of which live in a colder climate than those which are kept at the surface. And beyond that the finest fruit almost invariably comes from the lifted trees, simply because the roots being near the surface gather a sap that is warmer than deep-rooted trees can. Moreover, such can be fed better and better protected from drought by mulching, because one may be perfectly certain where the roots are. The subject deserves some consideration, but as we look at it all the advantages offered by such costly means as your correspon¬ dent proposes may be secured in most cases much more cheaply. — J. H. H. NEW PICOTEES. PiCOTEES of late years have not yielded many novelties, which must be owing to the older varieties being so fine that it is nearly impossible to surpass them. In red-edged Picotees I like Winifred Esther (Dodwell), a medium red edge, in style of Wm. Summers, which it very much resembles, but excels. Another variety, Elsie Grace, by the same raiser, has a fine petal — a light-edged red. No doubt it is a seedling from Mary. It wants shading, or else, like that variety, it flushes in the white. In purple Picotees I have seen three. Clara Penson (Willmer) is a light-edged purple in the style of Her Majesty, but certainly not so good as that variety, all the flowers of it grown both by Mr. Bower and myself being curled in the petal. This sort may do well enough in the south, but in my opinion it will never make a northern flower. Mrs. A. Chancellor (Turner), a very heavy purple, is a finely marked flower with plenty of petals. Another fine flower is Master Nichol (Schofield), a light-edged flower of the largest size, pure in the white, and a perfect wire edge. It is the best light-edged purple that I have seen with the broad petals of Mary, but more of them. In heavy-edged roses Lady Holmesdale (Schofield) is a splendid flower, and deservedly won premier at Wakefield Carnation and Picotee Show. It is a large flower, smooth on the edge, and free from spots or bars. I may say that there is no great stock of plants of the two latter varieties, as they were only 'partially distributed in 1881. — G. Rudd, JJnderdiffe, Bradford , THE PARSNIP. This year I had this crop in the vegetable garden proper — the Jersey and hollow-crowned varieties ; in my experimental vege¬ table garden principally the Maltese, and in our attached farm a considerable piece of The Student Parsnip. As I think this vegetable is not as much grown as its merits deserve I propose to give a few notes on its culture for culinary purposes generally, on the varieties, and the diseases to which 1 noticed them liable. One of my oldest recollections is a discussion of the relative merits of the Parsnip as a substitute for the Potato in Ireland as a general article of diet. Like the Artichoke for such a purpose, its merits were then over-estimated by its advocates and depreciated by others. But its culture in both countries — and I have per* sonally noted the fact — is much less than it should be. It is not so palatable as the Potato as an article of general diet during the winter and spring months, when it should be more generally used. But one of the reasons is that its cooking is very imperfectly un¬ derstood. I should mention, too, that it is a mistake to remove this vegetable from the soil until required ; it becomes more tender with age. But then its tendency to certain diseases, to be imme¬ diately referred to, must be kept at the same time in mind. During the past month we had here 10° of frost (22° Fahr.), and have just had 10 inches depth of snow. The Parsnip is one of the very few vegetables that will not suffer. But a supply should 30 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 11, 1883. have been housed previously and covered with clay or, better, sand in any open shed or corner. A French cook once said to me the Parsnip can be made much more digestible by thorough boil¬ ing, previous peeling, mashing, and removal of any fibres, but always using or serving up with gravy, or in its absence “ drawn butter.” The poorer classes, he said, during winter might advisedly use rendered and purified lard. He challenged competition from any other possible or probable vegetable during the months of December, January, and February, and felt inclined to add March. Everything considered, I did not feel disposed to dispute the point, and would like to hear the opinion of any of your correspondents as to its relative merits during those months for the artisan and labouring classes. That the extended use of vegetables is desirable, and especially during the early spring months, medical men are unanimous ; and that to those classes Cauliflower and Broccoli, or even good Cabbages, during those four months are, as a rule, an almost unattainable luxury seems equally unquestionable. Indeed, to my own knowledge in the thickly populated districts of the north of England out of gentlemen’s gardens at any time those crops are much more difficult to grow than the Parsnip. In the old and constantly cropped soil of our vegetable garden this crop fails to do well. Both the hollow-crowned and Jersey became diseased around the crown. I examined them very closely, but failed to find any insects in the rusty brown half-putrified portions affected, but this may have been owing to the injurious agent, if the larvae of some insect, having taken another form, which it would be likely to do, before November. The same varie¬ ties grown on our farm in new soil escaped altogether ; and though the ground was not so heavily manured nor so rich, the crop was much finer. But the field variety here that gave the finest — a magnificent-^crop was The Student Parsnip. This we sold by auction, and realised the sum of £50 per Irish acre, which, after paying all expenses, including good manure at 4s. per ton, would still leave a good profit. This variety, though very large and a heavy cropper, has two disadvantages with me — it is liable to “ fork,” or divide the main stem, and for general table use much inferior in quality to the Maltese. Personally I did not like Parsnips until I commenced using the last-named variety, and would with some confidence commend it, cooked French fashion, as indicated already, to the most fastidious of your readers, espe¬ cially from this time forward, when other vegetables are scarce. I have heard some gardeners complain of the Parsnip being sub¬ ject to a disease somewhat similar to that affecting the Potato, but here it is not known. A commoner source of injury to the Carrot as well as the Parsnip are the larvae of the click beetle and of the negro fly, and I regret to say I am unacquainted with any remedy. I would, however, hope that the recent severe frost and heavy snow, in addition to thorough cultivation, may be efficacious. — W. J. M., Clonmel. COVERING HERBACEOUS PLANTS. Borders of herbaceous plants are now very bare, and growers of these plants have in many instances cleared away the withered leaves and stems. In large public establishments such a course is really necessary, but in private gardens they may be left on the plants with advantage until spring. By this course we might preserve many of the plants we are continually losing ; because, by cutting away their natural protection, we expose the tender crowns to the many changes of an English winter, so detrimental at least to South European plants. Where the dead stems cannot be left I would advise that a few Spruce or Pine branches be placed neatly round them ; they are not at all unsightly, generally keeping their dark green colour until spring, and enlivening the otherwise rather dull monotony of bare rocks and emntv borders. In the north of Scotland branches are used to great advantage on parapet and other walls for covering climbers. They are tied round the plants with tar twine at the first approach of winter and left untouched until late in April, when the plants are found to be not only alive but quite healthy. By this means I have preserved plants which were killed at another place four miles distant and much less exposed. — Herbatia. Oldest Tree in the World— The oldest tree in the world, so far as anyone knows, is the Bo tree of the sacred city of Amarapoora in Burmah. It was planted 288 B.c., and is therefore now 2170 years old. Sir James Emerson Tennent gives reasons for believing that the tree is really of this wonderful age, and refers to historic docu¬ ments in which it is mentioned at different dates, as 182 A.D., 223 A.D., and so on to the present day. “ To it,” says Sir James, “ kings have even dedicated their dominions, in testimony of a belief that it is a branch of the identical Fig tree under which Buddha reclined at Urumelaya when he underwent his apotheosis.” Its leaves are carried away as streamers by pilgrims, but it is too sacred to touch with a knife, and therefore they are only gathered when they fall. The king Oak in Windsor Forest, England, is 1000 years old. — • ( Journal of Forestry.) NEW AND CERTIFICATED PLANTS OF 1882. MR. B. S. WILLIAMS, UPPER HOLLOWAY. The Victoria and Paradise Nurseries have, as usual, contributed largely to the new plants of the past year, many distinct and handsome novelties having been recorded in these pages as justly honoured with certificates by the Royal Horticultural, Royal Botanic, and other Societies. A brief review of the plants under their respective classes will, however, convey a better idea of the extent to which the horticultural world is annually indebted to Mr. Williams for improvements and introductions. Commencing with the great feature of the nurseries, the Orchids.— The large collections of these grown at Holloway have a deservedly extensive fame amongst orchidists, and it is equally well known that no care is spared to secure the best varie¬ ties and the most beautiful or distinct species possible. As a necessary result the collection is constantly increasing in interest and value. During the past year eight Orchids have been cer¬ tificated, comprising the following : — Cattleya gigas grandiflora, a superb variety of a handsome species, the flowers being, as the name implies, of great size, the broad sepals and petals deep rose, ^he lip white tipped with crimson. Coelogyne Massangeana, a distinct species with long spikes of yellow flowers, the brownish lip contrasting curiously with the sepals and petals. Lycaste Deppei punctatissima, a variety with flowers very thickly dotted, which is the chief distinguishing character, except that the lip is a lighter tint of yellow than the species. Odontoglossum Alex¬ andras virginale. — Varieties of this favourite Orchid are now be¬ coming quite numerous, but that named above deserves a place amongst the best. The flowers are finely formed ; the sepals and petals broad, pure crystalline white ; the lip also being white with a deep red spot, which renders the purity of Ihe other portion of the flower more noteworthy. Pescatorea Klabochorum. — Like the Bolleas and the Batemannias, some of the Pescatoreas are very attractive, and that now mentioned would form a fine contrast to Bollea coelestis. The flowers are large ; the sepals, petals, and lip of wax-like texture, pure white tipped with purple. Phalasnopsis Esmeralda. — Though without any pretensions to sharing the im¬ posing characters of such species as P. Schilleriana or P. grandi¬ flora, this is a distinct and pretty form of the small-flowered type, the crimson-purple flowers being borne on long slender spikes. Pleione prsecox. — This might at first glance be taken for P. Wal- lichiana, which it much resembles ; with the rosy sepals and petals, however, is associated a white lip spotted with yellow. Last, but by no means least, the handsome Zvgopetalum Clayi merits a word of praise. This is unquestionably the finest hybrid in the genus, and will probably in the future prove a close rival to Z. Mackayi, as it is a really useful and beautiful Orchid, free and vigorous in habit. The sepals and petals are barred with deep purplish brown, and large lip mottled with rich violet blue. An engraving well showing the markings of the flower and general habit of the plant was given in this Journal, page 319, vol. iv., April 20th, 1882. We recently saw a still darker and more beauti¬ ful form in the Holloway Nurseries, of which, doubtlessly, more will yet be heard. Amaryllises. — These plants have for many years been one of the leading features at Holloway, and the best of the varieties sent out thence are, it can be confidently said, unsurpassed in brightness of colour. Especial attention has been paid to improv¬ ing the colour, and the success attained is considerable ; the flowers also, though of moderate size, are of good form, very neat in outline, and are borne in fine heads. Two handsome varieties were honoured with certificates in 1882— namely, Dr. Masters, of brilliant searlet colour and superb form ; Mrs. B. S. Williams, a variety with pure white flowers, a fine companion for the preced¬ ing. Mrs. Garfield, which was certificated in 1881, deserves notice here, as it is still a novelty of great merit. It may be remembered that this is a hybrid between A. reticulata and A. Defiance, one of the Hippeastrum type, resembling the first in the foliage, which has a white band down the centre, and the flowers are of a rosy tint netted with a deeper hue, and like the other parent in size and shape. It is specially valuable, as it flowers in autumn, and is therefore doubtlessly a step towards a distinct type. Fine-foliage Plants. — Though the number of novelties in this class of plants is steadily decreasing, a few are still being added yearly, and as more difficulty is experienced in gaining certificates for such plants, the value of that recognition is pro- JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 11, 1883 ] portionately increased. A trio of new Crotons have been exhibited and found to merit this honorary award— namely, Baron Schroder, Bruce Findlay, and Princess of Waldeck. The first has oblong elliptical golden leaves, the midrib crimson, and the margin green. The second is one of the largest-leaved varieties in culti¬ vation, broad and long, mottled and blotched with yellow and green. The third also has broad leaves, but not so long ; bright 31 yellow edged with green. |Dieffenbachia majestica does not belie its name, for it is of noble appearance, having large rich green leaves blotched with a lighter hue. Phalangium elegantissimum will no doubt become a favourite decorative plant, its narrow arching Anthericum-like leaves being prettily marked with green and yellow longitudinal stripes. Ferns. — The collection of forms constitutes another of the Fig. 8.— Pteris serrulata cristata lacerata. most attractive portions of the Holloway nurseries, all the chief useful genera being largely represented, and with the excellent collection of Filmy Ferns occupy considerable space. First deserving of notice amongst the new forms is that represented in the woodcut, fig. 8, Pteris serrulata cristata lacerata, which is a fine addition to the useful Pterises already in cultivation. The fronds are about a foot long, drooping and feathery, the pinnae being much divided and crested, especially at the points of the fronds. Its graceful habit will greatly recommend it for deco¬ rative purposes. Of the certificated Ferns Adiantum Lathomi, a strong-growing form with large pinnules ; A. dolabriforme, an elegant species suggestive of A. lunulatum ; Davallia foenicu- I 32 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 11, 1883. lacea, a large-fronded graceful species ; and Pelltea DoniaDa, with long pinnate leaves, are the best, and all are worth a place wherever Ferns are appreciated. STRAWBERRY BANKS. At this season of the year alterations and improvements are being carried out in many gardens. One such that may well re¬ ceive attention now is a bank for early Strawberries. Sloping to the south at a sufficiently acute angle to derive full benefit from every ray of early summer sunshine, and planted with Black Prince if it is a small bank, but if large enough half should be given to Keen’s Seedling or any other favourite early sort. There is no question that ripe fruit may be had from a warm sheltered sunny bank a week or two before it is ready upon open flat spaces. Why, then, are such banks so few ? Making one in pro¬ portion to the size of any garden is no great affair, and if made in the right place it has certain advantages worthy of attention. Has your garden no wall, but only an unproductive hedge or fence surrounding it 1 Throw up a bank instead in the form of a ridge, plant the outer slope with shrubs and the inner slope with Strawberries, and you gain the triple advantage of early Straw¬ berries, increasing shelter, and an ornamental enclosure. Or have you a little frame ground wherein you make hotbeds of fermenting materials, which it is highly important should be screened from cold winds 1 Enclose it with a ridge, which may be covered with Strawberries, early sorts having the south slopes, intermediate sorts the west, and late ones the north and east, and you have a succession of crops which must prolong the season of this desirable fruit. Due care being taken to enrich the bank with a heavy dressing of manure, the earliest runners must be pegged in 3-inch pots of very rich soil, such as old leaf soil or an old hotbed, in order to secure enough strong plants for planting the bank as early in July as possible. Do this as well as you can ; see that the plants do not suffer from drought, but are kept growing freely till autumn, and you will be rewarded by a good crop of fine fruit next year ; but if the planting is not done till August it will be vain to hope for fruit till the second year. Let the plants be a foot apart every way the first year, and immediately after the fruit is picked hoe up every alternate plant so as to have the remainder 2 feet apart the second year. This is done to let every plant enjoy the full play of light and air on every side, for it is impossible to obtain very early fruit from plants crowded . thickly together, or when the fruit is much shaded by foliage. — A Kentish Gakdenek. AN AMATEUR’S HOLIDAY. The excellent observations of “ Excelsior ” on “ Gardening Past, Present, and Future,” in a recent issue of the Journal, have received the attention they deserve. His advice should be laid to heart by all who desire success in horticulture. In a few instance, I found gardens affected by the adverse times to which he alludes ; but other causes sometimes operate. Attached to the remains of one of our former royal residences is a garden with every nook of which I was familiar in boyhood. The whole was an appanage to an estate the possessor of which was endeared to all around him by every trait of a true gentleman. Under the gardener still in charge the gardens acquired a well-deserved name ; but subsequently others entered into possession. On my recent visit I found evil reports but too well founded. A fair estate so far despoiled, the mansion let to strangers, the gardens now shorn of their former attractions, and my friend, now grey in service and sad at heart, struggling to maintain in the gardens what appearance he could with the feeble aid of those who under the former rbgime would long ere now have been relieved from labour and care. On another estate a few miles removed I visited another garden equally well known, where still labours one to whom I was indebted for many a little treasure in those days. What a contrast ! So hale and hearty was my old friend I could scarcely believe that nearly twenty years had passed since last we stood together among his Dahlias and other favourites cherished still as then ; but in attachment to his aged master and his family, in the absence of all anxiety as to the present or the future, lay the grand elixir that had so defied time and kept him but little changed. EAST LOTHIAN. I know no part of Scotland where a few days can be more pleasantly spent than in the beautiful county of East Lothian. Places and objects of varied interest abound everywhere. Gosford with its fine grounds and ponds stocked with waterfowl ; the still splendid Binning Woods, old Tantallon, and the Goblin Hall of Yester, both familiar to readers of Sir Walter’s “ Marmion the venerable “Lamp of Lothian,” Hailes Castle, associated with Bothwell and Mary — turn where we will, beauty, history, or romance arrests us. At Whitting- hame, another residence of Bothwell, where part of the old tower and the original gateway are still to be seen, an immense Yew com¬ mands attention. It covers a space of about 100 feet in diameter, and must be nearly 00 feet in height. Under it, it is said, Bothwell, Morton, and others concocted the murder of the ill-starred Darnley. A specimen of the Eucalyptus is near by, which nearly perished in the winter of 1800, but has subsequently produced five or six stems, and has now attained considerable size. At Smeaton is. the finest specimen of Picea nobilis I have seen, about 70 feet in height. The pleasant county town, Haddington, boasts one of the oldest lodges of the Ancient Fraternity of Free Gardeners in the country. Age has certainly not brought debility. More enthusiastic horticulturists than the present worthy brethren it would not be easy to find. The district abounds in fine gardens, although one or more suffer at present from the crippled resources to which “ Excelsior ” refers. These deserve more than this passing notice. In one or two, notably at Gilmerton and Stevenson, I found such crops of Apples and Pears as have been very rare this season. Gil¬ merton is well known for its hardy fruits, Mr. Brunton invariably coming to the front with these and others at our leading shows. At Stevenson I have never missed first-class bedding, and Mr. McLean’s work in this and in ribboning was the best I met throughout my ramble. But what pleased me most perhaps were his mixed borders. In these the choicer herbaceous plants were judiciously interspersed with Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, Sweet Williams, and Pinks, the result being one of the most pleasing combinations I have seen. My herbaceous borders have as yet failed to please me. I obtained many plants that turned out quite unsuitable to my object. Next follows turning these out, and with Mr. McLean’s borders as a model I may by-and-by come nearer to my ideal. His Tomatoes in pots were wonderful in number and size of fruit. His stuffed cat, now looking as if it deserved release from duty, he still holds to be a sufficient terror to birds. Tyninghame is pretty well known to your readers. I saw enough of the Phloxes and the fine herbaceous borders to make me regret that I had not called earlier so as to see them at their best. In no other part of the country have I seen such masses of Tritoma Uvaria. Even the cottages of the farm servants on the way towards Haddington were gleaming with the “ Eed-hot Poker.” I commend East Lothian to the attention of those who, interested in horticulture, have not yet made acquaintance with it. AEDOCH. In another county, Perthshire, the famous Roman camp at Ardoch attracts many visitors annually. I have no doubt that such of your readers as have been there know that immediately adjoining can be seen a garden of moderate size but of high excellence. Among other things the mention of Dahlias and Hollyhocks has for years to my mind suggested Ardoch, where Mr. Dingwall grows these, as he does whatever he attempts, very satisfactorily. He still clings to the latter with a devotion that late difficulties cannot overcome. About a mile to the west lies Fedall, where in little over three years part of a moor has been converted into a garden well worth seeing now when yet incomplete. The proprietor, Mr. Stewart, is one of “ Excel¬ sior’s” “ liberal-minded gentlemen who do not grudge the expense,” and the abilities of Mr. Dingwall have therefore had full scope. I daresay it is rare to find two brothers in charge so closely adjoining ; it is not, I hope, so rare to find between two gardeners a friendly difference as to which serves the best employer. The extensive houses at Fedall seem most complete. The divisions between these are of thick glass. Of this Mr. Dingwall approves most highly, and considers that the ripening of the wood of Peaches, Nectarines, &c., trained against these glass partitions is of itself enough to justify the extra outlay of about one-third in their erection. I was at once on entering the vineries with their abundant crops struck with the sweetness and freshness of the atmosphere. I observed that the hot- water pipes entered through open squares of brick, by which air heated in passing over the flues was freely flowing, while the lights in every house were to be seen, the fires being at a little distance and out of sight. The situation of Fedall is an exposed one, and some time must elapse before trees will afford their share of protection now so far secured by high and substantial walls. ROSES AT DUNKELD. I embraced an opportunity of visiting Dunkeld. Seldom have I enjoyed two hours as I did those spent with Mr. Gray among his Roses. In “ Roses in the Perthshire Highlands ” in last “ Rosarians’ Year Book ” he described, as no one else could, how he has responded to the question “ Hoo can ye expek to keep a coo on a presipis ? ” not indeed by attempting to keep the “ coo ” there, but by converting that very precipice into a unique and beautiful Rose garden. In that article the confessed disciple of the Rev. Canon Hole certainly “ revelled in refuse and danced on his dunghill with delight.” The outcome of his labours, of his “ dainty viands,” his “ Dunkeld whisky,” his “ Highland blankets,” is there to see in such a rosery as could be looked for only from an enthusiasm that could inspire that article, and conceive and compass the subject of it. At the close Mr. Gray has indicated pretty accurately “Roses that are not trumps ” with a good many as well as himself, and I trust he will let us know some others that he has tested fairly and found to be not winning cards in Scotland. His opinions on this point will, I presume to say, be corroborated by others, and would be useful to young amateur rosarians in the north. But few are privileged to gather experience from such a collection as his, embracing then two thousand Perpetuals and five hundred Teas, which number is now January 11, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 33 doubled in nearly the same proportion. The last addition at least, if I mistake not, are worked chiefly on the seedling Briar. With his staff of a woman and a boy Mr. Gray has his work provided. The Roses of Eastferry are not by any means its only attractions, and the extreme conrtesy of its master to a comparative stranger demands this acknowledgment at his hands. And I saw Drumlanrig. To that wonderful place I may after¬ wards have the temerity to revert. Meanwhile your correspondent “ P. U.” recalls a visit to another place, the Ormeau Park, Belfast. It is seldom in my experience that we see beds of Verbenas now : there this season they were beautiful, and these were all from seed. I considered several of them well worth preserving; but the Curator, Mr. Dickson, informed me that he never fails to secure as good, and he has nearly discarded them. I found that he also relied for a white and a blue Viola upon two of his own raising. They were, perhaps, the most effective I have seen, the white being especially fine, and both contrasted very favourably with others of their colour. The Park is a fine one, and should not be omitted by visitors to Belfast. I will next beg leave to notice one or two of our nurseries in the north, some of which were new to me, and may be interesting to your readers. — A Northern Amateur. ALPINE AND BORDER FAVOURITES. ERIGERONS. E. aurantiacus. — This is one of Dr. Regel’s introductions from Eastern Asia, having but recently found its way into our gardens. It is a striking little plant, and quite hardy. The flowers are soli¬ tary, on stalks from 4 to 9 inches high, bright orange-red ; in fact, just the same colour as those of the old Hawkweed (Hieracium aurantiacum), but twice the size. This colour is scarce in the Erigerons, and it is on this account very desirable. It is a rock plant, enjoying a warm well-drained position, flowering early in ,e.y.ear’ an<^ a?ain during the autumn. It is easily increased by division of the root, and the seedlings are readily raised in a cold frame ; thus stock may be quickly secured. E. pMladelphicus. — Although with flowers not so large as many of the others, this is one of the best, owing to its very floriferous habit. It flowers during the greater portion of the year, until checked by frost. It grows from 12 to 18 inches high, with loose cymes of pink flowers, being very pleasing. Mr. Wollev Dod re¬ gards this as one of the best border plants ; or it may be planted on the rockery. It increases rapidly, and is quite hardy. E. speciosus (Stenactis speciosa) is a much older inhabitant of our gardens, and is very useful, flowering during June, July, and August most freely, good masses having a very striking effect. As all lovers of these plants know, the flowers are about 2 inches across, with blue-purple rays and yellow disks — most useful and decorative. The width of the ray florets vary in different plants (the wider they are, of course, the better), consequently we some¬ times see a form called superba, which has wider rays, and is really better than the typical form. This grows from 18 to 24 inches high ; in warm light soils it does not reach even the lesser height. E. alpinus grows from 6 to 9 inches high, with small light purple flowers. E. glabcllus is a pretty border or rock species growing about .9 inches high, producing freely purple flowers about the size of a shilling. E. mucronatus, generally known as Vittadenia triloba, is a pretty species, producing small Daisy-like flowers, white tinged with pink, in great abundance all through the late spring and summer months, until checked by frost. As a rock plant it is much to be desired, for, although not very showy, it is extremely pretty. AUBRIETIAS. Among the many Aubrietias now known perhaps none is more showy than A. Hendersoni. It is flowering very freely this autumn, the flowers being large, bright purple, and very freely produced. A. grseca superba is also an excellent variety, flowering very pro¬ fusely, but the colour is not so deep as that of the last. A. vio- lacea, anew kind, promises to be a very striking addition. I have just seen a few flowers, and they were deep violet-purple ; in fact, quite distinct from any known to me. If this character is con¬ stant it will certainly be a very valuable addition to our spring- flowering plants. MULE PINKS. The Mule Pinks (Dianthus hybridus) are very useful and showy plants, sadly too much neglected by our gardeners. The reason of this is difficult to understand, as they are very easily grown, and well repay in richly coloured flowers for any labour bestowed upon them. I should strongly urge all lovers of hardy flowers to secure a few and give them a trial. Among those known to myself as excellent varieties are the following : — Napoleon III. — Very floriferous and compact, producing deep crimson flowers about the size of a florin, very double and finely fringed, with a slight fragrance, on stiff slender stalks. It is a most valuable flower for bouquet work, the size and colour being especially suited for the purpose. It has a str#ng propensity to flower itself to death. Two batches of plants should be kept, one for flowering and the other for securing cuttings from, which root freely in a cold frame. Marie Pere. — Also a very free-flowering kind, with pure white double flowers about the same size as the last, produced in clusters, and it is a most persistent bloomer and highly serviceable. Miss Paterson is a very vigorous grower, producing large trusses of double crimson-pink flowers in abundance. Tom Thumb is a very dwarf kind with brilliant scarlet flowers on stiff erect stems and very pretty. We rarely see this variety, and yet it is one of the handsomest border plants. Others might be mentioned, but the above represent the shades of colour, and they possess good constitutions. They are readily increased by cuttings, which root freely under a handlight in a cold frame. CORONILLA IBERICA. This is a very showy and useful plant, and which one but rarely sees, although it has been known as an inhabitant of our gardens for a considerable period. It is dwarf and creeping, with tri¬ foliate leaves, and numerous racemes of bright golden-yellow flowers produced throughout the summer months up to the present time. I know of no place where it thrives so well as at the Rev. Ewbank’s of Ryde ; but of course soil and climate there are remarkable. C. raria is a first-rate plant where it can enjoy unlimited room, as it rambles over a large space of ground, producing an immense quantity of flowers throughout the spring and summer months, of a delicate pink and white colour. If planted in a hot and dry position on the rockery it does not ramble so much, and the colour of the flowers is rather deeper. It is a useful plant for the wild garden or for positions where space is no object. — X. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. January 9th. Primulas and Cyclamens were shown in strong force by several firms, and indeed these plants formed the chief portion of the display. Both Committees were largely represented, but their duties were light. Fruit Committee. — Harry J. Veitch, Esq., in the chair, and the following members were present : — Messrs. Phillip Crowley, John Barnett, Arthur W. Sutton, J. Woodbridge, R. D. Blackmore, H. Howcroft, G. Bunyard, G. Goldsmith, Sidney Ford, Z. Stevens, John E. Lane, J. Willard, and Harrison Weir. Fine samples of Apple Calville Blanche were shown by Mr. Z. Stevens, The Gardens, Trent- ham Hall, Staffordshire ; they had been grown in pots in an orchard house. The Apples were large and of a fine clear yellow colour. A cultural commendation was awarded. Mr. Stevens also sent samples of Duke of Buccleuch, and Black Hamburgh, and Madresfield Court Grapes, the first-named being in fine condition. Mr. Sidney Ford, Leonardslee, Horsham, was awarded a vote of thanks for samples of Gros Colman from Vines grafted on Black Prince and Alicante, also of Mrs. Pince on Royal Vineyard, and Alicante on Raisin de Calabre. Some good fruits of Pear Josephine de Malines were also sent. Messrs. Downie & Laird and Mr. Dunn of Dalkeith sent samples of John Downie Grape, but they were found to be different, and further specimens were desired. A vote of thanks was accorded to Mr. J. Cauchoix, Orleans, France, for fine fruits of Doyenn6 d’Hiver (Easter Beurrh). The six fruits weighed 5 lbs. 7 ozs. A cultural commendation was awarded to Mr. G. R. Allis, gardener to J. Shuttleworth, Esq., Old Warden, Biggleswade, for three fine bunches of Black Alicante Grapes in good condition and well coloured, weighing about 8 lbs. A cultural commendation was awarded to Mr. Miles, gardener to Lord Carrington, Wycombe Abbey, for two handsome fruits of Lord Carrington Pine Apple, large anp well ripened. Several varieties of Red Celery were sent from Chis¬ wick, comprising Williams’ Matchless, Big Ben, and Winchester. Floral Committee. — G. F. Wilson, Esq., in the chair. The following members were present : — Rev. G. Henslow, and Messrs. T. Moore, J. Laing, W. Bealby, Shirley Hibberd, J. Douglas, H. N. Ridley, G. Duffield, W. B. Kellock, H. Cannell, J. Dominy, J. Hudson, C. Green, J. James, H. Ballantine, and J. Wills. A silver medal was awarded to Messrs. James Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, for a collection of exceedingly well-grown Cyclamens, fine vigorous specimens in 32 and 24-size pots, the foliage strong and the flowers of great size with broad petals. White, crimson, purple, with rose and white, were admirably represented. Two plants of the new Cattleya labiata Percivaliana were shown in flower by Mr. Salter, gardener to J. Southgate, Esq., Selborne, Streatham, and Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway. The flowers are of moderate size, with pale purple sepals and petals, the lip very rich crimson streaked with deep orange in the throat, the markings being much more prominent mMr. Williams’ plant. Apparently the chief recommendation of the plant is the season at which it flowers. 34 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 11, 1883. Mr. B. S. Williams was awarded a silver medal for an extensive and beautiful group of Cyclamens and Primulas, the former predominat¬ ing and representing a great variety of rich and pure colours, the flowers large, compact, but vigorous. Primula palmata alba was notable for its dwarf habit and large well-formed flowers. Messrs. James Dickson ife Sons, Newton Nurseries, Chester, sent four plants of an extremely dwarf Primula named floribunda, which is not more than 4 inches high, and bears heads of diminutive bright yellow flowers, the lobes round and spreading. A cultural commendation was awarded to Mr. J. King, Aylesbury, for strong plants of Primula Mont Blanc, with large flowers, white faintly tinged with pink. G. F. Wilson, Esq., Heatherbank, Weybridge, sent flowers of Prim¬ roses, crimson, purple, and yellow. Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, exhibited a collection of Pri¬ mulas, amongst which a delicate pale pink variety named Princess of Wales, which has large flowers in dense heads. Other good forms were The Queen, white tinged with pink, large and fringed ; Swanley Red, very deep ; Swanley White, pure ; and several unnamed forms. Wallflowers, Cineraria cruenta, and Primrose Harbinger were also much admired. A cultural commendation was awarded to Mr. C. G-reen, gardener to Sir G-. Macleay, Pendell Court, Bletchingley, for flowers and leaves of Dahlia arborea, a species in the style of D. imperialis ; tall, frequently 9 feet high, with large pinnate leaves and rosy purple flowers, some with central tubular florets coloured like the ray flori t!. Flowers of Nardosmia (Tussilago) fragrans were also sent. A cultural commendation was also awarded to Mr. F. Miller, gardener to J. T. Friend, Esq., Northdown, Margate, for a branch of richly coloured Bougainvillea spectabilis flowers, and some Camellia blooms. Mr. Hughes, gardener to E. A. Wood, Esq., St. Nicholas House, Scarborough, sent plants of some peculiar single and double Primulas of a yellowish tinge, and some double whites, which were much better. Messrs. J. Carter & Co., High Holborn, were awarded a bronze medal, for a fine collection of Primulas, comprising the following varieties : — Holborn Gem, the noted blue variety ; Rosy Morn, large and rich rose ; Magenta Queen, deep colour, large ; Mauve Queen, fine lilac hue; White Queen, large and handsome; Elaine, a Fern¬ leaved white; Covent Garden Favourite, rosy crimson, handsome; Golden Leaf, a form with yellow foliage ; and Hederifolia, with very sharply lobed leaves, and somewhat like an Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ gonium. A large collection of Primulas was sent from Chiswick, a number of good and distinct varieties. The best were Chiswick Red Improved, very deep colour ; lilacina, delicate ; cristata nana, with crisped leaves ; cuprea, of a peculiar rosy red tint ; rubra violacea, very rich colour ; and a white variety of great beauty, the blooms large and well formed. Specimens of the free-flowering Echeveria retusa were also sent. First-class certificates were awarded to the following plants : — Azalea Duchess of Albany (Todman). — Certificated as a decorative plant. This was described as a hybrid China Azalea, and bears pure white flowers of moderate size, with rounded petals, and they are produced very freely at this season. Odontoglossum mad^ense var. giganteum. — This very fine variety was exhibited by W. Yanner, Esq., Camden Wood, Chislehurst. It has narrow sepals and petals, the former being larger and more tapering ; both are white blotched with claret purple at the base, the triangular lip being white at the point and bright yellow at the base. Scientific Committee. — Mr. G. F. Wilson in the chair. Rhododendrons. — Mr. Mangles exhibited a three-year-old seedling of R. nobile, a form of R. arboreum, from an elevation of only 6000 feet in Ceylon, and which lately withstood 19° of frost ; while R. arboreum proper, a hybrid of the last, R. cetosum from 13 to 16,000 feet, and R. anthopogon were all more or less injured, although coming from a much higher elevation. Magnolia Campbelli. — He mentioned on the authority of Mr. Gum- bleton that this species had flowered in Europe, as well as that the tree at Mr. Crawford’s gardens near Cork has at the present moment thirty buds. Ozonium auricomum . — Dr. Masters exhibited a specimen of this fungus from a Sycamore. Mr. W. G. Smith remarked that he had observed the same fungus on wood in a cellar. Dahlia arborea. — Mr. Green forwarded a branch bearing single as well as Anemone-flowered forms. There appeared to be some doubt as to its specific identity, as it has never been known to flower before. It was referred to Dr. Masters to report upon. Pines. — Dr. Masters also showed specimens of Pinus contorta re¬ markable for its twisted branches, Pinus Bolanderi, P. Murravana — all these from California and supposed to be the same, but the” hypo¬ dermic cells clearly show that they are specifically distinct. Melon Grown under Electric Light. — A small green smooth-skinned Melon sent from Dr. Siemens’ garden. It pioved very watery and sugarless. Dr. Masters will inquire and report on the exact conditions of its growth. Mycelium on Alum. — Mr. W. G. Smith exhibited a vessel full of solution of alum in which a fungus was growing. On transferring it to a syrup it proved to be the Vinegar Plant, or Penicillum crustaceum. Lapageria rosea. — Mr. Boscawen sent a fine spray of this plant, which was grown out of doors in Cornwall, as well as flowers of a species of Colchicum from Cyprus. Lecture. — The Rev. G. Henslow called“attention to various Pri¬ mulas exhibited, which showed different types of foliage as well as of blossoms. The typical form of leaf is palmate, resembling the palm of the hand. Of this Messrs. Carter exhibited a golden-leaved variety which is now permanent, having originated as a single seedling from Vesuvius. A second variety is the Ivy-leaved form, which ap¬ peared suddenly in different gardens, a peculiar form having no minor indentations in the margin. A third variety is the crisped- edged leaf. This form, like curled Cabbage and Parsley, is due to a kind of hypertrophy or excess of growth. It is interesting to note that this is accompanied by very poor flowers, but after a few years the curled habit will doubtless become fixed, when the blossoms can be improved by crossing. Another remarkable fact connected with this sport, as with some others, is their sudden appearance simul¬ taneously in different localities, and without a common origin. It was observed several years ago that double Petunias appeared on the continent and in England for the first time simultaneously. What the meteorological conditions may be to give rise to this curious coincidence are as yet unknown. The second type of foliage is the Fern-leaved, in which the apex has grown out so that the form is elongated. These two types of foliage run through other plants and give rise to the corresponding types of “ compound ” leaves, such as the digitate of the Horse Chestnut and the pinnate of the Ash. Similarly Palms are mainly divided into fan-shaped and feather¬ shaped leaves, according as the midrib is arrested or elongated. With regard to the flowers, the diversity in the tints of red is almost infinite, but curious results follow from crossing. Thus, two whites crossed may give a deep red. A mauve (Holborn Gem) self- fertilised gave half its seedlings white, the other half mauve, or the so-called blue. Such diversities are well known in other plants be¬ sides Primroses ; thus, Mr. Veitch found that an orange Rhododen¬ dron crossed by a white one gave white, pink, and yellow-flowered seedlings. The same thing occurred in Abutilons. HISTORICAL JOTTINGS ON VEGETABLES.— 1. The aboriginal inhabitants of Britain appear to have done little or nothing in the way of plant-culture with any object. It was after the arrival of the Romans that the subjugated Britons began eventually to follow the fashions of Italy, and those who could formed flower gardens and orchards ; kitchen gardens perhaps, one has to add, since the Romans were “ no great shakes ” at the cultivation of vegetables for culinary purposes. In the matter of fruits we all know our great indebtedness to them. They introduced new species, they also improved upon others that were growing wild in our extensive forests. The Fig, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, Apricot, Peach, Chestnut, and Walnut are only a part of the fruits the Romans have been credited with, but they did not add much, if anything, to the English kitchen garden. Demand creates supply, as w e are aware, and the Roman fashions in regard to meals, even during their grandest days, were rather peculiar. De Quincey has proved beyond question that their jentacvlum and prandium. translated by us a3 “ breakfast ” and “ dinner,” were meals of a shadowy kind — a slice of bread or a biscuit, eaten anywhere, flavoured by a Fig, a Date, or an Olive. The ccena or supper was the sole substantial meal, consisting of several courses. One course was all fish usually, another all fruits, but vegetables did not occupy a place of importance in any. Some dishes of broth or stews were, however, flavoured with herbs, and the vigorous stomachs of the Romans relished Onions, Leeks, and Garlic. In two of these our taste is, on the whole, not at all in sympathy with theirs. During the unsettled times when Dane and Saxon contended for the mastery gardening was not much attended to in England. We know that many plants which had been introduced by the Romans were lost sight of. The preponderating population — the Anglo-Saxon race — had no particular genius in this direction, and it was not till after the Conquest that the London citizens appear to have turned their attention to the raising of vegetables for the table. That city, from its position as the chief resort of visitors and the abode of the Court, was sure to take the lead in all matters of progress. Undoubtedly the English got some valuable hints from over the Channel, nor should we be reluctant to acknowledge our early horticultural obligations to our French neighbours. We have not failed to make them returns ; indeed, at one time it was remarkable how eagerly every English metnod in gardening was examined and acted upon by the French gentry. Subsequent to the Conquest a great impulse was given to all branches of gardening by the Crusades, which opened up more frequent communications between the countries of Europe and parts of Asia. Then, again, the palmers and pilgrims in their peregrinations often carried from one monastery to another the seeds or branches of some plant that was a novelty, which the monks would carefully cultivate in their small but well-tended plots. There exists in the London chronicles an old petition of the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 11, 1883. ] 35 date of 1345, addressed by the gardeners of various nobles, bishops, and merchants to the Lord Mayor, their complaint being that they were no longer allowed to take up their accustomed standing in the front of St. Austin's Church, where they used to vend vegetables, fruit, and herbs. They had been interfered with by the ecclesiastics on account of the noise they made, and the Mayor allotted them another place ; but he could not re-instate them as they desired. It is a curious fact that these personages five centuries ago could grow more than they required for their own households. There could not, however, have been much variety of vegetables, probably some sort of Kale and pulse — i.e., Peas and Beans. Perhaps it was the increasing smokiness of the centre of the metropolis that led a number of citizens some few years afterwards to take a tract of land near the City Road, which they formed into garden plots for their convenience and recreation. For a long period the place retained the name of the “City Gardens.” The early “ professional ” traders in vegetables, it is supposed, grew what they sold along the streets in their small gardens about Golden Lane and neighbourhood, now densely populated ; also they offered fruit, Apples prominently, whence they came to be called “ costard-mongers.” The herb-women, or herb-wives, seem occasionally to have carried vegetables. As the population of London increased the farmers began to grow these for the market in the fields towards Hoxton, about Whitechapel and Shoreditch, north and east of the city. The first ground on the west side that was broken for gardening purposes, in order to raise a variety of choice vegetables, was in the district of the “ Neat houses ” be¬ tween Millbank and Chelsea, where the moist rich soil made it particularly suitable. But this was not till about the middle of the seventeenth century, when more esculents had been introduced. Strype refers to the quantities of Asparagus, Artichokes, Cauli¬ flowers, and “ Musmelons ” grown on the part of the Thames bank. These and other plants came into England during the times of the Tudors, principally owing to those inhabitants of Flanders and the Low Countries who were driven from their homes by persecution. In 1530 and years following parties of these emigrants worked their way across Kent to the suburbs of London, and they had market gardens on its south side at Vaux- hall, Battersea, ani Bermondsey. A fresh impulse was given to gardening during the domestic peace that followed the Restoration, and more new vegetables were introduced. Yet it was not until nearly the close of the century that our forefathers came to regard vegetables as a lead¬ ing item in their daily food, and most private residences of any importance bad a kitchen as well as a fruit and flower garden. Then vegetables ceased to be imported from Holland and France, partly from the interruption to trade by war, and partly from the cheapening of home produce, owing to the increase in market gardens near London and elsewhere. The culture of vegetables for profit was, I should consider, at its best during the reign of good old George III. — J. R. S. C. MICROCACRYS TETRAGONA. Tasmania is not rich in Conifers, though examples of several genera unknown or rare in the northern hemisphere occur in the island, such as Arthrotaxis, Fitzroya, Dacrydium, Bodocarpus, and Microcachrys ; but few of these are confined to that country, some being common both to New Zealand and Australia. Dacrydium Franklini, the Huon Pine, is a well-known inhabitant of Tas¬ mania, but the plant of which a spray is shown in the woodcut (fig. 9) is rare in its native country, and also rare in cultivation in England. It is, however, one of the most remarkable of the Conifers found at the Antipodes, and indeed in the whole family. The great peculiarity of the plant is that the female cones are of a semi-transparent texture, fleshy, and most brilliantly coloured, being of a rich red hue that in sunlight is very striking. These cones, though small, are borne in considerable numbers on short branchlets, and, the main branches being of a decumbent or droop¬ ing habit, the plant has a graceful and really beautiful effect grown in a pot with the main stem secured to a stake. It is found grow¬ ing on the western mountains of Tasmania, where it forms a low straggling bush, the branches being four-angled, as the specific name indicates, the leaves small and closely pressed to the stem. It was introduced to Kew about 1862 by W. Archer, Esq., of Cheshunt, and several plants in the temperate house there succeed very well and produce their attractive cones very freely. Several Conifers produce coloured fruits, but in most cases it is a disk, aril, or some appendage that is so coloured, and not a true cone, as with the Microcacrys. For instance, the fleshy aril of the common Yew is well known, and in the genus Podocarpus several similar examples occur, one of the most noteworthy being P. neriifolia, the Oleander-leaved Podocarp. The fruit of this species has a large fleshy globular or ovoid bright red disk about half an inch long, upon the top of which is seated the seed, a true fruit about the size of a large pea, but more egg-shaped and Fig. 9.— Microcacrys tetragona. bright green, forming a most peculiar contrast with the richly coloured disk. — L. C. EXPERIMENTS WITH POTATOES. In a late number of the Journal I praised the Champion, Skerry, and Magnum Bonum Potatoes as prolific and good keepers. In confirmation of the same I enclose you a clipping from the Belfast Newsletter which appeared some time after I wrote my paper, and possibly the report may interest your many readers, horticultural and agricultural. — Comber, Co. Down. At a recent meeting of the Chemico-Agricultural Society of Ulster Mr. Davidson read the following report on “ Experiments on the Potato Crop : ” — In presenting the report of the experiments conducted on the Potato crop at Brookfield Agricultural School, in order to prevent miscalculations by any portion of the public inter¬ ested in such experiments, I may be permitted to state that all possibilities of waste are excluded from these calculations, that an acre means every inch of land in an acre, and that no allowance is made for the necessary waste of culture, fences, or any other sources of deficiency, and that no part of the crop is considered beneath the care of calculation. A Potato the eighth of an ounce in weight, ’36 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 11 , 1883. although diseased, is carefully taken into consideration in the calcu¬ lation of results. These experiments have been made on the growth of eight different kinds of Potatoes and under seven different conditions of soil, drain¬ age, and manures, and upon twenty-three experimental plots, of the common kinds of Potatoes, Champions, Skerries, and Magnum Bonums, grown under ordinary conditions in the same kind of soil — a sandy loam with sandy subsoil. The Champions yielded 3 tons 18 cwt. 3 qrs. of good table Potatoes, 4 tons 5 cwt. 1 qr. 7 lbs. of inferior quality, and 9 cwt. 3 qrs. 10 lbs. of diseased tubers, making a total of 8 tons 13 cwt. 3 qrs. 17 tbs. per acre. Skerries yielded 4 tons 16 cwt. 1 qr. of good table Potatoes, and 1 ton 6 cwt. 1 qr. of inferior quality, making a total of 6 tons 2 cwt. 2 qrs. per acre. Magnum Bonum 6 tons 4 cwt. 2 qrs. 21 lbs. suitable for table use, and 2 tons. 12 cwt. 2 qrs. of inferior quality, being a total of 8 tons 17 cwt. 0 qrs. 21 lbs. per acre. The per-centage of diseased tubers in the Skerry and Magnum Bonum was so exceedingly small that it it not given, that of the Champions is considerable. The advantage of changing seed is shown by the following : — Skerry seed, grown on the same farm for several years, yielded per acre 6 tons 17 cwt. 3 qrs. 7 lbs. ; but new seed on the same ground yields 7 tons 10 cwt. 3 qrs. 21 lbs. per acre ; and the increase of quality was exactly in the same proportion. The advantage of well-drained land over undrained has been very strikingly shown this year. Skerries, new seed, in undrained land yielded 7 tons 10 cwt. 3 qrs. 21 lbs., but in drained soil yielded 8 tons 17 cwt. 21 lbs. per acre. The Champions under similar con¬ ditions in undrained land yielded 6 tons 11 cwt. 1 qr., but in drained soil 'the yield was 8 tons 13 cwt. 3 qrs. 17 lbs. per acre. The Magnum Bonum presents even a greater contrast. In undrained soil there was a yield of 4 tons 11 cwt. 3 qrs. 14 lbs., but in drained soil it was 8 tons 17 cwt. 21 lbs. per acre. The difference in quality cannot be well shown in figures, but of picked Potatoes suitable for market the undrained land yielded only 2 tons 12 cwt. 2 qrs., but the drained soil yielded 6 tons 4 cwt. 2 qrs. 21 lbs. It should be also observed that in undrained land the diseased tubers form a per¬ centage of the refuse of all the lands ; even of Magnum Bonum there were 6 cwt. 2 qrs. 7 lbs. per acre of diseased Potatoes. But of all the conditions which influence, the production of crops over which the farmer has control the action of manure appears the greatest. In a portion of land where the crop was grown with¬ out manure there was a yield of 3 tons 5 cwt. 2 qrs. 14 lbs. per acre, and in the same soil with the ordinary manure (about 25 tons per acre) the yield was 6 tons 17 cwt. 3 qrs. 7 lbs. ; but with extra manure at the rate of 56 tons well-rotted farmyard manure the yield was 15 tons 8 cwt. 1 qr. 21 lbs. per acre, but with the same heavy manuring on undrained soil the yield was much less — 8 tons 10 cwt. 2 qrs. 14 lbs. per acre. Of new kinds reared by Mr. Torbitt, and the seed supplied for these experiments by Mr. A. Green, Trumra, a round blue Potato like the Skerry, and named New Skerry, yielded 7 tons 17 cwt. 2 qrs. of good table Potatoes, and 2 tons 19 cwt. 0 qrs. 7 lbs. of small ones, making a total of 10 tons 16 cwt. 2 qrs. 7 lbs. per acre. This is a very superior Potato in every respect, and free from disease. A white Potato named Tenant Right, elongated, with a rather uneven surface, hut good to eat, yielded 12 tons 9 cwt. 1 qr. 14 lbs. per acre, of which 9 to 10 cwt. were suitable for table use, but in un¬ drained ground the yield was under two-thirds of this. A very nice white Potato, round-shaped, remarkably free from disease or waste, and named Gladstone, yielded 7 tons 17 cwt. 2 qrs., and of these 6 tons 4 cwt. 2 qrs. were fit for table use ; and an unnamed Potato yielded 8 tons 10 cwt. 2 qrs. 14 lbs. per acre, but being subject to disease would not be worth preserving. The experiments made to test the value of Mr. J. L. Jensen’s re¬ commendation of heavy covering as a protection against disease has not confirmed his anticipations. In July, when the disease appeared first on the leaves, I selected a few perches in the ordinary crop, towards the middle of a field, and got our gardener to turn the haulms carefully towards the east, and on the west side of the drill to put on a covering of between 6 and 8 inches of mould, leaving that side of the drill perfectly clear of stalks, and the soil at an angle of about 45° so as to protect it against rain. On the 26th of October I had them raised, and found 42105 per cent, diseased tubers, and in a drill alongside of them, which had received the ordinary culture, I found only 33 per cent, of diseased tubers, or a difference of 7 per cent, against the protected Potatoes. The soil is heavy, drained, and rich on which the experiment was conducted. To summarise these results, we find the advantage of the Potato crop of this year in drained land over undrained, all else being equal, is from 16 to 94 per cent., according to the kind of Potato grown, and the difference between a light and heavy soil is almost in the same proportion. The advantage of changing seed is at least 11 per cent., but the application of an increased quantity of manure gives a return so far beyond expectation that, without actual experiment, it appears incredible. It would not be just to draw any decided opinion . from these limited experiments on the merits of Mr. Jensen’s protective covering against the Potato disease; but from other experiments and microscopical examinations, with the object of tracing the origin and progress of the disease, extending over several years, I am of opinion that, whether there be a possible re¬ medy or not, it is yet undiscovered. But that which promises most practical advantage to agriculture is the successive introduction of new kinds of Potatoes carefully selected by practical farmers under scientific guidance ; and as the necessity must be continuous and the expense is considerable, Government assistance should be offered to such agricultural associations as by past gratuitous labours have proved their ability to conduct such work, as well as their zeal for the furtherance of agricultural prosperity. PROF. MEEHAN ON EVOLUTION. At the meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of Science at Montreal last year Prof. Thomas Meehan, in response to the invitation extended him at the Cincinnati meeting to address the Biological Section, spoke on variations in nature, and their bear¬ ing on the doctrine of evolution, and the theory of natural selec¬ tion. He premised that the doctrine of natural selection, as pro¬ pounded by Mr. Darwin, could not be controverted in so far as the continual dropping-out of intermediate forms was concerned, which left the extremes without connections, and gave us the idea of dis¬ tinct species. He thought there were some weaknesses in Mr. Darwin’s method of advocating his views, but these removed only left Mr. Darwin’s position stronger than he himself perceived. He then proceeded to show that variations in nature were much greater than Mr. Darwin evidently had knowledge of. The popular idea that no two leaves on a tree were exactly alike in every respect was shown to be literally true. Many illustrations were given, and speci¬ mens exhibited showing the great variations in seedlings of the same species, often from the same seed vessel ; some from the latter would be regarded by any botanist who found them wild as distinct species. A series of sixteen cones of Pinus rigida was exhibited, each from a separate tree, all growing within a circle of twenty miles ; and the central links being taken away left nominal Pinus serotina at one end and Pinus rigida at the other. Other species could be made by taking the interior series of forms. The speaker contended that vari¬ ation was not a mere condition, but had to be accepted as a primary law of existence. As no two things have ever been produced exactly alike so far as we know, the result must necessarily be a wide divergence in time ; and as we know that death was also a certainty to individuals, distinct forms must certainly ensue. Heredity, as established by Mr. Darwin, was next reviewed, and shown to be established as a counterpoise to variation. It held vari¬ ation in check, but was finally overpowered by this the greater force. Sex was an attribute of heredity. Sex in flowers had no bearing on the future good of the race, and therefore crossing by insect agency or otherwise had no reference to the good of the race by aiding vari¬ ation in the direction of change to suit environments. It rather brought back what Mr. Darwin would imagine a useful variation towards its starting point. A variation which had started from the centre of a circle had to be cross-fertilised, if at all, from the centre from which it sprung, and the progeny was thus brought back towards its parent’s starting point. The next point made was that variations had no relation to the good of the individual or race. Numerous cases were adduced to show that the forms which had prevailed had not the slightest physiological advantage over the forms displaced, and that those who argued on the contrary were reduced to the solitary argument that there must have been some advantage or the species could not have survived. It must be so because it is, is an argument which has no place in researches such as we are engaged in now. The actions and behaviour of both plants and animals were not for their own indi¬ vidual good. Their whole efforts were in the interest of their pro¬ geny — for posterity, for the future, for objects wholly unknown to the individual. Yet we found from the science of the past that all this self-sacrifice — pleasant as it was made to be to the individual, and ignorant as these individuals were of what they were working for — all had resulted in present harmony. In the speaker’s language “ we and all organic things are the invited guests of Nature. She makes our stay with her as pleasant as possible, but she ruthlessly dismisses us the moment we cease to serve her future purposes.” The laws by which destruction were brought about were then considered, and the manner in which species were created by the aid of this destructive power discussed ; and how, under the operation of the law of heredity, surviving forms found a temporary standing ground until the greater law of variation again finally removed them. Finally the speaker took up the objection that Mr. Darwin’s views were destructive of Christianity, and showed that they were in reality the strongest confirmation of Christianity’s essential features. To his mind Christianity differed from all other systems of religion by insisting on the necessity of self-sacrifice. We have “ to do the Father’s will ” regardless of all consequences to ourselves, as the condition of happiness, and the Great Teacher himself sealed these doctrines which shine from almost every page of the New Testament by the Saviour offering up His own life. This is precisely what science, as he had endeavoured to trace it, was now teaching. A wiser Power than any science had as yet been able to fathom was directing all things to some far-away object, to us unknown ; not for the individual benefit of anything, except in so far as it was in har¬ mony with this Power, holding all things together for good in spite of the seeming clashings of individual interest, and he was assured that the time would come when evolutionists, and especially those who advocated the theory of natural selection, would come to be January ii, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 37 regarded as true Christianity’s warmest friends. — ( The Naturalist’s Leisure Hourl) IS WORK/offTHEWEEK,. v rrrSl [By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments .] HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. Planting. — In favourable weather forward the planting so as to finish it before the end of the month. In so wet a winter the trees should be procured before the ground is touched, then pre¬ pare each station and plant the tree in it before starting with another, the object being to avoid stirring the soil and then leaving it to become saturated with ram before planting. In new gardens and orchards drain thoroughly before any planting is done, making the drains 30 feet apart, and from 2 to 4 feet deep, according to the nature and condition of the soil. In old gardens renew or repair the drains as appears necessary. Examine the soil with great care, and deepen or enrich it as seems Decessary. Never forget that a fruit tree is liable to suffer from canker and to decay early in a poor shallow soil, therefore see that every station has a depth of 2 feet of good soil and is 6 feet square. In old gardens there is no objection to planting young trees in the same place as the old trees grew in, provided due care is taken to remove all particles of old roots from the soil, and to renovate it with a dressing of lime and a little fresh soil. We have a heap of pond mud which was mixed with lime some eighteen months ago that we are using for this purpose now. Pruning. — Pruning all kinds of fruit trees, except Filberts and other Nuts, should be continued on every favourable day, so as to finish it in good time before the buds commence swelling. Let the condition of each tree be the guide in pruning. Unhealthy or weakly growth should never be retained. All the fruiting wood of a Noblesse Peach was found to be so weakly last January as to be incapable of bearing fine fruit. It was cut off at the expense of last year’s crop, but now the tree has magnificent fruiting wood, singularly sturdy, and thickly set with triple buds. There should be much caution in pruning Cherries. We have a fine collection of pyramids, which we used to prune closely till they were as large as we required them and were in full bearing. Since then hard pruning has been gradually discontinued, and a thinning of crowded growth is almost all that is required, very little of the young growth having to be shortened. The hard pruning of Cherries in full bearing leads to premature decay, and should be avoided as much as possible, even in the deepest richest loams. It is a rule in the large Kentish plantations to finish pruning bush fruits by the end of January. Very strong shoots are removed from all sorts except Black Currants, which cannot be too strong, and other growths are thinned so as to give free admission to light and air. Raspberries are shortened to 3 feet and have no sup¬ ports ; but in the garden we prefer the canes 4 feet 6 inches long, and tie them in rows to tarred string fastened to stakes driven in the ground along the rows at intervals of 6 feet. Training. — A healthy tree with every branch equally vigorous and fruitful, combined with a symmetrical shapely form, should be the end and aim of all training. Air and light should enter the tree freely to the base of every branch and among every cluster of spurs. To secure this will be to thin branches and spurs in the best way, and the eye will be the guide in this matter better than any stated distance apart could do. Let every branch point upwards, or at as acute an angle as possible. See that all tight shreds or strings be removed, so that there is no hurtful pinching or hindrance to the free growth of young trees. Carefully examine all wire stays, and loosen any that may require it. Neglected wire supports or fastenings are a greater and more frequent source of harm to fast-growing young trees than any other material used for training or supports. FRUIT HOUSES. Strawberries in Pots.— In order to secure a supply of ripe Straw¬ berries at the end of March or beginning of April the plants must be introduced to an early Peach house or vinery where the night temperature does not exceed 50° ; but as this will be the minimum of a vinery preference should be given to a Peach house, which will have a night or artificial temperature of 40° to 50°. The drainage should be examined and if necessary rectified, carefully removing all worms. The surface of the pots being loosened with a pointed stick and removed should be given a top-dressing of old Mushroom-bed refuse or something similar. Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury, La Grosse Sucr^e, and President are suitable varieties. Early varieties started last month will be slowly ad¬ vancing now. Take advantage of fine days to apply a little hea*-, and increasing the atmospheric moisture by sprinkling the paths, the plants being lightly syringed and afforded a proper supply of water at the roots. The night temperature must not greatly exceed 50° until the trusses are prominent, or they will be liable to become drawn and the flowers prove abortive. Peaches and Nectarines.— Where forcing was commenced early in December the buds on the most forward trees are now fully expanded, and should be dusted on fine days with a soft brush to distribute the pollen. Where fermenting materials have been used the moisture arising from them in combination with the damping of paths will be sufficient, and syringing the trees will be unnecessary until the fruit is set. Keep the ventilators open day and night unless the weather be very severe, and even then they should be left slightly open at the top of the house con¬ stantly. The night temperature should be maintained at 55°, or 5° less in very severe weather, allowing a rise of 5° to 10° by day with fire heat, and 5° to 10° more from sun heat. Houses re¬ cently closed should have a night temperature of 45° to 50°, with a rise of 5° by day from fire heat and 10° to 15° from sun heat. Syringe twice a day, and allow a circulation of air constantly. If there be any aphides in the house fumigate before the flowers open. Complete the dressing of trees in late houses, and do not neglect the supply of water. Cherry House. — The trees in this structure being started the day temperature by artificial means should be kept steadily at 50° to 55°, and the weather being fine it may be allowed to rise to 60° or 65°, but it must be from sun heat alone, admitting air more freely. Syringing must be attended to in the morning and early afternoon, and allow the night temperature to fall to 45° or 40° in severe weather. See that the borders are well moistened, as frequent syringing in houses is likely to mislead as to the moisture at the roots. This more particularly applies to trees in pots. The watering is essential in encouraging root-action, which takes place simultaneously with growth ; indeed the root-action commences with the swelling of the buds. The water supplied should be about the same temperature as that of the house. Pines. — Let every attention be given to the Queen plants which are about to be started for the London season, keeping them well supplied with the requisite heat and moisture. Main¬ tain the night temperature at 70°, not allowing it to fall below 65° in the severest weather, 70° to 75° by day, and 80° to 90° under solar heat, closing the house at 85°, and giving a slight damping overhead about twice a week. Similar treatment will need to be given fruiting plants. In successional houses provide a mean temperature of 60° at night, 65° to 70° in the day, and 80° from sun heat. Suckers should have a temperature of 55° or a few degrees higher, and 60° to 65° by day. See to the supply of soil, as the time is fast approaching when properly prepared soil and other requisites will be wanted. PLANT HOUSES. Greenhouse.— Epacrises, Erica hyemalis, and other early varieties that have been flowering in the conservatory and are past their best should be cut close back. Some care and attention must be devoted to these plants after removal from any structure that is warmer than the ordinary greenhouse, for if placed at once in a cold house they will be seriously checked. If possible give them a temperature of 45° to 50° according to the weather, and keep the house or pit in which they are placed a little closer for a few weeks. Ericas will not long endure a close atmosphere, and thrive best when once fairly started into growth with abundant ventilation. The former will be much benefited if encouraged by moderate heat in their early stages of growth when required for flowering in early winter, than to have to force them into flower when wanted. E. gracilis, E. Caffra, and others are very liable to the attacks of mildew. At its first appearance dew the affected parts with the syringe and apply sulphur. Avoid a stag¬ nant damp atmosphere, which is detrimental to Heaths. These, as well as all hardwooded varieties, should be kept as cool as possible by free ventilation, and apply fire heat on fine days to expel damp. Keep a sharp look-out for aphides, which will appear at this season upon Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, and Cinerarias. This pest increases rapidly on these plants, and should at its first appearance be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco paper for two or three successive nights, which is preferable to one strong application. Stove. — Gardenias that have been kept in a night temperature JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 88 [ January 11, 1883. of 60° up to the present have their flower buds swelling rapidly > and should, if grown in any quantity, be divided into two or three batches. The most forward should be placed where a rise of 5° at night can be given them, with a corresponding rise during the day. They should be syringed once or twice daily when the weather is favourable. The young plants that were rooted in autumn and kept in small pots can now be transferred into others 5 or 6 inches in diameter. The points of the shoots should be pinched out as soon as the roots take to the new soil. If young plants have not been prepared for an early start strong cuttings should at once be selected from the non-flowering shoots and in¬ serted singly in thumb pots. The compost should be sandy peat for the cuttings, and then good fibry loam, to which should be added one 6-inch potful of bonemeal and half the quantity of soot to each barrowful of soil, and sufficient coarse sand to render the whole porous. After the cuttings are well watered they should be plunged into a bottom heat of 85° and covered with a bell- glass or handlight. Gardenias are free-rooting plants, and every cutting will quickly strike. From cuttings inserted and rooted at once fine plants will be produced in twelve months, carrying from twenty to thirty flowers each. Young plants propagated and grown annually are preferable to retaining old specimens. The oldest, or three-year-old plants, that have been retained for early flowering should after blooming be thrown away. Young plants under cultivation in pots grow more luxuriantly, and are in con¬ sequence less liable to the attacks of mealy bug and scale. Gloxinias that have had a good season of rest can now be started. The old soil should be shaken from them and the tubers soaked in tepid water. After they have drained sufficiently they can be repotted in the same or larger pots, according to the size of the tubers. The drainage should be liberal and the pots clean, using a compost of loam, one-third leaf soil, and a seventh of decayed manure, with a liberal quantity of sand. Pot them firmly and place the pots where a temperature of 60° to 65° is maintained. Caladiums may also be started, using similar soil for potting. Achimenes for early flowering should now be shaken out of the old soil and then placed in any light sandy soil in pans, watered, and placed in heat. . . ■ ■ ■ . . i . i . . : i ■: i ■. i ■■■ , . i - i . i - i . -I-T .■ ; , . . . . _ i . . _ . -j : -■ . - , r- i - rr-r^- is B. HE BEE-KEEPER. I —11 VTl NFL EXCESSIVE SWARMING. Owing to the many unfavourable seasons for bees during the last ten years many young apiarians are unacquainted with the difficulties of excessive swarming. Bee-keepers of longer ex¬ perience know that in some seasons not favourable for honey- gathering bees are slow to swarm and seem unwilling to leave their parent hives, and that in hot and honey seasons they often swarm before they are fully ready, and even first swarms send off colonies or virgin swarms before their own hives are filled with combs. Bee-keepers are now more numerous than they ever were before, and, what is better, they are more enlightened than they were a few years ago ; and though the past of their experience in many cases has been rather disappointing, they are still hopeful of a return of good bee seasons. I am one of the most hopeful, and believe that we shall have, as in olden times, warm seasons and heavy harvests of honey. When honey seasons do come bees will swarm often and readily, and many young apiarians will be perplexed. In such times swarms come off unexpectedly, and many are lost. The preparations and arrangements which bees make for swarming have been explained by several teachers in this Journal. First swarms take the queen with them, but before swarming royal cells are formed and eggs placed in them, so that the parent hives shall not be long queenless after the swarms have left. First swarms never issue till royal cells are occupied by eggs or grubs. This is well known, and many bee-keepers try to prevent swarm¬ ing by cutting out all the royal cells. The bees soon build more, place eggs in them, and swarm all the same. This practice of cutting out royal cells may be repeated again and again without finally preventing swarming. In hot seasons bees will swarm, and it is a difficult matter to thwart them while the swarming fever lasts, for sometimes they will set eggs in royal cells and swarm the same day ; and if first swarms are cast back on the parent hives they will issue again within twenty-four hours. In such struggles between bees and their masters many swarms are lost. To prevent the loss of swarms some bee-keepers clip a wing off every queen, so that they cannot fly ; but even this does not pre¬ vent swarming, for though the queens without wings cannot follow the swarms, they leave their hives with them and fall over the flight boards and crawl about in front of the hives till the swarms return ; but still swarming is not prevented, for if the queens crawl back into the hives the efforts to swarm will be re¬ peated again and again. All this is not surprising, for it is as natural for bees to swarm in good seasons as it is for broody hens to seek nests. In hot honey seasons many second swarms are obtained, and sometimes three swarms issue from one hive. When the eggs set in royal cells come to perfection the piping sounds are heard ; the young queens — one hatched, the others in their cells — pipe and bark at one another for three days and nights before second swarms issue. If all the royal cells but one are removed or cut out before piping commences no second swarms will issue. If this is not done, and second swarms do issue when not required, they should be cast back on the mother hives some hours after they left, and this will prevent further swarming, because all the queens will be destroyed but one, and the hives have no eggs at the time. Though I am now going to mention the measures adopted to prevent swarming I do not wish the reader to believe that I manage my bees on the non-swarming system. In most seasons I follow the swarming principle, believing that it is the best and most profitable way of managing an apiary ; but I try to keep swarming within proper limits. Many bee-keepers prefer the non-swarming system of management, and aim at great results in super honey. Supering, or enlarging hives by supers, is the general mode adopted to prevent swarming, but this too often fails and swarms are lost; hence it is desirable to cut all the royal cells out of hives at the time supers are placed on them. This may be considered one of the best modes adopted for preventing swarming, and very often answers, especially in the Stewarton principle of supering. The bees, being deprived of their royal cells at the time, they find plenty of room added to their hives for expansion ; they often abandon the idea of swarming and settle down to hard steady work for the whole season, filling one super after another. Many artificial measures are adopted by advanced bee-keepers to prevent the loss of swarms in hot seasons. By artificial swarm¬ ing I have been able to manage a large apiary for many years at a small expense of time and anxiety. If men know when their bees are ready for swarming, and also able to swarm them arti¬ ficially in a few minutes, an apiary in their care and management is comparatively but a small undertaking ; but untutored aud in¬ expert bee-keepers unable to adopt the artificial practice may well fear the loss of swarms in seasons of excessive swarming. As various modes of artificial swarming have from time to time been given in detail in this Journal I shall not go over the ground in this letter. I am anxious, however, for beginners to know and remember that in both natural and artificial swarming the parent hives are queenless for awhile after first swarms are taken or go from them. If two hives become ready to swarm about the same time one of them may be swarmed and placed a few feet to the right of the old stand, and the swarm as far to the left. The queen of the other hive ready to swarm could be taken from it and given to the one which has been swarmed. Thus swarming in both hives would be prevented for at least seventeen days ; but the one which yielded the queen for the other would have young queens ready for piping and swarming on or about the seventeenth day after losing its queen. If we do not want second swarms at all we cut all the royal cells out of hives as soon as the queens begin to pipe, and this prevents piping and swarming too. If all the queen cells cannot be seen or reached while the bees are in the hive we drive them into an empty hive, remove the royal cells, and cast the bees back. Again, if the bees in two hives are ready for swarming at the same time, and only one good swarm is wanted, we drive all the bees and queen from one hive into an empty one, and place the swarm on the same stand. Then we take a swarm at once from the other stock and cast the bees amongst the combs and brood, while yet warm, of the first hive. Thus the queens, combs, and brood of both hives are utilised, and swarming is prevented for about three weeks. Thus by a little skilful manoeuvring swarms are not lost, and excessive swarming is prevented. In hot seasons and in the hands of inexperienced people swarms multiply too much. It would be better for them to put two or more swarms in one hive than have a great number hardly worth keeping or noticing. In most seasons and places one swarm is enough to take from each stock, and in the best of seasons and localities never more than two swarms should be taken from a stock hive, however excellent. In order to prevent swarming in ordinary seasons large supers should be placed on hives before they are quite ready for swarm¬ ing, and as much freedom of access to them as possible. Boom JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January II, 18? 3. j 39 and ventilation tend to ward off the swarming fever. In wishing the bee-keeping community a happy and prosperous year I may say for their encouragement that seasons remarkable for swarm¬ ing are generally remarkable for honey-gathering ; that the weather which multiplies swarms fills the flowers with nectar and hives with honey. The apiarians of England are now anxious to have such a season, and ready to take advantage of it. When it comes many young bee-keepers will have a new experience, and many older ones will have stories to tell of greater success than they have yet known. — A. Pettigrew, Bowdon. British Bee-keepers’ Association. — The next quarterly con¬ versazione will be held in the board-room of the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, at 105, Jermyn Street (near Piccadilly Circus), London, S.W., at G r.M., on Wednesday, January 24th. Subject for discussion — “ The Best Means of instructing Cottagers in Bee-keeping.” To be introduced by the Rev. W. E. Burkitt, of Buttermere Rectory, Hungerford. — Herbert R. Peel, Eon. Sec. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Edmund Phillip Dixon, Hull. — Catalogue of Garden and Farm Seeds for 1883. E. Mount, 154, Blackstock Road, Finsbury Park.— Catalogue of Horticultural Buildings. Sutton it Sons, Reading. — Pocket Garden Calendar for 1883. William Paul & Son, Waltham Cross. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. S. Dixon & Co., 34, Moorgate Street, London. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. Kelway it Son, Langport, Somerset. — Annual for 1883. *** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Pruning a Black Alicante Vine (A Young Gardener).— According to your note the Vine at 4 feet from the ground has produced two canes each 10 feet long. The sample of wood you have sent is excellent and well ripened. A length of from 4 to 5 feet of such wood may be safely left for bearing fruit, hut it does not follow that all the bunches that are produced should be per¬ mitted to remain and ripen. Seedling Dipladenia (J. G., Bristol). — A plant such as you describe would be well worth preserving, for we do not know one of “ shrubby habit,” and it would prove valuable for culture in pots if, as you say, the flowers are larger than those of I). boliviensis. Send us a flower and leaf. Mushrooms for the Million (T. C. and others).— The articles which have appeared in this Journal under the above heading will be published, with some additional matter on the subject, in manual form in the course of a week or two ; indeed the matter is now in hand, and will be completed as speedily as possible. Covering Walls in Orchard House (TF„ Surrey).— We have no doubt you could grow Figs and probably also Pears on the wails, but Apiicots would be less liable to succeed. You do not state the height of the walls, and it depends on this and the height of the trees in the centre as to what extent the former would be shaded. We should plant strong cordon Pears 2 feet apart and train them obliquely, affording them the lightest position, a little shade being less injurious to Figs than to Pears. Poultry Manure (F. II., Guernsey). — An addition of dry soil, so that the manure may be rendered friable enough to be passed through a fine sieve to enable you to distribute it evenly and thinly, will be much better than an appli¬ cation of sulphuric acid, and much cheaper. The addition of nitric acid would add to its value, just as an addition of any other plant-food would, but it is not usual to add nitrogen in any form to manure so rich in that substance as poultry manure is. Moreover, it is far cheaper in the form of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia than nitric acid. Dissolving Bones ( Idem ). — Eighty-five pounds of acid and 15 lbs. water used to damp the bones is the usual amount of acid employed by manufacturers. To render the resulting superphosphate dry sulphate of lime (plaster of Paris) should be used — not ordinary lime. The above manure should be applied to the surface in spring, and forked in very lightly. We do not advise you to mix this with, the poultry manure. Potatoes for Planting an Acre (Vaux). — The weight of tubers requisite for planting an acre depends entirely on the size of the sets that you intend using. At the distance yon name about eleven thousand sets will be needed. If you weigh a sample of those you propose planting, say I cwt., or any other given quantity, you can determine with considerable exactitude the weight of seed to purchase. Forest Tree Seeds (Idem). — As the firm you name is unable to supply seeds of the American trees you require, we can only suggest that you apply to such American firms as Messrs. Ellwanger & Barry, Mount Hope, Rochester ; P. Henderson & Co., 35, Cortland Street, New York ; or Hovey & Co., 1G, Market Street, Boston. Insects on Fruit Trees (IF. J.). — If you dissolve 4 ozs. of softsoap, nicotine soap, or Gishurst compound in a gallon of water, then add a lump of soda as large as a walnut, and a wineglassful (two fluid ounces) of petroleum, apply this to the trees as hot as the hand can be borne in it, scrubbing the branches well and working the solution into the crevices, we think few insects will survive ; or you might try the tar remedy, as described for Vines by Mr. D. Murray on page 547 ; or what has been suggested as an improvement on it by a correspondent on page 596, last volume. With all these remedies at your disposal it will be your own fault if the insects are not destroyed. Orchard House Ventilation (7. £.). — The method shown so clearly in your sketch we think very good, and we have no doubt it will answer your expectations. Relative to the Peaches, Alexander has large flowers and round glands ; Nectarine Peach large flowers, small kidney-shaped glands ; Early Ascot small flowers and round glands. The Dymond Peach has large flowers, but we have no record of the glands, nor of the flowers and glands of the Marquis of Downshire. Probably the nurseryman from whom you obtained the trees would supply you with the information, or possibly some of our readers may be able to do so. Wintering Fuchsias (Wo^d Broughton). — Such old plants as you describe may be wintered safely under a stage of a greenhouse from which frost is ex¬ cluded. They are no worse, but better for losing their leaves, as light then is not needed, and only sufficient water for keeping the shoots fresh and firm. This, if given about once a week, will suffice. In the spring when the buds commence swelling, moderate pruning will be required, and shortly afterwards, when the growths are from a quarter to half an inch long, the plants should be shaken out of the pots, removing all the old soil from them, repotting in fresh compost in smaller pots, and by syringing daily in bright weather and applying water judiciously, cautiously at first until fresh roots have formed, and after¬ wards more copiously, you will soon have fine plauts if they are grown in a light position. They can afterwards be shifted into larger pots or planted in the garden according to the purpose for which you may require them. The publication of this and the following reply was accidently omitted last week. Pruning Black Currants (.4 B/dstol Inquirer). — You say you have been, accustomed to prune Black Currants the same as Gooseberries are pruned, but now you have taken charge of bushes that you describe as being grown on the “ long-rod system,” and you wish to know which course to pursue. Our advice is that you follow the “ long-rod system ” and relinquish the practice of spurring, which is unnatural as applied to this fruit. We know Black Currants may be pro¬ duced on the short-spur system just as Morello Cherries and Peaches can by the same method of pruning, but full crops of the finest fruit are more certain and easily obtained by retaining the young wood when the growths have been suffi¬ ciently thinned for the foliage to be fully exposed to the light and air. Thin out the branches of the Black Currants if the bushes are crowded, and encourage the production of young wood. These annual shoots do not shorten beyond re¬ moving the tips from any that are growing out of place, or for imparting to the bushes a neat appearance, and you will then have larger crops of finer fruit than you can obtain under your former method of pruning. Black Currants are not suitable for growing as cordons for covering a wall. They will cover a wall well enough, but should be trained like Peaches — that is, have a selection of the best young shoots secured to the wall in the summer at distances of about 6 inches apart, removing the others entirely, and not shortening those retained. Certainly try both the methods of pruning Gooseberries to which you refer, and you will gain experience that will be useful. The right method of pruning can only be determined by the condition of the bushes. Some are under-pruned and others over-pruned, and you will act wisely to find out the method that answers the best with those in your keeping. Propagation of Chimonanthus fragrans ( F.H. , Devon).— This shrub is very difficult to propagate, and it is said that Professor Lindley once offered a guinea for every cutting that could be rooted. That mode of increase is, how¬ ever, very unsatisfactory, though a few instances of success have been recorded. The best results appear to have been attained when cuttings of the young partially matured wood were taken in the early summer and inserted in sandy soil in a cool shady position. Layering is also practised, the process being similar to that adopted with other shrubs, but even this is often attended by failure. Seeds would appear to be the safest and surest method of increase. But here there is another difficulty : the (lowers are not self-fertilising, and unless care is taken to insure artificial fertilisation no seeds will be perfected. This i3 chiefly due to the fact that the anthers are what is termed extrorse — namely, the portion bearing the pollen is turned away from the pistil — namely, towards the circumference of the flower, and at the time when the plant flowers in England there are no insects to convey the pollen to the stigma. Your best course would be to procure young plants from a nurseryman who makes a speciality of shrubs. Treatment of Calanthe Veitchii after Flowering ( R . C. D.).— After the flowers have faded the plants will require a good season of rest, with¬ holding water until growth is observed to be commencing again. That is the best time for potting, employing a compost of peat, light loam, and well-decayed cow manure, with a little sand, the peat forming the chief part of the mixture in bulk. Drain the pots carefully, and over the crocks place a layer of sphagnum moss, then a little of the compost, and upon that the pseudo-bulbs, filling up with the compost to within about an inch of the rim of the pot. To encourage vigorous growth the plants must have a position in the stove or similar warm house ; and as a light position is requisite, they are usually placed upon a shelf near the glass, but where shade can be afforded in bright sunny weather. Supply water liberally while growth is advancing, weak liquid manure being also bene¬ ficial if given occasionally. During the period of flowering less water will be needed . Vegetables for Market (Co. Down). — Knowing nothing whatever of your soil, nor the adaptability of the district for vegetable culture, we are unable to give a categorical reply to your question. We have no doubt if the soil is fertile and the locality favourable to the production of early crops that a competent and industrious man might succeed fairly well in growing vegetables for the Liverpool market ; but it would be advisable to make inquiries of 40 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 11, 1883. vegetable salesmen and greengrocers there as to the vegetables most in demand and the prices that are usually obtainable, also to procure information as to the cost of transit from the ground to the market. As you say the vegetables would be grown by a “ professional man,” he ought to be competent to judge, after making the inquiries we have suggested, what kinds it would answer best to cultivate. Much forethought is requisite in work of this nature, as it is not uncommon for the inexperienced to produce good crops of a particular vegetable just when the market is overstocked and the prices consequently low. Much labour has been wasted and money lost by accidents of that kind. Be first in the market with good produce and you will find vegetable-growing profitable, otherwise you will not find the occupation equal your expectations. Gladioli for Scotland (Ayrshire). — The following notes on culture and selection of varieties by a successful Scottish cultivator will answer your inquiry About the middle of February, if favourable weather be bad, trench your ground to a depth of at least 2 feet. See that the drainage be satisfactory, and incorporate with the soil some well-decayed manure. We believe cowdung is, on the whole, the best. Keep this at sufficient depth to avoid immediate contact with the corms, and if the soil be already in good condition do not enrich it too much. Weak liquid manure can be applied with more safety as the plants progress. About the middle of March, if the weather allow, plant the corms a foot apart each way, the smaller about 4 inches, the larger 5 or 6 inches deep. Rather delay for a week or two than plant in soil saturated with wet. Place each root in sand and cover it with it. Beds of three, or at most four rows, allow of the plants being easily reached for the purpose of staking, shading, &c. The former should be attended to by the time the plants begin to run to flower. The latter is essential to having clean and well-furnished spikes. Planted at the depths given watering will in your district be little needed, unless in exceptionally dry seasons. The following are twenty-four leading compe¬ tition varieties of moderate price Adolphe Brongniart, Camille, Carnation, Celimene, Daubenton, Be Mirbel, Giganteus, Horace Vernet, Jupiter, Leander, Le Phare, L’Unique Violet, Mary Stuart, Matador, Meyerbeer, Mons. Legouvb, Murillo, Norma, Ondive, Orpheus, Panorama, Pictum, Primatice, and Shakespeare. Should you wish you may safely add or substitute any of these six dearer sorts — Archduchesse Marie Christine, Baroness Burdett Coutts, Eclair, Flamingo, Marquis of Lothian, Victor Jacquemont. Edgings for Carriage Drives (IF. A. Newton).— The question of edgings is very much a question of cost. We presume you desire a permanent earthenware edging, in which case you cannot do better than write for a priced illustrated catalogue from those firms who advertise them in our columns. In some places bricks placed diagonally are largely employed as edgings. The following description of this plan was forwarded to us many years ago by Mr. , . Robson : — For many years I / v have been in the habit of using / \ common kiln bricks as an edging / \ to walks through dark shrub- N beries and similar places. These . are laid in a diago- _ nal position — one / edge and one flat / side presenting each an angle of / 45° to view, or, in other words, / they are laid with an angle-edge /' upwards, thus — and, being placed ' deep enough in the ground to allow only about 2 inches of the angular side of the brick to be seen, its appearance is pleasing, and it is not easily moved ; even a wheelbarrow driven over it does no further damage than chip¬ ping the angles off a little ; and sweeping and all the other ordinary work of cleaning a walk only improve its appearance.” The bricks should be burned hard. C ROUND (t \ \ / Fig. 10. а, The corner of brick forming the edging, б, The buried portion of the brick. Inarching or Bottle-grafting Vines (Gardener). — You need have no difficulty in carrying out your object, and you will find full instructions for doing so in No. 617, the issue of January 23rd, 1873, which can be had from the publisher in return for 3. in postage stamps, quoting the number _ and date that we have submitted. We cannot detail the practice so fully in this column as you will find recorded in the number in question. Peach and Fig Trees in Vinery (R. II. R.). — We gather from your letter that you propose growing the trees in large pots or tubs. You may very well do so, and with good cultural attention, and especially preventing red spider becoming established on the Peach, you may succeed in producing a few acceptable dishes of fruit without in the slightest degree injuring the Vines. Until the Vines cover the roof and cast a heavy shade below you can ripen the Peaches and Figs in the house if you choose, or you can remove them to the greenhouse, or even plunge the pots in a warm position out doors after the fruit is set. If the crop is allowed to ripen under glass it will be well to place the trees in a sunny position in the open air, plunging the pots or tubs, and applying water as may be necessary for maintaining the health of the trees. We are acquainted with a vinery in which a Peach tree is ained close to the glass at the end of the house, the roots being outside, and ough the roof is covered with Vines, from six to ten dozen of fine Peaches are gathered from the tree yearly. The gardener takes care to permit no red spider to infest the tree, and consequently he has none on the Vines, but instead a very fine crop of Grapes annually. Some years ago we planted and trained a Fig tree similarly, which has since produced thousands of excellent fruits without interfering with the Vines in any way. You cannot have a more useful Fig than the Brown Turkey, nor a better Peach than Grosse Mignonne. Name of Plant (R. H. /).).— Tussilago fragrans. Pee note on page 28. It is a native of Italy, but has been in this country since the commencement of the present century. It is commonly termed the Sweet-scented Coltsfoot. Dead Queen (E. T.). — At this season bees have no eggs and cannot rear a queen to replace the one you found dead on the flight board. Even if a queen could now be bred she would, in the absence of drones, remain unfertilised and be useless. The bees of your hive should be united to another stock having a queen, or otherwise the bees and queen of a le*s valuable hive united to it. The work of uniting bees at this cold season is best done by candlelight in a hothouse or warm room of a dwelling-house. First sprinkle a little warm syrup over the bees or on the combs of bees to be surrendered about sunset. Close the door of the hive and take it into a dark room for an hour, the bees will then be all astir and easily shaken from the combs or the hive. Smoke the bees a little, lift out the bees singly and rapidly, and with a hand-brush sweep the bees from the combs into an empty hive, keeping the candle as much out of sight as possible. All this is but the work of two or three minutes. The hive to receive the bees, previously treated with syrup like the other, should be placed on and over the bees. The caudle should be put out and the bees left to unite and fraternise. We have practised this mode of uniting bees in cold weather in scores of instances, and never once failed. The only risk is in losing a few bees that fly to the candle. But in the bands of an expert the work is so speedily done that the bees seldom have time to fly. Hives with fixed combs are treated differently. By giving them a sudden jerk or two all the bees fall from the combs to the floor, when the hive to receive them is placed over them. CO VENT GARDEN MARKET.— JANUARY 10TH. We have been badly supplied during the week with fruit generally, excepting Grapes, which have barely maintained Christmas quotations. Vegetables plentiful. FRUIT. 8. d. s. d. 9. d. 3. d. Apples . J sieve 2 0to7 0 Grapes . ft. 2 OtoS e ,, . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Lemons . case 10 0 20 0 Apricots . doz. 0 0 0 0 Melons . each 0 0 0 0 Cherries . £ sieve 0 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 0 0 Chestnuts . bushel 10 0 12 0 Oranges . 100 6 0 10 0 Currants, Black. . i sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 „ Red.... \ sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 1 0 2 0 Figs . dozen 0 6 1 0 dessert . dozen 1 0 2 0 Filberts . ft. 0 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English ft. 1 8 2 0 Cobs . 100 ft . 50 0 55 0 Raspberries . ft. 0 0 0 0 Gooseberries .... 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .... lb. 0 0 0 0 VEGETABLES. 8 d. s. d. 9. d. 8. d. dozen 2 0 to 4 0 1 ntni Q Asparagus . bundle 0 0 0 0 Mushrooms . punnet l 0 j 6 Beans, Kidney ... 100 1 0 0 0 Mustard & Cress . punnet 0 2 0 8 Beet, Red . dozen 1 0 2 0 Onions . bushel 2 3 2 6 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 1 6 Parsley . doz. bunches 8 0 4 0 Brussels Sprouts. . i sieve 1 6 2 0 Parsnips . dozen 1 0 2 0 Cabbage . dozen 0 6 1 0 Peas . quart 0 0 a 0 Capsicums . 100 1 6 2 0 Potatoes . cwt. 6 0 7 e Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Kidney . cwt. 6 0 8 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 Radishes.... doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Celery . bundle 1 6 2 0 Rhubarb . bundle 0 4 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Salsafy . bundle 1 0 0 0 Cucumbers . each i 6 2 0 Scorzo'nera . bundle 1 fl 0 8 Endive . dozen 1 0 2 0 1 o O o Fennel . bunch 0 s 0 0 Shallots . lb. s o o Garlic . a. 0 6 0 0 Spinach . bushel 3 0 0 0 Herbs . bunch 2 0 0 lt>. o « 1 o Leeks . bunch 0 3 0 4 Turnips . bunch 0 2 0 3 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. GOAT FARMING. Amongst other matters which are coming forward at the present time Goat farming is becoming prominent with amateurs, but it is likely also to attract more attention than it has done amongst farmers who may be so situated as to be able to turn it to advantage. It will, however, no doubt, receive most notice from those engaged in what we call suburban villa farming ; still, there is an opportunity for the home farmer in some situations to profit by the management of Goats under special circumstances and in particular situations. We propose, therefore, to place before our readers such information as we have been enabled to obtain in connection with the subject, which may be not only interesting to amateurs but profitable to the farmer. We shall not only explain our opinions, but also the best and most ad¬ vanced practice of those who have taken a decided interest in the matter, and who have value i the Goat as an animal capable of furnishing milk, meat, and mohair. From these items the public and consumers have not hitherto obtained much benefit ; it, however, remains to be seen how far their requirements in this direction can be met by farming this kind of stock. As, how¬ ever, a Goat Society has been formed, we assume that an amount of enterprise and spirit will be called into operation, so that the January 18, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 43 18 th 19 th 20th Tn Royal Society at 4.30 P.M., Linnsean at 8 r.M. s 21st Sun Septuagesima. 22nd M 23rd Tu 24th W Society of Arts at 8 p.M. ON BIPENING AND PEESEEYING PEAES. HE question is asked by “Wiltshire ? Eector ” (page 566) of the experience of o other fruit-growers, whether they have noticed a change of season in the ripen¬ ing properties of many of their Pears, and “ what can be the reason why a Pear should be ripe three months before its time in spite of its being kept in a cold fruit-room ?” Now I confess I should be far more surprised than I am at not a single reply being given on a subject of such universal interest — for how seldom at dessert is a dish of well- ripened late Pears allowed to pass ! — were it not that I have long noticed, as one taking a somewhat prac¬ tical interest in these matters, that, put poetically, a flash of silence is all that follows. Except perhaps it be a short or very occasional notice of the relative merits of one Pear over another, our horticultural journals do not compare the experience of fruit-growers as they ought, very profitably to themselves and the public, on this most delicious of all luxuries. In spite of the editorial note appended to “ Wiltshire Sector’s ” question, I venture in all humility to send you a few remarks, more in the way of challenging discussion than for a moment imagining I am giving a definite solution. With the great majority of medium and late Pears of the two last unfavourable years, the constituent properties of the fruit was so bad, so manifestly de¬ ficient in the development of those gradual chemical changes so essential to their proper keeping, that this fact alone is almost a sufficient answer. Most Pears I assume, as grown of late, with few exceptions, except in highly favoured localities, were gathered as unripe or crudely developed Pears, however apparently full- sized and healthy, and as such incapable of keeping long even under the most careful and intelligent treat¬ ment. It is a matter of my own sad experience that not a tithe of my deficient crop of Pears survived the second sorting, and from what I hear this generally was the case. I give the following illustration from a useful publication, “ The Chemistry of Daily Life ” (Johnson and Church), as showing up to a certain point my meaning here. “ The ripening Pear (or Apple) presents us with an illustration of special chemical changes proceeding con¬ tinually in the plant to a specific and useful end. The unripe Pear shrinks in, refuses to retain its natural size, and cannot be kept for any length of time. The effects are the consequence of the thin bark which covers the fruit not having attained its matured com¬ position. While unripe this coating is porous and pervious to water, so that when moved from the parent plant the fruit gives off water by evaporation to the air, and this shrivels and shrinks in as has been described ; but when ripe this porous covering becomes chemically changed into a thin impervious coating of cork, through which water can scarcely pass, and by which, there¬ fore, it is confined within for months together. It is this corky layer which enables the winter Pear or Apple to be brought to table in spring of their full natural size.” On the hypothesis that Pears this year are gathered in the situation of Pears before they are ripe, this statement affords a solution to “ Wiltshire Lector’s ” questions, but only to a certain point — viz., in pointing to the deficiency of gradual chemical change in the development of the fruit ; other and more important chemical changes must take place in the constituent properties of a Pear to insure a healthy and reliable ripening of the fruit in its due season. Popularly and broadly stated, as regards the bad effects on such fruits as Pears ripening and keeping well during the two last unfavourable seasons, it may be laid down that there was too little saccharine matter as an element of preservation and too much water as an element of decomposition. However, according to the latest scientific discoveries on the subject it has been for some time quite recognised as an established fact, that well-defined and even classified and named microscopic organisms of the family of the yeast plant attach themselves to the external surface of all fleshy fruits, such as Apples and Pears, at the season of ripen¬ ing: some adapted to aerial growth, while others are capable of living when submerged in fluid. These Sac- cliaromyces, or Sugar Funguses as they are called, exist principally by feeding on the decomposition of the saccharine matter with which they come in contact. Thanks to M. Pasteur, this knowledge that all healthy ripening and preserving properties in such fruits as Pears and Apples is connected with the growth of fungus yeast by a process of insensible fermentation, is capable of illustration. This distinguished French chemist obtained these fungus germs by washing ripe fruit with chemically pure water, which was rendered slightly turbid by the presence of myriads of small particles, such as atoms of dust, &c., including what seemed to be spores of funguses. These particles, widely in appearance differing among themselves, M. Pasteur cultivated in saccharine fluids. When under the microscope he was able to determine them as the true yeast plant or sugar-eating funguses, all differing from the other in size of cells, shape, and growth. Such living organisms, modern science thus clearly demonstrates, contribute to the life from whence they themselves derive their life-growth. If further illus¬ tration were necessary it might be found in this way. If, instead of affording saccharine fluid for these yeast plants’ or sugar funguses’ use, a solution, say, of gum was used, no sensible effect would take place ; and why not ? In the one case the minute plants have met wfith food congenial to them, in the other they have found nothing on which they could thrive and grow. This is just the condition of the present Pear crop in the main during the late cold and sunless seasons. The low temperature and thin watery juices have failed No. 134*— Vol; VI., Third Series, Ko. 1790.— You LXIX„ OLD Series. 44 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 18, 1883. in affording nourishment in the shape of saccharine matter which the sugar funguses require, while they in their turn have given way to various other species of false or diseased funguses, producing the result which the “ Wiltshire Rector ” and his brother fruit-growers deprecate in capricious and often very precocious maturation. Two significant lessons seem to come of the above remarks. (1) To grow only or mainly those superb all-round varieties of Pears like Doyenne du Comice, whose superabundance of sugar can cope with a season like the present ; and (2nd) wherever and however fruit-repositories may be chosen, not to have them too dry, this being far more important than temperature, when sooner or later the fruit may ripen ; but with too excessive evaporation in the case of substances of such different densities coming into action as air and water, no precaution with fruit of inferior juices in a wet season can help shrivelling and im¬ perfect maturation. — Herefordshire Incumbent. ODONTOGLOSSUM ALEXANDRAS. Only a few years ago it was generally impressed upon the minds of most persons that the cultivation of Orchids entailed a large amount of trouble, and that they of all plants were the most difficult to manage. This notion and the enormous price at which they were sold prevented many from obtaining them, and those who did grow them and attained a fair amount of success were regarded as having achieved the masterpiece of gardening. Tens of thousands of Orchids have been collected and imported to this country during the past few years in fresh condition, and they can now be obtained for a few shillings each, thus being within the reach of all who possess a garden and a greenhouse. The idea that they are difficult to grow is still prevalent with many ; but this is not the case, although it applies to certain species and varieties, and the supposed difficulties attending the management of some of the most handsome and useful kinds I hope in a few years will have died away. Odontoglossum Alexandra is one of the easiest, cheapest, and most lovely Orchids that can be grown. If I was con¬ fined to the cultivation of one variety I should choose this one. It has graceful arching flower spikes, which are freely produced, and many of the varieties are beautifully spotted with crimson, purple, and brown spots, which show to great advantage on the pure white ground ; others are slightly suffused with pink or rose, while some are conspicuous for their spotless purity. This Orchid is mow very popular, and there can be no doubt that its popularity is rapidly on the increase, and in a few years will be as freely grown in the majority of gardens as Zonal Pelargoniums are at the present time. Already we find it in hundreds in some gardens, and no better plant can be grown where choice flowers are required during the winter. The flowers last for five or six weeks, and their usefulness in a cut state is too well known to need any remarks from me. But not only are the flowers useful in that way, but the plants when in flower can be used for a variety of decorative pur¬ poses. It will safely bear removal without injury from the house in which it is grown, and will stand in rooms for at least three weeks wffiere gas is not employed and cold draughts kept from the plants. When arranged in the conservatory few plants have such an elegant appearance with their graceful arching flower spikes standing well above other plants. If the hot-water pipes are directly under the stage and dry the plants quickly, it is a good plan to place under them a shallow pan of water in which is inserted a flower pot for the pot in which the plant is growing to stand upon. Imported plants I have found do the best when obtained either duiing the winter or in early spring, and if they have not started into growth on the journey so much the better. If the pseudo-bulbs are fresh and plump when they arrive the plants are almost sure to start freely and make a good growth the first season. If, on the other hand , the back pseudo-bulbs are much shrivelled, they seldom grow vigorously, and often remain small for a very long time ; in fact I would not purchase such, because abundance are now landed in this country in the best condition, and upon this depends much of the rapid develop¬ ment of the plants afterwards. After they are first received the dead roots and decaying pseudo-bulbs that may be upon them should be removed, and the plants laid thinly in pans or sieves in a shady part of a house where the night temperature is maintained at about 50° until they show signs of starting into growth. At first the moisture of the house will be suffi¬ cient, but after ten days or a fortnight they should be lightly syringed two or three times weekly. As soon as they com¬ mence growing they should be placed in 2^-inch pots, in fact the smallest pots the pseudo-bulbs can be secured in, as I have found them do better than when larger pots are employed. The pots should be about one-third filled with small crocks for drainage, and the remaining portion filled with fibry peat, from which the smallest particles have been shaken, and clipped living sphagnum moss, used in about equal proportions. The pots should be filled a little above the rim, and the pseudo¬ bulbs firmly secured on the top. If they have not sufficient roots to hold them firmly, a small stake can be placed between them and into the material used for potting. They should then be placed closely together, so that they will be convenient for syringing until they have well started into growth. When once fairly started into growth, if the pseudo-bulbs were fresh they quickly commence forming roots, and are then top-dressed with sphagnum moss, and the plants watered, as I shall detail in a future issue for established plants. Some of the plants wfill grow more rapidly than others, and soon form their first growth and then start again vigorously, and require 3-inch pots before the summer is over. Others will only make one growth the first season, but the majority will throw small flower spikes, on which we only leave one flower just to see what the variety is like. It is a mistake to leave more flowers upon these small plants or allow the one to remain long, for I am convinced that it weakens them materially. Those plants that have made a second growth will very often produce a very fair spike with five to seven flowers upon it, but will be later than those that make but the one bulb. — W. Bardney. (To be continued.) ECONOMICAL MANURING. Having in my last letter (page 590, last vol.) attempted to prove that applying manure during autumn and early winter was generally a mistake, the all-important question now is, How can it best be preserved till the time is favourable for its application without any material loss, and at the same time that it shall be so far decomposed as to be available immedi¬ ately for the sustenance of the crops for which it is applied ? What I have for manure — and I am afraid many other gar¬ deners are just as badly off — is simply the straw which has been used one night in the stables in which carriage horses are kept, the urine from which mostly passes away in the drains, and the droppings I am obliged to collect for the purpose of grooving Mushrooms. There is then very little besides the straw itself to act as manure, and if this were left to become violently heated or much washed with the rains the support it would give to growing crops would be small. The best plan I know is to mix the fresh material with some which is partly decayed, and turn it frequently during the winter. In my case I have a quantity of fresh litter to apply at each turning — say once a fortnight till the end of January, and I find that in the short time between the turnings all the fresh material is so far decomposed as to be scarcely dis¬ tinguishable from that Avhich has lain together six months, so fast does decomposition help decomposition. The fresh material is never added in sufficient quantity to produce violent heating, and the old material supplies ample moisture to keep all in such a condition that it will absorb all or nearly all the rainfall, so that there is little or nothing washed away, and the combustion being slow, gradual, and continuous, there is little or nothing carried away by ffie atmosphere. While the manure has been accumulating another heap con¬ sisting of refuse soil, weeds, lawn mowings, &c., has also been formed. This, too, is turned up together to assist decc repo¬ sition. Then there is some harder material in thr shape of prunings, Asparagus roots which have been forced, Cabbage stumps, tops from the strong-growing Potatoes, &c., which January 18, 1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 45 require the action of fire to bring them speedily into condition for manurial purposes. I believe I use these most economically by putting them in with the clay which is burned in great quantity every winter ; but clay is not burned in every establishment, and then it is advisable to have a slow fire for the purpose of bringing these harder materials into manageable form. The I re must be a slow one, and the materials burned without admitting more air than is necessary for combustion, or much of their valuable properties will be lost. It should be kept banked up with refuse soil, and be simply allowed to smoulder. We have now three heaps differing considerably in their constituents and also in their texture, and the most economical way of using them is to mix them all together before applying them to the land. It may seem a good deal of labour to do this, and will be beneath the notice of those who can have as much manure from a covered cattle yard as they like to use, but to others situated like myself it may be worth considering. And as good crops are produced by these and similar means, it follows that where they are not utilised and labour is cheap there must be some waste. On large estates there are generally opportunities for collect¬ ing leaves in quantity, and these when decayed make an excel¬ lent dressing for the land. I used to collect them in autumn and winter to mix with the litter received from the stables, and thus add materially to the size of the heap ; but I think the leaves are made better use of now by allowing them to decay where they fall or where they are blown to (of course I am not recommending this practice near the mansion or in dressed grounds), and then the naturally made leaf soil is collected from the little hollows, which for some reason not quite clear to myself is very much better in quality than any leaf soil which can be made after the leaves are collected in heaps. Perhaps it is these very heaps which spoil it. The quantities which are blown together in the woods are com¬ paratively small ; the air and rain can act on them, and the birds by scratching them about not only assist in aerating them and breaking them up, but they prevent slugs, worms, &c., accumulating, as they are apt to do when the material is collected in large heaps. The leaf soil thus obtained is not, of course, mixed with the manure for growing Cabbages and the like ; it is used for a few favoured plants, but it ultimately finds its way into the garden. I commend the Crown Manure Company for their attempt to help those situated like myself with regard to the manure question. Their “ improvers,” if made in a scientific manner, ought after a few experiments to be just the thing for us to mix with the manure heaps I have attempted to describe, and I should think that guessing what they are likely to be short of would not present great difficulties to the chemist. I may tell those of your readers who are not aware of the fact, that artificial manures can be used most economically and with the best results when they are used in conjunction with natural manures, or on soils where the remains of former applications of natural manures are present in quantity. — Wm. Taylor. NEW AND CERTIFICATED PLANTS OF 1882. MESSRS. H. CANNELL & SONS, SWANLEY. The “ Home for Flowers ” has gained a world-wide fame for the most popular of plants — florists’ flowers ; and the advance effected in many of these in recent years, which has been directly or indirectly due to Mr. Cannell’s attention, is considerable. All the best of softwooded indoor plants, such as Pelargoniums, Primulas, Begonias, Cinerarias, Fuchsias, and many others, have been submitted to a course of improvement ; and to the satisfactory results obtained, exhibitions in all portions cf this country, and gardens in both the old and new world, have amply testified. As one stage in this onward career it may be well to note the novel¬ ties that made their appearance from Swanley during the past year, and also some of those which will be placed in commerce during the present year. Fuchsias. — As one of the classes of plants to which Mr. Cannell first gave his attention the Fuchsias merit prominent notice. Novelties, however, are not numerous amongst these now, and apparently so great a degree of perfection was obtained in the past that there is little room left for improvement. A few are occasionally added, and well merit the attention of growers and lovers of Fuchsias generally. One of last year’s novelties is Nellie Morton, a seedling from the well-known Miss Lucy Finnis, and with similarity of habit and colour, differing, however, in the flowers being less double and in smaller clusters, so that the branches are more erect than in Lucy Finnis. It is very free, graceful, and attractive, and will no doubt become as great a favourite as the older form. A variety that will be sent out during the present year is Mr. Rundell, which was raised by Mr. Todman, and is an improvement on Earl of Beaconsfield. The great recom¬ mendations of the novelty in comparison with the older variety Eig. 11. — Chrysanthemum Star of Whyke. is the better form of the flowers, its quick growth, and free- flowering qualities, in other respects it is similar to that. Pelargoniums. — Continued progress is being made with these plants in nearly all sections, and their numbers are increasing extremely fast. The chief difficulty now is in selection, as few can grow one-tenth of the really good varieties offered, but the advantage of having so many to select from is that most varied tastes can be suited. Zonal Pelargoniums have deservedly re¬ ceived much attention in recent years, and at Swanley the large collections of both single and double varieties afford abundant evidence of their usefulness. For two very pretty single varieties Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons were awarded certificates in 1882. and the honour was well bestowed. These are Improved White Clipper and Mrs. Gordon. The former, as its name indicates, is an 46 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 18, 1883. improvement on White Clipper, with large trusses of pure white well-formed flowers that are produced very freely ; and the other has brilliant scarlet flowers with a well-marked white eye which renders the scarlet hue still more striking. During the present season a dozen new round-flowered Zonal varieties are to be sent out from Swatdey. Six of these were raised by Mr. Windsor — namely, Snowball, white ; Mrs. Naish, bright red, like Mrs. Moore ; Mr. C. L. Teesdale, scarlet ; Bayswater Burley, salmon, white eye ; Peter Henderson, reddish salmon ; and Mr. G. Brunning, deep red. Five are from Mr. George — viz., Emperor, crimson scarlet ; Favourite, cerise scarlet; Edith George, reddish pink; Surrey Scarlet, and Crimson Gem ; while one, Kate Greenaway, was raised by Mr. Harrison Weir, and resembles Lizzie Brooks. All these are distinguished by the fine form of the flowers. In other sections of Pelargoniums several handsome varieties are ready for distribution. As a bedding variety Miss Blanche is likely to prove very popular, the colour being a rich purple-pink, and the flowers in large trusses. In the Hybrid Nosegay section Aurore Boreale and Gloire Lyonnaise are the best, the former light scarlet and the latter rosy-scarlet. Amongst the Ivy-leaf forms the grand single variety Masterpiece, with rich crimson flowers, and the doubles, Jeanne d’Arc, white, and La Rosffire, rosy-lilac, are the best. Double and single Zonals from Lemoine include what may be termed the Egyptian series — -viz., double, Admiral Seymour, Khedive, and Sir Garnet Wolseley ; single, L’Egypte and Tel-el-Kebir, of varied colours. Show and Regal varieties are also represented by several novelties of merit. Chrysanthemums. — An enormous collection of these is grown at Swanley, compiising nearly all the named varieties in cultiva¬ tion. Three very striking additions were made to them last year. Lord Wolseley, which was certificated at Kensington and several Chrysanthemum exhibitions, is a distinct sport from Prince Alfred, with large handsome blooms of a peculiar bronzy hue. It will undoubtedly become a favourite exhibition variety. Mrs. John Crossfield is a sport from White Globe, with large, well- formed, pinkish blooms, and it was certificated at Liverpool. The last of the trio is styled by Mr. Cannell “ a double Pompon,” under the name of the Star of Whyke. It is, however, larger than ordinary Pompons, as the woodcut (fig. 11, p. 45) shows, and is chiefly remarkable for its floriferousness and the long period during which it blooms, being one of the latest, continuing to near Christmas. It possesses all the characters of a really useful variety, either as affording a supply a flowers or for decorative purposes. Another useful late variety is Mrs. Carey, which is flowering at the present time. It is very distinct from other varieties, and, as Mr. Cannell states, “it will not bloom until it has had its Christmas holiday.” Dahlias. — A collection of similar extent to that of the pre¬ ceding is one of the Swanley features ; Show, Fancy, Bouquet, and single varieties being largely represented. Of the last, however, it is only necessary to speak here, as it is to these that the chief additions have been made. Of the Gracilis type, one of the best of all the singles, the forms luteo-nana, yellow ; rubro-nana, bright scarlet and concinna, orange scarlet, are very notable. Three fine single varieties were certificated at Kensington — viz., Marguerite, deep rose ; Tyro, purple shaded ; and Yellow Gem, bright yellow. Those are of a taller-growing race than the pre¬ ceding, but the ^blooms are of excellent form. Seven new and beautiful varieties have been selected for distribution from a large number of seedlings. Many others of equal merit, such as the “ White Juarezii ” Constance, are also included in the forth¬ coming novelties. Primulas. — The Swanley Red, Purple, and White strains of Primula sinensis have established their fame, but fresh varieties are being constantly added. One that was certificated last year — namely, Princess of Wales, is unquestionably one of the most distinct, delicate, and useful of the recent improvements. The flowers are flushed with a soft pink tint, and are borne in large compact trusses well above the foliage. A most distinct Primrose, and one the utility of which is already being widely recognised, is Harbinger, which Mr. Cannell has secured for distribution. The flowers are much above the ordinary size, white with a deep orange eye — a striking contrast ; and as it shares the free character of its relatives it may be relied upon as useful either indoors or out. Abutilons. — The valuable qualities of these plants for winter decoration are now well known, but their popularity is still increasing. Six of the best of Mr. George’s seedlings have been selected for sending out in 1883, and they maintain the high character for which the Putney plants are famous. The best are Belle of Surrey, is of a delicate rosy hue ; Dazzle, bright shining red ; Le Grande, rosy red ; Rosy Morn, bright rose ; and Striata splendida, bright orange. All these possess the symmetry of form in the flowers combined with sturdy habit and clear bright colours. The woodcut (fig. 12, page 49), shows the general form and size of the flowers of this improved race of Abutilons. Tuberous Begonias have been magnificent, some extremely large-flowered and brilliantly coloured varieties having been obtained. At the present time the Primulas and Violets are the chief features in the nursery, several houses containing an enormous stock of these plants. In innumerable other genera additions have been made during the past year, but the above are sufficient to show the character and extent of advance. EARLY CAULIFLOWERS AND LETTUCES. Gardeners in the south, having quite a different climate to deal with from their brethren in the north, may not always com¬ prehend the difficulties we have to contend against. The notes which follow may not, in consequence, appeal to their sympathies. Northwards, where both Cauliflowers and Lettuces are somewhat difficult to manage through winter, they will be better understood. It is a common practice to grow Cauliflowers under handlights in all parts of the country, and from these the earliest crop is gathered. In the north, however, a break is likely to occur when depending alone on autumn-sown plants to follow these. I have been in the habit of sowing seed in heat at this time in order to make sure of overcoming this difficulty, and at the same time a little Lettuce seed is sown. The best sort of Cauliflower for this purpose is Veitch’s Early Forcing, a new variety which has been found most satisfactory. Early Dwarf Mammoth should also be employed to afford a succession to the above. The earliest Lettuce is one of the All-the-Year-Round type, or, where size is not a necessity, the Tom Thumb type may be used. In my experience these are not appreciated, and that best of all Lettuces, Hicks’ Hardy White Cos, is employed for use at all seasons. The treatment of both kinds of vegetables is very much alike. The seedlings are raised in a temperature of about 55°, and when well up they are kept near to the glass, in due time being trans¬ ferred to a cold frame until ready for pricking out singly in a bed prepared as follows. On a hard bottom a thin layer of Mush¬ room-bed refuse is made firm, and on this a couple of inches depth of compost made of half loam and half manure is placed. Into this the young plants are put out about 2£ inches apart each way. Boards placed round the sides and ends admit the placing of old sashes above the plants. In March they are ready for transplant¬ ing. If the weather becomes cold after they are planted we place a twig or some evergreen over each plant, and find this of benefit as a protection. This sowing of Lettuces is planted between the rows of yearling Strawberries, and are cut before the fruit is ready. We invariably have our finest Lettuces under this treatment. The Cauliflowers, I find, derive great benefit from a slight dressing of sulphate of ammonia to each plant. — B. ANEMONE JAPONICA. Much has been written on the merits of this plant for beds and borders, but a few more words of praise will not be out of place. I consider it to be one of the most showy and useful plants for the herbaceous border, flowering as it does for a con¬ siderable time through the latter part of summer and autumn months. I saw it used last September with good effect in a round bed about 15 feet in diameter. The bed in question was filled with plants varying from 3 to 4 feet high, the taller in the centre. I never saw this Anemone grown finer, and when in flower about the middle of September nothing could surpass it in beauty. Another bed was planted with the rose-coloured variety and growing equally as strong. Near to these two beds of Anemones was a bed about the same size planted with the purple Clematis Jackmanii rambling over sticks that were arched over the bed, the highest part of this bed being about the same height as the Anemones. These beds were backed up at some distance with a mixed border containing at intervals plants of the white and rose-coloured variety of Anemone. The effect viewed from a little distance was such that would not soon be forgotten. I have never seen anything more pleasing than these beds when in flower. Anyone pretending to possess an herbaceous border should grow this plant, and in fact no garden, however small, should be with¬ out it. Where there is sufficient room it should be grown in quantity, as it is extremely useful for cutting purposes. The flowers being pure white are always appreciated. The flowers may be used in many ways ; for filling vases it is very effective associated with other flowers, or, as I have seen, vases filled with it entirely with a few fronds of Ferns. Anyone wishing to increase their stock of plants should do so now while the weather is open. Autumn is also a good time for JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 18, 1883 ] 47 removing the plants after the foliage has died. The best way to increase this plant is by division of the roots, for although it flowers very freely I have never been fortunate in obtaining seeds, but probably this has been an oversight. The old plants should be lifted and divided. The strongest pieces will flower the follow¬ ing autumn, and if a favourable season many of the smaller ones will produce a few flowers. If it is desirable to have a bed or a large clump of them, the strongest should be selected for the middle, the medium-sized plants following, and the smaller ones for the outside ; by so planting all the flowering plants will be together. I find the general height of this plant is given at between 2 and 3 feet, but under good cultivation it greatly exceeds this height. A rich loam suits it well with a top-dressing of de¬ cayed leaves and manure forked in through the winter. — G. W. A SOUTH-WESTERN ASPECT FOR GRAPES. The readers of the Journal must not infer from the above that it is the best aspect in which to grow Grapes, but that as good results can be obtained from houses erected in a south-western aspect as from any other, all other things being equal. Those who have to buy ground for the purpose of erecting houses for the production of maiket Grapes, not only build on the most favourable aspects, but through necessity more than choice on aspects less favourable. The ground is economised t© admit of the greatest quantity of glass being built in a given space ; they would be taking the money out of their own pockets if they did not do so. In many gardens there are to be seen considerable ranges of houses in what may be termed westerly aspects, espe¬ cially in market establishments. The Vines are selected for the different positions, and consequently give as great satisfaction as those which are growing in more favourable circumstances. The south-western aspect is not good for Vines that require to be early started, as fire heat must be used in excess to raise the morning temperature ; but if their roots are all inside and under command they are not long in regaining what was lost. A south aspect is the best for growing most kinds of fruit, whether they may be planted in span-roofed or lean-to houses. A south aspect with a point east is held in great favour by some of the best Grape-growers of the present day, and especially those who believe the morning sun has a great influence on colouring white Grapes, Muscats in particular. Equally good Grape-growers, on the other hand, seem to think the effect of the morning sun in colouring very questionable, and that good cultivation carried out with the houses facing south can produce equally good results. Houses that incline eastward have the advantage of both a quick and high temperature in the early part of the day, instead of raising the temperature by fire heat. The advantage gained in the morning by an early rise from sun heat may be said to be counterbalanced by the heat being early out of the house in the afternoon, but when closed early with a high temperature and accompanied by a little fire heat in the pipes, the effects are as beneficial to the Vines as in cases where the sun lingers a little longer in the afternoon. — Northern. CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES FOR BEDS. The best time to plant Carnations and Picotees is October, as they become thoroughly established in the soil, whilst otherwise they require frequent examination to keep them from being disturbed by the frost. This season having been so wet has pre¬ vented planting as yet, but now I shall commence planting them the third week in February as I did last year. Another advan¬ tage of growing them in beds is that they do not require planting every year as they do when in pots, as the finest blooms are gene¬ rally to be had from them the second year. All surplus plants when layered can be removed, leaving about four plants to each stool. A plot of ground that has been occupied by Potatoes is most suitable for them, as the wireworm will have been taken out with the Potatoes. If a Potato patch is not to be had dig the ground over, carefully destroying all the wirew'orms that can be seen. The most suitable soil for them is a good marl. The Carnation is, however, very accommodating and will grow in nearly any kind. I have used light soil, pressing it firmly around the plants, whilst in strong soil I do not press the soil so firmly. In planting I raise the beds a few inches above the surrounding ground, planting the plants in twos or threes according to their strength. The clumps are a foot apart and 15 to 18 inches be¬ tween the rows. Only two rows are placed in a bed, leaving a pathway between that and the next bed, so that they are con¬ venient for layering. A plan I adopt with particular sorts is to lift them and pot and layer them ; by doing this the plants will give seed after layering. Mr. Dodwell was the first to inform me of this, and I have since proved it to be so. The plants after being layered in the ordinary way never set any seed. If the ground is poor it is a good plan to dig in some well- decomposed manure, that from an old hotbed will do very well. Before planting thoroughly incorporate it, and if at all sour give a sprinkling of lime, digging it in a few days before planting. If these simple cultural directions are followed any grower may succeed in growing Carnations and Picotees in beds. I will give a few simple cultural directions occasionally on growing the plants in beds. The following is a list of the varieties I have found the best suited for culture in beds : — CARNATIONS. Scarlet Bizarres. — Admiral Curzon, John Burnett, Edward Adams. Crimson Bizarres. — Rifleman, Lord Milton, J. D. Hextall. Pink and Purple Bizarres. — Falconbridge, Win. Murray, Sarah Payne. Purple Flakes. — Dr. Foster, Jas. Douglas, and Squire Meynell. Scarlet Flakes. — Dan Godfrey, Sportsman, and Clipper. Bose Flakes. — Sibyl, John Keet, and Rose of Stapleford. PICOTEES. Heavy Bed. — John Smith, J. B. Bryant, Brunette. Light Bad. — Sarah Elizabeth, Thomas William, Violet Douglas. Heavy Purple. — Alliance, Zerlina, Tinnie. Light Purple. — Ann Lord, Alice (medium), Master Nichol, and Her Majesty. Heavy Bose or Scarlet. — Fanny Hellen, Lady Holmesdale, and Mrs. Rudd. Light Bose or Scarlet. — Mrs. Adams, Mrs. Allcroft, and Miss Wood. — G. Rudd. MAKING AND RENOVATING LAWNS. Lawns are made for the purpose of ornamentation, for recrea¬ tion, or for both, but in the latter case there is the disadvantage of their being disfigured from being browned or made patchy. It is always advisable, when practicable, to have separate grounds for recreation, and these should be so extensive as to admit of a change, so that when one part becomes at all unsightly it may be allowed to recover its freshness. As ground for recreation depends in a great measure upon the goodness of the turf — its even surface, closeness, and toughness, with freshness — it is essential that the ground be good, and if not naturally such its improvement must be effected to secure a good growth of grass, whether by sowing seeds or laying turf. Efficient drainage is of primary importance, and not less so is the loosening of the soil to an even depth to admit of the water passing through the soil readily. Heavy soils will be improved in texture and allow of the water percolating freely away by a free mixing of ashes with the soil, and light soils by an admixture of wTell-pul- verised clay, so as to render it more retentive of moisture. To allow' of the water passing away from the surface speedily after showers it is not unusual to cover the surface before laying the turf wdth a couple of inches thickness of ashes ; or, if the turf is to be obtained by sowing, cover the ashes with a couple of inches of fine rich soil. This answers well enough in heavy soil, but where the soil is sandy and the subsoil of a porous nature is both superfluous and injurious. Where good turf is to be had it is the readiest method of secur¬ ing a good sward, but, failing this, grass seeds sown in proper season will soon make a good turf. The most suitable time for sowing grass seeds is during April, and preferably in dry calm weather, but with an early prospect of rain. Soils differ some¬ what in texture, and the mixture will need to be composed of grass seeds suitable to the soil ; but, as a rule, it should be com¬ posed principally of the harder-textured grasses, as the Hard Fes¬ cue (Festuca duriuscula), Red Fescue (Festuca rubra), Fine-leaved Fescue (Festuca tenuifolia), and that best of all lawn grasses, Crested Dog’s-tail (Cynosurus cristatus). A small proportion of Perennial Rye Grass (Lolium perenne), of which Pacey’s is a fine selection, should be added to act as nurses to the finer grasses and aid in the speedier formation of the sward. Clovers should be excluded, for though they soon make a beautiful surface, it will not bear the same amount of use as turf formed of the harder- textured grasses, and is liable to remain longer damp after rain or dew. Then as to the surroundings of grounds for recreation, it is absolutely necessary that they be not of too close or dense a character as to prevent the free access of air, and yet they should be sufficiently compact and high to secure privacy. Stiff JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 48 [ January 18, 1883. formal outlines should, as far as possible, be avoided, such as hedges or screens of Yew, Arbor Yitse, See., as they are extremely monotonous. Evergreens that naturally have a tufted appearance, as low-growing evergreen shrubs, Rhododendrons, and Berberis Darwini, with the choicer description of deciduous flowering shrubs, disposed in wavy rather than in straight lines, will afford a pleasing contour and variety. Tall trees must be at a reason¬ able distance, and yet a spreading Beech tree or Lime readily accessible and provided with seats will be much appreciated in the intervals between games. Arbours and summer houses, good as they may be in their way as refuge from a passing shower, or a shelter from heat to non-players, or resting spot for the heated or fatigued player, are inadvisable from their being suggestive of complete seclusion or retreat from the affairs of ordinary life, and are incompatible with the associates of a playground. Temporary shelters from.sun and rain answer their purpose much better, as for instance, tents or awned seats. — G. Abbey. (To be continued.) EASTER BEURRE AND BEURRE RANCE PEARS. The first-named Pear (referred to on page 11) is with me not to be depended on. Although blooming profusely, and often setting a heavy crop of fruit, very few, considering the quantity, are of any use, as they crack seriously, and are very often covered with black spots. The soil is a deep loam, rather stiff, but well drained, and although this variety is trained to a wall in the best part of the garden as regards aspect and soil, the produce is anything but good. Our largest tree of this kind (fan-trained) had quite a bushel and a half of fruit on it this season, but the majority had to be thrown to the pigs, it being so badly spotted and cracked. The rest that were stored in the fruit-room are not keeping well, and will be of little value. Beurrd Prance, I find, is much more useful, and as a January and February Pear is very good, being juicy and rich in texture, but cannot be depended on only from walls with an exposure to the south. This, and last year too, most of the fruit was good for dessert purposes, many being from 6 to 9 inches in length ; but this variety, with many others with me, is liable to crack. The trees of these two kinds are old, but are enriched with decayed manure about the roots annually. The fruit, too, is left on the trees as long as possible, being generally the last two kinds that are gathered. A few trees of these two kinds planted in the open are of little use, only very few fruits on them coming to perfec¬ tion. I intend to saw them down and graft early kinds upon them, as they are certainly more profitable. Beurrd Ranee I could recommend as a winter Pear to anyone having south wall space sufficient to spare, to be grafted on the Pear stock, and the branches to be trained horizontally a foot apart, not forgetting to mulch in winter with decayed manure, as it tends to keep the roots near the surface. — A. Harding-, Orton Hall Gardens, Peterborough. MY SUBURBAN GARDEN. (A COLUMN TOR AMATEURS.) “ Didn’t I tell you that if you sent a letter to an editor of one of the gardening journals that he would insert it ? I had no doubt whatever he would do so. Learned and scientific disqui¬ sitions are all very well, but unless I am very much mistaken the majority prefer plainer fare ; and while I do not go so far as to say that ‘ he who drives fat oxen must himself be fat,’ I am strongly of opinion that no one can communicate information that is so useful to amateurs as an amateur himself who records his own practice. Go on as you have begun. I shall look out for the next edition.” Such was the letter which last Saturday’s post brought me from my horticultural friend ; and although I did not in the first instance tell him to which paper I should address my letter, he making no suggestion on that point, he has evidently been on the “lookout,” and I have obtained at the least owe reader. I will take this as encouraging and proceed. 1 wish to say a little more about my glass structures, or rather about plant houses generally, for these are increasing apace, and I perceive that money is being wasted in their erection. The first house I had built was the most elaborate of all, cost by far the most money, and has given the least satisfactory results of any. It is a conspicuous span-roof, very lofty, with upright side lights (which do not open), 8 feet high, and a lantern roof containing ventilators. A flat latticework table for plants runs round the sides over the hot-water pipes, and a stage step above step occupies the centre of the house. Why I had such a house built I do not know. The plants cannot be watered without climbing up amongst them, and the result is that those at the top are often too dry. “ But did you not state for what purpose the house was required ?” some reader may ask. Yes, I did, in a way. I told the builder I wanted it for “ Camellias, Azaleas, Fuchsias, Palms, Liliums, and all those sorts of things,” and he appeared to know in a moment as if by intuition ; and with a “ Leave it to me, sir, leave it to me,” the affair was settled. Now the plants in this “ great mistake,” as we call it, never have done well. The Camellias cast their buds and have too many brown leaves ; the Palms have a yellow hue that is not agreeable ; Fuchsias get infested with thrips ; and small plants, such as Cine¬ rarias and Calceolarias, fall a prey to aphides. The truth is the house is not adapted for plants in pots ; it is too hot and dry in summer, and in winter makes sad work with the coal heap. A correspondent last week referred to unsuitable structures for plants. This is a case in point. Such erections as this are plant¬ killing, not plant-growing houses, and I would warn all inexpe¬ rienced amateurs against erecting them. Now, as I cannot grow plants in this house, what am I to do with it? “Clear out the stage, take up the brick floor, make a bed in the centre, and plant Palms, Araucarias, and such-like,” says one friend ; but purchasing plants of that kind and soil in sufficient quantity for supporting them is a costly experiment ; and, besides, I do not want such big plants. No, I shall turn it it into an orchard house. I believe the natural soil will grow Peaches and Pears very well, as they grow well in the open ; but fruit does not always follow the blossom. My plan is to plant cordon Pears on the outside of the house and take them through like Vines, training them either vertically or obliquely up the sides at intervals of 3 feet. At this distance sufficient light will pass between them and through the roof for the Peaches in the centre, which will be grown the same as they are grown in America — namely, as standards, as I apprehend I shall have an American climate. What a sight an American Peach orchard is ! Once seen it is not likely to be forgotten by any traveller from the old country. But to the Pears. As each cordon can attain a length of at the least 10 feet by curving over the path, I think the plan worth trying. So much for an initial mistake in building and the proposed remedy. To proceed again. The next house I erected was much less pre¬ tentious. I think the more experience a person has the greater is his disposition to approach simplicity in most things. His zest for doing something greater than his neighbours becomes dulled, and he adopts a more common-sense practice of doing that which will be best for himself. With this object I erected a low span- roofed structure, 25 feet long and 12 feet wide, with a 3-feet path down the centre, and side stages each 4^- feet wide. The walls are 2 feet 9 inches high, and glass lights with sliding ventilators, above them, 1 foot 3 inches, the height from the floor to the apex of the roof being 8 feet. This is a serviceable house, and nearly everything grows well in it. The two shelves 15 inches from the glass overhead on each side of the path are especially useful and also convenient, being only 5 feet 6 inches from the floor. The roof ventilators consist simply of three 18-inch “ skylights ” on each side on hinges and perforated rods for affixing on a pin where required ; thus the lights can be opened from an inch to a foot according to the weather. This is no doubt very rudi¬ mentary, but the plan has this advantage — it answers well. The stage is 2 feet 9 inches from the ground, and 15 inches from the glass roof in front. But for the shelves, which hold as many plants in a small state as can be grown to decorative size on the side stages, the house need not have been so high or the roof so steep ; nor do I see that the side lights are of any real service. The house is divided so as to form a warm and cool greenhouse, and with all its faults suits both the plants and myself. The side stages of this house are of open latticework, which I have found is decidedly not the best base for the majority of plants. The air, often too dry, rising up through the pots and striking the under sides of the leaves, is not good for such plants as Cinerarias, Cyclamens, Calceolarias, Primulas, Begonias, Gloxinias, Hyacinths, and Ferns. All these plants thrive much better and are less liable to the attacks of insects when the pots stand on a surface of ashes, gravel, or cocoa-nut fibre refuse kept more or less moist according to the season of the year and weather. That this is so I have no doubt whatever ; indeed, if it were not I think we should not find so many what I may term close stages in nurseries ; and why with that experience before us persons will go on making open latticework stages passes my comprehension. I will have no more of them, nor do I advise their adoption by other amateurs who wish to grow softwooded plants in the best manner with the least trouble in watering and fumigating. My stages are now covered. The best and cheapest method of JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 18, 1883. ] 49 doing this was the subject of much consideration and discussion. Boards, slates, asphalt roofing-sheets were all under review, but we wanted something thinner and cheaper. My man solved the problem, or at least a piece of tarred brown paper he accidentally came across did it for him. Thick carpet paper, the kind sold for placing under carpets, was procured. One side was smeared with hot tar and thickly dusted with sand ; this side having dried, the sheets were turned over and other side treated similarly. Nothing could have answered better. They were placed on the stage, covered with ashes, and these surfaced with crushed shells. Three years have passed since then, and how long the paper- flooring will last I cannot tell, but no doubt for three years longer, and we are well satisfied with the experiment. In connection with the use of tar it may be well to state that it must never be introduced into a house with plants until it has thoroughly dried, for in a moist state it is dangerous. On one occasion towards the end of the summer a vessel of warm tar was placed in a Cucumber frame and left there all night to j try the effects of the fumes on red spider. It was very striking, for I believe it killed every insect, as it certainly did every leaf, on the plants, while the fruits when cut had a very pronounced tar flavour and could not be eaten. I have more to say on glass structures, but at present must leave the subject and describe my method of pruning Vines, this being, so I am told, a slight de¬ parture from the stereotyped practice. The vineries are crowded with plants, which need at the least glimpses of light in summer. The rods are 3 feet apart, hence the laterals when trained in the ordinary manner com¬ pletely covered the roof with foliage, and the glass was scarcely visible on looking upwards. This the plants did not like, nor were the Grapes very superior. I thought I should, therefore, lose little by an experi¬ ment first tried last year and now just repeated. Instead of cutting the laterals off close to the spurs I only removed every alternate one, and tied the others in lengths of a foot or more close to the main rods. In the spring I had such a break of strong growths as I never had before, and it was apparent that nine- tenths of them must be removed. The plan adopted was this : — The best bunch was selected on each lateral (and I had a choice of from three to six), all the rest of the growths being gradually rubbed off except one at the base. The bearing shoots were stopped, some at the bunch, others at one leaf beyond, and a young shoot from each spurred lateral kept and trained up the rods for the fruiting the following year. The crop was by far the best I ever had, the bunches hanging in a close row directly under the rods, and by removing a leaf here and there from the bunch-bearing laterals those for succession are now as good as I can desire them, while all the summer I had a comparatively light house for plants instead of, as before, a dark one. This, the Peach system of pruning, more than answered my expectations, and I shall follow it until it fails, which I am sanguine will not be this year nor next, nor the next after that. And now ye great gardeners — men who have taught me so much by which I have profited — have ye not sometimes taught too much ? Have ye, in insisting that Vine shoots must be stopped one leaf at least, and more preferably, beyond the bunch, found by full and fair trials that that is the only method of securing good Grapes ? If so your Vines are different from mine, for the Grapes stopped at the bunch and the leaf there preserved — none beyond — were quite as good as the others that were treated in the orthodox manner, while more light was allowed to the foliage of the successional laterals. Dare anyone venture to try. this out-of- the-way method of pruning on one Vine this year 1 I have tried it on a dozen ; but then I am answerable to no one if I fail, of which untoward result, however, I have not the remotest fear. — M. D. Lewisia kediviva. — A charming little alpine with a long fleshy rootstock, producing a tuft of narrow fleshy leaves, and large flowers like a Mesembryanthemum, of a bright magenta-rose colour, with a diameter of 3 to 4 inches when expanded, which it does during sun¬ shine. It comes from the western States of America, and is quite hardy with us if planted in a proper position. Mr. Backhouse of York places it in vertical clefts in his rockery, and it thrives well. If this is not done it should have a thoroughly drained position and sunny, and be planted in limestone chippings, crocks, and sand, with a little loam added, so that during the winter the fleshy rootstocks will be comparatively dry. L. brachycarpa is similar, but produces white flowers. It should be treated in the same way j mixed together in clumps they are very pretty. — X. MUSHROOM CULTURE. The Mushroom is grown with more or les3 success in most gardening establishments, and under various conditions. By way of adding another name to the list of successful Mushroom growers which have already been recorded in the Journal, I wish to men¬ tion that of Mr. Charles Warden of Clarendon Park Gardens, Salisbury, where on the flags under a step stage in a lean-to house are two beds which are specially worthy of notice, as demon¬ strating the good account to which hundreds of such places could be turned without in any way interfering with the special use of the house. These beds are about a foot deep, enclosed by boards of the same depth, and were spawned when the heat of the beds was not likely to rise above 70° or 75°, and cased over with soil, beaten firmly together with the back of the spade in October last, and then covered with clean straw which subsequently was damped over occasionally with tepid water from the syringe. The main temperature of the house being about 52°. They are now, as they have done for several weeks past, producing abun¬ dance of fine Mushrooms, many of which are 5 and 6 inches in diameter. Mr. Warden is equally successful in the production of Mushrooms in the Mushroom house proper, as in the case above cited, and the same remark applies to the culture of them out of doors, as amply testified by a small ridge (about 12 feet long) which was made last autumn, and from which he has recently gathered between 25 and 30 lbs. of excellent Mushrooms. This is only one of many instances resulting from the series of ex¬ cellent articles which appeared in the pages of the Journal some time since by Mr. Wright. — Visitob. [A sample of the Mushrooms referred to has been sent to us, and the specimens are very fine indeed.] Fig. 12.— Abutilon. (See page 46.) i 50 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. r January is, im. The following persons]'are recommended by the Council to be appointed to the offices of President, Treasurer, Secretary, and Auditors of the Royal Horticultural Society, at the annual meeting on the 13th February, 1883 : — President, Right Hon. Lord Aberdare ; Treasurer, William Haughton ; Secretary, Major F. Mason ; Auditors, R. A. Aspinall, John Lee, and James F. West. The vacating members of the Council are Colonel R. Trevor Clarke, Rev. H. Harpur Crewe, and J. T. D. Llewelyn ; and the following gentlemen are recommended by the Council to fill the above-mentioned ordinary vacancies — Sir Charles W. Strick¬ land, Bart., Sir P. Cunliffe Owen, K.C.M.G., C.B., C.I.E., and Colonel Beddome. - We are informed that'MR. E. Tudgey, who was recently gardener to J. F. G. Williams, Esq., Worcester, has commenced business as a nurseryman at Waltham Cross. He has purchased the handsome specimen plants with which, on behalf of his employer, he"'has gained so 'many honours at the London and provincial exhibitions, and in future, therefore, he will appear in the nurserymen’s classes if he continues showing, as he un¬ doubtedly intends to do. - Messrs. James Carter & Co. desire us to state that their collection of Primulas will be on view at the Nurseries, Forest^Hill, up to January 31st. It is necessary that intending visitors should obtain a card of admission at their offices, 237 and 238, High Holborn, London, W.C. .... cverm* .swa, ~~~~~ ■ - A Society for the encouragement of the cultivation of flowers has [been formed in Lerwick, Shetland. Sheriff Rampini has been appointed President of the Society, and Mr. R. B. Hunterf Secretary and Treasurer. This, writes “ Northern Amateur,” shows that floriculture is receiving an impetus, under influential patronage, [even in the far north of Scotland. - A subscriber writes : — “ I have amongst a small collec¬ tion of Orchids a plant of Dendrobium fimbriatbm, and one of Cymbidium [Mastersii, which, though growing vigorously, I am unable to bloom, although I have treated them like ether Dendrobes, for example'D. densiflorum, clavatum, &c. Will any of your subscribers say whether they have experienced similar difficulty, and if successful the mode of culture they have followed 1 ” - The Report on the Condition and Progress of the Royal Gardens, Kew, in 1S81 has just been issued, and apart from the particulars immediately concerning the home establish¬ ment, it contains a number of interesting and instructive reports upon various important subjects in connection with the products of our colonies and dependencies. This portion of the Report annually increases in usefulness, and conveys some idea of the extent and importance of the work in which Kew has so large a share. To these we shall return on a future occasion, as many of the matters treated of have a general interest. The number of visitors [to the gardens during the year was greater than any previously recorded — namely, 836, 676, an ample proof, if any were needed, that while maintaining its position as the leading scientific institution in the horticultural and botanical world, it yet con¬ tinues to increase in popularity with the general public. The many improvements which have been effected under the direction of Sir William and Sir Joseph Hooker have greatly tended to this, the efforts of the latter having also been aided by the Curator, Mr. John Smith, and more recently by the Assistant Director, Professor Dyer. - Mr. T. S. Murphy, Hillington Hall, writes : — “ I was glad to see your correspondent Mr. F. Richardson’s remarks on the hand¬ some flowering plant Bougainvillea glabra. A small plant of it was placed out here last March against the back wall of the Melon house. It was inserted in the path, which consists of sandy gravel, and to see it growing and flowering was most astonishing. It bloomed the whole season, and supplied us with a large amount of cut flowers which we found very useful. I certainly would not recommend giving any sort of manure whatever, as poor soil seems to suit it best.” - A correspondent, “ J. D.,” requests information on the subject of vegetation for A rookery, and with the object of eliciting it we print his letter as follows : — “ I have just entered on a place where there is a large rookery, and underneath the old trees that compose it no vegetation is left alive. What would be my best way of trying to get some sort of green carpet below it ? I do not wish to make away with the rooks. Would any kind of Sedum grow under such circumstances ? or would Ground Ivy be available ? Something that would hide the bareness, and still admit of the masses of fallen leaves being gathered up pretty readily, appears to me to be the desideratum.” - Mr. Allis, gardener to Joseph Shuttleworth, Esq., Old Warden, Biggleswade, has sent us a sample of Pearson’s Golden Queen Grape, which we have seldom if ever seen in such good condition. The berries are of a clear amber colour without spot or blemish, and the flavour is particularly refreshing, having a delicate and agreeable aroma of the Muscat. Mr. Allis grows this Grape with the Black Alicante, of which he considers it the best white companion, both growing and bearing with the same freedom, ripening at the same time, and keeping equally well. - As Forest tree planting on waste land3 is a matter of considerable interest to the public at present, we record the following example of extensive planting : — “ By directions of Sir Henry Loch, K.G., Her Majesty’s Commissioner of Woods and Forest?, a large extent of Crown lands in the Isle of Man is about to be planted with forest and ornamental trees. About five hundred acres are now being so planted on the mountain called Archallagan, where cabins have been erected by the con¬ tractors for the accommodation of the men. Messrs. Little and Ballantyne, Knowefield Nurseries, Carlisle, have been entrusted with the contract, one of the largest of the kind ever entered into in Great Britain, and already the first instalment of a quarter of a million of young trees have been shipped from the Carlisle Nurseries for the work.” - “ G. S.” writes : — “ Easter Beurre Pear is one of the most reliable in this locality (South Yorkshire) both for pro¬ ductiveness and quality. We are now heading down trees of inferior varieties, intending to graft them with this, which I consider to be one of our best late Pears. This year it has ripened much earlier than usual, also Glou Morceau and Josephine de Malines, being all ripe and sent to table before the present time. The above are the three best late Pears here. The soil is on strong magnesian limestone. Other varieties that I have found to succeed well are Jargonelle, Williams’ Bon Chretien, Marie Louise, Beurre Diel, and Louise Bonne of Jersey, each in their season being of good quality.” - Mr. W. Jenkins, The Gardens, Aldin Grange, Durham, writing respecting late-flowering Chrysanthemums, ob¬ serves : — “ I send you a couple of blooms of Chrysanthemum Guernsey Nugget, to show what a useful variety it is, flowering as it does into the new year. I find Princess of Teck and Beauty of Stoke Newington good companions to it, all three varieties being dwarf-growing and well adapted for conservatory work. I think the first-named is not sufficiently known.” The blooms received January is, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 51 well merit the praise our correspondent bestows upon them. Guernsey Nugget, very bright yellow, fresh, and of good form ; Beauty of Stoke Newington, pale pink, nearly white ; and Princess Teck, pure white, the blooms very compact and distinct. They form a trio of very useful late varieties. - “A Northern Amateur,” referring to his notes on page 32, writes : — “ Allow me to notice that in speaking of the construction of the houses at Fedali, I intended to use the words ‘ well raised ’ after ‘ the lights in every house were to be seen.’ I intended also to say that Mr. Dickson of the Orrueau Park, Belfast, * has nearly discarded the named sorts ’ of Verbenas, not his own seedlings. Hasty and indistinct writing may have caused these errata.” - A meeting in support of a profosed Chrysanthe¬ mum Show at Lincoln took place last Thursday evening. The Mayor, W. T. Page, jun., Esq., took the chair. The meeting was attended by a number of gentlemen and practical gardeners well known for their interest in horticultural matters. It was resolved to form a Lincoln Chrysanthemum Society, with the objects of promoting the cultivation of the Chrysanthemum and of holding an annual exhibition some time in November. A sub-committee, consisting of Mr. Whitbread, Mr. Buff ham, Mr. Cooling, head gardener at Monks’ Manor ; and Mr. Wipf, head gardener at East Cliff House ; with Mr. B. J. Ward as Chairman, and Dr. G. M. Lowe as Hon. Sec., was appointed to carry out details and issue a schedule as promptly as possible - The Rosarians’ Year Book. — The issue of this wel¬ come annual for 1883 (Bemrose & Sons) is now in the hands of many readers, to whom it will doubtlessly prove even more accep¬ table than previous editions. It includes entertaining articles by the Revs. H. B. Biron, J. A. Williams, and the Editor, H. Hony- wood D'Ombrain, with Messrs. J. Hinton, D. T. Fish, E. R. Whit- well, G. Paul, A. H. Gray, Hubert Bensted, Edward Mawley, and C. H. Hawtrey, upon various subjects more or less connected with Rose-growing and exhibiting ; in addition being given excellent photographic portraits of George Baker, Esq., of Reigate, Vice- President of the National Rose Society, and of E. R. Whitwell, Esq., the winner of the Amateurs’ Challenge Trophy in 1882. As an example of “light reading” we propose to publish Mr. Hawtrey’s amusing article in a future issue. - - Gardening Appointment. — Mr. James Clark, formerly gardener to the late E. Hermon, Esq., Wyfold Court, Henley, has entered on his duties as head gardener to Lord Camoys, Stonor, Henley-on-Thames. - We are informed on the best authority that Messrs. James Veitch & Sons have purchased the freehold of the King’s Road Nursery, together with that of Stanley House and the grounds pertaining to it. The latter will always have an interest attached to it from being the residence where the late Mr. James Veitch, the founder of the London house, lived and died. We cannot but congratulate Messrs. Veitch on having acquired so precious a possession, where, we trust, for many years to come the family and the family name will be preserved in connection with a pursuit they have for four generations already so highly adorned. The nursery, which was founded by the late Mr. Joseph Knight in 1815, was of small dimensions ; and when Mr. James Veitch, jun., left Exeter and succeeded Messrs. Knight & Perry in 1853, it very soon became apparent that the new energy he introduced into the establishment proved too great for the small space in which it was confined, and as a natural consequence greater scope had to be provided. In 1857 the acreage of the nursery was doubled, Mr. Perry having purchased Stanley House and the land adjoining, which he let to Mr. Veitch, and now Mr. Harry J. Veitch has become proprietor of the whole. Now neither he nor those who would regret to see the old associations with the King’s Road severed, need have any misapprehension on that point. We congratulate Mr. Veitch most heartily on this valuable acquisition, and we, in common with a host of well- wishers, hope he may be spared many, years to enjoy his well- gotten gain. - Last Monday evening a number of the Auricula GROWERS of Rochdale, MiddletoD, and Todmorden met at Rochdale, and after considering the matter resolved to revive the Auricula Show in that town. The meeting were presided over by Mr. James Cheetham, who was Secretary of the old Society when the shows were discontinued. Mr. C. M. Royds, J.P., was elected President, and Messrs. Samuel Barton, J.P., Stakehill, Richard Gorton, Eccles, and William Bolton, Warrington, Vice-Presidents. The Hon. Secretary and Treasurer is Mr. James Cheetham, Waraleworth Brow, and the duties of Hon. Assistant Secretary will be discharged by Mr. James Brodie, Mitchel Street. The date of the Show was fixed for the day following the Exhibition of the National Auricula Society in Manchester, and rules and schedule of prizes were adopted. - Rev. David Landsborough, Kilmarnock, writes : — “Your correspondent ‘ G. L.,’ who wrote recently respecting the hardiness of Cordyline iNDiviSA^j(page 8), will be interested in the following extract, which appeared in a Scotch paper four and half years ago: — ‘In the grounds of South Park, Campbeltown, Argyleshire, the residence of Lady Camp¬ bell and Sheriff Gardiner, there is at present ’to be seen in flower a very fine specimen of the New Zealand Cabbage Tree or Palm. The plant is fully 11 feet high, its stem is about 8 inches in diameter, perfectly straight, and is ensheathed, ex¬ cept 2 feet at the lower part, in beautifully green long sword¬ shaped leaves. The flower is an immense panicle covered with innumerable little florets. It proceeds from the top of the stem, but takes a very peculiar twist, and lies toward the sun. The plant was raised from seed by Lady Campbell eleven years ago, and has stood out of doors all these years without any'protection, exposed to all the changes of our very variable climate. It is highly ornamental, and apparently quite hardy.’ I may add that Cordyline australis, C. indivisa, and C. Veitchii are all quite hardy in the garden of Cromla House, Corrie, Isle of Arran, where they have grown in the open air for five years without receiving the slightest injury. I saw lately a very beautiful and striking photograph of the Palm avenue in the Botanic Garden, Ballarat, Victoria. Why should not some of our favourite watering places possess a similar avenue, as we have those which possess the requisite climate and shelter ? ” - Mr. C. A. White of Washington has the following observa¬ tions in the last issue of Nature on the reversion of Sun- FLOWERS at NIGHT : — “ While the fact that Sunflowers turn their faces toward the sun in its course during the day is as old as our knowledge of the plant, I am not aware that any record has been made as to the time of night that they turn to the east again after their obeisance to the setting sun. One evening during a short stay at a village in Colorado, in the summer of 1881, I took a walk along the banks of a large irrigating ditch just as the sun was setting. The wild variety of Helianthus annuus, Linn. ( = H. lenticularis, Dougl iss) grew abundantly there, and I observed that the broad faces of all the flowers were, as is usual in the clear sunset, turned to the west. Returning by the same path less than an hour afterwards, and immediately after the daylight was gone, I found, to my surprise, that much the greater part of those flowers had already turned their faces full to the east in anticipation, as it were, of the sun’s rising. They had in that short time retraced the semicircle, in the traversing of which with the sun they had spent the whole day. Both the day and night were cloudless, and apparently no unusual con¬ ditions existed that might have exceptionally affected the move* ments of the flowers. I doubt not that many persons like myself JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 52 have supposed that Sunflowers remain all night with their faces to the west, as they are when the sunlight leaves them, and until they are constrained by the light of the rising sun to turn to the east again. It is not my purpose to offer any explanation of the cause of the phenomenon here recorded, but it seems to me improbable that it could have been an exceptional in¬ stance ; and I only regret that no opportunity has since occurred to me to repeat the observation.” - The members of the sick fund established amongst THE EMPLOYES OF MESSRS. T. RIVERS & SON, AT SAWBRIDGE- Worth Nursery, held their seventh anniversary last week, and the event was celebrated in a memorable manner. The Society was established through the exertions of Mr. William Camp, the energetic and courteous manager of this old-established and famed nursery. All the workmen are eligible for membership, whether old or young, the men paying 2 d. a week and the boys Id., and membership is not compulsory ; but the beneficent results which have attended its operations have had the effect of attracting to it the great majority of the hands employed by Messrs. Rivers, who have themselves generously fostered the “ sapling,” which has hitherto flourished vigorously. This year, and for the first time, arrangements — thanks to Messrs. Rivers’ ready kindness — • were made to hold the annual dinner at the nursery instead of at one of the inns. One of the spacious forcing houses, 150 feet long by 24 feet wide, was cleared and decorated for the occasion, and formed an elegant and imposing banqueting hall. Mr. Camp presided ; Mr. W. Tarling, the principal departmental foreman, oc¬ cupied the vice-chair, and about sixty members and friends were present. After dinner the Chairman, having first given the toast of the Queen and the Royal Family, which was received with cheers, proposed health and prosperity to Mr. T. F. Rivers and family and Mr. H. R. Rivers. Mr. Camp referred to the considerate, kind, and liberal way in which Messrs. Rivers invariably treated their employ^. Other toasts followed, and the Chairman next reviewed the progress of the Society since its establishment in 1876. They started with forty-seven members, and had a balance of £21 ; in 1877 there were forty-eight members, and had a balance of £20; in 1878 thirty-two members and £23; in 1879 thirty-three members and £21 ; in 1880 thirty-three members and £24 ; in 1881 thirty-four members and £28 ; and in 1882 they had forty-nine members, and a balance of £37 7s. 8 d. Messrs. Rivers generously contributed five guineas annually, and as soon as the dinner was proposed to be held at the Nursery they kindly placed that house at their disposal, besides horses and carts and men to assist in the preparations, and also defrayed other contingent expenses. Mr. Camp then submitted a proposal for extending the sick payments during the ensuing year to six¬ teen weeks — eight full pay (5s.) and eight half-pay. This was agreed to unanimously. The meeting terminated with a musical entertainment. — (Abridged from the Herts and Essex Observer.) DRESSING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Dressing Chrysanthemums a few years ago received too much attention, and does so still in some cases, but the fact is well known that highly-dressed flowers fade much more quickly than those that have not been subjected to such manipulation. It is impossible, as Mr. Moorman states, to do much with some varieties, and his remarks would lead us to believe that dressing is but little practised at the present time. But the exhibitor who stages a box of twenty-four blooms, incurved varieties, as cut from his plants and only “ cupped,” would have a poor chance of gaining a place with those who had used the tweezers. However well the flowers may be grown, there is produced in the majority of them narrow quilled petals that are either too long or too short ; in fact they are not wanted and must be drawn out, as well as a few of the broader petals that crowd the flower, and thus prevent them incurving properly. The narrow petals must, however, be removed or they will mar the beauty of the flowers when seen on the exhi¬ bition table. It is well for either Mr. Moorman or Mr. Rowe to [ January 18, 1883. remark that there were no “highly dressed ” flowers at Kingston simply because dressing has to be conducted cn a much different principle now large blooms are shown than when the blooms were so dressed as to admit of Lady Talfourd being shown in the stands. Those that are accustomed to be behind the scenes could give a different account from Mr. Moorman. What were some of the exhibitors and their assistants doing, I wonder, with the bloom “ cupped ” and in one hand and the small tools in the other, to which I have referred, for hours — I was going to write days — before the blooms were arranged in the boxes ready for the Kingston Exhibition ? — 0. P. COTTAGE GARDENS IN WINTER. As a rule there are no gardens better filled with useful vege¬ tables in summer than those attached to cottages ; but little can be said in their favour in winter, as the majority of those I have seen in many parts of the country have supplied no vege¬ tables of any value from November until the following April or May. This state of matters is not confined to cottage gardens, as I know many farmers’ gardens and others about which the same could be said, and this is certainly neither profitable nor creditable to the owners or cultivators. A little extra attention at certain seasons would soon bring better results, and I wish to suggest improvements. A good supply of Parsnips, Carrots, Turnips, and Onions may be maintained during the winter from one sowing, as summer-sown Onions, Carrots, and Parsnips can always be preserved throughout the winter, and if the Turnips are sown on the Onion ground when they are harvested in August or September they will be ready for daily use from November until May, when the spring-sown ones come in, and the winter root-supply is in this way secured. But more than roots are wanted in the winter, and quantities of Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Kales, and Broccoli are most desirable and acceptable. I have frequently asked cottagers if they would not prefer to see their plots filled with those in winter to having them empty, and their answer was invariably Yes ; but it was stated that as their ground was full of Potatoes in summer there was no space to plant the winteT greens, and this is the general idea ; but it is a mistake, as has lately been proved in many of the cottage gardens about here. In establishing our cottage garden society valuable cash prizes were ottered for the best cropped cottage garden. The compe¬ tition generally takes place in August, when many of the early Potatoes have been lifted ; but should this space be empty when the judge goes round of course it would tell against them, and to obviate this most of them plant their ground with winter vege¬ tables as the land is cleared of any of the summer crops. As soon as the late Potato stems begin to decay winter plants are dibbled in between the rows of Potatoes, and when these are dug up the ground is left with a valuable winter crop on it. I know cottage gardens now which were treated in this way during the summer, and their owners may cut a dish of green vegetables from them daily for the next three months. This is undoubtedly the way to make cottage gardens and small gardens generally profitable, and it would be very pleasing to see a system of this kind in general practice throughout the country. In our kitchen garden here I follow the same plan, and find it answer admirably. — J. MUIR, Mar gam. LILIES OF THE VALLEY FOR FORCING. People are still incredulous about forcing Lily of the Valley year after year. The subject was brought before me the other day by a florist stating his difficulty to obtain good spikes earlier than the middle of January ; and on one of the last days of the past year I had an opportunity of seeing the produce of some selected single crowns in a nursery. These were dumpy little spikes, averaging 4 inches in length and without foliage. I send you a sample of spikes and foliage from home-grown plants, which we have been cutting from at the rate of ten dozen spikes a week for the past few weeks. They are grown in an ordinary stove, and with the most ordinary treatment. Of course neither flower nor foliage are so strong as later batches will be. At the same time, when compared with what I saw the other day, they are fairly creditable to our own country. — R. P. Brotherston. [They are very creditable. The spikes are strong, each con¬ taining sixteen flowers, and the foliage is well developed, stout in texture, and healthy.] Culture of the Stephanotis. — A correspondent (page 7, of January 4th) recommends planting out the Stephanotis. I prefer January 18, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 53 culture in pots. I had a plant here in an 11-inch pot, which flowered from March to November, including those months, and had at one time upwards of one thousand trusses, with an average of ten pips each, some of them having fifteen. My object in writing is to recom¬ mend flowering Stephanotises in a small state. I strike them annu¬ ally, grow them from 4 to 6 inches high, and obtain from each three or four trusses of flowers. I have them at the present time with the trusses just showing, and expect they will be open by the end of March. — J. G., Brentrey. THE WAY TO GROW SO-CALLED LARGE BUNCHES OF GRAPES. With the debatable question whether they are genuine and bona fide single bunches 1 do not propose to deal, although with¬ out doubt this is a question which urgently requires some official and trustworthy solution if such a thing be possible. A dis¬ cussion on this point in the Journal could not fail to have a beneficial result by drawing public attention to the subject, and perhaps clear the way to a solution of the question. The present seems an opportune time to mention the subject before the sche¬ dules for the summer shows have been drafted. In the classes for weight of bunch this matter has often caused sore dissatisfaction among exhibitors, and justly so too in many instances. I send you herewith a small bunch as a sample of how the thing is mani¬ pulated. I am afraid it would be difficult to figure the shoot and bunch, or this would help very much to show the process. You will perceive that after the second bunch had shown, the shoot on which the first bunch, A, is grown was stopped and the leaf nipped off. The consequence of this was that the shoot broke again behind the second bunch, B. This second break or sub-lateral is then encouraged to grow to form the leading or permanent shoot at C, instead of the first that formed ; and the end of the first shoot, which of course is soft, green, and pliable, is appropriated as it were by the two bunches to wed them together and form the stalk to the united bunches. Anyone feeling sceptical on the subject can try it for themselves this spring and summer. I am far from condemning the practice — on the contrary, strongly com¬ mend it, especially to those who wish and are expected to grow large clusters of fruit, and where three bunches show on a shoot the clusters may still be had heavier by stopping at the third instead of the second bunch. Another interesting point in Grape culture which this practice demonstrates is the fallacy of the old, and for that modern teaching too, that it is quite necessary to have two or three leaves ahead of the bunch to secure perfect development of berry. To show that this condition is not abso¬ lutely necessary to produce first-quality Grapes, I may mention that often in carrying out their practice the shoot does not break the second time, and the bunch is left with only the three or four leaves between it and the stem of the Vine, and it not un- frequently happens that these prove to be some of the best clusters in the vinery. — Druid. Filmy Ferns and the Frost. — It is no small recommendation to the more extended culture of this charming section of the Fern tribe that the majority of those in cultivation ignore coddling and fire heat altogether, and will not wince even with the mercury in- 54 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t January 18, 1883. dined to touch zero. Looking in last week at that very interesting compartment, the Filmy Fern house at Glasnevin, nothing could look more happy than the Todeas, Hymenophyllums, and other pel¬ lucid beauties in their garniture of richest green, profusely beaded with diamond dewdrops, notwithstanding that in their cool and humid quarters there must have been in the previous week some fifteen or more degrees of frost. — ( Irish Farmers' Gazette .) DO AQUATICS LIKE MANURE? This always seemed questionable to me till I saw the beneficial effects of good soil and culture upon some plants of Menyanthes found in a swamp in Ashdown Forest. Wonderful as was the change wrought in them by a single season’s care, yet the result was by no means conclusive, for mere wildings growing in an exposed situation amongst a crowd of other plants are unlikely to grow so freely or to become so robust as they do when a special station is given them in a sheltered pond. Last summer, however, the matter was settled beyond dispute : a sewage pipe burst near the pond containing the principal collection of aquatics, and the sewage ran into it through an open-jointed land drain. For some weeks before this was known the extraordinary vigour of several of the plants attracted notice. A little plant of Water Violet planted in the spring had become a square yard of stout vigorous branches, while three others planted at the same time in separate ponds had only made a few new shoots in the ordinary fashion. Calla palustris, Pontederia cordata, Villarsia nymphseoides, and others planted near the mouth of the pipe through which the escaped sewage entered the pond all showed such unwonted vigour as to extend far beyond the bounds assigned them, becom¬ ing crowded and somewhat unsightly ; for aquatics never look so well as when each plant or group stands out clearly from the others margined by clear water. At length the discoloration of the water and its foul odour showed the probable cause, and the sewage pipe was repaired. Although it was thus made clear that aquatics do like manure, it by no means follows that its use is desirable either in a solid or liquid form, excepting, perhaps, for the promotion of quick strong growth in a newly planted pond, or when it becomes desirable to increase stock quickly in a nursery garden ; for mere size in this class of plants does not constitute beauty, a coarse rank growth tending to rob many of them of the elegance and refinement of their normal condition. The Arrowheads and Callas are the probable exceptions, for it may safely be said of all of them that beauty grows with size. Certainly I have never seen the double Arrowhead so fine as it was this year both in foliage and flower. Twice have I lost the Water Violet from its being overgrown and killed by other plants, its growth without manure being very slow and so fragile as to be liable to destruction from a variety of causes. Now, however, I have enough in a single season to stock a dozen ponds, and intend to fill a little pool with it for future emergencies. Since writing the above I have read in Burbidge’s “ Cultivated Plants, their Propagation and Improvement,” that “ it does not appear to be generally known that manure has a wonderful effect on the common white Nymphsea alba, causing it to grow with tropical vigour, and produce leaves and flowers twice the ordinary size, and so distinct in appearance that one would readily imagine plants so stimulated to be a distinct variety.” This statement appears to me so important that it is worth quoting. — Edward Luckhukst. THE COLOURS OF FLOWERS. Decandolle’s opinion that “ blue and yellow being the two primitive colours of flowers, and always exclusive of each other, no blue flower ever changes to yellow nor yellow to blue,” certainly needs some modification to bring it into accordance with well- known facts, and, as “ C. M.” suggests at page 591, last volume, the subject is well worthy of consideration to determine upon what grounds that statement was founded. A few preliminary observations upon the origin of colours may, however, not be out of place. The rich tints of yellow and red assumed by leaves in autumn have been considered by many botanists, chemists, and others to be due to the varying oxidisation of the chlorophyll, which gives the colour to green leaves, and that similar changes are effected in this way has been proved by the fact that the sap of some plants is greatly altered in tint upon exposure to the air, such changes being, however, prevented when the cut portions of plants are at once plunged into a liquid or gas which does not contain any oxygen. Though the colouring matters of flowers differ in constitution from the ordinary green chlorophyll of leaves, yet the red or yellow substances in leaves have been found to be chemi¬ cally similar to Ike same tints in petals or bracts, and on that account they have been considered due to the same cause — namely, oxygenation. Upon these facts the classification of colours adopted by Decandolle was founded. This was originated by Schubler and Funk, who classed them in two series, the “ oxydised ” and the “ dis- oxydised,” termed by Decandolle respectively the xanthic (yellow) and cyanic (blue) series. These were arranged as follows, exclud¬ ing white as a negative condition and green as a combination of the two series. Xanthic : red, orange-red, orange, orange-yellow, yellow, yellow-green. Cyanic : greenish-blue, blue, violet-blue, violet-red, red. From the observations then made it was con¬ sidered that the range of variation in the flowers of a plant would be confined, with few exceptions, to one of these series, and how far that is the fact will be discussed further on. Different views have, however, been held regarding the cause of variation in colours. Thus it has been observed that the expressed juice of most red flowers is blue, and this is supposed to be due to the colouring matter being reddened by carbonic acid which escapes on exposure. “ The same blue-colouring matter as that of the Violet exists in many other flowers, and seems also to form the most usual red of the red flowers, in which it is apparently reddened by an acid, for many of these reds become blue when neutralised by an alkali, and green and yellow by an excess of alkali.” — ( Brande Sf Taylor's “ Chemistry .”) The application of vegetable blues, such as litmus, as tests for acids, is well known ; acids cause the blues to become red, and alkalis restore the blue colour. Other investigators have concluded that there is only one colouring matter, which is termed chromogen, consisting of two principles, one forming a red compound with acids and the other a yellow with alkalis, the green being produced by an admixture of blue with the yellow. But one of the latest writers upon the subject, Mr. Sorby, notices the similarity in many instances of the colouring matters in flowers to those in leaves from which the chlorophyll has disappeared, and considers that such matters are already contained in the tissues of plants, and only require to be variously modified to produce all the tints which render flowers so attractive. He states, “ The facts seem to indicate that these various substances may be due to an alteration of the normal constituents of leaves. So far as I have been able to ascertain, their development seems as if related to extra oxidisation, modi¬ fied by light and other varying conditions not yet understood.” The two last theories seem to be partially in accord with that first mentioned, and it may be well to endeavour to ascertain how far they are borne out by facts. To form an idea of the range of variability of plants we cannot select any better fitted for the purpose than those which have been some time in cultivation, and which have been the special objects of horticulturists’ attention. In the improvement of those plants hybridising has had an important effect, and results have been obtained within the average life of a man that, judging by the extent of the divergence from original types and the comparatively slow manner in which such changes are effected in a natural state, would probably have taken centuries to produce without artificial selection and assistance. In races of plants that have been cul¬ tivated for hundreds of years we might expect an even greater range of colours than of other characters, and that is so ; yet not¬ withstanding the prolonged careful efforts to extend the range of colours, it is surprising how closely they keep within certain lines, corresponding in some measure with the xanthic and cyanic series already mentioned. To exemplify this I have selected the following as amongst the best known kinds or races of plants that may be classified under five heads : 1, Those having varieties with yellow and blue self or parti-coloured flowers ; 2, Those with yellow or orange flowers, but excluding blue ; 3, Yellow or orange with purple ; 4, With blue flowers, but excluding yellow ; and 5, Purple, exclusive of yellow. In this way the plants will rank as follows : — 1st, Pansies, Violas, Hyacinths, Crocuses, Iris ger- manica, Aquilegias, and Auriculas ; 2nd, Tulips, Azaleas, Carna¬ tions, Roses, Tuberous Begonias, Abutilons, Antirrhinums, Fuchsias, Helianthemums, Gladioli, Lantanas, Narcissuses, Rhododendrons (greenhouse hybrids), Chrysanthemums, Calceolarias, Bouvardias, and Potentillas ; 3rd, The first eleven yf the last series are also included in this, together with Primula vulgaris and acaulis and Picotees ; 4th, Canterbury Bells, Cinerarias, Achimenes, Clema¬ tises, Delphiniums, Gloxinias, and Verbenas ; 5th, Pentstemons, Petunias, Phloxes, Primula cortusoides, Rhododendrons (hardy), Pelargoniums, Primula sinensis, and Balsams. Thus, in forty-one examples we have only seven, including both blue and yellow, while there are seventeen possessing yellow, but excluding blue. It is curious, however, that eleven of the latter should possess purple tints, which may be considered as varying only in the pro¬ portion of blue they contain, red-purples being more common January 18, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 55 amongst them than blue-purples. Amongst them are two of the oldest genera in florists’ flowers — namely, the Tulips and Hoses, which have long defied all our skill to eliminate the red from the purples they contain. Blue flowers, excluding yellow, are com¬ paratively few, only seven examples being given above, and the last of them is slightly doubtful, as Verbenas often have strongly marked yellow centres. But with the eight having purple and no yellow flowers, which might almost be ranked with the last, we have a total of fifteen, excluding yellow from association with blue or blue tipts, The results will stand thus — yellow combined with blue or purple, 18 ; blue or purple excluding yellow, 21, Not taking the purples into consideration, however, the results are much more striking — that is, blue and yellow combined, 7 ; blue without yellow, and yellow without blue, 25 — a sufficiently large proportion to indicate that there is somewhat more than mere chance in the separation of these colours. It may be observed that the foregoing are mostly varieties or hybrids of a few species, but some are varieties of but one ; and in estimating their colours chief regard is paid to self-coloured flowers, and those in which the limb of the corolla are distinctly coloured, the markings in the tubes of monopetalous corollas not being considered, as in most instances they are comparatively unimportant. However, yellow frequently occurs in these tubes, but usually when the limb is red, and seldom in combination with blue, which is more frequently attended by white. The next point deserving attention is the proportion of blue to yellow-flowered species in the same genus, but first a few peculiarly changeable species deserve notice, and a few of these are most directly oppo¬ site to the Decandollean theory, that “ no blue flower ever changes to yellow, nor yellow to blue.” One of the best known and most remarkable is Myosotis versicolor, the flowers of which are at first yellow, then becoming blue, and finally purple — an extraordinary change in one flower, for though the flowers of many other members of the Boraginacem family are changeable, the progression is usually from red to blue and purple, as in Echium vulgare, Anchusa sempervirens, and Myosotis repens. Still self-coloured flowers of the most pure yellow and blue tints occur in the same order and in closely allied genera, though not exhibiting this change¬ ability. In another family Cheiranthus chamseleo is a peculiarly varying species, the flowers opening white, advancing to yellow, red, and violet, thus having a similar range to the Myosotis. This is the most remarkable phenomena in the colouration of flowers ; and were it more frequent in a similar direction to Myosotis versicolor there would certainly appear to be no rule regulating the exclusion of yellow or blue respectively. This is far from being the case, and in the majority of colour-changing flowers the evidence is more in its favour than otherwise, as in Hibiscus mutabilis, the flowers of which expand green, becoming white at midday, and advancing to crimson in the evening. — L. Castle. (To be continued.) SOLANUM HENDERSONII. The above is one of the best of the berry-producing plants commonly called Christmas Cherries. For decorative purposes during the Christmas festivities they are very useful and appro¬ priate objects. Having been fairly successful in their culture I give my experience for the benefit of others. To commence with the seeds. These should be sown early in January if useful-sized and well-berried plants are to be secured the first season. However, those not having a genial temperature at command, say 55° to 60°, had better wait until they can com¬ mand such. Sow the seed thinly in a pan or pot, covering the seed with some finely sifted soil. The pot should have a good drainage of potsherds. The seed, if good, germinates freely in the above- mentioned temperature, bottom heat not being necessary. When the seedlings are well advanced they should be placed singly in thumb pots. Any good soil suits them well. All that is necessary to secure good plants is attention to water¬ ing, potting as required, thinning the berries when a sufficient number have set, and pinching and regulating the growths from time to time. The best sized pot and one in which they may be grown large enough for decorative purposes is a 6-inch pot. As to the shape in which they are grown, that is a matter of taste with the cultivator. They may be grown successfully in the bush form or as standards ; I prefer the latter. With about 6 inches of clear stem they are very attractive as standards. When the pots are filled with roots, being gross feeders, they cannot be too liberally supplied with water. Diluted cow urine given every other watering when the pots are well filled with roots is very beneficial. During bright sunny weather a good syringing with tepid water about 4 p.m. each day is also beneficial. Occasionally fumigating with tobacco paper will keep down any green fly that appears ; this insect seems to be the only one troublesome. With such treatment as I have endeavoured to describe good results may be obtained the first year ; and if the cultivator can command a genial temperature, they may be kept in tolerably good condition up to the following February. The second year, however, far better results may be obtained. In the second year’s treatment proceed thus : — When the plants begin to look shabby cut them well back and place them in a genial temperature until such time fresh growths are produced. This taken place, shake all the soil from the roots and repot into the same sized pots. A good portion of the roots may be advantageously cut away with a sharp knife before potting. They may be planted out during the summer, lifted and repotted again in the autumn. However, with the uncertain sum¬ mers we have, it is preferable to keep them under glass, far better results being so obtained. — J. Richardson, Calverton Hall. A BOTANICAL RAMBLE WITH THE LATE MR. J. SADLER. A touching sketcb of the late Mr. John Sadler, Curator of the Roj al Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh, from the pen of our valued correspondent, Dr. Stuart of Chirnside, appears in the North British Advertiser, from which we extract the following graphic descriptions of botanical excursions made in Mr. Sadler’s company. Speaking of the discovery of Salix Sadleri Dr. Stuart says : — “ We had almost crept along the precipitous ledges running from the Break-neck Waterfall, at the head of Glen Callater, which extends towards the weird-looking inky tarn, gathering Carex rupestris and other rarities. The day was grey and very windy, and our footing on such steep ground was far from secure. John Sadler took to the steep grassy ledges facing the north-east side of the lake, and ascended for about 1000 feet, from one ledge to another. The climb¬ ing was not so difficult, but the getting down was another matter, especially as the wray was obscure, and not without risk did he make the descent, bringing with him cuttings of the Willow and a Carex never before gathered nearer than the Swiss Alps, and named Carex frigida. Both were submitted to Dr. Boswell Syme, LL.D., who pro¬ nounced the Willow new to Britain, and named it Salix Sadleri, after the discoverer ; and the Carex also proved a species new for Britain. A plant of the Willow is growing on the Rock Garden, Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh, and the Carex has also been cultivated with success. “ The favourite quarter of our departed friend in the north was Bridge of Lochay inn, half a mile from Killin, on the road to Kenmore. Picturesquely situated on the river Lochay, and over¬ shadowed by the Finlarig woods and the everlasting hills, this quiet retreat has been a welcome sight to many a weary botanist ; and Mr. and Mrs. Cameron have ever a kindly welcome for the whole brother¬ hood. Ben Lawers, Maol-na-Ptarmachan, Cam-a-Creag, Maol Ghirdy, Craig Mohr, &c., are within reach, and then alpine flora is the richest in the kingdom. Here Mr. Sadler has conducted many a happy party, and introduced many an ardent botanist to the beauties of Flora in this classic region. No one can ever forget the pleasure of a first excursion to Cam-a-Creag and Maol-na-Ptarmachan, and the delight with which he saw growing the snowy Gentian, the mountain Forget-me-not, the ‘ himmel ’ blue of the mountain Veronica, the green of the Spleenworts which fringe the moist crevices, the alpine Willows and mountain Saxifrages, the rare Woodsia hyperborea, &c. Here, on the mica schist, in a state of disintegration, there is a growth observed and a vigour attained by these alpines seen nowhere else. Wherever our party began opera¬ tions, even in the far north, the finish to the excursion was generally at Bridge of Lochay ; for whether at Ben Lawers, Cam-a-Creag, or Craig Mohr, there is always, if the weather proves favourable, a grand excursion to be had. It would be difficult to relate how often Mr. Sadler made returns to his favourite ground ; at all events, he never tired of renewing his acquaintance with the alpine flora of the district. In the year 1876 we visited the West Highlands, and ascended Ben Nevis on a very stormy day. Botanically we did little. On the following day the precipices under the peak were examined, Saxifraga rivularis and Juncus castaneus being the best plants obtained, close to the melting snow. “ Mr. Sadler did not like Ben Nevis much, so we returned through Glencoe, and got to Tyndrum early next day, proceeding to Bridge of Lochay partly by rail. In the evening we hired a vehicle and drove up Glen Lochay to a deserted farmhouse named Chirrai. Climbing up the grassy bank covered with sweet-scented Gymna- denias (G. conopsea and G. albida) and Butterfly Orchises, we came to the roofless dwelling. Our friend, ten years before, when bota- nising, had lived here ajnong the herds, and, looking down, began in his humorous strain to describe his experiences. In the big kitchen lived the master and mistress, with half a dozen herds, and a number of lasses to mind the dairy work. Our friend occupied the other end, and pointed out the remains of a wall press where he kept his plants. At night the herds retired up a ladder or ‘trap ’to one side of the 56 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 18, 1883. loft followed by about half a dozen collies ; the lasses retired up the same * trap ’ to the other side of the loft. Shortly the snoring of the sleepers was appalling, but worst of all the dogs first commenced to snarl and then to fight in earnest : clouds of dust descended through seams in the boarding upon the devoted head of our friend, who. was only too delighted when day broke, and he was able to extricate himself from his difficulties and breathe the pure air of Maol Ghirdy. I feel how vain on my part it is to describe the re¬ collections of the scene as related at the time, but I have endeavoured to give a sketch of an actual adventure which our friend had, and he had many such to relate. We returned down Glen Lochay on a lovely summer night to our hostelry, and it is difficult to realise that the man who had kept us all amused has passed away from among us almost in his prime. “ His popularity among the students attending the botanical class is too well known to require to be noticed. At the weekly excur¬ sions he was their genial companion, and did everything to inspire them .with a love of nature and the interesting science they were studying. It is sad to think that the bright career that was before him as Curator of the Botanic Gardens and Arboretum — work so congenial to his nature — should have been so suddenly closed by his untimely death. Providence has so ordered it ; but his memory will ever remain green in the hearts of many true friends, who have spent happy days in. his company in climbing most of the Scottish moun¬ tains in pursuit of their favourite science. ‘ Fell star of fate ! thou never canst employ A torment teeming with severer smart Than that which memory pours upon the heart. While clinging round the sepulchre of joy.’ — C. Stuart, M.D.” WRITERS ON VINE CULTURE. I think you, most head gardeners, under gardeners and fore¬ men of any pretension or status, and most amateurs, will agree with me that Grape culture, especially varieties of Duke of Buccleuch, Madresfield Court, have had their culture especially well discussed during the past twelve months in your columns. Let me suggest, especially to those writers who have lately become very personal in their criticisms of other gardeners’ sug¬ gestions, to entirely leave off writing on this subject for a time, and instead to practise the many good hints that have been printed from known and respected professionals in Grape culture. Let me suggest to a number of these writers that nearly all of us want some practical hints on other things ; and I beg to sug¬ gest to amateurs and professionals a subject wanting all their powers to cope with it — viz., the extermination of all sorts of garden vermin, especially out-of-door pests. This subject will stand some thrashing, with many others in your columns which have been so generously given up to Grape culture, a fruit, by- the-by, that is being erroneously overdone everywhere, as the price of them from August 1st to November 1st has proved the last few years. — Saxoring. I DO not know when I have been more interested than in read¬ ing the articles on Grapes that have lately appeared in the Journal, and I feel certain as a young gardener searching for information that I shall be able to turn some of the valuable hints to profit¬ able account. If I can succeed, as I now think I can, in growing those grand varieties the Duke of Buccleuch and Madresfield Court, this alone will repay me for investing in your useful Journal. The instructions on ventilation, pruning, and watering I have never seen so clearly stated before as during the last twelve months, and I trust those cultivators who have been successful in growing what may be termed fickle kinds of Grapes will not fail to point out any special items of treatment that may he needed in the future as they have done in the past, as there are hundreds besides myself who do not yet know all they wish to know about this important fruit. I think to fail in Grapes is to fail altogether or nearly so in gardening, and I wish to succeed. — J. Page, Barnet. HORTICULTURE IN 1882. At this season of the year, when persons of all classes are taking stock of the past, are balancing their accounts, and seeing how they stand with regard to the coming year, it may not be alto¬ gether unprofitable if we do the same with regard to that pur¬ suit in which, in some of its many branches, we are all interested, and ask, What has been the position of horticulture during the past year and what are its prospects ? It was hardly to be expected that at a time when an undefinable but still , very patent depression exists in all departments of commercial enterprise, when the reaction from the “ leaps and bounds ” of an inflated prosperity has told so evidently on all, when to the ordinary causes of that depression is added that which has so materially affected the land and all connected with it — viz., the strange cycle of unfavourable seasons, should not very seriously interfere with horticulture, and especially with the maintenance of the gardening establishments of our nobility and gentry. In very many instances that have come under my own observation, and doubtless but samples of many more, 1 have seen lamentable reductions in the staff, and a consequent falling-off in the appearance of the garden ; while in others, although the staff has been maintained and the gardens exhibit the same appearance as before, yet it has been done by turning my lord into a market gardener and nurseryman combined, for we know of princely establishments where well nigh anything of fruit and flowers can be purchased ; and I cannot but think that some symptoms of this restricted expenditure has had something to do with the falling-off (for such there has been) in our great metro¬ politan exhibitions. The growing of plants or flowers for exhi¬ bition is a luxury, and luxuries are the first things to be curtailed. I do not think that the shows of our two great royal societies have been anything like what they were, while those who recol¬ lect what the exhibitions at the Crystal Palace were in Mr. Bowley’s or Mr. Wilkinson’s time must write “ Ichabod ” on them now. Of provincial exhibitions the palm must as usual be given to Manchester, but, even there, there was a falling-off. Of the other provincial shows, Edinburgh (if the northern metropolis will suffer itself to be classed amongst provincial towns) was undoubtedly the star of the year, although far short of the magnificent autumn exhibition held at Manchester in 1881 ; but I have not in my recollection known one which has given rise to more controversy as to the character of the judging. As far as my experience of provincial flower shows goes the West of England, Bath, Taunton, Weston, &c., are carried on with the most spirit and obtain the greatest measure of success. Turning from flower shows to flowers, I do not think that during the past year we have seen any very startling additions to either our plants or flowers. Of course many beautiful things have been in both exhibited, but nothing of that surpassing cha¬ racter which marks an epoch in our gardens. Orchids still seem to be as much in demand as ever ; and although some well-known collections are dispersed yet others are springing up in all direc¬ tions ; while the continuous importations which are week after week brought to the hammer at Stevens’s are rapidly cleared off, and one would almost think that their native habitat must soon be cleared out. Thousands of Odontoglossums, Cattleyas, &c., are offered for sale, and that not in single bulbs but in large clumps ; and the well-known exuberance and quickness of growth of tropical vegetation must be stretched to its utmost limits to make up the gaps made by ardent collectors, who have respect more to the money’s worth of what they are collecting than for any sentimental notion about despoiling the native forests, &c., of their beauty. To my mind the most extraordinary “ craze ” of the year has been the rush for single Dahlias. When raisers of seedling Dahlias can look back and recollect how deliberately every single flower was forthwith pulled up they must be amazed to find that the rejected of former years are the favourites of to-day. They are all very well in their place. A few of five or six different shades of colour in any moderate-sized garden are very desirable ; but to have our gardens crammed with them, to grow them, as some growers for sale, by the acre, to see nothing but single Dahlias in vases, is a little too much for one’s nerves ; and worse still, to hear the grand and brilliant double Dahlias decried for the sake of exalting these humble brethren, is making matters worse. I have heard of one city house where a bundle of these were shown in a vase in the window, and in three days orders were received for 780 plants. The craze has, I think, been evi¬ dently encouraged by the granting of seven certificates for single Dahlias in one day by the Floral Committee. The attempt to revive an interest in florists’ flowers in the south has been successful in one direction, although a failure in another. The Dahlia Show at the Crystal Palace was an instance of the former, the Pink Society of the latter. A meritorious attempt to inaugurate one was made, but it was found that while money enough could be obtained there were not exhibitors sufficient to make a show. The Auricula and Carnation Societies have both made progress. The exhibitors from the southern part of the kingdom are, however, still too few to justify me in saying that the revival of the culture of florists’ flowers has become very active. The close of the year always leads us to look back on the gaps that death has made amongst us, but happily this season we have to record the loss of fewer names in the horticultural world, as distinguished from the scientific, than usual. An enthusiastic florist, Mr. George Smith of Edmonton, whose last public act was January 18, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 57 the origination of the Crystal Palace Dahlia Show, and whose health had for years been feeble, died before he was able to see the accomplishment of the work he had undertaken. The death of Mr. Robert Osborn, the last member of his family, at an early age, led to the breaking-up of one of the old historic nurseries of the metropolis — Osborn’s of Fulham ; and so has followed, although from a different cause, in the wake of Gleudinning’s of Chiswick and Roili- son’s of Tooting. One does not like to miss these old familiar names who did real and good service to the cause of horticulture in days gone by ; and amongst horticulturists all over England there was no name that stood higher for probity and honourable dealing than that of Osborn of Fulham. Such are some of the points which have presented themselves to me in connection with the past year. Looking at it in a horti¬ cultural point of view there is nothing to discourage and much to encourage us in our onlook. Never was the love of flowers so great amongst us as it is now ; and although, as is usual, there are some eccentricities, yet on the whole taste is, I think, improving. Less and less grow the polychrome beds of colour of the bedding- out system ; more numerous become the herbaceous beds and borders. Oid-fashioned flowers are once more in favour. We go into gardens now where we can catch the delicious fragrance of the Sweet Pea, Mignonette, or Lavender ; and although there are some who are inclined to ride this hobby to death, yet on the whole horticulture is vastly benefited by the change. May all the readers of the Journal have a good time in their several depart¬ ments in the year on which we have now entered. — D., Deal. RICHARDIAS. The glowing accounts of the grand successes of our great plant- growers cause their less fortunate brethren to heave many a sigh. They eagerly read such accounts in search of cultural details that may lead them to a similar result. I have experienced this myself in reading the pages of the Journal, which I have done for twenty years, and it is pleasant to succeed in accomplishing an object. I have lately read a paragraph by one of our leading plant-growers, in which plants grown in pots all the summer are described as superior to those that have been planted out and potted in the autumn. In my small stock of fifteen plants I found on December 18th last, twelve were showing spathes, and seven had fully expanded spathes. These were planted out about the middle of May in the kitchen garden. The roots were not disturbed, but some old potting soil was packed round them. An occasional watering in dry weather was all the attention they received till they were again lifted the second week of September. They were placed in 6 and 8-inch pots, stood on a plank behind a north wall, where they were syringed twice a day in bright weather. Early in October they were placed in a late Peach house, but free from frost, and where the syringing is continued on the mornings of fine days. By the third week of October the roots had taken possession of the soil, and a few of the plants showing bloom. The plants were then removed to an early vinery, the temperature ranging from 40° to 55° according to the weather. This is all the forcing that was necessary to produce the result above stated. — R. Inglis. REVIEW OF BOOK. Text Booh of Botany , Morphological and Physiological. By Julius Sachs. Edited by Sydney H. Vines, M.A., D.Sc., F.L.S. Second edition. Oxford, The Clarendon Press, 1882. The first English edition of Sachs’s “Text Book of Botany” has been for some years out of print, and the botanical public have been eagerly looking for the second, which now reaches us under the able editorship of Dr. Vines. The work is so univer¬ sally recognised as the best text book for advanced students in botany, and is so widely known, that any criticism or even description of its general scope by a reviewer is needless. As compared with the first English edition, which bears the date 1875, it indicates the marked advance which botanical science has made in the interval. It has long been admitted that it is in investigations of the lowest rather than of the highest forms of either vegetable or animal life that the philosophical physiologist and evolutionist must seek to gain insight into the mysterious laws, still so imperfectly known, which underlie the phenomena of organic life, and which connect together the links in the endless chain of living beings. The study of cryptogamy has in conse¬ quence found of late years many ardent followers both in this country and on the continent, and our knowledge of some of the lowest forms of vegetable life has been greatly enlarged. The increased attention paid to this branch of botany is manifested by the large space devoted to it in the volume before us, and by the variation in its treatment from that which it received in the earlier edition. As regards the primary classification of cryp¬ togams, or rather of their lowest section, the Thallophyta, Prof. Sachs is an able advocate of the system, now widely followed in Germany, of discarding the familiar classification into Fungi and Algae, dependant on the absence or presence of chlorophyll. Considering this not to be a differentiation which underlies any necessary great difference in organic structure, but rather an adaptation to external conditions, he divides the Thallophytes — i.e., everything below Mosses and Liverworts — into four classes, distinguished essentially by their mode of reproduction — the Protophyta, Zygospore®, Oospore®, and Carpospore®, in each of which are two parallel series, one autonomous and containing chlorophyll, the other parasitic and destitute of chlorophyll. In accordance with the researches of Schwendener and others, Lichens are deposed from their position as a primary class, and described as a section of the Ascomycetes, themselves an order of Carpo- spore®. All Lichens are, in fact, regarded as illustrations of that singular commensalism or symbiosis of which so many examples have lately been detected in both the animal and vegetable king¬ doms ; in this instance consisting of organisms destitute of chloro¬ phyll (Fungi), parasitic on those that contain it (Alg®). Although it is more and more fully recognised that scientific knowledge must lie at the base of all sound horticulture — that the horticulturist must be a botanist before he can be a successful horticulturist — yet anyone practically engaged in horticulture will naturally turn with special interest to that portion of this bulky volume, about one-third of the whole, which is devoted to those problems of physiology which puzzle him or which exercise his attempts at solution, as he comes across them in his daily avoca¬ tions. And he will find abundant focd for thougltful study in the chapters with the following headings : — Molecular Forces in the Plant ; Chemical Processes in the Plant ; General Conditions of Plant Life ; the Mechanics of Growth ; Periodic Movements of the Mature Parts of Plants and Movements dependant on Irrita¬ tion ; the Phenomena of Sexual Reproduction ; the Origin of Species. It might have been wished that Prof. Sachs had adopted Darwin’s admirable plan of giving at the close of each section of his works a summary of the results obtained. In the absence of such summaries we may illustrate his mode of dealing with his subject by the following general statement of the phenomena connected with periodically motile and irritable parts of plants. “ It is remarkable that all organs at present known as coming under this category are, in a morphological sense, foliar structures — as green foliage, leaves, petals, stamens, or occasionally parts of the carpels (styles or stigmas). It is the more striking that no axial structures or parts of stems are contractile in this sense, because the contractile parts of leaves are usually cylindrical, or at least are not expanded flat, and therefore possess the ordinary form of an axis. There is this further agreement in the anatomi¬ cal structure of all parts which exhibit these phenomena — that a very succulent mass of parenchyma envelopes an axial fibro- vascular bundle or a few bundles running parallel to one another, the elements composing these bundles being only slightly or not at all lignified, therefore remaining extensible and flexible — a fact of importance in reference to the possibility of the movement, which consists of flexions upwards and downwards, generally in the median plane of the organ ; the fibrovascular bundle thus forming the neutral axis of the curvature. The mass of paren¬ chyma which envelopes the fibrovascular bundle often has the form of a pulvinus, and does not contain in its outer layers any air-conducting intercellular spaces, or only very small ones ; while in the inner layers they are larger, especially in the immediate vicinity of the bundle, these being, according to Morren, Unger, and Pfeifer, wanting only in the irritable stamens of Berberis and Mahonia. The tension of these layers of tissue, which is gene¬ rally very considerable, is caused by the stronger turgidity of the parenchymatous cells on the one hand and the elasticity of the axial bundle and epidermis on the other hand. As far as obser¬ vations go at present, especially those made on the larger contrac¬ tile organs, the tendency to extension is greatest in the middle layer of the parenchyma between the epidermis and the axial bundle, but the elastic resistance of the epidermis is less than that of the bundle.” One great value of this work is the copiousness of the references to the most recent and trustworthy memoirs on special depart¬ ments of the subject. Its main purpose is to describe the pheno¬ mena of plant life which are already accurately known, and to indicate those theories and problems in which botanical research is at present especially engaged. It would obviously defeat this object if special points were gone into too much in detail ; but 58 - JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January is, 1883. with the aid of these references the reader will he able to do this for himself. To anyone who wishes to keep himself abreast of the most recent developments of botanical science the work is indispensable. . HYACINTHS AND TULIPS FOR EXHIBITION. Hyacinths and Tulips that have been plunged under cocoa- nut fibre or ashes, and wanted for exhibition or to bloom from the middle to the end of March, will require removing now from the plunging material. As a rule I remove ours on the 20th of this month, and allow the small pots which cover the crowns to remain over them for a few days longer to gradually inure them to the light, or the foliage is liable to crack near the bulb ; besides, from a sudden transmission from the plunging material to a strong light the tips of both the leaves and truss are often permanently injured. For some little time they will not require water unless the soil is very dry, which is seldom the case after passing through a mild wet season like the present. When they require water it may be given copiously, and weak liquid manure will also greatly assist in giving strength and a green lustre to the foliage. A good Hyacinth should have a strong bold truss thrown well above the foliage, which should be dwarf and rigid. — J. W. Moorman. \ m tD - ft WORK/outheWEEK. new* \_By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments.'] KITCHEN GARDEN. When the forcing of vegetables is commenced there should be no deficiencies in the supply until the outdoor crops are ready. A good supply of hotbed material is now required, and with plenty of this and a few frames and lights no one will find it very diffi¬ cult to raise vegetables ; but in forcing for the table a succession of small quantities is much better than having large batches coming in at long intervals. Sow successions of whatever is likely to be scarce. Admit abundance of light to all young plants. A few rows of early Carrots may be sown on a south border. The drills for the reception of the seed should not be more than 2 inches deep, and if they are filled with river sand the young plants will progress better than if covered with cold soil. Spinach may now be sown ; a double row should be put in each space between the earliest-sown Pea rows. This is one of the quickest vegetables to gain maturity, and where other spring vegetables are scarce it should be sown in large quantities. More Radishes should be sown at the base of a wall ; extra firm ground causes them to bulb early. A pinch of Cabbage and Brussels Sprout seed may be sown in a sheltered corner. Our earliest seed is sown in rows, and as soon as the plants can be seen above ground a little bank of finely sifted ashes is placed along each side of the rows. This effectually prevents the slugs doing any injury, and it affords shelter from the wind as well. We advise the application of this to all tender young vegetables in the spring months. Where autumn-sown Onions are scarce or have failed, and their absence is likely to be felt in spring, seed must be sown at once. The variety should be one usually sown in spring, and a large number of plants may be raised in a few 6-inch pots in very gentle heat, but a cold frame is their proper place as soon as the plants are through the soil. By March they will be large plants, ready for placing in the open quarters, and they will be ready for use long before those sown out of doors. This is a good way of forwarding Onions to be shown throughout the season as “ spring-sown.” Early Cauliflowers and plants of this kind may be raised with advantage in this way. Young vegetable plants which have been wintered in frames and under handlights show signs of resuming growth, and air must be admitted on every favourable occasion ; keeping the atmosphere close about them, and covering them at night when such protection is not wanted is often the cause of failure. Where Asparagus roots were not mulched in autumn it should be done forthwith. If 4 lbs. of salt and 4 lbs. of guano are mixed to every hundredweight of dry ordinary manure and spread over the beds to the depth of 3 inches the benefit will be considerable. Mushroom beds should be formed whenever any material for making them can be had. Lately we have been most fortunate with beds in cool sheds. In preparing the manure more litter is left with the droppings than is generally the case, and this has proved to be a great advantage. The beds cannot be made too firm, as the longer they retain the heat the better. As soon as they are spawned and soiled a covering of hay about 1 foot in thickness is kept over them until bearing ceases, and changing this covering when it becomes too damp is the whole of the atten¬ tion they receive. Those who allow their vegetable gardens to remain in a semi- dormant state in winter should be stirring for a good and early start in spring. All seed lists of any importance have now been received for the present year, and orders should be made up and dispatched quickly. FRUIT-FORCING. Peaches and Nectarines . — In the house closed in November, and in which fire heat was commenced early in December, the flowers are now fully expanded, and in some instances the fruit set ; but the temperature should still be kept at 50° at night and 55° by day, allowing an advance from sun heat to 65°, accompanied with free ventilation. Continue artificial fertilisation as the pollen becomes ripe ; and as the large-flowered varieties are frequently deficient of pollen as compared with the small-flowered sorts, it should be taken from the latter and applied to the stigmas of the former. Continue damping available surfaces in the house as they become dry, but until the fruit is set syringing the trees should not be practised. Disbudding must be commenced so soon as the shoots are sufficiently large to be rubbed off, which should be done gradually, so as not to give any check to the trees. It is necessary to have a growth on a level with or above the fruit, which, when it has made a leaf or two of growth, should be stopped, and another will need to be retained as near the base of the present bearing wood as possible to replace it for next year’s bearing. Provision will also be needed for trees extending, so as to originate growths at the proper distances for furnishing the trees — i.e., main shoots at 12 to 15 inches, and bearing shoots at 15 to 18 inches distance upon the main shoots of last year, so as to obtain a supply of bearing wood. The trees started at the beginning of the year are now swelling their buds fast, and if there be Strawberries or other plants in the house likely to harbour green fly, fumigate so as to destroy the pests before the flowers expand. Continue syringing the trees until the flowers expand. The temperature must be maintained at 50° by day, advancing to 60° or 65° from sun heat, with a free circulation of air, and for the present the night temperature should be kept at 40° to 45°, and gradually raised to 50° at night by when the flowers expand, with 5° more in the daytime. See that the inside borders are sufficiently moist. The house to which fire heat is to be applied early next month should now be closed, ventilating fully when the temperature ex¬ ceeds 50°. The inside borders should be thoroughly saturated with water, or, if the trees are weakly, liquid manure at a tempe¬ rature of 70° to 75°. Complete without delay cleansing late houses, pruning, dressing, and retying the trees ; and as the buds are already starting, ventilate fully in all but very severe weather. FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Collecting Leaves. — Advantage should be taken of fine weather to collect as many leaves as possible. These will prove valuable for mixing with rough stable manure, as they will moderate the fermentation. Oak leaves will be found the best, next to these in point of duration being Beech and Chestnut leaves. Leaf soil is invaluable for mixing with other soils for potting purposes, and there are few flower gardens that would not be greatly benefited by a good dressing of it. For either purpose they may be collected and stored in a convenient uncovered corner, turning the heap once or more during the twelve months they are decomposing. In many cases the ordinary method of collecting has to be altered, as the frequent winds have cleared the parks and other com¬ paratively open spots, and the supply has to be drawn from the shrubberies. Thinning out and Arranging Shrubberies. — During mild dry weather the work of thinning crowded shrubberies should be proceeded with, the supernumeraries in this case being shifted to other quarters in order to allow those planted permanently to develope. This practice of planting thickly for immediate effect is worthy of adoption by intending planters, always, however, taking proper care to dispose the trees and shrubs with the view of eventually thinning them. Prior to planting, all the sites for the tall-growing shrubs, evergreen and deciduous trees, should be marked with tall stakes, shorter stakes being employed to denote January is, i8£3. j JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 59 the sites for the dwarfer-growing kinds. By these means the quantities required can easily be computed, and the work of planting be much simplified; all intervening spaces to be filled in with commoner kinds of shrubs, and which will eventually be treated as supernumeraries. Shrubberies, in common with the other parts of the garden, require to be deeply drained, and in some instances where clay predominates open surface drains prove extremely beneficial. Few shrubs or Conifers will thrive in an undrained clayey loam, but if this is well drained it often proves highly suitable for them and also Boses. Some clays are more easily dug in wet weather, consequently now is the time to either drain or lightly dig such soils. Preparing Flower Boxes. — The time is rapidly approaching when it will be found necessary to commence propagating the stock of various kinds of bedding plants, and it is advisable to anticipate this with regard to preparing pots, pans, and boxes. The two former ought long ago to have been washed and stored in a dry shed, as they are not improved by frequent saturations, and are easily cracked by frost. Boxes requiring new bottoms should be repaired, in many cases this being best accomplished by nailing the new bottom to what was previously the top part of the frame. When making new boxes those intended for propa¬ gating purposes may be about 24 inches long, 15 inches wide, and 6 inches deep, which depth will admit of a square or squares of glass being laid on. For newly-struck cuttings deep boxes are unsuitable, as Iresines, Coleuses, and Alternantheras do not thrive in a great body of soil. Even Pelargoniums, Yeibenas, Lobelias, Gazanias, and Alyssums do not require deep boxes. We recom¬ mend a uniform depth of 3 inches for all kinds, draining the boxes more or less according to the constitution of the plants they are to hold. Boxes may be strengthened and preserved by nailing two strong pieces of wood across the bottom, these raising them from the ground or beds as the case may be, and thereby retard¬ ing the otherwise inevitable early decay. PLANT HOUSES. Stove. — Allamanda Hendersoni that has been at rest during the past two months and kept in a temperature of 50° to 55° should now be started. Prune closely back — similar to Vines grown on the spur system — if the plant has attained the desired size to cover the trellis on which it may be grown, or the portion of roof under which it is to be trained. If grown in pots the old ball should be reduced by half, and then soaked in tepid water. The same or a larger pot should be used, according to the space to be covered with the plant. The drainage of the pot should be libera’, and then covered with a good layer of decayed manure, the most suitable compost being rich fibry loam, one-seventh of manure and coarse sand. Press the soil as firmly as possible into the pots, and place the plant in a temperature of Go0, syringe twice daily, but give little or no water at the root until signs of growth are observed. If planted out remove as much of the old soil as possible, and employ fresh soil with a little more manure. Bougainvillea glabra may also be started at once. Prune freely by removing all the weak puny growths, as a number of strong shoots will produce more flowers than a crowded plant with a much greater number of small twiggy growths. This should be treated in every way similar to the preceding plant, and the same compost will be suitable. Plants of Clerodendron Balfourianum should also be introduced into the same temperature, well watered, but not disturbed at the roots until growth commences. When potting is done care must be taken not to injure the roots. It is not necessary to repot this plant annually. Bich top-dressing and liberal feeding will keep them in good health for several years. When potting really has to be done remove one-third of the old ball, and replace it in the same size pot, using the compost already recommended, with the addition of a little charcoal and rough half-decayed leaf soil. Plants to bloom later in the season and now at rest must only have sufficient water to prevent the wood shrivelling, and must not be in a lower temperature than 55°. A plant or two of the shrnbby-habited C. fallax should also receive attention by now being closely pruned, leaving only one or two eyes on each shoot of the previous year’s wood. This variety is the best when grown with a clear stem about 18 inches high, and then allowed to form a small head. Small decorative plants can annually be raised from seed, but a plant grown on into a specimen in a 10-inch pot is when in flower a noble object, with its large terminal erect panicles of bright scarlet flowers. In repotting the old ball can be well reduced, and done directly after pruning or when the young shoots are about an inch in length, using the same soil as for C. Balfourianum. THE ART OF BEE-KEEPING. ( Continued from page 600, last volume.') HIVES. As we have already seen, the honey bee is one of the few insects capable to a certain extent of domestication. In a state of nature its colonies are found in hollows of rocks or trees, and occasionally in exposed situations. The first hives were doubtless hollow logs or sections of bark, and these have in the course of ages developed into the modern moveable-comb hive, now all but universally in use among advanced apiarians. We may regard the straw skep as the modern representative of the hive with fixed combs, while the octagonal Ayrshire or Stewarton hive may he regarded as the connecting link between the skep and the bar-frame hive proper. The combs of the Ste« arton hive are sometimes built in moveable frames, but as these are necessarily of unequal sizes they are only par¬ tially interchangeable. When the rectangular form is given all combs become interchangeable, and we have the bar-frame hive proper. Which of these is the best hive ? has been and still is the source of much controversy among bee-keepers, a controversy frequently complicated by the introduction of various side issues, such as the material of hives or the different systems of management. Apart from these issues, however, the question resolves itself simply into that] between fixed and moveable combs, and we shall shortly give our reasons for using and recommending the latter. The questions as to material and management are equally applicable to each of the styles of hive mentioned ; thus we may have wooden skeps or straw Stewartons or bar-frame hives. What, then, are the special advantages we claim for the bar- frame hive ? First of all we place the facility it offers for inspec¬ tion. To the experienced bee-keeper it resembles a book- slide. Each of its combs is a volume easily withdrawn and studied. In a moment the inmost mysteries of the hive can be reviewed. We see the whole development of the bee from the egg to the perfect insect. We note the presence or absence of a queen, and judge as to her condition or fertility. We can inform ourselves as to the condition of the whole stock, whether duly increasing at the proper season, free from disease, or sufficiently supplied with stores. We may tell almost to a day when it intends to swarm, or satisfy ourselves of its non-intention. And if curious as to the natural history of the hee, we may note every stage of the growth of the inmates, the won¬ derful production of royal cells for future queens, the method of storing honey and pollen, and the formation of the beautiful combs. If it be granted that such knowledge is of practical importance in bee-keeping, we do not see how anyone can doubt the advantages of the moveable-comb hive. But in the next place we note the facility it affords the bee¬ keeper for aiding Nature in her work. We can readily supply embossed sheets of wax called comb foundation, of the full size of the combs required, containing sufficient wax to nearly finish them, and thus insure combs of unsurpassed regularity in a third of the time required to build them naturally. We may have these combs entirely composed of worker cells if desired, and exactly in the place wanted. This advantage alone is worth much when we con¬ sider that every ounce of wax produced by the bee is at the cost of at least 1 lb. of honey. We may contract or enlarge the hive to suit the necessities of the stock or the season, and thus dispose of all controversy as to the proper size of our hive=. We can supply weak hives with combs of hatching brood taken from stronger stocks, or with combs of honey if provision be found scarce. We can with ease cut out royal cells-, to prevent swarming, or insert them where we wish to have queens raised, or we may join stocks by simply lifting the combs and bees of two or more into a common hive ; or, vice versa, we may divide a stock as in artificial swarm¬ ing. Here again we claim the undeniable superiority of the move¬ able-comb hive. Lastly, we note the facility with which such hives may be de¬ prived of their surplus honey. Moveable combs can, by the aid of the machine called the honey-extractor, now so extensively used, be in a few minutes emptied of their contents and returned un¬ damaged to be refilled by the bees. When we consider that the production of wax is not only a costly but a slow operation, neces¬ sitating the perfect inactivity of the bees so engaged, it is evident that the usual plan of crushing the combs to obtain the honey is a needlessly wasteful one, and it is established as a fact that bees supplied with combs ready made store more than twice as much honey as when they have also the combs to build. Extracted honey 60 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 18, 1883. obtained by this process is besides absolutely pure, and a great contrast to that usually obtained from crushed combs, in which may generally be found not only a considerable proportion of wax, but of pollen and the juices of grubs or immature bees. Objections have been taken to the rectangular shape of the bar- frame hive on the ground that is not so well suited to the globular form in which bees naturally cluster, but this objection holds true to all hives so long as they are larger than the cluster of bees. Indeed, large skeps such as are now chiefly recommended are the most objectionable of all hives in this respect. They entirely con¬ form to the ideal form in summer when they are full of bees ; but at this season all hives under proper management are also filled with bees, and even though vacant corners may exist, the warmth of the temperature renders these but slightly objectionable. In winter, however, when the bees shrink into small bulk, so much of the interior of these large skeps is unoccupied that, as a matter of fact, the combs so exposed are in the greatest danger of becoming damp and mould}'. In the Stewarton hive this objection is lessened by the removal of such sections of the hive as are not occupied by the bees, but with regular bar-frame hives the objection may be entirely removed by the limely contraction of the space to such dimensions as the bees can easily keep warm and dry, in which case the globular form is of no further advantage. There has also been much controversy as to the best material for hives, mainly between the advocates of wood and straw respectively. Doubtless the large accession during late years to the ranks of bee¬ keepers of beginners imperfectly versed in the principles of the and damp from beneath. The cavity between the quilt and the tops of the frames affords a warm winter passage from comb to comb, and is always found full of bees. The roof of the hive is not shown here. — William Raitt, Blairgowrie. (To be continued.) STIMULATING FEEDING FOR BEES IN AUTUMN. I WAS surprised to read “ P. H. P.’s ” remarks on autumn stimulating feeding. Does he mean to say that he can induce his queens to start laying after they have ceased in the autumn ? After many years’ trial 1 find it not worth the trouble, and I am borne out by several English and Scotch bee-keepers of no mean repute. I know “ P. H. P.” to be a good bee-keeper, but I should like the opinions of others. If the stocks are scarce of food by all means feed them, not without. I find in most cases the best results not in autumn stimulating feeding, but in spring feeding.— Stingek. SEPARATORS A NECESSITY. The use of separators having become to me “ a necessity,” and as some prominent apiarists seem to think “ they are a useless appen¬ dage ” in the modern bee hive, it is just possible there maybe certain conditions in which we may get good combs without them, but I have yet to find them. It has been said the hive must be full of bees, and honey coming in fast ; then, with sections filled with good thin comb foundation, no trouble would be experienced. I determined to give this matter a fair trial during the past season, and so prepared six good colonies, with upper storeys filled with wide frames, all being filled with 1 lb. sections, and each containing a full sheet of thin foundation, thus giving them such good facilities for management of bar-frame hives, many of whom have reported disaster to their stocks from cold or damp, has tended to create a prejudice to the use of wood as a material for hives. The early forms of the bar-frame hive also tended to such untoward results. But now it is quite different, and hives of wood are now made that for warmth and dryness are not surpassed by the best straw hives made. The art of working straw hives is confined to the few, while any handy man can construct a hive of wood. The rough¬ ness and inflexibility of straw is against it as a material for rect¬ angular bar-frame hives, though such are occasionally made of it. Besides, it requires an outer casing almost as costly as the hive itself. Its sole advantage is its superiority as a non-conductor of heat, and it is here that the great improvement in bar-frame hives has been most marked of late years. First of all the wooden crown board was abolished, and in its stead was introduced the porous quilt of carpet or house flannel, supplemented in winter by an extra covering of chaff or cork dust. Next, the sides of the hive opposite the frame ends were doubled so as to give an inch or more of dead air as a non-conductor, this space being sometimes also packed with chaff or other light material. And lastly, the plan of removing the outer combs before winter and filling their place with chaff, &c., completed the arrangements of a hive that for security against cold and damp is undoubtedly superior to the best straw hive ever made. We give sections both ways of such a hive showing its arrangement for winter. (See figs. 14 and 15.) Note. — The stippled spaces inside the hive represent the chaff¬ packing, and that underneath the sawdust, which protects from cold comb-building that I thought if ever good combs could be had with¬ out separators I would have them. The result provpd exactly the reverse. The honey season being a good one the bees soon built them out and filled them with honey, but when I came to crate these same boxes for market more than one-half had to be laid aside for the home market ; and even then they are a “ bother and vexa¬ tion of spirit,” as they are sure to crowd against each other and start the honey to leaking ; and these combs, be they bulged ever so little, are likely to have the caps of the cells broken if they but touch each other. It seems to me the only advantage we could gain in discarding them lies in the fact that more honey can be stored in the same box ; but this is of little account when we sell the wood in the box at the same price as the finest honey. Sup¬ posing, then, we must use separators, shall we use wood, tin, or paper P I have never used anything but tin, though I am assured by a friend of mine, who uses wood entirely, that it is just as good as tin. However, another important item comes in here. Will as much honey be stored with as without them ? I have thought some seasons the bees were reluctant to work among them ; then, again, they seemed to pay no attention, but worked as busily as though no separators were present.— J. V. Caldwell (in The American Bee Journal.) TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Wm. Cutbush & Son, Highgate and Barnet. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. Dicksons & Co., Waterloo Place, Edinburgh. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. James Dickson , Red.... 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 1 0 2 0 Figs . dozen 0 8 1 0 dessert . . . dozen 1 0 2 0 Filberts . lb. 0 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English fb. 1 6 2 0 Cobs . 100 lb . 50 0 55 0 lb. 0 0 0 0 Gooseberries .... ^ sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries • • • • lb. 0 0 0 0 VEGETABLES. 8 d. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d- dozen 2 0to4 0 1 ftt.nl 6 Asparagus . bundle 0 0 0 0 Mushroom s punnet i 0 i 6 Beans, Kidney .... 100 i 0 0 0 Mustard & Cress . punnet 0 2 0 8 Beet, Red . dozen i 0 2 0 Onions . bushel 2 3 2 6 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 1 8 Parsley . doz. bunches 3 0 4 0 Brussels Sprouts. . } sieve 1 e 2 0 Parsnips .... dozen I 0 2 0 Cabbage . dozen 0 6 1 0 Peas . quart 0 0 8 0 Capsicums . 100 1 6 2 0 Potatoes .... cwt. 8 0 7 8 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Kidney.... cwt. 8 0 8 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 Radishes.... doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Celery . bundle 1 6 2 0 Rhubarb . bundle 0 4 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Salsafy . bundle X 0 0 0 Cucumbers . each i 6 2 0 Scorzbnera . bundle i 8 0 8 Endive . dozen i 0 2 0 Seakale . basket i 0 2 0 Fennel . bunch 0 8 0 0 Shallots . lb. o 3 0 0 Garlic . lb. 0 6 0 0 Spinach . bushel 8 0 0 0 Herbs . bunch 2 0 0 Tomatoes . . tb. 0 8 1 0 Leeks . bunch 0 8 0 4 Turnips .... bunch 0 2 0 8 Renovating Vines (/. Smith, Surrey). — According to your description of them the Vines of which you have taken charge are in a very unsatisfactory state, and your first proposition if it could have been carried out would not only have been the most satisfactory, but in the end the most economical, as the value of the fruit would have been so much greater than the produce of exhausted Vines however well they may be managed. But gentlemen do not always regard matters from a purely commercial point of view, and if they do they have reasons for not desiris^ to invest their money as a gardener may naturally wish. In such a case as yours a gardener must simply accept the position and make the best of it. This we are sure you will do, and your letter affords evidence that you will do all that can be done towards restoring the lost vigour of the neglected Vines. We do not think you can adopt a better plan than the one you propose, of trenching the border, making good the drainage, utilising the good soil, and replacing the bad with the best compost at your disposal, cutting off the old roots at the bottom of the border, and placing the smaller and healthier in good soil nearer the surface, and leaving 4 feet next the house untrenched at present, but enriched for supporting the crop next season. In lifting the roots we should notch them at intervals, making a straight cut downwards and half through the roots, meeting it with a cut slanting upwards. These roots we should surronnd with fresh compost, consisting in great part of wood ashes. Even if only placed round them an inch or two thick, you will find it of great advantage in facilitating the emission of fresh roots, and the border should be mulched for keeping the surface moist in the summer. It is surface drought and disturbing the border by digging that drives the roots of Vines downwards. The heat from the sun will never attract them to the surface, as some persons erroneously suppose, if the soil is loose and dry. In addition to improving the border we should at once cut down every alternate cane to the bottom of the rafter. You have nothing to lose by doing this, as the rods are far too numerous, but we think you have much to gaiu, as in all probability fresh growths will start from the shortened rods, and by selecting the best from each you may with better root-action succeed in obtaining good young canes the first season ; or, if rather weak, you would by cutting them down again insure stout growths and fine canes next year, these to be treated as young Vines. In the meantime the existing rods will, if not too much exhausted, maintain the supply of Grapes ; but to effect this in the best manner we should not spur-in the laterals closely, but should retain the best of them, shortening at the most prominent bud where the wood is hard and matured. Whether each bud is 3 inches from the main rod or thrice that distance, tying if needful these shortened, but still long, bearing portions to the main rod. The base buds of exhausted Vims are always weak and produce weak growths and small bunches, if any, the bolder buds producing stronger growths and, provided the wood is ripened, better bunches. By carrying out this method intelligently and disbud¬ ding freely, disposing the best growths thinly for a future crop, you will possibly be surprised by the results. We have proved the value of this practice, and have seen it carried out by others in the most satisfactory manner until the young canes trained between the bearing rods have attained a strong free-bearing state, the older portions being then in turn cut out. We desirod to answer your letter fully, as our reply may be of service to others, hence the little delay that has occurred in attending to the matter, as an earlier answer would have been necessarily shorter and consequently less useful. Names of Fruits ( William Ileale). — The Apple is Pigeon. The Pear is Martin Sec, a very old French variety. (IF. Henry Ashmn).— 1, Trumpington. The other we do not recognise ; it possesses little or no merit. Names of Plants (J. C.). — 1, Davallia tenuifolia ; 2, Libonia penrhosiensis. (Subscriber). — 1, Abies lasiocarpa ; 2, Juniperus chinensis, the male form ; 3, Pinus Lambertiana; 4, Pinus Cembra ; 5, Abies canadensis ; 6, Cedrus, probably Deodara. It is highly desirable that the habits of the trees be stated when sprays are sent for naming. POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. GOAT FARMING. ( Continued frontpage 41.) We have stated the peculiarities of certain species of Goats, and wish to name all the best sorts which are all likely by crossing to contribute to the improvement of the capacity of yielding milk, meat, and mohair. Having, through the ex¬ perience and intelligence of breeders both of cattle and sheep, obtained all that we require, this is a good reason why we should be able to accomplish and obtain what we desire in breeding Goats in order that Goat-farming may become a profitable pursuit, and at the same time interesting to amateurs. It is necessary to know the habits and capabilities of the best varieties before we can attempt cross-breeding, and this is ex¬ tremely necessary, simply because no single pure breed will yield all we wish for to the fullest extent. We, therefore, now refer to the Angora Goat ; and as we find it well described by the same author we have previously quoted, Mr. S. Holmes, in an essay in the “Live Stock Journal Almanack,” and his description is the best we have met with. He says : — “ The Angora Goat differs considerably both from the common Goat and from the Cashmere, although with the latter it is often confounded. It is met with in Asia Minor under almost as great a diversity of form, size, and characteristic as are our own in England, some being a reddish- brown, others white, and at times even quite black. Their ears also vary from being short and almost upright to moderately long and pendant. The horns, in like manner, are of various descriptions ; in some cases nearly perpendicular, in others curling laterally, but always more or less spirally inclined. Even the true Angora — that is to say, the breeds which are cultivated for producing the finest and best mohair, are not all of the same type, equally good clips being obtained from some of the small half-pricked-eared varieties as from the lops, whilst again, although most of the herds are white, there are brown and occasionally black animals which yield heavy fleeces. January 18, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 63 “ The following points are those which, by the generality of the mohair breeders, are looked for. A fine head with ears semi- pendulous, wide, and thin, horns fine at the base and tapering gradually to a point, flat-shaped, and set as far apart from each other as possible. In the male they should make a direct curve to the rear as soon as they leave the head, bending then outward, and finally pointed upwards, forming a spiral. In the female they grow out more in a lateral direction as they separate at the base, the spiral being more decided, and the extremities directed downwards. The shape and expression of the face in the Angora strongly resembles that of the sheep, with which it has many characteristics in common. “The coat is composed of two descriptions of hair, the principal of which is a fine silky kind of wool, which hangs in long wide flakes, terminating in ringlets all over the body and down to the hocks. In the most valued specimens these flaky strands of wool are closely matted at the base, so that after being sheared the whole falls in a united mass like the fleece of a sheep. It is this substance which is known commercially under the name of mo¬ hair. The other and inner coat is of the same nature as the hair of the common Goat ; it is quite short, and grows close to the skin. This is no doubt intended by Nature as a protection to the animal when the outer covering falls, as it does every spring un¬ less shorn, and until its growth is sufficiently restored. “The yield of fleece varies greatly according to the age, sex, and quality of the individual, the average produce of an ordinary herd, reckoning adults and kids of both sexes, being about 2^ lt»3. each, but in herds of the best breeds it reaches an average of 6 lbs. The greatest weight is taken from the rams, but the finest quality from the castrated males of two, three, and four years old. A fine well-bred entire Goat will sometimes yield as much as 10 and 12 Its., the length of the strands being from 8 to 9 inches. The value ranges from 3s. 6d. a lb. for the very best, to 2s. and less for very inferior qualities. “ The endeavours which on a few occasions have been made to acclimatise them for commercial purposes in England have sig¬ nally failed, our atmosphere and soil being much too damp. In 1848 a choice herd was sent by the Sultan as a present to Dr. J. B. Davis in the United States. Referring to this importation an American author writes : — They do surprisingly well on the Pacific coast as far as introduced, but especially in California and Arisona, whose climate and topography closely resembles that of their Asiatic home.’ At the Cape of Good Hope, where large numbers of Angoras have of late years been bred, they appear to do as well as on their native hills, the quality of their produce comparing favourably in many cases with exports from the East. When Goat-farming soon became general, the rate at which it pro¬ gressed may be judged by the fact that whereas the export of mohair in 1865, the first year, was only 6804 lbs., it had by 1S77 reached as much as 1,395,850 lbs. “ The finest specimens of the Angora that ever left their native country were imported to this colony in the spring of 1879, when Mr. J. B. Evans, a large and enterprising farmer of these animals at Scoorsteenberg, Eastern Province, brought over from Asia Minor a herd of twenty-seven head, to secure which he had left the Cape two months previous, and travelled into the heart of the Angora country, where he obtained, but only at fabulous prices, the flock in question, valued at £2000. As these animals were transhipped at the Victoria Docks in London, an oppor¬ tunity was afforded me through the kindness of the importer, of inspecting them, and I am therefore indebted to Mr. Evans for much of the information upon this breed which I am able to place before my readers. An idea of the superiority of this consign¬ ment may be gathered when it is stated that the weight of fleece of the males averaged from 12 lbs. to 15 lbs., and that of the females from 7 lbs. to 8 lbs. “ The flesh of the Angora closely resembles mutton, to which in its native country it is much preferred, whilst its milk, though less plentiful than that of the common Goat, is mudi richer. As it feeds more freely on grass than the latter, and fattens easier, being less fond of browsing on hedges, it is considered by Mr. Evans probable that a cross between the two varieties would be better suited for pasturing in small herds in England for the sake of the milk than our own breeds, provided only they were located on dry soil and housed in winter.” This concludes our quotation, which although it has extended to an unwonted length, and is throughout not only interesting to the general reader, but of great importance to us in the considera¬ tion of our subject, and the observations we shall have to make in reference to the obtaining all the combined qualities in one and the same type of animal, which may be obtained by crossing and judicious mating of the animals, and which we shall endeavour to describe as the result of our many years’ experience in the cross-breeding of sheep, and describing as far as possible the means whereby we hope to obtain success. For as “like begets like ” is a truism, we can adopt a system of breeding whereby the desirable qualities of one type or species may be so blended as to improve any other, and yet obtain the advantages of both, by excluding or obliterating undesired points, whilst profiting by and retaining superior qualities to the extent we may require. (To be continued.) WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — Wheat-sowing as fast as the ground is ploughed daily is the work still going on at every favourable interval, but very much yet remains to be done on the strong and flat-lying soils in every district. This employs the horses when it is possible to work the land so as to bury the seed, but on heavy soils scarcely any drill¬ ing has been possible, therefore broadcast seeding has been the mode adopted. If the weather continues changeable and the ground not so heavy but that the seed can be fairly buried, the sowing since Christmas is likely to produce a more regular plant of Wheat than much of the ground sown in November and early part of December. In such a season as we have just passed through the chalk hill lands, sandy land districts, and generally vale soils have had the advantage over the mixed or heavy soils ; for at almost all intervals the fallow- ploughing has been continued upon those farms which had finished the sowing of Wheat at the early period. In other cases the carting of earth for compost heaps of manure has been the work for horses, also the carting of chalk or marl where the distance is not too great from the pit has been done. In many cases, however, the railways will supply chalk and bring it within reach of various farms which must otherwise be treated with lime and mineral manures. The work of obtaining these substances and placed in store or heap is very important, and in various districts great complaints are made of the cereal crops being subject to blight or mildew. This in our opinion is often caused by the absence of chalk or lime in the soil, for it is not sufficient that the home farmer shall liberally manure his land in various ways to enable it to pro¬ duce a full crop of straw. If lime and silica are entirely or partially absent in the land the growth of straw may be abundant, but the straw will be weak, and in seasons like the past it will be subject to disease on the surface of the stem, and be attacked with parasites of various kinds and be called blighted or mildewed. The straw will then go down and be lodged without the ears being properly filled with grain, which would not be the case as a rule if the carbonate or common lime had been liberally applied to the soil, but especially in the fen lands of the eastern counties, and vegetable loams of some of the western counties. We are so strongly convinced of the necessity of the applications we have named to such soils as we have indicated that we shall continue to repeat these opinions until we notice that they are somewhat more generally taken up and acted upon. In the districts where chalking was formerly pursued as an important operation in the tillage of the land it is shown that the numerous chalk pits and limekilns are at present for the most part unused and neglected. Hand Labour. — Whilst open weather continues forking-out grass from the root crops may still be done, also on some lands intended for Lent corn after Wheat ; and this is a matter of great economy, inasmuch that a small outlay in manual labour will save the larger outlay in horse labour to a great extent in the tillage for spring crops. Hedging, ditching, banking, and planting trees for plantations of Larch and other Firs may now be done with advan¬ tage, and where the land in hand is not good enough for tillage or pasture it can be turned to good account by being planted for timber or hop poles, the latter giving the quickest return. Live Stoclc. — This is now the busy time for shepherds having charge of the various breeds of Down sheep, for the lambing will now be going on, or preparations should be made for the near approach of the lambing season of later flocks. We hear much of the death of sheep in some districts by the coathe or rot through flukes in the liver. For several years, but especially in 1879 and 1880, the losses by rot were enormous, and we see a difference of opinion exists as to the possibility of curing sheep with flukes in the liver, and it still remains an open question whether it can be done or not; but we blame every farmer who has suffered in former years from losses by rotten sheep if he still continues to pursue the system of feeding sheep on doubtful soils without using the necessary precautions, for it can certainly be prevented or avoided, and prevention being better than cure, it is within the farmer’s power to prevent losses by rot, which we have explained fully in articles in this Journal on the 31st of July and 7th of August in 1879. Under the present circumstances as to the high price of cattle and sheep, the latter especially, we recommend that all the stock required for fattening should be bred on the farm, in which case if there is any profit to be obtained it will be done to the fullest extent only in the breeding of all animals required on the farm, the benefit being not only certain, but arising or accruing in various ways, one of which is the avoidance of disease brought on the farm by purchased stock, and as the seasons vary the breeder is said to have the advan¬ tage in some years, and the feeder in others ; we say, therefore, Take both and be satisfied. There is much lameness amongst sheep, especially where they are feeding on roots on strong or flat-lying land. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 64 [ January 18, 1863. The only way to keep it under is by constant attention, having the sheep penned every day, and those which are attacked to be treated with the remedy the first day they are seen, for the difficulties in curing are consequent upon allowing the disease to extend under the hoof of the foot. It is, therefore, a question of immediate treatment, and let the labour of attention be freely supplied, for we have known the value of the cake consumed entirely lost by inattention at the proper time. THE POINTS OF JAPANESE BANTAMS. As fresh breeds of poultry come into popularity fanciers turn their attention to their points of beauty. It seems to us high time that admirers of Japanese Bantams should arrive at some under¬ standing as to what are the chief characteristics of their quaint favourites. We believe that a Sub-committee of the Poultry Club, which has with much labour been drawing up a “ standard of per¬ fection” for many of the larger breeds, will ere long be approaching Bantams. There is, we understand, likely to be a conference be¬ tween this Committee and the Bantam Club to arrive at a standard which may generally be received by judges and fanciers of Bantams. We do not here wish to anticipate them by drawing up a standard of our own, but merely to point out the fact that there is no breed of Bantams so well recognised as Japanese are, so well represented at almost every show, and so distinctly characterised, about which some of our generally best judges seem to have such vague ideas. Classes have for three or four years been given for them at the Crystal Palace, and they are well filled. We wonder that they con¬ tinue so to be, for we must confess that once if not twice about the worst pair in the wrhole class has been picked out for the cup, at least according to the consentient voice of three or four of their oldest admirers. Of course it is not very easy to arrive at the proper standard points of a breed which is imported from the ends of the earth, and with whose first producers or present breeders in their native land it is almost impossible for us to communicate. If a new variety were by selection perpetuated here, as were Laced Bantams by Sir John Sebright, the founder of the race would of course start with some ideal of what he wished to arrive at, and would make it known to those who followed him. In the case, however, of breeding a variety whose cradle is so very far off there seem to us only three possible courses — 1, We may follow some standard either written or derived from pictures procured from the land whence the breed comes. 2, We may observe the points of apparently the most characteristic imported birds, and their general harmony, and breed up to them. 3, We may take a breed as it comes to us and arbi¬ trarily decide that we like this or that point and do not like the other. We will illustrate our distinctions by actual examples — 1, Japanese Silkies were for a long time very far from a distinctly characteristic race. Were they to have four claws or five claws ? Were their combs to be double or single, their faces red or purple, their legs clean or feathered ? All these salient points were debated, and so an open question. By degrees their admirers gleaned what information they could from eastern travellers, and came to a general conclusion that a four-toed red-faced Silky was an Indian fowl, but that in Japan the Silky usually had a very dark double comb, dark face, and five claws. There was still a question as to whether the earlobes should be black or of a beautiful turquoise blue we some¬ times see. Wandering in the Japanese department of the great Paris Exhibition of 1878 we came upon an exquisitely painted screen, and there saw a trio of our favourite Silkies portrayed with evi¬ dently scrupulous accuracy ; all their points agreed with the now received standard, and their earlobes were bright blue. Silkies, then, have in the main been bred on the first of these systems — viz., according to the ideal of their native fanciers. Possibly minor points, such as that vulture hocks are in them an eyesore, have been decided on the second — viz., because they do not harmonise with the general characteristics of the bird. 2, Cochins and Pekin Ducks have, according to the second course we enumerated, been bred up to those points which seemed the most distinctive one of imported birds. The general rotundity and fluffiness of Cochins were the points which on their first importa¬ tion struck all beholders, and these have consequently been received as their most important characteristics. In the case of Pekin Ducks, their peculiar stilted gait and lemon tinge of plumage were some¬ thing quite different from other Ducks, and at once became, and reasonably so we think, characteristics to be sought. 3, The third course open to breeders is one w’hich has also been followed, but which we think extremely undesirable in the case of imported breeds of well-marked features. When Leghorns were first brought to us from America, whither they had probably gone from Italy, they had as now yellow legs and corresponding yellow earlobes. Certainly the latter appendages were of a silky hue and not beautiful, but the best and finest birds had them, and probably they had long appertained to the breed. At once English fanciers set to work to get rid of them ; ihey crossed Leghorns with Minorcas, forgot about size, about colour of hackle, about brightness of legs — the great object was white earlobes. They have almost been ob¬ tained, but at great sacrifice. This is simply a puerile fancy, and not the breeding of true fanciers. We have instanced these cases to show the way in which we think a well-defined oriental breed like Japanese Bantams should be approached. Things in the east move slowly ; but if slow, easterns are very persevering. 1 1 is probable that all selection of particular specimens with the view of producing or perpetuating peculiarities originated in the east. It has doubtless been the cradle of our races of fancy poultry and fancy Pigeons as it has been of races of men. It is impossible not to admire the patience and perseverance of those who have produced the many curious types of oriental Pigeons, or distinctive miniature races like the Pekin or Japanese Bantam. When intelligent people have for generations been aim¬ ing at producing a bird with certain characteristics it is perfectly ridiculous for us, their inferiors in the skill and patience necessary for such a task, just to decide that this is and that is not to be a point of a breed without doing our best to discover what its producers and native fanciers consider to be its beauty. As in the case of J apanese Silkies, there is much probability that in these days when commu¬ nication, even in Japan, is ever becoming easier, travelling fanciers will give us some information, and some may be gained possibly from pictures, as to the true standard for these Bantams. At all events, we hope that those who have to draw up such a standard for the guidance of breeders will look to the points of those imported birds which are evidently highly bred. They will, we fancy, have little difficulty in seeing that short legs and long tails carried squirrel-wise are among their characteristics, and then we shall not see a cup card over a pair with long legs and small tails. It matters not so much who wins this or that prize, but it is a pity that by such an award unthinking English fanciers should be encouraged to try and spoil a beautiful type of bird which it has probably taken various intelligent Japanese a few generations to obtain. — C. OUR LETTER BOX. Silver-Laced Bantam ( Baltimore ). — If there is the slightest discharge from the nostrils do not let the bird run with the rest. Try effect of inject¬ ing dilute solution of chrorinated soda through the nostril, two parts water to one of the solution. If this does not answer you can only cut open the face and remove the cheesey formation. Fowls Pecking off Each Other’s Feathers (G. A.). — Your fowls lack something, or they are overfed. Supply them with growing sods of grass, and let plenty of fresh soil be taken up with these; let the birds also have lime and bricklayers’ rubbish in their run. If you have Lettuces, give some to the fowls. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 61° 32' 40" N. ; Long. 0° 8' 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. date. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. 1883 O C3 _ DM oi 4) 9-^:0 > Hygrome¬ ter. P . P 2? Qo 0-9 . . CJ o — C e ■ -jr O 6 o*~ 1 Eh Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. 6 c3 w January Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Sun. 7 Mon. 8 Tues. 9 Wed. lo Thurs. 11 Friday 12 Satur. 13 Inches. 30.491 30.262 29.807 2:1.645 29.605 29.611 29.313 dee:. 39.6 32.7 35.4 40.6 40.1 39.6 40.4 dee. 37.7 32.3 32.4 39.7 39.7 38.0 39.9 N.E. N.E. E. S.E. S.E. S.E. S.E. dee. 43.0 42.1 40.8 40.1 4o.7 41.0 41.0 dee 40.8 42.0 39.8 43.2 41.4 41.9 44.3 dee. 38.2 30.7 32.1 33.2 39.0 37.8 38.5 deg. 47.9 60.2 58 8 46.1 42.3 52.3 47.9 deg. 35.4 25.2 31.9 29 A 33.5 37.2 37.0 In. 0.029 0.019 0.014 0.038 29.819 38.3 37.1 41.2 41.9 85.6 50.8 32.8 0.100 REMARKS. 7th. — Pine, bright, and cool. 8th. — Pine with bright sunshine, rain at 8.30 P.M. 9th.— Dry, very cold wind ; bright sunshine in forenoon. 10th. — Cold and damp. 11th. — Dull and overcast throughout. 12th. — Dry, overcast, except for short interval at out noon. 13th. — Dull and damp, with rain. The temperature has fallen rapidly to about its usual value, but accompanied by much damp and cloud, which has kept the range of temperature very sma’l. — G. J. SYMONS. January 25, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. G5 25 th Tn Koval Society at 4.80 P.M. 26th F Quekett Club at 8 P.M. 27th S Royal Botanic Society at 3.45 P.M. 28th SDN Sexagesima. 