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FROM

Prince’ of Wales’s Fort in Hudfon’s Bay,
| , ie

THE NORTHERN OCEAN

UNDERTAKEN
BY ORDER OF THE HUDSON’s BAY COMPANY,
FOR THE DISCOVERY
OF COPPER MINES, A NORTH WEST PASSAGE, &%.
In the Years 1769, 1770,. 1771, & 17 7Z

by SAMUEL HEARN &.

PE Or Ne Der Orns

Printed for A. SrrauHan and T. CapbeELt:
And Sold by T. Capri Jun. and W. Davits, (Succeffors to
Mr. Capett,) in the Strand.

rose

ae

PT et alll

ea ieee St

s

SAMUEL WEGG, Efg.. - Governor,
Sir JAMES WINTER LA KE, Deputy Governor,
AND. |
THE REST OF THE COMMITTEE

OF THE HONOURABLE

HUDSON’s BAY COMPANY.

HONOURABLE SIRS,
AS the following Journey was undertaken

at your Requeft and Expence, I feel it no
lefs my Duty than my Inclination to addrefs it
to you; hoping that my humble Endeavours
to relate, m a plain and unadorned Style,

the various Circumftances and Remarks which
6 occurred

ie DEDICATION.
occurred during that Journey, will meet with
your Approbation.

Iam, with much Efteem and Gratitude,
HONOURABLE SIRS,

Your moft obedient, and

moft obliged humble Servant,

SAMUEL HEARNE.

ee re Oo Be.

R. Datrympte, in one of his Pamphlets relating to

Hudfon’s Bay, has been fo very particular in his ob-
fervations on my Journey, as to remark, that I have not
explained the conftruction of the Quadrant which I had
the misfortune to break in my fecond Journey to the
North. It was a Hadley’s Quadrant, with a bubble at-
tached to it for an horizon, and made by Daniel Scatlif of
Wapping. But as no inftrument on the fame principle
could be procured when I was fetting out on my laft
Journey, an old Elton’s Quadrant, which had been upwards
of thirty years at the Fort, was the only inftrument I
could then be provided with, in any refpect proper for
making obfervations with on the land.

Mr. Dalrymple alfo obferves, that I only inferted in my
laft Journal to the Company, one obfervation for the lati-
tude, which may be true; but I had, neverthelefs, feveral
others during that Journey, particularly at Snow-bird
Lake, Thelwey-aza-yeth, and-Clowey, exclufive of that
mentioned in the Journal taken at Conge-cathawha-
chaga. But when I was on that Journey, and for feveral

a years _

PR eB a AG) Be

years after, I little thought that any remarks made in it
would ever have attracted the notice of the Public: if I
had, greater pains might and would have been taken to
render it more worthy of their attention than it now is..
At that time my ideas and ambition extended no farther
than to give my employers fuch an account of my pro-
ceedings as might be fatistactory to them, and anfwer the
_purpofe which they had in view ; little thinking it would
ever come under the inf{pection te fo ingenious and inde-
fatigable a geographer as Mr. Dalrymple muft be allowed
to be. But as the cafe has turned out otherwife, I have
at my leifure hours recopied all my Journals into one
book, and in fome inftances added to the remarks I had
before made; not fo much for the information of thofe
who are critics in geography, as for the amufement of can-
did and indulgent readers, who may perhaps feel them-
felves in fome meafure gratified, by having the face of a
country brought to their view, which has hitherto been
entirely unknown to every European except myfelf. Nor
will, I flatter myfelf, a defcription of the modes of living,
manners, and cuftoms of the natives, (which, though long
known, have never been defcribed,} be lefs acceptable to.
the curious.

I cannnot help obferving, that I feel my(elf rather hurt
at Mr. Dalrymple’s rejecting my latitude in fo peremptory
a manner, and in fo great a proportion, as he has done;
becaufe, before I arrived at Conge-cathawhachaga,, the

oun

Pa aa ee, Cy Be

Sun did not fet during the whole night: a proof that I
was then to the Northward of the Aric Circle. I may
be allowed to add, that when I was at the Copper
River, on the eighteenth of July, the Sun’s declination
was but 21°, and yet it was certainly fome height above
the horizon at midnight; how much, as I did not shen
remark, I will not zow take upon me to fay; butit proves
that the latitude was confiderably more than Mr. Dal-
rymple will admit of. His affertion, that no grafs is to
be found on the (rocky) coaft of Greenland farther North
than the latitude of 65°, is no proof there fhould not be
any in a much higher latitude in the interior parts of North
America. For, in the firft place, I think it is more than
probable, that the Copper River empties itfelf into a fort of
inland Sea, or extenfive Bay, fomewhat like that of Hud-
‘fon’s: and it is well known that no part of the coaft of
Hud{on’s Straits, nor thofe of Labradore, at leaft for fome
degrees South of them, any more than the Eaft coaft of
Hudfon’s Bay, till we arrive near Whale River, have any
trees on them; while the Weft coaft of the Bay in the
fame latitudes, is well clothed with timber. Where then
is the ground for fuch an affertion? Had Mr. Dalrymple
confidered this circumftance only, I flatter myfelf he would

not fo haftily have objected to woods and grafs being feen |

in fimilar fituations, though in a much higher latitude.
Neither can the reafoning which Mr. Dalrymple derives from
the error I committed in eftimating the diftance to Cum-
berland Houfe, any way affe@ the queftion under con-

a2 fideration ;

Vil

Vili

By oR Se a ae

fideration ; becaufe that diftance being chiefly in longitude,
I had no means of correéting it by an obfervation, which
was not the cafe here.

I do not by any means wifh to enter intoa difpute with,
or incur the difpleafure of Mr. Dalrymple ; but Hapa,
as I do, that I have not been treated in fo liberal a manner
as I ought to have been, he will excufe me for endeavour-
ing to convince the Public that his objections are in a great
meafure without foundation. And having done fo, I ‘thal!
quit the difagreeable fubje& with declaring, that if any
part of the following fheets fhould afford amufement to
Mr. Dalrymple, or any other of my readers, it will be the
higheft gratification I can receive, and the only recompence
I defire to obtain for the hardfhips and fatigue which I un-
derwent in procuring the information contained in them.

Being well affured that feveral learned and curious
gentlemen are in poffeflion of manufcript copies of, or
extracts from, my Journals, as well as copies of the Charts,
| have been induced to make this copy as correct as pof-
fible, and to publifh it; efpecially as I obferve . that
fearcely any two of the publications that contain extracts
from my Journals, agree in the dates when I arrived at, or
departed from, particular places. To rectify thofe dif
agreements I applied to the Governor and Committee of
the Hudfon’s Bay Company, for leave to perufe my original
Journals. This was granted with the greateft affability

I | and

Bok ER: Boom a.

and politenefs; as well as a fight of all my Charts relative
to this Journey. With this afliftance I have been enabled
to rectify fome inaccuracies that had, by trufting too much
to memory, crept into this copy; and I now offer it to
the Public under authentic dates and the beft authorities,
however widely fome publications may differ from it.

I have taken the liberty to expunge fome paffages which
were inferted in- the original copy, as being no ways
interefting to the Public, and feveral others have under-
gone great alterations; fo that, in fact, the whole may
be faid to be new-modelled, by being blended with a va-
riety of Remarks and Notes that were not inferted in the
original copy, but which my long refidence in the country
has enabled me to add.

The account of the principal quadrupeds and birds that
frequent thofe Northern regions in Summer, as well as
thofe which never migrate, though not defcribed ina {ci-
entific manner, may not be entirely unacceptable to the
moit fcientific zoologifts; and to thofe who are unac-
quainted with the technical terms ufedin zoology, it may
perhaps be more ufeful and entertaining, than if I had de-
{cribed them in the moft cliffical manner. But I muft
not conclude this Preface, without acknowledging, in
the moft ample manner, the affiftance I have received
from the perufal of Mr. Pennant’s Ar&ic Zoology; which
has enabled me to give feveral of the birds their proper

names ;

ix

Ps ORS Bl Bee

names; for thofe by which they are known in Hudfon’s
Bay are purely Indian, and of courfe quite unknown to
every European who has not refided in that country.

To conclude, I cannot fufficiently regret the lofs of a
confiderable Vocabulary of the Northern Indian Language,
containing fixteen folio pages, which was lent to the late
Mr. Hutchins, then Correfponding Secretary to the Com-
pany, to copy for Captain Duncan, when he went on
difcoveries to Hudfon’s Bay in the year one thoufand
feven hundred and ninety. But Mr. Hutchins dying foon
after, the Vocabulary was taken away with the reft of his
effe&s, and cannot now be recovered; and memory, at
this time, will by no means ferve to replace it.

C O N-

CHO OND Ree To's.

[XtTRoODuUcTION. - = ~ Page xxi

GUE AE. I,

Bt from my leaving Prince of Wales's Fort on my firft Expe-
dition, till our Arrival there again.

Set off from the Fort; arrive at Po-co-thee-kif-co Rive one of the
Northern Indians deferts:—Crofs Seal River, and walk on the barren
grounds,—Receive wrong information concerning the diftance of the woods.
— Weather begins to be very cold, provifions all expended, and nothing
to be got.—Strike to the Weftward, arrive at the woods, and kill three
deer.—Set forward in the North Weft quarter, fee the tracks of mufk-oxen
and deer, but killed none.—Very fhort of provifions.—Chawchinahaw wants
us to return.—Neither he nor his crew contribute to our maintenance. —He
influences feveral of the Indians to defert.—Chawchinahaw and all his crew
leave us.—Begin our return to the Factory; kill a few partridges, the firft
meal we had had for feveral days. —Villany.of one of the home Indians and.
his wife, who was a Northern Indian woman.—Arrive at Seal River, kill.
two deer; partridges plenty.—Meet a ftrange Northern Indian, accompany
him to his tent, ufage received there; my Indians affift in killing fome
beaver.«-Proceed toward home, and arrive at the Fort. Pe E

Cor Ae Pie

Tranfattions from our Arrival at the Faétory, to my leaving it again,
and during the Firft Part of my Second fourney, till I had the mif-
fortune to a the Quadrant.

Tranfactions at the Factory.—Proceed on my fecond journey.—Arrive at Seal
River.—Deer plentiful for fome time.—Method of angling fifh under the ice.
—Set our fifhing-nets.—Method of fetting nets under the ice.—My guide

propofes

xii

CO ON WE A A OR

propofes to ftay till the geefe fhould begin to fly; his reafons accepted.—_
Pitch our tent in the beft manner.—Method of pitching a tent in Winter.—
Fith plentiful for fome time; grow very fcarce; in great want of provifions.
— Manner of employing my time.—My guide killed two deer.—Move to
the place they were lying at; there.kill feveral more deer, and three beavers.
—Soon in want of provifions again.—Many Indians join us from the Wett-
ward.—We begin to move towards the barren ground.—Arrive at She-than-
nee, there fuffer great diftrefs for want of provifions.—Indians kill two fwans
and three geefe.—Geefe and other birds of paffage plentiful.— Leave She-
than-nee, and arrive at Beralzone.—One of my companions guns burfts, and
fhatters his left hand.—Leave Beralzone, and get on the barren ground, clear
of all woods.—Throw away our fledges and fnow fhoes.—Each perfon takes
a load on his back ; my part of the luggage. —Expofed to many hardfhips.—

~ Several days without victuals.—-Indians kill three mufk-oxen, but for want

of fire are obliged to eat the meat raw.—Fine weather returns; make a fire;
effects of long Gillin ; flay a day or two to dry fome meat in the Sun.—
Proceed to fife unctueet ds and arrrive at Cathawhachaga ; ; there find fome
tents of Indians. —A Northern Leader called Keelfhies meets us; fend a letter
by him to the Governor.—Tranfactions at Cathawhachaga; leave it and pro-
ceed to the Northward.—Meet feveral Indians ——My guide not willing to

~ proceed; his reafons for it.—Many more Indians join us.—Arrive at Doo-

bant Whoie River.—Manner of ferrying over rivers in the Northern Indian
canoes.—No rivers in thofe parts in a ufeful direction for the natives. —Had
nearly loft the quadrant and all the powder.—Some reflections on our fitua-
tion, and conduc of the Indians—Find the quadrant, and part of the
powder.—Obferve for the latitude.—Quadrant broke.—Refolve to return
again to the Factory. - - - Page 11

GPUS &: ree III.

Tranfactions from the Time the Quadrant was broken, till I arrived at

the Facicry.

Several ftrange Indians join us from tne Northward.—They plunder me of all

I had; but did not plunder the Southern Indians.—My guide plundered.—
We begin our return to the Fa¢tory.—Meet with other Indians, who join

our company.-= Collect deer-fkins for clothing, but could not get them
drefied.

CoNTENT S.

dreffed.— Suffer much hardfhip from the want of tents and warm clothing.—
Mott of the Indians leave us.—Meet with Matonabbee.—Some account of
him, and his behaviour to me and the Southern Indians. —We remain in his
company fome time.—His obfervations on my two unfuccefsful attempts.—
We leave him, and proceed to a placeto which he dire¢ted us, in order to
make f{now-fhoes and fledges.—Join Matonabbee again, and proceed towards
the Factory in his company.—Ammunition runs fhort.—Myfelf and four
Indians fet off poft for the Fattory.—Much bewildered in a fnow ftorm ; my
dogis frozen to death; we lie ina buth of willows.—Proceed onour journey.—
Great difficulty in croffing a jumble of racks.—Arrive at the Fort. Page 47

Gu A PR / IV.

Tranfactions during our Stay at Prince of Wales’s Fort, .and the former
Part of our third Expedition, till our Arrival at Clowey, where we

built Canoes, in May 1771.

Preparations for our departure.—Refufe to take any of the home-guard Indians
with me.—By fo doing, I offend the Governor.—Leave the Fort a third
time.—My inftructions on this expedition.—Provifions of all kinds very
fcarce—Arrive at the woods, where we kill fome deer.— Arrive at Ifland
Lake.—Matonabbee taken ill—Some:remarks thereon. —Join the remainder
of the Indians’ families. Leave Ifland Lake.—Defcription thereof.—Deer
plentiful.—Meet a ftrange Indian.—Alter our courfe from Weft North Weft
to Weft by South.—Crofs Cathawhachaga River, Coffed Lake, Snow-Bird
Lake, and Pike Lake.—Arrive at a tent of ftrangers, who are employed in
{naring deer in a pound.—Defcription of a pound.—Method of proceed-
ing.—Remarks thereon.—Proceed on our journey.x—Meet with feveral
parties of Indians; by one of whom I fenta letter to the Governor at Prince
of Wales’s Fort.—Arrive at Thleweyazayeth.—Employment there.—Pro-
ceed to the North North Weft and Nerth.—Arrive at Clowey.—One of the
Indian’s wives taken in labour.—Remarks thereon,—Cuftoms obferved by

the Northern Indians on thofe occafions. = - - 60

b CHAP.

CON Toby Ny, RUS

CT oA a v:

Tranfattions at Clowey, and on our “Fourney, till our Arrival at a
Copper-mine River.

Several ftrange Indians join us.— Indians employed in building canoes; defcrip-
tion and ufe of them.—More Indians join us, tothe amount of fome hun-
dreds.— Leave Clowey.—Receive intelligence that Keelfhies was near us.—
Two young men difpatched for my letters and goods.—Arrive at Pefhew
Lake; crofs part of it, and make a large Gaol: —One of Matonabbee’s
wives celopes.—Some remarks on the natives.—Keelfhies joins us, and de-
livers my letters, but the goods were all expended.—A Northern Indian -
wifhes to take one of Matonabbee’s wives from him; matters compromifed,
but had like to have proved fatal to my progrefs.—Crofs Pefhew Lake, when
I make proper arrangements forthe remainder of my journey.—Many In-
dians join our party, in order to make war on the Efquimaux at the Copper
River.—Preparations made for that purpofe while at Clowey.—Proceed on
our journey to the North.—-Some remarks on the way.—Crofs Cogead Lake
on the ice.—The fun did not fet.—Arrive at Congecathawhachaga.—Find
feveral Copper Indians there. —Remarks and tranfactions during our ftay at
Congecathawhachaga.—Proceed on our journey. — Weather very bad.—Ar-
rive at the Stoney Mountains.—Some account of them.—Crofs part of Buf-
falo Lake on the ice. —Saw many mufk-oxen.—Defcription ‘of them.— Went
with fome Indians to view Grizzle-bear Hill.—Join a ftrange Northern In-
dian Leader, called O’lye, in company with fome Copper Tate. —Their
behaviour to me.—Arrive at the Copper-mine River. - - Page 95

CG EUAN yaks VI.

Tranfactions at the Copper-mine River, and till we joined all the Women
to the South of Cogead Lake.

Some Copper Indians join us.—TIndians fend three {pies down the river.—Be-
gin my furvey.—Spies return, and give an account of five tents of Efqui-
maux.—Indians confult the beft method to fteal on them in the night, and

kill

©. OO ON Beene es.

kill them while afleep.—Crofs the river. — Proceedings of the Indians as they
advance towards the Efquimaux tents.—-The Indians begin the maffacre
while the poor Efquimaux are afleep, and flay them all.—Much affected at
the fight of one young woman killed clofe to my feet.—The behaviour of
the Indians on this occafion.—Their brutith treatment of the dead bodies.—
Seven more tents feen on the oppofite fide of the river.—The Indians harafs
them, till they fly toa fhoal in the river for fafety.—Behaviour of the In-
dians after killing thofe Efquimaux.—Crofs the river, and proceed to the ©
tents on that fide.—Plunder their tents, and deftroy their utenfils.—-Continue
my furvey to the river’s mouth.—Remarks there.—Set out on my return.—
_ Arrive at one of the Copper-mines.—-Remarks on it-—Many attempts made
to induce the Copper Indians to carry their own goods to market.—Obftacles
to it.—Villany and cruelty of Keelfhies to fome of thofe poor Indians.—
Leave the Copper-mine, and walk at an amazing rate till we join the women,
by the fide of Cogead Whoje.—Much foot-foundered.—The appearance
very alarming, but foon changes for the better.—Proceed to the Southward,
and join the remainder of the women and children.—Many other Indians

arrive with them. - - - - Page 145

Cr cE VAG UP. BARE

Remarks from the Time the Women joined us tul our Arrival at the
Athapufcow Lake.

Several of the Indians fick.—Method ufed by the conjurers to relieve one man,
who recovers.—Matonabbee and his crew proceed to the South Weft.—
Moft of the other Indians feparate, and go their refpective ways.—Pafs by
White Stone Lake.—Many deer killed merely for their fkins.—Remarks
thereon, and on the deer, refpecting feafons and places.—Arrive at Point
Lake.—One of the Indian’s wives being fick, is left behind, to perifh above-

- ground.—Weather very bad, but deer plenty.—Stay fome time at Point
Lake to dry meat, @’c.—Winter fet in.—Superftitious cuftoms obferved by
my companions, after they had killed the Efquimaux at Copper River.—
A violent gale of wind overfets my tent and breaks my quadrant.—Some
Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians join us.-—Indians propofe to go to the Atha-
pufcow Country to kill moofe.—Leave Point Lake, and arrive at the wood’s
edge.—Arrive at Anawd Lake.—Tranfactions there. —Remarkable inftance
of a man being cured of the palfy by the conjurers—Leave Anawd Lake.
—Arrive at the great Athapufcow Lake. < - - 189

b 2 CHAP,

xvl

con fF BN Cok

CH A PR vor

Tranfactions and Remarks. from our Arrival on the South Side of the

Athapufcow Lake, till our Arrival at Prince of Wales's Fort on.
Churchill River.

Crofs the Athapufcow Lake. i Sepiouee of it and its productions, as far as:

could be difcovered in Winter, when the fnow was on the eround.—Fifh
found in the lake. —Defcription of the buffalo ;—of the moofe or elk, and.
the method of dreffing their fkins.—Find a woman alone that had not feen a:
human face for more than feven-months.—-Her account how fhe came to be
in that fituation; and her curious method of procuring a livelihood. —Many
of my Indians wreftled for her.—Arrive at the great Athapufcow River.—
Walk along the fide of the River for feveral days, and then ftrike off to the
Eaftward.—Difficulty in getting through the woods in many places.—
Meet with fome ftrange Norden Indians on their return from the Fort.—
Meet more ftrangers, whom my companions plundered, and from whom they
took one of their young women.—Curious manner of life which thofe ftrangers
lead, and the reafon they gave for roving fo far from their ufual Renee =
Leave the fine level country of the ane. and arrive at the Stony Hills
of the Northern Indian Country.—Meet fome ftrange Northern Indians,

one of whom carried a letter for me to Prince of Wales’s Fore in March one

thoufand feven hundred and feventy-one, and now gave me an anfwer to it,
dated twentieth of June following.—-Indians begin preparing wood-work and
birch-rind for canoes. —The equinoétial gale very fevere.—Indian method of
running the moofe deer down by fpeed of foot.—Arrival at Theeleyaza
River.—See fome ftrangers.—The brutality of my companions.—A tre-
mendous gale and fnow-drift.—Meet with more ftrangers ;—remarks on it.—=
Leave all the elderly people and children, and proceed direétly to the Fort.—.
Stop to build canoes, and then advance.—Several of the Indians die through
hunger, and many others are obliged'to decline the journey for want of am-
munition.—A violent ftorm and inundation, that forced us to the top of a
high hill, where we fuffered great diftrefs for more than two days.— Kill fe-
veral deer.—The Indians method of preferving the flefh without the affiftance
of falt.—See feveral Indians that were going to Knapp’s Bay.—Game of all
kinds remarkably plentiful.—Arrive at the Factory. - Page 247

9 O05 a a

c.O NM FT EUR UF Ss xvii

“Git oA. BP, IX.

A foort Defcription of the Northern Indians, alfo a farther Account of
their Country, Manufactures, Cuftoms, &c.

An account of the perfons and tempers of the Northern Indians. —They poffefs
a great deal of art and cunning.—Are very guilty of fraud when in their
power, and generally exact more for their furrs than any other tribe of In-
dians.—Always diffatisfied, yet have their good qualities.—The men in ge-
neral jealous of their wives.—Their marriages.—Girls always betrothed
when children, and their reafons for it—Great care and confinement of
young girls from the age of eight or nine years.—-Divorces common among

~ thofe people. —The women are lefs prolific than in warmer countries.—Re-
markable piece of fuperftition obferved by the women at particular periods.—
Their art in making it an excufe for a temporary feparation from their huf-
bands on any little quarrel—Reckoned very unclean on thofe occafions.—
The Northern Indians frequently, for the want of firing, are obliged to eat
their meat raw.—Some through neceffity obliged to boil it in veffels made of
the rind of the birch-tree.—A remarkable difh among thofe people.—The
young animals always cut out of their dams eaten, and accounted a great
delicacy.—T he parts of generation of all animals.eat by the men and boys.—.
Manner of paffing their time, and method of killing deer in Summer with
bows and arrows.—Their tents,. dogs, fledges, esi —Snow-fhoes.— Their
partiality to domeftic vermin.—Utmoft extent of the Northern Indian
country.—Face of the country.—Species of fifh.—A peculiar kind of mofs
ufeful for the fupport of man.—Northern Indian method of catching fifth;
either with hooks or nets.— Ceremony obferved when two parties of thofe
people meet.—Diverfions in common ufe.—A fingular diforder which
attacks fome of thofe people.—Their fuperftition with refpect to the death
of their friends.—Ceremony obferved on thofe occafions.—Their ideas of
the firft inhabitants of the world.—No form of religion among them.—Re-
marks on that circumftance:—The extreme mifery to which old age is ex-
pofed.—Their opinion of the Aurora Borealis, &c.—Some account of Ma-
tonabbee, and his fervices to his country, as well as to the Hudfon’s Bay
Company. = = 2 “ Page 304

CHA P.

XVII

CoO NM Wea Mt eos

CH AP. X.

- An Account of the principal Guiidaroeas found in the Northern Parts of Hud.

_ fon’s Bay. The Buffalo,~ Moofe, Mufk-ox, Deer, and Beaver.—A ca-
pital Miftake cleared up refpeéting the We-was-kihh.

Animals with Canine Teeth. The Wolf—Foxes of various colours—
Lynx, or Wild Cat— Polar, or White Bear—Black Bear—Brown Bear—
Wolverene—Otter—Jackafh—Wej ack—Skunk—Pine Martin—FErmine, or
Stote.

Animals with Cutting Teeth. The Mufk Beaver~—Porcupine—Va-
rying Hare—American Hare—Common Squirrel—Ground Pane
of various Kinds, and the Caftor Beaver.

The Pinnated Quadrupeds with fin-like Feet, found in Hudfon’ s Bay,
are but three in number, viz. the Warlus, or Sea- Horfe—Seal—and Sea-
Unicorn.

- The Species of Fifh found in the Salt Water of Hudfon’s Bay are alfo few in

number ; being the Black Whale+-White Whale—Salmon—and Kepling.
Shell-fith, and empty Shells of feveral kinds, found on the Sea Coaft
near Churchill River.

Frogs of various fizes and colours ; alfo a great variety of Grubbs, and other
Infeéts, always found in a frozen ftate during Winter, but when expofed to
the heat of a flow fire, are foon re-animated.

An Account of fome of the principal Birds found in the Northern Parts of
Hudfon’s Bay ; as well thofe that only migrate there in Summer, as thofe
that are known to brave the coldeft Winters: Eagles of various kinds—
Hawks of various fizes and plumage—White or Snowy Owl—Gray or
mottled Owl—Cob-a-dee-cooch—Raven—Cinerious Crow—Wood Pecker
—Ruffed Groufe—Pheafant—Wood Partridge—Willow Partridge—Rock
Partridge — Pigeon—Red-breafted Thrufh—Grofbeak—Snow Bunting—
White-crowned Bunting—Lapland Finch, two forts—Lark—Titmoufe—
Swallow—Martin—Hopping Crane—Brown Crane—Bitron—Carlow, two
forts—Jack Snipe—Red Godwart—Plover—Black Gullemet — Northern
Diver—Black-throated Diver—Red-throated Diver—White Gull—Grey

Gull—Black-head—Pelican—Goofander—Swans of two f{pecies—-Common
Grey

CeO sh rE: Ty a a 5) x1K

Grey Goofe—Canada Goofe—White or Snow Goofe—Blue Goofe—Horned
Wavy—Laughing Goofe—Barren Goofe—Brent Goofe—Dunter Goofe—
Bean Goole.

The fpecies of Water-Fowl ufually called Duck, that refort to thofe. Parts
annually, are in great variety; but thofe that are moft efteemed are, the
Mallard Duck—Long-tailed Duck—Wigeon—and Teal.

Of the Vegetable Productions as far North as Churchill River, particularly the
moft ufeful; fuch as the Berry-bearing Bufhes, &c. Goofeberry—Cran-
berry—Heathberry—Dewater-berry—Black Currans— J uniper-berry—Par-
tridge-berry-—Strawberry—-Eye-berry—Blue-berry—and a {mall fpecies of
Hips.

Burridge, Coltsfoot—Sorrel—Dandelion.
Wifh-a-capucca—Jackafhey-puck—Mofs of various forts—Grafs of fe-
veral kinds—and Vetches.

The Trees found fo far North near the Sea, confift only of Pines—Juni-
per—Small Poplar—Buth-willows—and Creeping Birch, - Page 358

Bees OR A ay 7,

Page 68 line 16, for no read on.
79 —— ult. for poleos read poles. |
89 22, dele we.
yii ——12, for Athapufco read Athapuicow.
202——— 1, fer North Weft vead South Wett.

NT ROD U G'T.Y O.N.

prok many years it was the opinion of all ranks of

people, that the Hudfon’s Bay Company were averfe to
making difcoveries of every kind; and being content
with the profits of their fmall capital, as it was then
called, did not want to increafe their trade: What
might have been the ideas of former members of the Com-
pany refpecting the firft part of thefe charges I cannot fay,
but I am well afflured that they, as well as the prefent
members, have always been ready to embrace every plau-
fible plan for extending the trade. Asa proof of this
affertion, I need only mention the vaft fums of money
which they have expended at different times in endeavour-
ing to eftablifh fifheries, though without fuccefs: and
the following Journey, together with the various attempts
made by Bean, Chriftopher, Johnfton, and Duncan, to
find a North Weft paffage, are recent proofs that the pre-
fent members are as defirous of roe difcoveries, as they
are of extending their trade.

That air of myftery, and affectation of fecrecy, perhaps,
which formerly attended fome of the Company’s proceed~-
ings in the Bay, might give rife to thofe conje@ures; and
the unfounded affertions and unjuft afperfions of Dobbs,

c Eilis,

XXL

INTRODUCTION,

Ellis, Robfon, Dragge, and the American Traveller, the
only Authors that have written on Hudfon’s Bay, and who
have all, from motives of intereft or revenge, taken a
particular pleafure in arraigning the condué of the Com-
pany, without having any real knowledge of their pro-
ceedings, or any experience in their fervice, on which to
found their charges, muft have contributed to confirm the
public in that opinion. Moft of thofe Writers, however,

advance fuch notorious abfurdities, that none except thei
who are already prejudiced againft the Company can give
them credit *.

Robfon, from his fix years refidence in Hudfon’s Bay and
in the Company’s fervice, might naturally have been fup-
pofed to know fomething of the climate and foil immediately
round the Fa@ories at which he refided;_ but the whole of
his book is evidently written with prejudice, and dictated
by a fpirit of revenge, becaufe his romantic and incon-
fiftent {chemes were rejected by the Company. Befides,
it is well known that Robfon was no more than a tool in.

the hand of Mr. Dobbs.

The American Traveller, though a more elegant writer,
has ftill lefs claim to our indulgence, as his affertions are

* Since the above was written, a Mr. Umfreville has publifhed an account
of Hudfon’s Bay, with the fame ill-nature as the former Authors; and for no_
other reafon than that of being difappointed in fucceeding to a command in
the Bay, though there was no vacancy for him.

a greater

LNURODUSTNON

a greater tax on our credulity. His faying that he dif-
covered feveral large lumps of the fineft virgin copper *, is
fuch a palpable falfehood that it needs no refutation. No
man, either Englifh or Indian, ever found a bit of copper
in that country to the South of the feventy-firft degree of

latitude, unlefs it had been accidentally dropped by fome ©

of the far Northern Indians in their way to the Com-
pany's Factory.

The natives who range over, rather than inhabit, the
large track of land which lies to the North of Churchill
River, having repeatedly brought famples of copper to the
Company’s Factory, many of our people conjectured that
it was found not far from our fettlements ; and as the In-
dians informed them that the mines were not very diftant
from a large river, it was generally fuppofed that this river
muft empty itfelf into Hudfon’s Bay; as they could by
no means think that any fet of people, however wander-

ing their manner of life might be, could ever traverfe fo

large a track of country as to pafs the Northern boundary
of that Bay, and particularly without the affiftance of
water-carriage. The following Journal, however, will
fhew how much thofe people have been miftaken, and
prove alfo the improbability of putting their favourite
fcheme of mining into practice.

* American Traveller, page 23.

¢2 The

XX

XXIV

CNTR ODUCT VON .

The accounts of this grand River, which fome have
turned into a Strait, together with the famples of copper,
were brought to the Company’s Factory at Churchill River
immediately after its firft eftablifhment, in the year one
thoufand feven hundred and fifteen ; and it does not ap-
pear that any attempts were made to difcover either the
river or mines till the year one thoufand feven hundred and
nineteen, when the Company fitted out a fhip, called the
Albany Frigate, Captain George Barlow *, and a floop,

called

- * Captain Barlow was Governor at Albany Fort when the French went
over land from Canada to befiege it in 1704. - The Canadians and their In-
dian guides lurked in the neighbourhood of Albany for feveral days before
they made the attack, and killed many of the cattle that were grazing in the
marfhes. A. faithful Home-Indian, who was on a hunting excurfion, difco-
vering thofe ftrangers, and fuppofing them to be enemies, immediately returned
to the Fort, and informed the Governor of the circumftance, who gave little
credit to it. However, every meafure was taken for the defence of the Fort,
and orders were given to the Mafter of a floop that lay at fome diftance, to
come to the Fort with all poffible expedition on hearing a gun fired.

Accordingly, in the middle of the night, or rather in the morning, the
French came before the Fort, marched up to the gate, and demanded en-
trance. Mr. Barlow, who was then on the watch, told them, that the Governor
was afleep, but he would get the keys immediately. The French hearing this,
expected no oppofition, and flocked up to the gate as clofe as they could ftand.
Barlow took the advantage of this opportunity, and inftead of opening the
gate, only opened two port holes, where two fix-pounders ftood loaded with
grape fhot, which were inftantly fired. This difcharge killed great numbers of
the French, and among them the Commander, who was an Irifhman.

Such an unexpected reception made the remainder retire with great preci-
pitation; and the Mafter of the floop hearing the guns, made the beft of his
way

INTRODUCTION.

called the Difcovery, Captain David Vaughan. The fole
command of this expedition, however, was given to Mr-
James Knight, a man of great experience in the Com-
pany’s fervice, who had been many years Governor at
the different Faétories in the Bay, and who had made

the firft fettlement at Churchill River. Notwithftanding

the experience Mr. Knight might have had of the Com-
pany’s bufinefs, and his knowledge of thofe parts of the
Bay where he had refided, it cannot be fuppofed he
was well acquainted with the nature of the bufinefs in
which he then engaged, having nothing to dire& him but
the flender and imperfect accounts which he had received
from the Indians, who at that time were little known,

and lefs underftood.

way up to the Fort; but fome of the French who lay concealed under the
banks of the river killed him, and all the boat’s crew.

The French retired from this place with reluétance; for fome of them were

heard fhooting in the neighbourhood of the Fort ten days after they were |

repulfed; and one man in particular walked up and down the platform leading
from the gate of the Fort to the Launch for a whole day. Mr. Fullarton,
who was then Governor at Albany, fpoke to him in French, and offered him
kind quarters if he chofe to accept them; but to thofe propofals he made
no reply, and only fhook his head. Mr. Fullarton then told him, that unlefs
he would refign himfelf up as a prifoner, he would moft affuredly fhoot him ;
on which the man advanced nearer the Fort, and Mr. Fullarton thot him-out
of his chamber window. Perhaps the hardfhips this poor man expeéted to
encounter in his return to Canada, made him prefer death; but his refufing to
receive quarter from fo humane and generous an enemy as the Englifh, is
aftonifhing. = A ttaRtiph fei: |

, 4 ) Thofe

EXV

NXVL

INTRODUCTAO NH.

Thofe difadvantages, added to his advanced ape, he

being then near eighty, by no means difcouraged this bold

adventurer; who was fo prepofleffed of his fuccefs, and
of the great advantage that would arife from his difco-
veries, that he procured, and took with him, fome large
iron-bound chefts, to hold gold duft and other valuables,
which he fondly flattered himfelf were to be found in
thofe parts. } ) |

The firft paragraph of the Company’s Orders to Mr,
Knight on this occafion appears to be as follows:

‘© To Captain Jamis Knicur.

6 TR 4th June, 1719.
‘* From the experience we have had of your abilities
‘¢ in the management of our affairs, we have, upon your.
‘¢ application to us, fitted out the Albany frigate, Captain
‘¢ George Barlow, and the Difcovery, Captain David
‘© Vaughan Commander, upon a difcovery to the North-
‘© ward; and to that end have given you power and au-
‘© thority to act and do all things relating to the faid
“< voyage, the navigation of the faid fhip and floop only
<¢ excepted ; and have given orders and inftructions to our
“© faid Commanders for that purpofe,

«You are, with the firft opportunity of aad and
weather, to depart from Gravefend on your intended.

e
~

* voyage,

TN CRO D UTI ON,

“ voyage, and by God’s permiflion, to find out the Straits
‘*¢ of Anian, in order to difcover gold and other valuable
‘© commodities to the Northward, Gc. &c.” —

Mr. Knight foon left Gravefend, and proceeded on his
voyage ; but the fhip not returning to England that year, as
was expected, it was judged that fhe had wintered in Hud-
fon’s Bay; and having on boarda good ftock of provifions, a
houfe in frame, together with all neceffary mechanics, and

a great affortment of trading goods, little or no thoughts -

were entertained of their not being in fafety: but as
neither fhip nor floop returned to England in the follow-
ing year, (one thoufand feven hundred and twenty,) the
Company were much alarmed for their welfare; and, by
their fhip which went to Churchill in the year one thoufand
feven hundred and twenty-one, they fent orders for a
floop called the Whale-Bone, John Scroggs Mafter, to go
in fearch of them; but the fhip not arriving in Churchill
till Jate in the year, thofe orders could not m put in exe-

cution till the Summer following (one thoufand feven hun+

dred and twenty-two).

The North Weft coaft of Hudfon’s Bay being little
known in thofe days, and Mr. Scroggs finding himfelf
greatly embarrafled with fhoals and rocks, returned to
Prince of Wales’s Fort without making any certain difco-
very refpecting the above fhip or floop; for all the marks
he faw among the Efquimaux at Whale Cove {carcely

5 amounted

XXVil

SXVIL

IN TR OOD CT 1G,h.

amounted to the fpoils which might have been made from
a trifling accident, and confequently could not be con-
fidered as figns of a total fhipwreck.

The ftrong opinion which then prevailed in Europe re- |
{pecting the probability of a North Weft paflage. by the
way of Hudion’s Bay, made many conjecture that Mefirs.
Knight and Barlow had found that paflage, and had gone
through it into the South Sea, by the way of Cali-
fornia. . Many years elapfed without any other convincing»
proof occurring to the contrary, except that Middleton, -
Ellis, Bean, Chriftopher, and Johnfton, had_not been able
to find any fuch paflage. And notwithftanding A floop
was annually fent to the Northward on difcovery, and to
trade with the Efquimaux, it was the Summer of one
thoufand feven hundred and fixty-feven, before we had
pofitive proofs that poor Mr. Knight and Carel Barlow
had been loft i in Hudfon’s Bay.

The Company were now carrying on a black whale
fifhery, and Marble Iland was made the place of rendez—
vous, not only on account of the commodioufnefs of the
harbour, but becaufe it had been obferved that the whales
were more plentiful about that ifland than on any
other part of the coaft. This being the cafe, the beats,
when on the look-out for fifh, had frequent occafion to
row clofe to the ifland, by which means they difcovered
a new harbour near the Eaft end of it, at the head

. | | ke

Cys
We

INTRODOCTION.

of which they found guns, anchors, cables, bricks, a
{mith’s anvil, and many other articles, which the hand of
time had not defaced, and which being of no ule to
the natives, or too Hoy to be removed by them, had not
been taken from the place in which they were originally
laid. The remains of the houfe, though pulled to pieces
by the Efquimaux for the wood and iron, are yet very plain
to be feen, as alfo the hulls, or more properly fpeaking, the
bottoms of the fhip and floop, which lie funk in about
five fathoms water, toward the head of the harbour.
The figure-head of the fhip, and alfo the guns, &c. were
fent home to the Company, and are certain proofs that
Mefits. Knight and Barlow had been loft on that inhofpi-
table ifland, where neither ftick nor ftump was to be feen,
and which liés near fixteen miles from the main land.
Indeed the main is little better, being a jumble of barren
hills and rocks, deftitute of every kind of herbage except
mofs and grafs; and at that part, the woods are feveral
hundreds of miles from the fea-fade.

In the Summer of one thoufand feven hundred and
fixty-nine, while we were profecuting the fifhery, we faw
feveral Ef{quimaux at this new harbour; and perceiving
that one or two of them were greatly advanced in years,
our curlofity was excited to afk them fome queftions con-
cerning the above fhip and floop, which we were the better
enabled to do by the affiftance of an Efquimaux, who
' was then in the Company’s fervice as a linguift, and an-
nually failed 1 in one of their veflels in that character. The

d account

XXIN

INT BOD UC TTLON,

account which we received from them was full, clear,
and unreferved, and the fum of it was to the following
purport :

When the veffels arrived at this place (Marble Ifland)
it was very late in the Fall, and in getting them into the
harbour, the largeft received much damage; but on being
fairly in, the Englifh began to build the houfe, their num-
ber at that time feeming to be about fifty. As foon as the
ice permitted, in the following Summer, (one thoufand
feven hundred and twenty,) the Ef{quimaux paid them ano-
ther vifit, by which time the number of the Englith was
greatly reduced, and thofe that were living feemed very

unhealthy. © According to the account given by the Efqui-

maux they were then very bufily employed, but about
what they could not eafily defcribe, probably in length-
ening. the long-boat ; for at a little diftance from the houfe -
there is now lying a great quantity of oak chips, which
have been moft affuredly made by carpenters.

Sicknefs and famine oecafioned fuch havock among the
Englifh, that by the fetting in of the fecond Winter their
number was reduced to twenty. That Winter (one thou-
fand feven hundred and twenty) fome of the Efquimaux
took up their abode on the oppofite fide of the harbour

to that on which the Englifh had built their houfes *, and
frequently

* JT have feen the remains of thofe houfes feveral times; they are on the
Weft fide of the harbour, and in all probability will be difcernible for many years
to come,

ft

INTRODUCTION.

frequently fupplied them with fuch provifions as they
had, which chiefly confifted of whale’s blubber and feal’s
flefh and train oil. When the Spring advanced, the Ef
quimaux went to the continent, and on their viliting
Marble [land again, in the Summer of one thoufand feven
hundred and twenty-one, they only found five of the
Eneglifh alive, and thofe were in fuch diftrefs for pro-
vifions that they eagerly eat the feal’s flefh and whale’s
blubber quite raw, as they purchafed it from the natives.

This difordered them fo much, that three of them died in

a few days, and the other two, though very weak, made
a fhift tobury them. Thofe two furvived many days after
the reft, and frequently went to the top of an adjacent rock,
and earneftly looked to the South and Eaift, as if in expeéta-
tion of fome veflels coming to their relief. After continu-
ing there a confiderable time together, and nothing ap-
pearing in fight, they fat down clofe together, and wept
bitterly. At length one of the two died, and the other’s
firength was fo far exhaufted, that he fell down and died

alfo, in attempting to dig a grave for his companion. The

It is rather furprifing, that neither Middleton, Ellis, Chriftopher, Johnfton,
nor Garbet, who have all of them been at Marble Ifland, and fome of them
often, ever difcovered this harbour; particularly the laft-mentioned gentleman,
who actually failed quite round the ifland in a very fine pleafant day in the Sum-
mer of 1766. But this difcovery was referved for a Mr. Jofeph Stephens! a
man of the leaft merit I ever knew, though he then had the command of a
veffel called the Succefs, employed in the whale-fifhery; and in the year 1769,
had the command of the Charlotte given to him, a fine brig of one hundred
tons; when I was his mate.

d 2 ie {culls

KEKE

XXX

INTRODUCTION.

{culls and other large bones of thofe two men are tow
lying above-ground clofe to the houfe. The longeft liver
was, according to the Ef{quimaux account, always employed
in working of iron into implements for them; probably
he was the armourer, or {mith.

Some Northern Indians who came to trade at Prince
of Wales’s Fort in the Spring of the year one thoufand
feven hundred and fixty-eight, brought farther accounts
of the grand river, as it was called, and alfo feveral pieces
of ‘copper, as famples of the produce of the mine near
it; which determined Mr. Norton, who was then Go-
vernor at Churchill, to reprefent it to the Company as an
affair worthy of their attention; and as he went that year
to England, he had an opportunity of laying all the in-
formation he had received before the Board, with his opi-
nion thereon, and the plan which he thought moft likely
to fucceed in the difcovery of thofe mines. In confe-
quence of Mr. Norton’s reprefentations, the Committee re-
folved to fend an intelligent perfon by land to obferve
the longitude and latitude of the river’s mouth, to make
a chart of the country he might walk through, with fuch
remarks as occurred to him during the Journey; when I
was pitched on as a proper perfon to conduct the expe-
dition. By the fhip that went to Churchill in the Sum-
mer of one thoufand feven hundred and fixty-nine, the
Company fent out fome aftronomical inftruments, very
portable, and fit for fuch obfervations as they required me

to

INTRODUCTION.

to make, and at the fame time requefted me to undertake
the Journey, promifing to allow me at my return, a gra-
tuity proportionable to the trouble and fatigue I might
undergo in the expedition *..

I did

'* The conditions offered me om this: occafion:cannot be better expreffed:
than in the Company’s own words, which I have tranfcribed from their private
letter to me, dated 25th May 1769.

< From the goed opinion we entertain of you, and Mr. Norton’s recont-
mendation; we have agreed to raife your wages to £ per annum for
“© two years, and have placed you in our Council at-Prince of Wales’s Fort ;
« and we fhould have been ready to advance you to the command of the
« Charlotte, according to your requeft, if a matter of more immediate confe-.
«° quence had not intervened:

€

3

ry

« Mr. Norton has propofed an inland Journey, far to the North of Church-

«¢ ill, to promote an extenfion of our trade, as well as for the difcovery of

« a North Weft Paflage, Copper Mines, &c.; and as an undertaking of this:
< nature requires. the attention of a perfon capable of taking an.obfervation.
for determining the longitude and latitude, and alfo diitances, and the courfe
of rivers and their depths, we have fixed upon you (efpecially as it is re-
' prefented to us to be your own inclination) to conduct this Journey, with.
‘ proper affiftants.

nA
na

nA
an

An
a

Cal
“n

«© We therefore hope you will fecond our expectations in readily perform-.
<¢ ing this fervice, and upon your return we fhall willingly make you any ac-
~knowledement. fuitable to your trouble therein.

nr
Ca

«¢ We highly approve of your going in the Speedwell, to affift on the whale-
fifhery laft year, and heartily wifh you health and fuccefs-in the prefent ex-
£ pedition..

a
na

“~

We remain your loving Friends,.

< Brpve Laxz, Dep. Gov. “c James WINTER Lake.
«© Joun AntTHony Merte, ‘c FIERMAN BERENS.
“« Roperr Merry. <¢ JosepH SPuURREL.
« SAMUEL WEGG, <¢ James Fitz GERALD.”

2
The

SEXP

.
al

INTRODUCTION.

T did not hefitate to comply with the requeft. of the

Company, and in the November following, when fome

Northern Indians came to trade, Mr. Norton, who was then
returned to the command of Prince of Wales’s Fort, en-
gaged fuch of them for my guides as he thought were moft
likely to anfwer the purpofe ; but none of ates had been
at this grand river. I was fitted out with every thing
thought neceflary, and with ammunition to ferve two
years. I was to be accompanied by two of the Company’s
fervants, two of the Home-guard * (Southern) Indians,

The Company had no fooner perufed my Journals and Charts, than they
ordered a handfome fum to be placed to the credit of my account; and in the
two firft paragraphs of their letter to me, dated 12th May 1773, they ex-
prefs themfelves i in the following wards :

“© Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE,

aS ARS
« Your letter of the 28th Auguft laft gave us the agreeable pleafure to hear
‘ of your fafe return to our Factory. Your Journal, and the two charts you
‘ fent, fufficiently convinces us of your very judicious remarks.

nN

«© We have maturely confidered your great affiduity in the various acci-
«¢ dents which occurred in your feveral Journies. We hereby return you our
<< orateful thanks; and to manifeft our obligation we have confented to allow
«* you a gratuity of £ . for thofe fervices.”

Asa farther proof of the Company’s being perfectly fatisfied with my con-
duct while on that Journey, the Committee unanimoufly appointed me Chief

of Prince of Wales’s Fort in the Summer of 1775; and Mr. Bibye Lake, who

was then Governor, and feveral others of the Committee, honoured me with
a regular correfpondence as long as they lived.

* By the Home-guard Indians we are to underftand certain of the natives
who are immediately employed under the protection of the Company’s fervants,
refide on the plantation, and are employed in hunting for the Factory.

8 and

INTRODUCTION.

and a fufficient number of Northern Indians to carry
and haul my baggage, provide for me, &c. But for the
better ftating this arrangement, it will not be improper to
infert my Inftructions, which, with fome occafional re-
marks thereon, will throw much light on the following
Journal, and be the beft method of proving how far thofe
orders have been complied. with, as well as fhew my rea-
fons for negleGiing fome parts as unneceflary, and the im-
poflibility of putting other parts of them in execution..

« ORDERS and INSTRUCTIONS for Mr.

“ SaMUEL HEARNE, going om an Expedition by

“ Land towards the Latitude 70° North, in

“ order to gain a Knowledge of the Northern’
“¢ Indians Country, &c. on Behalf of the Ho-
*< nourable Eudfon’s Bay Company, in the Year

ce 1769.

ee Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE,,
“STR,

c¢ Wuereas the Honourable Hudfon’s Bay Company

«¢ have been informed by the report from Indians;, that

“ there is a great probability of confiderable advan-.
“‘ tages to be expected from a better knowledge of their

“¢ country by us, than what hitherto has been obtained3.

¢ and as it is the Company's earneft defire to embrace:
ecNevery circumftance that may tend to the benefit of the:
«¢ faid Company, or the Nation at large, they have re-

*¢ quefted you to condué this Tepe GR ; and. as you:

.s have

KXXV-

a

nr

ce

~& ‘

tN T R'ODW Cr OFN.

have readily confented to undertake the prefent Journey,

you are hereby defired to proceed as foon as poflible,
with William Ifbefter failor, and Thomas Merriman

landiman, as companions, they both being willing to
accompany you; alfo two of the Home-guard Southern
Indians, who are to attend and aflift you during the
Journey ; and Captain Chawchinahaw, his Lieutenant
Nabyah, and fix or eight of the beft Northern Indians
we can procure, with a {mall part of their families, are
to conduct you, provide: for you, and affift you and
your companions in every thing that lays in their power,
having particular orders fo to do.

‘© adly, Whereas you and your companions are well
fitted-out with every thing we think neceffary, as alfo
a fample of light trading goods; thefe you are to dif-
pofe of by way of prefents (and not by way of trade)
to fuch far-off Indians as you may meet with, and to
{moke your Calimut * of Peace with their leaders, in
order to eftablith a friendfhip with them. You are alfo
to perfuade them as much as poffible from going to war
with each other, to encourage them to exert themfelves
in procuring furrs and other articles for trade, and to
affure them of good payment for them at the Com-
pany's Factory.

‘< It is fincerely recommended to you and your compa-
nions to treat the natives with civility, foas not to give

* ‘The Calimut is a long ornamented ftem of a pipe, much in ufe among all
the tribes of Indians who know the ufe of tobacco. Its particularly ufed in

all cafes of ceremony, either in making war or peace; at all public entertain-
ments, orations, &c.

‘¢ them

e
~

*~
nn

PNOTR O DU @ TLON.

them any room for complaint or difguft, as they have
{trict orders not to give you the leaft offence, but are to
aid and affift you in any matter you may requeft of them
for the benefit of the undertaking.

‘© If any Indians you may meet, that are coming to the
Fort, fhould be willing to truft you with either food or
clothing, make your agreement for thofe commodities,
and by them fend me a letter, fpecifying the quantity

of each article, and they fhall be paid according to—

your agreement. And, according to the Company’s or-
ders, you are to correipond with me, or the Chief at
Prince of Wales’s Fort tor the time being, at all oppor-
tunities: And as you have mathematical inftruments
with you, you are to fend me, or the Chief for the
time being, an account of what latitude and longitude
you may be in at fuch and fuch periods, together with
the heads of your proceedings; which accounts are to be
remitted to the Company by the return of their fhips *.

‘“¢ 3dly, The Indians who are now appointed your
guides, are to conduct you to the borders of the Atha~
pufcow + Indians country, where Captain Matonabbee

* No convenient opportunity offered during my laft Journey, except one,

on the 22d March 1771; and as nothing material had happened during that

part of my Journey, I thought there was not any neceffity for fending an ex-

tract of my Journal; I therefore only fent a Letter to the Governor, informing
him of my fituation with refpect to latitud@é and longitude, and fome account

of

the ufage which I received from the natives, &c.
+ By miftake in my former Journal and Draft called Arathapefcow.

e ¢¢ is

XXKVi

SXXVIIL

ce

“~.
_

a)
nr

wr
nr

ww
w~

“a Cl ww eo am
wo nw wn ra n

~
an

INTRODUCTION,

is to meet you* in the Spring of one thoufand feven
hundred and {feventy, in order to condud you to a river
reprefented by the Indians to abound with copper ore,
animals of the furr kind, &’c. and which is faid to be
fo far to the Northward, that in the middle of the
Summer the Sun does not fet, and is fuppofed by the
Indians to empty itfelf into fome ocean. This river,.
which is called by the Northern Indians Neetha-fan-

fan-dazey, or the Far Of Metal River, you are, if

poflible, to trace to the mouth, and there determine —
the latitude and longitude as near as you can; but
more particularly fo if you find it navigable, and that,
a fettlement can be made there with any degree of
fafety, or benefit to the Company.

‘© Be careful to obferve what mines are near the river,
what water there is at the river’s mouth, how far the
woods are from the fea-fide, the courfe of the river,
the nature of the foil, and the produtions of it; and
make any other remarks that you may think will be
either neceflary or, fatisfactory. And if the faid river
be likely to be of any utility, take poffeflion of it on
behalf of the Hudfon’s Bay Company, by cutting your

* This was barely probable, as Matonabbee at that time had not any in-

formation of this Journey being fet on foot, much defs had he received orders
to join me at the place and time here appointed; and had we accidentally met,

he

would by no means have undertaken the Journey without firft going to the

Factory, and there making his agreement with the Governor; for no Indian is
fond of performing any particular fervice for the Englifh, without’ firt knowing —
what is to be his reward. At the fame time, had I taken that rout on my out-
fet, it would have carried me fome hundreds of miles out of my road. See
may Track on the Map in the Winter 1770, and the Spring 1771.

“* name

INTRODUCTION.

“* name on fome of the rocks, as alfo the date of the
“¢ year, month, &¢, *

‘© When you attempt to trace this or any other river,
“¢ be careful that the Indians are furnifhed with a fufficient
** number of canoes for trying the depth of water, the
*¢ ftrength of the current, &c. If by any unforefeen
*¢ accident or difafter you fhould not be able to reach.the
‘¢ before-mentioned river, it is earneftly recommended to
‘¢ you, if poflible, to know the event of Wager Strait +;

«¢ for it is reprefented by the laft difcoverers to terminate —

S¢ in fmall rivers and lakes. See how far the woods are
** from the navigable parts of it; and whether a fettle-
** ment could with any propriety be made there. If this
** fhould prove unworthy of notice, you are to take the
“¢ fame method with Baker’s Lake, which is the head of

* I was not provided with inftruments for cutting on ftone; but for form-
fake, I cut my name, date of the year, &c. on a piece of board that had
been one of the Indian’s targets, and placed it in a heap of ftones on a {mall
eminence near the entrance of the river, on the South fide.

+ There is certainly no harm in making out all Inftructions in the fulleft
‘manner, yet it muft be allowed that thofe two parts might have been omitted
with great propriety; for as neither Middleton, Ellis, nor Chriftopher were
able to penetrate far enough up thofe inlets to difcover any kind of herbage
‘except mofs and grafs, much le{s woods, it was not likely thofe parts were {fo
materially altered for the better fince their times, as to make it worth my
while to attempt a farther difeovery of them; and efpecially as I had an op-
portunity, during my fecond Journey, of proving that the woods do not reach
the fea-coaft by fome hundreds of miles in the parallel of Chefterfield’s Inlet.
And as the edge of the woods to the Northward always tends to the Weftward,
the diftance muft be greatly increafed in the latitude of Wager Strait. Thofe
parts have long fince been vifited by the Company’s fervants, and are within
the known limits of their Charter; confequently require no other form of
poffeffion.
© 2° __. © Bowden’s

KKK

xT

INTRODUCTION

‘* Bowden’s or Chefterfield’s Inlet*; as alfo. with any
‘¢ other rivers you may meet with ; ance) likely to be of
‘¢ any utility, you are to take sonchon of them, as be-
‘«< fore mentioned, on the behalf of the Honourable Hud-
‘¢ fon’s Bay Company. ‘The draft of Bowden’s Inlet and
‘* Wager Strait I fend with you, that you may have a better
“© idea of thofe places, in cafe of your vifiting them.

“< qthly, Another material point which is sesouimended

“ to you, is to find out, if you can, either by your own

‘¢ travels, or by information from the Indians, whether
“ there is a paflage through this continent +. It will be

* See the preceding Note.

+ The Continent of America is’ much wider than many people imagine,
particularly Robfon, who thought that the Pacific Ocean was but a few days
journey from the Weft coaft of imine Bay. ‘This, however, is fo far from
being the cafe, that when I was at my greateft Weftern diftance, upward of
five hundred miles from Prince of Wales’s Fort, the natives, my guides,
well knew that many tribes of Indians lay to the Welt of us, and they knew
no end to the land in that direction; nor have I met with any Indians, either
Northern or Southern, that ever had feen the fea to the Weftward. It is,
indeed, well known to the intelligent and well-informed part of the Com-
pany’s fervants, that an extenfive and numerous tribe of Indians, called
E-arch-e-thinnews, whofe country lies far Weft of any of the Company’s or
Canadian fettlements, muft have traffic with the Spaniards on the Weft fide of
the Continent; becaufe fome of the Indians who formerly traded to York Fort,
when at war with thofe people, frequently found faddles, bridles, mufkets,
and many other articles, in their poffeflion, which were undoubtedly of Spanifh
manufactory.

I have feen feveral Indians who have been fo far Weft as to crofs the top of
that immenfe chain of mountains which run from North to South of the con-
tinent of America. Beyond thofe mountains all rivers run to the Weftward.
J muft here obferve, that all the Indians I ever heard relate their excurfions in
that country, had invariably got fo far tothe South, that they did not experi-
ence any Winter, nor the leaft appearance of either froft or fhow, though

“fometimes they have been abfent eighteen months, or two years.

oe very

w~
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c¢

PNCTIR: OD Ul@)yT1 ON:

very ufeful to clear up this point, if poffible, in order to
prevent farther doubts from arifing hereafter refpecting
a paffage out of Hudfon’s Bay * into the Weftern Ocean,
as hath lately been reprefented by the American Tra-

_veller. The particulars of thofe remarks you are to
*‘ infert in your Journal, to be remitted home to the

Company.

‘¢ Tf you fhould want any fupplies of ammunition, or
other neceffaries, difpatch fome trufty Indians to the

Fort with a letter, fpecifying the quantity of each

article, and appoint a place for the faid Indians to meet
you again. .

“© When on your return, if at a proper time of the
year, and you fhould be near any of the harbours that
are frequented by the brigantine Charlotte, or the floop
Churchill, during their voyage to the Northward, and
you fhould te to return in one of them, you are de-
fired to make frequent f{mokes as you approach thofe
harbours, and they will endeavour to receive you by
making fmokes in anfwer to yours; and as one thou-

fand feven hundred and feventy-one will probably be the |

year in which you will return, theMafters of thofe veflels
at that period fhall have particular orders on that head.

* As to a paflage through the continent of America by the way of Hudfon’s

Bay, it has fo long been exploded, notwithftanding what Mr. Ellis has urged
in its favour, and rhe place it has found in the vifionary Map of the American
Traveller, that any comment on it would be quite unneceflary. My latitude
only will be a fufficient proof that no fuch paffage is in exiftence. .

€¢ It

xl

xii

4

INTRODUCTION.

<< It will be pleafing to hear by the firft opportunity, in
‘¢ what latitude and longitude you meet the Leader Ma-

“* tonabbee, and how far he thinks it is to the Copper-

‘¢ mine River, as alfo the probable time it may take be-
*< fore you can return, But in cafe any thing fhould pre-
vent the faid Leader from joining you, according to
expectation, you are then to procure the beft Indians
‘¢ you can for your guides, and either add to, or diminifh,
your number, as you may from time to time think moft
*¢ neceffary for the good of the expedition.

** So I conclude, wifhing you and your companions
‘‘ a continuance of health, together with a profperous
Journey, and a happy return in fafety. Amen.

« MOSES NORTON, Governor.

« Dated at Prince of Wales’s Fort, Churchill
“ River, Hudfon’s Bay, North America,
*¢ November 6th, 1769.”

Oo

Ifbefter and Merriman, mentioned in my Inftrudtions,
a&tually accompanied me during my firft fhort attempt ;
but the Indians knowing them to be but common men,
ufed them fo indifferently, particularly in fcarce times,
that I was under fome apprehenfions of their being ftarved
to death, and I thought myfelf exceedingly happy when I
got them fafe back to the Fadtory. This extraordinary
behaviour of the Indians made me determine not to take
any Europeans with me on my two laft expeditions.

‘With

/

INTRODUCTION.
With regard to that part of my Inftructions which df-

reéts me to obferve the nature of the foil, the productions

thereof, &c. it muft be obferved, that during the whole
time of my abfence from the Fort, I was invariably con-

fined: to ftony hills and barren plains all the Summer, and
before we approached the woods in the Fall of the year,.

the ground was always covered with {now toa confiderable

depth ; fo that I never had an opportunity of feeing any:
of the {mall plants and fhrubs to the Weftward. But
from appearances, and the flow and dwarfy growth of the.
woods, &c. (except in the Athapufcowcountry,) there is
undoubtedly a greater fcarcity of vegetable productions
than at the Company’s moft Northern fettlement ; and to.
the Eaftward of the woods, on the barren.grounds, whe-

ther hills or vallies, there is a total. want of herbage, ex-

cept mofs, on which the deer feed.; a few dwarf willows:
ereep among the mofs;. fome wifh-a-capucca and a little:
grafs may be feen here and there, but the latter is {carcely:

fufficient to ferve the geefe and other birds of paflage

during their fhort ftay in thofe parts, though they are al-.
ways in-a {tate of migration, except when they are breeding.

and in a moulting ftate.

In confequence of my complying with the Company’s:
requeft, and undertaking this. Journey, it is natural.to fup--
pofe that every neceflary arrangement was made for the.

eafier keeping of my reckoning, ,&c. under the many in-

conveniencies I muft be unavoidably obliged to: labour’

in fuch an expedition.. I drew a Map ona large fkin
of parchment, that contained. twelve. degrees. of latitude

5 North,,

xiii

Rie

EN:T RO De Rh UON

North, and thirty degrees of longitude Weft, of Churchill
Factory, and fketched all the Weft coaft of the Bay on it,
but left the interior parts blank, to be filled up during my
Journey. J alfo prepared detached pieces on a much larger
{cale for every degree of latitude-and longitude contained:
in the large Map. On thofe detached pieces I pricked off
my daily courfes and diftance, and entercd all lakes and
rivers, &c, that I met with; endeavouring, by a ftrid
enquiry of the natives, to find out the communication of
one river with another, as alfo their connections with the
many lakes with which that country abounds: and when
opportunity offered, having corrected them by obferva-
tions, I entered them in the general Map. ‘Thefe and fe-
veral other neceflary preparations, for the eafiecr, readier,
and more correctly keeping my Journal and Chart, were
alfo adopted; but as to myfelf, little was required to be
done, as the nature of travelling long journies in thofe
countries will never admit of carrying even the moft com-
mon article of clothing ; fo that the traveller is obliged
to depend on the country he pafles through, for that article,
as well as for provifions. Ammunition, ufeful iron-work,
fome tobacco, a few knives, and other indifpenfable ar-
ticles, make a fufficient load for any one to carry that is
going a journey likely to Jaft twenty months, or two years.
As that was the cafe, I only took the fhirt and clothes I
then had on, one fpare coat, a pair of drawers, and as
much cloth as would make me two or three pair of Indian
ftockings, which, together with a blanket for bedding,
compofed the whole of my ftock of clothing.

A FOUR

A |

Plale I y j Zo face Page 1

T Saunders seulp®

ANORTH WES” ViEw. Na veneer ; |
ME WEST VIEW of PRINCE of WALES'S FORT inJHUD s ON's BAY, NORTE AM ERICA, by SAMY HEARNE, 1777.

London Published JanF 121799;

A
ee ee Re ee oy ®:

TO) PELE

NORTHERN OCEAN.

pie UN OID Enid,

Tranfactions from my leaving Prince of Wales’s Fort on
my firft expedition, till our arrival there again.

Set off from the Fort.—Arrive at Po-co-ree-kif-co River.—-One of the
Northern Indians defert.—Crofs Seal River, and walk on the barren
grounds.—Receive wrong information concerning the diftance of the
qoods.—Weather begins to be very cold, provifions all expended, and
nothing to be got.—Strike to the Weftward, arrive at the woods, and
Rill three deer.—Set forward in the North Weft quarter, fee the tracks
of mufk-oxen and deer, but killed none-—Very fhort of provifions.—
Chawchinahaw wants us to return—Neither he nor his crew con-
tribute to our maintenance.—He influences feveral of the Indians to
defert.—Chawchinahaw and all bis crew leave us.—Begin our return
to the fattory; kill a few partridges, the firfti meal we had had for
feveral days —Villany of one of the home Indians and his wife, who
qas a Northern Indian woman.— Arrive at Seal River, kill two deer;
pariridges plenty —Mect a firange Northern Indian, accompany hum
to bis tent, ufage received there; my Indians affift in killing fome
beaver.—Proceed toward home, and arrive at the Fort.

yAVING made every neceflary arrangement for my de- 1769.
| & parture on the fixth of November, I took leave of the wou
Beeerior, and my other friends, at Prince of Wales’s Fort, %*h

and began my journey, under the falute of feven cannon.
| The

v4

17609.

| ee)
November.

Sth.

oth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

The weather at that time being very mild, made it but
indifferent hauling*, and all my crew being heavy laden,
occafioned us to make but fhort days journeys; how-
ever, on the eighth, we crofled the North branch of
Po-co-ree-kif-co River, and that night put up in a {mail
tuft of woods, which is between it and Seal River. In
the night, one of the Northern Indians deferted; and as
all the reft of my crew were heavy laden, I was under
the neceflity.of hauling the fledge he had left, which
however was not very heavy, as it fcarcely exceeded fixty
pounds.

The weather ftill continued very fine and pleafant: we
dire&ted our courfe to the Weft North Weft, and early
in the day croffed Seal River. In the courfe of this.
day’s journey we met feveral Northern Indians, who were
going to the factory with furs and venifon ;, and as we had
not killed any deer from our leaving the Fort, I got feveral
joints of venifon from thofe ftrangers, and gave them a
note on the Governor for payment, which feemed per-
fectly agreeable to all parties..

When on the North Weft fide of Seal River, I afked'
Captain Chawchinahaw the diftance, and probable time
it would take, before we could reach the main woods ;
which he affured me would not exceed four or five dea
journey. This put both me and my companions in good

* The colder the weather is, the eafier the fledges flide over the fnow..

{pirits,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

{pirits, and we continued our courfe between the Weft
by North and North Weft, in daily expeétation of arriving
at thofe woods, which we were told would furnifh us
with every thing the country affords. Thefe accounts

were fo far from being true, that after we had walked

double the time here mentioned, no figns of woods were
to be feen in the direction we were then fteering; but
we had frequently feen the looming of Sos to the

ae Welt.

The cold being now very intenfe, our {mall ftock of
-Englifh provifions all expended, and not the leaft thing
to be got on the bleak hills we had for fome time been

walking on, it became neceflary to ftrike more to the

Weftward, which we accordingly did, and the next
evening arrived at fome {mall patches of low {fcrubby
woods, where we faw the tracks of feveral deer, and
killed a few partridges. The road we had traverfed
for many days before, was in general fo rough and
ftony, that our {ledges were daily breaking; and to add
to the inconveniency, the land was fo barren, as not to
afford us materials for repairing them: but the few
woods we now fell in with, amply fupplied us with necef-
faries for thofe repairs; and as we were then enabled each
night to pitch proper tents, our lodging was much more
comfortable than it had been for many nights before,
while we were on the barren grounds, where, in gene-
ral, we thought ourfelves well off if we could fcrape

together as many fhrubs as would make a fire; but it
B 2 : was

3

1769.

November.

19th.

4
1769.

Satin stemmed
November.

zrit..

A JOURNEY (TO THE

was fcarcely ever in our power to make any other defence
avainft the weather, than by digging a hole in the fnow
down. to the mofs, wrapping ourfelves up in our clothing,
and lying down in it, with our fledges {et up edgeways.
to: windward.

On the twenty-firft, we did not move; fo the Indian
men went a hunting, and the women cut holes in the ice
and caught a few fifh in a {mall lake, by the fide of .
which we had pitched our tents. At night the men re-
turned with fome venifon, having killed three deer, which
was without doubt very acceptable; but our number
being great, and the Indians having fuch enormous fto-
machs, very little was left but fragments after the two
or three firft good meals. Having devoured the three
deer, and given fome neceflary repairs to our fledges and
fnow fhoes, which only took one day,. we again proceeded
on toward the North Weft by Weft and Weft North
Weft, through low fcrubby pines, intermixed with fome
dwarf larch, which is commonly called juniper in.
Hudfon’s Bay. In our road we frequently faw the tracks.
of deer, and many mufk-oxen, as they are called there ;
but none of my companions were fo fortunate as to kill
any of them: fo that a few partridges were all we could
get to live on, and thofe were fo fcarce, that we feldom
could kill as many as would amount to half a bird a day
for each man ; which, confidering we had nothing elfe for
the twenty-four hours, was in reality next to. nothing.

x 3 By

NORTHERN OCEAN.

By this time I found that Captain Chawchinahaw had
not the profperity of the undertaking at heart; he often
painted the difficulties in the worft colours, took every

‘method to difhearten me and my European companions,
and feveral times hinted his defire of our returning back
to the factory: but finding I was determined to proceed,

he took fuch methods as he thought would be moft

likely to anfwer his end; one of which was, that of not
adminiftering toward our fupport: fo that we were a
confiderable time without any other fubfiftence, but what
our two home-guard (Southern) Indians procured, and
the little that I and the two European men could kill;
which was very difproportionate to our wants, as we had
to provide for feveral women and children who were
with us.

_ Chawchinahaw finding that this kind of treatment
was not likely to complete his defign, and that we were
not to be flarved into compliance, at length influenced
feveral of the beft Northern Indians to defert in the
night, who took with them feveral bags of my ammu-
nition, fome pieces of iron work, fuch as hatchets, ice
chiffels, files, &c. as well as feveral other ufeful articles.

When I became acquainted with this piece of vil-
lany, I afked Chawchinahaw the reafon of fuch beha-
- viour. To which he anfwered, that he knew nothing of

the affair: but as that was the cafe, it would not be
prudent,

5
1700.
mae

November.
26th.

29th,

30th,

6

1769.

November.

A JOURNEY TO > THE

prudent, he faid, for us to proceed any farther ; adding,
that he and all the reft of his countrymen were going
to ftrike off another way, in order to join the remainder
of their wives and families: and after giving us a fhort
account which way to fteer our courfe for the neareft
part: of Seal River, which he faid would be our beft
way homeward, he and his crew delivered me moft

of the things which they had in charge, packed up

their awls, and fet out toward the South Weft, making
the woods ring with their laughter, and left us to con-
fider of our unhappy fituation, near two hundred miles
from Prince of Wales’s Fort, all heavily laden, and our
ftrength and fpirits greatly reduced e hunger and
fatigue.

Our fituation at that time, though very alarming,
would not permit us to {pend much time in refleétion ;
fo we loaded our fledges to the beft advantage, (but were
obliged to throw away fome bags of {hot and ball,) and
immediately fet out on our return. In the courfe of the
day’s walk we were fortunate enough to kill feveral par-
tridges, for which we were all very thankful, as it was
the firft meal we had had for feveral days: indeed,
for the five preceding days we had not killed as much
as amounted to half a partridge for each man; and fome
days had not a fingle mouthful. While we were
in this diftrefs, the Northern Indians were by no means
in want; for as they always walked foremoft, they

had

NO R-T.W E R NYO... E A N.

had ten times the chance to kill partridges, rabbits, or
any other thing which was to be met with, than we had.
Befide this advantage, they had great ftocks of flour,
oatmeal, and other Englifh provifions, which they had
embezzled out of my ftock during the early part of the
journey; and as one of my home Indians, called
Mackachy, and his wife, who is a Northern Indian
woman, always reforted to the Northern Indians tents,
where they got amply fupplied with provifions when

7

1769.

(eee
November.

neither I nor my men had a fingle mouthful, I have great _

reafon to fufpect they had a principal hand in the embezzle-
ment: indeed, both the man and his wife were capable
of committing any crime, however diabolical.

This day we had fine pleafant weather for the feafon
of the year: we fet out early in the morning, and arrived.
the fame day at Seal River, along which we continued our
courfe for feveral days. In our way we killed plenty of
partridges, and faw many deer; but the weather was.
fo remarkably ferene that the Indians only killed two
of the latter. By this time game was become fo plen-
tiful, that all apprehenfions of ftarving were laid afide;
and though we were heavily laden, and travelled pretty
good days journeys, yet as our {pirits were good, our

ftrength gradually returned.

In our courfe down Seal River we met a ftranger,
a Northern Indian, on a hunting excurfion ; and though

he

December
BH,

8

1760.

December
sth.

AT OUR NIE 2 Or re Ee

he had not met with any fuccefs that day, yet he kindly
invited us to his tent, faying he had plenty of venifon at
my fervice; and told the Southern Indians, that as there
were two or three beaver houfes near his tent, he fhould
be glad of their affiftance in taking them, for there was
only one man and three women at the tent. i

Though we were at that time far from being in want
of provifions, yet we accepted his offer, and fet off with our
new guide for his tent, which, by a comparative diftance,
he told us, was not above five miles from the place where
we met him, but we found it to be nearer fifteen; fo that

-it was the middle of the night before we arrived at it.

When we drew near. the tent, the ufual fignal for the

approach of ftrangers was given, by firing a gun or two,

which was immediately anfwered by the man at the tent.
On our arrival at the door, the good man of the houfe
came out, fhook me by the hand, and welcomed us to his
tent ; but as it was too {mall to'contain us all, he ordered
his women to affift us in pitching our tent; and in the
mean time invited me and as many of my crew as
his little habitation could contain, and regaled us with
the beft in the houfe. The pipe went round pretty
brifkly, and the converfation naturally turned on the treat-
ment we had received from Chawchinahaw and his gang ;
which was always anfwered by our hoft with, ‘‘ Ah! if
‘¢ T had been there, it fhould not have been fo!” when,

notwithftanding his hofpitality on the prefent occafion, he
would

NORTHERN. OCEAN.

would moft affuredly have acted the fame part as the
others had done, if he had been of the party.

. Having refrefhed ourfelves with a plentiful fupper,
we took leave of our hoft for a while, and retired to
our tent; but not without being made thoroughly fen-
fible that many things would be expeéted from me,
before I fimally left them.

Early in the morning, my Indians affifted us in taking
the beaver houfes already mentioned; but the houfes
being fmall, and feme of the beavers efcaping, they
only killed fix, all of which were cooked the fame
night, and voracioufly devoured under the denomination
of a feaft. I alfo received from the Indians feveral
joints of venifon, to the amount of at leaft two deer;
but notwithftanding I was te pay for the whole, I found
that Mackachy and his wife got all the prime parts of the
meat; and on my mentioning it to them, there was fo
much clanfhip among them, that they preferred making
a prefent of it to Mackachy, to felling it to me at double
the price for which venifon fells in thofe parts: a
fufficient proof of the fingular advantage which a native
of this country has over an Englifhman, when at fuch
a diftance from the Company’s Fattories as to depend
entirely on them for fubfiftence. 7

C Think-

9
1769.

December.

6th.

Te)

1769.
Ce ered

December

7th.

Sth.

AAPOUWRNEY TO HE
Thinking I had made my ftay here long enough, I

gave orders to prepare for our departure; and as I had
purchafed plenty of meat for prefent ufe while we were
at this tent, fo I likewife procured fuch a fupply ta
carry with us, as was likely to laft us to the Fort.

Early in the morning we took a final leave of our
hoft, and proceeded on our journey homewards. One
of the ftrangers accompanied us, for which at firft I
could not fee his motive; but foon after our arrival at
the Factory, I found that the purport of his vifit was
to be paid for the meat, faid to be given gratis to
Mackachy while we were at his tent. The weather
continued very fine, but extremely cold ; and during this
part of my journey nothing material happened, till we
arrived fafe at Prince of Wales’s Fort on the eleventh
of December, to my own great mortification, and to
the no {mall furprife of the Governor, who had placed

great confidence in the abilities and conduct of
Chawchinahaw. ,

CHAP.

WOR THER N OG BAN.

Cy GE Ae, ee

Tranfactions from our arrival at the Factory, to my leaving
it again, and during the firftpart of my fecond journey,
till I had the misfortune to break the quadrant.

Tranfattions at the Fattory.—-Proceed on my fecond journey.—Arrive at
Seal River.—Deer plentiful for fome time.—Method of angling fib
under the ice.—Set our fifbing nets.—Method of fetting nets under the
ice.—My guide propofes to fray till the geefe began to fly ; bis reafons
accepted.—Pitch our tent in the beft manner.— Method of pitching a
tent in winter.—Fifb plentiful for fome time; grow very fearce; in
great want of provifions.—- Manner of employing my time.—My guide
killed tavo deer.—Move to the place they were lying at; there bill
feveral more deer, and three beavers.—Soon in want of provifions
again.— Many Indians join us from ihe Weftward.—We begin to move
towards the barren ground.— Arrive at She-than-nee, and there fuffer
great diftrefs for want of provifions.—Indians kill two fwans and three

. gecle.—Geefe and other birds of paffage plentiful.— Leave She-than-nee,

_ and arrive at Beralzone.—One of mycompantions guns burfis, and fhatters
his left hand.—Leave Beralzone, and get on the barren ground, clear
of all woods.—Throw away our fledges and {now fhoes.—Each perfon
takes a load on his back; my part of the luggage.—Expofed to many
hardjhips.— Several days without vittuals.—Indians kill three mufe
exen, but for want of fire are obliged to eat the meat raw.—Fine
weather returns ; make a fire; effects of long fafting ; flay a day or two
to dry fome meat in the Jun.— Proceed to the Northward, and arrive
at Cathawhachaga ; there find fome tents of Indians —.A Northern
leader called Keelchies meets us; fend a letter by bim to the Governor.—
Tranfathons at Cathawhachaga; leave it, and proceed to the North-
gvard.——Meet feveral Indians —My guide not willing to proceea; bis

Gp2 reasons

12

I ere:
read

A JOURNEY TO THE

reafons for it-—Many more Indians join us.—Arrive at Doobaunt
Whoie River.— Manner of ferrying over rivers in the Northeru Indian
canoes.—.No rivers in thofe parts in a ufeful direttion for the natives.—
lad nearly loft the quadrant and all the powder.—Some reflections on
our fituation, and the conduct of the Indians.—Find the quadrant, and
part of the powder.—Obferve for the latitude.— Quadrant broke.—
Refolve to return again to the Faétory.
Los G my abfence from Prince of Wales’s
Fort on my former journey, feveral. Northern
Indians arrived in great diftrefs at the Factery, and were
employed in fhooting partridges for the ufe of our
people at the Fort. One of thofe Indians. called Con-
ne-e-quefe faid, he had been very near to the famous
river I was engaged to go in queft of. Accordingly
Mr. Norton engaged him and two other Northern Indians
to accompany me on this fecond attempt; but to avoid
all incumbrances as much as poe Ply it was thought
advifable not to take any women*, that the Indians
might have fewer to provide for. I would not permit
any European to go with me, but two of the home-
guard (Southern) Indian men’ were to accompany me as
before. Indeed the Indians, both Northern and Southern,
paid fo little attention to Hbefter and Merriman on my
former journey, particularly in times of {carcity, that 1 was
determined not to take them with me in future; though
the former was very defirous to accompany me again,
and was well calculated to encounter the hardfhips of

* This was a propofal of the Governor’s, though he well knew we could not
do without their affiftance, both for hauling our baggage, as well as drefling
fkins for clothing, pitching our tent, getting firing, &c.

fuch

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fuch an undertaking. Merriman was quite fick of fuch
excurfions, and fo far from offering his fervice a fecond
time, feemed to be very thankful that he was once more
arrived in fafety among his friends; for before he got.
to the Factory he had contra¢ted a moft violent cold.

Having come to the above refolutions, and finally de-
termined on the number of Indians that were to accom-
pany us, we were again fitted out with a large fupply of
ammunition, and as many other ufeful articles as we
could conveniently take with us, together with a fmall
fample of light trading goods, for prefents to. the Indians,

as before.

My inftructions on this occafion amounted to no more

than an order to proceed as faft as poflible; and for my
conduct during the journey, I was referred to my former
inftructions of November 6th, 1760.

Every thing being in readinefs for our departure,
on the twenty-third of February I began my fecond
journey, accompanied by three Northern Indians and two
_of the home-guard (Southern) Indians. I took particular
care, however, that Mackachy, though an excellent hunter,
fhould not be of our party; as he had proved himéelf,

during my former journey, to be a fly artful villain.

The fnow at this time was fo deep on the top of
the ramparts, that few of the cannon were to be feen,
otherwife

Le

1770.

Vo
February.

23d.

14

L770.
even emcee
February.

Al «J OVU- RIN Bey VION MTEL EF

otherwife the Governor would have faluted me at my
departure, as before; but as thofe honours could not
poflibly be of any fervice to my expedition, I readily
relinquifhed every thing of the kind; and in lieu of

it, the Governor, officers, and people, infifted on giving
me three cheers. .

After leaving the Faétory, we continued our courfe in
much the fame direétion as in my former journey, till
we arrived at Seal River ; when, inftead of crofling it, and
walking on the barren anes as before, we followed the
courfe of the river, except in two particular places, where
the bends tended fo much to the South, that by croffing
two necks of land not more than five or fix miles wide,
we faved the walking of near twenty miles each ue and
{till came to the main river again.

The weather had been fo remarkably boifterous and
changeable, that we were frequently obliged to continue
two or three nights in the fame place. To make up for
this inconveniency, deer were fo plentiful for the firft
eight or ten days, that the Indians killed as many as was
neceflary ; but we were all fo heavy laden that we could
not poflibly take much of the meat with us. This I foon
perceived to be a great evil, which expofed us to fuch fre-
quent inconveniences, that in cafe of not killing any thing
for three or four days together, we were in great want of pro-
vifions ; we feldom, however, went to bed ae y fupperlefs

till

MG) KR Tikit B) Ro Na Ou EA N.

15

till the eighth of March ; when though we had only walked 177°

about eight miles that morning, and expended all the
remainder of the day in hunting, we could not pro.
duce a fingle thing at night, not even a partridge! nor
had we difcerned the track of any thing that day, which
was likely to afford us hopes of better fuccefs in the
morning. ‘This being the cafe, we prepared fome hooks
and lines ready to angle for fifh, as our tent was then by
the fide of a lake belonging to Seal River, which feemed
by its fituation to afford fome profpect of fuccefs.

Early in the morning we took down. our tent, and
moved about five miles to the Weft by South, to a part
of the lake that feemed more commodious for fifhing
than that where we had been the night before. As
{oon as we arrived at this. place, fome were immediately
~ employed cutting holes in the ice, while others pitched
the tent, got. firewood, &c.; after which, for it was
early in the morning, thofe who pitched the tent went
a hunting, and at night one of them returned with
a porcupine, while thofe who were angling caught feveral
fine trout, which afforded us a plentiful fupper, and we

had fome trifle left for breakfaft,

» Angling for fifth under the ice in winter requires no
other-procefs, than cutting round holes in the ice: from
one to two feet diameter, and letting down a baited
hook, which is always kept in motion, not only to

prevent

oth.

16

I 770-
SS ee |
March,

tgth.

2oth.

A J ODN BRA wy wee

prevent the water from freezing fo foon as it would do
if fuffered to remain quite ftill, but becaufe it is found
at the fame time to be a great means of alluring the fifth
to the hole; for it is always obferved that the fith in
thofe parts will take a bait which is in motion, much
fooner than one that is at reft.

Early in the morning we again purfued our angling,
and all the forenoon being expended without any fuccefs,
we took down our tent and pitched it again about eight
miles farther to the Weftward, on the fame lake, where
we cut more holes in the ice for angling, and that
night caught feveral fine pike. ‘The next day we moved
about five miles to the South Weft, down a {mall river,
where we pitched our tent; and having fet four fifhing
nets, in the courfe of the day we caught many fine fifh,
particularly pike, trout, tittymeg, and a coarfe kind of
fifh known in Hudfon’s Bay by the name of Methy*.

To fet a net under the ice, it is firft neceflary to
afcertain its exact length, by ftretching it out upon the
ice near the part propofed for fetting it. This being
done, a number of round holes are cut in the ice, at ten
or twelve feet diftance from each other, and as many in
number as will be fuficient to ftretch the net at its full
length. A line is. then paffled under the ice, by means

* The Methy are generally caught with a.hook; and the beft time for thar

{portis.in the night; and if the. night be dark, the better.
4 of

“NORTHERN OCEAN.

of along light pole, which is firft introduced at one of

the end holes, and, by means of two forked fticks, this
pole is eafily conduéted, or paffed from one hole to another,
under the ice, till it arrives at the laft. The pole is
then taken out, and both ends of the line being properly
fecured, is always ready for ufe. The net is made faft
to one end of the line by one perfon, and hauled under
the ice by a fecond; a large ftone is tied to each of the
lower corners, which ferves to keep the net expanded, and
prevents it rifing from the bottom with every waft
of the current. The Europeans fettled in Hudfon’s
Bay proceed much in the fame manner, though they in
general take much more pains; but the above method
is found quite fufficient by the Indians. |

In order to fearch a net thus fet, the two end holes
only are opened; the line is veered away by one perfon,
and the net hauled from under the ice by another; after
all the fifh are taken out, the net is eafily hauled back to
its former ftation, and there fecured as before.

As this place feemed likely to afford us a conftant
-fupply of fifh, my guide propofed to flay here till the
geefe began to fly, which in thofe Northern parts is
feldom before the middle of May. His reafons for fo

doing feemed well founded: ‘‘ The weather, he faid, .

“Cis at this time too cold to walk on the barren

‘* ovounds, and the svoods from this part lead fo much »

Dp «6 to

—~

1

£770
March,

A JOURNEY TO THE

‘* to the Weftward, that were we to continue travelling
“‘ in any tolerable fhelter, our courfe would net be |
‘“* better than Weft South Weft, which would only be
* going out of. our way; whereas, if we fhould remain
*‘ here till the weather permit us to walk due North,
‘© over the barren grounds, we fhall then in: one month
‘*« get farther advanced on our journey, than if we
‘“ were to continue travelling all the remainder of the
‘“* winter in the {weep of the woods.”

