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Marine Biologrcal Laboratory Library
Woods Hole, Massachusetts

(VOYAGES - OF - EXPLORATION

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Collected
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Newcoms Tuomrson Montgomery

(1907-1986)

Philadelphia architect, nephew of
Thomas Harrison Montgomery (1873-1912),
MBL investigator, and Priscilla Braislin

Montgomery (1874-1956), MBL Ihrarvan.

Gift of thar sons Hugh Montgomery, MD.
and ‘Raymond B. Montgomery —~ 1987.

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TOURNEY

FROM

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PRINCE OF WALES'S FORT.

PRINTED FOR P, BYRNE, No. 108, AND J. RICE,

GRAFTON-STREET,
1790.

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FROM

PRINCE OF WALES’S FORT,
IN HUDSON’ S: BAY,

TO

THE NORTHERN OCEAN.
UNDERTAKEN
BY ORDER OF THE HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY.
FOR THE DISCOVERY OF

COPPER MINES, ANORTH WEST PASSAGE, &.
Inthe Years 1769, 1770, 1771, & 1772.

By SAMUEL HEARNE.

DUBLIN:

PRINTED FOR P, BYRNE, No. 108, AND J. RICE,
GRAFTON-STREET,

1790.

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FAL ema a aang doce amet ng Ti Reena Ame,
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SAMUEL WEGG, Efq. Governor,
Sir JAMES WINTER LAKE, Deputy Governor,
AND

THE REST OF THE COMMITTEE

OF THE HONOURABLE

HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY.

HONOURABLE SIRS,

A the following Journey, was undertaken
/ at your Requeft and Expence, I feel it
no lefs my Duty than my Inclination to ad-
drefs it to you; hoping that my humble En-
deavours to relate, in a plain and unadorned

Style, the various Circumftances and Remarks

a which

lv DEDICATION.

which occurred during that Journey, will
meet with your Approbation.

Tam, with much Efteem and Gratitude,
HONOURABLE SIRS,

Your moft obedient, and

moft obliged humble Servant,

SAMUEL HEARNE.

PREFACE.

R. Datrymp_e, in one of his Pamphlets
relating to Hudfon’s Bay, has been fo ve-
ry particular in his obfervations on my Journey,
as to remark, that I have not explained the con-
ftruction of the Quadrant which I had the mis-
fortune to break in my fecond Journey to the
North, It was a Hadley’s Quadrant, with a
bubble attached to it for an horizon, and made by
Daniel Scatlifof Wapping. But asno inftrument
on the fame principle could be procured when I
was fetting out on my laft Journey, an old EI-
ton’s Quadrant, which had been upwards of thir-
ty years at the Fort, was the only inftrument I
could then be provided with, in any refpect pro-
per for making obfervations with on the land.
Mr. Dalrymple alfo ebferves, that 1 only in-
ferted in my laft Journal to the Company, one
obfervation for the latitude, which may be true;
but I had, neverthelefs, feveral others during
that journey, particularly at Snow-bird Lake,
Thelwey-aza-yeth, and Clowey, exclufive of that
mentioned in the Journal taken at Conge-catha-
whachaga. But when I was on that Journey,
a 2 | and

Ee ae ee WAG Rg

and for feveral years after, I little thought that
any remarks made in it would ever have attract-
ed the notice of the Public: if I had, greater
pains might and would have been taken to ren-
der it more worthy of their attention than it now
is. At that time my ideas and ambition extend-
ed no farther than to give my employers fuch an
account of my proceedings as might be fatisfacto-
ry to them, and aniwer the purpofe which they
had in view ; little thinking it would ever come
under the infpection of fo ingenious and indefa-
tigable a geographer as Mr. Dalrymple muft be
allowed to be. But as the cafe has turned out
otherwife, I have at my lcifure hours recopied all
my Journals into one book, and in fome inftan-
ces added to the remarks I had before made; not~
fo much for the information of thofe who are
critics in geography, as for the amufement of can-
did and indulgent readers, who may perhaps feel
themfelves in fome meafure gratified, by having
the face of a country brought to their view,
which has hitherto been entirely unknown to
every European except myfelf. Nor will I flat-
ter myfelf, a defcription of the modes of living,
manners, and cuftoms of the natives, (which,
though long known, have never been’ defcribed. )
be lefs acceptable to the curious.

I cannot help obferving, that I fecl myfelf ra-
ther hurt at Mr. Dalrymple’ s rejecting my latitude
in fo peremptory a manner, and in fo great a pro-

| | portion,

PREFACE,

‘portion, ashe has done; becaufe, before I arriv-

ed at Conge-cathawhachaga, the Sun did not fet.

during the whole night: a proof that I was then
to the Northward of the Arctic Circle. I may be
allowed to add, that when I was at the Copper
River, on the eighteenth of July, the Sun’s decli-
nation was but 2:°, and yet it. was certainly
fome height above the horizon at midnight ;
how ibiiel, as I did not ¢hen remark, I wills not
now take upon me to fay; but it vives that the
latitude was confiderably more than Mr. Dalrym-
- ple will admit of. His aflertion, that no grafs is
to be found on the (rocky) coait of Greenland
farther North than the latitude of 65°, is no
proof there fhould not be any in a much_ high-
r latitude in the interior parts of North
America. For, in the firft place, I think it is

more than probable, that the Copper River emp-

ties itfelf into a fort of inland Sea, or extenfive
Bay, fomewhat like that of Hudfon’s: and it is
well known that no part of the coafi of Hudfon’s
Straits, nor thofe of Labradore, at leaft for fome
degrees South of them, «any more than the Haft
coaft of Hudfon’s Bay, till we arrive near Whale
River, have any trees on them; while the Welt
coaft of the Bay in the fame latitudes, is well
clothed with timber. Where then is the ground
for fuch an affertion? Had Mr. Dalrymple conii-
dered this circumftance only, I flatter myfelf he
~ would not fo haftily have objecied to w oods and
grafs being feen in fimilar fituations, though in a

much espe latitude. Neither can the weotan:
ing

vil

wilt

Bi aes Ws Fie aE.

ing which Mr. Dalrymple derives from theerror I
committed in eftimating the diftance to Cumber-
land Houfe, any way affect the queftion under
confideration ; becaufe that diftance being chiefly
in longitude, I had no means of correcting it by
an obfervation, which was not the cafe here.

I do not by any means with to enter intoa dif-
pute with, or incur the difpleafure of Mr. Dal-
rymple; but thinking, as 1 do, that I have not
been treated in fo liberal a manner as I ought to
have been, he will excufe me for endeavouring

.to convince the Public that his objections are in

a great meafure without foundation. And hav-
ing done fo, | fhall quit the difagreeable fubject
with declaring, that if any part of the following
fheets fhould afford amufement to Mr. Dalrym-
ple, or any other of my readers, it will be the
higheft gratification I can receive, and the only
recompence I defire to obtain for the hardfhips
and fatigue which I underwent in procuring the
information contained in them.

Being well aflured that feveral learned and cu-
rious gentlemen are in pofleffion of manufcript
copies of, or extracts from, my Journals, as well
as copies of the Charts, I have been induced to
make this. copy as correct as poflible, and to pub-
lifh it; efpecially as I obferve that fcarcely any
two of the publications that contain extracts from
my Journals, agree in the dates when I arrived at,
or departed trom, particular places. To rectify
thofe difagreements I applied to the Governor and

Committee

PUR’ ES F° A> CE.

Committee of the Hudion’s Bay Company, for
leave to perufe my original Journals. ‘This was
granted with the greateft affability and polite-
_nefs; as well as a fight of all my Charts relative
to this Journey. With this affiftance 1 have been
enabled to rectify fome inaccuracies that had, by
trufting too much to memory, crept into this co-
py; andI now offer it to the Public under au-
thentic dates and the beft authorities, however
widely fome publications may differ from it.

I have taken the liberty to expunge fome pafla-
ges which were inferted in the original copy, as

being no ways interefting to the Public, and fe-.

veral others have undergone great alterations 3
fo that, in fact, the whole may be faid to be new-
modelled, by being blended with a variety of
Remarks and Notes that were not inferted in the
original copy, but which my long refidence in the
country has enabled me to add.

The account of the principal quadrupeds and »

birds that frequent thofe Northern regions in
Summer, as well as thofe which never migrate,
though not defcribed in a fcientific manner, may
not be entirely unacceptable to the moft {cienti-
fic zoologifts ; and to thofe who are unacquaint-
ed with the technical terms ufed in zoology, it
may perhaps be more ufeful and entertaining,
than if 1 had defcribed them in the moft claflical
manner. But I muft not conclude this Preface,
without acknowledging, in the moft ample man-
ner, the afliftance I have received from the perv-

fal

1x6

PARE. eAgq Cae:

fal of Mr. Pennant’s Arétic Zoology; which has |
enabled me to give feveral of the birds their pro-
per names; for thofe by which they are known
in Hudfon’s Bay are purely Indian, and of courfe
quite unknown to every European who has not
refided in that country.

To conclude, I cannot fufficiently regret the lofs
of a confiderable Vocabulary of the Northern
Indian Language, containing fixteen folio pages,
which was lent to the late Mr. Hutchins, then
Correfponding Secretary to the Company, to
copy for Captain Duncan, when he went on dif.
coveries to Hudfon’s Bay in the year one thou-
fand feven hundred and ninety. But Mr. Hutch-
ins dying foon after, the Vocabulary was taken
away with the reft of his effects, and cannot now
be recovered; and memory, at this time, will by
no means ferve to replace it.

C ON-

e..O.N. PBN: TS:

Inrropverion. - - Page xxi

7

C SHR MAP Be? 4%,

Tranfactions from my leaving Prince of Wales’s
Fort on my firft Expedition, till our Arrival
there again.

Set off from the Fort ; arrive at Po-co-thee-kif-co Ri-
ver.—One of the Northern Indians deferts.—Crofs
Seal River, and walk on the barren grounds.—
Receive wrong information concerning the diftance of
the woods.—Weather begins to be very cold, provift-

ons all expended and nothing to be got.—Strike to
the Weftward, arrive at the woods, and kill three
deer.—Set forward in the North Weft quarter, fee
the tracks of mufk-oxen and deer, but killed none.—
Very fhort of provifions.—Chawchinahaw wants us
to return.—Neither he nor his crew contribute to
our maintenance.—He influences feveral of the In-
dians to defert.—Chawchinahaw and all bis crew
leave us.— Begin our return to the Factory ; killa
few partridges, the firft mealwe had had for feveral
days.—Villany of one of the home Indians ‘and his
wife, who was a Northern Indian woman— Arrive
at

xil

CONTENTS

at Seal River, kill two deer; partridges plenty.—
Meet a ftrange Northern Indian, accompany him to
his tent, ufage received there; my Indians affift in
killing fome beaver.—Proceed toward home, and
arrive at the Fort. - - Page 1

GH A P.O?

Tranfactions from our arrival at the Factory, to

my leaving it again, and during the Firft Part
of my Second Journey, till | had the misfor-
tune to break the Quadrant.

Tranfactions at the Factory.—Proceed on my fecond

journey.—Arrive at Seal River.—Deer plentiful
for fome time.— Method of angling fib under the
ice. —Set our fifhing-nets.— Method of fetting nets
under the ice.— My guide propofes to fray till the
gece fhould begin to fly; his reafons accepted.--. Pitch
our tent in the be/t manner.— Method of pitching a
tent in Winter.—Ti/b plentiful for fome time; grow
very fearce ; in great want of provifions—Manner
of employing my time. — My guide killed two deer.—
Move to the place they were lying at ; there kill fe-
veral more deer, and three beavers.—Sgon in want
of provifions again. — Many Indians join us from the
Wefward.—We began te move towards the barren
ground.— Arrive at She-than-nee, there fuffer great
diftre/s for want of provifions.—Indians kill two
fwans and three geefe.—Geefe and other birds of
paffage plentiful.—Leave She-than-nee, and arrive

at

CONTENTS.
at Beralzone.—One of my companions guns bur/ts,
and Jhatters bis left hand.---Leave Beralzone, and
get on the barren ground, clear of all woods.--+
Throw away our fledges and fnow fhoes.---Each
perfon takes a load on his back; my part of the lug-
gage.---Expofed to many hard/bips.---Several days
without victuals.---Indians kill three mujfk-oxen,
but for want of fire are obliged to eat the meat
raw. --Fine weather returns ; make a fire; effects
of long fajting; fray a day or two to dry fome
meat in the Sun..--Proceed to the Norihward,
and arrive at Cathawhachaga; there find fome
tents of Indians.—A Northern leader called Keel-
Jhies meets us; fend a letter by him to the Gover-
nor.—Tranfattions at Cathawhachaga; leave it,
and proceed to the Northward.—Meet feveral

Indians.— My guide not willing to proceed; bis —

reafons for it—Many more Indians join us—
Arrive at Doobaunt Whoie River. —Manner of
ferrying over rivers in the Northern Indian ca-
noes.—No rivers in thofe parts in a ufeful directi-
on for the natives. —Had nearly loft the quadrant and
all the powder.—Some reflections on our fituation,
and conduct of the Indians.—Find the quadrant
and part of the powder.—Obferve for the latitude.
— Quadrant broke: —Refolve to return again to the
Fagiory. = - Page 1%

CHAP.

Kiik

XiV

C-0.N)T. EN: T-S.

Es Beit ST

Tranfactions from the Time the Quadrant was

broken, till I arrived at the Factory.

Several ftrange Indians join us from the Northward.

—They plunder me of all 1 had; but did not plun-
der the Southern Indians. —My guide plundered.—
We begin our return to the Factory.—Meet with
other Indians, who join our company.—Collect deer-
Shins for clothing, but could not get them dreffed —
Suffer much hard/hip from the want of tents and
warm clothing. —Moft of the Indians leave us.
— Meet with Matonabbee.—Some account of him,
and his behaviour to me and the Southern Indians.
—We remain in ‘his company fome time.—His ob-
fervations on my two unfucce/sful attempts.—We
leave him, and proceed to a place to which he di-
rected us, in order to make fnow-/hoes and fledges.
--- Foin Matonabbee again, and proceed towards the
Factory in his company.— Ammunition runs /hort.— ~
Myfelf and four Indians fet off poft for the Factory.
---Much bewildered in a fnow frorm; my dog is fro-
zen.to death; we lie in a bufh of willows.——Pro-
ceed on our journey.—Great difficulty in croffing a
jumble of rocks.—Arrive at the Fort. Page 47

CHAP.

CROC Ne TE. N T?s.

Ce a Be Oey,

Tranfactions during our Stay at Prince of Wales’s
Fort, and the former Part of our third Expedi-
tion, till our Arrival at Clowey, where we
built Canoes, in May 1771.

Preparations for our departure.—Refufe to take any
of the home-guard Indians with me.—By fo doing,

I offend ihe Governor.—Leave the Fort a.third
time. — My inftructions on this expedition. —Provi-
Sfions of all kinds very fcarce.—Arrive at the woods,
where we kill fome deer.—Arrive at Ifland Lake.
— Matonabbee taken ill.—Some remarks thereon.—
Foin the remainder of the Indians’ families. —Leave
land Lake.— Defcription thereof.—Deer plentiful.
_—Meet a firange Indian.—Alter our courfe from
Weft North Weft to Weft by South.—Crofs Catha-
whachaga River, Cofed Lake, Snow-Bird Lake,
and Pike Lake.—Arrive at a tent of frangers, who
are employed in fnaring deer in a pound.— De/crip-

_ tion of a pound.— Method of proceeding. —Remarks
thereon.—Proceed on our journey.— Meet with fe-
veral parties of Indians ; by one of whom I fent a
letter to the Governor at Prince of Wales’s Fort.—
Arrive at Thieweyazayeth.—Employment there. —
Proceedio the North NorthWeft and North.— Arrive
ai Clowey.—One of the Indian’s wives taken in la
bour.

wii CONTENTS.

bour.—Remarks thereon.—Cuftoms obferved by the
Northern Indians on thofe occafions. Page 60

CS ya: Bi ve

Tranfactions at Clowey, and on our Journey, till
our Arrival at the Copper-mine River.

Several firange Indians join us.—Indians employed in
building canoes; defcripiion and ufe of them.—
More Indians join us, to the amount of fome hun-
dreds.— Leave Clowey.—Receive intelligence that
Keelfbies was near us.—Two young men difpatched
for my letters and goods.—Arrive at Pefhew Lake ;
crofs part of it, and make a large fSmoke.— One of
Matonabbee’s wives elopes.—Some remarks on the
natives.—Keeljbies joins us, and delivers my letters,
but the goods were all expended.—A Northern In-
dian wifhes to take one of Matonabbee's wives from
him; matters compromifed, but had like to bave
proved fatal 1o my progre/s.—Crofs Pefbew Lake,
when I make proper arrangements for the remain-
der of my journey— Many Indians join our party,
in order to make war on the Efquimaux at the Cop-
per River.—Preparations made for that purpofe.
while at Clowey.—-Proceed on our journey to the
North.—Some remarks on the way.—Crofs Cogead
Lake on the ice. —The fun did not fet.— Arrive at
Cong ecathawhachaga.—Find feveral Copper Indi-
ans theree—Remarks and tranfactions during our

Stay,

CONTENTS. eoik

fay at Congecathawhachaga.— Proceed on our jours
ney.—Weather very bad.—Arrive at the Staney
Mountains —Some account of them.—Crofs part
of Buffalo Lake on the ice.—Saw many mufh-oxen.
* —Defcription of them.—Went with fome Indians to
view Grizzle-bear Hill.—Foin a ftrange Northern
Indian Leader, called O’ lye, in company with Some
Copper Indians. —Their behaviour to me.— Arrive

at the Copper-mine River. - - Page 95

Co BAP. VE

| Tranfactions at the Copper-mine River, and till
we joined ali the Women to the South of Coge-
ad Lake.

Some Copper Indians join us.—Indians fend three fpies

down the river.—Begin myfurvey.—Spies return,

and give an account of jive tents of Efquimaux.——In-
dians confult the beft method to fteal on them in the —
night, and kill them while afleep.—Crofs the river.
—Proceedings of the Indians as they advance to-
wards the Efquimaux tents.—T he Indians begin the
mafjacre while the poor E/quimaux are afleep, and
flay them all.—Much affected at the fight of one
young woman killed clofe ta my feet.—The behaviour
of the Indians on this occafion.—Their brutifh treat-
ment of the dead bodies —Seven more tents feen on
the oppofite fide of the river.—The Indians barafs
them, till they fly to a shoal in the river for fafety.
— Beha-

»

Xvili

CONTENTS.
— Behaviour of the Indians after killing thofe Efqui-

maux.—Crofs the river, and proceed to the tents
on that fide.—Plunder their tents, and deftroy their
utenfils.—Continue my furvey to the river's mouth.

>» —Remarks there.—Set out on my return.— Arrive

at one of the Coppermines.—Remarks on ite—Many
aitempts made to induce the Copper Indians to carry
their own goods to market.—Obftacles. to it.—Villa-
ny and cruelty of Keelfhies to fome of thofe poor In-
dians —Leave the Copper-mine, and walk at an
amazing rate till we join the women, by the fide of
CogeadWhoie.--- Much foot-foundered.—T he appear-
ance very alarming, but foon changes for the better.
—Proceed to the fouthward, and join the remainder
of the women and children.—Many other Indians
arrive with them. - t Page 145

Cty BE. Vi

‘Remarks from the Time the Women joined us

till our Arrival at the Athapufcow Lake.

Several of the Indians fick.— Method ufed by the conju-

rors to relieve one man, who recovers.—-Matonabbee
and his crew proceed to the South We.—Moft of the
other Indians feparate, and go their refpective ways.
—Pa/fs by White Stone Lake-—Many deer killed
merely for their fhins—Remarks thereon, and on the
deer, refpecting feafons and places.— Arrive at Point —
Lake.—One of the Indian's wives being fick, is left

behind

ew es a

behind to perifh above-ground.—Weather very bad,
but deer plenty.—Stay fome time at Point Lake to
dry meat, &c.—Winter fet in.—Superftitious cuftoms
obferved by my companions, after they had killed the
E/quimaux ai Copper River.— 4 violent gale of wind
overfets my, tent and breaks my quadrant.—Some
Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians join us.—Indians
propofe to go to the Athapufcow Country to kill
moofe.— Leave Point Lake, and arrive at the wood’s
edge-—Arrive at Anawd Lake.—Tranfactions
there—Remarkabie inftance of a man being cured
of the palfey by the conjurors.—Leave Anawd Lake
—Arrive at the great Athapufcow Lake. 189

C H A-P. VUHL.

Tranfactions and Remarks from our Arrival on

the South Side of the Athapufcow Lake, till our

- Arrival at Prince of Wales’s Fort on Churchill
River.

Crofs the Athapufcow Lake.-—Defcription of it and
its productions, as far as could be difcovered in
Winter, when the [now was on the ground. —Fi/b
found in the lake.— Defcription of the buffalo ;—
of the moofe or elk, and the method of dreffing their
Skins. —Find a woman alone that had not feen a
human face for more than feven months.—Her ac-
count how fhe came to be in that fituation ; and her
curious method of procuring a livelihood.—Many of

| b my

CONTENTS.

my Indians wreftled for her.—Arrive at the Great

Athapufcow River.—Walk along the fide of the Ri-

ver for feveral days, and then ftrike off to the Eaft-

ward.— Difficulty in getting through the woods in

“many places.—Meet with fome ftrange Northern
Indians on their return from the Fort.—Meet more

Strangers, whom my companions plundered, and from
whom they took one of their young women.—Curious

manner of life which thofe frrangers lead, and the

reafon they gave for roving fo far from their ufual

refidence.—Leave the fine level country of the Atha-

pufcows, and arrive at the Stony Hills of the Nor-
thern Indian Country.— Meet fome range Northern

Indians, one of whom carried a letter for me to

Prince of Wales’s Fort, in March one thoufand feven

hundred and feventy-one, and now gave me an an-

fwer to it, dated twentieth of une following.—
Indians begin preparing wood-work and birch-rind .

for canoes.—The equinoctial gale very fevere.—
Indian method of running the moofe deer down by

Speed of foot.—Arrival at Theeleyaza River.—
See fome ftrangers.—The brutality of my, compani-

anse——A tremendous gale and _fnow-drift.—Meet

with more firangers ;—remarks on it.—Leave all

the elderly people and children, and proceed direéily

to the Fort.—Stop to build canoes, and then ad-

vance.— Several of the Indians die through hunger,

and many others are obliged to decline the yourney for

want of ammunition.—A violent ftorm and inunda-

tion, that forced us to the top of a high hill, where

we fuffered great diftre/s for more than two days.

--- Kill

CONTENTS. xxi

—Kill feveral deer.—The Indians method of pre-
ferving the flelh without the affiftance of falt.--See
feveral Indians that were going to Knapp’s Bay.—
Game of all kinds remarkably plentiful.— Arrive at
the Fadory. > - Page 247

Coch ade Bee ERE

A fhort Defcription of the Northern Indians, alfo
a farther Account of their Country, seed 80
ial hy Cultoms, €e.

An account of the perfons and tempers of the Northern
Indians. —T hey poffe/s a great deal of art and cun-
ning.—Are very guilty of fraud when in their pow-
er, and generally exact more for their furrs than
any other tribe of Indians.— Always diffatisfied, yet
have their good qualities.—-The men in general jea-
lous of their wives.—Their marriages.—Girls al-
ways betrothed when children, and their reafons for
it.—Great care and confinement of young girls from
the age of eight or nine years.—Divorces com-
mon among thofe people.—-The women are lefs pro-
lific than in warmer countries.—Remarkable piece
of fuperftition obferved by the women at particular
periods. —Their art in making it an excuje for a
temporary feparation from their hufbands on any lit-
tle quarrel.—Reckoned very unclean on thofe occafi-
ons—The Northern Indians frequently, for the
want of firing, are obliged toeat their meat raw.—

b 2 Some

_&xil

€ OWN TEWN TS.

Some through neceffity obliged to boil it in veffels.:made
of the rind of the birch-tree.—A remarkable difh
among thofe people.—The young animals always cut
out of their dams eaten, and accounted a great deli-

cacy.—The parts of generation of all animals eat by

the men and boys.—-Manner of paffing their time,
and method of killing deer in Summer with bows
and arrows-—Their tents, dogs, fledges, &t—
Snow-boes.—Their partiality to domeftic vermin.
—Utmoft extent of the Northern Indian country.—
Face of the country.—Species of jfifb.—A peculiar
kind of mofs ufeful for the fupport of man.—Nor-
thern Indian method of catching if, either with
hooks or nets.—Ceremgny obferved when two par-
ties of thofe people meet.—Diverfions in common ufe.
—A fingular diforder which attacks fome of thofe
people.—T heir fuperftition with refpect to the death
of their friends. —Ceremony obferved on thofe occafi-
ons.—T heir ideas of the firft inhabitants of the world.
—No formof religion among them.---Remarks on that
circumftance.—T he extreme mifery to which old age |
is expofed.—T heir opinion of the Aurora Borealis,
&c.—Some account of Matonabbee, and his fervi-
ces to his country, as well as to the Hudjon’s Bay
company. . : Page 304

CHAP.

CONTENTS.

SUE, = TE EE,

Jn Account of the principal Quadrupeds found in the

Northern Parts of Hudfon’s Bay.——The Buffalo,
Moofe, Mufk-ox, Deer, and Beaver.—A capital
Miftake cleared up refpecting the We-was-kifh.

Animals with Canine Teeth.——The Wolf—

Foxes of various colours—Lynx, or Wild Cat—Po-

- dar, or White Bear—Black Bear—Brown Bear—
Wolverene-—Otter—-Fackafh—Wejack —Skunk—
Pine Martin— Ermine, or Stote.

Animals with cutting Teeth. The Mufk Bea-
ver—Porcupine—Varying Hare—-American Hare
—Common Squirrel—Ground Squirrel—Mice of
qvarious Kinds,—and the Caftor Beaver.

The Pinnated Quadrupeds with finlike Feet,
jound in Hudfon’s Bay, are but three in number,
viz. the Warlus, or Sea-Horfe,—Seal,—and Sea-
Unicorn.

The Species of Fifh found in the Salt Water of Hud-
Jon's Bay are alfo few in number 5 being the Black
Whale—White Whale—Salmon—and Kepling.

Shell-fifb, and empty Shells of feveral hinds, found
on the Sea Coast near Churchill River.

frogs of various fizes and colours; alfo.a great vari-
ety of Grubbs, and other Injecis, always found in a
frozen fiate during Winter, but when expofed to the
beat of aflsw firey are foon re-animated.
An

XX

xxiv CONTENTS.

An Account of fome of the principal Birds found in the
NorthernP arts of Hudfon's Bay; as well thofe that on-
ly migrate there in Summer, as thofe that are known
to brave the coldeft Winters :——-Eagles of various
kinds —Hawks of various fizes and plumage—White
or Snowy Ow!—---Grey or mottled Owl— Cob-a-dee-
cooch—Raven—Cinerious Crow—Wood Pecker—.
Ruffed Groufe—~-Pheafant—-Wood Partridge-—
Willow Partridge—Rock Partridge---Pigeon—Red-
breafted Thrufh—--Grofbeak—-Snow Bunting-—
White-crowned Bunting—Lapland Finch, two forts
—Lark—T itmeufe—Swallow—Martin--- Hopping
Crane—Brown Crane—Bitron—Carlow, two forts
—Fack Snipe—Red Godwart—-Plover—-Black
Gullemet—Northern Diver-——Black-throated Diver
—Red-throated Diver—White Gull---Grey Gull---
Black-head---Pelican---Goofander---Swans of ' two
Species---Common Grey Goo/e---Canada Goofe---White
or Snow Goofe---Blue Goofe--- Horned Wavy---Laugh-
ing Goofe---Barren Goofe---Brent Goofe.--Dunter
Goofe--- Bean Gaofe.

The Species of Water-Fow! ufually called Duck,
that refort to thofe Parts annually, are in great va-
riety; but thofe that are moft efteemed are, the Mal-
lard Duck,—Long-tailed Duck,---Wigeon, and Teal.

Of the Vegetable Productions as far North as Church-
ill River, particularly the moft ufeful; fuch as the

| Berry-bearing Bufbes, &c. Goofeberry---Cran-
berry---- Heathberry--- Dewater-berry---Black Cur-
rans---Funiper-berry--Partridge berry---Strawber-

ty

CONTENTS. XXV

ry---Eye-berry---Blue-Berry,---and a finall fpecies”
of Hips.
Burridge---Coltsfoot—Sorrel—Dandelion,
Wifb-a-capucca—Fackafhey-puck—Mofs of va-
rious forts—Grafs of feveral kinds—and Vetches.
The Trees found fo far North near the Sea, con-
Sift only of Pines—Funiper—Small Poplar—Buj/h-
willows—and Creeping Birch, - Page 358

y i

es Precnintsyp may

i

see unaadhnid liens Ag Quay
faba ann Soil ASLO by aT

ae
rey

se J

INTRODUCTION.

YOR many years it was the opinion of all ranks

of people, that the Hudfon’s Bay Company
were averfe to making difcoveries of every kind;
and being content with the profits of their {mall
capital, as it was then called, did not want to in-
creafe their trade. What might have been the
ideas of former members of the Company re-
fpecting the firft part of thefe charges I cannot
fay, but I am well aflured that they, as well as
the prefent members, have always been ready to
embrace every plaufible plan for extending the
trade. As a proof of this affertion, I need only
mention the vaft fums of money which they have
expended at different times in endeavouring to
eftablifh fifheries, though without fuccefs: and
the following Journey, together with the various
attempts made by Bean, Chriftopher, Johnifton,
and Duncan, to find a North Weft paffage, are
recent proofs that the prefent members are as de-
firous of making difcoveries, as they are of exend-
ing their trade. | |
That air of myftery, and affectation of fecrecy,
perhaps, which formerly attended fome of the
Company’s

XXVill

LWP oO DU Cc T EON.

Company’s proceedings in the Bay, might give
rife to thofe conjectures ; and the unfounded af-
fertions and unjuft afperfions of Dobbs, Ellis,
Robfon, Dragge, and the American Traveller,
the only Authors that have written on Hudfon’s
Bay, and wi.o have all, from motives of intereft
or revenge, taken a particular pleafure in arraign-
ing the conduct of the Company, without having
any real knowledge of their proceedings, or any
experience in their fervice, on which to found
their charges, muft have contributed to confirm
the public in that opinion. Moft of thofe Writ-
ers, however, advance fuch notorious abfurdities,
that none except thofe who are already prejudic-
ed againft the Company can give them credit*.
Robfon, from his fix years refidence in Hud-
fon’s Bay and in the Company’s fervice, might
naturally have been fuppofed to know fomething
of the climate and foil immediately round the
Faétories at which he refided ; but the whole of
his book is evidently written with prejudice, and
dictated by a fpirit of revenge, becaufe his ro-
mantic and inconfiftent {chemes were rejected by
the Company. Befides, it is well known that
Robfon was no more than a tool ip the hand of ©
Mr. Dobbs.
The American Traveller, though a more ele-
_ gant,

* Since the above was written, a Mr. Umfreville has publifhed an ac-
count of Fudfon’s Bay, with the fame ill-nature as the. former Authors ;
and for no other reafon than that of being difappointed in fucceeding te
a command in the Bay, though there was no vacancy for him,

INTRODUCTION.

gant writer, has ftill lefs claim to our indulgence,
as his affertions are a greater tax on our creduli-
ty. Hisfaying that he difcovered feveral large
lumps of the fineft virgin copper*, is fuch a pal-
pable falfehood that it needs no refutation. No
man, either Englifh or Indian, ever found a bit
of copper in that country to the South of the fe-
venty-firft degree of latitude, unlefs it had been
accidentally dropped by fome of the far Northern
Indians in their way to the Company’s Factory.
The natives who range over, rather than in-
habit, the large track of land which lies to the
North of Churchill River, having repeatedly
brought famples of copper to the Company’s
Factory, many of our people conjectured that it
was found not far from our fettlements; and as
the Indians informed them that the mines were
not very diftant from a large river, it was gene-
rally fuppofed that this river muft empty itfelf in-
to Hudfon’s Bay; as they could by no means
think that any {ct of people, however, wandering
their manner of life might be, could ever tra-
verfe fo large a track of country as to pafs the
_ Northern boundary of that Bay, and particular-
ly without the affiftance of water-carriage. The
following Journal, however, will fhew how much
thefe people have been miftaken, and prove alfo
the improbability of putting their favourite

icheme of mining into practice.
The

* American Travellers, page 23.

XXIX

TEE

IN TRODV € TEOMNM

The accounts.of this grand River, which fome
have. turned into a Strait, together with the fam-
ples of copper, were brought to the Company’s
Fadtory at. Churchill River immediately after its.
firft eflablithment, in the year one thoufand feven,
hundred and fifteen; and:it does not appear that
any attempts were made to.difcover either the
river or mines till the year one thoufand feven
hundred and nineteen, when the Company fitted
out. a-fhip, called the Albany. Frigate, Captain,
George Barlow*, anda floop, called. the Difco-

very,

* Captain Barlow was Governof at Albany Foit when the French went
over land from Canada to befiege it in the 1704. The Canadians and their
Indian guides lurked in the neighbeuthood of Albany for feveral days be-
fore they made the attack, and killed many of the cattle that were graz-
inginthe marfhes. A faithful Home-Indian, who was on a hunting ex,
curfion; diftovering thofe (trangers and fuppofing them to be enemies,
immediately returned tothe Fort, and informed the Governor of thercir-
cumftance, who gave little credit to it. However, every meafure was
taken for the defence of the Fort, and orders were given to the Mafterof
a floop'that lay at fome diflance, to come to the Fort with all poffible ex-
pedition on hearing a gun fired.

Accordingly, in the middle of the night, or rather in the morning, the °
French came before the Fort; marched up to the gate, and-demandéd en
trance. M:, Barlow, who was then.on the watch, told them, that the
Governor was afleep, but he would get the keys immediately, The French
hearing this, expe@ed no oppofition, and flocked up to the gate as clofe
as they could (land, Barlow took the advantage of! this opportunity, and
inftead of opening the gate, only opened two port holes, where two fix-
pounders flood loaded with grape fhot, which were inftantly fired. This
difeharge killed great numbers of the French, and among them the Com-
mander, who was an [rifhman.. { c

Such an anexpeéted reception made the remainder retire with great
precipitation; and the Matter of the floop hearing the guns, made the
befeof his way uptothe Fort; but fome of the Fiench who lay concealed
nuder the banks of the river killed him, and al] the boat’s crew.

The

HIWIT ROD WC T TON.

very, Captain David Vaughan. ‘Phe fole com-
anand of this:expedition, however, was given to
“Mr. James Knight, ‘a man of great -experience
dm the»Company’s fervice, who had been many
years Governor at the different Faétories in the
Bay, and who had made'the firft fettlement at
Churchill River. Notwithftanding the ‘experi-
_ence Mr. Knight might have had of the Compa-
ny’s bufinefs, and his knowledge of thofe parts

of the Bay where he had refided, it cannot be fup-_

pofed he was well acquamted with the nature of
the bufinefs in which he then engaged, having
nothing to direct him but the flender and imper-
feé& accounts which’he had received from the In-
dians, who at that:time ‘were little: known, and
jefs underftood.

Vhofe difadvantages, added to ‘his advanced
age, he being then:near eighty, by no means dif-
couraged this bold adventurer ; who was fo pre-
pofiefied of ‘his fuccefs, and of the ‘great advan-

tage

The French retired from this place with reluctance ; for fome of them
were heard fhooting inthe neighbourhood of the Fort ten days after they
were repulfed; and one man in particular walked up,and- down.the plat-
form leading from the gate of the Fort to the Launch for a whole day,
Mr.Fullarton, who was'thenGovernor at Albany, {poke to hinvin French,
and offered-him kind quarters if he chofe to-aecept them : but to: thofe
propofals he made no reply, ‘and only fhook his head. «Mr. Follarton
then told him, that unlefs he would refign himfelf up as a prifoner, he
would moft afluredly fhoot him ; on which the man advanced neaver the
Fort, and Mr. Fullarton fhot- him out of his chamber window. Perhaps
the hardthips this poor man expeéted to encounter in his retutn to Cana-
da, made him prefer death; but his refufing to receive quarter from fo
humane and generous an enemy as the Englifh, is aftonifhing.

NEN!

XXXil

INTRODUCTION.

tage that would arife from his difcoveries, that
he procured, and took with him, fome large iron-
bound chefts, to hold gold duft and other valua-
bles, which he fondly flattered himfelf were to be
found in thofe parts.

The firft paragraph of the Company’s Orders
to Mr. Knight on this occafion appears to be as
follows :

“* To Captain James KNIGHT.

“SIR, 4th June, 1719.
“From the experience we have had of your
‘¢ abilities in the management of our affairs, we
‘have, upon your application to us, fitted out
“the Albany frigate, Captain George Barlow,
“and the Difcovery, Captain David Vaughan
“ Commander, upon a difcovery, to the North-
“ ward; andto that end have given you power
«¢ and authority to act and do all things relating
“‘ to the faid voyage, the navigation of the faid
‘¢ fhip and floop only excepted; and have given
“¢ orders and infirudctions to our faid commanders
“ for that purpofe.
“ You are, with the firft opportunity of wind
‘* and weather, to depart from Gravefend on your
‘* intended voyage, and by God’s permiflion, to
<< find out the Straits of Anian, in order to difco-
“< ver gold and other valuable commodities to the
** Northward, ce. €3c.”
Mr,

Wo DR) OD: OG: EF torn:

Mr. Knight foon left Gravefend, and proceed-
edon his voyage; but the fhip not returning to
England that year, as was expected, it was judg-
ed that fhe had wintered in Hudfon’s Bay ; and
having on board a good ftock of provifions, a
houfe in frame, together with all neceflary mecha-
nics, and a great aflortment of trading goods,
little or no thoughts were entertained of their not
being in fafety: but as neither fhip nor floop re-
turned to England in the following year, (one
thoufand feven hundred and twenty,) the Com-
pany were much alarmed for their welfare; and,
by their fhip which went to Churchill in the year
one thoufand. feven hundred and twenty-one,
they fent orders for a floop called the Whale Bone,
John Scroggs Mafter, to go in fearch of them;
but the fhip not arriving in Churchill till late in
the year, thofe orders could not be put in execu-
tion till the fummer following (one thoufand fe-
ven hundred and twenty-two),

The North Weft coaft of Hudfon’s Bay being
little known in thofe days, and Mr. Scroggs
finding himfelf greatly embarrafled with fhoals
_and rocks, returned to Prince of Wales’s Fort
without making any certain difcovery refpecting
the above fhip or floop; for all the marks he
faw among the Efquimaux at Whale Cove {carce-
Jy amounted to the fpoils which might have been
made from a trifling accident, and confequently
could not be confidered as figns of a total fhip-
wreck.

The

RXEUL

RXKIV

INTRODUCTION.

The iftrong opinion which then prevailed in ~

Europe refpecting the probability of a North
Weit paflage by the way of Hudfon’s Bay, made
many conjecture that Mefirs. Knight and Barlow
had found that paflage, and had gone through it
into the South Sea, by the way of California.

Many yearselapfed without any other convincing

proof occurring to the contrary, except that

‘Middleton, Ellis, Bean, Chriftopher, and John-

fton, had not been able to find any fuch paflage.
And notwithftanding a floop was annually fent to
the Northward on difcovery, and to trade with

‘the Efquimaux, it was the {ummer of one thoufand

feven hundred and fixty feven, before we had po-
fitive proofs that poor Mr. Knight and Captain

‘Barlow had been loft in Hudfon’s Bav.

The Company were now carrying on a black

~whale fifhery, and Marble Ifland was made the

place of rendezvous’not only on account of the
commodiouine{s of the harbour, but becaufe it

“had been obferved that the whales were more
‘plentiful about that ifland than on any other part
-of the coaft. ‘This being the cafe, the boats,
»when on the look-out for fith, had frequent oc-

cafion to row clofe to the ifland, by which means

they difcovered a new :harbour near the Eaft end
of it, atthe head of which they found guns, -

anchors, cables, bricks, a:fmith’s anvil, and many

other articles, which the hand of time had not

‘defaced, and which being of no ufe to the na-

tives, or too heavy to be removed by them, had
not

INTRODUCTION.

not been taken from the place in which they
were originally laid. ‘The remains of the houfe,
though pulled to pieces by the Efquimaux, for
the wood and iron, are yet very plain to be feen,
as alfo the hulls, or more properly fpeaking, the
bottoms of the fhip and floop, which lie funk in
about five °fathoms water, toward the head of
the harbour. The figure-head of the fhip, and
alfo the guns, €s’c. were fent home to the Com-
pany, and are certain proofs that Mefirs. Knight
_and Barlow had been loft on that inhofpitable
ifland, where neither ftick nor ftump was to be
feen, and which lies near fixteen miles from the

main land. Indeed the main is little better, be--

ing a jumble of barren hills and rocks, deftitute
of every kind of herbage except mofs and grafs;
and atthat part, the woods are feveral hundreds
of miles from the fea-fide.

In the Summer of one thoufand feven hundred
and fixty-nine, while we were profecuting the fifh-
ery, we faw feveral Efquimaux at this new har-
bour ; and perceiving that one or two of them
were greatly advanced in years, our curiofity
was excited to afk them fome queftions concern-
ing the above fhip and floop, which we were the
better enable to do by the affiftance of an Efqui-
maux, who was then in the Company’s fervice

as a linguift, and annually failed in one of their-

veffels in that chara@ter. The account which we
received from them was full, clear, and unre-
C ferved,

XXXV

XXXVI

INTRODUCTION.

ferved, and the fum of it was to the following
purport : .

When the veffels arrived at this place (Marble
Ifland) it was very late in the Fall, and in getting
them into the harbour, the largeft received much
damage; but on being fairly in, the Englifh be-
gan to build the houfe, their number at that time
feeming to be about fifty. As foon as the ice
permitted, in the following Summer, (one thou-
fand feven hundred and twenty,) the Efquimaux
paid them another vifit, by which time the num-
ber of the Englifh was greatly reduced, and thofe
that were living feemed very unhealthy. Accord-
ing to the account given by the Efquimaux they
were then very bufily employed, but about what
they could not eafily defcribe, probably in length-
ening the long-boat ; for at a little diftance from
the houfe there is now lying a great quantity of
oak chips, which have been moft afluredly made
by carpenters.

Sicknefs and famine occafioned fuch havock
among the Englifh, that by the fetting in of the
fecond Winter their number was reduced to twen-
ty. That Winter (one thoufand feven hundred
and twenty) fome of the Efquimaux took up their
abode on the oppofite fide of the harbour to that
on which the Englifh had built their houfes*, and
frequently fupplied them with fuch provifions as

. they

* T have feen the remains of thofe houfes feveral times; they are on
the Weft fide of the harbour, and in all probability will be difcernible for
many years to come. It

INTRODUCTION.

they had, which chiefly confifted of whale’s blub-
ber and feal’s flefh and train oil. When the
Spring advanced, the Efquimaux went to the
continent, and on their viliting Marble Hand
again, in the Summer of one thoufand feven hun-
dred and twenty-one, they only found five of the
Englifh alive, and thofe were in fuch diftrefs for
provifions that they eagerly eat the feal’s flefh
and whale’s blubber quite raw, as they purchaf-
ed it from the natives. This difordered them
fo much, that three of them died in a few days,
and the other two, though very weak, made a
fhift to bury them. Thofe two furvived many
days after the reft, and frequently went to the
top of an adjacent rock, and earneftly looked to
the South and Eaft, as if in expectation of fome
_veflels coming to their relief. After continuing
there a contiderable time together, and nothing
appearing in fight, they fat down clofe together,
and wept bitterly. At length one of the two
died, and the other’s ftrength was fo far exhauit-
ed, that he fell down and died alfo, in attempt-

ing to dig a grave for his companion. The {culls
€.2 and

It is rather furprifing, that neither Middleton, Ellis, Chriftopher,
Johnfton, not Garbet, who have allof them been at Marble Mand, and
fome of them often, ever difcovered this harbour; particularly the laft-

‘mentioned gentleman, who adiually failed qtite round the ifland in a very
fine pleafant day in the Suminer of 1766. Bat this difcovery was referv-
ed fora Mr, Jofeph Stephens! a man of the leatt merit { ever knew,
though he then had the command of a veffel called the Succe’s, employed
in the whale-fifhery; and in the year 1769, had the command of the
Charlotte given to Lim,a fine brig of one hundred tons; when t was his

mate.

ExXvil

RXXVIIL

INTER ODUC'TIOR

and other large bones of thofe two men are now
lying above-ground cloie to the houfe. ‘The
longett liver was, according to the Efquimaux
account, always employed in working of iron
into implements for them; probably he was the
armourer, or {mith.

Some Northern Indians who came to trade at
Prince of Wales’s Fort in the Spring of the year
one thoufand feven hundred and fixty-eight,
brought farther accounts of the grand river, as
it was called, and alfo feveral pieces of copper, as
famples of the produce of the mine near it;
which determined Mr. Norton, who was then
Governor at Churchill, to reprefent it to the
Company as an affair worthy of their attention ;
and as he went that year to England, he had an
opportunity of laying all the information he had
received before the Board, with his opinion there-
on, and the plan which he thought motft likely
to fucceed in the difcovery of thofe mines. In
confequence of Mr. Norton’s reprefentations, the
Committee refolved to fend an intelligent perfon
by land to obferve the longitude and latitude of
the river’s mouth, to make a chart of the country
he might walk through, with fuch remarks as
occurred to him during the Journey ; when f
was pitched on as a proper perfon to conduct the
expedition. By the fhip that went to Churchill
in the Summer of one thoufand feven hundred
and fixty-nine, the Company fent out fome aftro-
nomical inftruments, very portable, and fit for

fuch

INTRODUCTION.

fuch obfervations as they required me to make,
and at the fame time requefted me to undertake
the Journey, promifing to allow me at my re-

turn, a gratuity proportionable to the trouble and

fatigue I might undergo in the expedition*.
I did

* The conditions offered me on this occafion cannot be better exprefled
than inthe Company’s own words, which I have tranfcribed from their
private letter to me, dated 25th May 1769.

“From the good opinion we entertain of you, and Mr. Norton’s recom-
* mendation, we have agreed to raife your wages to £ per annum
“ for two years, and have placed you in our Council at Prince of Wales’s
“ Fort ; and we fhould have been ready to advance you te the command of
“ the Charlotte, according to your requeft, ifa matter of more immedi-
*¢ ate confequence had not intervened.

“ Mr. Norton has propofed an inland Journey, far to the North of
# Churchill, to promote an extenfion of our trade, as well as for the difco-
“ very of a North Weft Paflage, Copper Mines, &c.; and as an undertak-
ing of this nature requires the attention of a perfon capable of taking
“an obfervation for determining the longitude and latitude, and alfo di-
« ftances, and the courfe of rivers and their depths, we have fixed upon
“ you (efpecially as it isreprefented to us to be your own inclination) to
** conduét this Journey, with proper affiftants.

“ We therefore hope you will fecond our expeétations in readily perform-
* ing this fervice, and upon your return we fhall willingly make you any
“ acknowledgment fuitable to your trouble therein.

“‘ We highly approve of your going in the Speedwell, to affift on the
« whale fiffery laft year, and ‘heartily with you health and fuccefé in the
* prefent expedition,

We remain your loving Friends,

“ Breve Laxe, Dep. Gov. “ James WINTER LAKE.
“Joun ANtwony Merte, “ Herman BERENS.

“ RopertT Merry. “ JosEpH SPURREL.

“ SAMUEL WEGG, ‘¢ James Firz Geran.”

The Company had no fooner perufed my Journals and Charts, than
they ordered a handfome fum to be placed to the credit of my account ;
and

XXXIX

xl

Lae RO DAO TS. Oa.

I did not hefitate to comply with the requeft of
the Company, and in the November following,
when fome Northern Indians came to trade, Mr.
Norton, who was then returned to the command
of Prince of Wales’s Fort, engaged fuch of them
for my guides as he thought were moft likely to
an{wer the purpofe; but none of them had been
at this grand river. Iwas fitted out with every
thing thought neceflary, and with ammunition
to ferve two years. I was to be accompanied by

two of the Company’s fervants, two of the Home-

guard* (Southern) Indians, and a fufficient num
ber of Northern Indians to carry and haul my
baggage, provide for me, &%c. But for the bet-

ter

and in the two firft paragraphs of their letter to me, dated rath May 1773,
they expres themfelves in the following words:

« Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE,

“ SR,

“¢ Your letter of the 28th Auguft laft gave us the agreeable pleafure te
« hear of your fafe return to our Factory. Your Journal, and the two
* charts you fent, fufficiently convinces us of your very judicious re-
*¢ marks,

‘Ss We have maturely confidered your great affiduity in the various acci-
“dents which occurred in your feveral Journies. We hereby return
« you our grateful thanks ; and to manifeft our obligation we have con-
“* fented to allow youa gratuity of £ for thofe fervices.%

Asa farther proof of the Company’s being perfeétly fatisfied with my
condvét while on that Journey, the Committee unanimonfly appointed me
Chief of Psince of Wales’s Fort in the Summer of 17753; and Mr. Bibye
Lake, who was then Governor, and feveral others of the Committee, ho-
aoured me with a regular correfpondence as long as they lived.

* By the Home-guard Indians we are to underftand certain of the na-
tives who are immediately employed under the protection of the Compa-
ny’ fervants, refide on the plantation, and are employed in hunting for
the Fadtory. “

INTRODUCTION.

ter ftating this arrangement, it will not be im.
proper to infert my Inftructions, which, with
fome occafional remarks thereon, will throw much
light on the following Journal, and be the beft
method of proving how far thofe orders have
been complied with, as well as fhew my reafons
for neglecting fome parts as unneceflary, and the
impoffibility of putting other parts of them in
execution. |

“ORDERS and INSTRUCTIONS for Mr.
“* SAMUEL HEARNE, going on an Expedition by
“* Land towards the Latitude 70° North, in
““ order to gain a Knowledge of the Northern
* Indians Country, &c. on Behalf of the Ho-
“* nourable Rudfon’s Bay Company, in the Year

*° 1769.

“ Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE,
nik Be

“ Wuereas the Honourable Hudfon’s Bay
** Company have been informed by the report
“*from Indians, that there is a great probability
“ of confiderable advantages to be expected from
““a better knowledge of their country by us,
** than what hitherto has been obtained; and as
** it is the Company’s earneft defire to embrace
** every circumftance that may tend to the bene-
“ fit of the faid company, or the Nation at large,
‘* they have requefted you to conduét this Expe-
“* dition ; and as you have readily confented to
** undertake the prefent Journey, you are here-
66 bv

xii

xlil

INTRODUCTION.

‘¢ by defired to proceed as foon as poflible, with
¢¢ William Ifbefter failor, and Thomas Merriman
“¢ Jandfman, as companions, they both being wil-
‘¢ ling to accompany you; alfo two of the Home-
«‘ guard Southern Indians, who are to attend
“ and affiit you during the Journey; and Cap-
“tain Chawchinahaw, his Lieutenant Nabyah,
“and fix or eight of the beft Northern Indians we
<* can procure, with afmall part of their families,
“ are to conduct you, provide for you, and af-
“ fift you and your companions in every thing
*¢ that lays in their power, having particular or-
*¢ ders fo to do.

«¢ 2dly, whereas you and your companions are
‘* well fitted-out with every thing we think ne-
*¢ ceflary, as alfo a fample of light trading goods;
‘* thefe you are to difpofe of by way of prefents
«* (and not by way of trade) to fuch far-off Indi-
‘* ans as you may meet with, and to {fmoke your
* Calimut* of Peace with their leaders, in order

** to eftablifh a friendfhip with them. You are

“* alfo to perfuade them as much as poflible from
“ going to war with each other, to encourage
“them to exert themfelves in procuring furrs
*¢ and other articles for trade, and to aflure them
‘*of good payment for them at the Company’s
*¢ Factory.

ce It

* The Calimut isa long ornamented ftem of a pipe, much in ufe among
all the tribes of Indians whg know the vufe of tobacco. It is particularly
ufed in all cafes of ceremony, either in making war or peace; at all public
entertainments, orations, &c,»

INTRODUCTION.

“ Tt is fincerely recommended to you and your
* companions to treat the natives with civility,
** fo as not to give them any room for complaint
“ or difguft, as they have ftrict orders not to give
“ you the leaft offence, but are to aid and affift
*¢ you in any matter you may requeft of them
“© for the benefit of the undertaking.
“If any Indians you may meet, that are com-
‘*¢ ing to the Fort, fhould be willing to truft you
‘¢ with either food or clothing, make your agree-
*‘ ment for thofe commodities, and by them fend
“* me a letter, fpecifying the quantity of each ar-
** ticle, and they fhall be paid according to your
“agreement. And, according to the Company’s
‘* orders, you are to correfpond with me, or the
$¢ Chief at Prince of Wales’s Fort for the time be-
** ing, at all opportunities : And as you have ma-
** thematical inftruments with you, you are to
** fend me, or the Chief for the time being, an
** account of what latitude and longitude you
** may be in at fuch and fuch periods, together
“* with the heads of your proceedings ; which ac-
** counts are to be remitted to the Company by
*‘the return of their fhips*.
*“3dly, The Indians who are now appointed
** your guides, are to condué¢t you to the borders
‘of the Athapufcow { Indians country, where
** Captain
* No convenient opportunity offered during my laft Journey, except one
on the 22d March 1771; and as nothing materia! had happened during that
part of my Journey, I thought there was not any neceflity for tending an
extract of my Journal; I therefore only fenta Letterto the Governor, in-
forming him of my fituation with refpeét to latitude and longitude, and

fome account of the ufage which I received from the natives, &c.
+ By miftake in my former Journal and Draft called Arathapefcow.

xl

it

xliv

Lei O27 CT Of

‘* Captaim Matonabbee is to meet you + in the
“ Spring of one thoufand feven hundred and fe-
“‘venty, in order to conduct you to a river re-
“¢ prefented by the Indians to abound with cop-
*‘ per ore, animals of the furr kind, &&c. and
‘¢ which is faid to be fo far to the Northward,
‘¢ that in the middle of the Summer the Sun does
** not fet, and is fuppofed by the Indians to emp-
“ty itfelf into fome ocean. This river, which
“* is called by the Northern Indians Neetha-fan-
“¢ fan-dazey, or the Far Off Metal River, you are,
‘* if poffible, to trace to the mouth, and there de-
“termine the latitude and longitude as near as
<¢ you can; but more particularly fo if you find
‘* it navigable, and that a fettlement can be made
“there with any degree of fafety, or benefit to
“‘ the Company.
“¢ Be careful to obferve what mines are near
*‘ the river, what water there is at the river’s
“* mouth, how far the woods are from the fea-
** fide, the courfe of the river, the nature of the
“© foil, and the productions of it; and make any
«other remarks that you may think will be ei-
< thee

7 This was barely probable, as Matonabbee at that time had not any in-
formation of this Journey being fet on foot, much lefs had he received ot~
ders to join me at the place and time here appointed ; and had we acci-
dentally met, he would by no means have undertaken the Journey with-
out firft going to the Faétory, and there making his agreement with the
Governor; for no Indian is fond of performing any particular fervice for
ihe Englith, without firft knowing what isto be his reward. At the fame
time, had I taken that rout on my out-fet, it would have carried me fome -
hundreds of miles out of my road. Sec my Track on the Map in the
Winter 1770, and the Spring 1771.

lirr.oOD U Cll 0.N.

“ther neceffary or fatisfactory. And if the faid
“ river be likely to be of any utility, take poflef-
“ fion of it on behalf of the Hudfon’s Bay Com-
“pany, by cutting your name on fome of the
“© rocks, as alfo the date of the year, month, &c.*

‘¢ When you attempt to trace this or any other
river, be careful that the Indians are furnifhed
“with a fufficient number of canoes for trying
*< the depth of water, the ftrength of the current,
«© &oc. If by any unforefeen accident or difafter
“ you fhould not be able to reach the before-men-
“ tioned river, itis earneftly recommended to you,
“if poffible, to know the event of Wager Straitt;
*< for it isreprefented by the laft difcoverers to ter-
“* minate in fmall rivers and lakes. See how far
“the woods are from the navigable parts of it ;
“and whether a fettlement could with any pro-
“ priety be made there. If this fhould prove un-
** worthy

*T was not provided with inftruments for cutting on ftone; but for form-
fake, Icut my name, date of the year, &c. on a piece of board that had
been one of the Indian’s targets, and placed it in a heap of {tones ona fmall
eminence near the entrance of the river, on the South fide.

+ There is certainly no harm in making out all Inftructions in the fulleft
manner, yet it muft be allowed that thofe two parts might have been omit~
ted with great propriety; for as neither Middleton, Ellis, nor Chriftopher
were able to penetrate far enough up thofe inlets to difcover any kind of
herbage except mofs and grafs, much lefs woods, it was not likely thofe parts
were fo materially altered for the better fince their times, as to make it
worth my while to attempt a farther difcovery of them; and efpecially as
I had an opportunity, during my fecond Journey, of proving that the
woods do not reach the fea-coaft by fome hundreds of miles in the paral-
lel of Chefterfield’s Inlet. And as the edge of the woods tothe North-
ward always tends to the Weltward, the diftance mutt be greatly increafed
in the jatitude of Wager Strait. Thofe parts have long fince been vifited
by the Company’s fervants, and are within the known limits of their
Charter; confequently require no other form of pofleffion,

xlv

xlvi

iT RO DO CT Oe:

‘¢ worthy of notice, you are to take the fame me-
*¢ thod with Baker’s Lake, which is the head of
“ Bowden’s or Chefterfield’s Inlet*; as alfo with
‘‘ any other rivers you may meet with; and if
“likely to be of any utility, you are to take pof-
“‘ feflion of them, as before mentioned, on the
“¢ behalf of the Honourable Hudfon’s Bay Com-
“pany. The draft of Bowden’s Inlet and Wager
“¢ Strait I fend with you, that you may have a bet-
“ ter idea of thofe places, in cafe of your viliting
“* them. |
“¢ athly, Another material point which is re-
** commended to you, is to find out, if you can,
‘** either by your own travels, or by information
“from the Indians, whether there is a paflage
“‘ through this continent}. It will be very ufeful
“to clear up this point, if poflible, in order to
‘“‘ prevent farther doubts from arifing hereafter
“* refpect-

* See the preceding Note,

+ The Continent of America is much wider than many people imagine,
particularly Robfon, who thought that the Pacific Ocean was but a few
days journey from the Weft coalt of Hudfon’s Bay. This, however, is fo
far from being the cafe, that when I was at my greateft Weftern diftance,
upward of five hundred miles from Prince of Wales's Fort, the natives
my guides, well knew that many tribes of Indians lay to the Weft of us,
and they knew no end to the land in that dire@tion; nor have I met with
any Indians, either Northern or Southern, that ever had feen the fea to
the Weftward, It is, indeed, well known to the intelligent and well-in-
formed part of the Campany’s fervants, that an extenfive and numerous,
tribe of Indians, called E-arch-e-thinnews, whofe country lies far Weft of
any of the Company’sor Canadian fettlements, mutt have traffic with the
Spaniards on the Weft fide of the Continent ; becaufe fome of the Indians
who formerly traded to York Fort, when at war with thofe people, fre-
quently found faddles, bridles, mufkets, and many other articles, in their
poffeffion, which were undoubtedly of Spanifh manufaétory.

I have

INTRODUCTION.

‘¢ refpecting a paflage out of Hudfon’s Bay * into
“the Weftern Ocean, as hath lately been repre-
“‘ fented by the American Traveller. The particu-
“Jars of thofe remarks you are to infert in your
* Journal, to be remitted home to the Company.

*¢ If you fhould want any fupplies of ammuniti-
“on, or other necefflaries, difpatch fome trufty
‘* Indians to the Fort witha letter, {pecifying the
“© quantity of each article, and appoint a place
‘* for the faid Indians to meet you again.

** When on your return, if at a proper time of
“the year, and you fhould be near any of the
‘* harbours that are frequented by the brigantine
** Charlotte, or the floop Churchill, during their
«© voyage to the Northward, and you fhould chufe
“to return in one of them, you are defired to
‘‘ make frequent fmokes as you approach thofe
** harbours, and they will endeavour to receive
“you by making f{mokes in anfwer to yours ;
** and as one thoufand feven hundred and feven-
** ty-one will probably be the year in which you
** will return, the Mafters of thofe veflels at that

“* period

Ihave feen feveral Indians who have been fo far Weft as to crofs the top
of that immenfe chain of mountains which run from North to South of the
continent of America. Beyond thofe mountains all rivers run to the
Weftward. I muft here obférve, that all the Indians I ever heard
relate their excurfions in that country, had invariably got fo far to the

“South, that they did not experience any Winter, nor the leaft appearance
of either froft or fhow, though fometimes they have been abfent eighteen
months, or two years,

* As toa paflage through the continent of America by the way of Hud-
fon’s Bay, it has fo long been exploded, notwith{tanding what Mr Ellis has
urged in its favour, and the place it has found inthe vifionary Map of the
American Traveller, that any comment on it would be quite unneceflary,
My latitude only will be a fufficient proof that no fuch paffage isin exiftence

xlvii

xl vill

INTRODUCTION.
<¢ period fhall have particular orders on that head.
<< It will be pleafing to hear by the firft oppor-
“ tunity, in what latitude and longitude you meet
“‘ the Leader Matonabbee, and how far he thinks
< itis to the Coppermine River, as alfo the pro-
“‘ bable time it may’take before you can return.
«© But in cafe any thing fhould prevent the faid
<¢ Leader from joining you, according to expecta-
“¢ tion, you are then to procure the -beft Indians
‘* you can for your guides, and either add to, or
‘s diminifh, your number, as you may from time
“ to time think moft neceflary for the good of
‘¢ the expedition.
“‘ So I conclude, wifhing you and your compa-
‘© nions a continuance of health, together with a
“¢ profperous Journey, and a happy return in
** fafety. Amen.
«< MOSES NORTON, Governor.

« Dated at Prince of Wales’s Fort, Churchill River, Hudfon’s
“ Bay, North America, November 6th, 1769.”

Ifbefter and Merriman, mentioned in my In-
firuétions, aétually accompanied me during my
firft fhort attempt; but the Indians knowing
them to be but common men, ufed them fo in-
differently, particularly in fcarce times, that I was
under fome apprehenfions of their being ftarved
to death, and] thought myfelf exceedingly happy
when I got them fafe back to the Factory. ‘This |
extraordinary behaviour of the Indians made mé |
determine not to take any Europeans with me on
my two laft expeditions.

With regard to that part of my Inftructions

which direéts me to obferve the nature of the foil, |
the

INTRODUCTION.

the productions thereof, oc. it muft be obferved,
that during the whole time of my abfence from
the Fort, I was invariably confined to ftony hills
and barren plains all the Summer, and before we
- approached the woods in the Fall of the year, the
ground was always covered with fnow to a confi-
derable depth; fo that I never had an opportuni-
ty of feeing any of the {mall plants and fhrubs to
the Weftward. But from appearances, and the
flow and dwarfy growth of the woods, €c. (ex-
_cept in the Athapufcow country,) there is un-
doubtedly a greater {carcity of vegetable producti-
ons than at the Company’s moft Northern Settle-
ment ; and to the Eaftward of the woods, on the
barren grounds, whether hills or vallies, there is
a total want of herbage except mofs, on which
the deer feed ; a few dwarf willows creep among
the mofs ; eae wifh-a-capucca and a little gra
may be feen here and there, but the latter is
{carcely fufficient to ferve the geefe and other birds
of paflage during their fhort ftay in thofe parts,
though they are alwaysin a ftate of migration ex-
cept when they arebreeding andina moulting ftate.
In confequence of my complying with the Com-
pany’ s requeft, and undertaking this Journey, it
is natural to fuppofe that every neceflary arrange-
ment was made for the eafier keeping of my reck-
oning, &c. under the many inconveniences I muft
be unavoidably obliged to labour in fuch an ex-
pedition. I drew a Map on a large fkin of parch-
ment, that contained twelve degrees of fatitude
North, and thirty degrees of longitude Weft,

of Churchill Factory, and fketched all the Weft.

coat

xlix

LB fe OS VP
coaft of the Bay on it, but left the interior
parts blank, to be filled up during my Journey.
I alfo prepared detached pieces on a much larger
{cale for every degree of latitude and longitude
contained in the large Map. On thofe detached
pieces | pricked off my daily courfes and diftance,
and entered all lakes and rivers, &'c. that I met
with; endeavouring, by a ftrict enquiry of the
Natives, to find out the communication of one ri-
ver with another, as alfo their connections with
the many lakes with which that country abounds:
and when opportunity offered, having corrected
them by obfervations, I entered them in the gene-
ral Map.» Thefe and feveral other neceflary pre-
parations, for the eafier, readier and more cor-
rectly keeping my Journal and Chart, were alfo
adopted ; but as te myfelf, little was required to
be done, as the nature of travelling long journies
in thofe countries will never admit of carrying
even the moft common article of clothing; fo
that the traveller is obliged to depend on the
country he pafles through, for that article, as
well as for provifions. Ammunition, ufeful iron-
work, fome tobacco, a few knives, and other in-
difpenfable articles, make a fufficient load for any
one to carry that is going a journey likely to laft
twenty months, or two years. As that was the
cafe, I only took the fhirt and clothes I then had
on, one fpare coat, a pair of drawers, and as much
cloth as would make me two or three pair of In-
dian ftockings, which, together with a blanket
for bedding, compofed the whole of my ftock of
clothing. A JOUR-

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ANORTH WEST VIEW of IPIRINCE of WAILLE S’S FoR Tin Hip $s oNS BAYNORTHAMERICAbySZ//EARVE 2979

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ois ee i a

Tranfactions from my leaving Prince of Wales’s
Fort on my firft expedition, till our arrival there
again. |

Set off from the Fort.—Arrive at Po-co-ree-kif-co Ri-
ver.—One of the Northern Indians defert.—Crofs
Seal River, and walk on the barren grounds.—
Receive wrong information concerning the diftance of
the woods.—Weather begins to be very cold, provifi-
ons all expended and nothing to be got.——Strike to
the Weftward, arrive at the. woods, and kill three
deer.—Set forward in the North Wejt quarter; fee
the tracks of mufk-oxen and deer, but killed none.—
Very Jhort of provifions.—Chawchinahaw wants us
to return.— Neither he nor his crew contribute to
our maintenance.—He influences feveral of the In-
dians to defert.—Chawchinahaw and all his crew

B leave

4

1769.
ee med

November.

6th.

Sth,

A JOURNEY TO THE

leave us.—Begin our return to the factory; kill a.
few partridges, the firft meal we had had for feveral
days.—Villany of one of the home indians and his
wife, who was a Northern Indian woman.—Ar-
rive at Seal River, kill two deer; partridges plenty.
— Meet a frrange Northern Indian, accompany him
to his tent, ufage received there ; my Indians affift in
killing fome beaver.—Proceed toward home, and
arrive at the Fort.

AVING made every neceflary arrangement

for my departure on the fixth of Novem-

ber, I took leave of the Governor, and my other

friends, at Prince of Wales’s Fort, and began
my journey, under the falute of feven cannon.

The weather at that time being very mild,

made it but indifferent hauling*, and all my

crew being heavy laden, occafioned us to make
but fhort days journeys; however, on the eighth,
we crofled the North branch of Po-co-ree-kif-co
River, and that night put up in a {mall tuft of
woods; which is between it and Seal River. In
the night, one of the Northern Indians defert-
ed; and as all the reft of my crew were heavy
laden, I was under the neceflity of hauling the
fledge he had left, which however was not very

heavy, as it fcarcely exceeded fixty pounds.
The weather ftill continued very fine and plea-
fant: we directed our courfe to the Weft North
Wett,

* The colder the weather is, the eafier the fledges flide-over the fhow.

NORTHERN OCEAN. 3

Welt, and early in the day crofled Seal River. In ,46o,
the courfe of this day’s journey we met feveral —_~
_ Northern Indians, who were going to the factory "yin
with furs and venifon ; and as we had not killed
any deer from our leaving the Fort, I got feveral
joints of venifon from thofe ftrangers, and gave
them a note on the Governor for payment,
_ which feemed perfectly agreeable to all parties.
When on the North Weft fide of Seal River, I
afked Captain Chawchinahaw the diftance, and
probable time it would take, before we could
reach the main woods; which he afiured me
would not exceed four or five days journey.
‘This put both me and my companions in good
fpirits, and we continued our courfe between
the Weft by North and North Weft, in daily
expectation of arriving at thofe woods, which we
were told would furnifh us with every thing the
country affords. Thefe accounts were fo far from
being true, that after we had walked double the
time here mentioned, no figns of woods were
to be feen in the direction we were then fieering ;
_but we had frequently feen the looming of woods
to the South Weft.

The cold being now very intenfe, our {mall
ftock of Enelifh provifions all expended, and ~
not the leaft thing to be got on the bleak hills we
had for fome time been walking on, it became |
neceflary to ftrike more to the Weftward, which
we accordingly did, and the next evening arriv-

_ed at fome {mall patches of low fcrubby woods,
Sek! 2 mid. SNR ELE

roth,

4 A JOURNEY TO THE

1769. where we faw the tracks of feveral deer, and -
ea killed a few partridges. ‘Theroad we had tra-
verfed for many days before, was in general fo
rough and ftony, that our fledges were daily’
breaking ; and to add to the inconveniency, the
land was fo barren, as not to afford us mate-
rials for repairing them: but the few woods we
now fell in with, amply fupplied us with necef-
{aries for thofe repairs; and as we were then
enabled each night to pitch proper tents, our
lodging was much more comfortable than it had
been for many nights before, while we were on
the barren grounds, where, in general, we
thought ourfelves well off if we ‘could {crape
together as many fhrubs as would make a fire;
but it was {carcely ever in ‘our power to make’
any other defence againit the weather, than by’ |
digging a hole in thé {now down to’ the mofs,° |
wrapping ourfelves up in our clothing, and dying
down in it, with our fledges fet pe edgeways to.
windward.
ante, On the twenty-firft, we did not move; fo the
Indian men went a hunting, and the women cut
holes in the ice and caught a few fifh in a {mall
lake, by the fide of which we had pitched our
tents. At night the men returned with fome
venifon, having killed three deer, which was
without doubt very acceptable ; but our number
being great, and the Indians having fuch enor-
mous ftomachs, very little was left but fragments
after the two or three firft good meals. Having
devoured

NORTHERN OCEAN | 5

_ devoured the three deer, and given fome' necef- V6
: fary repairs to our fledges and fnow fhoes, which Uv~
only took one day, we again proceeded on tO< ale
ward the North Weft by Weft and Welt North
Welt, through low fcrubby pines, intermixed
with fome dwarf larch, which is commonly called
juniper in Hudfon’s Bay. In our road we fre-
quently faw the tracks of deer, and many mufk-
oxen, as they are called there; but none of my
companions were fo fortunate as to kill any
of them: fo that a few partridges were all we
could get to live on, and thofe were {fo fcarce,
that we feldom could kill as many as would
amount to half a bird a day for each man; which,
confidering we had nothing elfe for the twenty-
four hours, was in reality next to nothing.

By this time I found that Captain Chawchin-
ahaw had not the profperity of the undertaking
at heart; he often painted the difficulties in the
worft colours, took every method to difhearten
me and my European companions, and feveral

' times hinted his defire of our returning back to
the factory: but finding I was determined to
proceed, he took fuch methods as he thought
would be moit likely to anfwer his end; one
of which was, that of not adminiftering toward
our fupport; fo that we were a confiderable
time without any other fubfiftence, but what our
two home-guard (Southern) Indians procured,
and the little that 1 and the two European men
could kill; which was very difproportionate to

our

6
1769.
Qe pone

November.

2gth.

30th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

our wants, as we had to provide for feveral wo-
men and children who were with us.
Chawchinahaw finding that this kind of treat-
ment was not likely to complete his defign, and
that we were not to be ftarved into compliance,
at length influenced feveral of the beft Northern
Indians to defert in the night, who took with
them feveral bags of my ammunition, fome
pieces of iron work, fuch as hatchets, ice chiflels,
files &c. as well as feveral other ufeful articles.
When I became acquainted with this piece of
villany, I alked Chawchinahaw the reafon of fuch
behaviour. To which he anfwered, that he
knew nothing of the affair: but as that was the
cafe, it would not be prudent, he faid, for us to
proceed any farther; adding, that he and all the
reft of his countrymen were going to ftrike off ©
another way, in order to join the remainder of |
their wives and families: and after giving usa _
fhort account which way to fteer our courfe for —
the neareft part of Seal River, which he faid |
would be out bef{ way homeward, he and his |
crew delivered me moft of the things which they |
had in charge, packed up their awls, and fet out
toward the South Weft, making the woods ring |
with their laughter, and left us to confider of
our unhappy fituation, near two hundred miles —
from Prince of Wales’s Fort, all heavily laden,
and our ftrength and fpirits greatly reduced by |
hunger and fatigue. |
Our fituation at that time, though very alarm-

ing,

I

NORTHERN OCEAN. 7

ing, would not permit us to {pend much time in 1760.
reflection ; fo we loaded our {ledges to the bef
advantage, (but were obliged to throw away
fome bags of fhot and ball,) and immediately fet
out on our return. In the courfe of the day’s
walk we were fortunate enough to kill feveral
partridges, for which we were all very thankful,
as it was the firft meal we had had for feveral
days: indeed, for the five preceding days we.
had not killed as much as amounted to half a
partridge for each man; and fome days had not
afingle mouthful. While we were is this diftrefs,
the Northern Indians were by no means in want;
for as they always walked foremoft, they had ten
times the chance to kill partridges, rabbits, or
any other thing which was to be met with, than
we had. Befides this advantage, they had great
ftocks of four, oatmeal, and other Englifh pro-
vifions, which they had embezzled out of my
ftock during the early part of the journey ; and as
one of my home Indians, called Mackachy, and
his wife, who is a Northern Indian woman, al-
ways reforted to the Northern Indianstents, where
they got amply fupplied with provifions when
neither I nor my men had a fingle mouthful, |
have great reafon to fufpect they had a principal
hand in the embezzlement: indeed, both the
man and his wife were capable of committing
any crime, however diabolical.

This day we had fine pleafant weather for the December.
feafon of the year: we fet out early in the mor- a

ning,

November.

1769.

sen reed

December
sth.

5th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

ning, and arrived the fame day at Seal River,
along which we continued our courfe for fe-

~veral days. In our way we killed plenty of par-

tridges, and faw many deer; but the weather was
fo remarkably ferene that the Indians only killed
two of the latter. By this: time game was be-
come fo plentiful, that all apprehenfions of ftarv-
ing were laid afide; and though we were heavily.
laden, and travelled pretty good days journeys,
yet as our fpirits: were good, our ftrength gradu-
ally returned. |

In our courfe down Seal River we met a ftran-
ger, a Northern Indian, on a hunting excurfion;
and though he had not met with any fuccefs
that day, yet he kindly invited us to his tent;
faying he had plenty of venifon at my fervice;

‘and told the Southern Indians, that as there

were two or three beaver houfes near his tent,
he fhould be glad of their afliftance in taking
them, for there was only one man, and three

women at the tent. .
Though we were at that time far from being
in want of provifions, yet we accepted his offer,
and fet off with our new guide for his tent, which,
by a comparative diflance, he told us, was not
above five miles from the place where we met
him, but we found it to be nearer fifteen; fo
that it was the middle of the night before we ar-
rived at it. When we drew. near the tent, the
ufual fignal for the approach of ftrangers was giv-
en, by firing a gun or two, which was immediate-
| ly

NORTHERN OCEAN. 9

ly anfwered by the man at the tent. On our 1769.
arrival at the door, the good man of the houfe www
came out; fhook me by the hand, and welcomed us saab
to his tent; but as it was too {mall to contain us
all, he ordered his women to afiift us in pitching
our tent; and in the mean time invited me and
as many of my crew as his little habitation could
| contain, and regaled us with the befl in the houfe.
The pipe went round,pretty brifkly, and the con-
‘verfation naturally turned on the treatment we
had received from Chawchinahaw and his gang ;
which was always anfwered by our hoft with,
«¢ Ah! if I had been there, it fhould not have been
« fo!” when, notwithftanding his hofpitality on
the prefent occafion, he would moft affuredly have
acted the fame part as the others had done, if he
had been of the party.
Having refrefhed ourfelves with a plentiful fup-
per, we took leave of our hoft for a while, and
_retired to our tent; but not without being made
_ thoroughly fenfible that many things would be
expected from me, before I finally left them.
Early inthe morning, my Indians affifted us in 5t»-
taking the beaver houfes already mentioned; but
the houfes being fmall, and fome of the beavers
efcaping, they only killed fix, all of which were
cooked the fame night, and voracioufly devoured
under the denomination of a feaft. I alfo receiv-
_ ed from the Indians feveral joints of venifon, to
the amount of at leaft two deer; but notwith-
_ftanding I was to pay for the whole, J found that
Mackachy and his wife got all the prime parts of
the

io

1769.
Me ed

December,

oth.

Sth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

the meat; and on my mentioning it to them,
there was fo much clanfhip among them, that
they preferred making a prefent of it to Macka-
chy, to felling it to me at double the price for
which venifon fells in thofe parts: a fufficient
proof of the fingular advantage which a native
of this country has over an Englifhman, when at
fuch a diftance from the Company’s Factories as
to depend entirely on them for fubfiftence. |

Thinking Ihad made my ftay here long enough, — ;
I gave orders to prepare for our departure; and
as | had purchafed plenty of meat for prefent ufe |
while we were at this tent, fo I likewife procured _
fuch a fupply to carry with us, as was likely to
laft us to the Fort.

Early in the morning we took a final leave of ~
our hoft, and proceeded on our journey home- |
wards. One of the ftrangers accompanied us, for ~
which at firft I could not fee his motive; but
foon after our arrival at the Factory, [found that ~
the purport of his vifit was to be paid for the I
meat, faid to be given gratis to Mackachy while |
we were at his tent. The weather continued very |
fine, but extremely cold; and during this part of
my journey nothing material happened, till we |

arrived fafe at Prince of Wales’s Fort on the ele- |

venth of December, to my own great mortifica- |
tino, and to the no fimall furprife of the Governor, |
who had placed great confidence in the abilities |
and conduct of Chawchinahaw.

CHAP, |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

he Saar a aD)

Tranfactions from our arrival at the Factory, to
my leaving it again, and during the firft part
of my fecond journey, till I had the misfortune
to break the quadrant.

Tranfactions at the Factory.—Proceed on my fecond
journey.— Arrive at Seal River.—Deer plentiful
for fome time.— Method of angling fifb under the ice.
—Set our fifbing nets.—-Method of fetting nets un-
der the ice. —-My guide propofes to fray till the geefe
began to fly; his reafons accepted.—Pitch our tent
in the be/t manner.—Method of pitching a tent in
winter.—Fi/b plentiful for fome time; grow very
fcarce ; in great want of provifions—Manner of

employing my time—My guide killed two deer.—
Move to the place they were lying at ; there kill fe-
veral more deer, and three beavers.—Soon in want
of provifions again.— Many Indians jain us from the
Weftward.—We begin to move towards the barren

_ ground—Arrive at She-than-nee, and there fuffer
great diftre/s for want of provifions.—Indians kill
two fwans and three geefe.—Geefe and other birds of
paffage plentiful.— Leave She-than-nee, and arrive
at Beralzone.—One of my companions guns burfts,
and fhatters his left hand.—Leave Beralzone, and
get on the barren ground, clear of al! woods.—Throw

away

‘ A JOURNEY TO THE

a away our fledges and fnow fhoes.—Each perfon takes
a load on his back; my part of the luggage.—Ex-
pofed to many hard/bips.—Several days without
victuals.—Indians kill three mufk oxen, but for
want of fire are obliged to eat the meat raw.—Fine
weather returns; make a fire; effects of long fa/ting ;
fray a day or two todry fome meat in the fun.—Pro- |
ceed to the Northward, and arrive at Cathawhac-
haga; there find fome tents of Indians. —A Northern
leader called Keelchies meets us; fend aletter by
him to the Governor.—Tranfaétions at Cathaw-
hachaga; leave it, and proceed to the Northward.
—Meet feveral Indians.— My guide not willing to
proceed; bis reafons for it—Many more Indians
join us.——Arrive at Doobaunt Whoie River. —Man-
ner of ferrying over rivers in the Northern Indian
canoes. No rivers in thofe parts in aufeful direct-
on for the natives.—Had nearly loft the quadrant and
all the powder.—Some reflections on our fituation,
and the conduct of the Indians. —Find the quadrant
and part of the powder.—Obferve for the latitude.
— Quadrant broke.—Refolve to return again to the
Faéiory.

b

$70, URING my abfence from Prince of |
ie ao) Wales’s Fort on my former journey, feveral
Februarye Northern Indians arrived in great diftrefs at the
Fatory, and were employed in fhooting partridg-

es for the ufe of our people at the Fort. One of

thofe Indians. called Conne-e-quefe faid, he had

been very near to the famous river I was engaged

to

NORTHERN OCEAN.

to go in queft of. Accordingly Mr. Norton en-
gaged him and two other Northern Indians to
accompany me on this fecond attempt; but to
avoid all incumbrances as much as poflible, it was
thought advifable not to take any women*, that
the Indians might have fewer to provide for. I
would not permit any European to go with me,
but two of the home guard (Southern) Indian men
were to accompany meas before. Indeed the In-
dians, both Northern and Southern, . paid fo lit-
tle attention to Ifbefter and Merriman on my for-
mer journey, particularly in times of -{carcity,
that I was determined not to take them with me
in future; though the former was very defirous
to accompany me again, and was well calculated
to encounter the hardfhips of fuch an.undertak-
ing. Merriman was quite fick of fuch excurfions,
and fo far from offering his fervice a fecond time,
feemed to be very thankful that he was once more
arrived in fafety among his friends; for before he
got to the Factory he had contracted a moft vio-
lent cold.

* Having come to the above refolutions, and final-
ly determined on the number of Indians that were
to accompany us, we were again fitted out with
a large fupply of ammunition, and as many other

ufefularticles as we could conveniently take with
us

* This was a propofal of the Governor’s, though he well knew we could
not do without their affiftance, both for hauling our baggage, as well as
dreffing {kins for clothing, pitching out tent, getting firing, &c.

i i | 4
1770. 3 i
Se) 7

February.

14

1740.

A JOURNEY TO THE
us, together with a {mall fample of light trading

t-—.— goods, for prefents to the Indians, as before,

February.

22d,
4

My inftructions on this occafion amounted to
no more than an order to proceed as faft as pof-
fible; and for my conduct during the journey,
I was referred to my former inftructions No--
vember 6th, 1769.

Every thing being in readinefs for our depar-
ture, on the twenty-third of February I began my
fecond journey, accompanied by three Northern
Indians and two of the home-guard (Southern) In-

' dians. I took particular care, however, that

Mackachy, though an excellent hunter, fhould not
be of our party; as he had proved himfelf, dur-
ing my former journey, to be a fly artful villain.

The fnow at this time was fo deep on the top
of the ramparts, that few of the cannon were to
be feen, otherwife the Governor would have fa-
luted me at my departure, as before; but as thofe
honours could not pofiibly be of any fervice to
my expedition, I readily relinquifhed every thing
of the kind; and in lieu of it, the Governor, of-
ficers, and people, infifted on giving me three
cheers.

After leaving the Factory, we continued our
courfe in much the fame direction as in my for-
mer journey, till we arrived at Seal River; when,
inftead of crofling it, and walking on the barren
grounds as before, we followed the courfe of the
river, except in two particular places, where the
bends tended fo much to the South, that by croff-

ing

NORTHERN OCEAN.

IS

ing two necks of land not more than five or fix y 470,

miles wide, we faved the walking of near twenty
miles each time, and {till came to the main river
again. |

The weather had been fo remarkably boifterous
and changeable, that we were frequently obliged
to continue two or three nights in the fame place.
To make up for this inconveniency, deer were fo
plentiful for the firft eight or ten days, that the
Indians killed as many as. was neceflary ; but we
were all fo heavy laden that we could not poflibly
take much ofthe meat with us. This I foon per-
ceived to bea great evil, which expofed us to fuch
frequent inconveniences, that in cafe of not kill-
ing any thing for three or four days together, we
were in great want of provifions; we feldom,

however, went to bed entirely fupperlefs till the:

eighth of March; when though we had only walk-
edabout eight miles that morning, and expended
all the remainder of the day in hunting, we could
not produce a fingle thing at night, not even a
partridge ! nor had we difcerned the track of any
thing that day, which was likely to afford us
hopes of better fuccefs in the morning. This be-
ing the cafe, we prepared fome hooks and lines
ready to angle for fifh, as our tent was then by the
fide ofa lake belonging to Seal River, which
feemed by its fituation to afford fome profpedt of
fuccefs. - .
Early in the morning we took down our tent,
and moved about five miles to the Weft by South,
to

arch.

16

1770.

-+~—/ ous for fifhing than that where we had been the.

March.

1gth.

2oth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

to a part of the lake that feemed more commodi-

night before. As foon as we arrived at this place,
fome were immediately employed cutting holes in
thé ice, while others pitched the tent, got fire-
wood, &c.; after which, for it was early in the
morning, thofe who pitched the tent went a hunt-
ing, and at night one of them returned with a
porcupine, while thofe who were angling caught
feveral fine trout, which afforded us a plentiful
fupper, and we had fome trifle left for breakfaft,

Angling for fifh under the ice in winter re-
quires no other procefs, than cutting round holes
in the ice from one to two feet diameter, and let-
ting down a baited hook, which is always kept in
motion, not only to prevent the water from freez-
ing fo foon as it would do if fuffered to remain
quite ftill, but becaufe it is found at the fame time

to bea great means of alluring the fifth tothe —

hole; for it is always obferved that the fifh in

thofe parts will take a bait which is in motion, |

much fooner than one that is at reft.
_ Early in the morning we again purfued our

angling, and all the forenoon being expended ©
without any fuccefs, we took down our tent and |
pitched it again about eight miles farther to the _
Weftward, on the fame lake, where we cut more |
holes in the ice for angling, and that night caught |
feveral fine pike. The next day we moved about |
five miles to the South Weft, down a fmall river; |

where we pitched our tent; and having fet four |
7 fifhing |

|
|
|
j

NORTHERN OCEAN. 1

fifhing nets, in the courfe of the day we caught 1770.
many fine fifh, particularly pike, trout, tittymeg, 5 a
and a coarfe kind of fifh known in Hudfon’s Bay “a
by the name of Methy*.
To fet a net under the ice, it is firft neceflary
to afcertain its exact length, by ftretching it out
upon the ice near the part propofed for fetting it.
This being done, a number of round holes are cut
in the ice, at ten or twelve feet diftance from each
other, and as many in number as will be fufficient
to ftretch the net at its fulllength. A lineis then
paffed under the ice, by means of a long light
pole, which is firft introduced at one of the end
holes, and, by means of two forked fticks, this
pole is eafily conduéted. or pafled from one hole
to another, under the ice, till it arrives at the laft.
The pole is then taken out, and both ends of the
line being properly fecured, is always ready for
ufe. The net is made faft to one end of the
_ line by one perfon, and hauled under the ice by
a fecond; a large ftone is tied to each of the lower
corners, which ferves to keep the net expanded,
and prevents it rifing from the bottom with every
waft of the current. The Europeans fettled in
Hudfon’s Bay proceed much in the fame manner,
though they in general take much more pains ;
but the above method is found quite fufficient by
the Indians.
In order to fearch a net thus fet, the two end
C hoies

* The Methy are generally caught with a hook; and the beft time for
that fport is in the night; and if the night be dark, the better.

