JOURNEY

T O T H E

WESTERN ISLANDS

O F

SCOTLAND.

A NEW EDITION.

LONDON:

Printed for A. STRAHAN; and T. CAD ELL, in the Strand, MDCCXCI,

1711

Strand, Oft. 26, 1785.

SINCE this Work was printed off, the Pub- liflier having been informed that the Author, fome years ago, had promifed the Laird of Rafay, to £orre£, in a future edition, a paiTage concerning him, p. 133, thinks it a juftice due to that Gentleman to infert here the Advertifetnent re- Jative to this matter, which was publifhed, by Dr. Johnfon's defire, in the Edinburgh Newf- papers in the year 1775, and which has been lately reprinted in Mr. Bofwell's Tour to the Hebrides :

" The Authonr of the Journey to the " Weflern Iflands, having related that the " Macleods of Rafay acknowledge the chief- ci tainjhip^ or fuperiority^ of the Macleods of " Sky, finds that he has been mlfinfonned or " miftaken. He means in a future edition to " correct bis err our ^ and wijftes to be told of ', if more, have been difcovercd"

JOURNEY

TO THE

WESTERN ISLANDS

O F

SCOTLAND,

I HAD defired to vifit the Hebrides, or Weftern Iflands of Scotland, fo long, that I fcarcely remember how the wifh was originally excited; and was, in the Autumn of the year 1773, induced to undertake the journey, by finding in Mr. Bofwell a com- panion, whofe acutenefs would help my inquiry, and whofe gaiety of converfatioa and civility of manners are fufficient to B counteract

2 A JOURNEY TO THE

counteract the inconveniencies of travel, in countries lefs hofpitable than we have paffed.

On the eighteenth of Auguft we left Edinburgh, a city too well known to admit defcription, and direded our courfe north- ward, along the eaftern coaft of Scotland, accompanied the firft day by another gentleman, who could ftay with us only long enough to fhew us how much we loft at reparation.

As we crofled the Frith of Forth, our curiofity was attra&ed by Inch Keithy a fmall ifland, which neither of my compa- nions had ever vifited, though, lying within their view, it had all their lives fo- licited their notice. Here, by climbing with fome difficulty over fhattered crags, we made the firft experiment of unfre- quented coafts. Inch Keith is nothing more than a rock covered with a thin

layer

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 3

layer of earth, nor wholly bare of grafs, and very fertile of thirties. A fmall herd of cows grazes annually upon it in the fummer. It feems never to have afforded to man or beaft a permanent habitation.

We found only the ruins of a fmall fort, not fo injured by time but that it might be eafily reftored to its former ftate. It feems never to have been intended as a place of ftrength, nor was built to endure a fiege, but merely to afford cover to a few foldiers, who perhaps had the charge of a battery, or were ftationed to give fignals of approaching danger. There is there- fore no provifion of water within the wall?* though the fpring is fo near, that it might have been eafily enclofed. One of the flones had this infcription : <c Maria Reg. <c 1564." It has probably been neglected from the time that the whole ifland had the fame king.

B 2 We

4 A JOURNEY TO THE

We left this little ifland with our thoughts employed awhile on the different appearance that it would have made, if it had been placed at the fame diftance from London, with the fame facility of approach ; with what emulation of price a few rocky acres would have been pur- chafed, and with what expenfive induftry they would have been cultivated and adorned.

When we landed, we found our chaife ready, and pafled through Kingborn% Kir- kaldy, and Cowpar, places not unlike the fmall or ftraggling market-towns in thofe parts of England where commerce and manufactures have not yet produced opu- lence.

Though we were yet in the moft popu- lous part of Scotland, and at fo fniall a diftance from the capital, we met few paf- fengers.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 5

The roads are neither rough nor dirty ; and it affords a fouthern ftranger a new kind of pleafure to travel fo commodioufiy without the interruption of toll-gates. Where the bottom is rocky, as it feems commonly to be in Scotland, a fmooth way is made indeed with great labour, but it never wants repairs ; and in thofe parts where adventitious materials are neceflary, the ground once confolidated is rarely broken; for the inland commerce is not great, nor are heavy commodities often tranfported otherwife than by water. The carriages in common ufe are fmall carts, drawn each by one little horfe ; and a man feems to derive fome degree of dignity and importance from the reputation of poffefling a two-horfe cart.

ST. ANDREWS.

At an hour fomewhat late we came to

St. Andrews, a city once archiepifcopal ;

B 3 where

6 A JOURNEY TO THE

where that univerfity Hill fubfifts in which philofophy was formerly taught by Bucha- nan, whofe name has as fair a claim to immortality as can be conferred by modern latinity, and perhaps a fairer than the in- ftability of vernacular languages admits.

We found, that by the interpofition of fome invifible friend, lodgings had been provided for us at the houfe of one of the profeflbrs, whofe eafy civility quickly made us forget that we were ftrangers ; and in the whole time of our ftay we were gra- tified by every mode of kindnefs, and en* tertained with all the elegance of lettered hofpitality.

In the morning we rofe to perambulate a city, which only hiftory fhews to have once flourilhed, and furveyed the ruins of ancient magnificence, of which even the ruins cannot long be vifible, unlefs fome Care be taken to preferve them \ and where

is

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 7

is the pleafure of preferving fuch mournful memorials ? They have been till very lately" fo much neglected, that every man carried away the ftones who fancied that he wanted them.

The cathedral, of which the foundations may be ftill traced, and a fmall part of the wall is ftanding, appears to have been a fpacious and majeftick building, not un- fuitable to the primacy of the kingdom. Of the architecture, the poor remains can hardly exhibit, even to an artift, a fuffi- cient fpecimen. It was demolimed, as is well known, in the tumult and violence of Knox's reformation.

Not far from the cathedral, on the mar- gin of the water, ftands a fragment of the caftle, in which the archbifhop anciently refided. It was never very large, and was built with more attention to fecurity than pleafure. Cardinal Beatoun is faid to have B 4 had

8 A JOURNEY TO THE

had workmen employed in improving its fortifications at the time when he was mur- dered by the ruffians of reformation, in the manner of which Knox has given what he himfelf calls a merry narrative.

The change of religion in Scotland, eager and vehement as it was, raifed an epidemical enthufiafm, compounded of ful- len fcrupuloufnefs and warlike ferocity, •which, in a people whom idlenefs refigned to their own thoughts, and who converfing only with each other, fuffered no dilution of their zeal from the gradual influx of new opinions, was long tranfmitted in its full ftrength from the old to the young, but by trade and intercourfe with Eng- land, is now vifibly abating, and giving way too faft to that laxity of practice and indifference of opinion, in which men, not fufficiently inflruded to find the middle point, too eafily (helter themfelves from, rigour and ccnftraint.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 9

The city of St. Andrews, when it had loft its archiepifcopal pre-eminence, gra- Dually decayed : One of its ftreets is now loft ; and in thofe that remain there is the filence and folitude of inactive indigence and gloomy depopulation.

The univerfity, within a few years, con- fitted of three colleges, but is now reduced to two ; the college of St. Leonard being lately diflblved by the fale of its buildings and the appropriation of its revenues to the profeflbrs of the two others. The chapel of the alienated college is yet ftanding, a fahrick not inelegant of external ftru£ture ; but I was always, by fome civil excufe, hindered from entering it. A decent at- tempt, as i was iince told, has been made to convert it into a kind of green-houfe, by planting its area with fhrubs. This new method of gardening is unfucceff- ful ; the plants do not hitherto profper. To what ufe it will next be put, 1 have no

pleafure

io A JOURNEY TO THE

pleafure in conjeduring. It is fomething, that its prefent ftate is at leaft not often- tatioufly difplayed. Where there is yet ihame, there may in time be virtue.

The diffolution of St. Leonard's College was doubtlefs neceflary 5 but of that necef- fity there is reafon to complain. It is furely not without juft reproach, that a nation, of which the commerce is hourly extending, and the wealth increafing, de« nies any participation of its profperity to its literary focieties ; and while its mer- chants or its nobles are raifing palaces, fuf- fers its univerfities to moulder into duft.

Of the two colleges yet ftanding, one is by the inftitution of its founder appro- priated to Divinity. It is faid to be ca- pable of containing fifty ftudents ; but more than one muft occupy a chamber. . The library, which is of late eredion, is not very fpacious, but elegant and luminous.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. n

The doctor, by whom it was fhewn, hoped to irritate or fubdue my Englifh va- nity, by telling me, that we had no fuch repofitory of books in England.

St. Andrews feems to be a place emi- nently adapted to fludy and education, being fituated in a populous, yet a cheap country, and expofing the minds and man- ners of young men neither to the levity and diffolutenefs of a capital city, nor to the grofs luxury of a town of commerce, places naturally unpropitious to learning ; in one the defire of knowledge eafily gives way to the love of pleafure, and in the other, is in danger of yielding to the love of money.

The fludents however are reprefented as at this time not exceeding a hun- dred. Perhaps it may be fome obftruc- tion to their increafe that there is no epifcopal chapel in the place. I faw no

reafon

12 A JOURNEY TO THE

reafon for imputing their paucity to the prefent profeflbrs; nor can the expence of an academical education be very reafon- ably objected. A ftudent of the higheft clafs may keep his annual feffion, or as the Englifh call it, his term, which lafts feven months, for about fifteen pounds, and one of lower rank for lefs than ten ; in which, board, lodging, and inftruclion are all in- cluded,

The chief magiftrate refident in the uni~ verfity, anfwering to our vice-chancellor, and to the reftor magnifaus on the conti- nent, had commonly the title of Lord Redor; but being addrefled only as Mr. Retfor in an inauguratory fpeech by the prefent chancellor, he has fallen from his former dignity of ftyle. Lordfhip was very liberally annexed by our anceftors to any ftation or character of dignity : They faid, the Lord General, and Lord Ambajfador\ fo fey> my Lordt to the judge upon the

circuit,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. ij

circuit, and yet retain in our Liturgy tie Lords of the Council.

In walking among the ruins of reli- gious buildings, we came to two vaults over which had formerly flood the houfe of the fub-prior. One of the vaults was inhabited by an old woman, who claimed the right of abode there, as the widow of a man whofe anceftors had poflefTed the fame gloomy manfion for no lefs than four generations. The right, however it began, was confidered as eftablifhed by legal pre- fcription, and the old woman lives undif-. turbed. She thinks however that fhe has a claim to fomething more than fuffer- ance ; for as her hufband's name was Bruce, fhe is allied to royalty, and told Mr. Bofwell that when there were perfons of quality in the place, (he was diftinguifhed by fome notice; that indeed fhe is now neglected, but (he fpins a thread, has the

company

1.4 A JOURNEY TO THE

company of her cat, and is troublefome to nobody.

Having now feen whatever this ancient city offered to our curiofity, we left it with good wifhes, having reafon to be highly pleafed with the attention that was paid us. But whoever furveys the world muft fee many things that give him pain. - The kindnefs of the profeffors did not contri- bute to abate the uneafy remembrance of an univerfity declining, a college alienated, and a church profaned and haftening to the ground.

St. Andrews indeed has formerly fuf- fered more atrocious ravages and more ex- tenfive deftru&ion, but recent evils affect with greater force. We were reconciled to the fight of archiepifcopal ruins. The di- ftance of a calamity from the prefent time feems to preclude the mind from contad

or

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 15

or fympatby. Events long pad are barely known; they are not confidered. We read with as little emotion the violence of Knox and his followers, as the irruptions of Al- aric and the Goths. Had the univerfity been deftroyed two centuries ago, we fhould not have regretted it ; but to fee it pining in decay and ftruggling for life, fills the mind with mournful images and ineffec- tual wifhes.

ABERBROTHICK.

As we knew forrow and wifhes to be vain, it was now our bufmefs to mind our way. The roads of Scotland afford little diverfion to the traveller, who feldom fees himfelf either encountered or overtaken, and who has nothing to contemplate but grounds that have no vifible boundaries, or are feparated by walls of loofe done. From the bank of the Tweed to St. An- 5 drews

16 A JOURNEY TO THE

drews I had never feen a fingle tree, which I did not believe to have grown up far within the prefent century. Now and then about a gentleman's houfe ftands a fmall plantation, which in Scotch is called a policy, but of thefe there are few, and thofe few all very young. The va- riety of fun and fhade is here utterly un- known. There is no tree for either fhel- ter or timber. The oak and the thorn is equally a ftranger, and the whole country is extended in uniform nakednefs, ex- cept that in the road between Kirkaldy and Cowpar^ I pafled for a few yards between two hedges. A tree might be a fhow in Scotland as a horfe in Venice. At St. Andrews Mr. Bofwelf found only one, and recommended it to my notice; I told him that it was rough and low, or looked as if I thought fo. This, faid he, is nothing to another a few miles off. I was ftill lefs delighted to hear that another tree was not to be feen nearer. Nay, faid a

gentleman

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 17

gentleman that flood by, I know but of this and that tree in the county.

The Lowlands of Scotland had once un- doubtedly an equal portion of woods with other countries, Forefls are every where gradually diminifhed, as architecture and cultivation prevail by the increafe of peo- ple and the introduction of arts. But I believe few regions have been denuded like this, where many centuries muft have pafled in wafte without the leaft thought of future fupply. Davies obferves in his account of Ireland, that no Irifhman had ever planted an orchard. For that neg- ligence fome excufe might be drawn from an unfettled ftate of life, and the inftabi- lity of property; but in Scotland poffeffion has long been fecure, and inheritance re- gular, yet it may be doubted whether be- fore the Union any man between Edinburgh and England had ever fet a tree.

Of

i« A JOURNEY TO THE

Of this improvidence no other account can be given than that it probably began in times of tumult, and continued becaufe it had begun. Eftablifhed cuftom is not eafily broken, till fome great event {hakes the whole fyftem of things, and life feems to recommence upon new principles. That before the Union the Scots had little trade and little money, is no valid apology ; for plantation is the leaft expenfive of all me- thods of improvement. To drop a feed into the ground can coft nothing, and the trouble is not great of protecting the young plant, till it is out of danger ; though it muft be allowed to have fome difficulty in places like thefe, where they have neither wood for palifades, nor thorns for hedges.

Our way was over the Firth of Tay, where, though the water was not wide, we paid four (hillings for ferrying the chaife. In Scotland the necefiaries of life are eafily

procured,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 19

procured, but fuperfluities and elegancies are of the fame price at lead as in Eng-> land, and therefore may be confidered as much dearer.

We flopped a while at Dundee, where I remember nothing remarkable, and mount- ing our chaife again, came about the clofe of the day to Aberbrothick.

The monaftery of Aberbrothick is of great renown in the hiftory of Scotland. Its ruins afford ample teflimony of its an- cient magnificence : Its extent might, I fuppofe, eafily be found by following the walls among the grafs and weeds, and its height is known by fome parts yet ftanding. The arch of one of the gates is entire, and of another only fo far di- lapidated as to diverfify the appearance. A fquare apartment of great loftinefs is yet {landing; its ufe I could not conjecture, as its ejevation was very difproportionate

C 2 tO

20 A JOURNEY TO THE

to its area. Two corner towers particu- larly attracted our attention. Mr. Bofwell, whofe inquifitivenefs is feconded by great adivity, fcrambled in at a high window, but found the flairs within broken, and could not reach the top. Of the other tower we were told 'that the inhabitants fometimes climbed it, but we did not immediately difcern the entrance, and as the night was gathering upon us, thought proper to defift. Men {killed in architec- ture might do what we did not attempt : They might probably form an exadt ground* plot of this venerable edifice. They may from fome parts yet {landing conjecture its general form, and perhaps by comparing it with other buildings of the fame kind and the fame age, attain an idea very near to truth. I fhould fcarcely have regretted my journey, had it afforded nothing more than the fight of Aberbrothick.

MON-

.. \

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.

MONTROSE.

Leaving thefe fragments of magnificence, we travelled on to Montrofe, which we fur- veyed in the morning, and found it well built, airy, and clean. The town-houfe is a handforne fabrick with a portico. We then went to view the Englifh chapel, and found a fmall church, clean to a degree unknown in any other part of Scotland, with commodious galleries, and what was yet lefs expeded, with an organ.

At our inn we did not find a reception fuch as we thought proportionate to the commercial opulence of the place; but Mr. Bofwell defired me to obferve that the inn- keeper was an Englishman, and I then de- fended him as well as I could.

When I had proceeded thus far, I had

opportunities of obferving what I had ne-

C 3 ver

12 A JOURNEY TO THE

ver heard, that there were many beggars in Scotland. In Edinburgh the proportion is, I think, not lefs than in London, and in the fmaller places it is far greater than in Englifh towns of the fame extent. It muft, however, be allowed that they are not importunate, nor clamorous. They folicit filently, or very modeftly, and there- fore though their behaviour may ftrike with more force the heart of a ftranger, they are certainly in danger of miffing the attention of their countrymen. Novelty has always fome power, an unaccuftomed mode of begging excites an unaccuftomed degree of pity. But the force of novelty is by its own nature foon at an end ; the efficacy of outcry and perfeverance is per- manent and certain.

The road from Montrofe exhibited a continuation of the fame appearances. The country is ftill naked, the hedges are of ftone> and the fields fo generally plowed

that

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 23

that it is hard to imagine where grafs is found for the horfes that till them. The harveft, which was almoft ripe, appeared very plentiful.

Early in the afternoon Mr. Bofwell ob- ferved that we were at no great diftance from the houfe of Lord Monboddo. The magnetifm of his converfation eafily drew us out of our way, and the entertainment which we received would have been a fuf- ficient recompence for a much greater de- viation.

The roads beyond Edinburgh, as they are lefs frequented, muft be expected to grow gradually rougher ; but they were hitherto by no means incommodious. We travelled on with the gentle pace of a Scotch driver, who having no rivals in ex- pedition, neither gives himfelf nor his horfes unneceffary trouble. We did not affect; the impatience we did not feel, bat C 4 were

H A JOURNEY TO THE

were fatisfied with the company of each other as well riding in the chaife, as fitting at an inn. The night and the day are equally folitary and equally fafe ; for where there are fo few travellers, why fhould there be robbers ?

ABERDEEN.

We came fomewhat late to Aberdeen, and found the inn fo full, that we had fome difficulty in obtaining admiffion, till Mr. Bofwell made himfelf known : His name overpowered all objection, and we found a very good houfe and civil treat- ment.

I received the next day a very kind let- ter from Sir Alexander Gordon, whom I had formerly known in London, and after a ceffation of all intercourfe f9r near twenty years met here profeflbr of phyfic in the King's College. Such unexpected 3 renewals

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 25

renewals of acquaintance may be num- bered among the moft pleating incidents of life.

The knowledge of one profeflbr foon procured me the notice of the reft, and I did not want any token of regard, being conducted wherever there was any thing which I defired to fee, and entertained at once with the novelty of the place, and the kindnefs of communication.

To write of the cities of our own ifland with the folemnity of geographical defcrip- tion, as, if we had been caft upon a newly difcovered coaft, has the appearance of very frivolous oftentation ; yet as Scot- land is little known to the greater part of thofe who may read thefe obfervations, it is not fuperfluous to relate, that under the name of Aberdeen are comprifed two towns ftanding about a mile diftant from each

other,

*6 A JOURNEY TO THE

other, but governed, I think, by the fame magiflrates.

Old Aberdeen is the ancient epifcopal city, in which are ftill to be feen the re- mains of the cathedral. It has the ap- pearance of a town in decay, having been fituated in times when commerce was yet unftudied, with very little attention to the commodities of the harbour.

New Aberdeen has all the buftle of pro- fperous trade, and all the mow of increaf- ing opulence. It is built by the water- fide. The houfes are large and lofty, and the ftreets fpacious and clean. They build almoft wholly with the granite ufed in the new pavement of the ftreets of London, which is well known not to want hardnefs, yet they (hape it eafily. It is beautiful and muft be very lafting.

What

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 27

What particular parts of commerce are chiefly exercifed by the merchants of Aber- deen, I have not inquired. The manu- facture which forces itfelf upon a Granger's eye is that of knit-ftockings, on which the women of the lower clafs are vifibly employed.

In each of thefe towns there is a col- lege, or in ftrider language, an univer- fity ; for in both there are profeffors of the fame parts of learning, and the col- leges hold their ieflions and confer degrees feparately, with total independence of one on the other.

In Old Aberdeen ftands the King's Col- lege, of which the firft prefident was He 51 or Boece, or Boethius^ who may be juftly reverenced one of the revivers of ele- gant learning. When he ftudied at Paris, he was acquainted with Erafmiis, who af- terwards gave him a publick teftimony of

his

S3 A JOURNEY TO THE

his efteem, by infcribing to him a cata- logue of his works. The ftyle of Boethius, though, perhaps, not always rigoroufly pure, is formed with great diligence upon ancient models, and wholly uninfected with monadic barbarity. His hiftory is written with elegance and vigour, but his fabuloufnefs and credulity are juftly blamed. His fabuloufnefs, if he was the author of the fictions, is a fault for which no apo- logy can be made; but his credulity may be excufed in an age, when all men were credulous. Learning was then rifing on the world ; but ages fo long accuflomed to darknefs, were too much dazzled with its light to fee any thing diftindtly. The firft race of fcholars in the fifteenth cen- tury, and fome time after, were, for the moft part, learning to fpeak, rather than to think, and were therefore more ftudious of elegance than of truth. The contem- poraries of Boethius thought it fufficient to know what the ancients had delivered.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 29

The examination of tenets and of fads was referved for another generation.

Boethius, as prefident of the univerfity, enjoyed a revenue of forty Scottifh marks, about two pounds four {hillings and fix- pence of fterling money. In the prefent age of trade and taxes, it is difficult even for the imagination fo to raife the value of money, or fo to diminifh. the demands of life, as to fuppofe four and forty (hil- lings a year, an honourable ftipend ; yet it was probably equal, not only to the needs, but to the rank of Boethius. The wealth of England was undoubtedly to that of Scotland more than five to one, and it is known that Henry the Eighth, among whofe faults avarice was never reckoned, granted to Roger Afcham, as a reward of his learning, a penfion of 10 pounds a year.

The other, called the Marifchal College, is in the new town. The hall is large and well

lighted.

jo A JOURNEY TO THE

lighted. One of its ornaments is the pic- ture of Arthur Johnfton, who was princi- pal of the college, and who holds among the Latin poets of Scotland the next place to the elegant Buchanan.

In the library I was fliewn fome curi- ofities ; a Hebrew manufcript of exquifite penmanfhip, and a Latin tranflation of Ariilotle's Politicks by Leonardus Aretinus^ written in the Roman character with nicety and beauty, which, as the art of printing has made them no longer neceffary, are not now to be found. This was one of the lateft performances of the transcribers, for Aretinus died but about twenty years before typography was invented. This verfion has been printed, and may be found in libraries, but is little read ; for the fame books have been fince tranflated both by Vitforius and Lambinus, who lived in an age more cultivated ; but perhaps owed in

part

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 31

part to Aretinus that they were able to excel him. Much is due to thofe who firft broke the way to knowledge, and left only to their fucceffors the tafk of fmooth- ing it.

In both thefe colleges the methods of in- ftru&ion are nearly the fame ; the lectures differing only by the accidental difference of diligence, or ability in the profeflbrs. The ftudents wear fcarlet gowns and the profeflbrs black, which is, I believe, the academical drefs in all the Scottijh univer- fities, except that of Edinburgh, where the fcholars are not diftingui&ed by any particular habit. In the King's College there is kept a publick table, but the fcho- lars of the Marifchal College are boarded in the town. The expence of living is kere, according to the information that I could obtain, fomewhat more than at St. Andrews.

The

32 A JOURNEY TO THE

The courfe of education is extended td four years, at the end of which thofe who take a degree, who sre not many, become matters of arts, and whoever is a mafter may, if he pleafes, immediately commence doctor. The title of dodor, however, was for a confiderable time bellowed only on phyficians. The advocates are examined and approved by their own body ; the mi- nifters were not ambitious of titles, or were afraid of being cenfurcd for ambition; and the doctorate in every faculty was com- monly given or fold into other countries. The minifters are now reconciled to diftino tion, and as it.muft always happen that fome will excel others, have thought gra- duation a proper teftimony of uncommon abilities or acquifitionSi

The indifcriminate collation of degrees has juilly taken away that refpect which they originally claimed as flamps, by which the literary value of men fo difting\iimed

was

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. £}

was authoritatively dendted. That ada- demical honours, or any others, ihould be Conferred with exa£b proportion to merit, is more than human judgment or hu- man integrity have given reafon to ex- pect* Perhaps degrees in univerfities can- not be better adjufted by any general rule, than by the length of time pafled in the public profeffion of learning. An Englifli or Irifh doctorate cannot be obtained by 1 very young man, and it is reafonable to fuppofe, what is likewife by experience commonly found true, that he who is by age qualified to be a doctor, has in fo much time gained learning fufficient not to difgrace the title, or wit fufficient not to defire it*

The Scotch univerfities hold but one term or feflion in the year. That of Sta Andrews continues eight months, that of Aberdeen only five, from the firft of No- vember to the firft of April,

D la

34 A JOURNEY TO THE

In Aberdeen there is an Englifh chapel, in which the congregation was numerous and fplendid. The form of public wor- fhip ufed by the church of England is in Scotland legally pradifed in licenfed cha- pels, ferved by clergymen of Englifli or Irifh ordination, and by tacit connivance quietly permitted in feparate congregations fupplied with minifters by the fucceflbrs of the bifhops who were deprived at the Revolution.

We came to Aberdeen on Saturday Auguft 21. On Monday we were invited into the town-hall, where I had the free- dom of the city given me by the Lord Provoft. The honour conferred had all the decorations that politenefs could add, and what I am afraid I fhould not have had to fay of any city fouth of the Tweed, I found no petty officer bowing for a fee.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c* 35

The parchment containing the record of admiffion, is with the feal appending, faftened to a riband, and worn for one day by the new citizen in his hafc

By a lady who faw us at the chapel, the Earl of Errdl was informed of our arrival, and we had the honour of an invitation to his feat, called Slanes Caftle, as I am told, improperly, from the caftle of that name, which once flood at a place not far diftant.

The road beyond Aberdeen grew more ftony, and continued equally naked of all vegetable decoration. We travelled over/ a tracl of ground near the fea, which, not long ago, fuffered a very uncommon and unexpected calamity. The fand of the fhore was raifed by a tempeft in fuch quan- tities, and carried to fuch a diftance, that an eftate was overwhelmed and loft. Such and fo hopelefs was the barrennefs fuperin- duced, that the owner, when he was re- D 2 quired

36 A JOURNEY TO THE

quired to pay the ufual tax, defired rather to refign the ground.

SLANES CASTLE. THE BULLER OF BUCHAN.

We came in the afternoon to Slanes Co/lie, built upon the margin of the fea, fo that the walls of one of the towers feem only a continuation of a perpendicular rock, the foot of which is beaten by the waves. To walk round the houfe feemed impra£ticable> From the windows the eye wanders over the fea that feparates Scot- land from Norway, and when the winds beat with violence, muft enjoy all the ter- rifick grandeur of the tempeftuous ocean. I would not for my amufement wifh for a ftorm; but as ftorms, whether wifhed or not, will fometimes happen, I may fay without violation of humanity, that I fliould willingly look out upon them from Slanes Caftle,

When

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 37

When we were about to take our leave, our departure was prohibited by the Coun- tefs, till we fboqld have feen two places upon the coaft, which fhe rightly corifi- dered as worthy of curiofity, Dim Buy, and the Eulkr of Bucban, to which Mr. Boyd very kindly conducted us.

Dun Buy^ which in Erfe is faid to fig- nify the Tellow-Rcck, is a double protu- berance of ftone, open to the main fea on one fide, and parted from the land by a very narrow channel on the other. It has its name and its colour from the dung of innumerable fea-fowls, which in the Spring chufe this place as convenient for incubation, and have their eggs and their young taken in great abundance. One of the birds that frequent this rock has, as we were told, its body not larger than a duck's, and yet lays eggs as large as thofe of a goofe. This bird is by the inha- P 3 bitants

38 A JOURNEY TO THE

bitants named a Coot. That which is called Coot in England, is here a Cooter.

Upon thefe rocks there was nothing that could long detain attention, and we foon turned pur eyes to the Butler, or Bouilkir of Buchari) which no man can fee with in- difference, who has either fenfe of dan- ger or delight in rarity. It is a rock per- pendicularly tubulated, united on one fide with a high fhore, and on the other rifing fteep to a great height, above the main fea. The top is open, from which may be feen a dark gulf of water which flows into the cavity, through a breach made ia the lower part of the inclofing rock. It has the appearance of a vaft well bordered with a wall. The edge of the Buller is not wide, and to thofe that walk round, appears very narrow. He that ventures to look downward fees, that if his foot fliould flip, he muft fall from his dreadful ele- vation

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 39

vation upon ftones on one fide or into the water on the other. We however went round, and were glad when the circuit was completed.

When we came down to the fea, we faw fome boats, and rowers, and refolved to explore the" Duller, at the Bottom. We entered the arch, which the water had made, and found ourfelves in a place, which, though we could not think ourfelves in dan- ger, we could fcarcely furvey without fome recoil of the mind. The bafon in which we floated was nearly circular, perhaps thirty yards in diameter. We were in- clofed by a natural wall, rifing fteep on every fide to a height which produced the idea of infurmountable confinement. The interception of all lateral light caufed a difmal gloom. Round us was a perpen- dicular rock, above us the diftant fky, and below an unknown profundity of water. If I had any malice againft a walking fpi- D 4 rit,

40 A JOURNEY TO THE

rit, inftead of laying him in the Red-tea, would condemn him to refide ia the Buller of Buchan.

But terrour without danger is only one of the fports of fancy, a voluntary agita- tion of the mind that is permitted no longer than it pleafes. We were foon at leifure to examine the place with minute in- fpedion, and found many cavities which, 38 the watermen told us, went backward to a depth which they had never explored. Their extent we had not time to try ; they are fajd to ferve different purpofes. Ladies come hither fometimes in the fummer with collations, and fmugglers make them ftore- Jioufes for clandeftine merchandife. Jt is Jiardly to be doubted but the pirates of an- cient times often ufed them as magazines of arms, or repertories of plunder.

TO the little veflels ufed by the northern the Buller may have ferved as a.

flicker

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 41

flielter from ftorms, and perhaps as a re- treat from enemies ; the entrance might have been flopped, or guarded with little difficulty, and though the veflels that were flationed within would have been battered with ftones fhowered on them from above, yet the crews would have lain fafe in the caverns.

Next morning we continued our jour- ney, pleafed with our reception at Slanes Caftle, of which we had now leifure to recount the grandeur and the elegance ; for our way afforded us few topics of con- verfation. The ground was neither uncul- tivated nor unfruitful ; but it was ftill all arable. Of flocks or herds there was no appearance. I had now travelled two hun- dred miles in Scotland, and feen only one tree not younger than myfelf.

BAMFF.

42 A JOURNEY TO THE

B A M F F.

We dined this day at the houfe of Mr. Frazer of Streichton, who fhewed us in his grounds feme (tones yet {landing of a druidical circle, and what I began to think more worthy of notice, fome foreft trees of full growth.

At night we came to Bamff, where I remember nothing that particularly claimed my attention. The ancient towns of Scot- land have generally an appearance unufual to Englifhmen. The houfes, whether great or fmall, are for the moft part built of ftones. Their ends are now and then next the ftreets, and the entrance into them is very often by a flight of fteps, which reaches up to the fecond ftory. The floor which is level with the ground, being entered only by flairs defcending within the houfe.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 43

The art of joining fquares of glafs with lead is little ufed in Scotland, and in fome places is totally forgotten. The frames of their windows are all of wood. They are more frugal of their glafs than the Englifh, and will often, in houfes not otherwife mean, compofe a fquare of two pieces, not joining like cracked glafs, but with one edge laid perhaps half an inch over the other. Their windows do not move upon hinges, but are pufhed up and drawn down in grooves, yet they are feldom ac- commodated with weights and pullies. He that would have his window open muft hold it with his hand, unlefs what may be fometimes found among good contrivers, there be a nail which he may flick into a hole, to keep it from falling.

What cannot be done without fome un- common trouble or particular expedient, will not often be done at all. The incom- modioufnefs of the Scotch windows keeps 4 them

44 A JOURNEY TO THE

them very clofely {hut. The neceflity of ventilating human habitations has not yet been found by our northern neighbours; and even in houles well built and elegantly furnifhed, a ftranger may be fometimes forgiven, if he allows himfelf to wifli for freiher air,

1 "hefe diminutive obfervations feem to take away fomething from the dignity of writing, and therefore are never commu- nicated but with hefitation, and a little fear of abafement and contempt. But it muft be remembered, that life confifts not of a feries of illuflrious actions, or elegant en- joyments ; the greater part of our time pafles in compliance with neceflities, in the performance of daily duties, in the re- moval of fmall inconveniencies, in the pro- curement of petty pleafures ; and we are well or ill at eafe, as the main ftream of life glides on fmoothly, or is ruffled by fmall obflacles and frequent interruption.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 45

The true ftate of every nation is the ftate of common life. The manners of a people are not to be found in the fchools of learn- ing, or the palaces of greatnefs, where the national character is obfcured or oblite- rated by travel or inftruction, by philo- fophy or vanity; nor is public happinefs, to be eftimated by the aflemblies of the gay, or the banquets of the rich. The great mafs of nations is neither rich nor gay : they whofe aggregate conftitutes the people, are found in the ftreets, and the villages, in the fhops and farms; and from, them collectively confidered, muft the rneafure of general profperity be taken* As they approach to delicacy a nation is refined, as their conveniencies are multiplied^ a na- tion, at leaft a commercial nation, mull be denominated wealthy.

ELGIN.

46 A JOURNEY TO TH£

ELGIN.

Finding nothing to detain us at Bamft$ we fet out in the morning, and having breakfafted at Cullen, about noon came to Elgin, where in the inn, that we fuppofed the beft, a dinner was fet before us, which we could not eat. This was the firft time, and except one, the laft, that I found any rea- fon to complain of a Scottifli table; and fuch difappointments, I fuppofe, muft be ex- pected in every country, where there is no great frequency of travellers*

The ruins of the cathedral of Elgin afforded us another proof of the wafte of reformation. There is enough yet re- maining to {hew, that it was once magni- ficent. Its whole plot is eafily traced. On the north fide of the choir, the chapter- houfe, which is roofed with an arch of Hone, remains entire ; and on the fouth fide, another mafs of building, which we

could

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 47

could not enter, is preferved by the care of the family of Gordon ; but ihe body of the church is a mafs of fragments.

A paper was here put into our hands, which deduced from fufficient authorities the hiftory of this venerable ruin. The church of Elgin had, in the inteftine tu- mults of the barbarous ages, been laid wafte by the irruption of a highland chief, whom the bifhop had offended ; but it was gradually reftored to the ftate* of which the traces may be now difcerned* and was at laft not deftroyed by the tu- multuous violence of Knox, but more fhamefully fuffered to dilapidate by deli- berate robbery and frigid indifference* There is ftill extant, in the books of the council, an order, of which I cannot re* member the date, but which was doubtlefs iflfued after the reformation, directing that the lead, which covers the two cathedrals of Elgin and Aberdeen, {hall be taken

away>

48 A JOURNEY TO THE

away, and converted into money for the fupport of the army. A Scotch army was in thofe times very cheaply kept ; yet the lead of two churches muft have born fo fmall a proportion to any military expence, that it is hard not to believe the reafon alleged to be merely popular, and the money intended for fome private purfe. The order however was obeyed \ the two churches were dripped, and the lead was {hipped to be fold in Holland. I hope every reader will 'rejoice that this cargo of facrilege was loft at fea.