Thefe reafons appeared to.me very judicious, and as the
plan feemed likely to be attended with little trouble, it
met with my entire approbation. ‘That being the cafe, .
we took additional pains in building our tent, and made ~

it as commodious as the materials and fituation would

admit.

To pitch an Indian’s tent in winter, it is firft neceflary
to fearch for a level piece of: dry ground ; which cannot
be afcertained but by thrufting:a ftick through the {now
down to the ground, all over the propofed part. When
a convenient fpot is found, the fnow is then cleared away
in a circular form to the very mofs; and: when. it is pro-
pofed to remain more than a night or two in one:place, the
mofs is alfo cut up and removed, as it is very liable when
dry to take fire, and occafion much trouble to the inha-
bitants. A quantity of poles are then procured, which are

generally proportioned both in number and length. to the
a fize

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fize of the tent cloth, and the number of perfons it is in-
tended to contain. If one of the poles fhould not happen
to be forked, two of them are tied together near the top,
then raifed ere&t, and their buts or lower ends extended
as wide as the propofed diameter of the tent; the other
_ poles are then fet round at equal diftances from each
other, and in fuch order, that their lower ends form a
complete circle, which gives boundaries to the tent on
all fides: the tent cloth is then faftened to a light pole,

which is always raifed up and put round the poles from

the weather fide,’ fo that the two edges that lap over and
form the door are always to the leeward. It muft be
underftood that this method is only in ufe when the
Indians are moving from place to place every day; for
_ when they intend to continue any time in one place, they
always make the door of their tent to face the South.

The tent cloth is ufually of thin Moofe leather, drefled
and made by the Indians, and in fhape it nearly refembles
a fan-mount inverted ; fo that when the largeft curve
inclofes the bottom of the poles, the fmaller one is

always fufficient to cover the top; except a hole, which

is defignedly left open to letve the double purpofe of

chimney and window.

The fire is always made on the ground in the center,

and the remainder of the floor, or bottom of the tent, is
covered all oyer with fmall branches of the pine tree,
D 2 which

19

1770,
March,

A JOURNEY TO THE

which ferve both for feats and beds. A quantity of
pine tops and branches are laid round the bottom of
the poles on the outfide, over which the eves of the
tent is ftaked down; a quantity of {now is then packed
over all, which excludes great part of the external air,
and contributes greatly to the warmth within. The
tent here defcribed is fuch as is made ufe of by the
Southern Indians, and the fame with which I was fur-
nifhed at the Factory ; for that made ufe of by the North-
ern Indians is made of different materials, and is of a

quite different fhape, as fhall be defcribed hereafter,

The fituation of our tent at this time was truly plea-
fant, particularly for a fpring refidence; being on a {mall
elevated point, which commanded an extenfive profpect
over a large lake, the fhores of which abounded with

-wood of different kinds, fuch as pine, larch, birch, and

poplar ; ; and in many places was beautifully conteited
with a variety of high hills, that fhewed their fnowy
fummits above the talleft woods. About two hundred
yards from the tent was a fall, or rapid, which the
{wiftnefs of the current prevents from freezing in the
coldeft winters. At the bottom of this fall, which
empties itfelf into the above lake, was a fine fheet of
open water near a mile in length, and at leaft half a
mile in breadth; by the margin of which we had our
fithing nets fet, all in open view from the tent.

The

NORTHERN OCEAN.

The remaining part of this month pafled on without
any interruption, or material occurrence, to difturb our
repofe, worth relating; our fifhing nets provided us
with daily food, and the Indians had too much philo-
fophy about them to give themfelves much additional

trouble; for during the whole time not one of them ~

offered to look for a partridge, or any thing elfe which
could yield a change of diet. :

_ As the time may now be fuppofed to have lain heavy
on my hands, it may not be improper to inform the
reader how I employed it. In the firft place, I em-
braced every favourable opportunity of obferving the
latitude of the place, the mean of which was 58° 46°
30° North; and the longitude by account was 5°.57°
Weft, from Prince of Wales’s Fort. I then corrected
my reckoning from my laft obfervation; brought up
my journal, and filled up my chart, to the place of our
refidence. I built alfo fome traps, and caught a few
martins; and by way of faving my ammunition, fet. fome
- {nares for partridges. . The former is performed’ by means
of a few logs, fo arranged that when the martin attempts
to take away the bait laid for him, he with very little
ftruggle pulls down a {mall poft that fupports the whole
weight of the trap; when, if the animal be not killed
by the weight of the logs, he is confined till he be
frozen to death, or killed by the hunter going his
rounds.

Te

21

1770.

(|
March.

A JOURNEY TO THE.

To fnare partridges requires no other procefs than
making a few little hedges acrofs a creek, or a few fhort
hedges proje@ing at right angles from the fide of an ifland
of willows, which thofe birds are found to frequent.

Several openings mutt be left in each hedge, to admit the

birds to pafs through, and in each of them a fnare muft
be fet; fo that when the partridges are hopping along the
edge of the willows to feed, which is their ufual cuftom,

fome of them foon get into the fnares, where they are

confined till they are taken out. I have caught from
three to ten partridges in a day by this fimple contri-
vance; which requires no farther attendance than going
round them night and morning.

T have already obferved that nothing material happened
to difturb our repofe till the frft of April, when to our
great furprife the fifhing nets did not afford us a fingle
fifh. Though fome of the preceding days had been
pretty fuccefsful, yet my companions, like true Indians,
feldom went to fleep till they had cleared the tent of
every article of provifion. As nothing was to be caught
in the nets, we all went out to angle; but in this we
were equally unfuccefsful, as we could not procure one
fith the whole day. This fudden change of circumftances
alarmed one of my companions fo much, that he began
to think of refuming the ufe of we eun, after having
laid it by for near a esiénitis!

Early

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Early in the morning we arofe; when my guide Con-
ne-e-quefe went a hunting, and the reft attended the nets
and hooks near home ; but all with fuch bad fuccefs, that
we could not procure enough in one day to ferve two men
for a fupper. This, inftead of awakening the reft of
my companions, fent them to fleep; and fcarcely any
of them had the prudence to look at the fifhing nets,
though they were not more than two or three hundred
yards from the tent door.

My guide, who was a fteady man, and an excellent
hunter, having for many years been accuftomed to pro-
vide for a large family, feemed by far the moft in-
duftrious of all my crew; he clofely purfued his hunt-
ing for feveral days, and feldom returned to the tent till
after dark, while thofe at the tent pafled moft of their
time in fmoking and fleeping.

Several days pafled without any figns of relief, till
the roth, when my guide continued out longer than ordi-
nary, which made us conjecture that he had met with
ftrangers, or feen fome deer, or other game, which occa-
fioned his delay. We all therefore lay down to fleep,
having had but little refrefhment for the three preceding
days, except a pipe of tobacco and a. draught of water ;
even partridges had become fo fcarce that not one was
to be got; the heavy thaws had driven them ail out

towards the barren grounds. About midnight, to our
| | great

23

1770.
April.

roth,

24

17°70.
April.

Lith.

A JOURNEY TO THE

great joy, our hunter arrived, and brought with him
the blood and fragments of two deer that he had
killed. This unexpected fuccefs foon roufed the fleepers,
who, in an inftant, were bufily employed in cooking a.
large kettle of broth, made with the blood, and fome fat
and {craps of meat fhred {mall, boiled in it. This might
be reckoned a dainty difh at any time, but was more
particularly fo in our prefent almoft famifhed condition.

After partaking of this refrefhment, we refumed our
reft, and early in the morning fet out in a body for the
place where the deer were lying. As we intended to
make our ftay but fhort, we left our tent ftanding, con-
taining all our baggage. On our arrival at the place
of deftination, fome were immediately employed in mak-
ing a hut or barrocado with young pine trees; while
one man fkinned the deer, the remainder went a hunting,
and in the afternoon returned to the ‘hut, after having
killed two deer. if

Several days were now fpent in feafting and glut-

tony; during which the Indians killed five more deer

and three fine beavers; finding at laft, however, that
there was little profpe& of procuring either more deer
or beavers, we determined to return to our tent, with
the remains of what we had already obtained.

The fleth of thefe deer, though none of the. largeft,
might with frugality have ferved our {mall number, (being
only

NORTHERN OCEAN.

only fix) for fome time; but my companions, like other
Indians, feafted day and night while it lafted; and were
fo indolent and unthinking, as not to attend properly to the
fifhing-nets; fo that many fine fifh, which had been en-
tangled in the nets, were entirely fpoiled, and in about
twelve or fourteen days we were nearly in as great diftrefs
for provifions as ever.

During the courfe of our long inactivity, Saw-fop-o-

kifhac, commonly called Soflop, my principal Southern —

Indian, as he was cutting fome birch for fpoons, dithes,
and other-neceflary houfehold furniture, had the misfortune
to cut his leg in fuch a manner as to be incapable of walk-
ing; and the other Southern Indian, though a much
younger man, was fo indolent as not to be of any fervice
tome, except hauling part of our luggage, and eating up
part of the provifions which had been provided by the

more induftrious part of my companions.

On the twenty-fourth, early in the day, a great body
of Indians was feen to the South Weft, on the large lake
by the fide cf which our tent ftood. On their arrival at
our tent we difcovered them to be the wives and families
of the Northern Indian goofe-hunters, who were gone to
_ Prince of Wales’s Fort to attend the feafon. ‘They were
bound toward the barren ground, there to wait the re-
turn of their hufbands and relations from the Fort, after

the termination of the goofe-feafon.
; E My

N
Vy

1770.

April.
22d.

2ith.

26

1770.
eed

April
27th.

29th.

May
13th.

ACID TT RN ER ETO: Tiga

My guide having for fome days paft determined to
move toward the barren ground, this morning we took
down our tent, packed up our luggage, and proceeded
to the Eaftward in the fame track we came; but Soffop
being fo lame as to be obliged to be hauled on a fledge,
I eafily prevailed on two of the Indians who had joined
us on the 24th, and who were purfuing the fame road,
to perform this fervice for him.

After two days good walking in our old track, we ar-
rived at a part of Seal River called She-than-nee, where
we pitched our tent and fet both our fifhing-nets, intend-
ing to ftay there till the geefe began to fy. Though we
had feen feveral fwans and fome geefe flying to the North-
ward, it was the thirteenth of May before we could
procure any. On that day the Indians killed two fwans
and three geefe. This in fome meafure alleviated our
diftrefs, which at that time was very great; having had
no other fubfiftence for five or fix days, than a few cran-
berries, that we gathered from the dry ridges where the
{now was thawed away in fpots; for though we fet our
fifhing-nets in the beft judged places, and angled at every
part that was likely to afford fuccefs, we only caught
three {mall fifh during the whole time. Many of the
Northern Indians, who had joined us on the 24th of
April, remained in our company for fome time; and

though I well knew they had had a plentiful winter,

and had then good flocks of dried meat by them, and
were

“NO 2 HE RUNG OG EB AN.

were alfo acquainted with our diftrefs, they never gave
me or my Southern companions the leaft fupply, although
they had in fecret amply provided for our Northern
cuides.

By the nineteenth, the geefe, fwans, ducks, gulls, and
other birds of paffage, were fo plentiful, that we killed every
day as many as were fufficient for our fupport; and having
{topped a few days to recruit our fpirits after fo long a
faft, on the twenty-third we began once more to proceed
toward the barren ground. Soflop having now periealy
recovered from his late misfortune, every thing feemed to
have a favourable appearance; efpecially as my crew had
been augmented to twelve perfons, by the addition of one
of my ¢ bide’ s wives, and five others, whom I had engaced
to afi; in carrying our luggage ; and I well knew, from
the feafon of the year, that hauling would foon be at a

end for the fummer.

'The thaws having been by this time fo great as to ren-
der travelling in the woods almoft impracticable, we con-
tinued our courfe to the Eaft on Seal River, about fixteen
miles farther, when we came to a fmall river, and a
ftring of lakes conneéted with it, that tended to the
Northi.

The weather for fome time was remarkably fine and
pleafant. Game of all kinds was exceedingly plentiful,

@

E 2 and

O77
rw:

1770.

May.

roth.

as
234.

28

1770.
Se anamee

June.
if.

Ath.

sth.

6th.

roth.

A’ FOU RNY OO € FE

and we continued our courfe to the Northward on the
above river and lakes till the firft of June, when we ar-
rived at a place called Beralzone. In our way thither,
befide killing more geefe than was neceflary, we {hot
two deer. One of my companions had now the misfor-
tune to fhatter his hand very much by the burfting of a
gun; but as no bones were broken, I bound up the
wound, and with the afliftance of fome of Turlington’s
drops, yellow bafilicon, &c. which I had with me, foon
reftored the ufe of his hand fo that in a very fhort time
he feemed to be out of all danger.

After ftopping a few days at Beralzone, to dry a little
venifon and a few geefe, we again proceeded to the North-
ward on the barren ground ; for on our leaving this place
we foon got clear of all the woods. |

‘The fnow was by this time fo foft as to render walking ©
in fnow-fhoes very laborious ; and though the ground was
bare in many places, yet at times, and in particular places,
the fhow-drifts were fo deep, that we could not poflibly
dowithout them. By the fixth, however, the thaws were
fo general, and the fnows fo much melted, that as our
fnow-fhoes were attended with more trouble than fervice,
we all confented to throw them away. ‘Till the tenth,
our fledges proved ferviceable, particularly in crofling lakes
and ponds on the ice; but that mode of travelling now
crowing dangerous on account of the great thaws, we

3 determined

NORTHERN JUOCEAN,

determined to throw away our fledges, and every one to take
a load on his back.

This I found to be much harder work than the winter
carriage, as my part of the luggage confifted of the fol-
lowing articles, viz. the quadrant and its fland, a trunk
containing books, papers, &c. a land-compafs, and a large
bag containing all my wearing apparel; alfo a hatchet,
knives, files, &c. befide feveral {mall articles, intended
for prefents to the natives. The aukwardnets of my load,
added to its great weight, which was upward of fixty
pounds, and the exceflive heat of the weather, rendered
walking the moft laborious tafk I had ever encountered ;
and what confiderably increafed the hardfhip, was the bad-
nefs of the road, and the coarfenefs of our lodging, being, on
account of the want of proper tents, expofed to the utmoft
feverity of the weather. The tent we had with us was not
only too large, and unfit for barren ground fervice, where
no poles were to be got, but we had been obliged to cut
it up for fhoes, and each perfon carried his own hare.
Indeed my guide behaved both negligently and ungene-
roufly on this occafion; as he never made me, or my
Southern Indians, acquainted with the nature of pitching
tents on the barren ground; which had he done, we
could eafily have procured a fet of poles before we left the
woods. He took care, however, to procure a fet for him-
felf and his wife; and when the tent was divided, though

he made fhift to get a piece large enough to ferve him for
a com-

ep

1770.
(acer red

June.

AL ROU RUN Mem BOR aa

a complete little tent, he never afked me or my Southern
Indians to put our heads into it. :

Befide the inconvenience of being expofed to the open
air, night and day, in all weathers, we experienced real
diftrefs from the want of victuals. When provifions were
procured, it often happened that we could not make a
fire, fo that we were obliged to eat the meat quite raw;
which at firft, in the article of fifh particularly, was as
little relifhed by my Southern companions as myfelf.

Notwithftanding thefe accumulated and complicated
hardfhips, we continued in perfeé& health and good {pirits;
and my guide, though a perfeé niggard of his provifions,
efpecially in times of f{carcity, gave us the ftrongeft af-
furance of foon arriving at a plentiful country, which
would not only afford us a certain fupply of provifions,
but where we fhould meet with other Indians, who pro-
bably would be willing to carry part of our luggage.
This news naturally gave us great confolation; for at that
time the weight of our conftant loads was fo great, that
when Providence threw any thing in our way, we could
not carry above two days provilions with us, which
indeed was the chief reafon of our being fo frequently

in want.

From the twentieth to the twenty-third we walked
every day near twenty miles, without any other fubfiftence
than.

NORTHERN OCEAN,

than a pipe of tobacco, and a drink of water when we
pleafed: even partridges and gulls, which fome time before
were in great plenty, and eafily procured, were now fo

{carce and fhy, that we could rarely get one; and as to_

geefe, ducks, &c. they had all flown to the Northward
to breed and molt.

Early in the morning of the twenty-third, we fet out as
ufual, but had not walked above feven or eight miles be-
fore we faw three mufk-oxen grazing by the fide of a fmall
lake. ‘The Indians immediately went in purfuit of them;
and as fome of them were expert hunters, they foon killed
the whole of them. This was no doubt very fortunate;
but, to our great mortification, before we could get one
of them fkinned, fuch a fall of rain came on, as to put
it quite out of our power to makea fire; which, even in
the fineft weather, could only be made of mofs, as we
were near an hundred miles from any woods. ‘This was
poor comfort for people who had not broke their faft for
four or five'days. Necedlity, however, has no law; and
having been before initiated into the method of eating
raw meat, we were the better prepared for this repaft:
but this was by no means fo well relifhed, either by me
or the Southern Indians, as cither raw venifon or raw fifh
had been: for the flefh' of the mufk-ox is not only coarfe
and tough, -but f{mells and taftes fo firong of mufk as to

make it very. difagreeable when raw, though it is tolerable |

eating when properly cooked. The weather continued fo
remark-

31
1770.

June.

32

1770,

June.

A JOURNEY TO THE

remarkably bad, accompanied with conftant heavy rain,
{now, and fleet, and our neceflities were fo great by
the time the weather. permitted us to make a fire, that we
had nearly eat to the amount of one buffalo quite raw.

Notwithftanding I muftered up all my philofophy on
this occafion, yet I muft confefs that my fpirits began
to fail me. Indeed our other misfortunes were greatly
aggravated by the inclemency of the weather, which was
not only cold, but fo very wet that for near three days
and nights I had not one dry thread about me. When
the fine weather returned, we made a fire, though it was
only of mofs, as I have already obferved; and having
got my cloaths dry, all things feemed likely to go on in
the old channel, though that was indifferent enough ; but
I endeavoured, like a failor after a sui to forget paft

misfortunes.

None of our natural wants, if we except thirft, are fo
diftrefling, or hard to endure, as hunger; and in wan-
dering fituations, like that which I now experienced, the
hardfhip is greatly aggravated by the uncertainty with re-
{pe& to its duration, and the means moft proper to be
ufed to remove it, as well as by the labour and fatigue we
muft neceflarily undergo for that purpofe, and the difap-
pointments which too frequently fruftrate our beft con-
certed plans and moft ftrenuous exertions: it not only

enfeebles the body, but depreffes the {pirits, in {pite of

ever y

MORPTHERN: OCEAN.

every effort to prevent it. Befides, for want of action, the
{tomach fo far lofes its digeftive powers, that after long faft-
ing it refumes its office with pain and reluctance. During
this journey I have too frequently experienced the dread-
ful effe&ts of this calamity, and more than once been re-
duced to fo low a flate by hunger and fatigue, that when
Providence threw any thing in my way, my ftomach has
{carcely been able to retain more than two or three ounces,
without producing the moft oppreflive pain. Another
-difagreeable circumftance of long fafting is, the extreme

difficulty and pain attending the natural evacuations for ©

the firft time; and which is fo dreadful, that of it none

but thofe who have experienced can have an adequate

idea.

To record in detail each day’s fare fince the com-
mencement of this journey, would be little more than a
dull repetition of the fame occurrences. A fufficient
idea of it may be given in a few words, by obferving
that it may juftly be faid to have been either all fiat
ing, or all famine: fometimes we had too much, feldom
juft enough, frequently too little, and often none at all,
It will be only neceflary to fay that we have fafted many
times two whole days and nights; twice upwards of
three days; and once, while at She-than-nee, near feven
days, during which we tafted not a mouthful of any
thing, except a few cranberries, water, fcraps of old
leather, and burnt bones. On thofe prefling occafions I

‘have frequently ou the Indians examine their wardrobe,
F which

33
1770.

June,

A JOURNEY TOUTE

which confifted chiefly of fkin-clothing, and confider
what part could beft be {pared ; fometimes a piece of an
old, half-rotten deer fkin, and at others a pair of old
fhoes, were facrificed to alleviate extreme hunger. The
relation of fuch uncommon hardfhips may perhaps gain
little credit in Europe; while thofe who are converfant
with the hiftory of Hudfon’s Bay, and who are thoroughly
acquainted with the diftrefs which the natives of the
country about it frequently endure, may confider them as
no more than the common occurrences of an Indian life,
in which they are frequently driven to the neceffity of

eating one another *.
Knowing

* It is the general opinion of the Southern Indians, that when any of their
tribe have been driven to the neceffity of eating human flefh, they become fo
fond of it, that no perfon is fafe in their company. And though it is well
known they are never guilty of making this horrid repaft but when driven to
it by neceffity, yet thofe who have made it are not only fhunned, but fo uni-
verfally detefted by all who know them, that no Indians will tent with them,
and they are frequently murdered flily. I have feen feveral of thofe poor
wretches who, unfortunately for them, have come under the above defcrip-
tion, and though they were perfons much efteemed before hunger had driven
them to this act, were afterward fo univerfally defpifed and negle&ed, that a
{nile never graced their countenances: deep melancholy has been feated on
their brows, while the eye moft expreffively fpoke the dictates of the heart,
and feemed to fay, “ Why do you defpife me for my misfortunes ? the period
‘is probably not far diftant, when you may be driven to the like neceffity !”

In the Spring of the year 1775, when I was building Cumberland Houfe,
an Indian, whofe name was Wapoos, came to the fettlement, at a time when
fifteen tents of Indians were on the plantations: they examined him very
minutely, and found he had come a confiderable way by himfelf, without a
oun, OF ammunition. This made many of them conjecture he had met with,
and killed, fome perfon by the way; and this was the more eafily credited,

from

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Knowing that our conftant loads would not permit us , 177° |

to carry much provifions with us, we agreed to continue
a day or two to refrefh ourfelves, and to dry a little meat
in the fun, as it thereby not only becomes more portable,
but is always ready for ufe. On the twenty-fixth, all
that remained of the mufk-ox flefh being properly
dried and fit for carriage, we began to proceed on our
journey Northward, and on the thirtieth of June arrived
at a {mall river, called Cathawhachaga, which empties
itfelf into a large lake called Yath-kyed-whoie, or White
Snow Lake. Here we found feveral tents of Northern
Indians, who had been fome time employed {pearing deer
in their canoes, as they croffed the above mentioned little
river. Here alfo we met a Northern Indian Leader, or
Captain, called Keelfhies, and a fmall party of his crew,
who were bound to Prince of Wales’s Fort, with furs

from the care he took to conceal a bag of provifions, which he had brought
with him, in a lofty pine-tree near the houfe.

Being a ftranger, I invited him in, though I faw he had nothing for trade ;
and during that interview, fome of the Indian women examined his bag, and
gave it as their opinion that the meat it contained was human flefh: in con-
fequence, it was not without the interference of fome principal Indians,
whofe liberality of fentiment was more extenfive than that in the others,
the poor créature faved his life. Many of the men cleaned and loaded
their guns; others had their bows and arrows ready ; and even the women

took poffeffion of the hatchets, to kill this poor inoffenfive wretch, for no |

crime but that of travelling about two hundred miles by himfelf, unaffifted
by fire-arms for fupport in his journey.

F 2 and

4
J

June.

26th.

30th.

5

A /fOURNEY? TIO) THE

and other commodities for trade. When Keelfhies was
made acquainted with the intent of my journey, he readily
offered his fervice to bring me any thing from the Factory
that we were likely to ftand in need of ; and though we
were then in latitude 63° 4’ North, and longitude 7° 12°
Welt from Churchill, yet he promifed to join us again, at
a place appointed by, my guide, by the fetting in of the
Winter. In confequénce of this offer, I looked over our
ammunition and other articles; and finding that a little
powder, fhot, tobacco, and a few knives, were likely to
be of fervice before the journey could be completed, I
determined to fend a letter to the governor of Prince of
Wales’s Fort, to advife him of my fituation, and to defire
him to fend by the bearer a certain quantity of the above |
articles ; on which Keelfhies and his crew proceeded on
their journey for the Factory the fame day.

Cathawhachaga was the only river we had feen fince the
breaking up of the ice that we could not ford ; and as
we had not any canoes with us, we were obliged to get
ferried acrofs by the flrange Indians. When we ar-
rived on the North fide of this river, where the Indians
refided, my guide propofed to ftop fome time, to dry and
pound fome meat to take with us; to which I readily con-
fented. We alfo fet our fifhing-nets, and caught a con-
fiderable, quantity of very fine fifh; fuch as tittemeg,
barble, &c. ‘

The

NORTHERN OCEAN.
The number of deer which croffed Cathawhachaga,

during our flay there, was by no means equal to our ex-
pe@ations, and no more than juft fufficient to fupply our
prefent wants ; fo that after waiting feveral days in fruit-
lefs expectation, we began to prepare for moving; and
accordingly, on the fixth of July, we fet out, though
we had not at that time as much victuals belonging to
our company as would furnifh us a fupper. During our
ftay here, we had each day got as much fith or flefh as was
fafficient for prefent expenditure; but, being in hopes
of better times, faved none. : |

&

Before we left Cathawhachaga, I made feveral obfervations _

for the latitude, and found it to be 63° 4’ North. I alfo
brought up my journal, and filled up my chart to that
time. Every thing being now ready for our departure,
my guide informed me that in a few days a canoe would
be abfolutely neceflary, to enable us to crofs fome unford-
able rivers which we fhould meet, and could not avoid.

This induced me to purchafe one at the ealy rate of a

fingle knife, the full value of which did not exceed one
penny. It muft be obferved, that the-man who fold the
canoe had no farther occafion for it, and was glad to take
what he could get; but had he been thoroughly ac-
quainted with our neceffities, he moft afluredly would
have had the confcience to have afked goods to the amount
of ten beaver {kins at leaft.

7 This

37

1770.
Mceseeen, amend)

July.

6th,

38

1770.
(ee ers

July.

oth.

s7th.

A JOU RON aie ar ON a er

This additional piece of luggage obliged me to engage -
another Indian; and we were lucky enough at that time
to meet with a poor forlorn fellow, who was fond of the
office, having never been in a much better ftate than that
of a beaft of burthen. Thus, provided with a canoe, and
a man to carry it, we left Cathawhachaga, as has been
obferved, on the fixth of July, and continued our courfe
to the North by Weft, and North North Weft; and that
night put up by the fide of a {mall bay of White Snow
Lake, where we angled, and caught feveral fine trout,
fome of which weighed not lefs than fourteen or fixteen
pounds. Inthe night heavy rain came on, which con-
tinued three days; but the ninth proving fine weather,
and the fun difplaying his beams very powerfully, we
dried our clothes, and proceeded to the Northward. To-
ward the evening, however, it began again to rain fo ex-
ceflively, that it was with much difhiculty we kept our
powder and books dry.

On the feventeenth, we faw many mufk-oxen, feveral of
which the Indians killed ; when we agreed to ftay here a
day or two, to dry and pound * fome of the carcafes to take
with us. The flefh of any animal, when it is thus pre-
pared, is not only hearty food, but is always ready for

* To prepare meat in this manner, it requires no farther operation than
cutting the lean parts of the animal into thin flices, and drying it in the fun, or
by a flow fire, till, after beating it between two ftones, it is reduced to a coarfe
powder.

ufe,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ufe, and at the fame time very portable. In moft parts
of Hudfon’s Bay itis known by the name of Thew-hagon,
but amonegft the Northern Indians it is called Achees.

Having prepared as much dried flefh as we could tran{f-
port, we proceeded to the Northward; and at our de-
parture left a great quantity of meat behind us, which
we could neither eat nor carry away. This was not
the firft time we had fo done; and however wafteful
it may appear, it is a practice fo common among all the
Indian tribes, as to be thought nothing of. On the
twenty-fecond, we met feveral {ftrangers, whom we joined
in purfuit of the deer, &c. which were at this time fo
plentiful, that we got every day a fufiicient number for
our fupport, and indced too frequently killed {feveral
merely for the tongues, marrow, and fat.

After we had been fome time in company with thofe
Indians, I found that my guide feemed to hefitate about

proceeding any farther; and that he kept pitching his tent
backward and forward, from place to place, after the
deer, and the reft of the Indians. On my afking him his
reafon for fo doing; he anfwered, that as the year was
too far advanced to admit of our arrival at the Copper-
mine River that Summer, he thought it more advifable
to pafs the Winter with fome of the Indians then in com-
pany, and alleged that there could be no fear of our ar-
riving at that river early in the Summer of one thou-

fand feven hundred and feventy-one. As I could not
| pretend

39
17-0.

July.

22d.

Ay YOUR NSW TO the E

pretend to contradict him, I was entirely reconciled to
his propofal; and accordingly we kept moving to the
Weftward with the other Indians. In a few days, many.
others joined us from different quarters; fo that by the
thirtieth of July we had in all above feventy tents, which
did not contain lefs than fix hundred perfons. Indeed
our encampment at night had the appearance of a {mall

‘town; and in the morning, when we began to move,

the whole ground (at leaft for a large fpace all round)
feemed to be alive, with men, women, children, and
dogs. ‘Though the land was entirely barren, and deftitute —
of every kind of herbage, except wifh-a-capucca* and
mofs, yet the deer were fo numerous that the Indians
not only killed as many as were fafficient for our large
number, but often feveral merely for the fkins, marrow,
&c. and left the carcafes to rot, or to be devoured by the
wolves, foxes, and other beafts of prey.

In our way to the Weftward we came to feveral rivers,
which, though {mall and of no note, were fo deep as
not to be fordable, particularly Doo-baunt River +. On
thofe occafions only, we had recourfe to our canoe, which,
though of the common fize, was too {mall to carry more

* With-a-capucca is the name given by the natives to a plant which is found
all over the country bordering on Hudfon’s Bay ; and an infufion of it is ufed
as tea by all the Europeans fettled in that country.

+ This river, as well as all others deferving that appellation which I
croffed during this part of my journey, ran to the Eaft and North Eaft; and
both them and the lakes were perfectly frefh, and inhabited by fith that are

well known never to frequent falt water.
than

NORTHERN i@@E AN, . ,

than two perfons; one of whom always lies down at full
length for fear of. making the canoe top-heavy, and the
_ other fits on his heels and- paddles. This method of fer-

tying over rivers, though tedious, is the moft expeditious

_way thefe poor people can contrive; for they are fome-
times obliged to carry their canoes one hundred and fifty,
er two padied miles, without having occafion to make
ufe of them; yet at times they cannot do without them;
and were they not very {mall and portable, it would be
impoffible for one man to carry them, which they are
often obliged to do, not only the Bites above mentioned,

but even the whole Summer.

The perfon I engaged at Cathawhachaga to carry my
canoe proving too weak for the tafk, another of my crew
was obliged to exchange loads with him, which feemed
perfectly agreeable to all parties; and as we walked but

{hort days journies, and deer were very plentiful, all.

_ things went on very{moothly. Nothing material happened
till the eighth, when we were near lofing the quadrant and
all our powder from the following circumftance: the fellow
who had been releafed from carrying the canoe proving
teo weak, as hath been already obferved, had, after the
exchange, nothing to carry but my powder and his own
trifles; the latter were indeed very inconfiderable, not equal
in fize and weight to a foldier’s knapfaick. As I intended
to have a little fport with the deer, and knowing his load

to be much lighter than mine, I gave him the quadrant
G and

At

1770.

Nn ——— ne

Auguft.

6th.

Sth.

42

17/70.
Auguft.

Ab yp OW RMB e BO HE

and ftand to carry, which he took without the leaft hefi-
tation, or feeming ill-will. Having thus eafed myfelf for
the prefent of a heavy and cumberfome part of my load,
I fet out early in the morning with fome of the Indian
men; and after walking about cight or nine miles, faw,
from the top of a high hill, a great number of deer feed-
ing in a neighbouring valley ; on which we laid down our
loads and erected a flag, as a fignal for the others to pitch
their tents there for the night. We then purfued our hunt-
ing, which proved very fuccefsful. At night, however,
when we came to the hill where we had left our baggage,
I found that only part of the Indians had arrived, and
that the man who had been entrufted with my powder and.
quadrant, had fet off another way, with a {mall party of
Indians that had been in our company that morning.
The evening being far advanced, we were obliged to defer
going in fearch of him till the morning, and as his track
could not be eafily difcovered in the Summer, the South-
ern Indians, as well as myfelf, were very uneafy, fearing
we had loft the powder, which was to provide us with
food and raiment the remainder of our journey. The very
uncourteous behaviour of the Northern Indians then in
company, gave me little hopes of receiving affiftance from
them, any longer than I had wherewithal to reward them
for their trouble and expence ; for during the whole time
I had been with them, not one of them had offered to give |
me the leaft morfel of vi€tuals, without afking fomething in
exchange, which, in general, was three times the value of

what

NORTHERN OCEAN.

what they could have got for clig-fame articles, had they car-
ried them to the Faétory, though feveral hundred miles

diftant.

So inconfiderate were thofe people, that. wherever they
met me, they always expected that I had a great affortment
of goods to relieve their neceflities; as if I had brought
the Company’s warehoufe with me. Some of them wanted
guns; all wanted ammunition, iron-work, and tobacco;
many were folicitous for medicine ; and others preffed me
for different articles of clothing: but when they found
I had nothing to {pare, except a few nick-nacks and gew-
gaws, they made no fcruple of pronouncing me a ‘ poor
“< fervant, noways like the Governor at the Factory, who,
“¢ they faid, they never faw, but he gave them fomething
“‘ ufeful.”” It is fcarcely poflible to conceive any people
fo void of common underftanding, as to think that the
fole intent of my undertaking this fatiguing journey, was
to carry a large affortment of ufeful and heavy implements,
to give to all that ftood in need of them; but many of
them would afk me for what they wanted with the fame
freedom, and apparently with the fame hopes of fuccels,
as if they had been at one of the Company’s Faétories.
Others, with an air of more generofity, offered me furs
to trade with at the fame ftandard as at the Factory; with-
out confidering how unlikely it was that I fhould increafe
the enormous weight of my load with articles which could
_ be of no more ufe to me in my prefent fituation than they

were to themfelves.
G 2 This

43
1770.

ae
Augutt.

Ad

1770.
ee |
Augutt.

gth..

A JOURNEY TO THE

This unaccountable behaviour of the Indians occafioned
much ferious reflection on my part;- as it fhewed plainly ©
how little I had to expe@ if I fhould, by any accident,
be reduced to the neceffity of Gaondne upon them for
fupport; fo that, though I laid me down to reft, fleep
was a ftranger to me that night. The following beau-
tiful lines of Dr. Young I repeated above an hundred
times ; :

« Tired Nature’s fweet reftorer, balmy Sleep;
«© He, like the world, his ready vifit pays -
« Where fortune fmiles; the wretched he forfakes :

«© Swift on his downy pinions flies from woe,
« And lights on lids unfully’d with a tear.” Nicut THovucuts.

n

After pafling the night in this melancholy manner, I
got up at day-break, and, with the two Southern Indians,
fet out in queft of our deferter. Many hours elapfed
in fruitlefs fearch after him, as we could not difcover
a fingle track in the direction which we were informed he
had taken. The day being almoft {pent without the leaft
appearance of fuccefs, I propofed repairing to the place
where I had delivered the quadrant to him, in hopes of
feeing’ fome track in the mofs that might lead to the way
the Indians were gone whom our deferter had accom-
panied. On our arrival at that place, we found they had
ftruck down toward a little river which they had crofled
the morning hefore; and there, to our great joy, we found

_ the quadrant and the bag of powder lying on the top of a

high ftone, but not a human being was to be feen. On
examining

NOR THER NOUS A WN,

examining the powder, we found that the bag had been
opened, and part of it taken out; but, notwithftanding
our lofs was very confiderable, we returned with light
hearts to the place at which we had been the night before,
where we found our baggage fafe, but all the Indians
gone: they had, however, been fo confiderate as to fet
up marks to dire& us what courfe to fteer. By the time
we had adjufted our bundles, the day was quite fpent;
feeing, however, a fmoke, or rather a fire, in the di-

rection we were ordered to fteer, we bent our way

towards it; and a little after ten o’clock at night came

up with the main body of the Indians; when, after

refrefhing ourfelves with a plentiful fupper, the firft

morfel we had tafted that day, we retired to reft, which
I at leaft enjoyed with better fuccefs than the preceding
night.

In the morning of the eleventh we proceeded on to the
Welt, and Weft by South ; but onthe twelfth did not move.
This gave us an opportunity of endeavouring to afcertain
the latitude by a meridian altitude, when we found the
place to be in 63° 10’ North nearly. It proving rather
cloudy about noon, though exceeding fine weather, I let
the quadrant ftand, in order to obtain the latitude more
exactly by two altitudes; but, to my great mortification,
while I was eating my dinner, a fudden guft of wind
blew it down; and as the ground where it ftood was

very

46

1770.
ew |
Augutt.

A JOURNEY TO THE

very ftoney, the bubble, the fight-vane, and vernier, were
entirely broke to pieces, which rendered the inftrument
ufelefs.: In confequence of this misfortune I refolved to
return again to the Fort, though we were then in the la-
titude of 63° 10° North, and about 10° 40° Weft longi-

tude from Churchill River.

CHAP.

NORTHERN OCEAN. a7

Ceo it) An Pic ea

‘Tranfactions from the Time the Quadrant was broken,
till I arrived at the Factory.

Several ftrange Indians join us from the Northward.—T hey plundered me
of all I had; but did not plunder the Southern Indians.—My guide
plundered.—We begin our return to the Fattory.—Meet with other
Indians, who join our company.—Collect deer—kins for clothing, but

could-not get them dreffed.—Suffer much hardfbip from the want of
tents and warm clothing.—Moft of the Indians leave us.—Meet with —
_ Matonabbee.—Some account of him, and his behaviour to me and the
Southern Indians. —We remain in his company fome time.—His obferva-
tions on my two unfucce/sful attempts.—We leave him, and proceed to a
place to which he direéted us, in order to make fnow-fboes and fledges.
—Foin Matonabbee again, and proceed towards the Faétory in his com-
pany.— Ammunition runs fhort.—Myfelf and four Indians fet off poft for
the Factory.— Much bewildered in a fnow ftorm; my dog is frozen
to death ; we lie in a bufh of willows.—Proceed on our journey.—Great

difficulty in crofing a jumble of rocks.—-Arrive at the Fort.

qi HE day after I had the misfortune to break the qua- 1770.
drant, feveral Indians joined me from the Northward, “Zusua

fome of as plundered me and my companions a ee

almoft every ufeful article we had, among which was my

gun; and notwithftanding we were then on the point of

returning to the Factory, yet, as one of my companions’

suns was a little out of Ok the lofs was likely to be
7 feverely

| Beret
A JOURNEY FpOe WTR.

feverely felt ;- but it not being in my power to recover it
again, we were obliged to reft contented.

Nothing can exceed the cool deliberation of thofe vil-
lains ; a committee of them entered my tent*. The
ringleader feated himfelf on my left-hand. They firft
begged me to lend them my fkipertogan + to fill a pipe of
tobacco. After {moking two or three pipes, they afked me
for feveral articles which I had not, and among others for a
pack of cards; but on my anfwering that I had not any of the
articles they mentioned, one of them put his hand on my
baggage, and afked if it was mine. Before I could anfwer in
the affirmative, he and the reft of his companions (fix in
number) had all my treafure fpread.on the ground. One
took, one thing, and another another, till at laft nothing
was left but the empty bag, which they permitted me to
keep. At length, confidering that, though I was going to
the Factory, I fhould want a knife to cut my victuals, an -
awl to mend my fhoes, and a needle to mend my other
clothing, they readily gave me thefe articles, though not
without making me underftand that I page look upon.

* This only confifted of three walking-fticks ftuck into the ground; anda
blanket thrown over them.

+ Skipertogan is a fmall bag that contains a flint and fteel, alfo a pipe and
tobacco, as well as touchwood, &c. for making a fire. Some of thefe bags
may be called truly elegant; being richly ornamented with beads, porcupine-
quills, morfe-hair, &c. a work always performed by the women; and they
are, with much propriety, greatly efteemed by moft Europeans for the neat-
nefs of their workmanfhip. !

2 | it

f
NORTHERN OCEAN.

it as a great favour. Finding them pofleffed of fo much
generofity, I ventured to folicit them for my razors; but
thinking that one would be fufficient to fhave me during
my pafflage home, they made no fcruple to keep the
other; luckily they chofe the worft. To complete their
generofity, they permitted me to take as much foap as I
thought would be fufhcient to wafh and fhave me during
the remainder of my journey to the Factory.

They were more cautious in plundering the Southern
Indians, as the relation of fuch outrages being com-
mitted on them might occafion a war between the two
nations; but they had nothing of that kind to dread from
the Englifh. However, the Northern Indians had ad-
drefs enough to talk my home-guard Indians out of all
they had: fo that before we left them, they were as clean
{wept as myfelf, excepting their guns, fome ammunition,
an old hatchet, an ice-chiffel, and a file to fharpen
them. :

It may probably be thought ftrange that my guide, who
was a Northern Indian, fhould permit his countrymen to
commit fuch outrages on thofe under his charge; but
being a man of little note, he was fo far from being able
to protect us, that he was obliged to fubmit to nearly the
fame outrage himfelf. On this occafion he aflumed a
great air of generofity; but the fact was, he gave freely
what it was not in his power to protect.

H Early

49

1770.
Cer, mest

Augutt,

gift.

September.

}

Ay OU RN Bye Sao! aaa

Early in the morning of the nineteenth, I fet out on my
return, in company with feveral Northern Indians, who
were bound to the Factory with furrs and other commo-

_dities in trade. This morning the Indian who took my

gun, returned it to me, it being of no ufe to him, having

no ammunition. ‘The weather for fome time proved fine,

and deer were very plentiful; but as the above ravagers
had materially lightened my load, by taking every thing
from me, except the quadrant, books, &c. this part of
my journey was the eafieft and moft pleafant of any I had
experienced fince my leaving the Fort. In our way we
frequently’ met with other Indians, fo that {earcely a day
paffed without our feeing feveral {mokes made by other
{trangers. Many of thofe we met joined our party, having
furrs and other commodities for trade.

The deer’s hair being now of a proper length for cloth-

ing, it was neceflary, according to the cuftom, to procure
as many of their fkins, while in feafon, as would make a
a fuit of warm clothing for the Winter: and as each
grown perfon requires the prime parts of from eight to
eleven of thofe fkins (in proportion to their fize) to make
a complete fuit, it muft naturally be fuppofed that
this addition to my burden was very confiderable. My
load, however cumberfome and heavy, was yet very bear-
able; but, after I had carried it feveral weeks, it proved
of no fervice; for we had not any women properly
belonging to our company, confequently had not any

perfon

NORTHERN OCEAN.

perfon to drefs them; and fo uncivil were the other In-
dians, that they would neither exchange them for others
of an inferior quality already drefled, nor permit their
women to drefs them for us, under pretence that they
were always employed in the like duty for themfelves and
families, which was by no means the cafe; for many
of them had fufficient time to have done every little
fervice of that kind that we could have required of them.
The truth was, they were too well informed of my po-

verty to do any acts of generofity, as they well knew I -

had it not then in my power to reward them for their
trouble. I never faw a fet of pecple that poffeffed fo
little humanity, or that could view the diftreffes of their
fellow-creatures with fo little feeling and unconcern; for
though they feem to have a great affection for their wives
and children, yet they will laugh at and ridicule the
diftrefs of every other perfon who is not immediately re-
lated to them.

This behaviour of the Indians made our fituation very
difagreeable ; for as the fall advanced, we began to feel
the cold very feverely for want of proper clothing. We
fuffered alfo greatly from the inclemency of the weather,
as we had no tent to fhelter us. My guide was en-
tirely exempted from all thofe inconveniences, having
procured a good warm fuit of clothing; and, as one of
his wives had long before joined our party, he was pro-
vided with a tent, and every other neceffary confaftent

H 2 with

51
1770.

September.

t7th.

20th.

A YOURNEW TO’ THE

with their manner of living: but the old fellow was fo

far from interefting himfelf in our behalf, that he had, for
fome time before, entirely withdrawn from our company $
and ‘though he then continued to carry the greateft part
of our little remains of ammunition, yet he did not con-
tribute in the {malleft degree towards our fupport. As deer,
however, were in great plenty, I felt little or no inconve-
nience from his neglect in this refpect.

Provifions ftill continued very plentiful; which was
a fingular piece of good fortune, and the only circum-
ftance which at this time could contribute to our hap-
pinefs or fafety; for notwithftanding the early feafon
of the year, the weather was remarkably bad and feverely
cold, at leaft it appeared fo to us, probably from having
no kind of fkin-clothing. In this forlorn ftate we con-
tinued our courfe to the South Eaft; and, to add to the
gloominefs of our fituation, moft of the Northern In-
dians who had been in our company all the firft part _
of the fall, were by this time gone a-head, as we could
not keep up with them for want of fnow-fhoes.

In the evening of the twentieth, we were joined from the ©
Weftward by a famous Leader, called Matonabbee, men-
tioned in my inftructions; who, with his followers, or
gang, was alfo going to Prince of Wales’s Fort, with
furrs, and other siete for trade. This Leader, when a

youth, refided feveral years at the above Fort, and was
not

MOT Tie E RN #O1€)E\ A N.

not only a perfect mafter of the Southern Indian language,
but by being frequently with the Company’s fervants, had
acquired feveral words of Englifh, and was one of the
men who brought the lateft accounts of the Coppermine
River; and it was on his information, added to that of
one I-dot-le-ezey, who is fince dead,) that this expedi-
tion was fet on foot.

The courteous behaviour of this ftranger ftruck me very
fenfibly. As foon as he was acquainted with our diftrefs,
he got fuch fkins as we had with us dreffed for the South-
ern Indians, and furnifhed me with a good warm {uit of
otter and other fkins: but, as it was not in his power to
provide us with f{now-fhoes, (being then on the barren
ground,) he directed us to a little river which he knew,
and where there was a {mall range of woods, which,
though none of the beft, would, he faid, furnifh us with
temporary fnow-fhoes and fledges, that might materially

affift us during the remaining part of our journey. We

{pent feveral nights in company with this Leader, though

we advanced towards the Fort at the rate-of ten or twelve.

miles a day ; and as provifions abounded, he made a grand
feaft for me in the Southern Indian ftile, where there was
plenty of good eating, and the whole concluded with fing-
ing and dancing, after the Southern Indian ftyle and
manner. In this amufement my home-guard Indians bore
no inconfiderable part, as pers were both men of fome

8 confequence

53

1770.

September.

Otober.

54
1770.

Otober.

ATTyO'U RON BEY) 10) Waraae

confequence when at home, and well known to Matonab-
bee: but among the other Northern Indians, to whom
they were not known, they were held in no eftimation ;
which indeed is not to be wondered at, when we confider
that the value of a man among thofe people, is always pro-
portioned to his abilities in hunting; and as my two In-
dians had not exhibited any great talents that way, the
Northern Indians fhewed them as much refpect as they do _
in common to thofe of very moderate talents among them-
felves.

During my converfation with this Leader, he afked me
very ferioufly, If I would attempt another journey for the
difcovery of the Copper-mines? And on my anfwering in
the afhrmative, provided I could get better guides than I
had hitherto been furnifhed with, he faid he would readily
engage in that fervice, provided the Governor at the Fort
would employ him. In anfwer to this, I affured him his
offer would be glad’y accepted ; and as I had already ex-
perienced every hardfhip that was likely to accompany any
future trial, I was determined to complete the difcovery,
even at the rifque of life itfelf. Matonabbee affured me,
that by the accounts received from his own countrymen,
the Southern Indians, and myfelf, it was very probable I
might not experience fo much hardfhip during the whole
journey, as I had already felt, though {carcely ed
one third part of the journey.

He

WOR Fil E RN (GO GE A N,

He attributed all our misfortunes to the mifconduét of my
guides, and. the very plan we purfued, by the defire of the
Governor, in not taking any women with us on this jour-
ney, was, he faid, the principal thing that occafioned all
our wants: ‘‘ for, faid he, when all the men are heavy
‘¢ laden, they can neither hunt nor travel to any confider-
*< able diftance; and in cafe they meet with fuccefs in
‘*¢ hunting, who is to carry the produce of their labour?
“<< Women, added jhe, were made-for labour; one oF
‘© them can carry, or haul, as much as two men can do,
¢¢) They alfo pitch our tents, make and mend our cloth-
amg, keep us warml at! might; and, in fact, there is
*‘ no fuch thing as travelling any confiderable diftance,
or for any length of time, in this country, without
“ their affliflance.” ‘‘ Women, faid he again, though
*¢ they do every thing, are maintained at a trifling ex-
© pence; for as they always ftand cook, the very licking
‘*< of their fingers in fcarce times, is fufficient for their
* fubfiftence.””. This, however odd it may appear, is but
too true a defcription of the fituation of women in this
country: it is at leaft fo in appearance; for the women
always carry the provifions, and it is more than probable
they help themfelves when the men are not prefent.

Early in the morning of the twenty-third, I ftruck out
of the road to the Eaftward, with my two companions

and two or three Northern Indians, while Matonabbee and

his crew continued their courfe to the Factory, promifing
to

5S

1770.
October.

56

vf 770+
OGober.
25th. |

November
rit.

A, JOURNEY TO THE

to walk fo flow that we might come up with them again;
and in two days we arrived at the place to which we were
directed. We went to work immediately in making fnow-
fhoe frames and fledges; but notwithftanding our utmoft

endeavours, we could not complete them in lefs than four

days. On the farft of November we again proceeded on
our journey toward the Factory; andon the fixth, came up
with Matonabbee and his gang: after which we proceeded

on together feveral days; when I found my new acquaint-

ance, on all occafions, the moft fociable, kind, and fenfible
Indian I had ever met with. - He was a man well known,
and, as an Indian, of univerfal knowledge, and gene-

rally refpected.

Deer proved pretty plentiful for fome time, but to my
great furprife, when I wanted to give Matonabbee a little
ammunition for his own ufe, I found that my guide, Con-
reaquefe, who had it all under his care, had fo embezzled
or otherways expended it, that only ten:balls and about
three pounds of powder remained; fo that long before
we arrived at the Fort we were obliged to cut up an
ice-chiffel into fquare lumps, as a fubftitute for ball,
It is, however, rather dangerous firing lumps of iron
out of fuch flight barrels as are brought to this part
of the world for trade. Thefe, though light and
handy, and of courfe well adapted for the ufe of both
Enelifh and Indians in long journies, and of fufficient
{trength for leaden fhot or fe are not ftrong enough for

this

NOR THE R NGO CH AN.

this kind of fhot; and ftrong fowling-pieces would not
only be too heavy for the laborious ways of hunting in
this country, but their bores being fo much larger, would
require more than double the quantity of ammunition that
{mall ones do; which, to Indians at leaft, muft be an
abject of no inconfiderable importance.

I kept company with Matonabbee till the twentieth, at
which time the deer began to be fo {carce that hardly a
frefh track could be feen; and as we were then but a

few days walk from the Fort, he advifed me to proceed

on with all fpeed, while he and his companions followed
at leifure. Accordingly, on the twenty-firft, I fet out
poit-hafte, accompanied by one of the home-guard
(Southern) Tribe, and three Northern Indians. That night
we lay on the South fide of Ege River; but, long before
day-break the next morning, the weather became fo bad,

with a violent gale of wind from the North Weft, and

fuch a drift of fnow, that we could not have a bit of fire:
and as no guod woods were near to afford us fhelter, we
| agteed. to proceed on our way; efpecially as the wind
was on our backs, and though the weather was bad near
the furface, we could frequently {ee the moon, and fome-
times the flars, to dire&t us in our courfe. In this fitua-
tion we continued walking the whole day, and it was not
till after ten at night that we could find the fmalleft tuft
of woods to put up in; for though we well knew we
muft have pafled by feveral hummocks of fhrubby woods

| I that

57
1770¢

Nem = ee |
November.

20th.

ari.

58

I 77086
(meen)

November.

23d.

AU 7 OU ® Nw IO more

that might have afforded us fome fhelter, yet the wind —
blew fo hard, and the fnow drifted fo exceflively thick, that
we could not fee ten yards before us the whole day. Be-
tween feven and eight in the evening my dog, a valuable
brute, was frozen to death; fo that his fledge, which was
a very heavy one, I was obliged to haul. Between nine
and ten at night we arrived at a {mall creek, on which we
walked about three quarters of amile, when we came to a
large tuft of tall willows, and two or three fets of old
tent-poles. Being much jaded, we determined not to pro-
ceed any farther that night; fo we went to work, and
made the beft defence againft the weather that the fitua-
tion of the place and our materials would admit. Our
labour confifted only in digging a hole in the fnow, and
fixing a few deer-fkins up to windward of us: but the
moft difficult tafk was that of making a fire. When this
was once accomplifhed, the old tent-poles amply fupplied
us with fewel. By the time we had finifhed this. bufinefs,.
the weather began to moderate, and the drift greatly to:
abate; fo that the moon and the Aurora Borealis fhone
out with great {plendor, and there appeared every fymp-
tom of the return of fine weather. After eating a plentiful
fupper of venifon, therefore, of which we had a fufficient
ftock to laft us to the,Fort, we laid down and got a little
fleep. The next day proving fine and clear, though ex-
ceffively fharp, we proceeded on our journey early in the
morning, and at night lay on the South Eaft fide of Seal
River. We fhould have made a much longer day’s jour-

ney,

NOR TatE R N OyCdE A) N.

ney, had we not been greatly embarrafled at fetting out,

by a jumble of rocks, which we could not avoid without
going greatly out of our way. Here I muft obferve, that
_ we were more than fortunate in not attempting to leave
the little creek where we had fixed our habitation the
preceding night, as the {pot where we lay was not more
than two or three miles diftant from this dangerous place ;
in which, had we fallen in with it in the night, we mutt

unavoidably have been bewildered, if we had not all

perifhed ; as notwithftanding the advantage of a clear day,
and having ufed every poflible precaution, it was with the
utmoft difficulty that we crofled it without broken limbs.
Indeed it would have been next to an impoflibility to
have done it in the night.

The twenty-fourth and twenty-fifth proved fine clear
weather, though exceflively cold; and in the afternoon of
the latter, we arrived at Prince of Wales's Fort, after
having been abfent eight months and twenty-two days, on
a fruitlefs, or at leaft an unfuccefsful journey.

Mid
1770.

November.

24th,

25th.

60

1770.

November

28th.

A JOURNEW To! Tae

C HOA RLY,

TranfaGtions during our Stay at Prince of Wales’s Fort, and

the former Part of our third Expedition, till our Arrival
at Clowey, where we built Canoes, in May 1771.

Preparations for our departure.—Refufe to take any of the bome-guard

Indians with me.—By fo doing, I offend the Governor.—Leave the Fort

. @ third time—My inftruttions on this expedition.—Provifions of all

kinds very fcarce.—Arrive at the woods, where we kill fome deer.— Ar-
vive at Iland Lake.—Matonabbee taken ill—Some remarks thereon.—
‘Foin the remainder of the Indians’ families.—Leave Iland Lake-—De-
feription thereof:—Deer plentiful. Meet a flrange Indian.— Alter our
courfe from Weft North Weft to Weft by South.—Crofs Cathawhachaga
River, Coffed Lake, Snow-Bird Lake, and Pike Lake.— Arrive at a tent
of firangers, who are employed in fuaring deer in a pound.—Defeription
of the pound.— Method of proceeding. — Remarks thereon.—Proceed on
our journey.— Meet with feveral parties of Indians ; by one of whom
I fent a Letter to the Governor at Prince of Wales's Fort.—Arrive at
Thleweyazayeth.— Employment there.—Proceed to the North North
Weft and North.—Arrive at Clowey.—One of the Indian’s wives taken
in labour.—Remarks thereon.—Cuftoms obferved by the Northern In-
dians on thofe occafions.

N my arrival at the Fort, I informed the Governor, of
Matonabbee’s being fo near. On the twenty-eighth

of November he arrived. Notwithftanding the many
difficulties and hardfhips which I had undergone during

my two unfuccefsful attempts, I was fo far from being

folicited

NORTHERN WO CIE A N. 61

folicited on this occafion to undertake a third excurfion, 1770.
that I willingly offered my fervice ; which was readily ac- November.
cepted, as my abilities and approved courage, in perfe-
_vering under difficulties, were pe aa noways inferior to

the tal,

I then determined to engage Matonabbee to be my
guide; to which he readily confented, and with a freedom
of f{peech and correéinefs of language not commonly met
with among Indians, not only pointed out the reafons
which had occafioned all our misfortunes in my two former
attempts, but defcribed the plan he intended to purfue ;
which at the fame time that it was highly fatisfactory to me,
did honour to his penetration and judgment ; as it proved
him to be a man of extenfive obfervation with refpect to
times, feafons, and places; and well qualified to explain
every thing that could caentribute either to facilitate or re-
tard the eafe or progrefs of travelling in thofe dreary parts.
of the world.

Having engaged Matonabbee, therefore, as my guide,.
I began to make preparations for our departure; but Mr.
Norton, the Governor, having been very fully occupied
in trading with a large body of Indians, it was the feventh December
of December before 1 could obtain from him my difpatches: ie
It may not be improper to obferve, that he again wanted
to force fome of the home-guard Indians (who were
his

‘62

4970,

(ae
December.

A JOURNEY TO THE

‘his own relations *) into our company, merely with a view

that they might engrofs all the credit of taking care of
‘hy me

* Mr. Norton was an Indian; he was born at Prince of Wales’s Fort, but -

‘had been in England nine years, and confidering the fmall fum which was
‘expended in his education, had made fome progrefs in literature. At his re-

turn to Hudfon’s Bay he entered into all the abominable vices of his countrymen.
He kept for his own ufe five or fix of the fineft Indian girls which he could
fele€t; and notwith{tanding his own uncommon propenfity to the fair fex,
took every means in his power to prevent any European from having inter-

-courfe with the women of the country; for which purpofe he proceeded to

the moft ridiculous length. To his own friends and country he was fo partial,
that he fet more value on, and fhewed more refpect to one of their favourite
dogs, than he ever did to his firft officer. Among his miferable and ignorant
countrymen he paffed for a proficient in phyfic, and always kept a box of
poifon, to adminifter to thofe who refufed him their wives or daughters.

With all thefe bad qualities, no man took more pains to inculcate virtue,
morality, and continence on others; always painting, in the moft odious co-
lours, the jealous and revengeful difpofition of the Indians, when any attempt
was made to violate the chaftity of their wives or daughters. Lectures of this
kind from a man of eftablifhed virtue might have had fome effect; but when
they came from one who was known to live in open defiance of every law,
human and divine, they were always heard with indignation, and confidered
as the hypocritical cant of a felfifh debauchee, who wifhed to engrofs every
woman in the country to himfelf.

His apartments were not only convenient but elegant, and always crowded
with favourite Indians: at night he locked the doors, and put the keys under’
his pillow; fo that in the morning his dining-room was generally, for the want
of neceffary conveniencies, worfe than a hog-ftye. As he advanced in years
his jealoufy increafed, and he actually poifoned two of his women becaufe he
thought them partial to other objects more fuitable to their ages. He was a
moft notorious fmuggler; but though he put many thoufands into the pockets
of the Captains, he feldom put a fhilling into his own.

3 | An

NORTHERN OCEAN.

me during the journey: but I had found them of fo little
ufe in my two former attempts, that I abfolutely refuted
them; and by fo doing, offended Mr. Norton to fuch a

degree, that neither time nor abfence could ever after-.

wards eradicate his diflike of me; fo that at my return he
ufed every means in his power to treat me ill, and to
render my life unhappy. However, to deal with candour
on this occafion, it muft be acknowledged to his honour,
that whatever our private animofities might have been,
he did not fuffer them to interfere with public bufinefs ;

and I was fitted out with ammunition, and every other

article which Matonabbee thought could be wanted. I

was alfo furnifhed, as before, with a finall affortment
of light trading goods, as prefents to the far diftant.

Indians.

At laft I fucceeded in obtaining my eis which.

were as follows :

An inflammation in his bowels -occafioned’ his death on the goth of De-

eember 1773; and though he died in the moft excruciating pain, he retained:

his jealoufy to the laft; for a few minutes before he expired, happening to fee
an officer laying hold of the hand of one of his women who was ftanding by the
fire, he bellowed out, in as loud a voice as his fituation would admit, “« God
« d—n you forab h, if Plive Pll knock out your brains.”’?’ A few minutes
after making this elegant apoftrophe, he expired in the greateft agonies.-that.
can poffibly be conceived.

This I. declare to be-the real. character and manner of. life of the late Mr..
Mofes Norton,.

“* ORDERS:

63

IO.

December.

64 A JOURNEY: TO THE
1770. |

December. |

“ Orpers and Instructions for’ Mr. Samuey
‘‘ Hearne, gomg on his third Expedition to the
“© Worth of Churchill River, in queft of a North
‘“< Weft Paffage, Copper Mines, or any other thing
‘© that may be ferviceable to the Britifb Nation in
‘“* general, or the Hudfon’s Bay Company in par-

“ gicular's in the yedm 1790.

°¢ Mr. Samuret HEARNE,
“« SIR,

«¢ As you have offered. your fervice a third time to go :
in fearch of the Copper Mine River, &c. and as Ma-
tonabbee, a leading Indian, who has been at thofe
parts, is willing to be your guide, we have accordingly
engaged him for that fervice; but having no other
inftrument on the fame conftruétion with the quadrant —
you had the misfortune to break, we have furnifhed
you with an Elton’s quadrant, being the moft proper

inftrument we can now procure for making obferva-
tions on the land.

“© The above Leader, Matonabbee, and a few of his
beft men, which he has feleéted for that purpofe, are
to provide for you, affift you in all things, and con-
du& you to the Copper Mine River; where you mutt

‘¢ be

w~

¢

€6

Neo R TEWE RON VORCIELA'N.

be careful to obferve the latitude and longitude, alfo
the courfe of the river, the depth of the water, the
fituation of the Copper Mines, &c. but your firft in-
ftructions, of November fixth, one thoufand feven hun-
dred and fixty-nine, being fufficiently full, we refer
you to every part thereof for the better regulation of
your condué during this journey.

se As you and your Indian companions are fitted out
with every thing that we think is neceflary, (or at leaft
as many uleful articles as the nature of travelling in
thofe parts will admit of,) you are hereby defired to
proceed on your journey as foon as poflible ; and your
prefent guide has promifed to take great care of you,
and conduct you out and home with all convenient

{peed.

*€ I conclude with my beft wifhes for your health and
happinefs, together with a fuccefsful journey, and a

quick return in fafety. Amen.

‘¢ (Signed) Moszs Norton, Governor.

“© Dated at Prince of Wales’s Fort,
“© ath December, 1770.”

On the feventh of December I fet out on my third

journey ; and the weather, confidering the feafon of the

year, was for fome days pretty mild. One of Matonab-
bee’s wives being ill, occafioned us to walk fo flow, that

K it

65

1770.
ean ame

December.

ath.

66

1770.

December.

16th.

A SOURN EY) To Tee

it was the thirteenth before we arrived at Seal River; at

which time two men and their wives left us, whofe loads;.
when added to thofe of the remainder of my crew,. made
a very material difference, efpecially as Matonabbee’s wiic-
was fo ill as to be obliged: to be hauled on a-fledge..

Finding deer and all other game very. fearce,. and not .
knowing how long it might be before we could reach any
place where they were in- greater plenty, the Indians:
walked as far each day as their loads and other circum-
{tances would conveniently. permit. On the fixteenth, we
arrived at Egg River, where Matonabbee and the reft of
my crew had laid up fome provi ifions and other neceflaries;
when on their journey to the Fort. On-going to the
place where they thought the. provifions had been care—

- fully fecured from all kinds of wild beafts, they had the

_ mortification to find that fome of their countrymen, with.

whom the Governor had firft traded and difpatched from:
the, Fort, had robbed the ftore of every article, as well as
of fome of their moft ufeful implements. This lofs was
more feverely felt, as there was.a total want of every kind:
of game; and the Indians, not expecting to meet. with.
fo great a difappointment, had not ufed that ceconomy in
the expenditure of the oatmeal and other provifions which.
they had received. at the Fort, as they. probably would have
done, had they not relied firmly on finding a fupply at:
this place. This difappointment and lofs was borne by the
Indians with the greateft fortitude; and I did not hear

one

PAORTHAERNVOGE AN — 67

one of them breathe the leaft hint of revenge in cafe they 1770.
fhould ever difcover the offenders: the a effe@ it had December.
on them was, that of making them put the beft foot fore-

moft. This was thought ie neceflary, that for fome time

we walked every day from morning till night. The days,
however, being fhort, our fledges ae and fome of the

road very bad, our progrefs feldom exceeded fixteen or
eighteen miles a day, and fome days we did not travel fo

much.

On the eighteenth, as we were continuing our courfe «8th:
to the North Weft, up a fmall creck that empties itfelf
into Egg River, we faw the tracks of many deer which
had crofled that part a few days before; at that time there
was not a frefh track to be feen: fome of the Indians,
however, who had lately paffed that way, had killed
more than they had occafion for, fo that feveral joints of
‘good meat were found in their old tent-places; which,
though only fufficient for one good meal, were very ac-
ceptable, as we had been in exceeding ftraitened circum-
ftances for many days.

On the nineteenth, we purfued our courfe in the 19th
North Weft quarter; and, after leaving the above-men-
tioned creck, traverfed nothing but entire barren ground,
with empty bellies, till the twenty-feventh; for though ayn,
we arrived at fome woods on the twenty-fixth, and faw
a few Sa four of which the Indians killed, they were

2 at

68

1770.

December.

Aw JOU RN Bie a TO ore

at fo great a diftance from the place on which we lay, that
it was the twenty-feventh before the meat was brought
to the tents. Here the Indians propofed to continue one
day, under pretence of repairing their fledges and {now
fhoes; but from the little attention they paid to thofe
repairs, I was led to think that the want of food was the
chief thing that detained them, as they never ceafed
eating the whole day. Indeed for many days before we
had been in great want, and for the laft three days had
not tafted a morfel of any thing, except a pipe of tobacco
and a drink of fnow water; and as we walked daily from
morning till night, and were ail heavy laden, our ftreneth
began to fail. I muft confefs that I never {pent fo dulla
Chriftmas; and when I recollected the merry feafon which
was then pafling, and reflected no the immenfe quantities,
and great variety of delicacies which were then expend-
ing in every part of Chriftendom, and that with a pro-
fufion bordering on wafte, I could not refrain from withing
myfelf again in Europe, if it had been only to have had an
opportunity of alleviating the extreme hunger which I
fuffered, with the refufe of the table of any one of my
acquaintance. My Indians, however, ftill kept in good
{pirits; and as we were then acrofs all the barren ground,
and faw a few frefh tracks of deer, they began to think
that the worft of the road was over for that winter, and
flattered me with the expectation of foon meeting with
deer and other game in greater plenty than we had done
fince our‘departure from the Fort.

II Early

NORTHERN OCEAN. 69

Early in the morning of the twenty-eighth, we again 1770.
fet out, and direéted our courfe to the Weftward, through Decanba.
thick fhrubby woods, confifting chiefly of ill-fhaped 78
ftunted pines, with {mall dwarf junipers, intermixed here
and there, particularly round the margins of ponds and
{wamps, with dwarf willow bufhes; and among the rocks

and fides of the hills were alfo fome {mall poplars.

On the thirtieth, we arrived at the Eaft fide of Iland 30m,
Lake, where the Indians killed two large buck deer; but
the rutting feafon was fo lately over, that their flefh was _
only eatable by thofe who could not procure better food.
In the evening, Matonabbee was taken very ill; and from the
nature of his complaint, I judged his illnefs to have pro-
ceeded from the enormous quantity of meat that he had
eat on the twenty-feventh, as he had been indifpofed ever
fince that time. Nothing is more common with thofe
Indians, after they have eat as much at a fitting as would
. ferve fix moderate men, than to find themfelves out of
order; but not one of them can bear to hear that it is the
effect of eating too much: in defence of which they fay,
that the meaneft of the animal creation knows when
hunger is fatisfied, and will leave off accordingly. This,
however, is a falfe aflertion, advanced knowingly in fup-
port of an abfurd argument ; for it is well known by them,
as well as all the Southern Indians, that the black bear,

who, for fize and the delicacy of its flefh, may juftly
be called a refpectable animal, is fo far from knowing

when

70

1770.
ele

December.

gift.

AN J.OUBRNEM 29.0 aman
when its hunger is fatished, that, in the Summer, when
the berries are ripe, it will gorge to fuch a degree, that it
frequently, and even daily, vomits up great quantities of
new-{wallowed fruit, before it has undergone any change
in the ftomach, and immediately renews its repaft with as
much eagernefs as before. !

Notwithftanding the Northern Indians are at times fo

voracious, yet rey bear hunger with a degree of fortitude
which, as Mr. Ellis juftly obferves of the pentaeme Indians,
© is much eafier to admire, than to imitate.” I have

more than once feen the Northern Indians, at the end of
three or four days fafting, as merry and jocofe on the fub-
ject, asif they had voluntarily impofed it on themfelves ;
and would afk each other in the plaineft terms, and in the
merrieft mood, If they had any inclination for an intrigue
with a ftrange woman? I muft acknowledge that examples
of this kind were of infinite fervice to me, as they tended .
to keep up my fpirits on thofe occafions, with a degree of
fortitude that would have been impoflible for me to have
done had the Indians behaved in a contrary manner, and
exprefied any apprehenfion of ftarving.

Early-in the morning of the thirty-firft, we con-
tinued our journey, and walked about fourteen miles
to the Weftward on Ifland Lake, where we fixed our
refidence ; but Matonabbee was at this time fo ill as to
be obliged to be hauled on a fledge the whole day. The

next

NORTHERN OCEAN.

mext morning, however, he fo far recovered as to be ca-
pable of walking; when we proceeded on to the Weft
and Weft by North, about faxteen miles farther on. the
fame Lake,. till we arrived at two tents, which con-
tained the remainder of the wives and families of my
guides, who had been waiting there for the return of their

hufbands from the Fort. Here we found only two men,

though there were upward of twenty women and child-
ren ; and as thofe two men had no gun or ammunition,
they had.no other method of fupporting themfelves and the
women, but by catching ffh, and fnaring a few rabbits ::
the latter were fcarce, but the former were eafily caught in:
-confiderable numbers either with nets or hooks. The

{pecies of fifh generally caught in the nets are tittemeg,,

pike, and barble; and the only forts caught with hooks
are trout, pike, burbut, and a. {mall fifth, erroneoufly.
called by the Englifh tench: the Southern Indians call it
the toothed tittemeg, and the Northern Indians call it
faint eab. They are delicate eating ; being nearly as firm.
as.a perch, and generally very fat. ‘They feldom exceed:
afoot in length, and in fhape much refemble a gurnard,,
except that of having a very long broad fin on the back,
like a perch,, but this fin is not armed with fimilar
fpikes. The feales are large, and of a footy brown..
They are generally moft efteemed when broiled or roafted.
with the feales on, of courfe the {kin is not eaten.

AS

qt

1771.
Nae, arcs

January
itt.

72
r7yi.

January

3d.

A 46 URN PHA WoT F ae

As the Captain [Matonabbee] and one man were indif-
pofed, we did not move on the fecond of January ; but
early in the morning of the third fet out, and walked
about feven miles to the North Weftward, five of which
were on the above mentioned Lake; when the Indians
having killed two deer, we put up for the night.

Ifland Lake (near the center) is in latitude 60° 45°
North, and 102° 25’ Weft longitude, from London ; and
is, at the part we crofled, about thirty-five miles wide:
but from the North Eaft to the South Weft it is much
larger, and entirely full of iflands, fo near to each other
as to make the whole Lake refemble a jumble of ferpentine
rivers and creeks; and it is celebrated by the natives as
abounding with great plenty of fine fifh during the begin-
ning of the Winter. At different parts-of this Lake moft
part of the wives and families of thofe Northern Indians
who vifit Prince of Wales’s Fort in O&ober and Novem-
ber generally refide, and wait for their return ; as there is
little fear of their being in want of provifions, even with-
out the affiftance of a gun and ammunition, which is a
point of real confequence to them. The Lake is plenti-
fully fupplied with water from feveral fmall rivulets and
creeks which run into it at the South Weft end; and it
empties itfelf by means of other fmall rivers which run
to the North Eaft, the principal of which is Nemace-a-
feepee-a-fith, or Little Fifh River. Many of the iflands,

as

NOR WHE R WAGE AN.

as well as the main land round this Lake, abound with
dwarf woods, chiefly pines; but in fome parts intermixed
with larch and {mall birch trees. The land, like all the
re{t which lies to the North of Seal River, is hilly, and full
of rocks; and though none of the hills are high, yet as
few of the woods grow on their fummits, they in general
fhew their fnowy heads far above the woods which grow
in the vallies, or thofe which are fcattered about their fides.

After leaving Ifland Lake, we continued our old courfe

between the Weft and North Weft, and travelled at the

eafy rate of eight or nine miles a day. Provifions of all
kinds were {carce till the fixteenth, when the Indians
killed twelve deer. This induced us to put up, though
early in the day; and finding great plenty of deer in the
neighbourhood of our little encampment, it was agreed
by all parties to remain a few days, in order to dry and
pound fome meat to make it lighter for carriage.

| Having, by the twenty-fecond, provided a fufficient
{tock of provifion, properly prepared, to carry with us, and
repaired our {ledges and {now-fhoes, we again purfued our
courfe in the North Weft quarter; and in the afternoon
fpoke with a ftranger, an Indian, who had one of Mato-
nabbee’s wives under hiscare. He did not remain in our com-
pany above an hour, as he only {moked part of a few pipes
with his friends, and returned to his tent, which could not

L be

75
¥7 ZI.

January.

22d.

7%

1771.
Bcc md

January.

23d.

A Ap JOU RIN HAA STG oP ee

be far diftant from the place where we lay that night, as
the woman and her two children joined us next morning,
before we had taken down our tent and made ready for
moving. 'Thofe people were the firft ftrangers whom we
had met fince we left the Fort, though we had travelled
feveral hundred miles; which is a proof that this part of
the country is but thinly inhabited. It is a truth well
known to the natives, and doubtlefs founded on experi-
ence, that there are many very extenfive trads of land.
in thofe parts, which are incapable of affording fupport to: -
any number of the human race even during the fhort
time they are pafling through them, in the capacity of
migrants, from one place to another; much lefs are they
capable of affording a conftant fupport to thofe who
might wifh to make them their fixed refidence at any.
feafon of the year. It is true, that few rivers or lakes
in thofe parts are entirely deftitute of fifh; but the un-
certainty of meeting with a fufhcient fupply for any con-
fiderable time together, makes the natives very cautious
how they put their whole dependance on that article, as it
has too frequently been the means 9 many hundreds being

{tarved to death.

By the twenty-third, deer were fo plentiful that the In-
dians feemed to think that, unlefs the feafon, contrary to
expectation and general experience, fhould prove unfa-
vourable, there would be no fear of our being in want of

provifions

WORT H E RN OUCE(A N.

provifions during the reft of the Winter, as deer had always
been known to be in great plenty in the direction which
they intended to walk. :

On the third of February, we continued our courfe
to the Weft by North and Weft North Weft, and were fo
near the edge of the woods, that the barren ground was
in fight to the Northward. As the woods trended away
to the Weft, we were obliged to alter our courfe to Weft
by South, for the fake of keeping among them, as well
as the deer. In the courfe of this day’s walk we faw {e-
veral ftrangers, fome of whom remained in our company,
while others went on their refpective ways.

On the fixth, we croffed the main branch of Catha-
whachaga River; which, at that part, is about three quar-
ters of a mile broad ; and after walking three miles farther,
came to the fide of Coffed Whoie, or Partridge Lake;
but the day being far fpent, and the weather exceflively
cold, we put up for the night.

Early in the morning of the feventh, the weather being
ferene and clear, we fet out, and croffed the above mentioned
- Lake; which at that part is about fourteen miles wide; but
from the South South Weft to North North Eaft is much
larger. It is impoffible to defcribe the intenfenefs of the
cold which we experienced this day; and the difpatch we
made in crofling the lakeis almoft incredible, as it was

Leo performed

NT
Qe

1771.
aed

January.

February.
3d.

6th.

76

1771
yaaa |
February.

A JOUR Rew per E

performed by the greateft part of my crew in lefs than
two hours; though fome of the women, who were heavy
laden, took a much longer time. Several of the Indians
were much frozen, but none of them more difagreeably fo
than one of Matonabbee’s wives, whofe thighs and but-
tocks were in a manner incrufted with froft; and when
thawed, feveral blifters arofe, nearly as large as {heeps’ blad-

' ders. ‘The pain the poor woman fuffered on this occafion

was greatly aggravated by the laughter and jeering of her
companions, who faid that fhe was rightly ferved for belt-
ing her clothes fo high. I muft acknowledge that I was
not in the number of thofe who pitied her, as I thought
fhe took too much pains to fhew a clean heel and good
leg; her garters being always in fight, which, though by
no means confidered here as bordering on indecency, is
by far too airy to withftand the rigorous cold of a fe-
vere winter in a high Northern latitude. I doubt not
that the laughter of her companions was excited by fimilar

ideas.

When we got on the Weft fide of Partridge Lake we
continued our courfe for many days toward the Weft by °
South and Weft South Weft; when deer were fo plentiful,
and the Indians killed fuch vaft numbers, that notwith-
ftanding we frequently remained three, four, or five days
in a place, to eat up the fpoils of our hunting, yet at our
departure we frequently left great quantities of good meat
behind us, which we could neither eat nor carry with us.

This

NORTHERN OCEAN.

This condué is the more excufable among people whofe
wandering manner of life and contraéted ideas make
every thing appear to them as the effect of mere chance.
The great uncertainty of their ever vifiting this or that
part a fecond time, induces them to think there is nothing
either wrong or improvident in living on the beft the
country will afford, as they are pafling through it from
place to place; and they feem willing that thofe who come
after them fhould take their chance, as they have done.

On the twenty-frft, ee crofled The-whole-kyed

Whoie, or Snowbird Lake, which at that part was about
twelve or thirteen miles wide, though from North to South
it is much larger. As deer were as plentiful as before, we
expended much time in killing and eating them. This
Matonabbee affured me was the beft way we could em-
ploy ourfelves, as the feafon would by no means permit us
to proceed in a direct line for the Copper-mine River ; but
when the Spring advanced, and the deer began to draw out
to the barren ground, he would then, he faid, proceed in
fuch a manner as to leave no room to doubt of our arrival
at the Copper-mine River in proper time.

On the fecond of March, we lay by the fide of Whool-
dyah’d Whoie or Pike Lake, and not far from Doo-baunt
Whoie River. On the next day we began to crofs the above
mentoned Lake, but after walking feven miles on it to the
Welt South Welt, we arrived at a large tent of Northern

Indians,

77

4777:
February.

aif.

March

78

1771.
an mee
March.

A JOURNEY TO THE

Indians, who had been living there from the beginning
of the Winter, and had found a plentiful fubfftence by
catching deer ina pound. ‘This kind of Samat is
performed in the following manner :

When the Indians defign to auateed deer, they look
out for one of the paths in which a number of them
have trod, and which is obferved to be ftill frequented by
them. When thefe paths crofs a lake, a wide river, or a
barren plain, they are found to be much the beft for the
purpofe ; and if the path run through a clufter of woods,
capable of affording materials for building the pound, it
adds confiderably to the commodioufnefs of the fituation.
The pound is built by making a ftrong fence with brufhy
trees, without obferving any degree of regularity, and the
work is continued to any extent, according to the pleafure
of the builders. I have feen fome that were not lefs than
a mile round, and am informed that there are others ftill
more extenfive. The door, or entrance of the pound,
is not larger than a common gate, and the infide is fo
crowded with {mall counter-hedges as very much to re-
femble a maze; in every opening of which they fet a fnare,
made with thongs of parchment deer-fkins well twifted
together, which are amazingly ftrong. One end of the »
fnare is ufually made faft to a growing pole; but if no
one of a fufficient fize can be found near the place where
the fnare is fet, a loofe pole is fubftituted in its room, which
is always of fuch fize and length that a deer cannot drag it

far

NORTHERN OCEAN.

far before it gets entangled among the other woods, which
are all left ftanding except what is found neceffary for
making the fence, hedges, &e.

The pound being thus prepared, a row of {mall brufh-
wood is ftuck up in the fnow on each fide the door or
entrance; and thefe hedge-rows are continued along the
open part of the lake, river, or plain, where neither ftick
nor ftump befides is to be feen, which makes them the

more diftinly obferved. Thefe poles, or brufh-wood, —
are generally placed at the diftance of fifteen or twenty

yards from each other, and ranged in fuch a manner as to

form two fides of a long acute angle, growing gradually
wider in proportion to the diftance they extend from the
entrance of the pound, which fometimes is not lefs than:
two or three miles; while the deer’s path is exactly

along the middle, between the two rows of brufh-wood..

Indians employed on this fervice always pitch their tent:
on or near to an eminence that affords a commanding pro-
{pect of the path leading to the pound; and when they
fee any deer going that way, men, women, and child-
ren walk along the lake or river-fide under cover of the

woods, till they get behind them, then ftep forth to:

open view, and proceed towards the pound in the form
of a crefcent. The poor timorous deer finding them-
felves purfued, and at the fame time taking the two rows.

of brufhy poleds to be two ranks of people ftationed.

3 to;

79

1771.
March.

80

1771.
March.

A JOUR NEW) DO. (me

to prevent their pafling on either fide, run ftraight for-
ward in the path till they get into the pound. The In-
dians then clofe in, and block up the entrance with fome
brufhy trees, that have been cut down and lie at hand.
for that purpofe. The deer being thus enclofed, the
women and children walk round the pound, to prevent
them from breaking or jumping over the fence, while the
men are employed fpearing fuch as are entangled in the
fnares, and fhooting with bows and arrows thofe which.
remain loofe in the pound.

This method of hunting, if it deferve the name, is fome-
times fo fuccefsful, that many families fubfift by it with-
out having occafion to move their tents above once or twice
during the courfe of a whole winter; and when the
Spring advances, both the deer and Indians draw out to
the Eaftward, on the ground which is entirely barren, or
at leaft what is fo called in thofe parts, as it neither pro- .
duces trees or fhrubs of any kind, fo that mofs and
fome little grafs is all the herbage which is to be found on
it. Such an eafy way of procuring a comfortable main-
tenance in the Winter months, (which is by far the worft
time of the year,) is wonderfully well adapted to the fup-
port of the aged and infirm, but is too apt to occafion
a habitual indolence in the young and attive, who fre-
quently {pend a whole Winter in this indolent man-
ner: and as thofe parts of the country are almoft def-

titute of every animal of the furr kind, it cannot be fup-

pofed -

NOR DCMER N 'O'G-E A:N.

pofed that thofe who indulge themfelves in this indolent
method of procuring food can be mafters of any thing
for trade; whereas thofe who do not get their livelihood
at fo eafy a rate, generally procure furrs enough during
the Winter to purchafe a fufhicient fupply of ammunition,
and other European goods, to laft them another year.
This is nearly the language of the more induftrious among
them, who, of courfe, are of moft importance and value
to the Hudfon’s Bay Company, as it is from them the
furrs are procured which compofe the greateft part of
Churchill trade. But in my opinion, there cannot exift a
{ftronger proof that mankind was not created to enjoy hap-
pinefs in this world, than the conduct of the miferable
beings who inhabit this wretclied part of it; as none but
the aged and infirm, the women and children, a few of
the more indolent and unambitious part of them, will
fubmit to remain in the parts where ‘food and clothing
are procured in this eafy manner, becaufe no animals are
produced there whofe furrs are valuable. And what do the
more induftrious gain by giving themfelves all this addi-
tional trouble? The real wants of thefe people are few,
and eafily fupplied; a hatchet, an ice-chiffel, a file, and
a knife, are all that is required to enable them, with a little
—induftry, to procure a comfortable livelihood; and thofe
who endeavour to pofiefs more, are always the moit un-
happy, and may, in faét, be faid to be only flaves and
carriers to the reft, whofe ambition never leads them
to any thing beyond the means of procuring food.
and

8i

1771.
ae

March,

82

oat.
March.

‘AL LOM oRON aay OL, ELLE

and clothing. It is true, the carriers pride themfelves

~ much on the refpect which is fhewn to them at the

Factory ; to obtain which they frequently run great ri{ques
of being ftarved to death in their way thither and back ;
and all that they can poflibly get there for the furrs they
procure after a year’s toil, feldom amounts to more than is
fufficient to yield a bare fubfiftence, and a few furrs for
the enfuing year’s market; while thofe whom they call
indolent and mean-fpirited live generally in a ftate of
plenty, without trouble or rif{que ; and confequently muft
be the moft happy, and, in truth, the moft independent
alfo. It muft be allowed that they are by far the greateft
philofophers, as they never give themfelves the trouble to
acquire what they can do well enough without. The
deer they kill, furnifhes them with food, and a variety of

“warm and comfortable clothing, either with or without

the hair, according as the feafons require ; and it muft be
very hard indeed, if they cannot get furrs enough in the
courfe of two or three years, to purchafea hatchet, and fuch
other edge-tools as are neceflary for their purpofe.. In-
deed, thofe who take no concern at all about procuring

furrs, have generally an opportunity of providing them-—
felves with all their real wants from their more induftrious
countrymen, in exchange for provifions, and ready-dreffed.

fkins for clothing.