18

1770,

A JOURNEY TO THE

holes only are opened; the line is veered away

yen by one perfon, and the net hauled from under

March.

2rt.

the ice by another; after all the fifth are taken
out, the net is eafily hauled back to its former
ftation, and there fecured as before.

As this place feemed likely to afford us a con-
fant fupply of fifh, my guide propofed to ftay
here till the geefe began to fly, which in thofe
Northern parts is feldom before the middle of
May. His reafons for fo doing feemed well
founded: ‘* The weather; he faid, is at this time
“too cold to walk on the barren grounds, and
** the woods from this part lead fo much to the
“* Weitward, that were we to continue travelling
‘in any tolerable fhelter, our courfe would not
** be better than Weft South Weft, which would
“ only be going out of our way ; whereas, if we
‘* fhould remain here till the weather permit us
‘© to walk due North, over the barren grounds,
“‘ we fhall then in one month get farther ad-
*s vanced on our journey, than if we were to
‘“* continue travelling all the remainder of the
“¢ winter in the {weep of the woods.”

Thefe reafons appeared to me very judicious,
and as the plan feemed likely to be attended with
little trouble, it met with my entire approbation.
That being the cafe, we took additional pains in
building our tent, and made it as commodious as
the materials and fituation would admit.

To pitch an Indian’s tent in winter, it is firit
neceflary to fearch for.a level piece of dry ground;

which

——————————

NORTHERN OCEAN.

which cannot be afcertained but by thrufting a
ftick through the {now down to the ground, all
over the propofed part. Whenaconvenient fpot
is found, the {now is then cleared away in a cir-
cular form to the very mofs; and when it is pro-
pofed to remain more than a night or two in one
place, the mofs is alfo cut up and removed, as it
is very liable when dry to take fire, and occafion
much trouble to the inhabitants. A quantity of
poles are then procured, which are generally pro-
portioned both in number and length to the fize
of the tent cloth, and the number of perfons it is
intended to contain. If one of the poles fhould
not happen to be forked, two of them are tied
together near the top, then raifed erect, and their

buts or lower ends extended as wide as the pro-’ -

pofed diameter of the tent; the other poles are
then fet round at equal diftances from each other,
and in fuch order, that their lower ends form a
complete circle, which gives boundaries to the
tent on all fides: the tent cloth is then faftened
to a light pole, which is always raifed up and put
round the poles from the weather fide, fo that the
two edges that lap over and form the door are
always to the leeward. It muft be underftood
that this method is only in ufe when the Indians
are moving from place to place every day; for
when they intend to continue any time in one
place, they always make the door of their tent to

face the South.
The tent cloth is ufually of thin Moofe leather,
C2 drefled

19
1770.

March.