29th M Sale of Liliums at Mr. Stevens’s Rooms, King Street, Covent 30th TD [Garden, 3. st W Society of Arts at 8 P.M. POTTING SHEDS— A SUGGESTION. ^2^ VERY week something instructive or in¬ teresting is forthcoming in the Journal of Horticulture for each class of readers, and frequently we are favoured with articles that the majority, whether they he employers or employed, are con¬ strained to read with more than passing interest. In this latter category I should like to include my theme, being under the im¬ pression that a garden without a potting shed is quite as incomplete as a builder’s yard would he without a workshop. We meet with many strange apologies for potting sheds ; in fact, according to my experience, utterly unsuitable structures are the rule, the exceptions being very few indeed. In some instances they are dark, cold, and wet ; others are much too small, and it may he extremely dry and dusty, owing to the fact of the presence of the stokehole ; others, again, are incon¬ veniently disposed either as regards contiguity to the frame ground and compost yard, or too great a distance from the plant houses. Many have to he contented with the corner of a shed which also has to he utilised for storing roots, pots, carts, wheelbarrows, and tools. Yet it is in these miserable makeshifts much of the most important work connected with the majority of gardens has to he performed ; and is it to be wondered at if it is “ scamped,” more especially by the assistants, who may be thinking more about getting into warmer quarters than the work in hand ? Slates and tiles have been too long employed for covering roofs where glass might with advantage have been substituted, and it is surprising to me that our undoubtedly clever horticultural architects and builders have not more fully realised this. Designs in abun¬ dance are forthcoming for houses adapted to the culture of all kinds of plants and fruits, and why should not potting houses be included ? Not hut what most gar¬ deners are competent to design such a structure , but what is really wanted is the suggestion conveyed either by illustration and advertisement or a discussion in your columns. Once let employers as well as gardeners realise that a potting house may be made a source of profit and pleasure, and I venture to assert many new ones on improved principles will he constructed, as well as many old ones modified. For several years I have hoped to he in a position to arrange for the con¬ struction of a house on a very different principle to any I have yet seen, hut as I appear to he as far off as ever from the realisation of my project, I am now writing with the motive of inducing others to profit by my not quite original conception. What I wish to construct is a combination of potting house and either vinery, orchard, or plant house, and I have had ample proof the idea is by no means impracticable. My ideal potting house wou.d necessarily be disposed, built, heated, and utilised according to circumstances, everything depending upon the arrangement of the plant and fruit houses, whether much exposed or not, contiguity to the boilers, and what class of house either for fruit or plant culture was most required. In many cases it would have a span-roof, the walls to support this being about 9 feet high all round, the ends above this height being glazed. I would dispose a strong potting bench along the darkest side, a staging of the same width round the rest of the available space, and a strong shelf considerably higher completely round the house. These benches and shelves would be found serviceable for plant-growing, and more especially for drying cff many plants and bulbs w hich generally, even when fairly treated, present a very poor appearance in the plant houses ; and where unfairly treated — that is to say, when stored away under the stages, are apt to prove disappointing when taken in hand again. The roof could be utilised for Grape, Peach, and Nectarine culture, or if preferable, especially in an unheated structure, for Pears and Plums, the roots of these in each instance being confined in narrow raised brick pits under the benches. Roses, again, would succeed admirably on the roof or trained across over¬ head, and if preferable both these and Grape Vines may easily be planted in an outside border. I may mention having had the pleasure last season of inspect¬ ing a plant of Gloire de Dijon Pose growing in a very poor though light potting shed, which was carrying fully two hundred expanded blooms, while numberless buds were developing. I have also seen good Grapes growm in a potting house disposed on the north side of a garden wall and at the end of a range of houses. If these results are possible under difficulties much better things might be achieved in a well-designed house. It may be said, “ Why build a house for potting pur¬ poses that will cost as much as an ordinary plant or fruit house ?” I argue, Is it not better to provide a roomy, light, and warm structure where most important work can be performed comfortably and without possible injury to the plants, especially seeing that this same house, besides being a boon to the employed, can be made profitable to the proprietor ? According to pre¬ sent arrangements much of the potting necessary in the case of hothouse plants has to be performed in the houses where the plants are growing, simply because the sheds are too cold or otherwise unsuitable for the work. A potting house or shed need not necessarily be the receptacle of all kinds of rubbi h, including heaps of soil, broken crocks, dirty and clean flower pots ; on the contrary, all these even in many cases under the present arrangements should be properly disposed elsewhere. As before stated, slates and tiles have too long been relied upon for covering roofs, as a glass rod if origin¬ ally dearer is the cheapest eventually. Many an out¬ house, if glazed instead of being covered with slates or tiles, would easily be adapted for hardy fruit culture. With the aid of glass and no great amount of skill in cultivation, such kinds as Apricots, Plums, Cherries, Figs, and in many districts Peaches and Nectarines, could be relied on to yield abundantly, and without No. 135.— Vol. VI., Third series. No. 1791.— Vol. LXIX.. Old series. G6 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 25, 1883. materially interfering with the utility of the structure. Some of the best Grapes I have seen this season, and which were bought in this district, were grown in a glass corridor originally constructed for the purpose of afford¬ ing a covered way between a private house and an office. A friend of mine grows Cucumbers in an engine room, and we also hear of similar places being utilised for plant culture. Glass is of necessity freely employed in the construction of railway signal boxes, and most of us have seen many of these gay with healthy pot plants. One other example of the advantages of a glass roof and I have done. Several years ago I walked a con¬ siderable distance to see the crops of fruit hanging on a number of trees grown under a timber shed owned by a builder at Beeston near Nottingham. If I remem¬ ber rightly ihe glass roof was supported at the back by a low garden wall, and in the front, which was highest and open, with pillars at wide intervals. Here was stored a great quantity of timber, while the roof was covered with Apricot, Peach, Nectarine, and Plum trees. The fruit of the former had been picked, but the others were beautifully fruited. Pitmaston Orange Nectarine and Coe’s Golden Drop Plum were particu¬ larly fine. The trees were standard-trained, and I believe were planted and trained under the surveillance of the late Mr. Pearson of the Chilwell Nurseries. — W. Iggulden. CURRENT TOPICS. INSECTICIDES— CARBOLIC ACID AND METHYLATED SPIRITS— WATERING, VENTILATING. There is nothing, I quite agree with W. Litchfield of Coventry, like soft water and the syringe as an insecticide. If plants are kept in good health by proper care and attention in watering and syringing there is not the same need for insecti ¬ cides, and a little soft soap in the water used at a tempera tire of 120° to 130° will do no plants harm, and is a pretty sure remedy against red spider, thrips, and green fly. I am, how¬ ever, very much surprised that so many persons still recommend tha most dangerous insecticide under its different names of paraffin, petroleum, kerosene oil, &c. It is quite insoluble in water. No doubt with soft soap, soda, and constantly working the syringe into the mixture it may for a time he separated into smaller particles, but it is almost always left behind on the leaves in its original form of paraffin, and nothing is more destructive to tender foliage than it is. The smell, too, which is left behind when a house has been freely syringed with it, is enough to drive anyone out of it for many days, and, after all, it will not kill mealy bug. 1 have found carbolic acid much safer to use ; merely the common commercial carbolic acid. One of the simplest ways is to get half a dozen dr more clear quart winebo'.tles and place in half of them about an ounce of carbolic acid each, then fill up with soft wa er. When the acid, which is heavier than the water, has settled pour off the liquid, which will be nearly clear, in o one of the empty bottles, and continue the process till all the acid is dissolved. The result is a saturated solution, as pure soft water is capable of dissolving, according 1o the strength of the carbolic acid, a certain per-centage. This solution may be corked for use, and about one part to ten be added in the water used for syringing. It is especially useful for scale and the white aphis, and one advantage is that it does not leave the same unpleasant smell behind, nor does it injure paint as soft soap and paraffin does. It is better no, to use it too strong with tender young foliage, but plants that have stiffer foliage, such as Camellias and Cyclamens, can bear it stronger. I have also found methylated spirit a very useful application to destroy mealy bug, used with a feather or camel’s-hair brush in places where it is difficult to remove with a sponge. Take, for instance, the flower of the Poinsettias in the centre of the brae is, and those of the Stephanotis when first showing buds. May I ask those who have tried fir-tree oil whether there is any practical difference between it and pure turpentine, which I have of en used in very weak solution, especially for black aphides on Peach trees in a small unheated Peach house, syringing afterwards with pure water ? While speaking of the free use of soft water, I can quite corroborate the remarks of one of your correspondents on the subject of watering plants, especially, I may say, in winter and early spring. I find it most difficult to make persons who are not thoroughly experienced in watering understand when to water and how to water. So many men water all the plants in a house, when they are told to water, indiscriminately, whether they are in large pots or small, or whether they are dry or not, or whether exposed to the action of hot-water pipes or standing in the cooler parts of the house. I remember once in a friend’s garden being asked by the gardener what to do to prevent Calceolarias damping off. He took me to see them, and I saw the bedding Calceolaria amplexicaulis and C. aurea floribunda in small pots on shelves in a vinery facing the south, catching every ray of sun there might be, and flagging by want of water. He was rather surprised when I told him the only chance was to take them down from the shelf and plunge each in a bucket of water, and then to stand them in the coolest place he could find ; and he was still more sur¬ prised when I told him that none of my bedding Calceolarias were ever inside a house, but were always struck in the open ground with a frame over them, and merely protected by litter in severe weather. Some persons, again, only keep the surface of the soil damp, giving a slight sprinkling with a rose on the surface, whereas the roots may be as dry as ever. Others, again, when the pots are thoroughly dry and the soil cracked away from the sides, hear the water go through, and think that the plant must be properly watered. Nothing in my experience injures plants more in winter when fire heat has to be kept up than allowing them to be too dry at the roots, especially wffien on open staging over hot- water pipes, for when once the leaves of a plant flag by want of water the younger and tender rootlets are sure to suffer. The question of ventilation, too, which has much to do with watering, has cropped up in your last issue. For my part I am sure that in winter very little ventilation is ever required, as hot-water pipes secure a constant circulation of air. I have openings in the brickwork under the stages with moveable shutters worked by means of a cord, and air is supplied under the plants so as to come in contact with the hot-water pipes before it is admitted to the house. What we have to avoid is cold draughts, which are not necessary for securing a proper change of air. — C. P. P. TASTES IN FLORICULTURE. In his note on “ Horticulture in 1882 " “ D., Deal," speak¬ ing of the “ craze for single Dahlias” (page 5G) says, “ The craze has, I think, been evidently encouraged by the granting of seven certificates for single Dahlias in one day by the Floral Committee.” Will you allow me to remind him and your readers that on this occasion the two largest growers exhibited, and that a great part of the tables on both sides of the Council room were covered with endless new varieties of colour, making a display which will not soon be forgotten ? The Floral Committee selected seven out of the hundreds for first- class certificates — that is, they marked seven single Dahlias as being in their opinion far in advance in colour and form, and as being very desirable plants, but did not in any way con¬ sider the comparative merits of single and double Dahlias. I think, judging from the opinions expressed by people about here, considered of taste, on single Dahlias grown in a neigh¬ bour’s garden, the craze is likely to be an enduring one. There is no doubt that there are situations in some gardens suitable for single Dahlias where the most beautiful of the doubles would be out of place, unless, perhaps, some of the beautiful little Pompons which Mr. Turner has brought to such perfec¬ tion. It seems to me best to enjoy one’s own hobbies, and let others enjoy theirs. The bountiful mother Horticulture has January 25, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 67 pleasures and work enough for all her votaries, with all their varieties of taste. Some take the greatest delight in Carna¬ tions arranged by means of a pair of pincers ; others in making individual Gooseberries of an enormous size ; others in beau tiful varieties of Ferns ; while others care only for species. Bog plants, water plants, rock plants, Orchids have all their admirers, and I think it is best for the advancement of horti¬ culture that this should be so. I should have written this note sooner after the publication of your Journal, but had been away on a short garden run with my son. It began with Sir Trevor Lawrence’s Orchids, which were a great treat, and re¬ minded by their perfect cultivation of old days with Mr. Rucker, only with a great increase of numbers of species and varieties. We then went to a relative at Reigate, who gave us the best large home-grown Oranges which I have ever tasted from a tree in one of his houses, and drove us over to Pendell Court Gardens, where Mr. Green showed all his plant wonders. The cut blooms which he brings up from time to time to the Floral Committee give but a faint idea of their beauty when seen on the plants. The out-of-door department, where I should have been most at home, was at rest, but showed what beauty there must be in summer. — George F. Wilson. FRUIT-GROWING ON CHALK SOILS The criticism of your correspondent “ J. H. H.” on page 29 on the above subject, demands a passing notice from me ; brief it shall be, but to the point. In the first place 1 must candidly say that on reading his remarks over a second time 1 was somewhat doubtful as to whether I ought to come to the conclusion that he was a practical man or not. Assuming, however, that he is, I am surprised that he is not better acquainted with the writings of any of the old authors than he appears to be, and that he is not is plainly visible from the fact of his statement “ Fifty or a hundred years ago, before the advantages of root-lifting and pruning were understood,” &c. If he did not know it before, let me inform him now for the first time that the practices referred to have been known for centuries. Seeing that “ J. H. H.” admits that he has had no experience on chalk soil, it is quite evident that he is not qualified to give an opinion of much value on the subject, and it seems rather strange why he should put himself forth as a teacher on such a topic, as what he states can have little weight with those who are located on chalk soils, and in whose interest my note (page 525 last volume) was written. The number of random phrases your correspondent makes use of* precludes me from alluding to all of them in detail ; at the same time I cannot refrain from referring to one or two. Firstly, as to “ imported loam,” permit me to say that if he will read my note (page 525) over a second time he will find no allusion made therein to such a commodity. What was mentioned was “ the best that could be obtained in the locality,” and not brought “ ten miles by canal route.” “ J. H. H.” also asks, “Is the garden to be deepened by render¬ ing barren a portion of the park or farm l ” Decidedly not, is my reply ; neither is there any necessity for such a thing, and this your correspondent may prove to his own satisfaction if, when he obtains turf from pasture land, he will add the same bulk of old soil from the garden and sow it with a mixture of grass seed suit¬ able to the locality in April. By so doing he will hardly be able in twelve months’ time to tell where the turf was taken from. My reply to “J. H. H.’s” note might be considerably enlarged, but as I am no advocate for superfluous writing I will not trespass on your valuable space by any fur-ther comment. — Et (Uetera. CHRYSANTHEMUMS AT CHRISTMAS. A few words may be interesting to some of the numerous readers of the Journal as to the best way to attain flowers as late as Christmas. Much depends upon the treatment the plants receive through the growing season. I have had some good flowers of a few varieties until the 4th of this month. The treatment I give them is about the same as the other earlier-flowering varieties until the last stopping, which is not done until the end of July. The plants are kept outside as long as possible, covering them at night with tiffany or anything light. I afterwards place them in a house having a north-west aspect, used also for retarding Azaleas and other plants. I do not grow a large number of varieties, only a few of which I find keep best. I cannot speak too highly of Snowdrop, a most valuable Pompon sent out by Mr. Cannell last spring. It is very prolific, not large, but pure white ; in fact the later it flowers the more pure they are. It requires no disbudding. Fleur de Marie is another valuable pure white variety of the Anemone type, flowering remarkably late, though the guard florets are apt to damp. Malvaiflora is a very late Japanese form, also pure white ; but to have it good it must not be stopped at all. I have mentioned these three, as white flowers are always in demand, more especially at Christmas and Easter. I cannot too strongly recommend Lady Slade as a lilac incurved variety which comes very handsome late. This I think the best of all the coloured kinds, especially for specimen glasses or table decoration. Isabella Bott is another grand variety. I must not omit one other Pompon, a very useful variety of the Anemone section ; it is useful for bouquets or floral decoration, as it lasts a long time after being cut — Souvenir de Jersey, a very bright orange Pompon, with fringed edges and lasts remarkably well, but must be disbudded or it will not be satisfactory. The following are a few others which I have found useful of the incurved sorts : — Angelina, Blonde Beauty, Guernsey Nugget, Hero of Stoke Newington, Duchess of Teck (a sport from Hero of Stoke Newington); Themis, Nonpareil, Eve, Yellow Perfection. Julia Lagravi&re is a very useful reflexed variety, one of the darkest in colour, must not be disbudded. Progne is also very useful and keeps well, requiring disbudding. Several of the Pompon varieties I find keep well, such as Brilliant, Bob, Calliope, Madame Marthe, and the Golden variety of the latter which should be in every collection. Rosinante is very free, silvery-rose tipped with gold ; this is one of the very best to grow in small pots for market or furnishing. Japanese do not keep so well as the incurved kinds. I find La Nymph one of the very best ; with Fair Maid of Guernsey, White, Meg Merrilees, Striatum, Yellow Dragon, Gloire d'Or, Laciniatum (comes very pretty when not disbudded), and Grandiflurum. I may here add I have seen some quantities of Elaine, and very good flowers too, produced on the stems of plants where the flower was cut early in November. Guernsey Nugget will throw very useful flowers this way ; I have had these as late as the end of January. Perhaps these few remarks may induce some of your readers to state their experience with late-flowTering Chrysanthemums. — A Grower. A TRIAL OF POTATOES. I SEND you the results of last season’s trial of the following kinds of Potatoes. Possibly you may think them of interest to your readers. 7 lbs. of each variety were planted, and the pro¬ duce is as follows : — Ashleaf, 41 lbs. ; Suttons’ First and Best, 30 lb;. ; Beauty of Hebron, 84 lbs. ; Reading Hero, 126 lbs. ; Reading Russet, 68 lbs. ; Reading Abbey, 39 lbs. ; Suttons’ Fifty¬ fold, 65 lbs. ; Suttons’ Red-skin Flourball, 120 lbs. ; Magnum Bonum, 102 lb-:. ; Rector of Woodstock, 42 lbs.; Schoolmaster, 46 lbs. It will be seen that Reading Hero is the heaviest cropper, but the two seasons I have grown it it unfortunately decayed after being stored ; so I reluctantly discard it, as I do the light croppers. For the future I propose growing only Magnum Bonum, Red-skin Flourball, and Beauty of Hebron. I may add the eleven rows were grown side by side, 27 inches apart ; each con¬ sisted of eighty roots, 14 inches apart, and on a light soil without manure. If the three sorts I have selected can be improved upon I shall be exceedingly glad of any hints to that effect. — J. Robinson, Suffolk. PLANTS FOR A DARK CONSERVATORY. A DIFFICULTY. Will any of your readers kindly tell me what climbers or other plants are best suited for covering the back wall and roof of a dark conservatory ? The house is 28 feet long, 11 feet 6 inches high, and 9 feet 6 inches wide, the only light it gets being from six windows in front, which are 3 feet wide each, 5 feet 6 inches above the floor, and glazed with small panes of glass about l^inch wide and 5 inches long. The house can be heated in cold weather. May I further ask what plants are best suited for the decoration of this house ? We have no stage nor any means of planting out, therefore the plants are arranged on the tiled floor, and I find they damp off very much, while some, such as Ferns and Euca¬ lyptuses, shrivel as though they were scorched. Would it be ad¬ visable to have a low stage, say about 18 inches or 2 feet high ? Any information that can be kindly given will be gratefully received. — A. T. Lambeth Palace Gardens. — Iu a recent article upon these gardens in a daily contemporary the following particulars were given — Authorities appear to differ as to the precise extent of the ‘ park and gardens’ attached to Lambeth Palace. Originally it seems to X 68 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 25, 1883. have been 13 acre?, but it far exceeded this at one time. The kitchen garden used to cover 3 or 4 acres, and may do so now, and used to be famous for the abundance and excellence of its fruit and vegetables. Cardinal Pole is believed to have planted certain Fig trees, which formerly grew against that part of the building, with the foundation of which he is accredited. Mr. Allen says that they ‘ are of the white Marseilles sort, and still bear delicious fruit.’ When Allen wrote, however, Lambeth was hardly the Lambeth of to-day. The smoke demon had hardly overspread the place as he has now, and if Cardinal Pole’s Fig trees were still in their prime they would, we fear, hardly be very famous as fruit-bearers. There were two of them, and Mr. Timbs, in his ‘ Curiosities of London,’ says that they were more than 50 feet in height and 40 in breadth, and one of them was 28 inches in circumference, and the other 21 inches. They had to be removed during the rebuilding of a part of the Palace, but they are, we believe, represented still by young trees propa¬ gated from them, and still growing between the buttresses of the library. There used to be in a small private garden attached to the Palace a third Fig tree, traditionally asserted to have been planted by Cardinal Pole like the other two. Whether that, too, has disappeared we are unable to say. Another feature of the grounds here, which used at one time to attract considerable attention, was a curiously constructed summer house, said to have been built or designed by Dr. John Ponet, chaplain to one of the Archbishops, and who seems to have been something of a genius this way. It was a wooden fabric standing a short distance from the Palace, and was repeatedly patched and repaired by Archbishop Parker. At length, however, it fell into such decay that it had to be cleared off. The garden has suffered a good deal in many ways. In 1779 a terrific storm threw down three chimneys from the Palace and tore off a great part of the roof, while in the grounds no less than seventeen large timber trees were uprooted. Then the embanking of the Thames took off a slice, which unfortunately included the famous ‘ Bishop’s Walk,’ with its fine row of Elm trees, beneath which crusaders and monks, priests and princes, had strolled and chatted century after century. After all curtailments, however, it was stated the other day at the Metro¬ politan Board of Works that the gardens and the meadow at the back of the Palace still measured about 21 acres in extent.” MAKING AND RENOVATING LAWNS. ( Continued from page 48.) The lawn set apart solely for ornament should be on that side or front of the mansion or building it adjoins which is least liable to have its privacy interrupted. It should also be in the position with the best aspect for viewing distant objects, whether park, woodland scenery, or cultivated ground. A hedge or fence of any kind as a boundary is most objectionable, but as some means of separation is absolutely necessary a flat-bar iron fence is the best, as a sunk fence is now seldom formed. It should not be inter¬ sected by walks, but if one be absolutely necessary it should be taken directly across it and parallel with the line of the building, at a distance from the latter equal to the height from the base to the eaves, which will admit of the building being viewed from the walk at a favourable angle — i.c., 45°. It is desirable in most cases to have the lawn with a gentle slope from the building, which allows of the latter being seen to the best advantage, and the objects or prospect from it are observed most effectively. The Surroundings or a Lawn.— If the lawn terminate in park scenery, broad expanses of green sward, flat or undulating, with trees, mostly deciduous, having umbrageous heads, as Oak, Elm, Limes, Beech, and Chestnut, and such smaller trees as Thorn, Beam, Mountain Ash, and Wild Cherry, with Holly and Yew as evergreens, Alders, Willows, and Poplars being employed in low wet positions or for skirting streams ; with Oak on the deepest and best soil, knolls supporting Crabs, Thoms, &c., associ¬ ated with Holly and Yew, the higher eminences capped with Tines, and the declivities with Spruce ; but whilst the park trees are chiefly of an indigenous character, nearer home exotic trees may be employed with advantage, yet not to the extent of form¬ ing a distinct feature. I do not mean that because the park trees are principally Oak, See., that those ought to be continued right up to the building to the exclusion of other trees ; nevertheless, an Oak would be the fittest and most effective object that could be employed for the lawn at one or both flanks of the building, and for the front too if the building recede in any part of its frontage. The stately forms of deciduous trees harmonise better with a building at all seasons than monotonous tapering Conifers, the majestic Cedar of Lebanon alone excepted. With park scenery comprised of the commonest trees, a Holly or Yew is more in character in the foreground than any exotic, simply because they harmonise with the adjoining scenery. It is not intended that because there be Oak it must not be associated with the other varieties and species of the genus ; that having Beech the Purple and Fern-leaved must be excluded, and so on with Elms and Maples, for to do so would be to lose much beauty inseparable from variety and contrast both of form and colour. In case the ground slope from the building and is terminated by a hollow, advantage should be taken of this where there is a proper supply of water to convert it into a pond, widened stream, or lake, as the extent of the hollow and supply of water will admit. If there be a constant supply of water so as to admit of the formation of a waterfall or cascade the lower end may be formed of rock ; and being formed of boulders bedded in and coated with cement so as to resemble natural rock, it will have an effective appearance when seen obliquely, as it should be, from the principal point of view, the sides of the fall or cascade being planted with dwarf evergreens, such as Rhododendron ponticum associated with Ferns at the foot of the rock. If the view beyond the water extend in park or other scenery, trees or shrubs should be introduced sparingly if at all, and when employed should be in keeping with that of the scenery beyond ; but if it be near cultivated ground the planting at the back must be more liberal, and, whilst not entirely closing the view in that direction, will considerably modify the formal aspect. If on the other hand, it is inadvisable to continue the view beyond the water, then with as large a grass margin as the ground admits of, a background of such shrubs and trees as are adapted for low ground if flat ; or if it rise more or less abruptly, commence with such plants as Rhododendrons disposed in groups irregularly, associated with Conifers (Abies, including Piceas) that thrive in moist soil ; and as a higher elevation is reached Pinuses should be disposed in masses of one kind with Larches and Scotch Fir. In case of the building being situated on the side or at the foot of a hill, the ground sloping from it more or less regularly, or it may be abruptly, to a ravine or wooded valley with a stream of water at the bottom, the treatment will be of a more difficult description than in any of the foregoing, as indeed it will excel in interest and beauty from the greater variety and extent of view. When the ground slopes gradually from the principal point of view to the stream it will be well to continue the lawn if it can be seen down to the water and continue it on the other side, so as to show the water to the best advantage and for the display of trees on the margins. If at the entrance of the stream from the wooded sides of the ravine to the grassy plain it can be made to form a waterfall, it ought to be done. If the ground is very abrupt, so as to prevent any great extent of visible lawn being formed from the principal point of view, then it will suffice to form so much as can be readily seen, and form at this point that which is to be the foreground to the tops of the trees below and beyond. These of necessity must be low, but of different heights, so as to give the whole a tufted appear¬ ance, harmonising with that of the trees below ; for however wooded a valley may be, the trees forming it will have attained to different heights. If the view beyond the wooded valley be that of cultivated land distinguished by hedgerows with farm¬ steads, then it will first be essential to so plant the sides as to break the monotony of the lines of fence, and this more particu¬ larly next the wood, disposing them so as to have a harmonising effect. With a farmstead so situated as to form an object of interest and beauty it should be made to stand out prominently by planting trees at the back and sides, and be seen through a vista by allowing the trees on the margin of the wood to be of a low or shrubby character, or, better still, let the homestead be seen across green pastures. — G. Abbey. (To be continued.) MARECHAL NIEL ROSES. I find this fine Rose succeeds very well on the Briar stock ; and if I want to raise any, all I have to do is to plant Briars against a south wall, and have them budded there. In fine seasons like we had some years ago they did pretty well budded in the open garden, but have not done so lately. The severe winters of a few years back were very trying. I have had large trees with as many as two hundred fine blooms all out at one time against the house ; but they were much injured by the severe frost, and either died or had to be cut back, but I have young ones coming on to supply their places. In the absence of any very severe frost they have a tendency to get bare at the lower part of the tree, and should be cut back and started again, or Briars planted to be budded and take the place after a while of the old. It is not too late to move Briars now for that purpose. — Amateur, Cirencester. Culture op Hydrangeas. — Mr. A. Young has given some very good hints on the culture of this useful plant, but I think he has omitted one important point in its cultivation — namely, disbudding January 25, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 69 u A trio of very distinct but extremely useful small-flowered Bpecies are 0. cucullatum, 0. ornithorhynchum, and 0. cheirc- phorum. Of these much the largest flowers are borne by the first- named, the sepals and petals being purplish, the lip rosy purple with deeper spots, some recent varieties being considerably richer in colour and with larger flowers than the older forms, while one has a distinct yellowish tinge. O. ornithorhynchum has very small fragrant rose or purplish flowers, but they are borne in such dense panicles that they amply compensate for this defect. A white-flownred variety is also in cultivation, and forms a beautiful companion for the ordinary type. O. cheirophorum is very similar to the last named in the size and form of the flowers and in the form of the panicle, but the colour is clear yellow, and therefore quite distinct from the preceding. It is, however, not so well known as those, and is well worth more attention, as the flowers are very fragrant and bright in colour. It is a native of New Grenada, where it was found by Warscc-wicz at an elevation of 8000 feet on the volcano of Cbiriqui, where it was “ flowering a warm house. The lip constitutes the great attraction of the flower, that being of great size, frequently inches in diameter, rich yellow in hue, and slightly lobed at the upper part. The flowers are borne in large-branched spikes or panicles, and a plant in good condition is one of the most striking Orchids during winter. It is a variety of 0. varicosum, but much superior to the ordinary type, and was introduced from Brazil about twelve years ago. Two other somewhat similar yellow-flowered Orchids are 0. ampliatum majus and 0. bifolium majus, but these bloom in spring and early summer. Very handsome specimens of the former are occasionally seen at exhibitions, one of the finest being that shown by Mr. Childs of Gai brand Hall Gardens, Ewell. Fig. 1G. — OXCIDIUM ROGERSII. or thinning the flower truss. I differ slightly from him in their management, as I transfer them from thumb pots into large GO’s, and winter them in them, and when they are started and the truss is formed I place them into 48’s, and when the truss is sufficiently expanded thin it to at least two-thirds. — J. Smith. 0NCID1UMS. ( Continued from page 24.) 0. Rogersi. — This deserves a place amongst the be-t of the whole genus, and it is now a great favourite with all Orchid- growers, as it is very showy and very free when grown in pots in 70 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 25, 1883. in December, with the thennometer only a few degrees above freezing point.” The species is mi ch better known upon the continent than in England, but it has n >w been in cultivation here about ten years, the first plants having flowered at Kew in 1872. All three are cool -house Orchids, and succeed satisfactorily with Odontoglossums and similar plants. Dozens of other beautiful species could be named, but sufficient have been mentioned to show the principal characters and quali¬ ties of the genus, and the following list contains the best, arranged under the heads Cool and Warm-house Species. Cool-house Oncids. — Barkeri, bifolium majus, cheirophorum, concolor, cucullatum, dasystyle, excavatum, incurvum, leuco- chilum, macranthum, ornithorhynchum, varicosum, Rogersi, stel- ligerum, and tigrinum. Warm-house Oncids. — Ampliatum majus, Cavendishianum, crispum grandifiorum, flexuosum, Forbesii, haematochilum, Kra- meri, Lanceanum, leopardinum, Marshallianum, Papilio, sarcodes, and zebrinum.- — L. Castle. EASTER BEURRE AND BEURRE RANCE PEARS. I CAN quite confirm what A. Young and “ A Notts Gardener ” say with regard to Easter Beurre and Beurrd Ranee. They are of very little use except as stewing Pears in the north. Easter Beurre against a south and a west wall used to do very well in my father’s garden in Notts in a good sandy loam, and knowing it well there I planted it here. But, like many of the late ripeners, it is an early bloomer, and seldom sets its fruit well. I found, too, that the older the tree became the more the fruit cracked and cankered, and I have cut it down to make more room for a Marie Louise which was growing alongside. Beurrd Ranee is also condemned with me, as both a shy bearer and seldom ripening except in more than usually favourable seasons. — C. P. P., North Yorkshire. I WAS somewhat surprised to see Beurre Ranee so unfavourably spoken of in our Journal last week on page 24, as I had an im¬ pression that it was a much more reliable variety. We have two trees here growing in an old orchard which were planted in the year 1835. On Friday last, after receiving the Journal, I measured the tallest tree, and its height was about 41 feet. This tree scarcely ever fails to give us a crop, and last season carried nearly three bushels of fruit, all of which (with the exception of a few split ones) were fit for table. There is an Elm plantation on the north and east sides of the trees which shelters them from cold winds, otherwise they stand in an open position. Easter Beurre we do not grow, so I am unable to give an opinion respecting it. — F. H., Oxon. THE INSECT ENEMIES OF OUR GARDEN CROPS.— No. 1. The cultivator of fruit and vegetables, whether it be on a large or a limited scale, is sure to make the acquaintance of a variety of noxious insects ; noxious — that is, as seemingly inter¬ fering with his success. But in the case of some of the insects that are feeders on plants under our management, it may be con¬ cluded they are merely removing what had previously entered on the first stage of decay, though other insects do certainly devour roots, leaves, and fruit that are perfectly healthy. Several writers have propounded a theory, satisfactory to them, that the insect enemies of the gardener are sent to make him diligent and careful, showing him that he must take precautions not only against unfavourable weather and the larger creatures who may damage his crops, but against others whose very insignificance is apt to lead him to neglect them. It would appear that in most of the kitchen gardens of the olden time insects were allowed, to a great extent, to multiply unchecked, save only in so far as they were destroyed by their parasitic foes, or by those insect-eating birds formerly more numerous than at present. Hence the modern gardener has a vast advantge over his predecessor ; having a knowledge, by no means despicable, of the habits of garden insects, he has also an abundant, perhaps too abundant, supply of remedies to select from. To read the testimonials put forth concerning some of these, almost convinces us that garden insects, by their judicious application, might be entirely eradicated from our beds and frames. But then where would be the occupation of the makers of these compounds ? In the kitchen-garden department, however, as in others, it is a mistake to suppose that all insects seen about are really injurious. Some of those we notice cn the wing are simply passengers on their way across to their special resorts. Some, again, have come to our ground in order to draw the nectar from flowers, or they clear away vegetable refuse. Then there are extensive families, whose instinct leads them to prey upon other insects, and they frequently attack some of our worst enemies just at a stage in their growth when a material check is given to their increase. How import¬ ant is it, therefore, for a gardener to know at least as much of entomology to enable him to distinguish the common harmless species from the harmful ! It is to be noted, though, as a curious fact, that there are instances of very close resemblances between different groups, by which, doubtless, some predatory insects are favoured ; and also we have several rather perplexing cases where an insect is at one age useful and at a later age injurious. The order Lepidoptera, which embraces the butterflies and moths, stands out conspicuously amongst the orders of insects, because to it belong the caterpillars of very varied size, which in many seasons are unpleasingly numerous in the kitchen garden. Their habits were observed even by our unscientific ancestors, who named these creatures, from the effects of their ravages, the “peeling” or “pilling” of plants by the stripping off of their leaves. Hairy or spiny caterpillars, such as that of the tiger moth or the tortoiseshell butterfly, seem to have had the name of “ pal- merworm ” reserved to them, because they are garbed like the palmers of old. All these insects do not feed openly upon the leaves or flowers, as is the habit of mauy ; there are others that carry on their attacks insidiously by burrowing near the roots or working their way into the stems of plants. In their winged state these insects are harmless, except as propagators of their species. Amongst some of the orders of insects we find instances where nearly allied species are hostile to each other, but it is not so with the Lepidoptera of our gardens. There are, however, a few cannibal caterpillars ; these occur upon trees or shrubs, chiefly upon those growing in woods and hedges. We pass on to the Coleoptera as the order next in importance, and this division, embracing the beetles of very varied size, from giant stag beetle and cockchafer down to insects not larger than the head of a pin, furnishes a contingent to our garden foes, in which numbers make up for the small bulk of the majority of the species. Here we have instances of mischief done by the fully developed beetles, and also by the grubs and larvae, and occa¬ sionally a species is noticed to be both hurtful and helpful in two of its stages, though the mischievous qualities are apt to out¬ weigh the beneficial ones. To mention the Turnip beetle or flea, the “ wireworm,” the Pea weevil, and the black or “ grooved weevil,” is sufficient proof that the gardener has need to take active precautions against insects of this order, which very often cause him serious losses and disappointments. From their cautious habits they succeed in destroying or greatly damaging some crops before they are observed, and in several species the insects seize the moment for attack when the plant has little vitality, or is exposed to trying weather. The little order or group called Euplexoptera contains an insect greatly disliked by all gardeners, and one that is not easy to ex¬ tirpate — viz., the common earwig. Although this insect is very partial to fruit, and also fond of lurking in flowers, especially in those with numerous petals, it condescends to visit some of our garden vegetables, and enjoys the warmth of frames. I am not certain if it is eaten by birds, but it appears to be avoided by most insects, inoffensive as it is. Even a spider may be noticed to eject an earwig from her web with an unmistakeable movement of dis¬ gust. We are happily exempt in this country from the terrible locust, which is so notable an insect in the order Orthoptera. Its allies, the crickets and grasshoppers, can scarcely be said to be harmful to any garden plants if occasional insinuations have been made against the field cricket and the great green grasshopper. The mole-cricket, however, a species somewhat distinct, has been complained of as a burrower at the roots of vegetables ; and the common cockroach, an eastern unwelcome guest, does make ex¬ cursions during the summer season from the kitchen domain into the garden, desirous of a change of diet, but in nowise particular what it gnaws. Very few insects of the Hymenopterous order are guilty of injuring our vegetables, perhaps less than half a dozen species. One of these is the “ nigger,” or black canker fly, a foe to the Turnip. Recent inquiries, indeed, concerning an effective means of destroying ants would indicate that some modern gar¬ deners are unkindly disposed towards these busy insects. Ento¬ mologists have mostly been inclined to regard the ant tribes as useful in gardens on the whole, though they may be partial to over-ripe fruit. On the other hand, amongst the four-winged flies in this order are a great many species that, as parasites upon caterpillars and grubs, help to diminish the numbers of some of our worst enemies. Various predatory species, large and small, also seize other insects and carry them off to suck their juices ; the much-abused wasp, for instance, kills each season swarms of flies and grubs. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 25, 1883. ] 71 The “bugs,” to use an uninviting but appropriate epithet for the insects placed in the order Homoptera, would, if left un¬ molested, convert many a promising garden into a scene of deso¬ lation. “ Black fly,” “green fly,” flies of divers colours belonging to the aphis tribe, spare few of our vegetables, appearing at inter¬ vals during the season ; the unpleasant “ cuckoo spit” (Aphiophora spumaria) has its special time of attack in the early summer. To this order belong the scale insects, but they rather frequent the houses and orchards. And then we come to the Diptera, or two¬ winged flies, an order bringing us many minute but ever-active enemies to the Cabbage, Lettuce, Carrot, Celery, Onion, Turnip, and other plants in much demand. Yet here we have also our friends in the form of parasite destroyers of insects. Lastly, in a rather anomalous group we have such wingless species as the millipedes, the mites, and those curious skippers, the Collimbola. — Entomologist. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. The last few years I have been very much disappointed with Brussels Sprouts. I tried all the varieties in the catalogues, but they all came very irregular, some producing good buttons, but as a rule the greater part were worthless. I determined to select plants and save seed, but the severe winters stopped me. After seeing the Aigburth at the International Show at Manchester I decided to give it a trial, which I did, and a finer piece of Brussels Sprouts I never saw. They are about 2 feet high, and every plant is true. Some of the buttons are rather too large for the table, but not for the servants’ hall, and there are plenty that are small enough. I am so well satisfied with it that I thought I should grow nothing else, but the favourable accounts of Reading Exhibition has induced me to give it a trial. The seed of the Aigburth was sown the first week in March in a cold frame. By the time the plants had been twice transplanted a piece of ground that had been trenched the previous winter was planted in spring with Early Hammersmith Potato. These were now cleared, and the Brussels Sprouts planted with large balls of earth. I might add they were previously transplanted on a piece of ground adjoining, as they could not so easily be carried to a distant part of the garden. — J. L. LOMBARDY POPLARS AND FROST. The effects of the severe winter of 1880 have been particularly noticeable in this village of Astwood Bank, locally known as “ The Bank ” from its elevated position or ridge, which a mile nearer Evesham is named Ridgeway, on the borders of Worcester¬ shire and Warwickshire, nearly midway between Birmingham and Evesham, north and south, and nearly equal distance from Worcester north-east. Before the severe winter referred to it has always been a very easy matter to point out the village in the landscape from a distance of many miles by the many slender Lombardy Poplars then growing, now I do not think there is one left “to tell the tale.” Standing on a prominent spot in Sep¬ tember last, when other trees were in full foliage, I counted over fifty leafless Poplars which have now succumbed to the woodman’s axe. It is also curious to notice that the same species of Poplar only a short distance away, situate in a valley, the tops of which would probably be on a level with the roots of those killed, are still living. Now, as a rule, frost is more severe in low-lying places, and the inference is that it must have been the penetrating wind which accompanied the frost at the time which proved so fatal. It would be interesting to hear any remarks from other quarters on the subject. — J. Hiam. RAISING VINES IN TURF. What does “Vitis” mean by growing young Vines in turf? Does he mean he strikes the eyes in pieces of turf and places that on bottom heat, or how ? How thick should young canes be in autumn struck from eyes in the previous February ? — H. Stone. [We promised in our correspondence last week to reply to this question more fully than we could do in the column in question. As the subject is one of importance, and this method of propa¬ gation a most excellent one, we reproduce the article of its ori¬ ginator, Mr. William Thomson of Clovenfords. Our correspon¬ dent “ Vitis ” appears amongst others to have followed Mr. Thomson’s practice and has found it worthy of recommendation. So have we. “ My objections to the usual system I had better state to begin with. The first is the rich soil used for growing the Vines. This gives rise to strong soft roots few in number, and which generally perish during the winter. The second is the coiling of the roots, first round the small pot, in which the eye is started, before it is shifted into a larger pot ; then the same process continued in the larger pot ; and lastly, when the Vine has to be turned out of the pot for planting, the extreme difficulty of disentangling the roots, in which process all the spongioles and small roots are destroyed, leaving a few long bare roots which have to be spread out in the border, reaching a long way across it, and from the points of which the newly-formed roots start, leaving a great part of the carefully prepared border behind them. “To avoid j’such evils as I consider these are, I proceeded as follows : — On the pavement of what was intended for and is now a Pine stove, under which are hot-water pipes for giving bottom heat, I placed a complete covering of tough fibry turf taken off a sheep-walk ; on this I placed 4 inches of fine fibry maiden loam. In this, at a distance of 6 inches or so from each other, holes an inch deep were made, and filled with white sand, and in the sand the Vine eyes were placed, and just covered with it. The bottom heat did not exceed 60°. “ The Vine eyes started in the usual way, and out of sixteen hun¬ dred not six failed to make rapid progress. When they were about 9 inches high, with four or five fully developed leaves, and their first set of strong quill-like roots beginning to interlace each other, I had each plant cut round with a knife, so that it rested on its own isolated bit of turf, and had the points of its roots cut off. They flagged a little for a few days, but soon began to grow again, and I had each plant raised on a square trowel and transplanted to a similar bed of turf and fibrous loam, but this time they were placed from 9 to 12 inches apart, according to their strength, filling in all round with loam in which there was no manure of any kind. When raised on the trowel, the edges of the square of soil they were growing in was a mass of fine white needle-like roots springing from the large roots that were cut across. The Tines seemed to suffer no check from their removal, but grew rapidly. “ When the Vines were about 3 feet high, and just a week before I meant to plant them in the borders, I had them cut round again, but this time the blocks of loam in which they were growing were from 9 inches to a foot square, and 6 inches deep, and one mass of fine active roots more like those of a Box or Privet bush than of a Vine ; they were moved entire to where they were planted with the greatest facility, not a root being injured. “ The progress the Vines made after being planted in the borders was, in my experience, altogether unparal¬ leled. The eyes were put in the soil on the 7th of February last, and I send you samples of the wood cut exactly to a day eleven months from the time the eyes were put in the soil. They were chiefly Muscats, Lady Downe’s (black and white), Gros Colman, Alicante, and — strongest of all— the Golden Champion. Vou will note how little pith there is in the wood. “ About seven hundred of such Vines as I did not require for plant¬ ing I had potted for either fruiting in pots or planting, and they have been equally successful ; therefore I can recommend the system for either purpose. An examination of the border shows that the roots are \ 'lift 'in-, l m m 72 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January ss, 1 883. retaining the habit thus forced upon them, and are, so to speak, taking their work before them. — W. Thomson, Dalkeith Park." No better-ripened, shorter-jointed, smaller-pithed, finer young wood was ever produced on a Vine ; and when it is remembered that no more than eleven months before the eyes producing that wood were planted, we believe that such success was then without a parallel, though it may have been equalled since. The drawing of a section from the Golden Champion cutting is exactly of the size sent to us.] We give the three following records of kainfall in widely separated districts as illustrating the great difference in the annual totals registered. - Me. R. Inglis, The Gardens, Borde Hill, Sussex, writes — “ The total bain fall in Mid-Sussex for the past year was 33 42 inches. It may on the whole be termed rather a dripping season, there having been rain on 181 days, nearly one-half of the number. The heaviest fall for one month was October — 686 inches — and the driest month was May, during which 1-34 inch fell. The greatest depth in twenty-four hours occurred on October 21st, when T24 inch was registered. The following is the fall in each month : — January, T62 ; February, 6-69 ; March, 1-34 ; April, 3 09 ; May, T34 ; June, 2-41 ; July, 3 86 ; August, 187 ; September, 2-44 ; October, 6 86 ; November, 4T8 ; Decem¬ ber, 2*72 — Total, 33-42 inches.” - Mr. Geo. Machray registered the following rainfall in 1882 at Kelly Gardens, Wemyss Bay, near Greenock : — January, 6 50 ; February, 5-50 ; March, 3 50 ; April, 3-70 ; May, 2-70 ; June, 5- 10 ; July, 4-20 ; August, 4-20 ; September, 4-20 ; October, 4 00 ; November, 7 90 ; December, 6'80 — Total, 58-30 inches. - Mr. G. Summers, The Gardens, Sandbeck Park, sends the following record of the rainfall — “ In 1882, 34'02 inches fell on 214 days ; 1881, 27'30 inches on 171 days ; 1880, 34-87 inches on 170 days ; 1879, 28-61 inches on 209 days ; 1878, 26 88 inches on 179 days ; 1877, 31-50 inches on 163 days. From the above figures it will be seen that the rainfall of the past year was 6- 72 inches more than 1881, a difference of 678 tons, or 151,574 gallons per acre. March was the driest month, 1-37 inch falling on 12 days ; and October the wettest, 5 34 inches falling on 24 days.” - “F. H., Oxon," writes as follows respecting suitable PLANTS FOR growing under A Rookery : — “ There is a very large rookery here, and I find nothing succeeds better under the trees where the rooks inhabit than the common English Ivy. We have a quantity of it here, with Box trees planted at intervals amongst it, which answers very well. But I would advise your correspondent, “ J. D.,” not to let nettles find root room with the Ivy, or they will very soon overgrow and kill it.” - Messrs. Barr & Son, King Street, Covent Garden, send us specimens of Coebularia alba, a charming little Hoop Petti¬ coat Narciss with neat white flowers. They state that, “ In the Bummer of 1881 we had a quantity of the pseudo-bulbs from Algiers, and planted them in bottomless pans, where they have remained since, with the exception of moving the pans last summer with the view of having them under better control, and have given them a slight protection when necessary of glass, and from this time we shall be cutting them twice a week.” - We are sorry to have to record the death of Mr. Robert Wrench of Messrs. Jacob Wrench & Son, seedsmen, of London Bridge, which occurred at Gi'amont Surbiton on the 15th inst at the age of seventy. Mr. Wrench was the youngest son of Mr. Jacob Wrench, who founded the house, and originally practised as a solicitor, but on the death of his nephew, the son of his elder brother, Mr. Edward Wrench, he joined the firm. He was for upwards of forty years treasurer to the Gardeners' Royal Bene¬ volent Institution, in the prosperity of which he always manifested the greatest interest. He was for some years a member of the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society, and was long on the Fruit Committee of that Society. He was for many years a member of the Board of Management of Dulwich College, and at the time of his death Master of the Drapers’ Company. - The following prizes are offered by Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, for competition by amateurs and gentlemen’s gardeners at the meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society during the present year: — March 29th, £3, £2, and £1 for nine seedling Cinerarias ; May 22nd and 23rd, similar amounts for the same number of Calceolarias, also £2 2s., £1 Is., and 10s. 6d. for the best brace of Cucumbers, any variety. June 26tb, prizes of similar value to the above named for nine Tuberous Begonias, twelve Gloxinias, four dishes of Peas, and six varieties of Lettuce. July 3rd, four prizes ranging from £4 to £1 for a collection of ten distinct kinds of vegetables, no restriction as to sorts ; also three prizes of £3, £2, and £1 for the best Melon ; and on July 24th three prizes for Cabbages and six for Potatoes, varying from £4 to £1. No variety for which a special prize is offered in the Society’s schedule may compete for these prizes. The same firm also provides prizes to the aggregate amount of £40, in twenty- one classes, at the International Potato Show to be held in September. - Those who take an interest in the home cultivation of Oranges will find the Orange house at the Sawbridgeworth Nurseries well worth a visit at this season. The trees are laden with a profusion of handsome brilliantly coloured fruit, and ex¬ hibit a luxuriance of growth which is rarely seen even in the Orange plantations of southern Europe, and the foliage is large and glossy, having no trace of scale or of the black fungus, which are the pests of the Orange tree. It may be worth mentioning that Mr. Rivers sponges the leaves and bark with castor oil, which is washed off with soft soap and warm water, and this is an effectual cure to the pests we have just mentioned. - The members of the Sutton Amateur Rose Society dined together at the Cafe Royal in Regent Street on the evening of Tuesday last ; Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., President of the Society, in the chair. There was a large muster of the members and their friends, and if we may judge by the uniform geniality and enthusiastic tone that pervaded the gathering, there need be no doubt as to the usefulness and permanency of this young but prosperous Society. The proceedings of the evening were enlivened by the execution of some charming solo and part songs by the members under the direction of Mr. Home. - Concerning the importation of Potatoes into America, it is stated that during the year 1882 nearly 9,000,000 bushels of Potatoes paid duty at the various ports of that country, their invoiced value being 4,500,000 dols., and the amount of duty paid 1,118,476 dols. A large portion of these were landed at New York, though Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and New Orleans had their share. The Potatoes were sent from New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, the Bermudas, and some millions of bushels from Europe, mostly from Scotland and Ireland. - We learn from the Annual Report of the Royal Southampton Horticultural Society for the past year that the Summer Show produced a balance of £87 9s. 11 d. in favour of the Society, but the Autumn Show resulted in a loss of 4s. Id. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 25, 1883 ] 73 which, though unsatisfactory, did not materially affect the general good results. The exhibitions to be held during the present year are the following : — The National Bose Society’s Provincial Show, June 28th; Summer Show and Gala, August 4th and Gth ; and the Chrysanthemum and Fruit Show, November 13th and 14th. The Society has entered into a provisional agreement to rent 10 acres of land in Westwood Park on a lease of fourteen years, it being proposed to maintain it as a place of recreation as well as a site for the exhibitions. Four hundred pounds are, however, required for preliminary expenses, and it is intended to raise this by issuing tickets available for the whole term of the lease, and transferable on payment of a small fee. It is hoped that all necessary arrangements will be completed in time for the Eose Show to be held in the Society’s grounds. - In reference to the mildness of the season a corre¬ spondent writes : — “ Observing a paragraph in the Journal the week before last that Primroses had been selling at a penny a bunch in London, as something worth notice at this season, I may state that when out shooting in a wood in Worcestershire last autumn during October, November, and December Primroses were abundant. I also noticed Foxgloves during the same months> with Daisies and Buttercups in abundance in some fields. Prim¬ roses, no matter what the weather may be, usually make an unnatural growth in woods after a piece has been cleared of underwood for about two seasons, and also on hedgerow banks under the same condition of being cleared. I have had some on north banks where no sun reached all winter. It is a pity that people who could spare the time do not gather Primroses in the country and send to hospitals and other institutions, where they would no doubt be fully appreciated.” - A daily contemporary remarks that “ the great naturalist, the late Me. Darwin, seems to have had many admirers in Sweden. The subscription for the memorial to him has awakened so much interest in that country that the local committee there formed has received subscriptions from no fewer than 1400 per¬ sons, including ‘ all sorts of people,’ writes Professor Loven in a letter to the English Committee, ‘ from the bishop to the seam¬ stress ’ — the sums varying from £5 to 2d. The English Com¬ mittee, which has its headquarters at the Eoyal Society, London, has now received (inclusive of subscriptions from abroad), £4000. The number of subscribers in the United Kingdom is only about six hundred.” - We regret to have to announce the death of Mr. William Ward, gardener to the Lady Emily Foley of Stoke Edith Park, Herefordshire. Mr. Ward died quite suddenly at the com¬ paratively early age of fifty-seven, and was able to continue his work until the day of his death. He began his profession by four years’ residence in a nursery garden at Jersey, took his first place in the garden of the late Duke of Devonshire at Chiswick, and after staying several years there he became manager of the kitchen garden at Hampton Court Palace for Messrs. Jackson and Son. From thence he came to Stoke Edith some sixteen years ago. Mr. Ward was an excellent practical gardener in all branches of the work, and a very steady intelligent man. For the last few years of his life, in accordance with Lady Emily Foley’s directions, he assisted the Woolhope Naturalist Field Club in the preparation of that very beautiful work “ The Herefordshire Pomona,” not only by supplying such typical specimens of fruits as might be required from the extensive gardens at Stoke Edith, but also by giving the results of his observations and experience in growing the several varieties. It was a real pleasure to him to afford practical information, and he spared no trouble to help the Committee in every way he could, always giving his opinions with equal freedom and modesty. Mr. Ward was a good type of an Englishman, a man of high principle, steady and persevering in the performance of his duty, truthful, plain-spoken, and pos¬ sessed of sound common sense — a man, in short, to be relied upon, and who gained, as he well deserved, the esteem and re¬ spect of all his employers through life. - A correspondent writes : — “ Will the raisers of new plants never ‘ see the error of their ways ’ in giving such barbarously long names to their productions as at present pre¬ vails ? The latest example of this practice that has come under my notice is Primula sinensis flore-pleno crispata nana, which is certainly long enough to do justice to a plant that is remarkable only for a slight crispness of foliage, and flowers smaller than the ordinary type of double Primula. A lady having desired to have the English name, it was given to her in this form — ‘the dwarf crisped-leaved double-flowered Chinese Prim¬ rose,’ which was declared to be worse than the other, and the attempt to master the title was resigned in despair.” - It was stated at the last meeting of the Scientific Com¬ mittee, South Kensington, that the specimen of Magnolia Campbelli in the grounds of Wm. Crawford, Esq., Lake¬ lands, near Cork, is at length about to flower, there being over thirty flower buds on it at present. “ This,” says the Irish Farmer's Gazette , “ will be the first time of it promising flower in the British islands, and we trust the recent severe frost or other winter mishap may not interfere with the full development of its gorgeous flowers. We may venture to correct a mistake in the report of the scientific meeting in our London contemporaries, in which it is stated that the tree is growing in Mr. Crawford’s garden, from which it might be inferred that it was trained to or required the protection of a wall. Such, however, is not the case. It is growing a3 a standard in a low-lying portion of the ground at a considerable distance from the garden, and quite near the foreshore of that portion of the estuary of the Lee known as the Douglas channel. With reference to the foregoing, and the anxiety expressed with regard to the flowering of M. Campbelli, it may be stated that the evergreen Magnolias appear, at least about Dublin, to have suffered from the effects of the December frost to an extent that we never remember to have seen before. In fact, in some places many growing to walls seem completely browned.” - The report of the Epping Forest Committee of their proceedings under the Epping Forest Acts, from the date of their first appointment to the close of the year 1882, has been printed and circulated. The first Committee was appointed on the 3rd of October, and Mr. Bedford elected Chairman on the 11th. The first question taken into consideration was the extinction of the rights of fuel or wood within the manors of Waltham Holy Cross and Sewardstone, as they were utterly destructive to the appear¬ ance of the Forest. The total amount of compensation paid by the Conservators for the extinction of this right was £12,922, 13s., in addition to which they have paid costs, making a grand total of about £15,000. The question as to the waste lands unlaw¬ fully enclosed from the Forest, which are in the Act called “ pink lands,” was next dealt with by the Arbitrator. The con¬ dition of quieting the title to those lands it was decided should be by way of rent-charge, and that such rent-charge should be of a uniform rate of Is. a perch (equal to £8 per acre) per annum. The rights of lopping had also to be dealt with, and £7000 paid for the extinction of such rights claimed by the inhabitants of Loughton. The report speaks of the hearty appreciation of the Committee, and of the unwearying patience and careful attention which Sir Arthur Hobhouse, the Arbitrator, bestowed upon the many difficult and complicated questions which he had to decide The arbitration lasted nearly four years. The total sums paid under the Arbitrator’s orders for land and for costs was £77,505 15s. 2d., the average cost being about £70 an acre. The entire 74 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 25. 1883. cost incurred under the arbitration was £109,505, Os. 8 d. The total sum expended in improvements since the formation of this Committee for roads, ponds, green rides, clearing and thinning, draining and planting, and also for levelling the surface by filling up gravel pits and destroying the artificial boundaries and fences set up by enclosers, has been £15,779. Referring to the with¬ drawal of the Great Eastern Railway Company’s proposed ex¬ tension to High Beech, the Committee express a strong opinion as to the necessity for this line to be made. CHRYSANTHEMUMS AT KINGSTON. In your issue of January 11th, page 29, I find a communication from Mr. Douglas. 1 have tried to understand the felicity of his remarks, but quite fail. Surely the question is not debatable whether the Chrysanthemum of to-day is not infinitely superior to what it was twenty-five years ago. It is useless to try and find excuses for what our grandfathers did not do. However, my ob¬ ject in writing you is quite different from dissenting from Mr. Douglas’s remarks on the advance of the Chrysanthemum. I am astonished that Mr. Douglas can come forward and make a statement in reference to my exhibit, which is not only unfair but devoid of truth. My plants were sent “ not for competition,” not that I feared competition, as the more the better, but I find that showing has its drawbacks, and therefore I have now for some time exhibited only “ not for competition.” It appears, however, that to exhibit anything above the usual mark, whether in competition or not, calls down the same amount of jealousy. I shall not say a word more in reference to the spirit manifested by Mr. Douglas. Why, I am at a loss to understand ; but I shall take especial care that no more Chrysanthemum exhibitions will find my plants included. I have informed Mr. Jackson that I wish my name removed as a Vice-President of the Kingston and Surbiton Society, and withdraw my subscription. — T. H. Bryant, Glencairn , Surbiton Hill. REVIEW OF BOOK. les Plantes Potageres : Description et Culture des Principaux Legumes des Climates Temperes. Par Vilmorin, Andrieux ET ClE. Paris. The ancient house of Vilmorin of Paris has conferred many benefits on horticulture and agriculture, and they have added another to the former by the publication of a bulky volume entitled “ Les Plantes Potageres." Some years ago Messrs. Vilmorin gave to the world another work of great usefulness entitled “ Fleurs de Pleine Terre" which has passed through several editions : and this which we have now under notice is one of a similar character devoted to the like treatment of garden vegetables. A work of more importance or more greatly needed we could not name, for the confusion that exists in the nomen¬ clature of vegetables is undoubtedly great. The responsibility of producing such a work could not have fallen into better hands than those of Messrs. Vilmorin. Andrieux and Cie., whose connection with every country on the face of the globe, coupled with the literary and scientific attainments which are known to exist in the establishment, give them an advantage in the preparation of it. It consists of upwards of six hundred pages of matter copiously illustrated with well-executed figures of nearly all the subjects treated of. As an example of the letter- press we give the following translation. American. — Early May Cabbage. German. — York’sches aller- friihestes weisses Kraut, Fiiiher Zucker Maispitzkohl. “ We commence the description of Cabbage by this variety, because without being the earliest of all it is one of the best known and that which is generally cultivated as an early Cabbage. It will be more easy to estimate analogous varieties by comparing them with this. Head oval or in the form of a reversed cone, oblong, almost twice as high as wide, small, pretty firm. Leaves of a dark green colour, somewhat bluish, glaucous or greyish on the under side, the outer ones of those that form the head enveloping the others in the way of a hood ; the loose outer leaves are not numerous, reversed, often crumpled in the course of the midrib, very smooth ; ribs greenish white, pretty wide. Stalk slender, about the height of the head. “ The Superfine Early is a variety of the Early Dwarf York. It differs little from it in its exterior characters, and is principally distinguished by its smaller growth and being about eight days earlier.” There are thirty varieties of Cabbage treated in this manner, and nearly all of them figured, and there are many other sub- varieties which have more or less copious paragraphs devoted to them. After the same manner all culinary plants, including Melons, Strawberries, and Tomatoes, the three latter of which the French always include among “ plantes potageres,” are fully described and in many cases their uses are explained. What makes the work doubly valuable is the voluminous alphabetical index, and this is a characteristic which is not always to be found in French books. Every technical word is registered alphabetically, and there is no hindrance to ready reference. We commend this volume as a valuable acquisition to horticultural literature. NEW AND CERTIFICATED PLANTS OF 1882. MR. W. BULL, KING’S ROAD, CHELSEA. The valuable stores of new, rare, and choice plants in Mr. W. Bull’s establishment at Chelsea have gained great fame in the horticultural world, and this is increasing yearly, for extensive additions are annually made of plants remarkable for the beauty of their foliage or flowers, or interesting for their economic uses. So greatly has the collection increased in recent years that the old quarters no longer afford sufficient accommodation for it, and the numerous ranges of useful houses in the other nursery, on the opposite side of the King’s Road, are now fast becoming as closely packed with floral treasures as those in the original establishment. An important feature is the Orchids, which have attracted some hundreds of visitors during the past year ; and the display promises to be even more magnificent in the course of the present season, judging by the admirable condition of the plants, and in the case of Cattleyas and similar genera by the number of sheaths showing. Even at Christmas, when Orchid flowers are usually comparatively scarce, the houses containing the Odontoglossums and cool Oncidiums were gay with flowers, and afforded most striking proof both of the utility and beauty of well-grown Orchids. In briefly reviewing the novelties of 1882 that were shown from this nursery, we may therefore appropriately give especial prominence to the Orchids. — With the exception of Odontoglossum Alexandras perhaps no Orchid can rank higher amongst the most beautiful and useful species than O. vexillarium, the large delicate rose- tinted flowers of which are produced in such freedom under good cultivation. This varies considerably in the colour and size of the flowers, and several of the distinctly marked varieties have been named. The one, however, which Mr. Bull has designated rubellum is unquestionably the most remarkable in all respects, and it deserves notice here, though not strictly one of last year’s novelties. One of its chief characters is the period at which it flowers — namely, in late summer and autumn, thus forming a succession to the ordinary type. Another distinguishing mark is the deep rose colour of the moderate-sized but well-formed even flowers ; a difference will also be observed in the pseudo-bulbs and leaves, the former being shorter and more globular, while the latter are broader than the early-flowering forms. These qualities are quite sufficient to entitle it to the attention of Orchid growers, especially when its vigorous constitution is taken into consideration. A trio of Odontoglots were certificated at the Royal Botanic So¬ ciety’s Shows — viz., 0. Halli nigrum, 0. Halli pictum, and O. Pesca- torei album, three charming additions to a beautiful genus. The first has already been referred to and figured in this Journal (page 107, last vol.), but it may be here observed that it most fully deserves its title, as the flowers are extremely dark, besides being of great size, with broad sepals and petals. 0. Halli pictum has very dis- CABBAGE. Drassica oleracea capitata, D C. “ Synonymes. — Chou capu, Ch. en tete, Chou pomme, Chou pomme a feuille lisse. “ Foreign Names.— English.— Cabbage. German. — Kopf- kohl, Kraut. Flemish. — Kabuiscool. Dutch. — Slutkool. Danish — Hoved Kail. Italian. — Cavolo cappucio. Spanish. — Col repollo. Portuguese. — Couve repolho. “ The common Cabbage is divided into two classes — those with smooth leaves, and those with blistered or frizzled leaves, the former known by the name of Savoys. We conform to this division ; and in each of the classes we shall describe the varieties as much as possible in the order of earliness, but also taking into account the affinities of the different races. The number of Cab¬ bage seeds contained in a gramme (15-4 grains) is about 320. CHOU D’YORK PETIT HATIF. “ Foreign Names— English.— Early Dwarf York Cabbage. January 25, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 75 tinct markings on the divisions of the flowers, while the last is a white O. Pescatorei, an exceedingly handsome variety, the flowers large, well formed, and the pure crystalline white is relieved by a small blotch of yellow on the lip. Cypripedium insigne, though not so brilliant as some of its relatives, has got a well- merited popularity for usefulness, which the variety aureum, certificated last year, is likely to share. As the name’iim plies, this is a “golden” coloured variety, not very strongly marked, but the tint is clear, and gives a very distinct appearance to the flower, especially when several are seen together in contrast with the darker-coloured forms, or with the beautiful variety Maulei. Phalsenopsis tetraspis, which is also included amongst_ Orchid Fig. 18.— CROSSAXDRA INFUNDIBDLIFORMIS. novelties, is an East Indian species, bearing panicles of fragrant white flowers, individually small, but collectively having a pretty appearance. Fine-foliage Plants.— Additions to these are very numerous, as this class of plants forms one of the special features of Mr. Bull’s collections, and many beautiful novelties are annually sent out from his nurseries. The most remarkable are briefly noted as follows. Acmena ovata, an evergreen ally of the Eugenias, with ovate purple leaves and petioles, the colour being particularly developed in the young growths. It succeeds in a greenhouse temperature, and will probably become a favourite decorative plant. Cleyera japonica tricolor is another useful plant for a 76 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t January 25, iws. greenhouse or conservatory, the leaves being dark green, banded with a lighter shade, margined white and tinged with pink. Of Palms, Arenga Wightii, a dwarf pinnate-leaved species of graceful habit, and Calypti-ogyne teres with arching leaves, which in a young state have two pairs of narrow leaflets, are the best, the latter especially being likely to prove one of the most useful. Half a dozen new Crotons — namely, illustris, insignis, linearis, rubescens, spectabilis, and tricolor, are notable for the richness of their colours, and should be in every collection. Dieffenbachias majestica and princeps are two other handsome variegated plants, the former being especially bold in habit. Dioscorea speciosa is a fine climber for the stove, with heart-shaped dark-green leaves banded with white. Heliconia metallica, an ally of the Musas, with shining bronzy leaves, and the Monstera-like Epipremnum mirabile, the “ Tonga Plant,” which is credited with such valuable anti-neuralgic properties, are all extremely ornamental plants. Of miscellaneous novelties, that represented in the woodcut (fig. 18) — namely, Crossandra infundibuliformis, is perhaps the most striking. It is one of the large Acanthus family, a native of the East Indies, and produces its dense spikes of rich orange- coloured flowers very freely. It succeeds in a stove, and would doubtlessly also do well in an intermediate house. Many other fine plants have been shown by Mr. W. Bull during the past season, and his new plant houses contain abundant stores for future distribution. ST. JOHN’S WORTS. ( Continued from page 12.) In three or four catalogues of hardy herbaceous and alpine plants I find at least twenty kinds of Hypericum included under these designations. Three or four of these — as, for instance, the natives H. montanum and H. alodes — can hardly be considered worth cultivating ; others, as I said in my former notes, are just on the line which separate hardy from half-hardy plants, and unless a stock is kept in shelter they are likely to be lost in hard winters. Others again, though hardy, are short-lived shrubs, and require renewal from cuttings. The result is that until recently it has not been very common to see any St. John’s Wort in gardens except the old-fashioned H. calycinum. This, as I said, is a dwarf running shrub, and it is not easy to define the line between shrubby plants suited for the mixed herbaceous border and those more properly placed in the shrubbery. But here I may mention a St. John’s Wort which grows rather too large for the mixed border, though it is decidedly an ornamental shrub grow¬ ing into a dense bush 4 or 5 feet high, and producing in July and August bunches of five or six or more yellow flowers, followed by dark red or black very ornamental berries. I think it is inter¬ mediate between H. androsaemum and H. elatum ; it reproduces itself by self-sown seed, and the seedlings vary considerably both in the form of the seed pods and in the height of the bush. This is perfectly hardy. In fact one of the parents, if my conjecture is right, is a wild plant in the south of England, but it does better where the soil is dug than in wild places. Another of the shrubby Hypericums, pretty in flower and elegant in growth, hardy in catalogues, but not in the cold reality of exposed gardens, is H. balearicum. This, therefore, must be treated as the H. patulum class. One or two natives may be tried, especially H. pulchrum, the slender St. John’s Wort, of which the bright red buds and clear yellow flowers make it a very pretty object where it can be kept to a dwarf bushy habit; and in dry warm soils I have seen it become a very pretty garden plant. The only other native I have tried is H. humif usum. The flowers of this are small and inconspicuous, but the compact close¬ growing mass of neat bright green leaves make it worth the little room it takes on the rockery, where few plants are better behaved. It comes up year after year of the same size, and never takes more ground than is intended for it. Resembling the last in foliage but not in flower, having beau¬ tifully shaped flowers as large as a florin, is the alpine H. reptans, the best of all the genus for a close-growing rock plant ; but, I fear, like several others, of doubtful hardiness. Still, it ought to be grown on all alpine rockeries as one of their choicest gems. I have had it two or three times, and severe winters or neglect have caused it to disappear ; but in October, 1881, a friend in Surrey gave me a piece about the size of my hand. It was not rooted, as the roots will not divide, but out of its numerous shoots I made about fifty small cuttings, every one of which soon struck. Many of them were planted on the rockeries in May, in such positions as to hang over the edge of stones. They flowered through September and October, and no plants I had were more admired both by their owner and by visitors. Some of the plants were a foot square, but of this expanse hardly any of the shoots overlapped one another, but the growth spreads like a finely divided leaf of Maidenhair Fern clinging close to the stone over which it grows. A pan of cuttings are struck to repeat the same treatment next year, and 1 may add that they will be moved straight from the pan in which they are struck — an ordinary seed- pan a foot square, to their flowering place. Of all the St. John’s Worts I have tried or seen none comes nearer to the character of a true herbaceous plant than H. Bur- seri. It divides itself into several heads, each having a separate root, preserving, however, a compact habit, and disappearing from the surface in winter. In height and in the size of its flowers it resembles H. olympicum, but the yellow of the flower is not so bright nor does it flower so freely, but it is well worth growing, and I think easily kept, though I have hitherto given it select places. Another nearly herbaceous kind, but without much merit as an ornamental plant, is sold, and I believe rightly, by the name of H. orientale. Its flowers are not larger than those of the common wild St. John’s Wort, H. perforatum, which it somewhat resembles, though quite distinct. The foliage is glau¬ cous, like that of the common Spurge, and the plant requires no attention. Few would much regret losing it. A neat variety for the rockery is H. nummularium, a plant which takes its name from the wild Moneywort or Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia), which it somewhat resembles in its growth and the shape of its leaf and the size of its flower. It is, however, less prostrate in habit, and the shoots are much shorter. It increases by running underground and sending up shoots at intervals, much in the same way as H. calycinum, but is much shier in growth. It remains to speak of three neat and pretty dwarf shrubs, ad¬ mirable rock plants, but, unfortunately, not more hardy than most of the shrubs of this genus which have been already mentioned. The first is H. empetrifolium, which forms a nice little bush about 9 inches high, and is covered all through summer with small yellow flowers. In habit it is like that neat evergreen, the native Crowberry (Empetrum nigrum), from which it takes its name. Then we have H. coris, not unlike the last in leaf and flower. The specific name is taken from Dioscorides, the vowel of the first syllable being short in Greek. The root of the word, Itor, suggests sweeping, and would probably have been applied to some plant like Heather, suitable for making brooms, for which our present subject, as we are able to grow it here, would be too small ; but what plant was originally called by the name must remain uncertain. The last and smallest of all the St. John’s Worts is H. mgypti- acum ; this, too, included amongst hardy plants in catalogues, but not hardy in ordinary gardens. It is so small that a specimen may be planted out on a rockery from April to October for two or three years, and still continue contented to be planted in a thumb pot to pass the winter in a cold frame. These three strike easily from small soft cuttings at any time. This completes the list of those I have proved, but I have three or four more now under probation, and there are probably many more which have not yet found their way into gardens. It may be thought from what I have said that this is a troublesome class, but it is not more so than many half-hardy plants which are grown in most gardens from year to year, and makes a pleasing variety amongst them. — C. Wolley Dod. CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. “An Exhibitor and Grower” in his remarks on this subject (page 22), says he pays little attention to ripening the wood, also that the best and largest flowers are produced on rather soft wood. Upon this question I should like to make a few remarks, as I think it requires further explanation. I have many times read of the ripening system, but if there is such a system have never seen it explained, neither have I seen it practised further than this. If the bud be taken at the end of August, all being pinched off, the plants standing in an open airy position until early in October, the wood must naturally become ripened. Take two plants, the buds of which are taken the same day, place one in an open the other in a shady position, and I have no hesitation in saying the first one will produce finer flowers, retain its foliage better, and the wood be much firmer than the other. Therefore I am at a loss to know what is meant by ripening. If there is a system I should very much like to see it explained. On the other hand, if your correspondent knows of any system or treatment by which fine flowers may be produced from buds that are not taken until October, the wood of which is rather soft, I know of several growers, myself included, who would be glad of the information. For several seasons I have seen the collections that have taken many prizes at the principal exhibitions, but have never seen any January 25, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 77 further ripening practised than what I have attempted to explain. — J. Lyne, Belvedere , Wimbledon. 'AN HOUR AT READING. It is scarcely necessary to say that the central feature of the capital of Berkshire is to horticulturists the great establishment of Messrs. Sutton & Sons, but it is not this remarkable building and its marvellous completeness that is to be described now, but only a less imposing but very valuable adjunct — the trial grounds of the firm. These are situated about a mile from the market place, and it is within a walled enclosure that trials of bulbs, annuals, and various kinds of popular flowering plants are con¬ ducted yearly with the object of testing their merits, and wherever it is possible raising new and improved varieties. There is necessarily little of interest outside at this period of the year, but in spring and early summer the bulb ground and plantation of hardy Stocks, of which there is a great variety, will be worthy of inspection, At present the houses are the great points of at¬ traction, and especially those containing Primulas and Cyclamens. It may be useful to notice the character of the structures. They are neither lofty nor architecturally ornate, but plain, serviceable, and admirably adapted for the purpose for which they were constructed. With such houses as these plant culture is easy, and at a comparatively small outlay similar examples might be erected with advantage in gardens large and small over the length and breadth of the land. They are plain low-span roofs with brick sides, rather flat roofs, the angles not exceeding 30°, and high side stages, so that such plants as Primulas and Cyclamens now, and Cinerarias, Begonias, and Gloxinias later in the season, are brought near the glass, and are thus kept sturdy and in better condition than it is possible to produce them in many far more costly erections with which gar¬ deners are often troubled and owners disappointed. With means such as is here afforded and the skilled culture which is so abundantly manifest, results are produced of which it is impossible to speak too highly, and the gentle hint that “ neither strained praise nor making the best of what is provided is agree¬ able,” savoured of a tinge of humour almost approaching irony, for it is a simple fact that the Primulas and the Cyclamens were magnificent a week or two ago, and they are doubtless splendid still, alike in variety, diversity, and culture. Sturdiness with vigour, quality of bloom with substance, purity and brightness of colours, are the prominent characteristics of the plants and flowers. Cross-fertilisation is reduced to a system, every individual cross having been registered for years and its effects chronicled, so that the question of raising new forms is in a very great measure removed from the category of guesswork, and the results can be and are in a very great measure antici¬ pated ; and the fact, for fact it no doubt is, appears to be fully recognised that high culture is not only essential for pourtraying the full beauty of the flowers, but is equally so in the production of seed of strong germinating power. It is believed that just as a w7eak cutting is typical of the future plant, so it is with seed : hence the practice is adopted of growing the plants so well. To describe all the varieties of Primulas were impossible, for there are at the least fifty quite dissimilar, but only a few of these are kept separate. One side of a house filled with Ruby King, and the opposite stage with Pearl, showed to advantage the glow¬ ing richness of the one and the spotless purity of the other. The first named must have high culture, as a check of any kind, and especially to the roots, predisposes to a “ dumpy ” habit ; but grown as it can be grown, and is grown “at home,” massive pyramids of flowers are produced. Too early sowing, starving in small pots, and high potting, are mistakes to be avoided. If once the collar of the plants gets hard above the soil the sap vessels are inevitably contracted, and a vigorous growth is hopeless. Sow in April or early May, grow without a moment’s check throughout, and Ruby King will prove itself worthy of the certificate that it won so well. Its companion, the Pearl, is of free growth, and there is no difficulty whatever in having it in fine condition. It has the great merit of expanding its flowers in the centre of the truss (not producing them in whorls, with flowers outside and buds in the centre), which is no small advantage for market and decorative purposes. Another white demands special notice, although it is perhaps not yet in commerce. It is named Snowdrift, and a more appro¬ priate name could not be suggested. It is so pure that the flowers actually retain their purity when the petals shrivel. They may be likened to stout note paper when fresh, to tissue when faded. But if Pearl is so pure why is Snowdrift needed ? The plants afford a very good answer. The latter variety flowers quite a month sooner than the former, the plants of this averaging at the least a hundred flowers when the others have not more than half a dozen expanded, thus a natural succession is afforded ; and besides, the early or autumn form is Fern-leaved, and the other is not, and they are therefore distinct in character as well as in the time of flowering. Another Fern-leaved variety, very distinct and charming as seen cn masse and so well grown, is Suttons’ Rosy Queen. It has very short leaves, and the rosy salmon flowers show to great ad¬ vantage. Like the Ruby King it evidently needs good culture to bring out its full beauty. Of the same type is Reading Pink, a remarkably fine variety that succeeds the other, deeper in colour, and a favourite with all who see it. A cross between Chiswick Red and Ruby Queen has produced, as might be expected, a very richly coloured variety ; but is yet scarce, and will be seen to better advantage another year. So will the new blue Primula, which is not yet named. It is quite distinct, and wherever the colour is as developed as in a houseful of young plants here, Suttons’ Blue will make its mark. It is curious, almost extra¬ ordinary, as was intimated by Mr. Henelow — as he was reported in his last lecture at the Royal Horticultural Society’s meeting — that when a distinct break is made in a genus that several ex¬ amples are likely to occur in the same season. The parent plant was raised by a gardener from a packet of Suttons’ hybrids, which are sold in mixture, and was sent to the firm ; and it is again singular to observe that the seedlings resultant from this plant produced about a dozen plants with pure white flowers, the rest — about a hundred or so — being what may be fairly termed blue, the margins of some of the segments having a wire of violet. It appears to seed as freely as the others, and is treasured as “ something good.” Another house contains plants from all the strains, so far as could be obtained, in existence, but these cannot be noticed. The task at the best would be invidious, and the space it would occupy not profitably utilised. Then there are double Primulas, or in effect double, but when closely examined the organs of fructifica¬ tion are existent, as in Carnations. These doubles are highly effective, and it is a matter of surprise that more space is not accorded them in the new catalogue of the firm. They certainly merit it, one of them, Prince Arthur, being especially fine. Yet another house is devoted to Primulas — the curiosity house. There are extraordinary forms here, but their characters are not yet fully developed — crested varieties, like tufts of Saxifragas, yellow-flowered varieties, velvety maroons of the hardy Polyan¬ thus colour, striped and margined and spotted sorts, and plants with foliage and leafstalks so strong that, as an observer remarked ‘ a cat might jump on them and do no injury.” It will be inter¬ esting to watch the results of the experiments that will be the outcome of this novel collection. Leaving this maze of Primulas, just a word must be devoted to the Cyclamens. These fill two or three houses, producing a sheet of flowers, which, however effective they are as viewed col¬ lectively in separate blocks of colour, each plant will bear the closest examination, for every one is good. It is indeed seldom that Cyclamens are seen so healthy, floriferous, and fine. The masses of flowers rising like a bouquet a few inches above the foliage need nothing to support them, so sturdy are their stems. A night temperature of about 50° is afforded them now, and in this the flowers expand freely and maintain their freshness for a long time. In the named varieties grown in quantity all colours are represented — at least, all Cyclamen colours, from swan-like white, blush, the various tints of rose, deepening to pink, purple, and glowing crimson, the varieties of the giganteum type being of great size, but the blooms not quite so freely produced as the others. The plants now so fine were raised from seed sown just over a year ago, and thousands of others are now coming through the soil for producing a similar display next winter and spring. A steady unchecked growth induced by a cool stove temperature, with moisture to keep them moving and air and light to keep them vigorous, are the essentials of culture ; but it must be ob¬ served that such plants can seldom be produced in mixed houses. To have Cyclamens in the finest possible condition separate structures are desirable, and if not indispensable, are decidedly advantageous. Eventually the houses now so gay will be not less effectively furnished. The Cineraria season is at hand, and plants are as well grown as is possible for making it a gay one. Then follow the Calceolarias, which will be gorgeous in May, the plants having for some time been in the 8 and 9-inch pots in which they will flower. They are grown in low span-roofed frames from which frost is excluded, but means are adopted for preventing dry heated air from the pipes coming in contact with the plants, which are grown on a flooring of ashes kept moist. Insects are not destroyed, for the simple reason that light fumigations periodically afforded 78 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 25, m prevent an aphis ever appearing. All who covet a grand display of these beautiful flowers can only have it by pursuing the system of culture briefly indicated. Seed for producing huge specimens should be sown early in July. After the spring and early summer flowers above alluded to are over come Tuberous Begonias and Gloxinias. These when in beauty produce a splendid effect under the high culture to which they are subjected. At present the corms are resting, and it may perhaps be useful to some readers to be informed of the method of storing that answers so well. They are assorted according to size and merit of the varieties, the bulk of which are not named, and placed in large flower pots in a mixture of dry sifted peat and pine sawdust, the latter being used to throw mice “ off the scent,” the turpentine of the sawdust not suggesting to them the choice morsels below. Thus the corms are quite safe, and keep perfectly sound and fresh. By growing the different plants indicated there is no difficulty Pig. 19. in having the thirteen or fourteen houses gay throughout the year, and this more easily and satisfactorily than could be done by growing mixed collections of plants. “ Attempt nothing that can¬ not be done well ” appears to be the governing principle, and that everything is done well at Pleading will be apparent even to the hypercritical observer, if he will honestly determine to point out the faults ; he will not find many, unless he is more acute than — A Yisitoe. LEVELLING GROUND. I have a piece of unlevel ground on which I am requested to make a tennis lawn of considerable size. Unfortunately, like many other young men, I have had no opportunities of assisting in work of this nature, and I am unwilling to admit my ignorance to the men, some of whom no doubt would be able to do the work. But I wish to understand it myself before commencing, and if you can give me a few very plain instructions you may possibly be doing a service to some others who, from no fault of their own, are as unprepared as myself in a n a'ter of this kind, and may not like to bring the fact to your notice. I shall be glad if you can in any way help — One in a Fix. [We willingly assist in this case and do not know that we can do so more usefully than by publishing the very plain instruc¬ tions that were communicated by Mr M. O’Donnell some years ago as follows : — “ If the ground presents an uneven sur¬ face, or is formed of a sloping bank, either inconveniently steep or presenting an irre¬ gular surface, it will be necessary to level it, which may be done in the following manner : — Take a stout peg and drive it into the ground, as a, fig. 19 ; take a level — either such as is used by bricklayers, as in fig. 19, or a parallel straight-edge containing a spirit tube, commonly known as a spirit level — drive in as many pegs as are required, as b , to the same level as the first peg a. The level line c, c, is the line required ; the ground line, d, is the un¬ even surface of the ground, which requires filling up to the level at peg b. As soon as the pegs are in, level the ground with a spade, keeping the earth full up to the top of the pegs, tread it firmly all over, rake it carefully, and roll it well. “ If the ground chosen should be sloping, as b, fig. 20, two depths must be determined upon, one at the highest and one at the lowest point. Place a borning-rod at each of these points, as at points 1 and 3, place another in any point between the two, as the intermediate borning-rod 2. By looking over the top of rod 1 the person holding the intermediate rod can be directed to lower or raise it as occasion may require, until it is brought to the proper level, as rod 2. Rod 1 is supposed to be a little raised by placing some earth under it for the purpose of getting it to the proper level, a, a — that is, the level determined upon. Rod 2 is elevated until the top edge forms a direct line with rods 1 and 3. Rod 3 is placed on the natural ground. The cross piece of rod 3 should be 1 inch broader and higher than the others — that is to say, if rods 1 and 2 are 4 feet high, rod 3 must be 4 feet 1 inch but a line must be drawn exactly at 4 feet, and the top inch painted black. On looking over rod 1 the black line on rod 3 can be seen more distinctly than the top edge of the rod vyouid be, and intermediate rod 2 can be placed more correctly in a line with the top of rod 3 — that is, the under edge of the black, than by locking over the tops of the three rods. “ The borning-rod is composed of a thin piece of board about 4 inches wide, half an inch thick, and about 4 feet in length. The head is a similar piece of board placed crossways, but only about 18 inches in length. The upper and under edge of the board must be perfectly straight and at right angles with the body.”] THE METEOROLOGICAL SOCIETY. The annual general meeting of this Society was held on Wednesday the 17th instant, at the Institution of Civil Engineers, Mr. J. K. Laughton, M.A., F.R.A.S., President, in the chair. The Secretary read the report of the Council, which showed that the total number of Fellows was 571, forty-seven new Fellows having been elected during the year. The President then delivered his address. He referred briefly to the great importance of the uniform series of observations now taken under the auspices of the Society, and proceeded to speak at gi eater length of certain other points in which the Society might, by its concerted action, further the interests of meteorological science, ihe first of these was anemometry, which is at present in a condition tai from satisfactory*. We know nothing positively either as to t e pressure or the velocity of the wind : there is no exact standard instrument, and observations, whatever maybe their absolute value, are not comparable one with the other. He thought that the Society might properly interfere, so far as to regulate the wide diversity amongst the instruments now used, in order that when the pioper time came, and it was known what anemometer could be trusted, the older observations might be reduced. The movement of air in the upper regions of the atmosphere is not measurable by any existing method ; but experiments have been made, at the suggestion of the Meteorological Council, in which the drift of the smoke-cloud of a bursting shell may be observed and measured. The observations of the barometer taken at elevated stations in the United States seem to throw considerable doubt on the received formulae for the reduction of barometric readings to sea level, and for the calculation of heights. When the observations extend over a long period, and are regularly taken under all conditions of weather, then no doubt the height of a mountain can be calculated with a fair approach to accuracy ; but Fig. 20. isolated observations, subject to the fluctuations of the different readings, are extremely wild in their results. In the same way the reduction of the barometer to sea level is complicated by many dis¬ crepancies which arise between observations at the upper and lower stations, which have hitherto been ignored. It is impossible to say how far they affect the isobars on which our daily weather charts are based ; but it is at least probable that they are at least one additional source of error and of difficulty. It is much to be wished that systematic and continuous observations at high-level stations could be taken, not only on the top of Ben Nevis, but on the tops of some others of the highest peaks in different parts of the country. In this way alone can these difficulties of reduction be cleared away. The following gentlemen were elected the Officers and Council for the ensuing year : — President — John Knox Laughton, M.A., F.R.A.S., F.R.G.S. Vice-Presidents — Edmund Douglas Archibald, M.A. ; Rogers Field, B.A., M.Inst.C.E. ; Baldwin Latham, M.Inst.C.E., F.G.S. ; William Marcet, M.D., F.R.8., F.C.S. Treasurer — Henry Perigal, F.R.A.S. Trustees — Hon. Francis Albert Rollo Russell, M.A. . * JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 25, 1863. ] Stephen William Silver, F.R.G.S. Secretaries — George James Symons, F.R.S. ; John William Tripe, M.D., F.R.C.P.Ed. Foreign Secretary — Robert Henry Scott, M.A., F.R.S., F.G.S. Council — Hon. Ralph Abercromby, William Morris Beaufort, F.R.A.S., F.R.G.S. ; John Sanford Dyason, F.R.G.S. ; Henry Storks Eaton, M.A. ; William Ellis, F.R.A.S. ; Joseph Henry Gilbert, Ph.D., F.R.S., F.C.S. ; Charles Harding, Robert John Lecky, F.R.A.S. ; Capt. John Pearse Maclear, R.N. ; Edward Mawley, F.R.H.S. ; George M&thews Whipple, B.Sc., F.R.A.S. ; Charles Theodore Williams, M.A., M.D., F.R.C.P. ORCHIDS AT FERN SIDE, BICKLEY PARK, KENT. Cleanliness is here considered of the greatest importance in Orchid-growing. At this time of year the houses are thoroughly washed, so as to admit all the light possible, and the wralls are whitewashed. We employ pure water, and consider it best for cleaning the plants. They are occasionally fumigated with tobacco, and if this is done with care it will not injure them. If scale becomes troublesome we use a little Bridgeford’s antiseptic liquid, which will soon clear off all scale or any other insects. The following Orchids are now in flower : — EAST INDIAN HOUSE. Bollea coelestis Calanthe Veitchi nivalis vestita lutea oculata vestita rubra oculata Cypripedium pardinmn Parrisianum Warneri Dendrobium Ainswortlii Cambrid geanum Findleyanum keterocarpum CATTLE Cattleya exoniensis Ccelogyne barbata corymbosa crista ta Comparettia rosea Dendrobium Farmer! nobile Dendrobium Wardianum crassinode c. Barberianum Cymbidium Mastersi Odontoglossum Boezli B. album Pescatorea Klabochiana Lekmanni Plialfenopsis grandiflora Spathoglottis Lobbi Vanda Catkcarti HOUSE. Ladia an ceps a. Barkeriana Odontoglossum Londesborougkianum vexillarium roseum Oncidium ckeiropkorum Pilumna nobile "Varna cyanea COOL HOUSE. Barkeria elegans cyclotella Liudleyana Skinneri Cypripedium insigne, several i. Maulei Boxalli Masdevallia amabilis tovarensis, several Jlesospinidium sanguineum vulcanicum Lrelia autunmalis atrorubens autumualis albida rosea -Edwabd Wilson. Laalia albida Odontoglossum Alexandra constrictum Pescatorei Uro-Skinneri Bossi majus bictonensis Oncidium serratum superbiens Houlletia guttata Sopkronitis grandiflora g. violacea purpurea ^ Mm jti A B WORK.foiuhe WEEK . ' Mo ^T7V g/uOr [j By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments. ] HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. Pruning. — Old trees with huge spurs, apparently barren, are a source of trouble and anxiety to inexperienced fruit-growers. In every case our advice is to do nothing rashly ; many precious years are required for the full development of spurs, and not one of them should be removed lightly. It is true enough that the tissue of such old spurs is so much contracted and hardened that sap-action is somewhat sluggish ; but that, instead of being an evil is often advantageous in its well-known tendency to induce the formation of fruit buds. Carefully examine them, thin crowded growths, then turn to the roots ; sever any of them that have gone down into the subsoil, replace exhausted soil either with rich loam from the surface of a meadow or with soil that will grow good vegetables, and the old trees will probably soon surpass younger ones in quantity if not quality of fruit. Old Plum trees so treated yield abundant crops of excellent fruit. We may also 79 mention two very old espalier Apples with only the top branches remaining with spurs fully a yard long, which are kept as curious relics of bygone days, that in every favourable season are laden with fruit that is really useful. In thinning crowded spurs upon young trees, if possible prune to a fruit bud rather than cut close to the base of the interloper if the condition of the tree renders it desirable ; but if crowded spurs are thick set with fruit buds, then the entire removal of some of them is necessary, or the fruit will be crowded and small. And remember that it is better to thin the wood than the fruit, for then light and air freely circulates among the foliage, the tree is more easily kept in a healthy condition, and the due proportion of blossom, fruit, and foliage is maintained. Planting. — This has been much retarded by wet weather, and must now be finished as soon as possible. Never plant a tree that is weakly or having the slightest trace of disease. Shorten any long bare roots, remove all bruised portions with a clean cut, and prune the branches before planting. The greatest possible care must be given to every detail of planting, no matter whether it is in an old or new garden. There is often much slovenly practice in filling vacancies in old orchards ; the soil being disturbed as little as possible, the roots crowded into a small hole, the soil thrown in and trampled hastily upon them, and very little more done. Even if the soil is good it should be broken up for at least a yard around the site of the tree, the roots spread carefully out in it, covered and mulched just as though it were a new orchard, and if it is in grass tree-guards at once put to keep off cattle. A free robust growth the first season always rewards such judicious care, just as a feeble sluggish growth betokens the want of it. Training Filberts. — No trees require more careful training than Filberts and Nuts, yet how seldom do they have it ! We have some trees now in full bearing that were planted twelve years ago. They are 30 feet in circumference, yet the tops of the branches are only 4 feet from the ground. Each tree has four or five main branches, spreading outwards in the form of a shallow basin : this form was imparted to them during the first four years by fastening them downwards and outwards to pegs driven in the soil 2 to 3 feet from the stem. Pyramidal Fruit Trees. — These also require great care at first while the branches are young and pliant. Pruning to an outer bud must be supplemented by training, drawing each tier of branches outwards from the stem as may be necessary ; erect compact-growing sorts requiring more care than others of spread¬ ing habit. Tarred string of the soft twisted sort answers best for this purpose ; it lasts a year, and the annual renewal prevents that harm to the fast-swelling growth which is so common when wire is used. Shelter. — This is of much importance in hardy fruit culture. If possible choose a warm southern slope for your trees, or a nook from which wind from the north and east is practically excluded. Failing such natural advantages do all you can by planting a thick belt of fast-growing trees on the cold sides, in order to save the blossom from the fatal effects of cold winds. FRUIT-FORCING. Vines. — Proceed with tying and stopping young growths until there is sufficient formed to give an even spread of foliage over every part of the trellis. Select the most compact bunches for the crop, fertilising all shy-setting kinds with pollen from Hamburghs as soon as they come into flower. Thin Hamburghs and other free-stoning kinds as soon as the berries commence swelling after setting. If the inside borders in early houses have not been watered since they were started they should have a good supply at a temperature of 80° to 85° as soon as the thin¬ ning has been brought to a close. In the fermenting material, if any have been employed on outside borders, a temperature of 80° must be maintained by frequent turnings and additions of fresh material. That employed inside the house may be continued during the swelling of the Grapes, but care must be taken to employ well-sweetened materials only, or it is likely the ammonia vapour will injuriously affect the foliage. Syringe succession houses two or three times a day, and turn the fermenting materials frequently for the purpose of liberating moisture and ammonia. Disbud as soon as the best bunches are distinguishable, and discontinue the syringing when they become prominent, but keep up atmospheric moisture by damping the path and walls until flowering commences, when a circulation of dry air with a little more heat will facilitate the setting. Fruiting Vines in pots must be well attended to, thinning early, and being careful not to overcrop, supplying them with liquid manure a few degrees warmer than the house, and add a little fresh top-dressing as the roots appear on the surface. 80 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ January 25, 1883. Cut-back Vines intended to be grown into fruiters for next season may be placed in heat, and when they have made 2 or 3 inches of growth shake out and repot them in rough rich compost, using pots 6 to 9 inches in diameter, and training the growths near the glass. Examine the bunches in the Grape room, and dispense with fire heat there as far as possible, yet prevent an accumulation of damp. Melons. — If seed was sown as previously advised the plants will have made one or two rough leaves, and should be potted at once into G-inch pots, be again plunged in a bottom heat of 75° to 80°, aud kept near the glass, placing a small stick to each. Those intended for planting in hot-water pits or dung-heated frames need not be potted, but being stopped at the second rough leaf can be planted as soon as the soil has become of the same tempera¬ ture as the pits or frames. The best soil for Melons is a turfy loam inclined to be tenacious rather than sandy, which has been cut and stacked during the previous summer. This chopped up will be sufficiently rich without any manure ; but if poor soil is used one-fourth of well-decomposed manure may be incorporated. Make a hillock in the centre of each light by placing in a barrow¬ ful of soil, and leave a space of 10 to 12 inches from the glass. Insert a plant in each hillock, or two if the light be large, making the soil rather firm about the roots. See that it is mode¬ rately moist before planting, and ascertain that the bottom heat does not exceed 90°. A ring of dry soot and quicklime around each plant will keep snails at bay. Sow seed for successional crops, and get more fermenting materials ready for making additional hotbeds and for linings. Cucumbers. — With more light the growth will be increased, necessitating more copious and frequent applications of liquid manure in a tepid and diluted state. The night temperature may still be continued at 65° ; 2° or 3° higher in mild or less in severe weather, ventilating from 75°, and increasing with sun to 85° or 90°, maintaining the bottom heat between 80° and 90°. Close the house early in the afternoon, and damp the pathways and plants when the weather is favourable for so doing at closing time. Remove at once any superfluous or deformed fruit, decayed wood, or leaves as they appear. If green or black aphis become trouble¬ some fumigate on two or three consecutive evenings moderately, applying flowers of sulphur against mildew, or paint the hot- water pipes thinly with the same brought to a thin wash with skim milk. Transfer young plants into larger pots as they require it, keeping them near the glass till ready to plant out near the trellis, placing a stick to each ; but those for planting in pits or frames for training over the surface of the soil should be stopped at the second rough leaf. The hillocks can be formed as advised for Melons. Cucumbers thrive well in a compost of three parts rather light loam, and one in equal proportions of old hotbed manure and road scrapings, with a sprinkling of charcoal. PLANT HOUSES. Stove. — Rhynchospermum yasminoides is a valuable plant for supplying abundance of fragrant white Jasmine-like flowers from the present time to the month of June if properly prepared for the purpose and forced into flower. Although this is a greenhouse plant which will bear a very low temperature while at rest, it will make much greater progress if subject to stove treatment during its season of growth. When grown in heat its shoots are much longer and soon cover a fair-sized trellis. Beautiful decorative plants quite suitable for forcing can be grown in 5 and G-inch pots, which will with a little care and attention soon assume a sturdy bushy habit of growth, which is decidedly the best for decoration and forcing. A number of plants according to the demand should be introduced into a temperature of 55°, and syringed twice daily, and in a few weeks their flowers will be produced. A batch of cuttings can now be taken from any plant that has finished flowering, and these will root readily under a bellglass in any warm house, or better still where a little bottom heat can be given. Useful plants will be obtained in twelve months if grown on under stove treatment. This plant will flourish well in either all peat or loam, the former being prefer¬ able, as it does not become sour so quickly. Greenhouse. — Cyclamens from seed sown towards the end of the summer, and which have been kept close to glass in a tempera¬ ture of 45°, will now be thoroughly established in 2-inch pots, and ready for transferring into others 2 inches larger. Employ a compost of loam, cow manure, a little leaf soil, and coarse sand. In potting keep the corms moderately well above the soil for fear of damp, which should be expelled on fine days by the appli¬ cation of fire heat, when the ventilators can be freely opened. Supply water carefully until the roots take to the new soil, and remove all flowers that make their appearance as soon as they can be seen. Where seed was sown during the month of October, and the plants kept in a night temperature of 60", they will now be ready for placing in small pots, using more leaf soil in the compost than will be necessary for the next potting. Potting is preferable to pricking them out into other pans until they attain a larger size, which not unfrequently results in a check. Place the small pots on a shelf close to the glass, and if practicable plunge them amongst cocoa-nut fibre, which will assist in preventing the soil drying too rapidly. Keep the house close until they commence growth, then admit air daily when favourable to insure a sturdy and dwarf, instead of weak drawn growth. If sufficient stock has not been raised sow without delay, as some very useful plants can be produced for flowering next winter from seed sown at the present time. Plants that have been prepared for flowering and kept as cool as possible will, if placed in a temperature of 50°, quickly produce their flowers. Arrange them close to the glass and ventilate daily to keep the flowers and foliage from drawing, or much of the beauty of the plants will be lost. Give liquid manure every time watering is necessary. Begonias that flowered in early autumn, such as Dregei, weltoni- ensis, and semperflorens, should be partly cut back, shaken out and repotted in a mixture of loam, leaf soil, manure, and sand, and placed in more heat and moisture. They will flower again in a few weeks, and not only useful for the stove and conservatory but supply abundance of useful flowers for cutting. Tuberous varieties that were rested early may now be started in a tempera¬ ture of 50°, and brought on gently for conservatory decoration. FEEDING. ( Continued from par/e 16.) In the article on Feeding given in the Journal for January 4th, autumn and spring feeding of stocks were recommended. The desirability of the former so as to induce the queen to continue laying up to the end of September seems to be called in question by “ Stinger,” in his remarks published January 18th. For this reason, before proceeding with our advice concerning the feeding of swarms, and what we termed obligatory feeding, it may be necessary to retrace our steps somewhat, and to say a few more words relative to autumn feeding. “ Stinger ” asks if we mean to say that we can induce our queens to lay after they have ceased to do so in the autumn. There is not the smallest doubt about i . Our experience, although perhaps not reaching over so many years as that of “ Stinger,” has clearly shown us that the queen’s power of and desire for depositing eggs are produced, not by date or season of the year directly, but by a rising temperature and steady’ influx of food indirectly. Indirectly the warm summer weather and the natural harvest of honey stimulate the queen to exert her greatest possible powers to increase her colony. In like manner indirectly warm coverings to hives and an artificial supply of stimula ive food tend more or less to the same purpose, according as they are as isted or adversely’ acted upon by bright or dull weather and higher or lower external temperature. Each and all these causes we hold to act indirectly on the queen. The direct agency is the animation caused among the workers, which reacts on the queen, and Nature teaches her to continue, or maybe to recommence, laying in order to replace the balance of animal power lost to the hive through the continued exertions of its workers. In these days, when thousands of stocks are rescued by intelligent bee-keepers from the sulphur fumes, the fact hardly needs stating that queens can be made to recommence laying after they have ceased to do so in autumn. In nearly every instance in which a stock so rescued has been transferred, combs and all, to a bar-frame hive and gently fed, fine batches of young bees have been raised, and such stocks have invariably turned out to be among the best in the apiary for the ensuing season. Even without the facilities afforded by bar-frame hives and sheets of foundation, we have years ago built up strong colonies in straw skeps, feeding far into October, and these have been wintered with heaps of young bees, proving our best stocks in the next season. Again, in very mild winters there are hives which are never without some eggs and brood, more or less, according to circum¬ stances, and in tropical climates bees hatch and rear young almost without ceasing. This is caused by the indirect action of a con¬ stant high temperature and a supply of honey all the year round where flowers of various sorts are ever in bloom. Speaking of bees in hot climates, we cannot help digressing a moment to record JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 25, 1883 ] 81 what came under our notice this Christmas. A friend sent some honey which had been brought from St. Kitt3, in the 'West Indies. It had a decided smack of molasses, not such honey as we should care to have our bees collecting. The foreign little rogues had evidently not been satisfied with lawful spoils. We wrote and told our friend so, venturing a suspicion that his bees had made too close an acquaintance with the pressing-house. He tells us in reply that at times they infest the house where the canes are pressed, although flowers are in bloom all the year round. Doubt¬ less it is at a season when the principal natural supply is failing, and only shrubs here and there are in flower. We know that when the honey harvest is at its height in our own country bees will take no notice of vessels of honey stood about in the open air. However, bees must breed all the year long in such a climate as that experienced in the West Indies, in order to be able to continue the existence of the species. Where there is such continual wear and tear there must be constant reinforcement. We have gone farther than we need have done to prove that queens can be induced to continue laying after the season of natural rest has set in. We, however, did not say in our letter of the 4th inst. that our queens were permitted to discontinue laying, and then be induced by stimffative feeding to recommence, although this is the inference “Stinger” would draw from our letter. What we advocated was to cause to be carried on by feed¬ ing until the end of September wbat would in some districts be dropped at the end of August — viz., the gradual increase in the numbers of young bees. We did not wish to set down a hard-and- fast rule as to any particular date until which ieeding should be continued. It is obvious that locality must greatly influence this. One would not advocate feeding a stock of bees until October in a cold northern county. Between the north of Scotland and the south of England there would, generally speaking, be from six weeks’ to two months’ difference in what we might term the com¬ mencement of winter. The present winter has been a noted example of this. Trains were snowed up on the Scotch lines when we had a temperature of from 45° to 50° in the south-west of England. Again, the seasons differ. We have of late years, at any rate south of the Thames, had a succession of mild autumns. Should severe frost or snow threaten us early in October, then feeding would be at once discontinued. And how different are the conditions to be taken into consideration by those living in a district where the natural harvest closes when the Clovers are cut from those who enjoy the immediate vicinity of acres, perhaps miles of purple Heather ! In the former case the queens cease laying altogether, or only lay small patches of eggs in August ; whereas in the neighbourhood of the Heather the greatest harvest of the yrear is yet to be completed, and the hives are all aglow with fervent work. Where the quickly filled combs are judiciously withdrawn by the careful bee-master, and plenty of space given for storing on the sides of and above the brood-nest, the queen will continue laying vigorously until the harvest ends with the month of September, fine warm weather even continuing it into October in hilly countries. Would “ Stinger ’ in both cases adhere to his maxim — “ If the stocks are scarce of food by all means feed them, not without ? ” In the Heather district it is very plain that artificial feeding would be unnecessary, providing the weather allowed the bees to take advantage of the harvest. But how different the case in the Clover district. Let us see what would happen if such a rule were acted upon. Granted a successful Clover honey harvest, the bees would have plenty of food. We are, therefore, to let them alone. The same mild weather which allows of the ingathering of the Heather honey will tempt the bees in the other district to be ever abroad. The few flowering plants left will be sufficient to keep the bees foraging, and they will ever be seeking out weak and unde¬ fended hives on which to developc their robbing faculties. Still no constant addition is made to the stores. But bees would die. Beaten down by the mild but boisterous equinoctial winds, by sudden showers, or falling a prey to the thousand natural enemies awaiting them, the stock would be considerably diminished. Yet so little inducement would have been given to the queen to lay many eggs, owing to the absence of excitement in the hive, that the colony would settle into its winter quarters with few young bees to recruit its strength, and be a weak one in the spring. What we would aim at is to keep up breeding until such time as the bees are likely at once to remain quiescent through the winter immedi¬ ately after its discontinuance, to have our hives go into winter quarters with numbers of young bees. For the sake of intending bee-keepers and beginners in the art, we again repeat this sentence — “ Numbers of young bees.” By all means let us have the opinions of others on this matter, as “Stinger” suggests. As stated in our last letter, we consider the science of feeding of such paramount importance that it cannot be too carefully studied or too much written upon, and in the multitude of counsellors there is wisdom. “Stinger’s” warn¬ ings, however, seem to be, Beware of autumn feeding, and Depend on spring feeding. We would reverse this. Surely hives are often fed too soon in early spring ; how much more wintry weather we get in March than in September as a rule ! If our pets were put to bed in good condition there is no reason why we should insist on awaking them so early in the cold March morning. Let the energies of the hive be awakened at the same pace as spring awakens the sleeping flowers. When they put forth their beauties from the sun-warmed earth, then it will be time to help the bees to increase rapidly their numbers to woo the sweet blossoms. Last spring was an exception to the majority of many past springtides. Little stimulative food was required ; so genial was the opening year that the land yielded her flowers, although not her fruits, in due season. We have learnt a lesson to be careful — very careful — how and when we force on our stocks in spring. When the weather assists our endeavours it is by far an easier matter to obtain plenty of bees early enough for the summer harvest or for the swarming season than to have stocks which shall begin the winter full of young life ; therefore, again, we say that spring feeding is only supplementary to autumn feeding. The stronger the stock which has passed through the winter the safer can we apply to it our system of stimulative increase in spring. With the varying changes of the spring weather — from cold to hot, from hot to cold, so the strong cluster of bees condenses and expands, expands and condenses, still covering the growing brood-nest. We hold that there is more danger of getting chilled brood by feeding not over-strong hives early in spring than there is by feeding stocks up to the end of September. In concluding this letter we must thank “Stinger” for having drawn our attention again to the matter, and thus giving us an opportunity to write more fully on the subject, and we would earnestly invite others to give us their experienced opinion as to the merits of autumn stimulative Ieeding. Our further remarks on feeding in general must stand over to another oppor¬ tunity. — P. II. P. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Charles Turner, Slough. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. William Rumsey, Waltham Cross. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Floioer Seeds. G. C. Elliott, Huddersfield. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. W. Tait & Co., Dublin. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. J. Cheal & Sons, Crawley, Sussex. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds ( Illustrated .) George Cooling & Son, Bath. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. W. Toogood, 58, Above Bar, Southampton. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. R. H. Poynter, Castle Green, Taunton. — Seed List for 1883. E. Wilson, Serpell, Plymouth. — Seed List for 18S3. Hogg & Robertson, 22, Mary Street, Dublin. — Catalogue of Vege¬ table , Flower Seeds. Garden Implements, .).— It will be well not to have the plants too early, as they will become drawn if long kept in a greenhouse. If you can procure sturdy plants from a cool house or pit during the last week in April, place them on a shelf in your greenhouse for a day or two, then shift them into pots 2 or 3 inches wider than those in which they arrive, using a compost of turfy loam three parts, the remainder equal portions of leaf soil and decayed manure, adding sand to make the whole porous. As soon as the weather per¬ mits place them in the frame. When roots protrude through the pots transfer the plants to larger, 6-inch pots being suitable, using richer soil by substituting manure for the leaf soil, and adding a little soot — about a twentieth part of the bulk. Apply water carefully at first, and afterwards more copiously, ventilating freely and removing the lights on all favourable occasions, eventually at night as well as during the day. Before these pots are crowded with roots place the plants in 8 or 9-inch pots, pressing an inch or two of manure over the drainage, and a sprinkling of soot, using richer and stronger soil than before ; plunge the plants in ashes in a sunny yet sheltered position, and treat them the same as Chrysanthemums. When crowded with roots liquid manure will be of service, and eventually top-dressings of rich compost. The following good and free- flowering varieties : — Alba (White Queen), gracilis superba, scarlet ; glabrata, lilac ; Othello, crimson ; Rose Queen, Tyro, mauve ; Painted Lady, Yellow Gem, and Zulu. Syringing Peach Blossom ( F . C., Inver). — We think you will have destroyed the aphides, and hope you have not injured the Peach blossoms. We have never tried nor recommended a “ paraffin mixture at a temperature of 130° for Peach blossoms ; ” our method is to destroy all insects before the blossoms expand by fumigating and syringing. We should not like to syringe Peach blossoms at all so early in the season, and especially if the weather were dull, for fear of converting the pollen into paste, and preventing fertilisation and a good set of fruit. In dry, bright, breezy weather we have syringed Peach trees occasionally when in flower, and have obtained fine crops of fruit. Various (Idem). — Chrysanthemums may be cut down as soon as the flowers have faded, but leaving them until the stems decay does no harm. It is not too late to obtain and pot Tuberoses. Pot them and bury in cocoa-nut fibre refuse as you would Hyacinths, and in the course of a few weeks place the pots in gentle heat, a little bottom heat being useful but not essential. Lilium lanci- folium should not be placed in heat at any time, a greenhouse temperature being quite sufficient. Tropseolum speciosum may be planted now if you can obtain roots, and have them kept quite moist with damp moss in transit. In dry dis¬ tricts it is better with a north aspect ; in Scotland and moist localities no par¬ ticular aspect is requisite. We do not know what you mean by the Passion¬ flower Clematis. The remaining questions shall be attended to next week ; we have answered the most urgent. You usually send your questions rather late ; the earlier they arrive after the date of publication the fuller and more useful, as a rule, are our replies. Destroying Weeds on Walks (Somerset). — Whatever you apply to walks of sufficient strength to kill weeds will injure both Box or grass edgings if they are not protected with boards, or if care is not otherwise exercised in preventing either carbolic acid or salt reaching the edgings. We are not able to say whether “ J. H.” (page 385, vol. iv.), applies salt to walks margined with Box, but if this meet his eye he will perhaps supply the information. In the other case to which you refer there were no Box edgings to be injured. We should not remove the mats from the Eucalyptus until the spring or when severe frosts are no longer expected. Your other question will be answered next week. Exhausted Azaleas (Jumbo).— If you cannot improve the condition of the plants by applications of liquid manure, that made from cowdung being good if used clear, and of the colour of pale ale, or by top-dressings by fertilisers, Standen’s manure being suitable for these plants, then you must adopt another method. The pots it appears are already as large as you require, but instead of shaking the roots out it will probably be a better plan to shave off a portion of the ball, formed by a mass of roots, with a strong sharp knife. We have seen a small sharp axe used for this purpose, and a slice cut off all round 2 or 3 inches thick, as much as possible of the old soil being also scraped off the surface. It • is not unlikely that most of the roots next the sides of the pot are dead, but the stronger roots in the interior may be alive ; these if placed in contact with fresh soil and the plants carefully watered will probably emit young fibres, and thus the health of the plants may be restored. Good turfy peat such as Heaths delight in, not a mere spongy mass of decayed vegetation, and a liberal admix¬ ture of silver sand will be suitable for placing round the roots. If the peat at your disposal is not of the proper kind, then you may mix with the best you have a little sweet leaf soil and light turfy loam. It is of the greatest import¬ ance that the roots are in a moist but not wet medium when the plants are repotted, aud they must be soaked if necessary for a few hours to thoroughly moisten the original soil, then allowed to drain. In repotting the pots must be clean and well drained, the new soil to be pressed as firmly as the old, otherwise the water will drain off the former and saturate the latter. If good judgment be exercised in watering and the plants are placed in a brisk temperature and syringed frequently they will possibly recover. In all probability pruning will not be needed, at any rate so freely as you suggest, but the flower buds should be picked off, and any dead and very inferior portions cut out. We have rein¬ vigorated Azaleas in the manner indicated, but success depends entirely on the skill and attention of the cultivator in watering aud otherwise ministering to the requirements of the plants. Fuchsias and Pelargoniums (J. B.).— Unless you can syringe the plants occasionally in the structure in which you keep rabbits the atmosphere will be too dry for the Fuchsias if not for the Pelargoniums. You will do well to defer purchasing plants until May, and then have them strong, well-furnished, and established in 5-inch pots. By shifting them into pots 2 inches larger when the roots show through the drainage of the others, and watering carefully at JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 25, 1883. ] first, and syringing, the Fuchsias especially, twice a day in bright weather, pinching off the points of the shoots when they have grown 3 or 4 inches, training the leader to a stake, you may perhaps accomplish your object, but everything depends upon your cultural skill. Stopping the shoots must cease within seven or eight weeks of the show. Suitable soil will be two-thirds of fresh turfy loam, the remainder decayed manure and wood ashes, with a tenth part of sand, more or less according to the texture of the loam. This soil and general treatment will apply also to the Pelargoniums, but they need more sun and less syringing than the Fuchsias. By applying weak liquid manure after the pots are filled with roots you may easily have Fuchsias 2 feet high in 7-inch pots ; but it is usual to grow Pelargoniums more dwarf and bushy. Good dark Fuchsias for your purpose are Improvement and Victor Emanuel ; good lights, White Souvenir de Chiswick and Starlight. Good Zonal Pelargoniums are Henry Jacoby, crimson : Miss Hamilton, blush pink ; A. F. Barron, scarlet; and Fanny Catlin, salmon. By limiting yourself to the prescribed number you may fail, and you should leave a margin lor accidents or mistakes. Two useful foliage plants are Latauia borbonica and Ficus elastica ; you cannot easily fail with these. Cropping Land Profitably (J. B. IF.).— As so much depends on the skill of the cultivator and his aptitude for commercial gardening, it is impossible to give a categorical reply to such letters as the one before us. The nature of the soil, too, is a matter of importance in determining a question of this nature. AVe presume Snowdrops and Crocuses do well with you. For the former there is a good demand. Lilies of the Valley might be grown profitably for selling the crowns or flowers, or both. With high culture crowns equal to those im¬ ported might, we think, be grown in your district, but whether by yourself or not we cannot say. If Violets thrive well they are very profitable, and you could easily send bunches to all the most important markets of the north. We make these suggestions, but cannot incur the responsibility of indicating a series of crops, for the demand for most things varies from year to year. Grubs in Celery Leaves (A. C. D.).— The leaf you have sent contains larva; of the Celery fly (Tephritis onopordinis). In the autumn it is very com¬ mon to observe part of the leaves of Celery plants blistered and turned yellow, and this occurs occasionally to such an extent that their growth is checked and their size diminished. If the withered parts are examined and the skin of the blisters is raised there will be found beneath it some small green grubs that have eaten away all the green pulp (parenchyma) of the parts so withered. These grubs are the larva; of the Celery fly. The grubs may be found in the leaves of the Celery in June, July, September, October, and November, for there are two or more broods of them in the course of the year. The grubs, through less fre¬ quently, are found doing similar damage to the leaves of Alexanders and Pars¬ nips. When full grown the grubs descend into the earth and remain in the chrysalis state until the spring following, when they give birth to the fly. The Celery fly may usually be found upon the leaves of the Laurel, hovering over flowers and resting upon palings in the sunshine, from the middle of May to the end of July. It is one of the most beautiful of the English two-winged flies, and has been thus described by Mr. Westwood The general colour of the body, which is five-jointed, varies from rusty brown to shining black ; head buff, with black hairs ; legs yellow ; thorax sprinkled with long black hairs ; wings black, with various pale spots ; eyes green. The whole length of the insect is not more than one-sixth of an inch, and its wings when outspread barely half an inch across. The motions of this fly are very peculiar. Seated upon a leaf in the sunshine, the wings are partially extended, yet partially elevated, and it has a sidling kind of motion. The withered leaves of the Celery should be picked off and the grubs within them crushed as soon as seen. Mr. Westwood suggests that a string smeared with birdlime and stretched over the Celery plants might catch many of the parents. It will be a wise precaution to grow your Celery next year as far distant as possible from the site of the present crop. The Cobham or Pope’s Apple (J. Tliam).— The fruits you have sent nre of this fine variety, of which we seldom receive specimens. It is described as follows in the "Fruit Manual “ Fruit large, ovale, handsomely and regularly formed. Skin clear yellow, tinged with greenish patches, and strewed with dark dots ; on the side next the sun it is marked with a few faint streaks of crimson. Eye large and open, like that of the Blenheim Pippin, and set in a wide and plaited basin. Stalk short, deeply inserted in a round cavity, which is lined with rough russet. Flesh yellowish, tender, crisp, sugary, ami juicy, with a rich and excellent flavour. A very valuahle Apple either for the dessert or culinary purposes ; it is in use from November to March. This variety has a'l the properties of the Blenheim Pippin, and is much superior to it, keeps longer and has the great advantage of being an early and abundant bearer. An excellent dessert Apple, with somewhat of the flavour of Ribston Pippin. September to .Tanuarv. Dr. Hogg met with this excellent Apple in the neigh¬ bourhood of Sittingboume, in Kent, about the year 1842. The account he received of it was, that the original tree grew in the garden of a cottager of the name of Pope, at Cellar Hill, in the parish of Linstead near Sittingboume. It was highly prized by its owner, to whom the crop afforded a little income, and m'anv were the unsuccessful applications of his neighbours for grafts of what became generally known as Pope’s Apple. The proprietor of Pope’s cottage built a row of other dwellings adjoining, in the gardens of which there were no fruit trees, and, for the sake of uniformity, he cut down Pope’s Apple tree, not¬ withstanding the offer of twenty shillings a-year more rent to spare it. The tree being condemned, was cut down in 1846, at which period it was between fifty and sixty years old. The name of Cobham was given to it by Kirke the nurseryman at Brompton, by whom trees were distributed. Feeding Last Year’s Swarms (Lux').— Though the two stocks— last year’s swarms -which you have lately purchased are light, they are not in im¬ mediate want of food, and though b es do not eat much in the winter months, we advi-e you to begin feeding yours slowly— that is to say, give them small doses of syrup two or three times a week. This process is now called gentle stimulative feeding. If the weather remain mild, so that the bees can safely go abroad for water, the little food given will much assist the bees by causing them to breed. One pound of sugar made into good syrup will be ample for both hives weekly for at least a month. As the hives increase in strength and the bees in activity more food will be required. As the season advances the numerical strength of hives and the large cakes of brood that are built have to be considered in the administration of food, and it is always well to let the bees have enough In unpropitious weather, about the beginning of April, 1 lb. of syrup per hive per week is not more than enough. In early spring feed¬ ing it is important to keep hives warmly covered. Light Hives (K. B.).— As your hive3 are very light, and as breeding has begun you should begin at once to feed your bees. Give each hive weekly half a pound of sugar made into good syrup. At first let the syrup be slightly waimed in or.ler to tempt the bees to take it. By-and-by they will require more then half a pound per hive weekly . 83 COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— JANUARY 24TTI. Market very quiet, with short supplies generally. Vegetables only plentiful. FRUIT. 8. d. 8. d . 8. d. 8. d. Apples . i sieve 2 0 to 7 0 Grapes . 2 0 to 5 0 „ . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Lemons . 10 0 20 0 Apricots . doz. 0 0 0 0 Melons . 0 0 0 0 Cherries . 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Nectarines.. 0 0 0 0 Chestnuts . bushel 10 0 12 o 100 G o 10 C urrants, Black. . 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches .... 0 0 6 0 „ Red .... 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen i 0 2 0 Fins . dozen 0 6 1 0 dessert . . . i 0 2 0 Filberts . tt>. 0 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English tb. 1 6 2 0 Cobs . loom. 50 0 55 0 Raspberries . . \h . 0 0 0 o Gooseberries .... 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries lb. 0 0 0 0 VEGETABLES. 8 d. s. d. S. d. 8. d Artichokes . dozen 2 0to4 0 Lettuces .... l Otol 6 Asparagus . bundle 0 0 0 0 Mushrooms l 0 i 6 Beans, Kidney ... 100 i 0 0 0 Mustard & Cress .. punnet 0 2 0 3 Beet, Red . dozen i 0 2 0 Onions . 2 3 2 6 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 1 3 Parsley . doz. bunchf s 3 0 4 0 Brussels Sprouts. i sieve 1 6 2 0 Parsnips . . .. i 0 2 0 dozen 0 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 Capsicums . 100 i 6 2 0 Potatoes .. .. 6 0 7 0 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Kidney.... 6 0 8 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 S 0 Radishes. . . . doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Celery . bundle l 6 2 0 Rhubarb _ 0 4 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 5 0 4 0 Salsafy . 1 0 0 0 Cucumbers . . each i 6 2 0 Scorzonera 1 « 0 8 Kndive . . dozen 1 0 2 0 1 0 2 0 Fennel . bunch 0 3 0 0 Shallots . . .. . tb. 3 0 0 Garlic . lb. 0 6 0 0 Spinach .... 3 0 0 0 Herbs . . bunch 0 2 0 0 Tomatoes .. 0 8 1 0 Leeks . . bum h 0 3 0 4 Turnips .... 0 2 0 3 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. GOAT FARMING. ( C' out hived from page 63.) Having given details of the various species of Goats of foreign origin, as well as those which have been for many years common and acclimatised in the British Isles, we shall endeavour to lay before our readers a mode of proceeding which will be likely by judicious selection of animals for crossing to obtain what we require — viz., milk, meat, and mohair from the same type. If we refer to the capacity of the different breeds as we have given them, we shall find that no one breed at present existing possesses these requirements to the fullest extent. In consequence of this we are obliged to resort to crossing, and any person will see at a glance by attending the principal Goat exhibitions those stock animals which can by judiciously selecting and mating them enable us to secure in the future animals of various capacities which no one breed at present possess. Although the points have been named which we have deemed requisite for animals in the interest and profitable management for Goat farming, we shall, in order that a distinction may be made by the requirements of the amateur or suburban villa-farming objects, treat of these requirements separately, and refer first of all to cross-breeding for combining in one type of animals all three of the prominent and important points, objects, and capacities which will be required by Goat-farming companies, or by individuals in the business of Goat farming. It may take some years to obtain the objects we have in view, although it may be commenced by enthusiastic and persevering men and regardless of expense ; for it must be remembered that in the various breeds of sheep which have now an established type, such as the Oxford Down, the Shropshire Down, and the improved Hampshire i)jwd, were only obtained by judicious selection and mating of the animals ; but none of these weie so established as for ‘ like to beget like,” except under twenty years of careful breeding and selection. Therefore at the outset the breeders of Goats of a new type, and possessing such valuable characteristics as we have named, must not be too sanguine as to the period JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 84 [ January 25, 1883. within which they will obtain all that is required. Breeders must have a determination to overcome all difficulties, and our best encouragement will be found in following the example which has been so successful in the cross-breediDg of sheep, and which has given us some of the most valuable stock in England. Before we proceed farther let it be understood what we require in the Goat of the future, to afford us not only what we think necessary in production by the animal in milk, meat, and mohair, but also the objections in detail which we wish to avoid and exclude in the animal. First, we wish to exclude entirely the objectionable smell or odour which is found in some species. Nor do we require horns, for we can only consider these as required by the amateur, who may reasonably be pardoned for estimating them as a point in the beauty of the animal. As, however, we are now stating the objectionable points in a Goat required only for farming upon profitable and commercial principles, we shall endeavour to get rid of horns in the animal of the future, as they are by no means necessary or contributing to profit. It must, however, not be forgotten that in seeking to obtain good fleeces of mohair upon our milking animals, that some objection is taken to long-haired species, as it is said to be in the way in the act of milking ; but the hair, however long, may be shorn off near to the udder, so as to facilitate milking, whether done at the rear or flank. We cannot, therefore, allow a matter so easily overcome to impede our operations in the attempt to raise mohair upon animals which may be the best for producing both milk and meat. There is one question which must be carefully attended to, as it is quite clear from the statements we have made that no breed at present exists which offers all we require in the same type. We must therefore seek to produce it by crossing, for in making selection of the best milking variety we may take and choose from the best hornless English Goat, and also the Maltese or the Nubian breed may be selected if hornless animals can be found amongst them. Either of these breeds may do for crossing with the object of obtaining milk and meat. Now, without a name to the animal as to breed, we noted that at the Dairy Show in 1880 the first prize in the polled class was awarded to Mr. J. Arnold’s Brown Kate, carrying a splendid udder with long teats. This we consider a very good specimen of the kind we are seeking for to cross with Angora blood, which is the only animal from which it is likely we shall ever obtain a full fleece of mohair. But we are told by our experience in cross-breeding sheep that we can get rid of the horns peculiar to the Angora, if the same results are to be expected in the mating of Goats as with sheep, and we cer¬ tainly can see no reason why it should not be so. The chief difficulty, however, may be overcome in time by careful selection without doubt, for in sheep it is no matter whether a polled ram is mated with a horned Dorset ewe, or vice versa , for the result is the same — polled lambs are obtained as a rule. Our reason for stating these matters is to show the importance in other respects as to which of the sex we take for producing certain characteristics, for in this the object would be sure to be obtained almost, as a rule, based upon our well-known practice in cross-breeding — namely, that the female furnishes the internal formation and qualities, like milking and the constitution ; whilst the male is expected to furnish the outward form as well as colour and size. The chief benefit, it may be anticipated if the Goat progeny followed that of the sheep, is that we may expect to get rid of the horns after one or two generations, if not in the first cross, the produce of mohair would be surely inherited. There¬ fore the only difficulty which can arise would be doing away with the horns, which, if the horns occurred in the first cross o_ after¬ wards, they must be got rid of by careful weeding, time, and selection. We do not see any doubt but that our requirements would be obtained as regards milk and meat by selecting the best females for the purpose, and gradually by selection obtain the mohair skin and covering through the influence of the Angora ram, as this is the only source from which it can be derived. It is of great importance when it is known that a herd of females will yield 7 or 8 lbs. of mohair each, generally worth from 2s. M. to 3s. per lb., at the same time, too, where our sheep yield about the same weight of wool only worth from 10rZ. to 15d. per lb. The method to be pursued in cross-breeding must now be referred to, the details of which are of the most important nature, because in securing all the points which we require in the new type of animal which we wish to obtain, is only to be obtained by the Goat farmer who has the means and the opportunity in consequence of the numbers in the herd. The first object is to obtain maiden animals of two years old, for when the females have never bred to any other ram we may expect to secure the full influence of the ram which is used. We therefore propose, in case only one person should engage in the raising of new breed or type, that three selections should be made of females of five or six each of hornless animals from three or more breeds known to be of good milking and meat-making character, such as the best English, Nubian, and Maltese or others which the breeder may desire to try in this experiment, but at the same time select those having the longest hair, as in crossing these would nick better with the Angora ram so celebrated for the growth of mohair. Let each selection of females, five or six in number, form separate families with their produce, each having bred to three separate Angora rams, if possible obtained from different sources, yet each exhibiting fully the required character as to mohair. In these separate families we have an excellent opportunity for selecting for breeding purposes in the future from the offspring, and in mating the animals a change of blood can be secured without deviating from the cross of the object in view ; and if the offspring of each of these separate families are marked in the ear or other¬ wise it will prove of some consequence in the future in various ways, for it is necessary that all defective females or males in each family should be withdrawn, and that the best and most robust male animals only should be selected for use, keeping steadily in view the object to be attained. (To be continued.) WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — Wheat-sowing is still going on, so much land having been left unsown at the usual period in consequence of adverse weather, and, in fact, some which has lately been sown has been got in with the land in a better state than much which was done in the month of November and December. It is even now not too late to obtain a good crop of Wheat where the land works heavy ; but in case the weather should change to dry suddenly and the land work too light we should prefer to sow Oats, Barley, or drege, according to the nature of the soil and its condition as to fertility. We note, on referring to our work during this month, that in January, 1862, we had at this time just completed sowing Morton’s Red-strawed White Wheat, some of which sort we have sown this season, it being a good yielding sort, very stiff-strawed, and well adapted for late sowing in any of the eastern, south-eastern, or home counties, as we find that upon the mixed soils on the vale farms it gives grain of ex¬ cellent quality. The Wheat we have j ust referred to was sown during the latter part of December and first fortnight in January, being, after stubble Turnips, fed off by sheep eating oilcake and hay, and a heavy dressing of box manure applied in addition, the former crop having been Early White Canadian Oats ; and we have found for some years that Wheat, if sufficiently manured, succeeds well in this rota¬ tion, although sown in January, if the land is not too light. In fact, we have found that Wheat after Wheat, with stubble Turnips fed in the same way, with ample manuring, has also succeeded well. The only two points to be considered is heavy manuring and a favourable season for the summer growth. Carting dung to heap in readiness for Mangold and Potatoes has been continued at intervals when the plough was impeded, otherwise ploughing has been continued for land intended for early white Oats, and will when the time for sowing arrives most probably be found mellow and stale, so essential for their successful growth, as compared with recently ploughed land in the month of March. Hand Labour. — The employment for men will now be hedging, banking, trenching in the meadows, filling manures in process of carting to heap, also forking out couch grass and weeds from all the fallow surfaces, whether in fallow or on the root land, in which latter work the women will assist, and as the season proceeds this work will be continued on the land intended for Mangolds and Potatoes, early Peas or Beans, or on the Wheat stubbles intended for Oats, the ploughing following the forking of couch as fast as completed. Live Stock. — Sheep generally have not done so well as we could wish, the land being made heavy and cold by successive rains. Having recently stated the mode of feeding early lambs, we must now state the method of feeding and management of the ewes with lambs at side. Upon the vale farms when sheep are very dear, as they are now, we think it a good plan to separate the flock into two JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. January 25, 1883. ] 85 parts. Those which drop their lambs at the earliest period, say the first half of the flock, may be kept apart from the late-lambing ewes, so that the latter may be fed in a different manner, and kept in fair stock condition only, and eating roots off the land without cutting, with a fair allowance of hay, but no cake or corn ; but the lambs running in advance of the ewes should be kept in the best possible manner, as we have often described, in order that they may be ready for sale early, or continued on to make heavy weights as tegs. The ewes having been only fed for stock when the lambs are sold or weaned, as the case may be, will be found in excellent condition, and will, if properly managed, make first-class stock to hold over, and bring their lambs early in the next year, and from being acclimatised will prove better for themselves and lambs also than any which can be purchased at the fairs in the autumn. After being shorn and the rams turned amongst them they may be folded at night if well kept during the day on the best succulent food, such as rape and vetches, until they all prove in lamb, when moderate keep will be sufficient such as old lea, down, or hill pasture. In the case of the early-lambing half of the flock which had been purchased in the previous autumn, these should be fed with Mangold, or Carrots, or Swedish Turnips cut and placed in troughs mixed with cake meal and bean meal, being fed also with good sweet Clover hay three times a day, taking care, however, that they do not have too many cut roots given to waste. This should be regulated by the animals eating all the cut roots in admixture with cake before they leave their troughs, and the troughs turned upside down imme¬ diately afterwards, in order that they may be clean for the next feeding. It will then be carried out without waste of superior food, and when the lambs are sold the ewes, too, will be fit for the butcher at the same time, for we have sold the Dorset Down ewes at Easter (with lambs at side), weighing 14 stone of mutton when fed as we have described. The dairy cows are now in most cases out of profit and are forward in calf, in which case it is not ■well to keep them too high with cake or other extra food, for it frequently leads to inflam¬ mation of the udder and other difficulties at calving time. If the cows get a few of the large Drumhead Cabbages, and sweet oat straw daily it is the best food they can have after the milking period is passed and before they calve. We do not approve of cows running in the pastures during the wet weather, as their tread is very damaging to pastures. We advise if the animals are in calf that they have something like an hour’s exercise every day, but not to be allowed to remain out and be found shivering under some hedge or shelter they leave their droppings, which is lost. ABOUT A DORKING CHALLENGE CUP. On reading the article with regard to the above signed “ C.,” I thought at first something good might come of it, hut on reflection I could not determine where from. “ C.” points to the Game fowls, and says, “ See what a challenge cup has done for them ; ” hut of that presently. Supposing there were a challenge cup for Dorkings subscribed for. In the first place where are they P secondly, who should act as tbe judge ? To my mind certainly not those who have been so acting, for it is entirely to their want either of knowledge of the true bird or to timidness in the administration of their awards things are as they are. I do not intend to go largely into the matter, as it is not convenient for me to do so at the present time ; but I trust I may be able to show in a few words what I mean. In the Standard of Excellence, which was really a very, very good one, published many years ago by the then Poultry Club, after enumerating the many good points a Dorking should possess, it goes on to say, Disqualification “ legs any other except white,” and this is also put forward as a disqualification in the new Standard of Excellence sent by the present Poultry Club. Does the word “disqualification” mean anything or nothing? If the latter I have no rn< re to say. If the former, it means, I contend, that a bird hav ng those defects stands disqualified without any act on tin part of the judge ; in other words, it is “ out of Court,” and “ out of Court” for many a long year have often been the so-called D ukiugs, the owners of which have carried away the prizes, the same Dorkings having dark legs, dark spots in their legs, dark toes, &c. On one occasion I pointed out to my good kind old friend, the late Mr. Hewitt, that the first-prize had small stubs of feathers on its legs. “ Yes,” said he, “ but see what a large bird it is.” “But,” sad I, “it is not a true Dorking.” “Well,” said he, 11 they will have size, and Dorkings are not my forte.” I said no more. Again, I pointed out not long since a prize bird with dark legs to the judge. “I know it is wrornr,” said he, “ but where are we to get the old pure white ones ? They will have it so.” J only asked who are “ they.” I am always met with that word by judges, who are so called wrongly, but none have ever defined to me who “they ” are. It is always pushed on to someone else, some invisible unknown being. Why does not the judge speak out fairly, honestly, and openly, and say at once “ Others are doing wrong, and I am not strong enough to act up to the proper standard, and insist upon what is right?” Forgetful also is ho that he is doing an injustice by giving away prizes that should properly and truthfully belong to others, giving prizes to birds that stand even before he comes to judge them, Disqualified. There is no hope for the Dorking or any other breed of fowls or Pigeons arriving at the height of excellence under the present method (for I call it nothing else) of judging. A Dorking challenge cup would not help the Dorking breed one whit unless they are judged up to the tnie Dorking standard in all its entirety, which certainly is not the case now; hence the muddle and mongrelism that take the place of order and breed. At the commencement I said I would say something about the Game fowl challenge cup. What I would say is, that to my think¬ ing the falling-off is most lamentable. When I look back to the time when French’s Game cock won at Birmingham, and before it left the showyard sold for £100, and compare it with the long- legged, long-thighed, breastless present show bird, I cannot for one think “ change is progress.” It is said that as fighting days are over the Game fowl should not be what it was, yet the show Game fanciers talk a quantity of utter nonsense about length of reach, &c. Bah ! it makes sad one who has handled many a bird of the old type— a bird of beauty of form, beauty of colour, a representation of the Englishman for courage ; a bird for table purposes surpassed by none for flavour and fine tissue, not even the playmate of my childhood, the Dorking of world-wide renown. Look at him as he stands, the true old English Game cock, thick¬ set and sturdy, with the “ light of battle in his eye,” with his proud and haughty step. Even his very hens standing about seem to admire him as one would Adonis. Look at him in his bygone days, and look at what the challenge cup has brought him to. Look on this picture and then on that. I am not speaking of individual birds, but the show Game as a class. All must admit that the cup Black Red at Birmingham had his attractions, but a genius like that of Capt. Heaton’s refines and give lustre to all it touches. No, I for one am much obliged to “ C.” for his suggestion of a challenge cup for Dorkings, but cannot see that it would remove the present difficulty in any way. — Harrison Weir. POULTRY NOTES. This is of all others the time of year at which the management of our breeding stock is of importance if we are to have many and strong chickens. Starved or overfat fowls will not produce vigorous or healthy offspring. The latter is by far the most frequent fault. During the moult and autumn fogs much nourish¬ ment is necessary to make birds resist the cold and bear the strain on their system which the growth of fresh plumage entails. When this is over we are too apt to continue the same scale of diet to their great detriment. They are just now peculiarly liable to put on too much flesh, especially in such warm weather as we have lately had. Fanciers should beware of this, and look well that those who have charge of their stock do not continue the same bountiful diet that we have prescribed for the late autumn, but diminish it judiciously as the days lengthen and temperature rises. In another fortnight or three weeks all Pigeons may be mated ; it is now, therefore, high time to be putting the loft in order. Every removeable nest should be removed, thoroughly cleansed and disinfected. Much trouble from vermin in the summer may thus be obviated. No birds need now be disturbed by their quarters being turned out in a way which in the middle of the breeding season would cause disastrous alarm and confusion. Coops, too, which ought all to have been thus cleansed before being stowed away at the end of last chicken season should now be looked to and repaired. It is very bad economy to put broods into rotten or dilapidated abodes when a few shillings would make them warm and watertight. Tiie financial management of the first Buckingham Poultry and Pigeon Show, held last w'eck, might well be copied by managers of other shows who wish to make them popular. We know that in some cases cheques for the prize money must have been posted within tw’entv-four hours of the close of the Show. This prompti¬ tude is peculiarly satisfactory to young exhibitors ; we often hear of their surprise and disappointment at having to wait weeks for 86 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. { January 25, m 3. their winnings. We remember that the Hemel Hempstead Shows were soon distinguished for the same promptitude ; probably Mr. l’eel has imported the good custom to Buckingham. We have before us the schedule of a Poultry and Pigeon Show to be held at Hereford on February 15th. There are twenty classes for poultry, nearly all cock or hen ; this is not a good or satisfactory division. It is quite impossible for anyone to balance well between the merits of a cock and a hen. Pigeons also have twenty classes. Entries close on February 2nd, and the Hon. Sec. is Mr. E. G. Fluck, King Street, Hereford. Poultry Shows seem at present to prosper much in the western counties. Within two months there have been three great shows in the county of Somerset alone — Ilminster with 750 entries, Taunton over 1200, and this week Yeovil with, we believe, over 1600. We understand, too, that at Gloucester, held simultaneously, and with quite a modest schedule, there are 1000 entries. The Dorchester Committee have, we are informed, complied with the peremptory request of the Poultry Club, and are about to issue an amended prize list and pay all the prizes irregularly withheld. This is clear proof of the power which such a body as the Poultry Club has. Individuals by isolated action would never have been able to enforce this tardy act of justice. The Liverpool Show is advertised January 31st and February 1st. The classification is generally good, but the prizes are very small. As Pigeon fanciers we have always been strongly averse to Pigeon-shooting. The daily papers announce that the Princess of Wales has put herself at the head of an alliance of ladies, who have determined never to countenance by _their presence this so-called “ sport.” _ There has lately been much grumbling about the appointment of extra judges at certain shows, whose names were not advertised in the schedule. It is impossible for a committee who project a show to calculate beforehand the number of entries. A judge who can take three hundred pens well cannot do justice to eight hundred. At the same time we advise the insertion in every schedule of a saving clause, allowing the appointment of extra judges if necessary, and their names should if possible always be announced in the poultry papers before the opening of the show. — C. THE POULTRY CLUB. A meeting of the Committee of the Poultry Club was held at the Charing Cross Hotel on Wednesday, January 17th, at 2 p.m. There were present Mr. S. Lucas (in the chair), the Earl of Winterton, and Messrs. T. W. Anns, G. B. C. Breeze, R. A. Boissier, A. Comyns, T. C. Lawson, Rev. E. H. Morgan, and C. F. Montrhsor. Election or Officers and Committeemen. — The Secretary reported that he had issued voting papers for the annual election, and that the following was the result of the voting : — President : Mr. S. Lucas, 40 votes. Secretary : Mr. A. Comyns, 45. Committeemen : Mr. O. E. Cresswell,41 ; Mr. L. Norris, 40 ; Mr. T. W. Anns, 39 ; Viscount Grimston, 38; Mr. G. Vigers, 30; Mr. G. H. Wood, 30; Mr. T. C. Lawson, 28 ; Mr. R. E. Horsfall, 21 ; Rev. E. H. Morgan, 20 ; Rev. H. C. Fellowes, 15 ; and that accordingly all the gentlemen named, with the exception of the Rev. H. C. Fellowes, had been duly elected. The Committee examined the voting papers and directed that the Secretary’s report be confirmed. The new President, Mr. S. Lucas, took the opportunity to thank the members for the honour they had conferred upon him in electing him President of the Club, and said he should endeavour at all times to fulfil the duties of that office to the best of his ability. New Member. — The following new Associate was elected : — E. T. Gardom, Longford, Gloucester. Dorchester Show. — The Secretary read some further corre¬ spondence with the Chairman of the Dorset County Poultry and Pigeon Society, from which it appeared that the Dorchester Show Committee had decided to adopt the suggestion of the Poultry Club Committee and pay the prizes as offered in the schedule, in all cases other than those in which the prizes had been withheld for want of merit. The folio wing is the amended prize list : — CREVI5 Cosurs.— I, J. T. Calvert ; 2, R. It. Fowler & Co. Hamburghs. — Silver-pencilled . — 1, J. Raw nsley ; 2, H. Beldon ; S, F. Jagger h.c., H. Pickles. Golden-spangled. — 1, H. Eeltlon ; 2. J. Rawnsley ; 3, R. W. Brace- well ; h.c., H. Pickles. Silver-spangled. — 1, H. Beldjn ; 2, H. Pickles; equal for 3, F. Jagger and J. Rawnsley. Malays.— 1, Rev. A. G. Brooke. Leghorns. — White. — 1, Brierley and Smith ; equal for 2 and 3, A. C. Bradbury and R. R. Fowler & Co. Any other Variety. — ' , Mrs. Muir ; 2, Hon. and Rev. F. G. Dutton ; equal for 3, J. T. Calvert and R. R. Fowler & Co. DUCKS. — Mandarin or Carolina. — 1, E. A. Boutcher ; 2, Mrs. S. M. Pratt ; equal for 3, C. F. Williams, A. Whitehead, and S. Wade. SELLING Class.— Cocks.— G. H. Wood ; 2, C. Blood worth ; 3, W. Street. Standard of Perfection. — The publication of the new Standard was further discussed. Mr. A. Comyns was appointed Editor, and the following gentlemen were requested to act as an editing Com¬ mittee — namely, the Earl of Winterton and Messrs. T. W. Anns, G. B. C. Breeze, R. A. Boissier, O. E. Cresswell, S. Lucas, and L. Norris. Shows under Club Rules. — The Secretary reported that the Belfast, Buckingham, Hednesford, and Gosforth Shows were to be held under Club rules. Subscriptions were granted in aid of the funds of the first three of these shows. Dates of Meetings. — The following dates were fixed as those on which meetings of the Committee shall be held, subject to any alteration which the Secretary may think necessary : — At the Charing Cross Hotel at 2 P.M. on Fridays, February 9th, March 9th, April 13th, May 11th, June 8th, July 13th, and August 10th ; and on the second days at the Dairy Show, Birmingham Show, and the Crystal Palace Show. — Alex. Comyns, lion. Sec., 47, Chancery Lane, London, W.C. OUR LETTER BOX. Parasites on Pigeons (J. A.).— Lice infest the bodies of the birds, breed¬ ing among the feathers, mostly about the head and neck, but also running all over the body. These usually attack sick or delicate individuals ; and they may almost be considered as constitutional with some. They are verj annoy¬ ing to the birds, keeping them in low condition, and retarding their recovery. A little powdered sulphur dusted in among the feathers is a good remedy. Cleanliness and good condition are the best preventives. Lime Water for Fowls ( D . D.).— This is beneficial for an occasional drink to fowls, as it is a preventive of diseases, and assists the formation of bone and eggs. Prepare as follows : — Pour over quicklime some warm water, and when the lime is slaked and settled draw oil the clear liquid, which can be kept for a considerable time. The lime will be useful for whitewash. Fowls Suffering from Cramp ( Eccles ). — The sudden change of weather from extreme drought to constant damp and heavy rains, may account for much of the cramp you complain of. It is, however, more often caused by imjn-oper flooring for their roosting-places, such as stone, brick, or boarding. If you have either of these remove it ; if you cannot do that, cover it some inches deep with dry gravel. If you have no gravel, get that which is most like it. Road grit is an excellent substitute. Onions are very good for Turkeys. Stimulants, such as strong beer, a mixture of bean, pea, and barley meal slaked with beer is good food. The chickens will rally by having bread steeped in it. The present weather will necessitate generous feeding. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 32’ 40" N. ; Long. 0° 8 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. DATE. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. 1SS3. ?3_ Hygrome- P . . £ -M CL— O Shade Tern- Radiation d po o o £ 4-> 'Si > ter. Direct! olWini perature. Temperature. C3 « January. c3 ^ Dry. Wet. rH fH Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Sun. 14 Inches. 29.576 deg. 30.9 deg. 36.3 E.X.E. dee. 40.2 deg 46.1 deg. 33.7 deg. 46.4 deg. 29.8 In. 0.175 Mon. 15 29.38.5 41.9 41.2 W. 40.6 48.3 36.1 59.4 30.8 0.310 Tnes. 10 29.725 37.4 36.7 N.N.W. 40 8 45.8 86.2 65.7 32.2 0.019 Wed. 17 30.147 43.2 42.6 S.W. 40.1 48.2 31.8 50 8 26.0 0.'29 Thurs. IS 30167 50.0 48.3 S.W. 41.5 51.3 42.1 52.6 40.8 0.068 Friday 19 30.333 40.1 40.1 S.E. 42.6 51.0 38.0 50.4 35.1 0.088 Satur. 20 30.249 48.3 47.7 w. 43.2 51.3 39.5 56.9 38.1 — 29.940 42.5 41.9 41.3 48.9 86.8 54.6 33.3 0.63d REMARKS. 14th.— Damp, misty, and dull. 15th. — Dull at first; fine day with sunshine; solar halo at 1 P.M. ; heavy rain in evening. 10th. — Dull morning ; sunshine in middle of day ; misty evening. 17th. — Rain at first, dull and damp throughout. 18th. — Dull, with rain all the morning ; fine in evening. 1 9th. — Foggy morning ; slight rain after 11 A.M. ; fine evening. 20tb. — Dull and damp. Maxima considerably above those of the previous week, and mean temperature also higher and above the average. Much dull damp weather, although the barometer has been high. — G. J. SYMONS. ( February 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 87 1st1! 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th 7 th Tn F S SUN M Tu W Royal Society at 4.S0 P.M. Linnean Society at 8 P.:,r. Quinquagesima. Society of Arts at 8 P.M. than calculated envy and here remark that nothing is more THOUGHTS ON GARDENING AND GARDENERS. ry* ?T is often remarked that much good comes from people seeing themselves as others see them. I would in the following lines endeavour as a follower of the art of gardening to see myself and fellow men who are connected with it in a light that I hope will show some of our shortcomings, while at the same time displaying some good qualities. I may to degrade the gardening profession malice displayed to horticultural brethren who may prove more fortunate or more skil¬ ful in their work. Let there be no such feeling existing, and gardening is at once relieved from a blot that unfortunately it has not always been free from. In the pursuit of gardening no trace of jealousy or evil speaking should he found, and then a more perfect union of the brethren could he attained, a more perfect sympathy with each other he aroused, and gardening he made more pleasant to all concerned. From time immemorial the gardener has plied his trade, and in these days of ours has reached such an eminence that a large amount of literary skill and publishing enter¬ prise is devoted to chronicling his sayings and doings, and in keeping him up to the times in what is going- on in the horticultural world around him. I would like to call the attention of all young men who may he just entering on their course as gar¬ deners to the great difficulties that lie before them in their career, at least if they wish to become com¬ petent in their profession. Gardening requires a man to he thoroughly in earnest. He must devote every moment he has to the study and practice of his calling ; he must be a close and attentive observer of Nature and her wants ; he must be able to grapple with many difficulties, and by assiduous endeavours seek to com¬ prehend the varied details in connection with the multitudinous subjects that come under his notice and require his attention. I would like to impress upon all young men who are thinking of following or are following gardening that they must resist the temptations of the bothy system, where they are exposed in many cases to inducements to become frequenters of public houses, card players, or to staying out late at night, engaging in foolish sports, and a course of conduct that can never make a man master of a pursuit that needs undivided atten¬ tion. Far be it from me to say that such conduct is common among young gardeners ; still I know that sometimes such is the case, and I would therefore warn all who care to read what I say, that such conduct is incompatible with the earnestness in gardening. The spare time of young gardeners cannot be more profitably spent than in improving themselves by observation and study — observation of all that is going on around them, so that they can be deducing lessons that will benefit them in the future from the opera¬ tions of the present ; study of every book and paper obtainable connected with their profession, also study of any and every branch of education that can benefit them in any way in after life. It is a great mistake for young men to rest content with what little learning they may have attained at school. What they have learnt there should but be con¬ sidered a stepping-stone to something better, and no effort should be spared to improve what has simply been begun in youth. No man needs such a diversi¬ fied education as a gardener if he seeks to attain to eminence in his business. Does he not need Latin to enable him to master the names of the plants he is called upon to grow ? Does he not require a knowledge of landscape gardening, of the arrangement of colour, of geometry, of arithmetic, of composition ? Should he not be a good penman and able to keep accounts ? Should he not have some knowledge of chemistry to enable him to provide suitable composts and maintain certain conditions of soil, air, and water suitable to his many subjects ? Should he not know something of mechanics and natural philosophy, of the theory of ventilation, of the science of botany, of natural history, and other subjects numerous and varied, and which, when all put together, form a list quite formidable enough to frighten any young man, but which are, nevertheless, of untold benefit to any who desire a good position in the gardening world ? Are there not some men who take to gardening and fail entirely to perceive that many of such branches of knowledge as I have mentioned are requisite for their success in life ? And above all a gardener should be— as I am glad to say in many cases he is — a gentleman, I mean a gentleman in the truest and best sense of the word. When such a man is met with, one who has devoted his time to an intelligent study of everything connected with his profession, who is able clearly and pleasantly to discourse on subjects bearing on his calling, mark him well ! He has not attained such a position without a hard struggle, many an hour spent in study and observation, and much self-denial and discipline. Let such a man be the model for all young gardeners to copy, and gardening will become more and more appreciated as a calling which requires men of no mean ability, no mean education, and no mean power of self-control and self-discipline to master the difficulties attending its successful pursuit. I say, then, to all young gardeners, Be up and doing. Do not let the pleasures of thoughtless youth be yours. Do not rest content to be mere cyphers in the gardening world. Strive assiduously to rise to distinc¬ tion, and if you fail to reach the highest position in the realm of gardening, let it not be through any want of endeavour on your part : if you cannot com¬ mand success, at least deserve it. No one will be the worse of trying to master everything connected with his jirofession. The time will be well spent, and if at the end of life’s journey the highest position in the gardening world has not been theirs, no regrets for No. 136.— Vol. VI. Third Series. No. 1792.— Vol. LXIX., Old Series. 88 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t February i, ms time misspent will arise to trouble them ; and if they have above everything else remembered and sought after that “good part that shall not be taken away,” then indeed happy are they. — Excelsior. GESNERIA CINNABARINA. For a number of years I was in the habit of growing several varieties of Gesnerias, but the above proving to be the most pleasing both to my employers and myself, the rest were dis¬ carded to make more room for it. I have often wondered why these showy useful plants are not more generally culti¬ vated, considering that they bloom in such profusion at a time of year when flowers are very acceptable. A cool stove here, at the present time and for several weeks past, has been ex¬ ceedingly bright with them. I offer a few remarks on their culture as followed by myself, and which has for several years proved very satisfactory. As soon as the plants have flowered they are removed to an intermediate house, and the supply of water is diminished until the foliage is withered ; they are then placed in a rather cool position, and never are allowed to become dust-dry. They remain there until the last week in May or the first week in June, when they are shaken out, and the tubers are placed in pots, one tuber in a 60-sized pot, and three in a 48. The soil used at this first potting is composed of loam, leaf soil, and sand. If the soil is at all damp no water is given for at least a week. The pots are then placed on coal ashes in a cold frame — which is kept close — on a north border. Under this cool treatment the growths come very strong, and when half an inch long they are at once taken to the intermediate house, which at this time is occupied with Melons and Cucumbers, and they afford a shade for the young Gesnerias. It is sur¬ prising what progress they make at this time, and are soon ready for the shift into their flowering pots. The soil in which the plants are to bloom is made richer by adding well-decayed manure, and is used in a tolerably rough state, as I find a porous soil is the most suitable. They do not like bright hot sun, so this is guarded against by pro¬ viding a shady position. Thrips and mealy bug are their worst enemies, but good daily sj'ringings keep them free from both. As soon as the pots are full of roots and the flower spikes begin to appear weak liquid manure is applied twice a week. The weak points of this plant are — first, that it is little or no use for cut blooms ; nor will the plants do for room-deco- tion, especially when gas is burnt, as in either case the bloom falls quickly, but for a cool stove or warm conservatory well- grown plants have few others to equal them, and none to excel in their season. — W. W. B. GARDEN STRUCTURES AND VENTILATION. I AM always interested in any communication that practical men or gardeners make on ihese subjects, as an authoritative guide is greatly needed to point out what is right amidst the maze of applications for, and instructions how to build, glass houses that are received from ladies, gentlemen, and gardeners. “ R. P. B.” has missed a grand opportunity of enlightening us on this matter (page 21). He speaks of seeing a range of houses built within two years, in not one house of which plants would grow ; of others in which Orchids, Eucharises, and Pelargoniums would not grow ; but since new structures have been erected no difficulty is experienced. How easy for him, and how useful to others, would it have been to describe the faults of the bad houses and the merits of the good ones. In nine cases out of ten it is the gardener who is consulted as to the erection of the houses, their height, width, pitch, and mode of ventilation, and few professed horticultural builders would commence building without knowing the gardener’s wishes on these points. Why, then, so many failures ? Is it tha most gardeners do not really know vdiat is the best kind of house, and go on in old grooves, asking for the old style of fifty years ago, because they are puzzled with the many patent glazing systems ? I have before me letters from gardeners — ■ one wanting a vinery with heights which make the roof an angle of 25°, another for Cucumber house at 70° ; another insists on 6-feet front for 12-feet-wide lean-to against 12-feet wall, and refuses a 3-feet front and 13 feet wide, with steeper pitch and 2 feet longer rafter, though it is exclusively for Vines, and the cost is much less than his idea, the expense of which is too great. A common cause of failure is such a one as I was recently called to. A gentleman employed a local man (who dubbed himself a horticultural builder because he had made two Melon boxes for the clergyman and repaired his greenhouse) to build him some greenhouses. After three months one was erected and a new gardener engaged, who found it faced N.E. The other two houses were then arranged at right angles to face S.E. ; but the gentleman insisted on the fronts being heavily ornamented and 7 feet high with an almost equal-sided span- roof to save building a high wall, and these wrere to be vinery and Peach house, the credit of building which for this purpose would afterwards be given to the horticultural builder from London. Returning, however, to “ R. P. B.’s ” article, he says that “ a Peach house as a lean-to should not be less than 18 feet wide,” but does not state the height. Now, if the majority of gardeners are to be relied on, a steep pitch of 50° to 60° is the proper one for Peaches, and such a width would thus require a wall over 20 feet high. Vineries are of en made 15 to 18 feet wide, and the finest crop I have seen for many years was in a house 21 feet wide with 30- feet rafters erected nearly fifty years ago ; but old walls suitable for such structures are very rare, and it is still rarer for new walls to be built as high as 15 feet even. As to construction, I would observe that the replacing of the woodwork when it does give way (which ought not to be for an ordinary lifetime if the erection is “ nearly indestruc¬ tible ”), and the taking-out of glass bedded in good putty, will not be such an easy matter as “ R. P. B.” seems to think. One word on the reference to glass, as it will cause many to suppose that Belgian is equal to English. Belgian glass of seconds quality is not equal in appearance to thirds English, nor so free from blemishes and bubbles that burn the foliage. Its so-called weight of 21 ozs. to the square foot rarely exceeds 18 ozs. ; its colour is bad, and it is so brittle that a 21-oz. Belgian pane is often broken with a force that tough 15-oz. English will resist. “ J. J.,” on the following page, refers also to a most im¬ portant, question, that of the right amount of ventilation. Not being a gardener I cannot advise as to time for, or extent of, opening the ventilators in different houses, but from observa¬ tion I am quite convinced that many are radically wrong in their method of giving air. Early one bitterly cold day in November I was in Yorkshire, after having travelled all night, to see some gardens. The gardener had met me at the station about 6.30 a.m., and we went into a house to show me the kind of structure he wanted. I remarked that it seemed “ stuffy,” and observed all the laps of glass were puttied up. He said, “ Oh ! we have not opened the ventilators yet,” and instantly did so, temperature outside being 34°, and inside 65°. He did not require it above 55°, and could easily have kept it above that with all laps clear, as they should be to keep up an insensible circulation the whole night through. If these had been clear there would be no need for admitting air at 30° lower in order to reduce the temperature 10°, and there would have been no “ stuffiness.” The chief use of ventilators, I take it, are in summer or with the sun shining, when the temperature under glass increases so rapidly ; in winter the laps of glass, with an occasional opening of lights for an inch or two, should suffice. Some will tell me, as the gardener above did, I do not know the requirements of plants, and that you cannot fumigate with open laps of glass, but I fancy that many of the causes for fumigating would be removed by a more con¬ stant circulation of air. Radiation of heat from hot-water pipes will not of itself produce this without means of inlet and outlet for air. There are fixed rules for judging the best flowers or fruits, there are elections as to best Roses, Apples, <£c. ; coidd there not be instituted a fruit-house and a plant-house election, or some general rules for the erection and ventilating such houses ? Many of our best gardeners send in reports annually of the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. February 1, 1883. ] fruit crops, &c., at a time when they are very busily occupied ; hut the present is a comparatively slack season, and if these gentlemen would give their experience briefly in a tabulated form as to best early vinery, its internal width, heights back and front so as to get pitch of roof, method of ventilating, size of glass, &c., with remarks as to whether late vinery should be flatter or steeper, there would be some data for others not so experienced to work from. Similar tables as to the best width and form of plant houses, forcing houses, &c., would be equally useful. It is easy to calculate how best to catch the sun’s rays on an average, or to secure the greatest benefit at any particular month of the year, but this is not all that is requisite to know to secure successful results. For instance, an angle of 40° to 45° is the most favourable for receiving the sun’s rays at a right angle for the best part of the year, yet houses requiring most heat for forcing or for tropical plants are not built at that pitch ; on the contrary, as a rule they are so fiat that the sun’s rays can never strike them at a right angle. There are some reasons for this general selection of a flat roof, though not very forcible ones in many cases, and I usually do as I am bid if my suggestions are not approved of, though in many cases I know the structure is not the best for its purpose. As “ R. P. B.” says in his opening sentence, “ the part which glass houses [and their heating] play in the success or non-success of gar¬ deners has never been taken fairly into account in estimating results ; ” if it had the Royal Horticultural Society would have compiled tables and given useful advice as to the best forms and construction of these, the largest often and most expensive portion of the furnishing of a good garden. — B. W. Warhurst. CHRYSANTHEMUMS AS CUT FLOWERS. Growers of large blooms of Chrysanthemums suitable for ex¬ hibition purposes are very apt to write disparagingly of the grower who devotes his time and attention to such plants and varieties that will yield the greatest supply of flowers most suitable for cutting. What analogy can there be between a bunch of Grapes and a Chrysanthemum ? And although a gigantic bunch ©f the former is noble and striking in appearance, it is questionable if it is as serviceable to those who have to supply the constant de¬ mands of a family as a number of smaller bunches. The same may be said of large flowers of any of the sections of Chrysanthe¬ mums, which are individually beautiful where they can be em¬ ployed singly in specimen glasses, in which their real beauty can be displayed to advantage. I have not one word to urge against the cultivation of large blooms, but where light and artistic ar¬ rangements are daily in demand these large blooms are useless. In this case what an advantage would a gardener reap in growing large flowers, say from one to three upon each plant, simply be¬ cause they please a section of the Chrysanthemum-loving public, and thus be no service to him other than to make heavy formal arrangements instead of having them light and elegant? The re¬ quirements of gardeners differ widely, and the man who wants abundance of flowers suitable for cutting will not long devote his time and attention to the production of material unsuitable for his purpose. Those who grow for “cutting ” do not find one or two flowers on a plant, say of Elaine, as useful and satisfactory as has many hundreds, and every flower suitable for the purpose for which they are grown. The demand upon gardeners at the present day for cut flowers is one of the main reasons why they do not produce a few “ fine flowers ” in preference to basketfuls of those suitable for “ cutting.” What gardeners want who have flowers to provide is a dozen or score of good free-branching varieties and in quantity, and not 150 varieties or more, and one or two plants of each. I think there is equally as much credit due to the grower who produces plants suitable for decoration and cutting in a high state of per¬ fection as to the man who grows one or two fine flowers on a plant suitable for exhibition. I grow about five hundred plants, some with large flowers, but now the majority otherwise, and should therefore be in a position to know which of the two are the most serviceable for those gar¬ deners situated similar to myself. — Incognita. RIBES SPECIOSUM. IIibes SANGUINEUM and its varieties are well-known ornaments of our gardens, but the species of which a spray is shown in the woodcut (fig. 21) is by no means so common ; yet though some¬ 89 what less showy than the other, it has sufficient attractions to recommend it to all who regard flowering deciduous shrubs with favour. The flowers are bright red, both in form and colour being suggestive of some of the small-flowered species of Fuchsia. They are borne three or four together on short peduncles, and are slightly pendulous, thickly clothing the branches, which have bright green Gooseberry-like leaves and abundance of rather formidable spines. It is a native of California, and is said to be also found in Mexico. Seeds were first sent to this country in 1828. Respecting its name Professor Lindsay wrote as follows in the “Botanical Register” in 1833 : “By the late Sir James Smith this plant was called Ribes stamineum, that learned botanist not having discovered in 1819 that it had been described in a well- known English work in 1814 under the name of R. speciosum, an Pig. 21.— Ribes stamineum. oversight not confined to this species alone, but connected with others of the same nature, which form part of one of his communi¬ cations to the Encyclopaedia of Dr. Rees. It is not surprising that these errors should have been copied by M. Berlandier in De Candolle's ‘ Prodromus.’ ” PINE APPLE CULTURE. Under the signature “ J. ” in the Journal of Horticulture of December 28th, 1882, are some encouraging remarks on Pine¬ growing. I have a friend who has a small hothouse, with bottom heat in a large bed, heated by a flue. I should be glad if your correspondent could give me a few simple rules — heat required, time of planting crowns, compost to be used, and any other hints that may be considered fitting. — C. E. P. [In reply to the above note it will be well for the inexperienced to procure Mr. Thomson’s book on the Tine, which is very valuable for aiding anyone commencing to grow this fruit. I may, how¬ ever, try to give a few notes of what I have found a successful mode of treating Pines. In regard to the propagation, suckers are generally preferred to crowns. I have found suckers do better 90 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t February i, mbs. than crowns, and generally only used the latter in cases where the former were not plentiful. It often happens that the fruits are sent where the crowns cannot be got back for propagation, so we may say that suckers form the principal means of propagation. If they can be obtained they may be potted from this time on to September, or even later. When I had good suckers they were invariably taken off and potted, no matter what time of the year it was. Suppose a lot obtained in February, they should be potted in G or 7-inch pots, well drained, and potted firmly in rather light fibry loam ; no bones need be added till the fiual potting. If the soil is moderately moist no water need be given till there are signs of rooting, and then only with great care ; when watered giving a good soaking, but not repeating the dose till the soil is again becoming dry, but not dust-dry. Many suckers are spoilt by overwatering/ When potted the suckers should be plunged in either tan, leaves, cocoa-fibre refuse, or sawdust ; any of these materials will do. Bottom heat should not exceed 85° ; if the bottom-heat thermometer shows more than that temperature the pots should be loosened in the bed, thus allowing some of the heat to escape. When plenty of roots are seen at the outside of the ball of soil the suckers should be shifted into their fruiting pots, which need not be more than 11-inch. Some growers give them two shifts, but I have found this unnecessary. This time the same kind of loam should be used, with the addition of a good sprinkling of fine bones. I have found them act quicker than larger pieces ; and when twelve months is about the time that strong plants require to occupy their fruiting pots, the advantage of giving them what they can obtain most benefit from in that period is obvious. In potting, at least an inch of space should be left for watering, as when done it should be a good soaking. No water should be given after shifting till the new soil has a good number of roots in it. The bottom heat should be kept at j from 80° to S5° — a genial temperature maintained in the house, ; allowing it to run up to 85° in the daytime with sun, and keeping the night temperature about G5°. If the temperature is about 70° at the close of daylight it will be quite sufficient. Syringing and damping-down must be attended to, but by all means avoid a stagnant atmosphere ; admit a little air whenever such can be done ; examining the plants for those that are showing signs of fruit, selecting them and placing them where they can be pushed along as required occasionally. If only one house is devoted to Pines this selecting should still be practised, as it is much better to have all the fruiting plants together. When the fruits are ap¬ proaching maturity syringing and damping must be discontinued, and watering also. When the latter is practised after the ripen¬ ing stage has begun the fruits are sometimes found bad in the centre. During winter those plants intended to start about January or February should be rested for a couple of months — November and December. The temperature need not be more than 65° by day, and as low as 55° by night. All temperatures and the amount of moisture maintained in Pine stoves must be regulated by the out¬ side conditions. No hard-and-fast rule can be laid down. When the weather is cold and dull a correspondingly low temperature and drier condition of the house should be preserved. These and other things can only be learned by observation and attention. A steaming atmosphere and great fire heat in dull cold weather are to be avoided. The Queen is the best for fruiting during the summer. Smooth Cayenne is best for a winter supply. Black Jamaica is a good variety for winter, possessing a fine flavour. Charlotte Rothschild has proved good both in winter and summer. Where only one house is devoted to Pine-growing it will be extremely difficult to maintain a succession of fruiting plants ; still, by potting suckers at different times, and selecting the most forward for the warmest end of the house — should there be such — much can be done to forward some, and when approaching maturity much can be done to retard, if such is desired, by removing to a cool house or any other cool place. The extensive grower does not need so many makeshifts when he has his sucker-pit, his succession and fruiting houses. Extra good suckers well cared for can be made to pro¬ duce fruit in about twelve months, but more ordinarily it is from fifteen to eighteen months. Old stumps of such a kind as the Smooth Cayenne, which does not show suckers freely, should be plunged among sawdust or fibre in a good bottom heat, when a good supply of suckers can generally be obtained, which can be potted as required. Pines are sometimes subject to scale and mealy bug. Never having been much troubled with either of these pests on Pines, I cannot from experience recommend a cure, but there are several receipts given by others for the eradication of these pests. Finally Pine-growing is simple enough when certain conditions are main¬ tained, keeping up a continuous succession of fruit being one of the most difficult matters, as conditions of weather often upset the most careful calculations, and sometimes hasten when such is not wanted, in other cases retard when that is not desired. Overwatering, overpotting, overcrowding, overstewing, and overshading are all to be guarded against. Indeed, shading has been very seldom practised by me, and then only with newly potted plants. Liquid manure in the form of guano water should be used when the plants have rooted well in their fruiting pots ; of course in a weak condition, as when strong, the roots suffer. When the plants are resting during the winter two months may elapse before they need water, and when given the soil should be stirred up, and firmed round the edges of the pots, as it sometimes shrinks from the sides, when the water would simply round down without wetting the ball at all. There are numerous other matters which might be descanted upon, but enough has been said, 1 trust, to enable anyone about to start Pine-growing to comprehend the requirements. — J.] THE COLOURS OF FLOWERS. ( Continued from page 55.) The foregoing observations and facts adduced are sufficient to prove that, with a few exceptions that can scarcely be said to in¬ validate the general rule, Decandolle’s opinion was not so erro¬ neous as at first sight might appear to be the case. The subject is, however, an interesting one, and we may pursue it a little farther with soms advantage, commencing with a few COLOUR STATISTICS In the following remarks it must be borne in mind that, though pointing to some curious facts, they have no direct bearing upon that portion of the subject already discussed. The previous ob¬ servations chiefly had reference only to the changeability of species individually, but we may now consider the relative pro¬ portion of colours in different genera. Of course these can only be regarded as groups of allied species, of similar value to the larger groups of tribes, sub-orders, and orders under which plants are arranged, and it is to this circumstance that the bearing of the facts here named is quite different Jrom those first advanced. I have carefully examined the majority of the cultivated species (nearly three thousand) included in 2-10 genera, distributed over the whole vegetable kingdom, and as a result I have obtained the following numbers, indicating the relative proportion of colours, which may be taken as fairly representative of the general charac¬ teristics, as the largest and most distinct genera possessing coloured flowers have been selected for the purpose. Of the 210 genera, 39 include species bearing blue and yellow flowers, 57 have purple and yellow-flowered species, 26 have blue but no yellow-flowered species, 28 purple without yellow, 105 yellow without blue ; but as the latter includes the 57 purple and yellow-flowered genera, there are only 50 genera with yellow flowers, but without blue or purple. Thus there are 96 genera comprising blue aud yellow tints, and 124 in which either is exclusive of the other, the remain¬ ing 20 containing neither colour. In reference to the large num¬ ber in which there is a combination of colours, it must, however, be observed that of the 1626 species comprised in the 39 genera possessing blue and yellow flowers, 981 are blue-flowered species, and only 221 yellow-flowered — an extraordinary difference, and upon which some remarks will be offered later on. Red (includ¬ ing scarlet, rose, and pink) and white are comparatively evenly spread over the two series ; but the former appears to be more frequent in the xanthic, and white in the cyanic groups, though the latter occurs in nearly all the larger genera. In regard to the comparative proportion of colours several observers have recorded some curious results, but the most striking are those given by Kohler and Schubler, who examined four thousand species in twenty-seven natural orders, and ascer¬ tained that 1193 had white flowers, 957 yellow, 923 red, 594 blue, 307 violet, 153 green, five orange, and eight nearly black. It has also been remarked that amongst five hundred members of the Rose family blue is not found, nor yet in the 1300 Myrtle allies, whilst red is unknown in the five hundred Campanulaceous plants, excluding varieties obtained in cultivation, f urther attention will be devoted to these peculiar facts when discussing the merits and defects of the latest dissertation upon the colours of flowers — viz., HR. GRANT ALLEN’S THEORY. Any consideration of the facts bearing upon the changeableness of colours and the laws determining their combinations in flowers would be incomplete without some reference to the theory re¬ cently advanced by Mr. Grant Allen first in the Cornhill Magazine, February i, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 91 and subsequently at greater length in Nature. He divides the subject into five parts, under the heads — 1, Origin of Petals; 2, General Law of Progressive Colouration ; 3, Variegation ; 4, Re¬ lapse and Retrogression ; 5, Degeneration ; and under these heads a large number of interesting facts are discussed most ably, and afford abundant matter for reflection upon a curious and perplex¬ ing subject. The following is a general outline of his argument and the facts by which it is supported. First, the petals of flowers are considered to be metamorphosed stamens “ which have been set apart for the special work of attracting insects ; ” and “as the stamens of almost all flowers, certainly of all the oldest and simplest flowers, are yellow, it would seem naturally to follow that the earliest petals should be yellow too.” This tran¬ sition of form and function is illustrate 1 by reference to the Nymphaeas, Roses, Mesembryanthemuma, Orchids, and other cases in which it is found the stamens are converted into petals or organs serving a similar purpose. Under the second head — “ The Law of Progressive Colouration ” — a mass of facts are advanced, and the following conclusions are arrived at — namely, 1, “Most of the very simplest flowers are yellow,” the simplest flowers being described as those in which there is little or no irregularity or combination of petals, stamens, or carpels. 2, “ Many of the simpler flowers in each family (except the highest) are apt to be yellow ; ” highest here meaning those in which the greatest modi¬ fications occur. 3, “ The more advanced members of very single families are usually white or pink.” 4, “ The simpler members of slightly advanced families are usually white or pink.” 5, “ The most advanced members of all families are usually red, purple, or blue.” G, “ Almost all the members of the most advanced families are purple or blue.” 7, “ The most advanced members of the most advanced families are almost always blue, unless spotted or variegated.” It will thus be seen that Mr. Grant Allen attributes the range of colours found in flowers to their different stages of modification, commencing with yellow in the most simple, and advancing to blue in those that have been greatly changed by cross-fertilisation due to insect aid, especially bees, which, according to Sir John Lubbock, have a great preference for blue and purple shades. Before discussing the evidence on this point it may be well to mention that under the head “ Varie¬ gation ” are considered a number of apparent exceptions to the above rules, but in which different shades of colour are seen in one flower either in streaks, spots, or blotches, and indicate a corresponding modification, though in a different direction ; while a number of other seeming anomalies are referred to as examples of “relapse, retrogression, and degeneration.” The whole subject is most admirably and fairly treated, but several portions of it appear to me slightly defective, and some thoughts upon this I must reserve until another occasion. — L. Castle. (To be continued.) MY SUBURBAN GARDEN. (A COLUMN FOR AMATEURS.) My last “ column ” I perceive extended nearly to a page. I regret to have put so much pressure on your space, but experience will enable me to estimate more correctly. I must own I was surprised by the length of my last letter, and I will endeavour not to transgress so flagrantly again. As intimated, I have a little more to say on glass structures, I am confident from past ex¬ perience and mistakes that this subject is one of the first import¬ ance to amateurs, and 1 venture to think has not received the attention it deserves. The side lights of my plain but useful span-roofed greenhouse I have said are not of real service, and I may as well state the reason for arriving at this conclusion. Desiring to utilise the wall on the south side I planted Tomatoes along the base and trained them up the brickwork. They grew well, but I soon found that a height of 2 feet 9 inches was not sufficient for making the best of them, so they were trained up the glass as well, or altogether a height of 4 feet. Now, although the glass was hidden the plants in the house grew quite as well, and were in every respect as satisfactory as during the previous year, when the side glass was exposed ; in fact, the Tomatoes did not shade the plants materially, but only the pots, and I thought this an advantage rather than otherwise in hot weather. The light from the roof proved quite sufficient for the plants. My next advance in building was another step towards greater simplicity, as I determined to have no side lights, but simply brick walls and a glass roof. I remember just at that time visit¬ ing Mr. Bull’s new nursery and inspecting the ranges of span- roofed houses of, I apprehend, the most approved kind, and was a little amused, though I said nothing at the time, to see boards elevated on pot3 as close to the roof as possible at the base of the rafters, so that the banks of plants should slope to the path. “ Wbat is there to be amused at in this ?” does someone ask ? Well, nothing ; and perhaps “amused” is not the proper word. Still it was curious to see side lights employed for lighting the inverted pots supporting the plants, for they served no other pur¬ pose, except, perhaps, facilitating the escape of heat from the house. As I did not wish to burn fuel to warm the outer air, pre¬ ferring to leave that to the sun, I decided on the course adopted, and 1 have had no cause to regret having done so. The house or pit affords me great delight, as one division supplies me with Cucumbers and Melons, the earlier plants followed by Tomatoes ; and the other contains plants of various kinds that need more than a greenhouse temperature, such as Gardenias, Bouvardias, and Tea Roses for buttonholes in winter, with Begonias and sundry other plants that my family and friends admire. This house is the same width as the other, but the walls exter¬ nally are only 2 feet high, while the path in the centre is sunk 18 inches, the height from the floor to the roof being Sj feet ; thus the majority of the plants on a flat stage are nearer the glass than if the angle were more acute, though a deeper pitch might perhaps be better for fruit-growing. In one division are side stages, and the other pits with means of affording bottom heat when more is needed than is afforded by fermenting materials ; but these I prefer, as cheapest for use and best for the plants. This is a capital house, and has a most valuable adjunct outside — so valu¬ able that I would urge its adoption by all amateurs. There is nothing whatever novel about it, but, on the contrary, it is the essence of simplicity, while it is economical and efficient. It is simply a lean-to frame or pit running along both sides of the house. All that was needed was to run a wall 4^ feet from the house and parallel with it, and cover the intervening space with glass. The front wall is only a foot above ground, but a little excavating was done to afford head room for the plants. A flow pipe in the house was pierced, and an inch gas pipe attached, which was connected with a 3-inch pipe taken along the front of the pit, and attached to the pipe in the house at the other end in a similar manner. A valve enables me to turn the heat on and off the frame at will. If anyone can suggest a simpler, cheaper, and better method of making and heating a pit they will do good service by recording it ; and those who have frames of this kind will, I am sure, admit their value. Calceolarias and Cinerarias, Cyclamens and Primulas, Bmvardias and Mignonette, bulbs and Lilies, Pelargoniums and Solanums luxuriate in them, and thus the frames prove feeders for the houses ; and one of them will, I am expecting, afford me a “feed” by-and-by of new Potatoes grown in pots, and another of Beans, for I dabb'e in almost everything in my endeavour to “always have something ; ” but it is certain I could not have what I have without these handy little lean-to pits. Under the stages of the warm house or pit are stored Caladium=, Gloxinias, Achimenes, Gesnerias, and Tuberous Begonias, as I find they keep better there than in a cold house. On examining them I find they arc quite fresh and sound, and must soon be started into growth. It was from here my Christmas Rhubarb was had, and Seakale is now ready. Under the stage of the cool house are stored early Potatoes, also Dahlias and flower pots, while good crops of Mushrooms are had sometimes, these as a rule bothering me and my factotum more than anything ; but we are improving. I intended referring to outside affairs this week, but feel I am encroaching, and I must tell auother time of my mountain of gold.— M. D. Amongst other damage caused by the storm of last Friday, the Winter Gardens and Conservatory at Southport suffered considerably, portions of the roof being blown in, and workmen had to be called up during the night to shore up the front facing the sea. The Botanic Gardens and National Schools also suffered. The wind w-as so violent during the night that it resembled the reports of artillery, and rendered the streets almost impassable. - Relative to Turner's Incomparable Celery, a corre¬ spondent expresses his surprise that such an experienced culti- 92 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 1, 1883. vator as “ A Kitchen Gardener ” appears to be, should intimate on page 26 that this and Sandringham White are distinct varie¬ ties, and thus lead inexperienced readers to purchase two packets of seed of the same vegetable. - Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway, sends us blooms of Primulas rubro-violacea and Chiswick Red, both exceed¬ ingly fine varieties, the former being of a very rich purplish crimson hue, and the latter bright red with a decided tendency to scarlet. The blooms are large, of good form, and very freely produced. - At the annual dinner of the Committee of the Wimbledon and District Horticultural Society, held last Friday, a pleasing presentation was made TO Me. J. Lyne, gardener to A. Schlusser, Esq., Belvedere. The testimonial took the form of a handsome plated tea service, and on the teapot was the fol¬ lowing inscription: — “Presented to Mr. John Lyne by a few members and friends of the Wimbledon Horticultural Society in appreciation of his services as a member of such Committee. January 26th, 1883.” Mrs. Lyne was afterwards presented with half a dozen silver spoons. - The annual dinner of the workmen employed by Messrs. R. E. Crompton & Co. and Messrs. T. H. P. Dennis & Co. at the Arc Electric Light and Anchor Iron Works, Moulsham, took place at the Public Hall, Moulsham, last Saturday evening. Mr. F. A. Fawkes presided at the dinner, being supported by Mr. G. Kapp, Mr. Thos. Thompson, and Mr. W. A. Kyle. After dinner the chair was occupied by Capt. Crompton, who was supported on the plat¬ form by those already named and by Mr. J. Luckin. Mr. S. Sud- worth was in the vice-chair. After the usual toasts had been proposed and suitably acknowledged a pleasant evening was con¬ cluded with a musical entertainment. - Garden Appointments. — Messrs. J. Carter & Co. state that the following appointments have been recently made through them : — Mr. A. H. Wright to be head gardener to J. Y. Hornyold, Esq., of Blackmore Park, Upton-on-Severn ; and Mr. Geo. Stuart, head gardener to C. Howard, Esq., Woodcote Lodge, Shere, Guildford. The late Mr. Ward has, we are informed, been suc¬ ceeded by his son as gardener at Stoke Edith. - Writing on the 29th ult. “ A Northern Amateur ” says “ The effects OF the weather we have had in Perthshire for some time is to be seen. In my garden the buds of fruit trees and bushes are swelling, and Roses are moving. I see on a south wall shoots about half an inch long on a plant of Charles Lawson, and a plant of Marechal Niel which has been slightly protected is also' pushing. During the last week Snowdrops are in flower, Crocuses are showing their tips, white and red Hepaticas, the first laced Polyanthus, and one plant among seedling Primroses are in bloom. On the 27th they were covered with 3 inches depth of snow, which soon began to thaw on the low grounds, although the hills all round are still white, and we have again a repetition of wind and rain. I lately had a plant sent me ; the name on the tally is not very legible, but seems to be Primula glaucescens. The foliage is unlike that of any of the other Primulas I have, and I cannot find it in any catalogue. Can any of your corre¬ spondents give me any information as to such a variety beyond the colour implied in the name ?” - An American contemporary has the following respecting the Lily of the Valley : — “The flowers of the Lily of the Valley, universal favourites, are used during the winter months in great quantities in our large cities and towns, New York city alone probably using a million, the average price of which is about fire cents each, so that for this flower alone 50,000 dols. is annually paid by the bouquet makers of one city to the florists, the con¬ sumer, no doubt, paying from one-third to one-half more. The Lily of the Valley is nearly all imported from Germany and France, usually in single crams or “ pips.” - The fifty-fifth annual report of the Manchester Bota¬ nical and Horticultural Society states that several important changes have been carried out in the garden during the past year. During the past year the old range of houses has been removed, and five new houses, 300 feet long, have been erected in a position further back than the old ones occupied. The erection of these houses and the labour consequent upon the removal of the old buildings has caused an extraordinary outlay of about £1400. The number of new life members who joined during the year exactly corresponded with that of the preceding year, while the income from two-guinea subscribers is four guineas in excess. About £1000 was awarded in prizes during the year to encourage the cultivation of plants, flowers, fruits, and vege¬ tables, and so numerous were the exhibits sent in that much diffi¬ culty was experienced in finding accommodation for them. Another feature of the increasing public utility of the Sbciety is the assistance afforded to botanical "students (professional and amateur), to artists and others. A series of botanical lectures was given during the summer months by Mr. Leo Grindon, to the evident satisfaction of the members present. The Council state that the large exhibition house in which the exotics have been exhibited for the last thirty years is in a very unsafe condi¬ tion (unfit to hold another exhibition in) ; consequently they have resolved to remove the present structure, and to build a new one about one-third larger. It is estimated that the cost of the proposed new exhibition house will be about £2000, and it has been resolved to make an effort to secure one hundred additional life members to cover the expense. A life member’s ticket is £20. The income for the year has been £4204, and the expendi¬ ture £5384. - Parts 26, 27, 28, and 29 of Messrs. Cassell’s re-issue of “ Paxton’s Flower Garden ” contain coloured plates of the following plants, in addition to the woodcuts in the gleanings and original memoranda : — Oncidium variegatum, a pretty species with bright pink flowers, borne in a loose panicle. Jonesia Asoca, an East Indian tree, included in the natural order Leguminosre, but very distinct from the majority of that family ; the flowers are orange-coloured, fragrant, and borne in dense terminal heads. Pleione maculata and P. lagenaria, two well-known dwarf Orchids, the former with white sepals and petals and a rose-striped lip ; the latter differing chiefly in the sepals and petals being purple, and the flowers rather larger. Veronica Andersonii, a hybrid raised from crossing V. salicifolia with pollen from V. speciosa, from which a beautiful race of Veronicas has been obtained. Vanda tricolor is represented by a good plate, and is accom¬ panied by an enumeration of the species. Aponogeton distachyon is also faithfully depicted. Berberis Darwinii, undoubtedly the most ornamental and useful of the genus, is well shown. Salvia gesnerimflora, a favourite rich scarlet-flowered Sage, which is closely allied to S. fulgens (cardinalis), and is especially valued for the brilliancy of its long tubular flowers. Much interesting information is given in the gleanings, through the additions in the present issue do not appear to be very numerous. - Many readers of this Journal will welcome the work just commenced by the publishers of the above, entitled “ Familiar Wild Birds,” which is illustrated with coloured engravings, and accompanied by descriptive letterpress in a similar style to the “ Familiar Wild and Garden Flowers.” The plates are admirably executed, the two in the first part representing the Goldfinch and Magpie. This work will undoubtedly become as popular as the other serials already noticed. - We have been shown some specimens of floral photo¬ graphy executed by Mr. Henry Stevens of the well-known firm February 1, 1863. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 93 of J. C. Stevens of King Street, Covent Garden, which are marvels of the photographic art. Landscape photography has long at¬ tained to high perfection, but the most difficult of all photogra¬ phic manipulation was to properly represent flowers. All attempts in this direction which we have seen are unsatisfactory ; but those that Mr. Stevens has succeeded in producing are of such a nature as to be works of art of a very high order. In all the floral photographs we have seen there is either flatness or a want of definition, and unless all the parts were brought into the same plane or focus some of them are foggy while others are sharp in their outlines. In these productions of Mr. Stevens’ there is a depth and decision which amount to perfection, and no artist with his pencil could produce a more faithful representation of his subject. What struck us most on examining some of the photographs, andjespecially those of Orchids and Lilies, was the remarkably faithful representation of the texture of the floral segments : indeed so well was this done that even the transpa¬ rency was shown, and one could fancy without any effort that transmitted light was shining through the substance of the flower. In this respect these photographs far surpass the efforts of the most skilful pencil artist, and even the best colourists fail to convey the effect produced by this style of photography. - “Among the rarities in flower at Glasnevin just now,” says the Irish Farmer's Gazette , “a little gem deserves special notice. This is a diminutive epiphytal Tillandsia, of Pine Apple aspect, growing on a piece of wood no thicker than a finger, and the plant itself so small that a pill box would cover it. The leaves have their surfaces glistening as if beautifully frosted with silver, and from their centre rise a slim pair of narrow, tubular, glossy purple, Crocus-like flowers, each not thicker than a crow quill, and crowned with gold in the shape of the yellow anthers, which rise just barely above, and contrast strikingly with the colour of the flowers. The plant and wood, we fancy, would scarcely weigh half an ounce.” - A CORRESPONDENT of the New York Weekly Tribune re¬ commends Sweet Briar as a hedge plant when strengthened by wire. “ The Sweet Briar has all the merits attributed to the Barberry or Privet, the Buckthorn, or the Japan Quince. Cattle do not eat it, it is not subject to insect injury, it does not sucker, but makes as thick a base as the Barberry and will grow in as thin and dry ground. It is equally hardy, its thorns and leaves even more numerous, and although the foliage is paler it is only the more distinct for that. The fruits or heps are bright red and showy. The peculiar and special merits of the Sweet Briar as a wire-hedge plant, are that the leaves have a pene¬ trating and delightful fragrance, that it soon grows up, and that it requires the least trimming of all, as it does not exceed in height the stature proper to a hedge, and not sprawl about, but grows erect, trim, and full of shoots from the base. But its stems are not stiff enough, and did not interlace enough or thrust out new growth laterally to fill a gap so quickly as to serve as fence against cattle without the aid of a wire.” ABOUT WATERING. “ How often should it be watered ? ” is a question frequently asked by the proud possessor of a small window plant, and the surprise is genuine when it is found that no practical man will give a simple straightforward answer to the question. Indeed, the fact of being practical seems to stultify the power of giving a simple answer, and it is questionable if the late Robert Thompson, the talented author of the “Gardener’s Assistant,” within the last ten years of his life ever gave a simple answer to any question on the subject of pomology, and I suppose no other man living then knew more about that science practically as well as theoretically. But I remember Mr. Barron, the present Superintendent for the Royal Horticultural Society, asking Mr. Thompson in my pre¬ sence and for my especial benefit (telling me beforehand the sort of answer he was likely to get), a simple question as to the best means of eradicating insects from a fruit house. Mr. Barron had previously put. the same question to me, as he had a query from a correspondent on the subject. I gave my answer straight without a moment’s consideration, and was aston¬ ished that so clever a man as Mr. Thompson should hesitate to do so. But such was the case. The question is much easier for any of us to answer to-day than it was then ; but although I do not claim to have got very far up the ladder on which Mr. Thompson stood at the top, I begin to think that what are apparently little questions are not so easily answered as I once thought. For what purpose is water supplied to plants ? The question I know will appear to many readers to be an absurd one to ask of those who have a water pot in their hand every day, but I must acknowledge my inability to give it a com¬ plete answer. I will, however, answer it as far as I can, and that will bring me to another question — How and when should water be applied ? Water is an indispensable plant-food. A large portion of the plant itself is water ; a certain amount of supply, then, is necessary for building up the plant. But this, it may be said, is only a very small per-centage of the quantity it is found necessary to give to the roots of the plant. Next, transpiration, or the exhalation of moisture from the leaves, is a necessity of a plant’s healthy ex¬ istence, which takes place more or less according to the state of the atmosphere, the extent of the leaf-surface, and the nature and condition of the plant, as well as of the soil in which it is growing. In the open air the quantity of water evaporated by plants is very large, in some districts it is said to be even in excess of the rainfall ; but of this I have no proof, and I am not aware that we have any record of experiments to determine the relative amount of evaporation from plants in our houses com¬ pared with those grown outside, but I should imagine the ven¬ tilators will regulate that to a great extent. Then we know that a plant cannot extract food from a soil which is too dry, even though the foliage should be kept from drooping, and a plant when allowed to droop is of course visibly suffering, and, with the exception of the actual feeling, may be compared to a horse which after a hard day’s work is taken out to work all night without its supper ; in other words, forces are being used up which ought to be accumulating, and this state of things cannot last any more than the business of a man who, finding the interest of his capital insufficient, is continually draw¬ ing on his accumulated principal. There is probably nothing new in what I have said so far on the subject. I feel there is much more which ought to be said, but I dare not at present trust myself to commit it to paper, as I am only beginning to learn a little about it, and should be glad to be informed where I may read up the subject in its physiological aspect. But there is one point mentioned on which I can enlarge somewhat, and I will introduce it by asking another question. How is it that if I take a particular plant under my especial care with regard to watering, and allow it to share all the rest of its treatment with the other plants in the house under the charge of an assistant, that my plant is very likely to excel ? The answer is to be found in the fact that I should take care always to anticipate the wants of my plant. I would no more allow it to flag than a careful nurse would allow a patient to cry out for the necessaries of existence. I would take to know my plant well ; it should never have water when it did not want it, and when it did want it, it should have abundance. You would never see me running with the water pot after the sun had been shining some time. My plant is looked to in the morning or in the evening after the sun has gone down, and is prepared to utilise the sunshine to its fullest extent when it comes again. If it shines brightly all day and the pot is getting full of roots probably another supply will be necessary, and if not I shall take care that it is always prepared for any sort of weather. Anyone wffio will allow a healthy plant indoors to flag, or will give it some cold water after the sun has been shining on it some time, is not fit to be trusted with one. So long as a plant can be kept sufficiently moist the less num¬ ber of times it is watered the better, and were I able to attend to a houseful of plants myself I would have the pots both glazed and without a hole for drainage. I have frequently with advan¬ tage corked up the bottom of a pot after it had become full of roots, but I have looked after the watering myself. There is scarcely a limit to which softwooded plants may be grown in a few months if all their wants are anticipated. As an instance I may mention that on the only occasion I have shown plants, some Fuchsias were struck from cuttings in December and exhibited at Dorchester during the first week of the following June, several of them being 6 feet through and as much high. To t JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 94 my mind — but perhaps I am not an impartial judge — these plants having been grown without stopping or tying, were the best Fuchsias I have seen, but they travelled badly and lost many of their blooms. — Wm. Taylor. BOSSLEA TENUICAULIS. Several Bossiseas are in cultivation, but they are, compara¬ tively rarely seen except in large collections of plants. Yet they are well entitled to a foremost position amongst the best of the Australian Leguminous plants, as they are mostly free in growth and astonishingly profuse flowerers. Two of the most handsome and useful are B. linophylla and B. tenuicaulis, the latter being represented in the illustration (fig. 22). B. linophylla is a slender shrub with linear leaves and bright yellow flowers, which are pro- Fig. 22— Bossitea tenuicaulis. duced from May to September. B. tenuicaulis is rather more straggling in habit, with ovate leaves, the flowers being rich yellow streaked with red. It also flowers earlier than the other — usually during April and May. Both these, like all the others, thrive in a greenhouse temperature, a compost of peat and turfy loam and sand, with good drainage, being all the attention needed. NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. LATE VARIETIES. Much discussion has taken place in the Journal on the varieties of Chrysanthemums most suitable for late-blooming purposes, some writers naming amongst others the following as “ Chrysan¬ themums to bloom from Christmas to the middle of January : ” Fair Maid of Guernsey, Cherub, Arigena, Mrs. Haliburton, Hero of Stoke Newington, Princess Teck, Sarnia, Ethel, Grandiflorum, Madame Lemoine, Oracle, Baron de Prailly, Striatum, Guernsey Nugget, Meg Merrilees, &c. It would have been well if we could have learnt from those who have lauded any varieties for their late-blooming qualities what treatment those varieties have been subjected to during the later [ February 1, 1883. autumn months, for experience has taught me that the lateness of blooming of any variety is more affected by the time that the growth was made and the buds formed than with the nature of any particular kind. Some varieties are, it is true, later to bloom than others when subjected to exactly the same treatment, but there is not that difference in the time of their blooming as the teachings of some growers would lead the inexperienced to think. The names of fifteen distinct varieties are given above, and have appeared in print during the past week or two as having pro¬ duced flowers late in January. How many of them could not have been found plentifully distributed among the exhibition prize stands in the middle of November ? I will venture to say that fourteen out of the fifteen named would be found in almost any detailed account of an ordinary exhibition. The only variety I exclude is Arigena, and this is not that it is a late-blooming kind, but because it is unfortunately too rough and coarse to be admitted in any stand of good flowers. If this is so how can they be properly termed “Christmas” or “ January ” varieties, unless a special or different treatment is brought to bear on any of them to prevent them blooming during November? I consider Fair Maid of Guernsey to be an early-flowering sort, following always very close after Elaine, which is the earliest of all the Japanese forms. Cherub and Mrs. Haliburton, if not early bloomers, are by no means late ; the first will frequently be found in collections at exhibitions, the later not so ofteD, as the blooms are somewhat small or medium-sized. Hero of Stoke Newington and Princess Teck are counterparts of each other, differing only in colour of bloom, and are both useful varieties and late in bloom¬ ing, but not so late but that they can be had in November. These same remarks apply to all the others named, Grandiflorum and Meg Merrilees being the latest of these. Mr. Tunnington exhibited at Kingston in his stand for the challenge vase one of the finest blooms of Meg Merrilees I have ever seen, and that was about the middle of November. I will now give my views respecting retarding the plants, and desire that all who have produced flowers late to state their treat¬ ment. It is well known amongst Chrysanthemum growers that to produce the large flowers seen at exhibitions the crown terminal bud is selected, and all others on the same shoot or growth are pinched off. Now, it sometimes happens that from various causes the point of a shoot may be “ blind” — that is, no fully developed bud is to be found there, and when this is the case other shoots are made later in the season which bloom very late. This in my opinion is one way to obtain late flowers ; another way is not to disbud the plants but get as late a growth as possible. Where a supply of flowers is wanted about Christmas there are many persons who plant out during the summer months numbers of such varieties as Princess Teck, lift them in the autumn, pot and house them. By this means they get a plentiful supply of useful flowers from Christmas to the end of December, or even later. I have at the present time (January 22nd) several flowers on Meg Merrilees, Red Indian, Arlequin, &c., that are merely side flowers, produced from buds that were not pinched out at the time of disbudding, and have formed after the growth was arrested by selecting the crown terminal bud. Almost any of the varieties will produce flowers from the laterals if allowed to do so, but exhibitors generally very carefully rub off all these as they show, in order to throw the strength into the bloom that is selected on the crown of the shoot. It is but a very short time since the Japanese forms were all considered not to bloom until very nearly Christmas, and when the Royal Horti¬ cultural Society offered prizes for competition this was reserved until their December meeting. Now we are accustomed to see them amongst the very earliest to bloom, and why ? Simply because they are disbudded to bloom early in November. If these notes are of any service, or may cause other growers to state under what circumstances they are able to produce late flowers, or if they consider the varieties named are to be termed late-flowering kinds, I shall not have penned them in vain. — J. W. Moorman. P.S. — When I penned the above lines I had not the remotest idea that a paper was so soon to appear on this subject, and it will seem I had anticipated some of the remarks of your corre¬ spondent “A Grower” on page 67, but in a few particulars we vary in opinion. The value of the Pompon Snowdrop is not over¬ rated by him. The perfect imbricated character of its miniature Camellia-like flowers renders it not only one of the most useful but also one of the most attractive varieties in cultivation, and only wants to be grown once to be appreciated. Souvenir de Jersey, although rightly described by your correspondent with respect to colour, &c., does not belong to the Anemone section. Isabella Bott and Fleur de Marie are both grand varieties in their respective sections, but there are many others that are more free to bloom than either of them. February 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 95 I have never found that the Japanese are worse to keep than the incurved section. I have found that there are certain varieties in all the sections less liable to damp than others. What is the cause of the complaint of some flowers damping, or, indeed, decay¬ ing at the earliest stages of their blooming ? Has not high feed¬ ing with artificial manures much to answer for this? Many of the varieties named by your correspondent have excellent qualities, but Laciniatum is more curious than useful ; it is, to say the least, a shy bloomer, of small size, and is surpassed by numbers of others. — J. W. M. [Accompanying this communication were several blooms, the majority of them Japanese. j MY BOX OF TWENTY-FOUR. [By C. II. HAWTREY, condensed from the “ Itosarians’ Year Book.] “ Ethel comes this afternoon, so please be in about four o’clock — don’t forget.” Ethel Craven is my niece — stay — let me first re-introduce myself, John Briggs, of the Lodge, Crawford, and my wife, who has just spoken. Ethel is the daughter of my eldest sister, who years ago married the vicar of a country parish in Cornwall. My brother-in-law is a first-rate fellow, but, like many a country parson, he is not blessed with a superabundance of this world’s goods. Capital friends are my niece and myself, for we have a common bond of union — namely, Roses. And it is partly to this that we owe the pleasure of her visit at this time of the year, for at the end of this week the Great County Rose Show is to be held at Caitham, which all the world knows is the principal town of Marlshire, where the Assizes, the Hunt Ball, and the Agricultural Shows are held — and I wish to have the benefit of her aid and good taste. Besides the classes for Roses, which are, of course, to m}r mind the principal part of the show, there is a prize for the best table decoration, and in thi3 particular line Ethel is very difficult to beat. “No,” I reply, “I won’t forget — I think I’ll just go out now and have a look at the Roses.” Smart is now my gardener ; and since he has been with me the garden has indeed thriven. How Greybridge could have parted with such a treasure I cannot think. I find Smart busily engaged with two lads brushing green fly off the Roses. “ Good morning, Smart. How are the Roses ? Do you think we shall show well on Saturday ?” “ Oh, us’ll be right enough, sir. The best of ’em ’ll have to be prutty handy to beat we this time.” “Remember, it’s a box of twenty-four. We’ve never been so ambitious before.” “ Ah, but then you see, sir, you’ve so many more to pick and choose from this time. ’Taint as if wre was how we was at the 4 Parliss.’ Us was terrible bad there, sir. Just an orsight long o’ they others.” Smart must mean “ eyesore ” I think ; but I cannot agree with him that our Roses were that, though I own they were not good. “ Well, Miss Ethel is coming to stay this week, so she will help us and do the table decoration.” “ Is she now ? Well, I be main glad to hear that, sir.” On my way back to the house I meet James Greybridge coming across the lawn. James is to dine with us this evening. I trust he is not going to disappoint us, as there is nothing that upsets Mrs. Briggs more than having the arrangements of her little dinner parties disturbed. “ Morning, old chap,” he cries. “ Thought I should find you muddling away at the Roses, so came straight out here. Got any¬ thing to do on Thursday ?” “ Thursday, let me see. No. We’re disengaged on Thursday ? ” “ Well I wish you’d do something for me. You know we’ve got a cricket match for Thursday against Murchison’s people. Quite forgot that I’m engaged to play lawn tennis at old Boffer’s. Got a sporting match on with old Tiddywhack himself. Can’t disappoint Boffer, you know. Would you mind just seeing after the cricket match for me ? ” * * * * * “ And now,” cried Ethel, “ do let us go out to the Roses. I long to have a good chat with Smart.” The interval until it was time to go in to dress for dinner was most agreeably spent by Ethel and myself. There were the blooms to be inspected ; the new Roses too, and the Briars that were nearly ready for this year’s budding. Of course the great object of interest was the prospect for the fol¬ lowing Saturday. We could count fifteen or sixteen buds which we thought would be just right ; and if the weather was hot why there would be plenty more. If it was cold, then wre hoped that the' more forward buds would not be gone by. The prospect was hopeful. A thrill of pride and anticipation was making my blood tingle, when I was startled by a cry from Ethel. “ Good gracious ! Uncle John, what have you got here 1 I didn’t think it of you. I didn’t indeed.” I was at this time inspecting a bud of A. K. Williams, which I had been counting on, and which to my disgust I found had lately been devoured on the under side by a grub and rendered perfectly useless. I hurried on at once. “ What is it ?” I asked. “ Look,” she said. “ I wonder what Mr. Camm would say.” Well, they were beautiful plants. Nobody could deny that. And I dislike Paul Neron as much as anybody does ; but then an exhibitor must grow as many sorts as possible, and even Paul Neron is not to be despised when you don’t know how to make up your box. “ Ah,” says Smart, “ wery prutty I calls it, sometimes. You minds, sir, when — ” “ Pretty, Smart !” says Ethel ; “ it’s hideous !” There they stood, eighteen great fine plants. The foliage was splendid, and one or two huge blooms appeared amidst it. But these blooms were as nothing compared to what were to come. The buds were like cricket balls ; and I noted the fact privately, and I know that Smart had noted it too, that they would be “ in ” on Saturday. And if it should happen that we should be short, of course — why, we should have to — well, there was no need to say anything about that at present. “ Uncle John, can’t you get Mr. Greybridge as a favour to accept these plants next autumn ? If not, we will subscribe and pay some¬ one to take them. Or, as a last resource, we might send them to Major Milman to be planted in the west of Ireland.” ***** The next day I am quite myself again. Well, yes, I confess I am excited about to-morrow’s contest — awfully excited. The weather has been favourable, and I certainly never had any Roses to compare with these. Ethel and I are having a quiet look at them this even¬ ing, and we can cut to-morrow morning. Good gracious ! Here comes Greybridge ; what on earth does he want ? He hangs about me like an influenza cold at Christmas¬ time. “ Good evening. Miss Craven,” he says. Then turning to me, “Well, old chap 1 Now for the Roses ! ” * * * * * We walk down the cinder-path which divides the Rose garden. Presently we come to the Paul Nerons. Well, upon my word, they are wonderful : one has often seen them like saucers : these are like soup plates. Coarse ! I should think so ! I was going to say that coarse is not the word. But it is; that is just exactly what it is. Coarse is the only word that describes them. U tterly, frightfully, hideously coarse. James eyes them ; he stops ; he leaves the path. He walks round those eighteen plants pthen he looks up at me and says, with great solemnity, “ Briggs, old chap, you’ll win that cup to-morrow. I’m blowed if you wTon’t.” ****** Smart and I got the twenty-four ready, while Ethel was preparing for the dinner-table decoration. James followed her about, held flowers for her, and, in short, did exactly what he was told. I don’t suppose anybody who knows James will believe this ; but I can’t help that. It is a fact. He did what he was told. Only once did he take any interest in what Smart and I were doing. It was when we came to the Paul Nerons. He walked across to see them cut. I passed them. “ Hullo,” he said ; “ ain’t you going to cut these ? ” “ No,” said I ; “ I don’t think we shall want them.” “Humbug!” he answered ; “you won’t win the cup without these. Cut them at once, Smart,” he went on in his old imperious manner. “ They’ll do for spares, sir,” said Smart to me, apologetically. I am aware that Smart has a sneaking fondness for the hideous monster. So they were cut and put into the spare box. Everything was ready in good time, and I was in high spirits, for the Roses surpassed all my expectations. It must be a real good Twenty-four to beat me to-day. ***** I gloated over every bloom. How exquisite the Devoniensis looked between Prince Camille and Charles Lefebvre. The grub-eaten A. K. had quite gone by, but here was another, rather small perhaps, but such perfect form. There was not another Catherine Mermet in the show like mine ; of that I was certain. And then Emilie Haus- burg, so much undervalued by those who don’t know a good Rose when they see one, and so much prized by those who do. And these were only some of the especial beauties in my Twenty- four. Marie Baumann was grand ; so was Louis Van Houtte ; the Baroness splendid ; Thomas Mills a marvel of brightness. In fact there was not a bad bloom in the box. No room for Paul Neron here. It would have been a real case of Beauty and the Beast. “ Well, Smart, what is it? ” I asked. “Come to see how you was a-getting on, sir,” answered Smart. “ They don’t seem to want I down there, so I come along.” “ Not much doubt about the cup this time, Smart,” I exclaimed. “ No-o, blesh you, sir. We’re right this time. I see’d ’em a looking precious sly at we when the cover was took off of the box.” “ Ah, well, there’s many a slip,” said I, trying to control my excitement ; but the fact was, we were clearly best — at least, I thought so — clearly, clearly best. The bell rang. One last look, just to sec that the names were all right. 96 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 1, 1863. Then we went out of the hall to spend that tedious hour-and-a-half as best we might, while the judges had it all their own way.” “ Everything comes to the man who knows how to wait,” even admission to a flower show. It came ; and again we entered the hall. The dinner-table decoration was in the centre of the room, right opposite to us as we entered . “ What is it ? First Prize ! Bravo, Ethel ! Well done ! There was G-reybridge, standing by the table as pleased as Punch. Leaving Ethel with him for a moment, to admire her own work and to hear the remarks of unknown spectators, I hurried on to my Twenty-four. The fact was, I felt that I must see it alone first of all. My excitement was too great. There was the place. Aha ! it must be all right. There was quite a big crowd round my box already. I hurried on. Hullo ! What could there be to laugh at ? Why ! They were roaring ! Shaking their sides ! In fits of laughter ! “ Smart,” I called out in some little alarm, “ Smart, what is it ? ” “ Oh, it warn’t right,” said Smart, shaking his head. It clearly was not right. I never saw Smart’s face so long in my life. “ What is it ? For goodness’ sake tell me what we’ve got,” I almost screamed. “ Dis — qualified,” answered poor Smart. “ What ? ” I shouted. “ Go and see, sir,” said Smart; and he turned away. His feelings were too much for him. I made my way as best I could through the crowd, and reached my box. I could not believe my eyes. Where were the Devoniensis, the Prince Camille, the A. K. Williams, the Catherine Mermet, the Emilie Hausburg ? Gone ! gone 1 gone ! And in their places were five huge hideous Paul Nerons ! the labels were unchanged. Was it any marvel, then, that on my box lay a large card, with “ Dis¬ qualified for Duplicates ” written on it in great black letters ? Five Paul Nerons, all named differently ! Two actually put side by side, and called Prince Camille de Rohan and Devoniensis ! No wonder the judges and everybody else laughed till they cried. I couldn’t speak. I knew all about it at once. Only one man in Europe could have done that thing. He stood before me. “ Well, old chap,” he said, “I did the best I could for you, but there’s no satisfying these beggars. Cheer up ! You never could have won with the things I pulled out of the box. So there isn’t much harm done after all. “ What is the matter ? ” asked Ethel, as she came up. “ Five Paul Nerons in my Twenty-four, Ethel,” I said in my misery. If my look was one which ought to have slain Greybridge, the look which Ethel gave him was one which apparently very nearly succeeded in killing him outright. “ Mr. Greybridge, I’ll never forgive you. Never in all my life. Never ! ” and she evidently meant it. “ Go this moment to the Com¬ mittee, and explain what you have done ; and ask Mr. D’Ombrain to come and speak to me.” By this time Mr. D’Ombrain had come upon the scene, and in two minutes more the hateful “Disqualified” card had disappeared, and had been replaced by one on which was printed “ Extra Prize.” “ Good afternoon, Mr. Greybridge,” said Ethel, with the coldest little bow imaginable ; and then she turned short round. “ Let us go,” she said to me ; “ I don’t want to stay any longer.” And home we went. As we were in the train, I could not help feeling sorry for poor James, and I told Ethel so. “Uncle John,” she said, “you are the kindest old thing in the world.” And I thought I saw a tiny tear glistening in her eye. When I got home, I sat down at once and wrote a note : — “ Dear James — Come and dine this evening, I am sure you meant it all for the best. Yours sincerely, John Briggs.” The answer was not long in coming. “ Dear Briggs — I think you are the best fellow I know. Thanks, old chap, a hundred times. I’ll come. Yours ever, J. G.” He came, and was forgiven. Yes, in spite of everything. A very pleasant little party it was ; just James and ourselves. After dinner we went into the drawing room, and first we had a little music. Then my wife, I am sorry to say, began to nod, and in two minutes she was fast asleep. It is a shocking habit that she has, and I do all I can to break her of it ; but I am afraid she rather enjoys it. I myself never go to sleep in the drawing room. I make a great point of always keeping awake, so that I may be conscious of setting a good example to Mrs. Briggs. But on this occasion — I really don’t know how it was (I had been up very early, you see, and had been through a very trying day) — well, on this particular evening I believe I did drop off too. I had only been asleep for a minute or two — in fact, I believe I had only just closed my eyes — when I woke with a start. James and Ethel were not in the room. The next minute I heard their steps on the gravel outside. They came in. “Oh! Uncle John,” said Ethel, kissing me, and looking wonder¬ fully pretty, “ it is such a lovely night.” “ Ethel, dear,” said my wife, waking up, “ it’s time for bed.” James Greybridge came into my room for asmoke and a chat. We talked for a long while ; in fact, it was past one when he rose to go. As for our conversation, I need not give it in detail. The tenor of it may be gathered from the last remark which James made to me. “ By Jove ! ” he shouted, as he slapped me on the back ; “ what a lark ! I never thought of that ! ” “ Thought of what ? ” I asked. “ Why, you’ll be my uncle John ! ” CHRYSANTHEMUMS AT KINGSTON. On reading the remarks by Mr. T. H. Bryant last week I referred to what I said about his plants at page 29, and I do not find there any “unfair” remarks or anything “devoid of truth.” What I do find is a harmless criticism of the large plants exhibited by him, and if he is afraid about his plants being criticised he ought not to send them to a public exhibition. Anyone reading my remarks would naturally believe his plants were not in com¬ petition, at least I intended they would have that meaning. Mr. Bryant may think his plants were the best in the exhibition ; I think they were not the best, and because I was unfortunate enough to express my opinion Mr. Bryant accuses me of making unfair statements, and also statements utterly devoid of truth. I know nothing of Mr. Bryant — I did not even know the name of his gardener before I saw it in print, and beg to say that I am not jealous anent his plants, and said not a word but what I believed to be strictly in accordance with facts. I hope I have the right both to express an opinion and also to differ from Mr. Bryant, with whom I do not intend to enter into any controversy. “ Oh, wad some power the giftie gie us To see ourselves as others see us, It would from many a blunder free us And foolish notion.” — J. Douglas. NOTES FROM MY GARDEN IN 1882.— No. 1. GLADIOLUS. Several letters that I have received privately from corre¬ spondents who want to know when I am going to give these notes convince me of the fact that they have some degree of interest for many of your readers. As certain manuals of health teach us what to eat, drink, and avoid, so the lessons of horticulture are as much what we are not to do as what we are to follow ; and yet there are some cases in which all our failures seem to advance us no whit further in the avoidance of them for the future. Con¬ spicuously is this the case with the Gladiolus. I have now been a grower of it for five and twenty years ; I have watched it narrowly in my own garden and in those of friends for that length of time, and I honestly confess I am just as far from under¬ standing them as we are from understanding the cause of the Potato disease and suggesting a remedy. And now to my experi¬ ence of last season. I was very much struck at the Great Exhibition at Manchester with some magnificent spikes exhibited by Mr. Thompson of Newcastle, and especially to find amongst them some of the older flowers which I had never seen in such good form. On inquiring of them as to their method of culture they informed me that they planted the corms in pots first, and then turned them out into the open ground in April. As I had tried various plans, none of which had been of the slightest avail in preventing loss, I determined to try this plan, although it involved some trouble, and I reserved one bed for this purpose. I had a considerable number of corms imported from France, some of Mr. Kel way’s, and some of my own saving ; and having some good, sound, fibrous loam about 140 were planted in pots and kept in a cool house. They started well, and when they had grown about G inches and were looking very promising they were planted out with great care about 6 inches deep, and nothing could be more satisfactory to a grower than the regular-looking condition of the beds. I had from them some magnificent spikes of bloom, but I had, alas ! also a large number of failures. They spindled for bloom, they opened their flowers well, and then withered. I mention this because Mr. Kelway attributes some of the failures to the corms being exhausted by seed-bearing. In other cases the plants never bloomed but withered away, the foliage turning yellow and brown. When the corms were lifted they were found to be more or less spotted, the outer skin rough and thready (if I may use the ex¬ pression), and the base of the corms from whence the roots pro¬ ceed quite black. The degree of the decay differed, but I have always found that it proceeds rapidly, and, no matter how the corm is treated, it is utterly useless. I think there was probably less loss in the imported ones, but the difference was not very great, and this disposes of the idea that there is no such loss among the growers abroad. Thus out of two dozen imported corms of Meyerbeer I only lifted a dozen sound ones. Again, it showed that the idea of English-raised and English-grown Gladioli JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. February 1, 18S3. ] 97 beiog hardier is a fallacy. I may, while on this very dishearten¬ ing view of the situation, mention that my frien l Mr. Banks of Sbolden, who was the largest amateur grower in England, and who for many years had fought manfully a losing battle, has at last been obliged to confess himself beaten, and after having lost fifty thousand plants in two years has finally given them up. Nor can I look forward very hopefully to the coming season. The heavy and continuous rain in the autumn months has made the difficulty greater. I have no doubt that the corms are not suffi¬ ciently ripened ; indeed in a letter from my friend M. Souil- liard of Fontainebleau he says they have had a great difficulty in securing their bulbs. It must be remembered that size is no proof of soundness. I remember once lifting four corms of Madame Desportes, each of which weighed a quarter of a pound, and every one of them failed when planted. y~ I have again tested the plan of cutting the corms in halves, securing an eye to each section, and am quite satisfied that it i3 the best plan to adopt where they are of sufficient size, for it secures a better bloom, and you are just as likely to lift good-sized corms as where they are left whole. It may be asked, What about the other beds in which the Gladioli were planted in the usual way without having been grown in pots ? There was but little difference, the upshot of all being that, although I planted four hundred bulbs, I did not lift more than two hundred sound exclusive of seedlings. Nothing is to be learned from the success of these. The vigour with which they start, like that of the young man, lasts them for awhile, but after a year or two they fall into the same bad way and perish. Here again one traces a similarity to the Potato. How many varieties are advertised as disease-proof 1 and so they may be for a year or two ; but they JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 98 very soon show that this is simply a condition of their youth, for after awhile this character is no longer appended to the description of their qualities. What then 1 Are we to abandon their culture altogether ? We hardly like to do that, and there are two things in our favour. In the first place the prices of really good varieties have been so much diminished of late years by the French growers that fine varieties can be obtained for a trifle, Meyerbeer, Schiller, Eugene Scribe, Norma, Le Phare, and others of good exhibition kinds in¬ cluded amongst them. We do not mind giving sums like these for Hyacinths, which only last for the season, or for Lilium auratum, which very often dies after its first year of blooming ; and so we may be content to grow our Gladiolus on the chance of getting a season’s bloom out of them. It may be very dis¬ couraging, but I think that we must accept the inevitable. Then there is another hope for us — the reproduction of the varieties by the spawn or small corms which are formed round the base of the corm in all sorts of odd ways. These should all be removed, put into small paper bags, and then sown in the early spring. I prefer to sow mine in pots, and then when they have started well to turn them out into the open ground. Others, where the quantity is large, sow them in drills in the open at once, having properly prepared the ground previously. Some varieties produce these small corms very freely, others very sparsely indeed, and hence some which have been in commerce for many years are still as dear as they were. I have taken off one plant of Horace Vernet one hundred small ones, while I have taken up a dozen of Adolphe Brogniart without obtaining a single cormlet. There were some fine flowers amongst those sent out from Fon- tainbleau last year. Opale is of a peculiar fresh colour ; Mount Etna and Fiambozante are fine scarlet flowers; while Mdlle. Marie Verdale is a fine salmon-coloured flower, striped with ver¬ milion and scarlet ; but the season was unfavourable for judging of the merits of these new flowers. Mr. Kelway, as usual, sent out a goodly number of varieties, and doubtless there were some fine flowers amongst them ; but I have not had an opportunity of seeing them. My first notes are not very encouraging, but one must speak the truth ; and when I see good people narrating their success I am inclined to say, “Let not him that putteth on his harness boast against him that putteth it off.” Let him bide a wee, and after three or four years’ time he will join in the assertion that the Gladiolus, beautiful and striking though it is, is a trying and disappointing flower.— D., Deal . CRINODENDRON IIOOKERIANUM. This very distinct and beautiful evergreen shrub (fig. 23, p. 97) is botanically related to the Lime, but in general appearance possess¬ ing no resemblance whatever to that well-known tree. It is a native of South Chili, where, however, it is by no means abundant, and whence, it was first introduced by Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, in 1880. As might be expected from the locality in which it is found, it requires very little heat, and a greenhouse temperature suits it admirably. It can be grown in a compost of peat, loam, and sand, the two former in equal proportions, and sufficient of the latter to render the soil porous. The leaves are lance-shaped or narrowly egg-shaped, the flowers being produced singly or in pairs from the axils of the leaves, and have been not inaptly compared to Lapageria rosea, particularly in colour and texture. They are pendulous and freely produced along the branches, giving plants of moderate size a very striking appearance. It was certificated at the Royal Botanic Society’s Show, May 19th, 18S0, where it was greatly admired by the visitors. It was there shown under the name already given ; but it has been subsequently determined to be Trieuspidaria hexapetala, but this title is not generally known. — C. HYACINTH US CANDJCANS. This with its Yucca-like foliage and handsome spike of white pendant bell-shaped flowers is deservedly becoming popular, as any doubt as to its hardiness has been happily dispelled ; and blooming at a season when flowers of the character are not plenti¬ ful it becomes valuable, the flowers being produced successionally over a lengthened period. It flowers in late July or early in August, and prefers a light rich soil, but will do well in most soils that are well drained, and it should be planted 4 to 6 inches deep. Solitary plants have a poor effect compared with those in clumps of a dozen or more. A mulching of well-decayed manure or leaf soil round the plants in autumn and pointed-in in spring will greatly benefit them. Plants for conservatory decoration are not numerous in August, [ February 1, 1883. and this grown in pots, a dozen in a 9 or 10-inch pot are very effective. Good turfy loam with a fifth of well-decayed manure, and a sprinkling of sand will grow them well, placing the roots so that the crowns will be covered 2 inches deep. The pots should be efficiently drained, as they require plentiful supplies of water when in free growth. In winter they may be plunged in ashes outdoors, and be grown through the summer in an open situation but sheltered from winds. The plants must be supplied with water and liquid manure, removing them indoors when the spike appears if wanted early or when the first flowers expand. If wanted to flower late they may be retarded by placing them in June at the north side of a wall, and they may then be had in flower as late as September. — G. Abbey. [it | EH 4) id ® WORK^fo^theWEEK.. < [By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments.'] KITCHEN GARDEN. Ground should now be prepared for Parsnips, and the seed may be sown the first time the soil is in favourable condition. A moderately rich deep soil is the most suitable. They grow luxuriantly in a very rich soil, but it is in this they are most liable to rust and decay in autumn. The rows should be from 18 inches to 2 feet apart, and the drills 2 inches deep. By putting three or four seeds down every foot or so a little batch of plants will be secured, and much less seed will be used than when all the row is sown. Garlic and Shallots may now be planted. We treat them both alike, and put them into rich open soil in rows 1 foot apart and 6 inches from plant to plant. A small hole is made for each bulb with a blunt-pointed dibble, and the soil is not drawn in again, but the bulb is surrounded with a handful of river sand, which keeps it snug and fresh until growth begins. Cabbage plants raised from seed and planted in their bearing quarters in the autumn promise, owing to the mild weather, to be unusually early. They succeed best in winter when the ground is very firm about the roots, and we have sometimes been afraid to disturb them too early, as to loosen the soil to induce them to grow more rapidly not unfrequently makes them “ bolt ; ” but at present we would advise their being all examined, filling any blanks and drawing a little soil to the stems of the early batches. Plants which are too late for any special lime or purpose should have the soil loosened among them with a fork to encourage their speedy growth. More Peas should be sown, and the earliest kinds are still the most suitable. The most favourable positions should also be selected for them. At this time we give great attention to cropping along the borders near walls, and all available space here is being filled with early tender spring crops. These consist of Potatoes, dwarf Peas, Cauliflowers which have been wintered in frames, Lettuce, Radish, &c. More Broad Beans should be sown. As yet we have not sown our main crops, but only a few rows between Gooseberry bushes, which is generally a sheltered position for them at first. A sharp look-out must now be kept for slugs. Gathering with the hand and slight dustings of soot and lime frequently applied are sure means of keeping them in check. Earth up and stake all Peas which are visible above ground, and keep all surfaces between growing crops clean and open with the Dutch hoe. Remove decaying vegetables to the refuse heap, and manure or lime and dig or trench every empty space. Rhubarb and Seakale are advancing in growth in the open ground, and it is not now necessary to lift these for forcing, as they will come rapidly on if covered with their pots, or any old box or barrel, and hotbed manure. Cauliflower plants in frames should now have abundance of air admitted to them, that they may be well hardened previous to being transferred to the open quarters. Lettuces may be treated in the same way. In the forcing house attention must be paid to Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Vegetable Marrows, &c. Those which have now formed a few rough leaves should be potted, keeping them as near the glass as possible. Sow more seed of the things just named. Kidney Beans may be placed in their fruiting pots as soon as they are large enough ; good drainage and a rough soil suits them best. Sow successions every fortnight. Do not syringe any which may be coming into flower until the pods have been formed. February 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 99 Peas may be brought forward under glass if sown in strips of turf or small pots, but to secure any advantage in this way they must be kept very near the glass and in an airy atmosphere. A pinch of early Celery seed should be sown in a pot or box, and kept in the forcing pit until the plants are half an inch high, when more air and less heat will benefit them. The general stock of seed Potatoes must now be examined. Where they have been heaped together in rather a close place many of the lowest will have made long growths, which are of no use, and it is with the object of removing these and spread¬ ing the whole out thinly that they should be looked over. Only the 6hort stubby growths should be allowed to remain, and if they can all be spread out in a single layer exposed to light and air they will be found to be in excellent order at planting time. FRUIT-FORCING. Strawberries in Pots. — Plants in flower should be watered on the mornings of fine days, keeping the leaves and flowers raised by one hand, and also to keep the crown from being saturated, the latter being often injured by the constant application of water over it. The air of the house should be dry for a couple of hours each day, so as to secure a favourable condition for fertilising the blooms, which is expeditiously done with a feather duster daily, until there is a good crop set, after which all superfluous flowers and deformed fruit should be removed. Introduce more plants to a Peach or other houses about to be started so as to maintain the succession of fruit after it once comes in, and see that those advancing for flowering are free from aphides, which sometimes harbour in the crown ready to infest the rising leaves and trusses. Pines. — The fruit of Queens and other varieties for the summer supply of fruit will be emerging from the centre of the plants, and in order that these may be produced well above the foliage every encouragement should be given by prompt attention to watering, bottom heat, &c., with a night temperature of 65° to 70°, and about 75° in the daytime, by artificial means. In this and the fruiting department the heating apparatus must of necessity be almost always kept constantly hot, and on account of this aridity of the atmosphere results unless the ordinary means of syringing or sprinkling be pursued ; therefore take advantage of such times as the pipes are coolest to saturate the surroundings. In light structures the plants will need to be syringed more fre¬ quently than in damp ones, but the necessity for syringing may be ascertained by examining the base of the leaves ; if the axils contain moisture none need be given. Take advantage of suitable opportunities to have materials in hand for making up or renew¬ ing exhausted beds, and for potting purposes. Peaches and Nectarines. — Late varieties still in flower in the earliest house should have the flowers dusted with a camel’s-hair brush daily, keeping the house moderately dry with ventilation until the flowers show signs of falling and the skins are being cast, when gentle syringing with tepid water should be resorted to twice a day. Proceed cautiously with disbudding and shortening shoots that were left full length at pruning time. Remove the foreright shoots first, commencing on that part of the trees which are the most vigorous, and finish with the weakest or horizontal parts. Keep a sharp look-out for aphides, fumigating as soon as the pest appears, but be careful not to give an overdose, or there is danger of the tender foliage being injured, especially if it be moist. See that the roots are properly supplied with tepid water, or weakly trees with tepid liquid manure. Trees in succession houses approaching the flowering stage should be treated precisely as advised in former calendars for the earliest house, continuing to syringe well until flowers expand, and do not omit to fumigate before that when the trees are dry. Buds very thickly studded on the under side of the shoots should be removed before they expand. Where there are a number of houses another may now be started to give ripe fruit by the middle of July. Late houses should be kept as cool as possible by free ventilation. FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Planting and Treatment of Hedges. — Should mild weather con¬ tinue the present is a good time to plant hedges of any plants except Hollies. The latter, which forms by far the best evergreen hedge, should not be planted till late in March or early in April. The next best for a hedge with regard to appearance is the common Yew, and this is particularly well adapted for formal hedges sometimes considered necessary for dividing purposes in the pleasure ground. Quick Thorn and Privet mixed will form a neat and fairly strong hedge, but the former alone would be the strongest, while Privet alone will offer little obstruction. For enclosing extensive pleasure grounds and plantations we prefer a mixture of Quick Thorn and Beech ; the latter retaining its foliage nearly the year round, and therefore serves as a screen or cover, grows freely, and is easily managed. Whatever may be employed it is imperative that the ground be both manured and deeply dug. Neglect this precaution and the probability is, in the majority of places, a good even hedge will never be secured. Carefully plant in double lines about 12 inches apart, and 12 inches asunder in the rows and angled. If strong plants of Yews are obtainable these may be planted at wider intervals, so that each plant touches its immediate neighbours. It is not absolutely necessary to cut back either Yews or Hollies in the earliest stages, both naturally forming good bottoms ; but the other kinds, notably the Privets and Thorns, should at this time of year be cut down to within 5 inches of the ground the first season after plant¬ ing, repeating the operation with rather less severity the next two seasons. By this plan only will a substantial hedge with a suffi¬ ciently strong bottom be secured. To further induce vigorous growth the ground on each side of the young hedges must be annually lightly dug, kept perfectly free from weeds, and mulched if no manure was given prior to planting. When trimming well- established hedges, and which in the case only of Privet, Thorns, and Beech to be now completed, the Scotch plan of forming them wedge-shaped — that is to say, with a wide bottom and the top brought up to a point, insures strength where most required — viz., at the bottom, and is besides very neat in appearance. Early Cuttings of Bedding Plants. — Where a large number of bedding plants are required the stock of Verbenas, Lobelias, Ageratums, Heliotropes, Alyssums, and Abutilons may now be introduced into a warmer house than that they were wintered in. This will induce them to produce fresh shoots, which will be found to strike more readily and surely than the hard old growth. The common practice of striking most of the foregoing thickly in 5-inch or 6-inch pots in the autumn, and wintering them in this condition is a mistake, as they soon become starved and produce fresh growth in less quantities and much inferior in quality to that obtained from more liberally treated plants. Verbenas especially ought to be wintered thinly in boxes and in a cool house, and if the cuttings when inserted were clean and healthy they will form vigorous plants. From these in the following spring can easily be obtained abundance of good plants, which will grow healthily and flower freely during the season. Cuttings struck from diseased insect-infested plants are useless, and will inevitably disappoint the grower. Any stock plants much root-bound will be greatly assisted by occasional supplies of liquid manure. Preparing Manure for Hotbeds.