Let us not however make too much hafte to defpife our neighbours. Our own ca- thedrals are mouldering by unregarded di* lapidation. It feems to be part of the def- picable philofophy of the time to defpife mo- numents of facred magnificence, and we are in danger of doing that deliberately, which the Scots did not do but in the unfettled ftate of an imperfecT; conflitution,

Thofe

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 49

Thofe who had once uncovered the ca- thedrals never wiftied to cover them again: and being thus made ufelefs, they were firft neglected, and perhaps, as the (tone was wanted, afterwards demolifhed.

Elgin feems a place of little trade, and thinly inhabited. The epifcopal cities of Scotland, I believe, generally fell with their churches, though fome of them have fince recovered by a fituation convenient for commerce. Thus G/aJgow, though it has no longer an archbifhop, has rifen beyond its original ftate by the opulence of its traders ; and Aberdeen > though its ancient flock had decayed, flourifhes by a new flioot in another place.

In the chief ftreet of Elgin, the houfes jut over the lowed ftory, like the old buildings of timber in London, but with greater prominence; fo that there is fome- times a walk for a confiderable length E under

50 A JOURNEY TO THE

under a cloifter, or portico, which is now indeed frequently broken, becaufe the new houfes have another form, but feems to have been uniformly continued in the old city.

FORES. CALDER. FORT GEORGE.

We went forwards the fame day to Fores, the town to which Macbeth was travelling, when he met the weird fitters in his way. This to an Englishman is claffic ground. Our imaginations were heated, and our thoughts recalled to their old amufements.

We had now a prelude to the High- lands. We began to leave fertility and cul- ture behind us, and faw for a great length of road nothing but heath ; yet at Focha- b rs> a feat belonging to the duke of Gordon, there is aa orchard, which in

Scotland

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 51

Scotland I had never feen before, with fome timber trees, and a plantation of oaks.

At Fores we found good accommoda- tion, but nothing worthy of particular re- mark, and next morning entered upon the road, on which Macbeth heard the fatal prediction; but we travelled on not inter- rupted by promifes of kingdoms, and came to Nairn^ a royal burgh, which, if once it flourimed, is now in a ftate of miferable decay ; but I know not whether its chief annual magiftrate has not ftill the title of Lord Provoft.

At Nairn we may fix the verge of the Highlands ; for here I firft faw peat fires, and firft heard the Erfe language. We had no motive to flay longer than to break- faft, and went forward to the houfe of Mr. Macaulay, the minifter who publifhed an account of St. Kilda, and by his di~ reclion vifited Calder Caftle, from which E 2 Macbeth

52 A JOURNEY TO THE

Macbeth drew his fecond title. It has been formerly a place of ftrength. The draw-bridge is ftill to be feen, but the moat is now dry. The tower is very an- cient. Its walls are of great thicknefs* arched on the top with ftone, and fur- rounded with battlements. The reft of the houfe is later, though far from modern.

We were favoured by a gentleman, who lives in the caftle, with a letter to one of the officers at Fort George, which being the moft regular fortification in the ifland, well deferves the notice of a traveller, who has never travelled before. We went thi- ther next day, found a very kind recep- tion, were led round the works by a gen- tleman, who explained the ufe of every part, and entertained by Sir Eyre Coote, the governor, with fuch elegance of con- verfation as left us no attention to the de- licacies of his table.

Of

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 53

Of Fort George I (hall not attempt to give any account. I cannot delineate it fcientifically, and a loofe and popular de- fcription is of ufe only when the imagina- tion is to be amufed. There was every- where an appearance of the utmoft neat- nefs and regularity. But my fuffrage is of little value, becaufe this and Fort Auguftus are the only garrifons that 1 ever faw.

We did not regret the time fpent at the fort, though in confequence of our delay we came fomewhat late to Invernefs, the town which may properly be called the ca- pital of the Highlands. Hither the inha- bitants of the inland parts come to be fup- plied with what they cannot make for themfelves : Hither the young nymphs of the mountains and valleys are fent for edu- cation, and as far as my obfervation has reached, are not fent in vain.

E 3 INVER-

54 A JOURNEY TO THE

INVERNESS.

Invernefs was the laft place which had a regular communication by high roads with the fouthern counties. All the ways beyond it have, I believe, been made by the foldiers in this century. At Invernefs therefore Cromwell, when he fubdued Scot- land, ftationed a garrifon, as at the boun- dary of the Highlands. The foldiers feem to have incorporated afterwards with the inhabitants, and to have peopled the place with an Englifh race ; for the language of this town has been long confidered as peculiarly elegant.

Here is a caftle, called the caftle of Mac- beth, the walls of which are yet (landing. It was no very capacious edifice, but (lands upon a rock fo high and fleep, that I think it was once not acceflible,^ but by the help of ladders, or a bridge. Over

againft

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 55

againft it, on another hill, was a fort built by Cromwell, now totally demoliihed ; for no faction of Scotland loved the name of Crowwelli or had any defire to continue his memory.

Yet what the Romans did to other na- tions, was in a great degree done by Crom- well to the Scots ; he civilized them by conqueft, and introduced by ufeful violence the arts of peace. I was told at Aber- deen that the people learned from Crom- well's foldiers to make fhoes and to plant kail.

How they lived without kail, it is not eafy to guefs : They cultivate hardly any other plant for common tables, and when they had not kail they probably had no- thing. The numbers that go barefoot are (Till fufficient to {hew that fhoes may be fpared ; they are not yet confidered as ne- ceflaries of life ; for tall boys, not other- E 4 wife

56 A JOURNEY TO THE

wife meanly drefled, run without them in the ftreets and in the iflands ; the fons of gentlemen pafs feveral of their firft yeara with naked feet.

I know not whether it be not peculiar to the Scots to have attained the liberal, without the manual arts, to have excelled in ornamental knowledge, and to have wanted not only the elegancies, but the conveniencies of common life. Literature, foon after its revival, found its way to Scotland, and from the middle of the fix- teenth century, almoft to the middle of the feventeenth, the politer ftudies were very diligently purfued. The Latin poetry of Delicicz Poet arum Scotorum would have done honour to any nation, at leaft till the publication of Mays Supplement the Eng- lifh had very little to oppofe.

Yet men thus ingenious and inquifitive were content to live in total ignorance of

the

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 57

the tiades by which human wants are fup- plied, and to fupply them by the grofieft means. Till the Union made them ao quainted with Englifh manners, the cul- ture of their lands was unfkilful, and their domeftick life unformed ; their tables were coarfe as the feafts of Efkimeaux, and their houfes filthy as the cottages of Hot- tentots.

Since they have known that their condi- tion was capable of improvement, their progrefs in ufeful knowledge has been ra- pid and uniform. What remains to be done they will quickly do, and then won- der, like me, why that which was fo ne- ceflary and fo eafy was fo long delayed. But they muft be for ever content to owe to the Englifh that elegance and culture, which, if they had been vigilant and active, perhaps the Engliih might have owed to them.

Here

58 A JOURNEY TO THE

- Here the appearance of life began to alter. I had feen a few women with plaids at Aberdeen\ but at Invernefs the Highland manners are common. There is I think a kirk, in which only the Erfe language is ufed. There is likewife an Englifh chapel, but meanly built, where on Sunday we faw a very decent congregation.

We were now to bid farewell to the luxury of travelling, and to enter a coun- try upon which perhaps no wheel has ever rolled. We could indeed have ufed our poft-chaife one day longer, along the mi- litary road to Fort Augujius, but we could have hired no horfes beyond Invernefs, and we were not fo fparing of ourfelves, as to lead them, merely that we might have one day longer the indulgence of a carriage.

At Invernefs therefore we procured three horfes for ourfelves and a fervant, and one

more

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. £9

more for our baggage, which was no very heavy load. We found in the courfe of our journey the convenience of having difencumbered ourfelves, by laying afide whatever we could fpare ; for it is not to be imagined without experience, how in climbing crags, and treading bogs, and winding through narrow and obftruded paffages, a little bulk will hinder, and a little weight will burden ; or how often a man that has pleafed himfelf at home with his own refolution, will, in the hour of darknefs and fatigue, be content to leave behind him every thing but himfelf.

LOUGH NESS.

We took two Highlanders to run befide us, partly to mew us the way, and partly to take back from the fea-fide the horfes, of which they were the owners. One of them was a man of great livelinefs and activity, of whom his companion faid,

that

Co A JOURNEY TO THE

that he would tire any horfe in Invernefs, Both of them were civil and ready-handed. Civility feems part of the national charac- ter of Highlanders. Every chieftain is a monarch, and politenefs, the natural pro- duct of royal government, is diffufed from the laird through the whole clan. But they are not ' commonly dextrous: their narrownefs of life confines them to a few operations, and they are accuftomed to en- dure little wants more than to remove them.

We mounted our fteeds on the thirteenth of Auguft, and dire&ed our guides to con-* duct us to Fort Auguftus. It is built at the head of Lough Nefs, of which Inver- nefs ftands at the outlet. The way be- tween them has been cut by the foldiers, and the greater part of it runs along a rock, levelled with great labour and exa£tnefs, near the water-fide.

Moft

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 61

Moft of this day's journey was very pleafant. The day, though bright, was not hot ; and the appearance of the coun- try, if I had not feen the Peak, would have been wholly new. We went upon a furface fo hard and level, that we had tittle care to hold the bridle, and were therefore at full leifure for contemplation* On the left were high and fteep rocks {haded with birch, the hardy native of the North, and covered with fera or heath. On the right the limpid waters of Lough Nefs were beating their bank, and waving their furface by a gentle agitation. Beyond them were rocks fometimes covered with verdure, and fometimes towering in horrid nakednefs. Now and then we efpied a little corn-field, which ferved to imprefs more ftrongly the general barrennefs.

Lough Nefs is about twenty-four miles long, and from one mile to two miles broad.

It is remarkable that Boethlus^ in his de-

•>«*

3 fcription

62 A JOURNEY TO THE

fcription of Scotland, gives it twelve miles of breadth. When hiftorians or geogra- phers exhibit falfe accounts of places far diftant, they may be forgiven, becaufe they can tell but what they are told ; and that their accounts exceed the truth may be juftly fuppofed, becaufe moft men exagge- rate to others, if not to themfelves : but Boethius lived at no great diftance ; if he never faw the lake, he mud have been very incurious, and if he had feen it, his veracity yielded to very flight temptations.

Lough Nefs, though not twelve miles broad, is a very remarkable diffufion of water without iflands. It fills a large hol- low between two ridges of high rocks, being fupplied partly by the torrents which fall into it on either fide, and partly, as is fuppofed, by.fprings at the bottom. Its water it remarkably clear and pleafant, and is imagined by the natives to be medicinal. We were told, that it is in forne places a

hundred

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 63

hundred and forty fathom deep, a profun- dity fcarcely credible, and which probably thofe that relate it have never founded. Its fi(h are falmon, trout, and pike.

It was faid at Fort Augujlu^ that Lough Nefs is open in the hardell winters, though a lake not far from it is covered with ice. In difcuffing thefe exceptions from the courfe of nature, the firft queftion is, whe- ther the fad be juftly ftated. That which is ftrange is delightful, and a pleafing er- ror is not willingly detected. Accuracy of narration is not very common, and there are few fo rigidly philofophical, as not to reprefent as perpetual, what is only fre- quent, or as conftant, what is really cafual. If it be true that Lough Nefs never freezes, it is either iheltered by its high banks from the cold blafts, and expofed only to thofe winds which have more power to agitate than congeal ; or it is kept in perpetual motion by the rulh of ftreams from the

rocks

64 A JOURNEY TO THE

rocks that inclofe it. Its profundity, though it fhould be fuch as is reprefented, can have little part in this exemption ; for though deep wells are not frozen, becaufe their water- is fecluded from the external air, yet where a wide furface is expofed to the full influence of a freezing atmofphere, I know not why the depth fhould keep it open. Natural philofophy is now one of the favourite ftudies of the Scottifh nation, and Lough Nefs well deferves to be dili- gently examined.

The road on which we travelled, and which was itfelf a fource of entertainment, is made along the rock, in the direction of the lough, fometimes by breaking off pro- tuberances, and fometimes by cutting the great mafs of ftone to a confiderable depth. The fragments are piled in a loofe wall on cither fide, with apertures left at very fhort fpaces, to give a paflage to the wintry currents. Part of it is bordered with low

trees,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 65

tree?, from which our guides gathered nuts, and would have had the appearance of an Englifh lane, except that an Englifh lane is almoft always dirty. It has been made with great labour, but has this ad- vantage, that it cannot, without equal labour, be broken up.

Within our fight there were goats feed- ing or playing. The mountains have red deer, but they came not within view ; and if what is faid of their vigilance and fub- tlety be true, they have fome claim to that palm of wifdom, which the eaftern philo- fopher, whom Alexander interrogated, gave to thofe beafts which live furtheft from men.

Near the way,, by the water fide, we efpied a cottage. This was the firft High- land Hut that I had feen ; and as our bufi- nefs was with life and manners, we were willing to vifit it. To enter a habitation without leave, feems to be not confidered F here

66 A JOURNEY TO THE

here as rudenefs or intrufion. The old laws of hofpitality ftill give this licence to a ftranger.

A hut is conftruded with loofe ftones, ranged for the moft part with fome ten- dency to circularity. It muft be placed where the wind cannot aft upon it with violence, becaufe it has no cement ; and where the water will run eafily away, be- caufe it has no floor but the naked ground. The wall, which is commonly about fix feet high, declines from the perpendicular a little inward. Such rafters as can be procured are then raifed for a roof, and covered with heath, which makes a ftrong and warm thatch, kept from flying off by ropes of twifted heath, of which the ends, reaching from the centre of the thatch to the top of the wall, are held firm by the weight of a large ftone. No light is ad- mitted but at the entrance, and through a hole in the thatch, which gives vent to the fmoke. This hole is not directly over the

fire,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 67

fire, left the rain fhould extinguifh it ; and the fmoke therefore naturally fills the place before it efcapes. Such is the general flruc- ture of the houfes in which one of the na- tions of this opulent and powerful ifland has been hitherto content to live. Huts how- ever are not more uniform than palaces; and this which we were infpeding was very far from one of the meaneft, for it was divided into feveral apartments ; and its inhabit- ants pofiefied fuch property as a paftoral poet might exalt into riches.

When we entered, we found an old woman boiling goats-flem in a kettle. She fpoke little Englifh, but we had inter- preters at hand ; and fhe was willing enough to difplay her whole fyftem of economy. She has five children, of which none are yet gone from her. The elded, a boy of thirteen, and her hufLand, who is eighty years old, were at work in the wood. Her two next fons were gone to F 2 Invernefi

63 A JOURNEY TO THE

Invernefs to buy meal> by which oatmeal is always meant. Meal me confidered as expenfive food, and told us, that in Spring when the goats gave milk, the children could live without it. She is miftrefs of fixty goats, and I faw many kids in an enclofure at the end of her houfe. She had alfo fome poultry. By the lake we faw a potatoe-garden, and a fmall fpot of ground on which flood four fhucks, containing each twelve fheaves of barley. She has all this from the labour of their own hands, and for what is neceffary to be bought, her kids and her chickens are fent to market.

With the true paftoral hofpitality, fhe afked us to fit down and drink whifky. She is religious, and though the kirk is four miles off, probably eight Englifli miles, fhe goes thither every Sunday. We gave her a fhilling, and fhe begged fnuff ; for fnuff is the luxury of a Highland cot- tage.

Soon

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 69

Soon afterwards we came to the General Hut, fo called becaufe it was the temporary abode of Wade, while he fuperintended the works upon the road. It is now a houfe of entertainment for pafTengers, and we found it not ill flocked with provifions.

FALL OF FIERS.

Towards evening we crofTed by a bridge, the river which makes the celebrated fall of Fiers. The country at the bridge ftrikes the imagination with all the gloom and grandeur of Siberian folitude. The way makes a flexure, and the mountains, covered with trees, rife at once on the left hand and in the front. We defired our kguides to fhew us the fall, and difmounting clambered over very rugged craggs, till I be- gan to wifh that our curiofity might have been gratified with lefs trouble and danger. We came at lafl to a place where we could overlook the river, and faw a channel torn, F 3 as

70 A JOURNEY TO THE

as it feems, through black piles of flone, by which the ftream is obMrucled and broken, till it comes to a very fleep defcent, of fuch dreadful depth, that we were na- turally inclined to turn afide our eyes.

But we vifited the place at an unfeafon- able time, and found it divefted of its dignity and terror. Nature never gives every thing at once. A long continuance of dry weather, which made the reft of the way eafy'and delightful, deprived us of the pleafure expected from the fall of Fiers. The river having now ho water but what the fprings fupply, fhowed us only a fwift current, clear and (hallow, fretting over the afperities of the rocky bottom, and we were left to exercife cur thoughts, by endeavouring to conceive the efft<£t of a thoufand ftreams poured from the mountains into one channel, ftruggling for expanfion in a narrow paiTage, exaf- perated by rocks rifing in their way, and

at

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 71

at laft difcharging all their violence of waters by a fudden fall through the horrid chafm.

The way now grew lefs eafy, defcending by an uneven declivity, but without either dirt or danger. We did not arrive at Fort Auguftus till it was late. Mr. Bojwel/, who, between his father's merit and his own, is fure of reception wherever he comes, fent a fervant before to beg admiffion and entertainment for that night. Mr. Tra- paud, the governor, treated us with that courtefy which is fo clofely conneded with the military chara&er. He came out to meet us beyond the gates, and apologized that, at fo late an hour, the rules of a garrifon fuffered him to give us entrance only at the poftern.

FORT AUGUSTUS.

In the morning we viewed the fort,

which is much lefs than that of St. George,

F 4 and

72 A JOURNEY TO THE

and is faid to be commanded by the neigh- bouring hills. It was not long ago taken by the Highlanders. But its fituation feems well chofen for pleafure, if not for ftrength ; it ftands at the head of the lake, and, by a floop of fixty tuns, is fupplied from In- •vernefs with great convenience.

We were now to crofs the Highlands towards the weftern coaft, and to content ourfelves with fuch accommodations, as a way fo little frequented could afford. The journey was not formidable, for it was but of two days, very unequally divided, be- caufe the only houfe, where we could be entertained, was not further off than a third of the way. We foon came to a high hill, which we mounted by a military road, cut in traverfes, fo that as we went upon a higher ftage, we faw the baggage following us below in a contrary diredioa. To make this way, the rock has been hewn to a level with labour that might have

broken

WESTERN ISLANDS, fee. 73

broken the perfeverance of a Roman legion.

The country is totally denuded of its wood, but the flumps both of oaks and firs, which are ftill found, fhew that it has been once a foreft of large timber. I do not remember that we faw any animals, but we were told that, in the mountains, there are flags, roebucks, goats, and rabbits.

We did not perceive that this tract was poflefled by human beings, except that once we faw a corn-field, in which a lady was walking with fome gentlemen. Their houfe was certainly at no great diftance, but fo fituated that we could not defcry it.

Faffing on through the drearinefs of folitude, we found a party of foldiers from, the fort, working on the road, under the fuperintendence of a ferjeant. We told

them

74 A JOURNEY TO THE

them how kindly we had been treated at the garrifon, and as we were enjoying the benefit of their, labours, begged leave to {hew our gratitude by a fmall prefent.

A N O C H.

Early in the afternoon we came to Anoch, a village in GknmoWfon of three huts, one of which is diftinguifhed by a chimney. Here we were to dine and lodge, and were conducted through the firft room, that had the chimney, into another lighted by a fmall glafs window. The landlord at- tended us with great civility, and told us what he could give us to eat and drink. I found fome books on a fhelf, among which were a volume or more of Prjdeaux's Connection.

This I mentioned as fomething unex- pected, and perceived that I did not pleafe him. I praifed the propriety of his lan- guage,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 75

guage, and was anfwered that I need not wonder, for he had learned it by grammar.

By fbbfequent opportunities of obfer- vation I found that my hod's di&ion had nothing peculiar. Thofe Highlanders that can fpeak Englifh, commonly fpeak it well, with few of the words, and little of the tone by which a Scotchman is diftinguifh- ed. Their language feems to have been learned in the army or the navy, or by fome communication with thofe who could give them good examples of accent and pronunciation. By their Lowland neigh- bours they would not willingly be taught; for they have long confidered them as a mean and degenerate race. Thefe preju- dices are wearing faft away ; but fo much of them ftill remains, that when I afked a very learned minifler in the iflands, which they confidered as their moft favage clans : u fbofe, faid he, that live next the Low- « lands*

6 As

76 A JOURNEY TO THE

As we came hither early in the day, we had time fufficient to furvey the place. The houfe was built like other huts of loofe ftones, but the part in which we dined and flept was lined with turf and wattled with twigs, which kept the earth from falling. Near it was a garden of turnips and a field of potatoes. It ftands in a glen, or valley, pleafantly watered by a winding river. But this country, how- ever it may delight the gazer or amufe the naturalift, is of no great advantage to its owners. Our landlord told us of a gen- tleman, who poffefTes lands, eighteen Scotch miles in length, and three in breadth; a fpace containing at leafl a hun- dred fquare Englifh miles. He has raifed his rents to the danger of depopulat- ing his farms, and he fells his timber, and by exerting every art of augmen- tation, has obtained an yearly revenue of four hundred pounds, which for a

hundred

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 77

hundred fquare miles is three half-pence an acre.

Some time after dinner we were fur- prifed by the entrance of a young woman, not inelegant either in mien or drefs, who afked us whether we would have tea. We found that fhe was the daughter of our hoft, and defired her to make it. Her converfation, like her appearance, was gentle and pleafing. We knew that the girls of the Highlands are all gentlewo- men, and treated her with great refped, which fhe received as cuflomary and due, and was neither elated by it, nor confufed, but repaid my civilities without embarraff- ment, and told me how much I honoured her country by coming to furvey it.

She had been at irroernefs to gain the common female qualifications, and had, like her father, the Englim pronunciation. I prefented her with a book, which I hap- pened

73 A JOURNEY TO THE

pened to have about me, and fhould not be pleafed to think that {he forgets me.

In the evening the foldiers, whom we had pafled on the road, came to fpend at our inn the little money that we had given them. They had the true military impa- tience of coin in their pockets, and had marched at leaft fix miles to find the firft place where liquor could be bought. Hav- ing never been before in a place fo wild and unfrequented, 1 was glad of their ar- rival, becaufe I knew that we had made them friends, and to gain ftill more of their good will, we went to them, where they were caroufing in the barn, and added fomething to our former gift. All that we gave was not "much, but it detained them in the barn, either merry or quarrelling, the whole night, and in the morning they went back to their work, with great indig- nation at the bad qualities of whifky.

We

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 79

We had gained fo much the favour of our hoft, that when we left his houfe in the morning, he walked by us a great way, and entertained us with converfation both on his own condition, and that c< the country. His life feemed to be merely j af- toral, except that he differed from fome of the ancient Nomades in having a fet- tled dwelling. His wealth confifts of one hundred (heep, as many goats, twelve milk- cows, and twenty-eight beeves ready for the drovers.

From him we firft heard of the gene- ral diflatisfa&ion, which is now driving the Highlanders into the other hemifphere ; and when I afked him whether they would ftay at home, if they were well treated, he anfwered with indignation, that no man willingly left his native country. Of the farm, which he himfelf occupied, the rent had, in twenty- five years, been advanced from five to twenty pounds, which he

found

8o A JOURNEY TO THE

found himfelf fo little able to pay, that he would be glad to try his fortune in feme other place. Yet he owned the reafonable- nefs of raifmg the Highland rents in a cer- tain degree, and declared himfelf willing to pay ten pounds for the ground which he had formerly had for five.

Our hoft having amufed us for a time, refigned us to our guides. The journey of this day was long, not that the diftance was great, but that the way was diffi- cult. We were now in the bofom of the Highlands, with full leifure to contem- plate the appearance and properties of mountainous regions, fuch as have been, in many countries, the laft fhelters of na- tional diftrefs, and are every where the fcenes of adventures, ftratagems, furprifes, and efcapes.

Mountainous countries are not pafTed but with difficulty, not merely from the

labour

WESTERN ISLANDS, Sec. Si

labour of climbing ; for to climb is not always neceflary: but becaufe that which is not mountain is commonly bog, through which the way muft be picked with cau- tion. Where there are hills, there is much rain, and the torrents pouring down into the intermediate fpaces, feldom find fo ready an outlet, as not to ftagnate till they have broken the texture of the ground.

Of the hills, which our journey offered to the view on either fide, we did not take the height, nor did we fee any that afto- nifhed us with their loftinefs. Towards the fummit of one, there was a white fjpot, which I fhould have called a naked rock, but the guides, who had better eyes, and were acquainted with the phe- nomena of the country, declared it to be fnow. It had already lafted to the end of Auguft, and was likely to maintain its conteft with the fun, till it fhould be rein- forced by winter.

G The

82 A JOURNEY TO THE

The height of mountains philofophically confidered is properly computed from the furface of the next fea; but as it affe&s the eye or imagination of the paflenger, as it makes either a fpe&acle or an obftruo tion, it muft be reckoned from the place where the rife begins to make a confider- able angle with the plain. In extenfive continents the land may, by gradual ele- vation, attain great height, without any other appearance than that of a plane gently inclined, and if a hill placed upon fuch raifed ground be defcribed, as hav- ing its altitude equal to the whole fpace above the fea, the reprefentation will be fallacious.

Thefe mountains may be properly enough meafured from the inland bafe; for it is not much above the fea. As we advanced at evening towards the weftern coaft, I did not obferve the declivity to be greater

than

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. sj

than is neceffary for the difcharge of the inland waterSi

We pafled many rivers and rivulets, which commonly ran with a clear {hallow ftream over a hard pebbly bottom. Thefe channels, which feem fo much wider thaii the water that they convey would naturally require, are formed by the Tiolence of •wintry floods, produced by the accumu- lation of innumerable ftreams that fall in rainy weather from the hills, and burfl- ing away with refiftlefs impetuofity, make themfelves a paflage proportionate to their mafs.

Such capricious and temporary waters Cannot be expeded to produce many fifh* The rapidity of the wintry deluge fweeps them away* and the fcantinefs of the fum-4- mer ftream would hardly fuftain them above the ground. This is the reafon why G 2 in

84 A JOURNEY TO THE

in fording the northern rivers, no fifties are feen, as in England, wandering in the water.

Of the hills many may be called with Homer's Ida abundant in fprings, but few can deferve the epithet which he beftows upon Pel ion by waving their leaves. They exhibit very little variety ; being almoft wholly covered with dark heath, and even that feems to be checked in its growth. What is not heath is nakednefs, a little diverfified by now and then a ftream rufh- ing down the fteep. An eye accuftomed to flowery paftures and waving harvefts is aftonifhed and repelled by this wide ex- tent of hppelefs fterility. The appearance is that of matter incapable of form or ufefulnefs, difmiffed by nature from her care and difmherited of her favours, left in its original elemental ftate, or quickened only with one fallen power of ufelefs ve- getation.

It

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. $5

•

It will very readily occur, that this uni- formity of barrennefs can afford very little amufement to the traveller; that it is eafy to fit at home and conceive rocks and heath, and waterfalls; and that thefe jour- neys are ufelefs labours, which neither impregnate the imagination, nor enlarge the underftanding. It is true that of far the greater part of things, we muft content ourfelves with fuch knowledge as defcrip- tion may exhibit, or analogy fupply ; but it is true likewife, that thefe ideas are always incomplete, and that at leaft, till \ve have compared them with realities, we do not know them to be juft. As we fee more, we become poffeffed of more cer- tainties, and confequently gain more prin- ciples of reafoning, and found a wicler bafis of analogy.

Regions mountainous and wild, thinly

inhabited, and little cultivated, make a

G 3 great

86 A JOURNEY TO THE

great part of the earth, and he that has never feen them, muft live unacquainted •with much of the face of nature, and with one of the great fcenes of human ex- iftence.

As the day advanced towards noon, we entered a narrow valley not very flowery, but fufficiently verdant. Our guides told us, that the horfes could not travel all day without reft or meat, and entreated us to flop here, becaufe no grafs would be found in any other place. The requeft was rea- fonable and the argument cogent. We therefore willingly difmounted and diverted ourfelves as the place gave us oppor-? tunity.

I fat down on a bank, fuch as a writer of Romance might have delighted to feign. I had indeed no trees to whifper over my head, but a clear rivulet ftreamed at

my

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 87

my feet. The day was calm, the air foft, and all was rudenefs, filence, and folitude. Before me, and on either fide, were high hills, which by hindering the eye from ranging, forced the mind to find enter- tainment for itfelf. Whether I fpent the hour well I know not ; for here I firft conceived the thought of this nar- ration.

We were in this place at eafe and by choice, and had no evils to fuffer or to fear ; yet the imaginations excited by the view of an unknown and untravelled wil- dernefs are not fuch as arife in the ar- tificial folitude of parks and gardens, a flattering notion of felf-fufficiency, a pla- cid indulgence of voluntary delufions, a fecure expanfion of the fancy, or a cool concentration of the mental powers. The phantoms which haunt a defert are want, and mifery, and danger ; the evils of dereliction rufh upon the thoughts ; man is G 4 made

88 A JOURNEY TO THE

made unwillingly acquainted with his own weaknefs, and meditation mews him only how little he can fuftain, and how little he can perform. There were no traces of inhabitants, except perhaps a rude pile of clods called a fummer hut, in which a herdfman had refted in the favourable leafons. L Whoever had been in the place where I then fat, unprovided with pro- vifions and ignorant of the country, might, at lead before the roads were made, have wandered among the rocks, till he had pe- rimed with hardship, before he could have found either food or fhelter. Yet what are thefe hillocks to the ridges of Taurus, or thefe fpots of wildnefs to the defarts of America ?

It was not long before we were invited to mount, and continued our journey along the fide of a lough, kept full by many ftreams, which with more or lefs rapidity and noife crofted the road from the hills

on

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 98

on the other hand. Thefe currents, in, their diminiflied ftate, after feveral dry months, afford, to one who has always lived in level countries, an unufual and delightful fpe£tacle ; but in the rainy fea- ion, fuch as every winter may be expected to bring, muft precipitate an impetuous and tremendous flood. I fuppofe the way by which we went, is at that time im- paffable*

GLENSHEALS.

The lough at laft ended in a river broad and (hallow like the reft, but that it may be pafled when it is deeper, there is a bridge over it. Beyond it is a valley called Glen/heals, inhabited by the clan of Mac- rae. Here we found a village called Auk- no/heals, confifting of many huts, perhaps twenty, built all of dry-Jlone> that is, ftones piled up without mortar.

?o A JOURNEY TO THE

We had, by the direction of the officers at Fort Augujlu^ taken bread for ourfelves, and tobacco for thofe Highlanders who might (hew us any kindnefs. We were now at a place where we could obtain milk, but muft have wanted bread if we had not brought it. The people of this valley did not appear to know any Englifh, and our guides now became doubly necefiary as interpreters, A woman, whole hut was diftinguifhed by greater fpacioufnefs and better architecture, brought out fome pails of milk. The villagers gathered about us in confiderable numbers, I believe without any evil intention, but with a very favage wildnefs of afped and manner. When our meal was over, Mr. Bofivell fliced the bread, and divided it amongft them, as he fuppofed them never to have tafted a wheaten loaf before. He then gave them, little pieces of twifted tobacco, and among the children we diftributed a fmall handful of halfpence, which they received with

great;

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c, 91

great eagernefs. Yet I have been fince told, that the people of that valley are not indigent 3 and when we mentioned them afterwards as needy and pitiable, a High- land lady let us know, that we might fpare our commiferation ; for the dame whofe milk we drank had probably more than a dozen milk- cows. She feemed un- willing to take any price, but being prefled to make a demand, at laft named a fhilling, Honefty is not greater where elegance is lefs. One of the by-ftanders, as we were told afterwards, advifed her to afk more, but fhe faid a (hilling was enough. We gave her half a crown, and I hope got fome credit by our behaviour ; for the com- pany faid, if our interpreters did not flat- ter us, that they had not feen fuch a day fince the old laird of Macleod pafled through their country.

The Macraes, as we heard afterwards in

the Hebrides, were originally an indigent

I and

92 A JOURNEY TO THE

and fubordinate clan, and having no farms nor ftock, were in great numbers fervants to the Maclellans, who, in the war of Charles the Firft, took arms at the call of the heroic Montrofe, and were, in one of his battles, almoft all deftroyed. The wo- men that were left at home, being thus deprived of their hufbands, like the Scy- thian ladies of old, married their fervants, and the Macraes became a confiderable race.

THE HIGHLANDS.

As we continued our journey, we were at leifure to extend our fpeculations, and to inveftigate the reafon of thofe peculia- rities by which fuch rugged regions as thefe before us are generally diftinguifhed.

Mountainous countries commonly con- tain the original, at leaft the oldeft race of inhabitants, for they are not eafily con- quered,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 93

quered, becaufe they muft be entered by narrow ways, expofed to every power of mifchief from thofe that occupy the heights; and every new ridge is a new fortrefs, where the defendants have again the fame advantages. If the affailants either force the ftrait, or ftorm the fummit, they gain only fo much ground ; their enemies are fled to take pofleflion of the next rock, and the purfuers ftand at gaze, knowing nei- ther where the ways of efcape wind among the fleeps, nor where the bog has firmnefs to fuftain them : befides that, mountaineers have an agility in climbing and defcending diftincl: from ftrength or courage, and at- tainable only by 'life.

If the war be not foon concluded, the invaders are diflodged by hunger ; for in thofe anxious and toilfome marches, pro- vifions cannot eafily be carried, and are never to be found. The wealth of moun- tains is cattle, which, while the men ftand in the pafles, the women drive away.

Such

94 A JOURKEY TO THE

Such lands at laft cannot repay the expencg of conqueft, and therefore perhaps have not been fo often invaded by the mere am- bition of dominion ; as by refentment of robberies and infults* or the defire of enjoying in fecurity the more fruitful pro- vinces.

As mountains are long before they are conquered, they are likewife long before they are civilized. Men are foftened by intercourfe mutually profitable, and in- ftru&ed by comparing their own notions with thofe of others. Thus Casfar found the maritime parts of Britain made lefs barbarous by their commerce with the Gauls. Into a barren and rough trad no ftranger is brought either by the hope of gain or of pleafure. The inhabitants having neither commodities for fale, nor money for purchafe, feldom vifit more polifhed places, or if they do vifit them feldom re-- turn.

It

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 95

It fometimes happens that by conqueft, intermixture, or gradual refinement, the cultivated parts of a country change their language. The mountaineers then become a diilincl: nation, cut off by diilimilitude of fpeech from converfation with their neighbours. Thus in Bifcay, the original Cantabrian, and in Dalecarlia, the old Swe- difh ftill fubfifts. Thus Wales and the Highlands fpeak the tongue of the firft inhabitants of Britain, while the other parts have received firfl the Saxon, and in fome degree afterwards the French, and then formed a third language between them.

That the primitive manners are conti- nued where the primitive language is fpoken, no nation will defire me to fuppofe, for the manners of mountaineers are com- monly favage, but they are rather produced by their Situation than derived from their anceftors.

Such

56 A JOURNEY TO THE

Such feems to be the difpofition of man, that whatever makes a diftinction produces rivalry. England, before other caufes of enmity were found> was difturbed for fome centuries by the contefts of the northern and fouthern counties ; fo that at Oxford, the peace of ftudy could for a long time be preferved only by chufing annually one of the prodors from each fide of the Trent. A tract interfered by many ridges of mountains, naturally divides its inhabit- ants into petty nations, which are made by a thoufand caufes enemies to each other* Each will exalt its own chiefs, each will boaft the valour of its men, or the beauty of its women, and every claim of fupe- riority irritates competition ; injuries will fometimes be done, and be more injurioufly defended ; retaliation will fometimes be at- tempted, and the debt exacted with too much intereft.