20 A JOURNEY TO THE
1770. drefied and made by the Indians, and in fhape it
~~~ nearly refembles a fan-mount inverted; fo that
when the largeft curve inclofes the bottom of the
poles, the {maller one is always {ufficient to cover
the top; except a hole, which is defignedly left
open to ferve the double purpofe of chimney and ~
window.
The fire is always made on the ground in the
center, and the remainder of the floor, or bottom
of the tent, is covered all over with {mall bran-
ches of the pine tree, which ferve both for feats
and beds. A quantity of pine tops and branches
are laid round the bottom of the poles on the out-
fide, over which the eves of the tent is ftaked
down ;. a quantity of fnow is then packed over
all, which excludes great part of the external air,
and contributes greatly to the warmth within.
The tent here defcribed is fuch as is made ule of
by the Southern Indians, and the fame with
which ] was furnifhed at the Factory; for that
made ufe of by the Northern Indians is made of
different materials, and is of a quite different
fhape, as fhall be defcribed hereafter..
The fituation of our tent at this time was tru-
ly pleafant, particularly for a fpring refidence;
being on afmall elevated point, which command-
ed an extenfive profpecét over a large lake, the
fhores ef which abounded with wood of different
“kinds, fuch as pine, larch, birch, and poplar ; and
in many places was beautifully contrafted with a
~variety of high hills, that fhewed their fnowy
Nem te fum mits

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fummits above the tallef{ woods. About two

2%

-1770.

hundred yards from the tent was a fall, or rapid, Uw

_ which the {wiftnefs of the current prevents from
freezing in the coldeft winters. At the bottom
of this fall, which empties itfelf into the above
lake, was a fine fheet of open water-near a mile
in length, and at leaft half a mile in breadth; by
the margin of which we had our fifhing nets fet,
‘allin open view from the tent.

The remaining part of this month pafled on
without any interruption, or material occurrence,
to difturb our repofe, worth relating: our fith-
ing nets provided us with daily food, and the In-
dians had too much philofophy about them to
give themfelves much additional trouble; for
during the whole time not.one of them offered
to look for a partridge, or any thing elfe which
-could yield a change of diet.

-As the time may now be fuppofed to have taih
heavy on my hands, it may not be improper to

- inform the reader how I employed it. Inthe firft

place, Lembraced every favourable opportunity
of obferving the latitude of the place, the mean of
which was 58° 46’ ae North; and the longitude
by account was 5° 57’ Wet, from Prince of
Wales’s Fort. I then corrected my reckoning
from my laft obfervation; brought up my jour-
nal, and filled up my phere: to the place of our
refidence. I built alfo fome traps, and caught a
few martins ; and by way of faving my ammuni-
tion, fet fome fnares for partridges. The former
; a3

March.

22

A JOURNEY TO THE

1770, 18 performed by means of a few logs, fo arranged
\-—~ that when the martin attempts to take away the

April.

bait laid for him, he with very little ftruggle pulls
down a {mall poft that fupports the whole weight
of the trap; when, if the animal be not killed by
the weight of the logs, he is confined rill he be
frozen to death, or killed by the hunter going
his rounds.

To {nare partridges requires no other procefs
than making a few little hedges acrofs a creek, or
a few fhort hedges projecting at right angles from
the fide of an ifland of wiJlows, which thofe birds
are found to frequent. Several openings mutt
be left in each hedge, to admit the birds to pafs
through, andin each of them a fnare mutt be fet;

- fo that when the partridges are hopping along the

edge of the willows to feed, which is their ufual
cuftom, fome of them foon get into the fnares,
where they are confined till they are taken out.
Ihave caught from three to ten partridges in a
day by this fimple contrivance; which requires
no farther attendance than going round them
night and morning.

‘Ihave already obferved that nothing material
happened to difturb our repofe till the firft of
April, when to our great furprife the fifhing nets
did not afford us a fingle fifh. Though fome of
the preceding days had been pretty fuccefsful,
yet my companions, like true Indians, feldom
went to fleep till they had cleared the tent of
every article of provifion. As nothing was to be

caught

NORTHERN OCEAN.

caught in the nets, we all went out to angle;
but in this we were equally unfuccefsful, as we
could not procure one fifh the whole day. This
fudden change of circumftances alarmed one of
my companions fo much, that he began to think
of refuming the ufe of his gun, after having laid
it by for near a month.

Early in the morning we arofe; when my guide
Conne-e-quefe went a hunting, and the reit at-
tended the nets and hooks near home; but all
with fuch bad fuccefs, that we could not procure
enough in one day to ferve two men for a fupper.
This, inftead of awakening the reft of my com-
panions, fent them to fleep; and fcarcely any
of them had the prudence to look at the fifhing
nets, though they were not more than two or
three hundred yards from the tent door.

My guide, who was a fteady man, and an ex-
cellent hunter, having for many years been ac-
cuftomed to provide for a large family, feemed
by far the moft induftrious of all my crew; he
_ clofely purfued his hunting for feveral days, and
feldom returned to the tent till after dark, while
thofe at the tent pafled moft of their time in
{moking and fleeping.

Several days pafled without any figns of relief,
till the roth, when my guide continued out lon-
ger than ordinary, which made us conjecture that
he had met with ftrangers, or feen fome deer, or
other game, which occafioned his delay. We all
therefore lay down to fleep, having had but little

refrefh-

ay
1770.

a)
April.

yoth.

24 A JOURNEY TO THE

‘170, refrefhment for the three preceding days, except

i a pipe of tobacco and a draught of water; even

partridges had become {o fcarce that not one was

to be got; the heavy thaws had driven them all

‘out towards the barren grounds. About mid-

night, to our great joy, our hunter arrived, and

brought with him the blood and fragments of

two deer that he had killed. This unexpected

fuccefs foon roufed the fleepers, who, in an in-

ftant were bufily employed in cooking a large

ee of broth, made with the blood, and fome

at and fcraps of meat fhred {mall, boiled in it.

This might be reckoned a dainty difh at any time,

but was more particularly fo in our prefent almoft
famifhed condition.

After partaking of this refrefhment, we refum-
ed our reft, and early in the morning fet out in a
body for the place where the deer were lying.
As we intended to make our ftay but fhort, we
left our tent flanding, containing all our. bag-
gave. On our arrival at the place of deftination,

uth. fome were immediately employed in making a
hut or-barrocado, with young pine trees; while
one man fkinned the deer, the remainder went a
hunting, and in the afternoom returned to the
hut, after having killed twodeer.

Several days were now fpent in feafting and
gluttony; during which the Indians killed five
more deer and three fine beavers; finding at
lat, however, that there was little profpect of
procuring either more deer or beavers, we deter-

mined

NORTHERN OCEAN.

mined to return to our tent, with the remains of
what we had already obtained.

The ficth of thefe deer, though none of the
largeft, might with frugality ‘have ferved our
{mall number, (being only fix) for fome time ;
but my companions, like other Indians, feafted
day and night while it lafted; and were {fo indo-
lent and unthinking, as not to attend properly
to the fifhing-nets; fo that many fine fifh, which
had been entangled in the nets, were entirely
{fpoiled, and in about twelve or fourteen days we
were nearly in as, great diftrefs for provifions as
ever.

During the courfe of our long inattivity, Saw-
fop-o-kifhac, commonly called Soflop, my princi-

pal Southern Indian, as he was -cutting: fome’

birch for fpoons,» dishes, and other neceflary
houfehold furniture, had the misfortune to cut
his leg in fuch a manner’as to be incapable of
walking ; and the other Southern Indian, though
a much younger man, ‘was fo indolent as not to
- be of any fervice tome, except hauling part of
our luggage, and eating up part of the provifions
which had been provided by the more induftrious,
part of my companions. |

On the twenty-fourth, early in the day, a great .

body of Indians. was feen to the South Weft, on
the largelake by the fide of which our tent ftood,
On‘their arrival at our tent we difcovered them
to be the wives and families of the Northern In-
dian goofe-hunters, who were gone to Prince of

Wales’s

45
1770.

_ April.
22d: >

24th.

26

A JOURNEY TO THE

1770. Wales’s Fort to attend the feafon. They were

April.
27th,

2oth.

May.

13th.

bound toward the barren ground, there to wait
the return of their hufbands and relations from
the Fort, after the termination of the goofe-
feafon. |

My guide having for fome days paft determin-
ed to move toward the barren ground, this
morning we took down our tent, packed up our
luggage, and proceeded to the Eaftward in the
fame track we came; but Soflop being fo lame
as to be obliged to be hauled ona fledge, IJ eafily
prevailed on two of the Indians who had joined
us on the 24th, and-who were purfuing the fame
road, to perform this fervice for him.

After two days good walking in our old track,
we arrived at a part of Seal River called She-
than-nee, where we pitched our tent and fet both
our fifhing-nets, intending to ftay there till the
geefe began to fy. Though we had feen feveral
{wans and fome geefe flying to the Northward, it
was the thirteenth of May before we could pro-
cure any. Onthat day the Indians killed two
{wans and three geefe. This in fome meafure
alleviated our diftrefs, which at that time was
very great; having had no other fubfiftence for
five or fix days, than a few cranberries, that we
gathered from the dry ridges where the {now was
thawed away in fpots; for though we fet our
fifhing-nets in the beft judged places, and angled
at every part that was likely to afford fuccefs, we
only caught three fmall fifh during the whole

| | time.

NORTHERN OCEAN. 27

“~

time. Many of the Northern Indians, who had 1770.
joined us on the 24th of April, remained in oun ae
company for fome time; and though I well
knew they had had a plentiful winter, and had
then good ftocks of dried meat by them, and
were alfo acquainted with our diftrefs, they ne-
ver gave me or my Southern companions the
leaft fupply, although they had in fecret ike
provided for our Nobehietin guides.

By the nineteenth, the geefe, fwans, ducks, roth.
gulls, and other birds of paflage, were fo plentiful
that we killed every day as many as were {uffici-
ent for our fupport; and having ftopped a few
days to recruit our fpirits after fo long a faft, on
the twenty-third we began once more to pro- = 23a.
ceed toward the barren ground. Soflop having
now perfectly recovered from his late misfortune,
every thing feemed to have a favourable appear-
ance; efpecially as my crew had been augmented
to twelve perfons, by the addition of one of my
guide’s wives, and five others, whom I had en-
gaged to affift in carrying our luggage; and I
well knew, from the feafon of the year, that
hauling would foon be at-an end for the fum.
mer.

The thaws having been by this time fo great as
to render travelling in the woods almoft imprac-
ticable, we continue our courfe to the Eaft on
Seal River, about fixteen miles farther, when we
came to a {mall river, anda ftring of lakes con-
nected with it, that tended to the North.

The

28
1770.

|
jane.

rit.

sth.

o
=

rr
oO
or
=a

A JOURNEY TO THE

The weather for fome time was remarkably
fine and pleafant. Game of all kinds was ex-
ceedingly plentiful, and we continued our courfe _

to the Northward on the above river and lakes —

till the firft of June, when we arrived at a place
called Beralzone. In our way thither, befide kill. _

‘ing more geefe than was necefiary, we fhot two

deer. One of my companions had now the mif-
fortune to fhatter his hand very much by the
burfting of a gun; but as no bones were broken,
I bound up the wound, and with the affiftance of
fome of Turlington’s drops, yellow bafilicon, &c.
which I had with me, foon reftored the ufe of his
hand; fo that in a very fhort time he feemed to
be out of all danger.

After {topping a few days at Beralzone, to dry
a little venifon and a few geefe, we again pro-
ceeded to the Northward on the barren ground;
for on our leaving this place we foon got clear of
all the woods.

The fnow was by this time fo foft as to render
walking in fnow-fhoes very laborious; and
though the ground was bare in many places, yet,

at times, and in particular places, the fnow-drifts
were fo deep, that we could not poflibly do with-
out them. By the fixth, however, the thaws
were fo general, and the fnows fo much melted,
that as our fnow-fhoes were attended with more

trouble than fervice, we all confented to throw

them away. ‘Till the tenth, our fledges proved
ferviceable, particularly in croffing lakes and.
~ ponds

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ponds on the ice; but that mode of travelling

now growing dangerous on account of the great

thaws, we determined to throw away our fledg.
es, and every one to take a load on his back.

This I found to be much harder work than the
Winter carriage, as my part of the luggage con-

fifted of the following articles, viz. the quadrant
and its ftand, a trunk containing books, papers, ~’

&c. a land-compafs, and a large bag containing
all my wearing apparel ; alfo a hatchet, knives,
files, &c. befide feveral fmall articles, intended
for prefents to the natives. The aukwardnefs of
my load, added to its great weight, which was
upward of fixty pounds, and the exceffive heat
of the weather, rendered walking the moft labo-
rious tafk I had ever encountered; and what
confiderably increafed the hardfbip, was the bad-
nefs of the road, and the coarfenels of our lodg-
ing, being, on account of the want of proper
tents, expofed to the utmoft feverity of the wea.
ther. ‘Phe tent we had with us was not only too
large, and unfit for barren ground fervice, where
no poles were to be got, but we had been obliged
to cut it up for fhoes, and each perfon carried
his own fhare. Indeed my guide behaved both
negligently and ungeneroufly on this occafion ;

-as he never made me, or my Southern Indians,

acquainted with the nature of pitching tents on

the barren ground; which had he done, we
could aa have procured a fet of poles before
we left the” woods. He took care, however, to

procure

30

A JOURNEY TO THE

1770, procure a fet for himfelf and his wife; and when
.——~ the tent was divided, though he made fhift to get

June.

23d.

a piece large enough to ferve him for a complete
little tent, he never afked me or my Southern
Indians to put our heads into it. |

Befide the inconvenience of being expofed to
the open air, night and day, in all weathers, we
experienced real diftrefs from the want of vittu-
als. When provifions were procured, it often
happened that we could not make a fire, fo that
we were obliged to eat the meat quite raw;
which at firft, in the article of fifh particularly,
was as little relifhed by my Southern companions
as myfelf. j

Notwithftanding thefe accumulated and com-
plicated hardfhips, we continued in perfect health
and good fpirits; and my guide, though a per-
fect niggard of his provifions, efpecially in times
of fcarcity, gave us the firongeft aflurance of
foon arriving at a plentiful country, which
would not only afford us acertain fupply of pro-
vifions, but where we fhould meet with other
Indians, who probably would be willing to carry
part of our luggage. This news naturally gave
us great confolation ; for at that time the weight
of our conftant loads was fo great, that when
Providence threw any thing in our way, we
could not carry above two days provifions with
us, which indeed was the chief reafon of our be-
ing fo frequently in want.

From the twentieth to the twenty-third we

walked

NORTHERN OCEAN. 31

walked every day near twenty miles, without 1770.
any other fubfiftence than a pipe of tobacco, and -~~
a drink of water when we pleafed: even par- oi
tridges and gulls, which fome time before were
in great plenty, and eafily procured, were now fo
{carce and fhy, that we could rarely get one; and
as to geefe, ducks, &c. they had all flown to the
Northward to breed and molt.

Early in the morning of the twenty-third, we
fet out as ufual, but had not walked above feven
or eight miles before we faw three mufk-oxen
grazing by the fide of a {mall lake. The Indi-
ans immediately went in purfuit of them; and
as fome of them were expert hunters, they foon
killed the whole of them. This was no doubt
very fortunate ; but, to our great mortification,
before we could get one of them fkinned, fuch a
fall of rain came on, as to put it quite out of our
power to make a fire; which, even in the fineft
weather, could only be made of mofs, as we were
near an hundred miles from any woods. This
was poor comfort for people who had not broke
their faft for four or five days. Neceflity, how-
ever, has no law; and having been before initi-
-ated into the method of eating raw meat, we
were the better prepared for this repaft: but this
was by no means fo well relifhed, either by me
or the Southern Indians, as either raw venifon or
raw fith had been: for the flefh of the mufk-ox
is not only coarfe and tough, but fmells and
taftes fo ftrong of mufk as to make it very difa-

agreeable

32

A JOURNEY TO THE

1770. greeable when raw, though it is tolerable eating
‘—-— when properly cooked. The weather continued fo

June.

remarkably bad, accompanied with conftant hea-
vy rain, {now and fleet, and our neceflities were
fo great.by the time the weather permitted us to
make a fire, that we had nearly eat to the amount
of one buffalo quite raw, '

Notwithftanding | muftered up all my philofo-
phy on this occafion, yet | muft confefs that my
{pirits began to fail me. Indeed our other mis-.
fortunes .were greatly aggravated by the incle-
mency of the weather, which was not only cold,
but fo very wet that for near three days and
nights, I had not one dry thread about me.. When
the fine weather returned, we made a fire, though
it was only of mofs, as I have already obferved ;
and having got my cloaths dry, all things feem-
ed likely to go on in the old channel, though
that was indifferent enough; but I endeavoured, |
like a failor after a ftorm, to forget paft misfor-
tunes.

None of our natural wants, if we except thirft, —
are fo diftrefling, or hard to endure, as hunger ;
and in wandering fituations, like that which I |
now experienced, the hard{fhip is greatly aggra-
vated by the uncertainty with refpect to its du- _
ration, and the means moft prover to be ufed to |
remove it, as well as by the labour and fatigue |
we mutt neceflarily undergo for that purpofe,
and the difappointments which too frequently
fruftrate our beft concerted plans and moft fire-

| nuous

NORTHERN OCEAN.

nuous exertions : it not only enfeebles the body,
but cepreffes the {pirits, in {pite of every effort to
prevent it. Befides, for want of action, the fto-
mach fo far lofes its digeftive powers, that after
Jong fafling it refumes its office with pain and
reluctance. During this journey I have too fre-
quently experienced the dreadful effects of this
calamity, and more than once been reduced to
fo low a ftate by hunger and fatigue, that when
Providence threw any thing in my way, my fto-
mach has fcarcely been able to retain more than
two or three ounces, without producing the
-moft oppreffive pain. Another difagreeable cir-
cumftance of long fafting is, the extreme diffi-
culty and pain attending the natural evacuations
for the firft time; and which is fo dreadful, that
of it none but thofe who have experienced can
have an adequate idea.

To record in detail each day’s fare fince the
commencement of this journey, would be little
more than a‘dull repetition of the fame occur-
rences. A fufficient idea of it may be given ina
few words, by obferving that it may juftly be faid
to have been either all feafting, or all famine:
fometimes we had too much, feldom juft enough,
frequently too little, andoften none at all. It
will be only neceffary to fay that we have fatted
many times two whole days and nights; twice
upwards of three days; and once, while at She-
than-nee, near feven days, during which we taft-
ed not a mouthful of any thing, except a few

D cran-

34

1770.

A JOURNEY TO THE

cranberries, water, fcraps of old leather, and

t—— burnt bones. On thofe prefling occafions Ihave

June.

frequently feen the Indians examine their ward-
robe, which confifted chiefly of fkin-clothing,
and confider what part could beft be fpared ;
fometimes a piece of an old, half-rotten deer fkin,
and at others a pair of old fhoes, were facrificed
to alleviate extreme hunger. The relation of
fuch uncommon hardfhips may perhaps gain lit-
tle credit in Europe; while thofe who are con-
verfant with the hiftory of Hudfon’s Bay, and
who are thoroughly acquainted with the diftrefs
which the natives of the country about it fre-
quently endure, may confider them as no more
than the common occurrences of an Indian life,
in which they are frequently driven to the ne-
ceflity of eating one another.*

Knowing

* It is the general opinion of the Southern Indians, that when any of
their tribe have been driven to the neceflity of eating human flefh, they
become fo fond of it, that no perfon is fafe in their company. And
though itis well known they are never guilty of making this horrid repaft
but when driven to it by neceffity, yet thofe who have made it are not
only fhunned, but fo univerfally detefted by all who know them, that no
Indians will tent with them, and they are frequently murdered flily. I
have feen feveral of thofe poor wretches who, unfortunately for them,
have come under the above defcription, and though they were perfons
much efteemed before hunger had driven them to this aét, were after-
wards fo univerfally defpifed and neglected, that a fmile never graced
their countenances: deep melancholy has been feated on their brows,
while the eye moft expreflively fpoke the diétates of the heart, and
feemed to fay, “* Why do you defpife me for my misfortunes? the peri-
‘tod is probably, not far diftant, when you may be driven to the like ne«
* ceflity !”

In the Spring of the year 2775, when I was building Cumberland

Houfe,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

_ Knowing that our conftant loads would not
permit us to carry much provifions with us, we
agreed to continue a day or two to refrefh our-
felves, and to dry a little meat in the fun, as it
thereby not only becomes more portable, but is
always ready for ufe. On the twenty-fixth, all
that remained of the mufk-ox flefh being proper-
ly dried and fit for carriage, we began to pro-
ceed on our journey Northward, and on the thir-
tieth of June arrived at a {mall river, called Ca-
thawhachaga, which empties itfelf into a large

lake called Yath-kyed-whoie, or White Snow

Lake. Here we found feveral tents of Northern
Indians, who had been fome time employed
{pearing deer in their canoes, as they crofled the
above mentioned little river. Here alfo we met

D 2 a Nor-

Houfe, an Indian, whofe name was Wapoos, came to the fettlement, ata
time when fifteen tents of Indians were on the plantations: they examin-
ed him very minutely, and found he had come a confiderable way by him-
felf, without a gun, or ammunition. This made many of them conjec-
ture he had met with, and killed, fome perfon by the way; and this was
the more eafily credited, from the care he teok to conceal a bag of provifi-
ens, which he had brought with him, in a lofty pine-tree near the houfe.

Being a ftranger, 1 invited him in, though I faw he had nothing for
trade; andduring that interview, fome of the Indian women examined his
bag, and gave it as their opinion that the meat it contained was human
flefh: in confequence, it was not without the interference of fome princi-
*pal Indians, whofe liberality of fentiment was more extenfive than that in
the others, the poor creature faved his life. Many of the men cleaned
and loaded their guns; others had their bows and arrows ready; and even
the women took poffeffion of the hatchets, to kill this poor inoffenfive
wretch, for no crime but that of travelling about two hundred miles by
himéelf, unaffifted by fire-arms for fupport in his journey,

35

1770.
Se]

June.

26th.

joth.

36
1770.

ee
July.

A JOURNEY TO THE

a Northern Indian Leader, or Captain, called
Keelfhies, and a {mall party of his crew, who
were bound to Prince of Wales’s Fort, with furs
and other commodities for trade. When Keel-
fhies was made acquainted with the intent of my
journey, he readily offered his fervice to bring me —
any thing from the Factory that we were likely
to ftand in need of; and though we were then
in latitude 63° 4’ North, and longitude 7° 12!
Weft from Churchill, yet he promifed to join us
again, ata place appointed by my guide, by the
fetting in of the Winter. In confequence of this
offer, 1 looked over our ammunition and other
articles; and finding that a little powder, fhot,
tobacco, and a few knives, were likely to be of
fervice before the journey could be completed, I
determined to fend a letter to the governor of
Prince of Wales’s Fort, to advife him of my fitu-
ation, and to defire him to fend by the bearer a
certain quantity of the above articles; on which
Keelfhies and his crew proceeded on their jour-
ney for the Factory the fame day.

Cathawhachaga was the only river we had feen
fince the breaking up of the ice that we could
not ford; and as we had not any canoes with us,
we were obliged to get ferried acrofs by the
firange Indians. When we arrived on the North
fide of this river, where the Indians refided, my
guide propofed to ftop fome time, to dry and
pound fome meat to take with us; to which I
readily confented. We alfo fet our fithing-nets,

and

NORTHERN OCEAN

and caught a confiderable quantity of very fine
fifth ; fuch as tittemeg, barble, &c.

The number of deer which crofled Cathawha-
chaga, during our ftay there, was by no means
equal to our expectations, and no more than juft
fufficient to fupply our prefent wants; fo that
after waiting feveral days in fruitlefs expectati-
on, we began to prepare for moving; and ac-
cordingly, on the fixth of July, we fet out,
though we had not at that time as much victu-
als belonging to our company as would furnifh
us a fupper. . During our ftay here, we had each
day got as much fith or flefh as was fufficient for
prefent expenditure; but, being in hopes of bet-
ter times, faved none.

Before we left Cathawhachaga, I made feveral
obfervations for the latitude, and found it to be
63° 4 North. I alfo brought up my journal,
and filled up my chart to that time. Every
thing being now ready for our departure, my

guide informed me that in a few days a canoe.

would be abfolutely neceflary, to enable us to
crofs fome unfordable rivers which we fhould
meet, and could not avoid. This induced me to
purchafe one at the eafy rate of a fingle knife, the
full value of which did not exceed one penny.
It muft be obferved, that the man who fold the
canoe had no farther occafion for it, and was glad
to take what he could get; but had he been tho-
‘Toughly acquainted with our neceflities he moft
afluredly would have had the confcience to.

have

37).

1770.
eyed

July.

éth,

38

A JOURNEY TO THE

1770, have afked goods to the amount of ten beaver
~~ fkins at leaft.

July.

gth.

7th.

This additional piece of luggage obliged me to
engage another Indian; and we were lucky
enough at that time to meet with a poor forlorn
fellow, who was fond of the office, having never
been in a much better ftate than that of a beaft of
burthen. Thus, provided with a canoe, anda
man ta carry it, we left Cathawhachaga, as has
been obfetved, on the fixth of July, and conti-
nued our courfe to the North by Welt, and North
North Weft; and that night put up by the fide
of a {mall bay of White Snow Lake, where we
angled, and caught feveral fine trout, fome of
which weighed not lefs than fourteen or fixteen
pounds. In the night heavy rain came on, which
continued three days; but the ninth proving fine
weather, and the fun difplaying his beams very
powerfully, we dried our clothes, and proceeded
to the Northward. Toward the evening, how-
ever, it began again to rain fo exceflively, that it
was with much difficulty we kept our powder and
books dry. |

On the feventeenth, we faw many mufk-oxen,
feveral of which the Indians killed; when we
agreed to ftay here a day or two, to dry and
pound * fome of the carcafes to take with us.

The

* To prepare meat in this manner, it requires no farther operation

than cutting the lean parts of the animal intothin flices, and drying it

in the fun, or by a flow fire, till, after beating it between two flones, it is
reduced to a coaife powder,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

The flefh of any animal, when it is thus prepared,

39
1770.

is not only hearty food, but is always ready for “wv

ufe, and at the fame time very portable. In moft
parts of Hudfon’s Bay it is known by the name
of Thew-hagon, but amongft the Northern Indi-
ans it is called Achees.

Having prepared as much dried flefh as we
could tranfport, we proceeded to the Northward;
and at our departure left a great quantity of meat
behind us, which we could neither eat nor carry
away. This was not the firft time we had fo done;
and however wafteful it may appear, it is a prac-
tice fo common among all the Indian tribes, as
to be thought nothing of. On the twenty-fe-
cond, we met feveral ftrangers, whom we joined
in purfuit of the deer, &c. which were at this
time fo plentiful, that we got every day a fuffi-
cient number for our fupport, and indeed too
frequently killed feveral merely for the tongues,
narrow, and fat.

' After we had been fome time in company with
thofe Indians, I found that my guide feemed to
hefitate about proceeding any farther; and that
he kept pitching his tent backward and forward,
from place to place, after the deer, and the reft
of the Indians. On my afking him his reafon for
fo doing; he anfwered, that as the year was too
far advanced to admit of our arrival at the Cop-
permine River that Summer, he thought it more
advifable to pafs the Winter with fome of the
Indians then in company, and alleged that there

| could

, July.

224.

40
1770s

| ee
july.

goth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

could be no fear of our arriving at that river
early j in the Summer of one thoufand feven hun-
dred and feventy-one. As I could not pretend
to contradict him, I was entirely reconciled to his
propofal; and accordingly we kept moving tothe

Welftward with the other Indians. In a few

days, many others joined us from different quar-
ters; fo that by the thirtieth of July we had in
all above feventy tents, which did not contain
lefs than fix hundred perfons. Indeed our en-
campment at night had the appearance of a {mall
town; and in the morning, when we began to
move, the whole ground (at leaft for a large
{pace all round) feemed to be alive, with men,
women, children, and dogs. Though the land
was entirely barren, and deftitute of every kind
of herbage, except wifh-a-capucca * and mofs, yet
the deer were fo numerous that the Indians not
only killed as many as were fufficient for our large

number, but often feveral merely for the fkins,

marrow, &c. and left the carcafes to rot, or to be
devoured by the wolves, foxes, and other beafts
ofprey. ,

In our way to the Weftward we came to feveral
rivers, which, though fmall and of no note, were
fo deep as not to be fordable, particularly Doo-
baunt Rivert. On thofe occafions only, we

had

* With-a-capucca is the name given by the natives to a plant which is
found all over the country bordering on Hudfon’s Bay; and an infufion
Of it is ufed as tea by all the Europeans fettled in that country.

f This river, as well as all others deferving that appellation which 1

crofied

~

NORTHERN OCEAN.

4I

had recourfe to our canoe, which, though of the 1770.
common fize, was too {mall to carry more than ——~

two perfons; one of whom always lies down at
full length for fear of making the canoe top-hea-
vy, and the other fits on his heels and paddles.
This method of ferrying over rivers, though
tedious, is the moft expeditious way thefe poor
people can contrive; for they are fometimes ob-
liged to carry their canoes one hundred and fifty,
or two hundred miles, without having occafion
to make ufe of them; yet at times they cannot
do without them; and were they not very {mall
and portable, it would be impoflible for one man
to carry them, which they are often obliged to

do, not only the diftance above mentioned, but .

even the whole Summer.

The perfon I engaged at Cathawhachaga to car-
ry my canoe proving too weak for the tafk, ano-
ther of my crew was obliged to exchange loads
with him, which feemed perfectly agreeable to all
parties; and as we walked but fhort days jour-
nies, and deer were very plentiful, all things went
on every {moothly. Nothing material happened
till the eighth, when we were near lofing the
quadrant and all our powder from the following
circumftance: the fellow who had been releafed
from carrying the canoe proving too weak, as hath

been

croffed during this part of my journey, ran to the Eaft and North Eaft;
and both them and the Jakes were perfedtly frefh, and inhabited by fith
that are well known never to frequent falt water,

Augutt,

6th.

8th,

42

1770,
ne

Augult.

A JOURNEY TO THE

been already obferved, had, after the exchange, - |
nothing to carry but my powder and his own
trifles; the latter were indeed very inconfidera-
ble, not equal in fize and weight to a foldier’s
knapfack. As I intended to have a little fport
with the deer, and knowing his load to be much
lichter than mine, I gave him the quadrant and
fland to carry, which he took without the leaft
hefitation, or feeming ill-will, Having thus eaf-
ed myfelf for the prefent of a heavy and cumber-
fome part of my load, I fet out early in the mor-
ning with fome of the Indian men; and after walk-
ing about eight or nine miles, faw, from the top
ofa high hill, a great number of deer feeding in a
neighbouring valley ; on which we laid down our
loads and erected a flag, as a fignal for the others
to pitch their tents there for the night. We then
purfued our hunting, which proved very fuccefl-
ful. At night, however, when we came to the
hill where we had left our baggage, I found that
only part of the Indians had arrived, and that the
man who had been entrufted with my powder
and quadrant, had fet off another way, with a
fmall party of Indians that had been in our com-
pany that morning. The evening being far ad-
vanced, we were obliged to defer going in fearch
of him till the morning, and as his track could
not be eafily difcovered in the Summer, the South-
ern Indians, as well as myfelf, were very uneafy, ©
fearing we had loft the powder, which was to pro-_ |
vide us with food and raiment the remainder of |

our

NORTHERN OCEAN.

43

' ourjourney. The very uncourteous behaviour 1770,

of the Northern Indians then in company, gave
me little hopes of receiving affliftance from them,
any longer than I had wherewithal to reward them
for their trouble and expence; for during the
whole time I had been with them, not one of them
had offered to give me the leaft morfel of victuals,
without afking fomething in exchange, which, in
general, was three times the value of what they
could have got for the fame articles, had they car-
ried them to the Factory, though feveral hundred
miles diftant.

So inconfiderate were thofe people, that wher-
ever they met me, they always expected that I
had a great aflortment of goods to relieve their
neceflities ; as if I had brought the Company’s
warehoufe with me. Some of them wanted
guns; all wanted ammunition, iron-work, and
tobacco; many were folicitous for medicine; and
others prefled me for different articles of clothing:
but when they found I had nothing to fpare, ex-
cept a few nick-nacks and gewgaws, they made
no f{cruple of pronouncing me a “poor fervant,
** noways like the Governor at the Factory, who,
“ they faid, they never faw, but he gave them
*“‘fomething ufeful.” It is fearcely poflible to
conceive any people fo void of common under-
ftanding, as to think that the fole intent of my
undertaking this fatiguing journey, was to car-
ry a large aflortment of ufeful and heavy imple-
ments, to give to all that flood in need of them ;

but

Augult.

44
1770.

A JOURNEY TO THE

but many of them would afk me for what they

.-.-— wanted with the fame freedom, and apparently

Augait.

oth.

with the fame hopes of fuccefs, as if they had
been at one of the Company’s Factories. Others, —
with an air of more generofity, offered me furs”
to trade with at the fame ftandard as at the Fadto-

ry; without confidering how unlikely it was that

T fhould increafe the enormous weight of my load

with articles which could be of no more ufe to me

in my prefent fituation than they were to them-

felves.

This unaccountable behaviour of the Indians
occafioned much ferious reflection on my part ;
as it fhowed plainly how little I had to expect if
I fhould, by any accident, be reduced to the ne-
ceflity of depending upon them for fupport ; fo
that, though I laid me down to reft, fleep was a
flrangerto me that night. The following beauti-
ful lines of Dr. Young I repeated above an hun-
dred times : |

“ Tired Ngture’s fweet reftorer, balmy Sleep;

« He, like the world, his ready vilit pays

“© Where fortune fmiles; the wretched he forfakes:

*¢ Swift oa his downy pinions flies from woe,

“ And lights on lids unfully’d witha tear.” Nicur TuoucuTs.
After pafling the night in this melancholy
manner, I got up at day-break, and, with the two
Southern Indians, fet out in quett of our defer-
ter. Many hours elapfed in fruitlefs fearch after
him, as we could not difcover a fingle track in
the direction which we were informed he had
, taken.

NORTHERN OCEAN.
taken. The day being almoft {pent without the

45
1770.

leaft appearance of fuccefs, I propofed repairing Urry

to the place where I had delivered the quadrant
to him, in hopes of feeing fome track in the mofs
that might lead to the way the Indians were gone
whom our deferter had accompanied. On our
arrival at that place, we found they had ftruck
down toward a little river which they had croff-
ed the morning before; and there, to our great
joy, we found the quadrant and the bag of pow-
der lying on the top of a high ftone, but not a
human being was to be feen. On examining the
powder, we found that the bag had been opened,
and part of it taken out; but, notwithftanding
our lofs was very confiderable, we returned with
light hearts to the place at which we had been
the night before, where we found our baggage
fafe, but all the Indians gone: they had, howe-
‘ver, been fo confiderate as to fet up marks to
direct us what courfe to fieer. By the time we
had adjufted our bundles, the day was quite fpent;
-feeing, however, a {moke, or rather a fire, in the
direction we were ordered to fteer, we bent our
way towards it; and a little after ten o’clock at
night came up with the main body of the Indi-
ans; when, after refrefhing ourfelves with a
plentiful fupper, the firft morfel we had tafted
that day, we retired to reft, which I at leaft en-
joyed with better fuccefs than the preceding night.
In the morning of the eleventh we proceeded on
to the Weft, and Weft by South; but on the
twelfth

Auguit.

1th.

46

1770.

A JOURNEY TO THE

twelfth did not move. This gave us an oppor- |

—— tunity of endeavouring to afcertain the latitude —

Augutt.

by a meredian altitude, when we found the place —
to be in 63° 10' North nearly. It proving rather _
cloudy about noon, though exceeding fine wea- —
ther, [Jet the quadrant ftand, in order to obtain |
the latitude more exactly by two altitudes; but,
to my great mortification, while I was eating my
dinner, a fudden guft of wind blew it down;
and as the ground where it ftood was very ftoney,
the bubble, the fight-vane, and vernier, were en- |
tirely broke to pieces, which rendered the inftru-
ment ufelefs. In confequence of this misfortune
I refolved to return again to the Fort, though we
were then in the latitude of 63° 10’ North, and ©
about 10° 40’ Weft longitude from Churchill
River.

CHAP.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Ch Re A PTE:

Tranfactions from the Time the Quadrant was
broken, till I arrived at the Factory.

Several firange Indians join us from the Northward.—
They plundered me of all Thad ; but did not plunder
the Southern Indians.—My guide plundered.—We
begin our return to the Factory.—Meet with other
Indians, who join our company.—Collec deer-fhins
for clothing, but could not get them dreffed.—Suffer
much hardfhip from the want of ients and warnt
clothing. —Mo/t of the Indians leave us.—-Meet with
Matonabbee.—Some account of him, and his behavi-
our to me and the Southern indians.—We remain in
bis company fome time. —His obfervations on my two

unfuccefsful attempts.—We leave him, and proceed |

to a plate to which be directed us, in order to make
fnow-/Jhoes and fledges.—Foin Matonabbee again,
and proceed towards the Factory in his company.—
Ammunition runs fhort—Myfelf and four Indians
fet off poft for the Fadctory.— Much bewildered in a
fnow ftorm ; my dog is frozen to death ; we lie ina
bufb of willows.—Proceed.on our journey.—Great
difficulty in croffing a jumble of rocks.—Arrive at
the Fort.

HE day after I had the misfortune to break

the quadrant, feveral Indians joined me
from the Northward, fome of whom plundered
me

47

48 A JOURNEY TO THE

1770. me and my companions of almoft every ufeful ar-

i~— ticle we had, among which was my gun; and

5 aa notwithftanding we were then on the point of
returning to the Factory, yet, as one of my com-
panions’ guns was a little out of order, the lofs
was likely to be feverely felt ; but it not being
in my power to recover it again, we were oblig-
ed to reft contented.

Nothing can exceed the cool deliberation of
thofe villains; a committee of them entered my
tent*. The ringleader feated himfelf on my left-
hand. They firft begged me to lend them my
fkipertogan + to fill a pipe of tobacco. After
fmoking two or three pipes, they afked me for
feveral articles which I had not, and among others
for a pack of cards; but on my anfwering that I
had not any of the articles they mentioned, one
of them put his hand on my baggage, and afked
if it was mine. Before I could anfwer in the af-
firmative, he and the reft of his companions (fix
in number) had all my treafure fpread on the
ground. One took one thing, and another ano-
ther, till at laft nothing was left but the empty
bag, which they permitted me to keep. At

SH length

* This only confifted of three walking-fticks ftuck into the ground,
and a blanket thrown over them.

+ Skipertogan is a fmall bag that contains a flint and fteel, alfo a pipe
and tobacco, as well as touchwood, &c, for making a fire. Some of thefe
bags may be called truly elegant; being richly ornamented with beads, —
porcupine-quills, morfe-hair, &c, a work always performed by the wo-
men; and they are, with much propriety, greatly efteemed by moft Ep-
ropeans for the neatnefs of their woikmanthip,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

49

length, confidering that, though I was going to 1770.

_ the Factory, I fhould want a knife to cut my vic-
tuals, an awl to mend my fhoes, and a needle to
“mend my other clothing, they readily gave me
- thefe articles, though not without making me
underftand that I ought to look uponit asa great
favour. Finding them pofleffed of fo much ge-
nerofity, I ventured to folicit them for my ra-
zors; but thinking that one would be fufficient
to fhave me during my pafflage home, they made
no fcruple to keep the other; luckily they chofe
the worft. To complete their generofity, they
permitted me to take as much foap as I thought
would be fufficient to wafh and fhave me during
the remainder of my journey to the Factory.

They were more cautious in plundering the

Southern Indians, as the relation of fuch outrages
being committed on them might occafion a war
between the two nations; but they had nothing
of that kind to dread from the Englifh. Howe-
ver, the Northern Indians had addrefs enough to
talk my home-guard Indians out of all they had :
fo that before we left them, they were as clean
fwept as myfelf, excepting their guns, fome am-
munition, an old hatchet, an ice-chiflel, and a file
to fharpen them.

It may probably be thought ftrange that my
guide, who was a Northern “Hoda fhould per-
mit his countrymen to commit fuch outrages on

- thofe under his charge; but being a man of lit-
_ tle note, he was fo far from being able to protect
E US,

Augutt.

5°
1770.

oman Sinead
Augutt.

Toth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

us, that he was obliged to fubmit to nearly the
fame outrage himfelf. On this occafion he affum-
ed a great air of generofity ; but the fact was, he -
gave freely what it was not in his power to
protect,

Early in the morning of the ninetcenth, I fet
out on my return, in company with feveral Nor- |
thern Indians, who were bound to the Factory |
with furrs and other commodities in trade. This
morning the Indian who took my gun, returned
it tome, it being of no ufe to him, having no
ammunition. The weather for fome time prov-
ed fine, and deer were very plentiful; but as the
above ravagers had materially lightened my load,
by taking every thing from me, except the qua-
drant, books, &c. this part of my journey was
the eafieft and moft pleafant of any I had experi-
enced fince my leaving the Fort. In our way we
frequently met with other Indians, fo that fcarce-
ly a day pafled without our fecing feveral {mokes
made by other ftrangers. Many of thofe we met
joined our party, having furrs and other commo-
dities for trade.

The deer’s hair being now of a proper length
for clothing, it was neceflary, according to the
cuftom, to procure as many of their fkins, while
in feafon, as would make a {uit of warm clothing
for the Winter: and as each grown perfon re-
quires the prime parts of from eight to eleven of
thofe fkins (in proportion to their fize) to make
a complete fuit, it muft naturally be fuppofed that

this

NORTHERN OCEAN.

this addition to my burthen was very confidera-
ble. My load, however cumberfome and heavy,
was yet very bearable; but, after I had carried it
feveral weeks, it proved of no fervice ; for we
had not any women properly belonging to our
company, confequently had not any perfon to
drefs them; and fo uncivil were the other Indi-
ans, that they would neither exchange them for
others of an inferior quality already drefled, nor
permit their women to drefs them for us, under
pretence that they were always employed in the
like duty for themfelves and families, which was
by no means the cafe; for many of them had
fufficient time to have done every little fervice of
that kind that we could have required of them.
The truth was, they were too well informed of
my poverty to do any acts of generofity, as they
well knew I had it not then in my power to re-
ward them for their trouble. I never faw a fet
of people that poflefled fo little humanity, or that
could view the diftrefles of their fellow-creatures
with fo little feeling and unconcern; for though
they feem to have a great affection for their wives

the diftrefs of every other perfon who is not im-
mediately related to them.

This behaviour of the. Indians made our fitua-
tion very difagreeable; for as the fall advanced,
we began to feel the cold very feverely for want
of proper clothing. We fuffered alfo greatly
from the inclemency of the weather, as we had no
| E 2 tent

and children, yet they will Jaugh at and ridicule -

Le
1770.

eptember.

#
1770.

Ree ped
September,

rsth,

yyth.

20th.

in our behalf, that he had, for fome time before,

¢

A JOURNEY TO THE |

tent to fhelterus. My guide was entirely exempt. |
ed from all thofe inconveniences, having procur- _
eda good warm fuit of clothing; and, as one of -
his wives had long before joined our party, he |
was provided with a tent, and every other necel
fary confiftent with their manner of living: but)

7)

the old fellow was fo far from interefting himfelf |

entirely withdrawn from our company; and
though he then continued to carry the greateft})
part of our little remains of ammunition, yet he}
did not contribute in the finalleft degree towards
our fupport. As deer, however, were in great
plenty, I felt little or no inconvenience from his
neglect in this refpect. al

Provifions ftill continued very plentiful; which]
was a fingular piece of good fortune, and the on.|
ly circumftance which at this time could contri}
bute to our happinefs or fafety; for notwithftand.|}
ing the early feafon of the year, the weather was |
remarkably bad and feverely cold, at leaft it ap: |
peared fo to us, probably from having no kind of |
fkin-clothing. Jn this forlorn ftate we continuet) |
our courfe to the South Eaft; and, to add to the |
cloominefs of our fituation, molt of the Northerr
Indians who had been in our company all the firh
part of the fall, were by this time gone a-head, as|
we could not keep up with them for want
inow-fhoes. }

In the evening of the twenticth, we were joif
ed from the Weftward by a famous Leader, call

¥
NORTHERN OCEAN.

éd Matonabbee, mentioned in my initruétions ;
who, with his followers, or gang, was alfo going
to Prince of Wales’s Fort, with furrs, and other
articles for trade. ‘This leader, whena youth, re-
fided feveral years at the above Fort, and was not

53
1770.

a ie
September.

only a perfect mafter of the Scuthern Indian lane,

guage, but by being frequently with the Compa-
ny’s fervants, had acquired feveral words of
Englifh, and was one of the men who brought
the lateft accounts of the Coppermine River; and
it was on his information, added to that of one
I-dot-le-ezey, (who is fince dead,) that this expe-
dition was fet on foot.

The courteous behaviour of this ftranger ftruck
me very fenfibly. As foon as he was acquainted
with our diftrefs, he got fuch fkins as we had with

us drefled for the Southern Indians, and furnifh-_

ed me with a good warm fuit of otter and other
ikins: but, as it was not in his power to provide
us with fnow-fhoes, (being then on the barren
ground,) he directed us to a little river which he
knew, and where there was a fmall range of
woods, which, though none of the beft, would,
he faid, furnith us with temporary fnow-fhoes and
fledges, that might materially affift us during the
remaining part of our journey. We fpent feve-
ral nights in company with this Leader, though
we advanced towards the Fort at the rate of ten
or twelve miles a day ; and as provifions abound-
ed, he made a grand feait for me in the Southern
Indian ftile, where there was plenty of gaod eat-

s& ing,

Oober,

54

n
tamy—— dancing, after the Southern Indian ftyle and man. -

“OCtober.

-fured me, that by the accounts received from his

-felf, it was very probable I might not experience

A JOURNEY TO THE

ing, and the whole concluded with finging and

ner. In this amufement my home-guard Indians
bore no inconfiderable part, as they were both
men of fome confequence when at home, and
well known to Matonabbee: but among the other -
Northern Indians, to whom they were not known, -
they were held in no eftimation; which indeed
is not to be wondered at, when we confider that —
the value of a man among thofe people, is always
proportioned to his abilities in hunting ; and as |
my two Indians had not exhibited any great tas
lents that way, the Northern Indians fhewed them |
as much refpect as they do in common to thofe of |
very moderate talents among themfelves.

During my converfation with this Leader, he
afked me very ferioufly, If I would attempt ano-
ther journey for the difcovery of the Copper.)
mines ? Andon my anfwering in the affirmative,
provided I could get better guides than I had hi-)
therto been furnifhed with, he faid he would reas,
dily engage in that fervice, provided the gover-}
mor at the Fort would employ him. In anfwer
to this, | afflured him his offer would be gladly
accepted; and as I had already experienced every)
-hardthip that was likely to accompany any future)
trial, I was determined to complete the difcovery,
even at the rifque of life itfelf. Matonabbee ;

!

ee

ee

own countrymen, the Southern Indians, and my-

fo

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fo much hardfhip during the whole journey, as I
k had already felt, though {carcely advanced one
third part of the journey.

He attributed all our misfortunes to the mifcon-
duct of my guides, and the very plan we purfued,
by the defire of the Governor, in not taking any
women with us on this journey, was, he faid, the
principal thing that occafioned all our wants:
** for, faid he, when all the men are heavy laden,
“‘ they can neither hunt nor travel to any confider-
“‘ able diftance ; and in cafe they meet with fuc-
* cefs in hunting, who is to carry the produce of
*‘ their labour? Women, added he, were made
‘*¢ for labour ; one of them can carry, or haul, as
*“ much as twomen can do. They alfo pitch our
** tents, make and mend our clothing, keep us
*< warm at night; and, in fact, there is no fuch
“< thing as travelling any confiderable diftance or

“© for any length of time, in this country, without

“their afliftance. ‘‘ Women, faid he again,
* though they do every thing, are maintained at
“a trifling expence; for as they always. fland
* cook, the very licking of their fingers in fcarce
“ times, is fufficient for their fubfiftence.” This,
however odd it may appear, is but too truea de-
{cription of the fituation of women in this coun-
try; itis at leaft foin appearance; for the women
always carry the provifions, and it is more than
probable they help themfelves when the men are
not prefent.

_ Early in the morning of the twenty-third, 1
ftruck

55
1770,

O&tober.

43¢0

56

1970.

A JOURNEY TO THE

firuck out of the road to the Faftward, with my

‘<4. two companions and two or three Northern In-

Oé€tober.

25th.

November
rit,

dians, while Matonabbee and his crew continued
their courfe to the Factory, promifing to walk fo
flow that we might come up with them again ;
and in two days we arrived at the place to which ~
we were directed. We went to work immedi-
ately in making fnow-fhoe frames and fledges ;
but notwithftanding our utmoft endeavours, we
could not complete them in lefs than four days.
On the firft of November we again proceeded on
our journey toward the Factory; and on the
fixth, came up with Matonabbee and his gang: |
after whith we proceeded on together feveral
days; when | found my new acquaintance, on all
occafions, the moft fociable, kind, and fenfible In- .
dian I had ever met with. He was a man well
known, and, as an Indian, of univerfal knowledge,
and generally refpected.

Deer proved pretty plentiful for fome time, but
to my great furprife, when I wanted to give Ma-
tonabbee a little ammunition for his own ufe, I
found that my guide, Conreaquefé, who had it
all under his care, had fo embezzled or otherways
expended it, that only ten balls and about three
pounds of powder remained ; fo that long before
we arrived at the Fort we were obliged to cut up
an ice-chiffel into {quare lumps, as a fubftitute for
ball. . It is, however, rather dangerous firing
lumps of iron out of fuch flight barrels as are
Cianee to this part of the world for trade.

Thele

\

———

NORTHERN OCEAN. 57

Thefe, though light and handy, and of courfe ,,...
well adapted for the ufe of both Englifh and Indi-
ans in long journies, and of fuflicient flrength for lain
leaden fhot or ball, are not {trong enough for this

kind of fhot; and firong fowling-pieces would

not only be too heavy for the laborious ways of
hunting in this country, but their bores being fo
much larger, would require more than double

the quantity of ammunition that {mall ones do;
which, to Indians at leaft, mutt be an object of

no inconfiderable importance.

i kept company with Matonabbee till the twen- — zoth.

tieth, at which time the deer began to be fo fcarce

that hardly a frefh track could be feen; and as

we were then but a few days walk from the Fort,

he advifed me to proceed on with all {peed, while

he and his companions followed at leifure. Ac
cordingly, on the twenty-firft, I fet out poft- a4
_ hafte, accompanied by one of the home-guard
(Southern) Tribe, and three Northern Indians.
That night we lay on the South fide of Egg River;
but, long before day-break the next morning, the
- weather being fo bad, with a violent gale of wind
from the North Weft, and fuch a drift of fnow,
that we could not have a bit of fire: and as no
good woods were near to afford us fhelter, we
agreed to proceed on our way: efpecially as the
wind was on our backs, and though the weather
was bad near the furface we could frequently fee
the moon, and fometimes the ftars, to direct us in
our courfe. In this fituation we continued walk-

ing

58 A JOURNEY TO THE

1770. ing the whole day, and it was not tillafter ten at
Urey night that we could find the fmalleft tuft of woods
November: to put up in; for though we well knew we muft

have pafled by feveral hummocks of fhrubby woods
that might have afforded us fome fhelter, yet the
wind blew fo hard, and the {now drifted fo ex-.
ceflively thick, that we could not fee ten yards
before us the whole day. Between feven and
eight in the evening my dog, a valuable brute,
was frozen to death; fo that his fledge, which
was a very heavy one, I was obliged to haul.
Between nine and ten at night we arrived at a
{mall creek, on which we walked about three
quarters ofa mile, when we came to a large tuft
of tall willows,:and two or three fets of old
tent-poles. Being much jaded, we determined
not to proceed any farther that night; fo we
went to work, and made the beft defence againft
the weather that the fituation of the place and
our materials would admit. Our labour confift-
ed only in digging a hole in the fnow, and fixing
a few deer {kins up to windward of us; but the
mofl difficult tafk was that of making a fire.
When this was once accomplifhed, the old tent
poles amply fupplied us with fewel. By the time
we had finifhed this bufinefs, the weather began
to moderate, and the drift greatly to abate; fo
that the moon and the Aurora Borealis fhone out
with great {plendor, and there appeared every
fymptom of the return of fine weather. After
eating a plentiful fupper of venifon, therefore,
of which we had a fuflicient ftock to laft us to

the

NORTHERN OCEAN,

the Fort, we Jaid down and got a little fleep.
The next day proving fine and clear, though ex-
ceflively fharp, we proceeded on our journey
early in the morning, and at night lay on the
South Eaft fide of Seal River. We fhould have
made a much longer day’s journey, had we not
been greatly embarrafied at fetting out, by ajum-
ble of rocks, which we could not avoid without
going greatly out of our way. Here I muft ob-
ferve, that we were more than fortunate in not
attempting to leave the little creek where we had
fixed our habitation the preceding night, as the
fpot where we lay was not more than two or
three miles diftant from this dangerous place ; in
which, had we fallen in with it in the night, we
muft unavoidably have been bewildered, if we
had not all perifhed; as notwithftanding the ad-
vantage of a clear day, and having ufed every
poflible precaution, it was with the utmoft diffi-
culty that we crofled it without broken limbs.
Indeed it would have been next to an impoflibili-
ty to have done it in the night. |
| The twenty-fourth and twenty-fifth proved fine
clear weather, though exceflively cold; and in the
afternoon of the latter, we arrived at Prince of
Wales’s Fort, after having been abfent eight
months and twenty-two days, on a fruitlefs, or
at leaft an unfuccefsful journey.

CHAP.

59

1770.

November.
23a.

24th.

25th,

A JOURNEY TO THE

ED ee 99 f PY

Tranfactions during our Stay at Prince of Wales’s:
Fort, and the former part of our third Expe-
dition, till our Arrival at Clowey, where we
built Canoes, in May 1771.

Preparations for our departure.—Refufe to take any of
the home-guard Indians with me-—By fo doing, I
offend the Governor.—Leave the Fort a third time.
— My infiructions on this expedition.—Provifions of
all kinds very fcarce.—Arrive at the woods, where
we kill fome deer.— Arrive at Ifland Lake.—Ma-
tonabbee taken ill.—Some remarks thereon.—oin
the remainder of the Indians’ families.—Leave Ifland
Lake.—Defcription thereof.—Deer plentiful.—
Meet a ftrange Indian.—Alter out courfe from Weft
North Weft to Weft by South.—Crofs Cathawhach-
aga River, Cofed Lake, Snow-Bird Lake, and Pike
Lake.—Arrive at a tent of ftrangers, who are em-
ployed in fnaring deer in a pound.—Defcription of
the pound.— Method of proceeding. —Remarks there-
onw— Proceed on our sourney.——-Meet with feveral
parties of Indians ; by one of whom I fent a letter to
the governor at Prince of Wales’s Fort.— Arrive
at Thleweyazayeth.—Employment there.—Preceed
to the North North Weft and North.—Arrive at
Clowey.—One of the Indian’s wives taken in labour.
—Remarks thereon.—Cuftoms obferved by the Nor-
thern Indians on thofe occafons.

ti ON

NORTHERN OCEAN.

&\N my arrival at the Fort, I informed the Go-

vernor, of Matonabbee’s being fo near. On
_ the twenty-eighth of November he arrived. Not-
withftanding the many difficulties and hardfhips
which I had undergone during my two unfuc-
cefsful attempts, I was fo far from being folicited
on this occafion to undertake a third excurfion,
that I willingly offered my fervice; which was
readily accepted, as my abilities and approved
courage, in perfevering under difficulties, were
thought noways inferior to the tafk.

I then determined to engage Matonabbee to be
my guide; to which he readily confented, and
with a freedom of fpeech and correétnefs of lan-
guage not commonly met with among Indians,
not only pointed out the reafons which had oc-
cafioned all our misfortunes in my two former
attempts, but defcribed the plan he intended.to
purfue ; which at the fame time that it was high-
ly fatisfactory to me, did honour to his penetra-
tion and judgment; as it proved him to bea man
of extenfive obfervation with refpect to times, fea-
fons, and places; and well qualified to explain
every thing that could contribute either to facili-
tate or retard the eafe or progrefs of travelling in
thofe dreary parts of the world.

Having engaged Matonabbee, therefore, as my
guide, I began to make preparations for our de-
parture; but Mr. Norton, the Governor, having
been very fully occupied in treding with a large
body of Indians, it was the feventh of December

before

61

1770.
wynd

November.

28th,

December.
4th,

62 A JOURNEY TO THE

1770, before I could obtain from him my difpatches.
‘y= It may not be improper to obferve, that he again
Peembct: anted to force fome of the home-guard Indians

(who were his own relations*) into our company,
merely

4

* Mr. Norton was an Indian; he was born at Prince of Wales’s Fort,
bot had been in England nine years, and confidering the {mall fam which
was expended on his education, had made fome progrefs in literature, At
his return to Hudfon’s Bay he entered into all the abominable vices of his
countrymen. He kept for his own ufe five or fix of the fineft Indian girls
which he could feleét; and notwith{tanding his own uncommon propenfity
to the fair fex, took every means in his power to prevent an= European
from having intercourfe with the women of the country; for which pure
pofe he proceeded to the moft ridiculous length. To his own fiiends and
country hé was fo partial, that he fet more value on, and fhewed more re-
{pe& to one of their favourite dogs, than he ever did to his firft officer.
Among his miferable and ignorant countrymen he pafled for a proficient
in phyfic, and always kept a box of poifon, toadminifter to thofe who re-
fufed him their wives or daughters.

With all thefe bad qualities, no man took more pains to inculcate virtue,
morality, and continence on others; always painting, in the moft odious
colours, the jealous and revengeful difpofition of the Indians, when any at-
teropt was made to violate the chaftity of their wives or daughters. Lec-
tures of this kind from a man of eftablifhed virtue might have had fome
efc&; but when they came from one who was known to live in open defis
ance of every law, human and divine, they were alway's heard with indig-
nation, and confidered as the hypoeritical cant of a felfifh debauchee, who
withed to engrofs every woman in the country to himfelf,

His apartments were not only convenient but elegant, and always
crowded with favourite Indjans: at night he locked the doors, and put the
keys under his pillow; fo that in the morning his dining-room was gene~
rally, for the want of neceflary conveniencies, worfe than a hog-ftye. As
he advanced in years his jealoufy inereafed, and he aQually poifoned two of —
his women becaufe he thought them partial to other objects more fuitable
to their ages. He was a moft notorious fmuggter; but though he put
many thoufands into the pockets of the Captains, he feldom put a hhilling
into his own.

An inflammation in his bowels eccafioned his death on the 29th of De-
cember 1473; and thongh he died in the moft excruciating pain, he retain»
ed his jealoufy to the laft; for a few minutes before he expired, happen-
ing to fee an officer laying hold of the hand of one of his women who was

flanding

NORTHERN OCEAN.

merely with a view that they might engrofs all
the credit of taking care of me during the journey:
but I had found them of fo little ufe in my two
former attempts, that I abfolutely refufed them ;
and by fo doing, offended Mr. Norton to fuch a
degree, that neither time nor abfence could ever
afterwards eradicate his diflike of me; fothat at
my return he ufed every means in his power to
treat me ill, and to render my life unhappy.
However, to deal with candour on this occafion,
it muft be acknowledged to his honour, that what-
ever our private animofities might have been, he
did not fuffer them to interfere with public bufi-
nefs ; and I was fitted out with ammunition, and
every other article which Matonabbee thought
could be wanted. I was alfo furnifhed, as before,
with a fmall affortment of light trading goods, as
prefents to the far diftant Indians.

At laft I fucceeded in obtaining my inftrutions,
which were as follows :

** Orvers and Instructions for Mr. SAMUEL
“Hearne, going on his third Expedition to the

“© North of Churchill River, in queft of a North

« Weft Paffage, Copper Mines, or any other thing

© “ that may be ferviceable to the Britifb Nation in
“ general,

ftanding by the fire, he bellowed out, in as loud a voice as his fituation
would admit, “ God “d—n you for a b——h, if I live I’ll knock out your
brains.” A few minutes after making this elegant apoflrophe, he expired
in the greate(t agonies that can poffibly be conceived.

This I declare to be the real charaéter and manner of life of the late Mr.
Mofes Norton,

63

1770.
cen arsed

December.

A JOURNEY TO THE

“ general, or the Hullfon’s Bay Company in pare |
“* ticular ; inthe year 1770. |

ee Mr. Sav HEARNE,

Pd Aes !
«© As you have offered your fervice a third time |
“to go in fearch of the Copper Mine River, &c.
“«* and as Matonabbee, a leading Indian, who has |
“* been at thofe parts, is willing to be your guide, |
“‘ we have accordingly engaged him for that fer-
** vice; but having no other inftrument on the —
“* fame conftruction with the quadrant you had —
“* the misfortune to break, we have furnifhed you |
“with an Elton’s quadrant, being the moft pro- |
“* per inftrument we can now procure for ie |
*¢ ing obfervations on the land.

“© The above Leader, Matonabbee, and a few of |
¢* his beft men, which he has felected for that pur-
“ pofe, are to provide for you, aflift you in all
“© things, and conduct you to the Copper Mine
“¢ River; where you mutt be careful to obferve ff
“the latitude and longitude, alfo the courfe of f
“the river, the depth of the water, the fituation [)
“of the Copper Mines, &c. but your firft in-f
« flrudtions, of November fixth, one thoufand fe- |
“ven hundred and fixty-nine, being fufficiently |
“ full, we refer. you to every part thereof for
“the better regulation of your conduct durings
“ this journey. :

“Ag .

t

NORTHERN OCEAN. 65

** As you and your Indian companions are fit- 1770.
<« ted out with every thing that we think is necef- Sara
“‘fary, (or at leaft as many ufeful articles as the
“nature of travelling in thofe parts will admit
** of,) you are hereby defired to proceed on your
** journey as foon as poffible; and your prefent

guide has promifed to take great care of you,
<< and conduct you out and home with all conve-
** nient {peed.

© T conclude with my beft withes for your
“health and happinels, together with a fuc-

** cefsful journey and a quick return in fafety.
<¢ Amen.

** (Signed) Mosrs Norton, Governor.

«¢ Dated at Prince of Wales’s Fort,
«¢ sth December, 1770.”

On the feventh of December I fet out on my th.
third journey; and the weather, confidering
the feafon of the year, was for fome days pretty
mild. One of Matonabbee’s wives being ill, oc-
cafioned us to walk fo flow, that it was the thir-
teenth before we arrived at Seal River; at which
time two men and their wives left us, whofe loads,
whenadded to thofe of the remainder of my crew,
made a very material difference, efpecially as
Matonabbee’s wife was fo ill as to be obliged to be
| hauled on a fledge.
| Finding deer and all other game very {carce,
and not knowing how long it might be before

F Sa wWic

December.

16th.

A JOURNEY TO THE
we could reach any place where they were in
greater plenty, the Indians walked as far each
day as their loads and other circumftances would
conveniently permit. On the fixteenth, we ar-
rived at Ege River, where Matonabbee and the
reft of my crew had laid up fome provifions and
other neceffaries, when on their journey to the
Fort. On going to the place where they thought
the provifions had been carefully fecured from all
kinds of wild beafts, they had the mortification

to find that fome of their countrymen, with —

whom the Governor had firft traded and difpatch-
ed from the Fort, had robbed the ftore of every

article, as well as of fome of their moft ufeful |
implements. This lofs was more feverely felt, —

as there was a total want of every kind of game;

and the Indians, not expecting to meet with fo —
great a difappointment, had not ufed that ceco-
nomy in the expenditure of the oatmeal and

other provifions which they had received at the |
Vort, as they probably would have done, had —

they not relied firmly on finding a fupply at this
place. This difappointment and lofs was borne
by the Indians with the greateft fortitude; andI
did not hear one of them breathe the leaft hint of
revenge in cafe they fhould ever difcover the
offenders: the only effect it had on them was,)
that of making them put the beft foot foremoft.
This was thought fo neceflary, that for fome time
we walked every day from morning till night.)

| The

}

NORTHERN OCEAN. 67

The days, however, being fhort, our fledges 1770.
heavy, and fome of the road very bad, our pro-
erefs feldom exceeded fixteen or eighteen miles
a day, and fome days we did not travel fo
much.

On the eighteenth, as we were continuing our
courfe to the North Weft, up a fmall creek that
empties itfelf into Ege River, we faw the tracks
of many deer which had crofied that part a few
days before; at that time there was not a frefh
track to be feen: fome of the Indians, however,
who had lately paffed that way, had killed more |
than they had occafion for, fo that feveral joints
of good meat were found in their old tent-
places; which, though only fufficient for one
good meal, were very acceptable, as we had been
in exceeding ftraitened circumftances for many
days.

On the nineteenth, we purfued our courfe in ioth,
the North Weft quarter; and, after leaving the
above-mentioned creek, traverfed nothing but en-
tire barren ground, with empty bellies, till the
twenty-feventh ; for though we arrived at fome 27th
woods on the twenty-fixth, and faw a few deer,
four of which the Indians killed, they were at
fo great a diftance from the place on which we
lay, that it was the twenty-feventh before the
meat was brought to the tents.. Here the Indians
propofed to continue one day, under pretence of
repairing their fledges and {now fhoes; but from

Ys the

December,

18th,

6§

A JOURNEY TO THE

1770. the little attention they paid to thofe repairs, f

December.

28th.

was led to think that the want of food was the
chief thing that detained them, as they never
ceafed eating the whole day. Indeed for many
days before we had been in great want, and for
the laft three days had not tafted a morfel of any —
thing, except a pipe of tobacco and a drink of
fnow water ; and as we walked daily from mor-
ning till night, and were all heavy laden, our
ftrength began to fail. I mutt confefs that I ne-
ver {pent fo dull a Chriftmas; and when I recol-
lected the merry feafon which was then pafiing,
and refleted on the immenfe quantities, and
great variety of- delicacies which were then ex-
pending in every part of Chriftendom, and that
with a profufion bordering on wafte, I could not
refrain from withing myfelf again in Europe, if
it had been only to have had an opportunity of
alleviating the extreme hunger which I fuffered
with the refufe of the table of any one of my ac-
guaintance. My Indians, however, {ftill kept in
good {pirits; and as we were then acrofs all the
barren ground, and faw a few frefh ‘tracks of
deer, they began to think that the worft of the
road was over for that winter, and flattered me
with the expectation of foon meeting with deer
and other game in greater plenty than we had

done fince our departure from the Fort.
Early in the morning of the twenty-eighth, we
again fet out, and directed our courle to the
Weltware,

" NORTHERN OCEAN.

Weftward, through thick fhrubby woods, confift-

ing chiefly of ill-{haped ftunted pines, with finall
dwarf junipers, intermixed here and there, par-
ticularly round the margins of ponds and fwamps,
with dwarf willow bufhes; and among the
rocks and fides of the hills were alfo fome {mall
poplars.

On the thirtieth, we arrived at the Eaft fide of

Ifland Lake, where the Indians killed two large
buck deer; but the rutting feafon was {fo lately
over, that their flefh was only eatable by thofe
who could not procure better food. In the even-
ing, Matonabbee was taken very ill; and from
the nature of his complaint, I judged his illnefs
to have proceeded from the enormous quantity
of meat that he had eat on the twenty-feventh,
as he had been indifpofed ever fince that time.
Nothing is more common with thofe Indians,
after they have eat as much at a fitting as would
ferve fix moderate men, than to find themfelves
out of order ; but not one of them can bear to hear
that it is the effect of eating too much: in de-
fence of which they fay, that the meaneft of the
animal creation knows when hunger it fatisfied,
and will leave off accordingly. ‘This, however,
isa falfe aflertion, advanced knowingly in fup-
port of an abfurd argument ; for it is well known
by them, as well as all the Southern Indians, that
the black bear, who, for fize and the delicacy of
its flefh, may juftly be called a refpectable ani-
mal, is fo far from knowing when its hunger is

fatisfied,

69
Healy be
Leryn

December,

goth.

40
70.

a)
Dectmber.

A JOURNEY TO THE

fatisfied, that, in the Summer, when the berries
are ripe, it will gorge to fuch a degree, that it fre-
quently, and even daily, vomits up great quan-
tities of new-{wallowed fruit, before it has un-
dergone any change in the ftomach, and im-
mediately renews its repaft with as much eager-
nefs as before.

Notwithftanding the Northern Indians are at
times fo voracious, yet they bear hunger with a
degree of fortitude which, as Mr. Ellis juitly ob-
ferves of the Southern Indians, “is much eafier
“* to admire, than toimitate.”” Ihave more than
once feen the Northern Indians, at the end of
three or four days fafting, as merry and jocofe on
the fubject, as if they had voluntarily impofed it
on themfelves; and would afk each other in the
plaineft terms, and in the merrieft mood, If they
had any inclination for an intrigue with a ftrange
woman? I muft acknowledge that examples of
this kind were of infinite fervice to me, as they
tended to keep up my fpirits on thofe occafions
with a degree of fortitude that would have been
impoflible for me to have done had the Indians
behaved in a contrary manner, and exprefled
any apprehenfion of ftarving.

Early in the morning of the thirty-firft, we con-
tinued our journey, and walked about fourteen
miles to the Weftward on Ifland Lake, where we
fixed our refidence; but Matonabbee was at this
time fo ill as to be obliged to be hauled ona
fledge the whole day. ‘The next morning, how-

. ever,

NORTHERN OCEAN. at

ever, he fo far recovered as to be capable of walk- 1 ~~,
ing; when we proceeded on to the Weft and ——~
Weft by North, about fixteen miles farther on the 7
fame Lake, till we arrived at two tents, which
contained the remainder of the wives and families
of my guides, who had been waiting there for
the return of their hufbands from the Fort. Here
we found only two men, though there were up-
ward of twenty women and children; and as
thofe two men had no gun or ammunition, they
had no other method of fupporting themfelves
and the women, but by catching fifh, and {naring
a few rabbits: the latter were fcarce, but the for-
mer were eafily caught in confiderable numbers
either with nets or hooks. ‘The fpecies of fifh
generally caught in the nets are tittemeg, pike,
and barble; and the only forts caught with
hooks are trout, pike, burbut, anda {mall fifh,
erroneouilly called by the Englifh tench: the Sou-
thern Indians called it the toothed tittemeg, and
the Northern Indians call it /aint eah. They are
delicate eating; being nearly as firm as a perch,
and generally very fat. They feldom exceed a
foot in length, and in fhape much refemble a
furnard, except that of having a very long broad
fin on the back, like a perch, but this fin is not
armed with fimilar fpikes. The fcales are large,
and of a footy brown. They are generally moft
efteemed when broiled or roafted with the fcales
on, of courfe the {kin is not eaten.
As the Captain [Matonabbee] and one man
were

January

1
3d.

A JOURNEY TO THE

were indifpofed, we did not move on the fecond
of January; but early in the morning of the
third fet out, and walked about feven miles to
the North Weftward, five of which were on the
above mentioned Lake; when the Indians hav-

ing killed two deer, we put up for the night.

Ifland Lake (near the center) is in latitude 60°
45’ North, and 102°, 25’ Weft longitude, from
London; and is, at the part we croffed, about
thirty-five miles wide: but from the North Eaft
to the South Weft it is much larger, and entire-
ly full of iflands, fo near to each other as to
make the whole Lake refemble a jumble of fer-
pentine rivers and creeks ; and it is celebrated by
by the natives as abounding with great plenty of
fine fifh during the beginning of the Winter.
At different, parts of this Lake moft part of the
wives and families of thofe Northern Indians who
vifit Prince of Wales’s Fort in October and No-
vember generally refide, and wait for their re-
turn; as there is little fear of their being in want
of provifions, even without the affiftance of a
gun and ammunition, which is a point of real
confequence tothem. The Lake is plentifully
fupplied with water from feveral {mall rivulets
and creeks which run into it at the South Weift
end; and it empties itfelf by means of other
{mall rivers which run to the North Eaft, the
principal of which is Nemace-a-feepee-a-fifh, or
Little Fish River. Many of the iflands, as well
as the main land round this Lake, abound with

dwarf

NORTHERN OCEAN.

dwarf woods, chiefly pines; but in fome parts
intermixed with larch and {mall birch trees.
‘Phe land, like all ‘the reft which lies to the North
of Be iver. is hilly, and full of rocks; and
though none of the hills are high, yet as few of
the woods grow on their fummits, they in general
fhew their fnowy heads far above the woods
which grow in the vallies, or thofe which are
fcattered about their fides.
_ After leaving Iland Lake, we continued our
old courfe between the Weft and North Weft,
and travelled at the eafy rate of eight or nine miles
a day. Provifions of all kinds were fcarce till
the fixteenth, when the Indians killed twelve
deer. This induced us to put up, though early
in the day ; and finding great. plenty of deer in
the neighbourhood of our little encampment, it
was agreed by all parties to remain a few days,
in order to dry and pound fome neat to make it
lighter for carriage.

Having, by the twenty-fecond, provided a fuf-
ficient ftock of provifion, properly prepared, to
carry with us, and repaired our fledges and fnow-
thoes, we again purfued our courfe in the North
Weft quarter; and in the afternoon {poke with a
ftranger, an Indian, who had one of Matonabbee’s
wives under his care. He did not remain in our
SOMRARR above an hour, as he only {moked part
of a few pipes with his friends, and returned
_ to his tent, which could not be far diftant from
the place where we lay that night, as the woman

and

ri

1771.
en med
January.

7%

1771.

A JOURNEY TO THE
and her two children joined us next morning,

.—— before we had taken down our tent and madé

January,

ready for moving. Thofe people were the firft
ftrangers whom .we had met fince we left the _
Fort, though we had travelled feveral hundred
miles; which is a proof that this part of the coun-
try is but thinly inhabited. It is a truth well
known to the natives, and doubtlefs founded on
experience, that there are many very extenfivé
tracts of land in thofe parts, which are incapable
of affording fupport to any number of the human
tace even during the fhort time they are pafling
through them, in the capacity of emigrants, from
one place to the other; much lefs are they capa-
ble of affording a conftant fupport to thofe who
might wifh to make them their fixed refidencé
at any feafon of the year. It is true, that few
rivers or lakes in thofe parts are entirely deftituteé
of fifh; but the uncertainty of meeting with a
fufficient fupply for any confiderable time toge-
ther, makes the natives very cautious how they
put their whole dependance on that article, as it
has too frequently been the means of many hun-
dreds, being ftarved to death.

By the twenty-third, deet were fo plentiful
that the Indians feémed to think that, unlefs thé
feafon, contrary to expectation and general ex-
perience, fhould prove unfavourable, there would
be no fear of our being in want Of provifions
during the reft of the Winter, as deer had al-

ways

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ways been known to be in great plenty in the di-
re@tion which they intended to walk.

On the third of February, we continued our
e to the Weft by North and Weft North

refi, and were fo near the edge of the woods,
that the barren ground was in fight to the North-
ward. As the woods trendéed away tothe Welt,
we were obliged to alter our courfe to Weft by
South, for the fake of keeping among them, as
well as the deer. In the courfe of this day’s
walk we faw feveral itrangers, fome of whom
remained in our company, while others went on
their refpective ways.

On the fixth, we croffed the main branch of
Cathawhachaga River; which, at that part, is
about three quartets of a mile broad; and after
walking three miles farther, came to the fide of
Coffed Whoie, or Partridge, Lake; but the day
being far {pent, and the weather nena cold,
we put up for the night.

Early in the morning of the feventh, the wea-
ther being ferene and cleat, we fet out, and
crofled the above mentioned Lake; which at
that part is about fourteen miles wide; but from
the South South Weft to North North Eaft is
much larger. It is impoffible to defcribe the in-
tenfenefs of the cold which we experienced this
day; and the difpatch we made in crofling
the lake is almoft incredible, as it was performed
by the greateft part of my crew in lefs than two
hours; though fome of the women, who were

heavy

75
1771.

February.
3d.

6th.

nth,

76

1771.

A JOURNEY TO THE

heavy laden, took a much longer time. Several |

.—.— of the Indians were much frozen, but none OF |

February.

them more difagreeably fo than one of Matonab-
bee’s wives, whofe thighs and buttocks were in
a manner incrufted with froft; and when thaws
ed, feveral blifters arofe, nearly as large as theeps’
bladders. The pain the poor woman fuffered on
this occafion was greatly aggravated by the laugh-
ter and jeering of her companions, who faid
that fhe was rightly ferved for belting her clothes
fo high. I muf acknowledge that I was not in
the number of thofe who pitied her, as I thought —
fhe took too much pains to fhew a clean heel and |
good leg; her garters being always in fight, |
which, though by no means confidered here as
bordering on indecency, is by far too airy ta
withftand the rigorous cold of a fevere winter in-
a high Northern latitude. I doubt not that the
laughter of her companions was excited by fimilar
ideas.

When we got on the Weft fide of Partridge
Lake we continued our courfe for many days to-
ward the Weit by South and Weft South Weft;
when deer were fo plentiful, and the india
killed fuch vaft numbers, that notwithftanding
we frequently remained three, four, or five days |
in a place, to eat up the fpoils of our hunting,
yet at our departure we frequently left great
quantities of good meat behind us, which we
eould neither eat nor carry with us.. This con-
duct is the more excufable among people whofe

wandering

NORTHERN OCEAN.

wandering manner of life and contracted ideas

77

1771.

make every thing appear to them as the effect of Wr

‘mere chance. The great uncertainty of their
ever viliting this or that part a fecond time, in-
duces them to think there is nothing either wrong
or improvident in living on the beft the country
will afford, as they are pafling through it from
place to place; and they feem willing that thofe
who come after them fhould take their chance, as
they have done.

On the twenty-firft, we crofled The-whole-ky-
ed Whoie, or Snowbird Lake, which at that part
was about twelve or thirteen miles wide, though
from North to South it is much larger. As deer

February,

21k,

were as plentiful as before, we expended much |

time in killing and eating them, ‘This Mato-
nabbee aflured me was the beft way we could em-
ploy ourfelves, as the feafon would by no means
permit us to proceed in a direct line for the Cop-
per-mine River; but when the Spring advanced,
and the deer began to draw out to the barren
ground, he would then, he faid, proceed in
fuch a manner as to leave no room to doubt
of our arrival at the Copper-mine River in pro-
per time.

On the fecond of March, we lay by the fide of
Whooldyah’d Whoie or Pike Lake, and not far
from Doo-baunt Whoie River. On the next
day we again began to crofs the above mentioned
Lake, but after walking feven miles on it to the

|" Weft South Weft, we arrived at a large tent of
a) Northern

March
2d

3d,

78
1771.

{ese ata)
March,

A JOURNEY TO THRE:

Northern Indians, who had been living there from —
the beginning of the Winter, and had found a
plentiful fubfiftence by catching deer in a pound.
This kind of employment is performed in the fol-
lowing manner :

When the Indians defign to impound deer,
they look out for one of the paths in which a
number of them have trod, and which is obferv-
ed to be ftill frequented by them. When thefe
paths crofs a lake, a wide river, ora barren plain, ©
they are found to be much the beft for the pur-
pofe; and if the path run through a clutter of
woods, capable of affording materials for building —
the pound, it adds confiderably to the commodi.-
oufnefs of the fituation. The pound is built by
making a ftrong fence with brufhy trees, without
obferving any degree of regularity, and the work
is continued to any'extent, according to the plea-_
fure of the builders. I have feen fome that were |
not lefs than a mile round, and am informed that _
there are others ftill more extenfive. The door, OF |
entrance of the pound, is not larger than a com.
mon gate, and the infide is fo crowded with fall,
counter-hedges as very much to refemble a maze;_
in every opening of which they fet afnare, made }
with thongs of parchment deer-fkins well twifted |}
together, which are amazingly flrong. Oneend }
of the fnare is ufually made faft to a growing pole;
but if noone of a fufficient fize can be found near
the place where the fnare is fet, a loofe pole is fub-
ftituted in its room, which is always of fuch fize

and

NORTHERN OCEAN,
and Jength that a deer cannot drag it far before

79
77%,

it gets entangled among the other woods, which ~~~)

are all left ftanding except what is found necefla.
ry for making the fence, hedges, &c.

The pound being thus prepared, a row of {mall
brufhwood is ftuck up in the fnow on each fide
the door or entrance; and thefe hedge-rows are
continued along the open part of the lake, river,
or plain, where neither ftick nor ftump befides is
to be feen, which makes them the more diftin@ly
obferved. ‘Thefe poles, or brufh-wood, are gene-
rally placed at the diftance of fifteen or twenty
yards from each other, and ranged in fuch a man-
ner as to form two fides of a long acute angle,
growing gradually wider in proportion to the di-
fiance they extend from the entrance of the
pound, which fometimes is not lefs than two or
three miles; while the deer’s path is exactly along
the middle, between the two rows of brufh-wood.

Indians employed on this fervice always pitch
their tent on or near to an eminence that affords
acommanding profpect of the path leading to
the pound ; and when they fee any deer going
that way, men, women, and children walk along
the lake or river-fide under cover of the woods,
till they get behind them, then ftep forth to open
view, and proceed towards the pound in the form
of a crefeent. The poor timorous deer finding
themfelves purfued, and at the fame time taking
the two rows of brufhy poles to be two ranks of
people ftationed to prevent their pafling on either

fide,

March.

So A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. fide; run ftraight forward in the path till they get
\“—~777 into the pound. The Indians then clofe in, and |
block up the entrance with fome brufhy trees,
that have been cut down and lie at hand for that
purpofe. The deer being thus enclofed, the wo-
men and children walk round the pound, to pre- ~ |
vent them from breaking or jumping over the
fence, while the men are employed {pearing fuch
a3 are entangled in the {nares, and fhooting with
bows and arrows thofe which remain loofe in the
pound.
This method of hunting, if it deferves the
name, is fometimes fo fuccefsful, that many fa-
milies fubfit by it without having occafion to
move their tents above once or twice during the
courfe of a whole winter ; and when the Spring
advances, both the deer and Indians draw out to
the Eaftward, on the ground which is entirely
barren, or at leaft what is fo called in thofe parts,
as it neither produces trees or fhrubs of any kind,
fo that mofs and fome little grafs is all the her-
bage which is to be found on it. Such an eafy

way of procuring a comfortable maintenance. in
the Winter months, (which is by far the worft
time of the year,) is wonderfully well adapted to
the fupport of the aged and infirm, but is tooapt |
to occafion an habitual indolence in the young and |
ative, who frequently {pend a whole Winter in
this indolent manner: and as thofe parts of the
country are almoft deftitute of every animal of
the furr kind, it cannot be fuppofed that thofe
who

NORTHERN OCEAN.

81

who indulge themfelves in this indolent ce 1771.
of procuring food can be mafters of any thing ——~

for trade; whereas thofe who do not get their live-
lihood at fo eafy a rate, generally procure furrs
enough during the Winter to purchafe a fuffici-
ent fupply of ammunition, and other European
goods, to laft them another year. This is nearly
the language of the more induftrious among
them, who, of courfe, are of moft importance and
value to the Hudfon’s Bay Company, as it is from
them the furrs are procured which compofe the
greateft part of Churchill trade. But in my opi-
~ nion, there cannot exift a ftronger. proof that
mankind was not created to enjoy happinefs in
this world, than the condu& of the miferable be-
ings who inhabit this wretched part of it; as none
but thé aged and infirm, the women and children,
a few of the more indolent and unambitious part
of them, will f{ubmit to remain in the parts where
food and clothing are procured in this eafy man-
ner, becaufe no animals are produced there whofe
furrs are valuable. And what do the more in-
duftrious gain by giving themfelves all this addi-
tional trouble? The real wants of thefe people
are few, and eafily fupplied; a hatchet, an ice-
chiffel, a file, and a knife, are all that is required
to enable them, with a little induftry, to procure
a comfortable livelihood ; and thofe who endea-
your to poffefs more, are always the moft unhap-
py, and may, in faét, be faid to be only flaves and
| garriers to the reft, whofe ambition never leads
G them

March,

Sa A JOURNEY TO THE

741. them to any thing beyond the means of procuring
i~— food and clothing, It is true, the carriers pride
Mar themfelves much on the refpect which is fhewn

to them at the Fa@tory ; to obtain which they fre-
quently run ereat rifques of being ftarved to death |
in their way thither and back; and all that they
can poflibly get there for the furrs they procure
after a year’s toil, feldom amounts to more than is
fufficient to yield a bare fubfiltence, and a few
furrs for the enfuing year’s market; while thofe
whom they call indolent and mean-fpirited live ge-
nerally ina ftate of plenty, without trouble or
rifque; and confequently mufl be the moft happy,
and, in truth, the moft independent alfo. It mul
be allowed that they are by far the greateft phi-
lofophers, as they never give themfelves the trou-
ble to acquire what they can do well enough with-
out. The deer they kill, furnifhes them with
food, and a variety of warm and comfortable
clothing, either with or without the hair, accord-. |
ing as the feafons require; and it muft be very
sard indeed, if they cannot get furrs enoughin the
courte of two or three years, to purchafe a hatch.
et, and {uch other edge-tools as are neceflary for —
their purpofe. Indeed thofe who take no con-—
cern at all about procuring furrs, have generally. _
an opportunity of providing themfelves with all _
their real wants from their more induftrious —
countrymen, in exchange for provifions, and rea
dy-drefled fkins for clothing. i.
It is undoubtedly the hat of every one of the
Com-—

NORTHERN OCEAN. 83

‘Company’s fervants to encourage a {pirit of indu- 771
_ftry among the natives, and to ufe every means in Ina Vad
their power to induce them to procure furrs and
_ other commodities for trade, by afluring them of

a ready purchafe and good payment for every

thing they bring to the factory: and I can truly

fay, that this hasever been the grand ebje& of my
attention. But I muft at the fame time confefs,
that fuch conduét is by no means for the real be-
nefit of the poor Indians; it being well known
that thofe who have the leaft intercourfe with the

Factories, are by far the happieft. As their whole

aim is to procure a comfortable fubfiftence, they

take the moft prudent methods to accomplith it;
and by always following the lead of the deer, are
feldom expofed tothe griping hand of famine,

{fo frequently felt by thofe who are called the an-

nual traders. It istrue, that there are few of the

Indians, whofe manner of life I have juft defcrib-

ed, but have once in their lives at leaft vifited

Prince of Wales’s Fort ; and the hardfhips and

dangers which moft of them experienced on thofe

occafions, have left fuch a lafting impreflion on
their minds, that nothing can induce them to re-

‘peat their vifits: nor is it, in faa, the intereft of

the company that people of this eafy turn, and

who require only as much iron-work at atime as
can be purchafed with three or four beaver ikins,
and that only once in two or three years, fhould
be invited to the Factories; becaufe what they beg
and fteal while there, is worth, in the way of

G 2 trade

84

1771.
ee)
March.

A JOURNEY TO THE

trade, three times the quantity of furrs which
they bring. For this reafon, it is much more for
the intereft of the Company that the annual tra-
ders fhould buy up all thofe fmall quantities of
furrs, and bring them in their own name, than
that a parcel of beggars fhouid be encouraged to
come to the Factory with fearcely as many furrs
as will pay for the victuals they eat while they are _
on the plantation.

I have often heard it obferved, that the Indians
who attend the deer-pounds might, in the courfe
of a winter, collect a vaft number of pelts, which
would well deferve the attention of thofe who are
called carriers or traders; but it is a truth,
though unknown to thofe fpeculators, that the
deer fkins at that feafon are not only as thin as a

_ bladder, but are alfo full of warbles, which ren-

der them of littleor no value. Indeed, were they
a more marketable commodity than they really
are, the remote fituation of thofe pounds from the
Company’s Factories, muft for ever be an unfur-
mountable barrier to the Indians bringing any of
thofe fkins to trade. The fame obfervation may
be made of all the other Northern Indians, whofe
chief fupport, the whole year-round, is venifon ;
but the want of heavy draught in Winter, and
water-carriage in fummer, will not permit them
to bring many deer fkins to market, not even
thofe that are in feafon, and for which there has
always been great encouragement given. |
We ftopped only one night in company with the
| Indians |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

_ Indians whom we met on Pike Lake, and in the
_ morning of the fourth, proceeded to crofs the re-
_ mainder of that Lake; but, though the weather
was fine, and though the Lake was not more
than twenty-feven miles broad at the place where
we croffed it, yet the Indians loft fo much time at
play, that it was the feventh before we arrived on
the Weft fide of it. During the whole time we
were crofling it, each night we found either points
of land, or iflands, to put up in. On the eighth,
we lay a little to the Eaft North Eaft of Black
Bear Hill, where the Indians killed twodeer; which
were the firft we had feen for ten days; but hav-
ing plenty of dried meat and fat with us, we were
by no means in want during any part of that
time. On the ninth, we proceeded on our courfe
to the Weftward, and foon met with as great
plenty of deer as we had feen during any part of
ourjourney ; which, no doubt, made things go
on {mooth and eafy: and as the Spring advanced,
the rigour of the winter naturally abated, fo that
at times we had fine pleafant weather over-head,
though it was never fo warm as to occafion any
‘thaw, unlefs in fuch places as lay expofed to the
mid-day fun, and were fheltered from all the cold
winds.

On the nineteenth, as we were continuing our
courfe to the Weft and Weft by South, we faw
the tracks of feveral ftrangers; and on following
the main path, we arrived that night at five tents
of Northern Indians, who had refided there great

part

85
1771.

March,
4th.

oth,

8th,

gth,

Igths

86

A JOURNEY TO THE

1771, part of the Winter, {naring deer in the fame man-
‘v— ner asthofe before mentioned. Indeed, it fhould

March

scth.

23d.

26th.

feem that this, as well as fome other places, had
been frequented more than once on this occafion; —
for the wood that had been cut down for fewel,
and other ufes, was almoft incredible. Before
morning, the weather became fo bad, and the
ftorm continued to rage with fuch violence, that
we did not move for feveral days; and as fome
of the Indians we met with at this place were go-
ing to Prince of Wales’s Fort in the Summer, f
embraced the opportunity of fending by them a~
Letter to the Chief at that Fort, agreeably to the
tenor of my inftructions. By fumming up my
courfes and diftances from my laft obfervation,
for the weather at that time would not permit
me to obferve, | judged myfelf to be in latitude
° 20' North, and about 19° 60’ of longitude to
the Weft of Churchill River. This, and fome
accounts of the ufage I received from the natives,
with my opinion of the future fuccefs of the
journey, formed the contents of my Letter.

On the twenty-third, the weather became fine
and moderate, fo we once more purfued our way,
and the next day, as well as on the twenty-fixth,
{aw {everal more tents of Northern Indians, who
were employed in the fame manner as thofe we
had formerly met; but fome of them having had
bad fuccefs, and being relations or acquaintances
of part of my crew, joined our company, and
procecded with us to the Weftward. Though

the

NORTHERN OCEAN.

the deer did not then keep regular paths, fo as to
enable the Indians to catch them in pounds, yet
they were to be met with in great abundance in
{eattered herds; fo that my companions killed as
many as they pleafed with their guns.

We fill continued our courfe to the Weft and
Weft by South, and on the eighth of April, ar-

rived at a {mall Lake, called Thelewey-aza-yeth 5

but with what propriety it is fo called 1 cannot
difcover, for the meaning of Thelewey-aza-yeth is
Little Fifth Hill: probably fo called from a high
hill which ftands on a long point near the Welt
end of the lake. Onan ifland in this Lake we
pitched our tents, and the Indians finding deer
very numerous, determined to ftay here fome
time, in order to dry and pound meat to take
with us; for they well knew, by the feafon of the
year, that the deer were then drawing out to the
barren ground, and as the Indians propofed to
walk due North on our leaving the Lake, it was
uncertain when we fhould again meet with any
more. As feveral Indians had during the Win-
ter joined our party, our number had now in-
creafed to feven tents, which in the whole con-
tained not lefs than feventy perfons.

Agreeably to the Indians’ propofals we remain-
edat Thelewey-aza-yeth ten days; during which
time my companions were bufily employed (at
their intervals from hunting) in preparing {mall
ftaves of birch-wood, about one anda quarter
inch fquare, and feven or eight feet long. ‘Thefe

? ferve

87
1771.

ney perme?
March.

_ April.
sth,

38

1771.

~ barren ground; and as the fall advances, are

a)
April. z \
converted into fnow-fhoe frames for Winter ufe. __

z8th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

ferve.as tent-poles all the fummer, while on the

Birchrind, together with timbers and other wood-
work for building canoes, were alfo another ob- |

ject of the Indian’s attention while at this place;

but as the canoes were not to be fet up till our
arrival at Clowey, (which was many miles diftant,)
all the wood-work was reduced to its proper fize,
for the fake of making it light for carriage.

» As to myfelf, I had little to do, except to make
a few obfervations for determining the latitude,
bringing up my journal, and filling up my chart
to the prefent time. I found the latitude of this
place 61° 30' North, and its longitude, by my ac-
count, 19° Welt of Prince of Wales’s Fort.

Having a good ftock of dried provifions, and
moft of the neceflary work for canoes all ready,
on the eighteenth we moved about nine or ten
miles to the North North Welt, and then came
to a tent of Northern Indians who were tenting
on the North fide of Thelewey-aza River. From |
thefe Indians Matonabbee purchafed another wife;
fo that he had now no lefs than feven, moft of
whom would for fize have made good grena-
diers. He prided himfelf much in the height
and ftrength of his wives, and would frequently
fay, few women would carry or haul heavier loads;
and though they had, in general, a very mafcu-
line appearance, yet he preferred them to thofe of
a more delicate form and moderate ftature.
‘ In

NORTHERN OCEAN.

the fofter endearments of a conjugal life are only
confidered as a fecondary object, there feems to
be great propriety in fuch a choice; but if all the
men were of this way of thinking, what would
become of the greater part of the women, who in
general are but of low ftature, and many of them
of a moft delicate make, though not of the ex-
acteft proportion, or moft beautiful mould? Take
them in a body, the women are as deftitute of
| real beauty as any nation I ever faw, though there
are fome few of them, when young, who are to-
lerable ; but the care of a family, added to their
conftant hard labour, foon make the moft beau-
tiful among them look old and wrinkled, even
before they are thirty; and feveral of the more

love and gallantry. This, however, does not ren-
der them lefs dear and valuable to their owners,
| which is a lucky circumftance for thofe women,
and a certain proof that there is no fuch thing
as any rule or ftandard for beauty. Afk a Nor-
thern Indian, what is beauty? he will anfwer, a
broad flat face, {mall eyes, high cheek-bones, three
or four broad black lines a-crofs each cheek, a low
forehead, a large broad chin, a clumfy hook-nofe,
ja tawny. hide, and brea{ts hanging down to the
belt. Thofe beauties are greatly heightened, or
at leaft rendered more valuable, when the poffef-
for is Teh of dreffing all kinds of fkins, con-
verting

ordinary ones at that age are perfect antidotes to -

Apiik

89

Inidcountry like this, where a partner in exceflive 1771.
hard labour is the chief motive for the union, and “~~

g9

1771 verting them into the different parts of their

Rn eed
Ap

rill,

A JOURNEY TO THE

clothing, and able to carry eight or ten * ftone in
Summer, or haula much greater weight in Wins
ter. Thefe, and other fimilar accomplifhments,
are all that are fought after, or expected, of a
Northern Indian woman. As to their temper, it)
is of little confequence; for the men have a won-—
derful facility in making the moft ftubborn com-
ply with as much alacrity as could poflibly be ex-
pected from thofe of the mildeft and moft oblig-
ing turn of mind’; fo that the only real difference
is, the one obeys through fear, and the other com-.
plies cheerfully from a willing mind; both know-
ing that what is commanded muft be done. They’
are, in fact, all kept at a great diftance, and the:
rank they hold in the opinion of the men cannot)
be better exprefled or explained, than by obferv-
ing the method of treating or ferving them at’
meals, which would appear very humiliating, to:
an European woman, though cuftom makes it 7
light on thofe whofe lot it is to bear it. It is ne-
ceflary to obferve, that when the men kill any’
large beaft, the women are always fent to bring it!
to the tent: when it is brought there, every opes.
ration it undergoes, fuch as fplitting, drying,
pounding, &c. is performed by the women. |
When any thing is to be prepared for eating, it is
the women who cook it; and when it is done,)
the wives and daughters of the greateft Captains!

in

a

* The ftone here meant is fourteen pounds.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

in the country are never ferved, till all the males,

ave eaten what they think proper; and in times
of fearcity it is frequently their lot to be left with-
ijout a fingle morfel. It is, however, natural to

Cf ifevere beating. If they are epraitifed by 2 woman

all poflible hafte in building the canoe, that it
might be ready on our arrival.

Having finifhed fuch wood-work as the Indians
; thought would be neceffary, and having aug-

twenty-

whofe youth and inattention to domeftic concerns —

gi
1771.

even thofe who are in the capacity of fervants, —.~

April.

2oth,

g2

1771. twenty-firft was appointed for moving; but oné |
\-v~ of the women having been taken in labour, and

April.

- moans, were a fuflicient proof of the great pain

A JOURNEY TO THE

|

it being rather an extraordinary cafe, we were |
detained more than two days. The inftant,
however, the poor woman was delivered, which |
was not until fhe had fuffered all the pains ufually |
felt on thofe occafions for near fifty-two hours, the
fignal was made for moving when the poor creas
ture took her infant on her back and fet out with
the reft of the company; and though another
perfon had the humanity to haul her fledge for
her, (for one day only,) fhe was obliged to car=
ry a confiderable load befide her little charge, and
was frequently obliged to wade knee-deep in water)
and wet fnow. Her very looks, exclufive of her’

fhe endured, infomuch that although fhe was a
perfon I greatly difliked, her diftrefs at this time
fo overcame my prejudice, that I never felt mor
for any of her fex in my life; indeed her fig
pierced me to the foul, and rendered me very mt-
ferable, as it was not in my power to relieve her. |
When a Northern Indian woman is taken in law
bour, a {mall tent is erected for her, at fuch a dif
tance from the other tents that her cries cannot
eafily be heard, and the other women and young
girls are her conitant vifitants: no male, except
children in arms, ever offers to approach her. ft
is a circumftance perhaps to be lamented, that
thefe people never attempt to aflift each other on
thofe occafions, even in the moft critical cafes.
This

NORTHERN OCEAN. 93

his is in fome meafure owing to delicacy, but 1771.
more probably to an opinion they entertain that Ure
‘nature is abundantly fufficient to perform every 4?"
| hing required, without any external help what-

ever. WhenlI informed them of the afliftance

which European women derive from the fkill and
attention of our midwives, they treated it with

he utmoft contempt; ironically obferving, “that

KF the many hump-backs, bandy-legs, and other

| ‘deformities, fo frequent among the Englifh,

F§ were undoubtedly owing to the great {kill of

\s the perfons who affifted in bringing them into
{/©the world, and to the extraordinary care of
¢ their nurfes afterward.” i
A Northern Indian woman after child-birth is
reckoned unclean for a month or five weeks ;_
‘uring which time fhe always remains in 4 {mall
jent placed at a little diflance from the others,
With only a female acquaintance or two; and dur-
ng the whole time the father never fees the child.
)(heir reafon for this practice is, that children
vhen firft born are fometimes not very fightly,
having in general large heads, and but little hair,
| \ndare, moreover, often difcoloured by the force
of the labour; fo that were the father to fee them
‘jo fuch great difadvantage, he might probably
Jake a diflike to them, which never afterward
) jould be removed.

| The names of the children are always given to
hem by the parents, or fome perfon near of kin.
_ vhofe of the boys are various, and generally de-
| | a rived

94

1771

LA~ names of the girls are chiefly taken from fome_

April.

23d.

May.
3d.

A JOURNEY TO THE

rived from fome place, feafon, or animal; the

part or property of a Martin ; fuch as, the White _
Martin, the Black Martin, the Summer Martin, |
the Martin’s Head, the Martin’s Foot, the Mar-_
tin’s Heart, the Martin’s Tail, &c.* |
On the twenty-third, as I hinted above, we be- |
gan to move forward, and to fhape our courfe
nearly North; but the’ weather was in general .
fo hot, and fo much fnow had, in confequence, |
been melted, as made it bad walking in {now-
fhoes, and fuch exceeding heavy hauling, that it)
was the third of May before we could arrive at
Clowey, though the diftance was not above eigh-
ty-five miles from If helewey-aza-yeth. In our)
way we crofled part of two finall Lakes, called
Tittameg Lake and Scartack Lake; neither of
which are of any note, though both abound with)
fine fith. |

¥ Matonabbec had cight wives, and they were all called Martins.

CHAP, }

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ee A Ba My

Tranfaions at Clowey, and on our Journey, till
our Arrival at the Copper-mine River.

