Lachesis Lapponica,

OR A

TOUR IN LAPLAND,

NOW FIRST PUBLISHED

FROM THE

ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT JOURNAL

OF THE CELEBRATED

LINN^US;

BY

JAMES EDWARD SMITH, M. D. F.R.S. etc.

PRESIDENT OF THE LINNEAN SOCIETY.
IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. n.

" Ulterius nihil est, nisi non habitabile frigus."

Ovin.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR WHITE AND COCHRANE, HORACE'S HEAD,

FLEET-STREET,

BT RICHARD TAYLOR AND CO., SHOX-LANE.

1811.

^/v;-

LlL-7

m

JOURNEY

TO

LAPLAlVD.

In the latter part of this day, Jidi/ 15thj
I set out on my return from the low grounds
of Norway. The heat was very powerful
as we began to ascend the mountains.
When we reached what had seemed to uå
from below the summit of a hill, we saw
just as lofty an eminence before us, and
this was the case nine or ten successive
times. I had no idea of such mountains
before. The elevation of this hill cannot
be taken by any geometrical instrument,
as the summit is not visible, even at some
miles' distance. I believe its height must
exceed a Swedish mile, but to climb it was
worse than going two miles any other way.

VOL. II. B

Ö THE LAPLAND ALPS.

1. The sharp winds. In the early part
of my journey, repeated exposure to stormy
weather rendered my eyes sore, so that I
became unable to open them wide, and was
obliged to keep them half shut. How
much more must this be the case with those
who dwell on the alps, where there is a
perpetual wind !

2. The snow, the whiteness of which,
when the sun shone upon it, was very trou-
blesome to me. To this the alpine Lap-
landers are continually exposed.

3. The fogs. This day I found myself
very comfortable in my walk over the icy
mountain, till the fog, mist, or cloud,
whichever it might be called, came about
me, rendering the eyes of my interpreter, as
well as my own, so weak and relaxed, that
we could not open them wide without an
effort. Such must often be the case with
the Laplanders.

4. Smoke. How is it possible that these
people should not be blear-eyed, when they
are so continually shut up in their huts,

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 7:

where the smoke has no outlet but by the
hole in the roof, and consequently fills every
body's eyes as it passes !

5. The severity of the cold in this coun-
try must also contribute to the same incon-
venience.

The mountain Laplanders, or those who
live in the alps, build no huts ; they have
only tents made in the following manner.

The first figure represents two connected

THE LAPLAND ALPS.

beams, which compose the frame-work of
one side of the hut ; and these meet at the

THE LAPLAND ALPS. Q

top with two similar ones, forming the op-
posite side. A soUtary beam is placed on
each side, in the middle of the arch formed
by these four, so that the whole edifice has
six angles. Two more slender sticks, but
equally tall, are then erected between every
two angles, or main ribs, of the building.
Over the whole is spread the covering of
the tent (made of walmal cloth). The
usual height of the structure is about a
fathom and half, and the breadth two fa-
thoms. A flap of cloth is left, so as to
open and shut by way of a door, between
two of the main beams.

When they lie doM'n to rest, and are fear-
ful of being incommoded by heat, they fix
a hook through the middle of the coverlet,
which raises it perhaps an ell and a half
above them, and under this canopy they
repose.

The women wear several things attached
to their belt, as a leather bag,/*^. 1, con-
taining a spoon, as well as a pipe.^/?,g'. 3.

10

THE LAPLAND ALPS.

jp/"-. C. A knife in a case.

4. A thimble made of
leather, which goes round
the finger.

5. A pin-cushion, with
a brass cover which pulls
down over it like a cap.

6. Several large brass

rmgs.

The belt itself is orna-
mented with tin or silver
embroidery, and pearls.

^6"

R

THE LAPLAND ALPS.

11

The men wear, instead
of the above, a kind of bag,
hanging down exactly in
front. This is divided in-
ternally into two pockets,
containing their tobacco-
pipe, tinder-box, tobacco,
and a spoon made of rein-
deer's horn, of an oblono-
flattish shape.

The women often wear a
similar bag, but of a smaller
^ize.

12 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

When the reindeer are milked, as the v
cast their coat during the whole course of
the summer, the hair flies about very in-
conveniently, often covering the milk in
the pail. Some hair sticks also to the dugs
of the animal, and it is found necessary to
clean and soften them before the milking
is begun. This is generally done by dip-
ping the fingers into the milk M'hich may
be in the pail already, and washing them
therewith. Whenever it happens that one
of the reindeer strays from its master's
herd to that of a neighbour, the person to
whom it comes milks it, without any offence
to the proper owner. Such an accident
often happens ; for these animals love so-
ciety, and the more of them there are to-
gether, the better they thrive and enjoy
themselves. They are marked at the ears,
like cows, that every person may know his
own.

The furniture of these Laplanders con-
sists of kettles and pots, made sometimes
of brass, sometimes of copper ; rarely of

THE LAPLAND ALFS. 13

stone, on account of the weight. They
have also hemispherical bowls, with han-
dles, generally made of the hard knotty
excrescences of the birch. These are often
large enough to hold four or five cans, (of
three quarts each,) and formed so neatly,
that any one would believe them to be turn-
ed. Into these they pour what is to be
served up at their meals. Plates they have
none, but in their stead boards, of an ob-
long shape, are used for meat ; which, pre-
vious to its distribution among the guests,
is served up in round pails. Closely plat-
ted baskets, or tubs, always circular, are
used to keep cheese in. There is moreover
an oblong barrel, for the purpose of holding
jumomjolk {vol, 1. p. 273).

Within the tent are spread on each side
skins of reindeer, with the hairy part upper-
most, on which the people either sit or lie
down, for the tent is not lofty enough to
allow any one to stand upright. In the
centre of the whole is the fire-place, or a
square enclosure of low stones about the

14 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

ash-heap. The back part of the tent, be-
hind the fire-place, is entirely occupied
either with brush- wood or branches of trees,
behind which, or, most commonly, before
it next the fire, the household furniture is
placed. In the roof are two racks, suspend-
ed over the reindeer skins on each side,
upon which cheeses are laid to dry, and
before these, towards the entrance, hang
rennet-bags, filled with milk, preserved for
winter use.

The annexed figure is a sort of plan of
the floor of one of these Lapland tents,
a is the fire-place, b, b, reindeer skins, six
in number, three at the right hand, on en-
tering the tent, and as many at the left,
c lara;e fire-wood. d cheese-vessels, e
kettle, with its lid. f, behind the first rein-
deer skin, is the place of the harness, g
a barrel or cask, h a store of skins and
hair of the reindeer, i the milk-strainer,
with its flat cover.

THE LAPLAND ALPS.

15

The following figure represents the roof
of the tent, as seen from below, a, a, are
the racks on which the cheeses are ranged,
b outlet for the smoke, c, c, rennet-bags
containing milk, d plat of hair from the
reindeer's tail, to strain milk through, e
the flat cover of the milk-strainer; see i
in the former fi2:ure.

16

THE LAPLAND ALPSr

Such was the dwelling, and I shall now
describe some of its inhabitants. I sat
myself down at the right hand of the en-
trance, with my legs across. Opposite to
me sat an old woman, with one leg bent,
the other straight. Her dres» came no
lower than her knees, but she had a belt
embroidered with silver. Her grey hair
hung straight down, and she had a wrinkled

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 1?

face, with blear eyes. Her countenance was
altogether of the Lapland cast. Her fingers
were scraggy and withered. * * * * Next
to her sat her husband, a young man, six-
and-thirty years of age, who, for the sake
of her large herds of reindeer, had already
been married ten years to this old hag.
When the Laplanders sit, they either cross
their legs under them, or one knee is bent,
the other straight.

As a defence against wind and snow, a
sort of hood, called iiiaJmiphata, is worn
over the cap. It is made of red cloth, of
the shape of a truncated cone, dilated at
the bottom, and is four palms high, three
palms in circumference at the upper part,
and six at the bottom. This covers the
cheeks, as well as the neck and shoulders,
the eyes and mouth only being exposed.
In the back part, at bottom, is a loop,
through which goes a riband to secure the
whole from being blown off, by being tied
round the body under the arms.

In winter-time the women wear breeches,
made exactly like those worn by the men

VOL. II. c

18 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

as well as boots, though the latter come no
hijihcr than the knees. It is wonderful
how they are able, in the severity of winter,
to follow the reindeer, which are never at
rest, but keep feeding by night as well as
by day. They have indeed small sheds or
huts, here and there, into which they oc-
casionally drive their reindeer, but with the
greatest difficulty.

During the night we passed over the
beautiful lake of Wirisiar, The weather
was very cold and foggy.

Juhj 17.

In the morning we arrived at the abode
of Mr. Kock, the under bailiff^, where I
could not but admire the fairness of the
bodies of these dark-faced people, which
rivalled that of any lady whate^er.

Here I saw some Leming Rats, called in
Lapland Lunimick. The body of these
animals is grey ; face and shoulders black ;
the loins blackish ; tail, as well as ears,
very short. Tliey feed on grass and rein-
deer-moss {Lichen rani^iferinns)^ and are

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 19

not eatable. They live, for the most part,
in the alps ; but in some years thousands
of them come down into the woodland
countries, passing right over lakes, bogs,
and marshes, by which great numbers
perish. They are by no means timid, but
look out, from their holes, at passengers,
like a dog. They bring forth five or six at
a birth. Their burrows are about half a
quarter (of an ell?) deep.

Here I found the little Gentian, or Cen-
taury, with a hyacinthine flower in five
notched segments {Gentiana nivalis).

July 18.

I gathered and examined the little
Catchfly, which resembles the common one
(Lychnis Viscaria) except in being smaller,
and not at all viscid. (L. alpina; see
V. 1. p. 302. n. 46.) The root is perennial.
Leaves oblong-lanceolate, approaching to
linear. Stem simple, round, smooth, bear-
ing two, three, or four pairs of opposite
leaves. From the uppermost pair springs
c 2

20 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

one flower-stalk on each side, bearing a
single flower, between two small opposite
purple leaves. A little higher up, two other
simple flower-stalks come forth in the same
manner, with two coloured leaves at their
base, the stem being thus extended straight
upwards. Calyx ovate, erect, coloured,
with five teeth. Petals five, their disk
cloven half way down ; the crown with two
teeth. Stamens 10. Pistils 5.

After passing the alps, we grew thirsty ;
but the water we met with proved less plea-
sant than usual, having an earthy taste,
although it flowed from plentiful stores of
ice and snow. My Laplander took his
knife and cut out a lump of ice, which he
sucked by way of refreshment. I found
this mode of drinking agreeable enough,
the ice being very palatable, and we both
partook of it largely. He told me it was
considered very wholesome for the chest.
Indeed I learned, both from the Laplan-
ders and my own experience, that pure wai-
ter, however cold, is never hurtful, provided
it be taken in moderation.

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 21

I was desirous of having my linen wash-
ed ; but the people understood my request
as little as if I had spoken Hebrew, not a
single article of their own apparel being
made of linen. As their food is of animal
origin, so is their clothing, which consists
either of skins, the produce of the coun-
try, or of the woollen cloth called w aimed,
which they purchase. In the winter they
wear Lapland boots, which come up as
high as the middle of the thighs, without
any stockings, only the feet are protected
with what they term Skogräs {Carex syl-
vatica Fl. Brit.), as already mentioned.
Next to the body they wear a jacket of
rc^almal, and above that a lappmudd, or
coat of reindeer skin, with the hairy side
turned inwards. In summer they turn
that side outwards. The boots used by
the women do not reach higher than the
knee.

July 19.
I remarked with astonishment how great-

22 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

ly the reindeer are incommoded in hot wea-
ther, insomuch that they cannot stand still
a minute, no nota moment, without chang-
ing their posture, starting, puffing and
blowing continually, and all on account of a
little fly. Even though amongst a herd of
perhaps five hundred reindeer there were not
above ten of these flies, every one of the
herd trembled and kept pushing its neigh-
bour about. The fly meanwhile was try-
ing every means to get at them; but it no
sooner touched any part of their bodies,
than they made an immediate eftbrt to
shake it off. In one respect this season is
peculiarly propitious to the insect, as the
reindeer's coat is now very thin, most of the
hair of last year's growth being fallen off.
I caught one of these insects as it was fly-
ing along with its tail protruded, which had
at its extremity a small linear orifice, per-
fectly white. The tail itself consisted of
four or five tubular joints, slipping into
each other, like a pocket spying-glass, which
this fly, like others, has a power of contract-

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 23

ing at pleasure. See what I have already
mentioned (toL 1. p. 280), concerning the
spots in the reindeer skins, as caused by
this insect (Oestrus Tar audi).

When the Lapland children are laid into
the cradle, they seldom cry, although their
hands are confined down to their sides.
If they cry, it is generally from hunger.
The cradle is placed in a sloping position,
so that the child's head is half upright.
The bottom of the cradle is hollowed out
of a piece of fir wood, consequently not
very heavy. Over the head of the child is
a hoop forming an arch, to which a trans-
verse bow is fixed, the whole being covered
with cloth, like the rest of the cradle. In
summer the child lies without any covering
of reindeer hair, only having under its head
and body either some walmal cloth, fur, or
moss.

The Laplanders use a curious kind of
box or basket, which they call kisa, for
keeping or carrying various articles. It is
of an oval form, with the bottom and sides

24 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

made of fir, like ii box, being about a foot
and half long, a foot broad, and six inches
deep, with a transverse opening in the bot-
tom to admit a part of the saddle of the
reindeer. The contents are confined by a
lacing of cords, that goes from side to side
across the top, wiiich is otherwise open.
Two such boxes, each weighing about two
pounds, are placed like panniers upon the
reindeer; for that animal cannot carry
above four or five pounds weight, and the
castrated males only are used as beasts of
burthen at all. A leather thong crosses
the saddle, connected with another longer
one, which goes round the chest of the
animal at one part, and round its thighs,
like the breechings of a horse, at the other.
A pack-saddle, made either of reindeer
skin, or of walmal cloth, with a bow of
spruce fir, goes across the back, and is con-
nected with the leather thongs just men-
tioned, being further secured by a girth
under the belly. Against the sides of this
pack-saddle the above-described boxes or

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 25

baskets are hung and fastened, the trans-
verse chink in the bottom of each being
fitted to the saddle.

I observed that the Laplanders, both
men and women, after borrowing a lighted
pipe, and passing it from one to another,
retain a mouthful of smoke as Ions: as
possible, that they may enjoy as much of
the flavour as they can. Old men chew
tobacco.

The tendons in the legs of the reindeer
serve to make thread or cord. In each hind
leg are two tendons, one before the other;
in each fore leg one behind and two or
three before it. These the Laplanders lay
hold of with their mouths, split and moisten
them, rubbing them from time to time with
reindeer marrow, preserved in bladders for
that use, in order to render them as sup-
ple as possible. Each string is made sharp
at both ends, and drawn through holes of
various sizes inan instrument made on pur-
pose (of wood or metal) to render it as fine
and smooth as they can. Two such threads

26 THE LAPLAND ALTS.

are then twisted together by means of the
hand upon the thigh or knee. They are
generally held with the left hand, and twist-
ed with the right upon the left knee,
proceeding downwards, the thread being
moistened from time to time with saliva.

In this part of the country the Empetrum
(Crow- or Crake-berry) serves for firing.
Otherwise the most common fuel is the
dwarf Birch (Befula nana), and the Wil-
low with lanceolate white hairy leaves (Salix
lappomun), so very abundant on the Lap-
land alps. The dwarf birch bears very
small leaves in these elevated regions.

When the children are taken out of the
cradle, which I have already described
[vol. 2. p. 23), they are dressed in a small
garment of reindeer skin. They are usually
able to stand on their legs by the time they
are four months old, and turn their head
and eyes about with a degree of intelligence
hardly ever seen in our children at that
early age.

I never met with any people who lead

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 27

such easy happy lives as the Laplanders.
In summer they make two meals of milk
in the course of the day, and when they
have gone through their allotted task of
milking their reindeer, or making cheese,
they resign themselves to indolent tranquil-
lity, not knowing what to do next. In winter
their food is cheese, taken once or twice a
day, but in the evening they eat meat. A
single reindeer supplies four persons with
food for a week.

This animal has no gall-bladder, nor
could I discover the insertion of the biliary
duct. The liver however is of a larsie size.
The first stomach is large, with a thick ori-
fice, and lined with a fine cellular network
like that of a cow, being moreover longi-
tudinally plaited. The Laplanders are cu-
rious dissectors. They take out each of
the stomachs separately, with as much care
as a professed anatomist.

The thread made of sinews, as above
described, is never used for sewing nalmal,
■which makes their summer clothing, but
only for g:arments composed of fur or lea-

2S THE LAPLAN'D ALPS.

ther. Their shoes indeed are mended, as
well as made, with it. This last busmess
fells to the lot of the women. The leather
is purchased.

A good ox may be bought in Norway
for three rix-dollars ; a female reindeer for
one rix-dollar ; a castrated male for from
twelve to eighteen dollars, silver coin ; and ,
a fawn is worth from twelve to eighteen
dollars of copper money. Three reindeer,
therefore, are but equal to the value of a
common ox.

I left this place in the evening, proceed-
ing on ray journev on foot, and walking all
night long, till three o'clock in the after-
noon of the following day. Thus I walked
six miles at a stretch, before I arrived at
another Lapland hut.

Nothing occurred particularly worth no-
ticing by the way, except an Andromeda
(tetragona) with quadrangular shoots, and

THE LAPLAND ALP«;. 2^

flowers from the bosoms of the leaves. The
stem is woody, procumbent, naked, thread-
shaped, variously divided. Branches partly
erect, entirely covered \vith leaves, which
are oblong, obtuse, somewhat rounded,
concave, keeled, sessile, disposed in an
imbricated manner. Flower-stalks solitary,
from the bosoms of the leaves, erect, thread-
shaped, whitish, each bearing a drooping
flower. Calyx five-cleft, purplish, with
ovate straisiht seo-ments. Petal one, half-
ovate or bellshaped, exactly resembling the
lily of the valley, cut half way down into
five erect acute sesrments. Stamens ten,
very short, with horned anthers, scarcely-
longer than the calyx. Pistil simple, the
length of the calyx. Pericarp roundish,
with five obtuse angles, erect, of five cells,
with several seeds *.

* The discovery of the plant in question is related
in the Tlora Lapponica in so interesting a manner,
that we cannot refrain from translating the pissage.
See the second edition, p. 135.

'' I met with this plant but once, and that through-

30 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

July 20.
The people here use a kind of bread
called Blodhrod (Blood Bread), made of
small fresh fish, bruised and mixed with a
little quantity of flour. This is baked or
roasted on a jack before the fire, but it is
used only in hard times.

out a journey of four hours, over the celebrated
mountain of Wallivari in the district of Lulea, to-
wards a tract of country which lies about half way
between the northern and western part, where it grew
in great abundance.

«* Whilst I was walking quickly along, in a profuse
perspiration, facing the cold wind, at midnight ; if
I may call it night when the sun was shining without
setting at all ; still anxiously inquiring of my inter-
preter how near we were to a Lapland dwelling, which
I had for two hours been expecting, though I knew
not its precise situation ; casting my eager eyes around
me in all directions, I perceived as it were the shadow
of this plant, but did not stop to examine it, taking
it for the E^npetntm. But after going a few steps
further, an idea of its being something I was un-
acquainted with came across my mind, and T turned
back ; when I should again have taken it for the Em-
petrum, had not its greater height caused me to con-
sider it with more attention. I know not what it is

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 31

There are no common flies, bugs, nor
snakes, on these Alps.

The Laplanders however abound with
lice, which in winter are allowed to freeze,
when they turn red, and are easily killed.
In summer they come forth from the clothes,
if exposed to the sun, and are then de-

that so deceives the sight in our Alps during the
night, as to render objects far less distinct than in the
middle of the day, though the sun shines equally bright.
The sun being near the horizon, spreads its rays in
such a horizontal direction, that a hat can scarcely
protect our eyes : besides, the shadows of plants are
so infinitely extended, and so confounded with each
other, from the tremulous agitation caused by the
blustering wind, that objects very different in them-
selves are scarcely to be distinguished from each other.
Having gathered one of these plants, I looked about
and fotind several niore in the neighbourhood, all on
the north side, where they grew in plenty; but I
never met with the same in any other place afterwards.
As at this time thc-y had lost their flowers, and were
ripening seed, it was not till after I had sought for a
very long time that I met with a single flower, which
was white, shaped like a lily of the valley, but with
five sharper divisions."

S2 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

stroyed ^vith the nails, these people having
no firelock to shoot them with*.

I was informed that in this neighbour-
hood the inoculated small-pox is remark-
ably fatal. If the patients have but seventy
or eighty pustules, they die of it as of the
plague. They fly to the mountains, when
infected, and die. The same is the case
with the measles. It appears that both
these diseases are aggravated by the vio-
lent cold, whence the patients die in so
miserable a manner -f.

Swelled necks (goitres) are frequent.

Sore eyes are universal, especially in the
spring, when the Laplanders remove to-
wards the Alps. The glittering of the
snow has then a pernicious effect on their
eyes. Aged people are very often blind.

* This strange passage is presumed to allude to a
little gun, four or five inches long, still shown in the
arsenal at Stockholm, with which vulgar report says
the famous Queen Christina used to kill fleas.

t It is not impossible that Linnaeus might be mis-
led here by the prejudices of his time, or by those of
the people from whom he obtained his account.

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 33

Female obstructions are rare, though
sometimes met with among the better sort
of people ; neither are the catamenia im-
moderate, nor in common so copious as
with us. The Lapland women are entirely
ignorant of the leucorrhcea.
. Of hysterics I met with but two cases.
One maid-servant, twenty-four years of age^
had the complaint about once a year ;
another, about thirty, was attacked with
it monthly during the summer.

Epilepsy sometimes occurs. Headachs
are. frequent; hence the forehead is often
seen full of scars (from the application of
their toule, ox moxa ; see vol, 1. p. 274).

Elderly people are often hard of hearing.

The sleep of the Laplanders is commonly
sound, and they are in the habit of sleep-
ing or waking whenever they please.

A swelling, or falling down, of the uvula
is not uncommon, in which case they fre-
quently cut off the part affected.

When children are troubled with swell-
ings in the glands about the throat, the

VOL. II. D

34 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

usual remedy is to prick the part, and ^nck
out the blood, which is considered as a
speedy and effectual cure. If this method
be not adopted, they suppose the blood
would rise to the head, and cause cutaneous
eruptions there.

Coughs are of very rare occurrence, not-
withstanding the constant practice of drink*
ing snow- and ice-water, even after swallow-
ing pure grease or fat, which perhaps may
prevent its bad consequences. However
this may be, the Laplanders seldom die
from catching cold. Cases of phthisis^ or
consumption, do indeed now and then oc-
cur among them, and pleurisies are very
common, especially in spring and autumn.
Lumbago, or pain in the back, is most pre-
valent during the summer. For this, as I
have already mentioned, vol. 1. p. 274fy
actual cautery, by means of their toule, or
rnoxa, is often applied.

Bleeding at the nose chiefly happens
among those Lapland women who are in
the service of the colonists, and who, in

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 35

consequence of certain obstructions, are
subject also to (Edematous swellings of the
feet.

I have not heard of a single instance of
jaundice.

Some elderly people are afflicted with
asthma ; and hoarsenesses now and then
occur in the winter and spring.

The stone and gout are entirely unknown
amongst the Laplanders.

Swellings of the lower extremities are
uncommon, as these people are in the habit
of swathing their legs, which renders them
all slender and well shaped. All dropsical
complaints indeed are very rare, though I
did meet with one case of this kind.

Of tenesmus I happened to hear of but
a single instance, though the Laplanders
eat so much cheese and drink water.

Disorders in the stomach are not un-
common, which are frequently attended
with diarrhcea^ and in some years this dis-
ease is contagious.

The specimens of minerals which I had
D 2

36 THE LAPLAXD ALTS.

collected in the course of my tour were
now become numerous, and consisted of
the following articles.

1. An alum, as I presume, of a club
shape, without any taste, seeming as it
were dissolved in fluor, from the mountains
to the north of the lake Skalk, near Kio-
mitis. (See vol. l.j). 267.)

2. Native alum in its own matrix ; from
the same place. {A lumen nativum, Syst,
Nat. vols. 101).

3. Native alum, rough and green, sepa-
rate from its matrix ; from the same moun-
tains.

4. Alum like the former in appearance,
but not salt, perhaps a calcareous stone ;
found not far from the same place.

5. Various alpine micaceous stones.

6. Marie from Lapland.
7- Quartz from Lapland.

8. Silver ore from Kiurivari.

9- Silver ore from Nasaphiel in Pithoean
Lapland.

- 10. Sandstone containing three per cent,
of iron.

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 57

11. Black slate from the alps.

12. Petrified corals from Norway.

13. Iridescent fluors from the alps.
The fish called by the Laplanders Sijk

(the Gwiniad, or Salmo Lavaretus,) is
taken in their lakes. Its head terminates
in an obtuse point. The upper jaw is the
longest. Mouth without teeth. Iris of
the eye silvery, with a blackish upper
edge, and a black pupil. The whole body
is silvery, blackish about the back, eleven
inches long and two deep. Head two inches
long at the sides ; from the snout to the
dorsal fin four inches and a half. The dorsal
fin consists of thirteen rays, of which the
first is by fair the largest, and the last
cloven or interrupted. The soft fat fin is
in its proper place.

July 21.

The following are the disorders or incon-
veniences to which the reindeer are subject.

When the frost is so intense as to form an
impenetrable crust on the surface of the

38 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

snow, so that the animal cannot break it
with his feet, to get at the Lichen on which
he feeds, he is frequently starved to death.
This misfortune is as dreadful to the Lap-
landers as any public or national calamity
elsewhere; for, when his reindeer are killed,
he must himself either starve to death, beg
for his livelihood, or turn thief.

The hoofs of the reindeer are not uncom"
monly affected with a swelling at the edge
where they are attached to the skin, at
which part they consequently become ul-
cerated, and are seldom healed. The crea-
ture thus grows lame, and cannot keep up
with the herd.

These animals are sometimes attacked
with a vcrtigOy or giddiness in the head,
which causes them to run round and round
continually. The people assured me, that
such of them as run according to the course
of the sun may be expected to get the
better of the disorder; but those which
turn the contrary way, being supposed in-
curable, are immediately killed. The reco-

TH^ LAPLAND ALPS. SQ

very of the former is thought to be pro»
moted by cutting their ears, so as to cause
a great discharge of blood.

The Kurbina, or ulceration caused by
the Gad-tly, (see vol. I. p. 280.) takes place
every spring, especially in the younger
fawns. Such as are brought forth in the
summer season are free from this misfor-
tune the ensuing spring, but in the follow-
ing one many of them lose their lives by it.
When come to their full size and strength,
the consequences are less fatal; but no rein-
deer is entirely exempt from the attacks of
this pernicious insect.

The fawns are of a reddish hue the first
season, during which they cut their fore-
teeth. In the autumn they turn blackish,
and have fodder given them. They are
when young frequently afflicted with a
soreness in the mouth, so as to be unable
for a while to eat.

Reindeer are subject to a disease called
by the Laplanders Pekke Kattiata, accom-
panied with ulcerations of the flesh, which

40 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

however often heal by a sloughing of the5
part affected. This is an epidemic dis-
order. It is believed that if any of the
ulcerous part, which is cast off, be swal-
lowed by the animal, in licking his own
coat, or that of any other of the herd la-
bouring under this malady, it proves fatal
by corroding the viscera.

The dugs of the female often become
chapped or sore, so as to bleed whenever
they are milked.

The male reindeer in his natural state is
fatter than such as are castrated, except
the latter be kept without work, in which
case they become the fattest. Such as are
castrated and allowed to run wild, become
considerably larger, as well as tamer, in
consequence.

The rutting season lasts but a fortnight,
that is, from about a week preceding the
feast of St. Matthew (Sept. 21.) to Mi-
chaelmas day, during which period the
male is savage and dangerous. Immedi-
ately afterwards he casts his coat and horns.

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 41

and not iinfrequently becomes so ema-
ciated, that, in many instances, death is *
the consequence.

Towards the feast of St. Eric (May 18.)
in the following year, or within a fortnight
of that period, very rarely later, the females
bring forth their young. They do not co-
pulate the first year, and seldom before
the third, their progeny being found the
better for this delay. Indeed neither the
males nor females arrive at their full growth
and perfection before they are towards three
years old.

The fawn, whether male or female, is
called the first year mesh ; the second season
the male is called on'i/ck, and the female
wheninL In the third year the latter, if she
has been covered, is known by the appel-
lation of watja or waja, which means a
wife ; if otherwise, she goes by the name of
whenial-rotha, the three-year old male be-
ing called wuhbers. In his fourth year the
male is termed koddutis ; in the following
one kosittis ; in the sixth machanis, and in

42 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

the seventh namma lappotachis. After that
period no male is kept, they all perishing in
consequence of the exhaustion above men-
tioned, but the castrated ones live to a more
advanced age. None of these animals
however survive beyond their twelfth or
fourteenth year. When the castrated males
become very fat towards autumn, and show
signs of old age ; or the females, having
become barren, appear otherwise to be on
the decline, they are killed, by the knife,
in the close of the year; from an ap-
prehension that they might otherwise perish
of themselves from infirmity, in the course
of another season.

Such of the male reindeer as are destined
to serve for a stock of provision, are killed
before the rutting-time, and their carcases
hung up to be exposed to the air and frost
before flaying. The flesh is smoked and a
httle salted, and then laid upon sledges to
dry in the sun, that it may keep through
the winter till spring. About the feast of
St. Matthias (Feb. 24.) the reindeer begin

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 4S

to be so incommoded with the gad-fly, that
they are not in a fit condition to be slain
for eating. From that period therefore,
till the milking season, the Laplanders are
obliged to live on this stock of preserved
meat. At other times of the year the fe»
males are killed for immediate use, accord-
ing as they are wanted. The blood is kept
fresh in kegs, or other vessels, and serves
for food in the spring, being added to the
fallmg (see voL \.p. 129)) with a small
proportion of milk and water. The blood
of these animals is thick in consistence, like
that of a hog. The Laplanders carry a
portion of it along with them from place to
place, in bladders or some kind of vessels.
A stock of this and all other necessaries is
collected as late as possible, before the
melting of the snow, while there still re-»
mains a track for the sledges.

A kind of blood pudding or sausage is
made, in general without flour, and with
a large proportion of fat. This the Lap-
landers call marfi.

44 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

The liver of the reindeer, which is of a
considerable bulk, is boiled and eaten fresh.
The lungs, being salted and moderately
dried, are eaten occasionally, or else given
to the dogs. The intestines, which abound
with fat, are cut open, Mashed, and boiled
fresh ; nor are they unpalatable. The brain
and testicles are never eaten. The foot is
flayed down to the fetlock joint, beyond
which the hair cannot, by scalding or any
other contrivance, be separated, without
the cuticle and skin coming along with it.
Even when the feet are boiled, the hair ner»
ver comes off without the skin. Thus the
animal when living is the more firmly pro-
tected against the snow. The hoofs are
thrown away as useless.

The dung; of the reindeer in summer is
almost as large as cow-dung, but in winter
it more resembles that of the goat.

Each individual reindeer does not bear
horns of precisely the same shape every
year. The points are very liable to be de-
formed, in consequence of the animal's

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 45

scratching them, while in a growing state;
with its feet ; they being in that state much
inchned to itch, and as tender as the flesh
of a fresh fish.