In the Highlands it was a law, that if a robber was flickered from juftice, any

man

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 97

man of the fame clan might be taken in his place. This was a kind of irregular juftice, which, though necefiary in favage times, could hardly fail to end in a feud, and a feud once kindled among an idle people with no variety of purfuits to divert their thoughts, hurnt on for ages either fullenly glowing in fecret mifchief, or open- ly blazing into public violence. Of the effects of this violent judicature, there are not wanting memorials. The cave is now to be feen to which one of the Campbells, who had injured the Macdonalds, retired with a body of his own clan. The Mac- donalds required the offender, and being refufed, made a fire at the mouth of the cave, by which he and his adherents were fuffocated together.

Mountaineers are warlike, becaufe by

their feuds and competitions they confider

themfelves as furrounded with enemies, and

are always prepared to repel incurfions, or

H to

9* A JOURNEY TO THE

to make them. Like the Greeks in their unpolifhed ftate, defcribed by Thucydides, the Plighlanders, till lately, went always armed, and carried their weapons to vifits, and to church.

Mountaineers are thievim, becaufe they are poor, and having neither manufactures nor commerce, can grow richer only by robbery. They regularly plunder their neighbours, for their neighbours are com- monly their enemies ; and having loft that reverence for property, by which the order of civil life is preferved, foon confider all as enemies, whom they do not reckon as friends, and think themfelves licenfed to invade whatever they are not obliged to protect.

By a ftrid adminiftration of the laws, fmce the laws have been introduced into the Highlands, this difpofition to thievery is very much repreft, Thirty years ago no

herd

WESTERN ISLANDS, Sec. 99

herd had ever been conducted through the mountains, without paying tribute in the Anight to fome of the clans ; but cattle are now driven, and paflengers travel without danger, fear, or moleftation.

Among a warlike people, the quality of higheft efteem h perfonal courage, and with the oftentatious difplay of courage are clofely connected promptitude of offence and quicknefs of refentment. The High- landers, before they were difarmed, were fo addicted to quarrels, that the boys tifed to follow any publick proceflion or cere- mony, however feftive, or however folemn, in expectation of the battle, which was fure to happen before the company dif- perfed.

Mountainous regions are fometimes fo

remote from the feat of government, and

fo difficult of accefs, that they are very

little under the influence of the fovereign,

H 2 or

ioo A JOURNEY TO THE

or within the reach of national jufticc* Law is 'nothing without power ; and the fentence of a diftant court could not be eafily executed, nor perhaps very fafely promulgated, among men ignorantly proud and habitually violent, unconnected with the general fyftem, and accuftomed to re- verence only their own lords. It has there- fore been neceffary to ered many parti- cular jurifdidtions, and commit the punifh- ment of crimes, and the decifion of right to the proprietors of the country who could enforce their own decrees. Jt immediately appear s that fuch judges will be often igno- rant, and often partial ; but in the imma- turity of political eftabliftiments no better expedient could be found. As government advances towards perfection, provincial judicature is perhaps in every empire gra- dually abolifhed.

Thofe who had thus the difpenfation of law, were by confequence themfelves law-

lefs.

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 101

lefs. Their vaflals had no fhelter from outrages and oppreffions ; but were con- demned to endure, without refiftance, the caprices of wantonnefs, and the rage of cruelty.

In the Highlands, fome great lords had an hereditary jurifdi&ion over counties; and fome chieftains over their own lands ; till the final conqueft of the Highlands afforded an opportunity of crufhing all the local courts, and of extending the general bene- fits of equal law to the low and the high, in the deepeft recefles and obfcureft cor- ners.

While the chiefs had this refemblance of royalty, they had little inclination to appeal, on any queftion, to fuperior judica- tures. A claim of lands between two powerful lairds was decided like a conteft for dominion between fovereign powers. They drew their forces into the field, and H 3 right

102 A JOURNEY TO THE

right attended on the ftrongeft. This was, in ruder times, the common pradice, which the kings of Scotland could feldom control.

Even fo lately as in the laft years of King William, a battle was fought at Mull Roy, on a plain a few miles to the fouth of In- vernefs, between the clans of Mackintofo and Macdonald of Keppocb. Col. Macdo- nahi, the head of a fmall clan, refufed to pay the dues demanded from him by Mac- kintojh) as his fuperior lord. They dif- dained the interpofition of judges and laws, and calling each bis followers to maintain the dignity of the clan, fought a formal battle, in which feveral considerable men fell on the fide of Mackinto/h^ without a complete victory to either. This is faid to have been the laft open war made between the clans by their own authority.

The Highland lords made treaties, and formed alliances, of which fome traces may

ftill

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 103

flill be found, and fome confequences flill remain as lading evidences of petty rega- lity. The terms of one of thefe confede- racies were, that each fhould fupport the other in the right, or in the wrong, ex- cept againft the king.

The inhabitants of mountains form dif- tind races, and are careful to preferve their genealogies. Men in a fmall diftricT: ne- ceflarily mingle blood by intermarriages, and combine at laft into one family, with a common intereft in the honour and dif- grace of every individual. Then begins that union of affe£tions, and co-operation of endeavours, that conftitute a clan. They who confider themfelves as ennobled by their family, will think highly of their progenitors, and they who through fuc- ceffive generations live always together in the fame place, will preferve local ftories #nd hereditary prejudices. Thus every Jlighlander can talk of his anceftors, and H 4 recount

104 A JOURNEY TO THE

recount the outrages which they fuffered from the wicked inhabitants of the next valley.

Such are the effects of habitation among mountains, and fuch were the qualities of the Highlanders, while their rocks fecluded them from the reft of mankind, and kept them an unaltered and difcriminated race. They are now loling their diftin&ion, and haftening to mingle with the general com- munity.

G L E N E L G.

We left Auknajheals and the Macraes in the afternoon, and in the evening came to Ratikeit) a high hill on which a road is cut, but fo fteep and narrow, that it is very difficult. There is now a defign of making another way round the bottom. Upon one of the precipices, my horfe, weary with the fteepnefs of the rife, ftaggered a little,

and

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 105

and I called in hafte to the Highlander to hold him. This was the only moment of my journey, in which I thought my felf en- dangered.

Having furmounted the hill at laft, we were told that at Glenelg^ on the fea-fide, we mould come to a houfe of lime and flate and glafs. This image of magnifi- cence raifed our expectation. At laft we came to our inn weary and peevith, and began to inquire for meat and beds,

Of the provifions the negative catalogue was very copious. Here was no meat, no milk, no bread, no eggs, no wine. We did not exprefs much fatisfaclion. Here however we were to ftay. Whifky we might have, atid I believe at laft they caught a fowl and killed it. We had fome bread, and with that we prepared ourfelves to be contented, when we had a very emi- nent proof of Highland hofpitality. Along

fome

ic5 A JOURNEY TO THE

feme miles of the way, in the evening, a gentleman's fervant had kept us company on foot with very little notice on our part. He left us near Glenelg, and we thought on him no more till he came to us again, in about two hours, with a prefent from his matter of rum and fugar. The man had mentioned his company, and the gentleman, whofe name, I think, is Gordon, well knowing the penury of the place, had this attention to two men, whofe names perhaps he had not heard, by whom his kindnefs was not likely to be ever repaid, and who could be recommended to him him only by their neceflities.

We were now to examine our lodging* Out of one of the beds, on which we were to repofe, ftarted up, at bur entrance, a man black as a Cyclops from the forge. Other circumftances of no elegant recital concurred to difgiift us. We had been frighted by a lady at Edinburgh, with

difcouraging

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 107

difcouraging reprefentations of Highland lodgings. Sleep, however, was neceflary. Our Highlanders had at laft found fome hay, with which the inn could not fupply them. I directed them to bring a bundle into the room, and flept upon it in my riding coat. Mr. Bofwell being more deli- cate, laid himfelf iheets with hay over and under him, and lay in linen like a gentle- man,

SKY. ARMYDEL.

In the morning, September the twen- tieth, we found ourfelves on the edge of the fea. Having procured a boat, we dif- miffed our Highlanders, whom I would recommend to the fervice of any future travellers, and were ferried over to the ifle of Sky. We landed at Armidel, where we were met on the fands by Sir Alexander Macdonald, who was at that time there with his lady, preparing to leave the ifland

and refide at Edinburgh.

13 Armidel

io8 A JOURNEY TO THE

Armldel is a neat houfe, built where the Macdonalds had once a feat, which was burnt in the commotions that followed the Revolution. The walled orchard, which belonged to the former houfe, ftili remains. It is well fhaded by tall am trees, of a fpecies, as Mr. Janes the foflilift informed me, uncommonly valuable. This planta- tion is very properly mentioned by Dr. Campbell, in his new account of the flate of Britain^ and deferves attention; becaufe it proves that the prefent nakednefs of the Hebrides is not wholly the fault of nature.

As we fat at Sir Alexander's table, we •were entertained, according to the anqent ufage of the North, with the melody of the bagpipe, Every thing in thofe coun- tries has its hiftory. As the bagpiper was playing, an elderly gentleman informed us, that in fome remote time, the Macdo- nalds of Glengary having been injured, or offended by the inhabitants of Citlhden*

and

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 109

and refolving to have juftice or vengeance, came to Culhden on a Sunday, where find- ing their enemies at worfhip, they fhut them' up in the church, which they fet on fire; and this, faid he, is the tune that the piper played while they were burning.

Narrations like this, however uncertain, deferve the notice of a traveller, becaufe they are the only records of a nation that has no hiftorians, and afford the moft ge- nuine reprefentation of the life and cha- racter of the ancient Highlanders.

Under the denomination of Highlander are comprehended in Scotland all that now fpeak the Erfe language, or retain the pri- mitive manners, whether they live among the mountains or in the iflands; and in that fenfe I ufe the name, when there is not fome apparent reafon for making a diftindion.

In

no A JOURNEY TO THE

In Sky I firft obferved the ufe of Brogues, a kind of artlefs fhoes, ditched with thongs fo loofely, that though they defend the foot from ftones, they do not exclude water. Brogues were formerly made of raw hides, with the hair inwards, and fuch are perhaps ftill ufed in rude and re- mote parts; but they are faid not to laft above two days. Where life is fomewhat improved, they are now made of leather tanned with oak bark, as in other places, or with the bark of birch, or roots of tor- mentil, a fubftance recommended in defecl: of bark, about forty years ago, to the Irifh tanners, by one to whom the parliament of that kingdom voted a reward. The leather of Sky is not completely penetrated by vegetable matter, and therefore cannot be very durable.

My inquiries about brogues, gave me an early fpecimen of Highland informa- tion.

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. in

tion. One day I was told, that to make brogues was a domeftic art, which every man pradifed for himfelf, and that a pair of brogues was the work of an hour. I fuppofed that the hufband made brogues as the wife made an apron, till next day it was told me, that a brogue-maker was 'a trade, and that a pair would coft half a crown. It will eafily occur that thefe re- prefentations may both be true, and that, in fome places, men may buy them, and in others, make them for themfelves 5 but I had both the accounts in the fame houfe within two days.

Many of my fubfequent inquiries upon more interefting topicks ended in the like uncertainty. He that travels in the High- lands may eafily faturate his foul with in- telligence, if he will acquiefce in the firft account. The Highlander gives to every queftion an anfwer fo prompt and peremp- tory, that ikepticifm itfelf is dared into

filence,

ii2 A JOURNEY TO THE

filence, and the mind finks before the bold reporter in unrefifting credulity; but if a fecond queftion be ventured, it breaks the enchantment; for it is immediately dif- covered, that what was told fo confidently was told at hazard, and that fuch fearleffnefs of aflertion was either the fport of negli- gence, or the refuge of ignorance.

If individuals are thus at variance with themfelves, it can be no wonder that the ac- counts of different men are contradictory. The traditions of an ignorant and favage people have been for ages negligently heard, and unfkilfully related. Diftant events muft have been mingled together, and the actions of one man given to another. Thefe, however, are deficiencies in ftory, for which no man is now to be cenfured. It were enough, if what there is yet op- portunity of examining were accurately infpe&ed, and juftly reprefented; but fuch is the laxity of Highland converfation, that

the

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 113

the inquirer is kept in continual fufpenfej and by a kind of intellectual retrogradatior^ knows lefs as he hears more*

4F

In the iflands the plaid is rarely worn. The law by which the Highlanders have been obliged to change the form of their drefs, has, in all the places that we have vifited, been univerfally obeyed. I have feen only one gentleman completely cloth- ed in the ancient habit, and by him it was worn only occafionally and wantonly. The common people do not think themfelves under any legal neceffity of having coats 5 for they fay that the law againft plaids was made by Lord Hardwicke, and was in force only for his life : but the fame poverty that made it then difficult for them to change their clothing, hinders them now from changing it again*

The fillibeg, or lower garment, is fllll

Very common, and the bonnet almoft tmi«

I terfalj

ii4 A JOURNEY TO THE

verfal ; but their attire is fuch as produces, in a fufficient degree, the effed intended by the law, of abolifliing the diffimilitude of appearance between the Highlanders and the other inhabitants of Britain ; and, if drefs be fuppofed to have much influ- ence, facilitates their coalition with their fellow-fubje£ts.

What we have long ufed we naturally like, and therefore the Highlanders were Unwilling to lay afide their plaid, which yet to an unprejudiced fpeclator muft appear an incommodious and cumberfome drefs; for, hanging loofe upon the body, it muft flutter in a quick motion, or require one of the hands to keep it clofe. The Romans always laid a fide the gown when they had any thing to do. It was a drefs fo unfuit- able to war, that the fame word which fig- nified a gown fignified peace. The chief ufe of a plaid feems to be this, that they could commudioufly wrap themfelves in it,

when

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. ii$

when they were obliged to fleep without a better cover.

In our paflage from Scotland to Sky, we were wet for the firft time with a fhower. This was the beginning of the Highland winter, after which we were told that a fucceffion of three dry days was not to be expedted for many months. The winter of the Hebrides confifts of little more than rain and wind. As they are furrounded by an ocean never frozen, the blafts that come to them over the water are too much foftened to have the power of congelation* The fait loughs, or inlets of the fea, which {hoot very far into the ifland, never have any ice upon them, and the pools of frefh water will never bear the walker. The fnow that fometimes falls, is foon diflblved by the air, or the rain*

This is not the defcription of a cruel cli- mate, yet the dark months are here a time I 2 of

n6 A JOURNEY TO THE

of great diftrefs ; becaufe the fummer car* do little more than feed itfelf, and winter comes with its cold and its fcarcity upon families very flenderly provided*

CORIATACHAN IN SKY.

The third or fourth day after our arrival at Armtdel) brought us an invitation to the ifle of Raajay^ which lies eaft of Sky, It is incredible how foon the account of any event is propagated in thefe narrow coun- tries by the love of talk, which much lei- fure produces, and the relief given to the mind in the penury of infular converfation by a new topick. The arrival of Grangers at a place fo rarely vifited, excites rumour* and quickens curiofity. I know not whe- ther we touched at any corner, where Fame had not already prepared us a reception.

To gain a commodious paffage to Raafay, it was neceflary to pafs over a large part of

Sty

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 117

Sky. We were furniflied therefore with horfes and a guide. In the iflands there are no roads, nor any marks by which a ftranger may find his way. The horfeman has always at his fide a native of the place, who, by purfuing game, or tending cattle, or being often employed in meffages or conduct, has learned where the ridge of the hill has breadth fufficient to allow a horfe and his rider a paiTage, and where the mofs or bog is hard enough to bear them. The bogs are avoided as toilfome at leaft, if not unfafe, and therefore the journey is made generally from precipice to precipice; from which if the eye ventures to look down, it fees below a gloomy cavity, whence the rum of water is fometimes heard.

But there fecms to be in all this more alarm than danger. The Highlander walks carefully before, and the horfe, accuftomed to the ground, follows him with little de- viation. Sometimes the hill is too fteep for I 3 the

n8 A JOURNEY TO THE

the horfeman to keep his feat, and fome- times the mofs is too tremulous to bear the double weight of horfe and man. The rider then difmounts, and all fliift as they can.

Journies made in this manner are rather tedious than long. A very few miles re- quire feveral hours. From Armidel we came at night to Coriatachan> a houfe very pleafantly fituated between two brooks, with one of the higheft hills of the ifland behind it. It is the refidence of Mr. Mac- kinnon, by whom we were treated with very liberal hofpitality, among a more numerous and elegant company than it could have been fuppofed eafy to collect.

The hill behind the houfe we did not climb. The weather was rough, and the height and fteepnefs difcouraged'us. We were told that there is a cairne upon it. A is a heap of ftones thrown upon the

grave

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 119

grave of one eminent for dignity of birth, or fplendour of atchievements. It is faid mat by digging, an urn is always found under thefe cairnes : tbey muft therefore have been thus piled by a people whofe cuftom was to burn the dead. To pile ftones is, I believe, a northern cuftom, and to burn the body was the Roman practice ; nor do I know when it was that thefe two ads of fepulture were united.

The weather was next day too violent for the continuation of our journey; but we had no reafon to complain of the inter- ruption. We faw in every place, what we chiefly defired to know, the manners of the people. We had company, and, if we had chofen retirement, we might have had books.

I never was in any houfe of the Iflands, where I"* did not find books in more lan- guages than one, if I ftaid long enough to want them, except one from which the I 4 family

120 A JOURNEY TO THE

family was remoyed. Literature is np| neglected by the higher rank of the He* bridians.

It need not, I fuppofe, be mentioned, that in countries fo little frequented as the Iflands, there are no houfes where travel- lers are entertained for money. He that wanders about thefe wilds, either procures recommendations to thofe whofe habita- tions lie near his way, or, when night and wearinefs come upon him, takes the chance pf general hofpitality. If he finds only 3, cottage^ he can pfpecT: little more than fhelter ; for the cottagers have little more for themfelves : but if his good fortune brings him to the refidence of a gentleman, he will be glad of a ftorm to prolong his ftay. There is, however, one inn by the fea-fide at Sconfor, in Sky, where the poft- office is kept.

At the tables where a ftranger is received, aeither plenty nor delicacy is wanting. A

tract

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 121

traft of land fo thinly inhabited, mud have much wild-fowl ; and I fcarcely remember to have feen a dinner without them. The nipor-game is every where to be had. That the fea abounds with fifh, needs not be told, for it fupplies a great part of Europe. The iile of Sky has flags and roebucks, but no hares. They fell very numerous droves of oxen yearly to England, and therefore cannot be fuppofed to want beef at home. Sheep and goats are in great numbers, and they have the common do«- meflick fowls.

/

But as here is nothing to be bought, every family muft kill its own meat, and roaft part of it fomewhat fooner than Api- cius would prefcribe. Every kind of flefh is undoubtedly excelled by the variety and Emulation of Englifh markets ; but that which is not beft may be yet very free from l, and he that flull complain of his fare

in

ia2 A JOUR1STEY TO THE

in the Hebrides, has improved his delicacy more than his manhood*

Their fowls are not like thofe plumped for fale by the poulterers of London, but they are as good as other places commonly afford, except that the geefe, by feeding in the fea, have univerfally a fifhy ranknefs.

Thefe geefe feem to be of a middle race, between the wild and domeftick kinds. They are fo tame as to own a home, and fo wild as fometimes to fly quite away.

Their native bread is made of oats, or barley. Of oatmeal they fpread very thin cakes, coarfe and hard, to which unac- cuftomed palates are not eafily reconciled. The barley cakes are thicker and fofter ; I began to eat them without unwillingnefs ; the blacknefs of their colour raifes fome diflike, but the tafte is not difagreeable.

In

WESTERN ISLANDS, See. 1:3

In moft houfes there is wheat flower, with which we were fure to be treated, if we ftaid long enough to have it kneaded and baked. As neither yeaft nor leaven are ufed among them, their bread of every kind is unfermented. They make only cakes, and never mould a loaf.

A man of the Hebrides, for of the wo- men's diet I can give no account, as foon as he appears in the morning, fwallows a ghfs of whifky ; yet they are not a drunken race, at leaft I never was prefent at much intemperance ; but no man is fo ahftemious as to refufe the morning dram, which they call &Jkalk<

The word wkifky fignifies water, and is applied by way of eminence to ftrong •water ) or diftilled liquor. The fpirit druak in the North is drav;n from barley. 1 never tafted it, except once for experiment at the inn in In-wary^ when 1 thought it - •-

ic fable

A JOURNEY TO THE

ferable to any Englifo malt brandy. It was ftrong, but not pungent, and was free from the empyreumatic tafte or fmell. What was the procefs I had no opportunity of inquiring, nor do I wifh to improve the art of making poifon pleafant.

Not long after the dram, may be ex- pe&ed the breakfaft, a meal in which the Scots, whether of the lowlands or moun- tains, muft be confefled to excel us. The tea and coffee are accompanied not only with butter, but with honey, conferves, and marmalades. If an epicure could re- move by a wifh, in queft of fenfual grati- fications, wherever he had fupped he would breakfaft in Scotland.

In the iflands, however, they do what I found it not very eafy to endure. They pollute the tea-table by plates piled with large dices of Chefhire cheefe, which mingles its lefs grateful odours with the

fragrance of the tea.

Where

WESTERN ISLANDS, &t. 125

Where many queftions are to be afkedj fome will be omitted. I forgot to enquire how they were fupplied with fo much ex- otic luxury. Perhaps the French may bring them wine for wool, and the Dutch give them tea and coffee at the riming fea- fon, in exchange for frefh provifion. Their trade is unconftrained ; they pay no cuftoms j for there is no officer to de- mand them ; whatever therefore is made dear only by impoft, is obtained here at an eafy rate.

A dinner in the Weftern Iflands differs very little from a dinner in England, ex- cept that in the place of tarts, there are always fet different preparations of milk. This part of their diet will admit fome improvement. Though they have milk, and eggs, and fugar, few of them know how to compound them in a cuitard. Their gardens afford them no great variety, but they have always fome vegetables on the

table,

126 A JOURNEY TO THfi

table. Potatoes at leaft are never wanting which, though they have not known them long, are now one of the principal parts of their food. They are not of the mealy, but the vifcous kind.

Their more elaborate cookery, or made dimes, ail Englifhman, at the firft tafte is not likely to approve, but the culinary com- pofitions of every country are often fuch as become grateful to other nations only by degrees ; though I have read a French author, who, in the elation of his heart, fays, that French cookery pleafes all foreigners, but foreign cookery never fa- tisfies a Frenchman.

Their fuppers are, like their dinners, Various and plentiful. The table is always covered with elegant linen. Their plates for common ufe are often of that kind of manufacture which is called cream co- loured, or queen's ware. They ufe filver 4 on

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 127

on- all occafions where it is common in England, nor did I ever find the fpoon of horn, but in one houfe.

The knives are not often either very bright, or very {harp. They are indeed inftruments of which the Highlanders have not been long acquainted with the general life. They were not regularly laid on the table, before the prohibition of arms, and the change of drefs. Thirty years ago the Highlander wore his knife as a com- panion to his dirk or dagger, and when the company fat down to meat, the men who had knives, cut the flefh into fmall pieces for the women, who with their fingers conveyed it to their mouths.

There was perhaps never any change of national manners fo quick, fo great, and fo general, as that which has operated in the Highlands, by the laft conqueft, and the fubfequent laws, We came thither

too

xftft A JOURNEY TO THE

too late to fee what we expected, a people of peculiar appearance, and a fyftem of antiquated life. The clans retain little now of their original character, their fe- rocity of temper is foftened, their military ardour is extinguifhed, their dignity of in- dependence is deprefled, their contempt of government fubdued, and their reverence for their chiefs abated. Of what they had before the late conqueft of their country, there remain only their language and their poverty. Their language is attacked on dvery fide. Schools are erected, in which fenglijh only is taught, and there were lately fome who thought it reafonable to f efufe them a verfiori of the holy fcripturesj that they might have no monument of their mother- tongue*

That their poverty 5§ gradually abated, dannot be mentioned among the unpleafing confequences of fubje&ion* They are now acquainted with money, and the poffibility

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 129

of gain will by degrees make them induf- trious. Such is the effed of the late regu- lations, that a longer journey than to the Highlands muft be taken by him whofe curiofity pants for favage virtues and bar- barous grandeur*

R A A S A Y.

At the firft intermiflion of the ftormy weathef we were informed, that the boat, which was to convey us to Raafay, attended us on the coaft. We had from this time our intelligence facilitated, and our coaver- fation enlarged, by the company of Mr. Macqueen, minifter of a parirfi in Sky9 whofe knowledge and politenefs give hint a title equally to kindnefs and refpedi, and who, from this time, never forfook us till we were preparing to leave Sky, and the adjacent places.

The boat was under the direction of Mr. Malcolm Macho d, a gentleman of Ra- ft, afay.

ijo A JOURNEY TO THE

afay. The water was calm, and the rowers were vigorous ; fo that our paflage was quick and pleafant. When we came near the ifland, we faw the laird's houfe, a neat modern fabrick, and found Mr. Macleod* the proprietor of the Ifland, with many gentlemen, expe&ing us on the beach. We had, as at all other places, fome difficulty in landing. The crags were irregularly broken, and a falfe flep would have been very mifchievous.

It feemed that the rocks might, with no great labour, have been hewn almoft into a regular flight of fteps ; and as there are no other landing places, I confidered this rugged afcent as the confequence of a form of life inured to hardfhips, and therefore not fludious of nice accommodations. But I know not whether, for many ages, it was -not confidered as a part of military po- licy, to keep the country not eafily accef- fible. The rocks are natural fortifica- tions,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 131

tions, and an enemy climbing with diffi- culty, was eafily deftroyed by thofe who flood high above him.

Our reception exceeded our expectations. We found nothing but civility, elegance, and plenty. After the ufual refrefhments, and the ufual converfation, the evening came upon us. The carpet was then rolled off the floor; the mufician was called, and the whole company was invited to dance, nor did ever fairies trip with greater ala- crity. The general air of feftivity, which predominated in this place, fo far remote from all thofe regions which the mind has been ufed to contemplate as the manfions of pleafure, ftruck the imagination with a delightful furprife, analogous to that which is felt at an unexpected emerfioa from dark- nefs into light.

When it was time to fup, the dance

ceafed3 and fix and thirty perfons fat down

K 2 to

132 A JOURNEY TO THE

to two tables in the fame room. After fup- per the ladies fung Erfe fongs, to which I liftened as an EngUJh audience to an Italian opera, delighted with the founds of words which I did not underftand.

I inquired the fubjeds of the fongs, and was told of one, that it was a love fong, and of another, that it was a farewell com- pofed by one of the Iflanders that was go- ing, in this epidemical fury of emigration, to feek his fortune in America. What fentiments would rife, on fuch an occafion, in the heart of one who had not been taught to lament by precedent, I fhould gladly have known ; but the lady, by whom I fat, thought herfelf not equal to the work of tranflating.

Mr. Macleod is the proprietor of the iflands of Raafay, Rona, and Fladda> and pofleffes an extenfive diftricl: in Sky. The eftate has not, during four hundred years,

gained

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 133

gained or loft a fmgle acre. He acknow- ledges Machod of Dunvegan as his chief, though his anceftors have formerly difputed the pre-eminence.

One of the old Highland alliances has continued for two hundred years, and is fiill fubfifting between Macleod of Raafay and Macdonald of Sky, in confequence of which, the furvivor always inherits the arms of the deceafed ; a natural memorial of military friendfhip. At the death of the late Sir James Macdonald^ his fword was delivered to the prefent laird of Raafay.

The family of Raafay confifts of the laird, the lady, three fons, and ten daughters. For the fons there is a tutor in the houfe, and the lady is faid to be very fkilful and dili- gent in the education of her girls. More gentlenefs of manners, or a more pleafing appearance of domeftick fociety, is not fpuud in the moft poliihed countries,

K 3 Raafay

134 A JOURNEY TO THE

Raafay is the only inhabited ifland in Mr. Macleod\ poffeflion. Rona and Fladda afford only pafture for cattle, of which one hundred and fixty winter in Rona> under the fuperintendence of a folitary herdfman.

The length of Raafay is, by computa- tion, fifteen miles, and the breadth two? Thefe countries have never been meafured, and the computation by miles is negligent and arbitrary. We obferved in travelling, that the nominal and real diftance of places had very little relation to each other, Ra- afay probably contains near a hundred fquare miles. It affords not much ground, notwithstanding its extent, either for tillage, or pafture ; for it is rough, rocky, and barren. The cattle often perifh by falling from the precipices. It is like the other iflands, I think, generally naked of fhade, but it is naked by neglecl: ; for the laird has an orchard, and very large foreft trees grow about his houfe. Like other hilly

countries

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 135

countries it has many rivulets. One of the brooks turns a corn-mill, and at leaft one produces trouts.

In the ftreams or frem lakes of the iflands* I have never heard of any other fifh than trouts and eels. The trouts, which I have feen, are not large -, the colour of their fleih is tinged as in England. Of their eels I can give no account, having never tafted them ; for I believe they are not confidered as wholefome food.

It is not very eafy to fix the principles upon which mankind have agreed to eat fome animals, and rejecl: others; and as the principle is not evident, it is not uni- form. That which is fele&ed as delicate in one country, is by its neighbours abhor- red as loathfome. The Neapolitans lately refufed to eat potatoes in a famine. An Englifhman is not eafily perfuaded to dine on fnails with an Italian, on frogs with a K 4 Freachman,

136 A JOURNEY TO THE

Frenchman, or on horfe flefli with a Tar- tar. The vulgar inhabitants of Sky, I know not whether of the other iflands, have not only eels, but pork and bacon in abhorrence, and accordingly I never faw a hog in the Hebrides, except one at Dun-

Raafoy has wild fowl in abundance, but neither deer, hares, nor rabbits. Why it has them not, might be afked, but that of fuch queftions there is no end. Why does any nation want what it might have ? Why are not fpices tranfplanted to Ame- rica ? Why does tea continue to be brought from China ? Life improves but by flow degrees, and much in every place is yet to <lo. Attempts have been made to raife roebucks in Rao/ay^ but without effect. The young ones it is extremely difficult to rear, and the old can very feldom be taken alive.

Hares

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 137

Hares and rabbits might be more eafily obtained. That they have few or none of either in Sky, they impute to the ravage of the foxes, and have therefore fet, for fome years paft, a price upon their heads, which, as the number was dimi- nifhed, has been gradually raifed, from three fhillings and fixpence to a guinea, a fum fo great in this part of the world, that, in a fhort time, Sky may be as free from foxes, as England from wolves. The fund for thefe rewards is a tax of fixpence in the pound, impofed by the farmers on themfelves, and faid to be paid with great willingnefs.

The beafts of prey in the Iflands are foxes, otters, and weafels. The foxes are bigger than thofe of England ; but the otters exceed ours in a far greater propor- tion. I faw one at sir mi del, of a fize much beyond that which I fuppofed them ever to attain ; and Mr. Maclean ^ the heir

of

A JOURNEY TO THE

of Col, a man of middle ftature, informed me that he once fhot an otter, of which the tail reached the ground, when he held up the head to a level with his own, I ex- peeled the otter to have a foot particularly formed for the art of fwimming; but upon examination,! did not find it differing much from that of a fpaniel. As he preys in the fea, he does little vifible mifchief, and is killed only for his fur. White otters are fometimes feen.

In 'R.aafay they might have hares and rabbits, for they have no foxes. Some de- predations, fuch as were never made be- fore, have caufed a fufpicion that a fox has been lately landed in the ifland by fpite or wantonnefs. This imaginary ftranger has never yet been feen, and therefore, per- haps, the mifchief was done by fome other animal. It is not likely that a creature fo ungentle, whofe head could have been fold in Sky for a guinea, fliould be kept alive 9 only

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 139

only to gratify the malice of fending him. to prey upon a neighbour : and the paflage from Sky is wider than a fox would ven- ture to fwim, unlefs he were chafed by dogs into the fea, and perhaps then his flrength would enable him to crofs. How beafts of prey came into any iflands is not eafy to guefs. In cold countries they take advantage of hard winters, and travel over the ice: but this is a very fcanty folution ; for they are found where they have no dif- coverable means of coming.

The corn of this ifland is but little. I faw the harveft of a fmall field. The wo- men reaped the corn, and the men bound up the fheaves. The ftrokes of the fickle were timed by the modulation of the har- veft fong, in which all their voices were united. They accompany in the Highlands every action, which can be done in equal time, with an appropriated ftrain, which has, they fay, not much meaning ; but

its

I4o A JOURNEY TO THE

its effe&s are regularity and cheerfulnefs. The ancient proceleufmatick fong, by which the rowers of gallies were animated, may be fuppofed to have been of this kind. There is now an oar-Jong ufed by the Hebridiam,

The ground of Raafay feems fitter for cattle than for corn, and of black cattle I fuppofe the number is very great. The Laird himfelf keeps a herd of four hundred, one hundred of which are annually fold. Of an extenfive domain, which he holds in his own hands, he confiders the fale of cattle as repaying him the rent, and fup- ports the plenty of a very liberal table with the remaining product,

Raafay is fuppofed to have been very long inhabited. On one fide of it they fhow caves, into which the rude nations of the firft ages retreated from the weather. Thefe dreary vaults might have had other ufes.

There

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 141

There is ftill a cavity near the houfe called the oar-cave, in which the feamen, after one of thofe piratical expeditions, which in rougher times was very frequent, ufed, as tradition tells, to hide their oars. This hollow was near the fea, that nothing fo neceffary might be far to be fetched; and it was fecret, that enemies, if they landed, could find nothing. Yet it is not very evi- dent of what ufe it was to hide their oars from thofe, who, if they were matters of the coaft, could take away their boats.

A proof much ftronger of the diflance at which the firft poffeffors of this ifland lived from the prefent time, is afforded by the ftone heads of arrows which are very frequently picked up. The people call them Elf-bolts^ and believe that the fairies fhoot them at the cattle. They nearly refemble thofe which Mr. 'Banks has lately brought from the favage countries in the Pacifick Ocean,

and

142 A JOURNEY TO THE

and muft have been made by a nation to which the ufe of metals was unknown.

The number of this little community has never been counted by its ruler, nor have I obtained any pofitive account, confiftent •with ,the refult of political computation* Not many years ago, the late Laird led out one hundred men upon a military expedi- tion. The fixth part of a people is fup- pofed capable of bearing arms : Raafay had therefore fix hundred inhabitants. But be- caufe it is not likely, that every man able to ferve in the field would follow the fummons, or that the chief would leave his lands totally defencelefs, or take away all the hands qualified for labour, let it be fuppofed, that half as many might be permitted to flay at home. The whole number will then be nine hundred, or nine to a fquare mile; a degree of populoufnefs greater than thofe tracts of defolation can

often

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 143

often {how. They are content with their country, and faithful to their chiefs, and yet uninfeded with the fever of migration.

Near the houfe at Raafay^ is a chapel unroofed and ruinous, which has long been, ufed only as a place of burial. About the churches, in the iflands, are fmall fquares inclofed with ftone, which belong to par- ticular families, as repofitories for the dead. At Raafay there is one, I think, for the proprietor, and one for fome collateral houfe.

It is told by Martin^ that at the death of the Lady of the Ifland, it has been here the cuftom to erecT: a crofs. This we found not to be true. The ftones that iland about the chapel at a fmall diftance, fome of which perhaps have crofles cut upon them, are believed to have been not funeral mo- numents, but the ancient boundaries of the fan&uary or confecrated ground.

Martin

A JOURNEY TO THE

Martin was a man not illiterate : he was an inhabitant of Sky9 and therefore was within reach of intelligence, and with no great difficulty might have vifited the places •which he undertakes to defcribe; yet with all his opportunities, he has often fuffered himfelf to be deceived. He lived in the laft century, when the chiefs of the clans had loft little of their original influence. The mountains were yet unpenetrated, no inlet was opened to foreign novelties, and the feudal inftitutions operated upon life with their full force. He might therefore have difplayed a feries of fubordination and a form of government, which, in more lu- minous and improved regions, have been long forgotten, and have delighted his readers with many uncouth cuftoms that are now difufed, and wild opinions that prevail no longer. But he probably had not knowledge of the world fufficient to qualify him for judging what would de- ferve or gain the attention of mankind.