It is undoubtedly the duty of every one of the Com-
pany’s fervants to. encourage a {pirit of induftry among

NOR PHERN* @C HA N.

the natives, and to ufe every means in their power to in-
duce them to procure furrs and other commodities for trade,
by afluring them of a ready purchafe and good payment
for every thing they bring to the Fa@tory: and I can truly
fay, that this has ever been the grand object of my at-
tention. But I muft at the fame time confefs, that fuch
condué& is by no means for the real benefit of the poor
Indians; it being well known that thofe who have the leaft
intercourfe with the Factories, are by far the happieft. As
their whole aim is to procure a comfortable fubfiftence,
they take the moft prudent methods toaccomplifhit ; and
by always following the lead of the deer, are feldom ex-
pofed to the griping hand of famine, fo frequently felt by
thofe who are called the annual traders. It is true, that
there are few of the Indians, whofe manner of life I have
yuft deferibed, but have once in their lives at leaft vifited
Prince of Wales’s Fort; and the hardfhips and dangers
which moft of them experienced on thofe occafions, have
left fuch a lafting impreflion on their minds, that nothing
can induce them to repeat their vifits: nor is it, in fa&,

the intereft of the Company that people of this eafy turn, |

and who require only as much iron-work at a time as can
be purchafed with three or four beaver fkins, and that
only once in two or three years, fhould be invited to the
Factories ; becaufe what they beg and fteal while there,
is worth, in the way of trade, three times the quantity
of furrs which they bring. For this reafon, it is much
more for the intereft of ‘the Company. that the an-

| Ma nual

83
1771.

ee |
March,

84

1771.
\ ___ —__y
March.

Athe.

Ay JOURNEM (7:0 ok

nual traders fhould buy up all thofe {mall quantities of .
furrs, and. bring them in their own name, than that a
parcel of beggars fhould be encouraged to come to the
Factory with {carcely as many furrs as will pay: for the

victuals they eat while they are on. the plantation.. °

I have often heard it obferved, that. the Indians who
attend the deer-pounds might, in the courfe of a Win-
ter, colle&. a vaft number of pelts, which would well
deferve the attentton of thofe who are called carriers or
traders ; but it is a truth, though unknown to thofe fpe-
culators, that the deer fkins at that feafon are not only as:
thin as a bladder, but are alfo full of warbles, which ren-
der them of little or no value. Indeed, were they a more
marketable commodity than they really are, the remote
fituation of thofe pounds from the Company’s Faéories;
muft for ever be an unfurmountable barrier to. the Indians.
bringing any of thofe fkins totrade. The fame obfervation
may be made of: all the other Northern Indians, whofe chief
fupport, the whole year-round, is venifon ; but the want of
heavy draught in Winter, and. water-carriage in Summer,
will not permit them to bring many deer fkins to market,
not even thofe that are in feafon, and for which there has
always been great encouragement given.

We ftopped only one night. in company with the In-
dians. whom we met on Pike Lake, and in the morning
of the fourth, proceeded, to crofs.the remainder of that

Lake ;

NORTHERN OCEAN.
Lake; but, though the weather was fine, and though

the Lake was not more than twenty-feven miles broad at
the place where we crofled it, yet the Indians loft fo much
time at play, that it was the feventh before we arrived on
the Weft fide of it. During the whole time we were
crofling it, each night we found either points of land, or
iflands, to put up in. On the eighth, we lay a little to
the Eaft North Eaft of Black Bear Hill, where the In-
dians killed two deer, which were the farft we had feen
for ten days; but having plenty of dried meat. and fat

with us, we were by no means in want during any part |

of that time. On the ninth, we proceeded on our courfe
to the Weftward, and foon met with as great. plenty of
deer as we had feen during any part of our journey;
which, no doubt, made things go on {mooth and eafy:
and as the Spring advanced, the rigour of the Winter na-
turally abated, fo that at times we had fine pleafant
weather over-head, though it was never fo warm as to
occafion any thaw, unlefs in fuch places as lay expofed to
the mid-day fun, and were fheltered from. all the cold

winds. .

On the nineteenth, as we were continuing our courfe to
the Weft and Weft by South, we faw the tracks of feveral
flrangers; and on following the main path, we arrived
that night at five tents of Northern Indians, who had re-
fided there great part of the Winter, f{naring deer in the

fame manner as thofe before mentioned. Indeed, it fhould
feem.

Sth,

goth,

Toth,

86

i771.
March.

2oth.

23d.

26th.

Av FOUR N @4 0 TO Ua

feem that this, as well as fome other places, had been
frequented more than once on this occafion ; for the wood
that had been cut down for fewel, and other ufes, was almoft
incredible. Before morning, the weather became fo bad,

and the {ftorm continued to rage with fuch violence, that we
did not move for feveral days; and as fome of the Indians
we met with at this place were going to Prince of Wales’s

Fort in the Summer, I embraced the opportunity of fending
by them a Letter to the Chief at that Fort, agreeably to the
tenor of my inftructions. By fumming up my courfes and
diftances from my laft obfervation, for the weather at that
time would not permit me to obferve, I judged myfelf to
be in latitude 61° 30° North, and about 10° 60° of longi-
tude to the Weft of Churchill River. This, and fome
accounts of the ufage I received from the natives, with my
opinion of the future fuccefs of the journey, formed the

contents of my Letter.

On the twenty-third, the weather became fine and mo-
derate, fo we once more purfued our way, and the next
day, as well as on the twenty-fixth, faw feveral. more
tents of Northern Indians, who were employed in the
fame manner as thofe we had formerly met; but fome of
them having had bad fuccefs, and being relations or ac-
quaintances of part of my crew, joined our company, and
proceeded with us to the Weftward. Though the deer —
did not then keep regular paths, fo as to enable the In-

dians to catch them in pounds, yet they were to be met

2 with

eNpOUR TEHFE RN (OQ A N.

with in great abundance in {cattered herds; fo that my
companions killed as many as they pleafed with their

7 guns.

We ftill continued our courfe to the Weft and Weft by
South, and on the eighth of April, arrived at a {mall
Lake, called Thelewey-aza-yeth; but with what propriety
it is fo called I cannot difcover, for the meaning. of
Thelewey-aza-yeth is Little Fifh Hill: probably {fo called
from a high hill which ftands on a long point near the
Weft end of the Lake. On an ifland in this Lake we
pitched our tents, and the Indians finding deer very nu-
merous, determined to flay here fome time, in order to
dry and pound meat to take with us; for they well knew,
by the feafon of the year, that the deer were then draw-
ing out to the barren ground, and as the Indians propofed
to walk due North on our leaving the Lake, it was un-
certain when we fhould again meet with any more. As:
feveral Indians had during the Winter joined our party,
our number had now increafed to feven tents, which in
the whole contained not lefs than feventy perfons.

Agreeably to the Indians’ propofals we remained at
Thelewey-aza-yeth ten days; during which time my
companions were bufily employed (at their intervals.
from hunting) in preparing fmall faves of birch-wood,
about one and a quarter inch fquare, and feven or eight
feet long. Thefe ferve as tent-poles all the Summer,

while

87

E771.

March..

April
oth.

88

1771.
(een eed

April.

48th.

AL FOC RIN GE ae Me) ee ed,

while on the barren ground; and as the fall advances, are
converted into fnow-fhoe frames for Winter ufe. Birch-
tind, together with timbers and other wood-work for

building canoes, were alfo another obje& of the Indian’s

attention while at this place; but as the canoes were not

to be fet up till our arrival at Clowey, (which was many
‘miles diftant,) all the wood-work was reduced to its pro-
per fize, for the fake of making it light for carriage.

As to myfelf, I had little to do, except to make a few
obfervations for determining the latitude, bringing up my
journal, and filling up my chart to the prefent time. I
found the latitude of this place 61° 30° North, and its —
longitude, by my account, 19° Weft of Prince of Wales’s
Fort.

Having a good ftock of dried provifiens, and moft of
the neceffary work for canoes all ready, on the eighteenth
we moved about nine cr ten miles to the North North
Weft, and then came toa tent of Northern Indians who
were tenting on the North fide of Thelewey-aza River.
From thefe Indians Matonabbee purchafed another wife ;
fo that he had now no lefs than feven, moft of whom
would for fize have made good grenadiers. He prided
himfelf much in the height and ftrength of his wives, and
would frequently fay, few women would carry or haul
heavier loads; and though they had, in general, a very maf-
culine appearance, yet he preferred them to thofe ofa

more

NORTHERN OCEAN.

more delicate form and moderate ftature. In a eountty
like this, where a partner in exceflive hard labour is the
chief motive for the union, and the fofter endearments
of a conjugal life are only confidered as a fecondary
object, there feems to be great propriety in fuch a choice ;
but if all the men were of this way of thinking, what
would become of the greater part of the women, who in
general are but of low ftature, and many of them of a moft
delicate make, though not of the exacteft proportion, or

moft beautiful mould? ‘Take them ina body, the women —

are as deftitute of real beauty as any nation I ever faw,
though there are fome few of them, when young, who are
tolerable; but the care of a family, added to their con-
ftant hard labour, foon make the moft beautiful among
them look old and wrinkled, even before they are thirty ;
and feveral of the more ordinary ones at that age are perfect
antidotes to love and gallantry. This, however, docs not
render them lefs' dear and valuable to their owners, which
is a lucky circumftance for thofe women, and a certain

proof that there is no fuch thing as any rule or ftandard _

for beauty. Afk a Northern Indian, what is beauty? he
we will anfwer, a broad flat face, fmall eyes, high cheek-
bones, three or four broad black lines a-crofs each cheek,
a low forehead, a large broad chin, a clumfy hook-nofe,
a tawney hide, and breafts hanging down to the belt.
Thofe beauties are greatly heightened, or at leaft rendered
more valuable, when the pofleflor is capable of drefling
all kinds of fkins, converting them into the different parts

oN of

89

1771.
(caren ned)

April.

go

1771.
arn enced

April,

A VW OMRON EY sto Tae

of their clothing, and able to carry eight or ten * ftone
in Summer, or haul a much greater weight in Winter.
Thefe, and other fimilar accomplifhments, are all that
are fought after, or expected, of a Northern Indian.woman.
As to their temper, it is of little confequence ; forthe men
have a wonderful facility in making the moft ftubborn
comply with as much alacrity as could poflibly be expeéted
from thofe of the mildeft and-moft obliging turn of mind;
fo that the.only real difference is, the one obeys through fear,
and the other complies cheerfully from a willing mind; both
knowing that what is commanded muft be done. They
are, in fact, all kept at a great diftance, and the rank they
hold in the opinion of the men cannot be better exprefied
or explained, than by obferving the method of treating
or ferving them at meals, which would appear very humi-
liating, to an European woman, though cuftom makes it
fit light on thofe whofe lot itas to bear it. It is neceflary

to obferve, that when the men kill any large beaft, the

women are always fent to bring it to the tent: when it is
brought there, every operation it undergoes, fuch as {plit-
ting, drying, pounding, &c. is performed by the women.
When any thing is to be prepared for eating, it is the
women who cook it; and when it is done, the wives
and daughters of the greateft Captains in the country are
never ferved, till all the males, even thofe who are in the
capacity of fervants, have eaten what they think proper ;

* The ftone here meant is fourteen pounds,
and

NORTHERN OCEAN.

and in times’of {carcity it is frequently their lot' to be left
without a fingle morfel. It is, however, natural to think
they take the liberty of helping themfelves in fecret ; but
this’ muft be done with great prudence, as capital em-
bezzlements of provifions in fuch times are looked on as
affairs of real’ confequence, and frequently fubje&t them’ to
a very fevere beating. If they are practifed by a woman
whofe youth and inattention to domeftic concerns cannot
plead in her favour, they will for ever be a‘blot in her
character, and few men will chufe to have her for'a wife.

Finding plenty of good birch growing by’ the fide of
Theley-aza River, we remained there for a few days, in
order to complete all’ the’ wood-work' for the canoes, as
well as for every other ‘ufé' for which we could poflibly
want it-on’ the barren’ ground, during our Summer’s
cruife. On the twentieth, Matonabbee fent one of his
brothers, and fome others, a-head, with birch-rind and
wood-work for a’canoe, and gave them orders to proceed
to'a fmall Lake near the barren ground called Clowey,
where they were defired'to make all poffible hafte in build-

ing thecanoe, that it might be ready on our arrival.

Having finifhed fuch wood-work as the Indians thought
would be neceffary, and having augmented our ftock
of dried meat and fat, the twenty-firft was appointed
for moving; but one of the women having been taken
in labour, and it being rather an extraordinary cafe, we

2s WETE

2oth.

92

Wylie
(eee ceed
April.

Ar} OURNEY flO; Ti

were detained more than two days. ‘The inftant, how-
ever, the poor woman was delivered, which was not
until fhe had fuffered all the pains ufually felt on thofe
occafions for near fifty-two hours, the fional was made
formoving when the poor creature OE her infant on
her back and fet out with the reft of the company ;
and though another perfon had the humanity to haul
her fledge for her, (for one day only,) fhe was oblized to
carry a confiderable load befide her little charge, nnd was
frequently obliged to wade knee-deep in water and wet
fnow. Her very looks, exclufive of her moans, were a
fuficient proof of the great pain fhe endured, Peel
that although fhe was a perfon I greatly difliked, her dif
trefs at this time fo overcame my prejudice, that I never
felt more for any of her fex in my life; indeed her fighs
pierced me to the foul, and rendered me very miferable,
as it was not in my power to relieve her.

When a Northern Indian woman is taken in labour,
a {mall tent is erected for her, at fuch a diftance from
the other tents that her cries cannot eafily be heard,
and the other women and young girls are her conftant
vifitants: no male, except children in arms, ever offers
to approach her. It isa circumftance perhaps to be la-
mented, that thefe people never attempt to affift each
other on thofe occafions, even in the moft critical cafes.
This is in fome meafure owing to delicacy, but more pro-
bably to an opinion they entertain that nature is abun-

dantly

NOR TIRE RN (OWGLE\ AN.

dantly fufficient to perform every thing required, without
any external help whatever. When I informed them
He the affiftance which European women derive from
the fkill and attention of out midwives, they treated it
with the utmoft contempt; ironically obferving, ‘‘ that
‘© the many hump-backs, bandy-legs, and other deformi-
‘ ties, fo frequent among the Englifh, were undoubtedly
‘¢ owing to the great {kill of the perfons who affifted in
‘ bringing them into the world, and to the extraordinary
“© care of their nurfes afterward.”

wa

A”

A Northern Indian woman after child-birth is rec-
koned unclean for a month or five weeks; during which
time fhe always remains in a {mall tent placed at a little
diftance from the others, with only a female acquaintance
or two; and during the whole time the father never fees
the child. Their reafon for this praétice is, that children
when firft born are fometimes not very fightly, having in
general large heads, and but little hair, and are, moreover,
often difcoloured by the force of the labour; fo that were
the father to fee them to fuch great difadvantage, he might
probably take a diflike to them, which never afterward
could be removed.

The names of the children are always given to them
by the parents, or fome perfon near of kin. Thofe of the
boys are various, and generally derived from fome place,
{eafon, or animal; the names of the girls are chiefly

taken

93

1771.
April.

94

1771.
ee)

April,

23d,

May
3d.

A MOURN EP oF Tae

taken from fome part or property of a Martin; fuch
as, the White Martin, the Black Martin, the Summer
Martin, the Martin’s Head, the Martin’s Foot, the Martin’s
Heart, the Martin’s Tail, &c. *

On the twenty-third, as I hinted above, we began
to move forward, and to fhape our courfe nearly North;
but the weather was in general fo hot, and fo much fnow
had, in confequence, been melted, as made it bad walking
in {now-fhoes, and fuch exceeding heavy hauling, that it
was the third of May before we could arrive at Clowey,
though the diftance was not above eighty-five miles from

‘Thelewey-aza-yeth. In our way we crofied part of two

{mall Lakes, called Tittameg Lake and Scartack Lake ;
neither of which are of any note, though both abound
with ‘fine fifh.

* Matonabbee had eight wives, and.they were all called Martins,

CHAP.

NOR TH ER N O;C-EsA N, 95

CO ee ON Er a

Tranfactions at Clowey, and on our Journey, till our
Arrival at the Copper-mine River.

Several firange Indians join us.—Indians employed building canoes ; de-
feription and ufe of them.—More Indians join us, to the amount of
jome hundreds.—Leave Clowey.—Receive intelligence that Keelfbies
was near us.—Iwo young men difpatched for my letters and gvods.—
Arrive at Pefbew Lake ; crofs part of it, and make a large fmoke.—
One of Matonabbee’s wives elopes.—Some remarks on the natives. —Keel-
Ibies joins us, and delivers my letters, but the goods were all expended.
—<A Northern Indian wifbes to take one of Matonabbee’s wives
from him ; matters compromifed, but had like to have proved fatai fo
my progre/s.—Crofs Pefbew Lake, when I make proper arrangements for
the remainder of my journcy.—Many Indians join our party, in order
to make war on the Efquimaux at the Copper River.—Preparations
made for that purpofe while at Clowey.—Proceed on our journey to the
North.—Some remarks on the way.—Crofs Cogead Lake on the ice.—
The Sun did not fet.—Arrive at Congecathawhachaga.—Ilind feveral
Copper Indians there.—Remarks and tranfactions during our flay at
Congecathawhachaga.—Proceed on our journey.—Weather very bad.—
Arrive at the Stoney Mountains.—Some account of them.—Crofs part
of Buffalo Lake on the ice.—Saw many mufk-oxen.—Defcription of
them.—Went with fome Indians to view Grizzle-bear Hill.—Foin a
ftrange Northern Indian Leader, called O'lye, in company with fome
Copper Indians.—Their behaviour to me.—Arrive at the Copper-mine
River.

; i ‘HIE Lake Clowey is not much more than twelve 1791.
miles broad in the wideft part. A {mall river which “]—~
runs into it on the Weft fide, is faid by the Indians to ?

join the Athapufcow Lake. |
2 On

18th.

roth.

20th.

A OUR NA tO ea,

On our arrival at Clowey on the third of May, we
found that the Captain’s brother, and thofe who were fent
a-head with him from Theley-aza River, had only got
there two days before us; and, on. account of the weather,
had not made the leaft progrefs in building the canoe, the
plan of which they had taken with them. The fame day
we got to Clowey feveral other Indians joined us from
Grete quarters, with intent to build their canoes at the
fame place. Some of thofe Indians had refided within
four or five miles, to the South Eaft of Clowey all the
Winter; and had procured a plentiful livelihood by
fnaring deer, in the manner which has been already de-

{cribed.

Immediately after our arrival at Clowey, the Indians
began to build their canoes, and embraced every conve-
nient opportunity for that purpofe: but as warm and dry
weather only is fit for this bufinefs, which was by no
means the cafe at prefent, it was the eighteenth of May
before the canoes belonging to my party could be com-
pleted. On the nineteenth we agreed to proceed on our
journey; but Matonabbee’s canoe meeting with fome
damage, which took near a whole day to repair, we were
detained till the twentieth.

Phofe veils, though made of the fame materials with
‘.the’S uth etn Indians, differ from them both

n; they are allo much {maller and

lighter,

NOR TIGER N: \OCE AN.

lighter; and though very flight and fimple in their con-
ftruction, are neverthelefs the beft that could poffibly be
contrived for the ufe of thofe poor people, who are fre-
quently obliged to carry them a hundred, and fometimes
a hundred and fifty miles at a time, without having occa-

fion to put them into the water. Indeed, the chief ufe of -

thefe canoes is to ferry over unfordable rivers; though
fometimes, and at a few places, it muft be acknowledged,
that they are of great fervice in killing deer, as they enable
the Indians to crofs rivers and the narrow parts of lakes;

they are alfo ufeful in killing fwans, geefe, ducks, &c. in |

_ the moulting feafon.

All the tools ufed by an Indian in building his canoe,
as well as in making his fnow-fhoes, and every other kind
of wood-work, confift of a hatchet, a knife, a file, and
an awl; in the ufe of which they are fo dextrous, that
every thing they make is executed with a neatnefs not to
be excelled by the moft expert mechanic, affifted with
every tool he could with.

In fhape the Northern Indian canoe bears fome refem-
blance to a weaver’s fhuttle; being flat-bottomed, with
ftraight upright fides, and fharp at each end; but the ftern
is by far the wideft part, as there the baggage is generally
laid, and occafionally a fecond perfon, who always liesdown
at full length in the bottom of the canoe. In this man-
ner they carry one another acrofs rivers and the narrow

O parts —

97

1771.
Sanaa

May.

98

I77{.
mame

May.

A JFOURNEWE TO THE

parts of lakes in thofe little veffels, which feldom exceed
twelve or thirteen feet in length, and are from twenty -
inches to two feet broad in the wideft part. The head,
or fore part, is unneceflarily long, and narrow; and
is all covered over with birch-bark, which adds confider-
ably to the weight, without contributing to the burthen
of the veffel. In general, thefe Indians make ufe of the
fingle paddle, though a few have double ones, like the
Efquimaux: the latter, however, are feldom ufed, but
by thofe who lie in wait to kill an as they crofs rivers
and narrow lakes *

During our ftay at Clowey we were joined by upward
of two hundred Indians from different quarters, moft of
whom built canoes at this place; but as I was under the
protection of a principal man, no one offered to moleft

* See Plate IV. where Fig. A reprefents the bottom of the canoe, Fig. B
being the fore-part. Fig. C is the complete frame of one before it is covered
with the bark of the birch-tree: it is reprefented on an artificial bank, which
the natives raife to build it on. Fig. D is an end-view of a fet of timbers,
bent and lafhed in their proper fhape, and left to dry. Fig. E is the repre-
fentation of a complete canoe. Fig. F reprefents one of their paddles.
Fig. G a fpear with which they kill deer; and Fig. H, their mode of carrying
the canoe. n

The following references are to the feveral parts of the canoe: Fig. C.
1. The ftem. 2. The ftern-poft. 3. Two forked fticks fupporting the
ftem and ftern-poft. 4. The gunwales. 5. Small rods placed between the ©
ee and birch-back that covers them. 6. Thetimbers. 7. The keelfon.

. Large ftones placed there to keep the bottom fteady till the fides are
pale on,

Me,

To face Page 93

Reference Ei Reference to the Skeleton .
A. The Bottom of the Canoe . Z i The Stem.
B Theforepart . —— ——— 2 Stern post .

C The Frame, compleat . 3 glwo forked Sticks, supporting the Stem & Stern .

D A Set of Timbers bert and lashed, in their proper £ 4 The Gunwalls ,
shape for deying. 5 Small Rods placed between the Hinhers, the Birchrind . —
E A Canoe compleat . 6 The Timbers .
F A Paddle . 7 Vhe Kdsin .
GA Spear to kill Deer with in the Water . @ Large Stones, to keep the Bottom steady, till the Judes

H The method of carrying the Canoe in Summer. are sewed lo .

NOR THE RN jO;C BA NM

me, nor can I fay they were very clamorous for any thing
Thad. This was undoubtedly owing to Matonabbee’s in-
forming them of my true fituation; which was, that I
had not, by any means, fufficient neceflaries for myfelf,
much lefs to giveaway. The few goods which I had with
me were intended to be referved for the Copper and Dog-
tibbed Indians, who never vifit the Company’s Factories.
Tobacco was, however, always given away; for every one
of any note, who joined us, expected to be treated with a few

pipes, and on fome occafions it was fcarcely poflible to getoff —

without prefenting a few inches * tothem; which, with
the conftant fupplies which I was cliaed to furnifh my
own crew, decreafed that article of my ftock fo faft, that
notwithftanding I had yet advanced {o {mall a part of my
journey, more than one half of my ftore was expended.
Gun-powder and fhot alfo were articles commonly afked for
by moft of the Indians we met ; and in general thefe were
dealt round to them with a liberal hand by my guide Ma-
tonabbee. I muft, however, do him the juftice to ac-
knowledge, that what he diftributed was all his own,
which he had purchafed at the Factory; to my certain
knowledge he bartered one hundred and fifty martins’
{kins for powder only ; befides a great number of beaver,
and other furrs, for fhot, ball, iron-work, and tobacco,
purpofely to give away among his countrymen ; as he had

certainly as many of thefe articles given to him as were, in -

* The tobacco ufed in Hudfon’s Bay is the Brafil tobacco; which is twifted
into the form of a rope, of near an inch diameter, and then wound into a
large roll; from which it is taken by meafures of length, for the natives.

O 2 his

May.

99

1771.
(cnemen paenenead

May
2oth..

arf.

22d.

A‘ FOURNERS: TO THE

his opinion, fufficient for our fupport during our journey
out and home.

Matonabbee’s canoe having been repaired, on the twen-
tieth we left Clowey, and proceeded Northward. ‘That —
morning a {mall gang of ftrangers joined us, who informed
my guide, that Captain Keelfhies was within a day’s walk
to the Southward. Keelfhies was the man by whom I had
fent a letter to Prince of Wales’s Fort, from Catha-
whachaga, in the beginning of July one thoufand feven
hundred and feventy; but not long after that, having the
misfortune to break my quadrant, I was obliged to return
to the Fort a fecond time; and though we faw many
fmokes, and fpoke with. feveral Indians on my return
that year, yet he and I miffed each other on the barren
ground, and I had not feen or heard of him fince that time.

As Matonabbee was defirous that I fhould receive my
letters, and alfo the goods I had written for, he difpatched
two of his young men: to bring them. We continued
our journey to the Northward; and the next day
faw feveral large fmokes at a great diftance to the Eaftward
on the barren ground, which were fuppofed to be made
by fome parties. of Indians bound to Prince of Wales’s
Fort with. furrs and- other commodities for trade..

On the twenty-fecond and twenty-third, we proceeded.
to the North, at the rate of fourteen or fifteen miles.
a-day; and in the evening of the latter, got clear of all

the

NO ROTVH E.R N GOCE A N.

the woods, and lay on the barren ground. The fame
evening the two young men who were fent for my let-
ters, &c. returned, and told me that Keelfhies had’ pro-
mifed to join us in a few days, and deliver the things to
me with his own hand.

The twenty-fourth proved bad and rainy weather, fo
that we only walked about feven miles, when finding a
- few blafted ftumps of trees, we pitched our tents. It was

well we did fo, for toward night we had exceffively bad

weather, with loud thunder, ftrong lightning, and heavy ~

rain, attended with a very hard gale of wind from the
South Weft; toward the next morning, however, the
wind veered round to the North Weft, and the weather
became intenfely cold and frofty. We walked that day
about eight miles to the Northward, when we were
obliged to put up, being almoft benumbed with cold.
There we found a few dry ftumps, as we had done the day

before, which ferved-us. for fewel *.
The

* [have obferved, during my feveral journies in thofe parts, that all the way

to the North of Seal River the edge of the wood is faced with old withered:

ftumps, and trees which have been blown down by the wind. They are moftly
of the fort which is.called here Juniper, but were feldom of any confiderable
fize. ‘Tnofe blafted trees are found’in fome parts to extend'to the diftance of
twenty miles from the living woods, and detached patches of them are much
farther off ; which is a proof that the cold has been increafing in thofe parts
for fome ages. Indeed, fome of the older Northern Indians have affured me,
that they have heard their fathers and grandfathers fay, they remembered the

preateft part of thofe places where the trees are now blafted and dead, in a
flourifhing:,

10%

bat.
May.

24th,

102

i771.

May
26th.

\
27tn.

28th.

AATOWR NERY NTO! ONE E

The weather on the twenty-fixth was fo bad, with fhow
and thick drifting fleet, that we did not move; but the
next morning proving fine and pleafant, we dried our
things, and walked about twelve miles to the Northward ;
moft of the way on the ice of a fmall river which runs
into Pefhew Lake *. We then faw a fmoke to the South-
ward, which we judged to be made by Keelfhies, fo we
put up for the night by the fide of the above-mentioned
Lake, where I expected we fhould have waited for his
arrival; but, to my great furprize, on the morrow we
again fet forward, and walked twenty-two miles to the
Northward on Pefhew Lake, and in the afternoon pitched
our tents on an ifland, where, by my defire, the Indians
made a large {moke, and propofed to ftay a day or two for
Captain Keelfhies.

In the night, one of Matonabbee’s wives and another
woman eloped: it was fuppofed they went off to the
Eaftward, in order to meet their former hufbands, from

flourifhing ftate ; and that they were remarkable for abounding with deer. It
is a well-known fact, that many deer are fond of frequenting thofe plains
where the juniper trees abound near barren grounds, particularly in fine wea-
ther during the Winter; but in heavy gales of wind they either take fhelter in
the thick woods, or go out on the open plains. The Indians, who never want
a reafon for any thing, fay, that the deer quit the thin ftrageling woods during
the high winds, becaufe the nodding of the trees, when at a confiderable dif-
tance from each other, frightens them; but in the midft of a thick foreft, the
conftant ruftling of the branches lulls them into fecurity, and renders them an
eafy prey to a fkilful hunter.

* Probably the fame with Partridge Lake in the Map.
2 whom

NORTHERN OCEAN

whom they had been fometime before taken by force.

This affair made more noife and buftle than I could |

have fuppofed; and Matonabbee feemed entirely difcon-
certed, and quite inconfolable for the lofs of his wife.
She was certainly by far the handfomeft of all his flock,
of a moderate fize, and had a fair complexion; fhe ap-
parently poffeffed a mild temper, and very engaging man~
ners. In fact, fhe feemed to have every good quality that

could be expeéted in a Northern Indian woman, and that.

could render her an agreeable companion to an inhabit-
ant of this part of the world. She had not, however,
appeared happy in her late fituation; and chofe rather
to be the fole wife of a fprightly young fellow of no
note, (though very capable of maintaining her,) than to
_ have the feventh or eighth fhare of the affection of the
greateft man in the country. I am forry to mention an
incident which happened while we were building the
canoes at Clowey, and which by no means does honour to
Matonabbee: it is no lefs a crime than that of having'ac-
tually ftlabbed the hufband of the above-mentioned girl in
three places; and had it not been for timely afliftance,
would certainly have murdered him, for no other reafon
than becaufe the poor man had fpoken difrefpe@fully of
him for having taken his wife away by force. The cool
deliberation with which Matonabbee committed this bloody
action, convinced me it had been a long premeditated de-
fen; for he no fooner heard of the man’s arrival, than
he opened one of his wives’ bundles, and, with the greateft
compofure,

103

I 77 I s
May.

Ae OR ONE A aE

compofure, took out a new long box-handled knife, went
into the man’s tent, and, without any preface whatever,
took him by the collar, and began to execute his horrid
defign. The poor man anticipating his danger, fell on
his face, and called for afliftance; but before any could
be had he received three wounds in the back. — For-
ae for him, they all happened on the fhoulder-blade,

fo that his life was fpared. When Matonabbee returned
as his tent, after committing this horrid deed, he fat down
as compofedly as if nothing had happened, called for
water to wafh his bloody. hands and knife, {moked his
pipe as -ufual, feemed to be perfetly at eafe, and afked if
IY did not think he had done right?

It has ever been the cuftom among thofe people for the
men to wreftle for any woman to whom they are attached;
and, of courfe, the ftrongeft party always carries off the
prize. A weak man, unlefs he be a good hunter and well-
beloved, is feldom permitted to keep a wife that a ftronger
man Anal worth his notice: for atany time when the wives
of thofe ftrong wreftlers are heavy-laden either with furrs
or. provifions, they make no fcruple of tearing any other
man’s wife from his bofom, and making her bear a part
of his luggage. This cuftom prevails throughout all their
tribes, and caufes a great f{pirit of emulation among their
youth, whoare upon all occafions, from their childhocd,
trying their ftrength and {kill in wreftling. This enables
them to protect their property, and particularly their wives,

| from

NORTHERN OCEAN.

from the hands of thofe powerful ravifhers ; fome of whom
make almoft a livelihood by taking what they pleafe from
the weaker parties, without making them any return.
“Indeed, it is reprefented as an act of great generofity, if
they condefcend to make an unequal exchange; as, in
general, abufe and infult are the only return for the lofs
which is fuftained.

The way in which they tear the women and other pro-

perty from one another, though it has the appearance of the ©

greateft brutality, can {carcely be called fighting. I never
knew any of them receive the leaft hurt in thefe ren-
contres; the whole bufinefs confifts in hauling each other
about by the hair of the head ; they are feldom known
either to ftrike or kick one another. It is not uncommon
for one of them to cut off his hair and, to greafe his ears,
immediately before the conteft begins. This, however, is
done privately; and it- is fometimes truly laughable, to
fee one of the parties ftrutting about with an air of great
importance, and calling out, ‘‘ Where is he? Why does
‘¢ he not come out ?’’ when the other will bolt out with
a clean fhorned head and greafed ears, rufh on his anta-
gonift, feize him by the hair, and though perhaps a
much weaker man, foon drag him to the ground, while
the ftronger is not able to lay hold on him. It is very
frequent on thofe occafions for each party to have fpies,
to watch the other’s motions, which puts them more on
a footing of equality. For want of hair to pull, they

P {eize

105

1771.
Ne amma

May.

106

1771.
} May.

A.W OARN ERG TO. THE

feize each other about the waift, with legs wide extended,
and try their firength, by endeavouring to vie who can

firft throw the other down.

On thefe wreftling oceaftons the ftanders-by never at-
tempt to interfere in the conteft ; even one brother offers.
not to aflift another, unlefs it be with advice, which, as.
it is always delivered-openly on the field during the con-
teft, may, in fac, be faid to be equally favourable to
both parties. It fometimes happens that one of the
wreftlers is fuperior in ftrength to the other; and if a
woman be the caufe of the conteft, the weaker is fre-
quently unwilling to yield, notwithftanding he is greatly
overpowered. When this happens to be the cafe, the re-
lations and friends, or other bye-ftanders, will fometimes
join to perfuade the weaker combatant to give up the
conteft, left, by continuing it, he fhould get bruifed
and hurt, without the leaft probability of being able to
protect what he is contending for. I obfery_J that very
few of thofe people were diffatisfied with the wives which
had fallen to their lot, for whenever any confiderable
number of them were in company, fcarcely a day pafled
without fome overtures being made for contefts of this
kind; and it was often very unpleafant to me, to fee the
objec of the conteft fitting in penfive filence watching her
fate, while her hufband and his rival were contending for
the.prize. I have indeed not only felt pity for thofe poor
wretched viétims, but the utmoft indignation, when I

| have

NOR THE RE NVOCE AN.

have feen them won, perhaps, by aman whom they mor-
tally hated. On thofe occafions their grief and reluctance
to follow their new lord has been fo great, that the bufi-
nefs has often ended in the greateft brutality; for, in the
ftrugele, I have feen the poor girls {tripped quite naked,
and carried by main force to their new lodgings. At
other times it was pleafant enough to fee a fine girl led off

the field from a hufband fhe difliked, with a tear in one

eye and a finger on the other: for cuftom, or delicacy

if you pleafe, has taught them to think it neceflary to
whimper a little, let the change be ever fo much to their
inclination. I have throughout this account given the

women the appellation of girls, which is pretty applicable, ©

as the objects of conteft are generally young, and without
any family: few of the men chufe to be at the trouble of
maintaining other people’s children, except on particular
occafions, which will be taken notice of hereafter.

Some of the old men, who are famous on account of
their fuppofed fkill in conjuration, have great influence in
perfuading the rabble from committing thofe outrages ;

but the humanity of thefe fages is feldom known to ex-.

tend bevond their own families. In defence of them they

will exert their utmoft influence; but when their own —

relations are guilty of the fame crime, they feldom inter-

fere. This partial conduct creates fome fecret, and fe-»
veral open enemies; but the generality of their neigh-;
- bours are deterred, through fear or fuperftition, from exe=.

jie cutine
wv

107

1771.
(ae

May.

"108

JARS,

es
*~ May.

A JOURNEY TO THE.

cuting their revenge, and even from talking difrefped-
fully of them, unlefs it be behind their backs; which isa
vice of which almoft every Indian in this country, without
exception, is guilty. |

Notwithftanding the Northern Indians are fo covetous,
and pay fo little regard to private property as to take
every advantage of bodily ftrength to rob their neighbours,
not only of their goods, but of their wives, yet they are,
in other refpeéts, the mildeft tribe, or nation, that is to
be found on the borders of Hudfon’s Bay: for let their
affronts or loffes be ever fo great, they never will feek any
other revenge than that of wreftling. As for murder,
which is fo common among all the tribes of Southern In-
dians, it is feldom heard of among them. A murderer is
fhunned and detefted by all the tribe, and is obliged to
wander up and down, forlorn and forfaken even by his
own relations and former friends. In that refpe& a mur-
derer may truly be compared to Cain, after he had killed ©
his brother Abel. The cool reception he meets with by
all who know him, occafions him to grow melancholy,
and he never leaves any place but the whole company fay,
‘* There goes the murderer!’’ The women, it is true, fome-
times receive an unlucky blow from their hufbands for
mifbehaviour, which occafions their death; but this is ©
thought nothing of: and for one man or woman to kill
another out of revenge, or through Jjealoufy, or on any
other account, is fo extraordinary, that very few are now

2 exifting

WROURTHERN 'OGEAN,

exifting who have been guilty of it. At the prefent mo-
ment I know not one, befide Matonabbee, who ever made
an attempt of that nature; and he is, in every other refpect,
iver oF fuch univerfal good fenfe, and, as an Indian,
of fuch great humanity, that I am at a lofs how to account
for his having been guilty of fuch a crime, unlefs it be

by his having lived among the Southern Indians fo long, as

to become tainted with their blood-thirfty, revengeful, and
vindictive difpofition. :

: Early in the morning of the twenty-ninth, Captain
Keelfhies joined us. He delivered to me a packet of let-
ters, and a two-quart keg of French brandy; but affured
me, that the powder, fhot, tobacco, knives, &c. which
he received at the Fort for me, were all expended. He
endeavoured to make fome apology for this, by faying,

that fome of his relations died in the Winter, and that he
had, according to their cuftom, thrown all his own things

away ; after which he was obliged to have recourfe to my
ammunition and other goods, to fupport himfelf and a
numerous family. The very affeCting manner in waich
he related this ftory, often crying like a child, was a great
proof of his extreme forrow, which he wifhed to per-
fuade me arofe from the recolle&ion of his having em-
bezzled fo much of my property; but I was of a differ-
ent opinion, and attributed his grief to arife from the
remembrance of his deceafed relations. However,. as a
{mall recompence for my lofs, he prefented me with four

ready-

109

1771.
eres es

May.

2oth.

L10

1771.
May.

ALJOURNEM @.O(T EE

ready-drefled moofe-fkins, which was, he faid, the only
retribution he could then make. The moofe-fkins, though
not the twentieth part of the value of the goods which
he had embezzled, were in reality more acceptable to
me, than the ammunition and the other articles would
have been, on account of their great ufe as fhoe-leather,
which at that time was a very fcarce article with us,
whereas we had plenty of powder and fhot. .

On the fame day that Keelfhies joined us, an Indian
man, who had been fome time in our company, infifted on
taking one of Matonabbee’s wives from him by force, un-
lefs he complied with his demands, which were, that
Matonabbee fhould give him a certain quantity of ammu-
nition, fome pieces of iron-work, a kettle, and feveral
other articles; every one of which, Matonabbee was obliged
to deliver, or lofe the woman; for the other man far ex-
celled him in ftrength. Matonabbee was more exafperated
on this occafion, as the fame man had fold him the woman
no longer ago than the nineteenth of the preceding April. -
Having expended all the goods he then poffeffed, however,
he was determined to make another bargain for her ; and as
fhe was what may be called a valuable woman in their
eftimation ; that is, one who was not only tolerably per-
fonable, but reckoned very fkilful in manufacturing the
different kinds of leather, fkins, and furrs, and at the
fame time very clever in the performance of every other
domeftic duty required of the fex in this part of the

world ;

NORTHERN OCEAN,

world; Matonabbee was more unwilling to part with her,
efpecially as he had fo lately fuffered a lofs of the fame
kind. *\":

This difpute, which was after fome hours decided by
words and prefents, had like to have proved fatal to my
expedition ; for Matonabbee, who at that time thought
himfelf as great a man as then lived, took this affront fo
much to heart, efpecially as it was offered in my prefence,
that he almoft determined not to proceed any farther to-
ward the Copper-mine River, and was on the point of
ftriking off to the Weftward, with an intent to join the
Athapufco Indians, and continue with them: he being
perfectly well acquainted with all their leaders, and moft
of the principal Indians of that country, from whom,
during a former refidence among them of feveral years, he
faid he had met with more civility than he ever did from
his own countrymen. As Matonabbee feemed refolutely
bent on his defign, I had every reafon to think. that my
third expedition would prove equally unfuccefsful with
the two former. I was not, however, under the leaft ap-

prehenfion for my own fafety, as he promifed to take me —

with him, and procure me a paflage to Prince of Wales’s
Fort, with fome of the Athapufcow Indians, who at that
time annually vifited the Factory in the way of trade.
After waiting till I thought Matonabbee’s paflion had a.
‘little abated, I ufed every argument of which I was mafter
in favour of his proceeding on the journey; afluring him
not

Lift

1771.
(casemee aererens!

May.

agth.

30th.

A J ORR METRO THE

not only of the future efteem of the prefent Governor of
Prince of Wales’s Fort, but alfo of that of all his fucceffors
as long as he lived ; and that even the Hudfon’s Bay Com-
pany themfelves would be ready to acknowledge his affi-
duity and perfeverance, in conducting a bufinefs which had
fo much the appearance of proving advantageous to them.
After fome converfation of this kind, and a good deal of
intreaty, he at length confented to proceed, and promifed
to make all poffible hafte. Though it was then late in the
afternoon, he gave orders for moving, and accordingly we

walked about feven miles that night, and put up on ano-

ther ifland in Pefhew Lake. ‘The preceding afternoon
the Indians had killed a few deer; but our number was
then fo great, that eight or ten deer would {carcely afford
us all a tafte. Thefe deer were the firft we had feen fince
our leaving the neighbourhood of Thelewey-aza-yeth; fo
that we had lived all the time on the dried meat which’
had been prepared before we left that place in ARS

The thirtieth proved bad, rainy weather; we walked,
however, about ten miles to the Northward, when we
arrived. on the North fide of Pefhew Lake, hs put up.
Here Matonabbee immediately began to make every ne-
ceflary arrangement for facilitating the execution of ‘our
defign ; and as he had. promifed to make all poffible hafte,
he thought it expedient to leave moft of his wives and all
his children in the care of fcme Indians, then in our.
company, who had his orders to proceed to. the North-

ward

NORTHERN OCEAN.

ward at their leifure; and who, ata particular place ap-
pointed by him, were to wait our return from the Copper-
mine River. Having formed this refolution, Matonabbee
{elected two of his young wives who had no children, to
accompany us; and in order to make their loads as light
as poflible, it was agreed that we fhould not take more
ammunition with us than was really neceflary for our fup-
port, till we might expect again to join thofe Indians and
the women and children. ‘The fame meafures were alfo
adopted by all the other Indians of my party; particu-
larly thofe who had a plurality of wives, and a number of
children.

_ As thefe matters took fome time to adjuft, it was near
nine o’clock in the evening of the thirty-firft before we
could fet out; and then it was with much difficulty
that Maleihbee could perfuade his other wives from fol-
lowing him, with their children and all their lumber ; for
fuch was their unwillingnefs to be left behind, that he
was obliged to ufe his authority before they would confent,
confequently they parted in anger; and we no fooner began
our march, than they fet up a moft woeful cry, and con-
tinued to yell moft piteoufly as long as we were within
hearing. ‘This mournful fcene had fo little effe& on my
party, that they walked away laughing, and as merry as
ever, The few who expreffed any regret at their de-
parture from thofe whom they were to leave behind, con-

OG fined

113

177%.
ame,

May.

git.

1I4

1771.
Aces eed

May.

A 17 OU RN Be TiO) TE

fined their regard wholly to their children, particularly to

the youngeft, fcarcely ever mentioning their mother.

Though it was fo late when we left the women, we
walked about ten miles that night before we ftopped. In
our way we faw many deer; feveral of which the Indians
killed. To. talk of travelling and killing deer in the
middle of the night, may at firft view have the appearance
ef romance; but our wonder will {peedily abate, when it
is confidered that we were then to the Northward of 64° of
North latitude, and that, in confequence of it, though the
Sun did not remain the whole night above the horizon, yet
the time it remained below it was fo fhort, and its de-
preffion even at midnight fo fmall at this feafon of the year,
that the light, in clear weather, was quite fufficient for the
purpofe both of walking, and hunting any kind of game.

It fhould have been obferved, that during our ftay at
Clowey. a great number of Indians entered into a com-
bination with thofe of my party to accompany us to the
Copper-mine River; and with no other intent than to
murder the Efquimaux, who are underftood by the Copper
Indians to. frequent that river in confiderable numbers.
This, fcheme, notwithftanding the trouble and fatigue,
as well as danger, with which it muft. be obvioufly at-
tended, was neverthelefs fo univerfally approved by thofe
people, that for fome time almoft every man who joined

us

NiO’ R Ti HeE RuN i) O;0uw A N.Y

us propofed to be of the party. Accordingly, each vo-
lunteer, as well as thofe who were properly of my party,
prepared a target, or fhield, before we left the woods of
Clowey. Thofe targets were compofed of thin boards,
about three quarters of an inch thick, two feet broad, and
three feet long ; and were intended to ward off the arrows
of the Efquimaux. Notwithftanding thefe preparations,
when we came to leave the women and children, as has
been already mentioned, only fixty volunteers would go with

us; the re{t, who were nearly as many more, though they _

had all prepared targets, reflecting that they had a great
diftance to walk, and that no advantage could be expected

from the expedition, very prudently begged to be excufed,

faying, that they could not be fpared for fo long a time
from the maintenance of their wives and families; and
particularly, as they did not fee any then in our company,
who feemed willing to encumber themfelves with fuch a
charge. ‘This feemed to be a mere evafion, for I am clearly
of opinion that poverty on one fide, and avarice on the other,
were the only impediments to their joining our party; had
they poffeffed as many European goods to fquander away
among their countrymen as Matonabbee and thofe of my
party did, in all probability many might have been found

who would have been glad to have accompanied ws.

When I was acquainted with the intentions of my
companions, and faw the warlike preparations that were
carrying on, I endeavoured as much as poffible te perfuade

Q2 them

115

1771.
named

May.

716

1771.
fe eee)

May.

June
it.

A | JOU RN BY” TO). THE -

them from putting their inhuman defign into execution ;
but fo far were my intreaties from having the withed-for
effet, that it was concluded I was actuated by cowardice;
and they told me, with great marks of derifion, that I
was afraid of the Efquimaux. As I knew my per-
fonal fafety depended in a great meafure on the favourable
opinion they entertained of me in this refpedt, I was obliged
to change my tone, and replied, that I did not care if they
rendered the name and race of the Efquimaux extiné ;
adding at the fame time, that though I was no enemy
to the Efquimaux, and did not fee the neceflity of attack-
ing them without caufe, yet if I fhould find it neceflary to
do it, for the protection of any one of my company, my
own fafety out of the queftion, fo far from being afraid of
a poor defencelefs Ef{quimaux, whom I defpifed more than
feared, nothing fhould be wanting on my part to protec
all who were with me. ‘This declaration was received
with great fatisfaGtion ; and I never afterwards ventured
to interfere with any of their war-plans. Indeed, when I
came to confider ferioufly, I faw evidently that it was the
higheft folly for an individual like me, and in my fitua-
tion, to attempt to turn the current of a national preju-
dice which had fubfifted between thofe two nations from
the earlieft periods, or at leaft as long as they had been
acquainted with the exiftence of each other.

Having got rid of all the women, children, dogs, heavy
baggage, and other incumbrances, on the firft of June we

purfued

NORTHERN OCEAN.

purfued our journey to the Northward with great {peed ; but
the weather was in general fo precarious, and the fnow,
fleet, and rain fo frequent, that notwithftanding we em-
braced every opportunity which offered, it was the fix-
teenth of June before we arrived in the latitude of 67° 30’,
where Matonabbee had propofed that the women and
children fhould wait our return from the Copper-mine
River.

In our way hither we croffed feveral lakes on the ice;
_ of which Thoy-noy-kyed Lake and Thoy-coy-lyned Lake

were the principal. We alfo crofied a few inconfiderable

creeks and rivers, which were only ufeful as they furnifhed |

a {mall fupply of fifh to the natives. The weather, as I
have before obferved, was in general difagreeable, with a
ereat deal of rain and fnow. To make up for that in-
convenience, however, the deer were fo plentiful, that the
Indians killed not only a fufficient quantity for our daily

fupport, but frequently great numbers merely for the fat,.

marrow, and tongues. To induce them to defift from

this practice, I often interefted myéelf, and endeavoured,
as much as poflible, to convince them in the cleareft.

terms of which I was mafter, of the great impropriety of
fuch wafte ; particularly at a time of the year when their

fins could not be of any ufe for clothing, and when the

anxiety to proceed on our journey would not permit us to

fiay long enough in one place to eat up half the fpoils of.

their hunting. As national cuftoms, however, are not eafily.
7 over=-

117

1771.
LL —.J

June.

16th,

118

1771.

“June.

zoth.

ari,

22d.

AP E-O UR Nemee eT iO Ar ele,

overcome, my remonftrances proved ineffectual; and I

was always an{wered, that it was certainly vik to kill

plenty, and live on the beft, when and where it was to
be got, for that it would be impoffible to do it where

every thing was fcarce: and they infifted on it, that kill-
_ ing plenty of deer and other game in one part of the

country, could never make them {carcer in another. In-
deed, they were fo accuftomed to kill every thing that

‘came within their reach, that few of them could pafs by

a fmall bird’s neft, without flaying the yates soe or de-~
ftroying the eggs.

From the feventeenth to the twentieth, we walked be-
tween feventy and eighty miles to the North Weft and
North North Weft; the greater part of the way by Cogead
Lake; but the Lake being then frozen, we croffed all the
creeks and bays of it on the ice.

On the twenty-firft we had bad rainy weather, with fo
thick a fog that we could not fee our way: about ten
o'clock at night, however, it became fine and clear, and
the Sun fhone very bright; indeed it did not fet all that
night, which was a convincing proof, without any obferva-
tion, that we were then confiderably to the North of the
Arétic Polar Circle. 3

As foon as the fine weather began, we fet out and walked
about feven or eight miles to the Northward, when: we
came

NORTHERN OGEAN.

came to a branch of Conge-ca-tha-wha-chaga River ; on
the North fide of which we found feveral Copper Indians,
who were aflembled, according to annual cuftom, to kill
deer as they crofs the river in their little canoes.

The ice being now broken up, we were, for the firft
time this Summer, obliged to make ufe of our canoes to
ferry acrofs the river; which would have proved very te-
dious, had it not been for the kindnefs of the Cop-

per Indians, who fent all their canoes to our affiftance.

Though our number was not much lefs than one hundred

and fifty, we had only three canoes, and thofe being of

the common fize, could only carry two perfons each,

without baggage. It is true, when water is {mooth,
and a raft of three or four of thefe canoes is well fecured
by poles lafhed acrofs them, they will carry a much
greater weight in proportion, and be much fafer, as there
is fearcely a poflibility of their overfetting ; and this is the
general mode adopted by the people of this country in croff-

ing rivers when they have more than one canoe with flere

Having arrived on the North fide of this river, we
found that Matonabbee, and feveral others in our com-
pany, were perfonally acquainted with moft of the Copper
Indians whom we found there. The latter feemed highly.
pleafed at the interview with our party, and endeavoured,
by: every means in. their power, to convince our company
of their readinefs to ferve us to the utmoft; fo that by the

time.

11g

1771,
Meee ed)

June.

120

1771.
Ra ead

June.

A JOURNEY TO THE

time we had got our tents pitched, the flrangers had pro-
vided a large quantity of dried meat and fat, by way of a
feaft, to which they invited moft of : the principal Indians

who accompanied me, as well as Matonabbee and myéelf,
who were prefented with fome of the very beft.

It is natural to fuppofe, that immediately after our ar-
rival the Copper Indians would be made acquainted with
the nature and intention of our journey. This was no fooner
done than they expreffed their entire approbation, and.
many of them feemed willing and defirous of giving every
afliftance ; particularly by lending us feveral canoes, which
they affured us would be very ufeful in the remaining part
of our journey, and contribute both to our eafe and dif-
patch. It muft be obferved, that thefe canoes were not
entirely entrufted to my crew, but carried by the owners
themfelves who accompanied us; as it would have been
very uncertain where to have found them at our return from

the Copper River.

Agreeably to my inftructions, I {moked my calumet of
peace with the principal of the Copper Indians, who
feemed highly pleafed on the occafion; and, from a
converfation held on the fubjeét of my journey, I found
they were delighted with the hopes of having an Euro-
pean fettlement in their neighbourhood, and feemed to
have no idea that any impediment could prevent fuch a
{cheme from being carried into execution. Climates and

feafons

NORTHERN OCEAN.

feafons had no weight with them; nor could they fee
where the difficulty lay in getting to them; for though
they acknowledged that they had never feen the fea at the
mouth of the Copper River clear of ice, yet they could
fee nothing that {hould hinder a fhip from approaching it;
and they innocently enough obferved, that the water was
always fo {mooth between the ice and fhore, that even fmall
boats might get there with great eafe and fafety. Howa
fhip was to get between the ice and the fhore, never once
occurred to them.

Whether it was from real motives of hofpitality, or
from the great advantages which they expected to reap
by my difcoyeries, I know not; but I muft confefs that
their civility far exceeded what I could expeé& from fo un-
civilized a tribe, and I was exceedingly forry that I had
nothing of value to offer them. However, fuch articles
as I had, I diftributed among them, and they were thank-
fully received by them. Though they have fome European

commodities among them, which they purchafe from |

the Northern Indians, the fame articles from the hands
of an Englifhman were more prized. As I was the firtt
whom they had ever feen, and in all probability might be
the laft, it was curious i fee how they y flocked about
me, and exprefied as much defire to examine me from top
to toe, as an European Naturalift would a non-defcript ani-
mal. They, however, found and pronounced me to be
a perfect human being, except in the colour of my hair

R and

121

177I.
(saree eterna!

June.

122

, oo r771,

June,

23d.

A JOURNEY TO PHE .

and eyes: the former, they faid, was like the ftained hair
of a buffaloe’s tail, and the latter, being light, were
like thofe of a gull. The whitenefs of my {kin alfo
was, in their opinion, no ornament, as they faid it re-
fembled meat which had been fodden in water till all
the blood was extracted. On the whole, I was viewed as
fo great a curiofity in this part of the world, that during
my ftay there, whenever I combed my head, fome or other
of them never failed to afk for the hairs that came off,
which they carefully wrapped up, faying, ‘* When I fee

‘< you again, you fhall again fee your hair.”

The day after our arrival at Congecathawhachaga, Ma-
tonabbee difpatched his brother, and feveral Copper In-
dians, to. Copper-mine River, with orders to acquaint
any Indians they might meet, with the reafon of my vifit-

ing thofe parts, and alfo when they might probably ex-

pe&t us at that river. By the bearers of this meflage I
fent a prefent of tobacco and fome other things, to in-
duce any ftrangers they met to be ready to give us affift-
ance, either by advice, or in any other way which might
be required.

As Matonabbee and the other Indians thought it ad-
vifable to leave all the women at this place, and pro-
ceed to the Copper-mine River without them, it was
thought neceflary to continue here a few days, to kill as
many deer as would be fufficient for their fupport during

our

NOUR Ton E R Mio CEA N.

our abfence. And notwithftanding deer were fo plenti-
ful, yet our numbers were fo large, and our daily con-
fumption was fo great, that feveral days elapfed before the
men could provide the women with a fufficient quantity ;
and then they had no other way of preferving it, than by
cutting it in thin flices and drying it inthe Sun. Meat,
when thus prepared, is not only very portable, but palat-
able; as all the blood and juices are ftill remaining in the
meat, it is very nourifhing and wholefome food; and may,

with care, be kept a whole year without the leaft danger

of fpoiling. It is neceflary, however, to air it frequently
during the warm weather, otherwile it is liable to grow
- mouldy: but as foon as the chill air of the fall begins, it
requires no farther trouble till next Summer.

We had not been many days at Congecathawhachaga
before I had reafon to be greatly concerned at the beha-
viour of feveral of my crew to the Copper Indians. They
not only took many of their young women, furrs, and ready-
dreffed fkins for clothing, but alfo feveral of their bows and
arrows, which were the only implements they had to pro-
cure food and raiment, for the future fupport of themfelves,
their wives, and families. It may probably be thought,
that as thefe weapons are of fo fimple a form, and fo
eafily conftructed, they might foon be replaced, without
any other trouble or expence than a little labour; but
this f{yppolition can only hold good in places where proper
materials are eafily procured, which was not the cafe here:

R 2 if

124

17 71.
een oe

June.

AL POUWRN B¥ OTOr Tae.

if it had, they would not’ have been an object of plunder.
In the midft of a foreft of trees, the wood that would
make a Northern Indian a bow and a few arrows, or in-
deed a bow and arrows ready made, are not of much va-
lue; no more than the man’s trouble that makes them:
but carry that bow and arrows feveral hundred miles from
any woods and place where thofe are the only weapons in
ufe, their intrinfic value will be found to increafe, in the

fame proportion as the materials which are made are lefs
attainable *.

To do Matonabbee juftice onthis occafion, I muft fay
that he endeavoured as much as poflible to perfuade his
countrymen from taking either furrs, clothing, or bows,
from the Copper Indians, without making them fome
fatisfaory return; but if he did not encourage, neither
did he endeavour to hinder-them from taking as many
women as they pleafed. Indeed, the Copper Indian women
feem to be muchefteemed by our Northern traders; for what
reafon I know not, as they are in reality the fame people
in every refpeé@ ; and their language differs not fo much as
the dialeéts of fome of the neareft counties in England do
from each other.

It is not furprifing that a plurality of wives is cuf-
tomary among thefe people, as it is fo well adapted to

* See Poftlethwayt on the article of Labour.
their

NORTHERN OJG.E A N.

their fituation and manner of life. In my opinion no
race of people under the Sun have a greater occafion for
fuch an indulgence. Their annual haunts, in queft of
furrs, is fo remote from any European fettlement, as to
render them the greateft travellers in the known world ;
and as they have neither horfe nor water carriage, every
good hunter is under the neceflity of having feveral perfons
to affift in carrying his furrs to the Company’s Fort, as
well as carrying back the European goods which he receives

in exchange for them. No perfons in this country are fo ©

proper for this work as the women, becaufe they are
inured to carry and haul heavy loads from their childhood,
and to do all manner of drudgery; fo that thofe men who
are capable of providing for three, four, five, fix, or more
women, generally find them humble and faithful fervants,
affectionate wives, and fond and indulgent mothers to their
children. Though cuftom makes this way of life fit appa-
rently eafy on the generality of the women, and though, in
general, the whole of their wants feem to be comprized in
food and clothing only, yet nature at times gets the better
of cuftom, and the fpirit of jealoufy makes its appearance
among them: however, as the hufband is always arbi-
trator, he foon fettles the bufinefs, though perhaps not
always to the entire fatisfaction of the parties.

Much does it redound to the honour of the Northern
Indian women when I afirm, that they are the mildeft
and moft virtuous females I have feen in any part of North

America ;

125

1771.
hee nd)

June.

A) OURMEY WTO FE

America; though fome think this is moré owing to habit,
cuftom, and the fear of their hufbands, than from real

‘inclination. Jt is undoubtedly well known that none can

manage a Northern Indian woman fo well as a Northern
Tadian man; and when any of them have been permitted
to remain at the Fort, they have, for the fake of gain,
been eafily prevailed on to deviate from that character;
and a few have, by degrees, become as abandoned as the
Southern Indians, who are remarkable throughout all their
tribes for being the moft debauched wretches under: the
Sun. So-tar from laying any reftraint on their fenfual ap-
petites, as long as youth and inclination laft, they give
themfelves up to all manner of even inceftuous debauchery ;
and that in fo beaftly a manner when they are intoxicated,
a ftate to which they are peculiarly addi@ed, that the brute
creation are not lefs regardlefs of decency. I know that
fome few Europeans, who have had little opportunity of -
fecing them, and of enquiring into their manners, have
been very lavifh in their praife: but every one who has

had much intercourfe with them, and penetration and in-

duftry enough to ftudy their difpofitions, will agree, that

no accomplifhments whatever in a man, is fufficient to con-
ciliate the affetions, or preferve the chaftity of a Southern

Indian woman *

The

* Notwithftanding this is the general character of the Southern Indian |
women, as they are called on the coafts of Hudfon’s Bay, and who are the
fame tribe with the Canadian Indians, I am happy to have it in my power to
infert a few lines to the memory of one of them, whom I knew from her in-

fancy,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

The Northern Indian women are in general fo far from
baa like thofe I have above defcribed, that it is very
-uncom-

fancy, and who, I can truly affirm, was directly the reverfe of the picture I
have drawn.

Mary, the daughter of Moszs Norton, many years Chief at Prince of
Wales’s Fort, in Hudfon’s Bay, though born and brought up in a country
of all others the leaft favourable to virtue and virtuous principles, poffeffed
them, and every other good and amiable quality, ina moft eminent degree.

Without the affiftance of religion, and with no education but what fhe re-
ceived among the diffolute natives of her country, fhe would have fhone with
fuperior luftre in any other country: for, if an engaging, perfon, gentile man-
ners, an eafy freedom, arifing from a confcioufnefs of innocence, an amiabie
modefty, and an unrivalled delicacy of fenttment, are graces and virtues which
render a woman lovely, none ever had greater pretenfions to general efteem
and regard; while her benevolence, humanity, and fcrupulous adherence to
truth and honefty, would have done honour to the moft enlightened and de-
vout Chriftian.

Dutiful, obedient, and affectionate to her parents; fteady and faithful to her
friends; grateful and humble to her benefactors; eafily forgiving and forget-
ting injuries; careful not to offend any, and courteous and kind to all; fhe
was, neverthelefs, fuffered to perifh by the rigours of cold and hunger, amid{t
her own relations, at a time when the griping hand of famine was by no means
feverely felt by any other member of their company ; and it may truly be faid
that fhe fella martyr to the principles of vircue. This happened in the Winter
of the year 1782, after the French had deftroyed Prince of Wales’s Fort; at
which time fhe was in the twenty-fecond year of her age.

Human nature fhudders at the bare recital of fuch brutality,-and reafon
fhrinks from the tafk of accounting for the decrees of Providence on fuch oc-
_cafions as this: but they are the ftrongeft affurances of a future ftate, fo in-
finitely fuperior to the prefent, that the enjoyment of every pleafure in this
world by the moft worthlefs and abandoned wretch, or the moit innocent and

virtuous

127

1771.
leaps een}

June.

1771.
ue an)

a’

128

June.

A JOURNEY: TO THE

uncommon to hear of their ever being guilty of inconti-

nency, not even thofe who are confined to the fixth or
even eighth part of a man.

It is true, that were I to form my opinion of thofe
women from the behaviour of fuch as I have been more
particularly acquainted with, I fhould have little reafon
to fay much in their favour; but impartiality will not

virtuous woman perifhing by the moft excruciating of all deaths, are matters
equally indifferent. But,

Peace to the afhes, and the virtuous mind,

Of her who lived in peace with all mankind ;

Learn’d from the heart, unknowing of difguife,

Truth in her thoughts, and candour in her eyes;

Stranger alike to envy and to pride,

Good fenfe her light, and Nature all her guide;

But now removed from all the ills of life,

Here refts the pleafing friend and faithful wife. WALLER.

Her father was, undoubtedly, very blamable for bringing her up in the
tender manner which he did, rendering her by that means not only incapable
of bearing the fatigues and hardfhips which the reft of her countrywomen
think little of, but of providing for herfelf. ‘This is, indeed, too frequent
a practice among Europeans in that country, who bring up their children
in fo indulgent a manner, that when they retire, and leave their offspring
behind, they find themfelves fo helplefs, as to be unable to provide for the
few wants to which they are fubjeét. The late Mr. Ferdinand Jacobs, many
years Chief at York Fort, was the only perfon whom I ever knew that acted
in a different manner; though no man could poffibly be fonder of his children
in other refpects, yet as there were fome that he could not bring to England,
he had them brought up entirely among the natives; fo that when he left the

country, they fcarcely ever felt the lofs, though they regretted the abfence of
a fond and indulgent parent.

' permit

8

NOUR’ Toor RY NUOP GEA’ N.

permit me to make a few of the worft characters a ftandard
for the general condué of all of them. Indeed it is but
reafonable to think that travellers and interlopers will be
always ferved with the worft commodities, though perhaps

they pay the beft price for what they have.

It may appear ftrange, that while I am extolling the

chaftity of the Northern Indian women, I fhould ac-_

knowledge that it is a very common cuftom among the
men of this country to exchange a night’s lodging with each
other’s wives. But this is fo far from being confidered as
an act which is criminal, that it is efteemed by them as one
of the ftrongeft ties of friendfhip between two families ;
and in cafe of the death of either man, the other confiders
himfelf bound to fupport the children of the deceafed.
Thofe people are fo far from viewing this engagement as a
mere ceremony, like moft of our Chriftian god-fathers and
god-mothers, who, notwithftanding their vows are made
in the moft folemn manner, and in the prefence of both
God and man, fcarcely ever afterward remember what they
have promifed, that there is not an inftance of a N orthern
Indian having once negleéed the duty which he is fup-
pofed to have taken upon himfelf to perform. The
Southern Indians, with all their bad qualities, are remark~
ably humane and charitable to the widows and children of
_ departed friends; and as their fituation and manner of life
enable them to do more acts of charity with lefs trouble

S) than

129

1771.
eae

June.

130

1771.
Ren mien

Jsne.

A POU RON HY Cnr Tae

than falls to the lot of a Northern Indian, few widows or
orphans are ever unprovided for among them.

Though the Northern Indian men make no fcruple of
having two or three fifters for wives at one time, yet they
are very particular in obferving a proper diftance in the

confanguinity of thofe they admit to the above-mentioned

intercourfe with their wives. The Southern Indians are
lefs fcrupulous on thofe occafions ; among them it is not
at all uncommon for one brother to make free with ano-

ther brother’s wife or daughter*; but this is held in

abhorrence by the Northern Indians.

* Moft of the Southern Indians, as well the Athapufcow and Neheaway
tribes, are entirely without fcruple in this refpect. It is notorioufly known,.
that many of them cohabit occafionally with their own mothers, and frequently
efpoufe their fifters and daughters. I have known feveral of them who, after
having lived in that ftate for fome time with their daughters, have given —
to their fons, and all parties been perfectly reconciled to it.

In fact, notwithftanding the feverity of the inate! the licentioufnefs of
the inhabitants cannot be exceeded by any of the Eaftern nations, whofe luxu-
rious manner of life, and genial clime, feem more adapted to excite extraor-
dinary paffions, than the fevere cold of the frigid Zone.

Itis true, that few of thofe who live under the cpueedioke protection of the
Englifh ever take either their fifters or daughters for wives, which is probably
owing to the fear of incurring their difpleafure ; but it is well known that
aéts of inceft too often take place among them, though perhaps not fo fre-
quently as among the foreign Indians.

By

NORTHERN OCEAN,

By the time the Indians had killed as many deer as they
thought would be fufficient for the iapport of the women
during our abfence, it was the firft of July ; and during
this time I had two good obfervations, both by meridional
and double altitudes ; the mean of which cecmmaed the
latitude of Congecathawhachaga to be 68° 46° North;
and its longitude, by account, was 24° 2° Weft from
Prince of Wales’s Fort, or 118° 15 "Welt of the meridian
of London.

On the fecond, the weather proved very bad, with much
fnow and fleet; about nine o’clock at night, however, it
grew more moderate, and fomewhat clearer, fo that we fet
out, and walked about ten miles to the North by Weft,
when we lay down to take a little fleep, At our;de-
parture from Congecathawhachaga, feveral Indians who
had entered the war-lift, rather chofe to ftay behind with
the women; but their lofs was amply fupplied by Copper
Indians, ae accompanied us in the double cabaaty of
guides and warriors.

On the third the weather was equally bad with that of
the preceding day ; we made fhift, however, to walk ten
or eleven miles in the fame direétion we had done the day
before, and at laft were obliged to put up, not being able
to fee our way for {now and thick drift. By putting up, no
more is to be underftood than that we got to leeward of a

92 | great

131
i Gee

: July,

ut,

ad,

3%

132

1771.

July.

4th.

A JOU R NEW WO MIHNE

great ftone, or into the crevices of the rocks, where we
regaled ourfelves with fuck provifions as we had brought
with us, fmoked our pipes, or went to fleep,. till the
weather permitted us to proceed on our journey.

On the fourth, we had rather better weather, though
conftant light fnow, which made it very difagreeable
under foot. We neverthelefs walked tweaty-feven miles
to the North Weft, fourteen of which were on what the
Indians call the Stony Mountains; and furely no part of the
world better deferves that name. On our farft approaching
thefe mountains, they appeared to be a confufed heap ot
flones, utterly inacceflible to the foot of man: but having
fome Copper Indians: with us who knew the beft road,
we“imade a tolerable fhift to get on, though not with-
out being obliged frequently to crawl on our hands
and knees. Notwithftanding the intricacy of the road,
there is a very vifible path the whole way acrofs thefe
mountains, even in the moft difficult parts: and alfo
on the fmooth rocks, and thofe parts which are capable
of receiving an impreffion, the path is as plain and well-
beaten, as any bye foot-path in England. By the fide of
this path there are, in different parts, feveral large, flat,
or table ftones, which are covered with many thoufands
of fmall pebbles. Thefe the Copper Indians fay have been.
oradually increafed by paflengers going to and from the
mines ; and on its being obferved to us that it was the uni-

verf{al

NORTHERN OCEAN.

verfal cuftom for every one to add a ftone to the heap,
each of us took up a fmall ftone in order to increafe the
number, for good luck.

Juft as we arrived at the foot of the Stony Mountains,
three of the Indians turned back; faying, that from every
appearance, the remainder of the journey feemed likely to
be attended with more trouble than would counterbalance
the pleafure they could promife themfelves by going to
war with the Efquimaux.

On the fifth, as the weather was fo bad, with conftant
fnow, fleet, and rain, that we could not fee our way, we
did not offer to move: but the fixth proving moderate,
and quite fair till toward noon, we fet out in the morn-
ing, and walked about eleven miles to the North Weft ;
when perceiving bad weather at hand, we began to look
out for fhelter among the rocks, as we had done the
four preceding nights, having neither tents nor tent-
poles with us. The next morning fifteen more of the
Indians deferted us, being quite fick of the road, and
the uncommon badnefs of the weather. Indeed, though
thefe people are all enured to hardfhips, yet their com-
plaint on the prefent occafion was not without reafon;
for, from our leaving Congecathawhachaga we had fcarcely
a dry garment of any kind, or any thing to fkreen us

from the inclemency of the weather, except rocks and ~

Caves 3

t3g

P7471,
cn enced

July.

othe.

6th,

134

1771.

July.

Ai JOUR NEA O ACD erE..

caves; the beft of which were but damp and unwholefome
lodging. In fome the water was conftantly dropping
from the rock that formed the roof, which made our
place of retreat little better than the open air; and we
had not been able to make one {park of fire (except what
was fufficient to light a pipe) from the time of our leav-
ing the women on the fecond inftant ; it is true, in fome
places there was a little mofs, but the conftant fleet and
rain made it fo wet, as to render it as impoffible to {et fire |

0 it as it would be to a wet fpunge.

We had no fooner entered our places of retreat, than we

regaled ourfelves with fome raw venifon which the In-
dians had killed that morning; the {mall ftock of dried

provifions we took with us when we left the women being

now all expended,

_Agreeably to our expedtations, avery fudden and heavy
gale of wind came on from the North Weft, attended

with fo great a fall of fnow, that the oldeft Indian in com-

pany faid, he never faw it exceeded at any time of the year,
much lefs in the middle of Summer. The gale was foon
over, and by degrees it became a perfe&t calm: but the flakes
of fnow were fo large as to furpafs all credibility, and fell
in fuch vaft quantities, that though the fhower only lafted
nine hours, we were in danger of being {mothered in our
caves. |

On

NORTHERN OGEAN.

On the feventh, we had a frefh breeze at North
Weft, with fome flying fhowers of fmall rain, and at
the fame time a conftant warm funfhine, which foon
diffolved the greateft part of the new-fallen fnow. Early
in the morning we crawled out of our holes, which were
on the North fide of the Stony Mountains, and walked
about eighteen or twenty miles to the North Weft by
Weft. In our way we croffed part of a large lake on
the ice, which was then far from being broken up. This
lake I diftinguifhed by the name of Buffalo, or Mufk-Ox
Lake, from the number of thofe animals that we found

| grazing on the margin of it; many of which the In-

dians killed, but finding them lean, only took fome of
the bulls’ hides for fhoe-foals. At night the bad wea-

- ther returned, with a flrong gale.of wind at North Eaft,.

and very cold rain and fleet.

This was the firft time we had feen xy of the mufk-
oxen fince we left the Faory. It has been obferved that
we faw a great number of them in my firft unfuccefsful

attempt, before I had got an hundred miles from the Fac-

tory; and indeed I once perceived the tracks of two of thofe

animals within nine miles of Prince of Wales’s Fort. Great -

numbers of them alfo were met with in my {econd journey to:
the North: feveral of which my companions killed, par-
ticularly on the feventeenth of July one thoufand feven
hundred and feventy. They are alfo found at times in

confiderable numbers near the fea-coaft of Hudfon’s Bay,
‘i all

136

“1778.

July.

A kOO U RON ROTH. ON HE

all the way from Knapp’s Bay to Wager Water, but are

moft plentiful within the Arétic Circle. In thofe high
latitudes I have frequently feen many herds of them in the

-courfe of a day’s walk, and fome of thofe herds did not
contain lefs than eighty or an hundred head. The num-
ber of bulls is very few in proportion to the cows; for

it is rare to fee more than two or three full-grown bulls

with the largeft herd: and from the number of the males

that are found dead, the Indians are of opinion that they

kill each other in contending for the females. In the
rutting feafon they are fo jealous of the cows, that they

run at either man or beaft who offers to approach them;
and have been obferved to run and bellow even at ravens,
and other large birds, which chanced to light near them.
They delight in the moft ftony and mountainous parts
of the barren ground, and are feldom found at any great
diftance from the weods. Though they are a beaft of
great magnitude, and apparently of a very unwieldy in-
active ftructure, yet they climb the rocks with great eafe
and agility, and are nearly as fure-footed as a goat; like
it too, they will feed on any thing; though they feem
fondeft of grafs, yet in Winter, when that article cannot be
had in fufficient quantity, they will eat mofs, or any other
herbage they can find, as alfo the tops of willows and
the tender branches of the pine tree. ‘They take the bull
in Auguft, and bring forth their young the latter end of
May, or beginning of June; and they never have more
than one at a time,

The

NORTHERN OCEAN.»

The mufk-ox, when full grown, is as large as the ge-
nerality, or at leaft as the middling fize, of Englifh black
cattle *; but their legs, though large, are not fo long;
nor is their tail longer than that of a bear; and, like the
tail of that animal, it always bends downward and in-
ward, fo that it is entirely hid by the long hair of the
rump and hind quarters: the hunch on their fhoulders is
not large, being little more in proportion than that of a
deer: their hair is in fome parts very long, particularly
_on the belly, fides, and hind quarters; but the longeft
hair about them, particularly the bulls, is under the throat,
extending from the chin to the lower part of the cheft,
between the fore-legs; it there hangs down like a horfe’s
mane inverted, and is full as long, which makes the ani-
mal have a moft formidable appearance. It is of the hair
from this part that the Efquimaux make their mufketto

* Mr. Dragge fays, inhis Voyage, vol. it. p. 260, that the mufk-ox is lower
than a deer, but larger as to belly and quarters; which is very far from the
truth; they are of the fize I have here defcribed them, and the Indians always.
eftimate the flefh of a full-grown cow to be equal in quantity to three deer.
I am forry alfo to be obliged to contradict my friend Mr. Graham, who fays
that the flefh of this animal is carried on fledges to Prince of Wales’s Fort,
to the amount of three or four thoufand pounds annually. To the amount of
near one thoufand pounds may have been purchafed from the natives in fome
particular years, but it more frequently happens that not an ounce is brought
one year out of five. In faét, it is by no means efteemed by the Company’s

_fervants, and of courfe no great encouragement is given to introduce it; but
if it had been otherwife, their general fituation is fo remote from the fettle-
ment, that it would not be worth the Indians while to haul it to the Fort. So
that, in faét, all thar has ever been carried to Prince of Wales’s Fort, has moft
affuredly been killed out of a herd that has been accidentally found within a
moderate diftance of the fettlement; perhaps an hundred miles, which is only
thought a ftep by an Indian.

ut | wigs,

"37

1771.
July.

136

1771.
July.

A )-O}00RN EY) TIO' T BE

wigs, and not from the tail, as is aflerted by Mr. Ellis * ;
their tails, and the hair which is on them, being too fhort
for that purpofe. In Winter they are provided with a
thick fine wool, or furr, that grows at the root of the long
hair, and fhields them from the intenfe cold to which
they are expofed during that feafon; but as the Summer
advances, this furr loofens from the fkin, and, by fre-
quently rolling themfelves on the ground, it works out
to the end of the hair, and in time drops off, leaving
little for their Summer clothing except the long hair.
This feafon is fo fhort in thofe high latitudes, that the
new fleece begins to appear, almoft as foon as the old one
drops off; fo that by the time the cold becomes fevere,
they are again provided with a Winter-drefs.

The flefh of the mufk-ox noways refembles that of the
Weftern buffalo, but is more like that of the moofe or
elk ; and the fat is of a clear white, flightly tinged with
a light azure. The calves and young heifers are good
eating; but the flefh of the bulls both {mells and taftes
fo ftrong of mufk, as to render it very difagreeable: even
the knife that cuts the flefh of an old bull will fmell fo
{trong of mufk, that nothing but fcowring the blade quite
bright can remove it, and the handle will retain the fcent
for a long time. Though no part of a bull is free from
this fmell, yet the parts of generation, in particular the
urethra, are by far the moft ftrongly impregnated. The

* Voyage to Hudfon’s Bay, p. 232.
urine,

NORTHERN OWE A N.

urine itfelf muft contain this fcent in a very great degree ;
for the fheaths of the bull’s penis are corroded with a
brown gummy fubftance, which is nearly as high-fcented
with mufk as that faid to be produced by the civet cat ;

and after having been kept for feveral years, feems not to

lofe any of tts quality.

On the eighth, the weather was fine and moderate,
though not without fome fhowers of rain. Early in the
morning we fet out, and walked eighteen miles to the
Northward. The Indians killed fome deer; fo we put
up by the fide of a fmall creek, that afforded a few wil-
lows, with which we made a fire for the firft time fince
our leaving Congecathawhachaga; confequently it was here
that we cooked our firft meal for a whole week. This,
as may naturally be fuppofed, was well relifhed by all

parties, the Indians as well as myfelf. And as the Sun

had, in the courfe of the day, dried our clothing, in fpite
of the fmall fhowers of rain, we felt ourfelves more com-
fortable than we had done fince we left the women.
The place where we lay that night, is not far from
Grizzled Bear Hill; which takes its name from the num-
bers of thofe animals that are frequently known to refort
thither for the purpofe of bringing forth their young in a
eave that is found there. The wonderful defcription
which the Copper Indians gave of this place exciting
the curiofity of feveral of my companions as well as
= we went to view it; but on our arrival at it

T 2° found

139

1771.
(ces mee 4

july.

Sth.

140

1771

July.

AJ OUR MEM TO a ae

found little worth remarking about it, being no more than
a high lump of earth, of a loamy quality, of which
kind there are feveral others in the fame neighbourhood,
all anding in the middle of a large marfh, which makes
them refemble fo many iflands ina lake. The fides of
thefe hills are quite perpendicular; and the height. of
Grizzled Bear Hill, which is the largeft, is about twenty
feet above the level ground that furrounds it. Their
fummits are covered with a thick fod of mofs and long .
erafs, which in fome places projects over the edge; and
as the fides are conftantly mouldering away, and wafhing
down with every fhower of rain during the fhort Summer,
they muft in time be levelled with the marfh in which |
they are fituated. At prefent thofe iflands, as I call
them, are excellent places of retreat for the birds which
migrate there to breed; as they can bring forth their
young in perfect fafety from every beaft except the Que-
quehatch, which, from the fharpnefs of its claws and the
amazing ftrength of its legs, is iit of afcending the
moft difficult precipices.

On the fide of the hill that I went to furvey, there is a
large cave which penetrates a confiderable way into the rock,
and may probably have been the work of the bears, as we
could difcover vifible marks that fome of thofe beafts had
been there that Spring. This, though deemed very cu -
rious by fome of my companions, did not appear fo
to me, as it neither engaged my attention, nor raifed my

furprife,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

furprife, half fo much as the fight of the many hills and
dry ridges on the Eaft fide of the marfh, which are turned
ever like ploughed land by thofe animals, in fearching for
ground-{quirrels, and perhaps mice, which conftitute a
favourite part of their food. It is furprifing to fee the
extent of their refearches in queft of thofe animals,
and {till more to view the enormous ftones rolled out of
their beds by the bears on thofe occafions. At firft I
thought thefe long and deep furrows had been effected by

lightning ; but the natives affured me they never knew

any thing of the kind happen in thofe parts, and that it —

was entirely the work of the bears feeking for their prey.

On the ninth, the weather was moderate and cloudy,
with fome flying fhowers of rain. We fet out early in the
morning, and walked about forty miles to the North and
North by Eaft. In our way we faw plenty of deer and
mufk-oxen: feveral of the former the Indians killed, but
a {mart fhower of rain coming on juft as we were going
to put up, made the mofs {fo wet as to render it impradti-
cable to light a fire. The next day proving fine and
clear, we fet out in the morning, and walked twenty
miles to the North by Weft and North North Weft; but
about noon the weather became fo hot and fultry as to
render walking very difagreeable; we therefore put up
on the top of a high hill, and as the mofs was then dry,
lighted a fire, and fhould have made a comfortable
meal, and been otherwife tolerably happy, had it not been

for

r4t

1771.
july. .

oth.

I cth.

42
1771.
July.

gith.

A JOURNEY TO THE

for the mufkettoes, which were uncommonly numerous,
and their ftings almoft infufferable. The fame day Ma-
tonabbee fent feveral Indians a-head, with orders to pro-
ceed to the Copper-mine River as faft as poffible, and ac-
quaint any Indians they might meet, of our approach. By
thofe Indians I alfo fent fome {mall prefents, as the fureft
means to induce any ftrangers they found, to come to our
afliftance,

The eleventh was hot and fultry, like the preceding
day. In the morning we walked ten or eleven miles to
the North Weft, and then met a Northern Indian Leader,
called Oule-eye, and his family, who were, in company
with feveral Copper Indians, killing deer with bows and
arrows and fpears, as they crofled a little river, by the
fide of which we put up, as did alfo the above-mentioned
Indians *, That afternoon I {moked my calumet of peace
with thefe ftrangers, and found them a quite different fet
of people, at leaft in principle, from thofe I had feen at
Congecathawhachaga: for though they had great plenty
of provifions, they neither offered me nor my companions
a mouthful, and would, if they had been permitted,
have taken the laft garment from off my back, and rob-
bed me of every article I pofleffed. Even my Northern
companions could not help taking notice of fuch unac-
countable behaviour. Nothing but their poverty pro-

* This river runs nearly North Eaft, and in all probability empties itfelf
inte the Northern Ocean, not far from the Copper River.

tected

NORTHERN OCEAN.

tected them from being plundered by thof of my crew ;
-and had any of their women been worth notice, they
would moft affuredly have been preffed into our fervice.

The twelfth was fo exceedingly hot and fultry, that
we did not move; but early in the morning of the thir-
teenth, after my companions had taken what dry pro-
vifions they chofe from our unfociable ftrangers, we fet
out, and walked about fifteen or fixteen miles to the
_ North and North by Eaft, in expeétation of arriving at
the Copper-mine River that day; but when we had
reached the top of a long chain of hills, between which
we were told the river ran, we found it to be no more
than a branch of it which empties itfelf into the main
river about forty miles from its influx into the fea. At
that time all the Copper Indians were difpatched different
ways, fo that there was not one in company who knew
the fhorteft cut to the main river. Seeing fome woods to
the Weftward, and judging that the current of the rivulet
ran that way, we concluded that the main river lay in that
direction, and was not very remote from our prefent fitu-
ation. We therefore directed our courfe by the fide of it,
when the Indians met with feveral very fine buck deer,
which they deftroyed; and as that part we now traverfed
afforded plenty of good fire-wood, we put up, and cooked
the moft comfortable meal to which we had fat down for
fome months. As fuch favourable opportunities of in-
dulging the appetite happen but feldom, it is a general

c rule

143

177%.
4

July.

I 2th,

13th.

144

1771.
July.

A JOURNEY TO THE

rule with the Indians, which we did not negled@, to exert
every art in drefling our food which the moft refined fkill
in Indian cookery has been able to invent, and which

confifts chiefly in boiling, broiling, and roafting: but of

all the difhes cooked by thofe people, a deeatee, as it is

called in their language, is certainly the moft delicious, at
leaft for a change, that can be prepared from a deer only,
without any other ingredient. It is a kind of haggis,
made with the blood, a good quantity of fat fhred fmall,
fome of the tendereft of the flefh, together with the heart
and lungs cut, or more commonly torn into fmall fhivers ;
all which is put into the ftomach, and roafted, by be-
ing fufpended before the fire by a ftring. Care muft be
taken that it does not get too much heat at firft, as the
bag would thereby be liable to be burnt, and the contents
be let out. When it is fufficiently done, it will emit
fteam, in the fame manner as a fowl or a joint of meat ;
which is as much as to fay, Come, eat me now: and if it

be taken in time, before the blood and other contents

are too much done, it is certainly a moft delicious moriel,
even without pepper, falt, or any other feafoning.

After regaling ourfelves in the moft plentiful manner,
and taking a few hours reft, (for it was almoft impoflible
to fleep for the mufkettoes,) we once more fet forward, |
dire@ting our courfe to the North Weft by Weft; and
after walking about nine or ten miles, arrived at that
long wifhed-for fpot, the Copper-mine River.

NORTHERN OCEAN, | "tals

CHAP. (VE

TranfaGtions at the Copper-mine River, and till we joined
all the women to the South of Cogead Lake.