These animals are afflicted with maggots
called kornmatskar in their noses and
gums, from which they relieve themselves
in the spring by snorting and blowing.-
When the insects lodge on their backs and
form pustules there, the people make a
practice of squeezing them out, to prevent
the reindeer from being too much irritated
by them. (This species is the Oestrus
nasalis, though the account here given is
not ver}^ clear ; but in the first edition only
of the Fauna Suecica Linnaeus says, on
the authority of a gentleman named Frie-
denreich, that " this Oestrus lodges its
eggs in the frontal sinus of the reindeer in
Lapland, and is frequently cast out by
them as they travel along in the spring.")
- When the skin is stripped from the
carcase of the reindeer, it is immediately
spread out, and stretched as much as pos-

4G rilR LAPLAND ALPS.

sible, by means of a longitudinal polo, and
a transverse stick at each end of the skin,
these sticks being pulled asunder with a
strong cord. Several more transverse twigs
are placed between these two sticks, so as
to extend every part of the edges of the
hide, which in this position is allowed to
dry.

The Laplanders' gloves are made of skin
taken from the legs of the animal ; their
hairy shoes, of that from its forehead be-
tween the horns, such being worth two
dollars, copper money ; while those made
from the skin of the legs, being much
thinner, are of very little or no value.

A Laplander never goes barefoot, though
he has nothing to serve him for stockings
but hay (Carex si/lvatica, FL Brit.). Some-
times he buys leather for shoes or boots
from his neighbours.

The people of this country boil their
meat in water only, without any addition
or seasoning, and drink the broth. Jumo-
mjölk (see vol. \. 273.) kept for a whole

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 4?

year is delicate eating. Bef ries of all kinds
are boiled in it. Some persons make a
practice of boiling these berries by them-
selves, preserving them afterwards in small
tubs, or other wooden vessels. They boil
their fish more thoroughly than their meat,
over a slow fire, drinking likewise the water
in which it has been drest. The meat is
never so much boiled as to separate from
the bone. Fresh fish is sometimes roasted
over the fire. Few people dry and salt it,
though that method is sometimes prac-
tised. Meat is dried by the air, sun and
smoke all together, being hung up in the
chimney, or rather hole by which the
smoke escapes through the roof.

The Laplanders never eat of more than
one dish at a meal.

By way of dainty, the women occasion-
ally mix the berries of the Dwarf Cornel
(Cormis suecica) with Kappi (see vol. i.
J5.281.), which is made of whey boiled till
it grows as thick as flummery. To this they

48 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

moreover add some cream. That fruit
is entirely neglected in the country of
Medelpad.

In Dalecarlia the people generally keep
their cattle up in the mountains, twelve or
sixteen miles from their own dwellings, on
account of gad-flies and other stinging in-
sects. There they have their dairies, and
make cheese. The remaining whey is
boiled till two thirds are wasted, when it
becomes as thick as flummery. This is
sometimes eaten instead of butter, some-
times mixed with dough, or serves for food
in various other manners.

The wind is excessively powerful in this
alpine region, so that sometimes it is im-
possible to stand against it, both men and
sledges being overturned by its violence.

It blew so hard at the place where I
now was, that one of the windows of the
curate's house was blown in upon the floor.

Every Laplander constantly carries a
sort of pole or slick, tipped with a ferule,

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 49

and furnished with a transverse bit of
wood. Whenever he is tired, he leans his
arms and nose against it to rest himself.

Such as live in the forests are dexterous
marksmen, but not those who inhabit the
alps. Nevertheless, thej all contrive, by
means of their wooden bows, to procure,
in the course of the winter, a considerable
number of Squirrels [Sciurus vulgaris) in
their grey or winter clothing, for the sake
of their skins.

In the winter season also they go in pur-
suit of their most cruel enemies the wolves.
One of these animals will sometimes kill
twenty or thirty reindeer at a time, if
he comes into the enclosure where they are.
The wolf often runs away before the Lap-
lander can get near enough to fire at him.
A bear can hardly catch a reindeer, ex-
cept by coming upon it unaw^ares, the
latter being much the most swift of foot ;
but if he gets into any of the store-houses,
he does a great deal of mischief, turning
every thing topsy-turvy. Bears are also

VOL. II. E

.50 THE LAPLAND ALPS. ,

very dangerous in the fissures of rocks
and mountains, where they usually conceal
themselves.

The Glutton (jLusicla Giilo) does most
harm in the pantry or store-house. He
never meddles with the reindeer.

A part of the employment of the men
is to make sledges, or other nuichines of
wood for carriage. They cut rough wood
in the forests for the boxes which they
carry w'lih them into the alps.

The duty of the women is to mend
the clothes of the whole family.

Laplanders ha^ e several plays or amuse-
ments.

Children make of the dwarf birch (Be-
titla iia?iu) something like reindeer's horns,
with which they gore one another in sport.
TlK'y amuse themsehes fiequently by
buildiiig little huts of stone.

Grown-up people play very well at ten-
nis, but they seldom partake of that di-
version. More common amusements are
blindmun's buff,, and drawing gloves.

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 51

Here I think it worth while to observe,
that the alpine Laplanders are more honest,
as well as more good-natured, than those
who dwell in the woodlands. Having
acquired more polish from their occasional
intercourse with the inhabitants of towns,
the latter have, at the same time, learned
more cunning and deceit, and are frequently
very knavish. The inhabitants of the alps
dwell in villages formed of their tents,
living together, as I have already related,
in great comfort and harmony. Those
who occupy the woody parts of the country
live dispersed.

The Laplanders know no musical in-
strument except the lur (a sort of trumpet),
and pipes made of the bark of the quicken
tree or mountain ash. They are not ac-
customed to sing at church, except those
who are reckoned among the great or
learned of the community.

The inhabitants of this country are
not more troubled with chilblains than
those of other places. They do not mind
E 2

52 THE LAPLAND ALl''S.

having their cheeks frost-bitten. The wo-
men wear an embroidered l)and round
the head, which affords no protection m
this respect ; but the men have a loose
band of skin with the hair on, which can
be pulled down occasionally over their cap,
when the cold is intolerable.

(But to proceed with a further account
of the diversions of the people I am de-
scribing).

Spetto, one of their games, is played, by
men as well as women, in the following
manner. They prepare from thirty to fifty
or sixty pieces of wood, a hand's breadth in
length, which are spread upon the ex-
tended skin of a reindeer. One of th^
players takes a ball made of stone or
marble, larger than a boy's playing marble,
which he throws up into the air about an
ell high. While the ball is up, he snatches
^way one of the sticks, but in such a
manner as not to miss catching the ball
in its fall, holdino- the stick in the same
hand. He subsequently gathers together»

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 53

in his other hand, as many of the sticks
as he has thus been able to procure. If
he fails in any respect, another person is
to take the ball, and proceed in the same
manner, the former player resigning up
to him one of the sticks every time tlie
ball is thrown, till no more remain in his
own possession. He who can take up all
the sticks wins the game.

The following rules are to be observed.

1. He who catches the ball, but not
one of the sticks, must resign the ball to
another player, as well as he who has
let it fall.

2. He who takes up more than one
stick at a time, must return what he hä3
taken.

3. The adversary, that is, the last
player, who could not succeed in taking
up all the sticks, is allowed to lay dowa
as many as he pleases of the sticks he has
collected, and may arrange them according
to his fancy. It is usual to lay one upon
another, in order to render the game
more difficult, the player being obliged to

54 THi: LAPLAND ALPS.

snatch up each separately ; which is not
easy without taking two, when so situated,
at once.

4. When at length one person has taken
up all the sticks, his adversary is permitted
to replace the two last of them upon the
skin in any manner he chooses. He com-
monly separates them as widely as possible.
The person who had previously gained the
whole, is then required to take up both
these sticks at one throw of the ball, and
if he fails he must give up the game.
Thus the victory is often lost by means of
these two last sticks.

5. When the adversary fails of his aim,
the other player is to take all the sticks
lying on the field, as well as those which,
after having been laid down by himself,
were won by the other person, and the
whole are to be laid down again directly,
in order to be taken up according to the
above rules. But he is no longer under
any obligation himself to take up the
sticks which he has thus laid for his com-
panion.

THE LAPLAXD ALPS.

03

The game called Tablet is played M'iih
a checkered board, and twenty-five pieces,
or men, in the following manner.

56 TUE LAPLAND ALPS.

1 2 3

Fis- 1, is the kins:, whose station is in
the central squar*^ or royal castle, called
koTiokis by the Laplanders, to which no
other person can be admitted.

Fig. 2, represents one of the eight Swedes
his subjects, who, at the commencement
of the game, are stationed in the eight
squares, adjoining to the royal castle,
marked 2 and 3.

Fig. 3, is one of sixteen Muscovites,
their adversaries, who occupy the sixteen
embroidered squares, (some of them marked
4 in the cut,) situated four together in
the middle of each side of the field.

The vacant squares, distinguished by
letters, may be occupied by any of the
pieces in the course of the game.

LAWS.

1. Any piece may move from one square
to another in a right line, as from ö to c ;
but not corner-wise, or from a to e.

2. It is not allowed to pass over the heads

THE LAPLAXD ALPS. 5?

of any other pieces that may be in the
way, or to move, for instance, from b to
m, in case any were stationed at e or /.

3. If the king should stand in ^, and
no other piece in e, /, or w, he ma v escape
by that road, unless one of the ]\Iuscovites
immediately gets possession of one of the
squares in question, so as to interrupt him.

4. If the king be able to accomplish
this, the contest is at an end.

5. If the king happens to be in e, and none
of his own people or his enemies either in
y or g^ i or m, his exit cannot be prevented.

6. Whenever the person who moves the
king perceives that a passage is free, he
must call out raicliii and if there be two
ways open, tuichu.

7. It is allowable to move ever so far
at once, in a right line, if the squares in
the way be vacant, as from c to n,

8. The Swedes and the Muscovites take
it by turns to move.

9- If any one man gets between two
squares occupied by his enemies, he is
killed and taken off, except the king, who
is not liable to this misfortune.

5S THE LAPJ.AXD ALPS.

10. If the king, being in his own square
or ciistle, is encompassed on three sides
by bis enemies, one of them standing in
each of three of the squares numbered 2, he »
may move away by the fourth. If one
of his own people happens to be in this
fourth square, and one of his enemies in
numbers nexttoil, the soldier thus enclosed
between his king and the enemy is killed.

If four of the enemy gain possession of the
four squares marked 2, thus enclosing the
king, he becomes their prisoner.

11. If the king be in 2, with an enemy
in each of the adjoining squares, a, A and
3, he is likewise taken.

12. \Vhene\er the king is thus taken or
imprisoned, the war is over, and the
conqueror seizes all the Swedes, the con-
quered party resigning all the Muscovites
that he had taken.

The Laplanders use the middle bark of
the elm for dressing their reindeer skins,
but merely by chewing it, and rubbing
their saliva on the skins.

They also tan with birch bark, but do
not suffer the skins to remain long under

THE LAPLAXD ALPS. oQ

the operation, which they say would render
them rotten and apt to rend, neitlier can
they spare them very long.

White walmal cloth is procured from
Russia, but for want thereof they commonly
wear a light grey cloth of the same kind.

Ropes are made of roots of spruce fir
in the following manner. Choosino* the
most slender roots, they scrape oft^ the
bark, while fresh, with the back of a knife,
holding the roots against the thigh. After-
wards each root is first split with the knife
into three or four parts, which are then by
degrees separated into a number of very
slender fibres ; and these, being wrapped
round the hand like a skain of thread,
are tied together. They are then boiled
in a kettle for an hour or two, with a
considerable quantity of wood ashes.
While still soft from this boiling, they are
laid across the knee, and scraped three or
four times over with a knife. At last they
are twisted into small ropes. Birch roots
serve in like manner to afford corda<re for
the Laplanders, but more rarelj . The

(50 TUT. LAPLAKD ALPS.

latter are more generally used, without
being split, for basket-work. For various
articles of furniture the roots of Tall
(Scotch Fir, Vin us si/lvestris) are cut into
small boards. The wood of that tree
serves for inferior kinds of work, and,
amongst other things, for cheese-vats.

The Laplanders scrape with a knife the
voung and tender stalks of the plant called
Jetja, {So7ichus alpimis^ Sm. Plant. Ic.
^.21.) and eat them as a delicacy, like
those of the great Angelica {A. Archan-
gelica), which in the first year of their
growth are termed Fatno. ^

A Laplander always places himself at
the further part of his hut, and his guest
is seated next to him on a skin spread
on purpose. The master of the hut is by
this means enabled to reach the vessel in
which water is kept for drink, and which
always stands in the upper part of the hut.

The river Hyttan flows in a perpetual
stream both summer and winter. Now if,
according to the general opinion, the water
of this river were derived from exhala-

TIIK LAPLAND ALPS. 6l

tioiis of the great ocean, collected by tlie
alps of this country, it should cease to
run when all the alpine tracts are frozen.
The stream must therefore be constantly
fed by neighbouring springs.

The names by ^hich the Laplanders
distinguish the several times of the day or
night are as follows.

Midnight is called in their language
kaskia. The remainder of the night be-
fore dawn, pojela kaskia. The morning
dawn, theleeteilyja. Sun-nse, peivimoroiak.
Two or three hours after sun-rise, areiteet.
The hour of milking the reindeer, which
is about 8 or 9 o' clock, arrapeivi. Noon,
or dinner time, koskapeivi About 5 or 6
o'clock in the afternoon, eketispeivi. Sun-
set, peiveliti. Night, iä.

The days of the week are named as
follows.

Sunday, Sot no peivi.
Monday, Mannutaka.
Tuesday, Tistaka.
Wednesday, K aska vacku, or middle pf

the w^ek.

62 THE LAPLAyn AIPS.

Thursday, Tourestaka.
Friday, Perietaka.
Saturday, Luvutaka.

They have no names for the months,
but certain weeks are distincruished by the
following appellations.
Midsummer week. Midtsomarvacku.
St. Peter's week, June 29, Felasmassu vackii.
Goose week, Gassa va c ku.
In the middle of the summer, Gaskakis.
St. Margaret's, July 20, Marcrit»
St. Olaus' mass, July 29» VoUis.
(No date mentioned here.) Vehak.
St. Laurence, Aug. 10, Lauras.
Reindeer-fawn week, Ornjk. When in a

fawntwo years old the horns begintobud.
St. Bartholomew, Aug. 24, Barti.
(No date.) Hoppmil.

St. Mary, Sept. 8, Margi.
Holy Cross, Sept. 14, Behawls.
St. Matthew, Sept. 21, Matthus.
St. Michael, Sept. 29, Michel.
(St. Faith, Oct. 6P) Perkit.
(Middle of Oct.) TalvL

THE LAPLAND ALPS.

65

/

The annexed figure re-
presents a Laplander's staff.
It is tipped with a blade of
iron, as thick as the thumb.
With this weapon he attacks
the bear and wolf in the
time of deep snow. On the
lower part of the shaft is
a sort of hoop, six inches in
diameter, made of root of fir,
and fastened with thongs of
reindeer skin, one of which
passes through a hole in the
staff. At the bottom it is
mounted with iron. The
Hse of this hoop is to pre-
vent the staff from sinking
into the snow, when used
as a walking-stick. The
shaft itself, made of birch
wood, is about four feet
long, and an inch and half
thick.

64

Tim LA PLAN D ALPS.

This sketch is taken from
one of tlieir snow shoes,
made of wood. Its length
is six feet, from h to i ;
f breadth, from k to g, five
inches. The hind part, i,
is rather more obtuse than
the other end, h, which
last is elevated about two
or three inches. From h
it gradually widens to f.
The part from c to d, where
the foot stands, is about
eight inches ; its breadth
three. The urtder part of
the shoe is convex, and
furrowed lengthwise ; the
upper flattish, raised about
ten lines, and the edge all
round is sharp. At b is a
band, made of fir root twist-
ed, serving to tie the shoe
fast round the ancle. The
general thickness of the shoe
throughout is from three to
four lines.

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 65

Some people wear a pair of the same
size ; others have the left shoe smaller
than the right. Each is often lined or
covered, ahout the central part, with a
piece of hairy reindeer skin, to prevent
the foot slipping about upon the shoe, and
give a firmer step in walking over the
snow. This is most practised in Kimi-
Lapmark, where the wild reindeer are
most abundant.

The Lapland thread is made out of the
tendons of remdeer fawns half a year old.
Such thread is covered with tin foil for
embroidery, its pliability rendering it pe-
culiarly fit for the purpose» The tendons
are dried in the sun, being hung over a
stick. They are never boiled.

To show to what a high degree of per-
fection these people have arrived in the
art of making such thread j I brought
away ä sample of it, which I believe none
of our ladies could match.

Shoes and baskets made of birch bark
are used both in Ångermanland and Hel-

VOL. II. F

66 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

singland, as well as ropps of the same
material, which will not sink in water, but
these are not in general use.

The bows which serve the Laplanders
for shooting squirrels are composed of
two different kinds of wood, laid parallel
to each other. The innermost is birch,
the outermost of what they term kior,
kiocrn or tioern. (This is procured from
a tree of the Common Fir, Pinus si/lvestris,
that happens to grow in a curved form,
usually in marshy places, or on the banks
of rivers, and whose contracted side is hard
like box : see vol. i.p. 255 ; also Fl. Lopp. n,
546, X.) If this be not practised, the bows
are more apt to snap. Each layer of wood
is externally convex, yet not so much as
to render the bow quite cylindrical.

When the Laplanders expect any visitors,
they are particularly careful to have plenty
of vis (branches of the dwarf birch ) spread
on the floor, under the reindeer skins on
which they sit ; otherwise they would be
thought deficient in civility, and the mis-

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 67

tress of the family would be censured as
a bad manager, uhen the guests returned
to their own homes.

The mode of their entertainment is as
follows.

First, if the stranger arrives before their
meat is set over the fire to boil, thej pre-
sent him either with iced milk, or with
some kind of berries mixed with milk, or
perhaps with cheese, or with kappi, (see
voL\.p.28l.) Afterwards, when the meat is
sufficiently cooked, and they have taken
it out of the pot, they put into the water,
in which it has been boiled, slices of cheese
made of reindeer milk. This is a testimony
of hospitality, and that they are disposed
to make their guest as welcome as they
can. They next serve up some of their
dry or solid preparations of milk.

The marriages of the Laplanders are
conducted in the following manner. (This
subject was treated in vol. i. p. 276, like
Sterne's " history of the king of Bohemia
and his seven castles,'' no doubt to the
p2

6d TIJE LAPLAND ALPS.

great dismay of the curious reader. We
ought to have warned him of its heing
resumed in a subsequent part of the work,
but in truth we had not then ourselves
proceeded so far in decyphering the origi*
nal manuscript.)

1. In the first place the lover addresses
his favourite fair-one in a joking manner, to
try whether his proposal be likely to prove
acceptable or not. Perhaps he even goes
so far as to speak once or twice to her
father upon the subject. He then takes
his leave, either fixing a time for his return,
or not, as it may happen.

2. The lover next takes with him such
of his nearest relations as tive in the neigh*
bourhood, who, as well as himself, all carry
provisions with them, to the hut of his
mistress, he going last in the procession.

S. When the party arrive at the place of
their destination, they all, except the lover,
walk in. If there happen to be any other
huts near at hand, it is usual for the
damsel to retire to one of them, that »he

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 69

may not be obliged to hear the conversa-
tion of the visitors. Her admirer either
remains on the outside of the door, amongst
the reindeer, or goes into some neighbour-
ing hut. There are usually two or three
spokesmen in the party, the principal of
v.hom is called Sugnovivi. When they are
all seated, the young man's father first
presents some brandy to the father of the
young woman ; upon which the latter asks
why he treats him with brandy ? The for-
mer replies, " I am come hither with a
good intention, and 1 wish to God that it
may prosper." He then declares his errand.
If the other party should not be favourably
inclined to the proposal, he rejects it, at
the same time thanking the person who
made it. Upon this, all who are present
endeavour to prevail upon him to give his
consent to the marriage. If they succeed,
or in case the offer has from the first been
accepted, the friends of the lover fetch
whatever they have brought along with

70 mV. LAPLAXD y\LPS,

tlicm, consisting of various ulcnsils, and
silver coin, which they place on a reindeer
skin, spread in the hut, before the father
and mother of the intended bride. The
father or the moth.er of the bridegroom
then distributes the money between the
young woman and her parents. If the sum
be thought too small, the latter ask for
more, and it frequently happens that much
time is spent in bargaining, before they
can come to a conclusion. When the par-
ties concerned cannot obtain so large a sum
as they think themselves entitled to, they
often reject the whole, and return the
money to those who brought it. But if,
on the contrary, matters are brought to a
favourable conclusion, die parents allow
their daughter to be sent for. Two of the
bridegroom's relations undertake this office.
If the bride has any confidential female
friend, or a sister, they walk arm and arm
together; and in this case the mother of
the bridegroom *is required to make a pre-

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 71

sent of a few brass rings, or something of
that kind, to this friend or sister, who keeps
lamenting the loss of her companion.

When the bride enters the hut, her
father asks whether she is satisfied with
■what he has done ? To which she replies,
that she submits herself to the disposal of
her father, who is the best judge of what
is proper for her. The mother of the
bridegroom then presents the bride with
the sum allotted for her, laying it in her
lap. If it proves less than she had ex-
pected, she shows her dissatisfaction by
various gestures, and signs of refusal, in
which case she may possibly obtain at least
the promise of a larger sum. All these
gifts become her own property.

When such pecuniary matters are finally
arranged, the father and mother of the
bridegroom present him and his bride with
a cup of brandy, of which they partake
together, and then all the company shake
hands. They afterwards take off their caps,
and one of the company makes an oration,

>^

72 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

praying for God's blessing upon the new-
married couple, and returning thanks to
him who " gives every man his own w ife,
and every woman her own husband."

The parents of the bridegroom next
partake of some brandy, and the whole
stock of that liquor which they had brought
with them is fetched for the company.

All the relations of the bridegroom then
come forward with their provisions, which
generally consist of several cheeses, and a
piece of meat dried and salted. The latter
is roasted before the fire, while the com-
pany is, in the mean while, regaled with
some of the solid preparations of milk, the
bride and bridegroom eating by themselves,
apart from the rest.

Two stewards are next chosen, one of
them from the bride's party, the other
from that of the bridegroom. The last-
mentioned party are then required to fur-
nish a quantity of raw meat, amounting to
about a pound and half to each person.
This the stewards immediately set about

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 7o

boiling, and their duty moreover is to serve
it round to all present. This meat is dress-
ed in several separate pots, two only in
each hut, if there be any neighbours whose
huts can serve to accommodate the party
en this occasion ; for each Laplander has
never more than one hut of his own. The
fat part of the broth is first served up in
basons. Afterwards various petticoats or
blankets, of walmal cloth, are spread on
the floor, by way of a table-cloth, on
which the boiled meat is placed. The
chief persons of the company then, as
many as can find room, take their places
in the hut of the bride's family, sitting
down round the provision, while the chil-
dren and inferiors are accommodated in
the neighbouring huts. Grace is then said.
The bride and bridegroom are placed near
together, for the most part close to the
door, or place of entrance. They are
always helped to the best of the provision.
The company then serve themselves, taking
their meat on the points of their knives.

74 TIIJ; LAPLAXl) ALTS,

and dipping each morsel into some of the
fat broth, in which the whole has been
boiled, before they put it into their mouths.
Numbers of people assemble from the
neighbourhood, to look in upon the com-
pany through the door ; and as they ex-
pect to share in the feast, the stewards
give them two or three bits of meat, ac-
cording as they respect them more or less.
What remains after every body is satisfied,
is put together, and wrapped up in the
blankets or cloths, that part of it which
is left by the new-married couple being
kept separate from the rest, as no other
person is allowed to partake of their share.
The dinner being over, the whole company
shake hands and return thanks for their
entertainment. They always shake hands
with the bride and bridegroom in the first
place, and then with the rest, saying at
the same time kusslan.

After taking some brandy, the whole
party go to bed. The herd of reindeer
had been turned out to pasture from the

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 75

time when the meat was put into the pot.
The bride and bridegroom sleep together
with their clothes on.

When the company rise in the morning,
if the bridegroom's father and their party
have any thing left, they treat the others
with it ; for the family of the bride have
seldom any preparation made, not expect-
ing, or not being supposed to expect, such
company, and they never keep any brandy
by them, but purchase it for every occa-
sion. Whatever cold meat therefore re-
mains is brought forward, to which the
bride's party indeed add cheese, and any
other preparation of milk they may have
in store, as well as any dried meat ; such
things being usually kept by them. With
these the party regale themselves by way
of breakfast. Afterwards the family of the
bride boil some fresh meat, as a final re-
past for their guests, who, after partaking
of it, take their leave.

The banns are usually published once.
The marriage ceremony, which is very

76 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

short, is performed after the abovemen-
tioned company is departed. This being
over, the bridegroom either takes his wife
immediately home with him, or he goes to
his own hut alone, and stays there from
one to five days, after which he returns to
her residence, bringing with him his herd
of reindeer, and stays there for some time
with her.

Such of the Laplanders as are rich
enough to aftbrd it, make their wives a
present of a coverlet ; a petticoat made of
cloth, without any gathers, as usual among
these people ; a small silver beaker or cup;
several rix-dollars and silver rings; a spoon,
Sec; so that many a bride costs her hus-
band more thau a hundred dollars, copper
money. To the mother he perhaps gives
a silver belt, as well as a cloth petticoat.

I have alread}^ mentioned that the Lap-
landers eat Angelica {syhestvh) in a raw
state. This plant, Mhich the inhabitants
of Westbothland call Bloernstut, has so
many names among the Laplanders, ac-

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 7/

cording to the different stages of its growth,
as to cause much confusion to a stranoer.

o

The first year of its growth they term the
root Urtas, and the leaves Fadno ; but the
second year the plant is known by the
name of Posco or Boisk. When the stalk
is dried, or eaten raw, they call it Rasi^
that is, grass. They say, when any one
has eaten more of this plant than is good
for him, " Elli 7'asi id pnrro etnach" the
meaning of which is, " Thou hast overload-
ed thyself with such a quantity of grass/'

Another herb of which they are very
fond is the Sowthistle with a simple stem,
known by the name of Jerja. {Sonchus
alpinus. FL Lapp. ed. 2. 240. Sm. PL Ic.
t. 21. S. Uipponicus. IVilld. Sp. PL v. 3,
1520.) This has a perennial root. The
stem is erect, round, green, smooth, except
a few soft scattered hairs, which are most
remarkable towards the top and bottom,
and is almost as tall as a man. Leaves
about twelve or fourteen, half clasping the
stem, gradually smaller upwards, nearly

78 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

the shape of Dandelion, or of the common
Sowthistle, one half of each leaf, consisting
of the terminal lobe, making exactly an
acute triangle, toothed at the edges ; from
that part downwards the leaf contracts,
but not to the main rib, and then again
expands into two narrow appendages, as it
were, equal in breadth, but unequal in
length, which are crenate at their edges.
From thence begins the stalk of the leaf,
which is M'inged and toothed, and half
embraces the stem. The leaves are thin
and smooth, with a rib purple on the upper
side, and the upper ones are the least di-
vided, as well as the bluntest. The flowers
are collected into a corymbus, somewhat
like Butterbur, but more loosely, especially
in the lower part, each supported by a very
short stalk, accompanied by a very narrow
oblong leaf which extends beyond the
flower. The calyx consists of several ob-
long, narrow, acute, imbricated leaves,
varying in number from fourteen to twenty,
the outermost gradually shortest, but the

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 79

ten innermost are equal in length, and
blunter than the rest, composing two rows ;
the calyx altogether is shorter than the
corolla, tubular, swelling, and downy. Flo-
rets equal in number to the leaves of the
calyx. Germen short, square, crowned
with long wliite radiating down. Petal
flat, cut a^vay on one side, violet-coloured,
five- toothed. Stamens five, white, their
apex (anther) cylindrical, five-sided, white,
marked with five blue lines. Pistil one,
forked at the top. Receptacle naked, dot-
ted. This plant grows among trees at the
sides of mountains, along with the narrow -
hooded Aconite (Acojiitum lycoctoniim)^
flowering at the end of July or beginning
of August. The stem, which is milky, is
eaten by the Laplanders in the same man-
ner as Angelica. The taste was to me very
bitter, but the people of the country do
not find it so, though they confessed that
it appeared bitter to them when they first
learned to eat it. As soon as the plant

80 THE LAPLAND ALPS.

shows its flowers, the stalk becomes woody,
and no longer eatable;

The sinews of which the fine thread is
made that, when covered with tin, serves
for embroidery, and is called tentrud (tin-
thread), are taken from the feet of the
reindeer, or of oxen, boiled ; though some-
times the feet of sea-fowl are chosen for
this purpose. Old women and girls are
employed in preparing this thread, by
drawing it through holes made in a piece
of reindeer'» horn. Tbey wind it round
their hands and feet as they form it, and
smear it with fat extracted from the foot
of the animal, to make it more supple, as
they proceed.

Hay is made in different modes in va^
rious parts of Sweden. In Westbothland
the fresh-cut grass is heaped together aver
night, that it may get a heat. Next day
it is spread out, and by this method its
quality is supposed to become richer and
stronger. The same is practised with hopg

THE LAPLAND ALPS. 81

in Jämtland, where the fresh-gatheredhop3
are packed together, as hard as possible,
till they become warm ; after which they
are spread out to dry. Their strength is
by this means improved.

The people of Scania having mowed their
grass, let it lie till dry, when they rake it
together.

The Smolanders dry it in a kind of shed.

The East Gothlanders range it in heaps,
two and two together, in a long row.

In Upland the new-mown grass is tied
up in bundles, and collected into cocks.

In Angermannia the whole yearns crop is
laid by upon a kind of raised floor.

In Westbothland, after being dried in
the shed, the hay is kept there for use, being
laid crosswise, and cut when wanted*.

Jiilij 23.
This evening I took leave of the alpine

* The whole of this account of the hay consists,
in the manuscript, of such concise, disjointed, and
obscure notes, that we are by no means certain of
having preserved the exact sense.
VOL. II. G

82 LULEAN LAPLAND.

part of Lapland, and returned by water
from Hyttan towards Lulea.

Tlie White, or Mountain, Fox {Cams la-
gopus)\\\es among the alps, feeding on the
Lemming Rat or Red Mouse, [Mus Lem-
mus.) as well as on the Ptarmigan (Tetrao
Lagopus). This White Fox is smaller than
the common kind. The Ptarmigan, which
the Laplanders call C/ieru7ia, feeds on the
Dwarf Birch (Betula nana), which for that
reason is called Ryprijs, or Ptarmigan-bush.
At night this bird lies squat upon the snow,
in the same posture as the Wood Grous
(Tetrao Urogallus, see vol. 1. 179) - henca
a great deal of its dung is seen in the prints
it makes in the snow. This mode of roost-
ing renders the Ptarmigan an easy prey to
the Fox.

The Lemming or Red Mouse, see^. 18,
{Mus Lemmus,) in some seasons entirely
overruns the country ; devouring the corn
and grass: but though these animals thus^
occasionally appear by millions at a time,
they subsequently depart and disappear as
unaccountably, so that nobody knows what

tULEAN LAPLAND. 83

becomes of them. They do no mischief in
the houses.

The Ermine [Mustela Erminea) is white
in winter, red in summer. This animal is
seldom met with on the alps, but is very
plentiful in the forests. Foxes and Wolves
have destroyed the chief of the Hares.
The Wolves indeed kill the Foxes,

The Shrew Mouse (SoreT araneus) and
Common Small Mouse {Miis Musculas) are
found in Lapmark, but no Rats [Mtis
Ratiiis).