Several firange Indians join us.—Indians employed
building canoes; dofcription and ufe of them.—
More Indians join us, to the amount of fome hundreds.
—Leave Clowey.—Receive intelligence that Keel-
Jhies was near us.—Two young men difpatched for
my letters and goods.—Arrive at Pefhew Lake ;
crofs part of it, and make a large /moke.—One of
Matonabbee’s wives elopes.—Some remarks on the
natives.— Keelfhies joins us, and delivers my letters,
but the goods were all expended.i—A Northern In-
dian wif/bes to take one of Matonabbee’s wives from
him; matters compromifed, but had like to have
proved fatal to my progrefs.—€rofs Pefhew Lake,
when I make proper arrangements for the remainder
of my gourney.— Many Indians join our party, inor-
der to make war on the Efquimaux at the Copper Ri-
ver.—Preparations made for that purpofe while at
Clowey .—Proceed on our gourney to the North.—
Some remarks on the way.—Crofs Cogead Lake on
the ice-—The fun did not fet.—Arrive at Conge-
cathawhachaga.— Find feveral Copper Indians there.
—Remarks and tranfattions during our fay at Con-
gecathawhachaga.—Proeceed on our journey.—Wea-
ther very bad.— Arrive at the Stoney Mountains.—~
Some account of them.—Crofs part of Buffalo Lake

on

96

71. 7

May.

3d.

A JOURNEY TO THE

on the ice.—Saw many mufk-oxen.—Defcription of
them.—Went with fome Indians to view Grizzle-
bear Hill.—‘Foin a ftrange Northern Indian Leader, |
called O? lye, in company with fome Copper Indians. |
—Their behaviour to me.—Arrive at the Copper- —
mine River. |

HE Lake Clowey: is not much more than ~
twelve miles broad in the wideft part... A ‘
{mall river which runs into it on the Weft fide, is ©
faid by the Indians to join the Athapufcow Lake.
On our arrival at Clowey on the third of May, ‘i
we found that the Captain’s brother, and thofe
who were fent a-head with him from Theley-aza
River, had only got there two days before us ; 4
and, on account of the weather, had not made the
jeaft progrefs in building the canoe, the plan of —
which they had taken with them, The fameday ©
we got to Clowey feveral other Indians joined us
from different quarters, with intent to build their
canoes at the fame place. Some of thofe indians
had refided within four or five miles, to the South

- Eaft of Glowey all the Winter; and had pro-

cured a plentiful livelihood by fnaring deer, in |
the manner which has been already defcribed
Immediately after our arrival at Clowey, the In. —
dians beganto build their canoes, and embraced
every convenient opportunity for that purpofe:
but as warm and dry weather only is fit for this -
bufinefs, which was by no means the cafe at pre- —
fent, it was the eighteenth of May before the ca-
noes

NORTHERN OCEAN.

noes belonging to my party could be completed.

97
1771:

On the nineteenth we began to proceed on our ~~~

journey ; but Matonabbee’s canoe meeting with
fome damage, which took near a whole day to
repair, we were detained till the twentieth.
_ Thofe veflels, though made of the fame mate-
rials with the canoes of the Southern Indians, dif-
fer from them both in fhape and conftruction ;
they are alfo much fmaller and lighter, and though
| very flight and fimple in their confiruction, are
| neverthelefs the beft that could poffibly be con-
trived for the ufe of thofe poor people, who are
frequently obliged to carry them a hundred, and
fometimes a hundred and fifty miles at a time,
without having occafion to put them into the wa-
ter. Indeed, the chief ufe of thefe canoes is to
ferry over unfordable rivers; though fometimes,
and at a few places, it muft be acknowledged,
that they are of great fervice in killing deer, as
they enable the Indians to crofs rivers and the
narrow parts of lakes; they are alfo ufeful in kill-
| ing {wans, geefe, ducks, &c.in the moulting feafon.
All the tools ufed by an Indian in building his
canoe, as well as in making his fnow-fhoes, and
every other kind of wood-work, confift of a
hatchet, a knife, a file, and an awl; in the ufe of
which they are fo dextrous, that every thing they
| make is executed with a neatnefs not to be ex-
| celled by the moft expert mechanic, aflifted with
| every tool he could with.
~ In fhape the Northern Indian canoe bears fome
st refem-

May.
19th.

22th,

A JOURNEY TO THE

refemblance to a weaver’s fhuttle; being flat-bot. |
tomed, with ftraight upright fides, and fharp~
at each end; but the ftern is. by far the wideft”
part, as there the baggage is generally laid, amd)
occafionally a fecond perfon, who always lies
down at full length in the bottom of the canoe,
In this manner they carry one another acrofs rie’

vers and the narrow parts of lakes in thofe little’

vellels, which feldom exceed twelve or thirteen

feet in length, and are from twenty inches totwo
feet broad in the wideft part. The head, or fore |
part, is unneceflarily long, and narrow; and is all! |
covered over with birch-bark, which adds confi: |
derably to the weight, without contributing to |
the burthen of the veflel. In general, thefe Indi-
ans make ufe of the fingle paddle, thougha few |
have double ones, like the Efquimaux: the lat-
ter, however, are feldom ufed, but by thofe who
lie in wait to kill deer as they crofs rivers and
narrow lakes*.

During

* See Plate [V. where Fig. Areprefents the bottom of the eanoe, Fig. Bi
being the fore-part. Fig. C is the complete frame of one before it is co-
vered with the bark of the birch-tree: it is reprefented on an artificial)
bank, which the natives raife to build it on, Fig. Dis an end view of &
fet of timbers, bent and lafled in their proper thape, and ieft to dry, Fig,
E is the reprefentation of a complete canoe. Fig. F reprefents one of
their paddles. Fig. Ga fpear with which they kill deer; and Fig. Hy
their mode of carrying the canoe! "

The following references are to the feveral parts of the canoe; Fig. C.
1. The ftem, 2. The ftern-poft. 3. Two forked fticks fupporting the
{tem and ftern-poft, 4. The gunwales. 5. Small rods placed between the
timber and birch-back that covers them, 6, The timbers. 7. Fhe keel- |) ~
fon. 8, Large ftones placed there to keep the bottom fteady till the fides)
are fewed. on,

Lf lale N.

To tice Lage 98.

Reterence Relerence lo the Skeleton
1° The Stem

A The Bottom of the Comoe
B The Feorepart

2 Stern post
The frame, compleat

3g lwo torked Sticks. supporting Ge Stem & Stem
4 Lhe Guawails

DASet of Timbers beat and lashedin cher proper
vhape tor drying é ——

—e ~-
ee

AF Sina Rode placed between the Tiribers & the Bivchrind |
ki A Ginve compleat ee tae The Timbers

F APaddle Keli

; 4 th in the Water

NORTHERN OCEAN.

During our ftay at Clowey we were joined by
Wipward of two hundred Indians from different
‘quarters, moft of whom built canoes at this place;
but as | was under the protection of a principal
man, no one offered to moleft me, nor can I fay
they were very clamorous for any thing I had.
This was undoubtedly owing to Matonabbee’s in-
forming them of my true fituation ; which was,
that I had not, by any means, fufficient necefla-
ries for myfelf, much lefs to give away. . The few
goods which I had with me were intended to be
referved for the Copper and Dogribbed Indians,
who never vifit the Company’s Fatories. ‘To-
bacco was, however, always given away ; for
every one of any note, who joined us, expected

to be treated with a few pipes, and on fome oc-

cafions it was fcarcely poflible to get off without
prefenting a few inches * to them; which, with
the conftant fupplies which I was obliged to fur-
nifh my own crew, decreafed that article of my
ttock fo faft, that notwithftanding I had yet ad-
vanced fo {mall a part of my journey, more than
one half of my ftore was expended. Gun-pow-
der and fhot alfo were articles commonly afked
for by moft of the Indians we met; and in gene-
ral thefe were dealt round to them with a liberal
hand by my guide Matonabbee. I mutt, howe-
ver, do him the juftice to acknowledge, that what
| H 2 he

* The tobacco'ufed in Hudfon’s Bay is the Brafil tobacco; which is twitt-

_ ¢d into the form of arope, of near an inch diameter, and then wound into
@ large roll; from which it is taken by meafures of length, for the natives.

106

17st.

-~——~ chafed at the Factory ; to my certain knowledge -

o

cient for our fupport during our journey out and ©

A JOURNEY TO THE
he diftributed was all his own, which he had pur-

he bartered one hundred and fifty martins’ fkins
for powder only; befides a great number of bea-
ver, and other furrs, for thot, ball, iron-work,
and tobacco, purpofely to give away among his
countrymen; as he had certainly as many of thefe
articles given to him as were, in his opinion, fuffi-

home.

Matonabbee’s canoe having been repaired, on
the twentieth we left Clowey, and proceeded
Northward. ‘That morning a {mall gang of ftran-
gers joined us, who informed my guide, that Cap-
tain Keelfhies was within a day’s walk to the
Southward. Keelfhies was the man by whom I
had {ent a letter to Prince of Wales’s Fort, from
Cathawhachaga, in the beginning of July one
thoufand feven hundred and feventy ; but not
long after that, having the misfortune to break
my quadrant, I was obliged to return to the Fort
a fecond time; and though we faw many fmokes,
and {poke with feveral Indians on my return that
year, yet he and I miffed each other on the barren

ground, and I had not feen or heard of him fince

that time.

As Matonabbee was defirous that I fhould re-—

ceive my letters, and alfo the goods I had written
for, he difpatched two of his young men to bring
them. We continued our journey to the North-
ward; andthe next day faw feveral large {mokes

at

|
}
|

NORTHERN OCEAN.

at a great diftance to the Eaftward on the barren
ground, which were fuppoled to be made by fome
parties of Indians bound to Prince of Wales’s Fort
with furrs and other commodities for trade.

On the twenty-fecond and twenty third, we
proceeded to the North, at the rate of fourteen or
fifteen miles a day; and in the evening of the lat-
ter, got clear of all the woods, and lay on the bar-
ren ground. ‘The fame evening the two young
men who were fent for my letters, &c. returned,
and told me that Keelfhies had promifed to join
us in a few days, and deliver the things to me
with his own hand.

The twenty-fourth proved bad and rainy wea-
ther, fo that we only walked about feven miles,
when finding a few blafted {lumps of trees, we
pitched our tents. It was well wedid fo, for to-
wards night we had exceflively bad weather, with
loud thunder, {trong lightning, and heavy rain,
attended with a very hard gale of wind from the
South Weft; toward the next morning, howe-
ver, the wind veered round to the North Weft,
and the weather became intenfely cold and frofly.
We walked that day about eight miles to the
Northward, when we were obliged to put up,
being almoft benumbed with cold. There we
found a few dry ftumps, as we had done the day
before, which ferved us for fewel*.

The

* I have obferved, during my feveral journies in thofe parts, that all the

way to the North of Seal River the edge of the wood is faced with old wi-
thered

22d,

24th.

102,

47 GA;

A JOURNEY TO THE
The weather on the twenty-fixth was fo bad,

—~—/ with {now and thick drifting fleet, that we did not

Mas.
26th,
27th.

28th.

move; but the next morning proving fine and
pleafant, we dried our things, and walked about
twelve miles to the Northward; moft of the way
on the ice of a {mall river which runs into Pefhew
Lake*. We then faw afmoke to the Southward,
which we judged to be made by Keelfhies, fo we
put up for the night by the fide of the above-
mentioned Lake, where I expeéted we fhould.
have waited for his arrival; but, to my great
furprize, on the morrow we again fet forward,
and walked- twenty-two miles to the Northward
on Pefhew Lake, and in the afternoon pitched
our tents on an ifland, where, by my defire, the
indians made a large fmoke, and propofed to ftay

a day or two for Captain Keelfhies.
3 In

thered ftamps, and trees which have been blown down by. the wind.

They are moftly of the fort which is called hereJuniper, but were feldom of
any confiderable fize. Thofe blafted trees are found in fome parts to ex.

tend to the diftance of twenty miles from the living woods, and detached

patches of them are much farther off; which is a proof that the cold has

been encteafing in thofe parts for fome ages. Indeed, fome of the older

Northern Indians have aflured me, that they have heard their fathers and

grandfathers fay, they remembered the greateft part of thofe places where

the trees are now blafted and dead, in a flourifhing ftate; and that they

wereremarkable for abounding with deer. Itis a well-known faé, that_
many deer are fond of frequenting thofe plains where the juniper trees

abound near barren grounds, particularly in fine weather during the Win-

ter; but in heavy gales of wind they either take fheiter in the thick woods,
or goout on the open plains. The Indians, who never want a reafon for
any thing, fay, that the deer quit the thin ftraggling woods during the
high winds, becaufe the nodding of the trees, when at a confiderable dif-
tance from each other, frightens them; but in the midft of a thick foreft,
the conftant ruftling of the branches lulls them into fecurity, andrenders
them an éafy prey to a fkilfal hunter.

* Probably the fame with Partridge Lake in the Map,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

In the night, one of Matonabbee’s wives and

103

1771.

another woman eloped: it was fuppofed they fg

“svent off to the Eaftward, in order to meet their
former hufbands, from whom they had been
fometime before taken by force. This affair made
more noife and buftle than I could have fuppof-
ed; and Matonabbee feemed entirely difconcert-
ed, and quite inconfolable for the lofs of his wife.
She was certainly by far the handfomeft of all his
flock, of a moderate fize, and had a fair complex-
ion; fhe apparently poflefled a mild temper, and
very engaging manners. In fat, fhe feemed to
have every good quality that could be expected in
a Northern Indian woman, and that could render
her an agreeable companion to an inhabitant of
this part of the world. She had not, however,
appeared happy in her late fituation ; and chofe
rather to be the fole wife of a fprightly young
fellow of no note, (though very capable of main-
taining her,) than to have the feventh or eighth
fhare of the affection of the greatef{t man in the
country. J am forry to mention an incident which
happened while we were building the canoes at
Clowey, and which by no means does honour to
Matonabbee: it is no lefs a crime than that of
having actually flabbed the hufband of the above-
mentioned girl in three places; and had it not
been for timely affiftance, would certainly have
murdered him, for no other reafon than becaufe
the poor man had fpoken difrefpectfully of him
for having taken his wife away by force. The cool

deliberation

104

17ga

A JOURNEY TO THE

sdeliberation with which Matonabbee committed — | .

=~ this bloody action, convinced me it had beena

May,

long premeditated defign; for he no fooner heard
of the man’s arrival, than he opened one of his
wives’ bundles, and with the greateft compofure,
took out a new Jong box-handled knife, went in-
to the man’s tent, and, without any preface what-
ever, took him by the collar, and began to exe-
cute his horrid defign. ‘The poor man anticipat-
ing his danger, fell on his face, and called for af-
fiftance ; but before any could be had he receiv-
ed three wounds in the back. Fortunately for
him, they all happened on the fhoulder-blade, fo
that his life was fpared. When Matonabbee re-
turned to histent, after committing this horrid
deed, he fat down as compofedly as if nothing had
happened, called for water to wafh his bloody
hands and knife, {moked his pipe as ufual, feem-
ed to be perfectly at eafe, and afked if I did not
think he had done right ?

It has ever been hie cuftom among thofe peo-
ple for the men to wreftle forany womanto whom
they are attached; and, of courfe, the ftrongeft |
party always carries off the prize. A weak man,
unlefs he be a good hunter and well-beloved, is _
feldom permitted to keep a wife that a flronger —
man thinks worth his notice: for at any time
when the wives of thofe ftrong wreftlers are hea-
vy-laden either with furrs or provifions, they
make no fcruple of tearing any other man’s wife

‘trom his bofom, and making her bear a part of

his

NORTHERN OCEAN.
hisluggage. This cuftom prevails throughout all

105
1771.

their tribes, and caufes a great, fpirit of emulati- M—~

on among their youth, who are upon all occafi-
ons, from their childhood, trying their ftrength
and {killin wreftling. This enables them to pro-
tect their property, and particularly their wives,
from the hands of thofe powerful ravifhers ; fome
of whom make almoft a livelihood by takin g what
they pleafe from the weaker parties, without mak-
ing them any return. Indeed, it is reprefented
as an act of great generofity, if they condefcend
to make an unequal exchange; as, in general,
abufe and infult are the only return for the lofs
which is fuftained.

The way in which they tear the women and
other property from one another, though it has
the appearance of the greateft brutality, can
{carcely be called fighting. I never knew any of
them receive the leaft hurt in thefe rencontres ;
the whole bufinefs confifts in hauling each other
about by the hair of the head; they are feldom
known either to ftrike or kick one another. It
is not uncommon for one of them to cut off his
hair and to greafe his ears, immediately before the
conteft begins. This, however, is done private-
ly ; and it is fometimes truly laughable, to fee one
of the parties firutting about with an air of great
importance, and calling out, ‘* Where is he?
«< Why does he not come out ”” when the other
will bolt out with a clean fhorned head and greaf-
ed ears, rufh on his antagonift, feize, him by

the

May.

106

1771. the hair, and though perhaps a much weaker man, |
yc foon drag him to the ground, while the ftronger

A JOURNEY TO THE

is not able to lay hold on him. It is very fre-
quent on thofe occafions for each party to have —
{pies, to watch the other’s motions, which puts
them more on a footing of equality. For want
of hair to pull, they feize each other about the -
waift, with legs wide extended, and try their
ftrength, by endeavouring to vie who can firft
thro wthe other down.

On thefe wreftling occafions the ftanders-by ne-
ver attempt to interfere in the conteft ; even one |
brother offers not to affift another, unlefs it”
be with advice, which, as it is always delivered
openly on the field during the conteft, may, in
fact, be faid to be equally favourable to both par-
ties. It fometimes happens that one of the wreft. |
lers is fuperior in ftrength to the other; and if a |
woman be the caufe of the conteft, the weaker is |
frequently unwilling to yield, notwithftanding he
is greatly overpowered. When this happens to
be the cafe, the relations and friends, or other
bye-ftanders, will fometimes join to perfuade the
weaker combatant to give up-the conteft, left, by
continuing it, he fhould get bruifed and hurt,
without the leaft probability of being able to pro-
te& what he is contending for. I obferved that —
very few of thofe people were difiatisfied with the
wives which had fallen to their lot, for whenever
any confiderable number of them were in com-
pany, fcarcely a day pafled without fome over-

tures being made for contefts of this kind; and
it J

NORTHERN OCEAN.

it was often very unpleafant to me, to fee the ob-

107

Chae

_ ject of the conteft fitting in penfive filence watch. ——~

ing her fate, while her hufband and his rival were
contending for the prize. I have indeed not only
felt pity for thofe poor wretched vitims, but the
utmoft indignation, when I have feen them won,
perhaps, by aman whom they mortally hated.
On thofe occafions their grief and reluctance to
follow their new lord has been fo great, that the
bufinefs has often ended in the greateft brutality ;
for, in the ftruggle, Ihave feen the poor girls
| ftripped quite naked, and carried by main force to
| their.new lodgings. At other times it was plea-
| fant enough to fee a fine girl led off the field from
a hufband the difliked, with a tear in one eye and
a finger on the other: for cuftom, or delicacy if
you pleafe, has taught them to think it neceflary
to whimper a little, let the change be ever fo
much to their inclination. I have throughout this
account given the women the appellation of girls,
which is pretty applicable, as the objects of con-
teft are generally young, and without any family:
| few of the men chufe to be at the trouble of main-
taining other people’s children, except on particu-
lar occafions, which will be taken notice of here-
after. 3
Some of the old men, who are famous on ac-
count of their fuppofed {kill in conjuration, have
jgreat influence in perfuading the rabble from
committing thofe outrages; but the humanity of
thefe fages is feldom known to extend beyond
their

:

te i

May.

108

1771.

A JOURNEY TO THE

their own families. In defence of them they will.
=. exert their utmoft influence; but when their own
relations are guilty of the fame crime, they {el- 9) |
dom interfere. This partial condu@ creates fome |

fecret, and feveral open enemies; but the gene-
rality of their neighbours are deterred, through
fear or fuperitition, from executing their revenge,
and even from talking difrefpectfully of them, un-

lefs it be behind their backs; which is a vice of _
which almoft every Indian in this country, with- _

out exception, is guilty.

Notwithftanding the Northern Indians are fo —
covetous, and pay fo little regard to private pro- __
perty as to take every advantage of bodily ftrength _
to.rob their neighbours, not only of their goods,
but of their wives, yet they are, in other refpects,
the mildeft tribe, or nation, that is to be found _
on the borders of Hudfon’s Bay: for let their af-
fronts or lofles be ever fo great, they never will _

feek any other revenge than that of wreftling.

As for murder, which is fo common among all —
the tribes of Southern Indians, it is feldom heard |
of among them. A murderer is fhunned and de,

tefted by all the tribe, and is obliged to wander

up and down, forlorn and forfaken even by his _
own relations and former friends. In that refpect —
a murderer may truly be compared to Cain, after —
he had killed his brother Abel. The cool recep- |
tion he meets with by all who know him, occa- |
fions him to grow melancholy, and he never
leaves any place but the whole company fay

“ There |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

© There goes the murderer!” The women, it is
true, fometimes receive an unlucky blow from
their hufbands for mifbehaviour, which occafions
their death; but this is thought nothing of: and
for one man or woman to kill another out of re-
venge, or through jealoufy, or on any other ac-
count, is fo extraordinary, that very few are now
exifting who have been guilty of it. At the pre-
fent moment I know not one, befide Matonabbee,
who ever made an attempt of that nature; and
‘heis, in every other refpect, a man of fuch uni-
verfal good fenfe, and, as an Indian, of fuch great
humanity, that I am at a lofs how to account for
his having been guilty of fuch a crime, unlefs it be
by his having lived among the Southern Indians
fo long, as to become tainted with their blood-

thirfty, revengeful, and vindictive difpofition.
Early in the morning of the twenty-ninth, cap-
tain Keelfhies joined us. He delivered to mea
packet of letters, and a two-quart keg of French
brandy; but aflured me, that the powder, fhot,
tobacco, knives, &c. which he received at the Fort
for me, were all expended. He endeavoured to
make fome apology for this, by faying, that fome
of his relations died in the Winter, and that he had,
according to their cuftom, throw all his own
things away; after which he was obliged to have
recourfe to my ammunition and other goods, to
fupport himfelf and a numerous family. The ve-
_| ry affecting manner in which he related this ftory,
often crying like a child, was a great proof of his
extreme

10g

1771.
NS

May.

2gth,

110

174.

May.

A JOURNEY TO THE

extreme forrow, which he wifhed to perfuade me _
crew arofe from the recolleGion of his having embez- _
zled fo much of my property; but I was of adif- |
ferent opinion, and attributed his grief to arife —
from the remembrance of his deceafed relations. |
However, as a {mall recompence for my lofs, he —

prefented we with four ready-drefled moofe-fkins,

which was, he faid, the only retribution he could —

then make. The moofe-fkins, though not the

twentieth part of the value of the goods which
he had embezzled, were in reality more accepta-
ble to me, than the ammunition and the other ©
articles would have been, on account of their
great ufe as fhoe-leather, which at that time was _
a very f{carce article with us, whereas we had plen-

ty of powder and fhot.

On the fame day that Keelfhies joined us, an In- |
dian man, who had been fome time in our com-

pany, infifted on taking one of Matonabbee’s

wives from him by force, unlefs he complied with

his demands, which were, that Matonabbee

fhould give him a certain quantity of ammuniti-_
on, fome pieces of iron-work, a kettle, and feveral
other articles; every one of which, Matonabbee: |

was obliged to deliver, or lofe éhe woman; fob

the other man far excelled him in ftrength. Ma-
tonabbee was more exafperated on this occafion, |
as the fame man had fold him the woman no lon- |

ger ago than the nineteenth of the preceding
April. Having expended all the goods he then
poffefled, however, he was determined to make

another

|

NORTHERN OCEAN.

another bargain for her; and as fhe was what

iff

1771.

may be called a valuable woman in their eftima- ——~

tion; that is, one who was not only tolerably per-
fonable, but reckoned very fkilful in manufac-
turing the different kinds of leather, fkins, and
furrs, and at the fame time very clever in the per-
formance of every other domeftic duty required
of the fex in this part of the world; Matonabbee
was more unwilling to part with her, efpecially as
he had fo lately fuffered a lofs of the fame kind.

’ This difpute, which was after fome hours de-
cided by words and prefents, had like to have
proved fatal to my expedition ; for Matonabbee,
who at that time thought himfelf as great a man
as then lived, took this affront fo much to heart,
efpecially as it was offeredin my prefence, that he
almoft determined not to proceed any farther to-
ward the Copper-mine River, and was on the
point of firiking off to the Weftward, with an
intent tojoin the Athapufcow Indians, and conti-
nue withthem: he being perfectly well acquaint-
ed with all their leaders, and moft of the princi-
pal Indians of that country, from whom, during
a former refidence among them of feveral years,
he faid he had met with more civility than he
ever did from his own countrymen. As Mato-
nabbee feemed refolutely bent on his defign, I
had every reafon to think that my third expediti-
on would prove equally unfuccefsful with the two
former. 1 was not, however, under the leaf
apprehenfion for my own fafety, as he promifed
to

May,

11I2

1771.
ae to Prince of Wales’s Fort, with fome of the Atha- _

pufcow Indians, who at that time annually vifited

agth.

goth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

to take me with him, and procure me a paflage

the FaGtory in the way of trade. After waiting

till I thought Matonabbee’s paflion had a little:

abated, I ufed every argument of which I was

. mafter in favour of his proceeding on the journey; _
affuring him not only of the future efteem of the

prefent Governor of Prince of Wales’s Fort, but
alfo of that of all his fucceffors as long as he liv-

ed; and that even the Hudfon’s Bay Company —
themfelves would be ready to acknowledge his
afliduity and perfeverance, in conducting a bufi-
nefs which had fo much the appearance, of prov:
ing advantageous to them. After fome conver- |
fation of this kind, and a good deal of intreaty, ©
he at length confented to proceed, and promifed —
to make all poffible hafte. Though it was then

late in the afternoon, he gave orders for moving,

and accordingly we walked about feven miles

that night, and put up on another ifland in Pefh-
ew Lake. The preceding afternoon the Indians

had killed a few deer ; but our number was then —

fo great, that eight or ten deer would fcarcely af-

ford us allatafte. Thefe deer were the firft we
had feen fince our leaving the neighbourhood of
Thelewey-aza-yeth ; fo that we had lived all the: |
time on the dried meat which had been prepaid |

before we left that place in April.

The thirtieth proved bad, rainy weather; we’
walked, however, about ten miles to the North«
ward,

NORTHERN OCEAN. 113

ward, when we arrived on the North fide of Pefh- 1741,
ew Lake, and put up. Here Matonabbee ime oe
diately,began to make every neceflary arrange-
‘ment for facilitating the executing of our defign;
and as he had promifed to make all poffible hatte,
he thought it expedient to leave moft of his wives
‘and all his children in the care of fome Indians,
then in our company, who had his orders to pro-
ceed to the Northward at their leifure ; and who,
at a particular place appointed by him, were to
wait our return from the Copper-mine River.
Having formed this refolution, Matonabbee fe-
leé&ted two of his young wives who had no chil-
-dren, to accompany us; and in order to make
their loads as light as poffible, it was agreed that
we fhould not take more ammunition with us
than was really neceflary for our fupport, till we
might expect again to join thofe Indians and the
women and children. ‘The fame meafures were
alfo adopted by all the other Indians of my party;
particularly thofe who had a plurality of wives,
and a number of children.
As thefe matters took fome time to adjuft, it 2%
was near nine o’clock in the evening of the thir-
ty-firft before we could fet out; and then it was
with much difficulty that Matonabbee could per-
fuade his other wives from following him, with
their children and all their lumber; for fuch was
their unwillingnefs to be left behind, that he was
obliged to ufe his authority before they would
confent, confequently they parted in anger; and
we

114

177;. We no fooner began our march, than they fet up
—— a moft woeful cry, and continued to yell molt |
pitecufly as long as we were within hearing. —

May.

any kind of game.

A JOURNEY TO THE

This mournful fcene had fo little effect on my _
party, that they walked away laughing, and as |
merry as ever. The few who exprefied any re- |
gret at their departure from thofe whom they
were to leave behind, confined their regard whol-
ly to their children, particularly to the youngeft,
{carcely ever mentioning their mother. i]
Though it was fo late when we left the women, _
we walked about ten miles that night before we
ftopped. In our way we faw many deer; feveral
of which the Indians killed. To talk of travelling |
and killing deer in the middle of the night, may |
at firft view have the appearance of romance; |
but our wonder will fpeedily abate, when it is |
confidered that we were then to the Northward
of 64° of North latitude, and that, in confequence
of it, though the Sun did not remain the whole
night above the horizon, yet the time it remain- |
ed below it was fo thort, and its depreflion even |
at midnight fo fmall at this feafon of the year, |
that the light, in clear weather, was quite fuflici-
ent for the purpofe both of f eallsing, and pantie

It fhould have been obferved, that duit our
ftay at Clowey a great number of Indians entered |
into a combination with thofe of my party to ac- |
company us to the Copper-mine River; and with |
no other intent than to murder the Efquimaux,

who |

NORTHERN OCEAN.
who are underftood by the Copper Indians to fre-

{cheme, notwithftanding the trouble and fatigue,
as well as danger, with which it muft be obviou-
fly attended, was neverthelefs fo univerfally ap-
proved by thofe people, that for fome time almoft
every man who joined us propofed to be of the
party. Accordingly, each volunteer, as well as
\thofe who were properly of my party, prepared
jatarget, or fhield, before we left the woods of
\Clowey. Thofe targets were compofed of thin
boards, about three quarters of an inch thick, two
feet broad, and three feet long; and were intend-
‘led to ward off the arrows of the Efquimaux.
\Notwithftanding thefe preparations, when we
came to leave the women and children, as has
‘been already mentioned, only fixty volunteers
\|would go with us; the reft, who were nearly as
‘many more, though they had all prepared targets,
‘reflecting that they had a great diftance to walk,
land that no advantage could be expeéted from

if

i

f

eemed to be a mere evafion, for I am clearly of
pinion that poverty on one fide, and avarice on
the other, were the only impediments to their
joining our party; had they poffeffed as many
a2 European

its
i271.

quent that river in confiderable numbers. This —~—

May~

116

1771.
vrrn)
May.

SS ee

A JOURNEY TO THE

European goods to fquander away among their |
countrymen as Matonabbee and thofe of my party -
did, in all probability many might have been found |
who would have been glad to have accompaniedus. —
When I was acquainted with the intentions of
my companions, and faw the warlike preparations _
that were carrying on, I endeavoured as much as_
poflible to perfuade them from putting their in.
human defign into execution; but fo far were my
intreaties fia having the wifhed-for effect, that
it was concluded I was actuated by cowardice;
and they told me, with great marks of derifion, |
that I was afraid of the Efquimaux. As J knew)
my perfonal fafety depended in a great meafure)
on the favourable opinion they entertained of me
in this refpect, I was obliged to change my tone,
and replied, that I did not care if they render

the name and race of the Efquimaux extind;,
adding at the fame time, that though I was no
enemy to the Efquimaux, and did not fee the
neceflity of attacking them without caufe, yet if
1 fhould find it neceflary to do it, for the protec. |
tion of any one of my company, my own fafety)
out of the queftion, fo far from being afraid of a
poor defencelefs Efquimaux, whom I defpifed
more than feared, nothing fhould be wanting on)
my part to protec all who were with me. This.
declaration was received with great fatisfaGtion; }
and I never afterwards ventured to interfere with
any of their war-plans. Indeed, when I came to”
confider ferioufly, I faw evidently that it was the
higheft

ee

NORTHERN OCEAN.

117

higheft folly for an individual likeme, andin my jy»,
fituation, to attempt to turn the current of a nae Www

tional prejudice which had fubfifted between
thofe two nations from the earlieft periods, or at
leaft as long as they had been acquainted with the
exiftence of each other.

Having got rid of all the women, children, dogs,

heavy baggage, and other incumbrances, on the
firft of June we purfued our journey to the North-
ward with great fpeed; but the weather wasin
general fo precarious, and the fnow, fleet, and
‘rain fo frequent, that notwithftanding we em-
‘braced every opportunity which offered, it was
the fixteenth of June before we arrived in the la-
titude of 67° 30’, where Matonabbee had propof-
ed that the women and children fhould wait our
return from the Copper-mine River.

In our way hither we croffed feveral lakes on
theice; of which Thoy-noy-kyed Lake and Thoy-
coy-lyned Lake were the principal. We alfo
crofled a few inconfiderable creeks and rivers,
which were only ufeful as they furnithed a {mall
fupply of ffh to the natives. The weather, as I
have before obferved, was in general difagreeable,
with a great deal of rain and fnow. To makeup
for that inconvenience, however, the deer were
fo plentiful, that the Indians killed not only a fuf-
ficient quantity for our daily fupport, but fre-
quently great numbers merely for the fat, mar-
row and tongues. To induce them to defift from
this practice, I often interefted myfelf, and endea-

voured,

May.

June,
ift,

16th,

118

1771, voured, a8 much as poflible, to convince themin —

June.

goth.

art,

A JOURNEY TO THE

the cleareft terms of which I was mafter, of the
great impropriety of fuch wafte; particularly at
a time of the year when their fkins could not be |
of any ufe for clothing, and when the anxiety to
proceed on ovr journey would not permit us to
ftay long enough in one place to eat up half the |
fpoils of their hunting. As national cuftoms,
however, are not eafily overcome, my remons
firances proved ineffetual; and I was always
anfwered, that it was certainly right to kill plen-
ty, and live on the beft, when and where it was
to be got, for that it would be impoffible to do it
where every thing was {carce: and they infifted
on it, that killing plenty of deer and other game
in one part of the country, could never make
them fcarcer in another. Indeed, they were fo
accuftomed to kill every thing that came within”
their reach, that few of them could pafs by a
fmall bird’s neft, without {laying the young ones,
or deftroying the eggs. i

From the feventeenth to the twentieth, we
walked between feventy and eighty miles to the
North Weft and North North Weft; the oa
part of the way by Cogead Lake; but the Lake
being then frozen, we croffed all the creeks and
bays of it on the ice. sf

On the twenty-firft we had bad rainy weather,
with fo thick a fog that we could not fee our way:
about ten o loge? at night, however, it became

fine and clear, and the Sun fhone very bright ;
indeed»

NORTHERN OCEAN.

iig

indeed it did not fet all that night, which was a 1771.

convincing proof, without any obfervation, that
we were then confiderably to the North of the
Arctic Polar Circle.

As foon as the fine weather began, we fet out
and walked about feven or eight miles to the
Northward, when we came toa branch of Conge-
ca-tha-wha-chaga River; on the North fide of
| which we found feveral Copper Indians, who
| were aflembled, according to annual cuftom, to kill
deer as they crofs the river in their little canoes.

The ice being now broken up, we were, for the
firit time this Summer, obliged to make ufe of our
canoes to ferry acrofs the river: which would
have proved very tedious, had it not been for the
kindnefs of the Copper Indians, who fent all their
canoes to our afliftance. Though our number
was not much lefs than one hundred and fifty,
we had only three canoes, and thofe being of the
common fize, could only carry two perfons each,
without baggage. It is true, when water is
fmooth, and a raft of three or four of thofe canoes
is well fecured by poles lafhed acrofs them, they
will carry a much greater weight in proportion,
and be much fafer, as there is {carcely a poffibility
of their overfetting ; and this is the general mode
adopted by the people of this country in crofing
rivers when they have more than one canoe with
them.

- Having arrived on the North fide of this river,
we found that Matonabbee, and feveral. othersin

our

June,

22d.

120 . A JOURNEY TO THE

1771, Our company, were perfonally acquainted with
aor moft of the Copper Indians whom we found —
Me there. The latter feemed highly pleafed at the
interview with our party, and endeavoured, by
every means in their power, to convince our com-
pany of their readinefs to ferve us to the utmoft;
fo that by the time we had got our tents pitched,
the ftrangers had provided a large quantity of
dried meat and fat, by way ofa feaft, to which -
they invited moft of the principal Indians who ac-
companied me, as well as Matonabbee and myfelf,
who were prefented with fome of the very beft.
It it natural to fuppofe, that immediately after
our arrival the Copper Indians would be made
acquainted with the nature and intention of our
journey. This was no fooner done than they
exprefied their entire approbation, and many of
them feemed willing and defirous of giving every
afiftance; particularly by lending us feveral ca-
noes, which they affured us would be very ufe-
ful in the remaining part of our journey, and
contribute both to our eafe and difpatch. It mutt
be obferved, that thefe canoes were not entirely
entrufted tomy crew, but carried by the owners
themfelves who accompanied us; as it would
have been very uncertain where to have found
them at our return from the Copper River.
Agrecably to my inftrudctions, I {moked my
calumet of peace with the principal of the Copper
Indians, who feemed highly pleafed on the occa-
fion; and, from a converfation held on the fub-
ject

A I

|

NORTHERN OCEAN.

22t

ject of my journey, I found they were delighted 3771.

with the hopes of having an European fettlement
in their neighbourhood, and feemed to have no
idea that any impediment could prevent fuch a
f{cheme from being carried into execution. Cli-
mates and feafons had no weight withthem; nor
couid they fee where the difliculty lay in getting
to them; for though they acknowledged that
they had never feen the fea at the mouth of the
Copper River clear of ice, yet they could fee
nothing that fhould hinder a fhip from approach-
ing it; and they innocently enough obferved,
that the water was always fo {mooth between
the ice and fhore that even {mall boats might
get there with great eafe and fafety. Howa thip
was to get between the ice and the fhore, never
once occurred to them.

Whether it was from real motives of hofpitali-
ty, or from the great advantages which they ex-
pected to reap by my difcoveries, I know not;
but I muft confefs that their civility far exceeded
what I could expect from fo uncivilized a tribe,
and I was exceedingly forry that [had nothing of
value to offer them. However, fuch articles as I
had, 1 diftributed among them, and they were
thankfully received by them. Though they have
fome European commodities among them, which
they purchafe from the Northern Indians, the
fame articles from the hands of an Englifhman
were more prized. As I was the firft whom they
had ever feen, and in all probability might be the

laft,

June,

122

tr rh

june.

a3d.

A JOURNEY TO THE

laft, it was curious to fee how they flocked about
mie, and exprefled as much defire to examine me
from top to toe, as an European Naturalift would
a‘non-defcript animal. They, however, found
and pronounced me to bea perfect human being,
except in the colour of my hair and eyes: the
former, they faid, was like the ftained hair of a
buffaloe’s tail, and the latter, being light, were

like thofe of a gull. The whitenefs of my fkin —

alfo was, in their opinion, no ornament, as they
faid it refembled meat which had been fodden in
water till all the blood was extracted. On the
whole, I was viewed as fo great a curiofity in this
part of the world, that during my ftay there,

whenever I combed my head, fome or other of ©

them never failed to afk for the hairs that came
off, which they carefully wrapped up, faying,
“*- When I fee you again, you fhall again fee your
“¢- hair.

The day after our arrival at Congecathawha- _

chaga, Matonabbee difpatched his brother, and
feveral Copper Indians, to Copper-mine River,
with orders to acquaint any Indians they might
meet, with the reafon of my vifiting thofe parts,
and alfo when they might probably expect us at
that river. By the bearers of this meflage | fent
a prefent of tobacco and fome other things, toin-
duce any ftrangers they met to be ready to give
us affiftance, either by advice, or in any other way
which might be required.

‘As Matonabbee and the other Indians thought
| it

NORTHERN: OCEAN.

it advifable to leave all the women at this place,
and proceed to the Copper-mine River without
them, it was thought neceflary to continue here
a few days, to kill as many deer as would be fu fli-
cient for their fupport during our abfence. And
notwithftanding deer were fo plentiful, yet our
numbers were fo large, and our daily confumption
was fo great, that feveral days elapfed before the
men could provide the women with a fufficient
quantity ; and then they had no other way of
preferving it, than by cutting it in thin flices and
drying it in the Sun. Meat, when thus prepared,
is not only very portable, but palatable; as all
the blood and juices are ftill remaining in the
meat, it ts very nourifhing and wholefome food;
and may, with care, be kept a whole year with-
out the leaft danger of fpoiling. It is neceflary,
however, to air it frequently during the warm
weather, otherwife it is liable to grow mouldy:
but as foon as the chill air of the fall begins, it
requires no farther trouble till next Summer.
We had not been many days at Congecatha-
whachaga before I had reafon to be greatly con-
cerned at the behaviour of feveral of my crew to
the Copper Indians. They not only took many
of their young women, furrs, and ready-drefled

123

I 77 I.
Ne med
June.

ikins for clothing, but alfo feveral of their bows _

and arrows, which were the only implements
they had to procure food and raiment, for the
future fupport of themfelves, their wives, and fa-
milies. It may probably be thought, that as thefe
weapons are of fo fimple a form, and foe afily con-

ftructed,

124 A JOURNEY TO THE

1771, firuded, they might foon be replaced, without
\———— any other trouble or expence than a little labour;
a but this fuppofition can only hold good in places
where proper materials are eafily procured, which
was not the cafe here: if it had, they would not
have been an object of plunder. In the midft of
a foreft of trees, the wood that would make a
Northern Indian a bow and a few arrows, or in-
deed a bow and arrows ready made, are not of
much value; no more than the man’s trouble
that makes them: but carry that bow and arrows
feveral hundred miles from any woods and place
where thofe are the only weapons in ufe, their
intrinfic value will be found to increafe, in the
fame proportion as the materials which are made

are lefs attainable*.
To do Matonabbee juftice on this occafion, I
-muft fay that he endeavoured as much as poflible
to perfuade his countrymen from taking either
furrs, clothing, or bows, from the Copper Indi-
ans, without making them fome fatisfactory re-
turn; but if he did not encourage, neither did
he endeavour to hinder them from taking
as many women as they pleafed. Indeed, the
Copper Indian women feem to be much efteem-
ed by our Northern traders; for what reafon I
know not, as they are in reality the fame people
in every refpect; and their language differs not
fo much as the dialeéts of fome of the neareft _
counties in England do from each other. ‘
t

* See Pofllethwayt onthe article of Labour.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

It is not furprifing that a plurality of wives is

12

197.

all

2

cuftomary among thefe people, as it is fo well as

adapted to their fituation and manner of life. In
my opinion no race of people under the Sun have
a greater occafion for fuchanindulgence. Their
annual haunts, in queft of furrs, is fo remote
from any European fettlement, as to render them
_ the greateft travellers in the known world; and
as they have neither horfe nor water carriage,
every good hunter is under the neceflity of hav-
ing feveral perfons to aflift in carrying his furrs
to the Company’s Fort, as well as carrying back
the European goods which he receives in exchange
for them. No perfons in this country are fo pro-
per for this work as the women, becaufe they are
inured to carry and haul heavy loads from their
childhood, and to do all manner of drudgery;
{fo that thofe men who are capable of providing
for three, four, five, fix, or more women, gene-
rally find them humble and faithful fervants, af-
_ feétionate wives, and fond and indulgent mo-
thers to their children. Though cuftom makes
this way of life fit-apparently eafy on the genera-
lity of the women, and though, in general, the
whole of their wants feem to be comprized in
food and clothing only, yet nature at times gets
the better of cuftom, and the fpirit of jealoufy
makes its appearance among them : however, as
the hufband is always arbitrator, he foon fettles
the bufinefs, though perhaps not always to the
entire fatisfaction of the parties,

Much

126
1771.

A JOURNEY TO THE

Much does it redound to the honour of the

‘————’ Northern Indian women when I affirm, that they

june.

are the mildeft and moft virtuous females I have
feen in any part of North America; though fome
think this is more owing to habit, cuftom, and
the fear of their hufbands, then from real incli-
nation. It is undoubtedly well known that none
can manage a Northern Indian woman fo well asa
Northern Indian man; and when any of them
have been permitted to remain at the Fort, they
have, for the fake of gain, been eafily prevailed
on to deviate from that charaCter; and afew have,
by degrees, become as abandoned as the Southern
Indians, who are remarkable throughout all their
tribes for being the moft debauched wretches un-
der the Sun. So far from laying any reftraint
on their fenfual appetites, as long as youth and
inclination laft, they give themfelves up to all
manner of even inceftuous debauchery ; and that
in fo beaftly a manner when they are intoxicated,
a ftate to which they are peculiarly addided, that
the brute creation are not lefs regardlefs of de.
cency. I know that fome few Europeans, who
have had little opportunity of feeing them, and of
enquiring into their manners, have been very
lavifh in their praife: but every one who has had
much intercourfe with them, and penetration
and induftry enough to ftudy their difpofitions,
will agree, that no accomplifhments whatever
in aman, is fufficient ta conciliate the affections,
or

NORTHERN OCEAN.

or preferve the chaftity of a Southern Indian wo-
man*.

=

The

* Notwithftanding this is the general character of the Southern Indian

; “women, as they are called on the coafts of Hudfon’s Bay, and who are the

fame tribe with the Canadian Indians, I am happy to have it in my power

_ to infert a few lines to the memory of one of them, whom I knew from

“her infancy, and who, I can truly affirm, was direétly the reverfe of the
pidure I have drawn.

Mary, the daughter of Mose Norton, many years Chief at Prince

of Wales’s Fort, in Hudfon’s Bay, though born and brought up in a coun-

itry of all others the leaft favoyrable to virtue and virtuous principles, pof-

fefled them, and evety other good and amiable quality, in the moft emi-

nert degree.

Withont the affiftance of religion, and with no education but what fhe
received among the diflolute natives of her country, fhe would have fhone
with fuperior luftre in any other country ; for, if an engaging perfon, gen-
tle manners, an eafy freedom, arifing from a confcioufnefS of innocence, an
amiable modefty, and an unrivalled delicacy of fentiment, are graces and
virtues which render a woman lovely, none ever had greater pretenfions
to general efteem and regard: while her benevolence, humanity, and feru-
pulous adherence to truth and honefty, would have done honour to the
moft enlightened and devout Chriftian.

Dutiful, obedient, and affectionate to her parents; fteady and faithful to
her friends; grateful and humble to her benefaftors; eafily forgiving and
forgetting injuries; careful not to offend any, and courteous and kind to
all; fhe was, neverthelefs, {uffered to perifh by the rigours of cold and hun-

ger, amid{t her own relations, at a time when the griping hand of famine -

was by no means feverely felt by any other member of their company ;
and it may truly be faid that fle fell a martyr tothe principles of virtue.
This happened in the Winter of the year 1782, after the French had de-
{troyed Prince of Wales’s Fort; at which time fhe was in the twenty-fe-
cond year of her age.

Human nature fhudders at the bare recital of fuch brutality, and reafon
fhrinks from the tafk of accounting for the decrees of Providence on fuch
occafions as this; but they are the Mtrongeft affurances of a future ftate, fo
infinitely fuperior to the prefent, that the enjoyment of every pleafure in
this world by the moft worthlefs and abandoned wretch, or the moft inno-
cent and virtuous woman perifhing by the moft excruciating of all deaths,
are matters equally indifferent, But,

i Peace to the afhes, and the virtuous mind.

Of her who lived in peace with all mankind ; C
F Learn’d

127

1771.
mynd

June,

128

Lyy.t.
Leon far from being like thofe I have above defcribed,

that it is very uncommon to hear of their ever

June.

A JOURNEY TO THE

The Northern Indian women are in general fo

been guilty of incontinency, not even thofe who

are confined to the fixth oreven eighth part of a

man.

It is true, that were I to form my opinion of ©

thofe women from the behaviour of fuch as I have
been more particularly acquainted with, I fhould
have little reafon to fay much in their favour; but

impartiality will not permit me to make a few of -
the worft characters a ftandard for the general —

conduct of allofthem. Indeed itis but reafonable
to think that travellers and interlopers wiil be al.

ways ferved with the moft commodious, though —

perhaps they pay the beft price for what they haves —
It

Learn’d from the heart, unknowing of difguife,

Truth in her thoughts, and candour in her eyes;

Stranger alike to envy and to pride,

Good fenfe her light, and Nature all her guide ;

But now removed from all the ills of life,

Here refts the pleafing friend and faithful wife. WABLERe

Her father was, undoubtedly, very blamable for bringing her up in the ©

tendex manner which he did, rendering her by that means not only inca-

pable of bearing the fatigues and hardfhips which the reft of her countty= .

women think little of, but of providing for herfelf. This is, indeed, too
frequent a practice among Europeans in that country, who bring up their

children in fo indulgent a manner, that when they retire, and leave their ~
offspring behind, they find themfelves fo helplefs, as to be unable to pro-=

}
vide for the few wants to which they are fubjeét. The late Mr. Ferdinand —

Jacobs, many years Chicf at York Fort, was the only perfon whom 1 ever
knew that aGed in a different manner; though no man could poffibly be
fonder of his children in other refpects, yet as there were fome that he
could not bring to England, he had them breught up entirely among the
natives; fo that when he left the country, they fcarcely ever felt the lofsy
thongh they regretted the abfence of a fond and indulgent parent. .

NORTHERN OCEAN. °

It may appear ftrange, that while I am extoll-
ing the chaftity of the Northern Indian women,
I fhould acknowledge that it is a very common
cuftom among the men of this country to ex-
change a night’s lodging with each other’s wives.
But this is fo far from being confidered as an act
which is criminal, that it is efteemed by them as
one of the ftrongeft ties of friendfhip between two
families ; and in cafe of the death of either man,
the other confiders himfelf bound to fupport the
children of the deceafed. Thofe people are fo far
from viewing this engagement as a mere ceremo-
ny, like moft of our Chriftian god-fathers and
god-mothers, who, notwithftanding their vows
are made in the moft folemn manner, and in the
prefence of both God and man, {fcarcely ever af-
terward remember what tliecy have promifed,
that there is not an inftance of a Northern In-
dian having once neglected the duty which he is
fuppofed to have taken upon himfelf to perform.
TheSouthern Indians, with all their bad qualities,
are remarkably humane and charitable to the wi-
dows and children of departed friends; and as
their fituation and manner of life enable them to
do more aéts of charity with lefs trouble than falls
to the lot of a Northern Indian, few widows or
orphans are ever unprovided for among them.

Though the Northern Indian men make no fcru-
ple of having two or three fifters for wives at one
time, yet they are very particular in obferving a
proper diftance in the confanguinity of thofe they
K admit

130

1771.

A JOURNEY TO THE

admit to the above-mentioned intercourfe with

t~— their wives. The Southern Indians are lefs

June.

July.
i ft,

2d.

{crupulous on thofe occafions; among them it is
not at all uncommon for one brother to make
free with another brother’s wife or daughter*;
but this is held in abhorrence by the Northern
Indians.

By the time the Indians had killed as many deer
as they thought would be fufficient for the fup-
port of the women during our abfence, it was the
firtt of July; and during this time I had two
good obfervations, both by meridional and double
altitudes ; the mean of which determined the la-
titude of Congecathawhachaga to be 68° 46!
North; and its longitude, by account, was 24°
2' Weft from Prince of Wales’s Fort, or 118° 15'
Weft of the meridian of London.

On the fecond, the weather proved very bad,
with much {now and fleet; about nine o’clock

at

* Mott of the Southern Indians, as well the Athapufcow and Neheaway
tribes, are entirely without fcruple in this refpe&t. It is notorioufly known,
that many of them cohabit occafionally with their own mothers, and fre-
quently efpoufe their fiftersand daughters. { have known feveral of them
who, after having lived in that {tate for fome time with their daughters,
have given them to their fons, and all parties been perfectly reconciled
to it.

In faét, notwithftanding the feverity of the climate, the licentioufnefs of
the inhabitints cannot be exceeded by any of the Eaftern nations, whofe
luxurious manner of life, and genial clime, feem more adapted to excite
extraordinary paflfions, than the fevere cold of the frigid Zone.

it istrue, that few of thofe who live under the immediate proteétion of
the Englifh ever take either their fifters or daughters for wives, ‘which is
probably owing tothe fear of incurring their difpleafure; but it is well
known that aéts of inceft too often take place among them, thongh per-
haps not fo frequently as among the foreign Indians.

NORTHERN OCEAN. 131

at night, however, it grew more moderate, and y971,
fomewhat clearer, fo that we fet out, and walked os
about ten miles to the North by Weft, when we i:
lay down to take a little fleep. At our depar-

ture from Congecathawhachaga, feveral Indians

who had entered the war.lift, rather chofe to ftay

behind with the women; but their lofs was amp-

Jy fupplied by Copper Indians, who accompanied

us in the double capacity of guides and warriors.

On the third the weather was equally bad with 3.
that of the preceding day ; we made fhift, howe-
ver, to walk ten or eleven miles in the fame di-
rection we had done the day before, and at laft
were obliged to put up, not being able to fee our
way for {now and thick drift. By putting up,
no more is to be underftood than that we got to
leeward of a great ftone, or into the crevices of
the rocks, where we regaled ourfelves with fuch
provifions as we had brought with us, {moked
our pipes, or went to fleep, till the weather per-
mitted us to proceed on our journey.

On the fourth, we had rather better weather, 4th.
though conftant light {now, which made it very
difagreeable under foot. We neverthelefs walk-
ed twenty-feven miles to the North Weft, four-
teen of which were on what the Indians call the
Stony Mountains; and furely no part of the
world better deferves that name. On our firft
approaching thefe mountains, they appeared to
be a confufed heap of ftones, utterly inacceffible
to the foot of man: but having fome Copper In-

Reta dians

132

A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. dians with us who knew the beft road, we made
“~— a tolerable fhift to get on, though not without

July.

sth.

6th,

being obliged frequently to crawl on our hands
andknees. Notwithftanding the intricacy of the
road, there is a very vifible path the whole way.
acrofs thefe mountains, even in the moft difficult
parts: and alfo on the fmooth rocks, and tnofe
parts which are capable of receiving an imprefii-
on, the path is as plain and well-beaten, as any
bye foot-path in England. By the fide of this
path there are, in different parts, feveral large,
flat, or table ftones, which are covered with ma-
ny thoufands of fmall pebbles. Thefe the Cop-
per Indians fay have been gradually increafed by _
paflengers going to and from the mines; and on |
its being obferved to us that it was the univerfal _
cuftom for every one to add a ftone to the heap, |
each of us took up a {mall ftone in order to in- |
creafe the number, for good luck.

Juft as we arrived at the foot of the Stony |
Mountains, three of the Indians turned back; fay- |
ing, that from every appearance, the remainder |
of the journey feemed likely to be attended with —
more trouble than would counterbalance the
pleafure they could promife themfelves by going
to war with the Efquimaux.

On the fifth, as the weather was fo bad, with
conftant fnow, fleet, and rain, that we could not
fee our way, we did not offer to move: but the |
fixth proving moderate, and quite fair till toward
noon, we fet out in the morning, and walked |

about |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

130

about eleven miles to the North Weft; when 1771,

perceiving bad weather at hand, we began to eg

look out for fhelter among the rocks, as we had
done the four preceding nights, having neither
tents nor tentpoles with us. The next morning
fifteen more of the Indians deferted us, being
quite fick of the road, and the uncommon bad-
nefs of the weather. Indeed, though thefe peo-
ple are all inured to hardfhips, yet their com-
plaint on the prefent occafion was not without
reafon ; for, from our leaving Congecathawhac-
haga we had fcarcely a dry garment of any kind,
or any thing to fkreen us from the inclemency of
the weather, except rocks and caves; the beft of
which were but damp and unwholefoime lodg-
ing. In fome the water was conftantly dropping
from the rock that formed the roof, which made
our place of retreat little better than the open
air; and we had not been able to make one {park
of fire (except what was fufficient to light a pipe)
from the time of our leaving the women on the
fecond inftant; it is true, in fome places there
was a little mofs, but the conftant fleet and rain
made it fo wet, as to render it as impoflible to fet
fire to it as it would be to a wet fpunge.

We had no fooner entered our places of retreat
than we regaled ourfelves with fome raw venifon
which the Indians had killed that morning;
the fmall ftock of dried provifions we took
with us when we left the women being now all
expended,

Agreeably

ly.

134
Seyi.

A JOURNEY TO THE

Agreeably to our expectations, a very fudden |

A~ and heavy gale of wind came on from the North |

July.

yth.

Weft, attended with fo great a fall of fnow, |
that the oldeft Indian in company faid, he never
faw it exceeded at any time of the year, much —
lefs in the middle of Summer. ‘The gale was foon |
over, and by degrees it became a perfect calm: —
but the flakes of {now were fo large as to fur- |
pafs all credibility, and fell in fuch vaft quan- |
tities, that though the fhower only lafted nine —
hours we were in danger of being fmothered in
our caves.

On the feventh, we had a frefh breeze at North
Weit, with fome flying fhowers of {mall rain, and
at the fame time a con{ftant warm funfhine, which
foon diffolved the greateft part of the new-fallen
fnow. Early in the mornihg we crawled out of
our holes, which were on the North fide of the
Stony Mountains, and walked about eighteen or
twenty miles to the North Weft by Weft. In
our way we crofled part of a large lake on the
ice, which was then far from being broken up.
This lake I diftinguifhed by the name of Buffalo,

‘or Mufk-Ox Lake, from the number of thofe ani-

mals that we found grazing on the margin of it;
many of which the Indians killed, but finding
them lean, only took fome of the bulls’ hides for
fhoe-foals. At night the bad weather returned,
with a ftrong gale of wind at North Eaft, and
very cold rain and fleet.

This

NORTHERN OCEAN. 135

This was the firft time we had feen any of the ,74,,
mufk-oxen fince we left the Factory. It has been a
obferved that we faw a great number of them in
my firft unfuccefsful attempt, before I had got an
hundred miles from the Factory ; and indeed I
once perceived the tracks of two of thofe animals
within nine miles of Prince of Wales’s Fort.
Great numbers of them alfo were met with in my
fecond journey to the North: feveral of which
my companions killed, particularly on the feven-
teenth of July one thoufand feven hundred and
feventy. They are alfo found at times in confi-
derable numbers near the fea-coaft of Hudfon’s
Bay, allthe way from Knapp’s Bay to Wager
Water, but are moft plentiful within the Arctic
Circle. In thofe high latitudes I have frequently
feen many herds of them in the courfe of a day’s
walk, and fome of thofe herds did not contain
lefs than eighty or an hundred head. The num-
ber of bulls is very few in proportion to the
cows; for it is rare to fee more than two or three
full-grown bulls with the largeft herd: and from
the number of the males that are found dead, the
Indians are of opinion that they kill each other
in contending for the females. In the rutting
feafon they are fo jealous of the cows, that they
run at cither man or beaft who offers to approach
them ; and have been obferved to run and bellow
even at ravens, and other large birds, which
chanced to light near them. ‘lhey delight in the
moft ftony and mountainous parts of the barren

ground,

136

A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. ground, andare feldom found at any great diftance

July.

from the woods. Though they are a beaft of great
magnitude, and apparently of a very unwieldy in-
active ftructure, yet they climb the rocks with
great eafe and agility, and are nearly as fure-
footed as a goat: like it too, they will feed on
any thing; though they feem fondeft of grafs,
yet in Winter, when that article cannot be had
in fufficient quantity, they will eat mofs, or any
other herbage they can find, as alfo the tops of
willows and the tender branches of the pine tree.
They take the bull in Auguft, and bring forth
their young the latter end of May, or beginning
of June; and they never have more than one at
a time.

‘The mufk-ox, when full grown, is as large as
the generality, or at leaft as the middling fize, of
Englifh black cattle*; but their legs, though large,
are not fo long; nor is their tail longer than that

of

* Mr. Dragge fays, in his voyage, vol. ii. p. 260, that the mufk-ox is
lower than a deer, but larger as to belly and quarters; which is very far
from the truth ; they are of the fize I have here defcribed them, and the
Indian always eftimate the flefh of a full-grown cow to be equal in quan-
tity to three deer. Iam forry alfo to be obliged to contradict my friend
Mr. Graham, who fays that the flefh of this animal is carried on fledges to
Prince of Wales’s Fort, to the amount of three or four thoufand pounds an-
nually. To the amount of near one thoufand pounds may have been
purchaféd from the natives in fome particular years, but it more frequent-
ly happens that not an ounce is brought one year out of five. In faét, it
is by no means efteemed by the company’s fervants, and of courfe no
great encouragement is given to introduce it; but if it had been otherwife,
their general fituation is fo remote trom the fettlement, that it would not
be worth the Indians while to haul it to the Fort, So that in fas, all that
has ever been carried to Prince of Wales’s Fort, has moft affuredly been
killed out of a herd that has been accidentally found within a moderate

diftance of the fettlement; perhaps an hundred miles, which is only
thought a ftep by an Indian.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

137

of a bear; and, like the tail of that animal, it al- 1771.

ways bends downward and inward, {fo that it is
entirely hid by the long hair of the rump and
hind quarters: the hunch on their fhoulders is
not large, being little more in proportion than
that of a deer: their hair is in fome parts very
long, particularly on the belly, fides, and hind
quarters; but the longeft hair about them, parti-
cularly the bulls, is under the throat, extending
from the chin to the lower part of the cheft, be-
_ tween the fore-legs; it there hangs down like a
horfe’s mane inverted, and is full as long, which
makes the animal have a moft formidable appear-
ance. It is of the hair from this part that the
Efquimaux make their mufketto wigs, and not
from the tail, as is afferted by Mr. Ellis*; their
tails, and the hair which is on them, being too
fhort for that purpofe. In Winter they are pro-
vided with a thick fine wool, or furr, that grows
at the root of the long hair, and fhields them from
the intenfe cold to which they are expofed during
that feafon; but as the Summer advances, this.
furr loofens from the fkin, and, by frequently
rolling themfelves on the ground, it works out
to the end of the hair, and in time drops off, leav-
ing little for their Summer clothing except the
long hair. This feafon is fo fhort in thofe high
latitudes, that the new fleece begins to appear,
almoft as foon as the old one drops off; fo that
by the time the cold becomes fevere, they are
again provided with a Winter-drefs.

The

* Voyage to Hudfon’s Bay, p. 232:

ay
July.

138 ' A JOURNEY TO THE

i77z, The flefh of the mufk-ox noways refembles that —
ae of the Weftern buffaio, but is more like that of
July. the moofe or elk; and the fat is of a clear white,
flightly tinged aah alight azure. The calves

and young heifers are good eating; but theflefh

of the bulls both fmells and taftes fo ftrong of |

mufk, as to render it very difagreeable: eventhe |
knife that cuts the flefh of an old bull will fmell fo
ftrong of mufk, that nothing but fcowring the
blade quite bright can remove it, and the handle
will retain the fcent for along time. Though
no part of a bull is free from this fmell, yet the
parts of generation, in particular the wrethra, are
by far the moft ftrongly impregnated. The urine
itfelf muft contain this fcent in a very great de-
gree; for the fheaths of the bull’s penis are cor-
roded with a brown gummy {fubftance, which is
nearly as high-fcented with mufk as that faid to be
produced by the civet cat; and after having been
kept for feveral years, feems not to lofe any of

its quality.

8th. On the eighth, the weather was fine and mode-
rate, though not without fome fhowers of rain.
Early in the morning we fet out, and walked eigh-
teen miles tothe Northward. The Indians kill-
ed fome deer; fo we put up by the fide of a {mall
creek, that afforded a few willows, with which

we made a fire for the firft time fince our leaving -
Congecathawhachaga ; confequently it was here
that we cooked our firft meal for a whole week.
This, as may naturally be fuppofed, was well re-
lifhed

NORTHERN OCEAN.
lifhed by all parties, the Indians as well as myfelf.

ei

1771.

And as the Sun had, in the courfe of the day, ——~

dried our clothing, in fpite of the {mall fhowers
of rain, we felt ourfelves more comfortable than
we had done fince we left the women. ‘Thie place
where we lay that night, is not far from Griz-
zled Bear Hill; which takes its name from the
numbers of thofe animals that are frequently
known to refort thither for the purpofe of bring-
ing forth their young in a cave that is found there.
The wonderful defcription which the Copper Indi-
ans gave of this place exciting the curiofity of {e-
veral of my companions as well as myfelf, we
went to view it; but on our arrival at it found
little worth remarking about it, being no more
than a high lump of earth, of a loamy quality, of
which kind there are feveral others in the fame
neighbourhood, all ftanding in the middle of a
large marfh, which makes them refemble fo many
iflands in a lake. The fides of thefe hills are
quite perpendicular; and the height of Grizzled
Bear Hill, which is the largeft, is about twenty
feet above the level ground that furrounds it.
Their fummits are covered with a thick fod of
mofs and long grafs, which in fome places pro-
jects over the edge; and as the fides are conftantly
mouldering away, and wafhing down with every
fhower of rain during the fhort Summer, they
muft in time be levelled with the marfh in which
they are fituated. At prefent thofe iflands, as I
call them, are excellent places of retreat for the

birds

July.

140
1g7.1.

een pees
July.

gth,

A JOURNEY TO THE

birds which migrate there to breed; as they can
bring forth their young in perfect fafety from
every beaft except the Quequehatch, which, from
the fharpnefs of its claws and the amazing ftrength
of its legs, is capable of afcending the moft diffi-
cult precipices.

On the fide of the hill that I went to furvey,
there is a large cave which penetrates a confidera-

ble way into the rock, and may probably have |

been the work of the bears, as we could difco-
ver vifible marks that fome of thofe beafts had
been there that Spring. ‘This, though deemed
very curious by fome of my companions, did not

appear fo to me, as it neither engaged my atten-

tion, nor raifed my furprife, half fo much as the
fight of the many hills and dry ridges on the Eaft
fide of the marfh, which are turned over like
ploughed land by thofe animals, in fearching for
ground-fquirrels, and perhaps mice, which con-
ftitute a favourite part of their food. It is fur-
prifing to fee the extent of their refearches in
queft of thofe animals, and {till more to view the
enormous ftones rolled out of their beds by the
bears on thofe occafions. At firft I thought thefe
long and deep furrows had been effected by light-
ning; but the natives aflured me they never
knew any thing of the kind happen in thofe parts,
and that it was entirely the work of the bears
feeking for their prey.

On the ninth, the weather was moderate and

cloudy, with fome flying fhowers of rain. We
fet

NORTHERN OCEAN.

14!

fet out early in the morning, and walked about ,,.,,
forty miles to the North and North by Eaft. In “~~

our way we faw plenty of deer and mufk-oxen :
feveral of the former the Indians killed, but a
fmart fhower of rain coming on juft as we were
going to put up, made the mofs fo wet as to ren-
der it impracticable to light afire. The next day
proving fine and clear, we fet out in the mor-
ning, and walked twenty miles to the North by
Weft and North North Weft; but about noon
the weather became fo hot and fultry as to ren-
der walking very difagreeable; we therefore put
up on the top of a high hill, and as the mofs was
then dry, lighted a fire, and fhould have made a
comfortable meal, and been otherwife tolerably
happy, had it not been for the mufkettoes, which
were uncommonly numerous, and their flings
almoft infufferable. The fame day Matonabbee
fent feveral Indians a-head, with orders to pro-
ceed to the Copper-mine River as faft as poffible,
and acquaint any Indians they might meet, of
our approach. By thofe Indians I alfo fent fome
fmall prefents, as the fureft means to induce any

ftrangers they found, to come to our affiftance.
The eleventh was hot and fultry, like the pre-
ceding day. In the morning we walked ten or
eleven miles to the North Weft, and then met a
Northern Indian Leader, called Oule-eye, and his
family, who were, incompany with feveral Cop-
per Indians,’ killing deer with bows and arrows
and fpears, as they crofled a little river, by the
fide

July.

roth,

11th.

142

1771.

A JOURNEY TO THE
fide of which we put up, as did alfo the above-

—~_— mentioned Indians*. ‘That afternoon I {moked

July.

rath.

13th.

my calumet of peace with thefe ftrangers, and
found them a quite different fet of people, at leaft
in principle, from thofe I had feen at Congeca-
thawhachaga: for though they had great plenty
of provifions, they neither offered me nor my
companions a mouthful, and would, if they had
been permitted, have taken the laft garment from
off my back, and robbed me of every article I
poffefied. Even my Northern companions could
not help taking notice of fuch unaccountable be-
haviour. Nothing but their poverty protected
them from being plundered by thofe of my crew ;
and had any of their women been worth no-
tice, they would moft affuredly have been preff-
ed into our fervice.

The twelfth was fo exceedingly hot and fultry,
that we did not move ; but early in the morning
of the thirteenth, after my companions had taken
what dry provifions they chofe from our unfoci-
able ftrangers, we fet out, and walked about fif-
teen or fixteen miles to the North and North by
Faft, in expectation of arriving at the Copper-
mine River that day; but when we had reached
the top of a long chain of hills, between which
we were told the river ran, we found it to be no
more than a branch of it which empties itfelf in-
to the main river about forty miles from its in-

| ; flux

* This river runs nearly North Eaft, and in all probability empties it-
felf into the Northern Ocean, not far from the Copper River.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

143

flux into the fea, At that time all the Copper ,,~,,
Indians were difpatched different ways, fo that -~

there was not one in company, who knew the
fhorteft cut to the main river. Seeing fome
woods to the Weftward, and judging that the
current of the rivulet ran that way, we concluded
that the main river lay in that direction, and was
not very remote from our prefent fituation. We
therefore directed our courfe by the fide of it,
when the Indians met with feveral very fine buck
deer, which they deftroyed; and as that part we
now traverfed afforded plenty of good fire- wood,
we put up, and cooked the moft comfortable
meal to which we had fat down for fome months.
As fuch favourable opportunities of indulging the
appetite happen but feldom, it is a general rule
with the Indians which we did not neglect, to ex-
ert every art in drefling our food which the moft
refined {kill in Indian cookery has been able to
invent, and which confifts chiefly in boiling,
broiling, and roafting : but of all the difhes cook-
ed by thofe people, a decatee, as it is called in their
language, is certainly the moft delicious, at leaft
for a chance, that can be prepared from a deer on-
ly, without any other ingredient. Itis a kind of
haggis, made with the blood, a good quantity of
fat fhred fmall, fome of the tendereft of the flefh,
together with the heart and lungs cut, or more
commonly torn into fmall fhivers; all which is
put into the ftomach, and roafted, by being fuf-
pended before the fire by a ftring. Care muft be

taken

July.

144 _ & JOURNEY TO THE

1771. taken that it does not get too much heat at firft,
iy ig as the bag would thereby be liable to be burnt, |
Jy. and the contents be let out. When it.is fuffici- |
ently done, it will emit fteam, in the fame man- ©
ner as a fowl or a joint of meat; which is as
much as to fay, Come, eat me now: and if it be
taken in time, before the blood and other contents
are too much done, it is certainly a moft delicious
morfel, even without pepper, falt, or any other
feafoning. |
After regaling ourfelves in the moft plentiful
manner, and taking a few hours reft, (for it was _
almoft impoffible to fleep for the mufkettoes,) we
once more fet forward, direéting our courfe to.
the North Weft by Weft; and after walking
about nine or ten miles, arrived at that long with.
ed-for {pot, the Copper-mine River.

CHAP.

NORTHERN OCEAN. 145

VO aie ahi Sal | Madi 8

Tranfactions at the Copper-mine River, and till we

joined all the women to the South of Cogead
Lake.

Some Copper Indians join us.—Indians fend three fpies
down the river.—Begin my furvey.—Spies return,
and give an account of five tents of E/quimaux.——In-
dians confult the beft method to fteal on them in the
night, and kill them while afleep.—Crofs the river.
—Proceedings of the Indians as they advance to-
wards the Efquimaux tents.—T he Indians begin the
maffacre while the poor Efquimaux are afleep, and

flay them all.—Much affected at the fight of one
young woman killed clofe to my feet.—The behaviour
of the Indians on this occafion.—Their brutifh treat-
ment of the dead bodies. —Seven more tents feen on
the oppofite fide of the river.—The Indians harafs
them, till they fly.to a fhoal in the river for fafety.
— Behaviour of ihe Indians after killing thofe E/qui-
maux.—Crofs the river, and proceed to the tents .
on that fide.—Plunder their tents, and deftroy their
utenfils.—Continue my furvey to the river’s mouth.
—Remarks there.—Set out on my return.—Arrive
at one of the Coppermines.—Remarks on it.— Many
attempts made to induce the Copper Indians to carry
their own goods to market.—Ob/tacles to it.—Villa-
ny and cruelty of Keelfhies to fome of thofe poor In-
dians.—Leave the Copper-mine, and walk at an.
L amazing

146

1771.
eee eee

July.
14th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

amazing rate till we join the women, by the fide of
CogeadWhoie.---Much foot-foundered.—T he appear-
ance very alarming, but foon changes for the better.
—Proceed to the fouthward, and join the remainder
of the women and children.—Many other Indians
arrive with them.

E had fcarcely arrived at the Copper-mine

River when four Copper Indians joined

us, and brought with them two canoes. They

had feen all the Indians who were fent from us at

various times, except Matonabbee’s brother and

three others that were firft difpatched from Con-
gecathawhachaga.

On my arrival here 1 was not a little furprifed
to find the river differ fo much from the defcrip-
tion which the Indians had given of it at the Fac-
tory ; for, inftead of being fo large as to be navi-
gable for fhipping, as it had been reprefented by
them, it was at that part fcarcely navigable for an
Indian canoe, being no more than one hundred
and eighty yards wide, every where full of fhoals,
and no lefs than three falls were in fight at firft view.

Near the water’s edge there is fome wood; but
not one tree grows on or near the top of the hills
between which the river runs. ‘There appears to
have been formerly a much greater quantity than
there is at prefent; but the trees feem to have
been fet on fire fome years ago, and, in confe-
quence, there is at prefent ten fticks lying on the

ground, for one green one which is growing be-
fide

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fide them. The whole timber appears to have
been, even in its greateft profperity, of fo crook-
ed and dwarfifh a growth as to render it of little
ufe for any purpole but fire-wood.

Soon after our arrival at the river-fide, three
Indians were fent off as {pies, in order to fee if any
Efquimaux were inhabiting the river-fide between
us and the fea. After walking about three quar-
ters of a mile by the fide of the river, we put up,
when moft of the Indians went a hunting, and
killed feveral mufk-oxen and fome deer. They
were employed all the remainder of the day and
night in fplitting and drying the meat by the fire.
As we were not then in want of provifions, and
as deer and other animals were fo plentiful, that
each day’s journey might have provided for it-
felf, I was at a lofs to account for this unufal ceco-
nomy of my companions; but was foon inform-
ed, that thofe preparations were made witha view
to have victuals enough ready-cooked to ferve us
to the river’s mouth, without being obliged to
kill any in our way, as the report of the guns,
and the fmoke of the fires, would be liable to
alarm the natives, if any fhould be near at hand,
and give them an opportunity of efcaping.

Early in the morning of the fifteenth, we fet
out, when limmediately began my furvey, which
I continued about ten miles down the river, till
heavy rain coming on we were obliged to put up;
and the place where we lay that night was the

end, or edge of the woods, the whole {pace be-
L 2 tween

15th,

36th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

tween it and the fea being entirely barren hills
and wide open marfhes. In the courfe of this
day’s furvey, I found the river as full of fhoals as —
the part which 1 had feen before; and in many
places it was fo greatly diminifhed in its width,

‘that in our way we pafled by two more capital falls.

Early in the morning of the fixteenth, the wea-
ther being fine and pleafant, I again proceed-
ed with my furvey, and continued it for ten ©
miles farther down the river; but {till found it
the fame as before, being every where full of falls
and fhoals. At this time (it being about noon)

the three men who had been {ent as {pies met us

on their return, and informed my companions
that five tents of Efquimaux were on the weft
fide of the river. ‘The fituation, they faid, was
very convenient for furprizing them; and, ac-.
cording to their account, I judged it to be about
twelve miles from the place we met the fpies.
When the Indians received this intelligence, no
farther attendance or attention was paid to my
furvey, but their whole thoughts were immedi-
ately engaged in planning the beft method of at-

tack, and how they might fteal on the poor Ef. |
quimaux the enfuing ane and kill them all |
while afleep. To accomplith this bloody defign |
more effectually, the Indians thought it neceflary |
to crofs the river as foon as poffible; and, by the |
account of the {pies, it appeared that no part was
more convenient for the purpofe than that where |
we had met them, it pane there very fmooth,

‘and |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

149

and at a confiderable diftance from any fall. Ac- i771,

cordingly, after the Indians had put all their guns,
{pears, targets, &c. in good order, we crofled the
river, which took up fome time.

When we arrived on the Weft fide of the river,
each painted the front of his target or fhield ;

fome with the figure of the Sun, others with that”

of the Moon, feveral with different kinds of birds
and beafts of prey, and many with the images of
imaginary beings, which, according to their filly
notions, are the inhabitants of the different ele-
ments, Earth, Sea, Air, &c.

On enquiring the reafon of their doing fo, I
learned that each man painted his fhield with the

image of that being on which he relied moft for |

fuccefs in the intended engagement. Some were
contented with a fingle reprefentation; while
others, doubtful, as I fuppofe, of the quality and
power of any fingle being, had their fhields cover-
ed to the very margin with a group of hicrogly-
phics quite unintelligible to every one except the
painter. Indeed, from the hurry in which this
bufinefs was neceflarily done, the want of every
colour but red and black, and the deficiency of
fkill in the artift, moft of thofe paintings had more
the appearance of a number of accidental blotch-
es, than “ of any thing that is on the earth, or in
‘‘ the water under the earth ;” and though fome
few of them conveyed a tolerable idea of the
thing intended, yet even thefe were many degrees
worfe than our country fignpaintings in England.

When

july.

150

1771.

A JOURNEY TO THE

When this piece of fuperftition was completed,

~v— we began to advance towards the Efquimaux

July.

tents; but were very careful to avoid crofling any

hills, or talking loud, for fear of being feen or

overheard by the inhabitants ; by which means

the diftance was not only much greater than it
otherwife would have been, but, for the fake of

keeping in the loweft grounds, we were obliged

to walk through entire fwamps of ftiff marly clay,

fometimes up to the knees. Our courfe, howe-

ver, on this occafion, though very ferpentine, was

not altogether fo remote from the river as entire-

ly to exclude me from a view of it the whole way:

on the contrary, feveral times (according to the’
fituation of the ground) we advanced fo near it,

as to give mean opportunity of convincing my-

felf that it was as unnavigable as it was in thofe

parts which I had furveyed before, and which

entirely correfponded with the accounts given of
it by the {pies.

It is perhaps worth remarking, that my crew,
though an undifciplined rabble, and by no means
accuftomed to war or command, feemingly a¢ted
on this horrid occafion with the utmoft uniformi-
ty of fentiment. ‘Ihere was not among them the
leaft altercation or feparate apinion; all were
united in the general caufe, and as ready to fol-
low where Matonabbee led, as he appeared to be
ready to lead, according to the advice of an old
Copper Indian, who had joined us on our firft ar-
rival at the river where this bloody bufinefs was
firft propofed.

Never

NORTHERN OCEAN. VSI

Never was reciprocity of intereft more general- 1771,
ly regarded among a number of people, than it oS
was on the prefent occafion by my crew, for not \
one was a moment in want of any thing that
another could fpare; and if ever the fpirit of
difinterefted friendfhip expanded the heart of a
Northern Indian, it was here exhibited in the
molt extenfive meaning of the word. Property
of every kind that could be of general ufe now
ceafed to be private, and every one who had any
thing which came under that defcription, feemed
proud of an opportunity of giving it, or lending
it to thofe who had none, or were moft in want
of it.

The number of my crew was fo much greater
than that which five tents could contain, and the
warlike manner in which they were equipped fo
greatly fuperior to what could be expected of the
poor Efquimaux, that no lefs than a total mafla-
cre of every one of them was likely to be the cafe,
unlefs Providence fhould work a miracle for their
deliverance.

The land was fo fituated that we walked under
cover of the rocks and hills till we were within
two hundred yards of the tents. There we lay
in ambufh for fome time, watching the motions
of the Efquimaux ; and here the Indians would
have advifed me to ftay till the fight was over,
but to this I could by no means confent; for I
confidered that when the Efquimaux came to be
furprifed, they would try every way to efcape,

and

152

A JOURNEY TO THE

v1, and if they found me alone, not knowing me
‘~~ from an enemy, they would probably proceed to

July.

violence againft me when no perfon was near to
affift. For this reafon I determined to accompa-
ny them, telling them at the fame time, that I
would not have any hand in the murder they were
about to commit, unlefs I found it neceflary for .
my own fafety. The Indians were not difpleafed
at this propofal ; one of them immediately fixed
me a fpear, and another lent me a broad bayonet
for my protection, but at that time] could not be
provided witha target; nor did] want to be en-
cumbered with fuch an unneceffary piece of
lumber. .

While we lay in ambufh, the Indians perform- |
ed the lait ceremonies which were thought necef-
fary before the engagement. Thefe chiefly con-
fifted in painting their faces; fome all black,
fome all red, and others with a mixture of the .
two; and to prevent their hair from blowing in-
to their cyes, it was either tied before and
behind, and on both fides, orelfe cut fhort all
round. The next thing they confidered was to _
make themfelves as light as poffible for running ;
which they did, by pulling off their ftockings,
and either cutting off the fleeves of their jackets,
or rolling them up clofe to their arm-pits; and
though the mufkettoes at that time were fo nu-
merous as to furpafs all credibility, yet fome of
the Indians aCtually pulled off their jackets and

entered

NORTHERN OCEAN, 153

entered the lifts quite naked, except their breech- 1771.
‘cloths and fhoes. Fearing I might have occafion
to run with the reft, I thought it alfo advifeable to
pull off my ftockings and cap, and to tie my hair
as clofe up as poflible.

By the time the Indians had made themfelves
. thus completely frightful, it was near one o’clock
in the morning of the feventeenth; when find- 1th.
ing all the Efquimaux quiet in their tents, they
rufhed forth from their ambuicade, and fell on
the poor unfufpecting creatures, unperceived till
clofe to the very eves of the tents, when they
foon began the bloody maffadre, while I ftood
neuter in the rear.

In a few feconds the horrible {cene commenced 3
it was fhocking beyond defcription ; the poor un.
happy victims were furprifed in the midf of their
fleep, and had neither time nor power to make
any refiftance ; men, women, and children, in all
upwards of twenty, ran out of their tents ftark
naked, and endeavoured to make their efcape ;
but the Indians having pofleffion of all the land-
fide, to no place could they fly for fhelter. One
alternative only remained, that of jumping into
the river; but, as none of them attempted it,
they all fell a facrifice to Indian barbarity !

The fhrieks and groans of the poor expiring
wretches were truly dreadful; and my horror
was much increafed at feeing a young girl, fee-
mingly about eighteen years of age, killed fo near
me, that when the firft {pear was ftuck into her

fide

July.

154

1771, fide the fell down at my feet, and twifted round |
Uru my legs, fo that it was with difficulty that I could |
difengage myfelf from her dying grafps. As _
two Indian men purfued this unfortunate victim, |
I folicited very hard for her life; but the murder- |
ers made no reply ull they had ftuck both their |
fpears through her body, and transfixed her to |
the ground. ‘They then looked me fternly in the |
face, and began to ridicule me, by afking if I

July.

‘A JOURNEY TO THE

wanted an Efquimaux wife; and paid not the

{malleft regard to the fhrieks and agony of the >

poor wretch, who was twining round their {pears
like an eel! Indeed, after receiving much abufive
language from them on the occafion, 1 was at
length obliged to defire that they would be more
expeditious in difpatching their victim out of her

mifery, otherwife I fhould be obliged, out of pity, |
to aflift in the friendly office af putting anendto —

the exiftence of a fellow-creature who was fo cru-

elly wounded. Qn this requeft being made, one |
of the Indians haittily drew his fpear from the |

place where it was firft lodged, and pierced it

through her breaft near the heart. ‘The love of |

life, however, even in this maft miferable ftate,
was fo predominant, that though this might juft-
ly be called the moft merciful act that could be

done for the poor creature, it feemed to be un-

welcome, for though much exhaufted by pain and
lofs of blood, fhe made feveral efforts to ward off
the friendly blow. My fituation and the terror
ef my mind at beholding this butchery, cannot

eafily

—-— -— —

NORTHERN OCEAN;

eafily be conceived, much lefs defcribed ; though

155)
1771.

I fummed up all the fortitude I was matter of en

on the occafion, it was with difficulty that I could
refrain from tears; and I am confident that my
features mutt have feelingly exprefled how fincere-
ly I was affected at the barbarous fcene I then
witnefled ; even at this hour I cannot refle& on
the tranfactions of that horrid day without fhed-
ding tears.

_ The bratifh manner in which thefe favages ufed
the bodies they had fo cruelly bereaved of life
was fo fhocking, that it would be indecent to
defcribe it; particularly their curiofity in exa-
mining, and the remarks they made, on the for-
mation of the women; which, they pretended
to fay, differed materially from that of their own.
For my own part I muft acknowledge, that how-
ever favourable the opportunity for determining
that point might have been, yet my thoughts at
the time were too much agitated to admit of any
fuch remarks; and I firmly believe, that had
there actually been as much difference between
them as there is faid to be between the Hottentots
and thofe of Europe, it would not have been in
my power to have marked the diftinction. I
have reafon to think, however, that there is no
ground for the aflertion; and really believe that
the declaration of the Indians on this occafion,
was utterly void of truth, and proceeded only
from the implacable hatred they bore to the whole

“tribe of people of whom I am fpeaking.
When

July.

156
1771.

july.

A JOURNEY TO THE

When the Indians had Completed the murder
of the poor Efquimaux, feven other tents on the
Eaft fide the river immediately engaged their at-
tention: very luckily, however, our canoes and
baggage had been left at a little diftance up the
river, fo that they had no way of crofling to get
at them. ‘The river at this part being little more
than eighty yards wide, they began firing at them
from the Weil fide. The poor Efquimaux on the
oppofite fhore, though all up in arms, did not at-
tempt to abandon their tents; and they were fo
unacquainted with the nature of fire-arms, that
when the bullets ftruck the ground, they ran in
crowds to fee what was fent them, and feemed
anxious to examine all the pieces of lead which
they found flattened againft the rocks. At length |
one of the Efquimaux men was fhot in the calf of
his leg, which put them in great confufion. They
all immediately embarked in their little canoes,
and paddled to a fhoal in the middle of the river,
which being fomewhat more than a gun-fhot
from any part of the fhore, put them out of the |
reach of our barbarians. |

When the favages difcovered that the furviv-
ing Efquimaux had gained the fhore above men- |
tioned, the Northern Indians began to plunder |
the tents of the deceafed of all the copper uten- |
fils they could find; fuch as hatchets, bayonets, |
knives, &c. after which they aflembled on thetop |
of an adjacent high hili, and ftanding all ina |
clutter, fo as to form a folid circle, with their |

fpears |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

157

{pears erect in the air, gave many thouts of viclo- 771.
ry, conftantly clafhing their {pears againft each Ly

other, and frequently calling out tima/ tima*! by
way of derifion to the poor furviving Efquimaux,
who were ftanding on the fhoal almoft knee-deep
inwater. After parading the hill for fome time,
it was agreed to return up the river to the place
where we had left our canoes and baggage, which
was about half a mile diflant, and then to crofs
the river again and plunder the feven tents on
the Eaft fide. This refolution was immediately
put in force; and as ferrying acrofs with only
three or four canoes t took a confiderable time,
and as we were, from the crookednefs of the
river and the form of the land, entirely under
cover, feveral of the poor furviving Efquimaux,
thinking probably that we were gone about our
bufinefs, and meant to trouble them no more,
had returned from the fhoal to their habitations.
When we approached their tents, which we did
under cover of the rocks, we found them buiily
employed tying up bundles. Thefe the Indians
feized with their ufual ferocity ; on which, the
Efquimaux having their canoes lying ready in
the water, -immediately embarked, and all of
them got fafe to the former fhoal, except an old
man, who was fo intent on collecting his things,

that

* Tima in the Efquimaux language is a friendly word fimilar to what
cheer 2

{ When the fifteen Indians turned back to the Stony Mountains they
took two or three canoes with them ; fome of our crew that were fent 4-

head as meffengers had not yet returned, which occafioned the number of
our canoes to be fo fmall.

july.

158

A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. that the Indians coming upon him before he
\v~ could reach his canoe, he fell a facrifice to their

July.

fury: I verily believe not lefs than twenty had a
hand in his death, as his whole body was like a |
cullender. Itis here neceflary to obferve that the |
{pies when on the look-out, could not fee thefe
feven tents, though clofe under them, as the bank,
on which they ftood, ftretched over them.

It ought to have been mentioned in its proper
place, that in making our retreat up the river,
after killing the Efquimaux on the Weft fide, we
faw an old woman fitting by the fide of the water,
killing falmon, which lay at the foot of the fall
as thick as a fhoal of herrings. Whether from
the noife of the fall, or a natural defect in the old
woman’s hearing, it is hard to determine, but
certain it is, fhe had no knowledge of the tragi-
cal fcene which had been fo lately tranfacted at the
tents, though fhe was not more than two hun-
dred yards from the place. When we firft per-
ceived her, fhe feemed perfectly at eafe, and was
entirely furrounded with the produce of her la-
bour. From her manner of behaviour, and the
appearance of her eyes, which were as red as
blood, it is more than probable that her fight was
not very good; for fhe fcarcely difcerned that
the Indians were enemies, till they were within
twice the length of their fpearsof her. It wasin
vain that fhe attempted to fly, for the wretches
of my crew transfixed her to the ground ina few

feconds, and butchered her in the moft favage
manner.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

159

manner. There was fcarcelya manamong them 1771.

who had not a thruft at her with hisfpear; and
many in doing this, aimed at torture, rather
than immediate death, as they not only poked out
her eyes, but flabbed her in many parts very re-
mote from thofe which are vital.

It may appear ftrange, that a perfon fuppofed to
be almoft blind fhould be employed in the bufi-
nefs of fifhing, and particularly with any degree
of fuccefs ; but when the multitude of fifh is taken
into the account, the wonder will ceafe. Indeed
they were fo numerous at the foot of the fall,
that when alight pole, armed with a few fpikes,
which was the inftrument the old woman ufed,
was put under water, and hauled up with a jerk,
it was fcarcely poffible to mifs them. Some of
my Indians tried the method, for curiofity, with
the old woman’s ftaff, and feldom got lefs than
two at a jerk, fometimes three or four. Thofe
fifth, though very fine, and beautifully red, are but
fmall, feldom weighing more (as near as I could
judge) than fix or feven pounds, and in general

much lefs. Their numbers at this place were al-

moft incredible, perhaps equal to any thing that
is related of the falmon in Kamfchatka, or any
other part of the world. It does not appear that
the Efquimaux have any other method of catch-
ing the fifh, unlefs it be by {pears and darts; for
no appearance of nets were difcovered either at
their tents, or on any part of the fhore. This is

the cafe with all the Ef{quimaux on the Weft fide
of

July.

160

A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. of Hudfon’s Bay; fpearing in Summer, and ang. :
t-—~———' ling in Winter, are the only methods they have |

July.

yet devifed to catch fifh, though at times their |

whole dependance for fupport is on that article*.
When

* When the Efquimaux who refide near Churchill River travel in Win-
ter, itis always from lake to lake, or from river to river, where they have
formed magazines of provifions, and heaps of mofs for firing. As fome
of thofe places are at a confiderable diftance from each other, and fome of
the lakes of confiderable width, they frequently pitch their tents on the” |
ice, and inftead of having a fire, which the feverity of the climate fo much
requires, they cut holes in the ice within their tents, and there fit and
angle for fifh; if they meet with any fuccefs, the fifh are eaten alive out of -
the water ; and when they are thirfty, water, their ufual beverage, is at
hand.

When L firft entered into the employment of the Hudfon’s Bay Compa-
ny, it was as Mate of one of their floops which was employed in trading
with the Efquimaux; I had therefore frequent opportunities of obferving
the miferable manner in which thofe people live. In the courfe of our.
trade with them we frequently purchafed feveral feal-fkin bags, which we
fuppofed were full of oil; but on opening them have fometimes found
great quantities of venifon, feals, and fea-horfe paws, as well as falmon;
and as thefe were of noufe to us, we always returned them to the Indians,
who eagerly devoured them, though fome of the articles had been perhaps
a whole year in that ftate; and they feemed to exult greatly in having fo
over-reached us in the way of trade, as to have fometimes one third of.
their bargain returned.

This method of preferving their food, though it effe€tually guards it from ©
the external air, and from the flies, does not prevent putrefaétion entire- ~
ly, though it renders its progrefs very flow. Pure train oil is of fucha
quality that it never freezes folid in the coldeft Winters; a happy circum--
{tance for thofe people, who are condemned to live in the moft rigorous
climate without the affiftance of fire. While thefe magazines laft, they —
have nothing more to do when hunger affails them, but to open one of the
bags, take out a fide of venifon, a few feals, fea-horfe paws, or fome half=_
rotten falmon, and without any preparation, fit down and make a meal;
and the lake or river by which they pitch their tent, affords them water,
which is their conftant drink. Befides the extraordinary food already men-
tioned, they have feveral other difhes equally difeufting to an European
palate; I will only mention one, as it was more frequently part of their
repaft when I yifited their tents, than any other, except fith,. The dith I

- allude

NORTHERN OCEAN. 161

‘When the Indians had plundered the feven 1771.
tents of all the copper utenfils, which feemed the i
only things worth their notice, they threw all the
tents and tent-poles into the river, defiroyed a
vaft quantity of dried falmon, mufk-oxcen flefh,
and other provifions ; broke all the ftone kettles;

; M and

allude to, is made of the raw liver of a deer, cut in fmall pieces of about an
inch fquare, and mixed up with the contents of the ftomach of the fame
animal; and the farther digeftion has taken place, the better it is fuited to
their tafte. It isimpoffible to defcribe or conceive the pleafure they feem
to enjoy when eating fuch unaccountable food: nay, 1 have even feen
them eat whofe handfuls of maggots that were produced in meat by fly-
blows; anditis their conftant cuftom, when their nofes bleed by any ac-
cident, to lick their blood into their mouths. and fwallow it. Indeed, if we
confider the inhofpitable part of the globe they ave deftined to inhabit,
and the great diftreffes to which they are frequently driven by hunger in
confequence of it, we fhall no longer be furprized at finding they can relith
any thing in common with the meaneft of the animal creation, but rather
_ admire the wifdom and kindnefs of Providence in forming the palates and
powers of all creatures in facha manner as is beft adapted to the food, cli-
“mate, and every other circumftance which may be incident to their refpec-
tive fituations.

» Itis no lefs true, that thefe people, when I firft knew them, would not
eat any of our provifions, fugar, raifins, figs, or even bread; for thongh
fome of them would put a bit of it into their mouths, they foon {pit it out
again witl: evident marks of diflike; fo that they had no greater relifh for
our food than we had for theirs, At prefent, however, they will eat any
part of our provifions, either frefh or falted ; and fome of them wil! drink
a draft of porter, or a little brandy and water; and they are now fo far
civilized, and attached to the Englifh, that Lam perfuaded any of the
company’s fervants who could habituate themfelves to their diet and man-
ner of life, might now live as fecure under their protection, as under that
of any of the tribes of Indians who border on Hudfon’s Bay.

They live ina ftate of perfect freedom; no one apparently claiming the
fuperiority over, or acknowledging the lea(t fubordination to another, ex-
cept what is cue from children to their parents,.or fuch of thei: kin as take
care of them when they are young and incapable of providing for them-
felves. There is, however, reafon to:think that; when grown up to man-
hood, they pay fome attention to the advice of the old men, on account of

their experience.

162 A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. 2nd, in faét, did all the mifchief they poffibly
“a7 could to diftrefs the poor creatures they could not —
, murder, and who were ftanding on the fhoal be-
fore mentioned, obliged to be woeful fpectators of

their great, or perhaps irreparable lofs.

After the Indians had completed this piece of
wantonnefs we fat down, and made a good meal
of frefh falmon which were as numerous at the

place where we now refted, as they were on the
Wet fide of the river. When we had finithed
our meal, which was the firft we had enjoyed for
many hours, the Indians told me that they were
again ready to affift me in making an end of my —
furvey. It was then about five o’clock in the .
x7th.. morning of the feventeenth, the fea being in fight
from the North Weft by Weft to the North Eaft,
about eight miles diftant. I therefore fet inftant-
ly about commencing my furvey, and purfued it
to the mouth of the river, which I found all the
way fo full of fhoals and falls that it was not navi-
gable even for a boat, and that it emptied itfelf
into the fea over a ridge or bar. The tide was
then out; but I judged from the marks which I
faw on the edge of the ice, that it flowed about
twelve or fourteen feet, which will only reach a
little way within the river’s mouth. The tide

being out, the water in the river was perfectly
frefh; bu I am certain of its being the fea, or
fome branch of it, by the quantity of whalebone
and feal-{kins which the Efquimaux had at their
tents, and alfo by the number of feals which I

faw

NORTHERN OCEAN.

163

faw onthe ice. At the mouth of the river, the 1771.
fea is full of iflands and fhoals, as far as I could ——~

fee with the affiftance of a good pocket telefcope.
The ice was not then broke up, but was melted
away for about three quarters of a mile from the
main fhore, and to a little diftance round the
iflands and fhoals.

By the time I had completed this furvey, it was
about one in the morning of the eighteenth ; but
in thofe high latitudes, and at this feafon of the
year, the Sun is always at a good height above
the horizon, fo that we had-not only day-light,
but fun-fhine the whole night: a thick fog and
drizzling rain then came on, and finding that
neither the river nor fea were likely to be of any
ufe, I did not think it worth while to wait for fair
weather to determine the latitude exaétly by an
obfervation ; but by the extraordinary care |
took in obferving the courfes and diftances when
1 walked from Congecathawhachaga where I had
two good obfervations, the latitude may be de-
pended upon within twenty miles at the utmoft.
For the fake of form however, after having had
fome confultation with the Indians, I erected a
mark, and took pofleflion of the coaft, on behalf
of the Hudfon’s Bay Company.

Having finifhed this bufinefs, we fet out on our
return, and walked about twelve miles to the
South by Eaft, when we ftopped and took a little
fleep, which was the firft time that any of us had
clofed our eyes from the fifteenth inftant, and it

M 2 was

July.

18th.

164.
1771.

A JOURNEY TO THE

was now fix o’clock in the morning of the eigh-

“—--—J_ teenth. _Here the Indians killed a mufk-ox, but

July.

the mofs being very wet, we could not makea ©
fire, fo that we were obliged to eat the meat raw,
which wasintolerable, as it happened to be an old
beait.

Before I proceed farther on my return, it may —
not be improper to give fome account of the river,
and the country adjacent; its productions, and
the animals which conftantly inhabit thofe drea-
ry regions, as well as thofe that only migrate thi-
ther in Summer, in order to breed and rear their
young, unmolefted by man. That I may do
this to better purpofe, it will be neceflary to go
back to the place where I firft came to the river,
which was about forty miles from its mouth,

Befide the ftunted pines already mentioned,
there are fome tufts of dwarf willows; plenty of
Wifhacumpuckey, (as the Englith call it, and
which they ufe as tea); fome jackafheypuck,
which the natives ufe as tobacco; anda few cran-
berry and heathberry bufhes; b but not the leat
appearance of any fruit. |

- The woods grow gradualiy thinner and fmaller
as you approach the fea; and the Jaft little tuft
of pines that I faw is about thirty miles from the
mouth of the river, fo that we meet with no-
thing between that fpot and the fea-fide but bar-
ren hills and marfhes.

The general courfe of the river is about North
by Eaft; but in fome places it is very crooked,

and

COPPER MINE RIVER.
BY lavveyed ty t’
SAMUEL HEARNE |

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Vo Wom ap bake Sthe
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es erence a
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S

NORTHERN OCEAN.

165

and its breadth varies from twenty yards to four ,74,,
or five hundred. The banks are in general a folid a
uly.

rock, both fides of which correfpond fo exactly