Some Copper Indians join us.—Indians fend three fpres dowm the river.—
— Begin my furvey.—Spies return, and give an account of jive tents of:
Efquimaux.—Indians confult the beft method to freal on them in the
night, and kill them while afleep.—Crofs the river.—Proceedings of
the Indians as they advance towards the E/quimaux tents.—The Indians
begin the maffacre while the poor Efquimaux are afleep, and flay them
all—Much affected at the fight of one young woman killed clofe to my
feet.—The behaviour of the Indians on this occafion.—T heir brutifh treat-
ment of the dead bodies.—Seven more tents feen on the oppofite fide of the
viver.—The Indians harafs them, till they fly to a fhoal in the river for
Sofety.—Behaviour of the Indians after killing thofe E/quimaux.—Crofs
the river, and proceed to the tents on that fide-—Plunder their tents,
and deftroy their utenfils.—Continue my furvey to the river's mouth.—
Remarks there.—Set out on my return.—Arrive at one of the Copper-
mines—Remarks on it.—Many attempts made to induce the Copper
Indians to carry their own goods to market.—Obftacles to it.—Villany
and cruelty of Keelfbies to fome of thofe poor Indians.—Leave the Copper~
mine, and walk at an amazing rate till we join the women, by the fide
of Cogead Whoie.—Much foot-foundered.—T he appearance very alarm-
ing, but foon changes for the better.—Proceed to the Southward, and
join the remainder of the women and children—Many other Indians

arrive with them.

We. had fcarcely arrived at the Copper-mine River 1771.
when four Copper Indians joined us, and brought j7-~
with them two canoes. They had feen all the Indians who "4%

were fent from us at various times, except Matonabbee’s
U brother,

146

1771.
named

july.

A meOrU RUN GEO a
brother, and three others that were firft difpatched from
Congecathawhachaga. |

On my arrival here I was not a little furprifed to find |
the river differ fo much from the defcription which the

Indians had given of it at the Factory; for, inftead of

being .fo large as to be navigable for fhipping, as it
had been reprefented by them, it was at that part {carcely
navigable for an Indian canoe, being no more than one
hundred and eighty yards wide, every where full of fhoals,
and no lefs than three falls were in fight at firft view.

Near the water’s edge there is fome wood ; but not one
tree grows on or near the top of the hills between which
the riverruns. There appears to have been formerly a much
greater quantity than there is at prefent; but the trees
feem to have been fet on fire fome years ago, and, in con-

fequence, there is at prefent ten fticks lying on the ground,

for one green one which is growing befide them. The

whole timber appears to have been, even in its greateft pro-

fperity, of fo crooked and dwarfith a growth as to render
it of little ufe for any purpofe but fire-wood.

Soon after our arrival at the river-fide, three Indians
were fent off as fpies, in order to fee if any Efquimaux
were inhabiting the river-fide between us and the fea.
After walking about three quarters of a mile by the fide,
of the river, we put up, when moft of the Indians went a

hunting,

"NORTHERN OCEAN.

hunting, and killed feveral mufk-oxen and fome deer.
They were employed all the remainder of the day and
night in fplitting and drying the meat by the fire. Aswe
were not then in want of provifions, and as deer and other
animals were fo plentiful, that each day’s journey might
have provided for itfelf, I was at a lofs to account for this
unufual ceconomy of my companions; but was foon in-
formed, that thofe preparations were made with a view to
have victuals enough ready-cooked to ferve us to the river’s
mouth, without being obliged to kill any in our way, as
the report of the guns, and the {moke of the fires, would be
liable to alarm the natives, if any fhould be near at hand,
and give them an opportunity of efcaping.

Early in the morning of the fifteenth, we fet out, when
I immediately began my furvey, which I continued about
ten miles down the river, till heavy rain coming on we
were obliged to put up; and the place where we lay that
night was the end, or edge of the woods, the whole {pace be-
tween it and the fea being entirely barren hills and wide open
marfhes. In the courfe of this day’s furvey, I found the
river as full of fhoals as the part which I had feen before ;
and in many places it was fo greatly diminifhed in its width,
that in our way we pafled by two more capital falls,

Early in the morning of the fixteenth, the weether
being fine and pleafant, I again proceeded with my fur-
vey, and continued it for ten miles farther down the iver;

147

1771.
July.

sth,

S a6th.

148

I V7 I.
eaaeromcmn -tmemasd
July.

A JOURNEY. TO THE

but fill found it the fame as before, being every where
full of falls and fhoals. At this time (it being about
noon) the three men who had been fent as {pies met us on
their return, and informed my companions that five tents
of Efquimaux were on the weft fide of the river. The

fituation, they faid, was very convenient for furprifing
them; and, according to their account, I judged it to

be about twelve miles from the place we met the fpies. -
When the Indians received this intelligence, no farther
attendance or attention was paid to my furvey, but their
whole thoughts were immediately engaged in planning the
beft method of attack, and how they might fteal on the
poor Efquimaux the enfuing night, and kill them all
while afleep. To accomplifh this bloody defign more
effectually, the Indians thought it neceflary to crofs the
river as foon as poflible ; and, by the account of the fpies,
it appeared that no part was more convenient for the pur-
pofe than that where we had met them, it being there
very fmooth, and at a confiderable diftance from any fall.
Accordingly, after the Indians had put all their guns,
{fpears, targets, &c. in good order, we crofled ‘the river, -
which took up fome time.

When we arrived on the Weft fide of the river, each
painted the front of his target or thield; fome with the
figure of the Sun, others with that of the Moon, feveral
with different kinds of birds and beafts of prey, and many |
with the images of imaginary beings, which, accord-

ing

NiGRTAHE RN’ sOVCIEIA N

ing to their filly notions, are the inhabitants of the different
elements, Earth, Sea, Air, &c.

On enquiring the reafon of their doing fo, I learned that
each man painted his fhicld with the image of that being
on which he relied moft for fuccefs in the intended en-
gagement. Some were contented with a fingle reprefent-
ation; while others, doubtful, as I fuppofe, of the quality
and power of any fingle being, had their fhields covered
to the very margin with a group of hieroglyphics quite
unintelligible to every one except the painter. Indeed,
from the hurry in which this bufinefs was neceffarily done,
the want of every colour but red and black, and the
deficiency of fkill in the artift, moft of thofe paintings
had more the appearance of a number of accidental
blotches, than ‘‘ of any thing that is on the earth, or in
“¢ the water under the earth;’ and though fome few of
them conveyed a tolerable idea of the thing intended, yet
even thefe were many degrees worfe than our country fign-

paintings in England.

When this piece of fuperftition was completed, we be-
gan to advance toward the E{quimaux tents ; but were very
careful to avoid crofling any hills, or talking loud, for fear
of being feen or overheard by the inhabitants; by which
means the diftance was not only much greater than it
otherwife would have been, but, for the fake of keeping

in the loweft grounds, we were obliged to walk through
2 entire

149

1774s
July.

150

1771.
{gga mena

A‘ (JOUR N@R 1 jr ge

entire f{wamps of ftiff marly clay, Teeperietcs up to the
knees. Our courfe, however, on this occafion, though
very ferpentine, was not altogether fo remote from the
tiver as entirely to exclude me from a view of it the whole
way: on the contrary, feveral times (according to the

_ fituation of the ground) we advanced fo near it, as to give

me an opportunity of convincing myfelf that it was as
unnavigable as it was in thofe parts which I had fur-
veyed before, and which entirely correfponded with the
accounts given of it by the {pies.

It is perhaps worth remarking, that my crew, though an
undifciplined rabble, and by no means accuftomed to war _
or command, feemingly acted on this horrid occafion with
the utmoft uniformity of fentiment. There was not
among them the leaft altercation or feparate opinion ; all
were united in the general caufe, and as ready to follow
where Matonabbee led, as he appeared to be ready to lead,
according to the advice of an old Copper Indian, who had
joined us on our firft arrival at the river where this bloody

bufinefs was firft propofed.

Never was reciprocity of intereft more generally regarded
among a number of people, than it was on the prefent
occafion by my crew, for not one was a moment in want
of any thing that another could fpare; and if ever the
{pirit of difinterefted friendfhip expanded the heart of

a Northern Indian, it was here exhibited in the moft ex-

tenfive

WO RYE HT ER N (OC EVAN.

tenfive meaning of the word. Property of every kind
that could be of general ufe now ceafed to be private, and
every one who had any thing which came under that de-
{cription, feemed proud of an opportunity of giving it,
or lending it to thofe who had none, or were moft in
want of it.

The number of my crew was fo much greater than that
which five tents could contain, and the warlike manner
in which they were equipped fo greatly fuperior to what
could be expected of the poor Efquimaux, that no lef
than a total maflacre of every one of them was likely to be
the cafe, unlefs Providence fhould work a miracle for their
deliverance. |

The land was fo fituated that we walked under ree

of the rocks and hills till we were within two hundred
yards of the tents. There we lay in ambufh for fome

time, watching the motions of the Efquimaux; and here

the Indians would have advifed me to ftay till the fight was
over, but to this I could by no means confent; for I con-
fidered that when the Efquimaux came to be furprifed,

they would try every way to efcape, and if they found me

alone, not knowing me from an enemy, they would pro-
bably proceed to violence againft me when no perfon was
near to affift. For this reafon I determined to accompany
them, telling them at the fame time, that I would not

have any hand in the murder they were about to commit,
| unlefs

151
17s
July.

152

177%,
July.

Ay O-U RUN EY Or ROR IE

unlefs I found it neceflary for my own fafety. The In-
dians were not difpleafed at this propofal; one of them.
immediately fixed me a fpear, and another lent mea
broad bayonet for my protection, but at that time I
could not be provided with a target ; nor did I want to be

~ encumbered with fuch an unneceffary piece of lumber.

While we lay in ambufh, the Indians ‘performed the laft
ceremonies which were thought neceflary before the en-
gagement. Thefe chiefly confifted in painting their faces ;
fome all black, fome all red, and others with a mixture of
the two; and to prevent their hair from blowing into their
eyes, it was either tied before and behind, and on both
fides, or elfe cut fhort all round. ‘The next thing they
confidered was to make themfelves as light as poflible for
running ; which they did, by pulling off their ftockings,
and either cutting off the fleeves of their jackets, or roll-
ing them up clofe to their arm-pits ; and though the muf-
kettoes at that time were fo numerous as to furpafs all cre-
bibility, yet fome of the Indians actually pulled off their
jackets and entered the lifts quite naked, except their
breech-cloths and fhoes. Fearing I might have occafion
to run with the reft, I thought it alfo advifable to pull
off my ftockings and cap, and to tie my hair as clofe up as

poffible.

' By the time the Indians had made themfelves thus
completely frightful, it was near one o’clock in the morn-

ing

WOR TOUTE RN WONG JE‘AIN.

ing of the feventeenth ; when finding all the Efquimaux
quiet in their tents, they rufhed forth from their ambuf-
cade, and fell on the poor unfufpecting creatures, unper-
ceived till clofe at the very eves of their tents, when
they foon began the bloody mafiacre, while [ ftood neuter
an tie-rear. °

In a few feconds the horrible fcene commenced; it was

fhocking beyond defcription; the poor unhappy victims

were furprifed in the midft of their fleep, and had neither

time nor power to make any refiftance ; men, women, and |

children, in all upward of twenty, ran out of their tents
ftark naked, and endeavoured to make their efcape; but
the Indians having poffeffion of all the land-fide, to no
place could they fly for fhelter. One alternative only remain-
ed, that of jumping into the river; but, as none of them
attempted it, they all fell a facrifice to Indian barbarity !

The fhrieks and groans of the poor expiring wretches
were truly dreadful ; and my horror was much increafed at
feeing a young girl, feemingly about eighteen years of age,
killed fo near me, that when the farft {pear was ftuck into
her fide fhe fell down at my feet, and twifted round my
legs, fo that it was with difficulty that I could difengage
myfelf from her dying grafps. As two Indian men pur-
fued this unfortunate victim, I folicited very hard for her
life; but the murderers made no reply till they had

{tuck.

153

1771.
eens otc

July.
17th.

154

177%.

July.

A JOURNEY TO THE
ftuck both their {pears through her body, and transfixed

her to the ground. They then looked me fternly in the

face, and began to ridicule me, by afking if I wanted an
Efquimaux wife; and paid not the {malleft regard to the
fhrieks and agony of the poor wretch, who was twining

round their fpears like an eel! Indeed, after receiving

much abufive language from them on the occafion, I was
at length obliged to defire that they would be more expe-

- ditious in difpatching their vi@tim out of her mifery, other-

wife I fhould be obliged, out of pity, to affift in the
friendly office of putting an end to the exiftence of a fel-
low-creature who was fo cruelly wounded, On this re-
gueft being made, one of the Indians haftily drew his
fpear from the place where it was firft lodged, and pierced
it through her breaft near the heart. The love of life,
however, even in this moft miferable ftate, was fo predo-
minant, that though this might juftly be called the moft
merciful aé that could be done for the poor creature, it
feemed to be unwelcome, for though much exhaufted by
pain and lofs of blood, fhe made feveral efforts to ward off
the friendly blow. My fituation and the terror of my
mind at beholding this butchery, cannot eafily be con-
ceived, much lefs defcribed; though I fummed up all the
fortitude I was mafter of on the occafion, it was with
difficulty that I could refrain from tears; and I am con-
fident that my features muft have feelingly exprefled how
fincerely I was affected at the barbarous fcene I then wit-
nefleds

WOR THERN OCEAN.

neffed ; even at this hour I cannot refle@ on the tranf-
aétions of that horrid day without fhedding tears.

The brutifh manner in which thefe favages’ufed the
bodies they had fo cruelly bereaved of life was fo fhock-
ing, that it would be indecent to defcribe it; particularly
their curiofity in examining, and the remarks they made,
on the formation of the women; which, they pretended
to fay, differed materially from that of their own. For
my own part I muft acknowledge, that however favour-
able the opportunity for determining that point might
have been, yet my thoughts at the time were too much
agitated to admit of any fuch remarks; and I firmly be-
lieve, that had there actually been as much difference be-
tween them as there is faid to be between the Hottentots
and thofe of Europe, it would not have been in my power
to have marked the diftin@tion. I have reafon to think,
however, that there is no ground for the affertion; and
really believe that the declaration of the Indians on this
- occafion, was utterly void of truth, and proceeded only from

the implacable hatred they bore to the whole tribe of.

people of whom I am fpeaking.

When the Indians had completed the murder of the
poor Efquimaux, feven other tents on the Eaft fide the
‘Tiver immediately engaged their attention: very luckily,
however, our canoes and baggage had been left at a
little diftance up the river, fo that they had no way of

: x 2 crofling

156

1771.
ren —mccenss)

July.

AY JOUR MBY TO Pee

crofling to get at them, ‘The river at this part being |
little more than eighty yards wide, they began firing at

them from the Weft fide. The poor Efquimaux on the

oppofite fhore, though all up in arms, did not attempt to

abandon their tents; and they were fo unacquainted with

the nature of fire-arms, that when the bullets ftruck the
ground, they ran in crowds to fee what was fent them,
and feemed anxious to examine all the pieces of lead
which they found flattened againft the rocks. At length
one of the E{quimaux men was fhot in the calf of his leg,
which put them in great confufion. They all imme-
diately embarked in their little canoes, and paddled to a
fhoal in the middle of the river, which being fomewhat
more than a gun-fhot from any part of the mee put them
out of the reach of our barbarians.

When the favages difcovered that the furviving ae 7
maux had gained the fhore above mentioned, the Northern ~
Indians began to plunder the tents of the deceafed of all
the copper utenfils they could find; fuch as hatchets, bay-
onets, knives, &c. after which they affembled on the top »
of an adjacent high hill, and ftanding all in a clufter, fo as
to form a folid circle, with their {pears erect in the air, gave
many fhouts of victory, conftantly clafhing their fpears
againft each other, and frequently calling out z¢imat
tima*! by way of derifion to the poor furviving Efqui-

_ * Tima in the Efquimaux language is a friendly word fimilar to what cheer ?

1 ) maux,

NOR T'H E RN (O/C 'E ‘AN.

maux, who were ftanding on the fhoal almoft knee-deep
in water. After parading the hill for fome time, it was
agreed to return up the river to the place where we had
left our canoes and baggage, which was about half a
mile diftant, and then to crofs the river again and plunder
the feven tents on the Eaft fide. This refolution was im-
mediately put in force; and as ferrying acrofs with only
three or four canoes* took a confiderable time, and as
we were, from the crookednefs of the river and the

form of the land, entirely under cover, feveral of the poor.
furviving Efquimaux, thinking probably that we were
gone about our bufinefs, and meant to trouble them no
more, had returned from the fhoal to their habitations..
When we approached their tents, which we did under

cover of the rocks, we found them bufily employed tying

up bundles. Thefe the Indians feized with their ufual

ferocity ; on which, the Efquimaux having their canoes

lying ready in the water, immediately embarked, and alk

of them got fafe to the former fhoal, except an old man,.
who was fo intent on colleéting his things, that the In-
dians coming upon him before he could reach his canoe,.
he fell a facrifice to their fury: I verily believe not lefs than
twenty had a hand in his death, as his whole body was like
a cullender. It is here neceflary to obferve that the {pies,

* ‘When the fifteen Indians turned back at the Stony Mountains, they took
two or three canoes with them; fome of our crew that were fent a-head as.
meffengers had not yet,returned, which occafioned the number of our canoes to.
be fo {mall,

| when:

od

15

7

I771.
Noe

July.

158

1771.
beer seemed
July.

A JOURNEYi TO THE

when on the look-out, could not fee thefe feven tents,
though clofe under them, as the bank, on which they
{tood, ftretched over them.

It ought to have been mentioned in its proper place,
that in making our retreat up the river, after killing the
Efquimaux on the Weft fide, we faw an old woman fitting
by the fide of the water, killing falmon, which lay at the
foot of the fall as thick as a fhoal of herrings. Whether
from the noife of the fall, or a natural defe& in the old
woman’s hearing, it is hard to determine, but certain it is,
fhe had no knowledge of the tragical {cene which had been
fo lately tranfaéted at the tents, though fhe was not more
than two hundred yards from the place. When we firft per-
ceived her, fhe feemed perfectly at eafe, and was entirely
furrounded with the produce of her labour. From her man-
ner of behaviour, and the appearance of her eyes, which
were as red as blood, it is more than probable that her
fight was not very good; for fhe fcarcely difcerned that
the Indians were enemies, till they were within twice the
length of their fpears of her. It was in vain that fhe at-
tempted to fly, for the wretches of my crew transfixed
ner to the ground in a few feconds, and butchered her
in the moft favage manner. ‘There was fcarcely a man

- among them who had not a thruft at her with his fpear ;

and many in doing this, aimed at torture, rather than
immediate death, as they not only poked out her eyes,

but

NORTHERN OCEAN.

but ftabbed her in many parts very remote from thofe
which are vital.

It may appear ftrange, that a perfon fuppofed to be
almoft blind fhould be employed in the bufinefs of fifhing,
and particularly with any degree of fuccefs; but when
the multitude of fifh is taken into the account, the won-
der will ceafe. Indeed they were fo numerous at the foot
of the fall, that when a light pole, armed with a few fpikes,
which was the inftrument the old woman ufed, was put
under water, and hauled up with a jerk, it was {carcely
poflible to mifs them. Some of my Indians tried the
method, for curiofity, with the old woman’s ftaff, anc:
feldom got lefs than two at a jerk, fometimes three or
four. Thofe fifh, though very fine, and beautifully red,
are but fmall, feldom weighing more (as near as I could
judge) than fix or feven pounds, and in general much lefs.
Their numbers at this place were almoft incredible, per-
haps equal to any thing that is related of the falmon in
Kamfchatka, or any other part of the world. It does
not appear that the Efquimaux have any othcr method of
catching the fifh, unlefs it be by fpears and darts; for no
appearance of nets was difcovered either at their tents, or
on any part of the fhore. This is the cafe with all the
Efquimaux on the Weft fide of Hudfon’s Bay; {pearing.
in Summer, and angling in Winter, are the only me-
thods they have yet devifed to catch fith, though at

5: times.

159

1771,
Knee poner.)

July.

160

17 7a?
July.

A 1} 0.08 NIEWE TO! se E

times their whole dependance for fupport is on that ar-

ticle * :
When

* When the Efquimaux who refide near Churchill River travel in W inter,

it 1s always from lake to lake, or from river to river, where they have formed

magazines of provifions, and heaps of mofs for firing. As fome of thofe
places are at a confiderable diftance from each other, and fome of the lakes of
confiderable width, they frequently pitch their tents on the ice, and inftead of
having a fire, which the feverity of the climate fo much ‘requires, they cut
holes in the ice within their tents, and there fit and angle for fifh; if they
meet with any fuccefs, the fifh are eaten alive out of the water 3 and when
they are thirfty, water, their ufual beverage, 1s at hand. )

When I firft entered into the employment of the Fludfon’s Bay Convers,
it was as Mate of one of their floops which was employed in trading with the
Efquimaux; I had therefore frequent opportunities of obferving the mifer-
able manner in which thofe people live. Inthe courfe of our trade with them
we frequently purchafed feveral feal-fkin bags, which we fuppofed were full of
oil; but on opening them have fometimes found great quantities of venifon,
feals, and fea-horfe paws, as well as falmon; and as thefe were of no ufe to
us, we always returned them to the Indians, who eagerly devoured them, though
fome of the articles had been perhaps a whole year in that ftate; and hey
feemed to exult greatly in having fo over-reached us in the way of trade, as
to have fometimes one third of their bargain returned.

This method of preferving their foed, though it effectually guards it from
the external air, and from the flies, does not prevent putrefaction entirely,
though it renders its progrefs very flow. Pure train oil is of fuch a quality
that it never freezes folid in the coldeft Winters; a happy circumftance
for thofe people, who are condemned to live in the moft rigorous climate
without the. affiftance of fire. While thefe magazines laft, they have no-
thing more to do when hunger affails them, but to open one of the bags,
take out a fide of venifon, a few feals, fea-horfe paws, or fome half-rotten
falmon, and without any preparation, fit down and make a meal; and the lake
or river by which they pitch their tent, affords them water, which is their con-
ftant drink. Befides the extraordinary food already mentioned, they have fe-

veral

NORTHERN: @O;C EAN.

When the Indians had plundered the feven tents of ail
the copper utenfils, which feemed the only thing worth
their

veral other difhes equally difgufting to an European palate; I will only mention
One, as it was more frequently part of their repaft when I vifited their tents,
than any other, except fifh. The difh I allude to, is made of the raw liver of a
deer, cut in fmall pieces of about an inch fquare, and mixed up with the con-
tents of the ftomach of the fame animal; and the farther digeftion has taken place,
the better it is fuited to their tafte. It is impoffible to defcribe or cconeive
the pleafure they feem to enjoy when eating fuch unaccountable food: nay, I
have even feen them eat whole handfuls of maggots that were produced in
meat by fly-blows; and it is their con{tant cuftom, when their nofes bleed by
any accident, to lick their blood into their mouths, and fwallow it. Indeed, if
we confider the inhofpitable part of the globe they are deftined to inhabit, and
the great diftreffes to which: they are frequently driven by hunger in confe-
quence of it, we fhall no longer be furprifed at finding they can relifh any thing
in common with the meaneft of the animal creation, but rather admire the
wifdom and kindnefs of Providence in forming the palates and powers of all
creatures in fuch a manner as isbeft adapted to the food, climate, and every
other circumftance which may be incident to their refpective fituations.

It is no lefs true, that thefe people, when I firft knew them, would not
eat any of our provifions, fugar, raifins, figs, or even bread; for though
fome of them would put a bit of it into their mouths, they foon fpit it out
again with evident marks of diflike; fo that they had no greater relifh for
our food than we had for theirs. At prefent, however, they will eat any part
of our provifions, either frefh or falted; and fome of them will drink a draft
of porter, or a little brandy and water; and they are now fo far civilized, and
attached to the Englifh, that I am perfuaded any of the Company’s fervants
who could habituate themfelves to their diet and manner of life, might now
live as fecure under their protection, as under that of any of the tribes of In-
dians who border on Hudfon’s Bay.

They live in a ftate of perfect freedom; no one apparently claiming
the fuperiority over, or acknowledging the leaft fubordination to another,
¥ > \@xcept

161

1771.
(armen roaccaal

July.

162

1 Phi I e
ie eed)
July. -

g7th.

A ‘JOURN EY aie THE

their notice, they threw all the tents and tent-poles into.
the river, deftroyed a vaft quantity of dried falmon, mufk-
oxen flefh, and other provifions; broke all the ftone
kettles; and, in fact, did all the mifchief they poflibly
could to diflrefs the poor creatures they could not mur-
der, and who were ftanding on the fhoal before men-
tioned, obliged to be woeful {pectators of their great, or
perhaps irreparable lofs.

After the Indians had completed this piece of wanton-
nefs we fat down, and made a good meal of frefh falmon,
which were as numerous at the place where we now refted,
as they were on the Weft fide of the river. When we had
finifhed our meal, which was the farft we had enjoyed for
many hours, the aia told me that they were again ready
to affift me in making an end of my furvey. It was then
about five o’clock in the morning of the feventeenth, the
fea being in fight from the North Weft by Weft to the
North Eaft, about eight miles diftant. I therefore fet in-
{tantly about commencing my furvey, and purfued it to the
mouth of the river, which I found all the way fo full of
fhoals and falls that it was not navigable even for a boat,
and that it emptied itfelf into the fea over a ridge or bar.

except what is due from children to their parents, or fuch of their kin as take
care of them when they are young and incapable of providing for themfelves.
There is, however, reafon to think that, when grown up to manhood, they
pay fome attention to the advice of the old men, on account of their ex-
perience, x

2 : The

NORTHERN OCEAN.

The tide was then out; but I judged from the marks
which I faw on the edge of the ice, that it flowed about
twelve or fourteen feet, which will only reach a little way
within the river’s mouth. The tide being out, the water
in the river was perfectly frefh; but I am certain of its
being the fea, or fome branch of it, by the quantity of
whalebone and feal-fkins which the Efquimaux had at
their tents, and alfo by the number of feals which I faw on
the ice. At the mouth of the river, the fea is full of iflands
and fhoals, as far as I could fee with the affiftance of a good.
poeket telefcope. The ice was not then broke up, but was
melted away for about three quarters of a mile from the main
fhore, and to a little diftance round the iflands and fhoals.

- By the time I had completed this furvey, it was about
one in the morning of the eighteenth ; but in thofe high
latitudes, and at this feafon of the year, the Sun is always
at a good height above the horizon, fo that we had not only
day-light, but fun-fhine the whole night: a thick fog and
drizzling rain then came on, and finding that neither the
river nor fea were likely to be of any ufe, I did not think
it worth while to wait for fair weather to determine the
latitude exa@tly by an obfervation; but by the extraordi-
nary care I took in obferving the courfes and diftances
when I walked from Congecathawhachaga, where I had
two good obfervations, the latitude may be depended upon
within twenty miles at the utmoft. For the fake of form,

Y 2 however,

163

1771.
July.

18th,

104

1771.

* July.

A JOURNEY #20 apa

| however, after having had fome confultation with the In-

dians, I ereéted.a mark, and took poffeffion of the coaft,
on behalf of the Hudfon’s Bay Company.

‘Having finifhed this bufinefs, we fet out on our return,
and walked about twelve miles to the South by Eaft,
when we {topped and took a little fleep, which was the firft
time that any of us had clofed our eyes from the fifteenth
inflant, and it was now fix o’clock in the morning of the
eighteenth. Here the Indians killed a mufk-ox, but the
mofs being very wet, we could not make a fire, fo that we
were obliged to eat the meat raw, which was intolerable,

as it happened to be an old beaft.

Before I proceed farther on my return, it may not be
improper to give fome account of the river, and the country
adjacent; its productions, and the animals which con-

ftantly inhabit thofe dreary regions, as well as thofe that

only migrate thither in Summer, in order to breed and
rear their young, unmolefted by man. That I may do
this to better purpofe, it will be neceflary to go back to
the place where I firft came to the river, which was about
forty miles from its mouth.

Befide the ftunted pines already mentioned, there are
fome tufts of dwarf willows ;. plenty of Wifhacumpuckey,
(as the Englifh call it, and which MEY ufe as tea); fome

jacka-

Plt |

To face Page 104

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COPPER-MINE RIVER,
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Needle seilp! ge Strand.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

jackafheypuck, which the natives ufe as tobacco; anda
few poonerty and heathberry bufhes; but not the leaft
appearance of any fruit.

The woods grow gradually thinner and fmaller as you
approach the fea; and the laft little tuft of pines that I
faw is about ehiinty miles from the mouth of the river, fo
that we meet with nothing between that fpot and the fea-
fide but barren hills and marfhes.

The general courfe of the river is about North by Eaft;
but in fome places it is very crooked, and its breadth
varies from twenty yards to four or five hundred. The
_ banks are in general a folid rock, both fades of which cor-
refpond fo exactly with each es as to leave no doubt
that the channel of the river has been caufed by fome ter-
rible convulfion of nature; and the ftream is fupplied by
a variety of little rivulets, ane rufh down the fides of the
hills, occafioned chiefly by the melting of the fnow. Some of
the Indians fay, that this river takes its rife from the North
Welt fide of Large White Stone Lake, which is at the diftance
- of near three hundred miles on a ftraight line; but I can
fearcely think that is the cafe, unlefs there be many inter-
vening lakes, which are fupplied by the vaft quantity of
water that is collected in fo great an extent of hilly and
mountainous country: for were it otherwife, I fhould
imagine that the multitude of {mall rivers, which mutt
empty themfelves into the main ftream in the courfe of fo

great

165

Tigo

July.

166

1771.
Re ee!
July.

Ai JOURNEY 110 (tHe

ereat a diftance, would have formed a much deeper
and ftronger current than I difcovered, and occafioned
an annual deluge at the breaking up of the ice in ©
the Spring, of which there was not the leaft appear-
ance, except at Bloody Fall, where the river was con-
tracted to the breadth of about twenty yards. ‘It was at
the foot of this fall that my Indians killed the Efquimaux ;
which was the reafon why I diftinguifhed it by that appel-
lation. From this fall, which is about eight miles from
the fea-fide, there are very few hills, and thofe not high.
The land between them is a {tiff loam and clay, which,
in fome parts, produces patches of pretty good grafs, .and
in others tallifh dwarf willows: at the foot of the hills
alfo there is plenty of fine {curvy-grafs.

The Efquimaux at this river are but low in ftature,

“none: exceeding the middle fize, and though broad fet,

are neither well-made nor ftrong bodied. Their com-
plexion is of a dirty copper colour; fome of the women,
however, are more fair and ruddy. Their drefs much re-
fembles that of the Greenlanders in Davis’s Straits, except
the women’s boots, which are not ftiffened out with whale-
bone, and the tails of their jackets are not more than a
foot long.

Their arms and fafhing-tackle are bows and arrows,
{fpears, lances, darts, &c. which exactly refemble thofe
made ufe of by the Efquimaux in Hudion’s Straits, and

which

LO GUR. FOIE KR Nv Ov BA N.t
which have been well defcribed by Crantz*; but, for

want of good edge- tools, are far inferior to heiiih in oe
manfhip. Their arrows are either fhod with a triangular
piece of black ftone, like flate, or a piece copper; but
moft commonly the former.

The body of their canoes is on the fame conftruction
as that of the other Efquimaux, and there is no unneceffary

prow-projection beyond the body of the veflel; thefe,

like their arms and other utenfils, are, for the want of

better tools, by no means fo neat as thofe I have feen in
Hudfon’s Bay and Straits. The double-bladed paddle is
in univerfal ufe among all the tribes of this people.

Their tents are made of parchment deer-fkins in the
hair, and are pitched in a circular form, the fame as thofe
of the Efquimaux in Hudfon’s Bay. Thefe tents are un-
doubtedly no more than their Summer habitations, for I
faw the remains of two miferable hovels, which, from the
fituation, the ftru€ture, and the vaft quantity of bones,
old foes, {craps of fkins, and other rubbifh lying near
them, had certainly been fome of their Winter retreats.
Thefe houfes were fituated on the South fide of a hill;
one half of them were under-ground, and the upper parts
clofely fet round with poles, meeting at the'top in a conical
form, like their Summer-houfes or tents. Thefe tents,

* See Hitt, of Greenland, vol,i, p. 132——156.
when

167
1771.

Se |

July.

A JOUR Ne nO wae

when inhabited, had undoubtedly been covered with {kins ;
and in Winter entirely overfpread with the fnow-drift,
which muft have greatly contributed to their warmth.
They were fo {mall, that they did not contain more than
fix or eight perfons each; and even that number of any other

people would have found them but miferable habitations.

Their houfehold furniture chiefly confifts of ftone
kettles, and wooden troughs of various fizes; alfo difhes,
{coops, and fpoons, made of the buffalo or mufk-ox horns.
Their kettles are formed of a pepper and falt coloured
ftone ; and though the texture appears. to be very coarfe,
and as porous as a drip-ftone, yet they are perfectly tight,
and will found as clear as a China bowl. © Some of thofe
kettles are fo large as to be capable of containing five or fix
gallons ; and though it is impoflible thefe poor people can
perform this arduous work with any other tools than harder
ftones, yet they are by far fuperior to any that I had ever feen
in Hudfon’s Bay; every one of them being ornamented
with neat mouldings round the rim, and fome of the large
ones with a kind of flute-work at each corner. In fhape
they were a long {quare, fomething wider at the top than
bottom, like a knife-tray, and ftrong handles of the folid
ftone were left at each end to lift them up.

Their hatchets are made of a thick lump of copper,
about five or fix inches long, and from one and a half to
two inches fquare; they are bevelled away at one end like

a mortice-

NORTHERN OCEAN.

mortice-chiffel. This is lafhed into the end of a piece of
wood about twelve or fourteen inches long, in fuch a man-
ner as to act like an adze: in general they are applied to
the wood like a chiffel, and driven in with a heavy club,
inftead of a mallet. Neither the weight of the tool nor
the fharpnefs of the metal will admit of their being
handled ‘either as adze or axe, with any degree of fuccefs.

The men’s bayonets and women’s knives are alfo made

of copper; the former are in fhape like the ace of fpades,

with the handle of deers horn a foot long, and the latter
exactly refemble thofe defcribed by Crantz. Samples of
both thefe implements I formerly fent home to James Fitz-
gerald, Efq. then one of the Hudfon’s Bay Committee.

Among all the fpoils of the twelve tents which my com-
panions plundered, only two {mall pieces of iron were
found; one of which was about an inch and a half
long, and three eighths of an inch broad, made into a
woman’s knife; the other was barely an inch long, and a
- quarter of an inch wide. ‘This laft was rivetted into a
piece of ivory, fo as to form a than’s knife, known in
Hudfon’s Bay by the name of Mokeatoggan, and is the
only inftrument ufed by them in fhaping all their wood-
work. |

Thofe people had a fine and numerous breed of dogs,

with fharp erect ears, fharp nofes, bufhy tails, &c. ex-
Z actly

169
1771.
July.

170

1771.

July.

A WF OURNEWM iO THE

actly like thofe feen among the Efquimaux in Hudfon’s
Bay and Straits. They were all tethered to ftones, to pre-
vent them, as I fuppofe, from eating the fith that were
{pread all over the rocks to dry. I do not recolleé that
my companions killed or hurt one of thofe animals; but
after we had left the tents, they often wifhed they had
taken fome of thofe fine dogs with them.

Though the drefs, canoes, utenfils, and many other
articles belonging to thefe people, are very fimilar to
thofe of Hudfon’s Bay, yet there is one cuftom that pre-
vails among them—namely, that of the men having all
the hair of their heads pulled out by the roots—which
pronounces them to be of a different tribe from any
hitherto feen either on the coaft of Labradore, Hudfon’s
Bay, or Davis’s Straits. ‘The women wore their hair at.
full length, and exactly in the fame ftile as all the other
Ef{quimaux women do whom I have feen.

When at the fea-fide, (at the mouth sf the Copper River,)
befides feeing many feals on the ice, I alfo obferved {everal
flocks of fea-fowl flying about the fhores; fuch as, gulls,
black-heads, loons, old wives, ha-ha-wie’s, dunter geefe,
arctic gulls, and willicks. In the adjacent ponds alfo were
fome fwans and geefe in a moulting ftate, and in the
marfhes fome curlews and plover; plenty of hawks-eyes,
(i. e. the green plover,) and fome yellow-legs ; alfo feveral
other fmall birds, that vifit thofe Northern parts in the

Spring

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Spring to breed and moult, and which doubtlefs return
Southward as the fall advances. My reafon for this conjec-
ture is founded on a certain knowledge that all thofe birds
migrate in Hudfon’s Bay; and it is but reafonable to think
that they are lefs capable of withftanding the rigour of
- fuch a long and cold Winter as they muft neceffarily ex-
perience in a country which is fo many degrees within the
Arétic Circle, as that is where I now faw them.

That the mufk-oxen, deer, bears, wolves, wolvarines,

foxes, Alpine hares, white owls, ravens, partridges, ground-
{quirrels, common {quirrels, ermins, mice, &c. are the
_conftant inhabitants of thofe parts, is not to be doubted.
In many places, by the fides of the hills, where the fnow
lay toa great depth, the dung of the mufk-oxen and deer
was lying in fuch long and continued heaps, as clearly to
' point out that thofe places had been their much-frequented
paths during the preceding Winter. There were alfo many
other fimilar appearances on the hills, and other parts, where
the fnow was entirely thawed away, without any print of
a foot being vifible in the mofs; which is a certain proof
that thefe long ridges of dung muft have been dropped in
the {now as the beafts were pafling and repafling over it
in the Winter. There are likewife fimilar proofs that the
Alpine hare and the partridge do not migrate, but remain
there the whole year: the latter we found in confider-
able flocks among the tufts of willows which grow near
the fea.

Z 2 Tt

17%

1771.
esereeeen seed

July.

172

177\-
beeen
July.

-A JOURNEY TO THE

It is perhaps.not generally known, even to the curious,
therefore may not be unworthy of obfervation, that the
dung of the mufk-ox, though fo large an animal, is not
larger, and at the fame time fo near the fhape and colour
of that of the Alpine hare, that the difference is not
eafily diftinguifhed but by the natives, though in general
the quantity may lead to a difcovery of the animal to
which it belongs.

I did not fee any birds peculiar to thofe parts, except
what the Copper Indians call the ‘‘ Alarm Bird,” or
<¢ Bird of Warning.” In fize and colour it refembles a
Cobadekoock, and is of the owl genus. The name is faid
to be well adapted to its qualities ; for when it perceives
any people, or beaft, it directs its way towards them im-
mediately, and after hovering over them fome time, flies
round them in circles, or goes a-head in the fame di-
rection in which they walk. They repeat their vifits fre-
quently; andif they fee any other moving objects, fly al-
ternately from one party to the other, hover over them
for fome time, and make a loud) {creaming noife, like
the crying of a child. In this manner they are faid fome-
times to follow paffengers a whole day. ‘The Copper In-
dians put great confidence in thofe birds, and fay they are
frequently apprized by them of the approach of ftrangers,
and conducted by them to herds of deer and mufk-oxen ;
which, without their affiftance, in all probability, they —
never could have found.

The

NORTHERN OCEAN.

The Efquimaux feem not to have imbibed the fame
opinion of thofe birds; for if they had, they muft have
been apprized of our approach toward their tents, becaufe
all the time the Indians lay in ambufh, (before they began
the mafiacre,) a large flock of thofe birds were continually
flying about, and hovering alternately over them and the
tents, making a noife fufficient to awaken any man out of

the foundeft fleep.

After a fleep of five or fix hours we once more fet out, and
walked eighteen or nineteen miles to the South South Eaft,
when we arrived at one of the copper mines, which lies,
from the river’s mouth about South South Eaft, diftant
about twenty-nine or thirty miles.

This mine, if it deferve that appellation, is no more
than an entire jumble of rocks and gravel, which has been
rent many. ways by an earthquake. Through thefe ruins
there runs a {mall river; but no part of it, at the time I
was there, was more than knee-deep.

~The Indians who were the occafion of my undertaking
this journey, reprefented this mine to be fo rich and va-
luable, that if a fa@tory:were built at the river, a fhip
might be. ballafted with the oar, inftead of flone; and
that with the fame eafe and difpatch as‘ is done with
{tones at Churchill River. By their account the hilts were
entirely compofed of that metal, all in handy lumps, like
a. heap

a

1771.
ees pees

July.

A (JOURN MYA TOTTE &

a heap of pebbles. But their account differed fo much
from the truth, that I and almoft all my companions ex-
pended near four hours in fearch of fome of this metal,
with fuch poor fuccefs, that among us all, only one piece
of any fize could be found. ‘This, however, was remark-
ably good, and weighed above four pounds *. JI believe the
copper has formerly been in much greater plenty; for in
many places, both on the furface and in the cavities and
crevices of the rocks, the ftones are much tinged with
verdigrife. |

It may not be unworthy the notice of the curious, or
undeferving a place in my Journal, to remark, that the
Indians imagine that every bit of copper they find re-
fembles fome object in nature; but by what I faw of the
large piece, and fome {maller ones which were found by

_ my companions, it. requires a great fhare of invention to

make this out. I found that different people had dif-
ferent ideas on the fubject, for the large piece of copper
above mentioned had not been found long before it had
twenty different names. One faying that it refembled
this animal, and another that it reprefented a particular
part of another; at laft it was generally allowed to re-
femble an Alpine hare couchant : for my part, I muft con-
fefs that I could not fee it had the leaft refemblance to any
thing to which they compared it. It would be endlefs to

* This piece of Copper is now in the poffeffion of the Hudfon’s Bay
Company.

enumerate

NORTHERN OCEAN.

enumerate the different parts of a deer, and other ani-
mals, which the Indians fay the beft pieces of copper re-
femble: it may therefore be fufficient to fay, that the
largeft pieces, with the feweft branches and the leaft drofs,
are the beft for their ufe; as by the help of fire, and two
- ftones, they can beat it out to any fhape they with.

Before Churchill River was fettled by the Hudfon’s Bay

Company, which was not more than fifty years previous to
this journey being undertaken, the Northern Indians had no
other metal but copper among them, except a {mall quan-
tity of iron-work, which a party of them who vifited York
Fort about the year one thoufand feven hundred and thir-
teen, or one thoufand feven hundred and fourteen, pur-
chafed ; and a few pieces of old iron found at Churchill
River, which had undoubtedly been left there by Captain
Monk. ‘This being the cafe, numbers of them from all quar-
ters ufed every Summer to refort to thefe hills in fearch
of copper; of which they made hatchets, ice-chiffels,
bayonets, knives, awls, arrow-heads, &c.* The many

paths

* There isa ftrange tradition among thofe people, that the firft perfon who
difcovered thofe mines was a woman, and that fhe conducted them to the
place for feveral years; but as fhe was the only woman in company, fome of
the men took fuch liberties with her as made her vow revenge on them; and
fhe is faid to have been a great conjurer. Accordingly when the men had
loaded themfelves with copper, and were going to return, fhe refufed to ac-
company them, and faid fhe would fit on the mine till fhe funk into the
ground, and that the copper fhould fink with her. The next year, when the
men went for more copper, they found her funk up to the waift, though ftill

alive,

75

1771.
ease —acccced,

July.

176

1771.
prone omens

July...

paths that had been beaten by the Indians on thefe oc-
cafions, and which are yet, in many places, very perfed,
efpecially on the dry ridges and ‘hills, is furprifing ; in the
vallies-and marfhy grounds, however, they are moitly

grown over with herbage, {0 as not to be difcerned.

The Copper Indians fet a great value on their native
metal even to this day; and prefer it to iron, for almoft
every ufe except that of a hatchet, a knife, and an awl:
for thefe three neceflary implements, copper makes but a
very poor fubftitute. When they exchange copper for
iron-work with our trading Northern Indians, which is
but feldom, the ftandard is an ice-chiffel of copper for
an ice-chiffel of iron, or.an ice-chiffel and a few arrow-
heads of copper, for a half-worn hatchet ; but when they
barter furrs with our Indians, the eftablithed rule is to give
ten times the price for every thing they purchafe that is
given for them at the Company’s Fattory. Thus,
hatchet that is bought at the Factory for one beaver-fkin,
or one cat-fkin, or three ordinary martins’ fkins, is fold to

alive, and the quantity of copper much decreafed; and on their repeating
their vifit the year following, fhe had quite difappeared, and all the principal
part of the mine with her; ee that after that period nothing remained on the
furface but a few fmall pieces, and thofe were fcattered at a confiderable dif-
tance from each other. Before that period they fay the copper lay on the
furface in fuch large heaps, that the Indians had nothing to do but turn it over,
and pick fuch pieces as would beft fuit the different ufes for which they in-
tended ‘it.

5 | thofe |

NiO); R THE RN wWG@ Gra” N.

thofe people at the advanced price of one thoufand per
cent.; they alfo pay in proportion, for knives, and every
other fmaller piece of iron-work. For a {mall brafs kettle
of two pounds, or two pounds anda half weight, they
pay fixty martins, or twenty beaver in other kinds of
furrs *. If the kettles are not bruifed, or ill-ufed in any
other refpect, the Northern traders have the confcience at
times to exact fomething more. It is at this extravagant
price that all the Copper and Dog-ribbed Indians, who
trafic with our yearly traders, fupply themfelyes with
iron-work, &c.

From thofe two tribes our Northern Indians ufed

formerly to purchafe moft of the furrs they brought

to the Company’s Factory ; for their own country pro-
duced very few of thofe articles, and being, at that time,

at war with the Southern Indians, they were prevented

from penetrating far enough backwards to meet with
many animals of the furr kind; fo that deer-fkins, and

* What is meant by Beaver in other kind of furrs, muft be underftood as
follows: For the eafier trading with the Indians, as well as for the more cor-
rectly keeping their accounts, the Hudfon’s Bay Company have made a full-
grown beaver-fkin the ftandard by which they rate all other furrs, according
to their refpective values. ‘Thus in feveral fpecies of furrs, one {kin is valued
at the rate of four beaver fkins; fome at three, and others at two; whereas
thofe of an inferior quality are rated at one; and thofe of ftill lefs value con-
fidered fo inferior to that of a beaver, that from fix to twenty of their fkins
are only valued as equal to one beaver {kin in the way of trade, and do not
fetch one-fourth of the price at the London market. In this manner the term
«* Made Beaver’ is to be underitood.

Aa | fuch

177
i771.
July.

i77i-

July.

| per aANnnuUM.

AN O'U RON Me in Oy air

fuch furrs as they could extort from the Copper and Dog-

ribbed Indians, compofed the whole of their trade ; which,

on an average of many years, and indeed till very lately,
feldom or ever exceeded fix thoufand Made Beaver

¢

At prefent happy it is for them, and greatly to the |
advantage of the Company, that they are in perfect peace,
and live in friendfhip with their Southern neighbours;
The good effect of this harmony is already fo vifible, that
within a few years the trade from that quarter has increafed
many thoufands of Made Beaver annually; fome years
even to the amount of eleven thoufand fkins*. Befide

the

* Since this Journal was written, the Northern Indians, by annually vifiting
their Southern friends, the Athapufcow Indians, have contracted the {mall-pox,
which has carried off nine-tenths of them, and particularly thofe people who
compofed the trade at Churchill Factory. The few furvivors follow the ex-
ample of their Southern neighbours, and all. trade with the Canadians, who
are fettled in the heart of the Athapufcow country: fo that a very few years
has proved my fhort-fightednefs, and that it would have been much more to:
the advantage of the Company, as well as have prevented the depopulation
of the Northern Indian country, if they had ftill remained’ at war with the
Southern tribes, and never attempted to better their fituation. At the fame
time, it is impoffible to fay what increafe of trade might not, in time, have
arifen from a conftant and regular traffic with the different tribes of Copper
and Dog-ribbed Indians. But having been totally negle¢ted for feveral years,
they have now funk into their original barbarifm and extreme indigence; and
a war has enfued between the two tribes, for the fake of the few remnants
of iron-work which was left among them; and the Dog-ribbed Indians were
fo numerous, and fo fuccefsful, as to deftroy almoft the whole race of the
Copper Indians.

While

NORTHERN OCEAN.

‘the advantage arifing to the Company from this increafe,
the poor Northern Indians reap innumerable benefits from
a fine and plentiful country, with the produce of which
they annually load themfelves for trade, without giving the
deaft offence to the proper inhabitants.

Several attempts have been made to induce the Copper
and Dog-ribbed Indians to vifit the Company’s Fort at
Churchill River, and for that purpofe many prefents have
been fent, but.they never were attended with any fuccefs.
And though feveral of the Copper Indians have vifited
Churchill, in the capacity of fervants to the Northern
Indians, and were generally fent back loaded with prefents
for their countrymen, yet the Northern Indians always
plundered them of the whole foon after they left the
Fort. This kind of treatment, added to the many incon-
veniencies that attend fo long a journey, are great obftacles
in their way; otherwife it would be as poflible for them
to bring their own goods to market, as for the Northern In-
dians to go fo far to purchafe them on their own account,

While I was writing this Note, I was informed by fome Northern Indians,
that the few which remain of the Copper tribe have found their way to one of
the Canadian houfes in the Athapufcow Indians country, where they get fupplied
with every thing at lefs, or about half the price they were formerly obliged to
give; fo that the few furviving Northern Indians, as well as the Hudfon’s Bay
Company, have now loft every fhadow of any future trade from that quarter,
unlefs the Company will eftablifh a fettlement with the Athapufcow country,
and underfell the Canadians. |

Aa 2 and

179

1771.
(een od

July.

At TOD R NEW ITD 1 Oe

and have the fame diftance to bring them as the firft pro-
prietors would have had. But it is a political {cheme of
our Northern traders to prevent fuch an intercourfe, as it
would greatly leffen their confequence and emolument.

Superftition, indeed, will, in all probability, be a lafting

barrier againft thofe people ever having a fettled communi-
cation with our Factory ; as few of them chufe to travel
in countries fo remote from their own, under a pretence
that the change of air and provifions (though exaétly the
fame to which they are accuftomed) are highly prejudicial
to their health; and that not one out of three of thofe
who have undertaken the journey, have ever lived to
return. The firft of thefe reafons is evidently no more
than grofs fuperftition ; and though the latter is but too
true, it has always been owing to the treachery and cruelty
of the Northern Indians, who took them under their pro-
tection.

It is but a fee years pate that Captain Keelfhies, who
is frequently mentioned in this Journal, took twelve of
thefe people under his charge, all heavy laden with the
moft valuable furrs; and long before they arrived at the
Fort, he and the reft of his crew had got all the furrs
from them, in payment for provifions for their fupport,
and obliged them to carry the furrs on their account.

On their arrival at Prince of Wales’s Fort, Keelfhies

laid claim to great merit for having brought thofe ftrangers,
fo

NORTHERN (OCE A M.

181

fo richly laden, to the Factory, and affured the Governor 1771.

that he might, in future, expect a great increafe in trade
from that quarter, through his intereft and affiduity. One
of the ftrangers was dubbed with the name of Captain,
and treated accordingly, while at the Fort; that is, he
was dreffed out in the beft manner; and at his departure,
both himfelf and all his countrymen were loaded with
prefents, in hopes that they would not only repeat the
vifit themfelves, but by difplaying fo much generofity,

many of their countrymen would be induced to accom-

pany them.

There feems to be great propriety in the condudt of the
Governor * on this occafion ; but however well-intended,
it had quite the contrary effe@, for Keelfhies and the reft

of his execrable gang, not content with fharing all the

furrs thofe poor people had carried to the Fort, deter-
mined to get alfo all the European goods that had been

given to them by the Governor. As neither Keelthies

nor any of his gang had the courage to kill the Copper
Indians, they concerted a deep-laid fcheme for their de-

ftruction; which was to leave them on an ifland. With

this view, when they got to the propofed {pot, the North-
ern Indians took care to have all the baggage belonging to

the Copper Indians ferried acrofs to the main, and having,

{tripped them of fuch parts of their clothing as they

* Mr. Mofes Norton,
thought

July.

A JOURNEY TO THE

thought worthy their notice, went off with all the canoes,
leaving them all behind on the ifland, where they perifhed

_ for want. When I was on my journey to the Fort in June one

thoufand feven hundred and feventy-two, I faw the bones
of thofe poor people, and had the foregoing account from
my guide Matonabbee; but it was not made known to the
Governor for fome years afterward, for fear of prejudicing
him againft Keelfhies.

A fimilar circumftance had nearly happened to a Copper 2

Indian who accompanied me to the Fort in one thoufand
-feven hundred and feventy-two: after we were all ferried

acrofs Seal River, and the poor man’s bundle of furrs on
the South-fide, he was left alone on the oppofite thore ;
and: no one except Matonabbee would go over for him.
The wind at that time blew fo hard, that Matonabbee
{tripped himfelf quite naked, to be ready for fwimming
in cafe the canoe fhould overfet ; but he foon brought the
Copper Indian fafe over, to che no {mall mortification of
the wretch who had the charge of him, and who would
gladly have poffeffed the bundle of furrs at the expence

of the poor man’s life.

When the Northern Indians returned from the Faétory
that year, the above Copper Indian put himfelf under the
protection of Matonabbee, who accompanied him as far
North as the latitude 64°, where they faw fome Copper
Indians, among whom was the young man’s father, into

whofe

NORTHERN OCEAN.

whofe hands Matonabbee delivered him in good health,
with all his goods fafe, and in good order.

Soon after we had left the Copper-mine, there came on
a thick fog with rain, and at intervals heavy fhowers of
fnow. This kind of weather continued for fome days;
and at times it was fo thick, that we were obliged to
{top for feveral hours together, as we were unable to
fee our way, and the road was remanably rocky and
intricate.

At three o’clock in the morning of the twenty-fecond,
Matonabbee’s brother and one of the Copper Indians,
who had been firft difpatched a-head from Congecatha-
whachaga, overtook us. During their abfence they had
not difcovered any Indians who could have been ferviceable

to my expedition. They had, however, been at the Cop-.

per River, and feeing fome marks fet up there to dire&
them to return, they had made the beft of their way, and

had not flept from the time they left the river till they

joined us, though the diftance was not lefs than a hundred
miles. When they arrived we were afleep, but we foon

awakened, and began to proceed on our journey. That

day we walked forty-two miles; and in our way pafled.

Buffalo Lake: at night, we put up about the middle of

the Stony Mountains. The weather was exceflively hot
and fultry. 7

The

183

1771.
ere peed

July.

22d.-

184
Wit.

July -
23d,

24th.

ALL LOW BN BM TO! smsEiE

On the twenty-third, the weather continued much. the
fame as on the preceding day. Early in the morning we
fet out, and walked forty-five miles the firft day, during
which the Indians killed feveral fine fat buck deer.

_ About one o’clock in the morning of the twenty-fourth,
we ftopped and took a little refrefhment, as we had alfo
done about noon the preceding day ; but the Indians had
been fo long from their wives and families, that they pro-
mifed not to fleep till they faw them, efpecially as we were
then in fight of the hills of Congecathawhachaga, where
we had left the laft of them. After refting about an
hour, we proceeded on our way, and at fix in the morning
arrived at Congecathawhachaga; when, to our great difap-
pointment, we found that all our women had got fet acrofs
the river before the Copper Indians left that part; fo that
when we arrived, not an Indian was to be found, except
an old man and his family, who had arrived in our ab-
fence, and was waiting at the crofling-place with fome
furrs for Matonabbee, who was fo nearly related to the
old man as to be his fon-in-law, having one of his daughters
for a wife. The old man had another with him, who
was alfo offered to the great man, but not accepted.

Our ftay at this place may be faid to have been of very
fhort duration; for on feeing a large {moke tothe Southward,

we immediately crofied the river, and walked towards it,
6 when

WORT? H ER NigOLG LE A N.

when we found that the women had indeed been there
fome days before, but were gone; and at their departure
had fet the mofs on fire, which was then burning, and
occafioned the fmoke we had feen. By this time the
afternoon was far advanced; we purfued, however, our
courfe in the dire@tion which the women took, for
their track we could eafily difcover in the mofs. We
had not gone far, before we faw another fmoke at a

great diftance, for which we fhaped our courfe; and, |

notwithftanding we redoubled our pace, it was eleven

o'clock at night before we reached it; when, to our

great mortification, we found it to be the place where
the women had flept the night before; having in the
morning, at their departure, fet fire to the mofs which
was then burning.

The Indians, finding that their wives were fo near as
to be within one of their ordinary day’s walk, which fel-
dom exceeded ten or twelve miles, determined not to
reft till they had joined them. Accordingly we purfued
our courfe, and about two o’clock in the morning of the
the twenty-fifth, came up with fome of the women, who

had then pitched their tents by the fide of Cogead Lake.

From our leaving the Copper-mine River to this time we
had travelled fo hard, and taken fo little reft by the way,
that my feet and legs had fwelled confiderably, and I had
become quite ftiff at the ankles. In this fituation I had

Bb fo

25th.

186

1771.
awe, emcee
July.

A (JOURN BY! FOeTHE

fo little power to direct my feet when walking, that I
frequently knocked them againft the ftones with fuch force,
as not only to jar and diforder them, but my legs alfo;
and the nails of my toes were bruifed to fuch a degree,
that feveral of them feftered and dropped off. To add
to this mifhap, the fkin was entirely chafed off from the
tops of both my feet, and between every toe; fo that the
fand and gravel, which I could by no means exclude,
irritated the raw parts fo much, that for a whole day before
we arrived at the women’s tents, I left the print of my feet
in blood almoft at every ftep I took. Several of the In-
dians began to complain that their feet alfo were fore ; but,
on examination, not one of them was the twentieth part in

fo bad a ftate as mine. |

This being the firft time I had been in fuch a fituation,
or feen any body foot-foundered, I was much alarmed,
and under great apprehenfions for the confequences.
Though I was but little fatigued in body, yet the excru-
ciating pain I fuffered when walking, had fuch an effeé
on my fpirits, that if the Indians had continued to travel
two or three days longer at that unmerciful rate, I muft
unavoidably have been left behind; for my feet were in
many places quite honey-combed, by the dirt and gravel
eating into the raw flefh.

As foon as we arrived.at the women’s tents, the
firft thing I did, was to wafh and clean my feet in
warm

NORTHERN OGE AN.

watm water; then I bathed the fwelled parts with fpirits
of wine, on drefled thofe that were raw with Turner’s
cerate; foon after which I betook myfelf to reft. As we
did not move on the following day, I perceived that
the {welling abated, and the raw parts of my feet were
not quite fo much inflamed. ‘This change for the better
gave me the ftrongeft affurance that reft was the principal
thing wanted to effect a fpeedy and — cure of my
painful, though in | reality very fimple diforder, (foot-found-
ering,) which I had before confidered to be an affair of the
ereateft confequence.

Reft, however, though effential to my fpeedy recovery,
could not at this time be procured; for as the Indians were
defirous of joining the remainder of their wives and families
as foon as poflible, they would not ftop even a fingle day;
fo that on the twenty-feventh we again began to move;
and though they moved at the rate of eight or nine miles
a day, it was with the utmoft difficulty that I could follow
them. Indeed the weather proved remarkably fine and
pleafant, and the ground was in gerferal pretty dry, and free
from ftenes; which contributed greatly to my eafe in
walking, and enabled me to keep up with the natives.

On the thirty-firft of July, we arrived at the place
where the wives and families of my companions had been
ordered to wait our return from the Copper-mine River.

Here we found feveral tents of Indians; but thofe be-
Bb 2 longing

27th,

188

1771.

~ July.

Auguft
rik.

sth.

A JOURNEM MO Tas

longing to Matonabbee, and fome others of my crew, had
not arrived. We faw, however, a large fmoke to the
Eaftward, which we fuppofed had been made by them,
as no other Indians were expected from that quarter.
Accordingly, the next morning, Matonabbee fent fome
of his young men in queft of them, and on the fifth,
they all joined us; when, contrary to expectation, a great
number of other Indians were with them; in all, to the
amount of more than forty tents. Among hole In-
dians, was the man who Matonabbee ftabbed when we
were at Clowey. With the greateft fubmiflion, he led
his wife to Matonabbee’s tent, fet her down by his fide,
and retired, without faying a word. Matonabbee took no
notice of her, though fhe was bathed in tears ; and by de-

* grees, after reclining herfelf on her elbow for fome time,

the lay down, and, fobbing, faid, fee’d dinne, feed dinne!
which is, My hufband, my hufband! On which Mato-_
nabbee told her, that if fhe had refpected him as fuch,
fhe would not have run away from him; and that fhe was
at liberty to go where fhe pleafed. On which fhe got up,
with feeming reluctance, though moft affuredly with a
light heart, and returned to her former hufband’s tent.

CHAP.

WO R'TH ELAR N (O/C EAN,

Cora PF. ee

Remarks from the Time the Women joined us till our
Arrival at the Athapufcow Lake.

Several of the Indians fick—Method ufed by the conjurers to relieve
one man, who recovers.—Matonabbee and his crew proceed to the
South Weft.—Moft of the other Indians feparate, and go their re-
Spettive ways.—Pafs by White Stone Lake-—Many deer killed merely
for their fins.—Remarks thereon, and on the deer, refpecting feafons
and places.— Arrive at Point Lake.—One of the Indian’s wives being
fitch, is left behind to perifo above-ground.—Weather very bad, but deer
plenty.—Stay fome time at Point Lake to dry meat, &c.—Winter fet
in.—Superfiitious cuftoms obferved by my companions, after they had
killed the Efquimaux at Copper River-—A violent gale of wind over-

fets my tent and breaks my quadrant.—Some Copper and Dog-ribbed In-
dians join us.—Indians propofe to go to the Athapufcow Country to kill
moofe.—Leave Point Lake, and arrive at the wood’s edge.— Arrive at
Anawd Lake.—Tranfaéctions there.—Remarkable inftance of a man

being cured of the palfey by the comurers.—Leave Anawd Lake-—Ar- |

rive at the great Athapufcow Lake.

GEE RAL of the Indians being very ill, the conjurers,

who are always the doctors, and pretend to perform

ereat cures, began to try their fkill to effeé their re-
covery. Here it is neceflary to remark, that they ufe no

medicine either for internal or external complaints, but

_ perform all their cures by charms. In ordinary cafes,
fucking the part affected, blowing, and ‘inging to it;
haugh-

189

I 771-6
\
Augutt.

A JOURNEY TO THE

haughing, fpitting, and at the fame time uttering a heap
of unintelligible jargon, compofé the whole procefs of
the cure. For fome inward complaints; fuch as, griping
in the inteftines, difficulty of making water, &c, it

‘is very common to fee thofe jugglers blowing into the

anus, or into the parts adjacent, till their eyes are almoft
ftarting out of their heads: and this operation is per-
formed indifferently on all, without regard either to age
or fex. The accumulation of fo large a quantity of
wind is at times apt to occafion fome extraordinary emo-
tions, which are not eafily fuppreffed by a fick perfon ;
and as there is no vent for it but by the channel through
which it was conveyed thither, it fometimes occafions an

_ odd fcene between the doétor and his patient ; which I once

wantonly called an engagement, but for which I was af-
terward exceedingly forry, as it highly offended feveral of
the Indians ; particularly the juggler and the fick perfon,
both of whom were men I much efteemed, and, except
in that moment of levity, it had ever been no lefs my
inclination than my intereft to fhew them every refpect
that my fituation would admit.

I have often admired the great pains thefe jugglers take to
deceive their credulous countrymen, while at the fame time
they are indefatigably induftrious and perfevering in their
efforts to relieve them. Being naturally not very delicate,
they frequently continue their windy procefs fo long, that I
have more than once feen the doctor quit his patient with his
face and breaft in a very difagreeable condition. However

3 laugh-

WORTHERN (OCEAN.

laughable this may appear to an European, cuftom makes
it very indecent, in their opinion, to turn any thing of the
kind to ridicule.

When a friend for whom they have a particular regard

is, as they fuppofe, dangeroufly ill, befide the above ©

methods, they have recourfe to ies very extraordinary
piece of fuperftition; which is no lefs than than that of
pretending to {wallow hatchets, ice-chiffels, broad bayo-
nets, knives, and the like; out of a favicelitions notion
that undertaking fuch defperate feats will have fome in-
fluence in appeafing death, and procure a ees for their
patient.

On fuch extraordinary occafions a conjuring-houfe is
erected, by driving the ends of four long {mall fticks, or
poles, into the ground at right angles, fo as to form a
{quare of four, five, fix, or feven feet, as may be required.
The tops of the poles are tied together, and all is clofe
covered with a tent-cloth or other fkin, exactly in the
fhape of a {mall fquare tent, except that there is no va-
cancy left at the top to admit the light. In the middle
of this houfe, or tent, the patient is laid, and is foon fol-
lowed by the conjurer, or conjurers. Sometimes five
or fix of them give their joint-afliftance ; but before they
enter, they flrip themfelves quite naked, and as foon as
they get into the houfe, the door being well clofed, they
kneel round the fick perfon or perfons, and begin to fuck

and

IQ!

1771.
Se nae,

Auguft.

A Vi URN EP aro ae

and blow at the parts affected, and then ina very fhort fpace
of time fing and talk as if converfing with familiar {pirits,
which they fay appear to them in the fhape of different
beafts and birds of prey. When they have had fufficient
conference with thofe neceflary agents, or fhadows, as
they term them, they afk for the hatchet, bayonet, or the
like, which is always prepared by another perfon, with
a long firing faftened to it by the haft, for the conveni-
ence of hauling it up again after they have fwallowed it ;
for they very wifely admit this to be a very neceflary pre-
caution, as hard and compact bodies, fuch as iron and
fteel, would be very difficult to digeft, even by the men
who are enabled to fwallow them. Befides, as thofe tools
are in themfelves very ufeful, and not always to be pro- —
cured, it would be very ungenerous in the conjurers to
digeft them, when it is known that barely fwallowing
them and hauling them up again is fully fufficient to an-
fwer every purpofe that is expected from them.

At the time when the forty and odd tents of Indians
joined us, one man was fo dangeroufly ill, that it was
thought neceffary the conjurers fhould ufe fome of thofe
wonderful experiments for his recovery; one of them
therefore immediately confented to {wallow a_ broad
bayonet. Accordingly, a conjuring-houfe was ere@ed in
the manner above defcribed, into which the patient was
conveyed, and he was foon followed by the conjurer, who,
after a long preparatory difcourfe, and the neceflary con-

ference

WOR HPHER NW@akaA N

ference with his familiar fpirits, or fhadows, as they call
them, advanced to the door and afked for the bayonet,
which was then ready prepared, by having a ftring faftened
to it, and a fhort piece of wood tied to the other end of
the ftring, to prevent him from {wallowing it. I could
not help obferving that the length of the bit of wood was
not more than the breadth of the bayonet: however, as
it anfwered the intended purpofe, it did equally well as if
it had been as long as a handfpike.

Though I am not fo credulous as to believe that the
conjurer abfolutely fwallowed the bayonet, yet I muft ac-
knowledge that in the twinkling of an eye he conveyed it
to—God knows where; and the {mall piece of wood, or
one exactly like it, was confined clofe to his teeth. He
then paraded backward and forward before the conjuring~
houfe for a fhort time, when he feigned to be greatly dif-
ordered in his ftomach and bowels; and, after making many
wry faces, and groaning moft hideoufly, he put his bodyinto
feveral diftorted attitudes, very fuitable to the occafion. He
_ then returned to the door of the conjuring-houfe, and after
making many ftrong efforts to vomit, by the help of the
ftring he at length, and after tugging at it fome time, pro-
duced the bayonet, which apparently he hauled out of his
mouth, to the no {mall furprize of all prefent. He then
looked round with an air of exultation, and ftrutted into
the conjuring-houfe, where he renewed his incantations,
and continued them without intermiffion twenty-four hours.

Cec Though

E93
Wake

Auguft
6th.

194

1771.
Reson seemed

Augutft.

oth.

yoth—25th.

ALO U RN Bey oro! ares

T hough I was not clofe to his elbow when he performed

the above feat, yet I thought myfelf near enough (and I
can affure my readers I was all attention) to have detected
him. Indeed I muft confefs that it appeared to me to be
a very nice piece of deception, Heats as it was per-
ne by a man quite naked.

Not long after this flight-of-hand work was over, fome
of the Indians afked me what I thought of it; to which
I anfwered, that I was too far off to {fee it fo plain as I
could wifh ; which indeed was no more than the ftricteft
truth, becaufe I was not near enough to detec the decep-
tion. The fick man, however, foon recovered; and ina
few days afterwards we left that place and proceeded to
the South Weft.

On the ninth of Auguft, we once more purfued our
journey, and continued our courfe in the South Weft quar-
ter, generally walking about feven or eight miles a day.
All the Indians, however, who had been in our company,
except twelve tents, ftruck off different ways. As to
myfelf, having had feveral days reft, my feet were com-

pletely healed, though the fkin remained very tender for
fome time.

From the nineteenth to the twenty-fifth, we walked by
the fide of Thaye-chuck-gyed Whoie, or Large White-
ftone Lake, which is about forty miles long from the North

Eaft

NOR THER NYOC EE A N,

Eaft to the South Weft, but of very unequal breadth. A
river from the North Weft fide of this lake is faid to run
in a ferpentine manner a long way to the Weftward; and
then tending to the Northward, compofes the main branch
of the Copper-mine River, as has been already mentioned ;
which may or may not be true. It is certain, however,
that there are many rivulets which empty themfelves into
this lake from the South Eaft; but as they are all {mall
ftreams, they may probably be no more than what is fuf-
ficient to fupply the conftant decreafe occafioned by the
exhalations, which, during the fhort Summer, fo high a
Northern latitude always affords.

Deer were very plentiful the whole way; the Indians

killed great numbers of them daily, merely for the fake of —

their fkins ; and at this time of the year their pelts are in

good feafon, and the hair of a proper length for clothing.

The great deftruction which is made of the deer in thofe
parts at this feafon of the year only, is almoft incredible; and
as they are never known to have more than one young one at
atime, it is wonderful they do not become {carce: but fo
far is this from being the cafe, that the oldeft Northern In-
dian in all their tribe will affirm that the deer are as plen-
tiful now as they ever have been; and though they are
remarkably fcarce fome years near Churchill river, yet it
is faid, and with great probability of truth, that they are

) Cc ay more

405

1771.
ere rec

Augutt.

196

E77 ie
hao —mened
Auguft.

AY, OURNEW ST oO MRE

more plentiful in other parts of the country than they were
formerly. The fcarcity or abundance of thefe animals in.
different places at the fame feafon is caufed, in a great
meafure, by the winds which prevail for fome time before ;
for the deer are fuppofed by the natives to walk always in
the dire@tion from which the wind blows, except when
they migrate from Eaft to Weft, or from Weft to Eaft, in
fearch of the oppofite fex, for the purpofe of Propagating
their {pecies.

It requires the prime part bE the fkins of from eight to

ten deer to'make a complete fuit of warm clothing for a

grown perfon during the Winter ; all of which fhould, if
poffible, be killed in the month of Auguft, or early in
September; for after that time the hair is too long, and
at the fame time fo loofe in the pelt, that it will drop off
with the flighteft injury.

Befide thefe fkins, which muft be in the hair, each per-
fon requires feveral others to be dreffed into leather, for
ftockings and fhoes, and light Summer clothing; feveral
more are alfo wanted in a parchment ftate, to make c/ewla
as they call it, or thongs to make netting for their fnow-
fhoes, {nares for deer, fewing for their fledges, and, in
faét, for every other ufe where ftrings or lines of any kind
are required: fo that each perfon, on an average, expends,
in the courfe of a year, upwards of twenty deer fkins in

clothing

NORTHERN. “-QCEAN,

clothing and other domeftic ufes, ~exclufive of tent cloths,
bags, and many other things which it is impoflible to re-
member, and unneceffary to enumerate.

All fkins for the above-mentioned purpofes are, .if pof-

fible, procured between the beginning of Auguft and the

middle of October; for when the rutting feafon is over,
and the Winter fets in, the deer-fkins are not only
very thin, but in general full of worms and warbles ;
which render them of little ufe, unlefs it be to cut into
fine thongs, of which they make fifhing-nets, and nets
for the heels and toes of their {now-fhoes. Indeed the
chief ufe that is made of them in Winter is for the
purpofe of food; and really when the hair is properly
taken off, and all the warbles are {queezed out, if they are
well-boiled, they are far from being difagreeable. The
Indians, however, never could perfuade me to eat the
warbles, of which fome of them are remarkably fond,
particularly the children. They are always eaten raw
and alive, outof the fkin; and are faid, by thofe who
like them, to be as fine as goofeberries. But the very
idea of eating fuch things, exclufive of their appearance,
(many of them being as large as the firft joint of the
little finger,) was quite fufficient to give me an un-
alterable difguft to fuch a repaft; and when I acknow-
ledge that the warbles out of the deers backs, and the do-
meftic lice, were the only two things I ever faw my com-

panions

197

1771.
fea

Auguft.

198

¥773-
eae |
Augutt.

AAPOR MIY) (TOT BE
panions eat, of which I could not, or did not, partake, I

truft I fhall not be reckoned over-delicate in my aPpcetee

The month of Oétober is the rutting cee with the
deer in thofe parts, and after the time of their courtfhip

is over, the bucks feparate from the does; the former pro-

ceed to the Weftward, to take fhelter in he woods duting
the Winter, and the latter keep out in the barren ground .
the whole year. This, though a general rule, is not with-
out fome exceptions; for I have frequently feen many does
in the woods, though they bore no proportion to the
number of bucks. This rule, therefore, only flands good
refpecting the deer to the North of Churchill River ; for
the deer to the Southward live promifcuoufly among the
woods, as well as in the plains, and along the banks of
rivers, lakes, &c. the whole year.

The old buck’s horns are very large, with many
branches, and always drop off in the month of Novem-
ber, which is about the time they begin to, approach the
woods. This is undoubtedly wifely ordered by Provi-
dence, the better to enable them to efcape from their ene-
mies through the woods; otherwife they would become
an eafy prey to wolves and other beafts, and be liable to
get entangled among the trees, even in ranging about in
fearch of food. The fame opinion may probably be ad-
mitted of the Southern deer, which always refide among

the

NORTHERN OGHAN.

the woods; but the Northern deer, though by far the
fmalleft in this country, have much the largeft horns, and
the branches are fo long, and at the fame time fpread fo
wide, as to make them more liable to be entangled among
the under-woods, than any other fpecies of deer that I
have noticed. The young bucks in thofe parts do not
fhed their horns fo foon as the old ones: I have frequently.
feen them killed at or near Chriftmas, and could difcover
no appearance of their horns being loofe. The does do
not fhed their horns till the Summer; fo that when the
buck’s horns are ready to drop off, the horns of the does
are all hairy, and fcarcely come to their full growth.

The deer in thofe parts are generally in motion from
Eaft to Weft, or from Weft to Eaft, according to the
feafon, or the prevailing winds; and that is the principal
reafon why the Northern Indians are always fhifting their

lation. From November till May, the bucks continue

to the Weftward, among the woods, when their horns be-
gin to f{prout; after which they proceed on to the Eaft-.
ward, to the barren grounds; and the does that have been
on the barren ground all the Winter, are taught by inftin@é
to advance to the Weftward to meet them, in order to.
propagate their f{pecies. Immediately after the rutting
feafon is over, they feparate, as hath been mentioned above.
The old vulgar faying, fo generally received among the
lower clafs of people in England, concerning the bucks
fhedding their yards, or more properly the glands of the

penis,,

199

WAL
Auguft.

2098

1771.
mm ame

Auguft.

A AJ OU. RN BY wtO) TAH.

penis, yearly, whether it be true in England or not, is cer-
tainly not true in any of the countries bordering on Hud-
fon’s Bay. A long refidence among the Indians has enabled
me to confirm this affertion with great confidence, as I
have feen deer killed every day throughout the year; and

‘when I have mentioned this circumftance to the Indians,

either Northern or Southern, they always affured me that
they never obferved any fuch fymptoms. With equal truth
I can affert, and that from ocular demonftration, that the
animal which is called the Alpine Hare in Hudfon’s Bay,
actually undergoes fomething fimilar to that which is vul-
garly afcribed to the Englith deer. I have feen and handled
feveral of them, who had been killed juft after they had
coupled in the Spring, with the pemifes hanging out, dried
up, and fhrivelled, like the navel-ftring of young animals ;
and on examination I always found a paflage through them
for the urine to pafs. I have thought proper to give this re-
mark a place in my Journal, becaufe, in all probability,
it is not generally known, even to thofe gentlemen who
have made natural hiftory their chief ftudy ; and if their
refearches are of any real utility to mankind, it is furely to
be regretted that Providence fhould have placed the greateft
part of them too remote from want to be obliged to travel
for ocular proofs of what they affert in their publica-
tions; they are therefore wifely content to ftay at home,
and enjoy the bleflings with which they are endowed,
refting fatisfied to colle& fuch information for their own
amufement, and the gratification of the public, as thofe

2 | who

NORTHERN OCEAN.

who are neceflitated to be travellers are able or willing to
givethem. It is true, and I am forry it is fo, that I come
under the latter defcription ; but hope I have not, or fhall
‘not, inthe courfe of this Journal, advance any thing that
will not ftand the teft of experiment, and the fkill of the
moft competent judges.

After leaving White Stone Lake, we continued our
courfe in the South Weft quarter, feldom walking more

than twelve miles a day, and frequently not half that

diftance.

- On the third of September, we arrived at a {mall river
belonging to Point Lake, but the weather at this time
proved fo boifterous, and there was fo much rain, fnow,
and froft, alternately, that we were obliged to wait feveral
days before we could crofs it in our canoes ; and the water
was too deep, and the current too rapid, to attempt ford-
ing it. During this interruption, however, our time was
not entirely loft, as deer were fo plentiful that the Indians
killed numbers of them, as well for the fake of their fkins,
as for their fefh, which was at prefent in excellent order,
and the fkins in proper feafon for the fundry ufes for which
they are deftined.

In the afternoon of the feventh, the weather became
fine and moderate, when we all were ferried acrofs the
river; and the next morning fhaped our courfe to the

Dd North

September
3d.

“th.

Sth. ©

202

1771.
Cn eed

September.

A JOUR Nyt 0 frie
North Weft, by the fide of Point-Lake. After three days

journey, which only confifted of about eighteen miles,
we came to a few {mall fcrubby woods, which were the
firft that we had feen from the twenty-fifth of May, ex-
cept thofe we had perceived at the Copper-mine River.

One of the Indian’s wives, who for fome time had
been in a confumption, had for a few days paft bccome fo
weak as to be incapable of travelling, which, among thofe
people, is the moft deplorable ftate to which a human be-
ing can poflibly be brought. Whether fhe had been given
over by the doétors, or that it was for want of friends
among them, I cannot tell, but certain it is, that no ex-
pedients were taken for her recovery; fo that, without
much ceremony, fhe was left unaflifted, to perifh above-
ground. . » |

Though this was the firft inftance of the kind I had
feen, it is the common, and indeed the conftant praétice
of thofe Indians ; for when a grown perfon is fo ill, efpe-
cially in the Summer, as not to be able to walk, and
too heavy to be carried, they fay it is better to leave one
who is paft recovery, than for the whole family to fit
down by them and ftarve to death; well knowing that
they cannot be of any fervice to the affli@ed. On thofe
occafions, therefore, the friends or relations of the fick
generally leave them fome victuals and water; and, if the
fituation of the place will afford it, a little fring. When

thofe

~

NORTHERN OCEAN.

thofe articles are provided, the perfon to be left is ac-
-quainted with the road which the others intend to go;
and then, after covering them well up with deer fkins,
&c. they take their leave, and walk away crying.

Sometimes perfons thus left, recover ; and come up with
their friends, or wander about till they meet with other
Indians, whom they accompany till they again join
their relations. Inftances of this kind are feldom known.
The poor woman above mentioned, however, came up
with us three feveral times, after having been left in
the manner defcribed. At length, poor creature! fhe
dropt behind, and no one attempted to go back in fearch
of her.

A cuftom apparently fo unnatural is perhaps not to be
found among any other of the human race: if properly
confidered, however, it may with juftice be afcribed to
neceffity and felf-prefervation, rather than to the want of
humanity and focial feeling, which ought to be the cha-
racteriftic of men, as the nobleft part of the creation.
Neceflity, added to national cuftom, contributes prin-

203

1771.
hikiads elke

September.

cipally to make {cenes of this kind lefs {hocking to thofe |

people, than they muft appear to the more civilized part
of mankind.

During the early part of September, the weather was in
general cold, with much fleet and fnow; which feemed to
Dd 2 promife

204
1771.

A>} O URN EP rio Tae

promife that the Winter would fet in early. Deer at this

September. time being very plentiful, and the few woods we met with

28th.

30th,

affording tent-poles and firing, the Indians propofed to
remain where we were fome time, in order to drefs kins,
and provide our Winter clothing ; alfo to make {now-fhoes
and temporary fledges, as well as to prepare a large quan-
tity of dried meat and fat to carry with us; for by the
accounts of the Indians, they have always experienced a
great {carcity of deer, and every other kind of game, in
the direction they propofed we fhould go when we left
Point Lake. |

Toward the middle of the month, the weather became
quite mild and open, and continued fo till the end of it;
but there was fo much conftant and inceffant rain, that it
rotted moft of our tents. On the twenty-cighth, how-
ever, the wind fettled in the North Weft quarter, when
the weather grew fo cold, that by the thirtieth all the
ponds, lakes, and other ftanding waters, were frozen over
fo hard, that we were enabled to crofs them onthe ice
without danger. |

Among the various fuperftitious cuftoms of thofe people,
it is worth remarking, and ought to have been mentioned
in its proper place, that immediately after my companions
had killed the Efquimaux at the Copper River, they con-
fidered themfelves in a ftate of uncleannefs, which induced
them to practife fome very curious and unufual ceremonies.

10 In

WOR GH ER N OrcecEA N,

In the firft place, all who were abfolutely concerned in
the murder were prohibited from cooking any kind of
victuals, either for themfelves or others. As luckily- there
were two in company who had not fhed blood, they were
employed always as cooks till we joined the women. This
circumf{tance was exceedingly favourable on my fide; for
had there been no perfons of the above defcription in
company, that tafk, I was told, would have fallen on me ;
which would have been no lefs fatiguing and troublefome,
than humiliating and vexatious.

When the viduals were cooked, all the murderers

took a kind of red earth, or oker, and painted all the
{pace between the nofe and chin, as well as the. -greater
part of their checks, almoft to the ears, before they would
tafte a bit, and would not drink out of any other difh,
or {moke out of any other pipe, but their own ; and none ue
the others feemed willing to drink or {moke out of theirs.

We had no fooner joined the women, at our return from
the expedition, than there feemed tobe an univerfal fpirit
of emulation among them, vying who fhould firft make a
fait of ornaments for their hufbands, which confifted of
bracelets for the wrifts, and a band for the forehead, com-
pofed of porcupine quils and moofe-hair, curioufly oust
on Ieacher,

The cuftom of painting the mouth and part of the
cheeks before each meal, and drinking and {moking out

of

205

1771

|
September.

206

1771.

September.

October.
6th.

A JOURNEY ‘TO THE

of their own utenfils, was ftriétly and invariably obferved,
till the Winter began to fet in; and during the whole of
that time they would never kifs any of their wives or
children. They refrained alfo from eating many parts of
the deer and other animals, ‘particularly the head, entrails,
and blood; and during their uncleannefs, their victuals
were never fodden in water, but dried in the fun, eaten
quite raw, or broiled, when a fire fit for the purpofe ne
be procured. | |

When the time arrived that was to put an end to thefe
ceremonies, the men, without a female being prefent, made
a fire at fome diftance from the tents, intowhich they threw
all their ornaments, pipe-ftems, and difhes, which were
foon confumed to afhes ; after which a feaft was prepared,
confifting of fuch articles as they had long been prohibited -
from eating ; and when all was over, each man was at
libery to eat, drink, and {moke as he pleafed; and alfo
to kifs his wives and children at difcretion, which they
feemed to do with more raptures than I had ever known
them do it either before or fince.

Oober came in very roughly, attended with heavy
falls of fnow, and much drift. On the fixth at night, a
heavy gale of wind from the North Weft put us in great
diforder; for though the few woods we paffed had furnifhed
us with tent-poles and fewel, yet they did not afford us
the Jeaft fhelter whatever. The wind blew with fuch

violence,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

violence, that in f{pite of all our endeavours, it overfet
feveral of the tents, and mine, among the reft, fhared the
difafter, which I cannot fufficiently lament, as the but-
ends of the weather tent-poles fell on the quadrant,
and though it was in a ftrong wain{cot cafe, two of the

bubbles, the index, and feveral other parts were broken,

which rendered it entirely ufelefs. This being the cafe,
I did not think it worth carriage, but broke it to pieces,
and gave the brafs-work to the Indians, who cut it into
{mall lumps, and made ufe of it inftead of ball.

On the twenty-third of OGober, feveral Copper and
a few dog-ribbed Indians came to our tents laden with
furrs, which they fold to fome of my crew for fuch iron-
work as they had to give in exchange. This vifit, I af-
terwards found, was by appointment of the Copper In-
dians whom we had feen at Congecathawhachaga, and
who, in their way to us, had met the Dog-ribbed Indians,
who were alfo glad of fo favourable an opportunity of
purchafing fome of thofe valuable articles, though at a
very extravagant price: fof one of the Indians in my com-
pany, though not properly of my party, got no lefs than
forty beaver fkins, and fixty martins, for one piece of
iron which he had ftole when he was laft at the Fort *.
: One
* The piece of iron above mentioned was the coulter of a new-fathioned

plough, invented by Captain John Fowler, late Governor at Churchill River,
with which he hada large piece of ground ploughed, and afterwards fowed

with

207

179s
Oiober.

23d.

208

1771.

Otober.

A FO URN BY) TO TT me

One of thofe ftrangers had about forty beaver fkins,
with which he intended to pay Matonabbee an old debt ;
but one of the other Indians feized the whole, notwith-
ftanding he knew it to be in faét Matonabbee’s property.
This treatment, together with many other infults, which
he had received during my abode with him, made him re-
new his old refolution of leaving his own country, and
going to refide with the Athapufcow Indians.