— A. heap of fermenting mate¬ rial should now be prepared for propagating and other purposes for which hotbeds and frames are largely employed. A mixture of leaves and stable manure gives a sufficiently powerful, and, at the same time, comparatively sweet heat. The latter this season, owing to the half-decayed state of the leaves, should, in order to remove rank heat; be well shaken out and thrown into a heap, allowed to remain a week or longer according to circumstances, then returned and again allowed to heat rapidly for a similar time prior to the leaves being mixed with it. The leaves will sweeten and moderate the heat and increase the bulk. The rough manure obtained from a cow yard, if slower in preparation, is powerful, and much sweeter than the horse yard manure. The roughest of the latter may well be spread in the cow yard for a time. PLANT HOUSES. Forcing House. — If the principal heat in this house has been derived from fermenting material, and has cooled considerably, some fresh leaves and litter should be introduced, and the whole turned over and thoroughly mixed. The length of time leaves and litter supply heat entirely depends upon the condition of the material when the bed is made. If wet it heats violently for a time, but will not last long ; on the other hand, if moderately dry and properly prepared by frequent turning, the heat is very steady for a long period, and a few barrowfuls of fresh material soon revives it when declining. Avoid placing such plants as Spiraeas, Ghent Azaleas, and similar plants too soon on fermenting beds that have been re-made, for if the ammonia thrown off is strong the tender foliage will be injured. There will be no fear of this if the bed is properly made to start with, and renewed from time to time as indicated above. The moist genial heat derived from leaves, &c., is preferable for forcing plants into flower than dry heat from hot-water pipes. Introduce from time to time, according to requirements and demand, Lilacs, Deutzias, Prunuses, Dielytra spectabilis, and the many other plants suitable for forcing into flower early. Before placing the varieties of Azalea indica in heat examine them carefully, and if there is or has been any thrips upon them wash them thoroughly with a solution of tobacco water and soft soap, to which has been added a lump of common washing soda about 100 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t February i. mz. the size of a cob nut to each gallon of the mixture. Tbrips spread rapidly upon plants in heat, and will injure these plants when in flower. Rhododendrons multiflorum, Gibsonii, Nobleanum, and caucasi- cnm varieties will come readily into flower if placed in heat, and will succeed Early Gem and prascox. Plants of the latter that have been kept in a cold house are coming into flower, while the latest batch that have been plunged and are still outside are swelling their buds rapidly, and will be allowed to open under cool treatment. All plants forced should be introduced in time, so that they can be allowed to open their flowers in a temperature of 45°. Not only are the flowers more natural in colour, but they last nearly double the time either on the plant or in a cut state. All plants from the present time that have been started for a week or two in a temperature of 45° will come forward rapidly in the forcing house, which should be kept 55° to 60°, acc rding to the weather. Syringe the plants in this house twice daily, giving air when favourable, and close the house early, so as to hu>band as much sun heat as possible. Dutch bulbs of every description will come forward very fast from the present time, and fresh batches should be introduced every week or ten days to maintain an unbroken supply. Keep them close to the glass, and remove them into a much lower temperature as soon as the first flowers open. Irnatophyllum miniatum and its varieties should now have their flower spikes well advanced in a cool house, and if wanted early place them in heat ; if not, allow them to open in the cool. When it has flowered, if this plant is assisted to make its growth under the influence of heat, and then kept cool afterwards, it will open its flowers naturally during the winter and spring months. Single plants in from 5 to 7-inch pots are the most serviceable for decorative purposes, and large plants can be split up directly after flowering, and placed in single pots if necessary. These plants will do in the same pots for a number of years with liberal feeding, providing the drainage is good, or can have the old soil shaken from them annually after flowering, placing them in the same size pots with new compost, which is preferable. DOES AUTUMN FEEDING CAUSE BEES TO RECOMMENCE BREEDING? A CORRESPONDENT of the Journal has lately suggested a fuller expression of opinion on this subject than we have had ; and if I understood his letter he thinks that the weight of evidence given by experienced men is not in favour of autumn Reding being practised for the object of getting a late hatch of brood. In this thought we agree with him, believing that the most successful bee keepers of Great Britain do not feed their bees in autumn merely to get late hatches of brood. But does autumn feeding cause queens to recommence laying after the regular season has passed 1 At the end of the Clover season, say at the end of July or beginning of August, many hives or queens cease to breed ; and when taken to the moors about the I2th of August during a glut of honey recommence breeding, and fill theirhives with brood from side to side. If bees in August and the beginning of Sep¬ tember be constantly and vigorously fed they will recommence breeding. The weather then is not cold, and pollen is abundant. But August is not an autumn mouth as understood by bee¬ keepers. The Clover season in Scotland does not end till the middle of August, when the rich Heather begins. Take a hive in the middle of September a month after the queen has been resting and barren, and begin to feed it in moderation, say 1 !t>. sugar per day, and watch the result. Probably not more than one queen in four so treated will recommence to lay even if surrounded with peameal and barley bannocks. It is unnatural for queens to lay at that season, and hence the artificial attempts made to overfeed queens and cause them to lay often fail. We do not follow or recommend such artificial practice in order to get hatches of brood. That hatches of brood are sometimes obtained by artificial feeding we know very well. Even when obtained they are comparatively small and hardly worth the cost and trouble of their production. Another consideration, not important, is this : Does a late hatch exhaust and weaken the queen to a certain extent, and prevent her from laying so early in spring as she otherwise would do ? This question we cannot answer with certainty, but we hesitate not to say that the more closely the lines of Nature are followed the better it will be for bees, and probably also for their masters. The process of creating stocks in autumn from bees of honey hives, and from those snatched from brimstone pits and sold as condemned bees, I have lately explained ; but 1 may here say that if such bees are put iuto empty hives in August or the first half of September and then fed vigorously the bees build combs rapidly, and great sheets of brood are generally produced ; but if this work be attempted later in the season it is more difficult of accomplish¬ ment, as the bees sit more closely together, less inclined for work, and more reluctantly build combs — such combs being thick and dumpy, built to hold syrup and not brood. The queens, too, want rest, and it is a difficult matter to bring them into a state of pregnancy. Our system of autumn feeding practised for fifty years is easily explained and understood. The bees of honey hives are preserved and united to the stocks marked for keeping, thus making them numerically strong. Even the brood in the honey hives is pre¬ served, hatched, and utilised in the same way. Such strong stocks require much food from September till April. If they have not enough honey in September we give them sufficient syrup then, and give it to them rapidly. Our feeding boards hold from 4 to 0 lbs. of syrup each — that is, from two to three quarts. And our bees in September can take and store up three quarts in a day easily. But why feed them so rapidly ? Because we care nothing about a late batch of brood, and know well that in rapid feeding in autumn there is less consumption and waste of food. Slow and continuous feeding is desirable in spring when breeding commences, and when once begun it should be continued and encouraged by the administration of food ; but in autumn things are different. Robbers abound, pillage is the order of the day, and hence the quieter hives are kept the less food is consumed and fewer lives are lost. In ordinary seasons good hives require about 15 lbs. of honey or syrup to keep their bees from September till March. If bees are kept comfortably warm in winter, the less they are then disturbed by feeding the better. — A. Pettigrew, lioivdon. INTRODUCING QUEENS WITHOUT ENCAGING. It is well known that a serious loss is occasioned to a colony of bees, especially in early spring, by the exchange of queens through the stranger being caged for forty-eight hours, or even a less time. The colony does not only lose the eggs that might have been produced during that time, but the sudden check im¬ posed upon a full-laying queen by being imprisoned, throws her back so much that she does not recover her usual fecundity for some days. Imported queens will often not layfat all for the first few days ; and the cr’ginal sovereign having been deposed or destroyed, the colony suffers the loss equivalent to an average swarm before the Dew arrival is in good order for laying. This has been so strongly impressed on my mind that for a long time past I have been experimenting, in the hope that I might ultimately be enabled to dispense with the introducing cage entirely. I am happy to say that I have succeeded beyond my expectations, and the method is so simple that the only wonder is that I had not thought of it sooner. Colonies with fertile workers, or those that have been long queenless without brood (as they are sometimes found in early spring), cause me no trouble whatever, as I can give them a laying queen without her ceasing her work except for the few moments that she is being transferred from one hive to another. When a queen is sold with a swarm another can be immediately inserted, and the queen of one colony can be exchanged with that of another without confinement, and none of the bees of the respective colonies will know the difference. It is generally known that the bees of one colony may be united with those of another by alternating their combs, and there is no disposition to fight. Having always succeeded in uniting them thus, I came to the conclusion that a queen on a comb with her own bees and brood would be taken no more notice of than the others, and this I have proved to be the case by continued and unvarying success. Taken from one hive and placed in another while parading among her own subjects and without being handled, the queen takes no notice whatever of the change, and thus her unconcerned behaviour saves her from any rude inquisitiveness. 1 have introduced them under all the respective conditions before mentioned by this means, and I have not met with a single failure ; and during the last two seasons I have been saved a large amount of extra work by this method, besides a considerable gain in increase in bees. As soon as the comb, queen, and bees are in¬ serted the job is done, and I never trouble to look at the hive again until its turn comes in the ordinary course of manipulation. The foregoing applies, of course, to queens reared in the same JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. February 1, 1883 ] 101 apiary when taken from nuclei or other hives with frames all of one size, as should be the case in a well-conducted apiary. If a nucleus cannot afford to lose the comb of brood taken from the queen it is easily replaced by one from some other colony. When queens come from other apiaries the mode of procedure is slightly different, though a state of things somewhat similar has to be introduced. An imported queen will never lay vigorously for the first few days, therefore it might be said, What delay would there be in encaging her ? There would be considerable delay if the present laying queen were at once deposed. To make the most of the queens first secure as many combs of hatching brood as there are queens to be introduced, and after cleaning them of every bee place each in a nucleus hive with a tight-fitting division board on cither side, put the queens in, and clo-e each so that no bees can get out, but give ample ventilation. Now put these nuclei into a moderately warm room for two or three days, when, many young bees having hatched and the queens nearly recovered from the effects of their previous confinement, each nucleus may be stood by the side of the hive its queen is to be introduced to, and the bees allowed to fly for a day or two before being united to the full colony. As soon as the imported queen is laying nicely on her one comb the condemned queen can be removed and the former inserted on her own comb with the bees at one and the same operation, and no notice will be taken of her. By reserving the condemned queen till the moment the other is introduced the colony receives no check whatever. The single comb is quite enough for the new arrival for nearly a week, as, after her long confinement, she is some days before getting into full laying order. It will be observed that iustead of the usual way of allowing the bees to find out their loss, the exchange is completed before they are aware of the occurrence. I have no doubt many will still cling to the cage, but no advancing bee-keeper can afford to lose so much valuable time at the beginning of the season. My experience bears me out in stating that there is absolutely no risk whatever in introducing in this way, even in what might be thought most obstinate cases. — Samuel Simmins (in The American Bee Journal'). TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. John Green, Thorpe, Norwich. — Catalogue of New and Rare Plants. Louis Van Houtte, Ghent, Belgium. — Catalogue of Gesneriaceous Plants. W. P. Laird A Sinclair, Dundee. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. W. Lovel & Son, Driffield, Hull. — Select List of Strawberry Plants. Edmondson Brothers, Dublin. — Spring Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds, W. Wells, Redhill. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. Daniels Brothers, Norwich. — Illustrated Guide for Amateur Gar¬ deners. E. Webb & Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge. — Spring Catalogue , 1883. Thomas S. Ware, Tottenham. — Catalogue of Florists’ Flower and Hardy Annual Seeds. pn o e TO CORRESPONDENTS 1 %* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Vine Eyes (II. -82, it was unanimously resolved that the outside dimensions of the standard frame should be 14 inches long, inches deep ; the top bar to be three-eighths of an inch thick, bottom bar one-eighth of an inch thick, side bars a quarter of an inch thick. These dimensions do not refer to anything outside of the rectangle. It was also resolved that standard frames, duly stamped should be provided at 1.?. each. COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— JANUARY 31ST. Tiie supplies and character of business remain the same as last week. FRUIT. Apples . 8. d. s. 0 to7 d. 0 Grapes . fb. 8. 2 d. a. 0 to 5 d. 0 »» . Apricots . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Lemons . case 10 0 20 0 . d oz. 0 0 0 0 Melons . each 0 0 0 0 Cherries . . } sieve n 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 0 0 0 12 0 Oranges . 100 6 0 10 0 Currants, Black . i sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 „ Red.. . j sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen i 0 2 0 r, 1 0 dessert . dozen 1 0 2 0 Filberts . 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English tb. 1 6 2 0 Cobs . . .. 100 tb. 50 0 55 0 Raspberries . lb. 0 0 0 0 Gooseberries .. . t sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .... lb. 0 0 0 0 VEGETABLES. Artichokes . dozen 8. 2 d. s. 0to4 d. 0 Lettuces ... 8. 1 d. 8. Otol d 6 Asparagus . bundle 0 0 0 0 Mushroom s l 0 1 6 Beans, Kidney .... 100 1 0 0 0 Mustard & Cress ..punnet 0 2 0 3 Beet, Red . dozen 1 0 2 0 Onions . 2 o 2 (i Broccoli . bundle 0 9 1 6 Parsley . doz. bunches 3 0 4 0 Brussels Sprouts. . J sieve 1 0 2 0 Parsnips . . .. 1 0 2 0 Cabbage . Capsicums . dozen 0 6 1 0 Peas . 0 0 0 0 100 1 6 2 0 Potatoes . . . . 6 0 7 0 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Kidney.... 6 0 8 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 Radishes. . . . doz. bundles 1 0 0 0 Celery . bundle 1 6 2 0 Rhubarb . . . . 0 4 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Salsafy . 1 0 0 0 Cucumbers . each i 6 2 0 Scorzonera 1 6 0 8 Endive . dozen i 0 2 0 Seakale .... 1 0 2 0 Fennel . bunch 0 3 0 0 Shallots .... . tt>. 0 3 0 0 Qurlic . tb. 0 6 0 0 Spinach .... s 0 0 0 Herbs . bunch 0 2 0 0 Tomatoes .. . tb. 0 8 1 0 Leeks . bum h 0 3 0 4 Turnips .... . bunch 0 2 0 3 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. GOAT FARMING. {Continued from page S4.) After using tiie before-named precautions we need not be afraid of what is called in-and-in breeding, for when we have obtained a good family likeness of the type and character we advocate we must not think of change of blood outside the boun¬ dary of the families we have established. After years of care¬ ful selection amongst them we can safely use the best animals of each family for crossing with each other, either of males or females as may appear desirable. We may, however, after the desired type is fixed and the increased stock has got into other hands, go to them for a change, which may prove advantageous through the influence of soil and climate on which they may have been reared. Still we advise breeders to ascertain with jealous care that those animals obtained outside the boundary have been bred with the same objects in view as those by which the new type had been secured ; but the only safe means of continuing a breed for special and profitable purposes will be by the establish¬ ment of a herd book and society for the same objects that have induced cattle breeders to associate for the same purpose, and admit no animals except by a pedigree to be agreed upon as the basis. It must be remembered, also, that whatever difficulties may have occurred to persons engaged in the formation of a new type of Goat with special objects in view, that although the objects may have been obtained, yet the difficulty of maintaining intact the new style and type will prove greater than any which had attended the work of combination during the progress of cross-breeding, for the simple reason that Nature never stands still, but is either advancing and improving, or deteriorating and retrograding. Hence the animal we advocate, being a composite of various characteristics, will require extreme care and intelli¬ gence to prevent future generations either wholly or partially receding into one or other of the races from which they were originally derived. We will now suppose that the object of our ambition has been obtained, but in Goat-farming we may all have much to learn in their management. We will, therefore, now endeavour to com¬ bine in our observations as much as is known relating to the best system of treatment of the animal in its artificial state (for it will be certainly not in its original) either as a breed, or the conditions under which a herd of animals either in large or small numbers can be associated in future Goat-farming. We shall therefore lay before our readers not only the practice of other breeders of experience, but also our own ideas as to further im¬ provements which we shall suggest as desirable and likely to 104 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 1, 1883. contribute to profitable results. One of the first objects to be noticed is the fact that to obtain mohair in our climate the animal must be treated to a certain extent artificially, and in doing this we may no doubt collaterally secure a corresponding or additional advantage in the increase of milk and improvement in condition with a larger production of meat, and at the same time defend the animals as much as possible against accident or disease. The important point, however, is to protect the animals by housing in the winter months entirely, and partially in the summer, by either moveable or fixed sheds or shades, against the extremes of weather either of great heat or heavy rains, and thereby endea¬ vour to give them artificially the advantages which our choicest varieties enjoy in their native country — Asia Minor ; and this will no doubt prove of great importance in Goat -farming, especi¬ ally in obtaining commercial profits. Whether Goat-farming is to be carried out by a company having a large and sufficient capital at command, or by individuals upon a smaller scale, we propose to apply our observations, in order that the principles and practice may be adjusted to the require¬ ments of either large or small concerns. We will suppose that on choosing a farm suitable for our purpose that it should consist of dry soil, either of sand, chalk, or limestone subsoil, and quite dry and friable on the surface. It is also desirable that it should consist of two-thirds in pasture and the remainder in arable, so that the grazing may be obtaiped in summer, and the root crops, &c., the produce of the arable land, to furnish vegetable food in the winter, in very much the same way as takes place upon the majority of dairy farms for cows. It is also necessary that the pastures should be divided either by live fences if they exist ; if not, by iron fencing, for the latter will be required under any circumstances, as the animals will be sure to gnaw and destroy any live fences. These if required to remain must be protected by the strongest and largest pattern of galvanised wire net fencing not less than 5 feet high ; and even then it should be placed on the top of a dwarf bank about 14 or 2 feet high, the ground being lowered inside the fence and removed to form the dwarf bank, as this tends to make approach to the fence more difficult. The other kind of fencing should consist of a kind of moveable iron hurdle not less than 5 feet high, made with upright bar iron and looped at the top above the lateral bar, for points would be serious Fig. 24.— Me. J. b. Evans’ Angoea eam. in the event of accidental attempts to break the fold. Such moveable fencing would be available for all purposes on the farm, not only for division of root crops for folding, but also the division of the cultivated or pasture grasses. The nature of the sheds or shelter for the animals must be next considered ; and in order that the same may be available both in summer and winter they should be moveable, so that they may also be made a useful and necessary place and accom¬ modation for milking the animals at all times, as well as being their quarters for feeding and lying, the internal arrangements for which are very important in connection with the system and arrangements generally. It must be remembered that in case we raise mohair on the animals that any old building loaded inside with dust and cobwebs would seriously interfere with the cleanliness which is so desirable, and which is so much sought for by the animals in their native haunts and habits. We, therefore, recommend iron buildings, iron divisions inside, iron fixtures for various purposes, iron troughs for food, water, and salt ; in fact, for every item connected with Goat accommodation iron is the best material, and cannot be easily broken or gnawed by the animals. It is also more easily maintained in a state of cleanliness for all and every purpose, which is so important for animals carrying a fleece of mohair of great value ; it may even be necessary, with all and every precaution, found that insects may be bred in the fleece, but they may, no doubt, be removed by the use of the same means as required to destroy ticks or lice in sheep. At the same time it must be remembered that our new type of animals could never be curried or combed with the dandy brush in the same way as the best short-haired milking Goats are often treated, by reason of the length or hair and mossy fur next the skin upon all Goats valued for their mohair. In a herd of the description which we have indicated as desirable, we having various objects and productions in view, we should therefore have several departments or herds of different ages. The females for milking would be kept separate from the castrated males, the former being fed of producing milk chiefly, the latter more particularly for meat, or mutton as it may be called, and also mohair, and be sold at three years old just after being shorn. The kids also of both sexes, which would be weaned at about six weeks old and fed in a particular manner, must when separated from their parents be accommodated at a con¬ siderable distance from, and quite out of hearing by each other. February 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 105 The males or rams should have specially arranged quarters to themselves, and only leaving them when required for mating with the females. In all these various requirements numerous questions will arise as to cleanliness and health connected with their boxes or sheds, for the rams would live in the former, but the herds whilst in the sheds in summer time, which were moveable, would be dropping their dung, both liquid and solid, on certain selected spots, remaining only long enough to manure the land, and then the site would be occasionally changed during summer. In the winter whilst feeding under cover cleanliness and purity of the air must be obtained and maintained, and this cm be best secured by the flooring of earth which we have so often advised in the apartments and pens for all animals, and in Goat- farming this is advisable in all cases, for single Goats or for herds. The illustration (fig. 21) exhibits the type of Angora Goat im¬ ported into the Cape colony by Mr. J. B. Evans in the year 1879, which were the finest specimens of the breed that ever left their native country. The twenty-seven animals were valued at the sum of £2000 on their arrival from Asia Minor. (To be continued.) farms have been bought in so high in price, it is worth consideration as to the policy of holding over the latter lambing ewes to breed from again, because the wool and the fold during summer is a fair profit, especially as the numbers tell in favour when double the num¬ ber can be kept as stock and stores compared with fattening them as usual. The fatting bullocks in the boxes may now be fed liberally with cake and roots, and we recommend the home farmer when Potatoes are plentiful and dull of sale to give some to the bullocks for a month before selling them ; and if the tubers can be boiled or steamed conveniently before feeding with them they will complete the butcher’s animal in the best and most profitable manner. All young store cattle, both heifers and steers, will now be doing well if fed in yards and dry-lying sheds, getting cotton cake and any middling hay. The dairy cows which are dry and not likely to calve for a month or two should be fed sparingly of the most valuable food, as we fear the result of too high condition at the time of calving. WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — The sowing of Wheat will either now be finished or abandoned as hopeless, seeing that the rainy period has lasted so many months ; the horses will therefore be employed as soon as the land is dry enough in ploughing and plairting or drilling Beans. In¬ stead of drilling or planting in the ordinary way as formerly, the plan now we recommend is to use a drill attached to the presser either for Beans or Peas, separate or mixed, in which case the seed falls into the grooves formed by the rings of the presser, and is therefore well buried by two three-tines with the iron harrows. We do not advocate in seeding pulse crops the drilling of the seed after every ring of the presser, v’hich would bring the lines too near together to allow of horse-hoeing between the rows, but by drilling after every other ring of the two-ringed presser would place the rowrs at about 22 inches apart — a very fair distance for interculture in the early stages of growth. We advocate Yetches or Peas being grown as a mixed crop. As soon as the Yetches or Peas begin to spread they will effectually keep down the weeds and produce an enormous crop generally ; but, at any rate, in those seasons vThen the black or green aphides appear (they seldom both appear in the same season), therefore one crop or the other is almost sure to escape their attacks, and thus making a mixed seeding more certain of a full crop than either of them drilled separately. Laying out manure on the Clovers has not been done, as the land in most cases would not bear treading without injuring the young Clover or Grass plants, therefore the yard manure has been carted to heap where the fields on which it is to be used lie wide from the homestead in readiness for the root crops, such as Mangolds and Potatoes. We advise that in the cultivation of Potatoes in the future that half-acre plots of the newest varieties should be planted as an experiment every year, and in this case the varieties which answer best on the home farm may be cultivated in the next few years, for we hold that in the event of the newly raised sorts proving good croppers the chance is more certain of not only obtaining a full crop, but also of keeping them free from disease. We also recommend the trial and growth of the largest and best cropping sorts, such as the White Elephant and one or two others which produce large tubers and prove abundant croppers, that they be grown with the ob¬ ject of selling them when it can be done at advantage ; if not, let them be used for feeding dairy cattle engaged in butter-making, the plan being to feed with Potatoes, hay, and crushed Wheat, as being the only materials which will yield not only the best quality of winter butter, but also the greatest quantity ; for it must be remembered that although Potatoes may be dearer than Swedes or Mangolds at per ton, yet an acre of Potatoes may contribute as much butter, and of far better quality than other roots. Live Stock. — We still hear a great deal of complaining in certain districts of sheep rot spreading ; but we ask, Why should sheep be kept at all in the best grazing districts and accompany the bullocks during the summer, when it ought to be well known that they injure every pasture (as well as run the risk o* rotting) by eating out all the finest herbage and white Clovers, and seriously deteriorate the future feeding value of the grass, especially for fattening bullocks ? Many early lambs of the Somerset and Dorset cross are now ready for the market, and really ought not to be sold unless they will make a long price, for, although they may be held over to make mutton as regards weight, they will pay better for so doing instead of selling them at the ordinary lamb weight of 10 tbs. or 12 tbs per quarter. There is this year a superabundance of root food, and if the lambs are kept to be heavy weights they will pay better for the extra grazing than to be sold at light weights. Nothing but the want of money or scarcity of keep ought to induce the owners of lambs to sell them now the stocks of sheep in the country is short by upwards of 5,000,000, un¬ less a very unusual price can be obtained. The Down lambs are now falling fast, and it is fortunate that as yet we do not hear of many losses of lambs; and keep is so plentiful that both ewes and lambs ought to be found in high condition. In fact, as sheep on the vale ABOUT A DOBKING CHALLENGE CUP. All that Mr. Harrison Weir writes about Dorkings is worthy of most attentive consideration, first because his recollections of the breed date back far beyond those of most present poultry fanciers, or at least to a period when they paid no attention to poultry ; and secondly because he seems to have a keen eye for the real beauties of the breed, derived, no doubt, from early ac¬ quaintance with it, and a still keener perception of the faults too often to be found in modern Dorkings. It is, therefore, in no controversial spirit, but solely with the object of improving a useful breed, that we proceed to give a few reasons in favour of our suggestion of a challenge cup being offered for Dorkings, which Mr. H. Weir seems to think could do no good. We gave some of them roughly in a former article, but perhaps it will be convenient to recapitulate them in order, and then to consider Mr. Weir’s objections to our scheme. 1, We have seen a great impetus given to the Game fancy by the offering of a challenge cup. 2, In former days when the prizes for Dorkings at Birmingham were pecuniarily far better than they are now the entry, as old catalogues will show, was much larger. Whether the quality of the birds was better is a matter of opinion. Many old Dorking fanciers think that it was. May not this decline in entries have some connection with the reduction in the prizes offered ? 3, We have reasons for thinking that there are many good yards of Dorkings, probably of the oldest and purest strains, which are not now shown, and from which consequently fanciers have no opportunity of buying. Their owners might be attracted by the rumour of a really valuable cup, and be induced to exhibit them. 4, Those who already breed and show would be incited to more spirited enterprise in procuring good stock, more care in mating their birds, and more attention to the points which are really indications of pure Dorking origin. 5, Might it not be that with this increased responsibility on their hands the judges, of whom Mr. Weir gravely complains, would also take extra trouble, before judging Dorkings, really to study the characteristics of the pure breed 1 We will now look at the chief objections urged against our sug¬ gestion. They seem mainly to divide themselves under two head¬ ings — 1, That true Dorkings do not exist ; 2, That even if they did there is no one capable of judging them. 1, Probably the Dorking, as Mr. Weir once remembers it, is a very rare bird indeed. Unless we are mistaken he told us some months ago in these columns that the farmers’ wives who once had the breed in purity and perfection have them no longer, and say that they know not where to go for fresh stock. Surely there must be some reason for this. There seems no denying the fact that the then Dorking was unsurpassable as a table fowl, but why should it have become so nearly extinct ? Because, we have every reason to think, from in-breeding or other causes it was so delicate a race that it could not be perpetuated. Some cross was absolutely necessary to keep it alive. No doubt had there been the com¬ munication between fanciers and breeders that there now is, and the knowledge of poultry and of the difficulty o.f getting good table fowls, there would have been judicious exchanges between the owners of stocks of the pure old race, and so it would have been kept up in purity ; but there was not. The first bird that came to hand of large size and tolerably like a Dorking in characteristics was used, and so some of the good points of the old Dorking were lost, though increased vigour of constitution has confessedly been gained. Granting for argument’s sake that JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 106 [ February 1, 1883. there are no Dorkings left such as there were forty or fifty years ago, it seems to us a strange conclusion to come to that fauciers are therefore to throw up their hands and give up Dorking-breed- ing in despair. If there are no Dorkings to judge and no one who could judge them if there were, the argument would prove more than the present case requires. The Dorking classes should be cut out of the schedules of exhibitions. To us the point for a Dorking fancier now to aim at seems to be to get back any excellence and beauty of the old breed that has been lost, and to combine it with the hardihood of the modern breed. There are surely some birds to be found with purely white legs, and some with the correct round meaty breasts, and some devoid of the Asiatic cushion — a sure sign of impurity. From these an intelligent breeder ought to regain the correct type of Dorking by degrees, even if he cannot obtain birds of the old strain. We are not, however, by any means so certain that he cannot do so, but have a great idea that here and there in neighbourhoods where fanciers of bygone days dispersed them, they are still to be found at farms and gamekeepers’ cottages. About six or seveD years ago a lady sent birds to Birmingham peculiarly good in all the points which Mr. Weir considers dis¬ tinctive ; they stood high in the prize list, and we were ourselves glad to purchase some of them. On making inquiry we found that they were from birds picked up here and there in the neigh¬ bourhood of Inchmarline, the remnants of the stock which Mrs. Arbuthnott once made so famous. Our contention, then, is that probably the old strains are not entirely lost, but that even if they are, by careful selection of the best birds of the modern race we ought to breed back to the old form, retaining the stronger con¬ stitution of the modern bird. 2, As to judges. “Who,” says Mr. Weir, “should act as judges 1 ” This is, of course, a ‘highly important point, but rather to be settled by the committee of the show where a challenge cup should be awarded than by us. We will not here give names, but we cannot but think that there are several judges in whom fanciers have sufficient confidence to entrust the task to them. As a rule, we are strongly in favour of individual responsibility and single judging ; but in such a case as this we should be much inclined to suggest the employment of three judges, and we believe that three might well be chosen who would be “ strong enough to act up to the proper standard and insist upon what is right.” Into further detail it would be absurd to go, when the idea is ours and has not yet been ventilated. — C. POULTRY NOTES. Shortly after the Crystal Palace Show a weekly illustrated contemporary published a page of what purported to be illustra¬ tions of cup-winners at the show. Fanciers generally were amused, and the owners of the birds somewhat annoyed that such caricatures should go forth as representations of prize birds in these modern times. They recalled the poultry illustrations of forty years ago, when there were no artists capable of adequately treating such subjects as prize poultry. We felt inclined to pro¬ test at the time, but came to the conclusion that all those really interested in the subject here would take the illustrations for what they were worth. Now, however, we find in an American journal (the Prairie Farmer ) a reproduction of these so-called portraits, and we think it only right to assure our American friends that they no more resemble the birds they pretend to pourtray than the earliest imported Cochins or Brahmas resemble the birds of these breeds now shown. It is wonderful what a number of keen fanciers there are in the north of Scotland. The show at Aberdeen a week or two back was a remarkably fine one, which, with such a Secretary as Mr. Cowe and such a really hardworking Committee, is not to be wondered at. Many of the breeds were quite as good as are to be seen in the south. The Langshan particularly seems to have established itself firmly in the northern climes. It has a Club with a standard of excellence of its own, it is numerously exhibited, and the average of the specimens is far superior to that seen in the south. The winning birds were grand specimens of poultry, whether regarded from a mere artistic or from a fancier’s point of view. If our southern friends could succeed in establish¬ ing a type of Langshans as well here as the northern type appears to be established, we should hear less of hostile criticism as to the antecedents of these birds. Dark Brahma hens, again, have not been injuriously affected as to size by judging for pencilling only to anything like the same extent in the north that they have here. The winning Dark Brahma hen was a truly grand specimen of the breed ; large, shapely, well feathered, and well marked with that sort of marking which can be had without loss of size. D ukings again, especially Silver-Greys, are well grown and well shown in the north, but we see there the effect of too great laxity on the part of the judges as to dark feet. These are far too prevalent, and should be stamped out. Several prizes were with¬ held on this ground. White-crested Polish are generally deemed a somewhat delicate breed. At least one exhibitor in Aberdeen does not apparently find them hard to get on with there. The hens especially were a splendid collection to come from one yard. We were somewhat surprised to find that Scotch Greys were not more numerously represented. Their home seems to be rather in the lowlands of Scotland. Mr. Comyns, who acted as Judge, had a somewhat severe task, as the poultry numbered nearly six hundred. The leading distinction between Aberdeen Show and Belfast Show, upon which we have now to say a word or two, is, that whereas at Aberdeen nearly all the prizewinners are of home growth, at Belfast, which is by far the best managed show in Ireland, many of the exhibitors, and amongst them rather too many winners, come from England. The Irish northerners do not seem inclined to exclude foreign manufactures, in the poultry line at all events. They are perhaps wise, as at a really leading show like Belfast it is desirable that exhibits of the very best quality should be seen by Irish fanciers who may not have an opportunity of visiting leading English shows. This season the Irish exhibitors made a better stand than they sometimes do. In Dorkings Messrs. Smyth are of course hard to beat anywhere, and they were here once more successful. Mr. Comyns’s Dark Brahmas also gained a fair share of prizes, and the same may be said of Mr. Robertson’s Cochins. All these names, however, are known at English shows. Game Bantams seem to be making considerable progress in Ireland. They were numerous and good, as were also the variety. Bantam classes, the Judge. Mr. Leno, declaring that the winners (Sdver Sebrights) were about as good specimens of the breed as he had seen for some time. In Turkeys, Geese, and Ducks Messrs. Birch as usual showed the Irish exhibitors how much can be done by careful breeding and feeding. Poultry Club rules were observed, and Mr. Waters (the Secretary) deserves a special word of recognition for his energy and uniform courtesy. OUR LETTER BOX. Malt and Rye Flour (t V. H.). — We have made inquiries on the subject, and regret we are unable to inform you whence you can obtain the above, and the only thing we can suggest is that you purchase malt and rye and have it ground and dressed by a miller. If any of our readers can name any vendor of malt and rye flour we will supply you with the information. Scaly Legs (A. S.). — The disease is caused by a parasite, and is easily curable if it have not gone too far. Mix flowers of sulphur and lard, using as much of the sulphur as the lard will take up. Anoint the legs plentifully with this ointment. After the lapse of twenty-four hours or so wash well with warm water and a hard brush. Repeat treatment until the scales disappear ; you may also give some cooling medicine. The disease is contagious. If you prefer it try the effect of vaseline used as above, and kindly let us know result. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40'' N. ; Long. 0° 8 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. HATE. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. O cJ Hygrome- a . 5 3 ^ Shade Tern- Radiation l8fc‘o gw 72 > ier. perature. Temperature. C5 s’S.O January. 5 'z a"5 t- <-*• £ pH In On Dry. Wet. Qo Max. Min. sun. grass. Inches. deg. deg. dea. deg deg. deg deg. In. Sun. 21 30.394 45.2 44.6 S.E. 43.7 40.4 43 8 49.3 36.6 0.014 Mon. 2 2 30.540 41.0 40.2 E. 43.8 46.4 40 3 51.4 35.7 _ Tues. 23 30.671 33.7 32.7 s. 42 6 39.2 32.4 55.1 28.3 — Wed. 24 30.314 33.9 32.3 s.w. 40.3 37.4 28 8 40 8 24.5 0.2 IS Thurs. 25 29.855 36.3 34.5 W.N.W 30.3 43.3 33.3 73.9 30.4 0.007 Friday 28 29.214 38.4 34.1 N.W. 89.5 46 0 34.6 73.4 27.4 _ Satnr. 27 29.716 38.2 35.8 N.W. 38.8 50.2 33.1 61.2 29.0 0.278 30.072 382 36.3 41. 1 44 0 85.2 57.9 30.3 0.607, REMARKS. 21st. — Misty and dull ; fine moonlight evening. 22nd. — Fine and dry ; sunshine in forenoon. 23rd. — Bright, calm, and cold. 24th. — Fair ; very cold wind ; slight sun in evening. 25th.— Fine and bright ; gale at night. 26th. — Violent gale in early morning ; bright clear day. 27th. — Fine at first ; afterwards rain and very squally, especially at 3.44 p.M. Temperature near the average, air drier, and much wind, especially on the 26th and 27th.— G. J. SYMONS. February 8, 1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 107 8th fn Roval Society at 4 .30 P.M. 9th F Quekett Club at 8 P.M. 10th S 11th Sun 1st Sunday in Lent. 12 th M [11 A M. Annual General Meeting at 3 P.M. 13 th Tu Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees at 14th W Society of Arts at 8 P.M. stiff that most CULTURE OF LILY OF THE VALLEY. r^^Ti^ILIES of the Valley are esteemed every¬ where, hut unfortunately they do not succeed equally well in all gardens. In some cases the plants do not flower well, and in others without any care the flowers are produced in great abundance. The diversity of result may arise from a variation of soil and situation, hut except in some very peculiar instances I have never failed to grow these plants satisfactorily in any soil that has been properly prepared. In a soil, which though retentive of moisture, and on account likely to suit them, they have given the trouble, as although the plants grew freely and increased fast, few flowering crowns in proportion to those that gave no flowers were produced. This was attributed to the plants being too thick on the ground —the plantation too old. A fresh plantation gave no better results, and others in shaded and open situations were equally unsatisfactory. In the same kind of soil, however, plants on a south border flowered freely, which was unquestionably due to the ripening of the growth. In a shaded wood plants growing in light sandy soil, the roots and crowns all in the 3 or 4 inches depth of surface soil composed of decayed vegetable matter, were all that could be desired. In light and loose soil plants grew well but flowered very poorly, so much so that it wras deemed inadvisable to devote so much space to them ; but when the ground was made firm by treading it, the growth the following season was much more sturdy, the plant had stouter foliage, and the flowers were abundant. In the loose soil the plants grew well, in the firm soil they flowered well. The Lily of the Valley is a moisture-loving plant, but it does not grow naturally where there is water lodging in the soil. Shade, however essential it may he to the plants in a wild state, is not needed in culti¬ vation ; in fact north borders and shady positions have only the supposed advantage of lessening the necessity for watering, but the small number of flowers compared to those grown in an open situation is a direct less. Choose, therefore, an open sunny situation, and if the site be not well drained naturally it must be made so by taking out the soil a foot deep and putting G inches depth of drainage — any brickbats, stones, or rubble will be available, placing the roughest at the bottom and the smallest at the top, and in addition to this there must be tile drainage to carry off the super¬ fluous water. Where the subsoil is of a dry7 sandy or gravelly character the drainage may be dispensed with. Light sandy soil is the most suitable enriched with at least a third of leaf soil or well-reduced manure. Thoroughly mix these together when rather dry, so as to admit of the compost being trodden down firmly. Six inches is a suitable depth of soil, and in this the plants should be placed out 2 inches asunder in rows 4 inches apart, the base of the crowns being slightly beneath the surface. A bed 4 feet wide will hold twelve rows, the outside rows 2 inches from the sides of the alleys, which need only be 12 inches wide. Water if necessary with a rose watering pot, and cover the whole bed with 2 inches thickness of sandy soil and well- decayed manure in equal proportions and thoroughly mixed. Planting may be done in February or March. The after course of treatment is to water once a week when rain does not fall to the extent of half an inch, giving a thorough soaking, employing liquid manure after May through the summer up to the beginning of September. Weeds must be removed as they appear, and in autumn after the tops have died give a top¬ dressing of well-decayed manure an inch thick. In the third season, or after two seasons'1 growth, they will be in perfection, and will continue for a number of years to flower abundantly ; but after six or seven years they become so crowded, and consequently weakened that they need renewal. When the object is to raise crowns for lifting to be forced there is no difference as regards the preparation of the soil ; but the plants may be inserted in rows 3 inches apart and 1J inch asunder, and after two seasons’ growth they will have formed cowns of flower¬ ing size. The whole of the plants should then, or not later than the third season, be lifted, selecting the flowering crowns, which are more plump and round than the others. The latter will be good for planting in fresh beds. By making beds every year a regular succession of crowns can be obtained equal to those imported. Where clumps are required to be lifted for forcing it will be found much better to plant twelve to eighteen crowns in a circle not exceeding 5 inches in diameter, distributing them evenly and working some soil amongst them, keeping all the crowns on one level, and dis¬ posing the clumps 9 inches apart in rows 15 inches asunder, than to rely on cutting out clumps from old beds in which there is certain to be a number of non¬ flowering crowns. The others, if well attended to with water or liquid manure through the summer in dry weather, will in two or three seasons be very strong and in fine condition for forcing, the clumps being cut out with a long-bladed knife just clear of the crowns, The whole may then be lifted, the beds renovated with fresh compost, and the crowns that have been formed outside the clumps replanted. Forcing. — If it is desired to have flowers of Lily of the Valley in early winter, plants that have perfected their growth early are unquestionably the best for this purpose. If the demand be great roots can be pl-nted out in heated pits, allowing a distance of a foot from the glass to the soil. The first season the growth should be allowed to be made naturally, the lights being withdrawn in mild weather when the outside tempera¬ ture is 50°, air being admitted freely on other occasions, so as to prevent the temperature exceeding 50° to 55°. Water must be liberally supplied, also liquid manure, during the season of growth. After the middle of June the lights may be removed altogether. In the follow- NC, 1793.— VOL. LXTX,. OLD SERIES. No. 137.— Vol. VI., Third series. If---—- --- - -■ . — ■ ■ - 108 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. rebmary 8, isss. iii" season start the plants into growth in January, maintaining a temperature of 50° to 55° artificially after the growth is fairly started, and above which ventilate freely, keeping through the day at G0° to 65° from sun heat. As the season advances the temperature through the day should he kept at 70° to 75°. Supply tepid liquid manure, and damp the plants on fine afternoons with tepid water from a fine-rose watering pot. Early in July the lights may be re¬ moved and the growth will ripen early. The following season they will he fit for forcing, which may be com¬ menced shortly after the foliage has died. If the bed is at all dry give a thorough soaking with tepid liquid manure, and keep the temperature for the first fortnight at 50° to 55°, and afterwards at G0° to G5°. Flowers will expand in about six weeks. The plants must not be neglected after flowering, but have the treatment con¬ tinued as in former years, and they will be available for forcing again A bed will continue yielding flowers for a month, so that the succession may he maintained by starting beds at intervals, those in cold pits pre¬ ceding those in the open by fourteen to twenty-one days. Similar results may he secured by plants in pots that have been forced, hut they must be grown in a light position, and be well supplied with liquid manure during growth, and be properly hardened off before placing them outdoors after midsummer. Such plants can be readily forced at an early season and do not require bottom heat. The above method of forcing entails considerable labour, but, all things considered, it is the most econo¬ mical in the end. Under ordinary circumstances the crowns once early forced are not again available. For an early supply a bed may be made of dung and leaves in a heated pit, and when this has settled tread it firm, so that the surface is a foot from the glass. Put on 3 inches of light rich moist soil, and insert the crowns in rows 2 inches apart and an inch asunder in the rows, firming it about the roots, and having the top of the crowns level with the surface. Make sure that the heat at the surface does not exceed 90°, and is not less than 75° at the commencement. Cover the crowns with an inch depth of cocoa-nut fibre refuse or other light material. If there he any deficiency of moisture in the soil water must he given in a tepid state before covering the crowns. Place a single thick¬ ness of mats on the lights, nailing it down to prevent displacement by wind, ’but to the framework of the light only, so as not to necessitate the removal of the mat when the light is to be drawn off. The top heat should be maintained at 60° to 65°. In a month flowers can be gathered, and they will keep good for about three weeks in a temperature of 50°. Clumps may be forced in a similar manner, but they and the single crowns will come without the foliage if started before the new year ; therefore, if foliage be needed, non-flower¬ ing crowns should be inserted at the same time as the others, but need not be covered with mats, or the leaves will be yellow. No ventilation is given, for the sun is not powerful enough to affect them, and the flowers lose nothing in delicacy and fragrance. In February and onwards it is advisable, as the plants produce foliage along with the flowers, to grow them in the light, a temperature of G0° to G5° artificially and 5° to 10° rise from sun heat being suitable. If forcing is not commenced before January bottom heat is not necessary for clumps ; yet they must not be brought forward too rapidly, or they will come up without the foliage, and if placed in too much heat will not start into growth at all. They never ought to be allowed to become dry when at rest. For single crowns bottom heat is essential, yet less is needed than in autumn and early winter. At no time ought it to be less than 70° to 75°. They can be readily forced in a frame over a bed of fermenting materials, the requisite heat being maintained by linings, or in fact in any warm structure where there is command of bottom heat, covering them so as to insure the spikes being drawn to a good length. Handsome specimens may be had for the sitting-room by placing single crowns in pots an inch apart in light soil, plunging in a hotbed and inverting pots of larger size over ihem, so as to elongate the stems or spikes, and when of sufficient length gradually inure them to light. The Lily of the Valley season may commence in November or even earlier, and close with early June, growing some plants on a north border with a view to have them as late as possible.— -G. Abbey. HOME CULTURE OF ORANGES FOR DESSERT. The late Mr. Thomas Rivers of Sawbridgeworth was very sanguine that the culture of Oranges would spread to large dimensions in England, and that we would he able some day to walk under the shade of Orange groves, enjoying the sweet perfume of the flowers and the delicious flavour of the fruits far richer than the best to be obtained from “ the Clime of the East, the Land of the Sun.” Many wealthy owners of gardens might do worse than form an Orange grove in their garden, and many that are not wealthy might enjoy the pleasure of eating their own home-grown Oranges. Mr. Rivers in his excellent book, “ The Orchard House,” states how they may be grown, and he shows us also practical examples of trees heavily laden with their golden fruit. We have several trees now of the St. Michael’s variety and the Maltese Blood, the branches of which are bending with the weight of the ripening fruit. The trees fill odd corners either in Pine house, Cucumber house, or vinery ; they require a high temperature when the fruit is ripening, and the trees like a good compost of sub¬ stantial loam well enriched with decayed manure and crushed bones. The peaty-looking stuff in which the continental trees are potted is no use for growing good dessert fruit. Keeping the trees quite clean is absolutely necessary to insure success. — J. Douglas. [An Orange tree laden with “ golden fruit ” exhibited by Mr. Douglas at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society a few years ago was one of the best examples of culture we have ever seen, and suggested that home-grown Oranges might be produced in many gardens where there are heated structures and sui able “odd corners” for standing the trees.] ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND EVERLASTING FLOWERS. Dried Grasses and flowers are so extensively employed for room-decoration, more especially during the winter months, that it may be interesting to those who are unacquainted with them, and who are desirous of cultivating them, to enumerate some of the most desirable kinds. The varieties to which attention is directed have the merit of being easily grown by everyone who possesses a garden, and do not require the aid of any special process in drying, but simply to be gathered, and when dry placed on one side until they are required for use. What are known as ornamental Grasses comprise a consider¬ able number of beautiful varieties remarkable for their con¬ spicuous silvery flower plumes, their flossy inflorescence, or the graceful appearance of their exquisite structure. So varied in their forms are these that they admit of being arranged in very elegant bouquets, or when tastefully disposed in vases with JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. February 8, 1883. ] 109 what are popularly designated Everlasting Flowers they be¬ come objects of great beauty, altogether differing from the stereotyped bunch of dyed moss and artificially coloured flowers and Grasses. In addition to being useful in a dried state Grasses when judiciously introduced in epergnes of fresh- gathered flowers contribute greatly in producing the lightness that in a skilful arrangement is always so pleasing. Among those best suited for this purpose the following may be selected — viz., Agrostis nebulosa, Agrostis pulchella, Briza maxima, Briza media, Eragrostis elegans, and Lagurus ovatus ; and for dried bouquets, in addition to the aforenamed, A vena sterilis, Bromus brizseformis, Bromus patulus, Chloris barbata, Festuca rigida, Hordeum jubatum, Melica altissima, Penisetum longi- stylum, Phalaris canariensis, and Uniola paniculata. These may be treated exactly the same as hardy annuals, although some of them are of more than annual duration. Seed of any of them can be obtained at a trifling cost, and if sown in March or April in the open ground, the plants after being well thinned require lit lc attention. It is well to gather the flowers in different stages of development, rejecting ihose that are approaching ripeness, as when dry these will not be of good colour, and, moreover, will be disposed to fall to pieces. To dry them it is only necessary to expose them to the influence of the sun and air, and when fairly dry they should be tied in bunches and placed away in paper-lined boxes un il required for arranging into bouquets. It is best to procure plants of the perennial tall-growing species, but it must not be expected of them to flower the first season of planting. Being gene¬ rally supplied by nurserymen in po:s they can be obtained throughout the year. But perhaps the best month for plan ing them out is April, when the roo s are in active growth. Arundo conspicua, Erianthus Ravenna}, and Gynerium argen- teum represent the section, the former being an admirable decorative plant when in flower, and much resembles the Pampas Grass (Gynerium argenteum), but is of a neater habit of growth and possesses the advantage of coming into flower much earlier. The time to gather these is when the spikes are about to emerge from their sheaths ; by so doing the plumes when dry are of snowy whiteness, and present a very beautiful appear¬ ance. Nor should it be omitted to mention with regard to their blades, how much they contribute to the graceful appear¬ ance of an arrangement of flowers when introduced after having been carefully shreded, as seen in the exhibits of table decorations at our chief floral gatherings. The remarks made as to gathering Grasses applies equally to Everlasting Flowers, of which the subjoined may be chosen as deserving of being more generally grown. Acroclinium roseum and Acroclinium album are two of the prettiest of the com¬ paratively neglected annuals that can be mentioned, but the introduction of a new double form of the first-named, intro¬ duced for the first time this season, may be the means in some degree of bringing the merits of the older varieties into popular notice and favour. Ammobium alatum, Catananche bicolor, the many varieties of Helichrysum, the Rhodanthes and Xeran’hemums, if only for their profuse-flowering qualities, and independently of their value as dried flowers, have a claim on growers of annuals that appears to be not sufficiently recognised. Honesty (Lunaria biennis) is mentioned here on account of the pretty silvery silicles of its seed vessels, which are so admirably adapted for placing with some of the species of ornamental Grasses in large vases. Plants raised from seed sown during the ensuing season will produce their large lilac flowers the following summer, and these are succeeded by the seed vessels which contain the silicles. The stalks bearing them should be gathered before the seed commences ripening, so as to prevent discoloration, and when dried they are readily prepared for use. — S. P. E. S. PRUNING GOOSEBERRIES. I WAS pleased to see in the Journal several letters on this subject, and if I may give my experience I should say, Do not prune Gooseberries. I live in a rather windy locality, and as I found the storms injuring the crops of the Cabbage family I made a hedge of Gooseberries. That was done twenty years ago, and I can safely speak in favour of non-pruning, for when the bushes became about 3 or 4 feet high I gathered more fruit from this hedge than all the trimmed bushes in the garden. This induced me to discontinue pruning except those branches that over¬ spread the ground ; and I have now miniature trees or bushes with not a new shoot on them. They bear wonderfully well, they never fail, and the spring frosts do not affect the fruit when in blossom. I have always a good crop, and am so satisfied with the results that I have not pruned Red Currants for several years, which I am glad to say also answers. After the bushes become a certain age and size they do not make new wood, and the branches only produce spurs or fruit buds. — R. H. D. SENECIO PULCHER. Everyone who is once fortunate enough to see a good strong plant of “ Tyerman’s Groundsel” in flower in October generally falls in love with it “ right away.” Its flowers are larger and of more substance than our large Ox-eye Daisy, and are of a clear and bright magenta carmine with a golden disk, eight or ten blooms being borne in a corymb-shaped mass at the apex of its stout, succulent, leafy stems. As it rarely ripens seeds and divides but badly, I very soon found after its introduction that cuttings of its quill-like roots would grow if cut into lengths about an inch long and inserted in a sand-surfaced pan of soil as cuttings. We make and put in these cuttings in November as soon as the plants have finished blooming, and place the pan on a shelf near the glass roof of a warm greenhouse. In about three weeks each cutting first splits open as shown in our cut, then they turn green where their tops are exposed by the action of the watering-pot, and finally one or more green-leaved shoots appear, as also shown in our illustration. In this simple way an old plant yields forty or fifty cuttings, 75 per cent, of which will make plants to bloom the second or third year. — B. W. COLLECTIONS OF SEEDS. Absence from home, and consequently inability to refer to “our Journal,” has prevented my replying to Messrs. Carter and Co.'s letter on page 7 on the above subject. I quite recognise the fact that being able to prepare a large number of boxes before the busy season commences is a great boon, so much so, indeed, that I did not even mention it, thinking it must be patent to all ; nor do I for one moment believe that any house can “ make up a box to please everybody.” I can also say, after having dealt with them for twenty-three years, that their seeds are generally very good. Thus far we are at one ; but I do object to be quoted wrongly. I said, “ There were enough of those valueless to me to sow a good portion of the garden whereas I am made to say, “ There were enough of those valueless sorts to sow a large garden.” They were “ valueless” to me because I did not require them, and “sowing a good portion of the garden” and “sowing a large garden ” are very different matters. As to the contents of the boxes, 5 quarts and 1 pint of Peas in six varieties would be preferable to the same quantity in eleven varieties, as two sorts seldom boil well together, and a sufficiency for a dressing cannot always be had from small sowings after the 110 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 8, 1883. first picking. As a rule, enough Beans of all kinds are annually saved here for seed, as well as Onions, Parsnips, Tomatoes, Melons, Cucumbers, and Marrows. Spinach does not find much favour, so 1 oz. instead of four would be ample ; therefore 4^ pints of Beans and eleven packets of other seeds would be useless to me, and in an order would c f course be left out. Last year was not favourable for saving seeds ; still those mentioned were secured with little extra trouble. Whilst I was away a seed catalogue arrived for ray host. I remarked, “You still deal with Messrs.- - I suppose?” The answer was, “ No, I used to have a guinea box, but there were so many things I did not care for that I have given up that mode.” Since that, when walking through a friend’s houses, I asked the head gardener if he bought collections of seeds. He said, “No, because there are so many things I don’t want. When seedsmen first sent out their boxes they would take out sorts I had and put in a quart or so of Peas instead. They won’t do that now, conse¬ quently I never buy them.” I am in this dilemma : I must either buy, say, a guinea box containing many things which I have in abundance, or pay 26s. or 27s. for a far less quantity. It has been suggested that if we were to send our orders, as proposed in my former letter, not later than the middle of Novem¬ ber it would give plenty of time to execute them before the busy season, and then perhaps seedsmen might see their way to allow a good per-centage off catalogue prices when they made their “ own selections,” the same as florists do with varieties of plants.— C. T. H., Dorset. A CHRYSANTHEMUM ELECTION. In compliance with the frequently expressed desire of many cultivators, we a few weeks ago invited all who were disposed to do so to select what they considered the best forty-eight varieties of incurved Chrysanthemums for exhibition purposes, arranging them in three groups — first twelve, second twelve, and remaining twenty-four varieties. The response has more than equalled our expectations. No less than eighty returns have been sent in from the leading cultivators, and we think all the districts are repre¬ sented in which special attention is given to the culture of this increasingly popular flower. In addition to selections from many successful growers in what may be termed the metropolitan area, lists have reached us from Liverpool, Birkenhead, Birmingham, Bristol, Chesterfield, Southampton, Newcastle-on-Tyne, North¬ ampton, Manchester, Leicester, Plymouth, Lublin, and Guernsey. The election, therefore, is of wide scope, and as it embodies the judgment of prizewinners and adjudicators at most of the prin¬ cipal exhibitions the results are entitled to some weight ; indeed we may go further, and say that the outcome of this united effort to determine the relative merits of the different varieties is the best, most complete, and authoritative selection of incurved Chrys¬ anthemums that has ever been published. Counting the votes in elections whether of individuals or of flowers not infrequently leads to surprises. Confident antici¬ pations are often rebuked and foregone conclusions shattered. If anyone asks, What is the use of an election of Chrysanthemums ? the reply is, The increasing number of requests for lists of the best varieties after selections have been given again and again by ourselves and others well able to give them. Something more than the choice of one or two individuals has been required, and now it is afforded. But it may have been, and has been observed by some, that “any grower knows which are the twelve best varieties, and therefore an election is not needed.” The facts are, however, decidedly against the accuracy of this judgment : for so far from “anybody” being in possession of this information we find, as the first surprise, that not one of the eighty electors named all the varieties that received the aggregate number of votes for placing them in the highest position. Again, it was thought by not a few that only a very limited number of varieties would be selected, and the majority of those in commerce, good as they might be, would remain unnoticed. The contrary has been the case ; and this brings us to the second surprise and curious fact, that in the seventy-seven lists submitted, of which the votes were counted, just seventy-seven varieties were named as worthy a place in the first twelve. The three remaining lists arrived too late to be included, but we have satisfied ourselves by a careful examination that they would not have altered the relative positions of the best flowers. The total number of Chrysanthemums that have been named in the lists is 156, which exceeds the varieties of the same type enumerated in the majority of catalogues. Many varieties have been named by several cultivators as identical with others that are named, or too closely resembling them. The returns under this head, or an analysis of them, will be published in a future issue, and will certainly not be the least interesting and instructive feature of this election, although it is not unlikely that the accuracy of some of the individual decisions may be questioned ; still there will be such a consensus of opinion in regard to many of the flowers that will amount to a verdict that will meet with general acceptance. It only remains to be explained that the figures in the first column of the following table indicate the number of first-class votes, or votes recorded in favour of the varieties being placed in the first twelve ; the number in the second column representing second-class votes, or those entered for the second twelve varieties ; the third, as is apparent, containing the total number of votes recorded for each variety in the list. We have not tabulated any varieties that received less than five votes, but we add them at the foot of the list ; nor, considering the great number of sorts included, has it been necessary to add a column for third-class votes for the remaining twenty-four varie¬ ties, as those that do not find a place in either of the two twelves Daturally fall into the remaining category, and the general estimate of them is expressed by the relative number of votes recorded Result of the Tolling. 1st Class Votes. 2nd Class Votes. Total. 1. Prince Alfred 61 *■ 13 74 2. Golden Empress of India 64- 9 73 3. Princess of Wales 65 * 7 72 4. Empress of India. . 65- 6 71 5. Jardin des Plantes 45 . 25 70 6. Queen of England 50 19 69 7. Barbara 37 . 30 67 8. Princess of Teck . . 27. 39 66 9. Hero of Stoke Newington 41 . 21 62 10. Mrs. Heale . 41 , 17 58 11. Mr. Bunn . . 31 . 25 56 12. Ladv Hardinge \ . 25 31 66 13. John Salter 41 11 52 14. White Venus 17 32 49 15. Refulgence . 32, 15 47 16. Nil Desperandum 18 27 45 17. Mrs. G. Rundle .. 16 18 44 —18. Prince of Wales . . 15 28 43 19. Alfred Salter . . . . 28 16 42 20. Venus 9 27 36 21. Mrs. Dixon 11 21 32 22. Cherub . 8 24 32 23. Mr. G. Glennv 8 21 29 24. Princess Beatrice. . 5 24 29 25. Lady Slade 6 22 28 26. Bronze Jardin des Plantes 6 21 27 27. White Globe 7 17 24 28. Novelty 7 16 23 29. Mr. Br unlee? 6 16 22 30. White Beverley ' . . 8 13 2L 31. Golden Queen of England 11 9 20 32. Eve . . 7 13 20 33. Isabella Bott 6 14 20 34. Mrs. Haliburton . . 6 14 20 35. Baron Beust 5 15 20 36. Golden Beverley . . 4 15 19 37. Empress Eugenie. . 7 10 17 38. Lord Derby 5 12 17 39. Emily Dale . 6 10 16 40. Beauty 5 10 15 41. Mr. Howe . . 11 3 14 42. Mrs. Shipman 3 11 14 43. Miss Mary Morgan 5 7 12 44. Guernsev Nugget. . 5 7 12 45. Lady Talfourd 1 10 11 —46. Pink Venus 3 7 10 47. Beverley . 0 10 10 48. Pink Perfection . . 2 7 9 49. St. Patrick. . 1 8 9 - 50. Mabel Ward 2 6 8 "51. Sir StafiTord Carey 2 6 8 52. Blonde Beauty 2 6 8 53. Golden Eagle 0 8 8 54. Lord Wolseley G 1 7 55. Mr. Gladstone 4 2 6 56. Incognito . . 2 4 6 57. Antonelli . . 1 5 6 58. Mr. Cullingford . . 2 3 5 59. Golden John Salter 1 5 6 60. Beethoven . 0 5 5 61. Angelina . 0 6 5 62. General Bainbrigge 0 5 5 The varieties that secured less than five first and second-class votes were as follows : — White Queen of England, Hercules, Le Grande, Duchess of Manchester, Mr. Corbay, Belladonna, Enamel, Countess of Dudley, Virgin Queen, Lilac Princess, Queen of the Isles, Fingal, Gloria Mundi, Snowball, Monarch, Clarissa, Orange Perfection, Mount Edgcumbe, and Aimee Ferriere. The following were only included in the lists of second twelves, and each obtained less than five votes : — Aureum multiflorum, Miss Februar JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. Ill Hope, Abb6 Passaglia, Mrs. Cunningham, Faust, Beauty of Stoke, La Belle Blonde, George Peabody, Cassandra, Miss Thurza, Rev. J. Dix, Hereward, Golden G. Glenny, Lady St. Clare, Albert Smith, Rifleman, Donald Beaton, Rev. C. Boys, Boadicea, Princess Louise of Hesse, Princess Alexandra, Nonpareil, Her Majesty, Model, Mr. James, Dr. Rozas, Laurinda, Plenipo, Mr. H. Morgan, Lady Carey, Caractacus, Mrs. Sharp, Marchioness of Lome, and Marechal Duroc. In the third list of twenty-four varieties most of the foregoing were named, and in addition the undermentioned varieties were included in a few of the return®, but none obtained more than five votes : — Mr. J. Laing, L’Orient, Golden Dr. Brock, Miss Mard- chaux, Captivation, Ossian, Themis, Arihur Worthly, Vesta, Ion, Boule de Neige, Admiration, Hermione, Hetty Barker, Hackney Holmes, Lady Russell, Album Formosum, Little Pet, King of Denmark, Dr. Lindley, Exquisite, Cleopatra, Rotundiflorum, C. E. Waters, Lady Godiva, Princess Marie, Madame Fold, Duke of Roxburgh, Talbot, Cassandra, Duke of Edinburgh, Crimson Velvet, Mons. Bonamy, Candidissimum, Alma, Plutus, Countess of Gran¬ ville, Golden Ball, Little Harry, Formosum luteum, Mr. Jay, Mrs. Shaw, aud Aregina. Returning to the tabulated list giving the result of the election, we find that the following varieties secured the highest number of votes in the first twelve, as is indicated in the first column — viz., Princess of Wales, Empress of India, Golden Empress of India, Prince Alfred, Queen of England, Jardin des Plantes, Hero of Stoke Newington, Mrs. Heale, John Salter, Barbara, Refulgence, and Mr. Bunn. These are arranged according to the respective number of votes each obtained ; and it will be noticed that the result is most satisfactory, for a stand of good blooms of the varie¬ ties named would, if well set up, be exceedingly difficult to sur¬ pass — in fact, we cannot see how the selection could be improved. There is a due proportion and diversity of colours, including two whites, three yellows, one amber, three dark varieties, two blush, and one rose. The premier varieties in the first twelve are Princess of Wales and Empress of India, each of which obtained sixty-five votes ; but the former is entitled to precedence owing to its securing seven second-class, while Empress of India had six in that class ; and though Prince Alfred heads the list in the total number of votes, yet it is fourth in the first twelve. Golden Em¬ press, though following the last-named variety in the general total, precedes it by three first-class votes. Taking the varieties which were accorded the greatest number of second-class votes, as shown in column 2 of the table, and excluding Barbara, Jardin des Plantes, Mr. Bunn, and Queen of England, which came into the first twelve, we have the follow¬ ing, which are also named in order of their votes— Princess 'Peek, White Venus, Lady Hardinge, Prince of Wales, Nil Desperandum, Venus, Cherub, Princess Beatrice, Lady Slade, Mrs. Dixon, Mr. G. Glenny, and Mrs. G. Rundle. These give the following colours — three whites, three yellows, two dark varieties, two rose, and two blush — also a good proportion. It will be seen that most of these varieties secured a good proportion of first-class votes, but not sufficient to oust the larger-floweied varieties which have obtained so marked a preference. To decide the best twenty-four we have selected those with the highest total number of first and second-class votes together after excluding those which have gained places in the two twelves. In that way the undermentioned varieties have taken the lead — Bronze Jardin des Plantes, White Globe, Novelty, Mr. Brunlees, White Beverley, Golden Queen of England, Eve, Isabella Bott, Mrs. Haliburton, Baron Beust, Golden Beverley, Empress Eugdnie, Lord Derby, Emily Dale, Beauty, Mr. Howe, Mrs. Shipman, Miss Mary Morgan, Guernsey Nugget, Lady Talfourd, Pink Venus, Beverley, Pink Perfection, and St. Patrick. Of course, if it were desired to select twenty-four varieties for exhibition they would be chiefly chosen from the first twenty -four, and those last named can only be considered as affording a surplus in case the others should be unsatisfactory, and the same remark applies to the first twenty-four ; for instance, if a stand of twelve were required the varieties could be selected from the leading sorts named in the two twelves, as more scope would thus be allowed. Amongst other notable peculiarities in the result table it is noteworthy that Mr. Howe and Golden Queen of England each obtained eleven first-class votes, which is the same number as Mrs. Dixon, though the latter gained a place in the second twelve by a majority of eighteen votes over Mr. Howe, and of twelve above Golden Queen. Mr. Bunn and Lady Hardinge secured pre¬ cisely the same total number of votes — viz., fifty-six, but strangely reversed, Mr. Bunn having thirty-one first and twenty-five second ; while Lady Hardinge had twenty-five first and thirty- one second. Mrs. Dixon and Cherub are also equal in total votes ■ — namely, thirty-two each, but the former has eleven first and twenty-one second, while the other has only eight first bu twenty-four second. Mr. G. Glenny and Princess Beatrice are similarly alike in the totals — twenty -nine each, the first leading by three first-class votes. Golden Queen of England, Eve, Isabella Bott, Mrs. Haliburton, and Baron Beust have all equal totals, Golden Queen surpassing them all by three first- class votes. Several other cases of equal totals occur, but they do not need special mention ; however, the comparatively high position which Lord Wolseley obtained as a new variety that was exhibited for the first time during the past year is remarkable, and Mr. Orchard, the fortunate raiser, states that if the variety were in commerce he would give it a place in the first twelve. It is strange that, taking the proportion of first to second class votes, the sport should have a higher place than its parent Prince Alfred. As previously stated, not one of the seventy-seven returns that we have tabulated included the whole of the varieties that have obtained places in the first twelve, and one only comprised eleven of them, which was sent in by Mr. George Burden, Lingdal Lodge, Oxton, Bkkenhead, who is therefore entitled to the premier position as an elector. Twelve returns included ten of the first- class varieties, and were from the following : — Messrs. W. Bardney, Norris Green, Liverpool ; John Bradner, Arley Hill Nursery, Bristol ; N. Davis, GO, Warner Road, Camberwell ; S. Dixon k Co., Hackney ; J. Foster, Greenbank, Wavertree, Liverpool ; G. Harding, Bristol House, Putney Heath ; C. Herrin, Chalfont Park, Slough ; H. Langford, Coleraine House, Stamford Hill ; G. Mease, St. MichaePs Mount, Liverpool; W. Mease, Wyncote, Liverpool ; G. Stevens, St. John’s Nursery, Putney ; and W. Tunnington, Calderstone, Liverpool. Eighteen named nine varieties : — Messrs. John Baylis, Winter- boun e, near Bristol ; Beckett, Sandown House, Esher ; E. Cherry, Norfolk House, Streatham ; E. S. Cole, Woodside, Sneyd Park, Bristol ; A. R. Cox. Elm Hall, Wavertree, Liverpool ; Draper, 2, Primrose Hill, Northampton ; C. Gibson, Morden Park, near Mitcham ; S. Gilbey, The Cazenoves, Upper Clapton ; G. Langdon, Brooke House, Clapton ; Thomas Lead better, Bromborough Hall, Cheshire ; S. Mahood & Son, Windsor Nurseries, Putney ; E. Molyneux, Svvanmore Park, Bishops Waltham ; Monk, Leyton- stone, Essex ; J. W. Moorman, Coombe Bank, Kingston-on-Thames ; C. Orchard, Coombe Leigh, Kingston-on-Thames ; G. Stacey, York Street, Harborne, Birmingham ; John Strong, Thames Street, Weybridge, Surrey ; and W. Todd, Dingle Bank, Aigburth, Liverpool. Eleven returns included eight of the first-class varieties — viz., the following Messrs. E. Berry, Roehampton, Surrey ; W. Burns, Wykham Lodge, Horsham, Surrey ; Cochrane, Finsbury Park, N. ; James Garaway & Co.. Bristol ; Thos. Hobb=, Lower Easton, Bristol ; A. Holmes, Hawthorns, Clapham Park ; J. Holmes, Nightingale Lane, Clapham ; Lansdell, Barkby Hall, Leicester ; J. Lyne, Belvedere, Wimbledon ; Pope, Northbrook House, Southampton ; and C. J. Salter, Selborne, Streatham. The remaining electors named less than eight first-class varieties, but they with those previously mentioned are equally entitled to our best thanks for the cordial and ready manner in which they have given us their assistance. EASTER BEURRE PEARS. I think there are few subjects connected with the cultivation of fruits harder to understand than the variation of Pears in size, flavour, and keeping qualities in different soils and situations. About ten years ago 1 took charge of a garden on the Bagshot sand formation. One of my first occupations was to plant a selection of fruit trees, including Pears, and many have been my disappointments as old favourites have proved quite useless, although the same varieties had done me good service on other soils. It would occupy too much of your space to relate all my failures. I will only say, that having a vivid recollection of sending a grand lot of Easter Beurre for dessert in February from a tree that grew on a south wall in the neighbourhood of Don¬ caster, I concluded that trees would do well as pyramids on a warm soil so much further south, and so planted s:x trees of that variety. They have borne a few fruits each year, but they were very small, very much cracked, and quite devoid of flavour until the last season, when they grew to a moderate size, did not crack, and the flavour was all that could be desired. I planted one tree of the same variety on a wall with a south¬ west aspect that has given us much finer fruit, but the flavour has never been g*od. Last year it bore a good crop, the fruits of average size, about 8 ozs. We are using them at the present time, but they are very mealy, not to be compared with those grown on the pyramids which were about half the size, and, strange to 112 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 8, 1883. say, were ripe two months ago. I might write pages on the uncertainty of the time at which Pears will ripen at different seasons, one kind keeping good until Christmas, as a rule, then the nest year upsetting all our calculations by ripening in October, but it would be only a waste of time and paper, as I know of no way of retarding them. This last autumn four kinds that should have kept until December were all gone by the end of October, while one kind that has always been ripe in October was good and firm in December. — G. B. CROTON LEAVES IN FLOWER GLASSES. Anyone who has a number of flower glasses to keep supplied with cut flowers during the winter and spring months) often finds it more difficult to obtain a supply of fresh Fern fronds than flowers, especially during the spring, as the fronds are cut as soon as they appear, and they keep fresh for a very short time in such a young state. For the last few years when filling our flower glasses we have always furnished a few with Croton leaves of different varieties, and find them both useful and effective. Large trumpet-shaped glasses with a few arching leaves of Croton Warreni give a graceful appearance, and for smaller glasses the leaves of the old variegatus section answer well, and save both Ferns and flowers. The plants that we denude of their foliage for this purpose are such as have been used for room-decora¬ tion. Those plants when put back to their old quarters, the stove, generally lose all their leaves by degrees, and it is best to cut them down and let them start afresh. — David Murray, Culzean Gardens. THE POTATO DISEASE. At the recent annual meeting of the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland held at Edinburgh, Mr. Jas. L. Guild, Abbey Farm, North Berwick, moved “ That, as the cultivation of the Potato is rendered very precarious owing to the ravages of disease, and as it appears that the best mode of resisting it lies in the raising and intro¬ ducing new varieties, it be remitted to the Directors to encourage the same by the giving of premiums or otherwise.” In supporting his motion Mr. Guild said, “ From the time of its introduction to the year 1845-4(3 the Potato grew and flourished in almost perfect health, but in that year a dreadful calamity suddenly overtook it. It would be interesting to know what the meteorological conditions of that year were, so that we might try to account for the collapse which took place ; but at any rate, it seemed as if a fiery vapour had passed over the land, for in a few days what were to appearance healthy plants were nothing but blackened shaws from one end of the country to the other; and so much dependance had come to be put on the plant in some quarters, especially in Ireland, that the result of its failure was disastrous, and an amount of famine and loss of life took place which was, happily, unknown before from such a cause in the annals of the country. From that year to the present no season has been entirely free from blight, and for the last ten years — owing, I suppose, to the amount of moisture and other atmospheric causes — disease has been rife, and great loss has been sustained by farmers. I have heard and know of whole fields being actually ploughed up owing to the quantity of sound tubers being too limited to pay the cost of lifting. That the cultivation of the Potato has raised the value of land is undeniable. In East Lothian alone I would estimate the rise from this cause at £2 an acre. Farmers have been growing Potatoes on land which was never intended by Nature to be used for that purpose, and the disease has been so bad on that class of soil that their cultivation will have to be given up, and rents reduced to their old figure. To show the great importance of the Potato culti¬ vation, and the loss sustained by disease, I have made the following calculation. Of course, my figures are open to criticism, but I do not think I am guilty of any exaggeration. The total number of acres grown in the last ten years in Scotland, as given by the Board of Trade returns, is 1,682,627. I would estimate the average crop grown at 5 tons an acre, making 8,413,135 tons. Then the amount of disease per acre I wrould put at 20 per cent., or one-fifth, making a loss of 1,612,726, at say £3 a ton . £5,047.881 But from this I deduct 75 per cent., used for cattle-feeding or other purposes — viz., 1,261,970 tons, at £1 . 1,261,970 And leaving a total loss to farmers and the country of . £3,785,911 If the whole of Great Britain be taken, the loss by a similar calcula¬ tion is three rimes as great, being upwards of £10,000,000, or over £1,000,000 a year. I do not intend to take up the time of this meeting in speculating as to what is the origin or cause of this disease, it is sufficient for my purpose that the enemy exists, and that to an alarm¬ ing extent ; but I believe there is now little doubt that it is a vege¬ table fungus w’hich first attacks the leaves, and is the result of fer¬ mentation under certain conditions of the atmosphere. Now, I am quite well aware that commissions have sat, inquiries have been made, experiments have been tried to prevent or mitigate the plague, but hitherto without much success. While saying this, however, I must compliment Herr Jensen of Denmark on the energy he has shown on the subject ; but the result of the experiments which have been con¬ ducted with his plough this year in East Lothian have not, I am sure, been, even to his own mind, very satisfactory. There is one way, and one only, by which the disease can be over¬ come, and that is raising new varieties ; and I trust that this meeting will show by their vote their sense of the importance of the subject. It has been proved beyond doubt by actual practice that the various sorts have a limited term of life. Where are all the sorts which were cultivated twenty years ago ? The end has been the same in each case. They got too tender and liable to disease, and had to be given up. The once famous Regent is now practically in disuse. Pater¬ son’s Victoria will soon follow. But that is not the worst feature in the case. Fifteen or twenty years ago there was an endless number of varieties ; now there are only five or six in general cultivation, and all these are more or less diseased this year. To crown all, I know of only two new varieties ready to take their placp, and everything points to the need of a society such as this stepping into the breach with substantial encouragement. I am sorry the Directors of this Society have seen fit to oppose my scheme. I have heard the argu¬ ment used that it should be left to individual enterprise, there being plenty of payment in bringing out a new variety. Was there pay¬ ment to the rearer of the Victoria or Champion ? But even supposing there was, I deny that that removes the responsibility from this and kindred societies : that argument is utterly untenable. Why does this Society hold shows and give large premiums to the best of the different classes of stock? Is it not to encourage the rearing and breeding of that stock ? There is no reason why the rearer of the best varietv of new Potato should not also obtain a premium. Is it not the object of this Society to encourage, not one branch but all branches of agriculture ? If that is so, then I leave my motion with confidence in the hands of this meeting. I consider that in times like these, when agriculture has received such a shock, that it is particu¬ larly the duty of a society such as this to do everything in its power to foster and encourage farming in all its branches, and I make bold to say that it will stultify itself if it refuses this small modicum of help to agriculture which I propose.” Mr. Gardiner, Chapelbank, seconded the motion. Mr. Scott Dudgeon, Longnewton, said the Society were indebted to Mr. Guild for bringing forward this matter. He did not think the yearly loss was over-estimated at £10,000,000, for in 1879 the loss in Ireland alone was £8,000,000. The Directors, however, had not opposed the motion, but in the present stage of their funds they did not think they were justified in making a grant. A select Committee of the House of Commons sat on the subject two years ago, and agreed that the only hope of repressing the disease was by the creation of new varieties, and the Committee was of opinion that the Government should appoint in each country a superintendent to conduct the necessary experiments and furnish such new disease-resisting varieties. He moved that they memorialise the Government, and draw attention to the report of the Committee of 1880, ask what had been done, and press that the recommendations of the Committee be carried out. He had written to Mr. Barclay, M.P., on the subject, and had received a telegram stating that he did not think there was any hope of the Government doing anything. The amendment was seconded, but after some further discussion’ Mr. Guild's motion was carried by a majority. — ( Irish Farmers’ Gazette.) CHRYSANTHEMUMS AT KINGSTON-ON-THAMES. In further reply to Mr. Douglas I have to say that it resolves itself simply to this — 1st, That the whole horticultural press must be wrong or that Mr. Douglas is right. Let me quote the Gardeners' Magazine, November 25th, page 645 : — “ The other end of the Hall was occupied by a collection of specimens of the most magnificent character from the gardens of T. H. Bryant, Esq , Surbiton.” “ The most important of the specimens were those exhibited not for competition by Mr. C. Beckett, gardener to T. H. Bryant, Ecq., Glencairn, Surbiton. These numbered about thirty, and comprised standards, pyramids, and dwarf-trained, the latter measuring from 5 to 7 feet in diameter, and all were splendidly flowered and highly finished. The dwarf-trained specimens were unquestionably some of the very finest that have ever been exhibited, and the liberality of Mr. Bryant and the skill of his gardener were warmly eulogised by the visitors to the exhibition.” I believe the Gardeners' Chronicle said, “ Trained specimens were poorly represented if we except the magnificent collection at the end of the Hall exhibited by Mr. C. Beckett, gardener to T. H. Bryant, Esq.” I need not multiply quotations, your Journal was equally unanimous. I should not have been so offended at Mr. Douglas’s remarks had he not acted as a Judge at the show. Further, he left it two months before he ventures his opinion. However, it will take a much cleverer man than Mr. Douglas to alter a fact, and I most February 8, 18^3.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. emphatically re-assert all that I stated in my former letter. — T. H. Bryant. AN AMATEUR’S HOLIDAY. Twelve months ago I drew attention to the distinctive features of a few nurseries, without a visit to which any holiday would be unsatisfactory. You may allow me without detail a glance at one or two of these. Although abler pens than mine have lately dealt with some of them, I have noticed a few plants that were either new or rare. I need not say that I found the broader features of each establishment, as the Roses of Belmont and Newtownards ; the Pansies and Pinks of Paisley; the Pansies, Phloxes, and Pentstemrns of Pinkhill, more than well sustained. I said a yer.r ago that it would be difficult to produce improvements on such flowers as the Pinks and the Pentstemons we already had. In consonance with his convictions as to the early planting of Pansies when done in spring, Mr. Paul has already issued a circular. It is mainly occupied by the fine new sorts about to be sent out by him. It contains, however, six new Pinks. I have seen these both in the nursery and on the exhibition table. That they are added to the collection is sufficient guarantee of their excellence; I consider two of them at least unsurpassed. Mi'. Downie’s new Pentstemons, too, such as Mrs. Heywood and William McConnachie, register yet another advance. I think I may fairly claim acquaintance with the Pink and the Pentstemon in many of the best varieties, and I am glad the growing of these two beautiful flowers is becoming more general among our amateur florists. Were it not that I shun the editorial sheateur, I would, in the hope of enlisting more recruits into our ranks, dilate yet further than I have formerly done upon their attractions. In one of the houses at Belfast I noticed the Passiflora quad- rangularis with its large and striking blooms, and in the open air Lilium longiflorum Wilsoni, w'hich was there of dwarfer habit than I have since seen assigned to it. A very attractive house of show and fancy Pelargoniums in beautiful condition was one of the many sights at Belmont. By much the best Dahlias I saw were at Newtownards. They were remarkably good fur any season, especially so for the last. The Tea Roses were even then rapidly ripening their wood, and were too great a temptation to be resisted. How a dozen or two will succeed with me out of doors remains to be shown. At Rothesay I found Mr. Dubbie engrossed in harvesting his French Marigolds. I saw the large quantity of his equally fine A ters which he had previously secured in capital condi¬ tion, ai d had a look over his Pansies, among which were some fine new varieties in the different sections. At Pinkhill I saw the new black Grape which ought to be. first- rate, honoured as it is to bear the name of John D nvuie. It has already been noticed in the Journal. I repeat by ro'.e that it combines the best properties of the Muscat and Gros Colman, and I was lately told that its keeping qualities are quite satis¬ factory. I saw also in one of the houses a plant, nut then in bloom, which I had never before heard of — a black Richardia-like plant. The flower is in shape and size like the ordinary Lily of the Nile, but in colour and texture like black-silk velvet. Sir. Downie, I believe, obtained it from a gentleman who a few years ago brought it from its native habitat in Egypt. Contrast recalls another flower that I heard of on the same day when, in the Royal Botanic Gardens, Mr. Lindsay pointed out a plant of Gentiana acaulis of which the flower is white. In the Pilrig Nurseries I observed a very large plant of Veronica Andersonii and Saxifraga MacNabiana, with a sturdy habit and white and crimson blooms, both very desirable flowers. The plant of Marechal Niel at Pilrig, mentioned by a correspondent some time ago, covers nearly 50 feet by 24 feet of the glass. It seems to produce flower buds almost all the year round, but the require¬ ments of the other plants in the large house do not permit it having the treatment it would require for their development. 1 saw several fine buds on the last day of September. I quote the statement of a gentleman then present that there is a plant of the Marechal at East Linton that is perpetual. This is a short prelude to a sketch of some nurseries further north which will be given in a future issue. — A Northern Amateur. Clematises as Isolated Specimens. — Clematises as specimens on the lawn are very beautiful when well trained and attended to. At Holme Lacy, Hereford, such specimens may be seen, and during the months of August and September they are pillars of bloom, and are much admired. They are planted out in well-prepared round beds, and trained to an upright round trellis about 7 to 8 feet high ; they are about 2 feet G inches in diameter at bottom, and taper to the 113 top. As the young growths appear they are tied down for about two months. It they are allowed to grow straight up at first the base does not get properly furnished. As the plants increase with age tie or peg some of the old wood at pruning time down close to the ground, and regulate the other up the trellis as required, when, if properly trained, at flowering time they are one mass of bloom from the ground to the top of the trellis. — A. Young. <: F. P. D.” writes as follows concerning Carbolic Acid and Glycerine as an Insecticide: — “The value of carbolic acid for destroying mealy bug and other horticultural pests is testified to by your correspondent 1 C. P. P.’ Like many others, however, he appears to think the acid is nearly insoluble in water. The fact that the addition of a little glycerine to the acid before its dilution renders it perfectly soluble in water is not generally known. Anyone who takes the trouble can, however, in this way secure a perfectly reliable insecticide of any strength required.” - A large cultivator of Potatoes in Kent informs us that Magnum Bonum is now, and has been for some time, realising the highest prices in the London markets, and he states it is the same in most other large markets in the kingdom. - We shall shortly place before our readers estimates of Potatoes for table use and market purposes which have been sent to us by many of the leading cultivators in most of the counties in Great Britain and Ireland. As the nature of the soil, time aud mode of planting, manure employed, and an outline of culture are given in most cases, information of practical value is provided at an opportune time — the eve of the planting season - A correspondent in Surrey sends us some blooms of the Japanese Chrysanthemums Meg Merrilees, Cry Kang, and Ethel, which are remarkably bright and fresh for this time of year, aud we should be glad to have a few notes from him respect¬ ing the method of culture he has adopted. - The Dundee Horticultural Society will hold a Floral Fete on August 23rd, 24th, and 25th of the present year, when a large number of valuable prizes will be offered for plants, (1 avers, fruit, and vegetables, 203 classes being enumerated in the schedule. The financial report for the past year states that the S ;cie»y has a balance of £324 in its favour. - Mr. John Leslie, The Gardens, Springkell, Eeclefechan, writes : — I enclose table of Rainfall registered here for each month during the year 1882. You will observe that July has the heaviest rainfall. We had during that month some of the heaviest showers that ever were known in this district — January 1'64 inch, February 8'77 inches, March 2 97 inches, April 411 inches, May 2 2 inches, June 4 34 inches, July 10 8 inches, August 4'44 inches, September 2 33 inches, October 3'55 inches, November 3'95 inches, December 4 01 inches ; total 48T1 inches.” - There is evidently a good demand for Christmas Roses — i.e., Hellebores, for we have recently noticed that several florists in the metropolis are charging 3 d. per bloom for them. These aie chiefly of the large-flowered pure white variety of Helleboius niger maximus : but even some of the smaller forms realise good prices, and in Uovent Garden they are freely employed in bouquets. Indeed, a really fine flower of maximus is but little inferior to a Eucharis bloom, and some prefer the former, as the latter has a bad centre for bouquet work. We have heard of a grower who states that he has realised £G0 in one season by forcing Hellebores early and sending the blooms to special markets. 114 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 8, isss. - Mr. E. P. Brotherston sends a good flower of Chrys¬ anthemum Fair Maid of Guernsey, which he states is the first produced by some plants upon which he has been experi¬ menting with the view to obtaining late flowers. Though rather loose the bloom was attractive, and such flowers would prove use¬ ful at this season. Perhaps he will relate his mode of treatment. - We have received from the Science and Art Department, South Kensington, a notification respecting the St. Petersburgh International Horticultural Exhibition and Botanical Congress that is to be held this year, and to which we have previously referred. - “ There is nothing,” writes a correspondent in reference to CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS, “ which causes so much disappoint¬ ment to the amateur as, after spending 5#. upon a small packet of choicest seed, to find the plants produced bear blooms which are worthless. This has just happened to me with a large batch of Cinerarias. Had I known what the seed was I would not have accepted it as a gift. It is very trying to find one's money, time, and trouble all wasted and the house cumbered with plants fit only for the refuse heap as soon as the blooms expand.” - In Covent Garden Market Orchid flowers now form an important portion of the florist’s stock at nearly all seasons of the year. At the present time the useful Dendrobium nobile is strongly represented, many cutting the entire growths instead of sending the flowers singly. Some richly coloured varieties of this Orchid are frequently seen, and they are difficult to surpass ; but some of the bouquetists have a curious method of arranging Dendrobium flowers with the lip uppermost, which has an unnatural appearance, though the colour in the lip can be seen better. Odontoglossum Alexandra and 0. Pescatorei are evidently indispensable, while Laelias, Cattleyas, and many others in their season are largely represented. - A correspondent writes : — “ In an essay by Dr. H. P. Walcott upon Chrysanthemums and their culture, which was read before the Massachusetts Horticultural Society early in the present year, and reprinted in the American Cultivator, occurs a statement which will somewhat astonish those who are familiar with English exhibitions. After commending the system of cul¬ ture adopted here, the essayist states that ‘ only incurved blooms are shown at the great London shows.’ It would be difficult to understand’whence the doctor obtained this piece of information, and he certainly cannot read the English horticultural periodicals very carefully, or he would not have committed so strange a blunder.” - Mr. Foster informs [us that he has placed the entire stock of his Foster’s Seedling^ Potato in the hands of Messrs. Pennell & Sons, nurserymen, Lincoln. This variety, it may be remembered, was, after being tried at Chiswick, awarded a first- class certificate by the Boyal Horticultural Society in 1881. - An excellent cultivator and competent judge of Orchids sends us the following note on Dendrobium Leechianum (D. nobile X heterocarpum) : — “ Mr. Swan has sent fresh flowers of three of the best forms of this charming hybrid Dendrobe, all distinct in size'[and colouring, but characteristically alike in structure and parentage. Mr. Swan has bloomed eighteen plants of this fine hybrid this season, some of the varieties closely ap¬ proaching D. Ainsworthii (which is of the same parentage), while others are as fine, if not even finer, than D. splendidissimum. All are beautiful, and Mr. Swan and his worthy employer may well feel proudly gratified at having reared such a free-blooming and useful hybrid to their collection, wherein, we believe, D. Leechi¬ anum is unique.’ - We learn from the Essex Times that a presentation to Mr. James Douglas was recently made by the scholars and teachers of the Congregational Sunday School, Barking, where he has been teacher and superintendent for the past nineteen years ; and as he is about to leave Loxford Hall Gardens for Mr. Whit- bourn’s new estate, Great Gearies, it was thought a fitting oppor¬ tunity to accord him some recognition of their esteem. The pre¬ sentation took the form of a handsome marble timepiece and a pair of tazzas to match. - “ J. J.” writes : — “ A short time ago a note appeared in the Journal from the Irish larmers' Gazette in which it was stated that it 1 had been demonstrated that dwarf plants of Luculia gratissima with fine heads of flower can be grown in 6-inch pots.’ If any of your correspondents can give instructions for doing this I should be much obliged. I have had partial success, but I have never been able to maintain a plant in good health. The plants sent out from nurseries are generally poor specimens struggling for life ; and when visiting some of the best nurseries to choose one with a determination of making one more attempt to grow it, I have never succeeded in finding anything worth having. Why is this ? It is a beautiful plant, and as sweet as beautiful. Can no one solve the problem of its easy culture ? ” - Very attractive in the Orchid House at Kew just now are several plants of L^elia albida, which is one of the prettiest of winter-flowering Orchids. The flowers are pleasingly fragrant, of moderate size, and are borne five or six near the end of a raceme 18 inches to 2 feet long. The sepals and petals are narrow, pure white, the lip being white, streaked with purple at the base and having a yellow ridge in the centre. A variety termed bella is also grown, and is easily distinguished from the species by the sepals and petals being tipped with purple, affording a charming contrast to the pure white blooms of the ordinary type. Both succeed well on blocks in a warm house. Lmlia furfuracea is flowering freely on a block, the pale mauve sepals and petals being tipped with purple, the lip of a similar colour, with the wings white. In the same house Ornithidium Sophronitis, a diminutive Orchid, is also noteworthy for its numerous small orange-scarlet flowers ; and in a small pot suspended from the roof it both grows and flowers freely. The fragrant Dendrobium aureum perfumes the East Indian house most agreeably. One fine specimen is flowering abundantly, its long-noded growths having in some cases twenty or more flowers borne in pairs and triplets. The sepals and petals are yellow, the lip orange or brownish. It is grown in a basket, the stems being somewhat pendulous. - The official returns of the wine harvest in Algeria for the past year show rapid progress in the cultivation of the Vine in the French dependency, although in France itself, owing to the ravages of the phylloxera and the bad weather, the very reverse has been the case. The total area of land now devoted to viniculture in the provinces of Algiers, Constantine, and Oran is 23,724 hectares (about 59,000 acres), of which 19,700 hectares produce the black, and 4,024 the white Grape. In 1878 the total area was only 17,614 hectares. The yield of wine during last year was 400,197 hectolitres (about 9,500,000 gallons), showing a considerable increase as compared with the returns for the preceding year. - Toronto in Canada, following the example of Chicago, is engaged in laying out A boulevard which is to encircle the whole city, and is to consist of a road 100 yards wide, adorned occasionally with flower beds. A “ Rotten Row ” or riding alley is also to be provided, and the whole is to be preserved and kept in order at the public expense. The similar boulevards at Chicago are a great success, and are much appreciated by the citizens of that densely peopled city. - In Signor Berti’s project for replanting forests in February s, 1883 ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 115 Italy, the sum of about forty-eight million francs is thus dis¬ tributed among the different provinces : — Piedmont, seven millions ; Lombardy, nine millions ; Yenetia, two millions ; Liguria, two and a half millions; Emilia, eight millions; the Marches and Umbria, one a half million ; Tuscany, two millions ; Lazio, 139,000 ; Meridional Adriatica, four millions and a half : Sicily, three millions ; Sardinia, five millions ; Meridional Tirrena, 2,800,000 francs. - In the Journal of Forestry for the present month Dr. Lyons, M.P., has an able and exhaustive article upon the Re-afforesting of Ireland, which we commend to the attention of all who are interested in this important subject. Dr. Lyons has chiefly considered the matter in an historical point of view, stating the means by which the extensive forests that once existed in Ireland have been gradually destroyed, and also the remedial measure adopted or advocated at intervals during later years. - The Manchester City News records the death of a well- known local botanist, Mr. W. Horsefield, which took place on the 17th ult. “He was born April ICth, 1816, at Besses. His father was John Horsefield, who died in 1854. This John Horse- field was a botanist well known in his day throughout Lancashire, and, like many northern botanists, he was a working man. His son William, brought up in a home where botany was the constant subject of conversation, acquired a love for that delightful science, and from his boyhood he entered heartily into the study of it. He was much given to botanical excursions, and in company with another well-known botanist, James Percival, he rambled over some of the most beautiful parts of Yorkshire and Durham. For many years he was President of the Prestwich Botanical Society, and for upwards of twenty years he filled the office of postman at Whitefield. He was highly respected in the neighbourhood in which he lived a3 a man whose character was without reproach.” PEARS AND APPLES IN THE NORTH. Comte de Lamy is the most satisfactory and prolific Pear I had this year. I have only three trees — one against a west wall, the other two bush fruit trees which have not been much pruned, but allowed to extend their outer branches as they were alongside a wire fence. All three trees fruited this year and ripened well. Like all other districts we suffered from the severe gale of April 29th. I was away from home at the time in Devonshire at Torquay. I had left my trees behind a most promising mass of bloom, but, as was the case in the south — -(for I never witnessed such havoc as there was to the tender foliage and opening blossoms of all kinds of deciduous trees, not only of the Pears and Apples, but of the Horse Chestnut, Hawthorn, Laburnum, &c.) — so it was, I found, in the north, though the gale was not quite so severe. I left an espalier of Z6phirin Gr^goire Pear, for instance, quite covered with bloom. When I came back, as it was more exposed to the direct influence of the westerly gale than most of my Pear3, there was hardly a leaf, and certainly no vestige of a blossom left. It made fresh growth, and, oddly enough, even blossomed again late in August. The only position where I had any fruit on Apples and Pears was on the easterly side of the larger and older-established Apples which were not so exposed to the gale— a great contrast to the extraordinary crop of 1881, when we could hardly find room to store them. Louise Bonne of Jersey Pear, on a young bush tree, was also good with me. Beurie d’Amanlis Pear is, in my opinion, much overrated merely because it looks well on the table, but it has been voted here very little better than a Turnip. Beurrd Diel, again, is not worth growing north of the Trent. Amongst Apples I can strongly recommend as sure bearers Winter Hawthornden and Margil, and till one has grown Cox’s Orange Pippin against a south wall or in an orchard house we do not know what a really fine-flavoured and valuable Apple it is. One of the best and most highly flavoured and certain bearers amongst the early Apples is Irish Peach, and among the later sorts Wyken Pippin, which has rarely failed with me, and though only small is a very good-flavoured Apple. Here in the north the old Cockpit is good ; Improved Cockpit, which, though a larger Apple, keeps no better ; Scotch Hunthouse, and Wellington or Dume- low’s Seedling are still the best for kitchen purposes during the winter, and the old Keswick Codlin and Lord Suffield to begin with ; then follow old Hawthornden and Golden Noble, with Alfriston and Warner’s King, which many persons are inclined to keep too long. I find it best with me in November and December, and it is one of the best kitchen Apples we have. — C. P. P. RIPENING CHRYSANTHEMUM WOOD. This is a subject of much importance, and should not be passed over without consideration and discussion. I have been anxiously waiting to see what the advocates of the “ ripening system ” had to say on this matter. If I am not mistaken the ripening of the wood has in previous volumes been advocated as essential, and one of tbe most important points in the culture of the Chrysan¬ themum towards producing compact, well-shaped, symmetrical blooms of the finest exhibition quality. But now, although a writer on page 22, who is evidently not a tyro in Chrysanthemum culture, has stated he attaches very little importance to ripening the wood, no one in favour of the practice has given the result of his experience. Has the practice been abandoned for a more liberal system of cultivation ? Like “ Grower and Exhibitor ” I consider there is no import¬ ance to be attached to the ripening of the wood, and that it is unnecessary and a waste of the energy of the plants to bring them to a standstill by keeping them in small pots or in any other manner to render the growths hard and woody. The past season has been notable for the absence of sun, and the blooms generally last autumn were not behind in size or quality those of any pre¬ vious year ; in fact, the past three or four years have been remark¬ able for heavy rainfalls and an absence of sun, yet during those seasons Chrysanthemum culture has made rapid progress, and blooms of equal merit were not staged at any previous shows that I had the pleasure of seeing. I prefer by no means sunless seasons in which to grow Chrysanthemums, but the past shows what can be done with unripened wood. I maintain that if the plants are potted as they require it, grown without check in an unshaded position, and secured to stakes so that air can circulate amongst the foliage freely, tbe wood will ripen sufficiently as it is made in a natural manner without the assistance of artificial means. That finer blooms can be produced after hot dry seasons has yet to be proved. What say others?- — Scientia. Your able correspondent Mr. G. Lyne, refers to my observa¬ tions on ripening the wood of these plants. I have seen much trouble taken, and no doubt he has too, to place plants in a posi¬ tion where they could receive all the rays of the sun possible, such as at the front of a south wall, with the object of ripening the wood. I have seen them kept for weeks in small pots to harden the wood, and have known water withheld for a time with the same object. These are practices that have been adopted, and it is making the stems quite hard and woody by such means that I objected to. I do not hesitate saying that such extreme and artificial ripening means destruction to the lower foliage. Your correspondent will admit that when the wood is very hard that the flower buds seldom open in a satisfactory manner, but come one-sided — in fact, are generally useless. I know the Chrysanthemum requires a light and airy position, therefore I stand the plants in single rows by the side of walks. I did not assert that the plants will grow satisfactorily in a shady position. As for buds formed in October, I should remove them promptly, as I am sure they would be robbing the principal flowers. — Grower and Exhibitor. CYPRIPEDIUMS. Though dispersed so widely through the northern hemisphere the species of the genus Cypripedium bear a strong likeness to each other in the form of their flowers, and there are few Orchids which are so easily distinguished by the uninitiated as the mem¬ bers of the Lady Slipper family. This is chiefly due to the prominent pouch-like labellum which in most Orchids is strangely formed, but in few large genera is the shape so uniform as in that being now considered. Both hardy and tropical species, European, Asiatic, and American, bear this peculiarly modified organ that is so obviously of special importance in the attraction of insects to aid in the fertilisation. The old designation of the British species (C. Calceolus), Calceolus Marianus, the general title of Ladies’ Slippers, and the American Mocassin Flowers, have all been derived from the form of the lip, and the generic name, literally Venus’s Slipper is also a classical rendering of the same peculiarity. The greatest difference is that between the hardy 11G JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 8, 1883. Fig, 26.-0., Cypripedium purpuratlim ; b, C. Spiccrianum ; c, C. i uuctatum violaeeum ; d, C. gixttatum ; e, C. Bullenianum. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. February 8, 1883. ] 117 and the tropical species, the latter being evergreen, and the former producing larger lighter leaves that die each year as winter approaches. Structurally there is a great similarity in the flowers, though they are widely separated from all other Orchids by several strongly marked peculiarities. The most remarkable of these are in the pollinia and column. It is well known that the column of Orchid flowers is regarded as the result of a combination of the pistil with three stamens, and in the majority of species two of these stamens are suppressed, and the anther of one only appears as the pollen masses under the cup at the apex of the column, the stigma being confined to a cavity lower down on the column. In the Cypripediums, however, There is a singular divergence from this character : the apex of the column, instead of producing the one anther — i.e., the pollinia, has a large flat angular expan¬ sion, two anthers being developed, one on each side of the column below the apical plate. This anyone can readily observe by carefully dissecting a flower, and the method by which cross¬ fertilisation can be effected, if desired, will be at once apparent. So strange a structure has reference to cross-fertilisation by insects, which in several species is effected in a peculiar and interesting manner. The species are mostly terrestrial in habit, though a few are found occasionally upon trees in their native localities, the deci¬ duous section being confined to the northern portion of the Old and New World, while the others are found in the Indian Penin¬ sula and Archipelago, the warmer regions of North America, and even in Peru. Of the tropical Ladies’ Slippers many have beauti¬ fully blotched or marbled leaves, the variegation taking the form of irregular transverse bars, or dark green spots and blotches on a lighter ground ; and, like some of the Phalaenopsids, these plants are handsome at all times of the year, whether flowering or not. The leaves are produced in a two-ranked (distichous) manner — - that is, they are arranged opposite each other after the style of the Yandas and similar plants ; they, however, vary considerably in length and breadth, the plain green forms having the most narrow leaves, and usually the longest. None of them produces a pseudo-bulb, though in the case of the hardy species, which lose their foliage annually, this is supplied by a tuberous rootstock, from which the growth is developed each season ; the latter also commonly attain to a greater height than the evergreen forms, which do not reach any great dimensions, fresh growths being produced from the base, and there is thus more tendency to lateral than upward extension. The flowers are generally' produced singly (or in pairs) on stems a foot or more in height that arise from the centre of the growths or axils of the leaves ; and one remarkable character of many of the species is the great time the flowers continue in good condition upon the plants, often exceed¬ ing a month, and in some cases even continuing fresh for six weeks. Flowers also last exceedingly well when cut from the plants, and are thus very useful for floral decoration, though the strangeness of their form unsuits them for arranging with most other flowers, and they usually appear best alone. Culture. — Cypripediums are not difficult to grow, and one or two of them may be ranked amongst the most useful and easily cultivated Orchids known. One very important point to observe is that as regards the tropical species, with which we are now concerned, no distinctly marked season of rest, like that needed by many of the pseudo-bulbous Orchids, is requisite. Any attempt at regularly withholding water at certain seasons will result in failure, as all Orchid growers know perfectly well, but an amateur at the first attempt might be induced to give incorrect treatment in this respect. Water must be constantly supplied at all times ; but in the winter greater care is needed, especially with some of the delicate sorts, as, though impatient of any approach to drought, they are nearly as much injured by too liberal supplies at the dull season, as the plants are then liable to suffer from damp, especially' if a suitable temperature cannot be maintained. The house devoted to East Indian Orchids suits the majority of tropical species, but they will also thrive very well in an ordinary stove ; and this is a great advantage, for there are many establishments in which a house cannot be set apart for Orchids alone. The shady side should be preferably assigned to them, other¬ wise they will need careful shading when the sun is powerful. As regards soil they are also not very particular, all succeeding very well in a compost of peat, sphagnum moss, and sand, the stronger-growing sorts being benefited by a moderate proportion of light turfy loam. It is strange, however, in what seemingly unsuitable soils Orchids, and amongst them Cypripediums, will often grow satisfactorily : for instance, I once visited a small garden where the stock of plants grown under glass was very limited, and the Orchids represented were two species only — namely, Odontoglossum Alexandras and Cypripedium insigne. These were potted in a mixture of old mortar rubbish, turfy loam> and sand, and yet the plants were in most vigorous health and flowered as freely as could be desired by the greatest admirer of Orchids. I should not, however, advise a trial of this compost, though the fact is noteworthy as showing that the importance often attached to special soils mixed in exact proportions is not altogether invariable. The species in cultivation are numerous, and the hybrids that have been obtained in recent years greatly increase the number of sorts, so that now there is a long list to select from. The fol¬ lowing notes are devoted to a brief consideration of these under the heads Tropical and Hardy Species. TROPICAL CYPRIPEDIUMS. These may be conveniently arranged in four groups — those with marbled or variegated foliage, those having plain green foliage, the Selenipedium section, and the hybrids that have been obtained between the preceding. Species with Marbled Foliage.— One of the best known in this group is C. barbatum, which is a really useful Orchid, and ranks high in the favour of amateurs and others. The chief beauty of the flower is in the large size and pretty markings of the dorsal sepal, which is of rounded or heart-shaped form, white at the upper part, streaked and clouded with purple of varying degrees of redness at the lower part. The lip is very dark, often nearly black, the petals being dark purple with a row of little tufts of hair on each margin. It is one of the Indian Archipelago species, being found in Java and contiguous localities. Several handsome varieties are in cultivation under the names of nigrum, superbum, Veitchianum, &c. C. biflorum is an Indian species closely related to the above, but by no means so well known. Its foliage is more attractively mottled, and it flowers earlier than C. barbatum, usually in the present month, but, like that, its blooms are very durable, continuing in good condition for a month or six weeks. C. concolor is readily distinguished from the other species. The petals and dorsal sepal are nearly equal in size and form, elliptical, creamy yellow with numerous small dark dots, the lip being comparatively small. The foliage is beautifully marbled, and alone renders the plant worthy of culti¬ vation. A little limestone is needed in the compost employed for this plant, and it succeeds well in an ordinary stove. C. Dayanum — the foliage of this species is more beautiful than the flowers, the latter being green, white, and purple, but it is note¬ worthy as commemorating the name of J. Day, Esq., of Tottenham, whose magnificent collection was dispersed a year or two ago. C. Hookerae — this again has very handsome foliage, indeed it is one of the best in that respect, but the brownish-purple flowers cannot be compared with many others of the genus as regards beauty or brightness. C. Bullenianum (fig. 2G, e ) is a Bornean species related to C. Hookerae, but it is even more attractive in its foliage, the contrast between the dark spots and the light ground colour being very striking. C. purpuratum (fig. 26, a ) is another species with dark spotted foliage ; the flowers, too, are rather pretty, the dorsal sepals being white, veined longitudinally with purple ; the petals are broad purple, and the lip of similar colour. It is a native of the Malayan Archipelago, and was introduced by Mr. Knight of Chelsea nearly half a century ago. That handsome Bornean species, C. Lawrenceanum, which Mr. F. W. Burbidge introduced for Messrs. Yeitch & Sons, must not be omitted from this group, as it is one of the best of those with ornamental foliage. The flowers are of great size, the dorsal sepal being very broad and rounded, distinctly veined with dark purple, the streaks extending from the base to the margin following the contour of the sepal. The petals are tinted with purple, and have a few dark wort-like protuberances near each margin, along which there is also a row of hairs. The lip is brownish with a purple tinge, and the leaves are beautifully marbled with light and dark green. It is exceedingly free, and was well chosen to commemorate the name of Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., who is widely famed as one of the chief Orchid lovers of the present time. Green-leaved Species.— One of these which has come into very prominent notice recently is C. Spicerianum (fig. 26, l). It is a native of the East Indies, and was introduced a few years since by Mr. Spicer, in honour of whom it is named. It passed into the possession of Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons of Chelsea, and soon became known to the Orchid-growing world. Careful search was made for it, and quite recently Messrs. Sander & Co. of St. Albans succeeded in obtaining a large quantity of plants, which were sold at Mr. Stevens’s Rooms, Covent Garden, and is now to be seen in many collections. Before the latter introduc¬ tion small specimens had realised sixty guineas, and as much as one hundred guineas had been given for larger plants. The large white dorsal sepal contrasting with the reddish brown lip and 118 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 8, 1883. greenish petals, gives a very distinct appearance to the flower ; and as it appears to share the free-flowering qualities of C. in- signe it will doubtlessly become as popular as that species. Notes on the other members of this group must be deferred. The woodcut represents five good Cypripediums, three of which have been already noticed. The other two are C. punctatum violaceum ( c ), which has violet-dotted attractive flowers, and C. guttatum (d), a pretty terrestrial species from Canada and Siberia, with white flowers marbled with rich purple. — L. Castle. (To bo continued.) GRAFTING. Judging from inquiries we have received during the past few weeks it is evident that the subject of grafting fruit trees is one on which information is needed, and it is certain that there are Fig. 27. Fig. 28. Fig. 29. Fig. 30. many persons, young gardeners and older amateurs, who are not so well acquainted as they should be with the old and most valuable practice of the art of gardening. “Everyone should learn to graft” wrote Mr. Kingsley in this Journal upwards of twelve years ago, and he related an incident of when a boy of cutting scions from all the Pear trees in the garden, and attaching them to a young Jargonelle with withered Crocus leaves, at the same time cutting out all the buds that naturally belonged to the tree. Years afterwards this was re¬ garded as a wonderful tree by the owner, as every branch bore a different variety. This incident is alluded to as showing how easily learned is the process ; and Mr. Kingsley further observes, for the benefit of the inexperienced, that all grafting is performed by fitting one or more buds of one variety (the scion) to another (the stock), which is growing from an established root, and this fitting must be managed so that the living layers (the alburnum) of the wood of both are brought into close juxtaposition, so that the cambium, or fresh deposit of living cells and fibre, may unite, the former being suitable for young trees or small branches, the latter for larger trees that have been “ headed down.” The best time for grafting is usually the first half of April, but in early seasons and localities an earlier date is better. The stock should be on the point of bursting its leaf buds, but the scion must have them much less advanced for ordinary out-of-door work. To secure this difference of development the scions are cut off a month at least before the time of using them, and may be cut off as soon as the leaves have fallen. They require to be kept from drought and frost, and the common way of storing them is tie each sort in a bundle, and put it two-thirds of its length in the ground in the open air, under a north wall or other shade from the sun. Perhaps a better plan for keeping is to put them overhead in cocoa-fibre refuse in flower pots, storing the pots in a cool cellar or outhouse, and taking care that the fibre is neither dry nor wet, but only thoroughly damp ; scions so stored will keep perfectly sound for a very long time, frequently striking root, and always forming a callosity at the base. Sand used in the same way answers very well, but it is apt to damage the knife if any is left when the scion is being shaped ; the cocoa fibre shakes off, leaving the wood quite clean. The scions are cut from thoroughly ripened shoots of the pre¬ ceding summer ; where it can be done, a piece of the previous year’s wood should be cut off along with the new, for if the scion is fitted so that the junction of the two years’ growth is applied to the stock, a much larger portion of the living tissue is brought into contact. Some kinds of trees require the second year’s wood to be taken for the scion ; and although the fruits we are dealing with do not, I would rather have a scion of the second year’s wood than a badly ripened shoot of the previous summer. The buds on the scion must be leaf buds, and the plumper they are the better. Avoid all those succulent shoots commonly seen on the stems of old orchard trees. We now come to the tools required ; they are very simple — a very sharp knife, some matting or yarn for tying, grafting wax or clay to cover up the joint. As the knife must be in first-rate condition for the most delicate part of the operation, it should never be used for rough work, so use another for cutting off the heads of the stocks and any other preliminary trimming. Various modes of grafting are adopted for particular purposes. For our present purpose two only are needed — whip or toDgue grafting, and crown grafting. All the books in which I have found a description of grafting seem to me to be very defective in more than one particular, and I shall endeavour to make the matter perfectly clear at the risk of being tedious. A glance at the figures will explain to any ex¬ perienced gardener all that is new. Cut down in the autumn all the stocks that are to be grafted in the spring, and any branches of larger trees that are to be grafted afresh, leaving in every case about three eyes beyond the part where the scion is to be placed, at the same time trim off any laterals that require removing. This cutting-back in autumn prevents the check that would otherwise be given to the stock were it cut back after they had begun to move. Then, as soon as the buds which have been left are on the point of opening, choose a day that is calm and warm ; if therehas been rain shortly before all the better. Cut off the top of a young stock down to a dis¬ tance of 3 inches from the ground or thereabouts, less rather than more. The cut should be made by putting the edge of the sharp knife just opposite to a bud and bringing it out an eighth of an inch or so above the bud, making the cut quite clean and even, with a very gentle slant, 1 (fig. 27). Next put the knife to a point about an inch below the place where it was first applied, and cut a thin slip upwards, 2 (fig. 2S). This slip should remove the bark and a small portion of the wood, but it ought as far as possible to be a section of that layer of living tissue which throws off a ring of wood on one side and a ring of bark on the other : the size of the scion, however, must be the principal guide as to the thickness of the slice cut off, and it is here that correctness of eye is of so great importance. Next reverse the direction of the edge of the knife and run it downwards, beginning at the bottom of the last cut, and keeping the slip the same size, so as to form a flap about an inch long, 3 (fig. 29) ; and then, again, if the scion be not very small, make a second downward cut, 4 (fig. 30) Fig. 31. Fig. 32. Fig. 33. Fig. 34. starting about half an inch from the top of the stock, and about three-quarters of an inch long. These four cuts are numbered in order in the figures, and the barbs show the direction in which they are made. With practice you will make them in about as many seconds. This is all the preparation needed by the stock. We now come to the scion. If it has been well kept the base will be perfectly sound, and most likely will have a large callosity formed from the wound. If it is one having a piece of the second February 8, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 119 year’s wood cut it through an inch below the junction of the two- years growth, and cut it through again above the third bud above the junction. Commonly this will leave a shoot about 4 or 5 inches long. Now look out for the lowest of these three buds, A (fig. 31), and putting your knife from an eighth to a quarter of an inch below it, bring the cut out at the base at the opposite side, forming the bottom of the scion into a wedge, 1 ; secondly, make a cut, beginning at the same point as before, and slanting exactly the same as the top of the stock, 2 (fig. 32). A little practice will teach you to make this slope always at the same angle ; it matters very little what the amount of slope is provided it is not a violent one. The depth of this cut must depend on the thickness of the stock and scion. If the scion is small, and the stock moderately small, this cut should go nearly half through the scion ; if the scion is nearly as thick as the stock, the cut should go just half through ; but if the stock is much larger than the scion, the cut should go more than half through — just beyond the pith. Thirdly, reverse the knife, and beginning half an inch from the base, make a cut upwards, 3 (fig. 32), to meet cut 2. Fourthly, if the scion is thick enough make another cut upwards, 4 (fig. 33), beginning a little below the middle of the wedge to form the tongue to fit into the opening made in the stock by its cut No. 4 (fig. 30). Lastly, cut a thin slip from the opposite side about an inch long, 5 (fig. 34). Now fit the scion on the stock, as in fig. 35, slipping the point under the flap and the point of the tongue into the slit made for it, taking care to bring the two slanting portions into close con¬ tact, and, above all, being quite sure that the layers of living tissue are accurately joined. This can always be managed for one side, and if the cuts on the stock have been made of the right size, the inner bark will fit on both sides. The outer bark of the stock is generally much thicker than that of the scion, therefore the scion will stand a little within the outer contour of the stock. Bind the scion and stock firmly together, but not so violently as to bruise either of them. Begin about the middle, and first work downwards, and then wrap the yarn regularly up ; and if the scion is properly put on the two slanting pieces at the top will be brought into close contact by the pre¬ sence of the band. The top of the stock is the most important point for the union to be perfect. Finally, apply a coating of grafting wax or clay ; I prefer the wax. There is a sort manufactured in Paris that is used cold, and is the best I have met with ; but any of the common sorts made by softening pitch with lard or tallow, &c., and used warm, are far more convenient than clay, and a dozen grafts can be covered up with the wax in the time required for claying one. If, however, you like to refresh your early memories of clay pies, the application is made thus : — Take a piece of clay about as large as a rather small egg, roll it into a round ball in your hands, then putting it into the palm of the left, beat it out into a flat cake with the right. Take this cake and bend it Fig. 35. • round the joint, taking care to leave all the buds of the scion above it, press it firmly all round, and point it both upwards and downwards into a spindle-shaped form. You will find it necessary to use cinder dust or dry sand to enable you to accomplish this pastry-making neatly. Of course in using the grafting wax only a small quantity is applied with a brush, so as just to make the joint airtight, and there is no fear of smothering the lowest bud, which bud is finally to become your tree. The bud on the stock below the cut first made is merely for the pur¬ pose of keeping the sap at work on the side opposite to the scion, and if it pushes it must be stopped by pinching the end off, and later in the season the shoot must be cut clean off. Where the stocks are worked close to the ground, to prevent evaporation, and at the same time to keep frosts from the roots, cover up the ground to the top of the stocks with ashes or cocoa fibre. If the weather is very dry water well once a week, and a little guano added to the water will stimulate the growth very much. You must remember that the success of the operatic n, supposing the joint to have been quickly and correctly made, depends upon vigorous root-action. Any check to the growth through cold or drought is dangerous ; in working small numbers both can be securely guarded against, and very few failures ought to occur. This is the form of whip graft I recommend for small trees. Crown grafting, as applied to stocks much larger than the scions, will be referred to in a future issue ; but the scions or grafts should be cut off the trees or procured at once, keeping them cool and fresh until they are wanted for attaching to the stocks. THE GREENHOUSE AND ITS INMATES. {Continued, from page 576, last vol.) BALSAMS. Balsams require to be grown in very rich soil in pits or frames, which are heated either by pipes or, better, by a hotbed. Seed should be sown in April in pots thinly, and placed near the glass on a hotbed. When the plants are 3 inches high they must be placed singly into small pots, employing very rich soil. A single crock over the hole in the pots will do, as the soil will soon be filled with roots, when a further shift will be necessary. Soil composed of half manure and half loam, with some sand to make it porous, will suit them well. The plants should be regularly syringed to keep down red spider. Repotting, keeping up a high moist heat, and ventilating whenever the weather is fine, consti¬ tute all that are required to make handsome plants in a short time. Nearness to the glass and a little bottom heat will conduce much towards the formation of strong, stout, as opposed to weak, thin plants. Before removing them to the greenhouse they should be hardened a little. THE CAMELLIA. The Camellia is a universal favourite, and no amateur considers his greenhouse, however small it may be, furnished unless one or two good plants are among the occupants. The best compost for Camellias is light turfy loam with an admixture of char¬ coal and bones broken small, in order to keep it sweet and open, as well as to furnish food for the roots. For small plants an addition of a little leaf soil and a dash of sharp sand will prove beneficial. Small plants require to be watered more frequently than large ones, hence the necessity for sand to prevent the soil becoming soddened. Small plants root with less vigour than large ones, hence the reason for giving that root-encouraging material — leaf soil. The plants should be repotted just as the young shoots push in spring. Careful draining is necessary, for stagnant water must be guarded against or success will certainly not follow. Twin- potting is also necessary for the same reason. After the plants are potted the house in which they are placed should be kept rather warmer and closer than usual, so that an early vigorous growth may be encouraged. Occasionally dewing the plants after bright days with the syringe will be beneficial. Enough water should be given at a time to thoroughly saturate the whole mass of earth, and then no more until necessary. It frequently happens that the soil becomes so dry that it is not possible to wet it unless by steeping the pots in the cistern or a tub. The weight of the pot will be a guide as to whether the soil is too dry, and if there is any suspicion that dryness exists steeping for two or three hours should be resorted to. The fact that the surface soil is wet is no safe guide to follow. Overdrvness and overdampness alike cause the buds to fall prematurely, so both must be guarded against. After the shoots have become somewhat firm, and the flower buds have commenced swelling, the plants will be benefited by placing them outside, choosing a position where the plants are not too much exposed to beating winds. The pots should be plunged nearly to the rim in order to protect the soil from being too rapidly dried. They must be removed indoors by the end of September again. Mealy bug is apt to infest Camellias. The best cure is careful sponging with soap and water. Indeed, insects or no insects, the plants will be much benefited by an occasional cleansing with a sponge and warm soapy water. The following is a selection of twenty-four varieties of proved excellence. White — Alba plena, fimbriata, Princess Charlotte, Mathotiana alba, centifolia alba, and Montironi vera. Red or crimson — Madame Lebois, Rose de la Reine, Benneyi, Manara, and Bealii. Rose— Sarah Frost, L’Avenir, Halley i, Madame de StrekalofI, Marchioness of Exeter, and Valtavaredo. Striped or marbled — Bonomiana, Adelina Benvenuti, Tricolor, Souvenir d’Amile Dufresne, Giovanni Santorelli, and Lavinia Maggi. — J. H. (To be continued.) Small Spots on Pelakgonium Foliage.— I recently visited the gardens of a gentleman who prides himself on his collection of Pelar¬ goniums : Regal, Show, Fancy, and the different sub-sections of Zonals. So attached is he to this favourite flower that I understand Messrs. Cannell & Sons of Swanley hold a general order from him for every- JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 120 thing new that they introduce. Latterly, no matter how robust they arrive to him, after some time (I am now referring to the Zonals) the leaves exhibit whitish spots — I cannot say holes, for the fibrous part of the leaf-tissue remains, but the green is gone. I carefully examined them with a strong lens, but found no insect or larvae. The plants had not received too much water, nor was the water hard. Perhaps some reader can throw a light on the matter. — W. J. M„ Clonmel. ;JL ) La WO KK,F°H™EWEEK,. ' ftfl Ml mmmm [ By the most sldlful Cultivators in the several Departments .] HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. Planting. — In so wet a winter the work of laying out and planting new gardens has been much retarded. Plum buds are already swelling ; so, too, are Gooseberries. Not a day should be lost in planting them, and take especial care to enrich the soil with a liberal mixture of old decayed manure to induce a prompt and free root-growth. Also cover the entire surface of each station with a thick mulching of long stable dung or litter, the object of this extra care being root-growth as early, or nearly so, as autumn-planted trees ; for if this has not begun when the sap stored in stem and branches is exhausted by the new branch- growth, it will sustain a severe check and do little good till midsummer. Pruning. — Go a second time over any work done hurriedly or by youDg hands. We have been doing much good in this way lately in removing decaying wood and dead spurs, which are favourite haunts of insects. Crowded growth, too, has had special attention. Many branches left on with advantage when the trees were younger have been cut off to afford space for the full de¬ velopment of spurs that are annually affording an increasing yield of fruit. A few sturdy branches with large spurs are decidedly preferable to many branches with very short spurs. So, too, is the free growth of standards strengthened, rendered more healthy, and eventually more productive of really fine fruit by timely judicious thinning. Leave all Filberts and nuts un- pruned till the male catkins are fully developed and a cloud of yellow pollen can be shaken from it to fertilise the pink female flowers. Training. — This is almost done for the present, a few Figs on a south wall being the last intentionally, because the buds swell more slowly than most other kinds of fruit. All the main branches are trained diagonally from the base, so as to give the tree the shape of a fan, and the lateral growth is tied along and across them neatly and tolerably close, so as to retain enough unpruned shoots all over the tree to afford a full crop of fruit, which comes near the tops of last year’s growth. Protection. — If bullfinches attack the buds of Gooseberry bushes netting should at once be used to keep them off. It is a good plan to erect a permanent framework around the Gooseberry bed for this purpose, as well as for netting against birds and wasps in summer. If wasps are troublesome in summer Nottingham net¬ ting is required, but for keeping off birds fine wire netting is decidedly preferable ; it is more efficient, and in the end is cheapest, lasting for a lifetime, while fish netting has often to be replaced with new. Large beds of Heather near our garden prove so attractive to the bullfinches that we need no protection, and never lose a Gooseberry bud. This is a hint worth turning to account, and to which there can be no objection, for the Heather is an ornamental plant which comes freely from seed. FRUIT FORCING. Vines.- — Strict attention to stopping, tying, and thinning in the early house must be given, and the removal of surplus bunches be promptly done, it being well to under rather than overcrop. A night temperature of 60J to 65° will be suitable, and 70° to 75° by day, advancing 5° to 10° more from sun heat. Close at 80°, and employ plenty of moisture about the house, and in ventilating be careful to avoid admitting cold air, which is often productive of rust. Where Muscats are forced early, so as to have them ripe in June, the house being started in December, they will now be nearing the flowering stage, and should have a night temperature of 65° to 70°, and a rise of 10° to 15° by day in favourable weather, closing the house on fine days at 80°. When the flowers ex¬ pand fertilise every bunch with pollen collected from Black Ham- burghs, which insures a good set ; but the setting is not all in the [ February 8 1863. successful treatment of early Muscats, as to insure a satisfactory result the roots must have the benefit of a well-drained inside border that was mulched in the previous season so as to encourage an abundance of healthy roots at the surface, a clean healthy growth, and the wood thoroughly ripened. This is absolutely essential, as much of the present season’s result depends on the foundation laid in the previous year. When the Grapes on Vines in pots have been thinned the laterals below the bunches should be closely stopped, while those above the fruit may be allowed freer growth, providing there is space for the foliage. Avoid overcropping, quality being of more im¬ portance than quantity. Top-dress with rich loam and decayed manure, having rims of zinc fitting inside the pots and about 4 inches deep. In case the pots are on pedestals of brickwork with a strong heat below from fermenting materials, the latter being placed loosely around the pots, liberal supplies of tepid liquid manure should be given ; and where the pots are to remain undisturbed until the Grapes are ripe the roots may be allowed to have the run of the bed, and they will enable the Vines to swell off the fruit satisfactorily. In order to obtain a supply of Grapes from the end of July another house should now be closed, following instructions given in a former calendar. Late Vines which had the Grapes removed from them early in January should be closed not later than March, and preferably from the middle to the end of February, the inside border at the time of closing being supplied with water at a temperature of 90°. If fermenting material be introduced it will be advantageous from giving off moisture and ammonia-charged vapour, as well as lessening the necessity for fire heat, the temperature needing to be kept at 55° at night and 65° in the day. Late Hamburghs may be kept cool and allowed to break naturally, as with very little assistance their fruit can be ripened perfectly in September. Cherry Ilrvse. — Continue previous directions as to temperature ; and in order to destroy any green or black aphides which have escaped at the time of the annual dressing, it will be well to fumigate the house on two or three consecutive evenings before the flowers are fully expanded. When the flowers are open and the pollen ripe apply it with a camel’s-hair brush to the stigmas, it being most efficacious when it is light and dry, as will be the case on fine days after air has been admitted a short time. Melons. — A quick, but at the same time a sturdy, growth is essential, and to effect this sufficient top and bottom heat must be at command, and by ventilating on all favourable occasions a sturdy and consolidated growth will be effected ; but an un¬ broken current of cold air will do irreparable mischief, and must be broken by some small-mesh material, as that of scrim canvas, placed over the ventilators. Dung frames should be covered with a double thickness of mats at night, and the linings attended to as required. Sow seed for succession. Cucumbers. — The night temperature may now be kept at 65° to 70°, and 80° to 90° with sun, admitting .a little air on all favourable occasions, closing early in the afternoon of sunny days ; with plenty of atmospheric moisture, and tepid liquid manure judiciously applied to the roots, they will make rapid progress. Maintain a clean growth, and crop lightly. Young plants may now be placed out in the ridges or hillocks in the Cucumber house, it having been properly and thoroughly cleansed, and the soil introduced a few days previously. Press the soil around the plants, a stick being placed to each and secured to the first wire of the trellis, shading for a few days if the sun be bright to prevent flagging. See that the linings of dung-heated frames are properly attended to according to the weather, and to meet demands cf this kind keep a good supply of well-mixed leaves and dung in readiness. Figs. — Nothing is gained by accelerating the forcing of Figs in the early stages, but sharp firing often encourages red spider, which should be closely watched for, syringing the trees twice a day to keep it under. Stop all gross shoots at the sixth leaf, and thin the shoots and useless spray, that the young spurs and fruit may have the benefit of air and light as the season advances. Thin the fruit as soon as the most promising and best placed can be decided upon for the crop. Continue the temperatures advised in our last calendar. Encourage trees in succession houses by apply¬ ing fire heat and moisture through the day, keeping the borders well mulched and affording plentiful supplies of water to the rootj, but avoid a high night temperature in the early stages of growth, more particularly in severe weather. Plants struck from eyes last season should now be encouraged with heat and moisture, as future success depends on their making an early well-ripened growth. Ground suckers should be removed ; stop the strong shoots and train the leads to straight stakes, stopping those in¬ tended for pyramids at the sixth joint of growth. Eyes may now February s, is€3. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 121 be inserted, plunged in bottom heat, and treated like Vine eyes, and these grown oh clean stems make the best plants. FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Renovating Lawns. — All lawns will be much benefited by fre¬ quent rollings, this tending to fix the grasses which annually root afresh, and also materially contributes to the desirable firmness and evenness. It is not advisable to heavily sweep the lawn prior to rolling in order to remove the wormcasts. On the contrary, these if well scattered with a broom or long swish, and when dry rolled into turf, will to a certain extent act as fertilisers. As a rule the lawns are much neglected with regard to manuring, but unless a dressing of some kind is given occasionally the ground becomes impoverished, the finer sorts of grasses perish, and moss takes their place. A few barrowloads of good garden soil if it can be spared, or of road trimmings, should be run through a quarter-inch-mesh sieve, and after about one-third of its bulk of fresh-slaked lime is mixed with it, be thinly distributed over the lawn. It maybe well stirred in with a rake, and the roller passed over frequently when dry. Large lawns ought to have similar treatment, and failing this a dressing of artificial manure or soot. Lime and road grit well stirred in will destroy moss and greatly improve the turf. Mild weather, such as we are having this month, is most favourable for turf-laying, and this and levelling may well be proceeded with. In either case, unless the ground when being prepared is rendered firm unevenness will result. When levelling the turf need only be rolled back in strips ; the soil can then be removed or added as the case may be, and the turf firmly beaten down. Climbing Roses. — Where these are growing in a well-sheltered position it may be advisable to prune them at once in order to secure an early supply of blooms. Tea Roses are largely planted in thesi positions, and with a little protection from severe frost succeed admirably. They should be freely thinned out, the spray especially being removed, and all the shoots retained shortened back according to their vigour. When these are weakly prune hard ; if strong, the growths may be laid in to near their full length. If this is attended to and a liberal top-dressing of manure given the plants will always be vigorous and yield flowers in abundance. If a few of the strong growths of Gloire de Dijon are cut back to within three buds of their base long strong shoots will follow, and these if laid in will flower throughout their full length late in the season. Marechal Niel requires different treatment, as it pro¬ duces blooms on the growth of the previous season only, and con¬ sequently old growth should be cut out where possible, and the long strong shoots which flower at every joint be laid in to their full length. With the object of securing a sufficiency of this class of growths well matured, a few strong shoots should be cut hard back. Noisettes may be rather closely pruned, as these produce large-branching flowering shoots. Bourbon and Chinese Roses are the freest and most continuous bloomers, and should have all spray removed, the remaining growths being cut freely back and large-branching shoots will result. Hybrid Ferpetuals, where the walls or pillars are well furnished, may be pruned similar to those grown as standards, all the young growths being thinned out, and those retained cut back to three or more buds. Where necessary the young growths of these and other kinds may be laid in to their full length. Banksian Roses should be treated similarly to Marechal Niel. Seeds to be Sown. — All kinds of small seeds germinate readily in February, and these and the seeds of slow-growing subtropical bedding plants may now be sown. Included in the former are Lobelias, Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, Tuberous-rooted Begonias, and Verbenas : while among the latter are Wigandias, Solanums, Cannas, Acacia lophantha, Tobacco, Ferdinandia eminens, Polym- nia grandis, Echeverias, Sempervivums, Chamaepeuce diacantha, and Centaureas. It is much too early to sow the Ricinuses. Pans or well-drained pots may be employed, and a light, finely sifted, sandy soil in which leaf soil or peat is freely mixed is suitable. The very finest seeds should be sown on the surface of the firm, even, damp soil, while the remainder should only be lightly covered and watered through a fine-rose watering can. All should be covered with glass, placed on a brisk hotbed, and kept dark till germination. Prior to sowing it will be necessary to soak the seeds of the Cannas and Acacias for twenty-four hours in a pan of water placed on the hot-water pipes or plunged in a strong bottom heat. PLANT HOUSES. Stove. — Dracaenas that have become tall should now be cut down and the tops inserted in 4-inch pots, placing a good dash of sand at the base for the stem to rest upon, and plunged into bottom heat in the propagating frame, where they will soon form roots. Good heads when rooted without losing their foliage always form much better plants than those raised from the stem, as the foliage is large and the plants afterwards well furnished at the base. To increase the stock cut up the portion of stem from which the roots are emitted, as plants are formed from it quicker than from the stem aboveground. The latter if used should be well ripened before it is cut, or it is very liable to decay. D. gracilis, D. ruti- lans, and D. congesta are very useful green-leaved varieties for decoration. Heads of the first-mentioned root readily without being confined in the propagating frame, and the stock increased by retaining the old stem, rooting the young shoots that push from it when 4 or 5 inches in length. Crotons and Dieifenbachias that have become bare at the bottom can have their tops removed and will root quickly, forming hand¬ some plants in a few weeks. Retain the plants from which the tops have been taken if necessary to increase the stock ; and although the young plants taken from the Crotons after the head has been removed will never be so well furnished at the base, but in time if carefully grown will form heads equal to those taken from the parent. The-e can be then cut off and rooted, and in due time a good stock of well-furnished plants will be provided. The stems of DiefEenbachias can be cut into lengths, and either potted singly or laid in a pan of sand until they form roots and commence growth. Roses. — During the present dull weather these must not have too much heat, or their growths will be weakly and the flowers comparatively small. Keep the temperature at 50° to 55° at night, with a rise of 5° or 10° on very fine days. The sun will now daily gain strength, but care must be exercised in ventilating. It is better to allow the temperature to rise considerably by sun heat than to have cold draughts strike the tender foliage of the plants. Nothing causes mildew sooner than cold draughts, and when this once attacks the plants its development is rapid if its progress be not arrested. The best preventive is to syringe the plants with a little soft soap in the water. Prepare by boiling for twenty minutes about 4 lbs. of soap in a little water, to which add four gallons of water. Place half a pint of this in every four gallons of water used for syringing. This not only keeps Roses free from mildew and red spider, but checks the development of aphides, besides imparting a dark glossy appearance to the foliage. If the last-mentioned insects are infesting the points of the shoots fumigate with tobacco paper. Tea Roses that were introduced into heat early in December will now be coming into bloom, and will take the place of those that have been flowering since the early part of November. These if allowed to rest in a cooler house for two or three weeks, and then started again into growth, will produce a number of blooms later in the season, but before any can be gathered outside. Succession plants of both Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals should be kept in a steady tempera- tu e and as near to the glass as possible. Keep Moss varieties in a cold house, and allow them to start naturally. Those plants in cold frames that are to be grown cool and kept purposely to precede those outside should now be finally pruned. Ventilate as much as possible when favourable to prevent them starting into growth, and thus flower too early. slfcj III IE BEE-KEEPER. I THE ART OF BEE-KEEPING.— No. 7. ( Continued from page 60.) HIVES. Having given our reasons for preferring the bar- frame hive to all others, we proceed to indicate the principles that ought to guide us in its construction ; and first of all we may consider it absolutely necessary that, however they may differ in size, material, or con¬ struction, all the hives in an apiary should be suited to take frames of a uniform size. That now generally known as the British Standard Frame will doubtless be generally adopted in these islands. It measures 14 by 8^ inches outside, the top bar being three-eighths of an inch thick, side bars quarter of an inch, and bottom bar one- eighth. We recommend a width of seven-eighths of an inch for top and side bars and half an inch for bottom bar. A length of 17 inches is recommended by the Association for the top bar, but we cannot think this will be generally adopted. Such a frame, allowing a quarter of an inch at each end for travelling space and three-eighths of an inch at the bottom, will hang in a hive 14 J inches wide, and on sides 8| inches deep. The length of top bar recom¬ mended will thus have projections of 1 § inch at each end, of which 122 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t February s, i ses. 1^ inch will rest on the hive sides. Necessarily therefore, unless what are called wide shoulders are adopted, the hive sides must be at least 1^ inch thick, and it is here that the proposed frame fails to give satisfaction. There may he no difficulty with double-walled hives, hut when we come to those with single sides we find it im¬ possible to adopt the 17-inch bar without using wood of excessive thickness. Double-walled hives are doubtless to he in most cases preferred, but they are too expensive and difficult of construction for cottagers’ use, and quite unnecessary where hives are to be kept inside buildings as is frequently the case. In practice wo find that a projection of three-quarters of an inch in the top bar is quite sufficient for convenience in handling, and as this allows a rest of half an inch it would easily fit all hives whether single or double- sided. This would give a length of top bar of 15J inches. There is a growing tendency also among bee-keepers towards the two-storey hive, which can only be conveniently used when the body boxes are single-sided. As this is the simplest form of hive body we give the following as its dimensions, assuming that it is intended to hold ten frames — that is, it will measure inside 141 inches square. To admit of tiering the top must be level with the upper surface of the frames all round, and thus its four sides will be each 8J inches deep. It is well, however, to allow for a little shrinkage, and we shall say 9 inches planed. The ends on which the frames are to rest must thus be rabbeted half an inch on by three-eighths of an inch down. To admit of this rabbeting these should be at least three-quarters of an inch thick — we prefer 1 inch, hut the other sides may he lighter if preferred. We always prefer rabbeting out of solid wood to using thinner wood with plinths nailed on, as these present so many more open joints to the weather. Body boxes so contracted will, if carefully made, fit exactly on each other ; hut to guard against the possibility of wet entering the lower edge may he surrounded with a plinth on all sides except the front, this plinth depending half an inch, so as to throw rain over the bottom board, or over the junction of two storeys when tiered up. The roof should have its sides large enough to slip over the top of the body, with stops screwed inside to allow of its being let down further when not required for covering supers. A glance at figs. 14 and 15, page 60, will show the principles on which we prefer to construct our double-sided hives. The internal rabbet at the bottom and the external one at the top serve as receivers for the floorboard and the roof, rendering plinths unnecessary. In these hives we further provide sufficient height in the sides to allow of chaff-packing in winter, though this addition may, especially with single-sided hives, he in the form of a moveable rim. The roof may vary according to taste — either gabled, sloping both ways, or in “lean-to” form, sloping in one direction only. Generally speaking, however, our aim is to have hives constructed of the fewest possible number of pieces, and more especially where these present open joints to the weather. The following minor points also require attention: — Ventilation of the roof should be provided for by holes under the eaves, at least two of 1 inch diameter in each of two opposite sides. The doorway should be cut out to at least 10 inches by three-eighths of an inch, and be fitted either with slides or moveable blocks for reducing its size at pleasure. The floorboard should project at least 3 inches in front to form an alighting hoard, and is preferably made of two thicknesses well riveted together across the grain, so as to he proof against warping and to he reversible if desired ; and all exposed parts should be kept well painted and thoroughly waterproof. The tendency during the last few years has been in favour of hives large enough to contain from twelve to twenty frames or even more, with a view to having sections hung inside the hives. But experience, especially in poor honey seasons, leads us to con¬ clude that this is a mistake. AVe very seldom have well-finished sections in such circumstances, and we have no doubt that the older plan of reserving the body of the hive for brood combs and taking surplus in the form of supers proper will yet be generally adopted. Under such circumstances we considt-r that hives to contain from ten to twelve standard frames are large enough for all purposes. The latter number seems a proper medium for double- walled hives, and we think the former exactly suited to single- walled hives, especi¬ ally where tiering is intended. — William Raitt, Blairgowrie. (To be continued.) AUTUMN STIMULATIVE FEEDING. I am puzzled to know why “ P. II. P.” (page 80) should go to India and hack to try to prove himself right ; we are in England, and the English climate we have to deal with. As to driven bees, this matter has nothing to do with the ques¬ tion. I ask, Now suppose his queens really have ceased laying, can your correspondent induce them to recommence laying eggs ? I consider that driven bees stand on the same ground as swarms, the extra excitement in feeding, &c., causing the queens to commence laying. This is totally different from ordinary stocks to be kept over the winter. I have, I think, walked as many miles as most men after driven bees in an evening after a hard day’s work for others and myself, and I say, By all means unite such bees to your others. This is far safer than stimulating feeding. Suppose you keep up the breeding after the honey harvest is over, your bees come out in larger numbers, so that more die from exhaustion, &c., ffian you gain. It is not so much the age as the amount of work done by the bees that causes them to die. Then look at the amount of robbing caused by feeding, the danger of chilled brood, danger of dysentery, young bees not able to take cleansing flights, &c. Transferring I strongly condemn, having in so many instances proved the great danger of foul brood afterwards. I examine some scores of hives in the year for myself and others, so I have some chance of observation. — Stinger. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. J. 0. Manson, Harford, U.S. America. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. Dickson & Robinson, 12, Old Millgate, Manchester. — Catalogue of Stove and Greenhouse Plants. R. Pennell & Son, Lincoln. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. C. Pocock, Wincanton, Somerset. — Catalogue of Flower and Vege¬ table Seeds. Walter Ford, Panther, Basingstoke. — Catalogues of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. Hogg & Wood, Coldstream-on-Tweed. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. Richard Dean, Bedfont and Ealing. — Catalogues of Vegetable and Flower Seeds, Flc fists’ Flowers, and Potatoes. William Paul ifc Son, Paisley. — List of New Pansies and Pinks. Vilmorin, Andrieux et Cie., 4, Quai de la Megisserie, Paris. — Cata¬ logue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. Carl Cropp, Erfurt. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. E. G. Oakshott & Co., Reading, Berks. — Catalogue of Seed Corn , Beans, and Peas. %* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. AVe request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Cutting Down Vines (J. T. S.). — Do not cut them down. We will reply more fully next week. Letters that arrive on Wednesday cannot be answered satisfactorily in the next day’s issue. Fragrant Camellia (J S. G.). — The flowers you sent are very slightly fragrant, and we have observed a similar scent in this and other varieties, but it is never very strongly marked, and is quickly lost after the flowers are removed from the plant. The variety is apparently the old variegata. Pruning Raspberries (Novice). — Your canes are evidently very strong. If you cut “ clean off ” all the side growths to which you refer, you will pro¬ bably remove some of the best bearing wood. Thin them out, retaining those that are strong and furnished with prominent buds. Many of the shoots will be so small as to be of little use, and these you may cut off as you suggest. Do not overcrowd the canes ; five or six to each stake will be ample. If trained to a fence they should be about 6 inches apart, and if very long they may be trained obliquely, so as to have a greater length for bearing. Chrysanthemums for Pots (/l. C.). — We presume you do not require the plants for exhibition, and have therefore named those which are distin¬ guished by their free-flowering qualities. Incurved— Mrs. G. Ruudle, Mr. G. Glenny, Mrs. Dixon, Prince Alfred. Japanese— Early Red Dragon, Elaine, Bouquet Fait, James Salter. Reflexed— Julia Lagravfere, Chevalier Domage. Anemone — Fleur de Marie and Mr. Astie. Six good useful Pompons are the following — White and Golden Cedo Nulli, Mdlle. Marthe, Rosinante, Fanny, and Soeur Melanie, which is rather larger than ordinary Pompons, but very free. Chrysanthemums ( Saltburn ). — Rooted suckers potted now and kept in cool frames, or cuttings struck in early spring and liberal culture given to the plants, will afford you a better supply of flowers than you can obtain by keeping the old plants as you propose. These if planted out in a sheltered position February 8. 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 123 ■where protection could be afforded in late autumn would give you a supply of flowers for cutting that might be useful ; but first have a stock of young plants established for yielding an abundance of good blooms. Stephanotis not Flowering (Reader). — Your plant may still flower as the season advances ; if it does not you have applied to us too late for informa¬ tion that will enable you to induce it to flower this year. Its failure to produce flowers will be the result of too much heat and moisture during the winter. If it continues growing luxuriantly you had better make the soil firm, or other¬ wise restrict root-action towards the end of August, and lessen the supply of water, maintaining also a drier atmosphere. From October onwards through the winter the soil may be kept comparatively dry, only giving water when the foliage commences to feel flaccid and limp when pressed between your finger and thumb, a temperature of 60° falling to 55° in the winter being ample. If a plant has had its growth ripened in the autumn followed by a rest in winter does not produce flowers in the spring it will in all probability be a shy-bloom¬ ing variety with large leaves, and not worth the space it occupies. Liquid Manure for Mushroom Beds (I. IF. Mansfield). — The drain¬ ings from stables consisting largely of urine can only be applied with advantage to Mushroom beds when they are so dry as to need watering, aud this ought never to be the case with new beds, as if the material of which they are made is not moist fermentation will not occur to produce the necessary heat. Beds that are more or less exhausted by heavy crops, and also dry, are often benefited by liquid manure applied at a temperature of 80° or 90°. Pure mine must be diluted with six times its volume of water, and is then valuable to all Mush¬ room beds that need additional moisture, not otherwise. If a drop of water can be squeezed from the manure by the hand it is too moist for Mushrooms ; aud if a handful will not “cake ” or adhere when firmly grasped it is too dry. You can by this rule determine whether to use the drainage or not in the manner you suggest. Heating Apparatus Unsatisfactory (Horlus). — From your description of the disposition of the pipes, and the sketch showing the return pipes, we are unable to notice any defect in the arrangement. It is likely, however, that there may be air lodging somewhere in the system, yet this ought not to be the case if there be air pipes, as there ought, at the highest part of the pipes where the return is made to the boiler. The highest point of the system being in each case at the doorway, there should be an air pipe in each flow pipe at that point. Whether the unsatisfactory state of the apparatus is due to defective circula¬ tion. or arises from the bad setting of the boiler, is a question for decision on the spot only ; otherwise we see nothing, except the want of air pipes, that should prevent the apparatus heating well. Syringing Peach Trees (F. C.). — We do not remember the strength of the petroleum mixture that you said you had used ; but we thought it so strange that you should apply it to the blossoms, that we carefully searched your letter for some qualifying sentence. The mistake on the subject was, as you say, “ wholly your own.” As the dressing has not injured the trees it will certainly act as a preventive of insects as well, probably, as anything else would ; but we do not consider frequent applications of petroleum desirable. We have used tobacco water, diluting the strong juice with six times its volume of water, and nicotine soap is equally effectual. If you syringe your trees with this at the strength of 3 ozs. to a gallon of water just before the flowers expand, you will not be troubled with many insects on the blossoms, and if any appear dust them with tobacco powder or snuff. Apple Scions (Idem). — We do not know from whence you can obtain scions of the varieties you require. There is no Apple named Mrs. Ward, but there is a Baron Ward. The Mr. Morris to whom you have written died about half a century ago. The site of the old Brompton Nursery is covered with fine buildings, including the South Kensington Museum. We doubt if the Columbia Plum can be had in this country. You say you have applied to many nursery¬ men, but do not mention Messrs. Richard Smith & Co. of Worcester. Our reply to your last query is — Yes, there has been a slight alteration. Cinerarias Defective ( F . (!.). — You ask if frost would cause the florets to curl, as in the flowers you have sent. It would do so, and it is impossible to have satisfactory flowers if they are allowed to be even to the slightest extent frosted. Insects produce somewhat similar results when they are allowed to cluster on the stems just under the flower buds, as they puncture them and extract the sap that is requisite for the support of the blooms. If you had not mentioned frost we should have concluded that insects had caused the evil, and we are still inclined to think that they have had a share in the work. We suspect also they were lurking under the buds for some time before the time you state that they “made their appearance.” You afford us no guidance what¬ ever for determining the cause of the Pelargonium leaves withering. Extreme dryness at the roots, excessive fumigation, escape of noxious gas from a flue, or keeping the plants in a very moist atmosphere, then exposing them suddenly to a drying current of air, would cause the margins of the leaves to wither like the one you have sent. If you had briefly stated the conditions under which the plants were grown and the treatment they had received we should in all probability have been able to give a more explicit reply. Cutting down Rhododendrons (IF. (?.).— The effect of cutting down the shrubs in the manner you suggest would necessarily render them unsightly for a long time, and some of them might, not produce fresh growths freely. I his depends entirely on the condition of the shrubs as to vigour and the age and character of the wood. We have seen healthy shrubs break freely, and some of them afterwards grow even too luxuriantly, while others we have seen do little or no good after the operation. You had perhaps better try the experi¬ ment of cutting a few of them down and note the results. We cannot incur the responsibility of advising you to clear an embankment in the manner you suggest without knowing something of the actual condition of the shrubs, and on this point you do not say one word. Healthy shrubs cut down now may be expected to mature their growths and produce at least some flowers next year ; but if not cut down until after they have flowered in June they will not flower with any freedom for at the least two years. Inarched Vine (J.B.). — If your rod of Mrs. Pince is satisfactory by all means retain it. It will do quite as well on the stock, provided it is healthy, as on its own roots. Had we known the length and strength of the young cane we could possibly have given you more useful advice. We can only counsel you not to overcrop it, but shorten, if needed, so as to induce stronger growth next year. If there is space for the foliage to develope under full ex¬ posure to the sun it will not be necessary to cut down the stock now, and so deprive yourself of a crop of Grapes ; but if there is not space you may' cut off the spurs from the lower part of the stock for admitting light for the future Vine, while, at the same time, the upper portion of the stock will afford Grapes next summer. Autumn, just after the leaves have fallen, is the best time for cutting down Vines. If cut down at this season of the year excessive bleeding not infrequently results, which it is not easy to check. Daphne indica rubra (Q. L. K.\ — This plant is almost hardy, and con¬ sequently will not long thrive in a stove temperature of 60° to 65°. To grow Daphnes well they should have cool-frame treatment, the pots being stood on ashes or some other moisture-holding material. In spring, when these plants tit are starting into growth, the frame can be closed early in the afternoon, so as to husband as much sun heat as possible to assist them in making their growth, at the same time syringing the plants occasionally. Aftergrowth is completed the lights should be gradually removed until they can be left off day and night, or the plants stood outside to form their flower buds. They are best in the frame, so that the lights can be placed over them during wet weather. During frosty- weather the lights must be kept on, giving abundance of air when favourable. If the weather proves very severe the frame must be well covered with mats or other protecting material to exclude frost if possible. It is a good plan during sharp weather to plunge the pots entirely in cocoa-nut fibre to keep frost from the roots. AVe have seeu the soil in the pots frozen quite hard without the slightest injury resulting to the plants, but it is better to avoid such risks. During the spring Daphnes can be forced into bloom by the aid of gentle warmth in a greenhouse, but in no stage should they have such a high temperature as you are keeping your plants in. After flowering they must again be gradually inured to cool treatment again, or they will not long retain their vigour. Let your plants be removed to the coolest part of the stove for a few days, then to the warmest part of the greenhouse, and subsequently to a still cooler position, so as to avoid a sudden check. After flowering place them in a frame, and if the roots are active healthy growths will follow for producing flowers next year. These plants must be watered carefully in all stages, especially during the winter season. Gardenia Buds not Swelling (Idem).— It is impossible to give an ex¬ plicit reply in a case where no data is afforded to guide us, and can only say that the flower buds of Gardenias do not swell very rapidly at first, and to all appear¬ ance remain stationary. If your plants have been checked, or are in an unsatis¬ factory state at the roots, they may not swell at all, but eventually turn yellow and fall off. If their roots are healthy, the buds fresh and green, and the plants have sufficient heat, you may expect the flowers to expand more rapidly from this date, and in due course properly develope. Raising Vines in Turves (II. S.). — We have raised Vines in turves and have produced most satisfactory canes without the use of liquid manure : but the turf was taken from rich pasture land, and further, as the Vines increased in size the turves were placed on a layer of rich soil and decayed manure, the spaces between them being filled with the same material. As soon as the roots took possession of this, and before it was interlaced with them, the Vines were planted, and the canes produced were most satisfactory, being strong, short- jointed, and with little pith. If the turf is poor, weak liquid manure applied once a week would doubtless be beneficial, but it would not be needed until the Vines had made considerable growth and the turves were thoroughly permeated with roots. Until Vines have made much growth, say until the middle of August, they need the treatment of stove plants — that is, a genial atmosphere, water in sufficient quantity to maintain free growth, with light and air to keep Fig. 36. them sturdy, but no cold currents to cause the foliage to flag. In the autumn a drier atmosphere, abundance of air, and all the light possible are requisite for ripening the wood, but they must not suffer by want of water at the roots. As you sre inexperienced you must not expect to succeed like a Thomson on the first attempt ; and, besides, if you have no better eyes to start with than those you sent us last week it will not be possible for you to produce superior canes. The roots of your Vines have probably penetrated into ungenial subsoil, and do not obtain the support they need, aud the wood is certainly immature conse¬ quent on that, and probably insufficient heat and ventilation in the autumn. It is not unlikely, too, that the Vines were overcropped and the growths overcrowded. If the border is permeated with roots near the surface, and the growths are suffi¬ ciently exposed to light and air, the canes will be shorter-jointed and contain less pith. The wood marked No. 1 is a good size for propagating, but we attach more importance to the character of the wood and the buds than to mere size. The annexed figure represents a Vine eye prepared for insertion. Pigmy Vines (Idem). — The Vines to which you refer as bearing from one to four bunches of Grapes in 4 to 6-inch pots, were, as is stated by Mr. Hender¬ son, the cultivator of them (see page 236, September 26th, 1867), “ raised from cuttings from Vines that had been started in February. The cuttings were taken off the old Vines after the fruit was set, and potted in 5, 6, and 7-inch pots.” For striking as suggested a brisk moist heat and a close atmosphere for a time would be essential, and then success could only be achieved by a skilful propagator and cultivator. AA'e have not tried the plan. Names of Fruit (II. //.).— No, 1 is apparently a fine specimen of Margil, but has been kept too long for us to determine with accuracy. No. 2 is AA'inter Greening. (Coloile Browne). — 1, Vicar of AVinkfield ; 2, Knight’s Monarch ; ?, Ne Plus Meuris ; 4, Bergamotte Esperen ; 5, Cornish Gilliflower ; 6, not known, evidently worthless in your soil ; regraft the tree with No. 4. (.1. Me.). — - 1, This is the spurious variety of Knight’s Monarch, which Mr. Knight himself distributed by mistake. 2, Angelique de Bordeaux, only fit for stewing. Names of Plants (II. S.). — Your plant is Marattia elegans, a species of Fern from Norfolk Island and New Zealand ; most of the forms of this genus inhabit swampy districts, and consequently require abundant supplies of water in cultivation. It will succeed in the ordinary warm fernery or stove. Moving Stocks (Lex).— There is little or no risk in moving bees at this period of the year, and if you sustain any loss at all it will only be very slight. CO VENT GARDEN MARKET— FEBRUAUT 7th. MARKET very quiet. A fair supply of early forced vegetables reaching us, but good samples of late Grapes are short at previous quotations. 124 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 8, 1883 FRUIT. 8. d. 8. (1. 8. d. 8. d. Apples . * sieve 2 Oto7 0 Grapes . 2 0 to 5 0 » . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Lemons . 10 0 20 0 Apricots . . cloz. 0 0 0 0 Melons . . each 0 0 0 0 Cherries . . £ sieve « 0 0 0 Nectarines . . dozen 0 0 0 e Chestnuts . . bushel 10 0 12 0 Oranges . . 100 6 0 10 0 urrants, Black. . } sieve o 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 „ Ited... . j sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen . dozen 1 0 2 0 Figs . r> 1 0 1 0 2 0 Filberts . lb. o 0 0 0 Pine Apples, En glish tb. 1 6 2 0 Cobs . . ioo rt. . o 0 0 0 lb. 0 0 0 0 Gooseberries ... . | sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .. .. lb. 0 0 0 0 VEGETABLES. 8. d. S. d. 8. d. 8. d Artiehnkes . o 0 1 0 f.n 1 r, Asparagus, French bundle 25 0 30 0 Mushrooms 0 1 « Beans, Kidney .. 100 i 0 0 0 Mustard & Cress .. punnet 0 2 0 s Beet , Red . 1 0 2 0 Onions . 2 3 2 6 Broccoli . 0 9 1 6 Parsley . doz. bunches 3 0 4 0 Brussels Sprouts . i sieve i 6 2 0 Parsnips . . .. 1 0 2 0 Cabbage . 0 6 1 0 Pea s . 0 0 0 0 Capsicums . . 100 1 6 2 0 Potatoes . . . . 6 0 7 • Carrots . 0 4 0 0 Kidney., .. 6 0 8 0 Cauliflowers _ . dozen 2 0 3 0 Radishes.... doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Celery . 1 6 2 0 Rhubarb . . . . 0 4 0 0 Coleworts _ doz . bunches 2 0 4 0 Salsafy . 1 0 0 0 Cucumbers . i 6 2 0 Scorzonera l « 0 8 F.ndive . 1 u 2 0 Seakale .... 1 0 2 0 Fennel . 0 3 0 0 Shallots .... tb. 3 0 0 Garlic . 0 6 0 0 Spinach .... 3 O 0 0 Herbs . 2 0 c Tomatoes .. tb. 1 6 2 0 Leeks . 0 3 0 4 Turnips .... . bunch 0 2 0 3 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. GOAT FARMING. ( Continued from page 105.) The milk produce of Goats now requires our attention, as there is every prospect of the milk maintaining a paying value, for it is at certain times of the year worth 5 s. or 6s. per quart in London ; indeed, at ordinary times the price is never lower than 2s. 6 d. up to 4s. per quart, and .before proceeding farther we will give its chemical composition in comparison with that of the cow and the ass, which will be seen by the following table : — G-oat. Cow. Ass. Casein . Butter . Sugar . . .. 5.28 .. . . 4.47 . . . . 6.08 Salts . Total solid matter. . . .. 13.20 .. .. 12.98 .. .. 12.02 Water . . .. 86.80 .. * .. 87.02 .. .. 91.65 100.00 100.00 100.00 The above table shows Goats’ milk to contain more solid matter than the others, hence its nutritious qualities. Its chief value, however, consists in its use for invalids, especially consumptive persons and infants. The means of keeping up a supply available at all times is so far a question of breeding as well as of manage- ment. We therefore proceed to make our remarks as to breeding. The usual time for the pairing of Goats in this climate is from September to November, and the period of gestation being five months, the kids will appear about March or April. Young Grasses will have then sprung up, especially if we choose a dry soil seeded with Italian Eye Grass and Cooksfoot, both of these being very early, but the latter is a permanent Grass and highly productive. We consider it is an important point that the milking period should be made to extend until within a week or fortnight of the time of parturition again, although the popular opinion is that the female should go dry of milk for two months, for reasons assigned ; but where the milk is so valuable the longer it can be maintained the better. With high feeding, housing in winter, and careful management this can be done, and would be likely to avoid all difficulties which sometimes prove fatal at the time of parturition, because high feeding up to the time is ofttn attended with inflam¬ mation, in the same way as cows are affected at calving time. The earliest age at which breeding may commence with the most advantage is two years, although, if allowed, the Goat will commence breeding at eight or ten months. About the age of seven years they will bring their best kids, although they will, if required, often breed until the age of twelve years. Feeding during the milking period should be liberal, with good hay either of Clover or Sainfoin, and roots, such as Cabbage, Carrots, or Potatoes, with Oats or bran, but what is better, crushed Wheat now it is so cheap, with water and rock salt at all times within reach ; but as soon as the animals go dry feeding should be more moderate as the time of parturition drawls near. In the case of the male animals intended for sale as mutton they should be cas¬ trated at about four or five months old, after which they may be fed on hay and roots as just stated, except that Barley or Beans may be used instead of Oats. The instances of Goat-farming upon a large scale are not much reported or known in this country, but we have been informed that in California one or more companies exist which have made the growth and sale of mohair their special objects, and very suc¬ cessfully, in consequence of the climate, &c., being so much like that of Asia Minor, Persia, and part of India. In this country, we are informed by a recent notice in the Agricultural Gazette by Mr. H. S. Holmes Pegler, Secretary of the British Goat Society, that the experiment of Goat-farming is being carried on in Surrey, and we suppose it refers to a Company which we have heard is being conducted on the estate of the Earl of Lovelace at East Horsely, between Guildford and Leatherhead. It is called the Express Company, and that the milk is forwarded to London in sealed bottles for a price varying from Is. 6d. and upwards per quart, at which price it is said to be profitable. This Company’s practice is no doubt the best model we have at present for reference as to proceedings, still we have but a simple notice, to which we have alluded. Our reference to the subject must now apply principally to the management of Goats in the hands of the amateur or farmers connected with suburban districts, where only a few animals or one only may be kept for the double object of the amusement and pleasure of the owner, or the finding of milk and cream for a family, and where it is inconvenient or impossible to find room for even the smallest Kerry or Jersey cow. Under the circum¬ stances we have named the Goats kept especially for their milk must be of a strain that are celebrated as milkers, but care must be taken in their daily management, or they may become very troublesome ; and to prevent them doing injury to trees ornamental or otherwise they should be tethered at daytime wherever it is attempted to graze them either upon lawns, tennis grounds, or orchards ; at night, however, for various reasons they should be housed in the summer and entirely so in winter. We must, there¬ fore, allude to the accommodation for them in house, but it need not be an expensive matter, for an unused stable may be made useful by making an earth floor 15 inches deep, rammed down hard, to every box, which may be partitioned, for we do not approve their being tethered in house, but should have the liberty of a space each of about 8 feet by 4 feet, and littered with straw or peat moss. The earth floor put in dry and being on a level will completely absorb all moisture-, and the air will be quite pure. In making a small Goat house it may well be a lean-to on the north-west side of a wall, and made of iron, which will be secure against all weather, and be well ventilated by louvre openings, and divided into as many apartments as are required. The mangers or feeding troughs may also be of iron, in which case, unlike wooden troughs, they can be kept quite clean without any trouble. The partitions may be of iron grating, except a box for the male Goat, which may be enclosed by galvanised corrugated iron, of the same material as we should recommend for the roof and frontage of the house. No racks will be required, because they are frequently dangerous for horned animals and wasteful of the food, which may be given in the troughs either as hay chaff, cut roots, vegetable or other leaves, meal or bran, without any waste at all ; a lump of rock salt also should be placed within reach. The north-west aspect for the Goat house is chosen because it can be made warm enough in winter and cool in summer. Although milk and cream is most important for household use in a family, and which may be secured with a supply all the year round by having the kids to fall at different periods, even if the milch animals went dry for a period ; but in the event of only one or two animals being kept it is important to have stock which will hold their milking produce for twelve months or longer, and by not breeding from them so frequently this may be done with the best milking stock and managed accordingly. It is often necessary to have some mode whereby fidgety or young animals February 8, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 125 can be made to stand quietly during the time of milking, but trough-feeding simultaneously with milking will go a long way towards quieting them. It is, however, frequently the case that the milking cannot be done without great loss of time in the operation, or the loss of the milk through the action of restless animals, in which case they are obliged to be confined in a guillo¬ tine or stocks, in which they are fixed by the neck andean neither move forwards or backwards ; but this need be only a last resort, and if it fails to answer it is best to dispose of the Goat. In the act of milking, just the same as with cows, gentleness and kind words will generally have its effect and enable the milking to be effected with promptitude ; but heavy milkers will require some¬ thing more than the usual twice-a-day milkine, for those whose bags are very supple and rapidly fill should have them emptied three times daily, when a greater return will be made, for with the Goat the more you take the more she will continue to yield, and for a longer period. For the first three or four months after parturition the yield continues at its height, but at the end of nine months it is customary to allow the supply to cease, but to this course we have before stated our objections. In Goat man¬ agement there is much more to be learned of detail than we can find space for in these columns ; but in order that all which is required for success in Goat-keeping may be learned we will advise not only the amateur but all who feel an interest in the subject to obtain a work, thoroughly practical, called “ The Book of the Goat,” by H. Stephen Holmes Pegler, which in a frontispiece gives an excellent illustration of an English milch Goat, which may well prove valuable to an intending purchaser. WORK ON THE HOME FARM. TTorse Labour. — Wheat-sowing is now generally finished, but some farmers still consider Wheat as the rent-paying crop, and we cannot deny it. A farmer recently told us that his ground which had been ploughed ready for sowing during the last two months, and that the land would not work with the harrows at any time since, and he feared it would not work until it became too late. He could have sown it long ago if he bad ploughed it again and sowed as fast as it was ploughed daily and hour by hour, but the idea did not occur to him. Our readers will remember that this is the plan we have advised during the whole of the past winter. Ploughing can still be done where it is to be fallowed for roots. In the case of Beans and Peas, however, the land should not be ploughed before, for these crops will always succeed best by ploughing and seeding simul¬ taneously, as this not only insures the work being completed as fast as undertaken, but also favours the growth of any pulse crop much more than when ploughed beforehand. This is not the case with the preparation for Oats or drege. because if the land for this crop is ploughed and pressed early it will settle down close with the heavy rains which usually occur in February, and the working of the land will be easily done on the first dry time afterwards, and after the Oats come up the land will be too close for the wireworm to injure them. Thus the ploughing may be done for these crops, the sooner the better. Care should now be taken not to disturb the land intended for Barley until the weather becomes dry, when it may be done by ploughing and sowing simultaneously even after roots have been fed on the land by sheep, but the land should not be disturbed until it is ploughed and sown. Some farmers, however, think that as fast as the roots are eaten the land should be scarified, fearing that heavy rains will wash away the manure, but we have not found this to be the case even on our hilly land, for the urine is the chief manure, and is absorbed as quickly as it is dropped, the ammonia fixed and deodorised. The dung of sheep is often so much trodden into the soil that it does not run away more than the urine. Hand Labour. — This has consisted of hedge-trimming and cutting, also forking out grass where only a few bunches are found, but in case a considerable quantity is left in the land it must remain until the land becomes dry enough to work the scarifier before ploughing. Examination of all drain work should now take place. We have just completed this work on a farm which was vacated at Michaelmas last; in some parts the drains have been repaired, and in all cases the outlets have been examined and made free from any obstruction. Live Stock. — The lambing season is now on with all varieties of Down sheep and their crosses. The long-wools will soon follow, and their keeping should be moderate, for root food, like Turnips and Swedes, should be given sparingly if at all. Cabbages are best for pregnant ewes ; but in the pasture districts good sweet hay without roots will be sufficient if the animals have access to rock salt and the opportunity of obtaining water, but what is better, a run at daytime on the chaik downs or limestone pastures. We knew a good farmer who would never give his ewes hay before lambing, but instead, did not feed his dry pastures after the 14th of July, and then in the early winter months the sheep were allowed a folding every day of this reserved late summer and autumn growth of grass, and he did this for fifty years with uniform success in the lambing fold and the general good health of his flock, but it is in strong land pasture districts without arable land where the difficulties arise. Would it not be wise to feed fatting bullocks or dairy cows only on such strong land pastures, and thus escape the fluke rot, and at the same time not injure or destroy the finer gasses by sheep feeding ? The store animals are not now allowed, nor the dairy cows either, to go on the pastures, as some of the finest pastures tread very much and are injured by winter feeding, therefore only dry paddocks near the farm buildings should be used as airing ground for any cattle in the wet winter months ; but all the young stock which are now being forwarded for the butcher should be kept in the hovels or boxes and fed carefully upon the principle of early maturity — that is to say, to give them the cotton cake as yearlings, with Swedes cut and mixed with it, and good sweet Oat straw, that arising from the white Oats being the best, up to the time of twelve months. After that time they should be kept in separate boxes and never see the sun nor feel the rain again until they pass to the butcher after being fed up to twenty or twenty-four months of age, with 4 lbs. linseed oil cake, 2 tbs. of bean or barleymeal mixed with cut roots, G4 lbs. of Swedes, or 5G tbs. of Mangolds, with sweet straw ad libitum per day. This is the only way by which we could ever make a profit on fatting bullocks, but in case we gave hay instead of straw it injured the health of the animals, and absorbed 3s. per week of the otherwise profit on feeding. POTATOES AS A FIELD CROP. Under this heading Messrs. Sutton & Sons of Reading have published a manual of eight pages, which is much more than a catalogue, inasmuch as the prices of the varieties enumerated are not quoted ; it is rather a record of the practice of independent cultivators, which is submitted to show that Potatoes may be grown with a fair amount of profit in this country. The following extract will show the nature of the work : — “ Report from a Bedfordshire grower, who annually sends an immense quantity of Potatoes to the London market. He is one of the most competent men we know to express an opinion on this subject. “ December 14th, 1882. “ Ten acres of Wheat stubble owing to unfavourable seasons con¬ tained a quantity of twitch in the autumn of 1881. This I deter¬ mined to plant with Magnum Bonurn and Reading Hero Potatoes depending upon this crop to clean the land also, hence the otherwise unnecessary amount spent on the cultivation. The following is the estimated cost per acre : — £ «. d. Rent and taxes . 300 Once ploughing in September, 1881 . 0 10 0 Harrowing the tilth, March, 1882 . 0 1 0 Twenty-five tons shortened manure, at 10,?. per tou ..12 10 0 Spreading manure . 020 Ploughing in seed Potatoes, April, 1812, per acre .. .. 0 10 0 Seed, 1 1 cwt., at 5.< per cwt . . 2 15 0 Women laying in Potato seed, ppr acre .. .. ..026 Scuffling land with six-horse scuffle across furrows after planting . 050 Once drag-harrowing with 4 horses . ..030 Twice harrowing at intervals (2-horse harrows) . . ..020 Horse-hoeing three times with grubbers fixed . . . . 0 4 C Hand-hoeing twice, at 4.?. per acre . 0 8 0 Earthing up with moulding plough . 0 2 6 Digging and sorting . 150 Drawing to railway (at 2.5. 6 d. per ton) 7 tons . . . . 0 17 6 Sowed broadcast before horse-hoeing, 80 bushels soot, per acre at 8 62 6 10 Trust towards Prize Money . . ) £ 214 39 4 11 7 11 6 Totals. £ s. d. 5,959 11 0 1,019 9 5 9 18 11 444 14 0 595 9 0 33 17 6 677 19 10 62 6 10 7,111 0 2 £6,542 6 1 261 0 5 6,803 6 6 „ Balance to General Revenue Account . £7.201 0 5 „ Debtors, viz : — 5,410 0 9 Annual Subscriptions outstanding . . Garden Produce . Sundries . Packing charges . „ Great International Fisheries Exhibition 31st Dec., 1881 1882. 1,700 19 5 402 3 40 19 0 214 3 39 4 0 4 11 30 8 8 7 11 6 £261 0 32 18 473 7 11 293 18 6 767 6 5 „ Investments— 3 per cent. Consols . 1,892 11 3 ----- . 29 0 11 £4.389 18 0 „ Petty Cash in hand . We have examined the above Accounts with the Books and Vouchers, and we find the same correct — JOHN LEE, ) 31st January, 1883. JAS. F. WEST, ] A,umols- We have examined the above Accounts with the Books and Vouchers, and we find the same correct. JOHN LEE, ) 31st January, 1883. JAS. F. WEST, } Aumtots. General Revenue Account, 31st December, 1882. Dr. To Annual Revenue Account: — „ Balance for the year 1 882 . CR. £ s. d. 397 13 11 1,323 10 2 11.721 4 1 £ s. d 1,721 4 1 11,721 4 1 We have examined the above Account with the Books and Vouchers, and we find the same correct. JOHN LEE, ) . ... JAS. F. WEST, J Audllors- 31st January, 1883. Annual Revenue Account for the Year ending 31st December, 1882. Expenditure. Cash paid. Debts payable. Establishment Expenses : — £ «. d. £ 8, d. £ s. d. Salaries . 259 2 8 259 2 8 Wages . 161 18 10 161 18 10 Printing, Stationery 1 and Cards . ) 104 0 5 48 13 10 152 14 3 Postage . 63 5 3 15 9 6 78 14 9 Gas . 19 19 5 9 10 6 29 9 11 Miscellaneous . , 131 13 5 33 16 3 165 9 8 Chairs . . 79 3 4 79 3 4 Law Charges . 911 0 4 911 0 4 Special Expenses in Relation to Horticulture : — Lecturer and Demon- | ■ 100 0 0 100 0 0 strator on Botany j Plant and Seed Dis¬ tribution . | 162 17 4 162 17 4 Fruit and Floral Com- i mittees . J 60 15 4 10 7 9 71 3 1 Grants in aid . . . 165 0 0 165 0 0 Chiswick Garden Expenses: — Rents, rates, taxes, 1 235 0 4 57 17 0 292 17 4 and insurance .. J Labour . . 1,028 16 6 1,028 16 6 Implements, Manure, &c. 133 5 10 133 5 10 Coal and Coke . . 166 14 4 23 12 0 190 6 6 Repairs . . 135 10 0 28 17 3 164 7 3 Trees, Plants, Seeds, &c. 23 12 2 6 9 0 30 1 2 Superintendent’s Salary. . 150 0 0 150 0 0 Water . . 14 1 5 14 1 5 Miscellaneous . . 88 15 4 7 18 6 96 13 10 Kensington Garden Expenses : — Rates, taxes, and insurance 505 7 10 605 7 10 Superintendent’s Salary. . 100 0 0 100 0 0 Labour . . 503 13 7 503 13 7 Repairs . .. 17510 4 6 11 6 182 1 10 Coal and Coke . 0 16 10 0 67 5 0 Implements and Manure 37 14 3 37 14 3 Water . 0 29 18 0 Reading Room . 9 1 16 0 24 17 9 Bands . 0 34 2 0 Miscellaneous . 10 5 9 0 17 3 11 3 0 Totals. £ s. d. 1,837 13 9 499 0 5 2,100 9 10 1,496 3 3 MISS NORTH’S ORCHID PICTURES. From all accounts these paintings are remarkably good, and should be seen by all who have the opportunity. I am in the position of a dweller in the far north, and in common with many more who are deeply interested in anything connected with Orchids, and who at the same time have not much chance of being in London, I feel that it would be a great boon to those who cannot visit London if the collection of paintings were exhibited in some of the chief towns throughout the country. They might remain in their present quarters for a year or two, and then be sent for a few months to several of the leading towns both in England, Scotland, and Ireland. Six months at twelve of our towns would be six years, and I feel certain that many more people would visit the exhibition in that time than would be the case if they remained the same time in their present quarters. Of course there may be a provision that will forbid such an exhibition of these paintings. I know not. But if there is not, I am sure great benefit would be conferred on many if those who have the management would allow this interesting collection to be shown in the provinces. The taste for Orchids is growing rapidly, and such a display of portraits of so many of these beautiful members of the floral family, as seen growing in their native places, would tend to increase their cultivation. Many people are banishing the idea that has long prevailed, that only those who have great command of heat, and are possessed of some myste¬ rious secrets in regard to cultivation, can grow Orchids satis¬ factorily. The fact is that anyone who has a love of gardening, and is possessed of a fair amount of intelligence, can grow many beautiful Orchids with a very moderate expenditure for heating without any initiation into particular secrets, and no very great amount of labour. Many gentlemen who only have one or two glass houses, and who spend their spare time in them, are now taking up the cultivation of Orchids, and when once the taste is acquired it developes very rapidly. The successful cultivation of many Orchids can be attained. Nothing can be more calculated to increase the appreciation of Orchids than the display of so many of them depicted so ably. Gardeners who have all the appliances, and are cultivating, it may be, thousands of Orchids ; gardeners who are following in the wake February 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 141 of their more fortunate brethren, and are growing only hundreds ; amateurs and others who have just begun, and count plants only by their tens — all these would, I am sure, welcome the coming of this collection of paintings to such towns as would enable them to benefit by their exhibition. The enormous number of Orchids imported is a sure sign that their cultivation is becoming general. The interest attaching to the flowering of some imported Orchid which is supposed to be something wonderful, the enthusiasm with which Orchid-lovers discuss their favourites, and the gene¬ rally elevating effect of a pure love for Orchids — all these have of times been remarked, and rightly too. Long may the taste for Orchids continue to grow ! One thing above all others will conduce to this growth, that is the more general display of these Orchid pictures. At least this is the opinion and the hope of one who entertains an unbounded regard for these lovely and exceedingly interesting plants. Others who have more ability to urge the claims of the country generally in this matter would confer a lasting favour on many, I am sure, if they exerted themselves to procure such exhibitions as I have ventured to suggest. — A Lover of Orchids. LADDER FOR CONIFERS. Wherever specimen Conifers are grown and taken a special interest in, some ready means of reaching their tops is very desir¬ able. The accompanying sketch shows an easy mode of doing so. It is simply an ordinary ladder, supported after the manner of common steps by placing a stout piece of wood across, about 3 feet from the top, of a larch pole or similar piece of timber. The top of the pole is put through between the rounds of the ladder at a convenient height, allowing the latter to rest on the cross made, the bottom of the pole being fixed through a piece of wood to prevent the support slipping outwards. When used on sloping ground the pole must always be placed on the highest side. If the ladder is a very long one, the safest plan is to steady it by means of two guy ropes at the top. Shorter ladders may safely be held by one man by means of a light pole fixed to the ladder by a ring, as shown at a in our sketch. The ladder is placed with its side to the tree, the bottom branches coming in between the ladder and the support. — R. Inglis. AN AMATEUR’S HOLIDAY. ABOUT ABERDEEN. I HAD long wished to see some of the nurseries in the far north. Among places to delight the heart of a lover of flowers I would assuredly place in the foremost ranks the establishment of Messrs. James Cocker & Sons, Aberdeen, a name well known to Scottish florists. Two fine days, a feast of flowers, and a hearty reception combined to render memorable a visit which I trust will only be the first of many. How much I regret that, having lost part of a few jottings I made, I must trust chiefly to memory to supply what I saw with so much gratification ; but several things are so impressed as to be easy of recall. In the last “ Rosarians’ Year Book,” so delightful and instruc¬ tive, even above its predecessors, Mr. Gray in his racy article, with its too-well-deserved strictures on Rose-showing in Scotland, has intimated the difficulties Messrs. Cocker have so triumphantly surmounted in Rose-growing. Let me interpolate that the gross offenders against even ordinary good taste whom Mr. Gray so humorously and so cordially castigates, are not merely, or, if the truth may be spoken, not principally amateurs. At Morningfield, out of upwards of forty acres, Mr. Cocker devotes a large space to Roses. In addition to all the leading Hybrid Perpetuals I saw a full collection of Bennett’s Hybrids. Of these, Duchess of Connaught and Pearl were extremely fine ; the full flowers and the scent of the former pleased me much. Numbers of Teas on seedling and Briar cuttings were most attractive. Among them Catherine Mermet and Niphetos were already flowering on plants worked that season. I was also shown Etoile de Lyon in bloom within the enclosure, the possession of which, or another such “ snuggery,” Mr. Gray affirms would be enough to make him “go daft.” It would certainly not be easy to secure such another quarter for Teas, and, judging from what has already been accom¬ plished within it, we may look for something worth seeing from this house at our future shows. I saw also Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, a beauty. Blooms of this variety from plants, the parent of which had been obtained somewhat early, had been exhibited at Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Aberdeen. I was glad to see such a collection of hardy Primroses, Primulas, and Polyanthuses as Mr. Cocker has. I had long wished to know where a collection of these was to be met, and here at Morningfield 'I found them made a speciality. To lovers of these charming flowers I throw out this hint worth having. Many of our finest Pansies are the production of the same bouse. I was delighted with those I saw at Morningfield. The northern air appeared to have refined the complexion of the white grounds especially. I pass over the extensive department of forest and other trees to hasten to the grounds of the firm which may now be said to be within the city. At Sunnybanlc Pansies were again well repre¬ sented. A fine display of Dahlias was met here, including the Pompons and the single varieties. A very extensive assortment of double Pyrethrums, an usually comprehensive break of Poten- tillas, another of herbaceous plants — were a few of the attractions. But what most fascinated me was the collection of Carnations and Picotees. I could have spent hours over these alone. It was the best assortment I have seen. To them is attributable the fact that I can say so little about the houses at Sunnybank, as with a look at a small collection of Orchids I hurried over masses of decorative and other plants, which would no doubt have offered great attrac¬ tions to many, to return to these alluring flowers. One thing that surprised me was the size and vigour of the plants. A few sent me by a friend did little more than spindle into bloom, and in¬ quiries showed that last season this had been generally the case ; but the Sunnybank plants were large, and the vigorous and sturdy “grass” had been successfully layered. The beauty of the varie¬ ties I saw, for I was rather late to catch them in general bloom, made a craze for Carnations and Picotees seem the likely terminus of a first attachment. I noted the names of some of the most beautiful sorts, but finding that with Cyprus, Mrs. A. Chancellor, Mrs. Langtry, and Queen of Summer I had reached fully three dozen, I thought it advisable to seek safety in flight. It is some¬ what of “a far cry ” to Aberdeen when time has to be husbanded, but stern necessity alone will prevent me from again visiting Messrs. Cocker’s when next their Carnations and Picotees are in flower. The Polmuir nurseries of Messrs. William Smith & Son are a little way from Aberdeen. There I saw the Mule Pink Napoleon III., and was struck with it as a bright plant for a mixed border. I believe the principal grounds of the Messrs. Smith are at Kintore, about thirteen miles off, where the collection of herbaceous plants is very complete. Directly opposite Polmuir is Deemount Nursery, where Mr. J. MacPherson demonstrates what can be successfully achieved in conducting a very flourishing and comprehensive florists’ business in moderate space. Discreet arrangement and skilful treatment provide for the accommodation of a stock more complete JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 142 [ February 15, 1883. than many a one that monopolises a far greater space. In addition to many other good plants, a fine bed of Petunias and another of Pansies and Violas were very attractive. His Carna¬ tions and Picotees were select if not numerous, and the fact that on the way home I twice saw consignments of these and Pansies from Deemount would seem to imply that Mr. MacPherson has a name for them considerably beyond his locality. Almost the only Gladioli 1 met in the north were here, but they were second- rate sorts. On the way out by Ferry Hoad and at other places about Aberdeen I could not help noticing the extent to which Tropseolum canariense is grown. It was really beautiful on the fronts of many cottages and villas. My impression that human nature is much the same wherever we go, whatever difference there may be for the better being, of course, always on the side of the lovers of flowers, is consider¬ ably deepened by my visit to Aberdeen. Whether or not we really are “ a’ John Tamson’s bairns ” the experience of anyone who finds the material of the granite city at all emblematic of the hearts of her sons must differ not a little from mine. — A Northern Amateur. P. S. — Relative to the Richardia-like plant alluded on page 113, it is a true Richardia, as I was careful to inquire, but produces nearly black spathes. — A. N. A. jfc) ciio ' Q m qp WORK.foi\theWEE11. 1 !3f!!!!i|| 1 i ' -ss. ^ -WtPnml ! [ By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments.'] KITCHEN GARDEN. Excessive rain is retarding kitchen garden operations to a greater extent than has been experienced for some years. Some¬ times one fine day allows us to dig over some ground for sowing or planting, but heavy rain soon follows, and it is most difficult to get any crop in satisfactorily. Under such circumstances it is better to wait, as it is a great evil to sow seeds or insert plants when the ground is saturated. A few frames and handlights are of the utmost importance in such a wet spring as this, as many young vegetable plants can be then brought forward. A gentle hotbed is a great assistance ; but we do not approve of this to any great degree, as, although Cauliflowers, Brussels Sprouts, and Lettuces grow rapidly at this season with a gentle bottom heat, there is always much danger of their being severely checked when they are deprived of this and planted out. Frames placed on the ordinary garden soil in which seeds of different vegetables are sown will afford a batch of hardy dwarf plants for placing out a month or six weeks hence. Potatoes. — The main crop of early Potatoes should be planted this month. This crop should be confined to south borders. From 20 inches to 2 feet between the rows, and 15 inches from set to set, are suitable distances for most early Potatoes. The earliest Potatoes in frames now require earthing-up. Where the surround¬ ing soil is not sufficient more should be introduced ; rough ma¬ terial is much better for the purpose than fine soil. Many of our best show Potatoes are very tender and liable to disease. When planted late and not matured until August or September the finest tubers are generally lost, but if planted in early spring and lifted in June or July they will be found in excellent condition. With this object in view allow the sets to form robust sprouts, and pre¬ pare the ground for their reception on the first opportunity. Carrots. — Seed of French Horn Carrots may be sown in a favourable position. A light soil is most suitable at this season. Where young Carrots are growing in the frames the plants, if thick sowing was practised, may be too close to admit of healthy development, and they should be examined occasionally that tho masses may be thinned-out before they are drawn. Carrots which were stored in sheds in autumn are now growing again from the crowns, and to prevent this they should all be turned over, the growths rubbed off, and placed back again in dry sand or leaf soil. Beetroot and Parsnips, Salsafy and Turnips, should be treated in the same way. Globe Artichokes. — These should now have attention. The earliest heads are produced on plants which have been established for some time. As a rule, however, manure is placed round them during the winter, and this should be forked into the surface. Where plants are scarce the old one3 may be taken up, divided, and planted again. They delight in a deep rich soil and an open position. Rhubarb roots maybe treated in the same manner. Old Seakale roots from which a crop is not expected should be taken up, each crown cut away with a piece of root attached and replanted. This is an easy way of securing a fresh Seakale plantation. Ilorseraeish. — Where this has been growing in the same place for some years it should be dug up. Select the best roots and replant them. We prefer pieces about 12 inches long, as thick as an ordinary walking-stick, and quite straight. Let the soil be rich and deep. Lay in the remainder in a corner to meet demands until the new plantation is ready for use. Onions. — Those sown in autumn should be transplanted. Just enough should be left in seed beds or rows to form a crop, and all others should be planted in a very rich piece of ground ; allow 15 inches between the rows and 10 inches from plant to plant. Place finely sifted ashes over Peas which are coming through the ground, as snails may do them much harm. Earth up and stake those more advanced. Birds are particularly fond of pulling up young Radish plants, and to prevent this it is often necessary to place a piece of net over them at this season. Admit abundance of air to Cauliflower and other young plants under handglasses and frames. Many of the autumn-sown plants may now be moved to their bearing ground. Close to walls and between row's of Peas which have been lately staked are suitable places for early Cauliflowers. Early Onion seed may be sown in a well-manured border. Leeks. — Seed may be sown in any corner to supply a few plants for early shows. The soil cannot be too rich for them, but as those sown now will all be transplanted again a reminder of this will be given by-and-by. The last batch of Asparagus may be put in. It may be had readily now in any house or frame where the top and bottom heat is about 70°. Kidney Beans should now be sown under glass in large quantities. Pot all advancing crops of Potatoes and Cucumbers. In many instances the latter will now be ready for the fruiting bed. Lumpy rich soil and a temperature of 70° will soon produce abundance of fruit. FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Herbaceous Borders. — The occupants of these borders seldom receive the treatment they merit. The majority being gross feeders and spreading rapidly, unless frequently manured, occa¬ sionally divided, and replanted, inevitably become weakly and flower very indifferently. Probably the best time to reform an herbaceous border is in the autumn, after many of the fibrous- rooted kinds are cut down. At this time and not later all bulbs which are usually intermingled may be moved. Phloxes, Pyreth- rums, Anemones, Asters, Dielytras, Fritillarias, Irises, Spiraeas, Tritomas, Delphiniums, Hemerocallis, Potentillas, Polemoniums, Tradescantias, and other plants of similar habit may all be and will be improved by being divided at the present time, a plunging fork being best for the purpose. Replant firmly, taking care to well cover the whole of the roots in deeply dug and freely manured ground. Heavy land will be much improved by a good dressing of leaf soil. The bulbs are now well advanced in all borders, and a dressing of short manure or leaf soil may be forked in without any risk. Careless workers and spades ought not to be trusted near herbaceous borders. Pinks and Carnations have been much preyed on by slugs, and the only remedy is to trap the ever- increasing pests. They collect in great numbers on heaps of bran or Broccoli leaves, and may then be destroyed. In drier weather they may be caught easily under pieces of slate laid flat on the ground. A brood of ducks may well be introduced into the kitchen garden, where the herbaceous borders are often disposed, more being hatched to replace them when too large to be either industrious or trusted. Propagating Bedding Plants. — Many Pelargoniums have damped off during the winter, and it will be necessary to strike a consider¬ able number this spring. At one time autumn-struck plants were much the best for summer flowering, but the varieties now gene¬ rally grown flower freely when struck in the spring, and the bronze, golden, and silver-variegated sorts are best struck at this time. All our old plants are in a newly started vinery, and when they have commenced growth the tops will be taken off and dibbled thickly in well-drained 8-inch pots, and stood on the staging over the hot-water pipes. Light sandy soil is employed, and no water is given till the cuttings are healed, or about a week ; afterwards water is given as required. The Ivy-leaf section and the scented-leaf kinds strike the most readily in heat, and these and the useful small yellow-leaved Robert Fish may thus be rapidly increased, the tops in each instance beina: allowed to grow till large enough to form other cuttings. We are also com¬ mencing to pot all the stronger varieties that were wintered in boxes, these being placed in the vinery above mentioned till esta- JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. February 15, 1883. ] 143 blished. Those who have to propagate and grow their bedding plants principally in cool houses and frames are advised to delay both the propagating and repotting the Pelargoniums till March. Dahlias, Salvia patens, beddiDg Fuchsias, Cineraria maritima, Centaureas of sorts, Marguerites, Gnaphaliums, Santolina incana, if introduced into a forcing house, will yield abundance of cut¬ tings, and which will strike readily in heat. As a rule, the beau¬ tiful Veronica Andersonii variegata strikes badly in the spring ; but we have succeeded with it, and those who may have strong old plants should place them in heat, and when the young growth is about 3 inches in length these should be taken off with a heel and struck. Cuttings of it strike more freely in the autumn, and when planted with Violas or Verbena venosa are remarkably effective. The most simple way to increase Verbena venosa is by cutting up the long fleshy roots into short lengths with two joints, dibbling-in these thickly in boxes of light sandy soil, and placing them on a hotbed. When plants are formed they may be hardened off and temporarily planted in cold frames in company with the shrubby Calceolarias. Tops of Golden Thyme dibbled-in thickly in pans or pots of light sandy soil and placed in a close frame, root quickly and form neater plants than are obtained by dividing the old roots. Polemonium coeruleum variegatum, though not extensively grown, is yet one of the best bedding plants we have. Dryness at the root and heat are most injurious to it, but plants wintered in cool houses and frames are now commencing growth, and at the same time emit roots near each crown. These crowns are detached from the main stem, dibbled singly into 3-inch pots, and placed in a cold frame. Good sandy soil is employed, and this is kept uniformly moist. In this manner handsome plants are soon grown, PLANT HOUSES. The Stove. — Eucharises that have flowered can now be potted before their growth is too far developed. Where a succession of bloom is required in preference to a good quantity at one time it is best to grow these plants in 5, 6, and 7-inch pots, placing two, three, or five flowering bulbs in each pot, according to their size. When in these pots, and the plants are prepared to bloom suc- cessionally, it is preferable to pot them as the various batches cease flowering, instead of going through the whole stock at one time. The liberal supply of water they require while in active growth soon renders the soil unfit for the roots, and on this account they should be annually repotted or liberally supplied with liquid manure and top-dressings. In potting all soil should be shaken from the roots, and the small bulbs removed, and if necessary to increase the stock they can be potted. The pots should be drained liberally, and the soil pressed firmly. The compost should consist of rich fibry loam and sand, to which should be added one 6-inch potful of bonemeal and nearly the same quantity of soot to each barrowful of soil ; a little charcoal broken to the size of cob nuts is also beneficial. The foliage should be supported by two or three small stakes and a piece of matting until the roots com¬ mence growth, which will be in ten or fourteen days if the plants are placed in a moist heat. Water at once after potting, and keep the foliage continually moist until the roots are growing freely. Sow in brisk heat seeds of Gloxinias, Tuberous Begonias for late flowering, Torenia Fournieri (a fine plant for the decoration of the conservatory during summer), Celosia pyramidalis coccinea and its variety aurea, Cockscombs, and Grevillea robusta. The whole, except the last-named, should be sown on the surface of the soil in the pans or pots used, which for the three former should be sandy and as even as possible, while the Celosia and Cockscomb seed is best sown on the surface of fine leaf soil. The Celosia is a valuable plant for decoration, and its coloured foliage useful for associating with cut flowers. It is of easy cultivation, and any quantity can be raised from seed, which should be fairly covered with soil when sown, as it is rather long in germinating. Water with a fine-rose can, and cover with glass and moss laid over it, until the seeds germinate. Fuchsias that have been at rest may now be pruned, and started by introducing them into a temperature of 50° to 55°. Moisten the dry ball thoroughly, and syringe liberally until they break. As soon as they have fairly started into growth shake the old soil from their roots, and repot in the same or larger pots if necessary. Employ a compost of two-thirds good loam to one of old Mush¬ room-bed refuse and leaf soil, to which add a good dash of coarse sand. Water carefully for a time after potting. Cinerarias that are showing their flowers should have weak stimulants every time watering is necessary, and nothing will prove more beneficial than clear soot water ; it acts quickly and imparts a dark hue to the foliage. The same applies to the earliest Calceolarias that are or should be well established in their flower¬ ing pots. Young plants of the former that were raised from seed sown late and kept in 3-inch pots can, if they are not showing bloom, be placed in others 2 inches larger, and will prove invalu¬ able towards the end of May. Succession al batches of Calceolarias will also need attention in potting. If success is to be achieved with these plants care must be taken that they do not suffer by the want of root room until after they are placed in their flower¬ ing pots. In potting use a compost of two-thirds fibry loam, one of leaf soil, with properly prepared cow manure and sand ; the latter should be rubbed through a rather fine sieve before mixing it with the other soil. . $p Be HE BEE-KEEPER. 1 , i , i . i . i . i.j ■ i • i ■ i ■ i ■ I — i t-i-i . i.i*i.ri.|.i.i.|»|.|-G|. FEEDING BEES IN AUTUMN, SPRING, AND SUMMER. (i Continued from page 81.) In our former letters we have spoken of the autumn and spring feeding of bees, and have put great stress on the necessity of feeding stocks in late summer when they are kept in a locality where there is no natural autumn harvest of honey. We wish to be well understood on this point, because not only the utility, but, indeed, the possibility of obtaining late hatches of brood have been called in question by some. Mr. Pettigrew’s letter in the Journal for February 1st, although at first sight seeming to differ from our opinion, really upholds us in our teaching, for he shows that when bees are sent from a locality in which the season has virtually ended, and where breeding therefore ceases, to the moors where another harvest is to be collected, those bees not only store honey, but “ fill their hives with brood from side to side.” Our first thorough examination of stocks which have passed through the present winter again proves the great advantage of autumn feeding. We fed all our bees last autumn until about the middle of September, so that the last brood was not hatched out until the first week in October. They are all in capital condition, but one hive in particular again repeats the lesson so often learnt — viz., that hives entirely deprived of their combs and stores, and fed on syrup and candy-cake in August and September, invariably prove the best of stocks in the following spring. This is of course provided that they are wintered in warm waterproof hives. A friend had a swarm of bees in a very large straw skep. Owing to the dull wet season it did not half fill this skep with combs. We were asked to take the bees, to run out for the owner what honey there was, and to put the bees into a bar- frame hive. We do not consider it worth the trouble to transfer the combs (excepting such as have brood to be hatched out) to the frames of the new hive. We gave full sheets of foundation, and fed the bees as mentioned above. Although surrounded by Heather, no honey was obtained from that source last autumn, owing to the wretched weather pre¬ vailing at the time. This stock of bees, therefore, was almost entirely fed upon sugar syrup and pea-meal cake. They increased rapidly after the transfer, and were wintered with six frames of comb. Examining them on the 6th inst. we found them certainly the best stock we have, not only as to strength, but also as to the beautifully clean and healthy appearance of their hive, and breeding had again commenced. We will now speak of the feeding of swarms. Let some bee¬ keeper who wishes to prove the utility of feeding swarms hive two swarms of about equal weight in separate hives. Should the weather be very fine still, let him gently feed one of the swarms, day and night if he will, but more especially each evening. After the lapse of a week or so let him examine and compare the two hives — the one having been left to Nature, and the other having been assisted. He will without doubt ever after feed his swarms. Every bee-keeper should become well acquainted with the time and season when the greatest flow of honey usually takes place in his district. In some favoured spots there are two or three harvests ; in others only one, and perhaps this must be all collected in the short period of some five or six weeks. We once depended entirely on the white Clover harvest, which was only at its height for a little over three weeks ; yet so great was the abundance of honey during that short space of time, that one stock would be working in as many as three or four supers (?) at the time. This was before we knew of sectional supers. On both sides of the brood -nest, behind it, and at the top, we have had receptacles simultaneously filled. But wliat an enormous colony we required to take all due advantage of this short harvest ! and these mighty legions were only to be had by so feeding up our stocks and harbouring their strength against the time when we knew to within a few days the harvest would begin. 144 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c February 16, 1888. Generations of bees had lived and died in the ordinary cottagers’ skep, and had been about at their best perhaps just as the time of harvest had passed by. Driven bees must of course be treated as swarms ; but since they are usually obtained late in the summer, and have little chance to store much food from natural sources, they must have sufficient food given them to carry them over to the following spring — from 15 to 30 lbs. of food, according to the strength of the colony. The food should be, as recommended for autumn-stimulating feeding, made with less water than that employed in spring and summer, and all feeding should be discontinued after the middle of October. Should the rescued colony have been taking the food gradually before, when October commences it should be fed rapidly. Should the weather have become cold and wet, and the bees disinclined to take the food, we have brought hives into a warm room or green¬ house, closed the entrance with perforated zinc, and fed rapidly every evening, putting the hive again into its place on fine morn¬ ings, to allow the bees to take a flight. All syrup not sealed over by the middle of October is to be extracted, otherwise it might ferment and cause the bees to have dysentery. A word of warning should here be given to beginners in the art of bee-keeping. The influence of such a mild winter as we have experienced in the south is to cause bees to consume great quantities of food, because they have been constantly on the move ; therefore there may be many cases in which feeding, which we term obligatory feeding, may now be required. We would not attempt to stimulate bees lo breed largely yet. In our former letter we said that we had learnt to be most careful how we excited our bees too early in the year ; but where food is running short, and it will be now in many hives, especially in the best, the healthiest, and the strongest, there we must renew the store, or the garrison will be starved out. The syrup should be given rapidly. It should be warm, and placed over the feeding hole, or at the side chamber of the hive, such as we have recommended. It should be given in the evening, so as to do away with any chance of bees from other hives having know¬ ledge of the operation. What is not taken down during the night should be removed in the morning, and again given warm the next evening. Later on this must be followed by stimulative food. Should there be signs of dysentery in any hives, some warm food should be given in the same manner as explained above, having mixed with it a teaspoonful of salicylic solution to every pound of food. The solution should also be used for spraying the combs, floorboard, and sides of the hive. We copy the recipe from Mr. Cowan’s book on bee-keeping : — Salicylic acid, 1 oz. ; soda borax, 1 oz. ; water, 4 pints. Bee-keepers should keep this solution by them in well-corked bottles, as it is invaluable to cure and prevent dysentery and the germs of foul brood. — P. H. P. (To be continued.) “ UN-GET-AT-ABLE ” HIVES. A very able and respectable correspondent, “P. H. P.,” has lately used this expressive compound word in referring to and in disparage¬ ment of straw hives. I rather like expressive -words if they are accurate and correct. But probably your correspondent used the word as a figure of speech, not as one conveying his own sober thought, for he must know that hives un-get-at-able are quite un¬ known in the apiarian world. From every point of view the word in question is inaccurate, and, in my opinion, misleading. I look back half a century, when numbers of bee-keepers I then knew were well informed in the mysteries of bee-keeping. It is true they knew nothing of bar-frame hives, for they never saw one or dreamt of their introduction, and if there was a book on bees in the district I should have heard of it. Yet these men living fifty years ago were in my opinion as well acquainted with the habits and natural history of bees as many of the most advanced experts and professors are now. The wonderful internal workings and doings of bees were unfolded to and well understood by these ancient bee-keepers. And all this knowledge was gained from hives which “ P. H. P.” is pleased to call “un-get-at-able.” Large har¬ vests of honey, as well as accurate knowledge and experience, were obtained from these hives, and the difficulty of taking the honey did not trouble these old bee-keepers much. I come now to notice my experience with and amongst such hives. In my hands they have been well and fairly tested. I like them exceedingly, and better after every year’s trial. They have never once failed in a very extensive practice. In them I can get or cause to be bred as many queens as I wish, and from them I have no difficulty in extracting young queens as they arrive at maturity. By turning up a straw hive (and this is easily done), I can examine the internal doings of the bees, see what progress is being made, and learn all that is necessary to know in the management of an apiary. Indeed, I have been able to examine twelve straw hives, and see all I wanted to see, while those of the bar- frame school have been busy examining one of theirs. Brood healthy and brood unhealthy, queens fertilised and unfertilised, can all be noticed in these hives. I have seen harvests of honey taken from straw hives which I think would please and astonish “ P. H. P.” and other modern bee-keepers. Such harvests of honey from bar-frame hives would gratify their owners, and I earnestly hope that such will be obtained. I anticipate that the coming season will be a good one for honey, and that hives of all kinds will be well stored. 1 have ordered thirty-two straw Stewartons to be made for my swarms. As soon as they arrive other orders will be given for more Stewartons and straw hives. Our respected friends may rest assured that if they be well filled I shall “ get at” the honey and send it to market, for it is my intention to keep an accurate balance sheet of the expenses and profits of my apiary this year, and present it to the bee-loving community of Great Britain. What¬ ever the profits may be will be the outcome of straw hives. — A. Pettigrew, Bomdon. WINTER BREEDING OF BEES. After reading the remarks of “ P. H. P.” on autumn feeding, I took the first opportunity of a mild day, with the thermometer registering 49°, to examine our bees, thinking possibly they may have been in want of food, as they were not fed in the autumn, and each hive was reduced to six frames. I was rather surprised in two of them to find many young bees, apparently just hatched, also a quantity of brood, some of which were hatching, enough to nearly fill a frame in each of them. In one hive the queen was reared about the end of July, in the other the queen was reared the summer before ; and as these were treated in the same way as the other hives with queens of the same ages, I cannot account for so much brood at this time of the year. — J. L. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Benjamin Pounsett, High Street, Wallingford, Berks. — Catalogue of Vegetable and Flower Seeds. James Yates, 29, Little Underbank, Stockport. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. %* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. A Strange Plant (Halifax). A plant which grows with its roots above ground and all the rest of its growth below ” is something quite new to us, and perhaps your friend can furnish you with some further particulars concerning it, which would, we should think, be rather interesting. He must be an ex¬ tremely observant person, and deserves much credit for his discovery. Carpet Bedding Plants (S. J. W.). — The Acrena you name can be raised from seed, or by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in a cool frame, but we doubt if you would be able to raise sufficient stock by bedding-out time. In addition to the other plants you name you might grow Oxahs corniculata rubra and Ajuga reptans to furnish the dark colour ; both have reddi-h foliage, the first-named being exceedingly dark. The first can be increased by seed and the latter by division of the roots. Conifer Hedge (Idem). — We know of no Conifer that makes a more beau¬ tiful hedge than Thuia Lobbi. It grows closely without being formal, is very hardy, and retains its bright green colour throughout the winter. You can obtain plants of the height you require from nurserymen who grow Conifers largely. Thuia occidentalis, the American Arbor- Vitae, is much cheaper, and also forms a neat hedge, so does Cupressus Lawsoniana. The Yew hedges are the closest of all, but the colour may, perhaps, be too sombre for your purpose. Potting Tuberous Begonias (G. S„ Renfrew). — The tubers should be placed in light gritty compost, surrounding them with silver sand, and just covering them with soil ; or, to be more precise, those less in size than a walnut may be covered a quarter of an inch deep, those that are larger twice that depth, and very large ones 3 inches in diameter may be placed an inch below the surface. If the pots can be plunged in a bottom heat of 80“ or 85° it will be an advantage in facilitating the growth of the plants. Peach for Wall (IT. T. G. IT., Reading). — Grosse Mignonne was, we think, February 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 145 the variety to which you refer. It is one of the best Peaches in cultivation, and you cannot err by obtaining a tree of it for the aspect you name. You will find the protection of nets valuable in such an exposed position. Pelargoniums Damping (J. — The reason the leaves of your plants have withered is the result of their having been potted too late, and had not time to produce roots for supporting the foliage. Had they been potted a month sooner the roots would have been active before winter, and the majority of the leaves would have been kept healthy. You would have done better to have in¬ serted the cuttings in the pots in August, instead of in the open ground and potting so late in the season. You had better keep the house rather close and warm now to encourage fresh growth ; a night temperature of 50° will be suit¬ able, applying water and affording ventilation on mild days as heretofore. Roses for House and Garden (A. T.).~ The following are suitable Teas for a house : — Satrano, Isabella Sprunt, Due de Magenta, Niphetos, Cathe¬ rine Mermet, Abricote, Homfere, David Pradel, Madame Lambard, Marie Sisley, Madame Ducher, Madame Margottin, Cheshunt Hybrid, Duchess of Edinburgh, Belle Lyonnaise, Yicomtesse de Cazes, Madame Trifle, Madame Berard, Madame Alexandre Bernaix, Letty Coles, and Marie Van Houtte. Good Hybrid Per- petuals are La France, Comtesse d’Oxford, Jules Margottin, Alfred Colomb, Madame Lacharme, Senateur Yaisse, Duke of Edinburgh, and General Jacquemi¬ not. The following will be suitable for your purpose in a garden in a smoky district: — Marquise de Castellane, Jules Margottin, John Hopper, Gloire de Dijon, Souvenir de Malmaison, Comtesse d’Oxford, General Jacqueminot, Prince Camille de Bohan, Duke of Edinburgh, Marguerite de St. Amand, Madame de Cambacires, Elizabeth Vigneron, Cheshunt Hybrid, Madame Clemence Joig- neaux, Boule de Neige, Madame Yictor Yerdier, Marechal Vaillant, La France, and the common Moss. Preparing Ground for Lawn (A. D., Isle of Man).— By taking advan¬ tage of favourable weather for carrying out the plan as described in your letter, we have no doubt you will succeed in your object. We should not think of incurring the great expense that would be involved by the counter proposal. If a week or two of bright weather should occur in March so as to dry the refuse that works to the surface, it would be an excellent plan to rake it in small heaps and burn it, carefully spreading the ashes and an inch or two of the scorched soil below on the land ; if you do not do this you will have dark patches of grass where the burning has been done. The surface must be made firm and smooth before sowing the seed. Lifted Vines ( J . T. S.). — We can scarcely understand Vines six years old only having rods 4 to 5 feet long. Certainly they will not need shortening. Keep the house cool, so as not to excite growth early in the season, but let them start naturally. The great point is not to exhaust the sap from the rods before root-action quickly follows to maintain the supply. You had, therefore, better retard them now, even if it may be requisite to afford fire heat in the autumn to ripen the wood. When growth commences remove the weaker buds, and when the bunches are seen again thin out a portion of the growths by rubbing them off if needed. The laterals to remain should be at the least a foot apart, 15 inches being preferable, along each side of the rods, and they should not be allowed to carry more than half the crop this year that they finished last year before being lifted. Has not drip from the roof caused the Aloe to canker ? If this is not so the root-action is probably defective, and a top-dressing of rich soil might be beneficial. On this, however, we cannot advise, since you afford us no data to guide us in the matter. If you write again please state the size of the plant and the pot in which it is growing, with such other particulars as you think desirable, to enable us to comprehend its condition. Repotting Lomarias ( Reader ). — It is not easy to answer your question without knowing more intimately the actual condition of the plant. We have treated old Ferns in the manner you suggest, and improved them considerably. We have also benefited them greatly by digging out a portion of the soil from the pots, and top-dressing with a compost of turfy loam and manure, and when this has become permeated with roots giving clear soot water once or twice a week. A rim of zinc placed round the pot will enable you to repeat the top¬ dressing if you adopt this method of renovation. If, when you turn the plants out of the pots, the roots have a black dead appearance carry out your project, but if they are fresh we should prefer the alternative of top-dressing and liquid manure. Euphorbia splendens ( Idem). — It is true, as you say, that this good old plant will flower continually if kept in a warm house, but a rest occasionally is beneficial. This you may give at any time by placing it in a house where the temperature does not exceed 45°, and keeping it comparatively dry at the roots for a month or two. If you then remove a portion of the surface soil, add fresh rough rich compost, and place it in a warm house having a genial atmosphere, it will flower profusely. In August it is a good plan to place the plant outdoors near a south wall for a month or six weeks, but shading the pot from the sun. After that flowers will be plentiful throughout the winter if required, but the finest trusses are produced in early summer after a rest afforded at the present time. Gardenias in Border (C. B. B.). — It is utterly impossible for anyone who has not seen the plants to say “ how much water they ought to have.” So far as wre caa judge from your letter your gardener is treating them correctly. The temperature is right, also the syringing, and when we find a man right in two things we seldom find him far wrong in the third. Until the roots have taken possession of the soil frequent applications of water will not be needed, still it must never be allowed to get really dry. As soon as it approaches dry¬ ness — that is, when a little that is dug up with a stick from a few inches below has a tendency to crumble, sufficient tepid water must be given to penetrate the entire mass. As the season advances and plants increase in size and activity, they will require more than twice the quantity of water that will suffice now. Whenever it is given it must be applied copiously, as there is a danger in having the border too moist on the surface and too dry below ; at the same time it must not be saturated now, or the roots will not extend freely. Once they thoroughly permeate the soil it is not easy to give Gardenias too much water in a well-drained border. Protecting Fruit Trees (F. J.). — One thickness of the canvas, a sample of which you have sent, would exclude several degrees of frost and not materially impede the action of the sun and air. As a permanent covering we should only use one thickness ; but very sharp frosts occasionally occur for a night or two which destroy the blossoms under a thin covering, and against this con¬ tingency we should have sufficient of the material at hand to place over the other on any night when the frost threatened to be unusually severe. The thin covering should remain on the trees until the fruit is fairly set. You may apply lime at the rate of 1 ft. to 2 lbs. per square yard in your fruit garden ; if the soil is very rich and adhesive the latter quantity will not be too much. Whether plunging material should always be kept damp depends on what you want to plunge in it ; as a rule it should be for all plants in active growth, yet too much moisture injures the flowers of some plants at certain seasons. Improving Tennis Lawn (Various). — According to your statement the ground must be very wet, and instead of having two we should prefer four drains 18 inches deep, with two or three inch pipes connected to another drain to conduct the water away. Over the pipes place some rubble. After removing the old turf and spreading on the hard rough material you propose you must cover it 2 inches deep with fine soil, making all smooth and firm. If you can procure wood ashes or charred vegetable refuse for surfacing this will induce a quick growth of the grasses, and the charring would moreover destroy worms and the seeds of weeds that are often so troublesome in new lawns. If you send the size of the ground to those who advertise lawn seeds in our columns, and state you want to sow liberally, they will supply you with the proper quantity of a suit¬ able mixture. By sowiDg in suitable weather towards the end of March and early in April we have seen close lawns in two months, and tennis played on them throughout the season. In these cases the seed was sown thickly, and light rich soil carefully sifted over it, so as just to cover it and no more, then rolling lightly. The first two or three mowings should be with a very sharp scythe, just removing the tips of the grasses, afterwards a machine may be used, but not set so low as to shave oft the grass close to the ground. Everything depends on good management in producing a lawn quickly, both in preparing the soil and giving good after-attention to the herbage. Birds are often very troublesome after the seeds are sown, and unless you are watchful they may do much harm before you are aware of their depredations. Peas for Succession (Idem). — If you sow the varieties you name “ three weeks after each other” you will have a succession, but certainly a “ break ” in the supply. By sowing Day’s Sunrise, Telephone, and Ne Plus Ultra at the same time they will succeed each other in bearing as you require, and when the plants of the latter are fairly visible sow more of the same variety or Omega, and continue the process till the middle of June. You may then expect an un¬ interrupted supply of excellent Peas throughout the season. Trees and Shrubs for the Seaside (A. C. Wilkin). — We have never seen any of the trees you mention in a flourishing condition near the sea. The best of all Fir trees for such a situation is Pinus maritime, the Pinaster, which thrives admirably in an exposed place, where we have seen hundreds of it 80 feet high. Pinus austriaca has thriven so well on your coast that preference is given to it there. Ilex, Sycamore, Beech, Turkey Oak, Spanish Chestnut, Black Italian Poplar, and common Silver Fir (Picea pectinata) all answer well and grow to a large size if the land is tolerably fertile and well drained, but none of them are suitable for a swamp. If you have a swamp try Alder ; we have found it thrive where Willows have proved a comparative failure. Plant thickly, watch the growth closely, thin judiciously year by year as the trees become large enough to require it, clearing sufficiently around the permanent trees to admit sufficient air and light to induce a free, strong, healthy growth, and you will eventually gain thorough shelter and fine timber. Of shrubs Holly is the ouly one thriving by the sea that bears shade and drip well, but for open places away from the trees Japanese Privet, Tamaiix, Box, and Mahonia may be planted with the Holly, and they would make excellent cover for game. Euonymus also answers well by the sea, but unfortunately rabbits are very fond of it, and the Snowberry (Symphoricarpus racemosus) makes a good undergrowth in plantations in damp positions. Heating Vinery— Grapes Shanking ( J . M.) .—Unquestionably the best mode of heating the house would be by hot water, and we should not consider such a house complete without an apparatus for this purpose. Two rows of 4-inch pipes taken round the house, except across the doorways, would answer. As you would have to sink the boiler so that the top of it would be below the doorsill, a low or rather flat terminal saddle would probably suit you as well as any. A flow pipe from the top of this passing below the doorway, then rising to the height required and conducted with a very slight incline, say a rise of about 3 inches to the doorway at the opposite end, returning from thence back to the bottom of the boiler, would heat one side of the house, and a similar arrangement along the other side would complete the work. You would require a T piece in the flow to which to connect the pipes, and an air pipe at the highest point of each flow, which would be near the doorway at the end of the house opposite the boiler. Your present flue might possibly act as a smoke-shaft. You can ascertain by measurement the length of pipes required, and if you order them from a respectable firm they are sure to be “good.” Ordinary socket pipes will answer, and if you wish to have them so that they can be easily removed at any time, put them together with indiarubber rings. As you appear to have had little, if any, experience in work of this kind, you will find it advantageous to employ some competent person or firm to do what you require, as a mistake in setting the boiler or arranging the pipes would end in failure and consequent loss. If the roots of your Yines are confined to a border 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep, in all probability they do not receive sufficient support, and this alone would cause the fruit to shank. All the varieties you name will ripen in a house heated as we have suggested. Cucumbers in Greenhouse (FI. S. P.). — As you appear to have succeeded in producing satisfactory crops last year, you cannot do better than to pursue the same method of culture this year. As to the failure of the other plants, in some respects the fault was your own, in others it must be attributed to the unsuitability of the house. You ought to be able to grow Gloxinias, Maiden¬ hair Ferns, and to a certain stage Tuberous Begonias in a house with Cucumbers, as the temperature and moisture would be suitable for all ; but Pelargoniums and Liliums need much more light and air, and a cool frame would be far better after the middle of May for them than a close warm house, also for the Begonias after they were fairly started into growth. If you desire further information and will state your requirements as clearly as possible, we are quite willing to supply it ; but no one can grow satisfactorily all the plants you name in a house that appears to be chiefly devoted to Cucumbers. You will find lists of French and other continental seedsmen, &c., in the “ Horticultural Directory,” which you can obtain through a bookseller, price Is., or by post free from this office price Is. 3d. Roses for Garden and Pots (J. G., Nottingham).— Assuming that the soil is good the exclusion of the sun at mid-day will not seriously interfere with the growth of any Roses that succeed well in your district. During hot seasons we have had the finest Roses from plants growing on a north border, but they had the benefit of the sun for a few hours in the morning and again in the evening. This, we presume, will be so in your case, and you may therefore plant such varieties as you prefer. In repotting Roses the size of the pots can only be determined by the size of the plants and the condition of their roots. Unless the pots are quite crowded with roots we should not repot Roses now, but remove an inch or two of the surface soil, at the same time digging out any portion from near the sides of the pots that can be done without injuring the roots materially; then add a top-dressing of rich compost, such as two-thirds 146 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER [ February 15, 1883. of turfy loam with one-third of manure, and a fifteenth part of the entire bulk of bonemeal. With sufficient water, yet judiciously applied, and eventually liquid manure, large plants can be kept healthy in comparatively small pots. When you ask for the maximum size of pot we must again reply, That depends wholly on the size of the plant. We have seen many plants 3| feet in diametei and 2 feet high bearing from twenty to thirty fine blooms in 8-inch pots, and we have seen Hoses in pots 15 inches in diameter, but the specimens were about 8 feet high by 5 or 6 feet in diameter at the base just above the surface of the pot, these grand examples each bearing from two to three hundred blooms. Any Boses can be trained to a trellis, but it depends entirely on the size of it as to which would be the most suitable varieties. A suitable distance for training the growths would be 3 or 4 inches, but we do not admire the plan to which you allude. It would have been better if you had stated your object and con¬ veniences for growing Roses in pots, with the size and condition of the plants on which you desire information. Croton Culture {Ignorant). — These plants require a warm stove tempera¬ ture, a moist atmosphere, abundance of light, and generous soil to grow them quickly and of good colour. A night temperature of 75° is not too much, with a rise to 85° or 90° in the day with sun, a bottom heat of 85° being desirable but not indispensable. The plants should be repotted whenever the pots are fairly filled with roots, and these are protruding through the drainage, until they are in the size in which they are intended to be exhibited. Handsome specimens can be grown in 8-inch pots. In a small state a compost of a little more than half of rather light turfy loam, the remaining portion to consist of peat and leaf soil, with sand and crushed charcoal to render the whole porous ; when transferred to 6-inch pots the peat and leaf soil may be reduced and a little decayed manure added, and at the next shift a 5-inch potful of bonemeal mixed with a peck of the soil will be of great service. It is important that the pots be filled with roots as early in the summer as possible, or the foliage will not colour well. Light, heat, and an abundance of water are essential for this. Throughout the season the plants must be syringed freely, and occasionally the leaves should be sponged with soapy water, especially on the under sides, as a preventive of thrips, as it is impossible for you to grow Crotons if they are not kept clean. If huge specimens are required the growths must be topped, but very fine medium-sized plants with splendid foliage can be grown without top¬ ping, and such plants in brilliant colour would be preferred by a good judge to specimens of thrice the size with comparatively small and colourless foliage. When the pots are crowded with roots soot water is a safe and excellent stimu¬ lant. You ask for the best “var.” Whether you mean the best variety or varieties is an open question. Following your abbreviation strictly we should name one, but as you probably need more we name six that are equally good for home decoration and exhibition, at the same time not being so costly as some of the newer varieties: — Queen Victoria, Prince of Wales, Weismanni, angusti- folius, undulatus, and Disraeli. If, however, you wish to exhibit this number you should have one plant extra, in case all the others should not succeed, and you may add Evansianus. If you will state which Tradescantia you mean, or send us a leaf, we will answer your other question. There are numbers of species, some hardy and others tender, and you will therefore perceive you have not made the matter clear for insuring a satisfactory reply. Cattleya Percivilliana ( Disappointed ). — We have heard many others besides yourself express their disappointment with regard to this Orchid, which has by no means proved so handsome as was expected. However, it has never been eulogised in these pages, and probably you will hear more in its disparage¬ ment than otherwise. It appears to vary considerably, the lip differing in the richness of the colouring, though the flowers are generally small. It may im¬ prove to some extent, but it is doubtful if it will ever gain much favour with Orchid-growers. Names of Plants (IF. II.). — Begonia Weltoniensis. ( R.S. ). — 1, Asplenium viviparum ; 2, Dendrobium nobile ; 3, Coelogyne cristata ; 4, Odontoglossum Alexandras. (W. X.). — 1, Adiantum cuneatum ; 2, Doodia aspera ; 3, Blechnum brasiliensis. Moving Bees (IF. E., Waltham). — As there will be little activity amongst your bees for some time we think you will lose few, if any, of them if you remove the hives at once. If the weather should be very mild, and the bees show a disposition to leave the hives, you might close the apertures during mid¬ day for a short time, but probably this will not be necessary. COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— FEBRUARY 14th. TlIE Market remains very quiet. A fair supply of early forced vegetables continue to reach us, but good samples of late Grape3 are short at previous quotations. FRUIT. e. d. s. d. Apples . } sieve 2 0to7 0 „ . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Apricots . Cherries . Chestnuts . Currants, Black. . „ Red.... Figs . Filberts . Cobs . Gooseberries .... doz. 0 0 0 0 } sieve o 0 0 0 bushel 10 0 12 0 $ sieve 0 0 0 0 2 sieve 0 0 0 0 dozen 0 6 10 rb. o o oo loo tb. o o oo i sieve 0 0 0 0 8. d. s. d Grapes . ft. 2 0 to 5 0 Lemons . case 10 0 20 0 Melons . each 0 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 0 0 Oranges . 100 6 0 10 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 1 0 2 0 dessert . dozen 1 0 2 0 Pine Apples, English ft. 1 6 2 0 Raspberries . ft. 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .... lb. 0 o. 0 0 VEGETABLES. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d Artichokes . . dozen 2 0to4 0 Lettuces ... i OtOl 6 Asparagus, French bundle 25 0 30 0 Mushrooms i 0 i 6 Beans, Kidney .. . 100 1 0 0 0 Mustard & Cress .. punnet 0 2 0 3 Beet, Red . dozen 1 0 2 0 Onions . 2 3 2 6 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 i 6 Parsley . doz. bunches 3 0 4 0 Brussels Sprouts. J sieve 1 6 2 0 Parsnips .. .. 1 0 2 0 dozen 0 6 1 0 Peas . 0 0 0 o Capsicums . 100 1 6 2 0 Potatoes . . . . 6 0 7 0 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Kidney. . . . 6 0 8 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 Radishes.... doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Celery . bundle 1 6 2 0 Rhubarb .... 0 4 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Salsafy . 1 0 0 0 Cucumbers . . each 1 6 2 0 Scorzonera l 6 0 8 Endive . . dozen 1 u 2 0 Seakale .... 1 0 2 0 Fennel . . bunch 0 3 0 0 Shallots .... 3 0 o Giirlic . 0 6 0 0 Spinach .... 3 0 0 0 Herbs . . bunch 2 0 0 Tomatoes .. ft. 1 G 2 o Leeks . . bunch 0 8 « 4 Turnips .... 0 2 0 3 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. INDICATIONS OF FERTILITY OR BARRENNESS OF SOILS. This is, and always will be, a subject of the greatest import¬ ance in agriculture, and was deemed of great consequence by the Royal Agricultural Society of England, for in 1844 the Council offered their prize for the best essay upon this subject, and in the Journal of the Society issued in 1845 two essays appeared, both of which treated the subject with great practical intelligence and experience. Since that period chemistry in connection with agriculture has made great progress, having opened up the value of certain productive qualities of land as well as its barren¬ ness, for tbe researches of such gentlemen as Dr. Voelcker, Sir J. B. Lawes, and others have added much to the means of obtaining by analysis the quality of soils. To the young men and those who are students in agriculture it is a most important fact, that irrespective of analysis of soils their productive quality has been characterised to a great extent by the experience given by practical farmers, &c., who judge by the colour, consistency, posi¬ tion, and aspect, as well as the various weeds and plants indigenous to the land, and other peculiarities which have been noted by observant men. Notwithstanding all this practical knowledge the most observant readily admit that they have learned much from the chemical professors in agriculture, and as this is the fact, is it not sufficient to induce the young men to consider the opportunities which they now possess by a combination of practice and theory ? It appears surprising that the natural indications of barrenness and fertility should have been so much neglected by our fore¬ fathers. We fear that at an early date knowledge of this subject was deemed unworthy of notice by farmers, and that it was quite sufficient that the most practical men as land agents and valuers, who have had so many opportunities of noticing the indications of the value of land, was sufficient to guide them. During the past thirty or forty years, and since education has extended amongst all classes of the community, the aspirants for agricultural fame amongst the young farmers and landowners have perceived the value of practice with science in any attempt at successful agriculture. This has induced them generally to acquire a knowledge of the nature and value of land and its capabilities, the ground and basis of which they have made the understanding of the capabilities of the soil by its appearance, called indications of fertility or barrenness. Nor could they have better preceptors than the experienced land valuers and agents, combined with the scientific acquirements of such men as Sir J. B. Lawes, Dr. Voelcker, and others too numerous to mention, but who have for a long period laboured zealously to enlarge the minds of those who were willing to learn by publishing the result of their experiments. The knowledge extended to agriculturists by botanists has also gone a long way to indicate those plants which, being indigenous to certain soils, show them how to distinguish the character of the land by its herbage, which may be seen at any time during the spring and summer months, and thereby enable them to decide whether the soil is productive or otherwise for certain farm produce. At the present era of agriculture, through the February 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 147 experience of practical men cleverly laid before them, young men of perseverance and industry can now obtain in a few years that which formerly occupied the attention of a long life in its acquirement. As, however, we have stated facts which are not disputed, we shall turn our attention to those illustrations which are available at present, through the writings of those best informed upon the subject, and in doing so we shall endeavour to give some observations of our own which may clear up some doubtful points. In speaking of indications of barrenness we will take first the colour of the herbage of pasture land, for this upon infertile land nearly always exhibits a brown or reddish brown colour, as it seldom appears green either in the spring, summer, or winter. Nearly all grass land that produces rough, coarse, and unpalatable grass which the stock refuse, and, unless compelled by actual hunger, will not eat, and has the appearance of half-made hay, may usually be said to be barren. Still we have some exceptions, which we will name in order that persons lacking experience may not be deceived. We refer particularly to some fine pastures in the vale of Aylesbury and certain parts of Leicestershire and Somersetshire, where good grazing pastures have been quite neg¬ lected ; the bunches or tufts of grass of a coarser sort have been allowed to prevail, and are called tussocks. Now, these at all times give a rough and brown appearance to soils, which may easily be mistaken for indications of barrenness, whereas it chiefly represents bad management and neglect. This can be easily altered by careful arrangements — cutting up root and branch with turf -cutters all objectionable tufts, and burning them for the benefit of the land whereon they grew. Again, in the case of pastures which grow rushes and sedge grass, these undoubtedly in their origin represent a wet soil if not always barren, yet after drain¬ ing we have found that rushes with running roots just under the surface will remain for many years after the land has been pro¬ perly drained upon strong clay soils ; but those which are termed hunch rushes and grow in tussocks will also exist after draining the land, but may easily be eradicated by the same means as the tussock grasses. (To be continued.) WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — The time for sowing winter varieties of Wheat i3 now past ; we must therefore consider the comparative advantages of growing spring varieties, or what is called by this name, such as Talavera, and upon those farms on which it has been found to answer it may be tried again. We, however, ignore it entirely, except in some of the western counties where the rainfall is continued longer into the spring, for as a rule in the eastern and south-eastern districts it is much inclined to blight, in which case its fine quality as a mill¬ ing sample is lost, and the straw likewise has often proved very inferior, in any sort of Wheat which has been injured by blight. There is a variety called April Wheat, which if sown in March, and the land moist enough to vegetate the corn at once, it will be for¬ ward enough to give a good yield in any average season, although it is a strong grain and yielding but little flour, usually if sold to the miller making about 6s. per quarter less than the best brown Wheats. It is a bearded sort growing very great crops of straw of a strong wiry nature, and is in consequence more valuable than ordi¬ nary growths for various purposes, such as thatching ricks, barns, and other buildings. It is much in favour with stable keepers in towns, and at the prices which straw has been selling at makes it worth more for growing than ordinary Oats. It is, however, the least valuable as a feeding straw. In its growth it is by no means subject to blight, and with a full crop of straw yields a large quantity of grain in favourable seasons. We have been particular in making these statements in order to give the home farmer the opportunity of considering under various conditions which pay best, late Wheat or early-sown good varieties of Oats or Barley. In deciding upon which is best as a profitable crop, Oats, or Barley, or drege, the soil, climate, and condition of the land must be con¬ sidered ; as a rule, however, on strong cold soils quarters of Oats may be grown instead of sacks of Wheat. On light lands, after roots fed off, we do not approve of Barley, but like the white Victoria Oat, as they yield enormous crops of straw of high feeding value, and they come to harvest ten or twelve days before winter-sown Wheat, which has been a matter of no little consequence in the English and Scotch climate in years gone by, especially as the quality and weight of the grain is usually first-rate. On some cold late soils the new variety of White Tartarian Oat is much approved for admixture with Barley, the straw, too, being very valuable, and is seldom attended with loss by shedding in the field, and is in consequence very valuable for growth on the seacoast and districts where heavy autumn gales pre¬ vail. As they ripen late it is preferred to Barley, and can be harvested with little or no damage in almost any season. Hand Labour. — As the season proceeds this will be more in request. Forking out couch, docks, &c., may still be done before the sheep feed the root crops, and also upon the land which was autumn-ploughed before planting Potatoes, Mangolds, Carrots, &c., as we cannot afford the delay consequent upon horse labour to clean land before the early vegetable and root crops are seeded for. BACON AND HAMS. Home- cured bacon and ham are justly held in high repute. The former is relished as a breakfast rasher, while the slice of cold ham is a cheap and wholesome article of diet, of which every home farm should afford an abundant and continuous supply. How to obtain it is a matter of such importance, often but little understood, that a few of the chief details of the process may prove useful to many of your readers. Famous as York hams undoubtedly are, yet I do not consider it at all an indispensable necessity to have either the large or small Yorkshire pigs to obtain good hams, or the Berkshire or Essex pigs for bacon. If a Berkshire sow can be had easily, by all means have one, cross it with the best breed of the locality, and pigs of a compact chubby frame will be the result. But excellent sows of local breeds, of medium length, level-backed, and with full rounded quarters, may be met with everywhere by the exercise of a little care in selection, and the pigs from such sows always fatten quickly, and are ripe for the butcher in from thirty to thirty-five weeks from the farrowing, when they should weigh that number of stones of 8 lbs., a stone a week, or rather more than 1 lb. a day, being the weight of a well-bred hog of that age if it has been fed judiciously — that is to say, with ordinary food sufficient to maintain a kindly healthy-growing condition for about twenty-two or twenty-four weeks, and with barley, pea, or oatmeal and milk during the remaining six or eight weeks. Feeding is altogether a relative matter — a question of ways and means rather than a process of weight and measure. “ Milk-fed hogs are not to be excelled ” is a popular creed in which many good people have unshaken faith, yet last year three porkers fed entirely with boiled potatoes and wash beat three others of the same age fed with milk and pollard. Care, watchfulness, and painstaking are the principal things ; a well-fed hog kept in a very cold and dirty stye will not thrive so well as if in a clean warm cosy one. If possible avoid buying any of the food ; a well-managed home farm should always have enough arable land to afford an ample supply of corn for all feeding requirements, with the exception of maize — quite an indispensable article of diet for poultry, and good for pigs occasionally. If very large hams are required the pigs must be kept propor¬ tionately longer, but for all ordinary purposes pigs of the age mentioned afford hams of full 20 lbs. weight when cured, and I find hams of this weight preferable to any other. Two pigs are killed at the same time at intervals of a month, that being the most convenient arrangement for the means of curing the pork here. They are left hanging in the slaughter-house twenty- four hours to cool thoroughly, then they are cut in halves, the heads and hams cut off, and the sides and chaps taken to the pickling tray for salting, 1£ oz. of saltpetre and the same quantity of common soda being mixed with the salt for every 14 lbs. of bacon. Sides of moderate substance are well rubbed and turned in the tray daily for three weeks, or a week longer if very thick, and are then put in separate bags of cotton or thin sacking material for smoking. For the hams we have a special formula, which is so excellent that I give it in full. For uncured hams of 30 lbs. weight 1 lb. common salt, 1J oz. saltpetre, lj oz. bay salt, 14 oz. shallots pounded, A oz. coriander seed, \ oz. juniper berries bruised, \ lb. beef suet, 2 lbs. treacle. A pickle is made of this, and the hams put in it in deep earthen pans, and turned daily for a month, especial care being taken to keep them quite covered with the pickle the whole of the time. They are then put in bags and suspended in the wide farm¬ house chimneys, where they remain for three months, and are then ready for use. No coal is allowed to be used, oak logs being the staple article of fuel, and oak sawdust being put upon the fires at night. No fir tree sawdust is ever used, as it imparts an unpleasant flavour to the bacon. Modern farm-houses have no chimneys suitable for this purpose, but a separate drying or rather smoking- house need not be expensive, four walls with a chimney wide and high enough for the requisite quantity of bacon being all that is required, a fire of oak sawdust being kept up upon the floor in the centre of the apartment. More hams than sides of bacon are always wanted. Advantage is taken of this to obtain a supply of lard, all the fat pork being cut into small pieces, boiled and pressed, the liquid fat running off into earthen crocks, and when it is cool the lids are put on, and it is used as required, keeping perfectly sweet and wholesome for a year. This is really the most profitable way of turning the surplus fat to account, for the dealers will not give more than 4s. a stone of 8 lbs. for it offered to them as pork, and there is always a large consumption of lard in such households as the home farm has to supply. — Edward Luckhurst. 148 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 15, 1883. u POULTRY NOTES. We have often remarked on the extension of the poultry fancy on the continent. Certain departments of France have long been famous for table poultry, but purity of breeds has been little thought of in that country. The starting of a new weekly paper devoted to the subject of poultry and Pigeons is evidence that at last French breeders are alive to the need of intelligence and care in the cultivation of their stock. The new paper is entitled Le Poussin, aud is intended to be a somewhat cosmopolitan organ of fanciers. A German article has appeared in one of the earliest numbers, and this is to be followed by articles in English as well as French from the pen of an English fancier. The prolonged wet is telling very prejudicially on poultry, especially where the soil is heavy. For one thing, wherever their dusting places are not thoroughly well covered above and raised below they are sure to be flooded, and so become worse than useless. The unfortunate birds, whose nature it is to bask on dry sunny banks, are too often doomed to wade in mud. All that can be done to remedy these discomforts should be carefully attended to. Where the dusting place is gone or wet, dry soil or ashes should be put on the floors of the roosting house, and the birds should all be examined to see if they are plagued with vermin ; if so, flour of sulphur or insect-destroying powder should be dusted into their feathers. We hear of another pest among poultry, arising, we fancy, from the prolonged rains — viz;., a diptheric affection in the mouth and throat. In its earlier stages cankerous specks are found about the mouth, not unlike the beginnings of canker in young Pigeons. These should at ouee he touched with caustic, and the complaint may be arrested. In its later stages the diptheric growth fills up the windpipe and the bird perishes from weakness and inanition. In even slight attacks plump birds will in two days lose all their flesh and condition. We are as a rule strongly averse to stimu¬ lating foods ; but this is just a case in which we think a little spiced meal is useful. It will tempt a fowl to eat when otherwise it might refuse to do so. The only way to get poultry safely through such maladies is to keep them well fed and very warm. The disease is a severe drain to the system, which can only be borne if extra nutriment is supplied. Some time ago the formation of a society for the breeding and exhibition of German Toy Pigeons was announced. It is more than a year since Mr. Morton of Newent, Gloucestershire, invited admirers of these birds to send in their names to him. Rules for the society were forwarded to us, and after the lapse of a year we saw some voting papers for the formal election of divers officers of the said Club. Now it appears to have died its natural though early death, or at least if it exists it conducts its proceedings with much secrecy. We understand that the entries for the Hereford Poultry and Pigeon Show to be held to-day (February 15th) closed with nearly eight hundred pens. Considering the prizes offered this is a large number, and confirms the opinion we lately expressed, that such shows just now find much favour in the west of England. We have before us the schedule of a Poultry Show to be held at Melton Mowbray on March 8th. There are twenty-one classes for poultry with four prizes in each, and six for Pigeons. The time of year is hardly favourable for the exhibition of birds which ought to be breeding at home. Managers of shows should for their own sake, as well as that of exhibitor have every alley well watched, especially in the evenings. We hear that immense trouble has been caused to exhibitors at the late Yeovil Show, as well as to the managers of it, by the changing of several pens of Pigeons, which must have been done by either dishonest or mischievous people. We wrote lately about the points of form of Japanese Bantams, though we did not then go into the question of their colour. At the Gloucester Show we remarked a cock of the breed exhibited by Messrs Eteen of a very unusual colour — viz., golden, with black spangles on the breast. Whether he was a pure Japanese or crossed, with some other similar race we could not feel sure. We hear that the whole of Mrs. Lane’s stock of Houdans, which she has bred and shown with so much success, have passed into the hands of Mr. Wingfield-Stratford of Addington Park, Kent. The Columbarian Society in its series of “ standards ” for fancy Pigeons is about to issue one for Turbits. The Chairman of the Committee deputed to draw it up is Mr. F. Esquilaut, and the Secretary the Rev. W. F. Lumley. — C. THE POULTRY CLUB. A meeting of the Committee of the Poultry Club was held on Friday, February 9th, at the Charing Cross Hotel, at 2 p.m. There were present Mr. S. Lucas (in the chair), the Earl of Winterton, Yiscount Grimston ; and Messrs. T. W. Anns, R. A. Boissier, A. Comyns, and G. H. Wood. Annual Accounts. — The accounts for 1882 were examined and confirmed. They will shortly be published as provided by the rules. Prizes for Table Poultry. — A proposal that prizes should be offered for table poultry at some leading show this year was made. It was resolved to offer prizes on the following conditions, subject to any alterations which may be made hereafter. 1, The prizes to be competed for in the month of November or December next at some leading show to be hereafter named. 2, The prizes to be of the fol¬ lowing amounts — viz., 1st, £5 ; 2nd, £3 ; 3rd, £2. 3, The birds to be cockerel and pullet or capon and poulard of some pure breed, or first cross between two pure breeds. In the latter case the breed of both parents to be stated. 4, Price to be limited to £1, Poultry Club to have first option of purchase. 5, The whole or a proportion of birds selected alive as most likely for prizes and commendations to be killed and trussed by a qualified poulterer after being first exhibited alive. 6, The prizes to be finally awarded to the dead poultry. Shows under Club Rules. — Some correspondence with the Secretary of the Gosforth Show was read, and a subscription in aid of its funds granted. Next Meeting. — The date of the next meeting was fixed for March 9th at the Charing Cross Hotel, at 2 p.m. — Alex. Comyns, Hon. Sec., 47, Chancery Lane, Feb. 13th, 1883. OUR LETTER BOX. Rye Flour {Reader). — We have forwarded the address you have obligingly sent to our correspondent who sought information on this matter. Roup (/. P.). — Your birds have roup. Treat as follows : — Begin with a do se of castor oil, afterwards wash the face and nostrils frequently with Labarraque’s solution of chlorinated soda diluted with twice its quantity of water. The house where the birds have been should be thoroughly disinfected. Procure from Mr. Cook, 2, Park Road, West Chislehurst, a packet of his roup powder with directions for its use. We have found this act well. If there are any other symptoms than those you have described write again, and we will advise you a3 to further treatment. We cannot understand the blindness of the recovered birds. Do you mean that one eye remains closed, or that the sight of one eye is destroyed ? Turkey Cock (/. P.). — As the young bird is such a fine one we should certainly advise you to keep him unless the stock have been much interbred already. We do not gather from your letter that this is the case. Concrete Floor {Old Subscriber). — You cannot do better under the cir¬ cumstances than concrete or asphalte the floor of your fowl house, but you must keep the floor covered at least half an inch deep with sand, ashes, or dry earth. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40" N. ; Long. 0° 8' 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. DATE. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. | Rain. 1 1883. February. Barome¬ ter at 32« and Sea . Level Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. | Temp.oi Soil at 1 foot. Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In snn. On grass. Inches. deg. deg. deg. deg deg. deg deg. In. Sun. 4 30.052 38 8 36.5 S.W. 39.3 49.4 33.2 79.2 31.7 — Mon. 5 30.258 4L.6 40.7 S. 39.5 49.6 38.3 74.8 31.9 — Tues. 6 30.121 34.5 34.2 E. 39 4 44.6 32.2 64.7 25.6 0.184 Wed. 7 29.865 38.7 38.0 s.s.w. 38.7 41.9 33.5 43.3 28.1 0.179 Thnrs. 8 29.620 43.2 42.8 S.E. 39.2 53.3 37.9 66.3 35.3 0.600 Friday 9 29.795 39.5 39.5 w. 41.0 52.4 37.2 74.9 38.2 0.208 Satur. 10 29.513 48.1 46.4 S.W. 41.3 49.4 38.8 50.2 35.6 0.553 29.893 40.0 39.7 39.8 48.7 36.3 63.3 32.3 1.784 REMARKS. 4th. — Fine, bright, and calm throughout. 5th. — Dull at first ; fine bright day. 6th. — Fine throughout. 7th. — Rain early ; cold damp day. 8th. — Dull, with rain ; heavy at night. 9th. — Rain at first ; fine bright day. 10th.— Stormy and wet; fine and starlight 7 P.M. till midnight, afterwards heavy rain. A mild week, the early part fine, the latter windy and very wet, the rainfall of the last three days being alone more than usually falls in the whole month. — G. J. Symons. February 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 149 22nd Tn Royal Society at 4 .30 P.M. 23rd F Quekett Club at 8 P.M. 24th S Royal Botanic Society at 3.45 P.M. 25th SUN 3rd Sunday in Lent. 26th M 27th TU 28th W Society of Arts at 8 P.M. DESTROYING INSECTS ON FRUIT TREES. 'OUBTLESS one of the greatest among the gardener’s many great troubles is the plague of insects which come every season as regularly as the seasons them¬ selves. I should just like my readers to recall to mind how they have battled in former springs and summers with the hosts of insects on their outdoor fruit &)■' trees — how the shoots of the Cherries were covered with black aphides, the Peaches and Plums with green fly in variety, and the Pears with quite a collection of entomological curiosities ! Just picture them at the present time, and consider whether you wTould like to have them that way again when every minute is doubly engaged, and you are obliged for self-protection to shut your eyes to some of the evils around you. No insects are visible now, and some of our old- fashioned friends will tell us that they will not come till the east wind brings them. We have it on the highest authority that the east wind was once guilty of such things ; but that was a long time ago, and although the wind in the east still is said to be “ good for neither man nor beast,” the insects are sure to come be the wind where it will, unless wTe take the trouble to prevent them. Perhaps the most detestable of insects on our out¬ door fruit trees is the black aphis which infests our Cherries. It seems to come so suddenly, and squeeze, syringe, and dip as you will, nothing will prevent dis¬ figurement of the trees nor partial loss of the crop. As I am more interested in the movements of my enemies than those of my friends, I have watched this pest rather closely, and can always find it in the form of the tiniest black spots on a sunny day just when the bloom buds are about one-third expanded. It is hardly larger than the point of a pin, and to the naked eye cannot be seen to be alive ; but leave it a few days, and it will not only be seen to be alive itself but to have a very flourishing family. It is quite possible to destroy it when the small black specks are first seen, and at any time before the bloom buds are more than half expanded ; but the surest and most economical plan is to destroy it before it can be seen : and with wall trees, at least, this is a very easy matter, as I have proved for two successive seasons. Petroleum is cheap enough. It is certain death to all insects when used in a thorough-going manner, and before the buds are much expanded it is perfectly harmless to the trees in comparatively strong doses. My fruit walls are very old and full of holes, so that there is plenty of harbour for insects ; but by thoroughly syringing them all round twice in early spring, with an interval of a week or ten days, and repeating the dose in the autumn after the leaves are hardened, insects are comparatively no trouble. The petroleum mixture for syringing the walls and trees before the buds burst, and also after the leaves are hardened in autumn, is used at the rate of 2 ozs., or about an ordinary-sized wineglassful, to the gallon of water. The method of using it has been often described in this Journal by various writers, but as new readers are being constantly enlisted, and the inquiries on this subject are still very numerous, it may be worth while to repeat it here in the plainest language at my command. The oil is not soluble in water, and will float on the top, consequently when applying the contents of the vessel to the trees we may draw one syringeful entirely of water and the next entirely of oil, the effects of which would be very disastrous. But al¬ though the oil is not soluble in water we may, by keeping it constantly agitated, divide it into very small particles, and distribute it equally through the water. Applied in this condition at the proper strength the mixture is harmless to the trees and destructive to the insects. Where a large space of wall has to be ope¬ rated on it is well to have two men with two syringes, one to keep drawing from the vessel and returning the contents of his syringe with as much force as possible, the other to keep on applying a very gentle spray, light as dew itself, to every portion of the trees and wall. The lighter the application the greater will be the quantity of liquid held by the trees, in the same way as they hold much more moisture from dew than they do from heavy rain. When only a small space has to be done with one pair of hands, one syringeful must go into the pot and one on to the tree alternately. The mixture is used indiscriminately on all kinds of fruit trees, and no syringing with clear water is practised at any time of the year. — Wm. Taylor. Notwithstanding all the remedies that are provided insects appear to cause as much trouble as ever both to fruit trees and flowers during the summer months, and insecticides are brought into disrepute if they do not clear off all the pests at once and leave the trees and plants clean and healthy. The truth is that nearly all insecticides will accomplish their purpose. It is certain that tobacco water, quassia water, Gishurst compound, nicotine soap, and petroleum will, when properly mixed and applied, destroy insects ; but it is not fair to any insecticide to allow the pests to increase and cover the shoots and foliage in crowds before the remedy is applied, as then in many cases the insects protect each other. The true course to pursue is to endeavour by every possible means to prevent the attacks of insects, and this may be in a great measure done by syringing fruit trees just before the blossoms expand and the wood buds are starting into growth. If no insects are visible then, so much the better ; still they are certainly not far off, and preventive measures should be adopted. Petroleum has become a favourite remedy with many cultivators, but there is a difficulty in mixing it with water. My employer, who does not occupy an obscure position in the scientific world, has tested carefully every method that has been advanced of incorporating No. 139,— VOL; VI., Third Series, No. 1795.— Vol. LXIX., old Series, # 150 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 22, 1883. the oil and water, and has found the following plan to answer admirably. Four ounces of soft soap and a lump of washing soda the size of a walnut are dissolved in a gallon of boiling water ; then 4 ozs. of petroleum • is well stirred in, three more gallons of rain water | added, stirred again, and the four gallons stored in a stone jug. As many jugs are filled as will contain the season’s supply. It is used just as poured from the jugs, neither shaking nor alternate syringings into the pot and on the trees being adopted, because not needed. For applying the insecticide to plants and Roses a spray- diffuser is used, which is better than a syringe, and less of the solution is wasted. For convenience of filling the reservoir of the diffuser a quantity of the mixture is kept in clean champagne bottles and stood on the shelf of the garden house, and, as can be plainly seen through the glass, there is no curdling ; but the liquid is perfectly uniform throughout, and the oil does not rise to the surface. It has a thin, pale, milky appearance, destroys insects, and neither injures nor stains the foliage to which it is applied. This method was published in the Journal of Horticulture a few years ago, and is submitted as the best mode of preparing petroleum for the purpose in question. — A Gardener. ODONTOGLOSSUM ALEXANDRA!. ( Continued from, page 44.) ■ Potting is best done just after the plants have commenced ■ growth early in the spring. We generally commence potting i towards the end of February, but leave those which are not ready for a week or ten days longer. I do not advocate large pots for Odontoglossuras, and unless the plants have rooted abundantly they are again placed in the same size pots after the old material is carefully removed from their roots. When ' larger pots have to be used I give the smallest shift possible. The pots should be thoroughly clean, and be one-third filled with clean potsherds, the larger at the bottom and the smaller over them, and then covered with a layer of sphagnum moss. The plants should be well raised above the rim of the pots, and the compost pressed as firmly as possible and close to the base of the pseudo-bulbs, so that the roots when emitted from the new growths will enter it at once. I find that the roots grow more freely amongst the fibre from which the small particles have been shaken than when the peat is used in lumps, however good it may be, in which state it is more liable to become sour from the enormous quan¬ tities of water these plants require. When the fibre only is used it will last a greater length of time, and there is no occa¬ sion to repot the plants annually unless they require larger pots. The sphagnum must be sorted, and all grass and rubbish removed, the finest green portions being selected, placed in pans, and kept well watered. These are used for top-dressing whole, as I think they commence growing more quickly and better than when cut very small. Charcoal is broken moderately fine, and about a seventh mixed with the peat fibre and sphagnum, which are used in nearly equal pro¬ portions, allowing the latter to predominate. Until two years ago I used a much greater per-centage of peat and less sphag¬ num, but the plants did not succeed so well as they have done since more moss was employed. The supply of water is important — not that they require the care necessary for hardwooded Heaths, but they must never in any stage suffer from an insufficiency. Many fail to grow these plants satisfactorily through keeping them too dry and in too dry an atmosphere. During the summer while they are in active growth, if in moderately small pots and in the open compost recommended, the plants will need a good soaking of water every morning. The bed upon which they stand and every portion of the house should be well moistened several times during the day, and in the afternoon the plants should be lightly syringed. There need be no fear of the young growths damping if the house is freely ventilated night and day. In winter so much water will not be needed. The object during summer from the time the plants are potted should be to encourage the moss to grow, which will require clipping once or twice if the plants are properly treated. Ventilate freely on all favourable occasions night and day, as upon this depends the sturdy compact growth of the plants and the strength of the flower spikes. During the whole of the summer from the end of the month of May until September no fire heat will be needed during the day ; indeed, it is often difficult to keep the temperature sufficiently low. If drying winds prevail outside I prefer that the temperature rise con¬ siderably, rather than allow the plants to be dried quickly by admitting air. There are several opinions regarding the tem¬ perature necessary for these plants during the winter months. Some merely exclude frost, while others consider 40° to 45° ample. They will succeed in these temperatures, but it is questionable if they make such rapid progress as they do when kept warmer. I always endeavour to keep the house as near 5(r as possible. In frosty weather the temperature is allowed to fall a little, and on mild nights it often rises to 55°. One thing is strikingly evident — by keeping them moderately warm in winter, with ventilation day and night when the weather will permit, the plants start earlier into growth in spring, and have in consequence a longer season to make their growth and solidify their pseudo-bulbs, which is the secret of obtaining large spikes and fine flowers. The plants will be benefited by being arranged moderately near the glass, and a low house is much the best for them where they can stand upon some moisture -holding material, such as fine gravel. Shading is necessary, but moveable blinds should be em¬ ployed, so that they can be drawn up during the night and on dull sunless days. The material used should be light, so as to break the strong rays of the sun but not darken the house. Although these plants enjoy shade in bright weather, the in¬ experienced often err in shading too much, and the foliage becomes long, with scarcely sufficient strength to support itself, instead of being dwarf, stout, and sturdy. The insects that attack Odontoglossum Alexandra are various, and the slugs that are imported with the moss are perhaps the worst enemy they have. These must be sought at night after the plants have been repotted or any fresh moss used. We are generally troubled with these for a time in spring, but soon destroy them by diligent search. Woodlice are very destructive amongst the newly formed roots and young growths. Constant applications of water they do not like, and will soon remove to some drier place. A small yellow thrips is also troublesome, and can be kept down by watering the plants over the foliage and sponging them with a weak solution of nicotine soap. This thrips generally attacks the young growths in the centre or well down in the leaves, whence it is impossible to remove them with the sponge A little of ihe mixture applied to these parts with a small camel’s- hair brush will soon destroy them. Tobacco powder is also invaluable for this purpose. A small green fly will also establish itself upon the plants, especially during the winter when the flower spikes are appearing, but it can be removed by sponging. Fumigation with tobacco should not be at¬ tempted, as the plants will soon be injured by its application. — W. Bardney. GARDEN STRUCTURES. In reply to Mr. B. W. Warhurst’s remarks upon this subject (page 88), I will first state the reason why, in my opinion, the range of houses referred to in my article (page 21) proved a failure so far as plant-growing was concerned. It may be premised that the range was erected primarily for supplying cut flowers during the winter season and for growing decorative plants for rooms. Some of the houses were narrow spans, some of them lean-to structures. Their sides to the level of the plant stages were of brick ; above that to the eaves, which were 6 feet from the ground level, were fixed glass sashes, the ventilation being from the ridge of the roof alone. Fancy a gardener having to flower Pelargoniums through the winter in such structures, or to produce Lily of the Valley therefrom in January or earlier. Had these structures been erected to — - — — - 1 February 22, 1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 151 further the production of thrips and red spider no doubt the object would have been accomplished. With regard to the kind of structure I would recommend for the cultivation of commonly-grown plants, I can only repeat that “ the most useful plant structures will be found to be low flat buildings 12 or 13 feet in width, with a central path and two side beds on benches." Anyone who has had experience with structures of a low pitch of roof for plant¬ growing as against those that are more or less steep in the pitch, will agree that the low-angled form is the best in all ways. Here are details of a structure in course of erection here now, and intended for the production of Tea Roses during the winter months. At the same time the number of plants which would fail to succeed in such a house are very few indeed, while Melons, Cucumbers, and Tomatoes would do equally well. It is partially sunk beneath the ground level, and in some other ways has been slightly modified to suit its environments. Its outside width is 12 feet 9 inches ; the side walls are of 9-inch brickwork up to 28 inches below the eaves ; at that height a 4^-inch wall is carried up 15 inches, the remaining 13 inches being made up of ventilators and necessary fittings, the ventilators themselves being made of boards. The roof is supported on 2-inch tee iron rafters placed 7 feet apart ; those are batted into stones built into the side walls. At 2 feet from the ridge on each side of the roof the rafters are tied together with pieces of 2-inch tee iron, to which they are secured with bolt and nut. The outer ends of the end cross- leces are batted into the end gables, which are of 9-inch rickwork. In addition to tying the rafters together, these crosspieces also act as supports to the roof in an immediate manner, each “ astragal " being screwed to them at the point of intersection. Rigidity is secured by supporting each rafter on each side with a bar of 1-inch tubular iron secured at one end to a stone at the side of the pathway wall, at the other being bolted to the rafter it supports. The roof is formed of a continuous sash on each side, the top side of the two sashes meet and form the ridge. These are 4 inches wide by 2 inches thick. The bottom plate of each sash is 4£ inches by H inch. The astragals are each 2 inches deep by 1^ inch wide, every sixth one being 2 inches square. This lies on the iron rafter, to which it is secured with screw nails. The glass is in squares of 19 by 13 inches, bedded in putty, and each held down by two triangular pieces of zinc. A clear space of three-sixteenths of an inch is left between the lowermost pane and the sill on which it rests : this allows much condensed water to escape outwards. No ventilation is supplied from the ridge. The inside of the structure is furnished with a central pathway 27 inches wide, the floor being about 7 feet from the ridge. Its sides are formed of 4^-inch walls 3 feet high, these with the side walls forming a bed 4 feet wide for staging purposes. Heating is effected by three rows of 4-inch piping round the sides of the house, the uppermost pipe being about level with the bottom of the ventilators. A tank to hold 250 gallons of water s constructed at one corner by making one of its ends out of a portion of the gable, one of its side out of a portion of the outside wall, the other side being a portion of one of the pathway walls, the second end being built across the bed for that purpose. The bottom is lined with bricks, and the entire inside of the tank covered with cement an inch in thick¬ ness. The doorway is at one end of the building. Coal ashes level with the lowermost pipe form the bed on which plants are to be staged. The angle of the roof is 16°. All the material employed, with the exception of the woodwork, is practically indestructible. Modifications in the internal arrangements of this pit would make it suitable for growing greenhouse plants, for cool Orchids, for decorative Ferns, and other purposes. We are constantly seeing comparatively expensive structures attached to villa residences, which, instead of being a saving to their owners, are on the contrary a continual expense to keep fur¬ nished with fresh plants. The writer of the articles on “ A Suburban Garden " seems to have learnt the difference between a house built for “ show " and one built to produce flowers. The remarks on this subject in these articles are worthy the attention of gardeners as well as amateurs. As to fruit houses, what Mr. Warhurst states regarding the pitch of Peach houses as determined by the majority of gardeners, is surely incorrect. “ A steep pitch of 50° to GO0 " might be recommended in the case of “ wall-cases," but for a Peach house proper either 12 or 18 feet in width I can hardly imagine to be the fact. A pitch of 35° I would consider a fair one, 40° at the outside. As to the height of fronts, we have a new Peach house here with a G-foot front, specially built so ; it allows for the back wall being covered with trees, and a trellis in front as well, while there is space in the centre for plant-growing. For ordinary purposes, however, a front of i 4 feet would be more suitable. As to the height of back walls, j they would be a serious item were roofs of 60° angle a 1 necessity. In practice, however, such an angle is not required, ; indeed would be otherwise than beneficial were houses thus constructed. I may, however, point out a system, the best example of which may be seen at Drumlanrig, whereby walls may be heightened cheaply. This object is gained by placing the top ventilators, not on the top of the house, but between the ridge and the wall when that happens to be too low for the size of house to be constructed. Flat-roofed houses have this disadvantage compared with those of a steep pitch — the former in damp weather do not throw water off the roof so thoroughly as do the latter, which is against the lasting qualities of the erection. They have, however, the compensating advantages of being stronger, requiring less material in their construction, and are con¬ sequently cheaper, and suit plants better than those of a steep pitch. The examples given by Mr. Warhurst would lead us to believe that there is a prevailing ignorance amongst gardeners concerning a part of their daily work which reflects on us as a class in a very uncomplimentary manner. This is a question particularly worthy the attention of young men, who, as a rule, have advantages during the period before they obtain head places of obtaining a fair knowledge of the best kinds of structures for different kinds of plants. — R. P. B. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM ELECTION. As a lover of the Chrysanthemum accept my best thanks for the very spirited manner in which you have carried through the election of the incurved varieties. Such things are not under¬ taken without great cost and labour, but I think it worth all the trouble, for it settles a long-disputed point. I must confess I was surprised in looking through the returns at the result of the election. Queen of England I should have thought good enough to have headed the poll, and two others that are in the second twelve good enough for the first, but the majority of electors think differently, and I consider the selection excellent. I hope we shall next have an election of the Japanese varieties, for I think the returns of these will be more interesting than the incurved. Being, com- j paratively speaking, new compared with the incurved, it is often very perplexing to those who intend growing a few to obtain a reliable list of the best, as writers seldom recommend the same varieties. I shall be very happy to assist. — C. Waring, Prince's Park, Liverpool. _ I WAS extremely pleased to see the very satisfactory result of the Chrysanthemum election. It cannot fail to be of much service [ to all interested, and still more to those who are seeking infor¬ mation relative to this deservedly popular flower. I notice, i however, that Beverley and White Beverley are registered as two varieties, whereas they are the same. I elected White Beverley in the second twelve as “ Beverley,” which I believe is the original name. If we add the votes accorded to Beverley (10) to those of White Beverley (21) it will place this fine variety in the first twenty-four, a position it well deserves. I am also of opinion that the compaiatively large number of first-class votes accorded to Mr. Howe were similarly intended for John Salter, which would also result in placing that well-known variety iD a more prominent position. — A. R. Cox, Elm Hall, Wavertree, Liverpool. I BEG to draw your attention to the result of the polling for the best forty-eight Chrysanthemums. White Beverley stands at No. 30 on the list, with eight first-class votes and thirteen second- class votes— total twenty-one. Beverley stands at No. 47 on the list, with ten second-class votes. As an old grower I do not know any difference between White Beverley and Beverley as usually called. If identical, which I believe them to be, the ten second- 152 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c February 22, 1 883. class votes of Beverley should go to White Beverley, bringing that variety up to tweDty-three second-class votes added to the eight first-class ditto — total thirty-one votes, displacing Mr. G. Glenny and Princess Beatrice. — Thos. Hobbs, Lower Easton, Bristol. That the election of incurved Chrysanthemums, as far as the first twenty-four varieties are concerned, is a decided success very few will dispute, and that, considering there is this number of distinct sorts of nearly equal merit, it was to be expected that there would be some little difference of opinion in selecting the best twelve. Yet the selection of any twelve does not discard many of the others from being of equal merit, though they have been placed with second honours. Slightly different tastes in arrangement of colours, &c., have no doubt had much to do with the result of the election, as, for instance, in respect to my own ideas. I am of opinion that white being the principal colour, there should be at least three whites in the first twelve. This opinion I find lost me a point. Then, again, we are at a loss to select the best bronze. Some, like myself, would prefer Bronze Jard in for its size and substance, others prefer Barbara for its fine build. So that, looking at these little differences in this light, there is a remarkable unanimous agreement among those who really know anything about incurved Chrysanthemums ; and no one knows more than those who have to cater for the growers what the value of such an election is, for many of the lists given from time to time by correspondents in the various gardening papers are anything but reliable. I cannot see why a florist should be obliged to keep two hundred incurved varieties when a hundred would suffice. Though the success of the first two selections is all that could be desired, I think many will agree with me that the remaining selections are far from being satisfactory. The fact is there are numbers of varieties scattered among a multitude of growers who think none like their own. They at once suppose the few they possess are the best to be had. The number of names given to make up the remaining twenty-four (and I understand that several of them have been put down for the first selection) is marvellous. We are told there are 156 sorts mentioned to make a selection of forty-eight. Many of these sorts are altogether forgotten or else never heard of ; some are little larger than Pompons, others are purely reflexed varieties, as Hermione and Countess of Granville. However, we have a list of sixty-two names enumerated. In the first place we must look at the various synonyms, and see how materially these alter the list. For instance, Miss Mary Morgan has twelve votes, Pink Perfection has nine ; these have to be added together, and the one variety, for such they are, finds its proper place. White Beverley, and Beverley too — surely these should be added. Next we find Emily Dale with sixteen and Golden Queen with twenty. These may or may not be exactly identical, yet I venture to say most electors have treated them as alike, so that the one variety loses its position through being divided. Again, Mr. Howe and John Salter are certainly of equal substance and merit ; in fact they are so much alike that they cannot be well placed in the same stand of twenty-four, yet look at their positions — John Salter, fifty-two votes ; Mr. Howe, fourteen. Angelina surely deserves a better position. I consider it a decided acquisition for its colour, whereas we could dispense with its parent, Lady Slade, for colour, and yet we find thirty-two points’ difference. I can only put these (what I would term irregularities) in the list, either from the varieties being divided by synonyms, or else, as in the case of Angelina, not sufficiently well known. There are a few varieties which well deserve a place of honour which seem to have been quite lost sight of, among which I would mention Album formusum, Luteum formosum, Rev. J. Dix, James Laing, and Hercules. They are mentioned among the sundries, but all have a place in forty -eight. In conclusion, I think we have to thank the Editors for their valued labours in bringing about such an election, which will no doubt induce criticism from others besides myself, which will all tend to the mutual benefit of the many lovers of these beautiful flowers. — N. Davis, Camberwell. Spring Flowers. — Our Hellebores are beautiful now ; Daphne Mezereum is also showing its pretty flowers. That charming winter flowerer Erica carnea, often wrongly called Erica mediterranea, will soon be in full tuauty ; it makes a fine edging in the spring garden. Winter Aconites (Erantbis hyemalis) are now in bloom. Snowdrops are opening their flowers. Arabia albida is showing its beautiful white flowers. The double Daisies (Beilis perennis plena) are ad¬ vancing. Jasminum nudiflorum is always beautiful, and Forsythia viridissima is producing its yellow flowers. Myosotis dissitiflora 13 blooming, and soon we shall have others to follow. — Verna. WATERING PLANTS. I have read with interest Mr. W. Taylor’s article on this sub¬ ject. Most gardeners will agree with him on many points ; but I expect many like myself will pause at one of his paragraphs, and that is where he says — “ Were I able to attend to a houseful of plants myself I would have the pots both glazed and without a hole for drainage.” I was very much surprised on reading it, as he is so particular about drainage for his Vines. I have often heard it mentioned that not one young gardener in a hundred knows how to water a plant ; and I have never seen anyone so particular in watering plants as my father. I have often heard him say that when he waters a plant he liked to always see the water pass freely away through the drainage, and I expect he has grown as good Ericas and Lisianthus Russellianus as any man in the country. I mention these plants as they require careful watering to keep them in good health. Mr. Taylor also mentions “ that he has frequently with advantage corked the bottom of a pot after it had become full of roots.” Has he corked up the bottom of a pot from the first of a plant’s existence ? as after it had become full of roots it would not be likely to suffer so much ; or if the pot was porous (and not glazed) it may evaporate through the pot. I have heard growers of delicate Heaths say that during the winter months they rubbed the sides of the pots to see if there was moisture in the soil. If the pot became damp it was a sign there was, if not it was dry ; but of course the pots used were very porous. — A. Young. CYPRIPEDIUMS. {Continued from 'page 118.) Green-leaved Species. — Next in interest to C. Spicerianum, which has already been referred to, is C. Stoneanum, one of the most handsome in the whole genus, and is more frequently seen under the name C. Stonei ; but the former termination is, I believe, the correct one, as the plant was named in honour of Mr. Stone, gardener to Mr. J. Day of Tottenham, who neither introduced nor raised it. The species is a native of Borneo, and was sent to England from Sarawak about thirty years ago, first passing into the hands of Messrs. H. Low & Co., and thence to Mr. J. Day, by whose gardener it, amongst many other Orchids, was exceedingly well cultivated. For some years it continued scarce, but fresh importations soon reduced the price, and plants of moderate size can now be purchased at most establishments for half a guinea, a comparatively small price for such a beautiful Orchid. It has narrow green leaves and spikes of two to four flowers, the sepals of which are white, the dorsal sepal being broad, somewhat heart- shaped, and streaked on the back with purple. The petals in the ordinary form are narrow, yellowish, with purple spots, and the lip, which is of good size and finely formed, is bright shining rosy purple veined with a darker shade. This, the original type, is, however, far surpassed by the magnificent variety platytamium, the broad-petaled form of C. Stoneanum, w'hich is perhaps the most handsome of the genus, as it is unquestionably the most valuable. It first flowered in Mr. J. Day’s collection sixteen years since, and was probably received with plants of the ordinary form, but when its flowers were produced it created quite a sensation amongst Orchid growers. It is chiefly distinguished from the species by its much broader petals, which are beautifully spotted with dark purple, the dorsal sepal being also finely streaked with purple. There are few plants of this variety in cultivation, and it will doubtlessly continue scarce for some time yet, though every effort will be made to increase so valuable a plant. When Mr. Day’s Orchids were sold in 1881 two specimens of this variety were included, one of which was purchased by Sir Trevor Lawrence for 140 guineas, and the other, I believe, by a London nurseryman for 20 guineas less. Neither of these were of great size, the last mentioned only having two shoots and seven leaves ; and yet the purchasers did not obtain these prizes without experiencing sharp competition, as the prices indicate, and that given for the first plant is said to be by far the highest sum that has ever been paid for a single Orchid. It has now enriched the Burford Lodge collection, and will always possess an historical interest, even when other plants of the same variety shall be readily obtainable for as many shillings as that cost pounds. Several other varieties of C. Stoneanum are seen in collections which greatly surpass the common form in size of flower and richness of colour, but none equals that described above. One of the largest specimens and the best variety that I have seen is that in Mrs. Torr’s collection at Garbrand Hall, Ewell, which has been February 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 153 shown by Mr. Child on several occasions at the Royal Botanic Society’s 8hows, Regent’s Park, and at the Royal Horticultural Society’s exhibitions. On some occasions I have seen it with two dozen flowers, or four to each of the five spikes. A high price has been refused for this plant. Nearly related to C. Stoneanum is another attractive species — C. laevigatum, but they are, however, readily distinguished. The latter has flowers similar in shape to C. Stoneanum, the dorsal sepal being broad and heart-shaped, white or yellowish, but it is regularly streaked with purple on the front surface instead of the back, the petals being narrow, 5 to 6 inches long, pale yellow with heavy marginal spots of purple, and the lip is also of a yellowish hue. When well grown this is scarcely less attractive than C. Stoneanum, and like that it requires a high temperature to succeed with it. Plants were first introduced by Mr. J. G. Veitch, who found it in the Phillipine Islands, and particularly abundant on the coast of one small island, where it was growing in large masses upon the roots of Vanda Batemanni. C. Lowii is one of the oldest species of the green-leaved group, Fig. 44. — Cypripedium Lowii. having made its appearance in England in 1847, when it was introduced from its native home, Borneo. Though less beautiful than the two preceding, it possesses attractions of no mean order, and is included in most large collections. The accompanying woodcut (fig. 44) shows the form of the flowers very faithfully, and one of the chief distinguishing characters, the spathulate form of the petals, will be at once noticed. These are narrow and greenish yellow at the base spotted with yellow, and gradually widen to the tip, which is suffused with a rosy tinge ; the lip is purplish green, the dorsal sepal being also greenish and purple at the base. This is a free-growing species, but it never flowers so abundantly as it is said to do in its native home, where plants have been observed bearing spikes of six and seven flowers each. C. villosum can only be considered to rank next to C. insigne as a useful garden plant that is easily grown and flowers freely. This fine plant is a native of India, being found in Moulmein at considerable elevations, usually upwards of 4000 feet above sea level, and has been well known in cultivation for ten years or more. It is of free growth, and is remarkable for the length of lime its flowers last in good condition either cut or on the plant. Fine specimens are readily obtained, and it is one of the chief favourites for exhibition, as it bears transit well, and a plant will often continue in flower throughout April and May. The blooms are large, 5 or 6 inches in diameter, the sepals and petals similar in colour, which is very peculiar — a bright yellowish brown with a distinct purplish tinge, the lip being also brown, and the whole surface of the flower has a shining appearance as if it had been polished. This is often seen at exhibitions, and some of the finest examples in cultivation are those in Mr. B. S. Williams’ nursery, Upper Holloway, where amongst many other useful Orchids they are admirably grown. There is one member of the genus which scarcely needs describ¬ ing, so widely is it known and so generally is it cultivated — namely, C. insigne, and where one Orchid only is grown this is nearly certain to be the favoured selection. Whether in Orchid houses proper, stoves, vineries, or even greenhouses, this plant seems to thrive nearly equally well if we except the last mentioned, though I have occasionally seen healthy plants in as low a tem¬ perature as that. In a vinery, however, the plant succeeds admirably, and this is a great advantage where there is no special accommodation for Orchids. However, I would recommend those doubtful respecting the culture of this Cypripedium to peruse the concise notes upon the subject by Mr. W. Bardney, page 111 of this Journal, February 12tb, 1880. Several varieties of this species have made their appearance, but undoubtedly the best is C. insigne Maulei, which has a more highly coloured flower as regards the petals and lip, the dorsal sepal being large, and the upper half is pure white. C. insigne Chantinii is very similar to the above, and indeed in many cases plants under the two names are identical ; but I have sc en a variety, said to be the true one, which differs in the growth and foliage from Maulei. The species is one of the oldest of the exotic Cypripediums, exclusive of some American species which were introduced at the close of last century. C insigne and C. venus- tum are the only two Asiatic species mentioned in Sweet’s “ Hortus Britannicus ” (1827), the latter having been obtained in 1816. and the other in 1819, both having been introduced through Dr. Wallich. The earliest figure I have seen is in the “Botanical Magazine ” for 1836 (fig. 3412), which represents a flower of good size, but with much more green in it than we ever see it now. In my previous notes upon the Marble-leaved Cypripediums the charming little species C. niveum was inadvertently omitted. It should have been named with C. concolor, as they are alike in habit and form of the flowers. The leaves are prettily spotted, the flowers being very neat in form, with ovate or elliptical sepals and petals, nearly equal in size and form, soft white, the petals dotted with crimson near the base, and the sepals stained with a similar tint on the back. The lip is egg-shaped and pure white. It is a native of some small islands between Singapore and Borneo, whence it was imported about twelve years since by Mr. W. Bull, and it has also been found on the coast of Siam. An excellent figure of the species was given in this Journal, page 339, May 11, 1871.— L. Castle. (To be continued.) POTATOES FOR TABLE AND MARKET. | In the following notes the figures 1, 2, and 3 indicate first early, second early, and late varieties ; the months the time of planting ; and the asterisks those varieties that are considered the best for market purposes by the respective cultivators. Bedfordshire. — 1. First week in March. *Hamroersmith Kidney, Old Ashleaf, and Yeitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — • Heavy. 2. Middle or end of March. *Myatt’s Prolific, Schoolmaster, and *Sut- tons’ King. Soil. — Heavy. 3. April. *Scotch Champion, Magnum Bonum, *Dunbar Regent, and Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — Very heavy. Manures and Application. — Stable manure from old hotbeds for early garden Potatoes. Farmyard and Odams’ manure for field Potatoes. Ground dug for garden planting ; ploughed for field plant¬ ing. — Charles Butthr6, Luton Hoo Park Gardens. Berkshire. — 1. February and March. *Suttons’ or Rivers’ Ash¬ leaf (equally good), Suttons’ First and Best, Early Border, Fillbasket. I tried a seedling raised by Mr. Fenn, who called it Sulhampstead Abbots ; it will be sent out next year by Messrs. Sutton. It proved one of the finest earlies I ever grew. Soil. — I always select the driest and lightest borders, which are made lighter with the soil or manure added in the drills thickly. 2. March. Reading Russet, *Lady Truscott, *Fiftyfold, Suttons’ Early Regent. Soil. — This is made to a medium soil, although naturally heavy, resting on strong clay. All soils of a light nature are brought to the Potato quarters, or we could not grow Potatoes here, it being so very stiff. 3. March and April. *Magnum Bonum, *Reading Hero, *Seotch Champion (for field), Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — The same as the preceding. Manures and Application. — Old Mushroom beds and leaf soil with soot and salt added. The manure is placed in drills a foot wide, both under and on the sets, and placed thickly ; for by giving plenty of room to the sets it is almost impossible to over¬ manure with the materials as stated above. Salt and soot are used according to the quantity of leaf soil and Mushroom-bed material. General Cultural Remarks. — All Potato ground where possible is dug 154 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 22, isss. up roughly early in the autumn, no manure being then added. In the spring, when planting time comes, it is again dug and planted as the work proceeds. The sets, according to the kind or height, are given plenty of room, so that they are never crowded. Dwarf kinds are planted 26 inches from row to row, 15 inches apart in the row ; medium growers are 30 inches from row to row, 18 inches in the row ; tall kinds, such as Magnum Bonum and Reading Hero, 3 feet apart each way. I generally plant the sets not more than 4 inches under the soil, but earth up well ; the last time one man follows another, and presses the soil up well to the stems with his hands. I have tried many kinds of Potatoes, and for seven years have had most of new kinds as they have been offered to the public, and in every kind tried have found the manure I name to answer the best, but so much would not answer on lighter soils and in dry weather. I must also say that for quality those raised by Mr. Fenn of late years are the finest, excepting the Ashleaf section. I never plant sets with more than two eyes, and for exhibition only one. — Charles Ilott, W oka- field Park , Mortimer. 1. First week in February. Early Handsworth, *Rivers’ Royal Ash¬ leaf, *Veitch’s Ashleaf, Myatt’s Ashleaf. Soil. — Light. 2. Third week in February. Suttons’ Woodstock Kidney, *Suttons’ Fiftyfold, *Sut- tons’ Reading Russet, Suttons’ Early Border. Soil. — Light. 3. First week in March. Paterson’s Victoria, *Suttons’ Reading Hero, Mag¬ num Bonum, *Scotch Champion. Soil. — Light. Cultural Remarks. — j Garden Potatoes. — We lightly manure our Potato land in the autumn and ridge it, fork it over in February, and plant with a pin, allowing 3 feet from each row and 2 feet from each set. Field Late Potatoes. — Field Potato land is dunged in the autumn, about j eight loads to the acre, ploughed early in the autumn, and again ploughed in the spring the reverse way, and well harrowed when the land is dry enough. Distance between the rows 2 feet 6 inches ; 1 foot 6 inches between the sets. — William Meads, Beckett Park. 1. Fourth week in March. *Kentish or Mona’s Pride, Myatt’s Ash- ! leaf. Soil. — A medium soil will suit the above-named varieties the : best. 2. Fourth week in March. ♦American Purple, Early Rose, Schoolmaster, *Reading Russet. Soil— A light soil will be found the best for the above. 3. First week in March. *Paterson’s Victoria, ♦Magnum Bonum, *White Elephant. Soil.— A rather poor medium soil is most suitable for these. Manures and Application. — I recom¬ mend manuring the previous season and cropping it with green vege¬ tables before cropping the land with Potatoes, and if wood ashes can be obtained I lay the sets in the trench and cover them with the ashes. Cultural Remarks. — I have grown a great number of varieties of Potatoes, but have found very few that are really good for table. I grew about forty varieties last season. The American Purple I found to be the best, as when cooked it is snow white and very j floury. It is a heavy cropper when grown on a light soil. — William SKARROTT, Woolley Firs, Maidenhead Thicket. 1. First week in April. Hammersmith Kidney, Mona’s Pride, ♦Myatt’s Ashleaf, Porter’s Excelsior. Soil. — Light gravelly loam, i resting on a shingly subsoil. 2. First week in April. *Snowflake,’ Lapstone, Dawe’s Matchless, *Dalmahoy. Soil. — Soil the same as for first earlies. 3. End of March. *Paterson’s Victoria, Magnum Bonum, *Tork Regent, Reading Hero. Soil. — A fine productive loam of medium texture on a subsoil of chalk. Manures and Appli¬ cation. — Our first and second earlies generally have a good dressing of spent hotbed manure forked in at time of planting. Late varieties receive a dressing of well-decomposed farmyard manure, ploughed in about the middle of January. Cultural Remarks. — We generally rely upon the old standard varieties, as a great many of the newer introductions do not give satisfaction, although I think Reading Hero will prove an exception. As a first early Hammersmith Kidney is all that could be desired with us. I find early planting is a great mis¬ take, especially with us, as we are situated in a valley close to the river Thames.— S. Mortimer, The Gardens , Purley Park, Reading. 1. Early in March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Early Coldstream. Soil. — Heavy, with a chalk subsoil, and is the same in both the following cases. 2. End of March or early in April. Woodstock j Kidney, Radstock Beauty. Lapstone. 3. Early in April. *Magnum I Bonum, Scotch Champion, Reading Hero, Paterson’s Victoria. Manures and Application.— No manure is given when the tubers are planted, but they are planted where the ground was manured one year previously. No artificial manure is used, as we have plenty of stable manure here, and the quality of the tubers is not so good when too much manure is employed. Cultural Remarks. — The earliest Potatoes are laid singly to sprout some time before planting j and are planted 2 feet apart between the rows, and 1 foot from set to set, the two early kinds mentioned being of very good quality. The later kinds are planted at various distances apart from 2 to 3 feet between the rows, according to the strength of the haulm. Magnum Bonum is a first-class Potato for field culture in this neighbourhood. Vicar of Laleham is a wonderful cropper, but does not eat well grown on our heavy soil. Suttons’ Prizetaker cropped well, and the tubers when cooked were of first-rate quality. Suttons’ Reading Hero cropped well, and was free from disease and of good quality when cooked. I think these two kinds -worthy of extensive cultivation but have not yet seen them tried for field culture — Joshua Atkins' Locking e Gardens, Wantage. ’ !• The two first in frames in January, in open ground the middle of April. Suttons’ Selected Ashleaf, Suttons’ Early Border, Suttons’ Field Ashleaf, Suttons’ Lady Truscott. Soil. — A fair sound gravelly loam is the nature of my soil. The middle of April, as a rule, is the most suitable time for all the early sorts in the open ground, for if planted earlier they are in too much danger of being cut off by frost. 2, Middle of April. Suttons’ Woodstock, Suttons’ Early Regent, Buttons’ Prizetaker, Suttons’ Reading Russet. Soil. — Same as for first earlies. 3. The Fiftyfold and Standard middle of April, Hero and Magnum the middle of March if the weather is dry and the ground suitable. Suttons’ Standard, Suttons’ Fiftyfold, Suttons’ Reading Hero, Suttons’ Magnum Bonum. Soil. — If a low-lying, stiff, cold soil defer the planting till April. An extensive trial of autumn-planted Potatoes, with their exact prototypes, planted last April, was carried out at the Messrs. Suttons’ trial grounds, and, with the exception of Early Border and Fenn’s Graft Hybrid, every sort turned out quite one-third less in produce from those which were autumn-planted. Manures and Application. — I never was an advocate for raw manures — viz., farmyard or other dungs, at planting time. I use these for other crops a year previously, and I may say, for my experience, I have used but little of the artificial manures. Dissolved bones mixed with road grit, ditch cleanings, and matters of this sort, cannot be used amiss at the time of planting, more or less, according to the stamina of the soil. Quicklime is good for stiff loam or on clay, and wood ashes are always acceptable to me. Cultural Remarks. — I may say that I now grow Potatoes on a much larger scale than was my wont years ago, and I cannot adopt the nicety of cultivation that I then took so much pleasure to write about. I do not depart, however, from the advice I gave in the old Cottage Gardener in re¬ gard to very early produce — viz., by selecting the seed when the crop is dug, preserving it in shallow layers where they can be easily covered in case of frosts. Under this management the tubers will have made strong sturdy shoots by the beginning of April. When young Potatoes are required for early market purposes they should be planted by the beginning of April, and then quite three weeks in precocity may be calculated upon ; but the young growing tops must be carefully watched for, and covered or earthed over to prevent injury from frosts. — Robert Fenn, Sulhamstead Abbots, near Reading. Buckinghamshire. — 1. As early in February as the state of the weather will permit. *Early Bird, *Veitch’s Ashleaf, and Ruby. Soil. — Mostly planted on borders, which are of a light rich loam. 2. Middle of March. *Myatt’s Ashleaf, Dalmahoy, *Prince Arthur, ♦Paterson’s Victoria, Schoolmaster. Soil. — Moderately heavy loam. 3. Middle of April. *Magnum Bonum, Scotch Champion, *Dunbar Regent, Vicar of Laleham. Soil. — We have medium and heavy loam used for this crop. In dry autumns the heavy loams produce best results. Manures and Application. — The Aylesbury Native Guano, wood ashes, stable manure, and charred garden refuse. Manures are dug in the ridges in the autumn, native guano and wood ashes strewn in the bottom of the ridges, and mixed with the soil before planting. Cultural Remarks. — All the ground intended for Potatoes is ridged early in autumn ; for late varieties 3 feet apart, early varieties 2J feet apart. The sets are planted between the ridges and slightly covered with the loose soil on the sides of the ridges. As they grow the soil is kept drawn up to them, and sometimes the soil between the ridges is forked over. I have grown here over forty varieties of Potatoes, but at present our main crops are of the above varieties. I am growing Reading Hero, but cannot form an opinion of it at present. — J. Smith, Mentmore, Leighton Buzzard. 1. First or second week in February. Veitch’s Ashleaf, Lady Paget, Early Bird, Union. Soil. — Light and rich, in which the Ashleaf section does remarkably well. 2. Early Rose, Covent Gar¬ den Perfection, Climax, Early Coldstream. Soil. — Light and rich. Intermediate crops lifted early are excellent in all respects. 3. School¬ master, Magnum Bonum, Paterson’s Victoria, Champion. Soil. _ Light, rich. Late kinds produce too much haulm, but yield abun¬ dantly. Cultural Remarks. — Potatoes are chiefly grown in the kitchen garden, which from good cultivation has naturally become very rich, and requires no manure for the Potato crop. — Geo. Thos. Miles, Wycombe Abbey Gardens. Cambridgeshire.— 1. About 14th of February. Myatt’s Ashleaf, Veitch’s Ashleaf, Early Rose. Soil. — Very light and sandy; gravel subsoil. 2. About 15th of March. *Late Rose. 3. First week in April. ♦Magnum Bonum. *Scotch Champion. Manures and Application. _ I always use well-decayed farmyard manure, digging in a good dressing at least six weeks before planting. Cultural Remarks. _ In planting I draw drills in preference to using a blunt dibber, as it does not leave a hard bottom for the sets to rest on. I keep them well hoed, and as soon as ripe take them up, and do not leave them in the ground, as often seen, choosing dry weather for the operation, and they will cook floury. — F. Orchard, The Gardens, Abington Hall. 1. From the middle of March to the first week in April, except for extra early, which I plant in the latter end of February. *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, *Suttons’ Fillbasket, Triumph, Beauty of Kent. Soil. — From light to stiffish loam. 2. About the middle of March. Woodstock Kidney, *Covent Garden Perfection, *Dalmahoy, Pride of America. Soil. — From light to stiffish loam. 3. As early in March as I can get the land in order. *Paterson’s Victoria, Reading Hero, ♦Suttons’ Magnum Bonum, Schoolmaster. Soil. — From light to February 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 155 stiffish loam. Manures and Application. — Stable manure, pig ma¬ nure, and slaughter-house manure, including blood, to which I add about half a hundredweight of salt and 1 bushel of soot, and mix all together. The quantity of salt and soot is for about a ton. I use about 8 tons per acre. Cultural Remarks. — I dig the land a spit deep early in the autumn, and leave it as rough as possible ; and as soon as the frost sets in I place the manure on the land in heaps, and as soon as it breaks up I spread the manure as evenly as possible, and then fork the land over, well mixing the manure with the soil and breaking all lumps, and as soon as the land is fairly dry I draw drills for the early sorts 2 feet apart, for the late 2 feet C inches apart, and cover as lightly a3 I can. They are hoed until they are fit for earthing, which I do as soon as they are about 6 inches high, and then again in about three weeks I draw some more soil to them, and have all weeds removed. — Joseph Butt, 17, Ruby Street, Wisbech. 1. February. Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Heavy, and is similar for the two other sections also. 2. End of February. Early Oxford, Snowflake, Excelsior, Dalmahoy. 3. Second week in March. Schoolmaster, Magnum Bonum, Scotch Champion, York Regent. Manures and Application. — Apply plenty of garden refuse, burnt, mixed with well- decayed leaf soil. At the time of planting give a good dressing of soot, also on a rainy day before earthing up. Cultural Remarks. — I always like to dig and plant at the same time, in fine weather if possible. If not fine I have a board to run the barrow on with the mixture, as before stated. I have lines 2 or 3 feet apart accord¬ ing to the sorts I am planting. Cut down straight with the spade about 5 or 6 inches deep, put about 3 inches of the prepared soil in, and then put the set on it and fill up with the mixture, continuing till finished. That is the way I have to do with my heavy soil. — William Humphreys, Wimpole Gardens, Royston. GRAFTING. CROWN GRAFTING. This is a very simple and useful method, and is adapted to stocks of different sizes, and to all kinds of fruit trees. It is done in spring as soon as the bark rises freely from the alburnum, but care must be taken to prepare the scions as has been previously de¬ scribed. The upper half of the scion should have two or three eyes, corresponding with the cut on the scion, and apply it. The larger a 9tock is the more scions will be put on the top of it. To render the union more complete, a space of 2 inches should intervene between them. A ligature, not too close nor too tight, is necessary after the insertion of the scions. Wax or clay is applied, and the adherence of the wax is facilitated by wiping off the sap issuing from the amputated parts. Fig. 45 represents a crown graft tied and waxed. The wax i3 spread on the amputated part (a) of the stock, on the wound (e) at the junction of the scion with the stock, and on the top of the cut scion (o). The terminal bud (u) is not covered, nor the embedded bud (y) in the incision. Crown grafting is, therefore, indis¬ pensable when operating on large trees, and a great number of branches can be produced to correspond to the nourishment supplied by the roots. Ordinary Crown Grafting. — Given a stock (fig. 46, b) headed down, three scions (c c c ") are inserted upon it in pro¬ portion to its diameter. It would be difficult to place many scions without splitting the bark at least in only one part. The tension produced by the inoculation of many shoots will end in rending the cortical layers. That accident can be prevented by a longitudinal incision (d), which not only facilitates the sliding of the scion d , but permits the others ( c and c") to be at ease, and not to threaten the splitting of the bark of the stock. When tied, then wax the crown of the stem, the top of the scions, and front and back on the bark of the stock. iSafc Fig. 45. and its lower should have a long slanting cut, beginning opposite a bud and terminating in a thin point. A small notch or shoulder at the upper part of the cut is useful, as it keeps the scion as if seated on the stock. The insertion of the scion is in the head of the stock on the cut between the bark and the wood, and both sides of the point of the scion should be cut thin to facilitate its sliding in, and that point is often moistened between the lips. A small instrument of wood or ivory, wedge-shaped at the point, is used to raise the bark and to facilitate the introduction of the scion, which is slipped in between the bark and the wood. The introduction of the scion is simplified in most cases by the cir¬ culation of the sap, which separates the bark from the alburnum. H jwever, it happens that scions of a large size threaten to tear the tissues ; to avoid this take off a slice of bark from the stock GROWING DWARF LOCULI AS. In last week’s Journal “ J. J.” asks for any information bearing on the cultivation of dwarf plants of Luculia gratissima. That such can be grown successfully I have proved, and plants rooted at this season will, if liberally treated, give good heads of flower in November. The chief difficulty is in propagating the plants. If “ J. J.” has a propagating case with a good bottom heat, and can procure good cuttings — that should not be too hard — he need not fear the result. The shoots produced behind last year’s flower heads are the best for the purpose. These should be taken off with a good heel and inserted singly in thumb pots of very sandy soil, water them, and plunge them in the case. Keep the case close till the cuttings are rooted, and only give sufficient moisture to prevent flagging. When the cuttings are rooted they should be carefully removed from the propagating case, taking care that they do not flag after removal. When the thumb pots are filled with roots the plants should have a shift into 5-inch pots, employ¬ ing rich compost, and when established they must be placed in a light position in a cool stove or intermediate house. The plants must be kept free from red spider, and on no account be allowed to flag, as they soon lose their leaves if at any time the soil be¬ comes dry. Treated in this way few of the plants will fail to produce good heads of flowers. — E. B. MAKING AND RENOVATING LAWNS. ( Continued from Rage 68.) It has been already advised to have the lawn gently sloping from the building or principal point of view, and it should slope from the line of vision about 1 foot in 25, so as to give the effect of a plane surface to the eye of the spectator. When the ground undulates naturally it will be desirable to preserve as much of this surface as possible. Even in the immediate proximity of the mansion much may be done to give the appearance of a plane surface by planting the acclivities, which will show the trees or shrubs to best advantage ; and this, whilst continuing to extend the plane surface of the lawn, will be more economical than levelling the hills to fill up the hollows, which is often done to the perma¬ nent injury of the natural features of the place. If the situation be flat it should be relieved by planting rather than attempting to form mounds of earth to represent hills in miniature, which are never more out of place than on a flat surface. We not unfre- quently see lawns disfigured by raised beds with sharply inclined turf down to a level lawn planted with shrubs which have an incongruous appearance. For mounds trees or shrubs of depen¬ dent habit only should be chosen. The foregoing remarks apply to the individual bed, clump, or specimen isolated or detached from the clumps or screens forming the margin of the lawn, with its specimens in the immediate fore¬ ground, for there is no objection if the ground be naturally so disposed ; or if there be any refuse soil at command it may be deposited there to form a mound, first removing the good soil and laying it on one side so to cover any accumulated matter not favourable to the growth of trees or shrubs. The rough portion 156 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 22, 1883. should be placed at the bottom, then the more adhesive portion, and the good soil at the top. In the form of these anything approaching to abruptness must be avoided, especially where the ground is naturally flat or only marked by gentle undulations. The diversity of the mounded surface will admit of a different planting, and this judiciously effected will produce an agreeable and variable result, especially where the ground is moderately undulating in the foreground, increasing more in the distance, the sky view being bounded by hills ; but with a flat open country mounds should not be introduced. If introduced at all in such a 6cene it should be at the side or back of the building, to which they may be made to contribute considerably in effect, as well as for their utility where it is undesirable to continue the view in that direction. The front view we have alluded to before, and it will now be necessary to treat of the sides in a manner different from the foregoing. With a similarity of view on the side as in front, there ought not to be any attempt at changing their contour from that presented in the foreground, but the lawn must be continued and planted where it joins the park or other scenery so as to harmonise therewith. But should the sides be of an entirely diverse nature, then so much only should be made to harmonise with the front view as will be taken in from the principal point of vision, and be made to blend with the changing scenery. This will appear as a distinct feature, and every effort must be made to insure that, whilst harmonising with the foreground or front, it should be as varied as possible. If the ground rise from the point of view, then no better position could be chosen for a display of Conifers, disposing them in groups, with isolated specimens, as shall best display them in wavy outline. Much can be done to give variety and effect if a small stream of water can be led through the lawn, and if it can be brought in flowing over a small cascade or issuing from some figure it will be better, and then conducted to a pond for gold fish and aquatic plants, and at some distance it may be widened to afford an apparent necessity for a bridge, which may be thrown over it in association with rockwork, on the sides of which climbers or creepers may be introduced. The shrubbery should be arranged at the boundary with a properly disposed walk leading through it, and beds of flowers placed on its margin in the openings, and a few clumps of shrubs or small trees dotted upon the grass. A rustic erection in the walk covered with climbers, and a recess in the centre furnished with table and seats, may be appropriate. Flowers may also be introduced with effect, especially if placed in the neatest part of the grounds. Vases may be used with good effect, especially by the wall and near the house. In the matter of terraces these should have corresponding slopes, and have a base twice that of the perpendicular height, so as to allow of their easy ascent or descent, and the readier keeping them in order by the mowing machine. Very steep slopes in grass are difficult, and entail great labour to keep them in order, and are more liable to suffer from drought than those with less gradient. — G. Abbey. (To be continued.) “ D., Deal," states that the following Rose show fixtures have already been arranged : — Cardiff, June 27th ; National Rose Society's Southern Show (Southampton), June 28th ; Can¬ terbury, June 29th ; Reigate, June 30th ; National Rose Society (South Kensington), July 3rd ; Bath, July 5th ; National Rose Society (Sheffield), July 12th ; Leek, July 17th ; Darlington, July 20th (?). - At a recent meeting of the Committee of the Gardeners’ Royal Benevolent Institution Edward Tidswell, Esq., of the firm of Bollen & Tidswell, of No. 3, Wood Street, Cheapside, was unanimously elected the Treasurer of the Institution in the room of the late Robert Wrench, Esq. - In reply to a question put by Sir T. Lawrence in the House of Commons last Monday in reference to the earlier opening of Kew Gardens, Mr. Shaw Lefebvre stated that Sir Joseph Hooker had promised that at the commencement of the financial year the Gardens will be opened one hour earlier than usual — namely, at noon instead of at 1 p.m. We presume that visitors will be admitted to the houses at the usual time. - We regret to learn that Mr. T. Snelling, of the Middle Temple Gardens, died very suddenly on Tuesday last, the 20th inst. When passing along Fleet Street about half¬ past 11 A.M. he was observed to fall to the ground insensible, and when conveyed to King’s College Hospital he was found to be dead. He was 45 years of age, and was appointed gardener at the Middle Temple about four years ago, previous to which time he held the position of head gardener to H. Rod well, Esq., Ampton Park, Bury St. Edmunds. The display of Chrysanthemums at these gardens, it will be remembered, attracted many visitors last year, a great improvement having been effected as compared with preceding years’ shows. - A Young Gardener writes that he read with great pleasure “Excelsior’s” article upon “Gardening and Gar¬ deners,” page 87, but thinks that head gardeners might often do very much to encourage their young men in acquiring know¬ ledge, and also that there is great room for improvement in the construction and conveniences of the majority of bothies, which might well receive the attention of both gentlemen and gardeners* - We have received a copy of the rules of the Brighton Hove and South of England Chrysanthemum Society, which has been recently started and is receiving good support. It is intended to hold an exhibition in November next, but the date and place are not yet decided upon. A meeting will be held at the Odd Fellows’ Hall, Queen’s Road, Brighton, on Thursday, March 1st, which it is hoped will be attended by all locally inter¬ ested in the project. The Secretary is Mr. M. Longhurst, 111, Western Road, Brighton. - The schedule of the Ghent International Horticul¬ tural Exhibition that takes place April 15th to 22nd of the present year is now issued, and gives full particulars of the classes, prizes, and conditions under which the Exhibition will be held. Two hundred and ninety-two classes are enumerated, of which two hundred and sixty-eight are for plants, the remain¬ ing classes being devoted to various useful and ornamental articles employed in gardening. Three prizes are offered in each class — gold medals framed and plain, silver-gilt medals, and silver medals of first and second values, the gold medals ranging in value from 300 to 100 francs. In two classes, however, Mr. W. Bull of Chelsea offers three silver cups value fifteen, ten, and six guineas each for twelve, new plants sent out by him since 1880. Abundant provision is made for new plants, Orchids, Palms, Ferns, Cycads, Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Camellias, bulbs, with miscellanceous flowering and fine-foliage plants. There are no less than ninety classes devoted to particular genera or species of plants, exclusive of those appropriated to whole families, like the Orchids, Ferns, &c. - The following Gardening Appointments have recently been made through John Laing & Co., Forest Hill — Mr. James Ford, recently gardener to Horace Barry, Esq., Bush Hill House, Winchmore Hill, has been appointed gardener to W. R. Arbuthnot, Esq., Plawhatch, East Grinstead ; Mr. James McHardy, late gar¬ dener to M. S. Riach, Esq., Silverton Lodge, Upper Norwood, succeeds Mr. Ford at Bush Hill House, Winchmore Hill ; and Mr. John Bissett, late foreman to Mrs. Lyne Stephens, Lyndford Hall, Norfolk, has been appointed head gardener to Lady Charles Wellesley, Conholt Park, Andover. _ MR. W. Melville, Glenlee, New Galloway, Kirkcud¬ brightshire, writes : — " Seeing reports of rainfall in the Journal February 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 157 of Horticulture from various parts of the country, and thinking it might be interesting for sake of comparison, I send you the rain¬ fall measured here for the past year, 1882. January, 4-32 inches ; February, 7’23 inches ; March, 5-44 inches ; April, 3 79 inches ; May, 1-68 inch; June, 3 25 inches; July, 8 09 inches; August, 3 79 inches ; September, 4-57 inches ; October, 5'9G inches ; November, 7-99 inches ; December, 4-80 inches ; total, 60 91 inches. The greatest rainfall in twenty-four hours was l-64 inch on the 1st September.’ ♦ - The schedule of the Royal Horticultural Society’s arrangements for 1883 is now issued, and gives full particulars of the exhibitions to be held during the approaching season. Promenade Shows will be held on March 27th, April 10th, and May 8th. At the first two medals will be awarded for groups of bulbs and miscellaneous forced plants, and at the latter for groups of Orchids. The National Auricula Society’s Southern Show will take place on April 24tb, when the usual prizes will be competed for. The Summer Show will be held on Tuesday and Wednesday, May 22nd and 23rd, when, in addition to thirty-two classes for plants, flowers, fruits, and vegetables, in which valuable prizes are offered, twenty classes are also provided for implements and garden structures, silver and bronze medals being offered in each class. In the Orchid classes an important stipulation is appended — namely, that the judges will consider whether the plants are single specimens or made-up plants, and that any specimen con¬ taining more than one distinct variety will disqualify the collec¬ tion. Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., also offers a special prize of £ 10 for the best collection of twelve exotic Orchids, distinct species and single plants. The Pelargonium Society’s Show will be held on June 26th, but the schedule has been previously noted in these pages. The National Rose Society’s Exhibition takes place on July 3rd, and the National Carnation and Picotee Society’s Show on July 24th, which will be referred to again at a later date. - A NUMBER of SPECIAL prizes will also be offered at the shows and meetings of the above Society, comprising the follow¬ ing : — March 27th, for seedling and named Amaryllises by a Fellow of the Society, and by Messrs. Sutton &c Sons for seed¬ ling Cinerarias. May 22nd, the Veitch Memorial prizes for specimen plants and Grapes ; for Calceolarias and Cucumbers by Messrs. Sutton & Sons ; and for Blenheim Orange and Emerald Melons by Messrs. Carter & Co. June 26th, for Tuberoses Begonias, Gloxinias, Peas, Lettuces, and Endive by Messrs. Sutton & Sons, and for a collection of vegetables by Messrs. Webb & Sons. July 3rd, for a collection of vegetables by Messrs. Sutton & Sons, for new Peas by Messrs. Carter & Co., for a collection of Roses raised at or introduced from Waltham Cross by Messrs. W. Paul & Sons, and for examples of the best methods of packing fruits for market by Messrs. Webber & Co. July 24th, for six; dishes of Tomatoes by Messrs. Carter & Co., and for Cabbages and Potatoes by Messrs. Sutton & Sons. December 11th, for new Onions and a collection of vegetables by Messrs. Carter & Co. HYBRIDS OF GLADIOLUS GANDAVENSIS. Circumstances have prevented my referring earlier to the interesting garden notes of your correspondent “ D., Deal," on this subject a short time since. As I am thus late I shall confine myself to one point alone. But first I must express my regret that such an experienced grower as “ D., Deal," should, even in a qualified manner, consider success and the perpetuation of the corms almost if not wholly unattainable. No doubt there are difficulties to be met and care is necessary, maturation and winter storing being too frequently neglected ; but those have often been stated in your columns. At present, as your correspondent referred to the losses of Mr. Banks within his vicinity — as many as fifty thousand ’tis said — I want to know (if there is no objec¬ tion to answer the question!, Is it not a fact that that gentleman left his choice hybrids of Gladiolus gandavensis out during the winter ? I hold a letter in my hand to this effect from a gentleman who should know, in the south of England ; and can only say, if the question must be answered in the affirmative, those who through the horticultural press for months past have made this the text for decrying the growing of Gladioli in future, should have stated this important fact if it was known to them. I am only referring now to your excellent correspondent “ D., Deal," because of his having lived in the locality of Sholden. — W. J. M., Clonmel. COLLECTIONS OF SEEDS. We would at once assure your correspondent “ C. T. H.” (page 109) that we had no desire or intention to misquote his remarks. We see, however, the writer of the letter has inad¬ vertently altered somewhat the sense of the latter portion of the paragraph. We would also thank your correspondent for the suggestion as to the numbers of varieties there should be of such a leading article as Peas. The position of “ C. T. H.” is evidently an exceptional one, because he admits that as a rule “ enough Beans of all sorts are annually saved here for seed, as well as Onions, Parsnips, Melons, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Marrows ; Spinach he does not care about.” We can therefore quite under¬ stand there would be no economy in his purchasing a guinea box of seeds ; but with ninety-nine other purchasers, even in a favour¬ able season, the trouble and expense of properly harvesting the most desirable selection from each variety of crop would soon tire them of the operation when they remembered what a liberal assortment of seeds of a quality everyone admits to be good could be obtained for the sum of one guinea. If any definite suggestions of a practical character can be obtained with regard to improving the composition of our boxes of seeds, as we have said before, we shall be glad to consider them. At the same time the fact still remains, that where one desires an alteration in the construction, a hundred purchase them in their integrity. We are afraid also that our intention in regard to these boxes of seeds is misunderstood. These collections were never intended to supply a want of the professional gardener, but they are calculated to meet a great want felt by thousands of amateurs and moderately experienced gardeners who are positively unacquainted with the varieties of seeds, and to whom these boxes, admitted, as they are, to contain in every instance varieties of standard excellence, must come as a great boon — as enabling them to obtain a knowledge of varieties that they could not otherwise obtain. We are afraid the remarks of your correspondent with regard to early orders and “ own selections ” read better than the suggestions would operate in practice, and for this reason. All seed-growers know that in every harvest they get larger crop returns of some sorts and varieties than others. Thus where the selection is left to the seedsman what would he do ? He would make up the assortment from those varieties which most abounded. The remarks of your correspondent relative to the quality of our goods are very gratifying, and we can only say if he will sketch his ideas of what he considers would make a guinea box that would meet with more general approval, and forward the same to us, we will give it our most earnest attention. In conclusion, we repeat that although the demand for these boxes increases greatly every year, it is surprising they are not purchased by “ every amateur.” — James Carter & Co. NORTH WARDS— DRUMLAN R IG. When at the Edinburgh Show in September I found that some of the visitors from England had called at Drumlanrig on their way to 'the Exhibition ; others, and perhaps the majority, paid a passing visit to Mr. Thomson on their journey home. Amongst those who had spent a few hours there before reaching the Show was the head of one of the finest gardening establishments in Britain, and one of the most skilful cultivators of the day. The result of his visit was an attack of Pines — Pines on the brain. “ Have you been to Drumlanrig ? ” asked my afflicted friend. “ No,” was the response. “ Are you going, then ? ” was the next question, and without giving time for an answer observed, not in the most gentle of tones, “ if you don’t go you will deserve thrash¬ ing ; you never saw such a house of Pines in your life as you can see there. I have been thinking and dreaming about them ever since. The Black Hamburghs are grand, but the Pines are mag¬ nificent.” “ Oh, if you want to see Grapes,” remarked another fine representative of the craft, “ you must go to Clovenfords.” Expressing a fear that that was out of my route, he very quickly retorted, “ Ob, you daren’t go ; you have been to Longleat and said there are no such Vines in the Queen’s dominions, but I tell 158 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 22, 1883. you there never was such a crop of Grapes at Longleat as you may see at Clovenfords now, and if you don’t go we shall know the reason why.” To be told that I should “ deserve thrashing ” if I did not go to one place and to be adjudged a coward if I did not go to the other was not quite pleasant, so I resolved to visit both. Of Clovenfords I had intended saying something long since, but opposing circumstances have been too powerful, and it has happened that, though Drumlanrig was visited last, it falls to be noticed first. Considering its magnitude and commanding impor¬ tance from a gardening point of view, this notice will be very brief — a few jottings from memory of the prominent features. Soon after leaving Thornhill station the Castle is seen standing in solitary grandeur on a spur in the bosom of a wildly beautiful valley surrounded with majestic hills. Viewed from a distance it is a picture of loneliness, and if old records express the truth this isolation was the means of its first owner uttering a more curious than terrible invocation, which might only have been meant to alarm the builders, but is capable of wider application. It has, however, no deterrent effect on visitors, who appear to have ready access, not even a gate from the main thoroughfares opposing the way. But to this curious invocation. It is thus embodied m an old gazetteer : — “ This great pile occupied ten years in building, and was finished in 1689, the year after the revolution. William I., Duke of Queensberry, celebrated in civil his'.ory as a statesman, and in the annals of the Covenanters as an abettor of persecution, planned and completed it, and he expended upon it such enormous sums of money, and during the only night of his residing within its walls was so exacerbated by the inaccessibility of medical ad¬ vice to relieve him from a temporary fit of illness, that he aban¬ doned it in disgust, and afterwards, in the unpolished language of the period, wrote upon the artificers’ bills for erecting it — 1 The deil pike out his een that looks herein.’ Drumlanrig Castle was the principal residence of the family of Queensberry, but on the death of Charles, the third Duke, in 1777, without male issue, it passed along with the Queensberry titles to William, Earl of March, and upon the death of the latter in 1810 it went by entail to the Duke of Buccleuch.” So much historically for this huge square pile and noble patrimony of some 250,000 acres, practically un¬ fenced, all being open, grand, and free. From the gardens, some fifty acres of pleasure grounds, and a paddock or two the deer are excluded, but that appears to be all in the way of restriction on thi great demesne. Yet in this wildness there is comfort for the Duke’s dependants, excellent dwellings being provided for all.. Typical of these is the gardener’s house (fig. 47), which is represented as a model of its kind ; and no one more hospitable is to be found than the accomplished gardener who has for so long dwelt there — Mr. David Thomson, the cordial welcome he extends to visitors being proverbial. This pretty cottage stands on the steep hill side of a lofty range that extends along the west side of the garden and dressed grounds, a commanding, almost a bird’s-eye view, being had of the former from the windows and terrace. At our feet is the herbaceous garden, gay with a variety of flowers in summer and rendered cheerful by neat shrubs in winter. On the right, forming the southern boundary of the garden, is the remarkable span-roofed fruit range exactly 498 feet in length without any division, and 18 feet wide. This house is as good as it is great, being neat in appearance, substantial, admirably adapted for its purpose, and excellently furnished with thriving trees of well- selected fruits. The trees are trained to wires 16 inches from the glass, and as viewed from the end this long tunnel-like arch has a remarkable appearance. The structure is, moreover, profit¬ able, as, being efficiently heated with 3000 feet of piping, heavy crops of fruit are insured, which could not be produced outdoors in this dull and wet locality. A broad cast-metal path runs down the centre of the house, and the side curbs act as metals for a railway waggon for conveying materials in and out of the house. The trees are planted in the side borders, and although they have only been there about four years they quite cover the trellises and bear heavy crops of splendid fruit — Figs, Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, and Pears. The Pears are mostly grown as cordons trained 2 feet apart, the others being fan-shaped. The Peaches consist chiefly of Dr. Hogg, Yiolette Hative, Stirling Castle, Sea Eagle, Bellegarde, Walburton Admirable, and Princess of Wales ; the Nectarines of Lord Napier, Elruge, Pitmaston Orange, Humboldt, Pine Apple, Prince of Wales, and Victoria. Thus a long succession of fruit of the first quality is provided ; and as in most cases a tree of each is planted on both sides of the house — north and south — the season of each is thus pro¬ longed. It is not necessary to dwell on the merits of all the varieties, as they are mostly well known ; but it may be stated that Lord Napier Nectarine is only really fine during a warm season — a hint that may be given to northern planters, and that Humboldt, judging by the splendid fruit and its high quality, ia not sufficiently known. Pine Apple was extremely fine, and the Sea Eagle Peach is esteemed as a late variety for its large size and excellent flavour. This imposing and most serviceable structure is one of the prominent features of this fine garden ; but there are other ranges of glass, and something in every house worthy of note. No pretence, however, will be made to particularise half of what was seen during a fine day in September. “ There is not so much glass at Drumlanrig as I expected to see,” observed a gardener, who evidently went with great ex¬ pectations, further remarking, “ there is a nice bit I grant, yet I looked for more, but the culture is first-rate.” Well, this “ nice bit ” of glass amounts to 51,000 superficial feet, 14,000 linear feet of piping being employed in heating. How many men are en¬ gaged in the houses I am not able to say ; but there are eighteen in the young gardeners’ rooms, the term “bothy” being quite inadequate to this excellent and very complete building. Every¬ thing appears to have been arranged for the comfort of the occu¬ pants — separate bedrooms, bath-room, &c. ; in fact, the building resembles a small barracks of the most approved construction, and, convenient to the fires, a huge subterranean chamber, con¬ taining large cruciform boilers (Meiklejohn’s Improved), for heat¬ ing the various structures, the smoke being conducted to a shaft half a mile away among the tree-clad hills. Parallel with the fruit range above noticed, forming the southern boundary of the walled kitchen garden, an enclosure of six acres, is a large, broad, and lofty lean-to range on the north side, of the same length as the other, and of course facing the seuth. In this range there was much demanding notice ; but the Black Ham¬ burgh house was the great centre of attraction. The crop was wonderful alike by the size of the bunches, ranging from 4 to 8 lbs., and the high finish of the berries. It is not too much to say — and I say it without hesitation, and in full consciousness that these notes will be read by some of the best judges of the matter — that fifty bunches of Black Hamburghs, and probably a hundred, could have been cut from this one house that would have sur¬ passed the best examples of the same kind that were staged at Edinburgh. Assuming that this assertion will not be contradicted, not another word is necessary to indicate that this was a splendid example of Grape culture. As evidence that I am not disposed to bestow indiscriminate and too fulsome praise on everything in this ducal establishment, I have next to say that many fitter crops of Muscats have been seen than in tha house adjoining, not that it was a bad crop, the bunches small and the berries faulty ; on the contrary, it was such as many gardeners would be proud to owd, but it was too near the Hamburghs to show to advantage. The soil would appear to be too cold and wet for Muscats ; at any rate they lacked the wonderful vigour of their black neighbours and of a Gros Colman in the Muscat house. The crop on this Vine was all that could be desired, and more than could have been expected a Vine could carry and finish so well, the rods being crowded with fine bunches and large berries covered with thick purple bloom. And what about the Duke ? A great part of the crop had been cut, but there was what may be termed a large sprinkling left — fine, regular, full bunches, with huge berries almost without spot or blemish. Wherever this, the most abused and most praised of Grapes may have failed, and failed it has in too many instances, it beyond doubt succeeds at Drumlanrig, and it cannot be seen and tasted as it is there produced without com¬ manding emphatic approval. It is, in truth, a magnificent Grape, and not a few who did not succeed in their first attempt at grow¬ ing it are now giving it another trial. I have more to say both about the Duke and Gros Colman in connection with their culture in the Tweed vineyards, and now pass on. A few Vines fruited in pots at Drumlanrig merit notice. They are grown for dinner-table decoration, and only on a table and in a room of more than ordinary size could such examples be appropriately placed. The Vines are grown in ordinary large pots ; but before starting the canes are drawn through 7-inch pots, which stand almost on the soil in the others, the surfaces of the smaller pots being covered with Selaginella. The smaller pots become filled with roots by the autumn ; the stem is severed from the original roots, the pot placed in a suitable receptacle, and the freshness of the Vine maintained as long as is needed. The canes of these Vines are not taken with a clean stem and twisted so as to form a hoop, from which the bunches depend. Such Vines are no doubt handsome, but here they are grown in the most natural manner possible, the cane being secured to a stake, and the laterals take their own course, being thinned and stopped at such distances as the cultivator deems best for attaining his object. When ready for table they are open pyramids about 5 feet high, and with a maximum diameter of about 2 feet. Each lateral bears a bunch of Grapes, and as there are eight or ten of them, fine, well- February 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 159 Fig. 47— The Gardener's house at Drumlanrig. variety in charge of Mr. Burbidge ? Perhaps he can tell us ; certain it is it far excels the species that is generally found in gardens. Not less attractive, but of a different type of beauty, is the elegant Dendrochilum filiforme, of which a hundred spikes are sometimes cut at once for room-decoration. Cypripediums Maulei, Sedeni, Dominii, caudatum, Boxalli, villosum, Lowii, Harrissianum, and others of this grand genus appear to grow like Agapanthuses — huge specimens with grand foliage, the sure pre¬ cursor of correspondingly grand flowers. Odontoglossums are most vigorous, O. Alexandra producing spikes like Asparagus shoots, two from each pseudo-bulb, some of the varieties being of great merit and of particular excellence. Cattleyas and Masdevallias are equally at home, thriving and prosperous. Anthuriums appear to receive special attention, and deserve it. A. Andreanum was growing vigorously in a 12-inch pot, and pro¬ ducing large spathes ; and of the varieties of Schertzerianum were Patersoni, Wardi, both fine, and Yerschaffelt’s or Knight’s variety with red stems and very rich spathes. These are plants of sterling worth, and we must travel far to find them in better condition. The fine-foliaged varieties are also represented — Warocqueanum, with leaves 4 to 5 feet long, Yeitchii similar, and crystallinum in superb colour. Nepenthes grow as if in their native wilds, and we must leave them to luxuriate. Crotons, too, can only be mentioned— a fine collection of huge plants of the leading kinds ; but a small plant, because new. Thomsoni was very beautiful ; it was raised here, certificated at Edinburgh, and has a future before it both as an exhibition and home-decorative plant. The same may be said of Sir Garnet Wolseley, also raised here ; it is of the trilobed or Disraeli type, and was singularly glowing in colour, but has not yet been certificated. And now we leave the houses and all their contents, pass a forest of Phloxes old and young, a young plautation mixed with Gladioli having a beautiful effect, and take a rapid walk across the flower garden. Crossing a burn or small river which has dashed for centuries along its rugged bed, the great expanse of lawn, pleasingly diver¬ sified with trees and shrubs, spreads out before us — the grass as smooth as velvet, the walks in perfect order, and great masses of flowers in the distant beds, and we reach the old terrace wall 6tudded with Trichomanes, in places ablaze with the Flame Tropseolum (T. speciosum). In one place is trained a Maidenhair coloured fruit, and as all are visible, their effect, mingled with the tinted foliage in autumn as represented on the table spread for a shooting party, cannot fail being imposing. Now to the Pines. The above-quoted verdict of one of the fruit judges at the Edinburgh Show — namely, “ the Black Ham- burghs are grand, but the Pines magnificent,” must be sustained. The house of plants as seen just on the eve of the fruits ripening will not soon be forgotten by those who had the pleasure of witnessing it. Plants dwarf and sturdy, fruits large and regular, crowns neat and even, were the characteristics of this remarkable collection. Large plants with fine fruit I always know where to find, and large plants with small fruit are too plentiful ; but such small plants with such large fruit as those under notice I venture to say have rarely, if ever, been seen. Scores of fruits of the Smooth-leaved Cayenne must have approached 8 fibs, in weight, and the base of not a few of these were only 9 inches from the surface of the pots. Charlotte Rothschilds were equally fine, and Hunter’s Lady Beatrice, a taller grower, was perfecting magnificent fruit. This variety is highly esteemed at Drumlanrig, not only for its noble appearance, but equally so for its superior quality, and quite a large stock has already been raised. Long ranges of pits are filled with succession plants and suckers, and here again the dwarf habit cannot but be recognised. Evidently the high temperature and steaming process is not practised here, as nothing but what may be termed a medium temperature, with all the light and air possible, could have produced such results — small, thick, crisp leaves and huge well-fed fruits. These Pines were mostly fruiting in 10 and 11-inch pots, none larger, and pro¬ bably not more than eighteen months had elapsed since they were inserted as suckers. I am tempted to linger over this masterly example of Pine-growing, but must take a cursory glance of some other departments of this fine garden. Passing Palms, Ferns, and hardwooded plants, all well and largely grown, we pause at the Orchids, as who could help pausing at upwards of twenty plants of the Dalkeith variety of Vanda tricolor, ranging from 3 to 4 feet high, with V. suavis in tubs five or six plants grouped together, all growing luxuriantly. A gigantic form of Zygopetalum Mackayi, with stems and flowers twice the size of the ordinary kind and more distinctly marked, commanded attention. Is this the Trinity College Botanic Garden 160 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 22, 1883. Tree (Salisburia adiantifolia), another a Magnolia, and so on ; but more curious is the effect of Rubuses and Laurustinuses that have sprung as seedlings out of the wall 10 feet from the ground, and now, as trained to the wall, they appear as if stuck on the face of the masonry. On the top of this terrace is the great gravel pro¬ menade and another garden of Phloxes and hardy plants, and on a still higher terrace stands the Castle. The view from this standpoint across the grounds below — the striking sand and Heath garden near — the bright flower beds, Violas, Tuberous Begonias, and other telling masses further distant, and the heavily wooded wilderness heights beyond — is beautiful in the extreme, and tempts us to linger and admire a scene that cannot be adequately described. We now climb the opposite tree-clad range by twisting walks, reach the grassy drives, of which there are 45 miles — soft silent carriage drives through the woods, kept like lawns — and meander along the ridge, with the beautiful Nithsdale spread below us, the river gliding through the green pastures and losing itself in the distant mountain passes, we arrive again at the point from which we started — the pretty cottage on the steep hillside, rest, refresh, step into Mr. Thomson’s wagonette, and leave (there was quite a little party), I fear reluctantly, a place which, both by its magni¬ tude, diversified character, and high keeping, has few equals in this country. — J. Weight. GARDENERS AS SERVANTS. The following decision in reference to the liability of employers to be taxed for gardeners and garden workmen was recently given in the Times : — “ At Marylebone, Captain Aubrey Lisle Patton, of Alpha House, Alpha Road, St. John’s Wood, was summoned for keeping a male servant without a license. Mr. Powell appeared to support the summons. Michael Jamieson, an officer of Excise, said on August 23rd last he saw a man, apparently a gardener, working in a green¬ house on the defendant’s premises. The witness subsequently called on the defendant and spoke to him on the subject. He said he claimed exemption as the man did not live in the house ; he was only a common day labourer, not a servant. The defendant said he employed several men, and urged that in this case it could not be held that the man was a servant within the meaning of the Act. Two of the men employed by the defendant were called, and it was shown that they were engaged by the day, and received their money weekly. They" were not regularly engaged every day, and when employed at odd times ttfey were paid by the hour. Mr. Cooke said the matter was one of great importance, and the point had not yet been decided. The fifth clause of the 39th Vic., cap. 16, was espe¬ cially enacted to meet the case of youths and men who were partially employed in different gentlemen’s houses during the day. That, in his opinion, settled the point, though it did, no doubt, inflict great hardship in certain cases. He should decide that when a person was employed for the whole day he did absolutely become a servant of the person employing him. He had no doubt as to the accuracy of Captain Patton’s statement with regard to his men, but he must hold that the man referred to was a servant within the meaning of the Act. He should inflict a nominal penalty only of 5s. Captain Patton asked how many of his men he was to put down on the schedule, as he had as many as sixteen employed at one time. Mr. Cooke said he thought under the Act each of them would have to be paid for if he was employed an entire day. He should not be sorry if his decision was appealed against.” [As we were somewhat surprised at this decision we have carefully looked up the statutes bearing upon the point at issue in so far as they concern gardeners, and we must say that we are entirely at a loss to see how the learned Magistrate arrived at his conclusion. The “Customs and Inland Revenue Act, 1869” (32 and 33 Vic., cap. 14) provides that a sum of 15s. for every male servant shall be paid annually upon licenses to be taken out under the provisions of the Act by the person who employs the servant. The Act defines a male servant — “ Any male servant employed either wholly or partially in any of the following capacities — that is to say ( inter alia), Gardener, under-gardener, or in any capacity involving the duties of any of the above descriptions of servants by whatever style the person acting in such capacity may be called.” The “ Customs and Inland Revenue Act, 1876 ” (39 Vic., cap. 16) by Sect. 5 amended the first-mentioned Act as follows : “ The term male servant as used in the Act 32 and 33 Vic., cap. 14, shall not include a servant who being bond fide employed in any capacity other than the capacities specified or referred to in pro¬ vision No. 3 of Sect. 19 of the said Act” (the part of the Act from which we have quoted) “ is occasionally or partially employed in any of the said capacities so specified or referred to, and shall not include a person who has been bona fide engaged to serve his employer for a portion only of each day, and does not reside in his employer’s house.” The learned Magistrate stated that the fifth clause of 39 Vic., cap. 16, was specially enacted to meet the case of youths and men who were partially employed in different gentlemen’s houses during the day ; that, in his opinion, settled the point. It may be that the latter portion of the section was enacted with this object, but the first part of the section seems to us to have been rather enacted with a view to meet such cases as that actually before the Magistrate — namely, those in which labourers or others habitually employed by a person were occasionally employed in the capacity of gardener, under-gardener, or some other capacity named in the original Act. It also seems to us that the duty imposed, being an annual one, indicates that it is only intended to be imposed in cases where the male servant, gardener, or otherwise is regularly employed, and that the mere hiring of an additional man to assist in the garden for a week or a month would not come within the spirit of the Act. In any case the matter seems to us to be one which should be settled one way or the other, and we trust Captain Patton will appeal from the decision of the Magistrate.] PHLOXES FOR LATE FLOWERING. Now is the time to divide and replant Phloxes for late flower¬ ing. The division of this flower has fallen into disrepute, and propagation by cuttings takes the place of the more simple though perhaps less scientific system of increase. I have tried both ways, and for garden decoration, or perhaps for any other pur¬ pose, plants from division I find are quite as good as those from cuttings. I have always strong plants to propagate from, two years being the longest period they remain in one place ; but I conceive if good cultivation is allowed, there is not much fear of the results. Our plan is to lift the old plants which the preceding season had about five strong shoots ; the stools are broken up, one strong growth having as a rule sufficient young shoots at its base to make a good plant. Above everything the plants like rich soil. Given that, and planted now with due care throughout the summer as regards routine work, and a display of this lovely autumn flower three or four weeks later than ordinary plants will be produced. — R. P. NOTES FROM MY GARDEN IN 1882.— No. 2. AURICULAS. After some years of vexation and disappointment in the culti¬ vation of what I must look upon as my first love in horticulture, the beautiful and refined Auricula, I am at last beginning to “ see daylight,” not that my collection is what it was or what I would wish it to be ; but it does not present that woe-begone appearance it did two or three years ago, and I hope, if nothing unforeseen occurs, to have enjoyment out of it this season. I have still the woolly aphis, but not in any way like what I had ; and while I cannot for one moment agree with those who think that is not injurious to the plants, still less with those who consider it positively beneficial, I am inclined to agree with those growers who do not think it so hurtful as was once supposed. I re¬ member Mr. Horner’s graphic description of the Auricula in¬ fested by it some years ago, but where it comes to that I imagine there is something else than the aphis at work. It has produced, probably, a weakness in the plant which has made it susceptible to other adverse influences ; but where it has been detected and has not been allowed to go undisturbed, there its injurious effects are not so great. One of the most amusing things connected with its history is that a writer in a contemporary actually made the assertion that it was beneficial to the plants, and brought forward the authority of some of the Yorkshire growers, who told him that they had never had their plants healthy until they got it amongst them ! I imagine his informant must have been “ coming Yorkshire o’er him,” and quietly winked to himself when he was imparting the information to a “ soft southerner.” I do not see how we are to get quite rid of it, for I find it, or something which looks very like it, on the roots of Lettuces, Sow Thistles, and other plants in my garden. Fir-tree oil decidedly finishes it for the time and does not injure the root or foliage of the plants. Amongst other experiments, I tried last year the planting of a number out in a frame. The frame was half filled with broken brickbats, pots, &e., and then a few inches of good loam placed on the top without any admixture whatever. The plants were planted in it about 5 inches apart and left until the autumn exposed to all weathers. The frame being in a north aspect, in October the light was put on and air given on all suitable occa¬ sions, and now in February I find the plants looking healthy and well. A few have vanished, but it has been from some of that horrible plague of snails and slugs which I have experienced like many others, and which this wet and mild winter has so greatly encouraged, and as the frame stood under a hedge it was more liable to invasion. Walled gardens possess an advantage both in this way and in the matter of weeds. No matter how clear I might keep my garden, the hedges and ditches around me are full of weeds, and they easily scatter themselves in mine and my neighbours’ gardens and come up in all unlooked-for situations. .February 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 161 I am now just stirring the surface, and shall leave the plants there at any rate until potting time, when I may perhaps take them up and pot them, putting in their place a fresh supply of younger plants. Of course leaving them in this way exposed in the summer is very different to leaving them in pots exposed to all weathers, for then a stoppage of drainage or a soddened condition of soil is sure to tell injuriously on the plants. Even although they may for a time look healthy, like the brilliant colour of a consumptive patient it is the sure presage of decay. I have not during the past season removed my plants from the position they have had since May last under a hedge facing north. There seem to me several advantages in this. It is a great saving of trouble — no small matter where one has to look after them oneself. Then, as most of our heavy rains come from the S.W., from which wind the frames are sheltered by the hedge, there is not so great a likelihood of the rain beating into the frames or of drip, while it is much more easy to give air in windy weather. I have one frame of Picotees facing south, and during one of our late severe gales the light was lifted clean off and deposited on a bed of Tea Roses without, strange to say, breaking one pane of glass, but considerably damaging the heads of the Rose plants. In the more sheltered position of the Auricula frames this would not have happened. Moreover, I think that the plants are kept in a more equable condition, as when exposed to the south warm sunny days are apt to in some way stimulate them, and they require much more watering than when left in a place where they are not so exposed to being dried out. This unfrequent watering is facilitated by the use of the glazed pots, against which there was an outcry as being subversive of all the theories about porous pots, and it was said that it would be useless to grow them in such hermetically sealed receptacles. I can testify that they grow well in them, that the plants do not require nearly as much water, while no green matter accumulates on their outsides ; while the contrast between the dark colour of the pot, and the mealy foliage of some kinds and the bright green of others, is very pleasing to the eye, and this particularly struck me when looking at the fine collection of my late friend Mr. Woodhead, who used nothing else. By-the-by, I noticed lately that Mr. Thomson, the accomplished gardener at Drumlanrig, stated that he used nothing else in his Orchid house (I think it was) : we shall therefore probably hear no more of the unscientific character of such a proceeding, and, as far as my present experi¬ ence goes, I should like to have all my collection in glazed pots. In the matter of top-dressing I must confess to having made a change from the old-established traditions of former days. We used to be told to take out as much as we could of the old com¬ post and fill it in with fresh ; but when I find so experienced a grower as Mr. B. Simonite questioning the desirability of top- dressing at all, and saying that at any rate he should only remove just the very surface, that the roots proceeding from the neck never care to root into the fresh material, it was time to think of altering “the rules of procedure,” and I do not think that I have had any cause to regret having done so. Here again will be a great saving of trouble. I believe that instead of, as the older growers used to advise, putting richer compost, it is better to use more loam and less manure than in that in which they were potted. I have been greatly puzzled by the manner in which Heap’s Smiling Beauty has deceived me. The plants I had have grown smaller, and this is, I find, the case with some others. Now this opens up a question which I should like to have ventilated in a quiet and reasonable manner — whether there is such a thing as strains in Auriculas ; whether from some cause or another certain persons obtain a decidedly better strain of some varieties than of others. Where, for instance, did the green-edged variety of Oliver’s Lovely Ann originate ? It came out as a grey edge, and is most frequently seen in that class, but as a grey it is not com¬ parable to the green-edged variety. Then is there not something peculiar in the strain of Lightbody’s Richard Headly which my friend Mr. Tymons possesses? I believe at any rate he is forced to consider that there is, from the number of applications for plants that he has had. Then, again, the strain of (Jol. Taylor, held by Mr. Wilson of Halifax, seems to be superior to most others. I myself had a strain of an old, and indeed indifferent, flower — Popplewell’s Conqueror, which was far superior to any¬ thing I had seen elsewhere, and at times really gave a respectable exhibition truss. Mr. Simonite has, he believes, a peculiarly fine 6train of George Lightbody ; while I have beard another grower complain of its doing badly with him, as if he had an inferior strain. Next to the pleasure of looking at our own collection is that of looking at others. This pleasure I have had twice lately in seeing Mr. Simonite’s at Sheffield, extensive and excellent, with all its treasure of seedlings, and that of my friend Mr. Robins of St. John’s near Lewisham. This is remarkable for the large number of varieties grown — 160, and as one of the few cases in which the love of the flower has appeared in the metropolis. His collection looked in excellent health. The plants were all in small-sized pots and gave promise of future excellence. There was, unhappily, a cloud hanging over them, for Mr. Robins expected to have to leave them shortly for a little trip to Vancouver’s Island, and would consequently not be here to see them in flower. To a lover of the Auricula this is a great trial, but “ business is business,” and to it Auriculas even must give way ; but his small back garden is now very interesting, and shows that where there is a real love of the flower it can be cultivated, and well cultivated, even in the midst of a densely crowded neighbourhood. — D., Deal. VINES IN LIME RUBBISH. Provoked by my brown Hamburghs and the timber and crops of the Tweed Vineyard, and your and Mr. Thomson’s advice, I must try to surprise you. In 1862, when building my house here on 1000 feet of mere gravel, with 2 feet of light soil above, I ran a pit due south from it 90 by 16 feet, avd 6 feet deep, for a vinery, span-roof. I filled up, say, 2 or 3 feet at the bottom with stones and foundry rubbish that would defy water to trouble the roots above them. To level this quarry the mason removed all his freestone chips and lime rubbish, and spread them over it, and then I laid in the best soil I could get and planted my Vines. Now 1 have dug out all the original soil to replace it with imported strong soil and old turf that would delight any Grape-grower, running a trench in the centre of the house down to the bottom rubbish, and carefully disentangling all the Vine roots for their new soil. We were astonished to find few roots in what we considered our best soil near the surface ; but by-and-by we cut through about 4 inches thick of lime and freestone chips about 3 feet from the surface, and I am sure had any gardener seen how all but the whole Vine roots were packed into and protruded from this layer of lime rubbish — standing out from it like a brush into the central cut through the vinery bed — he, like us, would have “ sucked the finger of astonishment.” All these twenty years gardeners had wasted their brains and backs mixing up in the Vine borders (all the roots are inside) everything imaginable — bone dust, soot, and sewage — to coax the Vine roots to near the surface, and now these ungrateful wretches have dived down through all our tasty and superior soils and been living in that layer of lime rubbish ! Now we regretted not having a photo made of the brush protruding through the lime. Seeing is often the only proof of a story. However, we have got from a burned- down house many cartloads of apparently exactly the same lime and chip-stoned rubbish that my Vines loved so dearly, and mixed it freely with the heaps of old turf and grand strong loam, and if the roots do not soon revel in this I shall call them ungrateful. Long ago I led a branch of a Hamburgh from the vinery into the adjoining conservatory as a roof shade for my flowers ; and though you may forget your explanations why my Hamburghs in the conservatory were blue-black and their brothers with only glass between them were whitey-brown in the vinery ; and while the roots of the conservatory Vine are being relaid in the vinery, and only a heat of 40° or so kept in the conservatory, the Vines there have shoots 3 and 4 inches long to-day to our amazement, whatever Vine doctors like you may think of such proceedings. I do not believe one Vine root has moved as yet. “ Now to grow Vines without roots,” is the Vine sap so condensed in the old stems that there is enough of it to send out the shoots 3 or 4 inches long ere the roots are of the least use as feeders ? It is all bother¬ ation to your old attache. — J. Mackenzie, M.D. [Vines usually produce more than 3 or 4 inches of growth before root-action commences.] WORK.F01lTHEWEEK,. <3 Will t v W7 — \By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments.'] HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. Protection. — The fickleness of our climate ought to induce more attention to protection of the trees in early spring than has hitherto been given to it. High walls, fences, and belts of trees do much, but cold north-eastern winds swoop over them upon every 162 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 22, ws. detached tree in the open squares, and destroy the blossom so fre¬ quently, that a really abundant fruit crop is an exception. Stand¬ ards and other unpruned trees must be left exposed to this risk of failure, but closely pruned bushes, pyramids, and espaliers should be protected by every means in our power. Now is the time to prepare for this important work, and there are few gardens with¬ out some materials for rough-and-ready shelter. For espaliers there is nothing better than thatched hurdles. Straw, rushes, heather, green Broom, branches of Box or Yew — all or any of them answering for “ thatch,” provided the thatching is well done. Pack the material used so thickly upon the hurdle that wind can¬ not blow through it, and take especial care to fasten it securely by means of bean stakes or thatching rods laid upon it and tied to the hurdles. Buds are already swelling, and protection will probably be required early this year. Put a row of thatched hurdles upright, with the lower ends thrust into the soil, a foot from the trees on the north or east side ; put another row of hurdles upon them, leaning forward sufficiently to project over the tops of the espaliers, fastening the top hurdle securely to the lower one with string, and supporting the top with poles driven into the ground in front of the espaliers, and you will thus give shelter from frost, and break the force of the wind sufficiently to save the blossom from injury. Diagonal cordons out in the open can also be protected by this means, and a single row of hurdles driven into the ground aslant and fastened to stakes will suffice for the lower horizontal cordons. Dwarf bushes and pyramids should have a skeleton framework of poles driven into the ground and tied together at the tops for a Fig. 48. covering of mats on the cold north and east sides, or any other contrivance with materials ready to our hands. In thus advising an elaborate use of every means of protection, in fairness to gardeners it should be mentioned that it will involve much extra labour at a busy season of the year, and where there are many trees extra assistance should be allowed. FRUIT-FORCING. Pcaclics and Nectarines. — Disbudding in the early house should be completed by the time the fruit commences swelling freely, but if this has been delayed it must at once have attention. As a rule the gross foreright shoots should be removed first, as otherwise they would rob the weak ones formed at the base of the bearing wood and intended to give next year’s supply of fruit. Disbudding, if deferred until the fruit commences swelling, must be done very gradually, taking off a few shoots daily, together with any small fruit at the under side of the trellis, or otherwise badly placed for receiving light and air. A little stimulus may now be given weakly trees by mulching with short sweetened horse manure, and occasional dampings of the borders and paths with liquid manure. Syringe twice a day. Trees in the house started early in the year will have set their fruit, and when this is completed syringing must be commenced, and they must be disbudded as advised for the earliest trees. In the earliest house maintain a temperature of 55° to 60° at night, 5° more by day, rising to 80° from sun heat with a free circulation of air, and close at 70° with a copious syringing. The trees in succession houses are coming strongly into bloom, and where this is abundant a portion of it should be removed by drawing the hand the reverse way of the growth on the under side of the trellis. Attention where it is considered necessary must be given to fertilisation. Although it is inadvisable in most cases to syringe the trees when in flower, yet the borders, floors, and walls should be damped two or three times a day, except when the weather is very wet. Late houses should be well venti¬ lated, every means for retarding the blooming being adopted. Water the borders thoroughly. Pines. — For the plants in pots soil will need to be prepared in quantity, as during this and subsequent months the plants that have been wintered in small pots must be transferred to a larger size. Plants in 7 or 8-inch pots should be shifted into pots 10 or 11 inches in diameter for Queens, and 11 or 12 inches in diameter for the more robust-growing kinds. As the operation must be carried out without much further postponement, a sufficient quan¬ tity of materials should be housed at once, in order that it may become drier, reducing the sods to pieces about 2 inches square, discarding the small and retaining the fibrous portion only. In potting ram the soil firmly around the old balls of soil, water at once thoroughly, and replunge into a brisk bottom heat of 90° to 95°, keeping the top heat at 60° at night and 65° by day from fire heat, and 70° to 80° from sun heat, it not being desirable to encourage top growth until external conditions are more favourable. Make provision for potting the suckers which are to be started next month, and, if space will admit, it is advis¬ able to keep them on the stools until they are wanted for starting. In the fruiting department early plants will be rapidly approach¬ ing the flowering period, and should be wetted as little as possible, as the sun has not sufficient power at this season to evaporate the moisture which settles at the base of the flower, and is the cause of the discolouration which exists too frequently at the base of the pips, spoiling the appearance of the fruit. Maintain a steady temperature of 70° at night, 75° to 80° by day, and 80° to 90° from sun heat. Ventilate at 80°, and close with moderate moisture at 85° to 90°. Figs.— Continue the treatment recommended for early trees in pots, avoiding a high night temperature until the days are longer and brighter, when all that is now apparently lost will be gained by the increased vigour of the trees and rapid advancement of the fruit by judicious management in early closing with plenty of sun heat and moisture. If the roots fill up the space left for watering, place a rim of lead inside the pots about 3 inches deep, and fill this with rich mulching. Syringe twice a day in fine weather, but moisten the paths, walls, and surface of the bed only when dull, as it is important the foliage be dry before nightfall. Stop gross shoots a few at a time, following as far as space admits the extension principle, and remove a few of the badly placed fruits if too thickly set, as will be the case with well-managed trees in pots allowed to rest early in the autumn. Continue the temperature at 55° to 60°, mulching and watering freely as a means of keeping the roots near the surface, and so securing the fertility of the trees. Complete the pruning of trees in the latest houses, the shoots being regularly thinned and trained over a trellis 16 to 18 inches from the glass, and when the bearing wood reaches the extremity of the trellis it should be cut away to make room for the most promising successional shoots, which produce an abundance of young fruits on ripe wood ready for development injhe spring. PLANT HOUSES. Stove. — Ixoras, Francisceas, Tabernmmontanas, and other similar evergreen plants will now need attention, and should be repotted if they require it. They will flourish well in peat, loam, or a mixture of both, but the former with a good quantity of coarse silver sand is preferable, as it does not become sour so quickly as loam or a mixture of both, which is a decided advan¬ tage in the cultivation of these plants. In potting the roots of the old balls must not be disturbed, merely removing the crocks from amongst the roots at the base and the loose soil from the surface of the ball. No attempt should be made to liberate the roots with a pointed stick, as they are often much injured in that way. Press the new soil firmly into the pots round the old balls, and there need be no fear of the roots entering freely into the fresh soil. The old balls before potting should be moist, so that no water will be needed at the roots if liberally syringed for at least a week after completing the operation, which will give the roots a chance of recovering from the injury received in potting. These plants will bear hard cutting back if they have become straggling. The Ixoras should be pruned and allowed to start again before repotting. The other two can be potted and then cut back after flowering, by which time they will be well established in the new soil. Cuttings of Ixoras and Tabernmmontanas will now root freely if inserted in small pots and placed under a bellglass in brisk heat or in the propagating frame. The first-named are invaluable for decorative purposes in small pots, bearing one or two fine trusses of flower. Francisceas root freely when the young wood is employed for cuttings, taken off with a small heel after flowering. Anthurium Schertzerianum that has been resting in a tempera¬ ture of 50° to 55° can now be brought into the stove, and will quickly start into growth and produce its fine scarlet spathes. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. February 22, 1883. ] 163 This plant should be grown in quantity where the stove is required to be gay through the spring and early summer months, as it can be brought into flower at a time when the stove would otherwise be rather short of flowers. This is one of the best plants that can be grown for producing a long succession of flowers. It can be pushed forward, and delights in brisk moist heat while making its growth, or will bear retarding. When the roots commence advancing top-dressing or potting can be done, as this plant will not long continue healthy with sour soil about its roots. Every alternate year the whole of the compost should be removed from amongst its roots and renewed with fresh, using fibrous peat from which the small particles have been shaken, and sphagnum moss in equal parts, with the addition of charcoal and coarse silver sand. The pots or pans employed must be a little more than three parts filled with drainage, and the plants well elevated above the rim and surfaced with a good layer of sphagnum, which should be encouraged to grow. Greenhouse. — Show and Fancy Pelargoniums. The most for¬ ward batch of these plants, if required to come into flower as early as possible, should, if not already done, be placed in their flower¬ ing pots. The shoots must not be pinched again after this date, but staked so that they will not draw up weakly. Keep them near to the glass in a night temperature of 50°. After potting keep them close for ten days until they commence rooting into the new soil, and then ventilate liberally when favourable, and slightly at night also when the weather is mild. Succession batches should receive attention in the potting from time to time as they require it, and take out the points of the shoots when they have made about four joints. Keep these plants in a temperature of 45°, and give the same treatment after potting as advised for the early batch. Use a compost of rich fibry loam, a seventh of decayed manure, a little soot and sand. Press the soil firmly into the pots, which will cause a firm stocky growth and assist in keeping the plants dwarf, which in due time will produce abundance of bloom. Any of the old stock plants that have become leggy may have the cuttings taken from them and be thrown away. Cuttings inserted singly in small pots and placed on a shelf in a temperature of 603 will root freely. When rooted pinch out the point of the plants, place them in 5-inch pots, and valuable plants for late flowering will be produced. Water these plants carefully for some time after potting ; if kept too wet at the roots the foliage becomes spotted, and in consequence much injured. Supply the early batch with clear soot water when the pots are full of roots. Destroy aphides by fumigating with tobacco paper as soon as they appear. if is! -IE BEE-KEEPER: J - i • i • i • i • i • i - i • i • i • i - i • i - i - i • i • i • t - i • i • t • i *i • i • i • i-- i FEEDING BEES IN AUTUMN, SPUING, AND SUMMER. ( Continued from page 144.) Not only now, hut sometimes in the height of summer, feeding is obligatory. Every experienced bee-keeper can well remember seasons when swarms have starved to death in their hives during June and July. The swarm is hived and placed on its stand to shift for itself. A succession of wet days sets in, and the poor bees, left to their fate in an empty house, are found by the ignorant or careless owner a mass of corruption on the floor-board. Even during favourable seasons there are periods of great scarcity of food in most neighbourhoods, and if the bees are not fed during such seasons breeding will quite or nearly cease, and the hive will be going back just at the time when the accumulation of strength is most needed to be ready to take advantage of a succeeding honey harvest. Notably between the flowering of the fruit trees and the Clover harvest there is a dearth of food, and the man who wishes his bees to do their best will carefully feed them over that trying and depressing interval. A few pence spent on sugar, and a little extra trouble, are amply repaid by the honey stored by the bees hatched out during the two or three weeks of gentle feeding. In districts where Heather is expected the harvest will begin from the latter part of July to the middle of August, and with fine weather last until late in September. In the south the former date will hold, and in the north of England and in Scotland the latter period will be near the mark. Another season of dearth usually is experienced between the end of the hay harvest and the opening of the Heather flowers. This interval is in some districts filled by crops of other kinds and by the Lime trees, but often the bees find little food between the two great harvests mentioned. Here is another occasion for feeding ; and to the man who means to get as large a harvest of honey as his bees are capable of collecting for him, it is an occasion of obligatory feeding. So long as sufficient honey is in the hive to supply all the wants of the bees gentle stimulative feeding will suffice, or even the occasional uncapping with a sharp knife of a small portion of sealed stores. The bees in removing this uncapped treasure and re-storing it in another place cause that excitement in the hive which is neces¬ sary to induce the queen to continue laying. But it will be said by some, “ If you keep up such constant work in the hive the queen will soon wear out.” And such is truly the case. A queen must certainly have the power only to deposit a certain number of fertile eggs during her lifetime, and if we put on such high pressuro she must fulfil her life’s duties and complete her complement in a shorter period. For this reason queens should not be allowed to remain at the head of a colony much over two seasons. A hive should always be set apart, and that the best hive in the apiary, for supplying young queens, and these young queens should at favourable oppor¬ tunities be put in the place of queens advancing into their third year of work. There is one other case of obligatory feeding which must be noticed, and that is winter feeding. This, with proper management, should hardly ever be necessary, except through the effects of some accident. During a violent gale and snowstorm some years ago a bar-frame hive was completely overturned and buried under the snow. We dug it out, finding many bees killed, the frames in wild confusion, and the mass of bees huddled together under a comb at one corner of the hive. Little life was apparent, but they were brought into a well-warmed greenhouse, a new hive placed at their disposal, and their combs (at least those remaining whole) were cleaned and re -adjusted in the new hive. In a short time the mass showed the good effects of the warmth, and movement began. Warm food was first gently sprinkled over them, then when they got active given by the usual method through a feeding stage, and the stock was saved, a little thinned in numbers, but soon making up in the following spring for the loss. We only mention this as an example how to act in such an emergency, and accidents will happen in the best regulated apiary. Whenever food is absolutely required in winter it should be given warm and in a warm place. Our subject of feeding is not yet exhausted. We hope to call attention at a future time to the methods of preparing and giving other food than syrup as substitutes for the nitrogenous foods which bees require before they can rear brood. Water also is an import¬ ant requisite, and much bee life is often saved by the artificial administering of water to the bees. We wish that other evidence had been forthcoming from experienced bee-masters regarding autumn feeding. We know of many who are authorities on the subject who would hold the same ideas as we have attempted to explain. — P. H. P. BRITISH BEE-KEEPERS’ ASSOCIATION. The annual General Meeting of the members of this Association was held in the Board-room of the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, 105, Jermyn Street, on Thursday, 15th inst. There was a large attendance of members, the chair being taken by the Baroness Burdett Coutts, the President of the Association. In moving the adoption of the report and balance-sheet for the past year, her ladyship congratulated the members upon the success which had attended their efforts to promote and extend the know¬ ledge of bee-keeping throughout the United Kingdom. She con¬ sidered great thanks were due to the Committee, and more especially to the Honorary Secretary, for their labours to make bee-keeping a great national industry. Votes of thanks were accorded to the retiring officers, and the fol¬ lowing were re-elected for the ensuing year — viz., President, the Baroness Burdett-Coutts ; Treasurer, W. 0. B. Glennie, Esq. ; Auditor, W. A. Kirchner, Esq. ; Librarian, Mr. G. Henderson ; Honorary Secretary, Rev. Herbert R. Peel. In returning thanks for his re-election, the Honorary Secretary called attention to the benefits which could be derived from the establishment of a Bee-keeper’s Club in some central part of London, where meetings might be held, and the Association’s library be deposited. A large increase in the present amount of subscriptions must, however, take place before this project could be realised. The acting Committee of the Association is elected annually by voting papers. The following gentlemen have been elected for the ensuing year : — viz., Rev. E. Bartrum, Hon. and Rev. H. Bligh, Capt. C. D. Campbell, Thos. W. Cowan, Esq., J. M. Hooker, Esq., H. Jonas, Esq., Rev. G. Raynor, Rev. F. T. Scott, D. Stewart, Esq. The Secretary reported that communications had been made with the several railway7 companies for the purpose of obtaining a reduc¬ tion in the rates charged for goods and for exhibitors’ fares to and from the various county bse and honey shows held annually through¬ out the United Kingdom, and announced that the matter would be taken into consideration at a conference of the managers of the several railway companies to be held in April next. An animated discussion ensued upon the following motion, proposed 164 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 22, 1883. by the Rev. W. E. Burkitt (Wilts), and seconded by Capt. Campbell (Surrey) : — “ That it is desirable for the British Bee-keepers' Association to publish a 1 Penny Guide ’ to the management of bees in straw skeps.” The motion, having been amended as follows, was passed unani¬ mously : — “ That it is desirable for the British Bee-keepers’ Associa¬ tion to publish small pamphlets to the management of bees for the special use of cottagers, including one on the most profitable use of straw skeps.” SMALL SECTIONS—BEST BEES. We are a great people, but, withal, a little eccentric ; and I think I never saw the latter characteristic crop out more prominently, at least in bee-keeping circles, than in the half-pound section business. Because two or three honey-producers, who believe in the grand principle of ever marching forward, and who like to experiment and indulge in novelties, put a few half-pound sections of honey in nice shape on the market, and found a good sale for it ; why, about half of the bee-keeping fraternity seem to have gotten half-pound section on the brain ! It is contrary to good judgment to expect the half-pound sections to ever become universally in demand ; for there are a few who always seem to think that acting ridiculously is the displaying of wisdom. The majority of honey-consumers will prefer to buy just as little wood as possible, at from 20 to 30 cents per lb. The Irishman said that he wanted just as much whisky as possible and as little quinine in his prescription as would make it legal. So the most of the honey-buyers will want as much honey as possible and as little wood for the money. In view of this fact I think the majority of bee-keepers had better stick to the 1 lb. and 2 lb. sections, for awhile yet at least. I know one that will at all events. I have looked on with very much interest in the discussion as to the merits of the different varieties of bees, that has been in¬ dulged in with so much ability and warmth by some of the apicul- tural gladiators in our country ; and the result of the discussion, to my mind, has been a complete routing of the three-band advocates. While the thorough-bred Italians with their beautiful yellow bands are, as a rule, very docile and always pleasing to the eye of one who loves the beautiful, I am fully persuaded that for honey¬ gathering the dark-coloured (or hybrids, if you please) are much superior, as a general thing, to the golden beauties. While this seems to be the experience of a majority of our experienced apiarists, it is most decidedly mine. That this is true I very much regret, for if there is anything that I love to look upon it is a colony of beautiful yellow bees. Now, while what I have said as to the superiority of the dark bees as honey-gatherers, I am much inclined to think there is a remedy for it, and that is in the selection of the good honey- gatherers from among the yellow bees as breeders, and the merciless beheading of every queen whose progeny prove to be indifferent workers. No difference if her bees have forty gold bands, let her go to the “ block,” unless the bees are good for business. I am quite certain that it is the in-breeding of the American Italians for bands instead of for workers that has wrought the mischief in the ranks of yellow bees. If the yellow bees are expected to keep abreast of their more homely and irascible neighbours as business iD sects they must be judiciously selected. There are good workers among the most beautiful yellow bees I know, and if the breeders of these would breed from nothing but such there would soon be less to say about the yellow bees being inferior to the dark as workers. The trouble has been, that if a queen-breeder of Italians had a golden queen whose progeny were a beautiful yellow, she was valued very highly, without re¬ ference to the business qualities of her bees at all. All this must be speedily changed if the golden-banded beauties are to hold a place in the affections of our best apiarists. Dr. F. A. Grove of Kirksville seems to have the right notion about keeping bees for profit. He keeps bees, poultry, a little other good stock, raises a little small fruit, and cultivates a good vegetable garden. I am quite certain this is better for the majority of bee¬ keepers than to keep bees alone. My advice to all beginners is, Go slowly, and learn as you go. He who rushes into a business up to his eyes, of which he knows comparatively nothing, is apt to get his profits all on the debtor side. — Dr. J. R. Baker (in American Bee Journal). TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Harkness Son, Bedale, Yorkshire. — Catalogue of Florists' Flowers. Cranston’s Nursery and Seed Company, King’s Acre, Hereford. — List of New Roses for 1883. Wrench ifc Sons, Ipswich. — Catalogue of Horticultural Buildiags and Heating Apparatus ( Illustrated ). *** All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post,, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Addresses (E. P. C. II.. Fiance). — If you write to Messrs. J. H. Wagner, Riga ; Damman & Co., Portici, Naples ; Besson & Son, Turin, you will probably obtain what you require. Seed of the shrubs last mentioned, we think, can be had from Vilmorin & Co., Paris. The Type of Apples ( R . B.). — Neither climate nor cultivation nor cross¬ fertilisation between varieties can change the type of a fruit, and to this rule the Apple is not an exception. Garden Map (E. D. B.). — We do not think there is any w'ork such as you describe published now, nor do we think such a compilation would be of sub¬ stantial value. It would be more fanciful than serviceable, and it is for that reason probably that it was not continued. Quassia Water and Soft Soap (IF. J. J.).— If you boil 4 ozs. of quassia chips for a quarter of an hour in a gallon of soft water, strain off the chips and add 2 ozs. of soft soap, and stir until it is dissolved, you will have a solution that will destroy the aphides on your Cucumber plants. You will do well, however, by timely syringing to prevent the attacks of the insects. Peach Trees Injured (IF. T., Kent).— Gal vanised wire is undoubtedly injurious to Beach trees, in smoky districts especially, and some kinds of (his wire are injurious to the growths anywhere. You will find the records of sorim experiments, and much that will interest you on this subject, in our issue of January 18th, 1881. If you do not possess that number it can be had post free from this office for 3 {3. Two or three coats of paint generally render the wire quite safe for use. Position for riower Beds (Amateur). — The position will be quite suitable for the flowers you name ; but whether you will produce “ first-class blooms ill size, form, and quality ” will depend entirely on the excellence of the varieties from which seed was saved, and the culture to which the plants are subjected. You will find mulching the soil in summer of great advantage, and a dressing of heavier compost, with manure, will also be requisite. Let the Asters and Verbenas have the coolest position, as neither of them thrives in sandy soil, and especially if the summer proves hot and dry. Messenger’s Valve for Hot-water Pipes (Inquirer).— We have not a USU<1 the valve to which you allude, but we 1 ** have no doubt it is good or it would not have been awarded a silver medal by the Royal Horticultural Society. It is described by the makers, Messrs. Messenger & Co. of Loughbo ough, as possessing the following advantages When open it gives a perfectly free water-way of the full bore of the pipe ; it can be closed easily against any pressure, and when closed is perfectly tight. The spindle and working parts are made of brass. By unscrewing four nuts the lid can be taken off, withdrawing the whole of the working parts, and a new rubber can be placed on the valve and the lid replaced without disturb¬ ing joints of the pipes. Repairs can be done in a very few minutes. It is direct-acting, and works with but little power. 9 his is also Fig. 49. made as a double valve, forming a syphon in the body when closed, and is then used for connecting two systems of heating, as the water will syphon through the valve when it is closed. Select Phloxes (F. J. B„ Coventry). — Several lists have been published since the time you name, including the following, but you appear to have over¬ looked them Twelve good e irly-flowering varieties are Pearl, Mrs. Hunter, Cicerone, Mrs.'Slianks, Vulcan. Marquis, Mrs. Morrison, Oberon. Mrs. McLellan, Mrs. Garrett, Mrs. Taylor, W. W. Platt. Good late-flowering varieties are Brilliant, Miss Wallace, Gladstone, David Thomson, Coccinea, Madame Bonneau, Madame Vender, Princess of Wales, Splendour, Virgo Maria, Walter Ware, York- and-Lancaster. If you happen to possess these varieties and will send us a list of what you have, we will name some others that you will find worth adding to your collection. John Downie Grape— Arnott’s Stove (II. A).— We have seen this Grape and tasted the fruit, but more experience is needed before the questions you ask can be satisfactorily answered. The variety is not yet in commerce. There is no method of heating so good as a boiler and hot-water pipes. An Aniott’s stove is serviceable for excluding frost, and its merits consist in its slow combustion and fireclay lining, which absorbs the heat from the fuel and diffuses it steadily and for a long time. Melon House (Reader).— If you place on the slabs an inch of gravel or ashes and cover with turves grass downwards before introducing the soil the bed wjlj answer quite well, provided you apply water sufficiently, yet judiciously, to keep the soil at the bottom of the bed moist. Your second question you have not made dear. Melons cannot be profitably grown during the winter, but with good management a second crop can be had from the same plants. If you cannot accomplish this we should grow the successional plants in pots plunged February 22, 1 8b 3 . ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 1G5 in the old beds, preparing the plant® in another house or frame so as to be strong and ready for placing in the fruiting pots immediately the first crop is removed. Any of the early varieties will answer, some persons preferring green, others scarlet-fleshed kinds. We are not at all certain we have comprehended you letter, which is very obscure, as in one part you say the crop cannot be cut, till August, and in another you ask how you can turn the house to good account in June. We often feel that if correspondents were to exercise the same care in asking questions that we do in answering them, they would obtain informa¬ tion that would be more useful. Insects in Mushroom Bed (B. T., Bradford). — It will be very difficult to destroy the insects in the bed without injuring the Mushrooms. You might try the effect of salt, dissolving from 1 to 2 ozs. in a gallon of tepid water and applying it to the bed. This, especially if the material is rather dry, will improve the Mushrooms and possibly destroy many of the insects. If this fails you might try the effects of quassia water, an ounce being boiled in a gallon of water for twenty minutes and poured on the bed between the Mushrooms, not on them, as it will turn them bitter. A small work on Mushrooms that will suit you is now ready for press and will shortly be published. Ventilating a Pine Stove (F. C.). — If you examine the roof you will probably find that the spaces between the panes of glass vary considerably. It may possibly, under the circumstances, be desirable to putty up a few of the laps, but we should not stop many of them. It will only be during very cold weather that you have a difficulty in maintaining the heat at the requisite figure, and a comparatively low temperature for a time when the pipes are hot will do no harm. It will not be necessary to open the front sashes at any time, except to prevent the temperature rising above 85°, and it would be very undesirable to open them at this season of the year. Various ( Inquisitive ). — When you allude to a circulator boiler we presume you allude to a boiler for heating a glass structure of some kind. If such a boiler leaks to any great extent it will obviously soon be inoperative. We have stopped leakages with a mixture of red lead and iron filings ; an iron cement can also be obtained at foundries and from some ironmongers that is useful for this purpose. There is no harm in allowing a bunch of Grapes on the leading shoot of a Vine, the rod of which reaches to within 3 feet of the top of the house, pro¬ vided the Vine is not overcropped. We do not know the name of the Apple that is known in Cheshire as the Long Keeper, perhaps some of our readers can supply the information. Grubs on Fruit Trees (IT. C., Stroud). — The two caterpillars you describe appear to be (1) that of the small ermine moth, Yponomeuta padella, (2) that of the winter moth, Cbeimatobia brumata. Little can be done, as you remark, with either species when the caterpillars have begun to form their webs except by actually picking them off — a tedious process. In the case of the worst of the two pests, the wdnter moth, it is found of benefit to search for the patches of green eggs, which are tolerably conspicuous upon the bark of fruit trees ; also there is advantage in drawing a line of some sticky mixture round the foot of trees, so that the moths cannot ascend in the wdnter to lay their eggs. This plan is commonly pursued in Germany, where the insect is very mis¬ chievous. The moths of the small ermine species, although small, are con¬ spicuous, and many of them may be destroyed by shaking trees or bushes into a sheet at the period of their emergence. See also notes on preventing insects on the first page of this Journal. A Strange Plant ( Saltbum ). — That a plant may be induced to grow in the way you suggest — namely, by burying the branches in the earth and having the roots in the air, is well known, but it is almost as unnatural for a plant to exist in such a position as it would be for you to stand upon your head when taking your meals, though if you are as tenacious of life as the plant mentioned yon might continue to exist for some time. Planting Roses (J. B.). — The most important matter to be attended to at this season of the year is to take care that the roots do not become dry by exposure to the air. There is no doubt the seedling Briar will succeed as well as any other stock on your strong soil. You may safely shorten the roots, removing all jagged or otherwise injured portions with a sharp knife ; and we do not think that removing half their length would injure them in the slightest, the tops to be closely pruned at the same time. By all means place some lighter soil round the roots ; this will greatly expedite the emission of fibres, and bone- meal would afford foed for the plants. As to the depth of planting, you do not afford us the requisite data for deciding the point. If the buds have been inserted quite close to the roots you can scarcely avoid covering the worked part, and in such a case we should have no hesitation in covering it ; while, on the other hand, we should not place the roots too deeply for the sake of covering the parts where the Rose is attached to the stock. As to its being fatal to Roses on seedling Briars planted so as to cover the union, we can only say we have had no evidence of this, but we have seen hundreds of plants so planted grow' satisfactorily. Vines too Luxuriant (E. T., Norfolk). — The portion of lateral simply enclosed in a letter was crushed almost to pulp, only a small portion of the bunch remaining uninjured. In all probability you placed the manure on the border rather too soon, and possibly it may have been too hot. Still we do not think much damage has been done, and by selecting the more sturdy bunches you will produce good Grapes. The one sent is not satisfactory ; but you say it is not one of the best, and ns we have seen many worse than this, we consider you have no real cause for alarm. The dull weather has not been favourable for early Vines, and several days of sun, which are certainly overdue, will work wonders. Thin out the laterals so that the leaves on those retained are fully exposed to the light, stopping at one or two leaves, according to space, beyond the bunches, removing all sublaterals promptly at the first leaf. This stopping should be done the moment you can handle the points of the shoots with your finger and thumb, and you ought to be able to put all the portions removed at once into your waistcoat pocket. Do not damp the house during dull weather, and open the top ventilators, even if only slightly, very early in the morning. When you remove the manure spread a mixture of fresh loam and lime on the border and make it quite nrm, as the soil is possibly too light as well as too rich. Half a peck of lime to a large barrowful of soil will not be too much. We are glad to hear you have profited so much by what you have read on Grape and Mushroom culture, and we wish you further success. Treatment of Tuberous Begonias (A. M.). — Presuming that the tubers were potted in a good compost of turfy loam, sand, leaf soil, and well- decayed manure, they can be now brought steadily forward in a temperature of about 55°. If the pots can be plunged it will be an advantage, as that will decrease the necessity for frequent supplies of water. In any case as the growth advances the soil must not be allowed to become dry, and if the pots are well drained there will be little danger of giving too much water in fine weather later in the season. Weak liquiu manure can be supplied at intervals previous to the expansion of the flowers, and if judiciously employed it will increase the vigour of the growth and the size of the flowers, also deepening the colours. A light position must be provided, and not too far from the glass, as it is important to secure a sturdy growth. Syringe lightly occasionally until the flowers expand, when it should be discontinued, and at all times be careful to avoid a superabundance of stagnant moisture either in the air or the soil. Ventilate freely as the weather becomes warmer, and shade slightly when the sun is very bright. No stopping or training will be needed if the plants are grown strongly, but a few stakes may be required by weaker growers, and also when preparing the plants for exhibition, so as to avoid injury in transit. The flowers, too, should then be carefully enveloped in soft tissue paper. Cucumbers and Melons in Pots ( R . H. R., Westmoreland).— Wa never saw Cucumbers grown better in pots than at Eastnor Castle, nor out of pots either in a less quantity of soil. The plants w'ere being prepared for winter, but the same method of culture with proportionately more water would answer equally well for summer culture. The soil was extremely rough. In its roughness indeed consisted its chief excellence. It was turf, no doubt, pared from g-ood soil, yet simply turf, and used just as it wras dug in large square junks. It is surprising how little of such soil is required to grow Cucumbers when it is rightly used. There overhead was a large trellis quite covered with shoots and foliage of the most satisfactory kind ; below a narrow ridge of turves, the roots protruding through them in all directions asking for another thin casing of the same sus¬ taining and enjoyable food. Periodical layers of turves, and liquid manure when the plants are heavily worked, are all the food required by Cucumbers. All they ask for is to have the turfy soil “ little and often,” and rough. In the next house, a succession house, the plants were in very large pots and the growth had nearly covered the trellis. The large pots are placed on a layer of “good stuff ” over the hot-water pipes. Roots are not only encouraged to the surface of the pots, but over them. They are enticed over them by rich rough food. Turves are then packed round the pots, water being regularly poured in, and down the roots will go to the heat, moisture, and food below, gathering sus¬ tenance as they descend their moist, warm, dark, rugged path, and liquid manure freely given do all that is needed. That is what Cucumbers like — aerated food. What they" do not like is a huge mass of close soil given all at once and done with. They do not like alternations of heat and cold, dry draughts and cold fogs, nor especially to be heavily cropped when young. Melons may have firmer soil. Temperature and pruning are the same whether the plants are grown in pots or beds. Soil for Vine Border ( Idem ). — You have done quite right in adding the lime, and you would in all probability further improve the soil if you could add some of a heavier nature, as we presume the land is light. Burning or charring a portion W'ould render it additionally fertile for Vines. Culture of Dipladenia Brearleyana ( C . B. B.). — The best compost for Dipladenias is a mixture of equal parts of peat and light turfy loam, with a small proportion of sand, leaf soil, and old well-decayed cow manure, thoroughly draining the pots, and if the loam is inclined to be heavy add a few small pieces of charcoal. During the spring and summer a temperature of 65° to 70° will be needed, with a still further rise to 80° in the afternoon when the sun is bright. At starting and afterwards the plants will be greatly assisted if they can be plunged in a bed having a bottom heat of 80°. During the winter — the resting period — a much lower temperature is required, about 60° to 66° being sufficient. Abundant moisture must be distributed about the house whilst the plants are growing, and frequent syringings will then be beneficial, but be careful in supply¬ ing water to the roots, never allowing the soil to become excessively wet, or the plants will suffer considerably. In winter scarcely any water will be needed. Thoroughly clean the shoots when training them and before growth is much advanced, and if that be wrell done there will be little difficulty in keeping them clean afterwards if they are liberally syringed. The Stephanotis will succeed with the above, and under similar treatment as regards temperature and moisture, though it will also grow and flower wTell in a temperature as low as 60°. It flowers in spring and summer, but by having a succession of plants introduced into heat at intervals of a month it can be had in flower all the year round. The supply of water should be reduced when the growth is matured, and during the winter very little will be required. Names of Plants (A Young Subscriber). — 1, Asplenium furcatum ; 2, Asple- nium dimidiatum ; 3, Polypodium pectinatum ; 4, Insufficient ; 5, Verbascum nigrum. 1C. Z.). — 1, Gymnogramma chteropbylla ; 2, G. calomelanos; 3, G. chrysophylla. ( W. R.). — 1, Tradescantia zebrina ; 2, Begonia manicata ; 3, Asplenium viviparum ; 4, Adiantum macrophyllum. (0. P.) . — 1, Odontoglossum A lexandrae ; 2, O. Pescatorei ; 3, Phalaenopsis Schilleriana. COVENT GARDEN MARKET— FEBRUARY 21ST. Trade quiet, with forced vegetables somewhat lower. Hothouse Grapes firm, good samples in advance. FRUIT. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d Apples . 1 sieve 2 0to7 0 Grapes . lb. 2 0 too 0 0 40 0 Lemons . case L0 0 20 0 Apricots . doz. 0 0 0 0 Melons . each 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 0 0 0 12 0 Oranges . 100 6 0 10 0 Currants, Black. . 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 ,, Red .... 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen i 0 2 0 Figs . dozen 0 0 0 0 dessert . dozen i 0 2 0 Filberts . tb. 0 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English tb. i 6 2 0 ioo tb . 0 0 0 0 Raspberries . lb. 0 0 0 0 Gooseberries .... 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .... lb. 0 0 0 0 VEGETABLES. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d 2 0 to 4 0 Lettuces . score 1 0 to 1 6 Asparagus, French bundle 25 0 30 0 Mushrooms . punnet i 0 1 6 Beans, Kidney ... . 100 2 0 0 0 Mustard* Cress . punnet 0 2 0 3 1 0 2 0 Onions . bushel 2 3 2 6 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 i 6 Parsley . doz. bunches 3 0 4 0 Brussels Sprouts.. 4 sieve 1 6 2 0 Parsnips . dozen 1 0 2 0 0 6 1 0 Peas . quart 0 0 0 0 Capsicums . 100 i 6 2 0 Potatoes . cwt. 6 0 7 e Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Kidney . cwt. 6 0 8 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 Radishes.... doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Celerv . bundle 1 6 2 0 Rhubarb . bundle 0 4 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Salsafy . bundle 1 0 0 0 Cucumbers . each 0 9 i 3 Scorzonera . bundle 1 6 0 8 1 0 2 0 Seakale . basket 1 0 2 0 0 3 0 0 Shallots . tb. 0 3 0 0 Garlic . lb. 0 6 0 0 Spinach . b ushel 3 0 0 0 2 0 0 Tomatoes . lb. i 6 2 0 Leeks . bunch 0 8 0 4 Turnips . bunch 0 S 0 8 166 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c February 22, i sss POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. INDICATIONS OF FERTILITY OR BARRENNESS OF SOILS. {Continued from page 147.) We seldom find a whole field of 20 acres without variations in the subsoil as well as the surface soil, but especially so in the case of gravel, sand, or clay. Chalk, however, is more uniform in the subsoil, but varying also like the others on the surface. The same may be said of stone and marl soils, for fre¬ quently we find that these subsoils of stone or marl are very different, not in colour alone, but in their mixed composition, and contain gravel, sand, or limestone particles. It is well known, and we clearly see in arable land, that the composite veins of soil each exert a peculiar influence on crops. On pastures, although the influence may still exist, the grass does not allow us to discern those differences which are so clearly seen in farm crops. It is therefore on pasture land chiefly where the novice will find the most difficulty in ascertaining the soil and its variations. If, however, there is a growth of timber such as exists in various districts, there is no better indication of the hidden subsoil than the kinds of timber which flourish most, upon which matter, however, we shall have to enlarge in another place, for these more properly come under notice as illustrated indications of subsoils generally. On irrigated pastures we find fewer indications of either fertility or the reverse ; nor is it so essential, because the flood water brings with it deposits every year with but little variation if the water is judiciously laid on and carefully regulated, so as to feed the surface with the deposits from the highlands. Still there are some peculiar features connected even with irrigated meadows, for if well cared for the greenness and abundance of the produce may be equal, yet the best subsoil will yield the sweetest and best herbage, making frequently 20s. per ton difference in the value of the hay produced. As an illustration of this, there is no more productive land as to quantity of hay grown than that produced on peaty soil when judiciously flooded with water from the hills. Still the best and most valuable irrigated produce when converted into hay is obtained from a good sound brown or grey loam when watered by springs and floods derived from the foot or base of the chalk hills wherever they may be found. We cannot leave our subject without referring to the extensive tracts of meadow lands, especially in certain enclosed districts where clay land predominates, for they are mostly composed of a peat soil for a considerable depth, and buried in these soils we have often seen the bodies or trunks of large trees. Although these and meadows consisting of peat subsoil are frequently much abused and neglected by the farmers, and therefore in an un¬ drained state yield grass of an inferior quality either for dairy cows or young cattle, yet in our practice we have known these peaty meadows brought into excellent condition by a surface¬ dressing of clean fine gravel fresh out of the pit, or any earthy matters obtained from the borders and ditches of fields, for we find that after being completely drained these are extremely productive, especially in dry seasons. On the chalk hills in various counties we find a considerable extent of poor pastures called downs. Although a large extent of them was broken up and converted into arable during the last fifty years, those remaining are for the most part of inferior soil, which cannot always be properly characterised in consequence of the general practice of feeding sheep on them so continuously that very little produce is obtained. Store sheep in a poor and hungry condition not only eat the grass produce as close as that eaten by rabbits on a warren, but they also eat out the crowns and buds of certain plants and grasses, which under better treat¬ ment would become useful pastures. As at present fed the in¬ dications represent barrenness only, and superficial observers call them the poorest of grass land. But under superior management we have met with downs in several of the southern counties where the surface has been dressed with kainit, and the sheep kept from continuous grazing, and only allowed to feed when a good bite of grass has been grown, and even then only within a fold moved daily, and then left until another good bite of grass had sprung up, have greatly improved. Under this management, especially if the animals get such food as cotton cake extra, the pasture will improve yearly, and the difference of the pasture in the latter case may greatly deceive an inexperienced observer as to the nature of the soil in comparison with that so badly cared for under constant feeding and depreciation without manure, more particularly when the sheep carry off by custom all they get on the downs to a deadfold every night on the cultivated land. When, however, the grass is folded off and the sheep well fed, and leave their droppings both night and day, the turf may be considered as in an improved condition, although the nature of the soil may be the same in both systems of management. The consideration of indications noticeable on cultivated soils now merits attention, and it opens up a wide field for observation and remark. But colour, although not entirely so, is one of the chief indications of barrenness, yet it embraces most all shades that can be mentioned, some of which are also indications of fertile land, frequently on account of the aid which is derived from the subsoil. However, barren soils are generally of a brown or black, but also of fox colour, fawn, pale red, and whitish yellow ; a deep yellow is also a certain indication of barrenness. Soils having the following colours and appearances are barren : — Thin chalk soil which is nearly white, diluvial soils which con¬ tain a dead white gravel near the surface, moors and bogs which are nearly black to a considerable depth if not well drained, and the same kind of soil with a white sand under it, or with white gravel near the surface ; soils principally composed of white silvery sand, white clay, blue clay, yellow clay, and pink clay. Most extraordinary exceptions, however, occur in the case of yellow clay formations, for on our property part of three fields of a yellow clay of a precisely similar appearance throughout all the fields which were inferior generally, yet the best parts were, in fact, so superior in production that the crops had been most abundant for a period of sixty years without the application of any manure during the whole time ; but especially so of Wheat, Clover, and Beans, the two latter having produced respectively on certain occasions three sacks per acre of Broad Clover seed, and twenty-eight sacks of Beans per acre, the last-named being the produce of the harvest of the year 1812 as harvested by our predecessors on the farm. We have known something very like this vouched for in different parts of the kingdom. Such ex¬ ceptional results are not to be discovered except by the actual produce, there being no indications beyond that of ordinary fer¬ tility in the appearance of the soils. Nor would chemistry aid us in ascertaining the value of such land as the three fields alluded to, except the most productive portions had first been discovered through cropping. Much land in this country, therefore, cannot, as a rule, be said to be properly estimated except under cultiva¬ tion, and the variations of crops under ordinary circumstances. Gravelly soils are barren in cases where a red scum rests on the surface of the water in the ditches of a ferruginous appear¬ ance, and shining bright like the bloom on a Plum or Peach. Such is the appearance of water in or near to bogs. In this case, however, it occurs through the iron ore, traces of which are fre¬ quently found in the dark red sort of concrete gravel in the sub¬ soil, and this will vary much in some localities, for we know fields adjoining each other the surface of both being a kind friable gravel, but it is the subsoil gives the character or value to this soil. For when the gravel is loose at the bottom as well as on the surface it is moderately productive. When, however, the subsoil is almost as hard as iron as we have frequently noticed it, land is comparatively barren, and will 6how the ferruginous scum in the adjoining ditches, because the soil is completely impervious. Such land as this is doubled in value by steam-cultivating the subsoil, because it allows water to percolate freely, instead of being, as previously, too wet in the winter and too dry in the summer, there being little or no capillary action in the subsoil. (To be continued.) February 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 167 WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — This has been seriously delayed for a long time. Even those who were intending to make up the deficiencies in the autumn seed-time by sowing spring Wheat have been quite unable to execute the work in a decent husbandlike form, as the rains have been so heavy and so constant, that even upon the driest soils the work has been badly done. As, however, a heavy seed time is best for spring Wheat, we will hope that the result may be better than the present appearances indicate. Preparation should now be made for seeding both Beans and Peas either separately or mixed, but the latter is the safest, for both are seldom attacked with the aphides (their great enemy) in the same season. The land will this year be very heavy indeed. This, however, does not signify for Beans if the work can be done, and there is a small drill made to be attached to the plough which will deposit the seed in the furrow ; otherwise we like the drill attached to a presser, so that the seed may fall into the grooves made by the rings of the presser at such distance apart as may be required. So much time has been lost, and this may still continue, in which case the carting of chalk or lime may be attended to, for on all our loamy soils there is a very serious deficiency of carbonate of lime in the soil generally ; therefore the drilling of screened chalk should be done instead of using ashes in the drill or otherwise in addition there. Twenty-five bushels of chalk per acre will save the root crop from clubbing of the roots. Lime, however, in the absence of chalk should be used, and brought to the farm at odd times when the ordinary work of the farm is delayed. The mode of preparing lime for appli¬ cation is so important, that as soon as it reaches the farmer’s land, and is deposited thereon in the shape of stones or shells from the kiln, in due time it should be spread as dry powder ; hut in the interval between depositing and spreading it should not be permitted to be¬ come wet, though rain may fall daily. We will advise that a field in preparation for Potatoes or other root crops, and ready to receive its quota of lime : the ground is marked off into points, two poles apart, and thus there are forty points per acre. The carts laden with shells are drawn on, and half a bushel is deposited on each point ; the shells are then covered with some of the surrounding earth. In a few days the lime begins to protrude, and bursting through its earthy covering, and when it is slacked to admit of mixing. The heap is then broken down, and the lime and earth are mixed, and again made up into a conical heap ; the lime is then considered safe, and its virtues se¬ cured. In a day or two it maybe spread, after which no fall of rain can injure it, and it may remain the farmer’s convenience as to ploughing in. As soon as the land becomes sufficiently dry where the Wheat is thin and has only partially vegetated, the surface should be dragged with Howard’s self-lifting drag ; this will not only improve the growth of what has come up, but it frequently admits the air, so that other grains may vegetate. Horse-feeding and stable management is of the utmost importance. We never drive more than two horses to the plough at any time, and in summer only two to the double-furrowed plough, as it is heavy work on some land. The horses should be upstanding and heavy, and be well fed, in which case their actual weight will assist in the work and make it comparatively easy. Our allowance of corn has been 80 lbs. of Oats, with 2 cwt. of Clover hay, and about 70 lbs. of Carrots or other roots per horse per week all through the winter months, and until the Trifolium or other grass is ready for cutting in May. Hand Labour. — Draining work required should be set out as soon as the land is white dry on the surface, for then the dark spots show exactly the wettest parts and the direction for placing the drains ; and our plan, as previously stated in these columns, is still the best — viz., placing the drains down the incline of the land at distances in accordance with the wetness of the land. If, however, the land is wet from bird’s-eye springs, then the drains should be cut across above the spring, in order to cut the water off before it reaches the surface. Women now should be constantly employed in such work as preparing roots for the cutter before the sheep, and also in looking over the ground, forking out any bunches of grass, Ac., before the hurdles are set up for the folding. The ploughing-in of roots should now be done where the sheep cannot eat them, or where the plan is adopted to avoid keeping sheep, with the view of ploughing-in the crop for Lent corn. This is best done by two women pulling the roots and striking them together to free them from earth, and cast them greens and all into the Gardner’s cutter, one man grinding them, and another spreading the cut loots. These men take turns in grinding and spreading. In this way about 12 or 13 tons of roots will produce as fine a crop of Oats as when the roots have been fed with sheep eating cake, hay, Ac., and in fact it i3 too high-farming for Barley, when the land is in good cultivation in other respects, and yields so much straw as to frequently injure the sample for malting purposes. Live Stock. — The home farmer should now consider his position as regards his ewes and lambs, for the position is really such as we have never known it before — five millions of sheep short in the kingdom as compared with ten years ago. Sheep for years to come, in accord¬ ance with general calculations, must be dear to buy for feeding, there¬ fore the breeders will have the most profit where an average growth of roots and grass occurs. Why should the lambs be sold at light or usual weights, say 10 or 12 lbs. per quarter, when, in case they are fed until they reach 20 lbs. per quarter, they would realise 75*. or 80s. each ? No part of their life will they pay more money, nor can sheep of any age be bought to pay so much as the lambs kept on until they reach the above-named weight. In fact, it is now a complete reversal of circumstances, the breeder obtaining the chief advantage. Let the farms which have usually been grazing farms during the past now change over and save all the lambs until they reach heavy weights, also reserving as many ewes as possible for future breeding. We must now refer to breeding swine. We prefer to rear cross-bred animals by mating the Berkshire sow with a large white Yorkshire boar of the largest kind we can obtain, as weight for age and early maturity are best obtained by this cross, and at the same time the Berkshires make the best mothers and bring large farrows as to num¬ ber, and they come into use not only very early, but yield the greatest proportion of lean to fat of any breed or cross with which we are acquainted. There is another point in favour of cross-breeding, for the offspring are usually more healthy than when animals are continually bred on the farm without change of blood. We keep our breeding sows in yards of small extent, with a small shed attached, and feed them for the most part with green vegetables and a few beans or peas twice a day. The yard is fenced with iron cattle hurdles and floored with earth, the long horse dung being spread over the yard as fast as it arises at the cart-horse stables, and allowed to accumulate. This is found to make excellent and roomy accommodation for the sows, which are constantly treading down the dung and adding to its value by their own droppings and consolidating the mass, which would deteriorate more or less under ordinary circumstances. When the sows are about to farrow they are removed to a comfortable pen of about 10 feet by 10 feet under cover, and the like space in the open, fenced by ironwork, the manure being allowed to accumulate in the outside space. Here they remain until the young pigs are weaned, when they return to the yard again, as they are found to breed well, but would bring but few pigs in numbers if kept in close pens without exercise. Hogg A Wood’s Annual Seed Report. — Messrs. Hogg A Wood of Coldstream observe in their report that of English Red and Welsh Red Clovers and Cowgrass really good examples are scarce and will be dear ; medium seeds are not plentiful. Of foreign Reds, the crops on the continents of Europe and America are much under the average, and will, to a large extent, be required for sowing abroad. France will be able to send us some good seeds, but at a high price. White Clover on the whole is an average crop. Both fine and medium quali¬ ties will be fairly plentiful, but owing to the failure of the crop of Alsike prices will be higher than those of last year. The home crop of Perennial and Italian Rye Grass seeds is a fair average, and prices are considerably lower than those of 1882. Of foreign Italian there is an extremely poor yield, and prices are high. The natural Grasses are under an average crop, and for pure clean samples prices rule high. Of Turnip, Mangold, and other root seeds we have had a good yield of excellent well-matured seed of strong growth. The cost of Turnip seeds is nothing as compared with the difference between a good and bad crop, and it is a fact now pretty well known that a good stock of Turnip or Mangold seeds will produce several tons more weight per acre than an inferior stock. Webbs’ Farm Seed Catalogue. — This work is noticeable as con¬ taining excellent original articles on the Turnip fly and finger-and-toe in Turnips, with illustrations showing the insects in their various phases as attacking the plants above ground, and the fungus which affects the roots and often seriously injures the crop. Remedies are proposed and means suggested for averting the attacks in question. EGGS AND THE HATCHING SEASON. “ It is an ill wrind which blows nobody any good.” So says the old proverb, and we think we might add “ and an ill rain.” The late rains have indeed been disastrous alike to man, beast and bird, but we have already observed one advantage from them — viz., that eggs are hatching remarkably well. The effect which a damp atmosphere has upon the development of the germ within the egg is somewhat mysterious, but all observation has led us to think that a certain amount of damp is necessary to keep the thin skins which encircle the contents of the egg in such a condition that the chick when fully developed can with ease twist itself round in the shell, and so break its way out of it. Old henwives always complain that during east winds many chickens are “dead in the shells.” The meaning of this somewhat strange phraseology is that chickens, which up to the hatching point had duly developed, are unable to extricate themselves, and so die unhatched. We have observed in incubators, even where there are the most careful precautions taken to keep up a moist atmosphere, that many fully developed chickens do not hatch, and that, in the shells of those which do hatch, the 168 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ February 22, 1833. aforesaid fine skins are harsh and dry, and not like those found in eggs hatched in a natural manner. All this points to the fact that moisture drawn either from the ground underneath or from the atmosphere is necessary for the due development and hatching of the chick. We have sometimes been inclined to think that this moisture must necessarily come from the ground under the nest, but our experience this spring leads us to think it can be equally well supplied from the atmosphere. We have had hens sitting in parti¬ cularly dry places, but still every fertile egg (and nearly every egg has been fertile) has hatched. During the last few days three birds set in dusty dry places have brought out thirty-five chickens from thirty- five eggs, a thirty- sixth having been clear. We never before remember like success, and believe that we have to thank the incessant and otherwise disastrous rain for it. The lesson to be learnt from this is, that where Nature can be followed and the hens can be allowed to sit out of doors, there, as we all know, will be the best broods. All hens are not, however, sufficiently hardy so to sit, and all premises are not sufficiently safe for them to be exposed : where, then, they are set in houses these should not be kept too dry. Many people continually sprinkle eggs under incubation with water ; save in very hot weather we think the practice risky and likely to cause chills, and much prefer a sitting-house with a generally damp atmosphere. There is another point of importance at this season. Thousands of eggs are annually bought and sold by fanciers for sitting. It is commonly thought that an egg is an egg, and that as long as it arrives unbroken it must be “ good.” Indeed, we have known otherwise sensible people who have bought eggs quite incensed with the vendor if every one has not produced a living chick, and declare that they have been taken in. Many things are necessary to insure the successful hatching of eggs which have travelled. To begin, the germ of life must be strong. There are different degrees of strength in the latent life of an egg depending upon the health and strength of the parent and other circumstances, just as much as there are different degrees of strength in the newly-born offspring of a viviparous animal. A weak germ of life in an egg, which if incubated when laid may come to real life, will not do so if the egg is shaken about. Then the egg must be fresh ; in a quiescent state, especially if the egg be daily warmed by the return of the hen to lay again, the germ of life may lie dormant for many days, even for weeks ; but for anything like the successful incubation of eggs which have travelled far it is absolutely necessary that they be set while still fresh. Why this should be so we do not pretend to say. Again, they must be thoroughly well packed, so as not to be jarred in transit. We have often related our method of packing, which is by no means an original invention of our own. Each egg is wrapped in newspaper ; then a whisp of hay is twisted round it, and turned over the ends ; thus encased, the eggs are placed on end (on which end we really care little, but generally put the large end downwards) in a basket. They must not be so loosely packed as to shake about, nor so tightly as to lose the benefit of the elasticity of the hay. We prefer baskets to boxes for various reasons. They are less easily jarred, and less liable to be thrown violently down on the ground, if they have, as all egg baskets should have, handles. A layer of hay should be put in the bottom of the basket, and another over the eggs at the top. The lid should then be carefully sewn on and sealed. The latter precaution is particularly necessary. All will have been done that possibly can be done by the sender if these directions be fully carried out. Even this care will not abso¬ lutely insure success. W e have known cases in which there has been the strongest proof possible that fresh eggs sent in every way as we have directed have arrived off a journey in such a state that it would have been useless to set them. We had once superintended the packing of some, and knew all to be fresh. They went to no ignorant or inexperienced person, but to a lady fancier skilled in all poultry matters, who at once found that the contents of some abso¬ lutely rattled. Let not, however, our readers be deterred by these warnings from sending eggs even long journeys. These accidents are the exception, not the rule. Thousands of eggs every day safely travel long distances. We once sent twenty-four Golden-pencilled Hamburgh eggs over one hundred miles ; necessarily they were not all fresh, for we had but two hens. They were conveyed by country carriers at each end of the journey, by three rails, besides that most perilous of all conveyances, a transfer cart through London, and yet twenty-four strong chickens emerged from them. We have merely mentioned the possibility of even the best and best packed eggs being damaged in transit, because we know much of the unreason¬ able complaints which purchasers make if every egg does not hatch. As a rule, those who buy eggs are not the most experienced fanciers, and when failure follows, we believe it in three cases out of four to be the result of bad management in their incubation. We will briefly state the points which must of necessity be observed. 1, Eggs which have travelled must be set under hens and not in incubators. No seller can possibly be responsible fir the non-hatching of eggs which have travelled and then been incubated artificially. Why this should be so we cannot entirely explain ; experience has taught us the fact. Probably eggs of strong vitality will bear one non-natural process, not two. 2, They must be un¬ packed immediately on arrival and set in twenty-four hours. We believe this to be better than to set 'hem at once. 3, They must be set under a quietly established hen in a clean nest. 4, A really good brood can only be expected if the nest be in a damp atmo¬ sphere or on the natural ground. In spite of many perils from care¬ less porters, jolting carts, and rattling luggage vans, we believe that if senders and receivers of eggs would alike attend to these little sine qua non conditions, it would be possible conveniently to ex¬ change eggs even with friends in the New World. We have known cases in which eggs have crossed the Atlantic safely and hatched well on the other side. — C. OUR LETTER BOX. Drumhead Cabbage and Thousand - headed Kale (if. Z>.).— These are so distinct that they can scarcely be placed in comparison in the manner you propose, any more than the Scotch Kale can be compared with the garden Cabbage. The Thousand-headed or Jersey Kale does not form “ heads.” It grows tall, produces large leaves, and an abundance of side growths that render it profitable ; it is also hardy, and freely eaten by cows and sheep. You had better try it yourself, sowing the seed in March, and inserting the plants when large enough the same as you do Cabbages. Drumhead Cabbage seed we sow about the middle of August for the early summer crop, and the end of the present month or early in March for the autumn crop, in both cases transplant¬ ing the seedlings when they are large enough. We have large heads from both sowings, but autumn-raised plants usually attain the largest size. To have fine Cabbages the soil must be deep and fertile. If you obtain an ounce from each of a dozen houses you may have a very interesting trial, and gain experience that may be serviceable to you. According to your letter you can lose nothing by the experiment suggested. Alderney Cow Calving Prematurely (F. S.).— A cow, after calving three months before her time, may, if she has always been a good milker when going her full time of pregnancy, will continue, if carefully milked, in profit by yielding a good supply of milk without becoming dry earlier than usual, if she has been milked previously up to the time when she was due to calve again in due course. If, however, she had been allowed to go dry for some months before calving again, and which any great milking breed never ought to be allowed to do, she will probably go dry earlier in consequence of giving premature birth. With respect to her being likely to again give premature birth in the future, much will depend as to whether it has happened on this occasion through any accidental cause which can be vouched for ; if not, she should not be trusted to breed from again, as some cows give premature birth inherently or from some constitutional tendency. Coltsfoot in Pasture (A. ft.). — It is very difficult to eradicate without breaking up the turf ; and even then, if a few small pieces of the root were left in the land, it would increase similarly to the growth of Horseradish in gardens. It is worth a trial regardless of cost to take off the turf and dig out the roots, and then relay the turf. Applications such as salt would kill the turf if enough was applied to kill the Coltsfoot. Gas lime the same, but these are the two best applications to destroy the weed. Your land probably requires draining. Folding sheep on the ground in spring has sometimes a beneficial effect, as their continued trampling crushes the young growths and crowns of the plants, and so weakens them considerably. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40” N. ; Long. 0° 8 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. DATE. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. I Rain. 1883. February. Barome¬ ter at 32s and Sea Level Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. | Temp. Of 1 Soil at 1 foot. Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Inches. deg. deg. deg. deg deg. deg deg. In. Sun. 11 29.589 39.8 38.0 W. 42.3 48.0 38.9 80.0 36.4 — Mon. 12 29.573 48.4 42.9 s.w. 42.1 49.4 40.2 61.6 34.2 0.267 Tues. 13 29 833 41.7 39.3 s.w. 42.0 48.0 383 82.4 32.2 — Wed. 14 29.948 46.3 44.3 s.w. 41.1 47.4 40.7 49 5 35.3 0.166 Thurs. 15 29.985 47.5 46.2 s.w. 42.3 53.3 45.0 75.2 40.6 0.104 Friday 16 30.481 3 5.1 34.7 N. 42.0 48.5 31.8 82.3 26.9 — Satur. 17 30.401 39.9 37.6 s. 40.4 46.2 29.3 67.2 24.4 0.452 29.973 42.8 40.8 41.7 48.7 87.7 71.2 32.9 0.989 REMARKS. 11th. — Rain in early morning with 1 igh wi id ; day fine and bright. 12th. — Fine at first ; wet dull day. 13th. — Fine generally, with bright sunshine ; 1 a' 1 at 11 A.M. ^ 14th. — Fine early, afterwards squally with rain. 15th.— Showery, with very bright internals ; lunar halo at 6.45 P.M. 16th. — Fine with bright sunshine ; mist in evenhig. 17th. — Fine throughout. The heazy raiu enterel against this date fell chiefly between 4 and 7 A.M. on 18th. Another wet and warm week ; very nearly a i inch of rain fell, and already nearly 3£ inches have fallen this month, and nearly 5J inches this year, or as much as usually falls up to April 10th. The temperature also continues much above the average— G. J. Symons. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 1, 1883. ] 169 1st Tn Roval Society at 4.30 P.M. 2nd P Linnfcan Society at 8 P.M. 3rd s 4th SUN 4th Sunday in Lent. Sth M 6th TU 7th W Society of Arts at 8 P.M. CROSS-BREEDING PRIMULAS AND AURICULAS. ARWIN ’ S dictum that “Nature abhors ^ self- fertilisation ” is so generally ac¬ cepted that it may almost be regarded as a truism, although unbelievers lay much stress on the few exceptions, which, however, only prove the rule. Applied to plants, cross-fertilisation commonly means the fertilisation of the ovules through the $>)'• stigmas of one plant by means of pollen from ^ another individual of the same species. There are, however, in some cases individual species, and in others whole orders, to which the general rule does not fully apply, and prominent among the latter is the Primulacege. Raisers of Auriculas have ignored this. The pollen from one florists’ variety is taken to fertilise the stigma of another variety, and the result is called a cross. In the scientific — that is to say natural — sense of the term it is not a cross, and the actual result from one point of view is even worse than self-fertilisation would be in ordinary cases. For instance, Melons, Vegetable Marrow, or Cucumbers fertilised with blooms from the same plant, which in their case is as near self-fertilisa¬ tion as can be, do not show any degeneracy in the offspring ; at least it is not marked. But in the case of Primulas the fertilisation of thrum- eyed flowers with pollen taken from thrum-eyed flowers of the same species, no matter how distinct the varieties may be, is always attended with partial failure as well marked, or even more so, than in the case of inveterate haters of self-fertilisation when self-fertilised. When all the ovules of a seedpod become perfect seeds the amount of seed is said to be normal, when below that it is abnormal. Now in the case of plants which “abhor self-fertilisation” the number of seeds produced in self-fertilised flowers are always abnormal more or less, varying from a slight deficiency to nothing at all ; and this* is accompanied by lessened vitality, which generally diminishes from generation to gene¬ ration if the evil practice is continued. This is the cause of the recognised evil of what is called “ in-and- in ” breeding among domestic animals. The affinity of species is often tested in this way : When species are crossed, and the produce is normal or nearly so, species are considered to be nearly related ; when very few or no seeds, and these of low germinating power, are produced, they are considered not so nearly related, although there are decided exceptions to this as to every other rule. In this instance varieties and species differ, for the more distant the variety (it may even be a sub-variety, or variety of a distinct race, such a& Brussels Sprouts and Scotch Kale) the likelier we are to have a full complement of seed, that seed of the plumpest type, and the progeny of the most vigorous- nature, surpassing in most cases the vigour of either parent. Primulas of all kinds, P, Auricula and P. sinensis in particular, when crossed artificially — that is, on florists’ principles — show by the very great diminution in the quality of the seed, its low germinating power,, and in the want of vigour in the progeny — all the evils of self-fertilisation. Those who have bought seeds at half a crown a packet, and found comparatively few seeds for their money, that even these germinated badly, and that such seedlings as did appear were very weakly. But the real fact is that seed is only obtained with great difficulty, in small quantity, and of by no means the best quality, when raised from Show or Alpine varieties when hi ature’s principles are thwarted in its raising. But florists will point to their very highly refined flowers, and, while admitting that a little more vigour in the plants might be desirable, will confidently ask if the results attained do not justify their mode of crossing. We admit they have produced flowers of exquisite beauty, and are deeply indebted to them for so doing, for they have produced what we may call strains of great merit, whereby we, taking Nature as our guide- and florists’ flowers for a beginning, may speedily pro¬ duce a race of robust hardy plants which will reproduce all the beauty of colouring, greater numbers of flowers,, and much of the refinement of florists' flowers, and, after all, this recognised refinement is itself regulated by an artificial standard. It is not intended that florists should learn from this, for possibly they know better, but a hint may serve even their purpose. Whether by adopting Nature’s plan equal results can from a florist’s point of view be obtained we will not venture to say. Greater results might be obtained ; certainly greater vigour in the plants would be secured ; and if the per-centage of flowers produced possessing the properties necessary be less, the much greater quan¬ tity of seed produced may make up for this, and it is not too much to suppose more. Perhaps a word on fertilisation may be acceptable in this place to those who may not be familiar with the subject. Nature provides for cross-fertilisation in a variety of ways. A very common one is that the stamens and stigmas in any flowers are not in con¬ dition at the same time. In some cases the pollen cases have burst, and the pollen been distributed by ; the wind or by insects, before the stigma becomes re- i ceptive ; in other cases the stigma has been fertilised before the pollen has become ready. In a large number of instances most wonderful mechanical contrivances exist to prevent self-fertilisation. Darwin in his work on “ The Fertilisation of Orchids” has shown what a variety of amazing arrangements exist in even such a small number of plants as British Orchids to prevent self-fertilisation. Even when the stigma is receptive, when the pollen is ripe, and when no special contri¬ vances exist to prevent self-fertilisation, in a great number of cases foreign pollen — that is, pollen from another flower or another plant, is prepotent. Hybridisers wishing to cross a large species with a NO, UOr-VOL; VL» ISIBD gfiBIBS, No, 1706. — VOL. LXIX., Old &EBIE*. 170 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 1, 1883. smaller have often failed, and then come to the con¬ clusion that too great a gap existed between the two to admit of the one fertilising the other ; but later experiments have proved that mere botanical affinity is not everything. For instance, we will suppose we have a tiny Rhododendron and we Avisli to cross it with a strong-growing one. If we take pollen from a large one at random, failure will likely be the result ; but if we carefully select the weakest shortest stamens we can find, success will in all likelihood attend our efforts. Why is this ? It is because the size and strength of the pollen grains have a distinct relation to the length and strength of the stamens. Now, strong pollen when applied to a stigma emits strong pollen tubes — tubes, in fact, which naturally grow as long, more or less, as the stamens on which the pollen was matured. Now, when these pass down a short-styled pistil and reach the ovules, instead of stopping as they should, they grow on, endeavouring to reach their natural length ; but this progress is fatal to the ovules, which are ruptured and destroyed. But when pollen from a weakly short stamen is taken, it often happens that this very weakness secures success to the operator not otherwise obtainable. On the other hand, when pollen from a small flower wTith small stamens and small pollen grains is applied to the strong style of a large species the chances are that the tubes will never reach the ovules ; and should any find their way thus far and actually fertilise an ovule or two the resulting seeds are weakly, and as often as not fail to germinate. This has been repeatedly proved. Let us examine a Primula flower, keeping the above facts in mind. Here is a thrum-eyed flower, in which will be seen a pistil attached to an ovary, but very short. The stamens, however, are very long, for they reach to the top of the tube, though they appear to spring from the top of the tube. Tlirum-eyed flowers therefore have long stamens and short styles. The reverse form cannot be found in the frames of the florists, but must be sought in the open border. There are no stamens visible in this form, but there is a pistil exactly where the stamens in the other flower were. Cut open the tube, and it will be seen that the stamens are also just the length of the pistil in the other. The first flower is the thrum- eye, and the second is the pin-eye of the florist. Let us again, in the light of what we asked our readers to bear in mind, see the consequence of thwart¬ ing Nature as the florist does. First let us examine Nature’s operations. She employs simply the wind in many cases, but in this she employs insects. Watch a bank of Cowslips on a still evening. The humble bees are busy. One has alighted on a tlirum-eyed flower, and, thrusting down his proboscis for the honey at the base, he smears his head with pollen. He flies to another flower, which may be a pin-eye, and his dusty head is rubbed on the stigma as he again plunges his proboscis down to the bottom of the tube, and the flower is thus fertilised. But the bee does more. His proboscis is smeared with pollen from the short stamens, and just at the spot fitted for coming in contact with the stigma of the short pistil in the next long-stamened flower he visits. The result of this is that both kinds are fully fertilised with the proper pollen and bear a full complement of vigorous seed that will produce healthy plants. If we desire a similar result we must do likewise : indeed in the case of the Chinese Prim¬ rose seed of any kind can hardly be had any other way Even when properly fertilised — which it seldom is by private growers, hence the high price of Primula seed — it seldom bears a full complement of seed, which has caused some to suppose it a hybrid, this being an almost invariable character of hybrids. — Single-handed. (To be continued.) EXTENSIVE FRUIT FARMING. Land-owneks have for several years past been directing their attention to other means of utilising their estates than by letting them for ordinary farming purposes, and amongst the various projects advocated and tried none has so far yielded such satisfactory results as fruit culture where judi¬ ciously carried out. This matter continues to increase in importance, and numbers of proprietors are awakening to the fact that under good management far greater profits can be obtained than from the same land employed in the ordinary routine farming. American supplies of grain are fast render¬ ing it an almost hopeless task for home growers to compete with them, and their disadvantage is still further increased by the exceptionally unfavourable seasons that have been expe¬ rienced in recent years. At the present time there are scores of unoccupied farms in England, comprising thousands of acres, that are being worked by the proprietors, and not always profitably ; the present season, too, appears likely to increase the evil immeasurably. The matter, therefore, is of national interest, and any method that gives a good promise of success deserves careful consideration. Fruit-farming is attracting the notice of many land-owners in England, and some of the more spirited have already set admirable examples in this mode of utilising suitable land. Fruit plantations have been established in many districts, particularly in the southern counties, and some are now yield¬ ing handsome profits — a success which has encouraged more extensive trials of the system, and with proportionately satisfactory results. Some grow the fruit for marketing fresh, others preserve it whole or pulped for the jam manufacturers, and still others convert it into jam themselves ; but all alike who have conducted the business in a rational and practical manner speak very highly of the returns. We have also recently had several treatises upon the subject, which show it in a most favourable light, notably those by Mr. Whitehead and Mr. G. Bunyard. These and the articles in the gardening press generally, such as that by Mr. J. Wright a few years ago in this Journal, in reference to the fruit plantation at Barham Court, Maidstone, have done much to awaken public attention, and have aided greatly in the advance of this most important branch of commerce. Probably the most extensive fruit farm in Great Britain is that recently established by Lord Sudeley on his estate at Toddington in Gloucestershire, where 500 acres have been planted with fruit trees, bush fruits, and Strawberries. This is at present young, the trees having only been planted two years ; but the bush fruits are advancing very fast, and the other trees are equally promising, the soil being a good sub¬ stantial loam, and the district one of the most favourable in England for fruit cultivation. The number of trees and bushes required to plant this extent of land appears at first sight incredible, but the following particulars will give an accurate idea of the subject. The standards, such as the Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries, are planted 16 feet apart in rows that are the same distance asunder, and which in some cases extend to a length of three-quarters of a mile. The land between the rows is planted with Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries, some forty acres being specially devoted to Straw¬ berries, and a still greater space of pasture has been broken up, and is now being planted with the same fruit. Of Pears 852 trees have been planted, representing twenty -one varieties — Beurre d’Amanlis, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Jargonelle, Beurre de Capiaumont, Easter Beurre, Bishop’s Thumb, and Doyenne d’Ete forming more than half the total. About 3000 Apples are grown, which include 700 trees of Lord Suffield, 300 of Cox’s Orange Pippin, and 100 each of King March 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 171 of the Pippins, Keswick Codlin, Grenadier, Cellini, and Warner’s King. 1383 are pyramids, and the others standards. Plums are very largely grown, over 20,000 having been planted of no less than 44 varieties. The most approved sorts, however, head the list ; for instance, there are 2919 trees of \ictoria ; Diamond, 1654 ; Early Orleans, 1650 ; Pond’s Seedling, 1506 ; Greengage, 1382 ; Early Prolific, 793 ; Old Orleans, 825 ; and Autumn Compote, 800. Of Damsons 8845 have been planted, comprising 4610 of the Clus'er, a variety which is also known as Crittenden’s, and described in Dr. Hogg’s excellent “Fruit Manual” as “the best of all Damsons ; ” 3260 of the Prune, a fine variety for preserving and jam-making ; 700 of the common Damson, 200 of ihe Cheshire, and 50 of the Late Black. Cherries are represented by 532 trees of nine varieties. Of Bigarreau Napoleon, an extremely rich-flavoured variety, there are 100 trees, and the same number of Black Heart, a prolific and good-flavoured variety. There are also 50 trees each of Frogmore Early, one of the Bigarreau type, with juicy pleasantly flavoured fruits, Bigarreau Noir and Flemish, a variety similar* to the well- known Kentish Cherry. The small fruits are very abundant, Black Currants heading the list with 167,000 bushes, the produce of which in a few years’ time will be enormous. Of Baldwins and Black Naples together there are nearly 100,000 bushes, thus forming con¬ siderably more than half the total. These varieties are much alike, very prolific, and bearing large berries of a pleasant flavour. The chief other varieties are Black Grape, or Ogden’s Black, which has smaller fruits than the preceding, but of good quality ; Lee’s Prolific, one of the most freely fruiting varieties, and with very large berries ; and Prince of Wales. 10,000 Red Currants are grown — 5000 each of Raby Castle and Scotch Red, the first being a well-known excellent variety. Of Raspberries 5000 stools have been planted, all Carters’ Prolific, except 1000 of Semper Fidelis ; and of Gooseberries no less than 93,000 bushes, the last-named comprising fifty varieties. Of these the principal are Crown Bob, 38,450 ; Whitesmith, 14,550 ; Lancashire Lad, 9000 ; Warrington, 8000 ; and Lancashire Prize, 1000, which may be relied upon to pro¬ duce good crops of useful fruit. About forty acres are devoted to Strawberries, the variety being Stirling Castle Pine, which is said to be of excellent quality for preserving purposes. A large additional space of land is, however, being planted with a small-fruited variety that is a great favourite with the growers in the neighbourhood of Isleworth, and known to them as the American Scarlet, but which is very similar in qualities to the Grove End Scarlet. The fruits though small are very regular in size, of fine bright colour, which is not destroyed in preserving, and the flavour is rich and sugary. About 20 tons of runners of this variety have already been dispatched to Toddington for planting. The first-mentioned variety, Stirling Castle Pine, is not much known now, still it has been in cultivation over thirty years, though when it was raised or by whom does not appear ; but in M. J. Decaisne’s Jardin Fruitier it is said to have been introduced to France by Vilmorin in 1851, and it is mentioned in lists published in the Cottage Gardener about that time. In the earlier editions of the “ Fruit Manual ” the variety is thus described — “ Fruit large, ovate or conical, pointed, even and regular in shape. Seeds small, not deeply embedded. Skin of a bright scarlet colour, becoming dark red as it ripens. Flesh pale scarlet, brisk and of excellent flavour.” Decaisne de¬ scribed he plant as very hardy and fertile and one of the best for preserving, which is no doubt due both to its colour and flavour. The other appears to be that described by Mr. C. McIntosh in his “ Book of the Garden ” as the Old Scarlet, and known also as the Scarlet Virginian, Early Scarlet, and Old Bath Scarlet, and was at one time greatly valued by confec¬ tioners for preserving. The preceding, with 100 Cob Nuts, 100 Scotch Firs, and 10,000 Poplars for sheltering purposes make a grand total of 338,400 trees. As further explanatory of the method of planting adopted, it may be observed that the space has been strictly economised in the market garden style, the standard trees, as already stated, being 16 feet apart each way, and the ground between planted with bush fruits. By far the greatest portion of the land is occupied with Plums and Damsons, and on the west side of the estate 167 acres are devoted to them ; two Red Curranf, Black Currant, or Gooseberry bushes being planted between each pair of standards in the lines, and the rows between the lines at equal distances. In some places Rasp¬ berries also are placed between the bushes, but this will only be a temporary arrangement until the latter need more space, when the Raspberries will be removed. On rising ground near the above also are 38 acres of standard Plums and Damsons, with Black Currants between them, and there are 48 acres planted with Raspberries, Black Currants, and Strawberries in rows without standards. The space between the Apples and Pears is chiefly planted with Red Currants. Such close crop¬ ping as this will of course necessitate considerable thinning in the future, but in the meantime the bush fruits will be yield¬ ing large and useful supplies. The produce of this wonderful fruit farm in a few years will be simply prodigious, and it might be pertinently asked how Lord Sudeley intends to dispose of it. This may be explained in a few words. An agreement has just been settled between his lordship and Mr. T. W. Beach of Ealing Road, the latter to take the whole of the produce of the 500 acres, and to dispose of it either fresh or preserved. Mr. Beach has had long experience as a fruit-grower and preserver, and he has found there is sufficient demand for pure jams to induce him to confidently expect the most satisfactory results both for Lord Sudeley and himself. A correspondent of a commercial journal recently stated that he had seen a manufactory from which a compound of Turnips, flavoured and coloured with extracts of coal-tar, was being produced for sale as jam, and if such injurious substances can command a sale it may be reasonably expected that a wholesome compound of good fruit and pure sugar must find plenty of purchasers. The farm buildings on the estate are now being fitted up for the purpose of preserving fruit on a very large scale, and every effort is being made by Lord Sudeley to render the establishment as complete as possible. — L. Castle. CULTURE OF AMARYLLISES. These beautiful plants are not grown so extensively in many gardens as they deserve to be, for they are amongst the most useful and brilliant flowering plants we possess. With a good stock of bulbs it is not difficult to have them in flower during every week in the year, but they are the most valuable when grown to flower during the winter and spring, and are very effective when arranged amongst other flowering plants. To display their beauty to the most striking advantage they should be well elevated. Their flower spikes in the majority of instances are produced before the foliage has made much progress, and they are invaluable for the decoration of rooms, and can be used in these positions without the slightest injury. There is a great diversity in the colour of their flowers ; and good seedlings are almost as fine as many of the named varieties, the colours varying from white to the richest crimson, others being striped, while the flowers of some are of a great size and very fragrant. Some varieties are very free, and produce as many as three spikes from a bulb. Amaryllises are of easy culture, as they can be stored under the stage in any cool dry position after growth is completed and the bulbs thoroughly matured. Some cultivators maintain it is advantageous to keep these plants in the same pots and allow them to become thoroughly root-bound, as they then flower better than when periodically potted. There can be no doubt they follow a much wiser course than those who shift on the bulbs until they have them in 10-inch pots, as practised in many gardens. They certainly increase more rapidly with abundance of root room than when confined, but I thin he system is erroneous. Potting is general!}' recommended after the bulbs have flowered, but this I consider too late, as tho roots are then active, and however carefully the operation performed it is impossible to do it without injuring them. From careful observation I found when the bulbs have been properly matured and gradually rested the whole of the thick fleshy roots and fibres remain in a healthy condition during -k 172 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . [ March 1, 1883. the zresting period, and are active before any flowers are -expanded. 1 repot our plants annually, not at any given time, but as the bulbs are picked out after resting to be placed in heat. Most of the old soil is shaken from the roots and the bulbs repotted in 5 and 6-inch pots, according to their roots and the size of their bulbs ; these sizes I have found large enough for single bulbs. The soil employed is rich fibry loam, one-seventh of decayed manure, a little broken charcoal, and coarse sand, which is used liberally. The pots are well drained, and the soil pressed firmly into them, leaving the bulbs when finished well above the soil. By the time the plants have finished flowering their roots .are extending freely in the new soil, and are ready to develope .them growth. They should have an intermediate temperature in which to complete their growth, and a position close to the glass. The object is to have the foliage dwarf and sturdy, as when grown in a close atmosphere a good distance from the glass it has not sufficient strength to support itself. When the season has advanced a slight shade may with advantage be -given at the middle of the day, but light must not be excluded -from the plants. After the growth is thoroughly developed "they can have cool treatment, a shelf in a cool house being .a good position for them, where they can be fully exposed to the sun. Thorough ripening after the growth is completed is the most essential point in their cultivation. While growing liberal supplies of water should be given, 'which must not be diminished until tire foliage shows signs of ripening, and then it must be carefully and gradually withheld, or the roots will suffer, and the bulbs in consequence brought prematurely to rest. If the supply of water in their last stages of growth is properly administered the roots will be ripened by the time the bulbs are, and remain healthy and fresh. If the water supply is abruptly discontinued the majority of the roots will be found dead at starting time, instead of being ready to start again into growth as soon as moisture is .supplied. These plants are subject to thrips and red spider, which can be kept down by a free use of the syringe during the growing .season. — W. .Bardney. ADNITT’S PEA PROTECTORS i noticed in the Journal of the loth ult. a correspondent makes a suggestion with regard to these Pea protectors, but I do not think his plan a good one, for they would be cumbersome and heavy to move without any better result. Probably, too, the birds would be very likely to eat the peas through the wire netting. I have never during my experience found any difficulty in giving head space, or of giving air at the bottom, for when the peas reach the •glass I draw the earth up to the peas on each side. I do not at this stage press the protectors into the soil, but lay them on lightly so that air may circulate under them. When first the idea occurred to me I thought of top ventilation, and made provision for that by making the grooves so that one piece of glass would elide over the other ; but I have never yet found it necessary to -do so, as sufficient air passes in at the end of each protector and the pieces of glass, which need not fit close together. About the middle of last December I sowed a row of Peas 33 yards in length. Thirty yards I protected with my Pea guard. Every plant appears to have grown, and they are now 4 inches in height, strong, with foliage close to the ground. Saturday last I removed the protectors to draw earth to the Peas. I was very pleased with the appearance of the plants, as they are very even and of a healthy colour. I attribute this to the glass covering shielding them from the heavy rains, and carrying the water to the sides of the protectors, and so leaving the row comparatively dry. The soot that I sprinkled on the top of the row was nearly dry. 1 find the birds would attack the Peas when they are staked, but I adopt the plan that was advocated in the Journal fourteen or fifteen years ago — that is, to stretch three lines of stout thread saturated in coal tar on each row, one on the top and one on each side. The seed that was unprotected has not germinated. — S. Adnitt. Dressing Chrysanthemum Blooms. — While the above subject is being discussed in your columns I wish to ask a few questions. I should like to know the points by which the different classes of cut blooms are judged, also the means employed to bring the flowers to the requisite standard after they are grown. I had, or thought I had, a few good flowers (incurved) last autumn, which I ventured to ex¬ hibit at a show in the south, and having no cups, as well as being in ignorance that cups were necessary, they were staged flat on the board. There were nine competitors in the class, and I was left out, but I could not see how I was defeated. I asked some exhibitors the cause of this, and they stated it was because I had not employed cups. Can any of your correspondents give me a few hints on the above subject ? — Subscriber. GARDENING AND GARDENERS. I read with pleasure the article on the above by “ Excelsior,” but I cannot allow the letter of “A Young Gardener, G. H.” (page 134) to pass unnoticed, in which he says half of our young gardeners in bothies are ruined by excessive drinking, &c. This I strongly deny, having as a subordinate spent over ten years in bothies in England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland ; and I can honestly say that during that time it was not my lot to meet with companions such as ‘‘ G. II.” would have us believe are the young gardeners of the present day. As a rule I have found them to compare most favourably, as regards their drink¬ ing habits, with any other class of men. Head gardeners of the present day would not tolerate drinking habits amongst their men. Perhaps “ G. H.” will be surprised to hear that there are gardeners who keep a supply of books for the young men ; and what is the result, of some of them at least ? In a letter I have before me from a nobleman’s gardener and well-known writer he says, “ Some of my men have never asked to see a book of those I keep for their use, although I have pressed them on them ;” and where libraries are not attached to the gardens there are often some within easy reach where books may be procured for a small sum by those who have the will. Young gardeners have the matter in their own hands. Their chief aim at the present time is to get into the houses as soon as possible ; after that very few take but little interest in outside work. In my own case every¬ thing in the kitchen garden is labelled with dates, when sown and planted ; but how rare it is to see one of the young men taking notes of the cropping. It arises, not from drinking habits, but for the want of giving their mind to their profession. If men will not try to help themselves they cannot expect their employers to do so. — Head Gardener. POTATOES FOR TABLE AND MARKET. ( Continued from page 155.) In the following notes the figures 1, 2, and 3 indicate first early, second early, and late varieties ; the months the time of planting ; and the asterisks those varieties that are considered the best for market purposes by the respective cultivators. Cheshire. — 1. March and April. Yeitch’s Improved Ashleaf, ““Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and Early Rose. Soil. — Light. 2. April. ““Schoolmaster, ““Dalmahoy, International, and Snowflake. Soil. — Medium. 3. Early part of May. ““Magnum Bonum, *Paterson’s Victoria, ““Champion, and “Regent. Soil. — Medium. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure, moderately decayed, applied in garden ground when winter digging. — ROBERT Mackellar, Abney Hall Gardens. 1. February. Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, and a variety of the same called ““Captain White’s, which is a little earlier, and Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Soil is light, taken generally ; sandy subsoil. 2. March. Covent Garden Perfection, ““Snowflake, and Yorkshire Hero. Soil. — Light. 3. March, end. *Late Rose, ’“Magnum Bonum, and *Scotch Champion. Soil. — Light. Manures and Application. — I prefer a3 a manure some well-decomposed stable dung and leaves mixed, such as an old hotbed, and prefer cropping the ground with some green vegetables previous to planting Potatoes, particularly in the case of those of American origin. On some parts of the ground this would not apply. Cultural Remarks. — I am of the opinion that if cultivators of the Potato were to plant earlier than is the general rule with many of them, particularly the latest varieties, it would tend to arrest considerably the progress of the disease, as this early planting would be conducive to earlier maturation of the growth of the same, and would allow of the ingathering of the crop before the heavy rains. I am also of the opinion that all persons in giving animals the diseased tubers, even in a cooked state, are acting un¬ wisely, as the resting spore, even after it has passed through the animal, still retains its vitality. — Harry Ward, Oulton Parle Gardens , Tarporley. Cornwall. — 1. Middle of February. Suttons’ Early Ashleaf and ““Myatt’s Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium. 2. First week in March. ““Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf and ““Gloucestershire Kidney. Soil. — Medium. 3. Second week in March. ““Scotch Champion and ““Magnum Bonum. Soil. — Heavy. Manures and Application. — Stable manure, dug-in March 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 173 in the autumn, ploughed in with guano. — James Simmons, Carclew, Perranarworihel. Cumberland. — 1. 1st of March. Mona’s Pride and Royal Ashleaf. Soil.— Light, gravelly subsoil. 2. Beginning to end of March. Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Racehorse, and Regents. 3. First week in April. *Magnum Bonurn, ^Scotch Champion, and Skerry Blues. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure, applied at the time of planting. Cultural Remarks. — The plants are kept free from weeds until the haulm covers the ground. On a suitable soil the Magnum Bonum is the best late Potato in cultivation. It resists the disease as well as the Scotch Champion, and when grown on light soil, the same as here, it is of excellent flavour. It has also the advantage of being free from deep eyes, and to those who have to purchase Potatoes this is of much importance, as it prevents waste /when the Potatoes are being prepared for cooking. When grown on heavy soils, how¬ ever, the Magnum Bonum cooks rather “ soapy.” — J." Hammond, Brayton , Carlisle. 1. March. * Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Old Ashleaf. Soil. — Heavy, 2. March. * Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf and Schoolmaster. 3. April. *Scotch Champion, Paterson’s Victoria, Dalmahoy, and Magnum Bonum. Cultural Remarks. — The ground is well manured and dug in the autumn, leaving it in 2-feet ridges. Before planting the ground is well forked over, breaking the soil as fine as possible, planting the Potatoes as we go on, the first and second earlies in rows 2 feet apart and 1 foot from set to set, adding to each set sufficient leaf soil and old Mushroom-bed refuse for the young tubers to swell in. The late varieties are treated just the same, with the exception of being planted from 3 feet to 3 feet 4 inches between the rows. — Frederick Clarke, Lowther Castle Gardens. Derbyshire. — 1. As early in February as the weather will per¬ mit. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Heavy, retentive. 2. As early in March as the weather will permit. Schoolmaster and Beauty of Hebron. 3. Early in March. Magnum Bonum and Paterson’s Victoria. Manures and Application. — There are many manures that may be advantageously used in a mild form for our stiff soil. We find spent hops, dissolved bones, lime, salt, and well-decayed farmyard manure dug in early in the autumn and just before earthing-up, a little soot, wood ashes, or guano sown over the surface, taking care not to touch the leaves, otherwise the stems will be injured. Where it can be procured well- decayed seaweed is an excellent manure. Cultural Remarks. — We usually give all the new introductions a fair trial. Some years ago we had over one hundred varieties, but after a few years’ trial we find these six kinds to be the most reliable for all purposes. Nothing enjoys fresh soil more than the Potato, but as we have to grow them in old cultivated gardens manures must be resorted to. We also find it best to give them plenty of room, select good sets, and plant early about 5 inches deep. Magnum Bonums are the heaviest croppers. Plenty of sets yield 10 tbs. of good tubers under quite ordinary culture of such kinds as Magnum Bonum, Beauty of Hebron, and Schoolmaster ; Myatt’s, 7 tbs. ; Veitch’s, 4 tbs. per set. — J. H. GoODACRE, Elvaston Castle Gardens. Devonshire. — 1. End of February. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and ’Early Rose. Soil. — Light and sandy. 2. Middle of March. Prince Arthur, *Dal- mahoy, Drummond’s Prolific, and Fortyfold. Soil. — Light loam. 3. Beginning of April. ’Magnum Bonum, ’Scotch Champion, Pater¬ son's Victoria, and Red-skin Flourball. Soil. — Strong heavy loam. Manures and Application. — For early crops a mixture of horse drop¬ pings and leaf soil. For second and general crops a mixture of well- decayed cow manure and leaf soil. — Donald Mackay, Maristow Bouse , Roborough. 1. January, or as early in this month or February as the weather permits. The Ashleaf varieties. Soil. — Light garden soil ; on south borders, or on the warmest sites in kitchen garden. 2. March, not later than Lady-day. Fortyfold, Flourball, ’Early Rose, and ’Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — For these and the following medium, red loam, resting on rock of volcanic origin, other parts of the same field on the red sandstone. 3. March, not later than Lady-day. York Regents, ’Scotch Champion, ’Magnum Bonum, and ’Reading Hero. Manures and Application. — Common stableyard manuie and the refuse of the pleasure grounds — viz., grass, leaves, &c., decayed and mixed with fresh lime, well mixed back when slaked, and allowed to remain for a considerable time. The above manure and mixture are used in alternate years, one year the manure and the next the com¬ post. Cultural Remarks. — The field culture is done deeply by the plough, and well dragged, rolled, &c., until of fine tilth. The manure ploughed down as early in the year as the weather will allow, the cultivation being only proceeded with in fine weather. When got to a fine tilth we plough in the general crop on a dry day from 2j feet to 3 feet apart, and 7 inches deep, and let it remain until they are about coming through the surface of the soil. The field is then well har¬ rowed on a sunny drying day. This acts as a thorough check to all small weeds. They are afterwards horse-hoed between and hand-hoed in the rows as required. The Regents are dug in August, early or later as the season may he. It is necessary to lift this sort at once as soon as the disease attacks it, as, although it is of the best quality, it suffers much more than the other late sorts. They are left until the haulm dies. As our soil is naturally perfectly drained, we plant the sets 7 inches deep, and do not earth up. The first leaves are there¬ fore fully developed, instead of being buried with the soil, and thereby shortening the season. — John Garland, Killerton, Exeter. 1. End of February. Wood’s Ashleaf, ’Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, and ’Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium. 2. About the middle of March. Beauty of Hebron, Dalmahoy, ’Paterson’s Victoria, and Schoolmaster. Soil. — Medium. 3. End of March. ’Scotch Cham¬ pion, *Magnum Bonum, and Fluke. Soil. — Medium. Manures and Application. — I never use any manure for planting. I prefer planting on sand that has been manured for a previous crop, and use plenty of lime at planting time. We have about 2 feet depth of soil on the lime rock. I find the more manure used the more diseased are the tubers. — William Wood, Bishopstowe, Torquay. Dorsetshire. — 1. At intervals during February and March. Turner’s Early Bird, Ashleaf, and Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Light. 2. Middle of March. Gloucestershire Kidney and Lady Paget, a good variety of the Lapstone section. Soil. — Medium. 3, First week in March. Schoolmaster and Scotch Champion. Soil. — Medium. Manures and Application. — We plant in drills and cover them in with old lime rubbish, with a liberal dressing of soot or burnt refuse. Cultural Remarks. — We plant early varieties 2 feet, apart, and the later ones 2 feet G inches, and 1 foot from set to set. We never use fresh dung on land intended for Potatoes, as I believe it helps to spread disease. In addition to those already named we grow a collection of the leading varieties for experimental purposes. — W. G. Pragnell, Castle Gardens, Sherborne. 1. Plant in frames in January and February for succession, and outdoors in March for general crop ; earth up and preserve from frosts. Early Bird, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, ’Coldstream or Smith’s Early, and ’Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Light and rich ; leaf soil, sandy loam, and well-decayed dung for pit or frame Potatoes. Choose a sunny well-sheltered border for the first outdoor crop ; if the soil is heavy lighten by the addition of lime, burnt clay, or ashes. 2. March, about the middle of the month, or later if soil is wet. ’Flourball, ’Gloucester Kidney, ’Yorkshire Hero, and ’Hunting- don. Soil. — Sandy loam or sandy peat is the best for most kinds of Potatoes ; to secure good crops of well-flavoured tubers the soil must be light and porous. 3. Any time after March 1st when the soil is in good working order. ’Schoolmaster, ’Magnum Bonum, ’Pater- son’s Victoria, and ’Scotch Regents. Soil. — Some of the more hardy kind, such as Rocks or Scotch Champion, may do in medium strong soil, care being taken to plant shallow and to frequently stir the soil, and earth up the growing crop. Manures and Application. — Ordinary farmyard manure spread upon the ground and dug in or ploughed in the autumn, frequent sprinkling of guano or Brinkworth’s Potato manure strewed along the drills will encourage vigorous growth. Bonedust is also a first-rate manure. Cultural Remarks. — The varie¬ ties named are the best I know for general use in various localities. I have found them good croppers, good flavour, and hardy sorts. From many years’ experience in different parts of the country I find that success in Potato-growing is due to local causes, such as soil, situations, and well-matured tabers. The past year was most unfavourable for- maturing the tubers, consequently they are watery and destitute of flavour. It is generally admitted that change of seed, say every three years, is necessary for success in Potato-growing. — P. Davidson:, The Gardens, Iwerne House, Shaftesbury. Durham. — 1. End of February or beginning of March. Mona's Pride, Myatt’s Kidney, ’Alma, and Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Heavy. 2. March. Gloucestershire Kidney, Dalmahoy, ’Regent, and Schoolmaster. 3. March and beginning of April. Champion, *Paterson’s Victoria, and Fluke. Manures and Application. — Farm¬ yard manure, not too much decomposed, applied mostly in autumn. Cultural Remarks. — The plan I generally adopt is to crop with Potatoes in quarters that were used for Peas the previous season, give a good manuring, and throw up in ridges roughly the exact width I purpose planting the following year. When the planting season arrives I level the soil between the ridges, plant the Potatoes, and fork soil over them. — John Short, Hummer slcnott, Darlington. 1. Second week in February, second week in March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, ’Myatt’s Ashleaf, and Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Light, on a sandy bottom. 2. Last week in March, inter¬ national, ’Late Rose, and King of Potatoes. 3. Third week in April. *Magnum Bonum, ’Schoolmaster, and ’Scotch Champion. Soil— These we plant in the field, the soil being medium on a clay bottom. Manures and Application. — Having a good supply of stable manure I use no other. For garden crops I prefer spreading it on. the surface, and digging it in for other crops to follow as soon as the early Potatoes are lifted. The second earlies I plant in rows 4 feet apart ; this allows plenty of room for one row of Brussels Sprouts or Broccoli in between the Potatoes, which I find do very well. — JOHW Birch, Windlestone Hall, Ferry Bill, Co. Durham. 1. November to March and April. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal, and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium on limestone. 2. November to April. Schoolmaster, Fortyfold, and Dalmahoy. 3. November to April. Lapstone, Regents, Victoria, and 174 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 1, 1883. Rocks. Manures and Application. — Chiefly horse manure and vege¬ table matter. Cultural Remarks. — As to culture, I find no difference as to whether the manure is dug in autumn or at the time when planting if the ground is dry any time through the winter. I prefer to plant early, before the tubers begin to grow. — R. Draper, Seaham Hall , Sunderland. plants. Cuttings may be obtained by pruning a few plants back and placing them in heat, and they will produce abundance of cuttings. They will strike freely in bottom heat without a bell- glass. If encouraged and attended to they will make fine plants by winter. — C. Stephens, jun. Essex. — 1. February as early as weather permits. Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Uxbridge Kidney, and *French Shaws. Soil. — Light. 2. Early in March. *Dalmahoy, Schoolmaster and *Dunbar Regent. 3.. End of March or early in April. ^Victoria, *Magnum Bonum, *White Ele¬ phant, and *Champion. Manures and Application. — All our Potatoes receive farmyard manure and guano occasionally. We place the early Potatoes for the garden one layer thick in shallow boxes, and place the boxes in a cool vinery or similar structure. The field culture consists of farmyard manure and guano, 3 cwts. per acre. Cultural remarks. — Various artificial manures have been tried, and we have always come back again to guano. Good crops have been obtained by sowing the ground with Rye and ploughing it in before the Rye is ready to cut. — Jas. Douglas, l.oxford Hall , Ilford , Essex. 1. First or second week in March. Old Ashleaf, *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and Early Rose. Soil. — Light sandy loam. Plants in ridges 2 feet apart, and 18 inches from set to set. 2. Last week in March. *Snowflake, *Rector of Woodstock, Porter’s Excelsior, and Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — Medium loam. Ridges 2 feet 6 inches apart, 20 inches from set to set. 3. First week in April. *Dunbar Regent, *Victoria Regent, *York Regent, and Schoolmaster. Soil. — Medium loam. Manures and Application. — Old tan, leaf soil, or old hotbeds, or any other light substance placed over the sets. It is very desirable that the ground should be well worked and kept in a light state previous to planting, as that will assist early ripening, and the earlier the Potatoes are harvested the better, as there is less chance of disease. — Robert Castle, Orsett Hall, Romford. A LIGHT TREE-MOVING MACHINE. When about to commence moving some shrubs a few years ago we were considering the best means of conveying them to their new quarters, when we remembered an old mowing machine, which was at once utilised. The machine was one of a very old pattern, made thirty or forty years ago, the rollers of which, to our advantage, are a few inches higher than they are made at the present time. In the first place we stripped the machine of everything but the handles and rollers. A square piece of sound oak was secured with binding wire across the front of it, just above where the front rollers had been removed. Two 15-feet mason’s planks were then laid on the top of the machine, resting on the piece of wood at the front, and nailed to it, and on the cross bars of the handles behind. At the end they were secured together by nailing a piece of wood across to form handles to hold and guide it by. The sketch (fig. 50) is a side view of machine as now used. We find the planks are too heavy, and mean some day to get a stout larch pole fitted up something similar to that repre¬ sented in outline. Two cross pieces and a 9-inch board, laid PANICLM PLICATUM. For those who are not overstocked with small Palms and wish for a plant with handsome and graceful foliage I would recommend Panicum plicatum. It is a Grass of the easiest culture, the usefulness of which for decorative purposes can scarcely be over-estimated. A pinch of seed sown in August in a warm house and pricked off, five in a 6-inch pot, made what looked like single plants 3 feet high and as much through by De¬ cember, and when used for decoration in the mansion was very much admired. Its leaves are about 2 feet long, and 3 inches broad in the widest part, beautifully plicated or folded length¬ wise, and bent sickle-shape, so as to fall grace¬ fully all round the pot. The folds in the leaves make it appear to have several shades, varying from a very light to a dark green colour. It is, I think, best treated as an annual, and sown in successional batches. I intend growing it by hundreds. It seems to me not very particular about tem¬ perature, but a friend living in Co. Meath who recommended it to me, says he tried it outside there during the last summer, and it was not satisfactory. It is, however, worth a trial in sheltered situations in the south of England. — Wm. Taylor. CULTURE OF SOLANUM CAPSICASTRUM. These most useful plants are not so extensively grown as they deserve to be. I think that no other plant appears so bright in the conservatory during the dull winter months. I once saw some plants that had been grown in pots all the summer months, and in winter they had very few berries or leaves. In March they should be pruned, but not very closely if large specimens are re¬ quired. At the beginning of April they should be planted out in a sunny border that has been dug and manured. Allow them room according to their size, for if planted too thickly together they will lose their leaves. From this time until they are lifted they must be well supplied with water, and occasionally with liquid manure. About the middle of September they should be lifted, taking care not to shake more soil ofE from the roots than is necessary, or probably they will lose their foliage. In the potting they should have good drainage, because they require abundance of water, using a compost of good loam and leaf soil. They should be placed by the side of a south wall for three weeks, sprinkling them when the sun is bright, not allowing them to flsg. When the frosts commence the plants should be removed to a shelf in a cool house where the berries can ripen, which will occur by Christmas or before. They can easily be obtained by seed, but I prefer cuttings, because they make the dwarfest and most bushy parallel to and level with the top side of the pole, will form a stage sufficient to carry the ball of soil. The thick end of the pole should be roughly squared to make it lie better and to facilitate the fitting of the stages. Anyone having an old mowing machine, and having planting to do, cannot possibly turn it to better account than use it for this purpose. Last autumn two men and a lad moved some shrubs from 8 to 10 feet high with less loss of time and labour than could have been done by any other plan I have yet seen tried. The shrubs are prepared in the ordinary way, only keeping the loose soil clear of one side of the plant. The ball is then tilted back on its side, the machine is brought forward with the rollers close to the edge of the hole, slipping the end of the stage under the ball by raising the handles. The ball is then brought back on to the machine. If the ball is sufficiently heavy to balance the top it may be carried to its destination in an upright position, simply sliding it along the planks (after having raised it to a horizontal position) till the man at the end of the pole can balance it. If the tree is a tall one, its head is brought back and lashed to the pole, which generally brings the weight about right. The shrub is deposited in the new hole with the same ease, by bringing the rollers to the edge of the hole in the same way. The moving from one place to another is easy, whether on road or turf, a rope being attached to the front part of the machine to draw it by.— R. Inglis. EARLY FLOWERS. Quite a large posy may now be picked from shrubs and plants in the open air. Erica carnea is in full beauty, its bright rosy pink flowers brightening the garden more than any other plant just now. We have planted it by the hundred in many places — in bold masses among the collection of hardy Heaths, in perennial March 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 175 flower borders, among shrubs, and in rock beds. All have done fairly well, but those growing among the rocks are remarkable for a vigour and beauty greatly exceeding all the others ; for there the single plants have become huge cushions upwards of 2 feet in diameter, each being now a mass of blossom that is very striking. Erica codonoides is equally beautiful in its way ; the tall tapering cones of lively green, so soft, full, and compact, are charmingly crowned with thousands of pretty pink and white flowers, and the general effect is so refined that it would prove no unworthy associate of the best Cape Heaths. E. mediterranea, on the con¬ trary, though its flowers are fully open, has become so loose and straggling in appearance, and the colour of its flowers is so tame, that they only attract us by the sweet scent, which is certainly an important redeeming property. Berberis Darwinii and B. japonica are both in flower, the first partially, and the other fully. Andromeda floribunda has many of its pretty white Heath-like flowers open ; Mahonia, too, is almost in full bloom. Rhododendron Nobleanum coccineum has a few open flowers, which are comparatively dull-looking beside the brilliant carmine hue of the unopened flowers. The colour of the outside of its petals is so brilliant that it is very attractive when the flower buds become prominent. I have recently made a special nook for this and some other early-blooming varieties. Ceanothus rigidus is fast bursting into bloom ; some of the Ribes are almost as forward, and among flowers of lowlier growth there are Wallflowers, Cowslips, Primroses, and Omphalodes, while Gen- tiana acaulis has also actually a few flowers nearly fully developed. These results of the mild winter, which I observed on February 13th, appear sufficiently remarkable to be recorded in the Journal. We that live in the south, with all our benefits of climate, do not often enjoy such immunity from frost and snow as in the present winter ; even the aquatic plants are already starting, the Arrow¬ head being especially remarkable for its half-grown leaves, and there are several perfect flowers of Aponogeton in one of the ponds.— Edward Luckhukst. We have received a communication from “ Delta ” for the information of Mr. Elwes, to the effect that “ the failure in Gladioli is not a matter of the last few years only, it has been going for the last twenty years. As far back as that I had nearly my whole collection swept off, and had almost abandoned their culture, while very many whom I have known to have for a time grown them have been forced to abandon them owing to their heavy losses. It is possible the exceptional seasons we have lately had may have aggravated the failure, but it is not a thing of yesterday.” - Mr. B. S. Williams of Upper Holloway sends us flowers of Primula sinensis fimbriata alba and rubra, two very fine strains, distinguished by the great size of the blooms, the purity of the white, and the richness of the purple variety. The plants are also of good habit, as we have frequently seen them. - The schedule of the Rochdale Auricula Society announces that the Exhibition this year will be held in the Public Hall, Baillie Street, Rochdale, on Wednesday, May 2nd. Fifteen classes are provided for all the different sections of Auriculas, Show, Alpine, and Fancy, together with Polyanthuses. - Mr. H. G. Smyth, 17a, Coal Yard, Drury Lane, is now sending out the beautiful Border Carnation Mary Morris, which was awarded a first-class certificate by the Royal Horti¬ cultural Society on the 22nd of August last year. This variety has large but neat, clear, rose-pink flowers, which are produced in great freedom, and a bed of plants we saw last year was literally “ a mass of blooms,” so abundant were they. Either for cutting or as a border plant it is most valuable. - Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons have now a fine display of Orchids at Chelsea, a large number of handsome species and varieties being in flower. Particularly attractive are the Phalm- nopsids, some scores of spikes of the grand P. Schilleriana producing an unrivalled effect in one of the houses, P. grandiflora and P. Stuartiana being also in good condition, and contribute to the beauty of the display. With these may also be noted the free-flowering Angrsecum citratum, which in small pots and pans are bearing abundance of spikes of creamy white flower*. This is unquestionably one of the most useful members of the genus, though not so striking as A. sesquipedale, which is also flowering well. Amongst the Dendrobes very noticeable is the charming D. splendidissimum, the Chelsea hybrid, which is so closely related to D. Ainsworthii ; indeed, it appears that there is no perceptible difference between D. Ainsworthii roseum and D. splendidissimum, both are alike distinguished by the rich crimson lip and their free- flowering qualities. A new Bornean species, D. Curtisii, is worth a note, the flowers being small, white, with an orange spot on the lip, and produced on very slender growths. It is very distinct, and of dwarf habit. - A number of superb varieties of Cattleya TriAnh3 are flowering, ranging from pure white to some with the richest crimson labellums. This grand Orchid is one of the most useful of the genus, and is especially valuable for winter flowering. The new C. labiata Percivaliana is also represented, some of the flowers being highly coloured. Cypripediums are in strong force, those of the Sedeni type, C. calurum and C. porphyreum, being very fine. The last named is a beautiful hybrid, with deep rosy lips and shorter petals than C. calurum, which has also more green in the dorsal sepal. C. Boxalli, with its dark-blotched shining flowers ; C. marmorophyllum, with its deep purplish- tinted flowers ; and C. vernixium, a hybrid between C. villosum and C. Harrisianum, having purplish petals, greenish sepals, and a pale brown lip, are all well displaying their respective charac¬ ters. Amongst the cool-house Orchids Odontoglossums Alexandras, Pescatorei, triumphans, Cervantesii, Rossii, biandum, cirrhosum, prasnitens, and maculatum are represented by diverse and hand¬ some varieties, with several Oncidiums, Masdevallias, &c. Remark¬ able, too, is Sophronitis grandiflora, of which one of the largest flowered and richest coloured varieties is growing on a small block a few inches square, and suspended from the roof of the house. - In order to stimulate the production of new early Peas and high quality, and also to test the value of Mr. Laxton’s latest effort in this direction, Messrs. Hooper & Co. of Covent Garden offer the following special prizes to be competed for at the Royal Horticultural Society’s Meeting at South Kensington on May 22nd next — viz., “for two dishes of early Peas, one of them to be Laxton’s Earliest of All, first prize, £3 ; second, 30s. ; third, 15s. Each dish to consist of twenty-five pods, and the trade mark of the seed packet of Earliest of All must be placed on the exhibit as a proof of its genuineness. Intending exhibitors will please make a note of this announcement, as it is not inserted in the Society’s schedule.” - Relative to the winters in America, a correspondent writing to us from the State of Wisconsin on the 5th inst. re¬ marks : — “ We are having a very severe winter. The thermometer has for some time past been ranging between 10° and 35° below zero. This morning it is 28° below zero.” - Mr. Edward Mawley, of Addiscombe, Croydon, has issued the annual edition of his work on the weather in the neighbourhood OF London. It contains seventy-five pages of clearly printed tables and miscellaneous observations for every day in the past year, comprising barometric variations, temperature, wind, and rain, compared with those of an average year. These are accompanied by a novel diagram showing the variations of the 176 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 1, 1883. weather during 1882, barometric temperature, proportion of cloud, humidity, rainfall, and, together with the increase or decrease of general mortality in London, zymotic diseases and diseases of the respiratory organs. The work contains much information useful to all interested in meteorology. It is published by Mr. E. Stanford, Charing Cross. - The schedule of the Glasgow and West of Scotland Hoeticultueal Society is issued, and announces the Spring Show for March 28th, and the Autumn Show for September the 5th. At the first prizes will be offered in sixty-three classes, chiefly for forced and spring-flowering plants, while at the other 135 classes are provided for plants, flowers, fruits, and vegetables, - Relative to Oechids at Deumlaneig, a correspondent informs us that the remarks on page 159 were not too com¬ mendatory, as since the visit of Mr. Wright a spike of Odonto- glossum Alexandra has flowered. “ The spike was 3 feet in height, and bore thirty -four flowers, ranging from 3^ to 3| inches in diameter, the variety being of great excellence. The next largest of the same form was the Trentham example with twenty- seven flowers.” We have learned that the splendid spike referred to was sent to Mr. Henry Stevens to be photographed. - The following circular, which we readily insert, will shortly be issued by Mr. E. S. Dodwell relative to holding a sup¬ plementary Caenation and Picotee Show at Slough during the ensuing summer : — “ Stanley Road, Oxford, Eeb. 24th, 1883. “ Dear Sir, — It has been suggested to me that as the Supplementary Exhibition of the National Carnation and Picotee Society, held in this city last year, was a mark of attention to myself, a similar Ex¬ hibition should this year be held on July 31st in the grounds of the Royal Nursery, Slough, as a recognition of the work and worth of Mr. Turner. The suggestion has been submitted to Mr. Turner, and I am happy to say accepted by him, and I have now therefore very respectfully to beg your aid and co-operation in making the meeting worthy of the place and the man. Thirty-four years since (1849) Mr. Turner commemorated his entrance into occupation of the Royal Nursery with the largest and finest display of Carnations and Picotees I had up to that time seen, besides providing funds for a competition in which he took no part. In the next year the first of the celebrated trial exhibitions (northern versus southern-raised flowers), instituted to dispel the vain notion then promulgated that there was a cardinal difference in the flowers of north and south respectively, took place in the same grounds ; and in the year thereafter (1851) the first exhi¬ bition of the National Carnation and Picotee Society itself. I aspire to make the proposed meeting worthy of its predecessors, and hope, though the competition be confined to Carnations and Picotees , the friends gathering together will not be limited to the growers and ad¬ mirers of those flowers only, but will include the much larger number who have known, admired, and sympathised with Mr. Turner’s work. A subscription list has been opened for the purpose of providing funds for the needful prizes, and any aid you may give will be grate¬ fully appreciated. Begging an early reply, I am, dear Sir, your faithful servant, E. S. Dodwell.” The following subscriptions have been already promised : — John T. D. Llewelyn, £5 5s. ; C. Turner, £5 5s. ; E.S. Dodwell, £5 5s. ; J. McIntosh, £3 3s.; J. Douglas, £1 Is.; Shirley Hibberd, £1 Is.; H. M. Hewitt, 10s. 6d. ; Samuel Brown, 10s. Gd. - The thirty-second annual Exhibition of the Oxfobd Rose Society will be held at Headington Hill Park, Oxford, on Tuesday, July 10th. days a list of the articles and an estimate of the space they will occupy to Mr. William Marriott, Assistant Secretary, 30, Great George Street, Westminster, S.W. - Among the smaller kinds of epiphytal Orchids the little Madagascar rarity, Angb^ecum citeatum, is, indeed, a gem. Two plants of it are at present in flower in the College Botanic Gardens, Dublin. The little plant is of a very dwarf habit ; the gracefully curving flower scape is from 12 to 15 inches long, which, for the greater portion of its length, is furnished with a sym¬ metrically arranged double row of pure white flowers, each with a proportionally long spur, the double row of spurs below corre¬ sponding with those of the flowers above, and enhancing the beauty of the flower scape. The plant is a native of Madagascar, from whence it was introduced by Messrs. Yeitch & Son. It is as yet rare in collections ; but no choice collection of these plants should be without it. Mr. Burbidge’s plants are growing and flowering in extremely small, shallow pans suspended from the roof. — ( Irish Farmers' Gazette.') - We have received from Messrs. Cassell, Petter & Galpin a packet of their serial publications — Part 10 of the Illustrated Booh of Canaries and Cage Birds; Part 30 of Paxton's Flower Garden , containing good plates of Cattleya pallida and Cantua buxifolia ; Part 48 of Familiar Garden Flowers ; and Part 71 of Familiar Wild Flowers. — — The monthly meeting of the Meteobological Society, held on the 21st inst., Mr. J. K. Laughton, F.R.A.S., President, in the chair, Rev. W. R. C. Adamson, R. P. Coltman, W. F. Gwinnell, Capt. C. S. Hudson, T. Mann, F. G. Treharne, and W. Tyson were balloted for and elected Fellows, and the following papers were read : — 1, “ Notice of a Remarkable Land Fog Bank, ‘ The Larry,’ that Occurred at Teignmouth on October 9th, 1882,” by G. W. Ormerod, M.A., F.M.S. The “ Larry ” is a dense mass of rolling white land fog, and is confined to the bottom of the Teign valley, differing therein from the sea fog, which rises above the tops of the hills. It appears about daybreak, and has an undulating but well-defined upper edge, which leaves the higher part of the hill sides perfectly clear. The author gives an account, illustrated by photographs, of the remarkable fog bank that occurred at Teign¬ mouth on the morning of October 9th. 2, “ Barometric Depres¬ sions between the Azores and the Continent of Europe,” by Capt. J. C. de Brito Capello, Hon. Mem. M.S. The author gives the tracks of several depressions from the Azores to Europe, and shows that if there had been a telegraphic cable nearly every one of them could have been foretold in England. 3, “Weather Forecasts and Storm Warnings on the Coast of South Africa,” by Capt. C. M. Hepworth, F.M.S. 4, “ Note on the Reduction of Barometric Readings to the Gravity of Latitude 45°, and its Effect on Secular Gradients and the Calculated Height of the Neutral Plane of Pressure in the Tropics,” by Prof. E. D. Archi¬ bald, M.A., F.M.S. - In supporting a resolution for the abolition of extbA- oedinaey tithes at a recent meeting at Greenhithe, Mr. Albert Bath described this tithe as an obnoxious burden which pressed severely on farmers, especially in Kent and Sussex, as the more capital they expended on fruit, hops, and market garden grounds, the more tithe they had to pay. The Anti -extraordinary Tithe Association proposed abolition of this tithe by three to seven years’ purchase, but he found some difficulty in that way. There was capital to raise, also value in different parishes to estimate. He would suggest that they go back to the settlement at the time of the commutation of 1836, ascertain the amount of extraor¬ dinary tithes charged in each parish at that time, and spread the total amount over the whole of the land in the parish, and in this manner get out the field apportionment of the ordinary tithe, - The Council of the Meteorological Society having de¬ termined upon holding at the Institution of Civil Engineers, 25, Great George Street, S.W., on the evening of March 21st next, an Exhibition of Meteobological Insteuments which have been designed for or used by travellers and explorers, the Ex¬ hibition Committee invite co-operation, as they are anxious to obtain as large a collection as possible of such instruments. The Committee will be glad to show any new meteorological apparatus invented or first constructed since last March, as well as photo¬ graphs and drawings possessing meteorological interest. Anyone willing to forward exhibits are invited to submit within fourteen JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 1, 1883 ] and levy the extraordinary tithe at so much in the shilling, so that poor land only bore a fair proportion. The extraordinary tithe would then cease to exist, it being merged in the ordinary tithe. It should then be compulsory on the part of the landowner to pay ordinary tithes, which would be in accordance with the intention of the Commutation Act, of course having due regard to existing leases. The resolution was carried unanimously. THE YEW AS A HEDGE PLANT. In “Work for the Week,” on page 99, February 1st, of this Journal, is an account of planting hedges, and mention is made of the above shrub or evergreen. I can fully endorse what is there said as to its adaptability “ for formal hedges in the pleasure ground.” At Holme Lacy, Hereford, such hedges may be seen, and are con¬ sidered the finest of their kind in the country. Some of the hedges are upwards of two hundred years of age, and others of from ten to fifteen years, and the latter have been for years models of beauty. If strong plants can be procured it does not take very long to make a good hedge. The system there practised is to grow the young plants on from the first, preparing them, as it were, for the future hedge. The tops are never cut back, but the side growths are cut in to make the plants compact. When the plants have grown to about 4 or 5 feet high they are taken to their final place, and there planted in a single row, planting them so that they touch each other, as it is found the best hedges are formed by planting in single rows. Be they Yews or Hollies, the ground is well trenched for their reception. They are left to grow on, and the tops are not cut until they reach the desired height, but the straggling side branches are cut back before growth commences in the spring. The permanent hedges are trimmed once a year, commencing the first or second week in August. The Yew is a very accommodating plant, as if any hedge has been left to grow wild for years the branches may be cut close in to the main stem, when they will start afresh and form a close wall of green. — A. Young. AN AMATEUR'S HOLIDAY. DUNDEE. On the way south from Aberdeen I stopped at Dundee, and at the warehouse of Messrs. Laird & Sinclair I learned from a friend the whereabouts of a few nurseries in the vicinity. The very large trade done by the firm in Hyacinths, Tulips, and other spring flowers was evident from the unusual quantities of bulbs then dis¬ played in the shop. I afterwards went to Broughty Ferry, where the smaller of the two nurseries of the firm is situated. There I saw some good Dahlias and Hollyhocks ; one or two seedlings of the latter were fine. There was also a very promising collection of Chrysanthemums, and in one of the houses a healthy batch of Primulas. I believe the main purpose of this limited enclosure is the supply of small plants and cut flowers for the city. The principal grounds of the firm are at Monifieth, five miles from Dundee. I walked on to these, and on the way enjoyed a visit to the two nurseries afterwards noticed. The grounds at Monifieth, but for the usual intimation over the entrance, I would at first sight have almost inferred to be those of a private residence. Neatness in arrangement and good order prevailed throughout all I saw. Of the twenty acres a large space is occupied by forest and fruit trees. There was also an extensive lot of Boses and a select assortment of herbaceous plants, among which I observed Campanula nobilis alba with large blooms and of dwarf habit. I was particularly pleased with a fine collection of summer-flowering Chrysanthemums, many of which were very beautiful. The nursery of Messrs. John Stewart & Sons adjoins Broughty Ferry, and extends over fifty acres. The trade in forest trees, Rho¬ dodendrons, and ornamental shrubs is very large. In the houses were large collections of table plants and Ferns. Pelargoniums for cutting were grown in great numbers, and single Dahlias in pots to supply cut blooms a month or two later. There was also in the grounds a large break of show Dahlias in very good flower, and spring-flowering plants are extensively grown. Under the name of W. & D. Stewart at Ferndown Nurseries, Wimborne, the same firm carries on a large business in the exportation of forest trees to America, where a representative is permanently kept, and where Mr. Stewart himself, I understand, mainly resides. Through these grounds I pushed on to Dalhousie Nursery, that of Messrs. D. & W. Croll. Here I found Boses very largely grown ; to these in the various forms a large part of the ten acres in the nursery is devoted. The 15,000 for next supply were in fine condition ; the growth in many cases very vigorous. Magna 177 Charta, for instance, had shoots upwards of 7 feet in length. The seedling Briar is a favourite stock. I saw a very large collection of Teas, and there they seemed to thrive well in the open air. I also noticed in a house one of those glass partitions which I formerly mentioned as having been generally adopted at Fedall. I was very sorry that I could not devote more time to these three establishments, where there was much more to interest than I have indicated. PERTH; Through the Carse o’ Gowrie I reached Perth. During previous visits to St. Johnstone I had been unable to look in on a place well known by name, and was resolved on this occasion not to miss the nursery of Messrs. Dickson & Turnbull. My visit gave me much pleasure, as I there found many plants to my taste. Special attention is directed to Conifers, American and deciduous plants and shrubs, in which an extensive business is done. The Palms and Orchids in the houses were glanced at to devote the hour at disposal to the outdoor departments that more attracted me. I can merely enumerate a few where so many were exten¬ sively grown. Spring flowers were largely represented, such as Primroses and Polyanthuses in variety, Hepaticas, including a batch of the double blue, and breaks of spring bulbs. Carnations, Picotees and Pinks, double Pyre thrums, and the fullest stock of Pceonies I have seen ; Liliums, Saxifrages in great numbers and numerous varieties, a very exhaustive collection of alpine and rock plants combined to entice to another and a more lengthened call. Here again I saw Campanula nobilis alba, a variety to be kept in mind. In conformity with present taste single Dahlias could not be overlooked, and a number of seedlings were in capital flower. Much more admired was the collection of Roses, mainly on Manetti and seedling Briar. The Teas in pots were really good. There was also a large space occupied by the true old Scotch Bose, now seldom seen to such an extent. I was not in the least surprised to find a collection of Gladioli. But of all that 1 saw nothing pleased me more than the large collection of hardy Heaths. Many of the sorts were new to me, and I was delighted with their beauty and varied forms. For the foreground of a mixed border nothing could, in my opinion, be more desirable. I reserve allusion to two other places I visited, as they bear more especially upon a topic on which I may before long ask leave to make some remarks. The memory of uniform kindness experienced during my last holiday is brightened yet more by the genial welcome accorded in this my last visit to such establish¬ ments as that of Messrs. Dickson & Turnbull. To all whom I was privileged to meet, for privilege I deem it, to come in contact with gentlemen such as, let me assure “ Excelsior,” I met every¬ where, in hope that we may meet again, sincere thanks are once more gratefully tendered by — A Northern Amateur. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM ELECTION. TOO-MUCH-ALIKE VARIETIES. A Chrysanthemum election is not only novel in itself, but it is to be hoped that it may prove useful in removing the confusion which exists in the nomenclature of the varieties. In the follow¬ ing notes I give my opinion, founded on a long experience, of the varieties bracketed in your returns. I trust others of experience will do the same, and during the forthcoming season especially note the varieties ; so that if the Editor will only ask for another election next year we may then be able to show that a clearer understanding exists. One great cause of so much confusion is no doubt due to the readiness of one grower to assist another, and who sends a collection of cuttings through the post ; the labels get confused, and so the mistake is perpetuated. Some¬ times vendors are not to be relied upon, but it is to be hoped that the analysis and the subsequent papers which must of necessity follow will do much in clearing up this matter. The word “ petal” is used here instead of “ floret,” as it is more generally understood. Mr. Bunn and Golden Beverley are very distinct in colour and formation of petal. The former has the colour of Jardin aes Plantes with the petals of Mrs. Dixon. The foliage of Mr. Bunn and Golden Beverley are precisely the same, Mr. Bunn being a much-improved sport from Golden Beverley. Miss Mary Morgan and Pink Perfection are identical in both flower and foliage. John Salter and Mr. Howe are also identical, and the same may be said of Empress of India and Lady St. Clair, Empress of India and Mrs. Cunningham. Golden Queen and Emily Dale are too closely allied to be admitted on the same board. St. Patrick and Beethoven, Refulgence and Inner Temple are identical. Mr. G. Bundle is coupled with Mrs. Parnell, but the last variety I do not know. Mrs. Dixon and Golden George Glenny are identical. Mrs. G. Rundle first produced a primrose sport, which was named 178 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 1, 1883. Mr. G. Glenny ; in the following year a golden sport, which was named Mrs. Dixon, and is still known in some parts as Golden Mr. G. Glenny. Barbara and Baraba : this last I have never grown, but I have found that the early buds of Barbara differ in colour from the later flowers, and perhaps the names have been applied to the different stages. Prince of Wales and Lord Derby are very distinct in foliage and build of flower. Empress of India and Snowball are identical. Bobert James, General Bainbrigge, and Beauty of Stoke : the first-named I have never grown, but the last two, as I have grown them, are distinct. Empress of India and White Globe are very distinct both in flower and foliage. Golden Empress of India and Emily Dale are distinct. Prince Alfred and Lord Wolseley are distinct in colour ; the latter is a sport from the former, but not yet in commerce, and ought not to have been named. Princess of Wales and Mrs. Heales : if these two are distinct, they are so closely allied in every particular that they ought not to be admitted in a stand of twelve varieties ; in fact two flowers have been known to have been cut from the same plant and shown under both names. Inner Temple and Aregina are distinct, but the last has frequently been sold under the former name. Em¬ press of India, White Queen, and Mrs. Cunningham are identical. Lady Slade and Lady Hardinge are very distinct in habit of growth, form of flower, and colour. Venus and Hetty Barker are distinct. Mrs. G. Bundle and Mount Edgcumbe : the last-named I have not grown, but it is singular that Mrs. G. Bundle was raised very near Mount Edgcumbe. Empress Eugdnie and Pink Perfection are quite distinct. John Salter and Angelina are very distinct in form and colour of flower, as well as in foliage and habit of growth. Princess Beatrice and Lady Slade are quite distinct. Canary and Canary Cherub are identical, as are also Queen of England and Blush Queen. St. Patrick and Golden Eagle are distinct. Mr. Brunlees and Mr. Jay are very distinct ; the last has quite a quilled petal. Empress of India, Virgin Queen, and Vesta are all distinct, the last-named being reflexed. Jardin des Plantes and Mr. Bunn are distinct in size and shape of flower and foliage. Princess of Wales, Princess Teck, Le Grande, Mrs. Heales, and Countess of Granville are all distinct, except the first-named and Mrs. Heales. Venus, Lady Slade, Mrs. Sharpe, and Beauty are all distinct in both colour of flowers and foliage. Barbara, Mr. Brunlees, and Golden Eagle are all distinct from each other. Pink Venus, Pink Perfection, and Lady Hardinge all distinct in form of flower and foliage. Mr. G. Glenny and Emily Dale are very distinct. Bev. C. Boys and Inner Temple are distinct, but the first is sometimes sold for the latter. Mabel Ward and Angelina are perfectly dis¬ tinct ; the first is a sport from Eve, the latter from Lady Slade. Venus and Countess of Dudley, Baron Beust and Orange Perfec¬ tion are all distinct. Oliver Cromwell and Mr. Evans, Golden Eagle and Orange Perfection are identical. Prince of Wales and Mr. Corbay are distinct in colour of flower, the last-named a sport from the first. Lord Wolseley, Incognito, and Mabel' Ward — a strange combination — are all distinct ; as also are Mrs. Dixon and Aureum Multi florum. All the following are distinct : — John Salter and Baron Beust, Mrs. G. Bundle and Duchess of Manchester, White Beverley and Blonde Beauty, Hero of Stoke Newington and Novelty, Isabella Bott and Empress of India, Befulgence and Prince of Wales, White Venus and White Beverley, Mr. G. Glenny and Guernsey Nugget, Mrs. Bundle and Mrs. Shipman, Mr. G. Glenny and Golden Empress of India, Golden Queen of England and Golden Empress of India, Isabella Bott and Lady Hardinge, Novelty and Beauty, Mr. G. Glenny and Mrs. Dixon. That seventy-seven electors should have named seventy-seven varieties as worthy of a place in the first twelve is astonishing, and if space could only be spared in some future issue it would be interesting if the lists of the best twelve from each elector could be published. The high position that Jardin des Plantes attained is surprising. Its colour is magnificent, but the form is generally bad, and is rarely seen in a collection of twelve varie¬ ties. It is curious to note the relative positions of Princess Teck and Hero of Stoke Newington — two varieties only differing in colour of the flower. The first-named only received twenty-seven first-class votes, while the latter received forty-one ; yet with the second-class votes thirty -nine and twenty -one respectively. Prin¬ cess Teck has a total of sixty-six to sixty-two, or four more than her parent. The colour of Hero of Stoke Newington is most desirable, but I have a weakness for the daughter, Princess Teck, and named her instead. This, together wTith my reluctance to place Mrs. Heales on the same stand as Princess of Wales, places me in a minority as to naming the best twelve varieties. Mr. Bunn received fifty-six votes and Golden Beverley nine¬ teen, and yet in the too-much-alike varieties twenty-two electors bracket them together. This is singular. White Beverley re¬ ceived twenty-one votes and Beverley ten, but they are only one variety. The same remarks apply to Venus and Pink Venus, the term “ pink ” being merely added by some to more readily dis¬ tinguish them from the other sports from the same parent. In conclusion, the thanks of all growers are due to the Editor for the trouble this election has given him. All will benefit by its results, and a better system of nomenclature must necessarily be obtained.— J. W. Moorman. GLADIOLI. Nothing can be further from the truth than the statement vouchsafed to “W. J. M. ” (see page 157), that Mr Banks’s Gladioli were left in the ground all the winter. Indeed, as I have seen those initials in the Journal for a number of years, the owner of them might have remembered that some years ago I gave a sketch of the very excellent stand which Mr. Banks had invented for storing his roots ; and I can only add that I have never seen except in France corms so carefully harvested as his — indeed they were exactly like Souchet’s in the silkiness of the outer skin, so that this finely built theory falls to the ground. Assuredly had Mr. Banks left his bulbs in the ground all the winter I should have said so : but perhaps “ W. J. M.” will recollect that this has been the advice tendered by some of our best gardeners, although I do not think the advice is sound. Fight against it as we may, I fear that my conclusions, whether it be disease, exhaustion, or degeneration, are none the less cor¬ rect ; that the growing of the choicer varieties of this beautiful flower are simply vanity and vexation of spirit ; and that those who indulge in it must make up their minds to a somewhat costly and disappointing hobby. I have lately received letters from two gentlemen who live in Somerset — Mr. Dobree, who has always taken the chief prizes in the shows of the west of England, and Mr. Marshall of Belmont, Taunton, a. very enthusiastic and successful horticulturist, and they both agree with my own experience. The former gentleman says that two years ago he expended £20 on them, and that he has hardly any of them left ; the latter, after buying all the new varieties for several years, has abandoned the practice, and he threw those he had into mixture, planting them in the borders, but with the same result, and that he has now hardly any of them left. Now in neither of these cases can ignorance be put down as the cause ; nor can it be climate, which is supposed to account for the success of Mr. Kelway’s culture, for they are but a few miles from Langport. The idea has been hazarded by Mr. Elwes, who as a grower of bulbs and all kinds of garden plants is well entitled to be regarded as an authority, that we are to account for these losses by the exceptional character of the last few seasons. I fear that this cannot be regarded as sufficient reason, although wet autumns may tend to aggravate the malady ; but it is nearly twenty years since I lost almost entirely a collection of about three hundred bulbs of the then best named varieties, and the loss of many bulbs in the collections of all whom I have known has been a matter of yearly occurrence. It has been a matter of considerable pain to me to write as I have felt compelled to do on this subject. 1 greatly admire the flower and think it far superior to the Dahlia or Hollyhock, and as a florist would do all I could to encourage the growth of any flower, but I feel none the less that the whole truth ought to be told about it. The Hollyhock has in the same way been affected by a very fatal disease. Did Hollyhock growers hide the fact, even although it led to the discontinuance of their cultivation by a great number of persons 1 No : they were fain to confess their losses, to tell of the remedies they had tried, and to deplore the condition of their favourite flower ; so I have felt with regard to the Gladiolus, and I must leave it to others to judge of the cor¬ rectness of my views. My motives are, I am sure, simply those of one who wishes well to all lovers of our favourite pursuit. I have just been placing in pots a quantity of spawn of some of the leading sorts. These I look upon as the spes grcgis , and believe that some of them will give me good blooms during the ensuing season. This, as I have already stated, I believe to be the only way in which one can hope to keep up a collection, buying in if necessary good varieties which are sold at a moderate price, for I dare not look for a time when I should cease to grow this lovely autumn flower. — D., Deal. "ZYGOPETALUM MACKAYI. In reference to the true variety of this handsome Orchid men¬ tioned on page 159, last issue, Mr. F. W. Burbidge, Curator of March 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 179 the Trinity College Botanic Garden.®, Dublin, writes as follows : — “ The true large-flowered variety of Zygopetalum Mackayi has flowers 44 inches in diameter across the lower sepals. The lip is 2£ inches to 2| inches across, the pseudo-bulbs very large, the leaves 18 inches to 2 feet 6 inches in length. The spike is 2 feet 6 inches long, and bears about eight flowers. It was originally introduced to the Trinity College Botanic Gardens, Dublin, about 1825, and was named after Dr. Townshend Mackay, the founder and first director of that garden. It is the finest of all the varie¬ ties under the name, and no doubt the Drumlanrig plants are true. The woodcut, fig. 51, represents a plant of the Dublin variety, and will convey a good idea how much superior it is to the forms commonly seen under the above name. CHRYSANTHEMUMS from NOVEMBER to FEBRUARY. In compliance with your wish I send you a few lines as to the method of culture I adopted during the past season, by which Chrysanthemum flowers were produced from the last week in November to the first week in February, when some flowers sent to Fig. cl.— ZrGorETALUM Mackayi, Dublin variety. you were noticed in the Journal of Horticulture as being remark¬ ably bright and fresh. I see also in the same number of the Journal a notice of a bloom sent by Mr. R. P. Brotherston, which is the first the plant has produced, to we are in a fair way to having Chrysanthemum flowers all ihe year round. I grow about fifty varieties, comprising some of all the sections, and including some of the earliest as well as the latest sorts, and all receive the same general treatment. At the end of last March I put in the strongest cuttings I could get in 4-inch pots, about six in each pot. and placed them rna frame on a slight hotbed, and as soon as growth commenced 1 pinched out the tops, removing the pots to a cold frame as soon as the side shoots appeared, gradually inuring them to the air. Before the roots in the cutting pots had become matted together the plants were potted singly in 4-inch pots, and kept close for a few days, and as soon as the pots were filled with roots the plants were shifted into 6-inch pot®, each plant having three or four shoots, which were then pegged down and stopped at the rim of the pots. By the eDd of June the plants had from eight to ten shoots each, and they were then shifted into 8 inch and 11-inch pots, the former for the small- growing sorts and the latter for the larger kinds, but not stopping the sb. ots. The soil employed was good loam, horse dr ppings, leaf soil, and sand, four parts of the former to one part each of the three latter, using rather more leaf soil in the earlier stages. As 180 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 1, 1883. s00n as the shoots became a foot in length, four sticks were placed round the sides of each pot and a piece of twine run round, which made all safe till the end of August, when it could he seen what length the sticks would be required, and then they were per¬ manently staked. Liquid manure, composed of sewage and soot, was given when the flower buds appeared, and as often as the plants wanted watering, which, owing to the continuous rain, was not often, and sometimes it was given when the soil was already wet enough. The plants grew very tall and the buds were thinned according to the variety, some of the Pompons having little or no thinning. They were left out of doors till the end of October un¬ protected (though if there had been much frost they would have been laid down and covered with canvas), and were then removed to the conservatory, continuing the use of the liquid manure till a good number of flowers were open, which was the case by the end of November. The plants were well furnished with leaves down to the pots, and the last flowers were cut and the plants removed on the 13th of February. My Chrysanthemums are always required late, but this year they came, exceptionally so, which I attribute to the low situation, late striking, much rain, late housing, and not to late pinching as some might suppose. — C. C. C. REVIEW OF BOOK. Vines and Vine Culture. By Archibald F. Barron. London: 171, Fleet Street. Many works have been written on Vine culture, and, excellent as t e majority of these undoubtedly are, there has been ample room for ® and mor? compete volume on the “ prince of exotic fruits lrL+erS°n vf- others. ln the best position for accomplishing pn Dm ni Volk, ls experienced Superintendent of the Royal Horti- cultmal Society s Gardens at Chiswick. No gardener in the king- vaHeHpa eqUal fa°dltles for acquiring information on so many Ro f •Gl+lpeS’ and for testlnS various methods of culture, as Mr. ‘ in, . e £reat experimental garden that has been for so many V'S chaIge > and bemg observant m habits, patient in i!n d 4 f experiments, a skilful cultivator, and essentially prac- wlVaS a 0t 1ikeiy to, Produce a work otherwise than of great excellence. A perfect work on a subject that has to be regarded in *+ 1S not?n the power of any individual to produce, aft ai wr ff° fc ^ rate > and whlle the work before us does not practically unattainable standard of being absolutely « lit8 •’ WG .C/rt,alnly„d0 ™P ^ee with the author that it contains many imperfections, and is characterised by “ omissions ” of any substantial importance. A few imperfections, or such as appear so to us, will be pointed out with the object of their being considered in view of future editions, for a work of this kind will insure much more than a mere ephemeral popularity, and successive generations nvafwien^r^ and others interested in the Vine and its culture will avail themselves of the knowledge that is compressed in its pages. In scope, the author has embraced the widest possible range, for he commences with Noah and ends with “ John Downie,” (the new Brape of 1882) , and thus covers a period say of 4240 years. “ A great deal has happened during that time in connection with the Vine, and a. great deal is recorded in the 240 pages under notice. The historical chapter of eight pages is a model of condensation — the early cultivation of the \ me in Egypt is referred to, and the ancient historians Plato, Plmy, Theophrastus, and Strabo have been laid under contribution. The Grapes of Damascus “as large as pigeon’s eggs and bunches of 25 lbs. and 40 tbs. ” are cited, the introduction of the_f in® la^° England by the Romans, the establishment of vine- yard?’ that are enumerated, and the number of varieties recorded at different intervals are included, the subject being pursued until we find the Emperor Augustus, a.d.10, linked with Mr. Thomson of Galashiels over a bridge of 1863 years. The cultural, portion of the book naturally commences with pro¬ pagation, the different, methods being clearly described, and in most cases illustrated. Raising Vines by layers, cuttings, and from eyes, ad J}ave due attention, and full and sound instructions for budding, grafting, and inarching are given. ’ As we have had many inquiries of late (and, in fact, some are awaiting answers) on grafting Vines, we cannot do better than let our author answer them. On page 22 of the work is the annexed illustration (fig. 52), accompanied by the following remarks . The process of grafting may be performed in various ways, which be unnecessary to allude to here. The simplest and best is that represented by our figure — common whip-grafting. It does not matter how large the stem of the Vine may be, for, the graft being prepared, a corresponding portion of the stem is made bare, the requirement being to make as much inner bark fit to inner bark as possible, so that the sap or formative matter immediately below may mingle and become united. In this way it is that the union is effected, not by the fitting of bark to bark or wood to wood, however C?re i j ? .y may be joined together. The scion being affixed should be tied, on tightly with matting, and covered up with some mastic or grafting wax. Mastic l’Homme Lefort is the best material we have ever used. Clay and moss are objectionable, for this reason, that there being much moisture in the house, the graft, instead of forming an organic union, emits roots into the clay, &c., and so never unites with the stock. In about ten or twelve days after grafting, if the operation has been successful, the bud will have grown somewhat. The shoots left on the stock beyond the graft should now be checked and kept in subjection to the graft; and in about a month’s time the matting and wax should be removed, and the shoot treated as estab¬ lished. Vines grafted in this manner on strong stocks will grow 20 to 30 feet the first season, and produce the strongest possible wood ; and Vines of any size or of any age, if in a healthy condition, may be so operated upon. It is a capital plan of introducing a new variety into an established house.” As will be observed, the stock is permitted to grow somewhat freely before the scion is attached. The figure now given and method described show the thoroughly useful and practical nature of the work before us. The chapter on hybridising and raising Vines from seed shows with great clearness how the work of fertilisation must be performed, the magnified figures of the flower of the Vine being of great assist¬ ance in this respect ; at the same time a suggestive hint is given relative to “ varieties of Grapes sent out as distinct, which ultimately prove nothing but old sorts ” — namely, a little more vigour, which is inherent to a seedling Vine, and hence it produces larger fruit “for a time,” and the chances are “ a hundred to one against anything new being obtained,” except by careful and proper fertilisation. The author’s views on border-formation, soils. &c., are generally sound. As might be expected, he has no elaborate formula to sub¬ mit which can be considered in any way indispensable, but in a few words states what he considers to be the best compost, and advises the cultivator to “ get as near it as possible,” and not to despair if he cannot obtain the best turfy loam, as good Grapes can be grown in ordinarily fertile garden soil. The size of borders, inside versus outside borders, drainage, raised borders, and heated borders are dis¬ cussed, and not many persons will quarrel with the conclusions arrived at ; but on the matter of aerating borders with drain pipes it is a question if the author’s pupil, Mr. W. Taylor, has not almost exploded this method of sweetening and purifying the materials. See “ Vines at Longleat,” page 5. The reference to covering Vine borders with fermenting materials is fully too brief, seeing that so much injury has resulted both by covering too early and uncovering too soon. No exception can be taken to what is stated, but a dozen lines might be added with advantage. The observations on mulching, watering, and renovating old Vines are clear, concise, and satisfactory. Structures for Grape-growing are dealt with in the next chapter, and illustrations given. Mr. Barron attaches very little importance to particular angles, but observes with truth that very steep lean-to vineries are “ extremely sensitive ” to changes of temperature, and require great care in ventilation ; still, the houses should be adapted to the special requirements of each case, and these are indicated. In the chapter on heating Hood’s table for determining the length of piping for heating a structure is submitted, as affording, however, “ only an approximative idea.” Very approximative indeed is our remark on this, and quite as likely to mislead the inexperienced amateur as to aid him. Even the example quoted has a tendency in the former direction, because the data of an external temperature of 32° and a pipe temperature of 200° are not safe. A much lower external temperature must be provided against, and this, too, without heating the pipes so highly. No mistake, however, can be made if readers ignore the table and follow the author’s instructions in the last half dozen lines of the chapter. The chapters devoted to the planting of Vines and the general management of vineries, including forcing, temperature, ventilation, and moisture, are as good as can be written in the space they occupy, and here we may observe one of the merits of the book is its pithi¬ ness. Exception may possibly be taken by some readers to the sug¬ gestion that “ a temperature of about 60° will be sufficient until the Vines have started into growth,” not in the sense of denying that sufficiency, but, on the contrary, that temperature will be considered needlessly high by not a few. It is above the orthodox standard ; but heterodoxy in this matter is not always dangerous, as a famous gardener in one of the leading establishments in the kingdom habitually starts his Vines at the least 10° higher than the tempera¬ ture above indicated. Perhaps it amounts to the same thing as travelling by express or ordinary train, the one being quicker than the other, but both equally safe. Under the head of Pruning and Training, the different systems of training Vines are adverted to. The methods of pruning are repre¬ sented by several figures executed in outline, which will be useful to the uninitiated, and certainly not less so will some others that cannot fail to make the important matter of stopping the growths in summer clear to all. The remarks on shortening the young canes the first season after planting “ as low as you can, as leaving a good long rod on a young Vine is in many cases the commencement of the road to ruin,” will not find universal acceptance ; but bearing in mind the qualifying words “in many cases,” the assertion is true. The chapter on disbudding and summer dressing is one of the best in the book ; in fact, we should find it difficult to point out any treatise where so much sound and valuable matter is conveyed in such few words. The necessary conditions for setting the fruit are plainly stated, high night temperatures being considered of less importance than a high sun temperature under otherwise suitable conditions, such as March i, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 181 early ventilation for drying the pollen as soon as possible for insuring its dispersion ; artificial aids for effecting this are also noted. The author has left us little to find fault with thus far, but we are quite unable to pass the chapter on thinning the fruit with unquali¬ fied approval. With the author’s remarks we find no fault whatever, but we_ cannot regard the figui-e on page 93 of the volume as re¬ presenting a “ properly thinned ” bunch. This being an educational subject we are bound to point out the faults of this specimen. It is impossible for a bunch so thinned to be well furnished and well balanced. In the first place too many berries are removed from the upper side of the top shoulders. This is a common mistake. It is there, if anywhere, that the Grapes have room to swell, and sufficient should always be left to curl back, as it were, and hide the stalk as much as possible, as in plates i. and vi. of the work. It is impossible that this desideratum can be accomplished by the removal of so many “ top berries.” Again, while the two upper shoulders are of the same length in the engraving, and originally contained an equal number of berries, in one shoulder they are reduced to four, while on the other six are retained. This may appear to some persons a small matter to mention, but if we look at the branchlets immediately below ive find the one under the shoulder with four berries only contains two, while on that under the shoulder with six berries five are left ; or together six are shown on one side of the bunch and eleven on the other. Such a bunch cannot be evenly and well shouldered ; and the lower part is also faulty, as one side, the light-shouldered side by the way, contains — from the two top branchlets indicated to the point — eleven berries, while on the opposite side from the same point there are only seven. This method of thinning can have only one result — an irregular bunch, and the work is also shown as roughly performed. All the figure does is to give an idea of the number of berries that should be removed. In this respect it is suggestive, and we can only say that those who have Grapes to thin should endeavour to improve on the example shown as much as possible. The bunch has evidently been hurriedly thinned, has not been well selected, nor has the figure been well executed for the purpose it was designed to serve. An illustrated chapter is devoted to keeping the fruit, followed by one on packing Grapes for market and exhibition. The requisite details are given on growing, fruiting, and forcing Vines in pots, an illustration being furnished of a handsome example for table decora¬ tion grown by Mr. Sage ; and a method is submitted of growing “ Tom Thumb ” Vines in small pots for the same purpose. The experience recorded on the effects of grafting in the large vinery at Chiswick are interesting, and the chapters on Vines on open walls and in ground vineries will be useful to many. The diseases and injuries to which Vines are liable are fully yet concisely treated, their causes and prevention suggested, and remedies provided. These apply to rust, spot, scalding, warts on the leaves, bleeding, shanking, and mildew on the roots and berries. The various insects attacking the Vine are also clearly illustrated, this being the concluding chapter on what may be termed the practical part of the book, and not the least instructive in this valuable work. The remaining pages are occupied with selections of Grapes, a classification of Grapes, and a comprehensive series of descriptive, historical, and cultural notes on the varieties of European Grapes. All the leading varieties are further admirably figured on tinted paper, the bunches being shown one-third of their natural size, with separate full-sized berries of each accompanying them. In the selections lists of varieties are compiled for pot culture, for the open 182 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 1, uss. air, for a greenhouse, for market or sale purposes, for exhibition, for late keeping, for early forcing, for high quality, for producing large bunches, and for yielding large berries, to all these being added a list of Grapes of “ peculiar interest.” In his classification of the varieties of Grapes Mr. Barron divides them into— 1, European Grapes; and 2, American Grapes — which is a very natural and intelligible division, seeing the two are so distinct as to belong to two different species. The first he subdivides into — 1, Sweetwater Grapes, or varieties with a sweet, sugary, or saccharine flavour, the juice thin but pleasant, varying in sweetness ; skin gene¬ rally thin and tender. Here are included Black Hamburgh, Trentham Black, Duke of Buccleuch, and Royal Muscadine. 