The

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 145

The mode of life which was familiar to himfelf, he did not fuppofe unknown to others, nor imagined that he could give pleafure by telling that of which it was, in his little country, impofiible to be ignorant*

What he has negle&ed cannot now be performed. In nations, where there is hardly the ufe of letters, what is once out of fight is loft for ever. They think but little, and of their few thoughts, none are wafted on the paft, in which they are nei- ther interefted by fear nor hope. Their only regifters are ftated obfervances and practical reprefentations. For this reafou an age of ignorance is an age of ceremony. Pageants, and proceffions, and commemo- rations, gradually fhrink away, as better methods come into ufe of recording events, and prefer ving rights.

It is not only in Raafay that the chapel

is unroofed and ufelefs ; through the few

L

J46 A JOURNEY TO THE

iflands which we vifited, we neither faw nor heard of any houfe of prayer, except in Sky, that was not in ruins. The malig- nant influence of Cahinifm has blafted ceremony and decency together j and if the remembrance of papal fuperftition is obliterated, the monuments of papal piety are likewife effaced.

It has been, for many years, popular to talk of the lazy devotion of the Romifli clergy ; over the fleepy lazinefs of men that erected churches, we may indulge our fuperiority with a new triumph, by com- paring it with the fervid adivity of thofe who fuffer them to fall.

Of the deftruftion of churches, the decay of religion muft in time be the confe* quence ; for while the public ads of the miniftry are now performed in houfes, a very fmall number can be prefent ; and as the greater part of the Inlanders make no ufe

of

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 147

of bdbks, all muft neceffarily live in total ignorance who want the opportunity of vocal inftru&ion.

From thefe remains of ancient which are every where to be found, it has been conjedlured, that, for the laft two cen- turies, the inhabitants of the Iflands have decreafed in number. This argument, which fuppofes that the churches have been fuffered to fall, only becaufe they were no longer neceflary, would have fome force, if the houfes of worfhip ftill remaining were fufEcient for the people. But fince they have now no churches at all> thefe venerable fragments do not prove the peo- ple of former times to have been more nu- merous, but to have been more devout. If the inhabitants were doubled with their prefent principles, it appears not that any provifion for publick worfhip would be made. Where the religion of a country enforces confecrated buildings, the number L z of

i48 A JOURNEY TO THE

of thofe buildings may be fuppofed to afford fome indication, however uncertain, of the populoufnefs of the place ; but where by a change of manners a nation is contented to live without them, their decay implies no diminution of inhabitants.

Some of thefe dilapidations are faid to be found in iflands now uninhabited ; but I doubt whether we can thence infer that they were ever peopled. The religion of the middle age is well known to have placed too much hope in lonely aufterities. Voluntary folitude was the great art of pro- pitiation, by which crimes were effaced, and confcience was appeafed ; it is there- fore not unlikely, that oratories were often built in places where retirement was fure to have no diftarbance.

Raafay has little that can detain a tra- veller, except the Laird and his family ; but their power wants no auxiliaries*

Such

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.

Such a feat of hofpitality, amidft the winds and waters, fills the imagination with a delightful contrariety of images. Without is the rough ocean and the rocky land, the beating billows and the howling ftorm : within is plenty and elegance, beauty and gaiety, the fong and the dance. In Raafay^ if I could have found an Ulyfies, I had fancied a Phaacia.

DUNVEGAN.

At Raafay^ by good fortune, Macleod^ fo the chief of the clan is called, was paying a vifit, and by him we were invited to his feat at Dunvegan. Raafay has a ftout boat, built in Norway, in which, with fix oars, he conveyed us back to Sky. We landed at Port Re^ fo called, becaufe James the Fifth of Scotland^ who had curiofity to vifit the Iflands, came into it. The port is made by an inlet of the fea, deep and narrow, L 3 where

150 A JOURNEY TO THE

where a fhip lay waiting to difpeople Sky, by carrying the natives away to America.

In coafting Sky, we pafled by the cavern in which it was the cuftom, as Martin relates, to catch birds in the night, by making a fire at the entrance. This practice is dif- ufed ; for the birds, as is known often to happen, have changed their haunts.

Here we dined at a publick houfe, I be- lieve the only inn pf the ifland, and having mounted our horfes, travelled in the man- ner already defcribed, till we came to Kingf- borough, a place diftinguifhed by that name, becaufe the King lodged here when he landed at Port Re. We were entertained with the ufual hofpitality by Mr. Macdonald and his lady Flora Macdonald, a name that 'Will be mentioned in hiftory, and if cou- rage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour. She is a woman of middle ftature,

foft

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 151

foft features, gentle manners, and elegant prefence.

In the morning we fent our horfes round a promontory to meet us, and fpared our- felves part of the day's fatigue, by croffing an arm of the fea. We had at laft fome difficulty in coming to Dimvegan*, for our way led over an extenfive moor, where every ftep was to be taken with caution, and we were often obliged to alight, be- caufe the ground could not be trufted. la travelling this watery flat, I perceived that it had a vifible declivity, and might with- out much expence or difficulty be drained. But difficulty and expence are relative terms, which have different meanings ia different places.

To Dunvegan we came, very willing to be at reft, and found our fatigue amply recompenfed by our reception. Lady Mac- who had lived many years in England, L 4 was

152 A JOURNEY TO THE

was newly come hither with her fon and four daughters, who knew all the arts of fouthern elegance, and all the modes of Englifh economy. Here therefore we fet- tled, and did not fpoil the prefent hour with thoughts of departure,

Dunwgan is a rocky prominence, that juts out into a bay, on the weft fide of Sky. The houfe, which is the principal feat of •Macleod) is partly old and partly modern ; it is built upon the rock, and looks upon the water. It forms two fides of a fmali fquare : on the third fide is the fkeleton of a caftle of unknown antiquity, fuppofed to have been a Norwegian fortrefs, when the Danes were maflers of the Iflands. It is fo nearly entire, that it might have eafily been made habitable, were there not an ominous tradition in the family, that the owner mail not long outlive the reparation. The grandfather of the prefent Laird, in de- fiance of prediction, began the work, but

defifted

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 153

defifted in a little time, and applied his money to worfe ufes.

As the inhabitants of the Hebrides lived, for many ages, in continual expe&ation of hoftilities, the chief of every clan refided in a fortrefs. This houfe was acceflible only from the water, till the laft pofleffor opened an entrance by flairs upon the land.

They had formerly reafon to be afraid, not only of declared wars and authorized invaders, or of roving pirates, which, in the northern feas, muft have been very com- mon; but of inroads and infults from rival clans, who, in the plenitude of feudal inde- pendence, afked no leave of their Sovereign to make war on one another. Sky has been ravaged by a feud between the two mighty powers of Macdmald and Macleod. Macdonald having married a Macleod, upon fome difcontent difmifled her, perhaps be- caufe file had brought him no children.

Before

154 A JOURNEY TO THE

Before the reign of James the Fifth, a High- land Laird made a trial of his wife for a certain time, and if fhe did not pleafe him, he was then at liberty to fend her away. This however muft always have offended, and Macleod refenting the injury, whatever •were its circumftances, declared, that the wedding had been folemnized without a bonfire, but that the feparation fhould be better illuminated ; and raifing a little army, fet fire to the territories of Macdonald* who returned the vifit, and prevailed.

Another fiory may fhow the diforderly ftate of infular neighbourhood. The in- habitants of the Ifle of Egg, meeting a boat manned by Macleods, tied the crew hand and foot, and fet them a- drift. Mac- leod landed upon Egg, arid demanded the offenders ; but the inhabitants refufing to furrender them, retreated to a cavern, into which they thought their enemies unlikely to follow them. Macleod choked them

1 with

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 155

with fmoke, and left them lying dead by families as they flood.

Here the violence of the weather con- fined us for fome time, not at all to our difcontent or inconvenience. We would indeed very willingly have vifited the Iflands, which might be feen from the houfe fcattered in the fea, and I was par- ticularly defirous to have viewed IJ'ay ; but the ftorms did not permit us to launch a boat, and we were condemned to liflen in idlenefs to the wind, except when we were better engaged by liftening to the ladies.

We had here more winds than waves, and fuffered the feverity of a tempeft, with- out enjoying its magnificence. The fea being broken by the multitude of iflands, does not roar with fo much noife, nor beat the ftorm with fuch foamy violence, as I have remarked on the coaft of SuJJex. Though, while I was in the Hebrides, the

wind

i56 A JOURNEY TO THE

wind was extremely turbulent, I never faw very high billows.

The country about Dunvegan is rough and barren. There are no trees, except in the orchard, which is a low flickered fpot furrounded with a wall.

When this houfe was intended to fuftain •a fiege, a well was made in the court, by boring the rock downwards, till water was found, which though fo near to the fea, I have not heard mentioned as brackifh, though it has fome hardnefs, or other quali- ties, which makes it lefs fit for ufe; and the family is now better fupplied from a ftream, which runs by the rock, from two pleafmg water-falls. .

Here we faw fome traces of former manners, and heard fome (landing tradi- tions. In the houfe is kept an ox's horn, hollowed fo as to hold perhaps two quarts,

which

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 157

which the heir of Macleod was expefted to fwallow at one draught, as a teft of his man- hood, before he was permitted to bear arms, or could claim a feat among the men. It is. held that the return of the Laird to Dunve- gan, after any confiderable abfence, produces a plentiful capture of herrings; and that, if any woman croffes the water to the oppofite Ifland, the herrings will defert the coaft. Boetius tells the fame of fome other place. This tradition is not uniform. Some hold that no woman may pafs, and others that none may pafs but a Macleod.

Among other guefts, which the hofpita- lity of Dunwgan brought to the table, a vifit was paid by the Laird and Lady of a fmall ifland fouth of Sky, of which the pro- per name is Muack, which fignifies fwine. It is commonly called Muck> which the pro- prietor not liking, has endeavoured, without effect, to change to Monk. It is ufual to call gentlemen in Scotland by the name of thei;

pofleflions,

158 A JOURNEY TO THE

jtoflfeffions, as Raafay, Bemera, Loch Buy9 a practice necefTary in countries inhabited by clans, where all that live in the fame territory have one name, and muft be therefore difcriminated by fome addition. This gentleman, whofe name, I think, is Maclean^ fhould be regularly called Muck\ but the appellation, which he thinks too coarfe for his Ifland, he would like ftill lefs for himfelf, and he is therefore addrefled by the title of, IJle of Muck.

This little ifland, however it be named* is of considerable value. It is too Eng~ HJh miles long, and three quarters of a mile broad, and confequently contains only nine hundred and fixty Engli/h acres. It is chiefly arable. Half of this little domi- nion the Laird retains in his own hand, and on the other half, live one hundred and fixty perfons, who pay their rent by exported corn. What rent they pay, we were not told, and could not decently in- quire*

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.- 159

quire. The proportion of the people to the land is fuch, as the moft fertile coun- tries do not commonly maintain.

The Laird having all his people under his immediate view, feems to be very atten- tive to their happinefs. The devaftation of the fmall-pox, when it vifits places where it comes feldom, is well known. He has di farmed it of its terrour at Muack, by in- oculating eighty of his people. The ex- pence was two (hillings and fixpence a head. Many trades they cannot have among them, but upon occafion, he fetches a fmith from the Ifle of Egg, and has a tailor from the main land, fix times a year. This Ifland well deferved to be feen, but the Laird's abfence left us no opportunity.

Every inhabited Ifland has its appendant and fubordinate iflets. Mucky however fmall, has yet others fmaller about it, one of which has only ground fufficient to afford jiafture for three wethers,

9 At

i:6o A JOURNEY TO THE

At Dungevan I had tafted lotus, and was in danger of forgetting that I was ever 'to depart, till Mr. Bofwell fagely re- proached me with my fluggifhnefs and foft- nefs. I had no very forcible defence to make ; and we agreed to purfue our jour- ney. Macleod accompanied us to Ulinifii where we were entertained by the {herirT of the Ifland.

U L I N I S H.

Mr, Macqueen travelled with us, and di- reded our attention to all that was worthy of obfervation. With him we went to fee an ancient building, called a dun or bo- rough. It was a circular inclofure, about forty two feet in diameter, walled round with loofe ftones, perhaps to the height of nine feet. The walls are very thick, di- miniihing a little towards the top, and though in thefe countries, ftone is not "brought far, muft have been raifed with much labour. Within the great circle were

feveral

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 161

feveral final ler rounds of wall, which form- ed d,iftin£t apartments. Its date and its tofe are unknown. Some fuppofe it the original feat of the chiefs of the Mackods*

Mr. Macqueen thought it a Dani/h fort.

The entrance is covered with flat ftones, 2nd is narrow, becaufe it was neceflary that the ftones which lie over it, fhould reach from one wall to the other ; yet* Urait as the paftage is, they feem heavier than could have been placed where they how lie, by the naked ftrength of as many men as might ftand about them. They were probably raifed by putting long pieces of wood under them, to which the acYion of a long line of lifters might be applied* Savages, in all countries, have patience proportionate to their unfkilfulnefs, and are content to attain their end by very te- dious methods.

If it was ever roofed, it might once have

been a dwelling, but as there is no provi-

M fioa

162 A JOURNEY TO THE

fion for water, it could not have been 2t fortrefs. In Sky> as in every other place^ there is an ambition of exalting whatever has furvived memory, to fome important ufe, and referring it to very remote ages. I am inclined to fufpedt, that in lawlefs times, when the inhabitants of every moun- tain Hole the cattle of their neighbour, thefe enclofures were ufed to fecure the lierds and flocks in the night. When they were driven within the wall, they might be eafily watched, and defended as long as could be needful 5 for the robbers durft not wait till the injured clan ihould find them in the morning.

The interior enclofures, if the whole building were once a houfe, were the chambers of the chief inhabitants. If it was a place of fecurity for cattle, they were probably the (belters of the keepers.

From the Dun we were conducted to another place of feeurity, a cave carried a

great

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 163

great way under ground, which had been difcovered by digging after a fox. Thefe caves, of which many have been found* and many probably remain concealed, are formed, I believe, commonly by taking ad- vantage of a hollow, where banks or rocks rife on either fide. If no fuch place can be found, the ground muft be cut away* The walls are made by piling ftones againft the earth, on either fide* It is then roofed by large ftones laid acrofs the cavern, which therefore cannot be wide. Over the roof, turfs were placed* and grafs was fuf- fered to grow; and the mouth was con* cealed by bufhes, or fome other cover.

Thefe caves were reprefented to us as the cabins of the firft rude inhabitants, of which, however, I am by no mearis per- fuaded. This was fo low, that no man could ftand upright in it. By their con-* ftrudion they are all fo narrow, that two can never pafs along them together, and M 2 being

164 A JOURNEY TO THE

being fubterraneous, they muft be always damp. They are not the work of an age much ruder than the prefent; for they are formed with as much art as the conftruc- tion of a common hut requires. I imagine them to have been places only of occafional ufe, in which the Iflander, upon a fudden alarm, hid his utenfils, or his clothes, and perhaps fometimes his wife and children.

This cave we entered, but could not pro- ceed the whole length, and went away without knowing how far it was carried. For this omiffion we lhall be blamed, as we perhaps have blamed other travellers ; but the day was rainy, and the ground was damp. We had with us neither fpades nor pickaxes, and if love of eafe furmounted our defire of knowledge, the offence has not the invidioufnefs of fingularity.

Edifices, either {landing or ruined, are the chief records of an illiterate nation. In

fome

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 165

fbme part of this journey, at no great diftance from our way, flood a fhattered fortrefs, of which the learned minifter, to whofe communication we are much in- debted, gave us an account.

Thofe, faid he, are the walls of a place of refuge, built in the time of James the Sixth, by Hugh Macdonald, who was next heir to the dignity and fortune of his chief. Hugh, being fo near his wifh, was im- patient of delay; and had art and influence fufEcient to engage feveral gentlemen in a plot againft the Laird's life. Something muft be ftipulated on both fides ; for they would not dip their hands in blood merely for Hugh's advancement. The compact was formally written, figned by the con- fpirators, and placed in the hands of one Macleod.

It happened that Macleod had fold fome

cattle to a drover, who not having ready

M 3 money,

i66 A JOURNEY TO THE

money, gave him a bond for payment?, The debt was difcharged, and the bond re- demanded; which Macleod, who could not read, intending to put into his hands, gave him the confpiracy. The drover, when he had read the paper, delivered it privately to Macdonald, who being thus informed of his danger, called his friends together, and provided for his fafety. He made a pub- lic feaft, and inviting Hugh Macdonald and his confederates, placed each of them at the table between two men of known fidelity. The eompaft of confpiracy was then (hewn, and every man confronted with his own name. Macdonald a£ted \vith great moderation. He upbraided Hugh, both with difloyalty and ingra- titude ; but told the reft, that he con- fidered them as men deluded and mifin- formed. Hugh was fworn to fidelity, and difmified with his companions; but he was Dot generous enough to be reclaimed by lenity; and finding no longer any counte- nance

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 167

nance among the gentlemen, endeavoured to execute the fame defign by meaner hands. In this pradice he was detected, taken to Macdonald's caftle, and imprifoned in the dungeon. When he was hungry, they let down a plentiful meal of falted meat ; and when, after his repaft, he called for drink, conveyed to him a covered cup, which, when he lifted the lid, he found empty. From that time they vifited him no more, but left him to perifh in folitude and darknefs.

We were then told of a cavern by the fea-fide, remarkable for the powerful re- verberation of founds. After dinner, we took a boat, to explore this curious cavity. The boatmen, who feemed to be of a rank above that of common drudges, inquired who the ftrangers were, and being told we came one from Scotland, and the other from England, afked if the EngUJhman could recount a long genealogy. What M 4 anfwer

i68 A JOURNEY TO THE

anfwer was given them, the converfation being in Erfe, I was not much inclined to examine.

They expedited no good event of the voyage ; for one of them declared that he heard the cry of an Englijh ghoft. This omen I was not told till after our return, and therefore cannot claim the dignity of defpifing it.

The fea was fmooth. We never left the fhore, and came without any difafter to the cavern, which we found rugged and misfhapen, about one hundred and eighty feet long, thirty wide in the broader! part, and in the loftiefr, as we guefled, about thirty high. It was now dry, but at high water the fea rifes in it hear fix feet. Here I faw what I had never feen before, limpets and mufcles in their natural ftate. Put, as a new teftimony to the veracity of

common

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 163

common fame, here was no echo to be heard.

We then walked through a natural arch in the rock, which might have pleafed us by its novelty, had the ftones, which en- cumbered our feet, given us leifure to con- fider it. We were fhown the gummy feed of the kelp, that fattens itfelf to a ftone, from, which it grows into a ftrong ftalk.

In our return, we found a little boy upon the point of a rock, catching with his angle, a fupper for the family. We rowed up to him, and borrowed his rod, with which Mr. Bojwell caught a cuddy.

The cuddy is a fifh of which I know not the philofophical name. It is not much bigger than a gudgeon, but is of great ufe in thefe Iflands, as it affords the lower people both food, and 'oil for their lamps, poddies are fo abundant, at fome times of

the

,7o A JOURNEY TO THE

the year, that they are caught like white-* bait in the Thames, only by dipping a bafcet and drawing it back,

If it were always practicable to fifh, thefe Iflands could never be in much dan-* ger from famine; but unhappily in the winter, when other provifion fails, the feas are commonly too rough for nets, or boats.

TALISKER IN SKY.

From Ulinijh) our next ftage was to Ta- lljker^ the houfe of Colonel Macleod> an officer in the Dutch fervice, who in this time of univerfal peace, has for feveral years been permitted to be abfent from his regi- ment. Having been bred to phyfick, he is confequently a icholar, and his lady, by accompanying him in his different places of refidence, is become flcilful in feveral languages, lalijker is the place beyond all that I have feen, from which the gay and the 4 jovial

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 171

jovial feem utterly excluded; and where the hermit might expert to grow old in medi- tation, without poffibiltty of difturbance or interruption. It is fituated very near the fea, but upon a coaft where no veflel lands but when it is driven by a tempeft on the rocks. Towards the land are lofty hills ftreaming with water-falls. The gar- den is fheltered by firs, or pines, which grow there fo profperoufly, that fome, which the prefent inhabitant planted, are very high and thick.

At this place we very happily met Mr. Donald Maclean, a young gentleman, the eldefl fon of the Laird of Col, heir to a very great extent of land, and fo defirous of improving his inheritance, that he fpent a confiderable time among the farmers of Hertford/hire, and Hampjhire, to learn their practice. He worked with his own hands at the principal operations of agri- that he might not deceive himfelf

by

172 A JOURNEY TO THE

by a falfe opinion of fkill, which if he fhould find it deficient at home, he had no means of completing. If the world has agreed to praife the travels and manual labours to the Czar of Mufcovy, let Col have his fhare of the like applaufe, in the proportion of his dominion^ to the empire of Ruffia.

This young gentleman was fporting ir$ the mountains of Sky, and when he was weary with following his game, repaire4 for lodging to T^HJker. At night he miffed one of his dogs, and when he went to feek him in the morning, found two eagles feeding on his carcafs.

Col, for he muft be named by his pof- feffions, hearing that our intention was tq vifit Jona* offered to condud us to his chief, Sir Allan Maclean* who lived in the ifle of Inch Kenneth, and would readily find us a convenient paflage. From this

time

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.

time was formed an acquaintance, which being begun by kindnefs, was accidentally continued by conftraint ; we derived much pleafure from it, and I hope have given him no reafon to repent it.

The weather was now almofl one con- tinued ftorm, and we were to fnatch fome happy intermhTion to be conveyed to M#/7, the third Ifland of the Hebrides, lying about a degree fouth of Sky> whence we might eafily find our way to Inch Kenneth, where Sir Allan Maclean refided, and after* ward to Jona.

For this purpofe, the moft commodious ftation that we could take was Armidel^ which Sir Alexander Macdonald had now left to a gentleman, who lived there as his factor or fteward.

In our way to Armidel> was Coriatachau, where we had already been, and to which therefore we were very willing to return*

We

174 A JOURNEY TO THE

We (laid however fo long at Talifeer, that a great part of our journey was performed in the gloorn of the evening. In travelling even thus almoft without light thro* naked folitude, when there is a guide whofe con- duit may be trufted, a mind not naturally too much difpofed to fear, may preferve fome degree of cheerfulnefs ; but what muft be the folicitude of him who fhould be wandering, among the craggs and hol- lows,'benighted, ignorant, and alone?

The fidions of the Gothick romances were not fo remote from credibility as they are now thought. In the full prevalence of the feudal inftitution, when violence defo- lated the world, and every baron lived in a fortrefs, forefts and caftles were regularly fucceeded by each other, and the adventurer might very fuddenly pafs from the gloom of woods, or the ruggednefs of moors, to feats of plenty, gaiety, and magnifi- cence. Whatever is imaged in the wildeft

tale,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 175

tale, if giants, dragons, and enchant- ment be excepted, would be felt by him* who, wandering in the mountains with- out a guide, or upon the fea without a pi- lot, fhould be carried amidft his terrour and uncertainty, to the hofpitality and elegance of Raafay and Dunvegan.

To Coriatachan at laft we came, and found ourfelves welcomed as before. Here we ftaid two days, and made fuch in- quiries as curiofity fuggefted. The houfe was filled with company, among whom Mr* Macpbcrfon and his fifter diftinguifhed themfelves by their politenefs and accom- pliihments. By him we were invited to Oftig, a houfe not far from Armidel* where we might eafily hear of a boat, when the weather would fuffer us to leave the Ifland.

OS TIG IN SKY. At OJltg, of Which Mn Macpherfon ig minifter, we were entertained for fome days,

then

176 A JOURNEY TO THE

then removed to Armidel, where we finimecl our obfervations on the ifland of Sky.

As this ifland lies in the fifty-feventh degree, the air cannot be fuppofed to have much warmth. The long continuance of the fun above the horizon, does indeed fometimes produce great heat in northerri latitudes; but this ean only happen in fhel- tered places, where the atmofphere is to a certain degree ftagnant, and the fame mafs of air continues to receive for many hours the rays of the fun, and the vapours of the earth. 'Sky lies open on the weft and north to a vaft extent of ocean, and is cooled in the fumrner by a perpetual ventilation, but by the fame blafts is kept warm in! winter. Their weather is not pleafmg. Half the year is deluged with rain. Frorri the autumnal to the vernal equinox, a dry day is hardly known, except when the fhowers are fufpended by a tempeft. ^Under fuch flues can be expeded no great exu- berance

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 177

berance of vegetation. Their winter over- takes their fummer, and their harvefl lies upon the ground drenched with rain. The autumn ftruggles hard to produce fome of our early fruits. I gathered goofeberries in September ; but they were fmall, and the huik was thick.

Their winter is feldom fuch as puts a full ftop to the growth of plants, or reduces the cattle to live wholly on the furplufage of the fummer. In the year Seventy- one they had a fevere feafon, remembered by the name of the Black Spring, from which, the ifland has not yet recovered. The fnow lay long upon the ground, a calamity hardly known before. Part of their cattle died for want, part were unfeafonably fold to buy fuflenance for the owners ; and, what I have not read or heard of before, the kine that furvived were fo emaciated and difpirited, that they did not require N the

A JOURNEY TO THE

the male at the ufual time. Many of the roebucks perilhed.

The foil, as in other countries, has its diverfities. In fome parts there is only a thin layer of earth fpread upon a rock, which bears nothing but fhort brown heath, and perhaps is not generally capable of any better product. There are many bogs or moffes of greater or lefs extent, where the foil cannot be fuppofed to want depth, though it is too wet for the plough. But we did not obferve in thefe any aquatick plants. The vallies and the mountains are alike darkened with heath. Some grafs, how- ever, grows here and there, and fome hap- pier fpots of earth are capable of tillage.

Their agriculture is laborious, and per- haps rather feeble than unfldlful. Their chief manure is fea- weed, which, when they lay it to rot upon the field, gives them a bet- ter crop than thofe of the Highlands, They

heap

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 179

heap fea-fhells upon the dunghill, which in time moulder into a fertilifing fubftance. When they find a vein of earth where they cannot ufe it, they dig it up, and add it to the mould of a more commodious place.

Their corn grounds often lie in fuch in- tricacies among the craggs, that there is no room for the action of a team and plough. 'The foil is then turned up by manual la- bour with an inftrument called a crooked fpade, of a form and weight which to me appeared very incommodious, and would perhaps be foon improved in a country where workmen could be eafily found and eafily paid. It has a narrow blade of iron fixed to a long and heavy piece of wood, which muft have, about a foot and a half above the iron, a knee or flexure with the angle downwards. When the farmer en- counters a (lone which is the great impe- diment of his operations, he drives the blade under it, and bringing the knee or angle to

% the

i8o A JOURNEY TO THE

the ground, has in the long handle a very forcible lever.

According to the different mode of til- lage, farms are diftinguifhed into long land and JJoort land. Long land is that which affords room for a plough, and ihort land is turned up by the fpade.

The grain which they commit to the fur- rows thus tedioufly formed, is either oats or barley. They do not fow barley with- out very copious manure, and then they expecl: from it ten for one, an increafe equal to that of better countries ; but the culture is fo operofe that they content themfelves commonly with oats ; and who can relate without compaffion, that after all their diligence they are to expecl: only a triple increafe ? It is in vain to hope for plenty, when a third part of the harveft muft be referved for feed.

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 181

When their grain is arrived at the ftate which they muft confider as ripenefs, they do not cut, but pull the barley : to the oats they apply the fickle. Wheel car- riages they have none, but make a frame qf timber, which is drawn by one horfe with the two points behind preffing on the ground. On this they fometimes drag home their (heaves, but often convey them fyome in a kind of open panier, or frame of flicks upon the horfe's back.

Of that which is obtained with fo much difficulty, nothing furely ought to be wafted ; yet their method of clearing their oats from the hufk is by parching them in the ftraw. Thus with tjie genuine improvidence of favages, they deftroy that fodder for want of which their cattle may perifli. From this practice they have two petty conveni- encies. They dry the grain fo that it is eafily reduced to meal, and they efcape the theft of the threfher. The tafte go \i traced N 3 from

j82 A JOURNEY TO THE

from the fire by the oats, as by every other fcorched fubftance, life muft long ago have made grateful. The oats that are not parched muft be dried in a kiln.

The barns of Sky I never faw. That which Macleod of Raafay had erected near his houfe was fo contrived, becaufe the har- veft is feldom brought home dry, as by perpetual perflation to prevent the mow from heating.

Of their gardens I can judge only from their tables. I did not obferve that the common greens were wanting, and fuppofe, that by choofing an advantageous expofition, they can raife all the more hardy efculent plants. Of vegetable fragrance or beauty they are not yet ftudious. Few vows are made to Flora in the Hebrides.

They gather a little hay, but the grafs is ipown late; and is fo often almoft dry acd

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 183

again very wet, before it is houfed, that it becomes a collection of withered (talks with- out tafte or fragrance ; it mud be eaten by cattle that have nothing elfe, but by mod farmers would be thrown away.

In the Iflands I have not heard that any fubterraneous treafures have been difco- vered, though where there are mountains, there are commonly minerals. One of the rocks in Col has a black vein, imagined to confift of the ore of lead; but it was never yet opened or eflayed. In Sky a black mafs was accidentally picked up, and brought into the houfe of the owner of the land, •who found himfeif ftrongly inclined to think it a coal, but unhappily it did not burn in the chimney. Common ores would be here of no great value; for what requires to be feparated by fire, muft, if it were found, be carried away in its mineral ftate, here being no fewel for the fmelting houfe or forge. Perhaps by diligent fearch in N 4 thi$

1 84 A JOURNEY TO THE

this world of ftone, fome valuable fpecies of marble might be difcovered. -But nei^ ther philofophical curiofityvnor commercial induftry, have yet fixed their abode here, where the importunity of immediate want fupplied but for the day, and craving on the morrow, has left little room for excur- five knowledge or the pleafmg fancies of diftant profit.

They have lately found a manufa&ure confiderably lucrative. Their rocks abound with kelp, a fea-plant, of which the afhes are melted into glafs. They burn kelp in great quantities, and then fend it away in {hips, which come regularly to purchafe them. This new fource of riches has raifed the rents of many maritime farms; but the tenants pay, like all other tenants, the ad- ditional rent with great unwillingnefs ; be- caufe they confider the profits of the kelp as the mere product of perfonal labour, to which the landlord contributes nothing.

How-

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 185

However, as any man may be faid to give what he gives the power of gaining, he has certainly as much right to profit from the price of kelp as of any thing elfe foun4 or raifed upon his ground.

This new trade has excited a long and eager litigation between Macdonald and Macleod, for a ledge of rocks, which, till the value of kelp was known, neither of them defired the reputation of pofTeffing.

The cattle of Sky are not fo fmall as is commonly believed. Since they have fent their beeves in great numbers to fouthern marts, they have probably taken more care of their breed. At fitted times the annual growth of cattle is driven to a fair, by a ge- neral drover, and with the money, which he returns to the farmer, the rents are paid.

The price regularly expeded, is from, two to three pounds a head : there was once

one

i86 A JOURNEY TO THE

one fold for five pounds. They go from the Iflands very lean, and are not offered to the butcher, till they have been long fatted in Engltfh paftures.

Of their black cattle, forne are without horns, called by the Scots bumble cows, as we call a bee an bumble bee, that wants a fling, Whether this difference be fpeci- fick, or accidental, though we inquired with great diligence, we could not be in- formed. We are not very fure that the bull is ever without horns, though we have been told, that fuch bulls there are. What is produced by putting a horned and unhorned male and female together, no man has ever tried, that thought the refult worthy of obfervation.

Their horfes are, like their cows, of a moderate fize. I had no difficulty to mount myfelf commodioufly by the favour of the gentlemen, I heard of very little

cows

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 187

eows in Barra, and very little horfes in Rum, where perhaps no care is taken to prevent that diminution of fize, which muft always happen, where the greater and the lefs copulate promifcuoufly, and ths young animal is reftrained from growth by pe-> nury of fuftenance.

The goat is the general inhabitant of the earth, complying with every difference of climate, and of foil. The goats of the He- brides are like others : nor did 1 hear any thing of their flieep, to be particularly re- marked.

In the penury of thefe malignant regions nothing is left that can be converted to food. The goats and the fheep are milked like the cows. A fingte meal of a goat is a quart, and of a fheep a pint. Such at leaft was the account, which I could extracl: from thofe of whom I am not fure that they ever had inquired.

The

>88 A JOURNEY TO THE

The milk of goats is much thinner than, that of cows, and that of fheep is much thicker. Sheeps milk is never eaten be- fore it is boiled : as it is thick, it muft be very liberal of curd, and the people of £/, J£ilda form it into fmall cheefes.

The (lags of the mountains are lefs than thofe of our parks, or forefts, perhaps not bigger than our fallow deer. Their flefh has no ranknefs, nor is inferiour in flavour to our common venifon. The roebuck I neither faw nor tailed. Thefe are not coun- tries for a regular chafe. The deer are not driven with horns and hounds. A fportf- man, with his gun in his hand* watches the animal, and when he has wounded him, traces him by the blood.

They have a race of brinded greyhounds larger and flronger than thofe with which we courfe hares, and thofe are the only dogs ufed by them for the chafe.

Man,

M

WESTERN ISLANDS, &e. 189

an is by the ufe of fire-arms made fo much an overmatch for other animals, that in all countries, where they are in ufe, the wild part of the creation fenfibly dimi- nifhes. There will probably not .be long either flags or roebucks in the Iflands. All the beafts of chafe would have been loft long ago in countries well inhabited, had they not been preferved by laws for the pleafure of the rich.

There are in Sky neither rats nor mice, but the weafel is fo frequent, that he is heard in houfes rattling behind chefts or beds, as rats in England. They probably owe to his predominance that they have no other vermin ; for fince the great rat took pofleffion of this part of the world, fcarce a fliip can touch at any port, but fome of his race are left behind. They have with- in thefe few years began to infeft the Me of Col, where being left by fome trading

veflel,

1 90 A JOURNEY TO THE

veffel, they have increafed for want of wea* fels to oppofe them.

The inhabitants of Sky, and of the other Iflands, which I have feen, are commonly of the middle fixture, with fewer among them very tall or very fhort, than are feen in England, or perhaps, as their numbers are fmall, the chances of any deviation from the common meafure are neceffarily few. The talleft men that I faw are among thofe of higher rank. In regions of bar- rennefs and fcarcity, the human race is hindered in its .growth by the fame caufes as other animals.

The ladies have as much beauty here as in other places, but bloom and foftnefs are not to be expected among the lower clafles, whofe faces are expofed to the rudenefs of the climate, and whofe features are fome- times contracted by want, and fometimes hardened by the blafts. Supreme beauty

is

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.

is feldom found in cottages or work-fhops, even where no real hardfhips are fufFered. To expand the human face to its full per- fection, it feems neceflary that the mind fhould co-operate by placidnefs of content, or confcioufnefs of fuperiority.

Their ftrength is proportionate to their fize, but they are accuftomed to run upon rough ground, and therefore can with great agility fkip over the bog, or clam- ber the mountain. For a .campaign in the waftes of America, foldiers better qualified could not have been found. Having little work to do, they are not willing, nor per- haps able to endure a long continuance of manual labour, and are therefore confider- ed as habitually idle.

Having never been fupplied with thefe accommodations, which life extenfively di* verfified with trades affords, they fupply their wants by very inefficient fliifts,

and

192 A JOURNEY TO THE

and endure many inconveniences, which a little attention would eafily relieve. I have feen a horfe carrying home the harveft on a crate. Under his tail was a (lick for a crupper, held at the two ends by twifts of ftraw. Hemp will grow in their iflands, and therefore ropes may be had. If they wanted hemp, they might make better cord- age of rufhes, or perhaps of nettles, than

Their method of life neither' fecures them perpetual health, nor expofes them to any particular difeafes. There are phy- ficians in the Iflands1, who, I believe, all pra&ife chirurgery, and all compound their own medicines.