Hunting the Bear is often undertaken
by a single man, who, having discovered
the retreat of the animal, takes his dog
along with him, and advances towards the
spot. The jaws of the dog are tied round
with a cord, to prevent his barking, and
the man holds the other end of this cord
in his hand. As soon as the dog smells
the bear, he begins to show signs of un-
easiness, and by dragging at the cord in-
forms his master that the object of his
pursuit is at no great distance. When the
G 2

84 LULKAN LAPLAND.

Laplander by this means discovers on whicfi
side the bear is stationed, he advances m
such a direction that the wind may blow
trom the bear to him, and not the contrarj;
for otherwise the animal would by the scent
be aware of his approach, though not able
to see an enemy at any considerable di-
stance, beino- half blinded by the sunshine.
When he has gradually advanced to within
gunshot of the bear, he fires upon him ;
and this is the more easily accomplished in
autumn, as the bear is then more fearless,
and is continually prowling about for ber-
ries of different kinds, on which he feeds
at that season of the year. Should the
man chance to miss his aim, the furious
beast will directly turn upon him in a rage,
and the little Laplander is obliged to take
to his heels with all possible speed, leaving
his knapsack behind him on the spot. The
bearcomingupv/ith this, seizes uponit, biting
and tearing it into a thousand pieces. While
he is thus venting his fury, and bestowing all
his attention, upon the knapsack, the Lap.-

LULEAN LAPLAND. 85

lander takes the opportunity of loading bis
gun, and firing a second time ; when he is
generally sure of hitting the mark, and the
bear either falls upon the spot or runs away.

July 24.

In the huts of this neighbourhood I
observed an instrument which I had no
where noticed before, consisting of an ob-
long board, placed transversely at the end
of a pole. Its use is to stir the pot while
boiling.

Directly opposite to Hyttan towards the
west, and on the south of the mountain of
Wallivari, is a vein of fine iron ore, but
hardly worth working while the roads, by
which it must be conveyed to Lulea, are
in so bad a state.

This night I beheld a star, for the first
time since I came within the arctic circle.
Nevertheless the darkness was not con-
siderable enough to prevent my reading or
Meriting whatever I pleased.

One of the Laplanders had caught a

86 LULEAN LAPLAND.

quantity of the fish called Sikloja (Sdlmo
Albula) of a large size. He stuck about
twenty of thcni on one spit, the back of
each being placed towards the belly of the
next, and they were thus roasted before
the fire. These fish had previously been
dried, though not at all salted.

The glue used by the Laplanders for
joining the two portions of different ^voods
of which their bows are made (see j). Q6,)
is prepared from the Common Perch [Perca
fiuviatiUs) in the following manner. Some
of the largest of this fish being flayed,
the skins are first dried, and afterwards
soaked in a small quantity of cold water,
so that the scales can be rubbed off. Four
or five of these skins being wrapped up
together in a bladder, or in a piece of birch
bark, so that no water can get at them,
are set on the fire in a pot of water to boil,
a stone being laid over the pot, to keep in
the heat. The skins thus prepared make a
very strong glue, insomuch that the articles
joined with it will never separate again.

LULEAN LAPLAND. 87

A bandage is tied round the bow while
making, to hold the two parts the more
firmly together.

When these people undertake a short
journey only, they carry no bag for pro-
visions, the latter being stored between
their outer and inner jackets, which are
always bound with a girdle, being wide,
and formed of numerous folds, botli above
and below it.

The Purple Willow-herb, or Epilohium
{august if oUum ?) made the fields at this
time very beautiful. The Golden-rod [So-
lidago Virgaureci) was likewise here in blos-
som, though not yet upon the alps, where
it flowers later.

I have never yet seen any animal swim
so light as the reindeer. During the dog-
days the herds of reindeer, belonging to
the inhabitants of the woody parts of Lap-
land, are very badly off for want of snow,
•vvith which those animals refresh themselves
in hot weather upon the alps. Hence they
constitute a more valuable and thriving pro-

88 LULEAN LAPLAXD.

perty to the alpine Laplanders than to any
others. In the winter time, when the fa-
vourite Lichen of the reindeer (L. rangife-
rinus) cannot be got at, their keepers fell
trees laden with filamentous Lichens, to
serve them for food ; but it scarcely proves
sufficient.

The rivulet near Kiomitis Trask has a
very vvhite appearance, as if milk had been
mixed Mith it. This the inhabitants term
halkwatter, or lime-water, from the colour,
not from any knowledge of its cause or
origin. This rivulet they told me came
from the alps. It empties itself into the
great river near Kiomitis, and renders the
water of that river white for the space of
four or five miles. I noticed a similar
phaenomenon at Wirijaur.

I was amused with the mode in which
these Laplanders take brandy. After they
have laid hold of the mug, they dip their
forefingers into the liquor, and rub a little
on their foreheads, as well as on the middle
of their bosoms. On inquiring the reason»

LULEAN LAPLAND. 89

I was told their intention was that the
brandy might not prove hurtful either to
the head or breast.

Some people here were regaling them-
selves with fresh fish, of the kind lately
mentioned [Sab?io Albula), which having
boiled into a mass like pap or flummery,
they were eating out of their hands.

The dress of the Laplanders is, in one
particular at least, very wisely contrived.
Their thick collars effectually protect the
throat and breast, which being furnished
with numerous nerves and small muscles,
and being the seat of the windpipe and of
many principal veins and arteries, are very
important and susceptible parts. The neck
moreover, from its slender shape, is pe-
culiarly exposed to cold. Hence the pro-
tection of clothing is found very necessary
to the parts in question. For want of it
our young women suffer much injury, which
our youths avoid by running into the con-
trary extreme of tying their neckcloths

§0 LULEAN LAPLAND.

SO tight as to make themselves as red in
the face as if they were half strangled.

We Swedes are accustomed to have all
our clothing made very tight. Not only
the neckcloth, but the coat, waistcoat,
breeches, stockings, sleeves, &c., must all
stick close to the body, and the tighter
they are the more fashionable. The Lap-
landers, on the contrary, wear only two,
and those slight, bandages about them,
which moreover arc broad, and therefore
less injurious than a narrow bandage in any
part. Those to which I allude are the
waistband and knees of their breeches, both
made sufficiently loose and easy.

To-day I gathered the following plants.
— A reed-like panicled Grass, wdth a very
slender branched stem. (This appears to
have been Arundo Calamagrostis, Fl. Lapp,
n. 42.)

A great aquatic Carex, with inflated,
whitish, pendulous spikes. In more dry
situations they were upright and shorter,

LULEAN LAPLAND. 91

but in every other particular the same. (C.
vesicaria.) A grass with a slender dark-
coloured panicle, approaching the stem.
(Jgrostis rubra, Fl. Lapp, n. 46.)

July 25.

The lakes in this part of tlie country did
not afford me so many plants as further
south. Their bottoms were quite clear, and
destitute of vegetation. Their shores were
no less barren. No Water-lilies (Ni/mphcEce),
no Water-docks, &c., (different species of
Kumex,) grew about their borders, but the
surface of the water itself was covered with
the Water Ranunculus (R. aquatilis), bear-
ing round as well as capillary leaves, and
whitening the whole with its blossoms. I
could not but wonder to see these broad
patches of white spread over the lakes,
though, when I passed up the country but
a fortnight before, I had not perceived the
least appearance of even the herbage of the
Jianunculus that composed them. Now its

f)'2 LULEAN LAPLAXD.

branches, an ell in length, swam on the
surface. The growth of the stem must be
very rapid, as it often proceeded from a
depth of three fathoms. Some of the plants
thrown up on the shore had capillary leaves,
as are all those which o;row under the water.
The root resembles that of the Iris.

I noticed also the Pond weed with leaves
clasping the stem (Potamogetofi perfolia-
turn, rare in Lapland) ; and a very large
branched floating Water-grass, with cylin-
drical spikes, which I hesitate whether to
separate from the Gramcn aquaticinn geni-
culatum spicafum, (of Bauhin and Rud-
beck. A lopecurus gcniculatus of Linnaeus.
The grass of which he here speaks is n. 38
of his Flora Lapponica. A. genkulatus (o^
Sp. PL 89.)

The annexed figure represents the Nor-
wegian cross-bow, used for shooting squir-
rels, which it will hit at the distance of
twenty or thirty paces as certainly as a gun.

It was curious to observe the dexte-

LULEAX LAPLAND.

93

94 LULEAN LAPLAXD.

rity with which one of the Laplanders hit
a small fly, which I had set up for a mark,
at the distance of thirty paces.

The bow itself, a, a, a, made of steel, is
two feet and a half long, two inches wide
in the middle, gradually sloping off to the
extremities, which are only one incli in
width. Each end is rounded, with a notch,
where the cord is fixed, which, when the
bow is drawn, seems in danger of immedi-
ately slipping off, but it never does. The
whole bow when at rest makes a curve of
two inches ; when strongly bent it forms
one of seven.

The cord b, fixed on at the ends b, b, is
made of twisted hemp, as thick as one's
finger, bound round with hempen threaci,
especially in the middle, where it is to re-
ceive the bolt.

The stock c, c, made of wood ornamented
with inlaid work of bone, is two feet and a
half long, and half a palm broad, being half
an inch thick towards the top, and an inch at
the base. Its upper side is entirely covered

LULEAN LAPLAND. 95

Avith the above-mentioned inlaying, and
quite even or flat, except towards the base
or handle, where it is slightly concave.

The part marked d on the bow, and D
on a larger scale annexed, is the catch, like
a pulley, which turns on an iron pin, and
in the side of which is a projection, with a
rectangular notch, see Jig. 1 and 2. When
the bow is bent, the angle at^'o-. 2 catches
the cord, and is let go by means of the
apparatus represented at c, c, by the side.

As no human being is sufficiently strong
to draw this bow with the hands alone, a
strap of leather is fixed round the loins,
ending in two iron hooks, which lay hold
of the cord. One foot is put into the strap
at the top of the bow, h, and then, by the
exertion of the body, the bow is drawn till
the cord catches the anMe of the pulley D.

96

LULKAX LAPLAND.

Tlic annexed cut represent»
the bolt of this Norwegian cross-
bow, ^\hich la a foot and half
long, an inch thick. From the
extremity, which is thicker and
blunt, to the feathered part, is
about a foot. The feathers, taken
from the wing of the great Grous
or Cock of the wood, [Tetrao
Urogallus,) are stripped from
the quill, and placed erect in
three longitudinal rows; and after
being bound on with thread, the
part by which they are attached
is smeared with pitch, to fix
them the more firmly. The
whole bolt is made of birch
wood. Its base is compressed,
naked and smooth, formed with a
groove to receive the bow-string.

This more finished and elabo-
rate sort of bow is principally
used in Westbothnia. The whole
cost of one, w ith all its appurte-

LULEAN LAPLAND. 97

nances, amounts to fifteen dollars, copper
money. The Laplanders therefore content
themselves with a far more rude and simple
apparatus, consisting of such a wooden
bow made of birch, as I have already de-
scribed, with a string fitted to it. Or they
merely cut a branch of fir in the forest,
and with any bit of cord that happens to
come in their way, kill abundance of squir-
rels, holding the bow with their left hand,
and drawing it with their right by means of
a small cleft stick. Thus they will, as I
have witnessed, take successful aim at the
Emheriza nivalis^ or Snow Bunting, sitting-
en the tops of the most lofty pines»

It is commonly reported that no clay is
to be found in Lapland, but I met with
some in two different places ; in each in-
stance indeed it was at the bottom of a
lake, as at Rondijaur and Sckalka trask,
the shores beins: of sand thous-h the bottom

o o

was clay.

Nets are set in the lakes in winter to
catch the Sijk fish (Salmo Lavaret us, or

VOL. II. 11

98 LULKAX LAPLAND.

Gwiniad.) Holes are made for this purpose
in the ice, and the nets are dragged with a
string. This is done from St. Andrew's
day, (Nov. 30th,) to Christmas.

The Laplanders make their sledges serve
for chests, when they are not used for their
proper purpose, by constructing a sort of
roof or convex covering, with an opening
in the middle, to admit whatever they
choose to store up within. This opening
shuts with a moveable lid. Sledges in this
state occasionally serve for the conveyance
of goods from one place to another, the
covering keeping them dry.

Caps are made of the skin of the Colym-
hi(s circticus, (Black-throated Diver,) which
IS ^•ery tough when properly prepared.
This bird has a grey ring round its neck, as
described by Wormius.

I met with a Care.i, l)earing round cap-
sules, full of Ijlack powder. (Probably
Carcx pauicca, whose seeds are often in-
fected with the ii.stUago or smut.)

LULEAN LAPLAND. 99

July 26.

I shall here give a description of the
Achier or sledjj-e. This is a kind of travel-
ling machine invented by the Laplanders,
drawn along the ground like other sledges,
and made of birch wood. The back part
is upright, or nearly so, the lower part only
being somewhat sloping inwards, and its
form is roundish, the height a foot, the
breadth a foot and a half. The body of
the machine is like the hulk of a boat, with
an obtuse keel, and consists of five lon-
gitudinal boards on each side, lying one
over the edge of another ; that which forms
the keel being about an inch thick, and
lying flat like the others. Each board is not
externally plane, but convex, so that as the
carriao-e is drawn over the snow it leaves
several tracks or lines where it goes, the
board which forms the keel only being
quite flat. The boards, which are fixed at
one extremity in a circular manner to the
roundish board that makes the back, (or asi

li 2

100 LULE AX LAPLAXD.

il were the stern,) are collected by their
points at the other, and all bound together
with a rope, for there are no nails to fasten
them. The whole carriage is six feet in
length, and from the back part to within
two feet of the front its breadth is all the
way about four feet. From that spot the
keel begins to curve upwards, and the
transverse dimensions are contracted gra-
dually to a point. This sledge is drawn by
a rope that goes through a hole in the front
of the keel. The edges or sides of the
machine do not curve outwards, but rather
inwards. When any covering is to be put
on, which is always done in part when any
person is to travel sitting in this carriage,
and entirely, from one end to the other,
when it is intended to be used for the con-
veyance of goods, two or three semicircular
or archlike bows are erected, fixed by their
ends vtithin the edges of the carriage,
which serve to support a covering of seal-
skin, or cloth, ^\hose margin next the back
is loose, an J so far distant from that part

LULE AN LAPLAND. 101

as to allow the traveller to sit upright,
his legs lying under the eover, while the
said margin is tied round his waist, like an
apron, serving to keep the snow out of the
hollow part of the machine. The person
of the traveller is farther secured by
strings fixed to the eddies of the carriao:e,
which lace around him across the top, so as
to prevent his being thrown out by any
oblique or unexpected movement. Each
board, which composes the body of the
sledge, is somewhat convex on the inside,
but still the whole internal surface is suffi-
ciently smooth and even. The point in
front sometimes projects a foot beyond the
hollow part*.

* La Motraye, after describing the Lapland sledge,
observes that " it is attached by a single trace or
thong, passing under the belly of the reindeer, and
fixed to a leather collar which goes round the animal's
neck. A long cord made of twisted fir bark, tied to
his horns, serves, when pulled in a straight line, to
stop his course, or, when drawn toward either side,
to turn him in that direction. When this cord is
made to strike him gently, by a vertical motion, on

102 LULEAN LAPLAND.

It is worthy of notice that the Lap-
landers use no ahnanack, but in its stead
only a kind of instrument like the ancient
runic calendar of the Goths, composed of
seven small sj)linters or l)oards. They
ha\ e indeed names to mark some periods,
as already mentioned p. 62 ; but they do
not, like us, compute time by the month,
but by the course of their various holidays.
They have also a name for every '.veek.
They are unable to tell when an eclipse of
the sun or moon is to be expected. The
year begins, by their reckoning, on the
Friday before Christmas day.

The people in the part of the country
where I was now travelling wear, in summer-
time, either a coat of walmal cloth next the
skin, or no coat at all, only a lappmudd as
they call it, (or garment of reindeer skin,)
stripped of its hair.

the back, it urges him to greater speed. The overturn
of the sledge, where the road is uneven, is prevented
by a slick, which serves, like the oar or paddle ot a
boat, to guide its course."

LULEAN LATLAND. 103

At sun-set we reached Purkijaur, where
we ill vain attempted to procure a boat.
We had no resource but to make ourselves
a float or raft, on which we committed our
persons and aU our property to the guidance
of the current of the river. The night
proved very dark in consequence of a thick
fog, insomuch that we could not see before
us to the distance of three fathoms. After
a while we found ourselves in the middle of
the stream, and it was not long before the
force of the water separated the timbers of
our raft, and we were in imminent danger
of our lives. At length however, with the
greatest difficulty, we reached a house si-
tuated on an island, after a voyage of half
a mile from where we embarked*.

* Linnaeus records this misfortune in his Flora
Lapponica, at n. 42, see ed. 2. p. 27, where, in speak-
ing of Arundo Caiamagrostis, he says he " presumes
the synonyms are rightly applied, though he had no
opportunity of comparing his plant with books and
descriptions, having lost the specimen, with various
other natural productions, by being cast away as he

104 LULEAN LAPLAND.

At Piirkijaur I hired a man to show me
the manner of fishing for pearls, for which
I agreed to pay him six dollars. He made
a raft of five timhers as thick as my body,
and two fathoms in length. At each end
was a staple to which the anchor was at-
tached. This anchor was nothing more
than a stone, tied round with twigs of birch
that it might not be lost, to which he fast-
ened a cord, about two fathoms in length,
made of birch twigs. He was likewise fur-
nished with a pole of the same length,
which served him to steer his raft, as it
floated along the strong current. The
bottom of the river is not easily seen at any
great depth ; but when he could distinctly
perceive it, he dropped his stone anchor,
fixing the upper end of the rope to the
staple on the raft, by which it became sta-
tionary. Whenever he wished to examine
another spot, he weighed anchor, and re^

was descending one of the great rivers of Lapland."
The synonym of Morison at least, which he has thus
by memory applied, proves to be erroneous.

\

LULEAN LAPLAXD. 105

si^'ned himself to the force of the current.
Where the water was shallow, he stood up-
right on his raft ; but where the depth was
considerable, he lay at full length, with his
face downwards, looking over the edge of
the raft.

By means of a pair of wooden pincers,
two fathoms in length, he laid hold of the
pearl oysters (rather muscles, Mi/a mar-
garitifcra^) and drew them up. The part
of the pincers below the joint or hinge was
about a span long, and of three fingers
breadth, hollowed out at the points, one of
which was curved, the other flat. Taking the
other end of these pincers in his hands, he
easily directed them to the spot where he
saw the shells lying.

The latter were generally open, so that
they might readily be discerned by the
whiteness of their inside ; but when the
water is very much agitated, the animals
immediately close their shells, though de-
stitute of eyes or ears.

The form of the shell is elliptic-oblong,

106 LULE AN LAPLAJJD.

■with a contraction, or shallow notch as it
Mere, about the niiildle of their outer mar-
gin. The man opened them by means of
a whilk shell, which he thrust with A'iolence
between the valves, for it is impossible to
effect tliis with the finger only. He intro-
duced the point of the whilk in the centre
of the base, or broader end, of the muscle,
searching for the pearls chiefly towards the
other end, on the inside of the valve. If
the inside of the latter be white, the pearl
is white ; but if dark or reddish, the pearl is
of the same colour.

When it was first discovered that this
neighbourhood produced pearls, the river
at Purkijaur was the place where the prin-
cipal pearl-fishery was established. But
now it is nearly exhausted. When the
discovery of this bed of pearl muscles was
first made, it is said the shells were in such
abundance that nobody could reach the
bottom of them, which is far from being
the case at present.

There is no external sion about the shell,

LULEAN LAPLAND. 107

by which it is possible to know whether
it contains a pearl or not. Consequently
many thousands are destro3^ed to no pur-
pose before one pearl is found. It is also a
great pity that all the muscles are killed in
consequence of this examination. Each
pearl is either attached to the shell, or loose.
They are found at all seasons of the year,
and are sometimes thrown out of the shell
spontaneously by its inhabitant.

I witnessed at this place what appeared
to me a very extraordinary phtenomenon,
a pike in whose stomach, when opened, was
found a young duck entire. The peasant
who was my companion told me he had
many times seen the same thing.

July 27.
The reindeer fed with evident avidity on
the great water Horsetail [Equisetitm Jiu-
viutile), which the Laplanders call A, ske,
though it was in a dry state, and though
they will not eat common hay. How unac-
countably negligent are the Laplanders,

108 LULE AN LAPLAXD.

not to collect in the course of summer a
stock of this plant and of the Reindeer-moss
[Liclicn I'CDigiJ'erinus) for winter fodder!
They would then ha^e some provision for
the herd, when the country is covered with
an impenetrable crust of frozen snow, and
not hazard the loss of all they are worth
in the world.

The inhabitants of ¥/estbothnia, to de-
fend themselves against the bites or gnats,
besmear their skin with a mixture of tar
and fish-grease, or some other kind of fat.
They keep this composition in a horn which
hangs at their side. The Laplanders how-
ever give themselves no trouble about any
such matter.

In order to add to the puno-encv of the
tobacco which they are in the habit of
chewing, the Laplanders mix with it the
root 0^ Angelica. [A. Archangelica is pre-
ferred, but when that is not at hand, the
sylvestria is used, as appears from the Flora
Lapponka.)

The women wear their belts in the same

LULEÅ N LAPLAXD. 109

manner as the men, except when they are
big with child, in which case the belt must
necessarily be placed much higher than
ordinary.

This day I found the little heart-leaved
Ophrys (0. cordaia) growing, as it usually
does, amongst the Biibiis Chamccworus,
whilst I was gathering the fruit of the latter.
Also the least Pinguicula (P. viilosa); but
its leaves were withered, and the fruit was
ripe, which is heartshaped and emarginate,
of two valves and one cell. The last-men-
tioned plant grew among White-moss
[Sphagnum polusti^e. These specimens are
still preserved in the Linnaean herba-
rium.)

The bird called (by the Swedes) Lapp-
skata, Rodfo2:elin Westbothland, Gvousach
in Lapland, [Corvus iiifaustiis^ Faun. Suec.
32. Lath, Inch 1.59- Lanius infaustus,
Si/st. Nat. V. 1. 138.) is of a small size,
but it audaciously lays hold of any thing it
can find, being so far fiom timid that it
flew away with part of our provisions as

110 LULEAN LAPLAND.

we sat at table. This bird seems nearly
allied to the Jay {Corviis g km (hu- i its).

It is only in winter the clothes of the
Laplanders have any sort of lining, except
that these people generally wear, next the
stomach, the skin of a young reindeer fawn.
The sleeves of their coats are not fixed
to the jacket, or body of the garment.
The part which covers the shoulder folds
over the top of the sleeve, in the shape of
a wedge. A seam reaches the whole length
of the jacket, from top to bottom, on each
side, the jacket becoming gradually wider,
downward. It reaches as low as the mid-
dle of the leg. The collar is for the most
part blue, stitched with white thread.

The reindeer are not slaughtered in the
same manner as cattle usually are either at
Stockholm or in Smoland. The animal
being secured with a halter, the Laplander
takes his spear and sticks it into the thorax
behind the shoulder, so as to pierce the
heart. By this means the blood collects
in the cavity of the thorax, none of it ap-

LULEAN LAPLAND. Ill

pearing externally. After the skin is flayed
off, the blood is found coagulated in the
thorax, from whence it is extracted, and
bruised into a soft mass. With this the
poorer sort of people make a kind of soup,
by boiling along with it the brains of the
animal, which the rich do not eat. The
testicles are never eaten by any sort of
people. The penis serves to make a thong
to draw the sledges.

Such of the Laplanders as inhabit the
forests go to the alps at midsummer and
return about St. Laurence's day (Au-
gust 10th) ; and the mountain Laplanders
descend into the lower country between the
first of November and Christmas, and go
back again about Lady-day.

All kinds of clothing made of skins
are sewed with sinews of animals, as be-
fore described ; but those of w^almal cloth,
with hempen thread purchased from the
neighbouring countries.

112 LULEÅ N LAPLAXD.

Juhj 28.

To-day I found the Pseudo-helleborine t
(possibly Cypripedhim Calceohis, not be-
fore mentioned in this journal.)

All tlie little rills and rivulets hereabouts
produced a Potamogeto?i, M'hich I mus
doubtful whether to distinguish from the
common kind, as it varies excessively in ap*
pearance, but the leaves are more grassy*
(P. gramincuni^ as appears from the Flora
Lappo?iica, 3'et nothing can be less like the
" common kind," if by the latter be meant
the nalanSy which, with the pcrfoliatum
and gramlneum, compose the catalogue of
species in Fl. Lapp.)

Hereabouts grew the Jiuicus vvith three
setids(capsifle^) at the top of the stem, which
also I observed to be sometimes reflexed.
(.7. trighnms; see Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. 90.)

Several days ago the forests had been set
on fire by lightning, and the flames raged
at this time with great violence, owing to
the drought of the season. In many dif-
ferent places, perhaps in nine or ten that

LULEAN LAPLAND. 113

came under my notice, the devastation ex-
tended several miles' distance. I traversed a
space three quarters of a mile in extent which
was entirely burnt, so that Flora, instead
of appearing in her gay and verdant attire,
was in deep sable, a spectacle more abhor-
rent to my feelings than to see her clad in
the white livery of winter, for this, though
it destroys the herbage, leaves the roots in
safety, which the fire does not. The fire
was nearly extinguished in most of the spots
we visited, except in ant-hills, and dry
trunks of trees. After we had travelled
about half a quarter of a mile across one
of these scenes of desolation, the wind be-
gan to blow with rather more force than it
had done, upon which a sudden noise arose
in the half-burnt forest, such as I can only
compare to what may be imagined among
a large army attacked by an enemy. We
knew not whither to turn our steps. The
smoke would not suffer us to remain where
we were, nor durst we turn back. It seem-
ed best to hasten forward, in hopes of

VOL. II. I

114 LULKAN LAPLAXD.

speedily reaching the outskirts of the MOod;
but in this \vc were disappointed. We ran
as fast as we could, in order to avoid being
crushed by the fallino- trees, some of which
threatened ns every minute. Sometimes
the fall of a huge trunk was so sudden,
that we stood aghast, not knowing whither
to turn to escape destruction, and throw ing
ourselves entirely on the protection of Pro-
vidence. In one instance a large tree fell
exactly between me and my guide, who
walked not more than a fathom fiom mc,
but, thanks to God ! we both escaped in
safety. We were not a little rejoiced when
this perilous adventure terminated, for we
had felt all the while like a couple of out-
laws, in momentary fear of surprise.

I have long ago related my sufferings
from gnats in the course of my Lapland
expedition. In this place I was still more,
incommoded by some very small flies,
about a line in length and very narrow.
Their breast was of a blueish grey. Front
of the head whitish, with black eves. Wings

LULEAN LAPLAND. 11.5

pellucid. Body greyish, oblong and nar-
row. A while scale was placed on each
side at the insertion of the wings. The
legs were black, witli a white joint in the
middle of each, the base being speckled.
The hind part of the shoulders was whitish.
Antenuce simple, minute, parallel, and point-
ing right forward. The wings lay one over
the other so as to resemble a single one,
notched at the extremity, when the insect
was at rest. Each of os was beset by a
whole lep;ion of these flies towards sun-set.
What rendered them peculiarly trouble-
some was their manner of running over
the face, and flying into the nose, mouth
and eyes. When they were approaching
in order to inflict their bite, they w^re not
to be driven away by our blowing ever so
hard. The Laplanders call these insects
Mockeix, allydiiig to the smallness of their
head ; the Swedes Knott. {Culex reptans.
Linnaeus mentions in the Fauna Suecica
the extremely tiresome noise made by these
gnats in their approach.) They covered

I 2

116 LULEAN LAPLAXD.

onr linen so as to render it quite black. It
was to no purpose to attempt to drive them
away. (See v. 1. 208.)

I visited the Laxholnis, islands so called
from the salmon iishery. Here the Com-
mon Salmon (Sabno Salar, named Lax by
the Swedes,) is found with the under jaw
occasionally hooked, which variety is term-
ed Krokla.v, or Hooked Salmon. I inquired
whether this hooked kind was esteemed a
distinct species, or whether a difference
arising from age ; to both which questions
I was answered in the negative. I was
shown fish of the smallest size, which had
in proportion as large a hook to the lower
jaw as the largest. Bonge has therefore
fallen into an error in his dissertation upon
salmon. (Daniel Bonge, Dissertatio dt
Sahnonum natura, eorumque apud Ostro-
hothnienses piscatione, UpsaL 1730. 4to.
under the presidency of Professor Roberg,
with wooden cuts.) I inquired whether
the hooked salmon were furnished with roe
or with milt. I was answered that they

LULEAN LAPLAND. 117

had alsvays milt. On opening seven of
them I found this verified, whereas four
salmon which were not hooked had all of
them roes. The hooked (or male) salmon
is so called, hecause the point of its lower
jaw is bent inward, and has a taper form,
resembling a finger; while on the contrary
the upper is furnished with a cavity to re-
ceive that point, embracing it like a sheath,
for about half its length. The female fish
has a more obtuse lower jaw, but not less
in flexed, there being only a very slight
furrow in the upper one ; so that the two
sexes may be distinguished from each other
by these marks from the earliest age.

Those who fish for salmon come to this
place about a fortnight before midsummer,
and remain till St. Bartholomew's day,
August 24th, as during that space of time
the salmon keep ascending the river. After
the day last mentioned none of the fisher-
men remain. Few of the fish escape being
taken, so as to return down the river.
At Michaelmas the fishermen come here

118 LULEAN LAPLAND.

aoain, when ihey catch a smaller sort of
salmon.

This (lay I observed tlie harvest begin-
ning. The corn now cutting, though sown
but a few days before midsummer, was
nevertheless quite ripe. The lent rye was
not yet ripe enough to be cut, but the
winter rye ripens some time before the
other corn. Tims it appears that corn
(barley) springs up and ripens at this place
in the space of sixty days.

In my walks I gathered the berries of
the Strawberry-leaved Bramble (Rabus
arcticus), which proved delicious. They
have somewhat of the flavour of Black-
berries [Riihifs fnitico.sif.s), but are more
agreeable. This fruit does not separate
from its calyx like other species of its ge-
nus. It is a compound berry, in size and
structure somewhat between what the Smo-
landers call Kodden {Rnbifs saxatilis), and
Raspberries [R. idceiis). Its colour is a
brownish crimson.

The (Pediculai'is) Sccptrum Carolinum

LULEAX LAPLAND. 119

is perennial, with scalt\s, not a fibrous tutt or
beard, at the root*. The stem is round, not
quadrangular. Calyx iive-cleftj-. Lower lip
regular, divided into three equal segments.

Pedicular is with a purple head (Bartsia
alpina, Linn. Sp. PL 839- Efigl- Bot,
t. 36' I . Euphrasia. Fl. Lapp. n. 246.)
shows an affinity to the Crista Galli (Rhi-
nanthus) in its caljx, which is divided into
four equal acute segments. The fruit is
ovate and acute, compressed at the point.
Lower lip straight. All the other Pedicu-
lares, except Sceptrum CaroUnum, have an
oblique fruit.

Here and there grew specimens of Heath
{Erica vulgaris) with tufted branches,
looking like a pruned spruce fir, and very
beautiful.

The water of the river now began to de-
crease, in consequence of which it became

* This account does not agree with the de-
scription in the Flora Lapponica, but is the most
correct.

t This also is correct.

120 LULEAX LAPLAND.

clearer, and it was more (liflicult to catch
any fish.

Scarcely any species of" Career was to be
found this season but what had some de-
gree of smut or ustilago about its spikes,
consisting of httle globular black bodies,
changing to dust.