with each other, as to leave no doubt that the
channel of the river has been caufed by fome ter-
rible convulfion of nature; and the flream is fup-
plied by a variety of little rivulets, that rufh down
the fides of the hills, occafioned chiefly by the
melting of the fhow. Some of the Indians fay,
that this river takes its rife from the North Weft
fide of Large White Stone Lake, which is at the
diftance of near three hundred miles on a ftraight
line; but I can fcarcely think that is the cafe,
unlefs there be many intervening lakes, which
- are fupplied by the vaft quantity of water that is
collected in fo great an extent of hilly and moun-
tainous country : for were it otherwife, | fhould
imagine that the multitude of {mall rivers, which
muft empty themfelves into the main ftream in
the courfe of fo great a diftance, would have form-
ed a much deeper and ftronger current than I dif.
covered, and occafioned an annual deluge at the
breaking up of the ice in the Spring, of which
there was not the leaft appearance, except at Bloo-
dy Fall, where the river was contracted to the
breadth of about twenty yards. It was at the
foot of this fall that my Indians killed the Efqui-
maux ; which was the reafon why I diftinguifhed
it by that appellation. From this fall, which is
about eight miles from the {ea-fide, there are very
few hills, and thofe not high. The land between

them

166

A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. themis a ftiff loam and clay, which, in fome

“uh” parts, produces patches of pretty good grafs, and

in others tallith dwarf willows: at the foot of the
hills alfo there is plenty of fine {curvy-grafs.

The Efquimaux at this river are but low in fta-
fture, none exceeding the middle fize, and though
broad fet, are neither well-made nor {trong bodi-
ed. Their complexion is of a dirty copper colour ;
fome of the women, however, are more fair and
ruddy. Their drefs much refembles that of the
Greenlanders in Davis’s Straits, except the wo-
men’s boots, which are not ftiffened out with
whalebone, and the tails of their jackets are not
more than a foot long.

Their arms and fifhing-tackle are bows and ar-

rows, {pears, lances, darts, &c. which exaétly re- ~

femble thofe made ufe of by the Efquimaux in
Hudfon’s Straits, and which have been well de-
{cribed by Crantz*; but, for want of good edge-
tools, are far inferior to them in workmanfhip.
Their arrows are either fhod with a trianglar piece
of black ftone, like flate, or a piece of copper;
but moft commonly the former.

The body of their canoes is on the fame con- ©

ftruction as that of the other Efquimaux; and

there is no unneceflary prow-projection beyond
the body of the veffel; thefe, like their arms and
other utenfils, are, for the want of better tools,
by no means fo neat as thole I have feen in Hud-
fon’s Bay and Straits. The double-bladed pad-

* See Hift. of Greenland, vol, 1. p. 132—r56.

dle ~

NORTHERN OCEAN.

167

die is in univerfal ufe among all the tribes of this 1775.

people.

Their tents are made of parchment deer-fkins
in the hair, and are pitched in a circular form,
the fame as thofe of the Efquimaux in Hudfon’s
Bay. Thefe tents are undoubtedly no more than
their Summer habitations, for I faw the remains
of two miferable hovels, which, from the fituati-
on, the ftructure, and the vaft quantity of bones,
old fhoes, {craps of fkins, and other rubbifh lying
near them, had certainly been fome of their
Winter retreats. Thefe houfes were fituated on
the South fide of a hill; one half of them were
under-ground, and the upper parts clofely fet
round with poles, meeting at the top in a conical
form, like their fummer-houfes or tents. Thefe
tents when inhabited, had undoubtedly been co-
vered with fkins; and in Winter entirely over-
{pread with the {fnow-drift, which muft have great-
ly contributed to their warmth. They were fo
{mall, that they did not contain more than fix or
eight perfons each; and even that number of any
other people would have found them but mifera-
ble habitations.

Their houfehold furniture chiefly confifts of
ftone kettles, and wooden troughs of various
fizes ; alfo difhes, {coops, and fpoons, made of the
buffalo or mufk-ox horns. Their kettles are
formed of a pepper and falt coloured ftone; and
though the texture appears to be very coarfe, and

as porous as a drip-ftone, yet they are perfectly
tight,

July.

168 A JOURNEY TO THE *|
“791, tight, and will found as clear as a china bowl.
in>-~ Some of thofe kettles are fo large as to be capable
Jy. of containing five or fix gallons; and though it
is impoffible thefe poor people can perform this
arduous work with any other tools than harder |
ftones, yet they are by far fuperior to any that |
1 had ever feen in Hudfon’s Bay; every one of
them being ornamented with neat mouldings
round the rim, and fome of the large ones with.
a kind of flute-work at each corner. In fhape
they were a long fquare, fomething wider at the
top than bottom, like a knife-tray, and ftrong
handles of the folid ftone were left at each end to
lift them up.

Their hatchets are made of a thick lump of cop-
per, about five or fix inches long, and from one
and a half to two inches fquare; they are bevill-
ed away at one end like a mortice-chiffel. This
is lafhed into the end of a piece of wood about _
twelve or fourteen inches long, in fuch a manner
as to act like an adze: in general they are applied
to the wood like a chiffel, and driven in witha
heavy club, inftead of a mallet. Neither the ©
weight of the tool nor the fharpnefs of the metal
will admit of their being handled either as adze
or axe, with any degree of fuccefs.

The men’s bayonets and women’s knives are
alfo made of copper ; the former are in fhape like
the ace of {pades, with the handle of deers horn
a foot long, and the latter exactly refemble thofe
defcribed by Crantz. Samples of both thefe im- —

plements

’ NORTHERN OCEAN.

169

plements I formerly fent home to James Fitzge- y>>y,
rald, Efq. then one of the Hudfon’s Bay Coim- a

mittee.

Among all the fpoils of the twelve tents which
my companions plundered, only two {mall pieces
of iron were found; one of which was about an
inch anda half long, and three eighths of an inch
broad, made into a woman’s knife; the other was
barely an inch long, and a quarter of an inch wide,
“This laft was rivetted into a piece of ivory, fo as
to form a man’s knife, known in Hudfon’s Bay
by the name of Mokeaioggan, and is the only in-
ftrument ufed by them in fhaping all their wood-
work.

Thofe people had a fine and numerous breed of
dogs, with fharp erect ears, fharp nofes, bufhy
tails, &c. exaétly like thofe feen among the Ef-
quimaux in Hudfon’s Bay and Straits. They were
all tethered to ftones, to prevent them, as I fup-
pofe, from eating the fifh that were {pread all over
the rocks to dry. I do not recollect that my
companions killed or hurt one of thofe animals ;
but after we had left the tents, they often wifh-
ed they had taken fome of thofe fine dogs with
them.

Though the drefs, canoes, utenfils, and many
other articles belonging to thefe people, are very
fimilar to thofe of Hudfon’s Bay, yct there is one
cuflom that prevails among them—namely, that
of the men having all the hair of their heads pull-
ed out by the roots—which pronounces them to

be

170
177t.

A JOURNEY TO THE
be of a different tribe from any hitherto feen ei-

Wu ~— ther on the coaft of Labradore, Hudfon’s Bay, or |

June.

Davis’s Straits. The women wore their hair at full
length, and exaétly in the fame ftile as all the
other Efquimaux women do whom I have feen.
When at the fea-fide, (at the mouth of the Cop-:
per River,) befides feeing many feals on the ice, —
I alfo obferved feveral flocks of fea-fowl flying
about the fhores; fuch as, gulls black-heads,
loons, old wives, ha-ha-wie’s, dunter geefe, arétic
gulls, and willicks. In the adjacent ponds alfo
were fome fwans and geefe in a moulting ftate,
and in the marfhes fome curlews and plover;
plenty of hawks-eyes, (i. e. the green plover,) —
and fome yellow-legs; alfo feveral other {mall
birds, that vifit thofe Northern parts in the Spring
to breed and moult, and which doubtlefs return
Southward as the fall advances. My reafon for
this conjecture is founded on a certain knowledge
that all thofe birds migrate in Hudfon’s Bay; and
it is but reafonable to think that they are lefs ca-
pable of withftanding the rigour of fuch a long
and cold Winter as they mutft neceflarily experi-
encein acountry which is fo many degrees with-

in the Ar@tic Circle, as that is where I now |

faw them.
That the mufk-oxen, deer, bears, wolves, wol-
varines, foxes, Alpine hares, white owls, ravens,
partridges, ground-fquirrels, common fquirrels,
ermins, mice, &c. are the conftant inhabitants of
thofe parts, is not to be doubted. In many places,
by the fides of the hills, where the fnow lay to a
great

NORTHERN OCEAN.
great’ depth, the dung of the mufk-oxen and

deer was lying in fuch long and continued heaps, masiras
J

as clearly to point out that thofe places had been
their much-frequented paths during the preced-
ing Winter. There were alfo many other fimilar
appearances on the hills, and other parts, where
the fnow was entirely thawed away, without any
print of a foot being vifible in the mofs; which
is a certain proof that thefe long ridges of dung
muft have been dropped in the {now as the beafts
were pafling and repafling over it in the Winter.
There are likewife fimilar proofs that the Alpine
hare and the partridge do not migrate, but remain
there the whole year: the latter we found in
confiderable flocks among the tufts of willows
which grow near the fea.

It is perhaps not generally known, even to the
curious, therefore may not be unworthy of obfer-
vation, ‘that the dung of the mufk-ox, though fo
Jarge an animal, is not larger, and at the fame time
fo near the fhape and colour of that of the Alpine
hare, that the difference is not eafily diftinguifh-
ed but by the natives, though in general the quan-
tity may lead to a difcovery of the animal to
which it belongs.

I did not fee any birds peculiar to thofe parts,
except what the Copper Indians call the ‘“* Alarm
“* Bird,” or Bird of Warning.’’ In fize and co-
lour it refembles a Cobadekoock, and is of the
owl genus. The name is faid to be well adapted
to its qualities; for when it perceives any people,

or

17

177.

uly.

172 A JOURNEY TO THE

i771. or beaft, it diretts its way towards them imme-
— diately, and after hovering over them fome |
' time, flies round them in circles, or goes a-head —
in the fame direction in which they walk. They
repeat their vifits frequently ; and if they fee any
other moving objects, fly alternately from one
party to the other, hover over them for fome time,
and make aloud {creaming noife, like the crying
of a child, In this manner they are faid fome-
times to follow paflengers a whole day. The Cop-
per Indians put. great confidence in thofe birds,
and fay they are frequently apprized by them of
the approach of ftrangers, and condutted by
them to herds of deer and mufk-oxen ; which,
without their affiftance, in all probability, they ne-
ver could have found. ne
The Efquimaux feem not to have imbibed the
fame opinion of thofe birds; for if they had, they
muft have been apprized of our approach toward
their tents, becaufe all the time the Indians lay in |
ambufh, (before they began the maffacre,) a
large flock of thofe birds were continually flying
about, and hovering alternately over them and —

the tents, making a noife fufficient to awaken any
man out of the foundeft fleep.
After a fleep of five or fix hours we once more
fet out, and’ walked eighteen or nineteen miles to
the South South Eaft, when we arrived at one of
the copper mines, which lies, from the river’s
mouth about South South Fat, diftant about

twenty-nine or thirty miles.

This |

—— > eS

NORTHERN OCEAN. 173

This mine, if it deferve that appellation, is no 771.

more than an entire jumble of rocks and gravel, ~~
which has been rent many ways by anearthquake. °°”
Through thefe ruins there runs a {mall river; but
no part of it, at the time I was there, was more
than knee-deep.
_ The Indians who were the occafion of my un.
dertaking this journey, reprefented this mine to
be fo rich and valuable, that if a factory were built
at the river, a fhip might be ballaited with the
oar, inftead of ftone; and that with the fame eafe
and difpatch as is done with ftones at Churchill
River. By their account the hills were entirely
compofed of that metal, allin handy lumps, like
aheap of pebbles. But their account differed fo
much from the truth, that I and almoft all my
companions expended near four hours in fearch
of fome of this metal, with fuch poor fuccefs,
that among us all, only one piece of any fize
could be found. This, however, was remark-
ably good, and weighed above four pounds*. I
believe the copper has formerly been in much
greater plenty; for in many places, both on
the furface and in the cavities and crevices of
the rocks, the ftones are much tinged with ver-
digrife.

It may not be unworthy the notice of the cu-
rious, or undeferving a place in my Journal, to

remark,

* This piece of Copper is now in the poffeffion of the Hudfon’s Bay
Company. :

174

July.

A JOURNEY TO THE

remark, that the Indians imagine that every bit.
‘“——~ of copper they find refembles fome object in na-
ture; but by what I faw of the large piece, and

fome {maller ones which were found by my com-

panions, it requires a great fhare of invention to”

make this out. I found that different people had

different ideas on the fubject, forthe large piece
of copper above mentioned had not been found |

tong before it had twenty different names. One
faying that it refembled this animal, and another
that it reprefented a particular part of another ;

at laft it was generally allowed to refemble an —
Alpine hare couchant: for my part, I muft con-.
fefs that I could not fee it had the leaft refem- _
blance to any thing to which they compared it.

It would be endlefs to enumerate the different

parts of a deer, and other animals, which the

Indians fay the beft pieces of copper refemble: it
may therefore be fufficient to fay, that the largeft
pieces, with the feweft branches and the leaft drofs,
are the beft for their ufe; as by the help of fire,
and two ftones, they can beat it out to any fhape
they with.

Before Churchill River was fettled by the Hud- —

fon’s Bay Company, which was not more than
af pany,

fifty years previous to this journey being under- |

taken, the Northern Indians had no other me- |

tal but copper among them, except a {mall quan-
tity of iron-work, which a party of them who

vifited York Fort about the year one thoufand |
feven hundred and thirteen, or one thoufand fe- |

ven

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ven hundred and fourteen, purchafed; and a few
pieces of old iron found at Churchill River, which
had undoubtedly been left there by Captain
Monk. This being the cafe, numbers of them
from all quarters ufed every Summer to refort to
thefe hills in fearch of copper; of which they made
hatchets, ice-chiffels, bayonets, knives, awls, ar-
row-heads, &c.* The many paths that had been
beaten by the Indians on thefe occafions, and
which are yet, in many places, very perfect,
efpecially on the dry ridges and hills, is furprifing;
in the vallies and marfhy grounds, however, they
are moftly grown over with herbage, fo as not to
be difcerned.

The Copper Indians fet a great value on their
native metal even to this day; and prefer it to
iron, for almoft every ufe except that of a hatch-

Ret,

* There is a ftrange tradition among thofe people, that the firft perfon

who difcovered thofe mines was a woman, and that fhe conduéted them to’

the place for feveral years; but as fhe was the only woman in company,
fome of the men took fuch liberties with her as made her vow revenge on
them; and fhe is faid to have been a great conjurer. Accordingly when
the men had loaded themfelves with copper, and were going to return, fhe
refufed to accompany them, and {aid fhe would fiton the mine till fhe fank
into the ground, and that the copper fhould fink with her. The next
year, when the men went for more copper, they found her funk up to the
waift, though flill alive and the quantity of copper much decreafed; and on
_ their repeating their vifit the year following, fhe had quite difappeared,
and all the principal part of the mine with her; fo that after that period
nothing remained on the furface but a few {mall pieces, and thofe were
feattered at a confiderable diflance from each other. Before that period
they fay the copper lay on the furface in fuch large heaps, that the Indi-
ans had nothing to do but turn it over, and pick fuch pieces as would beit
{uit the different ufes for which they intended it.

175

1771.
en ae
July.

176

1771.
i od

July.

A JOURNEY TO THE =: |
et, alenife, and an awl: for thefe three- neceflary |
implements, copper makes but a very poor . fub- |
ftitute. When they exchange copper for iron- |
work with our trading Northern Indians, which |
is but feldom, the ftahdard is‘an. ice-chiffel of |
copper for an ice-chiffel of iron, or an ice-chiffel
and a few arrow-heads of copper, for a half-worn |
hatchet ; but when they barter furrs with our In- |
dians, the eftablifhed rule is to give ten times the
price for every thing they. purchafe that is given |
for them at the Company’s. Factory., Thus, a
hatchet that is bought at the Factory for one |
beaver-fkin, or .one cat-fkin, or three ordinary !
martins’ kins, is fold to thofe people at the ad.
vanced price of one thoufand per cent. ; they | alfo |
pay in proportion, for knives, and every other |
{maller piece of iron-work. For a fmall- brafs.
kettle of two pounds, or two pounds and a half |
weight, they pay fixty martins, or twenty beaver.
in other kinds of furrs*. If the kettles are not

%* What is meant by Beaver in other kind of furrs, muft be underftood as |
follows: For the eafier trading with the Indians, as well as for the more |
correctly keeping their accounts, the Hudfon’s Bay Company have made a |
full-crown.beaver-fkin the ftandard by which they rate all other furrs, ac- |
cording to their refpective values. Thus in feveral fpecies of furrs, one |
fkin is valued at the rate of four beaver fkins; fome at three, and others

at two; whereas thofe of an inferior quality are rather at one; and thofe
of itill lefs value confidered foinferior to that of a beaver, that from fix
to twenty of their fkins are only valued as equal to one beaver fkin in the
way of trade, and do not fetch one-fourth of the price at the London mar-
Ket. In this manner the term ‘Made Beaver’ is to be underftood,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

thern traders have the confcience at times to ex-

177
1771,

act fomething more. It is at this extravagant “-~~Y

price that all the Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians,
who traffic with our yearly traders, fupply them-
felves with iron-work, &c..

From thofe two tribes our Northern Indians
ufed formerly to purchafe moft of the furrs they
brought to the Company’s Factory; for their own

‘country preducéd very few of thofe articles,
and being, at that time, at war with the Southern
Indians, they were prevented from penetrating
far enough backwards to meet with many ani-
mals of the furr kind; fo that deer-fkins, and
fuch furrs as they could extort from the Copper
and Dog-ribbed Indians, compofed the whole of
their trade; which, on an average of many years,
and indeed till very lately, feldom or ever exceed-
ed fix thoufand Made Beaver per annum.

At prefent happy it is for them, and greatly to
the advantage of the Company, that they are in
perfect peace, and live in friendfhip with their
Southern neighbours. ‘The good effect of this
harmony is already fo vifible, that within a few
years the trade from that quarter has increafed
many thoufands of Made Beaver annually ; fome
years even to the amount of eleven thoufand
fkins*. Befides the advantage arifing to the

N Company

* Since this Journal was written, the Northern Indians, by annually vi-
fiting their Southern friends, the Athapufcow Indians, have contracted the
’ {mall-

July.

A JOURNEY TO THE

Company from this increafe, the poor Northerm
Indians reap innumerable benefits from a fine and
plentiful country, with the produce of which
they annually load themfelves for trade, with--

out giving the leaft offence to the proper inha-
bitants.

Several attempts have been made to induce the _

Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians to vifit the Com-
pany’s Fort at Churchill River, and for that pur-
pofe many prefents have been fent, but they

never were attended with any fuccefs. And
| though -

fmall-pox, which has carried off nine-tenths of thern, and particularly
thofe people who compofed the trade at Churchill Fattory. The few
furvivors follow the example of their Southern neighbours, and all trade

with the Canadians, who are fettled in the heart of the Athapufcow —

country : fo that a very few years has proved my fhort-fightednefs, and

that it would have been much more to the advantage of the Company, as

well as have prevented the depopulation of the Northern Indian country, |
if they had {till remained at war with the Southern tribes, and never at-
tempted to better their fituation. At the fame time, it is impoffible to
fay what increafe of trade might not, in time, have arifen from a conftant
and regular traffic with the different tribes of Copper and Dog-ribbed In-
dians, But having been totally negleéted for feveral years, they have now
funk into their original barbarifm and extreme indigence; and a war has
enfued between the two tribes, for the fake of a few remnants of irons
work which was left among them; and the Dog-ribbed Indians were fo:
numerous, and fo fuccefsful, as to deftroy almoft the whole race of the Cop-
per Indians.

While I was writing this Note, J was informed by fome Northern Indi
ans, that the few which remain of the Copper tribe have found their way
to one of the Canadian houfes in the Athapufcow Indians country, where ‘
they get fupplied with every thing at lefs, or about half the price they were
formerly obliged to give; fo that the few farviving Northern Indians, as |
well as the Hudion’s Bay Company, have now loft every fhadow of any fu-
ture trade from that quarter, unlefs the Company will eftablifha as
ment with the Athapufcow country, and underfell the Canadians.

-

NORTHERN OCEAN. 179

though feveral of the Copper Indians have vifited 1774,
Churchill, in the capacity of fervants to the Nor- say
thern Indians, and were generally fent back load-
ed with prefents for their countrymen, yet the
Northern Indians always plundered them of the
whole foon after they left the Fort. This kind of
treatment, added to the many inconveniencies
that attend fo long ajourney, are great obftacles
in their way; otherwife it would be as poflible
for them to bring their own goods to market, as
for the Northern Indians to go fo far to purchafe
them on their own account, and have the fame
diftance to bring them as the firft proprietors
would have had. But it isa political fcheme of our
Northern traders to prevent fuch an intercourfe,
as it would greatly leflen their confequence and
emolument. Superftition, indeed, will, in all pro-
bability, be a lafting barrier againft thofe people
‘ever having a fettled communication with our
Factory; as few of them chufe to travel in coun-
tries fo remote from their own, under a pretence
that the change of air and provifions (though ex-
actly the fame to which they are accuftomed) are
highly prejudicial to their health; and that not
one out of three of thofe who have undertaken
the journey, have ever lived to return. The
firft of thefe reafons is evidently no more than
grofs fuperltition ; and though the latter is but
too true, it has always been owing to the treache-
ry and cruelty of the Northern Indians, who took
them under their protection. |

BM 2 Ic

180

1771s

a a

July.

A JOURNEY TO ‘THE

It is but a few years fince, that Captain Keel-
fhies, who is frequently mentioned in this Jour-
nal, took twelve of thefe people under his charge,
all heavy laden with the moft voluable furrs;
and long before they arrived at the Fort, he and _
the reft of his crew had got all the furrs from |
them, in payment for provifions for their fup- ,
port, and obliged them to carry the furrs on their
account.

On their arrival at Prince of Wales’s Fort,
Keelfhies laid claim to great merit for having
brought thofe ftrangers, fo richly laden, to the
Fadtory, and affured the Governor that he might,
in future, expect a great increafe in trade from
that quarter, through his intereit and afliduity.
One of the ftrangers was dubbed with the name
of Captain, and treated accordingly, while at the
Fort; that is, he was dreffed out in the beft man-
ner; and at his departure, both himfelf and all
his countrymen were loaded with prefents, in
hopes that they would not only repeat the vifit |
themfelves, but by difplaying fo much generofity,
many of their countrymen would be induced to |
accompany them. 3 |

There feems to be great propriety in the con-
duct of the Governor* on this occafion; but how-
ever well-intended, it had quite the contrary ef-
fect, for Keelfhies and the reft of his execrable |
gang, not content with fharing all the furrs thofe
poor people had carried to the Fort, determined

to

* Mr. Mofes Norton,

NORTHERN OCEAN. 184

to get alfo all the European goods that had been 1771.
given to them by the Governor. As neither gry
Keelfhies nor any of his gang had the courage to
kill the Copper Indians, they concerted a deep-
laid fcheme for their deftruction; which was to
leave them on an ifland. With this view, when
they got to the propofed {pot, the Northern Indi-
ans took care to have all the baggage belonging
to the Copper Indians ferried acrofs to the main,
and having {tripped them of fuch parts of their
clothing as they thought worthy their notice,
went off with all the canoes, leaving them all
behind on the ifland, where they perifhed for
want.’ When 1 was on my journey to the Fort
in June one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-
two, I faw the bones of thofe poor people, and
had the foregoing account from my guide Mato-
nabbee; but it was not made known to the Go-
vernor for fome years afterward, for fear of pre-
judicing him againft Keelfhies.

A fimilar circumftance had nearly happened to
a Copper Indian who accompanied me to the Fort
in one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-two:
after we were all ferried acrofs Seal River, and
the poor man’s bundle of furrs on the South-fide,
he was left alone on the oppofite fhore; and no.
one except Matonabbee would go over for him.
The wind at that time blew fo hard, that Mato-
nabbee {tripped himfelf quite naked, to be ready
for {wimming in cafe the canoe fhould overfet ;
but he foon brought the Copper Indian fafe over,

to

182 A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. to the no fmall mortification of the wretch who —
“—+-— had the charge of him, and who would gladly _
have poffeffed the bundle of furrs at the expence —
of the poor man’s life.
When the Northern Indians returned for the —
Factory that year, the above Copper Indian put
himfelf under the protection of Matonabbee, who
accompanied him as far North as the latitude
64°, where they faw fome Copper Indians, among
whom was the young man’s father, into whofe
hands Matonabbee delivered him in good health,

with all his goods fafe, and in good order.

Soon after we had left the Copper-mine, there
came on athick fog with rain, and at intervals
heavy fhowers of fnow. ‘This kind of weather
continued for fome days; and at times it was
fo thick, that we were obliged to ftop for feveral * |
hours together, as we were unable to fee our
way, and the road was remarkably rocky and
intricate.

22d. At three o’clock in the morning of the twenty-
fecond, Matonabbee’s brother and one of the
Copper Indians, who had been firft difpatched a-
head from Congecathawhachaga, overtook us.
During their abfence they had not difcovered |
any Indians who could have been ferviceable to
my expedition. They had, however, been at
the Copper River, and feeing fome marks fet up
there to direé&t them to return, they had made
the beft of their way, and had not flept from the
time

NORTHERN OCEAN.

183

time they left the river till they joined us, though 1474,
the diftance was not lefs than a hundred miles. -“~-~

When they arrived we were afleep, but we foon
awakened, and began to proceed on our jour-
ney. ‘hat day we walked forty-two miles ;
and in our way pafled Buffalo Lake: at night,
we put up about the middle of the Stony Moun-
tains. The weather was exceflively hot and
fultry.

On the twenty-third, the weather continued
much the fame as.on the preceding day. Early
in the morning we fet out, and walked forty-five
miles the firft day, during which the Indians kill-
ed feveral fine fat buck deer.

About one o’clock in the morning of the twen-
ty-fourth, we flopped and took a little retrefh-
‘ment, as we had alfo done about noon the pre-
_ ceding day; but the Indians had been fo long
from their wives and families, that they promif-
ed not to fleep tillthey faw them, efpecially as
we were then in fight of the hills of Congecatha-
whachaga, where we had left the laft of them.
After refling about an hour, we proceeded on
our way, and at fix in the morning arrived at
Congecathawhachaga ; when, to our great difap-
pointment, we found that all our women had got
fet acrofs the river before the Copper Indians left

that part; fo that when we arrived, not an In-

dian was to be found, except an old man and his
family, who had arrived in ovr abfence, and
was

July...

434.

24th.

184

enn.

A JOURNEY TO. THE -

was waiting at the crofling-place with fome furrs

=v) for Matonabbee, who was fo nearly related to the

July.

asth.

old man as to be his.fon-in-law, having one of his
daughters for a wife. The old man had another
with him, who was alfo offered to the great man,
but not accepted.

Our ftay at this place may be faid to have been
of very fhort duration; for on feeing a large
fmoke to the Southward, we immediately crofled
the river, and walked towards it, when we found
that the women had indeed been there fome days _
before, but were gone; and at their departure
had fet the mofs on fire, which was then burning,
and occafioned the {moke we had feen. By this
time the afternoon was far advanced; we purfued,
however, our courfe in the direction which the
women took, for their track we could eafily dif.
cover in the mofs. We had not gone far, before
we faw another {moke at a great diftance, for
which we fhaped our courfe; and, notwithftand-
ing we redoubled our pace, it was eleven o’clock
at night before we reached it ; when, toour great
mortification, we found it to be the place where
the women had flept the night before; having in
the morning, at their departure, fet fire to the
mofs which was then burning.

The Indians, finding that their wives were fo
near as to be within one of their ordinary day’s
walk, which feldom exceeded ten or twelve miles,
determined not to reft till they had joined them,

Accordingly

‘ NORTHERN OCEAN.

Accordingly we purfued our courfe, and about

two o’clock in the morning of the twenty-:

fifth, come up with fome of the women, who
had then pitched their tents by the fide of Coge-
ad Lake.

From our leaving the Copper-mine River to,this
time we had travelled fo hard, and taken fo little
reft by the way, that my feet and legs had fwell-
ed confiderably, and I had become quite {tiff at
theankles. In this fituation I had fo little pow-
er to direct my feet when walking, that I fre-
quently knocked them again{ft the flones with
fuch force, as not only to jar and diforder them,
but my legs alfo; and the nails of my toes were
bruifed to fuch a degree, that feveral of them fef-

tered and dropped off. ‘To add to this mifhap,

the fkin was.entirely chafed off from the tops of
both my feet, and between every toe; fo that the
fand and gravel, which I could by no means ex-
clude, irritated the raw parts fo much, that for a
whole day before we arrived at the women’s
tents, I left the print of my feet in blood almott
at every ftep I took. Several of the Indians be-
ganto complain that their feet alfo were fore ;
but, on examination, not one of them was the
twentieth part in fo bada ftate as mine. ©
_ This being the firft time I,had been in fuch a

fituation, or feen any body foot-foundered, Iwas -:

much alarmed, and under great apprehenfions
for the confequences. Though I was but little
fatigued

186

A JOURNEY TO THE

179 t. fatigued in body, yet the excruciating pain I fuf-
ae fered when walking, had fuch an efle@t on my

27th,

fpirits, that if the Indians had continued to travel
two or three days longer at that unmerciful rate, _
I muft unavoidably have been left behind; for
my feet were in many places quite honey-comb- —
ed, by the dirt and gravel eating into the raw _
flefh. |
As foon as we arrived at the women’s tents, the _
firft thing I did, was to wafh and clean my feet —
in warm water; then I bathed the {welled parts
with fpirits of wine, and drefled thefe that were |
raw with Turner’s cerate; foon after which I be- |
took myfelf to reft. As we did not move on the |
following day, I perceived that the {welling
abated, and the raw parts of my feet were not —
quite fo much inflamed. ‘This change for the —
better gave me the ftrongeft affurance that reft |
was the principal thing wanted to effect a fpeedy _
and complete cure of my painful though in reali- |
ty very fimple diforder, (foot-foundering,) which —
I had before confidered to be an affair of the
greateft confequence. |
Reft, however, though eflential to my. fpeedy |
recovery, could not at this time be procured; for
as the Indians were defirous of joining the remain-
der of their wives and families as foon as poffible, |
they would not ftop even a fingle day; fo that
on the twenty-feventh we again began to move; —
and though they moved at the rate of eight or _
nine

NORTHERN OCEAN.
nine miles a day, it was with the utmoft difficul-

187
1771.

ty that I could follow them. Indeed the weather —\-—~

proved remarkably fine and pleafant, and the
ground was in general pretty dry, and free from
ftones; which contributed greatly to my eafe
in walking, and enabled me to keep OP with the
natives.

On the thirty-firft of July, we arrived at the
place where the wives and families of my compa-
nions had been ordered to wait our return from
the Copper-mine River. Here we found feveral
tents of Indians; but thofe belonging to Mato-
nabbee, and fome others of my crew, had not ar-
rived. We faw, however, a large {moke to the
Eaftward, which was fuppofed had been made by
them, as no other Indians were expected from
that quarter. Accordingly, the next morning,
Matonabbee fent fome of his young men in queft
of them, and on the fifth, they all joined us;
when, contrary to expectation, a great number
of other Indians were with them; in all, to the
amount of more than forty tents. Among thofe
Indians, was the man who Matonabbee ftabbed
when we were at Clowey. With the greateft fub-
miffion he led his wife to Matonabbee’s tent, fet
her down by his fide, and retired, without faying
a word. Matonabbee took no notice of her,
though fhe was bathed in tears; and by degrees,
after reclining herfelf on her elbow for fome time,
ee lay down, and, fobbing, faid, /ee’d dinne, fee’d

dinne- /

July.

ait,

Auegut.
rit.

5th.

188

1771.
‘~~~ which Matonabbee told her, that if fhe had re.

Auguft.

A JOURNEY TO THE |
dinne ! which is, My hufband, my hufband! On

{pected him as fuch, fhe would not have run away
from him; and that fhe was at liberty to go
where fhe pleafed. On which fhe got up, with
feeming reluctance, though moft afluredly with a
light heart, and returned to her former hufband’s,
tent.

CHAP.

4

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Ce. A. PB + VIE.

| Remarks from the Time the Women joined us

till our Arrival at the Athapufcow Lake.

| Several of the Indians fick.— Method ufed by the conju-

rors to relieve one man, who recovers. —Matonabbee
and his crew proceed to the South We/t.— Mot of the
other Indians feparate, and go their refpective ways.
—Pafs by White Stone Lakeex—Many deer killed
merely for their fkins.—Remarks thereon, and on the
deer, refpecting feafons and places.— Arrive at Point
Lake.—One of the Indian's wives being fick, is left
behind to perifh above-ground.—Weather very bad,
but deer plenty.—Stay fome time at Point Lake to
dry meat, &c.—Winter fet in.—Super/ftitious cuftoms
obferved by my companions, after they bad killed the
Efquimaux at Copper River.—A violent gale of wind
overfets my tent and breaks my quadrant.—Some
Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians join us.—lIndians
propofe to go to the Athapufcow Country to kill
moofe.—Leave Point Lake, and arrive at the wood’s
edge.—Arrive at Anawd Lake.—Tranfattions
there—Remarkabie inftance of a man being cured

189

of the palfey by the conjurors.—Leave Anawd Lake

—Arrive at the great Athapufcow Lake

-@EVERAL of the Indians being very ill, the

conjurers, who are always the doctors, and

pretend to perform great cures, began to try their

fkill

1 Tt I.
\ceerroy pened
Augult,

A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. fkill to effet their recovery. Here it is neceflary
wren to remark, that they ufe no medicine either for
Augut. internal or external complaints, but perform all |
their cures by charms. In ordinary cafes, fuck-_
ing the part affected, blowing, and finging to it;
haughing, fpitting, and at the fame time uttering
a heap of unintelligible jargon, compofe the whole
procefs of cure.. For fome inward complaints ;
fuch as, griping in the inteftines, difficulty of
making water, &c. it is very common to fee
thofe jugglers blowing into the anus, or into the
parts adjacent, till their eyes are almoft ftarting
out of their heads: and this operation is per-
formed indifferently on all, without regard either
to age or fex. The accumulation of fo large a
quantity of wind is at times apt to occafion fome
extraordinary emotions, which are not ealily
fupprefled by a fick perfon; and as there is no
vent for it but by the channel through which it
was conveyed thither, it fometimes occafions an
odd {cene between the doétor and his patient;
which I once wantonly called an engagement,
but for which I was afterward exceedingly forry,
as it highly offended feveral of the Indians; par-.
ticularly the juggler and the fick perfon, both of
whom were men I much efteemed, and, except
in that moment of levity, it had ever been no lefs
my inclination than my intereft to fhew them |
every refpect that my fituation would admit.
I have often admired the great pains thefe jug-
glers take to deceive their credulous countrymen,
while

190

NORTHERN OCEAN.

while at the fame time they are indefatigably in-

191
177k.

duftrious and perfevering in their eflorts to relieve -~—~

them. Being naturally not very delicate, they
frequently continue their windy procefs {fo long,
that I have more than once feen the doctor quit
his patient with his face and breaft in a very dif
agreeable condition. However Yaughable this
may appear to an European, cuflom makes it ve-
ry indecent, in their opinion, to turn any thing
of the kind to ridicule.

When a friend for whom they have a particular
regard is, as they fuppofe, dangeroufly ill, belide
the above methods, they have recourfe to another
very extraordinary piece of fuperftition; which

isno lefs than that of pretending to {wallow
hatchets, ice-chiflels, broad bayonets, knives, and
thedike; out of a fuperftitious notion that un-
dertaking fuch defperate feats will have fome in-
fluence in appeafing death, and procure a refpite
for their patient.

On fuch extraordinary occafions a conjuring-
houfe is erected, by driving the ends of four long
fall fticks, or poles, into the ground at right

angles, fo as to form a {quare of four, five, fix,

or feven feet, as may be required. The tops of
the poles are tied together, and all is clofe cover-

Augatt,

ed with a tent-cloth or other fkin, exadtly in the ©

fhape of a {mall {quare tent, except that there is
no vacancy left at the top to admit the light. In
the middle of this houfe, or tent, the patient is
laid, and is foon followed by the conjurer, or

conjurers.

192
igi.

. siugult,

A JOURNEY TO THE

conjurers. Sometimes five or fix of them give |

their joint-afliftance ; but before they enter, they
{trip themfelves quite naked, and as foon as they
get into the honfe, the door being well clofed,

they kneel round the fick perfon or perfons, and _

begin to fuck.and blow at the parts effected, and —
then in a very fhort {pace of time fing and talk _

as if converfing with familiar {pirits, which they

fay appear to them in the fhape of different beafts _

and birds of prey. When they have had fufficient

conference with thofe neceffary agents, orfhadows, —
as they termthem, they afk forthe hatchet, bay- —

onet, or the like, which is always prepared by
another perfon, with a long ftring faftened to it
by the haft, for the convenience of hauling it up

again after they have fwallowed it; for they —

very wifely admit this to be a very neceflary’pre-
caution, as hard and compact bodies, fuch as iron
and fteel, would be very difficult to digeft, even
by the men who are enabled to {wallow them.

Befides, as thofe tools are in themfelves very ufe- _

ful, and not always to be procured, it would be
very ungenerous in the conjurers to digeft them,
when it is known that barely fwallowing them
and hauling them up again is fully fuflicient to
anfwer every purpofe that is expected from them.

At the time when the forty and odd tents of

Indians joined us, one mau was fo dangeroully ill,
that it was thought neceflary the conjurers fhould
ufe fome of thofe wonderful experiments for his

recovery; one of them thereforeimmediately, con- |
fented |

NORTHERN OCEAN. £93

fented to fwallow a broad bayonet. Accordingly, 1991.
a conjuring-howfe was erected in the manner ee
above defcribed, into which the patient was con-
veyed, and.he was foon followed by the conjurer,
who, after a long preparatory difeourfe, and the
neceflary conference with his familiar fpirits, or
‘fhadows, as they call them, advanced to the door
‘and afked for the bayonet, which wasthenready xh,
prepared, by having a ftring faftened to it, and a
fhort piece of wood tied to the other end of the
firing, to prevent him from {wallowing it. I
could not help obferving that the length of the
bit of wood was not more than the breadth of
the bayonet : however, as it anfwered the intend-
ed purpofe, it did equally well as if it had been as
long as a hand{fpike.
Though I am not fo credulous as to believe that
the conjurer abfolutely fwallowed the bayonet,
yet I muft acknowledge that in the twinkling of
an eye he conveyed it to—God knows where;
and the {mall piece of wood, or one exactly like
it, was confined clofe to his teeth. He then pa-
_ Fadéd backward and forward before the conjur-
ing-houfe for a fhort time, when he feigned to be
greatly difordered in his ftomach and bowels ;
and, after making many wry faces, and groaning
moft hideoufly, he put his body into feveral di-
ftorted attitudes, very fuitable to the occafion. He
then. returned to the door of the conjuring-houfe,
and after making many ftrong efforts to vomit,
by the help of the ftring he at length, and after
tugging at it fome time, produced the bayonet,
O which

(194
179%.

ey pre!
Auguft.

oth.

looked round with an air of exultation, and
-newed his incantations, and continued them with-

out intermiffion twenty-four hours. Though L
‘was not clofe to his elbow when he performed

-off to fee it fo plain as § could with; which in-
‘caufe I was not near enough to detect the decep- |

-and in afew days afterwards we left that place
_and proceeded to the South Weft. |

-our journey, and continued our courfe in the |

-ever, who had been in our company, except —
twelve tents, ftruck off different ways. As to

A JOURNEY TO THE

which apparently he hauled out of his mouth, to
the no {mall furprize of all prefent. He then

Rrutting into the conjuring-houfe, where he re-_

the above feat, yet kthought myfelf near enough
(and I can aflure my readers I was all attention) |
to have detected him. Indeed I muft confefs
that it appeared to me to be a very nice piece of
deception, efpecially as it was performed by a
man quite naked.

Not long after this flight-of-hand work was
over, fome of the Indians afked me what I thought —
of it; to which I anfwered, that I was too far —

deed was no more than the ftricteft truth, be- ©

tion. The fick man, however, foon recovered ;

On the ninth of Auguft, we once more purfued |

South Weft quarter, generally walking about fe- _
ven or eight miles a day, All the Indians, how-

myfelf, having had feveral days reft, my feet were

completely healed, though the fkin remained ©

very tender for fome time, |
From

NORTHERN OCEAN.
From the nineteenth to the twenty-fifth, we

177

195

I.

walked by the fide of Thaye-chuck-gyed Whoie, ose
/ or Large Whiteftone Lake, which is about forty x9: th—oasth

| miles long from. the North Eaft to the South
Weft, but of very unequal breadth. A river from
\ the North Weft fide of this lake is faid to run in
a ferpentine manner a long way to the Weftward;
}and then tending to the Northward, compofes
the main branch of the Copper-mine River, as
has been already mentioned; which may or may
not be true. It is certain, however, that there
are many rivulets, which empty themfelves into
this lake from the South Eaft; but as they are all
imall ftreams, they may probably be no more
than what is fufficient to fupply the conftant de-
creafe occafioned by the exhalations, which, dur-
ing the fhort Summer, fo high a Northern lati-
tude always affords.

_ Deer were very plentiful the whole way; the
Indians killed great numbers of them daily, mere-
ly for the fake of their fkins ; and at this time of
the year their pelts are in good feafon, and the
hair of a proper length for clothing.

The great deftruction which is made of the
deer in thofe parts at this feafon of the year on-
ly, is almof incredible; and as they are never
known to have more than one young one at a
time, it is wonderful they do not become {carce :
but fo far is this from being the cafe, that the old-
eft Northern Indian in all their tribe will affirm
that the deer are as plentiful now as they ever have

Ree hy Picky 5 ABER &

ig6
1771.

Auguift,
3 ‘and with great probability of truth, that they are

A JOURNEY TO THE |
been; and though they are remarkably fcarce
fome years near Churchill river, yet it is faid,

more plentiful in other parts of the country than’ |
they were formerly. The fcarcity or abundance’
of thefe animals in different places at the fame |
feafon is caufed, in a great meafure, by the winds -
which prevail for fome time before; for the deer
are fuppofed by the natives to walk always in the’
direétion from which the wind blows, except when
they migrate from Eaft to Weft, or from Weft tov
Eaft, in fearch of the oppofite fex, for the purpofe
of propagating their fpecies. |
It requires the prime part of the fkins of Frovihd
eight to ten deer to make a complete fuit of warm’
clothing for a grown perfon during the Winter ;
all of which fhould, if poffible, be killed in the)
month of Auguft, or early in September ; for af-.
ter that time the hair is too long, and at the fame’
time fo loofe in the pelt, that it will drop off with)
the flighteft injury.
Befide thefe fkins, which muft bein the bait
each perfon requires feveral others to be dreffed
into leather, for ftockings and fhoes, and light
Summer clothing; feveral more are alfo wantedl
in a parchment ea to make clewla as they call
it, or thongs to make netting for their fnow-thoes,
{nares for deer, fewing for their fledges, and, in’
faét, for every other ufe where ftrings or lines of.
any kind are required: fo that each perfon, on aa’
average, expends, in the courfe ofa year, upw ards.
of

NORTHERN OCEAN,
| of twenty deer fkins in clothing and other dome-

other things which it is impoflible to remember,
/and unneceflary to enumerate.
All fkins for the above-mentioned purpofes
Hare, if poflible, procured between the beginning
(jof Auguft and the middle of OGober ; for when
Hl the rutting feafon is over, and the Winter fets in,
i/the deer-fkins are not only very thin, but in ge-
neral full of worms and warbles ; which render
Hthem of little ufe, unlefs it be to cut into fine
thongs, of which they make fifhing-nets, and nets
for the heels and toes of their fhow-fhoes. In-
# deed the chief ufe that is made of them in Win-
) ter is for the purpofe of food; and really when
the hair is properly taken off, and ail the warbles
are {queezed out, if they are well-boiled, they are
far from being difagreeable. The Indians, how-
J ever, never could perfuade me to eat the warbles,
! of which fome of them are remarkably fond, par-
ticularly the children. They are always eaten
|\raw and alive, out of the fkin; and are faid, by
thofe who like them, to be as fine as goofeberries.
But the very idea of cating fuch things, exclufive
Hof their appearance, (many of them being as
Hlarge as the firft joint of thelittle finger,) was
|quite fufficient to give me an unalterable difguft
‘to fuch a repaft; and when I acknowledge that
\ the warbles out of the deers backs, and the do-
imeftic lice, were the only twothings I ever faw
my companions eat, of which I could not, or did
not,

SOF

1771.

| ftic ufes, exclufive of tent cloths, bags, and many ~~

Augutt,

198 A JOURNEY TO THE

i771, Not partake, I truft I fhall not be reckoned over |
priate! delicate in my appetite.

The month of October is the rutting feafon |
with the deer in thofe parts, and after the time of
their courtthip is over, the bucks feparate from
the does; the former proceed to the Wekward, |
to take fhelter in the woods during the Winter, _
and the latter keep out in the barren ground the
whole year. This, though a general rule, is not
without fome exceptions; for | have frequently —
feen many does in the woods, though they bore —
no proportion to the number of bucks. This rule, :
therefore, only ftands good refpecting the deer
to the North of Churchill River; for the deer
to the Southward live promifcuoufly among the |
woods, as well as in the plains, and along the |
banks of rivers, lakes, t5’c. the whole year.

The old buck’s horns are very large, with ma-
ny branches, and always drop off in the month.
of November, which is about the time they begin
to approach the’ woods. This is undoubtedly
wifely ordered by Providence, the better to ena-

- ble them to efcape from their enemies through
the woods; otherwife they would become an ea-
fy prey to wolves and other beafts, and be liable
to get entangled among the trees, even in rang.
ing about in fearch of food. The fame opinion
may probably be admitted of the Southern deer, |
which always refide among the woods; but the
Northern deer, though by far the fmalleft in this |
country, have much the largeft horns, and the
branches are fo long, and at the fame time fpread_

fo

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fo wide, as to make them more liable to be en-
tangled among the under-woods, than any other
fpecies of deer that I have noticed. The young
bucks in thofe parts do not fhed their horns fo
foon as the old ones: I have frequently feen them
killed at or near Chriftmas, and could difcover
no appearance of their horns being loofe. The
does do not fhed their horns till the Summer ; fo
that when the buck’s horns are ready to drop off,
the horns of the does are all hairy, and {carcely
come to their full growth.

The deer in thofe parts are generally in motion
from Eaftto Welt, or from Weft to Eaft, accord-
ing to the feafon, or the prevailing winds; and
that is the principal reafon why the Northern In-
dians are always fhifting their ftation. From
November till May, the bucks continue to the
Weftward, among the woods, when their horns
begin to fprout; after which they proceed on
to the Eaftward, to the barren grounds; and the
does that have been on the barren ground all the

Winter, are taught by inftinct to advance to the
Weftward to meet them, in order to propagate
their fpecies. immediately after the rutting fea-
fon is over, they feparate, as hath been mention-
ed above. The old vulgar faying, fo generally
received among the lower clafs of people in Eng-
land, concerning the bucks fhedding their yards,
or more properly the glands of the penis, yearly,
whether it be true in England or not, is certainly
mot true in any of the countries bordering on

Hudfon’s

199
1771.

eed
Augutt.

200 A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. Hudfon’s Bay. A long refidence among the In-~

by here dians has enabled me to confirm this aflertion —
ugu e

with great confidence, as I have feen deer killed
every day throtghout the year; and when J)
have mentioned this circumftance to the Indians, _
either Northern or Southern, they always affured |
me that they never obferved any fuch fymptoms. —
With equal truth I can affert, and that from ~
ocular demonftration, that the animal which is ©
called the Alpine Hare in Hudfon’s Bay, atually
undergoes fomething fimilar to that which is vul-
garly afcribed to the Englith deer. I have feen
and handled feveral of them, who had been kill. —
ed juft after they had coupled in the Spring, % |
with the penifes hanging out, dried up, and fhri- |
welled, like the navel-ftring of young animals ;
and on examination I always found a paflage
through them for the urine to pafs. I have
thought proper to give this remark a place in my
Journal, becaufe, in all probability, it is not gene-
rally known, even to thofe gentlemen who have
qnade natural hiftory their chief ftudy; and if”
their refearches are of any real utility to mankind, ©
it is furely to be regretted that Providence
fhould have. placed the greateft part of them too
remote from want to be obliged to travel for —
ocular proots of what they affert in their publica-
tions; they are therefore witely content to ftay ©
at home, and enjoy the bleflings with which they
are endowed, refling fatisfied to collect fuch in-—
formation for their own amufement, and the
gratis

NORTHERN OCEAN,

| gratification of the public, as thofe who are ne-

20r

1771.

| ceffitated to be travellers are able or willing to Unnru

|give them. It is true, and I am forry it is fo,
{that I come under the latter defcription; but
| hope I have not, or fhall not, in the courfe of this
Journal, advance any thing that will not fland
the teft of experiment, and the {kill of the mot
competent judges.

After leaving White Stone Lake, we continued
our courfe in the South Weft quarter, feldom
walking more than twelve miles a day, and fre-
quently not half that diftance,

{mall river belonging to Point Lake, but the wea-
ther at this time proved fo boifterous, and there
was fo much rain, fnow, and froft, alternately,
that we were obliged to wait feveral days before
we could crofs it in our canoes; and the water
was too deep, and the current too rapid, to at.
tempt fording it. During this interruption,
however, our time was not entirely loft, as deer
were fo plentiful that the Indians killed numbers
of them, as well for the fake of their fkins, as
for their flefh, which was at prefent in excellent
order, and the fkins in proper feafon for the fun-
dry ufes for which they are deftined.

In the afternoon of the feventh, the weather
became fine and moderate, when we all were
ferried acrofs the river; and the next morning
fhaped our courfe to the South Welt, by the fide
of point Lake. After three days journey, which

only

Augutt,

On the third of September, we arrived at ag. somber.

3d.

8th.

202 Ai JOURNEY’ TO THE |

177. only confifted of about eighteen miles, we came
eer to a few {mall ferubby woods, which were the |
~ firft that we had feen from the twenty-fifth of }
May, except thofe we had perceived at the Cop- ]
per-mine River. |
One of the Indian’s wives, who for fome time }
had been in a contumption, had for a few days —
paft become fo weak as to be incapable of travel |
ling, which, among thofe people, is the moft de-
plorable ftate to which a human being can pofli- —
bly be brought. Whether fhe had been given —
over by the dodtors, or that it was for want of —
friends among them, I cannot tell, but certain it
is, that no expedients were taken for her recove-
ry; fo that, without .much ceremony, fhe was
left unaflifted, to perifh above-ground.
Yhough this was the firft inftance of the kind |
1 had feen, it is the common, and indeed the con-
{tant practice of thofe Indians; for when a grown
perfon is fo ill, efpecially in the Summer, as not
to be able to walk, and too heavy to be carried,
they fay it is better to leave one who is paft reco-
very, than for the whole family to fit down by —
them and ilarve to death; well knowing that they
cannot be of any fervice to the afflicted. On thofe
occafions, therefore, the friends or relations of the
fick generally leave them fome victuals and wa- —
ter; and, if the fituation of the place will afford
it, a little firing. When thofe articles are |
provided, the. perfon to be left is acquainted |
with the road which the others intend to go;

and ©

NORTHERN OCEAN. 203

and then, after covering them well up with deer 177K.
fkins, €c. they take their leave, and walk away ~V~
crying. September.

Sometimes perfons thus left, recover; and
come up with their friends, or wander about till
they meet with other Indians, whom they accom-
pany till they again join their relations. Inftan-
ces of this kind are feldom known. ‘The poor
woman above mentioned, however, came up with
us three feveral times, after having been left in-
the manner defcribed. At length, poor crea-
ture! fhe dropt behind, and no one attempted to
go back in fearch of her.

A cuftom apparently fo unnatural is perhaps
not to be found among any other of the human
race: if properly confidered, however, it may

‘with juftice be afcribed to neceflity and felf-pre-
fervation, rather than to the want of humanity
and focial feeling, which ought to be the charac.
teriftic of men, as the nobleft part of the creati-
on. Neceflity, added to national cuftom, contri-
butes principally to make fcenes of this kind lefs
fhocking to thofe people, than they muft appear
to the more civilized part of mankind.

During the early part of September, the wea-
ther was in general cold, with much fleet and
fnow ; which feemed to promife that the Winter
would fet in early. Deer at this time being very
plentiful, and the few woods we met with afford-

_ ing tent-poles and firing, the Indians propofed to
remain where we were fome time, in order to
drefs

204.

120%,

eye
September:

28th.

3eth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

drefs fkins, and provide our Winter clothing;
alfo to make {now-fhoes and temporary fledges,
as well as to prepare a large quantity of dried
meat and fat to carry with us; for by the ac-
counts of the Indians, they have always experi- J
enced a great fcarcity of deer, and every other _
kind of game, in the direGtion they propofed we
fhould go when we left Point Lake. |
‘Toward the middle of the month, the weather
became quite mild and open, and continued fo

till the end of it; but there was fo much con- 5 |

ftant and inceflant rain, that it rotted moft of our |
tents. Onthe twenty-eighth, however, the wind

fettled in the North Weft quarter, when the wea- |

ther grew fo cold, that by the thirtieth all the
ponds, lakes, and other Handing waters, were
frozen over fo hard that we were enabled to crofs
them on the ice without danger.

Among the various fuperftitious cuftoms of
thofe people, it is worth remarking, and ought
to have been mentioned it its proper place, that

immediately after my companions had killed the J

Efquimaux at the Copper River, they confidered —

themfelves in a ftate of uncleannefs, which induce JJ

ed them to pra¢tife fome very curious and un- —
ufual ceremonies. In the firft place, all who —
were abfolutely concerned in the murder were
prohibited from cooking any kind of victuals,
either for themfelves or others. As luckily there
were two in company who had not fhed blood,

they were employed always as cocks till we join-
ed

NORTHERN OCEAN: 205

édthe women. This circumftance was exceed- y771.
ingly favourable on my fide ; for had there been inane
no perfons of the above defcription in company,

that tafk, I was told, would have fallen on me ;

~ which would have been no lefs fatiguing and trou-
blefome, than humiliating and vexatious.

When the victuals were cooked, all the murde-
rers took a kind of red earth, or oker, and paint-
ed all the fpace between the nofe and chin, as well
as the greater part of their cheeks, almoft to the
ears, before they would tafte a bit, and would not
drink out of any other difh, or imoke out of any
other pipe, but their own; and none of the
others feemed willing to drink or fmoke out of
theirs.

We had no fooner joined the women, at our
return from the expedition, than there feemed to
be an univerfal fpirit of emulation among them,
vying who fhould firft make a fuit of ornaments
for their hufbands, which confifted of bracelets for
the wrifts, and a band for the forehead, compof-
_ed of porcupine quills and moofe-hair, curioufly
wrought on leather.

The cuftom of painting the mouth and part of
- the cheeks before each meal, and drinking and
fmoking out of their own utenfils, was ftridily
and invariable obferved, till the Winter began to
fet in; and during the whole of that time they
would never kifs any of their wives or children.
They refrained alfo from eating many parts of
the deer and other animals, particularly the head,

entrails,

£06

1771.
ee
September,

October.

6th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

entrails, and blood; and during their unclean-
neis, their victuals were never fodden in water,
but dried in the fun, eaten quite raw, or broil-
ed, when a fire fit for the purpofe could be pro-
cured.

When the time arrived that was to put an end
to thefe ceremonies, the men, without a female »
being prefent, made a fire at fome diftance from
the tents, into which they threw all their orna-.
ments, pipe-ftems, and difhes, which were foon
confumed to afhes; after which a feaft was pre-
pared, confifting of fuch articles as they had long
been prohibited from eating; and when all was
over, each man was at liberty to eat, drink, and
fmoke as he pleafed; and alfo to kifs his wives —
and children at difcretion, which they feemed to
do with more raptures than I had ever known
them do it either before or fince.

OGober came in very roughly, attended with
heavy falls of fmow, and much drift. On the
fixth at night, a heavy gale of wind from the
North Weft put us in great diforder ; for though
the few woods we pafled had furnifhed us with

‘tent-poles and fewel, yet they did not afford us

the leaft fhelter whatever. The wind blew with —
fuch violence, that in f{pite of all our endeavours,
it overfet feveral of the tents, and mine, among
the reft, fhared the difafter, which I cannot fuffi- .
ciently lament, as the but-ends of the weather |
tent-poles fell on the quadrant, and though it was
in a firong wainfcot cafe, two of the bubbles, the

index,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

index, and feveral other parts were broken,
which rendered it entirely ufelefs. This being the
cafe, I did not think it worth carriage, but broke
it to pieces, and gave the brafs-work to the Indi-
ans, who cut it into {mall lumps, and made ule of
it inftead of ball.

On the twenty-third of October, feveral Cop-

per anda few Dog-ribbed Indians came to our

tents laden with furrs which they fold to fome

of my crew for fuch iron-work as they had to.

giveinexchange. This vifit, I afterwards found,

was by appointment of the Copper Indians whom
we had feen at Congecathawhachaga, and who,
in their way to us, had met the Dog-ribbed Indi-
ans, who were alfo glad of fo favourable an op-
portunity of purchafing fome of thofe valuable
articles, though at a very extravagant price: for
one of the Indians in my company, though not
properly of my party, got no lefs than forty
beaver fkins, and fixty martins, for one piece of
iron which he had ftole when he was laft at the
Fort*.

One of thofe ftrangers had about forty beaver
fkins, with which he intended to pay Matonab-
bee an old debt; but one of the other Indians

feized

* The piece of iron above mentioned was the coulter of a new-fafhioned
plough, invented by Captain John Fowler, late Governor at Churchill
River, with which he had a large piece of ground ploughed, and after-
wards fowed with oats: but the part being nothing but a hot burniag
fand, like the Spanifh lines at Gibraltar, the fuccefs may eafily be gueff:
ed; which was, that it did not produce a fingle grain:

2047

1771.

<I

October,

;
2 jo

208

set.

Oober

A JOURNEY TO THE

feized the whole, notwithflanding he knew it to
~~ be in fact Matonabbee’s property. ‘This treat-.
ment, together with many other infults, which
he had received during my abode with him, made.
him renew his old refolution of leaving his own
country, and going to refide with the Athapuf._ |
cow Indians. |
As the moft interefting part of my journey was)
now over, I did not think it neceffary to interfere:
in his private affairs; and therefore did not en-.
deavour to influence him either one way or the
other: out of complaifance, therefore rather than’
any thing elfe, I told him, that I thought fuch)
behaviour very uncourteous, efpecially in a man)
of his rank and dignity. As to the reafon of his;
determination, I did not think it worth while to’
enquire into it; but, by his difcourfe with the
other Indians, I foon underftood that they all in-
tended to make an excurfion into the country of
the Athapufcow Indians, in order to kill moofe
and beaver. The former of thofe animals are ne-
ver found in the Northern Indian territories;
and the latter are fo fcarce in thofe Northern)
parts, that during the whole Winter of one thou-
fand feven hundred and feventy, I did not fee
more than two beaver houfes. Martins are alfo’
{carce in thofe parts; for during the above peri-
ed, Ido not think that more than fix or eight
were killed by all the Indians in my company.
This exceedingly {mall number, among fo many
people,

————————

NORTHERN OCEAN.

people, may with great truth be attributed to the
indolence of the Indians, and the wandering life
which they lead, rather than to the great fcarcity
of the martins. It is true, that our moving fo
frequently from place to place, did at times make
_ it not an object worth while to build traps; but
had they taken the advantage of all favourable
Opportunities, and been poflefled of half the in-
duftry of the Company’s fervants in the Bay,
they might with great eafe have caught as many
hundreds, if not fome thoufands; and when we
confider the extent of ground which we walked
over in that time, fuch a number would not have
been any proof of the martins being very plen-

tiful.
Except a few martins; wolves, quiquehatches,
foxes, and otters, are the chief furrs to be met
with in thofe parts, and few of the Northern In-
dians chufe to kill either the wolf or the quique-
hatch, under a notion that they are fomething
more than common animals. Indeed, I have
known fome of them fo bigotted to this opinion,
that having by chance killed a quiquehatch by a
-gun which had been fet for a fox, they had left it
where it was killed, and would not take off its
fkin. Notwithftanding this filly notion, which
is too frequently to be obferved among thofe
people, it generally happens that there are fome
in every gang who are lefs fcrupulous, fo that
none of thofe furrs are ever left to rot ; and even
thofe who make a point of not killing the ani-
P mals

209

1771.

ae
October,

210
1 77 Le
Otober.

30th.

November,

Tf.

Sth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

mals themfelves, are ready to receive their fkins
from other Indians, and carry them to the Fort
for trade.

By the thirtieth of October, all. our clothing,
fnowfhoes, and temporary fledges, being com-
pleted, we once more began to prepare for mov-
ing; and on the following day fet out, and walk-
ed five or fix miles to the Southward.

From the firft to the fifth of November we
walked on the ice of a large lake, which, though
very confiderable both in length and breadth, is
not diftinguifhed by any general name; on
which account I gave it the name of No Name
Lake. On the South fide of this lake we found
fome wood, which was very acceptable, being
the firft that we had feen fince we left Point
Lake.

No Name Lake is about fifty miles long from
North to South, and, according to the account’
of the Indians, is thirty-five miles wide from
Faft to Weft. It is faid to abound with fine fifh;
but the weather at the time we crofled it was fo
cold, as to render it impoflible to fit on the ice
any length of time toangle. A few exceedingly
fine trout, and fome very large pike, however,
were caught by my companions.

When we arrived on the South fide of the
above lake, we fhaped our courfe to the South
Weft; and though the weather was in general
very cold, yet as we every night found tufts of

wood,

NORTHERN OCEAN. 211

wood, in which we could pitch our tents, we 1771.
were enabled to make a better defence againift the ~~”
weather, than we had had it in our power to do

for fome time paft.

On the tenth of November, we arrived at the 10th.
edge of the main woods; at which time the
Indians began to make proper fledges, fome fnow-
fhoes, &5°c. after which we proceeded again to
the South Weft. But deer and all other kinds
of game were fo fcarce the whole way, that, ex-
cept a few partridges, nothing was killed by any
in company: we had, neverthelefs, plenty of
the provifion which had been prepared at Point

~ Lake.

On the twentieth of the fame month, we ar- oth.

rived at Anaw’d Whoie, or the Indian Lake.
In our way we crofled part of Methy Lake, and
walked near eighty miles on a {mall river belong-
ing to it, which empties itfelf into the Great
Athapufcow Lake*. While we were walking
on the above little river, the Indians fet fifhing-
nets under the ice every night; but their labour
was attended with fo little fuccefs, that all they
caught ferved only as a delicacy, or to make a
Tittle change in our diet ; for the quantity was too
trifling to occafion any confiderable faving of our
| other provifions.
| Anaw’d Lake, though fo {mall as not to exceed
| twenty miles wide in the broadeft part, is cele-
. P 2 brated

* Thecourfe of 'this river is nearly South Weft.

Z12

LPT.

| ee
November

A JOURNEY TO THE

brated by the natives for abounding with plenty |
of fifh during the Winter; accordingly the Indi-
ans fet all their nets, which were not a few, and |
met with fuch fuccefs, that in about ten days the |
roes only were as much as all the women could |
haul after them. : a |

Tittimeg and barble, with a few fmall pike,
were the only fifh caught at this part; the.roes of |
which, particularly thofe of the tittimeg, are more _
efteemed by the Northern Indians, to take with |
them on a journey, than the fifh itfelf; for about
two pounds weight of thefe roes, when well bruif- _
ed, will make near four gallons of broth, as thick: |
as common burgoe; and if properly managed, |
will be as white as rice, which makes it very |
pleafing to the eye, and no lefs agreeable to the
palate. ) |

The land round this lake-is very hilly, though
not mountainous, and chiefly confifts of rocks
and loofe ftones; there muft, however, be a {mall
portion of foil on the furface, as it isin moft parts)
well clothed with tall poplars, pines, fir, ane |
birch; particularly in the vallies, where the po-
plars, pine, and birch feem to thrive beft; but’
the firs were as large, andinas flourifhing a flate,

|
|

on the very fummit of the hills, as in any other!
part. 4
Rabbits were here fo plentiful, particularly. on
the South and South Eaft fide of the lake, that
feveral of the Indians caught twenty or thirty in
a night with fnares; and the wood-partridges
were

NORTHERN OCEAN. 213

were fo numerous in the fir trees, and fo tame, 1771.
that I have known an Indian kill near twenty of
them in a day with his bow and arrows. ‘The
Northern Indians call this {pecies of the partridge
Day; and though their flefh is generally very
black and bitter, occafioned by their feeding on
the brufh of the fir tree, yet they make a variety,
or change of diet, and are thought exceedingly
good, particularly by the natives, who, though
capable of living fo hard, and at times eating ve-
ry ungrateful food, are neverthelefs as fond of
variety as any people whom I ever faw; and will
go as great lengths, according to their circumftan-
ces, to gratify their palates, as the greateft epi-
cure in England. As a proof of this aflertion, I
have frequently known Matonabbee, and others
who could afford it, for the fake of variety only,
fend fome of their young men to kill a few par-
tridges at the expence of more ammunition than
would have killed deer fufficient to have main-
tained their families many days; whereas the par-
tridges were always eaten up at one meal: andto
heighten the luxury on thefe occafions, the par-
tridges are boiled in a kettle of fheer fat, which it
mutt be allowed renders them beyond all defcrip-
tion finer flavoured than when boiled in water or
common broth. I have alfo eat deer-fkins boil-
ed in fat, which were exceedingly good.
As during our ftay at Anaw’d Lake feveral of
the Indians, were fickly, the doors undertook
to adminifter relief; particularly to one man, who
: had

:

November.

214 A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. had been hauled on a fledge by his brother for
“two months. His diforder was the dead palfey,
November. which affe@ted one fide, from the crown of his

head to the fole of hisfoot. Befides this dreadful
diforder, he had fome inward complaints, with a
total lofs of appetite ; fo that he was reduced to
a mere f{keleton, and fo weak as to be fcarcely ca-
pable of {fpeaking. In this deplorable condition, -
he was laid in the center of a large conjuring-
houfe, made much after the manner as that which
has been already defcribed. And that nothing
might be wanting toward his recovery, the fame
man who deceived me in {wallowing a bayonet
in the Summer, now offered to fwallow a large
piece of board, about the fize of a barrel-ftave, in
order to effect his recovery. .The piece of board
was prepared by another man, and painted ac-
cording to the direction of the juggler, with a
rude reprefentation of fome beaft of prey on
one fide, and on the reverfe was painted, ac- |
cording to their rude method, a refemblance of —
the fky.

Without entering into a long detail of the pre-
parations for this feat, I fhall at once proceed to
obferve, that after the conjurer had held the ne-—
ceflary conference with his invifible fpirits, or
fhadows, he afked if I was prefent; for he had ©
heard of my faying that I did not fee him fwal- —
low the bayonet fair: and on being anfwered in ©
the affirmative, he defired me to come nearer; _
on which the mob made a lane for me to pafs, —

and

NORTHERN OCEAN.

and I advanced clofe to him, and found him

215
1771.

ftanding at the conjuring-houfe door as naked as -~—~

he was born.
When the piece of board was delivered to him,
he propofed at firft only to fhove one-third of it

_ down his throat, and then walk round the com-

pany afterward to fhove down another third ;
and fo proceed till he had fwallowed the whole,
except afmall piece of the end, which was left be-
hind to haulit up again. When he put it to his
mouth it apparently flipped down his throat like
lightning, and only left about three inches ftick-
ing without his lips; after walking backwards
and forwards three times, he hauled it up again,
and ran into the conjuring-houfe with great pre-
cipitation. This he did to all appearance with
great eafe and compofure; and notwithftanding
I was all attention on the occafion, 1 could not
detect the deceit ; and as to the reality of its be-
ing a piece of wood that he pretended to f{wal.-
low, there is not the leaft reafon to doubt of it,

for Thad it in my hand, both before and immedi-

ately after the ceremony.

To prevent a variety of opinions on this occa-
fion, and to leflen the apparent magnitude of the
miracle, as well as to give fome colour to my
{cepticifm, which might otherwife perhaps appear
ridiculous, it is neceflary to obferve, that this feat
was performed in a dark and exceflively cold
night; and although there was a large fire at

fome diftance, which reflected a good light, yet

there

ovember,

216

1771.
| aed

November.

A JOURNEY TO THE

there was great room for collufion: for though
the conjurer himfelf was quite naked, there were
feveral of his fraternity well-clothed, who attend- _
ed him very clofe during the time of his attempt- |
ing to {wallow the board, as well as at the time of |
his hauling it up again.

For thefe reafonsit is neceflary alfo to fea

_ that on the day preceding the performance of this

piece of deception, in one of my hunting excur-
fions, I accidentally came acrofs the conjurer as
he was fitting under a bufh, feveral miles from
the tents, where he was bufily employed fhaping
a piece of wood exa¢tly like that part which ftuck
out of hismouth after he had pretended to fwal-
low the remainder of the piece. ‘The fhape of

the piece which I faw him making was this, W,
which exactly refembled the forked end of the main

piece, the fhape of which was this, Wie Ae) )
So that when his attendants had concealed the |
main piece, it was eafy for him to flick the {mall
point into his mouth, as it was reduced at the
fmall end to a proper fize for the purpofe.

Similar proofs may eafily be urged againft his
{wallowing the bayonet in the Summer, as no
perfon lefs ignorant than themfelves can poflibly
place any belief in the reality of thofe feats; yet
on the whole, they muft be allowed a confidera-
ble fhare of dexterity in the performance of thofe ©
tricks, and a wonderful deal of perfeverance in
what they do for the relief of thofe whom they
undertake to cure.

Not

NORTHERN OCEAN. 217

Notlong after the above performance had taken yy,

sia fome of the Indians began to afk me what Seoonvente

_ Ithought of it. As I could not have any plea
| for faying that I was far off, and at the fame time

— _

}

‘not caring to affront them by hinting my fufpici-

ons of the deceit, I was fome time at a lofs for an
anfwer : I urged, however, the impoflibility of a
man’s {wallowing a piece of wood, that was not
only much longer than his whole back, but near-
ly twice as broad as he could extend his mouth.

— On which fome of them laughed at my ignorance,

as they were pleafed to call it ; and faid, that the
fpirits in waiting fwallowed, or otherwife conceal-
ed, the flick, and only left the forked end appa-
rently flicking out of the conjurer’s mouth. My
guide, Matonabbee, with all his other good fenfe,
was fo bigotted to the reality of thofe performan-
ces, that he aflured me in the ftrongeft terms,

he had feen a man, who was them in company,

{wallow a child’s cradle, with as much eafe as he
could fold up a piece of paper, and put it into his
mouth; and that when he hauled it up again,

not the mark of a tooth, or of any violence, was
to be difcovered about it.

This ftory fo far exceeded the feats which I had

- feen with the bayonet and board, that, for the .
fake of keeping up the farce, I began to be very

inquifitive about the {pirits which appear to them

>on thofe occafions, and their form; when I[ was

told that they appeared in various fhapes, for al-
‘moft every conjurer had his peculiar attendant ;
but

218

177%

November.

A JOURNEY TO THE

but that the fpirit which attended the man who
pretended to {wallow the piece of wood, they
faid, generally appeared to him in the fhape of a
cloud. This I thought very a-propos to the pre- |
fent occafion; and I muft confefs that I never |
had fo thick a cloud thrown before my eyes be-
fore or fince; and had it not been by accident,

- that I faw him make a counterpart to the piece of |

him, when they foon began to fuck, blow, fing,

wood faid to be fwallowed, I fhould have been |
fill at a lofs how to account for fo extraordinary
a piece of deception, performed by a man who>
was entirely naked. |
As foon as our conjurer had executed the above
feat, and entered the conjuring-houfe as already
mentioned, five other men and an old woman, |
all of whom were great profeflors of that art, —
ftripped themfelves quite naked and followed

and dance, round the poor paralytic; and conti-
nued fo to do for three days and four nights,
without taking the leaft reft or refrefhment, not
even fo much as a drop of water.. When thefe
poor deluding and deluded people came out of -
the conjuring-houfe, their mouths were fo parch- |
ed with thirft as to be quite black, and their |
throats fo fore, that they were fcarcely able to.
articulate a fingle word, except thofe that ftand
for yes and vo in their language. |

After fo long an abftinence they were very cares
ful not to eat or drink too much at one time,
particularly for the firft day ; and indeed fome of —
them,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

them, to appearance, were almoft as bad as the
poor man they had been endeavouring to relieve.
But great part of this was feigned; for they lay
on their backs with their eyes fixed, as if in the
agonies of death, and were treated like young

children; one perfon fat conftantly by them, moi-

ftening their mouths with fat, and now and then

“giving them a drop of water. At other times a

{mall bit of meat was put into their mouths, or
a pipe held for them to fmoke. ‘This farce only

‘Jafted for the firft day; after which they feemed

to be perfectly well, except the hoarfenefs, which
continued for a confiderable time afterwards.
And it is truly wonderful, though the ftricteft
truth, that when the poor fick man was taken
from the conjuring-houfe, he had not only reco-
vered his appetite to an amazing degree, but was
able to move all the fingers and toes of the fide
that had been fo long dead. In three weeks he
recovered fo far as to be capable of walking, and
at the end of fix weeks went a hunting for his

family. He was one of the perfons* particular-

ly engaged to provide for me during my journey ;
and after his recovery from this dreadful difor-
der, accompanied me back to Prince of Wales’s
Fort in June one thoufand feven hundred and
feventy-two; and fince that time he has frequent-
ly vifited the Factory, though he never had a

} healthy

* His name was Cof-abyagh, the Northern Indian name for the Rock
Partridge.

219
179.

ee al
November.

220

1771.

November.

A JOURNEY TO THE

healthy look afterwards, and at times feemed
troubled with a nervous complaint. It may be
added, that he had been formerly of a remarka- —
ble lively difpofition; but after his laft illnefs he _
always appeared thoughtful, fometimes gloomy, |
and, in faét, the diforder feeméd to have changed —
his whole nature ; for before that dreadful para- |
lytic ftroke, he was diftinguifhed for his good-
nature and benevolent difpofition ; was entirely _|
free from every appearance of avarice; and the |
whole of his wifhes feemed confined within the |
narrow limits of poflefling as many goods as were |
abfoiutely neceflary, with his own induftry, to |
enable him to fupport his family from feafon to |
feafon; but after this event, he was the moft
fraGtious, quarrelfome, difcontented, and covet- —
ous wretch alive.

Though the ordinary trick of thefe conjurers
may be eafily detected, and juftly exploded, being |
no more than the tricks of common jugglers, yet |
the apparent good effect of their labours on the |
fick and difeafed is not fo eafily accounted for. |
Perhaps the implicit confidence placed in them by |
the fick may, at times, leave the mind fo perfect. |
ly at reft, as to caufe the diforder to take a favou-
rable turn; and a few fuccefsful cafes are quite
fufficient to eftablifh the door’s character and |
reputation: But how this confideration could |
operate in the cafe I have juft mentioned Iam at |
alofs to fay; fuch, however, was the fact, and I |
leave it to be accounted for by others.

When

NORTHERN OCEAN.

‘When thefe jugglers take a diflike to, and
threaten a fecret revenge on any perfon, it often
proves fatal to that perfon; as, from a firm be-
lief that the conjurer has power over his life, he
permits the very thoughts of it to prey on his
fpirits, till by degrees is brings on a diforder
which puts an end to his exiftence*: and fome-

times

* As a proof of this, Matonabbee, (who always thought me poflefled of
this art,) on his arrival at Prince of Wales’s Fort in the Winter of 1778,
informed me, that a man whom £ had never feen but once, had treated him
in fuch a manner that he was afraid of his life; in confequence of which
he prefled me very much to kill him, though I was then feveral hundreds
of miles diftant: On which, to pleafe this great man to whom I owed fo
much, and not expeéting that any harm could poffibly arife from it, 1
drewa rough {ketch of two human figures on a piece of paper, in the atti-
tude of wreftling : in the hand of one of them, I drew the figure of a bay-
onet pointing to the breaft of the other. This is me, faid I to Matonab-
bee, pointing to the figure which was holding the bayonet; and the other,
is your enemy. Oppofite to thofe figures I drew a pine-tree, over-which
I placed a large human eye, and out of the tree projected a human hand.
This paper I gave to Matonabbee, with inftruétions to make it as public-
ly known as poffible. Sure enough, the following year, when he came in
to trade, he informed me that the man was dead, though at that time he
was not lefs than three hundred miles from Prince of Wales’s Fort. He
affured me that the man was in perfeét health when he heard of my defign
- againft him; but almoft immediately afterwards became quite gloomy,
and refufing all kind of fuftenance, in a very few days died. After this I
was frequently applied to on the fame account, both by Matonabbee and
other leading Indians, but never thought proper to comply with their
requefts; by which means I not only preferved the credit [ gained on the
firft attempt, but always kept them in awe, andin fome degree of refpect
and obedience to me. In fact, ftrange as it may appear, it is almoft abfo-
Jutely neceffary that the chiefs at this place fhould profefs fomethinga
little fupernatural, to be able to deal with thofe people. The circum-
{tance here recorded is a faé& well known to Mr. William Jefferfon,
who fucceeded me at Churchill Fadtory, as well as to all the officers and

many of the common men who were at Prince of Wales’s Fort at the
time.

22

177%.

es ed

November.

222

177 Ef.

November.

December.
rift,

13th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

times a threat of this kind caufes the death of a
whole family ; and that without any blood being —
fhed, or the leaft apparent moleftation being of- _
fered to any of the parties. |

Having dried as many fifh and fifh-roes as we
could conveniently take with us, we once more
packed up our ftores, and, on the firft day of De-
cember, fet out, and continued our courfe to the
South Weft, leaving Anaw’d Lake on the South
Welt. Several of the Indians being out of order,
we made but fhort days journies.

From the firft to the thirteenth, we walked
along a courfe of {mall lakes, joined to each other
by {mall rivers, or creeks, that have communica-
tion with Anaw’d Lake. :

In our way we caught daily a few fifh by ang-
ling, and faw many beaver houfes; but thefe
were generally in fo difficult a fituation, and had
fo many ftones in the compofition of them, that
the Indians killed but few, and that at a great
expence of labour and tools.

On the thirteenth, one of the Indians killed
two deer, which were the firft that we had feen
fince the twentieth of October. So that duringa
period of near two months, we had lived on the
dried meat that we had prepared at Point Lake,
and a few fith; of which the latter was not very
confiderable in quantity, except what was caught
at Anaw’d Lake. Itis true, we alfo caught a few

rabbits, and at times the wood-partridges were
fo

NORTHERN OCEAN 22

fo plentiful, that the Indians killed confiderable 1771.
numbers of them with their bows and arrows; —~—~
but the number of mouths was fo great, that all ““"""
which was caught from our leaving Point Lake,
though if enumerated, they might appear very
confiderable, would not have afforded us all a
‘bare fubfiftence; for though | and fome others
experienced no real want, yet there were many
in our company who could {fcarcely be faid to
live, and would not have exifted at all, had it not
been for the dry meat we had with us.
When weleft the above-mentioned lakes we
fhaped a courfe more to the Southward, and on
the twenty-fourth, arrived at the North fide of 241».
the great Athapufcow Lake. In our way we faw
many Indian deer, and beaver were very plenti-
ful, many of which the Indians killed; but the
days were fo fhort, that the Sun only took a cir-
cuit of a few points of the compafs above the ho-
rizon, and did not, at its greateft altitude, rife,
half-way up the trees. The brilliancy of the
Aurora Borealis, however, and of the Stars, even
without the affiftance of the Mcon, made fome
amends for that deficiency ; for it was frequent-
ly fo light all night, that I could fee to read a ve-
ry {mall print. The Indians make to difference
between night and day when they are hunting of
beaver; but thofe zocfurnal lights are always
found infufficient for the purpofe of hunting deer
| or moofe.

*
J

I do

224

1771.
Qe nema somm

Decembex.

A JOURNEY TO THE
I do not remember to have met with any tra-__
vellers into high Northern latitudes, who remark- |
ed their having heard the Northern Lights make |
any noife in the air as they vary their colours or —
pofition; which may probably be owing to the:
want of perfect filence at the time they made their
obfervations on thofe meteors. [I can pofitively _
affirm, that in ftill nights I have frequently heard _
them make a ruftling and crackling noife, like
the waving of a large flag in a freth gale of wind.
This is not peculiar to the place of which I am _
now writing, as I have heard the fame noife very ©
plain at Churchill River; and in all probability _
it is only for want of attention that it has not |
been heard in every part of the Northern hemif-
phere where they have been known to fhine |
with any confiderable degree of luftre. Itis, how- _
ever, very probable that thefe lights are fome- —
times much nearer the earth than they are at
others, according to the ftate of the atmofphere,
and this may have a great effect on the found:
but the truth or falfehood of this conjecture I
leave to the determinations of thofe who are bet- _
ter fkilled in natural philofophy than I can pretend
to be. (
Indian deer (the only fpecies found in thofe
parts, except the moofe) are fo much larger than —
thofe which frequent the barren grounds to the |
North of Churchill River, that a fmall doe is |
equal in fize to a Northern buck. The hair of ©
the) |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

the former is of a fandy red during the Winter;
and their horns, though much ftronger, are not
fo long and branchy as are thofe of the latter
kind. Neither is the flefh of thofe deer fo much
efteemed by the Northern Indians, as that of the
fmaller kind, which inhabit the more Eaftern and
Northern parts of the country. Indeed, it muft
be allowed to be much coarfer, and of a different
flavour; inafmuch as the large Lincolnfhire mut-
ton differs from grafs lamb. I muft acknowledge,
however, that I always thought it very good.
This is that fpecies of deer which are found fo
plentiful near York Fort and Severn River. They
are alfo at times found in confiderable numbers
near Churchill River; and I have feen them kill-
ed as far North, near the fea-fide, as Seal River:
But the fmall Northern Indian deer are feldom
known to crofs Churchill River, except in fome
very extraordinary cold feafons, and when the
Northern winds have prevailed much in the pre-
ceding fall; for thofe vifits are always made in
the Winter. But though I own that the fiefh
of the large Southern deer is very good, I muft at

Northern deer, whether buck or doe, in their pro-
per feafon, is by far more delicious and the fineft
Ihave ever eaten, either in this country or any
other ; and is of that peculiar quality, that it ne-
ver cloys. I can affirm this from my own expe-
| rience; for, after living on it entirely, as it may
| be faid, for twelve or eighteen months fucceffive-

od ly,

225

1771.
Wyn

December.

the fame time confefs that the flefh of the fmal} ©

226

1771.

“+~— though when fith or fowl came in my way, it was

December.

A JOURNEY TO THE
ly, I fcarcely ever wifhed for a change of food;

very agreeable.

The beaver being fo plentiful, the attention of
my companions was chiefly engaged on them, as |
they not only furnifhed delicious food, but their
{kins proved a valuable acquifition, being a prin-
cipal article of trade, as well as a ferviceable one
for clothing, &c.

The fituation of the beaver-houfes is various. |

Where the beavers are numerous they are found |
to inhabit lakes, ponds, and rivers, as well as thofe
narrow creeks which connect the numerous lakes
with which this country abounds; but the two)
latter are generally chofen by them when the
depth of water and other circumftances are fuit~
able, as they have then the advantage of a current:
to convey wood and other neceflaries to their ha-
bitations, and becaufe, in general, they are more
difficult to be taken, than thofe that are built in
ftanding water.

There is no one particular part of a lake, pond,
river, or creek, of which the beavers make choice
for building their houfes on, in preference to}
another; for they fometimes build on points.|
fometimes in the hollow of a bay, and often on}
{mall iflands; they always chufe, however, thofe)
parts that have fuch a depth of water as will refifl
the froft in Winter, and prevent it from freezing
to the bottom.

The beaver that build their houfes in fmall ri-

vers

NORTHERN OCEAN. 229

vers or crecks, in which the water is liable tobe 1771.
drained off when the back fupplies are dried up a haat
by the froft, are wonderfully taught by infliné
to provide againft that evil, by making a dam
quite acrofs the river, at a convenient diftance
from their houfes. ‘This I look upon as the mott
curious piece of workmanfhip that is performed
by the beaver; not fo much for the neatnefs of
the work, as for its ftrength and real fervice;
and at the fame time it difcovers fuch a degree
of fagacity and forefight in the animal, of ap-
proaching evils, as is little inferior to that of
the human fpecies, and is certainly peculiar to
thofe animals.

‘The beaver-dams differ in fhape according to
the nature of the place in which they are built.
If the water inthe river or creek have but little
motion, the dam is almoft ftraight; but when
the current is more rapid, it is always made with
a confiderable curve, convex toward the ftream.
The materials made ufe of in thofe dams are
drift-wood, green willows, birch, and poplars, if
they can be got; alfo mud and ftones, intermixed
in fuch a manner as mutt evidently contribute to
the ftrength of the dam; but in thefe dams
there is no other order or method obferved, ex-
cept that of the work being carried on with a
regular fweep, and all the parts being made of
equal {trength.

In places which have been long frequented by
beaver undifturbed, their dams, by frequent re-

Q2 pairing,

228

1974.
es

a
December.

A JOURNEY TO THE

pairing, become a folid bank, capable of refitting —
a great force both of water and ice; and as the
willow, poplar, and birch generally take root
and fhoot up, they by degrees form a kind of re-
gular-planted hedge, which I have feen in fome |
places fo tall, that birds have built their nefts —
among the branches.

Though the beaver which build their houfes in —
lakes and other ftanding waters, may enjoy a fuffi- |
cient quantity of their favourite element~with- —
out the affiftance of adam, the trouble of getting —
wood and other neceffaries to their habitations —
without the help of a current, muft in fome mea-
fure counterbalance the other advantages which ©
are reaped from fuch a fituation; for it muft be |
obferved, that the beaver which build in rivers |
and creeks, always cut their wood above their
houfes, fo that the current, with little trouble,
conveys it to the place required.

The beaver-houfes are built of the fame mate-
tials as their dams, and are always proportioned in
fize to the number of inhabitants, which feldom
exceed four old, and fix or eight young ones; _
though, by chance, I have feen above double that
number. |

Thefe houfes, though not altogether unwor-
thy of admiration, fall very fhort of the general
defcription given of them; for inftead of order
or regulation being obferved in rearing them, |
they are of a much ruder ftructure than their
dams. %.

!

——

Thofe

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Thofe who have undertaken to defcribe the
infide of beaver-houfes, as having feveral apart-
ments appropriated to various ufes; fuch as eat-
ing, fleeping, ftore-houfes for provifions, and one
for their natural occafions, €%c. muft have been
very little acquainted with the fubjeét ; or, which
is ftill worfe, guilty of attempting to impofe on
the credulous, by reprefenting the greateft falfe-
hoods as real facts. Many years conftant refi-
dence among the Indians, during which | had
an opportunity of feeing feveral hundreds of thofe
houfes, has enabled me to affirm that every thing
of the kind is entirely void of truth; for, not-
withftanding the fagacity of thofe animals, it has
never been obferved that they aim at any other
conveniencies in their houfes, than to have a dry
place to lie on; and there they ufually eat their
victuals, which they occafionally take out of the
water.

It frequently happens, that fome of the large
houfes are found to have one or more partitions,
if they deferve that appellation; but that is no
more than a part of the main building, left by
the fagacity of the beaver to fupport the roof.
On fuch occafions it is common for thofe different
apartments, as fome are pleafed to call them, to
have no communication with each other but by
water ; fo that in fact they may be called double
or treble houfes, rather than different apartments
of the fame houfe. I have feen a large beaver-
houfe built in a fmallifland, that had near a dozen

apart-

229

1771.

December.

230

L771

— ro
December,

A JOURNEY TO THE

apartments under one roof: and, two or three
of thefe only excepted, none of them had any
communication with each other but by water. As
there were beaver enough to inhabit each apart-
ment, it is more than probable that each family
knew its own, and. always entered at their own
door, without having any farther conne¢tion
with their neighbours than a friendly intercourfe ;
and to join their united labours in erecting their
feparate habitations, and building their dams
where required. It is difficult to fay whether
their intereft on other occafions was anyways re-
ciprocal. ‘The Indians of my party killed twelve
old beaver, and twenty-five young and half-grown
ones out of the houfe above mentioned; and on
examination found that feveral had efcaped their
vigilance, and could not be taken but at the ex.
pence of more trouble than would be fuflicient
to take double the number in a lefs difficult
fituation*.

Travellers who affert that the beaver have two -
doors to their houfes, one on the land-fide, and
the other next the water, feem to be lefs acquaint. |
ed with thofe animals than others who affign them
an elegant fuite of apartments. Such a proceed-
ing would be quite contrary to their manner of
lite, and at the fame time would render their
houfes of no ufe, either to protect them from their

enemies,

* The difficulty here alluded. to, was the numberlefs vaults the beaver
had in the fides of the pond, and the immenfe thicknefS of the houfe in
fome parts.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

enemies, or guard them againft the extreme cold
| in Winter. .

The quiquehatches, or wolvereers, are great
| enemies to the beaver; and if there were a
paflage into their houfes on the land-fide, would
not leave one of them alive wherever they
came.

I cannot refrain from f{miling, when I read the
accounts of different Authors who have written
on the ceconomy of thofe animals, as there feems
to be aconteft between them, who {hall moft ex-
ceed in fiction. But the Compiler of the Won-
ders of Nature and Art feems, in my opinion, to
have fucceeded beft in this refpeét; as he has not
only collected all the fictions into which other
writers on the fubject have run, but has fo great-
ly improved on them, that little remains to be
added to his account of the beaver, befide a voca-
bulary of their language, a code of their laws, and
a fketch of their religion, to make it the moft
complete natural hiftory of that animal which can
_poffibly be offered to the public.

There cannot be a greater impofition, or indeed
a groffer infult, on common underftanding, than
the wifh to make us believe the ftories of fome of
the works afcribed to the beaver; and though it
is not to be fuppofed that the compiler of a gene-
ral work can be intimately acquainted with every
fubject of which it may be neceflary to treat, yet a
yery moderate fhare of underftanding is furely
fufficient to guard him againft giving credit to

fuch

131

bata
(ashen
December. 7

2.32

A JOURNEY TO THE

1771. fuch marvellous tales, however fmoothly they

December,

may be told, or however boldly they may be af
ferted, by the romancing traveller.

To deny that the beaver is poflefled of a very
confiderable degree of fagacity, would be as ab-
furdin me, as it is in thofe Authors who think
they cannot allow them too much. I fhall willing-
ly grant them their full fhare; but it is impof
fible for any one to conceive how, or by what
means, a beaver, whofe full height when ftand-
ing erect does not exceed two feet and a half, or
three feet at moft, and whofe fore-paws are not
much larger than a half-crown piece, can “drive
“ flakes as thick as a man’s leg into the ground
“three or four feet deep.” ‘Their “ wattling
“‘thofe ftakes with twigs,” is equally abfurd ;
** and their “‘plaiftering the infide of their houfes
“‘ with a compofition of mud and itraw, and
“ fwimming with mud and {tones on their tails,”
are ftill more incredible. The form and fize of
the animal, notwithftanding all its fagacity, will
not admit of its performing fuch feats; and it
would be as impoffible for a beaver to ufe its tail
as a trowel, except on the furface of the ground ©
on which it walks, as it would have been for Sir
James Thornhill to have painted the dome of St.
Paul’s cathedral without the afliftance of fcaffold-
ing. The joints of their tail will not admit of
their turning it over their backs on any occafion
whatever, as it has a natural inclination to bend
downwards; and it is not without fome confide-

rable

NORTHERN OCEAN.

rable exertion that they can keep it from trailing

233
1771.

onthe ground. This being the cafe, they cannot U~~U
fit erect like a fquirrel, which is their common December.

pofture: particularly when eating, or when they
are cleaning themfelves, as a cat or {quirrel does,
without having their tails bent forward between
their legs; and which may not improperly be call-
ed their trencher. ee
So far are the beaver from driving ftakes into
the ground when building their houfes, that they
lay moft of the wood crof{wife, and nearly hori-
zontal, and without any other order than that of
leaving a hollow or cavity in the middle; when
any unneceflary branches project inward, they
cut them off with their teeth, and throw them in
among the reft, to prevent the mud from falling
through the roof, It is a miftaken notion, that
the wood-work is firft completed and then plai-
ftered; for the whole of their houfes, as well as
their dams, are from the foundation one mafs of
wood and mud, mixed with ftones, if they can
be procured. The mud is always taken from
the edge of the bank, or the bottom of the creek
or pond, near the door of the houfe ; and though
their fore-paws are fo fmall, yet it is held clofe

up between them, under their throat, that they .

carry both mud and ftones; while they always
drag the wood with their teeth.

All their work is executed in the night ; and
they are fo expeditious.in completing it, that in
the courfe of one night I have known them to

have

234
1771.

eae
December,

A JOURNEY TO THE

have collected as much mud at their houfes as to
have amounted to fome thoufands of their little
handfuls; and when any mixture of grafs or ftraw _
has appeared in it, it has been, moft affuredly,
mere chance, owing to the nature of the ground |
from which they had taken it. As to their de- —
fignedly making a compofition for that purpofe, —
it is entirely void of truth. |

It isa great piece of policy in thofe animals, to |
cover, or plaifter, as it is ufually called, the out-
fide of their houfes every fall with frefh mud,
and as late as poflible in the Autumn, even when
the froft becomes pretty fevere ; as by this means |
it foon freezes as hard as a ftone, and prevents
their common enemy, the quiquehatch, from dif- —
turbing them during the Winter. And as they —
are frequently feen to walk over their work, and |
fometimes to give a flap with their tail, particular-
ly when plunging into the water, this has, with:
out doubt, given rife to the vulgar opinion that
they ufe their tails as a trowel, with which they,
plaifter their houfes ; whereas that flapping of the
tail is no more than a cuftom, which they always
preferve, even when they become tame and do-
meftic, and more particularly fo when they are
ftartled.

Their food chiefly confifts of a large root,
fomething refembling a cabbage-ftalk, which
grows at the bottom of the lakes and rivers.
They eat alfo the bark of trees, particularly that
of the poplar, birch, and willow; but the ice

pre-

NORTHERN Goran. 235,

preventing them from getting tothe landinWin- ,,,,.
ter, they have not any barks to feed upon during —~
that feafon, except that of fuch fticks as they cut ““"""
- down in Summer, and throw into the water op-
pofite the doors of their houfes; and as they ge-

_nerally eata great deal, the roots above mention-
ed conftitute a chief part of their food during
the Winter. In fummer they vary their diet,
by eating various kinds of herbage, and fuch
berries as grow near their haunts during that
feafon.

When the ice breaks up in the fpring, the bea-
ver always leave their houfes, and rove about the
whole Summer, probably in fearch of a more
commodious fituation; but in cafe of not fuc-
ceeding in their endeavours, they return again to
their old habitations a little before the fall of the
leaf, and Jay in their Winter ftock of woods,
They feldom begin to repair the houfes till the
froft commences, and never finifh the outer-coat
till the cold is pretty fevere, as hath been already
‘mentioned.

When they fhift their habitations, or when the
increafe of their number renders it neceflary to
make fome addition to their houfes, or to erect
new ones, they begin felling the wood for thefe
purpofes early in the Summer, but feldom begin
to build till the middle or latter end of Auguft,

and never complete their houfes till the cold wea-
ther be fet in.

Not-

236
1771.

December.

A JOURNEY TO THE

Notwithftanding what has been fo repeatedly
reported of thofe animals affembling in great bo- —
dies, and jointly erecting large towns, cities, and _
commonwealths, as they have fometimes been
called, I am confident, from many circumftances, _
that even where the greateft numbers of beaver _
are fituated in the neighbourhood of each other,
their labours are not carried on jointly in the —
erection of their different habitations, nor have
they any reciprocal intereft, except it be fuch as
live immediately under the fame roof ; and then
it extends no farther than to build or keepadam ©
which is common to feveral houfes. In fuchca- |
fes it is natural to think that every one whore-
ceives benefit from fuch dams, fhould affift in ere@t-
ing it, being fenfible of its utility to all. |

Perfons who attempt to take beaver in Winter |
fhould be thoroughly acquainted with their man- —
ner of life, otherwife they will have endlefs trou- |
ble to effect their purpofe, and probably with- —
out fuccefs in the end; becaufe they have always —
a number of holes in the banks, which ferve them
as places of retreat when any injury 1s offered to
their houfes; and in general it is in thofe holes
that they are taken.

When the beaver which are fituated in a fmall
river or creek are to be taken, the Indians fome-
times find it neceflary to fiake the river acrofs,
to prevent them from pafling ; after which, they
endeavour to find out all their holes or places of
retreat in the banks. This requires much prac-

tice

NORTHERN OCEAN.

tice and experience to accomplifh, and is perform-
ed in the following manner: Every man being
| furnifhed with an ice-chifel, lafhes it to the end
| of a {mall ftaff about four or five feet long; he
then walks along the edge of the banks, and
keeps knocking his chifels againft the ice. Thofe
who are well acquainted with that kind of work
well know by the found of the ice when they
are oppofite to any of the beaver’ holes or vaults.
As foon as they fufpect any, they cut a hole
through the ice big enough to admit an old bea-
ver; and in this manner proceed till they have
found out all their places of retreat, or at leaft as
many of them as poffible. While the principal
men are thus employed, fome of the underftrap-
pers, and the women, are bufy in breaking open
the houfe, which at times is no eafy tafk ; for I
have frequently known thefe houfes to be five
and fix feet thick; and one in particular, was
more than eight feet thickonthecrown. When
the beaver find that their habitations are invaded,
they fly to their holes in the banks for fhelter ;
and on being perceived by the Indians, which is
eafily done, by attending to the motion of the wa-
ter, they block up the entrance with ftakes of
wood, and then haul the beaver out of its hole,
_ either by hand, if they can reach it, or with a
large hook made for that purpofe, which is faften-

ed to the end of a long ftick.
In this kind of hunting, every man has the fole
right to all the beaver caught by him in the holes
or

si
1771.

December,

——

238
oly ae

December,

A JOURNEY TO THE

or vaults; and as this is a conftant rule, each per- 9
fon takes care to mark fuch as he difcovers, by |
flicking up the branch of a tree, or fome other |
diftinguifhing poft, by which he may know them. —
All that are caught in the houfe alfo are the pro- —
perty of the perfon who finds it. |
The fame regulations are obferved, and the |
fame procefs ufed in taking beaver that are found |
in lakes and other ftanding waters, except it be
that of ftaking the lake acrofs, which would be |
both unneceflary andimpoffible. ‘faking beaver-
houfes in thefe fituations is generally attended —
with lefs trouble and more fuccefs than in the —
former. |
The beaver is an animal which cannot keep
under water long at a time; fo that when their —
houfes are broke open, and all their places of re- —
treat difcovered, they have but one choice left, as —
it may be called, either to be taken in their houf- —
es or their vaults: in general they prefer the lat- —
ter; for where there is one beaver caught in the —
houfe, many thoufands are taken in their vaults
inthe banks. Sometimes they are caught in nets, —
and in the Summer very frequently in traps. In
Winter they are very fat and delicious; but the
trouble of rearing their young, the thinnefs of —
their hair, and their conftantly roving from place
to place, with the trouble they have in providing _
againft the approach of Winter, generally keep —
them very poor during the fummer feafon, at |
which time their ficfh is but indifferent eating,
and

‘ae

NORTHERN OCEAN. 239

and their fkins of fo little value, that the Indians 1771.
generally finge them, even tothe amount of ma-
ny thoufands in one Summer. They have from