It is generally fuppofed, that life is longer in places where there are few oppor- tunities of luxury; but I found no in- ftance here of extraordinary longevity. A cottager grows old over his oaten cakes,

like

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 193

like a citizen at a turtle feaft. He is in- deed feldom incommoded by corpulence. Poverty preferves him from finking under the burden of himfelf, but he efcapes ho other injury of time. Inftances of long life are often related, which thofe who hear them are more willing to credit than examine. To be told that any man has attained a hundred years, gives hope and comfort to him who ftands trembling on the brink of his own clima&erick.

Length of life is diftributed impartially to very different modes of life in very diffe- rent climates; arid the mountains have no greater examples of age and health than the low lands, where I was introduced to two ladies of high quality -, one of whom, in her ninety-fourth year, prefided at her table with the full exercife of all her powers; and the other has attained her eighty-fourth, without any diminution of her vivacity, O and

A JOURNEY TO THE

and with little reafon to accufe time of depredations on her beauty.

In the Iflands, as in moft other places, the inhabitants are of different rank, and one does not encroach here upon another* Where there is no commerce nor manufac- ture, he that is born poor can fcarce be- come rich ; and if none are able to buy eftates, he that is born to land cannot anni- hilate his family by felling it. This was once the ftate of thefe countries. Perhaps there is no example, till within a century and half, of any family whofe eftate was alienated otherwife than by violence or for- feiture. Since money has been brought amongft them, they have found* like others, the art of fpending more, than they receive ; and I faw with grief the chief of a very ancient clan, whcfe Ifland was condemned by law to be fold for the fatisfa&ion of his creditors.

The

WESTE-RN ISLANDS, &c. 195

The name of higheft dignity Is Laird, of which there are in the extenfive Ifle of Sky only three, Macdonald^ Macleod, and Mac-, lunnon. The Laird is the original owner of the land, whofe natural power muft he very great, where no man lives but by agriculture ; and where the produce of the land is not conveyed through the labyrinths of traffick, but paiTes directly from the hand that gathers it to the mouth that eats it. The Laird has all thofe in his power that live upon his farms. Kings can, for the moft part, only exalt or degrade. The Laird at pleafure can feed or ilarve, can give bread, or withhold it. This inherent power was yet flrengthened by the kind- nefs of confanguinity, and the reverence of patriarchal authority. The Laird was the father of the Clan, and his tenants com- monly bore his name. And to thefe prin- ciples of original command was added, for many ages, an exclufive right of legal jurifdidion.

O 2 This

A JOURNEY TO

This multifarious and extenfive obliga- tion operated with force fcarcely credible. Every duty, moral or political, was ab- forbed in affedion and adherence to the Chief. Not many years have pafled fince the Clans knew no law but the Laird's will. He told them to whom they fhould be friends or enemies, what king they fhould obey, and what religion they fhould pro- fefs.

When the Scots firft rofe in arms againft the fucceffion of the houfe of Hanover^ Lovaty the Chief of the Frafers, was in exile for a rape. The Frafers were very numerous, and very zealous againft the government. A pardon was fent to Lovat. He came to the EngUJh camp, and the Clan immediately deferted to him.

Next in dignity to the Laird is the Tackfman; a large taker of leafe-holder of land, of which he keeps part, as a do- main

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 197

main in his own hand, and lets part to under-tenants. The Tackfman is necefla- rily a man capable of featuring to the Laird the whole rent, and is commonly a colla- teral relation. Thefe tacks > or fubordinate pofTeffions, were long confidered as here- ditary, and the occupant was diftinguimed by the name of the place at which he refided. He held a middle ftation, by which the higheil and the loweft orders were conne&ed. He paid rent and reve- rence to the Laird, and received them from the tenants. This tenure ftill fubfifts, with its original operation, but not with the primitive liability. Since the iilanders, no longer content to live, have learned the defire of growing rich, an ancient depend- ent is in danger of giving way to a higher bidder, at the expence of domeftic dig- nity and hereditary power. The ftranger, whofe money buys him preference, confi- ders himfelf as paying for all that he has, and is indifferent about the Laird's honour O or

j98 A JOURNEY T.O THE

or fafety. The commodioufnefs of money is indeed great ; but there are fome advan- tages which money cannot buy, and which therefore no wife man will by the love of money be tempted to forego.

I have found in the hither parts of Scot- landr men not defective in judgment or general experience, who confider the Tackf- man a& a ufelefs burden of the ground, as a drone who lives upon the product of an eftate, without the right of property, or the merit of labour, and who impove- riiHes at once the landlord and the tenant. The land, fay they, is let to the Tackf- man at fix-pence an acre, and by him to the tenant at ten-pence. Let the owner be the immediate landlord to all the tenants ; if he fets the ground at eight-pence, he will increafe his revenue by a fourth part, and the tenant's burden will be diminiihed by a fifth*

Thofe

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 199

Thofe who purfue this train of reafon- ing, feem not fufficiently to inquire whi- ther it will lead them, nor to know that it will equally {hew the propriety of fuppreff- ing all wholefale trade, of {hutting up the fhops of every man who fells what he does not make, and of extruding all whofe agency and profit intervene between the martufa&urer and the confumer. They may, by ftretching their underftandings a little wider, comprehend, that all thofe who by undertaking large quantities of manufa&ure, and affording employment to many labourers, make themfelves conii- dered as benefactors to the publick, have enly been robbing their workmen with one hand, and their cuftomers with the other. If Crowley had fold only what he could make, and all his fmiths had wrought their own iron with their own hammers, he would have lived on lefs, and they would have fold their work for more. The fala- ries of fuperintendents and clerks would O 4 have

A JOURNEY TO THE

have been partly faved, and partly fhared, and nails been fometimes cheaper by a far- thing in a hundred. But then if the fmith could not have found an immediate pur- chafer, he muft have deferred his anvil; if there had by accident at any time been more fellers than buyers, the workmen muft have reduced their profit to nothing, by underfelling one another ; and as no great flock could have been in amy hand, no fudden demand of large quantities could have been anfwered, and the builder muft have flood flill till the nailer could fupply him.

According to thefe fchemes, univerfaj plenty is to begin and end in univerfal mifery. Hope and emulation will he ut- terly extinguifhed ; and as all muft obey the call of immediate neceffity, nothing; that requires extenfive views, or provides for diftant confequences, will ever be per- formed,

To

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 2or

To the fouthern inhabitants of Scotland, the ftate of the mountains and the iflands is equally unknown with that of Borneo or Sumatra : Of both they have only heard a little, and guefs the reft. They are ftran- gers to the language and the manners, to the advantages and wants of the people, whofe life they would model, and whofe evils they would remedy.

Nothing is lefs difficult than to procure one convenience by the forfeiture of another. A foldier may expedite his march by throw-* ing away his arms. To banifh the Tackf- man is eafy, to make a country plentiful by diminiihing the people, is an expeditious mode of hufbandry ; but that abundance, which there is nobody to enjoy, contributes little to human happinefs.

As the mind mull govern the hands, fo in every fociety the man of intelligence muft direct the man of labour. If the

Tackfmea

202 A JOURNEY TO THE

Tackfmen be taken away, the Hebrides muft in their prefent ftate be given up to groflfnefs and ignorance ; the tenant, for want of inftrudiion, will be unfkilful, and for want of admonition will be negli- gent- The Laird, in thefe wide eftates, which often confift of iflands remote from one another, cannot extend his perfonal influence to all his tenants ; and the fteward having no dignity annexed to his character, can have little authority among men taught to pay reverence only to birth, and who regard the Tackfman as their hereditary fuperior; nor can the fteward have equal zeal for the profperity of an eftate profitable only lo the Laird, with the Tackfman, who has the Laird's income involved in his own.

The only gentlemen in .the iflands are the Lairds, the Tackfmen, and the Mini- ilers, who frequently improve their livings by becoming farmers. If the Tackfmen

be

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 203

be banifhed, who will be left to impart knowledge, or imprefs civility ? The Laird muft always be at a diftance from the greater part of his lands ; and if he refides at all upon them, rriuft drag his days in folitude, having no longer either a friend or a companion ; he will therefore depart to~fome more comfortable refidence, and leave the tenants to the wifdom and mercy of a factor.

Of tenants there are different orders, as they have greater or lefs flock. Land is fometimes leafed to a fmall fellowfhip, who live in a clufter of huts, called a Tenants Town, and are bound jointly and fepa- rately for the payment of their rent. Thefe, I believe, employ in the care of their cattle, and the labour of tillage, a kind of tenants yet lower; who hiving a hut, with grafs for a certain number of cows and flieep,- pay their rent by a ftipulated quan- tity of labour.

The

A JOURNEY TO THE

The condition of domeftic fervants, or the price of occafional labour, I do not know with certainty. I was told that the maids have fheep, and are allowed to fpin for their own clothing ; perhaps they have no pecuniary wages, or none but in very wealthy families. The ilate of life which has hitherto been purely paftoral, begins now to be a little variegated with com- merce ; but novelties enter by degrees, and till one mode has fully prevailed over the other, no fettled notion can be formed.

Such is the fyftem of infular fabordina- tion, which, having little variety, cannot afford much delight in the view, nor long detain the mind in contemplation. The inhabitants were for a long time perhaps not unhappy; but their content was a muddy mixture of pride and ignorance, an indifference for pleafures which they did not know, a blind veneration for their

chiefs,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 165

chiefs, and a ftrong convi&ion of their own importance.

Their pride has been crufhed by the heavy hand of a vindictive conqueror, whofe feverities have been followed by laws, which, though they cannot be called cruel, have produced much difcontent, be- caufe they operate upon the furface of life, and make every eye bear witnefs to fubjec- tion. To be compelled to a new drefs has always been found painful.

Their chiefs being now deprived of their jurifdidion, have already loft much of their influence; and as they gradually degene- rate from patriarchal rulers to rapacious landlords, they will divert themfelves of the little that remains.

That dignity which they derived from an opinion of their military importance, the law, which difarmed them, has abated.

An

205 A JOURNEY TO THE

An old gentleman, delighting himfelf wi.th the recollection of better days, related, that forty years ago, a Chieftain walked out attended by ten or twelve followers, with their arms rattling. That animating rab- ble has now ceafed. The Chief has loft his formidable retinue; and the Highlander walks his heath unarmed and defencelefs, with the peaceable fubmiffion of a French peafant or Englifh cottager.

Their ignorance grows every day lefs, but their knowledge is yet of little other ufe than to (hew them their wants. They are now in the period of education, and feel the uneafmefs of difcipline, without yet perceiving the benefit of inftrudion.

The laft law, by which the Highlanders are deprived of their arms, has operated with efficacy beyond expectation. Of for- mer ftatutes made with the fame defign, the execution had been feeble, and the efFecT:

incon-

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 207

inconfiderable. Concealment was undoubt- edly pradifed, and perhaps often with connivance. There was tendernefs or par- tiality on one fide, and obftinacy on the other. But the law, which followed the victory of Culloden, found the whole na- tion deje&ed and intimidated ; informa- tions were given without danger, and without fear, and the arms were collected with fuch rigour, that every houfe was defpoiled of its defence,

To difarm part of the Highlands, could give no reafonable occafion of complaint. Every government muft be allowed the power of taking away the weapon that is lifted againft it. But the loyal Clans rnur-i inured, with fome appearance of juftice, that after having defended the King, they were forbidden for the future to defend themfelves ; and that the fword fhould be forfeited, which had been legally employed. Their cafe is undoubtedly hard, but in 5 political

io8 A JOURNEY TO THE

political regulations, good cannot be com- plete, it can only be predominant.

Whether by difarming a people thus broken into feveral tribes, and thus remote from the feat of power, more good than evil has been produced, may deferve in- quiry. The fupreme power in every com* munity has the right of debarring every individual, and every fubordinate fociety, from felf-defence, only becaufe the fupreme power is able to defend them; and there- fore where the governor cannot aft, he xnuft truft the fufejed to aft for himfelf. Thefe Iflands might be wafted with fire and fword before their fovereign would know their diftrefs. A gang of robbers, fuch as has been lately found confederating them- felves in the Highlands, might lay a wide region under contribution. The crew of a petty privateer might land on the largeft and moft wealthy of the Iflands, and riot without control in cruelty and wafte. It

was

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 209 was obferved by one of the Chiefs of

that fifty armed men might, without refift- ance, ravage the country. Laws that place the fubjects in fuch a ftate, contra- vene the firft principles of the compact of authority : they exadt obedience, and yield no protection.

It affords a generous and manly pleafure to conceive a little nation gathering its fruits and tending its herds with fearlefs confidence, though it lies open on every fide to invafion, where, in contempt of walls and trenches, every man fleeps fecure- ly with his fword befide him; where all on the firft approach of hoftility came together at the call to battle, as at a fummons to a feftal {how; and committing their cattle to the care of thofe whom age or nature has difabled, engage the enemy with that competition for hazard and for glory, which operate in men that fight under the eye of thofe, whofe diilike or kindnefs they P have

210 A JOURNEY TO THE

have always confidered as the greateft evil or the greateft good.

This was, in the beginning of the pre- fent century, the ftate of the Highlands. Every man was a foldier, who partook of national confidence, and interefted himfelf in national honour. To lofe this fpirit, is to lofe what no fmall advantage will com- penfate.

It may likewife deferve to be inquired, whether a great nation ought to be totally commercial ? whether, amidft the uncer- tainty of human affairs, too much atten- tion to one mode of happinefs may not endanger others ? whether the pride of riches muft not fometimes have recourfe to the protection of courage? and whether, if it be necefiary to preferve in fome part of the empire the military fpirit, it can fubfift more commodioufly in any place, than in remote and unprofitable provinces, 7 where

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 211

where it can commonly do little harm, and whence it may be called forth at any fud- den exigence ?

It muft however be confefled, that a man who places honour only in fuccefsful vio- lence, is a very troublefome and pernicious animal in time of peace; and that the mar- tial character cannot prevail in a whole people, but by the diminution of all other virtues. He that is accuftomed to refolve all right into conqueft, will have very little tendernefs or equity. All the friendfhip in fuch a life can only be a confederacy of invafion, or alliance of defence. The ftrong muft flourifh by force, and the weak fub- fift by ftratagem.

Till the Highlanders loft their ferocity, with their arms, they fuffered from each other all that malignity could didate, or precipitance could adt. Every provocation was revenged with blood, and no man that P 2 ventured

A JOURNEY TO THE

ventured into a numerous company, by whatever occafion brought together, was fure of returning without a wound. If they are now expofed to foreign hoftilities, they may talk of the danger, but can feldom feel it. If they are no longer mar- tial, they are no longer quarrelfome. Mifery is caufed for the moft part, not by a heavy crufh of difafter, but by the corrofion of lefs vifible evils, which canker enjoyment, and undermine fecurity. The vifit of an invader is neceflarily rare, but domeftick animofities allow no ceflation.

The abolition of the local jurifdidions, which had for fo many ages been exercifed by the Chiefs, has likewife its evil and its good. The feudal conflitution naturally diffufed itfelf into long ramifications of fubordinate authority. To this general temper of the government was added the peculiar form of the country, broken by mountains into many fubdivifions fcarcely

acceffible

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 213

accqffible but to the natives, and guarded by pafles, or perplexed with intricacies, through which national juftice could not find its way.

The power of deciding controverfies, and of punifhing offences, as fome fuch powe'r there mud always be, was entrufted to the Lairds of the country, to thofe whom the people confidered as their natural judges. It cannot be fuppofed that a rug- ged proprietor of the rocks, unprincipled and unenlightened, was a nice refolver of entangled claims, or very exacT; in propor- tioning punifhment to offences. But the more he indulged his own will, the more he held his vaflals in dependance. Pru- dence and innocence, without the favour of the Chief, conferred no fecurity ; and crimes involved no danger, when the judge was refolute to acquit.

P 3 When

A JOURNEY TO THE

When the Chiefs were men of know- ledge and virtue, the convenience of a domeftick judicature was great. No long journies were neceflary, nor artificial de- lays could be pradifed ; the character, the alliances, and interefts of the litigants were known to the court, and all falfe pretences were eafily detected. The fentence, when it was pad, could not be evaded ; the power of the Laird fuperfeded formalities, and juftice could not be defeated by intereft or ftratagem.

I doubt not but that fince the regular judges have made their circuits through the whole country, right has been every where more wifely and more equally diftributed ; the complaint is, that litigation is grown troublefome, and that the magiltrates are , too few, and therefore often too remote for general convenience.

Many

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 215

Many of the fmaller Iflands have no legal officer within them. I once alked, If a crime fhould be committed, by what authority the offender could be feized ? and was told, that the Laird would exert his right; a right which he muft now ufurp, but which furely neceflity muft vin- dicate, and which is therefore yet exer- cifed in lower degrees by fome of the proprietors, when legal proceffes cannot be obtained.

In all greater queftibns, however, there is now happily an end to all fear or hope from malice or from favour. The roads are fecure in thofe places through which, forty years ago, no traveller could pafs without a convoy. All trials of right by the fword are forgotten, and the mean are in as little danger from the powerful as in other places. No fcheme of policy has, in any country, yet brought the rich and poor on equal terms into courts of judica- P 4 ture-

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ture. Perhaps experience, improving on experience, rnay in time effect it.

Thofe who have long enjoyed dig- nity and power, ought not to lofe it with- out fome equivalent. There was paid to the Chiefs by the publick, in ex- change for their privileges, perhaps a fum greater than moft of them had ever pof- fefled, which excited a thirft for riches, of which it (hewed them the ufe. When the power of birth and ftation ceafes, no hope remains but from the prevalence of money. Power and wealth fupply the place of each other. Power confers the ability of grati- fying our defire without the confent of others. Wealth enables us to obtain the confent of others to our gratification* Power, fimply confidered, whatever it con- fers on one, muft take from another. Wealth enables its owner to give to others, by taking only from himfelf. Power pleafes the viqlent and proud: wealth delights the

placid

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 217

placid and the timorous. Youth therefore flies at power, and age grovels after riches.

The Chiefs, diverted of their preroga- tives, neceffarily turned their thoughts to the improvement of their revenues, and expect more rent, as they have lefs ho- mage. ,The tenant, who is far from per- ceiving that his condition is made better in the fame proportion, as that of his land- lord is made worfe, does not immediately fee why his induftry is to be taxed more heavily than before. He refufes to pay the demand, and is ejected ; the ground is then let to a Granger, who perhaps brings a larger flock, but who, taking the land at its full price, treats with the Laird upon equal terms, and confiders him not as a Chief, but as a trafficker in land. Thus the eftate perhaps is improved, but the Clan is broken.

It

2i8 A JOURNEY TO THE

It feeins to be the general opinion, that the rents have been raifed with too much eagernefs. Some regard mufl be paid to prejudice. Thofe who have hitherto paid but little, will not fuddenly be perfuaded to pay much, though they can afford it. As ground is gradually improved, and the va- lue of money decreafes, the rent may be raifed without an'y diminution of the far- mer's profits : yet it is neceflary in thefe countries, where the ejection of a tenant is a greater evil, than in more populous places, to confider not merely what the land will produce, but with what ability the inhabitant can cultivate it. A certain flock can allow but a certain payment ; for if the land be doubled, and the flock remains the fame, the tenant becomes no richer. The pro- prietors of the Highlands might perhaps often increafe their income, by fubdividing the farms, and allotting to every occupier only fo many acres as he can profitably employ, but that they want people.

There

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 219

There feems now, whatever be the caufe, to be through a great part of the Highlands a general difcontent. That adherence, which was lately profeffcd by every man to the Chief of his name, has now little prevalence; and he that cannot live as he defires at home, liflens to the tale of for- tunate iflands and happy regions, where every man may have land of his own, and eat the product of his labour without a fuperior.

Thofe who have obtained grants of Ame- rican lands, have, as is well known, in- vited fettlers from all quarters of the globe ; and among other places, where oppreffion might produce a wifti for new habitations, their emiflaries would not fail to try their perfuafions in the Ifles of Scotland, where at the time when the Clans were newly dif- united from their Chiefs, and exafperated by unprecedented exa&ionSj it is no won- der that they prevailed.

Whether

220 A JOURNEY TO THE

Whether the mifchiefs of emigration were immediately perceived, may be juftly queftioned. They who went firft, were probably fuch as could beft be fpared ; but the accounts lent by the earlieft adventurers, whether true or falfe, inclined many to fol- low them ; and whole neighbourhoods formed parties for removals fo that depar- ture from their native country is no longer exile. He that goes thus accompanied, carries with him all that makes life plea- fant. He fits down in a better climate, furrounded by his kindred and his friends: they carry with them their language, their opinions, their popular fongs, and heredi- tary merriment : they change nothing but the place of their abode ; and of that change they perceive the benefit.

This is the real effect of emigration, if thofe that go away together fettle on the fame fpot, and preferve their ancient union. But fome relate that thefe adventurous vifit-

ants

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 221

ants of unknown regions, after a voyage patTed in dreams of plenty and felicity, are difperfed at laft upon a fylvan wildernefs, where their firft years muft be fpent in toil, to clear the ground which is afterwards to be tilled, and that the whole effect of their undertaking is only more fatigue and equal fcarcity.

Both accounts may be fufpe&ed. Thofe who are gone will endeavour by every art to draw others after them ; for as their numbers are greater, they will provide bet- ter for themfelves. When Nova Scotia was firft peopled, I remember a letter, publilhed under the character of a New Planter, who related how much the climate put him in mind of Italy. Such intelligence the He* brldlans probably receive from their tranf- marine correfpondents. But with equal temptations of intereft, and perhaps with no greater nicenefs of veracity, the owners of the Iflands fpread ftories of American

hardfhips

222 A JOURNEY TO THE

hardfhips to keep their people content at home.

Some method to flop this epidemick de- fire of wandering, which fpreads its conta- gion from valley to valley, deferves to be fought with great diligence. In more fruit- ful countries, the removal of one, only makes room for the fucceffion of another : but in the Hebrides, the lofs of an inha- bitant leaves a lafting vacuity ; for nobody born in any other parts of the world will choofe this country for his refidence; and an Ifiand once depopulated will remain a defert, as long as the prefent facility of travel gives every one, who is difcontented and unfettled, the choice of his abode.

Let it be inquired, whether the firft in- tention of thofe who are fluttering on the wing, and collecting a flock that they may take their flight, be to attain good, or to avoid evil. If they are diflatif-

fied

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 223

fied with that part of the globe, which their birth has allotted them, and refolve not to live without the pleafures of happier cli- mates; if they long for bright funs, and calm fkies, and flowery fields, and fragrant gardens, I know not by what eloquence they can be perfuaded, or by what offers

they can be hired, to ftay.

i

But if they are driven from their native country by pofitive evils, and difgufted by ill-treatment, real or imaginary, it were fit to remove their grievances, and quiet their refentment ; fince, if they have been hitherto undutiful fubjeds, they will not much mend their principles by American converfation.

To allure them into the army, it was thought proper to indulge them in the con- tinuance of their national drefs. If this conceffion could have any effect, it might eafily be made. That diffimilitude of ap- pearance,

S24 A JOURNEY TO THE

pearance, which was fuppofed to keep them dlflind: from the reft of the nation, might difincline them from coalefcing with the Fenfyhanians or people of Connecticut. If the reftitution of their arms will recon- cile them to their country, let them have again thofe weapons, which will not be more mifchievous at home than in the Co- lonies. That they may not fly from the increafe of rent, I know not whether the general good does not require that the land- lords be, for a time, reftrained in their de- mands, and kept quiet by penfions propor- tionate to their lofs.

To hinder* infurrecYion by driving away the people, and to govern peaceably by having no fubjeds, is an expedient that argues no great profundity of politicks. To foften the obdurate, to convince the miftaken, to mollify the refentful, are wor- thy of a flatefman ; but it affords a legifla- tor litile felf-applaufe to confider, that

where

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 225

where there was formerly an infurre&ion, there is now a wildernefs.

It has been a queftion often agitated without folution, why thofe northern re- gions are now fo thinly peopled, which for- merly overwhelmed with their armies the Roman empire. The queftion fuppofes what I believe is not true, that they had once more inhabitants than they could maintain, and overflowed only becaufe they were full.

This is to eftimate the manners of all countries and ages by our own. Migration, while the ftate of life was unfettled, and there was little communication of intelligence be- tween diftant places, was among the wilder nations of Europe, capricious and cafual. An adventitious projector heard of a fertile coaft unoccupied, and led out a colony ; a chief of renown for bravery, called the young men together, and led them out to try what fortune would prefent. When Caefar

A JOURNEY TO THE

was in Gaul, he found the Helvetians pre- paring to go they knew not whither, and put a flop to their motions. They fettled again in their own country, where they were fo far from wanting room, that they had accumulated three years provifion for their march.

The religion of the North was military ; if they could not find enemies, it was their duty to make them : they travelled in queft of danger, and willing took the chance of Empire or Death. If their troops were numerous, the countries from which they were collected are of vaft extent, and with- out much exuberance of people great ar- mies may be raifed where every man is a foldier. But their true numbers were never known. Thofe who were conquered by them are their hiftorians, and fhame may have excited them to fay, that they were overwhelmed with multitudes. To count is a modern practice, the ancient 7 method

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 227

method was to guefs ; and when numbers are gueffed they are always magnified.

Thus England has for feveral years been filled with the atchievements of feventy thoufand Highlanders employed in Ame- rica. I have heard from an Englifh officer, not much inclined to favour them, that their behaviour deferved a very high degree of military praife ; but their number has been much exaggerated. One of the mini- fters told me, that feventy thoufand men could not have been found in all the High- lands, and that more than twelve thoufand never took the field. Thofe that went to the American war, went to deftru&ion. Of the old Highland regiment, confiding of twelve hundred, only feventy-fix furvived to fee their country again.

The Gothick fwarms have at leaf! been multiplied with equal liberality. That they bore no great proportion to the inhabitants, in whofe countries they fettled, is plain from-

the

228 A JOURNEY TO THE

the paucity of northern words now found in the provincial languages. Their coun- try was not deferred for want of room, becaufe it was covered with forefts of vaft extent; and the firft effecl of plenitude of inhabitants is the deftrudion of wood. As the Europeans fpread over America^ the lands are gradually laid naked.

I would not be underflood to fay, that neceflity had never any part in their expe- ditions. A nation, whofe agriculture is fcanty or unfkilful, may be driven out by famine. A nation of hunters may have ex- haufted their game. I only affirm that the northern regions were not, when their ir- ruptions fubdued the Romans, overpeopled with regard to their real extent of territory, and power of fertility. In a country fully inhabited, however afterward laid wafte, evident marks will remain of its former populoufnefs. But of Scandinavia and Ger- tnany> nothing is known but that as we

trace

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 229

trace their (late upwards into antiquity, their woods were greater and their culti- vated ground was lefs.

That caufes very different from want of room may produce a general difpofition to feek another country, is apparent from the prefent conduct of the Highlanders, who are in fome places ready to threaten a total feceffion. The numbers which have al- ready gone, though like other numbers they may be magnified, are very great, and fuch as if they had gone together and agreed upon any certain fettlement, might have founded an independent government in the depths of the weftern continent. Nor are they only the lowed and moft indi- gent ; many men of confiderable wealth have taken with them their train of la- bourers and dependants; and if they con- tinue the feudal fcheme of polity, may eftablim new Clans in the other hemifphere.

Tha

230 A JOURNEY TO THE

That the immediate motives of their defertion muft be imputed to their land- lords, may be reafonably concluded, becaufe fome Lairds of more prudence and lefs rapacity have kept their vaflals undimi- nimed. From Raafay only one man had been feduced, and at Col there was no wifh to go away.

The traveller who comes hither from more opulent countries, to fpeculate upon the remains of paftoral life, will not much wonder that a common Highlander has no ftrong adherence to his native foil ; for of animal enjoyments, or of phyfical good, he leaves nothing that he may not find again wherefoever he may be thrown.

The habitations of men in the Hebrides may be diflinguifhed into huts and houfes. By a boufe, I mean a building with one ftory over another ; by a hut) a dwelling with only one floor. The Laird, who for- merly

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 231

merly lived in a caflle, now lives in a houfe ; fometimes fufficiently neat, but fel- dom very fpacious or fplendid. The Tacki- men and the Minifters have commonly houfes. Wherever there is a houfe, the flranger finds a welcome, and to the other evils of exterminating Tackfmen may be added the unavoidable ceflation of hofpi- tality, or the devolution of too heavy a burden on the Minifters.

Of the houfes little can be faid. They are fmall, and by the neceflity of accumu- lating ftores, where there are fo few oppor- tunities of purchafe, the rooms are very heterogeneoufly filled. With want of clean- linefs it were ingratitude to reproach them. The fervants having been bred upon the naked earth, think every floor clean, and the quick fucceffion of guefts, perhaps not always over-elegant, does not allow much time for adjufting their apartments.

Huts

232 A JOURNEY TO THE

Huts are of many gradations ; from murky dens, to commodious dwellings.

The wall of a common hut is always built without mortar, by a fkilful adaptation of loofe ftones. Sometimes perhaps a double wall of ftones is raifed, and the interme- diate fpace rilled with earth. The air is thus completely excluded. Some walls are, I think, formed of turfs, held toge- ther by a wattle, or texture of twigs. Of the meaneft huts, the firft room is lighted by the entrance, and the fecond by the fmoke-hole. The fire is ufually made in the middle. But there are huts, or dwellings, of only one ftory, inhabited by gentlemen, which have walls cemented with mortar, glafs windows, and boarded floors. Of thefe all have chimneys, and fome chimneys have grates.

The houfe and the furniture are not always nicely fuited. We were driven

once,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 233

once, by miffing a paffage, to the hut of a gentleman, where, after a very liberal fupper, when I was conducted to my cham- ber, I found an elegant bed of Indian cot- ton, fpread with fine fheets. The accom- modation was flattering; I undreiTed myfelf, and felt my feet in the mire. The bed flood upon the bare earth, which a long courfe of rain had foftened to a puddle.

In paftoral countries the condition of the loweft rank of people is fufficiently wretch- ed. Among manufacturers, men that have no property may have art and indufiry, which make them neceflary, and therefore valuable. But where flocks and corn are the only wealth, there are always more hands than work, and of that work there is little in which fkill and dexterity can be much diftinguifhed. He therefore who is born poor never can be rich. The fon merely occupies the place of the father, and

life

234 A JOURNEY TO THE

life knows nothing of progreffion or ad* vancement.

The petty tenants, and labouring pea- fants, live in miferable cabins, which afford them little more than fhelter from the florms. The Boor of Norway is faid to make all his own utenfils. In the Hebrides, whatever might be their ingenuity, the want of wood leaves them no materials. They are probably content with fuch ac- commodations as flones of different forms and fizes can afford them.

Their food is not better than their lodg- ing. They feldom tafte the flefh of land animals ; for here are no markets. What each man eats is from his own flock. The great effect of money is to break property into fmall parts. In towns, he that has a {hilling may have a piece of meat; but where there is no commerce, no man can eat mutton but by killing a fheep.

Fifh

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 235

Fim in fair weather they need not want; but, I believe, man never lives long on fifh, but by conftraint ; he will rather feed upon roots and berries.

The only fewel of the Iflands is peat. Their wood is all confumed, and coal they have not yet found. Peat is dug out of the marfhes, from the depth of one foot to that of fix. That is accounted the beft which is neareft the furface. It appears to be a mafs of black earth held together by \egetable fibres. I know not whether the earth be bituminous, or whether the fibres be not the only combuftible part; which, by heating the interpofed earth red hot, make a burning mafs. The heat is not very ftrong nor lading. The afhes are yellowifh, and in a large quantity. When they dig peat, they cut it into fquare pieces, and pile it up to dry befide the houfe. In fome places it has an offenfive frnell. It is like wood charked for the fmith. The

common

236 A JOURNEY TO THE

common method of making peat fires, is by heaping it on the hearth ; but it burns well in grates, and in the beft houfes is fo ufed.

The common opinion is, that peat grows again where it has been cut ; which, as it feems to be chiefly a vegetable fubitance, is not unlikely to be true, whether known or not to thofe who relate it.

There are water mills in Sky and Raafay\ but where they are too far diftant, the houfe-wives grind their oats with a quern, or hand-mill, which confifts of two ftones, about a foot and a half in diameter ; the lower is a little convex, to which the concavity of the upper muft be fitted. In the middle of the upper ftone is a round bole, and on one fide is a long handle. The grinder iheds the corn gradually into the hole with one hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn Hides

down

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 237

down the convexity of the lower ftone, and by the motion of the upper is ground in its paffage. Thefe ftones are found in Lock- abar.

The Iflands afford few pleafures, except to the hardy fportfman, who can tread the moor and climb the mountain. The dif- tance of one family from another, in a country where travelling has fo much diffi- culty, makes frequent intercourfe imprac- ticable. Vifits laft feveral days, and are commonly paid by water ; yet I never faw a boat furniflied with benches, or made commodious by any addition to the firft fabrick. Conveniencies are not miffed where they never were enjoyed.

The folace which the bagpipe can give, they have long enjoyed ; but among other changes, which the laft revolution in- troduced, the ufe of the bagpipe begins to be forgotten. Some of the chief families

flill

238 A JOURNEY TO THE

ftill entertain a piper, whofe office was an- ciently hereditary. Macrimmon was piper to Mackody and Rankin to Mack an of CoL

The tunes of the bagpipe are traditional. There has been in Sky, beyond all time of memory, a college of pipers, under the direction of Macrimmon, which is not quite extinct. There was another in Mull, fu- perintended by Rankin, which expired about fixteen years ago. To thefe colleges, while the pipe retained its honour, the ftudents of mufick repaired for education. I have had my dinner exhilarated by the bagpipe, at Armidale, at Dunvegan, and in Col.

^

The general converfation of the Wanders has nothing particular. I did not meet with the inquifitivenefs of which I have read, and fufpeft the judgment to have been rafhly made. A ftranger of curiofity comes into a place where a ftranger is fel-

dom

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 2391

dom feen : he importupes the people with queftions, of which they cannot guefs the motive, and gazes with furprife on things •which they, having had them always be- fore their eyes, do not fufpecl; of any thing wonderful. He appears to them like fome being of another world, and then thinks it peculiar that they take their turn to in- quire whence he comes, and whither he is going.

The Iflands were long unfurnifhed with inftrudion for youth, and none but the fons of gentlemen could have any lite- rature. There are now parochial fchools, to which the lord of every manor pays a certain ftipend, Here the children are taught to read ; but by the rule of their inftitu- tion, they teach only EngKJh^.^Q that the natives read a language which they may never ufe or underfland. If a parifh, which often happens, contains feveral Iflands, the fchool being but in one, cannot affift the

reft.

240 A JOURNEY TO THE

reft. This is the ftate of C<?7, which, how- ever, is more enlightened than fome other places ; for the deficiency is fupplied by a young gentleman, who, for his own im- provement, travels every year on foot over the Highlands to the feffion at Aberdeen ; and at his return, during the vacation, teaches to read and write in his native Ifland.

In Sky there are two grammar fchools, where boarders are taken to be regularly educated. The price of board is from three pounds, to four pounds ten (hillings a year, and that of inftrudtion is half a crown a quarter. But the fcholars are birds of paflage, who live at fchool only in the fummer; for in winter provifions cannot be made for any coafiderable number in one place. This periodical difperfion im- prefies ftrongly the fcarcity of thefe coun- tries.

I heard

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 241

Having heard of no boarding- fchool for ladies nearer than Invernefs, I fuppofe their education is generally domeftick. The elder daughters of the higher families are fent into the world, and may contribute by their acquifitions to the improvement of the reft*

Women muft here ftudy to be either pleafmg or ufeful. Their deficiencies are feldom fupplied by very liberal fortunes. A hundred pounds is a portion beyond the hope of any but the Laird's daughter. They do not indeed often give money with their daughters ; the queftion is, How many Cows a young lady will bring her hufband ? A rich maiden has from ten to forty ; but two cows are a decent fortune for one who pretends to no diftindtion.