July 29.

Tanning of leather is thus performed by
the Laplanders.

The scaly cuticle of the birch being first
stripped off, the bark is then scraped from
the tree and boiled fresh in water, for about
as long a time as is requisite to boil fish ;
being afterwards set by to cool, to a cer-
tain degree, that it may not injure the hide
by being too hot. The latter, having pre-
viously been scalded, by dipping into luke-
warm water, is then soaked in the decoc-
tion of bark, and the vessel containing it
sunk into a hole dug in the ground, at the
extremity of the hut. The hide is taken
out every day, and softened in luke-warm

LULEAN LAPLAND. 121

water, till the hair becomes loose, when it
is scraped oft' bj such a knife as tanners
use. The skin is then replaced in the tan
when cool, without any previous drying,
till the third day after the hair comes off,
when it is hung up to dry in the shade.
When the leather is but half dry, they
often cut it up for shoes, which are always
made by the women, without any last.
The thread used for the purpose is that
made of tendons.

Some persons never scald the hide, but
scrape oft' the hair with a knife, soak it a
little in water, and then plunge it into the
tan.

Near Swartlår I noticed a mineral spring,
but whatev^er may be its qualities, nobody
has yet made any inquiries concerning
them.

The river Lulea divides into two branches,
not far above the bounds of Lapmark
and Westbothnia, one of which is called
the little river Lulea, whose origin is among
the mountains towards Hyttan, the other

122 LULEAX LVPLAND.

Stor Luleå, running from the alps in Nör-
battra.

JiiIH 30.

On examinnig the cultivated Hop [llu-
mulus Lupulus), I found the structure of
the female as follows. Calyx consisting of
an universal involucrum of four leaves, and
a partial one, likewise of four ovate leaves,
containing eight florets, each of which has
an ovate spatha, of a very large size with
respect to the rudiments of the fruit. Pe-
tals none. Pistils two, horn-like. Stigmas
acute. Seed-vessel none, the base of the
spatha enclosing the seed, which is solitary.

The shore of the river Lulea produced,
in excessive abundance, the \yater Sedum
{Tlllaa aquatica) ; likewise the Aquatic
Dwarf Plantain {Limosella aquatica). The
Spiked Water-grass, with a bent stem, here
grew above other plants, twisting its leaves
round them, like a sort of bindweed. (J/o-
pecurus geniculaim /3. Sp, Fl. 89- See
FL Lapp. n. 38.)

LULEAN LAPLAND. 123

The Water Sedum {T'llUca aquatica)
prov^ed no less plentiful by the sides of the
roads.

In the river I gathered an herb, \\hich
I was doubtful whether to refer to Stellaria
(Callitriche), to Fofatnogeton, or to the
Aponogeton of Pontedera. (This appears to
have been the latter, ZannicheUia palusiris.)

I reached the old town of Lulea in the
evening.

It rained and thundered violently durincr
the whole niirht.

JulyS\.

This day I had intended to prosecute my
journey towards Tornea, but a heavy rain,
with tremendous thunder and lightning,
confined me entirely to the house.

The wife of the principal clergyman of
Lulea, on whose accuracy I have the great-
est possible dependance, assured me that
she had, at the posthouse of Biorsio, in the
parish of Torp, in Medelpad, seen large
quantities of tlie Yellow Aconite (Aconituni

124 LULKAN LAPLAND.

lycoctonum ; see vol. 1. 36"), collected and
boiled for the use of the table, like cabbage.
This astonished her very much, as she
knew it to be used in Jemthmd to poison
flies. When she expressed her apprehen-
sions about eatino* of this herb, the maid-
en '

servant lauo'hed at her, tellins: her it was
much too good to be so slighted.

Hares are always hunted in this part of
the country, and the dogs are trained not
to bark. If they offend in this respect they
are sure of a beating.

August 1.

I found some Trufries(L?/co/?e?Y/o;i Tuhev)
between Heden and Swartl'd.

Near the road grew Glaux [maritima),
as well as the Narrow -leaved Sea Plantain
(Plaiitago maritima), and Small-leaved
Angelica (A. sylveatris). On a bank I ob-
served Triticum maritimum. (This last is
thought by Dr. Afzelius to be Elijmus arc-
narius. See Fl. Lapp. ed. 2. n. 34.)

Here various plants, which I had found

LULEAN LAPLAND. 1'25

blossoming at Umoea, were now laden with
fruit, as the Mesomora [Coruus siiecica),
Vaccinia (Whortle-berries), ChamcEfnorits
(Rubus ChamcEmorus, Cloud-berry), and
Chamcerubiis [R. saxatilis, Stone Bramble),
all which vied with each other in the pro-
fusion of their berries. But little Line:
(Erica) was to be seen.

The hills are but trifling. Rising grounds,
which had partly been burnt, were covered
with Spruce firs, and even with Reindeer-
moss [Lichen rangiferinus).

Towards evening I arrived at Tornea.
The weather was fine.

Near Grotnas, situated opposite to the
church of Calix, is a ferry to convey pas-
sengers to this church, adjoining to which
the inhabitants of Lulea and Tornea keep
a fan*.

The river produces abundance of Flote-
grass, which at this time bore its spikes or
heads of flowers. I had long been acquaint-
ed with the plant, it being very abundant
in this country as well as in Smoland, and

156 LIJLKAN LAPLAND.

had wondered what species it could be ;
especially as I never heard of any botanist
who had met with the tVactiiication. It is
a Sp(irga?iiin/i, whose leaves are very long,
reaching a fallioin or Iwo^ according to the
depth of the water, and floating on its sur-
face. Thev are convex at their back, ex-
cept in the lower part, which is flat on
both sides. (This plant named Flofagrcis,
or Flote-grass, in Linnaus's native country
of Smoland, is the Sparganium n. 345 * of
FL Lapp, in the second edition of which
work I have called it S. rmians, on his own
authority in the Flora Siiccica and Species
Vlantarum ; but in Fnglish Botany, v. 4.
273, andl'Y. Brit. 9^2, this error is cor-
rected, so far at least as concerns the ori-
ginal Lapland specimen, which is unques-
tionably «S'. simplex., EngL Bot, v. 11.
t, 745, a species he did not, in his w^orks,
distinouish from our common S. ramosum,
t. 744. I am novv persuaded he confound-
ed this simplex with tlie natans in his Lap-
land tour, as well as in his herbarium,

LLTLEAN LAPLAND. 127

where the orighial specimens of the two are
phmed together.)

August 2.

They dry their corn upon drying sheds
as is practised in Smoland. The cross
piece is turned towards the south, but the
method here differs from that of the Smo-
landers in one respect. The latter place one
sheaf on the top of another, but the inha-
bitants of Westbothnialay the sheaves cross-
wise, in an alternate order, each thinking
their own method the best for procuring
the most complete ventilation. In this
country fifteen sheaves are lodged under
each shed, without supporters ; but in Smo-
land twelve only, ten of which are in the
main pile and two at the sides. The Smo-
landers therefore are able to reach high
enough to place their uppermost sheaves by
hand, but the inhabitants of Westbothnia
find it necessary to be provided with what
they term a Skyllkro/c, or Rick-hook, con-
sisting of a round pole, Mitli a transverse

128 LULEAN LAPLAND.

projecting piece of wood, (like a direction-
post in England, as appears by the sketch
in the manuscript,) by means of which each
sheaf is lifted up.

On a heath very near the river Sangis I
noticed some earth of a red colour. The
dry part of the forest which had been burnt
down, produced Reindeer-moss (Lichen
rangiferinuii) in such abundance, that the
whole face of the ground was covered with
it.

The evening was fine when 1 reached
Zangis (or Sangis), where I took leave of
my native tongue.

August 3.

At sun-rise the marshes were all white
with hoar frost. In the preceding night
winter had paid his first visit, and slept in
the lap of the lovely Flora. I did not ob-
serve that she had suffered from her rude
visitor, except with regard to the Dracon-
tiiim (Calla palustris)^ the leaves of which
assumed a pallid aspect. The plants latest

tULEAN LAPLAND. 129

in bloom at this place, are Erica (vulga-
ris), the Red-flowered Persicaria (Poly go-
num Fersicaria), and Hieracium pi^cemor-
sum (Leontodoji autumnale, Sp. PL 1123.
Hechfpnois autumnalis, FL Brit, 826.
Engl Bot. t. 830.)

On leaving Sangis, I left my mother-
tongue behind me. At Saris I met with
native Finlanders only, whose language was
unintelligible to me.

Here grew the Masarooth (Selinum pa-
lustre) with a proliferous umbel.

The mouse-traps used here are made
like those for catching squirrels ; which I
have already described.

Between Zeivis (perhaps Saris) and Tor-
iiea are three ferries to pass. In my way I
noticed a new species of Stellaria {Calli-
tricJie), of a small size, not leafy at the top,
erect, not creeping like the S. minor ; (see
FL Lapp» w. 2. var. y.) It had the ap-
pearance of Potamogeton graminifoUum
(gramineum^. (What particular state or
appearance of the Callitriche this might be,

VOL. II. K

130 TORNKA.

does not appear, nor is it mentioned in JF7.
Lapp.)

I reached Tornea by three o'clock.

TORNE A.

August 4.

A reindeer may be driven in a carriage
twelve (Swedish) miles in a day, or, at the
utmost, fifteen ; but the animal is generally
killed immediately afterwards with the Lap-
landers' s]>ears, and eaten.

The Laplanders are perhaps so called
from the (Swedish) word lappa, to sew or
patch together, because their garments
usually answer to that description.

The degree of cold is certainly greater on
the alps than in less elevated regions ; for
instance, it is colder in Jämtland than at
Tornea, though the former lies about one
hundred miles further south. Thus it
appears that the cause of the severity of
the cold does not depend so much on the
approach towards the pole, as on the ele-

TORNEAé 131

Vatlon of the ground, which ought to be
carefully observed. Hence the plants of
the north of Lapland are such only as are
capable of resisting the most severe and
long-'continued cold, and hence snow lies
on the alps of Italy.

Alpine plants are, for the most part,
perennial, except the Little Blue Centaury
{Gentiana nivuUs), and perhaps the Single-
flowered Lychnis {apetala). I wish bota-
nists would endeavour to discover and make
known any new kinds of pulse or grain, es-
pecially such as are of a hardy constitution,
and not likely to suffer from the severity of
winter. Some are perhaps to be found
among the grasses. It is necessary to as-
certain what degree of northern latitude
they would bear, and whether they are ca-
pable of growing within the frigid zone.
It is worthy of inquiry in what respects
the Alps, properly so called (of Switzer-
land,) agree with ours of Lapland, as well
as how far, and by what means, they are
susceptible of culture. The descriptions

13^ TORXEA.

that have been given of them may be con-
sulted. The Greenland alps would also be
worth examining, to see how far these dif-
ferent countries agree in their native plants,
in varieties of situation, and in plenty of
soil, compared with the proportion of rocks
or large stones. Do they all agree in the
diminutive stature of their plants ?

The tranquil existence of the Laplanders
answers to Ovid's description of the golden
age, and to the pastoral state as depicted
by Virgil. It recalls the remembrance of
the patriarchal life, and the poetical de-
scriptions of the Elysian fields.

So many Finlanders crowded about me,
that I scarcely knew what to do. They
were all blear-eyed to such a degree as to
be nearly blind. Many of them were per-
fectly deprived of sight, and ninety-nine
out of a hundred that were so had their
eyes shut. It seems in vain to prescribe
any remedy for this evil, so long as its
cause is every where so prevalent. This
consists in their smoky dwellings. If I had

TORNEA. 133

the management of these Finlanders, I would
tie them up to the wall and give them fif-
teen pair of lashes apiece till they made
chimneys to their huts, especially as they
have such plenty of fire-wood. This im-
provement in the comfort of their dwellings
might surely be accomplished by the au-
thority of the chief magistrate, for I have
not been able to learn any sufficient reason
for their adherence to their old way of
building. If people thirty or forty years
of age are thus afflicted, what must become
of them by the time they are seventy ?

The Finlander's scythe is represented in
the annexed figure.

The handle is rather above two feet in
length, straight for about the space of a
foot from the part where the blade is
bound on. Afterwards it is slightly curv-
ed outwards, and then again, towards the
apex, in some degree inwards, so as to
make a straight line with the base. The
top is thicker than any other part. The
blade of the scythe is, like that used in our

134

TORNEA.

TORNE A. 135

country, about a foot and a half lono-,
and an inch and half broad, very shghtly
curved. Its back is, hke that of our scythes,
thickened on one side. The mower takes
hold of the top with his left hand, so that
the back of the scythe is uppermost, but
grasps M'ith his right the part where the
above-described curvature ends, so as to
be able to give the edge a turn upwards.
As he moves forward, he mows first on the
right, and then on the left, only turning
his hands, and not lifting the scythe, but
merely presenting each side of its blade
alternately to the ground.

On the south-west side of the town,
across a small bay, lies a mineral spring.
The water is not ill-tasted. Indeed this is
one of the best mineral waters I have met
with in the north ; but it lies very low, ap-
pearing to derive its origin from a stream
that runs above, so that its water comes
out soiled, as it were, from the earth, and
is covered with scum.

136 TOR NEA,

August 5.
Every body at Tornea was continually
talking to me oF a distemper to which their
horned cattle are subject, and which kills
many of them in the course of the winter,
but e:?pecially in the spring, when they lose
from fifty to a hundred head of cattle al-
most every year. On walking to examine
the meadow into which they are first turn-
ed out to grass, I found it a bog or marsh,
where the Water Hemlock, Cicuta aquati-
ca, (C. virosa, Sp. Fl. S66. FL Lapp,
n, 103. Engl. Bot. t. 479») grew in abun-
dance, and had evidently been cropped
plentifully by the animals in feeding. It
seemed probable therefore that they eat it
most in the spring, when first turned into
this pasture ; whence it proves so much
more extensively fatal than in summer,
when perhaps they only pick up a plant
here and there. It grows in all the moist
meadows which are mown for hay ; conse^

TORNEA. 137

quently the cattle take it likewise in their
winter food, and therefore perish, more or
less, during that time of the year. We
learn from Wepfer's experiments, who gave
it to various kinds of animals, what violent
symptoms it occasions. See his book. No-
thing appeared to me so interesting, during
my visit to Tornea, as to examine into the
cause and remedy of this evil. If my ideas
be right, the whole might be prevented by
employing a woman for a month to eradi-
cate all the Cicuta ; by which this town,
small as it is, mioht save above two bun-
dred silver dollars. I was informed that
the cattle dying from this cause become so
infectious, that they cannot be flayed with-
out great danger. The persons employed
in that business have their hands greatly
swelled by touching the carcase, and seve-
ral have lost their lives in consequence.
The plant in question, therefore, agrees in
qualities with the CEnanthe^ as it does like-
wise in place of growth and outward ap-

138 TORNEA.

pea ranee, especially in the pinncc of its
leaves.*

* A few further remarks on the above subject,
printed in ihe Beivra Lappuriica, may be acceptable to
the Enghsh reader.

'* This disease made no regular progress, nor was it
communicated by inrecfionlroni one animal to another.
The cows are driven all together in the spring to feed
in a meadow, near the town, to the southwest, on the
other side of a creek of the river, in vihich I was in-
formed the greatest mortality happened. The sym-
ptoms differ in different cases ; but all the cattle, feed-
ing indiscriiTiinately, are seized with a swelling of the
abdomen, attended with convulsions, and die with
horrid bellowing, in the space of a few days. No per-
son dares venture to flay the recent carcases, it having
been found by experience that not only the hands, but
even the face, in consequence of the warm steams
from the body, became inflamed and gangrenous, and
that death finally ensued.

" I was asked whether this disease was a kind of
plague; whether the meadow in question produced
any venomous spiders ; or whether the yellow-colour-
ed water was poisonous.

" That it was no plague aj^peared from its not being
contagious, and from the spring being its most fatal
season. 1 saw no spiders here, except what are com-
mon throughout all Sweden; nor was the yellow

i

TORNEA. 139

The meadows hereabouts, amonjr the
thickets towards the shore of the bay, af-
forded me the following plants.

1. Veronica {maritima), with an erect
stem, branched in the upper part, and

sediment of the water any thing more than a common
innocent ochre of iron.

** I had scarcely landed from the boat in which I was
taken to this meadow, than the Cicufa presented it-
self before me, and explained the cause of all this
destruction. It is most abundant in the meadow
where the cattle are first seized with the distemper,
especially near the shore. The slightest observation
teaches us that brute animals distinguish, bv natural
instinct, such plants as are wholesome to them, from
euch as are poisonous. The cattle therefore do not
eat this Hemlock in summer or autumn ; whence
few of them perish at those seasons, and such only as
devour the herb in question incautiously, or from an
inordinate appetite. But when they are first turned
out in the spring, partly from their eagerness for fresh
herbage, partly from their long fasting and starvation,
they seize with avidity whatever conies within their
reach. The herbage is then but short, and insufficient
to satisfy them ; probably also it is in general more
succulent, immersed under water, and scarcely per-
ceptibly scented ; so that they are unable to distinguish
the Vvholesoine from the pernicious kinds. I remarked

140 TORNEA.

bearins; numerous spikes. Lower leaves
acute, cordate-obloni^, sharply serrated, the
upper ones lanceolate, serrated, two, three,
or four together, opposite on the stalk. Co-
rolla tubular,dividcd two thirds of its length
into two lips, of which the upper is the broad-
est, ovate, obtuse, and nearly erect ; the
lower three-cleft, the middle segment nar-
rowest, but all of equal length. Stamens two,
very long, awlshaped, situated at the separa-
tion of the two lips. Hence the flower is of
the personate kind. Pistil reflexed. Capsule
heartshaped, narrow at the upper edge.
The flowers are numerous in each spike.
2. Selleri, (Apiu?n graveolens*,) unless

every where that the radical leaves only were cropped,
DO others ; which confirmed what 1 have asserted.
In a neighbouring meadow I saw this same plant cut
with the hay for winter food ; so that it is no wonder
if in that state some, even of the more cautious cattle,
are destroyed by it." Fl. Lapp. ed. -2. 76.

* This plant is not mentioned in the F'lora Lnp-
ponica, and tlic account ainiexed seems to belong to
Liguslkum scoticum, n. 107 of that work, with which
it well ao;rees.

TORNEA. 141

I am much mistaken. The petals are M'hite,
spreading, and acute. The partial umbels
are broad. The general one has very rarely
one or two (leaves of an involucrum ?).

3. Galium parisicnse {uUginosum), with
a square, furrowed, procumbent stem. The
leaves are lanceolate, broader towards the
extremity, acute, armed with little prickles
as well as the stem. The flower is not tu-
bular, nor the seeds prickly. The latter
are white, as is also the flower. Four
leaves grow together in the lower part of
the stem, but in the upper part six. Under
the little umbels of flowers are either four
or two.

4. Gal'ium album (boreale). Stem square,
erect, branched, especially in the upper
part. Leaves four together, sessile, rather
broader towards their base, three-nerved,
slightly reflexed at the margin. There are
two leaves to each of the lesser umbels.
Seeds two, roundish, joined into a didy-
mous shape, downy. Flower not tubular.
5. Criiciata, if I am not mistaken. (G«-

142 tORNKA*

Hum pahmtve, that is, Cruel at a palitsfrls
alba of Tournefort.) Leaves four, ovate-
oblong, bluntisb, narrower towards tbeir
base. Flower, I believe, not tubular. See
what I gathered in tlie woody parts of
Lulean Lapland. (This was the same spe*
cies, as appears by the Fl. Lapp.)

6. Clijmcmtm paris'icnse {Lat hyr us pa*
lusiria)- Stem triangidar, two of its angles
ending in wings, or having a dilated (Com-
pressed border. There are two little ob*
long pointed angular leaflets at the insertion
of the leaves, which latter are pinnated,
ending in a tendril, and composed of two
or three pair of nearly lanceolate pinna:.
The flowers are violet-coloured, three or
four on each common stalk.

7. Angelica tenuifolia (sylvesfri.s), which
I would define A. umbdluUti glohosis. The
general umbel, though often naked, is
commonly furnished with one, two, or as
far as five, very slender leaves ; each partial
one has often as many as eight. It is curi-
ous that when the plant blooms vigorously.

TORNEA. 143

nonö of the stalks of the umbel can be
seen, but the flowers form a complete ball,
like the Double Guelder-rose [Samhucus
Opu/us, jiore plena,) or the Globe Thistle
{Echinops Splictroceplialus). The petals are
lanceolate and spreading. Stem striated,
or slightly furrowed.

8. Cicuta aquatica of Wepfer (C. virosa
above mentioned). I am disposed to refer
this plant to CEnanthe, on account of its
external aspect, which is wonderfully like
the last-mentioned genus. I must examine
whether their flowers agree. The footstalks
are hollow, inflated, and erect. Piniue three,
rarely four, pair, of a narrow lanceolate
shape. Those on the stem have from three
to seven serratures each, but the radical
ones have more, all distinct ; and some-
times the lowermost serrature, at the lower
edge, grows out into a sort of spurious
pinniila. The top of the stem bears from one
to three umbels ; the general umbel being
naked, or rarely fiu'nished with a solitary

144 TORNEA.

leaflet*. The partial ones have seven short,
narrow, acute leaflets. The tips of the pe-
tals are inflexed.

9. {Pedicularis) Sceptrum CaroUniim,
Its capsules are rose-coloured, its flowers
yellowish white tipped with flesh-colour,
and obtuse. The capsules are about equal
to the interstices of the spike, which all
together is about four inches long.

Äugud 6.

The day of the holy sabbath, and there-
fore a day of recreation for both mind and
body. I saw in the church (of Tornea) a
memorial of King Charles the Xlth^s own
observation of the sun on the 14th of June,
1694. The sun was visible on that night
till very near twelve, when a small cloud
hid it from the sight. It was however above

* Linnaeus in this description denominates these
leaflets, whether of the general or partial involucrum,
rndiij a term he always subsequently used for the
istalks of the umbels.

TORXEA. 145

the horizon*. In winter the sun does not
rise above the horizon, but at the solstice
it becomes visible. Could it be seen from
the pole?

The young women in Finland have much
more swelling bosoms than those of Lap-
land ; the latter accord best with the de-
scription of the poet,

" Qiiales cruda viro pnella servat."

{Mart. lib. 8. ep. 63.)

* King Charles the Eleventh, on his visit toTornea
in 1694, was accompanied by Count G. Douglas the
Lord Lieutenant, Count Piper Counsellor of Chan-
cery, J. Höghusen Counsellor of the Board of War,
and some other learned men, and in the night be-
tween the 13th and 14th of June saw, from the belfry
of the church, the midnight sun, at that time visible
there to a person placed on such an elevation. The
year following. Professors Bilberg and Spole were
sent to Tornea to repeat these observations. The royal
visit to Tornea was commemorated by a medal struck
on the occasion, having on one side the bust of the
king; on the reverse, a representation of the sun half
above the horizon, with this motto. Soli mocciduo Sol
olv'ms alter ; and beneath. Iter Regis ad Botniam Oc-
cidentaleni) Mense Junio 1 694.
VOL. II. L

146 TORNEA.

August 7.

The town of Tornea stands on a small,
island, inhabited close to the shore on the
south-west side. I call it an island, be-
cause it is bounded on the north by a
swamp ; on the south-east by the great ri-
ver of Tornea ; on the west and south-west
by an arm of the sea, like a large river in
appearance, but so shallow that no vessel
can approach within a mile of the town on
that side. This arm of the sea was for-
merly the king's road, (a channel obliged
to be kept open,) but now it is almost dry
in summer time, on the north side, towards
the swamp.

I ascended the steeple from whence his
majesty king Charles the Eleventh saw the
sun at midnight on the 14th of June, 1694.

August 8.
Nothing worth notice occurred.

August 9'
Leaving Tornea, I proceeded to Kimi,

KIMf. 147

where is a large salmon fishery, for which
this place is remarkable, as Liminge is for
its meadows, and Storhonis for its corn-
fields, but the last yield the greatest profit.

August 10.

I stayed at the house of the principal cler-
gyman in Kimi till the 11th. This day I
gathered a sort of Pink, Caryophyllus,
with reflexed petals of a purplish colour,
divided into many segments almost to their
base. The claws, not contracted at the
summit, bear on the upper side, at the
bend, a tuft of dull-coloured hairs. (This
was the beautiful and fragrant Diimthus
superbus.) Also a Sali.v with" appendages
at the base of its leaves. (What species
this was, does not appear.) At the shore
of the great river grew Alsine rep€?is, foliis
gramineis, (Stellaria uliginosa, FL Brit.
476. Engl. Bot. t. 1074.)

Lying-in women at this place are ac-
customed to drink brandy seasoned with
pepper, partly for the sake of its intoxicat-
L 2

148 KIMI.

ing qimlitj, by way of a narcotic, and
partly to bring on the labour pains. The
clergyman's wife told me an infallible me-
thod, as she said, to prevent the pains
which often follow childbirth. When the
woman's first child is born, and the umbi-
lical cord divided, a spoonful of the blood
is given her to swallow. This is to be prac-
tised at every succeeding labour, and I was
assured that each would be rendered more
easy, without any after pains.

In East Bothnia, as well as in Medelpad,
it is customary to have the dairy superin-
tended by a superior female servant, called
the faboclnj-, who receives for each cow
one pound of butter and one of cheese, be-
sides a pound of mesosmor. (See v. 1. 197.)

To obtain a greater quantity of butter,
the milk is set by, either in a cellar or in
a double-walled house, to be kept as cold
as possible, for at least two days, or so
long as that it will not stick to the finger.
The milk will not turn sour, but will be-
come very thin and blue, while the cream

KIMI. 149

collects on the top, of considerable thick-
ness and in great perfection. The cream
being taken off, and put into the churn,
often proves so rich, that after it has been
churned but a short time, if the churn be
laid on one side nothing will run out. It is
no small labour to churn such cream.

Of the remaining milk cheese is made, be-
ing warmed before it is coagulated. If the
milk has begun to turn sour, it will not do
for this purpose. Such thin milk as this is
not very fit for eating, but the whey which
separates from it in the making of cheese, is
by some people made into syra. (See v. 1.
243. n. 11.) This is done merely by put-
ting it, when cool, into a vessel or cask,
when, if set by for a considerable time, it
will become extremely tough. Most usu-
ally however it is boiled, and then kept for
two or three days, when, some new milk
being added, it is boiled up again to the
consistence of flummery, and then set by
in some kind of vessel. If it remains for
a long while without being touched, it

ijO K mi.

grows liard, and bt'comcs nicsosmör. (v. 1.
243. //. 12.) 'i'lic blue milk above men-
tioned may l)e boiled like fresh milk, and
does not readily turn sour.

Goa-mjölk., or rather Gaa-uiJ'OIIi, (from
the Swedish verb gasa, to work or ferment,)
is made as follows. The butter-milk is set
by in a tub till it begins to ferment, M'hen
about a third or fourth part of the quantity
of fresh milk is added, the whole being al-
lowed to work once more. A serum by
this time is formed at the bottom, which
is drawn oft" by means of a cock or lap, m
the bottom of the tub, and used immedi-
•atel}' for food. A similar portion of fresh
milk is then put to the remainder, when
more whey is, in due time, deposited. This
practice is repeated from time to time for
the space of a fortnight, at the end of
which the milk in the tub becomes of a
thick consistence, and is excellent eating.

Sei'vet-mj'6/k (Napkin Milk) is made by
taking a quantity of sour milk just begin-
ning to ferment, when bubbles, like by-

EAST BOTHLAND. lol

datids as it were, are formed between the
cream and the mUk. This is cut across in
various directions, and the thicker sub-
stance taken off and hang up in a n:ipkin,
that the hquid part may drain away. What
remains in the napkin acquires a firm con-
sistence, and is eaten along with fresh
sweet cream.

EAST BOTHLAND.
August 11.

I departed from the house of the chief
clergyman of Kimi, whose name is Forbus
or Forbers, and that of his wife Christian.

Here I observed the Lumnic of Wormius,
[Colijmhus arcticus; see v, 1. 27-) Its
outermost toes were largest, and most
naked; the next, or middlemost, smaller;
the thumb, or innermost, very small.

A skin of a squirrel, that had been
cauaht in winter, was white towards the
end of the rump, as were also the outer-
most toes, and the ears.

15^ EAST BOTHLAND.

In my journey this day I met with the
Sfratiote.s (aloidcs), and the Butomus {iim-
bellatus) ; as well as the Mesomora (Cornus
suecica), the spotted Falrna Christ I (Orchis
maculae a), and theGiiidiufn.(Th'is\iist could
be no other than the Mezereon, Daphne
Älezereum, formerly called CoccognicUiim.)
I found also the Ladies' Slipper {Cypri-
pediinn Calceolus), but it was almost out
of flower.

The calyx consists of four long, colour-
ed, lanceolate leaves, two of which, the
upper and lower, are longer and broader
than the two lateral ones. Petals two, the
uppermost mversely ovate, reflexed, bear-
ing the anthers. Is it the pistil ? The lower-
most inflated, obtuse, about an inch long.
Anthers two. Fruit below the flow^er, of
one cell, oval, with three principal and
three smaller angles, splitting laterally into
three valves, having a central column be-
tween them. The seeds adhere longitu-
dinally to the middle of the placenta (or

EAST BOTIILAND. 1.53

receptacle). The herb has the aspect of
VeratrujTi.

August 12.

The forests hereabouts are composed of
Bnxh and Spruce fir mixed with Pine {Finns
sijlvestris), and a Tittle Juniper (Jmiiperus
coinmuiih). The herbaceous plants grow
luxuriantly in these woods, and attain a re-
markable heio'ht. Berries of the Wild

o

Vine {Riibiis saxat His), the Vacciniiim
(Whortleberry), Mesomora {Cornus siieci-
ca), Empetrum (Crow or Crake-berry), and
(llubiis) Chamamorus, are here in abun-
dance. The (Pedicnlaris) Sceptrum Caro-
Unum presents itself every where in the
highway.

The pales, \\\\\\ which the fields are
fenced off, are placed horizontally against
upright posts.

The houses, or rather smoke-huts, are
called Pt/rter in this part of the country.
In these there is no proper fire-place, but
the whole is an oven, as it were, consisting
of the four walls of the house, with a flat

154 EAST nOTULAXD.

cieling. In the latter is a hole by way of
chimncv, but not partially covered by any
kind of lid, or trap-door, as in Norway,
(see roL 1. 3570 ^^ ^^^^ when the fire,
mado on a hearth under this opening, is
very smoky, it might be entirely opened
to let out the smoke. There is indeed a
sort of wooden window in the roof, but it
is rarely opened. The people think them-
sehes the Avarmer because the smoke can
escape by the door only, and are per-
suaded that they should be frozen to death
if they had a chimney ; which opinion seems
to me altoo-ether absurd. Would it not be

o

better to have chimneys, with a moderate
degree of warmth, than a heat like that of
a bagnio, with blind and sore eyes, and a
black sooty house? They lie on the floor
in the midst of this smoke, and that is their
only bed. Notwithstanding their opinion,
I cannot help thinking that full as much
cold air enters by the door, as there could
})y a chimney. The}' are so anxious to
keep themselves warm, that the v do not

EAST BOTH LAND. loJ

venture to have any windows, only shutters
in their stead ; indeed they seem to be as
fond of darkness as owls. I peeped into
one of these liouses through a shutter, and
within was perfect darkness. Nevertheless
there were several children and other per-
sons in the dwellino;. I could distino;uish
nothing but what seemed to me a pair of
glaring fiery eyes, like the devil, in a sort
of large jug. On looking more attentively,
I perceived that the object before me was
actually a jug or pot, in which I had al-
ready remarked that they were accustomed
to carry lighted embers, when wanted, to
their neighbours.