two to five young, at atime. Mr. Dobbs, in his
Account of Hudfon’s Bay, enumerates no lefs
than eight different kinds of beaver; but it muft
be underftood that they are all of one kind and
fpecies; his diftinétions arife wholly from the
different feafons of the year in which they are
killed, and the different ufes to which their fkins
are applied which is the fole reafon that they vary
fo much in value.

Jofeph Lefranc, or Mr. Dobbs for him, fays,
that a good hunter can kill fix hundred beaver
in one feafon, and can only carry one hundred to
market. If that was really the cafe in Lefranc’s
time, the canoes muft have been much fmaller
than they are at prefent; for it is well known
that the generality of the canoes which have vifit-
ed the Company’s Factories for the laft forty or
fifty years, are capable of carrying three hundred
beaver-fkins with great eafe, exclufive of the Indi-
ans luggage, provifions, &9c.

If ever a particular Indian killed fix hundred
beaver in one Winter, (which is rather to be
doubted,) it is more than probable that many in
his company did not kill twenty, and perhaps
fome none at all, fo that by diftributing them
among thofe who had bad fuccefs, and others who
had no abilities for that kind of hunting, there

would

a
December.

240

E7RE.

cee ace
December,

A JOURNEY TO THE

would be no neceflity of leaving them to rot, or
for finging them in the fire, as related by the
Author. During my refidence among the Indi-
ans I have known fome individuals kill more

_ beaver, and other heavy furrs, in the courfe of a

Winter, than their wives could manage ; but the
overplus was never wantonly deftroyed, but al-
ways given to their relations, or to thofewho —
had been lefs fuccefsful; fo that the whole of the _
great hunters labours were always brought to the
Factory. It is indeed too frequently a cuftom
among the Southern Indians to finge many ot-
ters, as well as beaver ;.but this is feldom done,
except in Summer, when their fkins are of fo lit-
tle value as to be fcarcely worth the duty; on
which account it has been always thought im-
politic to encourage the natives to kill fuch valu-
able animals at a time when their fkins are notin

feafon. |
‘The white beaver, mentioned by Lefranc, are
fo rare, that inftead of being “ blown upon by the
Company’s Factors,” as he afferts, I rather doubt
whether one-tenth of them ever faw one during —
the time of their refidence in this country. In
the courfe of twenty years experience in the
countries about Hudfon’s Bay, though I travel-
led fix hundred miles to the Weft of the fea-coaft,
I never faw but one white beaver-fkin, and it had
many reddifh and brown hairs along the ridge of
the back, and the fides and belly were of a glofly
filvery

NORTHERN OCEAN. 24k

filvery white. It was deemed by the Indians a yoxy,
great curiofity; and I offered three times the eee 9
ufual price fora few of them, if they could be got; das ie
put in the courfe of ten years that I remained

there afterwards, | could not procure another ;

which is a convincing proof there is no fuch thing

as a breed of that kind, and that a variation from

the ufual colour is very rare.

Black beaver, and that of a beautiful glofs, are
not uncommon: perhaps they are more plentiful
at Churchill than at any other Fa@tory in the
Bay; but it is rare to get more than twelve
or fifteen of their fkins in the courfe of one year’s
trade.

Lefranc, as an Indian, muft have known better
than to have informed Mr. Dobbs that the bea-
ver have from ten to fifteen young ata time; or
if he did, he muft have deceived him wilfully ;
for the Indians, by killing them in all ftages of
geftation, have abundant opportunities of afcer-
taining the ufual number of their offspring. I
have feen fome hundreds of them killed at the

~feafons favourable for thofe obfervations, and
never could difcover more than fix young in one
female, and that only in two inftances; for the
ufual number, as I have before obferved, is from
two to five.

Befides this unerring method of afcertaining
the real number of young which any animal has
at a time, there is another rule to go by, with

R re{pect

242

1771.
ee

December.

A JOURNEY TO THE

refpect to the beaver, which experience has prov-
ed to the Indians never to vary or deceive them,
that is by diflection; for on examining the womb
of a beaver, even at a time when not with young,
there is always found a hardifh round knob for
every young fhe had at the laft litter. This is a
circumftance I have been particularly careful to
examine, and can affirm it to be true, from real
experience.

Moft of the accounts, nay I may fay all the
accounts now extant, refpecting the beaver, are

_ taken from the authority of the French who have

refided in Canada; but thofe accounts differ fo
much from the real ftate and ceconomy of all the
beaver to the North of that place, as to leave
great room to fufpect the truth of them altoge-
ther. In the firft place, the affertion that they
have two doors to their houfes, one on the land-
fide, and the other next the water, is, as I have
before obferved, quite contrary to fact and com-
mon fenfe, as it would render their houfes of no
ufe to them, cither as places of fhelter from the
inclemency of the extreme cold in Winter, or as
aretreat from their common enemy the quique-
hatch. The only thing that could have made
M. Du. Pratz, and other French writers, conjec-
ture that fuch a thing did exift, muft have been
from having feen fome old beaver houfes which
had been taken by the Indians; for they are al-
ways obliged to make a hole in one fide of the

houfe

NORTHERN OCEAN. 243

houfe before they can drive them out; anditis 1771,
more than probable that in fo mild a climate as -~~—”
i December.

Canada, the Indians do generally make thofe holes
on the land-fide*, which without doubt gave rife
to the fuggettion.

In refpect to the beaver dunging in their houfes,
as fome perfons aflert, it is quite wrong as they
always plunge into the water to doit. Iam the
better enabled to make this affertion, from hav-
ing kept feveral of them till they became fo do-
mefticated as to anfwer to their name, and follow
‘thofe to whom they were accuftomed, in the fame
manner as a dog would do; and they were as
much pleafed at being fondled, as any animal I
ever faw. I hada houfe built for them, anda
{mall piece of water before the door, into which
they always plunged when they wanted to eafe
nature; and their dung being of light a fubftance,
immediately rifes and floats on the furface, then
feparates and fubfides to the bottom. When
the Winter fets in fo as to freeze the water folid,
they ftill continue their cuftom of coming out
of their houfe, and dunging and making water
on the ice; and when the weather was fo cold
that I was obliged to take them into my houfe,

R 2 they

* The Northern Indians think that the fagacity of the beaver direéts
them to make that part of their houfe which fronts. the Noith much
thicker than any other part, with a view of defending themfelves from
the cold winds which generally blow from that quarter during the Win-
ter; and for this reafon the Northern Indians generally break open that
fide of the beaver-houfes which exa@tly front the South,

244 A JOURNEY TO THE |

771. they always went into a large tub of water which |
U~— I fet for that purpofe: fo that they made not the
Pecem®" Jeaft dirt, though they were kept in my own fit-

ting-room, where they were the conftant compa-
nions of the Indian women and children, and
were fo fond of their company, that when the
Indians were abfent for any confiderable time,
the beaver difcovered great figns of uneafinefs,
and on their return fhewed equal marks of plea-
fure, by fondling on them, crawling into their |
laps, laying on their backs, fitting ereé like a
{quirrel, and behaving to them like children who
fee their parents but feldom. In general, during
the Winter they lived on the fame food as the
women did, and were remarkably fond of rice
and plum-pudding: they would eat partridges
and frefh venifon very freely, but I never tried
them with fifh, though I have heard they will at |
times prey on them. In fact, there are few of

the granivorous animals that may not be brought |
tobe carnivorous. It is well known that our do- |
meftic poultry will eat animal food: thoufands
of geefe that come to London market are fattened _
-on tallow-craps ; and our horfes in Hudfon’s Bay |
-would not-only eat all kinds of animal food, but
alfo drink freely of the wath, or pot-liquor, in-
tended for the hogs. And we are aflured by the
moft authentic ‘Authors, that in Iceland, not only
black cattle, but alfo the fheep, are almoft entire-
ly fed on fifh and fifh-bones during the Winter |

feafon. |

NORTHERN OCEAN. op) 45:

=

feafon. Even in the Ifles of Orkney, and that in L771.
Summer, the fheep attend the ebbing of the tide
as regular as the Efquimaux curlew, and go down
to the fhore which the tide has left, to feed on
the fea-weed. This, however, is through necel-
fity, for even the famous Ifland. of Pomona* will
not afford them an exiftence above high-water-
mark.

With refpect to the inferior, or flave-beaver, of
which fome Authors fpeak, it is, in my opinion,
very difficult for thofe who are beft acquainted
with the ceconomy of this animal to determine
whether there are any that deferve that appellati-
on or not. It fometimes happens, that a beaver
is caught, which has but a very indifferent coat,
and which has broad patches on the back, and
fhoulders almoft wholly without hair. This is
the only foundation for afferting that there isan
inferior, or flave-beaver, among them. And
when one of the above defcription is taken, it is
perhaps too ‘haftily inferred that the hair is worn
off from thofe parts by carrying heavy !oads :
whereas it is moit probable that it is caufed by a
diforder that attacks them fomewhat fimilar to
the mange; for were that falling off of the hair
occafioned by performing extra labour, it is na-
tural to think that inftances of it would be more
frequent than they are ; as itis rare to fee one of

them

December.

* This being the largeft of the Orkney Iflands, is called by the Inhabi-
tants the Main Land,

246 A JOURNEY TO THE

1771, them in the courfe of feven or ten years. Ihave
feen a whole houfe of thofe animals that had no-—
thing on the furface of their bodies but the fine
foft down; all the long hairs having molted off.
This and every other deviation from the general
run is undoubtedly owing to fome particular dif-
order.

ey armed
December,

CHAP.

NORTHERN OCEAN. 247

Renda ALP. VELL.

Tranfactions and Remarks from our Arrival on
the South Side of the Athapufcow Lake, till our
Arrival at Prince of Wales’s Fort on Churchill
River.

Crofs the Athapufcow Lake.—Defcription of it and
its productions, as far as could be difcovered in
Winter, «when the fnow was on the ground. Fifh
found in the take.~-Defcription of the buffalo ;—
of the moofe or elk, and the method of dreffing their
Sains. —Find a woman alone that had not feen a
human face for more than feven months,—Her ac-
count how /he came to be in that fituation ; and her
curious method of procuring a livelibood.— Many of
my Indians wreftled for her.—Arrive at the Great
Athapufcow River.—Walk along the fide of the Ri-
ver for feveral days, and then ferike off to the Eaft-
ward.—Difficulty in getting through the woods in
many places.—Meet with fome ftrange Northern
Indians on their return from the Fort.—Meet more
Jirangers, whom my companions plundered, and from
whom they took one of their young women.—Curious
manner of life which thofe ftrangers lead, and the
reafon they gave for roving fo far from their ufual
refidence.—Leave the fine level country of the Atha-
pufcows, and arrive at the Stony Hills of the Nor-
thern Indian Country.—Meet fome range Northern
Indians, one of whom carried a letter for me to

Prince

248

A JOURNEY TO THE

Prince of Wales’s Fort, in March one thoufand feven
hundred and feventy-one, and now gave me an an-
fwer to it, dated twentieth of “fune Jollowing.—
Indians begin preparing wood-work and birch-rind
Jor canoes.—The equincttial gale very fevere.—
Indian method of running the moofe deer down byl
Speed of foot.—Arrival at Theeleyaza River.—
See fome firangers.—T he brutality of my compani-
ons.—-A tremendous gale and Jnow-drift.— Meet
with more firangers ;—remarks on it.—Leave all
the elderly people and children, and proceed direétlly
to the Fort.—Stop to build canoes, and then ad-
vance.—Several of the Indians die through hunger,
and many others are obliged to decline the Journey for
want of ammunition.—A violent form and inunda-
tion, that forced us to the top of a high bill, where
we fujered great diftrefs for more than two days.
—Kill feveral deer.—The Indians method of pre- |
Jerving the fih without the affiftance of falt.—See
Jeveral Indians that were going to Knapp’s Bay.—
Gaine of all kinds remarkably plentiful. — Arrive at
the Fadory.

¥

17724 A TER expending fome days in hunting bea-
Sennen pene?

january.

goth.

ver, we proceeded to crofs the Athapuf-

cow Lake; but as we had loft much time in
hunting deer and beaver, which were very plen-
tiful on fome of the iflands, it was the ninth of
January before we atrived on the South fide.

This lake from the beft information which I)

could get from the natives, is about one hundred

and

AWINTER VIEWinthe. \THAPUS COW LAKE by SAMWEAK NEY 71.

NORTHERN OCEAN.
and twenty leagues long from Eaft to Weft, and

249
1772.

twenty wide from North to South. The point ——~

where we crofled it is faid to be the narroweft.

Tt is full of iflands; moft of which are clothed
with fine iall. poplars, birch, and pines, and are
well flocked with Indian deer. On fome of the

large iflands we alfo found feveral beaver; but
‘this muft be underfitood only of fuch iflands as
had large ponds in them; for not one beaver-
_houfe was to be feen on the margin of any of

them. .

The lake is ftored with great quantities of very
fine fifh; particularly between the iflands, which
in fome parts are fo clofe to each other as to form
very narrow channels, like little rivers, in which
I found (when angling for fifh) a confiderable
current fetting to the Kaftward.

The fifh that are common in this lake, as well
as in moft of the other lakes in this country, are
pike, trout, perch, barble, tittameg, and methy ;
the two lait are names given by the natives to

" two fpecies of fifh which are found only in this
‘country. Befides thefe, we alfo caught another

kind of fith, which is faid by the Northern Indi-
ans to be peculiar to this lake; at leait none of
the fame kind have been met with in any other.
The body of this fifh much refembles a pike in

| thape; but the fcales, which are very large and
’ Riff, are of a beautifully bright filver colour: the

mouth is large, and fituated like that of a pike ;

_ but when open, much refembles that of a fiurgeon;

' and

January.

250

19772,

January.

A JOURNEY TO THE

and though not provided with any teeth, takes a |
bait as ravenoufly asa pike oratrout. The fizes
we caught were from two feet long to four feet. _
Their flefh, though delicately white, is very foft, _
and has fo rank a tafte, that many of the Indians,
except they are in abfolute want, will not eat it. —
The northern Indians call this fifh Shees. The |
trout in this lake are of the largeft fize I ever faw: _
fome that were caught by my companions could
not, I think, be lefs than thirty-five or forty |
pounds weight. Pike are alfo of an incredible ©
fize in this extenfive water; here they are feldom —

molefted, and have multitudes of fmaller fith to
prey upon. If I fay that I have feen fome of |
thefe fifh that were upwards of forty pounds |
weight, I am fure I do not exceed the truth. |
Immediately on our arrival on the South fide
of the Athapufcow Lake, the fcene was agreeably _
altered, from an entire jumble of rocks and hills,
for fuch is all the land on the North fide, toa )
fine level country, in which there was not a hill |
to be feen, or a ftone to be found: fo that fuch |
of my companions as had not brafs kettles, load-
ed their fledges with ftones from fome of the laft |
iflands, to boil their victuals with in their birchs |
rind kettles, which will not admit of being expof- |
ed to the fire. They therefore heat ftones and |
drop them into the water in the kettle to make
it boil. | !
Buffalo, moofe, and beaver were very plentiful; |
and we could difcover, in many parts through
which |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

which we pafled, the tracks of martins, foxes,
quiquehatches, and other animals of the furr kind;
fo that they were by no means {fcarce: but my
companions never gave themfelves the Jeaft trou-
ble to catch any of the three laft mentioned ani-
mals; for the buffalo, moofe, and beaver engaged
all their attention ; perhaps principally fo on ac-
count of the excellency of their flefh; whereas
the flefh of the fox and quiquehatch are never
eaten by thofe people, except when they are in
the greateft diftrefs, and then merely to fave life.
their reafons for this fhall be given in a fubfequent
part of my Journal.

The buffalo in thofe parts, I think, arein gene-
ral much larger than the Englifh black cattle;
particularly the bulls, which, though they may
not in reality be taller than the largeft fize of the
Englifh oxen, yet to me always appeared to be

251

1772.
as
January.

much larger. In fact, they are fo heavy, that

when fix or eight Indians are in company at the
fkinning of a large bull, they never attempt to
turn it over while entire, but when the upper
fide is fkinned, they cut off the leg and fhoulder,
rip up the belly, take out all the inteftines, cut off
the head, and make it as light as poflible, before
| they turn it to fkin the under fide. The fkin is
in fome places of an incredible thicknefs, par-
| ticularly about the neck, where it often exceeds
| an inch. The horns are fhort, black, and
almoft ftraight, but very thick at the roots or

-bafe.
The

252 A JOURNEY TO THE

1772, The head ofan old bull is of a great fize and.
ieee weight indeed: fome which I have feen were fo —
large, that I could not without difficulty lift them

from the ground*; but the heads of the cows are.
much fmaller. Their tails are, in general, about.
afoot long, though fome appear to be exclufive _

of the long brufh of hair at the end, longer.
The-hair on the tails of the bulls is generally of a |

fine glofly black; but the brufh at the end of the
cows’ tails is always of a rufty brown, probably
owing to being flained with their urine.

The hair of the body is foft and curled, fome-

what approaching to wool; it is generally of a
fandy brown, and of an equal length and thick.

nefs all over the body: but on the head and |
neck it is much longer than it is on any. other
part. we ;

The Indians, after reducing all the parts of the

fkin to an equal thicknefs by fcraping, drefs them |

in the hair for clothing; when they are light, |

foft, warm, and durable. They alfo drefs fome |

of thofe fkins into leather without the hair, of |

; which they make tents and fhoes; but the grain |

iS

* It is remarked by Mr. Cate(by, in his defcription of this animal, that |
no man can lift one of their heads. Thofe I faw inthe Athapufcow coun=
try are fuch as I have defcribed; and I am affured by the Company’s fer=
vants, as well as the Indians who live near Hudfon’s Houfe, that the buf-
falos there are much fimaller; fo that the fpecies Mr. Catefby faw, of |
wrote of, muft have been much larger, or have had very large heads; for
it is well known that a man of any tolerable ftrength can lift two and
ahalf, or three hundred pounds weight. i think that the heads of his |
buffalos are too heavy for the bodies, as the bodies of thofe I faw in the
Athapufcow country appear to have been of equal weight with his,

‘NORTHERN OCEAN.

is remarkably open and fpungy, by no means
equal in goodnefs to that of the fkin of the moofe :
nor am I certain that the curriers or tanners in
Europe could manufacture thefe fkins in fuch a
‘manner as to render them of any confiderable
value; for, to appearance, they are of the fame
quality which the fkins of the mufk-ox, which
are held in fo little eftimation in England, that
when a number of them was fent home from
Churchill Factory, the Company iflued out orders
the year following, that unlefs they could be pur-
chafed from the Indians at the rate of four fkins
for one beaver, they would not anfwer the expence
of fending home; a great proof of their being of
very little value. ,
The buffalos chiefly delight in wide open
plains, which in thofe parts produce very long
coarfe grafs, or rather a kind of {mall flags and
rufhes, upon which they feed ; but when purfued
they always take to the woods. They are of
fuch an amazing ftrength, that when they fly
through the woods from a purfuer, they frequent-
ly brufh down trees as thick as a man’s arm ;
-and be the {now ever fo deep, fuch is their ftrength
and agility that they are enabled to plunge
ahrough it fafter than the fwifteft Indian can run
in fnow-fhoes. ‘Yo this Ihave been an cye-wit-
ne{s many times, and once had the vanity to think
that I could have Kept pace with them; but
| though I was at that time celebrated for sabe
| particularly fleet of foot in {now-fhoes, 1 foon
| found

202

<J'9
1772.

January.

254

1772.
‘= withftanding they were then plunging through —

January.

A JOURNEY TO THE

found that I was no match for the buffalos, not- |

fuch deep fnow, that their bellies made a'trench |
in it as large as if many heavy facks had been
hauled through it. Of all the large beafts in thofe _
parts the buffalo is eafieft to kill, and the moofe |
are the moft difficult; neither are the deer very
eafy to come at, except in windy weather: indeed
it requires much praétice, and a great deal of pa-
tience, to flay any of them, as they will by no
means fuffer, a direct approach, unlefs the hunter
be entirely fheltered by woods or willows. The
flefh of the buffalo is exceedingly good eating; —
and fo entirely free from any difagreeable {mell or |
tafte, that it refembles beef as nearly as poflible:
the flefh of the cows, when fome time gone with —
calf, is efteemed the fineft ; and the young calves, —
cut out of their bellies, are reckoned a great deli-
cacy indeed. ‘The bunch on their backs, or more
properly on their fhoulders, is not a large flefhy
jump, as fome fuppofe, but is occafioned by the
bones that form the withers being continued to
a greater length than in moft other animals.
The fleth which furrounds this part being fo equal-
ly intermixed with fat and lean, is reckoned
among the niceft bits. The weight, however, is
by no means equal to what has been commonly
reported. The tongue is alfo very delicate ; and
what is moft extraordinary, when the beatts are
in the pooreft ftate, which happens regularly at
certain feafons, their tongues are then very fat

and |

NORTHERN OCEAN. 265

_ and fine; fome fay, fatter than when they are in 1772.
_ the beft order; the truth of which, I will not ~—.—~
confirm. They are fo efteemed here, however, eres:
that many of them are brought down to the
Company’s Factory at York as prefents, and are
_efteemed a great luxury, probably for no other
reafon but that they are far-fetched; for they

are by no means {fo large, and I think them not

fo fine, as a neat’s tongue in England.

_ The moofe deer is alfo a large beaft, often ex-
ceeding the largeft horfe both in height and bulk;

but the length of the legs, the bulk of the body,

the fhortnefs of the neck, and the uncommon
length of the head and ears, without any appear-

ance of atail, make them have a very aukward
appearance. The males far exceed the females

in fize, and differ from them in colour. The

hair of the male, which is long, hollow, and foft,

like that of a deer, is at the points nearly black,

but a little way under the furface it is of an afh-
colour, and at the roots perfe@ly white. The

hair of the female is of a fandy brown, and in

fome parts, particularly under the throat, the

belly, and the flank, is nearly white at the fur-

face, and moft delicately fo at the root.

Their legs are fo long, and their necks fo fhort,
that they cannot graze on level ground like other
animals, but are obliged to brouze on the tops of
‘large plants and the leaves of trees during the
Summer ; ; and in Winter they always feed on the
jtops of willows, and the {mall branches of the
birch.

256

1772. |
\—— found during that feafon but ia fuch places as can”

ji anuary.

A JOURNEY TO THE

birch-tree; on which account they are never’

afford them a plentiful fupply of their favourite
food: and though they have no fore-teeth in the —
upper-jaw, yet I have often feen willows and {mall
birch-trees cropped by them, in the fame manner
as if they had been cut by a gardener’s fheers,”
though fome of them were not {mailer than com-_
mon pipe-ftems; they feem particularly partial to ¢
the red willow.

In Summer they are generally found to fre-)
quent the banks of rivers and lakes, probably:
with no other view than to have the benefit of |
getting into the water, to avoid the innumerable
multitudes of mufkettos and other flies that pefter
them exceedingly during that feafon. There is
alfo a variety of water-plants, of which the moofe.
are very fond, and which are adapted to their
neceflities in a peculiar manner during the Sums
mer feafon, as they can eafily brouze on them
when nearly emerged in water, to avoid the tor-
ment of the flies. |

The head of the moofe is, as I have obferved,
remarkably long and large, not very unlike that.
ofa horfe; but the nofe and noftrils are at
leaft twice as large. The ears are about a foot
long, and large; and they always fland ered.
Their faculty of hearing is fuppofed to be more
acute than either their fight or feent; which
makes it very difficult to kill them, elpecialiga as”

the bem in thofe parts have no other method’
of

NORTHERN OCEAN. 257

of doing it but by creeping after them, among the y79,
| trees and bufhes, till they get within gun-fhot Py
taking care always to keep to leeward of the
mioofe, for fear of being overheard. In Summer,
when they frequent the margins of rivers and
lakes, they are often killed by the Indians in the
water, while they are crofling rivers, or wim,
ming from the main to iflands, &’c. When purfu.
ed in this manner, they are the moft inoffenfive
of all animals, never making any refiftance ; and
the young ones are fo fimple, that I remember to
have feen an Indian paddle his canoe up to one
of them, and take it by the poll without the leaf
oppofition : the poor harmlefs animal feeming at
the fame time as contented along fide the canoe,
as if fwimming by the fide of its dam, and look-
ing up in our faces with the fame fearlefs inno-
cence that a houfe-lamb would, making ufe of its
fore-foot almoft every inftant to clear its eyes of
mufkettoes, which at that time were remarkably
numerous.

I have alfo feen women and boys kill the old:
moofe in this fituation, by knocking them on the
head with a hatchet ; and in the Summer of one
thoufand feven hundred and feventy-five, when
Twas on my paflage from Cumberland Houfe to
York Fort, two boys killed a fine buck moofe in
the water, by forcing a ftick up its fundament ;
for they had neither gun, bow, nor arrows with
them. The common deer are far more dangerous
| to approach in canoes, as they kick up their hind
| S legs

a58

A JOURNEY TO THE

1772. legs with fuch violence as to endanger any birch.

January.

rind canoe that comes within their reach; for
which reafon all the Indians who kill deer upon
the water are provided with a long ftick that will
reach far beyond the head of the canoe.

The moofe are alfo the eafieft to tame and do.
mefticate of any of the deer kind. I have repeat.
edly feen them at Churchill as tame as fheep*,
and even more fo; for they would follow their
keeper any diftance from home, and at his call
return with him, without the leaft trouble, or
ever offering to deviate from the patht.

The flefh of the moofe is very good, though the
grain is but coarfe, and it is much tougher than
any other kind of venifon. The nofeis moft ex-
cellent, as is alfo the tongue, though by no means
fo fat and delicate as that of the common deer.
It is perhaps worth remarking, that the livers of —

the

* The moofe formerly fent to his Majefty was from that place. A young
male wasalfo put on board the fhip, but it died on the paflage, otherwife it
is probable they might have propagated in this country.

t Since the above was written, the fame Indian that brought all the
above-mentioned young moofe to the Faétory had, in the year 1777, two
others, fo tame, that when onhis paflage to Prince of Wales’s Fortin a |
canoe, the moofe always followed him along the bank of the river; and at”
night, or ou any other occafion when the Indains landed, the young moofe
generally came and fondled on them, in the fame manner as the moft do-_
meftic animal would have done, and never offered to firay from the tents.
Unfortunately, in crofling a deep bay in one of the lakes, (on a fine day,)
all the Indians that were not interefted in the fafe-landing of thofe engag-
ing creatures, paddled from point to point ; and the man that owned them,
not caring to go fo far about by himfelf, accompanied the others, in hopes —
they would follow him round as ufual; but at night the young moofe did '
not arrive; and as the howling of fome wolves was heardin that quarter,
it was fuppofed they had been devoured by them, as they were never af-
terward feen,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

the moofe are never found, not even at any time

fuet ; but all the external fat is foft, like that of
a breaft of mutton, and when put into a bladder,
is as fine as marrow. In this they differ from all
the other fpecies of deer, of which the external
fat is as hard as that of the kidnies.

- The moofe in all their actions and attitudes ap-
pear very uncouth, and when difturbed, never
run, only make a kind of trot, which the length
of their legs enables them to do with great {wift-

the country they inhabit free from under-wood,
and dry under-foot, fo that horfemen and dogs
might follow them, they would become an eafy
prey,°as they are both tender-footed and fhort-
winded: But of this more hereafter*.

The fkins of the moofe, when drefled by the
natives, make excellent tent-covers and fhoe-lea-
ther; andin fact every other part of their cloth-
ing. ‘Thefe, like the fkins of the buffalo, are of
very unequal thicknefs. Some of the Indian wo-
men, who are acquainted with the manufacture
of them, will, by means of fcraping, render them
as even as a piece of thick cloth, and when well
drefled they are very foft; but not being dreff-

5 2 ed

*Mr. Du Pratz, in his defeription of this animal, fays, it is never found
\ farther North than Cape Bretonand Nova Scotia: but I have feen them
‘in great numbers in the Athapufcaw Country, which cannot be much
\fhort of 60° North latitude.

no gall. ‘The fat of the inteftines is hard, like Js

nefs, and apparently with much eafe; but were

259
Lar ot

of the year; and, like the other deer, they have ——~

aunary.

360 A JOURNEY TO THE
1772. ed in oil, they always grow hard after being wet, |
i~— unlefs great care be taken to keep rubbing them
Janey all the time they are drying. The fame may be’ |

faid of all the Indian-dreffed leather, except that |
of the wewafkifh, which will wath as well as |
fhammoy-leather, and always preferve its foftnefs. |
The female moofe never have any horns, but the”
males have them of a prodigious fize and weight,
and very different in fhape from thofe of the-
common deer. The extremity of each horn is
palmated to the fize of a common fhovel, from
which a few fhort branches fhoot out; and the:
fhaft of the horn is frequently as large as a com-',
mon man’s wrift. They fhed them annually like |
the common deer. The horns of the moofe are
frequently found to exceed fixty pounds weight; |
and their texture, though of a large fize and of |
fuch rapid growth, is much harder than any other
{pecies of deer-horns in thofe parts. |
Though the flefh of the moofe is efteemed by |
moft Indians both for its flavour and fubftance, |
yet the Northern Indians of my crew did not |
reckon either it or the flefh of the buffalo fub- |
ftantial food. ‘Vhis I fhould think entirely proe |
ceeded from prejudice, efpecially with refpect to |
the moofe; but the flefh of the buffalo, though fo |
fine to the eye, and pleafing to the tafte, is fo |
light and eafy of digeftion, as not to be deemed |
fubfiantial food by any Indian in this country,
either Northern or Southern. The moofe have |
from one to three young at a time, and generally
bring

NORTHERN OCEAN. 268

bring them forth in the latter end of April, or 1772,
beginning of May. ferme

Soon after our arrival no the South-fide of
Athapufcow Lake, Matonabbee propofed conti-
nuing our courfe in the South Weft quarter, in
hopes.of meeting fome of the Athapufcow Indi-
ans; becaufe 1 wifhed, if poflible, to purchafe a
tent, and other ready-dreffed fkins from them;
asa fupply of thofe articles would at this time
have been of material fervice to us, being in great
‘want both of tents and fhoe-leather: and though
my companions were daily killing either moofe or
buffalo, the weather was fo exceflively cold, as to
render drefling their fkins not only very trouble-
fome, but almoft impraéticable, efpeciaily to the
generality of the Northern Indians, who are not
well acquainted with the manufacture of that kind
of leather.

To drefs thofe kins according to the Indian
method, a lather is made of the brains and fome
of the fofteft fat or marrow of the animal, in
which the fkin is well foaked, when it is taken
out, and not only dried by the heat of a fire, but
hung up in the fmoke for feveral days; it is then
taken down, and well foaked and wafhed in warm
water, till the grain of the fkin is perfectly open,
and has imbibed a fufficient quantity of water,
after which it is taken out and wrung as dry as
poffible, and then dried by the heat of a flow fire ;

care being taken to rub and ftretch it as long as
| any moifture remains inthe fkin. By this fimple
method,

262

A JOURNEY TO THE

1772. method, and by fcraping them afterwards, fome
“-~— of the moofe {kins are made very delicate both to

January.

11th.

the eye and the touch.

On the eleventh of January, as fome of my.
companions were hunting, they faw the track of a
firange {now-fhoe, which they followed; and ata ~
confiderable diftance came to alittle hut, where
they difcovered a young woman fitting alone. As
they found that fhe underitood their language,
they brought her with them tothe tents. On
examination, fhe proved to be one of the Weftern
Dogribbed Indians, who had been taken prifoner
by the Athapufcow Indians in the Summer of one
thoufand feven hundred and feventy ; and im the
following Summer, when the Indians that took
her prifoner were near this part, fhe had eloped
from them, with an intent to return to her own |
country; but the diftance being fo great, and hav- —
ing after fhe was taken prifoner, been carried in
a canoe the whole way, the turnings and wind-
ings of the rivers and lakes were fo numerous,
that fhe forgot the track; fo fhe built the hut in
which we found her, to proteé her from the wea-
ther during the Winter, and here fhe had refided
from the w it fetting in of the fall.

From her account of the moons paft fince her
elopement, it appeared that fhe had been near fe-
ven months without feeing a human face ; during
all which time fhe had {upported herfelf very |
well by fnaring partridges, rabbits, and fquir- |
els; fhe had alfo killed two or three beaver, and |
{ome porcupines. That the did not feem to have |
been }

NORTHERN OCEAN.

263

been in want is evident, as fhe had a {mall ftock 1772.

of provifions by her when fhe was difcovered ;
and was in good health and condition, and I
think one of the fineft women, of a real In-
dian, that I have feen in any part of North
America.

The methods practifed by this poor creature to
procure a livelihood were truly admirable, and
are great proofs that neceflity is the real mother
of invention. When the few deer-finews that
fhe had an opportunity of taking with her were
all expended in making fnares, and fewing her
clothing, fhe had nothing to fupply their place
but the finews of the rabbits legs and feet; thefe
fhe twifted together for that purpofe with great
dexterity and fuccefs. The rabbits, &’c. which
fhe caught in thofe fnares, not only furnifhed her
with a comfortable fubfiftence, but cf the fkins
fhe made a {uit of neat and warm clothing for
the Winter. It is fcarcely poflible to conceive
that a perfon in her forlorn fituation could be fo
compofed as to be capable of contriving or exe-
cuting any thing that was not abfolutely necef-
fary to her exiftence; but there were fufficient
proofs that fhe had extended her care much far-
ther, as all her clothing, befide being calculated
for real fervice, fhewed great tafte, and exhibit-
ed no little variety of ornament. The materials,
though rude, were very curioufly wrought, and
fo judicioufly placed, as to make the whole of
| her

eed
? January.

264

1772, her garb have a very pleafing, though rather ro.

Jenuary.

A JOURNEY TOVTRE

mantic appearance. 4

Her leifure hours from hunting had been em- |
ployed in twifting the inner rind or bark of wil |
lows into fmall lines, like net-twine, of which the.
had fome hundred fathoms by her; with this the
intended to make a ifhing. net as foon as the
Spring advanced. It is of the inner bark of
willows, twifted in this manner, that the Dog.
ribbed Indians make their fifhing-nets; and ae r
are much perferable to thofe made by the Nor=
thern Indians*. |

Five or fix inches of an iron hoop, made into
a knife, and the thank of an arrow-head of iron,
which ferved her as.an awl, were all the metals
this poor woman had sith her when fhe elop-
ed; and with thefe implements fhe had made}
herfelf complete fnow-fhoes, and feveral other vies
ful articles. |

Her method of making a fire was equally Gil
gular and curious, having no other materials for
that purpofe than two hard fulphurous ftones,
Thefe, by long friction and hard knocking, pro-
duced a few ficies which at length commun
cated to fome touchwood ; but as this method

* The Northern Indians make their fifhing-nets with fall thongs cut
from raw deer-fkins;' which when dry appear very good, but after being
foaked in water fome time, grow fo foft and flippery, that when Jarge filh
ftrike the net, the hitches are very apt to flip and let them efcape. Be |
fide this inconvenience, they are very liable to Tote untefs they be free)
quently taken out of the water and dried,

NORTHERN OCEAN. 265

was attended with great trouble, and not always 1772.
with fuccefs, fhe did not fuffer her fire to go out —~—~
all the Winter. Hence we may conclude that fhe aia
had no idea of producing fire by friction, in the
manner practifed by the Efquimaux, and many
other uncivilized nations; becaufe if fhe had, the
above-mentioned precaution would have been un-
neceflary.
The fingularity of the circumftance, the come-
linefS of her perfon, and her approved accomplith-
ments, occafioned a ftrong conteft between feve-
ral of the Indians of my party, who fhould have
her for a wife; and the poor girl was actually
won and loft at wrefiling by near half a {core dif.
ferent men the fame evening. My guide, Mato-
nabbee who at that time had no lefs than feven
wives, all women grown, befides a young girl of
eleven or twelve years old, would have put in
for the prize alfo, had not one of his wives made
him afhamed of it, by telling him that he had al-
ready more wives than he could properly attend.
This piece of fatire, however true, proved fa-
tal to the poor girl who dared to make fo open a
declaration ; for the great man, Matonabbee, who |
would willingly have been thought equal to eight
or ten men in every refpect, took it as fuch an
affront, that he fell on her with both hands and
feet, and bruifed her to fuch a degree, that after |
lingering fome time fhe died. »
When the Athapufcow Indians took the above
Dogribbed Indian woman prifoner, they accord-

ing

266 A JOURNEY TO THE

17972. ing to the univerfal cuftom of thofe favages, fur-
\—\-—~ prifed her and her party in the night, and killed
ee every foul in the tent, except herfelf and three |
other young women. Among thofe whom they _
killed, were her father, mother, and hufband.
Her young child, four or five months old, fhe
concealed in a bundle of clothing, and took with |
her undifcovered in the night; but when fhe ar- |
rived at the place where the Athapufcow Indians
had left their wives, (which was not far diftant,)
they began to examine her bundle, and finding |
the child, one of the women tookit from her, and |
killed it on the fpot. {
This laft piece of barbarity gave her fucha |
difguft to thofe Indians, that notwithftanding the —
man who took care of her treated her in every
refpect as his wife, and was, fhe faid, remarkably
kind to, and even fond of her; fo far was fhe |
from being able to reconcile herifelf to any of the
tribe, that fhe rather chofe to expofe herfelf to_
mifery and want, than live in eafe and affluence
among perfons who had fo cruelly murdered her
infant*. The poor woman’s relation of this

fhocking

<

* It is too common a cafe with moft of the tribes of Southern Indiags
for the women to defire their hufbands or friends, when going to war;
to bring them a flave, that they may have the pleafure of killing it; and
fome of thefe inhuman women will accompany their hufbands, and mur-
der the women and children as faft as their hnfbands do the men.

When I was at Cumberland Houfe, (an inland fettlement that I efta-
blifhed for the Hudfon’s Bay Company in the year 17474,) I was particu-
Jarly acquainted with a very young lady of this extraordinary turn ; who,
when I defired fonic Indians that were going to war to bring me a young

. flave,

NORTHERN OCEAN,

fhocking ftory, which fhe delivered in a very af-
feéting manner, only excited laughter among the
favages of my party.

In a converfation with this woman foon after-
ward, fhe told us, that her country lies fo far to
the Weftward, that fhe had never feen iron, or
any other kind of metal, till fhe was taken prifo-
ner. All of her tribe, fhe obferved, made their
hatchets and ice-chifels of deer’s horns, and their
knives of ftones and bones; that their arrows
were fhod with a kind of flate, bones, and deer’s
horns ; and the inflruments which they employ-
ed to make their wood-work were nothing but
beaver’s teeth. Though they had frequently
heard of the ufeful materials which the nations
or tribes to the Eaft of them were fupplied with
from the Englith, fo far were they from drawing
nearer, to be in the way of trading for iron-
work, t’c. that they were obliged to retreat far-
ther back, to avoid the Athapufcow Indians, who
made furprifing flaughter among them, both in
Winter and Summer. :

On the fixteenth, as we were continuing our

He hoe courfe

flave, which I intended to have brought up as-a domeftic, Mifs was equally
defirous that one might be brought to her, for the eruel purpofe of mur-
dering it. It is {carcely poffible to exprefs my aftonifhment, en hearing
fuch an extraordinary requeft made by a young creature fearcely fixteen
years old; however, as foon as I recovered from my furprife, I ordered her
to leave the fettlement, which the did, with thofe who were going to war;
and it is therefore probable the might not be difappointed in her requett.
The next year I was ordered to the command of Prince of Wales’s Fort,
and therefore never faw her afterward,

267

1772.
en one

January.

16th.

268 A JOURNEY TO THE

1772. courfe in the South Weft quarter, we arrived at
Lom the grand Athapufcow River, which at that |
January. part is about two miles wide, and empties itfelf |
into the great lake of the fame name we had fo |
lately crofled, and which has been already de.
{cribed.
The woods about this river, particularly the
pines and poplars, are the talleft and ftouteft I have _
feenin any part of North America. The birch
alfo grows to a confiderable fize, and fome fpecies é

of the willow are likewife tall: but none of them —
have any trunk, like thofe in England. |
The bank of the river in moft parts is veal
high, and in fome places not lefs than a hundred —
fect above the ordinary furface of the water. As’
the foil is of a loamy quality, it is very fubject to |
moulder or wafh away by heavy rains, even dur- _
ing the fhort Summer allotted to this part of the |
globe. The breaking up of the ice in the Spring |
is annually attended with a great deluge, when, |
Iam told, it isnot uncommon to fee whole points |
of land wafhed away by the inundations; and as i
the wood grows clofe to the edge of the banks, ‘
vait quantities of it are hurried down the ftream
by the irrefiftible force of the water and ice, and |
conveyed into the great lake already mentioned ; 5 |
on the fhores and iflands of which, there lies thal
greateft quantity of drift wood I ever faw. Some |
of this wood is large enough to make matts for
the large fhips that are built. The banks of the |
Fiver in general are fo {teep as to be inacceflible to
either

NORTHERN OCEAN.

269

either man or beaft, except in fome flacks, or y770,
gulleys, that have been wore down by hay

rains, backwaters, or deluges; and even thofe
flacks are, for the moft part, very difficult to af-
cend, on account of the number of large trees
which lie in the way.

There are feveral low iflands in this river, which
are much frequented by the moofe, for the fake
of the fine willows they produce, which furnifh
them with a plentiful fupply of their favourite
food during the Winter. Some of thofe iflands
are alfo frequently by a number of rabbits; but
as larger game could be procured in great plenty,
thofe fmall animals were not deemed worthy our
notice at prefent.

Befide the grand river already mentioned, there
are feveral others of lefs note, which empty them-
felves into the great Athapufcow Lake: There
are alfo feveral {mall rivers and creeks on the
North Eaft fide of the Lake that carry off the fu-
perfluous waters, fome of which, after a variety
of windings through the barren grounds to the
North of Churchill River, are loft in the marfhes
and low grounds, while others, by means of ma-
ny {mall channels and rivulets, are difcharged into
other rivers and lakes, and at laft, doubtlefs, find
their way into Hudfon’s Bay. Thefe rivers,
though numberlefs, are all fo full of fhoals and
ftones, as not to be navigable for an Indian canoe
to any confiderable diftance ; and if they were, it
would be of little or no ufe to the natives, as none

of

270

ee

January.

anth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

of them lead within feveral hundred miles of |
—-— Churchill River. ]

Agrecably to Matonabbee’s propofal, we con- |
tinued our courfe up the Athapufcow River for
many days, and though we pafied feveral parts
which we well knew to have been the former
Winter-haunts of the Athapufcow Indians, yet we -
could not fee the leaft trace of any of them hav- |
ing been there that feafon. In the preceding
Summer, when they were in thofe parts, they had !
fet fire to the woods; and though many months
had elapfed from that time till our arrival there,
and notwithitanding the fnow was then very
deep, the mofs was ftill burning in many places,
which at firft deceived us very much, as we took
it for the {moke of ftrange tents; but after going
much out of our way, and fearching very diligent-
ly, we could not difcover the leaft track of a
ftranger.

Thus difappointed in our expectations of meet-
ing the Southern Indians, it was refolved (in
Council, as it may be called) to expend as much

timein hunting buffalo, moofe, and beaver as we |
' could, fo that we might be able to reach Prince

of Wales’s Fort a little before the ufual time of
the fhips arrival from England. Accordingly, af-
ter having walked upwards of forty miles by the
fide of Athapufcow River, on the twenty-feventh
of January we ftruck off to the Eaftward, and
left the River at that part where it begins to tend

due South.
In

NORTHERN OCEAN. 271

In confequence of this determination of the In- 17972.
| dians, we continued our courfe to the Eaftward; —~-~
| but as game of all kinds was very plentiful, we Rea
| made but fhort days journies, and often remained

two or three days in one place, to eat up the

|) fpoils or produce of the chace. The woods
through which we were to pafs were in many pla-

| ces fo thick, that it was neceflary to cut a path

| before the women could pafs with their fledges ;

_and in other places fo much of the woods had for-

merly been fet on fire and burnt, that we were
frequently obliged to walk farther than we other-

wife fhould have done, before we could find green

| brufh enough to floor our tents.

_ From the fifteenth to the twenty-fourth of Fe- popnuary.
bruary, we walked along a fmall river that emp- '5‘*-?4"
ties itfelf into the Lake Clowey, near the part
where we built canoes in May one thoufand feven
hundred and feventy-one. This little river is that
-which we mentioned in the former part of this
Journal, as having communication with the Atha-
pufcow Lake: but, from appearances, it is of no
confequence whence it takes its rife, or where it
‘empties itfelf, as one half of it is nearly dry three-
\fourths of the year. The intervening ponds,
however, having fufficient depth of water, are,

}we may fuppofe, favourable fituations for beaver,

4as many of their houfes are to be found in thofe

‘parts.

On the twenty-fourth, a ftrange Northern In- 24th,

dian leader, called Thlew-fa-nell-ie, and feveral of
| his

Sass

Be)

1772. his followers, joined us from the Eaftward. This _
\—.— leader prefented Matonabbee and myfelf witha
February. ;

foot of tobacco each, and a two-quart keg of |

A JOURNEY TO-THE

brandy, which he intended asa prefent for the’
Southern, Indians; but being informed by my |
companions, that there was not the leaft proba- |
bility of meeting any, he did not think it worth |
any farther carriage. The tobacco was indeed ve~ |
ry acceptable, as our ftock of that article had been |
expended fome time. . Having been fo long with-"
out tafting {pirituous liquors, ] would not partake’ |
of the brandy, but left it entirely to the Indians,
to whom, as they were numerous, it was fearce* |
ly a tafte for each. Few of the Northern Indians’ |
are fond of {pirits, efpecially thofe who keep at a |
diftance from the Fort : fome who are near, and’ .
who ufually fhoot geefe for us in the Spring, will’
drink it at free coft as faft as the Southern Indi- —
ans, but few of them are ever fo imprudent as to’
buy it. ‘

The little river lately mentioned, as well as the’ |
adjacent lakes and ponds, being well-(tocked with)
beaver, and the land abounding with moofe and?
buffalo, we were induced to make but flow pro- |
grefs in our journey. Many days were {pent in
hunting, feafting, and drying a large quantity of
flefh to take with us, particularly that of the buf
falo; for my companions knew by experience,
that a few days walk to the Eaftward of our pre=
fent fituation would bring us to a part where we >
fhould not fee any of thofe animals.

The |

NORTHERN OCEAN,

The ftrangers who had joined us on the twen-
ty-fourth informed us, that all were well at Prince
of Wales’s Fort when they left it lait; which. ac-
cording to their account of the Moons pait fince,
muft have been about the fifth of November one
thoufand feven hundred and feventy-one. Thefe
ftrangers only remained in our company one night
before the Leader and part of his crew left us,
and proceeded on their journey to the North
Weltward; but a few of them -having procured
fome furrs in the early part of the Winter, join-
ed our party, with an intent to accompany us to
the Factory.

Having a good fiock of dried meat, fat, &'c.
prepared in the beft manner for carriage, on the
twenty-eighth we fhaped our courfe in the South
Eaft quarter, and proceeded at 2 much greater
rate than we had lately done, as little or no time
was now loftin hunting. ‘The next day we faw
the tracks of fome ftrangers; and though I did
not perceive any of them myfelf, fome of my
companions were at the trouble of fearching for
them, and finding them to be poor inoffenfive
people, plundered them not only of the few furrs
which they had, but took aifo one of their young
women from them.

Every additional act of violence committed by
my companions on the poor and difirefled, ferv-
ed to increafe my indignation and diflike ; this
laft act, however, difpleafed me more than all
their former actions, becaufe it was committed

¥ on

273

1772.
An
February.

28th.

274
19772.

cent iin
February.

A JOURNEY TO THE

on a fet of harmlefs creatures, whofe general man-
ner of life renders them the moft fecluded from
fociety of any of the human race.

Matonabbee affured me, that for more than a
generation paft one family only, as it may be call-
ed, (and to which the young men belonged who |
were plundered by my companions,) have taken _
up their Winter abode in thofe woods, which
are fituated fo far on the barren ground as to be
quite out of the track of any other Indians.
From the beft accounts that I could collect, the —
latitude of this place muft be about 631°, or 63°
at leaft; the longitude is very uncertain. From
my Own experience | can afirm, that it is fome
hundreds of miles both from the fea-fide and the

main woods to the Weftward. Few of thetrad-

ing Northern Indians have vifited this place; but
thofe who have, give a pleafine defcription of it,
all agreeing that it is fituated on the banks of a —
river which has communication with feveral fine
lakes. As the current fets to the North Eaft-
ward, it empties itfelf, in all probability, into
fome part of Hudfon’s Bay ; and, from the lati-
tude, no part feems more likely for this commu-
nication, than Baker's Lake, at the head of Che-
fterfield’s inlet. ‘This, however, is mere conjec-
ture; norisit of any confequence, as navigation
on any of the rivers in thofe parts is not only im- |
practicable, but would be alfo unprofitable, as —
they do not lead into a country that produces any |

thing —

NORTHERN OCEAN.

thing for trade, or that contains any inhabitants
worth viliting.

The accounts given of this place, and the man-
ner of life of its inhabitants, would, if related at
full length, fill a volume: let it fuffice to obferve,
that the fituation is faid to be remarkably favou-
rable for every kind of game chat the barren
“ground produces at the different feafons of the
} year; but the continuance of the game with
them is in general uncertain, except that of fifh
and partridges. That being the cafe, the few
who compofe this little commonwealth, are, by
‘long cuftom and the conftant example of their
forefathers, poflefled of a provident turn of mind,
with a degree of frugality unknown to every
other tribe of Indians in this country except the
Efguimaux.

Deer is faid to vifit this part of the country in
aftonifhing numbers, both in Spring and Autumn,
of which circumftances the inhabitant avail
themfelves, by killing and drying as much of
their flefh as poflible, particularly in the fall of
the year; fo that they feldom are in want of a
good Winter’s ftock.

Geefe, ducks, and f{wans vifit here in great
plenty during their migrations both in the Spring
and Fall, and by much art, joined to an infur-
| mountable patience, are caught in confiderable
numbers in {nares*, and, without doubt, make

hs 2 a very
* To f{nare fwans, geefe, or ducks, in the water, it requires no other
procefs

275

1772-6
Lev
February,

276

1772.
(nen a!
February,

A JOURNEY TO THE

a very pleafing change in the food. It is alfo re |
ported, (though Iconfefs I doubt the truth of it,)
that

procefs that to make a number of hedges, or fences, projeét into the water,
at right angles, from the banks of ariver, lake, or pond; for it is obferve |
ed that thofe birds generally {wim near the margin, for the benefit of feed=
ing on the grafs, &c. ‘Thofe fences are continued for fome diftance from

the fhore, and feparated two or three yards from each other, fo that open-

ings are left fufficiently large to let the birds fwim through, In each of
thofe openings a fnare is hung and faftened to a ftake, which the birdy.
when intangled cannot drag from the bottom ; and to prevent the fnare
from being wafted out ofits proper place by the wind, it is fecured to the
ftakes which form the epening, with tender gtafs, which is eafily
broken.

This method, though it has the appearance of being very fimple, is ne-
verthelefs attended with much trouble, particularly when we confider the
fmallnefs of their canoes, and the great inconveniency they labour under
in performing works of this kind in the water. Many of the ftakes ufed
on thofe occafions are of a confiderable length and fize, and the fmall bran- |
ches which form the principal part of the hedges, are not arranged with-_
out much caution, for fear of overfetting the canoes, particularly where the
water is deep, as itisin fome of the lakes; and in many of the rivers the,
current is very fwift, which renders this bufinefs equally troublefome.
When the lakes and rivers are fhallow, the natives are frequently at the
pains to make fences from fhore to fhore. -

To {are thofe birds in their nefts requires a confiderable degree of ar
and, as the natives fay, a great deal of cleanlinefs; for they have obferved,
that when fnares have been fet by thofe whole hands were not clean, th
birds would not go into the neft.

Even the goofe, though fo firple a bird, is notorioufly known to forlall
her eggs, if they were breathed on by the Indians.

The fimalle: fpecies of birds which make their neft on the ground, are b
no means fo delicate, of courfe lefs care is neceflary to fnare them. | It h
been obferved that all birds which build in the ground go into reir n@
at one particular fide, and ontof iton the oppofite. ‘The Indians, t
roughly convinced of this, always fet the fnares on the fide on which the
bird entersthe neft; and if care be taken in fetting them, feldom failof
feizing their obje&t. For fmall birds, fuch as larks, and many others of
equal fize, the Indians only ufe two or three hairs out of their head; but
for larger birds, particularly fwans, geefe, and ducks, they make fnares of
deer-finews, twifted like packthread, and occafionally of a fimall thong cut
fiom a parchment deer-fkin. |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

- that a remarkable fpecies of partridges as large
as Englifh fowls, are found in that part of the

country only. Thofe, as well as the common
_ partidges, it is faid, are killed in confiderable
numbers, with fnares, as well as with bows and
arrows.

‘The river and lakes near the little foreft where
the family above mentioned had fixed their abode,
abound with fine fifh, particularly trout and bar-
ble, which are eafily caught; the former with
hooks, and the latter in nets. In fact, ] have not
feen or heard of any part of this country which
feems to poflefs half the advantages requifite for
a conftant refidence, that are afcribed to this little
fpot. The defcendents, however, of the prefent
inhabitants muft in time evacuate it for want of
wood, which is of fo flow a growth in thofe re-
gions, that what is ufed in one year, exclufive
of what is cut down and carried away by the Ef-
quimaux, mutt coft many years to replace.

It may probably be thought ftrange that any
part of acommunity, apparently fo commodiou-

‘fly fituated, and happy within themfelves, fhould
be found at fo great a diftance from the reft of
their tribe, and indeed nothing but neceflity
could poffibly have urged them to undertake a
journey of fo many hundred miles as they have
done; but no fituation is without its inconve-
niences, and as their woods contain no birch-
trees of fufficient fize, or perhaps none of any

fize,

277

17 7 2.
ee ree
February.

278

A JOURNEY TO THE

1772. fize, this party had come fo far to the Weftward _

ae)
February.

to procure birch-rind for making two canoes, and
fome of the fungus that grows on the outfide of
the birch-tree, which is ufed by ail the Indians in
thofe parts for tinder. There are two forts of
thefe fungufes which grow on the birch-trees 5
one is hard, the ufeful part of which much re-
fembles rhubarb; the other is foft and {mooth
like velvet on the outfide, and when laid on hot.
afhes for fome time, and well beaten between two
ftones, is fomething like fpunk. The former is
called by the Northern Indians Jolt-thee, and is
known all over the country bordering on Hud-
fon’s Bay by the name of Pefogan*, it being fo
called by the Southern Indians. ‘The latter is

only

% The Indians, both Northern and Southern, have found by experience,
that by boiling the pefogan in water for a confiderable time, the texture is
fo much improved, that when. thoroughly dried, fome parts of it will be
nearly as foft as {punge.

Some of thofe fungufes are as large as a man’s head; the outfide, which
is very hard and black, and much indented with deep cracks, being of no
ufe, is always chopped off with a hatchet. Befides the two forts of
touchwood already mentioned, there is another kind of it in thofe parts,
that I think isinfinitely preferable to either. This is found in old decayed.
poplars, and lies in flakes of various fizes and thicknefs; fome is not thick~
er than fhamoy leather, others are as thick as afhoe-fole. This, like the
fungus of the birch-tree, is always moift when taken from the tree, but
when dry, it is very fot and flexible, and takes fire readily from the
{park of afteel; but it is much improved by being kept dry in a bag that»
has contained gunpowder. It is rather furprizing that the Indians, whofe
ynode of life | have been defcribing, have never acquired the method of
making fire by friction, like the Efquimaux. It is alfo equally furprizing
they do not make ufe of the fkin-canoes. Probably deer-fkins cannot be
manufactured to with{tand the water; for it is well known that the Efqui-
maux ufe always feal-fkins for that purpofe, though they are in the habit
&i killing great numbers of deer,

ne

ee is Anns

NORTHERN OCEAN.

by them Clalte-ad-dee.

By the firft of March we began to leave the fine
level country of the Athapufcows, and again to
approach the ftony mountains or hills which
bound the Northern Indian country. Moofe and
beaver {till continued to be plentiful; but no buf-
faloes could be feen after the twenty-ninth of Fe-
bruary.

As we were continuing our courfe to the Eaft
South Eaft, on the fourteenth we difcovered the
tracks of more ftrangers, and the next day came
up with them. Among thofe Indians was the
man who had carried a letter for me in March
one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-one, to
the Chief at Prince of Wales’s Fort, and to which
he had brought an anfwer, dated the twenty-
firft of June. When this Indian received the
letter from me, it was very uncertain what route
we fhould take in our return from the Copper
River, and, in all probability, he himfelf had not
then determined on what {pot he would pafs the
prefent winter ; confequently our meeting each
other was merely accidental.

Thefe Indians having obtained a few furrs in the
courfe of the Winter, joined our party, which
now confifted of twenty tents, containing in the
whole about two hundred perfons; and indeed
our company had not been much lefg during the
whofe winter.

From

279

| only ufed by the Northern tribes, and is called yy72,

March.
rit.

14th.

280

17726

aye)
Maich,

roth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

From the ftrangers who laft joined us we re-
ceived fome ready-dreffed moofe-fkins for tenting
and fhoe leather; alfo fome other fkins for cloth-
ing, for all of which the Chief at the Factory was
fo pay on our arrival,

I cannot fufficiently lament the lofs of my qua-.
drant, as the want of it muft render the courfe
of my journey from Point Lake, where it was
broken, very uncertain; and my watch ftopping
while I was at the Athapufcow Lake, has contri-
buted greatly to the misfortune, as 1 am now de-
prived of every means of eftimating the diftances
which we walked with any degree of accuracy,
particularly in thick weather, when the Sun
could not be feen.

The Indians were employed at all convenient
times in procuring birch-rind and making wood
work ready for building canoes; alfo in prepar-
ing {mali ftaffs of birch-wood, to take with them
on the barren ground, to ferve as tent-poles all.
the Summer; and which, as hath been already
obferved, they convert into fnow-fhoe frames
when the Winter fetsin. Here it may be proper
to obferve, that none of thofe incidental avoca-
tions interfere with, or retard the Indians in their
journey ; for they always take the advantage of
every opportunity which offers, as they pafs along,
and when they fee a tree fit for their purpofe,
cut it down, and either {trip off the bark, if that
be what they want, or fplit the trunk in pieces ;

and

NORTHERN OCEAN.

and after hewing it roughly with their hatchet,

281

1772

carry it to the tent, where in the evenings, or \—2

in the morning before they fet out, they reduce
| it with their knives to the fhape and fize which
| 4g required.

Provifions being plentiful, and the weather
fine, we advanced a little each day ; and on the
nineteenth took up our lodgings by the fide of
Wholdyeah-chuck’d Whoie, or Large Pike Lake.
In our way we croffed another {mall lake, where
we caught fome trout by angling, and killed a
- few deer and one moote.

On the twentieth we croffed Large Pike Lake,
which at that part was not more than feven miles
wide; but from North North Weft to the South
South Eaft is much longer. The next day we
arrived at Bedodid Lake, which in general is not
more than three miles wide, and in feveral places
much lefs; but it is upward of forty miles long,
which gives it the appearance of ariver. It is
faid by the Indians to be fhut up on all fides, and
entirely furrounded with high Jand, which pro-
duces vaft quantity of fir trees, but none of them
grow to a great height in thofe parts: their
branches, however, {pread wider than thofe of
firs of three times their height and thicknefs do
in Europe; fo that they refemble an apple-tree in
fhape, more than any fpecies of the pine. They
feem rich in tar, as the wood of them will burn
like a candle, and emit as {trong a fmell, and as
much black fmoke, as the ftaves of an old tar-

barrel ;

March.

19th.

20th,

282

1772. barrel; for which reafon no Indians chufe to burn

| eed
March.

April.
rit.

A JOURNEY TO THE

it in their tents, or even out of doors, for the
purpofe of cooking their victuals.

The thaws began now to be very confiderable,
and the under-woods were fo thick in thefe parts |
as to render travelling through them very diffi- |
cult; we therefore took the advantage of walk-
ing on the ice of the above-mentioned Lake,
which lay nearly in the direction of our courfe ;
but after proceeding about twenty-two miles on
it, the Lake turned more toward the North, on |
which account we were obliged to leave it, ftrik- |
ing off to the Eaftward; and after walking four-
teen miles farther, we arrived at Noo-fhetht
Whoie, or the Hill-Ifland Lake, fo called froma
very high ifland which ftands in it.

From the twenty-eighth to the thirty-firft of
March, we had fo hard a gale of wind from the
South, as to render walking on lakes or open
plains quite impoffible, and the violence with
which the trees were blown down made walk- |
ing in the woods fomewhat dangerous ; but |
though feveral had narrow efcapes, no accident |
happened. |

From the middle to the latter end of March, |
and in the beginning of April, though the thaw
was not general, yet in the middle of the day it |
was very confiderable: it commonly froze hard |
in the nights; and the young men took the ad- |
vantage of the mornings, when the fnow was —
hard crufted over, and ran down many moofe;

for |

NORTHERN OCEAN. 283

for in thofe fituations a man with a good pair of 17725
__ fhow-fhoes will fcarcely make any impreflion on “~~
the fnow, while the mooie, and even the deer, or
will break through it at every ftep up to the bel-

ly. Notwithftanding this, however, it is very
feldom that the Indians attempt torun deer down.

The moofe are fo tender-footed, and {fo fhort-
winded, that a good runner will generally tire

them in lefS§ than a day, and very frequently in

fix or eight hours ; though I have known fome

of the Indians continue the chace for two days,
before they could come up with, and kill the
game. On thofe occafions the Indians, in gene-

ral, only take with them a knife or bayonet, and

a little bag containing a fet of fire-tackle, and are

as lightly clothed as poffible; fome of them will

carry a bow and two or three arrows, but I ne

ver knew any of them take a gun unlefs fuch as

had been blown or burfted, and the barrels cut
quite fhort, which, when reduced to the leaft
poffible fize to be capable of doing any fervice,
“tuft be too great a weight for a man to run with

in his hand for fo many hours together,

When the poor moofe are incapable of making
| farther fpeed, they ftand and keep their purfuers
| at bay with their head and fore-feet ; in the ufe
of which they are very dexterous, efpecially the
| latter; fo that the Indians who have neither a bow
‘Ror arrows, nor a fhort gun, with them, are ge-

Neraily obliged to lath their knives or bayonets
fo the end of a long flick, and ftab the moofe at
a diftance.

284
1772+

i—~—~ on, fome of the boys and fool-hardy young men,

Apil,

the Indians in one of thofe chaces, but have heard many of them fay,

A JOURNEY TO THE

a diftance. For want of this neceflary precauti-

who have attempted to rufhin upon them, have
frequeatly received fuch unlucky blows from
their fore-feet, as to render their recover very
doubtful.

The fiefh of the moofe, thus killed, is far from
being well-tafted, and I fhould think mufl be very
unwholefome, from being over-heated; as by
running fo many hours together, the animal”
muft have been in a violent fever; the flefh be-
ing foft and clammy, muft have a very difa-
greeable tafte, neither refembling fith, fefh, nor
fowl*.

The Southern Indians ufe dogs for this kind of
hunting, which makes it eafier and more expe.
ditious; but the Northern tribes having no dogs .
trained to that exercife, are under the neceflity of
doing it themfelves. ,

On the feventh we crofled a part of Thee-lee-
aza River: at which time the fmall Northern
deer were remarkably plentiful, but the moofe

began to be very fcarce, as none were killed after
the third.

On

* Though Iwas a fwift runner in thofe days, T never accompanied

that after a long one, the moofe, when killed, did not produce more
than a quart of blood, the remainder being all fettled in the fefh; which,
in that ftate, muft be ten times worfe tafted, than the fpleen or milt of 2
hacon hog. .

; q

NORTHERN OCEAN.

285

On the twelfth, we faw feveral fwans. flying 1772.
to the Northward; they were the firft birds Of —-y—_s

paflage we had feen that Spring, except a few
{fnow-birds, which always precede the migrating
birds, and confequently are with much propriety
called the harbingers of Spring. ‘The fwans al-
fo precede all the other {pecies of water-fowl, and
migrate fo early in the feafon, that they find no
open water but at the falls of rivers, where they
are readily met, and fometimes fhot, in confide-
rable numbers.

On the fourteenth, we arrived at another part
of Thee.lee-aza River, and pitched our tents not
far from fome families of ftrange Northern Indi-
ans, who had been there fome time f{naring deer,
and who were all fo poor as not to have one gun
among them.

The villains belonging to my crew were fo far
from adminiftering to their relief, that they
robbed them of almoft every ufeful article in their
poffeffion; and to complete their cruelty, the men
joined themfelves in parties of fix, eight, or ten
in a gang, and dragged feveral of their young
women to a little diftance from their tents, where
they not only ravifhed them, but otherwife ill-
treated them, and that in fo barbarous a manner,

_as to endanger the lives of one or two of them.

Humanity on this, as weil as on feveral other
fimilar occafions during my refidence among
thofe wretches, prompted me to upbraid them

with

pri.
12th.

s4th,

286

A JOURNEY TO THE

oe with their barbarity ; but fo far were my remon.
a ad ftrances from having the defired effect, that they

Ap

25th.

a8ih,

afterwards made no fcruple of telling me in the
plaineft terms that if any female relation of mine
had been there, fhe fhould have been ferved in
the fame manner.

Deer being plentiful, we remained at this place
ten days, in order to dry and prepare a quantity
of the flefh and fat to carry with us; as this was ~
the laft time the Indians expected to fee fuch
plenty until they met them again on the barren
ground. During our ftay here, the Indians com-
pleted the wood-work for their canoes, and pro-
cured all their Summer tent-poles, &c.; and while
we were employed in this neceflary bufinefs, the

thaw was fo great that the bare ground began to

appear in many places, and the ice in the rivers,
where the water was fhallow and the current
rapid, began to break up; fo that we were in
daily expectation of feeing geefe, ducks and other
birds of paflage.

On the twenty-fifth, the weather, being cool
and favourable fcr travelling, we once more fet
out, and that day walked twenty miles to the
Faftward; as fome of the women had not
joined us, we did not move on the two follow- —

ing days.

On the twenty-eighth, having once more mut
tered all our forces, early in the morning we fet
out, and the next day pafled by Thleweyaza Yeth,

. the

.

‘|

NORTHERN OCEAN.

the place at which we had prepared wood-work
for canoes in the Spring one thoufand feven hun-
dred and feventy-one.

As the morning of the firft of May was ex-
ceedingly fine and pleafant, with a light air from
the South, anda great thaw, we walked eight
or nine miles to the Eaft by North, when a heavy
fall of fnow came on, which was followed, or
indeed more properly accompanied, by a hard
gale of wind from the north Weft. Atte time
the bad weather began, we were on the top of
a high barren hill, a confiderable diftance from
any woods; judging it to be no more than a
{quall, we- fat down, in expectation of its foon
pafling by. As the night, however, advanced,
the gale increafed to fuch a degree, that it was
impoflible for a man to ftand upright; fo that
we were obliged to lie down, without any other
defence againft the weather, than putting our
fledges and other lumber to windward of us,
which in reality was of no real fervice, as it only
harboured a great drift of fnow, with which in

| fome places we were covered to the depth of two

or three feet; and as the night was not very
cold, I found myfelf, and many others who were
with me, long before morning in a puddle of

| water, occafioned by the heat of our bodies melt-

ing the fnow. !
The fecond proved fine pleafant weather, with
warm funfhine. In the morning, having dried
all

288

A JOURNEY TO THE

1772, all our clothing, we proceeded on our journey.
ae In the afternoon we arrived at the part at which

3d,

my guide intended we fhould build our canoes 5
but having had fome difference with his country-
men, he altered his mind, and determined to pro-

ceed to the Eaftward, as long as the feafon would _

permit, before he attempted to perform that duty.
Accordingly, on the third, we purfued our way,
and as that and the following day were very
cold, which made us walk brifkly, we were ena-

bled to make good days’ journies; but the fifth

was fo hot and fultry, that we only walked about
thirteen miles in our old courfe to the Eaft by
North, and then halted about three-quarters of a
mile to the South of Black Bear Hill; a place
which I had feen in the Spring of one thoufand
feven hundred and feventy-one.

On the fixth, the weather was equally hot with |

the preceding day; in the morning, however, we
moved on eleven miles to the Eaft, and then met
feveral ftrange Indians, who informed us that a

few others, who had a tolerable cargo of furrs, —
and were going to the Factory that Summer,~

were not far diftant.

On receiving this intelligence, my guide, Ma
tonabbee, fent a meflenger to defire their compa-
ny. This was foon complied with, as it is an
univerfal practice with the Indian Leaders, both
Northern and Southern, when going to the com-
pany’s Factory, to ufe their influence and inte-

reft

}

NORTHERN OCEAN.

reft in convafling for companions; as they find

289
197-20

by experience that a large gang gains them much NeoeeaaS

*refpect. Indeed, the generality of Europeans

who refide in thofe parts, being utterly unac.
quainted with the manners and cuftoms of the In-
dians, have conceived fo high an opinion of thofe
Leaders, and their authority, as to imagine that
all who accompany them on thofe occafions are

entirely devoted to their fervice and command

all the year; but this is fo far from being the
cafe, that the authority of thofe great men, when
abfent: from the Company’s Factory, never ex-

tends beyond their own family ; and the trifling

refpect which is fhown them by their countrymen
during their refidence at the Factory, proceeds
only from motives of intereft.

The Leaders have a very difagreeable tafk to
perform on thofe occafions ; for they are not on-
ly obliged to be the mouth-piece, but the beggars
for all their friends and relations for whom they
have a regard, as well as for thofe whom at other
times they have reafon to fear. Thofe unwel-

‘come commiflions, which are impofed on them
_by their followers, joined to their own defire of

being thought men of great confequence and in-
tereft with the Englifh, make them very trou-
blefome. And if a Governor deny them any
thing which they afk, though it be only to give
away to the moft worthlefs of their gang, they
immediately turn fulky and impertinent to the

_higheft degree ; and however rational they may

U be

ay.

290
1772.

U—— every degree of reafon, and raife their dena

May.

‘was ten days, he begged feven liewtenents” coats, fifteen common coats,

chiefs, &c. befides numberlefs fmall articles, fuch as awls, needles, paint,

- way of trade, to give away.among his followers. This was exclufive “at

“A JOURNEY TO THE

be at other times, are immediately diveited of

to fo exorbitant a pitch, that after they have re.”

ceived to the amount of five times the value of -
all the furrs they themfelves have brought, they
never ceafe begging during their ftay at the Fac.
tory; and, afterall, few of them go away tho. i
roughly fatisfied*. ;

After :

* As a proof of this affertion I take the liberty, though a little foreign
to the narrative of my journey, to infert one inftance, ont of many hune |
dreds of the kind that happen at the different Fa@tories in Hudfon’s Bay,
but perhaps no where fo frequently as at Churchill. In OGober 1776,
my old guide, Matonabbee, came at the head of a large gang of Northern —
‘Indians, to trade at Prince of Wales’s Fort; at which time 1 had the ho-
nour to command it. When the ufual ceremonies had paffed, I drefled him —
out as a Captain of the firft rank, and alfo clothed his fix wives from top

to toe: after which, that is to fay, during his ftay at the Fadtory, which »

eighteen hats, eighteen fhirts, eight guns, one hundred and forty pounds
weight of gunpowder, with fhot, ball, and flints in proportion ; together
with many hatchets, ice-chiffels, files, bayonets, knives, and a great quane
tity of tobacco, cloth, blankets, combs, looking,-glaffes, ftockings, handkers

fteels, &c. in all to the amount of upwards of feven hundred beaver in the

own prefent, which confifted of a variety of goods to the value of four
red beaver more. But the moft extraordinary of his demands was twelve.

pounds of powder, twenty-eight pounds of thot and ball, four pout
of tobacco, fome articles of clothing, and feveral pieces of ironwork,

to give to two men who had hauled his tent and other lumber the +
ing Winter. This demand was fo very unreafonable, that I made fome
feruple, or at leat hefitated to comply with it, hinting that he was the pere
jon who.ought to fatisfy thofe men for their fervices; but I was foon an=
fwered, That he did not expeét to have been denied fuch a trifle as that was;
and for the future he would carry his goods where he could get his own
price for them. Ona my afking him where that was? he replied, in a ve-
ry infolent tone, “ To the Canadian Traders.” Twasglad to eomply with
his demands; and There infert the anecdote, asa fpecimen of an Indian’s
confcience.

NORTHERN OCEAN. 2gx

After flopping four days at this place, Mato- 1772.
nabbee, and alli the Indians who were to accom- a a
pany me to the Fort, agreed to leave the elderly
people and young children here, in the care of
| fome Indians who were capable of providing for
| them, and who had orders to proceed toa place
called Cathawhachaga, on the barren grounds,
and there wait the return of their relations from
the Factory. Matters of this kind being fettled,
apparently to the entire fatisfaction of all parties,
we refumed our journey on the eleventh of May,
and that at a much brifker pace than we could
probably have done when ail the old people and
young children were with us. In the afternoon
of the fame day we met fome other Northern
Indians, who were alfo going to the Fort with
furrs; thofe joined our party, and at night we
all pitched our tents by the fide of a river that —
empties itfelf into Doo-baunt Lake. This day
all of us threw away our fnow-fhoes, as the
ground was fo bare in moft places as not to re-
quire any fuch affiftance; but fledges were occa-
fionally ferviceable for fome time, particularly
when we walked on the ice of rivers or lakes.
The weather on the twelfth was fo exceeding-
dy hot and fultry, and the water fo deep on the
top of the ice of the above-mentioned river, as to
render walking on it not only very troublefome,
| but dangerous; fo after advancing about five
miles we pitched our tents, and the warm wea-
ther being likely to continue, the Indians immedi-

Usa ately

11th,

292 A JOURNEY TO THE

1772. ately began to build their canoes, which were |
“T~ completed with fuch expedition, thatin the after.
ith. noon of the eighteenth we again fet forward on —
our journey, but the day being pretty far fpent,
we only walked about four miles, and put up for —
the night.
goth. The morning of the nineteenth was fine plea- |
fant weather ; and as all the water was drained
off from the top of the ice, it rendered walking
on it both fafeand eafy; accordingly we fet out
pretty early, and that day walked upwards of
twenty miles to the Eaft North Eaft on the above.
mentioned river. The next day proved fo cold,
that after walking about fifteen miles, we were —
obliged to put up; for having left Doo-baunt |
River, we were frequently obliged to wade above
the knees through fwamps of mud, water, —
and wet fhow; which froze to our ftockings and
fhoes in fuch a thick cruft, as not only rendered
walking very laborious, but at the fame time fub-
jected us to the danger of having our legs an

feet frozen.
artt, The weather on the twenty-firft was more fe.
vere than on the preceding day; but the fwamps |
and ponds being by that time frozen over, it’
was tolerable walking: we proceeded therefore j
on our journey, but the wind blew fo freth, that
we bad not walked fixteen miles, before we found
‘that thofe who carried the canoes could not pof
fibly keep up with us, fo that we put up for
the‘night. In the courfe of this day’s journey
we

NORTHERN OCEAN,

we crofled the North Weft Bay of Wholdyah'd
Lake; which, at that part, is called by the Nor-
thern Indians A Naw-nee-tha’d Whoie. This
day feveral of the Indians turned back, not being
able to proceed for want of provifions. Game
| of all kinds indeed were fo fcarce, that, except a
| few geefe, nothing had been killed by any of our
party, from our leaving the women and children
on the eleventh inftant, nor had we feen one deer
the whole way. .

The twenty-fecond proved more moderate,
when all our party having joined, we again ad-
vanced to the North Eaft, and after walking about
thirteen miles, the Indians killed four deer. Our
number, however, had now fo increafed, that
four fmall Northern deer would {carcely afford
us all a fingle meal.

The next day we continued our journey, ge-
nerally walking in the North Eaft quarter; and
on the twenty-fifth, crofled the North bay of
They-hole-kye’d Whoie, or Snow-bird Lake ;
and at night got clear of all woods, and lay on
the barren ground. The fame day feveral of the
Indians ftruck off another way, not being able to
proceed to the Fort for want of ammunition.

As we had for fome days paft made good jour- '

| mies, and at the fame time were all heavy-laden,
jand in great diftrefs for provifions, fome of
| my companions were fo weak as to be obliged
‘j}to leave their bundles of furrs*; and many
| others

* All the furrs thus left were properly fecured in caves and crevices of
the

293

19726
heey ne
May.

22d.

23d.

25th.

294 A JOURNEY TO THE

1772. others were fo reduced as to be no longer capable
or of proceeding with us, having neither guns nor
Ma
ammunition; fo that their whole dependence
for fupport was on the fifh they might be ableto
catch ; and though fifh was pretty plentifulin
moft of the rivers and lakes hereabout, yet they —
were not always to be depended on for fuch an —
immediate fupply of food as thofe poor people re- —
quired. i”
Though I had at this time a fuflicient ftock of
ammunition to ferve me and all my proper com-
panions to the Fort, yet felf-prefervation being
the firft law of Nature, it was thought advifable
to referve the greateft part of it for our own ufe;
efpecially as geefe and other fmaller birds were —
the only game now to be met with, and which,
in times of {carcity, bears hard on the articles of ©
powder and fhot. Indeed moft of the Indians
who actually accompanicd me the whole way —
to the Factory had fome little ammunition re-
maining, which enabled them to travel in times
of real fcarcity better than thofe whom we left
- behind; and though we affifted many of them,
yet feveral of their women died for want. It is
a melancholy truth, anda difgrace to the little -
humanity of which thofe people are poflefled, to
think, that in times - want the poor women

alway

a

Kase

the rocks, fo as to withftand any attempt that might be made on them re
beafts of prey, and were well fhielded from the weather; fo that, in all
probability, few of them were loft.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

295

always come off fhort; and when real diftrefs ap- ' 1772.
proaches, many of them are permitted to flarve, —~—~

when the males are amply provided for.

The twenty-fixth was fine and pleafant. Inthe
morning we fet out as ufual, and after walking
about five miles, the Indians killed three deer ;
as our numbers were greatly leffened, thefe ferv-
ed us for two or three meals, at a {mall expence
of ammunition.

In continuing our courfe to the Faftward, we
croffed Cathawhachaga River, on the thirtieth of
May, on the ice, which broke up foon after the
laft perfon had crofled it. We had not been long
on the Eaft fide of the river before we perceived
bad weather near athand, and begam to make eve-
ry preparation for it which our fituation would
admit; and that was but very indifferent, being on
entire batren ground. It is true, we had complete
fets of Summer tent-poles, and fuch tent-cloths as
are generally ufed by the Northern Indians in that
feafon ; thefe were arranged in the beft manner,
and in fuch places as were moft likely to afford
us fhelter from the threatening ftorm. The rain
foon began to defcend in fuch torrents as to make
the river overflow to fuch a degree as foon to
convert our firft place of retreat into an open fea,
_and oblige us in the middle of the night to af-
femble at the top of an adjacent hill, where the
violence of the wind would not permit us to piceb
a tent; fo that the only fhelter we could obtaia
was to take the tent-cloth about our fhoulders,

and

May

26th.

30th.

296

1772,

A JOURNEY, TO THE

and iit with our backs to the wind; and in this —

Lexr— fituation we were obliged to remain without

May.

June.
3d.

8th,

the leaft refrefhment, till the morning of the
third of June: in the courfe of which time the —
wind fhifted all round the compafs, but the |
bad weather {till continued, fo that we were con-
ftantly obliged to fhift our pofition as the wind
changed. a
The weather now became more moderate, —
though there was ftill a frefh gale from the North
Weft, with hard froft and frequent fhowers of —
fnow. Early in the morning, however, we pro-
ceeded on our journey, but the wet and cold I
had experienced the two preceding days fo be-
numbed my lower extremities, as to render walk-
ing for fome time very troublefome. In the
courfe of this day’s journey we faw great num-
bers of geefe flying to the Southward, a few of
which we killed; but thefe were very difpropor-
tionate to the number of mouths we had to feed,
and to make up for our long fafting. !
From that time to the eighth we killed every

day as many geefe as were fufficient to perferve

life; but on that day we perceived plenty of deer,

_ five of which the Indians killed, which put us —

all into good fpirits, and the number of deer we

-then faw afforded great hopes of more plentiful
_ times during the remainder of our journey. It
__is almoft needlefs to add, that people in our di-

{trefled fituation expended a little time in eating,

_and flicing fome of the flefh ready for drying ;

but

eo

NORTHERN OCEAN.

| dried it by the fun and wind while we were
| walking; and, ftrange as it may appear, meat

thus prepared is not only very fubftantial food,
but pleafant to the tafte, and generally much
efteemed by the natives. For my own part I
mutt acknowledge, that it was not only agrecable
to my palate, but after eating a meal of it, I
have always found that I could travel longer
without victuals, than after any other kind of
food. All the dried meat prepared by the Sou-
thern Indians is performed by expofing it to the
heat of a large fire, which foon exhaufts all the
fine juices from it, and when fufficiently dry to
prevent putrefaction, is no more to be compared
with that cured by. the Northern Indians in the
Sun, or by the heat of a very flow fire, than
meat that has been boiled down for the fake of
the foup, is to that which is only fufficiently

| boiled for eating: the latter has all the juices re-

maining, which, being eafily diflolved by the
heat and moifture of the ftomach, proves a ftrong
and nourifhing food; whereas the former being
entirely deprived of thofe qualities, can by no
means have an equal claim to that charaéter.
Mott of the Europeans, however, are fonder of it
than they are of that cured by the Northern Indi-
ans. ‘The fame may be faid to the lean parts of
the beait, which are firft dried, and then reduced
into a kind of powder. That done by the Nor-

thern

4

~

97

| but the drying it occafioned no delay, as we fa- 1772.
ftened it on the tops of the women’s bundles, and gee Fa

ne.

298 A JOURNEY TO THE

1772. thern Indians is entirely free from fmoke, and
Teo quite foft and mellow in the mouth; whereas _
that which is prepared by the Southern tribes _
is generally as bitter as foot with fmoke, and
is as hard as the feraps of horn, &c. which are |
burnt to make hardening for the cutlers. FE
never knew, that any European was fo fond of |
this as they are of that made by the Northern |
Indians. fl
oth. On the ninth, as we were continuing our
courfe to the Factory, which then lay in the
South Eaft quarter, we faw feveral fmokes tothe |
North Eaft, and the fame day fpoke with many |
Northern Indians, who were going to Knapp’s
Bay to meet the Churchill floop. Several of thofe
Indians had furrs with them, but having fome
time before taken up goods on truft at Prince of |
Wales’s Fort, were taking that method to delay |
the payment of them. Defrauds of this kind |
have been practifed by many of thofe people with
great fuccefs, ever fince the furr-trade has been
eftablifhed with the Northern Indians at Knapp’s
Bay; by which means debts to a confiderable |
amount are annually loft to the Company, as welk |
as their Governor in the Bay.

Being defirous of improving every opportuni.
ty that the fine weather afforded, we did not lofe
much time in converfation with thofe Indi- |
ans, but proceeded on our courfe to the South |
Haft, while they continued theirs tothe North |
Eaft.

For

NORTHERN OCEAN.

For many days after leaving thofe people, we

299

r773.

had the good fortune to meet with plenty of pro- ——~

_ vifions; and as the weather was for a long time
remarkably fine and pleafant, our circumftances
were altered fo much for the better, that every
thing feemed to contribute to our happinefs, as if
defirous to make fome amends for the fevere hun-
ger, cold, and exceflive hardfhips that we had
fuffered long before, and which had reduced us
to the greateft mifery and want.

Deer was fo plentiful great part of the way,
that the Indians killed as many as were wanted,
without going out of their road; and every lake
and river to which we came feemed willing to
give usa change of diet, by affording us plenty of
the fineft fith, which we caught either with hooks
ornets. Geefe, partridges, gulls, and many other
fowls, which are excellent eating, were alfo in
fuch plenty, that it only required ammunition, in
fkilful hands, to have procured as many of them
as we could defire.

The only inconvenience we now felt was from
frequent fhowers of heavy rain; but the inter-
vals between thefe fhowers being very warm, and
the Sun fhining bright, that difficulty was eafily
overcome, efpecially as the belly was plentitully
fupplied with excellent victuals. Indeed the very
thoughts of being once more arrived fo near
home, made me capable of encountering every
difficulty, even if it had been hunger itfelf in the
moft formidable fhape.

On

June.

300 A JOURNEY TO THE

1772. On the eighteenth we arrived at Egg River,
“a7 from which place, at the folicitation of my guide
xbth. Matonabbee, I fent aletter poft-hafte to the Chief
at Prince of Wales’s Fort, advifing him of my
being fo far advanced on my return. The wea-
ther at this time was very bad and rainy, which
caufed us to lofe near a whole day ; but upon
the fine weather returning, we again proceeded _
at our ufual rate of eighteen or twenty miles a.
day, fometimes more or lefs, according as the’
road, the weather, and other circumftances,
would admit.

Deer now began to be not quite fo plentiful as"
they had been, though we met with enough for
prefent ufe, which was all we wanted, each per-
fon having as much dried meat as he could con-
veniently carry, befides his furrs and other necef-
fary baggage. |

aéth. Early in the morning of the twenty-fixth we
arrived at Seal River*; but the wind blowing

right up it, made fo great a fea, that we were —
obliged

* Mr.» Jeremie is very incorreét in his account of the fituation of this
River, and its courfe. Itis not eafy to guefs, whether the Copper or
Dog-ribbed Indians be the nation he calls Plat/cotex de Chiens: if it be the
former, he is much miftaken; for they have abundance of beaver, and
other animals of the furr kind, in their country: and if the latter,
he is equally wrong to affert that they have copper-mines in their
country ; for neither copper nor any other kind of metal is in ufe among
them,

Mr, Jeremie was not too modeft when he faid, (fee Dobb’s Account of

Hudfon’s bay, p. 19.) “he could not fay any thing pofitively in going
farther

NORTHERN OCEAN. 301

obliged to wait near ten hours before we could 1772.
venture to crofs it in our little canoes. In the ew
after-

‘farther ‘* North ;”’ for in my opinion he never was fo far North or Weftas
he pretends, otherwife he would have been more corre¢t in his defcripti-
on of thofe parts.

The Strait he mentions is undoubtedly no other than what is now

“called Chefterfield’s Inlet, which, in fome late and cold feafons, it not clear
of ice the whole Summer: for I will affirm, that no Indian, either Nor-
thern or Southern, ever faw either Wager Water or Repulfe Bay, except

the two men who accompanied Captain Middleton; and though thofe
men were feleéted from fome hundreds for their univerfal knowledge of
thofe parts, yet they knew nothing of the coaft fo far North as Marble
Mland.

Asa farther proof, that no Indians, except the Efquimaux, ever fre-

_quent fuch high latitudes, unlefs at a great diflance from the fea, | muft
here mention, that fo late as the year 1763, when Captain Chriftopher
went to furvey Chefterficld’s Inlet, though he was furnifhed with the
moft intelligent and experienced Northern Indians that could be
found, they did not know an inch of the land to the North of Whale
Cove.

Mr. Jeremie is al’ as much miftaken in what he fays concerning
Charchill River, as he was in the direétion of Seal River; for he fays that
no woods were found but in fome iflands which lie about ten or twelve
miles up the river. At the time he wrote, which was long befoiea fet-
tlement was made there, wood was in great plenty on both fides the rie
ver; and that within five miles of where Prince of Wales’s Fort now

’ftands. But asto the iflands of which he fpeaks, if they ever exilted,
they have of late years moft affuredly difappeared ; for fince the Com-
pany have hada fettlement on that river, no one ever faw an ifland in it
that produced timber, or wood of any defcription, within forty miles
of the Fort. But the great number of ftumps now remaining, from which,
in all probability, the trees have been cut for firing, are {ufficient to prove
that when Churchill River was firft fettled, wood was then in great plen-
ty; but in the courfe of feventy-fix years refidence in one place, it is na-
tural to fuppofe it was much thinned near the Settlement. Indeed for
fome yeats paft common fewel is fo fearce near that Factory, that it is the
chief employment of molt of the fervants for upward of feven months in
the year, to procure as much wood as will fupply the te for a Winter,

| and a little timber for neceflary repairs.

302 A JOURNEY TO THE ©

1772. afternoon the weather grew more moderate, fo |
Se es we were enabled to ferry over the river; |
after which we refumed our journey, and at night —
pitched our tents in fome tufts of willows in |
fight of the woods of Po-co-thee-kis-co River,
at which we arrived early in the morning of the |
twenty-eighth; but the wind again blowing very
hard in the North Eaft quarter, it was the after- |
agth, noon of the twenty-ninth before we could attempt
to crofs it.
Jui at the time we were crofling the South
branch of Po-co-thee-kis-co River, the Indians —
that were fent from Ege River with a letter to
the Chief at Churchill, joined us on their return, |
and brought a little tobacco and fome other ar- |
ticles a I had defired. Though it was late |
in the afternoon before we had all crofied the ri-
ver, yet we walked that evening till after ten |
o’clock, and then put up on one of the Goofe- |
hunting Iflands, as they are generally called,
about ten miles from the Factory. The next
morning I arrived in good health at Prince of |
Wales’s Fort, after having been abfent eighteen |
months and twenty-three days on this laft expe- |
dition; but from my fir fetting out with Cap- |
tain Chawchinaha, it was two years feven monte |
and twenty-four days. |
- Though my difcoveries are not likely to prove |
of any material advantage to the Nation at large, _
or indeed to the Hudfon’s Bay Company, yet I |
have the pleafure to think that I have fully com-
plied |

‘A JOURNEY TO THE 403

plied with the orders of my Mafters, and that it y7>,
has put a final end to all difputes, concerning oar a
North Weft Paflage through Hudfon’s Bay. It

will alfo wipe off, in fome meafure, the ili-ground-

ed and unjuf afperfions of Dobbs, Ellis, Robfon,

and the American Traveller; who have all taken

much pains to condemn the conduét of the Hud-

fon’s Bay Company, as being averfe from difcove-

ries, and from enlarging their trade.

CHAP.

304 A JOURNEY TO THE

Cas: vA 5Pi ie

A fhort Defcription of the Northern Indians, alfo |
a farther Account of their Country, Manufac-
tures, Cuftoms, &c.

An account of the pees and Sons es the Northeral
Indians. 7 hey poffe/s a great deal of art and cuns
ning.—Are very guilty of fraud when in their pow=
er, and generally exact more for their furrs than
any other tribe of Indians.—Always diffatisfied, yet
‘have their good qualities.—The men in general seas
lous of their wives.—Their marriages.—Girls al.
ways betrothed when children, and their reafons for
it.— Great care and confinement of young girls from
the age of eight or nine years old.—Divorces com-
mon among thofe people.—The women are lefs proe
lific than in warmer countries.—Remarkable piece
of fuperftition obferved by the women at particular
periods.—Their art in making it an excufe for a”
temporary feparation from their hufbands on any lit.
tle quarrel.—Reckoned very unclean on thofe occaf- |
ons.—The Northern Indians frequently, for the |
want of firing, are obliged to eat their meat raw.—
Some through neceffity obliged to boil it in veffels made |
of the rind of the birch-tree.—A remarkable difh |
among thofe people.—The young animals always cut
out of their dams eaten, and accounted a great delt-
cacy.—The parts of generation of all animals eat by

the

NORTHERN OCEAN. 305

the men and boys.—Manner of paffing their time,
and method of killing deer in Summer with bows
and arrows-—Their tents, dogs, fledges, &c.—
Snow-fhoes.—-Their partiality to domeftic vermin.
—Uimoft extent of the Northern Indian country.—
Face of the country.—Species of fifb.—A peculiar
kind of mofs ufeful for the fupport of man,—.Nor-
thern Indian method of catching fifb, either with
hooks or nets.—Ceremony obferved when two par-
ties of thofe people meet.—Diverfions in common ufe.
—A fingular diforder which attacks fome of thofe
people.—T heir fuperftition with refpe to the death
of their friends.—Ceremony obferved on thofe occafi=
ons. —T heir ideas of the fir/t inhabitants of the world.
— No formof religion among them.---Remarks on that
circumftance.—The extreme mifery to which old age
is expofed.—T heir opinion of the Aurora Borealis,
&c.—Some account of Matonabbee, and his fervi-
ces to his country, as well as to the Hudjon’s Bay
company. |

A. S to the perfons of the Northern Indians,
they are in general above the middle fize ;
_well-proportioned, ftrong, and robuft, but not
corpulent. ‘They do not poffefs that aétivity of
body, and livelinefs of difpofition, which are fo
‘commonly met with among the other tribes of
Indians who inhabit the Weft coait of Hudfon’s
Bay.
Their complexion is fomewhat of the copper
-caft, inclining rather toward a dingy brown ;
x and

A JOURNEY TO THE

and their hair, like all the other tribes in India,
is black, ftrong, and ftraight*. Few of the men
have any beard; this feldom makes its appear-
ance till they are arrived at middle-age, and then _
is by no means equal in quantity to what is ob- _
ferved on the faces of the generality of Europe. |
ans; the little they have, however, is exceeding- _
ly ftrong and briftly. Some of them take but —
little pains to eradicate their beards, though it is |
confidered as very unbecoming; and thofe who
do, haye no other method than that of pulling it
out by the roots between their fingers and the
edge of a blunt knife, Neither fex have any
hair under their armpits, and very little on any |
other part of the body, particularly the women 5 _
but on the place where Nature plants the hair, I
never knew them attempt to eradicate it. )
Their features are peculiar, and different from |
any other tribe in thofe parts; for they have very |
low foreheads, fmall eyes, high cheek-bones, Ro- |
man nofes, full cheeks, and in general long broad. |
chins. ‘Though few of either fex are exempt |
from this national fet of features, yet Nature
feems to be more flrict in her obfervance of it —
among the females, as they feldom vary fo much |
asthe men. Their fkins are foft, fmooth, and |
polifhed ; and when they are drefied in clean |
_ clothing,

* | have feen feverai of the Southern Indian men who were near fix feet
bigh, preferve a fingle lock of their hair, that, when let down, would trail
"on the ground as they walked. This, howeveryis but feldom feen; and

fome have fufpeéted it to be falfe: but I have examined the hair of
feveral of them and found it to ke real

NORTHERN OCEAN.

clothing, they are as free from an offenfive {mell
as any of the human race.

| Every tribe of Northern Indians, as well as the
| Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians, have three or
|four parallel black ftrokes marked on each cheek;
‘which is performed by entering an awl or needle
under the fkin, and, on drawing it out again,
immediately rubbing powdered charcoal into the
wound.

Their difpofitions are in general morofe and
covetous, and they feem to be entirely unac-
quainted even with the name of gratitude. They
are for ever pleading poverty, even among them-
felves; and when they vifit the Factory, there ig
not one of them who has not a thoufand wants.

When any real diftreffed objects prefent them-
felves at the Company’s Factory, they are always
relieved with viuals, clothes, medicines, and eve-
ry other neceflary, gratis; and in return, they
inftruct every one of their countrymen how to
behave, in order to obtain the fame charity.
Thus it is very common to fee both men and
women come to the Fort half-naked, when either
the fevere cold in Winter, or the extreme trou-
blefomenefs of the fliesin Summer, make it ne-
ceflary for every part to be covered. On thofe
occafions they are feldom at a lofs for a plaufible
ftory, which they relate as the occafion of their

diftrefs, (whether real or pretended,) and never

_ fail to interlard their hiftory with plenty of fighs,
_ groans, and tears, fometimes affecting to be lame,

x 2 and

Ww

308

A JOURNEY TO THE

and even blind, in order to excite pity. Indeed, |
I know of no people that have more command of _
their paffions on fuch occafions ; and in thofe re. |
{pects the women exceed the men, as can affirm
with truth I have feen fome of them with one |
fide of the face bathed in tears, while the other |
has exhibited a fignificant fmile. Falfe pretences _
for obtaining charity are fo common among thofe |
people, and fo often detected, that the Governor |
is frequently obliged to turn a deaf ear to ma-
ny who apply for relief; for if he did not, he |
might give away the whole of the Company’s |
goods, and by degrees all the Northern tribe
would make a trade of begging, inftead of bring-
ing furrs, to purchafe what they want. It may)
truly be faid, that they poffefs a confiderable de.
gree of deceit, and are very complete adepts in|
the art of flattery, which they never fpare as)
long as they find that it conduces to their inte-
reft, but not a moment longer. They take care!
always to feem attached to a new Governor,/
and flatter his pride, by telling him that they)
look up to him as the father of their tribe, on’
whom they can fafely place their dependance;
and they never fail to depreciate the generofity)
of his predeceflor, however extenfive that might:
have been, however humane or difinterefted his |
conduct; and if afperfing the old, and tan
the new Governor, has not the defired effect ina
reafonable time, they reprefent him as the wortt of|
characters, and tell him to his face that he is one

of

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ofthe moft cruel of men ; that he has no feeling
| for the diftrefles of their tribe, and that many
have perifhed for want of proper ailiftance, (which,
if it be true, is only owing to want of humanity
among themfelves,) and then they boaft of having
reccived ten times the favours and prefents from
his predeceflor. It is remarkable that thofe are
mott lavifh in their praifes, who have never either
deferved or received any favours from him. In
time, however, this language alfo ceafes, and they
are perfectly reconciled to the man whom they
would willingly have made a fool, and fay, “he
¢is no child, and not to be deceived by them.”
They differ fo much from the reft of mankind,
that harfh uncourteous ufage feems to agree bet-
ter with the generality of them, particularly the
lower clafs, than mild treatment ; for if the leaft
refpect be fhown them, it makes them intolera-
bly infolent ; and though fome of their leaders
may be exempt from this imputation, yet there
are but few even of them who have fenfe enough
to fet a proper value on the favours and indul-
gences which are granted to them while they re-
main at the Company’s Factories, or elfewhere
within their territories. Experience has con-
vinced me, that by keeping a Northern Indian at
a diftance, he may be made ferviceable both to
himfelf and the Company; but by giving him
the Jeaft indulgence at the Factory, he will grow
indolent, inactive, and troublefome, and only
| contrive

209

310

A JOURNEY TO THE

contrive methods to tax the generofity of an Eu.
ropean. !
The greateft part of thefe people never fail to
defraud Europeans whenever it is in their power, |
and take every method to over-reach them in the
way oftrade. They will difguife their perfons |
and change their names, in order to defraud them _
of their lawful debts, which they are fometimes
permitted to contract at the Company’s Factory 3
and all debts that are outftanding at the fucceflion
of a new Governor are entirely loft, as they
always declare, and bring plenty of witnefles to
prove, that they were paid long before, but that /
their oames had been forgotten to be ftruck out
of the book. Bd
Notwithftanding all thofe bad qualities, they
are the mildeft tribe of Indians that trade at any
of the Company’s fettlements; and as the great.
eft part of them are never heated with liquor, are”
always in their fenfes, and never proceed to riot, |
or any violence beyond bad language. |
The men are in general very jealous of their
wives, and | make no doubt but the fame fpirit
reigns among the women; but they are kept fo |
much in awe of their hufbands, that the liberty |
of thinking is the greateft privilege they enjoy.
The prefence of a Northern Indian man ftrikes |
a peculiar awe into his wives, as he always aflumes |
the fame authority over them that the mafter of
a family in Europe ufually does over his dome-—
itic fervants. |

y

‘Their |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

i Their marriages are not attended with any ce-
| remony; all matches are made by the parents, or
next of kin. On thofe occafions the women feem
to have no choice, but implicitly obey the will of
their parents, who always endeavour to marry
their daughters to thofe that feem moft likely to
be capable of maintaining them, let their age, per-
fon, or difpofition be ever fo defpicable.

The girls are always betrothed when children,
but never to thofe of equal age, which is doubt-
lefs found policy with people in their fituation,
where the exiftence of a family depends entirely
on the abilities and induftry of a fingle man.
Children, as they juftly obferve, are fo liable to
alter in their manners and difpofition, that it is
impoflible to judge from the actions of early youth
what abilities they may poflefs when they arrive
at puberty. For this reafon the girls are often
fo difproportionably matched for age, that it is
very common to fee men of thirty-five or forty
years old have young girls of no more than ten
or twelve, and fometimes much younger. From
the early age of eight or nine years, they are pro-
hibited by cuftom from joining in the moft inno-
cent amufements with children of the oppofite
fex; fo that when fitting in their tents, or even
when travelling, they are watched and guarded
with fuch an unremitting attention as cannot be
exceeded by the moft rigid difcipline of an Englifh
boarding-fchool. Cuftom, however, and conitant
example, make fuch uncommon reftraint and

confine-

Qik

312

A JOURNEY TO THE

confinement fit light and eafy even on children,
whofe tender ages feem better adopted to inno-
cent and cheerful amufements, than to be coop- |
edup by the fide of old women, and conftantly |
employed in fcraping fkins, mending fhoes, and |
learning other domeftic duties neceflary in the
care of a family.

Notwithftanding thofe uncommon reftraints —
on the young girls, the conduét of their parents is
by no means uniform or confiftent with this —