•The religion of the IfUnds is that of the

Kirk of Scotland. The gentlemen with

whom 1 converfed are all inclined to the

R EngKJb

A JOURNEY TO THE

Englijh liturgy; butrthey are obliged to rnai&tain the eftablifhed Minifter, and the country is too poor to afford payment to another, who muft live wholly on the con- tribution of his audience.

They therefore all attend the worftiip of the Kirk, as often as a vifit from their Mi- nifter, or the practicability of travelling gives them opportunity ; nor have they any reafon to complain of infufficient paftors ; for I faw not one in the Iflands, whom I had reafon to think either deficient in learning, or irregular in life ; but found feveral with whom I could not converfe without wifh- ing, as my refpecT: increafed, that they had not been Prefbyterians.

The ancient rigour of puritanifm is now very much relaxed, though all are not yet (equally 'enlightened. I fometimes met with prejudices fufficiently malignant, but they were prejudices of ignorance. The

Minifters

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 243

Minifters in the Iflands had attained fuch knowledge as may juftly be admired in men, who have no motive to ftudy, but generous curiofity, or, what is ftill better, deiire of ufefulnefs ; with fuch politenefs as fo narrow a circle of converfe could not have fupplied, but to minds naturally dif- pofed to elegance.

Reafon and truth will prevail at laft. The moft learned of the Scottifh Do&ors would now gladly admit a form of prayer, if the people would endure it. The zeal or rage of congregations has its different degrees. In fome parifhes the Lord's Prayer is fuffered : in others it is ftill reje£ted as a form ; and he that fhould make it part of his fupplication would be fufpe£ted of here- tical pravity.

The principle upon which extemporary

prayer was originally introduced, is no

longer admitted. The Minifter formerly,

R 2 in

H4 A JOURNEY TO THE

in the effufion of his prayer, expeded im- mediate, and perhaps perceptible infpira- tion, and therefore thought it his duty not to think before what he fhould fay. It is now univerfally confefled, that men pray as they fpeak on other occafions, ac- cording to the general meafure of their abilities and attainments. Whatever each may think of a form prefcribed by ano- ther, he cannot but believe that he can himfelf compofe by ftudy and meditation a better prayer than will rife in his mind at a fudden call ; and if he has any hope of fupernatural help, why may he not as well receive it when he writes as when he fpeaks ?

In the variety of mental powers, fome muft perform extemporary prayer with much imperfection; and in the eagernefs and rafhnefs of contradictory opinions, if public liturgy be left to the pri- vate judgment of every Minifter, the

congre-

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 245

congregation may often be offended or mifled.

There is in Scotland, as among ourfelves, a reftlefs fufpicion of popifli machinations, and a clamour of numerous converts to the Romifh religion. The report is, I believe, in both parts of the Ifland equally falfe. The Romifli religion is profefled only in Egg and Cannay two fmali iflands, into which the Reformation never made its way. If any miffionaries are bufy in the Highlands, their zeal entitles them to re- fpect, even from thofe who cannot think favourably of their doctrine.

The political tenets of the Wanders I was not curious to inveftigate, and they were not eager to obtrude. Their conver- fation is decent and inoffenfive. They dif- dain to drink for their principles, and there is no difaffecYion at their tables. I never heard a health offered by a Highlander that R 3 might

246 A JOURNEY TO THE

might not have circulated with propriety within the precincts of the King's palace.

Legal government has yet fomething of novelty to which they cannot perfectly con- form. The ancient fpirit that appealed only to the fword, is yet among them. The tenant of Scalpa^ an ifland belonging to Macdonald, took no care to bring his rent •, when the landlord talked of exacting pay- ment, he declared his refolution to keep his ground, and drive all intruders from the Ifland, and continued to feed his cattle as on his own land, till it became neceflary for the Sheriff to diflodge him by violence.

The various kinds of fuperftition "which prevailed here, as in all other regions of Ignorance, are by the diligence of the Mi- nifters almoft extirpated.

Q£ Browny, mentioned by Martin, no- thing has been heard for many years.

Browny

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 247

Browny was a fturdy Fairy; who, if he was fed, and kindly treated, would, as they faid, do a great deal of work. They now pay him no wages, and are content to la- bour for themfelves.

In Troda, within thefe three-and-thirty years, milk was put every Saturday for Greogacb, or the Old Man ivitb the Long Beard. Whether Greogach was courted as kind, or dreaded as terrible, whether they meant, by giving him the milk, to obtain gopd, or avert evil, I was not in- formed. The Minifter is now living by -whom the practice was abolimed.

They have ftill among them a great number of charms for the cure of different difeafes; they are all invocations, perhaps tranfmitted to them from the times of po- pery, which increafing knowledge will bring into difufe.

They have opinions, which cannot be

ranked with fu perdition, becaufe they re-

R 4 gard

248 A JOURNfif% TO THE

gard only natural effects. They exped better crops of grain, by fowing their feed in the moon's increafe. The moon has great influence in vulgar philofophy. In my memory it was a precept annually given in one of the Englijh Almanacks, to kill hogs when the moon was increafing^ and the bacon 'would prove the better in boil- ing.

We fhould have had little claim to the praife of curiofity, if we had not endeavour- ed with particular attention to examine the queftion of the Second Sight. Of an opi- nion received for centuries by a whole na- tion, and fuppofed to be confirmed through its whole defcent, by a feries of fucceffive fads, it is defirable that the truth fhould be eftablifhed, or the fallacy detected.

The Second Sight is an impreffion made either by the mind upon the eye, or by the eye upon the mind, by which things diftant or future are perceived, and feen as if they

were

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.

were prefent. A man on a journey far from home falls from his horfe, another, who is perhaps at work about the houfe, fees him bleeding on the ground, com- monly with a landfcape of the place where the accident befalls him. Another feer, driving home his cattle, or wandering in idlenefs, or mufing in the funfhine, is fuddenly furprifed by the appearance of a bridal ceremony, or funeral proceffion, and counts the mourners or attendants, of whom, if he knows them, he relates the names, if he knows them not, he can defcribe the drefles. Things diftant are feen at the inftant when they happen. Of things future I know not that there is any rule for determining the time between the Sight and the event.

This receptive faculty, for power it can- not be called, is neither voluntary nor conftant. The appearances have no de^ pendence upon choice: they cannot be

fummoned,

250 A JOURNEY TO THE

fummoned, detained, or recalled. The impreffiqn is fudden, and the effect often painful.

By the term Second Sight, feems to be meant a mode of feeing, fuperadded to that which Nature generally beftows, In the Earfe it is called Taifch ; which fignifies likewife a fpedtre, or a vifion. I know not, nor is it likely that the Highlanders ever examined, whether by Taifch) ufed for Second Sight ', they mean the power of feeing, or the thing feen.

I do not find it to be true, as it is re* ported, that to the Second Sight nothing is prefented but phantoms of evil. Good feems to have the fame proportion in thofe vifionary fcenes, as it obtains in real life : almoft all remarkable events have evil for their bafis ; and are either miferies incur- red, or miferies efcaped. Our fenfe is fo much ftronger of what we fuffer, than of

what

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 251

what we enjoy, that the ideas of pain pre- dominate in almoft every mind. What is recolledion but a revival of vexations, or hiftory but a record of wars, treafons, and calamities ? Death, which is confidered as the greater!: evil, happens to all. The greateft good, be it what it will, is the lot but of a part.

That they fhould often fee death is to be expe&ed ; becaufe death is an event fre- quent and important. But they fee like- wife more pleafing incidents. A gentle- man told me, that when he had once gone far from his own (Hand, one of his labour- ing fervants predicted his return, and de- fcribed the livery of his attendant, which he had never worn at home; and which had been, without any previous defign, occafionally given him.

Gurdefire of information was keen, and our inquiry frequent. Mr. fiofwelPs frank-

nefs

A JOURNEY TO THE

nefs and gaiety made every body commu- nicative ; and we heard many tales of thefe airy {hows, with more or lefs evidence and diftindnefs.

It is the common talk of the Lowland Scots, that the notion of the Second Sight is wearing away with other fuperftitions ; and that its reality is no longer fuppofed, but by the grofleft people. How far its prevalence ever extended, or what ground it has loft, I know not. The Iflanders of all degrees, whether of rank or underftand-* ing, univerfally admit it, except the Mini- fters, who univerfally deny it, and are fufpeded to deny it, in confequence of a fyftem, againft conviction. One of them honeftly told me, that he came to Sky with a refolution not to believe it.

Strong reafons for incredulity will readily occur. This faculty of feeing things out of fight is local, and commonly ufelefs. It

is

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 253

is a breach of the common order of things, without any vifible reafon or perceptible benefit. It is afcribed only to a people very little enlightened ; and among them, for the moft part, to the mean and. the ig- norant.

To the confidence of thefe obje&ions it may be replied, that by prefuming to de- termine what is fit, and what is beneficial, they prefuppofe more knowledge of the univerfal fyftem than man has attained ; and therefore depend upon principles too complicated and extenfive for our com- prehenfion; and that there can be no fecu- rity in the confequence, when the premifes are not underftood; that the Second Sight is only wonderful becaufe it is rare, for confidered in itfelf, it involves no more difficulty than dreams, or perhaps than the regular exercife of the cogitative faculty ; that a general opinion of communicative impulfes, or vifionary reprefentations, has-

prevailed

A JOURNEY TO THE

prevailed in all ages and all nations ; that particular inftances have been given, with fuch evidence, as neither Bacon nor Bayle has been able to refift; -that fudden im- preflions, which the event has verified* have been felt by more than own or publifii them ; that the Second Sight of the He- brides implies only the local frequency of a power, which is no where totally unknown $ and that where we are unable to decide by antecedent reafon, we muft be content to yield to the force of teftirnony.

By pretenfion to Second Sight, no profit was ever fought or gained. It is an invo- luntary affedion, in which neither hope nor fear are known to have any part* Thofe who profefs to feel it, do not boaft of it as a privilege, nor are confidered by others as advantageoufly diftinguifhed* They have no temptation to feign'j and their hearers have no motive to encourage the impofture.

5 To

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 255

To talk with any of thefe feers is not eafy. There is one living in Sky, with whom we would have gladly converted; but he was very grofs and ignorant, and knew no Engljh. The proportion in thefe countries of the poor to the rich is fuch, that if we fuppofe the quality to be acci- dental, it can very rarely happen to a man of education ; and yet on fuch men it has fometimes fallen. There is now a Second Sighted gentleman in the Highlands, who complains of the terrors to which he is expofed.

The forefight of the Seers is not always prefcience : they are inrprefied with images, of which the event only fhews them the meaning. They tell what they have feen to others, who are at that time not more knowing than themfelves, but may be-* come at laft very adequate witnefles, by corn-paring the narrative v/ith its verifi- cation.

To

A JOURNEY TO TFl

To collecT: fufficient tefti monies for the fatisfaction of the publick, or of ourfelves* would have required more time than we could beftow* There is, againft it, the feeming analogy of things confufedly feen, and little underftood ; and for it, the indiftinft cry of national perfuafion, which may be perhaps refolved at laft into preju- dice and tradition. I never could advance my curiofity to conviction ; but came away at laft only willing to believe.

As there fubfifts no longer in the Iflanda much of that peculiar and difcriminative form of life, of which the idea had delighted our imagination, we were willing to liften to fuch accounts of paft times as would be given us. But we foon found what memo- rials were to be expected from an illiterate people, whofe whole time is a feries of dif- trefs 5 where every morning is labour- ing with expedients for the evening j and wjiere all mental pains or pleafure arofe

from

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 257

from the dread of winter, the expeda- tion of fpring, the caprices of their Chiefs, and the motions of the neighbouring Clane ; where there was neither fhame from igno- rance, nor pride in knowledge; neither curiofity to inquire, nor vanity to commu- nicate*

The Chiefs indeed were exempt from urgent penury, and daily difficulties j and in their houfes were preferved what ac- counts remained of paft ages. But the Chiefs were fometimes ignorant and care- lefs, and fometimes kept bufy by turbu- lence and contention ; and one generation of ignorance effaces the whole feries of unwrit- ten hiftory. Books are faithful repofitories, which may be a while negleded or forgot- ten ; but when they are opened again, will again impart their inftruclion : me- mory, once interrupted, is rtot to be re- called. Written learning is a fixed lumi- nary, which, after the cloud that had hid* S dera

S5* A JOURNEY TO THE

den it has paft away, is again bright in its proper ftation. Tradition is but a meteor, which, if once it falls, cannot be rekindled.

It feems to be univerfally fuppofed, that much of the local hiftory was preferved by the Bards, of whom one is faid to have been retained by every great family. After thefe Bards were fome of my firft inquiries ; and I received fuch anfwers as, for a while, made me pleafe myfelf with my increafe of knowledge ; for I had not then learned how to eftimate the narration of a High- lander.

They faid that a great family had a Bard and a Senachi^ who were the poet and hifto- rian of the houfe; and an old gentleman told me that he remembered one of each. Here was a dawn of intelligence. Of men that had lived within memory, fome certain knowledge might - be attained. Though the office had ceafed, its effects

might

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 259

might continue; the poems might be found though there was no poet.

Another converfation indeed informed me, that the fame man was both Bard and Senachi. This variation difcouraged me 5 but as the practice might be different in different times, or at the fame time in dif*- ferent families, there was yet no reafon for fuppofing that I mufl neceffarily fit down in total ignorance*

Soon after I was told by a gentleman who is generally acknowledged the greatefl matter of Hebridian antiquities, that there had indeed once been both Bards and Sena- chies ; and that Senachi fignified the man of talk^ or of converfation ; but that neither Bard nor Senachi had exifted for fome cen- turies. I have no reafon to fuppofe it ex- actly known at what time the cuftom ceafed, nor did it probably ceafe in all houfes at once. But whenever the practice 82 of

26'o A JOURNEY TO THE

of recitation was difufed, the works, whe- ther poetical or hiftorical, perifhed with the authors ; for in thofe times nothing had been written in the Earfe language.

Whether the Man of talk was a hiftorianj whofe office was to tell truth, or a ftory- teller, like thofe which were in the laft century, and perhaps are now among the Irifh, whofe trade was only to amufe, it now would be vain to inquire.

Mod of the domeftick offices were, I be- lieve, hereditary ; and probably the laureat of a Clan was always the fon of the laft laureat. The hiftory of the race could no otherwife be communicated, or retained ; but what genius could be expected in a poet by inheritance ?

The nation was wholly illiterate. Nei- ther Bards norSenachies could write or read; but if they were ignorant, there was ao

danger

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 261

danger of detection ; they were believed by thofe whofe vanity they flattered.

The recital of genealogies, which has been confidered as very efficacious to the prefervation of a true feries of anceftry, was anciently made, when the heir of the family came to manly age. This pradice has never fubfifted within time of memory, nor was much credit due to fuch rehearfers, who might obtrude fictitious pedigrees, either to pleafe their mafters, or to hide the deficiency of their own memories.

Where the Chiefs of the Highlands have found the hiftories of their defcent is dif- ficult to tell ; for no Earfe genealogy was ever written. In general this only is evi- dent, that the principal houfeof a clan muft be very ancient, and that thofe muft have lived long in a place, of whom it is not Jsnown when they came thither.

S 3 Thus

262 A JOURNEY TO THE

Thus hopelefs are all attempts to find any traces of Highland learning. Nor are their primitive cuftoms and ancient manner of life otherwife than very faintly and Uncertainly remembered by the prefent race.

The peculiarities which ftrike the native pf a commercial country, proceeded in a great meafure from the want of money. TQ the fervants and dependants that were not domefticks, and if an eftimate be made from the capacity of any of their old houfes which I have feen, their domefticks could have been but few, were appropriated cer- tain portions of land for their fupport. Macdonald has a piece of ground yet, called the Bards or Senachies field. When a beef was killed for the hqufe, particular parts were claimed as fees by the feveral officers, or workmen. What was the right of each I have not learned. The head belonged to fhe frnith, and the udder of a cow to the

piper :

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 263

piper; the weaver had likewife his parti- cular part ; and fo many pieces followed thefe prefcriptive claims, that the Laird's was at laft but little.

The payment of rent in kind has been fo long difufed in England, that it is totally forgotten. It was pradifed very lately in the Hebrides^ and probably flill continues, not only in St. Kilda^ where money is not yet known, but in others of the fmaller and remoter Iflands. It were perhaps to be defired, that no change in this parti- cular fliould have been made. When the Laird could only eat the produce of his lands, he was under the neceffity of refid- ing upon them ; and when the tenant could not convert his flock into more portable riches, he could never be tempted away from his farm, from the only place where he could be wealthy. Money confounds fubordination, by overpowering the diftinc- tions of rank and birth, and weakens au- S 4 thority

A JOURNEY TO THE

thority by fupplying power of refiftance, or expedients for efcape. The feudal fyftem is formed for a nation employed in agriculture, and has never long kept its Jiold where gold and filver have become common.

Their arms were anciently the Claymore, or great two-handed fword, and afterwards the two-edged fword and target, or buckler, which was fuftained on the left arm. In the midft of the target, which was made of wood, covered with leather, and fludded with nails, a llender lance, about two feet long, was fometimes fixed ; it was heavy and cumberous, and accordingly has for fome time paft been gradually laid afide. Very few targets were at Culloden. The dirk, or broad dagger, I am afraid, was of more ufe in private quarrels than in battles. The Lochaber-ax is only a flight alteration pf the old Ewglijh bill.

After

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 265

After all that has been faid of the force and terrour of the Highland fword, I could not find that the art of defence was any part of common education. The gentle- men were perhaps fometimes fkilful gla- diators, but the common men had no other powers than thofe of violence and courage. Yet it is well known, that the onfet of the Highlanders was very formidable. As an army cannot confift of philofophers, a panick is eafily excited by any unwonted mode of annoyance. New dangers are natu- rally magnified ; and men accuftomed only to exchange bullets at a diftance, and rather to hear their enemies than fee them, are difcouraged and amazed when they find themfelves encountered hand to hand, and catch the gleam of fleel flafliing in their faces.

The Highland weapons gave opportu- nity for many exertions of perfonal cou- rage, and fometimes for fingle combats in

the

a66 A JOURNEY TO THE

the field; like thofe which occur fa fre- \quently in fabulous wars. At Falkirk, a gentleman now living, was, [I fuppofe after the retreat of the King's troops, engaged at a diftance from the reft with an Irifh dragoon. They were both fkilful fwordf- men, and the conteft was not eafily de- cided : the dragoon at laft had the advan- tage, and the Highlander called for quarter » but quarter was refufed him, and the fight continued till he was reduced to defend himfelf upon his knee. At that inftant one of the Macleods came to his refcue ; who, as it is faid, offered quarter to the dragoon, but he thought himfelf obliged to reject •what he had before refufed, and, as battle gives little time to deliberate, was imme- diately killed.

'Funerals were formerly folemnized by calling multitudes together, and entertain- ing them at great expence. This emulation of ufelefs coft has been for fome time difcou-

raged,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 267

raged, and at laft in the Ifle of Sky is almoft fupprefled. ,

Of the Earfe language, as I underftand nothing, I cannot fay more than I have been told. It is the rude fpeech of a barbarous people, who had few thoughts to exprefs, and were content, as they conceived grofsly, to be grofsly underftood. After what has been lately talked of Highland Bards, and Highland genius, many will ftartle when they are told, that the Earfe never was a written language ; that there is not in the world an Earfe manufcript a hundred years old ; and that the founds of the Highlanders were never exprefled by let- ters, till fome little books of piety were tranflated, and a metrical verfion of the Pfalms was made by the Synod of Argyle. Whoever therefore now writes in this lan- guage, fpells according to his own percep- tion of the found, and his own idea of the

power

268 A JOURNEY TO THE

power of the letters. The Weljh and the Irijh are cultivated tongues. The Welfh, two hundred years ago, infulted their Eug- lijh neighbours for the inftability of their Orthography 5 while the Earfe merely float- ed in the breath of the people, and could therefore receive little improvement.

When a language begins to teem with books, it is tending to refinement; as thofe who undertake to teach others muft have undergone fome labour in improving them- felves, they fet a proportionate value on their own thoughts, and wifh to enforce them by efficacious expreffions; fpeech becomes embodied and permanent; diffe- rent modes and phrafes are compared, and the beft obtains an eftablifhment. By de- grees one age improves upon another. Exadnefs is firft obtained, and afterwards elegance. But di&ion, merely vocal, is always in its childhood. As no man leaves

his

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 269

his eloquence behind him, the new gene- rations have all to learn. There may pofiibly be books without a poliQied lan- guage, but there can be no polifhed lan- guage without books.

That the Bards could not read more than the reft of their countrymen, it is reafon- able to fuppofe j becaufe, if they had read, they could probably have written ; and how high their compofitions may reafon- ably be rated, an inquirer may beft judge by confidering what ftores of imagery, what principles of ratiocination, what com- prehenfion of knowledge, and what delicacy of elocution he has known any man at- tain who cannot read. The ilate of the Bards was yet more hopelefs. He that cannot read, may now converfe with thofe that can ; but the Bard was a barbarian among barbarians, who, knowing nothing himfelf, lived with others that knew no more.

There

270 A JOURNEY TO THE

There has lately been in the Iflands ond of thefe illiterate poets, *who hearing the Bible read at church, is faid to have turned the facred hiftory into verfe. I heard part of a dialogue, compofed by him, tranflated by a young lady in Mull, and thought it had more meaning than I expe&ed from a man totally uneducated; but he had fome opportunities of knowledge; he lived among a learned people. After all that has been done for the inftrudion of the Highlanders, the antipathy between their language and literature flill continues ; and no man that has learned only Earfe is, at this time, able to read.

The Earfe has many dialects, and the words ufed in fome Iflands are not always known in others. In literate na* tions, though the pronunciation, and fome- times the words of common fpeech may differ, as now in England, compared with the South of Scotland^ yet there is a written 9 didtion,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 271

di&ion, which pervades all dialects, and is underftood in every province. But where the whole language is colloquial, he that has only one part, never gets the reft, as he cannot get it but by change of refidence.

In an unwritten fpeech, nothing that is not very fhort is tranfmitted from one generation to another. Few have opportu- nities of hearing a long compofition often enough to learn it, or have inclination to repeat it fo often as is neceflary to retain it; and what is once forgotten is loft for ever. I believe there cannot be recovered, in the whole Earfe language, five hundred lines of which there is any evidence to prove them a hundred years old. Yet I hear that the father of Offian boafts of two chefts more of ancient poetry, which he fup- prefies, becaufe they are too good for the Englijh.

He

A JOURNEY TO THE

He that goes into the Highlands with a mind naturally acquiefcent, and a credu- lity eager for wonders, may come back with an opinion very different from mine ; for the inhabitants knowing the ignorance of all ftrangers in their language and anti- quities, perhaps are not very fcrupulous adherents to truth; yet I do not fay that they deliberately fpeak ftudied falfehood, or have a fettled purpofe to deceive. They have inquired and confidered little, and do not always feel their own ignorance. They are not much accuftomed to be interrogated by others ; and feem never to have thought upon interrogating themfelves ; fo that if they do not know what they tell to be true, they likewife do not diflinctly perceive it to be falfe.

Mr. Bofwell was very diligent in his in- quiries ; and the refult of his inveftigations was, that the anfwer to the fecond queftiori

was

WESTERN ISLANDS, £c. 273

was commonly fuch as nullified the anfwer to the firft.

We were a while told, that they had an old tranflation of the fcriptures ; and told it till it would appear obftinacy to inquire again. Yet by continued accumulation of queftions we found, that the tranflatioa meant, if any meaning there were, wa$ nothing elfe than the Irijh Bible.

We heard of manufcripts that were, or that had been in the hands of fomebody's father, or grandfather; but at laft we had no reafon to believe they were other than Irifh. Martin mentions Irifh, but never any Earfe manufcripts, to be found in the Iflands in his time.

I fuppofe my opinion of the poems of Offian is already difcovered. I believe they never exifted in any other form than that which we have feen. The editor, or au- thor, never could {hew the original ; nor can it be fhewa by any other j to revenge T reafonable

274 A JOURNEY TO THE

reafonable incredulity, by refufing evi- dence, is a degree of inference, with which the world is not yet acquainted ; and ftub- born audacity is the laft refuge of guilt. It would be eafy to fhew it if he had it; but whence could it be had ? It is too long to be remembered, and the language formerly had nothing written. He has doubtlefs in- ferted names that circulate in popular (lories, /and may have tranflated fome wander- ing ballads, if any can be found ; and the names, and fome of the images being recol- lected, make an inaccurate auditor imagine, by the help of Caledonian bigotry, that he has formerly heard the whole.

I afked a very learned Minifter in Sky, who had ufed all arts to make me be- lieve the genuinenefs of the book, whe- ther at !aft he believed it himfelf ? but he would not anfwer. He wifhed me to be deceived, for the honour of his country ; but would not directly and formally de- ceive me. Yet has this man's teftimony

been

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 275

been publickly produced, as of one that held Fingal to be the work of Offian.

It is faid, that fome men of integrity profefs to have heard parts of it, but they all heard them when they were boys ; and it never was faid that any of them could recite fix lines. They remember names, and perhaps fome proverbial fentiments; and, having no diftirid ideas, coin a refem- blance without an original. The perfua- fion of the Scots, however, is far from univerfal ; and in a queftion fo capable of proof, why fhould doubt be fuffered to con- tinue ? The editor has been heard to fay, that part of the poem was received by him, in the Saxon character. He has then found, by fome peculiar fortune, an un- written language, written in a character which the natives probably never beheld.

I have yet fuppofed no impoflure but in

the publifher ; yet I am far from certainty,

that fome tranflatkms have not been lately

T 2 made,

276 A JOURNEY TO THE

made, that may now be obtruded as parts of the original work. Credulity on one part is a ftrong temptation to deceit on the other, efpecially to deceit of which no per- fonal injury is the confequence, and which flatters the author with his own ingenuity. The Scots have fomething to plead for their eafy reception of an improbable fi&ion : they are feduced by their fondnefs for their fuppofed ancestors. A Scotchman muft be a very fturdy moralift, who does not love Scotland better than truth; he will always love it better than inquiry; and if fatfehood flatters his vanity, will not be very diligent to detect it. Neither ought the Englifo to be much influenced by Scotch authority; for of the paft and prefent ftate of the whole Earfe nation, the Lowlanders are at leaft as ignorant ,as oarfelves. To be ignorant is painful ; but it is dangerous to quiet our uneafinefs by the delufive opiate, of faafty perfuafion.

But

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 277

But this is the age in which thofe who could not read, have been fuppofed to write; in which the giants of antiquated romance have been exhibited as realities. If we know little of the ancient High- landers, let us not fill the vacuity with Offian. If we have not fearched the Magel- lanick regions, let us however forbear to people them with Patagont.

Having waited fome days at Armidel% we were flattered at laft with a wind that promifed to convey us to Mull. We went on board a boat that was taking in kelp, and left the lile of Skyt behind us. We were doomed to experience, like others, the danger of tr lifting to the wind, which blew againft us, in a (hort time, with fuch violence, that we, being no feafoned failors, were willing to call it a tempefrp I was fea-fick and lay down, Mr. Bofivell kept the deck. The mafter knew not well whither to go; and our difficulties might perhaps have filled a very patheticls page, T 3 had

478 A JOURNEY TO THE

had not Mr. Maclean of CW, who, with every other qualification which infular life requires, is a very active and fkilful ma- riner, piloted us fafe into his own harbour.

COL.

In the morning we found ourfelve-s under the Me of Col, where we landed ; and pafled the firft day and night with Cap- tain Maclean, a gentleman who has lived fome time in the Eaft Indies ; but having dethroned no Nabob, is not too rich to fet- tle in his own country.

Next day the wind was fair, and we might have had an eafy paflage to Mull\ but having, contrarily to our own intention, landed upon a new Ifland, we would not leave it wholly unexamined. We there- fore fuffered the veflel to depart without us, and trufted the fides for another wind.

Mr. Maclean of Col, having a very nume-

4. A»

"l f. rous family, has, for fome time paft,

refided

•'.-

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 279

rcfided at Aberdeen, that he may fuperin- tend their education, and leaves the young gentleman, our friend, to govern his do- minions, with the full power of a High- land Chief. By the abfence of the Laird's family, our entertainment was made more difficult, becaufe the houfe was in a great degree disfurnifhed ; but young Col's kind- nefs and activity fupplied all defeds, and procured us more than fufficient accommo- dation.

Here I firft mounted a little Highland fieed ; and if there had been many fpe&a- tors, fhould have been fomewhat afhamed of my figure in the march. The horfes of the Iflands, as of other barren countries, are very low: they are indeed mufculous and ftrong, beyond what their fize gives reafon for expeding; but a bulky man upon one of their backs makes a very dif- proportionate appearance.

T 4 From

*8o A JOURNEY TO THE

"From the habitation of Captain Maclean, we went to Griffipol^ but called by the way on Mr. Hc5ior Maclean, the Minifter of Colj whom we found in a hut, that is, a houfe of only one floor, but with win- dows and chimney, and not inelegantly furniihed. Mr. Maclean has the reputa- tion of great learning : he is feventy-feven years old, but not infirm, with a look of venerable dignity, excelling what I re- member in any other man.

His converfation was not unfuitable to his appearance. J loft fome of his good- will, by treating a heretical writer with more regard than, in his opinion, a here- tick could deferve. I honoured his ortho- doxy, and did not much cenfure his afpe- rity. A man who has fettled his opinions, does not love to have the tranquillity of his conviction difturbed ; and at feventy-feven it is time to be in earneft.

Men-

WESTERN ISLANDS, ;&c. sSt

Mention was made of the Earfe tranfia- tion of the New Teftament, which has been, lately published, and of which the learned Mr. M&cqueen of Sky fpoke with commen- dation ; but Mr. Maclean faid he did not ufe it, becaufe he could make the text more intelligible to his auditors by an extempo- rary verfion. From this I inferred, that the language of the tranflation was not the language of the Ifle of CoL

He has no publlck edifice for the exer> cife of his miniftry ; and can officiate to no greater number, than a room can contain ; and the room of a hut is not very large. This is all the opportunity of worfliip that is now granted to the inhabitants of the Ifland, fome of whom muft travel thither perhaps ten miles. Two chapels were ere&ed by their anceftors, of which I faw the Skeletons, which now ftand faithful witneffes of the triumph of Reformation.

The

182 A JOURNEY TO THE

The want of churches is not the only impediment to piety : there is likewife a want of Minifters. A parifh often con- tains more Iflands than one ; and each Ifland can have the Minifter only in its own turn. At Raafa they had, I think, a right to fervice only every third Sunday. All the provifion made by the prefent eccle- fiaftical conftitution, for the inhabitants of about a hundred fquare miles, is a prayer and fermon in a little room, once in three weeks : and even this parfimonious diftri- bution is at the mercy of the weather : and in thofe Iflands where the Minifler does not refide, it is impoflible to tell how many weeks or months may pafs without any publick exercife of religion.

GRISSIPOL IN COL.

After a fhort converfation with Mr. Mac* lean^ we went on to Grijipol, a houfe an<J farm tenanted by Mr. Macfweytiy where I

faw

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 283

faw more of the ancient life of a High- lander, than I had yet found. Mrs. Mac- fweyn could fpeak no EngKfa and had never feen any other places than the Iflands of Sky, Mul/, and Col: but fhe was hofpi- table and good-humoured, and fpread her table with fufficient liberality. We found tea here, as in every other place, but our fpoons were of horn.

The houfe of Grijfipol ft and s by a brook very clear and quick ; which is, I fuppofe, one of the moft copious ftreams in the Ifland. This place was the fcene of an action, much celebrated in the traditional hiftory of Col, but which probably no two relaters will tell alike.

Some time, in the obfcure ages, Macneil of Earra married the Lady Maclean , who had the Ifle of Col for her jointure. Whe- ther Macneil detained Co/9 when the widow was dead, or whether fhe lived fo

long

A JOURNEY TO THE

long as to make her heirs impatient, is per- haps not now known. The younger fon, called John Gerves, or John the Giant > a man of great ftrength, who was then in Ireland* either for fafety; or for educa- tion, dreamed of recovering his inherit- ance ; and getting fome adventurers toge- ther, which in thofe unfettled times was not hard to do, invaded Col. He was driven away, but was not difcouraged, and col- lecting new followers, in three years came again with fifty men. In his way he flopped at Artormijh in Morvern, where his uncle was pfifoner to Macleod, and was then with his enemies in a tent. Maclean took with him only one fervanr, whom he ordered to flay at the outfide ; and where he fhould fee the tent prefled outwards, to flrike with his dirk ; it being the intention of Maclean, as any man provoked him, to lay hands upon him, and pufli him back. He entered the tent alone, with his Locba- bar-axe in his hand, and flruck fuch terror

intq

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.

into the whole affembly, that they difmiiTed his uncle.

When he landed at Col, he fa w the fen* tinel, who kept watch towards the fea, running off to Griffipol^ ,to give Macneil^ who was there with a hundred and twenty men, an account of the invafion. He told Macgil/y one of his followers, that if he intercepted that dangerous intelligence, by catching the courier, he would give him certain lands in Mull. Upon this pro- mife, Macgill purfued the meflenger, and either killed, or flopped him; and his pofterity, till very lately, held the lands in Mull.

The alarm being thus prevented, he came unexpectedly upon MacneiL Chiefs were in thofe days never wholly unprovided for an enemy. A fight enfued, in which one of their followers is faid to have given an extraordinary proof of activity, by bound- ing-

286 A JOURNEY TO THE

ing backwards over the brook of Griffipol. Macneil being killed, and many of his clan deftroyed, Maclean took pofleffion of the Ifland, which the Macneils attempted to conquer by another invafion, but were de- feated and repulfed.

Maclean, in his turn, invaded the eftate of the Macneils > took the caftle of Brecacig, and conquered the Ifle of Barra, which he held for feven years, and then reftored it to the heirs.

CASTLE OF COL.

From Griffipol, Mr. Maclean conducted us to his father's feat ; a neat new houfe, eredted near the old caftle, I think, by the laft proprietor. Here we were allowed to take our ftation, and lived very commo- dioufly, while we waited for moderate weather and a fair wind, which we did not fo foon obtain, but we had time to get

fome

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 287

fome information of the prefent (late of Col, partly by inquiry, and partly by occa- fional excurfions.

Col is computed to be thirteen miles ia length, and three in breadth. Both the ends are the property of the Duke of Ar- gyle^ but the middle belongs to Maclean, who is called Col, as the only Laird.

Col is not properly rocky ; it is rather one continued rock, of a furface much di- ver fified with protuberances, and covered with a thin layer of earth, which is often broken, and difcovers'the ftone. Such a foil is not for plants that firike deep roots ; and perhaps in the whole Ifland nothing has ever yet grown to the height of a table. The uncultivated parts are clothed with heath, among which induftry has inter- fperfed fpots of grafs and corn ; but no attempt has yet been made to raife a tree. Young Col9 who has a very laudable defire

of

288 A JOURNEY TO THE

of improving his patrimony, purpofes fome time to plant an orchard ; which, if it be flickered by a wall, may perhaps fucceed. Jle has introduced the culture of turnips, /of which he has a field, where the whole work was performed by his own hand. His intention is to provide food for his cattle in the winter. This innovation was con- fidered by Mr. Macfweyn as the idle pro- j eel: of a young head, heated with Englijh fancies ; but he has now found that tur- nips will really grow, and that hungry fheep and cows will really eat them.

By fuch acquifitions as thefe, the He- brides may in time rife above their annual diftrefs. Wherever heath will grow, there is reafon to think fomething better may draw nourifhment ; and by trying the pro- duction of oilier places, plants will be found fuitable to every foil.

Col has many lochs, fome of which have

trouts and eels, and others have never yet

13 been

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 289

been flocked ; another proof of the negli- gence of the Iflanders, who might take fifh in the inland waters, when they can- not go to fea.