2, Muscat Grapes, which, of course, include the Muscats and Frontignans ; but we observe that he also places Mrs. Pearson in this division, which we have never met with possessing a distinct Muscat flavour. 3, Vinous Grapes, which are described as varieties with a strong vinou3, somewhat harsh, semi-saccharine flavour, and a thick skin, mostly requiring a consider¬ able amount of heat and time to ripen. Here he places Alicante, Dutch Hamburgh, Lady Downe’s, West’s St. Peter’s, &c. It is ques¬ tionable how far it will be possible for people generally to discriminate the distinction between a Sweetwater and a vinous Grape so as to make it a characteristic for classification. We once knew a man who professed to be able to detect a glass of ’34 port if it were blended in a bottle of ’47, but such feats are not common, and we suspect that Mr. Barron’s division of Grapes into Sweetwater and vinous flavours will lead to mistakes when we consider how “ tastes differ.” Mr. Barron is creditably correct in his nomenclature. We detect a few errors which we are sure will be corrected in another edition. The proper spelling of Chavoush is Chaouch. It is a Turkish word, and the Grape is supposed to be a Turkish variety. Mihaud de Pradel should be Milhaud de Pradel, and his reference of Black Champion as a synonym of Mill Hill Hamburgh is an error. Black Champion is a very distinct Grape, with an oval berry and with a fine dark colour. It was introduced about forty years ago by Sir John Mordaunt, and is probably identical with San Antonio. We have dealt with this work fully, freely, and, we think, fairly. Its importance merits this attention. It is the most complete, as it will be accepted as the standard, work on the Vine. Everyone inter¬ ested in the subject on which it treats should possess it, and it should be added, as no doubt it will be, to the collections in all public libraries. Its production has necessarily been costly, and its price will be beyond the means of many young gardeners ; but not a few of these may soon possess this admirable text-book by placing aside Od. a week until they accomplish their purpose. This will be tantamount to “ taking it in in parts,” but better, and their savings will be well invested. We must add that the greater portion of the matter originally appeared in the “ Florist and Pomologist.” The author also recog¬ nises his indebtedness in the frankest possible manner to all others who have aided him in the production of the volume on which he has been for so many years engaged, and which is in every respect finished so well — paper, letter-press, illustrations (in most cases), and binding being of uniform good quality. GARDEN STRUCTURES. I must hasten to say in reply to “ R. P. B.’s ” remarks, that I do not impute ignorance to gardeners, though “ Single-handed’s ” remarks would bear that construction. If ignorance is to be im¬ puted it should be to the Jack-of-all-trades men, who “put up ” the so-called conservatories to villa residences and fruit or plant houses in country gardens sometimes. The examples I gave as fair specimens of what I am continually receiving, and do not vary more than the practice of those same men would in matters of cultivation. The details given of a structure now being built are interesting, but such a mass of ironwork batted into stones would cost as a rule (south of the Trent) as much as the remainder of the house. In Scotland and in other places where labour is cheap, or the labourers on the estate are pressed into the service of the car¬ penter and their wages or time is not computed, the building of such span-roof pits will seem less costly than the finished work of a regular builder, but I could give proofs that the economy is only in cases where certain men have to be kept on and work must be found for them to do. I will say nothing on the absence of top ventilation in “ R. P. B.’s ” structure, so strongly insisted on by my old em¬ ployer Sir Joseph Paxton (gardeners, like doctors, differ), nor will I attempt to connect this with the quantity of condensed water that space had to be provided for specially ; but would like to mention an incident that came under a builder’s n >tice lately. The windows of a bedroom in an old house were rather loose aud rattled in windy weather, so the good lady of the house ordered new beads to be had and the sashes fixed quite tight. Three weeks a Per she complained of stuffiness and the water which covered the windows every morning ; it was suggested that vent/lation was needed. Oh, no ! that meant a draught ; but the carpenter quietly bored half a dozen holes in the top rails of the sashes out of sight and said nothing. Since that time no water has been seen on the glass, except after two or three very cold nights. As to pitch of roofs, I could refer to more netv Peach houses over 45° than under that angle — not wall cases, but houses over 11 or 12 feet wide against walls 13 to 15 feet high, with trees trained in front half way up the glass so as not to obstruct a single ray of sunlight from trees on the wall, the fronts only 2 feet high. I may say that the short back sash is generally used to give more room to get at the trees high up, and that it is better to slope up¬ wards from the wall, so that no shadow is cast on the wall from the junction of the two sashes. Flat roofs require stronger timbers or supports underneath in their construction than a moderate pitch of 30° to 35° would do, especially in Scotland, because snow will lie on the former, which would shoot off the steeper pitch. If “ R. P. B.” had made his ridge 6 or 9 inches higher and his fifth “ astragal ” or rafter an inch deeper he would have needed no 2-inch T iron rafters unless his width had been double that named. — B. W. Wabhurst. CULTURE OF THE COCKSCOMB. The Cockscomb is a beautiful plant, but is not often seen in good condition. It is most useful for conservatory decoration for the late summer months. It is of the first importance to obtain a good strain of seed, as some of the strains are worthless ; and the next thing is to provide a good dung frame, as they will not do at all well in a hot-water-heated structure. The seed should be sown the first week in March, and plunged in the frame, which should have a minimum temperature of 70’, and the plants must be kept in this temperature all through their growing season. After the seeds have germinated place the pots near the glass to prevent the young seedlings from becoming drawD. When strong enough transfer the plants into G0-size pots, placing the stems as low as possible, in a compost of two parts turfy loam, one of leaf soil, and a little sand. Keep them plunged close to the glass until they have finished growing. Keep them in these pots until the flower heads appear, and then repot into 48-size pots in the following compost : Two parts turfy loam, one part leaf soil, and one part well-decayed cow manure, with a liberal sprinkling of charcoal and sand. After they have filled these with roots transfer them into 8 or 9-inch pots, which must be well drained. When the plants are well rooted supply them with warm liquid manure until they have attained their full size, when they should be hardened and removed to the greenhouse. — A. Young. 11 1 i Jo WORK .foiithe WEEK.. SI lignite [~ By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments.'] KITCHEN GARDEN. Makcii is always a busy month in the kitchen garden, and it is to be hoped the weather will allow seasonable operations to be put well forward. Iu many instances I fear the quarters will as yet be empty, and when suitable weather occurs a general crop¬ ping may take place. Seeds of all vegetables may now be sown with advantage. The main crop of Onions should be sown as soon as possible. The ground should be deeply dug and heavily manured, and the drills should only be opened for sowing on a dry day, the best way being to sow the seed in rows 12 inches or 15 inches apart. A heavy, sound, well-matured crop cannot be had iu any shady place, aud the most sunny part of the garden should be chosen for them. If the Onions and all other seeds can be covered with some old dry soil from the potting shed it will be found to assist a free germination of the seed. A good batch of second early Peas should be s<«wn at once. Broad Beans may also be sown iu quantity, and Carrots of the Horn section. Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce seed may be sown in the open border. Good patches of them may be sown broadcast on a rich soil and covered to the depth of half an inch. Parsley may be sown as a main crop. This we never like to have con¬ fined to one spot, but prefer it in two or three places in the garden, as when one fails the other may succeed. There is no crop more liable to be destroyed by grub, and precautions must be taken at sowing time to avert this. We have tried soot, salt, and gas lime March 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 183 in our Parsley ground, and now prefer the salt. It is applied as a sprinkling and dug in. Asparagus. — The beds now require attention. In many cases they may have had a mulching during the winter, and this should be drawn from the crowns and forked in around the roots. Deep digging or forking must be avoided, as this injures the roots and weakens the produce. Stimulants are of the greatest benefit at this time, and a good dressing of salt and soot, or salt and guano mixed together, is always applied at this season. A sprinkling of it is forked in now, and another is thrown on the surface and washed in with the rain later on. Cauliflower plants which have been wintering in frames and handlights should now be taken out to the open borders. In this case we only thin out the plants and allow some of them to remain, as they head earlier than those transplanted now. Jerusalem Artichokes have all been lifted and replanted again singly 2 feet from row to row, and 18 inches from set to set. We find a deep rich soil gives the finest tubers. It is a crop which merits more extensive culture than it receives. Peas which were sown a month ago in small pots have been hardened, and they will now be planted in the open borders. A drill is opened as if for seed, but deeper, and potfuls are planted in this about 6 inches apart without breaking the ball. As they are 4 inches high, a few small twigs are placed in to hold them up as planting goes on, and this also affords them shelter, which is sometimes wanted in March. Potatoes, Carrots, and Radish in hotbeds are now growing freely, and abundance of air should be admitted to them on all favourable occasions. When kept too close top growth is rapidly developed, but the roots do not form in proportion, and may partially fail from this cause. Some of the early Cauliflowers sown in boxes under glass a month ago are ready for transplant¬ ing. Where a very slight hotbed can be formed, with a frame and a little light rich soil on the surface, an excellent place will thus be secured for dibbling out young plants. They root fast in such a position, and can be easily hardened previous to putting in the open quarters. Celery should, if possible, be treated in this way, and the earliest crop should have attention of the kind at once. Our earliest spring Cabbages, which will be ready for cutting in a month hence, or at Easter, are now having any weeds and dead leaves taken from them, and the soil is afterwards broken up between the rows and put to the stems as an earthing- up with the fork. This is the best of all stimulants for spring Cabbages. More Cabbages may also be planted. Plants raised from seed sown last autumn are the most suitable for planting now. Our plan is to plant all the largest in autumn, leaving the smallest in the seed beds to plant now. Sow more Kidney Beans, Tomatoes, and ridge Cucumbers, and keep all vegetables under glass well supplied with rich materials, plenty of water, and a genial atmosphere. PRUIT-PORCIN G. Vines. — When thinning the earliest Grapes has been completed and the inside borders have been watered with liquid manure at a temperature of 80° the berries will swell rapidly until they reach the stoning period ; but any unfertilised berries, as will be indicated by their not swelling freely, should be removed before this stage is attained, and after tying up the heaviest shoulders a few more may be removed, if necessary, to allow of the berries attaining their full size without becoming wedged. At the same time calculate the weight of Grapes each rod is likely to finish, and, if there be any fear of the crop being too full, the removal of a few of the worst bunches will give much more satisfaction in the re¬ sult than an excessive crop. The strongest spur shoots being tied down and stopped at two or more joints beyond the bunches, the leaders and laterals should be allowed free run until every part of the trellis is filled with foliage, having room for its development and full exposure to light, after which keep them closely pinched to one joint. Encourage succession Vines by closing the houses early, with sun beat and plenty of moisture well charged with ammonia from the mulching and the liberal use of liquid manure about the paths and walls ; but avoid a close moist atmosphere, also a high night temperature, giving, if necessary, a little top ventilation on mild nights. As the most promising shoots elongate disbud by degrees, and endeavour to obtain close-jointed growths and thick leathery foliage. The treatment advised for early and succession houses may now be applied to Lady Downe’s and other late varieties intended for keeping through the winter, it being better to apply fire heat in the spring, if these Grapes are to become thoroughly ripened and to keep without shrivelling until the following May, than to run the risk of a cold sunless autumn, when hard firing becomes absolutely necessary and the close atmosphere necessitated only aggravates the evil. Cherry Souse. — Continue 50° to 55° as the temperature from fire heat through the day, and dispense with it entirely at night, only the temperature must be kept from falling below 40°. The trees will be in flower, when the ventilation should be free upon all favourable occasions, and the blossoms fertilised ; but if bees abound it will be accomplished by them, otherwise artificial mean 3 must be resorted to during the time the house is freely ventilated, commencing to do this at 55°, giving it plentifully at 65°, _ and closing for the day at 55°. Moderate moisture should be maintained by damping available surfaces as they become dry. Melons. — These are making good growth, which should be encouraged by maintaining a bottom heat of 85°, not allowing the plants to suffer from insufficient or excessive water at the roots. Maintain a genial atmosphere in the house by sprinkling the plants and the house on bright mornings and afternoons. Venti¬ late at 75°, close at 85° and rise to 90°, with a night temperature of 70° or 65° on cold nights. Attend to stopping and tying, also thinning the young shoots, and fertilise the blossoms on fine days when the pollen is dry. Stop the shoots at one joint beyond the fruits, which, when they have set and have commenced swelling, should be thinned, leaving three or four of the best and most even fruit on each plant, distributed as regularly as possible. Succession plantings and sowings must now and for the next two months be made in accordance with the requirements of establishments. Cucumbers. — Apply tepid liquid manure to plants in bearing, and syringe them gently twice a day. Ventilate early, but avoid keen winds, as these are very injurious to the young growths. Keep the bottom heat at from 80° to 85°, maintaining the night temperature at 65° to 70°, ventilating a little at 75°, closing at 85° and rise to 90°, and keep the evaporation troughs filled with liquid manure. Attend to tying and removing any super¬ fluous fruit or shoots. Young plants making vigorous growths must be trained regularly, but not too closely, over the trellis. A little soil must be added to the ridges or hillocks as the roots pro¬ trude until the allotted space is filled. Make successional sow¬ ings to meet the demands of the establishment, and attend to the linings of hotbeds, having fermenting materials in preparation of making fresh beds. FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Pruning Shrubs and Conifers. — The weather being favourable for other gardening operations we find it advisable to commence this work earlier than usual, and thus liberate the men later on, when planting and cropping may be resumed. A certain amount of trimming, thinning, and shortening is advisable in all shrub¬ beries, as this, if judiciously practised, enhances the beauty of many specimens and improves the general appearance of the whole. The majority of Conifers are naturally of pyramidal habit ; but in the case of younger specimens, and sometimes of the older ones when injured, it is necessary to either select and stake up a leading growth, or to shorten back other leading shoots when more than one are formed. Occasionally one or more horizontal branches outgrow the remainder, and these again should be freely cut back. Well-furnished and comparatively neat specimens are thus obtained, which are more pleasing than unshapely trees. Common Laurels where allowed to grow un¬ restricted, and are not injured by severe frosts, soon become irregular and unsightly, but if cut down to near the ground they will shoot up again this season, and soon fill up the blanks again. It is better, however, to prune annually, and thus avoid this renovating process. The Portugal Laurel also breaks freely, however hard they may be cut back, and so, too, do Yews. Laurustinus where not quite killed during the severe winter of 1880 and 1881 started vigorously from the old stumps, and are now healthy handsome bushes. Others freely cut back are also greatly improved in appearance, and the owners of tall ragged specimens should also shorten these back considerably, or cut them down to the ground. Arbutus Unedo does uol like pruning ; but Box, Hollies, Aucubas, Rhododendrons, Lilacs, Escallonias, Berberises, Cotoneasters, Viburnums, Sweet Bays, Euonymuses, Indigoferas, Buddlea globosa, Weigelas, Spiraeas. Rob'nias, Acacias, Ribes, Mock Orange, Leycesteria formosa, Hydrangeas, Hibiscuses, Genistas, Forsythias (after flowering), Thorns, Dog¬ wood, flowering Cherries, Plums, Peaches, Privets, Maples, Almonds, will all bear pruning, and in several instances be much improved. Large branches should always be sawn off. and the edges of the cuts rounded with a knife. Where the b llhook is used the cuts should be made in an upward direction. This in each instance insures a clean cut, which heals mere qu'ckly and with a greater certainty than jagged reckless cu's. The trimmings may be burnt and the ashes preserved for manu^al purposes. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 184 [ March 1, 1883. Propagating Bedding Plants, — Succulent plants now figure very prominently in the flower garden every summer, and in carpet beds especially are very effective. Echeverias and Sem- pervivums are best known, and both may be easily propagated by seed. This being small should be sown on the surface of pans of moist sandy soil, covered with glass, placed in heat and shaded. The seedlings when large enough to be pricked off in pans of light sandy soil and kept in heat till of good size. Where there is a stock of plants it is preferable to increase them by leaves inserted in sand. Echeveria Peacockii is a handsome improvement on E. secunda glauca, and, like that good old variety, may be in¬ creased by offsets, and the latter remark applies to the useful E. metallica. Old plants of E. metallica and Pachyphytum brac- teosum should have their tops taken off with about 2 inches of stem attached, any disfigured leaves removed, and to be dibbled singly into the centre of 3-inch pots previously well drained and filled with light sandy compost. They should be placed on a shelf in a warm house, and receive little or no water till rooted, after which they may be watered when dry and gradually hardened off. It is advisable to keep the old plants rather dry at the roots for a few days prior to topping them, neither should they receive any water till breaking afresh. Strong old stems introduced into a forcing house will each yield several side shoots, and these may be taken off and rooted before bedding-out commences. Small leaves laid on shelves or dibbled into pans of sandy soil root and form plants. The tall-growing or tree section of Sempervivums may be rapidly increased by cuttings in moderate heat, placing these in pans of sandy soil. The dwarf-growing Sempervivums are principally increased by offsets and seed. Kleinia repens is particularJy effective in lines or groups in the carpet beds, and at this time the tops of all the shoots may be rooted in heat, grown quickly, and again topped and struck, while the older plants may be shaken out and divided. Kleinia tomentosa may also be readily struck in heat. Agave americana variegata is easily increased by suckers ; these, if slow-growing, are service¬ able and effective. Mesembryantbemums, of which the most popular is M. cordifolium variegatum, are rapidly increased by cuttings in heat. Succulents of all kinds should not be watered when first dibbled in, and in the case of the strong growers the tops should be laid on a dry shelf for the cuts to heal. None of them should be shaded, warm sunny shelves being the best posi¬ tion in which to strike them, If the centres of a few strong plants of Sempervivum tabulaeforme are taken out this will induce the formation of a number of side shoots, which may be taken off, rooted, and grown for next season’s bedding-out. • i • , • ! • i . i • l • 1 • i - 1 • 1 • 1 • i - i - l • i • i • i - i • i • i • 1 • i • 1 • l • i - 1 • 1- NSSS SR HE BEE-KEEPER. I THE ART OF BEE-KEEPING.— No. 8. ( Continued from, page 122.) SURPLUS HONEY ARRANGEMENTS. There has been a great advance made in recent years in the methods adopted for securing the surplus honey that goes to reward the bee-keeper for his expenditure of money and time. Formerly the only way was to destroy the bees of certain hives and then take the whole remaining contents. Then came the more humane method of driving the bees, and either uniting them to other stocks, or feeding them so as to have fresh combs built and stored with food before the winter. In either case there was much needless waste, owing to the loss of good combs, which were really of much more value than the small quantities of wax obtained from them. The pollen stored in the combs was also entirely lost ; and in districts yielding this hut sparely, and with no substitute then known, this loss was a real one. Much also of the honey then obtained was necessarily of inferior quality. Modern bee-keepers never, if they can avoid it, break up combs that have been bred in for the sake of their honey. If liquid honey be wanted it is taken from the combs by the aid of the honey- extractor, which we shall refer to at another time. Special means are also taken in such a case to obtain the largest possible quantities of extracted honey by supplying the bees with clean empty combs greatly in excess of their requirements for breeding purposes. These extra combs are either hung in the ends of the single-storey hive, where this is constructed with sufficient capacity, or else in a second hive to be used as an upper storey. If ten frames be considered sufficient for breeding purposes, at least other ten will be required for extracting from. The best results are, however, obtained when at least two upper storeys filled with comb are available ; for when the first has been filled it requires some time to ripen thoroughly, which may be known by its being nearly all sealed over. During this time the bees will, if honey is coming in freely, be storing in the breeding box, and thus cramping the laying powers of the queen at a season when these should have full scope. It is of great advan¬ tage, therefore, to have a spare hive full of combs which may be put on as a temporary third storey. Indeed, in extra good seasons, espe¬ cially when the bee-keeper is pressed for time to extract, even a fourth and fifth storey will be found very useful . Our American friends, who work on this principle, tell us of results, well au¬ thenticated, but almost too wonderful to be believed. When we learn, however, that owing to the usual great mortality among their stocks in wintering they generally have enormous stocks of spare combs for extracting purposes, and when we know that hives will frequently gather over 10 lbs. of honey a day, we need not wonder so much after all. It ought to be the ambition of every bee-keeper ■who uses the extractor to have a large stock of spare clean combs. Drone comb is even better than worker comb for the purpose, and all are the better for having been bred in for one or two seasons. Those who have no extractor, or who may have too few stocks to render it worth its cost to them, and yet prefer honey in the liquid form, may obtain many of the benefits of this method of working by filling the upper storeys with frames full of comb foundation. When full, the new combs may be broken up and cold-drained after the common fashion. After the most of the honey has drained out the combs may then be put into a dish and set in the oven to melt. On again cooling, the wax will be found separated in almost a pure state, and a quantity of honey will still be found below scarcely inferior to that obtained before. As more wax will be obtained by this method than the weight of comb foundation used originally, it will be found nearly to balance its cost. These methods are pre¬ eminently suited to those who have little time to attend to their bees in the height of the season, as with so little trouble greatly increased capacity is given, and the trouble of taking the honey can be deferred to any convenient season. Bees thus treated seldom attempt to swarm, which is another advantage. Most persons prefer honey in the comb, even though they may have to pay 50 per cent, more for it. They consider it less likely to be adulterated, it has a more attractive appearance, and many think it has a more refined flavour. It may be argued, on the other hand, that it is about as easy to pass off sugar-fed comb for honey¬ comb as it is to sell glucose or any of its admixtures for extracted honey ; that extracted honey in its purity, when put up in neat white glass jars and nicely labelled, is comely enough to please most tastes ; that if properly treated it is as richly flavoured as any comb honey, and that it is certainly more wholesome. But while en¬ deavouring to educate the public taste, bee-keepers must take it as they find it, and endeavour to make the most of the product of their hives. It is not the less for their interests, however, they should endeavour to push extracted honey into the market rather than comb. The former is cleanly to handle, easy to pack, and safe to keep for any length of time ; while the losses in handling the latter must average a considerable sum year by year. The writer has had many lamentable evidences of such losses in connection with exhibits sent to the various honey shows. Cases of from 10 to 120 lbs. have arrived in all stages of wreck, rendering them unfit for exhibition, and lowering their value by half at least. The fault in every case has been mainly with the packing, but evidences were not wanting of rough handling by the railway officials ; yet I last season sent several hundreds of pounds to London without a single comb being hurt ; indeed I have never lost anything from such a cause. But it is almost impossible to get average bee-keepers to understand the mysteries of safe packing. The sad experience of one year seems to produce no improvement the next. On such account we strongly urge the fostering of a public taste for extracted honey, say in 1 lb. or 2 lb. glass jars. Meanwhile we must consider how we can best meet the demand for comb honey in an attractive form. The disgusting spectacle of cut combs exposed for sale covered with dust and flies is fast giving way to an attractive array of virgin comb in straw caps, boxes, and single-comb sections, generally protected by glass, and attractively ornamented as most shop goods are now-a-days. A study of the re¬ quirements of the trade leads us to recommend that this variety, in the size and nature of the cases in which comb honey is stored, should be kept up to some extent, in spite of the tendency in some quarters towards the uniform section. The larger dealers still prefer to have the bulk of their honey in cases of from 10 to 20 lbs. each, and find these readily saleable. We therefore urge the use of such cases, espe¬ cially as the bees will store a larger weight of honey in them in the same time than they would do in separate sections. For conveni¬ ence in securing the combs for transit by placing paper pads between, and in cutting out a comb for use without mutilating the others, the combs should all be built on straight guides of comb foundation JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER I - March 1, 1883. ] 185 placed about 2 inches apart. "When straw supers are used this is rather difficult to accomplish, and many prefer guides of clean white comb, which may be fastened by being first dipped in hot wax, and then quickly applied to the place where they are to remain. We prefer, however, to have our straw supers worked with flat wooden tops, in which case the strips of foundation are more easily fastened. Boxes present no difficulty, provided they are, as they should always he, quite shallow, not over 4 inches in depth. These are most attractive when made to take separators of glass. For this purpose the sides next the ends of the proposed combs are to be grooved with a saw before they are nailed together at intervals of 2 inches or rather less. The separators are dropped into these grooves after the box is made and guides fastened, and are pinned in so as to allow a quarter of an inch travelling space above and below. An additional beauty and means of safety are given by the use of bottom rails of glass about 1^ inch wide. One of these is placed under each guide, and fastened either in a groove or on a ledge put in for the purpose. The usual travelling space should be left below these bottom rails, in which case it will generally be found that the bees bring their comb quite down to the glass, leaving scarcely any passages, and that they store their honey right against the glass so that its beautiful tints may be clearly seen. A still further advan¬ tage in these beautiful boxes consists in having the sides cut almost through just opposite the separators, and the top made of bars 1J or If inch wide, thus leaving passages for the bees where more than one box is used. By the aid of the saw cuts mentioned, and the passages between the top bars, the whole case can, if required, be cut up with a penknife into sections of one or more combs as may be required. The most attractive cases of honey we ever saw were in boxes of this description, from 14 to 16 inches square, and from 3 to 5 inches deep. Bell-shaped glasses for honeycomb are now almost entirely dis¬ carded, except by those who keep bees chiefly for pleasure. They are difficult to guide, afford no foothold to the bees in clustering, troublesome to keep warm enough, and almost unsaleable when finished, owing to the cost of the glass. We do not therefore recommend their use to beginners. If variety be wanted, there is endless scope in the variations of straw, wood, and glass, singly or combined, and of shapes to please any fancy. But the principal efforts of the commercial bee-keeper will be in the direction of the now well-known sections. A few hints as to their manipulation will occupy our next paper. — William Raitt, Blairgowrie. (To be continued.) TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. George White, Paisley. — Catalogue of Florists’ Flowers. J. 0. Manson, Harford, U.S. America. — Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds ( Illustrated ). s£s TO CORRESPONDENTS. W\lv\Wwmwwdir %* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Rainfall ( G . S., St. Austell). — We cannot publish your record, as it is incom¬ plete and does not give the total for the year, January being omitted. American Tomatoes (J. 0. Manson).— The new varieties of which you have sent seeds shall be grown during the present season, and their merits when ascertained will be recorded in our columns. Peas for Prizes (An Amateur). — In matters of this kind it is better to communicate directly with the firms in question, and no doubt any suggestion that is made will be duly considered. Petroleum (O. S., Renfrew) — The so-called paraffin oil is what is referred to under its proper name of petroleum when used in reference to destroying insects. A syringe would be far better than a watering-can for applying it against the Onion fly, both as insuring greater force and not, using so Much of the solution, an excess being injurious. Horticultural Shows (Primrose & Co.). — The fixtures of the Royal Hor¬ ticultural and Royal Botanic Societies’ Shows have been published in our columns — those of the former and also some Rose-Show fixtures in our last issue. The fixtures of many large provincial shows have not been announced, and the only method of obtaining the earliest information would be by writing to the Secretaries. A list of Botjuiical, Horticultural, and Floral Societies is published on page 217 of the “ Horticultural Directory,” which can be obtained from this office, price Is. 3d., post free. Vines Bleeding (E. D'O.). — Late pruning is the primary cause of an escape of the sap. When the Vines are very luxuriant and commence bleeding in the spring it is often very difficult to stop the outflow of sap. Dry the ends of the canes at once as well as you can, and dress them with painters’ knotting. This is one of the best remedies we know. If any of our readers know of a better mode of stopping the bleeding of Vines, we shall be obliged if they will send us the particulars for publication. Invigorating Roses (Anonymous). — We do not know what the recipe was to which you allude, nor have we much faith in fanciful prescriptions that are compiled to “ catch the eye ” in ephemeral publications. If you can make the real state of your Roses intelligible to us, and the character of the soil, we think we can give advice that will at least be as useful as that in the “ Companion ” to which you allude. The potash in wood ashes is undoubtedly of service as a manure, but something more is needed in the majority of cases where Roses fail to grow satisfactorily. Work on Gardening (L. II. J/.).— The work to which you refer, we believe, can now only be obtained secondhand, and is also to some extent out of date, scores of Orchids having been introduced since it was published. It is satisfactory so far as it goes. There is no modern work of the kind obtainable. (J. L.). — The book most suited for your requirements is “ Fruit Culture under Glass,” by Mr. D. Thomson, published by Messrs. Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh and London, price 7s. 6 d. Trees for Damp Situation (TF., Surrey). — We doubt if any tree would grow so quickly under the conditions indicated as the Black Italian Poplar. The White Poplar (Populus alba) would also succeed. Willows would grow well, and the weeping kind planted towards the margin of the clump would have a pleasing appearance. The Hemlock Spruce (Abies canadensis) would probably flourish. For undergrowth the Alder would grow quickly, perhaps too luxuriantly, while Mahonias, Japanese Privet, Snowberries, and Tamarisk would, we think, make satisfactory progress. Disbudding Vines (H . Stone). — Assuming the rods are about 3 feet apart, and the Vines moderately vigorous, the fruit-bearing laterals should be from 15 to 18 inches distant from each other on each side of the rods ; but the removal of the superfluous growth should be gradual, and the final thinning should not be done until you are certain that those intended to remain are quite secure, as if one of them should be broken a blank would be made that would be difficult to fill. Are you sure a polmaise stove would answer your purpose ? If you have quite satisfied yourself on that point we will endeavour to aid you, but we may remind you that no method of heating is equal to boiler and pipes. Amaryllis Culture (Constant Subscriber). — You will find notes on the cultivation of these plants on another page, which we presume will meet your requirements. If they do not, and you will state more precisely the state of your plants, with the means at your disposal for growing them, we will readily give you additional information. We have many times stated, and we are surprised you have not observed it, that it is impossible for us to recommend dealers. You can obtain what yourequire from any florists who advertise in our columns. Fuchsias for Window (H. J. G.). — At the present time and onwards until the sun becomes powerful, the plants will succeed with otherwise good treatment in a window facing the south ; but in the summer such a position would be too hot and dry for them. A window facing east, or indeed any aspect instead of south, would be better for them after the middle of May. If they must remain in the south window slight shade will be requisite after that time when the weather is bright. If you sow your Gladioli seed in very fine soil in early May, cover with a handlight.and afford shade to keep the soil moist until the seedlings appear, you ought to succeed in your object. Grafting Vines (A South Wales Amateur and D. L., Bradford). — You will find in another column a method described by Mr. Barron as the “ simplest and best;” he also describes a method of bottle-grafting “ excellent and certain .” For particulars of a remarkable example of successful practice see No. 617 of the Journal of Horticulture, the issue of January 23rd, 1873. A few copies of this are still in print, and can be had for 3 ^d. each, post free from this office. Both the modes we have found good, and you cannot err by trying them too. Cleaning Stone Pillars (E. Y.). — You will find nothing better than muriatic acid for cleaning your stone pillars. The acid should be diluted with water, but if the green has become thoroughly established on the stone you had better use the acid almost pure at first, which will destroy the whole of the green, and the pillars in a few minutes can be washed white. If the pillars are not very badly affected equal parts of the acid and water will clean them thoroughly ; but this entirely depends upon the stone, whether of a hard or soft material. If hard the acid must be used stronger than is necessary when the stone is of a soft nature. The diluted acid can be applied with an oil scrubbing brush, but care must be taken that it does not get upon your clothes, or it will burn and destroy them. Chloride of lime mixed with water will also clean stone, but when it is of a hard nature it is not so effectual, besides leaving an un¬ pleasant smell for days afterwards, which is not the case with muriatic acid. Crops for Shaded Position (J. S.).— There are few, if any, vegetables that could be profitably grown in the border you describe, especially as, we pre¬ sume, it is not only shaded with trees, but the ground is permeated by their roots. Jerusalem Artichokes would probably do as well as anything, and such tubers as are not required for culinary purposes will be readily eaten by poultry. Onions for pickling might also, perhaps, be grown, but it is almost impossible to say without knowing more particulars about the extent of shade and the nature of the soil. If the ground is not too poor and dry Black Currants or Rasp¬ berries would probably answer better than vegetables. We have seen good crops of those fruits, and also Gooseberries, grown under orchard trees, but everything depends on the fertility of the soil. Culture of the Dove Plant — Peristeria elata (Idem). — This Orchid requires a temperature of 65° to 75° during the growing season, and the heat should never fall below 60° as a minimum. Supply water liberally as the growth advances, an occasional application of weak liquid manure being beneficial. After growth is completed withhold water and give the plants a thorough season of rest. Perhaps the cause of your non-success is that the soil is unsuit¬ able, a compost of fibrous turf, leaf soil, and well-decayed manure being the best for it, well draining the pots and elevating the plants. It is not necessary to remove the offsets unless you wish to increase the plant, and with due attention to the above hints you ought to succeed in flowering it, though it does not bloom 186 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t March i, ms. so freely as many other Orchids. An excellent article upon the culture of this plant appeared in this Journal, page 297, April ISth, 1880. Planting Vines (J. J.). — Five rods will suffice for covering the roof, but you may have six if you choose, two to be 15 inches from the glass at the ends of the house, the others equidistant between them, which would be about 2 feet 6 inches apart. We have seen very fine Grapes grown with the rods even closer than that, but care was exercised in disbudding and thinning the laterals. We presume you only want the Grapes for table use, not for exhibiting. Plant¬ ing should be done after the growth has started. The method of planting has been frequently described. Shake them out of the pots, spreading out the roots quite straight, covering them 4 or 5 inches deep in free gritty loam, and apply water at a temperature of 100°, afterwards maintaining a genial atmosphere and a night temperature of 55°. You can either plant three Vines or six as you choose, but they ought to have been procured and cut back to the height re¬ quired long ago, as has been advised repeatedly in our columns. To prune them now bleeding would probably ensue ; you had better, therefore, simply rub off the buds from the upper portion of the canes, and cut off the cane so denuded of buds in the autumn. The lower the cane is divested of buds the better will the growth be during the summer. If you apply the lime with care as you suggest it wall do no harm whatever. For your border, will not a line of Lobelia pumila compacta suit you ? If you want something dwarfer sow Ionopsidium acaule towards the end of the present month or early in March. Uncovering Vine Borders (Norwich).— As you appear to be cognisant that the practice of covering may be beneficial or the reverse, it is a little sur¬ prising you did not state the condition of your Vines and the nature of the materials, whether fermented or not, placed on the border. We can only say generally what we have said before, that when fermenting material has been on a Vine border for some months its removal must be effected with great care, and should not be done until the weather is warm and settled. It is often inju¬ dicious to remove the whole of the covering, as the roots may have penetrated it, and if not they are, or ought to be, quite close to the surface, and conse¬ quently especially liable to be injured by hail or drought. A layer of the manure surfaced with turfy loam, wood ashes, and bones would afford not only protection to the roots, but sustenance of great value for the Vines. We have known instances when the injudicious removal of the covering material has re¬ sulted in Vines being in a worse condition than they would have been if the borders had not been covered at all. Placing fermenting materials on Vine borders is often advantageous, but it must not be placed on too soon, nor removed too soon, as there is assuredly danger in both these extremes. If the covering has not fermented, and the Vines are noc in a forward state, remove it as you suggest, and then as the summer advances give a dressing of manure if the Vines need additional support, and for keeping the roots near the surface. They will certainly dive down into the border if the surface is loose and dry. Hot-water Circulation (II. Cox). — The water will no doubt circulate but its movements will be slow. Instead of the cistern the ends of the pipes should be connected with a simple elbow or syphon, and for supplying the boiler a small cistern should be placed above it on a level with the highest part of the pipes, an inch pipe from the cistern entering the return 4-inch hot- water pipe close to the boiler. An air pipe should be fixed on the top of the flow-pipe at the part you have shown entering the cistern, on the highest point of the pipes in the house. If you require the cistern for supplying warm water, connect the pipes in it by a syphon as suggested. Cut Flowers in Covent Garden Market (Inquirer).— Large num¬ bers of the cheaper flowers seen in Covent Garden Market and about the London streets at this time of year, are sent there from France. You may frequently see sales of these, comprising Violets, Roses, Hyacinths, Snowdrops, and other flowers, which realise very moderate prices, and are largely purchased by hawkers and others. The flowers arrive in shallow boxes or baskets, no packing material being used, and the moisture of the foliage appears sufficient to preserve them in good condition, for they are often as fresh as if they had only been gathered a few hours. Names of Fruits (J.). — The Pear is Knight's Monarch undoubtedly. It is not easy always to name fruit from single specimens. To make sure of increasing this variety you might take grafts from your tree and insert them in another tree now. Names of Plants (J., Cheshire). — Sisyrinchium grandiflorum. (Subscriber). — 1, Ilex Aquifolium, var. laurifolium ; 2, Thuia Lobbi ; 3, Cupressus Lawsoniana ; 4, Abies nigra ; 5, Abies excelsa ; 6, Abies canadensis. COVENT GARDEN MARKET. — February 28th. Titere is no alteration in the character of business, and prices remain substantially the same as last, week. Trade quiet. FRUIT. s. d. s. d. Apples. . 4 sieve 2 0to7 0 „ . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Apricots . doz. 0 0 0 0 Cherries . 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Chestnuts . bushel 10 0 12 0 Currants, Black. . „ Red. Figs . Filberts . Cobs . Gooseberries . 4 sieve 0 0 4 sieve 0 0 dozen 0 0 tt>. 0 0 lOOtt,. 0 0 4 sieve 0 0 o o o o Grapes . Lemons . Melons . Nectarines . Oranges . Peaches . Pears, kitchen .. dessert . Pine Apples, English Raspberries . Strawberries .... s. d. s. d It. 2 0 to 6 0 case 10 0 20 0 each 00 00 dozen 0 0 0 0 100 6 0 10 0 dozen 0 dozen 1 dozen 1 tt>. 1 lb. 0 oz. 1 VEGETABLES. d. S. d. 0 to 4 0 0 30 0 0 0 2 0 Artichokes . dozen 2 Asparagus, French bundle 25 Beans, Kidney .... 100 2 0 Beet, Red . dozen l 0 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 16 Brussels Sprouts.. 4 sieve 16 2 0 Cabbage . dozen o 6 10 Capsicums . 100 1 6 2 0 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 Celery . bundle l 6 2 0 Coleworts.... doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Cucumbers . each o 9 13 Endive . dozen i o 2 0 Fennel . bunch o 3 0 0 G rlic . tt. 0 6 0 0 Herbs . bunch o 2 0 0 Leeks . bunch 0 8 0 4 Lettuces . . score 1 Mushrooms . punnet I Mustard* Cress .. punnet 0 Onions . bushel 2 Parsley . doz. bunches 3 Parsnips . dozen 1 Peas . quart 0 Potatoes . cwt. 6 Kidney . cwt. 6 Radishes.... doz. bunches 1 Rhubarb . bundle 0 Salsafy . bundle 1 Scorzonera . bundle 1 Seakale . basket 1 Shallots . ft,, o Spinach . bushel 3 Tomatoes . lb. l Turnips . bunch 0 d. 8. d Otol 6 0 16 2 0 S 0 8 2 0 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. INDICATIONS OF FERTILITY OR BARRENNESS OF SOILS. {Continued frontpage 166.) All clay soils, as a rule, unmixed, are too tenacious to be fertile ; all unmixed siliciousjsoils are too loose and hollow to be fertile ; and all unmixed chalk soil — that is, a soil of carbonate of lime only, is too pure to be fertile. Many persons, without due consideration, may suppose from these simple observations that a mixture also of the three before-named soils would not be fertile ; yet a mixture of certain proportions of these kinds of soils before named constitutes the medium by which the fertilising properties contained in them are rendered active. The mixture for all prac¬ tical purposes becomes a new soil, possessing new powers of ab- sorbing*and utilising moisture, and all which is requisite is to apply a quantity of both animal and vegetable matter in a decom¬ posed condition, and in the future to carefully return as much of fertilising matter as are removed in the growth of our crops* Fertile land usually shows that its consistency is of a medium nature between sand and clay, or between chalk and alluvium, with sufficient adhesiveness to retain moisture, and sufficiently porous to allow such moisture when excessive to pass freely away into the subsoil. In viewing cultivated districts the appearance of the surface may be deceptive and often deemed barren, especially in the case of useful and productive land when too wet, therefore no man can fully estimate the actual capabilities until draining has been effectually carried out. General bad management, not only as regards the deficiency of manure, its foulness with couch, but also the tillage of the land conducted during unseasonable weather and imperfect tillage in various respects, are damaging factors in estimating the value of the soil for rental or purchase. We have often seen lands really fertile, which, when badly managed, have baked on the surface like cement, and the crops in consequence by no means representing the natural power of the soil. All mere surface appearances are liable to fluctuation from sundry causes, such as temperature, drought, too great a rainfall, lack of manure, and cultivation ; they scarcely ever remain the same for a few weeks together. On the contrary, if a man takes into consideration the description of the herbage, knows what it is when he sees it, and can name it, and at the same time knows from experience that it indicates a productive soil under unfavour¬ able circumstances, or vice versa, he can with greater confidence rely on the opinion he finally forms, and which may be accepted as the nearest approach to a certainty. We always make it a practice when inspecting land for the purposes of valuation to make remarks respecting the herbage, the plants, weeds, and grasses, where they have elected to grow spontaneously, as the best indications usually at band to represent either barrenness or fertility under ordinary circumstances in the case of pasture or meadow land. As we have now reached a point in our subject when the knowledge of botany steps in to guide us to a certain extent ; and although we have before us the means of laying before our readers the botanical names as well as the commonly accepted names by cultivators of the soil as given by John Bravender, Esq., F.G.S., land surveyor, of Cirencester, in his prize essay, published in the Royal Agricultural Society’s Journal in 1845, we must refer them to this capitally illustrated list of names March 1, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 187 of plants, herbs, wild flowers, &c., and natural grasses, which are indications of barrenness where they have grown spontaneously, and where the grasses have usurped the greater portion of the surface of pasture lands. The list of these contains over seventy, and they cannot be given in these columns ; we must, therefore, refer our readers to the essay. There is still another list of some of the weeds on arable land which are troublesome to the culti¬ vator, and frequently occupy so much of the surface as to render the produce of the farmers’ crops of but little value. The list of these contains forty-four varieties, amongst which we find the following names as some of the most damaging and mischievous on our cultivated land: — The Cockle, Corn Bindweed, Corn Poppy or Redweed, Coltsfoot, Corn Marigold, Corn Mint, Char¬ lock or Wild Mustard, Broad and Narrow-leaved Docks, Surface Twitch, and Common Ragwort, with many others. These are, with few exceptions, found on all kinds of soils, and the only indication worthy of notice being the difference in the habit of growth, for they will appear more luxuriantly on fertile than on barren soils. They are introduced here as temporary indications of not only barrenness, but of neglect in cultivation, with the view of encouraging the home farmer in a continual warfare with them, until he finally extirpates them from his soil altogether. The next quotation we have to make is the names of plants, herbs, flowers, &c., and of natural grasses, which are indications of fertility where they are indigenous to the soil. These are but few, not more than twenty in number, but consisting of such as Milky Thistle and Cow Parsley. But again we have a long list of natural grasses as indications of fertility by reason of their electing to grow on all the richest, best, and most fertile pastures in England, and by their dominating all others on the surface. These are about twenty in number, some of which may be enumerated, such as the Sweet-scented Vernal Grass, Meadow Foxtail, Cocks-foot Grass, Perennial Red Clover, Creeping Vetch, and White or Dutch Clover, these latter being found in the best of all the grazing lands in the various counties, the last-named in particular being quite indispensable as a component of every valuable pasture, but is frequently lost or destroyed through the close grazing of sheep instead of cattle. Space forbids our making more lengthened quotations under these headings. We cannot, however, refuse to refer to the most important, as well as the most easily recognised indications of soil, and give a list of a few of our timber trees, with the kinds of soils whereon they flourish most, and in consequence their appearance, presence, and condition may readily be accepted as decided indications of fertility or barrenness. The Oak we find chiefly on deep, strong, fertile land, with clay subsoil. The Elm likes deep, rich, dry loam, and grows with special luxuriance near to farmyards, where liquid manure reaches their roots, and the trees are valued for the shelter they furnish. The Beech grows best on the elevated calcareous soils in woods and hedgerows. The Ash is found on the light soils inclined to be sandy, but flourishes most on a fertile soil. The following indicate boggy or inferior soils : the Alder, the Willow, and the Birch, the last-named is found to flourish as well as the Larch and Pines on the light sandy and rocky soils. Those who enter or travel through dis¬ tricts previously unknown to them will find in recognising the trees enumerated an unerring guide as to the value of land agriculturally in an off-hand way, although they may be travelling by the fastest railway train. If, therefore, we only get a bird’s-eye view of a district, it serves to give us a good general idea of the character of the soils. Again, even in looking over property as a matter of valuation or for business purposes generally, the first objects should be the trees, as a short and ready way of estimating the general character of soils. In conclusion, we wish to observe that our subject is almost without limit if we sought to follow out and give in detail explanations of the various points raised in our review of the subject, but lengthy details are not and cannot be adapted to the limited space at command in these columns, besides which other subjects of vast importance in practical agriculture demand our attention. WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — We cannot recollect a season in which so much time has been lost up to the present time in respect of horse labour on the farm, including the early seeding period. If the weather proves favourable Oats may now be sown, especially of the Black Tartarian variety, for they are much more hardy than the White varieties. The seeding of Beans on the strong lands as well as Peas should now be done, the sooner the better, if the land can be made to work freely ; to our mind there is no better way than to plough, press and drill under one operation, for not only is the seed sure to be buried with little horse labour, but when the weather proves changeable there need be no delay in finishing off the land. We do not like the ordinary drill nearly so well for pulse seeding, as the seed is not always buried sufficiently deep. White Oats such as the Victoria, Poland, or Canadian, in fact all the early sorts, may be sown about the middle of the month, for they require the land to be kinder and lighter than the other sorts. The White Waterloo sort are a first- rate sort to sow as drege, for when mixed with about one-fourth of Barley, the Barley is sure to be a good malting sample, whereas if the land is sown with Barley alone, and especially after roots fed off, it is nearly impossible to obtain an evenly gown sample of best quality. We prefer the Waterloos for the mixture with Barley, because they are thin in the sample and will more easily pass through the screen, especially if properly hummelled, than any other sort, leaving the Barley for sale to the malster. Boby’s screen does the work of separation very well, but there are screens by several parties — Barford, Perkins, and others, which will do the separating very expedi¬ tiously, but it requires care and should only be entrusted to work¬ men who have been used to the work. It has frequently been asked why the Barley should yield a plumper and fuller grain when grown with Oats than when grown alone. We think it is in consequence of there being two sorts of grain, each rooting in the land in a different way, and not interfering with each other during growth, more especially as the Barley comes into ear before the Oats ; but no doubt the Barley having more room than when it is sown alone makes some difference, for it is found, if drilled at 12 inches apart with only two and a half bushels of seed per acre, that the sample will prove stouter and more regular in berry than when drilled close with the usual quantity of seed. When Barley is grown after Wheat of the previous year, it will often require a little manure which should be applied by the drill or otherwise sown just behind it, so that the manure should fall into the coulter grooves with the Barley ; about 1 cwt. of nitrate of soda mixed with 2 cwt. of mineral super¬ phosphate will be the best quantity of manure either for Oats, Barley, or drege. Hand Labour. — This has also been much delayed, still we have been able to fork out lumps of couch from the land intended for Lent corn where there was but little. Anything requiring horse labour must wait until the weather is dry enough to use the Howard’s self-lifting drag and comb out the couch before the ploughing, seeding, and drilling takes place ; in fact, if a little couch should show up where the Oats are up, this may be forked out without injury to the corn, and where there is but little hand labour is more effectual, and is done at the least cost compared with horse or steam power. Hedge¬ trimming has been completed lately during wet weather. Live Stock. — We find many farmers on the vale farms who buy all their sheep in the autumn agree with us, that instead of selling their lambs at light weights it will be better to hold them on and sell them as tegs after being shorn at such weights as are required most by the butchers. Again, why should the ewes be sold fat and fed at an enormous cost for food and expenditure in other ways, when if held over they will prove more valuable at Michaelmas next than any¬ thing which can be purchased ? There can be but little doubt of the breeders of sheep on the hill districts of the various counties obtain¬ ing the most advantage at present prices. The foot-and-mouth disease is unfortunately spreading fast in many counties, and the farmers must continue to suffer serious losses until the importation of live animals for the butcher are entirely prohibited. The consumers would then derive their supply of meat entirely in the same way, as much is now imported from America as quarters of beef and carcasses of mutton ; in this way only can this and other diseases be kept out of the country. FORMATION 01* PERMANENT PASTURES. In the form of a supplement to their “ Farmer’s Year-Book and Grazier’s Manual,” Messrs. Sutton & Sons of Reading have published what they term “ A few Practical Remarks on the Formation of Permanent Pastures,” which are worthy of the attention of those who are interested in the subject. In addition to much interesting matter, especially on Rye Grass, those who contemplate laying down land to permanent pasture are re¬ minded of some of the more important considerations which need to be observed, namely, “ What are the characteristics of the soil, physically, chemically, and with regard to situation 1 Is the surface soil stony, brashy, clayey, marly, loamy, sandy, moist or dry, drained or undrained ? Is the subsoil porous or a retentive clay, sand, chalk, or gravel ? What does an analysis show the soil to be deficient in, or to have an excess of, as regards its chemical constituents 1 Is it near the sea or far inland ? at the top of a hill or down in a valley ? in the dry eastern counties or in the west of England, Ireland, or Scotland ? The proper choice of seed depends upon all these considerations. “ Again, what is the object in view ? Is it wished to have a fine close turf like that which brings to perfection the Southdown sheep 1 Or is a firm turf no requirement, and the desideratum a coarse rank herbage, such as that in the Fens, which will keep the greatest head of stock ? Is it desired to lay away to grass land which is foul with couch, thoroughly out of heart and con¬ dition, and which will no longer grow corn profitably ? Or is the field in first-rate order, full of heart, and fit to grow anything ? Is it intended generally to mow, or generally to graze ? Is the 188 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 1, 1883. grass to be fed by sheep, or by bullocks, or by horses, or by all three ? Is it for a special purpose, or for general purposes ? “ The finer Fescues, which form the turf of the Susses Downs, would be wasted if largely used to form pastures for fatting bullocks. A large proportion of Cocksfoot, so valuable for these latter, would in turn be the ruin of pastures to be mown for hay which is intended for use in hunting and military stables. The strong-growing vigorous Grasses necessary to overcome couch, and thrive on poor hungry land, would be thrown away and be taking up the place of more valuable varieties if sown on good land, clean and in high condition. “ If a pasture is generally to be mown for hay, then varieties of Grasses should be chosen which come to their greatest perfection at the haymaking season. If, on the other hand, the field is to be generally grazed, a selection should be made which will insure a continuation of feed throughout the whole year. Pastures for sheep should be formed of finer close-growing varieties than those to be fed by cattle, and bullock pastures may contain many varieties which it would be useless to sow on a trainer’s paddock.” A NEW POULTRY PAPER. We had intended this week to present the readers of the Journal of Horticulture with a large supplement devoted to Poultry, Pigeons, Cage Birds, and Rabbits. In preparing for this work such a hearty response was made by our friends, that it was ultimately determined to issue this supplement also as a distinct publication at a very low price. At the last moment we find the postal arrangements preclude our enclosing the new paper in the Journal ; but we will readily send a copy, post free, to anyone sending their address. The new paper, “ Poultry,” will be published every Friday, price One Penny, and may be had from newsvendors, at the railway bookstalls, or direct from this office. ENGLISH AND FRENCH POULTRY KEEPERS. There are in France hardly any large egg-producing establish¬ ments. The greater proportion, if not the whole, of the eggs imported into this country are the produce of a large number of raisers, collected from week to week by a middleman, who receives a small commission from central houses, who export to this country the result of the different collections. The districts in France from which large numbers of eggs are collected and exported to England are Normandy, Picardy, Artois, and Brittany. In each of these districts a different system of production and of collection is in force ; but in all the districts the same attention to egg-producing is paid by the farmer or cottager, the same care is taken to obtain the largest quantity of eggs at the smallest cost, and the result is attained — viz., a profitable poultry-yard, he it large or small. In Normandy and part of Brittany, where small holdings of a few acres are to be found in great numbers, the small farmers and cottagers are every one of them raisers of poultry, and derive a fair profit from their yard. Near every small farmyard, or adjoining it, is a small enclosed orchard, to which the poultry have access, the roosting-place being generally close to a cow-shed, or to the stables, for the sake of warmth in winter. The fowls are fed twice a day, close to their roosting-place, so that they may always be induced to come hack to lay there, although a careful search is always made in out-of-the-way corners. In every village in Normandy, and in the southern part of Picardy bordering the former, every man has a poultry -yard, large or small, according to his means or in proportion to his plot of land, and the great reason of the success of these people is to he found in the fact that they work for themselves and neglect nothing to obtain a satisfactory result. The farmers and graziers of Normandy, while paying due attention to their cattle and horses, and farming their land to the best of their ability, do not neglect their poultry-yard, as they well know that with proper care and attention it is as profitable a branch of farming as any, that under their supervision, and with¬ out any extra labour, their cowman or the dairymaid can attend to the poultry department, and that they are ultimately well repaid for their outlay of food by the price of the eggs sold. Their fowls, how¬ ever, are fed with regularity, with neither too much nor too little, and are not, as in the English farmyard, left to pick up their food as best they can. The great contrast between this state of things and that existing in England deserves to engage the attention of the British farmer. Advanced agriculturists have long ago seen the necessity for the British farmer to consider his poultry-yard as a part of his farming business that can and ought to be made a paying one. The late Mr. Mechi pointed out one of the causes, perhaps the chief, of the failure of poultry-farming in this country. “ Farmers will not,” he said, “ systematically feed their fowls, and, instead of careful superin¬ tendence, just leave them to themselves, like gutter children.” He very pertinently added : “A farmer will readily turn a large flock of sheep to trample on, drag down, and devour a fine field of clover or grass, hut he would be annoyed to see half an acre eaten by his wife’s poultry. He will give his pigs barley and beans by the sack, but objects to the poultry helping themselves to kernels. A farmer never grudges barley by the load for his pigs, and cake and corn for his other stock : why should he regret feeding his poultry ? In some cases that I know of one of the farm hands receives a pint of beer when the governor is at market, to carry in a sack of barley on the sly for the poultry, so as not to shock the farmer’s excessive and unreasonable prejudices.” Mr. Mechi went on to show that properly managed poultry cost less to produce, weight for weight, than beef or mutton, while selling for considerably more, hut, he added, “ a poultry-breeder must understand the business as much as the breeder of other farm creatures.” We have here the whole matter in a nutshell. In France large or small farmers and cottagers understand the business, take an interest in it, work for themselves, and neglect nothing to obtain a satis¬ factory result. In England the farmers’ wives even hardly ever do this, while their husbands look upon the poultry-yard with contempt. Were the breeding and feeding of cattle, sheep, and pigs left to chance, and without the supervision and direction of the master, were half the milk lost or stolen, were the lambs left to themselves to seek for the roots that are not given to them, or the calves left to graze on the scantiest of herbage, neither of them would pay. Is it, then, surprising that poultry, being left to breed indiscriminately, being fed in the way we have mentioned, and the hens being allowed to lay away where one-third of the eggs are lost and another third stolen, are found not to pay ; and, being so found, have all kind of food begrudged to them, while simply as scavengers and worm and slug destroyers they are such useful friends to the farmer ? We again quote Mr. Mechi’s words a I’appui: — “It is a well- admitted fact by all my labourers that my best and thickest crops are in immediate proximity to the fowl-house, commencing at only ten yards’ distance. No doubt there are times when you ought to protect your shallow-sown seeds, and, in my case, I sometimes employ a boy for a fortnight immediately after drilling close to the fowl-house; hut, even if 1 have not done so, I have rarely been inconvenienced if the grain was properly deposited by the drill. There is no surer sign of imperfect tillage than when you hear of birds or game getting out the seed.” Poultry graze equally as do sheep or cattle, and it is essential that a piece of pasture should be near the fowl-house, otherwise they will naturally appropriate young Cabbage, Turnip, or Mangold plants. — (The British Trade Journal .) METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40" N. ; Long. 0° 8' 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. date. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. 1 Rain. 1883. February. Barome¬ ter at 328 and Sea Level Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. | Temp, of Soil at 1 foot. Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Inches. deg. deg. deg. deg deg. deg deg. In. Sun. 18 29.977 41.0 40.2 S.E. 40.2 46.8 38.8 73.4 36.6 0.058 Mon. 19 30.113 35.7 34.7 N.N.W. 39.8 42.9 31.7 52.0 27.9 • - Tues. 20 30.283 41.0 39.8 s.w. 39.7 48.2 34.8 51.9 30.5 0.074 Wed. 21 30.160 46.8 45.7 w. 41.0 53.3 34.8 61.4 39.3 — Thurs. 22 30.417 50.5 49.3 w. 42.8 55.4 46.3 76.1 43.6 — Friday 23 30.854 39.0 37.0 N. 42.8 51.8 33.3 87.0 29.3 — Satur. 24 30.708 38.4 38.0 w. 41.3 52.5 33.2 79.6 •28.8 — 30.402 41.8 40.7 41.1 50.1 86.1 68.8 33.7 0.132 REMARKS, 18th. — Rain at first ; afterwards fine. 19th. — Fine throughout ; moonlight night. 20th. — Dull, with cold rain. 21st. — Rather dull, but fair throughout. 22nd. — Fine spring-like day ; bright moonlight night. 23rd. — Fine and bright sunshine. 24th. — Fine. A fine week, temperature still considerably above the average, and during the latter part of the week very high barometric pressure. Very little rain. — G. J. Symons. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 8, 1883. ] 189 8th 9th 10th Tn F s Royal Society at 4 .30 P.M. 11th 12 th SDN M stii Sunday in Lent. 13th Tu Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit anil Floral Committees at 14th W Society of Arts at 8 P.M. [11 A.M. LIFTING VINES IN MARCH. ^HEN old Vines are unsatisfactory we are frequently advised to clear them out and plant young ones. This was said to me in relation to a house of old Vines ex¬ hausted from overcropping and a satu¬ rated border ; in fact the roots were in a very bad condition. I did not clear them out, however, and preferred for several reasons to improve them if possible instead of planting young Vines, and well have they repaid the time and labour necessary for carrying out the operation. They have improved each year since they were lifted, now five years ago, and it is question¬ able if young Vines would have produced finer fruit, and I certainly should not have obtained from them half the weight of Grapes the renovated Vines have produced. It was towards the end of February when I decided to lift them, and I had then to consider the best time for doing the work. I wanted a crop of Grapes from these Vines if possible, and this made me hesitate at first to lift them in the spring ; yet I did not like the idea of waiting until autumn and thus lose a season ; besides the crop, anticipating they would produce one, would have to hang upon them for weeks, or even months, after the usual time for lifting in autumn. It was early in March before suitable soil could be found, and the work was commenced by clearing out about 4 yards of the old border from one end of the house, the border being inside. The new border, about yards wide, was made and the roots laid into it before the remainder of the old border was disturbed. Another portion was then removed and replaced as before, and so on until the whole was completed. The strong fibreless roots were remarkable for their black unhealthy appearance. These were shortened considerably, yet every healthy fibre possible was preserved. The Vines had many dead roots, especially near the bottom of the border, and the principal fibry roots they possessed were near the front and had evidently started from the collar one or two years previously. The soil the new border was composed of was fully too moist, and the Vines in consequence had no water for a long time after lifting. They were allowed to start into growth naturally, and it was thought best not to apply fire heat until the roots had commenced advancing. The Vines started fairly well, and the house was closed early in the day while the sun was upon it and with a moist atmosphere. The time between the lengtliening-out of the shoots and the action of the roots is not long in the case of healthy Vines, but these in question did not advance for two or three weeks ; they flagged in spite of syringing when the sun shone upon the house, and the small leaves nearest the stems turned yellow and fell off. Anxiously I watched the Vines day by day going back, and even made preparation for raising young Vines by pegging one or two small Vines I possessed of suitable varieties into the turf of the border, as I concluded the few bunches — fifty to sixty in all — would, like the small leaves, eventually turn yellow and fall. At last I hopefully discovered the deeper shade of green making its appearance near the footstalk of the leaf ; flagging became less frequent, and in a very short time lateral growths made signs of pushing — all satisfactory indi¬ cations that the roots had commenced to do their duty. These lateral growths were encouraged until they filled the entire roof, crowding being avoided. At the base they were encouraged until the border was almost covered and the top resembled a thicket. What about the bunches ? some may ask. A few turned yellow and fell, but fifty finished well and were conspicuous for their large berries. These Vines are by no means handsome when pruned, for we have never studied the orthodox system of spur-pruning with them, and they have yearly improved in the number and size of the bunches and quality of the fruit. The general desire, of young gardeners especially, is to root out old, or what we may term old, Vines if they are not quite satisfactory, and plant young ones, as from them something gigantic is anticipated. The first thing, then, to be considered is the requirements of the family a gardener serves. In many instances giant bunches, however startling they may be, are not so serviceable as those of a moderate size. When large a Vine cannot carry so many bunches, and in consequence Grapes for dessert fail long before they would if the Vines bore a greater number of smaller bunches. My advice, then, is, where the production of large bunches is not the primary object do not be in a hurry to destroy old Vines. These in many cases when properly renovated are capable of yielding after one year a full crop of Grapes. If the fruit for one year on exhausted Vines could be sacrificed they have a much better chance of recruiting themselves, and would in all probability go on with judicious treatment and moderate cropping for an indefinite period. Some contend the best time to lift Vines is just before the foliage falls. It may be ; but rather than disturb them with a crop of Grapes hanging I would prefer doing the work in spring some time before the roots commence growing. If the roots are entirely outside and there is no means of protecting the new border from heavy rains, especially in wet low-lying localities, the spring is decidedly preferable to late autumn for lifting. I do not condemn autumn lifting if it can be done while the foliage is fresh, the crop cleared from the Vines, and the border either inside or well protected outside, for they would make roots in autumn before the foliage faded, which would assist them materially the following spring when starting into growth. It is not always a question of doing this kind of work at the season regarded as the best, for such operations have frequently to be done when cir¬ cumstances will allow, and the cultivator can procure fresh soil and find a favourable opportunity. Where practicable it is a good plan to clear out a No. 141.— Vol. VI., Third series. No, J797— VOL. LX1X. Old Series. 190 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March s, isss good portiou of tlie exhausted soil at the front of the border, add fresh compost, and then peg down the Vines, in which they will produce a good quantity of healthy roots. These need not be disturbed when the lifting of the remaining roots is done, and will assist wonder¬ fully in sustaining the Vines after the lifting has been completed. Where the renovation of old Vines is con¬ templated and the entire border cannot be renewed for a season or two, the plan of pegging down the Vines as suggested is worthy of consideration. It may be carried out now, and in all probability will well repay for the time and trouble devoted to the work. Whatever may be urged against the extension of lateral growths in Vine culture, it will be found that a liberal growth of the laterals is one of the best systems that can be practised with newly lifted Vines, or of Vines pegged down prior to lifting as described. Without a good development of foliage it is impossible to obtain abundance of roots, which are of vital importance in recruiting the energies and restoring the lost vigour of exhausted Vines. It is not difficult to achieve success¬ ful results in renovating old Vines if only the work is carried out with care and the after treatment conducted judiciously and intelligently. — W. Bardney. GARDENERS AS SERVANTS. Some correspondence which has appeared in the morning papers since we last wrote upon this subject a fortnight back seems to indicate that the revenue authorities are endeavouring to exact the uttermost farthing in the matter of taxing male servants. The question is by no means a new one. As far back as 1854 and 1855 it was debated whether the terms of the Act then in force (1G and 17 Vic., cap. 90) included labourers occasionally employed as gardeners in the ;tax imposed on gardeners or under gardeners. Several decisions bearing upon the point will be found in vol. xv. of the Cottage Gardener , page 387. The Commis¬ sioners of Land and Assessed Taxes and the Judges differed as to the construction of the Act above mentioned. On the 3rd of March, 185G, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, in reply to a question put by Col. Harcourt, stated that “ he understood that the construction which had been adopted by the revenue department was this, that persons who were regu¬ larly employed for a whole year, and who were under the direction of a head gardener, should bo regarded as under gardeners ; but that persons who were only casually employed, and who were engaged in such duties as might be performed by common labourers — as, for instance, in mowing grass or in keeping gravel walks in order, were not to be deemed under gardeners.” — (Times, March 4th, 1856). This construction would seem to have been the reasonable one upon the wording of the old Acts, and it is in accord with our opinion expressed in our issue of 22nd Feb., page 160, as to the true construction of the new Acts, the first of which (the Customs and Inland Revenue Act, 1869) in fact repealed the old Act as to gardeners, and brought them within the general definition of persons taxable as male servants. The more we consider the matter the more we are surprised that such a decision as that arrived at by Mr. Cooke on Capt. Patton’s case should have been given. If that decision be correct, anyone employing a person even for a day to assist in a garden is liable to have proceedings instituted against him for not having procured a license. This is absurd upon the face of it. Having suburban gar¬ dens put into order occasionally would become an expensive operation if, in addition to the wages paid for the man em¬ ployed, it were necessary to procure a 15s. license before the two or three days' work could be legitimately undertaken. This can never have been intended, and if Mr. Cooke’s de¬ cision be good law we can only commend the matter to the attention of the legislature, and express an earnest hope that a short Act will be passed as soon as possible, clearly defining the position of employers of labour in this respect. We trust that a decision of the Court of Appeal to which Capt. Patton's or some similar case will doubtless be taken ere long, will be such as to render any further legislation upon the subject unnecessary. SINGLE DAHLIAS— RAISING THEM FROM SEED. So-called double Dahlias have long been favourites with the florists, and their beauty has added greatly to the attrac¬ tions of many a horticultural exhibition. It is not, however, my intention to consider the history of these now, as that was fully discussed last year in the Journal (page 315, vol. iv.), and I now propose referring to the single forms. Fashion threatens the dethronement of the double forms to some extent in popular favour and to patronise the single Dahlia in their stead. We do not, however, desire to see, neither do we anti¬ cipate, a marked decline in the cultivation of the double varieties. Both are worthy the cultivator’s care ; and if, as we may hazard the prediction, a more extended growth of the single kinds may lead eventually to the production of double flowers with flat imbricated florets, we shall hail their advent with satisfaction. Until a comparatively recent date single Dahlias were to be found almost exclusively^ in bo'anical collections, and their merits as decorative plants easy of cultivation have not been recognised or sufficiently appreciated either by professional gardeners or amateurs. "They are now fully to the fore, and amongst those who have taken a more than ordinary interest in their cultiva ion, and who have been successful in raising- new varieties of merit, I may mention the worthy Curators of the Oxford and Chelsea Botanic Gardens. In the former garden most of the oldest kinds have been in cultivation since the date of their introduction, and where numbers of plants we could mention, supposed to have been lost to cultivators, have been found, much to the satisfaction of eminent botanists. The groups of Dahlia coccinea that have for many yrears adorned a series of circular beds in the Oxford garden with their profusion of richly'- coloured flowers have well illustrated the fitness of this class of plants for more general use, espe¬ cially where cut flowers are in demand. The kinds that I have noted here, from which large numbers of seedlings have been raised, are D. Cervantesi, D. mexicana, D. gracilis, D. Merckii, D. alba, D. scapigera, and D. Paragon, as well as a fewT others that it is not necessary to mention. The seedling plants obtained from D. gracilis are character¬ ised by the elegant foliage and neat habit of growth of their parent, and can be thus readily distinguished from the off spring of any of the others, but the range of colours produced from this sort so far is only limited. This latter remark also applies to those of D. Cervantesi and D. mexicana, both of which produce medium-sized flowers, having for the most part broad well-rounded florets. The old and generally admired D. Paragon, in addition to being a sportive kind, has established its fame as a prolific parent of purple or maroon-coloured flowers of many beautiful hues. Of D. scapigera, an exceed¬ ingly pretty and moreover very distinct sort, there are two or three forms, all having small florets of somewhat diaphanous texture, which are slightly cupped, and are of a delicate mauve tint shaded with purplish lilac ; the most desirable, as we think, being the one with flowers measuring 1^ inch in dia¬ meter, and notable as being of the deepest colour. D. alba and D. Merckii are varieties that should not escape the attention of those who do not already possess them. They both produce pure white flowers, which render them most attractive objects in the flower garden, and their cut blooms are invaluable for table decoration. The former variety appears to have been so far an especial favourite as to have acquired from different growers several other names, while the latter is a comparatively scarce sort. Considerable interest, it will be seen, is centred in these two Dahlias, when we mention that it is from them that Mr. W. H. Baxter has succeeded in raising seedlings that are the parents of many of his most beautiful JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. < March 8, 1883. ] 191 varieties. So successful has he been in producing single Dahlias from seed, that it is due to him to place on record the satisfactory results that have attended his efforts. By way of illustration I may mention that in a bed of this year’s seedlings a large proportion of the flowers possessed the qualities to be found in the best named varieties both as regards the form of their flowers as well as in their rich diversity of colours. With a pleasing remembrance of these flowers as I write, and with a prospective view promising the fulfilment of greater expectations, I cannot but urge the opinion that care should be exercised by growers in selecting only such seedlings for naming as are of superlative merit. To those contemplating saving seed of single Dahlias with a view to obtaining varieties of merit, we may observe that ihe flowers are in a high degree susceptible to chance impregnation through the agency of the wind, as well as by the insects by which they are always more or less infested. It is, therefore, important to state that they should not be planted too close to the double varieties if the cultivator’s object be to obtain single flowers. To those who are not aware how easily this class of plants can be grown we offer the following remarks. To insure their flowering the same year seed should be sown not later than the month of March, for if sown later, unless the season be very favourable, they will yield but few flowers : however, the tubers from those that do not happen to flower the same season may be stored as customary with other kinds, and will amply repay in the following year the little trouble that such a course involves. Choose flower pots or pans of a convenient size, and after placing sufficient crocks in the bottom of each to insure good drainage cover them wi h a thin layer of moss, and then fill with a compost of sandy loam and thoroughly decayed leaf soil, distribute the seed thinly on an even surface, and slightly cover them with fine soil ; they should then be placed in a bottom heat of 60° or 65° Fahr., and when the young plants have become sufficiently strong remove them to a cooler temperature and harden them gradually for planting out, as early in May as practicable. If sown thinly as here recommended they need not be potted singly, as this pfactice — no matter how carefully performed — tends to weaken the young plants, from which state it takes time for them to recover. If they receive similar treatment to that generally bestowed on raising half-hardy annuals, such as Ten-week Stocks, Asters, and Phlox Drummondi, they will in most cases fully answer the grower’s expectations. It will be necessary to use some care in separating the roots of the seedlings in removing them from the seed pans for planting out, which should be effected if possible in showery weather. If planted in lines or groups a distance of not less than 3 feet should be allowed between the plants, and they ought to be afforded some protection until they are established. There is not much advantage to be gained by the process of disbudding, as this only tends to increase the size of the flowers, which in most cases cannot be considered desirable. In conclusion, the value of single Dahlias planted with a view to producing the most pleasing effects in combination with other popular garden plants is suggested as deserving of consideration. — S. P. E. S. POTATOES FOR TABLE AND MARKET. ( Continued from page 174.) In the following notes the figures 1, 2, and 3 indicate first early, second early, and late varieties ; the months the time of planting ; and the asterisks those varieties that are considered the best for market purposes by the respective cultivators. Gloucestershire. — 1. Middle to end of March for gardens; a week later for exposed situations. * Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Deep light loam on gravel subsoil. 2. Same as first early. *Early Rose and Beauty of Hebron. 3. Beginning of March for gardens, fortnight later in exposed situations. *Magnum Bonum and Reading Hero. Manures and Application. — In gardens I apply a moderate quantity of farm¬ yard manure in the autumn or a moderate quantity of artificial manure in the spring at the time of planting. In fields I have used ordinary manure, also bone dust in moderation at the time of planting, without any injurious consequences as re¬ gards disease, but a large quantity of manure increases the disease very much. General Culture. — It is found by some cultiva¬ tors that the crop of Potatoes is very much increased by the use of large quantities of manure both ordinary and artificial, and as the expense of cultivation, rent, &c., continue very much the same there is more margin of profit. There may be no objection to this if the produce is all consumed, but the use of Potatoes grown in this manner for seed cannot be too strongly condemned. They have the mycelium of the fungus largely developed in them, and can¬ not fail to reproduce it on an extended scale the following year ; in fact the Magnum Bonum is the only Potato up to the present time which has not broken down under such treatment. Specially pre¬ pared tubers should be grown for seed. The planter should send to a nurseryman for his stock of tubers for planting, or devote a special plot of ground on his farm for raising seed tubers for use the follow¬ ing year. — Frederick Bravender, The Firs, Cirencester. 1. From the 1st to 20th of March. *Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Light soil and in sheltered situations. 2. Latter end of March or beginning of April. Gloucestershire Kidney and *Rintoul’s Early Don. Soil. — Medium. 3. First and second weeks in March. *Magnum Bonum, *Scotch Champion, and *Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — Medium. Manures and Application. — Well-decayed farmyard manure and coal ashes are freely used, the latter especially where the ground is inclined to be heavy ; road scrapings and leaf soil are found to be of great service. — Willam Nash, Badminton Gardens. 1. February and March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Light. 2. March. *Prince Arthur and *Gloucestershire Kidney. Soil. — Light. 3. April. Schoolmaster and ‘■’'Magnum Bonum. Soil. — Rather heavy, considering it is resting on the old red sandstone forma¬ tion. Manures and Application. — Leaves, stable dung, and garden refuse, &c., well incorporated together forms the principal manures used here. General Culture. — We never apply manure direct for Potatoes, but rather stimulate about the time of earthing up with dry wood ashes, a little soot, and Peruvian guano mixed together and left in a heap twelve hours before using. — Thomas Shingles, Tortioorth Gardens , Fal/ield. Hampshire. — 1. February. *Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Myatt’s Prolific Kidney, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, and *Extra Early Ver¬ mont. Soil. — The soil is a light stony loam resting on a gravel bottom. 2. March and first week in April. *3choolmaster, ‘'‘Pater¬ son’s Victoria, Woodstock Kidney, and Covent Garden Perfection. Soil. — These are planted in a soil consisting of loam, leaf soil, and vegetable manure. 3. Third week in February and first week in March. *Magnum Bonum, *Scotch Champion, *Dalmahoy, and Lapstone. Soil. — Medium loam, and consisting principally of peat with sand. Manures and Application. — I apply to the soil in which the first earlies are planted a good quantity of well-decayed leaf soil with a small proportion of soot. The second earlies are planted in a com¬ post of stable manure and guano in small quantities. For the late varieties I add to the soil before planting a good share of farmyard manure. General Culture. — Plant the tubers in rows from 2 to 3 feet apart according to the haulm they make ; the Magnum Bonum and other varieties make such a vigorous growth that I allow them 3 feet between in the rows, and the tubers 2 feet apart. They are frequently hoed and kept clear of weeds when growing. As soon as they are fairly up they are earthed. Last season I had very few diseased tubers. — Henry Charles Ogle, Chilworth Manor Gardens, near Romsey. 1. Middle of February. *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Suttons’ Fill- basket, and *Coldstream. Soil. — Very light sandy loam, trenched deeply and manured with vegetable (leaf) soil every year. 2. Middle of March. Woodstock Kidney, Lapstone, and *Covent Garden Per¬ fection. Soil. — Similar to the last, and trenched every year, but it is manured in alternate years only. 3. First week in April. ‘•‘Reading Hero, *Magnum Bonum, and *Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — A loam of medium texture, which is trenched every alternate year, and long stable manure worked in. General Culture. — The early and second early kinds are planted in drills 4 inches deep, 2 feet apait, and 15 inches from set to set, and are covered in with the hand ; and as soon as the tops are above ground are earthed up in the way Potatoes usually are earthed when about a foot high. This protects *them from frost, and no other earthing up is needed. The late kinds are planted with broad-pointed dibbers 4 inches deep, and are earthed when the tops are about 9 inches high. — W. WlLDSMlTH, The Gardens, HecJcfield Place, Winckfield. 1. As soon after March 1st as the ground is found in good condi¬ tion. *Early Hammersmith, *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and Mona’s Pride. Soil. — Old garden soil ; originally heavy clay, now moderately light and full of vegetable matter. 2. End of March. *Snowflake, Woodstock Kidney, *Covent Garden Perfection, and Lapstone. Soil. — Same as for first earlies. 3. From 1st to 20th of April. *Suttons’ Reading Hero, Scotch Champion, *Paterson’s Victoria, and Dalmahoy. Soil. — Heavy clay. Manures and Appli¬ cation. — In rich garden ground I have obtained the best results from the use of wood ashes and charred rubbish strewn rather thickly over the sets when planted. Heavy dressings of rich manure usually pre¬ dispose to disease ; but on ordinary farming land manure is necessary, but ought to be applied and ploughed-in in the autumn. General Culture. — Potatoes once planted only require to be kept free from weeds until fit to be earthed up. Peruvian guano is strewn between the rows at the rate of about 2 cwt. per acre just previous to that operation being performed. — James Bell, Strattieldsaye, (1 inchfield. 192 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 8, 1883. 1. First week in November or first week in February. Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Myatt’s Prolific Asbleaf, King of the Earlies, and Porter’s Excelsior. Soil. — Grey sand on sandstone or limestone sub¬ soil. 2. End of February or first week in March. Dalmahoy, Daniel’s White Elephant, Walker’s Improved Regent, and Rector of Wood- stock. Soil. — Hazel soil on gravel subsoil. 3. From the middle of March to the middle of April. Magnum Bonum, Scotch Champion, Paterson’s Victoria, and Schoolmaster. Soil. — Sandy loam on mild brickearth or marl subsoil. Manures and Application. — For applica¬ tion in the autumn farmyard or stable manure or green vegetable crops such as late Turnips or Mustard dug or ploughed under. For the spring, artificial manures 5 cwt. of Peruvian guano and 4cwt. of German kainit, applied in admixture with damp ashes in the trench or furrow with the sets at planting time. We have found when guano formerly contained 14 per cent, of ammonia, that 5 cwt. alone proved superior to any amount of other kinds of manure which we could apply, and this was the case on all soils to all varieties of Potatoes under our experiments. General Culture. — Autumn cultivation must be done either by the spade or plough 12 inches in depth, or to be effected by a cultivating implement or subsoiler with tines only immediately after harvest or earlier. Any couch or weeds to be forked out first week in November, and again before the last digging or ploughing the first week in February. Plant whole tubers of medium size not less than 9 inches deep either in the autumn or spring, in the first case to avoid frost, in the latter o avoid disease, for we have noticed that the soundest tubers always lie deepest in the soil in those seasons when the disease appears. Early sorts of Potatoes to be planted 18 inches in the lines and 22 to 24 inches between the lines ; the second earlies at 30 inches between the lines and 20 inches in the lines. The late sorts are planted 3 feet apart between the rows and 2 feet apart in the lines. In earthing at the wide distance the deeper the furrow the better. — Joseph Blundell, Land Agent , Southampton. Herefordshire. — 1. Veitch’s Improved Asbleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and Mona’s Pride. 2. Lady Paget, Coldstream or Smith’s Early, and Covent Garden Perfection. 3. Lapstone, Snowflake, and Schoolmaster. Field. — Scotch Champion and Magnum Bonum. General Culture. — I have not grown twelve kinds of Potatoes, con¬ sequently I cannot undertake to name that number of varieties which shall eclipse the endless new sorts now bewildering the public ; but I grow the following, and find them suitable to my soil and requirements. I never use animal manure when planting. I plant early in February and March, place the tubers or sets on the surface of the ground, then dress with a mixture of charred earth, lime, and well-pulverised soil from old Vine borders. Ridges 9 inches high are then formed over the rows of sets, and the work is finished until the young growths begin to push through. Our soil being cold and heavy, I find sur¬ face planting favourable to quick growth and early maturity. Of the two varieties named for field culture, Champions are fast gaining upon Magnum Bonum, as they are superior in quality and command the best price in the market. Neither of them is disease-proof. — W. Coleman. Eastnnr Castle Gardens, Ledbury. Hertfordshire — 1. Prom the middle of February. Old Ashleaf, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Light, on gravelly subsoil. 2. March. Smith’s Early or Coldstream, Rector of Woodstock, *Schoolmaster, and Dalmahoy. 3. From the middle of March to the middle of April. Paterson’s Victoria, Scotch Champion, and *Magnum Bonum. Manures and Application. — No manure is used unless ground is in poor condition, when stable manure is preferred. General Culture. — For first early Potatoes I usually select some good tubers of the old Ashleaf, laying them singly on the fruit-room floor or any light cool place until the first week in May. They have then made shoots from 3 to 4 inches long, and are planted on a warm sunny border in rows about 20 inches apart, laying them in the trenches as the ground is being dug, pro¬ tecting wdth boughs if weather is frosty. These are ready for table a fortnight earlier than those planted in February. — Richard Ruffett, Panshanger. 1. 1st to middle of March, and the same time for the second earlies. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Beauty of Hebron, and *Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — These Potatoes are in¬ variably grown here in the gardens, and generally follow crops which have been previously dressed heavily with farmyard manure. The soil has only been under cultivation for six years, and is chiefly of a medium texture resting upon a gravelly subsoil. The soil 'is the same for the second earlies. 2. Prince Arthur, the *Schoolmaster, Huntingdon, and Covent Garden Perfection. 3. Middle to end of March. *Scotch Champion, *Magnum Bonum, and Wormleighton Seedling. Soil.— These are always cultivated on the farm, and the character of the soil is of a light, free, open texture 1 to foot in depth, resting upon a coarse gravelly substratum. Horse" manure is chiefly used for field cultivation ploughed in about the beginning of October at about eighteen loads per acre, and when planting w'e prefer using a sprinkling of Clay’s fertiliser before covering the sets with the plough. General Culture. — For the early varieties grown in the gardens the soil is thrown up into ridges 2£ feet wide, remaining in this state all the winter ; when planting the sets are placed between them and the ridges levelled. When sufficiently advanced the Potatoes are earthed up again and kept clean. The late varieties grown in the field are planted after the plough, setting the plough so that every third furrow is seeded, using medium-sized sets 1 foot apart and 2 feet 9 inches between the rows. When ready the horse hoe is applied between the rows, and they are ultimately earthed up. — J. Myers, The Grove, near Watford. Huntingdonshire. — 1. Middle to the end of February. *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Extra Early Vermont, Hammersmith Kidney, and Alpha, very early. Soil. — Medium loam, and if possible a south¬ west aspect ; well drained. 2. Beginning of March. *Paterson’s Victoria, Matchless, Snowflake, and York Regent. Soil. — Soil in¬ clined to be rather heavy. 3. The end of March and first week in April. *Magnum Bonum, Red-skinned Flourball, Champion, and Bresee’s Climax. Soil. — Generally rather a heavy loam. Manures and Application. — For early crops, half-decomposed leaves applied under and over the sets makes a good manure. The Potatoes come out clean, and generally of good quality. For later crops, spent hotbeds and stable litter I sometimes use. By incorporating them with the soil in the autumn before planting, and a little guano, not more than 4 cwt. an acre, sown over the drills at the time of planting before covering the seed, will both increase the quantity and improve the quality of the crop. General Culture. — The soil here is generally of a tenacious character and clay subsoil, so that named is what we use from necessity, not from choice. A plan that I find succeeds well is — In the autumn after applying the manure, dig deeply, and ridge up as roughly as possible in 3-feet ridges, thus leaving the soil well exposed to the atmospheric influences, which causes it to pul¬ verise and work much better in spring. Before planting level the bottom of the ridges with the prongs of a fork or a rough iron rake, then plant the sets and cover with the soil, then the seed is all sur¬ rounded by soil that has been well exposed to the weather. I have obtained larger crops from Potatoes planted m the middle of Novem¬ ber than from those planted alongside in spring, even after standing the severe winters of 1879, 1880, and 1880-81 ; but it is seldom that ground under crops can be secured in condition to carry it out on a large scale at the proper time. — William Kennedy, Kimbolton Castle. 1. If the land is in good order the middle of March. *01d Ashleaf, *Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Beauty of Hebron, and Suttons’ First and Best. Soil. — Good deep loam on clay. 2. Middle March. School¬ master, ^Reading Russet, *Prizetaker, and Suttons’ Fillbasket. 3. Beginning of March. *Magnum Bonum. Reading Hero, ^Scotch Champion, and Paterson’s Victoria. Manures and Application. — Stable manure for the early kinds, with a dressing of soot and Amies’ manure or guano ; soot and Amies’ manure for late kinds after a crop that has been well manured the year before. General Culture. — Land should be dug or ploughed early before Christmas, and the oftener it is moved when dry the better. Plant early varieties 2 feet apart in the rows and 1 foot from set to set. Late kinds 3 feet apart and 1J foot between the rows, and thin them when well up, only leaving the two main shoots ; earth up twice. — Robert Stowe, Kimbolton. 1. Last half of February. *Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, *Early Shaw, and Coldstream. Soil. — Loam, medium texture, resting on gravel. 2. March. Lapstone, '♦Early Rose, *Dalmahoy, and Schoolmaster. 3. March. ’•'Magnum Bonum, *Pater- son’s Victoria, *Scotch Regent, and *Fluke. Manures and Appli¬ cation. — Stable and farmyard manure, well decayed, should be applied in the autumn, and if possible the land to be dug before Christmas and left rough. General Culture. — In planting the sets I prefer drills drawn 6 inches deep instead of dibbling, the first earlies 2 feet apart, the second and late varieties 30 inches. The sets should be at least a foot apart in the drills. When the plants are up two hoeings are beneficial before earthing to extirpate weeds and promote growth. A position fully exposed to the sun is essential for Potato culture, and the late kinds should not be dug until the skins are well set, and choosing, if possible, dry weather for harvesting them. — A. Harding, The Gardens, Orton Longueville. Kent. — 1. Early in March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf and Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Heavy in all cases. 2. March. Schoolmaster. 3. End of March. *Magnum Bonum and Champion. General Culture. — No manure is used here for Potatoes. Schoolmaster is a first-clas3 Potato, but with us is very liable to disease. Magnum Bonum and the Champion are of the finest quality if left in the ground till October; some were not lifted till November last year, owing to the wet, and no Potatoes could be better. Schoolmaster, owing to its liability to disease, will not be grown again. — R. Gray, Chevening, Sevenoalcs. 1. Early in March if the ground is suitable. Old Ashleaf, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Light soil. 2. Middle of March. Woodstock Kidney, Jackson’s Kidney, Beauty of Kent, and Schoolmaster. 3. For all varieties. Magnum Bonum, Paterson’s Victoria, Vicar of Laleham, and Champion. Manures and Application. — I chiefly use horse manure applied in the autumn ; but if the ground is very wet turn it up roughly, and throw the dung on the top with the ashes from all the burnt rubbish, and fork it in in spring. — Frederick Miller, The Gardens, Northdown, Thanet. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 8, 1883. ] 193 1. Second or third week in March. Hart’s Selected Ashleaf, Beauty of Hebron, *Climax or Early Goodrich. *Early Rose, and *Kentish Invicta. Soil. — Light and chalky land. 2. Covent Garden Perfection, *Pride of America, *Beauty of Kent, and *Woodstock Kidney. 3. *Late Rose, *Magnum Bonum, Reading Hero, and *Adirondac or Schoolmaster. Soil. — All of these are good on light and medium soils. On bog land Schoolmaster is the best, and I have found it for four years quite free from disease ; but it is of no use for general field culture, being perhaps the most ill-shaped tuber in cultivation. Manures and Application. — Th^re is nothing like good farmyard manure kept over a year and turned several times. I have used this for the past eight years in growing my show Potatoes for the International Exhibition. I have tried some chemicals, the best of which I have found has been Amies’. General Culture. — To insure a good crop have the land turned up roughly during the winter months, and though it may seem an expensive matter, I think that we. should find that to dig the ground for Potatoes would be the way to insure larger crops. Another great secret is in keeping the soil well worked amongst them till the haulm is strong. I usually plant the sets 2 feet apart for Ashleafs and early kinds, 2 feet 6 or 9 inches for strong-growing kinds, but I always have a second crop to come on in them, either Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, or Purple Top Mammoth Turnip, and this year I tried a small piece of Swedes, but the soil was too poor. — Fred. T. Hart, Fctversham. (To be continued.) ZYGOPETALUM MACKAYI AND ITS VARIETIES. Of what are known as “good all-round ” Orchids the true old Zygopetalum Mackayi is certainly not the worst, blooming as it generally does during the dull winter months, when flowers are scarce and flowers with a summer-like fragrance most valued. But what is the true Z. Mackayi? Well, you can look at the figures in the “Botanical Register” for 1844, or in Loddiges’ “Botanical Cabinet,” 1136, where a form of it is figured as Z. in¬ termedium; then in the latter work, t. 1674, is Z. Mackayi, so also in Paxton’s “ Magazine of Botany,” vol. iii., t. 97 ; in Lind- ley’s “ Sertum Orchidaceum,” t. 7, as in “ Botanical Magazine,” t. 2748. Perhaps, having looked at all these portraits, you will be “ a bit fuzzy,” as is the description applied by plain Yorkshire folk to a man in that state when he can swear to “ two moons at once.” At any rate, none of these figures, good as they may be, do full justice to the plant dedicated to the memory of J. Towns- hend Mackay, LL.D., the first Curator of the Trinity College Bo¬ tanical Gardens at Dublin, and figured in this Journal last week, page 179. The fact is, in going about pretty frequently from one good garden to another oDe becomes convinced that this “ grand old man ” amongst Orchids is very variable also, there being in¬ deed a sliding scale of these variations from Z. Mackayi minor, a pretty little thing with flowers an inch or so in diameter, up through the forms known as Z. intermedium or Z. velutinum of Loddiges’, until, having ascended a “Jacob’s ladder ” of seven or eight steps at tbe least, we find size and beauty and fragrance all combined in what we call the true old Z. Mackayi, but which is often known as Z. Mackayi giganteum in the few gardens where it is o be found. We have prepared a few figures of the most distinct of the variations which, apart from present interest, will, we hope, be valuable for future reference, for among other of our daily expe¬ riences we find that, however often anything is settled in the gar¬ dening press we represent, the same question is certain to crop up again, and in questions of this peculiar kind figures are so much Fig. 54. — Zygopetalum intermedium type. more eloquent than any amount of merely descriptive matter. Fig. 53 represents Z. Mackayi as often seen, but it is a variety smaller and paler in colour than the true species. Fig. 54 is Z. in¬ termedium, Loddiges’ type ; and fig. 55 (page 195) a distinct variety of the same. Most of the controversy relating to newly introduced Orchids and other plants might be prevented by a good figure being given as soon after its introduction as may be. If an im- — porter knows for certain what his plants really are he can readily get a good and faithful likeness of it, and if he does not know the less “ descriptive matter ” he indulges in the better. This much en 2>assant ; but now we must return to our text. If possible “ first catch your hare ” — that is, procure a plant of the true old Z. Mackayi ; if not that, then secure the best variety you may. It is easily grown. Although Brazilian it makes grand growth in a cool airy house during summer. The largest growths we ever saw were made in a cool, moist, airy, and partially shaded Odon- toglossum house. Everyone admired them, but, alas ! they did not flower, and one’s employer is apt to fancy “ nothing but leaves” — no return for cultural expenses. The Mexican-house temperature was next tried : 90° on hot days, no shade, no fire heat at night, when the temperature fell to 45° or 50° very often. So grown the bulbs were smaller, the leaves shorter, and almost yellow rather than green, but the growths were sturdy and vigor¬ ous. Some gave two spikes, each spike bearing seven to nine flowers. Once in flower the blossoms are deliciously fragrant, and endure fresh for five or six weeks. Singularly enough the flowers lose the i - odour as night approaches — a curious contrast to those of the Angrrecums, Nicotiana affinis, and other plants, which only become fragrant as darkness approaches. A compost of fibrous peat, sphagnum, and broken crocks is most suitable, and abund¬ ance of water when growing should be the rule. — Zygos. EARLY and LATE-FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Seeing inquiries in the Journal about late-flowering Chrys¬ anthemums, I beg to state my experience in securing a supply of blooms from the middle of November to February 19th from about eighty varieties. The first to come into flower were Mrs. Dixon, Gluck, Jardin des Plantes, Emily Dale, Mrs. Geo. Rundle, White and Golden Beverley, Mrs. Cunningham, Queen of England, Mrs. Huffington, Empress of India, and many others in succes¬ sion. About Christmas I had a quantity of fine blooms to cut from. On Friday, 19th of January, I was requested in particular to cut a tray of Chrysanthemum blooms for a ball, the following being the varieties : — Cherub, Novelty, Julia Lagravfue, Mr. Astie, Golden Cedo Nulli, Peter the Great, St. Michael. General Brain- bridge, Aregina, White Cedo Nulli, Lady Slade, Miss Hope, Miss Mary Morgan, Faust, Guernsey Nugget, Blonde Beauty, White Eve, Lady Hardinge, Eleanor, Mr. Howe (which I consider to be one of the best), White Christine, Duke of Edinburgh, and a few others. After that 4 received orders from my employers to save a few blooms if possible until the middle of February, as they JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 194 should like some for a wedding, and on February 13th I again cut a quantity of blooms from the following varieties : — Robert Bruce, Elaine, Golden Christine, Hero of Stoke Newington, Fair Maid of Guernsey, Jewess, White Venus, Bronze Jardin des Plantes, Rev. R. T. Briggs, Lady Margaret, Pink Venus, Marabout, Model of Perfection, Rosinante, Countess of Dudley, Mr. Glad¬ stone, Princess Louise, Ethel, and George Sands. I have had Mr. Barns, a Japanese variety, this last four years, and have not succeeded in flowering it. I should like to hear if any of your readers have found it satisfactory. — T. B., Kynsal , Audlcm, WATERING AND DRAINAGE. The remarks of Mr. Young (page 152) about my notes on watering are both timely and reasonable. I am always glad to have my notice properly called to anything I write which may appear inconsistent with something in former articles. It is quite true that I attach great importance to thorough drainage of Vine borders, and in my treatise on the subject it is stated that a depth of 8 or 10 inches of rubble was placed under the soil ; but it is also distinctly stated that letting off the superfluous water was not the only, nor even the principal, reason for placing it there. Two other reasons are given, and as I do not know that I can state them plainer I will quote them : — “ The subject of aeration is a very important one, and possibly not fully under¬ stood ; but this much we know, that the roots of plants cannot live without air, that air follows each supply of water given to the border, and that the system of drainage which allows a great quantity of water to be applied necessarily gives abundant aeration.” Another reason given is that “ brickbats and similar material have some effect on the temperature of the soil above them, not only from the warmth contained in themselves, but from the body of air contained in the interstices, and which, being cut off from direct contact with the atmosphere of the house and that outside, must vary but very slightly and this is emphasised by adding that, “I consider that those who insert drain pipes vertically through their borders to connect the air of the drainage with that of the ordinary atmosphere make a mistake and neutralise to some extent the good offices of the rubble, because they make it possible for a circulation of air to take place otherwise than through the border.” I do not undervalue the importance of allowing means of exit for superfluous water ; but supposing I had the means of ascer¬ taining exactly how much water it is necessary to give the borders merely to keep them sufficiently moist, I certainly should not at any time give them more than that quantity ; but as no instru¬ ment is yet invented for ascertaining the amount of moisture con¬ tained in the soil at a depth of 2 or 3 feet, we are obliged to guess to some extent the quantity of water necessary, the only guide being the success or failure attending former applications. But as in the case of the Vine a very large quantity of water is neces¬ sary, we are more likely to err by giving an insufficiency than by the reverse. We, therefore, practise drenching our borders thoroughly at intervals ; and as there is provision made for the exit of all beyond what the soil can hold in suspension, perhaps the only disadvantages are a certain amount of wasted labour and wasted manure. These are evils for which there is no remedy at present as far as I know, but in the case of plants confined to pots with a comparatively small amount of soil it is altogether different. The question of aeration has not now to be taken into account, unless it may be to prevent too much of it, as we do occasionally by plunging the pots, and the same may be said with regard to temperature, the extremes of which are to be guarded against. There then remains simply the question of supplying and re¬ taining sufficient moisture ; and we have the plant in a pot so entirely open to observation as to its wants in this respect, that it becomes a very simple matter to gauge them by some of the various methods known to and practised by those who water care¬ fully ; and could I attend myself to a house of plants, I certainly should not be afraid to have the pots glazed and without a hole for drainage. I do not say that I should commence my experi¬ ments with “delicate Heaths” or Lisianthus Russellianus, but I have recollection of an event which partly bears on the subject as regards the last-named plant. The best lot I ever saw of this beautiful plant was grown in such a manner that no superfluous water could run away, and none was ever given. The pots containing them were placed in saucers, and the only water they ever had was poured into these saucers, the surface, I believe, being never once wetted from above during their whole existence. When I state that the said plants [ March 8, 1833. were grown at Shrubland Bark by a namesake and valued tutor of my own, who also used to be known some thirty years ago in the neighbourhood of Streatham Common as a successful plant exhibitor, there will be many of your older readers who will remember him with kindly feelings. I think I never saw more beautiful objects in my life than those plants were, and Mr. Taylor, who suffered no one but himself to attend to them, was well repaid for his trouble. I do not say that this case proves the correctness of my theory, but it goes some way to prove that a good plant cultivator long ago recognised the evils attending the washing and drying system of plant-growing. Mr. Young rightly says that after a pot had become full of roots a plant would not be likely to suffer so much from having the drainage stopped, and asks if I ever corked up the bottom of a pot from the first of a plant’s existence. I am not sure that I ever have done so. But when we see plants in cottage windows growing very fairly in old earthenware teapots, meat tins, baking powder boxes, blacking bottles, and even glass bottles with the necks knocked off, and with no provision for the escape of water, as well as in painted flower-pots, we ought not to fear the result of competition with the cottagers under similar conditions. The only question about the matter is knowing when to give water, and how much to give. Over-drainage is often nothing but a precaution we are obliged to take in order to prevent satura¬ tion and souring of the soil at the hands of unskilful or unloving attendants. With some exceptions our choice is only between having our plants dried up and drowned, and as the former evil is the easiest to detect we prefer it of the two. — Wm. Taylor, NOTES ON AURICULAS. We have just been examining and attending to our stock of Auriculas, and amongst your numerous readers there may be some who desire a few particulars at this time. First, the soil my plants are growing in is a pure loam mixed only with cow manure. To diminish the tendency to flower out of season as much as possible I have adopted a system of keeping the soil in the pots dry through¬ out the winter months. This past winter, in order to obviate as far as possible any ill effects to the plants from this course, the pots were placed on a layer of fine sand. This has so far succeeded that on turning out some of the plants in the beginning of Febru¬ ary (up to which time no water had been given them since the end of November preceding), the plants, though perfectly quiescent, had fine healthy roots. The plants have been kept moist since, for with the fresh growth of foliage and flowers new roots will be produced, and dryness in consequence is now mischievous in its effects. The practice of surface-dressing the soil every spring has been said to be of little if any benefit to the plants. With the kind of soil at our command I find that surface-dressing is bene¬ ficial, though cases doubtless occur where this practice may not be necessary. The compost we employ is one-half of good loam to one-half of cow manure. Though the way I use the latter material has been explained before, it may not be amiss to restate its preparation here. Fresh but dry dung is selected — dry enough to rub down into fine flaky particles. This is incorporated tho¬ roughly with the soil, which is also moderately dry, and the com¬ post is ready for use. In preparing the plants the soil is allowed to become rather dryish. With a label or a pointed stick the surface soil is worked out from amongst the roots therein, at the same time removing any offshoots ready for doing so. The amount of fresh material required is packed firmly in the pot, which with the others is again returned to the frames, where they are watered in the same manner as any other plant. I have tried forcing some into flower, but it is not an experiment which can be commended. Offsets, however, I invariably keep in a slight heat until they are well established and ready for a larger pot. A weakly offshoot under this treatment will throw a good truss the first year. Liquid manure is useful when cautiously applied. The only stimulant 1 have used is sulphate of ammonia, which supplied in a weak state once a week three weeks running while the trusses are being produced, and provided the plant is well rooted, I have found to advantage. It is especially useful, as it causes other manurial ingredients of the soil to act more freely. As many persons purchase Auriculas at this period of the year, I have made the following list select, as so many of the kinds grown are really not worth the trouble. There is a new one, John Simonite (Walker), which I believe is very good, but it was not to be obtained last season. John Morris is new and very good. Green-edged Varieties. — Admiral Napier (Campbell), Admiral Wisbey (Headley), Colonel Taylor (Leigh), Excellent (Trail), March 8, 1883 ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 195 Imperator (Lytton), Lycurgus (Smith), Mrs. Clark (Trail), and Prince of Greens (Trail). Grey -edged Varieties. — Acme (Read), Alexander Meiklejohn (Lay), Charles E. Brown (Headly), George Lightbody (Headly), John Morris (Meiklejohn), Lancashire Hero (Lancashire), Marie (Chapman), and Richard Headly (Lightbody). White-edged Varieties. — Ann Smith (Smith ?), Catherina (Sum- merscales), Glory (Taylor), Ne Plus Ultra (Smith), Smiling Beauty (Heap), Sophia Dumaresque (Lightbody), True Briton (Hepworth), and White Rival (Trail). Self-coloured Varieties. — Blackbird (Spalding), C. J. Perry (Turner), Duke of Argyle (Campbell), Garibaldi (Pohlman), Eliza (Sims), Lord Clyde (Lightbody), Lord of Lome (Campbell), Meteor Flag (Lightbody), Pizarro (Campbell), Ruby, Topsy(Kay), and Yulcan (Sims). — R. P. B. As a lover of the Auricula, I with many others am very glad to see our friend “ D., Deal,” again penning some useful hints with regard to the flower itself and also its culture. The planting- out in a frame that he speaks of I can corroborate as a very useful proceeding, especially with one or two sorts that do not seem to do well in pots. I had some very fine green-edged flowers last year from plants standing in a sheltered border and covered in with a long glass light belonging to my frame, which I could easily remove on fine days. With regard to top-dressing, I am inclined to think it not so needful as some growers insist on, as I am sure no one could tell the difference in some plants of the same kinds when placed side by side that I had in flower last season, and as my time is much occupied I am omitting it with some plants this season. But most of all am 1 glad to see the subject of “strains” in Auriculas discussed. One question forces itself on us at the outset, How are these strains produced? By cultivation, soil, treatment, climate^.or what ? If any light can be thrown on this it may perhaps tend to help some cultivators with whom certain sorts seem never to do well. With green and grey edge varieties I have no difficulty, but I have only one or two white edges that do well with me. I have now a plant of Taylor’s Glory, which when I first had seemed to do as well as the rest, but for the last three seasons it has become “ smaller by degrees and beautifully less,” until now I have turned it out of my frame and intend to try it in the border above mentioned. White Rival, too, sorely puzzles me, producing long leggy growth, but no increase in size. Lee’s Earl Grosvenor is this year serving me the same as Glory. All have the same treatment. One thing has always forced itself on me — that is, that certain sorts have produced seedlings exactly like their parents, and from these better or stronger-growing plants have come. I have tried this with General Niel, and have seedlings that cannot be distinguished from the parent, but several of these do not produce offsets to anything like the extent of the original. Is this so with others ? If our friends will give their experience in this it may tend to throw a little light on the subject. If such be not the case I wonder how the demand is met for sorts that produce scarcely an offset. — J. Luck. VINES BLEEDING AND MELON STEMS SPLITTING. POWDERED alum rubbed on the cut or wound will stop the bleeding of Vines even in serious cases, and heal the wounds in the stems of Melons. I made the discovery last summer. First, I had some Melon plants in pits, Blenheim Orange and the Best of All Melons. The plants had set a good crop, and the fruits were swelling well for nearly a fortnight. I then discovered the stems badly split and the sap exuding like boiled pulp. As I gave them up as ruined, I resolved on drastic measures, kill or cure. I purchased some alum and crushed it, then applied it to all the affected parts thickly, then covered the places with sulphur, and I was agreeably surprised to find that the plants finished one of the finest crops ever grown. One fruit of each of the varieties was sent to a local show ; one was too ripe, and the other, almost perfect, was stolen, I suppose in envy for the fruit and seed conjointly. Secondly, I cut down two main rods of Black Hamburgh Vines just above where I had run up new rods. The old rods were about sixteen years old. 1 cut them in October as soon as the Grapes were removed, doing this early to help the young canes. Two days after the sap was streaming from the first, the other was not so bad. I rubbed the alum on, and then dusted it thickly over with more, and the dressing proved thoroughly satisfactory. — J. E. Waiting. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM ELECTION. The numerous readers of the Journal, whose pleasure or duty it is to make the cultivation of the Chrysanthemum one of the many studies arising from their calling, cannot but feel grateful to the Editor for having originated this election, if only to give, by the aid of the discussion that is sure to follow, such information to beginners as wili go far to remove the confusion which exists in the names and synonyms of the Incurved section especially. The result of the election illustrates the old saying that “ a little knowledge is a dangerous thing,” for it is evident some of the returns fell into the hands of a few whose knowledge of the varie¬ ties is not very deep. When we see as a fact seventy-seven varieties quoted as worth a place in a leading stand of twelve the result must be received with a certain amount of caution. My first impression was that Jardin des Plantes was in a false position. As a decorative variety in colour it cannot be surpassed, hence its popularity throughout the country ; but as an exhibition variety, its ragged sub-divided petals and somewhat flat form precludes it from a first-class exhibition stand, and it is very rare that we see in the metropolitan district a first-rate flower shown. In Mr. Bunn we have a good substitute of better form altogether, although the colour is not so rich. Then, again, in your tabulated list of sixty-two names I find there are only fifty-eight varieties, and if the names of the following — Venus and Pink Venus, Beverley and White Beverley, Pink Perfection and Miss Mary Morgan, St. Patrick and Beethoven, had been bracketed together and the total votes added they would have been in a different position. But, apart from this, the list is a good guide to the relative esti¬ mation the different varieties are held in throughout the country, and no one can deny but that it contains the best of the Incurved section. No doubt several varieties that have been mentioned but once or twice would have had a higher place had they been better known, and consequently more generally grown. Princess of Wales and Empress of India I consider are fully entitled to their premier positions in the first twelve ; and if the extra votes that were accorded to White Queen, Lady St. Glare, and Mrs. Cunningham had been added to the latter, to which beyond a doubt it was entitled, it would have placed Empress of ludia at the top of the list. As regards the second list (page 138), containing the too-much- alike varieties, I must confess to being as much amused as I was surprised, for there is as much difference between some of the varieties bracketed as alike as there is between General Jacque¬ minot and Gloire de Dijon Roses, and it shows how many there are distributed throughout the country under wrong names. I interpreted that you only wished for those varieties that were well known to be in existence under more than one name, and was therefore surprised to see that some electors had given names of certain varieties that were too near alike as regards colour to be shown in the same stand of twelve, although distinct enough in all other points, and might have been included in a stand without fear of disqualification. This I think might have been very well 196 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 8, 1883. left to the taste or selection of the exhibitor, and varieties only bracketed together that is well known to be synonymous, and that would lead to disqualification in case they were exhibited together. I would suggest to the trade to take the hint and avail themselves of the opportunity to obtain the information, and exclude all synonyms or bracket them together in their lists, thereby bestow¬ ing a great boon, and preventing much confusion in the future. I am quite prepared to be told that there are varieties about which the best judges differ. Without exception this is only m the case of varieties that have thrown a sport of another shade of the same colour, as, for instance, John Salter and Mr. Howe, Golden Queen of England and Emily Dale. Barbara and Baraba, Princess of Wales and Mrs. Heales, are counterparts of each other except in the shade of colour. No doubt if we have the sport true there is a difference in all these, more especially in the two latter, which with me are very distinct ; but there is no certainty that at any time in varieties where the shade of colour is so near they may not break back to the original, though, taking Chrysanthemum sports generally, it is rather the exception than the rule. My advice is, when you have once got a true stock of an un¬ certain variety keep it if possible, and do not rely on anyone else unless you are certain it is right. But as regards the other ques¬ tion, I recollect the time when, I think it was, Mr. A. Forsyth, late of Stoke Newington, sent out Miss Mary Morgan, and many were disappointed to find it turn out identical with Pink Perfec¬ tion, and I thought it was more generally known that they were alike, and also that Inner Temple is no other than Refulgence under another name, and that Mrs. Dixon and Golden George Glenny are the same. But there are many in the list, as you have pointed out, that are totally distinct both in habit, foliage, petals, and colour. I think most growers will agree with me that neither White Globe nor Isabella Bott should be associated with Empress of India. I should have no hesitation in showing all three in a stand of twenty-four without fear of disqualification. There are many more in the list that I should like to have mentioned, but I fear I have already taken up too much space. I was surprised to find Mr. Bunn and Golden Beverley bracketed by so many, as they are certainly distinct. I can speak with a little authority on that point. A few years ago Mr. Halstead, an enthusiastic amateur in connection with the Borough of Lambeth Society, who then had the sport, asked me to try it and report on it. I did so, and found it very distinct in colour and petal from its parent, Golden Beverley ; but it was some little time before its merits were recognised. Now there is no doubt many can substantiate my opinion. Messrs. Jackson & Sons of Kingston-on-Thames had a number of plants amongst their fine collection, and were much impressed with it. The fine form and colour gained much favour, the petals being cleaner, and not coming cross-petalled like its parent. — C. Orchard, Coonibe Leigh , Kingston-on-Thames. As a grower of Chrysanthemums let me add my thanks to those of your other correspondents for the kindness and trouble you have taken in the election of the Incurved varieties. I also quite agree that an election of the Japanese varieties would be useful and highly appreciated, but it will require great care on the part of the electors. Many, however, have been able to grow the Incurved varieties for years, but have not had the same experience with the Japanese, as these are of far more recent introduction, and it is impossible for one grower to have them all. Some of the new varieties are both beautiful, distinct, and very large when well grown, and the same may be said of many of the older varieties. Before the election is begun, however, would it not be as well to mention whether they are to be elected for exhibition or decorative purposes ? as some that are suitable for the first are not the best for the latter purpose. Many of the varieties, too, differ greatly as to their time of flowering ; and as many small growers have not the knowledge in selecting the kinds, or the indoor con¬ venience with heat, &c. — namely, for forwarding some and retard¬ ing others, their time of flowering generally should be specified. In referring to Mr. Davis’s letter, I certainly must disagree with him in classing Hermione or Countess of Granville as reflexed varieties. The former is white tipped pink, has incurved florets from the first time it begins to expand, and makes a medium-size, compact, incurved flower when at its best ; after that, through the petals being of slight texture, they will reflex, as will many of our first-class varieties. My idea of a reflexed flower is that the petals reflex from the centre from the very first, such as is the case with the three Christines, Dr. Sharpe, Beaute du Nord, Em¬ peror of China, Chevalier Domage, &c. Countess of Granville is one of the very best late whites we have for cutting purposes, though an old one ; the petals, being rather stiff, keep fresh for a long time. This has been considered to be like Duchess of Teck, but it is two shades purer white. The former will make a fine exhibition flower, which the other will not. — Wm. ETHERINGTON, The Gardens, Manor House, S»vanscombe, Kent. We have received from the Science and Art Department, by direction of the Lords of the Committee of Council on Educa¬ tion, a precis of a communication which has been received by that Department from the Foreign Office, relative to an Inter¬ national Horticultural Exhibition to be held at Mar¬ seilles on the 19th May next, of which the President requests full publicity and that facilities be afforded to intending exhibitors. - Relative to Gladioli failures, “ J. W. M., Clonmel ,” sends us his authority for suggesting, on page 157, that Mr. Banks left his “ choice hybrids out in the winter,” and on this letter our correspondent was quite justified in founding his remarks, which were penned in good faith, and as the matter now stands he accepts “ D., Deal's ,” negative (page 178) on the point in question. - Croydon Horticultural Society.— We are informed that the Summer Exhibition and Rose Show of this Society will be held on Wednesday, June 27th, - An Ipswich correspondent sends us blooms of Cine¬ raria Clipper, a handsome variety, which is remarkable for the rich purplish-crimson colour of the large flowers. These are also of good form, though not quite so symmetrical as some that have been obtained in recent years, and*the florets are very numerous, giving the bloom a full appearance. - Mr. Cannell has sent us a box of Primulas, and asks “ what we think of them ? ” We think very highly of the flowers before us, which in size, form, substance, and variety of colours we have not seen surpassed. There are twelve distinct varieties, ranging from white, yellow, blush, lilac, rose, pink, crimson, to the rich Swanley Red. Such flowers could only have been pro¬ duced by high cultivation. - We referred last week to large consignments of CUT flowers from France which are now being sold extensively in London. Messrs. Collins Brothers and Gabriel, 39, Waterloo Road, S.E., have sent us a sample of what they are receiving. These comprise Anemone fulgens, which i3 the brightest flower in the market now, a double variety, neat and attractive ; and a primrose-coloured Bulbocodium, Corbularia citrina. This is ex¬ tremely pretty, its colour being soft and pleasing, and we are not surprised that it found so much favour in the market. The flowers do not keep so long in water as the Anemones do, which are as fresh and bright as when we received them a week ago. - Mr. Dodwell writes as follows from Stanley Road, Oxford, under date March 3rd : — “With reference to the pro¬ posed Carnation and Picotee Show to be held in the grounds of Mr. Charles Turner, The Royal Nursery, Slough, on July 31st, will you be good enough to permit me to supplement my letter you gave publicity to last week by saying large subscriptions are not sought ? If everyone who has known and admired Mr. Turner’s work will kindly send me a postal order for Is. I shall have a fund ample for all needs, and I would far prefer one thousand shillings to fifty subscriptions of £1 each.” - The thirteenth Exhibition of the Bristol Chrysan¬ themum and Spring Show Society will be held in the Victoria Rooms, Queen’s Road, Bristol, on Wednesday and Thursday, March 14th and 15th. Prizes are offered by the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 8, 1883. ] 197 Society in twenty-seven classes for bulbs, miscellaneous plants, flowers, and fruits, which include a four-guinea silver cup for the best collection of plants in bloom, and the Royal Horticultural Society’s bronze Knightian medal for a group. In addition to these special prizes are offered in twenty classes by gentlemen and ladies residing in the neighbourhood of Bristol, and a Royal Horticultural Society’s silver Knightian medal is offered for the best twelve Hyacinths in any class. - Mg. E. R. Cutler writes : — “ I have had an interview with Mr. Alderman Cotton, M.P. for the City of London, and he has most kindly consented to preside at the fortieth anniversary dinner of the Gardeners’ Royal Benevolent Institution in aid of the funds of this institution, and has named Wednesday, the 4th July, for that purpose. The Alderman stated that he will do all in his power to promote the interests of the Society ; he will be very disappointed if he does not receive assistance from the trade generally.” - A pamphlet of fifteen pages on the culture and EXHIBITION OP THE Chrysanthemum has been published by Mr. W. Jupp, gardener to G. Boulton, Esq., Torfield, Eastbourne. Ten pages only are devoted to the history and culture, which are, therefore, treated very briefly, the remaining five pages giving lists of varieties. It is fairly accurate, but does not treat the subject so fully as is desirable. - Relating to Pears on the Continent, Dr. Mackenzie writes to us : — “ Looking over my journal in Lombardy in 1859, I see frequent mention of ‘ fine large Pears nearly as good as Peaches at Florence, Bologna, Mantua, Milan, and Turin in March and April at 1 d. each,’ such as Is. each would not obtain from Covent Garden at that time of year. They were in quantities on street barrows and shops — a plain, light brown, ordinary large pear-shaped fruit, needing caution if bitten, lest ‘ fileing ains claes.’ What is that Pear’s name ?” It is the Winter Bon Chr&tien, but will not succeed anything like so well in this country, - Planting Forest Trees in Ireland.— Dr. Lyons, M.P., having suggested that employment might be found for consider¬ able numbers of the Irish people who are in distress if the old forests could be restored to the country, liberal gifts of young trees have been offered for the purpose. Messrs. Little and Ballantyne of Carlisle offer twenty thousand trees ; Messrs* Dixon & Son of Cheltenham follow this with a promise of fifty thousand ; Messrs. Hogg & Robertson of Dublin and Scotland, forty thousand. Several thousands are also promised by Messrs. Bell & Sons of Hexham, and Mr. O. H. Higgins of Clonmel. - Relative to the importation of vegetables, “Land” says : — “ By the opening of the St. Gothard Railway this country seems to be benefiting hardly less than those more immediately affected. Early fruit and vegetables are now conveyed without transhipment from all parts of Italy to Ostend, Antwerp, and Rotterdam, whence they are brought by fast steamers to London and other British ports. We understand that the Great Eastern Railway alone has within a few months brought over six thousand tons of such produce.” - Mr. William Taylor, Longleat Gardens, Warminster writes : — “ I send a sample of what I consider a perfect substi¬ tute for Maidenhair Fern. What is your opinion 1 It con¬ sists of selected growths from a vigorous plant of the common Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana). The small piece with matting tied on it is a sample of unsuitable growth from the same kind of tree. It will keep fresh a long time out of water.” We consider it admirable for the purpose, and have frequently seen it employed in a similar manner, the only objection to it being that the green is rather dark and dull, not so fresh and bright as Maidenhair Fern fronds. Readers will understand that the growths employed are those with very diminutive scale-like leaves which are pressed closely to the slender branchlets ; the unsuitable portion is that which produces normal leaves. There are some species of Frenela or Callitris which produce even more graceful and slender shoots than the Juniperms; but they are comparatively scarce, and as the other is so readily obtained it might often be employed when Fern fronds are scarce, or to increase the diversity of foliage in stands. - A daily paper says — “ The exportation op maize from the United States will receive a severe check now that a com¬ mencement has been made with the manufacture of glucose sugar ; for, unless many more acres of Indian corn are cultivated, there will be little maize to spare. A factory is nearly completed in Chicago which will consume about twelve thousand bushels of maize daily, and produce about thirty thousand tons of sugar yearly. Maple sugar and sorghum are unequal to the demand, but besides mere sugar there is the manufacture of alcohol, a liquid which enters into so many of the arts of the present day, and which in the United States can be produced as cheaply from maize as from any other starch-containing substance. In the far west maize has been a “ drug ” for years, so much so that it was actually cheaper to burn it for fuel than to buy wood or coal ; but as the Chicago factory is only the forerunner of others, there is smaller chance of cheap maize coming to this country.” - A correspondent sends the following note in reference to A land of Peaches. — “In the neighbourhood of Sydney* Australia, such fruits as the Peach, Nectarine, Apricot, Plum, Fig, Grape, Cherry, and Orange are as plentiful as Black¬ berries. The orangeries and orchards of New South Wales are among its sights ; and in the neighbourhood of Sydney and round Port Jackson there are beautiful groves of Orange trees, which extend in some places down to the water’s edge. Individual settlers have groves which yield as many as thirty thousand dozen Oranges per annum. One may there literally ‘sit under his own Vine and Fig tree.’ If a Peach stone is thrown down in almost any part of Australia where there is a little moisture a tree will spring up, which in a few years will yield handsomely. A well-known botanist used formerly to carry with him, during extensive travels, a small bag of Peach stones to plant in suitable places, and many a wandering settler has blessed him since. Pigs were formerly fed on Peaches, as was done in California, a country much resembling Southern Australia ; it is only of late years they have been utilised in both places by drying or otherwise pre¬ serving. A basketload may be obtained in the Sydney markets for a few pence. The summer heat of Sydney is about that of Naples, while its winter corresponds with that of Sicily.” - The American Gardeners' Monthly gives the following on Wet Weather and the Growth op Trees : — “ It is said that some scientific society has instituted a series of experiments to find out in the far away past which were the wet and which were the dry seasons, by having examined the thickness of annual growths of wood in old trunks. It is surprising that any intelli¬ gent body in these days should not know better than this. Wood is not plastered over the old series, as a painter would put one coat on the coat which had gone before, but is an act of vital power proceeding from the cells of wood of the preceding year or season’s growth. The amount of wood deposited depends very much on the food to be had in the vicinity of the little cells which have to make the new mass. If, say, at 10 feet from the ground there be a little branch with leaves having a chance to make food, the annual ring of wood will be thicker just below than at 2 or 3 feet lower down. In fact if we cut a trunk across at half a dozen places, and take any one side of the trunk for examination, we shall find the ‘annual ring’ of any one year varying in thickness. One section would tell us it rained that JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 198 [ March 8, 1883. year like a deluge, while another section of the same tree would tell us that particular year was the driest on record. However, if this is not sufficient, it may be as well to add that Sir Herbert Christison, the great Scotch chemist, has made some curious ob¬ servations on the effects of a cold wet season in diminishing the normal growth of trees. He found on careful measurement that, comparing 1879 with 1878, eleven deciduous trees — not Oaks — made on an average 41 per cent, less growth in the last year than in the year before. Of seventeen Pine trees the average deficiency was 20 per cent., so that heat appears to have more to do with the making of wood than moisture has. It is strange that the growth of the Oak, which drops its leaves, seems less dependent on heat than that of the Pine, which we usually associate with very cold regions.” CULTURE OF CINERARIAS. The Cineraria is one of the most useful, showy, and at the same time easily managed plants in cultivation for the embellish¬ ment of the conservatory and greenhouse during the winter and spring months ; and as it is a plant that comes within the reach of everyone possessing a couple of ordinary garden frames and a greenhouse from which frost and excessive damp can be ex¬ cluded, a few cultural details respecting its management, and which if followed will lead to success, may not be unacceptable to those of your readers who hitherto have not succeeded so well as they could have wished in its cultivation. A packet of seed from a good strain should be obtained and three sowings made of it — viz., one the middle of March, another the middle of April, and the third a month later. These sowings will supply a succession of plants. The seed should be sown in light fine soil, which has been previously made firm in the pot, covered lightly with fine sandy soil, over which place a piece of glass and damp moss, and then stand or plunge the pot in a Melon or Cucumber frame. As soon as the seedlings appear through the soil remove the moss, and when large enough to handle prick them out in pans or boxes and return them to the frame, where a look-out must be kept for slugs, which are very destructive to seedlings of this description. Bearing this in mind, and that “ prevention is better than cure,” it will be advisable to make a line of fresh soot and lime round the pans and boxes con¬ taining the seedlings, which, by repeating the application twice a week, will keep the pests at bay. The young plants should be well shaded from sunshine until their roots have taken to the soil. Potting. — As soon as the seedlings are established into useful little plants in the pans or boxes into which they had been trans¬ planted, take them up carefully by the assistance of a stout label, with as much soil as possible adhering to their roots, and pot them off singly in 3-inch pots in a compost consisting of three parts light loam and one of leaf soil, and a good dash of sharp sand, which should be pressed moderately firm, keeping the stems of the plants the same depth out of the soil as they were before ; and I may here remark that this is a point, and a very essential point too, that should be observed every time the plants are being potted, as the cause of the plants frequently “ going off ” is to be attributed to their having been potted too deeply. The plants when potted should be placed on sifted coal ashes in a frame near the glass, watered through a fine rose to settle the soil about the roots, and shaded for four or five hours on bright days, as the plants are very susceptible to injury from bright sunshine. As soon as the plants have partly filled the 3-inch pots with roots they should be shifted into o-inch pots (a useful size for furnish¬ ing purposes), ramming the soil between the sides of the pot and the ball of the plant with a flat stick ; and if large specimens are aimed at the plants should have two more shifts — -viz., into 7-inch and again into 9-inch pots, always bearing in mind that after the plants have produced their flower-spikes there is no use in giving them larger pots with the object of increasing their size, and that where large plants are desired the latter should not be allowed to become root-bound before being placed in their flowering pots. The pots should be properly drained by placing a large piece of potsherd over the hole in the bottom of the pot, then several pieces of smaller ones, and finish off by filling-in the chinks with pieces which have been through a quarter-inch sieve, altogether a little less than one-third the depth of the pots, and over all place a handful of sphagnum moss, which will prevent the soil coming in immediate contact with the drainage. Watering the Plants. — This is an operation that should be carried out (like every other cultural detail that has for its object success) with judgment — that is to say, the operator should know when to apply water and withhold it from the roots of the plants, and when they have had enough to thoroughly moisten the balls of earth and roots ; and again, that pots full of roots require more water than those only partly filled ; also that plants which have filled their pots with hungry roots will be considerably benefited by being watered alternately with diluted liquid manure. If the plants are, as they should be, thoroughly moist at the roots when being shifted into larger pots they will not require to be watered for several days afterwards — not until the roots have pushed into the new soil and nearly absorbed the moisture therefrom. But at this stage of their growth the plants — which, as I have already hinted, and on account of their soft watery growth require more shading than most other plants — should have the shading put on earlier in the morning and left on longer in the afternoon for a few days, and when removed the plants should be dewed with the syringe — a procedure that may be repeated with advantage to the plants every bright afternoon during the summer months. Air-giving and Situation Suitable to the Plants. — The Cineraria in) every stage of its growth may be termed a fresh-air-loving plant, but does not like it when admitted in currents. Our own practice during the months of June, July, and August is to leave plenty of air on all night ; indeed, when the nights are quite still and fine overhead we draw the sashes off altogether, tilting them again in the morning. If the frames — which should be placed facing the north during the months of June, July, and August — are deep, a platform, upon which should be put a couple of inches of sifted coal ashes, should be raised so as to bring the plants near to the glass, lower¬ ing it again as they require more headroom ; sufficient of which they should have every way and at all stages of their growth to properly develope themselves. The Cineraria, provided the cultural details are properly car¬ ried out, will, during the winter and spring months, flourish in any light structure where the plants can be kept near the glass (to prevent their being drawn), and from which excessive damp, which would cause mildew to attack them, and frost can be ex¬ cluded. The plants, especially so if they are subject to forcing, and to which process they do not readily respond, are liable to the attacks of green fly ; and to eradicate this they should be fumigated lightly with tobacco paper a couple of nights in succes¬ sion, syringing the plants next morning and ventilating them freely, weather permitting. Seed-saving. — When the plants are in flower the cultivator should save seed from the most distinct colours and best formed flowers, and in this way, by judicious selection every year, he will in time become the possessor of a good strain. Thus grown, we have had this spring several hundred plants of Cineraria, ranging from 1 to 2£ feet through, and furnished to the base with luxuriant foliage, above which are fine heads of flowers of various shades of colour. They are in houses in which the temperature ranges from 35° to 50° at night. In a cut state, especially when intermixed with the feathery flowers of Spirasa japonica, and garnished with the beautiful Fern-like foliage of the latter plant, the Cineraria is admirably adapted for the embellishment of vases, &c., as the flowers, in addition to the variety of pleasing colours which they supply, keep well in water. — H. W. Ward, Longford Castle. THE HORSE CHESTNUT. A discussion has recently been held at our gardeners’ meeting as to the origin of the above name as applied to the well-known tree, but without any decision being arrived at, and it was sug¬ gested that I should write to you on the subject ; also I am de¬ sired to ask if there is a Chestnut having flowers as double as a Hyacinth, as opinions were about equally divided on that question. — Secretary. [As to the first question, Gerarde may have been right, who wrote about the period when the tree was first introduced here, when he said it is called “ Horse Chesnut, for that the people of the East countries do with the fruit thereof cure their horses of the cough, shortnesse of breath, and such-like diseases ;” but we rather think that the prefix “ horse ” was merely employed to denote harshness and powerful flavour, as in the case of Horse¬ radish. As to the second question, a figure is submitted of a spike that was grown at Sawbridgeworth several years ago. The variety is of continental origin, and is grown in most nurseries.] NEPENTHES. These plants are very useful for decorative purposes, and not at all difficult of culture, the wonder is they are not more generally grown. The present is the time to attend to their requirements, no plants better repaying for the attention given them. Nepenthes March 8, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 199 in small baskets are unique for table since plants can be had in those for the smaller size and 6 inches for the larger size. Teak is the 6 inches square, and fine specimens in others 12 inches square, the most suitable material for making the baskets. Strips half an depth being proportionate to the size of the baskets — about 4 inches inch square for the smaller size, and an inch square for the larger, Fig. 56.— The double-flowering horse chestnut. the edges in each case being bevelled. The plants do well in peat particles, using the more fibry parts only. They may also be alone, pulling it in pieces, rejecting the coarse roots and small grown in fibrous peat, chopped sphagnum, and crocks and 200 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t March s, isss. charcoal — one-third each of the two former, and the two latter combined in similar proportions. If grown in pots good drainage is essential. Plants in small baskets or pots may have a shift into larger, but avoid too much root space. Those in large baskets or pots should have all the old sour fibre removed and fresh supplied, yet there must not be any attempt at disrooting. Nepenthes like a strong heat, plenty of atmospheric moisture, and shade from powerful sun, otherwise keep them well up to the glass. A night temperature of 70°, and 75° by day from fire heat, and 80° to 85" from sun heat, will suit them well. The best pitchers are produced on young growths, and to get new growths from the base and additional shoots most plants will require to be shortened back, as they break freely from the ripened growth. This gives the plants a fresh appearance, keeps them dwarf, and is the way the best pitchers are obtained. The tops removed may be made into cuttings — ie., the ripe brown parts, but the green unripe soft tops are of no use. Three joints are ample, cutting them transversely below the lowest, and removing the leaf and shortening the others to economise space, or tie them up loosely. These may be inserted singly in thumb pots in cocoa-nut fibre refuse or sphagnum and small crocks. Plunge in a propagating frame where there is a brisk heat until rooted, which requires some time, as they do not root very quickly, and ventilate a little so as to prevent too great an accumulation of moisture. When rooted remove them, but not to a dry atmosphere, and after they have been inured to the temperature and atmosphere of the stove they may be placed in peat fibre in small baskets or a larger size of pot, and allowed to make as much growth as they will the first year, and afterwards be cut back to induce branching from the base. For decorative purposes N. Chelsoni, N. Hookeriana, N. Eaffles- iana, and N. sanguinea are admirable. N. ampullacea vittata, N. albo-marginata, N. Domini, N. hybrida maculata, N. intermedia, N. gracilis major, and N. Sedeni are very useful. N. distillatoria succeeds in an intermediate temperature. For furnishing damp walls N. ampullacea, N. hybrida, N. laevis, and N. phyllamphora are well adapted. Amongst the new forms N. Mastersiana is especially promising, and will undoubtedly become a great favourite. Thrips are their greatest enemy, which is best kept under by affording plenty of moisture. In order to keep the pitchers fresh as long as possible, those fully developed should have a little water in them, as if allowed to become dry they sooner become brownish. — G. Abbey. CROSS-BREEDING PRIMULAS AND AURICULAS. {Continued from page 170.) Let us look now for a moment at the florist at work. He wishes to raise nothing but thrum-eyed flowers ; but Nature will not be so coerced, for although he employs only thrum-eyed flowers, Nature struggles to restore the balance necessary to the natural perpetuation of the species, and for all his care pin-eyed flowers appear. But he obtains a few seeds, because he takes pollen from long stamens to apply to short pistils. He obtains some seed because the strength of pollen grains varies greatly, and occasionally weak grains, throwing out weak tubes, too weak to burst the ovules, furnish the operator with a scanty return, which produce weakly plants that have to be coddled and petted in frames and in pots, and often at last fall victims to insect enemies, dwindle, and die. When such seed is sold to the ordinary lover of flowers, who is no florist, who wants beautiful flowers and plenty of them, but has no time for growing Auriculas in pots, or even no frame, he is greatly disappointed. He little knows the trouble with which good seed is raised. But why should not all such grow border Auriculas? The answer is that these, though they are attractive enough, want the brightness and beauty of the beautiful Alpine varieties seen at shows. Then we ask, “ Why not grow Alpine Auriculas without frames, but outside in beds and borders ? ” Those who have tried will probably answer that they are not hardy enough, that they die in winter, and besides grow so weakly and produce such unsatisfactory flowers that the game is not worth the candle. Their price, too, is a drawback. Auriculas may be produced from fine florists’ kinds possessing all the beauty of the Alpine section, with all the robustness and all the floriferousness of the very hardiest border kinds, if only some pains be taken to raise seed, not according to the artificial plan followed by the florist, but by Nature’s plan, which produces vigour and hardiness. “ But,” the reader may ask, “ is not this theory only ? Has it been done ? can a really hardy robust race be raised from such tenderlings ? ” The writer of this has produced such results, and he feels confidence in promising anyone else the same, and really good Auriculas are such beautiful plants that it will repay the trouble of anyone who will undertake to produce them. Convinced of these facts, but not having proved them, and enamoured of the beauty of Alpine Auriculas as seen in a good collection, but having neither plants nor frames at his disposal, the writer some years ago bought a half-crown packet of Alpine Auricula seed from a well-known firm in order to try what could be done. The packet was small and the seed germinated badly, so much so that some dozen or so weakly plants was the result. These, by careful nursing, flowered the spring after sowing. One was discarded because of its washy colour, and one or two because the stems were so weak that the weight of the truss bent them over, thus allowing the flower to be spoilt. The others, all different, were as bright in colour as any named Alpine, if not so exquisite in form. Some were thrum and some were pin-eyed, and all produced seed freely. Anxious to improve their constitu¬ tional vigour, and not trusting wholly to natural fertilisation for that result, all weakly pods were removed from each truss, and the plants supplied with a little weak liquid manure. The result was about half a teaspoonful of clean plump seed, not at all like the almost invisible grains we bought. This was sown in heat in the following spring ; the plants pricked off as soon as they had four leaves, using light loam, leaf soil, and sand ; finally planted out 3 or 4 inches apart in a bed well enriched with thoroughly decayed manure forked into the surface only, and protected by a frame light, shaded when necessary till June, and then left to take care of themselves till the following spring. The winter was exceedingly severe, the temperature falling more than once below zero, but not a plant was injured. Every plant flowered, and there were hundreds of them, and hardly one had to be discarded. They were all the shades imaginable, and the individual trusses and pips were extremely large, much larger than are ever seen in named varieties. About one half were thrum, and the other pin¬ eyed, and so good were the former that none but a florist could have pointed out in what they were inferior to the others. The pin-eyes would have all been rejected, but we are bound in truth to say that in brightness and beauty they were not a whit behind any named Alpines ever seen, while in floriferousness and vigour they were far before them. Selection on the same principle as before was carried out, and the chosen one planted in a border prepared as the bed had been. There they grew amazingly — so much so as to both delight and surprise us. The following winter was wet, and this district is an exceptionally wet one, and sometimes very frosty. The border was fully exposed to all weathers, but not one succumbed, and when spring came each plant produced from six to twelve trusses, producing such a show as was never seen in any collection of named Alpines. As there were two or three hundred plants an enormous amount of bloom was the result, and there was enough for glasses, for friends, and to spare. Again seed was selected, again sown, again the plants flowered the year after being sown, and again with the same satisfactory results — indeed even more so, for an even greater variety was produced — shades and shaded flowers of rare beauty, such as we had never seen before, and all possessing a constitutional vigour surpassing any ordinary border varieties (these latter we have now wholly discarded). Having now hundreds to choose from our selection became severe, and many flowers, more beautiful than at one time was hoped for, combined with hardiness and vigour, were given away, for very numerous were the applications that were made for “ one or two plants.” These a florist, a pos¬ sessor and lover of florists’ varieties, saw when in bloom, and was constrained to say that never out of doors had he seen such fine Auriculas. This we took to be real praise, for so fond of them is the individual referred to, that he has made pilgrimages hundreds of miles to see famed collections. About two tablespoonfuls of seed was saved last summer from our best varieties, and this my late employer has kindly allowed me to do what I like with ; he has enough and to spare of fine plants, he says. This seed I intended to sow, and secure if possible still greater improvements, but this, owing to my illness, I am afraid I shall not be able to do. Auricula seed does not keep well, and as it is now fresh, and perhaps some of your readers fond of Auriculas, but without time or appliances to grow the more delicate named varieties, may be inclined to begin where I left off. I shall be glad to forward packets on the terms mentioned below to all who may apply for them as long as the supply lasts ; and I may add, Now is the best time to sow, and by all means in heat, as the plants are all the more likely to flower next spring ; in fact, are certain to do so if properly treated. When no heat is at com¬ mand they may be sown under a handglass in April ; but they will come in quicker under glass, even though it should only be a greenhouse. Sow in a box, the soil becomes dry less quickly, than JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 8, 1883. ] in a pot. Never allow the soil to be dry, and to prevent the necessity for frequent waterings shade with thick paper till the seedlings appear. They will thrive anywhere in the northern counties, but in the southern they are greatly benefited by being shaded from the mid¬ day sun. Copious waterings in very hot dry weather are of great advantage. — Single-handed. [In consideration of the severe and protracted illness of our esteemed correspondent, who is now in a public institution, we shall be glad to distribute this seed for him, and will forward packets containing one hundred seeds for 1.?., or three packets for 2s. Gd., in the rotation that the letters of applicants are opened, return¬ ing the stamps, less one for postage, to those who may send them after the supply of seed is exhausted. We should prefer, however, that an extra stamp be sent for defraying the postage of the packets, and we presume those who apply will be glad to send it. Some wonderfully vigorous trusses and richly coloured flowers of this excellent strain of Alpine Auriculas were sent to us last year. We may add, in answer to inquiries, that although “ Single- handed ” is, we trust, steadily recovering, some time must elapse before he will be able to resume his employment ; but if he cannot wield the spade, it is a satisfaction to observe he can “ lift the pen.”] SO-CALLED LARGE BUNCHES OF GRAPES. I READ and reasoned over the article by “ Druid ” on this subject, which appeared on page 53. He begins by announcing that he does not propose to deal with the question whether they are genuine and bond fide single bunches, and is found a little further on remarking on the “ sore dissatisfaction ” which past exhibits of large bunches have caused, and “ justly so, too, in many cases.” This last quotation makes “ Druid ” deal with the question in a manner that leaves no doubt on the mind — at least on mine — that he considers many of the past exhibits of large bunches to have been the reverse of bona fide. The cluster of Grapes figured on the page quoted does not appear to me a 60-called bunch, but in reality one bunch. What I consider con¬ stitutes two bunches is when they come direct fiom the lateral without joining, as in fig. 57. I cannot gather from “ Druid ” if he manipulated the bunch figured in the way he says can be done so easily. A little clearer information on the matter would be acceptable to me, and I dare¬ say to others who have in times past shown large bunches which were not subjected to the splicing treatment which “ Druid ” says can be so easily practised. I, for one, entirely fail to see that “ Druid ” has proved anything by his writing and the bunch figured ; it is neither more nor less than one bunch as it appears in your paper, having only one stem proceeding from the lateral that bears it. Trusting “ Druid ” will make himself clearer on the subject, so that there may be a chance of comprehending him. — A Grower. [What our correspondent alludes to as the “ stem,” is really the lateral bearing two distinct bunches so close together as to form one cluster. There is no splicing, and the only manipulation required is to stop the lateral after two bunches have been formed, 201 and remove the foliage. What is termed by “A Grower” the “ lateral ” is really a sub-lateral induced by the stopping and de¬ foliation of the original, and is encouraged to form the leading shoot. Perhaps “Druid” can make the matter more plain.] A SUBSTITUTE FOR PEAT IN ORCHID CULTURE. AS good Orchid peat is now very difficult to be obtained, this being proved by what Mr. Harry Yeitch states in a letter to me re¬ ceived last week — viz., “ Orchid peat has been a great difficulty with us lately on account of the excessive rainfall, which has made it difficult to procure. I fear it may be weeks, if not months, before we could send you any ; it becomes scarcer every season.” Under these circumstances, and as a substitute, I am going to try the outer shell of the Cocoa-nut chopped up into pieces suitable to the size of the pot. Will other growers give this a trial and let us know the result? — Alex. Paterson, M.D., Fernfield, Bridge of Allan. THE INSECT ENEMIES OF OUR GARDEN CROPS.— No. 2. When they are regarded in their general aspect, it will be agreed that the fruit crops are of less importance to the nation than are the vegetable crops. The actual nutriment afforded by fruit is below the average of that obtainable from vegetables, I should say, even if we leave the cereals out of the question ; and several fruits largely cultivated in this luxurious age serve rather to gratify the palate than to sustain life or invigorate the body. Hence we have less reason, perhaps, to regret the fact that our fruits inflict upon the growers, small and large, various disappoint¬ ments that do not occur in the culture of vegetables. With many of our garden vegetables a few months embrace the wffiole period of growth, and if one crop fails another can frequently be raised to succeed it ; while in the dull season there is little to be done by way of precaution against insects, except to watch against enemies lurking underground. But fruit-bearing trees and shrubs require attention of a special kind during their period of rest, when they are liable to the attacks of minute and crafty insect foes. Changes of weather, cold winds, drenching rains, lack of sunshine, also affect unfavourably the fruits more than they do the humbler products of our gardens ; and the insects by which they are haunted during the summer season are sometimes of gregarious habit, so that by their numbers and activity they are apt to baffle all the gardener’s efforts. In the preceding article an attempt was made to sum up briefly those insects that are chiefly destructive to garden vegetables. A few of them are also injurious to the leaves or roots of shrubs and trees, those I shall not here recapitulate. Then there are cases where an inrect in its mature state does harm to our fruit, while as grub or larva it had previously attacked our vegetables. Some of the insects found upon fruit trees have no special liking for them, but the moths or other species during their flight lay eggs promiscuously upon the leaves or twigs that may come in their way. It is for this reason an objection has been raised to the familiar Hawthorn hedge, because sundry caterpillars feeding upon it, as also upon the Blackthorn, Ash, Elm, and Lime, soon make themselves at home upon such trees as the Plum, Pear, Apple, or Peach. But it might be argued on the other hand that the presence of a variety of trees may draw off some of the enemies of our fruits. As amongst the vegetable produce the Lepidoptera, comprising the butterflies and moths, may take the lead, for not less than thirty species of these can be reckoned upon the list of the foes to fruit. Beginning at the root, every part of a tree or shrub has its regular or occasional enemy : in some cases, however, the harm done is but slight, amounting merely to disfigurement of the foliage. And again, concerning several tiny caterpillars and grubs which bore into and so destroy a per-centage of the buds or fruit trees almost every year, it has been suggested that their office is, within certain limits, a useful one ; they remove part of the bloom to give the remainder a better chance of maturing into fruit. It is possible for them to be too abundant, and then the ministry of insect-eating birds comes in ; but it is the fashion now, both in Britain and on the Continent, to discourage some of our best friends of the feathered race. We have not a butterfly that is harmful to fruit, though the Black-veined White was formerly complained of. Of the moths the two largest attack the wood of trees and not their fruit ; these are familiarly called the Goat and the Wood Leopard. Their caterpillars, which live many months, live unseen for the most part until their destructive labours are finished. Possibly a portion of the trees they infest JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 202 [ March 8, 1883. have an unsoundness previously which invites such attacks. The Currant Clearwing, a little fly-like species, tunnels in the Currant pith ; and its relative, the Red-belted, performs upon the Apple, Pear, and rarely on the Apricot. Our Gooseberries have their caterpillar, in some seasons a great pest to them, and also to the Currant. The leaves of the trees in our orchards and upon our walls are seldom free from the traces of the jaws of caterpillars, and if undisturbed, one or two such prolific species as the Little Ermine and the Winter Moth may spoil our success for years. Others prefer, as already noted, the buds or flowers, or they enter the fruit like the Codlin Moth in its larval stage, and the red grub of the Plum. The beetles, or Coleoptera, are represented by more than a dozen species prejudicial to fruit. The majority of these belong to those curiously snouted fellows, the weevils. There is a weevil that frequents the blossom of the Apple, and the Pear has a similar species which feeds upon the leaf as well as on the flower buds. Several species in the genus Otiorhynchus, especially the insect called the “ black weevil,” are injurious to the Vine, the Straw¬ berry, and various fruit trees. One or two of the weevils have a fancy for the young leaves of Peach and Plum. The Apple bark beetle, a Scolytus, does not kill, but probably weakens the trees it visits, and the notorious S. destructor is credited with the de¬ struction of some old trees that would still be good fruit-bearers if let alone. There are beetles which in their larval state feed upon the roots of various plants, and they — the Rose Chafer is an example — may lurk beneath the Currant bushes or in our Straw¬ berry beds. A number of beetles, hitherto deemed beneficial, as carnivorous by habit, have now got a bad repute because they have been detected feeding upon Strawberries, perhaps through scarcity of their natural food. Every season the Nut Weevil takes its share of our crop of Filberts, for its attacks cannot be guarded against. When we come to the order Hymenoptera we are at once reminded of the hornet and the wasp, species fond of fruit, yet also killers of a variety of other insects. Far worse enemies are the grubs or larvae of some of the saw fly family. One of the very familiar species swarms upon the Gooseberry in certain (or rather uncertain) seasons. The Plum and Pear have also their species. Yet more disgusting, if less injurious, are the slug worms of the genus Selandria, and it is very difficult to remove them from trees, although we may clear the bushes and saplings of the insects and their slimy deposit. We have not much to say against the Diptera or two-winged flies, but of course they will visit ripe fruit. Some of them, like some in the preceding order, are para¬ sites upon caterpillars, and so they check the increase of trouble¬ some garden species. A formidable yet minute array of disagreeable insects is pre¬ sented by the Hemipterous order. Here belong the aphis hosts, the so-called “ American blight,” nearly allied to them, all of prolific habit and given to sucking, whereby more harm is done to vegetation than by the simple act of biting or nibbling. Then there are the scale insects, very pertinacious if less abundant than the aphides. Against the Vine bug (Coccus Vitis) there is need of careful precaution in our houses ; and the grubs of the Psyllae, which occur on various parts of the Apple and Pear, make their visitations more troublesome by clothing themselves with patches of a downy substance. Amongst the wingless insects the centi¬ pedes, although predatory at times, like to enter stone fruit ; especially is this the case with the smaller kinds. The red spider, as it is popularly termed, is a spinning mite or Acarus ; with sundry species of its tribe it holds a place intermediate between true insects and spiders. Other Acari occur on fruit trees ; one or two species appear to feed sometimes upon the scale insects. Some of the insect enemies of our fruit and vegetables also haunt flowerbeds or greenhouses; but in the present imperfect condi¬ tion of our knowledge it would be difficult to give a summary grouping the foes of floriculture. — Entomologist. r By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments .] HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. Filberts ana Nuts. — The pink fruit-producing blossom is now open and is abundant on all kinds of Nuts, but the crop will probably prove a failure, for the catkins that should now be yellow with pollen have all been destroyed by the wet winter, with the exception of a few of Pearson’s Prolific, which may afford sufficient pollen to insure a crop of that valuable and very hardy Nut. We have repeatedly recommended it as a sure and abundant cropper of robust sturdy growth, thriving perfectly in soil where the delicate Red Filbert will hardly exist, and this year it appears likely to confirm our high opinion of it. The pruning of all sorts of Nuts should be proceeded with forth¬ with. The best form for the trees is that of a shallow basin, which is imparted by pulling the branches downwards and outwards with strings fastened to pegs driven into the ground, and by pruning the top of each branch to a bud on the under side the lateral growth is pruned closely to spurs, an occasional shoot bearing plenty of catkins being left 6 or 8 inches long to afford pollen. This unfortunately cannot be well done this year. Strong young growths crowding the interior of any trees must be cut clean off close to the base, and all suckers be removed carefully without injury to the roots, a few of the most promising being selected for the nursery to make trees for future requirements. Protecting Fruit Blossom. — Have the materials for protection at hand when required, but do not use them till the blossom begins to expand. Full exposure now tends to retard the swelling buds, and every day so gained adds to our prospects of a crop of fruit. A little extra care and pains now in sheltering the blossom from cold wind and late frost may crown the labours of the past twelve months with success, and make all the difference between scarcity and abundance. Sorts of fruit which naturally flower late are of especial value from their immunity from the risk of harm to which earlier kinds are so liable. Much valuable know¬ ledge of this important matter may be gained by close observation at this season of the year. For example, we observe now among pyramidal Pear trees that the buds of Nouvelle Fulvie, Duchesse d’Orleans, and Beurrd Duhaume are all white and full to bursting, while close by Knight’s Monarch, Urbaniste, and Pitmaston Duchess have hardly a sign of animation ; and of espaliers side by side the buds of Beurre Hardy are quite dormant, but those of Beurrd d’Anjou are just bursting open. So, too, among Apples and Plums in the open, and Peaches and Nectarines on walls, the same difference is perceptible. Blossom is also tender only in degree, that of some varieties bearing exposure to cold much better than others. All this, of course, applies to ordinary seasons, and not to weather of such exceptional severity as we experienced last spring. FRUIT-FORCING. Peaches and Nectarines. — Thinning in the earliest house must be proceeded with gradually, removing a few of the least promis¬ ing fruits daily, avoiding as far as possible sudden changes ; and as bright powerful sun may now be expected, air should be given early and gradually, and be reduced in the same way, as the Peach and Nectarine suffer more from sudden fluctuations of temperature than most fruit trees. It will be necessary for the present, and until after the stoning is completed, to maintain a night tempera¬ ture of 55° to 60° according to external influences, with a rise of 10° to 15° from sun heat. Syringe the trees twice on fine days, but not when the weather is dull, as the foliage should always be dry before night. The drying influence of fire heat may be counteracted by damping the walls and sprinkling the floors with tepid liquid manure before dusk. Secure a good set in succession houses by distributing the pollen on fine days with a camel’s-hair brush, and use little water until the fruit is safe, when directions laid down for the management of the early house will need attention. See that the soil of inside borders is kept thoroughly moist, as the crop is liable to be lost or much injured through these being kept too dry at any time. Pines. — The short, dark, sunless days of the winter season have a tendency to make the foliage of these plants tender and sus¬ ceptible of injury from sudden outbursts of sunshine, such as we often experience at this time of year, which will necessitate great care in ventilation. Attend, therefore, to this matter early in the morning by admitting a little air at the top of the house where shading is not employed, so as to dissipate the moisture on the plants before the sun is very powerful. The temperature advised in our last calendar should still be maintained, and the potting of plants referred to therein should still be carried out, no further delay being permitted. See that the heat at the roots is not too powerful, as the heat in the fermenting beds rises rapidly at this season, and the new roots are quickly damaged by too much heat. Pay particular attention to watering, as in this lies the secret of success, the plants being examined at least once a week, and well supplied with tepid guano water as occasion require. Super¬ fluous suckers on fruiting plants should have their centres removed, and an abundant supply of moisture should be provided when JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 8, 1883. ] the house is closed in order to counteract the dry atmosphere likely to arise from highly heated pipes. When the beds are heated by means of hot-water pipes, and from being shallow become very dry, take advantage of a suitable opportunity to give the plants and bed a good soakiDg of tepid water, which will be highly beneficial. THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Hoses and other Climbers. — These are starting into growth much earlier than usual, and the attention they require in prun¬ ing and nailing ought at once to be bestowed upon them. Roses especially are growing rapidly, and if not already pruned as pre¬ viously advised, and early blooms are desired, they need only have all weakly growth removed with superfluous shoots, those retained to be lightly pruned and carefully secured. As most nurserymen can supply all climbing Roses in pots, they may yet be procured and planted in preference to planting in hot posi¬ tions any that may be lifted from the open ground. A varied and suitable selection consists of Cheshunt Hybrid, Gloire de Dijon, Marechal Niel, Charles Lawson, Triomphe de l’Exposition, General Jacqueminot, Duchess of Sutherland, Climbing Devoni- ensis, Madame Berard, Safrano, Souvenir d’un Ami, Du Luxem¬ bourg, Triomphe de Rennes, Brennus, Ch6nddol£, and the white and yellow Banksians. Previous to planting these or other climbers break up the ground where possible two spits deep, and work in a liberal quantity of half-decayed manure and leaf soil. If the balls are then carefully loosened, some of the roots spread out, and the whole firmly covered with good soil, a strong start will be made. Newly planted Roses ought not to be laid-in to their full length and flowered to their full extent, but should either be shortened back freely or disbudded in order to secure vigorous growth ; neither should these and other newly planted climbers be nailed to the walls till the ground has settled some¬ what, or hanging will result. Such wall plants as evergreen and deciduous Magnolias require little or no pruning, but should have all fastenings made good, and these should be strong, or heavy winds will break the growths. Strips of leather are recommended to be used. Ivies should have all loose growth removed, and this on well-established plants may be pulled off in preference to trimming off with a knife or shears, and the old leaves may be cut off where at all unsightly. A bountiful crop of young leaves will soon improve the appearance of the wall. Lay in the leading growths of Chimonanthus fragrans where required, and cut back all lateral growth, Pvrus japonica to be treated similarly. The branches also of Crataegus pyracantha, Escallonia macrantha, Hibiscuses, and Loniceras should annually be shortened, or they will soon become unsightly and devoid of bloom. Jasminum nudiflorum, and the somewhat similar, though later blooming, Forsythia viridissima, should, after blooming, have all side shoots cut back to near the main branches, and this will result in abun¬ dance of flowering shoots for next season’s display. All the fore¬ going climbers, with the exception of the Magnolias, if allowed to become thickets will be greatly improved by being cut down near to the ground, care being taken to properly train the strong young growths that will be produced subsequently. Wistaria sinensis and Bignonia capreolata should have all lateral growths spurred back to the main branches, and the latter properly secured. Similar treatment will be necessary in the case of the common Jasminum and the half-hardy Passion-flowers. The early-flower¬ ing Clematises produce blooms on the ripened growth only, and should only have this thinned out and dead growth removed. Included in this section are C. caerulea, montana, azurea grandi- flora, Lady Lanesborough, Miss Bateman, and Albert Victor. The later-flowering varieties, of which C. Jackmannii is the best known type, bloom on the current year’s growth, and therefore should be freely shortened back as well as thinned out, the aim being to secure the production of strong growths, which will insure a more lengthened supply of large flowers. Among this section such varieties as Gipsy Queen, lanuginosa, Lady C. Nevill, Mrs. G. Jackman, Robert Hanbury, Tunbridgensis, and Velutina pur¬ purea may well be grown. PLANT HOUSES. Store. — Potting in this department may now be advanced with all possible speed. Do not disturb the old balls of such plants as Crotons, Dracaenas, Dieffenbachias, Cyanophyllum mag- nificum, Sphaerogyne latifolia, and other similar plants when transferring them into larger pots. The first mentioned can be well grown in rich fibry loam, to which is added a little soot and bonedust. The second and third require a lighter soil — peat and loam in nearly equal parts, with a seventh of decayed manure will suit them. All peat is preferable for the last two, as it does not become sour so quickly. Fibry peat and charcoal should 203 form the compost for Marantas, which will now require attention. Remove carefully a good portion of the old soil from amongst their roots, and drain the pots in which they are to be placed liberally, as these plants require abundance of water when in active growth. After potting they are benefited by the applica¬ tion of bottom heat, and should be shaded from strong sun until they commence rooting freely. In repotting Alocasias remove the whole of the old compost if in any way decomposed or sour, or they will not long remain healthy. It is a good plan to remove every particle of soil from the plants every alternate year. They require a compost of fibry peat, sphagnum moss, and pieces of charcoal. The pots should be more than half filled with drainage, and the crowns well elevated above the rim. They can be in¬ creased by cutting the root stem into lengths, and if plants of good size are required a number of these can be placed together in one pot, placing a little sand round each portion. Anthuriums, such as A. Warocqueanum and A. crystallinum, require a similar compost to Alocasias, and should have liberal drainage. A. Andreanum does best when more than half the material used for potting is sphagnum moss applied in a living state, and encouraged to grow on the surface. A liberal quantity of coarse sand should be added to the whole of the different com¬ posts given above. Before potting see that the plants to be operated upon have a proper supply of moisture at the roots, so that water will not be needed for some days after potting. The temperature should now be raised to 65° at night, and the house kept close for the next fortnight, and sooner than admit air draw down the blinds for a few hours when the sun is bright. Ferns. — These generally should now be attended to and all old and disfigured fronds removed, repotting and dividing where necessary. It is a good plan to carry out these operations before many of the young fronds are produced, or they are liable to be checked, and in consequence injured. The majority of Ferns do well in a mixture of peat, loam, and sand, the former predomi¬ nating in the case of dwarf-growing varieties, while a greater quantity of loam can be used for those of robust growth. The small peat that has been shaken from amongst the fibre for several stove plants will do well for all grown in small pots, as well as others of a larger size, if a quantity of rough half-decayed leaf soil is mixed with it. The roots of the plants need not be dis¬ turbed where larger pots are needed and the plants are intended to attain a specimen size. Adiantums, Davallias, and others re¬ quired for cutting and decoration should be grown in as much light as possible, and liberally ventilated when the fronds are attaining maturity, or they will be soft and useless. Where quan¬ tities of small Ferns are in daily request for decorative purposes sow spores of Adiantums, Lomarias, Pterises, and others most suitable on the surface of pots and pans filled with a similar compost to that recommended above. Water, after sowing the seed, with a fine-rose can, and place over them a square of glass, and then stand the pans in a moist shady place in a temperature of 55°. Perhaps the best plan to maintain a constant supply of seedlings is to place under the larger plants small squares of turf, and allow them to remain for a time undisturbed until the spores have commenced falling from the plants, and in due time they will be one mass of tiny Ferns. Pteris serrulata spores germi¬ nate very freely, and is one of the best and most useful Ferns in a small state that can be grown for furnishing purposes. Keep all Ferns that require heat in a temperature of 50° to 55° at night, those excepted that require stove treatment, for they should be kept at least 5° warmer. Selaginella Brownii, S. densa, and other low-growing kinds should be replanted in pans or other positions in which they are grown annually, or they are very liable to damp off if this precaution be not taken. 1 ft HE BEE-KEEPER. I FEEDERS FOR BEES. The time has come with some, and ere these lines are in print will come with all bee-keepers, when stimulative feeding should he the rule. Is it still a question how best to accomplish this desirable object? I presume that we are all agreed that it is best to feed from the top ; but so far as my small experience goes, a perfect feeder is yet a desideratum. What, it may be asked, are the necessary qualities of a “ perfect” feeder ? It appears to me that they may be summed up in — first, the power easily to give our bees as much and as little as we please at any time; secondly, the power to prevent robbery during JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 204 [ March 8, 1883. ceding ; thirdly, ease of application. So far as my experience goes, there is the ordinary method of a short w.de-mouthed bottle turned up on a piece of perforated vulcanite — the feeder in use at the Hampshire Bee Farm — a complicated yet easily managed affair. It is, in fact, a round tin box with a round hole in the bottom, which hole goes over the aperture in the quilt. Inside is a per¬ forated tin or zinc chimney leading up from the aperture in the bottom, which chimney is surrounded by a piece of wood, and the chimney and piece of wood are covered over by a tin cover with glass top going to the floor of the feeder. The syrup is poured into the open space round this tin cover with glass top. A large cover fits over the whole. There is yet another feeder, that of Mr. Blow’s, the expert of Welwyn, Herts ; a very ingenious feeder it is in theory, but it has not proved so useful with me in practice. In this feeder a wooden stand goes over the feeding aperture, having the central portion covered with zinc, in which a semicircular piece is cut out. The zinc cap that fits most accurately on the bottle is pierced by twelve holes in a semicircle which, when the bottle is turned over- in the frame, fits the slit cut in the zinc. The cover has also a point in the centre, as it were a nail, which fits in a hole in the zinc floor ; this forms a pivot on which the bottle turns round, arid a point in the cover of the bottle points to figures on the wooden frame agreeing with the number of holes open. The ordinary bottle and vulcanite fulfils the firff condition very satisfactorily. If the vulcanite is pierced with a dozen holes at one end, and with two at the other, any rapidity of feeding can be carried on; but it does not px-event robbery, for if there be any aperture in the cover of the hive, my experience is that wasps will discover it and rob with rapidity. With all my love for the bee, I am free to confess that I agree with Sir J. Lubbock in s une things, although I think he rates our pets much too low. I agree with that enthusiastic worker in thinking that the wasp works harder and keeps longer hours than the bee. I fancy, too, that its powers of scent, or the means by which it discovers foo l, are more developed ; and I think I must go a step further and say that I think it shows more sagacity. For instance, how often does a wasp discover this small aperture and find its way in and out, feeding at the feeder intended for the bees? Never in my recol¬ lection have I found a wasp dead under the cover, but many a bee ; the latter do not appear to me equal to the difficult}’ of getting out again. To guard, then, against robbing here, I frequently cover my bottle and vulcanite with a bellglass, and so defeat the attack of the wasp. This method of feeding has, too, the merit of economy, it costs but little. The only trouble is the filling and placing. A little tin shovel is the easiest help ; but a piece of glass or zinc, or even paper, may be easily made to do duty for the shovel. The Hampshire bee-farm feeder is, as I have said, easily managed ; it is proof against robbers; you can feed as fast as you please, but I cannot see that you can feed slowly and continuously. The orders with it are to feed only at night; but is this a better plan than feeding slowly all the time ? The cover of this feeder is not made sufficiently loose. When pushed home it ought to be lifted easily without any shaking of the lower portion. This it does not do, and unless care is taken to hold down the lower portion, it is lifted up and the irritated bees escape: the inside rim, as it appears to me, should be made much smalle", so as not to stick. The inside of the tin -work becomes rusty in spots. Can this have any in¬ jurious effects on the bee ? for it is difficult to remove, and I have fancied that the bees do not care to take as much then. Its price, 3.?., must be a bar to cottagers using it. When it is once filled there is no way of stopping the supply without imprisoning num¬ bers of bees, saving letting the bees finish the amount that has been given. Lastly, we have Mr. Blow’s. The numbers on the wooden frame are. not marked sufficiently plain, and the spilling of syrup and moisture resulting from the same have soon obliterated the figures in those I have used. I expected great advantages in this feeder ; the bottle is large, the theory of working is capital, but when I turned off one to 0°, which means “no holes open,” it seemed to me to lessen, and on careful marking there was no mistaking that it did. Experiments with my other feeders on the same principle all proved a similar result, and I am forced to the conclusion that wherever the index may be the rate of feeding is always the same, dependent solely on the number of bees feeding. The explanation is thi3 : Any person placing a few drops of syrup on pierced vul¬ canite over a feeding hole may watch the bees sucking through the holes ; the.tongue of the insect is laid along flat on the vulcanite ; this is particularly the case when the supply is scanty. When the supply is shut off (as supposed) by placing the index at 0°, the tongue of the bee is inserted between the two surfaces of zinc, and the syrup is taken just the same. The rate of feeding may be more rapid with the index at twelve holes, but I doubt if it be any faster than with it at 0°. I think this result will be the same in whatever position the holes may be placed ; in fact, it is the flaw in the theory. Capillary attraction will keep the syrup always at the margin, and the bees “all along the line ” will do the rest. I hear Mr. blow has lessened the number of holes. I doubt the success of this alteration. If once the two plates have become moist with syrup the bees will do the rest, and I am not certain that it would not drop slowly of itself were the syrup thin. At present, then, my experience leads me to the conclusion that as the sheet of vulcanite and ordinary bottle forms the cheapest feeder, so for all purposes it is also the best. — Y. B. A. Z. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Sutton & Sons, Reading. — Farmers’ Year Booh and Graziers’ Manual ( Illustrated ). J. Carter & Co., High Holborn. — Catalogue of Farm Seeds (Illus¬ trated). *** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Books (II. S., and Others). — The price of Mr. Barron’s book “Vines and Vine Culture ” is 10s. ; post free, 10s. 6 d. Cineraria Blooms (C. F., Ipswich). — The flowers sent are fine, and the colour is particularly rich. It is a handsome variety, and well worth cultivation. Camellias ( F . T.) — Concise instructions on the cultivation of Camellias are given in our “ Greenhouse Manual,” which can be had by post in return for 10d. in stamps. We shall shortly publish an article which will contain informa¬ tion that may possibly be of service to you. The treatment requisite for Camellias, however, depends greatly on the condition of the plants, and if what you find docs not apply exactly to yours we shall be glad to give you further advice on our learning their condition. Pump Water for Plants ( Ilarhirne ). — You cannot do better than expose the water to the air in an open tank or waterpots for some hours before using, the longer the better. We have often seen plants watered with pump water in better condition than others to which pond water was applied, simply because greater judgment was exercised in the former case than the latter. Even if you fill your waterpots one day, standing them iu the house, and use the water the next, you will probably find it answer your purpose if you apply it judiciously. Well water varies considerably, some being quite suitable for plants if not applied in a very cold state. Quilled Cineraria (If. S., Ferry Hill). — You ask if the Cineraria is a novelty and worth saving. It is not particularly novel, but is certainly worth saving, for its beautiful bright shaded blue colour must render it effective for decorative purposes. The character of the flowers may not be exactly the same next year— the flowers may indeed be better on plants raised by offsets, and we advise you to preserve it with the object of testing its merits another season. Bulbs Failing ( F . J.). — If all the bulbs were of the same kind, in the same condition, and planted similarly, yet iu one bed they refuse to grow, although the soil is good and the subsoil satisfactory, we should be inclined to think they had been subjected to some interference, either by underground enemies or mischievous individuals. Have you examined the bulbs carefully ? This would be the natural thing to do, yet you do not mention it. With the data before us we can afford no solution of the mystery. Pelargonium Marechal MacMahon (Ignorant). — We are always quite willing to answer all inquiries if questions are framed in an intelligible manner, but yours is very incomplete. You ask, what is “ the colour of the flower of Mardchal MacMahon ? ” and without any further information we can only surmise that you refer to Pelargonium President MacMahon, one of the Zonal type, with white flowers, having a pink centre. There is, however, a golden bronze-leaved variety named Marechal MacMahon, which has large rich-coloured leaves. The name Pteris is pronounced teris. Temporary Vines (R. //. it.).— We quite understand your arrangement. You will obtain heavier crops of fruit, both this year and next, by planting the Vines ; and if, as we presume is the case, the roots of your permanent Vines have access to an outside border, there is no objection to your planting them : and even if the border is wholly inside it is not very likely that the permanent Vines would be injured by planting the others. In a case of chis kind, however, we should prefer to make the border in sections. A width of 3 or 4 feet along the front would be ample the first year, and further additions of 3 feet yearly would aflord the Vines abundant support. If you do not plant you cannot err by following Mr. Bardney’s practice of repotting them, provided you can give them the same skilled attention that he gives those under his charge. If you simply stand the pots on the border the probability’ is that you will only obtain one good crop of Grapes from tile Vines. March 8, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 205 Begonia Leaves Eaten (II. S). — We cannot of course say what has eaten your plants, but we think if they were under our charge we could find out the depredators. If you have satisfied yourself that the injury is not done by slugs you may well turn your attention to cockroaches. These pests are very fond of Begonias, and we have known plants injured similarly to those you have sent. \ arious methods are adopted for destroying cockroaches, phosphor paste being found one of the most effective at Kew. It is spread on pieces of bread and even paper, and placed in their haunts. We have been informed that Dalma¬ tian powder spread in houses or frames infested by cockroaches either kills or banishes them, but we have not tried it. Both these insecticides can be had from chemists. The fact of your Marguerites “ suddenly ” losing their green colour may perhaps be the result of an overstrong dose of liquid manure. The method you have adopted of making it is correct, but it should be used weak and clear— as bright as pale sherry and of the same colour. Fertilisers for Plants (Idem).— Nitrate of soda is a very active stimulant, more quick than durable, and must be used only in small quantities ; a small thimbleful spread on the soil in a 6-inch pot is ample, or from a quarter to half an ounce in a gallon of water. Bonemeal is less quick in its action but more continuous, and twice the quantity may be used as a top-dressing. It is not soluble in the same sense that the nitrate is. It is good for mixing in the soil for such plants as Pelargoniums, Chrysanthemums, Fuchsias, Begonias, and such others that require support over a long period. A pound, more or less according to the plants, may be mixed with a peck of soil. *• In the Garden ” (G. II.). — We are unable to congratulate you on your production, which in its present form is not suitable for publication in any paper, and we think you can occupy your time more profitably than in attempts at writing poetry. We have had several so-called poems sent to us from time to time, but this we think is the most unsatisfactory of all of them. It is weak in language and faulty in rhythm— in fact is not poetry at all, but a jingling con¬ glomeration of incongruities. Ten years hence you will thank us for this reply if you do not thank us now. Gardenias and Fern Fronds (L. I.K.). — We do not approve of covering Gardenias or any other cut flowers with dry cotton wool, as we know from the condition in which flowers so packed arrive at this office that wool extracts the moisture from the petals. If you cur the Gardenias as soon as expanded and place the stalks in tepid water, then if you wish to take or send the blooms to London secure a little damp moss round the stalks and pack in a close-fitting tin box, they will arrive perfectly fresh, and continue so longer than when dry wool is placed over them. In growing Adiantums for affording fronds for cut¬ ting, the plants should have a light sunny position. The fronds will not be so large nor of such a bright green as if grown in the shade, but they will last much longer when cut, selecting those that are mature, not the young soft fronds, and immersing them in water for an hour before using in bouquets. We are unable to say from whence Hyacinth and Orchid seeds can be obtained. You ought, however, to have no difficulty in raising the former, as the plants seed with great freedom, and it matures in a light greenhouse, frame, and as the season advances in the open air. Orchid seed is much more scarce, and much skill and patience are needed for raising plants when seed is obtained. Cypripedium spectabile (T. Mason). — You have not been misinformed as to the easy culture of this hardy Orchid, nor has its beauty been over-estimated, as it possesses merits which should make it a general favourite ; and when its perfect hardiness is taken into consideration with its present inexpensive¬ ness there is no reason why everyone should not possess one of the very best perennial Orchids. The plant is easily distinguished from all others. It grows from 1 to 2 feet high, the stems being more or less covered with leaves of a light green colour, and conspicuously veined. The flowers, which are borne singly, or from two to four on the stems, are very showy ; the sepals and petals are spreading, ovate in form, the petals being much the widest, pure white in colour ; the lip is very much inflated, of a rich rose colour, sometimes nearly crimson. The soil best suited for it is good peat and coarse sand, with some sphagnum chopped up fine and mixed with the peat. If grown in pots several should be placed in a large pot and kept plunged in moss or fibre in a shady place. When well grown it is a most beautiful plant for exhibition purposes, and it can be readily forced. It can be equally well grown if planted outside in peat and sand in a shady place or on the rockery, where it is quite at home with many of the Primulas, Dodecatheons, and Ferns. It forms a lovely companion for Ferns. The stems springing up from among the light green frouds of the Lady Fern are exceedingly attractive, and the plant thoroughly enjoys such a home. We have had it planted in old stumps, when it seemed to be peculiarly happy. Tlirips on Azaleas (A. S.). — The leaves you have sent indicate pretty clearly that your plants have been seriously infested with thrips, and there are either insects or eggs on the plants now, although we do not observe any on the few leaves before us. Thrips are not difficult to destroy, but one application of any insecticide is quite inadequate for keeping the plants clear. They require syringing periodically with a solution of nicotine soap, Gishurst compound, or soft soap and tobacco water. Any of those ingredients prepared at a strength of 3 ozs. to a gallon of water, in the case of soft soap adding a pint of tobacco liquor, will destroy thrips, and so will petroleum prepared and applied as stated on page 149. The plants should be dipped if not too large; if they cannot be dipped lay them on their sides on a mat, or hold them over a tub, for catching the solution, and syringe them forcibly, turning them round so that the under side of every leaf is thoroughly wetted. Do this once a fortnight, and in the meantime syringe them daily in fine weather until they flower, and again after¬ wards when making their growth, at which time the insecticides may be further diluted for using occasionally. Remove the surface soil from the pots, and add fresh compost. When we find plants in the condition that yours are we usually find also that they have in other respects been neglected or mismanaged in watering. Be very careful in this respect, never permitting the soil to be really dry before water is applied, then giving it copiously. If the pots are very much crowded with roots a teaspoonful of Standen’s manure or a little more of bonemeal spread on the surface of a 6-inch pot once a week and watered in will be beneficial. Tropaeolum Buds Withering (Idem). — As your plant is healthy the flowers will in all probability expand ns the weather improves if you assign it a light position in your greenhouse. Baking the compost will improve rather than injure it, and all worms will be destroyed. Vines Unsatisfactory— Abortive Bunches (J. A.). — Undoubtedly the practice you have described, if we understand it rightly, of steaming the house at night and charging the air with ammonia by the excessive use of guano in the evaporating troughs, is faulty. This with the fumes of petroleum, that appear to have been the result of an accident, would account for the flower buds turning brown “as if burnt,” but would not account for their non-forma¬ tion, and on one of the bunches you have sent no buds have formed. No guano whatever should be placed in the evaporating troughs of your vinery until the Vines are in vigorous growth, say after the berries are swelling freely after the stoning period. We know it has been used before Vines have reached that stage without any injury resulting, but, on the contrary, with apparent benefit ; but it was by gardeners who thoroughly understood what they were doing. In your case we repeat emphatically that it ought not be used before the period indicated, and you will do well to insist on its disuse at once. Even without the guano such an excess of moisture and an absence of ventilation is injurious, and, ex¬ cept in very bright weather, we would not have a drop of water in the troughs. So far as we comprehend the condition of your Vines it would have been better if there had been no troughs on the pipes. The finest of Grapes can be grown and are produced without them, and, as used by some persons, evaporating troughs do far more harm than good in vineries. To return to the abortive bunches. While, as we have said, they have been injured by the practice alluded to, the initial cause of the curled budless tendrils is immature wood, and this in turn is the result of too much moisture and too little ventilation. When wood is unripe there is no food, or very little, stored in the Vine for sustaining the growth in its early stages, and before supplies are furnished by active roots and prepared by developed foliage. The stored-up sap is thin aim watery, and its virtues are soon exhausted, the embryo buds then wither, and flimsy foliage only is produced, which in turn cannot perform its functions, though it en¬ deavours to do so by enlargement and extension, producing a large surface with little substance or texture. Thus persons are deceived as to the condition of their Vines. They point to their luxuriant growth and large leaves as indica¬ tions of health, whereas they really indicate disease, and such Vines are no more in condition for work — iruit-bearing, than animals are that are unnaturally fed, that are flabby, not firm, and comparatively immoveable. Your Vines need more air and less atmospheric moisture, and you will not err by leaving the top ventilators open to the extent of an inch all night, a temperature of from 55° to 60° being maintained, the floors, pipes, and every part of the house to be dry by twilight. As the heat increases in the morning so should the ventilation and moisture, until the maximum day temperature of 80° to 85° by sun is reached. Very little moisture should be afforded with a decline of temperature, and no syringing or damping should be done after the sun has left the house. Vines in Pots (W. II. — The pots must not be exposed to the full action of the sun, or in all probability they will be of little value for planting after bearing a crop this season. Mr. Bardney has had great success in shifting his fruiting Vines into pots 4 inches larger than those in which they arrived from the nursery. This repotting is done carefully, only removing a portion of the soil and not materially disturbing the roots, the time for the operation being when the canes have fairly commenced growth, yet the shoots not so far ad¬ vanced as to endanger their being broken off. The soil, both in the pots and that to be employed, is moist without being decidedly wet when the shifting is done. The latter, turfy loam and bonemeal, is pressed very firmly round the other, and water is applied cautiously for a time until root-action is active, which will be known by the foliage changing from a light to a deeper green. From that time the supply must be ample— that is to say, immediately the soil shows signs of crumbling when pressed water must be applied copiously. As the season advances, and the fruit swells freely, water must be given whenever it enters the soil freely. No signs of dryness of the soil must then be permitted, at the same time avoid saturation. If you cannot repot the Vines they will require still more water, with top-dressings of fresh loam and manuie, and also liquid manure occasionally after the Grapes have stoned. It will be well to cite what the cultivator named has written on this subject. Such results as he has recorded could not have been attained if the Vines had not been repotted. “ Many growers fruit Vines in the pots they were grown in ; but I have satisfied myself that this is not the best or most satisfactory system. However good and rich the soil may have been, the young Vine must have exhausted it by the end of the season. Rich top-dressings of soil and manure will certainly help them, with a free use of stimulants every time watering is done, but even this is not sufficient. When the fruit commences colouring liberal quantities of stimulants should be discontinued, or the fruit may possess but little flavour; but aid is actually discontinued under the above system at a time when the Vine requires liberal treatment, and the berries in consequence are comparatively small. I have failed at least to produce Grapes as good in berry and quality generally under the system described as I have by shifting the Vines into pots 4 inches larger than those they were grown in after they were well started into growth. The fresh soil given them will be ample to sustain them until the fruit is ripe, which will be of a superior quality. I have read in reference to Vines in pots, ‘ Fruit once, and that heavily.’ Now the question arises whether it is wise to do this or retain them for a longer period than one year. If cropped heavily they are useless after the first season. If cropped fairly and retained a second year they will produce better Grapes than in the first instance ; but to accom¬ plish this successfully they should be planted out in narrow borders of good soil. Experience proves to me that this is by far the most satisfactory system. Some Vines transferred from 10 to 14-inch pots early last year carried an excel¬ lent crop of well-finished serviceable fruit. The Vines had six bunches each, the produce of one Vine weighing a few ounces less than 10 lbs. These Vines made fine wood, and were this season planted out in a narrow border of loam, to which was added a little fresh lime and a few small bones. The laterals were about 1 foot in length when the Vines were planted, and extra care was taken that they did not suffer by the want of water. The produce was again weighed from the same Vine, which this year carried the same number of bunches, weighing in all 11 lbs. Other Vines carried a greater weight of Grapes this year than the one alluded to, while none had less than 8 lbs., the number of bunches throughout varying from five to seven, according to their size. The berries were larger than last year, and would have been finer still if we had thinned them more liberally ; but from the first swelling we concluded the berries would not be large, but were agreeably mistaken when the roots were fairly established in the new compost. The wood made this year is superior to that they produced last year, is well ripened, and the Vines will, I do not fear, produce some excellent early Grapes again next year.” Names of Plants (J. II.). — The Heath is Erica carnea, the Grass is a form of 1’oa pratensis, an extremely useful Grass for pastures. (G. Hillier). — We have many times stated that we do not undertake to name varieties of (lowers, but only distinct species. Varieties are far too numerous, and many of them too closely resembling each other, to enable anyone to name them with confidence without comparing them with the flowers in a large collection. We can only say that of the Camellia blooms you have sent, No. 1 resembles eximea ; 2, deli* catissima ; 3, imperfect, possibly alba plena ; 4, Beauty of Hornsey ; 5, Bealii ; 6, Valtavaredo. Removing Bees (TIL IlnisJian-).— Late in the afternoon will be the best time for transferring the bees and removing the hive. If you do this during JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 206 the present cold weather, the hive may be placed at once in the required position. COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— MARCH 7th. The bulk of the late Grapes now coming are very inferior, and prices are unusually low, good examples also being much below their value. Market quiet, with little arriving. FRUIT. 8. d. 8. d. s. d. 8. d Apples . 2 0 to 7 0 Grapes . ft. s 0 to 6 0 M • . . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Lemons . case 10 0 20 0 Apricots . 0 0 0 0 Melons . each 0 0 0 0 Cherries . 0 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 0 0 Chestnuts . . bushel 10 0 12 0 Oranges . 100 6 0 10 0 Currants, Black . J sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 ,, Red . . . j sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 1 0 2 0 Figs . . dozen 0 0 0 0 dessert . dozen 1 0 2 0 Filberts . ft. 0 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English ft.. 1 6 2 0 Cobs . 0 0 0 0 lb. 0 0 0 0 Gooseberries .. . 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .... oz. i 0 0 0 VEGETABLES. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d Artichokes . dozen 2 0 to 4 0 l ftt.nl 6 Asparagus, English bundle 12 0 0 0 Mushrooms i 0 1 6 Asparagus, French bundle 25 0 30 0 Mustard di Cress .. punnet 0 2 0 3 Beans, Kidney .. . 100 2 0 0 0 Onions . 2 3 2 6 Beet, Red . . dozen 1 0 2 0 Parsley . doz. bunches 3 0 4 0 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 i 6 Parsnips . . .. 1 0 2 0 Brussels Sprouts. . i sieve 1 6 2 0 Peas . 0 0 0 0 Cabbage . dozen 0 6 1 0 Potatoes . . . . 6 0 7 0 Capsicums . . 100 1 6 3 0 Kidney.... 6 0 8 0 Carrots . . bunch 0 4 0 0 Radishes.... doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Cauliflowers . . dozen f> 0 3 0 Rhubarb .... 0 4 0 0 Celery . bundle 1 6 2 0 Salsafy . 1 0 0 0 Coleworts _ doz bunches 2 0 4 0 Scorzo'nera 1 rt 0 0 Cucumbers . . each 0 9 1 s Seakale .... 1 0 2 0 Endive . . dozen 1 0 2 0 tb. 3 o o Fennel . bunch 0 3 0 0 Spinach .... 3 ft ft 0 Herbs . . bunch 2 0 0 lb. 1 6 2 o Leeks . . bum h 0 3 0 4 Turnips .... 0 2 0 3 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. THE POLLED BREEDS OF CATTLE. There are two distinct breeds under this name, one being by tradition and history described as belonging entirely to certain districts and counties in Scotland, the other having been located and peculiar to the counties of Suffolk and Norfolk in England. In order to show how distinct these races of animals may be con¬ sidered, it is no more than we may expect when we know the great difference in soil and climate which prevails in these dis¬ tricts and their actual position in the kingdom. To enable us, therefore, to treat the subject fairly and do equal justice in describing the qualities and peculiarities of each breed, we pro¬ pose to notice first the polled cattle of Scotland, which have an origin, rise, and progress distinct from the other breeds of cattle now known in Great Britain. These, however, may be described as two breeds — the Galloway, and the Aberdeen or Angus. We shall, however, give our principal attention to the latter as being the lineal descendants of the ancient polled cattle of the north¬ east of Scotland — the “ Doddies ” of Angus, and the “ Humlies ” of Buchan. In Youatt’s well-known work on “ Cattle, their Breeds and Management,” written in about 1835, we find the following state¬ ment : — “ There have always been some polled cattle in Angus ; the country people call them Himlies or dodded cattle. Their origin is so remote that no account of their introduction into this country can be obtained from the oldest farmers or breeders. The attention, however, of some enterprising agriculturists appears to have been first directed to them about 1770 or 1780.” This celebrated authority gives a full description of the Angus Doddies as he found them, and details at length the doings of the first great improver of the breed, the late Hugh Watson of Keillor. All the early writers on the agriculture of Aberdeenshire speak. [ March 8, 1883. of the Buchan cattle — those occupying the lower part of the county known as Buchan — as a distinct breed, but in no work dated before the present century have we found it stated whether they were polled or horned, but some writers give a description of the breed, yet make no mention of horns. It is stated by Keith in his “ Diocese of Aberdeen,” dated 1730, that the thanedom of Buchan, which originally extended from the river Don to the river Deveron, was so named because it abounded in old pasture and paid its rent in cattle, for the word in the Irish means “cow tribute.” In the recently issued “ History of the Highland and Agricultural Society,” Mr. Ramsay gives an extract from the com¬ munication he had received from Mr. George Stodart, “ lately farmer in Culter-Cullen, Foverham, now (January, 1879) in his ninety-seventh year, and who made his first purchase of cattle in 1801.” Mr. Stodart says — “ There were at that time both polled and horned cattle in Buchan, but the horned cattle were mostly in the highlands of Aberdeenshire.” The writer of some interesting notes on the early history of the polled breeds, which appeared in the Banffshire Journal in the spring of 1880, gives much evidence in reference to the exist¬ ence of the polled breed in Aberdeenshire. He says, “That the late Mr. Marr, Cairnbrogie Tawes, commenced to breed Buchan polled stock in 1810, and exhibited animals of this breed at the Highland ■ Society’s shows at Aberdeen in 1834, and Dundee in 1843. The improved polled Aberdeen and Angus cattle are the lineal descendants of that native breed. The two strongholds of the native polls were Angus in Forfarshire and Buchan in Aberdeenshire, the fact being that they are the descendants of one well-defined race — the ancient polled cattle of the north-east of Scotland. In this part of Scotland the lion’s share of the farm work now accomplished by horses was done by oxen down to a comparatively recent date — in many parts far into the present century. The native breeds were, however, found to be too small for working-oxen ; animals were obtained from the south of Scotland, the Lothians, and from Fifeshire. From this time a cross-breed was sought and obtained for working purposes through the union of the large handsome Fife bulls and the thick low-set native cows, which produced a class of cattle combining the size and power of the former with the excellent beef-producing properties of the latter. They were, however, designated the black horned cattle of Aberdeenshire, and well suited for farm work. The great improvement of the black polled cattle must be dated from 1808. In that year Mr. Hugh Watson, tenant of the farm of Keillor, Meigle, Forfarshire, laid the foundation of what in his skilful hands became a widely celebrated herd of pure-bred polled cattle. Hugh Watson was a man of much intellect, great perseverance, and correct judgment ; and in various ways present¬ ing a striking resemblance to his great prototypes in the Short¬ horn world, the brothers Codings, who had commenced the systematic improvement of their favourite breed just twenty- eight years (in 1780) before the famous Keillor polled herd was founded. It may be therefore remarked with truth, that what the Codings were to the Shortherns, Hugh Watson was to the polled Aberdeen and Angus breed. He wTas the first great im¬ prover of the breed, and no one has ever grudged him the credit of that honourable distinction. In the year 1808 Hugh Watson succeeded his father in the farm of Keillor, and among the stock left him were six cows and a bud of the native polled breed. Not satisfied with these as a foundation for the herd he had decided to build up, he in the same year went to a fair at Trinity Muir, near Brechin, and there he purchased ten of the best polled heifers and the best polled bud he could find. It is stated that with these sixteen females and two buds he founded the celebrated herd of Keillor Doddies. Of the great success which Hugh Watson achieved as a breeder March 8, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. of polled cattle we have, perhaps, in the words of the late Mr. William McCombie of Tillyfour, the best testimony; he says, “ We all look upon him (Hugh Watson) as the first great improver, and no one will question his title to that distinction, for there is not a herd in the country which is not indebted to Keillor blood.” Mr. Dixon in “ Field and Fern,” says Hugh Watson kept in his eye as models “‘Bracelet’ and ‘Charity,’ and one or two more of the pure Booths ; ” and that “ he never scrupled to say that his best cattle showed much of the Shorthorn superiority in hair and touch.” His motto would seem to have been, “ Put the best to the best, regardless of affinity or blood.” He bred from none but the choicest specimens at his command, and did not hesitate to follow the example of Collings, the Booths, T. Bates, and other celebrated Shorthorn breeders in mating animals closely related to each other. It is evident that he prac¬ tised in-and-in breeding to a considerable extent. It is also clear that he aimed at building up particular lines or families, and that to some extent he bred each of these families within itself. Pro¬ bably the truest description that could be given of his method of breeding is, that he bred from none but the best — those that came nearest to his ideal — and that he did not care whether these were closely related or not. He, no doubt, discovered that under his improved system of breeding, which may truly be called a system of “ selection,” and under it he could raise better animals than could at that time be found anywhere else. Now we have quoted largely from the essay by Mr. James Macdonald on the origin and early history of the polled Aberdeen and Angus cattle, as pub¬ lished in the Journal of the Boyal Agricultural Society of England in 1881. Although with our long experience in attending the Cattle Shows of the Royal Society, as well as the Fat Cattle Shows of the Smithfield Club when it was held in Baker Street many years ago, and reported the results of various contests amongst the breeders and feeders of the best Scotch polled cattle, and although having acted upon our opinions and estimates, formed as the result of our observations in our own farming practice, yet we could find no more useful style of laying before the home farmer the practice of the best breeders than the source frum which we have quoted. We always prefer to quote the best authorities, believing them to be the best guides in connection with our own experience, as the best and safest guide to the home farmer, and also for the benefit of young men studying agriculture, for whom we write, but at all times endeavour to give history credit when it is deserved. (To be continued.) WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — We finished sowing White Suffolk Wheat the last day of February. This is too late generally, but the land worked close and heavy, which is much in favour of an average plant and produce with late-sown Wheat if the summer is propitious. If the land had been light and free-working, like Barley tilth, we would not have sown Wheat after the 1st of February, for when the soil is light and dry on the surface the Wheat-seeding is never favourable. When, however, it is heavy working, like the usual condition in the month of November, it generally answers. The disadvantage con¬ nected with a dry and free-working condition is that the land is not close enough for the roots to hold on well ; besides which, it is sure to be more damaged by weeds during the summer, unless it is drilled at 10 or 12 inches apart, so that the horse hoe can be freely used to destroy them ; in fact, in a fallow preparation for Wheat the crop is never safe unless the corn is drilled, leaving room for the horse hoe. All sorts of seeds — such as Cabbage, Broccoli, Kohl Rabi, &c., for planting in summer, should now be drilled at 15 inches apart in the lines, on well-prepared and manured beds. The hoeing may then be done, also the pulling of plants, without injury to the remainder. We like to obtain the best and truest seed possible, instead of pur¬ chasing plants, for we never can be sure of the sort and purity when they are grown on purpose for sale ; besides which, it is a good plan to grow the plants on a well-prepared plot or headland in the field whereon they are intended to be grown. Drege is now more sown than ever, and it is a good plan to sow 2| bushels of White Waterloo Oats and 1 bushel of Barley, because they can be separated, leaving first-class malting Barley and fair quality of Oats. Barley is now seldom grown alone after roots fed off by sheep, it being almost impossible to secure a good malting sample. The Beans and Peas have nearly all been sown. The Early Dun or white boilers are best for early crops, and are much in request now, because Early Stone Turnips or Mustard may be grown after early Peas are carted. Spring or summer Tares are now being sown. Some farmers recommend mixing the seed half winter and half summer varieties, as they are more proofy for sheep-feeding ; but where a heavy crop is expected, a little Rye or winter Barley is mixed with the Vetches to hold them off ground, which is beneficial either for cutting for horses or cattle or for feeding by sheep on the land. We are now preparing land after Potatoes for the White Victoria Oats. As soon as the land has been scarified and the little couch picked off, the land will be ridge-ploughed and sown with these earliest variety of Oats, the object being an early harvest and full crop. We grew nineteen sacks of this sort last year per acre. It is also favourable for the growth of early Turnips sown between the stooks as fast as the Oats are cut. In some cases, however, we shall seed with red Clover, for we have found that in favourable seasons we can obtain a good autumn crop for cutting up and soiling horses and cattle if the Oats are cut above the Clover. Still it is very rarely the case, as the Oats become ripe before the young Clover seeds get strong. Planting Potatoes should now be prepared for, having the manure in store ready for mixing, 4 cwt. of Peruvian guano mixed with 4 cwt. of kainit in our experience we find sufficient to insure a full crop and equal in manuring power to any amount usually applied of town or stable dung. The artificial manures are very inexpensive in their appli¬ cation, for our custom is to strew the manure along the furrows in which the Potato sets are planted. Much of the Wheat land being in such a wet state in the autumn that the yard manure, &c., could not be applied, it must therefore now get a liberal allowance of arti¬ ficials as a top-dressing about the second week of April, of 1^ cwt. of nitrate of soda, 2 cwt. of bone superphosphate, and 2 cwt. of Peru¬ vian guano per acre. This will cost from 60s. to 63s. per acre if genuine, and will be sufficient if the land is clean and in fair con¬ dition either after lea or fallow. We have advocated enough dressing for cereals to produce a full crop of straw, which answers well, because the straw alone will more than pay for the manure in most situations. Hand Labour. — Men will now be required in preparing, mixing, and sowing hand manures ; also preparing and cutting the Potato sets, hedge-cutting and tying, also making dead hedges with clean rod3 and bushes, also cutting and clearing all the hedgerows where cut for hurdle wood, Ac., has been going on, also turning and preparing the yard and stable dung intended for the Mangold ground. Live Stock.— Sheep are now beginning to thrive better, for the weather has been sadly against them where feeding off roots in the open field during the past winter. Good Down mutton is still worth Is. per pound, and is likely to continue at high prices, the stock is so short in numbers. Beef has paid better than usual for feeding during the past winter, and is now worth from 6s. per stone of 8 tbs. ; still the stock if not bred on the farm was bought in at a high price. The lambing time has proved about an average produce of lambs, but rather more than usual have died whilst young. Taking the lambing season as a whole, for the Down and cross-bred flocks it has been better than was anticipated, because of the rainy winter. The lambing of the long-woolled sheep is now going on, but it is too early to say what the result will be ; but we hear that many ewes after lambing look extremely thin, and it is expected that some of the flocks in the midland and western counties are suffering from flukes in the liver. If such is the case they will show it more further on in the spring, and large numbers must be lost. We find a great controversy going on as to treatment of sheep when they have flukes in the liver, and we believe that there is no cure ; but there is a preventive by judicious management, to which we have often alluded in these columns. GOAT FARMING. I have been much interested in the articles you recently pub¬ lished under this head. My object in addressing you is to offer a few words about the Angora cross, and to correct — if I may be pardoned for so doing — a slight mistake. On page 84 it is stated that “ those Goats should be selected having the longest hair, as in crossing these nick better with the Angora ram for the growth of mohair.” Now a similar idea once prevailed in my own mind ; but Mr. Evans, the breeder of mohairs at the Cape already referred to in your columns, informed me that the contrary was the practice there, and for this reason — by crossing with short-haired Goats the wool in the coats of the progeny preponderated over the hair, which was not the case when long-haired she goats were used ; thus the shortest-coated animals were selected. Crossing is now, however, very little practised at the Cape, as the pure specimens are much more common. The Duke of Wellington possesses at Stratfieldsaye herds of both the indigenous Cape Goats and the Cape Angoras, but keeps the two varieties quite apart and distinct, preferring not to cross them. With the clip of these Angoras, and some I sent him from an imported ram I had a year or so ago, His Grace had a quantity of material made, several yards of which he gave me. (A sample enclosed). Whilst staying at Stratfieldsaye House last year I had an opportunity of inspecting these herds, both of which were doing well and adapting themselves to the climate, but particularly the Angoras. I believe they are still thriving and increasing in number, so that there is no reason why, after all, these Goats should not be bred in England for their fleece, and, if necessary, crossed with British varieties, as suggested in your Journal, to combine fleece and milk. For this purpose no better selection could be made than “ Brown Kate,” mentioned by the writer of the articles. I am happy to add that some attention is now being paid to JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 208 [ March 8, 1883. this subject at Bradford, where a prize for the best mohair or cross-bred mohair Goat is to be offered at the next agricultural show there by a leading manufacturer. — H. S. Holmes Pegler, Ifcmcl- TIcm p stead, Herts. [The sample referred to is silky in appearance, strong in texture, and appears to us a dress material of considerable importance. We have received also the second edition of Mr. Pegler’s manual on Goat farming, which should be read by all who are interested in the animals on which it treats.] Permanent Pastures. — We have received a copy of the thirteenth edition of Mr. Martin H. Sutton’s work on “ Permanent Pastures,” which was originally published in the Royal Agricultural Society’s Journal, and has been enlarged to render it still more useful. That so many editions should have been called for is sufficient indication of the merits of this little work, which we have referred at greater length on previous occasions. Sunflower Culture. — The importance of cultivating the Sun¬ flower as a valuable adjunct to other crops on a farm has been recently mentioned by the press. I am quite willing to make the experiment ; but before doing so I should be glad if any of your cor¬ respondents would give their experience of the way in which the seeds, flower, and stem are utilised, and also how and when the seed should be sown, and the nature of the soil that suits it best. — C. A. Hanbury. THE DORKING CHALLENGE CUP. “C.” writes hopefully in the Journal of Horticulture (page 105) about the Dorkings. I am glad he feels so ; would that I did. He notes that there is a falling- off in the Dorking entries. This I take it arises from several causes. One is the craze for size, by which the big mongrel, coarse as he is, wins over the finer-quality bird. Another reason is, that the colour that those who act as judges prefer is ftiuch disliked by many, and, therefore, those who do not care to keep the almost black varieties do not exhibit; but the worst of all is, and there is no denying the fact, that dark-legged birds are given the prizes often and often. With unfeigned disgust I have seen this to be the case. There being such a fast-and-loose way of judging people will not send, and if they wish for prizes, as some do, they will scarcely care to keep the breed at all. I have heard such expressions used more than once. Then, again, those who buy prizewinners very frequently find their stock much injured by getting sooty-legged birds. Again I say, as I have said before, “There is no hope for the Dorkings judged as they now arc.” There are plenty of true, good fanciers who would work the breed up no doubt, but it is not worth their while when the prizes are taken by dark-legged mongrels. I have bred many pure white¬ legged birds with white toe-nails, and very good table fowls they were. I had one to-day, good in breast, white in flesh ; but he would have been “ nowhere ” under the present way of judging. There are no doubt places where the old breed is still in existence, and since I last wrote I heard of one, the lady telling me the same breed had been kept on the farm as long as she could re¬ member. 1 intend going to see them. “ C.” says they were more delicate. In this he is in error. I have kept them, and know they were not more delicate than the present so-called Dorking. Also the lady in question told me that she had just been looking at a fine brood of chickens numbering thirteen, and, to use her own words, she said, “It was a pretty sight; they were all so bright and strong.” It is not what the judges know about the Dorking ; it is how they judge them. They do not judge them to the Standard of Excellence, and, therefore, the Dork¬ ing fancy is on the decline, and must be so. No one who happens to have the true breed would, I should think, be foolish enough to buy prize birds at shows now-a-days. 1 did once, but I do not think I shall ever again. I may; but I must be in a far different frame of mind as regards the exhibition Dorking than I am at present. There is but one chance, to my thinking, for the Dorking, and that is to judge them by the old “ Standard of Excellence.” Let there be coloured Dorkings, not only Dark Dorkings, and do not let so much as a dark toe-nail be on a prize bird, and let quality be taken into consideration before mere size, and I venture to say that soon there will be more entries and much finer table fowls when the Dorking fancier knows he can rely on the judges, which most decidedly he cannot now. When such is the case I for one will be most happy to put down my guinea towards a challenge cup for the Dorkings. I heartily thank “ C.” for the courteous reply to my notes, and feel grateful to him for keeping the matter before the poultry world. At the same time I also thank those who have written privately to me on the subject, and I wish to inform them that I shall still do my utmost to put the Dorking breed on its right footing. — Harrison Weir, Hrenchley, Kent. TABLE POULTRY. Hints on Fattening and Cooliing Fowls. By Henwife. James Bolton, 39 and 40, St. George’s Place, Knightsbridge. We have received a copy of a very interesting little work by “ Henwife ” on the subject of table poultry. The authoress states in the introduction that she pretends to offer neither a poultry book nor a cookery book, but merely a few practical remarks on those portions of both subjects which are most interesting to herself. “ Henwife ” is well known as a writer upon subjects con¬ nected with practical poultry keeping, and she has devoted special attention to the matter of table poultry. The following is an abbreviated account of her method of fattening, as described by herself. For further particulars we must refer our readers to the pamphlet itself. Should they desire to fatten birds for their own use in really first-rate style they cannot do better than implicitly carry out “ Henwife’s ” instructions. A separate chamber is devoted to the birds for fattening, so that they may not see other birds at liberty. Each bird has a separate coop, 24£ inches by 16J inches, with a barred front and a projecting le'ige to hold the food troughs. Disinfectants are freely used and cleanliness strictly observed, and when first put up the birds are fasted for a whole day. Those unaccustomed to soft food are broken into the regime by being first given boiled grain. The windows of the fattening house are furnished with curtains, which are drawn closely between each meal, so that the birds spend the intervals not devoted to eating in sleep. They are fed three times a day, no water is given, and the food is as much varied as possible. The duration of fattening for a bird weighing when put in 5 lbs. should be from one and a half to two and a half months, for larger fowl from three and a half to four and a half month-. Large birds should if put in at i\ lbs. weigh 9^ lbs. to 10 lb?, at the end of their time. The troughs should be soaked in clean water all night to keep them free from sourness. The pamphlet also contains some interesting notes upon the Paris Exhibition of 1882, with some useful recipes for the cooking of poultry in various ways. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40" N. ; Long. 0° 8' 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. DATE. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. .2 ’3 C3 1883 February. March. Barome¬ ter at 329 and Sea Level Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. | Temp, of Soil at 1 foot. Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Inches. deg. deg. deg. deg deg. deg deg. III. Sun. 2.5 30.702 45.0 43.2 N.W. 41.4 50.8 37.4 57.8 37.0 Mon. 26 30.665 38.4 38.4 IV. 42.6 47.2 37.3 61.8 38 4 . _ Tues. 27 3<>.5<'8 40.3 39.1 N.W. 42 2 49 3 36.8 78.8 33.2 _ Wed. 28 30.513 48.1 47.2 N.N.W. 42.6 57.3 39.8 100 8 39.2 0.130 Thurs. 1 30.447 47.0 45.1 N. 43.5 52.4 .41.3 72.2 40.3 Friday 2 30.657 39.7 37.5 E.N.E. 43.5 469 39.1 80.9 39.2 _ Satur. 3 30.70(3 38.2 36.9 E.N.E. 42.5 48.7 32.0 82.7 27.4 — 30.600 42.4 41.1 42 6 50.4 38.1 76.4 36.4 0.130 REMARKS. 25th. — Fair calm day. 28th. — Damp misty morning ; fine day. 27th. — Cloudy morning ; bright pleasant afternoon. 28th. — Dull morning ; bright mild afternoon. 1st. — Dull day, occasional indications of rain ; few gleams of sunshine in morning. 2nd. — Overcast morning ; cleared about 11 A.M. ; fine afternoon and evening. 3rd. — Fine and bright, with cold N.E. wind. A very fine week, temperature still above the average, and barometer extremely high.— G. J. SYMONS. March 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 209 iiiKiii® 15 th 16 th 3 7th 18th 19th 20th 21st Tn P S SUN M Tu W Exhibition of Horticultural Appliances, Agricultural Hall, [Islington. Palm Sunday. Liverpool Spring Show (two days). CAMELLIAS. Loses are amougst deciduous slirubs Camellias are amongst evergreens — the most handsome and admired of all. They are no doubt less gorgeous than Rhodo¬ dendrons, but with these they cannot properly be compared, as the latter are essentially grown in the open air for summer decoration, while Camellias are in most dis¬ tricts exclusively flowered under glass in winter and spring. In some favoured localities they thrive in the open air, and are doubtless as hardy as common Laurels. They are too valuable, however, to be subjected to such risks as commoner shrubs, therefore for all practical purposes Camellias are greenhouse and conservatory plants, and undeniably of the first order of merit. They are, in fact, indis¬ pensable wherever high-class decorative plants are grown. They are adapted, too, for glass structures of all sizes, attaining on the one hand the character of trees, yet retaining their youthful vigour ; while, on the other, they flower in quite a small state as freely as do the older and larger specimens. They are alike suited, therefore, for furnishing the grandest of conser¬ vatories and the most unpretentious of amateurs’ green¬ houses. The plants are withal of easy culture ; but before alluding to this more particularly a few con¬ densed botanical and historical notes on this flue genus will not be unacceptable. The species of Camellia in cultivation are few, not exceeding eight, and some of these are comparatively unimportant and very rare, being grown more as curi¬ osities than for any other reason. All are natives of China and Japan, but it is only the varieties of one species that form such beautiful ornaments of our con¬ servatories and greenhouses. As regards the position of the Camellia in the vegetable kingdom, it may be stated for the information of our younger readers that it is included in the family Ternstroemiaceae, which contains amongst other genera Tliea, Caraipa, Coclilo- spermum, and Eurya, but the nearest relative to the genus under special consideration is the first named, Tliea, to which, indeed, several of the species of Camellia are referred by some authors. Taking the Camellias in the order of their introduc¬ tion, the first demanding attention is C. japonica, which has given rise to the very numerous varieties now grown in gardens. This was known to several of the old botanists, and was described by Linnaeus, Ivaempfer, and Thunberg in the eighteenth century. The form that first appeared in this country was the “ Common Single Red variety,” which was obtained byLordPetre in 1739, other forms being introduced at intervals until at the commencement of the present century there wTere about a dozen in cultivation — a striking contrast with the two or three hundred which are now enumerated in catalogues. Three of the earlier varieties — the double white, double red, and double striped — are supposed to have been introduced by Mr. Main, wdio was sent out to China as a collector by Mr. Slater of Leyton in 1792. There is, however, some uncertainty as to the number introduced, for Mr. Slater died previous to Mr. Main’s return, and the collection had been dispersed. Some cases had, however, been sent to Kew and private gardens, and it may be safely asserted that these were amongst the first of the double forms that reached England. In the second edition of Aiton’s “ Hortus Kewensis,” published in 1810-13 eleven varieties are enumerated, comprising the single, semi-double, and double Red, Middlemist’s Red, the Myrtle-leaved Red, Anemone-flowrered, Poeony-flowered, Double Striped, Blush, Buff, and Double White, most of which are figured either in Curtis’s “Botanical Magazine” or Andrews’ “Repository.” To these a twelfth, the Pompon Camellia, is added in Edwards’s “ Botanical Register” for 1815. It was then a novelty, and though its white double flowers tinged with crimson at the base of the petals are pretty, they cannot be compared with the symmetrical and delicately tinted varieties we have now in such abundance. The number of forms was gradually increased, and in Don’s “ History of Diclilamydeous Plants ” (1830) twenty-four varieties are described as having been in¬ troduced from China, and fourteen as seedlings raised in Britain. From that time there has been a con¬ tinual steady advance, the continental growers — -par¬ ticularly in France and Italy — having given much attention to the raising of new varieties, until the total has become almost formidable, and the amateur culti¬ vator who desires only a few select forms is at a loss what to choose wdiere so many are good. Compara¬ tively few additions are, however, now made ; and, in fact, there is little room for them, unless they take a step in the direction of the much-coveted “ blue Ca¬ mellia,” which, like the blue Dahlia and blue Rose, has yet to be obtained. Turning to the other species, the next in chrono¬ logical order is C. Sasanqua, which, by the wray, is considered by many writers as belonging to the genus Tliea. This is described in Thunberg’s “Flora Ja¬ ponica ” (1784), and an illustration is given which fairly represents its characters ; and in the “Botanical Register for 1818 is also a very good figure. It wras introduced in 1811 from China through the East India Company, and first flowered in Sir Joseph Banks’ conservatory at Springrove. The flowers are small, 1 or 1J inch in diameter, with irregular pure white petals and small lance-shaped or ovate bright green leaves. In Sir George Staunton’s description of Lord Macartney’s embassy to China the following in¬ teresting particulars are given of this plant : — “ A plant very like the Tea flourished on the sides and tops of the mountains, where the soil consisted of little more than the fragments of stone crumbled into a sort of coarse earth by the joint action of the sun and rain. The Chinese call this plant Cha-wdiaw, or Flower of Tea, on account of the resemblance of one to the other, and because its petals, as well as the entire flowers, of Arabian Jessamine are sometimes mixed amongst the No. 142.— Vol. VI., Third Series. No 1793— Vol. LXIX., Old Series. 210 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 15, 1883. Teas in order to increase tlieir fragrance. This plant yields a nut from which is expressed an esculent oil equal to the best which comes from Florence. It is cultivated on this account in vast abundance and in situ¬ ations fit for little else.” The double-flowered variety of C. Sasanqua was imported for the Royal Horticul¬ tural Society by Captain Drummond in 1823, and first flowered three years after. It is even prettier than the single form, the flowers being neatly semi-double, with, rounded substantial white petals. Passing several other species of little importance, C. reticulata is the next worthy of notice. This hand¬ some Camellia was introduced by the London Horti¬ cultural Society through Mr. J. Parks in 1824, but the first flowers were produced by plants in the conser¬ vatory of Mr. J. C. Palmer at Bromley. It is of similar habit to C. japonica, but is distinct from it in the more lanceolate and tapering neatly serrated dark green leaves and the large crimson flowers, the irregular petals of which are veined with a darker shade. A large specimen of this fine species is particularly hand¬ some, and such a one as that formerly at Bank Grove, Kingston, is seldom seen Mr. Donald describes this in the Cottage Gardener for 1853 as “ the Lion of Surrey,” and states that “it was purchased by Sir John Brough¬ ton about the year 1835 from Mr. Smith, the celebrated Rhododendron crosser of Norbiton, along with fimbriata and Woodsii. He had them planted in a house by themselves, this house being the middle one of the range; the width in the centre is 22 feet, and the length along the wall 20 feet. The Lion of Surrey now occu¬ pies the whole of this space, so that we cannot pass along the circular paved walk in front without being partially shaded by the upper branches.” Pie further states that the plant was 24 yards in circumference, and had nine hundred flowers open at one time, about three thousand having expanded during the season. Referring to the culture of Camellias, it is scarcely necessary to enter into details of propagation, as ninety- nine out of every hundred private growers purchase plants. We have both raised stocks from cuttings and attached to them, by grafting, the best varieties ; but it is, as a rule, far better to let nurserymen who have special conveniences for the work establish the plants, especially as they can do this without any great outlay, and healthy examples of good varieties are consequently the reverse of costly. Briefly it may be said, for the information of those who desire a little knowledge on the subject, that cuttings of matured growths with a heel of the previous year’s wood emit roots the most freely. They are inserted as closely together as pos¬ sible in well-drained pots of sandy soil in September, placed on ashes in a cool pit or frost-proof frame, shaded as needed and kept moist. There they remain until the spring, and there they may remain until rooted, though they are often placed in a little heat after growth commences. Eventually they are potted singly, and when established and growing freely they are partially cut down. Scions are attached to them by taking a slice off the bark of both stock and scion, fitting the two together, securing them with matting, and covering with moss or grafting wax, and keeping them in a close propagating case until the union is complete. The growth of the stock is then gradually reduced and shortly removed down to the scion, which now and onwards appropriates the whole of the sup¬ plies of the roots. This is propagation in a nutshell ; but, as before observed, it is better to purchase esta¬ blished plants. Are home-raised or imported plants the most desir¬ able to purchase? is a question often asked. The truth must be told on this matter. Healthy free-growing plants raised in English nurseries are far more likely to succeed in the hands of the majority of amateur cul¬ tivators than imported plants are. The latter plants are often luxuriant, yet almost as often deteriorate when placed in English greenhouses. The change of treatment and locality is too sudden and great for them. After these plants have been prepared for a year in our nurseries, acclimatised, they do very well afterwards ; but cheap imported Camellias are often dear in the end. In purchasing Camellias, then, the safe course is to obtain established plants from home nurseries, giving preference to those raised there, pro¬ vided — and this is important — they are free and kind, a stunted home-raised plant being decidedly inferior to a free yet sturdy acclimatised foreigner. It has been said that Camellias are easy to grow, and they certainly are when the plants are healthy to begin with ; but stunted, scraggy, half-starved plants with brown-blotched leaves, dry and harsh, are not easy to manage, and cannot quickly be restored to health and vigour. Many of such plants can be im¬ proved without doubt, and even some be transformed into handsome specimens; but time and skill are requi¬ site for effecting this desideratum. But what is the reason of so many Camellias being in the unsatisfactory state indicated ? The initial cause in not a few cases is commencing with immature strong -looking but really weak, because plethoric, plants, and then treating them wrongly. They have had generous treatment, specially prepared soil, pots packed with roots, so as to endure any amount of water, liquid manure periodically, and a very moist position, either in pits or shaded places in the open air, and too often have been so drenched and saturated in the autumn as to cause incipient decay of the roots. Place such plants on an open stage in a dry and draughty greenhouse, and note the results. The very life of the plants evaporates through their great broad leaves ; pale brown blotches appear, which spread, the edges of the leaves curl back, and eventually the foliage withers and falls, and as there is no stamina in the plants they cannot put forth fresh strong growths. This is the treatment accorded to the majority of such plants by amateurs, and it is wrong. If they repot the plants as soon as they arrive, as many do, this makes matters no better, but rather worse ; for they disturb the roots and have no compensating advantage, for the roots will not move under those conditions. Such soft pampered plants, which have been treated almost as semi-aquatics, must not at first be placed on lattice- work stages in dry houses, but have a sojourn on moist ashes in a pit or frame, and be very gradually inured to the differing conditions under which they are in¬ tended to be grown. It is not suggested that all foreign Camellias arrive in a half-succulent state, but vast numbers are in the condition described, and it is wTell to know what to do and what to avoid under the circumstances. Now to another class of plants — those that were healthy once but are now unsightly. What is the cause of the change ? Overpotting, with over-watering immediately afterwards, have together formed the first March 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 211 step on the road to ruin of hundreds of plants. Ca¬ mellias are water-loving plants undoubtedly — their white, fleshy, Hyacintli-like roots tell us this, but stag¬ nancy they abhor. Even a Hyacinth will not grow in mortar, and a Camellia’s roots are far more sensitive. If there is a suspicion of saturation or sourness they are poisoned, turn brown at once, lose their absorbent power, and the plant starves surrounded with plenty. In potting a Camellia let the pot be as small as pos¬ sible — only just large enough to admit the roots, with the necessary space for pressing down the soil. This is the safe course to pursue. Let the soil be moist when used, but not decidedly wet, that already surrounding the roots to be in exactly the same condition. Press the new soil as firmly as the old, and do not bury the stem too deeply. Syringe the plant and pot three or four times a day if needed, shade it, do everything to retard the first watering, yet do not permit the soil to be dry. The object should be to induce the roots to move before water is applied. This secured, the rest will be easy. Apply water judiciously, yet increasingly, as the growth and season advance, and when the pot is filled with roots and the drainage ample, as it must be, the supplies can scarcely be too copious. The soil, then, must always be moist— not sometimes only, but constantly, even if water has to be given twice or thrice a day ; and if something more is needed top-dress with soot and bonemeal alternately for sustaining or enrich¬ ing the colour of the foliage. This is better than con¬ stant shiftings from pot to pot. There is no fear of saturation in the growing season if the pot is crowded with roots and the drainage thoroughly efficient, but it never will be full of roots if the plant is first overpotted and the new soil is rendered stagnant at once. This is the real root of the matter, and should not be overlooked. The importance of a moist atmosphere for Camellias making their growth is not sufficiently recognised. In the great Camellia house in Messrs. W. Paul & Sons’ nursery at Waltham Cross, the gravel over which the plants are arranged is often almost in a state of puddle, and there is not a dry stage in the house. Under these conditions they luxuriate, and by subsequently ripening the wood they flower profusely. This is a school of Camellias, and its teachings as to varieties useful to all who may visit it before the season is over. Notes on varieties and other matters pertaining to Camellia culture must be deferred. BOOKS AND READING. Hardly any. other profession, perhaps none, has such a number of periodicals devoted to its interests, and few, if any, can show such a number of books as have been written to further its progress, as horticulture. This being so, readers may wonder what literary wants there can be ; indeed it seems as if the literature of gardening had been, in some directions at least, overdone. In some instances this is really the case, and we want a weeding-out of books on some subjects. It is time that everyone was impressed with the fact that the day of encyclopaedias is gone. It is impossible to teach anything more than the merest outlines of gardening between the boards of one book. Half a century ago it might be done, but the subjects are now so very varied, and gardening has assumed so many phases, that it is now impossible. Nor is it desirable, even if it were possible, for the young possessor of such is too often deceived into believing he has under one title all he need know of gardening as far as books can teach. If in practice he really finds it so he will either remain far down th9 gardening scale, or he will be such a genius as gardening has not yet produced, and is every day less likely to do. It is far better to forma library of “one subject” books, for these exhaust the subjects they treat on. Moreover, when only one book on one subject is had at a time that subject is likely to be thoroughly studied ; but when books giving only the outlines on many subjects are purchased nothing is studied or everything is devoured, and the result is disappointing. Then, suppose a special subject requires special study. Suppose the young man is suddenly required to supply Mushrooms or Tomatoes or Strawberries at seasons that he has hitherto not been accustomed to supply them He turns to his one-and-a-half or two-guinea volume and finds it fails him ; he already knew as much or more than he finds there. Then he finds that it is better to spend Is. or so on manuals detailing the routine of men exactly in his position. He finds he can learn more of the Vine in Barron’s, Taylor’s, Thomson’s, or any other good manual ; of Orchids in Williams' manual ; of hybridising and propagating in Burbidge's “Cultivated Plants ; ” of fruit in Hogg’s manual, and so on. And then he only buys what he wants, and, above all, studies, as we have said, only one subject at a time. If we cannot advise young men to possess themselves of encyclopaedias, because we think they can do better, still less can be said in favour of epitomes. For those who are content to “know a little of everything” they may do, but for the would-be successful gardener they are worse than useless — they deceive. He must know “ everything of something,” and that something is gardening, and this he will never learn from epitomes. There is another class of books that we dislike. They are what may be called catalogue-books — a few pages of general encyclopaedia-like instructions are given, and the bulk of the volume is merely a tradesman’s catalogue amplified ; indeed in some respects it is inferior to such, for every year makes it less complete. A real catalogue is acceptable, but a catalogue in disguise commends itself to few. While epitomising is condemned the value of condensation is not ignored. Much information is buried among “padding ;” many books are quite needlessly bulky. They may be like undressed heaps of grain — there may be nothing but grain — but much of it is light and might have been separated from the heavy with advantage — nay, much is positive chaff. This is partly owing to the fact that the most valuable gardening works are by men who are gardeners first and literary men afterwards. But some gardeners are gifted with much literary ability, and deliberately put in the chatty chaff to swell the volume to a little more than pamphlet size. When this is in the catalogue form it is not only useless but unutterably dull, for this is the resort of the literary nobody. Even when it is interesting chat it is still useless, and wmrse for those with small incomes, for it is expensive, having to be paid for. While, then, epitomising is condemned, condensation is urged ; it is only when overdone that the latter can be objected to. It is well not to ignore details ; it is not well to introduce side issues or foreign matter. The price of gardening works is often complained of ; the great expense of getting up a really valuable work is forgotten by such complainers. They forget that authors have to be remunerated, and that publishers have to be recouped for their outlay and get a profit beside. When it is otherwise books will cease to be issued, writers will cease writing, and pub¬ lishers publishing. Still, cheaper gardening w’orks, if sound, would prove a boon, for gardeners' purses are small, and it is only by much self-denial that the young gardener can form a fairly good library ; but this self-denial is itself of the greatest value, and knowledge can never be valued by £ s. d. Were the demand greater possibly good books might be cheaper, but beware of trash. Libraries in gardens are clamoured for. That such may sometimes do good is undoubted, but the book from the library is seldom valued at its worth ; and it is seldom studied — it is read once and replaced on the library shelf, and another taken dowm. This is itself an evil. John Ruskin insists that his books shall not be sold cheap, if they were they wrnuld be less valued. There is much in this. The book that is saved for 212 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t March is, isss. is sure to be studied, and the book that is our own is sure to be read and re read till its contents become part and parcel of one's self. While, then, we are sure that the young man who acquires a library slowly, and studies slowly but surely, is sure to become well informed and reap the full harvest in due time, it is also certain that the bookless truster to libraries will have scant information, and that of a vague confused sort that will avail him nothing. Are libraries for gardeners, then, useless ? By no means ; indeed, we very much wish there were a central library to which gardeners could subscribe and have the chance of perusing books otherwise quite out of reach. Ordinary works should have no place in such, for the reasons given. But what a boon if from such rare and costly works on scientific subjects bearing on gardening, as well as works not to be had in the trade, could be procured. Though any gardener may form a ieally useful library, and by its means become possessed of knowledge quite invaluable, even from the money now wasted in tobacco, beer, and other indulgences (even books of not a useful kind), yet it is impossible that even the most careful and the most studious gardener can get all the books he would like. The writer is just in that position for one, and he and doubtless many others would gladly contribute a moderate sum to a library formed for such a purpose. — Single-handed. CAULIFLOWERS AND BROCCOLI. To think of writing anything original on a subject of this kind would appear to savour of presumptuousness, seeing that they have now been cultivated in our gardens for two or three centuries. Be that as it may, and divesting myself of all thoughts of being able to write anything which is not already known, perhaps a gentle reminder or a few useful hints to the younger members of our craft may not be thought to be out of place. Although botani- eally speaking the Cauliflowers and Broccoli are regarded as being distinct varieties of the same species, they are so much alike iu all points, except perhaps in degree of hardiness, that it is difficult for anyone other than a strict botanist to avoid thinking that one name might do for both. With this, however, cultivators have little to do and need not concern themselves, as it is suffi¬ cient for them to know that in the Cauliflowers and Broccoli they have vegetables which in usefulness are probably second to none, seeing that by a proper selection of sorts and timely forethought in sowing the seed they may be had every month in the year. Not only may they be bad in every month, but an enthusiast might go further and have them every day in the year ; it is only a question of numbers and a little management in lifting and affording protection in severe weather. The Cauliflowers we will take first, and may say that for an early supply — say May and June — there is no longer any neces¬ sity with existing varieties for autumn sowing and wintering in frames, a practice which was followed by those who have gone before us, and indeed is still adopted by the great majority of practitioners of the present day. First on the list of early varieties stands Yeitch’s Early Forcing. Sow seed in heat the first week in January, and when they have formed their leaves prick out the seedlings in boxes ; harden them when large enough, and plant out on a warm south border towards the end of March from a foot to 15 inches apart each way, protecting with Spruce branches on frosty nights until they have taken well to the soil. The latter to produce good heads cannot well be made too rich. By planting out an equal number of the largest and smallest plants from this sowing — or indeed succeeding ones — a succession may be had for the best part of a month. To succeed the above make a sowing of Early London and Walcheren at the same time, also in February, and a last one in March on a south border ; these will continue the supply till July. For a further supply in August — a month in which Cauliflowers are sometimes scarce — sow Autumn Giant in heat at the same time as Early Forcing, and treat in the same way. Successive sowings of the same variety made at the end of February, in March and April, will satisfy demands to the end of November, and the following month the Broccoli will be ready for use. With these we need not enter too minutely into details, a selection of one or two varieties for each succeeding month till June being all that is really requisite, beyond saying that two or three successive sowings should be made in April and May. For cutting in December and January the following can be relied upon : — Veitch’s Self-protecting, Osborn’s Winter White, Snow’s and Backhouse’s Winter White ; for February and March Dilcock’s Bride, Adams’ Early (an excellent sort when true to name), Cooling’s Matchless, and Purple Sprouting. In April, May, and June we have the undermentioned — Suttons’ Protecting, Cattell’s Eclipse, Wilcove White, Carters’ Champion, and Model. Were I to state all I think of the latter variety I am afraid some of your readers would think me guilty of undue flattery ; enough for me to say that with us it has never suffered any injury from frost, and that it maintains the supply well into June. — Et Caeteba. GLADIOLUS CULTURE— HYBRIDS OF GANDAYENSIS. 1 must confess I should have been better pleased as an ardent admirer and grower of the Gladiolus to have found {vide page 178), that Mr. Banks of Sholden, near Deal, had lost his enormous stock of so many thousands through having them injured by frost, because the remedy would have then been easy. “ D., Deal," has, however, snatched away that crumb of comfort, and says the cause must be sought elsewhere. As communicated to the Editor I made the statement on excellent authority, in fact I received a second note to this effect — “ I have noticed 1 D., Deal's,' reply to your inquiry, page 157. ... I must repeat, I visited Mr. Banks’s garden some three years since. He kindly showed me his system of propagating the choicer hybrids of G. gandavensis, and remarked, ‘ Unfortunately I have lost a large number of my choicer Gladioli through the severe frost coming on before I had lifted the bulbs.’ ” Losing “some” and losing “all” are, how¬ ever, different things, so that all may be right in a sense. It has been suggested to me, as this is the planting season, that I might be able to do more service towards extending the culture of this glorious autumn flower by referring to whatever measure of success I had last year, and the system of growth by which it had been attained, than by a useless and discouraging discussion of “ failure.” I only hesitate because I have often done so before, and will now only premise that I do so without any intention of setting my opinion or experience in opposition to any older or better grower. The finest spikes I had last year were from Lord Newport (Kelway). The spike, or stem rather, came double, and one opened after the other. This corm that did so well was com¬ paratively small, not more than one-fourth the size of Dr. Hogg, which only gave one middling spike, and half that of Armide, which I lost. The next best was La Quintinie, kindly presented to me by a French grower with others of less merit, had three spikes — not usual — two of them double, and with twenty and twenty-one perfect blooms. If I were to name another almost equal it should be Cherub, if I remember rightly one of Kelway’s. I do not so much notice those of the crimson or scarlet type like Meyerbeer, that always do well and are ever increasing ; but others, like Flora, Sir Massey Lopes, La Fiancde, Acme, and that rich favourite Mr. Derry, often capricious, were almost as tall and very effective. I was fairly pleased with my results so far, as the season was not as favourable as usual, until I went up to the Royal Horticultural Society’s Autumn Show at Dublin. The silver-cup stand here contained some magnificent spikes. I had to run across to England that evening and took no notes, but I believe 1 am correct in saying from memory — in the absence of any report in the gardening journals — that this belonged to J. F. Lombard, Esq., South Hill, Rathmines, near Dublin. I have no hesitation in saying several of the spikes equalled the best I saw at the International Show at Manchester the previous year, and (again quoting from memory), among those were Duchess of Edinburgh, which I am trying this year, and Rbamnes. So much for some of the more satisfactory results, but there are also failures, but still unaccountable. Mr. Thornton declined to move at all ; Agrius would only stir after being taken up, petted, and put on a hotbed at first ; while Armide and Madame Desportes bade me a long farewell. I do not know if other growers find, as 1 do, a greater mortality among white and shades of white ; but these are small losses, and should only increase the enthusiasm of a real lover of the Gladiolus. I must, however, say a few words on culture before closing. There is no time now to debate as to manuring and preparing the ground in autumn. If the soil is loose and friable bury a quantity of old decomposed manure a few inches beneath the corm, put a handful of sharp river or road sand on this, or with some rich loam or old cow manure pulverised. I always have sand of this kind above and below the corm for with ordinary garden soil, and though many say to bury the corms 6 inches, I consider 3 or 4 amply sufficient. I believe many of the more delicate hybrids are buried so deeply that they cannot mature. Now this question of imperfect maturation to my min4 contains the secret of the so-called degeneration. The commoner practice is to enjoy the flowering and take no further care. Twenty March is. i8P3. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 213 seed pods, say, are allowed to fill, though no seed may be wanting, and growers complain of exhaustion. Of course it is exhausting, and the wonder would be if it were not so with this treatment. I feed all the better hybrids at least once a week with liquid ma¬ nure, not merely during flowering, but during subsequent growth, and I remove every seed pod I do not want, and never leave more than one on each spike. Hundreds can be thus attended to in a few minutes a few times each week. If they are not worth this care, then there should be no complaints if there are failures. If there are trees to shade them, then there can be no proper maturation of the foliage, nor consequently of the youn°’ corm. — W. J. M., Clonmel. EURYA LATIFOLIA VARIEGATA. Amongst ornamental-foliage greenhouse plants that adorn our glass structures, few, if any, deserve a place in any garden more than the subject of this note. It is easily propagated and grown, ami anyone possessing a plant would, I am sure, soon be tempted to increase their stock. For room-decoration and mixing with flowering subjects for the conservatory it is invaluable. Through the summer months there is never any difficulty in finding orna¬ mental-foliage plants for the conservatory, but such is by no means the case through the winter, as many conservatories are not kept sufficiently warm through the winter to admit stove plants to be introduced. In such cases the Emya is very useful. Euonymus can be, and are, used rather extensively for winter work, and are well adapted for the purpose, tut the more the variety the greater the attraction. Well-grown plants of Eurya are very telling arranged amongst other foliage and flowering plants, the habit being compact, foliage large and beautifully variegated. The groundwork of the foliage is green, occupying more than half of the entire leaf, running irregularly on each side of the midrib towards the outer edge. 1 he margin of the leaves are a beautiful creamy white running irregularly towards the midrib, the outer edge being invariably spotted with bright pink. Cuttings strike readily, selecting the half-ripened wood in autumn, and potted in a peaty soil with plenty of sand. The cuttings should be placed in bottom heat and kept close for a short time. In about three months or a little more the cuttings will be well rooted, and may be placed into large 00-size pots, using plenty of peat in the soil. When the pots are well filled with roots the plants can have another shift, and so grown on to the desired size.— G. Walters. POTATOES FOR TABLE AND MARKET. ( Continued from page 193.) In the following notes the figures 1, 2, and 3 indicate first early, second early, and late varieties ; the months the time of planting ; and the asterisks those varieties that are considered the best for market purposes by the respective cultivators. Kent. — 1. February. *01d Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Jack- son’s Improved, and *Covent Garden Perfection. Soil. — Good friable rich loam, subsoil pure yellow loam. 2. End of March or first week in April. Woodstock Kidney, *Beauty of Hebron, Pride of America, and Suttons’ Reading Russet. 3. First week in May. ’’‘Magnum Bonum, *Schoolmaster, ^Scotch Regent, ar.d Suttons’ Reading Hero. Manures and Application. — The only manure I use is well-decayed horse and pigs’ dung, with a good sprinkling of ashes from burnt rubbish. The manure is applied early in the autumn, and dug-in in dry weather where practicable. For late strong-growing sorts no manure is applied. General Culture. — Magnum Bonum is one of the best late Potatoes in cultivation, keeping in a sound condition up to the middle of June ; but it is not thought much of by many as a garden Potato owing to its producing so much haulm. I find they do much better when planted late after the Broccoli comes off, and without any manure. I find the crop much better ; they are a much cleaner sample, the quality of the Potato is improved, and they keep better. These remarks have reference only to the garden. Reading Hero was planted last year in the same way, when it produced a fine crop of first-rate quality ; but planted the previous year in March on well-manured ground the crop was almost useless for the table, and nearly spoiled two other varieties that were planted on each side of the row through the haulm growing over them. — J. Matthews, The Gardens , Woodstock Park. 1. First week in March. *Myatt’s Ashleaf, * Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, and Porter’s Excelsior. Soil. — Medium. 2. End of March or first week in April. ’'Schoolmaster, Beauty of Hebron, Late Rose, and Vica'r of Laleham. Soil. — Medium. 3. First week in April. ♦Magnum Bonum, *Scotch Champion, *Dunbar Regents, and ♦Pater¬ son’s Victoria. Soil. — Heavy. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure with a coating of lime or soot. General Culture. — The farm¬ yard manure is applied as a winter dressing in the kitchen garden. Lime and soot are dusted in the drills at planting time with the sets, and carefully forked in with a two-pronged hoe. The two latter not only act as a stimulant, but help to keep down insects, and the tubers turn out much cleaner. Magnum Bonums, Scotch Champions, &c., are planted 15 inches asunder in rows 3 feet apart. Veitch’s Ashleaf and Schoolmaster are planted 1 foot asunder in rows 2 feet 6 inches apart. The above distances I find are not too great, as it is well known that where close planting is practised and the haulm becomes crowded the disease is sure to appear, and the crop in many cases are completely ruined. I plant most of mine 3 feet 6 inches apart and the above distances asunder to allow for winter vegetables to be planted between ; in this way the Potatoes do remarkably well, as also do the Brassicas. — R. Phillips, The Deodars Gardens, Meo]?ham. Lancashire. — 1. March from 7th to 20th. Old Ashleaf, Mona’s Pride, and Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Light, resting on a red sandstone formation. 2. Last week of March to the first week of April. Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Snowflake, and Bresee’s Prolific. 3. From 20th to the end of April. School¬ master and Magnum Bonum. Soil. — Medium and heavy land ; the former being very good in the garden on light soil. Manures and Application. — The manures used for first and second earlies are old Mushroom beds, half-decayed leaves, wood ashes, and old potting soil well mixed when sufficient ; if not, cow and horse manure mixed and dug into the ground before planting. For the early kinds the above mixture is placed in the trenches, and the sets laid amongst it. For late vaiieties, cow, horse, and sawdust manure are mixed together and placed in the drills previous to planting the sets. General Culture. — The early varieties are planted in sheltered warm positions and well grown before planting, which applies to all except the late varieties. When the shoots are above the ground they are protected until frost is past, generally by placing the soil over them or clean straw. The sawdust manure is considered very good, and liked much on the farm here where the late varieties are grown where they have to be planted on heavy land. — William Bardney, Norris Green , West Derby , Liverpool . 1. Middle to end of March, and the same for the second earlies. ♦Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf and Mona’s Pride. Soil. — Heavy. 2. In¬ ternational, *School master, Dalmahoy, and *Grampian. 3. As early in April as possible. *Scotch Champion, *Magnum Bonum, and Paterson’s Victoria. Manures and Application. — The manures are leaf soil and wood ashes mixed, and applied with the sets at the time of planting (for the garden). The late sorts are planted in the usual way with foldyard manure. General Culture. — Our soil is so very heavy that none but the strongest varieties are grown. Scotch Champion and Magnum Bonum are largely grown by farmers for the Liverpool market ; the later sort procures the highest price. — Thomas Elsworthy, Court Hey , Liverpool. Leicestershire. — 1. Middle of February. ♦Early Hammersmith, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, and Rivets’ Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium. 2. The last week in February if weather and soil are suit¬ able. *Early Rose, *International, and Woodstock Kidney. 3. The first week in March. *Suttons’ Magnum Bonum, Schoolmaster, Bresee’s Prolific, and *Paterson’s Victoria. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure. All ground intended for Potatoes is manured during the winter and thrown into ridges the width required for planting, or as near as it can be done. The Potatoes are planted between the ridges and covered with the soil from the ridges. For the strong growers, such as Magnum Bonum, the ridges are made the same distance apart as for the earlies, about 20 inches, and they are planted between alternate pairs of ridges. The manure I formerly used, and which I prefer for heavy soils, but which I am unable to get now, is a mixture of leaf soil and soot. The leaves were gathered in the autumn and brought to a large heap in a cart with high side boards, and trodden firmly ; to each of these was put one sack of soot. These were turned twice during the winter and well mixed at plant¬ ing time. This was placed along the bottom of the trench and the Potatoes set on it ana covered in the usual way. I usually have the Potatoes earthed-up as fast as the growths advance in the spring. The first named in each class are by far the best Potatoes here in all points. I have some other varieties that I think may prove better than those mentioned when they have been thoroughly tried. — Joseph Lansdell, Barkby Hall. 1. From March to May. *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf and Mona’s Pride. Soil. — Light and medium. 2. York Regents. 3. *Champion, Regents, Magnum Bonum, and Paterson’s Victoria. General Culture. — The ground is double dug, and farmyard manure is placed along the second spit. The drills are drawn 3(1 inches apart, and the sets laid in 18 inches asunder. I consider Champion the best Potato because it has the best flavour. Magnum Bonum will however, I think, be the most profitable to grow for market purposes because it is more generally liked. Magnum Bonum can be boiled with their “ jackets on,” whereas Champions are best peeled before cooking and steamed. There is certainly more waste in paring Champions, but then they are always less in price, so that when put upon the table they are quite as cheap as Magnums, drier, and more meally. — Thos. PlCK- worth, Loughborough. Lincolnshire. — 1. First week in March. Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Light. 2. From March 20th to April Gth. ♦Magnum Bonum and , Scotch Regent ; both also excellent for main crop. 3. From March 20th to April Gth. Champion. Manures and Application. — 214 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March is, isss. I use kainit and any manure containing nitrogen, which is cheap, according to quality, and farmyard manure as much as I can spare. On light lands I prefer deep ploughing. — Ism AY Fisher, Scawby , Brigg. 1. Middle of February. Walnut-leaved Kidney, *Mona’s Pride, Myatt’s Prolific, and Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Old kitchen garden soil of a light character. 2. Middle of March. *Early Rose, Breadfruit, Lapstone, and Covent Garden Perfection. 3. Middle of April. Schoolmaster, Paterson’s Victoria, Magnum Bonum, and *White Rock. Soil. — A medium yellow loam resting on limestone. Manures and Application. — For first and second earlies farmyard manure is dug in during winter, and at planting time ashes are placed in each trench or row. For late varieties farmyard manure is ploughed in fresh in autumn. At planting time the land is drawn into ridges with a ridging plough. Malt dust is then applied at the rate of a ton and a half to the acre. General Culture. — Malt dust has been used here for a number of years for the late Potatoes, and with such good results, both as regards crop and quality, that I feel satisfied a better manure for this crop cannot be easily found. — William Wright, The Gardens , Branston Hall. 1. End of February, on south borders. Early Bird, *Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, *Mona’s Pride, and Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Good garden soil. 2. Middle of March. Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, *Covent Garden Perfection, *Extra Early Vermont, and Grampian. Soil. — Medium. 3. Beginning of April. *Chatnpion, *Magnum Bonum, Dunbar Regent, and Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — Light medium. Manures and Application. — For garden cultivation ashes from refuse are mixed with a fourth part of lime, sprinkled in drills before plant¬ ing. For field culture 12 tons of old farmyard manure and 3 cwt. superphosphate per acre are applied to the drills before planting. General Culture. — Early Potatoes are kept during the winter in shallow boxes or on shelves. In a cool place I plant medium-sized whole tubers, which I consider better than very large or small sets. For field culture the same remarks apply. Early Potatoes are planted in rows 2 feet apart, 1 foot between the sets. Medium and late varieties are planted 3 feet between the rows, and 1 foot between the sets. I grow over one hundred varieties, and I do not find any of the new varieties equal to our well-tried Potatoes for quality and quantity.— David Lumsden, Bloxholm Hall, Sleaford. 1. Middle of March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Mona’s Pride, Porter’s Excelsior, and Dalmahoy. Soil. — Light loam. 2. Middle of April. Gloucestershire Kidney, Yorkshire Hero, Snowflake, and Fortyfold. 3. Middle of April. Paterson's Victoria, Schoolmaster, York Regent, and Magnum Bonum. Manures and Application. — Half-decayed farmyard manure, and used as dry as possible at the time of planting.— J. Gardner, The Gardens, Elsham Hall, Biigg. Middlesex. — 1. March 28th. Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Suttons’ Fillbasket, *EarIy Rose, and *Shaw. Soil. — Medium ; subsoil heavy, well drained. 2. March 22nd. Woodstock Kidney, Covent Garden Perfection, *Beauty of Hebron, and *Dalmahoy. 3. March 15th. ^Reading Hero, *Magnum Bonum, ^Schoolmaster, and Red-skin Flourball. Manures and Application. — I find horse manure the best, dressing it in the autumn, laying the ground rough that it may be well pulverised. Cultural Remarks. — I prefer drawing drills with the hoe, the distance apart varying from 2 to 3 feet according to the growth of the varieties, choosing medium-sized tubers for planting, leaving one eye, or if large cutting them to single eyes. I prefer shallow planting and forking between the rows before earthing the tubers, for planting ought to be laid out thin in an airy place that their shoots may not be drawn up weakly. — Philip C. Cornish, The Shrubbery, Enfield. 1. Second or third week in March. * Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, and Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Medium. 2. Third week in March. *Prince Arthur and *Magnum Bonum. 3. Third week in March or first week in April. *Paterson’s Victoria, Schoolmaster, and *Dunbar Regents. Manures and Application. — I plant all the Potatoes between ridges that have been made for about four months. When I level the soil between the ridges to the depth of G or 7 inches and plant my sets 3 feet wide, 15 or 1G inches from set to set, I then place long stable manure on the top of them, and cover them in with the hoe. General Culture. — I plant my late Potatoes on land that has previously been trenched for Peas, which I plant 7 feet apart from row to row, with a row of Spinach along the centre. I then plant Broccoli 2 feet apart each side of the Spinach, and as I take off the Peas a row of Broccoli is placed in. I take those up about the end of October and lay them in to be pro¬ tected during winter. I then ridge up the ground. At the end of March or first week in April level the soil between the ridges. My sets are then planted, those about the size of an egg uncut, in 3 feet, m width 15 or 1G inches from set to set, I then put a little long stable manure on them. I have the best crops on a change of seed. I would change seed every year if possible. — Daniel Snelling, The Gardens, Laleham House, Staines. 1. — From the middle of February to the middle of March. Vt itch’s Ashleaf, *Cosmopolitan, Huntingdon Kidney, and Myatt’s Ashleaf. Soil. — Our earliest Potatoes are grown on a piece of old garden that has been under cultivation nearly fifty years. The soil is thoroughly pulverised with constant cultivation, and liberal dressings of leaf soil and light manures. In this soil the tubers grow quickly, and they are always good in quality. 2. Middle to end of March. *Covent Garden Perfection, Woodstock Kidney, Beauty of Hebron, and American Purple. Soil. — The soil in our largest garden is rather heavy, and stands on a bed of clay. Ground intended for Potatoes we dress with fine ashes, and turn it up roughly in ridges during the winter. At planting time we give the ground a light dressing w-ith lime, and then fork down the ridges, thoroughly blending the lime and soil as the work proceeds. 3. Second week in March to end of first week in April. *Paterson’s Victoria, Schoolmaster, and Vicar of Laleham. Manures and Application. — I am not an advocate for applying rank manures in the cultivation of the Potato. On our soil I find nothing to equal lime, wood ashes, and sand for giving clean tubers of good quality. General Culture. — In the cultivation of the Potato I attach more importance to well-worked land and wide planting than all other cultural details. At planting time the ground should be as light as it is possible to make it, and the tubers should be covered very lightly, and before the final earthing the whole of the ground between the rows ought to be carefully forked over to bring it into proper condition for placing round the stems of the Potatoes. — J. Roberts, Gunnersbury Park, Acton. Monmoethshire. — 1. March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Early Hammersmith, Dwarf Top Ashleaf, and Early Bird. Soil. — Light. 2. March and April. Covent Garden Perfection, Stratton’s Seedling, King of the Potatoes, and Myatt’s Prolific. Soil. — Light. 3. April. Rector of Woodstock, Magnum Bonum, Scotch Champions, and Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — Medium. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure is employed. — A. S. Woods, The Gardens, Tredegar Park, Newport. 1. End of March. *Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf and Early Shaw. Soil. — Heavy, subsoil marl, and the same for all the sections. 2. Early in April. Gloucestershire Kidney, Flourball, and Rector of Woodstock. 3. Early in April. Fluke, *Schoolmaster, and *Magnum Bonum. Manures and Application. — Stable manure for the preceding crops, with lime and burned rubbish previous to planting. General Culture. — We select plots of ground for the main crops of Potatoes, which have been double dug and heavily dressed with stable manure the preceding season for Peas, or some other similar summer crop. As soon in the autumn as these crops are cleared off the ground is again double dug, and left exposed to be pulverised by frosts during the winter and early spring months, until a short time previous to the planting season, when it receives a dressing of unslaked lime and charred rubbish, which is hacked into the surface. At planting time the ground is dug in the ordinary manner and well broken, and as the digging proceeds the Potatoes are planted in rows, the early varieties 2 feet apart, the later and strong-growing stools are allowed G or 9 inches more, and all kinds are covered with about 4 inches depth of soil. — Thomas Coomber, The Ilendre Gardens. Norfolk. — 1. March. Old Ashleaf and Veitch’s Improved Ash¬ leaf. Soil. — Medium loam. 2. April, first part. Porter’s Excelsior, Early Goderich, Schoolmaster, and White Elephant. 3. Latter part of April. Magnum Bonum and Scotch Champion. Manures and Application. — A good coat of farmyard manure in the autumn, 20 loads per acre applied to ordinary agricultural land the first season ; 20 bushels of soot per acre, and 3 cwt. of Horsfield’s Mangold manure applied just before earthing up. General Culture. — We have the last two or three years grown for first crop and forcing the old type of Ashleaf. We had lost it for several seasons, but fortunately secured a true stock of it again, and believe now there is nothing amongst newer kinds to surpass it, especially for flavour, when new'. It is also very productive. Porter’s Excelsior is a real acquisition, excellent in every way ; very free from disease. For the farm this season we shall only plant Magnum Bonum. We secured last year a very fine crop of handsome tubers of first-class quality. Scotch Champion, on the other hand, is not so productive ; it makes too much top, and exhausts the soil before the tubers are formed. We dress our Potatoes with soot and Mangold manure just before earth¬ ing up, after the horse hoe has been through twice, as by this time the haulm is well developed and the tubers forming, in preference to sowing it in the rows at planting time ; as these stimulants, if applied at that stage, force an abnormal growth of haulm. We always find we get a heavier crop of sound tubers when the sun can shine between the rows. — Wm. Allan, Gunton Park. 1. Middle of February. Mona’s Piide, Old Ashleaf, and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Light, black, sandy soil; cold, wet, sandy subsoil. Dry very quick in summer. 2. Middle of March. Extra Early and *Vermont. 3. From middle to end of March. Late Rose, ^Schoolmaster, and *Magnum Bonum. Manures and Application. — As a rule I never apply manure for Potatoes, but plenty of manure from linings of pits, ike., is dug in the bottom spit when bastard¬ trenching for other crops. General Culture. — Crops generally are large but never quite free from disease. The old-fashioned plan I adopted more than a quarter of a century ago I still practise. 1 plant whole sets, large ones, a yard each way apart, these grow the largest crops. — Henry Wright, The Gardens, West Harling Hall, Thetford. 1. March. Early Ashleaf and *Myatt‘s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Light. 2. March. Woodstock and Ashtop Fluke. 3. April. *Mag- num Bonum, Schoolmaster, and *Walker’s Regents. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure is applied at the rate of 30 cubic i ■ i i March is, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 215 yards per acre, well dug in about December or Januarv, and a little wood ashes sprinkled in the rows when planting. — W. SaiNGLER, Melton Constable. Nottinghamshire. — 1. March. Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, *Beauty of Hebron, *Early American Rose, and Early Racehorse. Soil. — Light, black. 2. April. Covent Garden Perfection, ^International, *Late Rose, and Porter’s Excelsior. Soil. — Medium. 8. April. *Magnum Bonum, Schoolmaster, Suttons’ Reading Hero, and *Red- skinned Flourball. Manures and Application. — Last year I used soot as a fertiliser. This was applied by hand between the rows just before earthing up. The quantity so applied was a moderate sprink¬ ling, and as a result we had an exceedingly fine crop of sound tubers. This year I am using lime. I applied this in January, and I may add I have no doubt the results will be equally satisfactory. General Culture. — The preparation of the secs is a very important matter, for upon, this depends in a great measure success or failure. It is my practice to pick out what sets I think will be required as early as convenient after the tubers are lifted. The set thus secured is placed in . single layers in a dry room where frost can be excluded, the object being to secure strong sprouts by planting time. I never sprout seed Potatoes. Indeed, with such treatment it is not neces¬ sary. The next most important matter is the time most suitable for planting. Providing the seed is, as it ought to be, in good condition, nothing is gained by planting too early. Again, the soil here is so various, as it undoubtedly is in most gardens, that to attempt to grow Potatoes in some of it would be folly. In planting my mode of procedure is as follows : — To begin with the early ones. These are planted in lines, the lines being and the sets 18 inches apart. We make a trench with the spade and place the sets carefully into it, covering the same about 2 inches in depth with the soil out of the next trench. The later sorts are treated in the same manner, with this, exception — the lines and the sets are placed further apart. This varies of course with the sorts of Potatoes grown and the kind of soil they are to be grown in. Magnum Bonum, for instance, requires with me 2 feet G inches between the lines, and 2 feet between the sets. Champion and other large haulm-producing sorts require even still more room. The after-treatment consists in keeping them free from weeds, and earthing up when sufficiently advanced in growth. — Joseph Richardson, The Gardens , Calverton Hall. A NOTE ON HOLLYHOCKS. It is not yet too late to propagate these, the best way by far being to graft the young growths on to pieces of roots. Cuttings will strike, but at this season the process is a very slow one and failures are common. A point of importance is to keep the young plants from becoming root-bound in small pots. When healthy, Hollyhocks are vigorous root-producers and will require, if strong, to be transferred into 7-inch pots before they are planted out. The compost should be of strong loam enriched with a third part of cow manure and a sprinkling of half-inch bones. The compost can hardly be rendered too firm. A cold frame is the best place to keep the plants, giving them protection in cold weather, and in warm weather allow them plenty of air. From the middle to the end of April is a good time to plant them out, protecting them on cold nights by placing a large flower pot over each. The disease (Puccinia malvacearum) was very destructive dur¬ ing the past year, though in the previous season we had the plants clean. Dry hot weather is apparently a suitable atmospheric condition for the propagation and extension of this destructive fungus. I know of no cure or means of lessening its effects on the plants. For those who wish to grow a collection of named varieties a short list is appended of the best : — Alba superba, Cygnet, Flora Macdonald, Hercules, In Memoriam, J. M. Lindsay, Mrs. Downio, Meranon Improved, Octoroon, Perfection, Purple Prince, Queen of Buffs, Queen of Whites, Queen of Yellows, Stanstead Rival, Tecoma, William Thomson. — R. P. B. CHOICE HARDY PLANTS IN FLOWER. Scilla bifolia and Varieties. — This is an extremely pretty species, coming in a little before S. sibirica outside, and is perfectly hardy, while the simple means by which it may be well grown are points in its favour. It has one-sided spikes of bright blue flowers, not so large as those of S. sibirica, and more open. Some distinct forms I have now in flower are particularly showy and worthy of mention. Alba is similar to the type, but the flowers are quite white, as its name implies ; this is very desirable. Atro-easrulea produces numerously flowered spikes of a deep cserulean blue colour, and is very striking ; rosea has rose-pink flowers, and re¬ sembles the type in disposition ; grandiflora resembles the normal form in the floral arrangement, but the individual flowers are very much larger and brighter in colour ; and finally, corymbosa pro¬ duces copiously flower corymbs of deep blue flowers, and is very handsome, as, indeed, all of them are, and outside, even in the untoward climate of Cheshire, they are thriving remarkably. As I intimated above, they are most easily grown, requiring only to be planted in moderately light and rich soil. In clumps they look extremely pretty, but I have some of them planted in crannies and nooks of the rockery, and they materially assist to enliven it during the month of February. SisyrincMvm grandiflorum. — A very charming little plant, ap¬ parently as hardy as any of our indigenous species, as I have known it stand in most exposed situations even through severe wdnters. Of course the beauty of the plant is retained for a much longer period if a sheltered position is found it, free from driving winds and heavy rains. It has Grass or Rush-like foliage about !) inches high, and the flower stem is usually rather taller, one or two-flowered. The flowers when expanded are about H inch across, with six equal divisions of a clear purple colour, more or less ob¬ long, and shortly aouminate at the apex. The divisions of the white-flowered variety (alba.) are lanceolate without the distinctly formed apices of the typical form, in all other respects it is similar. They are both beautifully in flower now, although rather early for this part of the country. Their precocity has undoubtedly been accelerated by the exceptionally mild winter we have experienced and the spring-like weather of the last two or three weeks. There is no difficulty attending their cultivation, as they thrive with the same treatment afforded Scilla bifolia. Planted in masses they look very pretty. To produce the most charming effect they should be planted together, so that the distinctly coloured flowers intermingle. Ma scar i JETeldreichi. — The first Grape Hyacinth to bloom with us here, and a very pretty one it is. The flower spikes are about 1 to 2 inches long, thickly set with small pitcher-shaped flowers ; the dilated portion of a bright sky-blue, while the slightly spread¬ ing limb is pure white, the contrast being striking and pleasing. The Grape Hyacinths are favourites of mine, and as they expand I shall make a few remarks upon them for the Journal. M. Szo- vitzianum will be the next in bloom, and it is also pretty. Cliionodoxa Lucilice. — A most beautiful bulbous plant and deservedly popular. I enjoyed a rich feast at the end of February of seeing some thousands in flower at Messrs. James Dickson and Son’s nursery at Chester, and understood there was no difficulty attending its cultivation. In my experience the bulbsi m n-ove greatly after being planted a year or two. I have some bulbs which were imported in 1881, and have been in the ground ever since, have now eight, nine, and one with ten flowers on single spikes ; while those bulbs imported in the autumn of 1882 pro¬ duce but one or two, rarely three, flowers : and the individual flowers of the former are very much larger and of a better colour than the latter, so we may hope it will be a bulb which will im¬ prove with us. It is most easily raised from seed, which should be sown so soon as it is ripe, and it may germinate the same year ; but the following spring the plants will come up thickly, so do not introduce your seed pans to the rubbish heap if your patience is worn out, as a crop is certain. Some pans of seed sown last June are now filled with young plants as thickly as they can exist without inconvenience. It enjoys a light rich soil with a sunny aspect, when it will produce a very charming effect yearly. Galanthus Elrcesii. — I have had a large number of this elegant Snowdrop in flower this season, and to my mind it is the best of them all. Of one thing I am certain — it is the most variable, for there have been some most remarkable forms among an importa¬ tion of last year, as well as among some bulbs obtained from Asia in 1881 — flowers with very narrow petals ; in fact, I have seen every intermediate form of perianth division, from the spherical characteristic type of the species to one not more than an eighth of an inch in diameter, and one bulb produced flowers with the three outer divisions sharply reflexed like those of Narcissus triandrus. This I hope to watch another season, and if the same peculiarity is revealed it will indeed be a most desirable deviation. However much the form of the flower varies, there is always the distinct band of green at the base of the inner divisions of the perianth, intercepted by a white band from the blotches of green near the notches at the top of the divisions. Out of several hundred bulbs I have only one bulb which has produced what I regard as the typical flower of G. Elwesii, and by which Mr. Baker characterised the species, and this came to me by accident among Chionodoxas. In outline the flowers are almost globular, while the outer divisions are nearly round, contracted sharply at the base. In this form it is most distinct. G. llcdontci, or what is really latifolius, has large deep green leaves, with small nivalis-like flowers of a very thin texture. G. plicatvs, the Crimean Snowdrop, has nivalis-like flowers in form, but larger, and the green of the inner perianth divisions JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 15, 1883. extends from the top to the base without interruption, while the margins of the leaves are distinctly folded, as its specific name implies. It is remarkable that the green colouring of the inner division should be so constant in each species, differing in each. I have examined a large number of flowers in each introduced species, and found them all constant in this respect, however much they varied in other details. Hepaticas. — These are amongst the most beautiful of early spring flowers, and are admirably adapted for borders, rockeries, and spring bedding, and it is a marvel that we do not see them more frequently. They are really old-fashioned flowers, and there are many old country gardens where they exist in abundance. The forms of H. triloba, red, white, and blue, are all very pretty. The double forms of the former and latter are most useful, although the double blue is rather scarce. There is, as far as I know, no duplex white variety, which is a pity. Barlow’s single blue is large and of good substance, with broad petals, but there is an endless variety of colour in them, particularly among collected species from their natural habitats. H. angulosa is really the best blue. The flowers are much larger than those of H. triloba, resembling a miniature Clematis, of clear sky blue colour, and very lasting. The plant is floriferous and hardy — points which render it a favourite with all who see it. — Cestrian. We are glad to find that the Royal Horticultural Society is about to resume its Provincial Shows. An in¬ vitation has come from the Mayor of Birmingham for the Society to hold a great show there in July next, and with the assurance that a complete guarantee against loss would be raised. The matter was submitted to the Council on Tuesday last, and the invitation accepted, a committee being appointed to conduct the arrangements with the Birmingham committee. We are rejoiced to see the Society again turning its attention to national horticulture, in which alone its mainstay is to be found, and by which its greatest prestige is to be maintained. The Show will be held in the Lower Aston Grounds, as on the former occasion in 1872. These Grounds are now in the occu¬ pation of Mr. Reeves Smith, and the facilities for the transmission of goods and passengers are now very much increased to what they were before, when the Grounds were occupied by Mr. Quilter. - At a General Meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society held last Tuesday, Maxwell T. Masters, Esq., M.D., F.R.S., in the chair, the following candidates were unanimously elected Fellows — viz., Professor Allman, F.R.S., Wm. Cornwall Cowley, William Fish, Joseph Fromow, W. Ferdinand Hensley, Charles C. Laing, Arthur H. Lancaster, Donald Larnach, Mrs. Edward Lushington, Joseph Marten, Mrs. Frances Mitchell, Hugo Muller, M.D., F.R.S., James O’Brien, George Paul, J. T. Rogers, Dr. C. William Siemens, F.R.S., Harry Smith, Joseph Stevenson, B.A. (Secretary Agri -Horticultural Society of Madras), Edward William Thompson, Mrs. James Walker, Thomas Walker, F.L.S., R. E. Webster, Q.C., Coventry A. Woodhouse. - The Farningham Rose Show is fixed for Thursday July^fith of the present year. - Mr. John Nunns writes — “ In your last issue I read with great [interest the article on lifting Vines in March. I com- pliment^Mr. Bardney on his success, and should be glad if he would kindly state the age of the Vines at the time of lifting.” - Mr. G. Summers, The Gardens, Sandbeck Park, Rother¬ ham, sends us a box of unusually handsome blooms of Marie Louise Violets, which he states were gathered from a cold frame covered with 6 inches depth of snow. The flowers were exceedingly fine, indeed we have never seen better, and we should be glad if Mr. Summers would describe the system of culture which has produced such satisfactory results. - We are not over-sensitive on the question of the abstraction OF articles from our pages and inserted in other papers without acknowledgment, and it is only in a flagrant case of this kind that we make any reference to the matter. This week we have answered a correspondent on another page in a manner in which we think no exception can be taken by unprejudiced readers, and there we had intended the matter to end. Since, however, that reply was given our attention has been drawn to another paragraph in the same issue of the Garden that has undoubtedly been obtained from our columns, page 12, vol. iv., the issue of January 5th, 1882, yet not acknow¬ ledged ; and still another half column appears from an article originally published by us in our issue of January 4th of the present year, and the author’s MS. of which is in our possession. Having regard to the extraordinary fact that all these extracts should appear in one article in another paper, we are justified in asking “ F. W. B.” why one paragraph extracted from a con¬ temporary should be acknowledged, while for three which he takes from our pages for making up the same article no acknow¬ ledgment is vouchsafed 1 - Mr. Charles Bateson, writing in an answer to a question about destroying insects on Mushroom beds, observes — “If sugar and plaster of Paris are mixed together in any proportion, 6trewn about an inch high all round the top of the bed, the insects will speedily disappear, at least I have found this simple mode very efficient. They eat it for the sake of the sugar, and I suppose the plaster of Paris must harden in their stomachs and so kill them.” - Mrs. E. Miles, the widow of the late Mr. W. Miles of The West Brighton Nurseries, who died on February the 4th last, has issued a circular stating that she intends carrying on the business as before with the assistance of her son and daughters, retaining the services of the whole of the principal men as foremen, shop¬ men, clerks, &c. - Messrs. Kay & Son have sent us a sample of Indian MUSLIN, which appears a very suitable material for shading in summer and protecting the blossoms of fruit trees in spring. For the latter purpose it would not require to be rolled up, as, while it would afford shelter against ordinary spring frosts and sharp winds, it would also admit light and air to the trees. Though very light it appears strong, and is worthy of a trial in gardens. - At a meeting of the Kingston-on-Thames Chrysanthemum Society held last week, the question of the NOMENCLATURE OF Chrysanthemums was under discussion, and the following re¬ solution was agreed to : — “This meeting resolves that a sub¬ committee of six members and the Secretary, Mr. Jackson, be appointed as a conference to discuss the nomenclature of the In¬ curved varieties of the Chrysanthemum, with a view of settling the confusion which now exists, and that invitations be sent to the Journal of Horticulture, Gardeners' Magazine, and the Gardeners' Chronicle to send representatives on that conference ; and that the Editor of the Journal of Horticulture be asked to furnish copies of the election and subsequent correspondence which has appeared in that paper for the use of the members of the con¬ ference.” The members elected on the sub-committee are Messrs. Beckett, Croxford, Hinnell, Lyne, Moorman, Orchard, and Shep¬ pard. Mr. Moorman to represent Mr. Jackson as Secretary of the Conference. This is a step in the right direction, and it will be well if it leads to the publication of an authoritative descriptive catalogue of Chrysanthemums, which is quite as much wanted as was the catalogue of Roses of the National Rose Society, and would be equally well received by admirers of the popular autumn flower. & W mme J\ F SLU VI] It pq m cru. p§f March 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 217 - The London Koyal Botanic Society’s Exhibitions for this year will be held in the Botanic Gardens, Regent’s Park, as follows : — Spring shows, March 28th and April 25th ; summer shows, May 16th and June 13tb. Evening Fete and Exhibition, June 27th, and a special show of Roses by Messrs. W. Paul Sc Son, Waltham Cross, May 2nd to 10th. Botanical lectures will be held on Fridays in May and June at 4 p.m., and promenades on Wed¬ nesdays in May, J une, and J uly at 3.30 p.m. Liberal prizes are offered at all the shows, the provision for Orchids, Pelargoniums, stove and greenhouse plants, Roses, and fine-foliage plants beiDg especially good. - We have received the following communication in re¬ ference to A NEW PUBLIC PARK AT Bedford. The Corporation of Bedford, having recently decided to appropriate 61 acres of land adjoining the cemetery for the purpose of forming a public park, offered a prize of twenty-five guineas for the best set of plans for laying out the same. The Park Committee met on Friday last, and unanimously decided to adopt the plans of Messrs. Barron and Son of Elvaston Nurseries, Borrowash. The site is admirably adapted for a public park, the ground sloping gradually to the south. The prize plans provide for a piece of ornamental water in the south-east or lower portion of the park about three acres in extent. Large open spaces are devoted to cricket, football, and parade ground. The two main entrances are at either end of a new road 100 feet in width, which the Corporation propose to construct along the southern boundary of the park. A refresh¬ ment pavilion surrounded by a flower garden occupies a con¬ spicuous position, leading from which is an avenue of Lime trees terminated by a fountain. Tennis lawns, bowling green, archery ground, and a gymnasium are provided, also designs for an entrance lodge, band stand, rustic shelters, &c. - Relative to the distribution of Auricula Seed on behalf of “ Single-handed,” we found that to have sent the seed in the order in which the letters were opened would have placed applicants in distant parts of the country at an unfair disadvantage, as the letters of many, even if sent immediately on receipt of the Journal, could not possibly reach us the same week. We determined, therefore, to distribute the seed as equi¬ tably as possible on Tuesday night, returning stamps to those to whom we could not send the number of packets desired. The demand has very far exceeded the supply, and we have been compelled to return the whole of the stamps, less one in each case for postage, that reached us on Wednesday morning. - We learn from the schedule to hand that the Manchester National Horticultural Exhibition will be held in the Botanic Gardens, Old Trafford, from May 11th to 18th of the present year, when the usual liberal prizes will be offered in seventy-nine classes for plants, flowers, and fruits. Orchids are well provided for, eight classes being devoted to them, the prizes ranging from £16 to £2, one class being for ten bond fide speci¬ mens, in which “ made up ” specimens will disqualify the exhibitor. Stove and greenhouse plants, fine-foliage plants, Pelargoniums, hardy plants, and miscellaneous collections all have special classes devoted to them. There is an announcement in the schedule to the effect that a new exhibition house one-third larger than the old one has been erected, and the Council are desirous that the first show held in the new building shall be a very fine one ; they therefore invite exhibitors to aid them as much as possible. - During the past week the weather has been unusually severe, and has seriously interfered with garden and land work generally. Low temperatures, keen winds, and several falls of snow have had a most injurious effect upon the advancing vegeta¬ tion, though probably the results would have been worse a week or two hence. Around London the fruit trees appear to be scarcely sufficiently advanced to suffer much injury, though the bracts surrounding the Pear buds have been much browned in several cases. This is very observable in the Royal Horticultural Society’s Garden, Chiswick, where also a few early Peaches seem to be in danger. The effects, however, cannot at present be accu¬ rately estimated. At Chiswick the lowest temperature registered was last Thursday and Friday, when the thermometer fell to 21° Fahr. As, however, will be seen from the following notes, much lower temperatures have been experienced. - Mr. W. Taylor of Longleat Gardens writes : — "We are having a veritable winter here, and coming when the Peach trees are in bloom it is rather awkward. Our minimum temperatures 4 feet from the ground from the 7th to the 12th inclusive have been 26°, 25°, 24°, 17^°, 18°, and 22°. On the grass it was 24°, 22°, 21°, 11°, 12°, and 17°. Ice is l£ inch thick ; we purpose carting some to-morrow should the present weather continue. There was ice inside the glass of all our hothouses on the 10th, and some shoots of Vines almost in flower in an old-fashioned house, where the trellis is too close to the roof, were frozen to the glass. A few of them which the sun touched early have the appearance of being scorched, but they are not so much hurt as I imagined they would be. The thermometer in this house did not go below 54° during the night.” - Mr. G. Abbey, Paxton Park Gardens, St. Neots, also writes as follows respecting the weather — “ On the night of March 10th 15° of frost were registered here, the temperature falling to 17° Fahr. The last few days have been very cold and the ground covered with snow ; on the 8th it lay 4 to 6 inches deep. The sun has much reduced the depth of snow, but in the shade frost has prevailed throughout the day.” - Mr. F. Taylor writes from Welbeck — “ The thermometer registered 7° at eleven o’clock on Friday night, the 9 th. At five o’clock on Saturday morning the 10th, 2°, or 30° of frost. This is 3° more frost than we have had any time during this winter, and to assist in its work of destruction the sun came out bright and powerful, registering 67° by ten o’clock— a rise of 65° in five hours. I believe all the bloom of early-flowering shrubs is completely destroyed. The buds of Lilac, Ribes, and young growth of Roses to all appearance are as bad as if they had been baked in front of a fire.” - Messrs. Collins Brothers Sc Gabriel write to us a3 follows on Anemone fulgens and Corbularia citrina — “ Anemone fulgens blooms are not sent to Covent Garden as cut flowers, but varieties of coronaria and hortensis. The flowers 6ent you were for your opinion as to quality, they were sent over from France to us cut from our roots. The Narcissus corbularia citrina is a rarity scarcely known in English gardens, and very difficult to procure even in their native habitat, the south of France, and we do not suppose a single blossom has ever been sold in Covent Garden.” [We did not mention Covent Garden, and the term “ market ” was employed as we were under the impression that the flowers in question were sent to this country for sale, and that Messrs. Collins Sc Gabriel had a market for them. Having grown all the Anemones mentioned, some of them for thirty years, we claim some acquaintance with their relative characters, and we cannot say how many times we have seen all of them sold in Covent Garden Market. We never saw more richly coloured flowers than those sent to us, while those of the Bulbocodium were charming, and plants ought to be grown in all gardens where dwarf early spring flowers are cherished.] - Mr. F. W. Burbidge, F.L.S., Curator of the Trinity College Botanic Garden, Dublin, recently delivered a lecture on domestic gardening under the auspices of the Ratbgar Sanitary and Health Association. There was a crowded attendance, and the chair was taken by Mr. J. F. Lombard, J.P. The lecturer, •: - - - - - - - - - - 218 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 15, 1883. after some introductory observations, said that all plants had their uses and their beauty. Of all decorative arts gardening was the most useful. Flowers were beautiful and interesting everywhere, but in towns their value and beauty were most to be appreciated. Nothing could be more delightful than the effects of window gardening properly carried out. Plants as a decora¬ tion were essentially true and real. In art the poor man had to be content with the cheap print or imitation painting — the proof before letters with the engraving were reserved for the rich ; but a Lily in the garden of the artisan was a true masterpiece, a sterling coin from the universal mint. The proposition so energetically made to plant with trees suitable districts was one that deserved to be supported. In the first place it would be the means of giving employment, and it would add wealth to such land as was at present practically worthless. Dr. Lyons’ scheme recommended itself on economic grounds, for whenever a tree was properly planted in suitable soil the machinery of Nature was set in motion on our behalf. The lecturer alluded to the advantages Dublin possessed for plant culture as compared with towns in England. Dublin had the advantage of a land breeze and of a sea breeze. He described a simple plan originated by Matthieu Williams, F.C.S., and described by him in a lecture before the Society of Arts, London, by which, with the aid of a kind of cheap rough canvas, a species of greenhouse could be at a trifling cost erected. He thought that the principles of elementary horticulture should form a subject of instruction in the public schools of countries that depended so much on the products of the land. The lecture was listened to with the greatest interest, and was loudly ap¬ plauded. • - Tiie Warnicit Advertiser of March 10th gave the follow¬ ing particulars of a presentation to Mr. W. Gardiner of Ettington Park Gardens. — “ On Tuesday last an illuminated address and a purse of sovereigns were presented to Mr. William Gardiner on giving up the charge of Ettington Park Gardens. The address was as follows — ‘To Mr. William Gardiner. Dear Sir, — We, the undersigned friends and well-wishers, beg to pre¬ sent you with a purse of sovereigns as a slight token of our respect and esteem for you, on relinquishing the charge of Ettington Park Gardens, which you have held with so much credit for nearly twenty-five years. We venture to express a hope that you may long be spared to enjoy health and happiness, and we remain, Sir, yours faithfully.’ The address was beautifully illuminated. The presentation was made by Mr. Greenfield, the Hon. Secretary, and Mr. Evans, Treasurer of the fund, on behalf of the subscribers, and Mr. Gardiner acknowledged the receipt of the testimonial in suitable terms.” He has been succeeded by Mr. J. Haylock, late foreman at Apley Castle Gardens, Salop. SO-CALLED LAEGE BUNCHES OF GKAPES. The letter of “A Grower” in your last week’s issue on the above subject, in which he avers that I have failed to show how these bunches are produced, and in which he rather dogmatically asserts that the bunch figured by you was neither more or less than one bunch, proves the desirability of a little friendly dis¬ cussion on the subject, which I took the liberty of inviting in the notice taken exception to by “ A Grower,” and which I hope may result in clearing up the perplexity that “A Grower ’’seems to have fallen into. My object was simply to state the fact that large bunches were easily produced in the manner there described, and not to discuss the question of whether bunches so produced were Iona fide or not. This would have been entering on debatable ground, which in that notice I bad no desire to do ; but I sufficiently indicated my belief that bunches so produced were not, in my opinion, single bunches in the sense generally accepted among gardeners. I simply give this as an opinion, with no thought whatever, as your correspondent insinuates, of blaming past exhibitors in the matter. It is said that a grain of help is worth a bushel of sympathy. So with the hope and desire of enlightening “ A Grower,” you will perhaps kindly send the two Vine shoots to him which I herewith send you. On the most forward shoot, where the berries are set and thinned, you can see very plainly that two bunches have been converted into one cluster, which to the uninitiated would be difficult to distinguish from a single bunch. The second shoot is, as you see, showing two bunches ; and with the object of making the two bunches into one cluster I take off the point of the shoot, leaf and all, close to the second bunch, which at once accomplishes the object in view ; and I take it that “ A Grower,” as a candid and practical man, will at once admit, without too much “ reading or reasoning,” that this is an easy and expeditious way of converting two bunches into one, if I may use the term. As a matter of course, after the close stopping of the shoot it makes no further growth from the point, but generally a lateral starts from the axil of the leaf behind the first bunch, which is encouraged to grow and to become the leading shoot to the bunch, and the part of the original shoot between the two Fig. 58.— Phalrenopsis Etmeraldn. bunches becomes a stalk to the united bunches. It was so in the cluster figured by you. I claim no merit whatever in having discovered this way of making large clusters. It has been practised by some for many years ; but as one always willing to learn, and glad of information on any matter appertaining to gardening, I thought the matter might by chance interest some of your readers. — Druid. [We have forwarded the samples to our correspondent “A Grower.”] TWO PHALAENOPSIDS. The accompanying woodcuts represent the flowers of two com¬ paratively new Moth Orchids, and both are well worth the notice of Orchid growers. P. leucorrhoda is a native of the Philippine Islands, whence it was introduced in 1875, and it has been con¬ sidered by some to be a natural hybrid between P. Schilleriana, which it resembles in its leaves, and P. amabilis, to which it is related in its floral characters. The flowers are white slightly tinged with purple, the base of the lip being yellow with purple spots. The variety shown in fig. 59 is a remarkably handsome one from Mr. Brymer’s collection, Ilsington House, Dorchester, and is probably the finest in cultivation both in size and form. P. Esmeralda (fig. 58), is a native of Cochin China, and was introduced thence by Mr. Godcfroy Lebeuf in 1877. It is a small- March 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. growing species, with marbled leaves about 8 inches long and " broad. I be scape is a foot high, with a few rose-coloured flowers near the summit. The woodcut, which was prepared from a plant in Messrs. J . Veitch’s nursery, faithfully pourtrays the chief characters of the plant, which, though not so handsome as some of its allies, is yet pretty and neat, if only for the sake of the con¬ trast it presents with such large-flowered forms as P. grandiflora. It might be added that P. Esmeralda is named after the heroine in M. Alexandre Dumas’s “ Notre Dame de Paris.” AMARYLLISES AT CHELSEA. A thousand heads of Amaryllis flowers form an exhibition which can only be considered as unique, and the magnificence of such a display can be better imagined than described. Visitors to Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons’ Chelsea nursery, however, have now the oppor¬ tunity of inspecting such a grand show as has been rarely seen even there, and all who can should call there during the next week. The improvement that has been effected in these plants since the attention of the firm was specially directed to them is astonishing. Not only have the flowers been greatly increased in size, but the form has been rendered more symmetrical, the petals are broader, more rounded, and the general contour of the flower more pleasing than the earlier types. The colours, too, have been more diversified ; rich crimson, scarlets of numerous shades, from the darkest tint to the brightest orange hues, delicate pink and rose, are similarly represented, the last chiefly in the form of veining or reticulations on a white ground. The vigour of the majority of the plants arranged in the span- roof house devoted to them is very noteworthy, a large proportion of them bearing two spikes each, and some three, the stems of such varieties as The Giant being fully 2 inches in diameter, and 220 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. c March is, 1883. producing two to five flowers. A large number of the plants are seedlings resulting from careful crossing, and now flowering for the first time, but a fair proportion of the older varieties are also included, though the demands for these last year nearly exhausted the supply of flowering bulbs. There are, however, many thou¬ sands of offsets and seedlings advancing, and in a year or two the collection will be enormous. It is almost impossible to enumerate all the varieties now in flower, but a few of the best may be briefly noted, commencing with the novelties. Perhaps the most remarkable amongst these is Carminata, which has flowers of great size, 8 inches in diameter, and the petals 3 inches broad. It is finely rounded and com¬ paratively flat, the tube being very short, and the petals spread¬ ing, streaked and veined with soft delicate pink on a pure white ground. Dr. Hogg is another fine variety, with deep rich scarlet flowers of good form, and borne four in a head. Sir Evelyn Wood has large rich vermilion flowers, two in a head, the petals slightly recurved and darker in the centre. Pallidiflora is more curious than beautiful, the flowers of neat form, with a creamy ground colour streaked with red. With regard to these four varieties it is remarkable that they were all obtained from one pod of seed, the result of crossing Mrs. Baker with Virgil, both varieties that are well known. George Gordon is a very distinct and beautiful variety, the petals broad, slightly recurved, bright scarlet, with a white central streak. Mrs. Wynne has rich crimson flowers of good form, the centre of the petals streaked with white. It is a handsome and finely coloured variety. William Goldring is a striking variety, the flowers large and of good form, the petals rich scarlet, with a central band of white. It is very vigorous, the plant bearing two spikes, one with three and the other with four flowers. Baroness Ilenry Schroder is one of the grandest of the novelties, the flowers 9 inches in diameter, white, with crimson streaks. Mrs. John Freeman is another superb form, very distinct, the flowers large, excellent in form, white, with rosy-crimson streaks, and light tips to the petals. Mrs. L. Castle, a neat variety of the Leopoldi type, the petals broad, rich crimson, tipped with creamy white. Duke of Cambridge, a noble variety, flowers rich scarlet, four in a head, vigorous and striking. Princess Christian, of the Leopoldi typo, bright crimson, the petals tipped with white. Zephyra, remarkable for the fine shape of the flowers, the petals 3 inches in diameter, warm crimson, the tips white. There are many other handsome varieties which we shall have occasion to notice in another issue, but two of the older varieties demand a word now — viz., John Heal, which bears the name of Messrs. Veitch’s foreman who has charge of these plants, and who has contributed so greatly to their improvement, and the other is Empress of India. John Heal is probably the finest of the Leopoldi section, having rich crimson flowers tipped with creamy white, the petals nearly 4 inches in diameter and of great sub¬ stance. Empress of Iudia is surprisingly vigorous, one plant having three strong spikes, on one of which five flowers are expanding, and when these are fully out the plant will be magnificent in the extreme. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. March 13th. The exhibits at this meeting were not very numerous and were confined to the Council-room, the groups of Abutilons, Cinerarias, and Primulas constituting the most prominent features. The Eruit Committee’s duties were unusually light. Eruit Committee. — Harry J. Veitch, Esq., in the chair. The following members were also present — Messrs. Philip Crowley, S. Lyon, J. Willard, J. Burnett, J. Roberts, W. Denning, Wm. Paul, Arthur Sutton, C. Silverlock, John Lee, George Paul, and R. D. Blackmore. R. Warner, Esq., Broomfield, Chelmsford, sent samples of a new Apple named Warner’s Seedling of flattened form, dull yellow, with a few russet dots ; the eye basin moderately deep and puckered ; the stalk short, with a large protuberance on one side. A first-class cer¬ tificate was awarded for it. Mr. W. Allan, gardener to Lord Suffield, Gunton Park, Norfolk, sent a box of handsome Strawberries, the variety being Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, which well merited the cultural commendation awarded for them. Floral Committee.— G. F. Wilson, Esq., in the chair. The fol¬ lowing members were also present — Messrs. J. T. D. Llewelyn, W. Bealby, H. Ridley, T. Moore, H. Bennett, G. Duffield, H. Eckford, H. Turner, J. James, H. Ballantine, C. Green, J. Wills, H. Cannell, W. B. Kellock, James Hudson, J. Douglas, and H. Ebbage. Votes of thanks were accorded to all the following exhibitors. Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, Swanley, Kent, exhibited a group of well- grown double white Primulas most profusely flowered ; a number of new Cinerarias, some of which were remarkably fine ; and a group of the new Fuchsia Mrs. Rundell, for which a first-class certificate was awarded, and which is described below. Stands of richly coloured Cineraria blooms and double white Primulas were also contributed. Mr. Hill, gardener to Sir N. M. Rothschild, Bart., M.P., Tring Park, Herts, sent flowers of Phalosnopsis Sanderiana, said to be a hybrid between P. Schilleriana and P. amabilis. The flowers are nearly as large as P. grandiflora, white, with a very faint crimson tint in the petals. Mr. George, Putney Heath, had a large and beautiful group of Abutilons, comprising many seedlings of great merit. Some of the best named varieties were Brilliant, bright scarlet, very free ; Lustrous, shining scarlet, good form ; Emperor, deep purple ; Enchantress, rosy pink ; Cloth of Gold, bright clear yellow ; Striatum splendidum, yellow veined with rose ; Purpureum, rich purple ; Future Fame, very dark red, shining surface ; Silver Bell, white with few rose veins, very pretty ; Compactum Vivid, very dwarf, rich scarlet ; Scarlet Gem, similar, smaller flowers ; Compactum Pink Gem, bright pink, dwarf and free. Mr. Waterer, Knap Hill Nurseries, Woking, exhibited a plant of Andromeda japonica, which has long pendulous spikes of small wax-like white bells, the stems being reddish, as also is the calyx. Messrs. Paul & Son, The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt, had a pretty group of Rosa polyantha hybrida, named Parqueritte, which has neat small double pure white flowers that are produced in great abundance. With these were associated Lilacs, Clematises, and small specimens of Staphylea colchica, a useful plant for forcing, as it pro¬ duces its white flowers very freely. Mr. J. Child, gardener to W. J. Bell, Esq., Garbrand Hall, Ewell, showed a collection of very hand¬ some white, purple, and crimson Primulas. The white varieties were uncommonly fine, the flowers large, and the form symmetrical. Mr. H. Eckford, gardener to Dr. Sankey, Boreatton Park, Shrewsbury, sent plants of seedling Primulas — Empress, rich crimson ; Grandeur, bright crimson; and Perfection, pale purplish pink, blooms large and distinct, of fine form. J. T. D. Llewelyn, Esq., sent plants of Primula denticulata, its varieties erosa and cashmeriana for com¬ parison. The species has light blue flowers in a close umbel, cashmeriana being similar, but with deep purplish blue flowers, and the variety erosa has loose umbels of pale lilac flowers. Mr. James of Farnham Royal, Slough, sent a box of very handsome Cineraria blooms, crimson, iiurple, maroon, pink, and blue ; and G. F. Wilson, Esq., Weybridge, contributed a small collection of flowers, com¬ prising Irises, Primulas, and Narcissuses. Mr. H. Bennett, Shepperton, showed some seedling Roses, named William Francis Bennett, a rich crimson Tea, very neat in the bud state ; and Mrs. George Dixon, a Hybrid Perpetual, with bright pink flowers, rather loose, but attractive. Mr. R. H. Vertegans, Chad Valley, Birmingham, exhibited a group of fine double Cinerarias, plants of the elegant Sisymbrium millefolium, and a very large- flowered Cyclamen named giganteum maximum, the petals of which are white, crimson at the base. Mr. R. Dean, Ealing, showed a basket of hardy Primulas of diverse colours, very pretty, and fine blooms of Doronicum austriacum, an earlv-flowering yellow Composite, useful for cutting. Mr. Todman, gardener to J. Connell, Esq., Bushey Down, Tooting Common, for Azaleas Duke and Duchess of Albany and cut blooms of seedling pink and white Azaleas. Mr. A. Waterer, Knap Hill, Woking, Surrey, was awarded a medal for a large col¬ lection of hardy Primroses of many colours, white, yellow, crimson, maroon, purple, and magenta. A pan of Lachenalia Nelsoni was sent from the Society’s Chiswick Gardens ; about thirty spikes were expanded, the flowers being large and bright yellow. A fine speci¬ men of Imantophyllum miniatum superbum was also sent, bearing six large trusses of rich orange-scarlet flowers. First-class certificates were awarded to the following plants : — Amaryllis George Gordon (Veitch). — Very neat and distinct ; flowers bright scarlet, with a central band of white on each petal. Amaryllis A. F. Barron (Veitch). — Flower deep rich scarlet, the petals broad and slightly reflexed. A vigorous variety, bearing four flowers in a head. Amaryllis Dr. Hogg (Veitch). — A handsome variety. Extremely dark scarlet-crimson, centre white, petals broad. Dendrobium nobile var. nobilius (Salter). — A magnificent variety, distinguished by the great size of the flowers, which have rich purple sepals and petals, the lip being tipped with a similar shade. Dendrobium Wardianum var. Waddellianum (Mr. Ward, gardener to G. Waddell, Esq., Stony Stratford). — A white variety of this well- known species, which is similar to one grown under the name of album. A well-flowered plant of the species was also shown, and a vote of thanks was awarded for it. Pescalorea l.ehmanni (Pollett). — Flower very large, the sepals and petals elliptical, white, veined and striped with deep violet-purple. Zygopetalum crinitum var. giganteum (Pollett). — Flowers much larger than the ordinary form ; the lip white veined with purple, and the greenish sepals and petals blotched with chocolate. Azalea Deutche Pearle (Turner). — A handsome double white variety ; the blooms large, full, and the petals beautifully rounded. Cineraria Captain Edivards (James). — Flowers of great size and excellent form ; broad rounded florets, very bright crimson, and white at the base, forming a central ring. Cineraria Colonel Clarke (James). — Flower of wonderful size, about 2^ inches in diameter, very rich crimson, of fine velvety surface, the florets overlapping. Fuchsia Mrs. liundell (Cannell). — A distinct variety, with large elliptical leaves coarsely serrated, the flowers being large ; the tubes March 15. i«»3. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 221 - inches long, white, with a reddish tinge, and large bright scarlet corollas ; the petals rounded and closely imbricated. Scientific Committee. — Sir J. D. Hooker in the chair. Titlipa Chisiana. — Dr. M. Foster made some remarks on the east¬ ward extension of this species, stating that it had been found in South Persia, further east than had been recorded. Lachenalia Nel&oni. — He also exhibited flowering spikes of a Lache- nalia named aurea x rosea, which appeared to be the same as L. Nelsoni. It had a red rim to the edges of the petals, and some features resembling L. tricolor. What “rosea” referred to appeared doubtful. ^ Frost at Lamorran.— The Hon. and Rev. J. T. Boscawen stated that the frost last Friday was 12° Fahr. in a valley, the thermometer being on the ground and fully exposed. It was 10° of frost less on the higher and more open country. Mr. Loder said he had recorded — 3° on the same night at Weedon, at an altitude of 300 feet above the sea. . Potato Disease. — Dr. Masters read a portion of a paper on this sub¬ ject forwarded to him by Mr. A. Stephen Wilson, and having special reference to the “sclerotia” which Mr. Wilson had discovered in nearly all the organs of the adult plant as well as in the seedlings and tubers. The sclerotia are supposed to germinate and lie in a state of incubation in the haulm ; ultimately they give rise to the conidial threads. The conidia form according to circumstances either (1) zoospora, (2) plasm granules, or (3) secondary conidia. These are succeeded by oospores and a non-parasitic mycelium, from which latter, as it creeps through the soil, are thrown out “ floats ” and specks of the seminal plasm. The seed tuber comes into contact with the plasm in the soil, it is absorbed and becomes developed in the shape of sclerotia, and thus the life cycle is completed. From the tuber or seed to the conidia is the parasitic arc; from the conidia to the tuber is the non-parasitic arc. The author illustrates his position by what happens in the case of cereals, wherein the plasm, say of must or rust, is absorbed by the cells of the scutellum or cotyledon, passes through a period of gestation, and then germinates. Mr. G. Murray observed that a microscopical examination of certain speci¬ mens did not clearly reveal any organic connection between the sclerotia and the Peronospora mycelium, and he thought that possibly they might prove to be glandular bodies of some kind belonging to the Potato itself. Moreover, they could not be true sclerotia in the fungoid sense, as the latter are a compact mycelium. Plants Exhibited. — A hybrid between Carica cundinamarcensis and C. erythrocarpa. Fruit and foliage of this plant were brought by Mr. Green, gardener to Sir G. Macleay. He observes that the fruit of this species is borne all the way down the stem, and is much smaller than that of C. Papaya, the “ Papavv tree ” of tropical America, which is borne in a cluster at the summit of the tree. The fruit was devoid of seeds. Retinospora pisifera and It. plumosa. — Mr. Noble contributed a specimen showing the foliage of these two supposed species on one and the same plant. Juniperus chinensis. — Mr. Noble also sent a male spray taken from a female tree, growing from an altitude of 14 feet from the base of the latter kind. Garrya elliptica grafted on Aucuba japonica. — He also sent a young plant showing the two together. Mr. Henslow remarked how this was an instance where physiological affinity corroborated morpho¬ logical, in that while Endlicher placed Garrya between the Hop and Plane tree, Bentham and Hooker assigned its position next to Aucuba ; but the discovery of its power of grafting on Aucuba was a purely accidental attempt by a gardener in Mr. Veitch’s nurseries. Primula “ Miss Eckford,” exhibited by the gardener of Dr. Sankey of Shrewsbury, was a curious instance of an attempt at dialysis of the petals, which were very deeply cleft, somewhat in imitation of the Ragged Rubin ( Lychnis Flos-cuculi). Primula sinensis, Seedling.— A supposed hybrid between Auricula and Primula was sent by Mr. Roberts of Rose Hill House, Ipswich. The pedicels and calyx were of a pinkish hue, the corollas white, but with no trace of “ mealiness,” the foliage closely resembling an ordinary P. sinensis. Primula denticulata. — Six very fine varieties of this species from Nepaul were sent by Mr. J. T. D. Llewelyn.— (Hot. Mag. 3951)) Phajus maculatus. — Mr. Boscawen exhibited a fine spike of this Orchid, which he described as being nearly hardy. Lectuue. — Dr. M. T. Masters in the chair. Mr. Henslow first called attention to a fine collection of Primulas of the Polyanthus type exhibited by Mr. Waterer, as well as a collection of finely flowered double white ones by Mr. Cannell, and a series of six varie¬ ties of the Nepaul Primrose sent by Mr. Llewelyn. It was at one time thought that the common Primrose, which has given rise to so many excellent types under cultivation, was the same species as the Cowslip, the probable origin of all our older Polyanthuses, and that the Oxlip is a hybrid between them ; but Mr. Darwin was inclined to think them distinct, as their habit of growth and time of flowering do not agree, as well as that they differ in the details of their flowers. The fine Polyanthus forms exhibited by Messrs. Waterer, Dean, Ac., however, all result from various crossings of Primula vulgaris (the Primrose), the usual flowers of which — though apparently growing singly from the rootstock — really rise from an abbreviated peduncle, which elongates under cultivation. The P. nepalensis is very like our English P. farinosa of Yorkshire, and this again closely re¬ sembles P. magellanica of the extreme point of South America. It was originally introduced by Mr. Veitch, and is figured in the “Botanical Magazine” for 1842, plate 3959. The double forms of Primula are acquired in the usual way of conversion of stamens into petals ; but the specimem showed a tendency to “ dialysis,” or sepa¬ ration of its petals. This is not unknown to take place in Campa¬ nulas, Convolvulus. He then compared this process of “doubling” with the hose-in-hose variety of Azalea, the normal condition of Canna with several stamens more or less “ petaloid,” and Cineraria, where the result arose from the change of form of tubular flowers into strap-shaped. Sisymbrium millefolium , a European species with finely divided leaves, suggested remarks upon an allied species, S. Irio, or London Rocket, which appeared suddenly after the burning of London, and in the Oxford Botanic Garden after burning weeds, Ac. It was suggested by Dr. M. T. Masters that it might be specially due to the increase of the quantity of potash and other salts, which stimulated the dormant seeds into life, similar results arising after burning forests in America. Lilacs. — Mr. Henslow alluded to the practice of forcing coloured Lilacs in the dark to develope udiite-flowered sprays, and remarked on M. Bert’s experiments with plants grown in high latitudes, and which bore more brilliantly coloured flowers than when grown in the neigh¬ bourhood of Paris, the colour not depending directly on light, but on the supply of nutriment supplied by means of the foliage. Hence Hyacinths and Crocuses will bear blossoms of their normal colour in the dark, but the Lilac, not having sufficient nutriment in store, cannot perfect the colour when forced in the dark. Mr. Henslow described the Juniperus and Retinospora mentioned in the report of the Scientific Committee, while Dr. Masters added the observation that the spinescent form of foliage represented the young state, while the adpressed foliage was characteristic of the adult condition. There was a difference, the microscopical structure of the foliage corresponding with their form, and which seem corre¬ lated to a corresponding difference in the vigour of growth. jjr tip- fry i '* \P.g WORK .FOffTHE W E E'K, . ' By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments. ] KITCHEN GARDEN. Early Potatoes when producing their shoots above the ground they should be covered lightly with soil. This is a good way to protect them, as where there is a large quarter covering with branches is not practicable. Teas should be earthed up and staked as soon as they are well above ground. Main-crop kinds for June and July should be sown at once. A deep soil and plenty of manure will assist them to withstand the drought and prolong their time of bearing. Broad Beans should be earthed up, and the main crop of these may also be sown. Large pods for exhibition are not to be obtained from crowded plants, but to have the pods 12 inches loDg the plants should be grown singly, or not closer than 3 feet apart. The earthing of autumn-sown Cabbages should now be com¬ pleted. Many do their best to have “new Cabbage ” by Easter, but general crops will hardly be in by that time this spring. Backward plants, however, may be brought rapidly forward by shaking a small handful of nitrate of soda around the stem of each. This is a quick-working stimulant for all vegetables. Radish seed should be sown fortnightly in small quantities. Small seeds generally may now be sown. Good soil and a sunny sheltered spot has advantages for them at all seasons. In February last the ordinary seed-sowing was so retarded that we had two or three dozen protectors made in the form of small boxes 18 inches square, fi inches deep, and without top or bottom. These were placed between the Potato mounds at the bottom of a south wall, and after placing fine dry soil in them to the depth of 3 inches, we sowed our Lettuce, Cauliflower, Leek, Parsley, and other seeds in them with good results, as we never had a finer lot of young plants at this season than we have now in these little cheap protectors. Besides affording shelter to the young plants they proved a barrier to the slugs and snails. Now we are sowing again in these boxes, and the plan might be generally practised with advantage in the spring months. All Broccolis, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, &c., should be cleared off the ground as soon as they cease to be of use. Manure or lime the ground according to requirements, and dig and plant with Potatoes. Having the rows 3 feet apart, and filling up between them by-and-by with autumn or winter greens, is 222 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March is, isss. a profitable way of dealing with such things. Double-cropping should be practised on every possible occasion. Herbs are in constant demand in every kitchen, and a regular supply should be secured in every garden. Fresh stock can easily be raised from seed, but it is yet too early to deal with this ; only old plants should be attended to now. Any which have been wintered under a heavy mulching of manure should have this removed, and part or the whole of it forked in between the rows. Old growths which arc never likely to be of much service should be cut back close to the ground, that fresh shoots may push from the bottom. This applies to Sage and Thyme in particular. Mint if top-dressed in autumn may be allowed to sprout through this, but where it had no manure in autumn a layer about 2 inches thick should be spread over the surface now. Spring-sown Cucumbers under glass are now in a fruitful state, and require constant attention in training and stopping — super¬ fluous wood or leaves should never be tolerated. Thinly trained short-jointed growths are the most fruitful. All fruits are cut off immediately they gain their full size : attention to this is the only way to secure a long succession of fruits. Tomatoes are showing bloom, and as all the early varieties are fruited in pots they have been transferred into 10-inch pots. Loam in a very rough state with two or three handfuls of old Mushroom manure and one handful of Thomson’s Vine manure is the compost we use for fruiting them in. Large quantities of Kidney Bean seed should now be sown in pots. Give those in fruit plenty of heat and moisture ; syringe frequently to prevent the introduction or increase of insects. Make up Mushroom beds in cool sheds ; they succeed much better in such positions than in warm houses. If beds in which the crop is declining are watered thoroughly with water at 90° a new and vigorous crop will soon follow. FRUIT-FORCING. Figs. — The earliest crop of Figs on trees in pots will have com¬ pleted their first swelling, and it will be necessary to attend carefully in supplying water, affording liquid manure daily a few degrees warmer than the temperature of the house, as if the pots are properly drained the Fig at this stage will take great quan¬ tities without injury, and if allowed insufficient water the proba¬ bility is that most, if not all, the most forward fruits will fall just when they should be taking their last swelling. If the trees are in good condition the roots will have found their way through the top-dressing, and if the trees carrying a heavy crop large pieces of turf may be laid grass side downwards on the surface of the soil, into which the roots will soon pass, and the fruit will be much improved in size and quality. The day and night tempera¬ ture should not be increased until the fruit commences growing, when a few degrees’ advance may be allowed. Syringe the foliage well twice on fine days, damping the floors and walls, and close sufficiently early for the temperature to rise up to 80° from sun heat. Ventilation will require careful attention, especially after a dull period ; a sudden change to bright weather will necessitate early ventilation in order to prevent the leaves being scorched. Trees that are planted out will require to have the growths regulated, tied, and stopped as growth proceeds, stopping the side shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf, laying in full length terminal shoots until they have filled the allotted space. Syringe well twice a day, damping the paths, and at closing time mulch and water the borders, encouraging a sturdy growth as the best means of securing fruitfulness and keeping down red spider. Vines. — Late Vines must be started forthwith, and those that have been started will need gentle fire heat to keep them gently growing. In the case of vigorous young canes not inclined to break regularly they should be brought down to a horizontal position to prevent a rush of sap to the terminal bud until all the eyes have broken, when they may be tied up to the wires. Syringe twice a day, ventilate a little at 70°, and encourage free growth by closing with a humid atmosphere at a temperature of 75°. Disbudding, tying, and stopping in succession houses must be followed up promptly, and do not neglect thinning the bunches and berries. Maintain a circulation of dry warm air where Grapes are setting, but avoid currents of cold air. If the bunches do not develope well, having a tendency to run into tendrils — a sure symptom of imperfectly ripened wood — increase the temperature and reduce the moisture. Shake the Vines to liberate the pollen, which will be sufficient for most sorts, but Muscats, Black Alicante, Lady Downe’s, and other indifferent setters should have a camel’s-hair brush passed over them, using pollen from Black Hamburghs, performing the operation about midday on fine days. The fermenting material should be removed from the inside borders of vineries in which Grapes will soon be commencing colouring, giving the borders a thorough soaking with tepid liquid manure, when a mulching with short manure will keep the roots active near the surface, and prevent evaporation. Vines in pots swelling off crops of fruits will need feeding liberally with tepid liquid manure, removing the top¬ dressing as necessary. Pot young Vines from eyes or cut-backs, keeping them close and moist for a few days, but avoid coddling, as when they have taken to the new soil they must have full exposure to light and air. Compost for new Vine borders should now be prepared, using the soil in a rough open state, making narrow borders, and increase the space as the roots extend. The roots after planting should be kept near the surface by mulchings of short dung, frequently sprinkled with water at a temperature of 90°, encouraging growth by keeping the house close for a few days, and shading if the weather be bright. Tomatoes. — These of late years have been extensively cultivated under glass, by which means they have been brought to great perfection, and so much esteemed are the fruits as an esculent that in many places it has become a necessity to provide them fresh throughout the year. This may be effected by sowings made early in February, April, and September, and the management in each instance is similar — viz., when the seedling plants are moderately strong they are placed in 3-inch pots, being trans¬ ferred from those to 6-inch pots, and from these into the fruiting pots — i e., 12-inch, using in the latter case a compost of two-thirds friable loam and one-third decayed manure, with a little grit to keep the soil open. In potting provision should be made for top- dressing, leaving a space in the pots of about 3 inches. Surface roots abound in these plants, which should be encouraged by applying a dressing at intervals of decayed manure, with a few lumps of loam added. The plants will do in a house having a temperature of 55° to 60° at night, and where they can have sun¬ shine to the fullest extent. The plants should be allowed to run with one main stem, allowed to run according to circumstances, or to an extent of about 6 feet, from which all side shoots should be removed, and the fruit when too thickly placed may be thinned. An important matter in the after treatment is to keep the plants liberally supplied with weak liquid manure. Syringing should not be practised after the fruit is half grown. There is now some admirable varieties. We find Orangefield Dwarf, Trentham Early Fillbasket, Hathaway’s Excelsior, and Vick’s Criterion admirable in every respect. FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 2 he Hardy Fernery. — As Ferns are fast starting into growth any alterations and propagation by division should no longer be deferred. When forming a fernery regard should be paid to the n quirements of each species. For instance, the Athyriums, which comprise many handsome varieties, thrive best in a damp shady position, and in a mixture of loam and peat or leaf soil. Asple- niums should have a lighter and less damp position, though not much exposed to strong sunshine. Blechnums in similar soil will succeed in an exposed position, and so also will the varieties of Lastrea Filix-mas, but Lastrea dilatata varieties require shade. Cystopteris fragilis varieties delight in a shady position and a dry stony root run. Osmunda regalis should be planted in a cool moist position and in strong loam and peat. Polypodium alpestre varieties, P. dryopteris, and P. calcareum should have a moderately cool position, and loam and leaf soil or peat. The varieties of the common Polypody (P. vulgare) will grow freely in an exposed position, and will spread rapidly over a heap of stony soil, roots, or mossy stones. Polystichum aculeatum proliferum and P. an- gulare varieties bear a moderate amount of exposure, but not ex¬ cessive moisture ; a rich stony soil suits them. Scolopendrium vulgare varieties will thrive either in the open or partially shaded, and should have a good soil and pflenty of moisture when grow¬ ing. Regard should also be paid to the heights of each species and variety ; but as they are many in number and vary consider¬ ably, recourse for further information must be had to a good catalogue or work on the subject. Various. — Part of the stock of Gladioli ought at once to be planted, and the remainder, in order to secure a succession, at the end of March or early in April. A few corms may be potted singly, started in a moderately warm structure, and planted out early in May, and these throwing up spikes earlier will still further lengthen the display. Rich deeply dug soil suits them, and the corms or bulbs should have a little sand about them, and be covered to a depth of 2 inches. Ranunculus and Anemone tubers ought not to be kept out of the ground any longer. Plant in a rich loamy soil, the former about 6 inches apart, and the latter •l inches apart each way. A little sand should be about each tuber. Pentstemons struck and wintered in handlights or frames may now be finally planted, especially if crowded ; so also may herbaceous Phloxes. Cuttings of the latter with or without heels will strike in a gentle heat and flower this season. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 15, 1883 ] 223 ON BUYING HIVES. Though the seasons of late years have been very unfavourable for honey-gathering, the interest taken in bee-keeping has greatly increased in England, and every year the ranks of apiarians are enlarged by recruits chiefly from the better classes of society. Many working men, too, have made an attempt in bee-keeping ; but owing to the seasons and circumstances of trade being adverse at the time some were discouraged in their endeavour. It is known that many of the working classes long to have bees in their gardens, and doubtless if we have a honey season or two their desire for bees will be intensified, and bee-keepers will be multi plied. Then the pleasures and profits of bee-keeping will be widely real¬ ised, and bees will be considered a source of healthful enjoyment to all apiarians and of support to working people. I know what bees have done and can do in ordinary seasons and summers when fairly well managed. As it is desirable for beginners to com¬ mence bee-keeping with healthy strong hives, they should know something of bees or how to choose good hives before they buy them, or employ someone who does to purchase for them ; or otherwise to go to an honest competent dealer and trust him. The advice so often given — viz., not to buy stocks but swarms only, I do not follow. The reason given for this advice is that bee-keepers sell their worst stocks and keep their best. When I buy bees I buy stocks, not swarms. When men apply to me for stocks I ask them to select the best of all I have. When swarms are asked for I advise the applicants to purchase stocks in prefer¬ ence, and thus have the chance of getting both swarms aud honey the first season. Ladies and gentlemen at a distance who cannot visit my apiary and select hives for themselves generally ask me to do it for them. This, of course, is done, though I prefer or like buyers to choose for themselves. Thus some of my best stocks are sold every year, and sure enough I could have no satisfaction in selling inferior stocks. I am not now advertising bees or stocks of bees, for at present I have none to sell. My object in writing thus is to help beginners. About a fortnight ago I went ten miles to see a gentleman’s garden in this county — the last four miles I had to walk. On passing a cottager’s garden with four hives in it I called to ask what price they would be sold at : 21 s. each for either two or three of them. I agreed to give that price for two of them, and marked two which the cottager thought I would reject. Further on I came to a garden containing six hives — four straw and two bar-framers. I asked the owner what he wanted for the four straw hives. He said, “ You shall have them at any price you name.” “ No, you must price your own goods.” He did so, and I bought them at once, and brought them home yesterday. Though the hives are not first-class, being far inferior to many of my own which I have wintered, they are cheap enough, for we shall make twelve stocks out of the six during the summer, and have them in larger and better hives, and in better condition every way. With the hope of helping inexperienced people in selecting stocks, a few points of excellence may be here mentioned. 1, Size and Appearance of Hive. — Handsome hives everybody likes, for they ornament gardens and please the eye. Large hives are more valuable than small ones, for they hold more bees and honey, and yield larger swarms and harvests of honey. 2, The Combs. — Hives filled with young sweet combs are better, all other things being equal, than those full of old combs, and better too than those not filled with combs. The combs built in spring are often formed of drone cells, and hence hives not filled with combs before autumn have, generally speaking, a super¬ abundance of idle drones to feed during the following summer. But hives not nearly full of young combs are often to be preferred to hives full of old combs. The two hives I selected and bought for 21s. each are not nearly filled with combs, and the two others which I did not buy are full of older combs. 3, Sees. — Numerical strength in stock hives is a point of great importance — greater than any other point in the opinion of ex¬ perienced apiarians who keep bees for profit. Those who make their hives strong with bees in autumn can smile at the dangers and difficulties of winter, and examine their stocks at all times with pleasure and confidence. Two gentlemen from the north of Lancashire called and asked to see my bees a few days ago. I had not examined them or unfastened them from their boards, but I lifted three or four of them in their presence, and found two of them in pretty good condition with bees between every comb ; and one, a sugar-fed stock, wi.h combs to the board in the centre of the hive and all the comb3 covered with bees. This extra strong hive was created in October, and I may venture to say the bees now in full health have lived and enjoyed life all the winter without pollen. During the last fortnight or three weeks while breeding has been going on my bees have had a small barrel of shavings sprinkled with flour placed near them. Hives in April and May with their combs covered with bees, as we found this stock, are within a month of swarming ; but in the colder atmo¬ sphere of February and March brood is not so widely spread, being more difficult to keep warm than it is in April and May : still we believe the hive in question will be quite ready for swarm- ing by the end of April. Early swarms are, generally speaking, the most valuable of all hives, and often outrun all hives that do not reach the swarming point till the middle of June; and the way to get early swarms is to make stocks strong in bees in autumn. Those who buy hives at a distance from home should ascertain and have a warrantry that their combs are well fastened and will not break on the journey, and that ventilation will be properly attended to. From August till April stocks may be purchased and removed with safety. In May and June, when hives are at the swarming point, it is rather risky to remove them. Better buy swarms then, One point which should be considered in buy¬ ing hives is the ages of the queens, youthful ones being the most valuable. The readers of the Journal interested in bees and bee- culture know that I attach great importance to autumn treatment, and believe that when bee-keepers learn by experience the value of strong hives they will alter their mode of management, so as to be able to make every stock hive marked for future work numeri¬ cally strong in autumn. The bees of honey hives given to stock hives in September increase their working powers and value very much. A bar-frame hive or a Pettigrew hive is at least worth 1(L\ more with additional bees than without them. Hives weak in bees in spring have dangers and difficulties to meet. The bees can cover but few eggs, and therefore the patches of brood hatched are very small indeed. The fruit-blossom season passes betore they are ready for work ; indeed, many hives are lost from sheer want of heat or vitality in early spring. The value of hives and selling price vary with their strength. The price of second-rate stocks ranges between 20s. and 30s. each, and first-rate ones both in size and quality range between 30s. and 40s. each. Hives in February and March with only two seams of bees are in danger of dying, and therefore not worth buying. Those with three seams of some size will live and may do well. Those with four seams of bees and two patches of brood are past all danger ; and those which have five and six seams of bees in February and beginning of March are in splendid condition, and likely to give great satisfaction in seasons of honey-gathering. — A. Pettigrew, Bowden. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Native Guano Company, Aylesbury, Bucks. — List of Testimonials. James Hunter, Chester.-— Catalogue of Agricultural Seeds for 1883. Charles Turner, Slough. — Catalogue of Florists1 Flowers for 1883. Edward Gillett, Southwick, Mass., IT.S. America. — Catalogue of North American Perennial Plants. G. Neighbour & Sons, 127, High Holborn. — Catalogue of Improved Bee Hives ( Illustrated ). James Dickson & Sons, 108, Eastgate Street, Chester.— Catalogue of Farm Seeds. Samuel Yates, 1G and 18, Old Millgate, Manchester.— Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds. George Templeton, Prestwick. — Catalogue of Florists’ Flowers. Dickson & Robinson, 12, Old Millgate, Manchester.— Catalogue of Farm Seeds. William Paul & Son, Paisley. — Catalogue of Florists’ Placers. %* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 224 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDEXER. [ March is, is? 3. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Books ( Subscriber ). — We stated last week that the price of Mr. Barron's book, “ Vines and Vine Culture,” is 10.?., post free 10.!. 6 d. The size is demy 8vo, or perhaps it will be more intelligible to you to say that it is about inches long, G inches wide, and an inch thick. It contains 210 pages, divided into twenty-four chapters, and is illustrated by thirty plates on tinted paper, and forty-eight engravings. It is a very handsome volume. Blood Manure (C. B.). — We are obliged by your letter. Experiments are being made and inquiries instituted on the matter. Poetry (C. T.). — Your “ rugged rhyme ” had we think better not be printed. We are sorry to say that the gentleman to whom you refer, owing to failing health, has been compelled to rest awhile from all public duties and active mental or physical exercise. Growing Lily of the Valley (.7. B. IF.).— In our issue of February 8th of the present year we published an article on the subject on which you desire information. That article we presume you did not read. You had better peruse it carefully, and then if you desire any further information write to us again. There is no reason whatever that crowns should not be grown as well in this country as in German}', indeed they are so grown by some cultivators. Climbers for a Cool Conservatory (P. (?.).— You do not state the size of your house, or whether you require plants of strong habit or otherwise. The following, however, will probably suit you— Lapageria rosea and alba, Cle¬ matis indivisa, Passiflora caeruleo-racemosa, Rhodochiton volubile, Loniccra sempervirens, and Oestrum aurantiacum. Dwarf Plants for a Grave (J. S., Carnie). — Snowdrops, Scilla amcena, Crocuses, Daisies, Alpine Auriculas, Primroses, Violets, Arabis albida, Aubrietias, Violas, Pansies, Saxifragas Wallacei and muscoides, Lithospermum prostratum, and autumn Crocuses are all of dwarf habit, and some of them would be in flower during the greater part of the year. Pruning Roses (A. M. B.). — You appear to have pruned your Roses cor¬ rectly, and if they arc established, not newly planted, and fairly strong, you may safely leave them as they are, otherwise we should prune them to two or three buds, according to their strength, on whatever stocks they may be grown. Gladiolus Brenclileyensis (Idem). — It is one of the most hardy, useful and effective for massing of all. For flowering with Anemone japonica alba the corms should not be planted till the middle of April, surrounding them with sand, and covering about 4 inches deep. They should not be placed in imme¬ diate contact with manure. Lobelia cardinalis is a splendid plant for producing spikes of brilliant flowers in the autumn. Tobacco Water ( Constant Reader). — Tobacco liquor is sold by chemists, and to a gallon of it 6 gallons of water should be added before using. If. how¬ ever, you have any difficulty in obtaining the liquor, you may make your own tobacco water by pouring half a gallon of boiling water on an ounce of strong shag tobacco, allowing it to remain until cold ; then strain it, and use as required. Insuring Glass Structures (T. S., Prescot). — Greenhouses, we believe, are insured by nearly all established offices in which property is insured. We do not know of any office in which the business is confined to the insurance of glass structures. Odontoglos8um Pescatorei and O. Alexandras (J. TF.).— Some of the varieties of these are very much alike, but you can readily distinguish them by the former having more rounded entire sepals and petals, while the petals of O. Alexandras are usually slightly and sometimes very deeply cut. The flower of O. Pescatorei, too, is seldom so much blotched or spotted as 0. Alexandra.', except in the case of 0. Pescatorei Veitchii, which is one of the most distinct varieties in cultivation. Double Richardia (.1. IF. /?.). — We presume this is the plant you mean and if you grow it well you may expect it to produce double spathes next year The variegated-leaved plant is Abutilon vexillarium. The green leaf you have sent is of Pittosporum undulatum, a greenhouse plant with greenish white flowers. It is a native of New South Wales, and was introduced in 1879. Gloire de Dijon Rose not Expanding (A. B., Paisley).— Judging by the thin and pale footstalk we think your plant is the reverse of vigorous. The root-action is either defective or you do not afford the plant adequate support. It was evidently overcropped with flowers last year, and consequently the growth was not matured. You had better remove the weaker buds and supply the plant with soot water or other liquid manure. Possibly also it might be advisable to remove some of the surface soil and add fresh compost, good loam mixed with bonemeal or manure for inciting fresh root-action. A greenhouse will be quite warm enough for the plant. A high temperature would aggravate the evil. Azolla caroliniensis (X. Y. Z.). — The plant concerning which you re¬ quire information is related to the Jungermannias and Salvinias. It is a diminu¬ tive aquatic, with small, dark green, closely imbricating leaves. It is a native of many parts of the world, both temperate and subtropical, and under cultiva¬ tion either in a cool or warm house. The plants require little attention, except removing conferva: or any stagnant vegetation. In the autumn a few plants are usually placed upon damp soil to yield a supply for the next season, and if the plants are grown in a shallow pan it will only be necessary to drain the water from them. The last edition of the “ Cottage Gardener’s Dictionary ” will no doubt suit you; it gives the names of plants introduced before 1880. This work can be had from this office, price 7s. 6 d., or post free 8s. 3d. Bunches of Chrysanthemums (Exhibitor).— Vie have referred to the article in the paper to which you direct our attention, and find that the “foggy quotation ” has been taken from our columns without acknowledgment. It is n it a “foggy ” case at all, but every word has been transcribed from page 573, yol. iii., of this Journal, the issue of December 22nd, 1881. We do not, however, join in your accusation of “ F. W. B.,” than whom we know of no writer more honest, and he certainly has no occasion to display any weakness by masking the authorities from whom he quotes. We are satisfied that the non-acknow¬ ledgment of the abstracted paragraph was either a pure accident on his part, or it is due to a cause which he had not an opportunity to control in its pre¬ paration for the press. Vine Management (J. T. S.). — Your explanation relative to the shortness of the rods is very convincing. You might if you choose take them down the other side, and let them take root in the soil the same as Mr. Wildsruitk has done at Heckfield (see p 431, November 9th, 1882). Until the Vines break n tempera¬ ture of 50° to 55° by fire heat will suffice ; after they have grown a few inches increase the heat by 5°. When flowering and onwards the temperature may be 60° when you enter the house early in the morning, by fire heat alone in the day¬ time 65°, by sun heat 80° to 85°, closing the house in the afternoon early, so as to maintain the maximum temperature as long as possible, damping the house at the time of closing. In the morning open the top ventilators slightlv at 65°, again at 70°, and so on as the sun increases the heat, and reduce similarly the ventilation in the afternoon. At the present time you may syringe the Vines twice a day until they ate growing freely, after which time you can afford sufficient moisture by damping the house occasionally, according to the weather. If you give the Aloe tepid liquid manure it will probably push fresh growth from the stem. Ornamental Grasses (J. E. 0.).— None of the Grasses named require heat. You may either sow the seeds thinly in 3 or 4-inch pots and place in a cold frame, or sow in the open ground, covering them very lightly with fine soil. If you sow in pots the end of the present month will be soon enough, as the young plants require all the air and light possible, and hence the lights should be re¬ moved in fine weather. The seedlings must also be thinned out as soon as possible, and when they are an inch high, sturdy and hardy, may be turned out of the pots and planted without disturbing the soil. For sowing in the open ground choose fine weather in April. Briza xiaxima is very ornamental and has long been grown in gardens. The earliest writer who mentions it as grown in this country is Gerarde. He says it was then called “ Pearl Grass and Garden Quakers, growing naturally in some parts of Spain, and it is sown yearly in many of our English gardens.” The term Quaking Grass has reference to the spikelets, which are in constant motion, being agitated by the slightest current of air, owing to their size, and the extreme delicacy and length of their stalks. Parkinson, who wrote a few years later than Gerarde, says this Grass was given to him by Clusius, the botanist, under the name of the “ elegant Grass with Hop-like heads ” (Gramen elegans lupuli glumis), a very descriptive title, and, March 15, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 225 adds Parkinson, “ It is now-a-days among our gentlewomen much esteemed to wear on their heads or arms, as they would do any fine flower or pretty toy to behold, as also to put into wreaths and garlands that the country people make for their sports and pastimes.” Bay, writing some time later, says that when he sowed it in the spring it produced its flower-heads in August, but if he sowed it in the autumn they were produced in spring. He found it growing wild near Messina in Sicily, and it is also a native of Italy and other parts of southern Europe. It flourishes in any moderately fertile loamy garden soil, and may be sown at either of the seasons mentioned by ltay. The seedlings from the autumn sowing are sometimes destroyed by severe winters. Pelargonium Leaves Spotted (Rev. E. F. C.). — Without knowing any¬ thing about the ape of the plant, nor the conditions under which it is grown, we can only repeat a reply we gave to a correspondent a few weeks ago, that the cause of the disease is not known. It is indicative of some inherent weakness in the plant, induced, probably, by defective root-action at some time. Possibly the roots of your specimen are not in a very active state now. The best method of treatment is to cut the plant pretty closely down, and it is just possible the sub¬ sequent growths may be healthy. If they are not prepare the plant for the open air, and in due time plant it out in good soil and a sunny position. If this does not cure it nothing will, and it will be advisable to destroy it. We never propagate from plants similarly affected. Calyx, of Rose becoming Foliaceous ( A.JJ.J. ). — The phenomenon of which you Eend us an example is by no means uncommon in Roses and many other plants, and indicates what botanists term reversion. The calyx, corolla, stamens, and pistil are all regarded as leaves altered to perform special functions, and under cultivation we frequently see instances exemplifying this. Thus stamens become petal-like, sepals also become coloured and assume the appear¬ ance of petals, and they all occasionally revert to the original foliaceous state. In some cases transitions may be traced from leaves to bracts, sepals, petals, and stamens, each series becoming gradually merged in the other. In the case of cultivated plants, such as the Bose you sent, this alteration of form is generally due to luxuriance of growth, but some varieties are more subject jo it than others. Orchid Sales (Amateur). — The object of the auctioneer in the matter you mention is doubtless to economise time, as the greater the number of lots the longer is the duration of the sale, particularly when the competition is at all keen. If the “ lumping ” system were not adopted it would often be impossible to conclude the sale within the day. Of course it is in a measure dis¬ advantageous to amateurs who are desirous of purchasing small lots, but these also are often offered, and you could then readily obtain what you require. It is, however, preferable for an amateur who does not wish to expend much money upon Orchids, with the risk of uncertain results, to purchase established plants from nurserymen, as they can be then had true to name, and will cause less trouble in subsequent culture. It is quite impossible to guarantee the names of the imported Orchids sold until they have been flowered, and this the nurserymen do at their own risk. Various (F. J.). — The manure is practically inodorous, and quite so when covered with soil as you propose. Whether it would be wise to use it in your case depends entirely on the state of the Vines and border. If you read" Mr. Taylor’s book carefully you will, we think, find he did not apply the manure to young Vines, but only to Vines that had been established for some years, and had consequently partially exhausted the border. He also states the quantity be uses and the time of its application. The scions of Pears you have obtained will not grow if inserted as cuttings. Clay’s fertiliser is in a great degree soluble, and is valuable as a top-dressing for plants. It is good also for mixing in the compost for certain plants, but this would not be the safest method for you to adopt. You would, perhaps, however, like to try a few experiments, and you may commence by adding a twentieth part of the manure to the compost, mix¬ ing it carefully and uniformly through the entire mass. Polmaise Heating (II -S).— There is a plan showing this method of heat¬ ing in an early issue of the Cottage Gardener, page 258, January 18th, 1857, but the number containing it has been long out of print. If you possess the volume (xvi.) you can refer to it, and you will, we think, find it is no more adapted to heating your house than is the ordinary and better system of a hot- water appa¬ ratus. Where cost is no object we have never seen a structure that could not be heated by hot water ; and if we had a well-executed plan of your house, drawn to scale, showing the paths and borders— in fact, showing everything clearly, we could possibly suggest a mode of heating ; but a rough imperfectly drawn plan, of which we receive so many, is of no use whatever. There is nothing unusual in your Vine eyes ; roots will follow in due course if the turves are kept in a proper state of moisture and a suitable temperature is maintained. Propagating Begonias (II. S.). — Cuttings taken off close to the tubers, the same as those of Dahlias, will strike in a heated propagating case. We should, however, prefer to let the growths advance somewhat, then sever them a few points above the tubers ; the stems would then break again and the parent plants make good specimens, which would not be the case by the above-men¬ tioned plan of taking the cuttings with a portion of the tubers, or very close to it. We did not mean to imply you had been neglectful, as it was quite natural you should not think of cockroaches, which, however, are much addicted to eating ornamental-foliage Begonias. Caterpillars are often very destructive amongst Pelargoniums. They may perhaps eat Begonias also, but we have not known them to do so. We think you have made the plants safe, and your endeavours certainly merit success. We do not know where the compressed moss for stable litter is obtained, perhaps some of our readers can supply the information. Narcissus in Pots (Ayrshire Amateur). — As soon as the flowers fade remove the stems and place the plants in a very light position, either in cool house or a frame, and water them with the same care as usual until the foliage changes. During mild days and sunny weather remove the frame lights. Your object should be to produce good foliage, and keep it fresh as long as possible under the full influence of light nnd air. If the plants are well managed on the lines indicated they will store up matter in the bulbs for the formation of future flowers. They will not equal imported bulbs, but if planted in good w ell-drained soil will become established and increase in numbers, and probably in vigour, year by year. All the Tazettas or Polyanthus varieties do well in pots, also in the open air, as do many others. Not knowing the varieties in your “very large collection” we should in all probability simply repeat them if we gave a list of names. As you are specially interested in these plants you cannot do better than refer to vbl. xxxvi. of this Journal, where you will find much information, w ith figures of typical varieties, on pages 361 and 381 ; also in vol. iv., third series, pages 381, 387, and 407. If you do not happen to possess those volumes the numbers containing the articles can be had from the publisher in return for Ir. 2 d. in stamps, requesting him to send you Nog. 946 and 947, new series, and 98 and 99, third series. Vines in Pots (F. C.).— Growing Vines permanently in pots is rarely indeed profitable, and especially in 9-inch pots. We have seen very good crops on Vines in 15-inch pots, but these you do not appear to have room for, and, besides, with the top-dressing you propose 9-inch pots will suffice for your small canes. Undoubtedly a layer of turfy loam and manure for the pots to stand on would, if kept constantly moist, be of service, and the roots that would form there could, if needed, be cut off: when the Vines were pruned. Remove the weaker of the two buds in every case where twins appear, and remove also the bunches from the cutbacks. It would be well, too, to remove as much of the soil as possible from the pots of these without materially disturbing the roots, and add fresh turfy loam with a tenth part of bonemeal, or, failing this, a fourth of manure, the compost to be pressed firmly in the pots. These growths, only one being left on each Vine, ought to form very fine canes, far superior to those you are now fruiting. You may as well allow a few bunches to remain on these, as, whether you do or not, we do not apprehend they will be of any substantial value another year. They are really too weak to be relied on, though we can quite understand your anxiety to obtain a few bunches. Give them the best treatment you can, both by top-dressing and a bottom layer of rich compost, and they may possibly turn out better than we anticipate. We should insert a few more eyes now. Grow them after being rooted iu 6 or 7-inch pots, ripen the wood well, cut them back in the autumn, shift them in the spring, and in the following summer they would be fine canes ready for taking the place of the present fruiters if these should fail to make vigorous growth. We are obliged by your notes of approval, it is our endeavour to be useful. Hardy Annuals and Herbaceous Plants for Cut Flowers (J. I1.).— 1’erhaps the finest annuals for cutting are Chrysanthemum tricolor vars. — viz., Atrococcineum, carinatum, Burridgeanum, Lord Beaconsfield, W. E. Gladstone, luteum, The Sultan, and veuustum ; Eschscholtzias in variety', Mignonette, Centaurea Cyanus minor, C. Cyanus cierulea, Swreet Teas, Sweet Sultan, purple, w’hitc, and yellow. To these you may add some of the many varieties of Candytuft, Collinsia, and Nasturtium. Of half-hardy annuals, which you may raise in gentle heat, sowing in pans or boxes in the cool vinery, Phlox Drummondi vars., large-flowering Ten-week Stocks, Double Dwarf Scabious vars., Asters, and, if you like them, the French and African Marigolds. Of herbaceous plants Achillea Ptarmica plena, Alstrcemeria aurantinca, A. chilensis, Anemone japonica, A. japonica alba, Anthericum Liliastrum major, Aster Amellus majus, A. multiflorus, A. dumosus, Campanula Hendersoui, Chrysanthemum lacustre, Francoa ramosa, Fuchsia corallina, F. globosa, E’. Thompsoni, Helianthus multiflorus plenus, H. angustifolius. Hyacinthus candicans. Plumbago Larpentm, Polygonum vaccinifolium, Rudbeckia New- manni, Schizostylis coccinea, Sedum spectabile, Senecio pulcher, Spirma filipendula plena. Phlox of the decussata section are fine for late summer flowering, and so are single Dahlias, which you may forward in your cool house, and plant out at the end of May. Carnations frequently bloom until a late period— in the north of England’ often until frost, especially those that are raised from seed. Grapes Setting— Air Roots (E. H).— Your Grapes, judging by the bunch sent, have set admirably, and by the time you read these lines will be ready for thinning. The presence of roots on Vine rods sometimes, but not always, in¬ dicates that the roots in the border are not in such good condition nor working so freely as is desirable ; the production of roots from the stems is also acce¬ lerated by a too moist atmosphere. When we give a reply to a correspondent it applies essentially to his particular case, but not infrequently has a general application. You have not read the reply to which you refer carefully, or at least have not quoled from it correctly. We never mentioned any particular hour, such as “three o'clock,” for closing and damping. We have never managed Vines by clockwork. We said “ very little moisture should be afforded with a declining’ temperature, and no syringing or damping should be done after the sun has left the house.” You had better reduce the atmospheric moisture, and in due time the stem roots will shrivel. Since writing the above we have received the following note from “ Vitis,” which may be appropriately inserted here — “ Various opinions are expressed regarding air roots on Vines. Some maintain they are a sign of ill health and unsuitable condition, others that they are a sign of robust and overflowing strength. I do not intend to try and settle the matter, but simply record my experience. A house w'hich from surrounding and internal circumstances is much shaded and damp, has furnished Vines which display every year air roots in great numbers, and about 9 inches long. The Vines bear well and seem in good health. Other houses in better situations are less troubled, and, indeed, some are almost without air roots on the Vines. This would lead one to suppose that a damp situation, and com¬ paratively' shaded house are conducive to the abundant production of air roots. Certain it is that the Vines are not in bad health, indeed they are remarked upon by all who see them for the way in which they bear, and the style in which they ripen a heavy crop year after year. The ripening is secured by a very liberal use of fire heat combined with judicious ventilation, the fire heat being used in this case more freely than is required in houses more fully ex¬ posed to the sun.” This lecord of experience of a practical and observant cultivator will be useful to yourself and others. Names of Plants (J. Dickson).— Omphalodes verna; J, Erica carnea; 3, Eranthis hyemalis ; 4, Sisyrinchium grandiflorum. (11. Davis).—}, Primula denticulata ; 2, Begonia nitida ; 3, Pteris argyraea ; 5, Adiantum decorum. COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— MARCH 14171. Market quiet, with little to remark. Grapes shorter, with a good demand for first-class samples. VEQBTABbKS. P. d. 8. d. 8. d. f. d 2 0 to 4 0 Lettuce* ... i Otol 6 Asparagus, English bundle 12 0 0 0 Musbroonia i 0 1 < Asparagus. French ouudle 25 0 30 0 Mustard Cress .. punnet 0 2 0 S Beans, Kidney ... 100 2 0 0 0 Onions . 2 s 2 < Beet, Red . dozen 1 0 2 0 Parsley . doz. bunches * 0 4 0 Broccoli . bundle 0 » 1 0 Parsnips . . ., i 0 2 0 Brussels Sprouts. } sieve 1 6 2 0 Peas . . 0 0 0 0 Cabbage . . dozen 0 6 1 0 Potatoes .. . . 0 0 7 e Capsicums . 100 1 6 2 0 Kidney. . . . « 0 * 0 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Radishes.. . . doz. bunches i 0 0 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 2 0 Rhubarb . . . . 0 4 0 0 Celery . bundle 1 0 2 0 Salsafy . l 0 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches s 0 4 0 Scorzo'uera i 8 0 0 o 9 1 g Sealcale .... i 0 2 0 1 0 3 u Shallots .... 0 s 0 0 Fennel . bunch 0 a (J 0 Spinach .... 3 0 0 0 3 0 0 Tomatoes .. 1 6 2 0 Lceka . . bunch 0 a 0 4 Turnips .... e 2 0 3 226 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t March is, im. FROIT. 8. d. 8. d. Apples . 4 sieve 2 0to7 o . . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Apricots . Cherries . Chestnuts . Currants, Black. . „ Red.... Figs . Filberts . Cobs . . . Gooseberries .... doz. 0 0 0 0 $ sieve o o 0 0 bushel 10 0 12 0 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 dozen 00 00 lb. 0 0 0 0 100 tt. 0 0 0 0 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 s. d. s. d Grapes . Ib. 2 0to8 0 Lemons . case 10 0 20 0 Melons . each 0 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 0 0 Oranges . 100 6 0 10 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 10 2 0 dessert . dozen 10 2 0 Pine Apples, English lb. 1 6 2 0 Raspberries . lb. 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .... oz. 0 9 13 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE . * THE POLLED BREEDS OF CATTLE. ( Continued from jmge 207.) When the celebrated Mr. McCombie appeared upon the scene he took up the good work systematically commenced by Hugh Watson. William McCombie carried it on with a skill and success that have few equals, and that will hand down his name to posterity as the chief improver of the polled breed. It might with truth be said that what the Booths have been to “ Red, White, and Roan,” William McCombie was to the “ Glossy blacks.” Than that, higher credit could be given to no breeder of live stock ; and everyone who has any knowledge of the subject will admit that it is due to the memory of the late Laird of Tillyfour. In the space we can afford in this Journal, however, a detailed account of Mr. McCombie’s work as a breeder of polled cattle cannot be attempted. Still, as Tillyfour was regarded the head¬ quarters of improved black polled cattle, and as Mr. McCombie did more than any other man to gain for the breed the world¬ wide reputation it now enjoys, a short statement of the leading features in the history of his herd will probably prove acceptable to our readers. Mr. McCombie was born in 1805 and died in the spring of 1880. He dated the foundation of his polled herd from the year 1832, the first year in which he gained a first prize for a polled animal. This herd, however, was dispersed in 1880. In the interval between 1832 and 1880 lies the history of Mr. McCombie’s mode of breeding and his style and type aimed at by which he improved the black polled cattle, and which insured him an unrivalled career and immense success in the various cattle exhibitions, not only in England but also on the continent, especially in France, where the crowning victory of his life was achieved at the great International Exhibition held at Paris in 1878. On that occasion, in addition to several leading “class” honours, he carried off with a group of beautiful young polled cattle, all bred by himself at Tillyfour, not only the £100 prize for the best group of cattle bred by the exhibitor in the division foreign to France, but also the £100 prize “for the best group of beef-producing animals bred by the exhibitor.” To enable him to achieve these unrivalled successes let us refer to the means whereby he obtained them, and make some allusion to his ideal of form and type which he adopted during his career in the animals which he reared. Mr. McCombie claimed that his stock possessed valuable natural pro¬ perties not found to an equal extent in any other race of cattle. While he aimed at developing long, level, thick, deep quarters, he also retained the rounded appearance which was originally one of the dominant characteristics of the breed. As the polled Angus cattle are more prized for the production of beef, and at the earliest age, than for their milking capacity, we will give a description of the best polled Aberdeen and Angus cattle, as stated by Mr. G. Walker in a paper which he read before Kincardineshire Farmers’ Club in 1872. The colour is, of course, “ black, and all black if possible.” The points required in a bull are as follows : — “ Head neatly put on, clean throat and fine muzzle, not over long ’twixt the eye and the nose, eye bright and prominent, ear moderately sized, good breadth betwixt the eyes, and poll high ; neck a good length and clean, a little but not over¬ full on the top ; chest full and deep ; legs short, but not so as to give the animal a dumpy appearance; bone clean and free from coarseness ; shoulders not too full, and top free from sharpness, but not over-broad ; back level and straight ; ribs well sprung ; deep barrel ; well ribbed down towards hook ; full behind shoulder ; hooks level, but not too broad, and well and evenly fleshed to tail ; twist full and long, and well fleshed down, but not protruding behind ; tail of moderate thickness, and hanging straight ; hair soft and plentiful ; skin of moderate thickness and mellow to the touch ; body fully developed, and the animal when in motion to have a blood-like look and style about him. A cow should differ from a bull in the head in having, instead of a broad masculine¬ looking head, a neat feminine-looking one. The ear should be also of good size, with plenty of hair in it ; the neck well put on, clean and straight, and without any prominence on the top or abrupt hollow where it joins the shoulder ; and the top of shoulder sharper than the bull’s, and the shoulders themselves thinner.” In both, however, “ scurs ” — loose horny excrescences on the head — are objectionable. We have been rather particular in de¬ scribing the individualities of form and shape in this breed, because they differ materially in some respects from most other breeds, but especially those valued for their milking capacities. We will now return to the doings of Mr. McCombie, for his famous polled ox in 1867, bred at Tillyfour and exhibited at the Birmingham and Smithfield Shows when four years old, and at both shows made almost a clean sweep of the special honours. At Birmingham he won the £15 and silver medal as the best in his class, the Earl of Powis’s silver cup value £25, four other prizes, and the gold medal for the best steer or ox in the show. At Smithfield he won the first prize and silver medal as the best in his class, and the £10 silver cup for the best steer or ox in the show, and the £20 gold medal to the breeder. The ox was, by the Queen's desire, forwarded to Windsor for Her Majesty’s inspection, and of which Her Majesty expressed great admiration, and was graciously pleased to accept from Mr. McCombie her Christmas baron of beef from the carcass of this fine animal. A year or two afterwards Her Majesty visited Tillyfour, mainly for the purpose of inspecting Mr. McCombie’s celebrated herd of polled cattle, and was interested greatly in the beautiful herd shown at Tillyfour. We may here observe that their superiority over most other breeds from a butcher’s point of view lies chiefly in the excellent quality of their beef and in the high per-centage of dead meat to live weight, and it is well known that they make the highest price per stone in all the principal markets of the kingdom. (To be continued.) WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — Some work, such as rolling the Clovers and carting manures to heap, was continued until the end of February, and March commenced with favourable weather, though it has since changed. If the weather should become fine during the next four or five weeks much sowing and planting will be done. Sowing Beans and Peas should be done first before the land becomes too hard and dry ; Oats come next in rotation, with Barley in due course. If the land had been ploughed early scarify it and sow the seeds; otherwise, wrork down and seed the land daily as fast as it is ploughed. This only will make safe work, and land will work fine as it should do if dry weather continues, for what is right for dry weather as regards til¬ lage must be right if the weather becomes showTery. On the other hand if we sow and wait for rain, without the seed vegetates imme¬ diately, the rain may not come in time, and the land be comparatively barren. We have known seasons when there was not rain enough to vegetate the Barley and Oats until near to and after harvest, and after such a long cycle of wet seasons as we have experienced it may very probably happen again ; at any rate we always recommend that ploughing or scarifying with immediate seeding is the only safe plan, because it is always right if the season proves either dry or wet after¬ wards. Rolling in those meadows and pastures laid up for hay should be done in favourable weather, when the land is firm enough to bear the treading of the horses. Live Stoclc. — This is now a very important matter, for whether the practice is to rear all the lambs (where a breeding flock is kept) for sale, or whether the lambs are usually reared for selling in the early market fat. In the former case the ewes and lambs also may be doing very wrell, and a good average of lambs in number saved, and there is at present plenty of food ; yet if the weather proves dry through April and May a pinch may come, and at these high prices they may be held too long, referring to the lambs. In the case of these on the vale farms and grazing lands the lambs may be held on JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 15, 1833. ] 227 unless they will fetch a high price. We have lately known lambs sold very young at 40s. and 42s. This is folly at present, because they are worth money now according to their weight, and there never was a time that lambs would pay for making heavy weights like the present. We have been so much accustomed to productive summers as regards sheep food, that numbers of young farmers have never encountered the difficulties of maintaining sheep through a season of drought. As, however, cycles of seasons are said to repeat them¬ selves, it will be well now to be prepared for a dry cycle in various ways with regard to cattle management, for correct and foreseeing treatment and provision for cattle in advance for a dry season will always be right for a wet one. PECULIAR REQUIREMENTS OF DIFFERENT POTATOES. Haying for many years taken special interest in the cultivation of the Potato both in the field and in the garden ; having made not a few experiments in their culture, and been instrumental in inducing others with more space to do the same ; and having collected much evidence from farmers personally known to me, as well as having studied outside reports, I was more than usually interested in your Potato election, as well as in the extract from Messrs. Suttons’ pamphlet. I had commenced a paper on the sub¬ ject of the different cultural treatment required by different varie¬ ties of Potatoes, but seeing Messrs. Suttons’ pamphlet advertised in your columns, thought it better to send for it in case the result of my observation had been forestalled, in which case plagiarism might have been imputed. But as what observations I have to offer are perfectly original, so far a3 is known to me, and are of more than usual importance, especially at this time, just when farmers and gardeners are thinking of planting, I hope to help to produce even better results than any mentioned by Messrs. Sutton. Stated shortly it is this : Strong-growing Potatoes, like Scotch Champion, produce better crops, of better quality, when manured with mineral manures only. We have repeatedly proved this in the garden. Scotch Champion, planted on good soil and heavily manured, invariably produces an immense crop of haulm and a miserable crop of tubers, most of which are unfit for use. With no manure the produce has been fair, producing on an average during the last four years about 7b tons per acre. With kainit Pig. 61. — The egg. (See next page.) applied at the rate of 2 cwts. per acre the produce has been fully 10 tons, and with 2 cwts. of superphosphate added the produce has been close on 13 tons gross. We may premise that the soil is very favourable for Potatoes. In the case of Magnum Bonum the results have been better in all cases except the last, but it must be remembered that 1 ton of Magnums are certainly equal to 1£ ton of Champions. When to the mixture above was added 1 cwt. of nitrate of soda the produce of the Champions went down to 9| tons, and the Magnums to ll£; but the experiment wa3 only tried once. With a half-hundredweight of the nitrate the Champions produced at the rate of almost 11 tons, and the Mag¬ nums 13^ tons. These represent gross weights, but as only one- fortieth of the Magnums had to be rejected, and fully one-tenth in the Champions, it requires no more to prove which is by far the more profrable Potato. The produce and the market price will soon decide which is fitted to survive. On the home farm the results were pretty much the same as above, except in the case of those heavily manured with ordinary manure. In this case the produce of both were considerably superior to what was obtained in the garden ; we feel certain because the soil was poorer in nitrogen. Farmer No. 1, to which we will now refer, after trying both, with plenty of manure had very fine crops — of top a, but the bottoms were unsatisfactory. Champion gave 5£ tons of good Potatoes and If ton of utter rubbish ; Magnums fully 8 tons of good and 5 cwt. of bad ; Victorias gave 10 tons under the same conditions, but this was in the favourable year — -in this district — of 1880. Next year only an acre of Magnum and half an acre of Champion were planted. Half of each had a half manuring, half had nothing. Those with a half manuring gave Champions nearly 7 tons of good Potatoes, where no manure was used 7^- tons — an actual excess over the half manured. Magnums, half manured, gave 8f tons ; unmanured 6^ tons. Victoria*, on which he had relied, produced only about 2 J tons of sound tubers, but the disease attacked these very badly. Last year mostly Magnum Bonums were planted, and, with the exception of experimental plots, half manured. Tart was un- manured ; part had 2 cwt. of kainit ; part three ; part four ; part three of kainit and one of superphosphate ; and part had two of each. This experimenting was done on the basis of the Munster trials, which were reviewed in your columns a year ago. Un¬ fortunately I must leave figures now, but in a short letter I am informed that those which had the mixture of superphosphate and kainit in equal parts are “ magnificent — never saw such crops ! The rest of the series are good — indeed, very good ; but the last beat the others. The next best after the half-and-half are those which had 3 cwt. of the potash salts and one of superphosphate.” “ But many have grown good crops with heavy dressings of farmyard manure ?” Yes ; and farmer No. 2 does it, and yet he is a very bad farmer, whereas No. 1 is a most excellent one. How can such facts be reconciled ? This puzzled me, and yet the problem was easily solved. No. 1 collects and prepares all his JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 228 [ March 15, 1883. manure under cover, and moistens it thoroughly with urine. It is never allowed to heat violently ; hence it is rich, very rich, in nitrogen. No. 2 is careless. His manure is collected in the open, where it is spread thinly. When driven out to the fields it is put into large heaps and allowed to heat violently. What soluble nitrogenous matter escapes the washing of the rain is driven off by the heat, hence the manure is poor in nitrogen— “ it is the dead body from which the soul has fled.” Space will hardly permit us going further into details ; but we may say that one successful grower in a neighbouring county ploughs in his manure in autumn, and succeeds much better than when he used an equal amount in spring. The reason is evident ; the ra;ns carry away much of the nitrogen in winter. Another finds that on his land — it is good Wheat land— a mixture of 3 cwt. of kainit, 1 of superphosphate, and half a hundredweight of sul¬ phate of ammonia produce between 12 and 13 tons per acre of Magnums. The same mixture produces 10 of Champions, but when the ammonia is left out nearly 12 tons result. Another gives 6 tons of ordinary manure and 2 cwt. of kainit, and the result is something between 10 and 12 tons of Magnums ; he does not grow Champions. But we must stop. The evidence is overwhelming. Let anyone study the Munster report, and he will see that the application of nitrogen was in all cases worse than useless in the case of strong-growing Potatoes. Even in Messrs. Suttons’ pamphlet evidence of this is found. For instance, Mr. Smith reports a crop of 9 tons at a cost of £1 -is. for manure — “ 6 cwts. at 4,?.” It must have been kainit, as no other is sold at that price. Had Mr. Smith used only 2£ cwts. of kainit, 1 of phosphate, and half only of nitrate of soda, the price would have been about the same ; but the crop would have been, almost without question, heavier by a ton or two. Messrs. Sutton think this gentleman’s estimate of cost too low. We think not. “J. M. J.’s” expenditure of £12 10s. for farmyard manure was followed by the invariable results. Nitrogen causes far too much growth on Potatoes already too strong. Magnum Bonum, being less robust than Champion, is the better with a small amount. Champion had better have none. Whether a little manure and the mineral mixture, or the latter with nitrates or ammonia, be most economical for Magnums, each must determine. But for early kinds, producing moderate haulm, a liberal application of stableyard manure gives the best results. The mineral mixture along with 2 cwts. of sulphate of ammonia we have found a good substitute. Too much growth runs away with all available supplies ; too little fails to provide for the converting of the carbonic acid of the air into Potatoes. Hence the necessity for quite different treatment according to the habit of the variety. The best crop we ever saw of Magnums was raised by a liberal application of wood ashes. Gardeners can take the hint. We cannot agree with Messrs. Sutton about our never being able to have the market in our own hands in May and J une. As Magnum is the best late it is also the best early. Kept cool, airy, and often turned, it is as good in June as in January. We have had it good so late as August ; but in June it is vastly superior as food to the unwholesome watery rubbish from France. As a luxury the inferior Potatoes may continue to be eaten, but since there is a better the demand for French Potatoes will surely decrease when farmers have learnt to make money by keeping this Magnum. Northern farmers should take the hint. In closing special attention is drawn to the remarks by Messrs. Sutton on selection of seed. One grower, indeed, speaks of having so many good Potatoes and so many “good enough for seed.” Only the best are good enough for seed ; inferior tubers produce speedy deterioration. Proper selection and good cultivation will prevent this, hut can do no more. “Improved” Potatoes are often improved the wrong way. This is evident in the Munster report, where Messrs. Suttons’ seed produced more than did “ Improved” Magnum Bonum. But the cultivation is most important. Will all the farmers who read this experiment on a small scale on the lines we have advocated, and next year send reports to the Journal? It is a matter of national importance ; of patriotism as much as profits. In another paper we will show how to restore the land to fertility. —A. H. Permanent Pastures. — The edition of Messrs. J. Carter & Co.’s treatise on “Laying Down Land to Grass for Permanent Pasture ” is now issued, and contains much interesting and instructive matter bearing upon that subject. It is in several sections — preparing, draining, and sowing being fully treated, together with renovating and general management. One very important chapter is that de¬ voted to a consideration of the geological formations of soils, in which the characters of the various districts are considered under the heads of the different soils, such as clays, sand, chalk, and limestone. In this portion of the work is contained a large amount of condensed information. An elaborate descriptive list of the Grasses used in forming permanent pastures, with figures of the most important, is also included, and adds to the utility of the work. THE EGG. The woodcut on page 227 is taken from Le Poussin , M. Lemoine’s new weekly paper. It represents more clearly than we remember to have seen elsewhere the composition of the egg. M. Lemoine has kindly permitted us to reproduce the woodcut for the benefit of our readers. The dark line at the outside represents the shell marked A. Next to this come two membranes or skins marked B and c. The outer one, b, adheres or lies close to the shell throughout. The inner one, C, also follows the line of the shell except at the larger end of the egg, where the two membranes are apart, and form the air vessel, D, Next to the lining membrane, C, is the white. This is in three layers, E, F, and G. In the inner layer of white, G, the yolk is suspended by the chalazas H H. These are spiral springs of more deuse albumen, and extend from the middle layer of white to the membrane of the chalazas, I, which surrounds and almost touches the vitelline membrane, J. This membrane encloses the yolk, which again is composed of an outer layer of white yolk, K, which does not harden even in cooking, and inner concentric layers of yellow and white yolk, a, b, c. The yolk when the egg is perfect is suspended by the chalazas, and floats rather towards the upper part of the egg, as it is less dense than the white. It is curved on all sides round the utricule (latebra), N, at the entrance to which the germ, L, floats close to the vitelline membrane, and not far from the shell. The constituents of the egg are as follows : — The shell is composed of carbonate of lime, phosphate of lime, and gluten. The white consists chiefly of albumen, which chemical analysis has shown to contain carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, azote, phosphorus, and sulphur in varying amounts. The yolk is made up of albuminous matter, organic salts, vitelline colouring matter, phosphoric acid, and a fatty phosphoric substance. The shell is porous, thus admitting a renewed supply of air to the embryo chick, which by process of incubation is produced from the germ and white. Shortly before its exit from the shell the embryo absorbs the yolk which forms a large proportion of its support during the first week of its existence outside the shell. OUR LETTER BOX. Sunflower Culture (C. A. II.). — Notes on the culture of Sunflowers in fields will be published in a future issue in time to be of service to you and other cultivators. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40" N. ; Lons. 0° 8 0” W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. DATE. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. i ?! 03 Hygrome- P . c-g j Shade Tem- Radiation 0 1883. 5 > ter. £ a cL — 1 o perature. Temperature. d P5 March. § k’Si-j In On iaS 3 Dry. Wet. O o r-i Max. Min. snn. grass. Inches. deg. deg. deg. deg deg. deg deg. In. Sun. 4 30.722 37.4 35.8 N.E. 41.0 50.3 30 2 80.8 27.1 — Mon. 5 30.630 341 34.1 N.E. 40.3 54.8 31.3 83.8 25.7 _ Tues. 6 30.205 39.8 35.6 N. 40.7 48 2 33.7 87.5 32.5 _ Wed. 7 30.028 33.0 32.7 N. 39.6 89.5 29.1 86.0 26.4 0.143 Thurs. 8 20.770 30.6 30.4 N.E. 38.5 37.3 25.2 86.8 27.8 0.056 Friday 9 29.993 30.3 30.1 N.E. 37.8 37.8 23.7 83.7 25.1 _ Satur. 10 29.899 28.8 28.0 N.E. 37.4 37.0 23.4 83.9 21.* — 30.179 33.4 32.4 39 3 43.5 28.1 84.6 26.5 0.199 REMARKS. 4th. — Bright cold day. 5th. — Misty early, blight cold day. [wind. 6th. — Sleet at 8 A.M., snow occasionally during the day, with high very cold 7th. — Very cold gusty wind, showers of soft hail and snow. 8th. — Thick snow in early morning, and driving snow showers, with intervals of bright sunshine during the day. 9th. — Very bright and cold. 10th. — Fine and cold. A week of truly wintry weather, the mean temperature lower than in any week for more than a twelvemorth, except the second week in December, 1882, and the mean minimum without parallel during that time. The lowest point reached in the shade, 23'4° on 10th, has been exceeded in March since 1858 only in the following years— 1862, 21-3° ; 1865, 23-2° ; 1866, 22'5° ; and 1874, 21-90.— G. J. Symons. March 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 229 22nd Tn 23rd F Good Friday. 24th S- 25th Sun Easter Sunday. 26th M Bank Holiday. 27th TU Royal Horticultural Society’s Fruit and Floral Committees. 28th W Royal Botanic Society's Spring Show. THINNING GRAPES. forty years have elapsed since was initiated into the art of thinnin i thinning Grapes. My tutor -was a sturdy, hard- headed, hut good-hearted representative of the “old school” of gardeners, who thought as much about wall trees and Onions as he did about Vines, while for “pottering about” among flowers he had a profound contempt. When the bed¬ ding mania came in Lobelias had to be raised in thousands, and occasionally my chief was almost obliged to assist in pricking out the seedlings, but never without, as he said, feeling ashamed of him¬ self, as he was convinced that there was a great waste of force in an able-bodied man weighing 18 stones lifting plants that he could not clearly distinguish without his spectacles. This he regarded as work for the lads, and he held much the same views on the matter of thinning Grapes : hence the “lads,” of whom I wTas one, had an opportunity of engaging in that occupation in early years. At the age of eleven I was often perched on the top of a pair of steps at four o’clock in the morning prac¬ tising ; and the following year I was considered fairly competent — in my own opinion very much so, and was entrusted with the thinning of nearly all the bunches in a range of vineries 120 feet long. How many bunches of Grapes I spoiled I shall never know, but I may venture to assert that there are few individuals who did more damage in this respect before the age of fifteen years than I committed. Rubbing the Grapes with the head, fingering the bunches to get the work over quickly, piercing the berries with the points of the scissors, cutting out those that ought to have remained, and leaving others that ought to have been removed, were common errors and delinquencies, but not the worst by any means. Possibly there may be a solitary reader of these notes unable to imagine any malpractice in the work under notice more serious than those enumerated ; yet there is one, and it appears all the more necessary to point it out, since, although many gardeners must know of it, I do not remember ever to have seen it prominently alluded to in print. I have seen this greater error committed times out of number, and not always by lads alone or young men, but by amateurs, and even gar¬ deners of mature years, in happy ignorance that they wrere acting otherwise than in the most safe and proper manner. In a word, they were complacently satisfied they were doing perfectly right when in reality they were doing what was utterly wrong, and were surprised when the berries did not swell regularly, also that some of them, even who e shoulders, shanked. “Shanking!” does someone soliloquise. “Surely nothing in connection with thinning the bunches in spring can affect the berries injuriously in the summer and autumn.” Bur, there is something that can and does limit their size and impair their quality, and in the case of Vines predisposed to shanking unquestion¬ ably aggravates that evil. What is this something ? It is the very simple and very much too common and thoughtless habit of twisting the stalks and shoulders of bunches for reaching the opposite side instead of shifting the step-ladder or position of the operator. A slight turning of a bunch or portion of a bunch for convenience of thinning may do little or no harm, but twisting violently, as hundreds of bunches are twisted, so as to rupture the sap vessels, is an evil that can never be repaired The shanking of the Grapes in the vineries, where in my early days I thinned the bunches with lad-like recklessness, was grievous. The twisting of the stalks was not by any means the sole cause of the deplorable condition of the fruit ; but rupturing the sap vessels, and consequently obstructing the free supply of food, without doubt intensified the evil. This was not, of course, thought about at the time, and in fact not until some years afterwards, when experiments were made with the object of ascertaining the effects of such a rough process of handling the fruit and twisting the bunches at a time when the tissues of the stem were in a peculiarly tender state. On Vines where there were invariably more or less of shanked Grapes the bunches maltreated in the manner described were always the most seriously affected, and on shoulders that had been purposely violently twisted not one berry ripened, but all shanked. The experi¬ ment, when tried on Vines that produced no shanked fruit, always resulted in irregular-sized berries, some swelling much less freely than others, quite spoiling the appearance of the bunches in comparison with others that had not been injured in the thinning. Twisting the laterals of Vines or fracturing them in tying is bad enough, but the injury resulting from fracturing the stalks of the bunches is more marked. Let anyone observe closely a bunch of Grapes on a lateral that has been rather seriously “cracked” in tying down, and if all the berries swrell with the same freedom and regu¬ larity as those on laterals where there has been no obstruction to the flow of sap it will be little short of a miracle, and will denote that the Vines are remark¬ ably and unusually vigorous ; and still more marvellous will it be if the berries on ruptured bunches swell evenly and become full-sized and regular. Thousands of bunches of Grapes will be thinned every day now for some time. Let great care be exer¬ cised in this important work. Rubbing the fruit with the head or the hand cannot be done without, the effects being seen by the educated eye of the master; punctur¬ ing the berries with the scissors will in a few days be perceptible; but twisting the stems or shoulders of the bunches leaves no immediate marks to arrest attention, yet the man, be he old or young, who permits himself to make such an egregious mistake after he knows the evil of it, is none the less culpable and ought never to be permitted in a vinery. Instead of twisting a bunch to bring its opposite side round to the operator let the man go round the bunch. No. 143.— Vol. VI., Third Series. No 1799 VOL. LXlj:., OLD Series 230 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 22, 1883. Rather than incur the trouble of stepping down and moving a ladder I have in years past spoiled numbers of hunches of Grapes, not knowing at the time that any real injury would result from my hurried work with the scissors and laziness of the limbs. I know it now, and it is because I desire others to know it also that, after a long silence, I pen these lines during the Grape-thinning season, the subject having been brought to my mind by a rebuke that I have been compelled to administer to a man who will have the mortification of seeing a small label with his name attached to the laterals bearing some bunches that he has injured, and which cannot possibly finish satisfactorily. Where a number of young men are employed in thinning Grapes it is advisable as far as possible to let each have a Vine to himself, his name being written on a label and attached to the rod where it cannot be seen except by those wdio know where to find it. Those who do the work in the neatest manner may be trusted to take care that the labels are not shifted ; but the quality of the work cannot be fully tested until the fruit is ripe. — A Northern Gardener. CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES IN BEDS. In my “ salet days,” when George IV. was king, it was a very common practice to grow these beautiful flowers in beds, and some of the best collections I have ever seen were so grown, one especially. I recollect one which was cultivated in almost the very heart of Dublin, in the grounds of the Meath Hospital, whose Secretary, Mr. Shaw, was a very ardent and very successful florist. Here those of us who used to look out for what was new and good used to go to gaze upon beauties which were beyond our reach, but which still we might look upon. How well do I remember the anxiety with which we looked for the opening pods of a variety which is nowhere to be found now, but which the owner of the collection I allude to had paid two guineas to possess — Twickett’s Don John, and how fully we persuaded ourselves it was well worth the money ! Since then I have at various times and in different places endeavoured to grow Carnations in beds, not because I think it the best plan, but it is less expensive and less troublesome. The size of the pots considered necessary for growing them well has been considerably diminished of late years ; but, withal, the expense of pots, the expense of compost, the time taken in potting, all tend to make that method of growing them impossible to many. These same reasons influenced myself for some years ; but there is one very serious drawback to their culture in beds, and that is the layering. It is not quite so easy when fifty is passed to bend the back for this operation ; but when they are grown in pots it is easy to lift the pots on a bench and then layer them. On the other hand, ive get larger growths, as a rule, when the plants are in pots, although this may be considered by some a doubtful advantage. While, then, I think the balance of advantage is clearly on the side of pot culture, especially where there is the advantage of a glass roof under which to bloom them, there is much that may comfort anyone who cannot venture on this in being able to have a bed or two of these sweet and beautiful flowers. It is not advisable, where it can be avoided, to plant in the autumn. I have done so more than once, but a wet season like this, or a very cold one (such as we had two years ago), is very injurious to them ; and therefore, where a cold frame is procurable, it is better to winter them in pots, as if they were to be grown in pots afterwards — i.e., either singly or in pairs. During the winter they will require only to be watered occa¬ sionally, green fly being watched for and destroyed when it makes its appearance, dead leaves removed, and the surface of the soil stirred when it becomes (as it will sometimes) green from the growth of mosses. When the winter is fairly over, say in March, it is then desirable to transfer the plants to the beds, which we will of course suppose to have been prepared in the autumn for their reception ; and if they have been turned up roughly so as to expose them to the action of frost so much the better, as in all such operations a dry day should be chosen, and when the ground is in good order. This is a point which in all gardening operations is essential to success, but which is too often over¬ looked, and indeed sometimes almost impracticable. I have been waiting to plant various things, but it has been impos¬ sible to do so. I have grown mine in beds feet wide : this allows room for four rows of plants, placing them about 10 inches apart and about a foot in the rows. In planting they should be pressed gently into the soil so as to keep them firm, and then a small piece of stick should be put to each plant, to which it should be loosely tied, as nothing is more injurious than for the wind to twist them about, making a hole into which the water pours and so injuring the plant. There is one great enemy of the Carnation and Picotee which should be carefully looked after— the wire worm. One of these is quite equal to destroying the most robust plant, eating into it and ensconcing itself in the pith, and oftentimes when its work is completed then passing on to another. Where plants are grown in pots the compost can be carefully hand-picked and these destroyers killed, but it is not so easy when they are grown in beds. However, they are not so abundant in garden soil as in fresh pasture loam, and therefore when any of this is added to the beds in autumn it should be first carefully examined. As labels are so likely to be shifted and through carelessness or ignorance made useless, I find it to be a good plan, besides placing the label to the plants, to en'er them in a book accord¬ ing to the rows. Thus, first row Zerlina four, Mary two, &c. ; then if the labels are disarranged they can be easily replaced. When the plants spindle for bloom stakes should be placed to each and the flowering stem loosely tied to it, and all other shoots which exhibit the same tendency should be removed. The after treatment is precisely similar to that when they are grown in pots as to disbudding, tying the buds to prevent bursting, &c. ; and all this will depend very materially on the purpose for which they are wanted. If for exhibition, then severe disbudding must be the rule, two or three of the best being left on each plant. When they are grown merely for decoration then this need not be so much done. I have found it best to erect an awning over the beds, as this keeps them from the direct rays of the sun . and they continue longer in flower. Moreover, it is an advantage to be able to draw it over when the process of layering is going on. There is one question which has always been a puzzle to Carnation growers — what occasions them to run ? The older florists, and indeed many modern ones, attribute this to the use of manure, and have recommended growers to plant them in poorer soil than Potatoes are grown in. In my early days one of the most successful growers was Mr. John Puxley, a gentle¬ man of large fortune in South Wales, but who was also the principal owner of a very rich copper mine at Castleton Bere- haven in the county of Cork. His name is still commemorated in our catalogues as being affixed to Jenny Lind, Orestes, Lord Clifton, Illuminator, and others. The plants used to be grown in the pure air of that lovely neighbourhood and in the excellent loam which the limestone range there produced, and there I used to be told that run flowers seldom occurred. It is hardly possible to alter the character of the soil when grown in beds, but is easily managed when grown in pots. Anyone who has a catalogue of the varieties grown twenty years ago, and will compare it with those of the present day, will be struck by two facts. One is that many of the older varieties still hold their own ; the other is, that the last few years have seen a considerable displacement of the older varieties by new ones, especially those which have been raised by Mr. Dodwell, who, returning to their culture after several years’ retirement, has considerably added to the Show varieties. Messrs. Fellowes, Hextall, and others have also contributed sorts which are more vigorous and easily grown than the older varieties. In an article by Mr. Dodwell in 1857 he only enu¬ merates one variety as likely to displace that fine old flower Admiral Curzon in the S.B. class — Mr. Ainsworth, but which is not now in the list, while the Admiral still remains ; but in this very class Mr. Turner, who is by no means inclined to swell his ca alogue with padding, has no fewer than twenty- JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 22, 1883. ] 231 one of Mr. Dodwell’s varieties. So in crimson bizarres, "while several are enumerated which have passed out of date, Lord Milton and Black Diamond maintain their reputation ; but such varieties as Warrior, Hope, Tenby Rival, and Duke of Bedford have been displaced, a dozen of Mr. Dodwell and others of Wood’s Abercrombie, &c., come to the front. Pink and purple bizarres, always a limited class, have had but few additions. Sarah Payne and Falconbridge are still attractive flowers ; but James Taylor, Purity, and a few others claim attention as improved sorts. In scarlet flakes I find but one of those mentioned in 1857 in Mr. Turner’s catalogue now — Comet, while here again Mr. Dodwell has made his mark, seven of his flowers being retained in a list of fifteen varieties. In purple flakes there has been not so much change, and Ascendant, Beauty of Woodhouse, Dr. Foster, Squire Meynell, and Mayor of Nottingham are still amongst the best flowers. In that very lovely class rose flakes a few of the older favourites remain, such as Lovely Ann and Lady Gardiner ; but King John, Flora’s Garland, Lorenzo, Friar Lawrence, and others are now nowhere ; and James Merry weather, John Keet, Sybil, and others, including some of Mr. Dodwell’s, Dr. Vernon, Mrs. Tomes, and Mrs. Horne have supplanted them. I have thus dwelt on the Carnation because for so long a time it seemed as if growers would have to be content with an occasional addition now and then and keep mainly to the old sorts, but Mr. Dodwell has revolutionised them, and as he is yearly adding to his novelties we may expect ere long the older sorts to be ousted by newer and more vigorous-growing varieties. I do not desire now to enter into the vexed question of dressing, although my opinions have no way altered. I would merely warn those who see the beautiful and regular flowers shown at exhibitions that they will never be able to have theirs like them unless they are adepts at what is euphemistically called “ dressing.” This they must take lessons in, and learn by practice ; but they may have great enjoyment in very lovely flowers without it, although they may not be up to exhibition mark. — Delta. MOVING LARGE SHRUBS. It very frequently occurs that shrubs are left in positions where they have not room for development till they are too large to be moved by so light a machine as was figured on page 174. Shrubs planted too near to walks are very troublesome on account of the hard cutting they have to be subjected to, to keep them within bounds. Not only is this so, but they are generally an eyesore, sometimes in the shape of round mop-like heads as hard as worn- out brooms, at others they assume the form of hedges, some even going so far as to cut them with hedge shears. Instead of going on year after year cutting them, it would be much better to move them back, so that they could have a reasonable amount of room. To those who may have such to deal with, and are in any doubt as to how it is to be done, the following note on the subject will perhaps be acceptable. Suppose, then, that a a, fig. 62, represents the position of two Laurels with a spread of branches some 5 feet from the stem, as indicated by the dotted lines b b. For their size they are too near the edge of the walk c c, and too close together. In the first place the lower branches must be tied up so that they will not impede the work of removing the soil. This is best done by getting a good length of strong soft rope. Fix one end to the main stem about 5 feet from the ground ; take a few branches in the double of the rope and bring the loose end round the stem again and pull the branches up tight ; enclose a few more in the next double, and so work round the tree till all is made secure by fastening the end of the rope to where you started. We will suppose that the Laurels have to be moved back a distance of 5 feet, and a like distance further apart. The new position will be at d d. At those points insert stout pegs, and from them at each side, and from the stems of the shrubs, measure off 3^ feet e e e, stretch a line to correspond, and mark it out with the spade. Measure from d to / 4 feet. In the same way mark out a square ball round the shrub, say 4 feet by 5 feet. Proceed to dig out the whole of the soil to a depth of 2 feet, except this square round the roots of the tree, placing the soil at each side of the trench. This done, commence to undermine the ball on each side to a distance of about 9 inches, having a clear space of about the same depth below the ball. At each end undermine it in the same way to the distance of a foot. Now get two long planks, and place them, one on each side, under the ball as shown at g g g g. Upon the top of each of these place a bat of good sound oak or larch, about 4 or 5 inches square and 6 feet long, so that they will project 6 inches beyond the ball at each end. On the top of these bats place a piece of 14-inch board, 9 inches wide and 4 feet long, across each end, pushing them under the ball as far as possible. Next, place something under each corner, a small block of wood, or a brick if there is room for it, between the planks and the bats. This will give room to get a bar under the ends of the latter, by which means it will be easy to raise it so as to get a brick under. Having placed one under each corner, get a lever about 10 feet long made of a straight young larch, with a large block of wood for a fulcrum, and with this raise one corner at a time and place another brick on the top of the one already there, or, what is better, apply two levers at the same time, placing a brick under each corner. Having raised it in this fashion till there are four bricks under each corner, clear all loose soil from under level with the planks, and cut off any roots that may project below the level of the bats under the ball. Four rollers of about 6 inches diameter and 4 feet long are now required. Place two of these in position on the planks, and by using the levers remove the bricks one by one till the bats rest on the rollers. It is then moved along the planks to its new position, raised on bricks again to allow of the rollers being removed, and then let down on the planks. Ram the soil well under the ball where it may be hollow before filling up the space round it. Without very much difficulty two men may move such trees in the way above described, but if they have a lad to assist, the work is done much sooner. They can then each use a lever while the lad places the bricks. If good hard-burned bricks cannot be had, blocks of wood of the same size will be best, as soft bricks will not stand the weight of a heavy ball. — R. Inglis. POTATOES FOR TABLE AND MARKET. ( Continued from page 215.) In the following notes the figures 1, 2, and 3 indicate first early, second early, and late varieties ; the months the time of planting ; and the asterisks those varieties that are considered the best for market purposes by the respective cultivators. Northamptonshire. — 1. For these and second earlies end of March or beginning of April, according to state of weather and soil. *Myatt’s Prolific and *Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — I find light soil suits these the best. 2. *Suttons’ Fiftyfold and *Reading Russet. Soil. — Light and medium suits these. 3. First week in April. Scotch Champion, *Reading Hero, *Magnum Bonum, and Schoolmaster. Soil. — For Scotch Champion, light ; Reading Hero, light and medium ; Magnum Bonum, medium and heavy ; Schoolmaster, medium and heavy. Manures and Application. — For garden culture I use no manure, but manure for the previous crop. For field culture I use farmyard manure ploughed-in in autumn. General Culture. — I find the essential part of Potato cultivation to secure a good crop of clean and handsome tubers is to have the ground thoroughly pul¬ verised by turning it up roughly in autumn, and forking it several times, the oftener the better, in spring before planting, and at least twice after the plants are up. This will, in my opinion, give better results (certainly for table qualities) than a coat of manure, provided the ground is not too poor. Should manure be necessary I would advise it being put on not later than November and dug in ; by so doing I find the Potatoes are of better quality than they are if it is applied at the time of planting. The same remark is true as regards 232 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 22, 1883, field culture, except, of course, that the plough must be substituted for the spade. I am sorry to find that many cultivators, especially cottagers, do not attach sufficient importance to the working of the soil. They think manure is the chief element of success; but for garden cultivation, where the ground is rich and has been manured for the previous crop, it is quite unnecessary, indeed it often does more harm than good, as the richer the ground the more disease there will be. Myatt’s Prolific is so well known that it needs no description. I consider it the best all-round early variety. Beauty of Hebron for light soils is good for all purposes, but on no account should it be planted on very rich or heavy soils, as from such its table qualities are anything but good. For second early varieties I can strongly recommend the two I have named. Fiftyfold is an enormous cropper, resists disease, and possesses excellent table qualities. The same may be said of Reading Russ- 1, but that it is much handsomer in appearance. These two va-ietits were untouched by disease with me last year, although it was the worst year (except 1879) for disease in this neighbourhood that h is been experienced for a long time. I have placed Scotch Champion first on the list of late varieties, and for the reason that as grown on the soil about here (which is light and sandy, resting on a rock of sandstone), it has no equal as a late variety for table qualities ; and were I asked to name one late variety for light, shallow, and poor soils I should have no hesitation in recommending Scotch Champion. Unfortunately it has deep eyes, in consequence of which it do< s not take well in the market. Reading Hero is an excellent cropper, disease-resister, and table variety ; its greatest drawback is its very luxuriant haulm. Magnum Bonum is not good here, but I have seen excellent crops obtained from medium and heavy soils, and it sel!s well in the market. The same remarks apply to Schoolmaster. Regents and Victorias will not do at all here, they seem to be quite worn out. I think that in the course of a year or two we shall have some new varieties of sterling merit, as Potato raisers are now on the right track. Cosmopolitan sent out last year is a promising early variety, but as I grew a limited quan¬ tity of it I aui unable at present to say more about it. — J. Hughes, I'jjdon Hall Gardens , By field. 1. First week in April for all the sections. *Empress Eugenie, W ilson’s Early Frame, and Myatt’s Ashleaf. Wilson’s Early Frame Potato is the earliest 1 know, and has all the good cropping qualities of Myatt’s Ashbaf. Soil. — Rich old garden soil well manured. 2. Rector of Woodstock, Porter’s Excelsior, *Beauty of Hebron, and Milky White. I consider Beauty of Hebron the best. Soil. — Medium, resting on gravel, manured every two years at the rate of 10 tons to the acre. 3. *Scotch Champion, Magnum Bonum, Uxbridge Kidney, and *Wormleighton’s Seedling. I consider Wormleighton’s Seedling to be the coming Potato, but the Champion is at present the most use- f nl. Soil. — Medium, resting on gravel; no manure used since land was broken up for the purpose two years since (having previously had a rrop of Turnips fed off with «heep), and we find last year’s crop to be the soundest and best by far, and not containing any with hollow centres. Manures and Application. — Champions are grown on sandy land three years in succession without any manure. The manure we use for Potatoes generally is farmyard manure, 10 tons to the acre.^R. Gilbert, Buryhley Gardens , Stamford. Northumberland. — 1. About the middle of February. Old Ash¬ leaf, Alpha, and Sandringham. Soil. — I have had strong loam, sandy loam, and gravel soil. 2. About the middle of March. Fortyfold, Rector of Woodstock, and Porter’s Excelsior. 3. About the middle of March. Rintoul’s White Don, Lapstone Kidney, and Magnum Bonum. Manures and Application. — After more than twenty years of Potato planting I have found that the less manure Potatoes re¬ ceive in gardens the better, and I never give them any. I employ with the sets plenty of leaf soil, which I find they like well. If the ground has be* n pieviously dug I set the line, and with a draw hoe take out an opening about 4 inches deep, and after planting the Pota¬ toes I cover them with about 3 inches of leaf soil or half-decayed leaves, then with the hoe draw on the soil over the leaf soil or half- decayed leaves, and this forming a low drill. Should weeds appear before the Potatoes they can bedestroyed with the Dutch hoe. Pota¬ toes should never be planted if the soil is wet, as it becomes too hard and they do not like it. Before earthing-up the soil should be well forked over.— Wm. MoCombik, The Gardens, Mitford Hal!, Morpeth. Nottinghamshire. — 1. March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf and Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Light, sandy, or medium. 2. First week in April. Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf and Porter’s Excelsior, the latter a wonderful cropper. Soil. — Light and medium soils suit them best. . 3. First week in April. A variety called Haigh’s Improved Kidney does well here, also Schoolmaster, and Magnum Bonum. Soil. — Medium and strong. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure is dug in the ground, and a little malt coombes applied round the stems when earthed up I find very good for early varieties. For second and late varieties farmyard manure is dug in, and the drills dressed at p’anting time with rape dust or soot and lime to great advantage. Salt at the rate of 5 cwt. per acre is very good previous to digging. General Culture. — We plant early varieties in rows 3 feet apart. Four feet apart for second ea-lies after earthing up leaves a good space to plant Eclipse and Yeitch’s Autumn Giant Cauliflowers or B usselt Sprouts. Plant late varieties 5 feet apart by 2 feet, which leavt-s good s; ace for Broccoli between. We earth the rows like rows of Celery. — Thos. H. Sutton, The Gardens, Work' sop Manor. Oxfordshire. — 1. March, also for the second earlies. Yeitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Early Hammersmith, Myatt's Prolific Ashleaf, and Rector of Woodstock. Soil. — Medium. 2. Edgcott Seedling, Woodstock Kidney, and Grampian. 3. End of March or early in April. Magnum Bonum, Reading Hero, Bresee’s Prolific, and Vicar of Laleham. There are several new varieties I think highly of, but have grown them one season — viz., Suttons’ First and Best, Suttons’ Early Border, Reading Russet, and Fortyfold. Manures and Appli¬ cation. — No manure used, the ground being previously well manured for other vegetables. General Culture. — The ground is dug two spits deep, and again dug with five-tined steel forks and thoroughly broken. — William Finlay, The Gardens, Wroxton Abbey, Banbury. Rutlandshire. — 1. First week to end of February. The old Ash¬ leaf, Uxbridge Kidney, and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium, planted on south border. 2. Middle to end of March. Snowflake, International Kidney, Rector of Woodstock, and Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Heavy, also for the late varieties. 3. Middle to end of April. Schoolmaster, Magnum Bonum, Fortyfold, and Paterson’s Victoria. Manures and Application. — Old hotbed material and burnt refuse from garden are dug in during the winter season. No artificial manure used. Soil naturally good. Uxbridge Kidney procured from Mr. Gilbert of Burghlev is decidedly the best cropper of the early varieties. General Culture. — Ground winter-dug, trenches taken out at planting time with the spade. The first trench taken out at end of quarter, the next trench taken out to cover Potatoes planted in first trench, and so on through the quarter. Distance from 2 to 3 feet between rows according to varieties, the sets from 10 inches to 1 foot apart.— John Lindsay, Exton Park , Oakham. Shropshire. — 1. April for all the sections. Mona’s Pride, *Myatt’s Prolific, Beauty of Hebron, and Early Bird. Soil. — Light. 2. Wood- stock Kidney, Gloucestershire, *Schoolmaster, and International. Soil.— Medium. 3. *Magnum Bonum, Scotch Champion, Vicar of Laleham, and White Elephant. Soil — Heavy. Manures and Appli¬ cation. — Farmyard manure is applied at the time of planting. — James Ricks, Oakley Park, Market Drayton. Somersetshire. — 1. On a warm border early in February. In the open towards the end of March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Rivers’ Ashleaf, Suttons’ First and Best (round), and *Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Medium. 2. End of March. ’Bliss's Triumph, *Suttons’ Early Regent, Lapstone Kidney, and Woodstock Kidney. Soil. — Medium, clay subsoil. 3. Early in March as possible. *Schoolmaster, ^Reading Hero, ’Magnum. Bonum, and *Scotch Champion. Soil. — Rather heavy, stiff clay subsoil. Manures and Application. — The early borders, being heavily manured for preceding crop, receive a dressing of lime only, applied in a quick state a few days prior to planting. The ground for the bulk of earlies and second earlies is usually heavily dressed with a mixture obtained from a large heap of decomposed garden rubbish applied when planting. The land fol¬ iate varieties receives a liberal dressing of horse manure, and either soot or superphosphate of lime is dusted in the drills. General Culture. — W e attach much importance to the preservation of the central sprout, especially those on the kidney varieties. We plant in shallow drills and earth up heavily, more particularly the late varieties. Earlies on warm borders are planted in rows 2 feet apart, and the sets 9 inches asunder, while those in the open receive another (5 inches. The same distance (30 inches) is found sufficient for the second earlies and Schoolmaster. The more vigorous late varieties are planted in rows 3 feet apart, and the sets 12 inches asunder. This proved ample room last season. — W. Iggulden, Marston Gardens, Frome. 1. End of February or early in March. Carter’s Champion, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, and *My-att’s Prolific. Soil. — Garden Crops. — Soil varies ; naturally a loam of medium texture. The upper portion has through long cultivation and enrichment become a light soil, while the low-lying ground, originally heavy, has been so ameliorated by the continued application of limestone siftings, road sand, ashes, Ac., as to be classed as medium. 2. End of March. *Fluke and *Dalma- hoy. Soil. — Field Crops. — Medium loam. 3. End of March or early in April. Victoria, ^Walker’s Regent, *Scotch Champion, and *Mag- num Bonum. Soil. — Field Crops. — Medium loam. Manures and Application. — In the garden culture of the earlies we prefer to plant without manure on ground liberally dressed with farmyard manure for the previous crop, or use well-decayed leaf soil and old Mushroom beds mixed, strewing it in the trenches under the sets. In the field we apply in the same way a mixture of burnt ashes from the common rubbish heap, sifted coal ashes, and malt dust well incorporated. The malt dust is an excellent, and in this vicinity a very popular Potato manure. General Culture. — The greater part of our early and all late supplies are grown in the open field, alternating as far a3 possible with root and grain crops, for which the land is heavily dressed with farmyard manure. Planting is done with the spade, digging the ground and placing the sets in front of the line as the work proceeds. The rows for earlies are 2 feet apart, 1 foot from plant to plant, and about 4 inches deep, and disposed in beds running east and west March 22. 18S3. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 233 about 6 yards wide. The ranker-growing late varieties have more space given them. What I consider the most essential helps to suc¬ cess in Potato culture are the following : — First, yearly change of ground ; second, frequent change of seed, say every two years at least ; third, planting whole tubers of medium size ; fourth, when growing keep the soil open by repeated surface-stirrings ; and last, but by no means least, the proper preservation and condition of the sets at planting time. How can good crops be expected when exhausted sets, from which the first and best growths have been picked, are planted ? In the case of the earliest for garden culture we place them all on end in shallow boxes in the light, but for large quantities this is impracticable. For field-planted earlies we have long shallow trays of three-quarter-inch wood about 15 feet long and 18 inches wide, with strips nailed on the sides. In these the sets are spread and the tiays placed one above another on blocks of wood. These with their contents are shouldered by four men, placed on a waggon, and taken straight to the field without removal. We have tried autumn plant¬ ing of pedigree Potatoes with great success, but the difficulty lies in getting the land in workable condition then. — Arthur Moore, Cran- more Hall, Shepton Mallet. _ Staffordshire. — 1. Second week in March. Ashleaf, *Bcauty of Hebron, *Covent Garden Perfection, and Mona’s Pride. Soil. — Eather light and rich, fully 2 feet deep. Subsoil, marl ; substratum, clay, resting on a cold bottom. Early Potatoes, always abundant and good, if planted earlier are sure to be cut by frost. 2. April 1st. *Magnum Bonum, Snowflake, *Dalmahoy, and Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — Rather light. 3. April 10th. *Schoolmaster, Scotch Cham¬ pion, *Skerry Blue, and Rector of Woodstock. Soil. — Medium. Manures and Application. — Good horse manure decayed applied in the autumn or winter and dug in. We manure rather heavily, as we grow Broccoli and other vegetables between the rows, otherwise I should use no manure for Potatoes. General Culture. — In order to insure the earliest crops the kidney varieties should be sprouted — that is, they should have an advancement in growth before planting. The Potato requires a deep thoroughly drained light soil, if the ground is new so much the better. The best crop I ever had was grown on the side of a hill ; soil, light maiden loam. — Edward Thomas Gilman, Ingestre Gardens , Stafford. 1. December in frames, February outside. Veitch’s Improved Ash¬ leaf, *Early May, and *Early Racehorse. Soil. — For frames the soil is a mixture from the potting shed and spent Melon and Cucumber beds, with a little burnt earth and wood ashes added, which I find suits them well, the tubers turning out as clean and clear as I could wish. 2. March, first week. American Early Rose. Soil. — Our soil is of medium texture, and the above is suited so well that I grow no other. It is always heavy in crop and boils well. 3. March, first week. Schoolmaster and *Magnum Bonum. Soil. — Medium. Schoolmaster is not good on our soil, but Magnum Bonum is all I could desire both for keeping and cooking. It is also a heavy cropper. Manures and Application. — Chiefly stable manure, with a little from the farm, which is trenched-in during autumn, but not deeply. Artificial manures are not used for the kitchen garden. — W. A. Phillips, Patshull Gardens, Wolverhampton. Suffolk. — 1. The first week in April. Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Porter’s Excelsior, and *Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Medium. 2. Second week in April. *Covent Garden Per¬ fection, *Beauty of Kent, Woodstock Kidney, and Queen of the South. 3. First week in March. *Magnum Bonum, Schoolmaster, *Scotch Champion, and Adirondack. Manures and Application. — Good farm¬ yard manure well dug in, or ploughed very deep in autumn. General Culture. — Dig the land well in the spring just before planting-time, so that the manure may be well mixed with the soil. After planting, and just before the shaws push through the soil, well fork between the rows. When the shaws are about 6 inches high earth them up with a hoe, and fork between them again after earthing. Plant early kinds 2 feet apart, second earlies feet, late varieties 3 feet apart.— William Ellington, West Row Gardens , Soham. 1. From the end of February to the middle of March. Old Ash¬ leaf, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Light sandy soil and not very rich for the first and second earlies. 2. From the middle to the end of March. Schoolmaster, Lapstone, Snowflake, and Dalmahoy. 3. The end of March and beginning of April. Magnum Bonum, Regents, Pater¬ son’s Victoria, and Reading Hero. Soil. — Light shallow sand on chalk. Manures and Application. — The manure we use is from spent hotbeds. For early Potatoes it is dug in and the Potatoes planted at the same time. The ground for the second earlies is dunged and dug about the same time, and the Potatoes planted with a dibble at the time stated. The late varieties receive no manure. — General Culture. — The early Potatoes are grown on borders round the walls, and the second earlies in the open quarters. They are planted 2 feet between the lines. We generally have a good crop of very good quality. The late Potatoes are planted between the lines in young plantations, of which we plant from 20 to 40 acres every year. The ground is trenched two spits deep, and with the exception of an inch or two on the top the soil may be called a bright sand. The sets are planted in the lines from 15 to 18 inches apart, and in a moist season like the last they turn out well both in size and in quantity. The flavour cannot be surpassed. In dry seasons, even a fortnight of very hot weather in the middle of summer, they are ant to receive a check, and when the ground is moistened will begin forming new tubers on those that were checked. They are rot then so good in quality. The rainfall here for last year was 27.10 inches. — Alex. McArthur, Elveden Hall, Thetford. 1. Early in March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Mixed in places, strong clay subsoil. 2. Middle to end of March. Hunt¬ ingdon Kidney. Manures and Application. — Stable manure. The ground is deeply worked, and the manure frequently buried as it comes from the stables. General Culture. — Planting is either done by opening a trench with a spade or by dibbling, the boles bring made not less than a foot apart. The rows for Huntingdon Kidney are usually a yard apart, on some plots 5 feet, then a crop of Broccoli or winter greens is planted between the rows. I have tried a goodly number of sorts, both round and kidney-shaped vaiietie®, but on our soil have found none to surpass, and extremely few to equal in all good qualities, the two named. With ordinary manage¬ ment the Huntingdon is a first-rate keeper. We have it in use as late in the season as old Potatoes are required, and it is uniformly good in quality throughout. — J. Wallis, Orwell Park , Ipswi h. 1. Early in February. *Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Llangollen fa local name for a very good kidney), Suttons’ Racehorse (much prized in this district), and King Noble. Soil. — Medium. 2. February if soil is in suitable condition ; if not, early in March. *Schoolmaster, Woodstock Kidney, and Hanworth Superior. 3. April. *Magnum Bonum and Scotch Champion. Soil. — Inclined to heavy. Manures and Application. — The manure we invariably use for Potatoes is a mixture of manure from the stables and d- cayed leaves dug deeply into the soil in the autumn. About February, usually when we plant our earliest, we give the soil a dressing of wood ashes and ot her cnarred refuse, well incorporated with the soil, a little soot being mixed with it. General Culture. — We attach great importance to the preparation of the soil, and believe in having the ground deeply stirred in autumn and again well broken up at p'anting time. Our practice here is to plant our earliest varieties 30 inches apart between the rows, and afterwards plant autumn Cauliflowers between them. We invariably have heavy crops of Potatoes, and the last few seasons the Veitch’s Autumn Giant Cauliflowers have been very large. We are curtailing the number of varieties. _ We have always grown a good breadth of Early Ros1, but the quality is not good enough, so Schoolmaster is to be tried instead. Snowflake was also planted to a moderate extent, but the produce these last two seasons has not been satisfactory. Our late varieties are grown in a field, which is manured and ploughed as early as convenient in thi autumn, and again well ploughed, harrowed, and broken up at plant¬ ing time, planting in stetches in preference to on the flat. For a 1 our crops we use moderately sized whole tubers, which we keep on shelves exposed to the light. — James Bole, Somerleyton Hall, Lowestoft. Surrey. — 1. Last week in February. Fox’s Seedling, King of Earlies, Early Ashleaf, and *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — "V ery shallow and dry, with a chalk subsoil. 2. Third or fourth week in March. King of Potatoes, *Schoolmaster, *Beaut.y of Hebron, and Bresee’s Prolific. 3. First or second week in March. Que< n of the Valley, Red-skin Flourball, *11agnum Bonum, and Scotch Champion. Manures and Application. — Mixed pig, cow, and horse manure is ploughed in during winter and the land well scarified in the spriner. General Culture. — The Potatoes are dibb d in after the plough ; then the horse hoes are used freely during ihe growing season before being earthed up with the moulding plough. I gen- rally plant about forty- eight varieties. — C. Osman, Bailiff, S.M.D. Schools, Sutton. 1. As early in March as possible. Early Coldstream, Veitch’a Improved Ashleaf, and Early Bird. Soil. — Light, chalk subsoil within 12 inches in most parts of the garden. 2. Middle of March. Schoo'- master, Covent Garden Perfection, Prince Arthur, and Woodstock Kidney. 3. Middle to end of March. Suttons’ Reading Hero (mo.-t excellent), Vicar of Laleham, Grampian, and Scotch Champion (for field and market). Scotch Champions come of fine quality on the lightest ground, and seldom take disease ; on heavier soil they grow coarser and are more liable to disease. Manures and Application. — Potatoes are planted on parts of the garden to which manure was applied for other crops the previous year. For field cultivation farmyard manure is placed on the stubble in autumn and p'oughed in, ploughed again in March, and planted after the plough. No artificial manure is used. General Culture. — In the spring of 1882 I planted thirty-two varietiis, including many new kinds, some of which proved tender and require rich ground ; others I intend to try again in other situations. I, how¬ ever, proved that the American varieties are not suitable to this soil, all being of poor flavour and subject to disease. though many of them are heavy croppers. — Oliver Goldsmith, The Gardens, Polesden , Dorking. 1. Generally last week in February. *Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, and Early Hammersmith. Soil. — Light, and a tendencv to being sandy. 2. First week in March. *Early Rose, *Beauty of Hebron. *Rector of Wood- stock, and Suttons’ Early Regent.. Soil. — Medium loam. 3. First and second week in March. *Magnutn Bonum. *School master, *Scotch Champion, and Suttons’ Red-skin Flourball. Manures and Application.— The land is ridged, and good decomposed farmyard manure is spread between the ridges a month before planting. General JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. y ~ 234 [ March 22, 1883. Culture. — The stubble is ploughed up as early as possible in the autumn, cut across with the plough in January, well dragged or scarified and harrowed, finally throwing it in ridges, and manure is laid between if possible a month previous to planting. It is kept perfectly clean by hoeing, and the plants are well banked up. — Thos. Sillence, The Gardens , Nonsuch Park, Cheam. 1. February 20th. Old Ashleaf, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Walnut-leaved Kidney, Fortyfold Early, and Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Light sandy loam. 2. Early in March. Schoolmaster, Snow¬ flake, Walker’s Early Regent, and Co vent Garden Perfection. 3. March 20th. The old York Regent, Scotch Champion, Magnum Bonum, and Paterson’s Yictoria. Manures and Application. — Well-decayed good stable manure. Early varieties are planted 2 feet apart in the rows, second varieties 3 feet, late varieties 4 feet. General Culture. — All well earthed as soon as clear from weeds at 4 to 6 inches out of the ground. William Kemp, Albury Park Gardens, Guildford. 1. First week in March for all of them. Yeitch’s Improved Ash¬ leaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and *Early Rose. Soil. — Sandy and rather light, but very much inclined to cake hard during the summer months. 2. We do not grow second early varieties, as the early and late varieties here answer all the purposes required. 3. ^Scotch Champion, *Suttons’ Magnum Bonum, and Paterson’s Yictoria. Manures and Application. — Well-decayed stable manure is employed, mixed with equal portions of soil from the ga;dea refuse heap. General Culture. — We spread the compost over the ground, and then well dig it and dibble in the Potatoes in rows 3 feet apart. — E. J. Bayman, Holmbury, Dorking. 1. From end of January till middle of March. *Yeitch’s Improved Ashleaf, *Fox’s Seedling, Giant King, and Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Light sandy loam. 2. March and early in April. *Rintoul’s Early Don, Dajmahoy, *Grampian, and *Magnum Bonum, the last in some seasons is good to use when being dug. 3. April and early in May. *Magnum Bonum, *Yictoria,*Dunbar Regent, and Champion. Manures and Application. -Short stable manure mixed with old hotbed materials. Sometimes the sets dibbled in after the ground is dressed and dug. I find the best results after dressing the sets as they are planted, lay¬ ing on the manure and digging the ground as we plant. General Culture. — I should prefer to have all the planting done by the middle of April, but we are obliged to wait till the green vegetables are removed. I have always had Late Rose of very good quality here, and a first-rate cropper, but this season it is quile uneatable, and most of the other Americans are the same. I have grown the old Fortyfold for several years, but during the last few seasons the crop has decreased, otherwise it is one of the best midseason Potatoes. Magnum Bonum is here of extra fine quality, and certainly one of the best Potatoes for market or table, and we have scarcely had a diseased tuber. — John Burnett, The Deepdene Gardens, Dorking. YOUNG- GARDENERS. I have read with great interest the articles on gardening and gardeners. As a young gardener, having spent over seven years in bothies at various places, I never met young men generally as described by “ G. H.” on page 134. Head gardeners, as is stated on page 172, would not tolerate unsteady men ; and, further, I venture to say that as a rule young gardeners compare favourably with any other class of men. In reference to “ G. H.’s ” sugges¬ tion on libraries, I do not think that it is in any way the want of books that keeps young men from reading. Books and papers upon gardening are so numerous and cheap that with the outlay of a. few coppers weekly information can be had on every useful topic ; yet libraries in gardens would be a great boon to many. There are more failures by the want of perseverance than of ability, and no one knows what he can do until he tries. I would urge every young gardener to study the writings 'of their superiors, and consider who is to supply the succeeding generation with the privileges we now enjoy. Young men should endeavour by every possible means to make themselves competent to take the places of those who by their diligence and perseverance gained their distinction. Those amongst us who think more of seeking night than gaining knowledge had better leave the ranks, as they will do no good for themselves nor to the calling with which they are connected. — J. S. PRESERVING MELONS. Lately, to pass the time, I had occasion to read Burnaby’s “Ride to Khiva,” and could not help wondering how the Khivans manage to keep Melons fresh and well flavoured all through their almost arctic winter. At the end of January he found them plen¬ tiful in the bazaars, and pronounced them to be better flavoured than any he ever tasted in England. Whether this was owing to his having tasted nothing in the fruit way for some time, or "was really owing to their excellence, may be a question, for those brought home were by no means first-class. But is it not possible that the kind might be possessed of valuable keeping qualities that might enable us to have Melons all the year round without the aid of excessive firing or the electric light ? Captain Burnaby asserts that they are preserved by the dryness of the air. This may be doubted. At all events there need be no great difficulty in producing air dry enough and also cool enough. The man who shall invent a method or raise a variety that shall enable us to keep Melons like some of our Grapes from September till spring will confer a boon on us, whereas growing them in winter by hot water and the electric light will be no boon. The one system is excessively costly, the other should be inex¬ pensive. Is there any reason why this should not be realised ? So far as flavour and fruitfulness is concerned improvements are hardly possible. But let raisers now devote their energies to produce a Melon that may be kept to serve with Lady Downe’s Grape in March, and the horticultural world will be indebted to him indeed. Even supposing only the first step be taken along the road we have indicated, the goal may one day be reached. — Invalid. PTMLEPNGS. Mr. Shirley Hibberd will give a lecture on Amaryllises at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on Tuesday next at 3 p.m. - A Dorchester correspondent, “ Crux,” asks if any of our readers will kindly say if they find cocoa-nut fibre refuse a harbour for woodlice. They are a perfect pest in his garden, and he would not like to introduce the stuff if they are at all/partial to it. - The dates of the Newcastle-on-Tyne Flower Shows for the present year are fixed as follows : — Spring Show, May 2nd and 3rd ; Summer Show, July 25th, 26th, and 27th. - A correspondent thus alludes to Cardiff Castle Cucumber : “ For handsomeness, fertility, and hardiness allow me to recommend this variety. I grew it last year for the first time, and to those who have not yet made its acquaintance I would say, Do so.” - It has been decided to open a subscription for a memorial to the late Mr. John Sadler, and that this should chiefly take the form of a fund applicable to the maintenance of Mr. Sadler’s widow and family of seven children, who, in consequence of his sadly premature decease (at the age of 45) are left altogether in¬ adequately provided for. Dr. William Craig, F.R.S.E., Lecturer on Materia Medica, Edinburgh School of Medicine (address, 7, Lothian Road, Edinburgh), is appointed Treasurer, and em¬ powered to receive subscriptions. - In Messrs. Garraway’s Durdham Down Nurseries, Bristol, we recently noticed a very useful strain of Cinerarias. They were remarkably dwarf, and produced heads of large well-formed flowers of a variety of colours. Such a strain of Cinerarias are well adapted for conservatory decoration, and for market purposes must prove valuable. Double Cinerarias are also well represented, and seedlings, which though inferior to Mr. Thomas Lloyd and other named varieties in the house with them, are still very serviceable. In another house a good batch of Begonia Roezlii was noteworthy. This will in time become equally as popular as the old and perpetual-flowering Begonia nitida, which it resembles, with the important exception of pro¬ ducing large trusses of bright scarlet flowers, instead of the pale rose-coloured blooms which we are most accustomed to. - A correspondent writes — “ With reference to Dr. Paterson’s note on material for potting Orchids in, has that gentleman never tried the roots of strong-growing Ferns 1 March 22, 1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 235 l y i Y f . such as Lastrea Filix-mas and L. dilatata? I have employed the above for several years back. A most successful Orchid grower in the Doctor’s own neighbourhood also employs Fern roots, with great satisfaction. I had the pleasure of visiting the collection under his care only a few days ago, and found some remarkably well-grown plants, the cool Orchids especially.” - Mb. John Cakter, Keighley, writes — “ It may interest some of your readers to hear that after trying of many plants I do not find any so effective for edging either garden or shrub¬ bery as Cotoneaster microphylla. Small and young plants planted in April, about a foot apart and pegged down, form a graceful bordering in a few weeks. During the summer the longer growths should be shortened with secateurs, and in future years kept in any form to suit the taste. The flowers and red berries give a pleasing appearance during many months. Cotone¬ aster has not the stiff formal appearance of Box, nor the sombre¬ ness of Ivy.” - The twelfth annual Exhibition of the Teddington Royal Horticultural Society is announced for Wednesday, July 4tb, and will be held in the grounds adjoining Bushey Park Cottage. Ninety-three classes are provided, eighty-three being in three sections, for nurserymen, amateurs, and cottagers respectively, the remaining ten being special classes, in which the prizes are contributed by local supporters of the Society. Plants, flowers, fruits, and vegetables are all liberally provided for. The con¬ dition of the Society appears to be very satisfactory, for the financial account gives a balance of £22 14s. to its credit, an improvement of about £4 on last year. - “ F. W. B.” writes to us as follows relative to the non¬ acknowledgment OF EXTRACTS FROM OUR COLUMNS, and published elsewhere : — “ As you were so generous as to believe of me. in the Journal of last week, page 224, the non-acknowledg¬ ment of the paragraphs referred to was indeed quite uninten¬ tional — in fact, as you suggest, a pure accident on my part. Having satisfied myself that the omission was entirely my own, whatever of responsibility there is must rest on my own shoulders. As the articles in question are likely to reappear in book form I am especially pleased that an opportunity is still left to me to make some little reparation in the matter.” This is just such a frank acknowledgment as we expected. We have had further letters on the subject of “ manufactured ” articles, and it is clear from them that the practice does not meet with general approval. - An American contemporary states that Strawberries and green Peas, fresh picked, from Florida are now on sale in some of the markets. Hothouse Tomatoes of insignificant size are retailing at 1 dollar (4s. 2d.) per pound, and Cucumbers 3 dollars (12s. G d.) per dozen. Twenty-three quarts of Straw¬ berries from Florida were recently sold in New York at from 1 dollar to 5 dollars a quart. - We are glad to observe by the schedule before us that the Northamptonshire Horticultural Society, which held its first show last year, is in a satisfactory state, the income of the year — £753 9.?. 3d. — having exceeded the expenditure by nearly £200. The Exhibition will be held this year on August 6th and 7th in Delaprd Park, the schedule containing 125 classes. Prizes of £10, £6, and £3 are offered for twelve stove or green¬ house plants, and £5 is offered as the first prize for a miscel¬ laneous collection. These prizes and some others for Ferns and fine-foliaged plants are open to non-members on payment of an entrance fee of 10<«. 6d. In connection with the Society a seed¬ ling Potato exhibition will be held on August Gth and 7cb, an exhibition of bees and apiarian appliances to be held at the same time. - In the issue of L' Illustration ITorticole for February excellent coloured figures are given of Dendrobium bigibbum and CypRIPEDlUM Lawrenceanum, two very distinct and beautiful Orchi Is. The former is one of the most beautiful of the Australian Orchids, its large racemes of crimson flowers being very attractive. Cypripedium Lawrenceanum is entitled to rank amongst the finest of the marble-leaved species, the dorsal sepal being of great size, rounded, white streaked regularly from apex to base with warm purplish-crimson ; the lip is also of a fine purple hue. - In the same issue of the above periodical is given a coloured representation of Aralia gemma, a New Caledonian species introduced by M. Linden in 1875. It has long, graceful, pinnate leaves, the pinnae being small but deeply and irregularly cut, imparting a very distinct appearance to the plant. It is said to succeed well in a greenhouse, or perhaps preferably in a temperature intermediate between a stove and that of the house mentioned. It is very easily grown, thriving in a compost of peat, leaf soil, light loam, and sand. - We have received the schedule of the Royal Cale¬ donian Horticultural Society's Shows during the present year. The spring Exhibition will be held on the 4th and 5th of April, the summer Exhibition on July 11th, and the autumn Show on September 12th and 13th. The classes are very numerous, and have been judiciously framed with the object of enabling the greatest number of exhibitors to compete, while the prizes are good without being sensational. The amount offered in 139 classes at the spring Show is £258, in 103 classes at the summer Show £207, and in 14S classes at the autumn Show £240. At the first-named Show £5 is provided for the best table of plants, and a similar sum for six Azaleas. At the autumn Exhibition £5 is the chief prize for a collection of fruit, and £6 for twelve bunches of Grapes. The Corporation of Edinburgh also contributes £12 in three prizes for Grapes. The Shows are open to all competitors, whether members of the Society or not, and the commendable practice is adopted of paying the prize money on the days of the Shows. The finances of the Society are in a healthy state, there being a balance of upwards of £330 over the disbursements of the year. - A HANDSOME folding writing cabinet with the following address has been presented to Mr. H. A. Mann at the New Somerby Literary Institute (the Rev. W. Nash in the chair) accompanied with a purse containing £10, on the occasion of his removal from St. Vincent’s, Grantham, to take charge of the gardens at Denton Hall, Grantham. “ Dear Sir, — We have great pleasure in waiting upon you to ask you to accept the above-mentioned testimonial as a small token of our appreciation of the high pro¬ fessional qualifications you have attained as a member of our ancient craft, which have been so fully proved to the horticultural community in the many successful achievements which have attended your career as an exhibitor, and by certificate*, &c., which have been awarded you by the Royal Horticultural Society. Also in recognition of the valuable services rendered by you as head gardener to Mrs. Hornsby at St. Vincent’s, an establishment with which your name will long be remembered, especially by those whose privilege it has been to live under you as foremen and pupils of your training. We beg to offer you our united congratulations on your appointment to the charge you are about to undertake ; and we sincerely hope that that confidence which has been placed in you by both employer and those employed under you (in the situation to which you are about to say fare¬ well) may be vouchsafed to you in the position on which you are shortly to enter, bearing with you the best wishes of the friends who have so liberally supported this our united offering. — (Signed) Stephen Davies, on behalf of the Subscribers.” JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 236 - It has been decided by the Chambre Syndicale of Belgian Horticulturists to organise at[Gkent an international meeting of horticulturists on the occasion of the quinquennial Exhi¬ bition which’ opens on April 15th. This meeting has for object to offer to the horticulturists of all nations an occasion to discuss mutually a few of the intricate questions connected with the development of their industry and the extension of their com¬ mercial relations. Two [main points are already inscribed as business of [the day — one bearing upon the state the horticultural trade is placed in by the Berne Phylloxera Convention ; the other of the necessity that common action of all horticulturists of the different countries should be taken, with a view to obtain the protection and advantages the horticultural industry has a lawful right to. Entertainments and excursions will be organised to the different horticultural centres of Belgium at the occasion of this meeting. A[reduction of 50 per cent, is allowed on the Belgian state railway lines, and steps are being taken to have the same favour allowed from foreign ones. A Congress member ticket will be addressed to[each adherent to enable him to partake of all ad¬ vantages connected with his adhesion. No special imposition is claimed of the [Congress adherents, but only persons connected with horticulture.by their interests or their known sympathies for horticulture are invited. All who desire to join in this Congress can obtain the requisite forms from M. Edm. de Potter, Secretary, Chambre Syndicale des Horticulteurs, Ghent, Belgium. BRISTOL SPRING SHOW. March 14th and 15th. The thirteenth annual spring Exhibition of the Bristol Chrysan¬ themum and Spring Show Society, held as usual in the Victoria Booms, Clifton, was in every respect most successful. It is true the extremely cold weather prevailing had the effect of keeping away many large and valuable plants, and from the same cause the attrac¬ tive groups usually exhibited by the Messrs. Maule & Son were absent ; yet the large plants exhibited well filled all the centres of the tables, and formed admirable backgrounds to the long and wide bands of Hyacinths and other bulbous plants. Hyacinths were shown in extraordinary numbers, of good average quality, and were the great attraction of the meeting. Many most creditable examples were staged ; and this is all the more noteworthy, seeing that Hyacinths are much complained of this year, owing, it is presumed, to imperfect ripening of the bulbs. There was, however, nothing apparent of this in the premier prize collection of eighteen Hyacinths and twelve Tulips staged by Mr. G. Marsh, gardener to M. Dunlop, Esq., as these would have been difficult to surpass at any time, so exceptionally fine were they. In addition to the special prize of three guineas offered by the Treasurer, W. Derham, Esq,, the Knightian silver medal of the Boyal Horticultural Society was also awarded to Mr. Marsh, this being offered for the best twelve Hya¬ cinths in any class. These consisted of Leonidas, Prince of Wales, Czar Peter, Pieneman, Madame Van der Hoop, King of the Blues, L’lnnocence, Princess Mary of Cambridge, Lord Derby, L’Or d’Aus- tralie, Mont Blanc, and Gigantea ; while the best pots of Tulips, equally as well grown, were of White Pottebakker, Keyser’s Kroon, Proserpine, Yellow Pottebakker, and Yellow Tournesol. Mr. G. Howe, gardener to L. Pry, Esq., was an excellent second, the spikes of Hyacinths Charles Dickens, Lord Derby, King of the Blues, Blondin, Pabiola, and Mont Blanc being most noteworthy, and his Tulips were generally fairly good. The third prize went to Mr. W. Pox, gardener to Mrs. Hurle, for an even and good collection. Two others also staged meritorious collections. Mr. Marsh also staged the first-prize group in the well-filled class for twelve Hyacinths, distinct, these including good examples of Jenny Deans, Grandeur 5, Merveille, Lina, and Macaulay. Mr. G. Webley followed closely with spikes remarkably sturdy, the bells being well developed. His best were Lord Derby, Pieneman, Baron von Tuyll, Leonidas, and Ida. Mr. E. S. Cole, gardener to W. Pethick, Esq., was awarded the third prize for a very slightly inferior group, and an extra prize was deservedly awarded to Mr. G. Howe. Mr. G. Webley took the first of the special prizes offered by the Messrs. Garaway & Co. for twelve single Hyacinths in four colours, the exhibitor’s examples of King of the Blues, Sir II. Havelock, Von Schiller, Czar Peter, Grandeur h Merveille, and La Grandeur being remarkable for the stoutness of spike and correspondingly good foliage. Mr. C. Taggett followed with very similar varieties well grown, while Mr. Marsh was awarded the third prize for good exj- amples. The first of the prizes offered by J. D. Weston, Esq., for twelve Hyacinths in pairs of six distinct varieties was awarded to Mr. C. Taggett for slightly drawn but otherwise excellent pairs of King of the Blues, Madame Van der Hoop, La Grandeur, Lord Ma¬ [ March 22, 1883. d caulay, Baron von Tuyll, and Plorence Nightingale. The secon f prize was awarded to Mr. G. Howe, and the third to Mr. F. Perry gardener to H. C. Miles, Esq., both well deserving the awards. The best six Hyacinths, distinct, were staged by Mr. E. S. Cole, he having Queen of the Hyacinths, Czar Peter, Mont Blanc, and C. Dickens in good condition. Mr. G. Milliner, gardener to Miss Richardson, and Mr. W. Lintern, gardener to W. Butler, Esq., took the remaining prizes in the order named, these and several others staging creditably. The prizes offered by Mr. E. J. Burgess for twelve Hyacinths in not less than six varieties brought together an excellent class. Mr. W. Dobson was first with massive spikes, but pips small, the best being Ida, King of the Blues, Alba superbissima, and Mont Blanc. Mr. Marsh was a good second ; and Mr. W. Bye, gardener to J. Derham, Esq., took the third prize for a neat brightly coloured group. With four pots of single Tulips in a large class Mr. G. Milliner, gardener to Miss Bichardson, took first honours, his examples of White Pottebakker, Vermilion Brillant, Keyser’s Kroon, and Proser¬ pine being even and good in form and colour. Mr. Webley was placed second, his collection including good pots of Chrysolora and White Pottebakker. Mr. J. Goddard, gardener to R. H. Symes, Esq., was placed third for a very dwarf even lot. In the corresponding class for double Tulips Mr. C. Taggett took the lead with well-grown examples of Bex Rubrorum, Imperator Rubrorum, and Bed and Yellow Tournesol. Mr. Marsh and Mr. W. Fox took the remaining prizes in the order named, and these two exhibitors were respectively first and second with six pots of Polyanthus Narcissus. A silver cup of the value of four guineas was offered for the best group of plants in bloom, exclusive of Orchids, and this was easily won by Mr. W. Bye, who staged a highly creditable collection, com¬ prising Azaleas of all sizes, a large Rhynchospermum jasminoides, Imantophyllum miniatum, Bouvardias, Pimelea spectabilis, Deutzias, Spiraeas, and bulbous-rooted plants. Mr. P. Perry followed with a more flatly arranged yet showy group, in which Rhododendrons, Belgian and Indian Azaleas figured largely ; he was also the only exhibitor of a bank of plants in which Orchids were admitted, and was awarded the first prize and Knightian bronze medal of the Royal Horticultural Society. Of these the most conspicuous were Cypripedium villosum, C. Boxalli, C. barbatum, Odontoglossum Alexandra, Cattleya deli- cata, C. Trianse, Dendrobium nobile, Lycaste Skinneri, Lselia harpo- phylla, and Masdevallia Lindeni, the latter being remarkably good. The best specimen Orchid, a Dendrobium nobile, measuring from 3 to 4 feet in diameter, and crowded with blooms, was staged by Mr. E. Miller, gardener to P. Tagart, Esq. ; the next best, a large pan of Ccelogyne cristata, equally flowered, being staged by Mr. P. Perry. The third prize was awarded to Mr. J. H. Stevens, gardener to S. Bud- gett, Esq. Prizes were offered by A. Baker, Esq., for six Ferns, Mr. Bannister, gardener to H. H. V. Ames, Esq., securing the first for fine healthy specimens of Adiantum farleyense, A. formosum, Gymno- grammas, and Blechnum corcovadense, while Mr. H. K. Ward followed very closely with somewhat similar varieties. The latter exhibitor reversed the position in the class for four fine-foliaged plants, as he secured the premier award for medium-sized but healthy and highly coloured specimens of Croton Weismanni, Anthurium crystallinum, Ananassa sativa variegata, and Maranta zebrina ; Mr. Bannister wTas a good second. The best six ornamental-foliaged plants, which in¬ cluded large specimens of Croton interruptum, Latania borbonica, and Pandanus Veitchii were shown by Mr. Rye, Air. S. Budgett taking the second prize for a creditable group. Special prizes were offered by P. H. Vaughan, Esq., for a single specimen stove or greenhouse plant in flower, and the first of these was secured by Mr. G. Howe with a grandly bloomed Imantophyllum miniatum, the second prize going to Mr. Perry for a very good Genetyllis tulipifera. Porced hardy hardwooded plants were fairly well shown, the best being by Mr. O’Brien, gardener to Mrs. King ; the second prize going to Mr. W. Pox ; and Mr. O’Brien was also successful with Rhododen¬ drons. Large Azaleas were well shown by Messrs. C. Taggett and E. S. Cole, who took the principal prizes. Numbers of beautifully flowered Azaleas, suitable for table decoration, were shown, the best pair by Mr. Bright. Table plants and small Perns are always well shown at Bristol, and include neat well-coloured Dracaenas, Pandanus Veitchii, Aralias, Crotons, and Adiantum cuneatum, A. gracillimum, A. farleyense, Lomaria gibba, and other Ferns. In these classes the most successful exhibitors were Mr. Loosemore, gardener to W. Cooper, Esq., Mr. E. Miller, Mr. Bannister, Mr. S. Budgett, and Mr. Prideaux. Cinerarias were shown unusually well, and better plants than Mr. P. Edwards’s, gardener to J. Lysaght, Esq., the premier exhi¬ bitor, would be difficult to find. The heads of large well-formed blooms averaged 15 inches in diameter, and those staged by Mr. N. Hockey, gardener to H. Mordan, Esq., and Mr. M. Cole, gardener to R. B. Cater, Esq., were only slightly inferior. Chinese Primulas, again, both double and single-flowering, were very fine, the first and second prizes for the former being taken respectively by Mr. G. Howe and Mr. Rye ; and with the singles Messrs. W. Lintern and H. K. Ward were deservedly successful. Lilies of the Valley were remark¬ ably well shown by Messrs. Howe and G. Shelton, gardener to W.' K. Wait, Esq. ; Marie Louise Violets by Messrs. Pethick and H. K. Ward ; Cyclamens by Messrs. Howe and W. Rye ; and Tricolor Geraniums by Mr. C. Taggett. Hand and button-hole bouquets and vases of cut flowers are in¬ variably well represented at these shows, and were very attractive i March 22, 1883 ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 237 and good on this occasion. As a rule the bouquets were too closely packed, but as regards shape and the quality of flowers employed they were perfect. Messrs. Loosemore, E. Miller, gardener to F. Ta- gart, Esq., and J . Goddard took the prizes in the order named for bouquets from which Orchids were excluded ; and in another class for which prizes were provided by Mrs. Yates Stevens, Messrs. W. Pethick, E. Miller, and J. Loosemore secured the awards. The vases of flowers for table decoration were extremely light and elegant, very choice flowers predominating. The prizes were taken by Messrs. T. Pease, W. Pethick, and W. Butler in the order named. Cut Roses were fairly well shown, and included an excellent stand of Teas from Mr. Gowing, gardener to C. Fisher, Esq., the same exhibitor also staging other blooms not for competition. The best were of Catherine Mermet, Souvenir d’un Ami, Niphetos, Madame Willermoz, Anna Ollivier, Cheshunt Hybrid, and Rubens. The second prize was awarded to Mr. M. Cole for a creditable stand, which included good blooms of Catherine Mermet, Comtesse Rose de Paris, Madame Bravy, Empereur de Maroc, and Marechal Niel. Muscat of Alexandria and Lady Downe’s Grapes and Telegraph Cucumbers were very well shown by Mr. J . Gibson, gardener to Mrs. Miller, who took the first prize in both instances ; and Mr. Loosemore had Lady Downe’s Grapes in good condition, and was awarded the second prize. Apples were shown by Messrs. Milliner, E. T. Hill, and Webley, and Pears by Mr. T. Pease. Messrs. Garaway & Co., Durdham Down Nurseries, in addition to lending a number of large ornamental-foliaged plants, staged upwards of two hundred Hyacinths, and which made a very effective display. All were well grown, but the best spikes were of Lothair, Grand Lilas, Tricolor, Grand Blue, Lord Byron, Charles Dickens, Pieneman, Fabiola, L’lnnocence, Cavaignac, King of the Yellows, Prince of Wales, Marie, L’Or d’Australie, and Beauty of Waltham. On the whole a most attractive exhibition was arranged, which greatly redounded to the credit of the experienced and energetic Honorary Secretary, Mr. Webley, and the Committee, which, it will be remem¬ bered, is composed exclusively of practical gardeners. Many special prizes other than those enumerated were provided, but in other respects the inhabitants of Bristol and the aristocratic neighbourhood of Clifton are scarcely so appreciative as these annual extensive exhibitions fully merit. THE CHRYSANTHEMUM ELECTION. In looking over the result of the Chrysanthemum election I find eleven electors bracket Refulgence and Inner Temple as the same variety. This is cuiious, seeing that Inner Temple grows as coarse as Prince Alfred, while Refulgence has more the habit of Prince of Wales. Inner Temple is much wider in the petal, while the colour resembles Arigena. I fail to see any difference between Mr. Bunn and Golden Beverley, and should not like to exhibit them in one stand. With regard to Mrs. Heales and Princess of Wales they are distinct enough for any purpose, being at the least quite as distinct as Queen of England and Empress of India. That Mr. G. Glenny should obtain a place in the first twenty-four seems strange when such varieties as Baron Beust, Angelina, Mr. Brunlees, and Mrs. Shipman failed to do so. Having been a regular reader of the Journal for fifteen years I trust you will excuse me troubling you with these notes. — J. Holmes, Night¬ ingale Lane , Balliam. _ In briefly expressing my thanks to the Editor and all concerned in the recent election of Chrysanthemums, I must say how greatly I have been interested in the same. As a large grower, I must confess I felt very much surprised at the way many varieties have been bracketed together as too much alike, when in many cases they have been quite distinct. I cannot pass the discussions which have followed without noticing Mr. Moorman’s remarks on page 17S, where he says Princess of Wales and Mrs. Heales are so closely allied that they ought not to be admitted on a stand of twelve varieties. Now in this I must disagree with him, as when properly represented they are quite distinct. I have Mount Edg- cumbe, which is quite dissimilar from Mrs. Bundle, and with me Mr. Howe is larger and of a different shade of colour from John Salter, though they are much alike in other respects. I quite agree with Mr. Orchard (page 190), and find White Globe, Isa¬ bella Bott, and Empress of India quite distinct, as also are Golden Beverley from Mr. Bunn. The last-named is an acquisition to any collection, and only wants to be better known to be appreciated. I concur in the remarks of Mr. Etherington (page 195) respect¬ ing the desirability of an election of Japanese varieties, which would prove to be of great service to many of your readers ; and I hope, if an election should take place of these special favourites, that we shall have them elected, a certain number best for exhi¬ bition, and a certain number best and most suitable for decorative purposes. — W. A. Walter, Gaytan House. The Chrysanthemum election promises to lead to a thorough revision of all the most important varieties. This will be a boon to many, and thanks are due to your Journal and to all who are aiding in reducing confusion to harmony. It appears to me that several contributors did not clearly understand what was meant by too-much-alike varieties, as it is evident that several have bracketed varieties on the ground of similarity in colour only ; but there are other points to be taken into consideration. Lady Hardinge and Lady Slade are alike in colour, but the build of the flowers is very different. Pink Perfection, Venus, and Lady Hardinge certainly resemble each other in colour only ; General Bainbrigge and Beauty of Stoke are very much alike in colour and build, or I have not had the correct variety of Beauty of Stoke. Mr. Moorman thinks they are quite distinct ; I consider them third-rate varieties. Vesta has been described as a reflexed flower. I have known it eighteen years, and have always found it an incurved flower, and a very free and useful variety, of which I have seen remarkably fine blooms. Varieties have been mentioned as too much alike that bear no resemblance whatever to each other either in character of flower, colour, or foliage — for instance, Angelina and Mabel Ward, John Salter and Angelina. One contributor speaks of Mrs. Bundle and Mrs. Shipman being alike, while the former is pure white and the latter fawn colour. Again, Isabella Bott is white, while Lady Hardinge is pink. I am surprised that Golden Queen did not stand higher in the election, but with the votes accorded to Emily Dale it would have been in the twenty-four. I thought it would have been in the first twelve. I also think Golden Empress of India should have the place of Prince Alfred. Crimson Velvet is a reflexed variety ; Mons. Bonamy, which I presume is meant for Louis Bonamv, is Anemone-flowered. I hope the Editor will open an election of J apanese varieties, which I am sure would meet with a cordial reception. — Grower and Exhibitor. LIFTING VINES IN MARCH. I read with much interest Mr. Bardney’s article on the above subject, and feel sure that what he says about the desire to root out Vines and replant being so general, especially with young gardeners, is very true. It is astonishing what can be done in the way of lifting and laying Vine roots in new soil. I have seen every root belonging to a Vine lifted, entirely freed from old soil, laid in fresh turf, &c., the result being a new lease of life to the Vine, finer wood, and larger bunches. I have lifted the roots of late Vines in autumn when the leaves were just about to fall, and with all the fruit on the Vines. No apparent injury was done to the Grapes, which hung fresh and plump till January. The Vines broke well, grew strongly, and have ever since continued to im¬ prove in strength and fruitfulness. When convenient, however, I would lift Vine roots in spring, say March, in preference to autumn. At present we are renewing the soil of a Vine border where the Vines have been for a number of years undisturbed. The roots are found inclining downwards, but they are all being brought near the surface, and laid in new soil. Mr. Bardney is very right to advocate an extensive growth of foliage in con¬ nection with newly lifted Vines. I may perhaps be allowed to add that the article in question (page 189), is one that should have the attentive perusal of all who are wishing trustworthy information on the subject of lifting Vine roots. — N. W. CURRENT TOPICS. Substitutes for Maidenhair. — At page 197 Mr. Taylor re¬ commends sprays of the Red Cedar as a substitute for Maidenhair. Its fault is there pointed out. A better is the thin, drawn, slender twigs of Box, either from the centre of bushes or from those grown in the shade. These are bright green, are elegant, and, above all, will retain their freshness for a week or more in the driest atmo¬ sphere. We have some here a fortnight old, perfectly fresh, which have withstood atmospheric conditions that withered matured fronds of Adiantum cuneatum in a few hours. Greenery in winter is scarce ; even those who have the best appliances are glad to look out for a substitute for Maidenhair then, but those whose appli¬ ances are not of the best are glad of such substitutes as we have named. Ivy, Mahonia, and other leaves are charming, and might be oftener used. The Growth of Trees. — Referring to the quoted remarks at page 197, we may be allowed to remark that the growth of trees, at least so far as length of annual growth is concerned, depends much more on the character of the preceding summer, and especially autumn, than on the meteorological conditions of the summer in which they are made. When the summer pre¬ vious is warm and the autumn also warm, trees of all kinds go 238 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 22, 1883. on storing matter, and the consequence is a strong growth the year following. This applies much more to young than to old trees, however. But following a wet late summer and autumn the growth is much less, simply because the store of organised mafeiial is small. In the case of matured trees something very different happens. A fine summer and autumn is then followed, not by an extra growth, but by an abundant crop of fruit, whether of Pears, Acoins, Cones, or Chestnuts matters not. This crop absorbs what the leaves elaborate, and the annual deposit of wood is small. But a spring frost may interfere, and then a thick layer of wood results. So after a dull wet year the crop of fruit may be small or nothing, and then the timber formed may be actually greater than after a good summer. The subject is complicated, so much so that the reading of the meteorological characters of bygone seasons by measuring the thickness cf annual timber rings is sure to lead to error ; not that any particular ring may not indicate the nature of the season in which it was made, but it may indicate something else. Aeration of Soils. — Is Mr. Taylor at page 191 altogether consistent 1 At one place he speaks of the advantage to the soil of aeration, and shows how best to secure it — namely, by the supply of abundance of water to soil “ thoroughly drained.” But he seems to think that this aeration is not necessary in flower pots; for them he would, under certain conditions, deprive of drainage altogether ! Is he not also wrong in saying that the sell in pots is too much aerated 1 Is he not putting the saddle on the wrong horse ? Bather is it not too rapid evaporation that dots the mischief ? And is it not that we seek to check when we plunge in shade our pots ? With nearly everything Mr. Taylor says we agree, but on the above points are sceptical. The Potato Fungus. — In Mr. Bravender’s report at page 191 there is a statement that seems to require explanation. Plentiful manuring, according to him, secures a greater “ margin of profit,” because it secures a larger crop ; but such Potatoes, though sound, have “ the mycelium of the fungus largely developed in them,” and are therefore unfit for seed. Only sound (or good) Potatoes are referred to, for there is “no objection to this”- — i.c., a heavy crop — “ if the produce is to be consumed,” and, of course, men do not consume diseased Potatoes. As really good seed cannot be produced except in the way Mr. Bravender condemns, it is possible his remarks may mislead. Deterioration, swift and sure, will certainly follow the adoption of his method of raising seed. In fact, such practices alone make change of seed so necessary. Highly nitrogenous manure certainly tends to produce disease by causing a too luxuriant top growth : the same thing causes a reduction of the crop. The application of proper mineral manures tends to the vigorous increase of crop without unduly forcing the tops ; and to disease-resisting varieties kept in the best vigour by the proper application'of manures we look for full crops of sound Potatoes in future. Time to Plant Potatoes. — Unlike the rest of your corre¬ spondents I have found that it is good to plant late Potatoes before the midseastn ones. The reason for this is that such as Victorias and Magnum Bonums come up a certain time after they aie planted, and always slowly. Planted at the end of March or beginning of April they come up at the end of May ; planted at the end of April they do not come up till June, and so some weeks of grow'ing weather is lost. Midseason varieties planted at the end of March are up by the end of April or beginning of May, and are almost certain to be cut down by frost ; planted towards the end of April they come up a month afterwards after the frosts are generally gone. Climate must determine the best time to plant, but I fear valuable time is sometimes lost by delaying the planting of late Potatoes, which come up slowly, until early kinds are planted, which come up rapidly. — Single-handed. BULBS UNDER TREES. Underneath a belt of large trees here the soil is crowded with bulbs. The trees, principally Beech and Elm, which are growing cn the east side of our lawn, were probably planted as a screen from the cutting east winds. Through these trees a gravel walk winds its way, on each side of which the display of violet Crocuses now ana for a month hence, especially when the sun shines, is a sight not readily forgotten. These bulbs predominate ; but besides these there are interspersed yellow' and w hite Crocuses, also Snowdrops and Narcissuses in variety. They require no attention, and receive none in any shape or form. As to when they' were first planted I have no means of ascertaining, but in all probability nearly half a century ago, and judging by their appearance they have not been disturbed during that time. That such bulbs will do well under trees ample proof is afforded here, and they ought to be planted in such positions in thousands. — J. Richardson, Calverton Hall. PRUNING ROSES. The result of the mild winter and severe spring is now con¬ spicuous amongst Roses of all kinds, and everybody is asking about pruning. The temperature ranged from 40° to 50° on every day in January and February, while the nights were correspondingly warm. The rainfall was also excessive, the total amount during the period named being nearly 6 inches in Surrey. Roses made growths from 2 to 3 inches long under those circumstances, many of them forming flower buds, w'hich might be easily per¬ ceived by pressure with the finger and thumb, such sorts as Madame Victor Verdier, Pierre Notting, and other dark varieties being the most prominent in this respect. Pruning away these growths is looked upon by some persons as detrimental to the future prosperity of the plant, while others are over-anxious, and prune very early. Where this has been done, we fear it has caused the bottom buds to start and hence sustain injury by the severe frosts. Late pruning is thus the safest plan to adopt in our fitful climate. As soon as mild weather returns we advise that all collections, especially in the south, be pruned without delay. Notwithstanding that young growths have issued not only from the extreme point but to some considerable distance down the stems, there will on examination be found almost at the base of last year’s growth some three or four dormant buds. All Hybrid Perpetuals should be now cut back to a prominent out-looking bud, the weak growths being entirely removed with the object of producing an open and well-balanced head of strong wood, while this in turn produces strong growths and fine flowers. The prominent buds of some varieties are easily distinguished, but with Baronne de Rothschild and that class of rigid growers they are not so readily perceived, and in these cases the strongest bud must be found and cut back to, whether it appears high or low on the shoot. The more we use the secateurs the better we like them for pruning Roses. The cut made by them is perhaps not so cleanly done as with the more ancient pruning knife, but the work is completed more expe¬ ditiously, and we have not found any harm accrue from the use of the former. The pruning of Hybrid Perpetuals, whether as standards or dwarfs, differs so little, that what is advised for one applies to the other ; only in the case of dwarfs, if a bank or bed is required to be covered, some of the strongest branches if cut back below the growth may be pegged dowh. We have seen some very good and early blooms produced from these. After pruning we dug the ground. This gives a neatness which is acceptable after the unattractive appearance of a rosery during the winter months. Teas and Noisettes are not as a rule cut back so hard as Hybrid Perpetuals, and in the case of Gloire de Dijon and such-like strong growers the weak and dead wood only requires removing and the points of the shoots shortened, but they will have to be pruned closer than usual this spring. Nearly all the Hybrid Chinas, Bourbons, Ayrshires, Banksians, evergreens, a9 well as the better known Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, and Noisettes, are suitable for walls and trellises. The majority of these ordinarily require but little pruning, merely the old, decayed, and weak wood being taken out and the extreme point of the shoots removed. Any young shoots made during the previous year from the base of the plant must be encouraged, and the older shoots cut away to make room for them. By attention periodically to this the base of the wall is prevented from becoming bare. — J. W. Moorman. CLIMBERS, OR ROOF-COVERING PLANTS. CLEMATIS INDIVISA. It is a question if so little has been written on any other plant of equal merit as of this beautiful greenhouse climber or roof plant. Of late years the attention that has been given, and worthily, to the ever-increasing and increasing beautiful garden varieties of Clematises would appear to have resulted in the claims of this most attractive species being almost entirely over¬ looked. It is questionable if there is any plant more effective and that will command more general admiration at this season of the year than Ckmatis indivisa as seen with its festoons of white flowers hanging from the roof of a greenhouse or conservatory. The plant grows freely and rapidly in a border of peat and loam, and also succeeds well and flowers profusely in pots. Its adapt¬ ability for pot culture we never saw so forcibly exemplified as in Messrs. W. Paul & Sons’ nurseries at Waltham Cross. Numbers of plants in?5-inch pots were laden with white star-like flowers so March 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 239 completely that the foliage was scarcely visible. These plants varied in height from 1 to 2 feet, and would have been an im¬ portant acquisition to any conservatory. The annexed figure is of a spray from one of these small plants, and the effect of a thousand of such panicles hanging from the roof of a house may be imagined. Clematis indivisa is a native of New Zealand, and has been in this country for many years. It is not a little surprising that it is not found in a great number of gardens, as it should be included in every select list of greenhouse climbers. Being an evergreen it has a neat and not uuattractive appearance after the flowers have faded, and it will grow in any cool house from which frost is exc-lu led. SO-CALLED LARGE BUNCHES OF GRAPES. I thank “ Druid ” and the Editor for forwarding to me a sample of what the former calls a “ so-called large bunch of Grapes.” I regret if my remarks appeared dogmatical, but I can hardly see how “ Druid ’’ can disclaim casting a slur on past exhibits. His first letter on this subject appeared to convey the idea that many of past large bunches were not “ Iona fide." From the sample sent I now quite understand what “Druid” means. The cluster sent is undoubtedly not a single bunch, but two distinct bunches. I have, however, seen many large bunches grown which were single bunches, and not clusters produced by manipulating. The true stem of a bunch is so different from the wood of a lateral that deception cannot be easy, and I do not think that many — if any — clusters, such as “ Druid ” writes about, have ever been passed off for single bunches. I again thank “Druid ” for sending what has enabled me to thoroughly understand what he meant, and trust he will pardon my misapprehension of what he intended to explain. — A Geowee. NORTHWARDS— ABOUT STIRLING. Now and then an out-of-the-way article on a subject not exclusively pertaining to gardening meets with favour¬ able reception from those readers who cannot always rest satisfied with digging and pruning and potting. Just as this work becomes monotonous at times, so does the narration of it become irksome, and especially when the plainest of plain routine is described over and over again in this paper, and that by the same pens — amounting to a mere ringing of the changes, with really no change at all beyond that from ding, ding, dong to dong, dong, ding. As change is certified by a high authority as only another word for rest, I will ask my audience to rest awhile from laborious work and accompany me in an afternoon's ramble in a district full of interest to all true Britons ; and to take a stand on an historic site where kings and warriors of the past have stood, not always looking on a scene so peaceful Fig. 63.— Clematis ikdiyisa. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 240 [ March 22, 1883. as we will look on now in all its pastoral beauty and rugged grandeur. We are on the ramparts of Stirling Castle, a fortress so old that its early history is lost in obscurity, and remarkable alike by its position and associations, for here kings have been born, im¬ prisoned, and died, and the fortress has been won and lost after long and desperate struggles more times than I can remember. But the period of turmoil is over ; and the English, dreaded once, and repulsed many times, are welcomed now, for Stirling is a great centre for tourists, and he must be hard to please who leaves the town dissatisfied with either the inhabitants or their beautiful district. Those readers of these notes, and they must be many, who have visited this romantic locality, will know that the castle rock rises abruptly to a height of some 300 or 400 feet from a level plain, and they will agree that those who have not seen it can form but a slight conception of its appearance and magnificent sur¬ roundings. It is pleasant to read of the delight that a visit to some fine old country seat affords ; its park and lake, woodlands, lawns, and gardens, are described in a manner to which they are j ustly entitled ; but from our standpoint a scene far grander than that from the most imposing of domestic terraces is spread out before us, and in which some half-dozen homes of the great are seen as the smallest features in the landscape. McNeil did not exaggerate when he penned the following lines on “ The Links of Forth: ” — “ O ! grander far than Windsor’s brow 1 And richer, too, the vale below I Whar Forth’s unrivall’d windings flow Through varied graine, Brightening, I ween, in glittering glow Sterlina’s plain. There raptured trace (enthroned on hie) The landscape stretching on the ee Frae Grampian heights down to the sea — A dazzling view I Corn, meadow, mansion, water, tree In varying hue.” That is a literally accurate description of the view before us. From one side we see the field of Bannockburn, where some four and a half centuries ago thirty thousand English troops were slain, and the statue of the conqueror Bruce, near which we stand, looks over the scene of his great victory. Entering by the drawbridge and passing through a pretty garden we look down from an almost dazzling height to the king’s park and garden below, now used as a recreation ground, and on the wooded heights in the distance is Polmaise Castle, the seat of Col. Murray. Looking towards the Garvan hills the eye rests on another ponderous rock, Abbey Craig, surmounted with the Wallace monument — an imposing tower, completed in 1869 in honour of the Scottish patriot, Sir William Wallace. This is a favourite place of public resort, and, to strangers especially, is not less interesting, as they have a view of no less than six battlefields, in two of which both Wallace and Bruce displayed their prowess. Surely this is a sufficiently out-of- the-way circumstance to entitle me to claim for these notes, as suggested, an “ out-of-the-way ” character. The tower of Cambuskenneth Abbey arrests notice ; it is very ancient, records pertaining to it nearly 1700 years ago still exist- ing. Also within easy range of the vision are Airthrey Castle, the seat of Lord Abercrombie of Aboukir ; Keir, described on page 550 last volume ; Drummond House, the seat of Charles Home Drum¬ mond Moray, Esq., of Blair Drummond ; Touch House, the seat of Sir Henry Seton Stewart, Bart. Still nearer the rugged eminence of Craigforth, while at our feet is the picturesque cemetery grounds which were purchased and laid out by that great benefactor and good man the late Mr. William Drummond, who further invested a sum of money for keeping them in order. It will be granted now our standpoint is commanding, and dwarfs by comparison the panoramas which are spread before mansions we are apt, and not unfairly, to call “ great.” Only one of the seats above men¬ tioned I had an opportunity of visiting, and am happy, therefore, in having an excuse to go to Stirling again ; but there was one little spot down in the carse below, and apparently not more than a mile distant, that I left behind even more reluctantly than all — the snug home of the famed octogenarian Auricula grower, Mr. Meiklejohn ; but the exigencies of Fleet Street permitted no delay, and for the same reason I was denied the anticipated pleasure of a gardener’s grasp with the “ Northern Amateur,” who writes so entertainingly on gardens and flowers in the north, and grows them so well but a few miles distant. Quite naturally, and almost unconsciously, I have glided into gardening. It is the usual re¬ sult. Start from whence I may I somehow “land” in a garden. And now for a violent plunge from battle fields to Orchids. Bn. PATERSON’S GARDEN. This is quite of an out-of-the-way character, but is not in an out-of-the-way place, for Bridge of Allan is very accessible, being the first station from Stirling on the highland route, and within two miles from the town. Of this village the local chronicler, Mr. Shearer (whose “ Guide ” all visitors should obtain), applies Goldsmith’s familiar lines as a “ word painting” — “ Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain ; ” and it is certainly charmingly situated, admirably sheltered, and salubrious. Dr. Paterson is an old and honoured resident of this popular watering place, and is famed for much more than Orchids ; but it is with these we have more immediately to deal. After seeing the splendid specimens from the Fernfield collection that were sold in Edinburgh in September, and w’hich realised some £800, and then visiting the houses in which they were grown a week afterwards and finding them yet well furnished, a stranger could not fail to be struck with astonish¬ ment. He would be excused even if he declared it impossible that such plants could have been grown in the small structures in the doctor’s villa garden ; but they were grown there, and hundreds still remain of great value and in superb health. If there are any individuals remaining who are deeply impressed with the idea that Orchid culture is difficult and costly, that expensive structures of some special design are requi¬ site, and that fuel must be consumed at an extravagant rate to maintain a high temperature, let them visit Fernfield, and all such notions will be dissipated in an hour. For gaining a lesson on Orchid culture made easy it would be a task to find a more com¬ petent tutor than Dr. Paterson. Long experience has shown that great results can be achieved with small conveniences and simple methods. Common sense and moderate temperatures appear to be the governing principles here. If the house is in any sense uncomfortable to the owner — too “ stuffy ” and oppressive — it is deemed unsuitable for the plants. Fresh air without draughts, a sweet genial atmosphere, and a temperature in which a person may remain for an hour with his coat on, is fairly characteristic of the doctor’s Orchid house, where Cattleyas, Vandas, Phalm- nopsids, and other forms flourish that are so often found languish¬ ing in excessive heat. Similar results may be seen in Mr. Smee’s rapidly growing collection of upwards of four hundred species at Wallington, where interesting experiments are being made, testing the effects of climatic influences on various plants. “ Admit air freely” is Dr. Paterson’s axiom, but (an important “but” this is) “always on the leeward side of the house.” Even with a door open on certain days there is no draught then, but a moist yet buoyant atmosphere can at the same time be maintained. Dry floors and houses with driving currents of air — always opening the ventilators on the same side of a house from whichever quarter the wind may be blowing — will ruin almost any Orchids, even “ cool house ” kinds ; while no amount of heat applied to tropical kinds can atone for that initial mistake. Such mistakes are never made by the doctor, and the still lingering dictum that high temperatures are indispensable for Orchids is emphatically dis¬ pelled by the admirable condition of his plants. And now as to the costliness of culture, the evidence of the sale referred to may be adduced. A grand example of Cattleya labiata Warneri with seventy-nine bulbs and sixty leaves realised forty-five guineas ; C. labiata and C. Trianse Symei thirty-nine guineas each, and C. Mendeli twenty-seven guineas ; Dendrobium thyrsiflorum Walkerianum thirty-seven guineas ; Ltelia anceps Barkeri twenty-six guineas ; Aerides Fieldingi twenty-five guineas ; Vanda tricolor Patersoni twenty-one guineas ; An- graecum sesquipedale eighteen guineas, and so on, until the above-named total of £800 was reached ; and this out of three small houses in which scores of pounds worth were left behind, one house being, perhaps, 15 feet square, the other two collectively about 30 feet long by 12 feet wide, plain span-roofs, such as are usually devoted to Pelargoniums and Fuchsias, Coleuses, Bego¬ nias, and Balsams. So far from Orchid culture being costly, the “ weight of evidence ” tends to show that it is, when well con¬ ducted, decidedly profitable, for on the debtor side we have only to enter the doctor’s leisure hours in potting and watering, assisted by a woman labourer for sponging the plants and keeping the houses clean, and the fuel. This is a comparatively small item where the temperature by fire heat ranges from 50° to 60°, and the position is sheltered, as it is in this case, by the Orchids on the east and well-wooded rising ground on the north. It is a simple fact that no more costfis incurred here in growing plants of such great value than is usually involved in the culture of ordinary stove and greenhouse plants. These small Orchid houses must have been densely crowded before the sale, seeing that they are full now ; the plants, how¬ ever, being smaller are arranged on stages, while previously the large specimens were stood on the ash-covered floor. Instead of March 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 241 vars giving a list of some of the plants in the collection after the sale, an enumeration of those flowering in February will better show what can be done and is accomplished in three small houses by an accomplished amateur. The list now published has been obligingly sent by “A Northern Amateur” who has recently visited Dr. Paterson, and was most agreeably entertained at Fernfield, as all visitors are of kindred tastes with the genial owner. Oncnins m Bloom at Fernfield, Bridce of Allan, in February, 1883. Aerides Fielding! „ Leeanum ,, roseum „ vandarum Angraecum citratum „ Ellisii „ sesquipedale Calanthe Veitchii Gattleya bulbosa „ Gaskel liana (showing fine spathe) „ Trianae (grand var. and fine plant) Chysis bractescens Ccelia macrostachya Coelogyne cristata ,» ocellata flacoida CjTmbidium Lowianum (splendid var.) „ sinense „ ebumeum Cypripedium Dayanum „ Harrisianum „ insigne n longifolium „ Man lei „ pardinum „ Roezlii u Schlimii „ Sedeni ,, venustum „ villosum Dendrobinm bigibbum „ Farmeri „ Findleyanum „ infundibulum „ Jamesianum „ nobile coerulescens „ Pierardi „ Wardianum „ cambridgeannm „ Freemanii Epidendrum ciliare „ erectum „ latifolium „ rhizophorum Godyera discolor Leptotes bicolor Lrelia acuminata „ albida var. pulcliella ,, anceps Barkeriana „ harpophylla „ superbiens Lycaste Skinneri (several flower, one grand) „ macrophylla Masdevallia ignea „ ochtodes „ S’nuttleworthii „ Tovarensis Neottia maculata Odontoglossum Alexandra; (one var. yellow, fine and rare) „ bictonense „ Bluntii „ constrictum „ cordatum „ gloriosum „ Pescatorei „ pulchellum „ roseum Oncidium aurosum „ incurvum „ serratum „ tigrinum „ Weltoni Phalsenopsis Schilleriana(large branch¬ ing spike) „ Luddemanniana Pilumna fragrans „ ossolata maxima Saccolabium giganteum Fophronitis grandiflora Uropedinm Lindenii (showing three fine spikes) V anda Cathcarti „ furva „ lamellata Boxalli Zygopetalum Maekayii „ Hookeri While the above list indicates the character of the Ferndale collection, it is only in a degree, many rare and valuable plants in the best of condition not being in flower. These it is impossible to enumerate, and it can only be added that if anyone wants to see Orchid-growing made easy, and the most made of small means, let him pay a visit to Dr. Paterson at the Bridge of Allan, and he will be a very wise man indeed if he does not gain a hint that will he useful from the veteran orchidist who has proved his competency by such results that have seldom, if ever, been surpassed in such circumscribed limits as three miniature structures in a villa garden of the total extent of perhaps half an acre. In the “ grounds” of such a place not much can be expected that is noteworthy, yet there was a little in September. For instance, Masdevallia melanopses had been growing in the rockery for four months ; Podophyllum peltatum was growing as if wild in a Rhodo¬ dendron bed; Retinosporas were, and are, as fine as could he ex¬ pected, if not finer, for R. plumosa is about 10 feet high, R. squarrosa 12 feet, R. pisifera still higher, all being proportionally broad and well furnished, while Abies grandis is grand indeed. Yet just one other plant.must be mentioned, an altogether out-of-the-way plant — in fact such a specimen as was, perhaps, never before seen — a Wall¬ flower. And what about it ? Well it was 9 feet high ! one straight spike ripening seed. Besides the most modern of Orchids in the greenhouse, ancient historic relics may be seen in the study, for the Doctor is an archaeologist as well as an orchidist ; yet amongst all his treasures nothing is more prized than his mementos of Queen Victoria, received on the occasion of presenting Her Majesty with a beautiful bouquet of Orchids at Perth. — J. Wright. New Fuchsia, Mrs. Bundle. — I saw this advertised, or referred to by some passing visitor to Swanley last year in the Journal, and soon after was fortunate in obtaining a cutting. It has proved a vigorous grower, and, so far as I can form an opinion, is a distinct improvement on Arabella Improved. That, to my mind, in most respects it resembles, more than it does Lord Beaconsfield. Mr. Cannell deserves great credit as the raiser of this fine variety, for which, I see by your last issue, a first-class certificate was awarded at the last meeting of the Floral Committee of the Royal Horticul¬ tural Society. I shall try a small plant plunged in the border later on for flowering in winter. — W. J. M., Clonmel. AURICULAS. Your correspondents “ D., Deal ,” and Mr. J. Luck seem to have a strange notion about strains of this favourite spring florist’s flower. “ D., Deal's," friend is said to have a fine strain of Colonel Taylor. The plants which he has must be either Colonel Taylor or they are not. If they are Colonel Taylor then they must be the same as the Colonel Taylor of any other grower ; but if the plants he has give better flowers than Colonel Taylor they cannot he the Colonel, and he should give them another name, and say who raised them. The same remark applies to every other variety. 11 D., Deal," asks where the green-edged variety of Oliver’s Lovely Ann originated, as it was sent out as a grey edge. I understand it was sent out as a green edge, but, like a number of greens, is somewhat inconstant. If the truss is from the heart of the plant it is almost certain to be grey ; but if the truss comes from the side it is almost as certain to be green. “ Wbat is the cause of this ? ” I think I hear him ask. Well, my theory is this. A number of varieties have the outer leaves quite green — entirely destitute of farina — but have the centre a little mealed. Lovely Ann is one of these. The truss coming from the side has no meal on it, whereas that from the centre partakes of the meally nature of the centre, converting the green into a grey. This is of course open to question, as some of our finest seifs have very white foliage. Both your correspondents seem to have misfortunes with their plants as other growers have. I think it is likely that the plants they complain of are the offspring of starved plants, and I believe the mode they have adopted to restore them is the best — namely, a change of soil whether it be in pot or frame. See that the carrot is sound, keep them from blooming, and they will soon regain vigour. — W. S. B. HEPATICA TRILOBA. One of the most attractive hardy plants that commences to flower in February is the subject of this note. This season they have been particularly showy on account of the mildness of the winter. They last several weeks in perfection, and for spring bedding they are admirably adapted, also for planting at intervals in the mixed border — in fact planted anywhere, they could not fail to be appreciated when in flower. Where spring bedding is carried out the Hepaticas make a splendid edging. The colours of the flowers are much in their favour. Red, or more strictly speaking pink, white, and blue, are colours that are very suitable and easily matched. I find they are by no means fastidious as to soil, doing equally well on stiff clay as on a lighter soil, but with us they grow stronger if slightly shaded with trees. They are readily propagated either by seed or division. If it is intended to propagate by seeds the seed should be gathered before it is thoroughly ripe, and dried in paper to prevent its shedding. As soon as sufficiently ripe, which in good seasons will be about May, it should be at once sown in pans and placed in a cold frame. If the seed is good it will germinate through the autumn. The seedlings should be potted as soon as sufficiently large, and allowed to remain in the pots till they have flowered, by which means the colours can be tested, so as to prevent confusion in planting. I find this a very variable plant from seed. Division of the root no doubt is the quickest and most certain method. Hepatica triloba when not in flower is attractive on account of its shining trilobed foliage. There are several distinct varieties of this species : single rose, blue, and white, also double rose and double blue. They are, however, all worth growing either separately or in mixture. — G .W. SEASONABLE NOTES ON FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. Auriculas. — The cold wave, or whatever we may please to call it, which visited us on the 5th of March and continues up to the present date (ICth), has considerably altered the prospects and hopes of Auricula growers as far as early flowering is con¬ cerned, and will, I fear, in other respects be damaging ; and it is here that those who possess heated structures, if they use them judiciously, have an advantage over those who do not possess them. When the earth is frost-bound, and when — as there has been with me — nearly 8 inches of snow, and the frames are covered with it, it is not only impossible to apply water, but plants 242 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 22, isss. stand still ; and, what is probably worse, the young bloom is affected by the frost, and the pips then become ill-shaped ; for although the Auricula is an alpine plant, and although — notwith¬ standing the manner in which it has been changed by cultivation — it will stand severe frost without the plant being killed, the bloom suffers materially from the effects of frost. We are now within an appreciable distance (five weeks) of the exhibition day, and it strikes me that it will be very difficult for those who have not the advantage of heat to have their plants in bloom for that time ; while many who, like myself, consider fire heat injurious to the Auricula, would hesitate to use it even if they had it at com¬ mand. On one point on which I have strenuously contended against the feature recommended by the National Auricula So¬ ciety (southern section) — viz., using stakes for the flowering stems, I find that the resuscitated Bradford Auricula Society makes the use of them a disqualification — another proof to me that the north is the true home of the florist. Carnations and Picotees. — Here again, although not to so great an extent, the cold weather of the last fortnight has inter¬ fered with the well-being of the plants. I have not seen mine during that time, as there has been 4 inches of snow on the frame ; but as they were tolerably dry I hope and believe that not much harm has resulted from their forced imprisonment, as they were pretty dry before the hard weather set in. Gladioli. — No planting has as yet taken place, but I shall com¬ mence as soon as the ground and the weather are suitable. I may here refer to “ W. J. M.’s” notes in last week’s Journal as to the statement made by him and denied by me that Mr. Banks left his Gladioli in the ground. He says that his informant, noticing my note, again told him that Mr. Banks had stated that one season the frost overtook him before he had finished taking up his bulbs, and that he would fain make that corroborative of his former statement. It seems to me just the reverse, as it shows that he always took up his bulbs, and that it was only by an accident that some that season were not harvested as usual. I do not think that the depth of planting has much influence, and the idea that 6 inches is too much and prevented the bulbs from coming up, and hence their loss, is falsified by my experience. Last year my best bed was planted from potted roots, all of which had made G to 8 inches of growth before they were planted, and yet many of these failed. As to the seeding, many of mine were cut off for the sake of the blooms for indoor decoration, and yet these died quite as much as others that were left. I have no trees any¬ where near my beds, and yet the corms fail. I have found with “ VV. J. M.” the whites most difficult to keep. Madame Desportes, Ondine, Shakspeare, and others seem most susceptible of disease. The first of these I have given up as hopeless, and I fancy the same difficulty is experienced with it across the Channel, for it keeps up its price while others sent out the same year are to be had for a few pence ; and I am inclined to think that “ W. J. M.’s” future experience will tend to confirm my views on the whole subject. If care and trouble would help me I should begrudge neither for a flower of which I am immensely fond. Ranunculus. — My bed of these was planted when the ground was in good condition, but what the result of this severe weather on them will be 1 cannot tell. I fear it will not be favourable. I have been much struck with the effect of the very wet weather on the Turban Ranunculus ; those which I planted in October are only just making their appearance. This I can only attribute tc the excessive coldness of the ground and the absence of sunlight. Pinks and Pansies have had a hard time of it. Slugs have been busy at them, the wet has been very trying, and now that this severe frost has come on them they look miserable indeed. They will, as soon as the ground becomes a little drier, have to be examined and fixed securely in the ground. Those who have Pansies in pots will now be looking for the earliest blooms, and in every way, with us in the southern parts of the kingdom, this is the most satisfactory way of growing them. I have often envied the beautiful plants out of doors in Scotland and the north ; but we cannot have everything, and I rather think in our “ Garden of England ” we have the best of it. — D., Deal. CULTURE OF CALANTHES. Calanthes rank amongst the most useful winter-flowering Orchids we have, and the easiest to cultivate. Anyone having a few bulbs may easily raise a good stock, especially of C. Veitchii, which is about the best and most effective. The only dis¬ advantage connected with Calanthes is that the foliage fades when the plants flower, but that is remedied by placing the pots amongst Ferns, from amongst which the spikes arch gracefully. The best time to repot Calanthes is just when they commence growing. Those who have only a few bulbs will find it best to pot them singly in small 48’s in the following compost — two parts of fibry loam, one part of peat, and one part of well-decayed cow manure, with a liberal sprinkling of silver sand and charcoal. The pots should be three parts filled with drainage. Place them in a temperature of 65°, but do not give any water until the bulbs commence growing, and they should only have just sufficient to make the compost moist until they are well rooted, after which they should be well supplied. After the pots have become filled with roots the plants will be greatly benefited by liberal applica¬ tions of liquid manure, and the atmosphere must be well charged with moisture. When the flowers show colour the atmosphere must be kept drier ; when in bloom a temperature of about G0° suits them admirably, and they will last a long time in full beauty. After the flower spikes have decayed no water should be given until their growing season again commences. — A. Young. #5 WORK,FOiHHEWEEK,. 1 111 W/A ^ ' \1 lr>T7 UlSfei: \By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments .] HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. Protection. — Recent frosts have been so severe that buds of early-blossoming Pears have suffered in a few instances where the trees could not be covered. Warm sunny days followed by cold frosty nights may lead to further injury. Watch the progress of the buds closely and give shelter promptly as it becomes neces¬ sary, a single night’s exposure may now destroy the blossom. Whatever is done for protection should be as thorough as possible ; therefore carefully consider ways and means, and only do what can be well done. Far better is it to save the crop of half a dozen trees, if to protect them thoroughly exhausts the time and means at disposal, than to spend strength in vain efforts to protect half a hundred. See that every appliance for shelter is made secure ; tender buds and flowers have not unfrequently been battered to pieces in a high wind by mats or tiffany blown loose. Coping boards afford shelter from frost to wall trees, but they do very little good alone when severe frost is accompanied by high winds, as it has been so frequently of late. Stout tiffany stretched on poles thrust into the ground and fastened to coping boards serves admirably as a screen, and will preserve the blossom from injury in very cold weather. General Hints. — The nearness of Lady-day reminds us that it is the season for a change of residence for many owners of small gardens. To all such the cold weather will be welcome, as it has much retarded the growth of fruit trees. Not a day should be lost in filling any vacancies, and by the exercise of due care there is no reason why the trees should not only live but make a fair growth this year. The points of especial importance for such late planting are enriching the soil with sufficient well-decayed manure to induce a quick, strong, free root-action, mulching the entire surface of the station with rough half-decayed manure, securing the tree firmly by means of wire or stakes, and by frequent subsequent waterings not only in dry weather, but every week when there is no rain, of an hour or two’s duration. All neglected pruning should also be done speedily. Be not rash or hasty in the treatment of trees of doubtful aspect. Barren¬ ness or decay are, however, not difficult to discover, and the con¬ dition of each tree can alone suggest the right remedy — it may be a simple re-invigoration by means of fresh soil and manure to the roots, or the barren time-worn appearance of branch and spur may point to a necessity for shortening each branch to within a foot of the stem, and grafting each of them, so that every scion may form a branch. We have found this plan answer admirably, affording a supply of fruit much sooner than if the old tree had been replaced by a young one. The process of grafting has so recently been explained that we need not enter upon it. Now is the time to do it, and remember the three conditions necessary to success are a connection of the inner bark of stock and scion, binding them together securely, and the exclusion of air from the wounds or cut parts by wax or clay. FRUIT-FOR‘CING. Peaches and Nectarines. — The fruit in the early house being about stoning will need to have the temperature kept as equable as possible until the trees have passed through this critical period. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 22, 188S. ] 243 A night temperature of 60°, with 5® more in the day from fire heat, ought not to be exceeded, with a rise of 10° to 15° on sunny days. In dull sunless weather a few degrees lower will be safer than an increase of temperature by fire heat alone. Syringe the trees twice a day with tepid soft water, as spring water is likely to leave a sediment on the fruit and seriously disfigure it. Admit a little air early, gradually increasing it as the sun heat increases, until the maximum for the day is reached ; yet be cautious in ad¬ mitting air by the front sashes in cold windy weather, as cutting draughts may have disastrous results. Tie-in young growths as they advance, and avoid overcrowding, which is one of the great¬ est evils in Peach -forcing. Stop the laterals at the first joint, and shoots retained to attract the sap to the fruit at the second or third leaf, and to one leaf afterwards as it is produced. Train the leading shoots their full length, and do not stop them until the limit of the trellis is reached, as the wood can hardly be too strong provided there is plenty of room for exposing the foliage fully to light and air. Proceed with disbudding in succession houses, leaving no more shoots than will cover the trellis evenly at 12 to 18 inches apart ; and shoots from the base of the present bearing wood, and to take its place next season, must not be overcrowded. Tie down the shoots and thin the fruit by degrees, leaving those most favour¬ ably situated for swelling to maturity. Green aphis, if it makes its appearance, must be destroyed by fumigation on calm evenings, having the foliage dry. Trees in succession houses must be well supplied with water whenever the borders show symptoms of dry¬ ness. Syringe twice a day, and keep the temperature at 55° to 60° by artificial means, with 10° to 15° rise from sun heat. Trees in flower should have a temperature of 50° to 55° by fire heat, and G0° to 70 from sun heat, ventilating freely ; and where bees do not visit the flowers shake the trees, or, better, brush the flowers over with a camel’s-hair brush on fine days. Syringing will not be needed, but the floors and borders should be damped twice daily, as a genial condition of the atmosphere is essential to the health of the trees. Late houses are now in fine bloom and promise well. These should be kept well ventilated and the atmosphere dry, as the blossom will endure a low night temperature provided the house is dry, but frost should be excluded ; and to secure a good set the temperature should be raised to 50° in the daytime, air being admitted on all favourable occasions. Melons. — These, despite the weather, have made good progress, and the earliest are swelling freely. They have been earthed, and the full complement should now be given if not already done. Stopping the growth at every joint as it is made must be the order of the day, and where the shoots are likely to interfere with the principal foliage they must now be well thinned. Remove all flowers, and place tables or other means of support to the fruits before they become very heavy. Examine the soil at the roots, and see that the plants do not suffer by want of water ; and as they will now be in condition to take a little weak liquid manure, it should be given in a tepid state, avoiding watering close to the stem to avoid canker, which if it appear should have quicklime rubbed well into the affected parts. Keep the bottom heat steady at 80° to 85°, maintaining a night temperature of 65° to 70°, 70° to 75° by day, and a maximum of 90° from sun heat, admitting a little air early, but avoid currents of cold air. Syringe twice a day in bright weather, but only damp the paths and walls on dull days. Keep the evaporation troughs filled with liquid manure. Attend to stopping, tying, and thinning in succession houses, and impregnate the blossoms on fine days. Cucumbers. — Attend to tying, stopping, and thinning the shoots, and remove superfluous fruit, as nothing so enfeebles the plants as overbearing. Plants in full bearing require copious appli¬ cations of liquid manure, especially those having the roots in a somewhat confined space. Syringe the plants freely on fine days, wetting every part, as cleanliness is essential to their health¬ fulness. Admit air early but cautiously, avoiding cutting winds, and close early with plenty of atmospheric moisture. Keep the bottom heat at from 80° to 85°, night temperature 65° to 70°, allowing an advance from sun heat to 85° or 90°. Add more soil to the ridges or hillocks as the roots protrude. Keep the evapora¬ tion troughs charged with liquid manure. Remove from the plants any unsightly or damaged leaves as quickly as they appear, and keep a sharp look-out for insects, and if they appear promptly apply approved remedies. PLANT HOUSES. Orchids. — In this department top-dressing and repotting where necessary should be pressed forward with all possible speed. The pots prepared for the reception of the plants should be well and liberally drained by half or three parts filling them with broken crocks, according to the different requirements of the plants. The material used for drainage should be washed clean. Pay particular attention to the drainage, for if this is deficient and water be allowed to stagnate and make the soil sour the root3 will not long remain healthy. Aerides, Vandas, and Sacco- labiums may be commenced with, and should always be operated upon just before they start into growth, also Cattleyas and Lmlias. If any of the above have become tall they can, if the top roots are healthy and abundant, have the lower portion removed and be lowered in their pots. When the plants are turned out of their pots remove all decomposed material from amongst their roots. The above thrive best when the pots in which they are grown are nearly filled with crocks, and charcoal carefully laid amongst their lower roots, the others elevated above the rim of the pots with living sphagnum. Dendrobium nobile, D. Wardianum, D. crassinode, and others that have commenced growth can also be repotted or placed in larger baskets if they require them. Use for these two parts of fibrous peat to one of moss, with a moderate proportion of charcoal and a little sand ; the last is not required for those growing in baskets. Phalasnopses do best in baskets or in pans suspended from the roof, and if they require larger sizes nearly fill the baskets used with charcoal. Place over this a little moss, and then fill in amongst the roots with the same material and broken charcoal or small crocks. The moss will grow freely if these plants receive that abundant supply of water they really require while in active growth. Suspend them in the most moist and shaded position in the house in which they are grown. Afford these plants a temperature of 65° by night, with a rise of 5° or 10° by day. Many Cattleyas and Oncidiums, with Dendrobium thyrsiflorum, D. densiflorum, D. suavissimum, and others of this type, may still be at rest ; but this entirely depends upon the time they completed their growth or the date they are wanted to flower. When wanted in flower late, and retarding is necessary, give a long season of complete rest. It is much better to retard the plants now than when they have started into activity, and the season’s growth be injured in consequence. Those that have started into growth should have a night temperature of 60°, with a corresponding rise of 5° or 10° by day. Cattleyas and others still at rest may have a lower temperature of 5° or io0 by night, while Dendrobiums can be kept quite cool if dry at the roots and cold draughts are avoided. Water Cattleyas carefully, for they require less moisture at the roots while in active growth than do many Orchids. If over¬ watered and the atmosphere is overcharged with moisture they are not unfrequently subject to spot. Nearly all the occupants of the cool house, if they have been subject to a night temperature of 50°, may now be potted and top-dressed without delay. Give Odontoglossums and Masdeval- lias equal parts of fibrous peat and moss to grow in, with a little charcoal broken small. Ccelogynes succeed well in a similar com¬ post, while Lycastes, Epidendrums, and Maxillarias may have two- thirds of good peat to one of moss, with coarse sand and charcoal added. Do not give the plants water for two or three days prior to repotting, and water carefully afterwards until the roots have commenced working. The blinds should now be pre¬ pared and drawn down for a few hours during the brightest part of the day over Odontoglossums and other shade-loving plants that have been repotted. Greenhouse. — To have a fine display of Chrysanthemums next autumn and winter propagation should now be attended to. The present time is early enough to insert cuttings for all decorative purposes and for supplying cut flowers, and can, if inserted at once, be grown rapidly from the time they are rooted without any check. No advantage is gained by rooting the plants earlier for these purposes. Insert the cuttings singly in small pots and place them in handlights in a temperature of 50° to 55°, shade from strong sun, and keep them close and moist until they are rooted. Where large bushes of Pompons or any dwarf-growing varieties are wanted insert two or three cuttings in one pot and grow them together. As soon as the young plants are rooted pinch out the points and harden them gradually, so that by the time they are ready for 4-inch pots they can be placed in cold frames. Sow seed of Chinese Primulas for early autumn flowering in pans or pots liberally drained and filled with a light compost consisting of half leaf soil. Scatter fine leaf soil freely over the surface of the pans, and then sow the seed without covering it ; water with a fine-rose can, and cover with a square of glass, placing them in heat, shading the pots from the sun. On no account must the surface of the soil become dry, and if it can be kept moist without being watered the seed will germinate the more freely. The pots, therefore, should always stand on a moist base, and not on open trelliswork or the dry shelf of a greenhouse. 244 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 22, 1883. II • ! • I • ! • 1 • 1 • i • ! • • 1 • 1 • l • 1 - 1 • J - 1 • l - I * 4 • 1 • 1 • 1 • l -ft • l • i • l • l* HE BEE-KEEPER. | BEES AMONGST SNOW. In the changing and uncertain 'climate of Great Britain showers and falls of snow are not uncommon in the month of March, and sometimes we have had such in April. Experienced bee-keepers know that while snow is on the ground or around an apiary bees should never be allowed to leave their hives. During frosty weather they will not venture out, but when the thermometer rises and snow begins to melt the bees venture to fly, and in doing so many perish. They seem to be dazzled and bewildered by the light, and rapidly fall into the snow, and become motionless in a moment. The heat of their bodies melts soft snow, causing them to sink about an inch in it. When snow is crusted on the surface bees on touching it lose the power of their feet and legs by a kind of paralysis, and many of them are unable to take wing, roll on to their backs, and speedily perish. Many hives are weakened — some are destroyed by loss of bees in snow. This is well known. The severity of the present frost and its continuance in the middle of March is a new experience to British bee-keepers. The past winter was mild and favourable for bees. At the end of January hives were strong, and the bees of many of the hives in this section of the country began to breed, then when Snowdrops and Crocuses came into flower the bees in great numbers were seen on them. Some of the strongest hives had two and three seams of brood sealed, and doubtless much brood unsealed. At the beginning of March we had several days of cold and cutting winds, so cold that bees would not leave their nests for food ; afterwards severe frost set in, bringing down the mercury of the thermometer at nights below 20° ; one morning, the 10th of March, to 13°, or 19° of frost. The frost still continues, and snow is now falling in Cheshire on this the lGth of March. If the frost had come a month sooner little harm would have been done to hives. In my time we have never before experienced such severe and continuous frost in the brood-rearing season, and therefore I can¬ not speak from experience as to the extent of the injury probably done to the brood during the last fortnight. We know that bees dislike cold winds even in April and May, and in order to protect their brood then from chilliDg winds they contract their doors with compact masses of their own bodies. In the months of April, May, and June bees spread the eggs of their queens as widely as they can be covered and hatched, and when cold winds come they endeavour to keep them out by blocking or corking their door¬ ways. Hives are numerically weak in March generally speaking, and in severe weather, such as we have now, the bees have two difficulties to contend against — viz., first, their inability to feed and nurse their brood ; and secondly, their inability to keep it warm enough. In cold weather bees are very helpless creatures. In winter and early spring bee-masters will do well to give them all the protection possible. Before the present frost set in hives were in capital condition, and fruit trees covered with blossom buds, giving bee-keepers good hopes of early swarms and great results, and therefore this severe and unexpected weather is the more disappointing. Bv-and-by we shall learn what real harm, if any, has been done by it beyond stopping progress for a season, — A. Pettigrew. BEE-FEEDEBS. The interesting article on bee-feeders hy “ Y. B. A. Z.” appears to he particularly valuable at the present time, inasmuch as his verdict, after reviewing a three-shilling, a two-shilling, and a six¬ penny feeder, is in favour of the latter. In these days of expensive hives with expensive appliances the saving of 1.?. 6rZ. or 2s. G d. for each hive, where many are kept, is a matter of consideration, but if the owner of the said hives be a cottager the economy is a real boon. The points mentioned as requisite for a stimulative feeder — namely, the power to give much or little, prevention of robbing, ease of application, are in the first and second instances fully sustained hy the vulcanite stage and feeding shovel, and I might add flower¬ pots ; hut the ease of application may he made still easier hy a slight alteration which I would submit for “Y. B. A. Z.’s ” approval. The device is exceedingly simple, and, moreover, cheap, id. being an outside figure for each complete feeder. Before explaining it, perhaps it would be well to state the necessities that suggested the contrivance. The defective principle on which “socket” feeders are constructed is most clearly set forth, hut my experience with those, though not actually Mr. Blow’s, was attended with more direful results than those mentioned by “Y. B. A. Z.” Besides finding that bees took their “half pint regular” in spite of a “ temperance movement,” I have more than once flooded a colony hy lifting off a half-emptied bottle when preparing for examination, and instead of lifting off the cover with the bottle, left that useful appendage in the socket fast and firm. Doubtless this was careless. “Very!” I hear it muttered, hut the fact remains that many of these feeders are made too beautifully exact. After using for some time the wood swells, and thus gets a firm grip of the inverted cover, which is difficult to extract, even with the help of a screwdriver or some such tool. It occurred to me, therefore, to dispense with the assistance of the socket, and to make the stage as follows. Take two pieces of three-eighth red deal 5 inches square. Place them together cross way of the grain to prevent warping, and fasten them together with wire nails. Bore two 1-inch auger holes, or larger. Tack over these a piece of wire cloth 4 inches square. This com¬ pletes the stage. Any wide-mouthed bottle will do provided the rim is even. (Kuh on a rough paving stone if not square.) These have tin caps, which I order without any holes in, so that I can please myself as to number and place hy punching them as re¬ quired. My tinman charges 1.?. a dozen for these caps — be would doubtless be glad to make them in unlimited quantities — so that if the bottle he reckoned at 2d. and the wire cloth and wood Id., the feeder complete costs id. Of course it is an advantage to have a supply of these caps with the holes pierced in a variety of numbers, that fast or slow feeding may be regulated hy changing one for another. The ease of application is obvious. All that needs to be done is to fill the bottle, put on the cap, and place on the stage in the same manner as the two-shilling feeder. The feeding shovel is dispensed with, there is delusive half plate of imperforated zinc between the cap and the bottle, and no sticking fast of the cap in the socket. — H. V. Edwards. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Ormiston & Renwick, Melrose. — List of Farm Seeds and Potatoes. John Forbes, Hawick, N.B. — Descriptive Catalogue of Florists’ Flowers , Ferns, t fc. Vilmorin, Andrieux & Co., 4, Quai de la Megisserie, Paris. — Cata¬ logue of Seeds of Trees and Shrubs. James Lye, Clyffe Hall, Market Lavington, Wilts. — List of New Fuchsias. Louis de Smet, Ledeberg-lez-Gand, Belgium. — Supplementary Cata¬ logue of Plants. A. M. Scipion Cochet, Grisy-Suisnes (Seine et Marne), France. — Catalogue of Poses, Trees, and Plants. B. W. Warhurst, 33, Highgate Road, Kentish Town, N.W. — List of Boilers. *** All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. “ Single-handed ” (A. il. E., Gateshead). — Your extremely kind letter and substantial expression of sympathy towards our correspondent have been forwarded to him, and cannot fail to do him good. Vines (II. S.). — Owing to great pressure on our columns answers to your questions, which are not urgent, must be deferred until next week, when we hope to be able to make the matter clear to you. Various (F. C.). — Continue stopping your Vines as usual. There is nothing on the Apricot wood except scale, and the petroleum and softsoap mixture will destroy it. The globules on the leaves are indicative of health. The white flower is Leucojum vernum, the scarlet one Aionsoa Warscewiczii. The weed is quite shrivelled. Our reply must be brief, as we go to press earlier this week. We may possibly refer to your letter again. Fir Tree Oil (J. Garrett). — Try a dessert-spoonful of the oil in a wine- bottle full of rain water. This will probably answer your purpose for using with the spray-diffuser. If it neither kills the insects nor injures the plants you can March 22, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 245 easily add more oil ; but you will act safely by trying a weak solution first. Shake the bottle well before using the insecticide. Camellias ( Ignoramus ). — The presence of the glutinous liquid on the leaves indicates that there are insects either on the plants, or some other plants near to them, or on the roof above. You had better ascertain by a close ex¬ amination if this is not the case, and if it is not you might write to us again enclosing a few of the Camellia leaves. More will be written on Camellias in an early issue. Vine not Breaking (Inquirer). — The Buckland Sweetwater does not always break so freely as the Black Hamburgh. All you can do is to syringe the Vines a few times a day in fine weather with tepid water, and, if all the buds do not start, probably sufficient will do so to furnish the Vine. It is not uncom¬ mon to find far too many laterals on Vines, the result being crowded and undeveloped foliage, and consequently inferior Grapes. Flower Boxes (M. F., Farnham). — We do not know the address of a “ wholesale firm that makes tin and wooden boxes for sending cut flowers in,” as we have never seen them advertised. Mr. Lovel of Weaverthorpe, York, has advertised neat, light, and strong cardboard boxes for flowers, and you might send to him for his price list with the view of obtaining samples of different sizes. We have many times received flowers in those boxes as fresh as when cut from the plants_when the boxes had been lined with a few soft green leaves of any kind. Horticultural Appliances Exhibition (J. E. D.). — The date of this Exhibition was entered in “ Coming Events ” last week because the show had been advertised to open on the day indicated. We have received no notification of the postponement of the Exhibition, but have heard, unofficially, that the open¬ ing has been deferred to some date at present unknown to us. Cannas ( E . Fisher). — These vary greatly in height, and also differ iu the colour of the foliage and flowers. If you desire both plants of the same variety, and this to have scarlet flowers, you may grow C. Van Houttei, which has handsome purplish bronze foliage. It attains a good size and flowers freely. If you prefer a green-leaved variety with yellow flowers, C. Annei grandiflora is one of the best. Blood Manure (C. Bateson). — We have communicated with Sir Daniel Cooper on this subject, and he informs us that the gentleman who gave him the recipe is dead. We have ascertained the chemicals named do not have the effect desired. In all probability a much larger quantity of them must be used. This we have not yet had time to ascertain. If you make further experiments we shall be obliged if you would let us know the results. Frost and Fruit Blossom ( Thornton Stewart). — We fear the blossoms you have sent are seriously injured, but they are not sufficiently advanced for being examined satisfactorily. The stamens are fresh, but the pistils of several of them at least are killed. Most of the flowers, we think, will expand, but few will be followed by fruit. This is only what might be expected, since you state that the mercury of the thermometer fell to zero. This is extraordinary for the month of March. You did not state the date of this remarkable frost, but only the day— Saturday. We presume it would be the 10th inst. Potting Camellias ( C . P. L.). — Are you sure your plants need repotting ? If you state their size and condition, also the size of the pots, we can, perhaps, better answer your question. Turning the plants out of the pots, rectifying the drainage, removing an inch or two of the surface soil and adding fresh compost, is often a safer practice than repotting. Perhaps the notes on Camellias in our last issue, which you had not seen when you wrote to us, may be of service to you, and others will follow as soon as possible, that may be still more applicable to your particular case. You may safely wait the issue of these notes, and in the meantime send the particulars suggested, and we shall be glad if we can aid you. Tuberoses not Growing (Idem).— You say you “ potted the bulbs in January', placed the pots in an intermediate house, gave no water, but allowed the soil to be dust dry,” and then ask what you have “ done wrong, as the bulbs do not start into growth.” You have done wrong by keeping the soil so dry. Nothing can grow in “dust dry” soil. If immediately after potting, and before the soil became dry, you had buried the pots in cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or even ashes, leaf soil, or damp sawdust, as if burying Hyacinths, the pots would be half full of active roots by this time, and growth would have commenced. All you can do now is to keep the soil moist, especially at the bottom of the pots, but not decidedly wet, and await the result. If you can plunge them in gentle bottom heat in any damp material roots will be emitted the sooner, and the soil will be kept regularly and moderately moist without being frequently' watered. Red Spider on Fuchsias (IF.//.). — Are you sure your plants are infested with this insect ? It is not usually so prevalent at this period of the year. As you are afraid of pure water injuring the flowers, anything else you can apply with the syringe will injure them still more. If your plants are not attacked by any other insects you may wash off the pest by syringing — one man carefully inverting a plant and holding it while the other uses the syringe freely. This, if done carefully, would not seriously injure the flowers. An alternative remedy is to mix a quarter of an ounce of petroleum in a quart of water in which half an ounce of soft soap has been dissolved, or to dissolve an ounce of nicotine soap in the same quantity' of water ; invert the plant and apply the insecticide to the under sides of the leaves with a vaporiser, not a syringe. This would not injure the flowers. No steaming or fumigating will destroy the insects. If the plants are much infested they have evidently been neglected or mismanaged in some way. Grafting (E. Welton). — We are not aware of any simpler methods or plainer instructions than those recently published, and relative to which we have received the following testimony from a clergyman in Ireland : — “I have read with much interest your articles on grafting, which are the best by a very long distance of any that I have met, and I have a great many books on the subject, and am myself not altogether a tyro in the art. One great advantage to the beginner is your only giving the best methods, and not ten or twelve, and leaving the learner to find out for himself which is the easiest, and therefore which the most certain to succeed. I, for one, beg to thank you most heartily for all- letterpress, and the most excellent illustrations.” Bead those articles atten¬ tively and we think you will be able to graft fruit trees. Melons and Tomatoes (Reader).— It is no trouble to us to answer letters when inquirers state their wishes intelligibly. You say you now “ repeat ” your questions. On referring to your letter of last week we find you required infor¬ mation on growing Melons in winter, and did not even mention Tomatoes, though no doubt you intended to do so. Instead of repeating your letter you have improved on it, and we can now understand what you desire to know. . f the flags over the pipes are not fixed we should raise them 3 inches, but this is not very material, and no rubble will be needed beneath them. Spread an inch or two of gravel or cinders on them, then place in the fermenting material, spreading over this a thin layer of turves, then the soil, in ridges at first, to be added to as the roots of the plants protrude through them. The soil used for surfacing must be warmed and pressed down firmly after the plants are in free growth. By having very strong plants of Tomatoes in 6 or 7-inch pots ready for planting immediately the Melons are over, you may have an excellent crop of fruit in the autumn and winter. They would probably grow in the old Melon bed, but we should dig a portion of it out and add half a bushel of fresh compost for each Tomato plant. They could be grown in large pots, but you would probably have heavier crops by planting out. The Conqueror and Earley’s Defiance are good varieties ; earlier and dwarfer are Vick’s Criterion and Orangefield, while many persons like the colour and flavour of Green Gage. The question of varieties is really a question of taste. If you have not had much experience in growing Tomatoes you will do well to obtain Mr. Iggulden’s Manual, price 1$., post free Is. Id., from this office. It gives all the details of cultivation in pots, frames, and the open air. Chorozema cordata (A. A'., Whitby). — The plant of which you have sent a spray' is a Chorozema, and we think C. cordata, but as you took no pains to let us have it in a fairly fresh state, but simply enclosed it in a letter to be crushed and dried, the fault is your own if we have not given the correct specific name. Your plant is evidently in bad condition. Unless it is 4 or 5 feet high and as much in diameter the pot is much too large for it, and probably' the roots are the reverse of active. We should prune it rather severely, but not cutting below the leaves, place it in a warm greenhouse or vinery, syringe it a few times a day, and only apply water to the soil to keep it moderately moist. On signs of fresh growth appearing we should turn it out of the pot, remove a good portion of the old soil, and place the plant in a much smaller, clean, well-drained pot, employing as compost light turfy loam and firm fibrous peat in equal parts, with a tenth part each of silver sand and crushed charcoal, potting very firmly. Water must be applied with great care after potting. If you err in this matter you will fail ; if you exercise sound judgment you will succeed in renovating the plant. Syringing the plant and pot occasionally will prevent the necessity for watering the soil for a few days, but when you do give water apply' it in sufficient quantity to moisten every particle of soil. As fresh roots take posses¬ sion of the soil and growth becomes free more water will be needed, and the plant cannot then have too much light and air, a close house and shaded position at that time being evils to be avoided. Although this is by no means one of the best Chorozemas, yet a well-grown plant is both elegant and bright. The illus¬ tration will show the character of a well-grown specimen, and you will do well to endeavour to grow your plant as nearly like it as possible. Carnations for Winter (Idem).— They must be propagated in the spring from strong healthy cuttings, and not by layers in the summer. A successful cultivator has briefly described his practice as follows: — 11 Side shoots may' be slipped off with a heel, inserted in pots of sandy soil, covered with a bellglass, and plunged in a gentle heat. Roots are soon formed ; then pot the plants singly in 60-sized pots, keeping them in moderate heat and close to the glass, shifting them into 4-inch pots before they become root-bound. Pinch out the point of the shoot a3 soon as they are well established in the 4-incli pots, which will cause them to break freely, then place them in a cold frame and gradu¬ ally expose them to more air till the lights can be. withdrawn. Transfer them to their large pots early in June, employing soil similar to that employed for Zonal Pelargoniums, having it rather dry ar.d potting firmly', draining well. Stand them out in an open but rather sheltered position, or the winds are likely to snap off the shoots unless staked securely. For the weaker growers, such as La Belle, place some stakes round the outside of the pots, training the growths round them ; for the bushy growers some small spray of Birch or Horn¬ beam round the pots is preferable to stakes. Supply water carefully, and fully expose them to the sun all the summer to ripen the wood, or they will not flower freely. House them at the same time as Pelargoniums, giving them a light position and free ventilation, and they will amply repay at Christmas and onwards for the trouble taken. They are benefited ..by' a little weak liquid manure when the soil has become partially exhausted." As you do noc appear to possess much knowledge on plant culture, you will find the investment of 10«. in our Greenhouse Manual not misapplied capital. 246 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t March 22, m3. Winter and Spring Onions— A Coming Contest (John Topham). — As your question is an unusual one, we print it and append our reply : — “ Our township have matched themselves against another for £10 this year to show forty-eight Onions on each side. The conditions are — ‘ Forty-eight spring- sown and spring-grown Onions of the flat variety.” Now our competitors have been told that spring does not commence till the 25th March, and some of them have sown on the 7 tli of this month, and they are afraid of the other side taking advantage of this and call their Onions winter-sown. I shall be glad if you will say whether Onion seed sown in March is winter-sown or spring-sown.” Our answer is that it must be decidedly regarded as spring-sown, and to object to the produce on the ground stated would be an unworthy quibble. Winter Onions are so designated, not because the seed is sown in winter, but because it has germinated in the autumn, and the plants have passed the winter in the open air. Plants raised from seed sown in the open ground any time in March could not possibly appear until spring, hence could not be “ winter ” Onions. We cannot imagine any such objection as that named being seriously advanced, and if it should be it cannot be sustained. The term, “winter-sown,” is a mis¬ nomer. There are two seasons for sowing Onion seed — autumn and spring, and that sown in March, at whatever date, is spring-sown. As the Onions in the coming contest will not have completed their growth by the 21st of June, at which date the summer quarter commences, but must grow for some time after that, it might with as much reason be urged that the plants were not “ spring- grown ” as that the seed was not “ spring-sown .” This shows the absurdity of such an objection as that anticipated, We shall be glad if you will send us the particulars of your Onion contest, stating the weights and varieties of the best collections. Leaves for Forcing ( E . S. A.).— It depends entirely what you want to force and the time you wish to commence, as to whether linings will be needed or not. We have grown Cucumbers and Melons in pits, forced such vegetables as Asparagus and Potatoes, and such flowers as Hoses, Lilies, and various other kinds in pits with the aid of a thick bed of leaves alone ; but we did not plant the two first-named crops before the middle of May. Very early forcing cannot be satisfactorily accomplished with the aid of leaves alone, as, although they afford a gentle bottom heat, they do not give the requisite top heat when used as linings to pits and frames. For this purpose fermenting manure should be mixed with them, and even then but little heat could pass through brick walls, which, we presume, form the sides of your pits. Your letter is not sufficiently explicit to enable us to give a more definite reply. There is no cheap book which gives the information you appear to require so fully as you will find recorded in our “ Work for the Week ” columns during the past twelve months. The best work on fruit-forcing is Mr. D. Thomson’s “ Fruit Culture under Glass.” It is published by Messrs. Blackwood, price Is. 6 d. Names of Plants (C. J. .S'). — Andromeda floribunda. (./. N., Neath). — Although we do not undertake to name plants without seeing their flowers, we will endeavour to name yours |if you will send us some particulars about it, such as its size and the conditions under which it is grown. We presume it has not flowered. Without some data of the nature indicated we cannot deter¬ mine the name of your plant. (J/. C. B.) — No doubt a form of Tecoma australis, which is a very variable plant as regards foliage. It ought to flourish in a greenhouse. Perhaps there is not sufficient light for it to flower. Is the house warm ? It is grown out of doors at Kew. ( Captain II.). — There are two or three Hollies so closely resembling yours, and the texture of the leaves is so much influenced by soil, that we are unable to state with certainty the name of the variety. By far the best plan for you to adopt will be to send a spray to a large nurseryman from whom you intend obtaining shrubs. This is the surest way to prevent disappointment. Clay’s Fertiliser (F. J.). — We are obliged to Messrs. Clay & Levesley, the manufacturers of this manure, for correcting a mistake — a clerical error — which we made last week in advising you to use one part of the fertiliser to twenty of compost. The safe quantity is one in eighty, or a 48-sized potful to a fair-sized barrowload of soil. AVhen plants are in vigorous growth and have filled the pots with roots, a top-dressing of a small teaspoonful to a 48-pot may be given with advantage. It is important that the public in estimating the value of this manure should notice the small quantity required. Feeding Bees (.4. B.). — The weather has lately been too cold and snowy for feeding bees. In such weather they sit closely in clusters in the centre of their hives, and will not expose themselves to cold more than is necessary, but as bees cannot live without food they should be fed if they have no food in their hives. As there is a hole in the top of your hive the bees in it could easily be fed through the hole. Put a teacupful of good warm syrup— sugar and water— into a small pitcher, take the lid off the hole, and pour the syrup amongst the combs as well and widely as you can. By holding the hive in a slanting position the syrup will run into the cells and not drop straight down to the board. All this can be done before the bees have time to rise, and when it is done close the door and the top hole of the hive so that all the bees are kept inside. In very cold weather some weak hives so treated are taken near the kitchen fire or into a warm place, where the bees soon become lively and take all the food given to them. Your bees may soon be taught to come to the top hole for a little food daily. Cover your hive well and keep the bees comfortable. The cap you mention is meant for supering, and should be put on in May or as soon as the hive is filled with bees. From such caps good honey and honeycomb are obtained. COYENT GARDEN MARKET.— MARCH 21ST. Market still slack, with no over. s. d, Artichokes . dozen 2 0 Asparagus, English bundle 12 0 Asparagus, French bundle 25 0 Beans, Kidney .. .. 100 2 0 Beet, Red . dozen l 0 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 Brussels Sprouts.. J sieve 1 6 Cabbage . dozen o 6 Capsicums . 100 l 6 Carrots . bunch 0 4 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 Celery . bundle l 6 Cole worts.... doz. bunches 2 0 Cucumbers . each o 4 Endive . dozen i o Fennel . bunch o 3 Herbs . bunch o 2 Leeks . bunch 0 8 signs of improvement until the holidays are VEGETABLES. . s. d. to 4 0 0 0 30 0 0 2 1 2 1 2 0 0 8 0 0 0 0 0 3 0 2 0 4 0 0 8 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 Lettuces . score Mushrooms . punnet Mustard* Cress .. punnet 0 Onions . bushel Parsley . doz. bunches Parsnips . dozen Peas . quart Potatoes . cwt. Kidney . cwt. Radishes.... doz. bunches Rhubarb . bundle Salsafy . bundle Scorzonera . bundle 1 Seakale . basket 1 Shallots . lb. o Spinach . bushel 3 Tomatoes . lb. 1 Turnips . bunch 0 d. 8. d Otol 6 0 16 2 0 3 2 6 6 0 e o o o o o o o o o 0 3 FRUIT. 8. d. 8. d. 8. d Apples . 2 0to7 0 Grapes . Ib. 2 0 0 40 0 Lemons . case 10 0 0 0 0 0 Melons . each 0 0 it sieve 0 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 Chestnuts . . bushel 10 0 12 0 Oranges . 100 8 0 Currants, Black . j sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 ,, Red.. . i sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 1 0 Figs . . dozen 0 0 0 0 dessert . dozen 1 0 Filberts . lb. 0 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English ft>. X 6 Cobs . „ 1001b. 0 0 0 0 Raspberries . ib. 0 0 Gooseberries .. . 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Stra'wberries .... OZ. 0 6 d 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 9 m HOME FARM IIP/. a! W'Afe. ^ j., „ m ' 3=5 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. THE POLLED BREEDS OF CATTLE. ( Continued from page 226.) Of the “ Polled Herd Book,” first published in 1862, six volumes have been issued, in which there have now been registered 1930 bulls and 5054 cows and heifers. The “ Herd Book ” is now owned by the Polled Cattle Society, the Editor being Mr. Alexander Ramsay, from whose'essay in the “ Live Stock Journal Almanack ” for 1879 we have gleaned much important information. The rise in the value of this obreed within the past fifteen years has been most remarkable, and has continued up to the present time ; for although Mr. McCombie’s stock were sold in 1880 at what was then considered high prices, yet the herd of selact animals from Mr. H. D. Adamson, sold in May, 1881, was dispersed at Aberdeen at still higher prices. The averages were, fifteen cows £74 185. each, ten yearling heifers £47 155. each, and younger animals in proportion ; and to show the value of pedigree, eleven “Prides of Aberdeen” brought an average of £96 85., and three “ Sibyls ” £116 45. each. Again, we find that never in the history of any breed°of cattle has the advance been so rapid as for the native breed of polled Aberdeen and Angus “ doddies.” They have doubled their price within the past few months, speaking of the end of the year 1882. The sales at Montbletton of forty lots averaged nearly £98 ; at Advie forty-two animals averaged £88 35. ; and at Cortachy fifty-seven animals averaging £108 115., took everybody by surprise. These high figures are due to the demand from America, as shown by the purchases made by Mr. Wilken of Forbes, who bought at several sales lately fifteen polled cattle for the Hon. J. H. Pope of Canada at a cost of about £1500, and eight for the Hon. M. H. Cochrane, Hillhurst, at a cost of £1864. With regard to success at the Smithfield Show of fat cattle, for several years Sir W. C. Gordon Cumming has been the most prominent champion prize and medal winner. Since the rage for baby beef has set in, [a great many polled cattle have been fed off at twenty-four to thirty months old, making £24 to £35 each. In the London Christmas' market it is stated, choice three- year-old black polled bullocks bring from £40 to £48, and even in some cases over £80. We must conclude by stating the opinion based upon our observation and experience, that a herd for the production of young beef of Angus cows crossed with a full pedigree Shorthonfibull, will pay better and make greater weight for age, with best quality, than any other known cross. The red-polled cattle of Norfolk and Suffolk have within the past few years made rapid progress in public estimation. So much interest has been displayed by some of the most eminent agriculturists of the eastern counties in their history and qualifi¬ cations for public’favour, that they can no longer be allowed to remain a merely local breed, useful only in their native districts, JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 22, 1883. ] but will doubtless be recognised in the future as first-class cattle under the cognomen of Red-polls. In consequence of the recent progress which has been made in the improvement of this breed, many persons have hardly been prepared for the information we can supply relating to the antiquity and history of the breed. We are indebted to the Editor of the “ Red Polled Herd Book,” Mr. H. T. Euren, for much valu¬ able information relating to their origin and progress. He says, “ The history of the red polled cattle can be carried back well into the last century. Suffolk had from time immemorial its breed of polled cattle producing butter which, 150 years ago, was asserted to be ‘justly esteemed the pleasantest and best in England.’ ” Arthur Young, in his “ Survey ” (A.D. 1794), defines the area — “A tract of country twenty miles by twelve . . . . the seat of the dairies of Suffolk ” — which, he said, must be peculiarly considered the head-quarters of the Suffolk polled stock, though he found them spread over the whole county. In this “ Survey ” we get the first accurate description of the breed. Though Arthur Young makes no note of Norfolk polled cattle, yet advertisements of sales held in and from the year 1778 prove that dairies of such animals were numerous in the county, and that they extended from the northern boundary of the Suffolk “ head-quarters ” well into the centre of Norfolk. An old Elmham tenant, who survived till 1872, recollected red polled cattle on the estate so long ago as the year 1780. At Shipdham they were greatly valued from a date equally early. The predominant breed in Norfolk at that time (see Marshall’s “ Rural Economy of Norfolk” — notes written from 1780 to 1782) was, however, “a Herefordshire breed in miniature,” and “ the favourite colour a blood-red, with a white or mottled face.” He says there are several instances of the Norfolk breed being crossed with Suffolk bulls, and that the result was “ increase of size and an improve¬ ment of form.” This would show that in a remote way this cross may have had its effect on the Suffolk breed. But therejs another statement which shows that about the year 1808, at a time when the rage for Devons was at its height on the Holkham estate, a new kind of breed made its appearance, partaking of the best qualities of the Suffolk and Devon or Norfolk red, the mixture of the two varieties by some of the animals having been intro¬ duced into Suffolk for crossing with the red cows there, aDd its effect to some extent has continued until the present time. Another cross was tried some fifty years ago by Mr. Moseley of Glemham, Suffolk. He used a Scotch bull for one generation, and then reverted to the original Suffolk breed, with but doubtful benefit. This we can understand, for it is admitted all round that the Suffolk reds, although they approach so nearly in shape and make to the black polled Scotch, yet they far exceed them in the milking capacity. Colour, too, should always be recognised as important. Any breed, although it is frequently ignored by amateurs, yet we find at one period in a few districts that red and white brindled and a yellowish cream colour had been accepted as representing good milkers. Again, in Norfolk we find that some cases sheeted polls were preferred. The fashion, however, during the last forty years has continued steadily in one direction in favour of the red, which is now exclusively regarded as the mark of excellence, especially the deep rich blood-red. The amalgamation of the two varieties, Norfolk polled and Suffolk polled, may with certainty be traced from the year 1846. About this period the two counties met in honourable competition in the show yard at local exhibitions, but just twenty years ago the Royal Agicultural Society opened classes for Norfolk and Suffolk red polled cattle. The breed now having its “ Herd Book ” may henceforth be properly known as the red polled breed. A description of them was required and agreed upon by the breeders in the autumn of 1873, after Mr. H. T. Euren’s proposal to establish a “Herd Book” of the breed ; the particulars are, how¬ 247 ever, too lengthy for the space we have at command. The con¬ ditions of registry were not made too strict. Personal inspection, however, of the herds by the editor of the “Herd Book,” and his inquiry into the breeding and antecedents of the cattle were in most instances resorted to. The first record up to 1877 consisted of 119 bulls and 554 cows and heifers, whose owners accepted the conditions of registry. It was by an excellent arrangement that each group was distinguished by a letter of the alphabet. Thus (to name the more prominent groups), A marks all cattle descended from red polls of the Elmham selection ; B, those of the Biddell selection, and so on. The red polls are said to have made great progress in America lately, and are much approved, for they have the advantage of being hornless, and therefore more harmless, no little gain where horses also are fed in the same pastures, or where the cattle sent to market make a long railway journey. This breed of cattle, although really good milkers, still make heavy weights as beef, yet yield a superior quality of flesh, and in consequence are much sought for by the butchers, who are willing to pay for them the top price per stone. It is recorded that the live weight of a three-year-old steer of the Biddell strain shown in 1876 was 25 cwt. 2 qrs., its girth nearly 9 feet. Mr. A. Taylor’s red polled steer, first-prize at Smithfield Club Show in 1881 (aged three years seven months ; sire, Norfolk ; dam, Suffolk) had a recorded live weight of 17 cwt. 1 qr. 1 lb. Its dead weight was 91 stone 6 lbs. (14 lbs. to the stone), being the high per-centage of 66-74 of the live weight, whereas 62 per cent, is a high average for the best Christmas cattle. Milk and cream as tests of this breed are very favourable for the size of the cows and the nature of the pasturage. Mr. Gooderham, Monenden, one of whose cows, Wild Rose of Kilburn (vi.), which was first prizewinner as a yearling at the Royal meeting of 1879, brought her first calf when not quite two years old ; and eight weeks after dropping her third calf she gave thirty pints of milk per day on winter feed, and her average of butter was 9 lbs. per week all the year round, and she never goes dry. This latter quality of never losing their milk is of immense importance, for not only does it add greatly to the annual product of milk, but it is almost an insurance against puerperal fever at calving time, the great fatality of which in high-conditioned herds is proverbial with almost every breed of full pedigree stock. Mr. Gooderham, to whom we have just alluded, has recently read a paper of great value at the Framlingham Farmers’ Club in Suffolk on “ Breeding, Rearing, and Fattening of Cattle,” and with special reference to the management of his own herd of red polls. He says — “ I would express my belief that no heifer ought to be grazed until she has had one calf ; for this reason — you would then have the opportunity of ascertaining which are likely to make the best milkers, and, besides, heifers of that kind pay best to fat. For example, a barren heifer fat at two and a half years old will do well to weigh 50 stone (14 lbs.), and make £25 ; but supposing she has a calf at two years old, and you do not think she will make a good milker, graze her and her calf, and at three years old she and her calf will weigh — viz., the heifer will weigh from 44 to 46 stone, and will make from £20 to £23 ; her calf will weigh 36 to 40 stone, and make from £18 to £20. Thus a heifer and her calf will pay 10$. per week for the last year’s keep, being quite as much as a milch cow.” WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — We have lately been busily engaged in preparing and sowing the land with spring Wheat, Beans, Peas, Oats, and Barley. We have sown a new sort of spring Wheat, raised from a single plant, and called the Red Talavera. We noticed a field of this last harvest, and in walking through it found an enormous crop of straw, although it was growing upon a strong soil. Barley will not be grown so much as heretofore upon loamy soils where roots have been fed off by sheep, as the land has been so seriously poached by the treading of the animals that it has been found impossible to obtain a Barley tilth without much spring labour, which means a late and deferred seed time. It is in consequence thought best to sow the land with early white Oats, to be seeded with Clover and Alsike mixed, and as the Oats come to harvest very early a good cutting of Clover for horses and cattle will be available until the first frosts in November occur. This mode of using the autumn growth of the young seeds has often proved more beneficial for the next year’s growth in our own case than when it has been eaten down by sheep, which eat out the crowns of the plants, and in the winter months they die, the land in consequence being erroneously termed Clover- sick. Potatoes should next be planted, especially if of the early varieties : but we do not recommend very early sorts for farm planting, except in case of being near a town or railway within reach of the market of the metropolis, in which case any quantity can be disposed of. For farm cropping generally we recommend the second earlies, which may 248 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 22, less. be planted the first faxourable weather after the 20th of March ; nor do we advise planting Potatoes with yard or town manure, for unless it was laid out in the autumn or winter the delay will prove too much at planting time, and we therefore prefer hand manures — Peruvian guano 4 cwt., and 2 cwt. of nitrate of soda per acre strewed in the furrow with the Potato sets. This is all hand labour and saves time, a matter of great import where there is much planting to be done. This application will prove superior to yard, stable, or town manure, and be far less liable to incite disease, particularly if the sets are planted not less than 8 or 9 inches, for where the disease occurs we have always found the soundest tubers at the greatest depth. All those sorts which produce luxuriant haulm should be planted in rows 3 feet apart ; there is so much more room for tilling both with the horse hoe and ridging plough, besides which there will be a less num¬ ber of small tubers than when planted more closely, and an even sample is always most profitable. Some years ago we were asked to go and see the result of an experiment, in which whole tubers had been planted in hills at 30 inches, 36 inches, and 42 inches apart, and the result proved that the greatest number and the largest tubers were obtained from the sets planted at the greatest distance apart. In farm work it is always important to reduce the number of sets, and also give greater facility for interculture. Hand Labour. — Much labour will be required on many farms in clearing the land of couch grass now in tillage. To facilitate the work of clearance we never think of burning it on the land in small heaps, but burn it in large heaps when ashes are required for drilling on the root-crop seedings. As a rule the couch is carted away to decay in heaps, and with some earth attached becomes very useful in various ways. The burning is often delayed by rain, whilst the carting is done so quickly that the land is ready for seeding without delay. Live Stock are still selling at very high rates, whether of stores or fat stock ; our motto is therefore still in force with benefit, “ Breed all you can and fatten all you breed.” The home farmer in such a case will then reap all the benefit to be derived from grazing and fattening, whereas the benefit is frequently very unequally divided between the breeders and the graziers. For instance, why sell at present prices any lambs of light weight, when by holding them on up to 9 or 10 stone weights they will pay better than by selling at any other weights, either lighter or heavier ? Dairy cows now should not be turned out to graze or lay out at night until the first week in May ; and as there are plenty of roots, such as Mangold and Swedes, in hand on most farms, the cows will yield a more regular supply of milk if they are regularly managed, so as to insure their comfort and judicious feeding under cover for some time yet. Fatting cattle, especially animals of two years old and under, pay this year well for feeding, and it must be considered that the plan is beneficial on the principle of fattening all you breed. THE SUNFLOWER IN FIELDS. Information has been sought on the culture of this now popular flower as a field crop for commercial purposes. I have grown the plants in large numbers for chickens, and in fine autumns the seed ripened well, but in a dripping autumn a large breadth is difficult to deal with satisfactorily, as the seed does not ripen well, and it is not easy to harvest in good condition. Those who have bams or large open sheds in case of wet weather might dry the heads, when they could not be dried in the open air. Since reading Mr. Han- bury’s note I have sought for information on growing the Sunflower in fields, and find the following in the “ Rural Cyclopaedia.” “ The produce per acre will widely vary according to soil, situ¬ ation, and culture, but has been found to average about 50 buffiels of seed— equal to 50 gallons of oil and about 1500 lbs. of oilcake ; and the stems of the crop, if burnt for alkali, will yield about 10 per cent, of potash, while the leaves may be dried and pulverised and mixed with bran for fodder. The crop, however, has a very scourging effect on land, and particularly robs it of potash, and is peculiarly unsuitable for going before Potatoes in a rotation. The soil most suitable is light, friable, and richly alkaline, and does admirably well to be manured with fresh seaweed ; and if loamy or clayey may be advantageously prepared by commixations of shell sand, limestone gravel, or any other opening calcareous sub¬ stance ; and, in any case, must be well tilled and finely pulverised. The situation most suitable is a moderately sheltered one, with suffi¬ cient exposure to enjoy free and constant circulation of the air. The sowing may be done at any time in March when the weather and soil are favourable. The manner of sowing and of transplanting may be very varied, but the following has been particularly re¬ commended : — ‘ Let drills be drawn with a hoe' or otherwise, about an inch deep, and about 18 inches asunder ; sow the seed therein thinly, and cover it over an inch thick ; or it may be sown by dibbling in, which is the better plan. "When the fourth leaf of the young plants has sprouted, and the fifth is ready to sprout, let them all but one be removed from each place and planted elsewhere, in rows 12 or 18 inches apart, and at a distance of 10 inches in the row. Water the plants as they are put down if the weather be dry, and dry weather is essential to the success of the crop. Espe¬ cial care should be directed to remove all weeds for about a month or six weeks, and occasionally to mould up the earth around each plant.’ When the heads are quite or nearly ripe, the plants should be cut down at about an inch from the ground, and removed to a shed or some other place of complete shelter from rain, and there left till they become dry ; and either then or afterwards they may be freed from the seed ; but they must not, in any case, be left on the ground, as they have a great capacity for moisture, and would be very likely to attract it and to become filled with insects.” In my experience 18 inches is much too close for the rows. They are far better 2 feet apart, and in rich soil 24 feet. Kainit is one of the cheapest and best manures for this crop, and a dressing of 5 cwt. per acre, with two of superphosphate of lime, would not be too much, 1^ cwt. of nitrate of soda to be applied as a top-dressing after the plants are fairly growing, if they do not make satisfactory progress. About 2 bushels of seed will suffice for sowing an acre at the wider distances recommended. If anyone else can give better information than this it will be acceptable. — A Gardener. Bath and West of England Society and Southern Counties Association. — This old-established Society will this year hold its annual Show at Bridgwater on May 28th, 29th, 30th, 31st, and June 1st, and prizes to a large amount are offered for Horses, Cattle, Sheep, Pigs, Cheese, Butter, Poultry, &c., and for Horse¬ shoeing. The display of implements has always been a very fine one4 and among other special and attractive features in connection with the Society are exhibitions representative of horticulture, fine art, decorative art, and manufactures. Entry forms, &c., can be obtained of the Secretary (Mr. Thos. F. Plowman, Bath), and further particulars will be found in our advertisement columns. The Weather in South Perthshire. — Severe frosts have prevailed during the past week, the thermometer registering 10° and 11° during two or three nights. These have greatly facilitated the working of the heavy 14 carse ” soil ; and the Bean crop — a very im¬ portant one in the district — has been got in very satisfactorily. On Saturday blinding showers of snow from the N.E. prevailed during the earlier part of the day, and during the evening and early morning fully 2 inches of snow fell. Last night we had nearly 7° of frost, and, the snow still lying, the country all round has a thoroughly winter’s appearance. — N. A. OUR LETTER BOX. Duck Eggs {II. Buxton). — It is impossible to say with any certainty for how long the eggs will prove fertile. It is worth trying the next ten laid by each Duck, but it is hardly likely that all these will prove fertile. Sootch Champion Potato {Bailiff). — No doubt this variety exhausts the soil much more than the earlier sorts do, and manure must be used for the succeeding crop accordingly. This is better than making the land rich for the Potatoes. We shall shortly publish notes on this subject. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40" N. ; Long. 0° 8' 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. date. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. 1883. i CS| fl CO CD ? ® Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. | Temp, of Soil at I 1 foot. Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. *c3 « March. s £ cH ffl" c 3 Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In snn. On grass. Sun. 11 Inches. 29.715 deg. 37.4 deg. 34.9 N.W. deg. 36.5 deg 41.4 deg. 26.2 deg 74.8 deg. 22.0 In. Mon. 12 29.827 31.4 31.4 N.E. 86.4 40.6 27.6 83.0 24.2 _ Tues. 18 30.045 34.5 32.6 N.W. 36.2 45.8 27.0 86.7 22.7 0.024 Wed. 14 29.759 35.0 33.8 N.W. 36.4 47.4 32.7 89 3 29.4 _ Thurs. 15 29.635 34.3 31.6 E. 37.3 40.0 31.0 74.8 28.3 _ Friday 16 29.609 30.2 29.6 N.W. 37.1 41.7 23.8 82.4 21.7 0.010 Satur. 17 29.550 38.C 36.1 W. 31.4 47.0 30.1 86.8 25.4 0.125 29.734 34.5 32.9 36.6 43.4 28.3 82.5 24.8 0.159 REMARKS, 11th. — Dull and cold ;~snow in evening. 12th. — Very cold, with bright sunshine. 13th. — Fine, bright, and calm ; slightly warmer. 14th. — Cold and bright ; sun at intervals. 15th.— Very cold, snow falling thickly at times ; bright moonlight night. 16th.— Very bright sunny morning ; cold wind ; cloudy afternoon ; moonlight night. 17th. — Fine at first, afterwards showers of hail and rain. Temperature almost the same as in the previous week, and remarkably low for the season.— G. J. SYMONS. March 29, 1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 249 29th Tn 30th F 31st S 1st SUN Low Sunday. 2nd M 3rd Tu 4th W Society of Arts at 8 p.M. DENDROBIUM WARDIAN UM. )NLY a few years ago this magnificent Dendrobe caused quite a sensation, and for a time, in consequence of its high price, did not find its way into gardens generally. Plants can now he obtained for as many pence as they cost shillings four years ago. Within the last two years tens of thousands have been imported from eR Burmah, and within twelve months some nine or ten thousand have been landed in Liverpool. Less than two months ago over five thousand were received at Garston with pseudo-bulbs fully 3 feet long. To show the great popularity of this Orchid it may he mentioned that the whole of these plants were disposed of in a remarkably short time without having recourse to a sale by auction. There are several varieties of this handsome Den¬ drobe, some being much finer than others, yet in many the variation is slight, and all are well worth growing. The superiority of some is marked by the large size of their flowers and the deep orange yellow on the lower part of the lip, while in others the lip has a greenish yellow appearance. The tip of magenta on the sepals and petals of some flowers is heavier and more vivid than upon others, while the lip varies in shape, being in some cases well open and almost round, while in others rather long and inclined to he pointed. Some flowers open here at the present time are over 4J inches across. Without doubt this is one of the most lovely and useful of spring-flowering Orchids. It is the more serviceable because it can he grown in the best con¬ dition suspended from the roofs of houses either in baskets or on blocks ; in fact it is quite at home in this position, and yields abundance of the choicest flowers without taking up the stage room which is so valuable where the space at disposal is limited. A number of plants thus grown and well bloomed have a charming appearance ; or when the plants are arranged to rise out of a groundwork of Adiancum cuneatum associated with dwarf well- coloured Dracfenas they are dis¬ played to great advantage, and it would be difficult to imagine any arrangement more beautiful and effective. For a long time we regarded the old D. nobile as one of the most beautiful of the whole family. It is cer¬ tainly one of the most useful ; but we have a number of this species arranged with D. Wardianum on one side of a small span-roofed house intermixed with other Orchids and Dracfenas, and the palm must decidedly be given to the latter. The species under notice is by no means so difficult to manage as many others, and none need fail in its cultivation even if he commences with imported plants, provided they are in good condition when they arrive. The best time to obtain imported plants is in early spring, as they can then be started into growth almost immediately. If they arrive during winter and growth has already commenced they require very careful treat¬ ment in the supply of moisture, or they may damp off altogether. If at rest they should not be excited into growth by the application of strong heat or more mois¬ ture than is required to maintain their pseudo-bulbs fresh and plump ; in fact they should be treated until the days lengthen very similar to established plants. Whenever they arrive remove any portion that may have been bruised in transit, or decay may ensue when moisture is applied. After they arrive place them in a temperature of 50°, but care must be taken that water does not lodge about them from syringing or otherwise. A vinery that has been started is a capital place for them, especially if they are suspended from the wires, and the moisture of the house will prove sufficient to keep them fresh. After the first fortnight, when syringing the Vines or other occupants in the house the Dendrobes may be gently sprinkled at the same time on fine days ; once daily will be ample until they are placed in baskets or upon blocks. They do well on blocks of white or red pine, to which their roots cling tenaciously, but require more care and attention than when placed in baskets. When secured upon blocks with the intention of eventually placing them in baskets the wood used should only be small and well charred. The method of placing them upon blocks is simple. A few smaU nails should be driven into the sides, and the plants secured by means of copper wire after placing a little sphagnum moss over their roots. In an atmosphere moderately charged with moisture and in the temperature named the most prominent buds will soon show signs of moving, then the plants should at once be placed on permanent blocks or in baskets. The size of the baskets to be used entirely depends upon the size of the plants. In placing them in baskets a layer of crocks should be placed at the base and covered with sphagnum moss, then filled almost level with two parts of fibry peat from which the small particles have been shaken to one part of living sphagnum and small lumps of charcoal. Upon this the plants should be placed and their growths carefully secured in an upright position. The roots must also be made firm, but the base of the pseudo¬ bulbs must not be buried, or the breaks are liable to damp, especially if moisture is given in excess. A thorough soaking will not be needed until the plants are fairly started into growth if care is taken in dewing them with the syringe once or twice daily according to the weather. When fairly started they should have more moisture, and the night temperature kept at about 60°, with a rise of 10° or more from sun heat by day. The breaks when 3 or 4 inches in length will commence forming roots. If the plants show flower, which they often will when received during winter and spring — the flowers, if allowed to open, must not remain upon the plants for any length of time, or the new growths will suffer. After the roots have commenced working amongst the material in the baskets all danger of failure with the plants is past. From this time until their growths are thoroughly completed the plants should never suffer by want of water at the roots or No. 144.— Vol. VI., Third Series. No. 1800.— Vol. LXIX., Old Series. 250 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t ira** 29, isss. moisture in tlie atmosphere ; on the other hand they must not be saturated, or their roots will fail to work freely. When in active growth they delight in a mode¬ rately close, moist, and warm atmosphere. During the summer the night temperature may safely range at from 70° to 75°, and be allowed to increase by sun heat to 85° or 90°. Shade must be given during the growing season, but not so as to exclude light — merely breaking the strong rays of the sun. Abundance of light, with a little air admitted daily, is of the utmost importance to solidify the growths as they are made. This is most essential during the latter stages of growth ; and when completed, which is readily determined by the small leaf that is produced on the termination of the pseudo-bulb, more light than ever must be admitted until the plants will bear full sunshine. Full exposure must be brought about carefully and gradually. Give sufficient water to keep them fresh, with more air, until every leaf naturally ripens and falls off. Any deficiency in the supply of water at this time is apt to bring the plants prematurely to rest, which results in the diminished size of the pseudo-bulbs and limits the number and size of the flowers. After the growths have been well ripened the plants should be gradually brought to a cooler temperature until they can be rested in a temperature of 45° or 50° with a dry atmosphere. They should be allowed to become thoroughly dry, only giving sufficient water to keep the stems from shrivelling. A long season of rest is advantageous to insure the plants flowering well and making stout vigorous growths the following season. It is not difficult to maintain a succession of bloom by introducing a few plants into more heat and moisture while the remainder are resting. Care must be taken that the plants are not transferred directly from a cool and dry house to strong heat and moisture. They must be gradually inured to the change by affording them a few degrees’ more heat at intervals of two or three weeks until they are placed in a night tempera¬ ture of 60°. The practice of moving these plants from the house in which they are at rest into one at least 15° warmer is unnatural ; and the flowers, which were probably showing from nearly every joint, will often turn yellow, and many of them fail to expand. "When the plants have flowered they should have exactly the same treatment as recommended for the first season for the plants that had started into growth. Before the roots commence working, the old sphagnum and as much of the surface peat as can be removed should be carefully picked out from amongst the roots and fresh material added, by which means the plants may be kept in the best health and condition. If the material be allowed to become thoroughly decomposed the plants will not long flourish ; in fact, instead of their growths increasing in size and numbers they will gradually decrease. It is important that the material about their roots be kept fresh even if the plants are grown in baskets, for I am convinced that more failures are due in the cultivation of Orchids through inatten¬ tion to this matter than any other cause. When the plants require larger baskets the wires should be removed, and the baskets containing the plants be placed in others of a larger size, merely re¬ moving as much of the decayed compost at the time as possible. This is decidedly preferable to trying to take them out of the baskets in which they have been grown and injuring the roots in the operation. These plants while making their growth are subject to red spider, which is readily kept down by a liberal use of the syringe. I may add that D. crassinode, D. Devonianum, D. crystallinum, and many others require exactly the same treatment. The two last require more moss and pieces of charcoal in the compost to grow them to perfection than is required by either D. crassinode or D. Wardianum. — W. Bardney. DISBUDDING, THINNING, and TRAINING PEACHES I have an opinion that Peach trees which are grown indoors on a flat trellis running parallel to the roof of the house are often defoliated too much or too early, and this is especially the case with the shoot which pushes from the companion eye to that which produces fruit. We will suppose that the tree has'received its proper winter pruning, is furnished with fruiting branches from a foot to 3 feet long, well studded with twin and triple buds, that the wood is firm and ripe to the point, and has needed no shorten¬ ing. Along its entire length, soon after it meets with a suit¬ able temperature, it will be clothed with perfect flowers, and almost immediately a shoot will start from the base of each flower, while the triplet buds will generally furnish two shoots. As soon as the blooms are expanded many of them will be seen to be placed where the fruit would not have the best possible chance of coming to perfection, and, as there is at least twenty for every one we want, there is ample opportunity for selection of the fittest. Those on the upper side of the branch are to be preferred, as they will have a better chance of receiving direct sunlight ; while those on the lower side, and such as are apt to come in contact with the trellis, or from any cause be unfavourably situated, are to be rubbed off at once, leaving, we will say, four to six blooms to the linear foot, all of which are favourably placed. This is done before the flowers are set, or very soon after. If it is deferred till the petals will fall off on being touched, then some of the super¬ fluous shoots may be removed with the flowers and with the same grip. As soon as the young fruits can be seen to be swelling a further thinning takes place, leaving this time about double the quantity of fruits we intend to leave at the final thinning, which takes place a week later. The successional shoot for fruiting the following year has now to be looked after. This springs from the base of the present fruit-bearing branch, and the lower down we can obtain it the better will the tree be furnished. We prefer to have no fruit in the way of this, and if there is plenty on the upper portion of the branch we remove all at the lower end to the length of 4 to 6 inches. The wood buds, too, with the exception of the one in question, are removed to this length, not all at one time, but sufficiently fast to keep a clear head¬ way for our successional shoot. When disbudding and thin¬ ning take place thus early, provided it is not done too much at a time so as to cause a check, the successional shoots will quickly become strong, and if not looked after in the matter of training they will be difficult to tie in straightly at a later date. The fruit-bearing branch being clear, as I have said, for 4 or 6 inches, I make a practice of tying the successional shoot down to it before it has had time to become stiff. It cannot at this early period be tied to the trellis, but afterwards it can easily be trained to it. It is just where it springs from the old wood that there is apt to be a curvature, which half a dozen ties the following season will not wholly correct ; but taken in time now and tied as I have indicated, it will when it becomes hard remain in the position desired without the employment of much force. But the point to which I wish to draw special attention is that the shoots left for the purpose of encouraging the sap towards the fruit are generally stopped too closely. The first five or six leaves on the new shoot are small and presumably JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 29, 1883. ] imperfect. There are sometimes as many as eight or ten of these undersized leaves, forming almost a whorl at the base of the shoot, and taking up not more than three-quarters of an inch of its length, and most of them fall before the stoning period is passed. These small leaves almost entirely cover the fruits in their earliest stage, but when the fruits become larger and hardier they need the light, and the small leaves fall off. I take a lesson from this, and instead of stopping the shoots to three or four leaves, as is often recommended, three or four leaves in addition to the small ones are pulled off, and then when the shoot is 5 or 6 inches in length, and has several good leaves so far away from the fruit that they cannot possibly shade it, the point is picked out. The result is that before stoning time the fruit has become a good deal hardened, and, some of the Nectarines especially, show it by their colour. The terminal shoot, which generally has a fruit at its base, is treated in the same way. — Wm. Taylor. EARLY-FLOWERING GLADIOLI. Though not so stately as the varieties of G. gandavensis these bloom considerably earlier, and on that account are very valuable either in the garden for decoration, or where cut flowers are in demand, as they afford a plentiful supply when other flowers are not very abundant. Once planted they give no further trouble, but continue increasing, forming effective clumps, which, when in masses that have not been dis urbed for a dozen years or more, are grand. Not the least of their merits is that of not being so particular as regards soil and situation as the choicer and more imposing relatives, but no idea can be formed of their effectiveness from newly planted bulbs. It is important, however, to select a site for planting where water does not stagnate in the subsoil — indeed it should be well drained, and light rather than heavy. Anything likely to form a close heavy mass, as manure mixed with the soil in quantity, should be avoided, although a very light poor soil will bear considerably more enrichment than heavy soil ; and the latter should be made porous by a free incorporation of sand or ashes. After the bulbs are planted and established a top-dressing of well- decayed manure, leaf soil, or decayed vegetable matter will be advantageous, the eurface being pointed previous to its application, which should be effected as soon as the stems have died. If the summer be hot and dry a good soaking of water or weak liquid manure will greatly benefit the plants and durability of the flowers. The best time to plant is October, as they start into growth early, and established clumps commence growth early in autumn ; but I have planted purchased bulbs as late as March, which, though not so good as those earlier planted the first year, have nevertheless formed equally effective masses. The corms of the G. ramosus section should be planted 6 inches apart, half a dozen or more in a clump, and these in a few seasons will form magnificent masses. They should be planted from 4 to 6 inches deep, and in heavy soil it will be advisable to place a little sand under and over the corms. The smaller varieties of the summer-blooming Gladioli should be planted 4 inches apart and that dep h. It may be noted that they do remarkably well where the soil is of a peaty nature, and they may be employed in association with Rhododendrons. The species G. ramosus has deep rosy-red flowers flaked with white. The following varieties are cheap and good : Queen Victoria, scarlet, with large white flake and of dwarf habit ; Ne Plus Ultra, deep red, flaked white and crimson, one of the hardiest and best. Floribundus, white, rose, and violet flakes, has entirely died out with me, and so have others of the hybrids of ramosus, the exceptions are formosissimus and emicans. Of the early-flowering section Gladiolus com¬ munis albus and roseus, though small, are very pre'ty. G. byzantinus, rosy purple, is very showy. G. insignis, with its dense spikes and bright scarlet flowers, flaked crimson-purple, is very striking. G. blandus, dwarf, flesh-coloured with dark spots, is one of the earliest to flower, and is more or less fragrant. G. cardinalis, bright scarlet, is one of the most useful and effective. G. Colvilli, purple, striped lilac, and its var. albus (The Bride), afford flowers for cutting, than which there are few finer in existence. G. sagittalis, purple, and dwarf 251 habit, of which there are several varieties ; G. trimaculatus, rose, spotted white, and G. segetum, purple, from the Austrian Tyrol, are all worth place in every garden. Early-flow’ering Gladioli are charming in pots for decorative purposes, and for forcing to precede those grown in the open ground or forwarded by cool treatment. The bulbs are potted as soon as they are received m autumn, and are placed in 5 or 6-inch pots, four or five corms in each, employing a com¬ post of light turfy loam with a little sand, covering the corms about an inch deep. It is advisable to have the compost in a moderately moist condition, so as to avoid the necessity for giving water till the growth has commenced. They do very well under the stage of a greenhouse until they have made a growth of a few inches, then they should be placed in a position near the glass, and duly supplied with water and wTeak liquid manure once a week, being careful not to overwater them. If placed early in the year in a light airy house with an intermediate temperature they will advance rapidly and flower in April or early in May, or in the latter month if brought on in an ordinary greenhouse temperature. Others can be placed in a cold frame or pit, or outdoors, plunged in ashes, from which they can be transferred at intervals to the greenhouse for a few weeks, thence to a house writh a temperature of 50° to 55°, and, assigned a light position, they will come in useful for general decorative purposes. Brought on in an ordinary greenhouse they will flower in late May or early June, and precede those in the open ground. _ To form effective masses for conservatory decoration any size of pot may be employed, placing the corms a couple of inches apart, and an inch from the sides of the pot, giving them similar treatment to those in smaller pots. After flowering they may be placed outdoors, that is after the middle of J une, and being properly supplied with water they will be available for flower¬ ing again in successive years, and from having the growth accelerated and ripened at an early period they will acquire an early habit, and be all the more valuable on that account ; or, planted out after flowering, they be attractive each season. I may especially mention G. Colvilli, purple lilac, and its var. albus (The Bride), pure white, which are valuable, force readily, and ought to be grown by everyone. — G. Abbey. POTATO DISEASE. A short report is given in the Journal of the 15th inst. of objections offered by Mr. George Murray, at the Royal Horticul¬ tural Society, to certain views of mine on the so-called sclerotia of Peronospora infestans. He says that “a microscopical ex¬ amination of certain specimens did not clearly reveal any organic connection between the sclerotia and the Peronospora mycelium. ” But it has to be kept in view that generally the edges of the sclerotia plasmodiate before myceliation begins ; so that, in point of fact, the granular plasm from which the Peronospora my¬ celium arises has lost all organic connection with the undissolved part of the sclerotia. On rare occasions, however, excessively delicate threads in considerable numbers can be distinctly seen to arise from a sclerotium. These sclerotia have been seen already by Mr. W. G. Smith, and perhaps by others ; and whether they are truly called sclerotia (as Mr. Murray denies) is a mere matter of classification. Mr. Murray says sclerotia are “a compact mycelium.” But sclerotia are not going to be tied up in this narrow way. It is true that some sclerotia consist for the most part of compact mycelium ; but, in addition to the short anastomosing lines, there is the hornified plasm which holds these lines together. If they are “ caught young ” something more may be made of them. It is then seen that the mycelic lines arise from exuded plasm around the mass already formed. But in the case of the best known of all the sclerotia — Ergot, the mass consists for the most part of agglutinated spores. If a white young Ergot is squeezed out cn the slide it is seen to consist of whole oceans of spores (variously named) arising from a spongy mycelic axis. — A. Stephen Wilson. Fdchsia Mrs. Rundell. — I wish to point out an error of your correspondent, “ W. J. M., Clonmel ,” on page 241, where he says that Mr. Cannell is the raiser of this Fuchsia. I beg to state that I was the raiser of this variety, and Mr. Cannell obtained it from me. I quite agree with “ W. J. M.” as to its being a vigorous grower, and is most certainly a free winter bloomer. It is the result of a cross 252 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 29, 1883. between the light Fuchsia Lady Heytesbury and F. Earl of Beacons- field, Earl of Beaconsfield being the seed-bearer. The name is spelt Rundell, not Bundle. I have other new varieties, one of which will be found to possess qualities far superior to Mrs. Rundell, both in its vigorous growth and winter-blooming qualities. — Alfred Rundell. LIVERPOOL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. March 20th and 21st. The first spring Show of the above Society was held in St. George’s Hall under very unfavourable circumstances. The inclemency of the weather — snow, rain, and sleet — prevented many exhibitors staging their plants ; nevertheless the competition was keen in several classes, and very few vacant sjiaces were to be seen. The most marked de¬ ficiency was noticeable amongst the large stove and greenhouse plants. On the whole the Exhibition was an excellent one, and far exceeded the expectations of the Committee. Stove and Greenhouse Plants. — In the class for six plants, three in flower, Mr. W. Mease, gardener to C. W. Newmann, Esq., Wyncote, Allerton, had no difficulty in securing the premier position ; Mr. G. Leadbetter, gardener to T. S. Timmis, Esq., having the second place. The former staged Crotons Wiesmanni and Queen Victoria, fine, large, well-coloured plants, fully 7 feet through ; Clerodendron Balfouria- num ; Thrinax elegans, large ; Azalea Flower of the Bay, profusely bloomed ; Dendrobium nobile, about 3 feet through and very good. The second collection contained a very fine well-flowered plant of the last-mentioned, also a good Azalea amcena, Alocasia metallica, and a large plant about 7 feet through of Gleichenia dichotoma in the best possible health. For one stove plant in flower Mr. W. Evans, gardener to Mrs. Lockett, Aigburth, was deservedly placed first with Phaius grandiflorus, a large specimen with spikes of flowers fully 5 feet high. Mr. J ellico, gardener to F. H. Gossage,Esq., Wool ton, was second with the same variety, which was considerably past its best. Mr. M. Wood, gardener to Col. Wilson, Aigburth, was an easy first in the corresponding class for one greenhouse plant in flower with the finest plant of Imantophylium miniatum splendens that we have seen exhibited, being between 7 and 8 feet thi’ough and thickly crowded with splendid trusses. Mr. J. Hurst, gardener to W. B. Bowering, Esq., followed with a fair Erica Wilmoreana. Mr. Mease took the lead for one foliage plant with a splendid example of Croton Williamsi ; Mr. A. R. Cox, gardener to W. H. Watts, Esq., Elm Hall, Wavertree, second. Mr. S. Whitfield, gardener to J. T. Cross, Esq., Beechwood, Aigburth, was placed first in the class for three Palms or Cycads, followed closely by Mr. J. Phythian, gardener to D. Walker, Esq., Forest Lawrn, West Derby, the former staging in the best of condition fair-sized plants of Latania borbonica, Phoenix reclinata, and Thrinax elegans. For one Palm the same exhibitor wras again first with a noble specimen of Kentia australis, Mr. J. Hurst being placed second with a healthy young plant of Phoenix reclinata. Seven or eight competi¬ tors staged in this class. There were only two exhibitors in the class for six table plants, and the first and second prizes were awarded to Messrs. G. Leadbetter and W. Mease, both staging small, light, and neat plants, especially the first named exhibitor. Mr. Edward Green, gardener to J. Woolright, Esq., The Hollies, Mossley Hill, and Mr. G. Leadbetter were the prizetakers for Cinerarias, which need no further comment. Primulas were not numerous, only two lots being staged for the prizes given, the plants in both collections being fully 18 inches through and a mass of bloom, the whites being much supe¬ rior to the reds, Messrs. J. Phythian and E. Green being the prize- takers in the order named. There were four competitors for Cycla¬ mens, and the plants on the whole were not in the best condition, some being worthy of special mention, with the exception of the first-prize plants shown by Mr. J. Jellico, which had flowers of large size. Mignonette we have seldom seen staged in better condition, the plants throughout being in good health, with large dark green foliage and very large flower spikes. Messrs. J. Jellico, W. Mease, and T. Robinson, gardener to D. Holmes, Esq., Lyndhurst, Mossley Hill, were the successful competitors, those shown by the two first exhibitors being especially fine, Mr. Jellico staging pyramids and Mr. Mease bushes, the variety being Miles’ Hybrid Spiral. Azaleas. — These added materially to the beauty of the Exhibition. Mr. W. Evans was the only exhibitor in the open class for six plants. The specimens staged were about 5 feet high, of pyramidal habit, and. well bloomed. His best plants were Eulalie Van Geert, Fielder’s White, and Reine des Roses. In the amateurs’ class for three plants Mr. J. Hurst took the lead with well-bloomed half-specimens, Stella and Charmer being the two best. Mr. G. Moreton was placed second. For one plant Mr. W. Mease was well first with a large plant in good condition of Souvenir du Prince Albert, Mr. A. R. Cox being second with Iveryana. Ferns. — The competition was keen in the few classes devoted to these plants. Mr. A. R. Cox was first for four plants with very healthy even specimens of Adiantum cuneatum, A. farleyense, Lo- maria gibba, and Gleichenia Mendelli ; Mr. J. Phythian being second with larger plants of Blechnum corcovadense, Alsophila australis, and A. excelsa. Mr. J. Stephenson was awarded the remaining prize. For one Fern Mr. W. Evans was deservedly placed first with a very fine plant of Goniophlebium subauriculatum, Mr. J. Jellico second with Davallia Mooreana 6 feet through, and Mr. G. Moreton third with the same species. In the open class for a group of miscellaneous plants arranged for effecc, space not to exceed 50 feet, there was only one exhibitor — Mr. Cox, who was awarded the first prize. The group was light and very well arranged, Palms, Crotons, Aralias, Caladiums, Hyacinths, Tulips, and other similar plants rising well above the groundwork of Ferns and dwarfer flowering plants. Orchids. — There were only two classes for these, but the specimens staged were in very good condition. For four plants Mr. W. Moss, gardener to \V. Holland, Esq., Mossley Hill, took the lead with Zygopetalum crinitum, good ; Odontoglossum Halli leucoglossum, good variety, with a large spike of fine flowers ; Lycaste Skinneri, a large plant remarkably well bloomed, and a fair plant of Ada auran- tiaca. Mr. J. Edwards, gardener to T. 8. Walker, Esq., Rodney Street, Liverpool, was second, having a grand spotted variety of Odonto¬ glossum Alexandras, Oncidium Marshallianum, and 0. maculata superba. For one plant Mr. J. Stephenson was first with a well- flowered specimen of Coelogyne cristata, Mr. G. Leadbetter with Den¬ drobium Wardianum, and Mr. W. Mease with a large plant of D. fimbriatum oculatum secured the remaining prizes. Forced Hardy Plants. — There were four or five competitors in the class for four plants, Mr. G. Moreton being awarded the premier position with a large plant of Azalea mollis ; Azalea Daviesi, good ; Deutzia gracilis, profusely flowered and about 6 feet through ; and a fair Tea Rose, Souvenir d’un Ami. Messrs. W. Mease and W. Bustard were the remaining prizetakers, the former staging creditable plants of Rhododendrons Everestianum, Madame Wagner, and R. fragrans, a very useful small-flowered variety. Rhododendrons were not numerous, but the few staged added materially to the beauty of the Exhibition. Mr. W. Bustard was the only exhibitor in the class for four, and staged creditable plants. Messrs. W. Evans and W. Bustard were the prizetakers in the class for one specimen ; both staged large well-flowered plants of George Cunningham. For one greenhouse variety Mr. Cox was first with a handsome profusely flowered plant of R. Gibsoni, Mr. W. Evans second, and Mr. J. Stephenson third, both showing the same kind. The first-named was first in the class for Roses, and Mr. J. Phythian staged the best pans of Lily of the Valley. Hardy Herbaceous and Bulbous Plants in Flower. — Four exhibitors staged in the class for ten plants, the exhibits on the whole being good and attracted considerable attention. Messrs. J. Dickson and Sons, Newton Nurseries, Chester, were well to the fore with fine pots of Spiraea japonica, Dielytra spectabilis and its white variety alba, Aubrietia Hendersonii, Primula marginata,Chionodoxa Luciliae, bright; Tulipa retroflexa, Narcissus bicolor Empress, N. moschatus, and a good pot of N. Bulbocodium. Mr. J. Hurst second ; his best pots were Polemonium caeruleum, Narcissus Empress, and Scilla cam- panulata ; Mr. W. Morris, gardener to R. R. Heap, Esq., West Derby, having good examples of Primula cortusoides. Hyacinths. — These constituted the chief feature of the Exhibition, and were better than we expected to see them, for the bulbs generally were not good last autumn. For eighteen plants Mr. W. Mease wa3 well first with a very neat collection, his best being — Blues : Sir C. Napier, Marie, good ; Baron Van Tuyll, King of the Blues, and Grand Maitre. Yellows: Obelisque, very fine ; and Due de Malakoff, the best spikes we have seen for a long time. Reds : Koh-i-Noor, the best spike of this variety in the Show ; Howard, bright ; and Lord Macaulay, good. Whites : Alba maxima, La Grandesse remark¬ ably good, and Mont Blanc. Pinks : Florence Nightingale and Grandeur k Merveille. Mr. G. Moreton was a good second, his plants being a little taller. His best reds were Von Schiller and Howard. Dark Blues : King of the Blues and Baron Van Tuyll. Light Blues : Lord Byron, good ; Lord Derby, fine ; and Grand Lilas. Whites : Madame Van der Hoop, large and good. Mr. J. Kelly, gardener to R. Singlehurst, Esq., was awarded the remaining prize. The plants in this collection possessed the best spikes of the three collections, but had not been -well handled. His spike of King of the Blues was remarkably large, while King of the Reds was conspicuous by its brightness. The same exhibitor was again first for twelve Hyacinths, staging dwarf plants similar to those in the first collection ; Mr. J. Kelly second, having a fine spike of Gladstone ; Mr. W. Evans took the remaining prize, and had good Lord Macaulay, red, and Baroness Van Tuyll, white. Mr. J. Pythian secured the first prize for six plants, having good examples of Nimrod, Mont Blanc, and Von Schiller. Messrs. A. R. Cox and E. Green were the remaining prize- takers, the last showing Ida (yellow) in good form. Tulips. — These were well represented, and the competition in some of the classes was keen. Mr. G. Moreton was first with twelve pots in not less than six single varieties, and staged a very creditable assortment. His best were Groost van Vondel, Vermilion Brillant, Keysers Kroon, Fabiola, Proserpine, and White Pottebakker. Mr. Minshul, gardener to H. Nash, Esq., Aigburth, followed, having Golden Standard, Cottage Maid, and White Swan very good ; Mr. W. Mease had the third prize. For six pots Mr. J. Phythian was success¬ ful with Van der Neer, Chrysolora, and Keysers Kroon ; Messrs. E. Green and J. Hurst second and third in the order named. For ten pots of double varieties Mr. Mease was awarded the premier prize, followed by Mr. W. Evans. The best in the first collection were Golden Tournesol, Murillo, Blanche Hative, and Tournesol. In the March 29, 1883. ] JOUBNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 253 corresponding class for six pots the prizetakers were Messrs. G-. Moreton and W. Bustard. Miscellaneous Exhibits. — The various exhibits contributed by local nurserymen added materially to the beauty and attractiveness of the Exhibition. Messrs. T. Davies & Co., Wavertree, staged a magni¬ ficent collection of plants in flower, including Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Amaryllises, Spiraeas, Dielytra spectabilis, and many other seasonable plants, the most striking feature of this collection being about one hundred Hyacinths in grand condition, and about the same quantity of Tulips and pots of Lily of the Valley, the latter being magnificent ■with spikes and bells of enormous size. Messrs. R. P. Ker & Sons contributed a very choice collection of spring-flowering plants inter¬ mixed with Palms, Ferns, and others. In this collection Impatiens Sultani was conspicuous, and the Judges awarded it a first-class cer¬ tificate. . Choisya ternata, remarkably well grown, was also very effective in this group. The Horticultural Company (John Cowan) also contributed a similar assortment of plants freely intermixed with Tea Roses in bloom and Orchids. Mr. Bridge, gardener to Mrs. Jowett, Huyton, sent a box of Tea Rose blooms, Alba rosea, remark¬ able for size and substance, for which an extra prize was awarded. The Horticultural Company had a first-class certificate for a new crested form of Pteris serrulata cristata named Cowani, which is very distinct. The manner in -which the various arrangements of this Exhibition were carried out reflected great credit upon Mr. Richardson the Chair¬ man, Mr. J. Gore, Secretary, and the whole of the Committee. ROOT-EXTENSION versus ROOT-RESTRICTION. On no subject are authors of garden literature more at variance than on the matter of soils most suited to the requirements of the different classes of plants ; and in many cases, though the practice differs very widely, it is astonishing how near alike the results are. The cause of this is not so difficult to explain as at first sight it may appear, for each grower treats his plants according to the compost in which he has planted them. But although equal results may be obtained from soils distinct in their chemical nature, the same effect seldom follows the opposite practice of restraining or extend¬ ing the root space. From an early period it has been observed that if the roots of a plant be restricted, its floriferous habit, and as a natural consequence its fruitfulness, will be increased. That there is some grounds for the idea very few will doubt ; but it is hard for a gardener who has mastered his business to believe that it is altogether correct. If we take a glance at the gardens of the past and compare them with those of the present, we cannot help thinking that the idea is little believed in. Do we not still see restriction recommended, though so little practised in first-class establishments ? Are we to think, then, that theory and practice are opposed on such an important matter? There may be cases in which the restricted method is necessarily applied where convenience is small, but for my part I would rather grow a few plants well than crowd the place with stunted specimens. Those of us who have had charge of Vines in pots know well the greater amount of attention and labour were incurred in early forc¬ ing as compared with Vines in inside borders, and not a few have been disappointed at the sometimes very scanty crop of the former. Can we wonder, then, that the more rational system is gradually gaining favour ? Take orchard-house trees again. A few years ago much was said in favour of growing fruit trees in pots. Orchard houses were built and filled with such trees ; but comparatively few remain, for the roots are revelling with freedom in the soil which before they could only reach after long struggles through the per¬ forated bottoms of the pots, and better results fully justify the change. But it is not so much in the culture of fruits as of plants that restriction is most practised. Take the Allamanda for instance ; though often grandly flowered in a pot it cannot be compared to the glorious spectacle produced by a plant in a border, the growths trained up the roof of a stove. The same remark applies to Clero- dendr.ms, Bougainvilleas, and many others. Nor do I leave out the Stephanotis. Though well aware that it is contrary to the practice of many good growers, I hold that it is never seen in its best except where it has the root run of a prepared border. If the plants are grown for exhibition or to be removed for conservatory decoration, then they must of necessity be grown in pots or tubs ; but if required for cutting or to see them in all their glory they require to be planted out, If we are to take a lesson from Nature the reason is soon obvious why freedom of root-action produces better results than where the roots are restrained. Not that we can follow Nature in all respects, but it is time for us to forego past notions if modern practice has proved them to be incorrect. — J. Macdonald. Lifting Vines in March. — In reply to your correspondent Mr. Nunns in relation to the age of the Vines referred to on page 189, I wish to say that I cannot give him the exact age of the Vines when lifted, but should think they had been planted about twenty years. This is the nearest I can gather from some of the men here, although the Vines did not look that age in appearance, for their stems had evidently discontinued swelling. They have, in fact, nearly doubled in size near the base since they were lifted, but the higher portions of the canes have not swelled to the same extent. I have known the Vines in question a little over seven years, but had no control over their management until five years ago. The first year I knew them a trench was cut some 4 feet from the front of the border, and the contents of a number of closets were deposited in the trench, which killed a considerable quantity of the roots that were not cut off with the spade in making the trench. To this I attribute the cause of the roots springing from the collar as mentioned in my notes. This instance of manuring Vines with a vengeance, and the result is perhaps worth recording. — W. Bardsey. POTATOES FOR TABLE AND MARKET. ( Continued from page 234.) In the following notes the figures 1, 2, and 3 indicate first early, second early, and iate varieties ; the months the time of planting ; and the asterisks those varieties that are considered the best for market purposes by the respective cultivators. Sussex. — 1. February and March. Old Ashleaf, *Myatt’s Ashleaf and Veitch’s Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium. 2. March. Woodstock Kid¬ ney, *Early Rose, and Beauty of Hebron. Soil in this and the following section heavy. 3. Early in April. Paterson’s Victoria, ♦Magnum Bonum, Schoolmaster, and Queen of the Valley. Manures and Application. — Stable manure dug-in in the autumn. If any artificial manure is used it is applied soon after the Potatoes appear above ground, superphosphate of lime being then hoed or forked in. General Remarks. — This is very bad soil for Potatoes, but by generous cultivation and planting wide I obtain good table produce and crops from the sorts mentioned. — G. Williams, The Gardens, Peasmarsh Place. 1. First week in March. *Myatt’s Ashleaf and *Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium, being made so by leaf soil, ashes, and cocoa-nut fibre refuse mixed together. The natural soil here is a heavy loam, not good for Potatoes. 3. Second week in March. ♦Magnum Bonum and *Schoolmaster. Soil. — Same as for early sorts. Manures and Application. — Manure from decayed hotbeds is applied in the autumn, and the ground dug 2 feet deep. General Remarks. — Early varieties are planted 2 feet 3 inches between the rows, the ground being previously forked and allowed to dry a little before planting. The sets are planted about 3 or 4 inches deep ; when the Potatoes come up the ground is forked between the rows. Late varieties are planted 3 feet between the rows, and about 15 inches from plant to plant. I usually lift early, or as soon as the tops are ripe. Magnum Bonum and Schoolmaster do best on this coil, though Snowflake does well some seasons. — H. Prinsep, Buxted Park, Uck- field. 1. February. Veitch’s Ashleaf, *Royal Ashleaf, and Myatt’s Ash¬ leaf. Soil. — Light. 2. March. Bresee’s Peerless, Schoolmaster, and ♦Beauty of Hebron. Soil. — Medium. 3. April. *Magnum Bonum, ♦Scotch Champion, and White Elephant. Soil. — Heavy. Manures and Application. — Spent hotbed manure dug-in in the autumn for early varieties, and a dressing of the same in the spring for second earlies ; but for late kinds newly reclaimed land with farmyard manure is best placed under the Potatoes at planting-time. General Remarks. — Potatoes as a rule are too closely planted ; the rows should be a yard apart. A crop of Brussels Sprouts or Broccoli can be planted between the rows of early kinds, and it is most important that the late kinds be planted in drills and earthed-up in summer with the plough, as is done in Scotland. — Joseph Rust, Bridge Castle. 1. Last week in February. Walnut-leaved Kidney, Early Cold¬ stream, *Myatt’s Prolific, and Porter’s Excelsior. Soil.— For first and second earlies light and rich. 2. Middle of March. Improved Lapstone, Daintree’s Seedling, Beauty of Kent, and *Adirondack. 3. End of March. *Paterson’s Victoria, ♦Scotch Champion, *Pride of Ontario, and *Magnum Bonum. Soil. — Poor and sandy. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure when possible, otherwise the leaves and short grass collected in the pleasure ground, well rotted, with all the ashes and charred refuse that we can collect spread on the ground in spring, and well worked into the soil with the cultivator during dry weather. General Remarks. — Trenching and ridging the soil during the autumn and early winter, levelling the ridges in spring when dry, and carting or wheeling the manure on to the sur¬ face, to be afterwards worked into the soil in the manner indicated. We plant 10 to 18 inches apart in rows 30 to 42 inches apart, accord¬ ing to variety. So soon as the tops are above ground the cultivator is kept at work loosening and sweetening the soil until the plants are ready for moulding up. The crop is dug as soon as ripe, and stored in a cold dark cellar in preference to earth pits. For seed we like the tubers about the size of a hen’s egg, and find no better place for storing than the shelves of the Apple-room. The varieties enumerated with the mode of cultivation gives ns excellent crops of good quality, with little or no disease. — J. Gilmour, Seacox Heath, Hawkhurst. 254 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 29, isss. 1. March. *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, *Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Coldstream, and Grampian. Soil. — Medium. Originally a thin poor silicious soil upon the Hastings sand formation, almost barren, but now rendered thoroughly fertile and porous by heavy dressings of farmyard manure, lime, and coal ashes. 2. April. Snowflake, *Dal- mahoy, Yorkshire Hero, and *Early Rose. 3. April. *Magnum Bonum, ♦Dunbar Regent, and Paterson’s Yictoria. Manures and Application. — In addition to the manure used as mentioned in connection with character of soil, a liberal dressing of “ Three Star ” Crown Manure is scattered along in the rows at the time of planting the Potatoes. Last summer several sorts of manure were tried in this way in soil quite innocent of manure, and the result was so decidedly in favour of the Crown Manure Company’s manure that I prefer it to any other. General Remarks. — Nothing is gained by pressing on the planting in unfavourable weather. The seed tubers are spread thinly in the store shed upon trays near the windows ,and often have stout green sprouts upon it nearly an inch long at the time of planting, which is done when the soil is sufficiently dry for the purpose. When the growth is well above the surface the soil is well stirred between the rows, and the earthing done at the same time with a light steel fork. The main haulm growth is watched closely, and as soon as it ceases, while yet quite green, and before there is any possibility of lateral growth, the tubers are lifted and stored. Early, medium, and late sorts are so treated, each in turn, and the entire crop is invariably saved free from disease, unless wet weather sets in at the critical moment of the first cessation of growth, in which case there will be a certain per-centage of loss from disease. After the tubers are in the store shed they are examined, and turned frequently till they are quite dry and ripe for winter storage. — Edward Luckhurst, Oldlands, Uckfield. Warwickshire. — 1. February. Yeitch’s Improved Early Ash¬ leaf and Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Light and rich. 2. March. Bedfont Prolific and Beauty of Kent. 3. Magnum Bonum and Scotch Champion. Soil. — Light loam. Manures and Application. — Farm¬ yard manure alone is used. — William Brown, Merevale Gardens, Atherstone. 1. February and March. Mona’s Pride, *Yeitch’s Ashleaf, and Myatt’s Prolific. 2. These and the late varieties are planted in March and April. *Keeper’s Kidney and Beauty of Hebron. 3. ’'‘Mag¬ num Bonum, *Paterson’s Victoria, and Suttons’ Flourball. Soil. — Light throughout. Manures and Application. — Stable manure and lime, about half a dressing dug-in together. General Remarks. — In my experience I find early planting and early lifting the best practice to adopt. — Thomas Beddard, The Gardens, Stoneleigh Abbey, Kenilworth. 1. Second week in March. Early May, Mona’s Pride, *Veitch’s Ashleaf, and Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium, but very tena¬ cious. 2. Third week in March. *Rector of Woodstock, ’“Porter’s Excelsior, Yictoria Regent, and "“Schoolmaster. No late sorts are grown. Manures and Application. — Hotbed manure is dug in during winter, and the ground ridged up. — James Rodger, The Gardens, Charlecote Park. 1. First week in March. Kidney Racehorse, *Mona’s Pride, *Myatt’s Prolific, and Prince of Wales. 2. March 20th. Kidney, Snowflake, Early Rose ; round, Grampian and Schoolmaster. 3. First week in April. Reading Hero (round), *Magnum Bonum (kidney), Red-skinned Flourball (round), and *Scotch Champion. Soil. — Medium. Manures and Application.— Farmyard manure dug in during October or November. General Remarks — I have during the last thirty-three years planted with the dibber. I find it much quicker than drilling or planting with the spade, and have never had one case of failure in all that time. — David Leslie, Appleby Castle. Wiltshire. — 1. End of March. Veitch’s Early Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and *Myatt’s Prolific. 2. April. Dalmahoy, Flourball, Schoolmaster, and *Grampian. 3. Paterson’s Victoria, Magnum Bonum, Scotch Champion, and Wormleighton’s Seedling. Manures and Application. — I prefer manure not too much decomposed, as it keeps the soil more open. General Remarks. — I plant with the spade in shallow trenches. If the seed is selected with care all the plants come above ground together. I prefer medium-sized Potatoes for planting to either large or cut Potatoes, and find it best when taking up the crop to then select the seed for the coming year, being very oareful as to size and shape, thus always securing good samples. I plant early varieties 20 inches by 9 inches, second ditto 2 feet by lOinches, and late varieties 4 feet by 1 foot. — Chas. Davies ( late of Chalcot Gardens), 106, Malden Road, London, N.W. 1. February and March. ““Beauty of Hebron, Myatt’s Ashleaf, ♦Veitch’s Ashleaf, and Rivers’ Ashleaf. 2. *Covent Garden Per¬ fection, Suttons’ Fiftyfold, Rector of Woodstock, and Fortyfold. These and the next are planted in March ; the soil medium and chalky. 3. *Magnum Bonum, *Paterson’s Yictoria, Peachblow, and Schoolmaster. Manures and Application. — Stable manure applied to the land in autumn and winter. General Remarks. — We plant on land which has been heavily manured and dug in the previous autumn and winter months. There are three points to which we attach the greatest importance — viz., manuring, distance at which the seed should be planted, and dishaulming when the disease first makes its appearance. With regard to manuring, my experience leads me to form an opinion totally different from the theory which has frequently been put forth in our gardening papers by some writers during the past few years. The theory alluded to is that if you manure heavily you do so at the expense of the quality of the tuber itself, and that the succulent growth resulting from sHch manuring is more susceptible to disease than it would be if a less quantity — or no manure at all — were applied. I have been unable to detect any difference in the same variety when grown under (other than manure) precisely the same conditions ; and as regards being more subject to disease, I maintain that the contrary is the case — i.e., when they have sufficient room to grow in, the more vigour and strength you give to a plant the better able it is to resist any form of disease. Of course the disease will make its appearance — atmospheric con¬ ditions being favourable — in the haulm of even the strongest-consti- tutioned varieties at a certain stage of their growth. When this is the case the best plan to adopt, in my opinion, is, if the tubers be large enough for use, to cut off the tops without further delay, or, what is better, if the tubers have arrived at that stage which may be designated as being within the measurable distance of ripeness, lift the crop and store awray. In planting we give dwarf-growing kinds, such as Myatt’s Ashleaf and Beauty of Hebron, a space of 18 inches by 15 inches, and to strong-growing varieties of the Mag¬ num Bonum class 36 inches each way. With liberal treatment as regards manure we do not find these distances at all too great.— J. Horsefield, Heytesbury , Wilts, 1. Middle of March. Hammersmith Kidney, Suttons’ Early Border (round) *Myatt’s Prolific Kidney, and Woodstock Kidney. 2. About the 20th of March. ’•‘International Kidney, Schoolmaster, Porter’s Excelsior, and ’•‘American Early Rose. 3. From the 20th to the end of March. *Scotch Champion, ““Magnum Bonum, Regents, and Suttons’ Reading Hero. Soil for all sorts light, with a gravelly subsoil. Manures and Application. — Well-decomposed stable-yard dung spread over the surface of the ground and dug deeply into it the preceding autumn, thereby reducing the dung to the nature of mould by the time the planting season has arrived ; and the ammonia, being retained by the soil, is taken up by the plants. General Remarks. — The ground which was manured and prepared for the reception of Cabbage plants in September, 1881, will be planted with Potatoes during the present month, the only prepa¬ ration necessary being the clearing-away of the Cabbage stumps and the digging of the ground. Potatoes thus treated will yield a mini¬ mum of haulm and a maximum of tubers. The latter, moreover, are, on account of the growth of the stalks being less luxuriant, more free from disease. — H. W. Ward, Longford Castle, Salisbury. 1. Planted in succession from the end of February to the middle of April. Soil made light. Old Ashleaf. 2. First week in April. Myatt’s Ashleaf. 3. Middle of March. Scotch Champion. Soil heavy and shallow. Manures and Application. — The Old Ashleaf for the earliest crops is planted on south borders made light by the annual addition at planting time of leaf mould, spent Mushroom beds, or other light but not rich dung. For later crops we cannot afford to make the ground so light, but this variety does best on light soil. Myatt’s Ashleaf does very well in our soil, and Champion is so good that I am requested to make its season as long as possible. All are manured at planting time, the Champions rather heavily. General Remarks. — Seed of the Ashleaf varieties is selected in autumn and put up on end in a shed; that of the Champion is selected and spread out singly not later than January. All are planted with the spade at the second digging. They are forked between as soon as the rows show, and earthed up very early, fre¬ quently covering them overhead entirely. Ashleaf varieties are planted 24 by 12, and the Champion 30 by 15 inches apart. We are always trying other varieties, but up to the present have not found another to suit us so well as those named. — Wm. Taylor, Longleat Gardens, Warminster. 1. February. Ashleaf Yeitch’s Improved, *Myatt’s Ashleaf, *Co vent Garden Perfection, and Early Fortyfold. 2. March. Wood- stock Kidney, *Schoolmaster, Yicar of Laleham, and Climax. 3. March. Paterson’s Victoria, *Suttons’ Magnum Bonum, ““Dunbar Regent, and "“Scotch Champion. Soil heavy for all kinds. Manures and Application. — The ground is well manured in the autumn, and dug as roughly as possible. A liberal supply of wood ashes is given at the time of planting. — Alexander Miller, Rood Ashton Park Gardens, Trowbridge. Worcestershire. — 1. Beginning of March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf and ““Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. Soil. — Heavy, but made as light as possible. 2. Middle of March. Covent Garden Perfection, ’•'Schoolmaster, and *Grampian. 3. End of March. ““Scotch Cham¬ pion, *Reading Hero, and Vicar of Laleham. Manures and Application. — We do not, if we can avoid it, plant on freshly manured ground, but select such that has been heavily manured for the preceding crops, such as Peas, Turnips, &c. After the drills are drawn for the Potatoes we sow in them a good dressing of burnt refuse and wood ashes, on which we plant the sets. — Arthur Barker, The Gardens, Hindlip. 1. Middle of March. Yeitch’s Improved Ashleaf and ““Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. 2. Middle of April. ’•‘Schoolmaster, Fortyfold, Dickson’s Premier, *St. Patrick, ’•‘Porter’s Excelsior. 3. First week in May. ’•‘Suttons’ Magnum Bonum, *Prinee Arthur, *Reading Hero, and Paterson’s Victoria. Soil. — For all kinds heavy and marly. March 29, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 255 Manures and Application. — When practicable I like Potatoes to succeed Strawberries, the land having a good dressing of decayed manure in autumn, then ridged for winter exposure. When Potatoes are about 4 inches above ground I generally give them a dressing along the rows of soot, a little salt, and guano. General Remarks. — For a first early and satisfactory crop I find no variety better than Yeitch’s Improved Ashleaf. For an early and heavy crop my experi¬ ence decides in favour of Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf. For second early sorts combining quality and productiveness I give preference to Schoolmaster and St. Patrick. Late sorts for productiveness and general good quality combined Suttons’ Magnum Bonum must have the premier place. I have discarded Scotch Champion, it is too wasteful in character, having to be peeled, as the common saying is, “ inside and out.” To those who desire quality alone Paterson’s Victoria should be grown, but not to any extent, as it is subject to diseases when prevalent. — Owen Thomas, Impney Gardens, Droitwich. Yorkshire. — 1. *Mona’s Pride, *Myatt’s or Veitch’s Ashleaf (I cannot detect any difference between them). 2. Lapstone. 3. "“Scotch Regent, "“Magnum Bonum, and "“Champion. All the sorts are planted in April in heavy magnesian limestone soil. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure. In field culture it is put in the drills with the Potatoes at the time of planting, but in the garden it is dug in during the winter. General Remarks. — I have only named the varieties such as are grown in this locality. Myatt’s I consider one of the best all-round early Potatoes, it being a heavy cropper and of first-rate quality. Mona’s Pride is larger, but not so good in quality. The true Scotch Regent is the best late Potato as regards quality, but unfortunately in wet seasons it is very much given to disease. The Champion and Magnum Bonum are now ex¬ tensively grown for market, both yielding heavy crops of sound tubers. Magnum Bonum is now making the best price in the market. Second earlies are not much grown here. Lapstone is of first-class quality, but will not stand the disease in wet seasons. — G. Summers, The Gardens, Sandbeck Park, Rotherham. 1. Early in April. "“Early Ashleaf (original variety), and "“Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Clay soil, made moderately light by adding year after year sand, lime, &c., to the borders. 2. Second week in April if the weather is suitable. *Edgcott Seedling, "“Covent Garden Perfec¬ tion, "“Schoolmaster, and Woodstock Kidney. 3. Third week in April. Prince Arthur and Yorkshire Hero. Soil. — Strong clay resting on hard marly blue clay. Manures and Application. — We use stable manure under the sets at planting time, and on the top of each set put about half a shovelful of sea sand, lime, and decomposed garden refuse mixed and turned over two or three times during winter. We have used the above compound for the last three years with most excellent results. General Remarks. — This place is situated 400 feet above the sea six miles inland, and anything but suitable for producing first-class table Potatoes. However, by liberally applying sea sand, lime, die., we get very satisfactory returns. During the last nine years we have tried upwards of sixty varieties, and from some cause or other have rejected them all except the eight sorts named. — J. McIndob, Button Hall Gardens , York ( Cleveland ). 1. Old Ashleaf, "“Veitch’s Ashleaf, Racehorse, and Mona’s Pride. 2. *Myatt’s Ashleaf, Haigh’s Seedling or Lapstone, Excelsior, and "“Dalmahoy. 3. Regents (York), "“Magnum Bonum, "“Scotch Regents, and "“Champion. The early sorts are planted in warm borders about the middle of March, main crops towards the end of the month or early in April. Manures and Application. — Good farmyard manure either dug or ploughed-in some time previous to planting. If not sufficient of this we find that rape dust and guano in equal quantities mixed to be a capital manure. One of our largest Potato growers hereabouts tells me that he finds that the crop of Potatoes is considerably heavier where the manure used is from cattle that have had a good supply of linseed cake. General Cultural Remarks. — For our early crops we are careful to have the seed tubers well sprouted before planting, but not drawn — say nice dark green stubby sprouts about three quarters of an inch long. The farmers know the value of this, too, for early crops, and the most successful early Potato growers have a large supply of rectangular-shaped boxes or trays — say, 3 feet long, 2 feet broad, about 3 inches deep — in which to place their seed tubers some time in February to grow in light, yet frost-proof barns. There are hundreds of acres grown between here and Selby, within a distance of two miles each side of the river Wharf, in light loamy land not liable to be flooded, and good crops are, as a rule, procured. I do not think it is at all worth while planting Potatoes in quantity on heavy soils. Good samples of splendid quality ar« produced on lightish limestone soils. — Henry James Clayton, Grimston Park Gardens Tadcaster. 1. "“Early Ashleaf and "“Myatt’s Prolific. 2. Ashtop Fluke, Lapstone, "“Schoolmaster and Victoria. 3. "“Magnum Bonum, "“Scotch Champion, and Red-skinned Flourball. The soil is medium loam with sandy subsoil. The earlies are planted on a warm border about the middle of March, second earlies in April, and late varieties the first week in May. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure dug-in in the autumn. Night soil and ashes applied at the time of planting. No farmyard manure to touch the sets. General Remarks. — Plant deeply, not to be ridged too early. Haulms to be thinned to three or four to a plant. I have grown thirty or forty varieties, but those named are the most useful. — Rev. C. P. Peach, Appleton-le Street, Malton, York. 1. Veitch’s Early Ashleaf and "“Myatt’s Prolific. 2. "'Covent Garden Perfection, Yorkshire Hero, and "“Vicar of Laleham. 3. "“Schoolmaster, "“Prince Regent, and "“Scotch Champion. Soil. — Light loam. Time of Planting. — End of March to middle of April. Ma¬ nures and Application. — Stable manure, thoroughly decomposed, applied in autumn and dug in at the time of application. This for the early and second early varieties. For the late varieties farmyard manure at the rate of about 12 tons per acre placed in the rows before putting in the sets. No artificial or other hand manure employed. General Remarks. — The early varieties are planted in rows 24 inches apart and 12 inches asunder in the rows ; second earlies in rows 30 inches apart, and sets 15 inches asunder. Late varieties in fields same distance as the second earlies ; but in richer ground, as that of gardens, G inches more distance between the rows and 3 inches more between the sets. The early and second early varieties are planted 4 inches deep on the level, hoed when appearing above ground, and well earthed up when sufficiently advanced. Late varieties have drills made with the plough, manure put in and spread, and sets covered with the plough 6 inches deep, scuffled when weeds appear, repeating as needed, and hoeing once or twice before eartfiing up, which is usually done when the tops are about 6 inches high. — GEORGE Abbey ( late of) Grir.kle Park, Loftus-in-Cleveland. FILBERT PRUNING. I have been interested in reading the remarks on page 202, and although I have Filbert trees I cannot find “pink” blossoms on any of them. The truth is, I do not exactly know what to look for, and consequently could not prune with such confidence as I should wish. Is it possible to make the matter more plain to an inexpe- 256 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 29, 1883. rienced amateur, to whom Filbert-growing is quite a new pursuit ? — F. L. E., Nottf, [The outline engraving will be of assistance. The fruit of the Filbert is produced upon the upper part of the young shoots, and upon small branches which spring from the part at which the shoo's of the preceding year were shortened. The male blossoms (catkins) are produced separately from the female ones. Fig. G5 (p. 255) A represents a shoot in which a a are female flowers, and jthe males. In pruning, care must be exercised to leave a sufficient supply of these male blossoms for the purpose of fertilisation ; and therefore the trees should not be pruned till early in the spring, when their development is obvious. A crop of the fruit is often lost for want of attention to this ; and it has been found by experiment that where a tree has itself been deficient in the supply of catkins, cutting them from other trees and suspending them over the pink female blossoms has resulted in producing a good crop. The pruner must therefore insure an annual supply of these small productive twigs.] PRUNING ROSES— LADY fMARY FITZ WILLIAM. I have been reading Mr. Moorman’s interesting article on pruning Roses (March 22nd). He advises late pruning. I must confess myself rather a disciple of Mr. G. Baker of Reigate, that strenuous advocate of early pruning. The present is an excellent season for testing the two plans. The end of February was most tempting for the purpose ; since then March has been coming in too much like a lion all along. All my pruning, except Teas, was finished before March began. I saw the garden of a skilful Rose-grower yesterday near here, in West Surrey, where not a plant had been touched. 1 shall watch with interest which of us is nearest “in” on the Rose year’s central day — July 3rd, the National Rose Society’s London show day. My impression is that it makes but little difference as to the flowering, and that in late pruning there is always some danger from bleeding. Even in February I found great difficulty with some excitable Manettis in cutting down to a dormant bud. To turn to another subject. I may remark that Mr. Bennett’s Roses seem the novelties of the present season, and Lady Mary Fitzwilliam one of the most desirable. The friends of Hybrid Teas will be glad to hear that they will have a chance of being shown in a class for a basket of Teas introduced by Mr. George Paul into the forthcoming National Rose schedule, and which he starts, I think, with a silver cup prize. — A. C. m ptemlepngs. 1 At a General Meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society held last Tuesday, Thomas Moore, TjEsq., F.L.S., in the chair, the following candidates were unanimously elected Fellows — viz., John Barker, Francis Darwin, M.D., F.R.S., William Wickham, F.L.S. The Right Hon. Lord Aberdare, President, has nominated the following gentlemen Vice-Presidents of the Society for the ensuing! year — viz., Sir|j Trevor Lawrence, Bart., M.P., J. H. Mangles, F.L.S., R. Hogg, LL.D., F.L.S., Wm. Haughton. - We are informed that the Horticultural Exhibition at the Agricultural Hall will now form part of the “Furni¬ ture Trades” Exhibition, from 23rd April to 16th May, and will represent most of the garden furniture, such as glass houses, boilers, seats, vases, mowers, rollers, &c., filling the whole of new entrance arcade, the space in the hall and galleries being entirely filled with other furniture. - Mr. H. Cannell of Swanley states that at an Exhibition of the Socidte Nationale et Centrale d’Horticulture de France, held at Paris on the 22nd of March, he was awarded a first prize for plants of the NEW Fuchsia Mrs. Rundell, which has also been certificated by the Royal Horticultural Society at South Kensington. - Mr. J. Clarke of Brynkinalt writes as follows on frost and fruit blossom in North Wales : — “Although we have experienced 12°, 14°, and 18° of frost incessantly for the past fortnight, only the first-expanded blooms are killed here, and I am pleased to say they are very few. Peaches, Nectarines, Apri¬ cots, Apples, and Pears on walls and otherwise promise abun¬ dantly, and we hope with a genial spring our fruit rooms may be filled.” - Messrs. John Stewart k. Sons inform us that they have dissolved partnership with their branch nursery at Fern- down, Dorsetshire, managed by their late partner, Mr. David Stewart. The nursery and seed business at Dundee and at Broughty Ferry, which has been established for over a century, will be continued by the firm. - The sixth annual Exhibition of the Putney and Dis¬ trict Chrysanthemum Society will be held at the Assembly Rooms, High Street, Putney, on Tuesday, November 13th, of the present year, when the usual liberal prizes will be offered in thirty-three classes, besides a number of special prizes for miscel¬ laneous plants and cut flowers. - “ J. W., Liverpool," writes on hot water as an insecti¬ cide : — “ Last spring I read in the Journal that the best way to get rid of insects destructive to Orchids was to plunge the pots in hot water at a temperature of 120°. I was rather in doubt whether it was safe to do this, consequently tried two or three pots that I knew were pretty well full of woodlice, or, perhaps I should say, appeared so from the condition of the roots. The contents of these pots all changed, the insects were killed, and the Orchids improved. Seeing that no injury was caused to the plants, I last August plunged every Orchid I had in water heated to 120°. I have found that it has not injured one plant. Dendrobium densiSorum that I subjected to this treatment has now no less than forty -two spikes of bloom, and these in a few days will be fully expanded.” - We have received many letters relative to the extreme coldness of the weather and its effects on vegetation. From Sussex a correspondent writes : — “ We have it wretchedly cold here, the east wind blowing as if it were blowing its last. I wish it would 1 Neither man nor beast can stand out in it, and spring flowers are so nipped that they can scarcely be recognised.” A letter from Scotland describes the weather as “dreadfully bad, the ground covered with snow. Vegetation, which was much too forward a month ago, has had a serious check, and Broccoli where exposed to the wind has melted down into a mass of offensiveness.” “ H. B., Louth," writes : — “ The weather in Lin¬ colnshire has been very wintry for over a fortnight, with heavy falls of snow, wind, and severe frosts. Much damage has been done by the latter in the garden, where a large extent of plants, such as Wallflowers especially, &c., has been irretrievably ruined. Pear trees, which a fortnight ago were profusely covered with fruit buds in nearly an expanded condition, appear to be in a pitiable plight, the buds being browned as if scorched by fire. Apple trees are fortunately in a more backward state. Talking of Apples, we wonder the Stamford Pippin is not more spoken of, as at this time of year it cannot be surpassed for flavour.” - A correspondent, “ J. L.,” writes to us as follows on the Cardiff Castle Cucumber : — “ When the seed of this valuable all-the-year-round Cucumber was first distributed by one of the leading Edinburgh firms some doubts were expressed as to its being a new variety. I can endorse all that has been said of its value. Last autumn, when passing through a busy market in the midlands, I heard a grower recommending it to his friends. Holding up some of the finest samples I ever saw, he shouted, ‘ Cardiff Castle Cucumber : grow no other : pays grower and seller better than any other variety in cultivation.’ On looking through your advertising columns we find Carter’s Cardiff Castle Cucumber and Pettigrew’s Cardiff Castle Cucumber. I have March 29, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 257 ordered the latter variety ; others I know have ordered the former. But as there is a great difference in the price should like to know if they are distinct or identical.” [Messrs. Carter state on p. 17 of their “Vade Mecum” that they “this year purchased the entire stock of this Cucumber from Mr. Pettigrew, the raiser.’ The one they offer is thus acknowledged to be Pettigrew’s Cardiff Castle. It does not follow that others have not grown the same variety and saved seed from it last year.] - A meeting of the Royal Botanic Society was held on Saturday last at the Gardens, Regent’s Park, Mr. W. F. Lord in the chair. Upon the table were specimens of seaweeds preserved in glass jars from the Society’s museum. The Secretary, in the course of some remarks upon them, said that, having last summer collected some seaweeds for the museum, it struck him whether it might not be possible to procure them in a living state and grow them in the garden. Upon making inquiries he found that hitherto little or nothing had been done in that direction, it having been generally regarded as impossible. After sundry experiments he had succeeded, specimens ef various kinds col¬ lected last autumn being at present in what might be called a fairly flourishing condition, growing and fruiting freely in the greenhouse set apart for them in the Garden. - A correspondent, E. F. Behrens, writes : — “All may not know that the Turnip-rooted Celery, called by the Germans “ Knollen Celerie,” besides being used for flavouring soups, &c., makes an exquisite salad, which is of the greatest value to the housekeeper during the winter and early spring. The method of cultivation is to sow in March in well-manured ground ; in May transplant into rows 4 feet apart, with 2 feet between the plants, pinching the tips off the roots and leaves. Well water and hoe during summer, and when the root is the size of an Apple remove the earth and side shoots and cover up again. In October lift, clearing off the roots and outer leaves, retaining only the centre leaves. Bury the ball trimmed of roots in sand in a cellar or deep trenches to keep from all frost until required for use. For use well wash the balls, put unpeeled in a large pan of cold water and boil for two hours. Allow them to get cold with the peel on, to preserve their whiteness. Peeled, finely sliced, mixed with pepper, salt, three spoonfuls of olive oil to one and a half of vinegar, makes a dainty dish to set before a king ‘or an epicure.’ ” - “ One of the best warm greenhouse plants we have for flowering at this time of year is,” writes a correspondent, “ Iman- tophyllum miniatum. Well-established plants invariably throw up several strong flower scapes, and these keep fresh and attrac¬ tive for many weeks. Anybody can grow it, and it very seldom requires repotting. Ours have not been disturbed for three years, and they are in perfect health and extremely floriferous. They are never dried off in any way — in fact remain constantly on the end of a stage in an intermediate house ; and at no time are they unsightly, as the foliage if stiff and erect is yet of a rich attractive green, this being maintained with the help of an occasional supply of liquid manure. There appear to be several forms of the variety, some having thin and pale reddish-yellow-coloured blooms, others, as with us, much richer in colour, and occasionally a still better form is to be met with. The best we have yet seen, if we except Mr. B. Williams’ variety, were flowering freely in the houses connected with Messrs. Garra way’s Durdham Down Nurseries, Bristol. The scape of flowers in this case are large and compact, and the individual flowers shorter, more round, and of a rich orange-red colour. The stock is being rapidly increased by division, and ought gradually to replace the inferior forms now being generally grown.” - A Bedfordshire correspondent writes relative to the severity OF the weather IN March : — “ On the morning of the 24th inst. we registered 14° of frost, and at Southall Park 21° were registered at 4 feet from the ground. For several nights we have registered from 7° to 9°. The penetrating east winds had done much to mellow stiff and soddened soils, which made gardeners unusually busy sowing small seeds, &c. ; but as I now write (Easter Monday) the outlook is a cold one, and presents a midwinter scene. The ground is covered with upwards of 3 inches of snow ; this fell in the short space of rather more than an hour. The trees and shrubs are enveloped in snow to the same thickness as the ground. Luckily the wind has fallen, or much damage would have been done to evergreen shrubs and trees owing to the great weight of snow. Apricots on walls covered with hexagon netting have been much blackened by the frosts, and fears are entertained that the crop will be lost. Peaches and Nectarines are now in full bloom, and being a little later hopes are entertained that they will fare better than the Apricots. Currants and Gooseberries are in a backward state, which we hope, are still safe. On the 27th the thermometer registered 18° below freezing.” - The usual monthly meeting of the Meteorological Society was held on Wednesday evening, 21st inst., at the Insti¬ tution of Civil Engineers, Mr. J. K. Laughton, F.R.G.S., President, in the chair. The following gentlemen were elected Fellows of the Society — viz., Mr. G. T. Hawley, Dr. C. W. Siemens, F.R.S., Mr. C. Walford, F.S.S., and Col. H. G. Young. Dr. W. Koppen was elected an honorary member. The paper read was “ Notes on a March to the Hills of Beloochistan in North-West India, in the. Months of May to August, 1859, with Remarks on the Simoom and on Dust Storms,” by Dr. H. Cook, F.R.G.S., F.M.S. These months may be considered as the summer of the hill country of Beloochistan, though the natives expect the weather to change soon after the fall of rain, which takes place about the end of July and beginning of August. Compared with that of the plains the climate is delightful. The actual heat is greater than in England, especially the intensity of the sun’s rays, but the weather is less variable. Fruits and crops, as a rule, ripen earlier and are not exposed to the vicissitudes of the English climate. The atmosphere is clear and pure, the air dry and bracing. The simoom occurs usually during the hot months of June and July. It is sudden in its attack, and is sometimes preceded by a cold current of air. It takes place at night as well as by day, and it burns up or destroys the vitality of animal and vegetable exist¬ ence. It is attended by a well-marked sulphurous odour, and is described as being like the blast of a furnace. Dr. Cook believes it to be a very concentrated form of ozone, generated in the atmosphere by some intensely marked electrical condition. - After the reading of Dr. Cook’s paper the Fellows inspected the exhibition of meteorological Instruments for travellers, and of such new instruments as had been con¬ structed since the last exhibition. In addition to the ordinary instruments designed for travellers — viz., barometers, thermo¬ meters, hygrometrical apparatus, compasses, artificial horizons, &c., some very interesting historical instruments used by cele¬ brated travellers and explorers were exhibited, including those u*ed by Dr. Livingstone in his last journey, by Commander Cameron during his journey across Africa, by Sir J. C. Ross in his antarctic expedition, by Sir E. Sabine in his arctic voyage, &c. HOME-GROWN LILY OF THE VALLEY. Those who have not experimented with home-prepared Lily of the Valley for early forcing would do well to give the system a trial. I do not so much advocate the system on account of cheapness as for the much better results obtainable from home-grown plants. Not that the commercial side of the question is unworthy atten¬ tion, for, were only a very limited quantity flowered at one time, if the season be prolonged from Christmas till the end of April the expenditure helps to swell the yearly amount somewhat ; and 258 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t March 29, issb. where the supply required is large the outlay annually is serious. A dozen plants do not make much appearance, especially where they are required for cutting from as well as looking at, and the retail price ranges from 15.?. to 30s. per dozen, and wo know from experience that those costing the largest sum are the cheapest in the end, consequently the commercial aspect demands consideration to some extent. We obtain quite as good spikes from home-grown plants, with these important advantages — they are easier to force, and early in the season we obtain good foliage as well as good spikes; besides, we obtain much finer masses of bloom. Two dozen spikes from an imported clump is the largest number obtained. Last January I counted the number in an 8-inch pot (home-grown roots), and found over six dozen good spikes. Presuming that a batch of healthy plants are either in flower or just over, instead of turning these into the rubbish heap introduce them into a structure where they can have a temperature of 55° to 60°. In May turn them out of doors, taking precautions to shelter them from cold winds and frost. At the end of that month or the be¬ ginning of June select a sheltered position, open, though not ex¬ posed to hot sunshine, and plunge the pots to their rims amongst coal ashes, introducing a small pot under each to stand them on, so that freedom from stagnant water is assured, at the same time the visits of worms are hindered. Though dryness at the root is extremely prejudicial they do not require to be kept more than moderately moiet throughout the summer and autumn months. We have had the crowns perfectly ripened in July. In any case the crowns should be plump by the beginning of September at the latest. This condition of ripeness will be better understood when it is explained that on opening a lipened crown the spike and leaf will be found so far perfected as merely to require the necessary amount of moisture and heat for full development. I have tried drying the plants after the foliage has commenced decaying. I cannot say that any difference was noticeable in any way when the plants were forced from those which had been kept moist. The smallest-sized pots we employ are those 7 inches in diameter. These are suitable for imported clumps the first season ; some of the largest may require 8-inch pots. The soil we use is a strong loam enriched with dried cow dung finely pulverised. Ample drainage is necessary, as the plants do well in the same pot for a couple of seasons. With the aid of liquid manure and surface dressings they would do well for a longer period, but the plants invariably outgrow the pots they are in, so that it is impossible to water them, consequently repotting becomes an absolute necessity7. — E. T. CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE. I wish to thank “ A Grower and Exhibitor ” for his able article on the culture of the Chrysanthemum. I had hoped there would have been more discussion on some of my questions, which was really one of my objects of inquiry. I thought it might bring some hints respecting the different liquid manures and their merits, the ripening of the wood, and the culture of Japanese varieties. With me the Japanese require more heat than the Incurved at the time of opening their flowers, and liquid manure while the flowers are opening, which, if given to the Incurved, would cause the flowers to reflex. I also find they are more easily overpotted, or are not potted quite soon enough. Which is it ? As regards the “ ripening of the wood,” the cultural directions as given by many are, that plants should be grown from the cutting to the flowering period without a check, and as soon as they have filled their flowering pots with roots watered regularly with liquid manure. There are several of the varieties when kept growing in this way that will not show their buds until October, which is too late for exhibitions, and some of those which do show their bloom buds come deformed, and are useless. I find such sorts do better when placed in their flowering pots the first week in June, and I do not give them any liquid manure until they show their buds, then top-dress the soil and supply liquid manure liberally7. This is what I mean by ripening the wood, and upon which I sought the opinion of others. I consider the election a success, a boon to all, especially to beginners. The “ too-much- alike” varieties, I think, require very hard pruning. — J. L. Plants and Weather Changes. — We all have heard of or seen movements of birds and animals at the approach of changes of weather. I have a notion that some of the larger plants have movements in the position of their foliage that show that they also feel when different atmospheric changes are about to take place. Pur instance, a Colocasia esculenta, the leaves of which last year in a half-bushel pot, measured 4 feet 6 inches by 3 feet G inches, is now, after having been placed in half of an eighteen-gallon barrel, throwing fresh leaves. At any alteration in barometrical pressure I noticed differences in position of the last-developing leaves — i.e., expanding leaves. Will others notice and observe whether these are all fancies of mine or realities ? 1, Whether direction of wind can be for'etold ; 2, Whether downfall of rain can be portended by plants. — INQUIRER. CLIMBERS OR ROOF-COVERING PLANTS. ItHODOCHITON VOLXJBILE. The attractive Mexican plant, of which a spray is represented in the woodcut, fig. 056, is one of the most distinct and striking of all climbers suitable for greenhouses and conservatories, as its flowers are rich and peculiar in colour, while they are produced in great profusion. One of the chief characters of the flowers is the coloured calyx, which is large, flat, spreading, fiye-lobed, and bright pink, the corolla being long tubular, also with five lobes, but smaller and more oblong than those of the calyx ; and the colour is a very striking contrast, being a rich deep purple, which is sometimes so intense that it is almost black. These flowers are produced singly on long slender twisting peduncles, and the flowers hang in dense clusters from the branches. When trained to the roof these are seen to the best advantage, and this is the only way in which this plant should be grown. A moderately rich compost of turfy loam, well-decayed manure, leaf soil, and sand suit it well, and it should be preferably planted out in a small border. It requires little care, except thinning the shoots and removing those that are straggling or weak. It was intro¬ duced from Mexico early in the present century, and is said to have been first grown in Mrs. Marryatt’s garden at Wimbledon, now the property of Sir Henry Peek, Bart. WHY WE VENTILATE. Prior to writing on the subject of ventilation, I have waited in the hope that “ J. J.’s ” remarks on page 22 would have elicited replies from one or more scientific readers of the Journal. Scientific 1 cannot by any means claim to be, at the same time I seldom if ever give haphazard advice, and as a rule can explain myself more fully if the necessity for so doing arises. J. J.” evidently considers I err in insisting on the importance of giving air on all favourable occasions, though he admits I am in goodly company. Against the practice, however, he quotes Mr. Taylor, also the practice of growing Cucumbers in houses without ventilators, and unfolds a “ harrowing tale ” anent his own unfortunate experience with a batch of Phalaenopsis. With regard to the quotation from Mr. Taylor’s writings on Grape-growing, the context should convince an impartial reader that Mr. Taylor had in his “mind’s eye ” the immense vinery under his charge, where during the growing season of the Vines in all pro¬ bability it is “ unnecessary to open the ventilators merely for an interchange of air,” but it does not follow he would apply this dictum to all houses of all forms and at all seasons of the year. If I am mistaken in this 1 hope he will “ follow on the other side ” — that is to say, in opposition to myself. The “express” method of growing Cucumbers is practised, unless I am much mistaken, during the spring and summer months, and it is almost needless to state under totally different circumstances with regard to heat and light than is the case when winter Cucumbers are being grown. It may be advisable to push on Cucumbers as rapidly as possible, but the less growth many other more valuable plants make during the winter months the better. The more robutt they are maintained without actual damage by cold winds the more certain are they to grow healthily and vigorously at the right time. “ J. J.” evidently considers he scores a point in favour of little or no ventilation when he mentioned his misfortune with the Phalae- nopsis. He, by his own showing, bought his experience at a high price, and I only trust he will not go to the other extreme, or he may meet with other disasters. Doubtless the stereotyped directions with regard to giving Orchids “ plenty of atmospheric moisture with abundance of air” greatly misled in this case. If, however, the different writers who gave them, and others, had written at greater length upon this and other subjects, and were, in fact, to go into details every week, advising as to when air should or should not be given, and in what quantities, the periodicals must either have been enlarged or less variety be included. The probability is, not one of the competent men who advise upon Orchid culture ever contem¬ plated the contingency of a batch of Phalsenopsis or any other Orchid newly imported, or otherwise, being exposed to a freezing wind. In the matter of air-giving, as in all other cases, judgment is required to be exercised by the novice as well as the expert, and this probably “ J. J.” will now admit. “Ventilate on all favourable occasions ” is my favourite rule both in practice and when advising ; but when a cold and perhaps easterly wind prevails this would be considered the reverse of favourable, .1 March 29, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. and no air would be given unless necessitated by strong sunshine. To prevent burning, I should shade where blinds are available, or give as little air as possible. Neither am I an advocate of fixed temperatures, especially high ones, during the night time, believing this to be. only an invention to worry the life of the under gardeners. We certainly prefer to see the temperatures of the different houses near a certain height, but if they happen to be either a trifle higher or lower occasionally no notice is taken, because no ill effects result. I hold we should ventilate when the external conditions are 259 favourable, and, unless “J. J.” admits fresh air to his house judi¬ ciously, I am afraid his Orchids will not equal his expectations. We are informed by “ C. P. P.” (page 66) that “hot- water pipes secure a constant circulation of air,” but much as I respect the esteemed writer, I cannot believe he resorts to no other method of ventilation. No doubt when the pipes are first heated the radiation is rapid and far-reaching, but I feel certain the area thus affected gradually lessens according as everything becomes much warmer. Besides, if there is no egress for the rarified air this must collect at Fig. GG. — Riiodociiiton VOLUBILE. (See page 258.) the highest point and stagnation gradually result. The slightest opening of the top lights of a house quickly effects a change in the atmosphere. This I submit is beneficial, and it is an easy matter on a still day to accomplish without lowering the temperature one degree.— W. Iggulden. Freesxa refracta alba.— I have tried this and F. r. Leitchlini, both indoors and planted out, but have not succeeded with them to my satisfaction — at least, not so well as some of my correspondents. A lady in Sligo (“ M. R. P.”), who has been more fortunate in her pot culture for greenhouse decoration, writes to-day — “ On one of my plants there are now three flowers open, and about six more to ex¬ pand. The form is most elegant and showy, and the perfume a delicate Auricula scent.” Would some growers tell us of their system of growth ? — W. J. M., Clonmel. PELARGONIUMS IN WINTER. It is hardly necessary at the present day to apologise for re¬ ferring to Pelargoniums as winter-floweriDg plants. Since the late Dr. Denny called attention to the beauty of some of his seedlings ten or a dozen years ago their cultivation for flower¬ ing in winter has increased in a wonderful manner. The point of the greatest importance for winter-flowering is the selection I 260 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t March 29, im. of the right varieties for that purpose. These need not be very numerous, indeed the more rigorous the selection the larger may be expected the return in bloom. I find it much better to grow from one to three dozen plants, each of a few good sorts, than to increase the number of kinds. The following have been well proved as extra free-flowering and fine in other respects : — White Vesuvius ; Aida, blush, extra fine ; Remus, white with red eye, fine ; Lizard, salmon shaded, fine ; Helen, fine salmon and white ; Louisa, light rose, very floriferous ; Lady Sheffield, Mrs. Leavers, Lady Bailley, and Olive Carr, all extra fine pink shades ; Earl Manvers, Col. Seeley, and Charles Schwind, shades of crimson ; DeLesseps, Lady Stanhope, E. Davies, Lizzie Brooks, shades of scarlet ; and Hettie, a plum shade. The next most important matter to having the right varieties is to have a proper structure in which to grow the plants. The best of the kind I have seen was a roughly built lean-to pit, having the sashes moveable and with a flow and return 4-inch pipe for heat¬ ing. The plants were placed on coal ashes and were within a few inches of the glass. Whatever the kind of structure, light is one of the chief requirements. A temperature to keep the plants growing healthily is also necessary, as, unless a continued growth of foliage and stem is secured, the supply of trusses must soon come to an end. It may be noted here that there is little if any difficulty in obtaining flowers up to Christmas. It is between that time and the beginning of March that any weakness in the treatment is betrayed by an absence of flowers. 1 have found a temperature of 55° to 60° secure a continued state of floriferousness right through the winter. Having disposed of these points I will now note the modes of propagation and the summer treatment of the plants. They may now be propagated at any convenient time. We like to have the cuttings rooted, so that when they are transferred into 4-inch pots they may be at once placed in a cold frame. What I con¬ sider the best mode of propagation is to place each cutting singly in the smallest sized thimble pot. The compost employed for the cuttings consists of half sand, half soil. No drainage is required. The pots are placed several dozens together on the potting bench, and the compost placed in them with a spade ; the cuttings are then inserted and the soil made firm. They are placed in a stove quite close to the glass, a minimum temperature of 65° being allowed them. Water is given as they require it, and in from ten days to a fortnight root-action has commenced. They may also be rooted quite readily in boxes, using about an inch in depth of the same compost. The quickest mode of all is to dibble the cuttings into the sand in a propagating house. After the plants are all rooted they should be removed to a cooler house, just keep¬ ing them growing. In April they are transferred into 4-inch pots, the compost preferred being a friable loam, not turfy, a fourth part of cow manure being added. A few coal cinders are employed for drainage. The compost is rammed down quite hard, a slow sturdy growth being needed. We have a frame about 3 feet in depth for growing the plants in during the summer months, and in this they are at once arranged. They require little water until the weather becomes warmer. In June the points are taken out of the young growths, and that is all the pinching they receive or require. In July the plants are shifted into 6-inch pots in which they flower, the same compost being used, and the manner of potting being the same as wiih the first shift. The plants are returned to the frame again, some beiDg placed behind hothouses when we have too many for our frame to hold. It has been re¬ commended to place them out in the sun throughout the summer months, the object being to render the growth firm and stout. I have tried various plans, and would much prefer to have a structure set apart for the plants the whole year round. Next to that my plants do much better under the shelter of the deep-sided frame set apart for them. They never fail to flower, and the foliage keeps a healthy green hue which exposed plants never have. It is not well to be late in housing the plants, as a few cold nights will cause the greater portion of the foliage to fall after going into warmer quarters. The last week in September may, therefore, be taken as the latest time they should be standing out. Besides the points already treated of at the beginning of these notes there are only three matters requiring referring to in their winter treatment. The first is to allow the plants plenty of room. It will be found better to throw aDy inferior plants away during the winter than to allow the whole collection to be overcrowded. The next point refers to watering. This, of course, is a question greatly resting on local circumstances. For instance, plants standing in a low pit on coal ashes will not require half as much water as plants standing on an open wooden trellis in a larger structure. This, however, may be noted, that the necessary tem¬ perature required to keep the same plants in a healthy and floriferous condition throughout the winter and early spring months, also requires that a sufficient supply of water be re¬ gularly forthcoming. I do not believe in dryness for a growing plant. The plant is certain to break down at some point ; even if it flowers it will affect the size of the trusses and pips. The last point is the question of manure. Our plants are regularly sup¬ plied with a stimulant about once a fortnight. Sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda are not suitable, a little of the former which we gave our stock last year threw the plants out of bloom for a week or two. Standen’s manure is the safest and best. — R. P. Brotiiekston. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. March 27th. The first promenade Show of the season was held in the conser¬ vatory, the Council-room being now occupied by the Fisheries Exhi¬ bition Committee. As usual at these early shows bulbs formed the great feature of the display, Hyacinths being particularly well repre¬ sented, the large collections from Messrs. Yeitch, Williams, and Cutbush occupying a large portion of the space. Several other handsome groups also contributed to the beauty of the Show, not the least pleasing being Messrs. Pauls’ Roses and Mr. James’ Cinerarias. Fruit Committee. — Philip Crowley, Esq., in the chair. The following members were also present : — Messrs. (4. H. Goldsmith, Sidney Ford, G. Paul, C. Silverlock, J. Burnett, J. Woodbridge, J. Smith, W. Denning, and Thomas Laxton. Mr. J. Hudson, gardener to H. J. Atkinson, Esq., Gunnersbury House, Acton, sent six bunches of Lady Dovvne’s Grapes extremely well kept, fairly coloured, and the bunches very even. A cultural commendation was awarded for these Grapes. Mr. J. Summers, The Gardens, Sandbeck Park, Rotherham, Was awarded a cultural commendation for a box of La Grosse Sucree Strawberries large and well ripened. Mr. S. Ford, gardener to W. E. Hubbard, Esq., Leonardslee, Horsham, exhibited a collection of about forty dishes of Apples and Pears, the former comprising some well- kept fruits of Norfolk Beefing, Round Winter Nonesuch, Mere de Menage, Coronation Pippin, Blenheim Pippin, Scarlet Pearmain, and Redstreak. The Pears were Uvedale’s St. Germain’s, and Beurre Berckmans. A cultural commendation and vote of thanks were awarded for this collection. Floral Committee. — Shirley Hibberd, Esq., in the chair. The following members were also present : — Rev. G. Henslow, and Messrs. T. Moore, J. Laing, H. Bennett, James Cutbush, H. Cannell, H. Ridley, W. Bealby, J. Duffield, H. Ballantine, J. Dominy, James Hudson, H. Turner, J. James, and M. T. Masters. Messrs. H. Cannell ifc Son, Swanley, sent plants of a Zonal Pelargonium named Edith George, a variety with a very large truss of bright pink flowers, and a basket of the double Cineraria Sir Drummond Wolff, Miss Simpson, and Hernia. A vote of thanks was accorded to Mr. W ood- bridge. The Gardens, Syon House, Brentford, for some fine trusses of the fragrant Pancratium-like Hymenocallis macrostepliana. Messrs. J. Yeitch & Sons, Chelsea, staged a magnificent collection of Hyacinths, comprising nearly 250 plants, and representing all the best of the varieties in commerce, together with a number of novel¬ ties. The plants were in excellent condition, the spikes very massive, the bells large, and the colours clean, bright, and rich. They were also tastefully arranged, the colours being carefully contrasted or harmonised. Of the new varieties the following were the most note¬ worthy in addition to the certificated varieties which are described at the end of the report. Empress of India, single, very dense spike, warm crimson, small bells; Sa/rano, single, pale yellow, compact spike, large and distinct ; Mauve Queen, single, purplish mauve, the margins of the petals lighter, spike compact, of moderate size ; Bal- samceflora, double, flowers very large and full, white tinged with pink ; L'Obscurite, single, very dark blue, almost black, neat spike; Passe Incomparable, single, very rich rosy red, extremely bright ; Actrice, double, blooms very large, pale pink, loose spike. Amongst the older varieties the following were the best, taking the single forms first. Blue and Black: Lord Byron, Charles Dickens, King of the Blues, Grand Lilas, Queen of Blues, Porcelain de Sevres, Tricolor, Sultan, Grand Bleu, Pienneman, Blondin, Masterpiece, and General Havelock. Red and Pink : Von Schiller, King of Reds, Macaulay, Prince Albert Victor, Princess Alexandra, Princess Clotilde, Annie Lisle, Queen of Hyacinths, and Countess of Rosebery. White : Mont Blanc, L’lnno- cence, Grandeur a Merveille, La Franchise, Snowball, Baroness Van Tuyll, and La Grandesse. Yellow: Queen of Yellows, Bird of Para¬ dise, Ida, Marchioness of Lome, King of Yellows, and Jonquillon. The best doubles were Princess Louise, rosy red ; Van Speyk, pale blue, very large bells ; Susannah Maria, pale rose ; Lord Wellington, creamy white; Von Siebold, pale blue; and Koh-i-noor, pale red. A collection of new Amaryllises and greenhouse Rhododendrons was also shown by Messrs. Veitch ; all these were very fine, and certifi¬ cates were awarded for several, which are described below. A silver- gilt Banksian medal was awarded for these groups. Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway, contributed extensive and beautiful collections of Hyacinths, Tulips, Lilies of the Valley, and Cyclamens, all of great merit. The Hyacinths in particular were remarkably fine, the spikes massive and the colours rich. About March 29, 1883. j JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 261 150 plants of these were shown, even and vigorous. About fifty Tulips were contributed also of good quality, the Cyclamens being notable for the great size of their flowers. A silver Banksian medal was adjudged to Mr. Williams for this collection. Messrs. J. Carter & Co., Holborn, exhibited a large collection of Cineraria,s of their “ Brilliant Prize ” strain, the plants being dwarf and bearing richly coloured flowers of many distinct shades. Pour baskets of Primulas, comprising specimens of all the chief Holborn varieties, were also contributed, the group being backed up with a row of Deutzias and Dielytras. A bronze Banksian medal was awarded. Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshunt, exhibited a large and handsome group of Roses in pots, of sizes varying from 6 to 12 inches or more in diameter. The plants wrere all very healthy, the blooms abundant, bright, and of good substance. Such well-known varieties as Madame Thdrese Levet, Madame Victor Verdier, Duke of Teck, Annie Laxton, Marie Rady, Souvenir d’Elise, and La France were represented by fine plants, smaller specimens being staged of the neat Polyantha Roses Mignonette and Margueritta, the former pale pink and the latter white, the flowers being small but borne in dense clusters. A silver-gilt Banksian medal was adjudged to Messrs. Paul & Son. Messrs. Collins Bros. & Gabriel, Waterloo Road, London, had a very bright collection of the scarlet Anemone fulgens flowers in neat glasses. Purple, white, and crimson varieties of the new Victoria Giant type were also represented by a number of flowers very prettily arranged. Mr. J. James, Woodside, Farnham Royal, Slough, con¬ tributed a group of Cinerarias extremely varied in colours, the flowers of great size and admirable form, and for which a bronze Banksian medal was awarded. Messrs. Cutbush ife Son, Highgate, exhibited a beautiful group of Hyacinths and Tulips, about 120 of the former and fifty of the latter. The Hyacinths were distinguished by their fine spikes and large bells, all the leading varieties being represented. The Tulips also were of very good quality, the flowers large, and the colours rich. A bronze medal was awarded. From the Society’s garden at Chiswick several groups of Azaleas, Lachenalias, Primulas, and Begonia manicata. Several prizes were offered by an amateur for Amaryllises, but the competition was not very keen, Mr. Little gaining nearly all the prizes, being first and second for the best seedling with The Ameer and Queen Mab ; first and second for the best light variety with Iolanthe and Comet. He also gained the same position for the best dark variety with Princess Dagmar and Dr. Masters. These four with Mdlle. Titiens and Coronet also were placed first as the best Amaryllises. Messrs. Paul & Son were third with a seedling Amaryllis named Mrs. Hird. Messrs. Sutton & Sons, Reading, offered prizes for nine seedling Cinerarias, single varieties, but only one collection was staged, for which the third prize was awarded to Mr. H. Little, Hillingden Place, Uxbridge. First-class certificates were awarded for the following plants : — Amaryllis Lady of the Lake (Veitch). — Flower of excellent form ; petals broad, rounded, white, with a few rose spots. Amaryllis Wordsivorth (Veitch). — Flower neat, rounded ; petals very bright scarlet, veined with darker shade. Amaryllis Byron (Veitch). — Flowers of moderate size, five in a head, but remarkably rich in colour — a deep warm crimson, quite distinct, and scarcely equalled in richness by any other variety. Amaryllis Tennyson (Veitch). — A very handsome variety, with flowers of enormous size, 7 or 8 inches in diameter ; the petals pro¬ portionately broad, and bright scarlet in colour. The plant shown was bearing a massive spike, over 3 feet high, with four grand flowers. Hyacinth Pink Perfection (Veitch). — A single variety with spikes of great size and excellent form, the bells very large, the petals spreading, white suffused with a delicate pale pink. An exceedingly handsome variety. Hyacinth Souvenir de J. II. Veen (Veitch). — A single variety, rich dark blue ; bells of moderate size, in a very dense compact well- formed spike. Rhododendron Triumphans (Veitch). — A striking variety, bright scarlet, rounded petals, wax-like in texture and appearance. Cineraria Princess of Wales (James). — Flowers nearly 3 inches in diameter ; petals very broad, rich purple-crimson. Cineraria Mr. Herrin (James). — Intensely deep, rich maroon; flower of moderate size but beautiful in form. Cineraria Duke of Edinburgh (James). — Flower 2£ inches across, rich purple-blue ; petals broad with a white ring in the centre. Anthurium ferriense. — A hybrid between Anthurium ornatum and A. Andreanum, raised by Mr. Bergman, gardener to Baron A. de Rothschild, Ferriers en Brie, France. Foliage very much in the way of A. ornatum, the spathe being 5 inches long and about 4 broad, ovate in form, and not puckered like A. Andreanum, of a rich cherry- red colour ; the spadix white. Angrcecum articulat.um (Williams). — Flowers about an inch in dia¬ meter, white and wax-like, with spurs 3 or 4 inches long, and borne in a short raceme. Rose Mignonette (Paul & Son). — A pretty little Rose of the Poly¬ antha type, with pale pink flowers, produced in clusters similar to Margueritta, but rather larger. It is dwarf, free, and graceful. Rose William Francis Bennett (H. Bennett). — A Pedigree Tea variety of a purplish crimson colour, very bright in the bud, which is neatly formed, and well adapted for buttonholes or bouquets. They are extremely fragrant. Scientific Committee.— Sir J. D. Hooker, K.C.S.I., in the chair. Sclerotia of Pcronospora infestans. — Mr. W. G. Smith called atten¬ tion to the fact that the so-called “sclerotia” described in a paper by Mr. A. Wilson, read at the last meeting, were observed and figured by Von Martius so long ago as 1842 (Die Kartoffel epidemic), and by Berkeley in his paper on the Potato murrain in the first volume of the Horticultural Society’s Journal. They were sub¬ sequently figured by Broome in 1875, and Professor Buckman. Mr. G. Murray said that from his examination they often seemed to consist of the discoloured and disorganised contents of the cells which they completely filled, though in Martius’ drawing two or three were in one cell. Dr. Masters, however, noticed that they were often outside the cells, and of an angular character, as if they had not assumed the form of the interior of the cell. The question was raised whether they might not have been expressed by the covering glass. Martius figured them with conidiferous threads proceeding abundantly from them. Further investigation of their true nature was thought desirable. Abutilon and Hibiscus “ bigener.” — Dr. Masters described a very dark- flowered Abutilon, which was said to be due to an original cross between Hibiscus rosa-sinensis and Abutilon striatum. The original plant was a dark-flowered seedling which was fertilised by Mr. George for two or three generations with the pollen of the Hibiscus, and though the character of the flower is that of Abutilon it has the truncated column and foliage of Hibiscus, thus showing distinctly intermediate characters. In one plant the leaves were marked with a dark crimson spot. Hence it appears to be a true bigener, or cross between two distinct genera. Ivy-leaved Pelargonium Cross. — Mr. George sent some foliage of a cross between the Ivy-leaved and a rough-leaved Pelargonium. Several showed a reversion to the peltate type, some assuming a funnel-shaped or other irregular form, thus b^raying its origin from P. peltatum. Orange Trees attacked by Mytilaspis Citl icola. — Mr. Maclachlan exhibited leaves and branches of Oranges much injured by this insect from the Bahamas. He read a communication by Messrs. Dunlop and Roker, communicated by the Governor to the British Government, requesting information. The insect was therein named Aspidites Gloverii. He made some remarks on the method of attack by the insect, and suggestions as to remedies to suppress it. Solatium sj)ecies. — Sir J. D. Hooker read a communication from Mr. Lemmon of Oakland, California, upon the discovery of three species or varieties of Solanum, bearing tubers, from the borderland of Arizona and Mexico. “We found them first,” writes the author, “ on the cool northern slopes of the high peaks [of the Huachuca range] ; then afterwards, where least expected, invading the few rudely cultivated gardens of the lower foot-hills. One kind is called S. Jamesii. This has white flowers and tubers. Another was S. Fendleri, Or. It has smaller purple flowers and flesh-coloured tubers. This, Dr. Gray lately concludes to be but a variety of the old Peruvian Potato, and he calls it S. tuberosum var. boreale. The third form or species, found at 10,000 feet altitude, has mostly single orbicular leaves, one or two berries only to the umbel, and small pink tubers on long stalks, growing in loose leaf mould of cool northern forested slopes. I have great faith in the successful raising of one of these species (or varieties) to a useful size, for the fol¬ lowing reasons: 1, While the S. tuberosum var. boreale bears long stolons and but a few tubers, the other kind, S. Jamesii, makes many short stolons terminated by four to eight large round white tubers. 2, While the first kind has been partially tried and then given up, the latter species is known to have become enlarged to the size of hen’s eggs during the accidental cultivation of three years in the embanking of a rude fishpond.” THE CHRYSANTHEMUM ELECTION. TOO-MUCH-ALIKE VARIETIES. I note at page 177 of the Journal of Horticulture the excellent remarks of Mr. Moorman on the “ too-much-alike varieties,” and like him am rather amused at the opinions expressed by some of the electors regarding the varieties that are supposed to be identical. As you say, no doubt this arises through their not having the varieties true to name. The election must prove an advantage to all, particularly to those now forming collections, of which there are many. I was rather surprised to find that some varieties, Cherub for instance, did not obtain more first-class votes. The reason I think is not far to seek ; many growers fail to obtain good blooms of that variety, and thus it loses a place in the first class. It is a telling flower in a stand when in its proper form. Piincess of Wales and Mrs. Ileales I hold are quite distinct when properly' grown. The petals of the Princess have a deep pink shade, whereas those of Mrs. Heales are a light creamy white. I know that under some conditions they are very nearly alike, particularly when the blooms of the Princess are fading; they then lose that rich shade of colour which renders them so attrac- 262 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. f March 29, isss. tive. I contend that of all the varieties of Incurved Chrysanthe¬ mums Princess of Wales is the best ; it is one that is most to be depended upon to produce fine blooms, and has an excellent habit of growth. Inner Temple I have not yet made out as a distinct variety. In my opinion it is Refulgence under a new name, which name never ought to have been given. Some catalogues describe it as synony¬ mous with Arigena; if so that is a very poor recommendation, as I have not yet seen anything approaching a good bloom of that variety, nor do I think anyone else has. With me it has always produced flowers, the petals of which remind of the bristles on the back of a hedgehog. Mrs. Parnell is the same as Mrs. G. Rundle in all respects except size the former grows large, and I consider it the better of the two. Golden Queen I never thought good enough to grow ; it is much too coarse in the petal. It differs from Emily Dale in the petals being not so broad, and not so well incurved. Baron Beust and Orange Perfection are distinct enough for twelve if necessary. The former is a first-class variety, not nearly sufficiently grown, as it is of such easy growth. Orange Perfection has a brighter hue of colour, and does not show the golden tips as in the case of Baron Beust. Nonpareil, though an old variety, introduced, I believe, in 1846, is desirable, colour deep lilac; the flower is of good form with perfectly incurved petals. Much has lately been said in favour of Beverley or White Beverley, as it may be. I fail to see its good qualities as set forth by some. It is not large, the petals are too erect, the habit of the plant is not good, being too weak to carry a fair-sized bloom without so much support. There are plenty of white kinds far superior. These remarks apply to Golden Beverley also. I am not at all surprised that Jardin des Plantes attained so high a position in the election. I own the form is not good in all hands, but the colour is very rich, and good plants are pretty sure of producing fair blooms under ordinary treatment. It was sure to be pounced upon for a first place. I named Mr. Bunn in preference to it for the first twelve. Should the election of the Incurved varieties be followed by one of Japanese the results will be rather surprising, I fancy, as to some varieties. Much more progress has been made with the intro¬ duction of new varieties in that section than the Incurved. Many new kinds are much superior to the older ones, and are not so well generally known, therefore electors will have more difficulty in naming all the first twelve. — E. Molyneux, Srvanmore Park. MR. HIBBERD’S LECTURE ON THE AMARYLLIS. At the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on Tuesday, March 27th, Mr. Shirley Hibberd gave a lecture on the Amaryllis. The occasion was made the more interesting by the exhibition of collections of these beautiful flowers, in some cases not for com¬ petition, in others for the prizes offered by an amateur desirous of encouraging the production of hybrid Amaryllis of high floral quality. Mr. Hibberd said the name of the flower suggested that its history should begin somewhere in the 106th Olympiad ; or, say some three hundred years before the Christian era, in order to bring the country girl, Amaryllis herself, to furnish the subject of the opening chapter. But there is nothing to be gained for our present purpose from the pleasant verses of Theocritus or the later lines of Virgil, for neither of these poets gives aught beyond the name, and, as a matter of fact, Amaryllis does not anywhere in classic poetry rise to the dignity of a heroine. But it is one of the glories of the Linnasan nomenclature that by means of symbols selected from imperishable Nature we are brought into contact with the sweet stories of old, the flower of to-day taking us to the very fountain-head of pastoral poetry — the idylls of the poet of Syracuse. The Amaryllis in some form was known long before the time of Linnaeus, for John Gerarde had the one now known as Sternbergia lutea, which he figures at page 113 as Narcissus autumnalis major. John Parkinson had this same plant, and figured it at page 75 of the “ Paradisus,” and he had another which he figured at page 71 as Narcissus indicus, the Indian Daffodil, with a red flower. This became known as the Jacobeea Lily, and was figured in the “ Botanical Magazine ” (t. 47) as Amaryllis formosissima. This Jacobaea Lily is now catalogued as Sprekelia formosissima, having been so named by the German botanist Heister in honour of Dr. Sprekel, and not, as is generally supposed, by Dean Herbert, who, however, adopted it and thereby sanctioned it. The plant has been of late years met with in Guatemala, but its native habitat was long unknown. It appears to have been introduced to Spain before the year 1593, in which year, according to Linnseus, it began to be known generally in Europe. Linnaeus classed as Amaryllis a number of plants that have since been separated under other generic designations. But he made considerable progress nevertheless towards a clear definition, prepar¬ ing the way thereby for the labours of Dean Herbert half a century subsequently. This good churchman devoted to these plants an immensity of labour in determining distinctive characters, raising \=— - - - hybrids, and reducing to order all the Amaryllids known in his time. The first publication of his views occurred in the “Botanical Maga¬ zine ” in the year 1820, under the description of Amaryllis reticulata (t. 2, 113). These views were illustrated in a remarkable manner in a paper on “ The Production of Hybrid Vegetables, ” published in Ihe Transactions of the Horticultural Society ” in the year 1822. In a treatise on the order published subsequently he developed a complete system of classification, one result of which was to give to Amaryllis Belladonna, otherwise known as the Belladonna Lily of the Gape ol Good Hope, the sole honour of representing the classic beauty Amaryllis. The South American plants that are nearest allied to the Belladonna were classed under Hippeastrum, this generic designation being in reality adopted from Linnseus, who at least supplied the idea. It is necessary here to be explicit. In the “ Paradisus Batavus of Paul Herrman, published 1698, is a description of a pjant called Lilium americanum puniceo, the Red American Lily. This plant Linnseus named Amaryllis equestris and it is so entered m the “ Hortus Kewensis,” and under the same name is figured in the “ Botanical Magazine ” of the year 1795 (t. 305) and the ‘'Botanical Register,” 1817 (t. 234). The flower of this species is somewhat irregular in form, and the spathes of two leaves stand up like a pair of ears, and thus, according to story No. 1, the specific name equestris refers to a fancied resemblance of the flowers to the head of a horse. But story No. 2 alters the case. In a description of the lovely Amaryllis reticulata, by Dr. Sims, in the “ Botanical Maga¬ zine ” of the year 1803 (t. 657), the learned editor says, “ We take this opportunity of correcting a mistake of the late Mr. Curtis, in saying that Linnseus gave the name equestris to the Amaryllis referred to as such. The fact is, this name was given from the remarkable likeness the front view of it has to a star of some of the orders of knighthood.” Thus the Hon. and Rev. William Herbert followed out the suggestion of Linnseus when he made a bold separation between the Amaryllis of Africa and those of America, renaming the western group Hippe¬ astrum, the Equestrian Star, the justification for which will be found at page 144 et seq. of his treatise on the Amaryllidacese. The dis- t notion is not geographical merely, but is founded on minute details of structure and the order of the leafing. It is proper here to say that to Dean Herbert we are not solely indebted for scientific knowledge of the Amaryllis. Of the labours of the professional botanists it is not needful to speak in a special manner, because we must refer to them again and again in the treat¬ ment of a subject of this kind. But at this point I feel bound to mention that, concurrently with the study of these plants by Dean Herbert, they were collected and cultivated with spirit and discretion by Mr. Griffin of South Lambeth, to whom the “ Botanical Register ” was often indebted for figures of the more characteristic species. Mr. Ker named the pseudo-genus Griffinia in honour of this gentleman. In a few of the references cited it will have been noticed that the Amaryllis has been at one time designated a Narcissus, and at another time a Lily, and again the compound term Lilio-narcissus has been used. The distinction between a true Amaryllis and a true Lily rests on the position of the ovary. For the casual observer — or say, for a visitor to the flower show — there are some obvious distinctions that will be found of service. The Lilies have leafy flower stems without spathes ; the Amaryllis have naked flower stems, and the flowers spring from a spathe such as Parkinson would describe as a “ skinny husk.” But these distinctions have no scientific value, as the orders are at present defined, for the exceptions would not prove the rule ; thev would destroy it. To give an account of the several species would needlessly prolong this discourse. But a certain number must be referred to because of their importance as cultivated plants. One of the earliest and most distinct is Amaryllis Reginse, which was flowered by Fairchild of Hoxton in the year 1728. A folio pamphlet containing a history of the plant was written by James Douglas, who named it Lilium Reginas. Its first appearance in the “ Botanical Magazine ” occurred in the year 1799. The flower has a short funnel and a capacious limb, the colour is crimson, and the star is fully displayed. A. vittata was first figured in the “ Botanical Magazine” in 1788 (t. 128). The flower is always smallish, with a decided funnel, and the petals are elegantly striped, and the progeny, even at two or three removes, partakes of this character. A. reticulata was introduced in 1777 by Dr. E. W. Gray, and was figured in the “ Botanical Magazine ” in the year 1803 (t. 657). It is of the most elegant form, approximating to that of a Convolvulus. The tube of moderate length, the limb delicately reticulated in shades of rich lively rose. A. equestris dates from 1710. It is a fine flower of medium size, with short funnel, the limb crimson or scarlet, displaying a bold green star. A variety of this, named major, grown by Mr. Griffin, and figured in the “ Botanical Register ” of 1817 (t. 234), very strikingly resembles some modern hybrids of A. pardina, and in place of a green star it has a bold white centre, the outer portions of the limb being of a fiery vermilion colour. The more celebrated A. aulica was first figured in the “ Botanical Register ” in 1820 (t. 444). It was imported from Brazil by Mr. Griffin, and flowered with him at South Lambeth for the first time in December, 1819. In this the elements of a crown are perceptible, and the leafage is peculiar. The form of the flower is far away from what would be termed the florist type, the petals being narrow and — y March so, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 263 separated. But in a variety named platypetala, obtained from the Organ mountains by Mr. Harrison of Aigburgh, near Liverpool, about the year 1825, the most splendid floral characters are developed. The colour of this variety is rich deep crimson with a bold green star that is sometimes prolonged to the extremities of the divisions, which are short, smooth, and so broad as to overlap and form a noble flower. All the foregoing, and many more that I cannot stay to mention, have been registered as Amaryllis. But in the year 1822 the charac¬ ters of Hippeastrum were set forth by Dean Herbert, and the new designation was adopted in the “ Botanical Magazine ” in the year 1825, when there appeared a figure of Hippeastrum solandriflorum (t. 2573). Some others appeared under the new generic name, as for example H. ambiguum and H. breviflorum in 1837. Now, in the history of the flower it is proper to record another episode. In the “ Botanical Magazine ”it was an Amaryllis for a period of about thirty-five years. Then it became a Hippeastrum for a period of forty-five years. But in describing a splendid species discovered in Peru by Messrs. Veitch & Sons’ collector, Mr. Pearce, in J une, 18G7, Sir J. D. Hooker named it Amaryllis pardina. Having done so, he felt bound to justify the proceeding, and he did so by saying that the differences recognised by Herbert were so slight and variable as to be of no practical value. Therefore the original generic designation was restored ; Linnaeus triumphed, and Amaryllis is herself again. The introduction of A. pardina opens a new chapter in the history of this flower. Its name implies that it is spotted like the leopard, but that quality is not much valued by the florists. It is of more importance to say that this flower is distinguished by great breadth of petal and the absence of a funnel, a fact favourable to the expansion of the flowers to a symmetrical face. More than any of its race introduced up to the year 1867, A. pardina stirred the blood of the florists and gave new zest to the labours of the hybridists, who, however, soon discovered that, with all its fine qualities, it is not the model for breeding from that they would themselves have created had they been permitted to assist in the work of the third day as recorded in the Book of Genesis. But the model was ready for all that ; like many other desirable things, it was made with the rest on the third day and remained to be discovered. This was secured in Peru by Mr. Pearce. It appears that the King of the Belgians, one of the most generous and enlightened patrons of horticulture in this flowery world, admired the flower when it was shown at South Kensington in the year 1869, and it was named in honour of his visit Amaryllis Leopoldi. It is as truly the king of the Amaryllis as Lilium auratum is the queen of the Lilies. It possesses all the elements of a perfect florists’ flower in breadth of petal, depth of colour, a sharply defined star, and petals superbly tipped with white or an approximation thereto. It is sufficiently defective as a florists’ flower to afford work for the hybridist and excitement to the critics, and to give peculiar interest to the splendid series of varieties that chiefly by its aid have been raised by Messrs. Veitch & Sons of Chelsea. The hybrids figured in the year 1865 in Van Houtte’s “ Flore des Serres ” were, in a way, wonders of their time ; but we have got far beyond the flowers with funnels and indefinite green stains, and look for expanded flowers of the most perfect symmetry both of form and colour, and with novel markings to give the charm of variety to collections. At this point it seems proper to remark that in cross-breeding plants varieties occasionally occur that have the individuality, the vigour, and the power of determining the characters of future gene¬ rations that we associate with species. For all that we know to the contrary they are species, and although brought about by human agency, have nevertheless been brought about in Nature’s way, and with none but Nature’s materials. Some such we have in an Amaryllis called Acramanni pulcherrima, raised by Messrs. Garraway of Bristol, in 1850, from A. aulica platypetala and A. Johnsoni. This Acra¬ manni pulcherrima is a narrowish flower of fine quality, the colour rich deep crimson with a subdued green star. It has the potentiality of a species for the purposes of the raiser, and has influenced the hybrids immensely. One of the finest varieties in which we see the influence of this plant is that named Dr. Masters, in which there is scarcely a trace of green, while the form and colouring are delightful. When we get amongst the varieties, however, it begins to be time to cease talking ; therefore it seems proper to devote the last chapter of this discourse to the general subject of the varieties. And the great question in connection with that general subject is, By what rules are we to judge the hybrids ? for a code of properties is very much needed. From the point of view of the critical florist the funnel is objectionable, but happily that is pretty well got rid of. The shorter the flower the more complete, generally speaking, is its expansion, and, above all things, expansion is requisite to the display of the colour. Now let us, as severe critics, find as many faults as possible with the hybrid Amaryllis. The funnel is objectionable, even in its present severe limitation. The petals are unequal, and the front petal especially needs to be remodelled. For our present purpose we may regard all the divisions of the perianth as petals, although we might with propriety call the three outer divisions sepals, and the three inner divisions petals. The length of the lowest of the three is noticeable as a fault in all the varieties. Another fault is the green colour that so frequently occurs, but occasionally this assumes a beautiful form, and therefore I think it would be a mistake to condemn the green colour in toto. It will in due time change to white, and a soft creamy white would probably tell with great power if symmetrically associated with high crimson colour. In a good form of A. Leopoldi we see a well-defined star, and the petals are tipped with white. A self-coloured flower should be pure throughout, but we may recognise a star of good form and marginal colour corresponding, and thus we may have self-coloured flowers, starred or striped flowers, and tipped flowers. As a matter of fact we have all these already, but the persistency of the green colour is a common blemish. A great point in the new race is the growth of leaves and flowers concurrently. This is an immense gain, and we must make it a point of importance in estimating the merits of a variety. It is likely, too, that as the plant learns to produce leaves and flowers simultaneously, it will also learn that the green star in the flower is no longer needed, and thus improvement of the leafage will operate to the advantage of the flower, and we shall obtain the white, and perhaps the yellow star, that seems to be so much needed for the attainment of perfection. It may be properly urged that there are many beautiful species and varieties that are far removed from the properties thus sug¬ gested as desirable. It is no part of my business to condemn any of them ; rather I would say, Let us rejoice at the infinite variety of Nature, and feast upon beauty that is as yet “ unadorned,” and therefore is “ adorned the most.” We have but to do with these as with other flowers. All the Roses and Pelargoniums and Azaleas that are at once beautiful and useful, and yet wanting in the properties that constitute floral perfection, are classed as “ decorative,” and are judged as such. These we hand over to the gardeners and the world at large. But all the ugly and useless flowers that Nature appears to have produced for her own private enjoyment we handover to the botanists, and those learned people appear to appreciate our gene¬ rosity. We say of such things, “Take them upstairs,” and they forthwith go to delight the philosophers who dwell in our upper room. There are many beautiful species and varieties of Amaryllis that must for ever stand apart from the group that we judge as florists’ flowers, and these cannot be disparaged by the operation within a certain circle of laws that have the sanction of experience, because consistent with the aims of Nature and the demands of common sense. The florists are sometimes regarded as a narrow¬ minded lot. But it will be found that their minds are broad enough to enable them to select for their own enjoyment the most beautiful flowers, and, if other people prefer the kinds that they reject, they are generous enough to leave them to the free exercise of their choice. REVIEW OF BOOK. The Herefordshire Pomona , Containing Coloured Figures and Descriptions of the Most Esteemed Kinds of Apples and Pears Cultivated in Great Britain. Edited by Robert Ho go, LL D., F.L.S. Part V. London : Journal of Horticulture Office, 171, Fleet Street, London, E.C. The history, or, more correctly speaking, the literary descrip¬ tion, of any branch of science, must in time come to an end ; but the illustrations of that science are continuous, and where Nature is concerned, as in fruits, unending. Thus in former parts of “ The Herefordshire Pomona ” we have had papers on “ The Early History of the Apple and Pear : Thomas Andrew Knight and his work in the Orchard,” “ Modern Apple Lore,” “ A Sketch of the Life of Lord Scudamore,” a paper “ On the Cordon System of Growing Pears,” “The Crab: its Characteristics and Associa¬ tions,” and “ The Orchard and its Products : Cider and Perry.” All this history and quotations from all sources, here a line of poetry, there prose stories, and wonderfully wide reading have the writers shown ; but all is now over — end it must, and end it is. But there were in every one of the four previously issued parts coloured portraits, or pictures drawn from the life, of chosen specimens of Apples and Pears. These are now continued in this part, and of these it entirely consists. History of cider- making must end, theory and practice of fermentation are done with, the orchard in its commercial aspect has been written of and is over, but how many parts of a “Pomona” would it take to insert pictures and descriptions of fruits worthy to be pictured and described ? But though “ of the making of books there is no end,” yet of the making of a book of one kind there must naturally be an end, and the gorgeous “ Herefordshire Pomona ” is drawing to a close, for only two more parts are to be issued. Of Part v., now under review, we have first a description and portrait of the Old Golden Pippin, so old that possibly these are the very Apples of which Shakespeare speaks when he makes Evans say, “ I will make an end of my dinner, there’s Pippins and cheese to come.” Or they might have been stewed Pippins. Of this Apple there is a far and wide-spread notion, descending from the mistake of T. A. Knight, that it is now in the last stage of decay. I can only say that each year, or nearly so, I grow in JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 264 [ March 29, 1883. my own garden here in Wiltshire Old Golden Pippins as good as they possibly can be in shape, appearance of skin, and also in size and flavour. There is one point in Golden Pippins which they share with the Summer Golden Pippin — viz., niceness of shape, and these two in pleasingness of form excel to my mind every other Apple. There are no offensive ribs, and no squattiness, as in some Apples. The portraits — for there are three Golden Pippins represented on a branch — are among the best. Plate ii. of this part represents five Pears, the most noticeable being Chaumontel (would England were warm enough to grow it well !) and Napoleon, of which a most accurate portrait is given. This is a Pear which is more juicy than rich in flavour, and is now excelled by many November Pears. The next plate (xxxix.) is of Apples — Red Hawthornden, which beautiful fruit we owe to Richard Smith & Co. ; Sleeping Beauty, a Lincolnshire Apple ; Schoolmaster ; The Queen, once called The Claimant, a name judiciously dropped ; Gravenstein, which I can thoroughly recom¬ mend for the southern and western counties at least, and Rymer. Plate xi. is of Pears, and though most of them are neither of particularly pleasing shape or colour, are well done, and an im¬ provement upon those in Part iv. The larger of the two British Queens is an instance of this. Plate xli. is one of Apples — Barcelona Pearmain, handsome and useful ; Scarlet Nonpareil, which ought to be on all dessert dishes at Christmas time ; Margil, small but pleasant eating ; Cornish Aromatic ; and last of the five, Cornish Gilliflower. There is an idea even in Cornwall that this Apple is dying out, and a belief that in other parts of England it will not fruit. Both of these are mistakes. It is to be bought when wanted, and its not fruiting is owing to that pertinacious pruning of pyramids which I hope is going out of fashion. If you closely prune Cornish Gilliflower you cut away the fruit buds, as it blossoms like Irish Peach, only on the end of each shoot. It is beyond all winter Apples in distinctness of flavour, and it bears well, though not every year, perhaps, in North Wilts. The plate that follows (xlii.) is one of the best of all, witness the accuracy of two of its portraits — Bishop’s Thumb and MarCchal de Cour, improperly printed here under the fruit Mardchal dele Cour ; this Pear is among the best twenty Pears known. Bishop’s Thumb is an old favourite near Bath. In the remains of the once famous orchards which existed between the Great Western Railway station and the city many a well-grown standard of Bishop’s Thumb reared its fine head ; and now, though the orchards are to a degree built over, yet behind some small villa you will find in its little back garden a handsome standard of this kind of Pear. In my curate days I had one outside my then residence, and hoped devoutly never to have the Bishop’s thumb on me, but only on my house ! ' Eight cooking Apples are represented on Plate xliii. — Hoary- Morning ; Gooseberry Apple, which nurserymen will not send you, but in its place Gooseberry Pippin, a little eating Apple, whereas Gooseberry Apple is large and a very late keeper. N.B.— I wish nurserymen would only supply fruits true to name, and not supply another in the place of one ordered. I wish this N.B. would be particularly observed, for many of us amateurs are sufferers in this way. I have sent to distant parts of England aud been so disappointed. Lemon Pippin, rightly named from its Lemon-like shape, is No. 3 ; Green Woodcock and Striped Monstrous Reinette follow, and then two of the very best — viz., Northern Greening and Yorkshire Greening, neither of which can be too highly praised. A very pretty Pear plate is No. xliv., leaves and fruit being well done. The little Citron des Cannes, the richly-coloured Beurrd Capiaumont, pleasant-shaped Colmar d’Ete, Beurrd de l’Assomp- tion, in regard to which the section and the portrait of the whole Pear do not at all agree, the section being very inferior in shape and size. Fondante de Cueine, “a Pear superior in flavour to Beurrd Giffard” says Dr. Hogg, which indeed it can easily be. Plate xlv. gives us some cider Apples. 1, Joeby Crab, a queer name, said to be a corruption of “jovial.” When a Hereford¬ shire labourer becomes merry from too much cider it is a rural pleasantry to say to him, “ Ah ! you’ve been in the sun, you be soon got joby,” hence “Joeby” Crab makes, or is supposed to make, strong cider. Next “ Cuming,” another queer name, though there is a place of that name in Radnorshire. Next follows the well-known Somersetshire cider Apple, King¬ ston Black, or, as it is more commonly called, Taunton Black. I have seen between Taunton and Bridgwater whole orchards of nothing but this Apple ; the trees large in size and very shapely, each tree alike, and the fruit abundant, and in good years larger in size than the portrait here given. The exceedingly rich and unusual colour of the Apple is very striking, so deep a crimson on one side that there is some excuse for its being called “black.” I have never seen any cider Apple so large. Next is another Somersetshire cider Apple, the Cadbury or Royal Wilding. There are two Cadburys in Somerset, North and South, near Castle Cary, and a hill called Cadbury near Congresbury, and in that neigh¬ bourhood these Apples used to be, and perhaps are now, grown in the hedgerows. Two other Wildings fill the page, Wilding Bittersweet and Green Wilding, but neither has a history. A plate, No. xlvi., of perry Pears naturally follows. Butt Pear and New Meadow and Parsonage, old but unhistoric. Aylton Red, Pint Pear, and Pine Pear equally without a history ; while Arlingham Squash is no doubt from a village of that name in Gloucestershire near the Severn. We return in plate xlvii. to Apples Benoni, Fearn’s Pippin, Trumpington, the first and last of supposed American origin, but why the last with its English name, a name of a village so well known to all Cambridge men, should be supposed to be American I can scarcely comprehend. Pearson’s Plate, Ord’s Apple, and Lucombe’s Pine are all of undoubted English origin. These six Apples are all highly coloured though small. Now we come to the last picture, last and one of the best. We have in it five fine Pears — Urbaniste, from Malines or Mechlin in Belgium, as also Deux Soeurs, a Pear which sprung up in the garden of two sisters, and hence received its affectionate name. De Maraise and Belle Julie, both raised by Yan Mons : the latter Pear has this great recommendation, “ it is a great and certain bearer.” The last figured and described in this part of the “ Pomona” is Jewess, raised at Malines, and fruited in 1843. It received its name from growing against a wrall which bounded the street called “ Rue des Juifs.” Such in little is a description of the “ Herefordshire Pomona.” Naturally enough the letterpress is different and not quite so interesting as the former parts, but in usefulness it is not excelled by any part that has yet appeared. — Wiltshire Rector. ROYAL BOTANIC SOCIETY. March 28th. The first spring Show of the present year was held in the con¬ servatory and corridor at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent’s Park, on Wednesday last, and though the exhibits were not quite so numerous as on some previous occasions, yet in the majority of cases the quality was all that could be desired. A very bright and interesting display was produced, and the arrangement was tasteful, the corridor being particularly attractive. Bulbs. — The competition in the classes for these was not very keen, but the plants shown were generally of good quality. For twelve Hyacinths Mr. J. Douglas, gardener to F. Whitbourn, Esq., Great Gearies, Ilford, Essex, was first with handsome examples of General Havelock, Grand Lilas, Yon Schiller, Lord Derby, Yuurbaak, Fabiola, Ida, Marie, La Grandesse, Koh-i-Noor, Grandeur 4 Merveille, and King of Blues. Mr. H. Eason, gardener to B. Noakes, Esq., Hope Cottage, North Hill, Highgate, was second with a good collection but with smaller spikes. The last-named exhibitor -was also first with twelve Tulips in the amateurs’ class, being closely followed by Mr. J. Douglas, who also gained the first prize for the only collection of twelve Narcissi, healthy and well flowered. Messrs. Cutbush & Sons, Highgate, had the best twelve Tulips in the nurserymen’s class, Messrs. H. Williams following in that class, but taking first with twelve Hyacinths, and being followed by Messrs. W. Cutbush >fe Son3 and R. J. Wood. Amaryllises. — In the open cla«s for six Amaryllises Mr. E. Baxter, gardener to W. S. Parker, Esq., White Lodge, East Barnet, won the first prize with Empress of India, The Baron, Foxhunter, Crimson King, Lizzie Brooks, and Novelty ; healthy strong plants with large flowers. Mr. J. Wiggins, gardener to H. Little, Esq., Uxbridge, and Mr. R. Butler, gardener to H. H. Gibbs, Esq., St. Dunstan’s, Regent’s Park, were second and third respectively with good plants. Cyclamens. — Several good collections of these were staged, the first-prize and twelves in the amateurs’ and open class from Mr. Wiggins being particularly vigorous and well-flowered. Messrs. Clarke and E. Baxter followed in both classes, the former with very satisfactory specimens, healthy, and bearing very large flowers. Mr. J. Douglas was placed first in the open classes for nine hardy Primulas and the same number of herbaceous plants, the former in¬ cluding plants of Primula nivea, P. cashmeriana, P. marginata coerulea, and P. rosea ; the others Comprising specimens of Pul- monaria virginica, Fritillaria Meleagris alba, Muscari botryoides, Sanguinaria canadensis, and Narcissus Princess. Mr. G. Wheeler, gardener to Lady L. Goldsmid, St. John’s Lodge, Regent’s Park, for hardy plants, Solomon’s Seal, Spiraeas, and Pulmonaria officinalis being notable. Azaleas were not largely represented, and the plants generally were not so good as usual. In the amateurs’ class Mr. A. Ratty, gardener to R. Thornton, Esq., The Hoo, Sydenham, was first with healthy specimens ; Mr. E. Baxter second, and Mr. Wiggins third. In the nurserymen’s class for six Mr. H. James, Castle Nursery, Lower Norwood, was first with very neat specimens. Messrs. H. Williams, J. Douglas, and R. J. Wood, Haverstock Hill, were the prizewinners with Lilies of the Yalley, showing large potfuls bearing numerous flowers. March 29, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 265 Messrs. H. Williams & Sons, Fortis Green, Finchley, E. Baxter, and R- Butler were the prizetakers in that order for six Chinese Primulas, but none of the plants were of remarkable merit. Mr. J. Douglas secured the first prize for the only collection of twelve pots of Crocuses — viz., fine specimens of such varieties as Purpurea grandi- flora, President Grant, Marie Stuart, and Golden Yellow. For six Deutzias Mr. J. Douglas took the lead with the large plants that are now so well known at exhibitions, they were flowering most freely. Mr. Wiggins was second with smaller but well-flowered plants, and Mr. Eason was third. Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshunt, were the only exhibitors of six Roses in pots, and gained the chief prize with fine plants of Edouard Morren, Caroline Kuster, Madame Victor Verdier, Madame Therese Levet, La France, and Duke of Teck. Miscellaneous. — The collections and groups not in competition formed the chief portion of the Show, very prominent being the superb bank of Hyacinths from Messrs. J. Yeitch & Sons, Chelsea, for which a large silver medal was awarded. The plants were the same as those shown at Kensington on the previous day, and are noted in the report. A large silver medal was also awarded to Mr. B. S. Williams of Upper Holloway for groups of Cyclamens, Hyacinths, and Tulips, which were also at Kensington. A small silver medal was awarded to Messrs. J. Carter & Co., High Holborn, for a large and tasteful group of Cinerarias, Deutzias, Dielytras, and Primulas. A similar award was also granted to Mr. Wiggins for a group of well-grown Cyclamens, and bronze medals to Mr. H. James, Slough, for a group of handsome Cinerarias ; and to Mr. H. Clarke, Twickenham, was awarded a bronze medal for a collection of Cyclamens. A small silver medal was adjudged to Mr. Anthony Waterer, Knap Hill, Surrey, for a handsome collection of hardy Primulas and Poly¬ anthuses, with a few plants of Andromeda japonica. A similar award was granted to Messrs. W. Cutbush & Sons, Barnet, for an extensive collection of Hyacinths and Tulips, and to Messrs. Paul and Son for a group of Roses. WO RKjwhe W E EK, . : Vllnl tsj [By the most shilful Cultivators in the several Departments.'] KITCHEN GARDEN. Op all the years we have practised kitchen gardening we have experienced no spring so backward as the present one, and we cannot conceal the fact that our spring vegetables are more backward and less promising than they were six weeks ago. For the past three weeks we have had frost nightly, sometimes as much as 20°, and never less than 8°. Accompanying this were some most destructive winds, which penetrated everywhere, and the consequence is that the majority of protectors of an ordinary description were useless. Potatoes sheltered under fern, branches, and leaves in the open borders were destroyed in one night ; Cauliflower plants put out in shallow trenches and covered with inverted flower pots appear as if boiling water had been poured on them ; Onions coming through the ground have the points of the young shoots quite withered ; spring Cabbages, which gave every indication of forming large white centres by this date, are now only a drooping mass of useless leaves ; spring Broccoli, which should have been in by the hundred, have no heads— in short, vegetables at the present time are a complete wreck. Hope is our only consolation, and perseverance must be our practice. Many seeds consigned to the ground immediately before the frost came are not yet showing any signs of life, yet it is hoped they are safe. Judging from all accounts this state of matters must be general, and many will be at their wit’s end to know from whence to draw a supply of produce. Whenever the weather will allow quick-growing vegetables should have the greatest attention. Spinach is one of the quickest crops to become useful, and where it is valued large quantities of seed should be sown on the first favourable opportunity. Asparagus may be expected to make rapid progress as soon as the weather is favourable. Where no other kind of manure is available soot and salt mixed together and applied at the rate of one handful to each root weekly will be productive of much good. Where Potatoes have been cut down let them have time and they may yet prove productive. Later-planted tubers which were not far enough advanced to be checked will now give the first crops. The growths of these should be protected as they are seen above ground. All seeds not yet sown should be kept in the bags until there is a certainty of their being safely used. Ground which has been occupied with late crops should be trenched or dug and prepared for the next crop. All work which can possibly be done should be forwarded. There will be many arrears to bring up by-and-by, and these when they can be done should not be interrupted with any kind of work which might have been accomplished in the time of frost. Under glass activity should be everywhere the rule. The majority of vineries and Peach houses have now been started into growth, and there are no better places than these in which to forward vegetables of all kinds. Gentle hotbeds, too, should be made everywhere, and with whatever material can be had for their formation. If only a few cartloads of hot manure can be procured any kind of refuse will do to increase its bulk. With the assistance of this and frames and lights young Celery plants, spring-sown Cauliflowers, Lettuce, early Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Radishes, and everything of the kind may be brought forward. The Radishes and Lettuces will soon become ready for use, and the other plants can be forwarded to plant out in the open when the weather becomes favourable. We have many thousands of young plants now in these positions, and these will be of the utmost use further on. Large quantities of French Beans should be sown in every available space ; Tomatoes coming into bloom and swelling their fruit may have a temperature of 70° by night and 80° by day ; Cucumbers will do well under the same con¬ ditions. Use the syringe on fine days to expel insects. Pot Vegetable Marrow and Egg-plants. They all require rich soil and a genial atmosphere at this time. PLANT HOUSES. Azaleas. — Plants that have been forced should after flowering be assisted to make their growth. A good place for them is a Peach house or vinery at work, or any position where slight shade can be given and a moist night temperature of 55° or G0° main¬ tained. It is decidedly preferable to encourage them at this season than to subject them to hard forcing when wanted to flower during winter or early spring, which not unfrequently ends in failure. Plants that make their growth and set their flower buds early force into flower when wanted with ease and certainty, in fact unfold their blooms almost naturally as soon as heat is applied. When these plants have started fairly into growth and their roots are active potting can be done if required. Before commencing this operation see that the soil is sufficiently moist, so that no water will be needed for some days after repotting. Use clean pots and afford liberal drainage, which should be care¬ fully placed in the pots and covered with a layer of moss. Good fibrous peat, with a liberal admixture of silver sand, is the most suitable compost for these plants. Remove the old drainage carefully, but do not disturb the remaining portion of the old ball. The new soil must be pressed firmly into ihe pots round it, so that water when applied will not pass through it and leave the old soil dry, which means serious injury and even death if the error be not quickly detected. If repotting is not necessary apply weak liquid manure, or, better still, give two or three applications on the surface during the season of some artificial manure pur¬ posely prepared for plants in pots. This in many instances will prove as beneficial as repotting. Keep a sharp look-out for thrips, and on the first appearance of the insects wash the plants with the solution recommended a few weeks ago. Forced Shrubs. — Deutzias, Prunuses, and other similar plants that have ceased flowering should he cut close back and started in growth quickly. When faiily started they can be given larger pots if needed. Use for potting rich loam, with one-seventh of manure and sand. If repotting is not required employ stimulants, for the stronger their growths, provided they are ripened, the more beautiful these plants are when in flower. Cuttings of Deutzias strike readily in heat, and if rooted at once will the second year make valuable plants for decoration in 5-inch pots. The Prunus cuttings should be taken off with a small heel, or they will fail to root. Ghent and Mollis Azaleas, Rhododendrons, and other hardy shrubs that have been forced early, should have positions in cool houses to make their growth until they can be safely placed out¬ side. This is necessary if they are required again for forcing the following autumn and winter. If placed directly outside from the flowering house they seldom recruit themselves under two years. Dielytras should be gradually hardened off to be finally planted outside. Spiima japonica can be thrown away after flowering if a judicious system of preparation by division is practised annually to raise the required stock for forcing ; if not they can be hardened, and when safe planted out for two years to recruit themselves. Zonal Pelargoniums. — Those that bloomed in the autumn and early winter and have been kept moderately dry and at rest for JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 29, \m. 266 some time past can now be cut back and encouraged by more moisture and a little warmth to break into growth. The old soil can then be much reduced, and the plants placed in the same or smaller pots as they may require. Plants that discontinued flowering during the winter and have been carefully watered and kept in a temperature of 45° will, if afforded a little more heat, again flower freely in a week or two. Give these and others that have been flowering for some time weak stimulants every time watering is necessary. Young plants that were rooted in autumn and kept quiet during the winter in 3 and 4-inch pots should now be repotted, and if they are wanted to come into flower at once place them in a temperature of 50°. Those not wanted to flower should be kept cooler, and the points of the shoots pinched out. Keep them as close as possible to the glass, and admit air on all favourable occasions after the roots are working in the new soil. Pot firmly with good loam, sand, and a little manure. Insert cuttings singly in thumb pots of free-flowering varieties to grow for autumn and winter-flowering, and place them on a shelf in a temperature of 60°, where they will root readily and quickly. THE PLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Planting and Pruning Roses. — Where the Roses bought in during the winter are still laid in by the heels no time should be lost in properly planting them. They will be found to have formed many new fibrous roots, and care should be taken not to injure these when planting. This difficulty may be obviated by covering them with a small quantity of light soil obtained from the frame ground. The majority of dwarf Roses are worked on the Manetti stock, and in this case the union must be covered with soil, or failure will eventually result. When properly planted the budded Roses emit vigorous roots near the junction, and this in a manner becomes independent of the Manetti stock. Established dwarf and standard Roses may now be finally pruned, and the latter should be well secured to stakes, as they seldom thrive if allowed to twist sni blow about. When pruning cut away all very weakly growths, thin out those retained if crowded, and in the case of standards it may be necessary to regulate the heads by shortening back some of the main branches to a good inner growth. Strong growths on standards may be left 12 inches long. Moderate-sized shoots — say the size round of a lead-pencil — may be cut back to the third or fourth bud, and others in propor¬ tions, giving the preference to those outwardly disposed. Dwarfs are most apt to develope extra strong shoots, and as hard prun¬ ing only aggravates the evil these are best slightly shortened and firmly pegged down. In this way they will flower freely, and the weaker growths will be strengthened. The following season they should be cut clean away, and be replaced by other vigorous growths should there be any formed. We treat all alike, shaping our course more with regard to the growth of the indi¬ vidual plant rather than the section to which it may happen to belong, and find we rarely make a mistake. UN-GET-AT-ABLE HIVES. Mr. Pettigrew concludes that we used the above term as appli¬ cable to straw skeps “ only as a figure of speech,” and not as a word really conveying our “ own sober thoughts,” and that we must know that “ hives un-get-at-able aro unknown in the apiarian world.” Wrhen speaking of straw hives as un-get-at-able we used the word comparatively, and we still hold that the skep compared with the bar- frame hive is un-get-at-able. If we attempted to read carefully and thoroughly the pages of a book, or we will say of this Journal, before using a paper knife, we may manage with much trouble, certainly to make ourselves cognisant of much of its con¬ tents, but we could not succeed at all to our satisfaction. It would he un-get-at-able. Its pages must be cut and opened one by one in order that they may be comfortably digested. The uncut book or Journal is the skep, the bar-frame hive has its pages cut, and every wonderful lesson spelt out on those pages is fully exposed to the reader so plainly that we might say, “ He who runs can read them.” As we of the bar-frame school have been always willing to admit, the skep has its advantages. These have over and over again been dilated on. We should like to have a hive made of the same material — straw, which could be so arranged that every comb could be separated from its neighbours, and one by one be lifted out either for examination or for other of the many purposes for which the combs are employed in the bar-frame apiary. But at present we find that our book must have a wooden binding, and therefore we must do our best to protect tho binding from the action of the weather. But to return to Mr. Pettigrew’s letter. We have en¬ deavoured, at least in one point of view, to show that the word he complains of is not other than accurate, and not misleading. Mr. Pettigrew is a veteran bee-keeper, and, doubtless, he can remember men who fifty years ago were well informed in the mysteries of bee-keeping ; but he cannot surely convince either himself or the readers of this Journal that during those fifty years, while all other sciences have been rapidly developing, the science of bee-keeping has been at a standstill. Large harvests of honey were, and now are, obtained from the straw skep. This we admit, but it was, and is, obtained in a far less inviting form, either in or out of the comb, than that taken from the bar-frame hive. Let anyone compare the best straw super of comb honey, or bellglass filled over the straw skip, with the beautiful piles of 1 fib. or 2 lb. sections now seen at all our bee shows ; or let him compare the method of slicing up combs and straining the honey through sieves to the employment of the honey extractor, and say which honey or which method he would prefer. It is needless for us to compare the two kinds of hives when required for queen-raising. Mr. Pettigrew says he finds no diffi¬ culty in breeding queens, and in extracting queens as they arrive at maturity ; but can his large skeps be divided and subdivided as the bar-frame hive can to form nuclei, or nurseries for the various young queens where their fertilisation and breeding powers can be ascer¬ tained, and whence they can be given to any hive where and when needed ? Again, we know how easy it is to turn up a skep for examination, and by carefully getting it into one particular position so that the sun shines evenly between the combs its condition may be fairly scrutinised. But on a dull day there is not so much light thrown on the subject. We hardly know whether this is a truism or a pun. We only hope that the next time Mr. Pettigrew has an examination of a bar-frame hive made before him he will notice how much easier it is to see a comb and its occupants and contents when held up to broad daylight, than it is to examine any particular comb in a well-populated skep. Mr. Pettigrew has seen harvests of honey taken from straw hives which would please and astonish us and other modern bee-keepers. We already have proved that such harvests of honey are obtainable. In the year 1876 we had a straw skep which gave us over 140 lbs. of surplus honey, but it was in large supers, and had to be cut up before retailed. A London firm gave lOrZ. per lb. for it, and it was a fair price too. Half the quantity in neat sections would now sell for nearly an equal sum. We do not for a moment doubt that similar or even larger harvests will be obtained from bar-frame hives, as they have already yielded such remits to the gratification of their owners. Experientia docet, and the fifty years’ experience which Mr. Pettigrew has had enables him to prognosticate a good honey season. We must all agree in hoping that the anticipation may be realised, and that all bee-keepers when they make up their acoounts at the close of this year may have a large balance in their favour. Although we advocate the use of the bar-frame hive as the hive of the day, we do not for a moment wish to disparage the skep. If cottagers and others who still continue its use would get the surplus honey made over it into a more saleable form, it would be greatly to their interest. A tray of sections worked on the top to which the bees have access through a piece of excluder zinc would be of nearly double the value of the same weight of honey stored in glasses or straw caps. The excluder zinc should be fastened over a hole cut in the top of the skep (where a feeding hole has not been left in it when made), and the perforations should be five-twenty- fourths of an inch in diameter. The zinc is known as No. 12 in the trade. — P. H. P. BRITISH BEE-KEEPERS' ASSOCIATION. The usual monthly meeting of the Committee was held at 105, Jermyn Street, on the 14th inst., Mr. T. W. Cowan in the chair. The minutes of the last meeting having been read, confirmed, and signed, it was resolved that the Association’s annual Exhibition be held on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Monday, July 5th, 6th, 7th, and 9th. The Hon. Secretary announced that the Duke of Wellington had kindly granted the use of his riding school at Knightsbridge for the purpose of the annual Show. The Honey Market Committee presented their report, recommend¬ ing the appointment of a honey salesman, and suggesting, that a suitable place should be provided where samples of honey might be sent. Pending the appointment of a honey salesman Mr. Stewart undertook to receive samples of honey and to make arrangements for its sale. It was resolved that Mr. Stewart be empowered to incur the necessary expense in advertising, die., for the extension of the honey market. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. March 29, 1883 ] 267 The question of providing suitable rooms for the Association’s business was discussed at some length. It was the general opinion of the meeting that suitable rooms for the holding of meetings, for a bee-keepers’ club, and for the reception and sale of honey should be obtained. It was resolved that inquiries should be made for such rooms, and that advertisements should be inserted in the daily papers. The Honorary Secretary reported that he had been unable to obtain a grant for the purpose of holding an exhibition of bees, hives, honey, &c., in connection with the Bath and West of England Agricultural Show at Bridgwater. It was resolved that the Secretary be em¬ powered to visit Bridgwater and endeavour to secure a site for the holding of an exhibition of bees, hives, honey, &c., at the time of the Bath and West of England Agricultural Show, and that in the event of his being successful the following do constitute a special com¬ mittee for the management of this Show — viz., Mr. A. H. Martin, Worcestershire; Rev. J. G. Dangar and W. N. Griffin, Devon ; Mr. W. H. Dunman, Dorset ; Mr. C. Kent, Cornwall ; Mr. C. Tite, Somer¬ set ; Rev. W. E. Burkitt, Wilts ; Rev. J. Cooke, Gloucestershire ; Rev. J. E. Sale, Hereford ; Mr. L. 0. Lewis, Carmenthenshire ; Miss Swinton, Brecon. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. A. G. Dawson, Alma Buildings, Macclesfield. — Catalogue of Im¬ proved Bee Hives and Bee-keepers' Appliances. James Cocker & Sons, Aberdeen. — Catalogue of Florists’ Flowers for 1883. \* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Auricula Seed (T. T. Weston and Others'). — Tho Auricula seed that we undertook to distribute for the benefit of a sick gardener was all disposed of within a week of the announcement being made, and if there had been twice as much it would all have gone in the same short period of time. “ Single-handed ” has no more seed for disposal. Lawn Sand (C.). — We have not been informed of the composition of Watson’s or Fowler’s lawn saud, and scarcely expect to have the particulars sup¬ plied to us. The sand can be readily purchased from vendors of horticultural requisites. We do not know of anything else of a similar nature for destroying weeds on lawns. Honeydew on Camellias (J. IF.). — As we stated in answer to a corre¬ spondent last week, this is caused by insects. If you look carefully over your plants you will find that they are infested with either aphides or scale, both of which will cause the sticky appearance on the stems and branches of which you complain. The latter will most probably be the cause, as at this season of the year the scale will have commenced activity. If you have climbers or plants near your Camellias that are infested with insects, the honeydew may have fallen from them. Syringe the plants with a solution of petroleum, thoroughly mixing 4 ozs. of the oil in 4 gallons of water. If your plants have made much young tender foliage use half an ounoe less of the oil to a gallon of water. Gardenia Buds Deformed (IF. J.). — Your plants are evidently healthy from the appearance of the shoot sent. We have noticed on several occasions buds deformed the same as yours when they have been produced from the small side shoots in early spring, but not to the same extent as they appear to have done upon your plants. A check when the buds are in an embryo state, arising from the soil being kept too wet, causing torpidity of the roots, is sure to result in deformity, especially if the plants are kept in a high temperature, and thus their top growth is forced too rapidly for the sluggish roots to support the tlowers. This is the most probable cause of the failure in your case, but using paraffin too strong when the buds are small and tender always prevents the development of the flowers. Books and Reading (J. S.). — You have not the slightest idea of the magnitude and cost of production of such a work as you propose. According to your programme it would be the most voluminous and costly work in the language, and, so far from its preparation being “easy,” it would be extremely difficult. However competent the “few men’’ might be, the work of editing would be no ordinary task. The question is one that must be closely and care¬ fully considered by experts, as public discussion would be of no benefit what¬ ever. If all those who practise gardening were as commendably earnest as you are such a work might be undertaken with a fair prospect of success ; but we are compelled to say that the great majority are more or less apathetic in matters of this kind. You will perhaps be surprised to learn that half the works on gardeuing that have been published of late years have not defrayed the cost of production, and those who have produced them have lost more than their labour. It is true that not a few of the books are, as you say, of a trashy character. You propose something better, and your suggestion shall be well considered by those who are competent to discuss a m..tter of such importance. Fungus in Greenhouse (.4 Louth Subscriber). — We are not surprised to hear that "the action seems very peculiar ” in the “soil and manure.” The material is not in a fir condition for any greenhouse in its present rank and offensive state ; it is swarm ng with eggs, insects, and worms, and with the numerous fungi peculiar to fresh dung and refuse. Such uudecayed wet stuff acts as a direct poison on plants, and supplies the eggs and seeds of the worst plant parasites. Tho black-spotted Pelargonium leaves which you describe as covered with small “ergots, really very beautiful to look upon” — so thickly spotted, indeed, that one of our staff took them at first sight to be bad examples of an ally of the Hollyhock disease — have been examined by Mr. W. G. Smith, who describes them as the sporangia of a dung-borne fungus named Pilobolus roridus. This fungus is extremely common on rank dung ; it is called Pilobolus because it has a habit of elastically ejecting its sporidia in the air, and roridus from the appearance of the tops of the fertile fungus threads, which resemble dewdrops. A sporangium is a spore case or little flask containing the seeds of the fungus. They are shot through the air in Pilobolus as an aid towards per¬ petuating the species. You say you are “alarmed at the present aspect of things,” and the “ ergots ” have “ spread over the whole of the place, living and dead alike.” Your own comments show batter than anything we can say the improper condition of the soil and manure inside your greenhouse. Removing Tendrils on Young Vines ( E . D., Worcester). — We do not consider it a good plan to pinch off the tendrils from the leading growths of young Vines so closely as is practised by many persons. We remember once noticing some thousands of remarkably fine Vines in pots in Mr. Rivers’ nursery at Sawbridgeworth. The pots were standing on the hot-water pipes, and the growths trained about 18 inches apart up the roof above. The grower of these Vines was justly proud of his work. They bristled with tendrils, some of them a foot long and nearly as thick as quills. From a few of the Vines, however, the tendrils had been pinched off closely with the object of noting the effect. Only a dozen or so were so treated, and in every instance they were weaker than the others, which led the cultivator to remark : “ Depend upon it if you want the Vines to grow strong and well you must let them put out their horns.” Pruning Peach Trees (A Swedish Subscriber) —It is difficult to give advice in a case of this kind without knowing anything about the condition of the trees. A safe course for you to pursue would be rub off any growths from the shoots that have cast their flower buds, except one or two of the most promising at the base of each, and when these have grown 5 or G inches the useless portions can be cut out. You will thus avoid overcrowding the trees with a number of weak shoots, and at the same time not incite gumming by pruning too soon. It is essential that the growths of the present year be very thinly disposed, in order that every leaf shall be exposed to light and air, otherwise the shoots will not assume a fruitful character, and the flowers will fall again next year. Remove as much of the barren wood as is necessary to insure full exposure to the growths succeeding and no more. Pits and Frames ( R. S.) — It is not easy to answer your question cate¬ gorically, as so much depends on the nature of the crops you desire to cultivate and the time they are required for use, also on the means provided for affording heat. We can only say, that as a rule when the heat is imparted by hot-water pipes brick pits are preferable to wooden frames, but when only fermenting materials are afforded moveable frames are usually the most convenient. We think it a pity you removed the pits, whether they were heated by hot water or not, as they are so valuable for other purposes than early forcing, and a frame or two in addition to them would have probably cost loss than the amount incurred in the alterations. We have both brick pits and wooden frames, and scarcely know which we could spare the best, as both are about equally useful. Frozen Fruit Blossom ( B . 0., Hants).— The circumstance of your “ not understanding our statement that fruit blossom will expand after the organs of fructification have been destroyed ” does not alter the fact. AVe have examined fruit blossoms too closely to make any mistake on the point. There are, we fear, millions of flower buds of early-blossoming Pear trees apparently sound and fresh, but dead at the core. The peduncle and petals are not killed, and hence the flowers will expand, it may be as freely and appear as beautiful as if there had been no frost. The petals are much more hardy than the stamens, and these in turn appear more hardy than the pistil. AVe have dissected many blossom buds this week, and found in several instances the pistil killed, while the stamens were fresh. In a case of this kind it is absolutely impossible that fruit can follow. Had the pistils been sound and the stamens killed there would have been a ray of hope, as pollen from other flowers might have been wafted to these partially injured blossoms and resulted in their fertilisation. Examine the matter closely for yourself, and you will be fortunate if you do not soon experience what you at present “ cannot understand.” Sand for Potting ( F . C.). — Neither of the samples you have sent is silver sand, which is quite white and very much finer than even your roadside sample. This, if well washed by stirring it in a pail of water, pouring off the water and adding fresh until the last applied is quite clear, then drying the sand, would be useful for all ordinary purposes of propagation, so would the sea sand if the rougher particles were sifted out. For mixing with soil for potting this would do well as it is, also for mixing with soil for striking very large cuttings of any kind either in pots or the garden. The flowers of any particular Peach often vary somewhat in size and tint, and no one can determine the identity of your trees in their present state. AVe have seen flowers of the Royal George both larger and smaller than those you have sent, and equally dissimilar in tint. The weed has arrived quite fresh this time, and we shall possibly be able to identify it, though, as we have frequently stated, we do not undertake to name plants without flowers. Could you not have told us the height it attains, and. the size, form, and colour of the flowers it bears ? It shall be closely examined and referred to again. Petunias for Exhibition (A Pansy Amateur). — A shelf close to the glass of your vinery will be suitable for the Petunias so long as the plants are not shaded in the slightest degree by the growth of the Vines. These plants require unobstructed light, and cannot be well grown without it, also free ventilation and a genial atmosphere. The temperature of the vinery will be right for the plants until the Vines have made considerable growth ; after that time, or to winds the end of May if the weather be favourable, the Petunias will be better in a pit or frame, keeping them rather close for a few days, and gradually inuring them to more air until they can endure free ventilation, with the lights removed occasionally during very mild weather. If you do not possess a frame you must make the best of them in the vinery by assigning them the lightest posi¬ tion in the house. Shift the plants into 6-inch pots before they become root- bound, and again into 8-inch pots when the roots are seen protruding freely through the drainage. Let the soil in the pots, and that to be used be mode¬ rately moist when the repotting is done. Apply water cautiously, yet suffi¬ ciently, until the roots take possession of the fresh soil, then more copiously, according to the vigour of the plants and the state of the weather. Do not pinch the shoots and repot at the same time. Liquid manure will not be needed until the pots in which the plants are finally established are full of roots, and it may then be civen once or twice a week instead of again repotting. At this time, too, very liberal supplies of water will be needed, the pots to be stood on 2G8 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ March 29, 1883. a moist base. This is especially important in hot weather. The soil for the first shift may consist of half turfy loam, the remaining half of peat and leaf soil, with sand to make the compost porous ; for the final shift you may use two-thirds loam, and substitute decayed manure for the peat, adding also a fifteenth part of bonemeal. Continue stopping the shoot3 and tying to small stakes inserted at regular distances with the object of training the plants in the form of half-globes ; but the stopping must cease six weeks before the show. As the fixture is early, in all probability 7-inch pots will be large enough, but this can only be determined by the condition of the plants. Varieties are of far less importance than good culture, and it is very unwise for anyone who intends exhibiting to limit himself to the number of plants to be staged. At the least a third more ought always to be grown, so as to provide for con¬ tingencies and make a selection for the exhibition table. We do not know the variety you name, the person from whom you obtained it will no doubt be able to give you the information you need respecting it. If any plant is less vigorous than the others, grow it in a smaller pot. Stopping Vine Laterals— Twin Bunches of Grapes (Irish Rector ). —An extract from your letter will probably render our reply useful to others beside yourself. You observe “ Mr. Barron delays the stopping of the shoots much longer than Mr. Taylor— the latter recommending the point to be nipped out as soon as it can be done — and in trying to do this I had made the discovery for myself of the method of combining two bunches described by “ Druid,” for in one or two cases I nipped off more of the shoot than I intended, and now the eye at the base of the first bunch is beginning to push.” There is not so much difference in the practice of Mr. Barron and Mr. Taylor as you appear to sup¬ pose. Mr. Barron could not show so clearly by an illustration the method of stopping without allowing the lateral to extend somewhat before its point was removed ; and he says, “ The operation should be performed as soon as the shoot attains the requisite length by pinching off the tip at the point indicated (in the figures on p.p. 81—83 in his excellent book). There is thus scarcely anything to take off, and no consequent check to the growth of the Vine. It is very bad practice indeed to allow the shoots to grow to such a length as to render it necessary to use the knife in stopping them.” This is sound teaching, and in removing “ scarcely anything,” his advice is really identical with that given by Mr. Taylor in his valuable little work. As both these cultivators have dressed the same Vines in the Royal Horticultural Society’s Gardens at Chiswick, you will not find any great difference in their methods ; and we shall not be wrong in saying that if Mr. Barron were to dress the Longleat Vines he would follow Mr. Taylor’s present system, and if Mr. Taylor were to dress those at Chiswick he would do the work the same as it is done now under the direction of Mr. Barron. We are not surprised that a cultivator so observant as yourself should have noticed the method described by “Druid,” and figured on page 53, of making two distinct bunches appear as one. It is not only perfectly practicable, but we have seen clusters exhibited that had been produced in the manner there shown ; but the practice is by no means general, and it is not likely that they will be often staged as single bunches. Pruning Vines (II. S.).— The method of pruning must be determined by the state of the Vines and the varieties of Grapes that are grown. Nine-tenths of the bunches of Grapes that win prizes at exhibitions are the produce of Vines that have been pruned on the short-spur system, and that method is applicable to all free-bearing varieties when the Vines are in good condition— i.c., make strong yet short-jointed growth, with prominent buds at the base of the matured laterals. Vines that are excessively luxuriant may occasionally with advantage be pruned on what is termed the long-spur system, because the lowermost buds are often pointed and weak instead of being round and bold. We have no doubt that, as a rule, the best buds or eyes where the wood is ripe and firm containing little pith, produce the largest bunches, but they are not always the most compact and best-shaped examples, and good cultivators rarely find it necessary to adopt the system of pruning to those prominent buds that may be 6 inches or more from the main rods. At the same time such varieties as the Duke of Buccleuch, Gros Maroc, and frequently Gros Guillaume, bear better crops when a portion of young wood is retained than by cutting all off to within half an inch or so of the base of each lateral ; but it must bo remembered that this young wood canuot be fruitful unless the canes have been trained so thinly in the summer that the foliage could develope under the full influence of unobstructed light. Provided the roots of Vines are kept near the surface of the border and the foliage is not overcrowded the short-spur system of pruning is the best to adopt for all such free-bearing Grapes as the Black Hamburgh and Muscats— in fact for rhe majority of Grapes. The long-spur method, especially if practised by inexperienced amateurs, would almost inevitably lead to overcrowding, and possibly to such an extent that the Vines in a few years would be practically ruined. The long-rod is different from the long-spur system of pruning, and as a rule we should prefer it if we found occasion to change from the orthodox practice. Vines in Pots (Idem).—' “Will not pot Vines if moderately cropped pro¬ duce fruit year after year — like a Peach tree — in a pot ? And if not why not ? ” We print your question as we do not remember ever having an inquiry so briefly and concisely put on this subject. If you had a house large enough to allow of the leaves of your Vines in pots to develope under the direct action of the sun, and if the pots were large enough or ample support were given for the sustenance of the Vines, and these in other respects received proper attention, we have no doubt they would produce fruit « year after year.” But we doubt very much whether you possess either the skill or convenience for rendering that system of culture profitable. Why they cannot be grown in pots year after year “ like Peach trees ” is this : The leaves of a Vine are some ten times larger than those of a Peach tree, the growth is ten times stronger, and requires ten times more support. If you can afford space for these growths and dispose them for the sun to shine on all the leaves, and at the same time supply the Vines with the necessary food for sustaining their vigour, you may adopt the plan you indicate and expect fruit every year, more or less ; but we should fear some¬ thing would happen to cause it to be less rather than more as the Vines grew older. Under skilled culture Vines in pots may bear moderate crops for two or three years, but we cannot hold out any hope that you can have them bearing “like Peach trees” for an indefinite period. Names of Plants (T. P. Stanmore). — 1, Davallia divaricata ; 2,Xephrodium decompositum var. quinquangulare. We do not undertake to name varieties of Begonia Rex, many of them too closely resembling each other for anyone to do so except by comparison in a very large collection. ( R . F. TTn/jon). — 1, Epacris miniata ; 2, Correa cardinalis ; 3, Acacia Riceana ; 4, Lantaua, spray withered ; 5, NicotianaTabacum var. ; 6, Tradescantia variegata. (E. ilolyneux).— Fuchsia splendens, a pretty Mexican species. (IP. II. A.). — 1, Pilea muscosa, bad specimen ; 2, Fuchsia, species not determinable without flowers ; 3, Sedurn Sieboldi variegata ; 4, Forsythia viridissima ; 5, Euonymus japonicus aureus variegatus ; 6, Sempervivum, probably S. montauum, but specin e l insufficient for identification. COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— MARCH 28th. Market quite still. No alteration. VEGETABLES. 8. d. 8. d. dozen 2 0 to 4 0 Lettuces ... Asparagus, English bundle 12 0 0 0 Mushrooms Asparagus, French bundle 25 0 30 0 Mustard & Cress .. punnet Beans, Kidney ... iuo 2 0 0 0 Onions . Beet, Red . dozen 1 0 2 0 Parsley . doz. bunches Broccoli . bundle 0 9 i 6 Parsnips . . .. Brussels Sprouts. J sieve i 6 2 0 Peas . Cabbage . dozen 0 6 1 0 Potatoes . . .. Capsicums . 100 I 6 2 0 Kidney.... Carrots . . bunch 0 4 0 0 Radishes.... doz. bunches Cauliflowers . . dozen 2 0 3 0 Rhubarb . . . . ...... bundle Celery . bundle i 6 2 0 Salsafy . . bundle Cole worts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Scorzonera Cucumbers . . each 0 4 0 8 Endive . . dozen 1 0 2 0 Shallots .... . It. Fennel . . bunch 0 3 0 0 Spinach .... . bushel Herbs . . bunch 2 0 o Tomatoes .. . lb. Leeks . . bunch 0 8 0 4 Turnips .... . bunch s. 1 1 o 2 3 1 0 6 6 1 0 1 1 1 0 3 1 0 FRUIT. 8. d. s. d. 8 Apples . 2 0to7 0 Grapes . R. 2 per barrel 20 0 40 0 Lemons . case 10 0 0 0 0 each o Cherries . 4 sieve 0 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 12 0 Oranges . 100 6 Currants, Black . i sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 „ Red.. . i sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 1 Figs . . dozen 0 0 0 0 dessert . dozen 1 Filberts . . lb. 0 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English tb. 1 Cobs . . 100 1b. 0 0 0 0 Raspberries . lb. 0 Gooseberries ... . t sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .... oz. 0 d. s. Otol 0 1 2 0 3 2 0 4 0 2 0 e 0 7 0 8 0 0 4 0 0 0 8 0 0 2 3 0 0 0 6 2 2 0 d. S. 0 to 8 0 20 0 0 0 0 0 10 0 0 0 2 0 2 6 2 0 0 6 0 d 6 6 3 6 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 8 d 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 9 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. ENSILAGE. It is said that there is nothing new under the sun, and although securing green crops by preservation in the silo is of very ancient date, yet the practice has recently been resuscitated, and to all appearances will eventually prove not only interesting in its details of management to the amateur, but of large practical benefit to the home farmer, as owners of estates have usually parks or pastures whereon herds of cattle and sheep are main¬ tained both in summer and winter either by grazing or preserved produce. In taking the first glance at this subject it seems more practicable in the hands of those representing the management of the estates of noblemen and gentlemen than by the occupying tenants of farms possessing only limited means at command, especially as many of the silos that are recommended are expensive in formation. We hope to be enabled to place the subject before them in such a manner that both may be enabled to benefit by the system and details of management which we are prepared to practically explain. There is one important point to be re¬ membered, that it is not upon all farms that the system under notice is required. For instance, it will no doubt be less required on those farms where no dairy cows are maintained ; on the other hand, it is especially adapted for many of those fine grazing farms in the midland and western counties, many of which possess but little or no arable land in connection with the holding, in con¬ sequence of which they are unable to procure root crops for feeding during the winter and early spring months. In the latter case there can be no doubt that ensilage gives a better material for a butter dairy than anything which can be obtained without purchase. In fact, in many dairies the difficulty of providing, on the purely pasture farms, of food best adapted for the production of either good milk or butter is so great and so expensive that it almost necessitated the damaging system of letting the cows go dry for several months in the winter and early spring. This is a serious evil, detrimental to the welfare, safety, and condition of the cows, and also to profitable management. March 29, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 269 After these prefatory remarks we will proceed to give the best information upon our subject, which we have obtained from the best sources at home and abroad duriug the past two years in which it has been tried by experiments. The results attained will not yet settle the question entirely as to the best mode of proceeding, but will go far to induce some of the most intelligent and persevering farmers and others to improve as much as possible upon our present knowledge of the subject. Ensilage may well be described as the preservation of various kinds of green fodder, such as grass of pastures, water meadows, and the produce also of the arable land, like Clover, Lucerne, Rye Grass, aftermath, Maize, and other forage plants iu a state by which they will contain nearly the same properties and feeding value as when brought fresh from the field in a green state in the summer and autumn months. We will take first for consideration the making of the silo, which is, in fact, a pit underground, or a waterproof tank either partly or wholly above ground. It is pro¬ bable that the best constructed silos upon the most durable prin¬ ciple will be most desirable for those who can afford the cost and necessary expenditure ; because, when properly constructed, there is no reason why they should not last for many years with but small repairs. As regards material, we think the best and most durable, as well as reasonable in first cost, will be concrete from 12 to 18 inches in thickness for the sides, ends, and floor, but faced inside with cement, in order to offer a smooth surface to the sub¬ stances buried, and at the same time insuring the well being watertight either from within or from without. The soil in which the silo may be constructed should be quite dry, or otherwise drained to prevent injury and decay to the walls on the outside Fig. 67.— Dutcu Barn and Silo. A, Barn ; B, Silo ; C, D, Concrete. Opinions still differ as to the most convenient width, depth, and length o£ the pit or tank, whether built under the ground level or above it. We think the best size will be found to be about 12 feet wide and 12 feet deep, but the length of the tank must be con¬ sidered as a question of the quantity of fodder to be buried. In case of large quantities, then convenience dictates that there 6'nould be divisions, if continued for any considerable distance, say 15 or 20 feet for them ; each tank would then be 15 feet long, 12 feet wide, and 12 deep, placed in continuation end for end, or at a reasonable distance apart side by side, with room for cartage between them. The sides of the tank it is recommended should be constructed with a slight slope outwards, or “ batter ” as it is called, of about half an inch in the foot, so that the tank may be rather widest at the top. The object of this is to obtain compactness in the mass of ensilage and the entire exclusion of air ; and as the fodder sinks the sloping sides will allow the weights at top to sink also and assist in rendering the mass more solid by giving more effect to the pressure used at the top of whatever materials it may be formed. These may consist of 2-inch wooden planks and blocks of concrete not over 75 lbs. each, or earth laid thereon. We prefer the latter, especially as the covering to the silo may well be covered like a Dutch barn with corrugated iron roof, such as recommended by Pearson & Company of Glasgow, and repre¬ sented in the annexed figure. So that after filling the silo with the green forage the space above, 15 feet up to the eaves may be occupied with hay or corn at harvest time ; and when the silo is covered with earth the horses would in that case find a footing for drawing in the loaded carts. We must further state that as green fodder yields a certain amount of liquid juice in the silo, the floor should be made with a slight incline towards one end, and a small well-hole will be useful to hold the liquor which escapes from the ensilage at the lowest end. This may be emptied first by reaching in and removing the mass, and may be used as a nutritious liquor, mixed or diluted with water, for the dairy cows. The advantage of not making the silos larger than the cattle require, and of which they can consume the contents within a few days or a week, is correct management, because the ensilage would generally become mouldy and distasteful if not used within the time named. This fact must therefore decide the best size for the silo. We will now refer to the practice of ancient date — namely, digging a pit in dry soil, such as sand without stones, firm clay, or chalk, for storing com, &c., in Asia. This plan is common amongst the small or tenant farmers of the interior of America for storage of green fodder and vegetables, such as Cabbages. The plan is to dig and excavate the soil 8 feet wide, 8 feet deep, and of proportionate length, the ensilage to be well trodden down but not cut into chaff— except in the case of Maize with coarse stalks — whether it is composed of coarse prairie grass, Clover, Rye, &c. ; but before covering with earth, fern or straw is laid over the ensilage. The earth may then be made up in a conical form, which answers the double purpose of weighting and com¬ pressing the mass and shedding the water from the silos. In this way, also, Potatoes, Mangold, Carrots, and other roots are stored during the winter, and it answers well in a climate where the frost is often much more intense than in England. Cabbages are placed in layers with their roots upwards, and then covered with less earth than is required for Potatoes. An American farmer tells us that the Cabbages, especially the best Drumhead Savoys, keep very sweet and perfect for three or four months. We name these latter plans for the advantage of those who cannot afford the expensive silos now becoming fashionable amongst the highest and wealthy class of farmers and dairymen. (To be continued.) WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Horse Labour. — Full employment for the horses has been the rule of late, and if the weather continues fine the frosty mornings, which had hindered the plough for a time, will probably have the effect of making the land work more easily and facilitate the seed¬ ing of various crops. Although we lost much time throughout the winter and much land could not be sown in due season with Wheat, yet during this month the seed has gone in well, because the ground was generally damp, which is favourable for Wheat-sowing at any time if the seed can be properly buried and the land worked off in good form. It sometimes happens when the winter has been favour¬ able that the month of March is unpropitious, and in our farm memorandums for the year 1862 we note that the teams of horses only did three days’ work on the land during that month. There is no doubt that in case the last part of this month proves dry the prospect of the Wheat crop will improve. We continue sowing White Victoria Oats, the sample being good and weighing over 45 tbs. per bushel. The Early Dun Peas, also, are now being sown in good season. The land for Potatoes is now being prepared, so that planting of the second early varieties may be com¬ menced, the early sorts having been put in the beginning of March. From this time the Magnum Bonum will be the sort to plant upon all dry and friable loamy soils, after that the Champion. Both of these sorts produce much haulm and foliage when highly manured. We must therefore call attention to an excellent article on the sub¬ ject of manuring in this Journal March 16th. It indicates a new departure in manuring for second early and late varieties as regards manuring, illustrating the advantages of the use of kainit or the German potash salts and superphosphate, only 2 cwt. per acre of each of these manures being required to produce full crops of excellent quality ; indeed, much better than when 2 cwt. of nitrate of soda or guano had been added. It is not stated the distance between the rows at which the sets were planted. Therefore we assume that the sets may be put closer than we stated as our practice last w eek — ■ namely, 36 inches, and 18 inches in the lines. We infer, also, that nearly all sorts which yield but little foliage, but the early varieties in particular, will bear a full dressing, such as we recommend through our own experience — viz., 2 cwt. of kainit and 3 or 4 cwt. of the best Peruvian guano mixed per acre. As we are now drawing near to the time for drilling Mangold seed, we recommend the early season as the best, especially for the slow- growing sorts like the Golden Tankard, which contains the greatest feeding value of any sort grown for cattle-feeding. It is, however, objected that the roots do not come so large nor produce such heavy weights per acre as the Yellow Globe and Long Red, but this is to be improved upon by leaving the plants nearer together in the rows and early sowing. It is even recommended by some growers as a good plan to grow alternate lines of Long Red and Golden Tankard. But in alternate culture we should prefer to grow Golden Tankard and Red Intermediate Carrot in alternate rows. Live Stock. — Sheep, especially ewes and lambs, have improved of late ; both mutton and lamb are selling at high prices, and will reward the farmer for good and careful management. Upon grazing land, and especially the vale farms whereon the lambs are usually sold at lightweights, they may now with probable advantage beheld on and made up to the weight of 9 or 10 stones of 8 lbs., and pay better than by selling them as usual at 10 lbs. or 12 lbs. per quarter. Bullocks of all ages, from two years and over, will now pay well for breeding JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 270 [ March 29, 1883. as well as feeding. Those which have been held on for two years of age will not only pay well for feeding under cover in consequence of their growing as well as fattening, but they attain the weights re¬ quired by the butchers, about 90 or 100 stones, at a period when cattle are not usually obtainable from the grazing districts of the midland or western counties. We have now strong hope that we may have a dry and favourable summer after a cycle of eight wet seasons, such a cycle as we have never known before during the past sixty years. Still farmers may have a care in feeding the grass lands with sheep, either in the irrigated meadows or low-lying strong land pastures, for even after a dry summer the autumn rains fre¬ quently fall heavy and render the pastures unsafe, for the sheep will take in the fluke, and should seldom be trusted on such pastures after midsummer. SOIL-EXHAUSTION— STRONG-GROWING POTATOES. These is one thing about disease-resisting Potatoes that must be apparent to all — they are all exceedingly strong growers, and are possessed of capital foraging powers, so much so that they are certain to utilise every particle of available plant-food that is within their reach. This foraging power has been hitherto looked on by the majority of farmers as an evil, for experience has proved that after a heavy crop of roots and tops ordinary soil with ordinary treatment will give inferior crops of corn. But is this necessarily the case ? Are such strong-growing Potatoes as Champion and Magnum Bonum exhausters of the soil, robbers and dissipators of plant-food ? Nine out of every ten farmers would answer — “Yes,” but undoubtedly the nine would be wrong, as we hope to be able to show. That strong-growing Potatoes yield the best crops, extirpate weeds, and by reason of their strong roots leave the soil finely pulverised, is recognised and placed to their credit. But we submit that these acknowledged good points do not embrace all the good points of strong-growing Potatoes. One other ought to be added — they are conservers of plant-food. Instead of robbing and dissipating, they organise, store up, and save what under ordinary conditions would be lost. That much more is removed from the land in a heavy crop than in a small one is evident and requires no proof. That ten tons of Champions or Magnums will take twice as much potash, phosphoric acid, and nitrogen from the soil as will five tons of Regents or Paterson’s Victorias will be admitted. In this sense Magnum Bonum will certainly rob the soil, and, by so much, leave it poorer. But poverty so caused is not grudged, for the crop affords the means for restoring the fertility. None care to husband the soil’s resources by lessening the crop. But there is the useless portion — the tops. If Magnum Bonums yield twice the weight of tubers that Regents or Victorias do, they give three times as much tops. Not only so, but these tops go on growing and taking from the soil weeks and even months after the earlier kinds have either ripened off or decayed because of disease. After this happens the land is in the condition of bare fallow. Indeed, we ought to qualify that statement by saying it is much more subject to loss, for while bare fallow is not manured, green fallow is, and as weakly-growing Potatoes are poor foragers they leave much manure unused. Now under such conditions there is much waste of the most valuable part of the manure. Let us glance at what happens on bare fallow. It gains nearly 7 fibs, of nitrogen from the rain that falls on it ; but the same rain washes out fully 40 lbs., which is lost. On cropped land this loss is very much less, because the nitrates are utilised a9 fast as they are formed. In the case of crops early ripe or early removed there is always a heavy autumn and winter loss, because it is found that nitrates are most rapidly formed in autumn. Now, nitrogen as found in organised matter, or even as ammonia, is not subject to this loss — it is only when changed to nitrate that the loss occurs. This change is always proceeding, but more rapidly in warm than in cold soil. Hence the change is most rapid after midsummer. Now this loss is a serious matter. Nitrogen is worth, and costs in the market, £100 a ton. How are we to save it? The old way was to grow a late crop of some rapid-growing plant and to plough it in. This was called green manuring. It is a very good plan too ; and if farmers and gardeners would sow early-cleared land with this end in view they would certainly save money, for a penny saved is quite as good as a penny gained, and a pound of nitrogen so saved will do away with the necessity of buying that pound. The loss of nitrogen is least on pasture land, and next on land occupied with Mangolds and Turnips, simply because these go on using up the nitrates formed late. No exact experiments that we know of have been conducted to show what is the autumn and winter loss of nitrates after a crop of Magnum Bonum compared with that after one of Regents or other early sort. A good guide is afforded by the crop that follows. It is always, when nothing is done to balance the fertility, small — so small that we cannot be wrong in concluding that the strong-growing shaws are more con¬ servative of nitrogen than even Mangolds or Turnips. In other words, nothing will so save from loss valuable manure as will a crop of strong-growing Potatoes. But, of course, this will avail us nothing if we do not utilise this nitrogen. If the shaws are carted off the field and heaped up anywhere out of the way for ever, as is by far too common a practice, or burnt, as is certain almost to be the other course adopted, we, of course, get rid of this saved material, and decidedly in such a case the land is robbed and the plant-food dissipated. But this is a terrible, a ruinous mistake. What would we think of the man who, having a great crop of straw, burnt or tumbled it into a hole out of his way ? We should think him mad. But when it is done in the case of Potato haulm nobody seems to think it wrong. Properly treated big crops of shaws may be utilised as the most profitable of green manurings, the most effectual savers of slippery nitrates. The haulm of Champion and Magnum Bonum Potatoes cannot be ploughed in as can a thick sward of Rape or Clover. They can, however, be put up with ordinary manure fermented, rotted, and then applied to the land. We could name one northern farmer who thus uses his Potato haulm with much benefit to his purse. He used to dress his corn land in spring with superphosphate, potash salts, and sulphate of ammonia. This gave him first-class crops on very poor soil. First-class crops meant much straw, much straw meant many cattle, and many cattle meant much manure. This farmyard manure was liberally applied to the Potato and Turnip crops. But since he began to grow these strong-growing Potatoes he has partly reversed this order of manuring. A half manuring of ordinary manure is now given to Potatoes and Turnips, and in addition, the former are treated to a mixture of potash salts and phosphates, the Turnips to phosphates only. But the Potato tops are made up into large heaps as soon as the crop is lifted, with as much long manure as makes the heap heat moderately, and as much urine from the tanks as makes it moist. A month or two afterwards this is cut into thin slices with a hay knife, driven out and spread in frosty weather, and ploughed in as soon after as possible on his corn land. Oats follow Potatoes ; Barley, Turnips. By this means he finds that though he sells more off the farm in the form of Potatoes, corn, and cattle, he gives no more stableyard manure than formerly, buys a third less sulphate of ammonia, and yet he has better crops than before. And why ? Simply because he has learned to save what others waste ; and that, so far from strong-growing crops being wasters of plant-food, they are savers. We intended saying something in this paper on the special wants of special crops and the peculiarities of different soils ; but we fear the editorial scissors, and stop. — S. H. [We will make room for matter of the kind indicated.] METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 33' 40" N.; Long. 0° 8 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. date. 9 A.M. IN THE Day. 1883. £> cq C5^h fleo O) 4) > Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. oti • . <33 -4-3 p.— O = •£ P Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. 3 ci P3 March. 43 S3 a1-1 1-4 4-» c3 Dry. Wet. ojCCh fH Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Snn. 18 Inches. 29.622 deg. 36.8 deg. 33.2 S.W. deg. 37.0 deg 43.0 deg. 30.2 deg 65.4 deg. 26.3 In. Mon. 19 29.779 36.8 35.4 N.E. 37.1 43.4 33.6 63.3 31.1 0.292 Tues. £0 29.670 39.4 38.2 S. 38.1 41.2 36.4 46.7 37.2 — Wed. 21 29.637 38.8 36.9 E. 38.3 42.3 36.8 58 8 36.4 — Thurs. 22 30.115 31.4 31.0 N.E. 38.1 37.3 29.5 85.3 £9.6 — Friday 23 Satur. 24 30.208 32.8 30.6 N.E. 37.0 41.1 27.2 87.3 23.8 — 30.011 30.7 29.3 N.W. 36.8 46.2 22.4 88.4 19.3 0.019 29.860 35.2 33.5 37.5 42.1 30.9 70.7 29.1 0.311 REMARKS. 18th.— Fair and dry, but not very bright. 19th. — Fine until noon, afterwards rain. 20th.— Fair, but overcast. 21st. — Dry, dull, and cold ; moonlight night. 22nd.— Slight sun in early morning; bright cold day, with strong N.E. wind. 23rd.— Fine, -with very bright sunshine and cold wind. 24th. — Fine and bright, showers of sleet in evening. The temperature continues exceptionally low. The average for the past three weeks is lower than the average for the coldest part of January, and the minimum on Saturday (22'4°) is the coldest this year. The barometer was, how¬ ever, falling rapidly on Saturday evening. — G. J. SYMONS. April 5, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 271 W*ropos of bleeding, I have often thought of having a hot iron at hand and searing the cuts. I have seen but never tried some French sort of gum for this purpose. Is such a substance of any use ? Believing that late pruning suits me best, and being anxious to lessen the chances of loss by bleeding as much as possible, I have for several seasons done much of my pruning in autumn. I have gone over all my plants, selecting on each from three to eight shoots as the best to make a head for next year’s blooms, all the rest I have pruned away. By this plan I save many bleeding points, supposing the trees have made some growth in the spring, and so lessen the fears about it, and I am also able to get my final pruning completed far more rapidly than I otherwise could. I confess, too, that I do not always tie myself down to the dictum of pruning down to a bud pointing outwards. Sometimes I fancy a shoot pointing inwards may suit the appearance of a plant better, and I prune accordingly. I join Mr. Moorman in saying that I have for several years used the secateur for pruning to the great advantage of my own hands, and I fancy without any detriment to the plants, and I agree with him the more I use it the more I like it. — Y. B. A. Z. A favourable change occurred in the weather in the south of England on the BOth ult., when the frost winds that have done so much damage to vegetation ceased and a welcome shower fell. Since then there have been several days of spring¬ like weather, and the buds of Horse Chestnut and other trees have been suddenly awakened into life. Except a few very early- flowering Pears, the blossom buds of orchard fruit trees do not appear to have sustained any injury. PRUNING ROSES. Once when chatting with one of your most constant and talented contributors on this subject he remarked, “If I cou’d I would prune in autumn.” Well, the difficulty lies in the words “if I could.” Certainly in the greater part of this country autumn pruning would be fatal, but I can well understand that if there were no frost it would be the correct thing. We must, however, if in the tailoring line, “ cut our coat according to the cloth,” and I feel quite certain we must, if Rose-lovers, prune them according to our localities. It may do well, as “A. C.” says, to prune early at Reigate ; but then Reigate has a different temperature to our Wilt¬ shire downs. Neither do I think that the treatment that would be successful in the one would equally suit the other. To decide the knotty point a given number of similar Roses should bo treated on each plan, and this for several seasons. These Roses should in all other respects be treated similarly, then a fair balance might be struck ; but it is impossible to decide the point on a single season, which might have been exceptionally favourable to those pruned early or vice versa. Here in Wiltshire I have frequently seen the blooms that opened early blotched in a peculiar manner on the outer petals ; and a well-known nurseryman, who was judging at our local exhibition, - We are informed that the St. Peteesburgh Inter¬ national Horticultural Exhibition, announced to be held this year in May, is postponed until 1884, all the arrangements remaining the same. It is stated that this postponement has been rendered necessary by the approaching coronation of the Emperor and Empress. - Mr. S. Taylor, writing in reply to “ Crux ” relative to Cocoa-nut Fibre and Woodlice, says “ I use the refuse extensively for plunging Pines and other plants in, and scarcely ever see an insect, and having used it for nearly four years in the same houses I can venture to say it does not harbour woodlice. We have another house in which we use leaves for plunging plants in, and the woodlice breed by the thousand in them ; and unless decayed leaves are wanted for soil I should advise your correspondent to substitute the fibre instead of leaves or manure. Nearly all kinds of cuttings strike readily in it.” - The lease of the premises, 6, Bankside, London, S.E., April 5, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 279 where Messrs. J. Jones & Sons, hot-water engineers, have carried on business for upwards of forty years having expired, they have secured more central and convenient premises at 42, Farringdon Street, E.C., this being the present address of the firm, and where their business will in future be conducted. - The Exhibition of the Aberdeen Royal Horticul¬ tural Society for the present year will be held on July 19th and September 14th and 15th, over 170 classes being provided for each Show. The prizes are mostly of moderate amount, silver medals being, however, offered in addition. - Mr. P. H. Barber, writing in answer to a correspondent who sought information about MOSS litter, states there are several kinds — viz., those sold by the German Moss Litter Co., the Lightening Moss Litter Co., and Yersmann’s Moss Litter Co. The last he thinks perhaps is the best. Being a dark colour it does not show the dirt, but of course it is there just the same, and in consequence gets very foul ; at the same time it is very cold and clammy in winter and hot in summer. Being mossy stuff it absorbs the moisture. The address of the Yersmann’s Moss Litter Co. is G3, Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C. - The Nuneaton Floral and Horticultural Society will hold an Exhibition of plants, flowers, fruits, and vegetables in the cricket field, Nuneaton, on Thursday, July 12th of the present year, when numerous prizes will be offered. - We regret to announce that Mr. George Smith of the Tollington Nursery, Hornsey Road, died on the 26th ult. at the age of seventy-one. He was a well-known florist, and has succeeded in raising many handsome varieties of popular plants, especially amongst Zonal Pelargoniums and Fuchsias. - The “ Lily of the Valley : All About It, and How to Grow It,” is the somewhat pretentious title of a very small pamphlet of thirty-two widely printed pages (W. Roberts, 170, Strand). The matter on raising, sorting, and forcing single crowns is that which is usually practised ; but the writer has something to learn on the process of growing and forcing clumps, or he would not denounce it. The practice, he says, “ probably has one or two good points — certainly not more, as the clumps cause a waste of space, inasmuch as rarely 50 per cent, of them flower. Therefore, for all practical purposes forcing in ‘ clumps ’ is not to be recommended.” We wonder what one of our correspondents, who grows six dozen spikes from a clump in an 8-inch pot, thinks of this teaching ! It is true there are spikes and spikes, but some that our correspondent has sent us are equal to any we have seen from imported clumps, and similar to the fine examples grown by Messrs. Hawkins & Bennett of Twickenham. - At a meeting of the promoters of the grand National Dahlia Show, held on March 13th, it was determined to accept the liberal offer which had been made by the Crystal Palace Company in reference to the Show of 1883 ; and on the occasion of the Autumnal Fruit Show of the present year (August 31st and following day), to hold an exhibition of Dahlias at the Palace on a scale at least equal to that of 1882. The Crystal Palace Com¬ pany offers to provide, as before, a sum of £50 towards the prize fund if the growers and admirers of the Dahlia will subscribe a like sum for the same object ; and as there are certain additional and unavoidable expenses it is imperative that the subscription list should exceed this amount. Subscriptions should be for¬ warded to Mr. Thomas Moore, Hon. Secretary and Treasurer, Botanic Garden, Chelsea, London, S.W., from whom, also, further particulars can be obtained. - A Parisian correspondent writes : — “ To the note of ‘ Et- Csetera ’ in your issue of March 15 th I might perhaps add that Broccolis differ from Cauliflowers not only by their ‘ degree in hardiness ’ but even by their appearance — that is, the foliage is rather stiff and not so broad. It nearly resembles, so to speak, the paper foliage plants so well made in Paris, and has not the elegantly recurved and undulated lines of Cauliflowers, especially some broad-leaved strains. Besides, - there is also a question of taste, and Broccolis have on the continent the re¬ putation of being much less delicate in flavour than Cauliflowers. Broccoli is in its flesh somewhat granulated and strong-scented, Cauliflower is melting and creamy. But this is a matter of taste.” - The same correspondent observes : — “ In the same issue I see an answer to ‘ J. E. 0.’ about ornamental Grasses. I take this opportunity of highly recommending the Coix genus, and espe¬ cially Coix lachryma (Job’s Tears) and C. kxaltata. They are very elegant in a border or a conservatory when in pots, and very effective when cut to mix with flowers in vases. The plants have an average height of 12 to 18 inches, and the pearl-coloured fruits, pendulous and glittering, are very attractive. They are also much in request for chaplets and necklaces. They are most easily culti¬ vated, being hardy in your climate. Sow the seed in hotbeds or on a sunny position out of doors, and plant out at the beginning of May.” - Mr. Chas. Roberts, Highfield Hall Gardens, near Leek, Staffordshire, writes : — “ A few notes illustrative of the excep¬ tional severity of the weather during the past month as observed here may have some interest. The cold set in on the 3rd of March and continued until the 29th. During the whole of that period the temperature in the shade has never risen higher than 43°, and but two nights in the month which the thermometer has not fallen below the freezing point. The lowest registered was 22° on Saturday morning, March 10th, and eight nights in the week we have registered 10° and 12°, and on twelve days snow has fallen more or less. Almost everything in the way of green vegetables in the kitchen garden is completely destroyed.” - The charming little denizen of the Mexican hills, PlN- guicula CAUDATA, is (states the Irish Farmers' Gazette ) “now flowering in the College Botanic Garden. It is indeed a verit¬ able gem in its way. Fancy a compact and pretty Echeveria- like rosette of pale green leaves not larger than a florin, from the centre of which rises an elegant tapering scape some 6 or 7 inches high, curving slightly at top, and crowned with a flower as large and not unlike in form that of Viola pedata, and of a lovely magenta tint, and the reader will have a good idea of this lowly but truly lovely Butterwort.” - Mr. Alfred Langley, late foreman in The Gardens, Acacia, Rawdon, near Leeds, has been appointed head gardener at Bedstone Court, the Shropshire residence of the Dowager Lady Ripley. - It has been arranged that an Exhibition of spring flowers shall be held in the Yestry Hall, Turnham Green, on Thursday, April 19th, similar in character to the very successful Exhibition which took place in the Vestry Hall in 1880 in aid of the funds of the West London Hospital. A Committee has been formed for the purpose of carrying out this undertaking, and it is intended that any profits arising shall be devoted to the funds of the Chiswick, Turnham Green, and District Horticultural Society. It is not the intention of the Committee to offer any money prizes on this occasion, but honorary awards and certificates of merit will be given to objects specially deserving. Contributions for exhibition are solicited, and space will be allotted on application to the Secretary on or before Tuesday, April 17th. The Committee announce that the most liberal support is already promised from the gardens of the Baroness de Rothschild, C. Bown, Esq., 280 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [April 5, 1888. B. Hardy, Esq., H. Pearks, Esq., J. R. Starling Esq., Messrs. Fromow & Sons, the Royal Horticultural Society, Sec. Visitors to the Show will receive tickets for promenade in the Royal Horti¬ cultural Society’s gardens. The Exhibition of the Chiswick and Turnham Green Horticultural Society will be held in the Chiswick Gardens on Saturday, July 7th ; the Evening Fete taking place on July 19th. - A CONFERENCE OF CHRYSANTHEMUM GROWERS, nomi¬ nated by the Committee of the Kingston-on-Thames Chrysan¬ themum Society, was held on Friday evening last. All the leading varieties were under notice, and some rather important decisions were arrived at. These the Secretary of the meeting, Mr. Moorman, was instructed to tabulate and submit to a future meeting for review and ratification, after which they will be published. The list of incurved varieties named in the recent election was somewhat reduced. Several so-called distinct varieties were declared to be either synonymous or so closely resembling others as to practically amount to the same thing ; many varieties that have been recorded as too much alike were determined to be distinct ; some names were con¬ sidered fanciful, and were not recognised. In the case of synonymous varieties the name to be adopted was indicated, and the origin and date of introduction of many varieties were recorded. As an instance of the revised nomenclature, Refulgence (true) and Inner Temple were considered distinct, and the latter was recommended to be regarded as a synonym of Arigena. This is adduced as an example of the work in hand and which will when completed probably result in the compi¬ lation of a trustworthy and instructive catalogue that will be useful to all cultivators of this increasingly popular autumn flower. As much labour is necessarily involved in tracing the origin of the varieties, some time must elapse before the work suggested can be completed. BULBS UNDER TREES. As Mr. Richardson has drawn your readers’ attention to the above subject, a few remarks as to how anyone having trees on lawns may have the ground beneath them gay all spring may not be out of place. On the lawn here we have trees of Purple Beech, Chest¬ nut, Elm, See., under which we planted three years ago last autumn quantities of Snowdrops, Crocuses, Daffodils, &c., in clumps, the soil being well stirred and enriched with manure and leaf soil, and the turf placed again over the bulbs. They flowered well the first season, but have been better each season since, the flowers being quite as fine as those from the newly imported bulbs, and the leaves considerably larger. I have frequent inquiries as to how we get them to live, as most people who have tried them on grass lose them in two or three years. Now the secret is in allow¬ ing the foliage to be thoroughly ripened and to die before mowing the grass under the trees where bulbs are so planted, as cutting off the foliage causes the bulbs to dwindle and die in a few seasons. As soon as the foliage has appeared above ground in spring we give frequent waterings of weak liquid manure, as the soil about the roots of large trees is very poor. I have not yet tried Hyacinths under similar conditions, but I intend doing so. — Wm, Plant, Wood Ilayes Hall. CARDIFF CASTLE CUCUMBER. I am very pleased indeed to hear such flattering accounts of this Cucumber from all quarters. Before I thought of offering it to the public I thoroughly tested its merits, and I was so convinced of its many good qualities that I told the Messrs. Ireland and Thomson, nurserymen and seedsmen, Edinburgh (the first dis¬ tributors of it), that I would prefix my name to it as a kind of guarantee that it possessed all the good qualities that I stated in my description of it. After repeated trials I told them that I considered it to be one of the best varieties in cultivation, either for summer or winter work — an assertion which I am glad to say has been verified over and over again by many persons who have grown it. In answer to your correspondent “ J. L.,” I can assure him and others that the Messrs. Carter & Co. have the true stock of this Cucumber. They purchased all the seed I could save of it last year ; but it is quite possible that others may have saved seed from the original stock sent out by the Messrs. Ireland and Thomson, and retained my name prefixed to it as sent out at. first. Large seed firms have got into the habit of late of naming varieties of vegetables after themselves, ignoring the raiser’s name alto¬ gether. This I venture to say is wrong. It is confusing and misleading to purchasers, as has been aptly pointed out by “ J. L.’s ” note of last week.— A. Pettigrew, Cardiff Castle. In reply to the inquiry of your correspondent “ J. L.,” on page 256, relative to the above Cucumber and Carter’s Cardiff Castle Cucumber, whether “distinct or identical,” I, as advertising it under the name of Pettigrew’s Cardiff Castle Cucumber, retained the name of the raiser. But it is not unusual now-a-days for firms to attach their names to anything that is new and good. This may be excusable when they are the original distributors, but when once an article is in commerce and largely grown for twelve months, some confusion is created if another name is prefixed or substituted for that of the raiser. As to the great value of the variety for market purposes there can be no doubt. I have grown a house exclusively of it for four years, originally from cuttings kindly supplied me by my friend Mr. Pettigrew for trial, but of course I could not distribute it until it had been placed one year in commerce. — Ralph Crossling, Penarth Nurseries. NOTES ON CERTIFICATED ROSES. A correspondent under the nom de plume of “ A Young Rosarian,” writing your initial article on “ Certificated Roses” as far back as page 127 of our Rose Journal, asks to be initiated into the mysteries of Rose culture. Now your readers will already have formed their opinion as to whether the writer has or has not passed that rudimentary stage his humility credits him with. I am only surprised that the many interesting subjects started in his article have not been noticed, and can only account for the unusual fact by the unusually depressing weather indisposing your readers from making any exertion indoors or outdoors unless absolutely necessary. It was only last Saturday that the snow disappeared, after lying for a considerable period in our west midlands. I regret I have only time to reply briefly to “ Young Rosarian’s ” question about H.P. Dr. Darwin. This Rose, in my opinion, is decidedly the best sent out in 1879. H.P. Abel Carriere runs too much to wood, and does not flower with me. The more I grow Charles Darwin the more I like the Rose ; but, like that old dark favourite Prince Camille de Rohan, it will not thrive where others of a similar habit do well. Charles Darwin is one of the earliest as well as the latest Roses to bloom, and is alike good as an exhibition and garden Rose. I remember George Paul, its raiser, telling me the year he sent it out that he thought it would burn less than any of the dark Roses, and my experience quite bears out the character foretold of it in this important respect. I should, however, mention that Charles Darwin, like most very early-flowering Roses, is very liable to mildew. I will ask to continue the subject on another occasion. — Herefordshire Incumbent. [A “Young Rosarian” is undoubtedly what his pseudonym implies, and he is earnestly desirous of information from experi¬ enced cultivators.] CLIMBERS OR ROOF-COVERING PLANTS. II All D E N BE R G I A COMPTONIANA. For many years this plant was generally known as Kennedya Comptoniana ; in some gardens or nurseries it still bears the same designation ; occasionally, too, it may be seen under the generic title Glycine, but that given above is the one now adopted by most botanists, and is gradually supplanting the others. It matters little, however, in a horticultural point of view what name a plant bears. “A Rose by any other name would smell as sweet ” is a truism which applies to this as well as to many others that possess sufficient merit to insure them a permanent place in gardens. When trained to the roof of a greenhouse or conservatory, and bearing its long pendulous dense racemes of brilliant blue flowers, the beauty of this charming Leguminous plant can be fully appre¬ ciated, especially if it be associated with climbers bearing lighter or distinctly coloured flowers, as the contrast shows it to better advantage. If planted in a border the soil must be specially pre¬ pared, a compost of peat, light turfy loam, and sand being suitable, providing good drainage, whether it be grown in a pot or border, as, like many of its relatives, it cannot endure stagnant moisture about the roots. Some care, too, is needed to keep the plant free JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. April 5, 1883. from insects, particularly mealy bug, which has a great liking for it. Little pruning is requisite, except to remove the old bare or weakly shoots. The flowers, though small, are borne in such dense racemes that their size individually is scarcely noticeable. The petals, keel, and standard are bright rich blue, the last-mentioned portion of the flower having a ring of white at the base, which renders by contrast the blue colour even more intense. The racemes vary from 4 to G or 8 inches long, but they do not often reach the largest size, except in old established plants, and youDg specimens are sometimes rather shy in flowering. Hardenbergia Comptoniana is a native of Australia, and was introduced to this country early in the present century. The woodcut (fig. 69) represents a spray from an established plant, and well shows the chief characters both of flowers and foliage. NOTES FROM NORTH DURHAM. The month of March came in like the proverbial lamb, but ODly retained its lamb-like character for a few days. On the 5th we had in this district one of the heaviest gales and most severe snowstorms of modern times ; indeed, that much-talked-of, but seldom seen, authority, “ the oldest inhabitant ” of our local fishing villages and ports, did not remember having seen such Fig. 69. - -Hardexbeiigia Comptoxiana. weather in March. The snow drifted to such a depth that roads were rendered impassable, and remained so for some days in spite of the efforts of the local Highway Board. Every night we had from 8° to 20° of frost, and this continued until the 17th inst., when the snow ceased falling and the frost became less intense, though by no means altogether gone. The bright sunny days rapidly melted the mass of snow, except where it was drifted, and from where I write I can still see huge wreaths of snow lying on the headlands behind the hedges. After the snow went the frost returned again in all its “ unmitigated barbarity,” and the result has been a complete massacre of the innocent-. To use a localism, everything has “ gone by the board.” Since the 20th I have been confined to the house, and am only now able to look out of the window ; but that is quite sufficient to justify me in believing all the woeful tales that have been daily brought in. Thousands of Wallflowers, or rather the skeletons of what were once Wall¬ flowers, are seen in all directions. Evergreens look as if they had been singed by fire, particularly the common Laurel and Ivy ; Laurustinus that were in bloom a month ago are now much injured. The tender bloom buds of Ribes are seriously damaged, and will not be so good as usual. Quantities of Myosotis have died, and even Pansies and Daisies have not escaped scot 282 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ April 5, 1S83. free. How fruit and kitchen gardens have stood the shock I have no idea. Altogether it has been one of the most disastrous months ever seen in this neighbourhood, and has for slain and wounded no doubt put up the “best on record.” The only con¬ solation we have is that the last day of it is a most delightful spring day. That usually correct correspondent, “ Single-handed,” seems to me to have gone a little astray in his otherwise able article on “ Books and Reading ” in the price of some of the books he mentions. He speaks of Williams’ “ Orchids,” Hogg’s “ Fruit,” and Burbidge’s “ Cultivated Plants ” as if they were all pamph¬ lets or shilling manuals. A book-list at hand quotes Burbidge at 15s., Hogg I think is half a guinea, and Barron is the same price ; in fact, Taylor is the only shilling “ manual ” in the list mentioned by your correspondent. Nothing could be more disappointing to a young man than to find, after having been led to believe that he could buy Burbidge’s “ Cultivated Plants ” for a “ shilling or so,” that he would have to pay more than a week’s wages for it, for it really costs more than the amount that some young gardeners are receiving per week. Instead of a central library, which is a very good idea, I would suggest that gardeners could do themselves and each other much more good by forming a general benefit society. With a centre, say, in London, and branches throughout the country, which could, I am sure, be formed and worked quite as successfully by gardeners as unions are by engineers or elementary teachers. Few gardeners pass through life without being at some time or other “laid up ” with sickness or out of place through no fault of their own ; and many of them never have an opportunity of saving as much money as will keep them comfortable in their old age. All this sort of thing might be provided for. Then every local lodge or branch of the society might establish its own library at its meeting-room. I only throw out these remarks as a suggestion, someone may think them worthy of consideration ; at all events the subject itself is. Anent ventilation, it may interest your readers generally, and Mr. Taylor particularly, to know that an amateur in Sunderland is busily engaged perfecting an automatic ventilator, and is very sanguine of success. I cannot give any details, I only give the fact that he is doing so. He is a practical engineer and an enthu¬ siastic gardener. I hope by-and-by to be able to say more about it. — Petek Ferguson. CULTURE OF THE KALOSANTIIES. The Kalosanthes is a most useful sweet-scented summer¬ blooming plant. It may be grown into large specimens for exhibition, or in 48 or 32-size pots for the decoration of the con¬ servatory. The cuttings should be taken now and inserted singly in small GO-pots ; place them in an intermediate tempera¬ ture, when they will soon root. Transfer them into larger pots, employing a compost of two parts turfy loam, one of peat, and one of leaf soil, with a good sprinkling of silver sand to keep the soil open. As the season advances place them in a cold frame or pit, and close early to encourage free growth. Stop them twice during the season to make them bushy. In the autumn place them in a light airy house and gradually withhold water, which will cause them to form flower buds. If extra large plants are required do not let them bloom, but pinch the points out and shift into larger pots. Whilst the flowrer buds are opening ventilate freely, which will improve the colour. Some growers place their exhibition plants in the open air whilst the flowers are opening ; but they are protected from wind and wet, and shaded from bright sun. — A. Y. HISTORICAL JOTTINGS ON VEGETABLES.— No. 3. RHUBARB AND SEAKALE. In the earlier months of the year, when tarts and puddings cannot be made from fresh fruit, there is a steady demand for the stalks of Rhubarb, which even those who are somewhat critical will condescend to eat while they are young. As the season advances these become larger and coarser, their price diminishes, and they are chiefly purchased by the poor. A youngster of a few years old may b'e frequently seen coming from market trailing a bundle of stalks as tall as itself. This is not a vegetable yielding any notable quantity of nourishment, but it is agreeably refreshing, though to some persons Rhubarb proves unwholesome, owing to the oxalic and malic acid it contains. One authority advises us to counteract these by taking a little magnesia after any pastry con¬ taining Rhubarb. Undoubtedly it is a slight laxative, for which reason our forefathers, fancying from its connection with the medicinal Rhubarb that it was still more aperient than it is, used to be chary of eating it. Even the name was thought to be ob¬ jectionable, and tarts composed of Rhubarb were said, rather absurdly, to be made of “ spring Apples.” If Rhubarb once passed thus for Apples it now sometimes does duty for Grapes, champagne being manufactured, and we may suppose approved, which is prepared from Gooseberries and Rhubarb in this country. The ancient Greeks, as we are informed, were well acquainted with the value of Rhubarb, and the Chinese probably at an earlier date, but neither of these peoples employed it as an article of food, only as a medicine, and it was the same with those who first grew Rhubarb on our English soil. Gerard appears to have been a little confused about it, not distinguishing, perhaps, the true species from what was called “ Monks’ Rhubarb,” the Rumex alpinus, brought by the monks from Switzerland or Germany. Before Gerard’s time both kinds may have been grown here, and Mr. Glasspoole refers to the mention of “ reuberbe ” seeds in a letter dated 1534, addressed to Cromwell, Secretary of State to Henry VIII. These were brought to England from Barbary. Whether Cromwell or his gardener succeeded in rearing plants we cannot tell. Tusser puts it down as a suitable species for the herb garden, but he may have meant the “ Monks’ Rhubarb,” substituted by these reverend adulterators for the roots of the true Rhubarb, or at least mixed with them. Nor do I much believe the story copied one from another by sundry old books on gardening, that in the sixteenth century the people boiled the entire leaves of Rhubarb and ate them as we eat Spinach. There is no sufficient evidence of any usage of the stalks until the middle of the reign of George III., or about that period ; and the attempts to produce English Rhubarb in order to compete with the imported drug did not prove very successful, nor is the English root of much value at present, although we possess methods of culture far in advance of those known two hundred years ago. Parkinson, author of several curious works upon botany, had seeds of the common garden Rhubarb (R. rhaponticum) in 1G29, but it did not spread for a long time, even in the vicinity of London. R. palmatum and undulatum, species also grown in gardens for the sake of the stalks, did not come over until many years afterwards, and people ate Rhubarb, as stated above, with considerable caution. Mr. Myatt of Deptford, a member of a family that is historic in market gardening, might claim to have done much to bring Rhubarb into notice by his persistency in sending supplies to the Borough Market about the beginning of this century. Kent gardens and others also in Surrey or Middle¬ sex continue to yield tons of Rhubarb annually, for this vegetable, it was found, could be cultivated near London, where choicer vegetables refused to grow in consequence of the smoke. But the builders are fast banishing even Rhubarb. I saw a patch of it growing a few years since on the last plot undisturbed of the formerly extensive market gardens belonging to the Catleughs, situate near Sloane Street, and between the King’s Road, Chelsea, and Brompton Road. The progress of horticulture has displaced the old types of Rhubarb, giving us hybrids of superior texture and flavour. Another vegetable that we naturally associate with the beginning of the year is Seakale, the appellation suggesting a maritime con¬ nection which is inexplicable to those who have not read the early history of the plant, or seen it growing on those spots where it flourishes even yet in a wild state, although it is now scarcer on our coasts than in bygone days. It is rather a curious fact, and one seemingly supported by good evidence, that the Romans used Seakale as a provision for voyages, but did not generally eat it upon shore. For this purpose, however, they cut the plants on the sandy beaches where it mostly occurs, and then stored it in barrels, with the addition of oil or spice, some think. Along the south coasts of England Seakale has been gathered by the in¬ habitants for many centuries, some skill being shown in watching for the right period, because after a certain stage of growth the wild plants become very unpalatable, probably also unwhole¬ some, a bitter principle being developed during the summer. Devon, Dorset, Sussex, and Kent have been mentioned as counties to which the plant is or has been partial. In its characteristics Seakale is precisely the opposite of the vegetable first noticed. Rhubarb is rich in acids, and this plant in alkalis, being therefore easy to digest, and, in fact, very much akin to the Cabbage tribes, though some connoisseurs think it almost equal to Asparagus. On the continent it is not thought much of, and the price with us is seldom low enough to bring it upon the tables of middle-class folk. Yet Seakale is, we think, a vegetable that might be advantageously eaten by most during the season of spring. To Philip Miller, whose “ Gardener’s Dic¬ tionary ” names this plant in 1731, and whose memory yet lingers in the Apothecaries’ Garden at Chelsea, belongs the repute of having been the first to commend it as an esculent. It was, JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. April 5, 1883. ] 283 indeed, referred to, but very slightly, by the old herbalists Gerard and Turner. Gerard calls Seakale the “ Sea Colewort,” and Turner designates it “ Dover-cole,” because he had picked plants near Dover. Both noted the fact that the species could grow without earth amongst the sand and pebbles. The eighteenth century was well advanced before Seakale came into any market. A corre¬ spondent of “ Notes and Queries ” states that it was introduced to Bath by Mr. Southcote, of Stoke Fleming, about 1775, and soon after sold at Exeter for half a crown a root. Another corre¬ spondent quotes a statement that some years previously a parcel of the roots had been sent to Covent Garden Market, but, the label being lost, they were thrown aside as doubtful. Near the end of that century Dr. Lettsom, who had a garden and shrubbery at Grove Hill, Camberwell, that attained considerable repute, grew Seakale, and recommended the culture of it from his own experience. He may have prompted Curtis’s pamphlet upon this vegetable, which appeared in 1822. In one page Curtis alludes to the indifference or dislike shown to Seakale whenever it had been sent to the London mar¬ kets. Quite a change has taken place these recent years. — J. K. S. C. in your valuable Journal, from which I have gained so much informa¬ tion. After having found the main run which the moles used I gathered as many Elder leaves, green and fresh, as I could hold in my hands, and after well bruising them until they smelt very strong I placed them in the main run, pushing them in with a small stick. 