I am sure the peasants of Smoland often
make a fire sufficient to roast them alive,
though their houses are furnished with
chimneys, and their fires are made, as at
this place, with small pieces of wood. To
say the truth, few persons can be of opi-
nion that such excessive heat, in the winter
of this very severe climate, can be whole-
some.

1 have alrcadv mentioned that the inha^

156 EAST BOTIILAND.

bitants of these smoky dwellings have no
beds, but actually sleep on the floor. In
the summer season, however, they gene-
rally sleep in their barns. Round the in-
side of the above-described hut or cottage,
are ranged various tubs or wooden vessels.
In one corner, opposite to the spot where
the fire is made, stands a table.

As it would be impossible to bear a fire
in these dwellings during the heats of sum-
mer, their owners have another building
which serves them for a kitchen. This is
almost of the shape of the Laplanders'
huts, but double their width and height,
consisting of cloven beams or posts, such
as are used for the fences of the fields, only
not covered m, like the dwellino;s of the
Laplanders. In the centre, where all the
posts meet at the top, the pot is suspended
over the fire. Here they boil their provi-
sions, distil brandy, &c.

The stage-houses* are constructed like
those seen at some poslhouses in our part

* Stegcrhmen. I have not been able to make out
the precise meaning of this word.

EAST BOTHLAND. 157

of the country, having the centre of the
roof raised on longitudinal timbers. They
are lofty, but narrow. The wooden walls
curve outwards towards the top.

This year the crops of corn proved very
bad in this neighbourhood, so that the
inhabitants were obliged to chop their
chaff, with the upper part of the straw,
as fine as possible, of which, when ground,
they made bread. Others preferred the
bark of Pine-trees (Pinus sylvestris) for
this purpose. The fields of rye, sown in
the autumn, were at this time quite green.
The winter rye, sown last year, was not
yet cut. The sheaves are not laid upon
any stage, or under any cover, but are
placed ten together in a heap, standing
nearly upright, the uppermost sheaf being
laid across, so as to shelter the others.
They are afterwards carried into the kilns,
which at this place have exactly the ap-
pearance of bagnios, with ovens built of
boulder stones.

The fastenings of the doors are quite dif-

138 EAST BOTH LAND.

ferciit here iVoiii those used in Smolaii({,
which arc fixed into the floor, and capable
of being raised or depressed at pleasure.
The fasteninir here is a kind of lonjr button
upon the door, on the side where the hinges
are fixed, which beina: turned horizontally
over the door-post, prevents the opening of
the door.

By the road side grew an Amanita
(Agaric) with a stalk two inches high, and
as thick as a goose-quill. Its head was
hemispherical ; pale above ; concave be-
neath, with loose gills. (Probably Agaricus
n. 499. i'7. Lapp. ecL 2. 373. Fl. Sitec.
n. 1217. (^d. 2. 446.)

The scythes used in this country nearly
resemble those of the Norwegians, but dif-
fer in this respect, that the upper projec-
tion from the handle stands out horizontally,
see figure e, b, while the lower, c, is per-
pendicular, and the top, a, which rests
against the arm, is flattened. The mower
is therefore obliged to take hold of the
foremost projection, with his left hand,

EAST BOTIILaND.

U9

l60 EAST BOTIILAND.

under the main handle. The advantage of
this is, that he is a])le to move forward in a
nearly upright posture. The Norwegian
however walks still more erect in mowing.
The proportions of this Kimi scythe are as
follows : From a to b one foot and a half;
b to c two palms and a half; c to d two
feet ; the breadth at b two inches in a right
line. The length of the projection b is
three inches ; and of c the same. The blade
is like our Smoland ones, but stands at an
acute ano;le with the handle.

The harrow consists of four or five links,
in each of which are twelve joints. These
have alternately one and two projecting
pieces each. (See the figure annexed to
the scythe just described, j). 159)

In the stage-houses (see p. 156',) boilers
are fixed in the walls, for boiling horse-
dung, which is given as food to the cattle ;
as w ell as to heat w^ater for pouring on rein-
deer moss [Lichen rangiferinus), which is
also used for the same purpose ; but such
diet gives a loathsome taste to their milk.

J

EAST BOTHLAND. l6l

In the roof of these houses hams and sal-
mon are smoke-dried.

During the winter the people are obliged
to work in their miserable cabins or Fyr-
ter, when they open their shutters ; but
nevertheless find themselves sufficiently
warm.

The annexed cut represents a sort of
plough, used at Kimi.

a, the base, is three palms long and one
broad.

b, b, handles, each a palm in length.

c, d, shafts, six feet long, and of a round
figure.

e, e, chains by which the shafts are attach-
ed to the collar or yoke. The distance
betwixt e and e is three feet.

f, f, a straight or flat cross bandage.

g, m, the base of the plough-share, three
feet in length, and two palms and a half
broad.

h, h, points of the share, five palms long ;
distant at their base one foot three inches,
at their extremities two feet.

VOL. II. M

162

EAST BOTIILAND. 103

i, i, a chain of long links, fastened to a ring
that embraces the base of each point of
the share,' into which chain, at k, is in-
troduced the handle 1 ; this acts so as to
bring the points together rather than to
separate them.

It must be observed that the inner edge
of these points is turned downward, so
that" when the handle or spatula 1 is put in
at k, and is laid upon one of them, the
earth is thrown on one side, and this is
done alternately with the two points. The
part m is slightly curved, as well as the
points proceeding from it. When it is in-
tended to make a deep trench, as in cut-
ting through turf in the marshes, 1 is laid
parallel to m, while the rings at f, f, as well
as at i, i, prevent the plough-share from
going too far downward.

No kind of plough is used at Tornea, all
the ofround beins: turned over M'ith the
spade. The same is the case at Kimi, ex-
cept in the fields where rye is sown, and

M 2

l64 EAST BOTH LAND.

these are ploughed with the plough just
described.

It is a common custom at Kimi to fur-
nish out a table with five or six plates, and
as many spoons, napkins, &c., though only
one or two persons are expected to dinner.
There is at the post-house a free table (or
ordinary).

In the land belonging to the clergyman
of Kimi, I found the [Ly thrum) Salicaria
with a very unusual aspect, having alter-
nate leaves, and a solitary flower in the
bosom of each. (The original specimens in
the Linnaean herbarium have two or more
flowers to the upper leaves.)

My intention was to have extended my
journey into the province of East Bothnia;
but on applying at the post-house, I could
neither procure a horse, nor any thing to
eat, for the inhabitants either could not, or
would not, understand me. I therefore
took leave of them the same day I arrived,
and turned my steps backward.

EAST BOTHLAND. l65

The Finlanders in East Bothland are
dressed very much hke the Laplanders,
and therefore agree with them in 2;eneral
appearance. Their dress is the same with
respect to their cap, their light-grey jacket,
their breeches reaching down to the feet,
their half-boots, their belt into which they
stick their knife, and the use of hooks and
eyes upon their clothes instead of buttons.
But they differ in not having a high collar,
and in wearing a shirt and neckcloth, as
well as in having their coat open before.
They stick nothing into their girdle but a
knife, though some people carry a key at
the end of it. Their breeches are tied
round the knees.

At church I observed some men with a
girdle of black list, just as it was rent from
the cloth, wound two or three times round
the waist, which formed a contrast with
their grey jackets. The women however
dress in articles purchased from other coun-
tries, and make quite a different appcar-
^ance from the Lapland females.

166

TORNEA.

East Bothnia, being a low country,
abounds in marslies, bogs, and fens. The
grass is tall ; but still there is such a defi-
ciency of hay, that they buy up horse-dung
at Tornea, and boil it, as I have said, in
the boilers built up in some of their houses ;
in which also they boil water to pour over
the reindeer moss.

The bread used by the inhabitants of
this country in the present season of scar-
city was made principally of chaff cut fine
and ground.

The winter rye, sown but this day se'n-
night, had already sprung up, and made
the fields quite green.

I returned back to Tornea in the evening.

August 13.
This being a fast day, I heard a sermon
in the Finnish tongue, preached at the
church of Tornea. A lawful wife was
churched, after her lying-in ; which cere-
mony was performed in the choir, near the
elevated part. The women in general had
either naturally white hair, or hair that

TORNEA. 167

liad once been brown, now turned grey.
Very few had it red. They wear their liair
rather straight.

The physiognomy of both men and wo-
men is phlegmatic and stupid ; the body
clumsy, the complexion bad, and the fea-
tures- destitute of all delicacy of form or
expression.

The boundary between West Bothnia
and East Bothnia is not formed by the
river of Kimi, but by another smaller
stream, not far distant, on the left.

They catch Sijk {Salmo Lavaretus) in a
curious manner at this place. These fish,
like the common salmon, swim ao-ainst the
stream, and for that reason are to be caught
only near large falls of the river, which
they are unable to ascend. The fisherman,
beins: furnished with a net fixed at the end
of a long pole, strips himself naked up to
the waist, and walks into the middle of the
strongest cascade. To prevent accidents
from the force of the water, a rope is often
tied round his waist, the other end of

108 TORNEA.

which is held fast by a friend on shore.
Thus they catch the fish below the fall.

Seals are taken hy various means, being
either shot with fire-arms, or caught in a
net. The latter, three or four fathoms
high, is made of hempen cord, as thick as
a goose- quill, each mesh being two spans
wide. This net is kept upright in the wa-
ter by means of oblong floats of w-ood, and
has no stones at the bottom. Four or five
such nets are frequently tied to the ends of
each other, and a large stone is attached
to the last, bound about with willow or
osier, which serves to keep the nets steady.
These are set m places where the seals are
known to hide themselves, for those ani-
mals do the fishermen great damage, not
only by devouring fish, but by tearing the
fishing nets, from the destruction of which
the haunts of the seals are discovered.
When a seal comes in the way of the above-
described nets, he either thrusts his head
between the meshes, getting more and
more entangled the more he pushes for-

TORNEA. 169

ward, or, as often happens, he is caught
by the foot.

On a sand-hill near the church at Tor-
nea, grew, in great abundance, Gramen
spied triticea marilimiim, (Triticitm radice
repentc, foliis rigidis ; FL Lapp. 7i. 34,
which, in the second ediiion of that work,
p. 23, I have, by the persuasion of my in-
telligent friend Dr. Afzelius, referred to
Eli/miis arenarius, and what Linneeus here
says, confirms this determination.) Its blue
leaves looked quite different from all others,
and very handsome. I picked some seeds
from the spikes, which Mere as large as
grains of rye. Hence I was induced to
consider whether this plant might not serve
as a kind of corn, to be cultivated on such
dry and blowing sands, provided the pro-
per method of managing it could be dis-
covered, which surely would not be a very
difficult task. The advantage of this would
be that, by such means, many sandy tracts,
where nothing else will grow, might be
turned to advantage ; and the perennial

170 TORNEA.

roots, which no other corn has, would of
course save the trouble of sowing it an-
nually. Perhaps even these roots them-
selves might, in hard times, serve for food.

The tall Finländer Daniel Cajanus, at
Stockholm, born in this part of East Both-
land, was the son of a clergyman. At his
birth he was no bigger than the generality
of children, and his health was very inchf-
ferent, particularly with regard to his chest,
till the age of twelve or fifteen years.

I was informed that the inhabitants of
this neighbourhood often hear thunder in
the alps during winter.

In the alps of Tornea cold is brought by
a south wind, and mild weather comes
from the north, because of the sea.

The Laplanders consult several natural
objects by way of compass as they travel.

1. Large Pine-trees, which bear more
copious branches on their southern side
than towards the north.

2. Ant-hills, the south sides of which
bear grass, the northern whortle-berries.

TORNEA. 171

3. Aspen trees, whose bark is rough on
the north side, smooth on the opposite
part,

4. Old withered Pines are clothed, on
the north side, with the black Usuea, or
filamentous Lichen (L.jubatus).

By such marks as these they are able to
find their way through pathless forests.
Have we any guides so certain ?

When these people kill any wild rein-
deer with fire-arms in summer, they lodge
the carcase in a cold cellar, and cut it up
as they want it for provision.

I observed a curious kind of lime-stone
burnt at Kimi, Tornea, and other places
round the neighbouring sea-coast.

August 14.

A very rainy day. A silver ore from Hjor-
tot has been assayed by the Mineral Board,
and found to contain forty per cent, lead,
but only three or four of silver.

172 TORNEA.

August 15.
Near the ferry at Tornea I picked up
the Fresh-water Sponge, Spoiigia lacustris
of Newton, (S. lacustris; Si/st. Nat, v. 1.
1299' Linnaeus here refers to Mr. New-
ton, the friend of Ray, \vho found the
Sponge in question in the Norwich river,
where it still exists. It is however deno-
minated in Ray's Si/nopsis, S. ramosa flu-
viatilis, not lacustris. Linnaeus quoted
from memory.)

August 16.

In dissecting the flower of Artemisia
(vulgaris), I was struck with its very curi-
ous conformation. (This alludes to the
want of a limb to the corolla of the female
or marginal florets. See FL Lapp, ed. 2.

244.)

August 17.

I went by sea from Tornea to Calix. The
wind proved contrary. The islands abounded
with Whortle-berries, and with the fruit of

TORN^EA. 173

Riibus saxatilis. On one called Korsholm
I met with a sort of Behen. Can it be the
same with that which grows in cornfields?
Their diflfereKt parts are tolerably alike.
This grew among the pebbles of the beach.
Its calyx is oblong. Leaves narrow. Stem
erect. Fruit of one cell. In other respects
it resembles Behen. (This was Cucubalus
[Behen) variety the third, or y^ Fl. Lapp,
n. 180. ed. 2. 149- Silene maritima^ FL
Brit. 468. Engl. Bot. t. 957. We have
found it remain for many years unchanged
in a garden, propagating itself by seed,
though Linnaeus reports that the third year
he could not disimguish his from our com-
mon Silene injiata, his Cucubalus Behen.)

CECONOMICAL REMARKS

CONCERNING

THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF TORNEA.

The soil is various, sometimes clay,
sometimes sand. The corn-fields are sown
every other year, and lie fallow the inter-
mediate seasons, half of each field lying

174 TORNEA.

fallow, while the other half is cultivated.
The former is ploughed during the whole
summer, to prevent the growth of grass or
Meeds, which might exhaust it. Barley is
sown in these open fields only. Rye is cul-
tivated on land that has recently been
cleared of its wood by burning, but not in
any great quantities. Turnips and Rye are
sown together in one crop, and not, as
usual in other places. Turnips one year
and Rye the other. Rye bread is reserved
to treat visitors. Barley bread is of three
different qualities; 1. made of the un-
mixed barley ; 2. of a mixture of barley
and chaff; 3. of chatf without any ad-
dition, except now and then a handfull or
two of barley. This last is their Spis-bi'od,
or household-bread.

The plough is of the same construction
as that used in Westbothland.

Almost every person, except such as are
very poor, catches as many of the small
kind of Herrings, called Strmmmiugifilupea
Hareiigus /3, Mtmbras of old authors,) as

TORNEA. 175

are necessary for the support of his family.
Those who are not otherwise employed in
spring and autumn, catch them for sale
afterwards to such as have not time to take
any for themselves. These fish begin to
spawn about the ]8th of May, and con-
Imue till about the l6th of June. After
the latter period they go into the small in-
lets among the rocks, and are taken by
means of large nets till St. Peter's day,
June 29th. This is called the large Stroem-
ming fishery. From St. Peter's day till St.
Bartholomew's (Aug. 24th), or even later,
they are taken likewise with nets in their
usual haunts. These fish are found with
milt as well as roe throughout the summer.
One barrel of sour Stroemming is as va-
luable as two of the salted sort, the former
being greatly preferred. A peasant whose
family consists of a dozen people, takes
half a barrel of salt Stroemming for his
whole supply, and this is used to make a
kind of soup when boiled with turnips ; but
he takes a barrel and three quarters of sour

176 TORNEA.

Str(Emming', uhicli is eaten without any
preparation, like smoked and salted meat.
If the director of the family is a good (Eco-
nomist, he will never allow it to be boiled
or roasted. They let the fish which is to
make sour Stroemming lie for three or four
hours only before they take out the entrails,
after which it is washed in a small coarse
sieve, till most of the blood is removed.
It is then salted, in the proportion of
thirty pounds of ordinary salt to each bar-
rel of fish. The fish destined to make salt
Stroemming must be much more carefully
washed, for if the least drop of blood re-
mains it will turn sour. Every barrel of
this requires a quarter of a barrel of salt
which is disposed in layers, alternately
with layers of fish. Each layer of fish and
salt are rubbed together with the hands,
till a sort of scum rises on the top.

Another way of preparing salt Stroem-
ming is to make so strong a brine that the
entire fish, thrown into the tub, will not
sink. They put in only so many of the

TORNEA. 177

fish as can readily be stirred about in the
brine. If the tub be so full that the brine
does not entirely cover the Stioemming,
more is added, and the whole is suffered to
remain for some days. The fish is after-
wards gutted in the following manner. A
person puts ten or twelve of them on the
thumb of his left hand, in such a manner
that the back of each fish is turned to-
wards the palm. He then very dexte-
rously loosens the gills with his right hand,
pinching out the gills and intestines at
once; which is performed with great quick-
ness. The fish are then put into a rope
basket, and salted as before. When they
have remained thus for a couple of days,
they are put into other baskets, in order
that the brine may drain away, and finally
are packed up in new kegs for keeping,
without any further salting. A hole is
bored in each tub, just above the lower-
most hoop, to draw off the brine, which is
always collecting from the fish, and if per-
mitted to remain, will cause the whole to

VOL. II. N

178 TORNEA.

turn sour; but the same method is not
practised for the sour Stroemming. This
last is in its greatest perfection about St.
James's day (July 2oth).

These people have three meals a day in
summer, besides breakfast, and the sour
Strcemming always makes a part of their
dinner, as well as of the preceding refresh-
ment. The fish, after being repeatedly
squeezed, is laid between two slices of
bread, and so eaten. After it they take
some sour preparation of milk, without
cream. Sometimes indeed they eat a bit
of cheese, or bread and butter ; but they
never eat meat after the sour Strcemming.
Their vegetable food consists of cabbage,
pease, or turnips, the first being generally
eaten on Sundays. Pease are eaten once
a week, except when the cabbage is defi-
cient, and then they supply its place.
Turnips and salt Stroemming are generally
eaten in a morning, in the following man-
ner. When the turnips are boiled nearly
enough, the fish is put to them, but not

TORNEA, 179

before, lest it should be broken to pieces.
To this some flour is added ; and they
drink sour milk after it. Their supper
always consists of flummery, made of bar-
ley-meal. Before they first go out in a
morning they eat either bread and butter,
or bread and cheese, but they prefer the
former. The mixed bread (made of corn
and chaff) is their ordinary portion ; good
bread, made entirely of corn, they seldom
or ever taste. It is reserved for visitors, or
for very extraordinary occasions. Their
mixed or household bread, being baked in
cakes as thin as paper, is eaten by laying
four or five such cakes together upon each
other. They are never unprovided with ale
in their cellars, to treat visitors, though their
ordinary drink is table beer. In summer
time they always drink Si/ra, (see vol. i.
p. 243.)

The peasants themselves eat but very

little of their own mutton, and chiefly the

shoulder and brisket. The rest they sell ;

scarcely any is kept in the house but the

N 2

180 TORNEA.

above parts, with the marrow-bones, which
they break to get at the marrow. The
heads and feet of ,shecp, goats, and hogs,
are salted and dried, being, when wanted,
boiled with pease, and not ill-tasted. The
legs of sheep, cut off at the knee, are often
boiled fresh; the fat which floats on the top
beino- collected and preserved in a horn or
pot, as very useful to grease small ropes,
and wheels. The legs and feet thus boiled
are afterwards thrown away, not eaten.
The head and feet of a calf are usually
pickled.

For fire-wood these people use birch-
wood. They burn no candles in their
houses. They go to smoke themselves
with the Finlanders in their huts.

The hay is mown here in the same man-
ner as in Upland, and the corn is managed
in the same way as in Smoland. When th*
season is dry, they prefer drying the corn
in heaps in the open air, as before descri-
bed ; but in wet weather they have re-
course to .sheds. The hay is spread out

i

TORNEA. 181

till dry, and afterwards carried, without
being made into cocks.

They raise as many hops as are wanted
for each family, and have perhaps a few
pounds over, for sale.

Their pales are high, made of pine-wood,
and placed sloping.

The milk is set in the cellar, in deep tubs
made of alder wood, by which they obtain
a great proportion of cream, even two fin-
gers' thick. This cream is stirred up with
the milk, warmed, and then coagulated, for
making cheese. Another mode is with but-
ter-milk, to V, hich they add a sixth part of
fresh milk, that has stood one day and
been skimmed. This mixture, being first
warmed, is then coagulated. The cheese
thus made is preferred to the former, and
often eaten in preference to butter.

Between Midsummer and St. James's day
(July !25th), the whey is collected, after the
cheese is made ; which, after boiling for
some hours, is set by to cool. When cold,
jt is barrelled up for winter use. Poor

182 TORNEA.

people and old women beg or buy it, a
small bottle-full at a time. To one pot of
sour milk they add a fourth part of Syra ;
and these together have the taste of what
they term Filbunke, which is sour milk
with the cream on, just beginning to fer-
ment, and of which they make Servet-
mjolk; (see p. 150.)

Thick milk (perhaps Mesosmör, see vol. i.
p. 243,) is often kept in barrels till winter,
as is the meal made of fir-bark, when both
serve for winter provision.

Si/ra is so very sour as not to be eatable
by itself. When they have no milk to di-
lute it with, they add an equal quantity of
water to the Si/ra, and mix the whole with
flummery, which mixture they prefer to
small beer.

Butter is now and then made of goat's
milk ; but it is very strong, and quite as
white as that made of the milk of the
rein-deer.

TORNEA. 183

Auo-ust 18.

On islands near the shore I saw a Sulix
with leaves like the cultivated olive. It is
a shrub three feet high, but growing in a
spreading manner. Stemgrejjwith roundish
dusky solitary buds, of a very large size, in
proportion to the plant. Leaves gradually
larger (upwards?), oblong-lanceolate, blunt-
ish, on scarcely perceptible footstalks, fur-
nished with an obtuse lonaitudinal rib be-
neath, but no veins. Their upper surface
is green, sprinkled all over with minute
white dots ; very sliglitly channelled, and
paler, along the nerve. (This appears to
have been S. rosmarinifolia.)

August 19.

At the fair of Calix I obtained some in-
formation concerning the conrimerce of this
country, which is very different from that
of almost every place in the world besides,
insomuch that I am unable to determine
which party makes his market of the other.

184 TORNEA.

The townsman thinks it is himself who
cheats the peasant, but I verily beheve he
is the party who is cheated,

1. The general plan of traffic here is
bartering one article for another.

2. The merchant generally carries his
goods home to the peasant's residence in
the country, at whatever distance it may
be, or else conveys them to the fair, from
whence the purchaser is to fetch them.

3. When a townsman sets up trade as a
merchant, his principal aim is to get as
many country-people to connect themselves
with him as possible, who are to supply him
with their produce. These are termed
Gieid-honder, or creditors.

4. The advantage the peasants have in
thus confiding to the merchant the whole
of their goods, is, that the latter pays their
taxes for them to the collector, which must
be done either in ready money, or bills of
exchange.

5. When the merchant receives the goods
from the countryman, no price is fixed upon

TORNEA. 185

them between the parties; but when the
former returns from Stockholm, he sets
down in his accompt-book nearly the sum
for which he has disposed of the articles
there. In this the peasant trusts to the
honour of the merchant, and is paid ac-
cordingly.

6. These prices are not communicated
to the countryman immediately, nor does
he know the price of the salt, tobacco,
corn, and other articles, with which the
merchant supplies him in return, till they
settle accompts ; which does not take place
till the end of every year, or perhaps not sq
frequently.

7. As long as a peasant keeps to one
merchant, he is allowed credit, and obtains
advances of any money for which he may
have occasion, even although the goods de-
livered do not amount to the interest of the
sum lent, which is sometimes equal to 1000
dollars. But if he carries any of his goods
to another merchant, he must immediately
pay what he owes to his original correspou-

186 TOR NE A.

dent, or sulTer a sequestration of his pro-
perty.

8. The countryman never brings his
own goods to market, unless he happens
to be going that way, in which case he
usually tiikes them with him, but otherwise
it is expected the merchant should fetch
them.

9. When the towns of this part of the
country were first built, each had ccrtam
parishes appropriated to it, and these were
called the trading district of each town, m
which no person who did not belong to the
town had a right to trade. These exclu-
siv^e privileges were subsequently annulled
by royal authority, and free markets were
established, where strangers as well as the
neighbouring inhabitants were equally per-
mitted to trade. This open trade has not
however taken place at Calix, partly be-
cause the peasants are situated at so great
a distance from one another, and partly
because the merchants in the town con-
ceive that such a plan would ruin them.

TORNEA. 187

they being in that case obhged to buy and
sell for ready money.

10. Here are no free markets, properly
speaking, but only Uphordsmoten (periodi-
cal meetings of the collectors of the reve-
nues with the peasants). At these times
the townsmen and the peasants meet toge-
ther at the place of rendezvous, as at Calix
every year on the 19th of August, and at
Tornea in the depth of winter.

The inconveniences of the above plan of
trade are,

1. The merchant lays considerable sums
fast, with which he might otherwise extend
his commerce.

2. He has the trouble of carrying his
goods to the house of the peasant, where-
ever it may be, up the country, and of
bringing what he takes in exchange from
the place of rendezvous to his own house in
town.

3. The consequence of such a plan is,
that many a merchant has outstanding
debts tp the amount of 100,000 dollars,

188 TORN£A.

the greater part of which he may nevef
get paid.

The inconveniences to the countrj^man
are,

1. He runs in debt more than he can
ever pay.

2. The merchant has the advantage of
fixing what price he chooses on his goods.

3. He is not allowed to take any mea-
sures for his own profit.

The collar of the shirts, worn by the in-
habitants of Finland and East Bothland
in this neighbourhood, resembles ours,
their sleeves being more like those of a
woman's shift.

Young women here commonly wear the
bosom open, and have nothing over their
shift, which is gathered round the waist
Uke a petticoat.

The country of East Bothland is chiefly
inhabited about the sea-coast, and on the
banks of rivers.

An Aurora borealis was seen in the night

TORNEA. 189

of the 18th of August, and had been visible
for a week past, so early does it begin here.

The rowers of the boat in which I pur-
sued mj progress had blisters on their hands
caused by pulling at the oars. Their spe-
cific was the ladle with which they had just
been stirring the pot where fish was boil-
ing. This they applied, hot as it was, to
the part affected, and the blisters disap-
peared.

What is here called Taim is a sort of
salmon, two spans in length at most, the
tail scarcely cloven, the mouth not hooked,
but otherwise like the common kind. (This
is probably the Salmo salar in a young
state ; and may perhaps be the Laximgc,
or Salmo minor, vulgari shnilis, Artedi
Spec. 50, not 80, mentioned in Fauna
Suecica, ed. 2. 122, though Linnaeus has
no allusion there to the Taim.)

Ås soon as the corn is carried from the
field, it is usual to thrash it slightly, that
whatever is loose may come away, and
not be lost in the barn, as also that the

190 TORNEA.

coarser part may be separated from the
finer.

The flail is about a yard long, and ra-
ther thick.

The roofs in this part of the country are
made of the bark of birch-trees, not co-
vered over with any turf, but held fast by
round poles, as thick as one^s arm, whose
upper extremities, alternately longer and
shorter, reach to the ridge, and being
bored through, are fastened to it, in such
a manner that their ends project about a
span each way beyond the ridge, crossing
each other. Being thicker at their lower
ends, they lie almost close together. With-
in this there is often a false roof, like a ciel-
ing, covered over with birch-bark and earth ;
but this is only when the house is wished
to be very warm.

At the residence of the Governor of the
Province at Calix, I saw three swans, which,
having been taken when young, were as
tame as domestic geese, to which these
birds are so much alike in every respect,

TORNEA. 191

that I can have no doubt of their belong-
ing to one genus. Their bill is flat, and
black at the extremity, as well as the mar-
gins, convex and somewhat angular in the
middle, so far at least that the swelling
part terminates in an angle. The middle
is fleshy, where the oblong nostrils are si-
tuated; the base flat or quadrangular, with
two sinuses pointing upwards, and pale-co-
loured. The margin is toothed just hke the
Concha Veneris {Ci/praa)*

A carnage called Stötting is used here,
for bringing home wood for fuel in winter,
over the ice and snow. It is made of birch-
wood, and resembles a sledge.

The leno;th of this machine from a to b
is three feet and a half, the breadth of each
beam four inches and a half; their thick-
ness two inches, except in the middle, at d,
where it is three inches and a half, though
in all the other parts of equal dimensions.
The transverse bar, c, is one foot and a half
long, three inches and a half broad, and is
elevated four inches above the longitudinal

192

torneA.

pieces, e, e, are two slender triangular
pieces, two feet in length, and two inches
in thickness, f, f, are about one palm and
a half each in length and breadth, h is
curved upwards about two palms and a
half out of the straight line, g is two feet
Ions: between the main beams, three inches
and a half broad, but scarcely one in
thickness.

h

tORNEA. 193

The sledges, or beams, a, b, differ from
the common ones in being broader, and in
the elevation or thickness of each at d.
The transverse beam c, on which the load
is laid, is bored through at each end, to re-
ceive the supporting pieces. The slender
bars e, e, which may be termed clavicles,
are broadest in the fore part, where they
also are bored through, and fastened with
pegs, serving to give stability to the cross
beam c. Two of these carriages are tied
together, one behind the other, through the
hole in the cross beam, at k. The loop, i,
is made of birchen twigs.

At Calix I found the Hippuris (vulga-
ris) with forked branches ; Pentaphylloides
facie fragarics, (Fotentilla rupestris ?) ;
and Erucafoliis sinapeos, (What this was
does not appear.)

I noticed lime-stone in the cliff at Cahx
and Tornea.

VOL. ir. o

194

TOTINBA.

TORNEA. 195

The scythe which serves at Cronby in
East Bothhind, for mowing barley, is made
exactly like the common one of the Fin-
landers, with the foremost handle under-
jieath, but, that nothing may be wasted or
lost, the machine b c is fixed to the scythe,
b being stuck into the hole at a, and fast-
ened with a pin through it at the other
side. A cord is tied from the other end c
to the handle d, before the scythe is used.
The lower, or shortest, bar of this appen-
dage scarcely extends beyond the extre-
mity of the scythe at f. Its position is
regulated by a cord, according to the in-
clination of the blade f g.

The leno^th of the main handle of the
scythe, e f, is two ells.

August 31.
I collected and described various species
of Fungi.

(Here follow descriptions or characters
of several species of Agaricus, Boletus and
o 2

19Ö TORNEA.

Hydmim^ given more correctly in the Flora
Lapponica.)

September 3.

I stood sponsor to the son of the Burgo-
master Geyer Svanberg, who was born the
preceding night, or rather between one and
two in the morning. He was named Geyer.

Mr. Svanberg told me the [Cotyledon)
Umbilicus Veneris grew on a hill called
Karvick, near Wallivari to the north.
(This probably was not confirmed, as the
plant does not occur in Flo. Siiecica.)

September 4.

I went to Biorknas, in order to be in-
structed in the art of assaying.