Their quadrupeds are horfes, cows, fheep, and goats. They have neither deer, hares, nor rabbits. They have no vermin, except rats, which have been lately brought thi- ther by fea, as to other places ; and are free from ferpents, frogs, and toads.

The hdrveft in Coly and in Lewis, is ripe fooner than in Skyy and the winter in Col is never cold, but very tempeftuous. I know not that I ever heard the wind fo loud in any other place ; and Mr. Bofwell obferved, that its noife was all its own, for there were no trees to increafe it.

Noife is not the worft effed of the tern-

pefts ; for they have thrown the fand from

the fliore over a confiderable part of the

U land;

$90 A JOURNEY TO THE

land ; and it is faid ftill to encroach and deftroy more and more pafture ; but I am not of opinion, that by any furveys or land-marks, its limits have been ever fixed, or its progreiEon afcertained. If one man has confidence enough to fay, that it ad- vances, nobody can bring any proof to fupport him in denying it. The reafon why it is not fpread to a greater extent, feems to be, that the wind and rain come almoft together, and that it is made clofe and heavy by the wet before the ftorms can put it in motion. So thick is the bed, and fo fmall the particles, that if a traveller fhould be caught by a fudden guft in dry weather, he would find it very difficult to efcape with life.

For natural curiofities, I was fhown only two great mafles of flone, which lie loofe upon the ground ; one on the top of a hill, and the other at a fmall diftance from the bottom. They certainly were never put 13 into

WESTERN ISLANDS, &e. 291

into their prefent places by human ftrength or {kill ; and though an earthquake might have broken off the lower ftone, and rolled it into the valley, no account can be given of the other, which lies on the hill, unlefs, which I forgot to examine, there be ftili near it fome higher rock, from which it might be torn. All nations have a tra- dition, that their earlieft anceftors were giants, and thefe ftones are faid to have been thrown up and down by a giant and his miftrefs. There are fo many more im- portant things, of which human knowledge can give no account, that it may be for- given us, if we fpeculate no longer on two ftones in CoL

This Ifland is very populous. About nine-and-twenty years ago, the fencible men of Col were reckoned one hundred and forty, which is the fixth of eight hundred and forty ; and probably fome contrived to be left out of the lift. The Minifter told us, U 2 that

A JOURNEY TO THE

that a few years ago the inhabitants were eight hundred, between the ages of feven and of feventy. Round numbers are fel- dom exact. But in this cafe the authority is good, and the errour likely to be little. If to the eight hundred be added what the laws of computation require, they will be increafed to at leaft a thoufand ; arid if the dimenfions of the country have been accu- rately related, every mile maintains more than twenty-five.

This proportion of habitation is greater than the appearance of the country feems to admit ; for wherever the eye wanders, it feems much wafte and little cultivation. I am more inclined to extend the land, of which no meafure has ever been taken, than to diminifti the people, who have been really numbered. Let it be fuppofed, that a computed mile contains a mile and a half, as was commonly found true in the men- furation of the Englifh roads^ and we fhall

then

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.

then allot nearly twelve to a mile, which agrees much better with ocular obferva- tion.

Here as in Sky and other Iflands, are the Laird, the Tackfmen, and the under- tenants.

Mr. Maclean, the Laird, has very ex- tenfive poffeffions, being proprietor, not only of far the greater part of Cb/, but of the extenfive Ifland of Rumy and a very confiderable territory in Mull.

Rum is one of the larger Iflands, almoft fquare, and therefore of great capacity in proportion to its fides. By the ufual method of eftimating computed extent, it may con- tain more than a hundred and twenty fquare miles.

It originally belonged to Clanrcnald, and

was purchafed by Col ; who, in fome dif-

U 3 pute

294 A JOURNEY TO THE

pute about the bargain, made Clanronald prifoner, and kept him nine months in con- finement. Its owner reprefents it as moun- tainous, rugged, and barren. In the hills there are red deer. The horfes are very fmall, but of a breed eminent for beauty. Col, not long ago, bought one of them from a tenant ; who told him, that as he •was of a jfhape uncommonly elegant, he could not fell him but at a high price ; and that whoever had him (hould pay a guinea and a half.

There are faid to be in Earra^ a race of horfes yet fmaller, of which the higheil is not above thirty-fix inches.

The rent of "Rum is not great. Mr. Maclean declared, that he (hould be very rich if he could fet his land at two pence halfpenny an acre. The inhabitants are fifty-eight families, who continued Papifts for fome time after the Laird became a Pro-

teftant.

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 295

teftant. ^Their adherence to their old reli- gion was ftrengthened by the countenance of the Laird's fitter, a zealous Romanift, till one Sunday, as they were going to mafs under the conduct of their patronefs, Mac- lean met them on the way, gave one of them a blow on the head with a yellow Jlicky I fuppofe a cane, for which the Earfe had no name, and drove them to the kirk, from which they have never fince departed. Since the ufe of this method of converfion, the inhabitants of Egg and Canna, who continue Papifts, call the Proteftantifm of Rum, the religion of the Tellow Sticky

7 The only Popiih Iflands are Egg and

.^ Egg is the principal Ifland of a parifh, in which, though he has no congre- gation, the Proteftant Minifler refides. I have heard of nothing curious in it, but the cave in which a former generation of the Iflanders were fmothered by Mackod.

U4 If

296 A JOURNEY TO THE

If we had travelled with more leifure, it had not been fit to have neglected the Po- pifh Iflands. Popery is favourable to cere- mony -y and among ignorant nations, cere- mony is the only prefervative of tradition. Since Proteftantifin was extended to the fa^ vage parts of Scotland, it has perhaps been one of the chief labours of the Minifters to abolifh ftated obfervances, becaufe they continued the remembrance of the former religion. We therefore who came to hear old traditions, and fee antiquated manners, mould probably have found them amongft the Papifls.

Canna, the other Popiih Ifland, belongs to Clanronald. It is faid not to comprife more than twelve miles of land, and yet maintains as many inhabitants as Rum.

We were at Col under the protection of the young Laird, without any of the dif- trefles, which Mr. Pennant, in a fit of fim-

pie

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 297

pie credulity, feems to think almoft worthy of an elegy by Offian. Wherever we roved, we were pleafed to fee the reverence with which his fubjecls regarded him. He did not endeavour to dazzle them by any mag- nificence of drefs : his only diftin&ion was a feather in his bonnet; but as foon as he appeared, they forfook their work and eluftered about him : he took them by the hand, and they feemed mutually delighted. He has the proper difpofition of a Chieftain, and feems defirous to continue the cuftoms of his houfe. The bagpiper played regu- larly, when dinner was ferved, whofe per- fon and drefs made a good appearance ; and he brought no difgrace upon the family of Rankin, which has long fupplied the

, IT i Lairds of CJ with hereditary mufick.

^ t_ 7

The Tackfmen of Col feem to live with lefs dignity and convenience than thofe of Sky; where they had good houfes, and tables not only plentiful, but delicate. In

Col

298 A JOURNEY TO THE

Col only two houfes pay the window-tax ; for only two have fix windows, which, I fup- pofe, are the Laird's and Mr. Macfweyrfs.

The rents have, till within feven years, been paid in kind, but the tenants finding that cattle and corn varied in their price, defired for the future to give their land- lord money; which, not having yet arrived at the philofophy of commerce, they con- fider as being every year of the fame value.

We were told of ^a particular mode of undertenure. The Tackfman admits fome *>f his inferior neighbours to the cultiva- tion of his grounds, on condition that per- forming all the work, and giving a third part of the feed, they (hall keep a certain number of cows, fheep, and goats, and reap a third part of the harveft. Thus by lefs than the tillage of two acres they pay the rent of one.

There

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 299

There are tenants below the rank of Tackfmen, that have got fmaller tenants under them; for in every place, where money is not the general equivalent, there muft be fome whofe labour is immediately paid by daily food.

A country that has no money, is by no means convenient for beggars, both becaufe fuch countries are commonly poor, and be- caufe charity requires fome trouble and fome thought. A penny is eafily given upon the firft impulfe of compaffion, or im- patience of importunity ; but few will de- liberately fearch their cupboards or their granaries to find out fomething to give. A penny is likewife eafily fpent ; but vic- tuals, if they are unprepared, require houfe- room, and fire, and utenfils, which the beggar knows not where to find.

Yet beggars there fometimes are, who wander from Ifland to Ifland. We had,

in

A JOURNEY TO T FIE

in ,our paffage to Mull, the company of a woman and her child, who had exhaufted the charity of Co!. The arrival of a beg- gar on an Ifland is accounted a fmiftrous event. Every body confiders that he fhali have the lefs for what he gives away. Their alms, I believe, is generally oat- meal.

Near to Ccl is another Ifland called Tir- eye, eminent for its fertility. Though it has but half the extent of Rum, it is fo well peopled, that there have appeared, not long ago, nine hundred and fourteen at a fune- ral. The plenty of this Ifland enticed beggars to it, who feemed fo burthenfome to the inhabitants, that a formal compact was drawn up, by which they obliged them- felves to grant no more relief to cafual wanderers, becaufe they had among them an indigent woman of high birth, whom they confidered as entitled to all that they could fpare. I have read the ftipujation,

which

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 301

which was indited with juridical forma- lity, but was never made valid by regular fubfcription.

If the inhabitants of Col have nothing to give, it is not that they are opprefled by their landlord : their leafes feem to be very profitable. One farmer, who pays only feven pounds a year, has maintained feven daughters and three fons, of whom the eldefl is educated at Aberdeen for the miniflry ; and now, at every vacation, opens a fchool in Col.

Life is here, in fome refpects, improved beyond the condition of fome other Iflands. In Sky what is wanted can only be bought, as the arrival of fome wandering pedlar may afford an opportunity; but in Cdl there is a ftanding (hop, and in Mull there are two/" A fhop in the Iflands, as in other places of little frequentation, is a repofitory of every thing requifite for common ufe. Mr.

Bofweir*

302 A JOURNEY TO THE

Bofiue/Ps journal was filled, and he bought fome paper in Col. To a man that ranges the ftreets of London^ where he is tempted to contrive wants for the pleafure of fup- plying them, a fhop affords no image worthy of attention ; but in an Ifland, it turns the balance of exiftence between good and evil. To live in perpetual want of lit- tle things, is a ftate not indeed of torture, but of conftant vexation. I have in Sky had fome difficulty to find ink for a letter; and if a woman breaks her needle, the work is at ^a flop.

As it is, the Iflanders are obliged to con- tent themfelves with fuccedaneous means for many common purpofes. I have feen the chief man of a very wide diftricl: riding with a halter for a bridle, and governing his hobby with a wooden curb.

The people of CW, however, do not want dexterity to fupply fome of their

neceflities.

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 303

tieceffities. Several arts which make trades, and demand apprenticefhips in great cities, are here the practices of daily economy. In every houfe candles are made, both moulded and dipped. Their wicks are fmall ihreds of linen cloth. They all know how to extract from the Cuddy, oil for their lamps. They all tan Ikins, and make brogues.

As we travelled through Sky, we faw many cottages, but they very frequently flood fmgle on the naked ground. In Col, where the hills opened a place convenient for habitation, we found a petty village of which every hut had a little garden adjoin- ing} thus they made an appearance of focial commerce and mutual offices, and of fome attention to convenience and future fupply. There is not in the Weftern I/lands any col- lection of buildings that can make preten- fions to be called a town, except in the Me of Lpwis, which I have not feen.

If

304 A JOURNEY TO THE

If Lewis is diftinguifhed by a town, Col has alfo fomething peculiar. The young Laird has attempted what no Iflander per- haps ever thought on. He has begun a road capable of a wheel-carriage. He has carried it about a mile, and will continue it by annual elongation from his houfe to the harbour.

Of taxes here is no reafon for complain- ing ; they are paid by a very eafy com- pofition. The malt-tax for Col is twenty fhillings. Whifky is very plentiful: there are feveral ftills in the Ifland, and more is made than the inhabitants confume.

The great bufinefs of infular policy is now to keep the people in their own coun- try. As the world has been let in upon them, they have heard of happier climates, and lefs arbitrary government ; and if they are difgufted, have erniffaries among them ready to offer them land and houfes, as a

reward

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 305

reward for deferting their Chief and Clan. f Many have departed both from the main of Scotland, and from the Iflands ; and all that go may be confidered as fubje&s loft to the Britifi crown ; for a nation fcattered in the boundlefs regions of America referrt- bles rays diverging from a focus. All the rays remain, but the heat is gone. Their power confifted in their concentration : when they are difperfed they have no ef-

It may be thought that they are happier by the change ; but they are not happy as a nation, for they are a nation no longer. As they contribute not to the profperity of any community, they muft want that fecu- rity, that dignity, that happinefs, whatever it be, which a profperous community throws back upon individuals.

The inhabitants of Col have not yet

learned to be weary of their heath and

X rocks,

306 A JOURNEY TO THE

rocks, but attend their agriculture and their dairies, without liftening to American fe- ducements.

There are fome however who think that this emigration has raifed terrour difpro- portionate to its real evil ; and that it is only a new mode of doing what was always done. The Highlands, they fay, never maintained their natural inhabitants ; but the people, when they found themfelves too numerous, inftead of extending culti- vation, provided for themfelves by a more compendious method, and fought better fortune in other countries. They did not indeed go away in collective bodies, but withdrew invifibly, a few at a time 5 but the whole number of fugitives was not lefs, and the difference between other times and this, is only the fame as between evapora- tion and effufion.

This is plaufible, but I am afraid it is not true. Thofe who went before, if they

were

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 307

were not fenfibly mifled, as the argument fuppofes, muft have gone either in lefs num- ber, or in a manner lefs detrimental, than at prefent ; becaufe formerly there was no complaint. Thofe who then left the coun- try were generally the idle dependants on overburdened families, or men who had no property; and therefore carried away only themfelves. In the prefent eagernefs o£ emigration, families, and almoft commu- nities, go away together. Thofe who were confidered as profperous and wealthy fell their ftock and carry away the money. Once none went away but the ufelefs and poor 5 in fome parts there is now reafon to fear, that none will ftay but thofe who are too poor to remove themfelves, and too ufelefs to be removed at the coft of others.

Of antiquity there is not more know- ledge in Col than in other places ; but every where fomething may be gleaned.

X 2 How

308 A JOURNEY TO THE

How ladies were portioned, when there was no money, it would be difficult for an Engtijbman to guefs. In 1649, Maclean of Dronart in Mull married his fifter Hw- gala to Maclean of Col, with a hundred and eighty kine; and ftipulated, that if (he became a widow, her jointure fhould be three hundred and fixty. I fuppofe fome proportionate tra&of land was appropriated to their pafturage.

The difpofition to pompous and expend ve funerals, which has at one time or other prevailed in moft parts of the civilized world, is not yet fupprefled in the Iflands, though fome of the ancient folemnities arc worn away, and fingers are no longer hired to attend the proceffion. Nineteen years ago, at the burial of the Laird of Co/9 were killed thirty cows, and about fifty fheep. The number of the cows is pofitively told, and we rnuft fuppofe other victuals in like proportion.

Mr.

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 309

Mr. Maclean informed us of an odd game, of which he did not tell the origi- nal, but which may perhaps be ufed in other places, where the reafon of it is not yet forgot. /At New-year's eve, in the hall or caftle of the Laird, where, at feftal feafons, there may be fuppofed a very numerous company, one man dreffes him- felf in a cow's hide, upon which other men beat with flicks. He runs with all this noife round the houfe, which all the com- pany quits in a counterfeited fright : the door is then {hut. At New-year's eve there is no great pleafure to be had out of doors in the Hebrides. They are fure foon to re- cover from their terrour enough to folicit for re-admiffion; which, for the honour of poetry, is not to be obtained but by re- peating a verfe, with which thofe that are knowing and provident take care to be furnifhed.

X 3 Very

310 A JOURNEY TO THE

Very near the houfe of Maclean ftands the caflle of Col, which was the manfion of the Laird, till the houfe was built. It is built upon a rock, as Mr. Bofaell remark- ed, that it might not be mined. It is very ftrong, and having been not long uninhabited, is yet in repair. On thq wall was, not long ago, a ftone with an infcription, importing, that if any man of the Clan cf Mac Ionic h Jball appear before this caftle, though he come at mid- night, with a marts head in his bandy he JJ-jall there find fafety and protection againjl all but the King.

This is an old Highland treaty made upon a very memorable occaiion. Maclean^ the fon of.Jokn Gerves, who recovered Co/, and conquered Barra, had obtained, it is faid, from 'James the Second; a grant of the lands of Loch' el, forfeited, I fuppofe, byfome offence againft the ftate.

Forfeited

XVESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 311

Forfeited eftates were not in thofe days quietly refigned ; Maclean, therefore, went with an armed force to feize his new pof- feffions, and, I know not for what reafon, took his wife with him. The Camerom rofe in defence of their Chief, and a battle was fought at the head of Loch Ncfs^ near the place where Fort Auguftus now ftands, in which Lochlel obtained the vidory, and Maclean, with his followers, was defeated and deftroyed.

The lady fell into the hands of the con- querors, and being found pregnant, was placed in the cuftody of Madomch^ one of a tribe or family branched from Cameron^ with orders, if fhe brought a boy, to deftroy him, if a girl, to fpare her.

MadonicJos wife, who was with child likewife, had a girl about the fame time at which lady Maclean brought a boy, and with more generofity to his cap- X 4 tive,

A JOURNEY TO THE

tive, than fidelity to his truft, contrived that the children {hould be changed.

Maclean being thus preferved from death, in time recovered his original patrimony ; and in gratitude to his friend, made his caille a place of refuge to any of the Clan that {hould think himfelf in danger ; and as a proof of reciprocal confidence, Maclean took upon himfelf and his pofterity the care of educating the heir of Maclonicb.

This ftory, like all other traditions of the Highlands, is varioufiy related ; but though fome circumftances are uncertain, the principal fa£t is true. Maclean un- doubtedly owed his prefervation to Mach- nicb ; for the treaty between the two fami- lies has been ftridlly obferved : it did not fink into difufe and oblivion, but continued in its full force while the chieftains retained their power. I have read a demand of pro- ts£tion, made not mpre than thirty-feven

years;

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 313

years ago, for one of the Macknichs, named Ewen Cameron, who had been acceffory to the death of Macmartin^ and had been banifhed by Lochiel, his lord, for a certain term ; at the expiration of which he returned married from France ; but the Macmartins, not fatisfied with the punifh- ment, when he attempted to fettle, dill threatened him with vengeance. He there- fore aiked> and obtained fhelter in the Ifle of Col.

The power of protection fubfifts no longer ; but what the law permits is yet continued, and Maclean of Col now educates the heir of Maclonich.

There ftill remains in the Iflands, though it is paffing faft away, the cuftom of fofter- age. A Laird, a man of wealth and emi- nence, fends his child, either male or female, to a tackfman, or tenant, to be foftered. It is not always his own tenant, but fome

diftant

A JOURNEY TO THE

diftant friend that obtains this honour; for an honour fuch a truft is very reafon- ably thought. The terms of fofterage feem to vary in different iflands. In Mull the father fends with his child a certain num- ber of cows, to which the fame number is added by the foflerer. The father appro- priates a proportionable extent of ground, without rent, for their pafturage. If every cow brings a calf, half belongs to the foflerer, and half to the child ; but if there be only one calf between two cows, it is the child's, and when the child returns to the parents, it is accompanied by all the cows given, both by the father and by the fofterer, with half of the increafe of the flock by propagation. Thefe beads are confidered as a portion, and called Mac- alive cattle, of which the father has the produce, but is fuppofed not to have the full property, but to owe the fame number to the child, as a portion to the daughter, or a flock for the fon.

Children

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 315

Children continue with the fofterer per- haps fix years, and cannot, where this is the practice, be confidered as burdenfome. The fefterer, if he gives four cows, re- ceives likewife four, and has, while the child continues with him, grafs for eight without rent, with half the calves, and all the milk, for which he pays only four cows when he difmiffes his Dalt, for that is the name for a fofter child.

Fofterage is, I believe, fometimes per- formed upon more liberal terms. Our friend, the young Laird of Coly was fof- tered by Macf<.ieyn of Griffipol. Mac- fweyn then lived a tenant to Sir James Macdonald in the Jfle of Sky : and there- fore C0/, whether he fent him cattle or not, could grant him no land. The Dalt, how- ever, at his return, brought back a confi- derable number of Mac alive cattle, and of the friendmip fo formed there have been good effeds. When Macdanald raifed his 8 rents,

3*6 A JOURNEY TO THE

rents, Macfweyn was, like other tenants, difcontented, and, refigning his farm, re- moved from Sky to Co/, and was eftablifh- ed at Grffipol.

Thefe obfervations we made by favour of the contrary wind that drove us to Co/, an Ifland not often vifited ; for there is not much to amufe curiofity, or to attract avarice.

The ground has been hitherto, I be- lieve, ufed chiefly for pafturage. In a dif- trid, fuch as the eye can command, there is a general herdfman, who knows all the cattle of the neighbourhood, and whofe ftation is upon a hill, from which he furveys the lower grounds 5 and if one man's cattle invade another's grafs, drives them back to their own borders. But other means of profit begin to be found; kelp is gathered and burnt, and floops are loaded with the concreted aflies. Cultivation is likely to be improved by the fkill and en^

couragement

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 317

couragement of the prefent heir, and the inhabitants of thofe obfcure vallies will partake of the general progrefs of life.

The rents of the parts which belong to the Duke of Argyle, have been raifed from fifty-five to one hundred and five pounds, whether from the land or the fea I cannot tell. The bounties of the fea have lately been fo great, that a farm in Southuift has rifen in ten years from a rent of thirty pounds to one hundred and eighty.

He who lives in Col, and finds himfelf condemned to folitary meals, and incommu- nicable refle&ion, will find the ufefulnefs of that middle order of Tackfmen, which fome who applaud their own wifdom are wi(hing to deftroy. Without intelligence man is not focial, he is only gregarious; and little intelligence will there be, where all are conftrained to daily labour, and every mind muft wait upon the hand.

After

A JOURNEY TO THE

After having liftened for fome days to the tempeft, and wandered about the Ifland till our curiofity was fatisfied, we began to think about our departure. To leave Col in Odober was not very eafy. We how- ever found a {loop which lay on the coaft to carry kelp; and for a price which we thought levied upon our neceffities, the matter agreed to carry us to Mu//9 whence we migh't readily pafs back to Scotland.

MULL.

As we were to catch the firft favourable breath, we fpent the night not very ele- gantly nor pleafantly in the verier, and were landed next day at Tobor Morar, a port in Mully which appears to an unex- perienced eye formed for the fecurity of Ihips ; for its mouth is clofed by a fmall ifland, which admits them through narrow- channels into a bafon fufficiently capacious. They are indeed fafe from the . fea, but

there

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 319

there is a hollow between the mountains, through which the wind iffues from the land with very mifchievous violence.

There was no danger while we were there, and we found feveral other veflels at anchor ; fo that the port had a very commercial appearance.

The young Laird of Ccly who had deter- mined not to let us lofe his company, while there was any difficulty remaining, came over with us. His influence foon ap- peared ; for he procured us horfes, and conducted us to the houfe of Doctor Mac- clean^ where we found very kind enter- tainment, and very pleafing converfation. Mifs Maclean^ who was born, and had been bred at Glq/govv, having removed with her father to Mull, added to other qualifications, a great knowledge of the Earfe language, which fhe had not learned ia her. childhood, but gained by fludy, and

wa*

320 A JOURNEY TO THE

was the only interpreter of Earfe that I could ever find.

The Ifle of Muff i* perhaps in extent the third of the Hebrides. It is not broken by waters, nor fhot into promontories, but i$ a folid and compact mafs, of breadth nearly equal to its length. Of the dimen- fions of the larger Iflands, there is no knowledge approaching to exa&nefs. I am willing to eftimate it as containing about three hundred fquare miles.

Mull had fuffered like Sky by the black winter of feventy-one, in which, contrary to all experience, a continued froft detained the fnow eight weeks upon the ground. Againft a calamity never known, no provi- fion had been made, and the people could only pine in helplefs mifery. One tenant was mentioned, whofe cattle perimed to the value of three .hundred pounds ; a lofs which probably more than the life of mart

is

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 321

is neceflary to repair. In countries like thefe, the defcriptions of famine become intelligible. Where by vigorous and art- ful cultivation of a foil naturally fertile, there is commonly a fuperfluous growth both of grain and grafs; where the fields are crowded with cattle ; and where every hand is able to attract wealth from a di- ftance, by making fomething that promotes eafe, or gratifies vanity, a dear year pro- duces only a comparative want, which is rather feen than felt, and which termi- nates commonly in no worfe effect:, than that of condemning the lower orders of the community to facrifice a little luxury to convenience, or at mod a little convenience to neceffity.

But where the climate is unkind, and the ground penurious, fo that the moft fruit- ful years produce only enough to main- tain themfelves; where life unimproved, and unadorned, fades into fomething little Y more

322 A JOURNEY TO THE

more than naked exiftence, and every one is bufy for himfelf, without any arts by which the pleafure of others may be in- creafed ; if to the daily burden of diftrefs any additional weight be added, nothing remains but to defpair and die. In Mull the difappointment of a harveft, or a mur- rain, among the cattle, cuts off the regu- lar provifion ; and they who have no manufactures can purchafe no part of the fuperfluities of other countries. The con- fequence of a bad feafon is here not fear- city, but emptinefs ; and they whofe plenty was barely a fupply of natural and prefent need, when that {lender ftock fails, muft perifh with hunger.

All travel has its advantages. If the paf- fenger vifits better countries, he may learn to improve his own, and if fortune carries him to worfe, he may learn to enjoy it.

Mr. Bofwell's curiofity flrongly impelled him to furvey lona, or Icolmkill^ which was

to

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 323

to the early ages the great fchool of Theology, and is fuppofed to have been the place of fepulture for the ancient kings. I, though lefs eager, did not oppofe him.

That we might perform this expedition, it was neceffary to traverfe a great part of Mull. We paflfed a day at Dr. Maclean's, and could have been well contented to flay longer. But Col provided us horfes, and we purfued our journey. This was a day of inconvenience, for the country is very rough, and my horfe was but little. We travelled many hours through a tract, black and barren, in which, however, there were the reliques of humanity ; for we found % ruined chapel in our way.

It is natural, in traverfing this gloom of defolation, to inquire, whether fomething may not be done to give Nature a more cheerful face, and whether thofe hills and moors that afford heath cannot with a little Y * care

J24 A JOURNEY TO THE

care and labour bear fomething better? The firft thought that occurs is to cover them with trees, for that in many of thefe naked regions trees will grow, is evident, becaufe flumps and roots are yet remain- ing; and the fpeculatift haftily proceeds to cenfure that negligence and lazinefs that has omitted for fo long a time fo eafy an improvement.

To drop feeds into the ground, and at- tend their growth, requires little labour and no {kill. He who remembers that all the woods, by which the wants of man have been fupplied from the Deluge till now, were felf-fown, will not eafily be perfuaded to think all the art and prepara- tion neceffary which the Georgick writers prefcribe to planters. Trees certainly have covered the earth with very little culture. They wave their tops among the rocks of Norway^ and might thrive as well in the Highlands and Hebrides.

But

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 325

But there is a frightful interval between the feed and timber. He that calculates the growth of trees, has the unwelcome remembrance of the (hortnefs of life driven hard upon him. He knows that he is do- ing what will never benefit himfelf; and when he rejoices to fee the ftem rife, is dif- pofed to repine that another fhall cut it down.

Plantation is naturally the employment of a mind unburdened with care, and va- cant to futurity, faturated with prefent good, and at leifure to derive gratification from the profped of pofterity. He that pines with hunger, is in little care how others fhall be fed. The poor man is fel- dom ftudious to make his grandfon rich. It may be foon difcovered, why in a place, which hardly fupplies the cravings of ne- ceflity, there has been little attention to the delights of fancy, and why diftant conve- nience is unregarded, where the thoughts Y 3 are

326 A JOURNEY TO THE

are turned with inceflant folicitude upon every poffibility of immediate advantage.

Neither is it quire fo eafy to raife large woods, as may be conceived. Trees intend- ed to produce timber muft be fown where they are to grOwj and ground fown with trees muft be kept ufelefs for a long time, inclofed at an expence from which many will be difcou raged by the remotenefs of the profit, and watched with that attention, which* in places where it is moft needed, will neither be given nor bought. That it cannot be plowed is evident ; and if cattle be fuffered to graze upon it, they will de- vour the plants as faft as they rife. Even in coarfer countries, where herds and flocks are not fed, not only the deer and the wild goats will browfe upon them, but the hare and rabbit will nibble them. It is there- fore reasonable to believe, what I do not remember any naturalift to have remarked, that there was a time when the world was

very

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 327

very thinly inhabited by beafts, as well as men, and that the woods had leifure to rife high before animals had bred numbers fuf- ficient to intercept them.

Sir James Macdonahi, in part of the waftes of his territory, fet or lowed trees, to the number, as I have been told, of feveral millions, expecting, doubtlefs, that they would grow up into future navies and cities ; but for want of inclofure, and of that care which is always neceflfary, and will hardly ever be taken, all his coft and labour have been loft, and the ground is likely to continue an ufelefs heath.

Having not any experience of a journey in Midi, we had no doubt of reaching the fea by day-light, and therefore had not left Dr. Macleans very early. We travelled diligently enough, but found the country, for road there was none, very difficult to pafs. We were always flruggling with Y 4 fome

A JOURNEY TO THE

fome obftrudion or other, and our vexa- tion was not balanced by any gratification of the eye or mind. We were now long enough acquainted with hills and heath to have loft the emotion that they once raifed, whether pleafing or painful, and had our mind employed only on our own fatigue. We were however fure, under Col's pro- te&ion, of efcaping all real evils. There was no houfe in Mull to which he could not introduce us. He had intended to lodge us, for that night, with a gentleman that lived upon the coaft, but difcovered on the way, that he then lay in bed without hope of life.

We refolved not to embarrafs a family, in a time of fo much forrow, if any other expedient could be found ; and as the Ifland of Ufoa was over-againft us, it was deter- mined that we fliould pafs the ftrait and have recourfe to the Laird, who, like the other gentlemen of the Iflands, was known

to

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c.

to Col. We expected to find a ferry-boat, but when at laft we came to the water, the boat was gone.

We were now again at a ftop. It was the fixteenth of Qdtober, a time when it is not convenient to fleep in the Hebrides with- out a cover, and there was no houfe within our reach, but that which we had already declined.

U L V A.

While we flood deliberating, we were happily efpied from an Irijh fhip, that lay at anchor in the ftrait. The matter faw that we wanted a paflage, and with great civility fent us his boat, which quickly con- veyed us to ET/w, where we were very liberally entertained by Mr. Macquarry.

To Uha we came in the dark, and left it before noon the next day. A v^rv cxadt

defcriptioa

330 A JOURNEY TO THE

defcription therefore will not be expected. We were told, that it is an Ifland of no great extent, rough and barren, inhabited by the Macquarrys ; a Clan not powerful nor numerous, but of antiquity, which mod other families are content to reve- rence. The name is fuppofed to be a de- pravation of fome other; for the Earje language does not afford it any etymo- logy. Mcicquarry is proprietor both of Utva and fome adjacent Iflands, among which is Stajfa, fo lately raifed to renown by Mr. Banks.

When the Iflanders were reproached with their ignorance, or infenfibility of the •wonders of Staffa, they had not much to reply. They had indeed confidered it littlej becaufe they had always feen it ; and none but philofophers, nor they always, are ftruck with wonder, otherwife than by novelty. How would it furprife an unen- lightened ploughman, to hear a company

of

WESTERN ISLANDS, &e. 331

of fober men, inquiring by what power the hand tofles a ftone, or why the (lone, when it is tofled, falls to the ground !

Of the anceftors of Macquarry, who thus lies hid in his unfrequented Ifland, I have found memorials in all places where they could be expeded.

Inquiring after the reliques of former manners, I found that in Uha9 and, I think, no where elfe, is continued the pay- ment of the Merc bet a Mutierum ; a fine in old times due to the Laird at the marriage of a virgin. The original of this claim, as of our tenure of Borough Enghjh, is vari- oufly delivered. It is pleafant to find an- cient cuftoms in old families. This pay- ment, like others, was, for want of money, made anciently in the produce of the land. Macquarry was ufed to demand a ftieep, for which he now takes a crown, by that inattention to the uncertain proportion be- tween

332 A JOURNEY TO THE

tween the value and the denomination of money, which has brought much diforder into Europe. A fheep has always the fame power of fupplying human wants, but a crown will bring at one time more, at an- other lefs.

Ufoa was not neglected by the piety of ancient times : it has ftill to fhow what was once a church.

INCH KENNETH.

In the morning we went again into the boat, and were landed on Inch Kenneth^ an Ifland about a mile long, and perhaps half a mile broad, remarkable for pleafantnefs and fertility. It is verdant and grafly, and fit both for pafture and tillage ; but it has no trees. Its only inhabitants were Sir Allan Maclean, and two young Iadies5 his daughters, with their fervants,

Romance

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 333

X

Romance does not often exhibit a fcene that ftrikes the imagination more than this little defert in thefe depths of Weftern ob- fcurity, occupied not by a grofs herdfman, or amphibious fifherman, but by a gentle- man and two ladies, of high birth, polifhed manners, and elegant converfation, who, in a habitation raifed not very far above the ground, but furnifhed with unexpected neatnefs and convenience, practifed all the kindnefs of hofpitality, and refinement of courtefy^

Sir Allan is the Chieftain of the great Clan of Maclean, which is faid to claim the fecond place among the Highland families, yielding only to Macdonald. Though by the mifccndu&of his anceftors, moft of the extenfive territory, which would have de- fcended to him, has been alienated, he ftill retains much of the dignity and authority of his birth. When foldiers were lately wanting for the American war, application

was

334 A JOURNEY TO THE

was made to Sir Allan, and he nominated a hundred men for the fervice, who obeyed the fummons, and bore arms under his command.

He had then, for fome time, refided with the young ladies in Inch Kenneth^ where he lives not only with plenty, but with elegance, having conveyed to his cot- tage a collection of books, and what elfe is neceffary to make his hours pleafant.

When we landed, we were met by Sir Allan and the ladies, accompanied by Mifs Macquarry, who had patted fome time with them, and now returned to Ufoa with her father.

We all walked together to the manfion, where we found one cottage for Sir Allan ^ and I think two more for the domefticks and the offices. We entered, and wanted little that palaces afford. Our room was 1 1 neatly

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 335

neatly floored, and well lighted ; and our dinner, which was drefled in one of the other huts, was plentiful and delicate.

In the afternoon Sir Allan reminded us, that the day was Sunday, which he never fuffered to pafs without fome religious dif- fin&ion, and invited us to partake in his ads of domeftick worfhip ; which I hope neither Mr. Bofwell nor myfelf will be fuf- peded of a difpofition to refufe. The elder of the ladies read the Englijh fervice.

Inch Kenneth was once a feminary of ecclefiafticks, fubordinate, I fuppofe, to IcQlmkill. Sir Allan had a mind to trace the foundation of the college, but neither I nor Mr. Bofwell> who bends a keener eye on vacancy > were able to perceive them.

Our attention, however, was fufficiently engaged by a venerable chapel, which ftands yet entire, except that the roof is

gone.

A JOURNEY TO THE

gone. It is about fixty feet in length, and thirty in breadth. On one fide of the altar is a has relief of the blefled Virgin, and by it lies a little bell ; which, though cracked, and without a clapper, has remained there for ages, guarded only by the venerable- nefs of the place. The ground round the chapel is covered with grave- ftones of Chiefs and ladies ; and ftill continues to be a place of fepulture.

Inch Kenneth is a proper prelude to Icolmkill. It was not without fome mournful emotion that we contemplated the ruins of religious ftru&ures, and the monuments of the dead.