plan; as they fet no bounds to their converfati- |
on, but talk before them, and evento them, on
the moft indelicate fubjects. As their ears are
accuitomed to fuch language from their earlieft
youth, this has by no means the fame effect-on
them, it would have on girls born and educated.
ina civilized country, where every care is taken.
to prevent their morals trom’ being contaminated
by obfcene converfation. ‘The Southern Indians
are itill lefs delicate in converfation, in the pre-.
fence of their children.

The women among the Northern Indians are
in general more backward than the Southern.
Indian women; and though it is well known:
that neither tribe lofe any time, thofe. early
connections are feldom produttive of children for
fome years.

Divorces are pretty common among the Nor-.
thern Indians; fometimes for incontinency, but
more frequently for want of what they deem’

neceflary accomplifhments, or for bad behaviour. .
3 This

NORTHERN OCEAN.

This ceremony, in either cafe, confifts of neither
more nor lefs than a good drubbing, and turn.
ing the woman out of doors; telling her to go
to her paramour, or relations, according to the
nature of her crime.

_ Providence is very kind in caufing thefe peo-
ple to be lefs prolific than the inhabitants of civi-
lized nations; it is very uncommon to fee one
woman have more than five or fix children; and
thefe are always born at fucha diftance from one
another, that the youngeft is generally two or
three years old before another is brought into the
world. ‘Their eafy births, and the ceremonies
which take place on thofe occafions, have already
been mentioned ; | fhall therefore only obferve
here, that they make no ufe of cradles, like the
Southern Indians, but only tie a lump of mofs
between their legs, and always carry their chil-
dren at their backs, next the fkin, till they are
able to walk. Though their method of treating
young children is in this refpect the moft uncouth
and awkward lever faw, there are few among
- them that can be called deformed, and not onein
fifty who is not bow-legged.

There are certain periods at which they never
permit the women to abide in the fame tent with
their hufbands. At fuch times they are obliged
to make a {mall hovel for themfelves at fome dif-
tance from the other tents. As this is an uni-
verfal cuflom among all the tribes, it is alfo a piece
of policy with the women, upon any difference

with

Ke

314

A JOURNEY TO THE

with their hufbands, to make that an excufe for
a temporary feparation, when, without any cere-
mony, they creep out (as is their ufual cuftom
on thofe occafions) under the eves of that fide of
the tent at which they happen to be fitting; for
at thofe times they are not permitted to go in or
out through the door. This cuftom is fo general-
ly prevalent among the women, that I have fre-
quently known fome of the fulky dames leave
their hufbands and tent for four or five days at
atime, and repeat the farce twice or thrice in a
month, while the poor men have never fufpected
the deceit, or if they have, delicacy on their part
has not permitted them to enquire into the matter.
I have known Matonabbee’s handfome wife, who
eloped from him in May one thoufand feven
hundred and feventy-one, live thun-nardy, as
they call it, (that is alone,) for feveral weeks to-
gether, under this pretence; but as a proof he
had fome fufpicion, fhe was always carefully
watched, to prevent her from giving her compa-
ny to any other man. ‘The Southern Indians are
alfo very delicate in this point; for though they
do not force their wives to build a feparate tent, ©
they never lie under the fame clothes during this
period. It is, however, equally true, that the
young girls, when thofe fymptoms make their
firft appearance, generally go a little diftance from
the other tents for four or five days, and at their
return wear a kind of veil or curtain, made of
beads, for fome time after, as a mark of modetty ;

as

NORTHERN OCEAN.

as they are then confidered marriageable, and of
courfe are called women, though fome at thofe
periods are not more than thirteen, while others
at the age of fifteen or fixteen have been reckon-
ed as children, though apparently arrived at near-
ly their fall growth. |

On thofe occafions a remarkable piece of fuper-
ftition prevails among them ; women in this fitu-
ation are never permitted to walk on the ice of
rivers or lakes, or near the part where the men
are hunting beaver, or where a fifhing-net is fet,
for fear of averting their fuccefs. They are alfo
prohibited at thofe times from partaking of the
head of any animal, and even from walking in,
or croffing the track where the head of a deer,
moofe, beaver, and many other animals, have
Jately been carried, either on a fledge or on the
back. ‘To be guilty of a violation of this cuftom
s confidered as of the greateft importance; be-
caufe they firmly believe that it would be a means
ef preventing the hunter from having an equal
faccefs in his future excurfions.

Thofe poor people live in fuch an inhofpitable
part of the globe, that for want of firing they are
frequently obliged to eat their victuals quite raw,
particularly in the Summer feafon, while on the
barren ground; but early cuftom and frequent
neceflity make this practice fo familiar to them,
that fo far from finding any inconvenience arife
from it, or having the leaft diflike to it, they
frequently do it by choice, and particularly in the

article

345

316

A JOURNEY TO THE

article of fifh; for when they do make a pretence
of drefling it, they feldom warm it through. I
have frequently made one of a party who has fat
round a frefh-killed deer, and affifted in picking
the bones quite clean, when I thought that the
raw brains and many other parts were exceeding-
ly good ; and, however firange it may appear, I
muft beftow the fame epithet on half-raw fith:

even to this day I give the preference to trout, __

falmon, and the brown tittemeg, when they are
not warm at the bone. .
The extreme poverty of thofe Indians in gene-
ral will not permit one half of them to purchafe
brafs kettles from the Company; fo that they are
fiill under the neceflity of continuing their origi-
nal mode of boiling their victuals in large upright
veflels made of birch-rind.. As thofe veflels will
not admit of being expofed to the fire, the
Indians, to fupply the defect, heat ftones red-hot —
and put them into the water, which foon occafi-
ons it to boil; and by having a conftant fucceffion
of hot ftones, they may continue the procefs as
long as it is neceflary. This method of cooking,
though very expeditious, is attended with one
great evil; the victuals which are thus prepared
are full of fand: for the ftones thus heated, and
then immerged in the water, are not only liable
to fhiver to pieces, but many of them being of a
coarfe gritty nature, fall to a mafs of gravel in
the kettle, which cannot be prevented from mix-

ing with the victuals which are boiled init. Be-
fides

- NORTHERN OCEAN.

fides this, they have feveral other methods of
preparing their food, fuch as roafting it by a
ftring, broiling it, &c.; but thefe need on farther

-defcription.
- The moft remarkable difh among them, as well
as all the other tribes of Indians in thofe parts,
both Northern and Southern, is blood mixed
with the half-digefted food which is found in the
deer’s ftomach or paunch, and boiled up with a
fufficient quantity of water, to make it of the
confiftence of peafe-pottage. Some fat and fcraps
of tender flefh are alfo fhred fmall and boiled
with it. To render this difh more palatable,
they have a method of mixing the blood with
the contents of the ftomach in the paunch itfelf,
and hanging it up in the heat and fmoke of the
fire for feveral days; which puts the whole mafs
into a ftate of fermentation, and gives it fuch an
agreeable acid tafte, that were it not for prejudice,
it might be eaten by thofe who have the niceft
palates. It is true, fome people with delicate
ftomachs would not be eafily perfuaded to partake
of this difh, efpecially if they faw it drefled; for
moft of the fat which is boiled in itis firft chew-
ed by the men and boys, in order to break the
globules that contain the fat; by which means
it all boils out, and mixes with the broth: where-
as, if it were permitted to remainas it came from
the knife, it would {till be in lumps, like fuet.
To dojuftice, however, to their cleanlinefs in this
particular, I muft obferve, that they are very
care-

3t7

A JOURNEY TO THE
careful that neither old people with bad teeth,
nor young children, have any hand in preparing
this difh. At firft, I muft acknowledge that I
was rather fhy in partaking of this mefs, but when.
I was fufliciently convinced of the truth of the
above remark, I no longer made any fcruple, but.
always thought it exceedingly good.

The ftomach of no other large animal befide.
the deer is eaten by any of the Indians that bor-
der on Hud{on’s Bay. In Winter, whenthedeer .
feed on fine white mofs, the contents of the fto-
mach is fo much efteemed by them, that I have
often feen them fit round a deer where it was
killed, and eat it warm out of the paunch. In
Summer the deer feed more coarfely, and there-
fore this difh, if it deferve that appellation, is then
not fo much in favour.

The young calves, fawns, beaver, &'c. taken out
of the bellies of their mothers, are reckoned moft

_ delicate food; and I am not the only European

who heartily joins in pronouncing them the great-
eft dainties that can be eaten. Many gentlemen
who have ferved with me at Churchill, as well as
at York Fort, and the inland fettlements, will
readily agree with me in aflerting, that no one
who ever got the better of prejudice fo far as to
tafte of thofe young animals, but has immediate.
iy become exceflively fond of them; and the
fame may be faid of young geefe, ducks, tc. in
the fhell. In fact, it is almoft become a proverb
in the Northern fettlements, that whoever

wifhes

‘NORTHERN OCEAN.

wifhes to know what is good, muft live with the
Indians.

The parts of generation belonging to any beaft
they kill, both male and female, are always eat-
en by the men and boys; and though thofe parts,
particularly in the males, are generally very tough,
they are not, on any account, to be cut with an
edge-tool, but torn to pieces with the teeth ; and
when any part of them proves too tough to be
matticated, it is thrown into the fire and burnt.
For the Indians believe firmly, that if a dog fhould
eat any part of them, it would have the fame ef-
fect on their fuccefs in hunting, that 2 woman
crofling their hunting-track at an improper peri-
od would have. The fame ill-fuccefs is f{uppofed
alfo to attend them if a woman eat any of thofe
parts.

They are alfo remarkably fond of the womb of
the buffalo, elk, deer, &c. which they eagerly
devour without wafhing, or any other procefs
but barely firoking out the contents. ‘This, in
fome of the larger animals, and efpecially when
they are fome time gone with young, needs, no
defcription to make it fufficiently difgutting ;

and yet I have known fome in the Compaay’s
- fervice remarkably fond of the difh, though I am
not one of the number. The womb of the bea-
ver and deer is well enough, but that of the moofe
and buffalo is very rank, and truly difgufting*.

Our

* The Indian method of preparing this unaccountable dith is by threwing
the

ag

320

A JOURNEY TO THE

Our Northern Indians who trade at the Fa¢to-
ry, as well as all the Copper tribe, pafs their
whole fummer on the barren ground, where they
generally find plenty of deer; and in fome
of the rivers and lakes, a great abundance of fine
fith. fe

Their bows and arrows, though their original \,
weapons, are, fince the introduction of fire-arms |
among them, become of little ufe, except in kill-
ing deer as they walk or.run through a narrow

. pafs

the filthy bag acrofs a pole direétly over the fire, the fmoke of which, they

fay, much improves it, by taking off the original flavour; and when any
of it is to be cooked, a large flake, like as much tripe, is cut off and boiled

.for a few minutes; but the many large nodes with which the infide ofthe

womb is ftudded, make it abominable. Thefe nodes are as incapable of
being divefted of moifture as the fkin ofa live eel; but when boiled,
much refemble, both in fhape and colour, the yolk of an egg, and are fo
called by the natives, and as eagerly devoured by them,

The tripe of the buffalo is exceedingly good, and the Indian method of
cooking -it infinitely fuperior to that praétifed in Europe. When oppor-
tunity will permit, they wath it tolerably clean in cold water, ftrip off all
the honey-comb, and only boil it about half, or three-quarters of an

hour: in that time it is fufficiently done for eating; and though rather

tougher than what is prepared in England, yet is exceedingly pleafant to
the tafte, and muft be much more nourifhing than tripe that has been _
foked and {crubbed in many hot waters, and then boiled for ten or twelve —
hours. a.

The leffer flomach, or, as fome call it, the many-folds, either of buf- _
falo, maofe, or deer, are ufually eatraw, and are very good; but that of
the moofe, unlefs great care be taken in wafhing it, is rather bitter, ow-

. ing to the nature of their food.

The kidneys of both moofe and buffalo are ufually eat raw by the Sou-
thern Indians; for no fooner is one of thofe beafts killed, than the hun- —
ter rips up its belly, thrufts in hisarm, fnatches out the kidneys, and eats
them warm, before the animal is quite dead. ‘They alfo at times put their
mouths to the wound the bal! has made, and fuck the blood; which
they fay quenches thirft, and is very nourifhing.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

pafs prepared for their reception, where feveral
Indians lie concealed for that purpofe. This me-
thod of hunting is only practicable in Summer,
and on the barren ground, where they have an
extenfive profpect, and can fee the herds of deer
at a great diftance, as well as difcover the nature
of the country, and make every neceflary ar-
rangement for driving them through the narrow
defiles. This method of hunting is performed
in the following manner :

When the Indians fee a herd of deer, and intend
to hunt them with bows and arrows, they ob-
ferve which way the wind blows, and always get
to leeward, for fear of being fmelled by the deer.
The next thing to which they attend, is to fearch
for a convenient place to conceal thofe who are
appointed to fhoot. This being done, a large
bundle of fticks, like large ramrods, (which they
carry with them the whole Summer for the pur-
pofe,) are ranged in two ranks, fo as to form
the two fides of a very acute angle, and the flicks
placed at the diftance of fifteen or twenty yards
from each other. When thofe neceffary arrange-
ments are completed, the women and boys {epa-
rate into two parties, and go round on both
fides, till they form a crefcent at the back of the
deer, which are drove right forward; and as
each of the fticks has a fmail flag, or more pro-
perly a pendant, faftened to it, which is eafily
waved to and fro by the wind, and a lump of
mofs ftuck on each of their tops, the poor timo-

. rous

321

322

‘have feen eleven or twelve of them killed with |

4 JOURNEY TO THE

rous deer, probably taking them for ranks of —
people, generally run ftraight forward between
the two ranges of fticks, till they get among the _
Indians, who lie concealed in fmall circular fen-.
ces, made with loofe ftones, mofs, 5c. When
the deer approach very near, the Indians who are —
thus concealed ftart up and fhoot; butas the —
deer generally pafs along at full fpeed, few Indi-
ans have time to fhoot more than one or two ar- —
rows, unlefs the herd be very large. |
This method of hunting is not always attended —
with equal fuccefs; for fometimes after the Indi- |
ans have been at the trouble of making places of ©
fhelter, and arranging the flag-fticks, °c. the deer
will make off another way, before the women and —
children can furround them. At other times I _

one volley of arrows; and if any gun-men attend —
on thofe occafions, they are always placed behind
the other Indians, in order to pick up the deer
that efcape the bow-men. By thefe means I
have feen upwards of twenty fine deer killed at
one broadfide, as it may be termed. |
Though the Northern Indians may be faid to |
killa great number of deer in this manner during |
the Summer, yet they have fo far loft the art of |
fhooting with bows and arrows, that I never |
knew any of them who could take thofe weapons —

thod of huating. The Southern Indians, though -
they |

NORTHERN OCEAN,

they have been longer ufed to fire-arms, are far
more expert with the bow and arrow, their ori-
ginal weapons.

The tents made ufe of by thofe Indians, both
in Summer and Winter, are generally compofed
of deer-fkinsin the hair; and for convenience of
carriage, are always made in {mall pieces, feldom
exceeding five buck-fkins in one piece. Thefe
tents, as alfo their kettles, and fome other lum-
ber, are always carried by dogs, which are train-
ed to that fervice, and are very docile and tracta-
ble. Thofe animals are of various fizes and co-
lours, but all of the fox and wolf breed, with fharp
nofes, full bufhy tails, and fharp ears ftanding
erect. They are of great courage when attacked,
and bite fo fharp, that the {malleft cur among
them will keep feveral of our largeft Englith dogs
at bay, if he can get up in a corner. Thete
dogs are equally willing to haulina fledge, but
as few of the men will be at the trouble of mak-
ing {ledges for them, the poor women are oblig-
ed to content themfelves with leflening the bulk
of their load, more than the weight, by making
the dogs carry thefe articles only, which are al-
ways lafhed on their backs, much after the fame
manner as packs are, or ufed formerly to be, on
_pack-horfes. i
: In the fall of the year, and as the Winter ad-
wances, thofe people few the fkins of the deers
legs together in the fhape of long portmanteaus,
which, when hauled on the fnaw as the hair lies,
; Y 2 are

$#3

324

A JOURNEY TO THE

are as flippery as an otter, and ferve them as —

temporary fledges while on the barren ground ;

but when they arrive at any woods, they then —

make proper fledges, with thin boards of the
larch-tree, generally known in Hudfon’s Bay by
the name of Juniper.

Thofe fledges are of various fizes, according to
the ftrength of the perfons who are to haul them:
fome I have feen were not lefs than twelve or
fourteen feet long, and fifteen or fixteen inches

wide, but in general they do not exceed eight or —
nine feet in length, and twelve or fourteen inches |

in breadth.

The Boatids of which thofe flees are compof —
ed are not more than a quarter ofan inch thick,

and feldom exceed five or fix inches in width;

as broader would be very unhandy for the Indi-
ans to work, who have no other tools than an or-

dinary knife, turned up a little at the point,

from which it acquires the name of Bafe-hoth
among the Northern Indians, but among the ©

Southern tribes it is called Mo-co-toggan. The

boards are fewed together with thongs of parch- _

ment deer-fkin, and feveral crofs bars of wood ©

are fewed on the upper fide, which ferves both

todtrengthen the fledge and fecure the ground- —

lafhing, to which the load is always faftened by
other fmaller thongs, or ftripes of leather. The

head or fore-part of the fledge is turned up fo asto |
form a femi-circle, of at leaft fifteen or twenty in- —

ches diameter. This prevents the carriage from
diying into light fnow, and enables it to flide over —

the

/ NORTHERN OCEAN.

the inequalities and hard drifts of {now which are
| conftantly met with on the open plains and barren
| grounds. The trace or draught-line to thofe fledg-
esis a double ftring, or flip of leather, made faft
to the head; and the bight is put acrofs the fhoul-
ders of the perfon who hauls the fledge, fo as to
_ reft againft the breaft. This contrivance, though
fo fimple, cannot be improved by the moft inge-
_ nious collar-maker in the world.

Their fnow-fhoes differ from all others made
ufe of in thofe parts; for though they are of the
galley kind, that is, fharp-pointed before, yet
they are always to be worn on one foot, and
cannot be fhifted from fide to fide, like other
j fnow-fhoes ; for this reafon the inner-fide of the
frames are almoft ftraight, and the outer-fide has
i avery large fweep. The frames are generally
_ made of birch-wood, and the netting is compof-
_ed of thongs of deer-fkin ; but their mode of fill-
ing that compartment where the foot refts, is
quite different from that ufed among the Sou-
_ thern Indians.

Their clothing, which chiefly confifts of deer

kins in the hair, makes them very fubject to be
loufy; but that is fo far from being thought a

| difgrace, that the beft among them amufe them- -

felves with catching and eating thefe vermin ;
of which they are fo fond, that the produce of a
loufy head or garment affords them not only
pleafing amufement, but a delicious repaft. My
old guide, Matonabbee, was fo remarkably fond
of thofe little vermin, that he frequently fet five
or

gre

326

‘that part of the world where I was moft inclined

. nofe; and when their nofes bleed by accident, |

A JOURNEY TO THE

or fix of his ftrapping wives to work to loufe
their hairy deer-fkin fhifts, the produce of which
being always very confiderable, he eagerly re-
ceived with both hands, and licked them in as
faft, and with as good a grace, as any European
epicure would the mites in a cheefe. He often —
aflured me that fuch amufement was not only —
very pleafing, but that the objects of the fearch —
were very good; for which I gave him credit, —
telling him at the fame time, that though J en- —
deavoured to habituate myfelf to every other part
of their diet, yet as I was but a fojourner
among them, I kad no inclination to accuflom |
myfelf to fuch dainties as I could not procure in |

to refide.

The Southern Indians and Efquimaux are |
equally fond of thofe vermin, which are fo de.
teftable in the eyes of an European; nay, che
latter have many other dainties of a fimilar kind)
for befide making ufe of train-oil as a cordial and |
as fauce to their meat, I have frequently feen’
them eat a whole handful of maggots that were’
produced in meat by fly-blows. It is their con-/
fiant cuftom to eat the filth that comes from the

they always lick the blood into their mouths, and i
{wallow it.
The track of land inhabited by the Nortlianhi
Indians is very extenfive, reaching from the fifty-|
hinth to the fixty-eighth degree of North lati.
tude;

|

|

NORTHERN OCEAN.

tude; and from Eaft to Weft is upward of five
hundred miles wide. It is bounded by Church-
ill River on the South; the Athapufcow Indians’
Country on the Weft; the Dog-ribbed and Cop-
per Indians’ Country on the North; and by Hud-
fon’s Bay on the Eaft. The land throughout
that whole track of country is fcarcely any thing
but one folid mafs of rocks and ftones, and in
moft parts very hilly, particularly to the Weft-
ward, among the woods. The furface, it is very
true, is in moft places covered with a thin fod of
mofs, intermixed with the roots of the Wee-fa-ca-
pucca, cranberries, and a few other infignificant
fhrubs and herbage; but under it there is in ge-
neral a total want of foil, capable of producing
any thing except what is peculiar to the climate.
Some of the marfhes, indeed, produce feveral
kinds of grafs, the growth of which is amazingly
rapid ; but this is dealt out with fo fparing a hand
as to be barely fuflicient to ferve the geefe, {wans,
and other birds of paflage, during their migrati-
ons in the Spring, and Fall, while they remain
in a moulting ftate. |

The many lakes and rivers with which this part
of the country abounds, though they do not fur-
nifh the natives with water-carriage, are yet of
infinite advantage to them; as they afford great
numbers of fifth, both in Summer and Winter.
The only fpecies caught in thofe parts are trout,
tittameg, (or tickomeg,) tench, two forts of bar-

ble, (called by the Southern Indians Na-may-pith, )
burbot,

327

328

A JOURNEY TO THE

burbot, pike, and a few perch. The four former
are caught in all parts of this country, as well the
woody as the barren; but the three latter are only
caught to the Weftward, in fuch lakes and rivers
as are fityated among the woods; and though
fome of thofe rivers lead to the barren ground,
yet the three laft mentioned fpecies of fifh are fel-
dom caught beyond the edge of the woods, not
even in the Summer feafon.

There is a black, hard, crumply mofs, that
grows on the rocks and large ftones in thofe
parts, which is of infinite fervice to the natives,
as it fometimes furnifhes them with a temporary
fubfiftence, when no animal food can be pro-
cured. This mofs, when boiled, turns to a |
gummy confiftence, and is more clammy in the
mouth than fago; it may, by adding either mofs
or water, be made to almoft any confiftence.
It is fo palatable, that all who tafte it generally
grow fond of it. It is remarkably good and
pleafing when ufed to thicken any kind of broth,
but it is generally moft efteemed when boiled in
fifh-liquor.

The only method practifed by thofe people to
catch fifh either in Winter or Summer, is by |
angling and fetting nets; both of which methods |
is attended with much {uperftition, ceremony, and
unneceflary trouble; but 1 will endeavour to
defcribe tiiem in as plain and brief a manner as
poflible. |

When they make a new fifhing-net, which is

always

2

NORTHERN OCEAN.

always compofed of {mall thongs cut from raw
deer-fkins, they take a number of birds bills and
feet, and tie them, a little apart from each other,
tothe head and foot rope of the net, and at the
four corners generally faften fome of the toes
and jaws of the otters and jackafhes. ‘The birds

feet and bills made choice of on fuch occafions

are generally thofe of the laughing goofe, wavey,
(or white goofe,) gulls, loons, and black-heads ;
and unlefs fome or all of thefe be faftened to the
net, they will not attempt to put it into the wa-
ter, as they firmly believe it would not catch a
fingle fith. ) ;

A net thus accoutred is fit for fettine whene-
ver occafion requires, and opportunity offers; but
the firft fifth of whatever f{pecies caught in it, are
not to be foddeninthe water, but broiled whole
on the fire, and the. flefh carefully taken from
the bones without diflocating one joint; after
which the bones are laid on the fire at full length
and burnt. A firict obfervance of thee rules is fup-
pofed to be of the utmoft importance in promot-
ing the future fuccefs of the new net; and a
neglect of them would render it not worth a
farthing*. |

When they fifh in rivers, or narrow channels

that

* They frequently fell new nets, which have not been wet more than
once or twice, becaufe they have not been fuccefsful, ‘Thofe nets, when
foked in water, are eafily opened, and then make moft excellent heel and
toe netting for fnow-fhoes, In general it is far fuperior to the netting
cut by the Southern Indian women, and is not larger than common net~
twine.

39

A JOURNEY TO THE

that join two lakes together, they could frequent-
ly, by tying two, three, or more nets together,
fpread over the whole breadth of the channel, |
and intercept every fizable fith that pafled; but —
inftead of that, they fcatter the nets at a confide- —
rable diftance from each other, from a fuperftiti- _
ous notion, that were they kept clofe together, _
one net would be jealous of its neighbour, and by |
that means not one of them would catch a fingle
fith. .
The methods ufed, and ftrictly obferved, when
angling, are equally abfurd as thofe I have menti- _
oned; for when they bait a hook, a compofition
of four, five, or fix articles, by way of charm, is |
concealed under the bait, which is always fewed —
round the hook. - In faét, the only bait ufed by
thofe people is in their opinion a compofition of
charms, inclofed within a bit of fifh fkin, fo as in
fome meafure to refemble a {mall fifh. The |
things ufed by way of charm, are bits of beavers
tails and fat, otter’s vents and teeth, mufk-rat’s
guts and tails, loon’s vents, fquirrel’s tefticles, ©
the crudled milk taken out of the ftomach of |
fucking fawns and calves, human hair, and num-
berlefs other articles equally abfurd. |
Every mafter of a family, and indeed almoft ©
every other perfon, particularly the men, have a —
fmall bundle of fuch trafh, which they always |
carry with them, both in Summer and Winter; _
and without fome of thofe articles to put under —
their bait, few of them could be prevailed upon —
to |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

to put a hook into the water, being fully per-
fuaded that'they may as well fit in the tent, as
attempt to angle without fuch affiftance. They
have alfo a notion that fifh of the fame fpecies
inhabiting different parts of the country, are
_ fond of different things; fo that almoit every
Jake and river they arrive at, obliges them to al-
ter the compofition of the charm. The fame
rule is obferved on broiling the firft fruits of a
new hook that is ufed for a new net ; anold
hook that has already been fugcefsful in catch-
ing large fifh is efteemed of more value, than
a handful of new ones which have never been
tried.

Deer alfo, as well as fifh, are very numerous
in many parts of this country; particularly to
the North of the fixtieth degree of latitude.
Alpine hares are in fome parts of the barren
ground pretty plentiful, where alfo fome herds
of mufk-oxen are to be met with; and to the
Weftward, among the woods, there are fome

rabbits and partridges. With all thofe feeming

fources of plenty; however, one half of the in-
habitants, and perhaps the other half alfo, are
frequently in danger of being ftarved to death,
owing partly to their want of occonomy; and
moft of thefe fcenes of diftrefs happen during
their journies to and from Prince of Wales’s

Fort, the only place at which they trade.
When Northern Indians are at the Factory,
they are very liable to fteal any thing they
think

33%

Gy

A JOURNEY TO THE

think will be ferviceable; particularly iron hoops,
{mall bolts, {fpikes, carpenters tools, and, in fhort,
all {mall pieces of iron-work which they can turn
to advantage, either for their own ufe, or for the
purpofe of trading with fuch of their country-
men as feldom vifit the Company’s Settlement:
among themfelves, however, the crime of theft is
feldom heard of.

When two parties of thofe Indians meet, the
ceremonies which pafs between them are quite
different from thofe made ufe of in Europe on
fimilar occafions ; for when they advance within
twenty or thirty yards of each other, they make
a full halt, and in general fit or lie down on
the ground, and do not fpeak for fome minutes.
At length one of them, generally an elderly man,
if any bein company, breaks filence, by acquaint-
ing the other party with every misfortune that —
has befallen him and his companions from the —
laft time they had feen or heard of each other;
and alfo of all deaths and other calamities that
have befallen any other Indians during the fame
period, at leaft as many particulars as have come
to his knowledge.

When the firft has finifhed his oration, another
aged orator, (if there be any) belonging to the
other party relates, in like manner, all the bad
news that has come to his knowledge; and both
parties never fail to plead poverty and famine on
all occafions. If thofe orations contain any news
that in the leaft affect the other party, it is not

long

NORTHERN OCEAN.

long before fome of them begin to figh and fob,
and foon after break out into a loud cry, which
is generally accompanied by moft of the grown
perfons of both fexes; and fometimes it is
common to fee them all, men, women, and chil-
dren, in one univerfal howl. The young girls,
in particular, are often very obliging on thofe oc-
cafions; for 1 never remember to have feen a
crying match (as I called it) but the greateft part
of the company affifted, although fome of them
had no other reafon for it, but that of feeing
their companions do the fame. When the firft
tranfports of grief fubtide, they advance by de-
grees, and both parties mix with each other, the
men always aflociating with the men, and the
women with the women. If they have any to-
bacco among them, the pipes are pafled round

|. pretty freely, and the converfation foon becomes

general. As they are on their firft meeting ac-
quainted with all the bad news, they have by this
time nothing left but good, which in general has
fo far the predominance over the former, that in
lefs than half an hour nothing but fmiles and
cheerfulnefs are to be feen in every face; and if
they be not really in want, {mall prefents of pro-
vifions, ammunition, and other articles, often
take place; fometimes merely as a gift, but more
frequently by way of trying whether they cannot

get a greater prefent.
They have but few diverfions; the chief is
fhooting

ww

334

A JOURNEY TO THE

fhooting at a mark with bow and arrows; and
another out-door game, called Holl, which in
fome meafure refembles playing with coits ;
only it is done with fhort clubs, fharp at one end.
They alfo amufe themfelves at times with danc-
ing, which is always performed in the night. It
is remarkable that thofe people, though a diftiné
nation, have never adopted any mode of dancing
of their own, or any fongs to which they can
dance; fo that when any thing of this kind is
attempted, which is but feldom, they always en- _
deavour to imitate either the Dog-ribbed or Sou-
thern Indians, but more commonly the former, as _
few of them are {ufliciently acquainted either
with the Southern Indian language, or their mane —
ner of dancing. The Dog-ribbed method is not
very difficult to learn, as it only confifts in lift:
ing the feet alternately from the ground in-a
very quick fucceflion, and as high as poflible,
without moving the body, which fhould-be kept
quite {till and motionlefs ; the hands at the fame
time being clofed, and held clofe to the breaft,
and the head inclining forward. This diverfion
is always performed quite naked, except the
breech-cloth, and at times that is alfo thrown off;
and the dancers, who feldom exceed three or
four at a time, always ftand clofe to the mufic.
The mufic may, by ftraining a point, be called

both vocal and inftrumental, though both are |}

fufficiently humble. The former is no more
than |

|

NORTHERN OCEAN.

than a frequent repetition of the words hee, hee,
hee, ho, ho, ho, &c. which, by a more or lefS
frequent repetition, dwelling longer on one word
and fhorter on another, and raifing and lowering
the voice, produce fomething like a tune, and
has the defired effect. This is always accompani-
ed by a drum or tabor; and fometimes a kind of
rattle is added, made with a piece of dried buffa-
lo fkin, in fhape exactly like an oil-flafk, into
which they put a few fhot or pebbles, which,
when fhook about, produces mufic little inferior
tothe drum, though not fo loud.
_ This mode of dancing naked is performed on-
ly by the men; for when the women are order-
ed to dance, they always exhibit without the
tent, to mufic which is played within it; and
though their method of dancing is perfectly de-
cent, yet it has ftill lefs meaning and a¢tion than
that of the men: fora whole heap of them crowd
together in a ftraight line, and juft fhuffle them-
felves a little from right to left, and back again
in the fame line, without lifting their feet from
the ground; and when the mufic ftops, they all
give a little bend of the body and knee, fomewhat
dike an awkward curtfy, and pronounce, in a lit-
_ tle fhrill tone, h-e-e, h-o-0-0-e.
- Befide thefe diverfions, they have another fim-
f ple in-door game, which is that of taking a bit
of wood, a button, or any other {mall thing, and
_ after fhifting it from hand to hand feveral times,
alking

&>

wr

336

A JOURNEY TO THE

afking their antagonift, which hand it is in?
When playing at this game, which only admits
of two perfons, each of them have ten, fifteen _
or twenty {mall chips of wood, like matches; and —
when one of the players gueffes right, he takes —
one of his antagonift’s fticks, and lays it to his -
own; and he that firft gets all the flicks from
the other in that manner is faid to win the game, |
which is generally for a fingle load of powder |
and fhot, an arrow, or fome other thing of incon-
fiderable value. |
The women never mix in any of their diverfi-
ons, not even in dancing ; for when that is re-
quired of them, they always exhibit without the:
tent, as has been already obferved; nor are they’
allowed to be prefent at a feaft. Indeed, the
whole courfe of their lives is one continued fcene|
of drudgery, viz. carrying and hauling heavy
loads, drefling fkins for clothing, curing their
provifions, and practifing other neceflary dome-
ftic duties which are required in a family, with.
out enjoying the leaft diverfion of any kind, on)
relaxation, on any occafion whatever ; and except)
in the execution of thofe homely duties, in whick
they are always inftructed from their infancy!
their fenfes feem almoft as dull and frigid as the
zone they inhabit. There are indeed fome ex)
ceptions to be met with among them, and I fup)
pofe it only requires indulgence and precept tc
make fome of them as lofty and infolent as any
womer

!

NORTHERN OCEAN,

| women in the world. Though they wear their
hair at full length, and never tie it up, like the
Southern Indians ; and though not one in fifty of
| them is ever poffefled of a comb, yet by a won-
derful dexterity of the fingers, and a good deal
of patience, they make fhift to ftroke it out fo as
| not to leave two hairs entangled ; but when their
| heads are infefted with vermin, from which very
| few of either fex are free, they mutually affift each
other in keeping them under.

A {corbutic diforder, refembling the worft ftage
of the itch, confumptions, and fluxes, are their
chief diforders. The firft of thefe, though very
_troublefome, is never known to prove fatal, un-
| Jefs it be accompanied with fome inward com-
‘plaint ; but the two latter, with a few accidents,
| carries off great numbers of both fexes and all
| ages: indeed few of them live to any great age,
probably owing to the great fatigue they under
go from their youth up, in procuring a fubfi-
| ftence for themfelves and their offspring.
Though the fcorbutic diforder above mention
| ed does appear to be infectious, it is rare to fee
one have it without the whole tent’s crew being
_more or lefs affected with it; but this is by no
_ means a proof of its being contagious; I rather
| attribute it to the effects of fome bad water, or
‘the unwholefomenefs of fome fith they may
catch in particular places, in the courfe of their
wandering manner of life. Were it otherwife,
_2fingle family would in a fhort time communi-
| Z cate

337

338

A JOURNEY TO THE

cate.itto the whole tribe ; but, on the contrary,
the difeafe is never known to fpread. In the |
younger fort it always attacks the hands and feet,
not even fparing the palms and foles. ‘hofe of —
riper years generally have it about the wrifts, in- _
fteps, and pofteriors; and in the latter particu. |
larly, the blotches, or boils as they may jufily be |
called are often as large as the top of a man’s”
thumb. This diforder moft frequently makes
its appearance in the Summer, while the indians —
are out in the barren ground; and though it is
by no means reckoned dangerous, yet it is fo ob-
flinate, as not to yield to any medicine that has
ever been applied to it while at the Company’s Fac-
tory. And as the natives themfelves never make |
ufe of any medicines of their own preparing,
Nature alone works the cure, which is never per-
formed in lefs than twelve or eighteen months ; —
and fome of them are troubled with this difagree-
able and Joathfome diforder for years before they
are perfectly cured, and then a dark livid mark
remains on thofe parts of the fkin which have
been affected, for many years afterwards, and in
fome during life.
When any of the principal Northern Indians
die, it is generally believed that they are conjur-
ed to death, either by fome of their own coun- |
irymen, by fome of the Southern Indians, or by
fome of the Efquimaux : too frequently the ful
picion falls on the latter tribe, which is the grand —
reafon of their never being at peace with thofe. |

poor |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

poor and diftrefled people. For fome time patt,
however, thofe Efquimaux who trade with our
floops at Knapp’s Bay, Navel’s Bay, and Whale
Cove, are in perfect peace and friendfhip with the
Northern Indians; which is entirely owing tot he
protection they have for feveral years paft receiv-
ed from the Chiefs at the Company’s Fort at
Churchill River*. But thofe of that tribe who

Z 2 live

* In the Summer of 1456, a pasty of Nosthern Indians lay in wait at
Knapp’s Bay till the floop had failed out of the harbour, when they fell on
the poor Efquimaux, and kilied every foul. Mr. John Bean, then Matter
ofthe floop, and fince Matter of the Trinity yacht, with all his crew,
heard the guns very plain; but did not know the meaning or reafon of it
till the Summer following, when he found-the fhocking remains of more
than forty Efquimaux, who had been murdered in that cowardly manner;
and for no other reafon but becaufe two principal Northern Indians had
died in the preceding Winter.

No Efquimaux were feen at Knapp’s Bay for feveral years after; and
thofe who trade there at prefent have undoubtedly been drawn from the
Northward, fince the above unhappy tranfaGtion; for the convenience of
being nearer the woods, as well as being in the way of trading with the
floop that calls there annually. It is to be hoped that the meafures taken
by the Governors at Prince of Wales’s Fort of late years, will effe€tually
prevent any fuch calamities happening in future, and by degrees be the
means of bringing about a lafting, friendly, and reciprocal intereft between
the two nations.

Notwithftanding the pacific and friendly terms which begin to dawn
between thofe two tribes at Knapp’s Bay, Navel’s Bay, and Whale Cove,
farther North hoftilities continue, and moft barbarous murders are per-
petrated: and the only protetion the Efquimaux have from the fury of
their enemies, is their remote fituation in the Winter, and: their refiding
chiefly on iflands and peninfulas in Summer, which renders them lef liable
to be furprifed during that feafon. But even this fecluded life does not
prevent the Northern Indians from haraffing them greatly, and at times
they are fo clofely purfued as to be obliged to leave moft of their goods,
and utenfils to be deftroyed by their enemy ; which muft be a great lofs,
as thefe cannot be replaced but at the expence of much time and labour ;
and the want of them in the main time mu(t create much diftrefs both to

them-

339

340

A JOURNEY TO THE

live fo far to the North, as not to have any in-
tercourfe with our veflels, very often fall a facri-
fice to the fury and fuperftition of the Northern
Indians; who are by no means a bold or warlike
people; nor can I think from experience, that
they are particularly guilty of committing acts of
wanton cruelty on any other part of the human
race befide the #{quimaux. ‘Their hearts, how-

ever...

themfelves and their families, as they can feldom procure any part of their
livelihood without the affiftance of a confiderable apparatus.

In 1756, the Efquimaux at Knapp’s Bay fent two of their youths to
Prince of Wales’s Fort in the floop, and the Summer following they were
éarried back to their friends, loaded with prefents, and much pleafed with
the treatment they received while at the Fort. In 1767, they again fent
one from Knapp’s Bay and one from Whale Cove; and though during
their ftay at the Fort they made a confiderable progrefs both in the Sou-
thern Indian and the Englifh languages, yet thofe intercourfes have not
been any ways advantageous to the Company, by increafing the trade from
that quarter. In faét, the only fatisfaétion they have found forthe great
éxpence they have from time to time incurred, by introducing thofe ftran-
gers, is, that through the good conduét of their upper fervants at Churchill
River, they have at length fo far humanized the hearts of thofe two
tribes, that at prefent they can meet each other in a friendly manner;
whereas, a few years fince, whenever they met, each party premeditated
the deftruction of the other; and what made their war more fhocking, was,
they never gave quarter: fo that the ftrongeft party always killed the
weakeft, without fparing either man, woman, or child.

It is but 2 few years ago that the floop’s crew who annually carried
them all their wants, durft not venture on fhore among the Efquimaux
unarmed, for fear of being murdered; but latterly they are fo civilized,
that the Company’s fervants vifit their tents with the greateft freedom
and fafety, are always welcome, and defired to partake of fach provifions
as they have: and knowing now our averfion from train-oil, they take
évery means in their power to convince our people that the victuals pre-
pared for them is entirely free from it. But the fimell of their tents, cook-
ing-utenfils, and other furniture, is fearcely lefs offenfive than Greenland
Dock. However I have eaten both fifh and venifon cooked by them in fo
cleanly a manner, that I have relifked them very much, and partaken of
them with a good appetite.

——

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ever, are in general fo unfufceptible of tendernefs,
that they can view the decpetft diftrefs in thofe
who are not immediately related to them, with-
out the leaft emotion; not even half fo much as
the generality of mankind feel for the fufferings
of the meaneft of the brute creation. Ihave been
prefent when one of them, imitating the groans,
diftorted features, and contracted pofition, of a
man who had died in the moft excruciating
pain, put the whole company, except myfelf, into
the moft violent fit of laughter.

The Northern Indians never bury their dead,
but always leave the bodies where they die, fo that
they are fuppofed to be devoured by beafts and
birds of prey ; for which reafon they will not eat
foxes, wolves, ravens, &c. unlefs it be through
mere neceflity. :

The death of a near relation affects them fo fen-
fibly, that they rend all their cloths from their
backs, and go naked, till fome perfons lefs affli@-
ed relieve them. After the death of a father,
mother, hufband, wife, fon, or brother, they
mourn, as it may be called, for a whole year,
which they meafure by the moons and feafons.
Thofe mournful periods are not diftinguifhed by
any particular drefs, except that of cutting off the
hair; and the ceremony confitts in almoft perpe-
tually crying. Even when walking, as well asat
all other intervals from fleep, eating, and conver-
fation, they make an odd howling noife, often
repeating the relationfhip of the deceafed. But

ag

344

342

A JOURNEY TO THE

as this is in a great meafure mere form and cuf-
tom, fome of them have a method of foftening
the harfhnefs of the notes, and bringing them out
in a more mufical tone than that in which they
fing their fongs. When they refleét ferioufly on.
the lofs of a good friend, however, it has fuch an
effect on them for the prefent, that they give an
uncommon loofe to their grief. At thofe times
they feem to fympathife (through cuftom) with
each other’s afflictions fo much, that I have often
feen feveral {cores of them crying in concert,
when at the fame time not above half a dozen of
them had any more reafon for fo doing than I
had, unlefs it was to preferve the old cuftom, and
keep the others in countenance. The women
are remarkably obliging on fuch occafions; and as
no reftriction is laid on them, they may with
truth be faid to cry with ail their might and
main ; but in common converfation they are ob-
liged to be very moderate.

They have a tradition among them, that the
firft perfon upon earth was a woman, who, after
having been fome time alone, in her refearches
for berries, which was then her only food, found
an animal like a dog, which followed her to the
cave where fhe lived, and foon grew fond and

_domeftic. This dog, they fay, had the art of

transforming itfelf into the fhape of a handfome
young man, which it frequently did at night, but |
as the day approached, always refumed its former
fhape ; fo that the woman looked on all that pafl-

ed

NORTHERN OCEAN.

| ed on thofe occafions as dreams and delufions.
| Thefe tranformations were foon produdtive of
| the confequences which at prefent generally fol-
| Jow fuch intimate connexions between the two
| fexes, and the mother of the world began to ad-
| vance in her pregnancy.
Not long after this happened, a man of fuch a
| furprifing height that his head reached up to the
clouds, came to level the land, which at that time
Was a very rude mafs; and after he had done
this, by the help of his walking-{tick he marked
out all the lakes, ponds, and rivers, and immedi-
| ately caufed them to be filled with water. He
| then took the dog, and tore it to pieces; the guts
he threw into the lakes and rivers, commanding
| them to become the different kinds of fifth; the
| flefh he difperfed over the Jand, commanding it
to become different kinds of beafts and land-ani-
mals; the fkin he alfo tore in {mall pieces, and
threw it into the air, commanding it to become
all kinds of birds; after which he gave the wo-
man and her offspring full power to kill, eat, and
never {pare, for that he had commanded them to
multiply for her ufe in abundance. After this
injunction, he returned to the place whence he
came, and has not been heard of fince.
_ Reticion has not as yet begun to dawn among
the Northern Indians; for though their conju-
rors do indeed fing fongs, and make long {peech-
es, to fome beafts and birds of prey, as alfo to
imaginary beings, which they fay aflift them in
performing

one

344

A JOURNEY TO THE

performing cures on the fick. yet they, as well
as their credulous neighbours, are utterly dedfti-
tute of every idea of practical religion. It is |
true, fome of them will reprimand their youth |
for talking difrefpectfully of particular beafts and.

birds; but it is done with fo little energy, as to |
be often retorted back in derifion. Neither is
this, nor their cuttom of not killing wolves and
quiquehatches, univerfally obferved, and thofe
who do it can only be viewed with more pity and
contempt than the others; for I always found it
arofe merely from the greater degree of confi-
dence which they had in the fupernatural power
of their conjurors, which induced them to believe,
that talking lightly or difrefpectfully of any thing
they feemed to-approve, would materially affect
their health and happinefs in this world: and I
never found any of them that had the leaft idea |
of futurity. Matonabbee, without one excepti- |
on, was a man of as clear ideas in other matters |
as any that lever faw. he was not only a perfect |
mafter of the Southern Indian language, and their |
belief, but could tell a better ftory of our Savi-
our’s birth and life, than one halt of thofe who
call themfelves Chriitians ; yet he always declar-
ed to me, that neither he, nor any of his coun-"
trymen, had an idea of a future tate. Though
he had been taught to look on things of this
kind as ufelefs, his own good fenfe had taught
him to be an advocate for univerfal toleration 5

-and I have icen him feveral times aflift at fome of

the

NORTHERN OCEAN.

the moft facred rites performed by the Southern
Indians, apparently with as much zeal, as if he had
given as much credit to them as they did: and
with the fame liberality of fentiment he would,
I am perfuaded have aflified at the altar of a Chri-
fiian church, or in a Jewifh fynagogue; not
with a view to reap any advantage himfelf, but
merely, as he obferved, to affitt others who believ-
ed in fuch ceremonies. |

Being thus deftitute of all religious controul,
thefe people have, to ufe Matonabbee’s own words,
“nothing to do but confult their own intereft,
* inclinations, and paflions ; and to pafs through
*¢ this world with as much eafe and contentment
“as poflible, without any hopes of reward, or
* painful fear of punifhment in the next.’”” In
this ftate of mind they are, when in profperity,
the happieft of mortals; for nothing but perfonal
_ or family calamities can difturb their tranquillity,
while misfortunes of the lefler kind fit light on
them. Like moft other uncivilized people, they
bear bodily pain with great fortitude, though in
that refpect I cannot think them equal to the Sou-
thern Indians.

Old age is the greateft calamity that can befal a
Northern !ndian ; for when he is paft labour, he
is neglected, and treated with great. difrefped,
even by his own children. hey not only ferve
him laft at meals, but generally give him the
coarfeft and worft of the victuals : and {uch of the
dkins as they do not chufe to wear, are made up

in

345

346

A JOURNEY TO THE

in the clumfieft manner into clothing for theit
aged parents; who, as they had, in all probabi-
lity, treated their fathers and mothers with the
fame neglect, in their turns, fubmitted patiently.
to their lot, even without a murmur, knowing
it to be the common misfortune attendant an old
age; fo that they may be faid to wait patiently
for the melancholy hour when, being no longer
capable of walking, they are to be left alone, to.
ftarve and perifh for want. This, however,
Shocking and unnatural it may appear, is never-
thelefs fo common, that, among thofe people, one
half at leaft of the aged perfons of both fexes ab-
folutely die in this miferable condition.

The Northern Indians call the Aurora Borealis,
Ed-thin ; that is, Deer*: and when that meteor is
very bright, they fay that deer is plentiful in that
part of the atmofphere ; but they have never yet
extended their ideas fo far as to entertain hopes
of tafting thofe celeftial animals.

Befide this filly notion, they are very fipaehe
tious with refpect to the exiftence of feveral kinds
of fairies, called by them Nant-e-na, whom they
frequently fay they fee, and who are fuppofed by

them

* Their ideas in this refpeét are founded on a principle one would not
imagine. Experience has thewn them, that when a hairy deer-fkin is
brifkly ftroked with the handin a dark night, it will emit many fparks of —
eleétrical fire, as the back of a cat will. The idea which the Southern
Indians have ofthis meteor is equally romantic, though more pleafing, as
they believe it to be the fpirits of their departed friends dancing in the
clouds ; and when the Aurora Borealis is remarkably bright, at which time
they vary moft in colour, form, and fituation, they fay, their deceafed
friends are very merry, 7

NORTHERN OCEAN.

hem to inhabit the different elements of earth,
fea, and air, according to their feveral qualities.
To one or other of thofe fairies they ufually at-
tribute any change in their circumflances, either
for the better or worfe ; and as they are led into

.

=

this way of thinking entirely by the art of the
conjurors, there is no fuch thing as any general
mode of belief; for thofe jugglers differ fo much
from each other in their accounts of thefe beings,
that thofe who believe any thing they fay, have
little to do but change their opinions according
to the will and caprice of the conjuror, who is al-
moft daily relating fome new whim, or extraor-
dinary event, which, he fays, has been revealed
‘to him in adream, or by fome of his favourite
fairies, when ona hunting excurfion.

Some

|

347

348

A JOURNEY TO THE

Some Account of MatronasBee, and of the eminent
- Services which he rendered to his Country, as well
as to the Hudfon’s Bay Company.

MaTonaBsee was the fon of a Northern Indi-
an by a flave woman, who was formerly bought
from fome Southern Indians who came to Prince:
of Wales’s Fort with furrs, €%c. This match was
made by Mr. Richard Norton, then Governor,
who detained them at and near the Fort, for th
fame purpofe as he did thofe Indians called Homes|
guard. As to Matonabbee’s real age, it is im-§
poflible to be particular; for the natives of thofe]
parts being utterly unacquainted with letters, on
the ufe of hieroglyphics, though their memories
are not lefs retentive than thofe of other nations,
cannot preferve and tranfmit to pofterity the ex.|
act time when any particular event happens. In-|
deed, the utmoft extent of their chronology reach.|
es no farther, than to fay, My fon, or my daugh
ter, was born in fuch a Governor’s time, and
fuch an event happened during fuch a perfon’s
life-time (though, perhaps, he or fhe has been!
dead many years). However, according to ap:
pearance, 2nd fome corroborating circumftances,
Matonabbee was born about the year one thou-
fand feven hundred and thirty-fix, or one thou.)
fand feven hundred and thirty-feven; and his
father dying while he was young, the cece

took

NORTHERN OCEAN.

took the boy, and, according to the Indian cuf-
tom, adopted him as his fon.
Soon after the death of Matonabbee’s father,
Mr. Norton went to England, and as the boy did
not experience from his fucceflor the fame regard
and attention which he had been accuftomed to
receive form Mr. Norton, he was foon taken from
the Factory by fome of his father’s relations, and
continued with the Northern Indians till Mr.
Ferdinand Jacobs fucceeded to the command of
Prince of Wales’s Fort, in the year one thoufand
jfieven hundred and fifty-two; when out of re-
gard to old Mr. Norton, (who was then dead,)
| Mr. Jacobs took the firft opportunity that offered
to detain Matonabbee at the Factory, where he
was for feveral years employed in the hunting-
fervice with fome of the Company’s fervants,
particularly with the late Mr. Mofes Norton*,
} (fon of the late Governor,) and Mr. Magnus
Johnitont.
_In the courfe of his long ftay at and near the
Fort, it is no wonder that he fhould have become
perfec mafter of the Southern Indian language,
and made {ome progrefs in the Englifh. It was
during this period, that he gained a knowledge
of the Chriftian faith; and he always declared,
that it was too deep and intricate for his compre-
henfion. Though he was a perfect bigot with
re{pect

* Afterwards Governor.
J Matter of the Churchill floope

349

G2?

A JOURNEY TO THE

refpect to the arts and tricks of Indian jugglers,
yet he could by no means be imprefled with a be. |
lief of any part of our religion, nor of the religi-
on of the Southern Indians, who have as firma
belief in a future ftate as any people under the
Sun. He had fo much natural good fenfe and |
liberality of fentiment, however, as not to think
that he had a right to ridicule any particular fee
on account of their religious opinions. On the
contrary, he declared, that he held them all equal- |
ly in efteem, but was determined, as he came in. ©
to the world, fo he would go out of it, without f
profeiling any religion at all. Notwithftanding
his averfion from religion, I have met with few
Chriftians who poflefled more good moral qua |
ties, or fewer bad ones. |
It 1s impoflible for any man to have been more

punctual in the performance of a promife than he
was; his fcrupulous adherence to truth and ho-

nefty would have done honour to the moft en-

lightened and devout Chriftian, while his benevo-

lence and univerfal humanity to all the human.

race*, according to his abilities and manner of
life,

j

*{ muft here obferve, that when we went to war with the Efquie
maux at the Copper River in July 1771, it was by no means his propofal:
on the contrary, he was forced into it by his countrymen. For I have
heard him fay, that when he firft vifited that river, in company with |
¥-dot-le-aza, they met with feveral E(quimaux; and fo far from killing —
them, were very friendly tothem, and madethem fall prefents of fuch i
articles as they could beft fpare, and that would be~of mott ufe to them. |

Tt is more than probable that the two bits of iron fouad among the plun- |
; der

NORTHERN OCEAN.

life, could not be exceeded by the moft illuftri-
ous perfonage now on record; and to add to his
other good qualities, he was the only Indian that
Lever faw, except one, who was not guilty of
backbiting and flandering his neighbours.

In ftature, Matonabbee was above the common
fize, being nearly fix feet hight; and, except that
his neck was rather (though not much) too fhort,
he was one of the fineft and beft proportioned
men that I ever faw. In complexion he was
dark, like the other Northern Indians, but his
face was not disfigured by that ridiculous cuftom
of marking the cheeks with three or four black
lines. His features were ragular and agreeable,
and yet fo ftrongly marked and expreflive, that
they formed a completeindex of his mind; which,
as he never intended to deceive or diffemble,
he never wifhed to conceal. In converfation he was
eafy, lively, and agreeable, but exceedingly mo-
deft ; and at table, the noblenefs and elegance of
his manners might have been admired by the firft

perfonages in the world; for to the vivacity ofa

Frenchman,

der while | was there, were part ofthofe prefents. There were alfoa few
Jong beads found among thofe people, but quite different from any that
the Hudfon’s Bay Company had ever fent to the Bay; fo that the only
probable way they could have come by them, muft have been by an inter.
courfe with {ome of their tribe, who had dealings with the Danes in Da-
vis’s Straits. Jt is very probable, however, they might have pafled
through many hands before they reached this remote place. Had they
had an immediste intercourfe with the Efquimaux in Davis’s Straits, it is
natural to fuppofe that iron would not have been fo fcarce among them
as it feemed to be; indeed the diftance is too great to admit of it,

jl have feentwo Northern Indians who meafured fix feet three inches;
and one, fix feet four inches,

St

352

A JOURNEY TO THE

Frenchman, and the fincerity of an Englifhman,
he added the gravity and noblenefs of a Purk; alk
fo happily blended, as to render his company and
converfation univerfalily pleafing to thofe who
underftood either the Northern or Southern Jndi- —
an languages, the only languages in which he @
could converfe. |
He was remarkably fond of Spanith wines,
though he never drank to excefs; and as he
would not partake of fpirituous liquors, however
fine in. quality or plainly mixed, he was always —
matter of himfelf. As no man is exempt from
frailties, it is natural to fuppofe that as a man he ©
had his fhare ; but the greateft with which I can
charge him, is jealoufy, and that fometimes carri-
ed him beyond the bounds of humanity.
In his early youth he difcovered talents equal
to the greateft tafk that could poffibly be expect-
ed from an Indian. Accordingly Mr. Jacobs,
then Governor at Prince of Wales’s Fort, engag-
ed him, when but a youth, as an Ambaflador
and Mediator between the Northern Indians and
the Athapufcow Tribe, who till then had always
been at war with each other. In the courfe of
this embafly Matonabbee not only difcovered
the moft brilliant and folid parts, but fhewed an _
extenfive knowledge of every advantage that
could arife to both nations from a total fupprefli-
on of holtilities; and at times he difplayed fuch ~
inftances of perfonal courage and magnanimity,
as

NORTHERN OCEAN,

as are rarely to be found among perfons of fupe-
rior condition and rank.

He had not penetrated far into the country of
the Athapufcow Indians, before he came to feve-
ral tents with inhabitants; and there, to his great
furprife, he found Captain Keelfhies, (a perfon
frequently mentioned in this Journal*,) who was
then a prifoner, with all his family and fome of
his friends, the fate of whom was then undeter-
mined; but through the means of. Matonabbee,
though young enough to have been his fon, Keel-
fhies and a few others were releafed, with the
lofs of his effe¢éts and all his wives, which were
fix in number. Matonabbee not only kept his
ground after Keelfhies and his {mall party had
been permitted to return, but made his way into
the very heart of the Athapufcow country, in
order to have a perfonal conference with all or
moft of the principal inhabitants. The farther
he advanced, the more occafion he had for intre-
pidity. At one time he came to five tents of
_ thofe favages, which in the whole contained fix-
teen men, befides their wives, childern, and fer-
vants, while he himfelf was entirelyalone, except
one wife and a fervant boy. The Southern Indi-
ans, ever treacherous, and apparently the more
kind when they are premeditating mifchief, feem-
ed to give hima hearty welcome, accepted the
tenders of peace and reconciliation with apparent

Aa fatisfaction,

* The fame perfon was at Prince of Wales’s Fort when the French arsiv-
edonthe Sth of Auguft 1782, and faw them demolifh the Fort.

a

354

A JOURNEY TO THE

fatisfaction, and, as a mark of their approbation,
each tent in rotation made a feaft, or entertain-
ment, the fame night, and invited him to par-
take; at the laft of which they had concerted a
{cheme to murder him. He was, however, fo
perfect a mafter of the Southern Indian language,
that he foon difcovered their defign, and told
them, he was not come in a hoftile manner, but
if they attempted any thing of the kind he was
determined to fell his life as dear as poffible. On
hearing this, fome of them ordered that his fer-
vant, gun, and fnow-fhoes, (for it was winter,)
fhould be brought into the tent and fecured;
but he fprung from his feat, feized his gun and
fnow-fhoes, and went out of the tent, telling
them, if they had an intention to moleft him,
that was the proper place where he could fee his
enemy, and be under no apprehenfions of being
thot cowardly through the back. ‘‘I am fure
‘¢ (faid he) of killing two or three of you, and if
“¢ you chufe to purchafe my life at that price,
“ now is the time; but if otherwife, let me de-
“¢ part without any farther moleftation.””’ They
then told him he was at liberty to go, on condi-
tion of leaving his fervant ; but to this he would
not confent. He then rufhed into the tent and
took his fervant by force from two men; when
finding there was no appearance of farther
danger, he fet out on his return to the frontiers
of his own country, and from thence to the |
Factory.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

The year following he again vifited the Atha-
pufcow country, accompanied by a confiderable
number of chofen men of his own nation, who
were fo far fuperior to fuch fmall parties of the
Southern Indians as they had met, that they
commanded refpect wherever they came; and
having traverfed the whole country, and converf-
ed with all the principal men, peace and friend-
fhip were apparently re-eftablifhed. According-
ly, when the Spring advanced the Northern In-
dians began to difperfe, and draw out to the Eaft-
ward on the barren ground; but Matonabbee,
and a few others, chofe to pafs the Summer in the
Athapufcow country. As foon as the Southern
Indians were acquainted with this defign, and
found the number of theNorthern Indians fo re-
duced, a fuperior number of them dogged and
harafled them the whole Summer, with a view to
furprife and kill them when afleep; and with
that view twice actually approached fo near their
tents as fifty yards. But Matonabbee told them,
as he had done when alone, that though there
were but few of them, they were all determined
to fell their lives as dear as poffible: on which the
Southern Indians, without making any reply, re-
tired ; for no Indians in this country have the
courage to face their enemies when they find
them apprized of their approach, and on their
guard to reccive them.

Notwithftanding all thefe difcouragements and
great dangers, Matonabbee perfevered with cou-

Aa? rage

ws

356

A JOURNEY TO THE
tage and refolution to vifit the Athapufcow Indi-

ans for feveral years fucceflively ; and at length,
by an uniform difplay of his pacific difpofition, —

and by rendering a long train of good offices to

thofe Indians, in return for their treachery and
perfidy, he was fo happy as to be the fole inftru-
ment of not only bringing about a lafting peace,
but alfo of eftablifhing a trade and reciprocal in-
tereft between the two nations. |
' After having performed this great work, he
was prevailed upon to vifit the Copper-mine Ri- —
ver, in company with a famous leader, called
T-dat-le-aza; and it was from the report of thofe
two men, that a journey to that part was propof-
ed to the Hudfon’s Bay Company by the late Mr.
Mofes Norton, in one thoufand feven hundred
and fixty-nine. In one thoufand feven hundred
and feventy he was engaged as the principal guide
on that expedition; which he performed with
greater punctuality, and more to my fatisfaction,
than perhaps any other Indian in all that country
would have done. At his return to the Fort in
one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-two, he
was made head of all the Northern Indian nation; —
and continued -to render great fervices to the
Company during his life, by bringing a greater
quantity of furrs to their Factory at Churchill |
River, than any other Indian ever did, or
ever will do. His. laft vifit to Prince of Wales’s |
Fort was in the Spring of one thoufand feven _
hundred and eighty-two, and he intended to have |
repeated —

NORTHERN OCEAN.

- repeated it in the Winter following; but when
he heard that the French had deftroyed the Fort,
and carried off all the Company’s fervants, he
never afterwards reared his head, but took an
opportunity, when noone {fufpected his intenti-
on, to hang himfelf. This is the more to be
wondered at, as he is the only Northern Indian
who, that I ever heard, put an end to his own
exiftence. The death of this man-was a great
lofs to the Hudfon’s Bay Company, and was at-
tended with a moft melancholy fcene; no lefs
than the death of fix of his wives, and four chil.
dren, all of whom were ftarved to death the fame
Winter, in one thoufand feven hundred and
ecighty-three.

CHAP.

«BAT

358

A JOURNEY TO THE

CC sepOA oD, 4 Ke

An Account of the principal Quadrupeds found in the

Northern Parts of Hudfon’s Bay.——The Buffalo,
Moofe, Mufk-ox, Deer, and Beaver.—-A capital
Miftake cleared up refpecting the We-was-kifh.

Animals with Canine Teeth ——The Wolf— .
Foxes of various colours—Lynx, or Wild Cat—Po- |

lar, or White Bear—Black Bear—Brown Bear—
Wolverene-—Otter—-Fackafb—Wejack — Skunk—
Pine Martin —Eriine, or Stote.

Animals with cutting Teeth. ——The Mufk Bea-
ver—Porcupine—Varying Hare—-American Hare

—Cemmon Squirrel—Ground Squirrel—Mice of ©

various Kinds,—and the Caftor Beaver.
The Pinnated Quadrupeds with finlike Feet,
found in Hudfon’s Bay, are but three in number,

viz. the Warlus, or Sea-Horfe,—Seal,—and Sea- : |

Unicorn.

The Species of Fifh found in the Salt Water of Hud-

Sows Bay are alfo few in number ; being the Black
Whale—White Whale—Salmon—and Kepling.

Shell-jife, and empty Shells of feveral kinds, found
on the Sea Coa/t near Churchill River.

—

Frogs of various fizes and colours; alfoa great vari-.

ety of Grubbs, and other Infects, always found in a

Jrozen ftate during Winter, but when expofed to the |

heat of a fl.w fire, are foon re-animated.

An}

NORTHERN OCEAN. 359

win Account of fome of the principal Birds found in the
NorthernParts of Hudfon's Bay; as well thofe that on-
ly migrate there in Summer, as thofe that are known
to brave the colde/t Winters :——Eagles of various
kinds—Hawks of various fizes and plumage—White
or Snowy Owl—---Grey or motled Owl—Cob-a-dee-
cooch—Raven—Cinerious Crow—Wooed Pecker—
Ruffed Groufe—-Pheafant—-Wood Partridge-—
Willow Partridge—Rock Partridge---Pigeon—Red-
breafted Thrufh—--Grofbeak—-Snow Bunting-—
White-crowned Bunting—Lapland Finch, two forts
—Lark—Titmoufe—Swallow—Martin--- Hopping
Crane—Brown Crane—Bitron—Carlow, two forts
—Fack Snipe—Red Godwart—-Plover—-Black
Gullemet— Northern Diver—Black-throated Diver
—Red-toroated Diver—White Guil---Grey Gull---
Black-head---Peltican---Goofander---Swans of two
JSpecies---Common Grey Goofe---Canada Goofe---White
» or Snow Goofe--- Blue Goofe--- Horned Wavy---Laugh-
sing Goofe---Barren Goofe---Brent Goofe---Dunter
Goofe--- Bean Goofe.

The Species of Water-Fowl ufually called Duck,
that refort to thofe Parts annually, are in great va-
riety; but thofe that are moft efteemed are, the Mal-
lard Duck,—Long-tailed Duck,---Wigeon, and Teal.

Of the Vegetable Produétions as far North as Church-
ill River, particularly the moft ufeful; fuch as the
Berry-bearing Bujfhes, &c. Goofeberry---Cran-
berry----Heathberry---Dewater-berry---Black Curs
rans--- funiper-berry--Partridge-berry---Strawber-

ry,

360

A JOURNEY TO THE

ry---Eye-berry---Blue-Berry,---and a fmall fpecies
of Hips.
Burridge---Colisfoot—Sorrel— Dandelion, |
Wifb-a-capucca—fackafhey-puck—Mofs of va-
rious forts—Gra/fs of feveral kinds—and Vetches.
The Trees found fo far North near the Sea, con-
Sift only of Pines—Funiper—Small Poplar Bufh-
willows—-and Creeping Birch.

EFORE I conclude this work, it may not be
improper to give a fhort account of the
principal Animals that frequent the high Nor-
thern latitudes, though moft of them arefound alfo
far to the Southward, and confequently in much
milder climates: The buffalo, mufk-ox, deer,
and the moofe, have been already defcribed in
this Journal. I fhall therefore only make a few |
remarks on the latter, in order to rectify a mif-
take, which, from-wrong information, has crept
into Mr. Pennant’s Aratic Zoology. In page 2t
of that elegant work, he claffes the Moofe with
the We-was-kifh, though it certainly has not any
affinity to it.

The We-was-kifh, or as fome (though impro-
perly) call it, the Wafkefle, is quite a different ani-
mal from the moofe, being by no means fo large |
in fize. The horns of the We-was-kifh are fome-
thing fimilar to thofe of the common deer, but
are not palmated in any part. They ftand more

upright, have fewer branches, and want the brow- _

antler. The head of this animal is fo far from |
being |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

being like that of the Moofe, that the nofe is
fharp, like the nofe of a fheep: indeed, the whole
external appearance of the head is not very un-
like that of an afs. The hair is ufually of a fandy
red; and they are frequently called by the Englifh
who vifit the interior parts of the country, red
deer. Their flefh is tolerable eating; but the
fat is as hard as tallow, and if eaten as hot as
poffible, will yet chill in fo fhort a time, that it
clogs the teeth, and fticks to the roof of the mouth,
in fuch a manner as to render it very difagree-
able. In the Spring of one thoufand feven hun-
dred and feventy-five, 1 had thirteen fledge-loads
of this meat brought to Cumberland Houfe in one
day, and alfo two of the heads of this animal un-
fkinned, but the horns were chopped off; a proof
of their wearing them the whole Winter. They
are the moft ftupid of all the deer kind, and fre-
quently make a fhrill whiftling, and quivering
noife, not very unlike the braying of anafs, which
directs the hunter to the very fpot where they
are. They generally keep in large herds, and
when they find plenty of pafture, remain a long
time in one place. Thofe deer are feldom an
object of chace with the Indians bordering on
Bafquiau, except when moofe and other game
fail. Their fkins, when drefled, very much re-
femble that of the moofe, though they are much
thinner, and have this peculiar quality, that they
will wath as well as fhamoy leather ; whereas all
the other leathers and pelts drefled by the Indians,

if

362

Wolves,

A JOURNEY TO THE

if they get wet, turn quite hard, unlefs great care
be taken to keep conftantly rubbing them while
drying.

The perfon who informed Mr. Pennant that
the we-was-kifh and the moofe are the fame ani-
mal, never faw one of them ; and the only reafon
he had to fuppofe it, was the great refemblance of
their fkins: yet it is rather ftrange, that fo inde-
fatigable a collector of Natural Hiflory as the
late Mr. Andrew Graham, fhould have omitted
making particular enquiry about them: for any
foreign Indian, particularly thofe that refide near
Bafquiau, could eafily have convinced him to the
contrary.

Animals with Canine Teeth.

Wo ves are frequently met with in the coun-
tries Weft of Hudfon’s Bay, both on the barren
grounds and among the woods, but they are not
numerous; it is very uncommon to fee more
than three or four of them in aherd. Thofe
that keep to the Weftward, among the woods,
are generally of the ufual colour, but the greateft
part of thofe that are killed by the Efquimaux
are perfe@ly white. All the wolves in Hudfon’s -
Bay are very fhy of the human race, yet when
fharp fet, they frequently follow the Indians for
feveral days, but always keep at a diftance.
{hey are great enemies to the Indian dogs, and

frequently

NORTHERN OCEAN. 363

frequently kill and eat thofe that are heavy load-
ed, and cannot keep up with the main body.
The Northern Indians have formed flrange ideas
of this animal, as they think it does not eat its
victuals raw ; but by a fingular and wonderful
fagacity, peculiar to itfelf, has a method of cook-
ing them without fire. The females are much
{wifter than the males; for which reafon the Jn-
dians, both Northern and Southern, are of opint-
on that they kill the greateft part of the game.
This cannot, however, always be the cafe; for to
the North of Churchill they, in general, live a for-
lorn life all the Winter, and are feldom feen in
pairs till the Spring, when they begin to couple;
and generally keep in pairs all the Summer.
They always burrow under-ground to bring
forth their yonng; and though it is natural to
fuppofe them very fierce at thofe times, yet I
have frequently feen the Indians go to their dens,
and take out the young ones and play with them.
I never knew a Northern Indian hurt one of
them: on the contrary, they always put them
carefully into the den again; and I have fome-
times feen them paint the faces of the young
Wolves with vermillion, or red ochre.

The Arctic Foxes are in fome years remarka- foxes of
bly plentiful, but generally moft fo on the barren ("°°
ground, near the fea-coaft. Notwithftanding
what has been faid of this animal only vifiting the
fettlements once in five or feven years, | can aflirm
there is not one year in twenty that they are not
: caught

364

A JOURNEY TO THE

| caught in greater or lefs numbers at Churchill ; |

and I have known that for three years running, _
not lefs than from two hundred to four hundred —
have been caught each year within thirty miles —
of the Fort. They always come from the North
along the coaft, and generally make their appear-
ance at Churchill about the middle of O&ober,
but their fkins are feldom in feafon till Novem-
ber; during that time they are never molefted,
but permitted to feed round the Fort, till by de-
grees they become almoft domeftic. The great
numbers of thofe animals that vifit Churchill Ri-
ver in fome years do not all come in a body, as
it would be impoflible for the fourth part of them
to find fubfiftence by the way; but when they
come near the Fort, the carcafles of dead whales
lying along the fhores, and the fkin and other
offal, after boiling the oil, afford them a plentiful -
repaft, and prove the means of keeping them
about the Fort till, by frequent reinforcements
from the Northward, their numbers are fo far in-
creafed as almoft to exceeded credibility.

When their fkins are in feafon, a number of
traps and guns are fet, and the greateft part of
them are caught in one month, though fome few
are found during the whole Winter. I have fre-
quently known near forty killed in one night
within half a mile of Prince of Wales’s Fort; but
this feldom happens after the firft or fecond night. |
When Churchill River is frozen over near the
mouth, the greateft part of the furviving white

Foxes.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

| Foxes crofs the river, and direct their courfe to
the Southward, and in fome years aflemble in
confiderable numbers at York Fort and Severn
River. Whether they are all killed, or what be-
comes of thofe which efcape, is very uncertain ;
but it is well known that none of them ever mi-
grate againto the Northward. Befides taking a
trap fo freely, they are otherwife fo fimple, that I
have feen them fhot off-hand while feeding, the
fame as {parrows in a heap of chaff, fometimes
two or three atafhot. This fport is always moft
fuccefsful in moon-light nights; for in the day-
time they generally keep in their holes among
the rocks, and under the hollow ice at high-wa-
ter-mark.

Thefe animals will prey on each other as readi-
ly as on any other animals they find dead ina
trap, or wounded by gun; which renders them
fo deftructive, that I have known upwards of one
hundred and twenty Foxes of different colours
eaten, and deftroyed in their traps by their com-
trades in the courfe of one Winter, within half a
mile of the Fort.

The Naturalifts feem ftill at a lofs to know their
breeding-places, which are doubtlefs in every part
of the coaft they frequent. Several of them
breed near Churchill, and I have feen them in
confiderable numbers all along the Weft coaft of
Hudfon’s Bay, particularily at Cape Efquimaux,
Navel’s Bay, and Whale Cove, alfo on Marble
Ifland; fo that with fome degree of confidence

we

365

The White
Fox.

The Lynx,
or WildCat.

A JOURNEY TO THE

we may affirm, that they breed on every part of
the coaft they inhabit during the Summer feafon.
They generally have from three to five young at —
a litter; moreI never faw with one old one. |
When young they are all over almoft of a footy |
black, but as the fall advances, the belly, fides,
and tail turn to a light afh-colour; the back,
legs, fome part of the face, and the tip of the tail,
changes to a lead colour; but when the Winter
fets in they become perfectly white: the ridge of
the back and the tip of the tail are the laft places _
that change to that colour; and there are few
of them which have not a few dark hairs at the
tip of the tail all the Winter. If taken young,
they are eafily domefticated in fome degree, but
I never faw one that was fond of being carefled ; _
and they are always impatient of confinement.

Wuite Foxes, when killed at any confidera.-
ble diftance from the fea coaft, (where they can-
not poflibly get any thing to prey upon, except
rabbits, mice, and partridges,) are far from being
difagreeable eating. And on Marble IflandI have
fhot them when they were equal in flavour to a
rabbit; probably owing to their feeding entirely
on eggs and young birds; but near Churchill
River they are as rank as train-oil.

The Lynx, or Wixtp Car, is very fcarce to
the North of Churchill; but is exactly the fame
as thofe which are found in great plenty to the
South Weft. I have obferved the tracks of this
‘animal at Churchill, and feen them killed, and

have

NORTHERN OCEAN.

have eaten of their flefh in the neighbourhood
of York Fort. ‘The flefh is white, and nearly as
good as that of arabbit. They are I think, much
larger than that which is defcribed in the Arétic
Zoology ; they never approach near the fettle-
_ ments in Hudfon’s Bay, and are very deftructive
to rabbits; they feldom leave a place which is
frequented by rabbits till they have nearly killed
them all.

on the fea-coaft, is feldom found in its Winter
retreats by any of our Northern Indians, except
near Churchill River; nor do I fuppofe that the
Efquimaux fee or kill any of them more fre-
quently during that feafon; for in the courfe of
many years refidence at Churchill River, I {carce-
ly ever faw a Winter fkin brought from the
Northward by the floop. Probably the Efqi-
maux, if they kill any, may referve the fkins for
their own ufe; for at that feafon their hair is
very long, with a thick bed of wool at the bot-
tom, and they are remarkably clean and white.
The Winter is the only feafon that fo oily a fkin
as the Bear’s can poflibly be cleaned and drefied
by thofe people, without greafing the hair, which
is very unpleafant to them; for though they eat
| train-oil, &c. yet they are as careful as poflible
to keep their clothes from being greafed with it.
_ To drefs one of thofe greafy {kins in Winter, as
_ foon as taken from the beaft, it is ftretched out
on a fmooth patch of fnow, and there ftaked
| down,

The Potar or Wuire Bear, though common +, p

¥
olar

or White

Bear,

368

A JOURNEY TO THE

down, where it foon freezes as hard as a board :
while in that tate, the women fcrape off all the
fat, till they come to the very roots of the hair.
It is fometimes permitted to remain in that pofiti- |
on fora confiderable time ; and when taken from
the fnow, is hung up inthe open air. The more
intenfe the froft, the greater is its drying quali- |
ty; and by being wafted about by the wind,
with a little {craping, it in time becomes perfect- _
ly fupple, and both pelt and hair beautifully
white. Drying deer, beaver, and otter fkins, in
this manner render their pelts very white, but
not fupple; probably owing to the clofe texture
and thicknefs of their fkins; whereas the fkin of
the bear, though fo large an animal, is remarka-
bly thin and fpungy*.

BLack.

* It is rather fingular that the Polar Bears are feldom found on the land
during the Winter, on which account it is fuppofed they go out on the
ice, and keep near the edge of the water during that feafon, while the fe-
males that are pregnant feek thelter at the fkirts of the woods, and dig |
themfelvesdens in the deepeft drifts of {now they can find, where they re-
main ina ftate of inaétivity, and without food, from the latter end of De=
cember or January, till the latter end of March; at which time they |
leave their dens, and bend their courfe towards the fea with their cubs;
which, in general, are two in number. Notwithftanding the great magni-
tude of thofe animals when full grown, yet their young are not larger than |
yabbits, and when they leave their dens, in March, 1 have frequently feen
them not Jarger than a white fox, and their fteps on the fnow not bigger
than a crown-piece, when thofe of their dam meafure near fifteen inches
long and nine inches broad. They propagate when young, or at leaft be- |
fore they are half-grown ; for I have killed young females not larger than |
a London calf, with milk in their teats; whereas fome of the full grown
ones are heavier than the largeft of our common oxen. Indeed I was once |
at the killing of one, when one of its hind feet being cut offat the ankle,
weighed fifty-four pounds. The males have a bone in their Zenis, asa dog

has,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

369

Buiack Bears are not very numerous to the The Black

North Weftof Churchill. The manner of life is E

the fame of the reft of the fpecies, though the
face of the country they inhabit, differs widely
from the more mild climates. In Summer they
proul about in fearch of berries, €c. and as the
Winter approaches, retire to their dens, which
are always under-ground; and generally, if not
always, on the fide ofa {mall hillock. The Bears
that inhabit the Southern parts of America are
faid to take up their winter abode in hollow trees;
but I never faw any trees in my Northern travels,
that could afford any fuch fhelter.

The places of retreat of thofe Bears that bur-
row under-ground are eafily difcovered in Win-
ter, by the rime that hangs about the mouth of
the den; for let the fnow be ever fo deep, the

Bb ; heat

has, and of courfe unite in copulation; but the time of their cqurthhip is I
believe, not exa@ily known: probably it may be in July or Augut, for at
thofe times [ have often been at the killing them, when the males were fo
attached to their miftreffes, that after the female was killed, the male
would put his two fore-paws over, and fuffer himfelf to be fhot before he
would quit her. I have frequently feen and killed thofe animals near
twelve leagues from the land; but as the Fall of the year advances, they
are taught by inftiné& to feek the fhore. ‘Though fuch a tremendous ani-
mal, they are very fhy of coming near a man; but when clofely purfued
in the water, they frequently attack the boat, feize the oars, and wreft
them from the hands of the ftrongeft man, feeming defirous to go on
board; but the people on thofe occafions are always provided with fire-
armsand hatchets, to prevent fuch an unwelcome vifit, The fiefh of this
animal, when killed in Winter, (if not too old,) is far from being unplea-
fant eating; and the young cubs, in the Spring, are rather delicate than
otherwife. The teats of the females are only two in number, and are
placed between the fore-legs. The beft Drawing of this Animal I have
feen, is that done by Mr, Webber, among the Plates of Cook’s laft Voyage.

car.

A JOURNEY TO THE

heat and breath of the animal prevents the mouth
of the den from being entirely clofed up. They
generally retire to their Winter quarters before
the fnow is of any confiderable depth, and never
come abroad again (unlefs difturbed) till the
thaws are confiderable, which in thofe high lati-
tudes is feldom till the latter end of March or the
beginning of April; fo that the few Black Bears
that inhabit thofe cold regions may be faid to —
fubfift for four months at leaft without food. I

have been prefent at the killing two of them in

Winter; andthe Northern Indian method is fimi- ©

lar to that faid to be in ufe among the Kamtfchat-
kans; for they always blocked up the mouth of
the den with logs of wood, then broke open the
top of it, and killed the animal either with a
fpear or a gun; but the latter method is reck-
oned both cowardly and wafteful, as it is not
poflible for the Bear either-to make its efcape, or
to do the Indians the leaft injurv. Sometimes
they put a fnare about the Bear’s neck, and draw

up his head clofe to the hole, and kill him witha ©

hatchet. Though thofe animals are but fcarce to
the North of Churchill, yet they are fo-nume-
rous between York Fort and Cumberland Houfe,
that in one thoufand feven hundred and feventy- |
four I faw eleven killed in the courfe of oneday’s |
journey, but their flefh was abominable. This
was in the month of June, Jong before any fruit
was ripe, for the want of which they then fed ~
entirely on water infects, which in fome of the
lakes

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Jakes we crofled that day were in aftonifhing
multitudes*.

The method by which the Bears catch thofe in-
fects is by {wimming with their mouths open, in
the fame manner as the whales do, when feeding
on the fea-fpider. There was not one of the
Bears killed that day, which had not its ftemach
as full of thofe infects (only) as ever a hog’s was
with grains, and when cut open, the ftench from
them was intolerable. I have, however, eaten of
fome killed at that early feafon which were very
good; but they were found among the woods,
far from the places where thofe infects haunt, and
had fed on grafs and other herbage. After the
middle of July, when the berries begin to ripen,
they are excellent eating, and fo continue till Ja-
nuary or February following; but late in the
Spring they are, by long fafting, very poor and
dry eating.

The Southern Indians kill great numbers of
thofe Bears at all feafons of the year; but no en-
couragement can prevent them from tingeing al-

Bb 2 moft

* The infects here {poken of are of twokinds; the one is nearly black,
its fkin hard like a beetle, and not very unlike a grafshopper, and darts
through the water with great eafe, and with fome degree of velocity. The
other fort is brown, has wings, and isas foft as the common cleg-fly. The
latter are the moft numerous; and in fome of the lakes fuch quantities of
them are forced into the bays in gales of wind, and there prefled together
in fuch multitudes, that they are killed, and remain there a great nui-
fance; for I have feveral times, in my inland voyages from York Fort,
found it f{carcely poffible to land in fome of thofe bays for the intolerable
ftench of thofe infects, which in fome places were lying in putrid mafles to

the depth of two or three feet. It is more than probable, that the Bear.

- occafionally feed on thefe dead infeéts,

37%

372 A JOURNEY TO THE

moft every one that is in good condition: fo that
the few fkins they do fave and bring to the mar-
ket, are only of thofe which are fo poor that their
flefh is not worth eating*. In fact, the fkinning
of a Bear {poils the meat thereof, as much as it
would do to {kin a young porker, or a roafting
pig. The fame may be faid of fwans (the fkins
of which the Company have lately made an arti-
cle of trade); otherwife thoufands of their fkins |
might be brought to market annually, by the In-
dians that trade with the Hudfon’s Bay Compa-
ny’s fervants at the different fettlements about

the Bay.
The Brown DROWN Bears are, I believe, never found in
saan the North-Indian territories: but I faw the fkin

of an enormous grizzled Bear at the tents of the
Efquimaux at the Copper River; and many of
them are faid to breed not very remote from that

part.
TheWolvee The WoLvereENe is common in the Northern
sia regions, as far North as the Copper River, and
perhaps farther. hey are equally the inhabitants
of woods and barren grounds; for the Efquimaux
to the North of Churchill kill many of them when
their fkins are in excellent feafon: a proof of
| their

* It is common for the Southern Indians to tame and domefticate the
young cubs; and they are frequently taken fo young that they cannot eat.
Onthofe occafions the Indians oblige their wives who have milk in their
breafts to fuckle them. And one of the Company’s fervants, whofe name
js [aac Batt, willing to be as great a brute as his Indian companions, abfo-
Jutely forced one of his wives, who had recently loft her infant, to fuckle a

young Bear.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

_ their being capable of braving the fevereft cold.
They are very flow in their pace, but their won-
derful fagacity, ftrength, and acute fent, make
ample amends for that defect; for they are {el-
dom killed at any feafon when they do not prove
very fat: a great proof of their being excellent
providers. With refpect to the fiercenefs of this
animal which fome affert, I can fay little, but I
I know them to be beafts of great courage and
refolution, for | once faw one of them take pof-
feflion of a deer that an Indian had killed, and
though the Indian advanced within twenty yards,
he would not relinquifh his claim to it, but fuf-
fered himfelf to be fhot ftanding on the deer. I
once faw a fimilar inftance of a lynx, or wild cat,
which alfo fuffered itfelf, to be killed before it
would relinquifh the prize. The wolverenes
have alfo frequently been feen to take a deer
from a wolf before the latter had time to begin
his repaft after killing it. Indeed their amazing
ftrength, and the length and fharpnefs of their
- claws, render them capable of making a ftrong
refiftance again{ft any other animal in thofe parts,
the Bear not excepted. As a proof of their
amazing itrength, there was one at Churchill
fome years fince, that overfet the greateft part of
a large pile of wood, (containing a whole Win-
ter’s firing, that meafured upwards of feventy
yards round,) to get at fome provifions that had
been hid there by the Company’s fervants, when
going to the Factory to fpend the Chriftmas holi-

days.

373

374

A JOURNEY TO THE

days. The fact was, this animal had been lurk-
ing about in the neighbourhood of their tent
(which was about eight miles from the Fattory)
for fome weeks, and had committed many de-
predations on the game caught in their traps and
{nares, as well as eaten many foxes that were kill-
ed by guns fet for that purpofe: but the Wolve-
rene was too cunning to take either trap or gun
himfelf. The people knowing the mifchievous |
difpofition of thofe animals, took (as they

thought) the moft effectual method to fecure the

remains of their provifions, which they did not
chufe to carry home, and accordingly tied it up |
in bundles and placed it on the top of the wood-
pile, (about two miles from their tent,) little
thinking the Wolverene would find it out; but
to their great furprize, when they returned to
their tent after the holidays, they found the pile
of wood in the flate already mentioned, though
fome of the trees that compofed it were as much
as two men could carry. The only reafon the
people could give for the animal doing fo much
amifchief was, that in his attempting to carry off
the booty, fome of the {mall parcels of provifions
had fallen down into the heart of the pile, and
fooner than lofe half his prize, he purfued the
above method till he had accomplifhed his ends.
The bags of flour, oatmeal, and peafe, though of
no ufe to him, he tore all to pieces, and {cattered
the contents about on the {fnow; but every bit
of animal food, confifting of beef, pork, bacon,

venifon,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

venifon, falt geefe, partridges, ac. to a confide-
rable amount, he carried away. ‘Thefe animals
are great enemies to the Beaver, but the manner
of life of the latter prevents them from falling
into their clutches fo frequently as many other
animals; they commit vaft depredations on the
foxes during the Summer, while the young ones
are {mall; their quick fcent directs them to their
dens, and if the entrance be too {mall, their
firength enables them to widen it, and go in and
kill the mother and all her cubs. In fact, they are
the moft deftruétive animals in this country*.

375

Orrers are pretty plentiful in the rivers to the The Otter,

North of Churchill, as far as latitude 62°; farther
North Ido not recollect to have feen any. In
Winter they generally frequent thofe parts of
rivers where there are falls-or rapids, which do
not freeze in the coldeft Winters; becaufe in
fuch fituations they are moft likely to find plenty
of fifh, and the open water gives them a free ad-
miflion to the fhore, where they fometimes go
to eat the fifh they have caught; but moft com.
monly fit on the ice, or get on a great ftone in the
river. They are frequently feen in the very
depth of Winter at a confiderable diftance from

any

* Mr. Graham fays they take their lodging in the clefts of rocks, or in
hollow trees. The former I acknowledge, but I believe that neither Mr.
Graham nor any of the Company’s fervants ever faw an inftance of the
latter. In faét, during all my travels in the interior parts of Hudfon’s
Bay, I never faw a hollow tree that was capable of affording fhelter to any
larger animal than martins, jackafhes, or wejacks; much lei the quique-
hatch or Bear, as fome have afierted.

376

A JOURNEY TO THE

any known open water, both in woods and on
open plains, as well as on the ice of large lakes;
but it is not known what has led them to fuch
places: perhaps merely for amufement, for they
are not known to killany game on the land dur-
ing that feafon. If purfued when among the
woods in Winter, (where the {now is always
light and deep,) they immediately dive, and make
confiderable way under it, but are eafily traced |
by the motion of the {now above them, and
foon overtaken.. The Indians kill numbers of
them with clubs, by tracing them in the fnow;
but fome of the old ones are fo fierce when c'o’e
purfued, that they turn and fly at their purfuer,
and their bite is fo fevere that itis much dreaded
by the Indians. Befides this method of killing
them, the Indians have another, which is equally
fuccefsful; namely, by concealing themfelves
within a reafonable gun-fhot of the Otters ufual
landing-places, and waiting their coming out of
the water. ‘This method is more generally prac-
tifedin moon-light nights. They alfo fhoot many
of them as they are fporting in the water, and
{ome few are caught in traps.

The Otters in this, as well as every other part
of the bay, vary in fize and colour, according to

_ age and feafon. In Summer, when the hair is very
fhort, they are almoft black, but as the Winter

advances, they turntoa beautiful dark auburn,

.except a {mall fpot under the chin, which is of a

filver gray. This colour they retain all the Win-
ter 5

NORTHERN OCEAN.

r; but late in the Spring (though long before
they fhed their coat) they turn toa dull rufty
brown ; fo that a perfon who is acquainted with
thofe changes can tell to a great nicety, by look-
ing at the fkins, (when offered for fale,) the very
time they were killed, and pay for them according
to their value. The number of their young is
various, from three to five or fix. They unite
in copulation the fame as a dog, and fo do every
other animal that has a bone in the penis. I will
here enumerate all of that defcription that I
know of in thofe parts, viz. bears of all forts,
wolves, wolvereens, foxes, martins, otters we-
jacks, jackafhes, fkunks, and ermines*.

377

JacxasH. This animal is certainly no other The ¢ Jack:

than the lefler Otter of Canada, as its colour,
fize, and manner of life entirely correfpond with
the defcription of that animal in Mr. Pennant’s
Arctic Zoology. They, like the larger Otter,
are frequently found in Winter feveral miles from
any water, and are often caught in traps built for
martins. ‘They are fuppofed to prey on mice and
partridges, the fame as the martin; but when by

the fide of rivers or creeks, they generally feed on

fifh. They vary fo much in fize and colour,
that it was very eafy for Mr. Pennant to have
miftaken the {pecimen fent home for another ani-
mal. They are the eafieft to tame and domefti-

cate

* The Otter is very fond of play; and one of their favourite paftimes
is, to get on a high ridge of fnow, bend their fore-feet backward, and flide
down the fide of it, fometimes to the diftance of twenty yards,

378 A JOURNEY TO THE

cate of any animal I know, except a large fpecies
of field-mice, called the Hair-tailed Moufe; forin |
avery fhort time they are fo fond, that it is {carce- |
ly poflible to keep them from climbing up one’s _
legs and body, and they never feel themfelves
happier than when fitting on the fhoulder ; but
when angry, or frightened, (like the fkunk,) they
emit a very difagreeable fmell. They fleep very
much in the day, but prowl about and feed in the
night; they are very fierce when at their meals,
_ not fuffering thofe to whom they are moft attach-—
ed to take it from them. I have kept feveral of
them, but their over-fondnefs made them trou-
blefome, as they were always in the way; and
their fo frequently emitting a difagreeable fmell,
rendered them quite difgufting.
thewe- Thoughthe Weyack* and Skunk are never
jack, an¢ found in the Northern Indian country, yet I can: |
not help obferving that the fcetid {mell of the |
latter has not been much exaggerated by any |
Author. When I was at Cumberland Houfe, |
in the Fall of one. thoufand feven hundred and |
feventy-four, fome Indians that were tenting on —

the |

* Mr. Graham aflerts that this animal frequents the banks of creeks, |
and feeds on fifh; but thefe are by no means their ufual haunts. I have, —
however, no doubt, but when they find fifh on the land, that they may |
eat it, like other carnivorous animals; but they are as fhy of taking the
water as a domeftic cat. They climb trees, and catch partridges, mice, |
and rabbits, with as much eafe asa martin, They are eafily tamed and |
domefticated, are very fond of tea-leaves, have.a pleafant mufky {mell, and
are very playful.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

the plantation killed two of thofe animals, and
made a feaft of them; when the fpot where they
were finged and gutted was fo impregnated with
that naufeous {mell which they emit, that after a
whole Winter had elapfed, and the {now had
thawed away in the Spring, the {mell was ftill in-
tolerable. Iam told, however, that the flefh is
by no means tainted with the fmell, if care be
taken in gutting, and taking out the bag that
contains this furprifing efluvia, and which they
have the power of emitting at pleafure; but I
rather doubt their being capable of ejecting
their urine fo far as is reported; Ido not think
it is their urine which contains that peftilential
effluvia, for if that was the cafe, all the coun-
try where they frequent would be fo fcented with
it, that neither man nor beaft could live there
with any degree of comfort.

379

The Common Pine Martin is found in moft The Pine

parts of this country, and though very fcarce in
what is abfolutely called the Northern Indian
territory, yet by the Indians ftrolling toward the
borders of the Southern Indian country, are kill-
ed in great numbers, and annually traded for at
Churchill Factory.

Martin.

The Ermine, or Srotz, is common in thofe The Er.

ground, and open plains or marfhes, than in the
woods ; probably owing to the mice being more
numerous in the former fituations than in the

latter.

mine, tely

parts, but generally more plentiful on the barren stote.

380

The Mufk
Rat.

A*JOURNEY TO THE

latter. In Summer they are of a tawney brown,

but in Winter of a delicate white all over, ex- |
cept the tip of the tail, which is of a glofly black, |

They are, for their fize, the ftrongeft and moft
courageous animal I: know: as they not. only
kill partridges, but even attack rabbits with great
fuccefs. They fometimes take up their abode in

the out-offices and provifion-fheds belonging to

the Factories ; and though they commit fome de-

predations, make ample amends by killing great
numbers of mice, which are very numerous and
deftructive at moft of the fettlements in the Bay.
I have taken much pains to tame and dometticate

this beautiful animal, but never could fucceed ;

for the longer I kept it the more reftlefs and im-

patient it became.

Animals with Cutting Teeth.

The Musk Rat, or MusquasH; or, as Natura-
lifts call it, the Musk Braver; is common in
thofe parts; generally frequenting ponds and
deep fwamps that do not freeze dry in Winter.
The manner of life of this fpecies of animals is
peculiar, and refembles that of the Beaver, as”
they are in fome refpects provident, and build
houfes to fhelter themfelves from the inclemency
of the cold in Winter; but inftead of making
thofe houfes on the banks of ponds or fwamps,
like the Beaver, they generally build them on the

ice

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ice as foon as it is fkinned over, and at a confide-
rable diftance from the fhore ; always taking care
to keep a hole open in the ice to admit them to
dive for their food, which chiefly confifts of the
roots of grafs: inthe Southern parts of the coun-
try they feed much on a well-known root, call Ca-

lamus Aromaticus. Vhe materials made ufe of in’

building their houfes are mud and grafs, which
they fetch up from the bottom. It fometimes
happens in very cold Winters, that the holes in
their houfes freeze over, in fpite of all their efforts
to keep them open. When that is the cafe, and
they have no provifions left in the houfe, the
ftrongeit preys on the weakeft, till by degrees
only one is left out of a whole lodge. 1 have
feen feveral inftances fuflicient to confirm the
truth of this afflertion; for when their houfes
were broke open, the fkeletons of feven or eight
have been found, and only one entire animal.
Though they occafionally eat fifth and other ani-
mal food, yet in general they feed very clean, and
when fat are good eating, particularly when nice-
ly finged, f{calded, and boiled. They are eafily
tamed, and foon grow fond; are very cleanly
and playful, and fmell exceedingly pleafant of
mufk; but their refemblance to a Rat is fo great
that few are partial tothem. Indeed the only
difference between them and a common Rat, ex-
clufive of their fuperior fize, is, that their hind-
feet are large and webbed, and the tail, inftead of
being round, is flat and fcaly.

Though

382

not always the cafe; for in the Southern parts of ©

The Porcu-
pine.

A JOURNEY TO THE .
Though I have before faid, that the Mufk Bea. i
ver generally build their houfes on the ice, it is” ®

the country, particularly about Cumberland 9
Houle, I have feen, in fome of the deep f{wamps
that were over-run with rufhes and long grafs, a
many {mall iflands that have been raifed by the”
induftry of thofe animals; on the tops of which 7
they had built their houfes, like the beaver, fome
of which were very large. The tops of thofe
hou(es are favourite breeding places for the geefe,
which bring forth their young brood there, with.
out the fear of being molefted by foxes, or any ©
other deftructive animal, except the Eagle. F

~Poxcupines are fo fearce to the North of "i

feen more than ie during almoft three years refi- o
dence among the Northern Indians. Mr. Pen- —
nant obferves in his Arctic Zoology, that they
always have two at atime; one brought forth —
alive and the other ftill-born*; but I never faw
an initance of this kind, though in different parts

of the country I have feen them killed in all

* This information was givén to Mr. Pennant from the authority of Mr,
Graham; but the before-mentioned account of fecing them killed in all.
ftages of pregnancy, when no fymptoms of that kind appeared, will 7
hope, be {nficient to clear up that miftake.

NORTHERN OCEAN. 383

great requeft among the women; who make
them into a variety of ornaments, fuch as fhot-
bags, belts, garters, bracelets, &c. Their mode
| of copulation is fingular, for their quills will not
permit them to perform that office in the ufual
mode, like other quadrupeds. ‘To remedy this in-
| convenience, they fometimes lie on their fides, and
| meet in that manner; but the ufual mode is for
| the male to lie on his back, and the female to
| walk over him, (beginning at his head,) till the
parts of generation come in contact. They are
the moft forlorn animal I know; for in thofe
parts of Hudfon’s Bay where they are moft nu-
| merous, it is not common to fee more than oné
|in a place. They are fo remarkably flow and
| ftupid, that our Indians going with packets from
| Fort to Fort often fee them in the trees, but not
| having occafion for them at that time, leave them
| till their return; and fhould their abfence be a
week or ten days, they are fure to find them
within a mile of the place where they had feen
them before.

Foxes of various colours are not fcarce in thofe Foxes of
parts; but the natives living fuch a wandering lous. =
life, feldom kill many. It is rather ftrange that
no other fpecies of Fox, except the white, are
found at any diftance from the woods on the
, barren ground; for fo long as the trade has been
) eftablifhed with the Efquimaus to the North of
Churchill, I do not recollect that Foxes of any
| other colour than white were ever received from
| them. :

The

384

Varying
Hares,
a

A JOURNEY TO THE

The Varyinc Hares are numerous to the
North of Churchill River, and extend as far as —
latitude 72°, probably farther. They delight
moft in rocky and ftony places, near the borders
of woods; though many of them brave the cold-
eft Winters on entire barren ground. In Sum-
mer they are nearly the colour of our Englifh |
wild rabbit; but in Winter aflume a moft deli-
cate white all over, except the tips of the ears,
which are black. They are, when full grown
and in good condition, very large, many of them
weighing fourteen or fifteen pounds ; and if not
too old, are good eating. In Winter they feed
on long rye-grafs and the tops of dwarf willows,
but in Summer eat berries, and different forts of
fmall herbage. ‘They are frequently killed on the
South-fide of Churchill River, and feveral have
been known to breed near the fettlement at that
place. They muft multiply very faft, for when
we evacuated Prince of Wales’s Fort in one thou-.
fand feven hundred and eighty-two, it was rare
to fee one of them within twenty or thirty miles
of that place; but at our return, in one thoufand
feven hundred and eighty-three, we found them
in fach numbers, that it was common for one
man to kill two or three in a day within half a
mile of the new fettlement. But partly perhaps, —
from fo many being killed, and partly, from the
furvivors being fo frequently diflurbed, they
have {hifted’ their fituation, and are at prefent as

fcarce near the fettlement as evcr. The Northern

Indians

NORTHERN OCEAN. 385

‘Indians purfue a fingular method of fhooting
thofe Hares; finding by long experience that

thefe animals will not bear a dire& approach,
when the Indians. fee a hare fitting, they walk
round it in circles, always drawing nearer at
every revolution, till by degrees they get within

_gun-fhot. The middle of the day, if it be clear
weather, is the beft time to kill them in this man.
ner; for before and after noon, the Sun’s alti-

tude being fo fmall, makes a man’s fhadow fo
long on the fnow, as to frighten the Hare before
he can approach near enough to kill it. The fame
may be faid of deer when on open plains, who
are frequently more frightened at.the long fhadow
than at the man himfelf.