September 9-

I examined the fish called in West Both-
land Natti?ig^ (Petromyzonjiuviatilis.) Its
upper jaw is acutely notched, resembling
two teeth. The lower has seven small

r

TORNEA. 197

teeth, of which the two outermost are
largest. Mouth in the under side of the
head, gaping, oval, rather compressed.
There are seven openings in a row behind
the eyes, gradually larger as they recede
from thence. The fins have no visible
rays, but merely streaks, yet they are not
adipose, or fat, fins. There is a prominent
orifice on the top of the head. The peri'
cardium is cartilaginous. The fish is a span
long. Its hind fin triangular.

These (lampreys) are caught at this time
of the year, when the nights grow dark, in
hollow timbers of a conical shape, resem-
bling the wicker baskets used for catching
eels. The entrance is made smooth and
even. These timbers are laid, at the depth
of two ells, in the river, and kept down with
stones, the opening being turned to meet
the current.

Some such traps are made of willow-
twigs not bigger than goose-quiUs, platted
close together into the same shape, and are
two ells in length.

198 TOR NK A.

I was told that the Laplanders are ac-
customed to preserve blood of the rein-
deer in rennet-bao-s throujrh the winter till
spring, Mhcn the}- boil it with water, and
drink it.

Tar is obtained in the following manner.
A cavity, of an inversely conical shape, is
dug in a hill, and then lined with hewn
timbers, nine ells in length each, so as to
form a sort of funnel. This again is hned
with bark of pine-trees, so as to prevent the
tar draining away into the ground between
the timbers. At the bottom is another
funnel or vessel of wood to receive the tar,
M hich runs from thence into a trough, close
on all sides, except a hole where the point
of the said funnel is inserted, and another
at the extremity, closed with a moveable
plug, from which the tar is received into
vessels and taken away. Roots of fir, cut
to pieces, are placed upright in the large
funnel above, so as to leave a convexity
over the bottom, and the whole beino- co-
vercd with turf is set on fire, against the

TOIINEA. 191)

^vind. Care is taken, by varying the ad-
mission of air, to prevent its burning too
fast, or unequally ; and by this means they
procure both tar and charcoal.

Scptcmhcr 14.

I took my leave of Biorknas. The wea-
ther was cold and rainy. Such of the fo-
rest trees as are of a deciduous nature had
now assumed a pallid hue, in consequence of
the cold nights ; but the e\ ergreens, with
their needle-shaped leaves, standing among
them, seemed to defy the cold, and were ren-
dered conspicuous by their dark-green co-
lour. The high wind scattered the withered
leaves over my path. How useful are the
usual storms of autumn to disperse ripe
seeds, and plant colonies far from the parent
trees ! The hills appeared sandy ; and such
places as had been burnt were now per-
fectly white with Reindeer Moss, [Lichen
rangiferinua^) which grew so close toge-
ther, as hardly to lea^e any room for the
Ling. It ornamented the sides of the roads

200 TORNE A.

like the Iceland Moss, {Lichen islan-
dicifs.)

Some part of the road consisted of a
reddish-brown earth, such as I had ob-
served in the early part of my journey
near Umoea. I was told that it was excel-
lent for red paint. At length I reached
Zingis, and in the evening arrived at Tor-
nea, entirely wet through,

Septemher 15.

I observed how they manage tiieir corn
at this season. They have no barns to lay
it into, but it is placed between poles, all
the ears directed to one side, in stacks two
or three ells long, and very high. If the
corn be not quite dry, it is first spread
abroad. Afterwards it is dried in a kiln,
and thrashed on a floor. How liable must
it be to take fire, and how much must un-
avoidably be spilt in consequence of such
management !

I received 100 dollars, of copper-money,
from the chief clergyman.

TORNEA. 201

I learned here that Tansy (Tanacetitm
'culgare) and Mugwort {Arteniisia vulga-
ris) are used to make a fomentation or
bath, wonderfully useful for women in la-
bour, who are accustomed to sit over the
steam of these herbs. I had observed the
people at every house drying Tansy, but
could meet with nobody who would inform
me to what use it was destined.

Septernher l6.

This day I again left Tornea for Kimi.
There are six ferries between these two
places, over the river Kokama, which passes
near Kimi. Two miles from hence are the
boundaries of East and West Bothnia.
Lime-stone attracted my notice all the way
along the road to Norbotn ; it was yellow
on the outside, Mhitish within.

September 17-
I departed from the posthouse of Kimi.
The weather was unfavourable, for it rained
all day long. I took up my lodging in the

C02 l-AST BOTH LAND.

evening at the posthouse of Jo. This part
of the country Ues very low, abounding Mith
marshes and numerous small rivulets, but
few liills. There is plenty of grass. The
buildings are bad. The forests consist
chiefly of Birch, intermixed with the acifo-
Z/c? (slender-leaved evergreens). Of these last
the Juniper ^^as remarkable for its abnn-
tlance and large size, so as to be almost ar-
borescent. The Birch and the dwarf Wil-
lows had now become pale, but the Sorbus
(Mountain ash, Fyrus aucuparia, Fl. Brit.)
had assumed a red hue, as well as all the
mosses. (Pedicular is) Sceptrum Caroli-
mnn appeared every where by the road-
side. Tlialicirum (jiavum) and Scutellaria
(galericulata) were less frequent, but Gol-
den-rod (Solidago J irga aurea), Trollius
(europciUf>), (Spircea) Uhnaria, and Epilo-
Hum {paluslre?) were plentiful, as was the
sweet MiUuin (eff'usu?}f), v.ith the Gramen
ramosuni (probably Aim cccspitosa.)

The inhabitants were in their smoky
huts, with their eyes full of smoke, and the

EAST BOTIILAND. 203

tears running from them. Nevertheless
they seemed more studious of warmth than
careful of their eyesight.

The same sort of plough is used here as
at Kimi.

I had frequent views of the sea through
the woods on the right hand. Wherever the
waves had thrown up sand-hills grew a pea
w4th a triangular stem, a white creeping-
perennial root, and thick leaves alternately
pinnate, (^Phum Diaritimum).

Near Jo I noticed a pit-fall designed to
catch evolves. This was dug in a hill, at
no great distance from the house. Around
it within were eleven pales or stakes, placed
upright and close together. In the centre
stood a pole, which, as well as the pales,
was on a level with the surface of the
ground. The pole supported awheel, over
which were laid boards, so as entirely to
cover it, in such a manner that if the wolf,
when caught, should be able to climb up
as high as the wheel, he might not get anj
further.

204 EAST BOTHLAND.

The prasants of this upper part of East
Bothnia, children of darkness in their houses,
are no less so in their slovenly appearance,
chiefly owing to their uncombed hair. Their
breeches reach as low as the feet, and are
white, and they wear a sort of short cloak,
sewed together in front. — Their disposition
is quarrelsome. Their habitations are in-
fected with a smell of sour fish, like sour
Stroemming, for they are kept very dirty.
These people speak no other language than
the Finlandish.

Here and there by the road I had this
day travelled, I noticed the Sea Wheat-
grass, {Elymus arenarivs. See FL Lapp,
ed. 2. n. 34.)

September 18.

I travelled from Jo to Ulaborg. The
rye was bound into sheaves, ten of which
were piled up together in a heap, the ears
at the top of each being brought close
together, and another sheath being placed,
in an inverted position, upon them, the

EAST BOTHLAND.

205

whole was sheltered from wet. The bar-
ley was not set upright, but laid on one
side, in such a manner that the ears were
all turned inward, and the straw stood out-
ward all round. On the top of each little
stack thus formed, a reversed sheath was
put, as a kind of covering.

|»»M I»,,

The villages consisted of the same kind
of smoky huts I have already described.

206

EAST BOTHLAND.

(The annexed cut seems to be a repre-
sentation of one of these dwelluigs, at which
Linnaeus was so indignant.)

Near the ferry of Haukipudas, stones are
collected from the sliore, which, though
nothing but concretions of sand and small
pebbles, are so firm as to serve for the con-
struction of ovens. At one spot, where the
river had excavated the sandy bank, it was
evident that the cement, which combines
these particles together, is no other than a
rust of iron. The stones in general here-
abouts are very fine-grained, and break
easily. They ha\'e all the appearance of
x:ontaining a portion of iron. Some were
more rugged and rusty than the rest.

EAST BOTIILAND. 207

A kind of boats used here to navigate
rapid and dangerous parts of the rivers,
are made of thin planks of spruce fir, and
are four or five fathoms long, and about
one broad in their middle. The sides are
five or six quarters of an ell deep ; the ex-
tremities compressed. The middle of the
boat is nearly semicylindrical, the keel
being raised up, or hollowed as it were by
the dilatation of the sides, in which all the
importance and peculiarity of the contri-
vance consists, for without this the vessel
would be much more easily overset in ra-
pid and shelvy places. Some of these boats
have no prominent keel at all ; others are
furnished with a slight one, chiefly in their
forepart, which is a little the highest, in
order to bear the better any shocks from
striking against stones ; so that if this
part be able to pass, the rest of the vessel
may go in safety.

One sort of nets used for catching Sijk-
fish, (Salmo Lavaret us, or Gwiniad, before
mentioned) are five spans high, and of a

208

EAST DOTHLAND.

considerable length, the meshes very small.
There are loop-holes at the top, large
enough to admit two fingers, bordered with
birch bark, whose edges are sewn together.
(See 1, 2, 3, 4 in the figure.) The stones
(5, 6, 7) at the bottom are but small, co-
vered with birch bark. The nets are set
near the sandy shore.

Another kind of net, used for catching
the same fish, is placed in the strongest
part of a current or water-fall. It resembles
a receiving net, except being not so deep.
The length is three ells, breadth two, and
depth one. This is fixed very steadily, by
means of poles, in the middle of the very
strongest and most confined current, against
the stream, so that when the fish attempts
to pass upwards, by the narrow passages on

EAST BOTHLAND.

209

each side the net, he finds it impracticable,
and is thrown back by the force of the
water, generally into the net, out of which
he can never escape, but is taken out at
leisure.

NearUlaborg is a mineral spring, not yet
made any use of. The taste of the water
seemed good. This spring is situated close
to the town, on a small island, where there
is a sawing-mill.

In the church I noticed the monument
vof Messenius, with his effigy made to the

VOL. II. P

210 EAST BOTHLAND.

life. He is actually buried here*. This
church is one of the longest I ever saw
built of wood, but its height is not corre-
spondent. The arms of the town are dis-
played on the pulpit. Ulaborg is almost as
large as Lund.

* John Messenius, famous for his learning and his
misfortunes, was professor of law and politics at Up-
sal, in the reign of the great Gustavus Adolphus, who
had a high esteem for him, and who exerted all his
wisdom, and even his power, to allay the envy and
hatred of some of the colleagues of this able man, es-
pecially of John Rudbeck, a malignant though learned
theologian. The king in vain endeavoured to pacify
Rudbeck by preferment, while he removed Messenius
to Stockholm, and made him a member of the new
council established there. The latter was formally ac-
cused of being a secret partisan of the deposed catholic
king Sigismond, and was condemned to a perpetual
prison, where he composed a great work entitled Scan'
dia illustrala, published at Stockholm between the
years 1700 and 1714. Messenius died in 1636. His son
Arnold might be justified for detesting those who had
persecuted his illustrious father, but not for the folly
of expressing his feelings in satirical publications against
people in power. For this he paid with his life on the
scaffold in 1648, and his own son, aged about 17»
suffered with him.

EAST BOTHLAND.

211

September I9.
After attending divine service I left this
place. Sledges in use here are constructed
with a cross board to rest the feet against,
(a, seems to be a bandage or belt, to keep
the traveller from being suddenly jolted out
of this vehicle, and b is the part to rest the
back or head against ; but there are no re-
ferences in the manuscript to these letters
of the sketch.)

I now came in sight of the extensive
meadows of Limingo, more spacious than
all the meadow-ground of Tornea and Rod-
beck together. (Tuneld says in his Geo-
graphy, that the meadows of Limingo,
p 2t

^J12 EAST BOTHLAND.

and cornfields of the neighbouring parish
of Storkyrro, are famous to a proverb for
their great ex tent.) At first the land seemed
a perfect marsh, filled with Horsetail (Equi-
setumjiuviatile), and especially with Reed,
Arundo {P/wagmites), which last grew in
such abundance as to resemble a forest.
The W«ter Hemlock, Cicutaria aquatica
Ciciita virosa ; (see p. 136), was very plen-
tiful by the road-side. This led me to in-
quire whether the cattle ever fed there?
I was answered by the peasants in the affir-
mative, with a question in my turn, whe-
ther I could give them any advice on the
subject, for they had lost a great many ;
adding similar particulars to what I had
heard at Tornea.

Red Currants (Ribes ruhrum) grew all
the way by the road, as well as Lenticula
( Lanna or Duck- weed), and the Lichenoi-
(It's of which powder is made was obser-
vable on the trees. [LicJien primastrii said
lo have been used for hair-powder.)

Tlie meadow of Limingo is two miles

EAST BOTIILAND. 213

in length. The best part of the land, near
the village of that name, was now occupied
by the horned cattle. The land here is
more elevated and less marshy, though
somewhat impaired by tumps (of Carer
caspitosa). If but a third part of it were
cultivated, according to the Scanian mode
of husbandry, it M'ould be of more value
than the whole is at present. I was told
that the whole marsh might be laid dry,
by cutting a channel down to the sea-
shore ; but it was feared that the land
might in consequence become covered
with White Moss [Spliognum pali(stre),
which would render it altogether unpro-
fitable.

About a thousand hay-cocks were now
before me on the meadow, but none of
them consistino; of more than a horse could
draw. They never here use more than a
single horse or ox at a time for draught.
Each of these cocks was raised from the
ground on a kind of scaffold, supported by
several cross poles. Some of the Water

214 EAST BOTHLAND.

Iris (/;7"5 Pscud'acorus) was mixed with
the hay.

The milk-strainers are made of straw,
and not very clean.

September 20.

Brabestad, not far distant, is a small
town, though twice the size of Tornea,
standing on a peninsula by the sea.

In the hospital of Cronby are many ma-
niacs, whose insanity is said to have arisen
from jealousy of the conduct of their wives.
One of them, whose wife was a very old
woman, took this fancy, supposing her to
intrigue with several other men. Possibly
in these cases impotence, or perhaps some
fantastic concupiscence, may have been a
cause of the derangement.

About this neighbourhood it is the cus-
tom to administer to women in labour a
very nauseous medicme, which is called
Hittatran, or Casual Train-oil ; so termed
because it is obtained from the carcases of

EAST BOTHLAND. 215

such seals as, having been killed early in
the spring, have been left among the bro-
ken ice till they are by chance cast upon
the shore. They are consequently putrid,
and the oil is so offensive, that few persons,
except such as are in great extremity, or
not very nice, can be brought to take it.
In general Castor is here considered as a
sheet-anchor in such cases, as being found
by long experience very effectual in bring-
ing on the labour-pains. Others take saffron
infused in wine. For after-pains they swal-
low, as at Kimi, a few drops of blood
from the umbilical cord, not only in the
woman's first lying-in, but every subsequent
one.

Some Finlanders, as I w^as told, have a
method by which they pretend to catch
bears, with a sort of magic. This is done
by procuring some of the bear's dung, fresh
and warm if possible, and mixing it with
that of one of their own cows. The conse-
quence is said to be, that the bear will be
attracted by sympathy to come after the

216 EAST BOTHLAND.

COW ; a» effect certainly not more won-
derful than many sympathies upon re-
cord.

There is a fish in the lakes near Pyhe-
jorki which is called Miiicii. Bishop Ter-
serus, a Dalecarlian, bishop of Abo, says
that he has seen at this place a fish named
Muicit, which is no other than the Blikta,
taken in the lake of Silian in his native
country. How true this may be I know
not, but I saw plainly that this Miiicu is
the Small Sijk {Salmo Albiila), such as is
found in Smoland.

The following figure represents a plough
used here, drawn by an ox. The share, a,
is of iron, a span long. The part b is four
spans high ; c is four spans long ; d and e,
three spans each ; f, g, four spans. The
ends of the shafts are connected by a curved
piece of wood, which keeps them from
the shoulders of the animal, and supports
them.

EAST BOTHLAND.

217

218 EAST BOTHLAND.

September 21.

Being the feast of St. Matthew the apo-
stle, I went to church at Gambia Carleby.
Here is an introductory school, to prepare
children for that at Cronby.

I passed on to Jacobstadt, which has a
remarkably good harbour. Ships are able
to load and unload close to the quay.

September 22.

Leaving Jacobstadt, I arrived at the town
of New Carleby, M-hich is nearly as big as
Wexio. Every one of the streets is laid
with timbers, placed cross-wise, instead of
stones, like a bridge, which has a hand-
some appearance. The harbour of this
place is near the river, a quarter of a mile
from the town. Vessels when laden in-
deed can scarcely come within half a mile.
On the shore lay vast piles of wood, de-
stined to be conveyed to Stockholm for
fuel.

EAST BOTHLAND.

219

The country-people have, in every one of
their mills, an instrument made of six or
seven blades or hatchets, serving to cut
chaff into small pieces in a trough, in order
to grind it afterwards with their barley.

Rotk'dl (Brassica oleracea z, Sp. PL
d^^i Napo brassica, or Stalk-cabbage) is
dried for winter use ; when it is boiled, and
given with the liquor to the cattle.

The women at this place wear a hood, or
neckcloth, as they call it, of grey walmal
cloth, but only in bad weather. It is tied
with a black ribband in the fore part.
When they ride on horseback, they carry
the whip slung at their back.

220 EAST BOTIILAND.

To stir up the pot, M'hen boiling, they
use a stick with several projecting bits of
wood at the bottom, (not unlike a choco-
late-mill,) which is rolled between their
hands.

In the evening of this day I arrived at

Wasa.

September 23.

I went to church at Wasa, and visited
also the palace, situated on the south-west
side of the city, the school, and other
public buildings. This is a handsome little
town enouoh. It is the residence of the

o

governor.

Not far from the town, and indeed close
to the walls, is a reputed copper-mine, the
working of which was discontinued, after an
excavation had been made to the depth of
five or six fathoms. The ore has a glitter-
ing micaceous appearance, and gives a stain
like black lead. The sand about it is a
loose talc, as if spontaneously decomposed.
I do not indeed believe that it contains any
copper or other metal ; which .'seems to have

J

EAST BOTHLAND. 22 1

been the opinion of those who so soon gave
over the pursuit.

The rustics here trust to three doctors,
Beaver's-gall, Bear's-gall, and Palla vinus.
(By a chemical sign annexed, it appears
that Linneeus here meant brandy, but the
word itself is not explained.)

This day being Sunday, I saw the girls
all going bare-headed to church. They
each, however, carried an oblong-oval hat,
supported by broad coloured ribbands, the
€nds of which hung down.

September 24.

In my way from New Carleby to this
place (the day before yesterday) I had ob-
served a kind of plough in use, different
iVom any I had before seen. This was al-
most always drawn by a horse, seldom by
an ox. The latter, when used, had the
same harness as the horse, but without a
girth. Over its back indeed passes a band
like a saddle-girth, which is kept upon the
neck of the animal to prevent the harness

222

EAST BOTHLAND.

sFiding forward ; but for horses they use no
such thing. See the figure.

The shoes worn at this place in some mea^
sure resemble half-boots. The soles are of
untanned leather, with the hair upon it;
the upper leathers made of tanned seal-

EAST BOTHLAND. 223

skin, and tied round the ankle with strings.
(A representation of one of these shoes ac-
companies the last figure.)

Hypericum {perforatum), Scrophularia
{nodosa)^ Bidens (cernua?) occurred to me
here, for the first time in all my journey.
The three species of Jxibes {ruhrum, alpi-
num and nigrum,) were in prodigious
abundance.

September 25.

At sun-rise I took my departure from
Wasa. The pines in the forest were strip-
ped of their bark, so that vast tracts were
covered with nothing but such naked trees.
No more was left on each trunk, to the
height of three ells or three and a half,
than a small strip of bark, about the breadth
of four fingers, generally on the north side,

to prevent its being (here is a word not

to be decyphered). The trees are left stand-
ing for six or seven years afterwards, and
are then cut down close to the roots, being
also headed a little above the naked part.

224» EAST BOTHLAND.

The heads or branches either serve for
firing, or, as often happens, are left to rot
on the ground.

Three miles below Wasa I recognised
the Climbing Nightshade (Solamim Did-
camara). In the town itself I had noticed
{Leonurus) Cardiaca, and Henbane {Hy-
oscyamns niger). Near the shore grew
Salix olecefolia with its berries, (Hippophae
rliamnoides). It is known by the name
of FinnhcEv or Surbär^ (Finn-berries, or
Sour berries). The fruit is situated be-
low the leaves, as in the Alder. The
footstalks are two lines long. Berries
bluntly oval, of a tawny orange-colour,
three or four lines long, smooth, sour, hav-
ing a watery pulp mixed with ochraceous
matter. Seed solitary, roundish-oblong,
slightly compressed, obtuse, attached by
its lower edge to a membrane which en-
folds it. When this cover is removed, the
seed itself appears brown and polished,
having u longitudinal groove at each side.
The fishermen eat these berries bruised,

EAST BOTHLAND. 225

by way of sauce to their fresh fish, but I
thought them rather too acid.

September 26.

I passed Christina (Christinestadt), but
before coming to that place, noticed at
Nerpis a very extensive tract of land, which
had formerly been a fine meadow, the soil
being extremely good. But at present it
was so entirely overrun with tumps (origi-
nally perhaps formed of Carex ccBspitosa)
that it produced little or nothing. These
tumps were crowded almost over one an-
other, and were overgrown by Polytrichum
(Hair-moss), which had come to its full sta-
ture, and rendered most of them nearly
black. There was scarcely room for the
cattle to make their way to any food be-
tween the tumps.

In the passages of all the houses hung
nets, used for catching bears. These are
made of ropes of Lindenbast, (the inner
bark of the lime-tree, Tilia europaa,) full
as thick as a bridle or rein. The meshes

VOL. II. Q.

226 EAST BOTIILAND.

when stretched are each three quarters of
an ell wide. The height of the net is equal
to the stature of a man. Such nets, sup-
ported by poles, are set up in a hne of one
hundred fathoms in extent, the lower side
close to the ground. The bear is driven
into them by the people hunting him on all
sides.

September 27.

This day I observed a mode of brewing
in a kneading trough, which stood on a
table, and its end being made so as to
slide up and down, the wort is easily poured
out.

Below the town of Christina, I first found
the Lathi/nts viciafot'mis {L. palnsiris),
and Water Cresses, {Sisymbrium Nastur-
tium) ; also Campanula persicijglia and
(Sedum) Telephium.

September 28,

1 was glad when I had done m ith the
very bad road which extends from the

EAST BOTHLAND. 29?

Lappfierd near Christina, to Hwisbofiahl,
towards Biorreborg ; a highway it cannot
be called, for it is exactly like the road be-
tween the town of Umoea and Granoen*
(See V. 1. 141.)

Near Sastmola I first recognised the
Acer {platanoides) and Filiv fxmina ra-
mosa (Aspidium FilLv-fcemina ?)

The road from Hwisbofiahl to Giolbohl
lies along the coast. The grass here was
remarkably tall, and full of all sorts of
plants ; as the Kibes insipidum [alpinum)^
called by the inhabitants Deghaer\ in the
greatest abundance. (Vibunium) Opuliis
and (Lonicera) Xylosteum here first re-ap-
peared after my long absence.

N. B. The shrub which Mr. Hojer in-
forms us grows on this island, with blackish-
brown berries, may perhaps be the Xylos-
teum, as the colour of the leaves seemed to
agree very well. (Were it not for the above
indication of the colour of the berries, it
might, from the Flora Suecica, be suspect-
ed that Linnaeus had, in these two para-
q2

228 EAST BOTIILAND.

graphs, written by mistake Xylosteum for
Fericlymenum.)

The alpine Stone Bramble, Riibus saxa-
tilts, was extremely plentiful ; and the Cul-
tivated Hop (JIumulus Lupiilus), growing
wild, afforded me great pleasure, as I con-
templated its ingenious manner of curling
round the Aspen trees (Populus tremida).
Here also [Anemone) Hepatica, and the
Cracca with toothed wings (stipulce) and
striated flowers, (Vicia sylvatica,) as well
as the Orobus vemi/s, once more greeted
me. The grass with a dense spike-like pa-
nicle, whose stems serve for cleaning the
inside of tobacco-pipes, [Agrostis ariindi-
nacea,) grows copiously in this part of the
country ; and reached higher than my
head. The marshes abound with Iris
(Pseud-acorus) and with Cyperns (pro-
bably Scirpus maritimus).

The greater part of the road I had tra-
velled hitherto from Kimi lay so near the
shore, that, even in the woody parts of it,
the sea was frequently visible through the
forests.

EAST BOTIILAND. 22.Q

September' 29.

I travelled the whole of Michaelnias-day.

When a Fmlander has fired at a bear, he
immediately runs to one side, for the ani-
mal, if not killed, is sure to run directly
forward, towards the smoke ; by which
means the man escapes out of his reach.

The peasants who reside near the cliffs
or rising ground judge by the crows (Coi^-
vus Comix), of the approach of bad wea-
ther ; for these birds seek the marshy
country in the evening before it comes on.

Ulvila churchyard seemed to abound
with sculls. I reckoned forty of them in
one heap. This churchyard is built round,
after the old fashion.

On entering one of the stove-huts of the
inhabitants here, it was so hot, that I
thought my nose would have been burnt
off. Nevertheless, the people within seemed
comfortable enough, and the boys, clad
in skins, were running up and down the
couch. The stove is constructed like that

230 EAST BOTHLAND.

of a bagnio in Smoland, but upon it is
piled a great heap of flat stones, to the
height of a man. The old women sit in
these huts half naked.

Between Hyfoeda and Taftnen is a river
almost navigable. In some parts, as I was
told, it is nine fathoms deep, and- in one
place is a ferry across this river. Half a
mile from hence southward, close to the
road, between two small bridges which are
near each other, I noticed a sand-hill of
very fine sand, in differently- coloured strata,
some white, others reddish-purple.

In the evening I arrived at the town of
Abo, which is as large as Örebro, and well
built. It has often been ruined by the
enemy, and often burnt down by acciden-?
tal fires, which, if not occasioned otherwise,
might easily happen from the stoves of the
huts. I remarked that these stoves were
less loftv than some I had seen, and that
several stones lay loosely piled on one an-
other above the opening, which serve to
retain the heat.

EAST BOTH LAND. 231

September 30.

The Finnish liquor called Lura is pre-
pared like other beer, except not being
boiled, instead of which red-hot stones are
thrown into it. Hence its purgative qua-
lity from the iron.

Here I saw a flying squirrel (Sciuriis
volans) from Tavasthia.

The long black rat, with a white lower
lip, catches birds, both on trees and in the
water. He holds fast by his claws, and
bites with his four prominent teeth. Tlie
Finlanders call this animal Mink. (This
seems to be Viverra Littreola, Faun. Suec.
ed. 2. 5.)

A quarter of a mile from the city is a
mineral spring, of which Tillands has taken
notice. (See v, 1. 43, note.) It is older
than that of Medevi (near Vadste;na). The
current is so strong that one of the burghers
of the city has built a mill, to which the
water is led, but it does not always go.
Near the town a mine has lately been

232 EAST BOTHLAND.

opened, containing iron here and there,
with small quantities of pyrites. The
mountain itself is a black mica, immedi-
ately adjoining to the city.

The library here is miserable. There
are two colleges close together.

October 5.

I departed from Abo. The corn-fields
of Finland are beautiful, and resemble
those of East Gothland in their wide ex-
tent and level surface.

There are regular ferry-boats at stated
times to take passengers to the isle of
Aland.

October 6.

I arrived at the place, near Brandoen,
where I was to go on board the ferry-boat.
The shore is a red rock. Passed over to
the island of Aland, the whole of which con-
sists of the same kind of red rock. The
palace of Castelholm, at present falling fast
mto ruins, is built of this sort of stone.

ALAJ^D. 233

The women use for dyeing a sort of rock
Lichenoides, of a brown stercoraceous co-
lour, (perhaps Lichen sfi/giiis, or onipha-
lodes,) which they boil in water with alum.
But Walmal cloth, and stockings, are dyed
without alum. Some add a little Arnotto
(Bida 0 reläna).

Shoes like short half-boots are worn here
made of seal-skin.

October 7-
In the evening of this day I passed over
the plain of Aland. There were abundance
of Finn-berries (Hippophdé rhamnoidcs)
by the road.

October 8.
I sailed over the sea of Aland.

October 9-

Near Esbro an iron mine has lately been

opened. About the church are sundry

sepulchral monuments. I noticed on the

small surrounding hills, as well as at Mu-

234 UPS AL.

sangen, very fine and lofty plants of ju-
niper resembling cypresses, the branches
erect and close, assuming a conical or py-
ramidal figure.

October 10.

About one o'clock in the afternoon I ar-
rived safe at Upsal.

To the Maker and Preserver of all things
be praise, honour and glory for ever !

Some observations relative to the Seal,
Thoca vituUna.

There are two kinds (or varieties) of
this animal. The Gra Sial (Grey Seal) is
the largest, of a grey colour, lighter, and
slightly clouded on the back. The Wik-
are Sial (Creek Seal) is smaller, black on
the back, and very cloudy or wavy at the
sides. Otherwise there is no difference
between them.

The whelp at its birth is perfectly white,
being covered with white hair about an
inch lon^r, which it loses in four or five

OBSERVATIONS ON SEALS. 235

weeks, and becomes quite black. At the
same period it acquires more activity and
shyness than at first. The upper fore teeth
are six, very small, resembling those of a
dog. The eye-teeth slightly enlarged at
their outer edge, as in the dog, and fur-
nished with a little notch at their base.
Grinders six. Whiskers remarkably large.
There are two nipples a little below the
navel, which the female has a power of
drawing in, so as to leave holes large
enough to admit the finger. She lets them
out at pleasure to her young one.

The seal lies on its back while sleeping,
either on the ice or on rocks. They couple
soon after the feast of St. Matthew, Sep-
tember 21 ; and the grey seal brings forth
its young in January, the creek seal in Fe-
bruary. The male runs round and round
the female many times, with a yelping
noise, being very careful not to be ob-
served.

When the female has young, the male is
yery savage, and continually attends to

^36 OBSERVATIONS

protect her. She brings forth but one at
a birth, which at first is dull and stupid,
easily caught. If thrown into the water,
however, he exerts himself with some ac-
tivity, and returns to the shore, not having
as yet acquired any shyness. But by the
time all his first coat of white hair is fallen
off, he begins to be timid. The growth
of the young seals is very rapid.

The seal, when out of the water, can
hardly distinguish objects at half a quarter
of a mile's distance at the utmost. ]3ut
in foggy and dull weather he sees better
than in sunshine. He never remains in
the water during moon-light nights. His
hearing is acute though he has no external
ears, and his scent is also very quick. He
can remain under water for nearly half
a quarter of an hour ; but by that time
he must, at the peril of his life, come to
the surface to breathe, which he often does
within a fathom of the shore, and he after-
wards spouts out water.

Nets for catching seals are set right out

ON SEALS. 237

into the sea, from some promontory, to the
distance of twenty fathoms. These are
examined every morning, to see what is
caught. They are chiefly set from St. Bar-
tholomew (August 24), when the moon is
in her wane, till over St. Matthew's day,
September 21.