As the moft interefting part of my journey was now
over, I did not think it neceflary to interfere in his private
affairs; and therefore did not endeavour to influence him

either one way or the other: out of complaifance, there-

fore, rather than any thing elfe, I told him, that I thought
fuch behaviour very uncourteous, efecinlld in a man of
his rank and dignity. As to the reafon of his determina-
tion, I did not think it worth while to enquire into it ;
but, by his difcourfe with the other Indians, I foon un-
derftood that they all intended to make an excurfion into
the country of the Athapufcow Indians, in order to kill
moofe and beaver. The former ot thofe animals are
never found in the Northern Indian territories; and the
latter are fo {carce in thofe Northern parts, that during the
whole Winter of one thoufand feven hundred and feventy,

with oats: but the part being nothing but a hot burning fand, like the Spanith
lines at Gibraltar, the fneoee may eafily be gual which was, that it did
not produce a fingle grain.

I did

NORTHERN OCEAN.

I did not fee more than two beaver houfes. Martins
are alfo fcarce in thofe parts; for during the above
period, I do not think that more than fix or eight were
killed by all the Indians in my company. This exceed-
ingly {mall number, among fo many people, may with
great truth be attributed to the indolence of the Indians,
and the wandering life which they lead, rather than to
the great fcarcity of the martins. It is true, that our mov-
ing fo frequently from place to place, did at times make
it not an object worth while to build traps; but had they
taken the advantage of all favourable opportunities, and
been poffeffed of half the induftry of the Company’s fer-
vants in the Bay, they might with great eafe have caught
-as many hundreds, if ae fome thoufands ; and when we
confider the extent of ground which we walked over in
that time, fuch a number would not have been any proof
of the martins Ee re plentiful.

Except a io martins; wolves, quiquchatches, foxes,
and otters, are the chief furrs to be met with in thofe parts,
and few of the Northern Indians chufe to kill either the
wolf or the quiquehatch, under a notion that they are
fomething more than common animals. Indeed, I have
known fome of them fo bigotted to this opinion, that
having by chance killed a quiquehatch by a gun which
had been fet for a fox, they have left it where it was killed,
and would not take off its fkin. Notwithftanding this

Ee filly ,

209

1775.

Keene, reece
OGober.

210

L751.
October.

goth. «

November
rit.

sth.

A JOURN Bx, WT Or Tat Ee

filly notion, which is too frequently to be obferved among
thofe people, it generally happens that there are fome in
every gang who are lefs fcrupulous, fo that none of thofe
furrs are ever left to rot; and even thofe who make a point
of not killing the animals themfelves, are ready to receive
their {kins from other sis a and carry them to the Fort
for trade.

By the thirtieth of O@ober, all our clothing, fhow-
fhoes, and temporary fledges, being completed, we once
more began to prepare for moving; and on the following
day fet out, and walked five or fix miles to the South-
ward,

From the firft to the fifth of November we walked on
the ice of a large lake, which, though very confiderable
both in length and breadth, is not diftinguifhed by any

general name; on which account I gave it the name of

No Name Lake. On the South fide of this lake we found
fome wood, which was very acceptable, being the firft
that we had feen fince we left Point Lake.

No Name Lake is about fifty miles long from North to
South, and, according to the account of the Indians, is thirty-
five miles wide from Eaft to Weft. It is faid to abound
with fine fifh; but the weather at the time we croffed it
was fo cold, as to render it impoflible to fit on the ice any

length

*NORTHERN‘: OC E.A:Ne 215

lenoth of time to'angle. A few exceedingly fine trout, 1771.
and fome very large pike, however, were caught by my November.
companions. }

When we arrived on the South fide of the above lake,
we fhaped our courfe to the South Weft; and though the
weather was in general very cold, yet as we every night
found tufts of wood, in which we could pitch our tents,
we were enabled to make a better defence again{t the
weather, than we had had it in our power to do for fome
time paft. |

On the tenth of November, we arrived at the edge of _ toth:

of the main woods; at which time the Indians began to
make proper fledges, fome fnow-fhoes, &c. after which
we proceeded again to the South Weft. But deer and
all other kinds of game were fo fcarce the whole way, that,
except a few partridges, nothing was killed by any in com-
pany: we had, neverthelefs, plenty of the provifion which
had been prepared at Point Lake..

On the twentieth of the. fame month, we arrived at 20th.
Anaw’d Whoie, or the Indian Lake. In our way we
crofled part of Methy Lake, and walked near eighty miles
on a {mall river belonging to it, which empties itfelf into
the Great Athapufcow Lake *. While we were walking

* The courfe of this river is nearly South Weft.
Ee) 2 on

212

1791,

November.

A. JOU Bee OO bi) &

on the above little river, the Indians fet fifhing-nets under
the ice every night; but their labour was attended with
fo little fuccefs, that all they caught ferved only as a
delicacy, or to make a little change in our diet; for the
quantity was too trifling to occafion any confiderable faving
of our other provifions. —

Anaw’d Lake, though fo {mall as not to exceed twenty
miles wide in the broadeft part, is celebrated by the na-
tives for abounding with plenty of fith during the Winter;
accordingly the Indians fet all their nets, which were not
a few, and met with fuch fuccefs, that in about ten days
the roes only were as much as all the women could haul
after them.

Tittimeg and barble, with a few fmall pike, were the
only fith caught at this part; the roes of which, parti-
cularly thofe of the tittimeg, are more efteemed by the
Northern Indians, to-take with them on a journey, than
the fith itfelf; for about two pounds weight of thefe roes,
when well bruifed, will make near four gallons of broth,
as thick as common burgoe; and if properly managed,
will be as white as rice, which makes it very pleafing to
the eye, and no lefs agreeable to the palate.

The land round this lake is very hilly, though not

mountainous, and chiefly confifts of rocks and loofe

ftones; there muft, however, be a {mall portion of foil ..

6 | on

NORTHERN OCEAN.

on the furface, as it is in moft parts well clothed with tall
poplars, pines, fir, and birch; particularly in the vallies,
where the poplars, pine, and birch feem to thrive beft ;
but the firs were as large, and in as flourifhing a ftate, on
the very fummit of the hills, as in any other part.

Rabbits were here fo plentiful, particularly on the South
and South Eaft fide of the lake, that feveral of the In-
dians caught twenty or thirty in a night with {nares; and
the wood-partridges were fo numerous in the fir trees, and

fo tame, that I have known an Indian kill near twenty of

them in a day with his bow and arrows. The Northern
Indians call this {pecies of the partridge Day ; and though
their flefh is generally very black and bitter, occafioned
by their feeding on the brufh of the fir tree, yet they
make a variety, or change of diet, and are thought ex-
ceedingly good, particularly by the natives, who, though
capable of living fo hard, and at times eating very ungrate-
ful food, are neverthelefs as fond of variety as any people
whom I ever faw ; and will go as great lengths, according
to their circumftances, to gratify their palates, as the
greateft epicure in England. As a proof of this affertion,
I have frequently known Matonabbee, and others who
could afford it, for the fake of variety only, fend fome of
their young men to kill a few partridges at the expence of
more ammunition than would have killed deer fufficient
to have maintained their families many days ;, whereas the
partridges were always eaten up at one meal: and to

heighten

213

1771:

November.

214

1771.
Same

November.

A JOURNEY ‘TO4T HE

heighten the luxury on thefe occafions, the partridges are

boiled in a kettle of theer fat, which it muft be allowed
renders them beyond all defcription finer flavoured than —
when boiled in water or common broth. © I have alfo cat
deer- {kins boiled in fat, which were e exceedingly good.

As during our ftay at-Anaw’d Lake feveral of the In-
dians were fickly, the doctors undertook to adminifter re-
lief ; particularly to one man, who had been hauled on a
fledge by his brother for two months. His diforder was
the dead palfey, which affected one fide, from the crown
of his head to the fole of his foot. Befides this dreadful
diforder, he had fome inward complaints, with a total lofs
of appetite; fo that he was reduced to a mere fkeleton,
and fo weak as to be fcarcely capable of {peaking. In this
deplorable condition, he was laid in the center of a large
conjuring-houfe, made much after the manner as that
which has been already defcribed. And that nothing
might be wanting toward his recovery, the fame man who
deceived me in fwallowing a bayonet in the Summer, now
offered to fwallow a large piece of board, about the fize
of a barrel-flave, in order to effect his recovery. The
piece of board was prepared by another man, and painted
according to the dire&tion of the juggler, with a rude re-
prefentation of fome beaft of prey on one fide, and on the |
reverfe was painted, according to their rude method, a re~
fembiance of the fky.

Without

a
aA § 3
ee

7 ae

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Without entering into a long detail of the preparations
for this feat, I fhall at once proceed to obferve, that after
the conjurer had held the neceflary conference with his
invifible fpirits, or fhadows, he afked if I was prefent ;
for he had heard of my faying that I did not fee him
{wallow the bayonet fair: and on being anfwered in the
afirmative, he defired me to come nearer; on which the
mob made.a lane for me to pafs, and I advanced clofe to
him, and found him ftanding at the conjuring-houfe door
as naked as he was born.

ere

1771.
‘Laem. eee)

November.

When the piece of board was delivered to him, he pro- |

pofed at fiarft only to fhove one-third of it down his throat,
and then walk round the company afterward to fhove
down another third; and fo proceed till he had fwallowed

the whole, except a {mall piece of the end, which was

left behind to haul it up again. When he put it to this: .

mouth it apparently flipped down his throat like lightning,

and only left about three inches fticking without his lips ;,

after walking backwards and forwards three times, he
hauled it up again, and ran into the conjuring-houfe with

ereat precipitation. This he did to all appearance with.
great eafe and compofure; and notwithftanding I was all
attention on the occafion, I could not dete& the deceit ;.

and as to the reality of its being a piece of wood that he

_ pretended to fwallow, there is not the leaft reafon to doubt:
of it, for I had it in my hand, both before. and imme-

diately after the ceremony,
To

216 av yO URN No ore

1771. To prevent a varicty of opinions on this occafion, and
November, to leffen the apparent magnitude of the miracle, as well
as to give fome colour to my {cepticifm, which might
otherwife perhaps appear ridiculous, it is necefiary to ob-

ferve, that this feat was performed in a dark and excef-

fively cold night; and although there was a large fire at

fome diftance, which refleéted a good light, yet there was

ereat room for collufion: for though the conjurer himfelr

was quite naked, there were feveral of his fraternity well-
clothed, who attended him very clofe during the time of

his attempting to {wallow the board, as well as at the time

of his fags it up again.

For thefe reafons it is sce alfo to obferve, that on
the day preceding the performance of this piece of decep-
tion, in one of my hunting excurfions, I accidentally
came acrofs the conjurer as he was fitting under a bubh,
feveral miles from the tents, where he was bufily employed
fhaping a piece of wood exactly like that part which ftuck
out of his mouth after he had pretended to {wallow the
remainder of the piece. The fhape of the piece which J
faw him making was this, WY ; which exaétly refembled

"the forked end of the main piece, the fhape of which was
this, [| | ‘&. So that when his attendants had con-
cealed the main piece, it was eafy for him to ftick the
{mall point into his mouth, as it was reduced at the {mall
end to a proper fize for the purpofe.. .

Similar .
tag

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Similar proofs may eafily be urged againft his fwallow-

ing the bayonet in the Summer, as no perfon lefs ignorant
than themfelves can poflibly place any belief in the reality
of thofe feats; yet on the whole, they muft be allowed
a confiderable fhare of dexterity in the performance of
thofe tricks, and a wonderful deal of perfeverance in what
they do for the relief of thofe whom they undertake

to cure.

Not long after the above performance had taken place,
fome of the Indians began to afk me what I thought of
it. As I could not have any plea for faying that I was far

off, and at the fame time not caring to affront them by .

hinting my fufpicions of the deceit, I was fome time at a
lofs for an anfwer: I urged, however, the impoffibility
of a man’s {wallowing a piece of wood, that was not only
much longer than his whole back, but nearly twice as
broad as he could extend his mouth. On which fome of
them laughed at my ignorance, as they were pleafed to
call it; and faid, that the fpirits in waiting {wallowed, or
otherwife concealed, the ftick, and only left the forked end
apparently fticking out of the conjurer’s mouth. My
guide, Matonakbee, with all his other good fenfe, was {fo
bigotted to the reality of thofe performances, that he af-
{ured me in the ftrongeft terms, he had {een a man, who was
then in company, fwallow a child’s cradle, with as much
eafe as he could fold up a piece of paper, and put it into
his mouth; and that when he hauled it up again, not the

Rt mark

217

1771.

November.

218

1771.

November.

A-JOCURNER TO THe

mark of a tooth, or of any violence, was to be difcovered
about it.

This ftory fo far exceeded the feats which I had feen
with the bayonet and board, that, for the fake of keeping
up the farce, I began to be very inquifitive about the
fpirits which appear to them on thofe occafions, and their
form; when I was told that they appeared in various
fhapes, for almoft every conjurer had his peculiar attend-

nt; but that the fpirit which attended the man who pre-
tended to {wallow the piece of wood, they faid, generally
appeared to him in the fhape of a cloud. This I thought
very a-propos to the prefent occafion; and I muft confefs
that I never had fo thick a cloud thrown before my eyes
before or fince; and had it not been by accident, that I
faw him make a counterpart to the piece of wood faid to
be fwallowed, I fhould have been ftill at a lofs how to ac-
count for fo extraordinary a piece of deception, ieee
by a man who was entirely naked.

As foon as our conjurer had executed the above feat,
and entered the conjuring-houfe, as already mentioned,
five other men and an old woman, all of whom were great
profeffors of that art, ftripped themfelves quite naked and
followed him, when they foon began to fuck, blow, fing,
and dance, round the poor paralytic ; and continued fo to
do for three days and four nights, without taking the leaft
reft or refrefhment, not even fo much asa drop of water.

When

NORTHERN OCEAN.

When thefe poor deluding and deluded people came out of
the conjuring-houfe, their mouths were fo parched with
thirft as to be quite black, and their throats fo fore, that
they were {carcely able to articulate a fingle word, except
thofe that ftand for yes and zo in their language.

After fo long an abftinence they were very careful not
to eat or drink too much at one time, particularly for the
firft day ; and indeed fome of them, to appearance, were
almoft as bad as the poor man they had been endeavouring
to relieve. But great part of this was feigned; for they
lay on their backs with their eyes fixed, as if in the ago-
nies of death, and were treated like young children; one
perfon fat conftantly by them, moiftening their mouths
with fat, and now and then giving them a drop of water.
At other times a {mall bit of meat was put into their
mouths, or a pipe held for them to {moke. This farce
only lafted for the firft day ; after which they feemed to
be-perfeatly well, except the hoarfenefs, which continued
-for a confiderable time afterwards. And it is truly won-
derful, though the ftricteft truth, that when the poor fick
man was taken from the conjuring-houfe, he had not only
recovered his appetite to an amazing degree, but was able
to move all the fingers and toes of the fide that had been
fo long dead. In three weeks he recovered fo far as to be
capable of walking, and at the end of fix weeks went a
hunting for his family. He was one of the perfons * par-

* His name was Cof-abyagh, the Northern Indian name for the Rock

Partridge.

Ff 2 ticularly

219
177%;

ee |
November:

220

ih

November.

A JOURNEY TO THE

acidity engaged to provide for me during my journey ;
and after his recovery from this dreadful diforder, accom-
panied me back to Prince of Wales’s Fort in June one
thoufand feven hundred and feventy-two; and fince that
time he has frequently vifited the Fa@tory, though he never
had a healthy look afterwards, and at times feemed troubled
with a nervous complaint. It may be added, that he had
been formerly of a remarkable lively difpofition ; but after
his laft illnefs he always appeared thoughtful, fometimes
gloomy, and, in fact, the-diforder feemed to have changed
his whole nature ; for before that dreadful paralytic ftroke,
he was diftinguifhed for his good-nature and benevolent
difpofition ; was entirely free from every appearance of
avarice; and the whole of his wifhes feemed confined
within the narrow limits of poffefling as many goods as
were abfolutely neceffary, with his own induftry, to enable
him to fupport his family from feafon to feafon ; but after
this event, he was the moft fraGtious, quarrelfome, difcon-
tented, and covetous wretch alive.

Though the ordinary trick of thefe conjurers may be
eafily detected, and juftly exploded, being no more than
the tricks of common jugglers, yet the apparent good
effe@ of their labours on the fick and difeafed is not fo
eafily accounted for. Perhaps the implicit confidence
placed in them by the fick may, at times, leave the mind
fo perfeGly at reft, as to caufe the diforder to take a fa-
vourable turn; and a few fuccefsful cafes are quite fuf-
ficient to eftablifh the doétor’s character and reputation :

3 But

NORTHERN OCEAN.

But how this confideration could operate in the cafe I have
juft mentioned I am at a lofs to fay; fuch, however, was.
the faa, and I leave it to be accounted for by others.

When thefe jugglers take a diflike to, and threaten a fecret
revenge on any perfon, it often proves fatal to that perfon ;
as, from a firm belief that the conjurer has power over his
life, he permits the very thoughts of it to prey on his
fpirits, till by degrees it brings on a diforder which puts
an end to his exiftence *: and fometimes a threat of this

kind

* As a proof of this, Matonabbee, (who always thought me poffeffed of

this art,) on his arrival at Prince of Wales’s Fort in the Winter of 1778,
informed me, that a man whom I had never feen but once, had treated him:
in fuch a manner that he was afraid of his life; in confequence of which he

preffed me very much to kill him, though I was then feveral hundreds of miles-

diftant. On which, to pleafe this great man to whom I owed fo much, and
not expecting that. any harm could poffibly arife from it, I drew a rough fketch.
of two human figures ona piece of paper, in the attitude of wreftling: in the
hand of one of them, I drew the figure of a bayonet pointing to the breaft
of the other. This is me, faid I to Matonabbee, pointing to the figure which:
was holding the bayonet; and the other, is your enemy. Oppofite to thofe
figures I drew a pine-tree, over which I placed a large human eye, and out
of the tree projected a human hand. ‘This paper I gave to Matonabbee,: with
inftructions to make it as publicly known as poffible. Sure enough, the fol-
lowing year, when he came in to trade, he informed me that the man was:
dead, though at that time he was. not lefs than three hundred miles from Prince
Wales’s Fort. He affured me that the man was in perfect health when he
heard of my defign againft him; but almoft immediately afterwards became
quite gloomy, and refufing all kind of fuftenance, in. a very few days died.
After this 1 was frequently applied to on the fame account, both by Mate-
nabbee and other leading Indians, but never thought proper to comply with.
their requefts; by which means I not only preferved the credit I gained on the
firft attempt, but always kept them in awe,, and in fome degree of refpect and

obedience

22

177%.

November.

222

1771.

November.

December
1{t.

13th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

kind caufes the death of a whole family ; and that without

any blood being fhed, or the leaft apparent moleftation
being offered to any of the parties.

Having dried as many fifh and fifh-roes as we could con-
veniently take with us, we once more packed up our
ftores, and, on the farft day of December, fet out, and
continued our courfe to the South Weft, leaving Anaw’d
Lake on the South Weft. Several of the Indians being
out of order, we made but fhort days journies.

From the farft to the thirteenth, we walked along a courfe
of {mall lakes, joined to each other by {mall rivers, or
creeks, that have communication with Anaw’d Lake.

In our way we caught daily a few fifth by angling, and
faw many beaver houfes; but thefe were generally in fo
difficult a fituation, and had fo many ftones in the com-
pofition of them, that the Indians killed but few, and
that at a great expence of labour and tools.

On the thirteenth, one of the Indians killed two deer,
which were the firft that we had feen fince the twentieth

obedience to me. In fact, ftrange as it may appear, it is almoft abfolutely
neceffary that the chiefs at this place fhould profefs fomething a little fuperna-
tural, to be able to deal with thofe people. The circumftance here recorded
is a faét well known to Mr. William Jefferfon, who fucceeded me at Churchill
Factory, as well as to all the officers and many of the common men who were
at Prince of Wales’s Fort at the time.

of

NORTHERN O'CEA N,

of Odtober. So that during a period of near two months,
we had lived on the dried meat that we had prepared at
Point Lake, and a few fifth; of which the latter was not
very confiderable in quantity, except what was caught at
Anaw’d Lake. It is true, we alfo caught a few rabbits,
and at times the wood-partridges were fo plentiful, that
the Indians killed confiderable numbers of them with their
bows and arrows; but the number of mouths was fo great,
that all which was caught from our leaving Point Lake,
though, if enumerated, they might appear very confiderable,

would not have afforded us all a bare fubfiftence; for though

I and fome others experienced no real want, yet there
were many in our company who could fcarcely be faid to
live, and would not have exifted at all, had it not been
for the dry meat we had with us.

When we left the above-mentioned lakes we fhaped a
courfe more to the Southward, and on the twenty-fourth,
arrived at the North fide of the great Athapufcow Lake.
In our way we faw many Indian deer, and beaver were
very plentiful, many of which the Indians killed; but
the days were fo fhort, that the Sun only took a circuit of
a few points of the compafs above the horizon, and did
not, at its greateft altitude, rife half-way up the trees.
The brilliancy of the Aurora Borealis, however, and of
the Stars, even without the afliftance of the Moon, made
fome amends for that deficiency ; for it was frequently fo
light all night, that I could fee to read a very {mall print.

Phe

223

1771.
em auemeemad

December.

24th.

224

177%.
aie

December,

A JOURNEY TO THE

The Indians make no difference between night and day
when they are hunting of beaver; but thofe nofurnal
lights are always found infuficient for the purpofe of
hunting deer or moofe.

I do not remember to have met with any travellers into ©
high Northern latitudes, who remarked their having heard
the Northern Lights make any noife in the air as they vary
their colours or pofition; which may probably be owing to —
the want of perfec filence at the time they made their ob-
fervations on thofe meteors. I can pofitively affirm, that
in ftill nights I have frequently heard them make a ruftling

and crackling noife, like the waving of a large flag in a freth

gale of wind. ‘This is not peculiar to the place of which I
am now writing, as I have heard the fame noife very plain at
Churchill River; and in all probability it is only for want
of attention that it has not been heard in every part of the
Northern hemifphere where they have been known to fhine

with any confiderable degree of luftre. It is, however, very

probable that thefe lights are fometimes much nearer the
Earth than they are at others, according to the ftate of
the atmofphere, and this may have a great effe& on the
found: but the truth or falfehood of this conje@ure I
leave to the determinations of thofe who are better fkilled
in natural philofophy than I can pretend to be.

Indian deer (the only fpecies found in thofe parts, ex-
cept the moofe) are fo much larger than thofe which fre-
quent

NORTHERN OCEAN

quent the barren grounds to the North of Churchill River,
that a {mall doe is equal in fize to a Northern buck. The
hair of the former is of a fandy red during the Winter ;
and their horns, though much ftronger, are not fo long
and branchy as are thofe of the latter kind. Neither
is the flefh of thofe deer fo much efteemed by the North-
ern Indians, as that of the fmaller kind, which inhabit the
_ more Eaftern and Northern parts of the country. Indeed,

it muft be allowed to be much coarfer, and of a different’
flavour; inafmuch as the large Lincolnfhire mutton differs ~

from grafs lamb. I muft acknowledge, however, that I
always thought it very good. ‘This is that {pecies of deer
which are found fo plentiful near York Fort and Severn
River. They are alfo at times found in confiderable num-

bers near Churchill River; and I have feen them killed as:

far North, near the fea-fide, as Seal River: But the {mall

Northern Indian deer are feldom known to crofs Churchill ”

River, except in fome very extraordinary cold feafons, and

when the Northern winds have prevailed much in the

preceding fall; for thofe vifits are always made in the

Winter. But though I own that the fiefh of the large

Southern deer is very good, I muft at the fame time con-
fefs that the flefh of the {mall Northern deer, whether
buck or doe, in their proper feafon, is by far more deli-
cious, and the fineft I have ever eaten, either in this
country or any other; and is of that peculiar quality, that
it never cloys. I can affirm this from my-own experience ;

Gg for,

225

“77%:

December.

226

1771.
a cel

December.

A JOU2 SN Beg oO ote

for, after living on it entirely, as it may be faid, for twelve
or eighteen months fucceflively, I {carcely ever wifhed for
a change of food; though when fith or fowl came in my
way, it was very agrecable.

The beaver being fo plentiful, the attention of my com-
panions was chiefly engaged on them, as they not only
furnifhed delicious food, but their fkins proved a valuable
acquifition, being a principal article of trade, as well as
a ferviceable one for clothing, &c.

The fituation of the beaver-houfes is various. Where
the beavers are numerous they are found to inhabit lakes,
ponds, and rivers, as well as thofe narrow creeks which
connect’ the numerous lakes with which this country
abounds ; but the two latter are generally chofen by them
when the depth of water and other circumftances are fuit-
able, as they have then the advantage of a current to
convey wood and other neceffaries to their habitations, and
becaufe, in general, they are more difficult to be taken,
than thofe that are built in flanding water.

There is no one particular part of a lake, pond, river,
or creek, of which the beavers make choice for building
their houfes on, in preference to another ; for they fome-
times build on points, fometimes in the hollow of a bay,
and often on {mall iflands; they always chufe, however,

thofe

NORTHERN OCEAN.

thofe parts that have fuch a depth ise water as will refift
the froft in Winter, and prevent it from freezing to the
bottom.

The beaver that build their houfes in {mall rivers or
creeks, in which the water is liable to be drained off when
the back fupplies are dried up by the froft, are wonder-

fully taught by inftin@ to provide againft that evil, by -

making a dam quite acrofs the river, at a convenient dif-
tance from their houfes. ‘This I look upon as the moft
curious piece of workmanfhip that is performed by the
beaver ; not fo much for the neatnefs of the work, as for
its ftrength and real fervice; and at the fame time it
difcovers fuch a degree of fagacity and forefight in the
animal, of approaching evils, as is little inferior to that
of the human fpecies, and is certainly peculiar to thofe

animals.

The beaver-dams differ in fhape according to the nature
of the place in which they are built. If the water in the
river or creek have but little motion, the dam is almoft
ftraight ; but when the current is more rapid, it is always
made with a confiderable curve, convex toward the ftream.
The materials made ufe of in thofe dams are drift-wood,
green willows, birch, and poplars, if they can be got;
alfo mud and ftones, intermixed in fuch a manner as muft
evidently contribute to the ftrength of the dam; but in
thefe dams there is no other order or method obferved, ex-

°'G g 2 cept

227

sy

December.

228 Ai f,0 UR Nha Oger 6.

_ '77% cept. that of the work being carried on with a regular fweep,

neers

December. and all the parts being made of equal ftrength.

In places which have been long frequented by beaver
undifturbed, their dams, by frequent repairing, become a
folid bank, capable of refifting a great force both of water
and ice; and as the willow, poplar, and birch generally
take root and fhoot up, they by degrees form a kind of
regular-planted hedge, which I have feen in fome places

fo tall, that birds have built their nefts RE the
branches.

Though the beaver which build their houfes in lakes and
other ftanding waters, may enjoy a fufficient quantity of
their favourite element without the afliftance of a dam,
the trouble of getting wood and other neceffaries to their
habitations without the help of a current, muft in fome
meafure counterbalance the other advantages which are |
reaped from fuch a fituation ; for it muft be obferved, that
the beaver which build in rivers and creeks, always cut their
wood above their houfes, fo that the current, with little
trouble, conveys it to the place required.

The beaver-houfes are built of the fame materials as
their dams, and are always proportioned in fize to the
number of inhabitants, which: feldom exceed’ four old;
and fix or eight young ones; though, by chance, TF have
feen above double that number.

Thefe

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Fhefe houfes, though not altogether unworthy of ad-
miration, fall very fhort of the general defcription given
ef them; for inftead of order or regulation being ob-
ferved in rearing them, they are of a much ruder ftru€ture
than their dams.

Thofe who have undertaken: to defcribe the infide of

beaver-houfes, as having feveral apartments appropriated to
various ufes; fuch as eating, fleeping, ftore-houfes for pro-

vifions, and one for their natural occafions, &c¢. muft -

have been very little acquainted with the fubje@; or,
which is ftill worfe, guilty of attempting to impofe on
the credulous, by reprefenting the greateft falfehoods as
real facts. Many years conftant refidence among the In-
dians, during which I had an opportunity of {eeing feveral
hundreds of thofe houfes, has. enabled me to affirm that
every thing of the kind is. entirely void of truth; for,.
notwithftanding the fagacity of thofe animals,. it has never,
been obferved that they aim at any. other. conveniencies.
in their houfes, than to have a dry place to lie on; and.
there they ufually eat. their viduals, which they occafion-.
ally take out of the water.

It frequently happens, that fome of the. large houfes
are found to have one or. more partitions, if they deferve:
that appellation ; but that is no more than a part of the
main building, left by the fagacity of the beaver to fup-
port the roof.. On fuch occafions it is common for thofe.

different.

229

ET] is
(eee meen)

December.

230

W794

December.

&oyou R MEY 1m o) TH E

different apartments, as fome are pleafed to call them, to
have no communication with each other but by water; fo
that in fa&t they may be called double or treble houfes,
sather than different apartments of the fame houfe. I
have feen a large beaver-houfe built in a {mall ifland, that

had near a dozen apartments under one roof: and, two or

three of thefe only excepted, none of. them had any com-
munication with each other but by water. As there were
beaver enough to inhabit each apartment, it is more than
probable that each family knew its own, and always en-
tered at their own door, without having any farther con-

ne@ion with their neighbours than a friendly intercourfe ;

and to join their united labours in erecting their feparate ha-
bitations, and building their dams where required. It is

difficult to fay whether their intereft on other occafions

‘was anyways reciprocal. The Indians of my party killed
twelve old beaver, and twenty-five young and half{-grown
ones out of the houfeabove mentioned; and on examination
found that feveral had efcaped their vigilance, and could
not be taken but at the expence of more trouble than
would be fufficient to take double the number in ‘a lefs
difficult fituation *.

Travellers who affert that the beaver have two doors to
their houfes, one on the land-fide, and the other next the

* The difficulty here alluded to, was the numberlefs vaults the beaver had
in the fides of the pond, and the immenfe thicknefs of the houfe in fome
parts.

water,

WOR THME RN: OME AN.

water, feem to be lefs acquainted with thofe animals than
others who aflign them an elegant fuite of apartments.
Such a proceeding would be quite contrary to their manner

of life, and at the fame time would render their houfes of.
no ufe, either to protect them from their enemies, or guard.

them againft the extreme cold in. Winter.

The quiquehatches, or wolvereens, are great enemies to”
the beaver ; and if there were a pafiage into their houfes
on the land-fide, would not leave one of them alive where~-

ever they came.

I cannot refrain from fmiling, when I read the accounts

of different Authors who have written. on the ceconomy

of thofe animals, as there feems to be a conteft between

them, who fhall moft exceed in fiction:. But the Compiler :

of fie Wonders of Nature and Art feems, in my opinion,

to have fucceeded beft in. this refpeé ; as he has not only

collected all the fiGiions into: which other writers on the

fubje@ have run, but has fo greatly improved on them,

that little remains to be added to his account of the beaver,

befide a vocabulary of their language, a code of their laws,

and a fketch of their religion, to make it the moft com-

plete natural hiftory of that animal.which can: ey be
offered to.the public.

There cannot be a greater impofition, or indeed a
grofler infult, on common underftanding, than the with

7 : to:

23%

1771.
an aime

December,

232

1yyae

December.

A FOURNEY TO THE
to-make us believe the ftories of fome of the works afcribed
to the beaver; and though it is not to be fuppofed that the
compiler of a general work can be intimately acquainted
with every fubje&t of which it may be neceffary to treat,
yet a very moderate fhare of underftanding is furely fuf-
ficient to guard him againft giving credit to fuch mar-

-vellous tales, however {moothly they may be told, or

however boldly they may be afferted, by the romancing

traveller.

To deny that the beaver is poffefled of a very confider-’

_ able degree of fagacity, would be as abfurd in me, as it is in

thofe Authors who think they cannot allow them too much.
I .fhall willingly grant them their full fhare; but it is im-
poflible for any one to conceive how, or by what means,
a beaver, whofe full height when ftanding ere& does
not exceed two feet and a half, or three feet at moft, and
whofe fore-paws are not much larger than a half-crown
piece, can ‘* drive ftakes as thick as a man’s leg into the
‘< sround three or four feet deep.”’ Their ‘‘ wattling thofe
‘* flakes with twigs,” is equally abfurd ; and their ‘* plaif-
‘tering the infide of their houfes with a compofition of
<< mud and ftraw, and {wimming with mud and ftones on
‘¢ their tails,’ are ftill more incredible. The form and
fize of the animal, notwithftanding all its fagacity, will
not admit of its performing fuch feats; and it would be
as impoflible for a beaver to ufe its tailasa trowel, except
on the furface of the ground on which it walks, as it

would

NORTHERN OCEAN.

would have been for Sir James Thornhill to have painted
the dome of St. Paul’s cathedral without the affiftance of
{caffolding. The joints of their tail will not admit of
their turning it over their backs on any occafion what-
ever, as it has a natural inclination to bend downwards;
and itis not without fome confiderable exertion that they
can keep it from trailing on the ground. This being the
cafe, they cannot fit ered like a fquirrel, which is their
common pofture ; particularly when eating, or when they
are cleaning themfelves, as a cat or fquirrel does, without
having their tails bent forward between their legs; and
which may not improperly be called their trencher.

So far are the beaver from driving ftakes into the ground
when building their houfes, that they lay moft of the wood
crofswife, and nearly horizontal, and without any other
order than that of leaving a hollow or cavity in the middle;
when any unneceflary branches project inward, they cut
them off with their teeth, and throw them in among the
reft, to prevent the mud from falling through the roof.
It is a miftaken notion, that the wood-work is firft com-
pleted and then plaiftered; for the whole of their houfes,
as well as their dams, are from the foundation one maf{s
_ of wood and mud, mixed with ftones, if they can be pro-
cured. ‘The mud is always taken from the edge of the
bank, or the bottom of the creek or pond, near the door
of the houfe; and though their fore-paws are fo f{mall,
yet it is held clofe up between them, under their throat,

Hh | that

“53

177%.
Rcementn ard

December.

234
1771

Le
December.

A JOURNEY TO THE

that they carry both mud and ftones; while they always
drag the wood with their teeth. |

All their work is executed in the night; and they are
fo expeditious in completing it, that in the courfe of one
night I have known them to have colleéted as much mud at
their houfes as to have amounted to fome thoufands of their
little handfuls; and when any mixture of grafs or ftraw has
appeared in it, it has been, moft affuredly, mere chance,
owing tothe nature of the ground from which they had
taken it. As to their defignedly making a compofition for —
that purpofe, it is entirely void of truth.

It is a great piece of policy in thofe animals, to cover, or
plaifter, as it is ufually called, the outfide of their houfes
every fall with frefh mud, and as late as poffible in the
Autumn, even when the froft becomes pretty fevere; as
by this means it foon freezes as hard as aftone, and pre-
vents their common enemy, the quiquehatch, from dif-
turbing them during the Winter. And as they are fre-
quently feen to walk over their work, and fometimes to
give a flap with their tail, particularly when plunging into

the water, this has, without doubt, given rife to the vulgar

opinion that they ufe their tails as a trowel, with which |
they plaifter their houfes ; whereas that flapping of the tail
is no more than a cuftom, which they always preferve,
even when they’become tame and domeftic, and more par-
ticularly fo when they are ftartled.

5 Their

NORTHERN OCEAN. 235
Their food chiefly confifts of a large root, fomething 1771.
refembling a cabbage-ftalk, which grows at the bottom ‘Deceation
of the lakes and rivers. They eat alfo the bark of trees,
particularly that of the poplar, birch, and willow; but
the ice preventing them from getting to the land in Winter,
they have not any barks to feed upon during that feafon,
except that of fuch fticks as they cut down in Summer,
and throw into the water oppofite the doors of their
houfes ; and as they generally eat a great deal, the roots
above mentioned conftitute:a chief part of their food during
the Winter. In Summer they vary their diet, by eating
various kinds of herbage, and fuch berries as grow near
their haunts during that feafon.

When the ice breaks up in the Spring, the beaver al-
ways leave their houfes, and rove about the whole Sum-
mer, probably in fearch of a more commodious fituation;
but in cafe of not fucceeding in their endeavours, they
return again to their old habitations a little before the fall
of the leaf, and lay in their Winter ftock of woods.
They feldom begin to repair the houfes till the froft
commences, and never finifh the outer-coat till the cold is
pretty fevere, as hath been already mentioned.

_ When they fhift their habitations, or when the increafe

of their number renders it neceffary to make fome addition ©
to their houfes, or to erect new ones, they begin felling
. Hh 2 the

236

1771.
bees ean

December.

AV, JOURNEY MOrrtrHag

thaitroad) forsthele purpofes early in the Summer, but
feldom begin to build till the middle or latter end of
Auguft, and never complete their houfes till the cold

weather be fet in.

Notwithftanding what has been fo repeatedly reported
of thofe animals aflembling in great bodies, and jointly
erecting large towns, cities, and commonwealths, as they
have fometimes been called, Iam confident, from many
circumftances, that even where the greateft numbers of
beaver are fituated in the neighbourhood of each other,
their labours are not carried on jointly in the ereftion of
their different habitations, nor have they any reciprocal —
intereft, except it be fuch as live immediately under the
fame roof ; and then it extends no farther than to build or

keep a dam which is common to feveral houfes. In fuch

cafes it is natural to think that every one who receives be-
nefit from fuch dams, fhould affift in erecting it, being
fenfible of its utility to all.

Perfons who attempt to take beaver in Winter fhould
be thoroughly acquainted with their manner of life, other-
wife they will have endlefs trouble to efte& their purpofe,
and probably without fuccefs in the end ;_ becaufe they have
always a number of holes in the banks, which ferve them as
places of retreat when any injury is oftered to their houfes;
and in general it is in thofe holes that they are taken.

When

NOUR TH E/R N{.O'C EA N;

When the beaver which are fituated in a {mall river or

creek are to be taken, the Indians fometimes find it ne-

ceflary to ftake the river acrofs, to prevent them from
pafling ; after which, they endeavour to find out all their
holes or places of retreat in the banks. This requires much
practice and experience to accomplifh, and is performed in
the following manner: Every man being furnifhed with
an ice-chifel, lafhes it to the end of a {mall ftaff about
four or five feet long; he then walks along the edge of
the banks, and keeps knocking his chifels againft the ice.
_Thofe who are well acquainted with that kind of work
well know by the found of the ice when they are oppofite
to any of the beavers’ holes or vaults. As foon as they
fufpeét any, they cut a hole through the ice big enough to
admit an old beaver; and in this manner proceed till they
have found out all their places of retreat, or at leaft as
many of them as poflible. While the principal men are
thus employed, fome of the underftrappers, and the wo-
men, are bufy in breaking open the houfe, which at times
is no eafy ‘tafk; for I have frequently known thefe houfes
to be five and fix feet thick; and one in particular, was
more than eight feet thick on the crown. When the beaver
find that their habitations are invaded, they fly to their
holes in the banks for fhelter ; and on being perceived by
the Indians, which is eafily done, by attending to the
motion of the water, they block up the entrance with
ftakes of wood, and then haul the beaver out of its hole,
either by hand, if they can reach it, or with a large hook

made

ASF
LAGE.

December.

238
“1771.

December.

A JOURNEY TO THE

made for that purpofe, which is faftened to the end of a
long ftick.

In this kind of hunting, every man has the fole right
to all the beaver caught by him in the holes or vaults; and
as this is a conftant rule, each perfon takes care to mark
fuch as he difcovers, by fticking up the branch of a tree,
or fome other diftinguifhing pott, by which he may know
them. All that are caught in the houfe alfo are the pro-
perty of the perfon who finds it.

The fame regulations are obferved, and the fame procefs
ufed in taking beaver that are found in lakes and other
ftanding waters, except it be that of ftaking the lake
acrofs, which would be both unneceffary and impoflible.
Taking beaver-houfes in thefe fituations is generally at-
tended with lefs trouble and more fuccefs than in the
former.

The beaver is an animal which cannot keep under water
long at a time; fo that when their houfes are broke open,
and all their places of retreat difcovered, they have but
one choice left, as it may be called, either to be taken in
their houfes or their vaults: in general they prefer the
latter ; for where there is one beaver caught in the houfe,
many thoufands are taken in their vaults in the banks,
Sometimes they are caught in nets, and in the Summer
very frequently in traps. In Winter they are very fat and

delicious ;

4

NORTHERN, OCEAN.

delicious; but the trouble of rearing their young, the
thinnefs of their hair, and their conftantly roving from
place to place, with the trouble they have in providing
againft the approach of Winter, generally keep them very
poor during the Summer feafon, at which time their flefh
is but indifferent eating, and their fkins of fo little value,
that the Indians generally finge them, even.to the amount
of many thoufands in one Summer. They have from two
to five young, ata time. Mr. Dobbs, in his Account of
Hudfon’s Bay, enumerates no lefs than eight different
kinds of beaver; but it muft be underftood that they are
all of one kind and fpecies: his diftinctions arife wholly
from the different feafons of the year in which they are
killed, and the different ufes to which their fkins are ap-
plied, which is the fole reafon that they vary fo much in
value.

7 4
Jofeph Lefranc, or Mr. Dobbs for him, fays, that a
good hunter can kill fix hundred beaver in one feafon, and
can only carry one hundred to market. If that was
really the cafe in Lefranc’s time, the canoes muft have
been much {fmaller than they are at prefent; for it is
well known that the generality of the canoes which have
vifited the Company’s Factories for the laft forty or fifty
years, are capable of carrying three hundred beaver-skins
with great eafe, exclufive of the Indians luggage, pro-
vifions, &c.

If

239

W77h.

December.

240
177%.

December.

A JOURNEM @ © SME

If ever a particular Indian killed fix hundred beaver in
one Winter, (which is rather to be doubted,) it is more
than probable that many in his company did not kill —
twenty, and perhaps fome none at all; fo that by diftri-
buting them among thofe who had bad fuccefs, and others
who had no abilities for that kind of hunting, there would
be no neceflity of leaving them to rot, or for finging them
in the fire, as related by that Author. During my refi-
dence among the Indians I have known fome individuals
kill more beaver, and other heavy furrs, in the courfe of a
Winter, than their wives could manage; but the overplus —
was never wantonly deftroyed, but always given to their
relations, or to thofe who had been lefs fuccefsful ; fo that
the whole of the great hunters labours were always brought
tothe FaGory. It is indeed too frequently a cuftom among
the Southern Indians to finge many otters, as well as
beaver ; but this is feldom done, except in Summer, when
their fkins are of fo little value as to be fcarcely worth the
duty ; on which account it has been always thought im-
politic to encourage the natives to kill fuch valuable ani-
mals at a time when their fkins are not in feafon.

The white beaver, mentioned by Lefranc, are fo rare, that
inftead of being ‘‘ blown upon by the Company’s Faétors,”’
as he aflerts, I rather doubt whether one-tenth of them ever
faw one during the time of their refidence in this country.
In the courfe of ee years experience in the countries

about

NOR THER N “OUCIEDA N.

about Hudfon’s Bay, though I travelled fix hundred miles
to the Weft of the fea-coaft, I never faw but one white
beaver-fkin, and it had many reddifh and brown hairs along
the ridge of the back, and the fides and belly were of a
glofly filvery white. It was deemed by the Indians a
great curiofity ; and I offered three times the ufual price
for a few of them, if they could be got; but in the courfe
of ten years that I remained there afterward, I could
not procure another ; which is a convincing proof there

is no fuch thing as a breed of that kind, and that a vari- —

ation from the ufual colour is very rare.

Black beaver, and that of a beautiful glofs, are not un-
common: perhaps they are more plentiful at Churchill
than at any other Factory in the Bay ; but it is rare to get
more than twelve or fifteen of their fkins in the courfe of

one year’s trade.

Lefranc, as an Indian, muft have known better than
_to have informed Mr. Dobbs that the beaver have from ten
to fifteen young at a time; or if he did, he muft have
deceived him wilfully: for the Indians, by killing them
in all ftages of geftation, have abundant opportunities of
afcertaining the ufual number of their offspring. I have
feen fome hundreds of them killed at the feafons favour-
able for thofe obfervations, and never could difcover more
than fix young in one female, and that only in two in-

i {tances ;

241
177.

December.

242
i7 vi.

December.

A JSON RON IEE 0 ON ar IE:

{tances ; ie the ufual php: as I have before obferved,
is el: two to five.

Befides this unerring method of afcertaining the real
number of young which any animal has at a time, there is

another rule to go by, with refpect to the beaver, which

experience has proved to the Indians never to vary or de-
ceive them, that is by diffeGtion; for on examining the
womb of a beaver, even at a time when not with young,
there is always found a hardifh round knob for every young —
fhe had at the laft litter. . This is a circumftance I have
been particularly careful to examine, and can affirm it
to be true, from real experience.

Moft of the accounts, nay I may fay all the accounts
now extant, refpecting the beaver, are taken from the
authority of the French who have refided in Canada; but
thofe accounts differ fo much from the real ftate and ceco-
nomy of all the beaver to the North of that place, as to leave
ereat room to fufpeé& the truth of them altogether. In
the fitft place, the affertion that they have two doors to
their houfes, one on the land-fide, and the other next the
water, is, as I have before obferved, quite contrary to fac
and common fenfe, as it would render their houfes of no
ufe to them, either as places of fhelter from the incle-
mency of the extreme cold in Winter, or as a retreat from
their common enemy the quiquehatch. The only thing

10 that

NORTHERN OCEAN

that could have made M. Du Pratz, and other French
writers, conjecture that fuch a thing did exift, muft have
been from having feen fome old, beaver-houfes which had
been taken by the Indians; for they are always obliged
to make a hole in one fide of the houfe before they can
drive them out; and it is more than probable that in fo
mild a climate as Canada, the Indians do generally make
thofe holes on the land-fide *, which without doubt gave
rife to the fuggeftion.

In refpe& to the beaver dunging in their houfes, as
fome perfons affert, it is quite wrong, as they always
plunge into the water to do it. I am the better enabled
to make this affertion, from having kept feveral of them
till they became fo domefticated as to anfwer to their name,

and follow thofe to whom they were accuftomed, in the

fame manner as a dog would do; and they were as much
pleafed at being fondled, as any animal I ever faw. Ihad
a houfe built for them, and a {mall piece of water before
the door, into which they always plunged when they
wanted to eafe nature; and their dung being of a light
fubftance, immediately rifes and floats on the furface,

* The Northern Indians think that the fagacity of the beaver dire&ts them to
make that part of their houfe which fronts the North much thicker than any
other part, with a view of defending themfelves from the cold winds which ge-
nerally blow from that quarter during the Winter; and for this reafon the
Northern Indians generally break open that fide of the beaver-houfes which
exactly front the South. :

ii) 2 then

245
L777 he

December.

244
1771.

December.

Ao O UR NO TT Oa et E

then feparates and fubfides to the bottom. When the
Winter fets in fo as to freeze the water folid, they ftill
continue their cuftom of coming out of their houfe, and
dunging and making water on the ice; and when the
weather was fo cold that I was obliged to take them into ©
my houfe, they always went into a large tub of water
which I fet for that purpofe: fo that they made not the
leaft dirt, though they were kept in my own fitting-
toom, where they were the conftant companions of the
Indian women and children, and were fo fond of their
company, that when the Indians were abfent for any con-
fiderable time, the beaver difcovered great figns of un-
eafinefs, and on their return fhewed equal marks of plea-
fure, by fondling on them, crawling into their laps, lay-
ing on their backs, fitting ere&t like a fquirrel, and be-
having to them like children who fee their parents but
feldom. In general, during the Winter they lived on the
fame food as the women did, and were remarkably fond
of rice and plum-pudding: they would eat partridges
and frefh venifon very freely, but I never tried them with
fifh, though I have heard they will at times prey on
them. In fa&, there are few of the granivorous animals
that may not be brought to be carniverous. It is well
known that our domeftic poultry will eat animal food:
thoufands of geefe that come to London market are fat-
tened on tallow-craps; and our horfes in Hudfon’s Bay
would not only eat all kinds of animal food, but alfo
drink freely of the wafh, or pot-liquor, intended for the

| hogs.

INO UR VE-H ER N+ 70vC ELA Ni

hogs. And we are affured by the moft authentic Authors,
that in Iceland, not only black cattle, but alfo the fheep,
are almoft entitely fed on fifh and fith-bones during the
Winter feafon. Even in the Ifles of Orknev, and that in
Summer, the fheep attend the ebbing of the tide as re-
gular as the Efquimaux curlew, and go down to the fhore
which the tide has left, to feed on the fea-weed. This,
however, is through neceflity ; for even the famous Ifland
of Pomona * will not afford them an exiftence above high-

water- mark.

With refpect to the inferior, or flave-beaver, of which
fome Authors fpeak, it is, in my opinion, very difficult
for thofe who are beft acquainted with the economy of
this animal to determine whether there are any that de-
ferve that appellation or not. It fometimes happens, that
a beaver is caught, which has but a very indifferent coat,
and which has broad patches on the back, and fhoulders
almoft wholly without hair. . This is the only foundation
for afferting that there is an inferior, or flave-beaver,
-among them. And when one of the above defcription is
taken, it is perhaps too haftily inferred that the hair is
worn off from thofe parts by carrying heavy loads:
whereas it is moft probable that it is caufed by a diforder
that attacks them fomewhat fimilar to the mange; for

* This being the largeft of the Orkney Iflands, is called by the Inhabitants

the Main Land.
were

ane

~

1771.

December.

246

1771.
(eeeeenenons arena)

December.

A. JOURNEY TO THE

were that falling of of the hair occafioned by perform-
ing extra labour, it is natural to think that inftances of
it would be more frequent than there are ; as it is rare to
fee one of them in the courfe of feven or ten years. I
have feen a whole houfe of thofe animals that had nothing
on the furface of their bodies but the fine foft down; all
the long hairs having molted of. This and every other
deviation from the general run is undoubtedly owing to
fome particular diforder. :

HL A,P.

NOIR EH ER Nov Oov eG) BoA N.

CGC’ AVA PWS

TranfaGions and Remarks from our Arrival on the South
Side of the Athapufcow Lake, till our Arrival at
Prince of Wales’s Fort on Churchill River.

Crofs the Athapufcow Lake.—Defcription of it and its produtions, as far
as could be difcovered in Winter, when the fuow was on the ground. .
fifo found in the lake-—Defcripiion of the buffalo ;—of the moofe or
elk, and the fan of drefing their fkins—Find a woman alone that
had not Jeen a human face for more than feven months.—Her account
bow foe came to be in that fituation ; and her curious method of pro-
curing a livelibosd.—Many of my Indians wrefiled for ber.-—<Arrive
at the Great Athapufcow River.—Walk along the fide of the River for
Jeveral days, and then firike off to the Eaftward.—Difficulty in getting
through the woods in many places.—Meet with fome firange Northern
Indians on their return from the Fort.—Meet more firangers, whom my
companions plundered, and from whom they took one of their young
qwomen-—Curious manner of life which thofe ftrangers lead, and the
-reafon they gave for roving fo far from their ufual refidence.—Leave
the fine level country of the Athapufcows, and arrive at the Stony Hills
of the Northern Indian Country.—Meet fome firange Northern Indians,
one of whom carried a letter for me to Prince of Wales’s Fort, in March
one thoufand feven hundred and Jeventy-one, and now gave me an an=-
fwer io it, dated twentieth of Fune following.—Indians begin preparing
wood-work and birch-rind for canoes.—T he equinottial gale very fevere.
—Indian method of running the moofe deer down by fpced of foot.—
Arrival at Theeleyaza River.—See fome firangers.—The brutality of
my companions.—-A tremendous gale and fuow-drifi.— Meet with more
Strangers s—remarks on it.—Leave all the elderly people and children,

and

248

pagent

een

oth.

A MOU RIN Ba Oo, ras

and proceed direétly to the Fort.—Stop to build canoes, and then advance.
—Several of the Indians die through hunger, and many others are
obliged to decline the journey for want of ammunition.—A violent florm
and inundation, that forced us to the top of a high hill, where we fuf-
fered great diftrefs for more than two days.—Kill feveral deer.—The

Indians method of preferving the flcefh without the affiftance of falt.—
See feveral Indians that were going to Knapp's Bay.—Game of all kinds
remarkably plentiful.—Arrive at the Factory.

A TER _ expending fome days in hunting beaver, we
proceeded to crofs the Athapufcow Lake; but as
we had loft much time in hunting deer and.beaver, which
were very plentiful on fome of the iflands, it was the
ninth of January before we arrived on the South fide.

This lake, from the bel: information which I could get
from the natives, is about one hundred and twenty leagues
long from Eaft to Weft, and twenty wide from North to
South. The point where we croffed it is faid to be the
narroweft. It is full of iflands; moft of which are clothed
with fine tall poplars, birch, and pines, and are well
{ftocked with Indian deer. On fome of the large iflands
we alfo found feveral beaver; but this muft be underftood
only of fuch iflands as had eee ponds in them; for not
one beaver-houfe was to be feen on the margin of any of

them.

The lake is ftored with great quantities of very fine

fifh ; particularly between the iflands, which in fome
parts

To race Page 248

Titaunders seulp =

AWINTER VIEW in the ATHAPUSC OW ILAIKE, by SAM." HEARNE, 1771 »

*

g ! Loondon,Published Jan*1% 1795, by Caiteld ke Davies, Sound.
oe

Hate

MV

ny
iy

N-O RT HE RING 0 GE AN.

parts are fo clole to each other as to form very narrow
channels, like little rivers, in which I found (when
angling for fifh) a confiderable current fetting to the
Eaftward. |

The fith that are common in this lake, as well as in
moft of the other lakes in this country, are pike, trout,
perch, barble, tittameg, and methy; the two laft are
names given by the natives to two fpecies of fifth which

are found only in this country. Befides thefe, we alfo |

caught another kind of fifh, which is faid by the Northern
Indians to be peculiar to this lake; at leaft none of the
fame kind have been met with in any other. The body
of this fifh much refembles a pike in fhape; but the
{cales, which are very large and ftiff, are of a beautifully
bright filver colour: the mouth is large, and fituated
like that of a pike; but when open, much refembles that
of a fturgeon; and though not provided with any teeth,
takes a bait as ravenoufly as a pike or atrout. The fizes
we caught were from two feet long to four feet. Their
flefh, though delicately white, is very foft, and has fo
rank a tafte, that many of the Indians, except they are
in abfolute want, will not eat it. The Northern Indians
call this fifh Shees. The trout in this lake are of the
largeft fize I ever faw: fome that were caught by my
companions could not, I think, be lefs than thirty-five
or forty pounds weight. Pike are alfo of an incredible
fize in this extenfive water; here they are feldom mo-

Kk lefted,

249

1772.
Taman

January.

250

1772.
hee eed

January.

A JOURNEY TO THE

lefted, and have multitudes of fmaller fith to prey upon.
If I fay that I have feen fome of thefe fith that were up-
wards of forty pounds eo I am fure I do not exceed
the truth. :

Immediately on our arrival on the South fide of the

_ Athapufcow Lake, the fcene was agreeably altered, from

an entire jumble of rocks and hills, for fuch is all the
land on the North fide, to a fine level country, in
which there was not a hill to be feen, or a ftone to be
found: fo that fuch of my companions as had not brafs
kettles, loaded their fledges with ftones from fome of the
laft iflands, to boil their vi€tuals with in their birch-rind
kettles, which will not admit of being expofed to the fire.
They therefore heat {tones and drop them into the water
in the kettle to make it boil.

Buffalo, moofe, and beaver were very plentiful; and
we could difcover, in many parts through which we paffed,
the tracks of martins, foxes, quiquehatches, and other:
animals of the furr kind ; fo that they were by no means
{carce: but my companions never gave themfelves the leaft
trouble to catch any of the three laft mentioned animals ;
for the buffalo, moofe, and beaver engaged all their at-
tention ; perhaps principally {fo on account of the excel-
lency of their flefh; whereas the flefh of the fox and qui-
quehatch are never eaten by thofe people, except when
they are in-the greateft diftrefs, and then merely to fave

life.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

life. Their reafons for this thall be given in a fubfequent

part of my Journal.

The buffalo in thofe parts, I think, are in general
much larger than the Englifh black cattle ; particularly
the bulls, which, though they may not in reality be taller
than the largeft fize of the Englifh oxen, yet to me
always appeared to be much larger. In fact, they are fo
heavy, that when fix or eight Indians are in company at
the fkinning of a large bull, they never attempt to turn
it over while entire, but when the upper fide is fkinned,
they cut off the leg and fhoulder, rip up the belly, take
out all the inteftines, cut off the head, and make it as
light as poflible, before they turn it to fkin the under fide.
The fkin is in fome places of an incredible thicknefs, par-
ticularly about the neck, where it often exceeds an inch.
The horns are fhort, black, and almoft ftraight, but very
thick at the roots or bafe.

The head of an old bull is of a great fize and weight
‘indeed: fome which I have feen were fo large, that I
could not without difficulty lift them from the ground * ;

* Jt is remarked by Mr. Catefby, in his defcription of this animal, that no
man can lift one of their heads. ‘Thofe I faw in the Athapufcow country are
fuch as I have defcribed; and I am affured by the Company’s fervants, as well
as the Indians who live near Hudfon’s Houfe, that the buffalos there are much
fmaller; fo that the fpecies Mr. Catefby faw, or wrote of,.muft have been
much larger, or have had very large heads; for it is well known that a man of
any tolerable ftrength can lift two anda half, or three hundred pounds weight.
I think that the heads of his buffalos are too heavy for the bodies, as the bodies
of thofe I faw in the Athapufcow country appear to have been of equal weight

wich his.
Kk 2 but

251

1772.
hee pommel

January.

252

W772i
eee nee |

January.

A JOURNEY TO THE

but the heads of the cows are much fmaller. Their tails
are, in general, about a foot long, though fome appear to
be, exclufive of the long brufh of hair at the end, longer.

The hair on the tails of the bulls is generally of a fine
glofiy black ; but the brufh at the end of the cows’ tails
is always AF a rufty brown, probably owing to being
{tained with their urine.

The hair of the body is foft and curled, fomewhat
approaching to wool; it is generally of a fandy brown,
and of an equal length and thicknefs all over the body :
but on the head and neck it is much longer than it is on
any other part.

_ The Indians,’ after reducing all the parts of the fkin to
an equal thicknefs by fcraping, drefs them in the hair
for clothing; when they are light, foft, warm, and durable.
They alfo drefs fome of thofe fkins into leather without
the hair, of which they make tents and fhoes; but the
grain is remarkably open and fpungy, by no means equal
in goodnefs to that of the fkin of the moofe: nor am I
certain that the curriers or tanners in Europe could manu-
facture thefe fkins in fuch a manner as to render them of
any confiderable value ; for, to appearance, they are of the
fame quality with the fkins of the mufk-ox, which are held
in fo little eftimation in England, that when a number of
them was fent home from Churchill Factory, the Company
iffued out orders the year following, that unlefs they
could be purchafed from the Indians at the rate of four

fkins —

NORTHERN OCEAN,

fkins for one beaver, they would -not anfwer the expence
of fending home; a great proof of their being of eis
little value. |

_ The buffalos chiefly delight in wide open plains, which
in thofe parts produce very long coarfe grafs, or rather a
kind of fmall flags and rufhes, upon which they feed;
but when purfued they always take to the woods. They
are of fuch an amazing ftrength, that when they fly
through the woods from a purfuer, they frequently brufh
down trees as thick as a man’s arm; and be the fnow ever
fo deep, fuch is their ftrength and agility that they are
enabled to plunge through it fafter than the fwifteft Indian
can run in fnow-fhoes. To this I have been an eye-wit-
nefs many times, and once had the vanity to think that I
could have kept pace with them; but though I was at
that time celebrated for being particularly fleet of foot in
{now-fhoes, I foon found that I was no match for the
buffalos, notwithftanding they were then plunging through
fuch deep fnow, that their bellies made a trench in it as
large as if many heavy facks had been hauled through it.
Of all the large beafts in thofe parts the buffalo is eafieft
to kill, and the moofe are the moft difficult ; neither are
the deer very eafy to come at, except in windy weather:
indeed it requires much practice, and a great deal of pa-
tience, to flay any of them, as*they will by no means
fuffer a direét approach, unlefs the hunter be entirely
fheltered by woods or willows. The flefh of the buffalo

2 is

253

1772.
(ren erent

January.

254

1772.
Ce psa

January.

Al. JOUR NIRY TT O RIG |

is exceedingly good eating; and fo entirely free from any
difagreeable fmell or tafte, that it refembles beef as nearly
as poflible: the flefh of the cows, when fome time gone
with calf, is efteemed the fineft; and the young calves,
cut out of their bellies, are reckoned a great delicacy i in-
deed. The hunch on their backs, or more properly on
their fhoulders, is not a large flefhy lump, as fome fuppofe,
but is occafioned by the bones that form the withers being
continued to a greater length than in moft other animals.
The flefh which furrounds this part being fo equally inter-
mixed with fat and lean, is reckoned among the niceft
bits; The weight, however, is by no means equal to
what has been commonly reported. ‘The tongue is alfo
very delicate; and what is moft extraordinary, when
the beafts are in the pooreft ftate, which happens re-
cularly at certain feafons, their tongues are then very fat
and fine; fome fay, fatter than when they are in the
beft order: the truth of which, I will not confirm.

They.are fo efteemed here, however, that many of them
are brought down to the Company’s Factory at York as
prefents, and are efteemed a great luxury, probably for
no other reafon but that they are far-fetched ; for they are
by no means fo large, and I think them not fo fine, asa
neat’s tongue in England.

The moofe deer is alfo a large beaft, often exceeding the
largeft horfe both in height and bulk; but the length of
the legs, the bulk of the body, the thortnefs of the neck,

and

NORTHERN OCEAN.

and the uncommon length of the head and ears, without
any appearance of a tail, make them have a very aukward
appearance. ‘The maies far exceed the females in fize,
and differ from them in colour. The hair of the male,
which is long, hollow, and foft, like that of a deer, is

at the points nearly black, but a little way under the fur-.

face it is of an afh-colour, and at the roots perfeétly white.
The hair of the female is of a fandy brown, and in fome
parts, particularly under the throat, the belly, and the

flank, is nearly white at the furface, and moft delicately

fo at the root.

Their legs are fo Jong, and their necks fo fhort, that
they cannot graze on level ground like other animals, but
are obliged to brouze on the tops of large plants and the
leaves of trees during the Summer; and in Winter they
always feed on the tops of willows, and the {mall branches
of the birch-tree ; on which account they are never found
during that feafon but in fuch places as can afford them a
plentiful fupply of their favourite food: and though they
have no fore-teeth in the upper-jaw, yet I have often feen
willows and {mall birch-trees cropped by them, in the
fame manner as if they had been cut by a gardener’s fheers,

_ though fome of them were not fmaller than common. pipe--

fiems ; they feem particularly partial to the red willow..

In Summer they are generally found to frequent the

banks of rivers and lakes, probably with no other view

than:

255

1772.

January.

256

1772-6
nee etaad

January.

Ai FOUR NEWT © O PME

than to have the benefit of getting into the water, to avoid
the innumerable multitudes of mufkettos and other flies
that pefter them exceedingly during that feafon. There is
alfo a variety of water-plants, of which the moofe are very
fond, and which are adapted to their neceflities in a pecu-
liar manner during the Summer feafon, as they can eafily
brouze on them when nearly emerged in hart. to. avoid
the torment of the flies.

¥£ he heal of the moofe is, as I have obferved, remark-
ably long and large, not very unlike that of. a horfe; but
the nofe and noftrils-are at leaft twice as large. The ears
are about a foot long, and large; and they always ftand
ere. Their faculty of hearing is fuppofed to be more
acute than either their fight or feent ; which makes it very
difficult to kill them, efpecially as the Indians in thofe
parts have no other method of doing it but by creeping
after them, among the trees and bushes, till they get within
oun-fhot; taking care always to Lees to leeward of the
moofe, for fear of being overheard. In Summer, when
they frequent the margins of rivers and lakes, they are
often killed by the Indians in the water, while they are
crofling rivers, or fwimming from the main to iflands, &c.
When purfued in this manner, they are the moft inof-
fenfive of all animals, never making any refiftance; and
the young ones are fo fimple, that I remember to have feen
an Indian paddle his canoe up to one of them, and take
it by the poll without the leaft oppofition: the poor
harmlefs

NORTHERN > @O€ EAN:

harmlefs animal feeming at the fame time as contented
along-fide the canoe, as if {wimming by the fide of its
dam, and looking up in our faces with the fame fearlefs
innocence that a houfe-lamb would, making ufe of its
fore-foot almoft every inftant to clear its eyes of muf-
kettoes, which at that time were remarkably numerous.

I have alfo feen women and boys kill the old moofe
in this fituation, by knocking them on the head with a
hatchet ; and in the Summer of one thoufand feven hun-

dred and feventy-five, when I was on my paflage from

Cumberland Houfe to York Fort, two boys killed a fine
buck moofe in the water, by forcing a ftick up its funda-
ment; for they had neither gun, bow, nor arrows with
them. The common deer are far more dangerous to ap-
proach in canoes, as they kick up their hind legs with fuch
violence as to endanger any birch-rind canoe that comes
within their reach; for which reafon all the Indians who
kill deer upon the water are provided with a long ftick that
will reach far beyond the head of the canoe.

The moofe are alfo the eafieft to tame and domefticate
of any of the deer kind. I have repeatedly feen them at
Churchill as tame as fheep *, and even more fo}; for they

* The moofe formerly fent to his Majefty was from that place. A young
male was alfo put on board the fhip, but it died on the paflage, otherwife it
is probable they might have propagated in this country.

L 1 would

258

1772.
(arenes amen}

January.

A, JOURNEY ) TO) PAVE

would follow their keeper any diftance from home, and
at his call return with him, without the leaft trouble, or
ever offering to deviate from the path *.

‘The fiefh of the moofe is very good, though the grain

is but coarfe, and it is much tougher than any other kind

of venifon. The nofe is moft excellent, as is alfo the
tongue, though by no means fo fat and delicate as that of
the common deer. It is perhaps worth remarking, that
the livers of the moofe are never found, not even at any
time of the year; and, like the other deer, they have no
gall. The fat of the inteftines is hard, like fuet; but all
the. external fat is foft, like that. of.a breaft of mutton,
and when put into a bladder, is as fine as marrow. In
this they differ from all the other fpecies of deer, of which
the external fat is as hard as that of the kidnies.

* Since the above was written, the fame Indian that brought all the above-
mentioned young moofe to the Factory had, in the year 1777, two others, fo
tame, that when on his paflage to Prince of Wales’s Fort in a canoe, the moofe
always followed him along the bank of the river; and at night, or on any other
occafion when the Indians landed, the young moofe generally came and fondled
onthem, inthe fame manner as the moft domeftic animal would have done, and
never offered to {tray from the tents. Unfortunately, in crofling a deep bay in
one of the lakes, (on a fine day,) all the Indians that were not interefted in the
fafe-landing of thofe engaging creatures, paddled from point to point; and the
man that owned them, not caring to go fo far about by himfelf, accompanied
the others, in hopes they would follow him round as ufual; but at night the
young moofe did not arrive; and as the howling of fome wolves was heard
in that quarter, it was fuppofed they had been devoured by them, as they were
never afterward feen.

q The

AN O ROD EcR NN’ eOVC.E IA N:

‘The moofe in all their a€tions and attitudes appear
very uncouth, and when difturbed, never run, only make
a kind of trot, which the length of their legs enables them
to do with great {wiftnefs, and apparently with much eafe ;
but were the country they inhabit free from under-woed,
and dry under-foot, fo that horfemen and dogs might
follow them, they would become an ealy prey, as they
are both tender-footed and fhort-winded: But of this
more hereafter *.

The fkins of the moofe, when drefled by the na-
tives, make excellent tent-covers and fhoe-leather; and
in faét every other part of their clothing. Thefe, like
the fkins of the buffalo, are of very unequal thicknefs.
Some of the Indian women, who are acquainted with
the manufacture of them, will, by means of {craping,
render them as even as a piece of thick cloth, and when
well drefled they are very foft; but not being dreffed in
oil, they always grow hard after being wet, unlefs great
care be taken to keep rubbing them all the time they are
drying. ‘The fame may be faid of all the Indian-dreffed
leather, except that of the wewafkith, which will wath as
well as fhammoy-leather, and always preferve its foftnefs.

* Mr. Du Pratz, in his defcription of this animal, fays, it is never found
farther North than Cape Breton and Nova Scotia; but I have feen them in
great numbers in the Athapufcow Country, which cannot be much fhort of 60°
North latitude.

Eiike The

259

19772, °
een ened

january.

260

Lye).

January.

Alo J OUR NW oe 'O) rn F

The female moofe never have any horns, but the males
have them of a prodigious fize and weight, and very dif-
ferent in fhape from thofe of the common deer. The
extremity of each horn is palmated to the fize of a com-
mon fhovel, from which a few fhort branches fhoot out ;

- and the fhaft of the horn is frequently as large as a com-—

mon man’s wrift. They fhed them annually like the com-
mon deer. The horns of the moofe are frequently found
to exceed fixty pounds weight ; and their texture, though
of a large fize and of fuch rapid growth, is much harder
than any other fpecies of deer-horns in thofe parts. —

Though the flefh of the moofe is efteemed by moft
Indians both for its favour and fubftance, yet the North-
ern Indians of my crew did not reckon either it or the
fleth of the buffalo fubftantial food. This I fhould think
entirely proceeded from prejudice, efpecially with refpe&
to the moofe; but the flefh of the buffalo, though fo fine
to the eye, and pleafing to the tafte, is fo light and eafy
of digeftion, as not to be deemed fubftantial food by any
Indian in this country, either Northern or Southern.
The moofe have from one to three young at a time, and
generally bring them forth in the latter mi of April, or
beginning of May.

Soon after our arrival on the South-fide of Athapufcow
Lake, Matonabbee propofed continuing our courfe in the
South

NORTHERN OCEAN

South Weft quarter, in hopes of meeting fome of the
Athapufcow Indians; becaufe I wifhed, if poffible, to
purchafe a tent, and other ready-drefled {kins from them ;
as a fupply of thofe articles would at this time have been
of material fervice to us, being in great want both of tents
and fhoe-leather: and though my companions were daily
killing either moofe or buffalo, the weather was fo ex-
-ceflively cold, as to render dreffing their fkins not only
very troublefome, but almoft impracticable, efpecially to
the generality of the Northern Indians, who are not

well acquainted with the manufacture of that kind of

leather.

To drefs thofe fkins according to the Indian method, a
lather is made of the brains and fome of the fofteft fat or
marrow of the animal, in which the fkin is well foaked,
when it is taken out, and not only dried by the heat of a
fire, but hung up in the fmoke for feveral days; it is then
taken down, and well foaked and wafhed in warm water,
till the grain of the fkin is perfe@ly open, and has imbibed
a fufficient quantity of water, after which it is taken out
and wrung as dry as poflible, and then dried by the heat
of a flow fire; care being taken to rub and ftretch it as
long as any moifture remains in the fkin. By this fimple
method, and by fcraping them afterwards, fome of the
moote {kins are made very delicate both to the eye and the

touch.
On

261

1772.
Lemna

. January.

262

1772.
(open emcees

January
tith.

A AJSOOUDR NOREY) (OND ME

On the eleventh of January, as fome of my companions
were hunting, they faw the track of a ftrange fnow-fhoe,
which they followed; and at a confiderable diftance came
to a little hut, where they difcovered a young woman
fitting alone. As they found that fhe underftood their

language, they brought her with them to the tents. On

examination, fhe proved to be one of the Weftern Dog-
ribbed Indians, who had been taken prifoner by the Atay
pufcow Indians in the Summer of one thoufand feven
hundred and feventy ; and in the following Summer, when
the Indians that took her prifoner were near this part, fhe
had eloped from them, with an intent to return to her own
country; but the diftance being fo great, and having,
after fhe was taken prifoner, ae ae in a canoe the
whole way, the turnings and windings of the rivers and
lakes were fo numerous, that fhe forgot the track; fo the
built the hut in which we found her, to proteé& her from ©
the weather during the Winter, and here fhe had refided
from the firft fetting in of the fall.

From her account of the moons paft fince her elope+
ment, it appeared that fhe had been near feven months
without feeing a human face; during all which time the
had fupported herfelf very well by fnaring partridges,
rabbits, and fquirrels; fhe had alfo killed two or three
beaver, and fome porcupines. ‘That fhe did not feem to
have been in want is evident, as fhe had a {mall flock of

provifions

MA

NOUR PCRMTE. Ry Ny mOnCihy A) N.

provifions by her when fhe was difcovered ; and was in
sood health and condition, and I think one of the fneft
women, of areal Indian, that I have feen in any part of
North America.

The methods practifed by this poor creature to procure
a livelihood were truly admirable, and are great proofs
that neceflity is the real mother of invention. When
the few deer-finews that fhe had an opportunity of taking

with her were all expended in making f{nares, and fewing

her clothing, fhe had nothing to fupply their place but
the finews of the rabbits legs and feet; thefe fhe twifted
together for that purpofe with great dexterity and fucceis.
The rabbits, &c. which fhe caught in thofe f{nares, not
only furnifhed her with a comfortable fubfiftence, but of
the fkins fhe made a fuit of neat and warm clothing
for the Winter. _ It is fcarcely poflible to conceive that
a perfon in her forlorn fituation could be fo compofed as
to be capable of contriving or executing any. thing that was
not abfolutely neceffary to her exiftence; but there were
fufficient proofs that fhe had extended her care much far-
ther, as all her clothing, befide being calculated for real
fervice, fhewed great tafte, and exhibited no little variety
of ornament. The materials, though rude, were very curi-
oufly wrought, and fo judicioufly placed, as to make the
whole of her garb have a very pleafing, though rather ro-
mantic appearance.

Her

263
1772.

January.

264

1772.
Qoeeeen aera!

January.

A JOURNEW TO HE

Her leifure hours from hunting had been employed
in twifting the inner rind or bark of willows into {mall
lines, like net-twine, of which fhe had fome hundred
fathoms by her ; with this fhe intended to make a fifhing-
net as foon as the Spring advanced. It is of the inner
bark of willows, twifted in this manner, that the Dog-
ribbed Indians make their fifhing-nets; and they are much
perferable to thofe made by the Northern Indians *.

Five or fix inches of an iron hoop, made into a knife,
and the fhank of an arrow-head of iron, which ferved-her
as an awl, were all the metals this poor woman had with
her when fhe eloped ; and with thefe implements fhe had

made herfelf complete fnow-fhoes, and feveral other ufeful
articles. )

Her method of making a fire was equally fingular and
curious, having no other materials for that purpofe than two
hard fulphurous ftones. Thefe, by long friétion and hard
knocking, produced a few fparks, which at length commu-

‘nicated to fome touchwood; but as this method was attend-

ed with great trouble, and not always with fuccefs, fhe did

* The Northern Indians make their fifhing-nets with fmall thongs cut from
raw deer-fkins; which when dry appear very good, but after being foaked
in water fome time, grow fo foft and flippery, that when large fith ftrike the
net, the hitches are very apt to flip and let them efcape. Befide this incon-
venience, they are very liable to rot, unlefs they be frequently taken out of the
water and dried.

not

NORTHERN OCEAN.

not fuffer her fire to go out all the Winter. Hence we
may conclude that fhe had no idea of producing fire by
_ frition, in the manner pradtifed by the Efquimaux, and
many other uncivilized nations; becaufe if fhe had, the
above-mentioned precaution would have been unneceffary.

The fingularity of the circumftance, the comelinefs of
her perfon, and ‘her‘approved accomplifhments, occafioned
_aftrong conteft between feveral'‘of the Indians of my party,
who fhould have her for a wife; and the poor girl was ac-

tually won and loft at wreftling by near half a {core dif-

ferent men the fame-evening. My guide, Matonabbee, who
at that time had no lefs than feven wives, all women grown,
befides a young girl of eleven or twelve years old, would
have put in for the prize alfo, had not one of his wives
made him afhamed of it, by telling ‘him that he had al-
ready more wives than ‘he could properly attend. This
piece of fatire, however true, proved fatal to the poor
girl who dared ‘to make fo open:a declaration ; for the great
man, Matonabbee, who would willingly have been thought
equal to eight or ten men in every refpeG, took it as fuch
an affront, that she fell on her with both hands and feet,
and bruifed her to fuch a degree, that after lingering fome
time fhe died.

When the Athapufcow Indians took the above Dog-
ribbed Indian woman prifoner, they, according to the uni-
verfal cuftom of thofe favages, furprifed her and her party in

M m the

265

1772.

January.

266

1772.

January.

Al JOUR NERS #ontTar

i |
the night, and killed every foul in the tent, except herfelf

and three other young women. Among thofe whom they
killed, were her father, mother, and hufband. Her young
child, four or five months old, the concealed in a bundle
of clothing, and took with her undifcovered in the night ;

but when fhe arrived at the place where the Athapufcow

Indians had left their wives, (which was not far diftant,)
they began to examine her bundle, and finding the child,
one of the women took it from her, and killed it on

the f{pot.

This laft piece of barbarity gave her fuch a difguft to
thofe Indians, that notwithftanding the man who took
care of her treated her in every refpect as his wife, and
was, fhe faid, remarkably kind to, and even fond of her ;
fo far was fhe from being able to reconcile herfelf to any
of the tribe, that fhe rather chofe to expofe herfelf to
mifery and want, than live in eafe and affluence among
perfons who had fo cruelly murdered her infant *, The

poor

* It is too common a cafe with moft of the trtbes of Southern Indians for
the women to defire their hufbands or friends, when going to war, to bring
them a flave, that they may have the pleafure of killing it; and fome of thefe

inhuman women will accompany their- hufbands, and murder the wamen and.
children as faft as their hufbands do the men..

When I was at Cumberland Houfe, (an inland feerlement that I eftablifthed:
for the Hudfon’s Bay Company in the year 17745): I. was particularly ac-
quainted with a very young lady of this extraordinary turn; who, when I defired
fome Indians that were* going to war to bring me a young flave, which |
intended to have brought up as a. domettic,. Mis was equally defirous that one

might.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

poor eeeaais «elation of this fhocking ftory, which fhe
delivered in a very affecting manner, only excited laughter
among the favages of my party.

In a converfation with this woman foon afterward, fhe
told us, that her country lies fo far to the Weftward, that
fhe had never feen iron, or any other kind of metal, till fhe
was taken prifoner. All of her tribe, fhe obferved, made
their hatchets and ice-chifels of deer’s horns, and their

knives of ftones and bones; that their arrows were fhod

with a kind of flate, bones, and deer’s horns; and the
inftruments which they employed to make their wood-
work were nothing but beavers’ teeth. Though they
had frequently heard of the ufeful materials which the
nations or tribes to the Eaft of them were fupplied with
from the Englifh, fo far were they from drawing nearer,

to be in the way of trading for iron-work, &c. that they

were obliged to retreat farther back, to avoid the Atha-
pufcow Indians, who made furprifing flaughter among
them, both in Winter and Summer.

On the fixteenth, as we were continuing our courfe in
the South Weft quarter, we arrived at the grand Atha-

might be brought to her, for the cruel purpofe of murdering it. It is
{carcely poffible to exprefs my aftonifhment, on hearing fuch an extraordinary
requeft made by a young creature fcarcely fixteen years old; however, as
foon as I recovered from my furprife, I ordered her to leave the fettlement,
which fhe did, with thofe who were going to war; and it is therefore probable
fhe might not be difappointed in her requeft. The next year I was ordered to
the command of Prince of Wales’s Fort, and therefore never faw her afterward.

Mm 2 puflcow

267 -

1772.
Saeed

January.

16th.

268

1.7 7 Qe
En ame

January.

A JOURNEY TO THE

pufcow River, which at that part is about two miles
wide, and empties itfelf into the great lake of the fame
name we had fo lately crofled, and which has been al-
ready defcribed.

- The woods about this river, particularly the pines and
ssa, are the talleft and ftouteft I have feen in any part
of North America. The birch alfo grows to a confider-
able fize, and fome f{pecies of the willow are likewife tall ;
but none of them have any trunk, like thofe in England.

The bank of the river in moft parts is very high, and
in fome places not lefs than a hundred feet above the or-
dinary furface of the water. As the foil is of a loamy
quality, it is very fubje&t to moulder or wafh away by
heavy rains, even during the fhort Summer allotted to this
part of the globe. The breaking up of the ice in the
Spring is annually attended with a great deluge, when, Tam
told, it is not uncommon to fee whole points of land wafhed.
away by the inundations ; and as the wood grows clofe to
the edge of the banks, vaft quantities of it are hurried
down the ftream by the irrefiftible force of the water and
ice, and conveyed into the great lake already mentioned ; on
the fhores and iflands of which, there lies the greateft quan-
tity of drift wood Tever faw. Some of this wood is large
‘enough to make mafts for the largeft fhips that are built.
The banks of the river in general are fo fteep as to be in-
acceffible to either man or beaft, except in fome flacks, or
gulleys, that have been wore down by heavy rains, back-

waters,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

waters, or deluges ; and even thofe flacks are, for the moft
part, very difficult to afcend, on account of the number
of large trees which lie in the way.

There are feveral low iflands in this river, which are
much frequented by the moofe, for the fake of the
fine willows they produce, which furnifh them with a
plentiful fupply of their favourite food during the Winter.
Some of thofe iflands are alfo frequented by a number of

rabbits ; but as larger game could be procured in great

plenty, thofe {mall animals were not deemed worthy our
notice at prefent.

Befide the grand river already mentioned, there are fe-
veral others of lefs note, which empty themfelves into the
oreat Athapufcow Lake: There are alfo feveral {mall
rivers and creeks on the North Eaft fide of the Lake that
carry. off the fuperfluous waters, fome of which, after a
variety of windings through the barren grounds to the
North of Churchill River, are loft in the marfhes and low
grounds, while others, by means of many fmall chan-
nels and rivulets, are difcharged into other rivers and
lakes, and at laft, douwbtlefs, find their way into Hudfon’s
Bay. Thefe rivers, though numberlefs, are all fo full of
fhoals and ftones, as not to be navigable for an Indian
canoe to any confiderable diftance; and if they were, it
would be of little or no ufe to the natives, as none
of them lead within feveral hundred miles of Churchill
River, |

-Agree-

269

"17726
beeen)

January.
>

270

Og 7 OM
January.

*

27th.

A JOURNE MIT O) Tie

Agreeably to Matonabbee’s propofal, we continued our
courfe up the Athapufcow River for many days, and
though we pafled feveral parts which we well knew to
have been the former Winter-haunts of the Athapufcow
Indians, yet we could not fee the leaft trace of any of
them having been there that feafon. In the preceding Sum-
mer, when they were in thofe parts, they had fet fire to
the woods; and though many months had elapfed from

that time till our arrival there, and notwithftanding the

{now was then very deep, the mofs was ftill burning in
many places, which at firft deceived us very much, as
we took it for the {moke of ftrange tents ; but after going

much out of our way, and fearching very diligently, we

could not difcover the leaft track of a ftranger.

Thus difappointed in our expectations of meeting the
Southern Indians, it was refolved (in Council, as it may be
called) to expend as much time in hunting buffalo, moofe,
and beaver as we could, fo that we might be able to reach
Prince of Wales’s Fort a little before the ufual time of
the fhips arrival from England. Accordingly, after having ~
walked upwards of forty miles by the fide of Athapufcow
River, on the twenty-feventh of January we ftruck off
to the Eaftward, and left the River at that part where it
begins to tend due South.

In confequence of this determination of the Indians,
we continued our courfe to the Eaftward; but as game
of all kinds was very plentiful, we made but fhort days

journies,

NO WF HE RING | OuC E ALN.

journies, and often remained two or three days in one
place, to eat up the {poils or produce of the chace. The
woods through which we were to pafs were in many places
fo thick, that it was neceflary to cut a path before the
women could pafs with their {ledges ; and in other places
fo much of the woods had formerly been fet on fare and
burnt, that we were frequently obliged to walk farther
than we otherwife fhould have done, before we could find
green brufh enough to floor our tents.

From the fifteenth to the twenty-fourth of February,

we walked along a fmall river that empties itfelf into
the Lake Clowey, near the part where we built canoes
in May one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-one.
This little river is that which we mentioned in the
former part of this Journal, as having communication
with the Athapufcow Lake: but, from appearances, it is
of no confequence whence it takes its rife, or where it
empties itfelf, as one half of it.is nearly dry three-fourths
of the year. The intervening ponds, however, having fuf-
ficient depth of water, are, we may fuppofe, favourable
fituations for beaver, as many of their houfes are to be
found in thofe parts.

On the twenty-fourth, a ftrange N orthern Indian leader,
called Thlew-fa-nell-ie, and feveral of his followers, joined
us from the Eaftward. This leader prefented Matonabbee

and myfelf with a foot of tobacco each, and a two-quart

kee

271

LAR

January,

February
r5th—24th,

2ith.

1272

r77 2

aarti

A JOURNEY TO THE

keg of brandy, which he intended as a prefent for the
Southern Indians; but being informed by my companions,
_ that there was not the leaft probability of meeting any, he
did not think it worth any farther carriage. The tobacco
was indeed very acceptable, as our ftock of that article
had been expended fome time. Having been fo long with-
out tafting {pirituous liquors, I would not partake of the
brandy, but left it entirely to the Indians, to whom,
as they were numerous, it was fcarcely a tafte for each.
Few of the Northern Indians are fond of fpirits, efpecially
thofe who keep at a-diftance from the Fort: fome who
are near, and who ufually fhoot geefe for us in the Spring,
will drink it at free coft as faft as the Southern Indians,
but few of them are ever fo imprudent as to buy it.

The little river lately mentioned, as well as the adjacent
lakes and ponds, being well-ftocked with beaver, and the
land abounding with moofe and buttalo, we were induced
to make but flow progrefs in our journey. Many days
were {pent in hunting, feafting, and drying a large quan-
tity of flefh to take with us, particularly that of the buf-
falo; for my companions knew by experience, that a few
days walk to the Eaftward of our prefent fituation would
bring us to a part where we fhould not fee any of thofe
animals.