‘The AMERICAN Hares, or, as they are called 17°47"),
in Hudfon’s Bay, Raszirs, are not plentiful in
the Eaftern parts of the Northern Indian country,
not even in thofe parts that are fituated among
the woods; but to the Weftward, bordering on
the Southern Indian country, they are in fome

_ places pretty numerous, though by no means .
equal to what has been reported of them at York
Fort, and fome other fettlementsin the Bay.

The furr of thofe animals, when killed in the

_ beft part of the feafon, was for many years en-
_tirely negleted by the furriers; for fome time

pait the Company have ordered as many of their
_ fkins to be fent home as can be procured; they
|. are but of {mall value.

The fichh of thofe Hares is generally more

cc efteemed

386 A JOURNEY TO THE

efteemed than that of the former. They are in |
feafon all the Winter; and though they general-
ly feed on the brufh of pine and fir. during that |
feafon, yet many of the Northern Indians eat the |
contents of the ftomach. They are feldom fought |
after in Summer, as in that feafon they are not |
efteemed good eating; but as the Fall advances |
they are, by feeding on berries, &c. moft excel. |
lent. In Spring they fhed their Winter coat, and
during the Summer are nearly the colour of the —
Englith wild rabbit, but as the Winter advances
they become nearly white. In thick weather they |
are eafily fhot with the gun; but the moft ufual
method of killing them is by fnares, fet nearly in
the manner defcribed by Dragge in the Firft Vo- |
lume of his North Weft Paflage. |
TheCom- The Common Squirrexs are plentiful in the |
va 2" woody parts of this country, and are caught by
the natives in confiderable numbers with fnares,
while the boys kill many of them with blunt-
headed arrows. The method of fnaring them is |
rather curious, though very fimple, as it confifts
of nothing more than fetting a number of fnares §}
all round the body of the tree in which they are’)
feen, and arranging them in fuch a manner that}
it is fcarcely poffible for the fquirrels to defcend! |
without being entangled in one of them. ‘This’

fmali, and feldom fat, yet they are good eating.

The beauty and delicacy of this animal induced’

me to attempt taming and domefticating fome of |
| them,

|

NORTHERN OCEAN. 387

them, but without fuccefs; for though feveral of
them were fo familiar as to take any thing out
of my hand, and fit on the table where I was
writing, and play with the pens, &’c. yet they
never would bear to be handled, and were very
mifchievous; gnawing the chair-bottoms, win-
dow-curtains, fafhes, &c. to pieces. They are an
article of trade in the Company’s ftandard, but
the greateft part of their fkins, being killed in
Summer, are of very little value.

The Grounb SquiIRRELs are never found in TheGround
the woody parts of North America, but are very sare
plentiful on the barren ground, to the North of
Churchill River, as far as the latitude 71°, and
probably much farther. In fize they are equal to
the American Grey Squirrel, though more beau-
tiful in colour. They generally burrow among
the rocks and under great ftones, but fometimes
on the fides of fandy ridges; and are fo provi-
dent in laying up a Winter’s ftock during the
Summer, that they are feldom feen on the furface
of the fnow in Winter. They generally feed on
the tufts of grafs, the tender tops of dwarf wil-
lows, 5’c. and are for the moft part exceedingly
fat, and good eating. They are eafily tamed,
and foon grow fond; by degrees they will bear
handling as well as a cat; are exceeding cleanly,
very playful, and by no means fo reftlefs and im-
Borst of confinement as the Common Squirrel.

_ Mice are in great plenty and variety in all Mice of ves
\ ia of Hudfon’s Bay; the marfhes being inha- Heo
Cc 2 bited

. fact, they are fo fmall, that at firft fight they only)

A JOURNEY TO THE

bited by one fpecies, and the dry ridges by ano- |
ther. The Shrew Moufe is frequently found in |
Beaver houfes during Winter, where they not on- q
ly find a warm habitation, but alfo pick upa |
comfortable livelihood from the fcraps left by the |
Beaver. Moft of the other fpecies build or make |
nefts of dry grafs, of fuch a fize and thicknefs, —
that when covered with fnow, they muft be fuf- |
ficiently warm, ‘They all feed on grafs in gene. |
ral, but will alfo eat animal food- when they can |
get it. The Hair-tailed Moule is the largeft in
the Northern parts of the Bay, being little inferi-
or in fizetoacommonrat. They always burrow
under ftones, on dry ridges; are very inoffenfive,
and fo eafily tamed, that if taken when full-grown, |
fome of them will in a day or two be perfeétly |
reconciled, and are fo fond of being handled,

your bofom. In Summer they are grey, and in
Winter change to white, but are by no means fo)
beautiful asa white ermine. At that feafon they!
are infefted with multitudes of {mall lice, not aj
fixth part fo large as the mites in a cheefe; in)

appear like reddifh-brown duit, but on clofer exs
amination are all perceived in motion. In one
large and beautiful animal of this kind, caught i
in the depth of Winter, I found thofe little ver-
min fo numerous about it, that almoft every hair |!
was covered with them as thick as ropes with
onions, and when they approached near the ends
of

NORTHERN OCEAN.

‘of the hair they may be faid to change the moufe
from white to a faint brown. Atthat time I had
an excellent microfcope, and endeavoured to ex-
amine them, and to afcertain their form, but the
weather was fo exceedingly cold, that the glaffes
became damp with the moifture of my breath be-
fore i could get a fingle fight. The hind-feet of
thefe Mice are exactly like thofe of a Bear, and the
fore-feet are armed witha horny fubftance, (that
I never faw in any other fpecies of the Moufe,)
which is wonderfully adapted for {craping away
the ground where they wifh to take up their
abode. ‘hey are plentiful on fome of the ftony
ridges near Churchill Factory, but never approach
the houfe, or any of the out-oflices. From ap-
pearances they are very local, and feldom ftray
far from their habitations even in fummer, and in
Winter they are feldom feen on the furface of the
fnow; a great proof of their being provident in
Summer to lay by a ftock for that feafon.

Pinnated Quadrupeds.

With refpect to the Pinnated Quadrupeds with
fin-like feet, there are but few fpecies in Hud-
fon’s Bay. ‘The Walrus, or Sea-Horfe, and Seals,
are the only ones that I know.

389

’ The Watrus are numerous about Merry and The wai.

Jones’s Iflands, but more fo on a {mall ifland call-*

ed Sea-Horfe Ifland, that lies in the fair way go-
ing

A JOURNEY TO THE

ing to Whale Cove. In July one thoufand feven
hundred and fixty-feven, when on my voyage ta
the North of Churchill River, in paffing Sea- |
Horfe Ifland, we faw fuch numbers of thofe ani- —
mals lying on the fhore, that when fome fwivel —
guns loaded with ball were fired among them, the
whole beach feemed to be in motion. The great-
eft part of them pluagedinto the water, and many
of them fwam round the veffel within mufket-
fhot. Every one on board exerted their fkill in
killing them, but it was attended with fo little
fuccefs, that the few which were killed funk to
the bottom, and thofe which were mortally.
wounded, made off out of our reach.

With what propriety thofe animals are called:
Horfes, I cannot fee; for there is not the leaft
refemblance in any one part. ‘Their bodies, fins,
&yc. are exactly like thofe of an enormous Seal,
and the head is not very unlike that animal, ex.
cept that the nofe ismuch broader, to give room |
for the two large tufks that proje@& from the up-. |
per jaw. Thofe tufks, and their red fparkling
eyes, make them have.a very fierce and formida- |
ble appearance. |

They, are generally found in confiderablenum- |
bers, which indicate their love of fociety; and; |
their affection for each other is very apparent, as. |
they always flock round thofe that are wounded, |
and when they fink, accompany them to-the bot-
tom, but foon rife to the furface, and make a
hideous roaring, and of ajl amphibious animals,

they

NORTHERN OCEAN.

they are at times the leaft fenfible of danger from
man that I know.

They often attack {mall boats merely through
wantonnefs, and not only put the people in great
confufion, but fubject them to great danger ;
for they always aim at ftaving the boat with their
tufks, or endeavour to get in, but are never
known to hurt the people. In the year one
thoufand feven hundred and fixty-fix fome of the
floop’s crew, who annually fail to the North to
trade with the Efquimaux, were attacked by a
great number of thofe animals; and notwith-
ftanding their utmoft endeavours to keep them
off, one more daring than the reft, though a {mall
one, got in over the ftern, and after fitting and
looking at the people fome time, he again plung-
ed into the water to his companions. At that
inftant another, of an enormous fize, was getting
in-over the bow; and every other means proving

ineffectual to prevent fuch an unwelcome vifit,.

the bowman took up a gun, loaded with goofe
fhot, put the muzzle into the Horfe’s mouth, and
{hot him dead; he immediately funk, and was
followed by all his companions. The people then
made the beft of their way to the veflel, and juft
arrived before the Sea-Horfes were ready to
make their fecond attack, which in all probability
might have been worfethan the firft, as they feem-
ed much enraged at the lofs of their companion.

Thofe animals are of various fizes, according
to age and other circumftances; fome are not
larger

391

392

A JOURNEY TO THE

larger than an old Seal but there are thofe among’
them that are not lefs than two ton weight.

; The fkin and teeth are the moft valuable parts
to the natives; for the fat is hard and grifly, and’
the flefh coarfe, black, and cough. |

~-'Thofe animals are feldom found on the conti,
nent which borders on Hudfon's Bay, or far up,’
in bays, rivers, or inlets, but ufually frequent
fmall iflands, and fea-girt fhoals, at fome diftance _
from the main land; but as thofe places are fro-
zen over for many miles during Winter, it is
natural to think they keep at the edge of the wa-
ter among the driving ice during that feafon.
They are fuppofed ‘to feed chiefly on marine:
plants, and perhaps on fhell-fith, for oe excre-—
ment is exceedingly offenfive.

Sraxs of various fizes and colours are com--
mon in moft parts of Hudfon’s Bay, but moft nu-
merous tothe North. Some of thofe animals are
beautifully fpeckled, black and white; others are
of a dirty grey. The former are generally {mall,
but fome of the latter arrive at an amazing fize,
and their fkins are of great ufe to the Ef{quimaux ;_
as it is of them they cover their canoes, make all
their boot-legs and fhoes, befides many other parts
of their clothing. The Seal-fkins are alfo of
great ufeto thole people asa fubftitute for cafks,
to preferve oil, &'c. for Winter ufe; they are
alfo blown full of win d and dried, and ne ufed
as buoys on the whale-fifhery. The flefh and fat
of the Seal is alfo more efteemed by the Efqui--

| maux

NORTHERN OCEAN. 393

maux than thofe of any other marine animal, fal-
mon not excepted.

Befides thefe, the Szra-Unicorn is known to Sea Uni-
fr¢quent Hudfon’s Bay and Straits, but I never”
faw one of them. Their horns are frequently pur-
chafed from our friendly Efquimaux, who proba-
bly get them in the way of barter from thofe
tribes that refide more to the North; but I ne-
ver could be informed by the natives whether
their fkins are like thofe of the Whale, or hairy
like thofe of the Seal; I fuppofe the former.

Species of Fifh.

The Fifh that inhabit the falt water of Hudfon’s
Bay are but few:—the Black Whale, White
Whale, Salmon, and a {mall fifh called Kepling,
are the only fpecies of fea-fifh in thofe parts*.

The Brack WuAace is fometimes found as far Black
South as Churchill River, and I was prefent at the ie
killing of three there; but this was in the courfe
of twenty years. To the Northward, particular-

Jy near Marble Ifland, they are more plentiful ;
but notwithftanding the Company carried on a
fifhery

* Inthe Fall of the year 1768, a fine rock cod was drove on fhore in a
high gale of wind, and was eaten at the Governor’s table; Meffrs. William
Walesand Jofeph Dymond, who went out to obferve the tranfit of Venus
which happened on the 3d of June 1769, partook of it; but I never heard
of one being caught with a hook; nor ever faw an entire fifh of that de-
fcription in thole parts: their jaw-bones are, however, frequently found
on the fhores.,

394.

A JOURNEY TO. THE.

fifhery in that quarter, from the year one thou-
fand feven hundred and fixty-five till one thou-
fand feven hundred and feventy-two, they were
fo far from making it anfwer. their expectations,
that they funls upwards of twenty thoufand:
pounds; which is the lefs to be wondered:at,
when we confider the great inconveniencies and
expences they laboured under in fuch an under-
taking. For as it was impoflible to profecute it
from England, all the people employed on that
fervice were obliged to refide at their fettlement
all the year at extravagant wages, exclufive of
their maintenance. The harpooners had no lefs
than fifty pounds per annum ftanding wages, and
none of the crew lefs than from fifteen to twenty-
five pounds ; which, together with the Captains
falaries, wear and tear of their veffels, and other
contingent expences, made it appear on calculati-
on, that if there were a certainty of loading the
veflels every year, the Company could not clear
themfelves. On the contrary, during the feven
years they perfevered in that undertaking, only
four Black Whales were taken near Marble Ifland; |
and, except one, they were fo {mall, that they
would not have been deemed payable fifh in the
Greenland fervice*. But the Hudfon’s Bay Com-
pany, with a liberality that does honour to them,
though

*{ have heard that no Whale caught by our Greenland thips iscalled a
Pay-fith; that is, that no-emolument arifes to the harpoener: that ftrikes
it; unlefs the longeft: blade of the bone, ufually called, Whale-bone, mea--
fares fix feet; whereas-thofe killed in Hudfon’s Bay feldom meafured more’
than four feet and an half,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

though perfectly acquainted with the rules obferv-
edin the Greenland fervice, gave the fame pre-
mium for a fucking fifh, as for one of the greateft
magnitude.

Waite Wuates are very plentiful in thofe White
parts, particularly from Chefterfield’s Inlet to
York Fort, or Hay’s River, on the Weft fide of
the Bay; and from Cape Smith to Slude River
on the Eaft fide. On the Weft coaft they are ge-
nerally found in the greateft numbers at the
mouths of the principal rivers; fuch as Seal
River, Churchill, Port Nelfon, and Hay’s Rivers,
But the Eaft fide of the Bay not being fo welll
known, Whale River is the only part they are
known to frequent in very confiderable numbers.
Some years ago the Company had a fettlement at
this river, called Richmond Fort ; but all their en-
deavours to eftablifh a profitable fifhery here prov-
ed ineffectual, and the few Indians who reforted
to.it with furrs proving very inadequate to the
expences, the Company determined to evacuate
it. Accordingly, after keeping up this fettlement
for upward of twelve years, and finking many
thoufands of pounds, they ordered it to be burnt,
for the more eafily getting the {pikes and other
_iron-work. This was in the year one thoufand
feven hundred and fifty-eight.

At the old eftablithed Faétories on the Weft
fide of the Bay, the Company have been more
fuccefsful in the White Whale fithery, particular-
ly at Churchill, were fuch of the Company’s fer-
vants,as cannot be employed during that feafon

to

395

395:

Salmon.

Kepling.

A-JOURNEY TO THE

to more benefit for the Company, are fent on

that duty, and in fome fuccefsful years they fend — :

home from eight to thirteen tons of fine oil. To
encourage a fpirit of induitry among thofe em-
ployed on this fervice, the Company allows a gra.
tuity, not only to the harpooners, but to every
man that fails in the boats; and this gratuity is
fo ample as to infpire them with emulation, as
they well know that the more they kill, the great-
er will be their emolument.

SALMON are in fome feafons very numerous on
the North Weit fide of Hudfon’s Bay, particular-
ly at Knapp’s Bay and Whale Cove. At the lat- _
ter | once found them fo plentiful, that had we
been provided with a fufficient number of nets,
cafks, and falt, we might foon have loaded the
veflel with them. But this is feldom the cafe,
for in fome years they are fo fcarce, that it is
with difficulty a few meals of them can be pro-
cured during our ftay at thofe harbours. They
are in fome years fo plentiful near Churchill
River, that I have known upward of two hun-
dred fine fifh taken out of four fmall nets in one
tide within a quarter of a mile of the Fort; but
in other years they are fo fcarce, that barely that
number have been taken in upward of twenty
nets during the whole feafon, which generally
begins the latter end of June, and ends about
the middle or latter end of Auguft. 3

Befide the fifh already mentioned, Iknow of —

no other that inhabits the falt water except the

KEPLING,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Kepuine, which is a {mall fifh about the fize ofa
fmelt, but moft excellent eating. In fome years
they refort to the fhores near Churchill River in
fuch multitudes to fpawn, and fuch numbers of
them are left dry among the rocks, as at times to
be quite offenfive. In other feafons they are fo
{carce, that hardly a meal can be procured.

The fame remark may be made on almoft eve-
ry {pecies of game, which conftitutes the greatelt
part of the fare of the people refiding in thofe
parts, For inftance, in fome years, hundreds of
deer may eafily be killed within a mile of York
Fort; and in others, there is not one to be feen
within twenty or thirty miles. One day thou-
-fands and tens of thoufands of geefe are feen, but

the next they all raife flight, and go tothe North’

to breed. Salmon, as I have lately obferved, is
fo plentiful in fome years at Churchill River, that
it might be procured in any quantity; at others,
fo {carce asto be thought a great delicacy.

In fact, after twenty years refidence in this
country, I am perfuaded that whoever relies
much on the produce of the different feafons, will
frequently be deceived, and occafionally expofe
himfelf and men to great want.

To remedy this evil, it is moft prudent for thofe
in command to avail themfelves of plentiful fea-
fons, and cure a fufficient quantity of the leaft
perifhable food, particularly geefe.

Shell

397

398

Shell Fifth,

Frogs,

A JOURNEY TO THE

Shell Fifb.

Suri Fisu of a variety of kinds are alfo found
in fome parts of Hudfon’s Bay. Mufcles in par-
ticular are in great abundance on the rocky fhores
near Churchill River, and what is vulgarly called
the Periwincle are very plentiful on the rocks
which dry at low-water. Small Crabs and Star-
fith are frequently thrown on the fhore by the

furfin heavy gales of wind; and the empty fhells

of Wilks, fmall Scallops, Cockles, and many other
kinds, are to be found on the beaches in great
plenty. The fame may be faid of the interior
parts of the country, where the banks of the
lakes and rivers abound with empty fhells of va-
rious kinds; but the fifh themfelves have never
been difcovered by the natives.

Frogs, Grubs, and other Infetts.

Frocs of various colours are numerous in thofe
parts as far North as the latitude 61°. They al-
ways frequent the margins of lakes, ponds, rivers,
and {wamps: and as the Winter approaches, they
burrow under the mofs, at a confiderable diftance
from the water, where they remain in a frozen
ftate till the Spring. I have frequently feen

them

NORTHERN OCEAN. 399

them dug up with the mofs, (when pitching
tents in Winter,) frozen as hard as ice; in which
ftate the legs are as eafily broken off as a pipe-
ftem, without giving the leaft fenfation to the
animal; but by wrapping them up in warm
fkins, and expofing them to a flow fire, they foon
recover life, and the mutilated animal gains its
ufual activity; but if they are permitted to freeze
again, they are paft all recovery, and are never
more known to come-to life. The fame may be
faid of the various {pecies of Spiders and all the ¢ i40., ana
Grub kind, which are very numerous in thofe Ss.
parts. I have feen thoufands of them dug up
with the mofs, when we were pitching our tents
in the Winter ; all of which were invariably en-
clofed in a thick web, which Nature teaches them
to {pin on thofe occafions ; yet they were appa-
rently all frozen as hard as ice. ‘The Spiders, if
let fall from any height on a ‘hard fubftance,
would. rebound like a grey pea; and al! the Grub
kind are fo hard frozen as to be as eafily broken
as a piece of ice of the fame fize ; yet when ex-
pofed to a flow heat, even in the depth of Winter,
they will foon come to life, and in a fhort time
recover their ufual motions.

Birds.

The feathered creation that refort to thofe parts

in the different feafons are numerous, but fuch
as

400 A JOURNEY TO THE . |

as brave the fevere Winter are but few in num- |
ber, and fhall be particularly noticed in their”
proper places. ;
Eacues of feveral forts are found in the coun-
try bordering on Hudfon’s Bay during the Sum-
mer ; but none, except the common brown Fith-
ing Eagle, ever frequent the Northern parts.
They always make their appearance in thofe drea-
ry regions about the latter end of March or be-
ginning of April, and build their nefts in lofty
trees, in the crevices of inacceflible rocks near
the banks of rivers. They lay but two eggs,
(which are white,) and frequently bring but one
young. They generally feed on fith, which they
catch as they are fwimming near the furface; |
but they are very deftructive to the mufk rat and |
hares, as alfo to geefe and ducks, when in a moult- |
ing ftate, and frequently kill young beaver. |
Their nefts are very large, frequently fix feet in
diameter ; and before their young can fly, are fo |
provident, that the Indians frequently take a moft J
excellent meal of fifh, flefh, and fowl from their
larder. Though they bring forth their young
fo early as the latter end of May, or the begin- |
ning of June, yet they never fly till September ; |
a little after which they migrate to the South. |
ward. They are the moft ravenous of any bird
I know; for when kept in confinement or in a
tame ftate as it may be called, I have known two
of them eat more’than a bufhel of fifh in a day.
‘They are never known to breed on the barren”
grounds |

Eagles.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

grounds to the North of Churchill River, though
many of the lakes and rivers in thofe parts
abound with variety of fifh. This is probably
owing to the want of trees or high rocks to build
in. The Northern Indians are very partial to
the quill-feathers of the Eagle, as well as to thofe
of the hawk, to wing or plume their arrows
with, out of a fuperftitious notion that they have
a, greater effect than if winged with the feathers
of geefe, cranes, crows, or other birds, that in fa@
would do equally as well. The flefh of the Eagle
is ufually eaten by moft of the Indians, but is
always black, hard, and fifhy; even the young
ones, when ina callow ftate, though the flefh is de-
licate white, are fo rank asto render them very
unpleafant to fome perfons, except in times of
neceflity. ;

401,

Hawks of various fizes and plumage frequent Hawks of

the different parts of the country round Hudfon’s
Bay during Summer. Some of thofe Hawks are
fo large as to weigh three pounds, and others fo
{mall as not to exceed five or fix ounces. But
the weight of thofe, as well as every other fpe-
) cies of Birds, is no ftandard for the Naturalift to
) go by; for at different feafons, and when in
want of food, they are often fcarcely half the
weight they are when fat and in good order.
Notwithftanding the variety of Hawks that re-
fort to thofe parts in Summer, I know but one
fpecies that brave the intenfe cold of the long
Winters to the North of Churchill River; and

Dd that

variousfizes.

402 A JOURNEY TO THE

that is what Mr. Pennant calls the Sacre Falcon. |
They, like the other large fpecies of Hawks, prey 7
much on the white groufe or partridge, and alfo
on the American bare, ufually called here Rab-
bits. They are always found to frequent thofe
parts where partridges are plentiful, and are de-
tefted by the fport({men, as they generally drive
all the game off the ground near their tents ;
but, in return, they often drive thither frefh.
flocks of fome hundreds. Notwithftanding this,
they fo frequently baulk thofe who are employed
on the hunting fervice, that the Governors ge-
nerally give a reward of a quart of brandy for
each of their heads. ‘Their flefh is always eaten
by the Indians, and fometimes by the Englifh;
but it is always black, hard, and. tough, and

fometimes has a bitter tafte. ty
The Indians are fond of taming thofe birds,
and frequently keep them the whole Summer ;
but as the Winter approaches they generally take
flight, and provide for themfelves. When at
Cumberland Houfe I had one of them, of which |
my people were remarkably fond; and as it ne- |
ver wanted for food, would in all probability. |
have remained with us all the Winter, hadit not 9
been killed by an Indian who did not know it | |
to be tame. | |
White or The beautiful fpecies of Wurrz or Snowy OwL |
SnowyOvl: +. Common in all parts of Hudfon’s Bay, as far |
North as the Copper-mine River. Thefe birds, |
when flying or fitting, appear very large, but when |
| | killed, |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

killed, feldom weigh more than three and a half,
or four pounds, and fometimes fcarcely half that
weight. They generaliy feed on mice and pars
tridges, and are at times known to kill rabbits.
They are, like the hawk, very troublefome to the
fportf{men ; and, contrary to any other bird that
iknow, have a great propenfity to follow the
report of a gun, and frequently follow the hun-
ters (as they are ufually called in Hudfon’s Bay)
the whole day. On thofe occafions they ufually
perch on high trees, and watch till a bird is killed,
when they fkim down and carry it off before the
hunter can get near it; but inreturn, the hunters,
when they fee them on the watch, frequently de-
coy them within gun-fhot, by throwing up a
dead bird, which the Ow] feldom refufes to accept;
but the fportfinan being fully provided for this
vifit, and on his guard, generally thoots them
before they can carry off the partridge. They
are, however, fo great a hindrance to thofe em-
ployed on the hunting fervice, that the fame pre-
mium is given for one of their heads as for that
of a hawk. |
In Winter they are frequently very fat, their
flefh delicately white, and generally efteemed
good eating, both by Englifh and Indians. Thofe
Owls always make their nefts on the ground, ge-
nerally lay from three to four eggs, but feldom
hatch more than two; and in the extreme North
the young ones do not fly till September. They
never migrate, but brave the coldeft Winters,
| Ddz even

403

404

Grey or
Mottled
Owl.

Cob-a-dee-
¢ooch.

A JOURNEY TO THE

even on the barren ground, far remote from any
woods ; and in thofe fituations perch on high q
rocks and ftones, and watch for their prey.

The {pecies of Grey or MottLep Own are by
no means fo numerous as the former, are fome-
thing inferior in fize, and always frequent the
woods. ‘They never go in fearch of their prey in
the day-time, but perch on the tops of lofty pines,

and are eafily approached and fhot. Their food

is generally known to be mice and {mall birds,
yet their fefh is delicately ‘white, and nearly as .
good as a barn-door fowl; of courfe it is much
efteemed both by the Englifh and Indians. ‘This
fpecies of Owl is called by the Southern Indians
Ho-ho, and the former Wap.-a-kee-thow.

Befides thofe two {pecies of Owls, there is ano-
ther that remains in Hudfon’s Bay all the year, -
and is called by the Indians CoB-a-pEE-coocH.
It is fo far inferior in fize to the two former,
that it feldom weighs half a pound ; is of a mot- |
tled brown, the feathers long, and of a moft de-
licate foft and filky quality. In general this f{pe-
cies feed on mice, and birds they find dead; and
are fo impudent at times, that they light ona pare.
tridge when killed by the hunter, but not being
able to carry it off, are often obliged to relinquifh
the prize. Like the White Owl, at times though
but feldom, they follow the report of a gun, and
by fo frequently fkimming round the fportfmen,
frighten the game nearly as much as the hawk,
They feldom go far from the woods, build in trees,

and

NORTHERN OCEAN. 405

and lay from two to four eggs. They are never
fat, and their flefh is eaten only by the Indians.
Ravens of a moft beautiful glofly black, richly Ravens.

tinged with purple and violet colour, are the
conftant inhabitants of Hud{fon’s Bay; but are fo
far inferior in fize to the Englifh Raven, that
they are ufually called Crows. ‘They build their
nefts in lofty pine.trees, and generally lay four
fpeckled eges; they bring forth their young fo
early as the latter end of May, or the beginning
of June. In Summer many of them frequent the
barren grounds, feveral hundred miles from any
woods; probably invited there by the multitudes
of deer and mufk-oxen that are killed by the
Northern Indians during that feafon, merely for
their kins, and who leave their flefh to rot, or
be devoured by beafts or birds of prey. At thofe
times they are very fat, and the flefh of the young
ones iis delicately white, and good eating. But
in ‘Winter they are, through neceflity, obliged to
feed on a black mofs that grows on the pine-trees,
alfo on deer’s dung, and excrements of other
animals. It istrue, they kill fome mice, which
they find in the furface of the fnow, and catch ma-
ny wounded partridges and hares; in fome parts
of the country they are a great nuifance to the
hunter, by eating the game that is either caught
in {nares or traps. “With all this affiftance, they
are in general fo poor during the fevere cold in
Winter, as to excite wonder how they poflibly
can exilt.

Their

406

Cinereous
Crow.

A JOURNEY TO THE

Their faculty of fcent muft be very acute; for
in the coldeft days in Winter, when every kind
of efiluvia is almoft inftantaneoufly deftroyed by
the froft, | have frequently known buffaloes and
other beafts killed where not one of thofe birds
were feen; but in a few hours fcores of them
would gather about the fpot to pick up the
dung, blood, and other offal. An unarmed man
may approach them very near when feeding, but
they are fhy of thofe that have a gun ; a great
proof that they fmell the gunpowder. They
are, however, frequently fhot by guns fet for
foxes; and fometimes caught in traps built for
martins. Though, on the whole, they may be
called a fhy bird, yet their necefflities in Winter
are fo great, that, like the White Owl, they fre-
quently follow the report of a gun, keep prudent-
ly at adiftance from the fportf{man, and frequent-
ly carry off many wounded birds. Their quills
make moft excellent pens for drawing, or for la-
dies to write with.

The C1inereous Crow, or, as it is called by the
Southern Indians, Whifk-e-jonifh, by the Englifh

Whifkey-jack, and by the Northern Indians Gee-.

za, but as fome pronounce it, and that with more
propriety, Jee-za, though clafled among the
Crows, is in reality fo fmall, as feldom to weigh
three ounces; the plumage grey, the feathers very
long, foft, and filky, and.in general entirely un-
webbed, and in fome parts much refembles hair.
This bird is very familiar, and fond of frequent-

ing

ee res

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ing habitations, either houfes or tents; and fo
much given to pilfering, that no kind of provi-
fions it can come at, either freth or falt, is fafe
from its depredation. It is fo bold as to come into
tents, and fit on the edge of the kettle when
hanging over the fire, and fleal victuals out of
thedifhes. Itis very troublefome to the hunters,
both Englifh and Indian, frequently following
them a whole day ; it will perch on a tree while
the hunter is baiting his martin-traps, and as
{oon as his back is turned go and eat the baits.
It is a kind of mock-bird, and of courfe has a va-
riety of notes; it is ealily tamed, but never lives
long in confinement. It is well known to bea
provident bird, laying up great quantities of ber-
ries in Summer fora Winter ftock; but its natu-

4°7

ral propenfity to pilfer at all feafons makes it —

much detefted both by the Englith and Indians.
It builds its neft in trees, exactly like that of the
blackbird and thrufh; Jays four blue eggs, but
feldom brings more than three young ones.

I know of only one fort of Woop-PECKER that
frequents the remote Northern parts of Hudfon’s
Bay ; and this is diftinguifhed by Mr. Pennant
by the name of the Golden Winged Bird; but
to the South Weft that beautiful fpecies of Wood-
pecker with a fcarlet crown is very frequent.
The manner of life of this fpecies is nearly alike,
always building their nefts in holes in trees, and

feeding on worms and infects. They generally
have

Wood-

eckere

408

Groufe,

TheRuffed
Groufe.

A JOURNEY TO THE

have from four to fix young at a time. They
are faid to be very deftructive to fruit-trees that
are raifed in gardens in the more Southern parts
of America; but the want of thofe luxuries in
Hudfon’s Bay renders them very harmlefs and |

anoffenfive birds. ‘The red feathers of the larger

fort, which frequent the interior and Southern
parts of the Bay, are much valued by fome of

the Indians, who ornament their pipe-ftems with
them, and at times ufe them as ornaments to their

children’s clothing. Neither of the two fpecies
here mentioned ever migrate, but are conftant

inhabitants of the different climates in which
‘they are found.

There are feveral fpecies of Grouse in the dif
ferent parts of Hudfon’s Bay; but two of the
largeft, and one of them the moft beautiful, ne-
ver reach fo far North as the latitude 59°: but as
I have feen them in great plenty near Cumberland
Houle, I fhall take the liberty to defcribe them.

The Rurrep Grouse. Thisis the moft beau-
tiful of all that are claffed under that name.
They are of a delicate brown, prettily variegated
with black and white: tail large and long, like
that of a hawk, which is ufually of an orange-
colour, beautifully barred with black, chocolate,
and white; and the tail is frequently expanded
like a fan. To add to their beauty, they havea
ruff of glofly black feathers, richly tinged with
purple round the neck, which they can erect at
pleafure: this they frequently do, but more par-

| ticularly

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ticularly fo when they fpread their long ‘tail,
which gives them a noble appearance. In fize
they exceed a partridge, but are inferior toa
pheafant. In Winter they are ufvally found
perched on the branches of tlie pine-trees ; and
in that feafon are fo tame as-to be eafily approach-
ed, and of courfe readily fhot.

They always make their nefis on the ground,
generally at the root of a tree, and lay to the
number of twelve or fourteen eggs. In fome of
the Southern parts of America feveral attempts
have been made to tame thofe beautiful birds, by
taking their eggs and hatching them under do-
meftic hens, but it was never crowned with fuc-
eefs ; for when but a few days oid, they always
make their efcape into the woods, where they
probably pick up a fubfiftence. ‘Their fleth is
delicately white and firm, and though they are
feldom fat, they are always good eating, and are
generally efteemed beft when larded and roafied,
or nicely boiled with a bit of bacon.

There is fomething very remarkable in thofe

birds, and I believe peculiar to themfelves, which
is that of clapping their wings with {uch a force,
that at half a mile diftance it refembles thunder.
Thave frequently heard them make that noite
near Cumberland Houfe in the month of May,
‘but it was always before Sun-rife, and a little
after Sun-fet. It is faid by Mr. Barton and Le
‘Hontan, that they never clap in this manner but
‘in the Spring and Pall, and I muft acknowledge

that

409

410

Sharp-tail-
ed Groufe,

A JOURNEY TO THE

that I never heard them in Winter, though 1
have killed many of them in that feafon. ‘The
Indians informed me they never make that noife
but when feeding, which is very probable; for
it is notorioufly known that all the fpecies of
Groufe feed very early in the mornings, and
late in the afternoons. This {pecies is called by
fome of the Indians bordering on Hudfon’s Bay,
Pus-pus-kee, and by others Pus-pus.-cue.
SHARP-TAILED Grouse, or as they are called
in Hudfon’s Bay, Pheafant. Thofe birds are al-
ways found in the Southern parts of the Bay, are
very plentiful in the interior parts of the coun-
try, and in fome Winters a few of them are fhot
at York Fort, but never reach fo far North as
Churchill. In colour they are not very unlike
that of the Fnglifh hen pheafant ; but the tail is
fhort and pointed, like that of the common
duck ; and there is no perceivable difference in
plumage between the male and female. When
full-grown, and in good condition, they frequent-
ly weigh two pounds, and though the flefh is
dark, yet it is juicy, and always efteemed good
eating, particularly when larded and roafted. In
Summer they feed on berries, and in Winter on
the tops of the dwarf birch, and the buds of the
poplar. Inthe Fall they are tolerably tame, but
in the fevere cold more fhy; frequently perch
on the tops of the higheft poplars, out of mode-
rate gun-fhot, and will not fuffer a near approach.

They fometimes, when difturbed in this fituati-
on,

\

NORTHERN OCEAN. AM

on, dive into the fnow; but the fportfman is
equally baulked in his expectations, as they force
their way fo faft under it as to raife flight many
yards diftant from the place they entered, and
very frequently in a different dire¢tion to that
from which the fportfman expects*. They, like
the other fpecies of groufe, make their nefts on
the ground, and lay from ten to thirteen eggs.
Like the Ruffed Groufe, they are not to be tam-
ed, as many trials have been made at York Fort,
but without fuccefs ; for though they never made
their efcape, yet they always died, probably for
the want of proper food; for the hens that
hatched them were equally fond of them, as they
could poflibly have been had they been the pro-
duce of their own eggs. This fpecies of Groufe
is called by the Southern Indians Aw-kis-cow.
The Woop Parrripnces have acquired that Wood Par-
name in Hudfon’s Bay from their always frente
quenting the forefts of pines and fir; and in
Winter feeding on the brufh of thofe trees,
though they are fondeft of the latter. This {pe-
cies of Groufe is inferior in fize and beauty tothe
Ruffed, yet may be called a handfome bird ; the
plumage being of a handfome brown, elegantly
fpotted with white and black. The tail is long,
and tipped with orange; and the legs are warmly
covered with fhort feathers, but the teet are nak-
ed. They are generally in the extreme with re-
{pect

* This Iaflert from my own experience when at Cumberland Houfe,

42

Willow
Partridge.

A JOURNEY TO THE

{pe& todhynels; formetimes not fuflering aman
to come within two gun-fhots, and at others fo
tame that the {portfman may kill five or fix out
of one tree without fhifting his ftation. They
are feen in fome years-in confiderable numbers
near York Fort. They arevery fcarce at Church-
ill, though numerous in the interior parts, parti-
cularly on the borders of the Athapufcow Indians
country, where I have feen my Indian com-
panions kill many of them with blunt-headed
arrows. In Winter their flefh is black, hard, and
bitter, probably owing to the refinous quality of
their food during that feafon.; but this isnot ob-'
ferved in the rabbits, though they feed exactly
in the fame manner in Winter: -on the contrary,
their flefh is efteemed more delicate than that of
the Englifh rabbit. The Southern Indians call-
this fpecies of Partridge, Miftick-a-pethow ; and
the Northern Indians.call it, Day.

The Wittow Partriness havea ftrong black
bill, with fcarlet eye-brows, very large and’beau-
tiful inthe male, but lefs.confpicuous‘in the fe-
male. In Summer they are brown, elegantly
barred and mottled with orange, white, and
black; and at that feafon the males are -very
proud. and handfome, ‘but ‘the females are lefs”
beautiful, being of one univerfal brown. <As‘the’
Fall advances they change ‘to a delicate white,
except fourteen black feathers‘in the tail, which
are alfo tipped with white; and their legs and
feet, quite down to the nails, are warmly covered

with

NORTHERN OCEAN,

with feathers. Inthe latter end of September
and beginning of October they gather in flocks
of fome hundreds, and proceed from. the open
plains and barren grounds, (where they ufually
breed,) to the woods and brufh-willows, where
they bord together in a ftate of fociety, till dif-
perfed by their common enemies, the hawks, or
hunters. hey are by far the moft numerous of
any of the groufe {pecies that are found in Hud-
fon’s Bay; and in fome places when. permitted to
remain undifturbed for a confiderable time, their
number is frequently fo great, as almoft to ex-
_ceed credibility. I fhall by no'means exceed truth,
if I affert that | have feen upward of four hun-
dred in one flock near Churchill River; but the
greateft number I ever faw was on the North tide
of Port Nelfon River, when returning with a pack-
et in March one thoufand feven hundred and
fixty-eight: at that time I faw thoufands flying
to the North, and the whole furface of the fnow
feemed to be in motion by thofe that were feed-
ing on the tops of the fhort willows. Sir Tho-
mas Button mentions, that when he wintered in
Port Nelfon River in one thoufand fix hundred
and twelve, his crew killed eighteen hundred
dozen of thofe birds, which I have no reafon to
doubt; and Mr. Jeremie, formerly Governor at
York Fort, when that place was in the poffeffion
of the French, and then called Fort Bourbon,
aflerts, that he and feventy-nine others eat no

lefs

4X3

414

A JOURNEY TO THE

lefs than ninety thoufand partridges and twenty-
five thoufand hares in the courfe of one Winter;
which, confidering the quantity of venifon,
geefe, ducks, tc. enumerated in his account,
that were killed that year, makes the number fo
great, that it is fcarcely poflible to conceive what
eighty men could do with them ; for on calcula-
tion, ninety thoufand partridges pete twenty-five
thoufand hares divided by eighty, amounts to no
lefs than one thoufand one hundred and twenty-
five partridges, and three hundred and twelve
hares per man. ‘his is by far too great a
quantity, particularly when it is confidered that
neither partridges nor hares are in feafon, or can
be procured in any numbers, more than feven

months in the year. Forty thoufand partridges -

and five thoufand hares would, I think, be much
nearer the truth, and will be found, on calculati-
on, to be ample provifion for eighty men for fe-
ven months, exclufive of any change. The
common weight of thofe birds is from eighteen
to twenty- -two ounces when firft killed; there
are fome few that are nearly that weptle when
fit for the {pit, but they are fo fcarce as by no
means to ferve as a flandard; and as they always
hord with the common fize, there is no room to
fufpe@ them of another fpecies. As all thofe
over-grown partridges are notorioufly known
to be males, it is more than probable that they
are imperfeét, and grow large and fat like capons;
and every one that has had an opportunity of

tafting

aie eds

NORTHERN OCEAN,

tafting thofe large partridges, will readily allow
that they excel the common fort as much in fla-
vour asthey doin fize. It is remarked in thofe
birds, as wellas the Rock Partridge, that they
are provided with additional clothing, as it may
be called ; for every feather, from the largeft to
the fimalleft, except the quills and tail, are all
double. ‘The under-feather is foft and downy,
fhooting from the fhaft of the larger; and is
wonderfully adapted to their fituation, as they not
only brave the coldeft Winters, but the fpecies
now under confideration always burrow under
the fnow at nights, and at day light come forth
to feed. In Winter they are always found to fre-
quent the banks of rivers and creeks, the fides of
lakes and ponds, and the plains which abound
with dwarf willows; for it is on the buds and
tops of that tree they always feed during the
Winter. in fummer they eat berries and {mall
herbage. Their food in Winter being fo dry
and harfh, makes it neceflary for them to {wal-
low a confiderable quantity of gravel to promote
digeftion ; but the great depth of {now renders
it very fcarce during that feafon. The Indians
having confidered this point, invented the me-
thod now in ufe among the Englifh, of catching
them in nets by means of that fimple allurement,
a heap of gravel. The nets for this purpofe are
from eight to twelve feet fquare, and are {ftretch-
ed in a frame of wood, and ufually fet on the ice
of rivers, creeks, ponds, and lakes, about one

hundred

41S

416

A JOURNEY TO THE

hundred yards from: the willows, but in fome
fituations not half that diftance. Under the cen-
terof the net a heap of {now is thrown up:to —_
the fize of one or two bufhels, and when welt
packed is covered with gravel. To fet the nets,
when thus prepared, requires. no other trouble
than lifting up one fide of the frame, and. fupport-
ing it with two {mail props, about four feet long:
a. line is faftened to thofe props, and the other
end: being conveyed'to the neighbouring willows,
is abways fo contrived that a man can get to it
without being feen by the birds under the net.
When every thing is thus prepared, the hunters:
have nothing to do but go into the adjacent wil-
lows and woods, and when they ftart game, en-
deavour to drive them into the net, which at
times is no hard tafk, as they frequently run be-
fore them like chickens; and fometimes require
no driving, for as foon as they fee the black heap
of gravel on the white fnow they fly ftraight to-
wards it. The hunter then goes to the end of
the line to watch their motions, and when he fees
there are as many about the gravel as the net can
cover, or as many as are likely to go under at
that time, with a fudden pull he hauls down the
fakes, and the net falls horizontally on the fhow,
and enclofes the greateft part of the birds that
are under it. The hunter then runs to the
net as foon as poffible, and kills all the birds by
biting them at the back of the head. He then fets .
up the net, takes away all the dead game, and

repeats

NORTHERN OCEAN.

repeats the operation as often as he pleafes, or
as long as the birds are in good humour. By
this fimple contrivance I have known upwards of
three hundred partridges caught in one morning
by three perfons; and a much greater number
might have been procured had it been thought
neceflary. Early in the morning, juft at break
of day, and early in the afternoon, is the beft time
for this fport. It is common to get from thirty
to feventy at one hawl; and in the Winter of
one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-fix, Mr.
Prince, then Mafter of a floop at Churchill River,
actually caught two hundred and four at two
hawls. They are by no means equally plentiful
every year; for in fome Winters I have known
them fo fcarce, that it was impoffible to catch
any in nets, and all that could be procured with
the gun would hardly afford one day’s allowance
per week to the men during the feafon; but in
the Winter one thoufand feven hundred and
eighty-five, they were fo plentiful near Churchill,
and {uch numbers were brought to the Factory,
that | gave upward of two thoufand tothe hogs.
In the latter end of March, or the beginning of
April, thofe birds begin to change, from white to
their beautiful Summer plumage, and the firft
brown feathers make their appearance on the
neck*, and by degrees fpread over the whole bo-

; Ee dy ;

* Mr. Dragge obferves, in his North Weft Paflage, that when the par-

tridges begin to change colour, the firft brown feathers appear in the rump;
but

Rock Par-
tridges,

A JOURNEY TO THE

dy; but their Summer drefs is feldom complete

‘till July. The feathers of thofe birds make excel-

lent beds, and as they are the perquifite of the
hunters, are ufually fold to the Captains and
Mates of the Companys’ fhips, at the eafy rate of
three pence per pound.

Rock Partripnces. This fpecies of Groufe
are in Winter of the fame colour as the former,
but inferior in fize; being in general not more
than two-thirds of the weight. They have a
black line from the bill to the eye, and differ in
nature and manner from the Willow Partridge.
They never frequent the woods or willows, but
brave the fevereft cold on the open plains. They
always feed on the buds and tops of the dwarf
birch, and after this repaft, generally fit on the
high ridges of fnow, with their heads to wind-
ward, ‘They are never caught in nets, like the
Willow Partridge; for when in want of gravel,
their bills are of fuch an amazing ftrength, that
they pick a fufficient quantity out of the rocks.
Befide, being fo much inferior in fize to the for-
mer fpecies, their flefh is by no means fo good,
being black, hard, and bitter. They are in gene-

ral,

but this is fo far from being’a general rule, that an experienced Hudfonian
muft fmile at the idea. That Mr, Dragge never faw an inftance of this
kind I will not fay, but when Nature deviates fo far from its ufual courfe,
it. is undoubtedly owing to fome accident; and nothing is more likely
than that the feathers of the bird Mr. Dragge had examined, had been
ftruck off by ahaw; and as the nfual feafon for changing their plumage
was near, the Summer feathers fupplied their place; for out of the many

“hundreds of thoufands that I have feen killed, | never faw or heard of a

fimilar inftance,

NORTHERN OCEAN,

ral, like the Wood Partridge, either exceeding
wild or very tame; and when in the latter hu-
mour, I have known one man kill one hundred
and twenty in a few hours; for as they ufually
keep in large flocks, the fportf{man can frequent-
ly kill fix or eight ata fhot. ‘Thefe, like the Wil-
low Partridge, change their plumage in Summer
to a beautiful {peckled brown; and at that feafon
are fo hardy, that, unlefs fhot in the head or vi-
tals, they will fly away with the greateft quantity
of fhot of any bird I know. ‘They difcover
great fondnefs for their young; for during the
time of incubation, they will frequently fuffer
themfelves to be taken by hand off their eggs*.
Pigeons of a {mall fize, not larger than a thrufh,
are in fome Summers found as far North as
Churchill River. The bill is of a flefh-colour,
legs red, and the greateft part of the plumage of
a light lilac or blufh. In the interior parts of the
country they fly in large flocks, and perch on the

Ee 2 poplar

* Befides the birds already mentioned, which form a conftant difh at our
tables in Hudfon’s Bay, during their refpective feafons, Mr. Jerome afferts,
that during the time he was Governor at York Fort, the buftard was com-
mon, But fince that Fort was delivered up to the Englifh at the peace of
Utrecht in 1713, none of the Company’s fervants have ever feen one of
thofe birds: nor does it appear by all the Journals now in the pofleffion
of the Huadfon’s Bay Company, that any fuch bird was ever feen in the
moft Southern parts of the Bay, much lefs at York Fort, which is in the
latitude 57° North; fo that a capital error, or a wilful defign to miflead,
mutt have taken place. Indeed, his account of the country immédiately
where he refided, and the produétions of it, are fo erroneonfly ftated as
to deferve nonotice. His colleague, Dele Potries, afferts the exiftence of
the buftard in-thofe parts, and with an equal regard to truth.

419

420 A JOURNEY TO THE

poplar trees in fuch numbers that I have feen
twelve of them killed at one fhot. They ufually
feed on poplar buds, and are good eating, though
feldom fat. They build their nefts in trees, the
fame as the Wood Pigeons do; never lay but
two eggs, and are very {carce near the fea-coaft in
the Northern parts of Hudfon’s Bay.

Sheen The Rep-sreasTeD THRUSHES, commonly call-

~ edin Hudfon’s Bay the Red Birds, but by fome

the Black Birds, on account of their note, and by
others the American Fieldfares ufually make their |
appearance at Churchill River about the middle
of May, build their nefts of mud, like the Englifh
Thrufh, and lay four beautiful blue eggs. They
have a very loud and pleafing note, which they
generally exercife moft in the mornings and
evenings, when perched on fome lofty tree near
their neft; but when the young can fly they are
filent, and migrate to the South early in the Fall.
They are by no means numerous, and are gene-
rally {een in pairs; they are never fought after as
an article df food, but when killed by the Indian
-boys, are efteemed good eating, though they al-
ways feed on worms and infeéts.

Croibek, ©ROSBEAK. Thefe gay birds vifit Churchill
River in fome years fo early as the latter end of |
March, but are by no means plentiful; they are
always feen in pairs, and generally feed on the
buds of the poplar and willow. ‘The male is in
moft parts of its plumage of a beautiful crimfon,
but the female of a dull dirty green. In form

3 they,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

they much refemble the Englifh bullfinch, but
are near double their fize. ‘They build their nefts
in trees, fometimes not far from the ground; lay
four white eggs, and always hatch them in June.
They are faid to have a pleafing note in Spring,
though I never heard it, and are known to retire
to the South early in the Fall. The Englifh re-
fiding in Hudfon’s Bay generally call this bird the
American Red Bird.

Snow Buntines, univerfally known in Hud. 5°“
Bunting,

fon’s Bay by the name of the Snow Birds, and in
the Ifles of Orkney by the name of Snow Flakes,
from their vifiting thofe parts in fuch numbers
as to devour the grain as foon as fown, in fome
years are fo deftructive as to oblige the farmer to
fow his fields a fecond, and occafionally a third

time. Thefe birds make their appearance at the _

Northern fettlements in the Bay about the latter
end of May, or beginning of April, when they
are very fat, and not inferior in flavour to an
ortolan. On their firft arrival they generally
feed on grafs-feeds, and are fond of frequenting
dunghills. At that time they are eafily caught in
great numbers under a net baited with groats or
oatmeal; but as the Summer advances, they feed
much on worms, and are then not fo much
efteemed. They fometimes fly in fuch large
flocks, that I have killed upwards of twenty at
one fhot, and have known others who have kill-
ed double that number. In the Spring their plu-
mage is prettily variegated, black and white;

but

White-
crowned
Bunting.

Tapland
finch.

A JOURNEY TO THE

but their Summer drefs may be called elegant,
though not gay. They live long in confinement,
have naturally a pleafing note, and when in com-
pany with Canary birds foon imitate their fong.
I have kept many of them in cages in the fame
room with Canary birds, and always found they
fung in Winter as well as in Summer; but even
in confinement they change their plumage accord-
ing to the feafon, the fame asin a wild flate. This
fpecies of bird feem fond of the coldeft regions,
for as the Spring advances they fly fo far North
that their breeding-places are not known to the
inhabitants of Hudfon’s Bay. In Autumn they
return to the South in large flocks, and are fre-
quently fhot in confiderable numbers merely as
a delicacy ; at that feafon, however, they are by
no means fo good as when they firft make their
appearance in Spring.

WHITE-CROWNED Buntinc. This fpecies is
inferior in fize to the former, and feldom make
their appearance till June. They breed in moft
parts of the Bay, always make their nefts on the
ground, at the root of a dwarf willow or a goofe-

berry-bufh. During the time their young are in

a callow ftate they have a delightful note, but as
foon as they are fledged they become filent, and

retire to the South early in September.
LAPLAND Fincn. This bird is common on
Hudfon’s Bay, and never migrates Southward in
the coldeft Winters. During that feafon it gene-
rally frequents the juniper plains, and feeds on the
{mall

NORTHERN OCEAN. 42

{mall buds of that tree, alfo on grafsfeeds ; but
at the approach of Summer it flies ftill farther
North to breed. A variety of this bird is alfo
common, and is beautifully marked with a red
forehead and breaft. It is moft common in the
Spring, and frequently caught in nets fet for the
Snow Bunting; and when kept in cages has a
pleafing note, but feldom lives long in confine-
ment, though it generally dies very fat.

Larks of a pretty variegated colour frequent Larks.
thofe parts in Summer, and always make their
appearance in May; build their nefts on the
ground, ufually by the fide of a ftone at the root
of a finall bufh, lay four fpeckled eggs, and bring
forth their youngin June. At their firft arrival,
and till the young can fly, the male is in full
fong; and, like the fky-lark, foars to a great
height, and generally defcends in a perpendicu-
lar direction near their neft. Their note is loud
and agreeable, but confifts of little variety, and
as foon as the young can fly they become filent,
and retire to the Southward early in the Fall.
They are impatient of confinement, never fing in
that ftate, and feldom live long.

The Tirmouse is ufually called in Hudfon’s Titmout.
Bay, Blackcap. This diminutive bird braves the
coldeft Winter, and during that feafon feeds on
the feeds of long rye-grafs, but in Summer on
infeéts and berries, ‘The Southern Indians call
this bird Kifs-kifs-hefhis, from a twittering noife
they make, which much refembles that word in

found,
SWALLows

Us

424.

Swallows.

Martins,

Hooping

Crane.

A JOURNEY TO THE

Swattows vifit thefe parts in confiderable
numbers in Summer, and are very domeftic;
building their nefts in neceffaries, ftables, and
other out-offices that are much frequented. They
feldom make their appearance at Churchill River
till June, and retire South early in Auguft.
They, like the European Swallow, gather in large
flocks on the day of their departure, make feve-
ral revolutions round the breeding-places, and
then take their leave till the next year. 1 donat
recollect to have feen any of thofe birds to the
North of Seal River.

Martins alfo vifit Hudfon’s Bay in great num-
bers, but feldom fo far North as Churchill River.
They ufually make their nefts in holes formed
in the fteep banks of rivers; and, like the Swal-
low, lay four or five f{peckled eggs; and retire
Southward in Auguft. At the Northern fettle-
ments they are by no means fo domeftic as the
Swallow.

Hoorinc Crane. This bird vifits Hudfon’s
Bay in the Spring, though not in great numbers,
They are generally feen only in pairs, and that
not very often, It is a bird of confiderable fize,
often equal to that of a good turkey, and the
great length of the bill, neck, and legs, makes it
meafure, from the bill to the toes, near fix feet in
common, and fome much more. Its plumage is
of a pure white, except the quill-feathers, which
are black ; the crown is covered with a red fkin,
thinly befet with black briftles, and the legs are

large

NORTHERN OCEAN,

Jarge and black. It ufually frequents open
{wamps, the fides of rivers, and the margins of
lakes and ponds, feeds on frogs and {mall fifh,
and efteemed good eating. ‘The wing-bones of
this bird are fo long and large, that 1 have known
them made into flutes with tolerable fuccefs. It
feldom has more than two young, and retires
Southward early in the fall.

425

The Brown Crane. This fpecies is far infe- Gro*"

rior in fize to the former, being feldom three
feet anda half in length, and on an average not
weighing feven pounds. ‘Their haunts and man-
ner of life are nearly the fame as that of the Hoop-
ing Crane, and they never have more than two
young, and thofe feldom fly till September. They
are found farther North than the former, for I
have killed feveral of them on Marble Ifland, and
have feen them on the Continent as high as the
Jatitude 65°. They are generally cReemed good
eating, and, from the form of the body when fit

for the {pit, they acquire the name of the North |

Weft Turkey. There is a circumftance refpect-
ing this bird that is very peculiar; which is, that
the gizzard is larger than that of a fwan, and re-
markably fo in the young birds. The Brown
Cranes are frequently feen in hot calm days to

foar to an amazing height, always flying in circles, °

till by degrees they are almoft out of fight, yet
their note is fo loud, that the fport{man, before
he fees their fituation, often fancies they are very
-near him. They vifit Hudfon’s Bay in far

greater

426

Bitterns,

Curlew.

A JOURNEY TO THE

greater numbers than the former, and are very —
good eating. | |
BITTERNs are common at York Fort in Sum. ©
mer, but are feldom found fo far North as ©
Churchill River. I have feen two fpecies of this —
bird; fome having afh-coloured legs, others with
beautiful grafs-green legs, and very gay plumage.
They always frequent marfhes and {wamps, alfo
the banks of rivers that abound with reeds and
long grafs. They generally feed on infects that
are bred in the water, and probably on {mall
frogs; and though feldom fat, they are gene-
rally good eating. They are by no means nu-
merous even at York Fort, nor in fact in the moft

Southern parts of the Bay that I have vifited.
Curzews. ‘There are two fpecies of this bird
which frequent the coafts of Hudfon’s Bay in
great numbers during Summer, and breed in all
parts of it as far North as the latitude 72°; the
largeft of this {pecies is diftinguifhed by that great
Naturalift Mr. Pennant, by the name of the Ef
quimaux Curlew. They always keep near the ~
fea coaft ; attend the ebbing of the tide, and are
frequently found at low-water-mark in great
numbers, where they feed on marine infeéts,
which they find by the fides of ftones in great
plenty; but at high-water they retire to the dry
ridges and wait the receding of the tide. They
fly as fteady as a woodcock, anfwer to a whiftle
that refembles their note; lay long on their wings, |
and are a moft excellent fhot, and at times are
~ delicious

NORTHERN OCEAN. 427

delicious eating. ‘The other fpecies of Curlew
are in colour and fhape exactly like the former,
though inferior in fize, and differ in their man-
ner of life, as they never frequent the water’s-
edge, but always keep among the rocks and dry
ridges, and feed on berries and {mall infects.
The flefh of this bird is generally more efteemed
than that of the former, but they are by no means
fo numerous. This fpecies of Curlew are feldom
found farther North than Egg River.

Jack Snipes. Thofe birds vifit Hudfon’s Bay J*sS"P**
in Summer in confiderable numbers, but are fel-
dom feen to the North of Whale Cove.. They
do not arrive till the ice of the rivers is broke
up, and they retire to the South early in the Fall.
During their ftay, they always frequent marfhes
near the fea coaft, and the fhores of great rivers.
In manner and flight they exa¢tly refemble the
European Jack Snipe; and when on the wing,
fly at fuch a diftance from each other, that it is
but feldom the beft fport{man can get more than
one or two ata fhot. Their flefh is by no means
fo delicate as that of the Englifh Snipe.

Rep Gopwairs, ufually called at the Northern ®«¢ Gos.
fettlements in Hudfon’s Bay, Plovers. Thofe _
birds vifit the fhores of that part in very
large flocks, and ufually frequent the marfhes
and the margins of ponds. They alfo frequently
attend the tide, like the Efquimaux Curlews; fly
down to low-water-mark, and feed on a {mall fifh,
not much unlike a fhrimp ; but as the tide flows,

they

428

Spotted
Godwait.,

A JOURNEY TO THE

they retire to the marfhes. They fly in fuch
large flocks, and fo clofe to each other, that I
have often killed upwards of twelve at one fhot;
and Mr. Atkinfon, long refident at York Fort,
actually killed feventy-two at one fhot; but that
was when the birds were fitting. Near Church-
ill River they are feldom fat, though tolerably
flefhy, and are generally good eating. They ufu-

ally weigh from ten to thirteen ounces; the —

female is always larger than the male, and differs
in colour, being of a much lighter brown. They
retire to the South long before the froft commen-
ces; yet I have feen this bird as far North as the
latitude 71° 50’.

SportepD GopwaitT, known in Hudfon’s Bay

by the name of Yellow Legs. This bird alfo vi-

fits that country in confiderable numbers, but
more fo in the interior parts; and ufually fre-

quents the flat muddy banks of rivers. In fum-.

mer it is generally very poor, but late in the Fall
is, as it may be called, one lump of fat. This bird,
with many others of the migratory tribe, I faw
in confiderable numbers as far North as the lati-
tude 71° 54’; and at York Fort I have known
them fhot fo late as the latter end of October :
at which time they are in the egreateft perfection,
and moft delicious eating, more particularly fo
when put into a bit of pafte, and boiled like an
apple-dumpling; for in fact they are generally toa
fat at that feafon to be eaten either roafted or
boiled.

HEBRIDAL

NORTHERN OCEAN, 429g

Hepsripat SANDPIPERS, but more commonly Hebridal
known in Hudfon’s Bay by the Name of Whale"?
Birds, on account of their feeding on the carcafes
of thofe animals which frequently lie on the
fhores, alfo on maggots that are produced in them
by fly-blows. Thefe birds frequent thofe parts
in confiderable numbers, and always keep near
the margin of the fea. They may, in fact, be
called beautiful birds, though not gay in their
plumage; they are ufually very fat, but even
when firft killed they {mell and tafte fo much like
train-oil as to render them by no means pleafing
to the palate, yet they are frequently eaten by
the Company’s fervants. As the Summer ad-
vances they fly fo far North of Churchill River,
that their breeding-places are not known, though
they remain at that part till the beginning of
July, and return early in the Fall. They are by
no means large birds, as they feldom weigh four
ounces. ‘The bill is black, plumage prettily vari-
egated black and white, and the legs and feet are
of a beautiful orange colour*.

PLovers, commonly called Hawk’s Eyes, from Plover.
their watchfulnefs to prevent a near approach
when fitting. When thefe birds are on the
wing, they fly very fwift and irregular, par-
ticularly when fingle or in fmall flocks. At
Churchill River they are by no means numerous,

but

* They exactly correfpond with the bird*defcribed by Mr. Pennant, ex-
cept that they are much longer.

430

Black Gul-
lemots.

A JOURNEY TO THE

but [ have feen them in fuch large flocks at York
Fort in the Fall of one thoufand feven hundred
and feventy-three, that Mr. Ferdinand Jacobsthen
Governor, Mr. Robert Body Surgeon, and my-
felf, killed in one afternoon as many as two men
could conveniently carry. They generally feed
on infeéts, and are at all times good eating, but
late in the Fall are moft excellent. They are by
no means equally plentiful in all years; and at —
the Northern fettlements in the Bay they are not
clafled with thofe fpecies of game that add to the
general ftock of provifions, being only killed as
a luxury; but I am informed that at Albany
Fort, feveral barrels of them are annually falted
for Winter ufe, and are efteemed good eating.
This bird during Summer reforts to the remoteft
Northern parts; for I have feen them at the Cop-
per River, though in thofe dreary regions only
in pairs. The young of thofe birds always
leave their nefts as foon as hatched, and when but
a few days old run very faft; at night, or in
rainy weather, the old ones call them together,
and cover them with their wings, in the fame
manner as a hen does her chickens.

Buack GuLuEMmots, known in Hudfon’s Bay
by the name of Sea Pigeons. ‘Thofe birds fre-
quent the fhores of Hudfon’s Bay and Straits in
confiderable numbers ; but more particularly the
Northern parts, where they fly in large flocks; to
the Southward they are only feen in pairs. They
are of a fine black, but not glofly, with fcarlet

legs

NORTHERN OCEAN.

legs and feet ; and the coverets of the wings are

marked with white. They are in weight equal’

to a Widgeon, though to appearance not fo
large. They ufually make their nefts in the holes
of rocks, and lay two white eggs, which are de-
licate eating, but not proportionably large for
the fize of the bird. My friend Mr. Pennant
fays, they brave the coldeft Winters in thofe parts,
by keeping at the edge of the ice near the open
water; but as the fea at that feafon is frozen
over for feveral miles from the fhore, I believe
no one’s curiofity ever tempted him to confirm
the truth of this; and it is well known they ne-
ver make their appearance near the land after the
froft becomes fevere.

NorTHERN Divers. Thefe birds, though com-

Northern

mon in Hudfon’s Bay, are by no means plentiful ; Pv.

they are feldom found near the fea coaft, but more
frequently in frefh water lakes, and ufually in
pairs. ‘They build their nefts at the edge of imall
iflands, or the margins of lakes or ponds ; they
lay only two eggs, and it is very common to
find only one pair and their young in one fheet
of water ; a great proof of their averfion to foci-
ety. They are known in Hudfon’s Bay by the
name of Loons. They differ in fpecies from the
Black and Red throated Divers, having a large
black bill near four inches long ; plumage on the
back of a gloffy black, elegantly barred with
white; the belly of a filver white; and they are
fo large as at times to weigh fifteen or fixteen

pounds.

432

Black-
throated
Divers.

Red-throat-
ed Divers.

A JOURNEY TO THE

pounds. Their flefh it always black, hard, and
- fithy, yet it is generally eaten by the Indians.

BLack-THROATED Divers. This fpecies are
more beautiful than the former; having a long
white bill, plumage on the back and wings black,
elegantly tinged with purple and green, and pret-
tily marked with white fpots. In fize they are
equal to the former; but are fo watchful as to
dive at the flafh of a gun, and of courfe are {el-
dom killed but when on the wing. ‘Their flefh
is equally black -and fifhy with the former, but it
is always eaten by the Indians. The fkins of thofe
birds are very thick and ftrong, and they are fre-
quently drefled with the feathers on, and made
into caps for the Indian men. The fkins of the
Eagle and Raven, with their plumage complete,
are alfo applied to that ufe, and are far from be-
ing an unbecoming head-drefs for a favage.

Rep-THROATED Divers. This f{pecies are alfo
called Loons in Hudfon’s Bay; but they are fo
far inferior to the two former, that they feldom
weigh more than three or four pounds. They,
like the other f{pecies of Loon, are excellent di-
vers; they always feed on fifth, and when in pur-
fuit of their prey, are frequently entangled in fith-
ing-nets, fet at the mouths of creeks and {mall
rivers. hey are more numerous than either of
ihe former, as they frequently fly in flocks; but
like them make their nefts at the edge of the
water, and only lay two eggs, which, though ve-

ry rank and fifhy, are always eaten by Indians and
Englith.

7

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Englifh. The legs of thofe three fpecies of Loon
are placed fo near the.rump as to be of no fervice
to them on the land, as they are perfectly tnca-
pable of walking; and when found in that fitua-
tion (which is but feldom) they are eafily taken,
though they make a ftrong refiftance with their
bill, which is very hard and fharp.

Wauire Guus. Thefe birds vifit Hudfon’s
Bay in great numbers, both on the fea coafts and
in the interior parts, and probably extend quite
acrofs the continent of America, They general-
ly make their appearance at Churchill River about
the middle of May; build their nefts on - the
iflands in lakes and rivers; lay two f{peckled eggs,
and bring forth their young in June. Their
eges are generally efteemed good eating, as well
as the flefh of thofe in the interior parts of the
country, though they feed on fifh and carrion.

They make their ftay on Hudfon’s Bay as long .

in the Fall as the froft will permit them to pro-
cure a livelihood.

433

WhiteGulls

Grey Guits. Thefe birds, though common, Grey Gulls,

are by no means plentiful; and I never knew
their breeding-places, as they feldom make their
appearance at Churchill River till the Fall of the
year, and remain there only till the ice begins to
be formed about the fhores. They ieldom fre-
quent the interior parts of the country. They
are not inferior in fize to the former, and in the
Fall of the year are generally fat. The fleth is
white and very good eating; and, like moit other

Ff Gulls,

434 A JOURNEY TO THE

Gulls, they are a moft excellent fhot when on
the wing.

BlackGulls.- Buack Gutts, ufually called in Hudfon’s Bay,
Men of War, from their purfuing and taking the
prey from a leffer fpecies of Gull, known in that
country by the name of Black-head. In fize they —
are much inferior to the two former fpecies ;
but, like them, always make their nefts on iflands,
or at the margins of lakes or ponds; they lay
only two eggs, and are found at a confiderable
diftance from the fea coaft. The length of their
wings is very great in proportion to the body ;
the tail is uniform, and the two middle feathers
are four or five inches longer than the reft. Their
eges are always eaten, both by the Indians and
Englith; but the bird itfelf is generally rejected,”
except when other provifions are very fcarce.

Black- Buack-Heaps. Thefe are the fmalleft fpecies

heads. of Gull that [know. They vifit the fea coatt of

- Hudfon’s Bay in fuch vaft numbers, that they
are frequently feen in flocks of feveral hundreds ;
and I have known bubhels of their eggs taken on
an ifland of very {mall circumference. Thefe
eggs are very delicate eating, the yolks being
equal to that of a young pullet, and the whites
of a femi-tranfparent azure, but the bird itfelf is
always fifhy. Their affection for their young is
fo ftrong, that when any perfon attempts to rob
their nefts, they fly at him, and fometimes ap-
proach fo near as to touch him with their pini-
ons; and when they find their lofs, will frequent-

ly

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ly follow the plunderer toa confiderable diftance.
and exprefs their grief by making an unufual
{creaming noile.

This bird may be ranked with the elegant part
of the feathered creation, though it is by no
‘means gay. ‘The bill, legs, and feet are of a rich
fearlet ; crown black, and the remainder of.the
plumage of a light afh-colour, except the quill-
feathers, which are prettily barred, and tipped
with black, and the tail much forked. The
flight, or extent of wing, in this bird, is very
great, in proportion to the body. ‘they’ are
found as far North as has hitherto been vifited,
but retire to the South early in the Fall.

435

Peticans. Thofe birds are numerous in the Pelicans

interior parts of the country, but never appear
near the fea-coaft. They generally frequent large
lakes, and always make their nefls on iflands.
They are fo provident for their young, that great
quantities of fifh lie rotting near their nefts, and
emit fuch a horrid ftench as tobe fmelt at a con-
fiderable diftance. The flefh of the young Peli-
can is frequently eaten by the Indians; and as
they are always very fat, great quantities of it is
melted down, and preferved in bladders for Win-
ter ufe*, to mix with pounded flefh; but by
EF f 2 keeping,

* In the Fall of 1774, when I firft fettled at Cumberland Houfe, the
Indians impofed on me and my people very mach, by felling us Pelican
fit for the fat of the black bear. Our knowledge of the delicacy of the
latter induced us to referve this fat for paiticular purpofes; but when we

came to open the bladders, it was little fuperior to train oil, and was ‘on-

ly

436

Goofandeis

A JOURNEY TO THE

keeping, it grows very rank. The Pelicans in
thofe parts are about the fize of a common goofe ;
their plumage is of a delicate white, except the
quill-feathers, which are black. ‘The bill is near
a foot long ; and the bag, which reaches from
the outer-end of the under. mandible to the breaft,
is capable of containing upwards of three quarts.
The fkins of thofe birds are thick and tough,
and are frequently drefled by the Indians and
converted into bags, but are never made into
clothing, though their feathers are as hard, clofe,
and durable, as thole of a Loon.

Goosanbers, ufually called in Hudfon’s Bay,
Shell-drakes. Thofe birds, are very common on
the fea-coaft, but in the interior parts fly in very
Jarge flocks, The bill 1s long and narrow, and
toothed like a faw; and they have a tuft of fea-
thers at the back of the head, which they can
erect at pleafure. They are moft excellent divers,
and fuch great deftroyers of fifh, that they are

frequently obliged to vomit fome of them before

they can take flight. Though not much larger
than the Mallard Duck, they frequently {wallow
fifh of tix or feven inches long and proportiona-
bly thick. Thofe that frequent the interior parts
of the country prey much on crawfifh, which

are

ly eatable by a few of my crew, which at that time confifted only of eight
Englilhmen and two of the home Indians from York-Fort.

Cuiberland Honfe was the firft inland fettlement the Company made
from {.;dion’s Fort; and though begun on fo imail a fcale, yet upon it
and Iiudicn’s Houfe, which is fituated beyond it, upwards of feventy
men were now employed.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

are very numerous in fome of the fhallow ftony
rivers. Inthe Fall of the year they are very fat,
and though they always feed on fifh, yet their
flefh at that feafon is very good; and they re.
main in thofe parts as long as the froft will per-
mit them to procure a fubfiltence.

437

Swans. ‘There are two fpecies of this bird swans.

that vifit Hudfon’s Bay in fummer ; and only
differ in fize, as the plumage of both are perfect-
ly white, with black bill and legs. The {maller
fort are more frequent near the fea-coaft, but by
no means plentiful, and are moft frequently feen
in pairs, but fometimes fingle, probably owing to
their mates having been killed on their paflage
North. Both fpecies ufually breed on the iflands
which are in lakes; and the eggs of the larger
{pecies are fo big, that one of them 1s a fuflicient
meal for a moderate man, without bread, or any
other addition. In the interior parts of the coun-
try the larger Swan precedes every other {pecies
of water-fowl, and in fome years arrive fo early
as the month of March, long before the ice of the
rivers is broken up. At thofe times they always
frequent the open waters of falls and rapids, where
they are frequently fhot by the Indians in confi-
derable numbers. They ufually weigh upwards
of thirty pounds, and the lefler fpecies from
eighteen to twenty-four. The flefh of both are
excellent eating, and when roafted, is equal in
flavour to young heifer-beef, and the cygnets are
very delicate.

Nat-

438

A JOURNEY TO THE

Notwithfianding the fize of this bird, they are
fo {wift on the wing as to make them the moft
difficult to fhoot of any bird I know, it being fre-
quently neceffary to take fight ten or twelve feet
before their bills. This, however, is only when —
flying before the wind in a brifk gale, at which
time they cannot fly at a lefs rate than an hundred
miles an hour; but when flying acrofs the wind,
or againit it, they make but a flow progtefs, and
are then a noble fhot. In their moulting ftate
they are not eafily taken, as their large feet, with
the aflilance of their wings, enables them to run
on the furface of the water as fait as an Indian
canoe can be paddied, and therefore they are al-
ways obliged to be fhot; for by diving and other
Manoeuvres they render it impoffible to take —
them by hand. It has been faid that the fwans
whiftle or fing before their death, and I have

read fome elegant defcriptions of it in fome of the

poets; but I have never heard any thing of the
kind, though I have been at the deaths of feveral. ,

It is true, in ferene evenings, after Sun-fet, I

have heard them make a noife not very unlike
that of a French-horn, but entirely divefted of
every note that conftituted melody, and have
often been forry to find it did not forebode their

‘death. Mr. Lawfon, who, as Mr. Pennant juitly

remarks, was no inaccurate obferver, properly
enough calls the largeft {pecies Trumpeters, and
the leiler, Hoopers. Some years ago, when I
built Cumberland Houfe, the Indians killed thofe

3 birds

NORTHERN OCEAN.

birds in fuch numbers, that the down and quills
might have been procured in confiderable quanti-
ties at a trifling expence; but tince the depopula-
tion of the natives by the fmall-pox, which has
alfo driven the few furvivors to frequent other
parts of the country, no advantage can be made
of thofe articles, though of confiderable value in
England*.

Gersr. There are no lefs than ten different Geek.

{pecies of Geefe that frequent the various parts of
Hudfon’s Bay during Summer, and are as follow:
Firft, The Common Grey Goofe. Second, The
Canada Goofe. Third, The White, or Snow
Goofe. Fifth, The Blue Goofe. Sixth, The
Laughing Goofe. Seventh, Thé Barren Goofe.
Eighth, The Brent Goofe. Ninth, The Dunter;

and Tenth, the Bean Goole.
Common Grey Goose. This bird precedes
every other fpecies of Goofe in thofe parts, and
in fome forward Springs arrives at Churchill
River fo early asthe latter end of April, but more
commonly from the eleventh to the fixteenth of
May; and in one year it was the twenty-fixth of
May

* Mr. Pennant, in treating of the Whiftling Swan, takes notice of the
formation of the Windpipe; but on examination, the windpipes of both
the fpecies which frequent Hudfon’s Bay are found to be exaétly alike,
théugh their note is quite different. "he breaf-bone of this bird is diffe-
rent from any other I have feen; fox inftead of being fharp and folid, like
that ofa goofe, it is broad and hollow, Into this cavity the windpipe paffes
from the valve, and reaching quite down to the abdomen, returns intothe
cheft, and joins the lungs. Neither of the {pecies of Swan that frequent
Hudfon’s Bay are mute: but the note of the larger is much louder and
harfher than that of the fmaller.

439

Common
Grey Gooie,

440

Canada
Goote,

A JOURNEY TO THE

May before any Geefe made their appearancé.
At their firft arrival they generally come in pairs,
and are fo fond of fociety, that they fly ftreight
to the call that imitates their note; by which
means they are eafily fhot. They breed in great
numbers in the plains and marfhes near Church-
ill River; and in fame years the young ones can
be taken in confiderable numbers, and are eafily
tamed; but will never learn to eat corn, unlefs
fome of the old ones are taken with them, which
is eaftiy done when in a moulting ftate. On the
ninth of Augult one thoufand feven hundred and
eighty-cne, when IJ refided at Prince of Wales’s
Fort, 1 fent fome Indians up Churchill River in
canoes to procure fome of thofe Geefe, and in the
afternoon they were feen coming down the river
with a large flock before them; the young ones
not more than half-grown, and the old ones fo
far in a moulting ftate as not to be capable of fly-
ing; fothat, with the affiftance of the knglith and
the Indians then refiding on the plantation, the
whole flock, to the amount of forty-one, was
drove within the ftockade which inclofes the
Fort, where they were fed and fattened for Win-
ter ufe. Wild Geefe taken and fattened in this
manner are much preferable to any.tame Geefe
in the world. When this fpecies of Geefe are
full-grown, and in good condition, they often
weigh twelve pounds, but more frequently much
lefs.

Canapa Goose, or Pifk-a-fifh, as it is called

by

NORTHERN OCEAN,

by the Indians, as well as the Englifh in Hudfon’s
Bay. ‘This fpecies do not differ in plumage from
the former, but are inferior in fize; the bill is
much fmaller in proportion, and the flefh being
much whiter, of courfe is more efteemed. They
are by no means fo numerous as the former, and
generally fly far North to breed; but fome few
of their eggs are found near Churchill River. It
is feldom that either of thefe fpecies lay more
than four eggs; but if not robbed, they ufually
bring them all forth.

Wuite or Snow Goose. ‘Thefe are the moft white o-
numerous of all the {pecies of birds that frequent °°" °°
the Northern parts of the Bay, and generally
make their appearance about a week or ten days
after the Common Grey Goofe. In the firft part
of the feafon they come in fmall parties, but
in the middle, and toward the latter end, they
fly infuch amazing flocks, that when they fettle
in the marfhes to feed, the ground for a canfide-
rable diftance appears like a field of fnow. When
feeding in the fame marfh with the Grey Geefe,
they never mix. Like the Grey Geefe, they fly
to the call that refembles their note ; and in fome
years are killed and falted in great numbers for
Winter provifion; they are almoft univerfally
thought good eating, and will, if proper care be

44i

taken in curing them, continue good for eighteen
months or two years. ‘The Indians are far more
expert in killing Geefe, as well as every other {pe-
cies of game, than any European I ever faw in

Hudfon’s

442

A JOURNEY TO THE

Hudfon’s Bay ; for fome of them frequently kill
upward of a hundred Geefe in a day, whereas
the moft expert of the Englifh think it a good
day’s work to kill thirty. Some years back it
was common for an Indian to kill from a thoufand
to twelve hundred Geefe in one feafon ; but lat-

- terly he isreckoned a good hunter that kills three

hundred. ‘This is by ro means owing to the de.
seneracy of the natives ; for the Geefe of late
years do not frequent thofe parts in fuch num-
bers as formerly. The general breeding-place
of this bird is not known to ahy Indian in Hud-
fon’s Bay, not even to the Efquimaux who fre.
quent the remoteft North. The general route
they take in their return to the South in the Fall
of the year, is equally unknown; for though fuch
multitudes of them are feen at Churchill River
in the Spring, and are frequently killed to the
amount of five or fix thoufand ; yet in the Fall
of the year, feven or eight hundred is confidered
a good hunt. At York Fort, though only two
deerees South of Churchill River, the Geefe fea-
fons fluctuate fo much, that in fome Springs they
have falted forty hogfheads, and in others not
more than one or two: and at Albany Fort, the
Spring feafon is by no means to be depended on;
but in the fall they frequently falt fixty hogf-
heads of Geefe, befides great quantities of Plover.
The retreat of thofe birds in Winter is equally
unknown, as that of their breeding-places. I

obferve in Mr. Pennant’s Arctic Zoology, that
about

NORTHERN OCEAN,

about Jakutz, and other parts of Siberia, they
are caught in great numbers, both in nets, and by
decoying them into hovels; but if thefe are the
fame birds, they muft at times vary as much in
manner as they do in fituation; for in Hudfon’s
Bay they are the fhyeft and moft watchful of all
the fpecies of Geefe, never fuffering an open ap-
proach, not even within two or three gun-fhots ;
yet in fome of the rivers near Cumberland Houfe,
and at Bafquiau, the Indians frequently kill
twenty at one fhot; but this is only done in
moon-light nights, when the Geefe are fitting on
the mud, and the {portfmen are perfectly con-
cealed from their view. Though the plumage of
thofe Geefe are perfectly white, except the quill-
feathers, which are black, the fkin is of a dark
lead-colour, and the flefh is excellent eating, ci.
ther frefh or falt. They are much inferior in
fize to the Common Grey Geefe, but equal to the
Canada Geele.

443,

Biue Geese. This fpecies are of the fame fize Blue Geefe.

as the Snow Geefe; and, like them, the bill and
legs are of a deep fiefh-colour, but the whole
plumage is of a dirty blue, refembling old lead.
The fkin, when ftripped of its feathers, is of the
fame colour as the Snow Goofe, and they are
equally good eating. This fpecies of Geefe are
feldom feen to the North of Churchill River, and
not very common at York Fort; but at Albany
Fort they are more plentiful than the White or
Snow Geefe. Their breeding-places are as little

known

444

Horned
Wavcy.

A JOURNEY TO THE

known to the moft accurate obferver as thofe of
the Snow Geefe; for I never knew any of their
egos taken, and their Winter haunts have hither-
to been undifcovered. ‘Thofe birds are frequent-
ly feen to lead a flock of the White ones; and, as
they generally fly in angles, it is far from unplea-
fant to fee a bird of a different colour leading the
van. The leader is generally the object of the
firft fportfman who fires, which throws the whole
flock into fuch confufion, that fome of the other

hunters frequently kill fix or feven at a fhot.
Hornep Wavey. This delicate and diminu-
tive fpecies of the Goofe is not much larger than’
the Mallard Duck. Its plumage is delicately
white, except the quill-feathers, which are black:
The bill is not more than an inch long, and at the
bafe is ftudded round with little knobs about the
fize of peas, but more remarkably fo in the males.
Both the bill and feet are of the fame colour
with thofe of the Snow Goofe. This fpecies is.
very fcarce at Churchill River, and I believe are
never found at any of the Southern fettlements ;
but about two or three hundred miles to the-
North Weft of Churchill, I have feen them in as
large flocks as the Common Wavey, or Snow
Goofe. The flefh of this bird is exceedingly de-
licate; but they are fo fmall, that when I was on
my journey to the North I eat two of them one
night for fupper. Ido not find this bird defcrib-
ed by my worthy friend Mr. Pennant in his Arc-
tic Zoology. Probably a fpecimen of it was not
fent

-

NORTHERN OCEAN.
fent home, for the perfon that commanded at
Prince of Wales’s Fort* at the time the collection
was making, did not pay any attention to it.

445

Laucuine Goosz. ‘This elegant {pecies has a yaughing
white bill, and the legs and feet are of a fine yel- °°*

low colour; the upper part of the plumage is

brown, the breaft and belly white, the former

prettily blotched with black. In fize they are
equal to the Snow Goofe, and their fkins, when
{tripped of their feathers, are delicately white, and
the flefh excellent. ‘They vifit Churchill River
in very fmall numbers; but about two hundred
miles to the North Welt of that river I have feen
them fly in large flocks, like the Common
Waveys, or Snow Geefe; and near Cumberland
Houle and Bafquiau they are found in fuch num-
bers, that the Indians in moon-light nights fre-
quently kill upwards of twenty at afhot. Like
the Horned Wavey, they never fly with the lead
of the coaft, but are always feen to come from the
Weftward. Their general breeding-places are not
known, though fome few of their eggs are occa-

fionally found to the North of Churchill; but I

never heard any Indian fay that he had feen any
eggs of the Horned Wavey : it is probable they
retire to North Greenland to breed; and their

route in the Fall of the year, as they return South-

ward, is equally unknown. ‘They are, I be-
lieve, feldom feen on the coaft of Hudfon’s Bay
to the Southward of latitude 59° North.

Barren Gerse. ‘Thefe are the largeft of all garnen
the Geefe.

* Mr, Mofes Norton.

446

Brent
Geefe.

A JOURNEY TO THE

the fpecies of Geefe that frequent Hudfon’s Bay,
as they frequently weigh fixteen or feventeen
pounds. They differ from the Common Grey |
Goofe in nothing but in fize, and in the head and
breaft being tinged with arufty brown, They
never make their appearance in the Spring till
the greateft part of the other fpecies of Geefe are
flown Northward to breed, and many of them
remain near Churchill River the whole Summer.
This large fpecies are generally found to be males,
and from the exceeding {mallnefs of their tefti-
cles, they are, I fuppofe, incapable of propagating
their {pecies. 1 believe I can with truth fay, that
I was the firft European who made that remark,
though they had always been diftinguifhed by the
name of the Barren Geefe;, for no other reafon
than that of their not being known to breed.
Their flefh is by no means unpleafant, though al-
ways hard and tough; and their plumage is fo
thick before they begin to moult, that one bird
ufually produces a pound of fine feathers and
down, of a furprifing elatticity.
Beent Guxse. ‘This fpecies certainly breed in
the remoteft parts of the North, and feldom make
their appearance at Churchill River till late in
Auguft or September. ‘The rout they take in
Spring is unknown, and their breeding-places
have never been difcovered by any Indian in
Hudfon’s Bay. When they make their appear-
ance at Churchill River, they always come from
the North, fly near the margin of the coaft, and
are never {een in the interior parts of the country.
| 2 In

«
NORTHERN OCEAN.

In fize they are larger than a Mallard Duck, but
inferior to the Snow Goole; and though their

flefh appears delicate to the eye, it is not much ~

efteemed. In fome years they pafs the mouth of
Churchill River in prodigious numbers, and manv
of them are killed and ferved to the Company’s
fervants as provifions; but, as I have juit obferv-
ed, they are not much relifhed. When migrat-
ing to the South, they generally avail themfelves
of a ftrong North or North Wetterly wind, which
makes then fly fo fwift, that when I have killed
four or five at a fhot, not one of them fell lefs
than from twenty to fifty yards from the perpen-
dicular fpot where they were killed. Like the
White, or Snow Geefe, when in large flocks they
fly in the fhape of a wedge, and make a great
noife. Their flight is very irregular,. fometimes
being forty or fifty yards above the water, and
in an inftant after they fkim clofe to the furface
of it, and then rife again to a confiderable height ;
fo that they may juftly be faid to fly in feftoons.

447

The Dunter Geese, as it is called in Hudfon’s Bee

Bay, but which is certainly the Eider Duck.
They are common at the mouth of Churchill Ri-
ver as foon as theice breaks up, but generally fly
far North to breed; and the few that do remain
near the fettlement are fo fcattered among {mall
iflands, and fea-girt rocks and fhoals, as to ren-
der it not worth while to attempt gathering their
down. ‘Their eggs, when found, are exceeding
good eating; and in the Fall of the year the flefh

3 is

448

BeanGoofe.

Ducks.

A JOURNEY TO THE

is by no means unpleafant, though they are no-
torioufly known to feed on fith., .

Bean Goose. This f{pecies is feldom found in
any part of Hudfon’s Bay, as in all my travels I
have only feen three that were killed. This bird
never came under the infpection of Mr. Graham,
or the late Mr. Hutchins, though they both con-
tributed very largely to the collection fent home
to the Royal Society*.

Species of Water- Fowl.

Ducxs of various kinds aré found in thofe
parts during Summer; fome only frequenting
the fea-coaft, while others vifit the interior parts
of the country in aftonifhing numbers. The fpe-
cies of this bird which is found moft commonly
here are, the King Duck, Black Duck, Mallard
Duck, Long-tailed Duck, Widgeon, and Teal.
The two firft only vifit the fea-coaft, feed on fith

: and

* It is, however, no lefs true, thatthe late Mr. Humphry Martin, many
-years Governor of Albany Fort, fent home feveral hundred fpecimens of
animals and plants to complete that colleGtion; but by fome miftake, no~
thing of the kind was placed to the credit of his account. Even my res
{pected friend Mr. Pennant, who with 2 candour that does him honour,
has fo generoufly acknowledged his obligations to all to whom he thought
he was indebted for information when he was writing his Ar€tic Zoology,-
(fee the Advertifement,) has not mentioned his name; but Iam fully per=
faaded that it entirely proceeded froma want of knowing the perfon;
and as Mr. Hutchins fucceeded him at Albany in the year 14745
every thing that has been fent over from that part has been placed to his
account,

NORTHERN OCEAN. 449

and fifh-fpawn; and their flefh is by. no means
efteemed good, though their eggs are not difa-
greeable.. ‘The Mallard and Long-tailed Duck
vifit Hudfon’s Bay in great numbers, and extend
from the fea-coait, to the remoteft Weftern parts,
and near Cumberland Houfe are found in vatt
multitudes. ‘At their firft arrival on the fea-coaft,
they are exceeding good eating; but when in
a moulting ftate, though very fat, they are in ge-
neral fo rank that few Europeans are fond of
them. At thofe feafons the difference in flavour
is eafily known by the colour of the fat; for when
that is white, the flefh is moft afluredly good ;
but when it is yellow, or of an orange colour, it
is very rank and fifhy. ‘This difference is only
peculiar to thofe that frequent and breed near the
fea-coaft; for in the interior parts I never knew
them killed but their flefh was very good; and
the young Mallard Duck before it can fly is very
fat, and moft delicate eating. The fame may be
faid of the Long-tailed Duck. Neither of thofe
{pecies lay more than fix or eight eggs in common,
and frequently bring them all forth,

Wincron. ‘This {pecies of Duck is very un- Witsee.
common in Hudfon’s Bay; ufually keeping in
pairs, and being feldom feen in flocks. hey
are by no means fo numerous as the two former,
and are moft frequently feen in rivers and mar-
fhes near the fea-coaft. heir fleth is generally
efteemed ; and the down of thofe I have exa-
mined is little inferior in elafticity to that of the

Gg Eider,

450

A JOURNEY TO THE

Eider, though much fhorter. The fame may be
faid of feveral other fpecies of Ducks that fre-
quent thofe parts; but the impoflibility of col-
le@ing the down in any quantity, prevents it
from becoming an article of trade.

Treat. Like the Mallard, they are found in
confiderable numbers near the fea-coaft ; but are
more plentiful in the interior parts of the country,
and fly in fuch large flocks that I have often kill-
ed twelve or fourteen at one fhot, and have feen
both Englith and Indians kill a much greater
number. At their firft arrival they are but poor,
though generally efteemed good eating. This
diminutive Duck is by far the moft prolific of
any [ know that reforts to Hudfon’s Bay; for!
have often feen the old ones fwimming at the
head of feventeen young, when not much larger
than walnuts. This bird remains in thofe parts
as long as the feafon will permit ; for in the year
one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-five, in
my paflage from Cumberland Houfe to York
Fort, I, as well as my Indian companions, killed
them in the rivers we pafled through as late as

the twentieth of O@ober. At thofe times they

are entirely involved in fat, but delicately ee ¢
and may truly be called a great luxury. 4

Befides the birds already defcribed, there ts a
great variety of others, both of land and ‘water
fowl, that frequent thofe parts in Summer; but |

thefe came not fo immediately under my = :

on as thofe [ have already defcribed.
OF"

NORTHERN OCEAN. 4st

Of the Vegetable Productions.

The vegetable productions of this country by
no means engaged my attention fo much as the
animal creation ; which is the lefs to be wonder-
ed at, as fo few of them are ufeful for the fupport
of man. Yet I will endeavour to enumerate as
many of them as I think are worth notice.

The Goosczerriss thrive beft in ftony and pels

‘rocky ground, which lies open and much expof-
ed tothe Sun. But in thofe fituations few of the
bufhes grow to any height, and {pread along the
ground like vines. The fruit is always moft plen-
tiful and the fineft on the under-fide of the bran-
ches, probably owing to the refleéted heat from
the ftenes and gravel, and from being fheltered
from all cold winds and fog by the leaves. I
never faw more than one fpecies of Goofeberry
in any part of Hudfon’s Bay, which is the red
one. When green, they make excellent pies or
tarts; and when ripe are very pleafant eating,
though by no means fo large as thofe produced in
England.

CRANBERRIES grow in great abundance near Cranberie:
Churchill, and are not confined to any particular
fituation, for they are as common on open bleak
plains and high rocks as among the woods.
When carefully gathered in the Fall, in dry wea-

Gg. ther,

Heath-

berries.

ethago-

AOU VE
tominick.

A*JOURNEY’ TO°’THE

ther, and as carefully packed in cafks with moift
fugar, they will keep for years, and are annually
fent to England in confiderable quantities as pre-
fents, where they are much efteemed. When the
fhips have remained in the Bay fo late that the
Cranberries are ripe, fome of the Captains have
carried them home in water with great fuccefs. .
The HeaTuHsBerRties are in fome years fo plen-
tiful near Churchill, that it is impoffible to walk
in many places without treading on thoufands and
millions of them. They grow clofe to the ground,
and are a favourite repaft of many birds that mi-
grate to thofe parts in Summer, particularly the
Grey Goofe; on which account the Indians di-
tinguifh them by the name of. Nifhca-minnick,
or the Grey Goofeberry. The juice of this berry
makes an exceeding pleafant beverage, and the
fruit itfelf would be more pleafing were it not

for the number of {mall feeds it contains.
BETHAGO-TOMINICK, as it is called by the Indi-
ans, or the Dewater-berry of Mr. Dragge. I>
have feen this berry as far North as Marble Iland,
and that in great abundance. It flourifhes beft,
and is moit productive, in fwampy boggy ground
covered with mofs, and is feldom found among
grafs. The plant itfelf is not very unlike that of
a Strawberry, but the leaves are larger. Out of
the center of the plant fhoots a fingle ftalk, fome-
times te the height of feven or eight inches, and
cach plant only produces one berry, which at
fome diftance refembles a Strawberry; but on
exami-

NORTHERN OCEAN. as

examination they have not that. conical form ;
and many of them are only compofed of three or
four lobes, while others confift of near twenty.
The flavour of this berry is far from unpleafing,
and it is eaten by our people in confiderable
quantities during the feafon, (which is Augutt,)
and, like all the other fruits in thofe parts, is fup-
pofed to be wholefome, and a great antifcorbutic.
- Currans, both red and black, are common Currans.
about Churchill River, but the latter are far more
plentiful than the former, and are very large and
fine. The bufhes on which thofe currans grow,
frequently exceed three feet in height, and ge-
nerally thrive beft in thofe parts that are moift
but not fwampy. Small vallies between the
rocks, at fome little diftance from the woods, are
very favourable to them; and I have frequently
obferved that the fruit produced in thofe fituati-
ons is larger and finer than that which is found
inthe woods. Thofe berries have a very great
effect on fome people if eaten in any confiderable
quantities, by acting as a very powerful purgative,
and in fome as an emetic at the fame time;
but if mixed with Cranberries, they never have
that effect.

JuNIPER-BERRIES are frequently found near the J¢""""-
new fettlement at Churchill River, but by no
means in fuch plenty as in the more Southern
and interior parts ‘of the country. The bufh
they grew on is fo fimilar to the creeping pine,
that one half of the Company’s fervants refidine

in

454

Straw-
berries.

®

A JOURNEY TO THE

in Hudfon’s Bay do not know one from the other.
Like the Goofeberry bufhes in thofe parts, the
fruit is always moft plentiful on the under-fide of
the branches. They are not much efteemed ei-
ther by the Indians or Englifh, fo that the few
that are made ufe of are generally infufed in bran-
dy, by way of making a cordial, which is far from
unpleafant*.

STRAWBERRIES }, and thofe of a confiderable
fize and excellent flavour, are found as far North |
as Churchill River; and what is moft remarka-
ble, they are frequently known to be more plen-
tiful in fuch places as have formerly been fet on
fire. This isnot peculiar to the Strawberry, but
itis well known that in the interior parts of the
country, as well as at Albany and Moofe Forts,
that after the ground, or more properly the under-
wood and mofs, have been fet on fire, that Rafp-
berry-bufhes and Hips have fhot up in great num-
bers on fpots where nothing .of the kind had
ever been feen before. This is a phenomenon
that is not eafily accounted for; but it is more
than probable that Nature wanted fome afliftance,
and the mofs being all burnt away, not only ad-
mits the fun to act with more power, but the
heat of the fire muft, in fome meafure, loofen the
texture of the foil, fo as to admit the plants to

fhoot

* The Indians call the Juniper-herry Caw-caw-cuceminick, or the Crow-
berry.
+ The Oteagh*minick of the Indians, is fo called, becaufe it in fome

meafure refembles a heart.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fhoot up, after having been deep-rooted for ma-
ny years without being able to force their way to
the furface.

Befides the Berries already mentioned, there
are three others found as far North as Churchill;
namely, what the Indians call the Eye-berry, and
the other two are termed Blue-berry and Par-
tridge-berry by the Englifh.

455

The Evys-perry grows much in the fame man- Fye-bersy.

ner as the Strawberry, and though fmaller, is in-
finitely fuperior in flavour. This berry is found
in various fituations ; but near Churchill River
they are moft plentiful in fmall hollows among
the rocks, which are fituated fome diftance from
the woods; but they are never known to grow
in fwampy ground, and I never faw them fo plen-
tiful in any part of Hudfon’s Bay as about
Churchill River.

The BLUE-BERRY is about the fize of a Hur- Blueberry.

tleberry, and grows on bufhes which rife to eigh-
teen inches or two feet, but in general are much
lower. They are feldom ripe till September, at
which time the leaves turn to a beautiful red ;
and the fruit, though fmall, have as fine a bloom
as any plum, and are much efteemed for the plea-
fantnefs of their flavour.

The Par rripGE-BERRY is nearly as large as the
Cranberry imported from Newfoundland, and
though of a beautiful tranfparenat red, yet has a
difagreeable tafte. Thefe berries are feldom ta-
ken, either by the Indians or Englifh; and many

of

Partridge-

berry.

456

Hips.

A JOURNEY TO THE

of the latter call them Poifon-berries, but feveral
birds are fond of them. ‘They grow clofe to the
ground, like the Cranberry, and the plant that -
produces them is not very unlike {mall fage,
either in fhape or colour, but has none of its
virtues.

Thad nearly forgotten another fpecies of Berry,
which is found on the dry ridges at Churchill in
confiderable numbers. In fize and colour they
much refemble the Red Curran, and grow on
bufhes fo much like the Creeping Willow, that
people of little obfervation fcarcely known the
difference ; particularly as all the fruit is on the
under-fide of the branches, and entirely hid by
the leaves. I never knew this Berry eaten but
by a frolickfome Indian girl; and as it had no ill
effect, it is a proof it is not unwholefome, though
exceedingly unpleafant to the palate, and not
much lefs fo to the fmell.

Hes of a {mall fize, though but few in number,
are alfo found on the banks of Churchill River,
at fome diftance from the fea. But in the inte-
rior parts of the country they are frequently
found in fuch vaft quantities, that at a diftance
they make the {pots they grow on appear perfe&t-
ly red. In the interior parts of Hudfon’s Bay
they are as large as any I ever remember to have
feen, and when ripe, have a moft delightful
bloom ; but at that feafon there is {carcely one in
ten which has not a worm in it; and they fre-
quently act asa ftrong purgative. }

With

NORTHERN OCEAN.

With refpect to the {maller produétions of the

vegetable world, I am obliged to be in a great
“meafure filent, as the nature of my various occu-
pations during my refidence in this country gave
me little leifure, and being unacquainted with
botany, I viewed with inattention things that
were not of immediate ufe: the few which follow
are all that particularly engaged my attention.

The WisH-a-ca-pucca, which grows in moft
parts of this country, is faid by fome Authors to
have great medical virtues, applied, either in-
wardly as an alterative, or outwardly dried and
pulverifed, to old fores and gangrenes. The
truth, of this 1 much doubt, and could never
think it had the leaft medical quality. It is, how-
ever, much ufed by the lower clafs of the Com-
pany’s fervants as tea; and by fome is thought
very pleafant. But the flower is by far the moft
delicate, and if gathered at a proper time, and
carefully dried in the fhade, will retain its fla-
vour for many years, and make a far more plea-
fant beverage than the leaves. There are feveral
fpecies of this plant, of which fome of the leaves
are nearly as large as that of the Creeping Wil-
low, while others are as {mall and narrow as that
of the Rofemary, and much refembles it in co-
lour; but all the fpecies have the fame fmell and
flavour.

JacxaAsHey-Ppuck. This herb much refembles
Creeping Box; and is only ufed, either by the
Indians or Englifh, to mix with tobacco, which
makes it {moke mild and pleafant ; and would, I

am,

457

Wihh-a-ca~
pucca.

Jakafhey-
puck.

458

Mofs.

Grafs.

A JOURNEY TO THE - --

am perfuaded, be very acceptable to many fmo-
kers in England.

Moss of various forts and colours is plentiful
enough in moft parts of this country, and is what
the deer ufually feed on.

Grass of feveral kinds is alfo found in thofe
parts, and fome of it amazingly rapid of growth,
particularly that which is there called Rye-grafs,
and which, in our fhort Summer at Churchill,
frequently grows to the height of three feet.
Another fpecies of Grafs, which is produced in
marfhes, and on the margins. of lakes, ponds, and
rivers, is particularly adapted for the fupport of
the multitudes of the feathered creation which
refort to thofe parts in Summer. The Marfh
Grafs at Churchillis of that peculiar nature, that
where it is mowed one year, no crop can be pro-
cured the next Summer; whereas at York Fort,
though the climate is not very different, they
can get two crops, or harvefts, from the fame
fpot in one Summer. Vetches are plentiful in
fome parts as far North as Churchill River; and
Burrage, Sorrel, and Coltsfoot, may be ranked
among the ufeful plants. Dandelion is alfo plen-
tiful at Churchill, and makes an early falad, long .
before any thing can be produced in the gardens.

In fact, notwithftanding the length of the
Winter, the feverity of the cold, and the great
fcarcity of vegetables at this Northern fettlement,
by proper attention to cleanlinefs, and keeping
the people at reafonable exercife, I never had one

man

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NORTHERN OCEAN.

man under me who had the leaft fymptoms
of the fcurvy; whereas at York Fort, Albany,
and Moofe River, there were almoft annual
‘ complaints that one half of the people were
rendered incapable of duty by that dreadful dif
order.

I do not wifh to lay claim to any merit on this
occafion, but I cannot help obferving that, during
ten years I had the command at Churchill River,
only two men died of that diftemper, though my
complement at times amounted in number to
fifty-three.

The Foreft Trees that grow on this inhofpita- Trees.

ble fpot are very few indeed; Pine, Juniper,
{mall {cragey Poplar, Creeping Birch, and Dwarf
Willows, compofe the whole catalogue. Farther
Wettward the Birch Tree is very plentiful; and
in the Athapufcow country, the Pines, Larch,
Poplar, and Birch, grow to a great fize; the
Alder is alfo found there.

ion Ee BEND.

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

A PLAN exhibiting Mr. Hearwe’s Tracks in his own
Journies for the Difcovery of the Copper Mine River, in
the Years 1770, 1771, and 1772, under the DireGtion ©
of the Hudfon’s Bay Company. To face the Title-page.

PratelI. A North Weft View of PRINCE oF WALES’s
Fort in Hudfon’s Bay, North America. To face Page 1

Prate Il. Indian Implements. - To face P. 98

Pruate III. ‘Plan of the Copper Mine River.
To face P. 164

PratelV. A Winter View.in thé ATHAPUsCcow Lake.

| To face P. 248°
Pirate V. IndianImplements = At the End. —

Prate VI. Planof Atgany River in Hudfon’s Bay.

At the End.

PraTE VII. Plan of Moose River in Hudfon’s Bay.

At the End. :
Puate VIII, PlanofStupe River. <- At the End.

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