Grey seals are hunted in winter till
Lady-day. They lie upon the ice, often in
great numbers, close to a hole which they
have made in it. When they come out of
the water by this opening upon the surface
of the ice, the water they bring with them
freezes about its margin, so that in time
the edges become elevated, and it looks
like a well. If it should freeze over, they
travel to the south-west, till they can get
at water, always proceeding straight for-
ward, even though they meet with moun-
tains in their way ; and they return in the
same direct line back again. The hunters
go with large poles, carefully approaching
the creek seal till they get near enough to
fire at him before he is aware. The grey

238 OBSERVATIONS ON SEALS.

seal is taken with a sort of hook or har-»
poon.

The seals are able to penetrate through
the ice from beneath, lying on their backs
under water, be it ever so thick, but cannot
make their way into it from above.

END or Tli£ TOUR.

I

N<^ I.

A BRIEF NARRATIVE

OP

A JOURNEY TO LAPLAND,

Undertaken with a View to Natural History, in
the Year 1732, at the Expense of the Royal
Academy (of Upsal); by Charles Linn^us,
Student of Physic and of Natural History, as
drawn up by Himself to lay before the said
Academy.

J. HE Royal Academy of Sciences having,
last Spring, permitted my humble memo-
rial to be laid before them, respecting the
project of a journey to Lapland, with a
view to the improvement of natural history,
and havino; honoured the same with their
approbation, appointing me to undertake

240 APPENDIX.

the expedition, I feel it my duty, after
having accomplished my journey, most re-
spectfully to present to the Academy a nar-
rative thereof.

For the sake of brevity and clearness I
shall divide my subject into three parts.

1st, A journal of my tour.

2d, The expenses incurred.

3d, The advantages likely to accrue.

I. The Journal.

Mm/ 32, 1732.
Having received my instructions from
the Royal Academy of Sciences, with a
passport from the Government, and having
prepared every thing necessary for my jour-
ney, I set out immediately at eleven o^clock,
from this place (Upsal), carrying with me
nothing but what was absolutely necessary,
in order that I might not be detained or
interrupted, in case of not being able al-
ways to procure a horse, but might occa-
sionally pursue my way on foot. As the
summer seemed to be fast advancing, I

APPENDIX. 241

thought it not advisable to lose time by
the way, nor to stray far from the road, in
the early part of the tour, but only to ob-
serve attentively what readily presented it-
self, that I might reach Lapland with all
possible dispatch.

May 13.

By eleven o'clock I arrived at Gefle,
where I was obliged to stay all that day,
for it was evening before I received from
the governor of the province (of Gestrick-
land) the requisite passport, which was ac-
companied by orders to all the public offi-
cers in his district to give me all requisite
assistance to penetrate, if possible, into
Asila Lapmark.

May 14.

Owing to the above delay, and my at-
tending morning service the next day at
Gefle church, I could not quit that place
till one o'clock. Proceeding without stop-
ping to Hudwickswald, I there merely

R

242 APPENDIX.

spoke a few words to Mr. Broman the
clergyman, and pursued my way to Knor-
by Knylen, the highest mountain in Me-
delpad, from whence I went to Sundswall,
and further. In my way I exammed
a ca^e formed by nature in a very hard
rocky mountain, formerly a retreat for
thieves and highwaymen.

I was so unfortunate, in my journey
through Medelpad, as not to meet with
a sinirle horse that did not tumble with
me several times, in consequence of which
I was at one time so severely hurt as to
be scarcely able to remount. Having al-
ready collected together a number of stones
and minerals, which were no less burthen-
some than unnecessary to carry along with
me further, I rode to Hernosand, where I
left these incumbrances. I did not, how-
ever, stay there above two hours.

Mat/ 20.
At length I reached the famous moun-
tain of Skula in Ans-ermanland, at the verv

APPENDIX. 243

top of which is a large grotto, so neatly
formed by nature that art could scarcely
have excelled it. This grotto was repre-
sented to me as quite inaccessible, and it
was said that not more than two or three
persons had ever been there ; nor was it
without great difficulty that I prevailed on
two men to accompany me, every body
deeming the project impracticable. As we
climbed up towards it, we sometimes crept
forwards, sometimes slid back again. Now
we mounted a considerable way by catch-
ing hold of branches and roots of trees,
and then, meeting with steep inaccessible
jrocks, were obliged to turn back. After
following one of my guides for about two
hours, I thought the other seemed to make
more progress ; which induced me to go
.after the latter. J was scarcely got two ells
out of my former path, than the man whose
track I had left loosened a large stone with
his foot, which fell on the very spot I had
quitted, with such violence, that 1 was sur-
rounded by fire and smoke, and should
It 2

244 APPE^DIX.

certainly, but for the protecting hand of
Providence, have been crushed to pieces.
We reached the grotto at length, after
much hi hour and trouble, and descended
the mountain with much greater facility.
Laying hold of the tops of spruce firs which
grew close to the rocks, we slid down upon
them, dragging them after us down the
precipices.

Mai/ 23.

I at length, after twelve days journey,
reached Umoea.

It had originally been my design to go
to Asila Lapmark, in order to observe
what plants are able to endure the very
hard winters of that region, but I was ob-
liged to change my plan. The summer
would not have been long enough, nor my
stock of money sufficient to enable me to
reach that most northern part of the coun-
try, where the severity of the climate is
augmented by the cold north wind and
the vast .snowy mountains. I applied,

APPENDIX. 245

tlieretbre, to baron Grundell, governor of
Umoea, for a passport to the nearer parts
of Lapland, which was immediately grant-
ed. This oentleman showed the rj-reatest
readiness to befriend me, and appeared to
take much interest in the success of my
undertaking. He gave such orders as
might cause the public officers in Lapland
to lay no obstacles in my way, but rather
to assist me by every means in their power.
He himself gave me much curious infor-
mation, and showed me his own garden,
that I might observe what plants would
stand the winter here : concluding by ex-
pressing, in the most flattering terms, his
approbation of my appointment.

May 25.

The following morning I set out on my
way towards Lapmark. Leaving the high-
way, I came to one of the most unpleasant
roads I ever travelled. It was covered
with stones, betwixt which were thick en-

246 APPENDIX.

tangled roots of trees, and among them
were deep holes full of water. The whole
ground was a marsh, which the frost was
at this time just about quitting. Large
pine-trees, that had been blown down in
the course of the stormy winter, frequently
crossed my path ; and the more flexible
birches, w^eighed down by the snow, inter-
rupted my course on all sides. I frequently
came to such steep heathy places that my
horse could scarcely climb or descend them,
and in the bottoms between them were
marshy tracts, with rivulets destitute of
bridges, so that my beast slipped down se-
veral times ; and as I passed the streams,
the water reached up to my saddle. I then
regretted, what I had in the former part of
my journey so much detested, travelling
on the high-way on these stumbling horses,
and would rather have descended the steep-
est hill in Angermannia than have chosen
the present road, for at every step the
horse took, I thought he would have fallen.

APPENDIX. 247

In the evening of

Mai/ 28,

however, I arrived at Genom, the last
village in Westbothland, seven miles from
the great road which leads westward from
Umoea. Not having reposed since I left
the place last mentioned, I slept here all
night.

Maij 29.
The next morning I proceeded in a boat
up the river of Umoea as far as Lycksele
church, which is the first in Umoean Lap-
mark, and situated five miles distant from
Grano. This was Whitsun-eve.

Alcnj 30.

Beino; A¥hitsundav, I determined to

stav here. Indeed Mr. Gran the minister

of the place * (Pastor Gran in the original)

wished me to wait till the next Sabbath-

* In the Journal, vol. i. 101, Linnaeus speaks of
Mr. Ofadron as the curate of Lycksele, and his wife.

248 Appendix.

day, as he did not think it advisable for me
to proceed, so as to come suddenly among
the Laplanders, before he had made my
design known from the pulpit. He was
apprehensive that I might meet with the
same accident as his own wife bad done,
who coming unexpectedly upon these peo-
ple, had a fire-lock presented to her breast.
Notwithstanding this, the rise of the water
in the river, in consequence of the advan-
cing summer among the Alps, was so rapid,
that I was on that account induced to hasten
my departure, after having engaged one of
the colonists to accompany me by water tö
the nearest habitation of some one of th^
native Laplanders.

May 31.

The divine service of this day being
over, I left Lycksele, taking with me only
three loaves of bread, and some rein-deer
tongues, by way of provision. I presumed
that I should procure among the Laplanders
flesh of the rein-deer, cheese, milk, fish,

APPENDIX. 249

fowl, &c. Nor, indeed, could I well take
any thing more at present ; for. whenever
we came at any shoals or falls in the river,
it was necessary for my companion to take
our boat on his head, over mountains and
valleys, so that I had not only my own
luggage to carry at such times, but his
likewise.

June 1.

Having by morning come within the
territories of the nearest Laplander, we
left our boat on the shore of the river, and
went in search of this man through the
wild forests, where we saw no more traces
of roads or enclosures than if the country
were entirely uninhabited. We met, how-
ever, with several deserted huts, where he
had at one time or other resided.

Being exceedingly tired with this walk,
I was glad to repose myself here in the de-
sert, while my Finland conductor went in
search of my future guide. Nor was I
without considerable fears that this man,

250 APPENDIX.

when he had met with the Laplander,
might not be able to find me again. How-
ever, about noon he returned, accompa-
nied by a Laplander, who took charge of
me, inviting me home to his hut, where he
treated me with fish, and fresh water.

I was afterwards conducted from one
Laplander to another, till I came to a part
of the river, about twenty-five miles above
Lycksele. I shall not dwell on the inconve-
niences I was obliged to undergo every time
we had to seek for any of the Laplanders,
while I was quite destitute of provisions.
These poor people themselves had, at this
season, nothing but fish to eat, as they had
not yet begun to slaughter their reindeer,
nor to go a fowling ; neither had they, as
yet, milked any of their reindeer.

3unt 2.

On coming to the place just mentioned,
we found it impracticable to proceed by
water, the river being so rapid, and so
much impeded by falls, that we were

APPENDIX. 251

oblijred to undertake a walk of a few miles
further, which I was told would bring us to
a more navioable stream. After walkinjr
for some time, a fen or marsh lay before us,
seemingly half a mile broad, which we had
to cross. At every step the water wa^
above our knees, and the ice was at the
bottom. Where the frost was quite gone,
we often sunk still deeper. When we had
traversed this marsh, we soujrht in vain
for any human creature, and were therefore
under the necessity, a little further on, of
crossing another bog, still worse than the
former, and a mile in extent. I know not
what I would not rather have undertaken
than to pass this place, especially as the
elements were all adverse, for it blowed
and rained violently.

Jime 3.

By four o'clock this morning, having
conquered all our difficulties, we still could
not meet M'ith any Laplander. I was so
fatigued that I could proceed no further

352 APPENDIX.

without some repose. We therefore made
a fire ; and having dried my clothes, I lay
down by the side of it, in hopes of taking a
little rest. But in this I had no success.
The fire scorched me on one side, while the
cold north wind pinched me on the other ;
and the gnats so stung my hands, face, and
legs, that it was impossible to sleep. Thus
I remained in expectation of my Lapland
conductor, who had set out in search of
another, till two o'clock in the afternoon.
I could not help thinking how miserably
I might have to end my days here, in case
he should think proper to desert me en-
tirely. At length, however, he returned,
bringing with him a little black-looking
Moman, whose hair hung loose about her
shoulders, with a red cap upon her head.
I scarcely think that any poet could have
described a fury so hideous as this woman.
She addressed me in Swedish to the follow-
ing effect. " Oh, thou poor man ! what
misfortune can have brought thee into my
country ? Seest thou what miserable living

APPENDIX. 253

we have ? I have never yet seen any
stranger here in summer. Whence dost
thou come, and whither dost thou intend
to go ?" Having tasted nothing for four
days past but a httle fresh fish, without
any bread, I asked her, seeing a small
kettle in her hand, what she could give me
to eat. She immediately set about boil-
ing a pike which she had brought with her ;
but when I w^as going to taste it, I observed
heaps of vermin between the gills, which
made meloathe it altogether, and rather con-
tinue to fast, though my strength suffered
much. This woman informed me there was
no boat to be had on the next river, and that
I had only to return the way I came ; which
words were like a stroke of thunder to me.
I know not any thing I would less willingly
have undertaken than to traverse again
these Stygian marshes, which were now
not to be avoided. However, this good wo-
man conducted us to a side path, whereby
we avoided about half a mile of the way
we had come. In traversing the forest, wt

2o4 APPENDIX.

arrived at a shed, supported by four posts,
and covered with a roof. Here hung some
clothes, and a small rem-deer cheese,
Mhich last I immediatelj' wished to obtain.
But the woman refused, saying she sliould
want it herself ibr the next holidav. My
hunger was such, tliat I could not lose
sight of this cheese, and I was induced to
otter her any thing she was pleased to ask
for it, telling her I verily believed I should
hardly survive another day if I had it not.
At length she complied, and the cheese
proved afterwards of the most signal ser-
vice to me. We then took leave of our
female companion, and began to measure
back our steps. I was thus obliged to return
bv the course of the river, having, with
the thouo-htlessness of vouth, undertaken
more than it was possible to perform.

We continued our voyage down the
river, being carried with great velocity by
the current, the whole of the next day.
At length coming to an island, the Lap-
lander failed in his attemjjt to weather it.

APPENDIX. 255

and the boat, striking against a rock, ^vas
dashed to pieces. We both found our-
selves in tile water ; but the depth being
inconsiderable, we soon landed on the
island. Mj conductor lost not only his
boat, but a hatchet and pike. I lost two
stuffed birds, one of them a laro-e Heron
{Ardea cinerea ?) which was black with
a white breast; the other a Red-bird, or
Gvousach, as the Laplanders call it, (Cor-
I'MS, or Laniiis infaif.stus, see v. 2. 109-) It
was with great dilBculty we got from this
island to the shore. The sun shone warm ;
and after havins; wrung; the water out of
our clothes, we walked on for about a
mile, along the bank of the river, amongst
thickets and bogs, till we came in sight
of a colonist, who was fishing for pike.
He gave me some provision, and conducted
me to Grano, where I only stopped to rest
one night, and on the evening of the 8th
of June arrived at Umoea.

Jujie 12.
Early this morning I set out by land

ioÖ APPENDIX.

towards Pithoea, "where I arrived after
two days journey, for the night was as
pleasant for travelhng as the day. Here
I met with kind entertainment from Mr.
Solander, the principal clergyman of the
place.

Jime 19.
I went out to sea in a boat for somis
miles, to explore the neighbouring coast
and islands, and returned at length to the
new town. Here however I made no long
stay, but proceeded in one day from thence
to Lulea. I was anxious to lose as little
time as possible, being very desirous of
reaching the alps of Lulean Lapland time
enough to see the sun above the horizon at
midnight, which is seen to greater adr
vantage there than at Tornea.

June 2p.
Taking leave of the town, I embarked pn
the river of Lulea, which I continued to na-
vigate upwards for several successive days
and nights, having good accommodation

APPENDIX. 257

both as to food and boat. The boats here
are excellent, far unlike those in the di-
strict of Umoean Lapland, which are, in a
manner, only sewed together, so that a
foot set on one of their sides is sufficient
to stave them ; and if the passengers are
not careful how they sit down, the boat is
overset. After three days and three nights,
we reached Quickjock, situated close to the
alps. Here I received from the famous
wife of the curate Mr, Grot provisions
sufficient to last me for eight days.

July 6.

After several days' travelling, on the
evening of July 6th I ascended Wallavari,
the first mountain of the alps on this side,
which is indeed of a very considerable
height. My companion was a Laplander,
who served me both as servant and inter-
preter. In the latter capacity his assistance
was highly requisite, few persons being to
be met with on these alps who are ac-

VOL. II. s

258 APPENDIX.

quainted with the Swedish language ; nor
was I wilhng to trust myself alone among
these wild people, who were ignorant for
what purpose I came. I had already suf-
fered much in the Lapland part of Umoea
for want of knowing the language. Nor
was my companion wanted less to assist me
in carrying w hat was necessary, for I had
sufficient incumbrances of my own, without
being the bearer of our provisions into the
bargain.

On my first ascending these w'ild alps>
I felt as if in a new world. Here were no
forests to be seen, nothing but mountains
upon mountains, larger and larger as I ad-
vanced, all covered with snow. No road,
no tracks, nor any signs of inhabitants
were visible. The verdure of summer
seemed to shun this frozen region, retiring
into the deep valleys between the mountains.
I saw very few birds, except some Ptarmi-
gans, which the Laplanders call Clieruna
{Tetrao Lagopus), running with their young
along the vales. The delightful season of

APPENDIX, 259

Spring, whose cheering influence on man and
all living nature I had so lately experienced
in the beginning of my journey, seemed
an alien here. The declinino- sun never
disappeared sufficiently to allow any cool-
ing shade, and by climbing to the more
elevated parts of these lofty mountains, I
could see it at midnight above the horizon.
When I cast my eyes over the grass and%
herbage, there were few objects I had seen
before, so that all nature was alike strange
to me. I sat down to collect and describe
these vegetable rarities, while the time
passed unperceived away, and my inter-
preter was obliged to remind me that we
had still five or six miles to go to the
nearest Laplander, and that if we had a
mind for any rein-deer meat, we ought to
bestir ourselves quickly. We proceeded
therefore up and down the snowy hills,
sometimes passing along their precipitous
sides, which was the most difficult travel-
ling of all, and for many a long way we
walked over heaps of stones. About the
s 2

260 APPENDIX.

evening of the following day we reached
the nearest spot where any Laplander was
at that time settled. The man we met
with gave me a very good reception, and
furnished me with a couple of rein-deer
skins to sleep between. Immediately after
my arrival, the herd, consisting of seven
or eight hundred head of rein-deer, came
^ome. These were milked, and some of
the milk was boiled for my entertainment,
but it proved rather too rich for my sto-
mach. Mv host furnished me with his
own spoon, which he carried in his tobacco-
bag. On my expressing a wish, through
my interpreter, to have the spoon washed,
my Lapland friend immediately complied,
taking a mouthful of water, and spitting
it over the spoon.

After having satisfied my hunger, and
refreshed myself with sleep, I steered my
course directly South-west, towards the
alps of Pithoea, proceeding from thence
to the lofty icy mountains, or main ridge
of the country. A walk of scarcely above

APPENDIX. 261

four or five miles further brought me to
the western edge of this ridge, for I was
desirous of examining that side of the
mountains, to see how it agreed with the
eastern part. I had no sooner arrived at
the icy mountains than a storm overtook
me, accompanied b v a shower of thin
pieces of ice, which soon formed an icy
crust over my own clothes and those of
my conductor. The severity of the cold
obliged me to borrow the gloves and
lappmudd (coat of rein-deer skin) from the
man who accompanied me. But the wea-
ther proved more favourable as soon as we
had crossed the summit of the ridge.
From hence the verdant appearance of
Norway, lying far beneath us, was very
delightful. The whole country was per-
fectly green, and, notwithstanding its vast
extent, looked like a garden in miniature,
for the tallest trees appeared not above a
span high. As we began to descend the
alps, it seemed as if we should soon arrive
at the lower country, but our calculations

262 APPENDIX.

were very inadequate to what we found its
actual distance. At Icnojth, however, we
reached the plains of which we had en-
joyed so stupendous a prospect. Nothing
could be more delightful to my feelings
than this transition, from all the severity
of winter, to the warmth and beauty of
summer. The verdant herbage, the sweet-
scented clover, the tall grass reaching up
to m}^ arms, the grateful flavour of the
wild fruits, and the fine weather which
welcomed me to the foot of the alps,
seemed to refresh me both in mmd and
body.

Here I found myself close to the sea
coast. I took up my abode at the house
of a ship-master, with whom I made an
agreement to be taken in a boat, the fol-
lowing day, along the coast. I much
wished to approach the celebrated whirl-
pool, called the Maelstrom, but I could
find nobody willing to venture near it.

We set sail the next morning according
to appointment, but the wind proved con^

APPENDIX. 263

trary, and the boat-men were, after a while,
exhausted with rowing. Meantime I
amused myself in examining various pe-
trifactions, zoophytes, and submarine plants
of the Fucus tribe, which occupied every
part of the coast. In the evening I ar-
rived at the house of Mr. Rask, the pastor
of Torfjorden, who gave me a kind recep-
tion.

Next day we proceeded further on our
voyage ; but the contrary wind exhausted
our patience, and we veered about, soon
reaching the place ' from whence we had
first set out, the wind being directly in our
favour for that purpose.

On the following morning I climbed
one of the neighbouring mountains. Math
the intention of measuring its height.
While I was reposing in perfect tranquillity
on the side of the hill, busied only in
loosening a stone which I wanted to exa-
mine, I heard the report of a gun at a
small distance below. I was however too
far off to receive any hurt, so, thanks to

264 APPENDIX

Providence,! escaped, but my alarm may be
easily imagined. Perceiving the man who had
fired the gun, I pursued him to a consider-
able distance, in order to prevent his charg-
ing his piece a second time, and I deter-
mined never to go there again without
some protection. I inquired who it could
be that had made this unprovoked attack,
but I found it impossible to gain any in-
formation on the subject.

On the 15th of July* we set out on our
return, and that whole day was employed
in climbing the mountains again, to our
no small fatigue and exhaustion, the ground
we had to pass over being so extremely
steep as well as lofty. When w^e reached
the cold snowy mountains, indeed, w^e had
sufficient opportunity to cool ourselves.

From hence we turned our course to-
wards the alps of Tornea, which were de-

* The manuscript says July 1st, but this does not
agree with the original journal, which therefore I have
followed. See the first page of this volume.

APPENDIX. 260

scribed to me as about forty miles distant.
What I endured in the course of this jour-
ney is hardly to be described. How many
weary steps was I obhged to set to chmb
the precipices that came in my way, and
how excessive were my perspiration and
fatigue ! Nor were these the worst evils
we had to encounter before we reached
Caituma. Sometimes we were enveloped
with clouds, so that we could not see be-
fore us ; sometimes rivers impeded our
progress, and obliged us either to choose
a very circuitous path, or to wade naked
through the cold snow water. This fresh
snow water however proved a most wel-
come and salutary refreshment, for without
it we should never have been able to en-
counter the excessive heat of the weather.
Water was our only drink during this jour-
ney, but it never proved so refreshing as
when we sucked it out of the melting snow.
Having nearly reached the Lapland village
of Caituma, the inhabitants of which

266 APPENDIX.

seemed perfectly wild, running away from
their huts as soon as they perceived us ap-
proaching, from a considerable distance,
I began to be tired of advancing further
up into this inhospitable country. We
had not at this time tasted bread for seve-
ral days, the stock we had brought with
us being entirely exhausted. The rich
milk of the reindeer was too luscious to be
eaten without bread, and the ordinary or
second-rate cheese occasioned such a de-
gree of costiveness as I could no longer
endure. I determined therefore to return
towards Quickjock, which was forty miles
from this spot. In the course of my jour-
ney thither, walking rather carelessly over
the snow, without noticing a hole which the
water had made, I fell through the icy
crust into the deep snow. The interpreter
and guide were totally unable to assist me,
the cavity in which I lay being very steep,
and so hollowed out by the water that it
surrounded me like a wall. It was not in

APPENDIX. 267

their power to reach me without a rope,
which they luckily were able to procure to
drag me out of the hole. I had received
a blow on my thigh in the fall, the effects
of which I felt for a month afterwards.
One of my guides had met with a similar
accident but a week before.

At length we arrived at Quickjock, after
having been four wrecks without tasting
bread. Those who have not experienced
the want of this essential support of life,
can scarcely imagine how hard it is to be
deprived of it so long, even with a super-
fluity of all other kinds of food. I re-
mained four days at Quickjock to recruit
my strength, and afterwards descended
the river ao-ain to Lulea. There beino; no
boat to be had north of Purkijaur, we were
obliged to construct a raft for ourselves.
Our voyage was very perilous, for the wind
and current both combined to overset us,
so that it was not without the greatest exer-
tion we saved ourselves, and it being night,
nobody heard our cries for assistance.

208 APPENDIX.

The next day I was conducted to the
river of Calatz, to see the manner of fish-
ing for pearls, and on the 30th of July
arrived at Lulea.

Here I rested for a day or two, then
proceeded to Tornea, and from thence
to Kimi, and some way up the river of
that name. Afterwards I entered East
Bothland ; but not understanding the Fin-
nish language, I found it inconvenient to
proceed, and preferred returning four miles
back again. I made several excursions to
an adjacent island. At the town of Calix
I became acquainted with the judge of a
neighbouring district, and we accompanied
each other to Tornea, from whence I pro-
ceeded in a boat to Kengis, Jonesvando,
and within four miles of Juckesceni ; but
as the frost was beginning to set in very
hard, it being late in autumn, and there
being nothing, as far as I could discover,
very remarkable to see, I descended the
river again in the same boat, and had a
quick passage back. Having noted down

APPENDIX. 269

the Finnish names for such articles as I
should be most likely to want at the inns,
I ventured once more to enter East Both-
land, in order to pursue my journey that
way homeward. I considered that in a
new country there is always something new
to be seen, and that to travel the same
road I had come, would probably afford
but little entertainment or instruction. I
had still less inclination, at this advanced
season of the year, to encounter the ha-
zard of a sea voyage. Several merchants
who wanted to sail from Tornea to Stock-
holm, had long been waiting for a fair
wind.

I therefore pursued my way along the
coast through East Bothland and Finland,,
visiting Ulea, Brakestad, Old and New
Carleby, Wasa, Christina, Biorreborg and
Abo, remaining four days at the place last
mentioned. I then went by the post yacht
to Aland, crossed the sea of Aland, and
on the 10th of October reached Upsal.

The vAwIq extent of my journey amounts

270 APPE>fDIX.

to 633 Swedish miles (about 379B English
miles) as appears by my itinerary subjoined.

Miles.

From Upsal to Umoea - - _ 6\)

Umoea to Lycksele - - - 12

Lycksele to the upper part of Lapmark 25

From thence again to Umoea - 37

From Umoea to Pithoea - - 22

Pithoea to Longoen - - - 3

Back again to Pithoea - - 3

From thence to Lulea - - 5

Lulea to Quickjock - - - 53

Quickjock to the alps of Pithoea - 25

From thence to the Norway coast - 10

Excursion by sea, and back again, - 14

From Norway to Caitum - 40

From Caitum to Quickjock - 40

Quickjock to Tornea - - 47

Tornea to Kimi - - - 5

From hence to Maxaniemi - - 5

Maxaniemi to Calix - - 9

Calix to Kengis - - - 32

Kengis to Jonesvando - - 40

Jonesvando to Tornea - - 26

Tornea to Abo - - _ lOO

Abo to Upsal - - - - 40

635

APPENDIX. 271

(The account of the expenses of this
journey, and observations on the advan-
tages to be derived froip it, both pro-
mised in the beginning of this " brief nar-
rative," are not found in the manuscript.)

APPENDIX.

N« II.

The following extract, from Dr. Wahlen-
berg's " Observations made with a view to
determine the height of the Lapland Alps/*
p. 45, &c., was translated from the Swedish
by the late Mr. Dryander, who kindly
communicated it to the editor, expressing
a wish that it might accompany the present
publication. To fulfil this desire is now
become a duty. It is with a melancholy
satisfaction I here subjoin the last commu-
nication I ever received from this excellent
and learned pupil of Linnaeus, to the work
of his master. Many remarks from him
have assisted me in the course of this un-
dertaking, and if I could have submitted
the whole to his inspection before it went

APPENDIX. 273

to press, many inaccuracies, which a fo-
reigner could scarcely avoid, might have
been corrected by a native Swede, a man
too so supremely accurate, and so conver-
sant with every part of the subject. But
this the various and unremitting employ-
ments of my deceased friend rendered im-
practicable, and I could only take advan-
tage of what he had it in his power to be-
stow, in casual conversations, or in answer
to the questions I was now and then obliged
to ask him, such as he was ever ready, on
all occasions, to satisfy, because, to use his
own words, he knew they were " likely to
be of use/'

The following remarks of Dr. Wahlen-
berg display a singular acuteness of obser-
vation. They are a complete picture,
drawn by a masterly hand, not only to
the adept in Natural History, but to every
one who has the least taste for beholding
the fcice of Nature, under its most striking
and unusual aspects. The able author is,
as yet, but slightly known to English read-

VOL. II. T

274 APPENDIX.

ers, even in the more technical part of
his science. What we are now to lay be-
fore them gives a promise of his taking a
high rank amongst writers of a superior
and more generally interesting class, one
of those in short who touch upon no sub-
ject without enriching it.

Dr. Wahlenberg's remarks are divided
into eight sections, each of which describes
a separate line of elevation.

1. On approaching the Lapland Alps
(Fjäll), we first arrive at the line where
the Spruce Fir, Pimis Abies, ceases to
irrow. This tree had previously assumed
an unusual appearance ; that of a tall slen-
der pole, covered from the ground with
short, drooping, dark branches; a gloomy
object in these desolate forests ! The Ru-
bus arcticus had already, before we ar-
rived at this point, ceased to bring its fruit
to maturity. With the Spruce we lose the
Rosa cinnamomea, Convallarla bifoUa,8cc.;
and the borders of the lakes are stripped

APPENDIX. 275

of their ornaments of Arundo Vhras^mitcs^
Lyshnachia thyrsifiora, Galium boreale,
and Cai'ex globularis. Here is the true
station of Titssilago nivea (Wilid, Sp. PL
V. 3. 1970.) The last beaver-houses are
seen in the rivulets, and no Pike nor Perch
is to be found in the lakes higher up. The
boundary of the Spruce Fir is 3200 feet
below the line of perpetual snow, and the
mean temperature is about 3" of Celsius's
thermometer (37J of Fahrenheit).

2. Scotch Firs (Pinus sylvestr is) are still
found, but not near so tall as in the lower
country. Their stems here are low, and
their branches widely extended. Here are
seen the last of Ledum palustre, Salix
pentandra, Veronica .serpylUfolia, Sec. The
bogs have already a very steril appearance.
Near the utmost boundary of the Scotch Fir
grows Pliaca alpina. Higher up are hardly
any Bears to be met with, and the berries of
Vaccinium Myrtillus (the Bilberry) do not
ripen well. Salmo Lavaretus (the Gwi-
niad), and S, Thymatlus (the Grayling),
T 2

^7(y APPENDIX.

soon after disappear from the lakes. The
upper limit of this zone, when the Scotch
Firs cease, is 2800 feet below the line of
perpetual snow, and the mean temperature
about 2,'\5 of Celsius (5'öi of Fahrenheit.)
A little below this point, or about 3000
feet before we come to perpetual snow,
Barley ceases to ripen ; but small farms,
the occupiers of which live by grazing and
lishing, are met with as far as 400 feet
higher, for instance, Naimaka in Enonte-
kis, and so far also potatoes and turnips
grow large enough to be worth cultivating.
3. Beyond this the dwarf and stunted
forests consist only of Birch. Its short
thick stem, and stiff, widely spreading,
knotty branches, seem prepared to resist
the strong winds from the alps. Its lively
light green hue is delightful to the eye,
but evinces a weakness of vegetation.
These Birch forests soon become so low,
that they may be entirely commanded
from the smallest eminence. Their up-
permost boundary, where the tallest of the

I

APPENDIX. 277

trees are not equal to the height of a man,
is 2000 feet below the line of perpetual
snow. This zone is therefore much wider
than the preceding. Long before its ter-
mination Alnus mcana, Frunus Padus,
and Populus tremula, were no more to be
seen. A little before the Birch ceases, we
miss the Sorbiis Aucuparia (Pyrus Aiicu-
paria, Fl. Brit.) which for some time had
not presented us with any fruit ; the Riibtis
arcticus already likewise barren ; Erica
vulgaris, Accmitmn It/coctomim, &c. Where
the Birch forest becomes thinner, the re-
flection of the heat from the sides of the
mountains is the strongest. Here in many
spots we find the vegetation of Sojichus
alpinus, Striithioptcris, and Aconitum ly-
coctonum remarkably luxuriant. The drier
spots now become covered with Lichen
rangiferinus. Tussilago frigida and Pe-
dicularis Sceptrum-Carolinum have their
place to the utmost boundary of the Birch.
Thus far only Charx {Salmo alpinus) is

278 APPENDIX.

found in the lakes, and higher up all fish-
ing ceases.