The ftrangers who had joined us on the twenty-fourth
informed us, that all were well at Prince of Wales’s Fort
13 when |

NORTHERN OCEAN. 253

when ole left it laft; which, according to their account 1772.
of the Moons paft rod muft have been about the fifth panne
of November one thoufand feven hundred and feventy=
one. Thefe ftrangers only remained in our company one
night before the Leader and part of his crew left us, and
proceeded on their journey to the North Weftward; but
a few of them having procured fome furrs in the itty part
of the Winter, joined our party, with an intent to accom-
pany us to the Factory.

Having a good ftock of dried meat, fat, ec. prepared -
in the beft manner for carriage, on the twenty-eighth we ash.
-fhaped our courfe in the South Eaft quarter, and pro-
ceeded at a much greater rate than we had lately done,
as little or no time was now loft in hunting. The next
day we faw the tracks of fome ftrangers ; and though I did
not perceive any of them myfelf, fome of my companions
were at the trouble of fearching for them, and finding
them to be poor inoffenfive people, plundered them not
only of the few furrs which they had, but took alfo one

of their young women from them.

Every additional act of violence committed by my com-
panions.on the poor and diftrefied, ferved to increafe my
indignation and diflike; this laft ad, however, difpleafed
me more than all their former actions, becaufe it was com-
mitted on a fet of harmlefs creatures, whofe general man-
ner of life renders them the moft fecluded from fociety of

any of the human race. |
No Matonabbee

274

L772.

Ay FOUR NEW 2 TO Bran

Matonabbee affured me, that for more than a generation

February. paft one family only, as it may be called, (and to which

the young men belonged who were plundered by my com-
panions,) have taken up their Winter abode in thofe
woods, which are fituated fo far on the barren ground

as to be quite out of the track of any other Indians.

From the beft accounts that I could colle&,. the latitude
of this place muft be about 632°, or 63° at leaft; the
longitude is very uncertain. From my own experience
Ican affirm, that it is fome hundreds of miles both
from the .fea-fide and the main woods to the Weftward.
Few of the trading Northern Indians have vifited this
place ; but thofe who have, give a pleafing defcription of
it, all agreeing that it is fituated on the banks of a river
which has communication with feveral fine lakes. As
the current fets to the North Eaftward, it empties itfelf,
in all probability, into fome part of Hudfon’s Bay ; and,
from the latitude, no part feems more likely for this com-
munication, than Baker’s Lake, at the head of Chefter-
field’s inlet. This, however, is mere conjecture; nor
is it of any confequence, as navigation on any of the
rivers in thofe parts is not only impracticable, but would
be alfo unprofitable, as they do not lead into a country
that produces any thing for trade, or that contains any
inhabitants, worth vifiting.

The accounts given of this place, and the manner of
life of its inhabitants, would, if related at full length,
filla volume: let it fuffice to obferve, that the fituation >

| 18

NORTHERN OCEAN.

is faid to be remarkably favourable for every kind of game
that the barren ground produces at the different feafons
of the year; but the continuance of the game with
them is in general uncertain, except that of fifh and par-
tridges. That being the cafe, the few who compofe this
little commonwealth, are, by long cuftom and the conftant
example of their forefathers, pofiefled of a provident turn
of mind, with a degree of frugality unknown to every
other tribe of Indians in this country except the Ef
quimaux.

Deer is faid to vifit this part of the country in afto-
nifhing numbers, both in Spring and Autumn, of which
circumftances the inhabitants avail themfelves, by killing
and drying as much of their flefh as poffible, particularly
in the fall of the year; fo that they feldom are in want
of a good Winter’s ftock.

Geefe, ducks, and fwans vifit here in great plenty
during their migrations both in the Spring and Fall, and
by much art, joined to an infurmountable patience, are
caught in confiderable numbers in {nares *, and, with-

out

* To fnare {wans, geefe, or ducks, in the water, it requires no other procefs
than to make a number of hedges, or fences, project into the water, at
right angles, from the banks of ariver, lake, or pond; for it is obferved that
thofe birds generally {wim near the margin, for the benefit of feeding on the
erafs, &c. Thofe fences are continued for fome diftance from the fhore,
and feparated two or three yards from each other, fo that openings are
left fufficiently large to let the birds fwim through, In each of thofe open-

Nn 2 ings

275

1772.
eee pareve

February.

276

17726
Saeed

February.

A JOURNEY TO THE
out doubt, make a very pleafing change in the food. It.
is alfo reported, (though I confefs I doubt the truth of it,)

ings a fnare is hung and faftened to a ftake, which the bird, when intangled,
cannot drag from the bottom; and to prevent the fnare from being wafted out
of its proper place by the wind, it is fecured to the’ ftakes which form the.

opening, with tender grafs, which is eafily broken.

This method, though it has the appearance of being very fimple, is never-
thelefs attended with much trouble, particularly when we confider the {mall-
nefs of their canoes, and the great inconveniency they labour under in per-
forming works of this kind in the water. Many of the ftakes ufed on thofe
occafions are of a confiderable length and fize, and the fmall branches which,
form the principal part of the hedges, are not arranged without much caution,
for fear of overfetting the canoes, particularly where the water is deep, as it
is in fome of the lakes; and in many of the rivers the current is very {wift,.
which renders this bufinefs equally troublefome. When the lakes and rivers.
are fhallow, the natives are frequently at the pains to make fences from fhore
to fhore.

To fnare thofe birds in their nefts requires a confiderable degree of art,
and, as the natives fay, a great deal of cleanlinefs; for they have obferved,.
that when fnares have been fet by thofe whofe hands were not clean, the birds.
would not go into the neft. |

Even the goofe, though fo fimple a bird, is notorioufly known to forfake
her eggs, if they are breathed on by the Indians.

The {maller fpecies of birds which make their neft in the ground, are by no:
means fo delicate, of courfe leis care is neceffary to fnare them. It has been:
obferved that all birds which build in the ground go into their neft at one par-
‘ticular fide, and out of it on the oppofite. The Indians, thoroughly convinced:
of this, always fet the {nares on the fide on which the bird enters the neft ;.
and if care be taken in fetting them, feldom fail of feizing their object.
For {mall birds, fuch as larks, and many others of equal fize, the Indians
only ufe two or three hairs out of their head; but.for larger birds, particu-
larly fwans, geefe, and ducks, they make fnares of deer-finews, twifted like
packthread, and occafionally of a fmall thong cut from a parchment deer-
ikin,

I that —

NORTHERN: OCEAN

that a remarkable {pecies of partridges as large as Englifh
fowls, are found in that part of the country only. Thofe,
as well as the common partridges, it is faid, are killed in
confiderable numbers, with fnares, as well as with bows

and arrows.

The river and lakes near the little foreft where the
family above mentioned had fixed their abode, abound with
fine fith, particularly trout and barble, which are eafily
caught; the former with hooks, and the latter in nets. In

fact, I have not feen or heard of ‘any part of this country

which feems to poffefs half the advantages requifite for a
conftant refidence, that are afcribed to this little fpot.
The defcendents, however, of the prefent inhabitants muft

in time evacuate it for want of wood, which is of fo flow

a growth in thofe regions, that what is ufed in one year,
exclufive of what is cut down and carried away by the
Efquimaux, muft coft many years to replace.

It may probably be thought ftrange that any part of a
community, apparently fo commodiouifly fituated, and
happy within themfelves, fhould be found at fo great a
diftance from the reft of their tribe, and indeed nothing
but neceflity could poflibly have urged them to undertake a
journey of fo many hundred miles as they have done; but:
no fituation is without its inconveniences, and as their
woods contain no birch-trees of fufficient fize, or per-—

haps none of any fize, this party had come fo far to: the
Welt

iit

‘T7728
February.. 3

278

1772.
| ee |
February.

A JOURNEY) TO THF

Weltward to procure birch-rind for making two canoes,
and fome of the fungus that grows on the outfide of
the birch-tree, which is ufed by all the Indians in
thofe parts for tinder. There are two forts of thefe fun-
gufes which grow on the birch-trees ; oneis hard, the ufe-
ful part of which much refembles rhubarb; the other
is foft and {mooth like velvet on the outfide, and when
laid on hot afhes for fome time, and well beaten be-
tween two ftones, is fomething like fpunk. The former
is called by the Northern Indians Jolt-thee, and is known
all over the country bordering on Hudfon’s Bay by the
name of Pefogan *, it being fo called by the Southern In-

* The Indians, both Northern and Southern, have found by experience,
that by boiling the pefoganin water for a confiderable time, the texture is fo
much improved, that when thoroughly dried, fome parts of it will be nearly
as foft as fpunge.

Some of thofe fungufes are as large as a man’s head; the outfide, which is
very hard and black, and much indented with deep cracks, being of no ufe,
is always chopped off with a hatchet. Befides the two forts of touchwood al-
ready mentioned, there is another kind of it in thofe parts, that I think is in-
finitely preferable to either. This is found in old decayed poplars, and lies in
flakes of various fizes and thicknefs; fome is not thicker than fhamoy leather,
others are as thick as a fhoe-fole. This, like the fungus of the birch-tree, is
always moift when taken from the tree, but when dry, itis very foft and flex-
ible, and takes fire readily from the fpark of a fteel; but it is much improved by
being kept dry in a bag that has contained gunpowder. It is rather furprifing
that the Indians, whofe mode of life I have juft been defcribing, have never
acquired the method of making fire by friction, like the Efquimaux. It is
alfo equally furprifing that they do not make ufe of fkin-canoes. Probably
deer-fkins cannot be manufactured to withftand the water; for it is well known
that the Efquimaux ufe always feal-fkins for that purpofe, though they are in
the habit of killing great numbers of deer, :

dians.

NORTHERN OCEAN.

dians. The latter is only ufed by the Northern tribes,
and is called by them Clalte-ad-dee.

By the firft of March we began to leave the fine level
country of the Athapufcows, and again to approach the
{tony mountains or hills which bound the Northern In-
dian country. Moofe and beaver ftill continued to he
plentiful ; but no buffaloes could be feen after the twenty
ninth of February. :

As we were continuing our courfe to the Eaft South
Eaft, on the fourteenth we difcovered the tracks of more
ftrangers, and the next day came up with them. Among
thofe Indians was the man who had carried a letter for me
in March one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-one, to
the Chief at Prince of Wales’s Fort, and to which he had
brought an anfwer, dated the twenty-firft of June. When
this Indian received the letter from me, it was very un-+
certain what route we fhould take in our return from the
Copper River, and, in all probability, he himfelf had
not then determined on what fpot he would pafs the
prefent Winter; confequently our meeting each other was
merely accidental. |

Thefe Indians having obtained a few furrs in the courfe
of the Winter, joined our party, which now confifted
of twenty tents, containing in the whole about two hun-

dred.

279

4772
March.

1h.

I Aths

280

1772,
r }
March.

16th.

AVJOURNEWR HO THe
dred perfons ; and indeed our company had not _ much

lefs during the whole Winter.

From the ftrangers who laft joined us we received fome
ready-drefled moofe-fkins for tenting and fhoe-leather;

-alfo fome other fkins for clothing, for all of which the

Chief at the Factory was to pay on our arrival.

I cannot fufficiently lament the lofs of my quadrant, as
the want of it muft render the courfe of my journey
from Point Lake, where it was broken, very uncertain ;
and my watch ftopping while I was at the Ab hanaten®
Lake, has contributed greatly to the misfortune, as I am
now deprived of every means of eftimating the diftances
which we walked with ‘any degree of accuracy, particu-
larly in thick weather, when the Sun could not be f{een.

The Indians were employed at all convenient times
in procuring birch-rind and making wood work ready
for building canoes; alfo in preparing {mall ftaffs of
birch-wood, to take with them on the barren ground,
to ferve as tent-poles all the Summer; and which, as
hath been already. obferved, they convert into fnow-
fhoe frames when the Winter fets in. Here it may
be proper to obferve, that none of thofe incidental avo-
cations interfere with, or retard the Indians in their

journey; for they always take the advantage of every op-
portunity

NORTHERN OCEAN.

portunity which offers, as they pafs along, and when they
fee a tree fit for their purpofe, cut it down, and either
firip off the bark, if that be what they want, or fplit the
trunk in pieces; and after hewing it roughly with their

hatchet, carry it to the tent, where in the evenings, or in

the morning before they fet out, they reduce it with their
knives to the fhape and fize which is required.

Provifions being plentiful, and the weather fine, we
advanced a little each day; and on the nineteenth took up
our lodgings by the fide of Wholdyeah-chuck’d Whoie,
or Large Pike Lake. In our way we croffed another {mall
lake, where we caught fome trout by angling, and killed
a few deer and one moofe.

On the twentieth we croffled Large Pike Lake, which
at that part was not more than feven miles wide ; but from
North North Weft to the South South Eaft is much longer.
The next day we arrived at Bedodid Lake, which in ge-
neral is not more than three miles wide, and in feveral
places much lefs; but it is upward of forty miles long,

which gives it the appearance of ariver. It is faid by the |
Indians to be fhut up on all fides, and entirely fur- .

rounded with high land, which produces vaft quantity
of fir trees, but none of them grow to a great height in
thofe parts: their branches, however, fpread wider than
thofe of firs of three times their height and thicknefs do
in Europe; fo that they refemble an apple-tree in fhape,

| Oo more

281

1772.
ee eed

March.

Toth.

20th,

282 AV POORNEW FO) Mae

1772. more than any. fpecies of the pine. They feem rich in
Mant? tar, as the wood of them will burn like a candle, and
emit as ftrong a {mell, and as much black fmoke, as the
ftaves cf an old tar-barrel; for which reafon no Indians
chufe to burn it in their tents, or even out of doors, for
the purpofe of cooking their victuals.

‘The diaws began now to be very confiderable, and the
under-woods were fo thick in thefe parts as to render tra-
velling through them very difficult ; we therefore took the
advantage of walking on the ice of the above-mentioned
Lake, which lay nearly in the dire@tion of our courfe ;.
but after proceeding about twenty-two miles on it, the
Lake turned more toward the North, on which account
we were obliged to leave it, ftriking off to the Eaftward ;
and after walking fourteen miles farther, we arrived at
Noo-fhetht Whoie, or the Hill-Ifland Lake, fo called from: -
a very high ifland which ftands in it. ;

gift. From the twenty-eighth to the thirty-firft of March,
we had fo hard a'gale of wind from the South, as to ren-
der walking on lakes or open plains quite impoflible, and
the violence with which the trees were blown down made
walking in the woods fomewhat dangerous; but though
feveral had narrow efcapes, no accident happened.

op From the middle to the latter end of March, and in
' the beginning of April, though the thaw was not general,
7 | yet

NORTHERN OCEAN.

yet in the middle of the day it was very confiderable: it
commonly froze hard in the nights; and the young men
took the advantage of the mornings, when the fnow was
hard crufted over, and ran down many moofe ;. for in thofe
fituations a man with a good pair of fnow-fhoes will
{carcely make any impreflion on the fnow, while the
moofe, and even the deer, will break through it at every
{tep up to the belly. Notwithftanding this, however, it is
very feldom that the Indians attempt to run deer down.
The moofe are fo tender-footed, and fo fhort-winded, that
a good runner will generally tire them in lefs than a day,
and very frequently in fix or eight hours; though I have
known fome of the Indians continue the chace for two
days, before they could come up with, and kill the game.
On thofe occafions the Indians, in general, only take with
them a knife or bayonet, and a little bag containing a fet
of fire-tackle, and are as lightly clothed as poflible ; fome
of them will carry a bow and two or three arrows, but I
never knew any of them take a gun, unlefs fuch as had
‘been blown or burfted, and the barrels cut quite fhort,
which, when reduced to the leaft poffible fize to be ca-
pable of doing any fervice, muft be too great a weight
for a man to run with in his hand for fo many hours
together.

When the poor moofe are incapable of making farther

fpeed, they ftand and keep their purfuers at bay with
Oo 2 their

283

1772.
(ces, renal

‘April,

284

1772.
ed

April.

A JOURNEY TO THE

their head and fore-feet; in the ufe of eich: they are
very dexterous, -fpcoldae the latter; fo that the Indians
who have neither.a bow nor arrows, nor a fhort gun,
with them, are generally obliged to lath their knives or
bayonets to the end of a long ftick, and ftab the moofe at
a diftance. For want of this neceflary precaution, fome
of the boys and fool-hardy young men, who have at- -
tempted to rufh in upon them, have frequently received
fuch unlucky blows. from their fet fess as to render their
recovery very doubtful.

The flefh of the moofe, thus killed, is far from being
well-tafted, and I fhould think muft be very unwhole-
fome, from being over-heated; as by running fo many hours
together, the animal muft have been in a violent fever ;
the flefh being foft and clammy, muft have a very dif-
agreeable tafte, neither refembling fifth, flefh, nor fowl *.

The Southern Indians ufe dogs for this kind of hunt-
ing, which makes it eafier and more expeditious ; but the
Northern tribes having no dogs trained to that exercife,
are under the neceflity of doing it themfelves.

* Though I was a fwift runner in thofe days, I never accompanied the In-. .
dians in one of thofe chaces, but have heard many of them fay, that after a
long one, the moofe, when killed, did not produce more than a quart of blood,
the remainder being all fettled in the flefh; which, in that ftate, muft be ten
times worfe tafted, than the fpleen or milt of a bacon hog.

On

NORTHERN OCEAN.

On the feventh we croffed a part of Thee-lee-aza River :
at which time the fmall Northern deer were remarkably
plentiful, but the moofe began to be very fcarce, as none
were killed after the third.

On the twelfth, we faw feveral fwans flying to the
Northward ; they were the firft birds of paflage we had
feen that Spring, except a few {now-birds, which always
precede the migrating birds, and confequently are with
much propriety called the harbingers of Spring. The

{wans alfo precede all the other {pecies of water-fowl, and

migrate fo early in the feafon, that they find no open
water but at the falls of rivers, where they are readily met,
and fometimes fhot, in confiderable numbers.

On the fourteenth, we arrived at another part of Thee-
lee-aza River, and pitched our tents not far from fome
families of ftrange Northern Indians, who had been there
fome time {naring deer, and who were all fo poor as not
to have one gun among them.

The villains belonging to my crew were fo far from
adminiftering to their relief, that they robbed them of al-
moft every ufeful article in their poffeffion; and to com-
plete their cruelty, the men joined themfelves in parties
of fix, eight, or ten in a gang, and dragged feveral of
their young women to a little diftance from their tents,.

where

285

1772.

April.
7th.

12the

14th,

25th.

A JOURNEY TO THE

where they not only ravifhed them, but otherwife ill-
treated them, and that in fo barbarous a manner, as to
endanger the lives of one or two of them. Humanity
on this, as well as on feveral other fimilar occafions during
my refidence among thofe wretches, prompted me to up-
braid them with their barbarity ; but fo far were my re-

monftrances from having the-defired effe@, that they af-

terwards made no fcruple of telling me in the plaineft
terms, that if any female relation of mine had been there,
fhe fhould have been ferved in the fame manner.

a. |
Deer being plentiful, we remained at this place ten
days, in order to dry and prepare a quantity of the fiefh |
and fat to carry with us; as this was the laft time the In-
dians expected to fee fuch plenty until they met them
again on the barren ground. ‘During our ftay here, the
Indians completed the wood-work for their canoes, and
procured all their Summer tent-poles, &c.; and while we
were employed in this neceflary bufinels, the thaw was
fo great that the bare ground began to appear in many
places, and the ice in the rivers, where the water was
fhallow and the current rapid, began to break up; fo that
we were in daily expectation of feeing geefe, ducks, and

other birds of pafiage.

On the twenty-fifth, the weather being cool and fa-
vourable for travelling, we once more fet out, and that

day

NORTHERN OCEAN.

day walked twenty miles to the Eaftward; as fome of the

women had not joined us, we did not move on the two

following days.

On the twenty-eighth, having once more muftered all
our forces, early in the morning we fet out, and the next
day pafled by Thleweyaza Yeth, the place at which we
had prepared wood-work for canoes in the Spring one
thoufand feven hundred and feventy-one. ?

As the morning of the firft of May was exceedingly

fine and pleafant, with a light air from the South, and a
great thaw, we walked eight or nine miles to the Eaft by
North, when a heavy fall of fnow came on, which was
followed, or indeed more properly accompanied, by a
hard gale of wind from the North Weft. At the time
the bad weather began, we were on the top of a high bar-

ren hill, a confiderable diftance from any woods: judging

it to be no more than a {quall, we fat down, in expedcta-
tion of its foon pafling by. » As the night, however, ad-
vanced, the gale increafed to fuch a degree, that it was
impoflible for a man to ftand upright; fo that we were
obliged to lie down, without any other defence againft the
weather, than putting our {ledges and other lumber to
windward of us, which in reality was of no real fervice,
as it only harboured a great drift of fnow, with which in
fome places we were covered. to the depth of two or three
feet; and as the night was not very cold, I found myéelf,,

and:

287

Lie.
April,

2, Sth.

May

ed.

}

A JOURNEY To! THE

and many others who were with me, long before morning
in a puddle of water, occafioned by the heat of our bodies
melting the {now.

The fecond proved fine pleafant weather, with warm
funfhine. In the morning, having dried all our clothing,
we proceeded on our journey. In the afternoon we arrived
at the part at which my guide intended we fhould build
our canoes; but having had fome difference with his
countrymen, he altered his mind, and determined to pro-

ceed to the Eafiward, as long as the feafon would permit,

before he attempted to perform that duty. Accordingly,
on the third, we purfued our way, and as that and the fol-
lowing day were very cold, which made us walk brifkly,

we were enabled to make good days’ journies; but the

fifth was fo hot and fultry, that we only walked about

thirteen miles in our old courfe to the Eaft by North,
and then halted about three-quarters of a mile to the South ~
of Black Bear Hill; a place which I had feen in the Spring
of one thoufand feven hundred and feventy-one.

On the fixth, the weather was equally hot with the
preceding day; in the morning, however, we meved on
eleven miles to the Eaft, and then met feveral ftrange
Indians, who informed us that.a few others, who had a
tolerable cargo of furrs, and were going to the Factory
that Summer, were not far diftant.

“On

ONDOR TOBE R’N VIO JECALN.

On receiving this intelligence, my guide, Matonabbee,
fent a meffenger to defire their company. This was foon
complied with, as it is an univerfal practice with the In-
dian Leaders, both Northern and Southern, when going
to the Company’s Fa@ory, to ufe their influence and
. intereft in canvafling for companions; as they find by
experience that a large gang gains them much refped.
Indeed, the generality of Europeans who refide in thofe
parts, being utterly unacquainted with the manners and

cuftoms of the Indians, have conceived fo high an opinion

of thofe Leaders, and their authority, as to imagine that
all who accompany them on thofe occafions are entirely
devoted to their fervice and command all the year; but
this is fo far from being the cafe, that the authority of
thofe great men, when abfent from the Company’s Fac-
tory, never extends beyond their own family; and the
trifling refpec&t which is fhown them by their countrymen
during their refidence at the Factory, proceeds only from
motives of intereft,

The Leaders have a very difagreeable tafk to perform
on thofe occafions; for they are not only obliged to be the

mouth-piece, but the beggars for all their aaa and re~ -

lations for whom they have a regard, as well as for thofe
whom at other times they have reafon to fear. Thofe un~

unwelcome commiffions, which are impofed on them by —

their followers, joined to their own defire of being thought

men of great confequence and intereft with the Englith,

Pp make

289

1772.
_—

May.

290.

nya.
May..

A JOURN Eon OY WE

make them very troublefome. And if a Governor deny
them any thing which they afk, though it be only to give
away to the moft worthlefs of their gang, they immedi-
ately turn fulky and impertinent to the higheft degree ; —
and however rational they may be at other times, are im-
mediately divefted of every degree of reafon, and raife .
their demands to fo exorbitant a pitch, that after they
have received to the amount of five times the value of
all the furrs they themfelves have brought, they never
eeafe begging during their flay at the Factory 5 and, after

all, few of them go away thoroughly fatisfied *,
| oa Auger

* Asa proof of this affertion I take the liberty, though a little foreign to
the narrative of my journey, to infert one inftance, out ef many hundreds of
the kind that happen at the different Factories in Hudfon’s Bay, but perhaps
no where fo frequently asat Churchill. In October 1776, my old guide, Ma-
tonabbee, came at the head of a large gang of Northern Indians, to trade at
Prince of Wales’s Fort; at which time I had the honour to command it.
When the ufual ceremonies had paffed, I dreffed him out as a Captain of the
firft rank, and alfo clothed his fix wives from top to toe: after which, that is
to fay, during his ftay at the Factory, which was ten days, he begged feven
Nieutenants’ coats, fifteen common coats, eighteen hats, eighteen fhirts, eight
guns, one hundred and forty pounds weight of gunpowder, with fhot,. ball,
and flints in proportion; together with many hatchets, ice-chiffels, files, bayo-
nets, knives, and a great quantity of tobacco, cloth, blankets, combs, looking-
glaffes, ftockings, handkerchiefs, &c. befides numberlefs fmall articles, fuch —
as awks, needles, paint, fteels, &c, in all to the amount of upwards of feven
hundred beaver in the way of trade, to give away among his followers. This
was exclufive of his own prefent, which confifted of a variety of goods to
the value of four hundred beaver more. But the mott extraordinary of his
demands was twelve pounds of powder, twenty-eight pounds of fhot and ball,
four pounds of tobacco, fome articles of clothing, and feveral pieces of iron-
work, &c. to give to two men who had hauled his tent and other lumber the

preceding

NOR TH E RN} Ove EA N;
After topping four days at this place, Matonabbee, and

all the Indians who were to accompany me to the Fort,
agreed to leave the elderly people and young children here,
in the care of fome Indians who were capable of providing
for them, and who had orders to proceed to a place called
Cathawhachaga, on the barren grounds, and there wait
the return of their relations from the Fa@tory. Matters of
this kind being fettled, apparently to the entire fatisfaction
of all parties, we refumed our journey on the eleventh of
May, and that at a much brifker pace than we could pro-
bably have done when all the old people and young children
were with us. In the afternoon of the fame day we met
fome other Northern Indians, who were alfo going to the
Fort with furrs ; thofe joined our party, and at night we ail
pitched our tents by the fide of a river that empties itfelf
into Doo-baunt Lake. This day all of us threw away
our fnow-fhoes, as the ground was fo bare in moft places
as not to require any fuch afliftance ; but fledges were oc-
<afionally ferviceable for fome time, particularly when we
walked on the ice of rivers or lakes.

preceding Winter. This demand was fo very unreafonable, that I made fome
{cruple, or at lea{t hefitated to comply with it, hinting that he was the perfon
who ought to fatisfy thofe men for their fervices; but I was foon anfwered,
That he did not expect to have been denied fuch a trifle as that was; and for
the future he would carry his goods where he could get his own price for
them. On my afking him where that was ? he replied, in a very infolent tone,
& To the Canadian Traders.”” I was glad to comply with his demands; and
JT here infert the anecdote, as a fpecimen of an Indian’s Confcience.

ip 2 The

Lith,

292

1772.
en ae
May.

18th,

roth.

A JOURNIEY TO THE

The weather on the twelfth was fo exceedingly hot and
fultry, and the water fo deep on the top of the ice of the -
above-mentioned river, as to render walking on it not
only very troublefome, but dangerous; fo after advancing
about five miles we pitched our tents, and the warm

weather being likely to continue, the Indians immedi-
‘ately began to build their canoes, which were com-

pleted with fuch expedition, that in the afternoon of the
eighteenth we again fet forward on our journey, but the
dey being pretty far fpent, we only walked about four
miles, and put up for the night.

The morning of the hen eath was fine pleafant wea-
ther; and as all the water was drained off from the top
of the ice, it rendered walking on it both fafe and eafy ;
accordingly we fet out pretty early, and that day walked
upwards of twenty miles to the Eaft North Eaft on the
above-mentioned river. ‘The next day proved fo cold, that
alter walking about fifteen miles, we were obliged to put
up; for having left Doo-baunt River, we were frequently
obliged to wade above the knees through fwamps of mud,
water, and wet {now; which froze to our ftockings and
fhoes in fuch a thick cruft, as not only rendered walking
very laborious, but at the fame time fubjedted us to the
danger of having our legs and feet frozen.

The weather on the twenty-firft was more fevere than
on the preceding day ; but the fwamps and ponds being
3 by

NORTHERN OCEAN,

by that time frozen over, it was tolerable walking: we
proceeded therefore on our journey, but the wind blew fo
frefh, that we had not walked fixteen miles, before we
_ found that thofe who carried the canoes could not poffibly
kéep up with us, fo that we put up for the night. In the
~ courfe of this day’s journey we crofled the North Weft Bay
of Wholdyah’d Lake; which, at that part, is called by
the Northern Indians A Naw-nee-tha’d Whoie. This
day feveral of the Indians turned back, not being able to
proceed for want of provifions. Game of all kinds indeed
were fo fcarce, that, except a few geefe, nothing had been
killed by any of our party, from our leaving the women
and children on the eleventh inftant, nor had we feen one
deer the whole way.

The twenty-fecond proved more moderate, when all
eur party having joined, we again advanced to the North.
Eaft, and after walking about thirteen miles, the Indians
killed four deer. Our number, however, had now fo
increafed, that four {mall Northern deer would {fcarcely
afford us all a fingle meal.

The next day we continued our journey, generally
walking in the North Eaft quarter; and on the twenty-
fifth, crofled the North bay of They-hole-kye’d Whoie,
or Snow-bird Lake; and at night got clear of all woods,
and lay on the barren ground. ‘The fame day feveral of

the Indians ftruck off another way, not being able to pro-
2 ceed

293

1772.
Ce ened

May.

23d.
25th.

A. TOURNEY 91 0 © DoT E

ceed to the Fort for want of ammunition. ‘As we had
for fome days paft made good journies, and at the fame

time were all heavy-laden, and in great diftrefs for pro-

vifions, fome of my companions were fo weak as to be

obliged to leave their bundles of furrs *; and many others
- were fo reduced as to be no longer capable of proceeding

with us, having neither guns nor ammunition; fo that
their whole dependence for fupport was on the fifh they
might be able to catch; and though fith was pretty plen-
tiful in moft of the rivers and lakes hereabout, yet they
were not always to be depended on for fuch an immediate

fupply of food as thofe peer people required.

Though I had at this time a fuficient ftock of ammu-
nition to ferve me and all my proper companions to the
Fort, yet felf-prefervation being the firft law of Nature,
it was thought advifable to referve the greateft part of it for
our own ufe; efpecially as geefe and other fmaller birds
were the only game now to be met with, and which, in
times of {carcity, ‘bears hard on the articles of powder and
fhot. Indeed moft of the Indians who actually accompanied
me the whole way to the Factory had fome little ammunition
remaining, which enabled them to travel in times of real
fcarcity better than thofe whom we left behind; and though

* All the furrs thus left were properly fecured in caves and crevices of the
rocks, fo as to withftand any attempt that might be made on them by beatts of
prey, and were well fhielded from the weather; fo that, in all probability, few
of them were loft.

we

NORTHERN OCEAN.
we affifted many of them, yet feveral of their women died
for want. It isa melancholy truth, and a difgrace to the
little humanity of which thofe people are poflefled, to
think,. that in times of want the poor women always

come off fhort; and when real diftrefs approaches, many
of them are permitted to ftarve, when the males are amply

provided for.

The twenty-fixth was fine and pleafant. In the morn-
ing we fet out as ufual, and after walking about fave miles,
the Indians killed three deer ; as our numbers were greatly
leffened, thefe ferved us for two or three meals, at a {fma!l

expence of ammunition.

In continuing our courfe to the Eaftward, we crofied
Cathawhachaga River, on the thirtieth of May, on the
ice, which broke up foon after the laft perfon had croffed
it. We had not been-long on the Eaft fide of the river
before we perceived bad weather near at hand, and began
to make every preparation for it which our fituation would
admit; and that was but very indifferent, being on entire
barren ground, It is true, we had complete fets of Sum-
mer tent-poles, and fuch tent-cloths as are generally ufed
by the Northern Indians in that feafon; thefe were ar-
ranged in the beft manner, and in fuch places as were
moft likely to afford us fhelter from the threatening ftorm.
The rain foon began to defcend in fuch torrents as to: make

the river overflow to fucha degree as foon to convert our firft

place

1772.
May.

26th.

qoth.

none

Sth.

Ay FOURNEX TO mH

place of retreat into an open fea, and oblige us im the
middle of the night to aflemble at the top of an adjacent

hill, where the violence of the wind would not permit us

to pitch a tent; fo that the only fhelter we could obtain
was to take the tent-cloth about our fhoulders, and fit
with our backs to the wind; and in this fituation we
we were obliged to remain without the leaft refrefhment,
till the morning of the third of June: in the courfe of
which time the wind fhifted all round the compafs, but
the bad weather full continued, fe that we were con-

ftantly obliged to fhift our pofition as the wind changed.

The weather now became more moderate, though there
was ftill a freth gale from the North Weft, with hard
froft and frequent fhowers of {fnow. Early in the morn-
ing, however, we proceeded on our journey, but the wet
and cold I had experienced the two preceding days fo be-
numbed my lower extremities, as to render walking for
fome time very troublefome. In the courfe of this day’s
journey we faw great numbers of geefe flying to the South-
ward, a few of which we killed; but thefe were very
difproportionate to the number of Pied: we had to ti
and to make up for our long sing

From that time to the eighth we killed every day as
many geefe as were fufficient to preferve life; but on that
day we perceived plenty of deer, five of which the In-
dians killed, which put us all into good fpirits, and the

number

NORTHERN OCEAN.

number of deer we then faw afforded great hopes of more
plentiful times during the remainder of our journey. It
is almoft needlefs to add, that’ people in our diftreffed fitu-
ation expended a little time in eating, and flicing fome of
the flefh ready for drying; but the drying it occafioned
no delay, as we faftened it on the tops of the women’s
bundles, and dried it by the fun and wind while we were
walking ; and, ftrange as it may appear, meat thus pre-
pared is not only very fubftantial food, but pleafant to
the tafte, and generally much efteemed by the natives.
For my own part I muft acknowledge, that it was not only
agreeable to my palate, but after eating a meal of it, I
have always found that I could travel longer without
vidtuals, than after any other kind of food. All the
drie2 meat prepared by the Southern Indians is per-
formed. by expofing it to the heat of a large fire, which

_ foon exhaufts all the fine juices from it, ai when fuf-

ficiently dry to prevent putrefaction, is no more to be com=
pared with that cured by the Northern Indians in the Sun,
or by the heat of a very flow fire, than meat that has been

boiled down for the fake of the foup, is to that whicir

is only fufficiently boiled for eating: the latter has all
the juices remaining, which, being eafily diffolved by the
heat and moifture of the ftomach, proves a ftrong and
nourifhing food; whereas the former being entirely de-
prived of thofe qualities, can by no means have an equal
claim to that chara@ter. Moft of the Europeans, however,
are fonder of it than they are of that cured by the North-

Qq 3 ern

297

1772.
Veer ena)

June.

298

1772
ee

June;

oth.

A JOURNEY TO THE

em Indians, The fame may be faid ef the lean parts of
the beaft, which are firft dried,’ and then reduced into

-a kind of powder. ‘That done by the Northern Indians is

entirely free from dmoke, and quite foft and mellow in the
mouth ; whereas that which is prepared by the Southern
tribes is generally as bitter as foot with fmoke, and is as
hard as the {craps of horn, &c. which are burnt to make
hardening for the cutlers. Inever knew, that any Eu-
ropean was fo fond of this as they are of that made by
the Northern Indians.

On the ninth, as we were continuing our courfe to the
Factory, which then lay in the South Eaft quarter, we faw
feveral fmokes to the North Eaft, and the fame day fpoke
with many Northern Indians, who were going to Knapp’s
Bay to meet the Churchill floop. Several of thofe Indians
had furrs with them, but having fome time before taken wp
goods on truft at Prince of Wales’s Fort, were taking that
method to delay the payment of them. Defrauds of this
kind have been pratifed by many of thofe people with
#great fuccefs, ever fince the furr-trade has been eftablifhed
with the Northern Indians at Knapp’s Bay; by which
means debts to a confiderable amount are annually loft to
the Company, as well as their Governor in the Bay.

Being defirous of improving every opportunity that the
fine weather afforded, we did not lofe much time in con-
verfation with thofe Indians, but proceeded on our courfe

x | | to

NORTHERN OCEAN.

to the South Eaft, while they continued theirs to the
North Fait. |

For many lan after leaving thofe people, we had the
good fortune to meet with plenty of provifions; and as
_ the weather was for a long time remarkably fine and plea-
fant, our circumftances were altered fo much for the better,
that every thing feemed to contribute to our happinefs,
as if defirous to make fome amends for the fevere hunger,

cold, and exceflive hardfhips that we had fuffered long |
before, and which had reduced us to the cia mifery

and want.

Deer was {fo plentiful great part of the way, that the
Indians killed as many as were wanted, without going out
of their road; and every lake and river to which we came
feemed willing to give us a change of diet, by affording
us plenty of the fineft fith, which we caught either with
hooks or nets. Geefe, partridges, gulls, and many other
fowls, which are excellent eating, were alfo in fuch
plenty, that it only required ammunition, in fkilful hands,
to have procured as many~of them as we could defire.

The only inconvenience we now felt was from frequent
fhowers of heavy rain; but the intervals between thefe
fhowers being very warm, and the Sun fhining bright, that
difficulty was eafily overcome, efpecially as the belly was
plentifully fupplied with excellent victuals. Indeed the

Qq 2 2 very

299

1772+
| gesrenns, rtm!

June.

1 Bt.

26th.

A VOURNEYV ITD (THE

very thoughts of being once more arrived fo near home;,
made me capable of encountering every difficulty, even if

it had been hunger itfelf in the moft formidable thape.

On the eighteenth, we arrived at Ege River, from
which place, at the folicitation of my guide Matonab-
bee, I fent a letter poft-hafte to the Chief at Prince of
Wales’s Fort, advifing him of my being fo far advanced —
on my return. The weather at this time was very bad -
and rainy, which caufed us to lofe near a whole day ; but
upon the fine weather returning, we again proceeded at
our ufual rate of eighteen or twenty miles a day, fome-
times more or lefs, according as the road, the weather,,
and other circumftances, would admit.

Deer now began to be not quite fo plentiful, as they-had
been, though we met with enough for prefent ufe, which
was all we wanted, each perfon having as much dried meat
as he could conveniently carry, befides his furrs. and other
neceflary baggage. Pee |

Early in the morning of the twenty-fixth we arrived at.
Seal River *; but the wind blowing right up it, made
. P ‘ fo.

* Mr. Jeremie.is very incorrect in his account of the fituation of this
River, and its courfe. It is not eafy to guefs, whether the Copper or Dog-
ribbed Indians be the nation he calls Plat/cotez de Chiens: if it be the former,
he is much miftaken; for they have abundance of beaver, and other animals
of the furr kind, in their country: and if the latter, he is equally wrong to

affert

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fo great a fea, that we were obliged to wait near ten hours
before we could venture to crofs it in our little canoes.
: In

affert that they have copper-mines in their country; for neither copper nor
any other kind of metal is in ufe among them.

Mr. Jeremie was not too modeft when he faid, (fee Dobbs’s Account of
Fludfon’s Bay, p. 19.) ‘ he could not fay any thing pofitively in going farther
‘© North;” for in my opinion he never was fo far North or Weft as he pre-

tends, otherwife he would have been more correct in his.defcription. of thofe-

parts.

The Strait he mentions is undoubjedly no other than what is now called
Chefterfield’s Inlet, which, in fome late and cold feafons, is not clear of ice
the whole Summer: for I will affirm, that no Indian, either Northern or
Southern, ever faw either Wager Water or Repulfe Bay, except the two men
who accompanied Captain Middleton; and though. thofe men were felected

from fome hundreds for their univerfal knowledge of thofe parts, yet they

knew nothing-of the coaft fo far North as Marble Ifland.

As a farther proof, that no Indians, except the Efquimaux, ever frequent
fuch high latitudes, unlefs at a great diftance from the fea, I muft here mention,
that fo late as the year 1763, when Captain Chriftopher went to furvey Chef-
terfield’s Inlet, though he was furnifhed with the moft intelligent and ex-
perienced Northern Indians that could be found, they did not know an inch
of the land to the North of Whale Cove.

Mr. Jeremie is alfo as much miftaken in what he fays concerning Churchill
River, as he was in che direction of Seal River; for he fays that no woods
were found but in fome iflands which lie about ten or twelve miles up the river.
At the time he wrote, which was long. before a fettlement was made there,
wood was in great plenty on both fides the river; and that within five miles of
where Prince of Vales’s Fort now ftands. Butas to the iflands of which he
fpeaks, if they ever exilted, they have of late years moft affuredly difappeared;
for fince the Company have had a {ettlement on that river, no.one ever faw an
ifland in. it that produced timber, or wood of any defcription, within. forty

: miles

301

1772.
en ane

June.

>
oO

=
of
"3

A JOURNEY TO THE

In the afternoon the weather grew more moderate, fo that
we were enabled to ferry over the river; after which we
refumed our journey, and at night pitched our tents in fome
tufts of willows in fight of the woods of Po-co-thee-kis-co
River, at which we arrived early in the morning of
the twenty-eighth ;. but the wind again blowing very hard
in the Noe Eaft quarter, it was the afternoon of the
twenty-ninth before we could attempt to crofs it.

Juft at the time we were croffing the South branch of
Po-co-thee-kis-co River, the Indians that were fent from
Ege River with a letter to the Chief at Churchill, joined
us on their return, and brought a little tobacco and fome
other articles which I had defired. Though it was late
in the afternoon before we had all croffed the river, yet
we walked that evening till after ten o’clock, and then
put up on one of the Goofe-hunting Iflands, as they are
generally called, about ten miles from the Factory. The
next morning I arrived in good health at Prince of Wales’s

Fort, after having been abfent eighteen months and twenty-

miles of the Fort. But the great number of ftumps now remaining, from
which, in all probability, the trees have been cut for firing, are fufficient to
prove that when Churchill River was firft fettled, wood was then in great plenty ;
but in the courfe of feventy-fix years refidence in one place, it is natural to
fuppofe it was much thinned near the Settlement. Indeed for fome years paft
common fewel is fo fearce near that Factory, that it 1s the chief employment
of moft of the fervants for upward of feven months in the year, to procure as
much wood as will fupply the fires for a Winter, and a little timber for neceffary
repairs.

three

~ NORTHERN OCEAN.

three days on this laft expedition; but from my firft fet-
ting out with Captain Chawchinaha, it was two years
feven months and twenty-four days. :

_ Though my difcoveries are not likely to prove of any
material advantage to the Nation at large, or indeed to
the Hudfon’s Bay Company, yet I have the pleafure to
think that I have fully complied with the orders of my

Mafters, and that it has put a final end to all difputes con-
cerning a North Weft Paflage through Hudfon’s Bay. It |

will alfo wipe off, in fome meafure, the ill-grounded and

unjuft afperfions of Dobbs, Ellis, Robfon, and the Ame-

rican Traveller; who have all taken much pains to con-
demn the conduct. of the Hudfon’s Bay Company, as being

averfe from difcoveries, and from enlarging their trade.

ui

CHAP.

g°8

1772.
em ame)

June.

304

A JOURNEY TO THE

GCG, Bea oF, LX:

A fhort Defcription of the Northern Indians, alfo a

farther Account of their aes Nennartutes Cuf-
toms, &c.

An account of the perfons and tempers of the Northern Indians. ~The

puffs a great deal of art and cunning. —Are very guilty of fraud
‘when in their power, and generally exatt more for their furrs than

any other tribe of Indians.—Always diffatisfied, yet have their good
qualities.—Zhe men in general jealous of their wives.—Their mar=

riages.—Girls always betrothed when children, and their reafons for
it. gp eat care and confinement of young girls from the age of eight or
nine years old.—Divorces common among thofe people-—The women are
lefs prolific than in warmer countries. —Remarkable piece of fuperftition
obferved by the women at particular periods.—Their art in making it
an excufe for a temporary feparation from their bufbands on any little
guarrel.—Reckoned very unclean on thofé occafions.—The Northern
Indians frequently, for the want of firing, are obliged to eat their
meat raw.—Some through neceffity obliged to boil it in veffels made of
the rind of the birch-tree-—A remarkable difo among thofe people.—

The young animals always cut out of their dams eaten, and accounted a
great delicacy.—The parts of generation of all animals eat by the men
and boys.—Manner of pafing their time, and method of killing deer in

Summer with bows and arrows.—TLheir tents, dogs, fledges, &c.—
Snow-/hoes—Their partiality to domeftic vermin.—Utmoft extent of
the Northern Indian country.—Face of the country.—Species of fifo.—

A peculiar kind of mofs ufeful for the fupport of man.—Northern In-

dian method of catching fifo, either with hooks or nets.—Ceremony

obferved when two parties of thofe people meet.—Diverfions in common

ufe—A fingular diforder which attacks fome of thofe people.—Their

Juper-

NvO R TH E:R N @@.0 EB) AN,

Superftition with refpedt to the death of their friends.—Ceremony ob-
ferved on thofe occafions.—Their ideas of the firft inhabitants of the

world.—No form of religion among them.—Remarks on that circum-
france.—The extreme mifery to which old age is expofed.—T heir opinion
_ of the Aurora Borealis, 8cc.—Some Account of Matonabbee, and his
fervices to his country, as well as to the Hudfon's Bay Company,

A. to the perfons of the Northern Indians, they are

in general above the middle fize; well-proportioned, -

ftrong, and robuft, but not corpulent. They do not pof-
fefs that activity of body, and livelinefs of difpofition,
which are fo commonly met with among the other tribes
of Indians who inhabit the Weft coaft of Hudfon’s Bay.

Their complexion is fomewhat of the copper caft, in-
clining rather toward a dingy brown; and their hair, like
all the other tribes in India, is black, ftrong, and ftraight *.
Few of the men have any beard; this feldom makes its
appearance till they are arrived at middle-age, and then
is by no means equal in quantity to what is obferved
on the faces of the generality of Europeans; the little
they have, however, is exceedingly ftrong and briftly.
Some of them take but little pains to eradicate their beards,
though it is confidered as very unbecoming; and thofe

* T have feen feveral of the Southern Indian men who were near fix feet
high, preferve a fingle lock of their hair, that, when let down, would trail on
the ground as they walked. This, however, is but feldom feen; and fome
have fufpeéted it to be falfe: but I have examined the hair of feveral of them,
and found it to be real.

Rr ; who

395

306

A /POURN EX so faE

who do, have no other method than that of pulling it out |

by the roots betwen their fingers and the edge of a blunt

‘Anife. Neither fex have any hair under their armpits, and

very little on any other part of the body, particularly the
women ; but on the place where Nature plants the hair, I
never knew them attempt to eradicate it.

Their features are peculiar, and different from any
other tribe in thofe parts; for they have very low fore-
heads, {mall eyes, high cheek-bones, Roman nofes, full

cheeks, and in general long broad chins. Though few of

either fex are exempt from this national fet of features,
yet Nature feems to be more ftriét in her obfervance of it
among the females, as they feldom vary fo much as the
men. Their fkins are foft, fmooth, and polifhed; and
when they are drefled in clean clothing, they are as free
from an offenfive {mell as any of the human race.

Every tribe of Northern Indians, as well as the Copper
and Dog-ribbed Indians, have three or four. parallel black
ftrokes marked on each cheek; which is performed by
entering an awl or needle under the fkin, and, on drawing
it out again, immediately rubbing powdered charcoal into.
the wound. |

Their difpofitions are in general morofe and covetous,
and they feem to be entirely unacquainted even with the
name of gratitude. They are for ever pleading poverty,

5 even

NORTHERN OCEAN

even among themfelves ; and when they vifit the Factory,
there is not one of them who has not a thoufand wants.

When any real diftrefied objects prefent themfelves at the
Company’s Factory, they are always relieved with viduals,
clothes, medicines, and every other neceflary, gratis; and
in return, they inftrud every one of their countrymen how
to behave, in order to obtain the fame charity. Thus it
is very common to fee both men and women come to the
Fort half-naked, when either the fevere cold in Winter,
or the extreme troublefomenefs of the flies in Summer,
make it neceflary for every part to be covered. On thofe
occafions they are feldom at a lofs for a plaufible ftory,
which they relate as the occafton of their diftrefs, (whether
real or pretended,) and never fail to interlard their hiftory
with plenty of fighs, groans, and tears, fometimes affect-
ing to be lame, and even blind, in order to excite pity.
Indeed, I know of no people that have more command of
their paflions on fuch occafions; and in this refpe@ the
women exceed the men, as I can affirm with truth I have
feen fome of them with one fide of the face bathed in
tears, while the other has exhibited a fignificant {mile.
Falfe pretences for obtaining charity are fo common among
thofe people, and fo often deteéted, that the Governor is
frequently obliged to turn a deaf ear to many who apply
for relief; for if he did not, he might give away the whole
of the Company’s goods, and by degrees all the Northern
Rin.2 | tribe

407

308

Al JOURNEY: TO THE

tribe would make a trade of begging, inftead of bringing
furrs, to purchafe what they want. It may truly be faid,
that they poflefs a confiderable degree of deceit, and are
very complete adepts in the art of flattery, which they
never {pare as long as they find that it conduces to their

intereft, but nota moment longer, They take care always

to feem attached to a new Governor, and flatter his pride,

by telling him that they look up to him as the father of

their tribe, on whom they can fafely place their depend-
ance; and they never fail to depreciate the generofity of
his predeceffor, however extenfive that might have been,
however humane or difinterefted his condué ; and if af-
perfing the old, and flattering the new Governor, has not
the defired effect in a reafonable time, they reprefent him
as the worft of characters, and tell him to his face that he
is one of the moft cruel of men; that he has no fecling for
the diftrefles of their tribe, and that many have perifhed for
want of proper afliftance, (which, if it be true, is only
owing to want of humanity among themfelves,) and then
they boaft of having received ten times the favours and pre-
fents from his predeceffor. It is remarkable that thofe are
moft lavifh in their praifes, who have never either deferved
or received any favours from him. In time, however, this
lancuage alfo ceafes, and they are perfectly reconciled to
the man whom they would willingly have made a fool,
and fay, ‘‘ he is no child, and not to be deceived by
€*, theng.#

They

NORTHERN OCEAN.
They differ fo much from the reft of mankind, that harfh

-uncourteous ufage feems to agree better with the generality

_of them, particularly the lower clafs, than mild. treat-
ment; for if the leaft refpect be {hewn them, it makes
them intolerably infolent; and though fome of their leaders
may be exempt from this imputation, yet there are but
few even of them who have fenfe enough to fet a proper
value on the favours and indulgences which-are granted to
them while they remain at the Company’s Factories, or
elfewhere within their territories. . Experience has con-
vinced me, that by keeping a Northern Indian at a dif-
tance, he may be made ferviceable both to himfelf and the
Company; but by giving him the leaft indulgence at the
Factory, he will grow indolent, inaétive, and trouble-
fome, and only contrive methods to tax the generofity of
an European.

The greateft part of thefe people never fail to defraud
Europeans whenever it is in their power, and take every
method to over-reach them inthe way of trade. They
will difpuife their perfons and change their names, in
order to defraud them of their lawful debts, which they
are fometimes permitted to contrac& at the Company’s
Factory; and all debts that are outftanding at the fuc-
ceffion of a new Governor are entirely loft, as they always
declare, and bring plenty of witnefles to prove, that By
were paid long before, but that their names had.been for-

gotten to be ftruck out of the book. vt
| 10 Notwith-

3°9

A (OUR NIE\Y! Hrloi THE

Notwithftanding all thofe bad qualities, they are the
mildeft tribe of Indians that trade at any- of the Com-
pany’s fettlements; and as the greateft part of them are.
never heated with liquor, are always in their fenfes,
and never proceed to riot, or any violence beyond -bad

language.

The men are in general very jealous of their wives, and
I make no doubt but the fame {pirit reigns among the
women; but they are kept fo much in awe of their —
hufbands, that the liberty of thinking is the greateft pri-
vilege they enjoy. The prefence of a Northern Indian
man {trikes a peculiar awe into his wives, as he always
affumes the fame authority over them that the mafter of a
family in Europe ufually does over his domeftic fervants,

Their marriages are not attended with any ceremony ;
all matches are made by the parents, or next of kin,
On thofe occafions the women feem to have no choice,
but implicitly obey the will of their parents, who al-
ways endeavour to marry their daughters to thofe that
feem moft likely to be capable of maintaining them,
let their age, perfon, or difpofition be ever fo defpi-
cable.

The girls are always betrothed when children, but never
to thofe of equal age, which is doubtlefs found policy with
people in their fituation, where the exiftence of a family

depends

NORTHERN OCEAN.

depends entirely on the abilities and induftry of a fingie
man. Children, as they juftly obferve, are fo liable to
alter in their manners and difpofition, that it is impoflible
to judge from the actions of early youth what abilities they
may pofiefs when they arrive at puberty. For this rea-
fon the girls are often fo difproportionably matched for
age, that it is very common to fee men of thirty-five or
forty years old have young girls of no more than ten or
twelve, and fometimes much younger. From the early
age of eight or nine years, they are prohibited by cuftom
from joining in the moft innocent amufements with chil-
dren of the oppofite fex; fo that when fitting in their
tents, or even when travelling, they are watched and
guarded with fuch an unremitting attention as cannot be
exceeded by the moft rigid difcipline of an Englith board-
ing-{chool. Cuftom, however, and conftant example,
make fuch uncommon reftraint and confinement fit light
and eafy even on children, whofe tender ages feem better
adapted to innocent and cheerful amufements, than to be
cooped up by the fide of old women, and conftantly em-
ployed in feraping fkins, mending fhoes, and learning other
domeftic duties neceffary in the care of a family.

Notwithftanding thofe uncommon reftraints on the young
girls, the condué of their parents is by no means uniform or
confiftent with this plan; as they fet no bounds to their
converfation, but talk before them, and even to them, on
the moft indelicate fubjeéts. As their ears are accuftomed

OST to

$12

A JQ OURN EG TOT THB

to fuch language from their earlieft youth, this has by no
means the fame effect on them, it would have on girls born.
and educated in a civilized country, where every care is
taken to prevent their morals from being contaminated
by obfcene converfation. The Southern Indians are
ftill lefs delicate in converfation, in the ioe iis of their

children.

The women among the Northern Indians are in general
more backward than the Southern Indian women; and
though it is well known that neither tribe lofe any time,
thofe early connections are feldom produétive of children
for fome years.

Divorces are pretty common among the Northern In-.
dians ; fometimes for incontinency, but more frequently
for want of what they deem neceffary accomplifhments,
or for bad behaviour. ‘This ceremony, in either cafe,
confifts of neither more nor lefs than a good drubbing,
and turning the woman out of doors; telling her to go
to her paramour, or relations, according to the nature of
her crime.

Providence is very kind in caufing thefe people to be lefs

prolific than the inhabitants of civilized nations ; it is very

uncommon to fee one woman have more than five or fix
children ; and thefe are always born at fuch a diftance

from one another, that the youngeft is generally two or
three

NORTHERN OCEAN.

three years old before another is brought into the world.
Their eafy births, and the ceremonies which take place
on thofe occafions, have already been mentioned ; I fhall
therefore only obferve here, that they make no ufe of
cradles, like the Southern Indians, but only tie a lump
of mofs between their legs; and always carry their chil-
dren at their backs, next the fkin, till they are able to
walk. Though their method of treating young children is
in this refpect the moft uncouth and awkward I ever faw,
there are few among them that can be called deformed,
and not one in fifty who is not bow-legged.

There are certain periods at which they never permit the
- ‘women to abide in the fame tent with their hufbands. At
fuch times they are obliged to make a {mall hovel for
themfelves at fome diftance from the other tents. As this
is an univerfal cuftom among all the tribes, it is alfo a
piece of policy with the women, upon any difference with
their hufbands, to make that an excufe for a temporary
{eparation, when, without any ceremony, they creep out (as
is their ufual cuftom on thofe occafions) under the eves of
that fide of the tent at which they happen to be fitting ;_ for
at thofe times they are not permitted to go in or out through
the door. This cuftom is fo generally prevalent among the
women, that I have frequently known fome of the fulky
dames leave their hufbands and tent for four or five days at
atime, and repeat the farce twice or thrice ina month, while
the poor men have never fufpected the deceit, or if they

Sf | have,

383

314

A /JOOCOCR NPE T’O A TOHIE

have, delicacy on their part has: not: permitted thenr: to
enquire into the matter. I> have known! Matonabbee’s
handfome wife, who eloped from him in*May one thou-
fand feven hundred and feventy-one, live thun-nardy, as
as they call it, (that is, alone,) for feveral weeks together,

under this pretence; but as a proof he had fome: fufpi-

cion, fhe was always carefully watched, to prevent her
from giving her company to anyother man. The South-
ern Indians are alfo very delicate in this point ; for though -
they do not force their wives to build a feparate tent, they
never lie under) the fame clothes:during this period... It
is, however, equally true, that the young girls, when
thofe fymptoms make their firft appearance, generally go
a little. diftance from the other tents for four or five days,
and at their return wear a kindof veil or curtain, made
of beads, for fome time after, asa mark of modefty ; as
they are then confidered marriageable, and of courfe are
called women, though fome at thofe periods are not more”
than thirteen, while others at the age of fifteen or fixteen
have been reckoned as children, though apparently arrived
at nearly their full growth.

On thofe occafions a remarkable piece of fuperftition
prevails among them ; women in this fituation are never
permitted to walk on the ice of rivers or lakes, or near the
part where the men are hunting beaver, or where a fith-
ing-net is fet, for fear of averting their fuccefs. They
are alfo iokieed at thofe times from partaking of the

head

NORTHERN OCEAN.

head of any animal, and even from walking in, or crofling
the track where the head of a deer, moofe, beaver, and
many other animals, have lately been carried, either on
a fledge or on the back. To be guilty of a violation
of this cuftom is confidered as of the greateft importance;
becaufe they firmly believe that it would be a means of
preventing the hunter from having an equal fuccefs in his
future excurfions.

Thofe poor people live in fuch an inhofpitable part of
the globe, that for want of firing they are frequently
obliged to eat their victuals quite raw, particularly in the
Summer feafon, while on the barren ground; but early
cuftom and frequent neceflity make this prattice fo fa-
miliar to them, that fo far from finding any inconveni-
ence arife from it, or having the leaft diflike to it, they
frequently do it by choice, and particularly in the article
of fifth; for when they do make a pretence of drefling
it, sey feldom warm it through. I have frequently
made one of a party who has fat round a frefh-killed deer,
and affifted in picking the bones quite clean, when I
thought that the raw brains and many other parts were
exceedingly good ; and, however ftrange it may appear, I
muft beftow the fame epithet on half-raw fifh: even
to this day I give the preference to trout, falmon,
and the brown tittemeg, when they are not warm at the
bone.

S fs The

Re)

310

AVWYOLW RIN Ea TOY ye

The extreme poverty of thofe Indians in general will
not permit one half of them to purchafe brafs kettles from
the Company; fo that they are ftill under the neceflity of
continuing their original mode of boiling their vi@tuals in
large upright veffels made of birch-rind. As thofe veffels
will not admit of being expofed to the fire, the Indians,
to fupply the defect, heat {tones red-hot and put them
into the water, which foon occafions it.to boil; and by
having a conftant fucceflion of hot ftones, they may con-
tinue the procefs as long as it is neceflary. This method
of cooking, though very expeditious, is attended with
one great evil: the victuals which are thus prepared are

full of fand; for the ftones thus heated, and then im-

merged in the water, are not only liable to fhiver to pieces,
but many of them being of a coarfe gritty nature, fall to
a mafs of gravel in the kettle, which cannot be prevented
from mixing with the victuals which are boiled in it. Be-
fides this, they have feveral other methods of preparing
their food, fuch as roafting it by a ftring, broiling it, @c. ;
but thefe need no farther defcription.

The moft remarkable difh among them, as well as all
the other tribes of Indians in thofe parts, both Northern
and Southern, is blood mixed with the half-digefted food
which is found in the deer’s flomach or paunch, and
boiled up with a fuficient quantity of water, to make it
of the confiftence of peafe-pottage. Some fat and {craps

of

NO RoT*H E RN YO CEVA N.

of tender flefh are alfo fhred {mall and boiled with it.-

To render this difh more palatable, they have a method
of mixing the blood with the contents of the ftomach in
the paunch itfelf, and hanging it up in the heat and {moke
of ik fire for feveral days; which puts the whole mafs
into a flate of fermentation, and gives it fuch an agreeable
acid tafte, that were it not for prejudice, it might be eaten
by thofe who have the niceft palates. It is true, fome
_ people with delicate ftomachs would not be eafily pereaiddd
to partake of this difh, efpecially if they faw it dreffed ;
for moft of the fat which is boiled in it is firft chewed by

the men and boys, in order to break the globules that con-_

tain the fat; by which means it all boils out, and mixes
with the broth: whereas, if it were permitted to remain as
it came from the knife, it would ftill be in lumps, like
fuet. To dojuftice, however, to their cleanlinefs in this
particular, I muft obferve, that they are very careful that
neither old people with bad teeth, nor young children,.
have any hand in preparing this difh. At frft, I muft
acknowledge that I was rather fhy in oe che of this
mefs, but when I was fufficiently convinced of the truth
of the above remark, I no longer made any fcruple, but

always thought it exceedingly good.

The ftomach of no other large animal befide the deer-

is eaten by any of the Indians that border on Hudfon’s Bay..
In Winter, when the deer feed on fine white mofs, the
contents of the ftomach is fo mucli efteemed by them,

oe

317

A JOURNEY TO THE

that I have often feen them fit round a deer where it was
killed, and eat it warm out of the paunch. In Summer
the deer feed more coarfely, and therefore this dith, if it
deferve that appellation, is then not fo much in favour.

The young calves, fawns, beaver, &c. taken out of
the bellies of their mothers, are reckoned moft delicate
food; and I am not the only European who heartily joins
in pronouncing them the greateft dainties that can be eaten.
Many gentlemen who have ferved with me at Churchill,
as well as at York Fort, and the inland fettlements, will
readily agree with me in afferting, that no one who ever got
the better of prejudice fo far as to tafte of thofe young ani-
mals, but has immediately become exceflively fond of them;
and the fame may be faid of young geefe, ducks, &c. in
the fhell. In fac, it is almoft become a proverb in the
Northern fettlements, that whoever wifhes to know what
is good, muft live with the Indians. : }

The parts of generation belonging to any beaft they kill,
both male and female, are always eaten by the men and
boys; and though thofe parts, particularly in the males,
are generally very tough, they are not, on any account, to

be cut with an edge-tool, but torn to pieces with the

teeth ; and when any part of them proves too tough to be
mafticated, it is thrown into the fire and burnt. For
the Indians believe firmly, that if a dog fhould eat any
part of them, it would have the fame effect on their

q fuccefs

NORTHERN OCEAN.

fuccef§ in hunting, that a woman croffing’ their hunting-
track'at an improper period would have. The fame ill-
fuccefs is fuppofed alfo to attend them if a woman eat any
of thofe parts.

They are alfo remarkably fond of the womb of the
buffalo, elk, deer, Ge. which they eagerly devour with-
out wafhing, or any other procefs but barely ftroking out
the contents. This, in fome of the larger animals, and

efpecially when they are fome time gone with young, needs:

no defcription to make it fufficiently difgufting and yet
I have known fome in the Company’s fervice remarkably

fond of the difh, though I am not one of the number.

The womb of the beaver and deer is well enough, but

that of the moofe and buffalo is very rank, and truly

difeufting *.

* The Indian method of preparing this unaccountable dith is by throwing
the filthy bag acrofs a pole directly over the fire, the fmoke of which, they
fay, much improves it, by taking off the original flavour; and when any
of it is to be cooked, a large flake, like as much tripe, is cut off and boiled:

for a few minutes; but the many large nodes with which the infide of the
womb is ftudded, make it abominable. Thefe nodes are as incapable of being,

divefted of moifture as the fkin of a live eel; but when boiled, much re-
femnble, both in fhape and colour, the yolk of an ege,. and are fo called by:
thé natives, and as eagerly devoured by them..

The tripe of the buffalo is exceedingly good, and the Indian method of
cooking it infinitely fuperior to that practifed in Europe. When opportunity

will permit, they wath it tolerably clean in cold water, ftrip off all the honey--

comb, and only boil it about half, or three-quarters of an hour: in that time.

ike

Our

319°

32e

Ai FO URNERawo, Dae

Our Northern Indians who trade at the Factory, as well
as all the Copper tribe, pafs their whole Summer on the
barren ground, where they generally find plenty of deer ;

and in fome of the rivers and lakes, a great abundance of

fine fith. |

"Their bows and arrows, though their original weapons,
are, fince the introduction of fire-arms among them, be-
come of little ufe, except in killing deer as they walk or
run through a narrow pafs prepared for their reception,
where feveral Indians lie concealed for that purpofe. This
method of hunting is only practicable in Summer, and on
the barren ground, where they have an extenfive profped,
and can fee the herds of deer at a great diftance, as well
as difcover the nature of the country, and make every ne-

it is fufficiently done for eating; and though rather tougher than what is pre-
pared in England, yet is exceedingly pleafant to the tafte, and muft be much
more nourifhing than tripe that has been foked and fcrubbed in many hot
waters, and then boiled for ten or twelve hours.

The leffer ftomach, or, as fome call it, the many-folds, either of buffalo,
moofe, or deer, are ufually eat raw, and are very good; but that of the moofe,'

uniefs great care be taken in wafhing it, is rather bitter, owing to the nature
of their food.

The kidneys of both moofe and buffalo are ufually eat raw by the Southern
Indians ; for no fooner is one of thofe beafts killed, than the hunter rips up its
belly, thrufts in his arm, fnatches out the kidneys, and eats them warm, be-
fore the animal is quite dead. They alfo at times put their mouths to the
wound the ball has made, and fuck the blood; which they fay quenches thirft,
and is very nourifhing.

ceflary

NORTHERN OCEAN
ceflary arrangement for driving them through the narrow
defiles. This method of hunting is performed in the fol-
lowing manner :

When the Indians fee a herd of deer, and intend to hunt
them with bows and arrows, they obferve which way the
wind blows, and always get to leeward, for fear of being
{melled by the deer. The next thing to which they at-
tend, is to fearch for a convenient place to conceal thofe who
are appointed to {hoot. ‘This being done, a large bundle of
fticks, like large ramrods, (which they carry with them the
whole Summer for the purpofe,) are ranged in two ranks,
fo as to form the two fides of avery acute angle, and
the flicks placed at the .diftance of fifteen or twenty
yards from each other. When thofe neceflary arrange-
ments are completed, the women and boys feparate into

two parties, and go round on both fides, till they form a

crefcent at the back of the deer, which are drove right

forward; and as each of the fticks has a {mall flag, or

more properly a pendant, faftened to it, which is eafily

waved to and fro by the wind, and a lump of mofs ftuck |

on each of their tops, the poor timorous deer, probably
taking them for ranks of people, generally run ftraight
forward between the two ranges of fticks, till they get
among the Indians, who lie concealed in fmall circular
fences, made with loofeftones, mofs, &’c. When the deer
approach very near, the Indians who are thus concealed
fart up and fhoot; but as the deer generally pafs along at

re full.

32%

ig22

Aho RON Bi Sol aig

full {peed, few Indians have time to fhoot more than one

or two arrows, unlefs the herd be very large.

This method of hunting is not always attended with
equal fuccefs ; for fometimes after the Indians: have been

at the trouble of making places of fhelter, and arranging

the flag-fticks, &*c. the deer will make off another way,
before the women and children can furround them. At
other times I have feen eleven or twelve of them killed
with one volley of arrows; and if any gun-men attend on
thofe occafions, they are always placed behind the other
Indians, in order to pick up the deer that efcape the bow-
men. By thefe means I have feen upwards of twenty fine
deer killed at one broadfide, as it may be termed.

Though the Northern Indians may be faid to kill a great
number of deer in this manner during the Summer, yet
they have fo far loft the art of fhooting with bows and
arrows, that I never knew any of them who could take
thofe weapons only, and kill either deer, moofe, or buf-

falo, in the common, wandering, and promifcuous method

of hunting. ‘The Southern Indians, though they have
been much longer ufed to fire-arms, are far more expert
with the bow and arrow, their original weapons.

The tents made ufe of by thofe Indians, both in Sum-
mer and Winter, are generally compofed of deer-fkins in
the hair; and for convenience of carriage, are always

made

NORTHERN OCEAN.

made in {mall pieces, feldom exceeding five buck-fkins in
one piece. Thefe tents, as alfo their kettles, and fome
other lumber, are always carried by dogs, which are
trained to that fervice, and are very docile and traétable.
Thofe animals are of various fizes and colours, but all of
the fox and wolf breed, with fharp nofes, full brufhy
tails, and fharp ears ftanding erect. ‘They are of great
courage when attacked, and bite fo fharp, that the fmalleft
cur among them will keep feveral of our largeft Englifh

dogs at bay, if he can get up inacorner. Thefe dogs
are equally willing to haul in a fledge, but as few of the -

men will be at the trouble of making fledges for them,
the poor women are obliged to content themfelves with
leffening the bulk of their load, more than the weight,
by making the dogs carry thefe articles only, which are
always lafhed on their backs, much after the fame manner
aS iaiak are, or ufed formerly to be, on pack-horfes,

In the fall of the year, and as the Winter advances,
thofe people few the {kins of the deers legs together in
the thape of long portmanteaus, which, when hauled on
the {now as the hair lies, are as fAinpen as an otter, and
ferve them as temporary fledges while on the barren
ground; but when they arriye at any woods, they then
make proper fledges, with thin boards of the larch-tree,
generally known in Hudfon’s Bay per the name of

Juniper.
Net g Thofe

a>

ie)

one

A JOURNEY TO THE
Thofe fledges are of various fazes, according to the
ftrength of the perfons who are to haul them: fome I
have feen were not lefs than twelve'or fourteen feet long,
and fifteen or fixteen inches wide, but in general they
do not exceed eight or nine feet in length, and twelve

or fourteen inches in breadth.

The boards of which thofe fledges are compofed are not
more than a quarter of an inch thick, and feldom exceed
five or fix inches in width ; as broader would be very un-
handy for the Indians to work, who have no other tools
than an ordinary knife, turned up a little at the point,
from which it acquires the name of Bafe-hoth among the
Northern Indians, but among the Southern tribes it is
called Mo-co-toggan. The boards are fewed together
with thongs of parchment deer-fkin, and feveral crofs bars
of wood are fewed on the upper fide, which ferves both
to ftrengthen the fledge and fecure the ground-lafhing, to
which the load is always faftened by other fmaller thongs,
or ftripes of leather. The head or fore-part of the fledge
is turned up fo as to form a femi-circle, of at leaft fif-
teen or twenty inches diameter. This prevents the car-
riage from diving into light fnow, and enables it to flide
over the inequalities and hard drifts of fnow which are
conftantly met with on the open plains and barren grounds. |
The trace or draught-line to thofe fledges is a double
ftring, or flip of leather, made faft to the head; and
the bight is put acrofs the fhoulders of the perfon who

A _ hauls

WOrTR) DAE RN VO: EAN,
hauls the fledge, fo as to reft againft the breaft. This

contrivance, though fo fimple, cannot be improved by the.
moft ingenious collar-maker in the world..

Their fnow-fhoes differ from all others made ufe of in

_thofe parts; for though they are of the galley kind, that

is, fharp-pointed before, yet they are always to be worn:

on one foot, and cannot be fhifted from fide to fide, like

other fnow-fhoes; for this reafon the inner-fide of the:

frames are almoft ftraight, and the outer-fide has a very
large fweep. The frames are generally made of birch-

wood, and the netting is compofed of thongs of deer--
fkin; but their mode of filling that compartment where:
the foot’ refts, is quite different from that ufed among the.

Southern. Indians.

Their clothing, whiclr chiefly confifts of deer fkins in the-
hair, makes them very fubject to be loufy s. ‘but that is fo.
far from being thought a difgrace, that the beft among them.
amufe themfelves with catching and eating thefe vermin ;.
of which they are fo fond, that the produce of a loufy head.

or garment affords them not only pleafing amufement, but a.

delicious repaft. My old guide, Matonabbee, was fo re-.
_markably fond of thofe little vermin, that he frequently
fet five or fix of his ftrapping wives to work to loufe their
hairy deer-fkin fhifts, the produce of which being always.
very confiderable, he eagerly received with both hands,.
and licked them in as faft, and with as good a.grace, as
any

32 6

A SOURNEY (Fo WHE

any European epicure would the mites in a cheefe. He

often affured me that fuch amufement was not only very
pleafing, but that the objects of the fearch were very good ;
for which I gave him credit, telling him at the fame time,
that though I endeavoured to habituate myfelf to every

other part of their diet, yet as I was but a fojourner

among them, I had no inclination to accuftom myfelf to
fuch dainties as I could not procure in that part of the
world where I was moft inclined to refide.

The Southern Indians and Efquimaux are equally fond
of thofe vermin, which are fo deteftable in the eyes of an
European; nay, the latter have many other dainties of a
fimilar kind; for befide making ufe of train-oil as a cordial
and as fauce to their meat, I have frequently feen them
eat a whole handful of maggots that were produced in
meat by fly-blows. It is their conftant cuftom to eat the
filth that comes from the nofe; and when their nofes
bleed by accident, they always oe the blood into their ~
mouths, and fwallow it.

_ The track of land inhabited by the Northern Indians is
very extenfive, reaching from the fifty-ninth to the fixty-
eighth degree of North latitude; and from Eaft to Weft
is upward of five hundred miles wide. It is bounded by
Churchill River on the South; the Athapufcow Indians’
Country on the Weft; the Dog-ribbed and Copper Indians
Country on the North; and by Hudfon’s Bay on the Eaft,

The

£6 RTH ERIN OCEAM

The land throughout that whole track of country is {carcely
any thing but one folid mafs of rocks and ftones, and in

moft parts very hilly, particularly to the Weftward, among

the woods. ‘The furface, it is very true, is in moft places
covered with a thin fod of mofs, intermixed with the roots
of the Wee-fa-ca-pucca, cranberries, and a few other in-
fignificant fhrubs and herbage ; but under it there is in ge-

neral a total want of foil, capable of producing any thing

except what is peculiar to the climate. Some of. the
marfhes, indeed, produce feveral kinds of grafs, the growth

of which is amazingly rapid; but this is dealt out with |

fo {paring a hand as to be barely fufficient to ferve the

geefe, fwans, and other birds of paflage, during their mi-
grations in the Spring and Fall, while they remain in a

moulting ftate.

The many lakes and rivers with which this part of the

country abounds, though they do not furnifh the natives
with water-carriage, are yet of infinite advantage to them;
as they afford great numbers of fifh, both in Summer and
Winter. The only {pecies caught in thofe parts are trout,
tittameg, (or tickomeg,) tench, two forts of barble, (called

. by the Southern Indians Na-may-pith,) burbot, pike, and.

a few perch. ‘The four former are caught in all parts of
this country, as well the woody as the barren ; but the
three latter are only caught to the Weftward, in fucl: lakes
and rivers as are fituated among the woods; and though
fome of thofe rivers lead to the barren ground, yet the

three

377

B28

A JOUR NEW (TOs E

‘three laft mentioned fpecies of faith are feldom caught

-beyond the edge of the woods, not even in the Summer
Seafon. |

There is a black, hard, crumply mofs, that grows on

the rocks and large ftones in thofe parts, which is of in-

finite fervice to the natives, as it fometimes furnifhes them
with a temporary fubfiftence, when no animal food can
be procured. This mofs, when boiled, turns toa gummy
confiftence, and is more clammy in the mouth than fago ;
it may, by adding either mofs or water, be made to almoft
any confiftence. It is fo palatable, that all who tafte it
generally grow fond of it. It is remarkably good and
pleafing when ufed to thicken any kind of broth, but it
is generally moft efteemed when boiled in fifh-liquor.

The only method pradifed by thofe people to catch
fith either in Winter or Summer, is by angling and fet-
ting nets; both of which methods is attended with much
fuperftition, ceremony, and unnecetiary trouble; but I

will endeavour to defcribe them in as plain and brief a
a manner as poflible. :

‘When they make a new fifhing-net, which is always
compofed of fmall thongs cut from raw deer-fkins, they
ay a number of birds bills and feet, and tie them, a little

apart from each other, to the head and foot rope of the
net, and at the four corners generally faften fome of the
toes and jaws of the otters and jackafhes. The birds feet

and

NORTHERN OCEAN.

and bills made choice of on fuch occafions are generally
thofe of the laughing -goofe, wavey, (or white goofe,)
gulls, loons, and black-heads; and unlefs fome or all
of thefe be faftened to the net, they will not attempt
to put it into the water, as they firmly believe it would

not catch a finele fith. : -

A net thus accoutred is fit for fetting whenever occafion
requires, and opportunity offers; but the firft fith of
whatever fpecies caught in it, are not to be fodden in the
water, but broiled whole on the fire, and the flefh care-
fully taken from the bones without diflocating one joint ;
after which the bones are laid on the fire at full length
and burnt. A ftri&t obfervance of thefe rules is fuppofed
to be of the utmoft importance in promoting the future
fuccefs of the new net; and a negled of them would
render it not worth a farthing *.

When they ffh in rivers, or narrow channels that join |

two lakes together, they could frequently, by tying two,
three, or more nets together, fpread over the whole breadth
of the channel, and intercept every fizable fith that
pafled; but inftead of that, they fcatter the nets at a
confiderable diftance from each other, from a fuperfti-

* They frequently fell new nets, which have not been wet more than once
or twice, becaufe they have not been fuccefsful. Thofe nets, when {oked in
water, are eafily opened, and then make moft excellent heel and toe netting
for {fnow-fhoes. In general it is far fuperior to the netting cut by the Southern
Indian women, and is not larger than common net-twine.

WU u tious

a9

A JOURNEY TO THE

tious notion, that were they kept clofe together, one net
would be jealous of its neighbour, and by that means not
one of them would catch a fingle fith.

‘The methods ufed, and ftrialy obferved, when angling,

-are equally abfurd as thofe I have mentioned; for when

they bait a hook, a compofition of four, five, or fix ar-
ticles, by way of charm, is concealed under the bait, which
is always fewed round the hook. In fa&, the only bait
ufed by thofe people is in their opinion a compofition
of charms, inclofed within a bit of fifh-fkin, fo as in
fome meafure to refemble a fmall fifh. The things ufed
by way of charm, are bits of beavers tails and fat, otter’s
vents and teeth, mufk-rat’s guts and tails, loon’s vents,
{quirrel’s tefticles, the cruddled milk taken out of the
ftomach of fucking fawns and calves, human hair, and
numberlefs other articles equally abfurd.

Every mafter of a family, and indeed almoft every other
perfon, particularly the men, have a {mall bundle of fuch
trafh, which they always carry with them, both in Sum-
mer and Winter; and without fome of thofe articles to
put under their bait, few of them could be prevailed
upon to put a hook into the water, being fully perfuaded
that they may as well fit in the tent, as attempt to angle
without fuch affiftance. They have alfo a notion that
fith of the fame fpecies inhabiting different parts of the
country, are fond of different things; fo that almoft every

4. lake

NORTHERN OCEAN.

lake and river they arrive at, obliges them to alter the com-

pofition of the charm. The fame rule is obferved on |

broiling the firft fruits of a new hook that is ufed for a
new net; an old hook that has already been fuccelsfu!
in catching large fifth is efteemed of more value, than a
handful of new ones which have never been tried.

Deer alfo, as well as fifh, are very numerous in many
parts of this country; particularly to the North of the

fixtieth degree of latitude. Alpine hares are in fome —

parts of the barren ground pretty plentiful, where alfo
fome herds of mufk-oxen are to be met with; and to
the Weftward, among the woods, there are fome rabbits
and partridges. With all thofe feeming fources of plenty,
however, one half of the inhabitants, and perhaps the
other half alfo, are frequently in danger of being ftarved
to death, owing partly to their want of ceconomy; and
moft of thefe {cenes of diftrefs happen during their jour-
nies to and from Prince of Wales’s Fort, the only place at

which they trade.

When Northern Indians are at the Factory, they are
very liable to fteal any thing they think will be fervice-
able; particularly iron hoops, {mall bolts, {pikes, car-
penters tools, and, in fhort, all {mall pieces of iron-work
which they can turn to advantage, either for their own
ufe, or for the purpofe of trading with fuch of their
countrymen as feldom vifit the Company’s Settlement :

teu, 2 ; among

G2
QW

332

A JOURN Edy a0. BE

among themfelves, however, the crime of theft is feldom

heard of.

When two parties of thofe Indians meet, the ceremonies
which pafs between them are quite different from thofe

made ufe of in Europe on fimilar occafions; for when

they advance within twenty or thirty yards of each other,

they make a full halt, and_in general fit or lie down on
the ground, and-do not {peak for fome minutes. At
length one of them, generally an elderly man, if any be
in company, breaks filence, by acquainting the other
party with every misfortune that has befallen him and his
companions from the laft time they had feen or heard of
each other; and alfo of all deaths and other calamities that —
have befallen any other Indians during the fame period, at
leaft as many particulars as have come to his knowledge.

When the firft has finifhed ae oration, another aged
orator (if there be any) belonging to the other party re-
lates, in like manner, all the bad news that has come to
his knowledge; and both parties never fail to plead po-
verty and famine on all cccafions. If thofe orations con-
tain any news that in the leaft affect the other party, it is not
long before fome of them begin to figh and fob, and foon
after break out into a loud ery, which is generally accom-
panied by moft of the grown perfons of both fexes; and.
fometimes it is common to fee them all, men, women,
and children, in one univerfal howl. The young girls, in

| particular,

NOR FHERN ‘OC EA N,

particular, are often very obliging on thofe occafions; for 1

never remember to have feen a crying match (as I called
it) but the greateft part of the company affifted, although
fome of them had no other reafon for it, but that of feeing
their companions do the fame. When the firft tranfports
of grief fubfide, they advance by degrees, and both parties

mix with each other, the men always aflociating with the.
men, and the women with the women. If they have:
‘amy tobacco among them, the pipes are paffed round.

pretty freely, and the converfation foon becomes general.

As they are on their firft meeting acquainted with all.
the bad news, they have by this time nothing left but.

good, which in general has fo far the predominance over the

former, that in lefs than half an hour nothing but fmiles.
and cheerfulnefs are to be feen in every face; and if they
be not really in want, {mall prefents of provifions, am-.

munition, and other articles, often take place ; fometimes

merely as a gift, but more frequently by way of trying.

whether they cannot get a greater prefent.

They have but few diverfions; the chief is fhooting at
a mark with bow and arrows; and another out-door game,
called Holl, which in fome meafure refembles playing with
quoits ; only it is done with fhort clubs, fharp at oneend.
They alfo amufe themfelves at times with dancing, which
is always performed in the night. It is remarkable that
thofe people, though a diftinG nation, have never adopted
any mode of dancing of their own, or any fongs to which

they
é

333

Dat

i

AU POW WNW TO! aE

they can dance; fo that when any thing of this kind is
attempted, which is but feldom, they always endeavour
to imitate either the Dog-ribbed or Southern Indians, but
more commonly the former, as few of them are fufficiently
acquainted either with the Southern Indian language, or

their manner of dancing. The Dog-ribbed method is not

very difficult to learn, as it only confifts in lifting the feet
alternately from the ground in a very quick fucceffion,
and as high as poffible, without moving the body, which
fhould be kept quite ftill and motionlefs; the hands at the
fame time being clofed, and held clofe to the breaft, and
the head inclining forward, This diverfion is always per-
formed quite naked, except the breech-cloth, and at times
that is alfo thrown off; and the dancers, who feldom ex-
ceed three or four at a time, always ftand clofe to the
mufic. The mufic may, by ftraining a point, be called
both vocal and inftrumental, though both are fufficiently
humble. The former is no more than a frequent repeti-
tion of the words. hee, hee, hee, ho, ho, ho; &c. which,
by a more or lefs frequent repetition, dwelling longer on
one word and fhorter on another, and raifing and lowering —
the voice, produce fomething like a tune, and has the de-
fired effe&. This is always accompanied by a drum or
tabor; and fometimes a kind of rattle is added, made
with a piece of dried buffalo fkin, in fhape exactly like an
oil-flafk, into which they put a few fhot or pebbles,
which, when fhook about, produces mufic little inferior
to the drum, though not fo Joud,

This

NORTHERN OCEAN.

This mode of dancing naked is performed only by the
men; for when the women are ordered to dance, they al-
ways exhibit without the tent, to mufic which is played
within it; and though their method of dancing is perfe&ly
decent, yet it has ftill lefs meaning and action than that of
the men: for a whole heap of them crowd together in a
ftraight line, and juft fhufle themfelves a little from right
to left, and back again in the fame line, without lifting
their feet from the ground; and when the mufic ftops,
they all give a little bend of the body and knee, fomewhat
like an awkward curtfey, and pronounce, in a little fhrill
tone, h-e-e, h-o-o-o-e.

Befide thefe diverfions, they have another fimple in-
door game, which is that of taking a bit of wood,. a
batton, or any other fmall thing, and after fhifting it
from hand to hand feveral times, afking their antagonift,
which hand it isin? When playing at this game, which
only admits of two perfons, each of them have ten, fif-
teen, or twenty fmall chips of wood, like matches; and
when one of the players gueffes right, he takes one of
his antagonift’s fticks, and lays it to his own; and he that
firft gets all the flicks from the other in that manner, is
faid to win the game, which is generally for a fingle load

of powder and fhot, an arrow, or fome other thing of

inconfiderable value.