On the next day we took a more diftind view of the place, and went with the boat to fee oyfters in the bed, out of which the boat-men forced up as many as were want- ed. Even Inch Kenneth has a fubordi- nate Ifland, named Sandiland, I fuppbfe,

ill

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 337

in contempt, where we landed, and found a rock, with a furface of perhaps four acres, of which one is naked ftone, another fpread with land and fhells, fome of which I picked up for their glofly beauty, and two covered with a little earth and grafs, on which Sir Allan has a few fheep. I doubt not but when there was a college at Inch Kenneth^ there was a hermitage upon Sandiland.

Having wandered over thofe extenfive plains, we committed ourfelves again to the winds and waters ; and after a voyage of about ten minutes, in which we met with nothing very obfervable, were again fafe upon dry ground.

We told Sir Allan our defire of vifiting Icolmkill) and entreated him to give up his prote&ion, and his company. He thought proper to hefitate a little; but the Ladies hinted, that as they^knew he would not Z finally

338 A JOURNEY TO THE

finally fefufe, he would do better if he pre- ferred the grace of ready compliance. He took their advice, and promifed to carry us on the morrow in his boat.

We pafled the remaining part of the day In fuch amufements as were in our power. Sir Allan related the American campaign, and at evening one of the Ladies played on her harpfichord, while Col and Mr. Eofwell danced a Scottijh reel with the other.

We could have been eafily perfuaded to a longer ftay upon Inch Kenneth^ but life will not be all pafled in delight. The feffion at Edinburgh was approaching, from which Mr. Eofwell could not be abfent.

In the morning our boat was ready : it was high and ftrong. Sir Allan victualled it for the day, and provided able rowers. We now parted from the young Laird of C0/, who had treated us with fo much kind-

nefs,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 339

nefs, and concluded his favours by con- figning us to Sir Allan. Here we had the laft embrace of this amiable man, who, while thefe pages were preparing to atteft his virtues, perifhed in the paffage between Ufa a and Inch Kenneth.

Sir Allan, to whom the whole region was well known, told us of a very remark- able cave, to which he would fhow us the way. We had been difappointed already by one cave, and were not much elevated by the expectation of another.

It was yet better to fee it, and we flop- ped at fome rocks on the coaft of Mull. The mouth is fortified by vaft fragments of ftone, over which we made our way, nei- ther very nimbly, nor very fecurely. The place, however, well repaid our trouble. The bottom, as far as the flood ruflies in, was encumbered with large pebbles, but as Z 2 we

340 A JOURNEY TO THE

we advanced was fpread over with fmooth fand. The breadth is about forty-five feet: the roof rifes in an arch, almoft regular, to a height which we could not meafure; but I think it about thirty feet.

This part of our curiofity was nearly fruftrated ; for though we went to fee a cave, and knew that caves are dark, we forgot to carry tapers, and did not difcover our omiffion till we were wakened by our wants. Sir Allan then fent one of the boat- men into the country, who foon returned with one little candle. We were thus en- abled to go forward, but could not venture far. Having paffed inward from the fea to a great depth, we found on the right hand a narrow paflage, perhaps not more than fix feet wide, obftructed by great ftones, over which we climbed and came into a fecond cave, in breadth twenty-five feet. The air in this apartment was very warm, but not oppreffive, nor loaded with vapours,

Our

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 341

Our light fhowed no tokens of a feculent or corrupted atmofphere. Here was a fquare ftone, called, as we are told, Fin- gal's Table.

If we had been provided with torches, we fliould have proceeded in our fearch, though we had already gone as far as any former adventurer, except fome who are reported never to have returned ; and, meafuring our way back, we found it more than a hundred and fixty yards, the eleventh part of a mile.

Our meafures were not critically exact, having been made with a walking pole, fuch as it is convenient to carry in thefe rocky countries, of which I guefled the length by ftanding againft it. In this there could be no great errour, nor do I much doubt but the Highlander, whom we employed, re- ported the number right. More nicety however is better, and no man ihould tra- Z 3 vel

A JOURNEY TO THE

vel unprovided with inftruments for taking heights and diftances.

There is yet another caufe of errour not always eafily furmounted, though more dangerous to the veracity of itinerary nar- ratives, than imperfect menfuration. An obferver deeply imprefled by any remark- able fpedacle, does not fuppoie, that the traces will foon vanifh from his mind, and having commonly no great conve- nience for writing, defers the defcription to a time of more leifure, and better accom- modation.

He who has not made the experiment, or who is not accuftomed to require ri- gorous accuracy from himfelf, will fcarcely believe how much a few hours take from certainty of knowledge, and diftindnefs of imagery; how the fucceffion of objeds will be broken, how feparate parts will be con- fufed, and how many particular features

and

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 343

and difcriminations will be compreffed and conglobated into one grofs and general idea.

To this dilatory notation muft be im- puted the falfe relations of travellers, where there is no imaginable motive to deceive. They trufted to memory what cannot be trufted fafely but to the eye, and told by guefs what a few hours before they had known with certainty. Thus it was that Wheeler and Spen defcribed with irrecon- cilable contrariety things which they furveyed together, and which both un- doubtedly defigned to {how as they favy them.

When we had fatisfied our curiofity in the cave, fo far as our penury of light perr mitted Us, we clambered again to our boats, and proceeded along the coaft of Mull to a headland, called Aturiy remarkable for the Z 4 columnar

344 A JOURNEY TO THE

columnar form of the rocks, which rife in a feries of pilafters, with a degree of regu- larity, which Sir Allan thinks not lefs worthy of curiofity than the fhore of

Sta/a.

Not long after we came to another range of black rocks, which had the appearance of broken pilafters, fet one behind an- other to a great depth. This place was cliofen by Sir Allan for our dinner. We were eafily accommodated with feats, for the ftones were of all heights, and refrefhed ourfelves and our boatmen, who could have no other reft till we were at Icolmkill.

The evening was now approaching, and we were yet at a confiderable diftance from the end of our expedition. We could therefore ftop no more to make remarks in the way, but fet forward with ibme degree

of

WESTERN ISLANDS, &cf 345

of eagernefs. The day foon failed us, and the moon prefented a very folemn and pleafing fcene. The fky was clear, fo that the eye commanded a wide circle : the fea was neither ftiij nor turbulent : the wind neither filent nor loud. We were never far from one coaft or another, on which, if the weather had become violent, we could have found flicker, and therefore contem- plated at eafe the region through which we glided in the tranquillity of the night, and faw now a rock and now an ifland grow gradually confpicuous and gradually ob- fcure. I committed the fault which I have juft been cenfuring, in neglecting, as we pa{fed, to note the feries of this placid na- vigation.

We were very near an Ifland, called Nuns I/land, perhaps from an ancient con- vent. Here is faid to have been dug the ftone which was ufed in the buildings of

Icolmkill.

346 A JOURNEY TO THE

JccJmkilL Whether it is now inhabited we could not ftay to inquire.

At laft we came to Icolmkill, but found no convenience for landing. Our boat could not be forced very near the dry ground, and our Highlanders carried us over the water.

We were now treading that illuftrious Ifland, which was once the luminary of the Caledonian regions, whence favage Clans and roving barbarians derived the benefits of knowledge> and the bleffings of religion* To abftracT: the mind from all local emotion would be impoffible, if it were endeavoured, and would be foolifh, if it were poffible. Whatever withdraws us from the power of our fenfes ; whatever makes the paft, the diftant, or the future predominate over the prefent, advances us in the dignity of think* ing beings.. Far from me and from my

friends,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 347

friends, be fuch frigid philofophy as may conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has been dignified by wifdom, bravery, or virtue. That man is little to be envied, whofe patriotifrn would not gain force upon the plain of Marathon, or whole piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of Icna.

We came too late to vifit monuments: fome care was necefTary for ourfelves. Whatever was in the Ifland, Sir Allan could demand, for the inhabitants were Macleans ; but having little they could not give us much. He went to the headman of the Ifland, whom Fame, but Fame de- lights in amplifying, reprefents as worth, no lefs than fifty pounds. He was perhaps proud enough of his guefts, but ill pre- pared for our entertainment ; however, he foon produced more provifion than men not luxurious require. Our lodging was next to be provided. We found a barn well

flocked

348 A JOURNEY TO THE

flocked with hay, and made our beds as foft as we could.

In the morning we rofe and furveyed the place. The churches of the two con^ vents are both ftanding, though unroofed. They were built of unhewn ftone, but folid, and not inelegant. I brought away rude meafures of the buildings, fuch as I cannot much truft myfelf, inaccurately taken, and obfcurely noted. Mr. Pennant's delineations, which are doubtlefs exact, have made my unfkilful defcription left neceffary.

The epifcopal church confifts of two parts, feparated by the belfry, and built at different times. The original church had, like others, the altar at one end, and tower at the other ; but as it grew too fmall, an- other building of equal dimenfion was added, and the tower then was neceflarily in the middle.

That

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 349

That thefe edifices are of different ages feems evident. The arch of the firft church is Roman, being part of a circle ; that of the additional building is pointed, and there- fore -Gothick, or Saracenical ; the tower is firm, and wants only to be floored and covered.

Of the chambers or cells belonging to the monks, there are fome walls remaining, but nothing approaching to a complete apartment.

The bottom of the church is fo incum- bered with mud and rubbifh, that we could make no difcoveries of curious infcriptions, and what there are have been already publifhed. The place is faid to be known where the black {tones lie concealed, on which the old Highland Chiefs, when they made contracts and alliances, ufed to take the oath, which was coniidered as more facred than any other obligation, and which

could

350 A JOURNEY TO THE

could not be violated without the blacked infamy. In thofe days of violence and rapine, it was of great importance to im- prefs upon favage minds the fan&ity of an oath, by fome particular and extraordinary circumftances. They would not have re- courfe to the black ftones, upon fmall or common occafions, and when they had cftablifhed their faith by this tremendous faiiction, inconftancy and treachery were no longer feared.

The chapel of the nunnery is now ufed by the inhabitants as a kind of general cow-houfe, and the bottom is confequently too miry for examination. Some of the ftones which covered the later abbeffes have iofcripnons, which might yet be read, if the chapel were cleanfed. The roof of this, as of all the other buildings, is totally deftroyed, not only becaufe timber quick* ly decays when it is neglected, but be- caufe in an ifland utterly deftitute of wood,

it

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 35 1

it was wanted for ufe, and was confequently the firft plunder of needy rapacity.

The chancel of the nuns* chapel is covered with an arch of ftone, to which time has done no injury ; and a final 1 apartment communicating with the choir, on the north fide, like the chapter-houfe in cathedrals, roofed with ftone in the fame manner, is likewife entire.

In one of the churches was a marble altar, which the fuperftition of the inha- bitants has deftroyed. Their opinion was, that a fragment of this ftone was a defence againft ftiipwrecks, fire, and mifcarriages. In one corner of the church the bafon for holy water is yet unbroken.

The cemetry of the nunnery was, till very lately, regarded with fuch reverence, that only women were buried in it. Thefe reliques of veneration always produce fome

mournful

A JOURNEY TO THE

mournful pleafure. I could have forgiven a great injury more eafily than the viola- tion of this imaginary fan&ity.

South of the chapel ftand the walls of a large room, which was probably the hall, or refectory of the nunnery. This apart- ment is capable of repair. Of the reft of the convent there are only fragments.

Befides the two principal churches, there are, I think, five chapels yet (landing, and three more remembered. There are alfo crofles, of which two bear the names of St. John and St. Matthew*

A large fpace of ground about thefe con- fecrated edifices is covered with grave- ftones, few of which have any infcription. He that furveys it, attended by an infular antiquary, may be told where the Kings of many nations are buried, and if he loves to footh his imagination with the 13 thoughts

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 353

thoughts that fiaturally rife in places where the great and the powerful lie min- gled with the duft, let him liften in fub- miflive filence ; for if he afks any queftions, his delight is at an end.

Ion a has long enjoyed, without any very credible atteftation, the honour of being reputed the cemetery of the Scotftfh Kings. It is not unlikely, that, when the opinion of local fandity was prevalent, the Chief- tains of the Ifles, and perhaps fome of the Norwegian or Irijh princes, were repofited in this venerable enclofure. But by whom the fubterraneous vaults are peopled is now utterly unknown. 1 he graves are very numerous, and fome of them undoubtedly contain the remains of men, who did not expecl to be fo foon forgotten.

Not far from this awful ground, may

be traced the garden of the monaftery:

the fifhponds are yet difcernible, and the

A a aqueduct,

354 A JOURNEY TO THE

aqueduft, which fupplied them, is ftill in ufe.

There remains a broken building, which is called the Bifhop's houfe, I know not by what authority. It was once the red* dence of fome man above the common rank, for it has two ftories and a chimney. We were {hewn a chimney at the other end, which was only a nich, without perfora- tion, but fo much does antiquarian cre- dulity, or patriotick vanity prevail, that it was not much more fafe to truft the eye of our inftrudor than the memory.

There is in the liland one houfe more, and only one, that has a chimney; we en* tered it, and found it neither wanting re- pair nor inhabitants; but to the farmers, who now poflefs it, the chimney is of no great value; for their fire was made on the floor, in the middle of the room, and not- withftanding the dignity of their manfion,

they

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 355

they rejoiced, like their neighbours, in the comforts of fmoke.

It is obferved, that ecclefiaftical colleges are always in the moft pleafant and fruitful places* While the world allowed the monks their choice, it is furely no difho- nour that they chofe well. This Ifland is remarkably fruitful. The village near the churches is faid to contain feventy families, which, at five in a family, is more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile. There are perhaps other villages; yet both corn and cattle are annually exported.

But the fruitfulnefs of lona is now its whole profperity. The inhabitants are re- markably grofs, and remarkably negleded : I know not if they are vifited by any Mi- nifter. The Ifland, which was once the metropolis of learning and piety, has now no fchool for education, nor temple for A a 2 worfhip,

356 A JOURNEY TO THE

worfhip, only two inhabitants that can fpeak Englijb, and not one that can write or read.

The people are of the Clan of Mackan ; and though Sir Allan had not been in the place for many years, he was received with all the reverence due to their Chieftain. One of them being (harply reprehended by him, for not fending him fome rum, de- clared after his departure, in Mr. Eofwell's prefence, that he had no defign of difap- pointing him, for, faid he, / w:uld cut my bones\ for him ; an d if be had fent his Jog for if9 he foould have had it.

When we were to depart, our boat was left by the ebb at a great diftance from the water, but no fooner did we wifh it afloat, than the iflanders gathered round it, and, by the union of many hands, pulhed it down the beach ; every man who could 2 contribute

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 357

contribute his help feemed to think himfelf happy in the opportunity of being, for a moment, ufeful to his Chief.

We now left thofe illuftrious ruins, by which Mr. Bofwe'l was much affe&ed, nor would I willingly be thought to have look- ed upon them without fome emotion. Per- haps, in the revolutions of the world, lona may be fometime again the inftrudrefs of the Weftern Regions.

It was no long voyage to Mull^ where, under Sir Allan's protedion, we landed in the evening, and were entertained for the night by Mr. Maclean, a Minifter that lives upon the coaft, whofe elegance of conver- fation, and ftrength of judgment, would make him confpicuous in places of greater celebrity. Next day we dined with Dr. Maclean, another phyfician, and then tra- velled on to the houfe of a very powerful A a 3 Laird,

A JOURNEY TO THE

Laird, Maclean of Lochbuy; for in this country every man's name is Maclean.

Where races are thus numerous, and thus combined, none but the Chief of a clan is addrefTed by his name. The Laird of Dunvegan is called Macleod^ but other gentlemen of the fame family are denomi- nated by the places where they refide, as Raafa, or rfalijker. The diftindion of the meaner people is made by their Chriftian names. In confequence of this pradice, the late Laird of Macfarlane, an eminent genealogift, confidered himfelf as difre- fpedfully treated, if the common addition was applied to him. Mr. Macfarlane, faid he, may with equal propriety be faid to many; but I, and I only, am Macfarlam.

Our afternoon journey was through a country of fuch gloomy defolation, that Mr. Bofwell thought no part of the High- lands equally terrifick, yet we came with- out

2

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 359

out any difficulty, at evening, to Lochbuy, where we found a true Highland Laird, tough and haughty, and tenacious of his dignity; who, hearing my name, inquired whether I was of the John/ions of Gkncce^ or of Ardnamurchan ?

Lochbuy has, like the other infular Chieftains, quitted the caftle that flickered his anceftors, and lives near it, in a manfion not very fpacious or fplendid. I have feen no houfes in the Iflands much to be envied for convenience or magnificence, yet they bear teftimony to the progrefs of arts and civility, as they fhew that rapine and furprife are no longer dreaded, and are much more commodious than the ancient fortrefles.

The caftles of the Hebrides, many of

which are ftanding, and many ruined,

were always built upon points of land, on

the margin of the fea. For the choice of

A a 4 this

360 A JOURNEY TO THE

{•his fituation there muft have been fome general reafon, which the change of man- ners has left in obfcurity. They were of no ufe in the days of piracy, as defences of the coaft; for it was equally acceffible in other places. Had they been fea-marks or light-houfes, they would have been of more «fe to the invader than the natives, who could want no fuch directions on their own waters : for a watch-tower, a cottage on a hill would have been better, as it would have commanded a wider view.

If they be confidered merely as places of retreat, the fituation feems not well chofen; for the Laird of an Ifland is fafeft from foreign enemies in the centre: on the coaft he might be mofe fuddenly furprifed than in the inland parts ; and the invaders, if their enterpriie rnifcarried, might more eafily retreat. Some convenience, how- ever, whatever it was, their pofition on the fhore afforded ; for uniformity of prac«*

tice

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c, 361

tlce feldom continues long without good reafon.

A caftle in the Iflands is only a fingle tower of three or four ftories, of which the walls are fometimes eight or nine feet thick, with narrow windows, and clofe winding flairs of ftone. The top rifes in a cone, or pyramid of ftone, encompafled by battlements. The intermediate floors are fometimes frames of timber, as in com-c mon houfes, and fometimes arches of (lone, or alternately ftone and timber ; fo that there was very little danger from fire. In the centre of every floor, from top to hot-? torn, is the chief room, of no great ex- tent, round which there are narrow cavi- ties, or recefles, formed by fmall vacuities, or by a double wall. I know not whether there be ever more than one fire-place. They had not capacity to contain many people, or much provifion ; but their ene- mies could feldom ftay to blockade them ;

for

362 A JOURNEY TO THE

for if they failed in the fir ft attack, their next care was to efcape.

The walls were always too ftrong to be fhaken by fuch defultory hoftilities; the windows were too narrow to be entered, and the battlements too high to be fcaled. The only danger was at the gates, over •which the wall was built with a fquare ca- vity, not unlike a chimney, continued to the top. Through this hollow the defendants let fall ftones upon thofe who attempted to break the gate, and poured down water, perhaps fcalding water, if the attack was made with fire. The caftle of Locbbuy was fecured by double doors, of which the outer was an iron grate.

In every caftle is a well and a dungeon. The ufe of the well is evident. The dun- geon is a deep fubterraneous cavity, walled on the fides, and arched on the top, into which the defcent is through a narrow door,

by

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 363

by a ladder or a rope, fo that it feems im- poffible to efcape, when the rope or ladder is drawn up. The dungeon was, I fup^ pofe, in war, a prifon for fuch captives as were treated with feverity, and, in peace, for fuch delinquents as had committed crimes within the Laird's jurifdi&ion ; for the manfions of many Lairds were, till the late privation of their privileges, the halls of juftice to their own tenants.

As thefe fortifications were the produc- tions of mere neceffity, they are built only for fafety, with little regard to convenience, and with none to elegance or pleafure. It was fufficient for a Laird of the Hebrides, if he had a ftrong houfe, in which he could hide his wife and children from the next Clan. That they are not large nor fplendid, is no wonder. It is not eafy to find how they are raifed, fuch as they are, by men who had no money, in countries where the labourers and artificers could fcarcely be fed.

The

364 A JOURNEY TO THE

The buildings in different parts of the Iflands fliew their degrees of wealth and power. I believe that for all the caftles which I have feen beyond the Tweed, the ruins yet remaining of fome one of thefe which the Englijh bqilt in Wales, would fypply ipaterials.

Thefe caftles afford another evidence that the fidions of romantic chivalry had for their bafis the real manners of the feudal times, when every Lord of a feignory Jived in his hold lawlefs and unaccountable, with all the licentiaufnefs and infolence of unconteiled fuperiority and unprincipled power. The traveller, whoever he might be, coming to the fortified habitation of a Chieftain, would, probably, have been in- terrogated from the battlements, admitted with caution at the gate, introduced to a petty Monarch, fierce with habitual hofti- lity, and vigilant with ignorant fufpicion; who, according to his general temper, or

accidental

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 365

accidental humour, would have feated a ftranger as his gueft at the table, or as a fpy 'confined him in the dungeon.

Lochbuy means the Tellow Lake, which is the name given to an inlet of the fea, upon which the caftle of Mr. Maclean (lands. The reafon of the appellation we did not learn.

We were now to leave the where we had fpent fome weeks with fuf- ficient amufement, and where we had am- plified our thoughts with new fcenes of nature, and new modes of life, More time would have given us a more diftin£t view, but it was neceffary that Mr. Bof* well fhould return before the courts of juf- tice were opened ; and it was not proper to live too long upon hofpitality, however liberally imparted.

Of thefe iflands it muft be confeffed, that they have not many allurements, but to

the

366 A JOURNEY TO THE

the mere lover of naked nature. The in- habitants are thin, provifions are fcarce, and defolation and penury give little pleafure.

The people colle&ively confidered are not few, though their numbers are fmall in proportion to the fpace which they oc- cupy. Mull is faid to contain fix thoufand, and Sky fifteen thoufand. Of the compu- tation refpedling Mull, I can give no ac- count; but when I doubted the truth of the numbers attributed to Sky^ one of the Minifters exhibited fuch fads as conquered my incredulity.

Of the proportion, which the product of any region bears to the people, an eftimate is commonly made according to the pecuni- ary price of the neceflaries of life ; a prin- ciple of judgment which is never cer- tain, becaufe it fuppofes what is far from truth, that the value of money is always

the

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 367

the fame, and fo meafures an unknown quantity by an uncertain ftandard. It is competent enough when the markets of the fame country, at different times, and thofe times not too diftant, are to be compared ; but of very little ufe for the purpofe of mak- ing one nation acquainted with the ftate of another. Provifions, though plenti- ful, are fold in places of great pecuniary opulence for nominal prices, to which, however fcarce, where gold and filver arc yet fcarcer, they can never be raifed.

In the Weftern I/lands there is fo little in- ternal commerce, that hardly any thing has a known or fettled rate. The price of things brought in, or carried out, is to be confidered as that of a foreign market; and even this there is fome difficulty in difco- vering, becaufe their denominations of quantity are different from ours; and when there is ignorance on both fides, no appeal can be made to a common meafure.

This,

A^JOURNEY TO THE

This, however, is not the only impedi- ment. The Scots, with a vigilance of jea- loufy which never goes to fleep, always fufpecl: that an Eng!?JJoman defpifes them for their poverty, and to convince him that they are not lefs rich than their neigh- bours, are fure to tell him a price higher than the true. When Lejley, two hundred years ago, related fo punclilioufly, that a hundred hen eggs, new laid, were fold in the Iflands for a penny, he fuppofed that no inference could poffibly follow, but that eggs were in great abundance.. Pofterity has fince grown wifer; and having learn- ed, that nominal and real value may differ, they now tell no fuch ftories, left the foreigner fhould happen to collecl, not that eggs are many, but that pence are few.

Money and wealth have by the ufe of commercial language been fo long con- founded, that they are commonly fuppofed to be the fame; and this - prejudice has

fpread

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 369

fpread fo widely in Scotland, that I know not whether I found man or woman, whom I interrogated concerning payments of mo- ney, that could furmount the illiberal defire of deceiving me, by reprefenting every thing as dearer than it is*

From Locbbuy we rode a very few miles to the fide of Mult, which faces Scotland^ where, having taken leave of our kind pro-^ tedor, Sir Allan^ we embarked in a boat, in which the feat provided for our accommo- dation was a heap of rough brufhwood ; and on the twenty-fecond of Qttober repofed at a tolerable inn on the main land.

On the next day we began out1 journey fouthwards* The weather was tempeftu^ ous* For half the day the ground was rough, and our horfes were ftill fmall. Had they required much reftraint, we might have been reduced to difficulties ; for I think we had amongft us but one bridle* Bb We

370 A JOURNEY TO THE

We fed the poor animals liberally, and they performed their journey well. In the lat- ter part of the day, we came to a firm and fmooth road, made by the foldiers, on which we travelled with great fecurity, bufied with contemplating the fcene about us. The night came on while we had yet a great part of the way to go, though not fo dark but that we could difcern the ca- taracts which poured down the hills on one fide, and fell into one general channel that ran with great violence on the other. The wind was loud, the rain was heavy, and the whiftling of the blaft, the fall of the fhower, the rufh of the cataracts, and the roar of the torrent, made a nobler cho- rus of the rough mufic of nature, than it had ever been my chance to hear before. The ftreams, which ran crofs the way from the hills to the main current, were fo fre- quent, that after a while I began to count them ; and, in ten miles, reckoned fifty- five, probably miffing fome, and having 12 let

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 371

let fome pafs before they forced tfoemfelves upon my notice. At lafl we came to I/jv r- ar)\ where we found an inn, not only com- modious, but magnificent.

The difficulties of peregrination were now at an end. Mr. Bofweli had the ho- nour of being known to the Duke of Ar- gy/e, by whom we were very kindly enter- tained at his fplendid feat, and fupplied with conveniences for furveying his fpa- cious park and rifing forefts.

After two days ftay at Inverary we pro- ceeded fouchward over Glencoe, a black and dreary region, now made eafily paff- able by a military road, which rifes fronn either end of the g/en, by an acclivity not dangeroufly fteep, but fuinciently labori- ous. In the middle, at the top of the hill, is a feat with this infcription, jRr/?, and be thankful* Stones were placed to mark the diftanceS) which the inhabitants have taken B b a away,

37* A JOURNEY TO THE

away, refolved, they faid, to have no new miles.

In this rainy feafon the hills ftreamed with waterfalls, which, crofting the way, formed currents on the other fide, that ran in contrary directions as they fell to the north or fouth of the fummit. Being, by the favour of the Duke, well mounted, I went up and down the hill with great con- venience.

From Glencoe we palled through a plea- fant country to the banks of Loch Lomond^ and were received at the houfe of Sir Barnes Coljuhoun, who is owner of almoft all the thirty iflands of the Loch, which we went in a boat next morning to furvey. The heavtnefs of the rain fhortened our voyage, but we landed on one ifland planted with yew, and flocked with deer, and on another, containing perhaps not more than half an acre, remarkable for the

ruins

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 373

ruins of an old caftle, on which the ofprey builds her annual neft. Had Loch Lomond been in a happier climate, it would have been the boaft of wealth and vanity to own one of the little fpots which it inclofes, and to have employed upon it all the arts of embellilhment. But as it is, the iflets, which court the gazer at a diftance, dif- guft him at his approach, when he finds, inftead of loft lawns and fhady thickets, no- thing more than uncultivated ruggednefs.

Where the Loch difcharges itfelf into a river, called the Leven, we paffed a night with Mr. Smollet) a relation of Dodor Smol- let, to whofe memory he has raifed an obelifk on the bank near the houfe in which he was born. The civility and refpecT: which we found at every place, it is un- grateful to omit, and tedious to repeat. Here we were met by a poft-chaife, that conveyed us to Glafgow.

Bb3 To

374 A JOURNEY TO THE

To defcribe a city fo much frequented as GlafgoiV) is unnecelTary. The profperity of its commerce appears by the greatoefs of many private houfes, and a general appear- ance of wealth. It is the only epifcopal city whofe cathedral was left (landing in the rage of Reformation. It is now di- vided into many feparate places of worihip, which, taken all together, compofe a great pile, that had been fome centuries in build- ing, but was never finifhed ; for the change of religion intercepted its progrefs, before the crofs ifle was added, which feems eflen- tial to a Gotbick cathedral.

The college has not had a fufficient (hare of the increafing magnificence of the place. The feflion was begun ; for it commences

on the tenth of October, and continues to

f

the tenth of June; but the ftudents appear- ed not numerous, being, I fuppofe, not yet returned from their feveral homes. The divifion of the academical year into one

feflion,

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 375

feffion, and one recefs, feems to me bet- ter accommodated to the prefent ftate of life, than that variegation of time by terms and vacations derived from diftant centuries, in which it was probably conve- nient, and ftill continued in the 'Englijh univerfities. So many folid months as the Scotch fcheme of education joins together, allow and encourage a plan for each part of the year; but with us, he that has fettled himfelf to ftudy in the college is foon tempted into the country, and he that has adjufted his life in the country, is furnmon- ed back to his college.

Yet when I have allowed to the univer- fities of Scotland a more rational diftribu- tion of time, I have given them, fo far as my inquiries have informed me, all that they can claim. The iludents, for the moft part, go thither boys, and depart before they are men ; they carry with them little fundamental knowledge, and therefore the B b 4 fuper-

3;6 A JOURNEY TO THE

fuperftrudture cannot be lofty. The gram- mar fchools are not generally well fup- plied ; for the character of a fchool-mafter being there lefs honourable than in England? is feldom accepted by men who are capable to adorn it, and where the fchool has been deficient, the college can effedl little.

Men bred in the univerfities of Scotland cannot be expected to be often decorated with the fplendours of ornamental erudi- tion, b«t they obtain a mediocrity of know- ledge, between learning and ignorance, not inadequate to the purpofes of common life, 'which is, 1 believe, very widely diffufcd among them, and which countenanced in general by a national combination fo in-? vjdious, that their friends cannot defend it, and a^uated in particulars by a fpirit of enterprife, fo vigorous, that their enemies are conftrained to praife it, enables them to find, or to make their way to employ-? njent, riches, and diiUndion.

From

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 377

From Glafgow we direded our courfe to duMnleck) an eftate devolved, through a long feries of anceftors, to Mr. BofaelP* father, the prefent poffeffor. In our way \ve found feveral places remarkable enough in themfelves, but already defcribed by thofe who viewed them at more leifure, or with much more (kill ; and flopped two days at Mr. Campbeir^ a gentleman married to Mr. Bofwelf* fitter.

i which fignifies * jlony fal£>

feems not now to have any particular claim to its denomination. It is a diftricl: gene- rally level, and fufficiently fertile, but like all the Wcjlern fide of Scotland) incommoded by very frequent rain. It was, with the reft of the country, generally naked, till the prefent pofleffor finding, by the growth of fome (lately trees near his old caftle, that the ground was favourable enough to tim-> ber, adorned it very diligently with annual plantations.

Lord

378 A JOURNEY TO THE-

Lord Aitcbinleck^ who is one of the Judges of Scotland^ and therefore not wholly at leifure for domeftick bufmefs or pleafure, has yet found time to make improvements in his patrimony. He has built a houfe of hewn ftone, very ftately and durable, and has advanced the value of his lands with great tendernefs to his tenants.

I was, however, lefs delighted with the elegance of the modern manfion, than with the fullen dignity of the old caftle. I clam- bered with Mr. Bofwell among the ruins, which afford ftriking images of ancient life. It is, like other caftles, built upon a point of rock, and was, I believe, an- ciently furrounded with a moat. There is another rock near it, to which the draw- bridge, when it was let down, is faid to have reached. Here, in the ages of tumult and rapiae, the Laird was furprifed and killed by the neighbouring Chief, who

perhaps

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 379

perhaps might have extinguished the fa- mily, had he not in a few days been ieized and hanged, together with his Tons, by Doughs, who came with his forces to the relief of Auihinleck.

At no great diftance from the houfe runs a pleafing brook, by a red rock, out of which has been hewn a very agreeable and commodious fummer- houfe, at lefs ex- pence, as Lord Anchinleck told me, than would have been required to build a room of the fame dimenfions. The rock feems to have no more dampnefs than any other wall. Such opportunities of variety it is judicious not to negledt.

We now returned to Edinburgh^ where I pa (Ted fome days with men of learning, whofe names want no advancement from my commemoration, or with women of elegance, which perhaps difclaims a pe- dant's praife.

The

3$o A JOURNEY TO THE

The converfation of the Scots grows every day lefs unpleafing to the Englijh\ their peculiarities wear faft away ; their dialed: is likely to become in half a century provin- cial and ruftick, even to themfelves. The great, the learned, the ambitious, and the vain, all cultivate the EngiiJJj phrafe, and the EngHJh pronunciation, and in fplendid companies Scotch is not much heard, ex- cept now and then from an old Lady.

There is one fubjeft of philofophical cu- riofity to be found in Edinburgh, which no other city has to fhew ; a college of the deaf and dumb, who are taught to fpeak, to read, to wrire, and to pradife arirhme- tick, by a gentleman, whofe name is Braid- wood. The number which attends him is, I think, about twelve, which he brings together into a little fchool, and inftruds according to their feveral degrees of proficiency.

I do

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 38*

I do not mean to mention the inftru&ion of the deaf as new* Having been firft prac- tifed upon the ion of a conftable of Spain, it was afterwards cultivated with much emu- lation in England, by Wallis and Holder^ and was lately profefled by Mr. Baker* who once flattered me with hopes of feeing his method published. How far any for- mer teachers have fuccceded, it is not eafy to know ; the improvement of Mr. Braid-" wood's pupils is wonderful. They not only fpeak, write, and under/land what is writ- ten, but if he that fpeaks looks towards them, and modifies his organs by diftinct and full utterance, they know fo well what is fpoken, that it is an expreffion fcarcely figurative to fay, they hear with the eye. That any have attained to the power men- tioned by Burnet, of feeling founds, by lay- ing a hand on the fpeaker's mouth, I know not ; but 1 have feen fo much, that I can be- lieve more ; a imgle word, or a fhort fenrence, I think, may pofTibly be fo diftinguiflied.

It

382 A JOURNEY TO THE

It will readily be fuppofed by thofe that confider this fubject, that Mr. Braidwoocfs fcholars fpell accurately. Orthography is vitiated among fuch as learn firft to fpeak, and then to write, by imperfect notions of the relation between letters and vocal utter- ance ; but to thofe (indents every character is of equal importance ; for letters are to them not fymbols of names, but of things , when they write they do not reprefent a found, but delineate a form.

This fchool I vifited, and found fome of the fcholars waiting for their mafter, whom they are faid to receive at his entrance with fmiling countenances and fparkling eyes, delighted with the hope of new ideas. One of the young Ladies had her flate before her, on which I wrote a queflion confifting of three figures, to be multiplied by two figures. She looked upon it, and quiver- ing her fingers in a manner which I thought very pretty, but of which I know not whe- ther

WESTERN ISLANDS, &c. 383

ther it was art or play, multiplied the fum regularly in two lines, obferving the 'deci- mal place ; but did not add the two lines to- gether, probably difdaining fo eafy an ope- ration. I pointed at the place where the fum total fhould ftand, and ihe noted it with fuch expedition as feemed to fhew that fhe had it only to write.

It was pleafing to fee one of the mod defperate of human calamities capable of fo much help : whatever enlarges hope, will exalt courage; after having feen the deaf taught arithmetick, who would be afraid to cultivate the Hebrides?

Such are the things which this journe7 hio given me 211 opportunity of feeing,

* fuch are the reflections which that fight has raifed. Having pafled my time alinoft wholly in cities, I may have been furprifed by modes of life and appearances of nature, that are familiar to men of

wider

384 A JOURNEY, &c.

wider furvey and more varied converfation. Novelty and ignorance muft always be reci- procal, and I cannot but be confcious that my thoughts on national manners, are the thoughts of one who has feen but little.

H E END.

eforc

BINDING SECT. OCT 2 3 1967

Johnson, Samuel

880 A journey to the Western

H4.J6 islands of Scotland

1791 New ed.

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