1 did this six years ago, and not a trace of a mole has been since seen. This remedy was told me by an old gardener many years ago, and also one to destroy wasps, which I will send another time. — H. Y. CHOICE HAEDY PLANTS IN FLOWER. NARCISSI!?. The Daffodils are beginning to reveal their beauties regardless of biting winds and frosts. The Hoop Petticoat (N. Bulboco- REVIEW OF BOOK. Choice Stove and Greenhouse Flowering Plants. Third Edition. By B. S. Williams, F.L.S., Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper Holloway, The fact that two editions of this work have already been sold out is sufficient indication of it3 merits, and now a third edition has been issued to meet the continued demand. It has been con¬ siderably enlarged, carefully revised, and nume¬ rous illustrations are added which render the book more attractive and instructive. Upwards of thir¬ teen hundred species and varieties of flowering plants succeeding either in a stove or greenhouse are described, the cultural details being both lucid and practical. It is this which renders the work of so much value to amateurs and to gardeners generally, for in the 378 pages is embodied the long experience of a most successful cultivator whose handsome specimen plants have carried his fame throughout Great Britain and the continent. The chapters preceding each division of the hook upon heating, shading, soils, potting, watering, propa¬ gating, insects, construction of houses, and miscel¬ laneous introductory matters are excellent, con¬ veying much valuable information under their respective headings. As an example of the method adopted we ex¬ tract the following remarks upon Habrothamnus elegans and its variegated form, the latter being one which Mr. B. S. Williams sent out a few years ago, and which the woodcut faithfully represents. “ II. elegans. — This plant is a member of a very large family, and is an old and well-known species, thriving under almost any treatment. It is espe¬ cially useful for covering a pillar, rafter, or hack wall in a conservatory. The leaves are alternate, entire, oblong-lanceolate, about 3 inches long, deep green above, pubescent beneath. The flowers are tubular, about an inch in length, of a deep reddish purple colour, and are freely produced in dense racemes. If the flowers are artificially impregnated they produce beautiful bunches of large deep red berries, which make the plant doubly ornamental. Cuttings of this plant root with the greatest ease. It is a native of Mexico, growing at an elevation of nearly 4000 feet. “ II. elegans argentea. — This variety is useful alike for its beau¬ tiful variegated foliage as well as its flowers, which are the same as H. elegans. The leaves are soft creamy white, tinged with rose, and relieved with irregular blotches of light green. This ornamental foliage forms a charming contrast with the deep reddish purple flowers.” Fig. 70.— Habrothamnus elegans argentea. Garden variety. dium) is almost the first ; and what a lovely thing it is with its narrow acute perianth segments and its huge corona of the deepest yellow ! Where this thrives well it is a gem, but it is fastidious. It enjoys a stiff soil, cool and moist, and I think it does as well at the Oxford Botanic Gardens as anywhere, forming dense clumps. The various forms of the common Daffodil (N. pseudo-Narcissus) rapidly succeed the preceding. The typical form is scarcely out in the cold dull climate of Cheshire, but minor is. I refer now to the true minor of Linnaeus, which is decidedly distinct from Moles in Gardens. — Having been successful in driving moles from a garden by a very simple method, you may, perhaps, find space for it 284 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ April 5, 1883. the kind usually sent out as minor, which is nanus of Haworth. The true plant is decidedly the best, although the one called nanus is pretty enough. They both nod to the earth, and the flowers are about the same size. The true minor has narrower more acute perianth segments, cup rather longer with a more rounded tube, and the leaves are rather shorter and broader, and I think the flowers are more bent to the soil— even touching it — than nanus. The latter is undoubtedly a form of minor, and was considered such by Haworth, for he also named it minor var. conspicua. A duplex form of nanus is also in bloom, very dwarf, with flowers rather more erect. All three are most desirable little plants and well worth growing, most easily managed, simply requiring to be planted in rich soil, and if in clumps the effect is greatly enhanced. I have another in bloom named minimus, which is very much smaller, with longer peduncles ; flowers slightly pendulous, about three-quarters of an inch long and not quite so wide, with a deep yellow copiously fringed cup. It is indeed a little gem, very rare but easily grown : and between this and minor there is an inter¬ mediate form much smaller than the latter but larger than mini¬ mus. Burbidge gives a good figure of the last in his Monograph, and he remarks that Herbert in his “ Amaryllidacese ” gives figures of two forms still smaller than the recognised minimus. This is so in plates 39 and 41 of that work, one of which is named pumilus, and is very small. It is a pity these have been lost to cultivation. Mr. Barr has a variety now in flower named pal- lidus praccox, and which Parkinson evidently had a knowledge of, and most lovely it is. The flowers are not quite so large as those of the type ; the outer divisions shorter than the cup, of a pale sulphur, while the cup is slightly deeper in colour, the tube dilated at the base, smooth, with a moderate fringe. I suppose this has the advantage of early flowering over pallidus itself, which with me has flower stems only about 2 inches high ; but we must make some allowance for the climatal difference between this part and London. Mr. Barr, however, says he thinks prtecox has not been in cultivation in this country since the days of Parkinson. Mos- chatus is a pretty variety, distinct in form and colour ; the outer divisions are oblong, rather blunt, creamy white, while the corona is long, clear yellow, with the tube fluted and the margin freely friDged. It has a strong and not disagreeable perfume. All the above are varieties of the common N. pseudo-Narcissus (with the exception of the Hoop Petticoat) of our woods in meadows, although distinct from each other, which has caused them to be regarded and described by the older botanists as distinct species. LEUCOJUM YERNUJI. This is a chaste little harbinger of spring, with its pendant white flowers with green tips, most freely produced, as it is most easily suited as to soil and position, merely requiring — as far as my experience teaches — a light rich soil. I believe there is a double-flowered variety, which, however, I have not seen ; but Mons. de Graaff informed me he had it in flower last year, and two bulbs were purchased from him : but I am afraid they will not gratify us with flowers this season, still it must be very pretty. SAXIFRAGA STRACHEYI. This is perhaps the finest of the Himalayan Saxifrages, at least, of those introduced to our gardens. It is a great pity indeed that it will not quite endure our climate without some protection, such as is afforded it by a frame ; but its beautiful thyrsoid trusses of flowers are far more handsome when they expand in a cool house. I am sure it is a very excellent plant for the decoration of the cool greenhouse, while the graceful curva¬ ture of the primary and secondary branches of the spike is very effective. A very enthusiastic admirer the other day remarked that it was equally as attractive as many Orchids. So it is, but not so showy as many other Orchids. I have flowers on one spike which measure 14 inch across, pure white, with red glistening discs and red stamens. I have never yet succeeded in seeding it, but am trying again this season. S. thyrsanodes is new to me, having been sent, I believe, into this country by that indefatigable cultivator Herr Max Leichtlin of Baden-Baden, and it is quite distinct from any other kind I am acquainted with. The leaves are very large and covered with long hairs. Flowers in dense heads, clustered, with the ramifications but slightly curved, not quite so large as those of Stracheyi, but very fine, pure white with red stamens. It is very floriferous, and, like the last species, requires slight protection. — Cestrian. ROSE WILLIAM ALLEN RICHARDSON. IN reply to an inquiry by “A Young Bosarian,” page 128, I give a short account of the above Rose. It was first distributed in 1878 by Madame Ducher at Lyons. The growth is very vigorous, with long branches, much resembling the variety Reve d’Or, with a dark glossy foliage. It bears at the tips of its branches trusses of lovely flowers of moderate size, and of a deep clear orange yellow outside. Under glass the colour changes to reddish orange. I do not know any Rose of that peculiar colour. The plant has to be well protected against the cold and frost in spring. All our Marechal Niels and Noisettes are killed by only 10° Reaumur of frost. — Heinrich Schultheis, Stewfurth-Nanheun Ilcssen. HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. Spring Pruning. — So frequently has it been attested that newly planted trees must remain unpruned till spring, that the practice has probably been adopted by many of our readers. To such the time has come for action, and a little advice will serve to help many a hesitating beginner. Pyramidal trees often come from a nursery with 2 or 3 feet of the bottom part of the stem bare of branches, and this is the case not merely with trees one year from the graft, called maidens because they have never been pruned, but of trees three or four years old, said to be in a fruiting con¬ dition and proportionately costly. In either case the upper part must be sacrificed for the sake of the future tree, and the stem severed at 2 feet from the base if the bark is hard and the buds unlikely to burst freely into growth, as is often the case in trees that have been crowded together in nursery rows till they have become almost unsaleable ; but the soft bark and more prominent buds of younger trees admit of the stem being left G or 8 inches longer. We have so treated hundreds of young trees of Plums, Pears, Apples, and Cherries, and have never known them fail to make a free strong lateral growth from the union of stock and scion upwards. Dwarf-trained trees must be pruned in accordance with the form they are eventually to take. Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Cherries, and Figs are all best of the ordinary fan shape. If they are maidens with single stems cut the stem asunder at the fifth or sixth bud from its base ; but if they are a year older shorten according to their strength and position, taking care to leave the lower branches longest. For example : if a tree has three branches on each side, if the bottom ones are shortened to 2 feet the next two should be pruned to 18 inches and the top pair to 1 foot, in order to maintain an equal distribution of vigour. Palmette verrier is the best form for large trees of Pears and Plums on walls and fences. The stems of maidens must be pruned to three buds, or four if either of the bottom buds appear doubtful, the object being to secure a pair of side shoots yearly till the tree fills its allotted space. Older trees with side branches must have them shortened in a similar manner to other dwarf- trained trees, and the central or stem growth shortened to three buds above the upper pair of branches. Cordons of a year old from the graft must be shortened to about 2 feet from the base. If older, they are shortened more or less as the general appearance of the tree requires ; more, if the stem is not well furnished with spurs, or the tree is weakly ; less, if it is robust and well furnished with lateral growth. Standards must have the young growth shortened to 1G or 18 inches, and thinned if necessary, five or six shoots being enough to form the main branches of the largest trees. Prune every shoot to an outer bud in view of forming a handsome spreading head, and examine the supports of each tree as you prune it, for it is important they should be carefully secured till the roots are well established in the soil, both for the health of the tree and its subsequent appearance. Bush trees may be shortened in proportion to their strength, 2 feet being a safe maximum length. If they are intended to have dwarfed closed pruned branches more may be retained than if the growth is to be eventually left unpruned like a standard. In either case keep the centre clear of growth, so as to admit a free play of light and air among the branches. Some sorts of fruit are of such a close erect habit of growth as to be quite unsuitable for bushes, and require much care in pruning every main branch to an outer bud, and in training while the growth is young and pliant. To do this well requires much care and watch¬ fulness, but with this there is no reason why every kind may not be trained perfectly to whatever form taste or fancy may suggest. April 5, 1S83 ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 285 If by any mischance Raspberry canes were planted unpruned in the autuniD, at once shorten them to 18 inches. FRUIT FORCING. Figs. — The Fig is a gToss feeder, and making roots very rapidly, yet caution is necessary in the application of stimulants in dull sunless weather, even to plants in pots. In houses which are close and low, therefore unfavourable to the drying of the foliage, syringing should be practised between 1 and 2 P.M., and if done thoroughly red spider will not increase much. All watering in dull weather should be done early in the day. Attend well to thinning and stopping side shoots, as these, in the production of the second crop of fruit, will repay the attention given in the formation of spurs. Train all leading or terminal shoots forward where there is space to fill, and ventilate carefully on all favour¬ able occasions, avoiding too high a night temperature, which may be kept at 60°, a few degrees higher in mild weather, and a few degrees less on cold nights, with a rise of 5° to 10° from fire heat by day and 15° to 20° from sun heat, giving air at 75° and closing at 80°. Trees growing in inside borders in succession houses should be encouraged to make surface roots by mulchings of half- decomposed manure, supplying water copiously, and keep the mulching constantly moist. Syringe twice on fine days, stopping and training as the growth proceeds, following the semi-extension system if space admits and fine fruit be a primary consideration. Stop young plants intended for culture in pots when about a foot in height. Cherry House. — Attention will now be required in tying-in those shoots where it is considered advisable to reserve them for supplying any deficiency. Syringe the trees freely twice a day in fine weather, but once only in dull weather, and then early. The syringing should be done regularly until the stoning is completed, but immediately this is effected the fruit should be kept dry to prevent its cracking ; and to prevent too dry a condition of the atmosphere available surfaces about the house should be sprinkled occasionally — no fear of injury resulting from dampness if the house be properly ventilated above 55°. See that there are no insect pests on the trees, as it is of the greatest importance to insure a crop of the finest description that the trees be perfectly clean before the fruit commences ripening. Aphides are best destroyed by fumigation, which must, however, be done moderately on the evening of a calm day, being careful to have the foliage dry. When the fruit commences the last swelling the border should be well supplied with water or liquid manure as necessary, trees in pots requiring special attention in this respect. The temperature at present may range from 40° to 45° at night, the heat being turned on early so as to have the temperature 50° by 8 A.M., admitting a little air at the top of the house at 55°, increasing it to G0°, and this is reduced by degrees, taking it off at 55°. In sunny weather abundance of ventilation should be given both at the top and front of the house, the temperature not being reduced below 70°. Vines. — Late houses started early in February will now be making rapid progress and will need the final disbudding, stop¬ ping, and tying before the young shoots reach the glass. Where space admits stop them two or three joints beyond the fruit, and allow the first laterals to fill all vacancies. The shoots, however, should be trained sufficiently wide apart to admit of the full and even development of the foliage, and its due exposure to light and air. Give inside borders a thorough soaking with tepid water or liquid manure, and secure as much sun heat as possible by early closing. Muscats in flower should have a rather high and dry atmosphere to insure a good set, but a too dry condition of the atmosphere should be guarded against by damping available sur¬ faces occasionally in bright weather. Carefully fertilise the blooms with a camel’s-hair brush at a high temperature after the bunches come into flower, and reduce the strain on the Vines by the removal of the surplus bunches. Grapes in the early House now in their last swelling should have a final examination, and if any of the bunches are likely to bind take out a few of the least promising berries. When the Grapes begin to colour gradually reduce the moisture, giving air liberally by day and night, but close for a couple of hours in the afternoon, with sun heat to secure the proper swelling-off of the berries, afterwards admit air for the night, a circulation of rather dry warm air being essential to high flavour and good finish. THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. Choice Annuals. — Seeds of these sown at once will give a number of plants, which, if properly treated, will surpass those sown much earlier, these being almost certain to experience an injurious check before they can be finally planted out. The most important are Asters and Stocks of sorts, Phlox Drummondi, Dianthuses, single and double Zinnias in variety, French and African Marigolds, choice Eschscholtzias, Godetias and Clarkias, annual Chrysanthe¬ mums, Portulacas, Tropseolums, Sunflowers, Tagetes, Helichry- sums with other Everlastings, and ornamental Grasses. A mild hotbed is most favourable for the germination of the seed, which may be either sown on finely sandy soil disposed to a depth of 4 inches over the surface of the bed, or in boxes, pans, or pots of similar soil. In every case the soil should be made firm and well moistened prior to sowing, and the seed must be scattered thinly, pressed into the soil with the back of a spade or other smooth hard substance, and be only just covered with more of the fine sandy soil. If darkened with mats, paper, or other material to hasten germination this should be removed directly the seedlings are visible, and a light shading substituted during clear days. Give air moderately at first, afterwards more freely, and prick out the seedlings into sifted soil on other beds, or in boxes or pans, before they are much drawn. Plants thus obtained can be readily transplanted, and soon become established in their flowering quarters. Golden Pyrethrum and Perilla nankinensis may yet be sown either in pans or boxes, or broadcast in a frame on a slight hotbed. In the former case it is generally necessary to prick out the seedlings into boxes or frames, the Pyrethrum about 3 inches apart each way, a less distance sufficing if sown late, or if required for carpet beds. Ricinuses and Japanese Maize may now be sown, the former singly in 4-inch pots, and the latter singly in pots a size smaller, this being preferable to sowing thickly. Both kinds germinate quickly in a moist heat, and the former especially should in the early stage of growth be kept near the glass, otherwise they become drawn and weakly. Both are effective yet cheap orna- mental-foliaged bedding plants, and suitable either for groups, back rows, or for dotting among dwarfer-growing bedding plants. Mignonette and Sweet Peas are generally in great demand for cutting purposes, and if a small quantity of seed be sown thinly in 3-inch pots, placed on a shelf in a cool or moderately warm house, or in a frame till germinated, the seedlings being thinned out in the case of the Mignonette to about three in a pot, hard¬ ened off, and eventually planted in a warm mixed border before becoming much root-bound, a considerable gain will be effected. Both kinds should also be sown in the open ground, but most other annuals may well be kept out of the ground till it becomes warmer. Pricking-out Seedlings. — Lobelias, Ageratums, Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, Cineraria maritima, and Petunias when large enough to handle should be pricked out in pans, boxes, or beds of good fine soil, allowing space in each instance to admit of their being finally transplanted with a small ball of soil about the roots. Dibble them in up to their seed leaves, taking care to properly fix the soil about the roots with the point of the dibble, give tepid water through a fine-rose pot, shade from bright sunshine, and keep them close until re-established. Seedlings of Cbammpeuce, Centaureas, Dahlias, Eucalyptus, Grevillea robusta, Solanums, Acacia lophantha, Polymnia grandis, Ferdinandiaeminens, Cannas, and other subtropical plants may be potted off singly into 3-inch pots. Wigandia and Nicotianas should be pricked off into pans or boxes, and potted later on. All should be kept growing, and many, according to their vigour, will require a liberal shift, or they soon become stunted. Various. — Old roots of Dahlias placed in heat will have pushed up several growths, and these when about 3 inches long may be taken off with a heel and easily struck in a not over-moist heat ; or cuttings can be made without heels, providing the growth is not hollow. The old stools can later on be divided, each division having a shoot and a tuber attached, and be potted off singly into 6-inch or 8-inch pots. With Dahlias one strong growth is prefer¬ able to two or more weakly ones, and by putting out well-rooted plants an early start is made. The tuberous-rooted Salvia patens may be treated very similarly, the tops and side shoots striking readily in heat, and soon form strong plants. Take out the points of autumn-struck shrubby Calceolarias and Gazania splendens, and should the stock be too small these tops can be struck in heat. Coleuses, Ageratums, Lobelias. Heliotropes, Koniga, Verbenas, Iresines, Alternantheras, and Pelargoniums now strike quickly, and the tops of each newly struck plant should be taken off when large enough to form cuttings. Potting or boxing-off is generally performed when topped plants are breaking, as at this stage the least check to the growth is given. Old stools of Cannas started in heat may be split up, every crown if potted and kept in a little heat soon growing to a good size. With a view to preparing Zonal Pelargoniums for the beds in the flower garden advantage should now be taken of the mild weather to transfer them to the cold frames, so that the plants may be gradually hardened off and not receive a check when the bedding time arrives. 286 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ April 5, 1883. iS 3? HE BEE-KEEPER. I b-a) THE ART OF BEE-KEEPING.— No. 9. ( Continued from page 185.) SECTIONS. The so-called sections now so generally used for the storage of surplus honey in the comb are of various sizes and styles of manufacture. Those most used run from 1 lb. to 2 lb. sizes. Some are sent out by the makers in pieces for nailing, others with the ends dovetailed ready to go together without nails, and others in one piece for folding, the only joint being dovetailed. Which of these is to be selected by the bee-keeper must depend on circum¬ stances. If certain sizes are preferred in the market, of course these must be worked ; and hitherto the 1 lb. size seems most in favour. We prefer the larger sizes as being in the end less costly, requiring less handling, and turning out fully more weight per hive than the smaller sizes. In all cases we prefer nailed or dovetailed sections to folding ones, notwithstanding the craze that exists for the latter as an ingenious piece of work. We never yet found one-piece sections that would stand uniformly square and remain so, and both for nice packing and glazing it is necessary that they be truly square. But their worst fault is in the slit that affords a passage to the bees. In the 1 lb. sizes this slit is nearly the full length of the top and bottom bar, and is less objectionable ; but in the larger sections it is no longer, and it thus leaves more or less of the top and bottom bars in contact, which causes the death of many bees while handling them on the hive. Then, in, say, a 7-inch section with a 4-inch slit, the bees feel hampered for passage ways, and consequently leave more holes through the combs. But the worst fault is in the trouble required in glazing the finished sections. The slit has to be cut out to the whole length of top and bottom bar before the glass can be gol into its proper place ; and to do this with wood at all cross-grained is not so easy. Dovetailed or nailed sections may be a trifle more trouble to put together, but this is more than counter¬ balanced by their superior advantages. They can be easily set square, they afford the full passage way to the bees, and they can be glazed without the least trouble. Our next difficulty is in selecting the best form of case for holding them while on or in the hive. Figure 58, page 413, May 29th, 1879, shows as good an arrangement as we know of for holding the sections when being worked either in the hive proper or in a similar hive used as a top storey. The frame as shown contains four sections, each measuring 6j by 4J inches, holding when filled lift. In using this size of section in the new standard frame the top bar may be omitted so as to keep it level with the other frames, and lugs must be nailed on the top of the side bars to form supports. We may here point out an objection to the use of the above form of frame, which applies also to various forms of the racks or trays for holding sections in supers proper. If the combs are expected to be well fastened to the bottom bar, and, indeed, to have no passage left, the bottom bar must be very thin. As a rule the section wood is thin enough, but a glance at the figure shows that it is doubled in both rows of sections by standing, as it does, on another of equal thickness. In such cases the holes left in the comb for passages are generally pretty large and numerous, reducing the calculated weight of the sections, and spoiling their appearance. To get the best results, then, the sections should have nothing under them more than supports at their ends. As formerly stated, we never had more perfectly finished combs than when the bottom rails were of thin glass. Figure 59, same page as above, shows the arrangement we find most convenient. The sections rest at their ends only on ledges a quarter of an inch deep. The slip between them, and the corresponding ones at the sides, are for the support of the tin separators, and their height is calculated according to the thickness of the wood in the bottom bar of the section. Thus, for sections one-eighth of an inch thick we add one- quarter of an inch for a bee passage, and this gives three-eighths of an inch as the height at which the separator should be supported. An equal passage is of course allowed at the top. A stronger form of tray is made by having the sides all round of a uniform depth, say 2 inches, and having the separators cut away at the ends, so that they hang on these sides to the proper depth. The central division may be done away with without much inconvenience, and the sections brought close together in the middle. We do this with the larger sections, measuring 7 inches by 5 inches, so as to bring the two within 14 inches the width of the most common stock sized sheets of tin. And in the case of 1 lb. sections we have two supporting rails, so as to hold three sections in a line. As these measure usually 4^ inches each, we have 12f inches as the length of the three. This will allow of four supports for the separators of fully one- quarter inch each in width and yet be within the same 14 inches. Where a nice fiat finish in the combs is no object, as when the honey is to be used at home or crated for market without glass, the separators may with advantage be omitted. They certainly hinder to some extent the work of comb-building by breaking up the cluster, and they tend to produce thinner combs. It is to be understood, of course, that the section tray may be of any size, though generally used large enough to nearly cover the top of a standard hive — that is, to hold three rows of 1 tt>. sections, seven in each row, or two rows of the larger sizes. The end sections are closed with glass, and a wedge keeps all firmly together. The only other matter of importance in their preparation is to see that each section has a guide of comb foundation fastened exactly in the middle of the top bar. The foundation used for this purpose should be of the very thinnest and clearest obtainable. We now use for this purpose a special make, having four and a half cells to the inch — that is, neither worker nor drone cell. Last season’s experience almost warrants us in declaring it the best super foundation yet made. In no case was it used for brood, and in every case it was readily accepted by the bees. To those who hesitate to dispense with the old-fashioned honey board between the super and the brood frames, or the newer invention of queen- excluding zinc, both of which are a great hindrance to the bees, such a make of foundation should prove a great boon. To obtain the full advantage, however, it should be used large enough to nearly fill the section, otherwise drone cells might be built below. — William Raitt, Blairgowrie. DANGERS AND DIFFICULTIES. The severity and continuance of the frost and cold weather have made bee-keepers anxious about their bees. Such anxiety is pretty general, and not to be wondered at. Earnest inquiries are made by apiarians on all hands as to what probable and possible injury bas been done by the severe frost and cold weather in our apiaries. Like others we have had, and still have, grave fears as to the injuries done to bees by the frost at this very unseasonable time. The danger most feared is that of chilled brood — in other words, unhatched brood chilled to death in the centre of stock hives. Dead or chilled brood soon becomes foul ; and a little of this in the centre of a hive at the beginning of April would be disastrous in the extreme, for nothing excepting the loss of queens is so discouraging to bees and disappointing to bee-masters as foul brood. The presence of foul brood in a hive of bees puts an end to all prosperity. Strong hives well covered are seldom hurt by the severest of our winter storms, but winter storms in the breed¬ ing season are far more dangerous ; the difficulty, as already indicated, is to keep the brood warm enough. Another danger at this season is the loss of bees by reason of age. Bees die at the age of nine months, and many arrive at that age and die in April. Last autumn in England bees ceased breeding at an early date, and comparatively few were hatched later than the end of July. Dead bees may now be found on the bottom boards of hives, and, if these be swept off, the boards do not remain clean long. No treatment could prolong their lives. This is the case every year ; but in ordinary seasons more bees are born than die, and therefore during the spring months hives become numerically stronger ; but in cold seasons, such as the present one, bees are so discouraged and so unable to attend to brood that they decline to set eggs, and hence hives become naturally weaker and weaker, and many collapse entirely. Many hives in this country are exposed to this danger at the present time, having few bees and no brood. Some five or six years ago we had a long cold spring — so cold that bees could not be tempted to leave their nests for food offered to them. Breeding did not begin till the end of April, and in many hives all the old bees died before young could be hatched. In some apiaries all the hives were lost, in others four and six out of eight hives died — not from want of food, but loss of bees. It was a year of great loss and extinction of hives owing to the non-production of young bees in spring to take the places of those which died of age. At this time (now that the weather has become more temperate) all hives should be examined in order to ascertain which will sur¬ vive and which are likely to succumb. A short time ago the readers of the Journal were told that hives with only two seams of bees in March are more likely to die than to live ; and all stocks which are reduced to two seams of bees now are in greater danger of extinction, because the living bees are a month nearer their end than they were in March, and, moreover, it will be three weeks before eggs set now can be hatched. All weak hives have April 5, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 287 great difficulties ahead. The skill of bee-masters will be tried in saving all his stocks. Hives with only two seams of bees should be united to other weak stocks. Far better is it to have one stock likely to live and do well than two or three likely to die even under good nursing. The process of uniting bees at this season of the year is simple, and can be done in the apiary in the warmth of mid-day sun, or in a room of the house by candlelight. In uniting bees in cold weather the summer and autumn process of driving them is not followed. In cold weather bees are loth to leave their warm quarters and run over cold combs into empty bives. Hence the drumming process is dispensed with, and the wrork is more easily and speedily done otherwise. A little warm syrup is sprinkled over the bees to be united ; about ten minutes after they have had the syrup they will be found setting loosely over and amongst their combs ; then the bees to be surrendered are easily shaken out of their hives and united to the others. As we do it the work does not occupy more than half a minute. With straw hives, the combs of which are fast enough, we shake the bees by one or two sudden jerks into the other hive or on to its board, and place the hive on the board. Bees thus united seldom, if ever, fight in spring. We do not remember ever having made an unsuccessful effort to unite bees. With bar-frame hives the bars of combs with bees attached are lifted out one by one, and the bees swept from them into the other hive by a hand brush. The sooner such unions are made the better ; and the sooner bees are induced to recommence breeding the more likely are they to survive their weakly condition and do well. By the time one hatch of brood is produced the weather will be warmer, brood will require less heat from bees, and larger sheets of brood will be pro¬ duced. Meanwhile all hives should be warmly covered, regularly fed, and every attention given to them ; and if chilled brood be found in any hives it should be cut clean out and burned or buried, and fresh sound combs fitted in the places of the combs cut out. It is easier to do such work than to describe how it is done. — A. Pettigrew. TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Vilmorin, Andrieux, & Cie, 4, Quai de la Megisserie, Paris. — Cata¬ logue of Seeds. Jules de Cock, Ledeberg, Ghent, Belgium. — List of Palms. *** All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ’’ or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Books (J. S.). — We are obliged by your letter, which is just such as we expect to receive, and do receive, from thoughtful men. Everything you have said shall be borne in mind. If we published everything we receive we should inevitably subject the writers to criticism of a kind from which they would bo glad to be relieved. At the same time we endeavour to insert all letters that contain matter that can be profitably discussed by our readers. We shall be glad to hear from you at any time, and in anything we publish we will take care you are not subjected to unfair criticism. Tubs for Orange Trees (Mac). — Pitching the tubs inside will not injure the roots, neither would Stockholm tar — not coal tar, and both will preserve the wood. The latter would perhaps be the more convenient to apply. It is quite contrary to our custom to recommend any particular kind of hives for bees. Pettigrew’s Cardiff Castle Cucumber ( Old Subscriber).— It has been frequently advertised in out columns, and is referred to in our present issue. Potatoes (C. R., Stafford). — We are obliged by your note, but it reached us too late for publication in the section in which it ought to have appeared, and cannot now be included in the lists. Had we received it in time it would have been readily inserted. We shall be glad to have a note from you at any time, and except under such special and unusual circumstances as in the present case it is sure to be published. Cropping Vines (Mount View).— A fair crop for your Tines, so far a3 we can understand their condition, would be about 1J ft. to each foot run of rod ; they may perhaps, however, carry 2 fts. We have seen 3 fts. finish well to each lineal foot of stem, but the Tines were very healthy and vigorous. A profit can be made by Grape-growing by persons who grow them for market solely, and know what varieties realise the best prices at a given time, but amateur cultivators seldom find them particularly remunerative. The laterals should be 18 inches apart or thereabouts up each side of the rod, or a space of that distance between them on both sides ; 9 inches apart is decidedly too close. The best Grapes that are grown in Sheffield have the laterals 18 inches apart, more or less, as no one can have them at the exact distance. Inarching Rose (R. O. M.). — You may inarch at any time when the growths on both plants are a little firm — that is, not succulent, cutting a long and rather deep slice from the shoots to be united, binding them together and covering with moss or grafting wax. You may cut down the Marechal N iel as low as you like, perhaps the lower the better, provided (and this is important) that there are healthy buds for starting into growth. We cut down the growths of a plant after flowering to the base of the rafters every year, and yo.ung shoots issue and cover the roof the same season, giving quantities of fine blooni3 the following spring. Application of Potato Manures (S. S.).— The rule for all artificial manures is to sprinkle them evenly in the drills at planting time. Such a mix¬ ture as you refer to should be applied at the rate of about 1 ft. to 8 yards of a row, the rows being from 26 to 30 inches apart, which is the usual width for field Potatoes. If part farmyard manure is used the nitrate had better be left out till the Potatoes are ready for hilling-up, otherwise half should be given at planting time and half afterwards. The reason for this is that nitrate salts, being very soluble, are liable to be washed away before the plants can utilise them. On your porous subsoil sulphate of ammonia would probably prove more effective than nitrate of soda. Light warm soils, especially in the southern counties, arc apt to be poor in nitrogen, and this should be borne in mind, espe¬ cially when land is not “ in good heart ” as it is termed. Any seedsman or dealer in horticultural requisites will procure, if he does not keep in stock, any of the manures you mention. It would be unfair for us to name any particular dealer, aud consequently, as we have many times stated, it is contrary to our rule to do s r. Marechal Niel Rose (M. II. 2?.).— Both cutting off the leaves and using the oil stove may have caused the young foliage to fall, these stoves when highly heated being injurious, while cutting off any great quantity of fresh foliage at once would certainly check the action of the roots and the flow of sap into the branches. We think you must have erred in defoliating the tree to the extent that your letter indicates. All you can do now is to apply tepid liquid manure to the roots, and maintain a healthy genial atmosphere in the house, syringing the plant early in the afternoons of bright days, when the house should be closed. The right time for syringing aud closing can only be determined by the weather, but it should be done in time for the temperature to rise to 80° afterwards, and in order that the house and plant may be fairly dry before nightfall. No shading whatever will be needed — at least until the flowers commence expanding. Shading Greenhouse ( Ilarborne ). — There are too distinct methods of shading — namely, portable in the form of roller blinds ; and permanent by applying a mixture to the glass. We prefer the former, but the latter answers very v7ell for large houses and various plants, such as Ferns, Palms, and Camellias. For flowering plants we employ light canvas blinds, and only use them when the sun is bright. The best mode of affixing the blind is undoubt¬ edly, in our opinion, on a light iron framework a foot above the glass. The plants do not become “drawn ” under such a shade nearly to the same extent as W'hen the material rests on the roof ; still with attention and judgment the latter plan answers very well. A very good wash for applying to the glass is made as follows Ingredients : 1 ft. of wheat flour, half pound of whiting, and 1 ft. of common candle or Russian tallow. Make the flour into a paste, and then put in the candles while the paste is hot, crush the whiting into a powder, mix with cold water, and then add to the paste, also addiug as much Brunswick green as you need. When required for use warm it in a pail and paint the glass when the sun is shining upon it. Mareclial Niel Rose Unsatisfactory (II. A).— Your plant which has made such extensive growth, and only been planted eighteen months, is evidently overtaxed. A bloom at every joint of one shoot alone 30 feet long, to say nothing of the other portions, amounts decidedly to a too heavy crop for a young plant. We should have shortened the growths considerably, aud next year you would have had powerful root-action and a healthy permanent plant. The resources of the roots will now be directed, and wisely so, to the four young growths at the base. These you had better encourage, and the parts now producing flowers cut away as soon as the blooms have faded. You will do well also to apply tepid liquid manure to the roots. If the young shoots had not started we should have advised you to cut your plant down now, with the object of inducing the production of basal growths. You are fortunate in having them, and perhaps some of the blooms may also expand as the weather improves. Mildew occurred in the cool division of your house because the temperature was favourable for the germination of the spores. It is often very troublesome in Heath houses. Laced Polyanthuses (O. R.). — We state again what we have probably stated fifty times before, that we know of no material so unsuitable for packing flowers in as dry cotton wool. You would have been surprised if you had seen the withered condition in which your flowers arrived. If a little moist wool had been tied round the stems, and the packing had consisted of a portion of a Cabbage leaf or Spinach, they would have reached us as fresh as when cut from the plants. So far as we can judge they appear to be very good border flowers, the body colour being rich and the lacing prominent, but this is too feathery, not sufficiently7 defined for the standard of merit of the florist. Muscat Vines (A Subscriber). — Your Tine appears to have done extremely well, and there is danger in over-cropping it. You did not state the length of the rod ; however, if you estimate the Grapes at 1J lb. per foot run of rod that weight will be ample to leave on such a young Tine. The laterals, or side shoots, should be about 15 inches apart on each side of the rod, those not required to be removed. Still if they are very numerous only remove two or three a day until the proper reduction is made. You are doing quite right by stopping as yrou state. Continue the practice of pinching to one leaf, as it is made from this time throughout the season. It will do no harm whatever to the Tine, but probably good, to train the growth along the back wa* ; but you may stop the shoot at the top of the rafter if more convenient. We do not sufficiently know the circumstances of the case to speak more positively on this point. Home-grown v. Foreign Lily of the Valley (C. TF.). — Acting on your second letter we do not publish your first. No doubt the imported clumps to which you refer were fine, but we doubt if they excelled the home-grown examples of “ R. T.” You describe clumps with “ three or four dozen of euor- 288 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. t April «, lm. mous spikes,” while our correspondent states that he counted “ over six dozen in an 8-inch pot.” Wo have seen spikes grown by “ It. T.,” and i£ you can have samples sent to us from the grower to whom you refer we will tell you which are the finer. Marechal Niel Rose Withering (E. Mason). — We have never had so many inquiries relative to the failure of this Hose as during the present week, and we are not sure that you do not indicate the cause of failure in more than one case. Alone of those who have sought information you say your Rose is planted in an outside border and the stem brought within the house like a Vine. If this is so in other instances where the growths have withered we have no doubt whatever as to the cause of the injury. It is the action of the late severe frost and extreme cold winds on the exposed stem chilling and checking the flow of sap No injury might result so long as the plants remained dormant, unless the frost was unusually severe, but after the sap commences to flow even a slight frost is liable to do injury when the stem is exposed. We have known a valuable plant killed by frost in this manner, and have seen Vines seriously injured. All stems both of Vines and Roses grown in the manner indicated should be encased in haybands at all times, and especially should the coverings be made effective at the commencement of growth in the spring. Pruning Azaleas ( E. B.). — As a rule these plants need but little pruning, and all that is required can usually be done with the finger and thumb. This appears to have been 3-our practice, but you have commenced pinching too soon. When the flowers fade they should be picked off to prevent the formation of seed pods, but the growths starting from the base must be carefully preserved. If the plants grow quickly and vigorously the young shoots, or the strongest of them, may be pinched when about 2 inches long, If this is done early in the season the succeeding growths will have time to mature and form flower buds. Weak shoots must not be pinched at all, or the plants will not flower freely another year. You certainly did wrong by pinching the growths in the manner you state ; only exceedingly vigorous plants could endure such close pinching without injury. Potatoes (TV. J. P., Lancashire). — It is most difficult, if not impossible, for anyone to name Potatoes from half a dozen tubers. You sent five tubers, and they have been very carefully examined. Onr opinion is that three of them are Mona’s Pride, and the other two resemble Myatt’s Prolific. Mona’s Pride has purple sprouts, those of Myatt’s being faintly tinted with purple. Even if the two tubers that resemble Myatt's were taken out of the centre of a heap or sack their growths would necessarily be more or less white ; but if all the tubers you have sent have been similarly exposed to light, then they represent two varieties. Taking the tubers before us as a fair sample, our opinion is that the bulk con¬ sists of Mona's Pride, the remaining portion being Myatt's Prolific, this being as good, if not better, than the other for growing on farms. Both are early varieties, though not quite so early as the old Ashleaf, but are more prolific. Roses not Expanding (J. F. M., Herts). — We are sorry to see such unsatisfactory buds and abortive flowers as you have sent us. There is a very expressive but not over-elegant term, “ Gardener’s Greed." This we believe to be a case that comes under that denomination. The plant, like many others of this grand but much-abused Rose, has been overcropped, and has not sufficient strength to support the numerous blooms. The same result then follows as in the case of overcropped Vines — namely, failure. Further, the buds some time ago received a check in some way ; if near the glass they were possibly frozen, or the house may have been too damp— certain it is that they have been injured. We are sorry to see such a mass of decay, and the more so as this we consider the finest variety of Mardchal Niel. The plant should be pruned rather severely as soon as the flowers have faded, with the object of encouraging the production of strong growths. We presume it is planted out, and vigorous root-action should be promoted by fresh soil and manure. Rose Leaves Falling (F. J. J.). — It is not unusual for the old leaves of Marechal Niel to wither when fresh growths are advancing; we may, indeed, say it is quite usual for them to do so, and natural. They, however, sometimes fall prematurely from plants that are overcropped with flowers. The leaves you have sent indicate a lack of vigour in your plant. In all probability it would be well to remove as much surface soil as you can without seriously dis¬ turbing the roots, and add fresh compost — turfy loam, to which a fifteenth part of bonemeal is added, or the quantity of Clay’s Fertiliser recommended on page 246. You would thus encourage the production of fresh roots for appro¬ priating the food you could afterwards apply in liquid form. Making the soil quite black with soot — that is, spreading it on nearly an eighth of an inch thick, and applying water at a temperature of 100°, is excellent for root-bound Roses. We have seen water applied at a temperature of 13U° every time it was given for several days consecutively, and the growth of the plants was vigorous and of that deep dark green hue that cultivators like to see. Annual Marguerites ( C . E. B.). — The plant referred to is Chrysanthe¬ mum segetum, that grows wild in corn fields in some districts, usually where the soil is somewhat moist. It has bright yellow flowers, single, 2 inches in diameter, which were in dexiand last year for various decorative purposes, many being used in some of the designs at the exhibition of table decorations at the Royal Botanic Gardens last July. Sow the seed in the open ground in deep rich soil, thinning out the plants freely when they are large enough to be handled. If we desired a bed of “ Corn Marigolds,” the popular name of the plant, we should sow in rows a foot apart, and thin out the plants to 6 inches asunder. Scale on Camellias {Ignoramus).— We have carefully examined the leaves you have sent, and we have no doubt whatever that the glutinous matter on them is caused by insects, and is not an exudation from the plant. When sap globules appear on the foliage of some plants, such as Vines and Azaleas, it is indicative of vigour. The plant from which the leaves and shoot before us were taken is the reverse of vigorous. It has in all probability been allowed to produce too many blooms and become partially exhausted. Its enfeeblement lias been increased by the scale insects appropriating the already insufficient supply of sap. We are almost certain these are very numerous. If the plant is large there are thousands of them, as on the small shoot you fortunately sent we counted ten fine specimens. Closely examine the base of the buds through a magnifier and you will have no difficulty in finding these filthy insects. You say the leaves have been sponged “ thoroughly clean.” That must have been some time ago, and although you may have cleansed the leaves you certainly did not remove the insects from their axils. It is there and in the scales of the buds that they congregate, secreting themselves so as to be almost invisible, except to a sharp and educated eye. In this case you had better dissolve 2 ozs. of soft soap in a gallon of rain water, then add an ounce of petroleum, mixing or incorporating the fluids by violent agitation. Then brush the insecticide well into the axils of the leaves and round the buds and the base of the young growths ; sponge also all the foliage, and give the plant a good syringing, but by some means prevent much of the solution reaching the roots. You had better also repot or top-dress your plant by removing some of the soil and add¬ ing fresh compost to the roots. It must be syringed frequently, kept moist and shaded, and next year should not be allowed to carry so many blooms. The variety generally flowers very freely, and we have known many plants exhausted by the want of timely removal of a number of buds. You had better adopt measures for preventing the insects on the infested plant spreading to other Camellias in the house, or they will soon all be in the same unfortunate condition. Rabbits and Shrubs (G. C. A.).— Your letter shall be answered next week. Thanks for the enclosure. Names of Plants (Rev. A. K. C.).— A small flower of Deubrobium fim- briatum, an East Indian species, which you may grow either in a basket or pot. Bees Dying (T. Williams).— It you had said when you commenced feeding and the quantity of food you gave we could have better understood the case. Our impression is that you did not commence feeding soon enough. Certain it is your bees have been starved to death by want of an adequate supply of proper nourishment. Decayed Comb (Clifton). — If the fallen combs are as you say rotten remove them, and either unite the bees with another stock or feed them well. See Mr. Pettigrew’s article in our present issue. COYENT GARDEN MARKET— April 4TU. Odr market has been a little more active without alteration in prices. Some good new Grapes are to hand. FRUIT. s. d. s. d. f. d. S. d Apples . } sieve 2 0 to 7 0 Grapes . n>. 2 0 to 8 0 . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Lemons . case 10 0 20 0 Apricots . doz. 0 0 0 0 New Grapes .... lb. 8 0 12 0 0 0 0 0 Nectarines . dozeu 0 0 0 0 Chestnuts . bushel 10 0 1*2 0 Oranges . 100 6 0 10 0 Cnrrants, Black. . $ sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 „ Red.... £ sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 1 0 2 0 Figs . dozen 0 0 0 0 dessert . dozen 1 0 2 0 Filberts . lb. 0 0 0 0 Pine Apples, English lb. 1 6 2 0 100 ft- . 0 0 0 0 Raspberries . lb. 0 0 0 0 Gooseberries .... i sieve 0 0 0 0 Strawberries .... oz. 0 6 0 9 VEGETABLES. s d. s. d. s. d. 8. d 2 0 score 1 Otol 6 Asparagus, English bundle 12 0 0 0 Mushrooms . punnet 1 0 1 6 Asparagus, French bundle 25 0 30 0 Mustard* Cress . punnet 0 2 0 8 Beans, Kidney ... mo 2 0 0 0 Onions . bushel 2 3 2 6 Beet, Red . dozen 1 0 2 0 Parsley . doz.bunchts 0 0 4 0 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 1 6 Parsnips . dozen 1 0 2 0 Brussels Sprouts. j sieve 1 6 2 0 Peas . quart 0 0 0 0 Cabbage . dozen 0 6 1 0 Potatoes . cwt. 6 0 7 0 Capsicums . 100 1 6 2 0 Kidney . cwt. 6 0 8 0 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Radishes _ doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 bundle 0 4 0 0 Celery . bundle 1 6 2 0 Salsafy . bundle 1 0 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Scorzonera . bundle 1 6 0 0 Cucumbers . each 0 4 0 8 Seakale . basket 1 0 2 0 Endive . 1 u 2 0 lb. 0 3 0 0 Fennel . bunch 0 3 0 0 Spinach . bushel 3 0 0 0 Herbs . bunch 2 0 0 Tomatoes . lb. 1 6 2 0 Leeks . . bunch 0 8 0 4 Turnips . bunch 0 2 0 3 A 11131 K HOME FARM K ejvssX - a POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. ENSILAGE. ( Continued from page 269.) Although we have stated various points connected with the construction of the silo, yet we may have to remark upon it again further on. We, however, now desire to refer to- the various modes adopted for filling the silo. It is important that every¬ thing be in readiness for the operation before commencing the work. When once filling is commenced the sooner it can be com¬ pleted the better ; for in the case of all green or succulent forage, heating, which must be avoided, will commence immediately the bulk has accumulated, and at the end of each day’s work the covering planks should be put on. In order to show the practical advantages of certain kinds of fodder for ensilage we will first name coarse water meadow grasses, and even sedges, which grow on the edges of the water carriers or banks and borders of brooks and rivers, for these when in full leaf will make useful ensilage. We have often known them cut up with straw in the summer time, mixed and given as chaff to dairy cows, and answer well for producing milk : these April 5, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 289 will therefore when preserved in the silo be available. The next item to be named is Rye, just as it is coming into ear ; in fact it may be followed by a crop of yellow Indian Corn or Maize of the coarse-stalked sorts. The Rye will be ready some time in May, quite soon enough to grow a full crop of Maize afterwards, for it is only required for cutting wThile in full growth, and will produce, when well manured and grown thickly on the land by drilling and hoeing at 18 inches apart, a heavier weight than almost any other crop ; thus the land will yield two full crops of ensilage in the year. We wish, however, here to state that all crops should be cut into chaff as it is put into the silo, for it may then be trodden down quite close, so that when properly weighted at the finish the air may be entirely excluded, which is the first object to be attained. The cutting should be done by either steam or horse power to complete the work as soon as possible. The “chaff ” should be cut about 1 or inch in length and trodden down by a horse or working ox. All kinds of Clover, Rye Grass, Trifolium and aftermath, Vetches, Sainfoin, Peas, or Beans in bloom, or Lucerne and Green Rape — even corn, such as Oats or drege, or any corn crop intended for feeding cattle or horses on the farm, or crops too late to fully ripen, may be profitably utilised and made much more valuable than by any other plan. If the weather sprouts the corn in sheaf and it cannot be harvested in the ordinary way, it may be cut up and stored as ensilage although in damp condition. On this subject Mr. C. A. Kemble reported as follows in the Agricultural Gazette of March 26th last : — “ On September 9th, 1882, I commenced cutting 25 acres of Black Tartarian Oats. Owing to the wet season which followed I was unable to harvest the crop in the usual way. I determined therefore, by way of experiment, to adopt and fill a silo, and fill it with Oat sheaf chaff. I sent my teams into the field on the 6th November, and on that date began to fill the pit, cutting the straw into chaff about 1 inch in length. The Oat sheaves were in a thoroughly sodden condition, and the corn in them had so generally ‘ sprouted ’ that apparently all was worthless except as manure. We continued cutting and filling at intervals, and trod in the final ‘chop ’ on November 11th. Nine loads were cut up in this way, which I estimated at 13£ tons. While filling the pit I carefully mixed with this wet chaff 3 cwt. of salt and 100 lbs. of 1 Simpson’s Spice.’ Having filled the pit I had a layer of dry straw laid on the chaff, then boards fitted over the straw. Again over this I spread layers of sawdust and oak cavings, and placed several tons of freestone on thei^top. This pit was opened on March 14th in the presence of many leading agriculturist1^ amongst whom we noticed Sir John Heron-Maxwell, Bart., oi Springkell, N.B., who, it may be remembered, brought this subject prominently before the meeting of the Royal Agricultural Society of England in December last. After the covering boards, &c., had been removed a very little of the preserved fodder was slightly fusty. Breaking further into the mass a fragrant odour soon pervaded the homestead in which the ex¬ periment was tested, for a hot cloud of vapour escaped from the ensilage, and reminded one by its smell of a newly heated hay¬ rick. An ordinary thermometer was plunged into the mass towards the centre, and registered 110°. Some of the ensilage was immediately carried to cattle and horses, and was readily eaten by them.” This case shows that in a northern climate in the worst of seasons a crop of Oats need not be entirely lost as food for the live stock. It appears from many experiments that the fodder to be stored for ensilage may not only be put into the silo with the morning dew on it, but that it may be sodden with rain, and yet not injure the value of the material when it comes out for feeding purposes when judiciously treated. But the home farmer must remember that so far as ensilage in this country has been attempted it has been under uncertain conditions of storing, and it is therefore better to proceed by way of experiment than to incur heavy cost, at any rate untii as practical farmers we may be more certain of results. In the samples of Trifolium ensilage we have seen there was a peculiar acidity in the odour, the colour being about nut-brown or that of hay moderately heated. From all that we have noticed as to the use of salt strewed over the ensilage during the filling of the pit, this had not injured it, and the cattle and dairy cows ate it readily. It is, however, not yet decided that salt is a necessary application in the silo. We think that at present on many farms the making of hay for sale will hold in check the extent of storing for ensilage ; still it must be viewed as a matter of great consequence in the saving of fodder crops, especially as hay fit for ready sale can only be made in comparatively fine weather. (To be continued.) WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Ilorie Labour. — Having now a farm on hand, some fields left in a couchy state by the outgoing tenant were half ploughed during the winter. On some of this land the rafters have been turned over or reversed, and the land worked fine, much of the couch having been removed, and the land sown with the best Victoria Oats. As these weigh over 45 lbs. per bushel and are very small, only bushels of seed per acre are needed. A dressing of 4 cwt. of corn manure from one of our best artificial manure factories per acre will be given about the second week in April. The land in some parts will not be quite clean after harvest. As, however, these Oats will be ripe before the Wheat, perhaps ten or twelve days earlier, the land will be scarified between the stooks of corn at harvest and sown with stubble Turnips before the sheafed Oats will be carted, the sheaves being removed on to the sown land, in order to complete the sowing of the whole field before carting the crop. In this way for more than forty years we have often grown eighteen sacks per acre ; last year, however, this sort of Oats gave nineteen sacks per acre, and the crop was carted by the end of July, although the general harvest was not an early one. The planting of Magnum Bonum Potatoes should now be com¬ menced if it has not been already begun ; and in order to prevent delay at planting time we fork out some few bunches of couch grass, if any manure is spread in the furrows with the sets, 3 cwt. of Peru guano and 4 cwt. of kainit per acre, mixed with damp ashes or sand if the weather is dry and windy. We plant cut sets, for whole tubers throw too many shoots even when the tubers are small. W e prefer to plant the lines 3 feet apart, and the sets foot apart in the lines. In case the soil be poor gravel or sand we would apply lj cwt. of bone superphosphate per acre between the lines before earthing up. The cultivation for Mangold may now be continued so that the seed can be drilled by the 20th of April. If the land is very dry we drill on the flat, applying artificial manure with the seed, not over 4 cwt. of bone superphosphate with 2 cwt. guano mixed with ashes per acre, and if the land requires more manure apply 2 cwt. nitrate of soda just before the second hoeing when the plants are strong. Hand Labour. — Although the weather has been severe and will delay much of the work that is generally done in the spring, such as felling oak timber and the barking or stripping the trees, mild weather is required to allow of the bark being taken off freely, after which dry weather is necessary for drying the bark. Some men will novv be employed in seeding the Lent corn with Clover seeds, Bennett’s seed barrow being used for the purpose. Where the Wheat is to be sown after the Clover lea we prefer to sow Clovers alone, taking 10 tbs. Red Clover seed and 4 tbs. Alsike as the mixture per acre, without any Rye Grass seed with them, except in case of the hay being required for sale. We then use Rye Grass, as the hay makes in less time and with less risk than when composed of all Clover. It also sells better to town customers. Live Stock. — Unfortunately the foot-and-mouth disease continues to spread in some districts. This is very unfortunate for the farmers, as the closing of the markets prevents in a great measure the natural competition amongst the butchers, to the prejudice of the breeders and feeders. Sheep have done much better during the month of March than previously, but on the water meadows and high pastures the prospect for grass has much diminished since we have experienced the cold cutting winds and snowstorms. With a dry season here¬ after, which seems very probable, food for sheep and cattle may be scarce, although there are generally large stores of roots on many farms. The home farmer will do best to prepare for a dry summer, which will right also if it happens the reverse. It is a singular fact that we have had eight showery and wet seasons in succession, the like of which has not occurred during the present century. If the summer should be ever so dry we ask the home farmer not to be deluded into a false security by feeding sheep on lands which has coathed and rotted them in the wet seasons, for we know some of the finest water meadows in the kingdom which never can be fed by sheep after midsummer without risk of Taking the fluke ; and, again, on the dry parkland pastures, although sheep would not always take the coathe, yet they are sure to deteriorate the turf by eating out the finest sorts of herbage, like White Clover. Breeding sows will now be farrowing, and the young pigs will require care and shelter and 290 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ April 5, 1883. good feeding. They should not generally have much root food, espe¬ cially of Mangold, without meal mixed with the roots cooked by steam. Bottled Milk. — A new milk company has been formed in New York for supplying pure milk delivered in bottles. The cows which furnish the milk are healthy and well fed. They are inspected regularly by veterinary experts, as are also the stables and drinking water, by members of the Board of Health or other suitable persons. The milk is inspected every day to see that the temperature is right, and that it is clean and perfectly sweet. The milk is packed in glass bottles holding a pint or quart, and these are sealed and then sur¬ rounded by ice. The seals are never broken except by the consumer. The price received is 10 cents per quart, while ordinary milk usually retails at 8 cents, though it varies, according to the supply at different seasons, from 6 to 10 cents. Cream is also bottled and sold by the same system at 40 cents per quart. The Secretary of the Company states that except just after a fall of snow it is next to impossible to deliver clean wholesome milk to New York families by the ordinary methods. Most of the milk is sold from 40-quart cans with wide covers, and in retailing it through the street the covers are removed for every quart of milk sold, and while the milk for each customer is being taken out with a long-handled small dipper, the street dust which often fills the air like clouds, is blown into the milk in spite of the best efforts of the milk pedlar. The Company has been organised but a short time, but is gaining the confidence of its customers. The physicians are the best friends of the Company and the enterprise, as they find it is about the only milk they can safely recommend or use freely. — ( American Cultivator.) OUR FOREIGN EGG SUPPLY. per great hundred was remunerative to our French neighbours, or it is not probable that the trade would have increased nearly threefold. It may also be remarked that, with an increased demand and a more certain and well-established market in this country, the price rose rapidly ; and although the next ten years show an average value of only 7s. 1 ^d. per great hundred, the price that in 1870 was only 6«. 1 hcl. was in 1871 7s. 9d. ; in 1S72, 8s. 2f cl. ; in 1873 (the highest average attained), 9s. Of d.\ in 1874, 8s. Ilf d. For the next five years the value remained somewhat stationary, with perhaps a slight tendency to reduction, while the same remark holds good in reference to the number of eggs imported. We can fairly deduce, however, from the figures given above, that our French neighbours must have pocketed very large profits from the egg trade with this country during the last ten or eleven years, and therefore that, if English farmers had given to poultry-farming, or rather to egg-producing, the proper and necessary attention, they would have profited by no small proportion of the money that found its way abroad. It is certainly difficult to see why egg-producing, which is so large a source of profit to our neighbours, should prove itself a source of loss when undertaken by British farmers. From the table given above it appears that fifteen or sixteen eggs are annually imported from France for every head of population in Great Britain ; and if it is taken into consideration that the French do not import any eggs from other countries for their own con¬ sumption, and that they are greater consumers of eggs than the English, probably requiring twenty eggs per head of population, it will at once be seen what an important industry egg-producing is in France. It should be observed that the average price, from year to year, is the price at which eggs are imported into this country. A deduction for profit to several men must be made, and this leaves a greater margin for profit to the producer in this country as against his competitor abroad. We purposely make no mention of the freight from France to London, as this item of expense will be fully compensated by the cost of carriage in England, unless farmers succeed in making special arrangements with the railway companies for quick transit at reduced rates. — ( British Trade Journal.) It is a well-known fact that England is largely dependent upon France, and in a lesser degree upon Belgium and Holland, for her supply of eggs and poultry. The quantity and value of the eggs imported into this country has for years past been increasing rapidly. The table which we give below, compiled from the Board of Trade returns, showing the number and value per great hundred (120) of the eggs received from France alone, will give some idea of the growth of this trade during recent years, and is a conclusive proof, if any be needed, that it is high time the farmers of England began to consider poultry as being a source of profit quite as worthy of their attention as their Shorthorns, Southdowns, or Berkshires. From the Board of Trade returns for March it appears that no less than 199,922,640 eggs, valued at £619,236, were imported into England during the first three months of the year 1882, and tbi3 compares with a total of 170,977,040 eggs, valued at £569,456 received during the same period in 1881. It seems to us that English farmers would have no great difficulty in diverting into their own pockets a large proportion of the considerable sums of money which now find their way across the Channel in payment for the eggs we receive. The table which is annexed goes back to the year 1856, with the view of showing the enormous increase in the importation, and the gradual augmentation in value per great hundred. From 1856 to 1874 inclusive the returns are given for alternate years, and from 1871 to 1879 yearly : — ■ Average Price Number of Eggs Value. per 120. 1856 Imported. 177.230,600 £ 278,422 s. d. .. 5 8 1858 131,685,000 303,617 5 5 1860 167,695,400 478,658 6 11 1862 232,321,200 593,813 .. 6 1 1864 335,298,240 835,028 5 11* 1866 438,878,880 1,105,653 6 0| 1868 383,969,040 1,009,285 6 3 1870 430,842,210 1,102,080 6 1$ 1872 405,701,040 1,394,152 8 2f 1874 538,087,440 2, 913,725 8 11 j 1875 580,212,360 2,078,659 .. 8 7 1876 502,534,800 1,864,135 8 10$ 1877 441,369,920 1,602,038 8 9 1878 448,190,400 1,599,776 8 6] 1879 412,935,720 1,391,609 8 1 A study of this table will show how, with slight variations, the price of eggs per great hundred has gradually risen from year to year. Whereas for the ten years from 1856 to 1864 the average price was 6.?., it rose from 1864 to 1874 to 7s. 1 %d., and during the five years from 1875 to 1879 the average was within a fraction of 8#. Id. It is, we think, fair to assume that the average price of 65. Poultry with Scaly Legs. — I am happy to inform the Editor of the Journal of Horticulture that the remedy which he recommended for the scaly legs of poultry in the paper of Feb. 1st has been quite successful. The scales came off in large pieces, and the legs are now clean and healthy. I am much obliged for the advice. — A. S. [We shall be glad to know whether it is the sulphur or vaseline remedy that has proved efficacious.] OUR LETTER BOX. Incubation ( An Old Reader). — Artificial hatching occupies just the same time as the natural process. For full details of incubators see "POULTRY,” published at this office weekly, price Id. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. Lat. 51° 32' 40” N. ; Long. 0° 8' 0" W. ; Altitude, Ill feet. date. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. Rain. 1883. March. Barome¬ ter at 32« and Sea Level Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. | Temp, of Soil at 1 1 foot. Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Inches. deg. deg. deg. deg deg. deg deg. In. Sun. 2.5 29.817 31.8 S.W. 36.8 44.4 27.2 86.1 23.5 — Mon. 26 2:1.243 32.4 N.W. 37.3 46.2 32.2 92.2 29.4 0.033 Tues. 27 29.510 85.1 33.0 N. 37.7 452 26.3 94.4 23.3 0.010 Wed. 28 30.079 36.3 32.9 N. 37.4 45.8 27.7 94.4 23.9 — Thurs. 29 30.144 42.8 37.4 s. 37.6 48.6 28.4 87.3 24.1 0/38 Friday 30 29.436 46.2 44.8 s. 39.0 52.6 42.') 55.4 37.9 0.1C8 Satur. 31 29.928 40.0 37.4 N.W. 39.5 57.0 32.5 101.4 28.5 — 29.740 38.9 35.7 37.9 48.5 30.9 87.3 27.2 0.189 REMARKS. 25th. — Bright and cold. 26th.— Very fine bright morning ; overcast in afternoon ; thickly falling snow from 4 to 5.30 P.M. 27th— Very cold, frequent shivers of snow, with bright sun at intervals. 28th. — Bright and fine throughout. 29th. — Fine and bright, with much wind and dust. 30th.— Dull and rainy until 5 P.M. ; fine starlight evening ; much warmer. 31st.— Fine, calm, bright day. A fine but rather wintry week. Temperature rather more than 3° above that of the preceding week, but yet about 3° below the average. The last day of the week and of the month was warm and spring-like. G. J. SYMONS. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. April 12, 1883. ] 291 12 th Tn Royal Society at 4.30 P.M. 13th F Quekett Club at 8 P.M. 14th S Royal Botanic Society at 3.45 P.M. 15th SDN 3RD Sunday after EASTER. Ghent International Exhi- 16th M [bition (8 days). 17th TU 18 th W Society of Arts at 8 P.M. EAETH TEMPERATURES. I^HEN treating of bottom beat it is usual to begin by quoting figures which prove that during the growing season the heat of the soil is higher than the air. As this fact is now perfectly well known, it is not necessary to take up space proving what is regarded as a truism. We will, therefore, at once plunge into the subject of bottom heat, and the effect of soil-warmth in promoting the growth of plants. In hot countries the heat of the soil frequently becomes so high as to be absolutely destructive. Under such circumstances cultivators have to keep down earth heat by irrigation, and on a small scale by mulch¬ ing, in order to rescue the land from utter sterility. Unless during exceptionally hot seasons and on thin soils with a hard or rocky substratum underneath, a too high earth temperature is seldom experienced by British gardeners, unless in the cultivation of some few alpines or plants from northern climes. Generally speaking, it is want of heat that we in our northern latitude suffer from, and especially so in those dis¬ tricts where clouds prevail and the sun seldom reaches through to warm the cold earth below. Increase of bottom heat is equal to increase of air heat ; but while glass houses or sheltering walls and plantations have to be erected at considerable cost in order to secure a higher air temperature, higher earth temperature may be secured by applying the facts which science has discovered, and which cost us little. It is well known that dark surfaces absorb heat, while white surfaces reflect it. Acting on this, we in 1882 darkened the surface of half of the space wherein our earliest batch of Potatoes grew, and also part of our Onion beds. The Potatoes in our darkened section were fully a week earlier than those grown on the un¬ darkened part. The soil was a brown loam. On ordinary garden soil, deeply darkened because much humus is present, such artificial darkening would not, of course, have an equal effect. In the case of the Onions the crop was very superior, not so much in weight as in ripeness and quality, to the portion grown on the undarkened part. But other means were taken to keep up the earth heat, which will presently be men¬ tioned. Had the season been at all an average one the results would have doubtless been even more marked. As it was there was remarkably little sun¬ shine after June. The last time that Tomatoes were grown out of doors here was in 1878. The climate is against their doing well. In that year all were grown on a border raised 1 foot by means of bricks — experiments the year before having shown the advantage of raised soil. Half of this border was darkened by impalpable char¬ coal dust, and half left au nature l. ■ Charcoal dust (moulders’ black used in ironfounding) was used in¬ stead of soot to guard against error ; the use of soot, though securing the absorption of sun heat, having proved too stimulating and causing a luxuriance that was likely to be attributed to a wrong cause. Even common coal dust we have found effective. The plants grown in the darkened soil ripened fruit eleven days earlier than those under natural circumstances, and produced nearly double the crop, for the others failed to swell all they set — the early autumn frosts stopped them. The year before, on the same place, half were planted on the level ground, half on soil raised 1 foot. The year 1877 was extremely wet and sunless in this locality, but even the little sun we had warmed the raised border so that the plants benefited considerably, although no ripe fruit was got from either batch. The extra warmth, however, caused a healthier growth, and the plants produced a few green fruits, those on the flat remaining stunted and fruitless. On cold clays advanced gardeners have long practised planting fruit trees on raised mounds, experience having proved that better ripened wood and increased quantities of better fruit are thereby secured. The reason is that such mounds acquire a higher temperature than the soil on the flat. We think this fact has not been recognised in all its bearings, or raised borders would be more frequently seen. In these days, when root- cultivation is well understood and generally practised, it would be well worth while planting wall trees at least on borders raised out of the cold bottom to where the sun would early supply the earth with much-needed heat. Especially in the case of trees on dwarfing stocks or as cordons could this be done, as such require borders of no great dimensions. Barren cankered trees have been cured of their disease, and their barrenness replaced by fertility, by simply having their roots lifted out of the cold under soil and placed near the warmer surface. Dr. Lindley, quoting from the Memoirs of the Caledonian Horti¬ cultural Society, in his “ Theory of Horticulture,” mentions a case of this kind. Mr. Reid of Balcarras cured cankered trees by taking their roots out of soil which at 3 feet deep was during the summer months 44°, at 18 inches 50°, at 9 inches 57°, and at 6 inches 61°. In a raised border where the soil was dark we, ten years ago, found a thermometer indicate 67Q 6 inches from the surface ; near by, on the level, it was only 59°. The border, it should be added, had a slope of 25° or thereby. Such figures show that it is throwing away natural heat to make vinery or other borders on the ground level, flat, and 8 feet deep. Rather would we recommend raised borders with a slope to the sun, shallow, and roots close to the sur¬ face. Such would cost much less, for excavation would be saved, and less soil necessary. Indeed, as we shall show further on, it would enable us to keep cooler atmospheres, and that means less coal, less labour, and fewer insects. Earth heat may be considerably increased by cutting off the cold under soil from the warmer upper. In our district it is labour lost in ordinary seasons to put Vegetable Marrows out as is done with success in the i i I i i i No 146.— Vol. VI., Third Series. No. 1802.— VOL. LXIX., OLD SERIES. 292 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ April 12, 1883. sunnier south. Even on sun- warmed raised borders they seldom do well ; but when a foot of fresh stable- yard manure is put under the upper foot of' soil success, even in such woeful years as last (1882), is nearly cer¬ tain. Six plants of Muir’s New Hybrid were last year planted on the level and nursed for a month under handglasses. They never bore a fruit, though pinched and trained as carefully as Melons. The earth heat was never over 57p. Six on a raised vinery border with a good slope bore twenty-nine fruits, although the spot was more exposed than in the first instance. The earth heat reached and remained some time at 61Q,but was not over 59° till August (June and July were very wet), and none ripened. Only nine reached full size. In a position more exposed than either of the other two, six other plants were placed out on a border raised 1 foot by that thickness of very fresh hot stable litter under the soil. This material was laid flat 8 feet wide, 1 foot under the surface. Four days after — the weather was very bright then and also hot (18th May) — the plunged thermometer stood at 72°, a month after it was (37°, and at that it remained till the end of August. What it was in September I was too ill to ascertain, but in October it was still 60°, and that after a peculiarly sunless season. But, in fact, by July the heat was protected by the covering foliage. The pro¬ duce was, up till September, forty-five fully grown fruits, many of which in a very bad year and on an exposed spot in a peculiarly exposed late locality, ripened. After August the gathered produce was as my man expressed it, “ a big barrowful,” some of which were being used in February, and all this because of extra bottom heat alone ; this heat being secured for only a little trouble, the manure remaining being as good as at the beginning, for it was never wet enough to lose its virtue. No doubt the raising of the border con¬ tributed to the result, and also the heat in the manure when first buried. This raised the heat at once. The non-conducting nature of the material and the thick leafy covering preserved it, and this made all the difference between a moderately good crop in a season and in a locality where without such assistance the plants only cumbered the ground. The use of blacking might have secured a degree or two more, for when this was tried on French Beans the plants produced a moderate crop of beans by the third week in August ; without it they only produced half-formed pods, which never came to be of any use at all, they were so late, so stunted, and tough. Very much may be done to secure a higher earth temperature than natural by the use of coverings. By covering at night the surface of a 14-inch pot, plunged in ashes with dried sphagnum at one time and sawdust at another, the soil maintained a temperature of 63° through July and August. One exposed at night was barely G0°. Mr. Thomson of Drumlanrig mentions the following striking instance of how earth heat may be preserved. In October he covered a vinery border with 18 inches of wheat straw laid on like thatch. At midwinter the earth heat was 60°. An uncovered border was as low as 40°. The difference to the plants, supposing both to be forced into growth, would be very considerable. The sap feeding the one would be 20° below that of the other. Under such conditions the one would do welJ, the other might fail — and failure from such a cause has resulted before now. Watering tends to lower earth temperatures : rain has the opposite effect. This may seem a paradox. Watering is only resorted to during drought. But under such conditions the water applied evaporates rapidly, and there is nothing that lowers the temperature of the soil so rapidly as evaporation. But when rain falls the atmosphere is saturated, and evaporation proceeds slowly or even not at all. Then we must remember that heat descends slowly. It is this fact which accounts for the coldness of the under soil. Heat inclines to ascend. But when rains falls in the summer it carries heat down into the soil. It changes the air in the soil, too, by displacing it. As the rain afterwards leaves the soil, warm air follows. Thus rain warms, and artificial watering cools, the soil. This fact is taken advantage of by those who find their climate too hot for the particular plants they cultivate. Watering, for this and other reasons, should not be indulged in unless absolutely necessary. Many check all growth by their perpetual dribblings. After watering, as soon as the soil is dry enough, means should be taken to preserve not only the water but the earth heat by checking evaporation. In hot seasons short grass, manure, leaf soil, cocoa-cut fibre, &c., may be employed as a mulching. But even a hoeing, in order to produce a loose layer of surface soil, will do much to check evaporation, while it will allow sun heat to pass on. In the case of many tender plants this is a very important matter. Draining raises earth temperature. Soil that is wet is also cold. Instead of using sun heat to raise its temperature it employs it to evaporate the water. Wet soils are always cold, and a plant on a cold soil draws up cold sap, which keeps the plant cold no matter what the air heat may be. Nay, a watery diet produces even a greater degree of cold, for, in order to get rid of the superfluous water in the over¬ diluted food, the plant must evaporate more than is necessary, and thereby renders itself colder still. It is this that makes corn on wet land late. Draining, then, is of paramount importance, for thereby the soil is warmed, the sap plants draw up warmed, and this is seen to be as good as an increase of air heat for the plants. Corn, vegetables, fruit mature sooner and improve in quality as they do when transplanted to a better climate. We spoke of the better Onions that we raised by darkening the soil, and hinted that another method was used to promote a higher ground temperature. That other method was to keep the surface soil con¬ stantly stirred with the hoe, especially after being battered by rain. Even in such a sunless year as last the results were markedly superior ; but in sunny years we have even seen a greater difference. In the application of bottom heat by means of hot water or fermenting material sometimes too much is given. It is necessary to guard against this. Often Seakale and Asparagus are “ drawn ” so much as to be useless by too much bottom heat. A safe rule is to keep within 5° of the earth heat in the warmest summer month outside for most hardy plants. But “ drawing ” is not always an evil. In the case of forced Lily of the Valley, for instance, drawing is systematically practised. The earth is a vast storehouse of heat. By cover¬ ings much of the heat thus stored might be utilised. To some extent this is already done. By mulchings of manure Boses are protected. Many tender herba- April 12, 1883 ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 293 ceous and lowly alpines are kept at a temperature much above that of the air by coverings of cocoa-nut fibre, leaf mould, or even ashes. These are all, more or less, good non-conductors, especially when kept dry ; but it is here many protecting materials fail. Perhaps the best article ever heard of is the waste of flax — pob it is called. For mulching, covering frames, Potato pits, water pipes, few things equal it, for it is hardly possible to make it wet. Such acts by keeping the compara¬ tively warmer earth separated from the much colder air, just as the layer of litter in summer kept the different temperatures of the upper and under soil apart, and prevented the one neutralising the other. All act as protectives by conserving the earth heat. — Single- handed. (To be continued.) TEE GLADIOLUS. There would seem to exist some wish to enforce the Cloture in respect of difficulties and failure in the culture of Gladioli, and a desire to have expression given in your pages only to what can be said in their favour ; but that this is a case in which “speech is silvern, silence golden,” I utterly fail to see. Those who write of deterioration and loss are charged with discouraging the cultivation of the Gladiolus. I beg leave to view the honest opinions of those who have fairly tested this unrivalled flower in quite another light. To be forewarned is to be forearmed, and in any speculation where such warning is founded on incontrovertible facts it ought to be courted rather than suppressed. Then let such as wish to prosecute inquiry do so at their own hazard, and time will show whether they are of the category of the wise who profit by the ex¬ perience of others, or if they come to acknowledge themselves of another class who purchase wisdom, and that dearly, by their own. With no other object than to record the ex¬ perience gleaned during another year from my own efforts and from observation of those of several others, I ask space for these remarks. I shall nothing exaggerate, nothing conceal, and will advance no statement that I cannot substantiate. “ How well your Gladioli have done this year 1” was more than once remarked to me last autumn. When I replied that in no respect had they done better, but in a very material one worse than for the last seven years, I stated bare truth. The small stands that were not a little admired at two of: our lead¬ ing exhibitions were shown without much room for selection, as my plants were just coming into flower. I had to destroy the balance of the former by introducing perforce a weak spike of La Perle, a variety at its best, as I have yet seen it, unworthy of being staged with those it accompanied. The second and larger lot could have been more weighty had I availed myself of the duplicates allowed by the schedule. About one-fourth of my limited stock never appeared above ground, and the blanky beds were an eyesore the whole season, receiving on that account less attention than I usually bestow on them. Then going off, as usual, at all stages, the roots of those I exhibited in not a few cases among the others, I was left with little over half the number I planted. So no inconsiderable outlay has been incurred to raise my total to something ap¬ proaching what I had twelve months ago. But this cannot be maintained. It may do for those who regularly allow a liberal sum annually for Gladioli, but it is impossible for those of limited means to face the inevitable drain if they would keep up a select stock of even a moderate size. While looking on at the sale of Dr. Paterson's Orchids in Edinburgh, a gentle¬ man unknown to me touched me on the shoulder, remarking, “ If you would go in for some of these, and grow them as well as you do your Gladioli, you would find them a much more profitable investment.” Once and again the Doctor himself has made the same observation to me. And it is true. What I have expended on Gladioli, which have completely disappeared, would have gone far towards erecting and sufficiently stocking a considerable Orchid house. A useful structure at least would have been to the fore where nothing remains. We have had irrefutable evidence on these lines from the southern part of the island. 1 think I can without undue assumption speak for the north. My neighbour, whom I have before credited with being second to no one I know as a cultivator of this flower, has again suffered less loss on the whole than I. But few, cer¬ tainly no one less ardently in lore with the Gladiolus, would in his circumstances expend over and over again upon it what he has done, this season being no exception. We had both resolved to practise restraint, and again have we succumbed to the syren’s wiles. He no less emphatically than myself de¬ nounces the folly of any friend entering upon a speculation where the ultimate result is certain loss. For, whatever may be the case in a more favoured part of these islands, I plainly assert such loss as certain in Scotland. How do facts bear me out ? I know of gardens where large collections have entirely disappeared, and not a few where they are rapidly doing so. But three weeks ago I saw the remains, grown small by degrees and beautifully less both in number and size, of an extensive lot, comprised in two small boxes, and this where cultural skill is not wanting in tke numerous departments of a large establishment. I can point to a case in another part of the country where the stock was relegated to the garden borders, and not many were to be seen there. In both these cases full facilities for ripening off the corms, as has been recommended in the Journal, are at command. I cannot say whether the recommendation was put into practice or not. In my short notice of a nursery lately the omission of a few words made my mention of the Gladioli misleading. I wrote : “ I was not at all surprised to find a collection of Gladioli telling their usual and unvarnished tale.” The remaining few were indeed on their last legs, and shrunk shanks these were, the one weak point in fact in an establishment strong everywhere else. The collection of a model cottage gardener near me, comprising among others of a better class such sorts as Isabella, La Fiancee, Madame Furtado, Queen Victoria, that will not now do for competing stands, has last season all but succumbed. A house in the trade to which we used to look for our best corms has struck them out altogether. I know personally no amateur in Scotland but my friend here, and I have heard of none who has persistently kept up the losing struggle for eleven years, and no one but myself for fully half that time, whose collec¬ tion embraces the very best of the old and a good many of the newer varieties. I do not think that I shall follow so long on the present terms. And when, in the face, of such facts, one is told, as one of your most esteemed correspondents and myself were last year, of a stock that by “perpetuation of the corms” had gone on increasing for years in succession — such in¬ crease, for reasons it matters not what, was not then there to be seen — I acknowledge that there is made a demand stronger than I can meet for the exercise of that virtue which believeth all things. Two extensive collections I am acquainted with — that of Mr. Campbell, nurseryman, Gourock, and that at Newfieid, Kilmarnock, the residence of Wm. Finnie, Esq. Mr. Campbell and Mr. Gray (gardener at Newfieid) were the successful com¬ petitors at our leading shows last season, as they have been for years. But neither of these will maintain the “ perpetuation ” doctrine. Mr. Campbell’s stock last year embraced fully two thousand flowering plants ; Mr. Gray’s somewhere about the same number Both are raisers of capital seedlings now in commerce. The Mrs. Finnie and the Sir Garnet Wolseley of the latter gentleman were prominent in his grand stands at Edin¬ burgh. Sir Garnet is one of the best flowers I know, splendid in shape, faultlessly smooth in the edge, and long in spike. Many other fine seedlings I saw in flower when I had the pleasure of visiting Newfieid last autumn, and seedlings and bulblets were growing everywhere, even on the benches in the houses where handfuls of soil had been left containing minute cormlets that had escaped the sieve, and, as I was told, in the adjoining woods where refuse soil had been cast. A passion for Gladioli exists at Newfieid ; as many as one hundred spikes had been cut just before my visit for the decoration of the mansion. I refrain from entering upon some interesting de¬ tails. Such an enthusiasm is well supported by Mr. Gray, JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 294 [April 12, 1883. whose ripe experience enables him to grow his bulblets by thousands promiscuously, and with facility to name them accurately as they flower. Mr. Campbell’s seedlings Duke of Leinster, Duchess of Leinster, and Provost Binnie are also sent out. I beliei'e they are of very high merit. The recommenda¬ tion of the raiser is sufficient to all who have the pleasure of knowing him. I hope to see them and Mrs. Finnie in my own garden this year. 1 was surprised to see in his grounds at Cove Gardens somewhere about half a hundred vigorous plants of my favourite Ondine, and about as many of the charming variety Marquis of Lothian, all raised from bulblets. Allow here a slight divergence. Of the English varieties I flowered last year Agnes Mary, Cymbeline, Duchess of Edin¬ burgh, Flora, Hesperia, Jessica, Marica, Miss Salway, Mrs. Kynartin Mainwarey, Pictum (one of the most useful), Queen Mary and Una, Earl Russell, James Kelway, and some others I have had some seasons, but have never seen, nor do I now hope to see them, in perfection, if at all, from the corms I have, as they have commenced that decrease in size which unmistakeably announces waning energy, and sooner or later an inevitable farewell. — A Northern Amateur. (To be continued.) THE GARDEN WATER SUPPLY. If I were asked, What is the general rule as to watering garden crops ? I should feel bound to answer, Just enough water is given to prevent actual suffering from drought ; anything beyond this is an exceptional effort for a special purpose. If my querist were to go farther and ask, Do you consider the general prac¬ tice satisfactory ? I must again reply, Decidedly not ; and the well-known fact of a free quick growth being a chief factor in the development of all culinary vegetables, and which is only imparted by abundant moisture in a fertile soil, gives weight to my answer. For stronger evidence patent to everyone we have only to revert to the wonderful growth of vegetables in the Avet summer of last year, and as a farmer I may add the equally satisfactory fact of a double crop of hay and root crops of extraordinary abundance. But perhaps it is in an unusually hot dry summer that the inadequate supply of water to the requirements of so many gardens is shown most clearly ; stunted growth, premature running to seed, mildew, tough flaccid flavourless vegetables that ought to be crisp, succulent, and sweet ; crops of such brief duration that serious intervals occur in the supply which it is the pride of all good gardeners to maintain fully of every vegetable in its season. In striving to remedy this unsatisfactory condition of things the two mcst important points are ample means for the storage of water and suitable facilities for its subsequent distribution. Chemists teach us that water exposed to the air absorbs fer¬ tilising gases suitable for the food of plants, and common sense tells us that water warmed by the summer sun is much better for plants than cold spring water fresh drawn from a well or pump. It should therefore always be stored in an open tank or pond sufficiently elevated to admit of its being con¬ veyed through pipes to convenient points of the garden. When I began making the garden at Oldlands it was at first proposed to obtain water by a branch connection with the main pipe conveying spring water to the house from a reservoir some 50 or GO feet above the highest part of the garden site ; but eventually I was able to make a pond im¬ mediately below the reservoir to catch the waste water which I found escaping by soakage from a group of springs surround¬ ing it, and thus obtained an abundant independent supply, which is taken to all parts of the garden through an iron main pipe 1 inch in diameter with suitable branches and hydrants. Enough 2-ply indiarubber hose in lengths of 60 feet was procured to reach every part of the garden, with suitable brass unions for screwing together and upon the hydrants, and a copper pipe with a tap, jet, and rose for the watering, and I thought my arrangements complete. For a time all went well, one man doing the work of half a dozen, and the newly planted fruit trees and shrubs grew so freely and well as to repay the outlay for hose in a single season. But after a couple of seasons’ wear the hose was cracked and split in several places, and the conviction grew upon me that the extra 1(M. per foot which would have purchased the leather hose would have been a wise outlay at first. Gladly do I give your readers the benefit of this little item of dearly bought experience, in order that they may avoid my inevitable vexation, for the indiarubber hose soon became useless. The other exception to what has proved an otherwise satis¬ factory apparatus is the failure of the taps. This is owing partly to pressure and partly to silica disturbed by rain and remain¬ ing suspended in the water for a long time after every disturb¬ ance. Now silica, however microscopical in size, is nevertheless quartz crystals, and its wearing action upon the tap soon becomes apparent in a slight dripping of water, which in¬ creases very much in proportion to the frequency with which the tap is used, and sooner or later it becomes useless. At first grinding the worn shaft of the tap with emery powder Avas tried, but the remedy was so brief in its duration that new taps soon had to be resorted to. After trying many sorts brass plumber’s cocks have been selected as best. They are bought with a screwed end for screwing into the iron pipe, so that a new tap can always be put on in a few minutes by any of the workmen. A stock of the various sizes is always kept in readiness, as a leakage in a dry summer among the thirty taps in constant use is a serious matter. The average price of the taps may be given at about 6s. I have given these particulars about the hose and taps for the assistance of beginners, who are frequently at a loss in such matters. It is not every garden that is so fortunately situated in re¬ lation to its water supply as this is, But there is none for which suitable arrangements cannot be made which in almost every instance would prove to be quite as much in the interest of employer as of the gardener. Storage of water and facility of watering means saving of labour as well as benefit to crops. It has been the writer’s lot to have a full experience of waterbarrels drawn by horses or men ; deep wells requiring two men at the pump that with a little outlay for horse gear might have been profitably worked by horses standing idle in the stable ; waterpots carried throughout the whole of a long hot summer’s day by “ all hands,” all for want of a moderate ex¬ penditure in the first instance when the garden Avas made. On the other hand admirable arrangements have been met witli. Gardens in fiat low-lying districts have had rain Avater stored in raised cisterns or ponds sufficiently elevated for its distribution through pipes. Such ponds are readily made above the com¬ mon level by puddling the soil excavated for the raised banks Avherever it is suitable, and most soils, excepting gravel or sand, make good tenacious puddle. Excellent dams containing a large proportion of silica have been made for several ponds made here Avithin the last feAv years ; or a strong spring of Avater has been turned to account by pumping it into a cistern close by, Avhence it flowed to loAver open cisterns made about the garden. For many gardens on hills the hydraulic ram is a great boon. Many scientific books profess to explain its value and use, but most of them rather puzzle than assist an ordinary inquirer. In the “ Gardener’s Year Book ” for 1877 Dr. Hogg gave a \yery clear and useful account of it. He said, “ This is an in¬ vention which has been in use for a great number of years, and, because few people understand it, it is not as much in use as it ought to be. It often happens that though a spring of Avater cannot be obtained near a house, one is found at a lower level. The question then is, Hoav is the Avater to be raised to the high level Avith the least possible trouble and expense ? It is in such cases that the ‘ Avater ram 7 is of invaluable use. It can be put to work in any place where a fall of water of 1 foot or upwards from a stream, brook, or spring can be obtained. It Avill force Avater to a vertical height equal to from twenty to thirty times the height of the fall, drive the Avater to any horizontal distance Avhich may be required, and work day and night without any a tention Avhatever.” — Edward *Luckhurst. Books for Young Gardeners. — Several eminent men have been criticising the actions of young gardeners in your paper for several Aveeks past ; may I remark that I think it would be more useful to have given them something for their benefit ? We want to know the best books on gardening and botany, chemistry and drawing, and the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. April 12, 1883. ] 295 best instruments for the same, and the cheapest places for purchasing. If there are black sheep in our flock, the white ones will willingly accept any advice offered that will be of substantial value. — G-. A. B., a Foreman . NICOTIANA AFFINIS. This attractive relative of “the fragrant weed” is fast becoming a great favourite with all who have learnt its character, and that it will still further grow in popularity cannot be doubted, as its qualities are not at present fully known. For beds and borders during the summer it is very useful, flowering most profusely, and yielding in the evening a most pleasant fragrance that can be perceived at a considerable distance. Another method, how¬ ever, which Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons adopt at Swanley, deserves special notice, as it greatly increases the utility of the plant. Seed is sown in September, and the young plants so obtained are potted singly and grown on to flower during March, April, and May, at which time they prove most useful for conservatory decoration, their large white sweetly scented flowers being greatly appreciated. Indeed, by successive sowings of seed probably plants could be had in flower nearly all the year. They are easily grown, a rich light compost of turfy loam, leaf soil, sand, and well- decayed manure suiting them, and abundance of water is needed, so that it is advisable to drain the pots carefully. As regards the origin of this plant there is a little mystery. English horticulturists are in¬ debted to W. Cullingford, Esq., Phillimore Gar¬ dens, Kensington, for its introduction ; and he, it is said, obtained the seed from Hyeres, and there the history ends, for we have no reliable information as to its native country or when it first appeared in cultivation. PROFITABLE POTATO-GROWING. I see by the letter of “Single-handed” on page 238 that my remarks about the Potato fungus have not been quite understood by him. I could not, of course, go much into detail on the form sent, but I shall be pleased to afford further information. A short time ago Messrs. Sutton published a statement of the cost of cultivating an acre of Potatoes, showing as a result of the operation a considerable profit. I do not wish to discourage anyone from growing Potatoes — quite the reverse ; but instances have come to my knowledge, and have been practically experienced by myself, where the profits have fallen short of those mentioned by Messrs. Sutton, and some¬ times the grower has experienced a loss. There are several things to be taken into con¬ sideration in Potato culture. In the first place the grower, if a beginner, should only have two or three acres, for there is generally something to learn in the cultivation of a new crop, and then there is the difficulty of marketing a large quan¬ tity of Potatoes. A grower who has a connection and knows where to place his crop has an advan¬ tage over one who does not, and if he lives near a large town and has a retail connection he is still better off. Then there is the disease to be con¬ sidered. I find that by confining my growth to Early Rose and Magnum Bonum I avoid the dis¬ ease altogether — at least, for all practical pur¬ poses. In my experimental ground in 1881 I had four sacks of Early Rose Potato and no disease whatever, and ten sacks of Magnum Bonum and only three diseased tubers, and last year the result was pretty much the same. I watch the Early Rose, and dig up before they are much injured, and the Magnum Bonum I am not afraid of. Not much manure is used, ana that I pre¬ fer put on in the autumn. That is the right way for garden cultivation, but I am in doubt about it for field cultivation. The land round Cirencester is not by any means rich, and would not grow the crop mentioned by Messrs. Sutton without help. I will now make a comparison of the probable result of the cropping of two cultivators, A and B. We will suppose that A spends altogether £25 an acre in rent, taxes, and cost of cultiva¬ tion, &c., and that his crop is 5 tons. Now if he sells his Potatoes at £5 a ton only he makes no profit, and supposing he by economy keeps down the expenses a little there is but a small margin of profit. I am supposing that he uses ten loads of farmyard manure. Now suppose B, instead of ten loads of farmyard manure, uses twenty and spends £2 an acre on artificials, and by that means produces a crop of 8 tons. He will have three more tons for sale, value £15, out of which deduct £4 10s. for the extra manure, and he will have a profit of £10 10s. an acre, which I think he ought in a general way to get. I am supposing that only Magnum Bonum and other disease-resisting kinds are grown. In my remarks a short time ago in the Journal I said that a person, like B, who grows his Potatoes with a large quantity of manure, ought not to plant any of them in the following year, because the mycelium of the fungus will be very likely to be largely developed in them, and tend if planted to materially injure the prospects of a crop in the following year. The myce¬ lium of the fungus is often present when the Potato apparently has nothing the matter with it, but such Potatoes are apt to have a diseased germ and throw out a diseased shoot in the following spring or early summer, and so spread the disease. Potatoes may have the mycelium of the fungus in them and yet be perfectly wholesome ; they are not what is called diseased, but merely have the seeds of disease in them. It is a common remark, “ Ob, my Potatoes were all right when I dug them up, but they went off afterwards.” This is to a certain extent a figure of speech. The mycelium of the fungus is present in all such cases when the Potatoes are dug up, and large quantities of them are consumed under such circumstances, but they are not injurious. Ihe culti¬ vator should grow the Potatoes which he intends to plant the following year in another field without much manure, or send to a nurseryman for them. — Frederick Bravender, Tlic Firs, Cirencester. Fine Cineraria Blooms.— An idea seems to have become some¬ what prevalent in many localities that the finest strains of many Fig. 71.— NICOTIANA AFFINIS. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 296 [ April 12, 1883. florist’s flowers, especially Cinerarias, are only to be obtained from the continent. I have seen many proofs in England, Ireland, and France too, to the contrary ; the latest being some really fine Cinerarias, a few days since, in the conservatory of Mrs. Malcolmson, Minella Gardens, near this town. A gentleman amateur, of more than local fame, at the time measured some of them, and found them a little over S inches in diameter — in size, form, colour, and substance the finest strain I had ever seen — obtained from a noted English firm. One, especially, with the pure white eye of March Past, certificated by the Royal Horticultural Society, but magenta crimson, was very notable. — W. J. M., Clonmel. MAKING AND RENOVATING LAWNS. ( Continued from page 273.') Although laying turf and sowing seeds have been adverted to, it is necessary to refer more particularly to draining the ground and preparing the soil. The beauty of a lawn consists in the even¬ ness of its surface and the richness of its verdure. This latter can only be produced in well-drained soils. Where there is water in the subsoil, whether that be stiff or sandy, drains must be pro¬ vided for carrying it off. For most soils drains 30 inches deep are ample, and their distance apart will need to be determined by the “ drawing ” power of the soil. If the soil be a stiff clay 12 feet will be suitable, and if such be intermingled with stones 3 feet greater distance will suffice, whilst where the subsoil is sandy or of a porous nature 18 to 21 feet distance apart will meet every requirement of the case. Two-inch pipes are the smallest that should be used, and 3-inch are in every way preferable from the drains being longer serviceable. It is essential that the mains be correspondingly larger, and all have proper falls and outlets. The next most important consideration in mailing a lawn is to have the soil of an even depth throughout, so that the grass may be marked by regularity of growth. If in forming an even sin-face it be necessary to take some parts down and till up others, the top soil should in each case be first removed and laid aside in order that it may be again returned after the inequalities are rectified, the bad soil being taken out from the hills and put at the bottom in the hollows. This is not always done— the good soil where the hills were is not 3 inches deep if that, and in the hollows it is as many feet, and then it is wondered why the lawn should be so patchy — a bright green in some places, and so brown and poor in others. Hungry subsoil should never be spread near the surface for a lawn. In the matter of improving the texture of the soil a few remarks only will be made. Soil of a heavy tenacious nature would be much improved by an admixture of ashes, lime, brick, or other rubbish, incorporating it evenly with the soil as deeply as that is moved. If the soil not only be of a heavy nature but be thin with solid clay under it, it would be advisable to have as much of the clay burned as practicable, first removing the good soil and laying it aside, then removing the clay for burning, and before putting on the good soil loosen the clay below that removed for burning, and ■when the latter is effected spread it on the surface and mix it evenly with the soil by forking over a few times in dry weather only. This will be an enduring improvement, affording a better growth of grass, and in every sense a more satisfactory lawn. Where the soil is of a poor sandy or gravelly character a good coating of clay or marl, a hundred cartloads per acre not being too much, spread on evenly and allowed to be acted on by frost will fall, and be in a fit state for mixing with the soil to the depth of about a foot. This will render the soil more moisture-holding, and contribute to the staying power of the grass in a dry time, and impart at all times a fresher appearance. Except limestone soils there are few that would not be improved by a dressing of lime, which maybe given at the rate of 4 to 6 tons per acre, and should not be dug in, but after being spread should only be harrowed or pointed in lightly with a fork, for it will sink quickly enough without being put down deeply at the commence¬ ment. If the soil be poor a good dressing of manure will help on the growth of the grass and secure its speedy establishment by encouraging a good root growth. — G. Abbey. ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY’S SPRING SHOW. This was held on April 4th and 5th, with extended and liberal prizes, proving one of the best this Society has held at this season. The weather was favourable, so that we may hope the receipts were satisfactory. The schedule is divided into eight sections, five of which are for gardeners and amateurs, two for trade growers, and one for foreign exhibitors. The general arrangement of the Show was much lighter in appearance than in former years. This has been attained through the simple and natural plan of arranging all the larger plants in groups on the floor of the building, while keeping stages for the smaller plants, cut flowers, and fruits. Plants. — We have merely noted those exhibits which were of some merit, some of the plants shown, such as Wallflowers, Polyanthuses, Auriculas, Gueldtes Roses, and Lilacs, being of the poorest description. In the class for a table of plants, 20 feet by 5 feet, only two competitors met, that of Mr. R. Grossart, gardener to Mr. Buchanan, Oswald Road, Edinburgh, being easily first. This was lightly arranged with Palms, Dracmnas, and other fine-foliage plants, Orchids in variety. The edges of the table were relieved with alternate plants of Isolepis gracilis, Maidenhair, and variegated Panicum, all of which would have been of great effect had they been a little larger. For a table of hardy spring-flowering plants, 10 feet by 5 feet, Mr. C. Smith, gardener to Mr. Wilson, Restalrig House, Edinburgh, occupied the premier position, staging a great variety of Primroses, Iris reticulata, Daffodils, Anemones, and others. For six Azalea indica Mr. J. Patterson, gardener to Mr. Syme, Millbank, was first with neat well-grown plants. The sorts were Model, Due de Nassau, Duchesse de Nassau (2), Iveryana, and Roi Leopold. Mr. Paul, Gilmore Place, Edinburgh, was second with specimens not nearly so well flowered. The same exhibitors were successful for two and one specimen Azalea respectively. There was good competition for prizes offered for plants in 8-inch pots, but in no case were the specimens good. For eight stove or greenhouse plants, distinct sorts, six at least to be in flower, and not more than two Azaleas, Mr. Paul took the first place ; a good Anthurium Scbertzerianum, a couple of fair Azaleas, a very large and well-bloomed Phajus Wallichii, an Amaryllis Johnsonii, and a Countess of Haddington Rhododendron, were the more telling plants. For four stove and greenhouse plants, the plants staged were small, the first-prize lot of Mr. McLure, gardener to Mr. Milne, Toulty, Granton, being fresh and well-flowered. For six Rhododendrons in pots or tubs, and in the corresponding prizes for three and one plant respectively, some good specimens were con¬ tributed, Mr. R. Grieve, gardener to Miss Falconer, Falcon Hall, being first for six ; and Mr. T. Donald, gardener to Mr. Younger, Grange Loan, Edinburgh, first for three. For four Cape Heaths Mr. J. Patterson was first with small though well-bloomed specimens, Mr. J. McCormick being first in the class for three of the same. We come now to the Orchids, which filled a large table, and formed one of the features of the Exhibition. The prizes for these might be advantageously increased without any extravagance, as only 80s. were offered for six plants as first prize, 40s. for three, and 20s. for one. For the six plants Mr. Priest, gardener to the Marquis of Lothian, Newbattle, Edinburgh, gained the first place, the most prominent plants being a Yanda tricolor with six spikes, a large plant of Dendrobium fimbriatum var., and a good panful of Mas- devallia Lindeni. Mr. Paul was the only other exhibitor, and staged good masses of Cymbidium eburneum with about a score of blooms, a large mass of Coelogyne cristata, and a Cymbidium Lowianum with three lengthy spikes. For three Orchids Mr. Curror, gardener to Mr. Douglas, Eskbank, took first ; and for one Orchid Mr. Grossart had the same position with an enormous mass of Coelogyne cristata about 4 feet across. Prizes were offered for six Pitcher-plants, but we could find no trace of these in the Show. Several distinct prizes were offered for Ferns, the most important being for six exotic Ferns, not more than one each of Gleichenia, Adiantum, or Tree Fern. Most of these were poor, but for three Gleichenias Mr. Paul staged three good and large examples of G. semi-vestita, G. dicarpa, and G. flabellata. Mr. W. Anderson, Pilrig Buildings, Edinburgh, staged three good Filmy Ferns, for which the first prize was awarded. These were Tricho- manes radicans, T. reniforme, and Todea superba. The same exhi¬ bitor took first honours for six British Ferns in 6-inch pots with remarkably healthy examples of Trichomanes radicans, Hymeno- phyllum tunbridgense, Asplenium fontanum, A. septentrionale, Polystichum lonchitis, and Asplenium lanceolatum microdon. Fine-foliage plants were not numerous and were mostly small — too small to have effect in the very large building in which they were staged. For four of these, excluding Ferns, Mr. J. Patterson was first with a large plant of variegated New Zealand Flax, a variegated Aloe, Croton variegatum, and a large Latania. The prizes for eight foliage plants, pots not exceeding 8 inches in diameter, brought out some well-grown plants. Here Mr. M’Cormick was first, closely followed by Mr. R. Grossart. The prizes for plants for table decora¬ tion also brought together a number of competitors. Mr. Grossart was awarded the first place for these, Mr. McIntyre being second. The whole of the plants of the various competitors were very much alike, and appeared to be rather small for the purpose denoted in the schedule. Prizes were offered for Dracaenas, Crotons, and Palms, but none of the plants of these called for particular mention. Mr. Gordon, Niddrie House, Liberton, was awarded the first prize for six Roses in pots with good plants, Mr. Patterson occupying the same position for three Roses in pots with not so large but fresher plants than in the foregoing. Prizes were offered respectively for twelve and six Cyclamens. The plants of these were not large, but very good as regards quality of bloom. For the twelve Mr. Gordon was first, and for six Mr. Low, gardener to Dr. Cossar, East Craig, Corstorphine. Amaryllis and Pelargoniums were not in good order. Cinerarias were rather poor in the quality of strain, the plants more¬ over being too small ; while the Chinese Primulas were in all cases JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. < April 12, 1883. ] 297 past their best. A Richardia with about twenty spathes secured the first prize for this to Mr. R. Bell. Mr. T. Macdonald secured the first prize for four strong specimens of Spiraea japonica. A large table was occupied with Mignonette, most of which was really fine. For two standards Mr. J. Richardson, gardener to Sir R. Dick Cunning¬ ham, Bart, Prestonfield, was first, his plants having heads about 3 feet over and in vigorous health. Mr. S. Graham was second, also with examples of good culture. Mr. G. Greig was first for a single standard, very good, and Mr. McLure second. Por two pots Migno¬ nette Mr. W. Penn was first with close and dwarf bushes about 4 feet across, Mr. G. Greig second with stronger-grown plants but lacking the finish of the former, while to Mr. J. Richardson an extra prize was awarded for plants little behind either of the other prizewinners. Lily of the Valley was also numerously represented, being on the whole very good throughout, though the foliage was rather lacking in size. Por three pots or pans Mr. McLure was first, Mr. Pearson being second with what had been much better stuff ” a week before. For one pot or pan of the same Mr. T. Grieve took first. Dielytras filled a large table. Some very good Deutzias were also set up close to the Dielytras, Mr. M’Cormick being first for two plants ; and Mr. John Glass, Whitepark, in the same position for one plant. The prizes for six alpine plants brought out some bright collections. Mr. D. Forrester, Woodcockdale, Linlithgow, was awarded the first prize for Primulas helvetica, viscosa nivea, rosea, and denticulata. and Nar¬ cissus Bulbocodium and Trillium grandiflorum. Mr. G. Forrester, Polmont, was second with much the same kinds. Bulbs. — The first four series of prizes were devoted to Hyacinths in twelves, eights, sixes, and sixes for amateurs only. Generally the Hyacinths were poor, wanting in length of spike, and with a general looseness of build apparent. Por the twelve, Mr. McLeod, Blind Asylum, West Craig-Millar, was first, and Mr. McLure second. For eight plants, Mr. Syme, gardener to Mr. Lindsay, Ridge Park, Lanark, uras first, and Mr. Pearson, Beechwood, Corstorphine, second. Both of these were superior to the plants in the twelves. Mr. Stewart, High Street, Haddington, took first in both the sixes with good plants. Tulips were shown in 9-inch pots, some two dozen bulbs in each. Though more showy as a whole, the quality of the flowers was not so good as where only three bulbs are grown in each pot. Mr. W. Penn was first for eight, and Mr. G. Greig first for six. For six pots of Polyanthus Narcissus (also in 9-inch pots) the competition was poor, Mr. Pearson taking the first prize. Garden Narcissus were staged by only one exhibitor, Mr. McLure. Cut Flowers. — For twenty-four Roses, not less than eight sorts, Mr. J. Gordon was awarded the first place for good blooms. For twelve, not less than six sorts, Mr. Bowman, gardener to Lord Deas, Pittendriech, was first with lovely Tea Roses ; Mr. Murray, gardener to Marquis of Ailsa, Culzean Castle, second, and Mr. Sheack third. Twelve Gloire de Dijons were staged, but poor. But if these were poor the Mardchal Niels were simply superb, the twelve staged by Mr. Pearson, Beechwood, being enormous globes of golden yellow. Mr. Dow, gardener to Sir D. Baird, Bart., Newbyth, was second with very good blooms, and a large number of boxes containing blooms of good quality were also staged. Prizes were also given for Camellias, of which there was a good display, and for Rhododendron trusses. For both hand and table bouquets Mr. R. Grossart was first with very good arrangements. Fruit. — Some good well-kept Apples, a dish of good Strawberries from Mr. Dow, a good Pine Apple from Mr. McIntyre, and some examples of Black Alicante Grapes of extra merit were shown. The last were Black Alicantes, both first and second-prize lots being well kept, fresh, with the bloom and colour perfect. Mr. S. McKinnon was first, and Mr. Grieg second. Some Strawberries were shown in pots, but nothing noteworthy was noted of these. In Class 5, devoted to Vegetables, a good collection of vegetables gained first prize to Mr. Potter. Seacliffe, North Berwick. It con¬ tained good Leeks, Trebons Onions, young Carrots, Niddrie Protect¬ ing Broccoli (white as Cauliflowers), Mushrooms, large Brussels Sprouts, Seakale, Kidney Beans, young Potatoes, &c. Mr. J. Stewart had first for a collection of Salads. Amongst other vegetables was a fine dish of Mushrooms from Mr. McIntyre, to which first prize was awarded. The two classes set apart for nurserymen was the one for ordinary plants and the other for bulbs and cut flowers. The first prize in Class C was for a table of plants arranged for effect. Here Messrs. Ireland & Thomson were easily first with a table conspicuous by the richness and brightness of its contents ; Messrs. Methven & Sons were second with a table containing plants of a commoner character. For twelve hardy Rhododendrons, distinct sorts, in pots or tubs, Messrs. R. B. Laird & Sons were first with enormous plants ; were fastuosa fl.-pl., lilac, fine ; Prince Camille de Rohan ; Comet, crimson ; Joseph Whitworth, very dark ; Auguste Van Geert, light rose ; and Jean Stern, a light variety with large individual pips. The Lawson Seed Company were second with much smaller plants. For six Rhododendrons Messrs. Methven & Sons were first with good plants of Grand Arab, Prometheus, Lord Wolseley, clear crimson ; Barclay- anum, Mr. John Waterer, and Lord Palmerston. Messrs. R.B. Laird and Son were first for six greenhouse Rhododendrons, but the plants had been much damaged ; a specimen of exoniensis was, however, in good order, and showed what the others ought to have been had they not been unfortunately shaken so much. The Lawson Seed and Nursery Company staged twelve Coniferre, to which the first prize was awarded. R. B. Laird & Son were first for table plants ; Messrs. Ireland & Thomson for new or rare plants; Mr. Robertson, Munro, Portobello, for hardy plants. Class 7 was devoted to Dutch bulbs and cut flowers. Messrs. R. B. Laird were first for twenty-four Hyacinths, and Mr. Sutherland, sen., second, the same exhibitor taking the prizes for twelve Hyacinths. For twelve cut Roses Mr. Wilson, Kendal, was first, also for twelve Marechal Niel Roses, but these were not so fine as in the gardeners’ competitions. For a hand bouquet Mr. Sutherland was first ; for that of a bride Mr. Wilson, and for six buttonhole bouquets Mr. G. Sinclair, Prestonkirk. Amongst the miscellaneous exhibits Mr. Wilson, Kendal, showed a stand of lovely Niphetos Roses and floral crosses and wreaths. Hardy flowers were numerously staged by Mr. Robertson Munroe, and Mr. S. Sinclair. Messrs. Dickson & Co. set up a table of Cinerarias, and a basket of cut Orchid flowers was awarded a first prize. These were from The Woodlands, Perth. We may remind our readers that the eleventh quinquennial International Exhibition of the ROYAL BOTANICAL AND Agri¬ cultural Society of Ghent opens on the 15th inst. in the ol Flemish city, and closes on the 22nd. Although it will not, probably, be of such a marked international character as regards the exhibits as has been the case in some previous years, some of the chief English nurserymen not being expected to compete, the display will the better represent Belgian horticulture. Many persons from England will visit the Show, and we wish more could do so, if only to experience the frank, genial, hearty wel¬ come they would receive from our friends in the “ City of Flowers.” ■ - At a General Meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, held last Tuesday, J. J. VVheble, Esq., F.R.H.S., in the chair, the following candidates wrnre unanimously elected Fellows —viz., W. H. Clark, Miss Isabella Cockburn-Hood, Albert Cooper, Edward Dent, W. G. Emberlin, Luke Finney, Capt. C. R. Har¬ greaves, W. P. Hummerston, Robert A. Kemp, Dr. Kirby, James Lye, Charles Noble, Osbert Salvin, F.R.S., George Thomas, Sir Francis Wyatt Truscott, and Ernest White. - Cucumber and Melon Disease.— We have been asked to say that if any nurserymen or gardeners have their plants attacked by the above, or with cobweb fungus on seeds or cuttings, they can be supplied with a material that will probably destroy the disease, with instructions, gratis and carriage free, from E. W. Smith, 109, Cheapside, E.C. - The Leeds Horticultural Gardens Company (Limited) announce that they will hold a Floral and Horticultural Exhibition June 19th and 20th in the Gardens. Schedules can be had on application to G. Bush, Secretary. - ;i Saltburn ” writes to us as follows relative to Vines bleeding, but is the remedy a safe one ? — “ The bleeding of Vines will be stopped at once by moving the earth at the base of the stem and pouring down two or three pailfuls of cold water. The necessity of watering greenhouse, stove, or frame plants with water of the same temperature as the greenhouse, &c., has been over and over again insisted upon in this Journal. The above sentence relative to Vines bleeding explains the philosophy of the advice.” - We understand the Auriculas at Slough (Mr. C. Turner’s) are in very fine condition this year, a collection of 2500 plants being in bloom, which admirers of this charming spring flower are invited to inspect. - Mr. Mallender, The Gardens, Hodsock Priory, sends us the following interesting note on the weather in Nottingham- 298 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ April 12, 1883. shire : — “ I thought it might interest some of your many readers to know that we are having more sunshine this season than we have had for several seasons past, and if it will continue as it has begun it will he a great boon to this country. We already have had this year 264.6 hours of bright sunshine here up to the end of March, and only twenty-nine sunless days. The rainfall for January was 2.51 inches ; for February, 2.73 inches ; for March, 1.15 inch, the last month being the driest here since July, 1881 ; but if the driest it was most severe. During the past eight years only four months have had a lower mean temperature — namely, January, 1879 and 1881, and December, 1878 and 1S79. Snow fell on fourteen days. The thermometer in the shade fell below 32° on twenty-five nights, and on the grass on twenty-seven nights. The morning of the 10th the thermometer on the grass registered 34° of frost, which has only been exceeded twice in the last four years — namely, in December, 1879, and January, 1881. February was very mild and vegetation very forward, so that injury to the fruit blossom is very serious. The observations here are strictly kept, the instruments have all been verified at Kew, and a Stevenson’s screen used, so'that the readings may be relied on.” - The Croydon Horticultural Society will hold their seventh annual summer Exhibition on Wednesday, June 27th, in the grounds of Wellesley House, when prizes will be offered in 124 classes for plants, flowers, fruits, and vegetables ; but special provision is made for Roses, liberal prizes being offered in nineteen classes, besides the National Rose Society’s silver medal for the best blooms in five classes, and a piece of plate value three guineas, presented by Edward Mawley, Esq., for the best twenty-four Roses, distinct. - In a parcel of Messrs. Cassell, Petter & Galpin’s monthly works we have part 50 of Familiar Garden Flowers, giving coloured figures of the Gloxinia and Double Trumpet Daffodil, with descriptive letterpress ; part 73 of Familiar Wild Flowers, including the Thrift and Bladder Campion ; part 32 of Paxton's Flower Garden , which has coloured plates of Trichopilia coccinea and Dendrobium albo-sanguineum, as well as several woodcuts in the “ Gleanings ; ” part 1 of a re-issue of the Dictionary of Cookery, a useful work, abundantly illustrated ; and part 1 of the Dore Gallery, which is devoted to engravings selected from the editions of Dante, Milton, and others issued by this firm, and illustrated by M. Dore, - We are sorry to learn that the Horsham Rose Associa¬ tion, after having been in existence for six years, and after having held six capital shows, has been dissolved owing to the want of public support. - At the next meeting of the Meteorological Society, to be held at 25, Great George Street, Westminster, on Wednes¬ day, the 18th inst„ at 7 p.m., the following papers will be read : — “ Cirrus and Cirro-Cumulus,” by the Hon. F. A. Rollo Russell, M.A., F.M.S. “ Notes on Waterspouts, their Occurrence and Formation,” by George Attwood, Assoc.M.Inst.C.E,, F.G.S. “ Record of Bright Sunshine,” by W. W. Rundell, F.M.S. “ Note on Wind, Cloudiness, and Halos ; also on Results from a Redier’s Barograph,” by Edward T. Dowson, F.M.S. - Preserved Fruits. — A few weeks ago we published an account of the great fruit farm which Lord Sudeley has formed at Toddington in Gloucestershire, and which has been leased by Mr. T. W. Beach of Ealing Road, Middlesex. It is there stated that Mr. Beach has taken the whole of the produce of the five hundred acres, to dispose of it either fresh or preserved. Mr. Beach has had long experience as a fruit-grower and preserver, and he has found there is sufficient demand for pure jams to in¬ duce him to confidently expect the most satisfactory results both for Lord Sudeley and himself. About Maidstone and some parts of Kent the “ boilers down ” of fruit are called “fruit-smashers,” and this is not an inapt designation for them, for the fruit is really smashed, and a sort of preserve is turned out which no doubt finds favour with the masses of the population. Mr. Beach is not a “ smasher,” but a true preserver. We have seen some of his pro¬ ductions, and we do not exaggerate when we say that they are fit to take their place with the finest that can be turned out by the skilful confectioner. The Strawberries and Raspberries are espe¬ cially beautiful, and remind us of the days of old, when a certain careful housewife superintended the making of her own jams, and gladdened our young hearts by dealing out the scum to us as a reward for our good behaviour while being permitted to view the process. These are really preserved fruits, not one of them being bruised, but each as perfect as when gathered, and all floating in a transparent syrup. The Plums and Apricots are of course broken up, the Gooseberries are whole. These preserves are made by Mr. Beach on a large scale for wholesale trading, and are put up in glass bottles of various sizes, some holding about two quarts, and from our own experience of these excellent productions we can strongly advise our readers when they require preserved fruits to inquire for those prepared by Mr. T. W. Beach. - At the Agricultural Hall, Islington, the Building Trades Exhibition now being held is both extensive and interesting, comprising a great variety of appliances and materials. Many horticultural builders and hot-water engineers also contribute largely, the principal being the following : — Messrs. Matthews and Co., Weston-super-Mare, a large stand of ornamental pottery, tiles, &c. ; Hope & Co., Birmingham, boilers and samples of glaz¬ ing ; W. Richardson, Darlington, has portable frames, greenhouses, and lath blinds ; John Warner & Co., Cripplegate, have a number of pumps ; Messenger & Co., Loughborough, have a large space devoted to boilers and greenhouses ; The Thames Bank Iron Com¬ pany also have boilers, valves, pipes, and ventilators ; J. Thomas and Co., Queen Victoria Street, have a great variety of wire arches, fowl runs, &c. ; Jeffrey & Co., Oxford Street, also show ornamental wirework, greenhouses and garden seats ; and Mr. B. W. Warhurst, Highgate Road, samples of his various patent boilers. - Mr. C. S. Fuidge, Secretary of the Southampton Hor¬ ticultural Society, writes : — “We have embarked in a scheme for securing a place for the Society’s Shows for fourteen years at least. Although not such an arrangement as we could have wished, still it is the most favourable we could get, and at any rate will prevent our being built out for some time to come. The land we have seecured is very well situated — just far enough to take it away from the worst of the town smoke, and yet near enough to secure a good attendance. It is ten acres in extent, abuts on to the beautiful Southampton Common, is well wooded with some fine trees, has first-rate approaches, and is close to tram line. The Society intends to celebrate its twenty -first anni¬ versary by the public opening of the grounds. As evidence of the growth of this Society, I may mention that when I took my present office ten years ago the Society consisted of 160 members, with a total income from all sources of about £250. We now number over a thousand members, and last year our income amounted to over £1200.” ROSES— EARLY OR LATE PRUNING. I quite fail to see the force of the observations on page 278 that it may be well to prune early in the south but less safe to do so in colder localities. In my view precisely the reverse is the case. I have pruned Roses for twenty-five years in a cold northerly district — a few in the autumn and the greater number in spring after the growths on the extremities of the shoots were often 2 or 3 inches long. The latter I have found by far the safer April 12, 1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 299 practice, though during some seasons the early-pruned plants pro¬ duced earlier blooms, which were acceptable. During all that time, and among the thousands of plants that have been under culture, I have not observed any material injury result from bleeding. Early pruning results in the base buds starting into growth too soon, and if these are cut by such frosts as prevailed a fortnight ago the plants are permanently crippled ; and these growths are produced earlier in the south than in the north, as I have had incontrovertible proof, having had something to do with Roses both south of the Thames and north of the Humber. Mr. Moorman describes the safe plan, for a season like the present especially, on page 238. I went to see him a week after his letter appeared, and found him practising what he bad preached, for he was then busy with the secateurs. Many of the early growths towards the extremity of last year’s shoots were 3 inches long, and in some of them buds had formed. These growths had all been killed by the frost, but there were plenty of bold buds on the lower parts of the stem as safe as if there had been no frost. To these buds the shoots were being shortened, and a strong free growth will be the certain result if the weather be even moderately genial, as we may fairly expect it to be now. I have also visited another garden in which the Roses were pruned in the autumn. The locality is south of the Thames and the position sheltered. On these Roses all the buds left had started previous to the frost, and at least 90 per cent, of the growths are killed. It is a question if some of the plants are not killed also, but there is no question as to their inability to afford even a half-satisfactory display of Roses during the ensuing summer. But will not the plants that had grown so freely before Mr. Moorman pruned them bleed ? I venture to say that not an ounce of sap will escape from a hundred of them. The frost, by killing the young growths, had checked the flow of sap, and that which is now supplied by the roots will be appropriated by the succeeding growths now just on the eve of starting. Another question. Have not the plants been weakened by first being allowed to grow so freely, and then cutting off these growths by the armful or barrowload ? The answer, though all persons may not accept it as satisfactory, must again be in the negative. The very production of the growths incited root-action in the same proportion ; and although the extension of the new roots would cease for a time by the removal of the branches, the roots themselves would not die. “ How do you know this ? ” some incredulous reader may soliloquise. I know it by having tested the matter on Roses grown in pots, and I am not quite sure that anyone is competent to refute it who has not made similar experiments. But the Roses themselves under Mr. Moorman’s care answer what may be termed the vitality question. They have always been pruned in the manner and condition indicated, and if the process were a weakening one the plants ought now to be miserable starvelings, and especially as they are growing in light gravelly soil and in a very dry position ; yet, on the contrary, they are in the most satisfactory condition, the growth being surprisingly good. On stronger real Rose-growing soil I have had growths 6 feet long on plants that for years have been pruned after the bushes were a mass of green shoots. This, then, I submit is the safe mode to adopt ; and whether it or any other method of pruning will result in a certain number of blooms being ready on a par¬ ticular day for showing depends, I fancy, more on the weather during April, May, and June than on any particular time that the shoots are shortened. What do others say ? — An Old Hand. WEATHER AND WORK. Last month will long be remembered for its severity, and coming as it did after a mild February and a very mild January, we cannot yet estimate fully its effects on vegetation, which was more than usually susceptible to its influence. Roses which passed two terribly severe winters unscathed, because the cold came before they were excited into activity, are this season the subjects of considerable anxiety. Many of them appear to be growing all right at present, but it is very probable they will show the effects of ruptured sap vessels before long. They were in February getting quite into vigorous growth, and it was a question whether pruning had not better be done then. Nearly two months have passed and many are still unpruned. Potato-planting was considerably delayed in its commencement, but with the dry weather and the extremely good condition of the soil we have made up arrears in this department. In accordance with our practice of late years no ground was dug before February, and as February was an extremely wet month none was dug then. With the sunshine and frost in the early part of March all avail¬ able strength was put on to digging whenever the ground was not too hard for the purpose, and the surface quickly became pulverised and in the best possible condition. Loth to lose a chance of planting the Potatoes while the weather was dry, as the season was getting along fast, I took a leaf out of Mr. Coleman’s book, as detailed in this Journal for March 8th, and placed the sets on the surface, or rather drills were made about 1^ inch deep, so that the Potatoes when laid down had their surface about level with the surrounding soil, and then they were earthed up about 3 inches deep. It wil be seen I have not followed Mr. Coleman’s plan exactly, but I am indebted to him for the idea of placing the tubers on the surface, and I have no doubt it will be an advantage on our soil, which, like his, is cold and heavy as well as shallow. We usually plant Champions 30 by 15 inches, but as the ridges will be higher than usual by the time they have received their final earthing, and of course more soil will be used for the purpose, we have given them a greater breadth between the rows and less between the sets. They are now 36 by 12 inches. No manure has yet been applied, as in the ordinary way it would have been applied at the second digging and planting, but the ground is in very good heart, and we shall apply some artificial manure at the final earthing-up, which will take place as soon as the rows are visible. I believe many a cottager’s crop of Potatoes is spoiled by earthing up too late. The rows are often not more than 18 inches apart, the Potatoes are allowed to grow 6 or 7 inches high, by which time their roots meet between the rows, and earthing up at that time certainly does more harm than good. Like “ Single-handed ” (see page 238), we plant late Potatoes before the midseason varieties, as will be seen by my report in the Journal, and that plan is generally practised about here by the cottagers, although I believe it is not common in many places. Peas, too, could not be sown in the ordinary way. The ground was too wet to dig, and had the Peas been sown they would have been quickly devoured by the little black slugs which eat out the centres and then curl themselves up in their shells. We therefore took out the soil a spade’s width and 3 inches deep, making a little bank with it on the east side of the trench, a little dissolved bone was scattered over the bottom and covered with an inch of fine soil. The Peas were then sown, after being red-leaded, and they were covered with 2 inches of burned clay. Although they were a long time coming through, owing to the cold weather, they did come at last, and they look ext^mely well. A second sowing made a month later was done in a similar manner, and these are nearly as forward as the first in appearance, but being of the best class of Marrows will, of course, be longer in coming in. Our Peach trees had many flowers expanded in February. We knew it was of no use trying to save such as were open then, so the frost was allowed full play, the covering, excepting a coping board, being deferred till the end of March. The result is that, although most of the early blooms are killed, those which were not expanded, and the foliage as well, were retarded, so that there is now a fair prospect of a crop from the late blooms. Peach blooms while dry are much hardier than many people imagine, and many a crop is spoiled by too much covering. Apricots are much more tender as well as earlier, and are gone beyond all hope. — Wm. Taylor. NOTES FROM MY GARDEN IN 1882.— No. 3. ROSES. A never-ending theme, and yet, I believe, to the readers of the Journal a never- wearying one. There are so many aspects of it, so many different experiences, so much variety of opinion, that there is never to the true rosarian much fear of his getting too luxurious a diet — indeed he is pretty nearly in Oliver Twist’s condition, ever asking for more ; and therefore, however homely and egotistic my remarks may seem, I yet feel that I need not apologise to the readers of the Journal for placing them before them. And I have this one great comfort in so doing, that I do not set up to be a Rose-grower par excellence, and, as is well known, am not an exhibitor. I do not, therefore, ask anyone to judge of my Rose-growing by the exacting requirements of an exhibitor. My soil is not naturally a good one for Roses ; but as I have always maintained that this is quite a secondary point to climate, and as in our beautiful county we can put forward no plea of deficiency in that respect, I am sure that I could grow my Roses to the perfection required by the present high standard of our exhibits. As it is I have two objects in view in my Rose-growing : one is to have the opportunity of seeing and studying their various habits and whims, the other of growing the newer varieties, so that 1 may be able to see what is their character ; and when they come before me in 300 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, [ April 12, 1883. judging they do not come as strangers, but as those whose acquaint¬ ance I have already made. Owing to my space being somewhat limited I am also obliged to grow my Roses in beds somewhat closer than I believe they ought to be, certainly closer than I see them in most of the gardens belonging to my friends ; but yet by a judicious supply, not only of manure but also of fresh loam, I think that this may be obviated. The effects of frost on Roses I never saw more severely illustrated than by the condition of my beds last autumn. They had suffered much by the winter of 1880, and in pruning after that had cut very hard, sufficiently so, as I thought, to get below all damage done to the wood. There was an apparent vigour in them afterwards that deceived me into the belief that they had weathered the storm. Then came the sharp winter of 1881, and again I cut, as I thought, hard ; but the appearance of the plants last summer showed me that their days were numbered. I do not know what would have been the case had I cut them right down to the ground and allowed them to shoot up from underneath, but evidently they were cankered by the action of the frost, and so I had to remove a good many ; but the older established plants did not seem to suffer nearly so much, while Teas, which I had cut down quite close, started most vigorously and did well. Certainly this beautiful class deserves all the favour it is receiving, for it gives a Rose- grower greater length of enjoyment than any class. I have none in the house. There are some on the wall which produce early blooms, and then with three beds we get a continuous succession of flowers on until the frost cuts them off. In our southern counties, then, there ought to be a great future for the Tea Rose. The seedling Briar has materially contributed to this ; for where many kinds used to be utterly devoured by the Manetti, a sort of Saturn eating up his own children, the seedling Briar acts as a kind foster-mother, giving sufficient nourishment but not injury by excess of food. I may mention here that I have great hopes that my grand tree of Reve d’Or will once again occupy its old position. After the two severe winters of 1880 and 1881 I had to saw it right down to the ground, and had almost determined to grub it. However, I thought it best to let it remain, and it has rewarded my forbearance by starting afresh from the bottom. It has now run up some 10 feet, and I hope it may be able by-and-by to fill-in that side of the house. I have left the nails in the wall where it used to be, so that if any incredulous person doubts my story I can point to these in proof of it. I have sometimes heard complaints as to the non- flowering of this variety, but I have never found it so. My own plant, and many that have been budded from it, are as floriferous as possible. As in other cases there may be a less desirable variety of it, I can only certify as to my own. It hardly comes within the province of 1882 to write upon the subject which I ventilated in the pages of the Journal some time ago — viz., the autumn or spring planting of Roses, because the results of experiments cannot be 3een until by-and-by. I am, how¬ ever, anxious to revert to it because I have received two very strong testimonies in favour of spring planting — i.e., be it remembered, not of Roses which have been in one’s own garden, but those which every wise rosarian will obtain when he requires them from the nurseryman. One is from a gardener well known in the pages of the Journal — Mr. Pettigrew, of the Castle Gardens at Cardiff (the Marquis of Bute), who says, “I have for years adopted the plan of laying-in plants in the autumn and planting them in the spring, and with much success.” The other is from a well-known, and will be, if I mistake not, a better known amateur, Mr. W. J. Grant of Hope End, Ledbury, near Hereford. I give his own words — “ I was almost tempted to give my experience in the Journal, but as the matter was taken up by older rosarians than myself I did not like to venture. All I know about Roses and Rose-growing I have learned from personal experience. As regards planting, the con¬ clusion I have come to in the matter is that, if properly looked after, plants planted in March, say up to the 2 -5th, are quite as well and in many respects better than those planted in October. The best blooms I have ever had were cut on the 1st of July, 1881, from cut-backs planted on the previous 10th of March, 1881. Had they been planted when received from the nursery in October, 1880, I should have lost half of them, as I did the winter before. This is my experience of a severe winter and a dry spring. Again, I planted two-thirds of my purchase of October, 1881, as soon as I got the plants 4th November, and the remainder in March, 1882. The latter did by far the best in every way. So convinced am I about it that in future I shall always plant in spring. I have about 150 plants now that I got in November, which I shall plant in March, and if you care to hear the result you shall.” Scientifically, I am told, spring planting is all wrong. But the stern logic of facts is difficult to get over. I have heard a great deal about root-action of plants in winter, and that if plants were heeled-in that the moving of them in the spring would destroy the young rootlets. I have been planting about a hundred plants which were laid-in in November, some on the Manetti, some on the seed¬ ling Briar, and others on the Briar cutting, and in only six could I discern any root-action (vhatever. Nay, more, I had to trans¬ plant one or two in my own garden to fill up ; and here I found also that there was no root-action, and yet on many of the plants thus laid-in there were shoots 1^ inch long, as if there were some action going on. This is so far my experience, and I shall be curious to see what the result is. I had a considerable number of new Roses in the garden, but I am sorry to say nothing noticeable enough to make me hope for any great addition to our lists. Madame Gabriel Luizet proved herself to be more than a summer Rose, and there is a most marked difference in A. K. Williams’ vigour when grown on seedling Briar. Mr. Walters of Exeter was good enough to send me some ot each, and nothing could be more vigorous than those grown on the Briar. Complaints are heard of its delicacy, and it will be a boon if this method of treatment overcomes that. There is much to be ! ; learned as to the suitability of different stocks for different varieties. ! There are two Roses, not absolutely new, but not very well known, which are admirable as climbing Roses — Longworth Rambler (Prince) and Selina, an American variety, and anyone wanting Roses to cover a house will find these very suitable and hardy. It was not altogether a satisfactory year with me. That which I always look upon as a very valuable point in the Rose, the being j able to gather good blooms in autumn, was sadly frustrated by the continuous wet. Especially was this the case with the Teas. Still, after all there is no flower which gives so long a season of pleasure to the grower as does the Rose. — D., Deal. ZONAL PELARGONIUMS FOR WINTER BLOOMING. Ip I understand rightly, one of the objects of horticultural literature is to popularise and extend the growth of plants among the millions. If there is any flower that can be described as essentially “ popular ” it is the Zonal Pelargonium, sometimes erro- , neously called Geranium. I think the cultural treatment ( vide page 259), so lucidly pointed out by Mr. Brotherston, has the opposite tendency. I am sure you will permit me to say how those popular flowers may be easily grown from the standpoint of the greatest pleasure for the greatest number. I freely admit, if propagation is commenced now as suggested, “a stove with a j minimum temperature of 65° ” would be very useful, but this would exclude every grower who happens not to have a stove and the command of such a temperature. I propagate later on — May or June generally, in a common frame, with a few feet of stable manure to give a night temperature of 00°. The sun will give a sufficient day temperature. Those who have no frame or heating apparatus of any kind need not despair if they wish to increase their plants, as any ordinary long box with friable soil will answer their purpose. Take a cutting 5 or G inches long of stout fairly matured growth — if soft lay it in the sun on a shelf for a few hours, and put some sharp river, road, or silver sand in before you insert them. Press the soil around the base, and then fully expose to the sun, If the soil is ordinarily moist do not water, as decay at the base is more to be dreaded than drought. If the box is 9 inches high — the height of a board, half full of soil will do, and the sides will protect them against inclement winds. An artisan in Lancashire once showed me a case of this description, with just the addition of sheets of glass over all, and I have never seen healthier cuttings than in his miniature frame or greenhouse. That was in August. He transferred them into 6-inch pots imme¬ diately, and plunged them in his flower beds. I saw them a month afterwards, and I venture to say that had he a propagating house and a specially built structure for subsequent growth he could not have had more sturdy, promising, well-shaped plants than these were the last week in September. I wrote to inquire at Christmas of his success. His reply was short — “ I built a small greenhouse since I saw you ; a small oil stove kept out the frost. I am enclosing you a few blooms.” Finer blooms no connoisseur need desire. “ Whatever men dare they can do,” and as these flowers are within the reach of all, all should have them, even the very best. I cannot wholly agree that those named by your corre¬ spondent are such, and for a limited collection would suggest the following in addition, obtained by me from Mr. Cannell, Swanley, last July, potted and started into growth, and then plunged out¬ side for six weeks before being taken in. The majority are bloom¬ ing still. Of round flowers, crimson and rose, Clytie, Celie, Rose, and Spencer ; purple and magenta, La France and Hebe are still in bloom ; also salmons Madame Colson, Fanny Catlin, and Ceres. Of the oculated, Czarina and Miss Hamilton are best. Of pink and white I prefer Eurydice, Miss Strutt, and April 12, 1 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 301 Constance j while Clipper Improved and Eureka are the best winter whites I know. — W. J. M., Clonmel. GENTIANS. In the interesting note on Gentians, page 274, “ M. B.” has told exactly what I wanted to know about G. bavarica. We are trying many species of Gentians in the experimental gardens at Oakwood and here — some with complete success. If “ M. B.” will give me his address I shall have much pleasure in sending him seedlings of G. asclepiadea, both blue and white. It grows freely with us and sows itself about. I think one of the most beautiful of the family is what the late Mr. McNab grew, so well in the Edinburgh Botanic Garden rockwork under the name of G. gelida, but which I believe to be G. septemfida. G. Andrewsi grows well. A plant from our garden was figured in the “ Botanic Magazine,” and sows itself. It is curious, considering its closed petals, that it should be one of the freest-seeding of Gentians. Gentiana ornata, of which we have only one small plant, shows well with its beautiful pale blue flowers. Gentiana verna does fairly well. Gentiana acaulis *■ chooses to flourish ” at Wesley in the damp loam. Gentiana cruciata sows itself about. G. ba¬ varica has not as yet succeeded well, but I hope after “ M. B.'s ” hint3 that it will do so. — George F. Wilson, Heatherhanl, Weylridye Heath. CLIMBERS AS ROOF-COVERING PLANTS. TACSONIA MANICATA. As a greenhouse climber I know few more beautiful than this good old plant, yet we seldom see it recommended now. I have just been slightly pruning a plant that by-and-by will produce streamers of brilliant scarlet flowers. 1 find cuttings of the young Fig. 72. — Tacsonia manicata. growths when a little firm strike freely, and the plants grow wTell in a compost of loam with a little peat and leaf soil added. I have been astonished to find the numbers of persons who ask the name of this climber. I thought everybody knew, but this is certainly not so, and more might know and grow it with advantage. About the plant historically I know nothing, but I know it is very beautiful when well grown under a light roof. — J. Boston. [This, commonly called the Gauntletted Tacsonia, is a native of Peru, and probably common there, for many botanical travellers have observed it. Humboldt and Bonpland brought some varie¬ ties from the city of Loxa ; Hartweg says that it is found in hedges near that place, and it forms No. 1294 of Linden’s Herbarium, ROSES. I HAVE grown for several years some thousands of Roses in my garden. They have been propagated upon every variety of stock, and have been planted in beds sheltered and exposed. The lesson I have learned has come from a variety of sources. The result is that I advise all amateur Rose-growers who do not give themselves up to the conceit of exhibition to discard all plants grown upon stocks. My experience shows that there is scarcely a Rose which is not better grown under suitable conditions upon its own roots than upon a stock, and I know of no Rose which will not grow well from cuttings, and be longer- lived and more floriferous, than Roses budded on a stock however vigorous. But success is entirely dependent upon treatment ; starve a tender plant or grow it in sterile soil and you will have no blooms, and the weakling will shrink and die ; but give it a suitable and rich soil, and it will thrive better than upon the most robust stock. With plants grown on their own roots there are no unwelcome suckers. Do what you may, in a year or two the foreign stock will send up nurse¬ lings of its own tribe ; and if your plants die to the ground, as many of them will do in a rigorous winter or spring, there is no certainty, unless you expose the plant to the budded portion, whether the new shoots are Briars or bastards, the ille¬ gitimate offspring being in this case what you crave. It is much easier to nurserymen to propagate plants by budding than by cuttings. A Rose tree may yield a hundred strong buds but not ten good cuttings, and in skilful hands less buds than cuttings fail. Hence stock-budded plants are in favour. My words are for those who grow Roses in the garden, for those who love a bright show of beautiful flowers in the open sun¬ shine and upon their tables. I have never exhibited a Rose ; the pleasure of a day would not satisfy me. I require that the charms of the Rose beds should be had in natural luxuriance from June to November, and for every one who exhibits there are hundreds who grow Roses. In my case there is nothing selfish in my love of the flower ; living a short distance from a large town my grounds are open for months for the pleasure of others. During the season many thousands of persons, the majority of them children, have the gardens thrown open to them, and not a bloom has been touched. I am obliged to grow the great majority of the Rose trees upon foreign stocks because I cannot buy plants propagated by cuttings. I am told it does not pay to grow them in that way, and that budded plants upon the Manetti, if planted deeply, will throw out roots from the scion and will thus give me what I need. Well, this proves my case. It shows that plants will thrive upon their own roots. Nay, more, it condemns the fashion of stock-propaga¬ tion ; for there is this weakness in the grower’s position — the scion will, it is true, produce its own roots, but the stock will pro¬ duce its own scions. Hence, though we may thus get a tree upon its own roots, it is apt to be surrounded by a tribe of rapacious blood-suckers. Would it not be worth while for some of our large nurserymen, or for one in a small way, to initiate a supply of Roses upon their own roots ? I would buy some hundreds yearly were they to be had, and there are many who would be glad to get a supply. — W. Simons, Merthyr Tydfil. 302 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ Apm 12, isss. gathered by his collectors, Funck and Schlim, in the province of Merida, at the elevation of 7000 feet above the sea. It forms a rambling climber, with grey three-lobed leaves and large scarlet flowers, whose tube is almost concealed by three downy bracts, from which circumstance we presume Jussieu gave it the name of Gauntletted (or Manicate) ; it must be owned that the tube of the flower may not unaptly be compared to an arm thrust into a large loose glove. The coronet consists of two principal rows of short violet teeth planted on the green tube of the calyx lining. The species was introduced by the Horticultural Society in 1813.] POTATOES FOE TABLE AND MARKET. {Continued from page 276.) In the following notes the figures 1, 2, and 3 indicate first early, second early, and late varieties ; the months the time of planting ; and the asterisks those varieties that axe considered the best for market purposes by the respective cultivators. SCOTLAND. Aberdeenshire. — 1. January if the weather be favourable, if not February. Ashleaf Kidney, the earliest variety, or Yeitch’s. These are of dwarfer habit and earlier than Myatt’s, which, however, gives the largest return. 2. February if possible. White Fortyfold, Cold¬ stream, Ashtop Fluke, and Snowflake. 3. March, or the early half of April. Late planting gives watery roots, and more liable to disease. Regents, Victoria, Grampian, and Blue Fluke. The last keeps best, and when boiled mealy and of fine flavour. Manures and Appli¬ cation. — I am not so particular about manures as an open, deep, and well-pulverised soil. Anything open, such as leaves or decayed vegetables, are trenched in the ground, and either ground bones or guano is sowed over when the plants are a few inches high, some¬ times sown in the drills at the time of planting. Much manure forces tops and destroys the quality of the Potato. General Culture. — Distances for planting 2\ feet apart for early sorts, 3 or 3 h feet apart for late ones, but not deep. Use sets either medium-sized whole, or large cut, and planted from 9 to 12 inches asunder. Draw the soil lightly over them ; as they advance earth up, and when bones or guano is applied fork the whole ground between the lines. Keep earthing-up as long as there is soil to spare. — V. Farquhar, Fyvie Castle Gardens. Ayrshire. — 1. Second week in February if weather is suitable. Alpha, Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, Smith’s Seedling, *Beauty of Hebron. 2. End of March. Robertson’s Grampian, *Dalmahoy, *Red Bogs, Prince Arthur. 3. Beginning of April. Paterson’s Victoria, Prince Regents, *Scotch Champion, *Magnum Bonum. Soil. — Medium. Manures and Application. — In autumn the ground is ridged 2£ feet wide, digging in some stable manure, and when the planting season comes leaf soil is placed between the ridges, on which the sets are placed about 9 inches apart. Then the ground is levelled with forks. Nothing more is done till the shoots appear above ground, when the land is again forked between the rows, inclining a little soil to the young plants. In about a fortnight or so afterwards they are earthed up, not placing the soil too close to the neck of the haulm. — David Murray, Culzean Gardens , Maybole. Berwickshire.— 1. From the middle to the end of February, weather permitting. *Ashleaf Kidney, ^Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf Kidney, * Woodstock Kidney, and Smith’s Curly or Coldstream Early. Soil.— Light soil on south borders. 2. Middle of March, weather permitting. *Dalmahoy, Fortyfold, Rintoul’s Pink-eyed Don, and *Schoolmaster. Soil. — Medium, and the same for the late varieties. 3. First week of April. *Magnum Bonum, Regents, *Champion, and *Paterson’s Victoria. Manures and Application. — Good stable manure dug in with winter digging. — W illiam Richard¬ son, Ayton Castle Gardens , Ayton, Buteshire. — 1. First week in March. *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, *V eitch’s Improved Early Ashleaf, Mona’s Pride Kidney, and Smith’s or Coldstream Early. Soil. — Very light and sandy. 2. Last week in March. *Dalmahoy, *Rintoul’s White Don, Fortyfold, and School¬ master. 3. April. . *Paterson’s Victoria, Regents, and *Champion. Manures and Application. — A little Peruvian guano is spread in the drills at planting, keeping it clear of the sets, and a fair dusting of bone meal when forking between the rows before earthing-up. General Culture. — The earliest Potatoes I have them sprouted about an inch before planting. The main and late crops are planted on ground which has been trenched and heavily manured for Peas the previous year, and the results are very satisfactory. — David McAuslin, Brodick Castle , Isle of Arran. Caithness. — 1. March 1st to end. Ashleaf, Sandringham, *Mag- num Bonum, andRoyal Ashleaf. Soil.— Light, medium, and heavy 2. April 12th to end. *Myatt’s Prolific, *White Don, Rintoul Don and Schoolmaster. 3. April 20th to end. *Champion, Dalmahoy’ *Red-skmned Flourball, and *FortyJold. Manures and Appli¬ cation. — The ground is turned in winter and the frame manure applied, or sometimes fresh manure. We cut out drills 2 feet apart and place some peat soil in the drills, sometimes fresh turf with a little sulphur or lime or soot mixed. — John Sutherland, Langwell , Berriedale, Wick. _ Dumfriesshire. — 1. End of February; ready to lift middle of June. *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Beauty of Hebron, *Queen of the South, and Climax. Soil. — Light. Queen of the South is a really fine Potato. All who have grown it speak most highly of it, and I rank it one of the very best for early use. 2. 1st till middle of March. *Dalmahoy, *Schoolmaster, Fillbasket, and select Regents. 3. Middle of March till middle of April. *Scotch Champion, Magnum Bonum, *Reading Hero, and Scottish Queen. Scottish Queen I consider is the best late variety yet known, but the stock is very limited. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure in some cases ploughed in during autumn, but more generally put into the drills when planting. About thirty cartloads to the acre, with 2 cvvt. of guano and 3 or 4 cwt. of Morris and Griffin’s Potato manure strewn on the farmyard manure in the drills also at planting time. General Culture.— I generally grow my Potatoes after stubble, the land being ploughed during autumn. The land is drilled 26 to 28-inch drills ; the sets, according to the variety, being planted from 12 to 18 inches apart. The land is harrowed before the Potatoes appear above ground, after this the single-horse grubbier is run between the drills frequently. So soon as the shaws are large enough the drills are well earthed up, sometimes being done two or three times. — William Kerr, Bargavel, Dumfries. 1. Middle of March. Alpha, Old Ashleaved, *Myatt’s Kidney, and Lapstone Kidney. Soil. — Rather light. 2. 1st of April. *Dalmahoy, Schoolmaster, and Fortyfold Improved. Soil. — Medium. 3. Middle to end of April. *Walker’s Regent, Victoria, and ^Champion. Manures and Application. — Farmyard manure applied in moderate quantity some months before planting. General Culture. — In garden culture the manure is subtrenched-in. Deep drills are drawn at distances apart to suit the varieties — from 2b feet to 3 feet. The sets are deposited at a foot to 14 inches apart in the drills. Then full ridges are drawn over the rows at once, and never after earthed-up. I have grown enormous crops of Walker’s Regent by planting large Potatoes at 3 feet by 15 inches apart in deep rather heavy loam. In this way no small Potatoes are produced. I once from a few rows grown thus threw twenty-four Potatoes into the scales, which they turned at 44 lbs., one of the number being 3| tbs. Not one of these was hollow in the centre, and they were greatly appreciated for baking. I consider cutting Potatoes for planting a great mistake, especially if the ground is very dry when planted and they do not get rain immediately. The superfluous eyes should simply be destroyed. — David Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens. 1. About the 10th of March. Prince of Wales, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. Soil. — Heavy. You will best understand the nature of our garden soil when I state that our Apples, Pears, Plums, and Gooseberries all become overgrown with lichen and moss, and canker very badly. 2. Last week of March. Schoolmaster. 3. First week in April. *Scotch Champion and Skerry Blue. Manures and Application. — Manured for a crop of Cabbage with stable dung, and compost of leaf soil and lime occasionally, and the Potatoes being planted the year following without dung. General Culture. — I have tried about thirty varieties the last three seasons, but have not been able to find any of the newer sorts to do better on our land than those mentioned. I may here say that I consider Schoolmaster the best Potato in point of quality when cooked. — John Leslie, The Gardens, Springkell, Ecclefechan , N.B. 1. End of February. *01d Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, Myatt's Prolific Ashleaf, and *Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Light and gravelly. 2. First or second week of March. Snowflake, *Covent Garden Perfection, Rector of Woodstock, and *Manhattan. 3. End of March. *Schoolmaster, Grampian, *Scotch Champion, and Walker’s Improved Regent. Manures and Application. — I have tried the following manures, and have succeeded in growing first-class Potatoes with the whole of them : — 1st, Guano mixed with the soil at the time of planting ; 2nd, Salt and soot mixed, say one bushel of salt and one of soot, mixed with the soil at the time of planting ; 3rd, Half-decayed leaves in quantity, say C inches deep under the sets of Potatoes, grows fine clear tubers. General Culture. — I have not used farmyard manure for many years, but have generally chosen ground that had been well manured the previous year. In the event of the soil being poor I have used leaf soil with a little soot. For some years I have also grown them in ridges, which is a great improvement to flat planting, especially in a locality where the rain¬ fall is heavy. Attention ought to be paid in the saving of seed by keeping the best-shaped tubers. I have a few that I have grown for the last twenty years, and they are as good as ever. — James Dickson, The Gardens, Castlemilk. Fifeshire. — 1. From the middle to the end of February. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf, King of the Kidneys, *Racehorse, and Myatt’s Prolific. Soil. — Our garden soil is light, but Potatoes do remarkably well. 2. From the middle to the end of March. Grampian, Forty¬ fold, *Rintoul’s Pink Don, and *Dalmahoy. 3. The end of April. JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. April 12, 1883. ] 303 *Late Regent, *Paterson’s Victoria, and *Scotch Champion. Manures and Application. — Manure is put on during winter, and the ground thrown up into ridges feet wide. I prefer manure for the Potato ground from old hotbeds well decomposed. General Culture. — When planting time comes level the bottom of the drills and plant about 15 inches apart, and level the ridges on the seed. Hoe to keep down weeds ; when ready fork between the rows and earth up. — Peter Rintoul, Raith Gardens, Kirkcaldy. Forfarshire. — 1. 1st April to the middle. Old Ashleaf Sidney, Sandringham Early Kidney, and *Myatt’s Prolific. Soil. — Medium rich free soil. 2. 1st of March to the middle of April, according to weather. Fortyfold, White Don, ^Schoolmaster, and *Hagnum Bonum. Soil. — From medium to heavy, porous. 3. 1st March to middle of April, according to the state of the weather. *Paterson’s Victoria and ♦Scotch Champion. Soil. — Light to medium, open gravelly subsoil. Manures and Application. — When the land is in good heart manure is given sparingly, but in light poor soil a heavy manuring is neces¬ sary to procure a paying crop, as well as thoroughly working the soil. Farmyard manure is preferred. General Culture. — All the kidneys for early use are started into growth before planting out, hence the reason why they are not planted so early, it being neces¬ sary to have a little sun heat in the soil to preserve the growth already formed. I find later varieties do best when planted early, providing the weather is dry. All the names given are sorts grown here for years, and among many other sorts I have found these the most satisfactory in every respect.— Geo. Johnston, Glamis Castle. Kinrosshire. — 1. From 1st of February till end of March. Old Ashleaf, Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf. Soil. — Medium. 2. From 1st of March till end of April. Lapstone Kidney, Snowflake, Forty fold Red, and School¬ master. 3. From 1st of March till end of April. Regent, Paterson’s Victoria, Magnum Bonum, and Champion. Manures and Application. — For the first earlies I apply manure in autumn or winter, with a little ordinary farmyard manure well decayed, and at planting time I give some leaf soil. For my second earlies and iates I give ordi¬ nary farmyard manure, and sometimes the ashes of our primings and any other rubbish that will burn. General Culture. — Last year after the early kidneys were over I had to begin the late ones, as my second earlies were entirely destroyed by the disease. Magnum Bonum and Champion stood well.— John Fortune, Blair Adam. East Lothian. — 1. Middle of March. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf Kidney, *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf, Smith’s Early Round (syn. Smith’s Curly), and Coldstream Early. 2. In garden third week of April. *White Don (round), Early Fortyfold (round), *Grampian (round), and Covent Garden Perfection (kidney). 3. April to third week in May. Walker’s Regent, Victoria, *Scotch Champion, and *Magnum Bonum. Soil. — In good condition for from 2 to 3 feet in depth. Rich in lime, naturally deficient in phosphates and potash. Subsoil generally gravelly or sandy, in parts disintegrated trap. Geological formation (underlying) old red sandstone. Manures and Application. — For Nos. 1 and 2 for three-quarters of an acre (imperial) 2J cwt. superphos¬ phate of lime, 2 cwt. chloride of potash, 1^ cwt. sulphate of ammonia, without dung, employed in a fine condition, mixed with equal pro¬ portions of dry fine soil, sown along the drills as Potatoes are planted. No. 3 in field, per acre, 15 tons cattle manure, 3 cwt. best bonemeal, 3 cwt. superphosphate of lime, 1 cwt. nitrate of soda. In certain conditions 3 cwt. chloride of potash is added. Sown in drills. General Culture. — In the case of first and second earlies our treat¬ ment in the garden is noted ; in that of late varieties that of one of the most eminent farming families has been noted. A change of seed is found of great benefit with all kinds. Lawes’ “ Special ” Potato manure is used somewhat extensively. The ammonia in this manure is obtained from sulphate of ammonia ; it is adapted for the more loamy class of soils. — R. P. Brotherston, Tyninghame. Midlothian. — 1. Middle of January. Veitch’s Improved Ashleaf and Coldstream. Soil. — Warm light soil ; south aspect. 2. February. Grampian, Dalmahoy, and Regent. Soil. — Medium and dry soil. 3. March and April. Victoria, Champion, and Magnum Bonum. Manures and Application. — Manured for previous crop. No manure is given direct to the Potato crop. A dressing of lime previous to planting is beneficial. — M. Dunn, Dalkeith Gardens. West Lothian. — 1. From the 1st of March to the middle of March. Smith’s Round, *Veitch’s Perfection, Mona’s Pride, and ♦American Early Rose. Soil. — A free loamy soil, inclining to sandy subsoil. 2. Latter end of March. *Schoolmaster, Dalmahoy, *01d Round American, and *Myatt’s Prolific Ashleaf. 3. First or second week of April. *Magnum Bonum, Regents, *3cotch Champion, and ♦Paterson’s Victoria. Manures and Application. — One part cow dung, two parts horse dung, three parts old hotbed, mixed up with three parts leaves and one of stable litter, the whole thrown into a heap until it cuts with the spade, and spread in the rows when the Potatoes are planted. General Culture. — In choosing Potato ground the first point is to get the highest part, with, if possible, a south aspect, keeping the same well exposed to the wintry weather with the surface loose and rough, planting when the ground is dry, and before giving a final earth-up going between the rows with a fork and raising the soil, but not turning it over. — John. Motes, Dalmeny Park Gardens, Edinburgh. STRAY NOTES. MONSTERA deliciosa. This handsome Aroid deserves to be more generally known and grown than it is. It is not only one of the most useful and effective of ornamental-foliage stove plants, but is also greatly esteemed for the luscious fruit which it produces when the plant has attained a fair size. In order, however, to thoroughly ripen the fruit, a high and moist temperature is necessary, in addition to which the fruit must be exposed to the sun’s rays as much as possible. My principal object, however, in writing this note is not to direct attention to its fruiting qualities so much as to its great adaptability for planting out to cover bare walls in plant stoves and tropical ferneries. In a large tropical fernery under my charge I had two plants growing most luxuriantly against the end walls, the long roots of which cling and penetrate into the interstices of the brickwork and descend for many feet into the rock beds below. The peculiar appearance of its roots thus rami¬ fying and descending in every direction, coupled with the beauti¬ fully cut or slit-like formation of its handsome dark-green foliage, renders it a most desirable plant for the purpose I have mentioned ; especially so when, as in our case, the interior of the fernery is arranged as naturally and as informally as possible. I need scarcely add that this Aroid, similarly to its congeners, requires abundance of moisture. AMARYLLISES AT MESSRS. VEITCH’S. During a hurried peep through the plant houses at Messrs. Veitch’s the other day I was astonished on entering the Ama¬ ryllis house to behold such a magnificent display of new seedling varieties of these useful plants. The centre stage of this house was laden with a remarkably well-grown batch of these bulbs, nearly all of which were carrying a profusion of very fine and gorgeously coloured flowers. Both Messrs. Veitch and their able grower deserve the highest praise for their unceasing devotion to the great task of improving these, as well as many other races of plants. STAPHYLEA COLCHICA. My attention was drawn to a batch of this plant in flower in one of the plant houses at the above nursery. The plants were growing in small pots, each plant carrying on the summit of its stem, which was, as nearly as I can recollect, about a foot in height, clusters of lovely white blooms accompanied with bright green pinnate foliage. Judging from what I saw I should say this is a desirable plant for early forcing for decorative purposes. These examples had been forced. CAMPHOR ASSISTING THE GERMINATION OP SEEDS. It is, I believe, not generally known that most seeds are greatly hastened in their germinating process by beiDg soaked, previous to sowing, in soft water, to a pint of which a lump of camphor about the size of a large nut has been added. I have tried this experiment on many vegetable seeds, such as Peas, Beans, &c., as well as Palms, Ricinus, and various other tropical seeds, which we often receive with very hard testas, many of which would require soaking for a long period in the ordinary way ; but with the addi¬ tion of camphor, as before stated, only a very short period of soaking is required. When time will permit I intend under¬ taking a series of experiments relative to the value of camphor, &c., in influencing or hastening the germination of seeds generally, and will, with the Editor’s permission, communicate the results in these columns. — T. W. S., Lee. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. April 10th. GROUPS of Rhododendrons from Messrs. Lane & Son, Daffodils from Barr & Son, choice Orchids and stove plants from Mr. B. S. Williams, Anemones from Messrs. Cannell & Sons, and miscellaneous flowering and fine-foliage plants from the Society’s Garden at Chiswick, con¬ stituted the greater portion of the display on Tuesday last, and well filled one side of the conservatory. Fruit Committee. — John Lee, Esq., in the chair. The following were also present: — Messrs. G. Goldsmith, J. Willard, L. Lyon, J. Roberts, Wm. Paul, J. E. Lane, W. Denning, A. W. Sutton, R. D. Blackmore, L. A. Killick, J. Woodbridge, F. Rutland, James Smith, JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 304 H. J. Yeitch, Dr. Robert Hogg, and G. Bunyard. A cultural commen¬ dation was awarded to Mr. Mclndoe, The Gardens, Hutton Hall, Guis- borough, for a dish of Early Beatrice Peach, from trees which were started on November 22nd ; they were of good size and well coloured. Mr. Eyfe, The Gardens, Ditton House, Thames Ditton, was awarded a cultural commendation for a box of particularly fine President Strawberries, the fruits being large, well-shaped, and beautifully coloured. Messrs. J. Yeitch & Son, Chelsea, sent a dish of Morris’s Incomparable Apples in good condition. A vote of thanks was accorded to Messrs. T. Rivers & Son, Sawbridgeworth, for a collec¬ tion of sixty dishes of fresh well-kept Apples, some of the best being Betty Geeson, Melon, Beauty of Kent, Royal Russet, Lewis’s Incomparable, Clay gate Pearmain, Lord Burghley, Norfolk Beefing, and Blenheim Pippin. Floral Committee. — Mr. B. S. "Williams in the chair ; the other members present being Messrs. G. Hinton, G. F. Wilson, J. Douglas, H. Bennett, W. Bealby, J. Laing, J. Cutbush, T. Moore, Shirley Hibberd, H. M. Ridley, G. Duffield, Harry Turner, H. Ballantyne, J. Dominy, James McIntosh, W. B. Kellock, H. Cannell, H. Ebbage, and John Wills. A silver-gilt Banksian medal was awarded to Mr. B. S. Williams for a large and handsome group of Amaryllises, Orchids, and mis¬ cellaneous stove plants, amongst them being a specimen of Tricopilia lepida, a rare species, for which a vote of thanks was accorded. One fine specimen of Ada aurantiaca attracted much attention, as it was in excellent condition and bearing twenty -five brightly coloured spikes. A cultural commendation was awarded to Mr. Baxter, gardener to Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., M.P., Burford Lodge, Dorking, for a fine plant on a block of Brassavola Perrini with about four dozen flowers, the sepals and petals narrow and cream-coloured, the lip rounded and white. A similar award was also granted for Odontoglossum mulus bearing a spike of fourteen handsome chocolate-barred_flowers. A vote of thanks was awarded for a richly coloured variety of Odon¬ toglossum vexillarium, and some fine flowers of Lselia elegans Turneri were shown. Mr. Parr, gardener to R. Sturgis, Esq., Givons Grove, Leatherhead, was awarded a cultural commendation for two good plants of the small-flowered Coelogyne ocellata, each with some dozens of spikes. A bronze medal was awarded to Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons for a beautiful collection of single Anemones very diversely coloured, with flowers of Salvia interrupta, Nicotiana affinis, and a score of plants of the rich purple double Cineraria Mr. Thomas Lloyd. Messrs. James Carter it Co., High Holborn, sent four plants of Tro- poeolum tricolorum trained on a balloon trellis and well flowered. A bronze Banksian medal was awarded to Messrs. Collins, Bros, and Gabriel, 39, Waterloo Place, London, S.E., for an extensive collection of Anemone blooms of the Victoria Giant strain, and Anemone fulgens Dazzler, a brilliant scarlet variety, for which a vote of thanks was accorded. A silver-gilt Banksian medal was awarded to Messrs. Barr & Son, King Street, Covent Garden, for a very extensive collection of Nar¬ cissus flowers, representing all the different sections, and comprising a great number of varieties. Mr. H. Bennett, Shepperton, sent three plants of Rose Her Majesty, each bearing large, full, handsome, bright, soft pink blooms, of vigorous habit, and large foliage. A vote of thanks was accorded to Mr. H. Clinkaberry, jun., The Gardens, Forty Hill, Enfield, for a plant of Odontoglossum Andersonianum with a spike about 2 feet long, the flowers thickly spotted with rich chocolate on a white or pinkish ground. A specimen of 0. Wilcke- anum with large flowers was also sent. A vote of thanks was accorded to Mr. Ballantyne, gardener to Baron Schoder, The Dell, Egham, for a specimen of Odontoglossum Pescatorei Veitchii bearing a spike of ten superb flowers most richly blotched with crimson on a pure white ground. A silver Banksian medal was awarded to Messrs. H. Lane & Son, Great Berkhampstead, for a fine group of Rhododen¬ drons and Azaleas, all being well flowered. Messrs. W. Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, Herts, sent plants of a new Hybrid Perpetual Rose, Merveille de Lyon, which has full creamy white blooms of good shape, the plants very robust, dwarf, and compact. Messrs. James Yeitch & Son were awarded a vote of thanks for a basket of plants of Azalea rosseflora (Rollissoni), which has bright reddish pink or deep salmon-coloured flowers, very close and neat in form, and very free. Mr. J. Aldous, Gloucester Road, sent a basket and bouquet of Daffodils, Ferns, and Selaginellas very tastefully arranged. Mr. R. Dean, Ealing, sent several handsome Primroses, Magenta Queen and White Queen being particularly good ; with Polyanthuses Scarlet Gem and Orange Beauty, and Myosotis dissi- tiflora perfecta, a large-flowered form, and alba the white variety. A large group of spring-flowering plants was contributed from Chiswick, comprising Cinerarias, Spiraas, Azaleas, Ferns, Begonias, Tulips, Narcissi, Wallflowers, Primula rosea, Palms, and Isolepis very tastefully arranged. A first-class certificate was awarded for the following plant. Masdevallia Schlimi (Lawrence). — A most distinct species bearing two spikes, one with five and the other with four flowers, which are about an inch in breadth, the tails being 2 to 3 inches long, and bright yellow. The ground colour is yellowish, very thickly dotted with a peculiar claret hue. The leaves are thick and of moderate size, 4 to 5 inches long by inch broad. Scientific Committee.— Sir J. D. Hooker in the chair. Peas, (fc. — Mr. McLachlan showed Peas received from America attacked by Bruchus Pisi, also dipterous larval cases found about the [ April 12, 1883. roots of Dendrobium crassinode, and a beetle (Donacia sp.) with D. Devonianum, the two latter received from Col. E. S. Berkeley. Fossil Cone. — Mr. Boulger showed a specimen of Pinites hexagonis from the Gault, related to Pinea, which, like recent species, is still associated with Sequoia. Narcissus sp. — Dr. Masters showed specimens from Prof. M. F oster, amongst which was the rare N. rupicola from Spain. Sclerotia of Potato. — Mr. G. Murray replied to certain comments of Mr. S. Stephen Wilson upon his remarks at the last meeting. Mr. Murray adheres to his opinion that there is no sufficient proof of the mycelium arising from the plasm state, and asks, “ If a seedling be so severely attacked why is it perfectly healthy ? ” He cannot yet pronounce what they are without further material. Puccinia Buxi. — Mr. W. G. Smith showed specimen of Box badly attacked by this fungus, which will germinate on the slide in twenty- four hours. Greiyia Sutherlandi. — He showed drawings of flowers of this plant, pointing out the long and short-styled conditions, though the stamens were long in both cases. The flowers are provided with a circlet of glandular bodies of unknown purpose. Violets Killed by Cold. — Mr. G. Lee of Clevedon sent Yiolets killed by the late severe cold weather. Shrubs Injured by Cold. — Mr. Loder showed many kinds of shrubs severely injured by the late severe weather, the temperature having fallen to — 3° on March 10th. Camellia reticulata. — The Hon. and Rev. J. T. Boscawen sent a blossom, with the observation that “ it had been out of doors unpro¬ tected for years against a wall with east aspect. This Camellia is by far the hardiest of all. Not a leaf has ever been injured.” Frost at Lamorran. — He also sent a list of temperatures for March, the lowest of which was 22° of frost on Saturday 10th. Lecture. — The Rev.G. Henslow drew attention to some Azaleas, the forms being now innumerable, but the old A. indica was very rare at the beginning of this century. A. pontica appears to have been the species with poisonous honey, and which stupified the soldiers of Xenophon. It has been used in its native country east of the Black Sea for medicinal uses. Rhododendron ponticum was supposed erroneously to be the deleterious plant. A third genus, Rhodora, of which R. canadensis was introduced by Sir J. Banks in 17G7, is closely allied. Indeed, though called genera, they can all three be cross- fertilised, which proves them to be the same genus. Mr. Henslow then made some remarks on physiological affinity not always corre¬ sponding with morphological, in that plants may differ very much in structure, yet can be grafted or cross-fertilised. Thus Garrya elliptica is grafted on Aucuba, and Hibiscus will fertilise Abutilon. Tulips with Virescent Petals. — The lecturer called attention to a curious phenomenon sometimes seen in Tulips, in that a leaf or petal may be half green and half coloured and situated on the stem ; the coloured part ceases to grow, so that it checks the growth of the peduncle. This bends over, and may even crack and decapitate the Tulip. ORCHIDS AT HIGHAM HILL, WALTHAMSTOW. Orchids are a speciality at the above establishment. Although not a large collection, the plants are unsurpassed for cleanliness and good culture under the care of Mr. Gilks, the head gardener. Commencing with the cool Orchids, there are four hundred vigorous and floriferous examples of Sophronites grandiflora, several fine plants being suspended close to the glass in the Cattleya house, which Mr. Gilks thinks is the proper place for them, as the flowers and growths are almost twice the size of those in the cool house. There are also about one hundred plants in a vinery just started, which are also showing vigorous growth. Lycaste Skinnerii is represented by many beautiful varieties ; Aerides japonicum by about two dozen healthy plants. Masde- vallias are represented by the following : — M. amabilis, M. Yeitchi- ana, M. chimcera, M. coccinea, M. ionocharis, M. Peristeria, M. polysticha, M. Harryana, M. tovarensis, M. Nycterinia, M. bella, M. Backhouseana, and many others. Hundreds of Odonto¬ glossum Alexandra, O. Pescatorei, 0. cirrhosum, O. Rosii majus, O. Cervantesii, 0. Halli, O. triumphans, 0. Uro-Skinneri, and a plant of the true 0. pardinum and O. Edwardsii. In the Cattleya house are suspended in baskets about one hundred plants of Oncidium concolor with 250 spikes of bloom ; fine specimens of Laelia purpurata, Cattleya Mendelii, Mossias, labiata, crispa, Warneri, Loddigesii, gigas, Lmlia elegans and Dayana. Cymbidium Lowianum is showing a spike of upwards of thirty blooms, a fine plant of Dendrobium albo-sanguineum, D. Ainsworthi, Zygopetalum crinitum cmruleum, a fine plant ; several fine plants of Anguloa Clowesii, Oncidium macranthum, Odontoglossum Londesboroughanum, several dozens of Leptotes bicolor. Besides the Sophronites worth mentioning in the vinery are several fine pieces of Laclia majalis, growing in the full sun about 2 inches from the glass. The East India house contains healthy plants of Yandas suavis, tricolor, and Parishi, Aerides Lobbianum, A. crassifolium, A. odora- tum, Angracum sesquipedale, a dozen nice plants ; Angracum April 12, 1833. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 305 eburneum, Saccolabium guttatum Harrisonianum, healthy plants of Miltonia Candida, grandiflora, Paphinia cristata, Aerides Fieldingi, Saccolabium grammatophyllum and S. Ellisii, Phalae- nopsis Schilleriana, Odontoglossum Roezli, &c. These are only a few of the many fine Orchids grown here, and the collection is fast extending. One other point worthy of notice is the abun¬ dance of roots the plants have, which testify to Mr. Gilks’ ability as an Orchid grower. — A. Young. FENCING AGAINST RABBITS. I shall be glad to know what rabbits will not eat in the way of shrubs. I have a wood, aDd a garden of an acre and a half adjoining it. I have wired the latter in, but the rabbits still find their way in. I do not want to exterminate them altogether, but I should like to grow a few shrubs. My Roses are all done for ; Larch and Spanish Chestnut, nine-tenths are destroyed. Hazel when first planted has a bad time of it, and even Laurels and Rhododendrons are terribly bitten. When is the proper time to insert cuttings of Laurels and other shrubs — spring or autumn ? If any of your readers can help me in my trouble I shall be very grateful. — G. C. E. [We do not think you can possibly render your garden satis¬ factory if rabbits have access to it, and at present they must either be very numerous or very hungry to eat Rhododendrons. They can be excluded by wire netting if it be fixed properly. The best method that has come under our notice is adopted with great success in the woods of a large estate where rabbits abound. When simply sunk in the earth vertically, no matter to what depth, the animals burrowed under it ; but when the lower edge of the netting was bent at right angles (fig. 73), the flange facing Fig. 73. —A Rabbit-proof Fence. the point of attack, and covered an inch or two deep with soil, the netting was rendered rabbit-proof. These animals almost invariably commence scratching close to the netting, continuing perseveringlv until they can pass under the fence ; and as they do not appear to possess the sagacity for commencing their attacks G inches from it, the present method of fixing the netting forms practically a complete barrier, as not one rabbit in a thousand finds its way under the fence. If you adopt this mode of fixing your netting you may have flowers, shrubs, and rabbits, as if an animal by chance gets inside it may be easily caught. We have notes in hand on rabbit-proof trees and shrubs, which we shall if possible publish next week. Early autumn is the right time for inserting cuttings of evergreen shrubs.] WORK.FOhTHEWEEK.. ' ffjl mmmrm IK* \By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments .] KITCHEN GARDEN. The weather is now most favourable for operations in this department, and seed-sowing should be the order of the day. Broccoli seed should be sown for main crops ; the quantity must depend on the demand. In some cases a very small patch or a single short row of each variety may be sufficient, while in others a good bed of each may be required. Sowing a large quantity of one kind will never keep up a long supply, but small quantities of successional sorts will do this and give the greatest satisfac¬ tion. As these are given in every seed list we need not name them here. In all cases the seed should be sown on rich soil, and thinly, as the young plants may remain until they are planted in their bearing quarters. Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflowers, Savoys, and Cabbages should be sown at the same time ; plants from the latter will supply fine tender heads late in autumn, and we find that delicate well-grown Cabbages are just as much valued very late as very early in the season. The main crop of Carrots should be sown at once. A heavy retentive soil is not favourable to the production of fine roots, but a moderately rich open soil will always afford clean produce. A thin coating of soot, salt, or lime dug into the soil before sowing will generally keep it free from destructive grubs during the season. Cauliflowers from seed sown some weeks ago in frames should be hardened off as soon as possible, with the view of planting them out in the open. We find if planted when quite small they succeed much better than if kept in frames until they are 1 foot or more in height. If drills are drawn about 3 inches deep and plants about 3 inches high are inserted in them it is astonishing how fast they grow and how little check they receive. Celery seed for main crop may be sown under a handlight or in a frame. Damp soil suits the plants at all stages of their growth. Early Celery plants which have been grown in heat should be gradually hardened for planting out in a few weeks time. Leek seed may be sown now for the main crop. These are always transplanted and need not be sown in any particular place. Seed should be sown at once if not already done, as a long season is necessary to thoroughly mature this crop. Parsley is indispensable in every garden ; and in case of failure, which is by no means uncommon with this useful crop, two or three patches of it should be sown in different parts of the garden. Soil which produces clean Carrots will always grow fine Parsley. Now is the time to sow Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Seakale seed ; 18 inches from row to row, and 6 inches from plant to plant, are proper distances for all of them, inserting two or three seeds at those intervals. Crowding seedlings when very small, or in fact at any time, is ruinous. A small sowing of early Beet may also be made now ; the Turnip-root variety matures earlier than any of the long sorts. Turnips are most valuable in the early summer months, but if sown too early they are liable to run to seed before any useful bulbs have been formed ; but now the seed may be sown with certainty of success. The rows should be from 15 to 18 inches apart, and as Turnip seed always germinates freely, sow thin. Midseason Peas should still be sown ; and as they will be bear¬ ing at a time when the weather is generally hot and the ground dry, if sown in shallow trenches now these will be found very beneficial to the crops under the conditions just named. In light sandy soils good Peas cannot be secured in hot weather unless they are grown in trenches, but in heavy soils they should not be placed so far below the surface. All Potato planting should now be pressed forward. We are now planting our late kinds in rows 3 feet apart, and as soon as the autumn and winter Greens are ready a row of them will be put between every two of the Potato rows. Radish seed and Mustard and Cress should be sown frequently in small quantities at the front of a south wall. Harden off ridge Cucumber plants, and admit plenty of air to Potatoes now maturing in frames. Sow another good batch of Kidney Beans to precede the first crop in the open air. FRUIT FORCING. Peaches and Nectarines. — As the stoning process is being passed in the early house the night temperature at this critical period must be maintained steady at 60°, with a rise of 5° by day by artificial means, and a still further advance of 10° to 15° from sun heat. Where ripe fruit is wanted at an early date forcing should be carried on by an increase of the day temperature, raising the temperature early in the morning to 65°, and with a little air from-this point allow an advance of 10° to 15° from sun heat, with moderate ventilation, and close at 75°, increasing the tempera¬ ture to 80° or 85°, afterwards admitting a little air, and allow the heat to fall gradually to the night temperature, as the ripening of the fruit must not be accelerated by the maintenance of a high night temperature. Examine the trees twice a week, and gradu¬ ally reduce surplus shoots as well as surplus fruits. The experi¬ enced cultivator can not only tell which fruits are likely to stand, but, knowing the capabilities of his trees, will be able to determine JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 306 [ April 12, 18S3. the number each tree should be allowed to carry. As a rule, the fruit should be evenly disposed over the trees at the rate of one to every square foot of trellis covered by the branches. Nectarines should not have much less space, but from their smaller size are too frequently left much closer, which accounts for the smallness of these as compared with Peaches. Very vigorous trees may be allowed to carry more fruit, and weakly trees less — each individual must have its capabilities considered. Tying down the shoots must be carefully attended to, the aim being an equal distribution of the sap over every part of the tree, judiciously stopping gross shoots and terminals when they have made a fair amount of growth. Those shoots retained to attract the sap to the fruit must not be stopped too closely. Fruits which by their weight have taken a pendent position should be turned and supported with laths across the wires of the trellis in a way that will insure the exposure of the apex of the fruit to the full sun. Inside borders must be liberally supplied with tepid liquid manure, and mulched with short manure to prevent the escape of moisture and encourage surface-rooting. Ventilate carefully during the prevalence of cold winds, proceeding with disbudding and thinning in succession houses, plying the syringe freely twice on fine days, employing clear rain water not less in temperature than that of the house. Trees in late unheated houses are now in full blossom, and apparently are setting well, having passed through the trying ordeal uninjured. Melons. — Frost and snow have rendered constant fire absolutely necessary. As a preventive of red spider paint the pipes thinly with sulphur, encouraging plants swelling their fruits with a moist atmosphere and plentiful supplies of water or liquid manure at the roots, closing early, or about three o’clock on bright days, at 85° to 90°, allowing an advance to 95°. Afford supports to the fruits. Reduce the atmospheric moisture in houses in which the plants are in blossom and until the fruits have set. Add some more soil to advancing crops, and give air freely on favourable occasions to plants in flower. Attend to the stopping, tying, and thinning of the shoots as they require it. The lining of dung frames will require attention in removing the cold and replacing with fresh material. Cucumbers. — Those now in full bearing should be cropped lightly where fine fruit is aimed at, placing the fruit in glasses to grow them clean and straight, afEording copious supplies of liquid manure in a tepid state to the roots as they require it, and close early, using the syringe freely during favourable weather. Stopping, tying, and thinning will entail considerable attention, and must be promptly given. Where the demand is not great two or three-light frames will afford a good supply by planting them in succession and being careful not to overcrop, thinning out the old growths so as to induce the plants to make new. Have some light shading in readiness for bright and powerful sunshine. PLANT HOUSES. Palms. — These, whether they are grown in stove, intermediate, or cool houses, now demand attention, and should be repotted where they require it. Be careful not to overpot these plants, as they do not require so much root-room as many others. When turned out of the pots in which they have been growing remove the soil from amongst their roots if inclined to be sour, and add fresh compost. They will bear this treatment if done carefully, and the plants judiciously watered afterwards. If the soil and roots are in a healthy condition merely remove the drainage and loose surface soil, and then repot them in well-drained pots. In repot¬ ting press the soil firmly into the pots, and use a compost of rich fibry loam and coarse sand, to which is added one 6-inch potful of bone dust and the same quantity of soot to each barrowful of loam ; the last-mentioned imparts a fine dark hue to the foliage of these plants. For the finer-rooting varieties, such as Cocos Weddelliana, use a little broken charcoal and about one-third of peat to the above mixture. This also applies to any of these plants in a young state. Where potting is unnecessary remove the surface soil and top-dress with fresh, and either feed with stimulants during the growing season, or give two or three appli¬ cations from time to time of Standen’s manure. Water carefully after repotting until the roots are growing, and then give liberal applications. Climbers. — Whether grown in the conservatory or greenhouse these should, if not already done, have as much of the old surface soil removed as possible and fresh supplied. When planted out and confined at the roots, as is too frequently the case in such structures, it is only by liberal feeding and rich top-dressing that such gross-feeding plants as Cobseas, Passifloras, Tacsonias, Clematis, Abutilons, and others can be maintained in vigorous health. Plants of this description are capable of displaying much beauty when liberally grown, but when their growths are puny and stunted the opposite is the result. The compost for top-dressing these varieties should consist of good loam and at least one-third of good manure, while peat should predominate for Rhyncho- spermum jasminoides, Chorozemas, Lapagerias, and other similar plants. The latter, which flourishes much better when planted out than when grown in pots, should have soil of a light fibry nature. Passifloras, Tacsonias, and other similar plants can now be pruned well back, and the main shoots tied in closer than has been the case up to the present time, or that they will require while growing and flowering. Clematis indivisa lobata if out of flower can also be well cut back. The majority of climbers of this description present a much more beautiful appearance when their growths are allowed to hang suspended from the main stems in a semi-natural manner than what they do when tied in stiffly. Roses and deciduous Clematis that are employed as climbers, and have started into growth and showing their flower buds freely, should be liberally supplied with stimulants every time watering is needed. Hardwooded Heaths. — Those that require repotting should now be done without delay, so that the roots will have time to com¬ mence working again in the new compost before the sun has too much power. Those in good health should have other pots 2 inches larger than those in which they are growing. It is important that the soil be in a proper state of moisture before repotting, so that the plants will stand as long as possible without being watered after the operation is completed. The drainage must be carefully removed from amongst their roots, but the remainder of the ball must not be disturbed or the roots injured. Drain the pots liberally, and be careful to make the new soil firm, so that water will not pass readily through it and leave the old ball dry, or unsatisfactory results will follow. Do not pot the plants too high, and thus leave too little room to hold sufficient water to moisten the whole of the soil when watering is needed. After potting shade the plants from bright sunshine for at least a fortnight or three weeks, and keep the house or pit in which they are growing rather closer during that time. Exclude drying winds, which often prevail at this season of the year. Syringe the sides of the pots, and moisten the stage upon which the plants are standing several times daily, which prevents the plants drying so quickly, and watering after potting is avoided for a greater length of time, which is very beneficial in the cultivation of these plants. Keep a sharp look-out for mildew, and if it appears dust with flowers of sulphur al once. After potting, staking and tying may be proceeded with at once, but do not use more stakes than really necessary. FEEDING. Some weeks ago we sounded a note of warning as to the too early attempts to stimulate bees in spring. We said that it was much safer to continue stimulative feeding later on into the autumn, and to insure a plentiful supply of young bees to stand over the winter and to carry on the work of the colony into spring, than to commence forcing on the queens to lay too early in the year. No doubt we shall hear on every side of starved hives and chilled brood. Many commenced to excite their queens by constant gentle feeding towards the end of February and beginning of this present month. We saw letters in which the writers were rejoicing to see “ lots of brood ” in February. We were sorry to see it. The quieter the bees were kept the better it was for them. After such a mild winter it was to be expected that a frost would follow. It came — a chilling frost, causing the bees to huddle nearer and closer together. Where much brood had to be covered, the bees either perished from the effects of cold in trying to cover the brood, or, by deserting it, left it to be chilled to death. This must have taken place in very many hives all over the country. If this chilled brood be not cut out (a difficult matter in straw skeps), the presence of it in the hives as warm weather comes on must be disastrous. It may cause that terrible scourge to the bee-keeper, foul brood, to appear and decimate his stocks. The time has, however, now arrived when we may expect the advent of fine weather, and all hives should be carefully over¬ hauled directly an opportunity offers. Where brood has been chilled, the part of the comb containing it should be cut out with a sharp penknife, and it would render matters still more secure if all the combs could be sprayed with thin warm syrup in which salicylic acid has been well mixed. Dysentery may have been engendered by the long forced confinement to the hives, and the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. April 12, 1883. ] 807 \ application of the salicylic acid solution will act either as a preventive or as a cure. Before this long frost set in we had only seen that the bees had sufficient food to carry them on. We contracted still more the space occupied by each colony where practicable, gave extra warm coverings, and left them, intending not to commence stimulative feeding until the month of March showed what it meant to be. Now we shall begin to feed gently and continuously as soon as the weather causes full activity among the bees. The frost seems to have broken up, but a S.W. wind with rain is blowing at present date (March 30th). Care should be taken to provide a plentiful supply of aerated water, for a great demand will immediately ensue with the commencement of warm weather. Bees require large quantities of water when rearing brood, and they like it aerated. A dripping tap in a. waterbutt, or places where water can trickle and spray over stones, are favourite resorts of the water-carriers. We once arranged a broken pan which could only hold a small quantity of water, with some pieces of sandstone and bricks in it. This stood under a leaky wooden tap, which let the water drip drop by drop from a butt into which the rain water from a barn roof was collected. This proved a most favourite spot to the bees, the broken bricks, sandstone, and sides of the pan being at times covered by them. We now have a small stream, the overflow from a pond. This has been dammed up a few yards from the hives, and caused to overflow down a heap of ragged pieces of sand-rock. This is also a capital con¬ trivance, and much appreciated by the bees. In our former abode there were several ponds in close proximity to the garden, and here we have both ponds and streams, but the simple con¬ trivances nearer home are most valued and frequented. The water, well aerated, can be easily collected without danger of drowning by the bees. So much for the water supply. Now as to giving artificial pollen. Should we have warm sunny days after this long spell of frost, the fruit trees and other plants will soon render the use of artificial pollen unnecessary. But we may still have a short time during which it may be much appre¬ ciated. Pea flour is the best substitute for natural pollen, and is readily collected by the bees. The best way of giving it is to partly fill an old straw skep with clean deal shavings, and sprinkle a few spoonfuls of the flour over and among the shavings. This skep should be placed in the warmest and most sheltered spot of the garden, some 20 or more yards from the hives. We like to cover this skep with a garden light, or to put it in a frame with the light partly drawn. The glass keeps it dry and warm. In order to attract the bees to it when first used, we rub a little honey or syrup over the skep, and the sun soon brings out a strong smell, which invites the first bees passing by, and very soon a host of revellers will be tumbling and rolling among the shavings, collecting loads of the pea meal, and returning, white as millers, to be cleaned by their comrades at home. Where plenty of Crocuses are in flower we have amused ourselves and the bees by putting at various times during the day a good sprinkling of the pea flour in the tiny yellow cups. It is a pretty sight to see how the bees hover over the flowers to arrange the little pellets of meal, and then again dive down to add to the store. If you accustom them to come to one place for a time they will haunt that spot long after you cease to place the supply there — like Oliver Twist, asking for more ; but when plenty of flowers are to be found, or where the Willow blossoms are abundant, the artificial pollen will soon be disregarded. — P. H. P. BEES SWARMING. The bees of one of my hives swarmed on Sunday about one o’clock, and returned to the old hive in about fifteen minutes. In returning I substituted another hive with maiden combs in it in the place of the old hive, thinking that the bees would settle and go to work in the new hive ; but no, they left that hive at noon on the following day and went into a stronger hive. There was some fighting, but it was soon over, and now all are working together in full harmony. I am puzzled as to cause of this dis¬ turbance, and I cannot solve it. Have you ever known such a freak among bees 1 — A. M. [Yes, often. Your swarm was a “ hunger one.” Despairing of ever getting food at home, they resolved to leave it and cast themselves on the world outside. In hunger swarms every bee is dissatisfied with home fare and home life, and all forsake their hives never to- return. The queen you found crawling on the ground on Sunday was probably an old one unable to follow the bees, and this explains their return to the old place. If the queen had gone with the bees they would not have returned. The histories of hunger swarms are painful to read and think about, and apiarians should not add to their number by starving their bees. — A. P.] TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Bruant, Boulevard Saint Cyprien, Poitiers (Yienne), France. — General Catalogue of Plants. Thomas Painter, Smallwood, Stoke-on-Trent. — Catalogue of Dahlias. Ellwanger & Barry, Mount Hope Nurseries, Rochester, New York. — Catalogue of New and Pare Poses. J. Carter & Co., 237 and 238, High Holborn, London. — List of Farm Roots and Grass Seeds. %* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three questions at once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. Weather Notes (J. M.). — Thanks for your letter. We will readily publish the observations which you obligingly offer to send. Turf 1£ Pots ” ( T . II.). — These are very serviceable, as we have proved by years of experience. We hope to publish your letter next week. Training Vines ( F . J.). — Suspend the Vine a little below the front wire. Train the growths below the wires at distances of about 3 feet. You can bend the canes where you like after the wood has ripened. Syringe at present to encourage growth. Letters arriving on Wednesday morning cannot be satis¬ factorily answered the same week. Pruning Roses — Lilies (J. B.). — Full replies can only be given when questions reach us in good time. You are quite right, however, in your sug¬ gested method of pruning. Shorten the growths as much as possible to good buds at the base of the shoots. We presume your Lilies are single crowns. In that case the fertiliser will be of no service, as flowers will be produced before fresh roots are made. Cover the crowns with moss and keep the soil constantly moist. The shelf may possibly be too dry, and light is not necessary until growth has commenced. Culture of Water and Musk Melons (R.A.). — These require the same treatment as the varieties that are grown in this country, but will succeed in a somewhat lower temperature, and may be grown in what are termed cold frames in the summer. If you possess the number of this Journal of March 17th, 1881, you will find all the necessary details for growing Melons in frames. Au article on page 205 of that issue will be of far greater use to you than anything u’e can say in this column. It can be had from the publisher in return for 3Jrf. in stamps. Weather in Staffordshire (C. Roberts). — The insertion of the word “ week ” instead of “month,” in your note on page 279, was, as you suggest, a printer's error of a nature so simple that it was overlooked. Though it would not mislead, you have done well to direct attention to the error, which is thereby rectified. Destroying Snails (Snail). — There is no way of destroying these pests without first catching them, and ,heaPs °f bran, grains, fresh Cabbage leaves, half Oranges, minus the pulp, are the different kinds of bait that are used for attracting them, these to be examined a few times after nightfall with the aid of a lantern. Cannot you protect your Ferns by standing the pots on smaller pots inverted in saucers kept filled with water ? Snails we know like moisture, but we have never met with any expert swimmers, and we have saved many plants and seedlings by the simple method indicated. Camellias not Expanding (C. W.).—We presume the plants are in tubs or pots, and in this case we have no doubt that either the roots are torpid or the soil is exhausted. The plants have simply- many more buds, on them than the plants have strength to support, and hence the non-expansion of . the flowers. Had you removed a number of the buds in the autumn, those retained would have a better chance of opening. We are not, however, certain that they would have opened, because the examples sent afford evidence that the plants have been too dry at some time, which caused the petals to shrivel at the base, and when this occurs the flowers do not open freely. The outer petals, too, appear as if they had been injured by frost or extreme damp ; but the initial cause of the failure is at the roots. Cannot you remove much of the old soil and add fresh— half turfy loam that does not contain lime, and half peat with a free admixture of sand and bonemeal ? If you cannot do this cover the soil with soot, and water its virtues to the roots. A sprinkling of Standen s manure or bonemeal would have much the same results, but y-ou really ought to en¬ deavour to incite more vigorous root-action by fresh and suitable soil. Renovating Vines (G.). — Both Mr. V allis and Mr. V' ard gave you good dvice, and you will do well to act strictly in accordance with it. You have ot “ tried our patience ” in reading your letter, and we are glad to perceive you ave so far done what we believe to be light ; but while you have told us much ou have managed to omit just what we should like to know— namely, it the ew border outside and the fresh material inside are really permeated with I,' 308 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. L April 12, uses. surface roots. Vines may grow luxuriantly without any roots near the surface as yours did when the roots were 3 feet below it, and in such a case liquid manure would do no good ; but if the border is interlaced with roots near the surface, then the Vines, if heavily cropped, will be assisted with the sewage. You will find it advantageous to keep the surface of the borders moist in hot weather by covering them with manure. Heat and drought drive the roots downwards however bad the soil may be there, and however good it may be near the surface. Sewage is good for everything you name, but should not be given to plants in pots until they are root-bound and need more support than the soil affords. You must also test the strength of the liquid on some common plants in pots that you can afford to kill, and Cabbages in the open ground, before applying it to Vines or plants of value. Sewage varies in strength con¬ siderably, and there is nothing like a few experiments for determining the question of its proper dilution for your purpose. It is valuable for all, kinds of crops that require rich food, and the soil is tolerably well drained. Oxide of Iron for Roses (M., Liverpool). — We do not know that we can do better than quote what Mr. William Paul has said on this matter in his ex¬ cellent work “ The Rose Garden ” as follows : — “ Opoix, a French apothecary, attributes the superiority of the Roses grown for medicinal purposes, in the neighbourhood of Provins, to peculiar properties of the soil, which contains iron in considerable quantity. We know, by the research of chemists, that the petals of the Rosa Gallica contain oxide of iron ; and I have long thought that the iron which abounds in the soil of one of the nurseries here is an ingredient of importance in the culture of Roses. I would not say that it is indispensable, but beneficial, and am almost confident that it heightens the colour of the flowers. On turning up the soil its ferruginous nature is in places distinctly seen. In an undrained field adjoining the nursery the water frequently collects on the surface in the form of a thick brown liquid, like so much rust, which is covered here and there with a film, on which the sky is distinctly mirrored. When the soil in this nursery is hoed or forked, the rapid increase of growth of vegetation is striking beyond measure. This practice is known to promote growth in all soils, but the extent to which it does so here is, I think, due to the oxygen of the air changing the iron contained in the soil from a substance pernicious to vegetable life into one favourable to its development.” We have not had experience in applying iron to the soil ; if any of readers have we shall be glad to hear from them on the subject. But we know that some soils con¬ tain too much iron for vegetation, and it is important that the nature of the soil be ascertained before any applications of this nature are made. Clematis cirrhosa ( W. J. X.). — As we have a woodcut in hand of this Clematis, we give it (fig. 74) as it will indicate the characters better than mere verbal description. The flowers are small, white, and pendulous from the axils of the ovate or elliptical leaves, and are produced freely at the points of the branches. The species is related to C. calycina, and was first noticed by Clusius in Andalusia and Gibraltar, being also found in other parts of Spain. It is said to have been cultivated by Gerard in 1596, and was grown by Miller at the Chelsea Botanic Garden for more than forty years in the open ground. Though hardy, however, it is usually grown in a cool house. Chrysanthemum Crimson Velvet and King of Crimsons (Se¬ cretary). — We thought we had made it clear some time ago that King of Crimsons is not a new but an old variety. It is totally distinct from and many years older than Crimson Velvet. Whether the latter has been confounded with the former or not by the writer you quote we cannot tell, possibly it has. We should not like to say that he “ knows nothing about Chrysanthemums,” but we admit freely our belief that his knowledge of the varieties and their peculiar cultural requirements is by no means equal to your own. We have grown both these varieties, and we know of none richer and brighter in colour, Crimson Velvet being perhaps the more glossy of the two. This we scarcely consider a true reflexed variety. The majority of the flowers are reflexed, but well-grown examples incurve more or less. In fact, when it was first sent out by Mr. Salter (we think in 1865) it was said of it, that as it did not “incurve very closely it showed its colour well.” We have had partially incurved flowers, though we have never seen one sufficiently incurved for including in a stand of that section ; but we have seen several that could not have been excluded from a stand of reflexed blooms ; they were, however, too small. King of Crimsons, on the con¬ trary, we do not think possible to produce with incurved petals, nor have we ever seen it with tasselled florets like Triomph du Nord. As for its being a Japanese variety that is out of the question, as these forms were, we think, not grown to any extent before 1867, whereas King of the Crimsons was as well known in 1849 as it is now. We should not be surprised to learn that this very useful and effective variety is about forty years old. It is admirably adapted for specimens, and some very fine examples of it are usually seen at the South¬ ampton Show. Although we cannot publish your letter at present, it shall not be destroyed. We have had no complaint from the cultivator you name. Surplus Garden and Farm Produce (/. S.).— If you have no other land for growing Mangolds, &c., for stock than is shown in the plan you have sent— that is, in the walled kitchen garden, neither you nor anyone else can have any substantial surplus of either farm roots or garden vegetables for sale, if the family and stock be well supplied. Many owners of small gardens estimate garden produce at much more than its selling value. They have re¬ gard to the purchasing price, forgetting that in the majority of cases two profits have to be made before the vegetables reach the consumer, except in the case of a small local demand, and then the selling prices are usually low. If your fruit trees are in a fully productive state you may perhaps during some years have a little fruit to spare ; and you may possibly raise a few hundreds of very early Lettuces planted in the autumn close to those walls which have a warm aspect, and very early Potatoes may be obtained much in the same way. If you can get such crops as these ready a few days before the markets are well supplied you will find the advantage of enhanced prices. By working on this principle — that is, turning any special natural advantages that your garden may possess to the best account, you may occasionally make a few pounds off a comparatively small space ; but it is practically impossible for you to have any “ great portion ” of surplus produce of the different crops throughout the season. Your question on Potatoes as you have put it is unanswerable. No one can possibly estimate the produce per acre of “various sorts,” and in this case we should certainly not grow “ various ” sorts, but should find out oue or two varieties that succeed best in the soil, and grow these exclusively. If you could obtain, say, 3£ tons of Myatt’s Prolific, or 6 tons ot Magnum Bonum per half acre, you would do very well. If you turn to page 77 of the Journal, the issue of July 27th, 1882, you will find the record of a crop of the former of twice the weight we have indicated, and the manure that was used in producing it. This, however, was quite an unusual yield. In growing Potatoes or anything else as much depends on the skill of the cultivator as on the nature of the soil. If you have only two men — the figure you have made being so obscure that no one here can tell whether it is meant for a 2, 3, or 5 — you will not have to search long for work wanting doing. Climbers for East Aspect ( C . S. 7?. V., Surrey). — A trellis of stout wire will answer best for your purpose. Before covering the house front with Portland cement drive in iron staples 4 feet apart, leaving them far enough out to project through the cement, so that the wires can be fastened to them after it is put on. A row of staples at top and bottom and five rows between, or forty-two staples for each space of 20 by 24 feet. Strain the wire diagonally so as to make a diamond pattern, both for stability and neatness, and give it two or three coats of paint. The climber you mention is probably Ligustrum coriaceum, of a dis¬ tinct, compact, and very neat habit of growth, but for the beauty of its flowers and bolder appearance Ligustrum japonicum is decidedly preferable, only it requires rather more care in pruning and training to keep it within bounds. Four feet apart is close enough for the permanent health and vigour of the climbers, and this distance will enable you to have eight plants arranged in the order they are named — Lonicera flexuosa, the sweetest of all Honeysuckles ; Ligustrum japonicum (Japanese Privet), Jasminum officinale (White Jasmine, very fragrant), Escallonia macrantha, Lonicera brachypoda, almost as sweet as L. flexuosa, Berberis Darwinii, Jasminum nudiflorum (Yellow Jasmine, flowering in winter and early spring), and Ceanothus rigidus, quite 1 a"dy enough for an east aspect in Surrey, and very lovely in spring with densely clustering pale lavender flowers. One, three, five, and seven are deciduous, the others arranged with them alternately are evergreen. Let the growth mingle, and you will thus have a clothing of green foliage in winter, and the fresh growth and beauty peculiar to the other seasons of the year as well. Plant carefully as soon as possible in rich soil 3 or 4 feet deep and wide, and see that there is an outlet for rain water, which is apt to accumulate about the foundations of buildings. Top-dressing for Melons (IF. J.). — Soil saturated with urine is an excellent and powerful manure, and would form a good top-dressmg to any plants and crops that required more support than the soil in which they are growing affords. For Melons and Cucumbers bearing heavily, also Vines and fruit trees, Tomatoes, Strawberries, Chrysanthemums, and such-like gross feeders, it would, judiciously applied as to time and strength, be useful. You had better place a portion of it on the surface of the soil in which some common plant, a Zonal Pelargonium for instance, is growing, with the object of testing its strength. By this means you can easily ascertain to what extent the soil will need to be used with it for applying to more valuable plants. So long as plants are growing freely and satisfactorily they require no rich top-dressings, and it is not until pots and borders are crowded with roots and the soil partially exhausted that assistance in the form indicated can be profitably applied. In all probability your preparation will need to be mixed with three times its bulk of soil, and perhaps more. This is a point you can easily determine by a few simple experiments on plants in pots and garden crops. Names of Fruits (F. J.).— Cobham. Names of Plants (A. M.) . — The Primula is P. scotica, and the Narcissus is N. minor. (J. Smith).— Corydalis bulbosa. Flowers of two Dendrobiums have been sent us by a correspondent who does not give us any name or initials to which we can reply. The white flower is Dendrobium crepidatum, and the other Dendrobium pulchellum. (F. R. F.). — 1, Myrsiphyllum asparagoides ; 2, Callistemon rigidum ; 3, Eupatorium odoratum ; 4, Allium neapolitanum. Supering (M. B. I).). — A few days after your hive has its combs covered with bees a super should be put on it. Judging from your description of the state of the hive, we think it will be ready in about ten days for supering. The bees would enter the super more readily through the bars than through the crown holes in the wooden top if it could be fixed securely on the bars. Your hive appeal's to be very healthy and prosperous. COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— APRIL llTn. Business still remains better, with good supplies of indoor fruits and vegetables. FRUIT. Apples . s. d. s. 0 to 7 d. 0 Grapes . s It). 5 d. s. 0 to 12 d 0 » . . Apricots . per barrel 20 0 40 0 Lemons . case 10 0 20 0 . doz. 0 0 0 0 New Grapes .... ib. 8 0 12 0 0 o 0 Nectarines . dozen 0 0 0 0 Chestnuts . . bushel 10 0 12 0 Oranges . 100 6 0 10 0 Currants, Black . i sieve 0 0 0 0 Peaches . dozen 0 0 0 0 „ Red.. . j sieve 0 0 0 0 Pears, kitchen .. dozen 1 0 2 0 Figs . . dozen 0 0 0 0 dessert . dozen 1 0 2 0 Filberts . 0 0 0 Pine Apples, Eng lish ft. 1 6 2 0 „ 100ft. 0 0 0 0 Raspberries . ft. 0 0 0 0 Gooseberries .. . i sieve 0 0 0 O' Strawberries ... oz. 0 6 0 9 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 309 VEGETABLES. 8. d. S. d. 9. d. 8. d Artichokes . rt ozp.n 2 0 1 8 to 2 0 Asparagus, English bundle 12 0 0 0 Mushrooms i 0 1 6 Asparagus, French bundle 25 0 30 0 Mustard* Cress .. punnet 0 2 0 3 Beans,Kidney .. . 100 2 0 0 0 Onions . 2 6 3 6 Beet, Red . dozen i 0 2 0 Parsley . doz. bunches 6 0 8 0 Broccoli . bundle 0 9 1 6 Parsnips . . .. 1 0 2 0 Brussels Sprouts. $ sieve l 6 2 0 Peas . 0 0 0 0 Cabbage . dozen 0 6 1 0 Potatoes .. .. 6 0 10 0 Capsicums . 100 1 6 2 0 Kidney.... 6 0 10 0 Carrots . bunch 0 4 0 0 Radishes. . . . doz. bunches 1 0 0 0 Cauliflowers . dozen 2 0 3 0 Rhubarb . . . . 0 4 0 0 Celery . bundle 1 6 2 0 Salsafv . 1 0 0 0 Coleworts _ doz. bunches 2 0 4 0 Scorzonera 1 6 0 0 Cucumbers . each 0 4 0 8 1 0 2 0 Endive . dozen 1 0 2 u Shallots . . . . It). 3 0 o Fennel . bunch 0 3 0 0 Spinach .... 5 0 6 0 Herbs . bunch 2 0 0 Tomatoes .. It). 1 6 2 o Leeks . . bunch 0 3 0 4 Turnips .... 0 2 0 3 POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. ENSILAGE. {Continued from $>age 2 SO.) In opening this subject we remarked that it was of ancient usage. Professor Thorold Rogers has, however, lately given infor¬ mation on the antiquity of the silo, and in an article in “ Macmillan’s Magazine,” says, “ It is plain that it was known five centuries before our era.” It is mentioned by the poet Euripides, and described by nearly all the Latin writers on agri¬ culture. There is no doubt the use of it was known to the Jews in the time of the prophet Jeremiah, or at any rate so far as it related to the storage of grain in pits. Coming down to our time Burnaby, in his celebrated “ Ride to Khiva,” mentions that the grass in the Steppes of Russia was preserved for winter use, being buried in the earth. As we have before stated, it is a general practice in America to reduce the forage of any kind into the state of chafE before putting into the silo, as it packs and may be trodden closer. Our own opinion, however, is that in this country it is really necessary only in the case of Indian Com, Sorgum, and one or two other coarse-stalked substances, for the extra cost of labour entailed will prove enormous ; and satisfactory results having been obtained in this country with whole grass and other haulm or forage without chaffing, we think it may be well to pro¬ ceed on that basis, and that our forage may also be placed in the silo in either a wet or dry state just as it may be cut and brought from the field ; for a gentleman who has recently read a paper at the Botley and South Hants Farmers’ Club, Mr. F. Willan, says, “ Pits were filled last year, either wholly or partially, with grass cut and carried in the rain. I have seen myself a pit which was so partially filled, and I could detect no difference in the ensilage.” There can be no doubt but ensilage in the chaff state will be more easily removed from the silo than compressed grass or other fodder in the uncut condition, and likewise be more easily mixed with other food ; but the whole ensilage can be readily cut down by the hay knife as required for use, and not disturb or expose the remaining portion as when in chaff. We must now refer to com¬ parative value of ensilage for feeding dairy cows, fatting cattle, horses, and sheep with dry food and fodder, or such as hay, meal, cake or bran, &c. We, however, anticipated that more beneficial results from the feeding of dairy cows than other stock, in accord¬ ance with our idea. We have before us a statement made by a gentleman on Lord Walsingham’s estate, who took for an experi¬ mental purpose five pedigree shorthorns which had been fed daily with 6 lbs. of crushed Oats and 3 lbs. of bran, mixed with chaff composed of two-thirds Barley straw and one-third hay. He says, “ The five animals yielded on December lO'.h sixty-eight quarts of milk, which the lactometer showed contained 12° of cream. We commenced feeding with ensilage on December 11th ; besides the ensilage and chaff the Oats and bran were given as before in each instance. It must now be observed that on December 14tb, three days after the ensilage was first given, the milk had increased by two quarts, with a rise of 1° of cream. This went on until the 20th, On the 21st the cows gave seventy-one quarts of milk, with 11° of cream — another rise of 1°. New year’s day brought us seventy-six quarts and 16° of cream. On the 5th and 6th the increase continued ; so that on January 10th, when the test ended, the record was the same as on the 8th, when eighty-two quarts of milk with 10° of cream were obtained. It will therefore be seen, that although in the middle of winter the month’s trial when con¬ cluded, the milk return had been raised by fourteen quarts per day and the quality of the cream to the remarkable extent of 4°. Another trial in America is reported from an American paper, The Cultivator and Country Gentleman. In November and December four milch cows were selected ; two of them were fed on ensilage for twenty-one days, and the other two were fed on dried fodder well cured, and both being the produce of the same field and part of the same crop. At the end of twenty-one days the cows were changed, and those fed on ensilage were now fed on fodder and vice versa. During this test each cow, whether on ensilage or dried fodder, received 1 lb. of Indian cornmeal, lib. of wheat bran, and 1£ lb. of oilmeal at each feed night and morning. Each cow had all the ensilage or dried fodder they would eat. The cows were fed, watered, and milked at the same hour each day. The results in milk and butter churned therefrom were : — Milk. Butter, fts. ozs. lbs. ozs. Ensilage and'meal produced . 1456 8 .... 50 8J Dried fodder jand meal ditto . 1822 15 .... 53 3J Increased produce from ensilage . 133 9 .... 6 5 Most of our readers will think it important to ascertain the actual difference between ensilage and hay, and on this matter we find an excellent analysis by Mr. Francis Sutton, the analyst to the Norfolk Chamber of Agriculture, and was as follows : — Hay No. 1. Hay No. 2. Ensilage No. 1. Ensilage No. 2. Albumen . 7.40 10.62 11.71 10.43 Sugar, gum, oil, and extractive matter 11.15 13.65 20.86 23.33 Digestive fibre . 26.73 26.35 32.24 31.17 Indigestible fibre . 43.74 40.25 25.26 27.14 Inorganic and mineral matter . 10.98 9.13 9.93 7.93 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 After commenting on the fact that the soluble albuminoids or flesh-formers are, together with the digestible fibre, so much more largely present in the ensilage than in the hay, he says : “ These facts are of great importance, and well worth attention by stock- feeders, as it is evident that the occurrence of these nutritious con¬ stituents in a really soluble form is so much labour of mastication and digestion saved to the animals that are fed on such food as compared with dry hay. It is abundantly evident, so far as these analyses can show, that the silo has produced a succulent easily digestible food, full of aroma and nutrition, from a very poor quality of grass. Several experiments show that fatting bullocks also prove the advantage of ensilage if a fair portion of dry food, such as crushed Oats, Barley, or bran, is given with it.” We have yet another valuable practical benefit to be derived from the feeding sheep with ensilage, but especially ewes, both before and immediately after lambing ; and when we come to consider that in the winter months how injurious root food often proves for feeding pregnant ewes, it is likely to prove in the future what we had always hoped for and desired in such cases, to find a vegetable food equally valuable, or nearly so, to succulent autumn grass. In accordance with these ideas we find Mr. H. Woods stating in a lecture given by him before the Way land Agri¬ cultural Association, that Mr. Thos. Gayford of Wrotham, near Thetford, carried out a trial of feeding with ensilage on ten in¬ lamb ewes, one of which had previously been a very bad milker, and says, “ I am glad to report the effect of the ensilage food on the milk of the ewes is most decided, and the ewes gave an abundance of rich milk, which was of a golden colour and as rich¬ looking as if it came from the udder of a fresh-calved Alderney cow. And it is particularly noteworthy that the ewe which had always given so little milk on her previous lambings improved so 310 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ April 12, 1883. I I much under ensilage food as to give as much as any ewe in the general flock.” In conclusion we must observe that various great authorities have given some statements of their opinions as to the probable value of ensilage, none being decidedly opposed to it. Amongst them are Dr. Voelcker and Sir J. B. Lawes, with other celebrated chemists abroad, but their evidence and opinions are of a too lengthened character for our columns on the present occasion ; we have therefore chosen that our paper should only bear as much as possible upon the practical value of ensilage to the home farmer up to the present time. There is, however, a large and important future before us, in which a much greater number than have yet appeared will display their intelligence and researches into the subject of ensilage both of agriculturists, chemists, and others at home and abroad, which jwe hope to notice on a future occasion. ■WORK ON THE HOME FARM. Ilorsc Labour. — Horses have lately received little hindrance in the work and tillage required for both Potatoes and Barley as well as White Oats. We must, however, call special attention to the cultiva¬ tion and seed time for Barley. We like to till the land into a fine and pulverised surface for Bailey, but do not expect a good malting sample if the seed is drilled later than the 14th of April, nor if the land is deep and loamy and in too high condition, especially after roots fed off by sheep eating cake, &c., but still there in some safeguard in drilling 2g bushels per acre at 11 inches apart between the lines. On one of the best conducted farms we have ever seen on the range of chalk hills (reaching from the eastern counties down to Devonshire) all the corn was drilled at 12 inches, but especially up«n the white and shallow hillsides near the downs. Capital -malting samples of Barley had been produced on this system for the long period of forty years, during which had observed the cultivation, and on con¬ tiguous farms the corn drilled at 7 inches seldom yield a malting sample. We do not hesitate to sow the White Canadian or White Victoria sort instead of Barley on good tillage after the 20th of April, for in the year 1858 we had a remarkable illustration of the com¬ parative result of the advantage of growing these early varieties of White Oats, especially the Canadian, in preference to Barley. Part of a field being cropped with Barley and part with these White Oats the land being previously treated and prepared in the same manner was sown at the same time, at harvest the Oats were ripe three weeks earlier than the Barley. Upon threshing the crops the Oats yielded eighteen sacks per acre, and weighed 45 lbs. per bushel, while the Barley only gave nine sacks per acre of thin inferior grain. Both samples of corn were sold in the same market on the same day at 28s. 6d. per quarter. The value of the Oat straw as fodder was much greater than the Barley straw. The result of this comparative crop added to our former experience in the matter quite decided us in giving up the culture of Barley on loamy land in a high state of cul¬ tivation. We had noticed for some years previously and heard many farmers complain that they could not grow the Barley so good in sample as formerly even on bind soils well adapted for its culture. This arises in our opinion from two or more causes — first, Barley will not bear excessive manuring on any soil, but we fear that a constant repetition of the crop every four years has much to do with the ill success complained of. Hand Labour. — The men will be employed in cutting and stripping oak timber, the women in setting up bark to the poles. But we advise the home farmer or steward to use equal caution in cutting and clearing Oaks amongst the ornamental timber in parkland pas¬ tures, for unless to the practised eye it is very difficult to estimate the exact result of removing certain trees until they are down ; mistakes are often made in this way, but as they cannot be set up again the mistake is irreparable. On the other hand we know many parks in various districts so crowded with timber that it is more like coppice land, and the pasture for want of sun and air becomes sour and unprofitable ; and it is further objectionable, for it is useless for gentlemen to say we have magnificent trees in our park if they are hidden by a crowd of unsightly growth. Live StocJc. — On the vale farms the young lambs, whether Downs or Long-wools, will now feel the effects of the late frosty weather which reduced an early-looked-for crop into a later one, for the Rye and Grass in the water meadows were so severely checked in growth that they are later for feeding than usual ; still there is generally, where due care has been taken, either some Swedish Turnips still left, or other¬ wise, which is better, some of the Golden Tankard Mangold. The latter is the best for spring food, as the quantity of saccharine matter con¬ tained makes them not only fattening food, but if fed in moderation with Bean or Barleymeal is not likely to scour the animals either of ewes or lambs. The only thing against Mangold for wether lambs or tegs is that they produce stoppage of urine for lambs in high condition at half growth. On some farms stubble Turnips are grown instead of Rye, to be hurdled off just as they come into bloom. The hybrid Scotch variety is used for the purpose, and they stand the winter well and bloom later. The lambs running forward eat off the leaves and blossoms and do remarkably well. The roots, although only small, are passed through the cutter for ewes mixed with cake cakemeal, both ewes and lambs going out daily into the water meadows or early Italian Rye Grass. After the Rye or stubble Turnips are fed the land is ploughed and worked fine and drilled with Mangold seed and superphosphate without other manure, for when the roots are fed and the stalks, &c., remaining are ploughed in after cake feeding the land usually produces a full crop of Mangold. All milking dairies will now have a large portion of the cows dropping their calves at this time, and with well-bred stock the calves are valuable, especially of the Devon, Hereford, or Devon and Shorthorned cross, to go on and suckle for veal, and they are usually sold at a moderate price, for the dairyman gets rid of them at a few days or a week old, except a few heifer calves from the best milking cows to save for the increase of his own dairy stock. East Lessons on Dairying. — This is the title of a very useful little Ad. pamphlet by the Rev. Canon Bagot, LL.D., published by Messrs. W. H. Smith & Son, London and Dublin, who labours so commendably in improving the dairy industry, in Ireland especially. A significant hint has prominence on the title page of this manual — namely, that Great Britain and Ireland are now paying £14,000,000 per annum, or £38,000 daily, for foreign butter. The following subjects are treated in the pamphlet in a brief clear manner : — The dairy, cows, milk and milking, cream and cream-setting, Lavel’s separator, churning, colouring of butter, butter worker, salting and packing, calf-rearing, winter dairying, and dairy accounts. Landed proprietors and clergymen might well bring this concise and useful manual to the notice of the farmers and cow-keepers of their districts with mutual advantage. It is a miniature text-book on the important subject on which it treats. OUR LETTER BOX. Mustard in Fields (A. IF., Sussex ). — The best time for sowing White Mustard as a field crop is the end of March or beginning of April. The land should be clean and worked fine, also manured with 1 cwt. of, nitrate of soda and 2 cwt. of bone superphosphate pef acre ; 20 lbs. of seed will be sufficient for an acre sown with Bennett’s broadcast seed barrow. For a full account of the cultivation, uses, &c., of this crop we recommend you to obtain the back number of this Journal dated October 9th, 1879. Cream Cheese (Inquirer). — A first-rate article may be made from a quart of cream, to which add a pint of new milk. Then warm it in hot water to about 90° Fahr., and add a tablespoonful of ordinary rennet. Let it stand till it thickens. It should then be broken slightly with a spoon and placed in a frame according to size required — about 8 inches square is usual, and 4 inches deep, in which a fine canvas cloth has been placed ; and then it should be pressed slightly with a weight. Let it stand for twelve hours, after which it may be lifted out and replaced in a fine muslin cloth over which a little salt has been powdered. In a day or two it is fit for use. Or the cheese may be enveloped in small straw or rush mats after being powdered with salt. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. Camden Square, London. • Lat. 51° 32' 40" N. ; Long. 0° 8' 0" W. ; Altitude, 111 feet. HATE. 9 A.M. IN THE DAY. B « 1883. April. Barome¬ ter at 329 and Sea Level Hygrome¬ ter. Direction of Wind. Temp, of Soil at 1 foot. Shade Tem¬ perature. Radiation Temperature. Dry. Wet. Max. Min. In sun. On grass. Inches. deg. deg. deg. deg deg. deg deg. In. Sun. 1 30.321 43.6 40.0 E. 39.6 53.7 33.0 73.5 27.6 — Mon. 2 30.147 44.3 41.0 N.E. 39.4 63.2 29.8 98.4 24.7 — Tues. 3 30.215 45.7 42.8 W. 40.4 65.6 36.0 103.0 30.4 — Wed. 4 30.262 54.2 51.2 N.W. 42.0 64.0 42.8 96.4 35.3 — Thurs. 5 30.254 51.5 47.7 N.W. 43.4 68.9 40.4 107.9 34.5 — Friday 6 30.536 48.5 43.0 N.E. 45.0 66.3 41.8 102.8 42.3 — Satur. 7 30.670 42.4 39.4 N. 45.7 56.5 34.2 95.1 32.2 — 35344 47.2 43.6 42.2 62.6 36.9 96.7 32.4 — REMARKS. 1st. — Hazy at first ; dry, fair, and calm. 2nd. — White frost in early morning ; fine, bright, warm day. 3rd. — Fine and clear early ; 8 a.m. thick fog, and dark till about 10 A.M., after¬ wards fine, bright, and mild. 4th. — Hazy and dull at first ; fine, warm d \ very'calm. 5th. — Fine and warm ; wind in evening. 6th. — Fine and bright ; cold N.E.’wind. 7th. — Fine and bright, but cold. The past week has been remarkable for the extremely high temperatures by day, the maxima averaging 62'6° against 48-5° last week, and 42T° the week before. The nights have remained cool ; in fact the average minimum this week has been 36’9°, and in the week ending January 6th it was 43'2°. Of course from these remarks it follows that ' the weather has been very trying, the daily range averaging 26°, and being on the 2nd more than 33°. The barometer has been very high, and there has been no rain.— G. J. SYMONS. April 19, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 311 19 th Tn Chiswick and Turnham Green Spring Show. 20th F 21st S 22nd SUN 4th Sunday after Easter. 23 rd M [11 A.M. National Auricula Show. 24th TU Royal Horticultural Society, Fruit and Floral Committees at 26th W Royal Botanic Society’s Second Spring Show. A GOOD TIME COMING. 0 persons in a hypochondriacal frame of mind the words of our heading may have a mocking sound, hut to those of san¬ guine temperament they will be inspiring. We do not claim to belong to either section, being neither predisposed to de¬ pression nor undue elation, but endeavour to survey calmly the circumstances that bear on the matters in which we with our readers are interested. Dark days have been experi¬ enced by many. Seven years of leanness of the land must in the very nature of things have exercised an untoward influence on the industry of horticulture ; but have we not hope that we are on the dawn of a brighter future, and that the “ good time ” that so many have waited for so long and as yet so hopelessly is nearer than it was a year ago ? The past winter has been less unfavourable to the cultivators of the soil than several of those immediately preceding it ; and the present spring, though it has been marked by cold wave of pronounced intensity, may yet have happy results. The dry keen winds have purified the soil and rendered it amenable to working, while the low temperatures may prove the salvation of the fruit crops, and we may yet have a golden harvest. So it may be in the more important products of the field. With a bountiful yield of grain — and we think there have never been recorded nine bad harvests in succes¬ sion— the whole aspect of things would be altered and marvellously improved. Horticulturally speaking there are not wanting signs of increased prosperity, though they may not be per¬ ceived alike by all. There may be, and we fear it is a necessity of the case that there must be, some who feel the pressure of the past too keenly ; but taking a wide view of the subject, there is undeniable evidence of a better, firmer, brisker tone prevailing. The past plant¬ ing season has been one of the best on record : it is, indeed, questionable if there has ever been a period during which the planting of trees useful and orna¬ mental, including deciduous and flowering shrubs, has been so extensive as the one just closing. In the seed trade, which is of greater magnitude than many sup¬ pose, we have evidence that business has never been so brisk before as during the present season, while the sale of plants and flowers is certainly increasing. Indi¬ vidual purchases may possibly not be so large as of old, but the number of cultivators is becoming greater every year, and plants and flowers appear to be more and more appreciated as necessary adornments of homes and individuals. The foreign trade in cut flowers and popular decora¬ tive plants is now immense and growing, a greater aggregate amount being invested in the wares of the horticulturist than was ever invested before. The demand for large plants because they are large is less marked than formerly ; but for anything of special merit and rarity purchasers are readily found, and sums given that were unheard of in the “ good old times.” When we find two plants realising nearly £400 at a public auction, as was the case a short time ago in the sale rooms of Messrs. Stevens — namely, Cattleya Trianae Osmani 215 guineas, and C. T. Dodsoni 185 guineas, and a piece of a plant, as a piece of the former did, realising 107 guineas, we can hardly think we are living in the dark days of horticulture. We are compelled to add, and we do so with regret, that the prospects of trade are better than those of gardeners. We could tell of five hundred worthy and competent men now either out of employment or wait¬ ing in nurseries for engagements. It is well that this fact, for a fact it unquestionably is, should be widely known, as it may possibly be the means of preventing hasty action in relinquishing a charge lightly. A safe course is to move slowly in this matter, as it is better to endure now than to suffer afterwards. We know of only one remedy for this great excess of gardeners, and that is the employment of more bond fide labourers in gardens instead of encouraging and training so many young men to make cuttings and water plants. This would be better for all — for the young men themselves, who would find more lucrative employment,,; for employers, who by encouraging local labour would improve their districts ; while the bone and sinew would be kept at home instead of migrating to towns, too often to find worse homes than in their native villages. This, the plethora of gardeners, is the one defect in the otherwise good promise of horticulture in the future, for the industry, we are constrained to think, is entering on an era of prosperity at home and abroad. BEDDING-OUT. The season for bedding-out will soon arrive, and it is well to have things in order before commencing. Some gardeners do not decide what they are going to have in the beds until the plants are in the flower garden, and then they find they have less than was anticipated. A gardener ought to know in the previous autumn what the beds will contain for the following summer, with the number of plants required for each bed, and then inconvenience will be reduced to a minimum. A few hints on the planting of beds may be of use to young gardeners. I daresay that nineteen out of twenty, if set to plant a round bed, would go to the middle of the bed first, which is wrong, and it is very seldom a perfect bed is produced if commenced in that way. If a bed is planted properly it will keep a good shape. It must be always remembered that sufficient plants should be placed in the bed to cover it entirely, so that no bare earth is seen from the centre to the edge. I know many young men think that bedding plants will do anyhow ; or if they see a good flower garden the expression is, “We have not time to bother after the beds as you do;” but it really takes no more time (only forethought) to plant a bed well than improperly. Many flower gardens look unsatisfactory through he season owing to their being planted too No 147.— vol. VI, Third Series. No. 1803. — Vol. LXIX, Old Series. 312 JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ April 19, 18S3. hurriedly. I was once remarking liow bad some of the plants were looking through being put out too early, and was answered, “ Oh, we have not the time like you; we want to get ours done,” when they had not a twentieth part so much to do as we had. But those are the expressions we always hear when there are failures through carelessness. When planting a round, oval, or any other shape, mark out the distance from the side of the bed to where the edging plants are supposed to finish ; about 18 inches is a good distance, as that allows a double row of edging plants. Then draw a line round the bed, and in that line place the first row of plants. Plant the Pelargo¬ niums slantingly, as that causes them to grow more compactly. After the first row is planted work round with the next row, and so on until the centre of the bed is reached, finishing off so that the bed does not have a pointed appearance. All edging plants except Centaureas and those of a dwarf habit do best when they are laid sideways, as they are more easily pegged down. In carpet beds the design must be drawn first, then place in the plants as most convenient to the workman. — A. Young. DISBUDDING PEACHES. I do not know if Mr. Taylor has practised the system of disbudding Peaches or other trained trees as soon as the buds can be detected and picked out with the point of a knife or finger nail. I have adopted this method for many years past, often leaving only two shoots — one at the top to lead up the sap, and the other at the base, which is closely and evenly trained-in to supply fruit-bearing wood the following season. However, I never made it a rule to remove or retain any given number of shoots, but always have made it a point to have little denuding of wood or foliage during the swelling or maturation of the fruit. When the shoot to be left for next season has grown to the length required the top is nipped out, which aids in consolidating and maturing the growth. The fruit buds are also well thinned, leaving those best exposed to the light about an inch apart. By this practice I have reduced labour, always had trees in perfect health, and at no time from trees setting during January and February did I ever observe fruit dropping, or experienced any difficulty in having abun¬ dance to thin. But with late crops in unheated houses or where the structures have been crammed with the plants I have some¬ times noticed that all the fruits have not set freely. Having made the system so simple I have had no difficulty in teaching a youth in a few lessons to do the work expe¬ ditiously and admirably ; cordons, horizontal, fan, and other training all yielding to the system without difficulty. Plums trained on open walls I have had very satisfactory when treated as I have described for Peaches, but more wood was generally left on the trees to shelter the embryo fruit during inclement weather, then good crops were secured. I began this practice (by experiment) when an under gardener in Wiltshire, but have made the system pretty general since about 1864. I having undertaken the renovation of a very old garden last July, erecting new ranges of glass, and planting afresh the walls and borders with young trees, it is my inten¬ tion to adopt the system which has served me so well, econo¬ mised so much labour, and maintained a neat evenly balanced growth. With Vines on the close-spurred system I have picked out all the buds except what were really wanted, but never saw any advantage from the experiment. — M. Temple, Carron- house, Stirlingshire. THE GLADIOLUS. ( Continued from page 293.) I would advise in the choice of varieties that such catalogues as that of Air. Campbell be consulted, in which he follows the example of the Messrs. Vilmorin in specifying the earlier and the later-flowering sorts, and that the latter be avoided. Further, it is my firm conviction that many corms are committed to the ground that have no chance of growing. It takes con¬ siderable experience to know readily really sound corms. If a flakiness or scaliness appear in the circle round which the roots emanate decay is there within. If pressed firmly this bottom will often yield more or less, and it may sometimes be pushed quite up into the decayed heart of the corm, while the skin retains its beautiful silvery appearance. The latter, which tyros rely upon, is no proof at all of soundness. I have returned this year to two quarters of imported corms of 1881 varieties badly affected, but most deceitfully beautiful. The decay of the interior is sometimes to be learned from a livid colour round the eye, from -which the new shoot ought to spring, or round the base of the old stem. Sometimes a smaller or larger discoloured blotch on the side of the root tells the same tale. Completely, or at least sufficiently, baring the corm is necessary to arrive at the truth, and this I never hesitate to do. In all such cases as the above healthy growth is hopeless ; at best a feeble effort, but defers the evil day. To the bulblets then — certainly not to perpetuation of the corms — we, in Scotland at least, must look. Here occurs to me a fact worth mentioning. Everyone who has really practised the culture of the Gladiolus must have observed how of some variety now and then one plant, not necessarily the most likely, produces a spike that in colour and form surprises him. In giving me at the Edinburgh Show last year a warm nvitation to Newfield, Mr. Gray as one inducement promised to show me a spike of Lacepede, which, to quote his own forcible words, “ will make you jump.” It certainly surprised me, and re¬ minded me of one I had some years ago. No others have ever approached them that I have seen anywhere. Like instances crowd upon me. Judged by such standards I have never had in perfection but one Ambroise Verschaffelt, one A. Brongniart, one Horace Vernet, one Lacepede, one Legouve, one Mary Stuart, and not one Madame Desportes. I did not see a really good specimen of A. Brongniart last year. Madame Desportes I have given up as hopeless ; besides being one of the worst keepers I never had it good. Last autumn a spike of William Cunninghame astonished me. That root is gone, but I have a few bulblets from it. My neighbour has had that variety for a year or two, but has never had one sample to compare with mine in refinement of colour, size of bloom, or length of spike. He has vowed to discard Henry XIV. for the last two years. It has never been worth keeping with him. I had a Schiller last season superior to any -we have, ever seen. I have never had Le Vesuve worth looking at. My friend two years ago had one that haunts our memories. I could easily multiply such instances. I advance as a solution that there are in commerce what for want of a better term I shall call “ strains ” of the same variety of Gladiolus, and that a majority, by no means an inconsiderable one, of the roots we plant, where these have not retrograded in our own hands, are the developed bulblets of corms that have more or less advanced in deterioration. On what other supposition are these departures from the original excellence of a variety to be explained ? It cannot be merely from some fortuitous con¬ dition occurring in a strictly uniform treatment. I shall be glad were the subject deemed worthy of consideration in your columns. Meanwhile, on the supposition that I am correct, I would make the suggestion to my brother amateurs — others of professional experience may practise such caution already — that they carefully preserve the cormlets of such plants alone as produce perfect flowers if they are to be satisfied with the Gladiolus only in perfection. But I fancy that this is a much farther-reaching topic than we amateurs realise, and embraces the whole field of propagation. We know how advice is urged that we propagate several flowers by cuttings only from healthy plants producing properly formed and coloured blooms. If my memory serve me right this was not very long ago sug¬ gested in the Journal in taking buds of Roses only from a shoot that had produced a perfect flower. And I suspect we ought in every case to adhere rigidly to such counsel. How does this impinge upon such a question as “ strains ” of the Auricula ? Are not offsets of General Niel, Glory, Lovely Ann, White Rival likely — nay, may I not say certain — to JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. April 19, 1883. ] 313 inherit the debilitated constitution, the deformed frame, the sickly pallor of an unhealthy parent, and to perpetuate in and through themselves the abnormal declensions of their pro¬ genitor ? Mr. Gray told me that he destroyed his whole stock of one variety of Gladiolus as it was never satisfactory, and obtained it elsewhere. I had a few years ago to throw out all that I had of the Pansy David Caven, which, treat it as I would, never gave me a proper flower. It is nothing uncom¬ mon to hear varieties of this and of other flowers denounced or spoken slightingly of by some which others highly esteem and show in capital form, and that in places closely adjoining. And I was told last year of one Auricula that will not form plants of any size with an experienced cultivator, the variety being in general robust enough. I submit, gratefully subject to correction by more competent authorities, the above theory as an attempt at solving an undoubted fact and a seeming mystery. But I have strayed perhaps too far from my more immediate subject. I offer no apology for expressing opinions distasteful perhaps to some, welcome I trust to many, as truth should be to all, very saddening to myself, who hold the Gladiolus when in perfection to be peer¬ less among flowers in commanding beauty. If I have framed a Strong indictment, the charge of high misdemeanour for which the bewitching traitress is arraigned before the tribunal of your readers is notoriously flagrant, and is assumed to be well established. Be it distinctly understood that no evidence for the defence can be admitted as valid obtained from any of her family whose term of residence in this country is not sufficient to entitle them to rank as naturalised citizens of the realm, or from any of her kindred whatever with whom the witness has not had at the least a second or third year’s acquaintance. We must worship Truth before Flora, and our faithful devo¬ tion to the latter cannot ultimately suffer from our love and adoration of her diviner sister. Therefore, as a closing word, let me tell my friends, in Scotland at any rate, who long to add the Gladiolus to their other favourites what is before them. The field is open to all, but, so far as experience has gone, they will under present conditions discover that while it is beyond com¬ pare a thing of beauty, its culture will not prove a joy for ever. — A Northern Amateur. they saw in a house of Gros Colmans, one describing it as amazing, another as astonishing, and a third as murderous — a term that will be well understood as indicating that no Vines could perfect such an exhausting weight of produce. Almost every gardener who saw this crop in September believed it was impossible the Grapes could colour and finish well. As I was almost alone in ruling to the contrary, I may as well state why I felt certain the crop would ripen, as a verdict without a reason for it is of little worth. Heavy as was the crop, and at the first glance crushing, yet a closer inspection showed it was safe. The evidence of this to my mind was the stout sub-laterals that were bristling from the growths beyond the bunches. These denoted that the fruit was not receiving the whole of the strength of the Vines, but that there was a reserve left for the prolongation of growth. This should always be so. If, when Grapes approach the colouring NORTHWARDS— CLOVENFORDS. Fig. 75— Lady Downe’s Seedling as grown at Clovenfords, the shoulders being trimmed off. Weight about 4 lbs. GRAPE-GROWING EXTRAORDINARY. As our Belgian friends have provided matter of interest to British readers in the great Exhibition of plants at Ghent, which is reported in another column, it will not be inappropriate as a quid pro quo to submit for the perusal of the skilled conti¬ nentals a description, however feeble, of an example of culture in another form, that, I do not hesitate saying, was fully equal in its way to anything that has ever been seen even in horticultural Belgium. They have provided a great spectacle of plants, many of them of marvellous beauty and commanding merit ; but much as their best specimens astonished those English visitors who saw them for the first time, the remarkable example of Grape culture now under notice would have equally astonished the most expert of Belgian cultivators had they seen the crop that haunts my memory as one of the most splendid achievements in practical horticulture that it has been my good fortune to see in any country. A great and growing interest in Grape-culture exists in Belgium now. Last year an enthusiastic amateur of that thrifty nation visited England with the object of seeing some of the best ex¬ amples of Grapes growing in our island. Among other places he went to Clovenfords, and although he was much too early to see the crops to advantage, his verdict was a shout of amazement — “ Bon! Bon! Nagnifique ! ” The verdict of some of the best of British gardeners who saw the crops in September was of the same character. They were astounded by the weight of fruit stage, the laterals cease growing entirely, we may be certain that the crop is too heavy, and the fruit will either fail to colour or to swell freely or regularly, or, if possible, there is a still worse alternative — it may shank. A crop of fruit is to the tree bearing it what the “ governors” are to the steam engine. If there is a surplus of steam in the cylinder, or, what amounts to the same thing, a relief of pressure of the load that is being dragged along or driven, the governors at once rise, extend to a horizontal position, and move with great rapidity. If the power of the steam is taxed to the utmost by the resisting pressure, down fall the indicators, which revolve slower and slower until the whole machinery stops, unless the pressure is relieved. It is precisely so with a crop of Grapes. The fruit must first be supported, and not until it has had its share of sustenance is there a further ex¬ tension of growth. If the crop is light in proportion to the strength of the Vines lateral growths will extend freely and move JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 314 quickly ; but if, when the fruit is swelling, there is no further growth — no young laterals — we have clear proof that the pressure of the crop is too great, and unless this pressure is relieved by removing some of the bunches either the fruit will fail to swell, ripen, or finish well, or the Vines will be injured. So long as a Vine continues growing with easy freedom it is not overcropped, let the crop be as heavy as it may, but if it ceases growing when the fruit is swelling it is too heavily weighted, however apparently light a crop. Such are the thoughts that have arisen from an inspection of this wondrous house of Grapes in the cele¬ brated Tweed Vineyard, and it may possibly be of service to some reader to “think aloud” on a matter which is undoubtedly of considerable importance. But to the description of this world-famed establishment. Its situation is undoubtedly beautiful — a depression sheltered in the not very remote distance by a grand range of hills. The soil, judging by the natural vegetation, does not appear to be of a particularly fertile charcter, and the surprise becomes the greater, and the skill of the cultivator the more striking, when we enter the houses and see the remarkable crops of fruit. Altogether there are fourteen glass structures heated by twelve boilers and five miles of piping. This indicates that the houses are not small. Two lean-to’s are each a thousand feet long, but the most imposing are the five grand span-roofs, each 200 feet long, 18 feet wide, and the same in height, with very steep roofs, having an angle of, perhaps, 70° or 80°, and the glass reaching almost to the ground. Two of these houses are planted with GrosColman, two with Lady Dowme’s Seedling, and one a mixed house, a great por¬ tion of one side being covered with the noble Duke — the Duke of Buccleuch, and the remainder with Black Hamburghs. A half¬ span house is furnished mainly with Alicantes, and some other large structures are occupied with a grand lot of Orchids. The Grapes, however, demand primary notice. The crop of the sea¬ son was estimated at six tons, and it is a question if that quantity was not considerably exceeded. In one house alone the crop of Gros Colman was computed at 1000 Tbs., and in the others of the same variety at 3500 lbs., or nearly 3^ tons in the two structures. A pound bunch was ex¬ tremely difficult to find here, but hundreds must have weighed from 3 to 4 lbs. each— handsome well-shaped examples with huge berries, not angular clusters with great shoulders jutting out that we often see now-a-days, for the sufficient reason that such monstrosities cannot be packed for enduring a four-hundred-miles journey and arrive at their destination in the best condition for sale. This is a matter of vital importance, for bad packing is the great cause of the low prices that so many amateurs obtain for their produce. The Vines under notice are planted inside, the roots having access to outside borders. Many of the Vines had been parti¬ ally lifted in the autumn outside, the inside border having been surfaced with loam and dressed with H ton of Mr. Thomson’s manure. Into this the roots had come, forming a dense network of white fibres, visible enough by rubbing off a film of surface soil with the hand, revealing undoubtedly the secret of the ex¬ traordinary weight of magnificent fruit. This inside border, too, it may be added, was almost as hard as if it had been the drill ground of a regiment of soldiers ; in fact, had it been light and soft the millions of bristling fibres would not have been there. Few of the Vines are confined to one rod ; some have two, some three, others four or five. The house was originally planted with the present variety and Alicante alternately, but the latter proving the least satisfactory was eventually removed and the spaces occupied with extra rods of Gros Colman. These are trained about 3 feet apart, none of them at wider intervals, but many of them were nearer 2 than 3 feet asunder ; but then there is this important proviso, the laterals were not crowded. Every leaf had room to develope under the direct action of light, and wher¬ ever the sun could reach a leaf was provided to receive its rays. This is the great desideratum in Vine-dressing — no foliage that the sun cannot reach, and no great gaps between the leaves through which the rays pass. Stiff stilted advice for stopping the laterals at so many leaves beyond the bunch, neither one more nor less, is little short of pedantic, and the distance for training the rods and the laterals can be easily determined by the size of the leaves. Vines trained on this principle, with a firm border netted with roots, like a bed of couch, having an abundant supply of proper food, bear such crops as some persons who fail conceive incredible. For example, on a portion of one rod the foliage of which covered a space of 6 feet by 3, there were ten bunches of Grapes that I am positive weighed in the aggregate more than 20 tbs. I willingly excuse anyone who may conceive this to be an error in judg¬ ing weights. I have made no mistake for all that, but have [ April 19, 1883. recorded an absolute fact ; indeed, I have no doubt that the crop within the space named weighed 25 lbs. This is Grape-growing, for the berries were as fine as the bunches and the crop. Gros Colman is the variety still under notice. I will now state, what to many will be still more difficult to admit, that on a similar space in another house there was about the same weight of that magnificent Grape the noble Duke ; but more of this anon. Less imposing, but not less remarkable, was a house of Lady Downe’s containing two thousand bunches that would weigh as many pounds, shapely as if cast in moulds, and in the best possible condition for quick and safe packing, while the berries were as regular and fine as the bunches were symmetrical. As every¬ body, presumably, has not yet seen Mr. Barron’s new work on the Vine, the engraving, fig. 75, will show the character of the en¬ gravings, and at the same time that of Lady Downe’s Grapes as grown by Mr. Thomson, for the bunches represented were grown at Clovenfords. “What! two bunches on one lateral!” does someone exclaim with horror. Yes. Why not two pretty bunches weighing 2 lbs. each instead of one awkward cluster weighing 4 lbs. ? The cultivator of the Grapes figured knows why. He knows that while one sample would not be more exhausting to the Vine than the other, this compact pair will reach London in better condition than one ill-formed cluster of the same weight would, and realise more money. And as to the dread of two bunches on one lateral, it must be remembered that some Vines will carry these more easily and safely than others will a crop at the rate of one bunch of the same size to two laterals. The question of cropping is a question of the condition and constitu¬ tion of the Vine. A weak, ill-supported, immatured rod can no more carry a weight of Grapes equal to a rod of the opposite character than a worn-out cab horse, value 30s., can draw a load equal to that of a strong well-conditioned brewers’ dray animal value £100. I have more to say about Clovenfords, but when I shall say it nobody knows, for when these notes appear I expect to be among the Belgians, and they are, to use a not over-elegant yet ex¬ pressive phrase, such “jolly good fellows,” that there is a little uncertainty when I shall get “back to old England again.” — J. Wright. LILY OF THE VALLEY— HOME-GROWN CLUMPS. The details of growing Lily of the Valley for early forcing have been given several times in the pages of this Journal during the past few years. However, I may briefly state that our “ clumps ” are not forced until they have passed a season in pots. We grew them for several years in pots, and under this system have them full of flower spikes and foliage. I send a specimen of the foliage of plants just going out of flower (our latest batch), and which I think the Editor will bear me out in saying ought to produce fine spikes next year. — B. P. Brotherston. [We have never seen such stout dark green foliage, which re¬ sembles that of the Eucharis. The leaves before us measure 9 inches long, and as nearly as possible 4 inches wide, the leafstalks being three-quarters of an inch in circumference. Each of the faded spikes of flowers contains eighteen bells. Certainly such vigorous plants “ought to produce fine spikes next year.”] GHENT INTERNATIONAL SHOW. April 14th to 22nd Every five years horticulturists from almost every nation in Europe assemble in Ghent, and plants from nearly every clime are arranged in the casino and gardens, forming the Quinquennial Exhi¬ bitions that have long enjoyed such wide celebrity. These famous Shows are held under the auspices of the Royal Agricultural and Horticultural Society of Ghent, which was formed fifty-five years ago, and held its first Show of fifty plants in a smoke room. The progress that has been made by the Society, and the work it was established to promote, has been marvellous. From the very small beginning that was made truly great results have been achieved. The pioneers of the organisation were few, and we believe not powerful, except by their capacity for labour, and the skill of subsequent adherents in administration, for the Society is now strong, and that it is rich is evident by the very large amounts that have been provided for the medals that constitute the prizes at these exhibitions. But in addition to its own funds substantial grants are made by the province of Flanders, the municipal authorities of Ghent, and by the Government. It appears to be the custom of the latter to make a grant to any public object to which the communal and civic authorities subscribe, to the extent of one-third of the amount — that is to say, should those authorities each subscribe 20,000 francs towards a public park, statue, or horticultural exhibition, the Government would grant 10,000 francs. We have not yet adopted this method of raising money in England April 19, 1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 315 for similar objects, nor is there much hope of the nation becoming “ educated ” sufficiently to acquiesce in such a disposition of the public funds ; and there are also invariably special donors, including the King and Queen, who provide liberally in a few classes. Under these circumstances it is not surprising that imposing schedules are arranged, that of the present Show containing nearly three hundred classes, nor that the number and value of the medals amount to a somewhat formidable total, though it must be admitted that the sum appears greater as represented in francs of lOtZ. each than it would in pounds sterling. Nearly nine hundred medals are enumerated in the schedule of the present Exhibition, of which about 130 are gold, the aggregate value of the latter being 17,000 francs. Objects of art are also provided in two classes, and we observe one money prize of five hundred francs offered by the Federation of Belgian Horticultural Societies. The six silver cups, too, offered by Mr. Bull add mate¬ rially to the prize list, so that altogether the aggregate value of the prizes offered on the present occasion amounts to 30,000 francs. This sum, however, was not all disbursed, for it would have been little short of a miracle had there been competition in every class of a schedule so comprehensive. Such, then, is the provision made for the eleventh Quinquennial Exhibition of the Royal Horticultural Society of Ghent. Before recording the results we may not unfittingly glance at the character of these shows. As has been stated on previous occasions, Belgian exhibitions are managed very different from gatherings of the same nature in England. They are, in fact, great ceremonial floral fetes, in which the military figures prominently, and banquets, meetings, receptions, operatic performances,