The women never mix in any of their diverfions, not
even in dancing; for when that is required of them, they
always

A JOURNERA TO 310HE

always exhibit without the tent,-as has been already ob-
ferved ; nor are they allowed to be prefent at a feaft. In-
deed, the whole courfe of their lives is one continued ©
fcene of drudgery, viz. catrying and hauling heavy loads,
drefling fkins for clothing, curing their provifions, and prac-

tifing other neceflary domeftic duties which are required in

a family, without enjoying the leaft diverfion of any kind,
or relaxation, on any occafion whatever; and except in the
execution of thofe homely duties, in which they are al-
ways inftructed from their infancy, their fenfes feem al-
moft as dull and frigid as the zone they inhabit. There
are indeed fome exceptions to be met with among them,
and I fuppofe it only requires indulgence and precept to
make fome of them as lofty and infolent as any women in
the world. ‘Though they wear their hair at full length,
and never tie it up, like the Southern Indians; and though
not one in fifty of them is ever pofleffed of a comb, yet
by a wonderful dexterity of the fingers, and a good deal
of patience,” they make fhift to ftroke it out fo as not to
leave two hairs entangled ; but when their heads are in-
fefted with vermin, from which very few of either fex are
free, they mutually affift each other in keeping them
under,

A fcorbutic diforder, refembling the worft ftage of the
itch, confumptions, and fluxes, are their chief diforders.
The firft of thefe, though very troublefome, is never
knewn to prove fatal, unlefs it be accompanied with fome
inward complaint; but the two latter, with a few acci-

dents,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

dents, carries off great numbers of both fexes and all ages :
indeed few of them live to any great age, probably owing
to the great fatioue they undergo from their youth up, in
procuring a fubfaftence for themfelves and their offspring.

Though the {corbutic diforder above mentioned does
appear to be infectious, it is rare to fee one have it with-
out the whole tent’s crew being more or lefs affected
with it; but this is by no means a proof of its being
contagious; I rather attribute it to the effets of fome
bad water, ‘or the unwholefomenefs of fome fifh they may
catch in particular places, in the courfe of their wandering
manner of life. Were it otherwife, a fingle family would
in a {hort time communicate it to the whole tribe; but,
on the contrary, the difeafe is never known to fpread.. In
the younger fort it always attacks the hands and feet,
not even fparing the palms and foles. Thofe of riper
years generally have it about the wrifts, infteps, and pof-
teriors; and in the latter particularly, the blotches, or
boils as they may juftly be called, are often as large as the
top of a man’s thumb. ‘This diforder moft frequently
makes its appearance in the Summer, while the Indians
are out on the barren ground; and though it is by no

means reckoned dangerous, yet it is fo obftinate, as not to —

yield to any medicine that has ever been applied to it while
at the Company’s F actory. And as the natives themfelves
never make ufe of any medicines of their own preparing,

Nature alone works the cure, which is never performed in

xX x lefs

338

A, § OUR NEWT Of es E

lefs than twelve or eighteen months ;. and fome of them are
troubled with this difagreeable and loathfome diforder for
years before they are perfectly cured, and then a dark
livid mark remains on thofe parts of the fkin which have
been affected, for many years afterwards, and in fome

during life.

When any of the principal Northern Indians die, it. is
generally believed that they areconjured to death, either by.
fome of their own countrymen, by fome of the Southern
Indians, or by fome of the Ef{quimaux: too frequently
the fufpicion falls on the latter tribe, which is the grand
reafon of their never being at peace with thofe poor and
diftrefled people. For fome time paft, however, thofe
Efguimaux who trade with our loops. at Knapp’ s Bay,
Navel’s Bay, and Whale Cove, are in perfe& peace and.
friendfhip with the Northern, Indians; which is entirely.
owing to the protection they have for feveral years paft re-
ceived be the Chiefs at the Company’s. Fort at Churchill
River*. But thofe of. that tribe who. live. fo far to. the

North,

* In the Summer of 1756, a party of Northern Indians lay in wait at
Knapp’s Bay till the Mloop had failed out of the harbour, when they fell-on the
poor Efquimaux, and killed every foul. Mr. John Bean, then Mafter of the
floop, and fince Mafter of the Trinity yacht, with all his crew, heard the
guns very plain; but did not know the meaning or-reafon of it till the Sum-
mer following, when he found the fhocking remains of more than forty
Efquimaux, who had been murdered in that cowardly manner; and for no
other reafon but becaufe two principal Northern Indians had died in the

preceding Winter,
No

NORTHERN OCEAN.

North, as not to have any intercourfe with our veffels, very
often fall a facrifice to the fury and fuperftition of the
? Northern

No Efquimaux were feen at Knapp’s Bay for feveral years after; and thofe
who trade there at prefent have undoubtedly been drawn from the Northward,
fince the above unhappy tranfaction; for the convenience of being nearer the
woods, as well.as being in the way of trading with the floop that calls there
annually. It is to be hoped that the meafures taken by the Governors at
Prince of Wales’s Fort of late years, will effectually prevent any fuch cala-
mities happening in future, and by degrees be the means of bringing about a
lafting, friendly, and reciprocal intereft between the two nations.

Notwithftanding the pacific and friendly terms which begin to dawn between
thefe two -tribes at-Knapp’s Bay, Navel’s Bay, and Whale Cove, farther
North hoftilities continue, and moft barbarous murders are perpetrated: and
the only protection the Efquimaux have from the fury of their enemies, is their
‘remote fituation in the Winter, and their refiding chiefly on iflands and penin-

fulas in Summer, which renders them lefs liable to be furprifed during that

feafon. But even this fecluded life does not prevent the Northern Indians
from haraffing them greatly, and at times they are fo clofely purfued as to be
obliged to leave moft of their goods and utenfils to be deftroyed by their
enemy ; which muft.be a great lofs, as thefe cannot be replaced but at the ex-
pence of much time and labour ; and the want of them in the mean time mutt
create much diftrefs both to themfelves and their families, as they can feldom
procure any part of their livelihood without the affiftance of a confiderable

apparatus.

In 1756, the Efquimaux at Knapp’s Bay fent two of their youths to Prince
of Wales’s Fort in the floop, and the Summer following they were carried
back to their friends, loaded with prefents, and much pleafed with the treat-
ment they received while at the Fort. In 1767, they again fent one from
Knapp’s Bay and one from Whale Cove ; and though during their ftay at the
Fort they made a confiderable progrefs both in the Southern Indian and the
Englith languages, yet thofe intercourfes have not been any ways advantageous
to the Company, by increafing the trade from that quarter. In fact, the only

ae) d fatisfaction

or?

Ai JOO RN BY Ro pre

Northern Indians; whoare by no means a bold or warlike
people; nor can I think from experience, that they are par-
ticularly guilty of committing a&s of wanton cruelty on
any other part of the human race befide the Efquimaux.
Their hearts, however, are in general fo unfufceptible of
tendernefs, that they can view the deepeft diftrefs in thofe

who are not immediately related to them, without the leaft

emotion ; not even half fo much as the generality of man-
kind feel for the fufferings of the meaneft of the brute
creation. I have been prefent when one of them, imitating
the groans, diftorted features, and contracted pofition, of a

fatisfaction they have found for the great expence they have from time to time,
incurred, by introducing thofe ftrangers, is, that through the good conduct of
their upper fervants at Churchill River, they have at length fo far humanized the
hearts of thofe two tribes, that at prefent they can meet each other ina friendly
manner; whereas, a few years fince, whenever they met, each party preme-
ditated the deftruétion of the other; and what made their war more fhocking:
was, they never gave quarter: fo that the ftrongeft party always killed the
weakeft, without fparing either man, woman, or child.

It is but a few years ago that the flcop’s crew who annually carried them
all their wants, durft not venture on fhore among the Efquimaux unarmed, for
fear of being murdered; but latterly they are fo civilized, that the Com-
pany’s fervants vifit their tents with the greateft freedom and fafety, are
always welcome, and defired to partake of fuch provifions as they have: and

_ knowing now our averfion from train-oil, they take every means in their

power to convince our people that the victuals prepared for them is entirely
free from it. Buz the fmell of their, tents, cooking-utenfils, and other furni~
ture, is {carcely lefs offenfive than Greenland Dock. However, I have eaten
both fifh «nd venifon cooked by them in fo cleanly a manner, that have re-
lifhed them very much, and partaken of them with a goad appetite.

7 man

NORTHERN OCEAN.

man who had died in the moft excruciating pain, put the
whole company, except myfelf, into the moft violent fit
of laughter.

The Northern Indians never bury their dead, but al-
__ ways leave the bodies where they die, fo that they are fup-

pofed to be devoured by beafts and birds of prey; for
which reafon they will not eat foxes, wolves, ravens, Gc.
unlefs it be through mere neceflity.

The death of a near relation affects them. fo fenfibly,
that they rend all their cloths from their backs, and go
naked, till fome perfons lefs afflicted relieve them. After

the death of a father, mother, hufband, wife, fon, or

brother, they mourn, as it may be called, for a whole
year, which they meafure by the moons and’ feafons,
Thofe mournful periods are not diftinguifhed by any par-
ticular drefs, except that of cutting off the hair; and
the ceremony confifts in almoft perpetually crying. Even
when walking, as well as at all other intervals from fleep,
eating, and converfation, they make an odd howling
noife, often repeating the relationfhip of the deceafed.
But as this is in a great meafure mere form and cuftom,
fome of them have a method of foftening the harfhnefs of
the notes, and bringing them out in a more mufical tone
than that in which they fing their fongs. When they refle&
ferioufly on the lofs of a good friend, however, it has

fuch an effect on them for the prefent, that they give an
uncommon

343

342

Ay OUR NEW CO BTA E

uncommon loofe to their grief. At thofe times they

feem to fympathife (through cuftom) with each other’s
afflictions fo much, that I have often feen feveral {cores
of them crying in concert, when at the fame time not
above half a dozen of them had any more reafon for fo
doing than I had, unlefs it was to preferve the old cuftom,
and keep the others in countenance. ‘The women are re-

_ markably obliging on fuch occafions; and as no reftric-

tion is laid on them, they may with truth be faid to cry
with all their might and main; but in common converfa-
tion they are obliged to be very moderate.

They have a tradition among them, that the firft per-
fon upon earth was a woman, who, after having been
fome time alone, in her refearches for berries, which
was then her only food, found an animal like a dog, —
which followed her to the cave where the lived, and foon
grew fond and domeftic. ‘This dog, they fay, had the
art of transforming itfelf into the fhape of a handfome
young man, which it frequently did at night, but as the
day approached, always refumed its former fhape; fo
that the woman looked on all that paffed on thofe occa-

- fions as dreams and delufions, ‘Thefe tranformations were

foon productive of the confequences which at prefent
generally follow fuch intimate connexions between the
two fexes, and the mother of the world began to ad-
vance in her pregnancy.

Not |

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Not long after this happened, a man of fuch a furprifing
height that his head reached up to the clouds, came to
level the land, which at that time was a very rude mals ;
and after he had done this, by the help of his walking-
ftick he marked out all the lakes, ponds, and rivers, and
immediately caufed them to be filled with water. He
then took the dog, and tore it to pieces; the guts he threw
into the lakes and rivers, commanding them to become
the different kinds of fifh; the flefh he difperfed over
the land, commanding it to become different kinds of
beafts and land-animals; the fkin he alfo tore in {mall
pieces, and threw it into the air, commanding it to become
all kinds of birds; after which he gave the woman and
_ her offspring full power to kill, eat, and never f{pare, for
that he had commanded them to multiply for her ufe
in abundance. After this injunction, he returned to
the place whence he came, and has not: been heard of

fince.

Rexicion has not as yet begun to dawn among the
Northern Indians; for though their conjurors do in-
deed fing fongs, and make long fpeeches, to fome beafts
and birds of prey, as alfo to imaginary beings, which
they fay affift them in performing cures on the fick,
yet they, as well as their credulous neighbours, are ut-
terly deftitute of every idea of practical religion. It is

true, fome of them will reprimand their youth for talking.
difre~.

O44

A. P/O WORON EW Fo) Tae

diftefpeatfully of particular beafts and birds; but it is
done with fo little energy, as to be often retorted back
in derifion. Neither is this, nor their cuftom of not kill-

-ing wolves and quiquehatches, univerfally obferved, and
‘thofe who do it can only be viewed with more pity and

contempt than the others; for 1 always found it arofe
merely from the greater degree of confidence which they
had in the fupernatural power of their conjurors, which
induced them to believe, that talking lightly or difrefpeat-
fully of any thing they feemed to approve, would mate-
rially affe@ their health and happinefs in this world: and
I never found any of them that had the leaft idea of fu-
turity. Matonabbee, without one exception, was a man

of as clear ideas in other matters as any that I ever faw:

he was not only a perfect mafter of the Southern Indian

language, and their belief, but could tell a better ftory of
our Saviour’s birth and life, than one half of thofe who
call themfelves Chriftians ; yet he always declared to me,
that neither he, nor any of his countrymen, had an idea of
a future ftate. Though he had been taught to look on

things of this kind as_ufelefs, his own good fenfe had
caught him to be an advocate for univerfal toleration; and —
I have feen him feveral times affift at fome of the moft
facred rites performed by the Southern Indians, apparently
with as much zeal, as if he had given as much credit to
them as they did: and with the fame liberality of fenti-
ment he would, I am perfuaded, haye aflifted at the altar

of

NORG’HE RN O GE AN.

of a Chriftian church, or in a Jewith fynagogue; not with
a view to reap any advantage himfelf, but merely, as he
obferved, to aflift others who believed in fuch ceremonies.

Being thus deftitute of all religious control, thefe people
have, to ufe Matonabbee’s own words, ‘ nothing to do but
‘ confult their own intereft, inclinations, and paffions; and
“to pafs through this world with as much eafe and con-
‘¢ tentment as poflible, without any hopes of reward, or
‘¢ painful fear of punifhment, in the next.” In this ftate
of mind they are, when in profperity, the happieft of
mortals; for nothing but perfonal or family calamities can
difturb their tranquillity, while misfortunes of the leffer
kind fit light on them. Like moft other uncivilized
people, they bear bodily pain with great fortitude, though
in that refpeét I cannot think them equal to the Southern

Indians.

Old age is the greateft calamity that can befal a North-
ern Indian; for when he is paft labour, he is neglected, and
treated with great difrefpe&, even by his own children.
They not only ferve him laft at meals, but generally give
him the coarfeft and worft of the victuals: and fuch
of the fkins as they do not chufe to wear, are made

up in the clumfieft manner into clothing for their aged .

parents; who, as they had, in all probability, treated
their fathers and mothers with the fame negle@, in
Xi ¥ their

one

x

ay

, A FOURNEY TO°THE

theif turns, fubmitted patiently to their lot, even with-
outa murmur, ‘knowing it to ‘be the common misfor=
tune attendant on old age; fo that they may ‘be faid to.
wait patiently for the melancholy hour when, being no

longer capable of walking, they are to be left’ iebehie to

ftarve, and perifh for want. This, however fhocking and
unnatural it may appear, is neverthelefs fo common, that,
among ‘thofe people, one half at leaft of the aged perfons
of both. fexes oe die 1 in _ miferable doom 4

The Northern uit call the Aurora reer Bdiahiny .
that‘is, Deer*: and° when that meteor is very bright,
they fay that deer is plentiful in that part of the atmo-
fphere; but they have never yet extended their ideas fo.
far as to entertain hopes of tafting thofe celeftial animals, -

Befide this filly notion, they are very faperftitious with
refpect to the exiftence.of feveral kinds of fairies, called by
them Nant-e-na, whom they frequently fay they fee, and,
who are fuppofed by them to inhabit the different elements

* Their ideas in this refpect are founded on a principle one would not.
imagine, -Experience has fhewn.them, that when a hairy deér-fkin is brifkly
ftroked with the hand in a dark night, it will emit many fparks of eleétrical:
fire, as the back of a cat will, The idea which the Southern Indians have of
this meteor is equally romantic, though more pleafing, as they believe it to be
the {pirits of their departed friends dancing in the clouds; and when the Aurora:
Borealis is remarkably bright, at which time they vary moft in colour, form,
and fituation, they fay, their deceafed friends are very merry.

of

NORTHERN OCEAN.

of earth, fea, and air, according to their feveral qualities.
To one or other of thofe fairies they ufually attribute any
change i in their circumftances, either for the better or worfe;
and as they are led into this way of thinking entirely by
the art of the conjurors, there is no fuch thing as any ge-
neral mode of belief; for thofe jugglers differ fo much from

each other in their accounts of thefe beings, that thofe who

Believe any thing they fay, have little todo but change their
opinions according to the will and caprice of the conjuror,
who is almoft daily relating fome new whim, or extraor-

dinary event, which, he fays, has been revealed to him in a
dream, or by fome of his favourite fairies, eee ona hunt~

ing excurfion.

Be

348

A.JOURNEY MOorntese

Some Account of MatonaszEe, and of the eminent Services
which he rendered to his Country, as well as to the
Hudfon's Bay Company.

MaTonazsee was the fon of a Northern Indian bya flave
woman, who was formerly bought from fome Southern In=
dians who came to Prince of Wales’s Fort with furrs, &c..
This match was made by Mr. Richard Norton, then Go-
vernor, who detained them at and near the Fort, for the
fame purpofe as he did thofe Indians called Home-guard. As
to Matonabbee’s real age, it is impoflible to be particular ;
for the natives of thofe parts being utterly unacquainted
with letters, or the ufe of hieroglyphics, though their
memories are not lefs retentive than thofe of other nations,
cannot preferve and tranfmit to pofterity the exa@ time
when any particular event happens. Indeed, the utmoft.
extent of their chronology reaches no farther, than to fay,.,
My fon, or my daughter, was born in fuch a Governor’s
time, and fuch an event happened during fuch a per-.
fon’s life-time (though, perhaps, he or fhe has been dead.
many years). However, according to. appearance, and
fome corroborating circumftances, Matonabbee was born
about the year one thoufand feven hundred and thirty-fix,
or one thoufand feven hundred and thirty-feven ; and his
father dying while he was young, the Governor took the

boy,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

boy, and, according to the Indian ae adopted him
as his fon.

Soon after the death of Matonabbee’s father, Mr. Norton
went to England, and as the boy did not experience from
his fucceffor the fame regard and attention which he had
been accuftomed to receive from Mr. Norton, he was foon
taken from the Factory by fome of his father’s relations, and
continued with the Northern Indians till Mr. Ferdinand.

Jacobs fucceeded to the command of Prince of Wales’s Fort,
in the year one thoufand feven hundred and fifty-two; when

out of regard to old Mr. Norton, (who was. then dead,)

Mr. Jacobs took the firft opportunity that offered to detain.
-Matonabbee at the Factory, where he was for feveral years

employed in the hunting-fervice with fome of the Com-

ee s fervants, particularly with the late Mr. Mofes Nor-:

ton *, (fon of the late Governor,) and Mr, Magnus John-
fton+.

In the courfe of his long ftay at and near the Fort, it is.
no wonder that he fhould have become perfe& mafter of
_the Southern Indian language, and made fome progrefs in
the Englifh. It was during this period, that he gained.
a knowledge of the Chriftian faith; and he always. de-.
elared; that it was too deep and intricate for his compre-
henfion, Though he was a perfec bigot with refpeé to

* Afterwards Governor.. + Mafter of the Churchill floop.
the

349

350°

A fOURNEY TO THE.

the arts and tricks of Indian jugglers, yet he could by: ie!

‘means be imprefled with a belief of any part of our reli+

gion, nor of the religion of the Southern Indians, who
have as firm a belief in a future ftate as any people under

the Sun. He-had fo much natural good fenfe and libe-:

rality of fentiment, however, as not to think that he had
a right to ridicule any particular feé on account of their
religious opinions, On the contrary, he declared, that he
held them all equally in efteem, but was determined, as
he came into the world, fo he would go out of it, without
profefling any religion at all. Notwithftanding his averfion
from religion, I have met with few Chriftians who pof-
feffed more good moral qualities, or fewer bad ones.

It is impofible for any man to have been more punctual
in the performance of a promife than he was; his fcrupulous-
adherence to truth and honefty would have done honour
to the moft enlightened and devout Chriftian, while his
benevolence and univerfal humanity to all the human
race *, according to his abilities and manner of life, could ©

not

* I muft here obferve, that when we went to war with the Efquimaux at |
the Copper River in July 1771, it was by no means his propofal: on the
contrary, he was forced into it by his countrymen. For I have heard him
fay, that when he firft vifited that river, in company with 1-dot-le-aza,
they met with feveral Efquimaux; and fo far from killing them, were very
friendly to them, and made them fmall prefents of fuch articles as they could
beft fpare, and that would be of moft ufe tothem. It is more than probable
that the two bits of iron found among the plunder while I was there, were
part of thofe prefents. There were alfo a few long beads found among thofe

people,

NORTHERN: OCEAN.

not be! exceeded by the moft: itluftitops perfonage now on
record ;/and to.add to his other good qualities, he was the
only: badian that Isever faw, except one, who was not
err of backbiting and oe his vas ocoe

In flature, ge iles was fae. ie common fe,
being nearly fix feet high+ ; and, ‘except’ that his-neck ‘was
rather (though not much) too-thort, -he was one of the
fineft. and beft proportioned men that lever faw. Jn
complexion he was dark, like the other Northern Indians,
but his face was not disfigured by that ridiculous cuftom
of marking the cheeks with three or four. black lines.
His features were regular and agreeable, and yet fo ftrongly
marked and expreflive, that they formed a complete index
of his mind; which, as he never intended to deceive or
diflemble, “he never wifhed to conceal. In converfation:
he was eafy, lively, and agreeable, but exceedingly modeft;
and.at ‘table, the noblenefs-and elegance of his- manners
might have beén-admired. by the firft’ perfonages in the

world; for to the vivacity of a Frenehman, and the

peopleg but quite different from any that’ the Hudfon’s Bay Company had
ever fent to the Bay: fo that the only probable way they could have come by
them, muft have been by an intercourfe with fome of their tribe, who. had
dealings with the Danes in Davis’s Straits. It is very. probable, however,
they might have paffed through many hands before they reached this remote
place. . Had.they had an immediate intercourfe. with the Efquimaux in Davis’s
Straits, it is naturab to fppofe that iron would not have been fo fcarce among
them as it feemed to be; indeed the diftance is too great to admit of it.
+ I ‘have feen two Northern Indians who meafured fix feet three inches ;
and one, fixfeet fourinches.. ~
i . fincerity

gsr

2
tr

A JOURNEY TO THE

fincerity of an Englifhman, he added the gravity and
noblenefs of a Turk ; all fo happily blended, as to render
his company and converfation univerfally pleafing to thofe
who underftood either the Northern or Southern Indian
languages, the only languages in which he could converfe.

He was remarkably fond of Spanifh wines, though he

never drank to excefs; and as he would not partake of
{pirituous liquors, however fine in quality or plainly mixed,
he was always mafter of himfelf. As no man is exempt
from frailties, it is natural to fuppofe that as a man he had
his fhare; but the greateft with which I can charge him,
is jealoufy, and that fometimes carried him beyond the
bounds of humanity. |

In his early youth he difcovered talents equal to the
greateft tafk that could poflibly be expected from an In-
dian. Accordingly Mr. Jacobs, then Governor at Prince —
of Wales’s Fort, engaged him, when but a youth, as an
Ambaflador and Mediator between the Northern Indians
and the Athapufcow Tribe, who till then had always been
at war with each other. In the courfe of this embaffy
Matonabbee not only difcovered the moft brilliant and folid
parts, but fhewed an extenfive knowledge of every ad-
vantage that could arife to both nations from a total fup-
preflion of hoftilities; and at times he difplayed fuch in-
{tances of perfonal courage and magnanimity, as are rarely
to be found among perfons of fuperior condition and rank.

He

NORTHERN OCEAN.

He had not penetrated far into the country of the Atha-
pufcow Indians, before he came to feveral tents with in-
habitants; and there, to his great furprife, he found Cap-
tain Keelfhies, (a perfon frequently mentioned in this
Journal *,) who was then a prifoner, with all his family
and fome of his friends, the fate of whom was then
undetermined; but through the means of Matonabbee,
though young enough to have been his fon, Keelfhies
and a few others were releafed, with the lofs of his effects
and all his wives, which were fix in number. Matonab-
bee not only Kept his ground after Keelfhies and his {mall
party had been permitted to return, but made his way
into the very heart of the Athapufcow country, in order
to have a perfonal conference with all or moft of the
principal inhabitants. The farther he advanced, the more
occafion he had for intrepidity. At one time he came to
five tents of thofe favages, which in the whole contained
fixteen men, befides their wives, children, and fervants,
while he himfelf was entirely alone, except one wife and
a fervant boy. The Southern Indians, ever treacherous,
and apparently the more kind when they are premedita-
ting mifchief, feemed to give him.a hearty welcome, ac-
cepted the tenders of peace and reconciliation with appa-
rent fatisfacion, and, as a mark of their approbation,
each tent in rotation made a feaft, or entertainment, the

* The fame perfon was at Prince of Wales’s Fort when the French arrived
on the 8th of Auguft 1782, and faw them demolifh the Fort.

LZ : fame

353

354

Ai JOUR NE WTOP HE

fame night, and invited him to partake; at the laft of
which they had concerted a {cheme to murder him. He
was, however, fo perfect a mafter of the Southern Indian
language, that he foon difcovered their defign, and told
them, he was not come in a hoftile manner, but if they

- attempted any thing of the kind he was determined to {elk

his life as dear as poffible. On hearing this, fome of
them ordered that his fervant, gun, and {now-fhoes, (for
it was Winter,) fhould be brought into the tent and fe-
cured; but he fprung from his feat, feized his gun and
{now-fhoes, and went out of the tent, telling them, if
they had an intention to moleft him, that was the proper
place where he could fee his enemy, and be under no
apprehenfions of being fhot cowardly through the back.
** T am fure (faid he) of killing two or three of you,
‘¢ and if you chufe to purchafe my life at that price, now
*< is the time; but if otherwife, let me depart without
‘* any farther moleftation.’’ They then told him he was
at liberty to go, on condition of leaving his fervant; but to
this he would not confent. He then rufhed into the tent

and took his fervant by force from two men; when find-

ing there was no appearance of farther danger, he fet
out on his return to the frontiers of his own country, and.
from thence to the Factory.

The year following he again vifited the Athapufcow
country, accompanied by a confiderable number of chofen
men.

NORTHERN OCEAN,

men of his own nation, who wete fo far fuperior to fuch
fmall parties of the Southern Indians as they had met,
that they commanded refpec&t wherever they came; and
having traverfed the whole country, and converfed with all
the principal men, peace and friendfhip were apparently
re-eftablifhed. Accordingly, when the Spring advanced
the Northern Indians began to difperfe, and draw out to
the Eaftward on the barren ground; but Matonabbee, and a
few others, chofe to pafs the Summer in the Athapufcow
country. As foon as the Southern Indians were acquainted

with this defign, and found the number of the Northern.

Indians fo reduced, a fuperior number of them dogged
and harafied them the whole Summer, with a view to
furprife and kill them’ when afleep ; and with that view
twice actually approached fo near their tents as fifty yards,
But Matonabbee told them, as he had done when alone,
. that though there were but few of them, they were all
determined to fell their lives as dear as poflible: on which
the Southern Indians, without making any reply, retired ;
for no Indians in this country have the courage to face
their enemies when they find them apprized of their ap-
proach, and on their guard to receive them.

Notwithftanding all thefe difcouragements and great
dangers, Matonabbee perfevered with courage and refo-
lution to vifit the Athapufcow Indians for feveral years
fucceflively ; and at length, by an uniform difplay.of his

pacific difpofition, and by rendering a long train of good
LZ 2 offices

355

356

AC TOUR WERE MO CH

offices to thofe Indians, in return for their treachery
and perfidy, he was fo happy as to be the fole inftrument
of not only bringing about a lafting peace, but alfo of
eftablifhing a trade and reciprocal intereft between the
two nations.

After having performed this great work, he was pre-
vailed upon to vifit the Copper-mine River, in company
with a famous leader, called I-dat-le-aza ; and it was from
the report of thofe two men, that a journey to that part
was propofed to the Hudfon’s Bay Company by the late
Mr. Mofes Norton, in one thoufand feven hundred and
fixty-nine. In one thoufand feven hundred and feventy
he was engaged as the principal guide on that expedition ;
which he performed with greater punctuality, and more
to my fatisfaction, than perhaps any other Indian in all that
country would have done. At his return to the Fort in one
thoufand feven hundred and feventy-two, he was. made head
of all the Northern Indian nation; and continued to render
great fervices to the Company during his life, by bringing
a greater quantity of furrs to their Factory at Churchill
River, than any other Indian ever did, or ever willdo. His
laft vifit to Prince of Wales’s Fort was in the Spring of one —
thoufand feven hundred and eighty-two, and he intended
to have repeated it in the Winter following; but when
he heard that the French had deftroyed the Fort, and
carried off all the Company’s fervants, he never afterwards
seared his head, but took an opportunity, when no one

fufpected

“NORTHERN OCEAN

fufpected his intention, to hang himfelf. This is the
more to be wondered at, as he is the only Northern In-
dian who, that I ever heard, put an end to his own exift-
-ence. The death of this man was a great lofs to the
-Hudfon’s Bay Company, and was attended with a moft
_ melancholy fcene; no lefs than the death of fix of his
-wives, and four children, all of whom were ftarved to

‘death the fame Winter, in one thoufand feven hundred.

and ci a dae

C'H AvP,

357

358 A JOURNEY TO THE

Cy yp A Pt oe y-

An Account of the principal Quadrupeds found in the Northern Parts of
Hudfon's Bay——The Buffalo, Moof2,. Mufe-ox, Deer, and Beaver.
—A capital Miftake cleared up refpetiing the We-was-kifb.

Animals with Canine Tecth.——~T he Wolf—~Fomes of various co- ©
lours——Lynx, or Wild Cat—Palar, or White. Bear—Black Bear—
Brown Bear—Wolverene—Otter—Fackafo—Wejack—Shkunk—Pine
Mariin---Ermine, or Stote.

Animals with Cutting Teeth. The Mufk Beaver—Porcupine—

Varying Hare---American Hare—Common Sguirrel—Ground Squirrel—
Mice of various Kinds,—and the Caftor Beaver.

The Pinnated Quadrupeds with finlike Feet, found in Hudfon’s Bay,
are but three in number, viz. the Warlus, or Sea-Horfe,—Scal,—and
Sea-Unicorn.

The Species of Fifo found in the Salt Water of Hudfon’s Bay are alfo few
in number; being the Black Whale—White Whale—Salmon—and
Kepling.

Shellfifh, and empty Shells of feveral kinds, found on the Sea Coaft

near Churchill River.

Frogs of various fizes and colours ; alfo.a great variety of Grubbs, and other
Infetts, always found in a frozen flate during Winter, but when ex-
pyYfed to the heat of a flow fire, are foon re-animated.

An Account of fome of the principal Birds found in the Northern Paris of
Ludfon’s Bay ; as well thofe that only migrate there in Summer, as thofe

that are known to brave the coldeft Winters: Eagles of various
kinds

NORTHERN OCEAN.
_ Kinds—Hawks of various fixes and plumage—White or Snowy Owl-—-

—Gray or mottled Owl—Cob-a-dee-cooch—Raven—Cinerious Crow—
Wood Pecker—Ruffed Groufe—Pheafant—Wood Partridge—Willow
Partridge—Rock Partridge — Pi igcon—Red-breafied Thrufb---Gro/-
beak—Snow Bunting—Wi Pep Bunting—Lapland Finch, two
_ forts —Lark—T itmoufe—Swallow—Martin— Hopping Crane---Brown
Crane—Bitron—Carlow, two forts—Fack Snipe—Red Godwart---
Plover—Black Gullemet—Northern Diver—Black-throated Diver—
Red-throated Diver—White Gull—Grey Gull—Black-head—FPellican--=
Goofander—Swans of two fpecies—Common Grey Goofe—Canada Goofe
—White or Snow Goofe—Blue Goofe—Horned Wavy—Laughing Goof
—Barren Goofe—Brent Goofe—Dunter Goofe—Bean Goofe.
The Species of Water-Fowl ufually called Duck, that refort to thofe
| Larts annually, are in great variety; but thofe that are moft eftcemed
are, the Mallard Duck ATi Tease, Duck,—Wigeon, and Teal..

Of the Vegetable Produétions as far North as Churchill River, particularly

Goofeberry

the mop ufeful; fuch as the Berry-bearing Bufbes, &c.

—Cranberry — Heathberry — Dewater-berry — Black Currans—Funi-=.

per-berry—Partridge-berry—Strawberry — Eye-berry--— Blue-berry,—
and a fimall fpecies of hips.

Burridge—Coltsfoot—Sorrel---Dandelion,

Wifh-a-capucca— Facka/bey-puck— Mos of various Soris— Grafs of
feveral kinds--and Veiches. :

The Trees found fo far North near the Sea, confif? only of Pines—-

Funiper— Small Poplar—Bufb-willows---and Creeping Birch.

EFORE I conclude this work, it may not be im-.
proper to give a fhort account of the principal Animals
that frequent the high Northern latitudes, though moit of

them. are found alfo far to the Southward, and confe-
6 quently

359

A FOURNERME TO UTA e
quently in much milder climates. The buffalo, mufk-
ox, deer, and the moofe, have been already defcribed in ©
this Journal. I fhall therefore only make a few remarks
on the latter, in order to rectify a miftake, which, from
wrong information, has crept into Mr. Pennant’s Arétic

Zoology. In page-21 of that elegant work, he claffes the

Moofe with the We-was-kifh, though it certainly has not
any affinity to it. )

The We-was-kifh, or as fome (though improperly) call _
it, the Wafkeffe, is quite a different animal from the moofe,
being by no means fo large in fize. The horns of the We-
was-kifh are fomething fimilar to thofe of the common deer,
but are not palmated in any part. They ftand more up-
tight, have fewer branches, and want the brow-antler. The
head of this animal is fo far from being like that of the
Moofe, that the nofe is fharp, like the nofe of a fheep:
indeed, the whole external appearance of the head is not
very unlike that of an afs. The hair is ufually of a
fandy red; and they are frequently called by the Englifh
who vifit the interior parts of the country, red deer.
Their flefh is tolerable eating ; but the fat is as hard as
tallow, and if eaten as hot as poflible, will yet chill in
fo fhort a time, that it clogs the teeth, and fticks to the
roof of the mouth, in fuch a manner as to render it very
difagreeable. In the Spring of one thoufand feven hun-
dred and feventy-five, I had thirteen fledge-loads of this
meat brought to Cumberland Houfe in one day, and alfo
two of the heads of this animal unfkinned, but the horns

were

NORTHERN OCEAN.

were chopped off; a proof of their wearing them the

whole Winter. They are the moft ftupid of all the deer
kind, and frequently make a fhrill whiftling, and quiver- _

ing noife, not very unlike the braying of an afs, which
direéts the hunter to the very {pot where they are. They
generally keep in large herds, and when they find plenty
of pafture, remain a long time in one place. Thofe deer
are feldom an objet of chace with the Indians bordering
on Bafquiau, except when moofe and other game fail.
Their fkins, when dreffed, very much refemble that of
the moofe, though they are much thinner, and have this
peculiar quality, that they will wath as well as fhamoy
leather ; whereas all the other leathers and pelts dreffed by
the Indians, if they get wet, turn quite hard, unlefs great
care be taken to keep conftantly rubbing them while
drying.

The perfon who informed Mr. Pennant that the we-
was-kifh and the moofe are the fame animal, never faw
one of them; and the only reafon he had to fuppofe it,
was the great refemblance of their fkins: yet it is rather
ftrange, that fo indefatigable a collector of Natural Hiftory
as the late Mr. Andrew Graham, fhould have omitted
making particular enquiry about them: for any foreign
Indian, particularly thofe that refide near Bafquiau, could
eafily have convinced him to the contrary.

34 Animals

362

Wolves.

A JOURNEY |TO THE

Animals with Canine Teeth.

Wouves are frequently met with in the countries Weft

of Hudfon’s Bay, both on the barren grounds and among

the woods, but they are not numerous ; it is very uncom-
mon to fee more than three or four of them in a herd.
Thofe that keep to the Weftward, among the woods, are
generally of the ufual colour, but the greateft part of
thofe that are killed by the Efquimaux are perfectly white.
All the wolves in Hudfon’s Bay are very fhy of the human
race, yet when fharp fet, they frequently follow the In-
dians for feveral days, but always keep at a diftance.
They are great enemies to the Indian dogs, and frequently
kill and eat thofe that are heavy loaded, and cannot
keep up with the main body. ‘The Northern Indians have

formed ftrange ideas of this animal, as they think it does

not eat its viduals raw; but by a fingular and wonderful
fagacity, peculiar to itfelf, has a method of cooking them
without fire. The females are much fwifter than the
males; for which reafon the Indians, both Northern and
Southern, are of opinion that they kill the greateft part of
the game. This cannot, however, always be the cafe;
for to the North of Churchill they, in general, live a for-
lorn life all the Winter, and are feldom {een in pairs till
the Spring, when they begin to couple; and generally
keep in pairs all the Summer. They always burrow under-
ground to bring forth their young; and though it is na-

10 tural .

NORTHERN OCEAN.

tural to fuppofe them very fierce at thofe times, yet I
have frequently feen the Indians go to their dens, and take
out the young onesand play with them. I never knew a
Northern Indian hurt one of them: on the contrary,
they always put them carefully into the den again; and I
have fometimes feen them paint the faces of the young
Wolves with vermillion, or red ochre.

The Arctic Foxgs are in fome years remarkably plen-
tiful, but generally moft foon the barren ground, near the
fea-coaft. Notwithftanding what has been faid of this
animal only vifiting the fettlements once in five or feven
years, I can affirm there is not one year in twenty. that
they are not caught in greater or lefs numbers at Churchill ;
and I have known that for three years running, not lef
- than from two hundred to four hundred have been caught
each year within thirty miles of the Fort. They always
come from the North along the coaft, and generally make
their appearance at Churchill about the middle of OGober,
but their fkins are feldom in feafon till November; during
that time they are never molefted, but permitted to feed
round the Fort, till by degrees they become almoft do-
meftic. The great numbers of thofe animals that vifit
Churchill River in fome years do not all come in a body,
as it would be impoflible for the fourth part of them to
find fubfiftence by the way; but when they come near
the Fort, the carcafles of dead whales lying along the
fhores, and the fkin and other offal, after boiling the oil,

3A 2 | afford

363

Foxes of
various CO=
tours.

364

Ai MOURN EVO RO InHIE

afford ‘them a plentiful repaft, and prove the means of
keeping them about the Fort till, by frequent reinforce-
ments from the Northward, ee numbers are fo far i in-
creafed as almoft to exceed credibility. :

When their fkins are in feafon, a number of traps and
guns are fet, and the greateft part of them are caught in
one month, though fome few are found during the whole
Winter. I have frequently known near forty killed in one
night within half a mile of Prince of Wales’s Fort; but
this feldom happens after the firft or fecond night. When
Churchill River is frozen over near the mouth, the greateft
part of the furviving white Foxes crofs the river, and dire&

- their courfe to the Southward, and in fome years affemble

in confiderable numbers at York Fort and Severn River.
Whether they are all killed, or what becomes of thofe
which efcape, is very uncertain; but it is well known
that none of them ever migrate again to the Northward. -
Befides taking a trap fo freely, they are otherwife fo
fimple, that I have feen them {hot off-hand while feed-
ing, the fame as fparrows in a heap of chaff, fometimes
two or three ata fhot. This {port is always moft fuccefsful
in moon-light nights; for in the day-time they generally
keep in their holes among the rocks, and under the hol-
low ice at high-water-mark. |
Thefe animals will prey on each other as readily as on
any other animals they find dead in a trap, or wounded
by gun; which renders them fo deftructive, that I have -
known upwards of one hundred and twenty Foxes of dif- |
ferent )

NOR: T HE RN? O QE AN.

ferent colours eaten, and deftroyed in their traps by their
comrades in the courfe of one Winter, within half a
mile of the Fort.

The Naturalifts feem full at a lofs to know their breed-
ing-places, which are doubtlefs in every part of the coaft
they frequent. Several of them breed near Churchill,
and I have feen them in confiderable numbers all along the
Weft coaft of Hudfon’s Bay, particularly at Cape Efqui-
maux, Navel’s Bay, and Whale Cove, alfo on Marble
Ifland; fo that with fome degree of confidence we may
affirm, that they breed on every part of the coaft they in-
habit during the Summer feafon. They generally have
from three to five young at a litter; more I never faw

with one old one. When young they are all over almoft

of a footy black, but as the fall advances, the belly, fides,
and tail turn to a light afh-colour; the back, legs, fome
part of the face, and the tip of ele tail, chaties toa lead

365,

colour; but when the Winter {ets in they become perfe&tly —

white: the ridge of the back and the tip of the tail are the
laft places that change to that colour; and there are few
of them which have not a few dark hairs at the tip of the
tail all the Winter. If taken young, they are eafily do-
mefticated in fome degree, but I never faw one that was
fond of being carefied ; and they are always impatient of
confinement.

Wuire Foxes, when killed at any confiderable diftance
fom the fea coaft, (where they cannot poflibly get any
thing

The White
OX.

366

The Lynx,

or Wild Cat.

The Polar
or White
Bear.

A JQOURNEPVURG TEE

| thing to prey upon, except rabbits, mice, and partridges,)

are far from being difagreeable eating. And on Marble
Ifland I have fhot them when they were equal in flavour
to arabbit; probably owing to their feeding entirely on
eges and young birds ; but 3 near Churchill River they

are as rank as train-oil.

The Lynx, or Witp Cart, is very {earce to the North
of Churchill; but is exactly the fame as thofe which are
found in great plenty to the South Weft. I have obferved
the tracks of this animal at Churchill, and feen them
killed, and have eaten of their flefh in the neighbourhood
of York Fort. The flefh is white, and nearly as good as
that of arabbit. They are, I think, much larger than
that which is defcribed in the Arétic Zoology; they never
approach near the fettlements in Hudfon’s Bay, and are
very deftructive to rabbits: they feldom leave a place

which is frequented by rabbits till pi have nearly killed ©

them all.

The Pouar or Wuite Bear, though common on the
fea-coaft, is feldom found in its Winter retreats by any of
our Northern Indians, except near Churchill River; nor
do I fuppofe that the Efquimaux fee or kill any of them
more frequently during that feafon; for in the courfe of
many years refidence at Churchill River, I fearcely ever
faw a Winter fkin brought from the Northward by the
floop. Probably the Efquimaux, if they kill any, may

; relerve

NORTHERN O@ CE AN.

referve the fkins for their own ufe; for at that feafon their
hair is very long, with a thick bed of wool at the bottom,
and they are remarkably clean and white. The Winter is
the only feafon that fo oily a fkin as the Bear’s can pof-
fibly be cleaned and drefled by thofe people, without
sreafine the hair, which is very unpleafant to them; for
though they eat train-oil, &c. yet they are as careful as
pofiible to keep their clothes from being greafed with it.
To drefs one of thofe greafy fkins in Winter, as foon as taken
from the beaft, it is ftretched out on a fmooth patch of
fnow, and there flaked down, where it foon freezes as
hard as a board: while in that ftate, the women fcrape
off all the fat, till they come to the very roots of the hair.
It is fometimes permitted to remain in that pofition for a
confiderable time; and when taken from the fnow, is
hung up in the open air. The more intenfe the froft, the
greater is its drying quality; and by being wafted about
by the wind, with a little {craping, it in time becomes
perfectly fupple, and both pelt and hair beautifully white.
Drying deer, beaver, and otter fkins, in this manner render
their pelts very white, but not fupple; probably owing
to the clofe texture and thicknefs of their fkins: whereas
the fkin of the bear, though fo large an animal, is re-

markably thin and fpungy *
Buack

* Ie is rather fingular that the Polar Bears are feldom found on the land
during the Winter, on which account it is fuppofed they go out on the ice, and
keep near the edge of the water during that feafon, while the females that are
pregnant feek thelter at the fkirts of the weous and dig themfelves dens in the

deepeft

367

368

The Black
Bear.

A- TOURNEY WO°THE

Brack Bears are not very numerous to the North Weft
of Churchill. Their manner of life is the fame as the
reft of the {pecies, though the face of the country they

deepeft drifts of {now they can find, where they remain in a ftate of ina¢tivity,
and without food, from the latter end of December or January, till the latter
end of March; at which time they leave their dens, and bend their courfe to-
wards the fea with their cubs; which, in general, are two in number. Not-
with{tanding the great magnitude of thofe animals when full grown, yet their
young are not larger than rabbits, and when they leave their dens, in March,
I have frequently feen them not larger than a white fox, and their fteps on the
fnow not bigger than a crown-piece, when thofe of their dam meafured near
fifteen inches long, and nine inches broad. They propagate when young, or at
leaft before they are half-grown; for I have killed young females not larger
than a London calf, with milk in their teats; whereas fome of the full grown
ones are heavier than the largeft of our common oxen. Indeed I was once
at the killing of one, when one of its hind feet being cut off at the ankle,
weighed fifty-four pounds. The males have a bone in their penis, as a dog
has, and of courfe unite in copulation; but the time of their courtfhip is, I
believe, not exactly known: probably it may be in July or Auguft, for at thofe
times I have often been at the killing them, when the males were fo attached
to their miftreffes, that after the female was killed, the male would put his
two fore-paws over, and fuffer himfelf to be fhot before he would quit her.
I have frequently feen and killed thofe animals near twelve leagues from the
land; but as the Fall of the year advances, they are taught by inftinct to feek
the fhore. ‘Though fuch a tremendous animal, they are very fhy of coming
near a man; but when clofely purfued in the water, they frequently attack the
boat, feize the oars, and wreft them from the hands of the ftrongeft man,
feeming defirous to get on board; but the people on thofe occafions are always
provided with fire-arms and hatchets, to prevent fuch an unwelcome vifit.
The flefh of this animal, when killed in Winter, (if not too old,) is far from
being unpleafant eating; and the young cubs, in the Spring, are rather deli-
cate than otherwife. The tits of the females are only two in number, and are
placed between the fore-legs. The beft Drawing of this Animal I have feen,
is that done by Mr. Webber, among the Plates of Cook's laft Voyage.

inhabit,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

inhabit, differs widely from the more mild climates. In
Summer they proul about in fearch of berries, &c. and
as the Winter approaches, retire to their dens, which are
always under-ground; and generally, if not always, on the
fide of a fmall hillock. The Bears that inhabit the South-
ern parts of America are faid to take up their Winter
abode in hollow trees; but I never faw any trees in my
Northern travels, that could afford any fuch fhelter.

The places of retreat of thofe Bears that burrow under-
ground are eafily difcovered in Winter, by the rime that
hangs about the mouth of the den; for let the fnow be
ever fo deep, the heat and breath af the animal prevents
the mouth of the den from being entirely clofed up. They
generally retire to their Winter-quarters before the fnow is of
any confiderable depth, and never come abroad again (unlefs
difturbed) till the thaws are confiderable, which in thofe
high latitudes is feldom till the latter end of March, or
the beginning of April; fo that the few Black Bears that
inhabit thofe cold regions may be faid to fubfaft for four
months at leaft without food. I have been prefent at the
killing two of them in Winter; and the Northern Indian
method is fimilar to that faid to be in ufe among the
Kamtfchatkans ; for they always blocked up the mouth of
the den with logs of wood, then broke open the top
of it, and killed the animal either with a {pear or a
gun; but the latter method is reckoned both cowardly
and wafteful, as it is not poflible for the Bear either to
make its efcape, or to do the Indians the leaft injury.

a.5 Some-

369

“ia

A JOURNEY :TO THE
Sometimes they put a fnare about the Bear’s neck, and draw
up his head clofe to the hole, and kill him with a hatchet.
Though thofe animals are but fcarce to the North of

Churchill, yet they are fo numerous between York Fort
and Cumberland Houfe, that in one thoufand feven hun-

dred and feventy-four I faw eleven killed in the courfe of

one day’s journey, but their flefh was abominable. This
was in the month of June, long before any fruit was ripe,
for the want of which they then fed entirely on water in-
feéts, which in fome of the lakes we croffed that day were

in aftonifhing multitudes *

The method by which ae ‘Bears catch thofe infe@s is
by fwimming with their mouths open, in the fame manner
as the whales do, when feeding on the fea-fpider. There
was not one of the Bears killed that day, which had
not its ftomach as full of thofe infeéts (only) as ever a
hog’s was with grains, and when cut open, the ftench
from them was intolerable. I have, however, eaten of
fome killed at that early feafon which were very good ;

* The infects here fpoken of are of two kinds; the one is nearly black, its
fkin hard like a beetle, and not very unlike a grafshopper, and darts through ~
the water with great eafe, and with fome degree of velocity. The other fort
is brown, has wings, and is as foft as the common cleg-fly. ‘The latter are
the moft numerous; and in fome of the lakes fuch quantities of them are
forced into the bays in gales of wind, and there preffed together in fuch mul-
titudes, that they are killed, and remain there a great nuifance; for I have
feveral times, in my inland voyages from York Fort, found it fcarcely poffible
to land in fome of thofe bays for the intolerable ftench of thofe infects, which
in fome places were lying in putrid maffes to the depth of two or three feet.
It is more than probable, that the Bears occafionally feed on thefe dead infeéts.

but

NORTHERN OCEAN.

but they were found among the woods, far from the places
where thofe infects haunt, and had fed on grafs and other
herbage. After the middle of July, when the berries begin

to ripen, they are excellent eating, and fo continue till

January or February following; but late in the Spring

they are, by long fafting, very poor and dry eating.

The Southern Indians kill great numbers of thofe Bears
at all feafons of the year; but no encouragement can pre-
vent them from fingeing almoft every one that is in good
condition: fo that the few fkins they do fave and bring
to the market, are only of thofe which are fo poor that
their flefh is not worth eating *. In faa, the fkinning of
a Bear fpoils the meat thereof, as much as it would do to
fkin a young porker, or a roafting pig. The fame may be
faid of fwans (the fkins of which the Company have
lately made an article of trade); otherwife thoufands of
their fkins might be brought to market annually, by the
Indians that trade with the Hudfon’s Bay Company’ s fer~
vants at the different fettlements about the Bay. —

Brown Bears are, I believe, never found in the North-
Indian territories; but I faw the fkin of an enormous

* It is common for the Southern Indians to tame and domefticate the young
cubs; and they are frequently taken fo young that they cannot eat. On thofe
occafions the Indians oblige their wives whohave milk in their breafts to fuckle
them. And one of the Company’s fervants, whofe name is Ifaac Batt, wil-
ling to be as great a brute as his Indian companions, abfolutely forced one of
his wives, who had recently loft her infant, to fuckle a young Bear.

2B 2 srizzled —

aye

The Brown

_ Bear.

372

The Wolvee
rene,

AY FOURNEW TO "Tme

grizzled Bear at the tents of the Efquimaux at the Copper
River ; and many of them are faid to breed not very Te-
mote from that part.

The Wotverene is common in the Northern regions,

as far North as the Copper River, and perhaps farther.

They are equally the inhabitants of woods and barren.
grounds ; for the Efquimaux to the North of Churchill
kill many of them when their fkins are in excellent feafon:
a proof of their being capable of braving the fevereft cold.
They are very flow in their pace, but their wonderful fa-
gacity, ftrength, and acute fcent, make ample amends for
that defe&t ; for they are feldom killed at any feafon when.
they do not prove very fat: a great proof of their being
excellent providers. With refpect to the fiercenefs of this
animal which fome affert, I can fay little, but I know
them to be beafts of great courage and refolution, for I
once faw one of them take poffeflion of a deer that an In-
dian had killed, and though the Indian advanced within
twenty yards, he would not relinquith his claim to it, but
fuffered himfelf to be fhot ftanding on the deer. I once
faw a fimilar inftance of a lynx, or wild cat, which alfo
fuffered itfelf to be killed before it would relinquifh the
prize. ‘The Wolverenes have alfo frequently been feen to
take a deer from a wolf before the latter had time to be-
gin his repaft after killing it. Indeed their amazing
ftrength, and the length and fharpnefs of their claws,
render them capable of making a ftrong refiftance againft
any

NORTHERN OCEAN.

any other animal in thofe parts, the Bear not excepted.
As a proof of their amazing ftrength, there was one at
Churchill fome years fince, that overfet the greateft part of
a large pile of wood, (containing a whole Winter’s firing,
that meafured upwards of feventy yards round,) to get at
fome provifions that had been hid there by the Company’s
fervants, when going to the Factory to {pend the Chriftmas
holidays. The fa& was, this animal had been lurking
about in the neighbourhood of their tent (which was about
eight miles from the Factory) for fome weeks, and had
- committed many depredations on the game caught in their
traps and f{nares, as well as eaten many foxes that were killed
by guns fet for that purpofe; but the Wolverene was
too cunning to take either trap or gun himfelf. The
people knowing the mifchievous difpofition of thofe ani-
mals, took (as they thought) the moft effe@tual method
to fecure the remains of their provifions, which they did
not chufe to carry home, and accordingly tied it up in
bundles and placed it on the top of the wood-pile, (about
two miles from their tent,) little thinking the Wolverene
would find it out; but to their great furprife, when they
returned to their tent after the holidays, they found the
pile of wood in the ftate already mentioned, though fome
of the trees that compofed it were as much as two men
could carry. ‘The only reafon the people could give for
the animal doing fo much mifchief was, that in his at-
tempting to carry off the booty, fome of the {mall parcels of

provifions had fallen down into the heart of the pile, and
fooner.

373

374 KM APOUR MEY MDS) HE

fooner than lofe half his prize, he purfued the above

method till he had accomplifhed his ends... The bags of

flour, oatmeal, and peafe, though of no ufe to him,

he tore all to pieces, and fcattered the contents about

on the fhow; but every bit of animal food, confifting

of beef, pork, bacon, venifon, {alt geele, partridges, Sc.

to a confiderable amount, he carried away. Thefe ani--
mals are great enemies to the Beaver, but the manner of
life of the latter prevents them from falling into their

clutches fo frequently as many other animals; they ‘com-

mit va{t depredations on the foxes during the Summer,

while the young ones are fmall; their quick fcent direéts

them ‘to their dens, and if the entrance be too fmall; their

ftrength enables them to widen it, and go in and kill the

mother and all her cubs. In fen they are the moft de-

ftru€tive animals in this country *

The Otter. Orrers are pretty plentiful in the rivers to the North
of Churchill, as far as latitude 62°; farther North I do
not recolleé& to have feen any. In Winter they generally
frequent thofe parts of rivers where there are falls or rapids,
which do not freeze in the coldeft Winters; becaufe in

* Mr. Graham fays they take their lodgings in the clefts of rocks, or in
hollow trees. The former I acknowledge, but I believe that neither Mr,
Graham nor any of the Company’s fervants ever faw an inftance of the latter.
In fact, during all my travels in the interior parts of Hudfon’s Bay, I never
faw a hollow tree that was capable of affording fhelter to any larger animal than
martins, jackafhes, or wejacks; much lefs the quiquehatch or bear, as fome.
have afferted.

5 | fuch

NORTHERN OCEAN.
fuch fituations they are moft likely to find plenty of fith,

and the open water gives them a free admiffion to the fhore,

where they fometimes go to eat the fifh they have caught ;
but moft commonly fit on the ice, or get on a great ftone
in the river. They are frequently feen in the very depth
of Winter at a confiderable diftance from any known
open water, both in woods and on open plains, as well as
on the ice of large lakes; but it is not known what has
Jed them to fuch places: perhaps merely for amufement,
for they are not known to kill any game on the land
during that feafon. If purfued when among the woods
in Winter, (where the fnow is always light and deep,)
they immediately dive, and make confiderable way under
it, but are eafily traced by the motion of the fnow above
them, and foon overtaken. The Indians kill numbers of
them with clubs, by tracing them in the fhow; but fome
of the old ones are fo fierce when clofe purfued, that they
turn and fly at their purfuer, and their bite is fo fevere that
it is much dreaded by the Indians. Befides this method.
of killing them, the Indians have another, which is equally
fuccefsful; namely, by concealing themfelves within a
reafonable gun-fhot of the Otters ufual landing-places, and
waiting their coming out of the water. This method is
more generally practifed in moon-light nights. They alfo
fhoot many of them as they are fporting in the water, and:
fome few are caught in traps.

The Otters in this, as well as every other part of the

bay, vary in fize and colour, according to age and feafon. |

In

376

The Jack-
afh.

A JOURNEY To’ te #

In Summer, when the hair is very fhort, they are al-
moft black, but as the Winter advances, they turn to a
beautiful datk auburn, except a {mall {pot under the chin,
which is of afilver gray. This colour they retain all the
Winter; but late in the Spring (though long before they
fhed their coat) they turn to a dull rufty brown; fo that
a perfon who is acquainted with thofe changes can tell to
a great nicety, by looking at the fkins, (when offered for
fale,) the very time they were killed, and pay for them
according to their value. The number of their young is
various, from three to five or fix. They unite in copu-
lation the fame as a dog, and fo do every other animal
that has a bone in the gems. 1 will here enumerate all of
that defcription that I know of in thofe parts, viz. bears
of all forts, wolves, wolvereens, foxes, martins, otters,
wejacks, jackafhes, fkunks, and ermines *.

Jacxasu. ‘This animal is certainly no other than the
leffer Otter of Canada, as its colour, fize, and manner of
life entirely correfpond with the defcription of that animal
in Mr. Penant’s Arétic Zoology. They, like the larger
Otter, are frequently found in Winter feveral miles from
any water, and are often caught in traps built for martins.
They are fuppofed to prey on mice and partridges, the
fame as the martin; but when by the fide of rivers or

* The Otter is very fond of play; and one of their favourite paftimes is,
to get on a high ridge of fnow, bend their fore-feet backward, and flide down
the fide of it, fometimes to the diftance of twenty yards.

‘Serecks,

NORTHERN OCEAN.
creeks, they generally feed on fifh. They vary fo much

in fize and colour, that it was very eafy for Mr. Pennant
to have miftaken the {pecimen fent home for another ani-
mal. They are the eafieft to tame and domefticate of an

animal I know, except a large fpecies of field-mice, called
the Hair-tailed Moufe ; for in a very fhort time they are fo
fond, that it is fearcely poffible to keep them from climb-
ing up one’s legs and body, and they never feel themfelves
happier than when fitting on the fhoulder; but when

angry, or frightened, (like the fkunk,) they emit a very dif-

agreeable {mell. ‘They fleep very much in the day, but
prow] about and feed in the night; they are very fierce
when at their meals, not fuftering thofe to whom they are

moft attached to take it from them. I have kept feveral of
them, but their over-fondnefs made them troublefome, as.

they were always in the way ; and their fo frequently emit-

ting a difagreeable fmell, rendered them quite difgufting..

Though the Wejacx * and Sxunx are nevér found. in
the Northern Indian country, yet I cannot help obferving
that the foetid {mell of the latter has not been much. ex-
agegerated by any Author. When I was at Cumberland

* Mr. Graham afferts that this animal frequents the banks of creeks, and
feeds on fith; but thefe are by:no means their ufual haunts. I have, however.
no doubt, but when they find fifh on the land, that they may eat it, like other
carnivorous animals; but they are as fhy of taking the water as a domettic cat.
They climb trees, and catch partridges, mice, and rabbits, with as much eafe
as amartin. ‘They are eafily tamed and domefticated, are very. fond.of. tea-
leaves, have a pleaiant mufky fmell, and are very playful.

3 ¢ Eoufe,,

377

The-We-
jack, and
Skunk.

Ax) JO ORNIEX | €O THe

Houfe, in the Fall of one thoufand feven hundred and
feventy-four, fome Indians that were tenting on the plant-
ation killed two of thofe animals, and made a feaft of
them ; when the {pot where they were finged and sutted
was fo impregnated with that naufeous {mell which they

emit, that after a whole Winter had elapfed, and the fhow

The Pine
Martin.

The Ermiue,
or Stote.

had thawed away in the Spring, the {mell was ftill into-
lerable. Iam told, however, that the flefh is by no means

tainted with the {mell, if-care be taken in gutting, and

taking out the bag that contains this furprifing efHuvia, and
which they have the power of emitting at pleafure; but
I rather doubt their being capable of ejecting their urine
fo far asis reported; I do not think it is their urine which
contains that peftilential effluvia, for if that was the cafe,
all the country where they frequent would be fo fcented
with it, that neither man nor beaft could live there with
any degree of comfort.

The Common Pine Martin is found in moft parts of
this country, and though very {carce in what is abfolutely
called the Northern Indian territory, yet by the Indians
{trolling toward the borders of the Southern Indian country,
are killed in great numbers, and annually traded for at
Churchill Factory.

The Ermine, or SToTE, is common in thofe parts, but
generally more plentiful on the barren ground, and open
plains or marfhes, than in the woods ; probably owing to

the

NORTHERN OCEAN.

the mice being more numerous in the former fituations than
in the latter. In Summer they are of a tawney brown, but
in Winter of a delicate white all.over, except the tip of
the tail, which is of a glofly black. They are, for their
fize, the ftrongeft and moft courageous animal I know ;
as they not only kill partridges, but even attack rabbits
with great fuccefs. They fometimes take up their abode in
the out-offices and provifion-fheds belonging to the Fac-
tories; and though they commit fome depredations, make

ample amends by killing great numbers of mice, which

are very numerous and deftructive at moft of the fettle-
ments in the Bay. I have taken much pains to tame and
domefticate this beautiful animal, but never could fuc-
ceed ; for the longer I kept it the more reftlefs and im-
patient it became.

Animals with Cutting Teeth.

The Musk Rat, or MusquasH; or, as Naturalifts call

it, the Musx Braver; ; is common in thofe parts; generally

ae ae ponds and deep fwamps that do not freeze
dry in Winter. The manner of life of this fpecies of ani-
mals is peculiar, aud refembles that of the Beaver, as they
are in fome refpeéts provident, and build houfes to thelter
themfelves from the inclemency of the cold in Winter; but
inftead of making thofe houfes on the banks of ponds or
fwamps, like the Beaver, they generally build them on the
ige-as {gon as it is fkinned over, and at a confiderable

a 2 diftance

379

The Muff
Rat..

AL JOURN EVE TO Tne

‘diftance from the fhore; always taking care to keep a hole

open in the ice to admit them to dive for their food, which
chiefly confifts of the roots of grafs: in the Southern
parts of the country they feed much on a well-known
root, called Calamus Aromaticus. The materials made

-ufe of in building their houfes are mud and egrafs, which

they fetch up from the bottom. It fometimes happens
in very cold Winters, that the holes in their houfes freeze
over, in fpite of all their efforts to keep them open. When
that is the cafe, and they have no provifions left in the
houfe, the ftrongeft preys on the weakeft, till by degrees
only one is left out of a whole lodge. I have feen feveral
inftances fufficient to confirm the truth of this affertion ;
for when their houfes were broke open, the fkeletons of
feven or eight have been found, and only one entire ani-
mal. ‘Though they occafionally eat fifh and other animal
food, yet in general they feed very clean, and when fat are
good eating, particularly when nicely finged, fealded, and
boiled. They are eafily tamed, and foon grow fond; are
very cleanly and playful, and {mell exceedingly pleafant
of mufk; but their refemblance to a Rat is fo great, that
few are partial to them. Indeed the only difference be-
tween them and a common Rat, exclufive of their fuperior
fize, is, that their hind-feet are large and webbed, and
the tail, inftead of being round, is flat and fealy.
Though I have before faid, that the Mufk Beaver
generally build their houfes on the ice, it is not always
the cafe; for in the Southern parts of the country, par-
ticularly

—_

NW.OR Ti ERIN: © € FE AN:

ticularly about Cumberland Houfe, I have feen, in fome
of the deep fwamps that were over-run with rufhes and
long grafs, many {mall iflands that have been raifed by
the induftry of thofe animals; on the tops of which they
had built their houfes, like the beaver, fome of which were

very large. The tops of thofe houfes are favourite breed-'

ing-places for the geefe, which bring forth their young
brood there, without the fear of being molefted by foxes,
or any other deftructive animal, except the Eagle.

Porcupines are fo fearce to the North of Churchill

River, that I do not recolle& to have feen more than fix

during almoft three years refidence among the Northern
Indians. Mr. Pennant obferves in his Aric Zoology,
that they always have two at a time; one brought forth
alive and the other ftill-born*; but I never faw an in-
ftance of this'kind, though in different parts of the coun-
try I have feen them killed in all ftages of pregnancy.
The flefh of the Porcupine is very delicious, and fo much
efteemed by the Indians, that they think it the greateft
luxury that their country affords. The quills are in great
requeft among the women ; who make them into a variety
of ornaments, fuch as fhot-bags, belts, garters, bracelets,
&c. Their mode of copulation is fingular, for their.

* This information was given to Mr. Pennant from the authority of Mr. |

Graham; but the before-mentioned account of feeing them killed in all tages
of pregnancy, when no fymptoms of that kind appeared, will, I hope, be
fufficient to clear up that miftake.

quills

The Porcus
pine.

Foxes of
various Co-
jours.

Varying
Hares.

A JOURNEY TO THE

quills will not permit them to perform that office in the
ufual mode, like other quadrupeds. To remedy this in- _
convenience, they fometimes lie on their fides, and meet
in that manner; but the ufual mode is for the male to lie
on his back, and the female to walk over him, (begin-
ning at his head,) till the parts of generation come in
conta@. They are the moft forlorn animal I know;
for in thofe parts of Hudfon’s Bay where they are moft
numerous, it is not common to fee more than one in a
place. They are fo remarkably flow and ftupid, that our
Indians going with packets from Fort to Fort often fee
them in the trees, but not having occafion for them at that
time, leave them till their return; and fhould their abfence
be a weck or ten days, they are fure to find them within a
mile of the place where they had feen them before,

Foxes of various colours are not fearce in thofe parts ;
but the natives living fuch a wandering life, feldom kill
many. It is rather ftrange that no other {pecies of Fox,
except the white, are found at any diftance from the
woods on the barren ground ; for fo long as the trade has
been eftablifhed with the Efquimaux to the North of
Churchill, I do not recolle& that Foxes of any other co-
lour than white were ever received from them.

The Varyine Harzs are numerous to the North of
Churchill River, and extend as far as latitude 72°, pro-

bably farther. They delight moft in rocky and ftony

places,

NO RTH E ROW 70 GE A‘N.

places, near the borders of woods; though many of them
_brave the coldeft Winters on entire barren ground. In Sum-
mer they are nearly the colour of our Englifh wild rabbit ;
but in Winter affume a moft delicate white all over, except
the tips of the ears, which are black. They are, when full
grown and in good condition, very large, many of them
weighing fourteen or fifteen pounds; and if not too old, are
good eating. In Winter they feed on long rye-grafs and the
tops of dwarf willows, but in Summer eat berries, and dif-

ferent forts of {mall herbage. They are frequently killed —

on the South-fide of Churchill River, and feveral have been

known to breed near the fettlement at that piseds«+ A hey. -

muft multiply very faft, for when we evacuated Prince of
Wales’s Fort in one thoufand feyen hundred and eighty-
two, it was rare to fee one of them within twenty or thirty
miles of that place; but at our return, in one thoufand
feven hundred and eighty-three, we found them in fuch
numbers, that it was common for one man to kill two or
three in a day within half a mile of the new fettlement.
But partly, perhaps, from fo many being killed, and partly
from the furvivors being fo frequently difturbed, they
have fhifted their fituation, and are at prefent as {carce near
the fettlement as ever. The Northern Indians purfue a
fingular method in fhooting thofe Hares; finding by long

experience that thefe animals will not bear a dire& ap-

proach, when the Indians fee a hare fitting, they walk -

round it in circles, always drawing nearer at every revo-
lution, till by degrees they get within gun-fhot. The

5 middle |

383

384

The Ame-

rican Hare.

A JOURNETITOUTOE

middle of the day, if it be clear weather, is the beft
time to kill them in this manner; for before and after
noon, the Sun’s altitude being fo fmall, makes a man’s
fhadow fo long on the fnow, as to frighten the Hare be-
fore he can approach near enough to kill it. The fame
may be faid of deer when on open plains, who are fre-
quently more frightened at the iene fhadow than at the
man himéfelf. .

The American Harss, or, as they are called in Hudfon’s
Bay, Raszits, are not plentiful in the Eaftern parts of
the Northern Indian country, not even in thofe parts that
are fituated among the woods; but to the Weftward,
bordering on the Southern Indian country, they are in
fome places pretty numerous, though by no means equa!:
to what has been reported of them at York Fort, and fome
other fettlements in the Bay..

The furr of thofe animals, when killed j in the beft part
of the feafon, was for many years entirely negle&ed by
the furriers; for fome time paft the Company have or-
dered as many of their fkins to be: fent home as can: be
procured; they are but of {mall value:

The flefh of thofe Hares is generally more efteemed than
that of the former. They are in feafon all the Winter ;
and though they generally feed on the brufli of pine and
fir during that feafon, yet many of the Northern Indians
eat the contents of the ftomach. They are feldom fought |
after in Summer, as in that feafon they are not efteemed

good.

NORTHERN | OCEAN.

good eating ; but as the Fall advances they are, by feed-
ing on berries, &c. moft excellent. In Spring they fhed
their Winter coat, and during the Summer are nearly the
colour of the Englifh wild rabbit, but as the Winter: ad-
vances they become nearly white. In thick weather they
are eafily fhot with the gun ; but the moft ufual method of
killing them is by fnares, fet nearly in the manner defcribed
by Dragge in the Firft Volume of his North Weft Paffage.

The Common Squirrets are plentiful in the woody parts
of this country, and are caught by the natives in confider-
able numbers with fnares, while the boys kill many of
them with blunt-headed arrows. The method of fnar-
ing them is rather curious, though very fimple, as it con-
fifts of nothing more than fetting a number of {nares all
round the body of the tree in which they are feen, and ar-
ranging them in fuch a manner that it is fcarcely poffible
for the {quirrels to defcend without being entangled in one
of them. This is generally the amufement of the boys.
Though fmall, and feldom fat, yet they are good eating.

The beauty and delicacy of this animal induced me te
attempt taming and domefticating fome of them, but with-

out fuccefs; for though feveral of them were fo familiar as
to take any thing out of my hand, and fit on the table where
I was writing, and play with the pens, @c. yet they
never would bear to be handled, and were very mif-
chievous; gnawing the chair-bottoms, windew-curtains,
fathes, &c, to pieces. They are an article of trade in the
| as, Company's

385

The Com-
mon Squit-
rel,

386

TheGround
Squirrel,

lice of va-
mous kinds.

A) JOWR WEY D108 Pa ¥

Company’s flandard, but the greateft part of their fkins,
being killed in Summer, are of very little value.

The Grounp-Squrrreus are never found in the woody
parts of North America, but are very plentiful on the
barren ground, to the Nerth of Churchill River, as far
as the latitude 7x°, and probably much farther. In-fize
they are equal to the American Grey Squirrel, though.mose
beautiful in colour. They generally burrow among the
rocks and under great ftones, but fometimes on the fides
of fandy ridges; and are fo provident in laying up @
Winter’s ftock during the Summer, that they are feldom
feen on the furface of the: fnow in Winter. They gene-
rally feed on-the tufts of grafs, the tender tops: of dwarf
willows, &c. and:are-for the moft part exceedingly fat, and
good eating: They are‘eafily tamed; and foon grow fond;
by degrees they will bear handling as well as a cat; are
exceeding cleanly, very playful, and by no means fo
reftlefs and impatient of: confinement as- the Common.

Squirrel:.

Mice are in great plenty and variety in all parts of
Hudfon’s Bay ; the marfhes being inhabited by one fpe+
cies, and the dry ridges by ancther. The Shrew Moufe is
frequently found in Beaver houfes during Winter, where
they not only find a warm habitation, but alfo pick up a
comfortable livelihood from the {feraps left by the Beaver.
Moft of the other {pecies build or make. nefts of dry grafs,

| of

WOR THERMN, OCEAN.

of fuch a fize and thicknefs, that when covered with fnow,
they muft be fufficiently warm. They all feed on grafs
in general, but will alfo eat animal food when they can
get it. The Hair-tailed Moufe is the largeft in the
Northern parts of the Bay, being little inferior in fize to
acommonrat. They always burrow under ftones, on dry
ridges; are very inoffenfive, and fo eafily tamed, that if
taken when full-grown, fome of them will in a day or two
‘be perfectly reconciled, and are fo fond of being handled,
that they will creep about your neck, or into your bofom.
In Summer they are grey, and in Winter change to white,
but are by no means fo beautiful as a white ermine. At
that feafon they are infefted with multitudes of {mall lice,
not a fixth part fo large as the mites in a cheefe; in
fa&t, they are fo {mall, that at firft fight they only ap-
pear like reddifh-brown duft, but on clofer examination
are all perceived in motion. In one large and beautiful ani-
mal of this kind, caught in the depth of Winter, I found
thofe little vermin fo numerous about it, that almoft
every hair was covered with them as thick as ropes with
onions, and when they approached near the ends of the
hair they may be faid to change the moufe from white to
a faint brown. At that time I had an excellent micro-
{cope, and endeavoured to examine them, and to afcer-
tain their form, but the weather was fo exceedingly cold,
that the glaffes became damp with the moifture of my
breath before I could get a fingle fight. The hind-feet

of thefe Mice are exactly like thofe of a Bear, and the
ab 2 - fore-

387

288

The Wal-

rus,

aA POURNEV TSO TPE

fore-feet are armed with a horny fubftance, (that I never faw

in any other fpecies of the Moufe,) which is wonderfully
adapted for fcraping away the ground where they with to

take up their abode. They are plentiful on fome of the

ftony ridges near Churchill FaGtory, but never approach
the houfe, or any of the out-offices. From appearances

- they are very local, and feldom {tray far from their habi-

tations even in Summer, and in Winter they are feldom
feen on the furface of the fnow; a great proof of their
being provident in Summer to lay by a ftock for that
feafon.

Pinnated Quadrupeds.

With refpeét to the Pinnated Quadrupeds with fin-like
feet, there are but few fpecies in Hudfon’s Bay. The
Walrus, or Sea-Horfe, and Seals, are the only ones. that
I know.

The Wa.rus are numerous about Merry and Jones’s
Iflands, but more fo on a {mall ifland called Sea-Horfe
Ifland, that lies in the fair way going to Whale Cove. In
July one thoufand feven hundred and fixty-feven, when on:
my voyage to the North of Churchill River, in pafi-
ing Sea-Horfe Hland, we faw fuch numbers of thofe ani-
mals lying on the fhore, that when fome f{wivel guns
loaded with ball were fired among them, the whole
beach feemed to be in motion. The greateft part of them
plunged into the water, and many of them fwam round

7 the

NORTHERN OCEAN

the veffel within mufket-thot. Every one on board ex-
erted their fkill in killing them, but it was attended with
fo little fuccefs, that the few which were killed funk to

the bottom, and thofe which were mortally wounded made
off out of our reach.

With what propriety thofe animals are called Horfes,, I
cannot fee; for there is not the leaft refemblance in any
one part. Their bodies, fins, @c. are exadtly like thofe
‘ef an enormous Seal, and the head is not very unlike that
animal, except that the nofe is much broader, to give

room for the two large tufks that projec from the upper

jaw. ‘Thofe tufks, and their red fparkling eyes, make
them have a very fierce and formidable appearance.

They are generally found in confiderable numbers,.

which indicate their love of fociety ; and their affection

for each other is very apparent, as they always flock round.
thofe that are wounded, and when they fink, accompany
them to the bottom, but foon: rife to the furface, and.

make a hideous roaring, and of all amphibious animals,

“they are at times the leaft fenfible of danger from man that

T know..

They often attack {mall boats merely through wanton-
nefs, and not only put the people in great confufion, but
fubje& them to great danger; for they always aim at
ftaving the boat with their tufks, or endeavour to get in,
but are never known to-hurt the people. In the year one

thoufand feven hundred and fixty-fix fome of the floop’s
crew,

389

$99

A JOURNEY, TOLT RE

‘crew, who annually fail to the N orth to trade with the
Efquimaux, were attacked by a great number of thofe

animals ; and notwithftanding their utmoft endeavours to
keep them off, one more daring than the reft, though a
{mall one, got in over the ftern, and after fitting and look-
ing at the people fome time, he again plunged into the

_ water to his companions. At that inftant another, of an

enormous fize, was getting in over the bow; and every
other means proving ineffectual to prevent fuch an unwel-
come vifit, the bowman took up a gun, loaded with
goofe-fhot, put the muzzle into the Horfe’s mouth,
and {hot him dead; he immediately funk, and was fol-
lowed by all his companions. ‘The people then made the
beft of their way to the veffel, and juft arrived before the
Sea-Horfes were ready to make their fecond attack, which
in all probability might have been worfe than the firft, as
they feemed much enraged at the lofs of their companion.

Thofe animals are of various fizes, according to age
and other circumftances; fome are not larger than an old

Seal, but there are thofe among them that are not lefs than

two ton weight.

The fkin and teeth are the moft valuable parts to the
natives; for the fat is hard and grifly, and the fleth coarfe,
black, per tough. |

Thofe animals are feldom found on the conintieene
borders on Hudfon’s Bay, or far up, in bays, rivers, or

inlets, but ufually frequent fmall iflands, and fea-girt

fhoals,

NOR TOHCE RN) OIG EAN.

fhoals, at fome diftance from the main land; but as thofe
places are frozen over for many miles during Winter, it is
natural to think they keep at the edge of the water among
the driving ice during that feafon. They are fuppofed to
feed chiefly on marine plants, and perhaps on fhell-fifh,

for their excrement is exceedingly offenfive.

Seaus of various fizes and colours are common in moft
parts of Hudfon’s Bay, but.moft numerous to the North.
Some of thofe animals are beautifully {peckled, black and
white; others are of a dirty grey. The former are ge-
nerally {mall, but fome of the latter arrive at an amazing

fize, and their {kins are of great ufe to the Efquimaux ;.

as it is of them they cover their canoes, make all their
boot-legs and fhoes, befides many other parts of their
clothing. The Seal-fkins are alfo of great ufe to thofe
people as a fubftitute for cafks,. to: preferve oil, &c. for
Winter ule;

excepted

Befides thefe, the Szea-Unicorn is known to frequent
Hudi{on’s Bay and Straits, but I never faw one of them.
Their horns are frequently purchafed from our friendly
Efquimaux, who probably get them in the way of barter
from thofe tribes that refide more to the North; but I

never.

they are alfo blown full of wind and dried,
and then ufed as buoys on the whale-fifhery. The flefh
and’ fat of the Seal is alfo more efteemed by the Efqui-.
maux than thofe-of. any other marine animal, falmon-net.

391

Sealse:.

Sea- Unie -

corn.,.

392

Black
Whale.

A JOURNEY TO THE

never could be informed by the natives whether their ‘kins

are like thofe of the Whale, or hairy like thofe of the Seal ;

I fuppofe the former.

Species of Fifh.
The Fith that inhabit the falt water of Hudfon’s Bay
are but few:—the Black Whale, White Whale, Salmon,

and a {mall fith called Kepling, are the only feces of
fea-fith in thofe parts *.

The Brack Wuate is fometimes found as far South as
Churchill River, and I was prefent at the killing of three
there; but this was in the courfe of twenty years. To
the Northward, particularly near Marble Ifland, they are
more plentiful; but notwithftanding the Company carried
on a fifhery in that quarter, from the year one thoufand
feven hundred and fixty-five till one thoufand feven hun-
dred and feventy-two, they were fo far from making it
an{wer their expectations, that they funk upwards of
twenty thoufand pounds; which is the lefs to be wondered
at, when we confider the great inconveniencies and expences

* In the Fall of the year 1768, a fine rock cod was drove on fhore in a
high gale of wind, and was eaten at the Governor’s table; Mefirs. William
Wales and Jofeph Dymond, who went out to obferve the tranfit of Venus which
happened on the 3d of June 1769, partook of it ; but I never heard of one
being caught with a hook, nor ever faw an entire fith of that defcription in thofe
parts: their jaw-bones are, however, frequently found on the shores,

they

NORTHERN OCEAN.

they laboured under in fuch an undertaking. For as it
was impofflible to profecute it from England, all the people
employed on that fervice were obliged to refide at their
fettlement all the year at extravagant wages, exclufive of
their maintenance. The harpooners had no lefs than fifty
pounds per annum ftanding wages, and none of the crew
lefs than from fifteen to twenty-five pounds; which, ‘to-
gether with the Captains falaries, wear and tear of their
veffels, and other contingent expences, made it appear on
calculation, that if there were a certainty of loading the
veflels every year, the Company could not clear themfelves.
On the contrary, during the feven years they perfevered in
that undertaking, only four Black Whales were taken near
Marble Ifland; and, except one, they were fo fmall, that
they would not have been deemed payable fifth in the
Greenland fervice*. But the Hudfon’s Bay Company,
with a liberality that does honour to them, though per-
feétly acquainted with the rules obferved in the Greenland
fervice, gave the fame premium for a fucking fith, as for
one of the greateft magnitude,

Wuitt Wuatss are very plentiful in thofe parts, oo
ticularly from Chefterfield’s Inlet to York Fart, or Hay’s

* I have heard that no Whale caught by our Greenland thips is called a
Pay-fith; that is, that no emolument arifes to the harpooner that ftrikes it;
unlefs the longeft blade of the bone, ufually called Whale-bone, meafures fix
feet; whereas thofe killed in Hudfon’s Bay feldom meafured more than four
feet and an half,

3. Ee River,

393

White
Whale,

394

A JOURNEY TO THE

River, on the Weft fide of the Bay ; and from Cape Smith
to Slude River on the Eaft fide. On the Weft coaft they
are generally found in the greateft numbers at the mouths
of the principal rivers; fuch as Seal River, Churchill,

Port Nelfon, and Hay’s Rivers. But the Eaft fide of the

Bay not being fo well known, Whale River is the only
part they are known to frequent in very confiderable num-
bers. Some years ago the Company had a fettlement at this
river, called Richmond Fort; but all their endeavours to
eftablifh a profitable fifhery here proved ineffectual, and
the few Indians who reforted to it with furrs proving very
inadequate to the expences, the Company: determined to
evacuate it. Accordingly, after keeping up this fettle-
ment for upward of twelve years, and finking many thou-
fands of pounds, they ordered it to be burnt, for the
more eafily getting the {pikes and other iron-work. This
was in the year one thoufand feven hundred and fifty-
eight. 3
At the old eftablifhed Fattories on the Weft fide of
the Bay, the Company have been more fuccefsful in the
White Whale fifhery, particularly at Churchill, where fuch
of the Company’s fervants as cannot be employed during
that feafon to more benefit for the Company, are fent on
that duty, and in fome fuccefsful years they fend home
from eight to thirteen tons of fine oil. To encourage a
fpirit of induftry among thofe employed on this fervice,
the Company allows a gratuity, not only to the harpoon-
ers, but to every man that fails in the boats; and this
2 gratuity

NORTHERN OCEAN.

gratuity is fo ample as to infpire them with emulation,
as they well know that the more they kill, the greater will
be their emolument.

_ Satmon are in fome feafons. very numerous on the North
Weft fide of Hudfon’s Bay, particularly at Knapp’s Bay
and Whale Cove. At the latter I once found them fo
plentiful, that had we been provided with a fufficient

number of nets, cafks, and falt, we might foon have

loaded the veffel with them. But this is feldom the cafe,
for in fome years they are fo fcarce, that it is with difh-
culty a few meals of them can be procured during our ftay
at thofe harbours. ‘They are in fome years fo plentiful
near Churchill River, that I have known upward of two
hundred fine fith taken out of four fmall nets in one tide
within a quarter of amile of the Fort; but in other years
they are fo fcarce, that. barely that number have been
taken in upward of twenty nets during the whole feafon,
which generally begins the. latter end of June, and ends
about the middle or latter end of Auguft,

Befide the fifh already mentioned, I know of no other
that inhabits the falt water except the Kertine, which is
a {mall fith about the fize of a fmelt, but moft excellent
eating. In fome years they refort to the fhores near Church-
ill River in fuch multitudes to fpawn, and fuch numbers

of them are left dry among the rocks, as at times to be

2.5 2 quite

395

Salmon.

Kepling.

396

Shell Fith.

A- JOURNEY TO THs

quite offenfive. In other feafons they are fo {carce, that
hardly a meal can be procured. |

The fame remark may be made on almoft every fpecies
of game, which conftitutes the greateft part of the fare
of the people refiding in thofe parts. For inftance,* in

_fome years, hundreds of deer may eafily be killed within a

mile of: York Fort; and in others, there is not one to be
feen within twenty or thirty miles. One day thoufands and
tens of thoufands of geefe are feen, but the next they all
raife flight, and go to the North to breed. Salmon, as I~
have lately obferved, is fo plentiful in fome years at Church-
ill’ River, that it might be procured in any quantity; at
others, fo fcarce as to be thought a great delicacy.

In fa&t, after twenty years refidence in this country, I
am perfuaded that whoever relies much on the produce of
the different feafons, will frequently be deceived, and oc-
cafionally expofe himfelf and men to great want.

To remedy this evil, it is moft prudent for rhéleta in
command to avail themfelves of plentiful feafons, and cure

a fufficient aia of the leaft perifhable — parti-
cularly geele.

Shell Fifb.

SHELL Fisu of a variety of kinds are alfo found in fome
parts of Hudfon’s Bay. Mufcles in particular are in great
abundance on the rocky fhores near Churchill River, and
what is vulgarly called the Periwinkle are very plentiful

on

“NORTHERN OCEAN.

on the rocks which dry at low-water. Small Crabs and
Star-fith are frequently thrown on the fhore by the furf in
heavy gales of wind ; and the empty fhells of Wilks, {mall
Scallops, Cockles, and many other kinds, are to be found
on the beaches in great plenty. The fame may be faid
of the interior parts of the country, where the banks of the
lakes and rivers abound with empty fhells of various kinds ;
but the fifh themfelves have never been difcovered by the
natives, :

Frogs, Grubs, and other Infeés.

Frocs of various colours are numerous in thofe parts
as far North as the latitude 61°. They always frequent
the margins of lakes, ponds, rivers, and {wamps: and as
the Winter approaches, they burrow under the mofs, at a
confiderable diftance from the water, where they remain
in a frozen ftate till the Spring. I have frequently feen
them dug up with the mofs, (when pitching tents in Win-
ter,) frozen as hard as ice: in which ftate the legs are as
eafily broken off as a pipe-ftem, without giving the leaft
fenfation to the ahimal; but by wrapping them up in
warm fkins, and expofing them to a flow fire, they foon
recover life, and the mutilated animal gains its ufual

activity; but if they are permitted to freeze again, they
are paft all recovery, and are never more known to come
to life. The fame may be faid of the various {pecies of

: Spiders,

397

Frogs.-

398

A JOURNEY T O7areE

Spiders and Spiders, and all the Grub kind, which are very humerous -

Grubs.