4. All mountains above this limit are
called Fjäll (Alps). Near rivulets and on
the margins of bogs only, is found a little
brush-wood, consisting of Salix glauca,
whose grey hue affords but little ornament
to the landscape. The lower country is co-
vered with the dark-looking Beiula nana,
which still retains its upright posture. A
few Juniper bushes, and some plants of
Salix hastata, are found scattered about.
Every hill is covered with Arbutus alpina,
variegated with Andromeda carulea and
Trientalis europcea. The more boggy
ground is decorated with Andromeda po-
lifolia in its greatest beauty, and Pedicu-
laris lapponica. On the sides of the moun-
tains, where the reflected heat has the
greatest power, grow Veronica alpina,
Viola biflora, Pteris crispa, and Angelica
Archangelica. This zone extends within
1400 feet of the line of perpe-tual snow.

APPENDIX. 279

The Glutton [Mustela Gulo) goes no higher
than this. The berries of Rubiis Chaince-
morus still ripen here, but not at a greater
degree of elevation.

5. Now no more brushwood is to be
seen. The white Saliz lanata is not above
two feet high, even about the rivulets, and
Salix myi'sinites is of still more humble
growth. Betiila Jiana occupies the drier
situations, but creeps entirely upon the
ground. The hills are clothed with the
rather brown than green Azalea prociim-
hens and Azalea lapponica, which give this
zone its most peculiar feature. Verdant
spots between the precipices, where the
sun has the greatest power, produce Lych^
711S apetala, Erigeron unijiorum^ A sir aga-
his leontinus^ and montanus, with Ophrys
alpina. In boggy places Air a alpina^ Ca-
7'ex ustulata, and Vaccinium idiginosum
are observable. The only berries however
which ripen at this degree of elevation, are

* Jacq. Ic. Rar. i. 154. mild. Sp. PL v. 3. 1287-

280 APPENDIX.

those of Efnpetrwn nigrum ; but these
are twice as large as what grow in the
woodlands, and better flavoured. The
upper boundary of this zone is 800 feet
below the line of perpetual snow. The
Laplanders scarcely ever fix their tents
higher up, as the pasture for their reindeer
ceases a very little way above this point.
The mean temperature is about -j- 1'^ of
Celsius (34 of Fahrenheit).

6. Next come the snowy alps, where
are patches of snow that never melt.
The bare places between still produce a
few dark shrubby plants, such as EmpC"
trum nigrum, but destitute of berries, An^
dromeda tetragona and hypnoides, as well
as Diapensia lapponica. Green precipices
exposed to the sun are decorated with the
vivid azure tints of Gentiana tenella and
nivalis^ and Campantda unijiora, accom-
panied by the yellow Draba alpina. Colder
and marshy situations, where there is no
reflected heat, produce Fedicularis hirsuta
and flammea, with Dri/as ociopetala. This

APPENDIX. 281

zone extends to 200 feet below the limits of
perpetual and almost uninterrupted snow.

7. Beyond it perpetual snow begins to
cover the greatest part of the ground, and
we soon arrive at a point where only a few
dark spots are here and there to be seen.
This takes place on the Alps of Quickjock
at the elevation of 4100 feet above the
sea ; but nearer the highest ridge, and
particularly on the Norway side of that
ridge, at 3100 feet. Some few plants,
with succulent leaves, are thinly scattered
over the spongy brown surface of the
ground, where the reflected heat is
strongest, quite up to the line of uninter-
rupted snow. These are Saaifraga stella-
ris, rivularis and oppositifolia. Ranuncu-
lus nivalis and glacialis, Kumex digynus,
Juncus curvatus * and Silene acaulis. The
mean temperature at the boundary of per-
petual snow is + 0,% of Celsius, (32f of
Fahrenheit).

* We know not what species the author intends
by this name.

282 APPENDIX.

8. Above the line of perpetual snow,
the cold is occasionally so much dimi-
nished, that a few plants of Ranunculus
glacialis, and other similar ones, may now
and then be found, in the clefts of some
dark rock rising through the snow. This
happens even to the height of 500 feet
above that line. Further up the snow is very
rarely moistened. Yet some umbilicated
Lichens (Gijrophora), &c., still occur in
the crevices of perpendicular rocks, even
to the height of 2000 feet above the line
of perpetual snow. These are the utmost
limits of all vegetation, where the mean
temperature seems to be + 1,"1 of Celsius
(30 of Fahrenheit). The Snow Bunting,
Emberiza nivalis, is the only living being
that visits this elevated spot.

INDEX.

Abo, ii. 230.

Acer platanoides, ii. 227.

Aconite, yellow, i. 36.

Aconitum lycoctonum, i. 36, 47, 138, 278. ii, 79p

123, 277.
Adam and Eve, i. 28.
Adoxa moschatellina, i. 37.
Agaricus, i. 131, 152, 177» ii. 158.
Agrostis arundinacea, ii. 228.

ruhra, ii. 91.

Agues, i. 29, 180.
Aira alpina, ii. 279.
Aland, ii. 233.
Alca Tor da, i. 64, 65.
Ålder, hoary-leaved, i. 48, 51. ii. 277.
Alnus incana, ii. 277.
Alopecurus geniculatus, ii. 92.
Alps, Lapland, i. 283 — 322. ii. 1 — 81, 257.
■ Dr. Wahlenberg's observations to de-

termine their height, ii. 272.
Amanita, ii. 158.

284 INDEX.

Amusements of the Laplanders, ii. 50 — 58.

Anas arctica, i. 65.

Andromeda ccBrulea, i. 272. ii. 278.

hypnoidcSj i. 320. ii. 280.

polifoUa, i. 23, 188, ISQ.

tetragona, ii. 28, 29, 280.

Anemone Hepatica, i. 11, 32. ii. 228.

ranunculoides, i. 11.

vernalisj i. 15.

Angelica Archangelica, i. 171. ii. 60, 108, 278.

sylvestris, i. 171, 31 6. ii. 76.

Ångermanland, i. 48.

Animals of the alps, ii. 82, 83.

Anihericimi calyculatum, i. 257.

Apis terrestris, i. 159-

Apple-trees, i. 61.

Arabis tkaliana, i. 33.

Aranea paluslris,', .

^ ^1. 258.

tris, 1

riparia

Arbutus alpina, ii. 278.

Uva ursiy i. 7, 23, 250.

Ardea cinerea) ii. 255.

Arena Glarea,\.7, 16, 32, 82, 123, 166,

mobilis, i. 16.

Artemisia vulgaris, ii. 201,

Arum, i. 200.

Arundo Calamagrostis, ii. 90.

PhragmileSj ii. 275.

Ash, i. 68.

INDEX. 285

Aspen, 1. 77, 179.

Aspidium Filix-foemina, ii. 227.

ylsplenium Trie humanes, i. 55.

Astragalus alpinus, i. l60, 256, 366. ii. 2.

leontifius, ii. 279.

— montanus, ii. 279-

Azalea lappoiiica, i. 299. ii. 279.
procumhens, i. 285. ii. 279.

B.

Bannisteria. See D lap en sia.

Bark of the aspen-tree used as food for cattle, i. 77.

pine-tree eaten by the peasants, i. 169-

— — willow used for tanning, i- 80.

— birch used for tanning, i. 249.

Barley, i. 57, 67, 73.
Bartramia fontana, i. 181 — -184.

pomiformis, i. 13, 38.

Bartsia alpina, ii. 119.
Bears, ii. 215, 275.
Beaver, i. 88 — 91.
Beech, i. 68.
Betula alba, i. 48.

incana, i. 48. ii. 277.

nana, i. 19, 68, 126, 139, 186. ii. 26, 50,

278, 279.
Bicornes, i. 22.
Bilberry, i. 25, 35, 208.

286 INDEX.

Birch, Common, i. 20, 34, 49, 56, 60, 100, 113,
202. ii. 276.

dwarf, i. 19, 126, 139.

Bird-traps, i. 179.

Bixa Orelana, ii. 233,

Blindness, peculiar case of, i. 217.

Boat, Lapland, i. 98.

Bog-moss, i. 139, 165, I67.

Boletus igniarius, used as a pincushion, i. 83.

suaveolens, employed as a perfume, i. 151.

Bothland, East, ii. 131 — 166, 201 — 232.
Bramble, strawberry-leaved, i. 31, 38, 201,
Brandy, i. 28, 122, 137. ii. 147.
Brassica oleracea, ii. 219.
Bream, i. 27.
Bryum himum, i. 183.

pomiforme, i. 13.

Buck-bean, i. 86, 200.

Buck-wheat, i. 166.

Buntings, snow, i. 71. ii. 282.

Burnet, i. 220.

Butter, i. 110.

Byssus, i. 84, 156.

cryptarurriy i. 47, 53.

Jios aquce, i. 4.

. Jolithus, i. 26.

red, i. 26.

INDEX. 287

C.

Calla palustris, i. 200, 245, 350.
Callitriche autumnalis, i. 62.

venia, i. 62.

Calt ha palustris, i. 5, 68.
Cameraria, i. 176.
Campaniformes, i. 10.
Campanula persicifoUa, ii. 226.

■ serpyllifolia, i. 20, 37-

uniflora, ii. 280.

Con/5 Fulpes, i. 71.
Caper, Swedish, l . 5.
Carex, i. 5, 167-

ccespitosa, ii. 225.

globularis, ii. 275.

pamcea, ii. 98.

- sylvatica, i. 276. ii. 21, 46.

- ustulata, ii. 279.

Castor, i. 88, 276. ii. 215.

Cataract of Elf- Carleby, i. 12.

Cavern at Skula-berget, i. 52.

ChafF, eaten by the peasants, i. 169.

Chamcedaplme, i. 188.

Character of the Laplanders, i. 131, 363.

Charadrms Hiaticula, i. 93, 323.

Charr, i. 128. ii. 277.

Cheese of the Laplanders, i. 102, 197.

Cherries, i. 62.

288 INDEX.

Clirysomela graminis, i. 48.

lapponica, i. 77»

Chrysosplenium aliernifolium, i. 9.

Church tyranny, i. 157.

Church at Lulca, i. 239-

Cicindela S7/lvatica, i, 175.

Cicuta virosa, i. 246. ii. 136, 143.

Cinnabar, imperfect, i. 62.

Cinque-foil, purple, i. 158.

Clay, i. 31, 73.

Cloud-berry, i. 152, 203.

Club-moss, i. 20.

Cocc'metla trifasciata, i. 179.

Cock of the wood, i. 78, 93.

Colymbus arcticus, i. 27, 176. ii. 98, 151.

aurituSf i. 118.

Comarum paluslrCf i. 158.

Confervce, i. 336.

Convallaria bifoUaj i. 58. ii. 274.

Cookery, i. 248; performed by the men, i. 132.

Cor alloides, i. 8, 84.

Corallorrhiza, i. 223, 245. ii. 47.

Corals, petrified, i. 30.

Cornus suecica, i. 177, I89.

Corvus Comix, ii. 229.

glandarius, ii. 110.

infaustusy ii. 109, 255.

Cos molar is, i, 30.
Costmary, i. 220,

INDEX. 2Qg

Cotton-Rush, i. 68.

Cradles, difFerent kinds of, i. 190.

Crake-berries, i. 138, 152. ii. 26.

Cranberries, i. 208.

Cranes, i. 94.

Cross-bills, i, 70.

Cuckoo, i. 12, 23, 62.

Cuculus canoruSf i. 23, 31 9.

Culex pipiens, i. 159.

pulicaris, i. 238, 251.

■ reptans, i. 209, 251. ii. 115.

Cyprcea, ii. 191.
Cyprinus Apliya^ i. 102.

Bräma, i. 97.

Cypripedium Calceolus, ii. 112.

D.

Daphne, i. 23.

Dermestes murinm, i. 206.

Diapensia lapponka, i. 285. ii. 280.

Dillenia. See Azalea.

Diseases of the Laplanders, ii. 32 — 35.

of cattle, i. 245.

Diver, black-throated, i. 27.
Drala alpina, ii. 2S0.

ver na, i. 5.

Dress, travelling, of Linnaeus, i. 1.

of the Laplanders, i. 132, 137, 326 — 335.

ii. 10, 110, 144—150.
VOL. II. U

C90 INDEX.

Dry as oclopetala, ii. 280.

Ducks, wild, i. 93, 118.

Dyeing wool and leather, method of, i. 170.

Dyiucus vatator, i. 100.

E.

East Bothland, ii. 151 — 166. 201 — 232.

Elf-Carleby, i. 15.

Elm, common, i. 22, 68.

Elymiis arenurius, ii. 204.

Emberiza Hortiilanus, i. 71-

nivalis, i. 71. ii. 97, 282.

Empetrum nigrum, i. 138. 139, 152. ii. 26, '260.
Empis horealis, i. 87? 179.
Ebhemera, i. 73, 177-
Epilobium ajigiistijorium, ii. 87.

palustre (3, i. 283.

Eqidsetiim hyemale, i. 121.

Erica vulgaris, i. 7, 22, 25, 35, 49. ii. II9, 277-

Erigeron itnijlorum, ii. 279.

Eriophorum alphium, i. 177, 254.

poly St addon, i. 68.

vaginaturn, i. 68.

Erysimum Barbarea, i. 255, 267- (3, i. 72.

Festivals^ i. 1 14, 157.

Finch, mountain, i. 23, 29.

¥\v, common, i. 25, 49, 82, 202.

spruce, i. 49, 70, 85, 187, 202.

Fisheries, i. 128, 163.
Flax, i. 200.

1

INDEX. 291

Flesh-fly, i. 159.

Food of the Laplanders, i. 154.

Foxes, i. 71j 250.

Fowls, the Laplanders' method of drying, i. 79.

Fringilla Montif riv gilla, i. 23, 29.

Frogs, imagined to live in awoman's stomach, i. ill.

Frog- spittle, i. 214.

Fuais, I. 336. ii. 263.

Fumaria lulhosa minima, i. 37.

Furniture of the mountain Laplanders, ii. 12.

G.

Gaddewick, ferry of, mineral spring at, i. 231.

Gad-fly, i. 215.

Gadus virens, i. 341.

Gale, sweet, i. 19.

Galium horeale, ii. 275.

Gentiana nivalis, ii. 280.

tenella, ii. 280.

Geraniu7n sylvaticum, i. 283.

Gestrickland, i. 17. ii. 241.

Glires, i. 89.

Glirr, i. 102.

Gnats, i. 87, 159, 208, 238.

Goosander, i. 94 — 96.

Granite, i. 9, 30, 35.

Grayling, i. 61.

Grebe, little-eared, i. 118.

Grous, black, i. 23.

U 2

292 INDEX.

Groiis, wood, i. 179.

Grotto in the mountain of Scula, ii. 242.

Gruiidell, Baron, i. 70. ii. 245.

Gry [his do7nestlcus, i. 231.

Gulls, i. 75.

Gwiniad, small, i. 16 1.

GijrophorcBj ii. 2S2.

H.

Hair- moss, great, i. 171, 191.

Half-boots of the West Bothlanders, i. 74.

Hare, i. 89.

Harness, rein- deer, i. 104.

Harr, i. 61.

Hazle, i. 62, 68.

Heart's ease, i. 41.

Heath, i. 7, 22, 49, 5Q.

Hedera Helix , i. 21.

Helsingland, i. 25.

Hepatica, i. 1 1.

Hieracium Pilosella, i. 5.

Hippophae r hamnoides, ii. 224, 233.

Hobgoblins, supposed lo inhabit the mountains, i.22l.

Hops, 1. 36, 62.

Horns of the reindeer, i. 1-55.

Horsetail, naked, 1. 121.

Hnusehould oeconomy of the Laplanders, i. 167 —

172, 190, 197—199, 340. ii. 5—18, 23—26,

47—50.

INDEX. 293

Humble-bee, i. 159.

Humulus Liipidus, ii. 122, 228.

Hunting the bear, ii. 83 — 85.

Huts of the Laplanders, i. 124, 155.

Hyoscyamus niger, ii. 224.

Hypnum parietinum, i. 8.

I.

Implements of husbandry, i. 65.
Insects at Bumoen, i. 200.
Luleå, i. 233.

— Pithoea, i. 216.

— Umoen, i. 192 — 191-

Iris PseudacoruSj ii. 228.

Ivy, i. 21.

Itinerary of Linnaeus, ii. 270.

J.

Jarf, i. 71.

Juncellus aqiiaticus, i. 122.

Junciis campeslris, i. 5.

ctirvaius, ii. 281.

trifiduSj i. 279»

trigluviis, ii. 112.

Juniper, i. 83, 137, 156.
Jussiea. See Silhaldia.

K.
Kettle, method of boiling, i. 19S.

294 INDEX.

Kids, i. 10.
Kimi, ii. 146—151.
KorssraflT, i. 71.
Kowall, i. 111.

L.

Lady-bird, i. 179.
Lapis molaris, i. 30.

Lapland Alps, i. 283 — 322. ii. 1 — 81,257.
■ Dr. Wahlenberg's Observations to de-

termine the height of, ii. 272.
Lapland minerals, ii. 35 — 37.

Norwegian, i. 322 — 335.

Laplanders' amusements, ii. 50 — 58.

— — character, i. 132.

dress, i. 132, 133, 137, 326 — 335. ii. 1 lOj

144 — 150.

— diseases, ii, 32 — 35.

— food, i. 154.

— substitute for tobacco and snuff, i. 86.

~ household ceconomy, i. 1 67 — 172, I90,
197 — 199,340,341. ii. 5— 18, 23 —
26, 47—50.

huts, i. 125—127, 155.

— marriages, ii. 67 — 76.

— shop, i. 119, 120.

— weapons, i. 137-

Lark, i. 6.

INDEX. 295

Lams canus, i. 75, 319.
Lathyrus palusiris, ii. 226.
Ledum palustre, i. 23, 246. ii. 275.
Leontodon Taraxacum^ i. 5.
Leonurus Cardiaca, ii. 224.
Lepas Balanoides, i. 336.

Balanus, i. 336.

Lernea asellifia, i. 341.
Libellulaforcipaia, i. I90.

Fir go, i. 190.

Lichen arcticus, i. 31.

hyssoides, i. 84.

caninuSj i 31.

cocciJeruSj i. 84

ericetorum, i. 136.

islandicus, i. 24. ii 200.

julatus, ii. 171'

nivalis, \. A, 85.

omphalodes, ii. 233.

rangiferimis, i. 84, I6I, 318. ii. 18, 88, 108,

128, 199, 277.

stygius, ii. 233.

uncialis, i. 82, 84.

velleus, i . 213.

Lichens, filamentous, i. 83, I6I.
Ligusticum Levisticum, i. 73.
Lime-tree, i. 68.

Ling, i. 25, 35, 36, 82, 124, 139-
Limicea borealis, i. 21, 37, 203, 229.

296 INDEX.

Lithospermum aruense, i. 5.

Lonicera Xyiosteum, ii. 227.

Loxia airvirostra, i. 70.

Ludits Hclmonlii, i. 8.

Lulea, i.228 — 255.

Lulean Lapland, i. 256 — 283. ii. 81 — 130.

Lumme, i. 27, 176.

Lyclmis alpina, ii. IQ.

opetala, ii. 279.

■ dioica^ i. 33.

< Viscariu, ii. IQ-

Lycksele Lapland, i. 96 — 194.

parsonage, church, and school. 111. ii. e4<»c

Lycopodium alphmm,

clavatum,

1 , >i. 20.
complaftatum,

■■ Selago,

Lyccpsis arvensis, i. 253.
Lysimach'ia tliyri'ijiora, ii. 275.
Lythrum Sallcaria, ii. 164.

M.

Manners of the Laplanders, i. 131.

Maple, i. 6S.

Marriages of the Laplanders, i. 113, 131, 248. ii.

67—76.
Meal-berry, i. 250.
Medelpad, i. 35.
Medusa aurita, i. 338.

INDEX. 297

Medusa capillata, i. 336.

criic'iata, i. 338.

Melampyrum pratense,

^^ ' ' i. 110, 111.

,}

■ sylvaticum

Menyanthes trifoliata, i. 86, 200, 352.

Mergus Merganser, i. 94 — 96.

Mssomora, i. 177, 189-

Mica, i. 26, 247.

Mice, i. 89.

Michelia. See Azalea lapponica.

Milk, i. 59, 242—244, 273, 317.

preparations of, i. 196, 242. ii. 181.

Minerals, ii. 35 — 37.

Mining, i. 195, I9Ö.

Missne, i. 86.

Money-wort, i. 229.

Montia font ana , i. 176.

Mosses, their fructification, i. 181 — 186.

Motacillajlava, i. 71.

Mountain of Skula, i. 52. ii. 244.

Mures, i. 89.

M21S Lemmus, i. 102, 162, 303.

Musca car nar ia, i. 159.

Muscus lichenoides , i. 213.

■ tecforius, i. 85.

Mustela Gnlo, i. 71. ii. 50, 279.
My a aren aria, i. 237.

margaritifera, ii» 105.

Myosotis scorpioides, i. 5.
Myrica Gale, i. I9, 208.

298 INDEX.

N.
Nar dus strida, i. 236.
Narthecmm nssifragum, i. 257.
Norway, i. 335 — 366.
Norwegian Lapland, i. 322 — 335.
Nos toe, i. 263.
Nix vomica f i. 112.

O.

Oak, i. 68.

Ochre, i. 62, 63.

CEconomy of the Torneans, ii. 173 — 182.

CEstrus nasalis, ii. 45.

■ Tarandif i. 293. ii. 2, 23.

Oniscus aquaticus, i. 206.
Ophrys alpina, ii. 279.

. . cordata, ii. I09.

Orchis, palmated, i. 178.

Ore, silver, i. 246.

Orolus vermis, ii. 228.

Ortolans, i. 71.

Owls, i. 93, 204.

Owl, eagle, i. 39, 41, 210.

Oxalis Acetosella, i. 11, 58, 68.

P.

Faris quadrifolia, i. 138.

Pedicularis, i. 252, 266, 366. ii. 277.

flammea, i. 296. ii. 280.

— — hirsuta, ii. 280.

INDEX. 299

Pedicular IS lapponica, ii. 278.

Percajiuvialilis, ii. 86.

Persecution, a singular instance of, i. 364.

Pes pelicani, i. 336.

Petromyzonfluvialilis, ii. 196.

Phaca alpina, ii. 275.

Phoca vihilina, ii. 234.

Phrygania bicaudata, i. 74.

Pica lappomim, i. 175.

Pikes, i. 115, 128, 162.

Pines, i. 81, 124, 131, 140.

Pinguicula, i. 197, 208, 254. ii. 109.

villosa, i. 255.

Pinus Mnes,i. 25, 49, 70, 187. ii. 274, 275.
■ nodosa, i. 214.

plicata, i. 7-

sylvestris, i. 25, 49. ii. 60, Q6, 157, 275, 276.

Pipsten, i. 30.

Pisum maritimum, ii. 203.
Pithoea, i. 194 — 228. ii. 256.
Plants at Calix, ii. 193, 195, 196.

Flaskesele, i. 116, I17.

Gräno, i. 174.

Jö, ii. 202.

Jockmock, i. 265, 266.

Kimi, ii. 147, 151 — 153.

Kiomitis, i. 269 — 272.

Koskesvari, i. 258 — 260.

■ Limingo, ii. 212, 213.

Luleå, i. 230, 234, 247. ii. 122, 125.

800 IKDEX.

Plants at Sastmola, ii. 227.

Skargården, i. 220, 221.

■ Torfiolme, i. 345.

Tornea, ii. 123, 131, 136—144, 169, 172r.

Umoea, i. ISl — 186.

Upland, i. 323.

Wallavari, i. 283—291, 293-— 303.

Wasa, ii. 223.

Zangis, ii. 128—130.

Plants and birds near Lycksele, i. 98 — 100.
Plants and fishes near Pilhoea, i. 222 — 228.
Plovers, ringed, i. 93.
Polygonum Fagopyniniy i. 166.

viviparum, i. 282.

Foly podium, i. 55.

Polytrichum, i. 83, I9I. ii. 225.

commune, i. 124, 171.

Populus tremula, i. 77. ii. 277.
Potamogeton gramineum, ii. 112.

■ perfoliatum, ii. 92.

Potatoes, i. 62.

Poterium Sangui sorla, i. 220.

Primula^ i. 5, 277-

Prunus Padus, ii. 277.

Ptarmigan, i. 33, 150.

P ter is criipa, ii. 278.

Pyrolce, i. 17.

Pyrus Aucuparia, ii. 27 7^

Quicksand, i. 63.

INDEX. 301

R.

Ranunculus acris, i. 203.

aquafilis, ii. Ql.

glacialis, ii. 981, 282.

lapponiais, i. 156, 232.

• nivalis y ii, 281.

Redwing, i. 6, 23, 121.

Reinde<^r, i. 68, 79, 103—110, 113, 127, 135, l6l,
280, 307—314. ii. 22, 37 — 46, 107, 110.

method of castrating, ii. 3.

Riles alpinum, ii. 227.

nilrmn^ i. 257.

Rosa cinnamomea, ii. 274.

Rocking children, various modes of, i. IQO.

Rulus arcticus, i. 33, 52, 58, 186, 201. ii. 118, 2/4.

Chamccmorus, i. 152, 203, 281. ii. 109, 279.

Jhiticosus, u. 118.

■ idcBus, ii. 118.

saxafilis, ii. 118, 228.

Ruflfs and Reeves, i. 71.

Rumex Acetosa, i. 102, 153, 315, 366.

digynus, i. 253, 256, 366. ii. 281.

Rye, i. 5Q, 57, 67.

S.

Salix caprea, i. 5.

glnuca,yi. 278.

hastata, ii. 278.

Helix, i. 17.

lanata, i. 77- ii. 279-

Lapponum, ii. 26.

302 INDEX.

Salix myrsiniies, ii. 279.

. pentandra, ii. 275.

phylicifolia, i. 242.

rosmarinifolia, ii. 183.

Sallow-tree, i. 55.

Salmo Mbula, i. I6l. ii. 86, 89, 216.

. alpinus, i. 127, 305 — 307- ii. 277.

— — — Lavaretus, i. 160. ii. 3 7, 97, 167, 2/5.

Salar, ii. 116, 189-

Thymallus, i. 6l. ii. 275.

Salmon fishery, i. 13, 206, 344. ii. 117-
Sandpipers, i. 93.

Satyrium viride, i. 178.
Saxifraga, i. 10. ii. 280.

Saxumfornacum, i. 30.

Scar ulceus, i. 206.

Sceptrum CaroUnum, i. 252, 266, 278. ii. 119, 277.

Sc/ieuc/izeria palustris, i. 257.

Schcenus Mariscus, i. 150.

Schpus ccespitos7is, i. 122, 150.

. maritimus, ii. 228.

Sciurus volans, ii. 231.

vulgaris, ii. 49.

Scolopax Gallinago, i. I9.

Seals, remarks on, ii. 234.

Sedlim Telephium, ii. 226.

Serralula alpina, i. 259.

Sliop, Laplander's, i. 11 9.

Sihhaldia proctimhens, i. 284.

Silene acaulis, ii. 281.

INDEX. 303

Sisymbrium Nasturtium, ii. 226.

Skellefteå, i. 203.

Skula, mountain, ii. 242.

Sledge, i. 104.

Solatium Dulcamara^ ii. 224.

SoLidago Virgaurea, ii. 87.

Sonclius aipinus, ii. 60, 77 — 79> 277.

Sorbus, ii. 277.

Spergula arvensis, i. 353.

Sphagnum, i. 3 7, 139, 15ö, 165.

• palustre, ii. 109.

Sphinx Filipendulce , i. 321.

Spiders, i. 23.

Springs, mineral, i. 63, 69, 241, 281. ii. 231.

Squirrels, i. 89, 1 76.

Stellaria minima, i. 238.

nemorum, i. 279.

Slrix Bubo, i. 39, 210 — 213.

Ulula, i. 205,

Strut hiopteris, ii. 277-

Superstition of the Laplanders, i. 364.

Summer, beauty of, in Lapland, i. 244.

Swallows, i. 71.

Swammerdamia, i. 237-

Swans, i. 94.

Talc, 1. 42.

Talcum Ollaris, i. 356.

Tanacetum Balsaviita, i. 220.

804 INDEX.

Tanaceium vulgäre, ii. 201.
Tanning, i. 80, 249. ii. 120, 121.
Taxiis baccata, i. 1 1.

Tents oF the mountain Laplanders, ii. 7.

Tetrao Lagopus, i. 35, 150, 291, 318. ii. 2i8.

Tetrix, i. 23.

Urogallus, i. 78, 177, 179- ii. 96.

Thalictrum alpimim, i. 277-

< Jlavum, i. 138.

Tklaspi arvense, i. 3.

Tilia europcsa, ii. 225.

Tipulajiiniperi, i. 21.

rivosa, i. 186.

Toad, story of one, said to be hatched in a man's
stomach, i. 1 12.

Tobacco, i. 62, 86.

Tofieldla palustris, i. 257, 265, 366.
Tordmule, i. 61.

Torment ilia offici/ialiSf i. 155.
Tornea, ii. 130—146, 166—201.
oeconomical remarks concerning the neigh-
bourhood of, ii. 173 — 182.
Traps for catching the wood grous, i. 180.

sah"non, i. 206.

Trefoil, water, i, 86.
Tremellajumperina, i. 175.
Trientalis, i. 282. ii. 278.
Tringa hypoleucos, i. 117.

pugnaXf i. 7 1.

TringtBy i. 93.

INDEX. 305

Tur dus Uiaciis, i. 6, 23, 121, 176.
Tussilagofrigida, ii. 277.
. 7iivea, ii. 275.

V.

Vaccinmm Myrtillus, 1. 23, 23, 35, 49, 124, 208.
ii. 275.

Oxycoccos, 1. 208.

uliginosum, ii. 279.

Viiis Idcea, i. 23, 124, 137, 258.

Veronica alpina, ii. 278.
serpylUfolia, ii. 275.

Viburnum Opulus, ii. 22 7.

Vicia sylvatica, ii. 22S.

Viola biflora, i. 138, 279. ii- 278.

canina, i. 42.

laclea, i. 42.

luiea, 1. 41.

odorata, i. 5.

palustris, i. 20, 45.

tricolor, i. 5, 41.

Violet, aquatic, i. 42.

. marsh, i. 20, 45.

yellow, i. 138.

Viverra Lutreola, ii. 231.

U.

Ulv<jey i. 330.
Umoea, i. 69, 178.
Upland, i. 2.
Upsal, i. 3. ii. 234.

VOL. n. ^

306 INDEX.

W.

Wagtail, water, i. 62.

Wahlenberg, Dr., his Observations made to determine

the height of the Lapland Alps, ii. 272.
Wallavari mountain, ii. 257.
Wasp, i. 139.
Weapons, i. 137.
Well, mineral, i. 241.
West Bothland, i. 67.
Whortle-berries, i. 7, 56, 85, 124, 137.
Willows, i. 61, 6S, 80, 138, 249.
Winter-green, i. 17.
Wood-sorrel, i. 11, 58, 68.

X.

Xypluas Gladms, i. 335.

Y.

Yellow-hammer, i. 71.
Yew, i. 11.

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