Eagles.

in thofe parts. I have feen thoufands of them dug up
with the mofs, when we were pitching our tents in the
Winter; all of which were invariably enclofed in a thick
web, which Nature teaches them to-fpin on thofe occa-

fions ; yet they were apparently all frozen as hard as ice.

The Spiders, if let fall from any height ona hard fub-
ftance, would rebound like a grey pea; and all the Grub
kind are fo hard frozen as to be as eafily broken asa piece
of ice of the fame fize ; yet when expofed to a flow heat,
even in the depth of Winter, they will foon come to life,
and in a fhort time recover their ufual motions, ©

Birds.

The feathered creation that refort to thofe parts in the
different feafons are numerous, but fuch as brave the
fevere Winter are but few in number, and fhall be parti-
cularly noticed in their proper places.

Eacuts of feveral forts are found in the country bor-
dering on Hudfon’s Bay during the Summer; but none, -
except the common brown Fifhing Eagle, ever frequent
the Northern parts. They always make their appear-
ance in thofe dreary regions about the latter end of
March or beginning of April, and build their nefts in
lofty trees, in the crevices of inacceflible rocks near the

banks

NORTHERN, OGEAN.

banks of rivers. They lay but two eggs, (which are
white,) and frequently bring but one young. They ge-
nerally feed on fifh, which they catch as they are {wim-
ming near the furface; but they are very deftrudtive
to the mufk rat and hares, as alfo to geefe and ducks,
when in a moulting ftate, and frequently kill young
beaver. Their nefts are very large, frequently fix feet in
diameter; and before their young can fly, are fo provi-
dent, that the Indians frequently take a moft excellent
meal of fifth, flefh, and fowl from their larder. Though

they bring forth their young fo early as the latter end of ©

May, or the beginning of June, yet they never fly till
September ; a little after which they migrate to the South-
ward. They are the moft ravenous of any bird I know;
for when kept in confinement, or in a tame ftate as it
may be called, I have known two of them eat more than
a bufhel of ffhinaday. They are never known to breed
on the barren grounds to the North of Churchill River,
though many of the lakes and rivers in thofe parts abound
with variety of fifh. This is probably owing to the want
of trees or high rocks to build in. The Northern Indians
are very partial to the quill-feathers of the Eagle, as well as
to thofe of the hawk, to wing or plume their arrows with,
out of a fuperftitious notion that they have a greater effect
than if winged with the feathers of geefe, cranes, crows,.
or other birds, that in fa&t would do equally as well.
The fleth of the Eagle is ufually eaten by moft of the In-
dians, but is always black, hard, and fifhy; even the

young -

399

400

Hawks of

various fizes.

A> POUR NER TO ie °

young ones, when in a callow ftate, though the fleth is
delicate. white, are fo rank as to render them very un-
pleafant to fome perfons, except in times of neceflity.

Hawks of various fizes and plumage frequent the dif- )

ferent parts of the country round Hudfon’s Bay during

Summer. Some of thofe Hawks are fo large as to weigh
three pounds, and others fo {mall as not to exceed five or
fix ounces. But the weight of thofe, as well as every
other fpecies of Birds, is no ftandard for the Naturalift to
go by; for at different feafons, and when in want of food,
they are often fearcely half the weight they are when
fat and in good order. Notwithftanding the variety of
Hawks that refort to thofe parts in Summer, I know but
one fpecies that brave the intenfe cold of the long Winters
to the North of Churchill River; and that is what Mr.
Pennant calls the Sacre Falcon. They, like the other
large {pecies of Hawks, prey much on the white groufe
or partridge, and alfo on the American hare, ufually
called here Rabbits. They are always found to frequent
thofe parts where partridges are plentiful, and are detefted
by the fportfmen, as they generally drive all the game off
the ground near their tents ; but, in return, they often drive
thither frefh flocks of fome hundreds. Notwithftanding
this, they fo frequently baulk thofe who are employed on
the hunting fervice, that the Governors generally give a
reward of a quart of brandy for each of their heads. Their
fieth is always eaten by the Indians, and fometimes by the

Englith ;

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Englifh; but it is always black, hard, and tough, and
fometimes has a bitter tafte.

The Indians are fond of taming thofe birds, and fre-
quently keep them the whole Summer ; but as the Winter
approaches they generally take flight, and provide for them-
felves. When at Cumberland Houfe I had one of them,
of which my people were remarkably fond; and as it
never wanted for food, would in all probability have re-
mained with us all the Winter, had it not been killed by
an Indian who did not know it to be tame.

The beautiful fpecies of Wuire or Snowy Own is
common in all parts of Hudfon’s Bay, as far North as the
Copper-mine River. Thefe birds, when flying or fitting,
appear very large, but when killed, feldom weigh more
than three and a half, or four pounds, and fometimes
{earcely half that weight. They generally feed on mice
‘and partridges, and are at times known to kill rabbits.
They are, like the hawk, very troublefome to the fportf-
men; and, contrary to any other bird that I know,
have a great propenfity to follow the report of a gun,
and frequently follow the hunters (as they are ufually
called in Hudfon’s Bay) the whole day. On thofe occa-
fions they ufually perch on high trees, and watch till a
bird is killed, when they fkim down and carry it off before
the hunter can get near it; but in return, the hnnters,
when they fee them on the watch, frequently decoy them
within gun-fhot, by throwing up a dead bird, which

| 3F the

White or
Snowy Owl.

402 |

Grey or
Mottled
Owl.

K JOURNEY (Torr

the Owl feldom refufes to accept; but the fportfman
being fully provided for this vifit, and on his guard, ge-
nerally fhoots them before they can carry off the partridge.
They are, however, fo great a hindrance to thofe em-
ployed on the hunting fervice, that the fame premium is
given for one of their heads as for that of a hawk.

In Winter they are frequently very fat, their flefh deli-
cately white, and generally efteemed good eating, both by
Englifh and Indians. -Thofe Owls always make their nefts

on the ground, generally lay from three to four eggs, but

feldom hatch more than two; and in the extreme North
the young ones do not fly till September. They never
migrate, but brave the coldeft Winters, even on the bar-
ren ground, far remote from any woods; and in thofe
fituations perch on high rocks and ftones, and watch for

their prey.

The fpecies of Grey or Morriep Ow 1 are by no means
fo numerous as the former, are fomething inferior in fize,
and always frequent the woods. They never go in fearch
of their prey in the day-time, but perch on the tops of
lofty pines, and are eafily approached and fhot. Their
food is generally known to be mice and {mall birds, yet
their flefh is delicately white, and nearly as good as a
barn-door fowl; of courfe it is much efteemed both
by the Englifh and Indians. This fpecies of Ow] is called
by the Southern Indians Ho- ms and the former Wap-a~

kee-thow.
Befides

WOR TPHERN, @GEAN.

403

Befides thofe two {pecies af Owls, there is another that os -dee-

remains in Hudfon’s Bay all the year, and is called by the

Indians Cog-a-prE-coocu. It is fo far inferior in fize to
the two former, that it feldom weighs half a pound ; is of
amottled brown, the feathers long, and of a moft delicate
foft and filky quality. In general this fpecies feed on mice,
and birds _they find dead; and are fo impudent at times,
that they light on a par tridge when killed by the hunter,
but not being able to carry it off, are often obliged to
relinquifh the prize. Like the White Owl, at times,

though but feldom, they follow the report of a gun, |

and by fo frequently {kimming round the fport{men,
frighten the game nearly as much as the hawk. They
feldom go far from the woods, build in trees, and lay from
two to four eggs. They are never fat, and their fleth is
eaten only by the Indians.

_ Ravens of a moft beautiful glofly black, richly tinged
with purple and violet colour, are the conftant inhabitants
of Hudfon’s Bay; but are fo far inferior in fize to the
Englifh Raven, that they are ufually called Crows. They
build their nefts in lofty pine-trees, and generally lay four
fpeckled eggs; they bring forth their young fo early as the
latter end of May, or the beginning of June. In Summer
many of them frequent the barren grounds, feveral hun-
dred miles from any woods ; probably invited there by the
multitudes of deer and mufk-oxen that are killed by the
Northern Indians during that feafon, merely for their

a BM 2 3 Me

Ravens,

404

A” POURN ES To: quai

- fins, and who leave their flefh to rot, or be devoured by

beafts or birds of prey. At thofe times they are very fat,
and the fleth of the young ones is delicatély white, and good
eating. But in Winter they are, through neceflity, obliged
to feed on a black mofs that grows on the pine-trees, alfo
on deer’s dung, and excrements of other animals. It is:
true, they kill fome mice, which they find in-the furface
of the fnow, and catch many wounded ‘partridges and
hares; in fome parts of the country they are a great nui-
fance to the hunter, by eating the game that is either
caught in {nares or traps. With all this affiftance, they
are in general fo poor during the fevere cold in Winter, as
to excite wonder how they poffibly can exift.

Their faculty of {cent muft be very acute; for in the
coldeft days in Winter, when every kind of effluvia is al-
moft inftantaneoufly deftroyed by the froft, I have fre-
quently known buffaloes and other beafts killed where not
one of thofe birds were feen; but in a few hours fcores of
them would gather about the fpot to pick up the dung, -
blood, and other offal. An unarmed man may approach
them very near when feeding, but they are fhy of thofe that
have a gun; a great proof that they fmell the gunpowder.
They are, however, frequently fhot by guns fet for foxes ;
and fometimes caught in traps built for martins. Though,
on the whole, they may be called a fhy bird, yet their
neceffities in Winter are fo great, that, like the White

Owl, they frequently follow the report of a gun, keep

prudently ata diftance from the {portfman, and frequently
carry

NORTHERN OCEAN,

earry off many wounded birds. Their quills make moft
excellent pens for drawing, or for ladies to write with.

The Crnzrzous Crow, or, as it is called by the South-
ern Indians, Whifk-e-jonifh, by the Englifh Whitkey-

jack, and by the Northern Indians Gee-za, but as fome

pronounce it, and that with more propriety, Jee-za,.
though claffed among the Crows, is in reality fo {mall,.

as feldom to weigh three oances; the plumage grey,
the feathers very long, foft, and filky, and in general en-
tirely unwebbed, and in fome parts much refembles hair.
This bird is very familiar, and fond of frequenting habita~
tions, either houfes or tents; and fo much given to pil-
fering, that no kind of provifions it can come at, either
frefh or falt, is fafe from its depredation. It is fo
bold as to come into tents, and fit on the edge of the
kettle when hanging over the fire, and fteal victuals out
of the difhes. Itis very troublefome to the hunters, both
Englifh and Indian, frequently following them a whole
day; it will perch on a tree while the hunter is baiting his
martin-traps, and as foon as his back is turned go and
eat the baits. It is a kind of mock-bird, and of courfe
has a variety of notes; it is eafily tamed, but never lives
long in confinement. It is well known to be a pro-
vident bird, laying up great quantities of berries in Sum-
mer for a Winter ftock; but its natural propenfity to
pilfer at all feafons makes it much detefted both by the

8 2 oo Bnghthy

495°

Cinereous
Crow.

406

Wood-
pecker.

Groufe.

Ady OUR NEVA 'D Gm) ee E

Englifh and Indians. It builds its ‘neft in trees, exadly
like that of the blackbird and thrufh; lays four blue

eges, but feldom brings more than three young ones.

I know of only one fort of Woop-Pecxer that frequents

_ the remote Northern parts of Hudfon’s Bay; and this is dif-

tinguifhed by Mr. Pennant by the name of the Golden

Winged Bird; but tothe South Weft that beautiful {pecies of ©

W ood- petace with a fearlet crown is very frequent. The
manner of life of this {pecies is nearly alike, always build-
ing their nefts in holes in trees, and feeding on worms
and infe&ts. They generally have from four to fix young
atatime. They are faid to be very deftructive to fruit-
trees that are raifed in gardens in the more Southern parts
of America; but the want ofsthofe luxuries in Hudfon’s
Bay renders them very harmlefs and inoffenfive birds. The
red feathers of the larger fort, which frequent the interior
and Southern parts of the Bay, are much valued by fome
of the Indians, who ornament their pipe-ftems with them,
and at times ufe them as ornaments to their: children’s
clothing. \ Neither of the two fpecies here mentioned ever
migrate, but are conftant inhabitants of the different cli-
mates in which they are found.

There. are feveral {fpecies of Grousz in the different
parts of Hudfon’s Bay; but two of the largeft, and one
ef them the moft beautiful, mever reach fo far North

3 as

NORTH E RNA (OMIE A Nz

as the latitude 59°: but as I have {een them in great
plenty near Cumberland Houfe, I fhall take the liberty

to defcribe them.

The Rurrep Grouse. This is the moft beautiful of
all that are claffed under that name. They are of a deli-
cate brown, prettily variegated with black and white:
tail large and long, like that of a hawk, which is ufually
of an orange-colour, beautifully. barred with black, cho-
colate, and white; and the tail is frequently expanded
like a fan. To add to their beauty, they have a ruff of
glofly black feathers, richly tinged with purple round the
neck, which they can erect at pleafure: this they fre-
quently do, but more particularly fo when they fpread
their long tail, which gives them a noble appearance. In
fize they exceed a partridge, but are inferior to a pheafant.
In Winter they are ufually found perched on the branches
of the pine-trees; and in that feafon are fo tame as to be
eafily approached, and of courfe readily fhot.

They always make their nefts on the ground, generally
at the root of a tree, and Jay to the number of twelve or
fourteen eggs. In fome of the Southern parts of America
fereral attempts have been made to tame thofe beautiful
birds, by taking their eggs and hatching them under do-
meftic hens, but it was never crowned with fuccefs; for
when but a few days old, they always make their efcape
into the woods, where they probably pick up a fubfift-
ence. Their flefh is delicately white and firm, and

though

407

The Ruffed
Groule.

408 A JOURNEY TO THE

though they are feldom fat, they are always good eating,
and are generally eftemed beft when larded.and roafted, or
nicely boiled with a bit of bacon.
There is fomething very remarkable in thofe birds, and
I believe peculiar to themfelves, which is that of clap-
ping their wings with fuch a force, that at half a mile
diftance it refembles thunder, I have frequently heard
them make that noife near Cumberland Houfe in the
month of May, but it was always before Sun-rife, and
a little after Sun-fet. It is faid by Mr. Barton and
Le Hontan, that they never clap in this manner but in
the Spring and Fall, and I muft acknowledge that I never
heard them in Winter, though I have killed many of
them in that feafon. The Indians informed me they never
make that noife but when feeding, which is very probable ;.
for it is notorioufly known that all the fpecies of Groufe
feed very early in the mornings, and late in the afternoons.
‘This fpecies is called by fome of the Indians bordering on
Hudfon’s Bay, Pus-pus-kee, and by others Pus-pus-cue.
il ings SHARP-TAILED GROUSE, or, as they are called in Hud-
fon’s Bay, Pheafant. Thofe birds are always found in the
Southern parts of the Bay, are very plentiful in the inte-
rior parts of the country, and in fome Winters a few of
them are fhot at York Fort, but never reach fo far North as
Churchill. In colour they are not very unlike that of the
Englifh hen pheafant; but the tail is fhort and pointed,
like that of the common duck; and there is no perceiv-

able

NORTHERN OCEAN.

able difference in plumage between the male and female.

When full-grown, and in good condition, they frequently

weigh two pounds, and though the flefh is dark, yet it
is juicy, and always ‘efteemed good eating, particularly
when larded and roafted. In Summer they feed on berries,
and in Winter on the tops of the dwarf birch and the buds
of the poplar. In the Fall they are tolerably tame, but
in the fevere cold more fhy ; frequently perch on the tops

of the higheft poplars, out of moderate gun-fhot, and

will not fuffer a near approach. They fometimes, when

difturbed in this fituation, dive into the fnow; but the

fportf{man is equally baulked in his expeétations, as they
_. force their way fo faft under it as to raife flight many yards

diftant from the place they entered, and very frequently
in a different direGtion to that from which the fportfman.

expects *. They, like the other fpecies of groufe, make

their nefts on the ground, and lay from ten to thirteen’

eggs. Like the Rufted Groufe, they are not to be tamed,
as many trials have been made at York Fort, but without

fuccefs ; for though they never made their efcape, yet they -
on always died, probably for the want of proper food; for

the hens that hatched them were equally fond of them, as
they could poflibly have been had they been the produce
of their own eggs. This f{pecies of Groufe is called by
the Southern Indians Aw-kis-cow.

* This I affert from my own experience when at Cumberland Houfe.

3G | The

409

410

Wood Par-
tridge,

A JOURNEY TO THE

' The Woop Parrripczs have acquired that name in
Hudfon’s Bay from their always frequenting the forefts
of pines and fir; and in Winter feeding on the bruth of
thofe trees, though they are fondeft of the latter. This

{pecies of Groufe is inferior in fize and beauty to the

Ruffed, yet may be called a handfome bird; the plumage
being of a handfome brown, elegantly {potted with white
and black. The tail is long, and tipped with orange; and
the legs are warmly covered with fhort feathers, but the
feet are naked. They are generally in the extreme with
refpect to fhynefs; fometimes not fuffering a man to come
within two gun-fhots, and at others fo tame that the
fportfman may kill five or fix out of one tree without
fhifting his ftation. They are feen in fome years in con-
fiderable numbers near York Fort. They are very fcarce at
Churchill, though numerous in the interior parts, parti-
cularly on the borders of the Athapufcow Indians country,
where I have feen my Indian companions kill many of them
with blunt-headed arrows. In Winter their flefh is
black, hard, and bitter, probably owing to the refinous
quality of their food during that feafon; but this is not
obferved in the rabbits, though they feed exaéily in the
fame manner in Winter: on the contrary, their flefh is
efteemed more delicate than that of the Englith rabbit.
The Southern Indians call this fpecies of Partridge, Miftick-
a-pethow ; and the Northern Indians call it, Day.

The

NORTHERN OCEAN.

4X

The Wittow Parrripcss have a {trong black bill, with Wittow

{carlet eye-brows, very large and beautiful in the Hlaie, but
lefs confpicuous in the female. In Summer they are brown,
elegantly barred and mottled with orange, white, and
black ; and at that feafon the males are very proud and
handfome, but the females are lefs beautiful, being of one
univerfal brown. As the Fall advances they change toa
delicate white, except fourteen black feathers in the tail;
which are alfo tipped with white; and their legs and feet,
quite down to the nails, are warmly covered with feathers.
In the latter end of September and beginning of Oétober

they gather in flocks of fome Bhmihidides: and proacad from.

the open plains and barren grounds, (where they ufually
breed,) to the woods and brufh-willows, where they hord
together in a ftate of fociety, till difperfed by their.com-
mon enemies, the hawks, or hunters. They are by far the
moft numerous of any of the Groufe fpecies that are found
in Hudfon’s Bay; and in fome places, when permitted to
remain undifturbed for a confiderable time, their number
is frequently fo great, as almoft to exceed credibility. I
fhall by no means exceed truth, if I affert that I have feen
upward of four hundred in one flock near Churchill Rivers
but the greateft number I ever faw was on the North fide
of Port Nelfon River, when returning with a packet in
March one thoufand feven hundred and fixty-eight: at
that time I faw thoufands flying to the North, and the
whole furface of the fnow feemed to be in motion by thofe
that were feeding on the tops of the fhort willows. Sir

| Ge Thomas

artridge.

412

AAJ OUR NEV TOV E

Thomas Button mentions, that when he wintered in Port
Nelfon River in one thoufand fix hundred and twelve,
his crew killed eighteen hundred dozen of thofe birds,
which I have no reafon to doubt; and Mr. Jeremie, for-:
merly Governor at York Fort, when that place was in the

pofieflion of the French, and then called Fort Bourbon,

afferts, that he and feventy-nine others eat no lefs than —
ninety thoufand partridges and twenty-five thoufand hares
in the courfe of one Winter; which, confidering the
quantity of venifon, geefe, ducks, &c. enumerated in his
account, that were killed that year, makes the number fo:
great, that it is fearcely poflible to conceive what eighty
men could do with them; for on calculation, ninety thou-
{and partridges and twenty-five thoufand hares divided by

eighty, amounts to no lefs than_one thoufand one hundred.

and twenty-five partridges, and three hundred and twelve

hares per man. This is by far too great a quantity, par-
ticularly when it is confidered that neither partridges nor
hares are in feafon, or can be procured in any numbers,
more than feven months in the year. Forty thoufand par-
tridges and five thoufand hares would, I think, be much
nearer the truth, and will be found, on calculation, to be
ample provifion for eighty men for feven months, exclufive
of any change. The common weight of thofe birds is
from eighteen to twenty-two ounces when firft killed;

there are fome few that are nearly that weight Riek
fit for the fpit, but they are fo fcarce as by no means to
ferve as a ftandard ; and as they always hord with the com-

mon

NORTHERN OCEAN.

mon fize, there is no room to fufpe@ them of another
{pecies. As all thofe over-grown partridges are notorioufly
known to be males, it is more than probable that they are
imperfe@, and grow large and fat like capons; and every
one that has had an opportunity of tafting thofe large
partridges, will readily allow that they excel the common

fort as much in flavour as they do in fize. It is remarked

in thofe birds, as well as the Rock Partridge, that they are
provided with additional clothing, as it may be called;
for every feather, from the largeft to the {malleft, except
the quills and tail, are all double. The under-feather is

foft and downy, fhooting from the fhaft of the larger;

and is wonderfully adapted to their fituation, as they not
onlv brave the coldeft Winters, but the fpecies now under
confideration always burrow under the {now at nights, and
at day-light come forth to feed. In Winter they are al-
ways found to frequent the banks of rivers and creeks,
the fides of lakes and ponds, and the plains which abound
with dwarf willows; for it is on the buds and tops of that
“tree they always feed during the Winter. In Summer they
eat berries and {mall herbage. Their food in Winter being
fo dry and harfh, makes it neceflary for them to fwallow
a confiderable quantity of gravel to promote digeftion ;
but the great depth of fnow renders it very fcarce during
that feafon. The Indians having confidered. this point,
invented the method now in ufe among the Englith, of
catching them in nets by means of that fimple allurement,
a heap of gravel. The nets for this purpofe are from eight

tQ

a" 3

414

A JOURNEY Tol tas

to twelve feet {quare, and are ftretched in a frame of
wood, and ufually fet on the ice of rivers, creeks, ponds,
and lakes, about one hundred yards from the willows,
but in fome fituations not half that diftance.. Under the
center of the net a heap of {now is thrown up to the fize

of one or two bufhels, and when well packed is covered

with gravel. To fet the nets, when thus prepared, re-
quires no other trouble than lifting up one fide of the
frame, and fupporting it with two {mall props, about four
feet long: a line is faftened to thofe props, and the other
end being conveyed to the neighbouring willows, is always
fo contrived that a man can get to it without being feen
by the birds under the net. When every thing is thus
prepared, the hunters have nothing to do but go into the
adjacent willows and woods, and when they ftart game,
endeavour to drive them into the net, which at times is
no hard tafk, as they frequently run before them like
chickens; and fometimes require no driving, for as foon
as they fee the black heap of gravel on the white fnow
they fly ftreight towards it. ‘The hunter then goes to the '
end of the dine to watch their motions, and when he fees
there are as many about the gravel as the net can cover,
or as many as are likely to go under at that time, with a
fudden pull he hawls down the ftakes, and the net falls
horizontally on the fnow, and enclofes the greateft part of
the birds that are under it. ‘The hunter then runs to the
net as foon as pofflible, and kills all the birds by biting
them at the back of the head. He then fets up the net,

takes

N O Rot HE Rx 49 O CE AN.

takes away all the dead game, and repeats the operation
as often as he pleafes, or as long as the birds are in good
humour. By this fimple contrivance I have known up-
wards of three hundred partridges caught in one morning
by three perfons ; and a much greater number might have
been procured had it been thought neceflary. Early in
the morning, juft at break of day, and early in the after-
noon, is the beft time for this {port. It is common to get
from thirty to feventy at one hawl; and in the Winter of
one thoufand feven hundred and eighty-fix, Mr. Prince,
then Mafter of a floop at Churchill River, a@tually caught
two hundred and four at two hawls. They are by no

means equally plentiful every year; for in fome Winters.
I have known them fo {carce, that it was impoflible to.
catch any in nets, and all that could be procured with the

gun would hardly afford one day’s allowance per week
to the men during the feafon; but in the Winter one

thoufand feven hundred and eighty-five, they were fo plen-

tiful near Churchill, and fuch numbers were brought to:
the Factory, that I gave upward of two thoufand to. the

hogs. In the latter'end of March, or the beginning of

April, thofe birds begin to change from white to their

beautiful Summer plumage, and the firft brown feathers

make their appearance on the neck*, and by degrees

‘ {pread

* Mr. Dragge obferves, in his North Weft Pafflage, that when the par-
tridges begin to change colour, the firft brown feathers appear in the rump;
but this is fo far from being a general rule, that an experienced Hudfonian
muft fmile at the idea. That Mr. Dragee never faw an inftance of this kind’
I will. not fay, but when Nature deviates fo far from its ufual courfe, it is

I ‘ undoubtedly

A16

Rock Par-
tridges.

ALJOURNEY (0 Pie

{pread over the whole body ; but their Summer dea is
feldom complete till July. The feathers of thofe birds
make excellent beds, and as they are the perquifite of the
hunters, are ufually fold to the Captains and Mates of
the Company’ fhips, at the eafy sate of three pence per

‘pound.

Rocx Partripces. This fpecies of Groufe are in
Winter of the fame colour as the former, but inferior in
fize; being in general not more than two-thirds of the
weight. They have a black line from the bill to the eye,
and differ in nature and manner from the Willow Par-
tridge. They never frequent the woods or willows, but
brave the fevereft cold on the open plains. They always
feed on the buds and tops of the dwarf birch, and after this
repaft, generally fit on the high ridges of iow, with their
heads to windward. ‘They are never caught in nets, like
the Willow Partridge; for when in want of gravel, their
bills are of fuch an amazing ftrength, that they pick a fuf-
ficient quantity out of the rocks. Befide, being fo much
inferior in fize to the former fpecies, their flefh is by no
means fo good, being black, hard, and bitter. They are
in general, like the Wood Partridge, either exceeding wild
or very tame; and when in the latter humour, I have

undoubtedly owing to fome accident; and nothing is more likely than that the
feathers of the bird Mr. Dragge had examined, had been ftruck off by a hawk ;
and as the ufual feafon for changing their plumage was near, the Summer
feathers fupplied their place; for out of the many hundreds of thoufands that
I have feen killed, I never faw or heard of a fimilar inftance.

known

NORTHERN “OCEAN.

known one man kill one hundred and twenty in a few
hours; for as they ufually keep in large flocks, the fportf-
men can frequently kill fix or eight ata fhot. Thefe,
like the Willow Partridge, change their plumage in Sum-
mer to a beautiful {peckled brown; and at that feafon are
fo hardy, that, unlefs fhot in the head or vitals, they will
fly away with the greateft quantity of fhot of any bird I
know. They difcover great fondnefs for their young; for

during the time of incubation, they will frequently fuffer

themfelves to be taken by hand off their eggs *. Pigeons
of a fmall fize, not larger than a thrufh, are in fome
Summers found as far North as Churchill River. The

bill is of a flefh-colour, legs red, and the greateft part of
the plumage of a light lilac or blufh. In the interior

parts of the country they fly in large flocks, and perch
on the poplar trees in fuch numbers that I have feen
twelve of them killed at one fhot. They ufually feed on.

* Befides the birds already mentioned, which form a conftant difh at our
tables in Hudfon’s Bay, during their refpective feafons, Mr. Jerome afferts,
that during the time he was Governor at York Fort, the buftard was common.
But fince that Fort was delivered up to the Englifh at the peace of Utrecht
in 1713, none of the Company’s fervants have ever feen one of thofe birds:
nor does it appear by all the Journals now in the poffeffion of the Hudfon’s
Bay Company, that any fuch bird was ever feen in the moft Southern parts of
the Bay, much lefs at York Fort, which is in the latitude 57° North; fo that
a capital error, or a wilful defign to miflead, muft have taken place. Indeed,
his account of the country immediately where he refided, and the productions
of it, are fo erroneoufly ftated as to deferve no notice. His colleague, Dele
Potries, afferts the exiftence of the buftard in thofe parts, and with an equal

regard to truth,

3H . poplar

417

418 -

Red-breaft- ~

ed Thruth.

Grofbeak.

A JOURNEY TO FHE

poplar buds, and are good eating, though feldom fat.
They build their nef) in trees, the fame as the Wood
Pigeons do; never lay but two eggs, and are very {carce
near the fea-coaft in the Northern parts of Hudfon’s Bay.

The Rep-preasteD TurusHEes, commonly called in
Hudfon’s Bay the Red Birds, but by fome the Black Birds,
on account of their note, and by others the American
Fieldfares ufually make their appearance at Churchill River
about the middle of May, build their nefts of mud, like
the Englifh Thrufh, and lay four beautiful blue eggs.
They have a very loud and pleafing note, which they ge-
nerally exercife moft in the mornings and evenings, when
perched on fome lofty tree near their neft; but when the
young can fly they are filent, and migrate to the South
early in the Fall. They are by no means numerous, and
are generally feen inpairs; they are never fought after as
an article of food, but when killed by the Indian boys,

are efteemed good eating, though they syle ncts feed on
worms and infects.

Grosszax. Thefe gay birds vifit Churchill River in
fome years fo early as the latter end of March, but are by
no means plentiful; they are always feen in pairs, and
generally feed on the buds of the poplar and willow.
The male is in moft parts of its plumage of a beautiful
crimfon, but the female of a dull dirty green. In form
they much refemble the sy bullfinch, but are near

double

NORTHERN OCEAN.

double their fize. They build their nefts in trees, fome-
times not far from the ground; lay four white eggs, and
always hatch them in June. ‘They are faid to have q
pleafing note in Spring, though I never heard it, and are
known to retire to the South early in the Fall. The
Englifh refiding in Hudfon’s Bay generally call this bird
the American Red Bird. |

SNow Buwrrnes, univerfally known in Hudfon’s Bay by
the name of the Snow Birds, and in the Ifles of Orkney by

Snow
Bunting.

the name of Snow Flakes, from their vifiting thofe parts —

in fuch numbers as to devour the grain as foon as fown,
in fome years are fo deftructive as to oblige the farmer
to fow his fields a fecond, and occafionally a third time.
Thefe birds make their appearance at the Northern fettle-
ments in the Bay about the latter end of May, or begin-
ning of April, when they are very fat, and not infe-
rior in flavour to an ortolan. On their firft arrival they
generally feed on grafs-feeds, and are fond of frequenting
dunghills. At that time they are eafily caught in great

numbers under a net baited with groats or oatmeal; but |

as the Summer advances, they feed much on worms,
and are then not fo much efteemed. They : fometimes
fly in fuch large flocks, that I have killed upwards of
twenty at one fhot, and have known others who have
killed double that number. In the Spring their plumage
is prettily variegated, black and white; but their Summer
drefs may be called elegant, though not gay. They live

3H 2 long

White-

crowned

Buuting.

Lapland
Finch,

A JOURNEY TO .RHE

long in confinement, have naturally a pleafing note, and
when in company with Canary birds foon imitate their
fong. I have kept many of them in cages in the fame
room with Canary birds, and always found they fung in
Winter as well as in Summer; but even in confinement
they change their plumage according to the feafon, the fame

as in a wild flate. This fpecies of bird feem fond of the |

coldeft regions, for as the Spring advances they fly fo far
North that their breeding-places are not known. to the .

inhabitants of Hudfon’s Bay. In Autumn they return to

the South in large flocks, and are frequently fhot in con-—
fiderable numbers merely as a delicacy; at that feafon,

however, they are by no means fo good as when they firft.
make their appearance in Spring.

Wuite-crownep Buntine. ‘This -{pecies is inferior in
fize to the former, and feldom make their appearance till _
June. They breed in moft parts of the Bay, always
make their nefts on the ground, at the root of a dwarf
willow or a goofeberry-bufh. During the time their young
are in a callow ftate they have a delightful note, but as:
foon as they are fledged they, become filent, and retire to
the South early in September.

Lartanp Fincu. ‘This bird is common on Hudfon’s
Bay, and never migrates Southward in the coldeft Winters.
During that feafon it generally frequents the juniper plains,
and feeds on the fmall buds of that tree, alfo on grafs-

feeds ;

NGORFHERN OCEAN.

feeds but at the approach of Summer it flies ftill farther
North to breed. A variety of this bird is alfo common,
and. is. beautifully marked with a red forehead and breaft.
Ht is moft common in the Spring, and frequently caught
in nets fet for the Snow Bunting ;. and when kept in cages
has a pleafing note, but feldom lives long in. confinement,

though it generally dies. very. fat.

Larks Hs a. pretty variegated colour frequent thofe parts
-in Summer, and always make their appearance in May,;
build their nefts on the ground, ufually by the fide of a
ftone.at the root of a {mall buth, Jay four. {peckled eggs,
and bring forth their young. in June. At their firft: ar-
rival, and till the young can fly, the male is in full fong;
and, like the fky-lark, foars to a great height, and gene-

rally defcends in a perpendicular direétion near their neft.

-Their note is loud and agreeable, but confifts of ttle va-.
riety, and as foon as the young can fly they become filent,

and retire to the Southward early in the Fall. T hey are

‘impatient of confinement, never fing in, that flate, and.

feldom live long. -

The Tirmouss is ufually called in Hudfon's Bay, Black-

cap. ‘This diminutive bird braves the coldeft Winter, , and
during that feafon feeds on the feeds of long rye-grafs, but
-in Summer on infects and berries.. ‘The Southern, Indians
call this bird Kifs-kifs-hefhis, from:.a twittering noife, they
| make, which much refembles that word in. found. |
TTS SWALLOWS

42x

Larks-.

- Titmoufe.

422

Swallows.

Martins,

Hooping

Crane.

A’ FOURNET? FO sPHE

Swaxiows vifit thefe parts in confiderable numbers in
Summer, and are very domeftic; building their nefts in
neceflaries, ftables, and ‘other out-offices that are much
frequented. They feldom ‘make their appearance at
Churchill River till June, and retire South early in Auguft.

They, like the European Swallow, gather in large flocks

on the day of their departure, make feveral revolutions
round the breeding-places, and then take their leave till
the next year. Ido not recolleé to have feen any of thofe
birds to the North of Seal River.

Martins alfo vifit Hudfon’s Bay in great numbers, but
feldom fo far North as Churchill River. They ufually
make their nefts in holes formed in the fteep banks of
rivers; and, like the Swallow, lay four or five fpeckled
eggs; and retire Southward in Auguft. At the North-
ern fettlements they are ‘by no means fo domeftic as the
Swallow.

Hoorinc Crane. ‘This bird vifits Hudfon’s Bay
in the Spring, though not in great numbers. They
are generally feen only in pairs, and that not very
often. It is a bird of confiderable fize, often equal to
that of a good turkey, ‘and the great length of the bill,
neck, and legs, makes it meafure, from the bill to the
toes, near fix feet in common, and fome much more.
Its plumage is of a pure white, except the quill-feathers,
which are black ; the crown is covered with a red fkin,

thinly

-NORTHERN OCEAN,

thinly. befet with black. briitles,. and. the legs. are large and
black?" ft ufually frequents open {wamps, the fades of rivers,
and the margins of lakes and ponds, feeds on frogs and
{mall fifth, and efteemed good eating. The wing-bones
of this bird are fo long and large, that I have known
them made into flutes with tolerable fuccefs. It feldom.

has more than two young, and retires Southward early in.
| the Fall. | :

T Hs Brown.Crane. This f{pecies is far inferior in fize to

the former, being feldom three feet and a half in length, and
on an average not. weighing feven pounds. Their. haunts
and manner of life are nearly the fame as. that of the Hoop-
ing Crane, and they never have more than two young,

and thofe feldom fly till September. They are found far-
ther North than the former, for I have killed feveral of
them. on Marble Ifland, and have feen them on the Con--

tinent as high as, the latitude 65°. They are generally
efteemed good eating, and, from the form of the body

when fit for the dpit, they acquire the name of the North:
Weft Turkey. There is a circumftance refpecting this.

bird that is very peculiar; which is, that the gizard is
larger than that. of a fwan, and remarkably fo in the young
birds. The Brown Cranes are frequently feen in hot calm.
days to foar to an amazing height, always flying in circles,.
' till by degrees they are almoft out of fight, yet their note
is fo loud, that the fportfman, before he fees their fitua-
tion,. afer fancies they are very near him, They vifit

Hudfon’s

423

Brown
Crane...

424

Bitterns,

Curlew.

A FS OURNEW! TO [THE
Hudfon’s s Bay i in far greater numbers than the former, and

are very good eating.

BITTERNS are common at York Fort in Summer, but
are feldom found fo far North as Churchill River. I have

feen two fpecies of this bird; fome having afh-coloured

legs, others with beautiful grafs-green legs, and very gay
plumage. They always frequent marfhes and fwamps,
alfo the banks of rivers that abound with reeds and long
grafs. They generally feed on infects that are bred in the
water, and probably on {mall frogs; and though feldom fat,
they are generally good eating. They are by no means nu-
merous even at York Fort, nor in fact in the moft Southern
parts of the Bay that I have vifited.

Curtews. ‘There are two fpecies of this bird which
frequent the coafts of Hudfon’s Bay in great numbers
during Summer, and breed in all parts of it as far North
as the latitude 72°; the largeft of this {pecies is diftin-
cuifhed by that great Naturalift Mr. Pennant, by the
name of the Efquimaux Curlew. They always keep near
the fea coaft; attend the ebbing of the tide, and are fre-
quently found at low-water-mark in great numbers,
where they feed on marine infects, which they find by the
fides of flones in great plenty; but at high-water they
retire to the dry ridges and wait the receding of the tide,
They fly as fteady as a woodcock, anfwer to a whiftle that
refembles their note; lay long on their wings, and are a

moft

NIOR TIHERWN QCQEAN.

moft excellent fhot, and at times are delicious eating.
The other f{pecies of Curlew are in colour and fhape ex-
adtly like the former, though inferior in faze, and differ in
their manner of life, as they never frequent the water’s-
edge, but always keep among the rocks and dry ridges,
and feed on berries and {mall infe@s. The fleth of this
bird is generally more efteemed than that of the former,
but they are by no means fo numerous. This {pecies of
Curlew are feldom found farther North than Egg River.

Jacx Snipes. Thofe birds vifit Hudfon’s Bay in Sum-
mer in confiderable numbers, but are feldom feen to the
North of Whale Cove. They.do not arrive till the ice of
the rivers is broke up, and they retire to the South early in
the Fall.. During their ftay, they always frequent marfhes
near the fea coaft, and the fhores of great rivers. In man-
ner and flight they exa@ly refemble the European Jack
Snipe; and when on the wing, fly at fuch a diftance from
each other, that it is but feldom the beft {port{man can
get more than one or two ata fhot. Their flefh is by
no means fo delicate as that of the Englifh Snipe.

Rep GopwairTs, ufually called at the Northern fettle-
ments in Hudfon’s Bay, Plovers. Thofe birds vifit the
fhores of that part in very large flocks, and ufually frequent
the marfhes and the margins of ponds. They alfo fre-
quently attend the tide, like the Efguimaux Curlews ;
fly down to low-water-mark, and feed on a {mall fifh,

aI | not

425

Jack Snipes.

Red God«

wait.

426

Spotted
Godwait.

Ay JO URN B® 30) aoriE

not much unlike a fhrimp; but as the tide flows, they retire
to the marfhes. They fly in fuch large flocks, and fo
clofe to each other, that I have often killed upwards of
twelve at one fhot; and Mr. Atkinfon, long refident at
York Fort, actually killed feventy-two at one fhot; but

that was when the birds were fitting. Near Churchill

River they are feldom fat, though tolerably flefhy, and
are generally good eating. They ufually weigh from ten
to thirteen ounces; the female is always larger than the
male, and differs in colour, being of a much lighter brown.
They retire to the South long before the froft com-
mences; yet I have feen this bird as far North as the
latitude 71° 50.

SrpotTED GopwaiT, known in Hudfon’s Bay by the
name of Yellow Legs. This bird alfo vifits that country
in confiderable numbers, but more fo in the interior parts;
and ufually frequents the flat muddy banks of rivers. In
Summer it is generally very poor, but late in the Fall
is, as it may be called, one lump of fat. This. bird,
with many others of the migratory tribe, I faw in con-
fiderable numbers as far North as the latitude 71° 54°; and
at York Fort I have known them fhot fo late as the latter
end of O@ober: at which time they are in the greateft

perfection, and moft delicious eating, more particularly

fo when put into a bit of pafte, and boiled like an apple-
dumpling ; for in fact they are generally too fat at that
feafon to.be eaten either roafted or boiled. |

| HEBRIDAL

NORTHERN OCEAN.

HesripaL Sanppirers, but more commonly known in
Hudfon’s Bay by the Name of Whale Birds, on account
of their feeding on the carcafes of thofe animals which fre-
quently lie on the fhores, alfo on maggots that are produced
in them by fly-blows. Thefe birds frequent thofe parts
in confiderable numbers, and always keep near the margin
of the fea. They may, in fact, be called beautiful birds,
though not gay in their plumage; they are ufually very fat,
but even when firft killed they fmell and tafte fo much
like train-oil as to render them by no means pleafing to
the palate, yet they are frequently eaten by the Com-
pany’s fervants. As the Summer advances they fly fo far
North of Churchill River, that their breeding-places are
not known, though they remain at that part till the be-
ginning of July, and return early in the Fall. They
are by no means large birds, as they feldom weigh four
ounces. The bill is black, plumage prettily variegated
black and white, and the aa and feet are of a beautiful
orange colour *.

Provers, commonly called Hawk’s Eyes, from their
watchfulnefs to preventa near approach when fitting. When
thefe birds are on the wing, they fly very fwift and irregu-
Jar, particularly when fingle or in {mall flocks, At Church-
ill River they are by no means numerous, but I have feen
them in fuch large flocks at York Fort in the Fall of one

* They exactly correfpond with the bird defcribed by Mr. Pennant, except
that they are much longer.

a 12 thoufand

427

Hebridal
Sandpipers.

Plover.

428

Black Gul-
lemots.

A FOURNEYV*T O° PHE.

thoufand feven hundred and feventy-three, that Mr. Ferdi-
nand Jacobs then Governor, Mr. Robert Body Surgeon, and
myfelf, killed in one afternoon as many as two men could
conveniently carry. They generally feed on infe&s, and are
at all times good eating, but late in the Fall are moft ex-

cellent. They are by no means equally plentiful in all

years; and at the Northern fettlements in the Bay they are
not claffed with thofe fpecies of game that add to the general
{tock of provifions, being only killed as a luxury; but
{ am informed that at Albany Fort, feveral barrels of
them are annually falted for Winter ufe, and are efteemed
good eating. This bird during Summer reforts to the re-
moteft Northern parts; for I have feen them at the Copper
River, though in thofe dreary regions only in pairs. The
young of thofe birds always leave their nefts as foon as
hatched, and when but a few days old run very faft;
at night, or in rainy weather, the old ones call them to-
gether, and cover them with their wings, in ads ws man-
ner as a hen does her chickens.

Buack GuLiemots, known in Hudfon’s Bay by the
name of Sea Pigeons. Thofe birds frequent the fhores of.
Hudfon’s Bay and Straits in confiderakic numbers; but
more particularly the Northern parts, where they fly in
large flocks; to the Southward they are only feen in
pairs. They are of a fine black, but not gloffy, with
fcarlet legs and feet; and the coverets of the wings are
marked with whi ite. They are in weight equal to a Widgeon,

though

NORTHERN OCEAN.

though to appearance not fo large. They ufually make
their nefts in the holes of rocks, and lay two white eggs,
which are delicate eating, but not proportionably large for
the fize of the bird. My friend Mr. Pennant fays, they
brave the coldeft Winters in thofe parts, by keeping at
the edge of the ice near the open water; but as the fea at
that feafon is frozen over for feveral miles from the fhore,

429

I believe no one’s ‘curiofity ever tempted him to confirm ~

the truth of this; and it is well known they never make

their appearance near the land after the froft becomes fevere.

NortTuern Drvers. Thefe birds, though common in
Hudfon’s Bay, are by no means plentiful; they are
feldom found near the fea coaft, but more frequently in
frefh water lakes, and ufually in pairs. They build their
nefts at the edge of {mall iflands, or the margins of lakes
or ponds; they lay only two eggs, and it is very com-
mon to find only one pair and their young in one fheet
of water; a great proof of their averfion to fociety. They
are known in Hudfon’s Bay by the name of Loons. They
differ in fpecies from the Black and Red throated Divers,
having a large black bill near four inches long ; plumage on
the back of a glofly black, elegantly barred with white ;
the belly of a filver white ; and they are fo large as at times
to weigh fifteen or fixteen pounds. Their flefh is always
black, hard, and fifhy, yet it is generally eaten by the

Indians.

Northern
Divers.

10 : BLAck~

430

Black-
throated
Divers.

Red-throat-

ed Divers.

A JOURN EW Tile

Brackx-THroaTepD Divers. This {pecies are more beau-
tiful than the former; having along white bill, plumage on
the back and wings black, elegantly tinged with purple and
green, and prettily marked with white fpots. In fize they
are equal to the former; but are fo watchful as to dive at the
flath of a gun, and of courfe are feldom killed but when
onthe wing. Their flefh is equally black and fithy with
the former, but it is always eaten by the Indians. The
{kins of thofe birds are very thick and ftrong, and they are.
frequently dreffed with the feathers on, and made into caps
for the Indian men. The fkins of the Eagle and Raven,
with their plumage complete, are alfo applied to that ufe,
and are far from being an unbecoming head-drefs for a

- favage.

Rep-THROATED Divers. This fpecies are alfo called
Loons in Hudfon’s Bay ; but they are fo far inferior to the
two former, that they feldom weigh more than three or
four pounds. They, like the other {pecies of Loon, are ex-
cellent divers; they always feed on fifh, and when in purfuit
of their prey, are frequently entangled in fifhing-nets, fet at
the mouths of creeks and {mall rivers. ‘They are more nu-
merous than either of the former, as they frequently fly
in flocks; but like them make their nefts at the edge of
the water, and only lay two eggs, which, though very
rank and fifhy, are always eaten by Indians and Englith.
The legs of thofe three {pecies of Loon are placed fo near

the?

NOR THE RN O € E AN.

the rump as to be of no fervice to them on the land, as
they are perfe@tly incapable of walking ; and when found
in that fituation (which is but feldom) they are eafily taken,
though they make a ftrong refiftance with their bill, which
is very hard and fharp.

Wuite Guiis. Thefe birds vifit Hudfon’s Bay in
great numbers, both on the fea coafts and in the interior
parts, and probably extend quite acrofs the continent of
America. They generally make their appearance at

Churchill River about the middle of May; build their

~nefts on the iflands in lakes and rivers; lay two {peckled
eggs, and bring forth their young in June. Their eggs
are generally efteemed good eating, as well as the fleth of
thofe in the interior parts of the country, though they
feed on fifh and carrion. They make their flay on Hud-
fon’s Bay as long in the Fall as the froft will permit them
- to procure a livelihood.

- Grey Guuis. Thefe birds, though common, are by no
means plentiful ; and I never knew their breeding-places,
as they feldom make their appearance at Churchill River till
the Fall of the year, and remain there only till the ice be-
gins to be formed about the fhores. They feldom frequent
the interior parts of the country. They are not inferior in
fize to the former, and in the Fall of the year are generally
fat. The flefh is white and very good eating ; and, like
: moft

43%

WhiteGulls,

Grey Gulls.

437

Black Gulls.

Black-heads.

A\ JOURNEY 107 GHE

moft other Gulls, they are a moft excellent Shot when on
the wing.

Buiacx Gutts, ufually called in Hudfon’s Bay, Men of
War, from their purfuing and taking the prey from a
lefler fpecies of Gull, known in that country by the name
of Black-head. In fize they are much inferior to the
two former fpecies; but, like them, always make their
nefts on iflands, or at the margins of lakes or ponds; they
lay only two eggs, and are found at a confiderable diftance
from the fea coaft. The length of their wings is very great
in proportion to the body; the tail is uniform, and the two
middle feathers are four or five inches longer than the reft.
Their eggs are always eaten, both by the Indians and Eng-
lith ; but the bird itfelf is generally rejected, except when
other provifions are very fearce.

Biacx-HEaps. Thefe are the {malleft {pecies of Gull
that I know. They vifit the fea coaft of Hudfon’s Bay
in fuch vaft numbers, that they are frequently feen in
flocks of feveral hundreds; and I have known buthels of
their eggs taken on an ifland of very fmall circumference,
Thefe eggs are very delicate eating, the yolks being equal
to that of a young pullet, and the whites of a femi-tranf
parent azure, but the bird itfelf is always fifhy. Their
affection for their young is fo ftrong, that when any perfon
attempts to rob their nefts, they fly at him, and fometimes

approach

NOR THER N- OCEAN.

approach fo near as to touch him with their pinions ; and
when they find their lofs, will frequently follow the plun-
derer to a confiderable diftance, and exprefs their grief by
making an unufual {creaming noife. |
This bird may be ranked with the elegant part of the
feathered creation, though it is by no means gay. The bill,
legs, and feet are of a rich fcarlet ; crown black, and the
remainder of the- plumage of a light afh-colour, except
the quill-feathers, which are prettily barred, and tipped
with black, and the tail much forked. The flight, or
extent of wing, in this bird, is very great, in proportion to
the body. They are found as far North as has hitherto
been vifited, but retire to the South early in the Fall.

Peticans. Thofe birds are numerous in the interior
parts of the country, but never appear near the fea-coaft.
They generally frequent large lakes, and always make
their nefts on iflands. ‘They are fo provident for their
young, that great quantities of fifh lie rotting near their
nefts, and emit fuch a herrid ftench as to be fmelt ata
confiderable diftance. The flefh of the young Pelican is
frequently eaten by the Indians; and as they are always
very fat, great quantities of it is melted down, and pre-
ferved in bladders for Winter ufe *, to mix with pounded

fleth ;

* Inthe Fall of 1774, when I firft fettled at Cumberland Houfe, the
Indians impofed on me and my people very much, by felling us Pelican fat

for the fat of the black bear. Our knowledge of the delicacy of the latter
% ° :
Cay induced

433

Pelicansé

434

Goofanders.

A “PO URN EO) ee

fiefh; but by keeping, it grows very rank. The Pe-
licans in thofe parts are about the fize of a common
goofe; their plumage is of a delicate white, except the
quill-feathers, which are black. The bill is near a foot
long; and the bag, which reaches from the outer-end of
the under-mandible to the breaft, is capable of containing
upwards of three quarts. The fkins of thofe birds are
thick and tough, and are frequently drefled by the In-
dians and converted into bags, but are never made into
clothing, though their feathers are as hard, clofe, and
durable, as thofe of a Loon. 3

GoosanpErs, ufually called in Hudfon’s Bay, Shell-
drakes. Thofe birds are very common on the fea-coatft,
but in the interior parts fly in very large flocks. The
bill is long and narrow, and toothed like a faw ; and they
have a tuft of feathers at the back of the head, which
they can ereé&t at pleafure. They are moft excellent
divers, and fuch great deftroyers of fifh, that they are
frequently obliged to vomit fome of them before they can
take flight. Though not much larger than the Mallard
Duck, they frequently {wallow fith of fix or feven inches

induced us to referve this fat for particular purpofes; but when we came to
open the bladders, it was little {uperior to train oil, and was only eatable by a
few of my crew, which at that time confifted only of eight Englifhmen and
two of the home Indians from York Fort.

Cumberland Houfe was the firft inland fectlement the Company made from
Hudfon’s Fort; and though begun on fo fmall a fcale, yet upon it and Hudfon’s
Houfe, which is fituated beyond it, upwards of feventy men were now employed.

long

NORTH ER NN). .OVXC EAN.

long and proportionably thick. Thofe that frequent the
interior parts of the country prey much on crawfith,
which are very numerous in fome of the fhallow ftony
rivers. In the Fall of the year they are very fat, and
though they always feed on fifh, yet their flefh at that
feafon is very good; and they remain in thofe parts as
long as the froft will permit them to procure a fub-

fiftence.

Swans. There are two {pecies of this bird that vifit
Hudfon’s Bay in Summer ; and only differ in fize, as the
plumage of both are perfeély white, with black bill and
legs, The fmaller fort are more frequent near the fea-
coaft, but by no means plentiful, and are moft frequently
feen in pairs, but fometimes fingle, probably owing to
their mates having been killed on their paffage North.
Both fpecies ufually breed on the iflands which are in
lakes ; and the eggs of the larger {pecies are fo big, that one

435

Swans,

of them is a fufficient meal for a moderate man, without _

bread, or any other addition: In the interior parts of the
country the larger Swan precedes every other {pecies of
water-fowl, and in fome years arrive fo early as the month
of March, long before the ice of the rivers are broken up.
At thofe times they always frequent the open waters of
falls and rapids, where they are frequently fhot by the

Indians in confiderable numbers. They ufually weigh

upwards of thirty pounds, and the leffer fpecies from —

eighteen to twenty-four. The flefh of both are excellent
ge 2 eating,

A “JOUR NEY)? oP rt £

eating, and when roafted, is equal in flavour to ie
heifer-beef, and the cygnets are very delicate.
Notwithftanding the fize of this bird, they are fo {wift
on the wing as to make them the moft difficult to fhoot
of any bird I know, it being frequently neceflary to take

fight ten or twelve feet before their bills. This, how- -

ever, is only when flying before the wind in a brifk gale,
at which time they cannot fly at a lefs rate than an hun-
dred miles an hour; but when flying acrofs the wind, or
again{t it, they make but a flow progrefs, and are then a
noble fhot. In their moulting ftate they are not eafily
taken, as their large feet, with the affiftance of their
wings, enables them to run on the furface of the water as
faft as an Indian canoe can be paddled, and therefore they
are always obliged to be fhot; for by diving and other ma-
neeuvres they render it impoffible to take them by hand. It

has been faid that the Swans whiftle or fing before their

death, and I have read fome elegant defcriptions of it in fome
of the poets; but I have never heard any thing of the kind,
though I have been at the deaths of feveral. It is’ true,
in ferene evenings, after Sun-fet, I have heard them make
a noife not very unlike that of a French-horn, but entirely -
divefted of every note that conftituted melody, and have
often been forry to find it did not forebode their death.
Mr. Lawfon, who, as Mr. Pennant juftly remarks, was no
inaccurate obferver, properly enough calls the largeft {pecies
‘Trumpeters, and the leffer, Hoopers. Some years ago,
when I built Cumberland Houfe, the Indians killed thofe

birds

NOIR, Eo H_E. RON )O) CEVA WN.

birds in fuch numbers, that the down and quills might
have been procured in confiderable quantities at a trifling
expence ; but fance the depopulation of the natives by the
fmall-pox, which has alfo driven the few furvivors to fre-
quent other parts of the country, no advantage can be
made of thofe articles, though of confiderable value in
England *. |

Gerse. ‘There are no lefs than ten different fpecies
of Geefe that frequent the various parts of Hudfon’s Bay
during Summer, and are as follow: Firft, The Cowmon
Grey Goofe. Second, The Canada Goofe. Third, The
White, or Snow Goofe. Fifth, The Blue Goofe. Sixth,
The Laughing Goofe. Seventh, The Barren Goofe.
Eighth, The Brent Goofe. Ninth, The Dunter; and
Tenth, the Bean Goofe.

Common Grey Goose. ‘This bird precedes every other
fpecies of Goofe in thofe parts, and in fome forward
Springs arrives at Churchill River fo early as the latter

* Mr. Pennant, in treating of the Whiftling Swan, takes nate of the
formation of the Windpipe ; but on examination, the windpipes of both the
fpecies which frequent F{udfon’s Bay are found to be exactly ig sa though
their note is quite different. ‘The breaft-bone of this bird is different from
any other I have feen; for infteadof being fharp and folid, like that of a goole,
it is broad and hollow. Into this cavity the windpipe paffes from the valve,
and reaching quite down to the abdomen, returns into the cheft, and joins the
lungs. Neither of the fpecies of Swan that frequent Hudfon’s Bay are mute;
but the note of the larger is much louder and harfher than that of the fmaller.

end

ASF.

Geefe.

Common
Grey Goofe.

A38

A. POW DN FR Uo ane

end of April, but more commonly from the eleventh to
the fixteenth of May; and in one year it was-the twenty-
fixth of May before any Geefe made their appearance.
At their firft arrival they generally come in pairs, and are
fo fond of fociety, that they fly ftreight to the call that
imitates their note; by which means they are eafily fhot.
They breed in great numbers in the plains and marfhes
near Churchill River; and in fome years the young ones
can be taken in confiderabl e numbers, and are eafily tamed ;
but will never learn to eat corn, unlefs fome of the old
ones are taken with them, which is eafily done when in a
moulting ftate. On the ninth of Auguft one thoufand feven
hundred and eighty-one, when I refided at Prince of
Wales’s Fort, I fent fome Indians up Churchill River in
canoes to procure fome of thofe Geefe, and in the after-
noon they were feen coming down the river with a large
flock before them; the young ones not more than half-
grown, and the old ones fo far in a moulting ftate as not
to be capable of flying; fo that, with the affliftance of
the Englifh and the Indians then refiding on the plantation,
the whole flock, to the amount of forty-one, was drove
within the ftockade which inclofes the Fort, where they
were fed and fattened for Winter ufe. Wild Geefe taken
and fattened in this manner are much preferable ‘to any
tame Geefe in the world. When this {pecies of Geefe are
full-grown. and in good condition, they often weigh twelve
yet but.andre frequently, muchitale

CANADA

NORTHERN OCEAN

Canapa Goosz, or Pifk-a-fifh, as it is called by &
the Indians, as well as the Englifh in Hudfon’s Bay.
This fpecies do not differ in plumage from the former,
but are inferior in fize; the bill is much fmaller in pro-
portion, and the Hefh being much whiter, of courfe is
more efteemed. They are by no means fo numerous as

439
Pe

the former, and generally fly far North to breed; but fome

few of their eggs are found near Churchill River. It is fel-
dom that either of thefe fpecies lay more than four eggs ;
but if not robbed, they ufually bring them all forth.

Wuite or Snow Goosz. Thefe are the moft numerous
of all the fpecies of birds that frequent the Northern parts of
the Bay, andgenerally make their appearance about a week
or ten days after the Common Grey Goofe. In the firft
part of the feafon they come in {mall parties, but in the
middle, and toward the latter end, they fly in fuch
amazing flocks, that when they fettle in the marfhes to
feed, the ground for a confiderable diftance appears like a
field of fnow. When feeding in the fame marfh with the
Grey Geefe, they never mix. Like the Grey Geefe, they fly
to the call that refembles their note; and in fome years are
killed and falted in great numbers for Winter provifion;
they are almoft univerfally thought good eating, and will,
if proper care be taken in curing them, continue good
for eighteen months or two years. ‘The Indians are far
more expert in killing Geefe, as well as every other {pecies
of game, than any European I ever faw in Hudfon’s Bay;

IO ‘ : for

White or
Snow Goofe.

440

A JOUR NEW! WO Ge

for fome of them frequently kill upward of a hundred
Geefe in a day, whereas the moft expert of the Englith
think it a good day’s work to kill thirty. Some years

back it was common for an Indian to kill from a thoufand ©
to twelve hundred Geefe in one feafon; but latterly he
is reckoned a good hunter that kills three hundred. This
is by no means owing to the degeneracy of the natives;
for the Geefe of late years do not frequent thofe parts in
fuch numbers as formerly. The general breeding-place
of this bird is not known to any Indian in Hudf{on’s Bay,
not even to the Efquimaux who frequent the remoteft
North. The general route they take in their return to the
South in the Fall of the year, is equally unknown; for

- though fuch multitudes of them are feen at Churchill

River in the Spring, and are frequently killed to the
amount of five or fix thoufand; yet in the Fall of the
year, feven or eight hundred is confidered a good hunt.
At York Fort, though only two degrees South of Churchill
River, the Geefe feafons flu€tuate fo much, that in fome
Springs they have falted forty hogfheads, and in others not
more than one or two: and at Albany Fort, the Spring
feafon is by no means to be depended on; but in the Fall
they frequently falt fixty hogfheads of Geefe, befides great
quantities of Plover. The retreat of thofe birds in Winter
is equally unknown, as that of their breeding-places. I
obferve in Mr. Pennant’s Arctic Zoology, that about Jakutz,
and other parts of Siberia, they are caught in great numbers,

both in nets and by decoying them into hovels; but if
thefe

NORTHERN OCEAN.

thefe are the fame birds, they muft at times vary as much
In manner as they do in fituation; for in Hudfon’s Bay
they are’the fhyeft and moft watchful of all the {pecies of
Geefe, never fuffering an open approach, not even within
two or three gun-fhots : yet in fome of the rivers near
Cumberland Houfe, and at Bafquiau, the Indians fre-
quently kill twenty at one fhot; but this is only done in
moon-light nights, when the Geefe are fitting on the mud,
and the {portfmen are perfectly concealed from their view.
Though the plumage of thofe Geefe are perfe@ly white,
except the quill-feathers, which are black, the fkin is
of a dark lead-colour, and the fleth is excellent eating,
either frefh or falt. They are much inferior in fize to
the Common Grey Geefle, but equal to the Canada
Geefe.

Brus Gezsz. This {pecies are of the fame fize as the
Snow Geefe; and, like them, the bill and legs are of a
deep flefh-colour, but the whole plumage is of a dirty
blue, refembling old lead. The fkin, when ftripped of
its feathers, is of the fame colour as the Snow Goofe, and
- they are equally good eating. This fpecies of Geefe
are feldom feen to the North of Churchill River, and net
_ very common at York Fort; but at Albany Fort they are
more plentiful than the White or Snow Geefe. Their
breeding-places are as little known to the moft accurate
obferver as thofe of the Snow Geefe; for I never knew
any of their eges taken, and their Winter haunts have

3L hitherto

A4l

Blue Geefe.

442

Horned
Wavey.

A TOURNEY (OWnH E

hitherto been undifcovered. Thofe birds are frequently
feen to lead a flock of the White ones; and, as they ge- _
nerally fly in angles, it is far from unpleafant to fee a
bird of a different colour leading the van. The leader is
generally the objeé of the farft fportfman who fires, which

throws the whole flock into fach confufion, that fome of

the other hunters. frequently kill &x or feven at a thot.

Hornep Wavey. This delicate and diminutive f{pecies
of the Goofe is not much larger than the Mallard Duck. »
Its plumage is delicately white, except the quill-feathers,
which are black. The bill is not more than an inch long,
and at the bafe is ftudded round with little knobs about
the fize of peas, but more remarkably fo in the males.
Both the bill and feet are of the fame colour with thofe of
the Snow Goofe. This fpecies is very fearce at Churchill
River, and I believe are never found at any of the South-
ern fettlements ; but about two or three hundred miles to
the North Weft of Churchill, I have feen them in as large
flocks as the Common Wavey, or Snow Goofe. The flefh
of this bird is exceedingly delicate ; but they are fo {mall, -
that when I was on my journey to the North I eat two of
them one night for fupper, I do not find this bird de-
fcribed by my worthy friend Mr. Pennant in his Artic Zoo=
logy. Probably a fpecimen of it was not fent home, for
the perfon that commanded at Prince of Wales’s Fort.* at

* Mr. Mofes Norton..
the

NORTHERN OCEAN.

_ the time the colleG@ion was making, did not pay any at-
tention to it. |

LaucuiInc Goose. This elegant fpecies has a white
bill, and the legs and feet are of a fine yellow colour ;
the upper part of the plumage is brown, the breaft and
belly white, the former prettily blotched with black. In
fize they are equal to the Snow Goofe, and their fkins,
when ftripped of their feathers, are delicately white, and
the flefh excellent. They vifit Churchill River in very

{mall numbers; but about two hundred miles to the North

Weft of that river I have feen them fly in large flocks,
like the Common Waveys, or Snow Geefe; and near Cum-
berland Houfe and Bafquiau they are found in fuch num-
bers, that the Indians in moon-light nights frequently kill
upwards of twenty at a fhot. Like the Horned Wavey,
they never fly with the lead of the coaft, but are al-
ways feen to come from the Weftward. Their general
breeding-places are not known, though fome few of their
eggs are occafionally found to the North of Churchill; but
I never heard any Indian fay that he had feen any eggs of
the Horned Wavey: it is probable they retire to North
Greenland to breed ; and their rout in the Fall of the year,
as they return Southward, is equally unknown. ‘They
are, I believe, feldom feen on the coaft of Hudfon’s Bay
to the Southward of latitude 59° North.

Lig . BARREN

Laughing
Goofe.

444

Barren
Geele.

Brent

Gecfe.

A JOURNEY TO THE

Barren Gesss. Thefe are the largeft of all the {pecies
of Geefe that frequent Hudfon’s Bay, as they frequently
weigh fixteen or feventeen pounds. They differ from the
Common Grey Goofe in nothing but in fize, and in the

head and breaft being tinged with a rufty brown. They

never make their appearance in the Spring till the greateft

part of the other fpecies of Geefe are own Northward
to breed, and many of them remain near Churchill River |
the whole Summer. This large fpecies are generally

found to be males, and from the exceeding {mallnefs of
their tefticles, they are, I fuppofe, incapable of propa-
gating their fpecies. I believe I can with truth fay, that I
was the firft European who made that remark, though
they had always been diftinguifhed by the name if the Bar-
ren Geefe; for no other reafon than that of their not being
known to breed. Their flefh is by no means unpleafant.
though always hard and tough; and their plumage is fo
thick before they begin to moult, that one bird ufually
produces a pound of fine feathers and down, of a furprifing

elafticity.

Brent Geese. ‘This fpecies certainly breed in the re-
moteft parts of the North, and feldom make their appear-
ance at Churchill River till late in Auguft or September.
The rout they take in Spring is sesh tial and their breed-
ing-places have never been difcovered by any Indian in
Hudfon’s Bay. When they make their appearance at

6 - Churchill

WO Re ER WN OC. AN.

Churchill River, they always come from the North, fly
near the margin of the coaft, and are never feen in the
interior parts of the country. In faze they are larger than
a Mallard Duck, but inferior to the Snow Goofe; and
though their fleth appears delicate to the eye, it is not much
efteemed. In fome years they pafs the mouth of Churchill
River in prodigious numbers, and many of them are killed.
and ferved to the Company’s fervants as provifions ; but,

as I have juft obferved, they are not muchrelifhed. When

migrating to the South, they generally avail themfelves of

a ftrong North or North Wefterly wind, which makes.

their flight fo fwift, that when I have killed four or five
at a fhot, not one of them fell lefs than from twenty to
fifty yards from the perpendicular {pot where they were
killed. Like the White, or Snow Geefe, when in large
fiocks they fly in the fhape of a wedge, and make a
oreat noife. Their flight is very irregular, fometimes
being forty or fifty yards above the water, and in an in-
ftant after they fkim clofe to the furface of it, and then
rife again to a confiderable height ; fo that they may juftly
be faid to fly in feftoons.

The Dunter Goofe, as it is called in Hudfon’s Bay,
but which is certainly the Eider Duck. They are com-
mon at the mouth of Churchill River as foon as the ice
breaks up, but generally fly far North to breed; and the
few that do remain near the fettlement are fo {cattered
among fmall iflands, and fea-girt rocks and fhoals, as to

render

Dunter
Goole,

446

Bean Goofe.

Bucks.

A’°J-O' UR Na i

render it not worth while to attempt gathering their down.
Their eggs, when found, are exceeding good eating; and
in the Fall of the year the flefh is by no means unpleafant,
though ae are notorioutly known to feed on fith.

Bean Goosz. ‘This fpecies is ioe found in any part |
of Hudfon’s Bay, as in all my travels I have only feen
three that were killed. This bird never came under the
infpeétion of Mr. Graham, or the late Mr. Hutchins,
though they both contributed aes largely to the aan
fent home to the Royal Society *.

Species of Water-Fowl.

Ducxs of various kinds are found in thofe parts during

Summer; fome only frequenting the fea-coaft, while

others vifit the interior parts of the country in aftonifhing
numbers. ‘The fpecies of this bird which is found moft
commonly here are, the King Duck, Black Duck, Mallard

* It is, however, no lefs true, that the late Mr. Humphry Martin, many
years Governor. of Albany Fort, fent home feveral hundred fpecimens of
animals and plants to complete that collection; but. by fome miftake, no-
thing of the kind was placed to the credit of his account. Even my refpected
fr ‘eat Mr. Pennant, who with a candour that does him honour, has fo gene-
roufly acknowledged his obligations to all to whom he thought he was indebted
for information when he was writing his Arctic Zoology, (fee the Advertife-
ment,) has not mentioned his name; but I am fully perfuaded that it entirely
proceeded from a want of knowing the perfon; and as Mr. Hutchins fuc-
ceeded him at Albany in the year 1774, every thing that has been fent over
from that part has been placed to his account.

Duck,

NORTHERN OCEAN.

Duck, Long-tailed Duck, Widgeon, and Teal. The two
firft only vifit the fea-coaft, feed on fifhand fifh-fpawn; and
their flefh is by no means efteemed good, though their eges
are not difagreeable. The Mallard and Long-tailed Duck
vifit Hudfon’s Bay in great numbers, and extend from the

fea-coaft to the remoteft Weftern parts, and near Cum-.
berland Houfe are found in vaft multitudes. At their firft-

arrival on the fea-coaft, they are exceeding good eating; but

when in a moulting flate, though very fat, they are in ge-.

neral fo rank that few Europeans are fond of them. At

thofe feafons the difference in flavour is eafily known by

the colour of the fat; for when that is white, the fleth is

moft affuredly good; but when it is yellow, or of an.

orange colour, it isvery rank and fifhy, This difference is
only peculiar to thofe that frequent and breed near the
fea-coaft; for in the interior parts I never knew them

killed but their flefh was very good; and the young Mal-~
lard Duck before it can fly is very fat, and moft deli-.

cate eating. The fame may be faid of the Long-tailed
Duck. Neither of thofe fpecies lay more than: fix or eight
eggs in common, and frequently bring them all forth..

Wipczon. This fpecies of Duck is very uncommcn
in Hudfon’s Bay; ufually keeping in pairs, and being fl-
dom feen in flocks. They are by no means fo numerous
as the two former, and are moft frequently feen in rivers
and marfhes near the fea-coaft. Their flefh is generally
efteemed ; and the down of thofe I have examined is little
inferior in elafticity to that of the Eider, though much

~ fhorter.

447

"Teal.

A*SQURNEY | TO THe

fhorter. The fame may be faid of feveral other fpecies of
Ducks that frequent thofe parts; but the impoflibility of
collecting the down in any donne 3 oil it from be-
coming an 1 article of trade..

TEAL. Like the Males they are found in confider-
able numbers near the fea-coaft; but are more plentiful
in the interior parts of the country, and fly in fuch large
flocks that I have often killed twelve or fourteen at one
fhot, and have feen both Englifh and Indians kill-a much
greater number. At their firft arrival they are but poor,
though generally efteemed good eating. This diminutive
Duck is by far the moft prolific of any I know that reforts
to Hudfon’s Bay ; for I have often feen the old ones {wim-
ming at the head of feventeen young, when not much

larger than walnuts. ‘This bird remains in thofe parts as

long as the feafon will permit ; for in the year one thoufand
feven hundred and feventy-five, in my paflage from Cum-
berland Houfe to York Fort, I, as well as my Indian com-
panions, killed them in the rivers we pafled through as
late as the twentieth of Odober. At thofe times they
are entirely involved in fat, but delicately white, and =
truly be called a great luxury.

Befides the birds already defcribed, there is a great
variety of others, both of land and water fowl, that fre-
quent thofe parts in Summer; but thefe came not fo im-
mediately under my infpection as thofe I have already
defcribed.

NOR T HE RN: ,OC EAN.

Of the Vegetable Produttions.

The vegetable produdtions of this country by no means

engaged my attention fo much as the animal creation ;’

which is the lefs to be wondered at, as fo few of them
are ufeful for the fupport of man. Yet I will endeavour

to enumerate as many of them as I think are worth

notice.

The Goosezerriss thrive beft in ftony and rocky ground,
which lies open and much expofed to the Sun. But in
thofe fituations few of the bufhes grow to any height, and
fpread along the ground like vines. The fruit is always
moft plentiful and the fineft on the under-fide of the
branches, probably owing to the reflected heat from the
{tones and gravel, and from being fheltered from all cold
winds and fog by the leaves. I never faw more than one
{pecies of Goofeberry in any part of Hudfon’s Bay, which
is the red one. When green, they make excellent pies or
tarts; and when ripe are very pleafant eating, though by
no means fo large as thofe produced in England.

CRANBERRIES grow in great abundance near Churchill,
and are not confined to any particular fituation, for they
3M he : are

449

Goofe-
berries.

Cranberries,

450

Heath-

berries.

Bethago-

tominick,

A jouRn BY! Tol rar

are as common on open bleak plains and high rocks as
among the woods. When carefully gathered in the Fall,
in dry weather, and as carefully packed in cafks with
moift fugar, they will keep for years, and are annually
fent to England in confiderable quantities as prefents, where

they are much efteemed. When the fhips have remained

in the Bay fo late that the Cranberries are ripe, fome of

the Captains have carried them home in water with great
fuccefs,

The Heatuserrizs are in fome years fo plentiful near
Churchill, that it is impoflible to walk in many places
without treading on thoufands and millions of them.
They grow clofe to the ground, and are a favourite repaft
of many birds that migrate to thofe parts in Summer,
particularly the Grey Goofe; on which account the In-
dians diftinguifh them by the name of Nifhca-minnick,
or the Grey Goofeberry. The juice of this berry Lied
an exceeding pleafant beverage, and the fruit itfelf would
be more pleafing were it not for the number of {mall
feeds it contains.

BETHAGO-ToMINICK, as it is called by the Indians, or the
Dewater-berry of Mr. Dragge. I have feen this berry as
far North as Marble Iland, and that in great abundance.
It flourifhes beft, and is moft produdtive, in fwampy
bogey ground covered with mofs, and is feldom found

among

NORTHERN OCEAN.

among grafs. The plant itfelf is not very unlike that of
a Strawberry, but the leaves are larger. Out of the center
of the plant fhoots a fingle ftalk, fometimes to the height
of feven or eight. inches, and each plant only produces
one berry, which, at’ fome diftance refembles a Straw-
berry; but on examination they have not that conical
form; and many of them are only compofed of three or
four lobes, while others confift of near twenty. The fla-
vour of this berry is far from unpleafing, and it is

eaten by our people in confiderable quantities during the

feafon, (which is Auguft,) and, like all the other fruits
in thofe parts, is fuppofed to be wholefome, and a great

antifcorbutic.

Currans, both red and black, are common about
Churchill River, but the latter are far more plentiful than
the former, and are very large and fine. The buthes
on which thofe currans grow, frequently exceed three
feet in height, and generally thrive beft in thofe parts
that are moift but not fwampy. Small vallies between
the rocks, at fome little diftance from the woods, are
very favourable to them; and I have frequently obferved
that the fruit produced in thofe fituations is larger and
finer than that which is found in the woods. Thofe
berries have a very great effect on fome people if eaten
in any confiderable quantities, by ating as a very pow-
erful purgative, and in fome as an emetic at the fame

3M 2 time ;

ASK

Currans.

452

Juniper-
berries.

Straw-
berries.

A JOURNETIDOSO “Tee

time; but if mixed with Cranberries, they never have
that effec.

Junreer-Berrizs are frequently found near the new
fettlement at Churchill River, but by no means in fuch
plenty as in the more Southern and interior parts of the
country. The bufh they grow on is fo fimilar to the ~
creeping pine, that one half of the Company’s fervants
refiding in Hudfon’s Bay do not know one from the other.
Like the Goofeberry bufhes in thofe parts, the fruit is
always moft plentiful on the under-fide of the branches.

| They are not much efteemed either by the Indians or Eng-

lifh, fo that the few that are made ufe of are generally
infufed in brandy, by way of making a cordial, which is.

far from unpleafant *..

STRAWBERRIES +, and thofe of a confiderable fize and
excellent flavour, are found as far North as Churchill
River; and what is moft remarkable, they are frequently
known to be more plentiful i in fuch places as have formerly
been fet on fire. This is not peculiar to the Strawberry,
but it is well known that in the interior parts of the coun-
try, as well as at Albany and Moofe Forts, that after

* The Indians call the Juniper-berry Caw-caw-cue-minick, or the: Crow-
berry.
+ The Oteagh-minick of the Indians, is fo.called, becaufe it in fome meafure
refembles a heart:.
the:

PNOR FH E RN (Q.C BAN,

the ground, or more properly the under-wood and mofs,
have been fet on fire, that Rafpberry-bufhes and Hips have
fhot up in great numbers on {pots where nothing of the
kind had ever been feen before. This is a phenomenon
that is not eafily accounted for; but it is more than: pro-
bable that Nature wanted fome afliftance, and the mofs
being all burnt away, not only admits the Sun to a& with
more power, but the heat of the fire muft, in fome mea-
fure, loofen the texture of the foil, fo as to admit the
plants to fhoot up, after having been deep-rooted for

453

many years without being able to force their way to the |

furface.

Befides the Berries already mentioned, there are three
others found as far North as Churchill ; ee what the
Indians call the Eye-berry, and the other two are termed

Blue-berry and Partridge-berry by the Englifh. -

The Eyz-serry grows much in the fame manner as the
Strawberry, and though fmaller, is infinitely fuperior in
flavour. This berry is found in various fituations; but
near Churchill River they are moft plentiful in {mall hol-
lows among the rocks, which are fituated fome diftance
from. the woods; but they are never known to grow in
fwampy ground, and I never faw them {fo plentiful in any
part of Hudfon’s Bay as about Churchill River..

The

Eye-berrys-

454

Blue-berry.

Partridge-
berry.

A JOURNEY {To THE ®

The Bius-zerry is about the fize of a Hurtleberry,
and grows on bufhes which rife to eighteen inches or two
feet, but in general are much lower. ‘They are feldom
ripe till September, at which time the leaves turn ‘toa
beautiful red; and the fruit, though fmall, have as fine a

bloom as any plum, and are much efteemed for the plea-

fantnefs of their flavour.

The Parrripce-serry is nearly as large as the Cranberry
imported from Newfoundland, and though of a beautiful
tranfparentred, yet has a difagreeable tafte. Thefe berries are
feldom taken, either by the Indians or Englifh ; and many
of the latter call them Poifon-berries, but feveral birds are
fond of them. They grow clofe to the ground, like the
Cranberry, and the plant that produces them is not very
unlike {mall fage, either in fhape or ipa but has none
of its virtues.

I had nearly forgotten another fpecies of Berry, which is
found on the dry ridges at Churchill in confiderable num-
bers. In fize and colour they much refemble the Red
Curran, and grow on bufhes fo much like the Creeping
Willow, that people of little obfervation {carcely know |
the difference; particularly as all the fruit is on the un-
der-fide of the branches, and entirely hid by the leaves.
I never knew this Berry eaten but by a frolickfome In-
dian girl; and as it had no ill effet, it is a proof it is

5 not

NORTHERN OCEAN. 455

not unwholefome, though exceedingly unpleafant to the
palate, and not much lefs fo to the {mell.

Hires of a {mall fize, though but few in number, are nips.
alfo found on the banks of Churchill River, at fome dif-
‘tance from the fea. But in the interior parts of the
country they are frequently found in fuch vaft quantities,
that at a diftance they make the {pots they grow on appear
perfe@ly red. In the interior parts of Hudfon’s Bay they
are as large as any I ever remember to have feen, and —
when ripe, have a moft delightful bloom ; but at that fea-
fon there is fcarcely one in ten which has not a worm in
it; and they frequently ac as a ftrong purgative.

With refpe& to the fmaller productions of the vege-
table world, I am obliged to be in a great meafure filent,
as the nature of my various occupations during my refi-
dence in this country gave me little leifure, and being
unacquainted with. botany, I viewed with inattention
things that were not of immediate ufe: the few which
follow are all that particularly engaged my attention.

The Wisu-a-ca-pucca, which grows in moft parts of With-a-ca-
this country, is faid by fome Authors to have great me- acy
dical virtues, applied, either inwardly as an alterative, or
outwardly dried and pulverifed, to old fores and gan-
grenes, The truth of this I much doubt, and could

never

456

Jakafhey-

puck.

Mots.

Grafs.

A JOURNEXN UT O WHE

never think it had the leaft medical quality. It is, how-
ever, much ufed by the lower clafs of the Company’s
fervants as tea; and by fome is thought very pleafant.
But the flower is by far the moft delicate, and if gathered
at a proper time, and carefully dried in the fhade, will
retain its flavour for many years, and make a far more
pleafant beverage than the leaves. There are feveral
fpecies of this plant, of which fome of the leaves are nearly
as large as that of the Creeping Willow, while others are
as fmall and narrow as that of the Rofemary, and much
refembles it in colour; but all the fpecies have the fame
{mell and flavour.

Jackasuey-pucx. This herb much refembles Creeping
Box; and is only ufed, either by the Indians or Englith,
to mix with tobacco, which makes it fmoke mild and
pleafant ; and would, I am perfuaded, be very acceptable
to many fmokers in England. ©

Moss of various forts and colours is plentiful enough —
in moft parts of this country, and is what the deer ufually
feed on.

Grass of feveral kinds is alfo found in thofe parts,
and fome of it amazingly rapid of growth, particularly
that which is there called Rye-grafs, and which, in our
fhort Summer at Churchill, frequently grows to the height

of

NORTHERN OCEAN.

of three feet. Another fpecies of Grafs, which is produced
in marfhes, and on the margins of lakes, ponds, and rivers,
is particularly adapted for the fupport of the multitudes of
the feathered creation which refort to thofe parts in Sum-

mer. The Marth Grafs at Churchill is of that peculiar:

nature, that where it is mowed one year, no crop can be
procured the next Summer; whereas at York Fort, though
the climate is not very different, they can get two crops,
or harvefts, from the fame {pot in one Summer. Vetches

are plentiful in fome parts as far North as Churchill River;

and Burrage, Sorrel, and Coltsfoot, may be ranked among

the ufeful plants. Dandeclion-is alfo plentiful at Churchill,

and makes an early falad, long before any thing can be pro-.
duced in the gardens.

In fa&, notwithftanding the length. of the Winter,
the feverity of the cold, and the great {carcity of vege-
tables at this Northern fettlement,, by proper attention to
cleanlinefs, and keeping the people at.reafonable exercife,
I never had one-man. under me who had the leaft fymp-
toms of the {curvy ;, whereas at York Fort, Albany, and
Moofe River, there were almoft annual complaints that one
half of the people were rendered incapable of duty by that
dreadful diforder..

I do not with to lay claim to any merit on this occafion,
but I cannot help obferving that, during ten years I had
3 N the

45.

Trees.

A JOURN-EY, ° &e.

the command at Churchill River, : only two men died of
that diftemper, though my complement at times amounted —
in number to fifty-three. |

The Foreft Trees that grow on this inhofpitable {pot
are very few indeed ; Pine, Juniper, {mall {craggy Poplar,
Creeping Birch, and Dwarf Willows, compofe the whole
catalogue. Farther Weftward the Birch Tree is very plen-
tiful; and in the Athapufcow country, the Pines, Larch,
Poplar, and Birch, grow to a great fize; the Alder is
alfo found there. :

THE oN

= ny re i

The following BOOKS, printed for A.STRAHAN and T. CADELL,

hs

are fold by T.CADELL Fun. and W.DaviEs, Gn to Mr..
CADELL,) 77 the Strand,

. An Account of the VoyacEs undertaken by Order: of his prefent

Majefty, for making Difcoveries in the SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE,
and ‘fucceflively performed by Commodore Byron, Captain Wallis,
Captain Carteret, and Captain Cook, in the Dolphin and Swallow, and
the Endeavour: Drawn up from the Journals which were kept is the
feveral Commanders, and from the Papers of Jofeph Banks Efquire,
and Dr. Solander, by JOHN Hawxeswortu, LL. D.. Iluftrated
with Cuts, and a great variety of Charts and Maps, (in all, 52 Plates,)
relative to the Countries now frit difcovered, or hicherta but im-

perfedtly known. 3 Vols. gto. Price 3/ 125.
a) Phe fame Work in 4 Vols..8vo.,, 17.7840:

~ An Account of a VOYAGE towards the SourH Pots, and round:

the World, performed in his Majefty’s Ships the Refolution and
adwentinre, inthe Years) 1772, (0773. 1774, aad 1775: Written
by JAMEs Coox, Commander cf the Refolution.. In which is in-
cluded Captain Furneaux’s Narrative of his Proceedings in the Ad-
venture, during the Separation of the Ships. Elegantly printed in
two Volumes Royal gto. Iluftrated with Maps and Charts, anda
Variety of Portraits of Perfons, and Views of Places, drawn during
the Voyage by Mr. Hodges, and engraved. by the moft eminent
Mafters. ‘Price2/. 12.0.

DIRECTIONS to the BINDER,

A PLAN exhibiting Mr. Hearne’s Tracks in his-two Journies for
the Difcovery. of the Copper Mine River, in the Years 1770,
1771, and 1772, under the Direétion of the Hudfon’s Bay —
Company. - = - = Lo face the Title-page...

PLATE I. A North Weft View of PrincE oF WALES’s Fort in,

Hudfon’s Bay, North America. - = To face Page +

PLATE II. Indian Implements. = =. =. To face P. 98
Pirate IW. Plan of the Copper Mine River. . To face P. 164.

PratreIV. A Winter View in the ATHAPUSCOW LAKE.
To face P. 248

PLATE V. Indian Webs - - « At the End.
Pirate VI. Plan of ALBANY RIVER in Hudfon’s Bay. At the End.
PLaTeE VII. Plan of Moose River in Hudfon’s Bay. - dt the End.
PLATE VII. Plan of Stups River. - - At the End.

Vee Pages 7g & 124

Sia ion
~

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Jee Pages 250 & 310

London Published Je

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The outermost Point of the South Shore bears die South irom the Ships Birth.

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London, Published San!1 81795, by Cudidld b Davies, Saud .

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